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IN AND OUT

OF THE

OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

BOOKS BY GEORGE WHARTON JAMES.

IN AND AROUND THE GRAND CANYON OF THE
COLORADO RIVER IN ARIZONA.

THE INDIANS OF THE PAINTED DESERT RE-
GION.

INDIAN BASKETRY. Third Edition. With illustra-
tions S2.50 net.

PRACTICAL BASKET-MAKING. 116 pages, in burlap,
illustrated. $1.00 net.

TRAVELERS' HANDBOOK TO SOUTHERN CALI-
FORNIA. Cloth, 500 pages, illustrated. $1.00 net.

In Preparation:

THE BEALITIES AND ROMANCES OF THE COL-
OilAuO DESERT.

IN" AND OUT OF THE OLD MISSIONS OF NEW
MKXICO, ARIZONA, TEXAS, AND LOWER CAL-
IFORNIA.

THE
USD - ARy;

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IN AND OUT

THE OLD MISSIONS
OF CALIFORNIA

AN HISTORICAL AND PICTORIAL
ACCOUNT OF

THE FRANCISCAN MISSIONS

GEORGE WHARTON JAMES

AUTHOH OF
"IN AND AROUND THE (.HAM) CANYON," "INDIANS
OF THE PAINTED DESERT REGION
" INDIAN BASKETRY," ETC.

WITH /;.' ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PIIOTO<UlAI'll.<

. , >

BOSTON
LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY

THE UNIVERSITY PRESS, CAMBRIDGE, U.S.A.

Cheeked

TO SCRAGGLES,
MY PET SPARROW AND COMPANION

&AINT FRANCIS, the founder of the Franciscan order, without
whom there would probably have been no missions in California,
regarded the birds as his " little brothers and sisters." Just as I
began the actual writing of this book I picked up in the streets a tiny
song sparrow, wounded, unable to fly , and that undoubtedly had been
thrust out of its nest. In a short time we became close friends and
inseparable companions. Hour after hour she sat on my foot, or,
belter still, perched, with head under her wing, on my left hand, while
I wrote with the other. Nothing I did, suck as the movement of books,
turning of leaves, etc., made her afraid. When I left the room she
hopped and flittered along after me. She died just as the book was
receiving its finishing pages. On account of her ragged and unkempt
appearance I called her Scraggles ; and to her, a tiny morsel of
animation, but who had a keen appreciation and reciprocation of a
large affection, I dedicate this book.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Chapter

I. The Founding of the California Missions ,

II. JUNIPERO SERRA AND HIS COADJUTORS

III. The Indians at the Coming of the Padres

IV. The Indians under the Padres ....
V. The Secularization of the Missions .

Page

44
53

72
84

THE CALIFORNIA MISSIONS

VI. San Diego de Alcala 101

VII. San Carlos Borromeo 117

VIII. San Antonio de Padua 133

IX. San Gabriel, Arcangei 139

X. San Luis, Obispo de Tolosa 150

XI. San Francisco de Asis 156

XII. San Juan Capistrano 165

XIII. Santa Clara de Asis 172

XIV. San Buenaventura 180

XV. Santa Barbara 188

XVI. La Purisima Concepcion 202

XVII. Santa Cruz 210

XVIII. La Soledad 216

XIX. San Jose de Guadalupe 222

XX. San Juan, Bautista 231

XXI. San Miguel, Arcangel 239

XXII. San Fernando, Rey de Espagna 245

\ 111
Chapter
XXIII.

XXIV.

XXV.

XXVI.

XXVII.

XXVIII.
XXIX.

XXX.
XXXI.

XXXII.

XXXIII.

XXXIV.

XXXV.

XXXVI.

XXXVII.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Page

San Luis, Rey de Francia 252

Santa Ines 26l

San Rafael, Arcangel . 267-

San Francisco Solano 272

The Mission Chapels or Asistencias . . . 276

1. Los Angeles 276

2. San Miguel 280

3. San Miguelito 280

4. Santa Isabel (San Diego) 280

5. Mesa Grande 281

6. San Bernardino 282

7. Santa Margarita (San Luis Obispo) . . 287

8. Santa Isabel (San Miguel) .... 289

9. San Antonio de Pala 289

The Present Condition of the Mission Indians 292
Distinctive Features of Mission Architec-
ture 310

Interior Decorations of the Missions . . 330
The Furniture and Other Wood-work of the

Missions 342

The Silver and Brass Ware of the Missions 351

A Chapter of Saints 357

The Pious Fund of California 370

The Camino Real 379

The Preservation of the Missions .... 383

How to Reach the Missions 389

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Plate Page

I. San Carlos Mission and Bay of Monterey . Frontispiece

II. Santa Ines Mission 2

III. a. San Diego Mission 13

b. San Carlos Mission 13

IV. Figure of Christ, Mission San Jose Orphanage . . 16
V. a. San Gahriel Mission 23

b. San Luis Obispo Mission before Restoration . . 23

VI. a. Sacristy Side of Doorway, San Juan Bautista . . 25

b. Curved Arch over Chapel Doorway, San Luis Rey 25

VII. a. Fachada of San Francisco Mission 30

b. Fachada of San Buenaventura Mission .... 30

VIII. a. Tiled Pyramidal Roof to Bell Tower, Monterey . 34

b. Mission Bell at Santa Barbara 34

IX. Altar in Mortuary Chapel, San Luis Rey . ... 39

X. a. Santa Barbara Mission 42

b. Santa Clara Mission in 1849 42

XI. Title-page of Marriage Register of San Luis Obispo,

in President Serra's Handwriting 48

XII. a. Figure of Christ's Agony in the Garden ... 52

b. Figure of Christ, San Diego Mission 52

XIII. a. Aged Indian Neophyte, San Luis Rey Mission . 63
b. Indian Washing in Creek above Pala 63

XIV. Aged Indians at San Juan Capistrano

a. Aguida 66

b. Martinia 66

XV. Square Bricked Doorway, San Juan Capistrano . . 74

XVI. Stone Arched Doorway, Santa Margarita Chapel . . 76

x LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Plate Page

XVII. a. Street at Palatingwa (Hot Springs), Warner's

Ranch 79

b. Basket-makers at Work at Palatingwa . . . 79

XVIII. a. Main Entrance Arch at San Diego Mission . 86

b. Distributing Arch of Adobe at San Antonio . 86
XIX. a. Doorway leading to Sacristy, San Carlos Car-

melo 93

b. Doorway at Presidio Church, Monterey . . 93
XX. a. Figure of Our Lady as Queen of Heaven,

Santa Barbara 103

b. Figure of the Holy Virgin Mother .... 103

c. Figure of Santa Lucia 103

d. Figure of Santa Ines 103

XXI. a. Figure of St. John the Evangelist, Santa

Clara 108

b. Figure of St. Stephen, Santa Clara . . . . 108

c. Processional Cross (Front), Santa Ines . . . 108

d. Processional Cross (Reverse), Santa Ines . . 108
XXII. Ruined Corridors at San Antonio de Padua . . 125

XXIII. Title-page of Register of San Luis Obispo, in

the Handwriting of Padre Palou . . . 135

XXIV. Six Arches at San Juan Capistrano 151

XXV. a. Arched Cloisters at San Juan Capistrano . . 166

b. Presidio Church, Monterey 166

XXVI. a. Entrance to San Juan Capistrano Chapel . . 172
b. Elliptical Arches of Differing Axes at San

Juan Capistrano 172

XXVII. Painting of the Miracle of the Loaves and

Fishes, Santa Clara 179

XXVIII. a. Interior of San Buenaventura Mission . . . 183

b. Interior of San Antonio de Padua Mission . 183

XXIX. Interior of Santa Barbara Mission 191

XXX. a. Bells of San Juan Capistrano Mission . . . 203

b. Ruins of La Purisima Mission 203

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xi

Plate Page

XXXI. a. Santa Cruz Mission 211

b. Santa Barbara Mission and Fountain . . 211

XXXII. a. Ruins of La Soledad Mission 217

b. Ruins of La Soledad Mission 217

XXXIII. Procession of Sisters and Orphans at Mission

San Jose 228

XXXIV. a. Fachada of San Juan Bautista Mission . . 232
b. Ruins of San Juan Capistrano Mission . . 232

XXXV. Interior of San Miguel Mission from the Choir

Gallery 241

XXXVI. a. San Miguel Mission and Corridors . . . 247
b. Restored Monastery and Mission Church of

San Fernando 247

XXXVII. a. San Luis Rey Mission 253

b. San Francisco Solano Mission at Sonoma . 253

XXXVIII. a. San Antonio de Padua Mission 259

b. Graveyard and Rear of Santa Ines Mission 259

XXXIX. Padre Peyri, the Founder of San Luis Rey . 262

XL. Garden Entrance at San Luis Rey .... 269
XLI. a. Brush Church, Bells, and Cross at Santa

Isabel 277

b. Campanile and Chapel, San Antonio de

Pala 277

XLII. Main Doorway at Santa Margarita Chapel . . 289

XLIII. a. Figure of San Jose 302

b. Figure of San Antonio de Padua, Santa

Barbara 302

c. Figure of San Antonio de Padua, San

Carlos 302

d. Figure of San Juan Capistrano .... 302
XLIV. a. Figure of Christ Disputing in the Temple . 307

b. Figure of the Archangel Gabriel .... 307

c. Figure of the Archangel Michael . . . 307

d. Figure of the Archangel Raphael . . . 307

Xll

Plate
XLV.

XLVI.

XLVII.

XLVIII.

XLIX.
L.

LI.

LII.

LIII.

LIV.

LV.
LVI.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Page

a. Door into Cemetery, Santa Barbara . . . . 311

b. Side Entrance at San Buenaventura . . . 311

a. Doorway at San Antonio de Padua . . . . 317

b. Auxiliary Arch at San Juan Capistrano . . 317

a. Wooden Statue at San Miguel Mission . . 329

b. Corbels and Rafters of San Miguel Mission . 329

a. Old Pulpit at San Miguel Mission .... 331

b. Junction of Choir and Church Zones of Dec-

oration, San Miguel Mission 331

a. Old Confessional at San Miguel 335

b. Doorway leading into Sacristy at Santa Ines . 335

a. Wall Decoration in the Sacristy, Santa

Ines 337

b. Wall Decoration, San Juan Capistrano . . . 337

a. Reredos and Side Altar, San Luis Rey . . . 341

b. Mural Decorations at Pala Chapel .... 341

a. Mission Bench at Los Angeles Chapel . . . 343

b. Confessional at San Juan Capistrano . . . 343

a. Chair in Relic Room, Santa Clara .... 345

b. Chair at San Juan Bautista 345

c. Chair in Relic Room, Santa Barbara . . . 345

d. Chair at San Buenaventura 345

a. Receptacle for Ecclesiastical Vessels, San Juan

Bautista 347

b. Brackets, Shelf, and Cupboard, Santa Bar-

bara 347

c. Confessional, San Buenaventura 347

d. Pulpit, San Luis Rey 347

a. Pulpit, San Juan Bautista 349

b. Confessional, Santa Ines 349

a. Entrance Doors, San Miguel 352

b. Entrance Doors, San Luis Obispo .... 352

c. Paschal Candlestick, Santa Barbara .... 352

d. Music Desk, San Juan Bautista 352

Plate

LVII.

LVIII.

LIX.

LX.

LXI.

LXII.

LXIII.

LXIV.

c.
d.

a.
b.
c.
d.
a.
b.

a.
b.
c.
a.
b.
c.
d.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xiii

Page

Wooden Candlesticks and Crucifix, Santa Ines 353

Wooden Processional Cross, Santa Barbara . 353

Missal Stand for Altar Use, Santa Clara . . 353

Font for Holy Water, San Miguel .... 353

Movable Wooden Belfry, Santa Barbara . . 355

Matraca, or Clapper, Santa Barbara .... 355
Carved Top of Baptismal Font, San Juan

Capistrano 355

Wooden Chandelier, Santa Barbara .... 355
Processional Cross (Front), Presidio Church,

Monterey 357

Processional Cross (Reverse), Presidio Church,

Monterey 357

Processional Cross (Front), San Buenaventura 357
Processional Cross (Reverse), San Buenaven-
tura 357

Processional Candlestick, Monterey .... 359

Altar Candlestick, Monterey 359

Altar Candlestick, San Juan Capistrano . . 359

Altar Candlestick, Monterey 359

Altar Vessels, San Luis Obispo 36 1

Silver Vessels for Baptismal Elements, San

Luis Obispo 36l

Altar Candlestick, San Luis Obispo . . . 363

Altar Candlestick, San Luis Obispo .... 363

Altar Candlestick, San Juan Capistrano . . 363

Asperger of Moorish Design 371

Asperger at Monterey 371

Asperger at San Juan Bautista 371

Baptismal Font of Hammered Copper at San

Luis Obispo 371

Figure of San Buenaventura, Mission San Jose 375
Our Lady of Sorrows, Presidio Church, Mon-
terey 375

Figure of San Luis Obispo 375

xiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Plate Page

LXV. a. Rear of San Gabriel Mission 381

b. Corridors at San Fernando 381

LXVI. a. Side of San Luis Rey Mission 387

b. In the Garden of Los Angeles Chapel . . . 387

FOREWORD

THE following pages are not offered as an original
contribution to the subject of the Franciscan
Missions in California. I am not a Spanish
scholar, hence I have consulted no " original Spanish
records," nor have I " brought to light important matters
hitherto unknown." I am but one of the great mass of
laymen who love the Old Missions for their own sake, for
their history, for the noble deeds they have enshrined, for
the good their builders did — and more than what they
actually did, what they sought to do — for the Indians,
whom the later comers, my own race, have treated so abom-
inably. For nearly twenty-five years I have venerated
them ; I have made pilgrimages to them ; and several times
sent both artists and photographers to bring me their im-
pressions of them. My own camera, with me, has peered
into every kind of nook and cranny, and thousands of
photographs and many mental impressions are the result.
So now I put some of these on paper for others to share
with me.

Experts have studied the history and digested it, and in
my own readings I have browsed and culled wherever I
could find anything that I thought would help make this
story more complete and interesting. The fields from
which I have reaped are many, and if, for any reason, save
in the case of Bancroft, I have quoted and failed to give
credit, I tender my apologies in advance, make confession,
and ask for the absolution that I am sure, were I dealing
with one of the old padres, would generously be given.

There are a few chapters upon which I have bestowed
especial care, and in the presentation of which I have had

xvi FOREWORD

nothing to guide me. These are the original portions of
the book. The features that I believe have not been pre-
sented before, or at least so fully, are as follows: 1. An
analysis of the Details of the Mission Style of Architec-
ture. 2. The Condition of the Indians prior to, during,
and immediately after the Mission Epoch, with a Brief Ac-
count of their Present State. 3. A Careful Survey of the
Mural Decorations of the Missions. 4. A Pictorial Ac-
count of the Furniture, Pulpits, Doors, and Other Wood-
work of the Missions. 5. A Pictorial Account of the
Crosses, Candlesticks, and Other Silver and Brass Ware
of the Missions. 6. A Pictorial Account of the Various
Figures of the Saints at the Missions.

If any one objects that many of these details are trivial
and unnecessary, I can only say that I regret that time
and opportunity were not afforded me to make them more
complete. Every year is bringing these Mission memorials
nearer to their end, and it is important that even all the
fragments, however trivial and unsatisfactory, be not lost.

While making acknowledgments of my general indebted-
ness to Bancroft, Shea, Salpointe, Zephyrin, Lummis,
Palou, Clinch, I desire to note my especial gratitude to
Bancroft and Zephyrin. The former, in spite of all the
opprobrium and censure that have been visited upon him,
is still the well of knowledge from which even his traducers
draw most of their stock in trade. His wonderful work
has never been surpassed in any history of any people yet
written, and, in spite of his errors and failures, common
decency at least should lead those whose hands are seldom
away from his books to an honest acknowledgment of
what they owe to him. For myself, I confess that most of
the historic part of these pages is taken almost bodily from
Bancroft. I have not even sought to disguise from my
readers, by paraphrasing the matter, the source of its
origin. All that I have done is to select and arrange it,
and bring it together for convenient use.

FOREWORD xvli

To Father Zephyrin, the zealous historian of the Arizona
and California Franciscans, my thanks are due for infor-
mation cheerfully given.

I am also grateful to Messrs. C. C. Pierce & Co., of
Los Angeles, Cal., whose artistic and copyrighted photo-
graphs they have freely allowed me to use ; to Gustav
Stickley, editor and proprietor of The Craftsman, for
permission to use from the pages of that magazine
certain articles and illustrations which he aided me to
procure; to Mrs. A. S. C. Forbes for needed informa-
tion ; to Mr. Samuel Howe, of New York, for critical
estimates of the silverware of the Missions, and to Father
O'Sullivan, of Santa Clara, for many kind helps and
suggestions.

I am also indebted for many courtesies to Hi? Grace,
Archbishop Montgomery, Bishop Conaty, and all the
clergy (with but two exceptions) who now officiate at the
respective Missions, and to these I tender my sincere and
cordial thanks.

It will be well for the reader to gain a clear idea of the
meaning of certain Spanish words, which Americans use
with too great laxity of meaning, before reading further.
In establishing their settlements the civil, religious, and
military forces of the Spanish government were involved.
A civic settlement was called the pueblo.

" This term, in its most extended meaning, may embrace towns
of every description, from a hamlet to a city ; and consequently
might apply equally well to the missions, with their adjacent
Indian villages (called by the Spaniards, ra7icherias), to the
small villages springing up around the presidios, or to the
regularly settled colony. However, in its special significance,
a pueblo means a corporate town, with certain rights of juris-
diction and administration. . . . When complete it had a town
council (ayuntamiento), composed of councilmen (regidores),
Judges (alcaldes), and a mayor." 1

1 Blackmar's Spanish Institutions of the Southwest

xviii FOREWORD

The mission was the religious establishment, under the
control of the laws, but especially directed by the Padre
Presidente (father president), who at the beginning was
Junipero Serra. The ultimate expectation of the king in
establishing the Missions was that, as soon as the Indians
were Christianized, civilized, and self-supporting, they (the
Missions) were to be converted into civil pueblos, the Mis-
sion churches become parish churches, and the missionary
give way to the regular parish priest.

The presidio was the fortress, the military establishment,
which guarded the pueblo and the mission. As settlers
made their homes around it, it gradually grew into the
military town.

The asistencia, or chapel, was a branch station of one of
the Missions, generally located where there was a large
rancheria (or several of them) too far away from the
regular Missions. These chapels afforded places for the
services of the church, and were often most valuable ad-
juncts to the Mission proper. In effect they were the same
as the outside stations of the later circuit rider of early
Methodist days. The asistencia was sometimes called a
visita, which one authority thus describes:

" A visita was a clerical outpost visited or to be visited by a
padre residing elsewhere, having no resident minister of its own.
There were usually several such in the vicinity of the principal
missions where resided the padre, and all were under his admin-
istration • all also were considered as one ' mission ' — the main
one with its pueblos de visita."

Padre is Spanish for " father," and is the term com-
monly used by the people of that language, of the Catholic
Church, to designate their " father confessors." The word
has come to have a wider meaning to Americans, inas-
much as all Catholic priests of Spanish- American days are
indiscriminately termed padres. In order, however, that
there might be no possibility of misunderstanding, I wrote

FOREWORD xix

to Father Zephyrin asking him to explain their use of the
word padre and its abbreviation, P., also why the Spanish
writers invariably designate the Franciscan priests as Fr.
this or that. Here is his lucid reply in full:

" In reply to your question as to why we use Fr. before our
names, I have to say, the Fr. stands for Fray, which is Spanish
for the Italian Fra and the Latin Frater, and indicates that the
person so designated or designating himself belongs to a Reli-
gious Brotherhood, notably some one of the Mendicant Orders,
as the Dominicans, Franciscans, and Capuchins, also Augustin-
ians, which latter Martin Luther had entered. The term is
not applicable to all Religious Orders ; for instance, the Jesuit
Fathers are never so designated. All the members of the Men-
dicant Orders are Frailes (plural form of Fray), or Brothers ;
therefore each one uses Fr. in writing his name.

" Some of the members, however, are priests, and some are not,
nor do they aspire to the priesthood. These latter are termed
laicos, or lay-brothers, to distinguish them from the priests, who
in addition place P., Padre, = Father, before the Fr. or Fray, in
order to indicate their standing in the Brotherhood ; but they
both follow the same Rule. A priest, however, only uses Fr.,
like the others, unless a distinction is called for, or when he is
addressed by another person, or when spoken of by a third
person. Thus in all the California records the 144 or 146 mis-
sionaries that labored in the twenty-one Missions always sign
themselves Fr. or Fray this or that ; whereas when they write of
another they as a rule use the letters P. Fr. Hence it is im-
possible for any one not conversant with the standing of the
missionaries to say that any particular one was either a priest
or a simple Brother, because all have the Fr. Only those thus
designated have been either Franciscans or Dominicans. It is
so even now. However, for your information I will add that in
the whole California history down to 1854 not one lay-brother
appears. Every one was a priest, and consequently made the
usual studies of a priest more or less thoroughly, just as is done
now. Some were brilliant, some less so, just as is the case now
with students of every branch of learning and of every calling ;
but all were animated, more or less zealously so, with the same
motive : the Christianization and the civilization of the natives."

xx FOREWORD

During the early years and, indeed, throughout the
whole of the last century, especially after American occu-
pation, there was much confusion in the use of the name
California. During the time of the founding of the Mis-
sions on the Peninsula, California meant that region alone,
practically speaking. Then, when Serra began his work
in Alta California, the two were distinguished by the pre-
fixes Baja (Lower) or Antiqua (Old), and Alta (Higher)
or Nueva (New). But now to all United States Americans
California means alone the State of that name. And so
it will be used throughout this book. When Lower Cali-
fornia, the peninsula belonging to Mexico, is meant, it will
be distinguished, so that there can be no misapprehension.
The term California will apply solely to the Golden State
of the United States of North America.

In describing the Mission buildings I have used the
Spanish fachada instead of the French facade. The
former is as good American as the latter, and I see no
reason for not using the word regularly. It is pronounced
fah-tchah-dah.

I had originally intended to give in this volume the
history of the Missions in New Mexico, Arizona (once an
integral part of N. M.), Texas, and Lower California;
but as this book grew it was found impossible without con-
densing to such an extent as to cripple the whole narrative.
So, with the kind acquiescence of my obliging publishers, I
have written nearly all I wished to say in these pages, and
shortly they will publish a companion volume which will
fully treat, with beautiful illustrations, of the missions of
those equally historic and fascinating regions.

GEORGE WHARTON JAMES

August, 1905.

IN AND OUT OF THE
OLD MISSIONS

CHAPTER I

THE FOUNDING OF THE CALIFORNIA MISSIONS

PERHAPS nowhere in the history of the world is
there to be found a clearer example of the nothing-
ness of Time and Place when man is absent than is
presented in the history of California. It was the same
California that it is now long centuries before Cabrillo first
discovered it. It was still the same in the ages that it
remained practically undisturbed after Cabrillo, until the
time of Serra. And that was little over a century and a
quarter ago. But see the change in that hundred and
thirty years ! The seed of man's enterprise once sown, how
its fruits sprang forth!

Not the wildest conceptions of the Mission founders
could have foreseen the results of their California enter-
prises. To see the land that they found in the possession
of thousands of rude savages converted in one short cen-
tury into the home of tens of thousands of happy, con-
tented, progressive people would have been a wild vision
indeed. God surely does work mysteriously, marvellously,
His wonders to perform, and nothing is more wonderful
than the rapid settlement of California with the choicest
elements of America's Eastern civilization.

It seems almost as if the coming of Serra and his coad-
jutors— the best the Spaniards had to offer of earnest-
ness, power, ability, and sympathetic brotherhood — was

2 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

prophetic of what the future had in store for California.
America was to give of its best, — East, North, South, in
its Starr King, Joseph and John LeConte, Fremont, and
a host of others for its physical, mental, and spiritual
development.

The East has not yet taken the full measure of the West,
— not even as well as did Serra, Crespi, Palou, and
Lasuen. The spirit of those men is still in the air, and the
results are beyond the ken of all except the few whose
vision is prophetic. The Pacific Coast States are yet in
their swaddling-clothes. The world has yet to be astounded
at their youth and matured manhood.

Many and diverse are the elements which have gone into
the making of that " State of the Golden Gate " of which
Americans generally are so proud. It has been the stage
upon which strangely different actors have played their
part — important or insignificant — and left their im-
press where they played. It has been a composite canvas
upon which painters of every school have practised their
art: a vivid mass of color here, a touch there, a single
stroke of the brush yonder. Then, too, look at it as you
will, stage or canvas, it had a marvellous natural setting.
Curtains, side-wings, drops, scenes, accessories, suitable for
every play, adequate for every requirement. Tragedy?
Great mountains, awful snow storms, trackless sand-
wastes, fearful deserts, limitless canyons, more ocean line
than any other of the North American States, and the
densest forests. Comedy? Semi-tropical verdure, orange
blossoms, carpets of flowers, delicate waterfalls, the sing-
ing of a thousand varieties of birds, the gentlest zephyrs,
the bluest of blue skies. What wonder, then, as its history
is studied, as a whole or in parts, that it is unusually fasci-
nating, and that it presents features of unique interest?

It has long been the belief of the English-speaking
peoples that England is the one great colonizing power of
all history ; and, possibly, if extent of achievement be con-

Plate II

a*i*.

j>-

SANTA [NfiS MISSION

THE

NEW YORK

PUBLIC LIBRARY

fetor, Lenox and Tllden^

foundatien*-

1905^

THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS 3

sidcrcd this popular conception is true. Yet, considering
the time and conditions under which it took place, the stu-
dent may be pardoned if he is inclined to give to Spain the
honor and credit of the larger achievement, — larger in
the difficulties to be overcome ; larger in the spirit in which
it was undertaken ; larger in its ultimate results ; larger
in the wisdom by which its operators were directed ; larger
in the marvellous manhood it developed. The discoveries
of Columbus had fired the imagination of the bold and
adventurous spirits throughout Europe. They believed
that the nether coast of India had been discovered by sail-
ing westward instead of eastward as hitherto. For it must
not be overlooked that this was the popular belief for many
decades after Columbus ; there was no knowledge that a
new continent had been discovered.

Four hundred years ! How much may transpire in that
time. Columbus had sailed from Palos, Aug. 3, 1492, in
Spanish ships and backed by Spanish faith and money.
Fifty years previously the Byzantine Empire had sunk
under the weight of Turkish arms, and thus Europe was
opened up to vivifying influences from both East and West.
The dark ages were coming to an end. A flood of literature
and learning, science and art was released from the East,
and the discoveries in the West so fired men's imagination
that the mental and spiritual results bid fair to outrival
the material benefits.

The activity to which Spain was aroused was marvellous.
Fifty years saw expedition after expedition equipped with
fiery zeal and fervent enthusiasm. Ponce de Leon had
sailed from Puerto Rico and discovered Florida in 1512.
The following year Balboa discovered the Pacific. In 1517
and 1518 Cordoba and Grijalva sailed down the coast of
Yucatan, and the following year Cortes set forth from
Cuba to conquer the countries discovered by his two prede-
cessors. Born at Estremadura, Spain, seven years before
Columbus sailed, he was now, at 33 years of age, the alcalde

4 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

of Santiago, strong, crafty, brave, unscrupulous, am-
bitious, fearless, determined. The story of the conquest
of Mexico is more exciting and thrilling than any romance.
And let it not be forgotten that one of the avowed objects
his superior, Velasquez, had in sending him forth was the
conversion of the natives to Christianity. In all such expe-
ditions a padre accompanied the explorers, and whatever
may have been the character, the motives, the religious or
irreligious life of the promoter or commander of the expe-
dition, there can be no doubt as to the genuine piety, the
single-heartedness, the devotion and purity of the major
part of the priests who went along to undertake the con-
version of the natives. Indeed, as Padre Salmeron truly
says of New Mexico :

" It is worth consideration that there has been no corner dis-
covered in this New Spain in which the first Columbus was not
a fraile of St. Francis. They have ever been first to shed their
blood, that with such good mortar the edifice should be lasting
and eternal."

Mexico conquered, the Pacific Coast was reached, vessels
built upon its shores, and expeditions equipped for the
discovery of other lands, and the subjugation of their
peoples. Guzman, Becerra, Jimenez, Ulloa, Alarcon, and
Cabrillo were all important names on the Pacific Coast in
the first half of the sixteenth century.

And on the Atlantic events were transpiring that were
to lead to the ultimate colonization of our American South-
west, in what are now Arizona and New Mexico. For it
is indirectly to one of the Spanish explorations to the
Atlantic Coast that we owe their discovery.

How thrilling are the accounts of the adventures of
these early explorers. What direful risks men have
always taken to satisfy their lust for conquest, gold,
and power. How different results have been from what
they expected or anticipated. How short the distance the

THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS 5

most keen-sighted could peer into the dim obscurity of
the future.

Think for a few moments of the proud and haughty
Spanish don, with the high-sounding and potent name,
Alvar Nunez Cabcza de Vaca, treasurer of the expedition
of Panfilo de Narvaez. In June, 1527, this adventurous
and ill-fated leader started from Spain with a fleet of five
ships and six hundred men, to conquer and colonize a prov-
ince north of Panuco on the Gulf of Mexico. Storms,
hurricanes, and general disaster followed him and his
party as they neared the Gulf shores. In April, 1528,
they anchored in Tampa Bay, and tired of buffet-
ings by sea, the headstrong and wilful Narvaez resolved to
march ashore and let the vessels follow along the coast.
He and three hundred men and forty horses went inland.
After incredible hardships they grew as weary of the land
as before they had been of the sea, and, making five rude
craft, those who were still alive embarked, intending to skirt
the coast to Panuco. Six weeks of storm, thirst, hunger,
exposure, and attack by Indians found the fleet divided.
The boat commanded by Vaca, with one other, remained to-
gether. Their complete force numbered eighty men.
These landed only to be taken captive by the Indians.
Slavery was their lot until famine and pestilence swept
away all but fifteen. Of this fifteen, four ultimately es-
caped, and after nine long years of wandering on foot,
nakedness, starvation, adventures with wild beasts, to-day
in slavery, to-morrow almost worshipped because of sup-
posed supernatural powers, they found their way across
the continent to the Spanish settlements in northwestern
Mexico, — San Miguel in New Galicia, — April 1, 1536.

Vaca's stories, when, again clothed and in his right mind,
he came in contact with the Spanish officers, made a won-
derful impression. The hot blood of the conquist adores
was aroused to go forth and take possession of the land,
and it required great effort on the part of the viceroy to

6 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

restrain them. He refused to allow any exploring expedi-
tions to start until he had sent out a scouting party. Who
should go? This was no pleasure trip. It was not to be
a going forth " of an army with banners." It was to be a
surveying of a country peopled with savages, where track-
less deserts might be encountered, and frightful hardships
anticipated with tolerable certainty. Priests — no matter
of what church — have always made brave, adventurous,
and successful explorers. " To seek and to save," — was
not that their commission, given by Christ Himself?
What, then, was danger, what suffering, torture, death
itself? No greater reward could come to them than the
crown of martyrdom. Hence their fearlessness, their per-
sistency, their eagerness, their energy. Knowing this, the
viceroy, Mendoza, asked Marcos de Niza, the chief of the
band of Franciscan missionaries, to adventure forth, ac-
companied only by a fellow friar, and Stephen, a negro
who had been one of Cabeza de Vaca's comrades, to spy
out the land and report upon Vaca's stories. Marcos,
accompanied by Fray Onorato, left Culiacan, March 7,
1539, penetrated into New Mexico, and from a hillside
secretly surveyed one of the villages of Cibola, now known
to us as the pueblos of Zuni. This was as far as he
deemed it necessary to go. He therefore returned to
Mexico and made his report.

It was Marcos's favorable report that led Coronado to
start out on his great expedition, — the expedition that
led to the subjugation of Zuni, the pueblos of the Hopi
(or Moki), the Tiguas — Teewahs — of the Rio Grande
Valley, and the discovery of the Grand Canyon of the
Colorado River, Acoma, &c. Accompanying Coronado
were three Franciscan friars, Marcos aforesaid, Fray
Antonio Victoria, and Fray Juan de Padilla and Luis de
Escalona, a lay brother. Marcos soon returned, and An-
tonio Victoria was compelled to do so by a broken leg ; so
Juan de Padilla and the lay brother were the first mission-

THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS 7

aries to enter the great field, now Arizona and New
Mexico.

But Mexico proper, and all the newly established Cen-
tral American provinces were being flooded with mission-
aries. The whole Church in Spain was alive with zeal to
convert the vast populations of the new world. Jesuits,
Dominicans, Jeromites, and Franciscans were alike active
and zealous. Each order had its own work, and there was
considerable rivalry, if not jealousy, between them.

Churches by the score, nay by the hundreds, were built,
and missions established on every hand in what are now
the Mexican provinces. But it was not until Russian
aggression in the North rendered Spain fearful, that a
real and determined effort was made to establish missions
and promote colonization in Alta California ; and this was
two hundred and thirty years after Juan de Padilla had
begun work in New Mexico.

In that two hundred and thirty years much had tran-
spired in the Mission field of what is now New Mexico,
Arizona, Texas, and Lower California. In another volume
I shall present the results of the missionary labors of these
years in the four districts named.

It had always been the intention of Spain to colonize
Alta California, but the pressure of events elsewhere had
prevented. The Church earnestly desired it in order to
extend its dominion over the souls of the aborigines.
These, according to the stern theology of the time, were
eternally damned unless the saving offices of Holy Church
were given to them, and full of earnestness and zeal the
priests never ceased to urge the establishment of colonies
and missions that they might accomplish that highly de-
sirable end. But not until political events crowded the
Spanish monarch into action was it effected.

Spain was already conducting a large and profitable
trade with its possessions, the Philippines. It was a long
sail across the Pacific Ocean to Mexican ports, and the

8 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

English free-booters often played sad havoc with the gal-
leons laden with merchandise and other wealth on their pas-
sage. England had just gone to war with Spain (this was
in 1760), and her naval activities were especially perni-
cious ; Russia was crowding down from the North, having
already established herself in Alaska, and Charles and his
ministry began to feel the urgent necessity of doing some-
thing quickly if it were to be done at all.

It is not always a safe policy to conjecture results if
certain events had happened, yet in this case it seems prob-
able that the whole history of California would have been
materially different, indeed that to-day California would
not be ranged under the flag of the United States, had not
King Charles sent out his colonizers and missionaries just
at the time he did. Whether one believes or disbelieves
in " the hand of God in history," it was at least exceedingly
fortunate that the Missions were established by Spain, for
in the course of time, she lost her hold in Mexico, and Cali-
fornia became a province of the new Republic of Mexico.
Now, had California at this time, or earlier, been under con-
trol of the Russians, who, it must not be forgotten, were
slowly reaching down toward San Francisco from Alaska,
and who later reached Mt. St. Helena and Fort Ross, —
the latter but sixty -five miles north, — the United States
would have had Russia to deal with instead of Mexico.
California was seized because the United States was at war
with Mexico. Two years after the seizure, gold was dis-
covered, and California became a Mecca for the adven-
turers and the gold-lustful of the world.

Let us here briefly review the facts as they occurred, and
then note what they would have been had Russia, instead of
Spain, colonized California.

First: Spain assumes political control of California,
and at the same time establishes the Missions.

Second: Mexico severs her relations with Spain, and
California becomes a province of the Republic of Mexico.

THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS 9

Third: The United States and Mexico go to war; Cali-
fornia is seized by the United States as a war measure, and
finally becomes an integral part of United States territory.

Had the Russians gained a foothold in California prior
to the Spanish Franciscans, it is scarcely possible that they
would have relinquished the natural advantages afforded
by so remarkable a base of supplies for their Alaskan
colonies.

Had Russia owned or controlled California when gold
was discovered, the territory would never have been relin-
quished ; for, as yet, the United States has had no occa-
sion to go to war with Russia. So it is apparent that
California owes its place in the North American Union
of States to Spain and the Franciscan Mission Fathers.
Owing to this fact, the steps of the founders of these
Missions assume new interest and greater importance.

Now to return after this brief digression which fore-
stalls the actual events. Just at this particular juncture
King Charles decided to banish the order of Jesuits com-
pletely from his dominions. To carry out this order in
Mexico and the peninsula of Lower California (then, as
now, a province of Mexico), he appointed Don Jose
Galvez, a tried and trusted crown official, as Visitador
General with almost plenary authority.

The Jesuits had long been growing in power. Their
Missions were planted wherever the name of Spain was
known. While many of the members of the Order were
simple-hearted, honest toilers for God, others, and these
the leaders, were fired with lust for political as well as
ecclesiastical power. Possibly it was their success in gain-
ing this power that led to their banishment. Writing in
1793, Gigedo unconsciously shows what influence they had
in government circles. In his report upon Loreto, the
capital of Lower California, he says : —

" It had as garrison a troop of cavalry, mounted and armed in
accordance with the customs of the ^country ; its pay (including

10 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

that of the crew of the vessel carrying supplies) amounted to
#."2,515, which was paid out of the royal treasury. The Jesuits
really collected and distributed this money, and also took care
of the discipline and service of said troop, placed in commission
for the sole purpose of defending and preserving the fifteen
missions established and administered by the Society of Jesus."

It would be interesting could a full recital of the
history of Jesuit expulsion from Spanish dominions be
given. It is too long a story. It was the most extensive
proscription known in European history. Henry the
Eighth's cruel treatment of the Carthusians and Bene-
dictines affected a far less number than the action of
Charles, this " Most Catholic King," in thus banishing,
without open accusation or public trial, over six thousand
men, many of them of the best families and the highest edu-
cation. Ever since his accession to the throne he had seem-
ingly been friendly to the Jesuits, indeed, had chosen one,
Father Wendlingen, as tutor for his eldest son. Suddenly,
and without any reason which he was willing to give to the
world, — it never was given and to this day is unknown, —
he completely turned against them. A secret council was
called, the proceedings of which were never recorded fully
in the archives, and with a care and thoroughness that
reveal a relentless purpose, arrangements were perfected
for the arrest and deportation of every professed Jesuit
in the Spanish dominions. In order that there might be
no failure, the maps were studied, and a date fixed upon,
so that the secret orders of the King might be carried out
simultaneously in every part of his domain. This was not
possible in the far-away colonies, but even there a later
date was fixed, and the royal commissioners were required
to see the decree enforced with exactitude at the time set.
Galvez was the appointed officer for Mexico and Lower
California. Those who were arrested in Spain were de-
ported to Italy, and those from Mexico were sent to the
remote Island of Corsica. On landing, each man received

THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS 11

a letter saying that so long as he remained there, refrained
from criticising the act which had banished him, refrained
from any communication, even with relatives in Spain or
Mexico, he should receive a yearly allowance of one hun-
dred dollars. And then, to make the secrecy more effec-
tive, it added that if any one of them violated any of these
conditions the yearly contribution would be withdrawn from
all.

Thus it was that Lower California lost its Jesuit mis-
sionaries.

They were sixteen in number, officiating at fourteen
Missions, which extended from Cape San Lucas, on the
south, to Santa Maria, not far from the mouth of the
Colorado River, on the north. The story of the founding
of these Missions by the Jesuits forms an interesting part
of the companion volume to this, and their banishment from
their arduous labors, in which many of them were expend-
ing the tireless energy of devoted lives, is pathetic in the
extreme.

By the same royal order that banished the Jesuits the
charge was laid upon the Franciscan College of San Fer-
nando, in the City of Mexico, to send priests to take their
place. In casting about for a man to direct this important
work, the unanimous choice fell upon Fray Junipero Serra.
The fifteen others, hurriedly gathered together, were sent
over to direct the affairs of the peninsula Missions.

Here Galvez found them when he arrived three months
later. Of his work in the peninsula the companion volume
to this will fully treat. What now concerns us is his action
towards the colonization and missionizing of Alta Cali-
fornia. His orders upon the subject were clear and im-
perative: "Occupy and fortify San Diego and Monterey
for God and the King of Spain." Galvez was a good son
of the Church, full of enthusiasm, having good sense, great
executive ability, considerable foresight, untiring energy,
and decided contempt for all routine formalities. He

12 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

began his work with a truly Western vigor. Being in-
vested with almost absolute power, there were none above
him to interpose vexatious formalities to hinder the imme-
diate execution of his plans.

In order that the spiritual part of the work might be
as carefully planned as the political, Galvez summoned
Serra. What a fine combination ! Desire and power hand
in hand ! What nights were spent by the two in planning !
What arguments, what discussions, what final agreements
the old adobe rooms occupied by them must have heard!
But it is by just such men that great enterprises are suc-
cessfully begun and executed. For fervor and enthusiasm,
power and sense, when combined, produce results. Plans
were formulated with a completeness and rapidity that
equalled the best days of the conquist adores. Four expe-
ditions were to go : two by land and two by sea. So would
the risk of failure be lessened, and practical knowledge of
both routes be gained. Galvez had two available vessels :
the " San Carlos " and the " San Antonio."

For money the visitor-general called upon the Pious
Fund, which, on the expulsion of the Jesuits, he had placed
in the hands of a governmental administrator. He had
also determined that the Missions of the peninsula should
do their share to help in the founding of the new Missions,
and Serra approved and helped in the work.

When Galvez arrived he found Gaspar de Portola act-
ing as civil and military governor, and Fernando Javier
Rivera y Moncada, the former governor, commanding the
garrison at Loreto. Both were captains, Rivera having
been long in the country. He determined to avail himself
of the services of these two men, each of them to command
one of the land expeditions. Consequently with great
rapidity, for those days, operations were set in motion.
Rivera in August or September, 1768, was sent on a com-
mission to visit in succession all the Missions, gathering
from each one all the provisions, live-stock, and implements

Plate III

a. SAX DIEGO MISSION

tr '"" ',

■'. SAN CAKhOs MISSION

THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS 13

that could be spared. He was also to prevail upon all the
available families he could find to go along as colonists.
In the meantime others sent out by Galvez gathered in
church furniture, ornaments, and vestments for the Mis-
sions, and later Serra made a tour for the same purpose.
San Jose was named the patron saint of the expedition,
and in December the " San Carlos " arrived at La Paz
partially laden with supplies.

The vessel was in bad condition, so it had to be unloaded,
careened, cleaned, and repaired, and then reloaded, and in
this latter work both Galvez and Serra helped, the former
packing the supplies for the Mission of San Buenaventura
in which he was particularly interested, and Serra attend-
ing to those for San Carlos. They joked each other as they
worked, and when Galvez completed his task ahead of
Serra he had considerable fun at the Padre presidente's
expense. In addition to the two Missions named, one other,
dedicated to San Diego, was first to be established. By the
9th of January, 1769, the " San Carlos " was ready.
Confessions were heard, masses said, the communion ad-
ministered, and Galvez made a rousing speech. Then
Serra formally blessed the undertaking, cordially embraced
Fray Parron, to whom the spiritual care of the vessel
was intrusted, the sails were lowered, and off started
the first division of the party that meant so much to
the future California. In another vessel Galvez went
along until the " San Carlos " doubled the point and
started northward, when, with gladness in his heart and
songs on his lips, he returned to still further prosecute
his work.

On the 15th of February the " San Antonio," under the
command of Perez, was ready and started. Now the land
expeditions must be moved. Rivera had gathered his
stock, etc., at Santa Maria, the most northern of the Mis-
sions, but finding scant pasturage there he had moved
eight or ten leagues farther north to a place called by the

14 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

Indians Velicata. Fray Juan Crespi was sent to join
Rivera, and Fray Lasuen met him at Santa Maria in
order to bestow the apostolic blessing ere the journey
beo-an, and on the 24th of March Lasuen stood at Velicata
and saw the little band of pilgrims start northward for the
land of the gentiles, driving their herds before them.
What a procession it must have been! The animals,
driven by Indians under the direction of soldiers and
priests, straggling along or dashing wildly forward as
such creatures are wont to do ! Here, as well as in the
starting of the " San Carlos " and " San Antonio," is a
great scene for an artist, and some day canvases worthy
the subjects should be placed in the California State
Capitol at Sacramento.

Governor Portola was already on his way north, but
Serra was delayed by an ulcerated foot and leg, and, be-
sides, he had not yet gathered together all the Mission sup-
plies he needed, so it was May 15 before this division
finally left Velicata. The day before leaving, Serra estab-
lished the Mission of San Fernando at the place of their
departure, and left Padre Campa in charge.

Now blow, ye favoring winds, and, ye baffling storms,
be restrained ; the sea has upon its bosom two vessels that
are to begin the history of the Golden State, and near by,
comparatively speaking, on the land two divisions of weary
pilgrims are marching along, in one of which is a man
who is to leave his powerful impress upon the new country
to which he journeys with so much fiery zeal and religious
enthusiasm.

Padre Serra's diary, kept in his own handwriting dur-
ing this trip from Loreto to San Diego, is now in the
Edward E. Ayer Library in Chicago. Some of his expres-
sions are most striking. In one place, speaking of Captain
Rivera's going from Mission to Mission to take from them
" whatever he might choose of what was in them for the
founding of the new Missions," he says : " Thus he did ;

THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS 15

and altho' it was with a somewhat heavy hand, it was
undergone for God and the king."

The work of Galvez for Alta California was by no means
yet accomplished. Another vessel, the " San Jose," built
at his new shipyard, appeared two days before the " San
Antonio " set sail, and soon afterward Galvez went across
the gulf in it to secure a load of fresh supplies. On
the 16th of June the " San Jose " sailed for San Diego
as a relief boat to the " San Carlos " and " San Antonio,"
but evidently met with misfortune, for three months later
it returned to the Loreto harbor with a broken mast and
in general bad condition. It was unloaded and repaired
at San Bias, and in the following June again started out,
laden with supplies, but never reached its destination, dis-
appearing forever without leaving a trace behind.

The " San Antonio " first arrived at San Diego. About
April 11, 1769, it anchored in the bay, and awakened in
the minds of the natives strange feelings of astonishment
and awe. Its presence recalled to them the " stories of the
old," when a similar apparition startled their ancestors.
That other white-winged creature had come long genera-
tions ago, and had gone away, never to be seen again. Was
this not to do likewise? Ah, no! in this vessel was con-
tained the beginning of the end of the primitive man.
The solitude of the centuries was now to be disturbed and
its peace invaded ; aboriginal life was to be destroyed for-
ever. The advent of this vessel was the death knell of the
Indian tribes. Now was to begin the actual change in the
life of the California Indians, such a change as they had
never before known, perhaps, in the whole of their history.
As we look back upon it, the picture is a fascinating one.
A handful of priests, hampered by long gowns, in a far-
away, strange land, surrounded by a vast population of
aborigines, neither as wild and ferocious nor as dull and
stupid as various writers have described them, yet brave,
courageous, liberty-loving, and self-willed enough to render

16 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

their subjugation a difficult matter. With a courage that
was sublime in its very boldness, and which, better than ten
thousand verbal eulogies, shows the self -centered confidence
and mental poise of the men, this handful of priests
grappled with their task, brought the vast horde of un-
tamed Indians under subjection, trained them to systematic
work, and in a few short years so thoroughly accomplished
what they had determined, that the Mission buildings were
erected by these former savages, who were made useful
workers in a large diversity of fields.

Little, however, did either the company on board the
" San Antonio " or the Indians themselves conceive such
thoughts as these on that memorable April day.

But where was the " San Carlos," which sailed almost a
month earlier than the " San Antonio " ? She was strug-
gling with difficulties, — leaking water-casks, bad water,
scurvy, cold weather. Therefore it was not until April
29 that she appeared. In vain the captain of the " San
Antonio " waited for the " San Carlos " to launch a boat
and to send him word as to the cause of the late arrival of
the flagship ; so he visited her to discover for himself the
cause. He found a sorry state of affairs. All on board
were ill from scurvy. Hastily erecting canvas houses on
the beach, the men of his own crew went to the relief of
their suffering comrades of the other vessel. Then the
crew of the relieving ship took the sickness, and soon there
were so few well men left that they could scarcely attend
the sick and bury the dead. Those first two weeks in the
new land, in the month of May, 1769, were never to be for-
gotten. Of about ninety sailors, soldiers, and mechanics,
less than thirty survived; over sixty were buried by the
wash of the waves of the Bay of Saint James.

Then came Rivera and Crespf, with Lieutenant Fages
and twenty-five soldiers.

Immediately a permanent camp was sought and found
at what is now known as Old San Diego, where the two

Plate IV

FIGURE Of CHRIST, MISSION SAN JOSE" ORPHANAGE

THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS 17

old palms still remain, with the ruins of the presidio on the
hill behind. Six weeks were busily occupied in caring for
the sick and in unloading the " San Antonio." Then the
fourth and last party of the explorers arrived, — Governor
Portola on June 29, and Serra on July 1. What a jour-
ney that had been for Serra ! He had walked all the way,
and when but two days out his badly ulcerated leg began
to trouble him. Portola wished to send him back, but Serra
would not consent. He called to one of the muleteers and
asked him to make a salve for his wound just such as he
would put upon the saddle galls of one of his animals. It
was done, and in a single night the ointment and the
Father's prayers worked the miracle of healing.

After a general thanksgiving, in which exploding gun-
powder was used to give effect, a consultation was held,
at which it was decided to send back the " San Antonio "
to San Bias for supplies, and for new crews for herself
and the " San Carlos." A land expedition under Portola
was to go to Monterey, while Serra and others remained at
San Diego to found the Mission. The vessel sailed, Por-
tola and his band started north, and on July 16, 1769,
Serra raised the Cross, blessed it, said mass, preached,
and formally established the Mission of San Diego de
Alcala.

It mattered not that the Indians held aloof; that only
the people who came on the expedition were present to hear.
From the hills beyond, doubtless, peered and peeped the
curious natives. All was mysterious to them. Later,
however, they became troublesome, stealing from the sick
and pillaging from the " San Carlos." At last, they
made a determined raid for plunder, which the Spanish
soldiers resisted. A flight of arrows was the result. A
boy was killed and three of the new-comers wounded. A
volley of musket-balls killed three Indians, wounded sev-
eral more, and cleared the settlement. After such an intro-
duction, there is no wonder that conversions were slow.

18 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

Not a neophyte gladdened the Father's heart for more
than a year.

In the meantime, Portola, Crespf, Rivera, and Fages
were on their way north. They reached the Bay of Mon-
terey and, failing to recognize it, passed farther north,
where they saw the Bay of San Francisco. This was not
the great inland sea we now know by that name, but the
water under Point Reyes, which for years had been thus
known. It was on this expedition, however, that Ortega
discovered the present-known Bay of San Francisco, al-
though it was not until several years later that it received
that name.

Disheartened and weary, the party returned to San
Diego ; only to bring sorrow and sadness to the sick and
waiting ones at that place. Portola announced his decision
to return to Mexico and to abandon the enterprise. But
this was not to be. When hope seemed to have gone, and
waiting had become despair, the " San Antonio " returned
with abundant supplies. Oh, what a blessed vision was
that of the long-looked-for vessel on the very day the
abandonment had been decided! Captain Perez had
started from La Paz with instructions to proceed directly
to Monterey. Of course, he knew nothing of the return
of the party from that point, and although the natives
of the Santa Barbara channel informed him of such
return, he would have gone on, had not the loss of an
anchor compelled him to return to San Diego to replace
it from the " San Carlos." Thus, the small matter of
losing an anchor perhaps led to the saving of the enter-
prise and to the founding of the Missions as planned.

With new energy, vigor, and hope, Portola set out again
for the search of Monterey, this time accompanied by Serra
as well as Crespf. This time the attempt was successful.
They recognized the bay, and on June 3, 1770, a shelter
of branches was erected on the beach, a cross made ready
near an old oak, the bells were hung and blessed, and the

THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS 19

services of founding began. Padre Serra preached with
his usual fervor; he exhorted the natives to come and be
saved, and put to rout all infernal foes by an abundant
sprinkling of holy water. The Mission was dedicated to
San Carlos Borromeo.

Mrs. Leland Stanford recently erected at Monterey a
marble statue of Serra standing in a boat, about to land
at that point. On the pedestal is a tablet which recounts
his heroic deeds.

Thus two of the long desired Missions were established,
and the passion of Serra's longings, instead of being as-
suaged, raged now all the fiercer. It was not long, how-
ever, before he found it to be bad policy to have the Mis-
sions for the Indian neophytes too near the presidio, or bar-
racks for the soldiers. These latter could not always be
controlled, and they early began a course which was utterly
demoralizing to both sexes, for the women of a people
cannot be debauched without exciting the men to fierce
anger, or making them as bad as their women. Hence
Serra removed the Missions : that of San Diego six miles
up the valley to a point where the ruins now stand, while
that of San Carlos he re-established in the Carmelo valley.

The Mission next to be established should have been
San Buenaventura, but events stood in the way ; so, on
July 14, 1771, Serra (who had been zealously laboring
with the heathen near Monterey), with eight soldiers, three
sailors, and a few Indians, passed down the Salinas River
and established the mission of San Antonio de Padua.
The site was a beautiful one, in an oak-studded glen, near
a fair-sized stream. The passionate enthusiasm of Serra
can be understood from the fact that after the bells were
hung from a tree, he loudly tolled them, crying the while
like one possessed : " Come, gentiles, come to the Holy
Church, come and receive the faith of Jesus Christ ! "
Padre Pieras could not help reminding his superior that
not an Indian was within sight or hearing, and that it

20 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

would be more practical to proceed with the ritual. One
native, however, did witness the ceremoiry, and he soon
brought a large number of his companions, who became
tractable enough to help in erecting the rude church, bar-
racks, and houses with which the priests and soldiers were
compelled to be content in those early days.

On September 8, Padres Somera and Cambon founded
the Mission of San Gabriel Arcangel, originally about
six miles from the present site. Here, at first, the natives
were inclined to be hostile ; a large force under two chief-
tains appearing, in order to prevent the priests from hold-
ing their service. But at the elevation of a painting of
the Virgin, the opposition ceased, and the two chieftains
threw their necklaces at the feet of the Beautiful Queen.
Still, a few wicked men can undo in a short time the work
of many good ones. Padre Palou says that outrages by
soldiers upon the Indian women precipitated an attack
upon the Spaniards, especially upon two, at one of whom
the chieftain (whose wife had been outraged by the man)
fired an arrow. Stopping it with his shield, the soldier
levelled his musket and shot the injured husband dead.
Ah! sadness of it! The unbridled passions of men of
the new race already foreshadowed the death of the old
race, even while the good priests were seeking to ele-
vate and to christianize it. This attack and consequent
disturbance delayed still longer the founding of San
Buenaventura.

On his way south (for he had now decided to go to
Mexico), Serra founded, on September 1, 1772, the Mis-
sion of San Luis Obispo de Tolosa. The natives called the
location Tixlini, and half a league away was a famous
canyada in which Fages, some time previously, had killed
a number of bears to provide meat for the starving people
at Monterey. This act made the natives well disposed to-
wards the priests in charge of the new Mission, and they
helped to erect buildings, offered their children for baptism,

THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS 21

and brought of their supply of food to the priests, whose
stores were by no means abundant.

While these events were transpiring Governor Portola
had returned to Lower California, and Lieutenant Fages
was appointed commandant in his stead. This, it soon
turned out, was a great mistake. Fages and Serra did not
work well together, and, at the time of the founding of
San Luis Obispo, relations between them were strained
almost to breaking. Serra appears to have had just cause
for complaint. The enthusiastic, impulsive missionary,
desirous of furthering his important religious work, be-
lieved himself to be restrained by a cold-blooded, official-
minded soldier, to whom routine was more important than
the salvation of the Indians. Serra complained that Fages
opened his letters and those of his fellow missionaries ; that
he supported his soldiers when their evil conduct rendered
the work of the missionaries unavailing ; that he interfered
with the management of the stations and the punishment
of neophytes, and devoted to his own uses the property and
facilities of the Missions.

In the main, this complaint received attention from the
Junta in Mexico. Fages was ultimately removed, and
Rivera appointed governor in his place. More mission-
aries, money, and supplies were placed at Serra's disposal,
and he was authorized to proceed to the establishment of
the additional Missions which he had planned. He also
obtained authority from the highest powers of the Church
to administer the important sacrament of confirmation.
This is a right generally conferred only upon a bishop
and his superiors, but as California was so remote and the
visits of a bishop impossible, it was deemed appropriate to
grant this privilege to Serra.

Rejoicing and grateful, the earnest president sent
Padres Fcrmin Francisco de Lasuen and Gregorio Amurrio,
with six soldiers, to begin work at San Juan Capistrano.
This occurred in August, 1775. On the thirtieth of the

22 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

following October, work was begun, and everything
seemed auspicious, when suddenly, as if God had ceased to
smile upon them, terrible news came from San Diego.
There, apparently, things had been going well. Sixty
converts were baptized on October 3, and the priests re-
joiced at the success of their efforts. But the Indians
back in the mountains were alarmed and hostile. Who
were these white-faced strangers causing their brother
aborigines to kneel before a strange God? What was the
meaning of that mystic ceremony of sprinkling with
water? The demon of priestly jealousy was awakened in
the breasts of the tingaivashes — the medicine men — of
the tribes about San Diego, who arranged a fierce midnight
attack which should rid them forever of these foreign con-
jurers, the men of the " bad medicine."

Exactly a month and a day after the baptism of the
sixty converts, at the dead of^ight, the mission buildings
were fired and the eleven persons of Spanish blood were
awakened by flames and the yells of a horde of excited
savages. A fierce conflict ensued. Arrows were fired on
the one side, gun-shots on the other, while the flames
roared in accompaniment and lighted the scene. Both
Indians and Spaniards fell. The following morning, when
hostilities had ceased and the enemy had withdrawn, the
body of Padre Jayme was discovered in the dry bed of a
neighboring creek, bruised from head to foot with blows
from stones and clubs, naked, and bearing eighteen arrow-
wounds. \

The sad news was sent to Serra, and his words at hear-
ing it, show the invincible missionary spirit of the man:
" God be thanked ! Now the soil is watered ; now will the
reduction of the Dieguinos be complete ! "

At San Juan Capistrano, however, the news caused
serious alarm. Work ceased, the bells were buried, and
the priests returned.

The reader's attention is directed now to another part

Plate V

a. SAN GABRIEL MISSION

i, ^\N LUIS OBISPO UK FORE RESTORATION

THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS 23

of the King of Spain's dominions, soon to be closely con-
nected at this stage of affairs with the California Missions.
In Western New Mexico (in that portion now called Ari-
zona) there were several Missions not far from the presidio
of Tubac, which is now a small village some forty miles
south of Tucson. It was deemed desirable that a road
should be established between these New Mexico (Arizona)
points and the California Missions, and, as a midway stop-
ping place, it was decided to establish Mission settlements
on the Colorado River.

For many years, — indeed ever since the days of the
Jesuits, — when the revered Padre Kino was at work
among the Pimas, it had been purposed to establish Mis-
sions among the Yuma Indians on the Colorado River.
Accordingly, in 1774, Don Juan Bautista de Anza, captain
of the presidio of Tubac, left that post on the 8th of Jan-
uary with a body of thirty-four men, sixty-five cattle, and
140 horses, and accompanied by Padres Garces and Diaz.
Anza was to find a means of communication between
Sonora (his post of Tubac was in Northern Sonora, which
reached up as far as the Gila River), and the Missions
of California. He arrived at San Gabriel May 22, and
then went to Monterey with Padre Serra, who reached
San Gabriel from San Diego at the time of his arrival.

As they passed through the Colorado River region the
priests investigated conditions as carefully as possible in re-
gard to the foundation of Missions, and on the return trip,
Garces made a prolonged visit in order that he might
add to his knowledge. Some three years previously he had
made a survey of the country and its inhabitants. He was
fired with the same untiring zeal that dominated Serra,
and he never rested until the desire of his heart in the
establishment of Missions for the conversion of the Yumas
was accomplished. These Missions will be referred to
elsewhere.

This journey of Anza's was the first exploration across

24 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

the vast waste of country stretching from Western Ari-
zona, over the Colorado Desert, to the California Mis*
sions, though Garces had already been as far as the
Colorado River.

The first trip thus successfully accomplished, the new
viceroy, Bucareli, instructed Anza to proceed to Sonora
and Sinoloa to recruit soldiers and settlers for a new pre-
sidio which he had decided to establish at San Francisco.
The party was made up in the presidio of San Miguel de
Orcasitas, and marched up to Tubac, where a complete
roster was made by Padre Font, who accompanied the
expedition, and whose diary of the trip is still in existence
in the Library of Brown University, Providence, R. I.

On their arrival at San Gabriel, January 4, 1776
(memorable year on the other side of the continent), they
found Rivera had arrived the day before, on his way south
to quell the Indian disturbances at San Diego, and Anza
on hearing the news, deemed the matter of sufficient impor-
tance to justify his turning aside from his direct purpose
and going south with Rivera. Taking seventeen of his
soldiers along, he left the others to recruit their energies
at San Gabriel, but the inactivity of Rivera did not please
him, and, as things were not going well at San Gabriel
he soon returned and started northward. It was a weary
journey, the rains having made some parts of the road
well-nigh impassable, and even the women had to walk.
Yet on the 10th of March they all arrived safely and
happily at Monterey, where Serra himself came to con-
gratulate them.

After an illness which confined him to his bed, Anza,
against the advice of his physician, started to investigate
the San Francisco region, as upon his decision rested the
selection of the site. The bay was pretty well explored,
and the site chosen, near a spring and creek, which was
named from the day, — the last Friday in Lent, —
Arroyo de los Dolores. Hence the name so often applied

Plate a I

i =

— ^

THE
YO

and 1 iden
905

THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS 25

to the Mission itself : it being commonly known even to-day
as " Mission Dolores."

His duty performed, Anza returned south and Rivera
appointed Lieutenant Moraga to take charge of the San
Francisco colonists, and on the 26th of July, 1776, a camp
was pitched on the allotted site. The next day a building
of tules was begun and on the twenty-eighth of the same
month mass was said by Padre Palou. In the meantime,
the vessel " San Carlos " was expected from Monterey
with all needful supplies for both the presidio and the
new Mission, but, buffeted by adverse winds, it was forced
down the coast as far as San Diego, and did not arrive
outside of what is now the Bay of San Francisco until
August 17.

The two carpenters from the " San Carlos," with a squad
of sailors, were set to work on the new buildings, and on
September 17 the foundation ceremonies of the presidio
took place. On that same day, Lord Howe of the British
army, with his Hessian mercenaries, was rejoicing in the
city of New York in anticipation of an easy conquest of
the army of the revolutionists.

September 17, the day of " the stigmata of our seraphic
father, Saint Francis," — memorable day, memorable year !
Little did that band of Spaniards imagine the importance
of their act ! The dreams of the most vivid imagination
could not have conceived what the course of a hundred and
twenty-five years would show on the site of their insignifi-
cant camp and its surroundings : a great city, the gateway
to the Orient, the home of nearly half a million inhabi-
tants ; the hills which they laboriously climbed echoing the
clangor of bells; the bustle of factories, foundries, and
great ship-building, sugar-refining, and other gigantic
enterprises ; the silent bay changed into the busy meeting-
place of a thousand ships of all nations and tonnages.

It was the establishment of that presidio, followed by
that of the Mission on October 9, which predestined the

26 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

name of the future great American city, born of adventure
and romance.

Padres Palou and Cambon had been hard at work since
the end of July. Aided by Lieutenant Moraga, they built
a church fifty-four feet long, and a house thirty by fifteen
feet, both structures being of wood, plastered with clay, and
roofed with tules. On October 3, the day preceding the
festival of St. Francis, bunting and flags from the ships
were brought to decorate the new building; but, owing to
the absence of Moraga, the formal dedication did not take
place until October 9. Happy was Serra's friend and
brother, Palou, to celebrate high mass at this dedication
of the church named after the great founder of his order,
and none the less so were his assistants, Fathers Cambon,
Nocedal, and Peiia.

Just before the founding of the Mission of San Fran-
cisco, the Spanish Fathers witnessed an Indian battle.
Natives advanced from the region of San Mateo and vigo-
rously attacked the San Francisco Indians ; burning their
houses and compelling them to flee in their tule rafts to the
islands and the opposite shores of the bay. Months elapsed
before these defeated Indians returned, to afford the
Fathers at San Francisco an opportunity to work for the
salvation of their souls.

In October of the following year, Serra paid his first
visit to San Francisco, and said mass on the titular saint's
day. Then, standing near the Golden Gate, he exclaimed:
" Thanks be to God that now our father, St. Francis,
with the holy processional cross of Missions has reached
the last limit of the Californian continent. To go farther
he must have boats."

There is a great misapprehension in the minds of many
people as to how the Missions were founded. The fact
that the missionary work of the various Protestant
churches of the United States is done under the auspices
and at the expense of the churches themselves has led to

THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS 27

the assumption that the same was the case with the found-
ing of the Missions of the Southwest. To correct this mis-
apprehension, it is a pity that all who hold it could not
read in toto the thirty-eight pages of closely printed
" Regulations and Instructions for the Garrisons of the
Peninsula of Californias, erection of new Missions, and
fostering of the colonization and extension of the settle-
ments of Monterrey." These were drawn up by Governor
Felipe de Neve, in accordance with a kingly decree of
March 21, 1775, and sent to Josef de Galvez, Viceroy of
New Spain, January 19, 1781, for the King's approval;
which being given, the whole was ordered printed and
copies sent to all the officials concerned.

From it is learned the close connection between the
Missions of the Peninsula of (Lower) California and those
in the California of the United States, and the dependence
of all of them upon the central government in Mexico. It
is made obligatory upon the governor to inspect the mili-
tary posts and missions ; full instructions are given as to
the shipping and receipt of supplies. Loreto (in Lower
California), San Francisco, and San Diego, as soon as
their number of mules reached twenty-four and thirty re-
spectively, were required to see that thirty others were
supplied to the new post that was to be established in the
pass of Santa Barbara. A complete account is made of
the various allowances of the posts of San Diego, San
Carlos, and San Francisco, and also of the post which
shall be established in the pass of Santa Barbara. The
conduct of the officers and troops was prescribed, and the
duties of the paymaster in regard to food supplies, etc.,
enumerated with exhaustive thoroughness. The kind treat-
ment of the Indians prescribed in former orders is again
required. We are told:

" There is on hand at the Post of Monterey a herd of cattle
which at present exceeds 500 head of all ages, and another herd

28 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

of mares which counts up over 170 head, and about 250 head
of sheep and goats, with some droves of Burros and Pigs ; and
in the Post of San Francisco there are 124 head of Cattle, all be-
longing to the Royal Exchequer. It is made the duty of the
Paymasters to carefully oversee the herding and care of said
Herds, their increase, their distribution to settlers as pay or
reimbursement ; and with care in breeding shall be kept the
outgo of Colts, Bulls, Calves, Sheep, Geldings, Goats, Pigs, and
of the others that because old and barren should be constantly
used up. The reckoning of these herds shall be kept, to give
account of their produce and increase to the Royal Exchequer,
as hereinafter set forth."

Even the methods and place of measuring of grain is
prescribed, nothing being deemed of too small importance.
In the titles referring to settlement it is candidly stated
that:

"The most important object for the fulfilment of the pious
intentions of our Lord the King, is to perpetuate His Majesty's
dominion over the extensive territory embraced for more than
200 leagues by the new settlements and respective posts of San
Diego, Monterey, and San Francisco ; to advance the Conversion,
and to make this so vast Country as useful as possible to the
State — inhabited by innumerable gentiles (except 1 749 Chris-
tians of both sexes at the eight missions on the road between
the first and the last Posts), erecting Pueblos (towns) of civilized
people, etc."

It is then definitely stated what shall be paid to and
provided for each new settler and settlement. Regulations
are made about building-lots, plazas, pastures, etc., and
settlers are forbidden to mortgage " the House or fields "
granted to them.

"They are to be exempt from payment of tithes or any other
tax on the fruits and produce brought them by the lands and
herds with which they are furnished, on conditions that in the
first year from the day they are allotted their lots and fields they

THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS 29

shall build their houses as best they may, and dwell in them ;
shall open the proper ditches for the irrigation of their lands,
placing on their boundary lines, instead of landmarks, useful
fruit or forest trees, at the rate of ten to the Field ; and equally
that they shall open the accquia or zanja madre (mother ditch),
build a reservoir and other public works necessary to benefit the
crops."

Settlers are explicitly instructed in such matters even as
the breeding of their stock, and distinctly forbidden to kill
one of the original head given to him within the term of
five years.

Matters outside their immediate California jurisdiction
also gave considerable worry to the authorities. Russia
and England were constantly buzzing about, like trouble-
some flies, and Spain was irritated and disturbed. One
has but to read the report of Viceroy Gigedo to see how
the Spanish felt about English and Russian aggressions.
Explorations were pushed far to the north, and landings
were made at Nutka and elsewhere, and formal possession
taken. April 14, 1789, in an order to Gigedo, the King
informed him of the protest he had lodged with Russia
" stating therein that the subjects of that power should
not found establishments on our northern coasts of the
Californias."

Trouble was made with the English for landing at
Nutka, two vessels being seized and taken as prisoners to
San Bias. These were ultimately set at liberty, and after
considerable negotiations between the courts of Spain and
England, the King of Spain by royal letter, dated May
12, 1791, ordered that Nutka should be transferred to the
English. It was at this transfer that Vancouver, the Eng-
lish captain, insisted that the boundary between Spanish
and English possessions on the California coast should be
the port of San Francisco. On reference of the matter,
however, to higher authority, the bounds were settled more
in accord with the claims of the Spanish. In spite of this

30 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

dogged insistence of Vancouver he was well treated by the
officials at Monterey, and Gigedo reports:

" He expressed to me in writing heartfelt thanks, and in proof
of his gratitude, made a gift, of the value of two thousand dol-
lars, more or less, to the ' presidio ' and mission of Monterey in
implements useful for agriculture and timber cutting, beads and
other small articles."

One other matter of geographical importance it is as
well to understand at this point. Knowledge of the North-
west was still so imperfect that therein lay one great secret
of the fears of the Spanish. They deemed it possible that
a strait or passage between the Atlantic and Pacific might
yet be found, and that if this were to be discovered by some
foreign and hostile power it would place the New Mexico
Colonies and Missions as well as those of California in
jeopardy. In 1793, Viceroy Gigedo, in making his most
useful, interesting, and exhaustive report, fully discusses
this matter.

When the Columbia River's mouth was discovered it was
thought that it was possibly the entrance to the channel
which connected the two oceans. He urged the necessity
for exploring it ; for, said he :

" If this river should be the passage between the two oceans,
then we would have acquired all necessary information about
the volume of water it carries, the rapidity or slowness of the
current, the Indian tribes either nomadic or stable which live on
its banks, and the place more or less accessible, where the river
empties into the Atlantic."

But with practical common sense Gigedo discounte-
nanced the further extension of territory without reason,
and, in summing up the results of what the various
explorations had accomplished, says that " during the
period of twenty-five years many millions of dollars have
been expended in establishing and maintaining the new

Plate VII

• • I

m I

is
z

■
■

THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS 31

settlements of Upper California ; in repeated explorations
of its northern coasts ; and in the occupation of Nutka."

The same month in which Palou dedicated the Northern
Mission, found Serra, with Padre Gregorio Amurrio and
ten soldiers, wending their way from San Diego to San
Juan Capistrano, the foundation of which had been
delayed the year previous by the San Diego massacre.
They disinterred the bells and other buried materials and
without delay founded the Mission. With his customary
zeal, Serra caused the bells to be hung and sounded, and
said the dedicatory mass on November 1, 1776. The origi-
nal location of this Mission, named by the Indians Sajirit,
was approximately the site of the present church, whose
pathetic ruins speak eloquently of the frightful earthquake
which later destroyed it.

Aroused by a letter from Viceroy Bucareli, Rivera
hastened the establishment of the eighth Mission. A place
was found near the Guadalupe River, where the Indians
named Tares had four rancherias, which they called
Thamien. Here Padre Tomas de la Pena planted the
cross, erected an enramada, or brush shelter, and on Jan-
uary 12, 1777, said mass, dedicating the new Mission to
the Virgin, Santa Clara, one of the early converts of
Francis of Assisi.

On February 3, 1777, the new Governor of Alta Califor-
nia, Felipe de Neve, arrived at Monterey and superseded
Rivera. He quickly established the pueblo of San Jose,
and, a year or two later, Los Angeles, the latter under the
long title of the pueblo of " Nuestra Senora, reina de los
Angeles," — Our Lady, Queen of the Angels.

32 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

Yumas, on the site of what is now the United States
Indian School, and were well received by a local chief
named Palma. The order for the establishment of Mis-
sions at this point was ultimately given by General Croix,
on March 20, 1780. With fateful stubbornness this man,
unfamiliar with the dangerous conditions, ordered the
introduction of a system of management altogether differ-
ent from that which obtained elsewhere. Indians and
Spaniards were to live promiscuously in the pueblo. There
was to be no distinct mission for the former, and the
priests were given no temporal control over their converts.
Indeed, it was to be a modern town, where colonists and
natives should live in proximity, with the priests as pas-
tors and teachers, under a kind of semi-military govern-
ment. The pueblo was named " La Purisima Concepcion,"
and was situated on the California side, where the Indian
school now stands. Garces and Barreneche were its mis-
sionaries. A little later, San Pedro y San Pablo de Bicuner
was established, some eight or ten miles farther down the
river, on the California side. These were ill-fated estab-
lishments, unfortunate experiments in colonization, des-
tined to offer sad proofs of the determination of the
Yumas, shown even to-day, not to yield anything of their
belief to others. They were the scenes of pathetic pre-
parations for martyrdom, and finally rude and terrible
butcheries. Priests, settlers, soldiers, and Governor Rivera
himself perished in the terrific attack. Forty-six men met
an awful fate, and the women were left to a slavery more
frightful than death. This was the last attempt made
by the Spaniards to missionize the Yumas.

With these sad events in mind the Fathers founded San
Buenaventura on March 31, 1782. Serra himself preached
the dedicatory sermon. The Indians came from their pic-
turesque conical huts of tule and straw, to watch the
raising of the Cross, and the gathering at this dedication
was larger than at any previous ceremony in California ;

THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS 33

more than seventy Spaniards with their families, together
with large numbers of Indians, being there assembled.

The next month, the presidio of Santa Barbara was
established, and later the Mission of the same name.

In the end of 1783, Serra visited all the southern Mis-
sions to administer confirmation to the neophytes, and in
January, 1784, he returned to San Carlos at Monterey.
Then he visited the two northern Missions of Santa Clara
and San Francisco, returning home in June. His last days
were saddened by the death of his beloved friend and
brother, Crcspi, and embittered by contests with the mili-
tary authorities for what he deemed the right. His last
act was to walk to the door, in order that he might look
out upon the beautiful face of Nature. The ocean, the
sky, the trees, the valley with its wealth of verdure, the
birds, the flowers — all gave joy to his weary eyes. Re-
turning to his bed, he " fell asleep," and his work on earth
ended. He was buried by his friend Palou at his beloved
Mission in the Carmelo Valley, and there his dust now
rests.

His successor as the president of the Missions was Fer-
min Francisco Lasuen, who, at the time of his appointment,
was the priest in charge at San Diego. He was elected by
the directorate of the Franciscan College of San Fernando,
in the City of Mexico, February 6, 1785, and on March 13,
1787, the Sacred Congregation at Rome confirmed his
appointment, according to him the same right of confir-
mation which Serra had exercised. In five years this Father
confirmed no less than ten thousand, one hundred thirty-
nine persons.

Santa Barbara was the next Mission to be founded.

For awhile it seemed that it would be located at Montecito,

now the beautiful and picturesque suburb of its larger

sister ; but President Lasuen doubtless chose the site the

Mission now occupies. Well up on the foothills of the

Sierra Santa Ines, it has a commanding view of valley,

34 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

ocean, and islands beyond. Indeed, for outlook, it is doubt-
ful if any other Mission equals it. It was formally dedi-
cated on December 4, 1786.

Various obstacles to the establishment of Santa Barbara
had been placed in the way of the priests. Governor Fages
wished to curtail their authority, and sought to make inno-
vations which the Padres regarded as detrimental in the
highest degree to the Indians, as well as annoying and
humiliating to themselves. This was the reason of the
long delay in founding Santa Barbara. It was the same
with the following Mission. It had long been decided upon.
Its site was selected. The natives called it Algsacupi.
It was to be dedicated " to the most pure and sacred
mystery of the Immaculate Conception of the most Holy
Virgin Mary, Mother of God, Queen of Heaven, Queen of
Angels, and Our Lady " : a name usually, however,
shortened in common parlance to " La Purisima Concep-
cion." On December 8, 1787, Lasuen blessed the site,
raised the Cross, said mass and preached a sermon ; but
it was not until March, 1788, that work on the buildings
was begun. An adobe structure, roofed with tiles, was
completed in 1802, and, ten years later, destroyed by
earthquake.

The next Mission founded by Lasuen was that of Santa
Cruz. On crossing the coast range from Santa Clara, he
thus wrote : " I found in the site the most excellent fitness
which had been reported to me. I found, beside, a stream
of water, very near, copious, and important. On August
28, the day of Saint Augustine, I said mass, and raised a
cross on the spot where the establishment is to be. Many
gentiles came, old and young, of both sexes, and showed
that they would gladly enlist under the Sacred Standard.
Thanks be to God ! " *

On Sunday, September 25, Sugert, an Indian chief of
the neighborhood, assured by the priests and soldiers that
no harm should come to him or his people by the noise of

Plate VIII

.,-- . i

■ s

THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS 35

exploding gunpowder, came to the formal founding. Mass
was said, a Te Deum chanted, and Don Hermencgildo
Sol, Commandant of San Francisco, took possession of
the place, thus completing the foundation. To-day noth-
ing but a memory remains of the Mission of the Holy

Cross.

Lasuen's third Mission was founded in this same year,
1791. He had chosen a site, called by the Indians Chut-
tusgelis, and always known to the Spaniards as Soledad,
since their first occupation of the country. Here, on
October 9, Lasuen, accompanied by Padres Si jar and
Garcia, in the presence of Lieutenant Jose Argiiello, the
guard, and a few natives, raised the Cross, blessed the site,
said mass, and formally established the Mission of " Nues-
tra Senora de la Soledad."

One interesting entry in the Mission books is worthy
of mention. In September, 1787, two vessels belonging to
the newly founded United States sailed from Boston. The
smaller of these was the " Lady Washington," under com-
mand of Captain Gray. In the Soledad Mission register
of baptisms, it is written that on May 19, 1793, there was
baptised a Nootka Indian, twenty years of age, " Inquina,
son of a gentile father, named Taguasmiki, who in the
year 1789 was killed by the American Gret (undoubtedly
Gray), Captain of the vessel called Washington, belonging
to the Congress of Boston."

For six years no new Missions were founded: then, in
1797, four were established, and one in 1798. These, long
contemplated, were delayed for a variety of reasons. It
was the purpose of the Fathers to have the new Missions
farther inland than those already established, that they
might reach more of the natives : those who lived in the
valleys and on the slopes of the foothills. Besides this, it
had always been the intent of the Spanish government that
further explorations of the interior country should take
place, that, as the Missions became strong enough to sup-

36 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

port themselves, the Indians there might be brought under
the influence of the Church. Neve's Regulations say :

" It is made imperative to increase the number of Reductions
(stations for converting the Indians) in proportion to the vast-
ness of the country occupied, and although this must be carried
out in the succession and order aforesaid, as fast as the older
establishments shall be fully secure, etc.," and earlier, "while
the breadth of the country is unknown (it) is presumed to be as
great as the length, or greater (200 leagues), since its greatest
breadth is counted by thousands of leagues."

On this subj ect Von Langsdorff in his " Voyages," pub-
lished in London in 1814, says:

" Every year military expeditions are sent out to obtain a
more exact knowledge of the interior of the country, with a view,
if possible, of establishing, by degrees, a land communication
between Santa Fe and the northwest coast of America. While
I was at the Mission of St. Joseph, thirteen soldiers, with a Ser-
jeant and corporal, arrived there on their return from one of
these expeditions. These people asserted that they had pene-
trated between eighty and ninety leagues into the country, and
had arrived in the neighborhood of a high and widely extended
chain of hills, covered with eternal snow; this chain is known
to the Spaniards under the name of the Sierra Nevada, or Snowy
Mountains. The river, or rivers of St. Francisco and another
stream which flows into the sea near St. Michael, must have
their sources in these mountains.

Individuals, inhabitants of the Sierra Nevada, affirm, that three
or four days journey eastward of this chain, they have seen men
with blue and red clothing, who entirely resembled the Spaniards
of California; they were very probably soldiers of Santa Fe, who
had been sent on a similar expedition from the Eastern coast, to
examine the interior of the country westwards.

According to this information, the Spaniards, between the
thirty-fifth and thirty-eighth degrees of latitude on the dif-
ferent sides of the continent, must have come pretty near to
each other ; a probability is thus afforded, that, in time, a regular
inland communication may be established between Santa Fe and
St. Francisco."

THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS 37

Further on he states that one of these expeditions was
fitted out for travel to the Sierra Nevada during their
stay. The Padre, Jose Uria, went " partly in the hope of
engaging fresh converts, partly for the purpose of gaining
a more extensive knowledge of the interior, with a view to
establish a new Mission, from which he expected great
advantages to be derived."

In spite of the fact recorded by LangsdorfF, however,
I think it must generally be conceded that the priests in
California were more active as local pastors than as ex-
plorers. They were not possessed of the spirit that ani-
mated Kino and Garces. Had the latter been in charge
in California, it is hard to believe that he would not have
known more of the interior country, even had he been
forced to make the explorations alone.

Various investigations were made by the nearest priests
in order to select the best locations for the proposed Mis-
sions, and, in 1796, Lasuen reported the results to the new
Governor, Borica, who in turn communicated them to the
Viceroy in Mexico. Approval was given and orders issued
for the establishment of the five new Missions.

On June 9, 1797, Lasuen left San Francisco for the
founding of the Mission San Jose, then called the Alameda.
The following day, a brush church was erected, and, on the
morrow, the usual foundation ceremonies occurred. The
natives named the site Oroysom. Beautifully situated on
the foothills, with a prominent peak near by, it offers an
extensive view over the southern portion of the San Fran-
cisco bay region. At first, a wooden structure with a
grass roof served as a church ; but later a brick structure
was erected, which Von LangsdorfF visited in 1806.

It seems singular to us at this date that although the
easiest means of communication between the Missions of
Santa Clara, San Jose and San Francisco, was by water
on the Bay of San Francisco, the Padre and soldiers at
San Francisco had no boat or vessel of any kind. Langs-

38 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

dorff says of this : " Perhaps the missionaries are afraid
lest if there were boats, they might facilitate the escape of
the Indians, who never wholly lose their love of freedom
and their attachment to their native habits ; they there-
fore consider it better to confine their communication with
one another to the means afforded by the land. The
Spaniards, as well as their nurslings, the Indians, are very
seldom under the necessity of trusting themselves to the
waves, and if such a necessity occur, they make a kind of
boat for the occasion, of straw, reeds, and rushes, bound
together so closely as to be watertight. In this way they
contrive to go very easily from one shore to the other.
Boats of this kind are called walza by the Spanish. The
oars consist of a thin, long pole somewhat broader at each
end, with which the occupants row sometimes on one side,
sometimes on the other."

For the next Mission two sites were suggested; but, as
early as June 17, Corporal Ballesteros erected a church,
missionary-house, granary, and guard-house at the point
called by the natives Popeloutchom, and by the Spaniards,
San Benito. Eight days later, Lasuen, aided by Padre
Catala and Martiarena, founded the Mission dedicated to
the saint of that day, San Juan Bautista.

Next in order, between the two Missions of San Antonio
de Padua and San Luis Obispo, was that of " the most
glorious prince of the heavenly militia," San Miguel.
Lasuen, aided by Sitjar, in the presence of a large number
of Indians, performed the ceremony in the usual form, on
July 25, 1797. This Mission eventually grew to large
proportions. In a subsequent chapter, dealing with the
interiors of the Mission churches, a detailed description of
the interior of San Miguel will be given ; since it remains
to-day almost exactly as decorated by the hands of the
original artists.

San Fernando Rey was next established, on September 8,
by Lasuen, aided by Padre Dumetz.

Plate IX

. -- -

• ^3T^

• * , - i .

ALTAR IN MORTUARY CHAPEL, SAX LUIS RKY

1605

THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS 39

After extended correspondence between Lasuen and Gov-
ernor Borica, a site, called by the natives Tacayme, was
finally chosen for locating the next Mission, which was to
bear the name of San Luis, Rey de Francia. Thus it
became necessary to distinguish between the two saints of
the same name: San Luis, Bishop (Obispo), and San Luis,
King ; but modern American parlance has eliminated the
comma, and they are respectively San Luis Obispo and
San Luis Rey. Lasuen, with the honored Padre Peyri
and Padre Santiago, conducted the ceremonies on June 13,
and the hearts of all concerned were made glad by the
subsequent baptism of fifty-four children.

It was as an adjunct to this Mission that Padre Peyri, in
1816, founded the chapel of San Antonio de Pala, twenty
miles east from San Luis Rey : to which place were removed
the Palatingwas, or Agua Calientes, recently evicted from
Warner's Ranch. This chapel has the picturesque cam-
panile, or small detached belfry, the pictures of which are
known throughout the world.

With the founding of San Luis Rey this branch of the
work of President Lasuen terminated. Bancroft regards
him as a greater man than Serra, and one whose life and
work entitle him to the highest praise. He died at San
Carlos on June 26, 1803, and was buried by the side of
Serra.

Estevan Tapis now became president of the Missions,
and under his direction was founded the nineteenth Mission,
that of Santa Ines, virgin and martyr. Tapis himself
conducted the ceremonies, preaching a sermon to a large
congregation, including Commandant Carrillo, on Sep-
tember 17, 1804.

With Lasuen, the Mission work of California reached its
maximum power. Under his immediate successors it began
to decline. Doubtless the fact that the original chain was
completed, was an influence in the decrease of activity. For
thirteen years there was no extension. A few minor at-

40 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

tempts were made to explore the interior country, and many
of the names now used for rivers and locations in the San
Joaquin Valley were given at this time. Nothing further,
however, was done, until in 1817, when such a wide-spread
mortality affected the Indians at the San Francisco Mis-
sion, that Governor Sola suggested that the afflicted neo-
phytes be removed to a new and healthful location on the
north shore of the San Francisco bay. A few were taken
to what is now San Rafael, and while some recovered,
many died. These latter, not having received the last rites
of their religion, were subjects of great solicitude on the
part of some of the priests, and, at last, Father Taboada,
who had formerly been the priest at La Purisima Concep-
cion, consented to take charge of this branch Mission.
The native name of the site was Nanaguani. On Decem-
ber 14, Padre Sarria, assisted by several other priests,
conducted the ceremony of dedication to San Rafael Arc-
angel. It was originally intended to be an asistencia of
San Francisco, but although there is no record that it was
ever formally raised to the dignity of an independent Mis-
sion, it is called and enumerated as such from the year
1823 in all the reports of the Fathers. To-day, not a brick
of its walls remains ; the only evidence of its existence
being the few old pear trees planted early in its history.

There are those who contend that San Rafael was
founded as a direct check to the southward aggressions of
the Russians, who in 1812 had established Fort Ross but
sixty-five miles north of San Francisco. There seems,
however, to be no recorded authority for this belief, al-
though it may easily be understood how anxious this close
proximity of the Russians made the Spanish authorities.

They had further causes of anxiety. The complica-
tions between Mexico and Spain, which culminated in the
independence of the former, and then the establishment
of the Empire, gave the leaders enough to occupy their
minds.

THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS 41

The final establishment took place in 1823, without any
idea of founding a new Mission. The change to San Rafael
had been so beneficial to the sick Indians that Canon Fer-
nandez, Prefect Payeras, and Governor Argiicllo decided
to transfer bodily the Mission of San Francisco from the
peninsula to the mainland north of the bay, and make San
Rafael dependent upon it. An exploring expedition was
sent out which somewhat carefully examined the whole
neighborhood and finally reported in favor of the Sonoma
Valley. The report being accepted, on July 4, 1823, a
cross was set up and blessed on the site, which was named
New San Francisco.

Padre Altimira, one of the explorers, now wrote to the
padre presidente — Senan — explaining what he had done,
and his reasons for so doing; stating that San Francisco
could no longer exist, and that San Rafael was unable to
subsist alone. Discussion followed, and Sarrfa, the suc-
cessor of Senan, who had died, refused to authorize the
change ; expressing himself astonished at the audacity
of those who had dared to take so important a step with-
out consulting the supreme government. Then Altimira,
infuriated, wrote to the Governor, who had been a party
to the proposed removal, concluding his tirade by saying:
" I came to convert gentiles and to establish new missions,
and if I cannot do it here, which, as we all agree, is the
best spot in California for the purpose, I will leave the
country."

Governor Argiiello assisted his priestly friend as far as
he was able, and apprised Sarria that he would sustain
the new establishment ; although he would withdraw the
order for the suppression of San Rafael. A compromise
was then effected by which New San Francisco was to
remain a Mission in regular standing, but neither San
Rafael nor old San Francisco were to be disturbed.

Is it not an inspiring subject for speculation? Where
would the modern city of San Francisco be, if the irate

42 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

Father and plotting politicians of those early days had
been successful in their schemes?

The new Mission, all controversy being settled, was for-
mally dedicated on Passion Sunday, April 4, 1824, by
Altimira, to San Francisco Solano, " the great apostle to
the Indies." There were now two San Franciscos, de Asis
and Solano, and because of the inconvenience arising from
this confusion, the popular names, Dolores and Solano,
and later, Sonoma, came into use.

From the point now reached, the history of the Missions
is one of distress, anxiety, and final disaster. Their great
work was practically ended.

Before entering upon the history of each Mission in
detail it is well to recapitulate the list of Missions estab-
lished and the jurisdiction to which each one belonged.
As has been shown, a presidio was established for the
military guardianship of the Missions. Each presidio
was responsible for all the Missions and pueblos under its
jurisdiction as follows:

Jurisdiction of San Diego.

Presidio of San Diego ; Mission of San Gabriel ; Mission of
San Juan Capistrano ; Mission of San Diego ; Mission of San
Luis Rey.

Jurisdiction of Santa Barbara.

Presidio of Santa Barbara; Mission of La Purisima ; Mission
of Santa Ines ; Mission of Santa Barbara ; Mission of Buena-
ventura ; Mission of San Fernando ; Pueblo of La Reyna de Los
Angeles.

Jurisdiction of Monterey.

Presidio of Monterey ; Village of Branciforte ; Mission of San
Juan Bautista ; Mission of San Carlos ; Mission of Nuestra
Sencra de Soledad ; Mission of San Antonio ; Mission of San
Miguel ; Mission of San Luis Obispo.

Plate X

a. SANTA BARBARA MISSION

b. SANTA CLARA MISSION IN Hli)

.Astor.l

1905 //

THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS 43

Jurisdiction of San Francisco.

Presidio of San Francisco ; Pueblo of San Jose de Guadalupe ;
Mission of San Francisco Solano ; Mission of San Rafael ; Mission
of San Francisco ; Mission of San^a Clara ; Mission of San Jose ;
Mission of Santa Cruz.

44 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER II

JUNIPERO SERRA AND HIS COADJUTORS

TO the indomitable energy of Galvez, the California
Missions owed much, but his work was largely
initial. It required the steady, patient, constant
labors of men on the ground, to see that the plans so care-
fully formulated were carried out. From St. Francis
down, the chief aim of the members of his order has been
to help mankind. Other men might work for honor or
glory or fame or riches or power, but their highest en-
deavor was to " go about doing good." Self-renunciation,
a prodigality of giving of one's self for others, were the
chief means of salvation to them. Not alone by praying in
a cell, doing penance, and reciting prayers were their souls
to be saved, but by yielding to the Spirit of the Divine One
of whom one of His persecutors cried : " He saved others,
Himself he cannot save." Oh i for more of this divine un-
selfishness in those who stand as the ambassadors of God.
What the world needs is men who will spend themselves
freely to benefit others. Life, example, unselfish work are
more effective than preaching, and many more hearts have
been reached by the devotion of a sister of charity to the
needy sick than by the eloquence of a cardinal.

Francis of Assisi believed this with all his soul. The
order that bears his name has always been more or less
full of the same spirit. In Junipero Serra St. Francis
had a worthy son and follower. All through life he was
simple, single-hearted, enthusiastic, a firm believer in Holy
Church, with never a doubt as to its mission, and with a
practical turn to his mind that was bound to make a sue-

SERRA AND HIS COADJUTORS 45

cess of everything he undertook. A firm believer in mir-
acles, yet he knew how to plan for a long campaign of
hard work with little result ; like a child in dealing with
Indians, yet hard-headed enough to circumvent the plot-
tings of indifferent and selfish politicians. This was the
man chosen by his college of San Fernando, in the City of
Mexico, to carry out the plans of Galvez for the christian-
izing of the aborigines of the new country of California.

He was born on the 24th of November, 1713, at Petra,
in the Island of Majorca. His parents were devout catho-
lics, and the boy being of the gentle, obedient, naturally
good kind, it was borne in upon them that he was espe-
cially fitted to be a priest ; therefore they early sent him
to Palma, the capital, there to be under the wise and
benign influences of a priest of the cathedral. This devout
man so led the impressionable mind of the lad that when
he was seventeen years old he applied to the Franciscan
Convent to be allowed to enter, and on the 14th of Sep-
tember, 1730, he made his profession as a novitiate. Dur-
ing the year of his probation he was peculiarly attracted
to the lives of the missionaries to the Indians. Something
in the abandon of enthusiasm with which these men gave
up all the world holds dear for the salvation of the souls
of these poor savages so appealed to the large-eyed, gentle-
hearted, earnest-souled youth that, then and there, his vo-
cation for life was settled. It is a remarkable proof of
the power of the printed word over the very inmost soul
of an ardent and impressionable youth.

On the 15th of September, 1731, he took his final vows
and assumed the name of Junipero, out of love for the
jovial and pure-hearted companion of St. Francis; he of
whom the saint once said, " O that I had a forest of such
junipers." Here was another sapling just growing in
one of the nurseries he had established that was to lead
other fervent souls to a like remark.

Before his profession Junipero writes that he was small

46 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

and somewhat puny, but now he Immediately sprang up,
broadened out, and became well and strong. Sent to an-
other college to study philosophy and theology, he worked
so diligently that he was soon made a professor, and
received the degree of Doctor of Divinity. He began to
preach also, and the simple-minded fervor of such an
implicit believer, who was yet so learned, combined with
the clear-headed way he had of looking at things, soon
brought him great fame as a pulpit orator. As a teacher
he was equally successful. Indeed the pathway of fame
and honor was clearly before him. He had but to open
the door himself, and enter it. The Church of Rome has
never been niggardly in its gifts to its able sons, and here
was one who soon could have had pretty nearly all he
might have asked. Yet he wilfully and willingly turned
away from the shining pathway, and begged to be sent
away to a dark and unknown road, where trials, diffi-
culties, dangers, and possible death awaited him. He
longed to be a missionary to the heathen. The theology
of Dante was a real, terrible, absorbing truth to him.
Only to such a belief was such work as his possible. Hell,
with its dire circles of horror and terror for those who
were unbelievers in the Christ he worshipped, yawned be-
fore the feet of these untamed and rude natives. If they
should be trained into a knowledge of the Church and its
saving ordinances by an apostolic guide, they could attain
a new hereafter. Purgatory was open, and from thence,
duly purged from their sin and ignorance, they might
climb into the blessed regions of Paradise. Felicity untold,
then, to that man who would brave their savagery, dare
their treachery, love them even in their unlovableness, and
thus lead them into the fold of the Church.

Who should do it? Should he, Serra, with his soul
athirst for great deeds, full of bravery and heroism, stand
by, in order to listen to the applause of the civilized world
as his words of burning eloquence pleased cultured ears,

SERRA AND HIS COADJUTORS 47

and let some half-hearted, half-in-earnest priest go out
to these degraded savages? No! The greater their need
and danger, the greater the necessity for speed, power,
and earnestness in the one who should go to them. So,
begging to be allowed to leave the world and its vain
applause, society and its caresses, civilization and its lux-
urious comforts, casting all these things behind him, he
gladly, joyfully, and yet seriously requested his superiors
to allow him to go as a missionary.

" Narrow," some may say he was ! " His theological
conceptions crude and bigoted!" So were Dante's, but
that did not prevent him from giving the Divine Comedy
to the world. And Milton, too, cannot be designated as
" broad," yet Paradise Lost will live when many of the
valueless expressions of these days have sunken into the
" backward of time " and been forgotten.

During his college days his close companions were Palou,
Verges, Crespi, and Vincens, who were all more or less
dominated by the spirit of Serra, and when, finally, the
authorities allowed him to join a band of missionaries that
was gathering at Cadiz, ready to go to Mexico, Palou,
without hesitation, set out with him. And when, at Cadiz,
he learned that three of those who were there desired to
withdraw he blessed God for the opportunity and imme-
diately begged for his other three companions to be sent
in their place. This was granted, and the five, after a
fearfully hard voyage of ninety-nine days, in which they
were reduced to great straits for want of water, arrived
at Vera Cruz. On the. voyage Serra's boundless devotion
and enthusiasm would not let him rest. He recited the
mass daily and spent long hours in the night hearing
confessions. He took the scarcity of water as a training
for the future, and naively remarked when asked if he did
not suffer with thirst : " Not specially, since I have found
out the secret of not feeling thirsty, which is, to eat little
and talk less, so as not to waste the saliva."

48 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

Another proof of his determination to harden himself
for his chosen work is given in the fact that he refused
to avail himself of the transportation provided from Vera
Cruz to the City of Mexico, but asked to be allowed to
walk. When permission was given, he and a companion,
without provisions or guide, started forth on that tramp
of a hundred leagues, relying solely upon Providence and
the goodness of the people whom they should meet. It
was such simple devotion combined with practical good
sense that developed the man. I say practical good sense
— not common-sense, for this and that are quite different.
Here was a man preparing himself for hardships that he
might have to undergo mvoluntarily, by voluntarily enter-
ing into them. He was putting himself into training, just
as an athlete does for a test of strength, and therein lay
his practical good sense. He was educating himself, by
overcoming obstacles now, to bravely and fearlessly meet
the obstacles he knew he might expect in later life.

It was on the last day of 1749 that he gratefully
rendered thanks for his safe journey at the altar of Our
Lady of Guadalupe, and the next morning, New Year's
Day, 1750, he entered the portals of the College of San
Fernando, of which he was ultimately to become the most
famous and honored son.

To recount his life for the next seventeen years is to
tell of work well and devoutly performed, a Mission suc-
cessfully conducted for several years among the Indians
of the Sierra Gorda, and others elsewhere, in places diffi-
cult of access ; a veritable apostle wherever he went. He
was appointed to the Missions then being founded on the
San Saba, in Texas, but for some reason could not go,
and those who were sent in his stead were brutally mur-
dered. The coincidence seems like a special providence.
God had important work for him to do and was just
" saving his light to spend."

And when the expulsion of the Jesuits occurred, then

<^/o ^ cm Otoutyimonios,

dii

JOl

TITLE-PAGE OJ? MARRIAGE REGISTER OF SAN LUIS OBI-I".
IN PRESIDENT SERRA'S HANDWRITING

SERRA AND HIS COADJUTORS 49

was the time. God unclasped His hand and let his " glow-
worm " out to give light to those who needed it. Serra
was at once chosen by the college authorities to take
charge of the Lower California Missions, and, as we have
seen, he and Galvez got along so well together, that Serra
started for the new California with his good wishes and
promises of material assistance. It is not to be wondered
at that, when his superior handed him his commission,
tears prevented any reply. Here was a larger fulfilment
of his hopes than he had ever dared to expect. To minister
was to be blessed; but to minister himself and to be able
to call upon others to minister where he could not go, —
this was to multiply himself many times, and it was bliss
indeed.

Serra's life in California is largely the record of its
early history, and this has been set forth, with as large
degree of fulness as space allowed, in the pages of this
book. He died at San Carlos, August 28, 1784, and was
buried in the Mission he loved so well, in the beautiful
Carmelo Valley.

Palou now became the president, pro tempore, in obedi-
ence to the expressed wish of his brother friars, and yet
in the records not a single act of his as president can be
found. He was a fellow student with Serra and Crespi,
and they remained warm friends through life. When
Serra left the peninsula to take charge of the organiza-
tion of the Missions of Alta California, Palou was given
the official care of the Missions, and he it was who handed
them over finally to the Dominicans when the partition
was made. This was in May, 1773. By the end of August
he was in San Diego and a little later in Monterey, and
when Serra went to Mexico, Palou was acting president in
his absence. At the time of Serra's death Palou was con-
templating retiring to the seclusion of his convent of San
Fernando in the City of Mexico. He remained, however,
mainly engaged in writing his " Life of Serra," until Lasuen

50 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

received his appointment in September, 1785. In Febru-
ary, 1786, he reached Mexico, and July 18 he was elected
its guardian. It is supposed that he died before 1790,
though there is some uncertainty in the matter, which later
research will doubtless clear up.

Undoubtedly the worthy successor to Serra's mantle
was Padre Fermin Francisco de Lasuen, born in Vitoria,
Spain, and who, as one of Serra's co-workers in the pen-
insula went up to Velicata in March, 1769, to bless Ri-
vera's expedition as it started for the founding of San
Diego. His first work in Alta California was at San
Gabriel, where he served from December, 1773, to Sep-
tember, 1775. The next year he served at San Juan Cap-
istrano, and then at San Diego until 1785, when he was
elected president. When he died, June 16, 1803, he had
been thirty years a missionary in California, and for
eighteen years president of the Missions. Of an entirely
different type of man from the stern, ascetic Serra, he
was yet as full of piety, zeal, earnestness, and purity of
life, and the Missions prospered under his guidance.

On account of the long distance, both in miles and time,
from Mexico, the College of San Fernando deemed it wise
to elect a provisional president, whose duty it should be
to assume the office in case of the absence, incapacitation,
or death of the incumbent. In 1798 Estevan Tapis was
furnished with the necessary document as provisional presi-
dent, and at Lasuen's death he immediately assumed the
office. Three times he was appointed, though he did not
deem himself fitted for the office, and finally, in 1812,
when relieved, he retired to Santa Lies, where he performed
the ordinary duties of a missionary. In 1815 he was sent
to San Juan Bautista, where he died and was buried
in 1825.

At Tapis's retirement in 1812 Jose Senan was elected
to the office. Fie resided at San Buenaventura, where he
had been the missionary. In 1815 he resigned, and in

SERRA AND HIS COADJUTORS 51

1823 died at his old Mission. At the same time that he
was appointed, however, a new and superior office was
created, that of comisario prefecto. He was the prelate,
as it were, of the Franciscans in California, and had
supreme control of all temporal affah's. Sarria was
elected to this office, and he and Senan worked harmoni-
ously together. At the end of six years Sarria resigned.

In 1815 Mariano Payeras was elected president, and he
exercised the office in conjunction with Sarria, as prefect,
until the resignation of the latter, when, on advices from
his college, he assumed the duties of president as they
were exercised by Serra and Lasuen. In 1819 the position
was changed again, and Payeras was raised to the posi-
tion of prefect, while Senan was again elected president.

Payeras died April 28, 1823, at his Mission of Purisima,
and Senan, who had been appointed by Payeras to succeed
him in the higher office, also died August 24 of the same
year at San Buenaventura.

Sarria was named prefect by Senan, and held both
offices, on account of the refusal of the duly elected presi-
dent to accept the office.

In 1825, as Sarria refused to take the oath of allegiance
to the newly constituted republic of Mexico, Narcisco
Duran was required to assume the duties of the presi-
dency, though he also refused the Oath. But Sarria con-
tinued to perform his official duties, his arrest being merely
nominal.

In 1827 Jose Bernardo Sanchez was elected president
and served until 1831, when Duran again assumed the
office.

In 1833 ten new friars of the Zacatecas College of
Franciscans came to take the places of the old mission-
aries, and it was decided to give them charge of all the
Missions north of San Carlos. The College of San Fer-
nando being composed entirely of Spaniards, and they
having been banished from Mexico, the friars of a Mexi-

52 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

can college were thus called upon to supply the Missions
of California with the needed padres. They brought their
own prefect with them, in the person of Francisco Garcia
Diego, who, later, became the first bishop of California.
Duran's authority was confined, after the coming of Diego,
to the Missions south of San Antonio.

With secularization practically came the abolishment of
both offices, prefect and president, and since that time the
Church has been governed in the usual way.

One thing is seldom remembered by the generality of
writers upon the Missions, and that is that all the Padre
presidentes were functionaries of the Spanish Inquisition.
Serra, Lasuen, Tapis, Sarria, and Payeras were all in-
quisitors. But in this, as in everything else, it is per-
sonality that shows, when men are not urged on by the
cries of a mob. As there was no hue and cry in Cali-
fornia, and the hearts of the padres were humane, we
have the record of but one case that ever came to trial.
That was of a Spanish settler in Los Angeles, named
Ramon Sotilo, who was accused of " having expressed
views on religion that not even a Protestant would dare
hold." The prosecutor asked that as a punishment " he
be kept in jail some weeks and receive daily instruction
from the Mission priest." This sentence was passed upon
the culprit, but in a few days he escaped from jail, and
no more was ever heard of either him or his case.

Plate Ml

INDIANS AT THE COMING OF THE PADRES 53

CHAPTER III

THE INDIANS AT THE COMING OF THE PADRES

IT is generally believed that the California Indian in
his original condition was one of the most miserable
and wretched of the world's aborigines. As one
writer puts it:

" When discovered by the padres he was almost naked, half
starved, living in filthy little hovels built of tule, speaking a
meagre language broken up into as many different and inde-
pendent dialects as there were tribes, having no laws and few
definite customs, cruel, simple, lazy, and — in one word which
best describes such a condition of existence — wretched. There
are some forms of savage life that we can admire ; there are
others that can only excite our disgust ; of the latter were the
California Indians."

This is the general attitude taken by most writers of
this later day, as well as of the padres themselves, yet I
think I shall be able to show that in some regards it is
a mistaken one. I do not believe the Indians were the
degraded and brutal creatures the padres and others have
endeavored to make out. This is no charge of bad faith
against these writers. It is merely a criticism of their
judgment. Twenty-five years of acquaintance and fre-
quent association with the Indians of Nevada, California,
and the Southwest have demonstrated several important
things. Indians, like other people, are not to be judged
by the clothes they wear, or do not wear. Exterior ap-
pearances are by no means to be relied upon any more
than when Thomas Carlyle wrote his " Sartor Resartus."

54 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

It is the instinctive habit of the missionary to record, as
of chief importance, the evil, degrading, and hideous things
that strike him in the character of those to whom he comes
to minister. Who has not recognized this in listening to
the stories of returned missionaries from India and Africa ?

" Where every prospect pleases,
And only man is vile. "

It has ever been the same. To the conquered Britons
the Vikings were hideous sea-rovers. To the Latins the
Goths and Vandals were void of all human traits. Yet
history has revealed many wonderfully excellent things
alike in Viking, Goth, and Vandal. The Moors overran
Spain, and were terrible creatures to those whom they
subjugated, yet they left an architecture and an influence
which have come down to us and are now coloring the lives
of our citizens on the shores of the Sun-down Sea. Every-
thing depends upon the angle of vision at which things
are seen. In the case of the subjugated European peoples
the angle was oblique ; and equally so was it, I believe, in
the case of those who have judged the Indians of California.

The fact that in a few years the Indians became re-
markably competent in so many fields of skilled labor is the
best answer to the unfounded charges of abject savagery.
Peoples are not civilized nor educated in a day. Brains
cannot be put into a monkey, no matter how well educated
his teacher is. There must have been the mental quality,
the ability to learn ; or even the miraculous patience, per-
severance, and love of the missionaries would not have
availed to teach them, in several hundred years, much less,
then, in the half-century they had them under their con-
trol, the many things we know they learned.

The Indians, prior to the coming of the padres, were
skilled in some arts, as the making of pottery, basketry,
canoes, stone axes, arrow heads, spear heads, stone knives,
and the like. Holder says of the inhabitants of Santa

INDIANS AT THE COMING OF THE PADRES 53

Catalina that although their implements were of stone,
wood, or shell " the skill with which they modelled and
made their weapons, mortars, and steatite ollas, their rude
mosaics of abalone shells, and their manufacture of pipes,
medicine-tubes, and flutes give them high rank among
savages." The mortars found throughout California,
some of which arc now to be seen in the museums of
Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, San Diego, etc., are models
in shape and finish. As for their basketry, I have else-
where * shown that it alone stamps them as an artistic,
mechanically skilful, and mathematically inclined people,
and the study of their designs and their meanings reveals
a love of nature, poetry, sentiment, and religion that put
them upon a superior plane. Because people live on food
that we do not eat, that is no evidence of barbarism. To
the Englishman the frog-eating of the Frenchman was
long a source of offence — the stupid insularity of the
one deeming it a sign of inferiority in the other. Now
he imitates his brother across the channel in this very
particular, and glories in his epicurean taste. So with
China. The rudest and most ignorant sailor that ever left
the shores of a pride-besotted people can sneer at the
civilization of thousands of years in Hindoo, Buddhist, or
Chinaman because of some racial difference in diet, totally
incompetent to see that his own habits are immeasurably
more disgusting and revolting than the ones he criticises.
Cabrillo was the first white man whom we know visited
the Indians of the coast of California. He made Ins
memorable journey in 1542-3. In 1539, Ulloa sailed up
the Gulf of California, and, a year later, Alarcon and
Diaz explored the Colorado River, possibly to the point
where Yuma now stands. These three men came in con-
tact with the Cocopahs and the Yumas, and possibly with
other tribes.

1 Indian Basketry, especially the chapters on Form, Poetry, and
Symbolism.

56 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

Cabrillo tells of the Indians with whom he held commu-
nication. They were timid, and somewhat hostile at first,
but easily appeased. Some of them, especially those living
on the islands (now known as San Clemente, Santa Cata-
lina, Anacapa, Santa Barbara, Santa Rosa, San Miguel,
and Santa Cruz), were superior to those found inland.
They rowed in pine canoes having a seating capacity of
twelve or thirteen men, and were expert fishermen. They
dressed in the skins of animals, were rude agriculturists,
and built for themselves shelters or huts of willows, tules,
and mud.

Vizcaino, who " rediscovered " the country in 1602,
wrote a letter to the King of Spain, dated May 23, 1603,
in which he thus speaks of the Indians:

" This land has a genial climate, its waters are good, and it is
very fertile, to judge from the varied and luxuriant growth of
trees and plants ; for I saw some of the fruits, particularly
chestnuts and acorns, which are larger than those of Spain.
And it is thickly settled with people whom I found to be of
gentle disposition, peaceable and docile, and who can be brought
readily within the fold of the Holy Gospel and into subjection
to the crown of Your Majesty. Their food consists of seeds,
which they have in abundance and variety, and of the flesh of
game : such as bears, bisons, and deer, which are larger than
cows, and of neat cattle, and many other animals. The Indians
are of good stature and fair complexion, the women being some-
what smaller in size than the men, and of pleasing countenance.
The clothing of the people of the coast-lands consists of the
skins of the sea-wolves abounding there, which they tan and
dress better than is done in Castile ; they possess, also, in great
quantity, flax like that of Castile, hemp and cotton, from which
they make fishing-lines and nets for rabbits and hares. They
have vessels of pine wood very well made, which, having fourteen
paddlemen at a side, they navigate with great dexterity, even in
very stormy weather. I was informed by them and many others
whom I met in great numbers along more than eight hundred
leagues of a thickly settled coast, that inland there are great
communities, which they invited me to visit with them."

INDIANS AT THE COMING OF THE PADRES 57

Padre Salmeron says of the aboriginal inhabitants of
Santa Catalina:

" They are fishermen, using boats of boards ; the prows and
poops high, and the middle very low. Some will hold more
than twenty persons. There are many sea-lions, the which these
Indians hunt for food ; and with the tanned skins they all cover
themselves, men and women, and it is their usual protection.
The women are very handsome and decent. The children are
white and ruddy and very smiling. Of these Indians, many
wished to come with the Spaniards ; they are so loving as all
this."

In 1770 Don Miguel Costanso tells of the craftsmen
of the California Indians in their aboriginal condition.
He says:

" The men work handsome trays of wood, with firm inlays of
coral or of bone ; and some vases of much capacity, closing at
the mouth, which appear to be made with a lathe — and with
this machine they would not come out better hollowed nor of
more perfect form. They give the whole a lustre which appears
the finished handiwork of a skilled Artisan."

He says further :

"The dexterity and skill of these Indians is surpassing in the
construction of their Launches made of Pine planking (tublazon).
They are from eight to ten varas (22 to 27| feet) in length, in-
cluding their rake, and of a vara and half (4 feet l£ inches)
beam. Into their fabric enters no iron whatever, of the use of
which they know little. But they fasten the boards with firm-
ness, one to another, working their drills just so far apart and at
a distance of an inch from the edge, the (holes) in the upper
boards corresponding with those in the lower, and thro' these
holes they pass strong lashings of Deer sinews. They pitch and
calk the seams, and paint the whole in sightly colors. They
handle the (boats) with equal cleverness, and three or four men
go out to the open sea to fish in them, as they have capacity to
carry eight or ten. They use long oars with two blades, and

58 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

row with unspeakable lightness and velocity. They know all
the arts of fishing, and Fish abound along their Coasts, as has
been said of San Diego. They have communication and Com-
merce with the Natives of the Islands, whence they get the
beads of coral which are current in place of money thro' all these
Lands ; altho' they hold in more esteem the glass beads which
the Spaniai-ds gave them — and offered in exchange for these
whatever they had, like trays, Otter skins, baskets, and wooden
plates. More than anything they appreciate whatsoever clasp-
knife (navaja) or cutting instrument ; whose advantages over
the (implements) of flint they admire ; it causing them much
satisfaction to see use made of the axes and machetes, and the
facility with which the soldiers, to make firewood, felled a
Tree with the said Instruments."

Padre Crespi's testimony is also useful. In telling of
the land expedition which led to the discovery of the Bay
of San Francisco he thus writes of the Indians:

" It was observed that the Indians along that coast had larger
tents than common among the natives, and that each family
lived in a separate hut. From Santa Barbara the explorers
passed through Santa Clara canyon, where there are now so
many splendid farm-homes. The dwellings of the then inhabi-
tants were made of a few poles stuck in the ground, forming a
semicircle, brought together in a conical shape, with bundles of
sage brush thrown over, leaving an opening at the top which
served to permit the escape of smoke and to let in the air and
light. Near San Buenaventura they found the Indians more in-
dustrious and athletic, and the women better clad. They
cleverly made well shaped canoes of pine, and all their work
was well finished. Some of their fishing boats would hold ten
men ; they would go out to sea some distance, and showed
great dexterity in managing very long oars. To work out the
timber and stone they used only tools made of flint, being
ignorant of the use of iron and steel. They readily exchanged
highly polished wooden plates for a few trinkets."

The principal written source of authority for our
knowledge of the Indians at the time of the arrival of

INDIANS AT THE COMING OF THE PADRES 59

the Fathers is Fray Geronimo Boscana's " Chinigchinich :
A Historical Account, etc., of the Indians of San Juan
Capistrano." There are many interesting things in this
account, some of importance, and others of very slight value.
He insists that there was a great difference in the intelli-
gence of the natives north of Santa Barbara and those to
the south in favor of the former. Of these he says they
" are much more industrious, and appear an entirely dis-
tinct race. They formed, from shells, a kind of money,
which passed current among them, and they constructed
out of logs very swift and excellent canoes for fishing."

Of the character of his Indians he had a very poor idea.
He compares them to monkeys who imitate, and especially
in their copying the ways of the white men, " whom they
respect as beings much superior to themselves ; but in so
doing, they are careful to select vice in preference to vir-
tue. This is the result, undoubtedly, of their corrupt and
natural disposition."

Of the language of the California Indians Boscana says
there was great diversity, finding a new dialect almost
every fifteen to twenty leagues.

They were not remarkably industrious, yet the men
made their home utensils, bows and arrows, the several
instruments used in making baskets, and also constructed
nets, spinning the thread from yucca fibres, which they
beat and prepared for that purpose. They also built the
houses.

The women gathered seeds, prepared them, and did the
cooking, as well as all the household duties. They made
the baskets, all other utensils being made by the men.

The dress of the men, when they dressed at all, was
with the skin of animals thrown over the shoulders, leav-
ing the rest of the body exposed, but the women wore a
cloak and dress of twisted rabbit-skins. I have found
these same rabbit-skin dresses in use by Mohaves and
Yumas within the past three or four years.

60 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

It has often been said that the men could not grow
beards. The truth is that they plucked out the hairs one
by one, using a bivalve shell as pincers. To-day many of
the men allow the beard to grow. Some have a thinner
beard, a condition which is doubtless owing, the Indians
believe, to the long-continued practice of plucking out the
hairs.

Men and women alike used various colored pigments on
their faces. Red, yellow, and blue were the principal
colors chosen, and to-day, at their festivals, one may see
these Indians decorated in exactly the same fashion that
their ancestors have followed for centuries.

The youths were required to keep away from the fire,
in order that they might learn to suffer with bravery and
courage. They were forbidden also to eat certain kinds
of foods, to teach them to bear deprivation and to learn
to control their appetites. In addition to this there were
certain ceremonies which included fasting, abstinence from
drinking, and the production of hallucinations by means
of a vegetable drug, called pivat (still used, by the way,
by some of the Indians of Southern California), and the
final branding of the neophyte, which Boscana describes as
follows : " A kind of herb was pounded until it became
sponge-like ; this they placed, according to the figure re-
quired, upon the spot intended to be burnt, which was
generally upon the right arm, and sometimes upon the
thick part of the leg also. They then set fire to it, and
let it remain until all that was combustible was consumed.
Consequently, a large blister immediately formed, and
although painful, they used no remedy to cure it, but left
it to heal itself; and thus, a large and perpetual scar
remained. The reason alleged for this ceremony was that
it added greater strength to the nerves, and gave a better
pulse for the management of the bow." This ceremony
was called potense.

Another infliction was required of them that recalls the

INDIANS AT THE COMING OF THE PADRES 61

descriptions Frank H. dishing gave of the initiation cere-
monies of the Zunis :

"They were whipped with nettles, and covered with ants,
that they might become robust, and the infliction was always
performed in summer, during the months of July and August,
when the nettle was in its most fiery state. They gathered
small bunches, which they fastened together, and the poor de-
luded Indian was chastised, by inflicting blows with them upon
his naked limbs, until unable to walk ; and then he was carried
to the nest of the nearest and most furious species of ants, and
laid down among them, while some of his friends, with sticks,
kept annoying the insects to make them still more violent."

The education of the girls was by no means neglected.

" They were taught to remain at home, and not to roam about
in idleness ; to be always employed in some domestic duty, so
that, when they were older, they might know how to work, and
attend to their household duties ; such as procuring seeds, and
cleaning them — making "atole" and "pinole," which are kinds
of gruel, and their daily food. When quite young, they have
a small, shallow basket, called by the natives "tucmel," with
which they learn the way to clean the seeds, and they are also in-
structed in grinding, and preparing the same for consumption."

When a girl was married her father gave her good
advice as to her conduct. She must be faithful to her
wifely duties and do nothing to disgrace either her hus-
band or her parents. Children of tender years were some-
times betrothed by their parents. Padre Boscana says he
married a couple, the girl having been but eight or nine
months old, and the boy two years when they were con-
tracted for by their parents.

Childbirth was natural and easy with them, as it gen-
erally is with all primitive peoples. I have known an
Indian woman to give birth to a child, walk half a mile to
a stream, step into it and wash both herself and the new-
born babe, then return to her camp, put her child in a

62 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

yakia, or basket cradle-carrier, sling it over her back, and
start on a four or five mile journey, on foot, up the rocky
and steep sides of a canyon.

A singular custom prevailed among these people, not
uncommon elsewhere. The men, when their wives were
suffering their accouchement, would abstain from all flesh
and fish, refrain from smoking and all diversions, and stay
within the Kish, or hut, from fifteen to twenty days.

The god of the San Juan Indians was Chinigchinich,
and it is possible, from similarity in the ways of appear-
ing and disappearing, that he is the monster Tauquitch
of the Sabobas and Cahuillas described in The Legend of
Tauquitch and Algoot.1 This god was a queer compound
of goodness and evil, who taught them all the rites and
ceremonies that they afterwards observed.

Many of the men and a few women posed as possessing
supernatural powers — witches, in fact, and such was the
belief in their power that, " without resistance, all im-
mediately acquiesced in their demands." They also had
physicians who used cold water, plasters of herbs, whip-
ping with nettles (doubtless the principle of the counter
irritant), the smoke of certain plants, and incantations,
with a great deal of general, all-around humbug to pro-
duce their cures. I have found the same things to-day
among the Cahuillas, these people calling their medicine
men " ting'-i-vash." Boscana thus tells of methods of
treatment, all of which I have seen pursued:

"They placed feathers upon his head, and encircled him
entirely with these, and other articles, such as horse-hair, grass,
beads, and hairs of the head ; blowing at the same time with
their mouths towards the four cardinal points, and muttering to
themselves certain low sounds — certain mysterious words —
accompanied with antic gesticulations, of which no one knew
the meaning. After this, one of them applied his lips to the

1 See Folk Lore Journal, October 1903.

Plate XIII

■^
>

THE

NEW Y0.7K \\
'PUBLIC LI:

^ Astor, Lenox and T;:,, .,
Four dafkms.
1805 ^/

INDIANS AT THE COMING OF THE PADRES 63

part affected, and pretended to draw from it, by suction, the
particles, which they had stated as being within, and exposed
them to all present. The spectators, as well as the patient,
placed strict confidence in the fact, and were satisfied whether
he recovered or died.

There were many of these impostors spread about the country,
who, after being well fed and paid for their services, made all
manner of ridicule of their too credulous companions. Wonder-
ful as it may appear, oftentimes they performed cures, when the
patients were apparently fast verging into eternity, and in the
space of twenty-four hours, by their extravagances and witch-
craft, they have enabled them to rise from a bed of Sickness, and
unite with their companions in their domestic employments."

If this were the only testimony upon the subject of the
medicine of the Indians we could do no other than form
a very poor idea of their methods, but, fortunately, we
have expert testimony from an entirely impartial author-
ity, who, besides extolling their temescals, or sweat-baths,
their surgical abilities, as displayed in the operations that
were performed upon skulls that have since been exhumed,
their hygienic customs, which he declares " are not only
commendable, but worthy of the consideration of an ad-
vanced civilization," states further:

" It has been reserved for the California Indian to furnish
three of the most valuable vegetable additions which have been
made to the Pharmacopoeia during the last twenty years. One,
the Eriodyction Glutinosum, growing profusely in our foothills,
was used by them in affections of the respiratoiy tract, and its
worth was so appreciated by the Missionaries as to be named
Yerba Santa, or Holy Plant. The second, the Rhamnus pursh-
iana, gathered now for the market in the upper portions of the
State, is found scattered through the timbered mountains of
Southern California. It was used as a laxative, and on account
of the constipating effect of an acorn diet, was doubtless in active
demand. So highly was it esteemed by the followers of the
Cross that it was christened Casyara Sagrada, or Sacred Bark.
The third, Grindelia robusta, was used in the treatment of

64 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

pulmonary troubles, and externally in poisoning from Rhus
toxicodendron, or Poison Oak, and in various skin diseases."

Their food was of the crudest and simplest character.
Whatever they could catch they ate, from deer or bear to
grasshoppers, lizards, rats, and snakes. In baskets of
their own manufacture, they gathered all kinds of wild
seeds, and after using a rude process of threshing, they
winnowed them. They also gathered mesquite beans in
large quantities; burying them in pits for a month or
two, in order to extract from them certain disagreeable
flavors, and then storing them in large and rudely made
willow granaries. But, as Dr. Cephas L. Bard well says :

" Of the Vegetable articles of diet the acorn was the principal
one. It was deprived of its bitter taste by grinding, running
through sieves made of interwoven grasses, and frequent wash-
ings. Another one was Chia, the seeds of Salvia Columbariae
which in appearance are somewhat similar to birdseed. They
were roasted, ground, and used as a food by being mixed with
water. Thus prepared, it soon develops into a mucilaginous
mass, larger than its original bulk. Its taste is somewhat like
that of linseed meal. It is exceedingly nutritious, and was
readily borne by the stomach when that organ refused to
tolerate other aliment. An atole, or gruel, of this was one of
the peace offerings to the first visiting sailors. One tablespoon-
ful of these seeds was sufficient to sustain for twenty-four hours
an Indian on a forced march. Chia was no less prized by the
Native Californian, and at this late date it frequently commands
$6 or $8 a pound.

"The pinion, the fruit of the pine, was largely used, and
until now annual expeditions are made by the few surviving
members of the coast tribes to the mountains for a supply.
That they cultivated maize in certain localities, there can be but
little doubt. They intimated to Cabrillo by signs that such was
the case, and the supposition is confirmed by the presence at
various points of vestiges of irrigating ditches. Yslay, the fruit
of the wild cherry, was used as a food, and prepared by fermenta-
tion as an intoxicant. The seeds ground and made into balls

INDIANS AT THE COMING OF THE PADRES 65

were esteemed highly. The fruit of the manzanita, the seeds of
burr clover, malva, and alfileri, were also used. Tunas, the fruit
of the cactus, and wild blackberries, existed in abundance, and
were much relished. A sugar was extracted from a certain reed
of the tulares."

Acorns, seeds, mesquite beans, and dried meat were all
pounded up in a well made granite mortar, on the top of
which, oftentimes, a basket hopper was fixed by means of
pine gum. Some of these mortars were hewn from steatite,
or soapstone, others from a rough basic rock, and many
of them were exceedingly well made and finely shaped;
results requiring much patience and no small artistic skill.
Oftentimes these mortars were made from the solid granite
rocks or boulders, found near the harvesting and winnow-
ing places, and I have photographed many such during
late years.

Birds were caught in a most ingenious manner. One
method was shown to me by an Indian on the Tule River
reservation a few years ago. With semicircular arches
of willow, a hiding-place was made, the hoops being cov-
ered with leafy brush or weeds. In this the Indian hid
himself, after having prepared a bare spot outside his
shelter, and upon which he sprinkled a liberal supply of
seeds. In his hand he held a long pole, at the upper end
of which was affixed a strong but small string; the other
end being threaded through loops affixed to the pole. The
pole was then thrust out among the seeds, the string being
formed into a loop. Then, imitating the call of the birds,
it was not long before doves, quail, or other game were
attracted to the place, and, seeing the seeds, alighted.
In their hopping to and fro, some of them invariably
stepped into the noose. Quickly the watching Indian
pulled the string tight, and, as quietly as possible, drew
back the snared bird into his shelter. Wringing its neck,
the Indian thrust forth the pole, and again continued the
operation, until sufficient game was secured.

66 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

At times there were special foods for men and special
foods for women. For instance, a hunter ate the lea's of
a rabbit or a deer, with the idea that thereby he would gain
the speed displayed by these animals. He ate the heart
of the mountain lion, that he might be as fearless as the
wild beast itself. In eating snakes, the Indian desired and
expected the gliding and noiseless quality of the reptile to
become a part of himself. Women refused to eat salt
lest it turn their hair gray ; and a nursing mother took
a decoction of the root of milk-weed, in order to promote
lacteal secretions.

Most effective testimony to the healthfulness and mod-
eration of their habits is given by Dr. Bard when he thus
refers to their longevity :

" That they possessed as' a race greater longevity than their
successors, there remains no doubt. The great majority of skulls
examined are indicative of very advanced age, the cranial sutures
being entirely consolidated, with no vestiges of their existence.
The records of the Missions furnish many instances of death at
extreme old age. Those of San Buenaventura give the ages of
three Indian women buried there as, respectively, 100, 105, and
114 years. Father Martinez, in charge of the Mission of San
Miguel, shortly after its foundation, wrote that it possessed three
Indian women each of whom was more than 100 years old. The
records of the other Missions reveal the presence now and in the
past of numerous Indian centenarians. The ages of Fernando
and Placido, who died at Los Angeles, were estimated at 102
and 137. The latter danced at a fandango a short time prior
to his decease. Justiniano Roxas, who died at Santa Cruz in
1878, was baptized at that Mission in 1792, and his age then was
put down by the officiating padre as about forty. Within the
last few years there have died in Kern county four Indians,
each of whom was undoubtedly over 100 years old. They were
Canillo (Alcalde of Tejon), Alfonso, Rafael, and Francisco. They
helped to build the Mission of San Fernando. An Indian named
Gabriel died in Monterey some time ago who was reported to
have been 140 years of age. Dr. Remondino, in a paper read
before the State Society in 1890, gives some interesting experi-

Plate XIV

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THE
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Astor, Lencx and
1905

INDIANS AT THE COMING OF THE PADRES 67

ences of prolonged savage life in San Diego county. At the
Mission of San Tomas there lived an old Indian 1 40 years old. On
the Sweetwater was an Indian man 115 years old, and one died at
the county seat 109 years old. At Capitan Grande were several In-
dian women over 100 years old. Warner's ranch furnishes one
130 years of age. The present chief of the almost extinct local
trihe at San Buenaventura, Juan de Jesus, is an active old cen-
tenarian, who can be seen on the streets every day. As an evidence
of his virility it may be said that the last of his series of squaws
presented him ten years ago with twin papooses. Dr. Ferguson
of Bakersfield informs me that an old Indian named Sebastian
lives there who at the age 90 rides forty to fifty miles a day."

Throughout the country the Indians have left quite a
number of picture writings. One of the most noted groups
of these is found east of the San Marcos pass, about
sixteen miles northwest of Santa Barbara. Owing to color
having been used, and the pictographs being located in
a cave, the location is known as the Painted Cave. The
pictographs are in red, white, yellow, and black, and
show crosses, conventionalized forms of the sun, human
figures, circular designs, snake-like figures, tree-forms,
centipedes, etc.

Possibly these pictographs had something to do with
their early worship, but as far as I know, no endeavor
was ever made to find out from the Indians themselves.
In matters pertaining to their inner thought they are
always exceedingly reticent. This is one secret of the
vast amount of error and misunderstanding that has
passed current as fact concerning them.

Few men have known the Indian more sympathetically
than John Comfort Fillmore, the great authority on ab-
original music, and in the following words he expresses
my own thought so much better on this subject than I
can that I quote him in full:

" Of course there are serious difficulties in the way of acquir-
ing this knowledge. The Indian is always suspicious of the

68 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

white man, until his confidence has been completely won. He
is always expecting his white visitor to look on his religious
ideas and feelings, not with respect and sympathy, but with
more or less of contempt. ' You will not believe me,' said a
Sioux priest to a friend of mine who was his guest at the great
Sun-dance, ' but I pray to God, and I am answered.' ' Cer-
tainly,' was the reply, ' why not ? ' The priest looked surprised
and said : " But your people think my people are dogs ! '
Whoever would study the Indian must absolutely divest him-
self of all feeling of superiority of any kind, and think of his
red brethen simply as men like himself, differing, to be sure, in
their bringing-up and in their inherited ideas, but as well-
intentioned and living up to the light they have quite as well,
on the average, as the men of his own race. If he can show
himself brotherly and sympathetic he will, sooner or later, over-
come the natural suspicion with which the Indian at first
regards him, and then the way is open for an intelligent com-
prehension of the Indian character."

The religion of these tribes was very simple. It was
a rude kind of Nature worship with personified divini-
ties ; some of whom were undoubted human heroes pos-
sessing mythical histories. In the " Journal of American
Folk-Lore " for October, 1903, I have related the story
of one of these demigods, Algoot by name, who slew a
cannibal monster, Tauquitch, and who still terrorizes the
superstitious Indians of the region about Mount San
Jacinto.

Their ceremonies consisted of smoking the propitiatory
pipe — the ascending smoke typifying the ascent of their
prayers to Those Above — dancing, praying, and singing.
Dancing always attracted the attention of the gods, and,
having their interest thus aroused, they could not fail to
pay heed to the petitions presented to them.

As a specimen of the beliefs of the old aborigines, here
is part of a story once told to me by an aged Saboba
Indian. After describing the coming of his people to
Southern California, from some far-away land over the

INDIANS AT THE COMING OF THE PADRES 69

sea, and the varied adventures of these heroes, he
continued :

" But when Siwash, the god of earth, looked around and saw
everything revealed hy the sun, he was displeased ; for the
earth was bare, level, and monotonous, and there was nothing to
cheer the sight. Who could love a world that was all one limit-
less plain, with no mountains, no trees, hills, rocks, rivers, water-
falls, creeks, animals, reptiles, no birds, nor flowers ? There
were many of our people that were of no use. So Siwash took
these, and of some he made high mountains, of some, smaller
mountains ; of others he made rivers, creeks, lakes, and water-
falls ; of still others coyotes, foxes, deer, antelope, bear, squirrels,
porcupines, and all the other animals. Then he made out of
other people all the different kinds of snakes, insects, birds, and
fishes. Then he wanted trees, plants, and flowers, and so he
turned some of the people into these. Of every man or woman
that he seized, he made something according to the person's
value.

" When he finished his work, he had made a beautiful country of
this, and there were many things that my people had never seen
before. But he had used up so many men and women that he
was frightened. So he made a new lot of people, some to live
here, there, and anywhere. And he gave to each family its own
language and tongue, and its own place to live, and he told them
all the sad distress that would come upon them if they mingled
their tongues by intermarriage. Each family was to live in its
own place, and while all the different families were to be friends,
one to the other, and live as brothers bound together by kinship
and concord, there was to be no mixing of bloods.

" Thus were settled the original inhabitants on the coast of
Southern California by Siwash, the god of the earth, under the
leadership of Uuyot."

These Indians were polygamists, as a matter of course,
but much of what the missionaries and others have called
their obscenities and vile conversations were the simple
and unconscious utterances of men and women whose in-
stincts were not perverted. It is the invariable testimony
of all careful observers of every class that as a rule the

70 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

aborigines were healthy, vigorous, virile, and chaste, until
they became demoralized by the whites. With many of
them certain ceremonies had a distinct flavor of sex wor-
ship: a rude phallicism which exists to the present day.
To the priests, as to most modern observers, these rites
were offensive and obscene, but to the Indians they were
only the natural and simple prayers for the fruitfulness
of their wives and of the other producing forces.
J. S. Hittell says of the Indians of California :

" They had no religion, no conception of a deity, or of a future
life, no idols, no form of worship, no priests, no philosophical
conceptions, no historical traditions, no proverbs, no mode of
recording thought before the coming of the missionaries among
them."

Seldom has there been so much absolute misstatement as
in this quotation. Jeremiah Curtin, the translator of
Sienkiewicz and a life-long student of the Indian, speaking
of the same Indians, makes a remark which applies with
force to these first three statements :

" The Indian, at every step, stood face to face with divinity as
he knew or understood it. He coidd never escape from the
presence of those powers who had made the first world. . . .
The most important question of all in Indian life was communi-
cation with divinity, intercourse with the spirits of divine per-
sonages."

In his " Creation Myths of Primitive America," this
studious author gives the names of a number of divinities,
and the legends connected with them. He affirms positively
that " the most striking thing in all savage belief is the
low estimate put upon man, when unaided by divine, un-
created power. In Indian belief every object in the universe
is divine except man ! "

As to their having no priests, no forms of worship, no
philosophical conceptions, no historical traditions, no prov-
erbs, any one interested in the Indian of to-day knows

INDIANS AT THE COMING OF THE PADRES 71

that these things are untrue. Whence came all the myths
and legends that recent writers have gathered, a score of
which I myself hold still unpublished in my note-book?
Were they all imagined after the arrival of the Mission
Fathers? By no means! They have been handed down
for countless centuries, and they come to us, perhaps a
little corrupted, but still just as accurate as do the songs
of Homer.

Every tribe had its medicine men, who were developed
by a most rigorous series of tests ; such as would dismay
many a white man. As to their philosophical conceptions
and traditions, Curtin well says that in them " we have
a monument of thought which is absolutely unequalled,
altogether unique in human experience. The special value
of this thought lies, moreover, in the fact that it is prim-
itive ; that it is the thought of ages long anterior to those
which we find recorded in the eastern hemisphere, either in
sacred books, in histories, or in literature, whether pre-
served on baked brick, burnt cylinders, or papyrus."

And if we go to the Pueblo Indians, the Navahoes, the
Pimas, and others, all of whom were brought more or less
under the influence of the Franciscans, we find a mass of
beliefs, deities, traditions, conceptions, and proverbs, which
would overpower Mr. Hittell merely to collate.

Therefore, let it be distinctly understood that the In-
dian was not the thoughtless, unimaginative, irreligious,
brutal savage which he is too often represented to be.
He thought, and thought well, but still originally. He
was religious, profoundly and powerfully so, but in his
own way ; he was a philosopher, but not according to
Hittell ; he was a worshipper, but not after the method
of Serra, Palou, and their priestly coadjutors.

72 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER IV

THE INDIANS UNDER THE PADRES

THE first consideration of the padres in dealing
with the Indians was the salvation of their souls.
Of this no honest and honorable man can hold
any question. Serra and his coadjutors believed, without
equivocation or reserve, the doctrines of the Church. As
one reads Serra's diary, his thought on this matter is trans-
parent. In one place he thus naively writes : " It seemed
to me that they (the Indians) would fall shortly into the
apostolic and evangelic net."

This accomplished, the Indians must be kept Christians,
educated and civilized. Here is the crucial point. In
reading criticisms upon the Mission system of dealing
with the Indians one constantly meets with such passages
as the following : " The fatal defect of this whole Spanish
system was that no effort was made to educate the Indians,
or teach them to read, and think, and act for themselves."

To me this kind of criticism is both unjust and puerile.
What is education? What is civilization?

All civilization is comparative ; all happiness relative.
The highest civilization, and, therefore, the most laudable
object of ambition to one, is a burden and weariness of the
flesh to another. And no thinker will deny that it is an
exceedingly difficult matter for the objects of one kind of
civilization to look with any but superior, haughty, and
critical eyes upon the objects of every other civilization. It
is only since the Congress of Religions in Chicago that the
Western world has learned to look with rational eyes, and
a little more tolerance, upon the civilization, thought, and

THE INDIANS UNDER THE PADRES 73

religious life of the Orient. Hence, in dealing with this
question of the condition of the Indians under the padres,
we are met with widely differing opinions and standards.
Without discussing the religious question — for all ex-
perience demonstrates that no reasoning or argument will
remove sectarian prejudices — let us consider the matter
of the education of the Indians. What is education?
The teaching of the "three r's " and of various ologies?
God forbid ! There are more foolish things done to-day
in the enlightened and civilized United States of America
under the name of " education " than the Catholic mis-
sionaries in all the centuries have ever done. My defini-
tion of education is a common-sense one, according to my
view of life. To educate is to educere — draw out — the
recognition of what one should do and be in order to
make the best of his life. Religious education, among
other things, should give the inspiration of the will, the
resolution to do what one sees is best.

According to these definitions and the light and ex-
perience they possessed, the padres went to work. They
surveyed the ground to be covered, and made as good a
study of the Indian as conditions permitted. Then they
began at the bottom. They first taught the Indian how
to live ; how to wear clothes ; how to deserve eating and
clothing by working; and better still, how to raise and
manufacture what they needed. Certainly this was good,
viewed from any standpoint, and, anyhow, we have not
improved upon it, for it is just what our government with
all its boasted advancement is now doing for them. But
along with this the padres taught {what was really their
prime business), in accordance with their own belief, the
most necessary lessons of all, namely (and here I quote one
of them), "the knowledge of whence they came, whither
they were finally going, and what was most essential to
attain that end fixed by the Creator Himself." On this
portion of their work the padres knew, as we know, the

74 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

futility of expecting to find unanimity of opinion amongst
people who have ten thousand different shades of theo-
logical and untheological belief. Now, to quote from a
modern Franciscan missionary's recent letter to me : " The
fathers soon discovered that so much was all the Indians
could grasp, and all for which they could be led to take
an interest, just like unreasoning children who live but
for the present day. This was true education, which gave
the word its proper meaning. It was the only education
the Indians were capable of comprehending, and the only
kind the same Indians are capable of grasping even now,
as Uncle Sam has discovered at last. Book learning, ex-
cept the rudimentary, is not for the Indians (the major
portion of them) even at this date; and the United States
government is going back to the methods of the old Cath-
olic missionaries in their essential points. The fact is,
this kind of education is the most suitable for the gener-
ality of the white people. It would make them contented
and happy, whereas now they are being ' educated ' to an
unfitness for performing the ordinary duties of a simple
life.

" Nevertheless, the padres, despite the drawbacks of
having no suitable teachers, no suitable books, no suitable
material, such as are plentiful now, taught any of the
Indian boys, that showed any inclination, how to read and
write and figure, and many other useful things."

I believe this to be, from all the study I have given
the subject, a true statement of the facts. Hence I regard
the education given by the padres as eminently practical,
even though I materially differ from them as to some of
the things they regarded as religious essentials. Yet in
honor it must be said that if I, or the church to which I
belong, or you and the church to which you belong, reader,
had been in California in those early days, your religious
teaching or mine would have been entitled, justly, to as
much criticism and censure as have ever been visited upon

Plate XV

o
z
<i

>— •
<

o
o

THE
NEW YORK

ary'

Tilden

'•■'s.

THE INDIANS UNDER THE PADRES 75

that of the padres. They did the best they knew, and,
as I shall soon show, they did wonderfully well, far better
than the enlightened government to which we belong has
ever done. Certain essentials stood out before them.
These were, to see that the Indians were baptized, taught
the ritual of the Church, lived as near as possible accord-
ing to the rules laid down for them, attended the services
regularly, did their proper quota of work, were faithful
husbands and wives and dutiful children. Feeling that
they were indeed fathers of a race of children, the priests
required obedience and work, as the father of any well-
regulated American household does. And as a rule these
" children," though occasionally rebellious, were willingly
obedient.

Under this regime it is unquestionably true that the
lot of the Indians was immeasurably improved from that
of their aboriginal condition. They were kept in a state
of reasonable cleanliness, were well clothed, were taught
and required to do useful work, learned many new and
helpful arts, and were instructed in the elemental matters
of the Catholic faith. All these things were a direct
advance.

It should not be overlooked, however, that the Spanish
government provided skilled laborers from Spain or Mex-
ico, and paid their hire, for the purpose of aiding the
settlers in the various pueblos that were established.
Master mechanics, carpenters, blacksmiths, and stone
masons are mentioned in Governor Neve's Rules and Reg-
ulations, and, as I show elsewhere, some of the Indians were
taught by these skilled artisans. Under the guidance of
the padres some of them were taught how to weave.
Cotton was both grown and imported, and all the pro-
cesses of converting it, and wool also, into cloth were under-
taken with skill and knowledge.

At San Juan Capistrano the swing and thud of the
loom were constantly heard, there having been at one time

76 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

as many as forty weavers all engaged at once in this
useful occupation.

San Gabriel and San Luis Rey also had many expert
weavers.

Many women also became tailors and dressmakers. At
San Gabriel, under the administration of Padres Zalvidea
and Sanchez, there were four thousand Indians, all of
whom were clothed by the work of Indian women. Eula-
lia Perez de Guillen, the first owner of the Rancho San
Pasqual (the site of the modern Pasadena), taught the
spinning, weaving, and tailoring. She herself cut out
all the dresses and clothes, and then had general oversight
of the work.

It is interesting to look back and note that perhaps
the very first manual training attempted in California
was given by convicts. Governor Fages proposed to the
authorities that artisans imprisoned in Mexico and Guada-
lajara should have their sentences changed to exile to
California on condition that they worked at the presidios,
and on the expiration of their terms remained in the
country as settlers. There is record of three such men
being sent in 1791, and in that same year are references
to a convict blacksmith teaching his trade to the Indians
in San Francisco.

In the last decade of the century a decided and success-
ful effort was made to promote manufactures. Skilled
artisans were sent from Mexico under government pay
to teach various trades to the neophytes. Between 1792
and 1795 about twenty of these " manual-training "
teachers — themselves skilled artisans, came to California.
Here, then, was the beginning of technical schools in Cali-
fornia. The artisans were distributed among the presi-
dios and Missions, and some of them travelled to and fro
as occasion required. In 1793-4 several San Carlos In-
dians received expert instruction in stone-cutting, brick-
laying, etc. After 1795 the padres no longer had the

Plate \\ I

STONE ARCHED DOORWAY, SANTA MARGARITA CHAPEL

THE

PUBLIC LIBRARY1)
y.Astor, Lenox 2nd TnCM

Foui H; t^ns.
1900

THE INDIANS UNDER THE PADRES 77

services of the artisans free. They had to pay the mili-
tary officers for all work done, and if they retained the
services of the artisans for teaching the Indians they were
required to pay their salaries. On the other hand, if they
saw fit to send the Indians to the presidios they were
educated there free of charge. But as this removed them
from the moral control of the padres it was avoided as
much as possible. By 1800 this plan of education had
produced many good workmen, and the padres felt that
they were now far better able to get along than they had
been hitherto. Looms were set up at many of the Mis-
sions, and the wool sheared from the Mission sheep turned
into blankets and fabrics for their own clothing. In fact,
after 1797 no more blankets were brought from Mexico.
A little cotton was brought up from San Bias, and this
the Indians wove into cloth.

There is no definite record as to when grapes, oranges,
and other fruits were brought into California, but it is
possible they were all brought up by way of the peninsula
in the earliest of the expeditions (between 1769 and 1773),
as nearly all the varieties were in flourishing condition
before Padre Serra's death in 1786. Wine was manu-
factured in several of the southern Missions before 1785.

In 1795 a special attempt was made at San Jose to in-
troduce the cultivation of flax and hemp. After over-
coming the first difficulties, samples were later sent to
Mexico which gave satisfaction, and in 1800 it was deemed
promising enough to send Joaquin Sanchez to superintend
the industry in California.

At all the Missions the girls and women, as well as the
men, had their share in the general education. They had
always been seed gatherers, grinders, and preparers of
the food, and now they were taught the civilized methods
of doing these things. Many became tailors as well as
weavers ; others learned to dye the made fabrics, as in the
past they had dyed their basketry splints ; and still others

78 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

— indeed nearly all ■ — became skilled in the delicate arts
of lace-making and drawn-work. They were natural
adepts at fine embroidery, as soon as the use of the needle
and colored threads was shown them, and some exquisite
work is still preserved that they accomplished in tins field.
As candy-makers they soon became experts and manifested
judicious taste.

To return to the men. Many of them became cattle,
horse, and sheep herders, teamsters, and butchers. At
San Gabriel alone a hundred cattle were slaughtered every
Saturday as food for the Indians. The hides of all slain
animals were carefully preserved, and either tanned for
home use or shipped East. Dana in " Two Years Before
the Mast " gives interesting pictures of hide-shipping at
San Juan Capistrano. A good tanner is a skilled laborer,
and these Indians were not only expert makers of dressed
leather, but they tanned skins and peltries with the "hair
or fur on. Indeed I know of many wonderful birds'-skins,
dressed with the feathers on, that are still in perfect pres-
ervation. As workers in leather they have never been
surpassed. Many saddles, bridles, etc., were needed for
Mission use, and as the ranches grew in numbers they
created a large market. It must be remembered that
horseback-riding was the chief method of travel in Cali-
fornia for over a hundred years. Their carved-leather
work is still the wonder of the world. In the striking
character of their designs, in the remarkable adaptation
of the design, in its general shape and contour, to the
peculiar form of the object to be decorated, — a stirrup,
a saddle, a belt, etc., — and in the digital and manual
dexterity demanded by its execution it left nothing to be
desired. Equally skilful were they in taking the horn of
an ox or mountain sheep, heating it, and then shaping it
into a drinking-cup, a spoon, or a ladle, and carving upon
it designs that equal those found upon the pottery of the
ancient world.

Plate XVII

■ -' -'-'- '■

a. STREET AT PALATINGWA (HUT SPRINGS), WARNER'S RANCH

b. BASKET-MAKERS AT WORK AT PAI.ATI NGWA

THE

NEW YORK

PUBLIC LIBRARV

Astor, Lenox ana Tilden/
Fcui d
1905

THE INDIANS UNDER THE PADRES 79

Shoemaking was extensively carried on, for sale on the
ranches and to the trading-vessels. Tallow was tried out
by the ton and run into underground brick vaults, some of
which would hold in one mass several complete ship-loads.
This was quarried out and then hauled to San Pedro, or
the nearest port, for shipment. Sometimes it was run into
great bags made of hides, that would hold from five hun-
dred to a thousand pounds each, and then shipped.

A large amount of meat was cut into strips and jerked,
or sun-dried, either with or without salt, — for home use,
to sell, and to trade. The Indians taught this art to the
padres, and it is common among the Mexicans to this day.
A writer of November, 1818, says he remembers his mother
travelling in a carreta " which had two hides for a floor
and two more for a roof, where, after supping on half-
roasted strips of dried meat without salt, she gathered
around her the whole family."

Up to 1814 all the meal used in California was ground
by the women by their old-fashioned methods of metate
and meal-stone, but in that year Padre Zalvidea built the
first water-power grist-mill in the State. The next was
erected in 1839 in San Francisco. At San Gabriel the
Indians became the millers, making a coarse, unbolted meal
of wheat, corn, or barley. Then it was carried to the
storerooms where the women put it through a simple process
of sifting.

Soap was also made on a large scale, the ashes from the
brick and tile works, the bake-ovens, and tallow-furnaces,
being used to leach lye for the soap. At San Antonio, old,
rusty, and discarded, is an old soap-kettle that was once
capable of holding many gallons.

A large number of old-fashioned tallow-dip candles were

made for home use, and for sale to the ranches and vessels.

An amount of lumbering was carried on that, for those

days, was large. The Indians cut down the trees, trimmed

them, and brought the logs to where they were required.

80 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

They then hewed or split them with axes, or sawed them by
hand. Santa Anita Canyon, near Pasadena, is still, by the
old people, called Saw-pit Canyon, for in the early days
a saw-pit was established there; and Hugo Reid tells us
that every old Indian who was accused of witchcraft was
made a sawyer. These unfortunates were chained in couples
and compelled to work, two on the saw above and two below.
In 1810 or 1812, however, a water-power saw-mill was set
in operation by Padre Zalvidea at San Gabriel, and soon
the Indians did all the work there. Lumber was sawed for
buildings, fences, carts, wine-vats, cooperage, candle and
soap boxes, etc.

Many of them became expert carpenters, and a few even
might be classed as fair cabinet-makers, as the chapter on
woodwork will show. There were wheelwrights and cart-
makers who made the " carretas " that are now the joy of
the relic-hunter. These were clumsy ox-carts, with wheels
made of blocks, sawed or chopped off from the end of a
large round log, and then a big hole bored, chiselled, or
burned through its centre, enabling it to turn on a rude
wooden axle. Soap or tallow was sometimes used as a
lubricant. This was the only wheeled conveyance in Cali-
fornia as late as 1840. Other Indians did the woodwork
in buildings, made fences, etc. Some were carvers, and
there are not a few specimens of their work that will bear
comparison with the work of far more pretentious artisans.

Many of them became blacksmiths and learned to work
well in iron. In the Coronel Collection in the Los Angeles
Chamber of Commerce are many specimens of the ironwork
of the San Fernando neophytes. The work of this Mission
was long and favorably known as that of superior artisans.
The collection includes plough-points, anvils, bells, hoes,
chains, locks and keys, spurs, hinges, scissors, cattle-
brands, and other articles of use in the Mission communi-
ties. There are also fine specimens of hammered copper,
showing their ability in this branch of the craftsman's art.

THE INDIANS UNDER THE PADRES 81

As there was no coal at this time in California, these metal-
workers all became charcoal-burners.

Bricks of adobe and also burnt bricks and tiles were
made at every Mission, I believe, and in later years tiles
were made for sale for the houses of the more pretentious
inhabitants of the pueblos. As lime and cement were
needed, the Indians were taught how to burn the lime of
the country, and the cement work then done remains to this
day as solid as when it was first put down.

Many of them became expert bricklayers and stone-
masons and cutters, as such work as that found at San
Luis Rey, San Juan Capistrano, San Carlos, Santa Ines,
and other Missions most eloquently testifies.

It is claimed that much of the distemper painting upon
the church walls was done by the Indians, though surely
it would be far easier to believe that the Fathers did it
than they. For with their training in natural design, as
shown in their exquisite baskets, and the work they accom-
plished in leather carving, I do not hesitate to say that
the mural decorations would have been far more artistic
in design, more harmonious in color, and more skilfully
executed if the Indians had been left to their own native
ability.

A few became silversmiths, though none ever accom-
plished much in this line. They made better sandal-makers,
shoemakers, and hatters. As horse-trainers they were
speedily most efficient, the cunning of their minds finding
a natural outlet in gaining supremacy over the lower ani-
mal. They braided their own riatas from rawhide, and
soon surpassed their teachers in the use of them. They
were fearless hunters with them, often " roping " the moun-
tain lion and even going so far as to capture the dangerous
grizzly bears and bring them down from the mountains
for their bear and bull fights with no other " weapon." As
vaqueros, or cow-boys, they were a distinct class. As dar-
ing riders as the world has ever seen, they instinctively

82 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

knew the arts of herding cattle and sheep, and soon had
that whole field of work in their keeping. " H. H.," in
Ramona, has told what skilled sheep-shearers they were,
and there are Indian bands to-day in Southern California
whose services are eagerly sought at good wages because
of their thoroughness, skill, and rapidity.

Now, with this list of achievements, who shall say they
were not educated? Something more than lack of educa-
tion must be looked for as the reason for the degradation
and disappearance of the Indian, and in the next chapter
I think I can supply that missing reason.

At the end of sixty years, more than thirty thousand
Indian converts lodged in the Mission buildings, under the
direct and immediate guidance of the Fathers, performing
their allotted daily labors with cheerfulness and thorough-
ness. There were some exceptions necessarily, but in the
main the domination of the missionaries was complete. In
the years 1803-1807 G. H. von Langsdorff, Aulic Coun-
cillor to the Emperor of Russia, journeyed around the
world with Captain Krusenstern, the first Russian circum-
navigator. He visited the San Francisco and Santa Clara
Missions in March, 1806, and says : " The monks conduct
themselves in general with so much prudence, kindness, and
paternal care toward their converts, that peace, happi-
ness, and obedience universally prevail among them. . . .
There are seldom more than from three to five soldiers,
at a time, at any Mission, but this small number always
has been found sufficient to keep the Indians under proper
restraint."

Occasionally the priests went out in search of converts ;
over their breasts and shoulders then they wore a short
leathern mantle made of deer-skin. This was to protect
them against the arrows of hostile Indians, for " by a
royal command, the ecclesiastics must not carry about them
any other weapons than the Bible and the Cross."

Of the girls and widows, the same traveller says :

THE INDIANS UNDER THE PADRES 83

" They live in separate houses, and are kept at work under
lock and key ; they are only sometimes permitted by their
superiors to go out during the day, but never at night. As
soon, however, as a girl is married, she is free, and lives with
her husband in one of the villages of the Indians, called
ranclierias, which belong to the Mission. By such institutions,
the ecclesiastics hope to bind their converts more closely to
the establishment and to spread their religion more securely
and extensively. . . . The number of converted Indians at this
Mission is about twelve hundred."

It has often been asked, " What became of all the pro-
ceeds of the work of the Mission Indians? Did the padres
claim it personally? Was it sent to the mother house in
Mexico?" etc. These questions naturally enter the minds
of those who have read the criticisms of such writers as
Wilson, Guinn, and Scanland. In regard to the mission-
aries, they were under a vow of poverty. As to the mother
house, it is asserted on honor that up to 1838 not even as
much as a curio had been sent there. After that, as is well
known, there was nothing to send. The fact is, the pro-
ceeds all went into the Indian Community fund for the
benefit of the Indians, or the improvement of their Mission
church, gardens, or workshops. The most careful investi-
gations by experts have led but to one opinion, and that is
that in the early days there was little or no foundation
for the charge that the padres were accumulating money.
During the revolution it is well known that the Missions
practically supported the military for a number of years,
even though the padres, their wards, and their churches all
suffered in consequence.

84 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER V

THE SECULARIZATION OF THE MISSIONS

IT was not the policy or intention of the government
of Spain to found Missions in the New World solely
for the benefit of the natives. Philanthropic motives
doubtless influenced the rulers to a certain degree; but to
civilize barbarous peoples and convert them to the Catholic
faith meant not only the rescue of savages from future
perdition, but the enlargement of the borders of the Church,
the preparation for future colonization, and, consequently,
the extension of Spanish power and territory.

At the very inception of the Missions this was the com-
plex end in view ; but the padres who were commissioned to
initiate these enterprises were almost, without exception,
consecrated to one work only, — the salvation of souls.

In the course of time this inevitably led to differences
of opinion between the missionaries and the secular au-
thorities in regard to the wisest methods of procedure. In
spite of the arguments of the padres, these conflicts re-
sulted in the secularization of some of the Missions prior to
the founding of those in California ; but the condition of
the Indians on the Pacific Coast led the padres to believe
that secularization was a result possible only in a remote
future. They fully understood that the Missions were not
intended to become permanent institutions, yet faced the
problem of converting a savage race into christianized self-
supporting civilians loyal to the Spanish Crown, — a
problem which presented perplexities and difficulties neither
understood nor appreciated at the time by the government

SECULARIZATION OF THE MISSIONS 85

authorities in Spain or Mexico, nor by the mass of critics
of the padres in our own day.

Whatever may have been the mental capacity, ability,
and moral status of the Indians from one point of view, it
is certain that the padres regarded them as ignorant, vile,
incapable, and totally lost without the restraining and edu-
cating influences of the Church. As year after year opened
up the complexities of the situation, the padres became
more and more convinced that it would require an indefinite
period of time to develop these untamed children into law-
abiding citizens, according to the standard of the white
aggressors upon their territory.

On the other hand, aside from envy, jealousy, and greed,
there were reasons why some of the men in authority hon-
estly believed a change in the Mission system of adminis-
tration would be advantageous to the natives, the Church,
and the State.

There is a good as well as an evil side to the great sub-
ject of " secularization." In England the word used is
" disestablishment." In the United States, to-day, for
our own government, the general sentiment of most of its
inhabitants is in favor of what is meant by " seculariza-
tion," though of course in many particulars the cases are
quite different. In other words, it means the freedom of
the Church from the control or help of the State. In such
an important matter there is bound to be great diversity
of opinion. Naturally, the church that is " disestablished "
will be a most bitter opponent of the plan, as was the
church in Ireland, in Scotland, and in Wales. In England
the " dissenters " — as all the members of the nonconform-
ist churches are entitled — are practically unanimous for
the disestablishment of the State or Episcopal Church,
while the Episcopalians believe that such an act would
" provoke the wrath of God upon the country wicked
enough to perpetrate it." The same conflict — in a slightly
different field — is that being waged in the United States

86 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

to-day against giving aid to any church in its work of
educating either white children or Indians in its own sec-
tarian institutions. All the leading churches of the country
have, I believe, at some time or other in their history, been
willing to receive, and actually have received, government
aid in the caring for and education of Indians. To-day it
is a generally accepted policy that no such help shall be
given.

But the question at issue is: Was the secularization of
the Missions by Mexico a wise, just, and humane measure
at the time of its adoption? Let the following history tell.

From the founding of the San Diego Mission in 1769,
until about sixty years later, the padres were practically
in undisturbed possession, administering affairs in accord-
ance with the instructions issued by the viceroys and the
mother house of Mexico. There were several endeavors
by the secular authorities to interfere with them, and this
book could be filled with the records of Serra's troubles
with Fages and Neve, and those of his successors. These
troubles largely sprang from jealousy; and this did not
decrease when the military authorities saw the wonderful
successes of the padres, not only in controlling the neo-
phytes, but in accumulating property and making it val-
uable. On the other hand, the padres felt they were the
stewards of this property for the Indians, and were de-
termined to guard it to the utmost of their ability. What
if they did enlarge their churches, workshops, fields, pas-
tures, gardens, flocks, herds, crops, output from work-
shops?— were not all these things for the Indians? The
better the church could be equipped, the better could the
services for the Indians be conducted. The larger the fields,
the more for the Indians when the time came to divide these
up amongst them. In the meantime, as they had directed
the accumulation of the wealth, they had fought the battles
against ignorance, sloth, and barbarism ; had taught the
Indians how to work and live ; what more natural than

•

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THE

NEW YORK
PUBLIC LIBRARY1

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1905

SECULARIZATION OF THE MISSIONS 87

that they should feel that none could conduct the estab-
lishments — even their temporalities — as well as them-
selves? And I for one am not ready yet to believe that
when any person has built up a large institution it is just
to deprive him of its control on the ground that it is too
large for him to handle. The creator of an enterprise
that has taken many years to develop prima facie is the
best person to control it. This was the secret of the trouble
between Neve and Serra. The former wished to introduce
into the government of the new Missions to be established
during his incumbency the plan of pueblo-Missions (which
I shall fully describe in the companion volume to this),
which had resulted so disastrously on the Colorado River.
Serra objected, urging that " well enough be left alone,"
especially seeing the results at Yuma.

In 1787 Inspector Sola claimed that the Indians were
then ready for secularization ; and if there be any honor
connected with the plan eventually followed, it practically
belongs to him. For, though none of his recommendations
were accepted, he suggested the overthrow of the old
methods for others which were somewhat of the same char-
acter as those carried out many years later.

In 1793 Viceroy Gigedo referred to the secularization of
certain Missions which had taken place in Mexico, and ex-
pressed his dissatisfaction with the results. Three years
later, Governor Borica, writing on the same subject, ex-
pressed his opinion with force and emphasis, as to the
length of time it would take to prepare the California In-
dians for citizenship. He said : " Those of New Cali-
fornia, at the rate they are advancing, will not reach the
goal in ten centuries ; the reason God knows, and men know
something about it."

In 1813 came the first direct attack upon the Mission
system from the Cortes in Spain. Prior to this time a
bishop had been appointed to have charge over church
affairs in California, but there were too few parish

88 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

churches, and he had too few clergy to send to such a far-
away field to think of disturbing the present system for the
Indians. But on September 13, 1813, the Cortes passed
a decree that all the Missions in America that had been
founded ten years should at once be given up to the bishop
" without excuse or pretext whatever, in accordance with
the laws." The Mission fathers in charge might be ap-
pointed as temporal curates, but, of course, under the
control of the bishop instead of the Mission president as
hitherto. Tins decree, for some reason, was not officially
published or known in California for seven or eight years ;
but when, on January 20, 1821, Viceroy Venadito did pub-
lish the royal confirmation of the decree, the guardian of
the college in Mexico ordered the president of the Cali-
fornia Missions to comply at once with its requirements.
He was to surrender all property, but to exact a full in-
ventoried receipt, and he was to notify the bishop that the
missionaries were ready to surrender their charges to their
successors. In accordance with this order President Pay-
eras notified Governor Sola of his readiness to give up the
Missions, and rejoiced in the opportunity it afforded his co-
workers to engage in new spiritual conquests among the
heathen. But this was a false alarm. The bishop re-
sponded that the decree had not been enforced elsewhere,
and as for him the California padres might remain at
their posts. Governor Sola said he had received no official
news of so important a change, but that when he did he
" would act with the circumspection and prudence which
so delicate a subject demands."

With Iturbide's imperial regency came a new trouble to
California, largely provoked by thoughts of the great
wealth of the Missions. The imperial decree creating the
regency was not announced until the end of 1821, and,
practically, all California acquiesced in it. But in the
meantime Agustin Fernandez de San Vicente had been
sent as a special commissioner to " learn the feelings of the

[

SECULARIZATION OF THE MISSIONS 89

Californians, to foment a spirit of independence, to obtain
an oath of allegiance, to raise the new national flag," and
in general to superintend the change of government. He
arrived in Monterey September 26, but found nothing to
alarm -him, as nobody seemed to care much which way
things went. Then followed the " election " of a new gov-
ernor, and the wire-pullers announced that Luis Argiiello
was the " choice of the convention."

In 1825 the Mexican republic may be said to have
become fairly well established. Iturbide was out of the
way, and the politicians were beginning to rule. A new
" political chief " was now sent to California in the person
of Jose Maria Echeandia, who arrived in San Diego late
in October, 1825. While he and his superiors in Mexico
were desirous of bringing about secularization the difficul-
ties in the way seemed insurmountable. The Missions were
practically the backbone of the country ; without them all
would crumble to pieces, and the most fanatical opponent
of the system could not fail to see that without the padres
it would immediately fall. As Clinch well puts it : " The
converts raised seven eighths of the farm produce ; — the
Missions had gathered two hundred thousand bushels in a
single harvest. All manufacturing in the province —
weaving, tanning, leather-work, flour-mills, soap-making
■ — was carried on exclusively by the pupils of the Francis-
cans. It was more than doubtful whether they could be
got to work under any other management, and a sudden
cessation of labor might ruin the whole territory."

Something must be done, so, after consultation with
some of the more advanced of the padres, the governor
issued a proclamation July 25, 1826, announcing to the
Indians that those who desired to leave the Missions might
do so, provided they had been Christians from childhood, or
for fifteen years, were married, or at least not minors, and
had some means of gaining a livelihood. The Indians must
apply to the commandante at the presidio, who, after ob-

90 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

taining from the padre a report, was to issue a written
permit entitling the neophyte and his family to go where
they chose, their names being erased from the Mission
register. The result of this might readily be foreseen.
Few could take advantage of it, and those that did soon
came in contact with vultures of the " superior race " who
proceeded to devour them and their substance.

Between July 29 and August 3, 1830, Echeandia had
the California diputacion discuss his fuller plans, which
they finally approved. These provided for the gradual
transformation of the Missions into pueblos, beginning
with those nearest the presidios and pueblos, of which one
or two were to be secularized within a year, and the rest as
rapidly as experience proved practicable. Each neophyte
was to have a share in the Mission lands and other prop-
erty. The padres might remain as curates, or establish
a new line of Missions among the hitherto unreached In-
dians as they should choose. Though this plan was passed,
it was not intended that it should be carried out until
approved by the general government in Mexico.

All this seems singular to us now, reading three quarters
of a century later, for, March 8, 1830, Manuel Victoria
was appointed political chief in Echeandia's stead; but as
he did not reach San Diego until November or December,
and in the meantime a new element had been introduced into
the secularization question in the person of Jose Maria
Padres, Echeandia resolved upon a bold stroke. He delayed
meeting Victoria, lured him up to Santa Barbara, and kept
him there under various pretexts until he had had time to
prepare and issue a decree. This was dated January 6,
1831. It was a political trick, " wholly illegal, uncalled
for, and unwise." He decreed immediate secularization of
all the Missions, and the turning into towns of Carmel and
San Gabriel. The ayuntamiento of Monterey, in accord-
ance with the decree, chose a commissioner for each of the
seven Missions of the district. These were Juan B. Al-

SECULARIZATION OF THE MISSIONS 91

varado for San Luis Obispo, Jose Castro for San Miguel,
Antonio Castro for San Antonio, Tiburcio Castro for Sole-
dad, Juan Higuera for San Juan Bautista, Sebastian
Rodriguez for Santa Cruz, and Manuel Crespo for San
Carlos. Castro and Alvarado were sent to San Miguel and
San Luis Obispo respectively, where they read the decree
and made speeches to the Indians ; at San Miguel Alvarado
made a spread-eagle speech from a cart and used ;ill his
eloquence to persuade the Indians to adopt the plan of
freemen. " Henceforth their trials were to be over. No
tyrannical priest could compel them to work. They were
to be citizens in a free and glorious republic, with none to
molest or make them afraid." Then he called for those
who wished to enjoy these blessings of freedom to come
to the right, while those who were content to remain under
the hideous bondage of the Missions could go to the left.
Imagine his surprise and the chill his oratory received when
all but a small handful quickly went to the left, and those
who at first went to the right speedily joined the majority.
At San Luis and San Antonio the Indians also preferred
" slavery."

By this time Victoria began to see that he was being
played with, so he hurried to Monterey and demanded the
immediate surrender of the office to which he was entitled.
One of his first acts was to nullify Echeandfa's decree, and
to write to Mexico and explain fully that it was undoubt-
edly owing to the influence of Padres, whom he well knew.
But before the end of the year Echeandia and his friends
rose in rebellion, deposed, and exiled Victoria. Owing to
the struggles then going on in Mexico, which culminated
in Santa Anna's dictatorship, the revolt of Echeandia was
overlooked and Figueroa appointed governor in his stead.

Prior to this, however, Padre Duran had written (Aug-
ust, 1831) to the fathers, asking them for their opinion of
a plan of virtual secularization, which gave freedom from
Mission supervision to the Indians, division of property so

92 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

that it would provide for the services of the Church, the sup-
port of the padres, and help found new Missions. Only
three replies are extant. These are interesting. Bancroft
thus summarizes these letters :

" Padre Juan Cabot writes from San Miguel August 24th, that
while he would be glad to be freed from his cares, he can see
no way of distributing the estates without producing ruin. The
Indians of his mission would have to be scattered at long dis-
tances in order to get a living, and he could not be responsible
for their spiritual care. Padre Jose Sanchez deemed the execu-
tion of the project probably inevitable, but sure to result, as it
was intended to, in total destruction to the missions. Taking
into consideration what had happened in Baja California, and
Sonora, he could see no possibility of good results here. ' So
far as it concerns me personally,' he writes, ' would that it might
be to-morrow, that I might retire between the four walls of a
cell to weep over the time I have wasted in behalf of these mis-
erables.' Padre Jose Joachin Jimenez of Santa Cruz wrote in
October that in view of the reasons urged by the government,
and of the fact that the burden was becoming insupportable to
the friars, it would be wisest to free the Indians and distribute
the property on the basis proposed ; but also that the Indians
should be obliged to keep their share and to work."

One matter of importance must not be forgotten. In
1833 ten padres from the college of Zacatecas were sent to
California. It must be remembered that all the padres of
the old regime were Spaniards. Mexico had revolted from
Spain, and there were not a few who constantly agitated
their fears that the Spanish padres of California would
not fail to intrigue for the restoration of Spanish control.
Orders of banishment were issued against them, but the
governors found it practically impossible to enforce them.
The padres were growing old, and new blood was required ;
so, as the Zacatecans were all Mexicans, their college was
required to send priests to supply the vacant places. They
were given control of all the seven Missions north, includ-

Plate XIX

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SECULARIZATION OF THE MISSIONS 93

ing San Carlos. Their superior, who had the title of Com-
missary, was Francisco Garcia Diego, and he went to reside
at Santa Clara.

In the meantime the Californian delegate to the Mexican
Congress, Carlos Carrillo, was making strenuous efforts to
keep the Missions and the Pious Fund intact. His zeal
delayed any immediate action on the Missions, but a decree
was passed May 25, 1832, empowering the executive to
rent out the properties owned by the Pious Fund for the
period of seven years, the proceeds to be paid into the na-
tional treasury. There can be no doubt whatever but that
this fund excited the cupidity of the Mexican politicians.
These moneys and the prosperous condition of the Cali-
fornia Missions were the chief causes of their downfall.

With Figueroa the battle grew fiercer. So much time
and attention did he give to it that he finally published a
" Manifesto " to the Mexican people, explaining in ex-
tenso his action. This, better than anything else, shows
how the vultures at that time were flying towards the de-
clining Missions. The successive blows had been subver-
sive of discipline, of everything worth preserving, and the
end was not far off.

At first the new governor was inclined to follow Echean-
dia's plans (who, by the way, was still in California, posing
as a preserver of peace and respecter of authority), but
he soon saw that too rapid secularization would demoralize
everything. He reported to Mexico that the Indians were
but as children with a natural predilection for the customs
of their ancestors, and for a savage life without work.
During their " reduction ': they had learned, perforce,
only to cultivate the soil imperfectly, to practice some rude
industries, and to manage horses. If freed at once from
their present state of mild servitude, they would soon from
proprietors become beggars, after having bartered away
their possessions for liquors and gewgaws. They would
then return to the wilderness and join the wild Indians in

94 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

stealing cattle and horses, in order to sell them to the New
Mexicans and foreigners. Nevertheless he issued a series
of provisional regulations on gradual emancipation, await-
ing instructions from the general government.

It was at this time that Don Jose Maria de Hi jar ap-
peared in company with the exiled Padres upon the scene*
Figueroa's ill health had led him to resign. Doubtless
knowing of this through his official " pulls " in Mexico,
Padres had intrigued with such success that the Cortes
passed, August 17, 1833, the law of secularization by
which the final crash was brought about. The act also
provided for the colonization of both the Californias, the
expenses of this latter move to be borne by the proceeds
gained from the distribution of the Mission property.
Hijar was to be made governor of Upper California for
the purpose of carrying this law into effect.

But in the meantime Figueroa's health having been re-
stored, he was continued in office, so that, when Hijar and
Padres appeared on the scene with a number of colonists,
he met the former's instructions to take the political chief-
tainship, with later instructions from the supreme gov-
ernment requiring of him " that you must not deliver up
the said command, and that you must continue in discharge
of the government."

Here, indeed, was a pretty kettle of fish. It cannot be
denied that it was awkward for all concerned. Hijar and
Padres had started out on an elaborate expedition, the
initial cost financed by the government, and a law passed
providing for the later expenses. They had come a long
distance, and had brought the colonists into a foreign land,
these latter necessarily relying upon the good faith of
the supreme government and assured of the integrity of
their leaders, and then, suddenly, they find their high hopes
blasted by a complete reversal of the government's plans.
Their position was critical and embarrassing. Regardless
of who or what they were, we cannot fail to sympathize

SECULARIZATION OF THE MISSIONS 95

with them in their situation. Yet, equally so, can we realize
the position of PMgueroa and honor him for his determined
stand, not to allow the Missions to be spoliated, and the
Indians robbed because of the bungling, or worse, of the
politicians in the colonization scheme. The " Manifesto " is
Figueroa's statement of what transpired between himself
and Hi jar in the hot and sore controversy that ensued.
Had he manfully stood by his first position he would have
been regarded as a sincere defender of the Missions ; but
after a long period of quarrelling with Hi jar and Padres,
he exiled them on the ground of their complicity in a revo-
lution which sought his overthrow, and then published the
" Manifesto " to the Calif ornian and Mexican peoples to
explain his action.

There is strong reason, however, to doubt Figueroa's
sincerity. Just as Echeandia had forestalled the govern-
ment's action, so did he. Even though he had deemed his
own plans of secularization superior to those of Mexico,
he was sworn to carry out the laws. If he could not consci-
entiously do this he should have resigned. To his own
high-handed breaking of the law much subsequent law-
lessness must be attributed.

As to what was actually accomplished under his orders,
the records give uncertain knowledge. It is known that
ten of the Missions were fully secularized. Bancroft sum-
marizes all the information he found about the year 1834
somewhat as follows : " There is nothing in relation to San
Diego. At San Luis Rey, Captain Portilla was commis-
sioner in November, and the accounts turned over by Padre
Fortuni showed assets of $46,613 and liabilities of $14,429.
In December the Indians refused to work, and ran away,
taking most of the horses and killing many cattle ; but in
January they began to come back and behave better.
There is no record for San Juan Capistrano, except that
Juan Jose Rocha, probably the commissioner, acknowl-
edges on November 22 receipt of resolution to secularize

96 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

the Mission. At San Gabriel an inventory was made in
November, 1834, and Lieutenant-colonel Gutierrez was
doubtless the commissioner, being in charge early next year.
Lieutenant Antonio del Valle was the commissioner at San
Fernando, and was engaged in October in making inven-
tories. At Santa Barbara Alf. Anastasio Carillo was
commissioner from September, with Jose Maria Garcia as
majordomo from October. Domingo Carillo was commis-
sioner of Purisima in November. There are no records for
San Luis, San Miguel, San Antonio, San Carlos, San Juan,
or Soledad. Santa Cruz, which was now known as Pueblo
de Figueroa, was delivered to Alf. Ignacio del Valle as
commissioner on August 24 ; and Juan Gonzalez was
majordomo from October. There is no record of seculari-
zation this year at Santa Clara or San Jose. At San
Francisco de Asis Joaquin Estudillo took charge as com-
missioner in September. At San Rafael an inventory was
taken in September, the pueblo was marked out in October
by Ignacio Martinez, who was probably the commissioner,
and stock was distributed in December. San Francisco
Solano was perhaps not fully secularized until next year."

In 1835 it is noted that six additional Missions were
secularized, — San Diego, San Luis Obispo, San Antonio,
Soledad, San Juan Bautista, and San Francisco Solano.
So far as the records show, nothing had yet been done to
definitely change the status of San Buenaventura, Santa
Ines, San Miguel, Santa Clara, and San Jose. In 1836-
37, however, these were secularized, the first two owing to a
quarrel the padres had with the new governor, Chico, and
the others by order of the assembly.

Figueroa was now dead, but the plan he had illegally
set in motion was at work. The old padres, who, as it will
be remembered, were now south of San Carlos, generally
accepted the situation in good faith. They had fought a
good and long fight, had lost, and, as gentlemen and chris-
tians, were accepting the result. It is said the new padres

SECULARIZATION OF THE MISSIONS 97

from Zacatecas wei-e not so complaisant; but there are so
many wild rumors and exaggerated statements as the nat-
ural outcome of the strained political conditions of the
time that it is almost impossible to get at the truth.

There have been hundreds of pages written about the
wild slaughtering of cattle by the padres in order that
they might turn into money everything under their control.
That the officials of the province believed that something
of this kind was going on is evident by the two decrees
they passed upon the subject, and Bancroft thinks there
was some foundation for the general belief, though much
exaggerated. As to the further charge that the padres
wantonly injured the Mission buildings, I cannot believe
there is the slightest foundation of truth in it. They may
have neglected the gardens and orchards, as who would
not, not knowing at what moment they might be sent away,
and the Indians feeling, as the slaves did in the South dur-
ing the Civil War, all the unsettling influences of the time,
and, therefore, making the task of controlling them es-
pecially hard.

It is possible that if things could have gone on for a
decade as Figueroa had planned, all would have ended much
more happily than it did. But fresh and worse disasters
were ahead.

To attempt to recount them all is impossible. Mexico
being in such a whirl of revolution, California was equally
afflicted, and there came governor after governor, " each
worse than the other," as a Hibernian might express it.
Rival political factions outdid each other in their spolia-
tion policies towards the Missions. Under any circum-
stances, — even of the very best, — the secularization plan
would have required great wisdom to carry it out. As it
was, it seems as if no combination of circumstances could
have been worse. All writers are unanimous in saying that
Governor Alvarado's rule from 1836 to 1842 was one of
plunder and ruin in Mission history. Bancroft says " the

98 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

methods of spoliation were substantially as follows : The
governor and subordinate officials by his authority used
the cattle and grain of the Missions as freely as they used
the revenues from other sources. If the government con-
tracted a debt to a trader, the governor gave in payment
an order on any Mission for wheat, tallow, or hides, just
as he would draw a check on the treasury. The major-
domo, being an employe of the government, obeyed the
order as a rule whenever the articles called for existed at
his Mission."

Governor Alvarado also " loaned " Mission cattle to
private individuals, on the condition that the same number
of cattle be returned later. In nine cases out of ten the
loans were never repaid.

Of the methods too generally followed by the administra-
tors of the order of secularization, too strong words of
censure cannot be spoken. They were selfishly cruel, wan-
tonly wicked, and diabolically inhuman. There was no
pretence to any care for the rights or interests of the In-
dians. The Mission establishments were merely objects of
legalized pillage, or, at least, if the pillage were not legal-
ized, it was overlooked and tacitly condoned. As business
men they were incompetent and stupid, deliberately allowing
valuable properties to drift to ruin without the slightest
attempt to save them. " Others were vicious as well as
incompetent, always ready to sell any article of Mission
property, not only live-stock, but kitchen utensils, farm
implements, tools from the shops, and tiles from the roofs,
for money with which to gratify their propensity for gam-
bling. Still others were dishonest and able, devoting their
energies to laying the foundation of future wealth for
themselves and friends, oppressing the Indians, quarrelling
with such padres, officials, and assistants as they could not
control or deceive, and disposing of the Mission wealth
without scruple for their own interests. Finally, there
were, I suppose, some honest, faithful, and tolerably effi-

SECULARIZATION OF THE MISSIONS 99

cicnt managers, who did as well as was possible under
difficult circumstances."

When Pio Pico became governor, there were few funds
with which to carry on the affairs of the country, and he
prevailed upon the assembly to pass a decree authorizing
the renting or the sale of the Mission property, reserv-
ing only the church, a curate's house, and a building
for a court-house. From the proceeds the expenses of con-
ducting the services of the church were to be provided,
but there was no disposition made as to what should be
done to secure the funds for that purpose. Under this
decree the final acts of spoliation were consummated, as
will be seen from a study of the chapter devoted to each
Mission.

The padres took the matter in accordance with their
individual temperaments. Some were hopefully cheerful,
and did the best they could for their Indian charges ;
others were sulky and sullen, and retired to the chambers
allotted to them, coming forth only when necessary duty
called ; still others were belligerent, and fought everything
and everybody, and, it must be confessed, generally with
just cause.

As for the Indians, elsewhere I have shown the effect of
the change upon them. It was exactly as all thoughtful
men had foreseen. Those who received property seldom
made good use of it, and soon lost it. Cattle were neg-
lected, tools unused, for there were none to compel to their
care or use. Consequently it was easy to convert them into
money, which was soon gambled or drank away. Rapidly
they sank from worse to worse, until now only a few
scattered settlements remain of the once vast number,
30,000 or more, that were reasonably happy and prosper-
ous under the rule of the padres.

A laudable effort is now being made to save some of the
things scattered at the time of secularization. One col-
lection has been bought by the Southern California Archa?-

100 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

ological Society, and it is eventually to be placed on per-
manent exhibition in Los Angeles. It is thus described :

" There is in Los Angeles, an invaluable collection of oil
paintings, mostly very old, which formerly hung in the Francis-
can Missions of Southern California ; and a collection of books
"which were once in the libraries of those Missions. At the time
of the secularization these articles were pillaged, even as the
tiles were stolen to roof sheds and pig-pens. About twenty
years ago, a man with the right feeling — a poor man, it hardly
needs be said — began gathering up these scattered articles,
buying them at his own proper cost from the families into whose
hands they had fallen."

When it was known that the United States had designs
on California the last scramble came. Lands, churches,
everything was sold at whatever price it would fetch ; in
some cases given away by the last honorable governor.
Properties were sold for as many tens as they were worth
thousands.

When, finally, the United States gained possession, and
a land court adjudicated the questions of title, all the
Mission buildings were returned to the custody of the
Church, and some of the lands. But their glory was de-
parted ; their sun was set ; and we look upon them now as
we look on their ruined temples of Assyria, the Nile, and
India, — memorials of a time and conditions that are
past.

SAN DIEGO DE ALCALA 101

CHAPTER VI

SAN DIEGO DE ALCALA

THE story of the founding of San Diego by Serra
has already been given. It was the beginning
of the realization of his fondest hopes. The
early troubles with the Indians delayed conversions, but in
1773 Serra reported that some headway had been made.
He gives the original name of the place as Cosoy, in 32°
43', built on a hill two gunshots from the shore, and fac-
ing the entrance to the port at Point Guijarros. The mis-
sionaries left in charge were Padres Fernando Parron and
Francisco Gomez.

About the middle of July ill health compelled Parron to
retire to Lower California and Gomez to Mexico, and
Padres Luis Jayme and Francisco Dumetz took their
places.

San Diego was in danger of being abandoned for lack
of provisions, for in 1772 Padre Crespi, who was at San
Carlos, writes that on the 30th of March of that year " the
mail reached us with the lamentable news that this Mission
of San Diego was to be abandoned for lack of victuals."
Serra then sent him with " twenty-two mules, and with
them fifteen half-loads of flour " for their succor. Padres
Dumetz and Cambon had gone out to hunt for food to the
Lower California Missions. The same scarcity was no-
ticed at San Gabriel, and the padres, " for a considerable
time, already, had been using the supplies which were on
hand to found the Mission of San Buenaventura ; and
though they have drawn their belts tight there remains to

102 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

them provisions only for two months and a half." Later,
Crespi asks :

" What are we to do if there is not wherewith we can maintain
ourselves ? If the escort for a long time is maintaining itself with
the sole ration of half a pint of corn, and of only twenty ounces
of Flour daily ; and the Fathers the same, with a little milk —
how are they to be able to endure ? We are without pottage
whatever, more than the little Corn and Flour aforesaid. And
they say that thus they have passed most of the year — without
lard, without tallow, and without one candle of this sort, nor
even wine for masses — since only on Sundays and feast days is
Mass said. God grant that Father Dumetz arrive promptly with
the Succor for these Missions, and that the Barque bring it to us.
For otherwise we are Lost."

Fortunately help came from both sources ; so the work
continued.

The region of San Diego was well peopled. At the time
of the founding there were eleven rancherias within a
radius of ten leagues. They must have been of a different
type from most of the Indians of the coast, for, from the
first, as the old Spanish chronicler reports, they were
insolent, arrogant, and thievish. They lived on grass
seeds, fish, and rabbits.

In 1774, the separation of the Mission from the presidio
was decided upon, in order to remove the neophytes from
the evil influences of the soldiers. The site chosen was six
miles up the valley (named Nipaguay by the Indians), and
so well did all work together that by the end of the year
a dwelling, a storehouse, a smithy built of adobes, and a
wooden church eighteen by fifty-seven feet, and roofed with
tiles, were completed. Already the work of the padres had
accomplished much. Seventy-six neophytes rejoiced their
religious hearts, and the herds had increased to 40 cattle,
64 sheep, 55 goats, 19 hogs, 2 jacks, 2 burros, 17 mares,
3 foals, 9 horses, 22 mules, — 233 animals in all.

The presidio remained at Cosoy (where the old palms

Plate XX

a. OUR LAHV AS QUEEN OF HEAVEN,
SANTA BARBARA

h. THE HOLY VIRGIN MOTHER

c. SANTA LUCIA

(/. SANTA INK-

SAN DIEGO DE ALCALA 103

now are at Old San Diego), and four thousand adobes that
had been made for the Mission buildings were turned over
to the military. A rude stockade was erected, with two
bronze cannon, one mounted towards the harbor, the other
towards the Indian rancheria.

The experiments in grain raising at first were not suc-
cessful. The seed was sown in the river bottom and the
crop was destroyed by the unexpected rising of the river.
The following year it was sown so far from water that it
died from drought.

There were several changes, arrivals, and departures
among the padres during the first few years, but the most
important was the arrival on August 30, 1773, of Fran-
cisco Palou with seven others from Lower California.

In the meantime Serra, having had difficulties with Gov-
ernor Fages, went to Mexico to plead the cause of the
Missions, and, returning, arrived at San Diego March 13,
1774. On the 6th of April he left for Monterey. Slowly
things began to improve. In the fall of 1775 all seemed to
be bright with hope. New buildings had been erected, a
well dug, and more land made ready for sowing. The
Indians were showing greater willingness to submit them-
selves to the priests, when a conflict occurred that revealed
to the padres what they might have to contend with in their
future efforts towards the christianizing of the natives.
The day before the feast of St. Francis (October 4), 1775,
Padres Jayme and Fuster were made happy by being re-
quired to baptize sixty new converts. Yet a few days later
they were saddened by the fact that two of these newly
baptized fled from the Mission and escaped to the moun-
tains, there to stir up enmity and revolt. For nearly a
month they moved about, fanning the fires of hatred
against the " long gowns," until on the night of November
4 (1775) nearly 800 naked savages, after dusk, stealthily
advanced and surrounded the Mission where the inmates
slept unguarded, so certain were they of their security.

104« THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

Part of the force went on to the presidio, where, in the
absence of the commander, the laxity of discipline was such
that no sentinel was on guard.

An hour after midnight the whole of the Mission was
surrounded. The quarters of the christianized Indians
were invaded, and they were threatened with instantaneous
death if they gave the alarm. The church was broken into
and all the vestments and sacred vessels stolen. Then the
buildings were fired. Not until then did the inmates know
of their danger. Imagine their horror, to wake up and find
the building on fire and themselves surrounded by what, in
their dazed condition, seemed countless hordes of savages,
all howling, yelling, brandishing war clubs, firing their
arrows, — the scene made doubly fearful by the red glare
of the flames.

In the guard-house were four soldiers, — the whole of
the Mission garrison ; in the house the two priests, Jayme
and Fuster, two little boys, and three men (a blacksmith
and two carpenters). Father Fuster, the two boys, and the
blacksmith sought to reach the guard-house, but the latter
was slain on the way. The Indians broke into the room
where the carpenters were, and one of them was so cruelly
wounded that he died the next day.

Father Jayme, with the shining light of martyrdom in
his eyes, and the fierce joy of fearlessness in his heart,
not only refused to seek shelter, but deliberately walked
towards the howling band, lifting his hands in blessing with
his usual salutation : " Love God, my children ! " Scarcely
were the words uttered when the wild band fell upon him,
shrieking and crying, tearing off his habit, thrusting him
rudely along, smiting him with stones, sticks, and battle-
axe, until at the edge of the creek his now naked body was
bruised until life was extinct, and then the corpse filled with
arrows.

During this time the fierce attack on the guard-house
continued. Soon it was in flames. Six men and two chil-

SAN DIEGO DE ALCALA 105

dren defended it against not less than four hundred
screeching, vindictive, avowedly murderous savages. One
of the soldiers, who in the flurry had forgotten his leathern
cuirass, was soon disabled ; thus three only of the soldiers
and the carpenter were the firing squad, with Father
Fuster and the two boys loading the guns for them. When
the heat grew unbearable this brave band rushed into a
kitchen close by, which had one side open. Its roof con-
sisted of boughs thrown loosely over to protect those inside
from the sun's rays. Into the open space the Indians
hurled firebrands, discharged their arrows, and sent whirl-
ing stones with crashing force. To afford a little more
protection, the defenders raised a small barricade with
chests, boxes, etc., from the adjoining storeroom.

Soon the Indians who had gone to storm the presidio
returned. They had not reached their destination when the
glare of the flames apprised them that the attack on the
Mission had begun ; and, fearing lest the garrison should
thereby be warned and prepared for them, they decided to
return. The loud shout that went up from the Indians at
this great reinforcement would have sent terror into the
stoutest heart ; yet, though only two of the soldiers and the
padre were left in fighting trim, the grim defence still went
on. So successful were the shots of the defenders that they
managed to keep the foe at bay until morning, when, giv-
ing up the fight, the attacking force gathered up their
dead and wounded and retired to the mountains.

No sooner were they gone than the neophytes came rush-
ing up to see if any were left alive. Their delight at find-
ing Father Fuster was immediately changed into sadness
as others brought in the awfully mutilated and desecrated
body of Father Jayme. Not until then did Father Fuster
know that his companion was dead, and deep was the
mourning of his inmost soul as he performed the last offices
for his dear companion.

Strange to say, so careless was the garrison that not

106 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

until a messenger reached it from Father Fuster did they
know of the attack. They had placed no guards, posted
no sentinels, and, indifferent in their foolish scorn of the
prowess and courage of the Indians, had slept calmly,
though they themselves might easily have been surprised,
and the whole garrison murdered while asleep.

It was a melancholy procession that marched from the
smoking ruins to the presidio, — the wounded and disabled,
the murdered padre, the charred remains of the black-
smith, and the few animals that remained of the Mission
herds, accompanied by the saddened padre and his faithful
few.

Investigation revealed that after the last baptismal
ceremony two of the neophytes, Carlos and Francisco, had
run away and started on a tour of all the rancherias, in-
citing the Indians to rise and kill the Spaniards. As to
the participation of the other neophytes, there seems to be
disagreement. Anza believed that these planned the up-
rising, deceiving the padres, and made the surprise possible.

When the news reached Serra it brought a song of
praise from his heart, instead of a wail of regret : " God
be thanked ; now the soil is watered ; now will the reduction
of the Dieguinos be complete." In the meantime letters
were sent for aid to Rivera at Monterey, and Anza, the
latter known to be approaching from the Colorado River
region ; and in suspense until they arrived, the little garri-
son and the remaining priests passed the rest of the year.
The two commanders met at San Gabriel, and together
marched to San Diego, where they arrived January 11,
1776. It was not long before they quarrelled. Anza was
for quick, decisive action ; Rivera was for delay ; and, when
news arrived from San Gabriel that the food supply was
running short, Anza left in order to carry out his original
orders, which involved the founding of San Francisco. Not
long after his departure Carlos, the neophyte who had been
concerned in the insurrection, returned to San Diego, and,

SAN DIEGO DE ALCALA 107

doubtless acting under the suggestion of the padres, took
refuge in the temporary church at the presidio. The
law of sanctuary for many centuries operated in nearly
all — if not all — European countries. Any debtor or
person suspected of crime was allowed to postpone his
arrest by entering a church. It was the old Hebrew law
that a criminal was safe if he took hold of the two horns
upon the altar. In all Spanish-speaking countries the civil
law forbade the magistrates or their officers from laying
their hands upon any person inside a church without the
permission of the clerical authorities. The proper and
authorized method of procedure was to make a sworn decla-
ration, and with this in hand given to the priest, the obstacle
was removed.

In the case of the Indian Carlos, Padre Fuster notified
Rivera and informed him what was to be done. The Gov-
ernor, instead of sending the sworn document which would
have ended the matter, sent an officer with a letter demand-
ing the surrender of the Indian on two grounds, namely :
that his offence was such as not to entitle him to sanctuary ;
and that the room where mass was said could not be called
a church. The padre held a consultation with his brother
priests, and as a result the Governor was told that, except
on the sworn statement, they dare not give up the man,
save by orders of their superior, Serra, and that, there-
fore, if he attempted to make the arrest by force they
would be under the necessity of excommunicating him. Im-
mediately on receipt of this answer, Rivera called for a
lighted candle, his baton of office, and, his sword by his
side, entered the church, seized the skulking Indian, took
him outside and delivered him to the guard. Padre Fuster
protested against this violation of both civil and church
law, but all the answer he got was : " Protest away, your
reverence, for there goes the protest before you." And he
pointed to the prisoner that his officers were taking away.

On the next feast day Padre Lasuen (who afterwards

108 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

became Padre presidente of the California Missions), had
to say mass, but before he did so declared that those who
had violated the sanctuary must depart, and Rivera and
his officers, who had participated in the affair, were obliged
to retire before the service proceeded.

It was not until after the intervention of Padre Serra
that the ban of excommunication was removed from Rivera,
and this was doubtless one of the causes that led him to
annoy the priests whenever occasion arose.

In his method of dealing with the rebel Indians, Serra
saw a great hindrance to his spiritual work. It had been
found by long years of missionary labor that prompt and
decisive measures, and then the exercise of a kindly spirit,
worked far better than long continued retaliatory meas-
ures. Rivera, on the other hand, went in for extensive
campaigns, long examinations, and rigorous punishment of
those he deemed guilty. All this interfered with resump-
tion of work on the church ; so Serra himself went to San
Diego, and, finding the ship " San Antonio " in the har-
bor, made an arrangement with Captain Choquet to supply
sailors to do the building under his own direction. Rivera
was then written to for a guard, and he sent six soldiers.
On August 22, 1777, the three padres, Choquet with his
mate and boatswain and twenty sailors, a company of neo-
phytes, and the six soldiers went to the old site and began
work in earnest, digging the foundations, making adobes,
and collecting stones. The plan was to build a wall for
defence, and then erect the church and other buildings
inside. For fifteen days all went well. Then an Indian
went to Rivera with a story that hostile Indians were pre-
paring arrows for a new attack, and this so scared the
gallant officer that he withdrew his six men. Choquet had
to leave with his men, as he dared not take the responsi-
bility of being away with so many men without the con-
sent of Rivera ; and, to the padre's great sorrow, the work
had to cease.

Plate XX]

a. ST. JOHN THE EVANGELIST,
SANTA CLARA

b. ST. STEPHEN, SANTA CLARA

c. PROCESSION \l CROSS (FRONT),
SANTA INKS

,1. PROCESSION \l. CROSS (Rl \ ERSE),
SANTA IN ES

THE
NEV YORK

'PUBLIC I • fi RY

Astor, Lentfx and

Four r1 '

190u

SAN DIEGO DE ALCALA 109

A few days later a native reported that soldiers were
marching up the peninsula from Velicata. These were
found to be extra soldiers for guards, so it was not long
before work was resumed, and the buildings were in con-
dition for occupancy.

In March of 1778 Captain Carrillo was sent to chastise
hostile Indians at Pamo who had sent insolent messages to
Captain Ortega. Carrillo surprised the foe, killed two,
burned others who took refuge in a hut, while the others
surrendered and were publicly flogged. The four chiefs,
Aachel, Aalcuirin, Aaaran, and Taguagui, were captured,
taken to San Diego, and there shot, though the officer had
no legal right to condemn even an Indian to death without
the approval of the governor. Ortega's sentence reads :
" Deeming it useful to the service of God, the King, and
the public weal, I sentence them to a violent death by two
musket-shots on the 11th at 9 a. m., the troops to be pres-
ent at the execution under arms, also all the Christian
rancherias subject to the San Diego Mission, that they
may be warned to act righteously."

Ortega then instructed Padres Lasuen and Figuer to
prepare the condemned. " You will co-operate for the
good of their souls in the understanding that if they do not
accept the salutary waters of baptism they die on Saturday
morning ; and if they do — they die all the same ! " This
was the first public execution in California.

In 1779 Indians were chosen as alcaldes and regidores.
This was a wise procedure, and one which, perhaps better
than any other, if persisted in, would have taught the re-
sponsibilities of citizenship to the Indians. To have mem-
bers of their own society act as magistrates, and, under the
direction of the padres until they were wise enough to work
alone, administer their laws, would have taught them far
more than paternalism could have done. It is a great pity
that this system, thus wisely begun, was not persisted in
and introduced at all the Missions.

110 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

In 1780 the new church, built of adobe, strengthened
and roofed with pine timbers, ninety feet long and seven-
teen feet wide and high, was completed.

In 1782 fire destroyed the old presidio church.

All communication with Mexico was either by water or
overland down the peninsula. When Governor Neve left
California he recommended that a new and better route to
the south be found, and this was evidently done, as in 1786
General Rengel gave his approval to a new route which
was said to save ten or twelve leagues of distance and avoid
some dangerous bands of coast Indians.

It was also attempted, in 1783, to find an inland route
by way of the desert and the Colorado River to Sonora, but
the officer sent out — Alf erez Velasquez — soon wearied
and returned. In 1785 Governor Fages himself made the
trip, having one or two brushes with the Indians. He, by
the way, was the first white man who crossed from the Col-
orado River to San Diego. He made this trip in 1782.

In 1783 Lasuen made an interesting report on the con-
dition of San Diego. At the Mission there were church,
granary, storehouse, hospital, men's house, shed for wood
and oven, two houses for the padres, larder, guest-room,
and kitchen. These, with the soldiers' barracks, filled three
sides of a square of about 160 feet, and on the fourth side
was an adobe wall, nearly ten feet high. There were 740
neophytes at that time under missionary care, though
Lasuen spoke most disparagingly of the location as a
Mission site.

In May, 1790, Jose Antonio Romeu was appointed gov-
ernor of the Californias, and in August of 1791 he reached
San Diego on his way to Monterey. His rule was short,
for he died in April of the following year, and was suc-
ceeded by Arrillaga, who was the lieutenant-governor.

In 1800 the number of neophytes at San Diego was
1523. There had been 1320 baptisms and 628 deaths. It
was now the most populous Mission in California. In the

SAN DIEGO DE ALCALA 111

year 1797 there were 554 baptisms, the banner year in the
whole history of the Missions except 1803, when, at Santa
Barbara, 831 received the water of the holy sacrament.

The Mission herds multiplied in this decade from 1730
to 6960 head, and its flocks from 2100 to 6000. The har-
vest of agricultural products in 1800 was 2600 bushels, the
largest crops having been 9450 bushels in 1793 and 1799.
A large tile-roofed granary was built, 96 by 24 feet. In
1794 the Mission wall was constructed, and the vineyard
surrounded by five hundred yards of adobe wall. In 1795
work was begun on a newly discovered source of water-
supply for irrigation. This is believed by some to have
been the extensive work now in ruins ; though others claim
it was not begun until after the ruinous drought of 1809.

The dam is in a rocky gorge at the west end of the
Cajon Valley, about three and a half miles above the
Mission. It is built of gray granite and cement, more than
twelve feet thick, and is almost as perfect as when com-
pleted, though the sand has filled it up nearly to the level.
A three-inch tile opened into the acequia, which is made of
cement and stones, with a concave tile for the bottom. It
is two feet across and two feet in depth.

There were places where the aqueduct had to be carried
over cross-gulches, but the fall of the channel was so per-
fectly engineered that it delivered the water in full flow
at the spot required. In 1817 Governor Sola visited San
Diego, and he says the padres " had now begun to bring
water through conduits," so it may be possible these works
were not finished until about that time.

From the top of the dam a glorious view may be had of
Cuyamaca Peak, about forty miles away, where the timbers
were secured for the Waste Gate and the Mission; and
about a mile above the dam, on a hill commanding a won-
derful outlook, is an old fortified sentinel post that gives
view over the whole Cajon Valley. It was a circular en-
closure of stone between huge boulders, and the old Indians

112 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

have told me it was constantly used for years on account
of the hostile tendencies of the mountain Indians.

Considerable excitement was caused in 1803 by the ap-
pearance of the " Lelia Byrd," Captain Cleveland, which
tried to do some illegal bargaining for otter-skins, trade
in which was absolutely forbidden by the Spanish govern-
ment. Cleveland had learned that some of the soldiers had
skins to sell if they could dispose of them secretly ; so in
the night two boats were sent off. One came back in due
time with a few skins ; the other was captured and its men
made prisoners. Next morning Cleveland went ashore with
four men, rescued the captives, returned to his vessel, and
then, setting sail, attempted to run out past the guns of
the fort. It should not be forgotten that when the com-
mandant came on board to investigate the reason for the
visit of Cleveland he left a sergeant and five men on board
as a guard. These men were made to occupy as conspicu-
ous a position on the fleeing vessel as possible, but this did
not prevent the officers at the fort from sending several
well-directed shot at the vessel, one of which made an ugly
hole just above the water line. But she made her escape,
after landing the six Spaniards. One amusing sequence to
the affair was the overhauling of one of the corporals and
his men for their share in the trading. They were com-
pelled to give up the goods they had received for their
contraband otter-skins, and they were eventually sold at
auction for $212, the proceeds of which were divided among
the men who made the capture of the sailors of Cleveland's
boat.

May 25, 1803, an earthquake slightly damaged the
Mission church, and then, or later, a new church was begun.
It was finished and dedicated on San Diego's day, Novem-
ber 12, 1813.

In 1824 San Diego registered its largest population,
being then 1829.

When Spanish rule ended, and the Mexican empire and

SAN DIEGO DE ALCALA 113

republic sent its first governor, Echeandia, lie decided to
make San Diego his home ; so for the period of his gover-
norship, though he doubtless lived at or near the presidio,
the Mission saw more or less of him. As is shown in the
chapter on secularization, he was engaged in a thankless
task when he sought to change the Mission system, and
there was no love lost between the Governor's house and the
Mission.

In 1833, from February to June, there was considerable
excitement caused by a rumor that Indians in El Cajon
were to gather together and make an onslaught upon the
Mission. A small force was sent out to capture the chief,
Tajochi, and other ringleaders. He was sentenced to two
years of public work, and three of his associates received
shorter sentences.

In 1833 Governor Figueroa visited San Diego Mission
in person, in order to exhort the neophytes to seize the
advantages of citizenship which the new secularization
regulations were to give to them ; but, though they heard
him patiently, and there and at San Luis Rey one hundred
and sixty families were found to be duly qualified for
" freedom," only ten could be found to accept it. Neverthe-
less he appointed Captain Argiiello as comisionado to
carry out the new law, though the Mission itself was not
formally secularized until 1834. In April of that year
Joaquin Ortega became the majordomo. How many In-
dians were allotted lands we do not know, though the pueblo
of San Pascual, with thirty-four families, was in existence
in November. These were doubtless San Diego neophytes.
But the decline of the Mission had begun. Though in
November, 1835, the decree was issued that the temporal
control should be restored to the padres, nothing seems to
have been done.

In 1836 complaints were frequent and loud against the
Indians, and the citizens made several expeditions against
them, in one of which seven Indians were killed. In April

114 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

or May of 1837 the Indians made a raid on the frontier
ranchos, and at Jamul several whites were killed, and the
majordomo's two grown-up daughters were carried away
into captivity, from which they were never released. The
San Diegans were in great terror, but protection was
afforded by the ship " Alert " ; and later, Juan Bandini,
whose rancho of Tecate was one of the plundered, returned
from Los Angeles, marched against the foe, and in a cam-
paign of ten days is said to have killed several Indians, —
all he could find. Thus already the work of the demoral-
ization and destruction of the Indians had begun, as the
result of the secularization plans. Another excitement in
1837 was caused by the rumor of a plot to attack the town
and kill all the Spanish inhabitants. Indian servants were
to co-operate by opening doors, but one of them revealed
the plot, and three out of the dozen servants were immedi-
ately arrested and shot.

December 11, 1841, saw the arrival of the newly ap-
pointed Bishop of California. Garcia Diego was the pre-
fect of the band of Zacatecanos who, it will be remembered,
came to take charge of the seven northern Missions in
1833. When secularization made parishes of the Missions,
even the politicians saw that it was no longer reasonable to
suppose that the ecclesiastical affairs of California could
be administered by the bishop in Sonora ; so Diego was
appointed, with a large salary (on paper) and control of
the Pious Fund.

On the 29th of March, 1843, Governor Micheltorena
issued a decree which restored San Diego Mission tempo-
ralities to the management of the padre. He explained in
his prelude that the decree was owing to the fact that the
Mission establishments had been reduced to the mere space
occupied by the buildings and orchards, that the padres
had no support but that of charity, etc. Mofras gives the
number of Indians in 1842 as 500, but an official report of
1844 gives only 100. The Mission retained the ranchos of

SAN DIEGO DE ALCALA 115

Santa Isabel and El Cajon until 1844-45, and then, doubt-
less, they were sold or rented in accordance with the plans
of Fio Pico.

In 1852 Bartlett visited San Diego Mission. He says:

" It is a spot possessing great picturesque beauty, and sur-
rounded by fertile and well watered lands. It was the last of
the California Missions that was abandoned ; and but five years
ago its ancient library and its priest still remained. The build-
ings, which are of adobe, are nob extensive, but are in good pres-
ervation. The Mission is at present occupied by United States
troops, under the command of Col. J. B. Magruder, and in
consequence is kept in good repair."

To-day nothing but the fachada of the church remains,
and that has recently been braced or it would have fallen.
The photograph shows its condition in 1904. There are
a few portions of walls also, and a large part of the adobe
wall around the garden remains. The present owner of
the orchard, in digging up some of the old olive trees, has
found a number of interesting relics : stirrups, a gun-
barrel, hollow iron cannon-balls, metates, etc. These are
all preserved and shown as " curios," together with beams
from the church, and the old olive-mill. Carter says:

" In this orchard is an old abandoned well, and from it, tradi-
tion affirms, is an underground passage leading to the Mission.
This was used when the padres and their company were besieged,
at various times, by the Indians. Whether there be such a pas-
sage, no one knows for a certainty ; but it seems more than
likely, for there are remains of some sort of a passage to be seen
in the well, a few feet below the surface of the gi'ound, which
has been explored for a short distance, where the way was found
to be caved in and blocked."

Instead of being an underground passage, it may be that
this is one of the vaults for storing tallow, of which, as
I have elsewhere shown, the Missions made great quantities.

By the side of the ruined church a newer and modem

116 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

brick building now stands. It destroys the picturesqueness
of the old site, but it is engaged in a good work. Father
Ubach, the indefatigable parish priest of San Diego, is
possessed with much of the spirit of the old padres, and he
it is who has erected this building for the training of the
Indian children of the region. On one occasion I asked
the children if they knew any of the " songs of the old," the
songs their Indian grandparents used to sing ; and to my
delight, they sang two or three of the old chorals taught
their ancestors in the early Mission days by the padres.

SAN CARLOS BORROMEO 117

CHAPTER VII

SAN CARLOS BORROMEO

A BRIEF account of the founding of San Carlos at
Monterey, June 3, 1770, was given in an earlier
chapter. What joy the discovery of the harbor
and founding of the Mission caused in Mexico and Spain
can be understood when it is remembered that for two cen-
turies this thing had been desired. In the Mexican city the
bells of the Cathedral rang forth merry peals as on special
festival days, and a solemn mass of thanksgiving was held,
at which all the city officials and dignitaries were present.
At full account of the event was printed and distributed
there and in Spain, so that, for a time at least, California
occupied a large share of public attention.

Padre Crespi reports an interesting event in connection
with the second expedition, that found the Bay of Mon-
terey. He says :

" After a journey et' three leagues, we arrived at one of the
salty lagunas of Punca Pinos, where a cross had been erected.
Before alighting from our horses, the Governor, a soldier, and
myself approached the cross, seeking to discover some signs of
the expedition which had set out for water, but we found none.
The cross was surrounded by arrows, and little rods tipped with
feathers, which had been set in the ground by Indians; sus-
pended from a stick, at one side of the cross, was a string of
half-spoiled sardines, a pile of mussels, and a piece of meat.
This astonished us not a little ; but we failed to comprehend the
significance of it ; however, as soon as the neophytes were
capable of expressing themselves in Spanish, they assured us
that the first time they saw the Spaniards, their attention was
attracted by a beautiful shining cross which each one wore on

118 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

his breast ; that when they departed they left on the shore this
large cross, which seemed at night to almost touch the sky, and
was surrounded with rays of heavenly light ; but in the daytime,
seeing it in its usual proportions, and, to propitiate it, they had
offered it flesh-meat and fish ; observing that it partook not of
their feast, they presented arrows and feathers, as a token that
they were at peace with the holy cross, and with those who had
planted it."

The result of the news of the founding of San Carlos
was that all were enthused for further extension of the
Missions. The indefatigable Galvez at once determined
that five new Missions should be founded, and the Guardian
of the Franciscan College was asked for, and agreed to
send, ten more missionaries for the new establishments,
as well as twenty for the old and new Missions on the
peninsula.

Prior to the arrival of these missionaries Serra was not
inactive. He soon decided, after a careful survey of the
country, that the location of the Monterey Mission could
be bettered. Look at him ! The old priest, with a lame leg,
on foot, garbed in his long gray gown, tramping over the
hills around Monterey, seeking for a new site. It is a pic-
ture to arouse the lazy blood of some of us to-day who
would never think of walking from Hotel del Monte to the
Carmelo Valley. Religious zeal is indeed a great incite-
ment to labor. When the permission was duly given, Serra
set to work at his new site on the banks of the Rio Carmelo.
There he left three sailors and forty Indians (Bancroft
says four) from the peninsula, at work cutting timber,
while five soldiers looked on and lent occasional assistance.
Travelling overland, he established the Mission of San
Antonio de Padua, and then returned ; and after several
months of labor in preparing the new buildings, the formal
transfer took place in December of 1771. Palou says that
during this time " his dwelling was a poor hut. He erected
a large cross, which he visited and venerated at an early

SAN CARLOS BORROMEO 119

hour every morning; here too the soldiers would assemble
and sing an alabado or hymn ; then, after matins and
prime, Padre Junipero would offer the holy sacrifice of the
mass, at which the soldiers and servants attended with
great devotion. Then all commenced to labor, Junipero
everywhere directing. Often during the day he would
cease his labors, venerate the cross, and recite his rosary,
this being the only recreation he allowed himself. The
Indians visited him daily, and he delighted them by offering
them strings of beads and little trinkets; afterwards he
made the sign of the cross on their foreheads, and accus-
tomed them to kiss that holy emblem. He also tried to pick
up a few words of their language; he taught them to
salute one another by saying : ' Amar a Dios,' ' to love
God ; ' and this custom became so general that it was
adopted even by the Indians, who would thus salute the
Spaniards when they met."

Thus did the zealous Junipero in his desire to win the
heathen to the Cross.

At the end of the year 1773 Serra made his report to
Mexico, and then it was found that there were more con-
verts at San Carlos than at any other Mission. Three
Spanish soldiers had married native women. The buildings
are thus described, according to Bancroft :

" A line of high strong posts, set in the ground close together,
encloses the rectangular space which contains the simple wooden
buildings serving as church and dwellings, the walls of which
also in most instances take the stockade form. At San Carlos
the rectangle is seventy yards long and forty-three wide, with
ravelins at the corners. For want of nails the upright palisades
are not secured at the top, and the ease with which they can be
moved renders the strong gate locked at night an unnecessary
precaution. Within, the chief building, also of palisade walls
plastered inside and out with mud or clay, is seven by fifty
yards and divided into six rooms. One room serves as a church,
another as the minister's dwelling, and another as a storehouse,

120 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

the best rooms being whitewashed with lime. This building is
roofed with mud, supported by horizontal timbers. A slighter
structure used as a kitchen is roofed with grass. The quarters
of the soldiers are distinct from the mission and are enclosed
by a separate palisade, while outside of both enclosures are the
simple huts of the rancheria."

A little later, as the mud roofs were not successful in
keeping- out the winter rains, a new church was built, partly
of rough and partly of worked lumber, and roofed with
tules. The lumber used was the pine and cypress for which
the region is still noted.

There was little agriculture, only five fanegas of wheat
being harvested in 1772. Each Mission received eighteen
head of horned cattle at its founding, and San Carlos
reported a healthy increase.

In 1772 Serra left for Mexico, to lay matters from the
missionary standpoint before the new viceroy, Bucareli.
He arrived in the City of Mexico in February, 1773. With
resistless energy and eloquence he pleaded for the preser-
vation of the shipyard of San Bias, the removal of Fages,
some of whose irritations I have elsewhere referred to, the
correction of certain abuses that had arisen as the result
of Fages's actions, and for further funds, soldiers, etc., to
prosecute the work of founding more Missions. In all the
main points his mission was successful. Captain Rivera y
Moncada, with whose march from the peninsula we are
already familiar, was appointed governor ; and at the
same time that he received his instructions, August 17,
1773, Captain Juan Bautista de Anza was authorized to
attempt the overland journey from Sonora to Monterey.
Full particulars of this and subsequent trips over the
sandy deserts of Arizona will be given in the companion
volume to this.

Here, then, were three parties starting from Mexico to
California at about the same time: Serra, Rivera, and
Anza. They all arrived in due course, — Anza at San

SAN CARLOS BORROMEO 121

Gabriel, March 22, Serra at Monterey, May 9, and Rivera
at Monterey, May 23, 1774.

Successful in his first trip, Anza returned to Mexico to
report to the Viceroy, who immediately gave him orders to
prepare for a second. He was to recruit soldiers and set-
tlers for a new presidio to be established at San Francisco,
and two new Missions on the Colorado River, the latter be-
ing deemed a necessary step towards making the route
overland aci'oss Arizona practical. In the chapter on San
Francisco full particulars of this expedition will be given.

The Colorado River Missions were duly established, at-
tacked, and destroyed, with much loss of life, as elsewhere
recorded. But prior to this, Anza had met Rivera at San
Gabriel, had gone to San Diego to help suppress the re-
bellion there, and had met Serra at Monterey, where a
special service of thanksgiving was held. San Francisco
was duly founded, and Anza returned to Sonora, and
Rivera to the Colorado River, where his murder by the
Indians took place a little later.

It should not be overlooked that, prior to the arrival of
Anza, the viceroy wrote both to Serra and Rivera of his
intention to found a new presidio at San Francisco. He
required Lieutenant Ayala to explore the bay to find out
whether the mouth seen by Fages three years before was a
navigable entrance, and also to learn whether the bay was
suitable for a port. As Ayala had no boat he set to work
to make a cayuco, or dugout, from the trunk of a redwood,
on the shores of the Carmelo River, doubtless availing him-
self of the Indians there, who were experts in such work.
This canoe, after serving its purpose, was finally wrecked
on the beach below the cliff, where it was stranded after
breaking loose from its moorings.

In 1776 Serra's heart was joyed with the thought that
he was to wear a martyr's crown, for there was a rumor of
an Indian uprising at San Carlos ; but the presence of
troops sent over from Monterey seemed to end the trouble.

122 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

In July, 1776, Felipe de Neve, who, since March, 1775,
had been governing the Calif ornias at Loreto, was ordered
to transfer his capital to Monterey. Already the impor-
tance of the new California was beginning to shadow the
old. Rivera was to become lieutenant-governor and rule
Lower California. But another power than that of king
and viceroy was directing his affairs, and he did not live to
assume his office. Neve, however, arrived at Monterey on
the 3d of February, 1777. It was not long before Neve
and Serra were at loggerheads on matters pertaining to
the Church. Serra received a patent in 1778, entitling him
to perform the sacred rite of confirmation, — a rite gen-
erally reserved to no office lower than that of bishop. Serra
was not a bishop ; the nearest bishop to California was
thousands of miles away. To overcome the difficulty the
Holy Father in Rome authorized this special patent. In
1779 Neve, as the representative of the Crown of Spain,
called upon him for his authority for the exercise of the
office. The quarrel was long and severe, and, as might have
been foreseen, ultimated in Neve receiving orders to refrain
from interference with Serra.

In 1779 a maritime event of importance occurred. The
padres at San Carlos and the soldiers at Monterey saw a
galleon come into the bay, which proved to be the " San
Jose," from Manila. It should have remained awhile, but
contrary winds arose, and it sailed away for San Lucas.
But the King later issued orders that all Manila galleons
must call at Monterey, under a penalty of four thousand
dollars, unless prevented by stress of weather.

This same year Serra chose two each, alcaldes and regi-
dores, from the Indian neophytes to aid in the administra-
tion of justice at San Carlos. Great improvements had
been made at the presidio at Monterey, and at the Mission
things were slowly improving. For the next two or three
years there was much working at cross purposes between
Serra and Neve, the latter wanting new Missions to be

SAN CARLOS BORROMEO 123

established on the plan which had proven so disastrous on
the Colorado River ; but in 1782, while Neve and his lieu-
tenant, Fages, were near Yunna on a campaign against
the Indians, orders came appointing Neve to a higher office
in Mexico, and making Fages governor of California.
Fages and Serra had never agreed when Fages held the
office before, but as he showed a better disposition than
heretofore, it was hoped that all would prove for the best.

In 1784, however, Serra was called upon to lay down all
earthly burdens and receive his heavenly reward. His
personal work was ended. The year before his beloved co-
worker and friend, Padre Crespi, had died. Crespi had
aided Serra in the founding of San Carlos, and for some
time had worked there. In 1781 the two had journeyed
together to visit San Francisco and Santa Clara, and it
was on their return that he was taken with his fatal illness.
Serra himself administered the last rites to his friend when
he died, January 1. He was buried in the church at San
Carlos, on the gospel side of the sanctuary. Now Serra's
own end had come. August 28 he passed away so quietly
that all thought he was sleeping. He was buried, as was
his expressed wish, by the side of Crespi, in the sanctuary
at San Carlos, Palou performing the rites.

For a short time after Serra's death the duties of padre
presidente fell upon Palou; but in February, 1785, the
college of San Fernando elected Lasuen to the office, and
thereafter he resided mainly at San Carlos.

September 14, 1786, the eminent French navigator,
Jean Francois Galaup do la Perouse, with two vessels, ap-
peared at Monterey, and the Frenchman gives us a vivid
picture of his reception at the Mission of San Carlos that
is worth transcribing.

"The padres of San Carlos Mission, two leagues from Monterey,
soon came to the presidio ; as kind to us as the officers of fort
and frigates they insisted on our going to dine with them, and
promised to acquaint us in detail with the management of their

124 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

mission, the Indian manner of living, their arts and customs, in
fact all that might interest travellers. We accepted with eager-
ness . . . M. Fages wished to accompany us. . . . After having
crossed a little plain covered with herds of cattle . . . we as-
cended the hills and heard the sound of bells announcing our
coming. We were received like lords of a parish visiting their
estates for the first time. The president of the missions, clad in
cope, his holy-water sprinkler in hand, received us at the door of
the church illuminated as on the grandest festivals ; led us to
the foot of the altar ; and chanted a Te Deum of thanksgiving
for the happy issue of our voyage. Before entering the church
we had crossed a plaza where Indians of both sexes were ranged
in line ; their faces showed no surprise and left room for doubt
if we should be the subject of their conversation for the rest of
the day."

After leaving the church the visitors spent a short time
in examining the Mission and in making a careful, though
necessarily brief, study of the Franciscan regime and its
effects upon the natives. They probably visited San Carlos
more than once.

La Perouse's companion, M. de Langle, presented San
Carlos with a hand-mill for grinding wheat, which would
enable four of the neophyte women to do the work of a
hundred in the old way ; but it is very doubtful whether
they used it long.

In 1791 Fages retired from the governorship with
honors, and Jose Antonio Romeu was named his successor.
He arrived at Monterey in ill-health, October 13, and on
April 9, 1792, he passed away, and was buried at San
Carlos the next day. The Lieutenant-Governor Arrillaga
was thereupon called up from Loreto to act as temporary
governor until a new appointment was made. He reached
Monterey early in July, 1793.

In the meantime the English navigator, Vancouver, had
visited San Francisco, and Santa Clara, and San Carlos.
Lasuen had entertained him as hospitably as he did La
Perouse six years before. The natives gave an exhibition

Plate XXII

..»

RUINED CORRIDORS A I' SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA

SAN CARLOS BORROMEO 125

of their skill in killing deer by stratagem, and there was
a grand dinner at the presidio, and even fireworks. The
governor, on his arrival, was much chagrined at the fact
that Vancouver had been allowed to discover the weakness
of the Spanish defences in California, and he administered
a general rebuke to his officers. Consequently, when Van-
couver returned at the end of 1793 he was not received so
warmly, though it was only by contrast with his former
reception that he could have justly made any complaint.
But before he sailed away, the British captain gave to
Padre Lasucn a handsome barrel-organ as a gift for San
Carlos. There is such an organ at San Juan Bautista as
is recorded in the chapter devoted to that Mission, and it
may be that it is the very one thus contributed.

On his second visit he went to San Carlos (Sunday, De-
cember 2, 1792), and while he gives no detailed description,
he presents a drawing which shows four buildings irregu-
larly arranged and partially enclosing a square. From
this picture Bancroft makes up the following description:

" The old church, partly thatched and partly tiled, stands on
the left of the picture, and probably on the west side of the
square. Three bells hang on a frame raised on a stone founda-
tion ; a lofty cross, bearing a close resemblance to a modern
telegraph-pole, rears its head near the centre of the plaza, and
just beyond, almost in contact with, and apparently northeast-
ward from the old church, are the rising stone walls of a new
one. Beyond, on an eminence, may be seen a corral for cattle,
while at the right are the conical huts of the neophytes. The
new church was being built of a soft, straw-colored stone, which
was said to harden on exposure to the air. The lime used was
made from sea-shells. This church, the ruins of which are still
to be seen on the banks of the Carmelo, was completed and
dedicated in September 1797."

While the description thus given shows the new church,
it is possible it was not added in his drawing until his third
visit, which occurred in 1794, for Padre Lasuen states that

126 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

the first stone was laid July 7, 1793, a year after Van-
couver's visit.

The troubles in Europe caused by Napoleon sent a tiny
ripple which was felt at Monterey ; but his act in placing
his brother Joseph on the throne of Spain was never recog-
nized. On March 5, 1809, Ferdinand the Seventh was duly
hailed as " Our king and natural lord," and on the 10th of
August Governor Arrillaga swore loyalty to him before
President Tapis (who had taken the place of the deceased
Lasuen) in the church at San Carlos.

In 1810 Spanish South America began to revolt against
Spanish rule. In 1818 Monterey and California generally
felt a wave from this sea of revolt in the coming of Captain
Bouchard, who professed to be waging war against Spain
and her possessions in the interests of the South American
insurgents. October 6, 1818, the American brig " Clar-
ion " arrived at Santa Barbara, and alarmed the command-
ante, Guerra, by telling him that two vessels were outfitting
at the Hawaiian Islands for the devastation of the Califor-
nia settlements. Immediately Guerra sent warnings north
and south, which, when received by Governor Sola, led that
active official to issue most explicit instructions to all the
various officials and the padres at the Missions, as to what
they were to do if the enemy actually hove in sight. A
month passed, and the people had begun to forget their
fears, when, on the afternoon of November 20, the sen-
tinel on Point Pinos reported two vessels in sight approach-
ing Monterey. On their arrival and anchoring there were
parleyings and evasions, and finally next morning a con-
flict resulted, in which the insurgents lost several men.
Bouchard then made a demand for the immediate surrender
of the province, which Sola indignantly refused. Then
followed the landing of four hundred men with four field
pieces, and as Sola had only twenty-five men to oppose it,
he ordered his guns spiked and beat a retreat, taking
everything he could with him to the rancho del rey, where

SAN CARLOS BORROMEO 127

Salinas City now stands. The insurgents set the presidio
and fort on fire, and destroyed supplies to the value of
$5000, and also took private property of the officers to the
same value. The orchard and garden were entirely ruined.
Possibly they did not go over to San Carlos Mission, for
nothing there was injured. They sailed away November
26, or early in the morning of November 27, and we shall
hear further from them at several of the other Missions.

In due time the officials and people returned, and by
April, 1819, possibly earlier, Monterey had resumed its
old-time aspect.

About this time the chapel adjoining the church, on the
south side, in honor of the " pasion del seiior," was erected,
though the exact date of its dedication is not known.

San Carlos felt the troubles of the Mexican revolution
somewhat, in that Prefect Sarrfa was regarded as under
arrest for some time as a recalcitrant Spaniard. In 1830
the report shows that it was rapidly declining in Indian
population. In 1833 the Zacatecan padre, Jose Maria del
Refugia Sagrado Suarez del Real, took the place of the
Franciscan Abella. In 1834-35 the Mission was secular-
ized, Joaquin Gomez being appointed commissioner, and
succeeded by Jose Antonio Romero as majordomo. The
spoliation was rapid: there being little property left in
1834, and none at all but the ruined buildings in 1840.
At the time of secularization Serra's army of converts had
dwindled down to 150, and at the end of the decade there
were only about 30 left, with perhaps 50 more out at ser-
vice at the ranches and in the town.

When Pico issued his decrees in 1845 San Carlos was re-
garded as a pueblo, or abandoned Mission, Padre Real
residing at Monterey and only holding services occasion-
ally. The little property that remained was to be sold ab
auction for the payment of debts and the support of wor-
ship, but there is no record of pi'operty, debts, or sale. The
glory of San Carlos was departed.

128 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

For many years no one cared for the building, and it
was left entirely to the mercy of the vandal and relic
hunter. In 1852 the tiled roof fell in, and all the tiles
save about 1000 were either then broken, or afterwards
stolen. The rains and storms beating in soon brought
enough sand to form a lodgment for seeds, and ere long
a dense growth of grass and weeds overgrew the dust of
California's great apostle.

In " Glimpses of California," by " H. H.," Mr. Sand-
ham, the artist, has a picture which well illustrates the
original spring of the roof and curve of the walls. There
were three buttresses, from which sprang the roof arches.
The curve of the walls was made by increasing the thickness
at the top, as can be seen from the window spaces on each
side, which still remain in their original condition. The
building is about 150 feet long by 30 feet wide.

In 1868 Rev. Angelo D. Cassanova became the pastor of
the parish church at Monterey, and though Serra's home
Mission was then a complete mass of ruins, he determined
upon at least its preservation from further demolition.
The first step was to clear away the debris that had accu-
mulated since its abandonment, and then to locate the
graves of the missionaries. On July 3, 1882, after due
notice in the San Francisco papers, over 400 people as-
sembled at San Carlos. There, from the original records,
he read aloud to the assembled people the following entries,
both in the original Spanish, and then in English :

" Rev. F. Francisco Lasuen, second President of the missions ;
born in Spain, died here, and is buried in the sanctuary, on the
Gospel side, in a stone tomb near the main altar, June 28th,
1803."

Father Cassanova thus describes what follows:

" The heavy stone slab having been removed before the cere-
mony, the coffin of each stone tomb or grave was left visible,
A man then went down and raised the lid of each coffin. The

SAN CARLOS BORROMEO 129

coffins were simple red wood, unplaned, and in a good state
of preservation. The people all looked at the remains, first of
Father Juan Crespi, the first that died, then on the remains of
Father Junipero Serra. The skeletons were in a good state, the
rihs standing out in proper arch, part of the vestment in good
order, also the heavy silk stole which is put only on a priest, in
good order and in one piece, two yards and a half long, with the
silk fringes to it as good as new. We did not raise the coffins,
but only viewed them and their contents to the satisfaction of
all present. We did the same to the four corpses ; anything
more would have been improper, especially as the coffin of the
last buried, the Rev. Father Lasuen, was going to pieces. Then
the tombs were covered as before with stone slabs. The tomb
of Father Junipero Serra, for better security, was filled with
earth, so as to make it more difficult for any vandal to disturb
his resting-place, and over that was placed the stone slab broken
in four pieces."

The discovery of the bodies of Serra, Crespi, Lopez, and
Lasuen aroused some sentiment and interest in Father Cas-
sanova's plan of restoration ; and as he had himself worked
with a devotion that should have produced better results,
sufficient aid came to enable him to properly restore and
roof the building. On the 28th of August, 1884, the re-
dedication took place, and the building was left as it is
found to-day (1905).

It is the earnest desire of the writer of these pages that
all his readers should have a share in completing the work
Father Cassanova began. The roof should be retiled in
the original style. The cost of this will be about two
thousand dollars. If each reader of this book would send
a dollar to the publishers, with the request that it be kept
for this purpose, I am satisfied a tiled roof could be put
on before the end of 1907. And I hereby make appeal to
that end. I will undertake to send an autographed photo-
graph of the restored and retiled Mission (when the work
is done) to all who will contribute a dollar for the purpose
named.

130 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

In the architectural chapter certain interesting things
about San Carlos are noted.

The old pulpit still remains. It is reached by steps from
the sacristy through a doorway in the main side wall. It
is a small and unpretentious structure of wood, with wooden
sounding board above. It rests upon a solid stone pedes-
tal, cut into appropriate shaft and mouldings. The door
is of solid oak, substantially built.

In the sacristy is a double lavatory of solid sandstone,
hewn and arranged for flowing water. It consists of two
basins, one above the other, the latter one well recessed.
The lower basin is structurally curved in front, and the
whole piece is of good and artistic workmanship.

In the neighborhood of San Carlos there are enough
residents to make up a small congregation, and it is the
desire of Father Mestris to establish a parish there, have
a resident minister, and thus restore the old Mission to its
original purpose.

THE PRESIDIO CHURCH AT MONTEREY

Before leaving San Carlos it will be well to explain the
facts in regard to the church at Monterey, elsewhere pic-
tured in these pages. Many errors have been perpetuated
about this church. It is not properly a Mission, though
dating back to Mission days.

In the establishment of the Missions, as has been shown,
the presidios were founded to be a means of protection
to the padres in their work of civilizing and christianizing
the natives. These presidios were at San Diego, Monterey,
San Francisco, and Santa Barbara. Each was supposed
to have its own church or chapel, and the original inten-
tion was that each should likewise have its own resident
priest. For purposes of economy, however, this was not
done, and the mission padres were called upon for this
service, though it was often a source of disagreement

SAN CARLOS BOllROMEO 131

between the military and the missionaries. The Monterey
church is the successor to the old presidio chapel. I have
been unable to learn when it was built, but about fifty years
ago Governor Pacheco donated the funds for its enlarge-
ment. The original building was extended back a number
of feet, and an addition made, which makes the church of
cruciform shape, the original building being the long arm
of the cross. It is in the two walls of this addition — one
on the left and one on the right — that the two ornate
doorways elsewhere presented are placed. The walls are
built of sandstone rudely quarried at the rear of the
church.

The view from this church is now destroyed by the pres-
ence immediately before it of the school, conducted by the
sisters of St. Joseph, but it formerly must have been com-
manding. It stands about half a mile from the bay, the
deep blue waters and far-away hills of the Coast Range,
the verdure-clad sandhills below and near by, combining
with the long stretch of gray sand of the beach to make
an unusually lovely setting in a country full of beauty.
To the left are the pine-clad hills, and to the rear and
beyond, the foothills of the Gabilan Range. The Mission
faces almost north ; the old town of Monterey nestles in the
lower folds of the hills which rise to the west, on the point
of which, nearest to the sea, the Sloat monument is slowly
rising.

Here are a large number of interesting relics and
memorials of Serra and the early Mission days. Some
are described in the chapters on Saints, Woodwork, and
Silverware.

Another interesting relic is a reliquary case, made by
an Indian at San Carlos to hold certain valuable relics
which Serra highly prized. Some of these are bones from
the Catacombs, and an Agnus Dei of wax. Serra himself
wrote the list of contents on a slip of paper, which is still
intact on the back of the case. This reliquary used to be

132 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

carried in procession by Serra on each 4th of November,
and is now used by Father Mestris in like ceremonials.

In the altar space or sanctuary are five chairs, undoubt-
edly brought to California by one of the Philippine galleons
from one of those islands, or from China. The bodies are
of teak, ebony, or iron wood, with seats of marble, and with
a disk of marble in the back.

In the sacristy is the safe in which Serra used to keep
the sacred vessels, as well as the important papers con-
nected with his office. It is an interesting object, sheeted
with iron, wrapped around with iron bands and covered
all over with bosses. It is about three feet wide and four
feet high. In the drawers close by are several of the copes,
stoles, maniples, and other vestments which were once used
by Serra at the old Mission.

SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA 133

CHAPTER VIII

SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA

THE third Mission of the series was founded in
honor of San Antonio de Padua, July 14, 1771,
by Serra, accompanied by Padres Pieras and
Sit jar. One solitary Indian heard the dedicatory mass, but
Serra's enthusiasm knew no bounds. He was assured thab
this " first fruit of the wilderness " would go forth and
bring many of his companions to the priests. Immediately
after the mass he hastened to the Indian, lavished much
attention on him, and gave him gifts. That same day
many other Indians came and clearly indicated a desire to
stay with such pleasant company. They brought pine-
nuts and acorns, and the padres gave them in exchange
strings of glass beads of various colors.

At once buildings were begun, in which work the Indians
engaged with energy, and soon church and dwellings, sur-
rounded by a palisade, were completed. From the first the
Indians manifested confidence in the padi'es, and the fifteen
days that Padre Serra remained were days of intense joy
and gladness at seeing the readiness of the natives to asso-
ciate with him and his brother priests. Without delay they
began to learn the language of the Indians, and when they
had made sufficient progress they devoted much time to
catechising them. In two years 158 natives were baptized
and enrolled, and instead of relying upon the missionaries
for food, they brought in large quantities of acorns, pine-
nuts, squirrels, and rabbits. The Mission being located in
the heart of the mountains, where pine and oak trees grew
luxuriantly, the pine-nut and acorn were abundant. Be-

134 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

fore the end of 1773 the church and dwellings were all
built, of adobe, and three soldiers, who had married native
women, were living in separate houses.

In August of 1774 occurred the first trouble. The gen-
tile Indians, angered at the progress of the Mission and
the gathering in of so many of their people, attacked the
Mission and wounded an Indian about to be baptized.
When the news reached Rivera at Monterey, he sent a
squad of soldiers, who captured the culprits, gave them
a flogging, and imprisoned them. Later they were flogged
again, and, after a few days in the stocks, they were
released.

In 1779 an alcalde and regidore were chosen from the
natives to assist in the administration of justice. In 1800
the report shows that the neophyte population was 1118,
with 767 baptisms and 656 deaths. The cattle and horses
had decreased from 2232 of the last report to 2217, but
small stock had slightly increased. In 1787 the church
was regarded as the best in California, though it was much
improved later, for in 1797 it is stated that it was of adobes
with a tiled roof. In 1793 the large adobe block, eighty
varas long and one vara wide, was constructed for friars'
houses, church and storehouse, and it was doubtless this
church that was tiled four years later.

In 1805 it gained its highest population, there being
1296 Indians under its control. The lands of the Mission
were found to be barren, necessitating frequent changes
in cultivated fields and stock ranges.

In 1808 the venerable Buenaventura Sit jar, one of the
founders of the Mission, and who had toiled there con-
tinuously for thirty-seven years, passed to his reward, and
was buried in sight of the hills he had loved so long. The
following year, or in 1810, work was begun on a newer and
larger church of adobes, and this is doubtless the building
the ruins of which remain. Though we have no record of
its dedication, there is no question but that it took place

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SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA 135

prior to 1820, and in 1830 references are made to its
arched corridors, etc., built of brick. Robinson, who vis-
ited it in this year, says the whole Mission is built of brick,
but in this he is in error. The fachada is of brick, as is
shown in the chapter on architecture, but the main part
of the building is of adobe. Robinson speaks thus of the
Mission and its friar: "Padre Pedro Cabot, the present
missionary director, I found to be a fine, noble-looking
man, whose manner and whole deportment would have led
one to suppose he had been bred in the courts of Europe,
rather than in the cloister. Everything was in the most
perfect order: the Indians cleanly and well dressed, the
apartments tidy, the workshops, granaries, and store-
houses comfortable and in good keeping."

In 1834 Cabot retired to give place to Padre Jesus
Maria Vasquez del Mercado, one of the newly arrived
Franciscans from Zacatecas. In this year the neophyte
population had dwindled to 567, and five years later Vis-
itador Hartwell found only 270 living at the Mission and
its adjoining ranches. It is possible, however, that there
were fully as many more living at a distance of whom he
gained no knowledge, as the official report for 1840 gives
500 neophytes.

Manuel Crespo was the comisionado for secularization
in 1835, and he and Padre Mercado had no happy times
together. Mercado made it so unpleasant that six other
administrators were appointed in order to please him, but
it was a vain attempt. As a consequence, the Indians felt
the disturbances and discord, and became discontented and
unmanageable.

The inventories required by the secularization decrees
show that September 10, 1835, the produce, implements,
furniture, and goods were valued at $7883. Another in-
ventory, dated April 27, 1836, says: Credits (whatever
that means, supposedly accounts owing to the Mission),
$18,642; buildings, $11,197 ; vineyards, implements, fur-

136 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

niture, and goods in store, $22,671 ; 8 ranches, $32,834 ;
live-stock, $1000; total, $93,122, besides church property,
$7617 ; but there should be deducted $16,886 for property
distributed among the Indians. On Hartwell's visit he
reported the Mission accounts in sad confusion (no wonder,
seven administrators in half that number of years), and the
Indians full of complaints. At San Bernabe was a " gente
de razon," who was responsible for much disease among
the natives. Alas ! not only ruin to the Mission, but de-
moralization and destruction to the Indians had already
set in.

In 1843, according to Governor Micheltorena's order of
March 29, the temporal control of the Mission was restored
to the padre. But, though the order was a kindly one, and
relieved the padre from the interference of officious, med-
dling, inefficient, and dishonest " administrators," it was
too late to effect any real service.

As far as I can learn, Pico's plan did not affect San
Antonio, and it was not one of those sold by him in 1845-6.
In 1848 Padre Doroteo Ambris was in charge as curate.
For thirty years he remained here, true to his calling, an
entirely different kind of man from the quarrelsome, arro-
gant, drinking, and gambling Mercado. He finally died
at San Antonio, and was buried in the Mission he guarded
so well.

At his death there was no pastor who could be sent to
take charge, and the few remaining Indians and whites
had to be content with such services as the priests from
San Miguel and casual visitors could render. These were
not always of the best. One of the residents of Jolon in-
formed me of one of them, who, after mass, drank more
than was good for him, retreated in disgrace, and left one
of the old manuals of the Mission in his room, which it
was evident he intended to take away with him.

San Antonio appeals to me more than any other of the
Missions. There is a pathetic dignity about the ruins,

SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA 137

an unexpressed claim for sympathy in the perfect solitude
of the place that is almost overpowering. In the whirl of
railroading San Antonio has been completely sidetracked,

— far more so than San Juan Bautista, — and, unlike
San Juan, it stands out in the fields, alone, deserted, for-
gotten. Across the way from San Juan is a hotel, across
from San Antonio there is nothing; indeed, there is no
across, for there is not traffic enough to make a way. Here
is what I wrote in the shadow of the walls that still stand,
one exquisite Sunday in May of 1904 : Oh, the infinitude
of care and patience and work and love shown in this
old building. Everything was well and beautifully done ;
it is so evidently a work of love and pride. This builder
was architect and lover, maker of history and poet, for
power, strength, beauty, and tenderness are revealed on
every hand. Every arch is perfect; every detail in har-
mony with every other ; and in location and general sur-
roundings it is ideal. San Antonio Creek is at the rear,

— exquisite views of fertile valley, rolling foothills, and
tree-covered mountains on every side. It is enclosed in a
picturesque bower of beauty, — God's quiet nook in His
great out-of-doors.

And all, now, is silent and deserted. Birds fly in and
out, and sing in the towers that once sent forth sweet
sounds of evening bell. Horses wander up and down the
corridors where monks were wont to tell their beads, and
even the monastery, consecrated by prayers, songs, and
the holy toil of daily labor, and the rooms in which Indian
maidens and youths learned the handicrafts of the white
man, are now used as places of shade for the cattle that
roam through the valley.

Inside the ruined church all is still. There is no droning;
voice of drowsy padre intoning his early morning mass ; no
resounding note of the same padre's* voice when fired with
martial ardor, as soldier of the Cross, preaching to In-
dians whose souls have been imperilled by some recent re-

138 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

lapse. All, all is silent ! In the surrounding ruins where
once was heard the ring of iron and hammer on anvil, the
saw and plane on wood, the tap of the hammer on leather,
the scrape of the tool on hide, the cutting of the graver
on wood, and the busy, hum of active workers of every kind,
— everything now is hushed and still. The olive-oil mill is
dismantled ; its standards gone ; only two of the olive trees
remain ; the fields no longer see the Indians ; the plough is
idle; the rancherias are deserted. Like a gray-haired
mother of sons and daughters, whose life-work is accom-
plished, and who sits in her capacious arm-chair awaiting the
last summons, so seems San Antonio to sit, calm and serene
among the hills, silently voicing the questions : " Have I,
too, not accomplished? May I not also pass in peace? ';

At Jolon is the old stage station and hotel, owned for
many years by George C. Dutton, cousin of Clarence Dut-
ton, whose prose poems on the Grand Canyon I have always
regarded as among the classics of the English language.
During the past years Mr. Dutton has seen San Antonio's
slow degradation and demolition. The illustration elsewhere
shown pictures it as he remembers it, with roof still on, pul-
pit in place, altar, statues, confessionals, benches, chairs, —
all there. Now, alas ! what is it but a " shapeless cairn."
Roofless and dismantled, Nature and Humanity have both
buffeted the sacred building. The owls and bats have
long made it their nesting place, and Man has despoiled
it of everything portable. To save somewhat from the
general pillage, Mr. Dutton brought to a room of safety
a few of the more important objects, which he now holds
ready to turn over to the proper authorities on demand.

In 1904 the California Historic Landmarks League
(Inc.) undertook the preservation of San Antonio, and on
my visit there in 1904 lumber was on the ground for roof-
ing it. A little work had already been accomplished, but
much more is immediately necessary if the walls are to be
kept from falling.

SAN GABRIEL ARCANGEL 139

CHAPTER IX

SAN GABRIEL, ARCANGEL

WE have already seen that San Gabriel, the fourth
Mission, was founded September 8, 1771. The
natives gave cheerful assistance in bringing
timber, erecting the wooden buildings, covering them with
tules, and constructing the stockade enclosure which sur-
rounded them. They also brought offerings of acorns and
pine-nuts. In a few days so many of them crowded into
camp that Padre Somero went to San Diego for an addi-
tion to the guard, and returned with two extra men. It
was not long before the soldiers got into trouble, owing
to their treatment of the Indian women, and an Indian
attack, as before related, took place. A few days later,
Fages appeared on the scene from San Diego with sixteen
soldiers and two missionaries, who were destined as guard
and priests for the new Mission of San Buenaventura.
But the difficulty with the Indians led Fages to postpone
the founding of the new Mission. The offending soldier
was hurried off to Monterey to get him out of the way of
further trouble. The padres did their best to correct the
evil impression the soldiers had created, and, strange to
say, the first child brought for baptism was the son of the
chief who had been killed in the dispute with the soldiers.

But the San Gabriel soldiers were not to be controlled.
They were insolent to the aged priests, who were in ill-
health ; they abused the Indians so far as to pursue them
to their rancherfas " for the fun of the thing " ; and there
have additional sport by lassoing the women and kill-
ing such men as interfered with their lusts. No wonder

140 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

Serra's heart was heavy when he heard the news, and that
he attributed the small number of baptisms — only seventy-
three in two years — to the wickedness of the men who
should have aided instead of hindering the work.

In his first report to Mexico, Serra tells of the Indian
population around San Gabriel. He says it was larger
than at any other Mission, though, unfortunately, of sev-
eral different tribes who were at war with one another ; and
the tribes nearest to the sea would not allow others to fish,
so that they were often in great want of food. Of the pros-
pects for agriculture he was most enthusiastic. The loca-
tion was a well-watered plain, with plenty of water and
natural facilities for irrigation ; and though the first
year's crop was drowned out, the second produced one hun-
dred and thirty fanegas of maize and seven fanegas of
beans. The buildings erected were of the same general
character as those already described at San Carlos, though
somewhat smaller.

When Captain Anza reached California from Sonora,
by way of the Colorado, on his first trip in 1774, accom-
panied by Padre Garces, he stayed for awhile to recuperate
at San Gabriel ; and when he came the second time, with the
colonists for the new presidio of San Francisco, San Ga-
briel was their first real stopping place after that long,
weary, and arduous journey across the sandy deserts of
Arizona and California. Here Anza met Rivera, who had
arrived the day before from Monterey. It will be remem-
bered that just at that time the news came of the Indian
uprising at San Diego ; so, leaving his main force and the
immigrants to recuperate, he and seventeen of his soldiers,
with Padre Font, started with Rivera for the South. This
was in January, 1776. He and Rivera did not agree as to
the best methods to be followed in dealing with the trouble-
some Indians ; so, when advices reached him from San Ga-
briel that provisions were giving out, he decided to allow
Rivera to follow his own plans, and that, as for him, he

SAN GABRIEL ARCANGEL 141

would return to the North and do the work for which he
came. When he arrived at San Gabriel, February 12, he
found that three of his muleteers, a servant, and a soldier
belonging to the Mission had deserted, taking with them
twenty-five horses and a quantity of Mission property. His
ensign, Moraga, was sent after the deserters ; but, as he
did not return as soon as was expected, Anza started
with his band of colonists for the future San Francisco,
where they duly arrived, as is recorded in the San Fran-
cisco chapter.

In 1777-8 the Indians were exceedingly troublesome,
and on one occasion came in large force, armed, to avenge
some outrage the soldiers had perpetrated. The padres
met them with a shining image of Our Lady, when, imme-
diately, they were subdued, and knelt, weeping, at the feet
of the priests.

In 1779 Indians were chosen as alcaldes and regidores
to aid in the administration of discipline. The same year
the crops were large, as it is reported that they had 2000
bushels of surplus maize.

Being the natural meeting place for overland parties
coming from the peninsula northwards, and from Sonora
west and noi'th, San Gabriel was made the rendezvous of
all the colonizing expeditions. When Neve's recommenda-
tions for the founding of the so-called Channel Missions
were being carried out, a party of colonists, consisting of
thirty-five soldiers and thirty families, arrived at San Ga-
briel by way of the Colorado River from Sonora, on July
14, 1781 ; and on August 18 of the same year another
party, which had come from Mexico by crossing the Gulf
at Guaymas and up the peninsula, consisting of seventeen
men, probably soldiers, and eleven settlers and their families
also arrived. As some of the children of the latter band
had recently had smallpox, they were quarantined at a dis-
tance of a league from the Mission as a preventive meas-
ure. On the 26th of August Governor Neve issued, at San

142 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

Gabriel, his instructions for founding the pueblo of La
Reina de los Angeles. The impossibility of transporting
needed supplies and making necessary preparations before
the rainy season set in compelled delay in founding the
channel settlements. The return of Ensign Limon, — the
officer who, with his nine soldiers had escorted the settlers
from the Colorado River to San Gabriel, and had then
started back for Sonora, but had been attacked by hostile
Yuma Indians and two of his men killed and himself
wounded, — while causing great excitement, gave no rea-
son for a delay in proceeding with the founding of Los
Angeles, so that on September 4 it was formally accom-
plished. In 1782 the council determined to punish the mur-
derous Yumas, and, accordingly, plans were laid with a
great deal of official red tape, but practically nothing was
done until August 21, when Governor Neve set out from
San Gabriel with Fages and sixty men. Three days before
reaching the river, despatches reached Fages which led him
to return and assume the duties of governor, to which
office he had just been appointed, while Neve proceeded to
Sonora to assume his new and higher office. Captain
Romeu, who had come from Sonora with one hundred and
eight men, was left to chastise the Yumas ; but, after a few
days' skirmish, in which a few Indians were killed, the
place was abandoned, as far as the Spaniards were con-
cerned, practically forever.

During the whole of this time, the forces that were to
be employed at the new Channel Missions had been quar-
tered at San Gabriel, giving quite a martial appearance
to the place. In the spring of 1782, however, they moved,
and established Santa Barbara.

In 1784 the venerable Serra, on a tour to all the Mis-
sions, stopped at San Gabriel, and there was so ill that his
end was daily expected. But he rallied and succeeded in
returning to San Carlos, where he died. In 1790 the num-
ber of neophytes had increased from 638, in 1783, to 1040 ;

SAN GABRIEL ARCANGEL 143

large stock from 860 to 4221, and small stock from 2070
to 6013. The harvest in the year 1790 was 6150 bushels.
In 1800 it had 9400 bushels.

Gigcdo, speaking of the condition of affairs at the close
of the eighteenth century, says of the Colorado River and
San Gabriel:

" This point and the Mission of San Gabriel form the circle
within which swarm pagan Indians, who may be persuaded to
accept our holy religion and the mild dominion of our sovereign,
and so contribute to the important object of making the penin-
sula of the Californias one of the most respectable colonies on
the frontier of New Spain."

But Fate decreed otherwise of the Colorado River, and the
Indians at San Gabriel, having more or less contact with
those of the Colorado and the Mohave regions, and, doubt-
less being incited to lawlessness by these unsubjugated
peoples, gave considerable trouble to the Spaniards. Neo-
phytes conspired with gentiles, and the Mission storehouse
was robbed, cattle and horses driven off. In 1810 the
padres report that a force of 800 hostile Indians of the
Mohave and Yuma tribes marched to San Gabriel with
the avowed intention of destroying it and San Fernando,
but the timely arrival of forces prevented the attack.

In October, 1785, trouble was caused by a woman tempt-
ing (so they said) the neophytes and gentiles to attack the
Mission and kill the padres. The plot was discovered, and
the corporal in command captured some twenty of the
leaders and quelled the uprising without bloodshed. Four
of the ringleaders were imprisoned, the others whipped with
fifteen or twenty lashes each, and released. The woman
was sentenced to perpetual exile, and possibly shipped off
to one of the peninsida Missions.

In 1810 the settlers at Los Angeles complained to the
Governor that the San Gabriel padres had dammed up the
river at Cahuenga, thus cutting off their water supply ;

144 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

and they also stated that the padres refused to attend to
the spiritual wants of their sick. The padres offered to
remove the dam if the settlers were injured thereby, and
also claimed that they were always glad to attend to the
sick when their own pressing duties allowed.

On January 14, 1811, Padre Francisco Dumetz, one of
Serra's original compadres, died at San Gabriel. At this
time, and since 1806, Padre Jose Maria Zalvidea, that
strict martinet of padres, was in charge, and he brought it
up to its highest state of efficiency. He it was who began
the erection of the stone church that now remains, and the
whole precinct, during his rule, rang with the busy ham-
mer, clatter, chatter, and movement of a large number of
active workers.

It was doubtless owing to the earthquake of December
8, 1812, which occurred at sunrise, that a new church was
built. The main altar was overthrown, several of the
figures broken, the steeple toppled over and crashed to
the ground, and the sacristy walls were badly cracked. The
padres' house as well as all the other buildings suffered.

One of the adjuncts to San Gabriel was El Molino Vie jo,
— the old mill. Indeed there were two old mills, the first
one, however, built in Padre Zalvidea's time in 1810 to
1812, being the one that now remains. It is about two miles
from the Mission. It had to be abandoned on account of
faulty location. Being built on the hillside, its west main
wall was the wall of the deep funnel-shaped cisterns which
furnished the water head. This made the interior damp.
Then, too, the chamber in which the water-wheel revolved
was so low that the powerful head of water striking the
horizontal wheel would splash all over the walls and work
up through the shaft holes to the mill stones and thus wet
the flour. This necessitated the constant presence of In-
dian women to carry away the meal to dry storerooms at
the Mission, where it was bolted by a hand process of their
own devising. On this account the mill was abandoned, and

SAN GABRIEL ARCANGEL 145

for several years the whole of the meal for the Mission was
ground on the old-style metates.

The main building is 24 by 55 feet, with walls of solid
masonry nearly five feet thick at the base and sloping to
a little over three feet at the top, and resting on a founda-
tion of stone and cement. There were two great arches in
the lower story (east front), where the water-wheel was
placed. The south wheel-chamber was never used. An
earthquake in 1812 cracked the north fore-bay, and thus
rendered it useless as a water storage. The water was
conveyed from Los Robles Canyon in a ditch to the fore-
bay, which is a funnel-shaped cement cistern, 12 feet deep.
From the bottom of this cistern a narrow spout-flume ex-
tended through the thick stone wall into the brick-arched
wheel-chamber, and the water poured through the spout
horizontally against the buckets of the water-wheel. The
water from Mill Canyon was also brought in by ditch.
After its use here the water flowed into the dam below,
where it was used again for power to operate a saw-mill,
also erected by the indefatigable Zalvidea. The grinding
stones of the old mill were 2 \ feet in diameter and 7 to 8
inches thick, and are now used as a horse-block at San Ma-
rino, the residence of the Hon. J. De Barth Shorb. From
under the buttress at the northeast corner of the mill, in
the wheel-chamber, flows a tiny stream of water, and many
writers have made much mystery out of this. When all the
circumstances are considered the mystery is easily solved.
The San Gabriel Indians were all made to work by Padre
Zalvidea, who, being austere with himself, was austere with
all who were in his keeping. There were about thirty
classes of workers, all under the direction of the famous
mayor domo, Claudio Lopez. Claudio appointed his dep-
uties, who took actual charge of the bands, armed with
bull-whips made of strips of rawhide, which they did not
hesitate to use if any of the men and women failed to do
their allotted tasks. This harsh treatment led to frequent

146 THE OLD MISSIONS OE CALIFORNIA

escapes into the mountains, where the aggrieved Indians
would organize into bands of hostiles. Uprisings, attacks,
murders were not entire strangers to the padres, so Zal-
videa made both his Mission and the mill strong enough for
fortresses of defence in case of need. And lest they should
be so needed, he wisely provided a supply of water by
means of this cunningly devised water-way. Fortunately it
was never needed.

In 1859 Col. E. J. C. Kewen, one of the members of the
noted Walker filibustering expedition, and an ex-attorney-
general of California, bought the old mill and converted it
into a comfortable residence; but at his death in 1879 it
was abandoned and its later owner used it as a bunk-house
for tools, etc.

The region adjacent t© the mill was once largely in-
habited by Indians, for the foreman of the mill ranch de-
clares that he has hauled from the adjacent bluff as many
stone pestles and mortars, metates and grinders as would
load a four-horse wagon.

It should not be forgotten that originally the mill was
roofed wjth red tiles made by the Indians at the Mission ;
but these have entirely disappeared.

It was the habit of Padre Zalvidea to regularly send
certain of his most trusted neophytes over to the Islands
of San Clemente and Catalina with a bolt or two of woven
serge, made at the Mission San Gabriel, to exchange with
the Island Indians for their soapstone cooking vessels,
— mortars, etc. These traders invariably embarked from
a point where Redondo now is, and started always at
midnight.

In 1819 the Indians of the Guachama rancho, called San
Bernardino, petitioned for the introduction of agriculture
and stock raising, and this was practically the beginning
of that asistencia, as will be recorded in the chapter on the
various chapels. A chapel was also much needed at Puente,
where Zalvidea had six hundred Indians at work in 1816.

SAN GABRIEL ARCANGEL 147

In 1822 San Gabriel was fearfully alarmed at the rumor
that one hundred and fifty Indians were bearing down
upon that Mission from the Colorado River region. It
transpired that it was a band of Opatas with despatches,
and that they had no hostile intent. But Captain Portilla
met them and sent them back, not a little disconcerted by
their inhospitable reception.

In the wild, political chaos that occurred in California
after Mexico became independent of Spain, San Gabriel
felt occasional waves. When the people of San Diego and
the southern part of the State rebelled against Governor
Victoria, and the latter confident chief came to arrange
matters, a battle took place near Los Angeles, in which he
was severely wounded. His friends bore him to San Ga-
briel, and, though he had entirely defeated his foes, so
cleverly did some one work upon his fears that he made a
formal surrender, December 6, 1881. On the 9th the
leader of the rebels, the former governor Echeandia, had
a conference with him at San Gabriel, where he pledged
himself to return to Mexico without giving further trouble ;
and on the 20th he left, stopping for awhile at San Luis
Rey with Padre Peyri. It was at this time the venerable
and worthy Peyri decided to leave California, and he there-
fore accompanied the deposed governor to San Diego, from
which port they sailed January 17, 1832.

After secularization San Gabriel was one oi* tJhe Mis-
sions that slaughtered a large number of her cattle for
the hides and tallow. Pio Pico states that he had the con-
tract at San Gabriel, employing 10 vaqueros and 30 In-
dians, and that he thus killed over 5000 head. Robinson
says that the rascally contractors secretly appropriated
two hides for every one they turned over to the Mission.

In 1834 occurred the destruction of the chapel at San
Bernardino, and the survivors fleeing to San Gabriel
brought a considerable feeling of unrest ; but the uprising
was quelled, as is related in the chapter on chapels.

148 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

In this year Colonel Gutierrez was the comisionado to
carry into effect the order of secularization ; but up to
1838 he had three successors, and when, in 1840, the last
administrator, Juan Bandini, handed over the live-stock
there were but 72 cattle and 700 sheep, though in 1839
there were 1700 horses, 1100 cattle, and 1000 sheep.

The old registers practically close in 1831, and they
state that from 1771 there had been 7709 baptisms, 5494
burials, and 1877 marriages.

In 1843, March 29, Micheltorena's order, restoring San
Gabriel to the padres, was carried out, and in 1844 the
official church report states that nothing is left but its
vineyards in a sad condition, and 300 neophytes. The final
inventory made by the comisionados under Pio Pico is miss-
ing, so that we do not know at what the Mission was val-
ued ; but June 8, 1846, he sold the whole property to Reid
and Workman in payment for past services to the govern-
ment. When attacked for his participation in what evi-
dently seemed the fraudulent transfer of the Mission, Pico
replied that the sale " did not go through." The United
States officers, in August of the same year, dispossessed
them, and the courts finally decreed the sale invalid.

In 1847 Padre Estenega died, and Bias de Ordaz was
appointed. He died in 1850, and since then the church has
been a regular parish church, under the direction of the
bishop of the diocese.

There are a few portions of the old cactus hedge still
remaining, planted by Padre Zalvidea. Several hundreds
of acres of vineyard and garden were thus enclosed for
purposes of protection from Indians and roaming bands of
horses and cattle. The fruit of the prickly pear was a
prized article of diet by the Indians, so that the hedge was
of benefit in two ways, — protection and food.

The Mission church is nearly 140 feet long, 26 feet
wide, and 30 feet high, inside measurement. The founda-
tions and walls are of rubble stones and cement as far as

SAN GABRIEL ARCANGEL 149

the windows ; above that brick is used. At the floor the
walls are five feet thick. Originally the building had an
arched roof, but this was partially destroyed in one of the
earthquakes and a tile roof substituted in its stead.

On the altar are several of the old statues, and there are
some quaint pictures upon the walls.

In the baptistery is a font of hammered copper, probably
made either at San Gabriel or San Fernando. There are
several other interesting vessels. At the rear of the church
are the remains of five brick structures, where the soap
making and tallow rendering of the Mission was conducted.
Five others were removed a few years ago to make way for
the public road. Undoubtedly there were other buildings
for the women and male neophytes as well as the workshops.

The San Gabriel belfry is well known in picture, song,
and story. Yet the fanciful legends about the casting of
the bells give way to stern fact when they are examined.
Upon the first bell is the inscription : " Ave Maria Santis-
ima. S. Francisco. De Paula Rvelas, me fecit." The
second: "Cast by G. H. Holbrook, Medway, Mass.,
1828." The third: "Ave Maria, Sn Jvan Nepomvseno,
Ruelas me fecit, A. D., '95." The fourth: " Fecit Benitvs
a Regibvs, Ano D. 1830, Sn. Frano."

In the year 1886 a number of needed repairs were made;
the windows were enlarged, and a new ceiling put in, the
latter a most incongruous piece of work.

150 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER X

SAN LUIS, OBISPO DE TOLOSA

FOUNDED, as we have seen, by Serra himself,
September 1, 1772, by the end of 1773 it could
report only twelve converts. Serra left the day
after the founding, leaving Padre Cavalier in charge, with
two Indians from Lower California, four soldiers and their
corporal. Their only provisions were a few hundred
pounds of flour and wheat, and a barrel of brown sugar.
But the Indians were kind, in remembrance of Fages's good-
ness in shooting the bears, and brought them venison and
seeds frequently, so they " managed to subsist " until pro-
visions came.

Padre Cavalier built a neat chapel of logs and apart-
ments for the missionaries, and the soldiers soon erected
their own barracks. While the Indians were friendly they
did not seem to be particularly attracted to the Mission,
as they had more and better food than the padre, and
the only thing he had that they particularly desired was
cloth. There was no rancheria in the vicinity, but they
were much interested in the growth of the corn and beans
sown by the padre, and which, being on good and well-
watered land, yielded abundantly.

In 1776 certain gentiles, who were hostile to some In-
dians who were sheltered by the padres, attacked the Mis-
sion by discharging burning arrows upon the tule roof of
the buildings, and everything was destroyed, save the
church and the granary. Rivera came at once, captured
two of the ringleaders, and sent them for punishment to
the Monterey presidio. The success of the gentiles on this

Plate XXIV

SIX ARCHES \ I SAW .11 W CAPISTRAKO

THE

NEW YORK
'PUBL

Astor i fiiden ,

SAN LUIS OBISPO DE TOLOSA 151

occasion led them to repeat it by setting fire to the Mission
twice during the next ten years, and it was these calamities
that led one of the San Luis padres to attempt the making
of roof tiles. Being successful, it was not long before all
the Missions were so roofed.

In 1794 certain of the neophytes of San Luis and La
Purisima conspired with some gentiles to incite the In-
dians at San Luis to revolt, but the arrest and deportation
of fifteen or twenty of the ringleaders to Monterey, to hard
labor at the presidio, put a stop to the revolt.

Padres Lasuen and Tapis both served here as mission-
aries, and in 1798 Luis Antonio Martinez, one of the best
known of the padres, began his long term of service at San
Luis. In 1794 the Mission reached its highest population
of 946 souls. It had 6500 head of cattle and horses, 6150
sheep. In 1798 it raised 4100 bushels of wheat, and in
this same year a water-power mill was erected and set in
motion. San Luis was also favored by the presence of a
smith, a miller, and a carpenter of the artisan instructors,
sent by the King in 1794. Looms were erected, and cotton
brought up from San Bias was woven. A new church of
adobes, with a tile roof, was completed in 1793, and that
same year a portico was added to its front.

In 1818, when Bouchard, the South American revolu-
tionist, came North to harass the California coast, he
stopped at Refugio, a sea-coast rancho about opposite to
San Luis. A force was at once raised to go and drive off
the " pirates," and Padre Martinez rose from a sick bed
to lead thirty-five of his neophytes to the scene of action.
After the destruction of the ranch house Bouchard sailed
for Santa Barbara, leaving three of his men, however,
prisoners in the hands of the Spaniards.

A little prior to this time, Martinez visited the Indians
of the great valley of the Tulares, and found them willing
to have a Mission established; and had not controversy
arisen on the question of the presence of soldiers, it is pos-

152 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

sible the San Joaquin Valley would have had several Mis-
sions established in the course of a few years.

To the sailors and traders along the coast early in the
century, few figures were better known and better liked
than that of the picturesque Padre Luis Martinez. "Portly
of figure and gruff of speech" he was jolly, hail-fellow-
well-met, hospitable, and, if reports and suspicions count
for anything, always ready to trade for his own advan-
tage. Anyhow, in the spring of 1830, on the charge of
smuggling, he was banished, and, with many tears and
much regret, he was compelled to say farewell to the Mis-
sion he so much loved, and the Indians he had sought to
benefit, to return in disgrace to old Madrid, where he spent
the remainder of his days.

" H. H.," in Ramona, in describing the wedding tour and
festivities of General and Senora Moreno, tells a good
story winch perfectly illustrates the jolly character of
Padre Martinez. She says:

" On the morning of their departure, the good padre, having
exhausted all his resources for entertaining his distinguished
guests, caused to be driven past the corridors for their inspec-
tion, all the poultry belonging to the Mission. The procession
took an hour to pass. For music there was squeaking, cackling,
hissing, gobbling, crowing, and quacking of the fowls, combined
with the screaming, scolding, and whip-cracking of the excited
Indian marshals of the lines. First came the turkeys, then the
roosters, then the white hens, then the black, and then the
yellow ; next the ducks, and at the tail of the spectacle long
files of geese, some struggling, some half flying and hissing in
resentment and terror at the unwonted coercion to which they
were subjected. The Indians had been hard at work all night
capturing, sorting, assorting, and guarding the rank and file of
their novel pageant. It would be safe to say that a droller
sight never was seen, and never will be, on the Pacific coast or
any other. Before it was done with, the General and his bride
had nearly died with laughter; and the General could never
allude to it without laughing almost as heartily again."

SAN LUIS OBISPO DE TOLOSA 153

At the time of Martinez's banishment the buildings at
San Luis were already falling into decay, as the padre,
with far-seeing eye, was assured that the politicians had
nothing but evil in store for them. Consequently, he did
not keep up things as he otherwise would have done. He
was an outspoken, frank, fearless man, and this undoubt-
edly led to his being chosen as the example necessary to
restrain the other padres from too great freedom of speech
and manner.

In 1834 San Luis had 264 neophytes, though after sec-
ularization the number was gradually reduced until, in
1840, there were but 170 left. The order of seculariza-
tion was put into effect in 1835 by Manuel Jimeno Casarin.
The inventory of the property in 1836 showed $70,000.
In 1839 it was $60,000. In 1840 all the horses were
stolen by " New Mexican traders," one report alone telling
of the driving away of 1200 head. The officers at Los
Angeles went in pursuit of the thieves and one party
reported that it came in full sight of the foe retiring
deliberately with the stolen animals, but, as there were as
many Americans as Indians in the band they deemed it
imprudent to risk a conflict.

In 1842 a distribution of land to the most worthy
neophytes took place ; one, named Odon, receiving 75
varas of land, the house occupied by him, a copper pot
and two troughs. The fruit of the trees on his land, how-
ever, was to remain community property.

Two years later the report of the padre presidente
Duran states that at San Luis there are neither lands,
nor cattle, and its neophytes are scattered for want of a
minister. It had been completely secularized by Michel-
toi-ena's decree in 1843, converted into a pueblo, the
neophytes freed, the Mission house turned into a par-
sonage, and the other buildings dedicated to public uses.

June 5, 1845, saw Pio Pico's decree issued offering
San Luis for sale, and December 4 it was sold to Scott,

154 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

Wilson, and McKinley for $510, and this ended its history
as a Mission.

In December of 1846, when Fremont was marching
south to co-operate with Stockton against the Southern
Californians, San Luis was thought to harbor an armed
force of hostiles. Accordingly Fremont surrounded it
one dark, rainy night, and took it by sudden assault.
The fears were unfounded, for only women, children, and
non-combatants were found.

In the baptismal register at San Luis Obispo, the first
date of which is in 1772, the original names are given
of many of the rancherias of that Mission, some of which
are still retained in local names to this day. We find
Tchena, Tgmaps, De Qmchechs, De Imipu, Chiminer,
Lteguie, Chofuate, Sespala, Sesjala, Chapule, etc. Bap-
tism 2087 is of an adult about 30 years of age, a native
of Santa Margarita. His name was Csfoczo, and he was
given the Christian name of Juan.

Six miles from San Luis is the Rancho Camado, where
are some hot springs. Opposite these are to be found
remnants of walls. These are ruins of the church of a
vista or asistencia of San Luis, and a padre went regu-
larly from the Mission to say mass for the Indians there.

The Book of Confirmations at San Luis has its intro-
ductory pages written by Serra. There is also a " Nota "
opposite page 3, and a full page note in the back in his
clear, vigorous and distinctive hand.

There are three bells at San Luis Obispo. The thickest
is to the right, the smallest in the centre. On the largest
bell is the following inscription: "Me fecit ano di 1818
Manvel Vargas, Lima. Mision de Sn Luis Obispo De La
Nueba California," this latter in a circumferential panel
about midway between the top and bottom of the bell.
On the middle bell we read the same inscription, while
there is none on the third. This latter was cast in San
Francisco, from two old bells which were broken.

SAN LUIS OBISPO DE TOLOSA 155

From a painting the old San Luis Obispo church is
shown to have been raised up on a stone and cement
foundation. The corridor was without the arches that
are elsewhere one of the distinctive features, but plain
round columns, with a square base and topped with a
plain square moulding gave support to the roof beams
on which the usual red-tiled roof was placed.

The fachada of the church retreats some 15 or 20 feet
from the front line of the corridors. The monastery has
been " restored," even as has the church, out of all resem-
blance to its own honest original self. The adobe walls
are covered with painted wood, and the tiles have given
way to shingles, just like any other modern and common-
place house. The building faces the southeast. The altar
end is at the northwest. To the southwest are the remains
of a building of boulders, brick, and cement, exactly of
the same style as the asistencia building of Santa Mar-
garita. It seems as if it might have been built by the
same hands.

156 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER XI

SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS

THE story of Bucareli's determination to found a
presidio at San Francisco, and Anza's march
with the colonists for it from Sonora, has already
been recounted. When Serra and Galvez were making
their original plans for the establishment of the three
first Missions of Alta California, Serra expressed his
disappointment that St. Francis was neglected by asking:
" And for our founder St. Francis there is no Mission ? "
to which Galvez replied : " If St. Francis desires a Mission,
let him show us his harbor and he shall have one." It
therefore seemed providential that when Portola, Fages,
and Crespf, in 1769, saw the Bay of Monterey they did
not recognize it, and were thus led on further north, where
the great Bay of San Francisco was soon afterwards
discovered and reasonably well surveyed.

As illustrating the way the Spaniards financially cared
for the officers and soldiers of their frontier posts in Alta
California, it is interesting here to note Governor Neve's
provision for the post at San Francisco:

" The annual allowance for the Post of San Francisco shall be
$8027.50, divided in this form :

Annual pay of the Lieutenant $550.00

Ensign 400.00

Sergeant 262.50

4 Corporals at $225 900.00

26 Privates at $217.50 5655.00

Gratuity from Common Fund, $10 each . . 260.00

Total . / $8027.50

SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS 157

To each settler in each of the two first years,

for pay and rations $116.37^

For rations in each of the three following

years, that they may he granted him . . . 60.00

Palou eventually established the Mission October 9,
1776. None of the Indians were present to witness the
ceremony as they had fled, the preceding month, from
the attacks of certain of their enemies. When they re-
turned in December they brought trouble with them.
They stole all in their reach ; one party discharged arrows
at the corporal of the guard ; another insulted a soldier's
wife ; and some other attempted to kill the San Carlos
neophyte who had been brought here. The officer shut
up one of these hostiles, whereat a party of his comrades
rushed to the rescue, fired their arrows at the Mission,
and were only driven back when the soldiers arrived and
fired their muskets in the air. Next day the sergeant
went out to make arrests and another struggle ensued,
in which one was killed and one wounded. All now sued
for peace, which, with sundry floggings, was granted.
For three months they now kept away from the Mission.

In 1777 they began to return, and on October 4 the
Padre Serra, on his first visit, was able to say mass in
the presence of seventeen adult native converts. Then,
passing over to the presidio on October 10, as he stood
gazing on the waters flowing out to the setting sun through
the purple walls of the Golden Gate, he exclaimed with
a heart too full of thanksgiving to be longer restrained:
" Thanks be to God that now our father St. Francis with
the Holy Cross of the Procession of Missions, has reached
the last limit of the Californian continent. To go farther
he must have boats."

General Vallejo states that the temporary building
erected by Palou for a church was about a thousand varas
to the northwest of the present site. The small lake of

158 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

Dolores, from which the Mission gained its popular name,
was near by, but as the city has grown it has been drained,
filled up, and is now built over.

On the 14th of September, 1779, two vessels, originally
from San Bias, on an exploring expedition north, stopped
at San Francisco on their return for six weeks, to recuper-
ate the health of the scurvy-stricken sailors. One of the
captains, Bodega y Cuadra, presented a bronze image of
Nuestra Seiiora de los Remedios to the San Francisco Mis-
sion, and it was placed on the altar with most impressive
ceremonies on the 3d of October. The next day three
natives brought from the northern coast were baptized.
Soon a courier arrived from Sonora, announcing the death
of Viceroy Bucareli, and that war was declared between
Spain and England. This made the vessels leave in haste.

In 1782, April 25, the corner-stone of a new church was
laid at San Francisco. Three padres were present, to-
gether with the Mission guard and a body of troops from
the presidio. In the Mission records it says : '* There was
enclosed in the cavity of said corner-stone the image of our
Holy Father St. Francis, some relics in the form of bones
of St. Pius and other holy martyrs, five medals of various
saints, and a goodly portion of silver coin."

In 1785 Governor Fages complained to the Viceroy,
among other things, that the presidio of San Francisco
had been deprived of mass for three years, notwithstand-
ing the obligation of the friars to serve as chaplains.
Palou replied that the padres were under no obligation to
serve gratuitously, and that they were always ready to
attend the soldiers when their other duties allow.

In November, 1787, Captain Soler, who for a brief time
acted as temporary governor and inspector, suggested that
the presidio of San Francisco be abandoned and its com-
pany transferred to Santa Barbara. Later, as I have
shown elsewhere, a proposition was again made for the
abandonment of San Francisco ; so it is apparent that Fate

SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS 159

herself was protecting it for its future great and wonder-
ful history.

In 1790 San Francisco reported 551 baptisms and 205
deaths, with a present neophyte population of 438. Large
stock had increased to 2000 head and small to 1700.

Three years later, on November 14, the celebrated Eng-
lish navigator, George Vancouver, in his vessel " Discov-
ery," sailed into San Francisco Bay. His arrival caused
quite a flutter of excitement both at the presidio and Mis-
sion, where he was kindly entertained. The Governor was
afraid of this elaborate hospitality to the hated and feared
English, and issued orders to the commandante providing
for a more frigid reception in the future, so, on Van-
couver's second visit, he did not find matters so agreeable,
and grumbled accordingly.

Vancouver gives a description of the Mission buildings,
etc., which is quite interesting. He says that they form
two sides of a square, without any apparent intention of
completing the quadrangle, the architecture and material
being as at the presidio, but the apartments larger, better
constructed, and cleaner. At this time all the roofs were of
thatch, and the dwellings of the Indians were huts of willow
poles, basket-work of twigs, and thatch of grass and tules,
about twelve feet high, six or seven feet in diameter, and
abominably infested with every kind of filth and nastiness.
One large room was occupied by Indians working looms,
making blankets from native wool. " The looms," he says,
" though rudely wrought, were tolerably well contrived,
and had been made by the Indians. The produce is wholly
applied to the clothing of the converted Indians. I saw
some of the cloth, which was by no means despicable ; and,
had it received the advantages of fulling, would have been
a very decent kind of clothing." Borica, however, though
he ordered that Mission blankets should henceforth solely
be used at the presidio, refused to allow the padres to ei'ect
a fulling-mill. A pottery was also established in 1796.

160 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

In March, 1795, certain neophytes having escaped across
the bay from San Francisco, a band of their fellows was
sent to bring them back. After two days of marching this
band was attacked by gentile Indians and eight or ten of
them slain. The Governor condemned the padres for their
action in this matter and refused to avenge the death of
the slain, as the gentiles, though warlike, had hitherto been
friendly. In June, 1797, in spite of the attitude of the
Governor, another party was sent out after runaways, and
the result of this was that the Sacalanes threatened to
attack the Mission San Jose. Sergeant Amador was sent
from San Francisco to investigate, and he reported to the
Governor that these Indians were threatening to kill the
Christians if they continued to work, and the soldiers if
they dared to interfere. The Governor then decided to
teach these haughty savages what it meant to defy the
Spanish power, and a force of twenty-two men was placed
under the orders of Amador to capture the head men of
the tribe, and also bring back the fugitives. In the fight
which ensued two soldiers were wounded and seven natives
killed ; but Amador returned victorious with eighty-three
of the escapes and nine gentiles. Borica was severe with
some of the renegades, condemning them to receive from
twenty-five to seventy-five laslies, and to work in shackles
at the presidio from two months to a year. In the exami-
nation as to the cause of the neophytes running away, they
gave as their reasons excessive flogging, hunger, and the
death of relatives. Padre Danti, one of the padres in
charge at San Francisco, was undoubtedly very harsh and
severe in his treatment of the Indians, but his associate
Fernandez was the very reverse. All were glad when
Danti's term of service expired and he returned to Mexico.

Tiles were made and put on the church roofs in 1795 ;
more houses were built for the neophytes, and all roofed
with tiles. Half a league of ditch was also dug around the
potrero (pasture ground) and fields.

SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS 161

In 1806 San Francisco was enlivened by the presence of
the Russian chamberlain, Rezanof, who had been on a spe-
cial voyage around the world, and was driven by scurvy and
want of provisions to the California settlements. He was
accompanied by Dr. G. H. von Langsdorff, from whom I
have already quoted. Langsdorff' s account of the visit and
reception at several points in California is interesting. He
gives a full description of the Indians and their method of
life at the Mission ; commends the zeal and self-sacrifice of
the padres ; speaks of the ingenuity shown by the women in
making baskets ; the system of allowing the cattle and horses
to run wild, etc. Visiting the Mission of San Jose by boat,
he and his companions had quite an adventurous time get-
ting back, owing to the contrary winds.

In 1810 Moraga, the ensign at the presidio, was sent
with seventeen men to punish the gentiles of the region of
the Carquines Strait, who for several years had been har-
rassing the neophytes at San Francisco, and sixteen of
whom they had killed. Moraga had a hard fight against
a hundred and twenty of them, and captured eighteen,
whom he soon released, " as they were all sure to die of
their wounds." The survivors retreated to their huts and
made a desperate resistance, and were so determined not
to be captured that, when one hut was set on fire, its in-
mates preferred to perish in the flames rather than to
surrender. A full report of this affair was sent to the
King of Spain, and as a result he promoted Moraga and
other officers, and increased the pay of some of the soldiers.
He also tendered the thanks of the nation to all the
participants.

Runaway neophytes gave considerable trouble for sev-
eral years, and in 1819 a force was sent from San Fran-
cisco to punish these recalcitrants and their allies. A sharp
fight took place near the site of the present Stockton, in
which 27 Indians were killed, 20 wounded, and 16 captured,
with 49 horses.

162 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

The Mission report for 1821—30 shows a decrease in
neophyte population from 1252 to 219, though this was
largely caused by the sending of neophytes to the newly
founded Missions of San Rafael and San Francisco Solano.

San Francisco was secularized in 1834—35, with Joaquin
Estudillo as comisionado. The valuation in 1835 was real
estate and fixtures, $25,800 ; church property, $17,800 ;
available assets in excess of debts (chiefly live-stock),
$16,400, or a total of $60,000. If any property was ever
divided among the Indians there is no record to show it.

On June 5, 1845, Pio Pico's proclamation was made,
requiring the Indians of Dolores Mission to reunite and
occupy it or it would be declared abandoned and disposed
of for the general good of the department. A fraudulent
title to the Mission was given, and antedated February 10,
1845 ; but it was afterwards declared void, and the build-
ing was duly returned to the custody of the archbishop,
under whose direction it still remains.

After Commodore Sloat had taken possession of Mon-
terey for the United States, in 1846, it was merely the
work of a day or so to get despatches to Captain Mont-
gomery, of the ship " Portsmouth," who immediately raised
the stars and stripes, and thus the city of the Golden Gate
entered into American possession. While the city was
materially concerned in the events immediately following
the occupation, the Mission was already too nearly dead to
participate. In 1846 the bishop succeeded in finding a
curate for a short period, but nothing in the records can
be found as to the final disposition of the property belong-
ing to the ex-Mission. In the political caldron it had
totally disappeared.

The graveyard of Dolores is an interesting old place,
and it is a great pity that it and the old Mission church
are not made more accessible to visitors. Saturdays and
Sundays only are they admitted. It is scarcely in keeping
with the progressive spirit of the leaders of the great

SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS 163

church that controls these sacred memorials of the past that
such slight facilities are offered to the people who arc the
heirs of their history. At the least, certain hours — ex-
tended enough not to be prohibitive — should be set aside
in each day of the week, when all who come in the proper
spirit may have full — if not free — entrance to them.

In the early days the Mission Indians were buried in the
graveyard, then the soldiers and settlers, Spanish and
Mexican, and the priests, and, later, the Americanos. But
all is neglected and uncared for, except by Nature, and,
after all, perhaps it is better so. The kindly spirited
Earth Mother has given forth vines and myrtle and ivy
and other plants in profusion, that have hidden the old
gravelled walks and the broken flags. Rose-bushes grow
untrimmed, untrained, and frankly beautiful ; while pep-
per and cypress wave gracefully and poetically sugges-
tive over graves of high and low, historic and unknown.
For here are names carved on stone denoting that beneath
lie buried those who helped make California history. Just
at the side entrance of the church is a stone with this in-
scription to the first governor of California : " Aqui
yacen los restos del Capitan Don Luis Antonio Argiiello,
Primer Gobernador del Alta California, Bajo el Gobierno
Mejicano. Nacioen San Francisco el 21 de Junio, 1774,
y murioen el mismo lugar el 27 de Marzo, 1830."

Farther along is a brown stone monument, erected bv the
members of the famous fire company, to Casey, who was
hung by the Vigilantes — Casey, who shot James King of
William. The monument, adorned with firemen's helmets
and bugles in stone, stands under the shadow of drooping
pepper sprays, and is inscribed : " Sacred to the memory
of James P. Casey, who Departed this life May 23-1856
Aged 27 years. May God forgive my Persecutors. Requi-
escat en pace."

Poor, sad Dolores ! How utterly lost it now looks, sur-
rounded by parvenu buildings of pretentious greatness,

164 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

and led up to by asphalt pavements and cement sidewalks.
It is forlorn and neglected. The tiles on its roof and ridge
are irregular and uneven. The wooden cross on the front
is old and staggering. Even the fachada has been de-
graded with a new coat of whitewash, so that all its time-
honored wrinkles are gone.

SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO 165

CHAPTER XII

SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO

ON the tragic events at San Diego that led to the
delay in the founding of San Juan Capistrano
I have already fully dwelt. The Mission was
founded by Serra, November 1, 1776, and the adobe church
recently restored by the Landmarks Club is said to be the
original church built at that time.

Troubles began here early, as at San Gabriel, owing to
the immorality of the guards with the Indian women, and
in one disturbance three Indians were killed and several
wounded. In 1781 the padre feared another uprising,
owing to incitements of the Colorado River Indians, who
came here across the desert and sought to arouse the local
Indians to revolt.

In 1787 Governor Fages reported that San Juan was in
a thoroughly prosperous condition ; lands were fertile,
ministers faithful and zealous, and natives well disposed.
In 1800 the number of neophytes was 1046, horses and
cattle 8500, while it had the vast number of 17000 sheep.
Crops were 6300 bushels, and in 1797 the presidios of
Santa Barbara and San Diego owed San Juan Mission over
$6000 for supplies furnished. In 1794 two large adobe
granaries with tile roofs, and forty houses for neophytes
were built. In February, 1797, work was begun on the
church, the remains of which are now to be seen. It is in
the form of a Roman cross, ninety feet wide and a hundred
and eighty feet long, and was planned by Fray Gorgonio.
It was probably the finest of all the California Mission
structures. Built of quarried stone, with arched roof of

166 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

the same material and a lofty tower adorning its fachada,
it justifies the remark that " it could not be duplicated
to-day under $100,000."

The stone-work facings at San Juan Capistrano are
more elaborate than at any other Mission. The few speci-
mens illustrated show that the mason was a master crafts-
man, and he was given every opportunity to display his.
skill. In the ruins of the altar are many pieces of exquisite
work, especially in the two arched doorways leading into
the sacristy. The stone-work is well carved. Both door-
ways are now walled up. The window-frames are of stone,
resting upon a three-membered sill. Above the frame is a
similar three-membered detached cornice of stone. The
master mason who did all this work was brought specially
for the purpose from Culiacan, and under his direction
the work slowly but steadily progressed for nine years.

The baptismal font and holy water receptacle were
doubtless made here, and by the same artist that cut the
stone for the building. It is scarcely to be assumed that
such heavy objects as these stone baptismal fonts would be
imported, when they could be manufactured on the ground
much more easily.

A weaver, Mariano Mendoza, was sent down from Mon-
terey to teach the Indians liis art. This was in 1796. He
Was under contract to the government at thirty dollars a
month, and the San Juan padre was instructed that if he
neglected his work he was to be chained up at night. Soon
the rattle and clatter of his rude loom was heard, and it was
not long before many of the natives* were making rude but
serviceable cloth and blankets. In 1797, as a call was made
for pay for his services, Mendoza was dismissed. The fact
was his pupils had learned all he could teach.

The country was much agitated by fear of an English
invasion in 1797, and, remembering that Vancouver had
been there four years previously and had made careful
observations, a sentinel was placed on the lookout at the

Plate XXV

|!ll|

"**•'

<*»»

a. ARCHED CLOISTERS AT SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO

b. PRESIDIO CHURCH. MONTEREY

SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO 167

beach to watch for suspicious vessels. Nothing alarming,
however, appears to have been reported.

It must be remembered that little or no communication
was permitted between the Californians and any foreign
vessel which might appear on the coast. Spain was very
jealous of her Pacific possessions. Trade was either
forbidden or very much restricted. Yet, being between the
sea-coast presidios of San Diego and Santa Barbara, it
seemed impossible to prevent vessels from stopping at San
Juan Capistrano. And if a padre needed something that
the captain had, and the captain needed something that
the padre had, what more natural than that the exchange
should take place? — purely as a friendly act, not as a
matter of trade between people of different nationalities.

The carelessness of servants had an illustration here in
March, 1801, when the storeroom was set on fire, and
2400 bushels of grain and six tons of tallow were lost, as
well as considerable damage suffered by the other buildings.

The consecration of the beautiful new church took place,
September 7, 1806. President Tapis was aided by padres
from many Missions, and the scene was made gorgeous and
brilliant by the presence of Governor Arrillaga and his
staff, with many soldiers from San Diego and Santa Bar-
bara. Large numbers of neophytes from other Missions
were also permitted to be present at the rites, and it was
one of the most elaborate and pretentious events in early
Californian history. What congratulations and feastings
indoors and out there must have been ; the visiting padres
and the Governor and other officials being regaled with
the best the Mission afforded, and the hordes of Indians
crowding the rancherias outside, and, likewise, feasting
on the abundance provided for them on so auspicious an
occasion.

The following day another mass was said and sermon
preached, and on the 9th the bones of Padre Vicente Fuster
were transferred to their final resting-place within the

168 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

altar of the new church. A solemn requiem mass was
chanted, thus adding to the solemnity of the occasion.

This altar had nine niches for statuary, all well executed.
The ceiling was groined, and the apse being six-sided, it
allowed the erection of five beautiful connecting arches
above. Three steps led up from the church to the altar.

The church itself originally had seven domes. Only two
now remain. In the earthquake of 1812, when the tower
fell, one of the domes was crushed, but the others remained
fairly solid and intact until the sixties of the last century,
when, with a zeal that outran all discretion, and that the
fool-killer should have been permitted to restrain, they were
blown up with gunpowder by mistaken friends who ex-
pected to rebuild the church with the same material, but
never did so.

This earthquake of 1812 was felt almost the whole
length of the Mission chain, and it did much damage. It
was on Sunday morning, December 8. At San Juan a
number of neophytes were at morning mass ; the day had
opened with intense sultriness and heaviness ; the air was
hot and seemed charged with electricity. Suddenly a shock
was felt. All were alarmed, but, devoted to his high office,
the padre began again the solemn words, when, suddenly,
the second shock came and sent the great tower crashing
down upon one of the domes or vaults, and in a moment
the whole mass of masonry came down upon the congrega-
tion. Thirty-nine were buried in the next two days, and
four were taken out of the ruins later. The officiating
priest escaped, as by a miracle, through the sacristy.

After he had made his pledges to leave California, Bou-
chard, the South American revolutionist, stopped two days
at San Juan, but as all the valuables and the families had
been removed to Trabuco rancho he found little. Nor could
he have taken it without a fight, as Ensign Argiiello, with
thirty soldiers from San Diego, was there for the purpose
of preventing any such effort.

SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO 169

It was in 1814 that Padre Boscana, who had been serv-
ing at San Luis Rey, came to reside at San Juan Capis-
trano, where he wrote the interesting account of the Indians
that is so often quoted. In 1812 its population gained its
greatest figure, 1361.

In November, 1833, Figueroa secularized the Mission
by organizing a " provisional pueblo " of the Indians, and
claiming that the padres voluntarily gave up the tempo-
ralities. There is no record of any inventory, and what
became of the church property is not known. Lands were
apportioned to the Indians by Captain Portilla. The fol-
lowing year, most probably, all this provisional work of
Figueroa's was undone, and the Mission was secularized in
the ordinary way, but in 1838 the Indians begged for the
pueblo organization again, and freedom from overseers,
whether lay or clerical. In 1840 Padre Zalvidea was in-
structed to emancipate them from Mission rule as speedily
as possible. Janssens was appointed majordomo, and he
reported that he zealously worked for the benefit of the
Mission, repairing broken fences and ditches, bringing
back runaway neophytes, clothing them and caring for the
stock. But orders soon began to come in for the delivery
of cattle and horses, applications rapidly came in for
grants of the Mission ranches, and about the middle of
June, 1841, the lands were divided among the ex-neophytes,
about 100 in number, and some forty whites. At the end
of July regulations were published for the foundation of
the pueblo, and Don Juan Bandini soon thereafter went to
supervise the work. He remained until March, 1842, in
charge of the community property, and then left about
half a dozen white families and twenty or more ex-neo-
phytes duly organized as a pueblo.

In 1843 San Juan was one of the Missions the tempo-
ralities of which were to be restored to the padres, provided
they paid one-eighth of all produce into the public treas-
ury. In 1844 it was reported that San Juan had no minis-

170 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

ter, and all its neophytes were scattered. In 1845 Pico's
decree was published, stating that it was to be considered
a pueblo; the church, curate's house, and courthouse
should be reserved, and the rest of the property sold at
auction for the payment of debts and the support of public
worship. In December of that year the ex-Mission build-
ings and gardens were sold to Forster and McKinley for
$710, the former of whom retained possession for many
years. In 1816 the pueblo was reported as possessing a
population of 113 souls.

Of the present appearance of San Juan I have written
in the chapter on architecture, and especially of its preser-
vation in the chapter on the work of the Landmarks Club.

Twenty years ago there used to be one of the best of the
Mission libraries at San Juan. The books were all in old-
style leather, sheepskin and parchment bindings, some of
them tied with leathern thongs, and a few having heavy
home-made metal clasps. They were all in Latin or Span-
ish, and were well known books of divinity. The first page
of the record of marriages was written and signed by
Junipero Serra.

There are still several interesting relics ; among others,
two instruments, doubtless Indian-made, used during the
Easter services. One is a board studded with handle-like
irons, which, when moved rapidly from side to side, makes
a hideous noise. Another is a three-cornered box, on which
are similar irons, and in this a loose stone is rattled. In the
service called " las tinieblas," — the utter darkness, — ex-
pressive of the darkness after the crucifixion, when the
church is absolutely without light, the appalling effect of
these noises, heightened by the clanking of chains, is
indescribable.

In proof of the tireless industry of the priests and In-
dians of their charge, there are to be found at San Juan
many ruins of the aqueducts, or flumes, some of brick,
others of wood, supported across ravines, which conveyed

SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO 171

the water needed to irrigate the eighty acres of orchard,
vineyard, and garden that used to be surrounded by an
adobe wall. Reservoirs, cisterns, and zanjas of brick,
stone, and cement are seen here and there, and several rem-
nants of the masonry aqueducts are still found in the
village.

172 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER XIII

SANTA CLARA DE ASIS

RIVERA delayed the founding of San Francisco
and Santa Clara for reasons of his own ; and
.. when, in September, 1776, he received a letter
from Viceroy Bucareli, in which were references clearly
showing that it was supposed by the writer that they were
already established, he set to work without further delay,
and went with Padre Pena, as already related. The Mis-
sion was duly founded January 12, 1777. A square of
seventy yards was set off and buildings at once begun.
Cattle and other Mission property were sent down from
San Francisco and San Carlos, and the guard returned.
But it was not long before the Indians developed an unholy
love for contraband beef, and Moraga and his soldiers
were sent for to capture and punish the thieves. Three of
them were killed, but even then depredations occasionally
continued. At the end of the year there had been sixty-
seven baptisms, including eight adults, and twenty-five
deaths.

The present is the third site occupied by Santa Clara.
The Mission was originally established some three miles
away, near Alviso, at the headwaters of the San Francisco
Bay, near the river Guadalupe, on a site called by the In-
dians So-co-is-u-ka (laurel wood). It was probably located
there on account of its being the chief rendezvous of the
Indians, fishing being good, the river having an abundance
of salmon trout. The Mission remained there only a short
time, as the waters rose twice in 1779, and washed it out.
Then the padres removed, in 1780—82, and built about 150

Plate XXVI

a. ENTRANCE TO SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO CHAPEL

'. ELLIPTICAL ARCHES OF DIFFERING AXES, SAN JUAB CAPISTRANO

THE

Tildeny

''IS.

1905

SANTA CLARA DE ASIS 173

yards southwest of the present broad-gauge (Southern
Pacific) depot, where quite recently traces were found of
the old adobe, walls. They remained at this spot, deeming
the location good, until an earthquake in 1812 gave them
considerable trouble. A second earthquake in 1818 so
injured their buildings that they felt compelled to move to
the present site, which has been occupied ever since. The
Mission church and other buildings were begun in 1818,
and finally dedicated in 1822. The site was called by the
Indians Gerguensun — the Valley of the Oaks.

The corner-stone of the second church was laid Novem-
ber 19, 1781, and the building was completed in 1784. It
was dedicated May 15, by Serra, Palou, and Pefia, in the
presence of Fages and Moraga. The occasion was a sad
one for Serra, as only four days previously Palou had
buried Murguia, its architect, within its walls. It was the
most beautiful and elaborate church, up to that time,
erected in California.

In agricultural advantages Santa Clara was deemed
second only to San Gabriel, and crops of grain and fruit
were both good, thus early foreshadowing the heavy har-
vests, especially of the latter, for which the whole valley is
now noted throughout the world. In 1790 Santa Clara
stood third in the number of its converts.

On the 29th of November, 1777, the pueblo of San Jose
was founded. The padres protested at the time that it was
too near the Mission of Santa Clara, and for the next
decade there was constant irritation, owing to the encroach-
ments of the white settlers upon the lands of the Indians.
Complaints were made and formally acted upon, and in
July, 1801, the boundaries were surveyed, as asked for by
the padres, and landmarks clearly marked and agreed upon
so as to prevent future disputes.

In 1793 Vancouver visited Santa Clara from San Fran-
cisco, and describes the Mission buildings as forming an
incomplete square of about 100 by 170 feet. Even though

174 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

this was the second site chosen, they were in a low, marshy
spot, and quite recently the padres had been confined to
their house with a flood. A roof of tiles was put on the
church in 1795, and it was also lengthened twenty-four
feet. The natives were busily engaged in weaving, tan-
ning, and shoemaking.

In 1794 the eastern shore of the Bay of San Francisco
was almost unknown, and in November the padres of Santa
Clara petitioned to be allowed to go on a gentile hunting
expedition, alleging that it would be an easy task, as the
drought had made the supply of food very short ; but the
commandante at San Francisco refused, because the coun-
try was " almost unknown," the natives perverse, and the
adventure too hazardous.

In 1800 Santa Clara was the banner Mission for popu-
lation, having 1247. Live-stock had increased to about
5000 head of each (cattle and horses), and crops were
good.

For several years after 1800 there was considerable
trouble with the Indians, — hunting for a chief, sending
after runaways, fights, and killings. In May, 1805, quite
an alarm was caused by the discovery on the roof of the
missionaries' house of a neophyte and a. gentile who, it was
alleged, were reconnoitring for a projected attack in
which the whole Mission was to be burned and the padres
killed. Troops were sent from San Francisco and Mon-
terey, arrests made ; but careful investigation showed the
whole thing to be a canard, spread abroad by some lazy
neophytes to frighten the padres so that they would escape
certain promised floggings.

In 1802, August 12, a grand high altar, which had
been obtained in Mexico, was consecrated with elaborate
ceremonies.

Padre Viader was a very muscular and athletic man ;
and one night, in 1814, a young gentile giant, named Mar-
celo, and two companions attacked him. In the rough and

SANTA CLARA DE ASIS 175

tumble fight which ensued the padre came out ahead; and
after giving the culprits a severe homily on the sin of at-
tacking a priest, they were pardoned, Marcelo becoming
one of his best and most faithful friends thereafter. Rob-
inson says Viader was " a good old man, whose heart and
soul were in proportion to his immense figure."

In 1820 the neophyte population was 1357, stock 5024,
horses 722, sheep 12,060. The maximum of population
Avas reached in 1827, of 1464 souls. After that it began
rapidly to decline. The crops, too, we,re smaller after 1820,
without any apparent reason.

In 1837 secularization was effected by Ramon Estrada.
In 1839-40 reports show that two-thirds of the cattle and
sheep had disappeared. The downfall of the Mission was
very rapid. The neophyte population in 1832 was 1125,
in 1834 about 800, and at the end of the decade about 290,
with 150 more scattered in the district.

The totals of baptisms from 1777 to 1834 is 8640, of
deaths 6950.

The old register of marriages records 3222 weddings
from January 12, 1778, to August 15, 1863.

In 1833 Padre Viader closed his missionary service of
nearly forty years in California by leaving the country,
and Padre Francisco Garcia Diego, the prefect of the
Zacatecan friars, became his successor. Diego afterwards
became the first bishop of California.

In July, 1839, a party called Yozcolos, doubtless after
their leader, attacked the neophytes guarding the Santa
Clara wheat-fields, killing one of them. The attackers
were pursued, and their leader slain, and the placing of his
head on a pole seemed to act as a deterrent of further acts
for awhile.

In December of the same year Prado Mesa made an
expedition against gentile thieves in the region of the Stan-
islaus River. He was surprised by the foe, three of his men
killed, and he and six others wounded, besides losing a num-

176 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

ber of his weapons. This Indian success caused great
alarm, and a regular patrol was organized to operate be-
tween San Jose and San Juan Missions for the protection
of the ranchos. This uprising of the Indians was almost
inevitable. Deprived of their maintenance at the Missions,
they were practically thrown on their own resources, and
in many cases this left them a prey to the evil leadership
of desperate men of their own class.

Santa Clara was one of the Missions immediately af-
fected by the decree of Micheltorena, of March 29, 1843,
requiring that the padres reassume the management of the
temporalities. They set to work to gather up what frag-
ments they could find, but the flocks and herds were " lent "
where they could not be recovered, and one flock of 4000
sheep — the padre says 6000 — were taken by M. J. Val-
lejo, " legally, in aid of the government."

Pio Pico's decree of June 5, 1845, affected Santa Clara.
Andres Pico made a valuation of the property at $16,173.
There were then 130 ex-neophytes, the live-stock had
dwindled down to 430 cattle, 215 horses, and 809 sheep.
The padre found it necessary to write a sharp letter to the
alcalde of San Jose on the grog-shops of that pueblo,
which encouraged drinking among his Indians to such
extent that they were completely demoralized.

Santa Clara saw exciting times both at the revolution
against Micheltorena and against the Americans after
Fremont had gone South. In the latter there were about
200 native Calif ornians to 100 of the Americans from San
Francisco ; but the " fight " amounted to nothing, and
when the forces from San Francisco entered Santa Clara
Mission, a truce was arranged, the complaints of the Cal-
ifornians only listened to, recorded on paper, promised re-
dress, and the conflict was over.

Santa Clara Mission was now a regular parish church,
Padre Real becoming the parish priest. In 1846 he was
authorized to sell the Mission lands to pay debts and sup-

SANTA CLARA DE ASIS

( (

port himself and the church ; and certain men afterwards
claimed they bought the orchard and buildings belonging to
it for $1200. But the courts afterwards decided that their
pretended deed was fraudulent. Immigrants gave the
padre considerable trouble by taking possession of the
Mission buildings, but the Governor threatened to evict
them by force, so they came to the padre's terms.

March 19, 1851, the parish priest, who was a cultivated
and learned Jesuit, and who had prepared the way, suc-
ceeded in having the Santa Clara College established in the
old Mission buildings. On the 28th of April, 1855, it was
chartered with all the rights and privileges of a university.
In due time the college grew to large proportions, and it
was found imperative either to remove the old Mission
structure completely, or renovate it out of all recognition.
This latter was done, so that but little of the old church
remains.

In restoring it in 1861-62 the nave was allowed to re-
main, but in 1885 it was found necessary to remove it. Its
walls were five feet thick. The adobe bricks were thrown
out upon the plaza behind the cross.

The present occupation of Santa Clara as a college as
well as a church necessitated the adaptation of the old
cloisters to meet the modern conditions. Therefore the
casual visitor would scarcely notice that the reception-room
into which he is ushered is a part of the old cloisters. The
walls are about three feet thick, and are of adobe. In the
garden the beams of the cloister roofs are to be seen.

The old Mission vineyard, where the grapes used to
thrive, is now converted into a garden. A number of the
old olive trees still remain. Two of the three original bells
of the Mission still remain. One was broken and had to
be recast in San Francisco.

On the altar, there are angels with flambeaux in their

hands, of wooden carving. These are deemed the work of

the Indians. There are also several old statues of the

178 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

saints, including San Joaquin, Santa Ana, San Juan Capis-
trano, and Santa Colette. In the sodality chapel, also,
there are statues of San Francisco and San Antonio. The
altar rail of the restored Santa Clara church was made
from the beams of the old Mission. These were of redwood,
secured from the Santa Cruz mountains, and, I believe,
are the earliest specimens of redwood used for lumber in
California. The rich natural coloring and the beauty
of the grain and texture have improved with the years. The
old octagonal pulpit, though not now used, is restored and
honored, standing upon a modern pedestal.

Santa Clara was noted for the longevity of some of its
Indians. One of them, Gabriel, who died in 1891 or 1892
at the hospital in Salinas, claimed he was a grandfather
when Serra came in 1767. He must have been over 150
years old when he died. Another, Inigo, was known to be
101 years of age at his death.

In a room in the college building is gathered together
an interesting collection of articles belonging to the old
Mission. Here are the chairs of the sanctuary, proces-
sional candlesticks, pictures, and the best bound book in the
State — an old choral. It rests on a stand at the end of
the room. The lids are of wood, covered with thick leather
and bound in very heavy bronze, with bosses half an inch
high. Each corner also has bronze protuberances, half an
inch long, that stand out on the bottom, or edge of the
cover, so that they raise the whole book. The volume is
of heaviest vellum and is entirely hand-written in red and
black ; and though a century or more has passed since it
was written it is clear and perfect. It has 189 pages. The
brothers of the college have placed this inscription over it :
" Ancient choral, whose wooden cover, leather bound and
covered in bronze, came, probably, originally from Spain,
and has age of some 500 years."

In a case which extends across the room are ancient
vestments, the key of the old Mission, statuary brackets

Plate XXVI I

PAINTING OF THE MIRACLE OF THE LOAVES AND FISHES, SANTA < LARA

SANTA CLARA DE ASIS 179

from the ancient altar, the altar bell, crown of thorns from
the Mission crucifix, altar card-frames, and the rosary and
crucifix that once belonged to Padre Magin Catala.

On the walls are some of the ancient paintings, one es-
pecially noteworthy. It is of Christ multiplying the loaves
and fishes (John vi. II). While it is not a great work of
art, the benignity and sweetness of the Christ face redeems
it from crudeness. With upraised right hand he is blessing
the loaves which rest in his left hand, while the boy with the
fishes kneels reverently at his feet.

180 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER XIV

SAN BUENAVENTURA

FOR thirteen years the heart of the venerable Serra
was made sick by the postponements in the found-
ing of this Mission. The Viceroy de Croix had
ordered Governor Rivera " to recruit seventy-five soldiers
for the establishment of a presidio and three Missions in
the channel of Santa Barbara : one towards the north of
the channel, which was to be dedicated to the Immaculate
Conception ; one towards the south, dedicated to San Buena-
ventura, and a third in the centre, dedicated to Santa
Barbara."

It was Serra's intense desire that the whole of the In-
dians along the two hundred leagues of Pacific Coast should
be converted, and he argued that if Missions were estab-
lished at convenient intervals of distance, they would be
caught in one or another of them. Portola, after he
made his trip from San Diego to Monterey in 1769, re-
ported fully to Serra the condition of the Indians he found
on the shore of the Channel Coast, — how that they, by
means of pictures made in the sand, showed that vessels
had been there, and white men, with beards, also visited
them ; thus, undoubtedly, recalling the traditions of the
Vizcaino visit made nearly two hundred years before.
Portola described their huts and the arrangement of their
villages. The one he named " Assumpta " was the site of
the future San Buenaventura. There he found the In-
dians more industrious and athletic, and the women better
clad, than elsewhere. They were builders of well-shaped
pine canoes, and were expert fishermen. They were also

SAN BUENAVENTURA 181

stone-masons, using only tools made of flint. Exchanges
were made by Portola with them of curious trinkets for
highly polished wooden plates, which showed that they
were accomplished wood-workers. Each family lived in its
own hut, which was conical in shape, made of willow poles
and covered with sage and other brush. A hole was left in
the top for the smoke to escape which rose from the fire,
always built in the centre of the hut.

Reports such as these had kept Serra in a constant fer-
ment to establish the long-promised Mission there, so we
can imagine it was with intense delight that he received a
call from Governor Neve, who, in February, 1782, informed
him that he was prepared to proceed at once to the found-
ing of the Missions of San Buenaventura and Santa
Barbara. Although busy training his neophytes, he de-
termined to go in person and perform the necessary cere-
monies. Looking about for a padre to accompany him, and
all his own coadjutors being engaged, he bethought him
of Father Pedro Benito Cambon, a returned invalid mis-
sionary from the Philippine Islands, who was recuperating
at San Diego. He accordingly wrote Padre Cambon, re-
questing him, if possible, to meet him at San Gabriel. On
his way to San Gabriel, Serra passed through the Indian
villages of the Channel region, and could not refrain from
joyfully communicating the news to the Indians that, very
speedily, he would return to them, and establish Missions
in their midst. I have often wondered, and still wonder,
what the thoughts of the Indians were, as this man — be-
nignant, energetic, devout — talked with them and revealed
his purposes towards them. Who can tell?

In the evening of March 18 Serra reached Los Angeles,
and next evening, after walking to San Gabriel, weighed
down with his many cares, and weary with his long walk,
he still preached an excellent sermon, it being the feast of
the patriarch St. Joseph. Father Cambon had arrived,
and after due consultation with him and the Governor, the

182 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

date for the setting out of the expedition was fixed for
Tuesday, March 26. The week was spent in confirmation
services and other religious work, and, on the date named,
after solemn mass, the party set forth. It was the most
imposing procession ever witnessed in California up to that
time, and called forth many gratified remarks from Serra.
There were seventy soldiers, with their captain, commander
for the new presidio, ensign, sergeant, and corporals. In
full gubernatorial dignity followed Governor Neve, with
ten soldiers of the Monterey company, their wives and
families, servants and neophytes.

At midnight they halted, and a special messenger over-
took them with news which led the Governor to return at
once to San Gabriel with his ten soldiers. He ordered the
procession to proceed, however, found the San Buena-
ventura Mission, and there await his return. Serra ac-
cordingly went forward, and on the 29th inst. arrived at
" Assumpta." Here, the next day, on the feast of Easter,
they pitched their tents, " erected a large cross, and pre-
pared an altar under a shade of evergreens," where the
venerable Serra, now soon to close his life work, blessed the
Cross and the place, solemnized mass, preached a sermon to
the soldiers on the Resurrection of Christ, and formally
dedicated the Mission to God, and placed it under the
patronage of St. Joseph.

In the earlier part of this century the Mission began to
grow rapidly. Padres Francisco Dumetz and Vicente de
Santa Maria, who had been placed in charge of the Mission
from the first, were gladdened by many accessions, and the
Mission flocks and herds also increased rapidly. Indeed
we are told that " in 1802 San Buenaventura possessed
finer herds of cattle and richer fields of grain than any of
her contemporaries, and her gardens and orchards were
visions of wealth and beauty."

On his second visit to the California coast, Vancouver,
when anchored off Santa Barbara, traded with Padre

Plate XXVI [I

,:. INTERIOR OF SAN BUENAVENTURA MISSION

*. INTERIOR OF -\N WI'ONIO DE FATH'A MISSION

SAN BUENAVENTURA 183

Santa Maria of San Buenaventura for a flock of sheep
and as many vegetables as twenty mules could carry. The
padre returned to his Mission in Vancouver's vessel, and the
English captain visited with him for a day in his hospitable
quarters. Said he:

" I found the Mission to be in a very superior style to any of
the new establishments yet seen. The garden of Buenaventura
far exceeding anything I had before met with, in these regions,
both in respect of the quantity, quality, and variety of its excellent
productions, not only indigenous to the country, but appertaining
to the temperate as well as torrid zone ; not one species having
yet been sown or planted that had not nourished. These have
principally consisted of apples, pears, plums, figs, oranges, grapes,
peaches, and pomegranates, together with the plantain, banana,
cocoanut, sugar-cane, indigo, and a great variety of the neces-
sary and useful kitchen herbs, plants, and roots. All these were
flourishing in the greatest health and perfection, though sepa-
rated from the sea-side only by two or three fields of corn that
were cultivated within a few yards of the surf."

It is to Vancouver, on this voyage, that we owe the names
of a number of points on the California coast, as, for in-
stance, Points Sal, Argiiello, Felipe, Vicente, Dumetz, Fer-
min, and Lasuen.

Vancouver says that owing to a fire the buildings were
being re-erected. The new church was of stone. It was
about half finished in 1794, and three years later was re-
ported nearly completed. Yet the work dragged on until
September 9, 1809, when it was duly dedicated by Seiian,
assisted by five other friars and one priest. It was roofed
with tiles.

In 1795 there was a fight between the neophyte and
gentile Indians, the former killing two chiefs and taking
captive several of the latter. The leaders on both sides
were punished, the neophyte Domingo even being sentenced
to work in chains.

In 1806 the venerable Santa Maria, one of the Mission

184 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

founders, died. His remains were ultimately placed in the
new church.

In 1800 the largest population in its history was reached,
with 1297 souls. Cattle and horses prospered, and the
crops were reported as among the best in California.

The earthquake of 1812-13 did considerable damage at
San Buenaventura. Afraid lest the sea would swallow
them up, the people fled to San Joaquin y Santa Ana for
three months, where a temporary jacal church was erected.
The tower and a part of the fachada had to be torn down
and rebuilt, and this was done by 1818, with a new chapel
dedicated to San Miguel in addition.

Of course San Buenaventura felt all the alarm experi-
enced by the other coast settlements at the time of Bou-
chard's attacks, and Padre Sefian, with neophytes and
guards, fled from the Mission to the canyada of New Pu-
risima, where a temporary church was erected, and where
they remained twenty-four days.

May 29, 1819, twenty-two Mohave Indians came from
their home on the Colorado River to trade with the neo-
phytes. This practice the authorities had given strict
orders not to allow. Consequently the visitors were refused
permission either to see the padre or the neophytes, and
they were locked up in the guard-house until ready to
depart the following day. The next day, while all were at
mass in the church, one of the Indians insisted upon leaving
the guard-house. The guard struck him and called for the
corporal. The latter left the church with another soldier
to quell the disorder, and both were attacked and killed with
clubs. The padre then called upon the rest of the soldiers,
and gave arms to the neophytes, bidding them defend them-
selves ; and in the general melee that ensued ten Mohaves
were killed and one neophyte. The rest of the Indians es-
caped, but were afterwards captured by a force from Santa
Barbara. They were set to work at the presidio and again
escaped. For a long time thereafter this caused an uneasy

SAN BUENAVENTURA 185

feeling throughout the whole region, as it was feared the
Mohaves would come in force on a mission of vengeance.
This feeling in time died away.

That San Buenaventura was prosperous is shown by the
fact that in June, 1820, the government owed it $27,385
for supplies; $6200 in stipends, and $1585 for a cargo of
hemp, — a total of $35,170, which, says Bancroft, " there
was not the slightest chance of ever receiving."

In 1823 the president and vice-prefect Senan, who had
served as padre at this Mission for twenty-five years,
died August 24, and was buried by the side of Santa
Maria. After his death San Buenaventura began rapidly
to decline.

In 1822 a neophyte killed his wife for adultery. It is
interesting to note that in presenting his case the fiscal
said that as the culprit had been a Christian only seven
years, and was yet ignorant in matters of domestic dis-
cipline, he asked for the penalty of five years in the chain
gang and then banishment.

In the struggle between the rival claimants for guber-
natorial honors in 1838 San Buenaventura was the scene
of one of the " deadly conflicts." General Castro, who
supported Governor Alvarado, marched with a force of a
hundred men and a few cannon to meet the opposing forces
of Castaneda (the supporter of Carrillo), who were in-
trenched in the Mission. After three separate demands for
surrender and evacuation, all of which were refused, the
cannonading began, lasting two days, in which one man
was killed on the besieging side. At the close of the second
day the defenders fled under cover of night. Sending a
force in pursuit, seventy fugitives were caught, with fifty
muskets and other arms. It was afterwards learned that
so careless were the Carrillo forces that they had no sen-
tinels or pickets out ; they were completely surrounded be-
fore they were aware of it, their horses captured, and
water supply cut off. Their valor for the next two days

186 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

was kept up on Mission wine, and it is possible that they
fled only when the supply gave out. In the cannonading
two guns were placed on the shore-side, in the direction of
the chapel, and one perhaps on the elevation back of the
Mission. As late as 1874 the walls still bore the marks of
the cannon-balls.

At the time of this struggle Carrillo was the comisionado
to carry out the secularization decree at San Buenaven-
tura. In 1834 the neophyte population had decreased to
626, but the live-stock and agricultural operations showed
no decline. The decree was not made effective until the
spring of 1837.

The baptisms for the whole period of the Mission's his-
tory, viz., for 1782-1834, is 3876. There is still preserved
at the Mission the first register, which was closed in 1809.
At that time 2648 baptisms had been administered. The
padre presidente, Serra, wrote the heading for the Index,
and the contents themselves were written in a beautiful
hand by Padre Sefian. There are four signatures which
occur throughout in the following order: Pedro Benito
Cambon, Francisco Dumetz, Vicente de Sta Maria, and
Jose Senan.

The largest population was 1330 in 1816. The largest
number of cattle was 23,400 in the same year. In 1814,
4652 horses; in 1816, 13,144 sheep.

Micheltorena's decree in 1843 restored the temporalities
of the Mission to the padres. This was one of the two Mis-
sions, Santa Ines being the other, that was able to provide
a moderate subsistence out of the wreck left by seculariza-
tion. On the 5th of December, 1845, Pico rented San
Buenaventura to Jose Arnaz and Narcisco Botello for
$1630 a year. There are no statistics of the value of the
property after 1842, though in April of 1843 Padre
Jimeno reports 2382 cattle, 529 horses, 2299 sheep, 220
mules and 18 asses, 1032 fruit trees and 11,970 vines. In
November of that same year the bishop appointed Pres-

SAN BUENAVENTURA 187

byter Rosalcs, since which time the Mission has been the
regular parish church of the city.

In 1893 the Mission church was renovated out of all its
historic association and value by Father Rubio, who had a
good-natured but fearfully destructive zeal for the " resto-
ration " of the old Missions. Almost everything has been
modernized. The fine old pulpit, one of the richest treas-
ures of the Mission, was there several years ago ; but when,
in 1904, I inquired of the then pastor where it was, I was
curtly informed that he neither knew nor cared. All the
outbuildings have been demolished and removed in order to
make way for the modern spirit of commercialism which
in the last decade has struck the town. It is now an ordi-
nary church, with little but its history to redeem it from the
look of smug modernity which is the curse of the present
age.

Before leaving San Buenaventura it may be interesting
to note that a few years ago I was asked about two
" wooden bells " which were said to have been hung in the
tower at this Mission. I deemed the question absurd ; but
on one of my visits found one of these bells in a storeroom
under the altar, and another still hanging in the belfry.
By whom, or why, these dummy bells were made, I have not
been able to discover.

188 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER XV

SANTA BARBARA

AFTER the founding of San Buenaventura Governor
Neve arrived from San Gabriel, inspected the new
L site, and expressed himself as pleased with all that
had been done. A few days later he, with Padre Serra, and
a number of soldiers and officers started up the coast, and,
selecting a site known to the Indians, after the name of
their chief, Yanonalit, established the presidio of Santa
Barbara. Yanonalit was very friendly, and as he had
authority over thirteen rancherias he was able to help
matters along easily. This was April 21, 1782.

Neve, in his report to the Viceroy, had long expressed
himself in favor of Missions all along the channel. Here
is part of his official declaration in regard to the determina-
tion to occupy the pass of Santa Barbara.

" This pass is 74 leagues (308 miles) from the Post of San
Diego, and 70 from that of Monterey. It stretches between the
coast and the Cieneguilla [meadow] Range about 26 leagues, its
greatest width being half to three-fourths of a league. It is full
of high hills, bluffs, and profound clefts. In this indispensable
pass are 8000 to 10,000 Gentiles (Indians) who inhabit 21
Rancherias, situated at short distances on the heights and points
contiguous to the Beach. Near the beach, some times on it and
some times on the high ground, runs the Camino Real [King's
Highway]. This evidences the risk to which small Parties are
exposed on it ; and that if some incident makes those Gentiles
treacherous or hostile, communication with the old and new
settlements would be cut off. These urgent reasons have caused
the determination to occupy this pass in the following form.

SANTA BARBARA 189

" The Post which shall be established midway the Pass shall
be manned by Lieutenant, Ensign, and 29 Recruits, including a
Sergeant and two Corporals. It shall establish in its shelter a
Reduction (Mission) which afterwards shall be removed to the
neighboring spot which offers more land and sufficient water to
irrigate the fields; — and then it shall be given from the Garri-
son an Escort of a Corporal and five soldiers. At the ends of
said Pass, for its complete occupation, two other ' Reductions '
shall be placed, each garrisoned with a Sergeant and 14
Soldiers. Said Recruits will be considered supernumeraries
to the Company at the Post, while they secure these settle-
ments peace and good admission among the Gentiles.

" Attaining this with rapid progress that should be expected
in the spiritual conquest, they shall be reduced proportionately
to the regular Escort of a Corporal and five Soldiers each ; the
Sergeants shall be incorporated with the Companies of San
Diego and Monterey, and the 16 remaining Recruits shall be
destined to garrison other ' Reductions ' which it may be de-
cided to found, in which case they shall be added to the com-
panies nearest the spot."

With a fatuity as singular as it was determined, Neve
advised and insisted that the new Missions be founded on
the plan followed so disastrously on the Colorado River,
which removed from the padres all control of the temporal
affairs. The superiors of the Franciscan college in Mexico
refused to send their missionaries under any such plan ;
the result was the long delay in the founding of Santa
Barbara. When Serra came to the establishment of the
presidio he expected also to found the Mission, and great
was his disappointment. This undoubtedly hastened his
death, which occurred August 28, 1784.

It was not until two years later that Neve's successor,
Fages, authorized Serra's successor, Lasuen, to proceed.
Even then it was feared that he would demand adherence
to the new conditions ; but, as the guardian of the col-
lege had positively refused to send missionaries for the
new establishments, unless they were founded on the old
lines, Fages tacitly agreed. On December 4, therefore, the

190 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

Cross was raised on the site called Taynayan by the In-
dians and Pedragoso by the Spaniards, and formal posses-
sion taken, though the first mass was not said until Fages's
arrival on the 16th. Lasuen was assisted by Padres An-
tonio Paterna and Cristobal Oramas. Father Zephyrin
has written a very interesting history of the Mission, some
of which is as follows:

" The work of erecting the necessary buildings began early in
1787. With a number of Indians, who had first to be initiated
into the mysteries of house construction, Fathers Paterna and
Oramas built a dwelling for themselves together with a chapel.
These were followed by a house for the servants, who were male
Indians, a granary, carpenter shop, and quarters for girls and
unmarried young women. This class of Indians were separated
from their relatives and placed under the care of some elderly
Indian woman, in order to withdraw them from the immoral
influences of the camps. The carpenter shop was utilized by
boys and young men for the same reason, until suitable quarters
had been provided. All these structures were of adobe and the
walls about one yard thick. The roofing consisted of heavy
rafters across which long poles or canes were tied with rawhide
strips, over which a layer of soft clay or mud was spread, and
then thatched with straw. Tiles, however, were manufactured
in the following year, and thereafter all the buildings covered
with these.

" In succeeding years other structures arose on the rocky height
as the converts increased and industries were introduced. At
the end of 1807 the Indian village, which had sprung up just
southwest of the main building, consisted of 252 separate adobe
dwellings harboring as many Indian families. The present Mis-
sion building, with its fine corridor, was completed about the
close of the eighteenth century. The fountain in front arose in
1808. It furnished the water for the great basin just below,
which served for the general laundry purposes of the Indian
village. The water was led through earthen pipes from the
reservoir north of the church, which to this day furnishes Santa
Barbara with water. It was built in 1806. To obtain the
precious liquid from the mountains, a very strong dam was built
across ' Pedragoso ' creek about two miles back of the mission.

Plate \\l\

ItfiUCu

SANTA BARBARA 191

It is still in good condition. Then there were various structures
scattered far and near for the different trades, since everything
that was used in the way of clothing and food had to be raised
or manufactured at the Mission.

" The chapel grew too small within a year from the time it was
dedicated, Sunday, May 21, 1787. It was therefore enlarged
in 1788, but by the year 1792 this, also, proved too small.
Converts were coming in rapidly. The old structure was then
taken down, and a magnificent edifice took its place in 1793.
Its size was 25 by 125 feet. There were three small chapels
on each side, like the two that are attached to the present
church. An earthquake, which occurred on Monday, December
21, 1812, damaged this adobe building to such an extent that it
had to be taken down. On its site rose the splendid structure,
which is still the admiration of the traveller. Padre Antonio
Ripoll superintended the work, which continued through five
years, from 1815 to 1820. It was dedicated on the 10th of
September, 1820. The walls, which are six feet thick, consist
of irregular sandstone blocks, and are further strengthened by
solid stone buttresses measuring nine by nine feet. The towers
to a height of thirty feet are a solid mass of stone and cement
twenty feet square. A narrow passage leads through one of
these to the top, where the old bells still call the faithful to
service as of yore. Doubtless the Santa Barbara mission church
is the most solid structure of its kind in California. It is 165
feet long, forty feet wide and thirty feet high on the outside.
Like the monastery, the church is roofed with tiles which were
manufactured at the mission by the Indians.

" Besides the buildings in the immediate neighborhood of the
church, the missionaries had farm houses or cattle ranchos at
considerable distances for the convenience of the herders and
field hands. All the ranchos East of Santa Ines river, including
San Marcos, down to the ' Rincon ' near Carpenteria, belonged
to this mission. Thus we have the x*anches of Tecolote, San
Miguel, Canyada de las Armas and San Marcos, at which places
the stock was herded. The principal ranches for wheat, barley,
and corn were : Dos Pueblos, or San Pedro y San Pablo (' Meke-
guwe '), San Estevan ('Tokeene'), San Miguel (' Sagspileel '
or ' Mescaltitlan'), San Jose or Abajo, San Juan Bautista or
Sauzal. Sauzal is now part of the Hope Ranch. San Estevan

192 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

•was all that land north of the road beginning west of the arroyo
(f Pedragoso Creek ') at the new bridge and continuing to the
Arroyo del Burro. The foundation of a large stone wall may
yet be seen a little beyond the bridge west of ' Pedragoso
Creek.' This was a large corral especially for tame horses."

The report for 1800 is full of interest. It recounts the
activity in building, tells of the death of Padre Paterna,
who died in 1793, and was followed by Estevan Tapis
(afterwards padre presidente), and says that 1237 natives
have been baptized, and that the Mission now owns 2492
horses and cattle, and 5615 sheep. Sixty neophytes are
engaged in weaving and allied tasks ; the carpenter of the
presidio is engaged at a dollar a day to teach the neo-
phytes his trade ; and a corporal is teaching them tanning
at $150 a year.

In 1801 a large number of the Indians died of an epi-
demic pulmonary disease. When the matter became serious,
a neophyte reported to his fellows that he had had a dream
in which Chupu, the channel deity, had appeared to him
and warned him that all gentiles who were baptized would
die of the epidemic unless they renounced Christianity and
washed their faces in a certain water. The excitement was
intense. The scared beings went secretly, but as speedily
as possible, to the prophet's house with beads and grain to
renounce anything and everything necessary. The move-
ment reached to San Buenaventura and throughout the
rancherias of the length of the channel. Fortunately for
their peace of mind, the missionaries knew nothing of it
until it was all over. Then they realized their danger;
for had Chupu ordered their killing, there is no doubt but
that it would have been attempted.

In 1803 the population was the highest the Mission ever
reached, with 1792. In May, 1808, a determined effort of
nine days was made to rid the region of ground squirrels,
and about a thousand were killed.

The earthquakes of 1812 alarmed the people and dam-

SANTA BARBARA 193

aged the buildings at Santa Barbara as elsewhere. The
sea was much disturbed, and new springs of asphaltum
were formed, great cracks opened in the mountains, and the
population fled all buildings and lived in the open air.

On the 6th of December, in the same year, the arrival of
Bouchard " the pirate " gave them a new shock of terror.
The padres had already been warned to send all their val-
uables to Santa Ines, and the women and children were to
proceed thither on the first warning of an expected attack.
But Bouchard made no attack. He merely wanted to ex-
change " prisoners." He played a pretty trick on the
Santa Barbara commandante in negotiating for such ex-
change, and then, when the hour of delivery came, it was
found he had but one prisoner, — a poor drunken wretch
whom the authorities would have been glad to get rid of at
any price.

In 1824 the Indian revolt, which is fully treated in the
chapters on Santa Ines and Purisima, reached Santa Bar-
bara. While Padre Ripoll was absent at the presidio the
neophytes armed themselves and worked themselves into a
frenzy. They claimed that they were in danger from the
Santa Ines rebels unless they joined the revolt, though 'they
promised to do no harm if only the soldiers were sent and
kept away. Accordingly Ripoll gave an order for the
guard to withdraw, but the Indians insisted that the sol-
diers leave their weapons. Two refused, whereupon they
were savagely attacked and wounded. This so incensed
Guerra that he marched up from the presidio in full force,
and a fight of several hours ensued, the Indians shooting
with guns and arrows from behind the pillars of the cor-
ridors. Two Indians were killed and three wounded, and
four of the soldiers were wounded. When Guerra retired
to the presidio the Indians stole all the clothing and other
portable property (carefully respecting everything, how-
ever, belonging to the church) they would carry, and fled to
the hills. That same afternoon the troops returned and,

194 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

spite the padre's protest, sacked the Indians' houses and
killed all the stragglers they found, regardless of their
guilt or innocence. The Indians refused to return, and
retreated further over the mountains to the recesses of the
Tulares. Here they were joined by escaped neophytes from
San Fernando and other Missions. The alarm spread to
San Buenaventura and San Gabriel, but few, if any, In-
dians ran away. In the meantime the revolt was quelled at
Santa Ines and Purfsima, as elsewhere recorded.

On the strength of reports to this effect, and not realiz-
ing the fact that Santa Barbara was still in a state of
turmoil, Governor Argiiello recalled the Monterey troops
which had been aiding the padres at Santa Ines and Puri-
sima ; but this appeared to be a mistake, for, immediately,
Guerra of Santa Barbara sent eighty men over to San
Emigdio, where, on the 9th and 11th of April, severe con-
flicts took place, with four Indians killed, and wounded on
both sides. A wind and dust storm arising, the troops
returned to Santa Barbara.

In May the Governor again took action, sending Captain
Portilla with a force of 130 men. The prefect Sarria and
Padre Ripoll went along to make as peaceable terms as pos-
sible, and a message which Sarria sent on ahead doubtless
led the insurgents to sue for peace. They said they were
heartily sorry for their actions and were anxious to return
to Mission life, but hesitated about laying down their arms
in fear of summary punishment. The gentiles still fomented
trouble by working on the fears of the neophytes, but owing
to Argiiello's granting a general pardon, they were finally,
in June, induced to return, and the revolt was at an end.

After these troubles, however, the Mission declined rap-
idly in prosperity. Though the buildings under Padre
Ripoll were in excellent condition, and the manufacturing
industries were well kept up, everything else suffered.

In 1817 a girls' school for whites was started at the
presidio of Santa Barbara, but nothing further is known

SANTA BARBARA 195

of it. Several years later a school was opened, and Diego
Fernandez received $15 a month as its teacher. But Gov-
ernor Echeandia ordered that, as not a single scholar
attended, this expense be discontinued ; yet he required the
commandante to compel parents to send their children to
school.

The French voyager Duhaut-Cilly describes the Mission
as follows : " As we advanced, the buildings of the Mission
appeared under a finer aspect. From the roadstead we
could have taken it for a chateau of mediaeval times, with
its lofty apertures and belfry. Coming nearer, the build-
ing grows, and, without losing anything of its beauty,
takes on, little by little, a religious appearance ; the turret
becomes a spire ; the brass, instead of announcing a
knight's arrival, sounds the Office or the Angelus ; the first
illusion is destroyed, and the castle is a convent.

" In front of the building, in the middle of a huge
square, is a playing fountain, the workmanship of which,
imperfect as it was, surprised us more, since we had not
expected to find in this country, otherwise so far removed
from the fine things of Europe, this sort of luxury, re-
served among us for the dwellings of the most wealthy."

" H. H." thus describes the christening of one of the
towers of Santa Barbara at the wedding of the brother of
the superior, the bride having told her the story :

" On the day after her wedding came the christening or bless-
ing of the right tower of the church. She and her husband,
having been chosen godfather and godmother of the tower,
walked in solemn procession around it, carrying lighted candles
in their hands, preceded by the friar, who sprinkled it with holy
water and burned incense. In the four long streets of Indians'
houses, then running eastward from the mission, booths of green
boughs, decorated with flowers, were set up in front of all the
doors. Companies of Indians from other missions came as
guests, dancing and singing as they approached. Their Indian
hosts went out to meet them, also singing, and pouring out
seeds on the ground for them to walk on."

196 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

In 1835 all the Indians on San Nicholas Island were
removed to the mainland, except one woman who escaped,
and about whom many a page of wild fiction has since been
written.

In 1833 Presidente Duran, discussing with Governor
Figueroa the question of secularization, deprecated too
sudden action, and suggested a partial and experimental
change at some of the oldest Missions, Santa Barbara
among the number.

When the decree from Mexico, however, came, this was
one of the first ten Missions to be affected thereby. Anas-
tasio Carrillo was appointed comisionado, and acted from
September, 1833. His inventory in March, 1834, showed
credits, $14,953; buildings, $22,936; furniture, tools,
goods in storehouse, vineyards, orchards, corrals, and ani-
mals, $19,590 ; church, $16,000 ; sacristy, $1500; church
ornaments, etc., $4576 ; library, $152 ; ranchos, $30,961 ;
total, $113,960, with a debt to be deducted of $1000.

The statistics from 1786 to 1834, the whole period of
the Mission's history, show that there were 5679 baptisms,
1524 marriages, 4046 deaths. The largest population was
1792 in 1803. The largest number of cattle was 5200 in
1809, 11,066 sheep in 1804.

Here, as elsewhere, the comisionados found serious fault
with the pueblo grogshops. In 1837 Carrillo reports that he
has broken up a place where Manuel Gonzalez sold liquor
to the Indians, and he calls upon the commandante to sup-
press other places. In March, 1838, he complains that the
troops are killing the Mission cattle, but is told that General
Castro had authorized the officers to kill all the cattle needed
without asking permission. When the Visitador Hartwell
was here in 1839 he found Carrillo's successor Cota an unfit
man, and so reported him. He finally suspended him, and
the Indians became more contented and industrious under
Padre Duran's supervision, though the latter refused to
undertake the temporal management of affairs.

SANTA BARBARA 197

In 1841 Garcia Diego was appointed bishop. He ar-
rived in Santa Barbara from San Diego January 11, 1842,
with the intention of making it his episcopal residence.
Robinson, who witnessed his arrival, thus describes the
event :

" The vessel was in sight in the morning, but lay becalmed
and rolling to the ocean's swell. A boat put off from her side
and approached the landing place. One of the attendants of his
Excellency, who came in it, repaired to the Mission, to com-
municate with the Father President. All was bustle ; men,
women, and children hastening to the beach, banners flying,
drums beating, and soldiers marching. The whole population
of the place turned out to pay homage to this first Bishop of
California. At eleven o'clock the vessel anchored. He came
on shore, and was welcomed by the kneeling multitude. All
received his benediction — all kissed the pontifical ring. The
troops and civic authorities then escorted him to the house of
Don Jose Antonio, where he dined. A carriage had been pre-
pared for his Excellency, which was accompanied by several
others, occupied by the President and his friends. The females
had formed, with ornamental canes, beautiful arches, through
Avhich the procession passed ; and as it marched along the heavy
artillery of the ' Presidio ' continued to thunder forth its noisy
welcome. . . .

" At four o'clock the Bishop was escorted to the Mission, and
when a short distance from the town the enthusiastic inhabi-
tants took the horses from his carriage and dragged it them-
selves. Halting at a small bower on the road, he alighted,
went into it, and put on his pontifical robes ; then resuming his
place in the carriage he continued on amidst the sound of music
and the firing of guns till he arrived at the church, where he
addressed the multitude that followed him."

Mexico made many financial and other pledges to the
new bishop, including a salary of $6000 a year and the
management of the pious fund. But she was too much in
need of money herself to care for promises made to an
outsider, and, consequently, his hopes and ambitions were
speedily nipped in the bud. He found that tithe-gathering

198 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

was not easy ; and though he received the concession of the
Mission buildings for episcopal purposes, and a site for
a proposed cathedral, the latter never grew higher than a
few piles of stone.

Micheltorena's decree of 1843 affected Santa Barbara,
in that it was ordered returned to the control of the padres ;
but in the following year Padre Duran reported that it
had the greatest difficulty in supporting its 287 souls.
Pico's decree in 1845 retained the principal building for
the bishop and padres ; but all the rest and the orchards
and lands were to be rented, which was accordingly done,
the property being valued at $20,288, December 5, to Nich-
olas A. Den and Daniel Hill for $1200 per year. Padre
Duran was growing old, and the Indians were becoming
more careless and improvident ; so, when Pico wrote him
to give up the Mission lands and property to the renters
he did so willingly, though he stated that the estate owed
him $1000 for money he had advanced for the use of the
Indians. The Indians were to receive one third of the
rental, but there is no record of a cent of it ever getting
into their hands. June 10, 1846, Pico sold the Mission to
Richard S. Den for $7500, though the lessees seem to have
kept possession until about the end of 1848. The land
commission confirmed Den's title, though the evidences are
that it was annulled in later litigation. Padre Duran died
here early in 1846, a month after Bishop Diego. Padre
Gonzalez Rubio still remained for almost thirty years
longer to become the last of the old missionaries.

In 1853 a petition was presented to Rome, and Santa
Barbara was erected into a Hospice, as the beginning of an
Apostolic College for the education of Franciscan novi-
tiates who are to go forth, wherever sent, as missionaries.
St. Anthony's College, the modern building near by, was
founded by the energy of Father Peter Wallischeck. It is
for the education of aspirants to the Franciscan order.
There are now thirty-five students.

SANTA BARBARA 199

Five of the early missionaries and three of later date
are buried in the crypt, under the floor of the sanctuary,
in front of the high altar ; and Bishop Diego rests under
the floor at the right hand side of the altar.

The small cemetery, which is walled in and entered from
the church, is said to contain the bodies of 4000 Indians,
as well as a number of whites. In the northeast corner is
the vault in which are buried the members of the Franciscan
community.

In the bell tower are two old bells made in 1818, as is
evidenced by their inscriptions, which read alike, as fol-
lows: " Manvel Vargas me fecit ano d. 1818 Mision de
Santa Barbara De la nveba California " — " Manuel Var-
gas made me Anno Domini 1818. Mission of Santa Bar-
bara of New California." The first bell is fastened to its
beam with rawhide thongs ; the second, with a framework
of iron. Higher up is a modern bell which is rung, the
old ones being tolled only.

The Mission buildings surround the garden, into which
no woman, save a reigning queen or the wife of the presi-
dent of the United States, is allowed to enter. An excep-
tion was made in the case of the Princess Louise when her
husband was the Governor-general of Canada. The wife
of President Harrison also has entered. The garden, with
its fine Italian cypress, planted by Bishop Diego about
1842, and its hundred varieties of semi-tropical flowers, in
the centre of which is a fountain where goldfish play, af-
fords a delightful place of study, quiet, and meditation
for the Franciscans.

It is well that the visitor should know that this old Mis-
sion, never so abandoned and abused as the others, has
been kept up in late years entirely by the funds given to
the Franciscan missionaries, who are now its custodians.
With no other revenues to rely upon, they have expended
thousands of dollars in cash, and of their own skilled labor
even more freely, to keep all these historic memorials in

200 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

good condition. It is also to be remembered that each
visitor, or group, requires a good deal of the time of the
brother who is appointed as escort, hence it is an imposi-
tion to expect to be admitted and escorted around without
the return of some honorarium. Every cent thus given is
wisely expended, and it would be a good thing if a fund
could thus be raised at each Mission to aid in its preserva-
tion and care.

The Mission library contains a large number of valuable
old books gathered from the other Missions at the time of
secularization. There are also kept here a large number
of the old records from which Bancroft gained much of his
Mission intelligence, and which, recently, have been care-
fully restudied by Father Zephyrin, the California histo-
rian of the Franciscan order with the purpose of writing
a new history from the standpoint of the order. Father
Zephyrin is a devoted student, and many results of his zeal
and kindness are placed before my readers in this volume,
owing to his generosity.

In the curio rooms are many objects of interest and
value, some of which are pictured and described elsewhere
in this volume.

The Santa Barbara fountain is the most ornate and
beautiful piece of stone work, I believe, in the whole Mis-
sion chain. It consists of an upright octagonal standard,
upon four sides of which are scrolled buttresses, divided
into three fillets, giving added grace and lightness. Only
one of these scrolls remains to show the beauty of the orna-
ment, the others having been knocked off. This standard
supports a bowl, some three feet around, sculptured into
eight oval panels, each panel connected by a well-executed
conventionalized leaf and wavy design above and below.
From the centre of this bowl rises another octagonal stem
supporting another and smaller bowl, carved in flutings.
From this still another standard arises, circular in form,
from which the water-pipe extends.

SANTA BARBARA 201

Just below the fountain, and now fenced into a corner of
the garden, is a large reservoir, with sides that slightly
slope to the edges. On these cement sides, which are nine
or ten feet wide, the Indian women of the Mission were
wont to bring their laundry. Let us try to imagine the
busy and interesting scene, — one that I fain would have
come back again. A carved figure of a crouching bear
spouts the water out of his mouth into this reservoir, which
is seventy feet long by six feet wide. The cement sides are
full of Indian women, each with her pile of clothes, splash-
ing, soaping, scrubbing, sousing, rubbing them ; at the
same time laughing, chatting, scolding, gossiping, or, per-
haps, even, sometimes serious and sad.

At the lower end of the cistern is another carved figure.
The cistern itself is built of solid stone, well cemented, and
made to endure.

202 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER XVI

LA. PUEISIMA CONCEPCION

A LTHOUGH the date of the founding of this Mission
J—\ is given as December 8, 1787, — for that was the
jL JL day on which Presidente Lasuen raised the Cross,
blessed the site, celebrated mass, and preached a dedicatory
sermon, — there was no work done for several months,
owing to the coming on of the rainy season. In the middle
of March, 1788, Sergeant Cota of Santa Barbara, with
a band of laborers and an escort, went up to prepare the
necessary buildings ; and early in April Lasuen, accom-
panied by Padres Vicente Fuster and Jose Arroita, fol-
lowed. As early as August the roll showed an acquisition
of seventy-nine neophytes. During the first decade nearly
a thousand baptisms were recorded, and the Mission flour-
ished in all departments. Large crops of wheat and grain
were raised, and live-stock increased rapidly. In 1804
the population numbered 1522, the highest on record dur-
ing its history, and in 1810 the number of live-stock re-
ported was over 20,000 ; but the unusual prosperity that
attended this Mission during its earlier years was in-
terrupted by a series of exceptional misfortunes.

The first church erected was crude and unstable, and fell
rapidly into decay. Scarcely a dozen years had passed,
when it became necessary to build a new one. This was
constructed of adobe and roofed with tile. It was com-
pleted in 1802, but although well built, it was totally de-
stroyed by an earthquake, as we shall see later on.

The Indians of this section were remarkably intelligent
as well as diligent, and during the first years of the Mission
there were over fifty rancherias in the district. According

Plate XXX

a, BELLS OF SAN .MAN CAPISTRANO MISSION

b. l;i [NS "I l.\ PI BlSIMA MISSION

LA PURISIMA CONCEPCION 203

to the report of Padre Pay eras in 1810 they were docile
and industrious. This indefatigable worker, with the as-
sistance of interpreters, prepared a catechism and manual
of confession in the native language which he found very
useful in imparting religious instruction and in uprooting
the prevailing idolatry. In a little over twenty years the
entire population for many leagues had been baptized, and
were numbered among the converts.

This period of peace and prosperity was followed by
sudden disaster. The earthquake of 1812, already noted
as the most severe ever known on the Pacific Coast, brought
devastation to Purisima. The morning of December 21
found padres and Indians rejoicing in the possession of the
fruits of their labor of years, — a fine church, many Mis-
sion buildings, and a hundred houses built of adobe and
occupied by the natives. A few hours afterward little was
left that was fit for even temporary use. The first vibra-
tion, lasting four minutes, damaged the walls of the
church. The second shock, a half-hour later, caused the
total collapse of nearly all the buildings. Padre Payeras
reported that " the earth opened in several places, emitting
water and black sand." This calamity was quickly fol-
lowed by torrents of rain, and the ensuing floods added to
the distress of the homeless inhabitants. The remains of
this old Mission of 1802 are still to be seen near Lompoc,
and on the hillside above is a deep scar made by the earth-
quake, this doubtless being the crack described by Padre
Payeras. But nothing could daunt the courage or quench
the zeal of the missionaries. Rude huts were erected for
immediate needs, and, having selected a new and more ad-
vantageous site — five or six miles away — across the river,
they obtained the necessary permission from the presidente,
and at once commenced the construction of a new church,
and all the buildings needed for carrying on the Mission.
Water for irrigation and domestic purposes was brought
in cement pipes, made and laid under the direction of the

204 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

padres from Salsperde Creek, three miles away. But other
misfortunes were in store for these unlucky people. Dur-
ing a drought in the winter of 1816—1817 hundreds of
sheep perished for lack of feed, and in 1818 nearly all
the neophytes' houses were destroyed by fire.

In 1823 the Mission lost one of its best friends in the
death of Padre Payeras. For nearly twenty years this
wise, zealous, and much loved missionary had made his
home at Purisima, and his firm hand had been felt in both
calm and storm, guiding and controlling in the midst of
every vicissitude. Had he lived another year it is quite
possible his skill in adjusting difficulties might have warded
off the outbreak that occurred among the Indians, — the
famous revolt of 1824.

This revolt, which also affected Santa Ines and Santa
Barbara (see their respective chapters), had serious con-
sequences at Purisima. After the attack at Santa Ines the
rebels fled to Purisima. In the meantime the neophytes at
this latter Mission, hearing of the uprising, had seized the
buildings. The guard consisted of Corporal Tapia with
four or five men. He bravely defended the padres and the
soldiers' families through the night, but surrendered when
his powder gave out. One woman was wounded. The
rebels then sent Padre Ordaz and Tapia to Santa Ines to
warn Sergeant Carrillo not to come or the families would
be killed. Before an answer was received, the soldiers and
their families were permitted to retire to Santa Ines, while
Padre Rodriguez remained, the Indians being kindly dis-
posed towards him. Four white men were killed in the
fight, and seven Indians.

Left now to themselves, and knowing that they were sure
to be attacked ere long, the Indians began to prepare for
defence. They erected palisades, cut loop-holes in the
walls of the church and other buildings, and mounted one
or two rusty old cannon. For nearly a month they were
not molested. This was the end of February.

LA PURISIMA CONCEPCION 205

In the meantime the Governor was getting a force ready
at Monterey to send to unite with one under Guerra from
Santa Barbara. On the 16th of March they were to have
met, but owing to some mischance, the northern force had
to make the attack alone. Cavalry skirmishers were sent
right and left to cut off retreat, and the rest of the force
began to fire on the adobe walls from muskets and a four-
pounder. The four hundred neophytes within responded
with yells of defiance and cannon, swivel-guns, and mus-
kets, as well as a cloud of arrows. In their inexperienced
hands, however, little damage was done with the cannon.
By and by the Indians attempted to fly, but were pre-
vented by the cavalry. Now realizing their defeat, they
begged Padre Rodriguez to intercede for them, which he
did. In two hours and a half the conflict was over, three
Spaniards being wounded, one fatally, while there were
sixteen Indians killed and a large number wounded. As
the Governor had delegated authority to the officers to sum-
marily dispense justice, they condemned seven of them to
death for the murder of the white men in the first conflict.
They were shot before the end of the month. Four of the
revolt ringleaders were sentenced to ten years of labor at
the presidio and then perpetual exile, while eight others
were condemned to the presidio for eight years.

There was dissatisfaction expressed with the penalties,
— on the side of the padres by Ripoll of Santa Barbara,
who claimed that a general pardon had been promised ;
and on the part of the Governor, who thought his officers
had been too lenient.

An increased guard was left at Purisima after this
affair, and it took some little time before the Indians com-
pletely settled down again, as it was known that the Santa
Barbara Indians were still in revolt.

During all the years when contending with the destruc-
tive forces of earthquake, fire, flood, and battle, to say
nothing of those foes of agriculture, — drought, frost,

206 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

grasshoppers, and squirrels, — the material results of
native labor were notable. In 1819 they produced about
100,000 pounds of tallow. In 1821 the crops of wheat,
barley, and corn amounted to nearly 8000 bushels. Be-
tween 1822 and 1827 they furnished the presidio with sup-
plies valued at $12,921. The population, however, gradu-
ally decreased until about 400 were left at the time of
secularization in 1835. The Purisima estate at this time
was estimated by the appraisers to be worth about $60,000.
The inventory included a library valued at $655 and five
bells worth $1000. With the exception of the church prop-
erty this estate, or what remained of it, was sold in 1845
for $1110. Under the management of administrators ap-
pointed by the government the Mission property rapidly
disappeared, lands were sold, live-stock killed and scattered,
and only the fragments of wreckage remained to be turned
over to the j urisdiction of the padres according to the decree
of Micheltorena in 1843. The following year an epidemic
of smallpox caused the death of the greater proportion of
Indians still living at Purisima, and the final act in the
history of the once flourishing Mission was reached in 1845,
when, by order of Governor Pico, the ruined estate was
sold to John Temple for the paltry amount stated above.

Nearly forty years afterward Helen Hunt Jackson
visited the ruins, and thus vividly described the desolate
scene :

" Nothing is left there but one long, low adobe building, with
a few arches of the corridor ; the doors stand open, the roof is
falling in ; it has been so often used as a stable and sheepfold,
that even the grasses are killed around it. The painted pulpit
hangs half falling on the wall, its stairs are gone, and its sound-
ing-board is slanting awry. Inside the broken altar-rail is a pile
of stones, earth and rubbish thrown up by seekers after buried
treasures ; in the farther corner another pile and hole, the home
of a badger ; mud-swallows' nests are thick on the cornice, and
cobwebbed rags of the old canvas ceiling hang fluttering over-

LA PURISIMA CONCEPCION 207

head. The only trace of the ancient cultivation is a pear-
orchard a few rods oft", which must have been a splendid sight in
its day ; it is at least two hundred yards square, with a double
row of trees all around, so placed as to leave between them a
walk fifty or sixty feet wide. Bits of broken aqueduct here and
there, and a large, round stone tank overgrown by grass, showed
where the life of the orchard used to flow in. It has been many
years slowly dying of thirst. Many of the trees are gone, and
those that remain stretch out gaunt and shrivelled boughs,
which, though still bearing fruit, look like arms tossing in vain
reproach and entreaty ; a few pinched little blossoms seemed to
heighten rather than lessen their melancholy look."

The Mission of La Purisima Concepcion was built in
a can}''ada not far from the river. It stands northeast to
southwest, the southwest end buttressed with solid and well
built masonry. The main walls are of adobe, plastered
over. Parts of the buildings are in two stories, but every-
thing now (1905) is in sad ruins. Though it is as solitary
and deserted as San Antonio, it does not make the pathetic
appeal that that venerable and dignified structure does.
And it is hard to say why. The photograph shows that
it is not so striking a building, still there seems to be no
reason why one should not feel as sadly at its desolation
as one does at San Antonio. It is pathetic enough. The
tiles have been taken off the roof except where they have
fallen in and been broken to pieces ; some of the walls have
tumbled down ; others are rapidly crumbling away ; some
of the pillars of the corridors have fallen ; weeds have
grown everywhere, and, instead of giving the feeling of
kindly covering the desolation, they serve only to accen-
tuate it.

The corridors at La Purisima extended only in front of
the building. The pillars arc square with chamfered cor-
ners, and were evidently built of the material that hap-
pened to be readiest to hand at the moment, for some are
of stone, others of burnt brick, and still others of adobe.

208 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

At the time of my last visit in May, 1904, eighteen pillars
were still standing, and two had fallen. These pillars are
about three feet square. The corridors are ten feet wide
and extend the whole length of the building, which is about
three hundred feet. The width, without the corridor, is
about fifty feet.

The church is at the southwest end on the southeast side.
It is about eighty feet long. The windows are low and
arched, but there is little left to show what were the attrac-
tions of this church, so different from any of the others.
At one corner, doubtless where interested neophytes have
stood looking with luminous eyes upon the movements of
the officiating padre, now stands a growing tree.

The peculiarity of La Purisima is in the architectural
arrangement of the building. The church is a part, — one
large room merely, — in a structure that contains many
rooms. There is nothing that remains now of the wings
that used to connect, and the ploughing up of the field
near by has doubtless destroyed the foundations of walls,
did any ever exist.

An extensive view of the valley, down to the ocean, can
be had from the end of the corridor, or from the near-by
hills. It was an attractive outlook, and gave the padres
here more of a feeling of touch with the great outside when
the glint of the sunshine upon the ocean greeted their
watching eyes.

In regard to its present ownership and condition, a
gentleman interested writes :

" The abandoned mission is on ground which now belongs to
the Union Oil Company of California. The building itself has
been desecrated and damaged by the public ever since its
abandonment. Its visitors apparently did not scruple to deface
it in every possible way, and what could not be stolen was ruth-
lessly destroyed. It apparently was a pleasure to them to pry
the massive roof-beams loose, in order to enjoy the crash occa-
sioned by the breaking of the valuable tile.

LA PURISIMA CONCEPCION 209

" On top of this the late series of earthquakes in that section
threw down many of the brick pillars, and twisted the remainder
so badly that the front of the building is a veritable wreck.
During these earthquakes, which lasted several weeks, tile
which could not be replaced for a thousand dollars were dis-
placed and broken. To save the balance of the tile, as well as
to avoid possible accidents to visitors, the secretary of the oil
company had the remaining tile removed from the roof and
piled up near the building for safety."

210 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER XVII

SANTA CRUZ

IASUEN found matters far easier for him in the
founding of Missions than did Serra in his later
—^ years. The Viceroy agreed to pay $1000 each
for the expenses of the Missions of Santa Cruz and La
Soledad, and $200 each for the travelling expenses of the
four missionaries needed. April 1, 1790, the guardian
sent provisions and tools for Santa Cruz to the value of
$1021. Lasuen delayed the founding for awhile, however,
as the needful church ornaments were not at hand ; but
as the Viceroy promised them and ordered him to go ahead
by borrowing the needed articles from the other Missions,
Lasuen proceeded to the founding, as I have already
related.

At the end of the year 1791 the neophytes numbered
84. In 1796 the highest mark was reached with 523. In
1800 there were but 492. Up to the end of that year there
had been 949 baptisms, 271 couples married, and 477
buried. There were 2354 head of large stock, and 2083
small. In 1792 the agricultural products were about 650
bushels, as against 4300 in 1800.

The corner-stone of the church was laid February 27,
1793, and was completed and formally dedicated May 10,
1794 by Padre Pena from Santa Clara, aided by five other
priests. Ensign Sal was present as godfather, and duly
received the keys. The neophytes, servants, and troops
looked on at the ceremonies with unusual interest, and the
next day filled the church at the saying of the first mass.
The church was about thirty by one hundred and twelve

Plate XXXI

«. SANTA CTtUZ MISSION

'. SANTA BARBARA MISSION AND FOUNTAIN

THE
NF«V VQRK

PUBLIC LISRARYJ

Asto.-. Lencx ana Tiiden

SANTA CRUZ 211

feet and twenty-five feet high. The foundation walls to
the height of three feet were of stone, the front was of
masonry, and the rest of adobes. The other buildings were
slowly erected, and in the autumn of 1796 a flouring-mill
was built and running. It was sadly damaged, however,
by the December rains. Artisans were sent to build the
mill and instruct the natives, and later a smith and a miller
were sent to start it.

In 1798 the padre wrote very discouragingly. The
establishment of the villa or town of Brancifort, across the
river, was not pleasing. A hundred and thirty-eight neo-
phytes also had deserted, ninety of whom were afterwards
brought in by Corporal Mesa. It had long been the inten-
tion of the government to found more pueblos or towns, as
well as Missions in California, the former for the purpose
of properly colonizing the country. Governor Borica
made some personal explorations, and of three suggested
sites finally chose that just across the river Lorenzo from
Santa Cruz. May 12, 1797, certain settlers who had been
recruited in Guadalajara arrived in a pitiable condition at
Monterey ; and soon thereafter they arrived at the new
site under the direction of Comisionado Moraga, who was
authorized to erect temporary shelters for them. August
12 the superintendent of the formal foundation, Cordoba,
had all the surveying accomplished, part of an irrigating
canal dug, and temporary houses partially erected. In
August, after the Viceroy had seen the estimated cost of
the establishment, further progress was arrested by want
of funds. Before the end of the century everybody con-
cerned had come to the conclusion that the villa of Branci-
fort was a great blunder, — the " settlers are a scandal to
the country by their immorality. They detest their exile,
and render no service."

In the meantime the Mission authorities protested vigor-
ously against the new settlement. It was located on the
pasture grounds of the Indians ; the laws allowed the Mis-

212 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

sions a league in every direction, and trouble would surely
result. But the Governor retorted, defending his choice of
a site, and claiming that the neophytes were dying off,
there were no more pagans to convert, and the neophytes
already had more land and raised more grain than they
could attend to.

In 1805 Captain Goycoechea recommended that as there
were no more gentiles, the neophytes be divided between the
Missions of Santa Clara and San Juan, and the mission-
aries sent to new fields. Of course nothing came of this.

On the 12th of October, 1812, Padre Quintana was
found dead in his bed. On investigation it was decided
that the friar, who for some time had been in poor health,
unable to dress himself unaided, had died a natural death.
Two years later, however, rumors led to a new investiga-
tion, and it was then learned that he had been called out of
his bed to attend a dying man, set on, and brutally mur-
dered and mutilated in an unnamable fashion, and then
carefully placed in his bed and the door locked. The cul-
prit neophytes were discovered, and five out of the nine
arrested were sentenced to receive two hundred lashes each,
and then to work in chains from two to ten years. Two
others died in prison, and another died in 1817 in Santa
Barbara. Only one survived the punishment. The plea
of the murderers was that Quintana was excessively cruel,
that he had beaten two neophytes almost to death, and was
inventing a new instrument of torture, to prevent the use
of which his death was determined upon. This charge
was carefully investigated by the military authorities and
denied with emphasis.

Bouchard's advent caused a flurry at Santa Cruz in
1818. Padre Olbes was ordered to pack up and send every-
thing for safety to Soledad. In October he sarcastically
wrote that all were astir both at the Mission and the villa
of Brancifort, expecting the insurgents, " not to fight, but
to join them, for such is the disposition of the inhabitants

«•>

SANTA CRUZ 213

In November and December the irate padre reported that
on the approach of the two vessels the people of Brancifort
had deliberately sacked the Mission with the intention of
charging it upon Bouchard. But, as the wind prevented
a landing, they were left in the lurch. Olbes was excited
and forceful in his charges. The scoundrels had stolen
every movable article, had destroyed everything that could
not be moved, and they had desecrated the church and the
holy images. He declared he would abandon the estab-
lishment rather than longer submit to the outrages of such
wretches.

Naturally such charges could not be neglected, and in-
vestigations were instituted, the Mission in the meantime
being abandoned, and Olbes growing more violent as the
" pretended investigation " proceeded. The upshot of it
all was that the trouble grew out of Governor Sola's giving
an order that Santa Cruz be abandoned, and then sending
another order to Comisionado Buelna of Brancifort to the
effect that he was to go to the Mission, and if it was aban-
doned he was to remove all the property. On the morning
of the 23d of November Olbes with his neophytes set out
for Santa Clara. On the 24th Buelna went as ordered, and
found the buildings vacant, so he proceeded to carry out
his orders, forcing some of the doors to do so. In the mean-
time the majordomo of the Mission and a few Indians,
having doubtless heard that Bouchard had not landed, re-
turned to the Mission to save some of the Mission goods.
Imagine their amazement at finding Buelna already there,
dismantling everything. When the Governor's order was
understood, however, the two parties joined in the work;
and as one or two casks of wine and aguardiente could nob
be carried away they were spilled. Possibly some of the
liquor got into the throats of the workers. The result of
this on the workers was not to promote care, and there is
no doubt many reckless acts were performed. Some of the
Mission goods were buried or otherwise concealed; others

214 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

were taken by the majordomo in a cart to Santa Clara,
and others listed by Buelna and removed to the villa.
Among the latter things was a trunk of the padre's, which,
unfortunately, was broken into ; and certain stockings given
to a young lady led to the detection of the criminals, two
of whom were duly punished. This investigation calmed
the wrath of the clerical authorities, who soon saw that
Olbes had been unduly excited, and the irate padre in a
short time dutifully returned to his work.

In February, 1819, however, he was again in trouble.
All but three of his neophytes fled because some one had
told them that the villa soldiers were coming to take them
prisoners. But later on they returned and all was calm
again. The crops were good, and the cattle and sheep
herds increasing.

In the decade 1820—30 population declined rapidly,
though in live-stock the Mission about held its own, and in
agriculture actually increased. In 1823, however, there
was another attempt to suppress it, and this doubtless came
from the conflicts between the villa of Brancifort and the
Mission. The effort, like the former one, was unsuccessful.

In 1834—35 Ignacio del Valle acted as comisionado, and
put in effect the order of secularization. His valuation of
the property was $47,000, exclusive of land and church
property, besides $10,000 distributed to the Indians. There
were no subsequent distributions, yet the property disap-
peared, for, in 1839, when Visitador Hartwell went to
Santa Cruz he found only about one sixth of the live-stock
of the inventory of four years ago. The neophytes were
organized into a pueblo, named Figueroa after the Gover-
nor ; but it was a mere organization in name, and, the con-
dition of the ex-Mission was no different from that of any
of the others.

The statistics for the whole period of the Mission's ex-
istence, 1791-1834 are: baptisms, 2466 ; marriages, 847 ;
deaths, 2035. The largest population was 644 in 1798.

SANTA CRUZ 215

The largest number of cattle was 3700 in 1828; horses,
900, in the same year; mules, 92, in 1805 ; sheep, 8300, in
1826.

In January, 1840, an earthquake and tidal wave brought
disaster. The tower fell, and a number of tiles were car-
ried off, a kind of premonition of the final disaster of 1851,
when the walls fell, and treasure seekers completed the work
of demolition.

The community of the Mission was completely broken up
in 1841—42, everything being regarded, henceforth, as
part of Brancifort. In 1845 the lands, buildings, and
fruit trees of the ex-Mission were valued at less than
$1000, and only about forty Indians were known to remain.
The Mission has now entirely disappeared.

216 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER XVIII

LA SOLEDAD

THE Mission of " Our Lady of Solitude " has only
brief record in written history ; but the little that
is known and the present condition of the ruins
suggest much that has never been recorded.

Early in 1791 Padre Lasuen, who was searching for suit-
able locations for two new Missions, arrived at a point mid-
way between San Antonio and Santa Clara. With quick
perception he recognized the advantages of Soledad, known
to the Indians as Chuttusgclis. The name of this region,
bestowed by Crespi years previous, was suggestive of its
solitude and dreariness ; but the wide, vacant fields indi-
cated good pasturage in seasons favored with much rain,
and the possibility of securing water for irrigation prom-
ised crops from the arid lands. Lasuen immediately se-
lected the most advantageous site for the new Mission, but
several months elapsed before circumstances permitted the
erection of the first rude structures.

On October 9 he returned, attended by Lieutenant Ar-
giiello and the guards, two priests, and a few Indians. It
would not require a very vivid imagination to conceive that
the inauguration ceremonies of ushering into existence the
thirteenth Franciscan Mission were most impressive, — the
little band assembled being the only visible occupants of
thousands of acres, bare and brown, stretching away on
every side in undisturbed silence. Little did the venerable
padre dream of the pathetic scenes to be enacted in that
quiet spot, or of the fragments that a century later would
mark the place consecrated by him, as with placid face and

Plate XXXII

•*

■ -£- \^

<#**»*£

l;i LNS <)l LA SOLEDA.D MISSION

LA SOLEDAD 217

hopeful heart he planted the Mission cross in the stillness
of that peaceful day.

There were comparatively few Indians in that immediate
region, and only eleven converts were reported as the result
of the efforts of the first year. There was ample room for
flocks and herds, and although the soil was not of the best
and much irrigation was necessary to produce good crops,
the padres with their persistent labors gradually increased
their possessions and the number of their neophytes. At
the close of the ninth year there were 512 Indians living
at the Mission, and their property included a thousand
cattle, several thousand sheep, and a good supply of horses.
Five years later (in 1805) there were 727 neophytes, in
spite of the fact that a severe epidemic a few years pre-
vious had reduced their numbers and caused many to flee
from the Mission in fear. A new church was begun in
1808.

On the 24-th of July, 1814, Governor Arrillaga, who had
been taken seriously ill while on a tour of inspection, and
had hurried to Soledad to be under the care of his old
friend, Padre Ibanez, died there, and was buried, July 26,
under the centre of the church.

Being inland, Soledad was named as the place of refuge
during the alarm caused by the appearance of Bouchard;
and while there is little of definite record, there is no doubt
but that several bands of families from the different Mis-
sions did rendezvous here.

For about forty years priests and natives lived a quiet,
peaceful life in this secluded valley, with an abundance of
food and comfortable shelter. That they were blessed with
plenty and prosperity is evidenced by the record that in
]829 they furnished $1150 to the Monterey presidio. At
one time they possessed over 6000 cattle; and in 1821 the
number of cattle, sheep, horses, and other animals was esti-
ma+od at over 16,000. One writer credits them with having
an aqueduct fifteen miles long, supplying water for irri-

218 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

gating thousands of acres ; but I have not made careful
enough examination to know whether this statement has
any foundation in fact.

After the changes brought about by political adminis-
tration the number of Indians rapidly decreased, and the
property acquired by their united toil quickly dwindled
away, until little was left but poverty and suffering.

At the time secularization was effected in 1835, accord-
ing to the inventory made, the estate, aside from church
property, was valued at $36,000. Six years after secular
authorities took charge only about 70 Indians remained,
with 45 cattle, 25 horses, and 865 sheep, — and a large
debt had been incurred. On the 4th of June, 1846, the
Soledad Mission was sold to Feliciano Soberanes for
$800.

One of the pitiful cases that occurred during the decline
of the Missions was the death of Padre Sarria, which took
place at Soledad in 1835, or, as some authorities state, in
1838. This venerable priest had been very prominent in
missionary labors, having occupied the position of com-
misario prefecto during many years. He was also the
president for several years. As a loyal Spaniard he de-
clined to take the oath of allegiance to the Mexican Repub-
lic, and was nominally under arrest for about five years, or
subject to exile; but so greatly was he revered and trusted
as a man of integrity and great ability as a business man-
ager that the order of exile was never enforced. The last
years of his life were spent at the Mission of Our Lady of
Solitude. When devastation began and the temporal pros-
perity of the Mission quickly declined, this faithful pastor
of a fast thinning flock refused to leave the few poverty-
stricken Indians who still sought to prolong life in their
old home. One Sunday morning, while saying mass in the
little church, the enfeebled and aged padre fell before the
altar and immediately expired. As it had been reported
that he was " leading a hermit's life and destitute of

LA SOLEDAD 219

means," it was commonly believed that this worthy and
devoted missionary was exhausted from lack of proper
food, and in reality died of starvation.

There were still a few Indians at Solcdad in 1850, their
scattered huts being all that remained of the once large
rancherias that existed here.

The ruins of Soledad are about four miles from the
station of the Southern Pacific of that name. The church
itself is at the southwest corner of a mass of ruins. These
are all of adobe, though the foundations are of rough
rock. Flint pebbles have been mixed with the adobe of
the church walls. They were originally about three
feet thick, and plastered. A little of the plaster still
remains.

In 1904 there was but one circular arch remaining in all
the ruins ; everything else has fallen in. The roof fell in
thirty years ago. At the eastern end, where the arch is,
there are three or four rotten beams still in place ; and on
the south side of the ruins, where one line of corridors ran,
a few poles are still in place. Heaps of ruined tiles lie here
and there, just as they fell when the supporting poles
rotted and gave way.

It is claimed by the Soberanes family in Soledad that
the present ruins of the church are of the building erected
about 1850 by their grandfather. The family lived in
a house just southwest of the Mission, and there this grand-
father was born. He was baptized, confirmed, and married
in the old church, and when, after secularization, the Mis-
sion property was offered for sale he purchased it. As the
church — in the years of pitiful struggle for possession
of its temporalities — had been allowed to go to ruin,
this true son of the church erected the building, the
ruins of which now bring sadness to the hearts of all who
care.

Over the entrance is a niche in which a statue of Our
Lady of Solitude — La Soledad — used to stand. Me-

220 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

thinks that if the ghosts of things that were exist, surely
a weeping ghost of the Lady of Solitude haunts these
deserted and forlorn ruins.

Weep ! weep ! for the church of Our Lady of Solitude.
It is entirely in ruins. The adobe walls are rapidly melting
away. For years it has stood exposed to the weather, noth-
ing whatever being done to preserve it. It is roofless and
unprotected. The winds howl around it, the rains beat
upon it, the fierce sun shines upon it, and all do their part
to aid in its more speedy dissolution. It is not demolition ;
that could better be borne than this heartless abandon-
ment, this careless indifference, this hateful casting aside
of a once noble building, dedicated to high and blessed
purposes, sanctified by the earnest labors of devoted
men. It seems as if the building itself felt its deser-
tion, though smiling fields of wheat and barley surround
it. Nay, these evidences of material prosperity so close
at hand only serve to accentuate the devastation of the
old Mission.

The visitor to Soledad at the present day will find satis-
faction in a few minutes spent at the parish church of the'
new railway town. In the sacristy the Rev. Andrew Gar-
riga, the present priest, carefully treasures a chasuble said
to be over a hundred years old, which was worn by the
officiating padres at Old Soledad Mission. It is in perfect
condition. Father Garriga also has a painting of Our
Lady of Solitude that differs in spirit from any I have ever
seen. As a rule, pictures of the Virgin Mother after her
Son had ascended show her clad in mourning, with swords
in her heart, the former symbolic of her desolation, and the
latter of the sorrow that had pierced her soul. " But,"
says Father Garriga, " may it not be possible that this is
an erroneous conception. Can it be thought possible that
the Holy Virgin was not conscious of some of the wonderful
meaning of the resurrection of her Divine Son? So, while
she is alone, the Lady of Solitude, she is yet filled with

LA SOLED AD 221

unspeakable joy at the great work accomplished in her
son; and that is just beginning for the human race."
With these thoughts in mind he found an artist in a Mr.
Downing, of San Francisco, who, in 1903, painted the
picture that now hangs in the little chapel.

222 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER XIX

SAN JOSE DE GUADALUPE

THERE was a period of rest after the founding of
Santa Cruz and La Soledad. Padre presidente
Lasuen was making ready for a new and great
effort. Hitherto the Mission establishments had been iso-
lated units of civilization, each one alone in its work save
for the occasional visits of governor, inspector, or presi-
dente. Now they were to be linked together, by the found-
ing of intermediate missions, into one great chain, near
enough for mutual help and encouragement, the boundary
of one practically the boundary of the next one, both north
and south. The two new foundations of Santa Cruz and
Soledad were a step in this direction, but now the plan was
to be completed. With the Viceroy's approval Governor
Borica authorized Lasuen to have the regions between the
old Missions carefully explored for new sites. Accordingly
the padres and their guards were sent out, and simultane-
ously a work of investigation began never before known.
Reports were sent in, and finally after a careful study of
the whole situation it was concluded that five new Missions
could be established and a great annual saving thereby
made in future yearly expenses. Governor Borica's idea
was that the new Missions would convert all the gentile
Indians west of the Coast Range. This done, the guards
could be reduced at an annual saving of $15,000. This
showing pleased the Viceroy, and he agreed to provide the
$1000 needed for each new establishment on the condition
that no added military force be called for. The guardian
of San Fernando College was so notified August 19, 1796;

SAN JOSE DE GUADALUPE 223

and on September 29 he in turn announced to the Viceroy
that the required ten missionaries were ready, but begged
that no reduction be made in the guards at the Missions
already established. Lasuen felt that it would create large
demands upon the old Missions to found so many new ones
all at once, as they must help with cattle, horses, sheep,
neophyte laborers, etc. ; yet, to obtain the Missions, he was
willing to do his very best, and felt sure his brave associates
would further his efforts in every possible way. Thus it
was that San Jose was founded, as before related, on June
11, 1797. The same day all returned to Santa Clara, and
five days elapsed ere the guards and laborers were sent to
begin work. Timbers were cut and water brought to the
location, and soon the temporary buildings were ready for
occupancy. By the end of the year there were 33 converts,
and in 1800, 286. A wooden structure with a grass roof
served as a church.

The mountain Indians near San Jose did not like the
presence of the missionaries, consequently the padres were
apprehensive of trouble from the very start. Yet nothing
of a serious nature occurred until January, 1805. Then,
Padre Cueva was called upon to visit some sick neophytes
living in a rancheria some ten or fifteen miles to the east.
He was escorted by Majordomo Higuera and two soldiers,
as well as accompanied by a few neophytes. Either he was
treacherously guided to the wrong rancheria, and was there
attacked, or he was set on by hostiles on his return (the
records are not clear) , and Higuera killed, the padre struck
in the face, a soldier badly wounded, three neophytes and
all the horses killed. Though so badly demoralized, the re-
maining soldier fought on, killed a gentile, checked the pur-
suit, and managed to get back to the Mission. The news
was forwarded to San Francisco, and immediately a force
was sent out, augmented to 3-4 by settlers from San Jose,
under Sergeant Peralta, who followed the now fleeing hos-
tiles, killed eleven of them, and captured thirty, mostly

224 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

women. Peralta made another raid in February, but found
nothing but penitence and submission, one chieftain coming
from as far as the San Joaquin River to assure the officer
that he and his people had taken no part in the attack.

In April, 1806, Langsdorff visited Mission San Jose,
where Padre Cueva hospitably received him, arranged an
Indian dance for his entertainment (which he pictures),
and generally made a holiday in his honor. His first at-
tempt to reach the Mission by boat was unsuccessful ; but
on the second attempt, made a few days later, after per-
petually going astray up wrong channels, he managed to
find a landing ten miles away from the Mission. Of the
Mission buildings, etc., he says :

"Although it is only eight years since they were begun, they
are already of very considerable extent : the quantity of corn in
the granaries far exceeded my expectations. . . . The kitchen
garden is well laid out, and kept in very good order ; the soil is
everywhere rich and fertile, and yields ample returns. The
fruit-trees are still very young, but their produce is as good as
could be expected. A small rivulet runs through the garden,
which preserves a constant moisture. Some vineyards have
been planted within a few years, which yield excellent wine,
sweet and resembling malaga.

"The situation of the Mission is admirably chosen, and ac-
cording to the universal opinion, this Mission will in a few
years be the richest and best in New California. The only dis-
advantage is, that there are no large trees very near. . . . To
compensate this disadvantage, there are in the neighborhood of
the mission chalk-hills, and excellent brick earth so that most
of their buildings are of brick. The organization of the institu-
tion is entirely the same as at San Francisco. The habitations
for the Indians, las rancherias, are not yet finished, so that at
present they live chiefly in straw huts of a conical form."

In 1809, April 23, the new church was completed, and
President Tapis came and blessed it. The following day
he preached, and Padre Arroyo de la Cuesta said mass
before a large congregation, including other priests, sev-

SAN JOSE DE GUADALUPE 225

eral of the military, and people from the pueblo and Santa
Clara, and various neophytes. The following July the
cemetery was blessed with the usual solemnities.

In 1811 Padre Fortuni accompanied Padre Abella on a
journey of exploration to the Sacramento and San Joaquin
valleys. They were gone fifteen days, found the Indians
very timid, and thought the shores of the Sacramento of-
fered a favorable site for a new Mission.

In 1817 Sergeant Soto, with one hundred San Jose neo-
phytes, met twelve soldiers from San Francisco, and pro-
ceeded, by boat, to pursue some fugitives. They went up
a river, possibly the San Joaquin, to a marshy island
where, according to Soto's report, a thousand hostiles were
assembled, who immediately fell upon their pursuers and
fought them for three hours. So desperately did they
fight, relying upon their superior numbers, that Soto was
doubtful as to the result ; but eventually they broke and
fled, swimming to places of safety, leaving many dead and
wounded but no captives. Only one neophyte warrior was
killed.

In 1820 San Jose reported a population of 1754, with
6859 large stock, 859 horses, etc., and 12,000 sheep.

For twenty-seven years Padre Duran, who from 1825
to 1827 was also the padre presidente, served Mission San
Jose. In 1824 it reached its maximum of population in
1806 souls. In everything it was prosperous, standing
fourth on the list both as to crops and herds.

Owing to its situation, being the first Mission reached
by trappers, etc., from the East, and also being the nearest
to the valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, which
afforded good retreats for fugitives, San Jose had an
exciting history. In 1826 there was an expedition against
the Cosumnes, in which forty Indians were killed, a ran-
cheria destroyed, and forty captives taken. In 1829 the
famous campaign against Estanislas, who has given his
name to both a river and county, took place. This Indian

226 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

was a neophyte of San Jose, and being of more than usual
ability and smartness was made alcalde. In 1827 or early
in 1828 he ran away, and with a companion, Cipriano, and
a large following, soon made himself the terror of the ran-
cheros of the neighborhood. One expedition sent against
him resulted disastrously, owing to insufficient equipment,
so a determined effort under M. G. Vallejo, who was now
the commander-in-chief of the whole California army, was
made. May 29 he and his forces crossed the San Joaquin
river on rafts, and arrived the next day at the scene of
the former battle. With taunts, yells of defiance, and a
shower of arrows, Estanislas met the coming army, he and
his forces hidden in the fancied security of an impenetrable
forest. Vallejo at once set men to work in different direc-
tions to fire the wood, which brought some of the Indians
to the edge, where they were slain. As evening came on
twenty-five men and an officer entered the wood and fought
until dusk, retiring with three men wounded. Next morn-
ing Vallejo, with thirty-seven soldiers, entered the wood,
where he found pits, ditches, and barricades arranged with
considerable skill. Nothing but fire could have dislodged
the enemy. They had fled under cover of night. Vallejo
set off in pursuit, and when two days later he surrounded
them they declared they would die rather than surrender.
A road was cut through the chaparral with axes, along
which the field piece and muskets were pressed forward and
discharged. The Indians retreated slowly, wounding eight
soldiers. When the cannon was close to the enemies' in-
trenchments the ammunition gave out, and this fact and
the heat of the burning thicket compelled retreat. During
the night the Indians endeavored to escape, one by one, but
most of them were killed by the watchful guards. The
next day nothing but the dead and three living women were
found. There were some accusations, later, that Vallejo
summarily executed some captives ; but he denied it, and
claimed that the only justification for any such charge

SAN JOSE DE GUADALUPE 227

arose from the fact that one man and one woman had been
killed, the latter wrongfully by a soldier, whom he advised
be punished.

California in those days was not hospitably disposed to
unknown and unaccredited foreigners, so when, in 1826,
Jedediah Smith appeared in the province, having come
from the Great Salt Lake, he was looked upon with sus-
picion. After various experiences with officials in the
South, on working his way northward he finally reached
Mission San Jose. Padre Duran afterwards accused him
of enticing four hundred of his neophytes to run away, but
investigation did not confirm the charge. Meeting with
nothing but hostility, Smith crossed the Sierras, — the first
known case on record, — and in twenty-eight days reached
Salt Lake, having had to eat the horses that had succumbed
to the rigors of the trip.

Later Smith returned, was vouched for by Captain
Cooper at Monterey, and allowed to go back with full
equipment of mules, horses, and provisions. He was killed
in 1831 in New Mexico.

Up to the time of secularization the Mission continued
to be one of the most prosperous. Jesus Vallejo was the
administrator for secularization, and in 1837 he and Padre
Gonzalez Rubio made an inventory which gave a total of
over $155,000, when all debts were paid. Even now for
awhile it seemed to prosper, and not until 1840 did the
decline set in.

Captain Sutter of New Helvetia, one of the best known
of the early California pioneers, had trouble in 1839 with
a band of San Jose Indians, who came to him with a pass
from the padres, entitling them to visit their relatives, the
Ochumnes. Sutter permitted them certain privileges, but
ere long they attacked a ranchena of Zalesumnes, many of
whom, under Pulpule, were working for Sutter. They
killed seven of the men, and stole all the women and chil-
dren. This treachery so incensed Sutter that he joined

228 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

forces with Pulpule, freed the captives, and finally shot
ten of the aggressors, and delivered all the other San Jose
neophytes he could catch to the authorities.

In accordance with Micheltorena's decree of March 29,
1843, San Jose was restored to the temporal control of the
padres, who entered with good-will and zest into the labor
of saving what they could out of the wreck. Under Pico's
decree of 1845 the Mission was inventoried, but the docu-
ment cannot now be found, nor a copy of it. The popula-
tion was reported as 400 in 1842, and it is supposed that
possibly 250 still lived at the Mission in 1845. On the
5th of May, 1846, Pico sold all the property to Andres
Pico and J. B. Alvarado for $12,000, but the sale never
went into effect.

Mission San Jose de Guadalupe and the pueblo of the
same name are not, as so many people, even residents of
California, think, one and the same. The pueblo of San
Jose is now the modern city of that name, the home of the
State Normal School, and the starting-point for Mount
Hamilton. But Mission San Jose is a small settlement,
nearly twenty miles east and north, in the foothills over-
looking the southeast end of San Francisco Bay. The
Mission church has entirely disappeared, an earthquake
in 1868 having completed the ruin begun by the spoliation
at the time of secularization. A modern parish church has
since been built upon the site. Nothing of the original
Mission now remains except a portion of the monastery.
The corridor is without arches, and is plain and unpreten-
tious, the roof being composed of willows tied to the
roughly hewn log rafters with rawhide. Behind this is a
beautiful old alameda of olives, at the upper end of which
a modern orphanage, conducted by the Dominican Sisters,
has been erected. This avenue of olives is crossed by an-
other one at right angles, and both were planted by the
padres in the early days, as is evidenced by the age of the
trees. Doubtless many a procession of Indian neophytes

Plate XXX HI

THE
' vork

■Astor LenOX and ri/*^

•-is,
J 905

SAN JOSE DE GUADALUPE 229

has walked up and down here, even as I saw a procession
of the orphans and their white-garbed guardians a short
time ago. The surrounding garden is kept up in as good
style under the care of the sisters as it was in early days
by the padres.

What a fine location it is! With beautiful rolling hills
behind, the Mission Peak to the south, the front view lead-
ing the eye over fertile meadows and pasture land to what
was once swamp land, — but now reclaimed and more pro-
ductive than the dreams of the padres ever contemplated
for their best hilly soil, — beyond which is the placid and
silvery face of the bay. Even then the eye cannot rest,
for further still on the western shore are trees, foothills,
and the bold Santa Cruz range. During the rainy season
all this verdure and woods is washed clean, and everything
is rich, green, and beautiful. In the summer the green is
contrasted with the gold, and in the fall and winter new
tints come into the leaves about to fall.

The orphanage was erected in 1884 by Archbishop Ale-
many as a seminary for young men who wished to study
for the priesthood, but it was never very successful in this
work. For awhile it remained empty, then was offered
to the Dominican Sisters as a boarding-school. But as this
undertaking did not pay, in 1891 Archbishop Riordan
offered such terms as led the Mother General of the Domin-
ican Sisters to purchase it as an orphanage, and as such it
is now most successfully conducted. There are at the pres-
ent time about eighty children cared for by these sweet
and gentle sisters of our Lord.

The olive trees planted by the padres still bear plenti-
fully, and each February a large crop of rich, juicy olives
is gathered to be pressed for their oil, or put in large vats
and pickled for table use.

The Mission vines were still in existence until 1899,
when, becoming diseased, they were taken up and not re-
newed, the sisters feeling that wine-making was an industry

230 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

better suited to men than women, though for many years
the wine made at San Jose had been used only for sacra-
mental purposes.

Two of the old Mission bells are hung in the new church.
On one of these is the inscription : " S. S. Jose. Ano de
1826." And on the upper bell, " S. S. Joseph 1815, Ave
Maria Purisima."

The old Mission baptismal font is also still in use. It
is of hammered copper, about three feet in diameter, sur-
mounted by an iron cross about eight inches high. The
font stands upon a wooden base, painted, and is about four
feet high.

SAN JUAN BAUTISTA 231

CHAPTER XX

SAN JUAN, BAUTISTA

THE second of the " filling up the links of the
chain " Missions was that of San Juan Bautista.
Three days after the commandant of San Fran-
cisco had received his orders to furnish a guard for th«
founders of Mission San Jose, the commandant of Monterey
received a like order for a guard for the founders of San
Juan Bautista. This consisted of five men and Corporal
Ballesteros. By June 17 this industrious officer had erected
a church, missionary-house, granary, and guard-house, and
a week later Lasuen, with the aid of two priests, duly
founded the new Mission. The site was a good one, and
by 1800 crops to the extent of 2700 bushels were raised.
At the same time 516 neophytes were reported — not bad
for two and a half years' work.

In 1798 the gentiles from the mountains twenty-five
miles east of San Juan, the Ansayames, surrounded the
Mission by night, but were prevailed upon to retire. Later
some of the neophytes ran away and joined these hostiles,
and then a force was sent to capture the runaways and
administer punishment. In the ensuing fight a chief was
killed and another wounded, and two gentiles brought in
to be forcibly educated. Other rancherfas were visited,
fifty fugitives arrested, and a few floggings and many
warnings given.

This did not prevent the Ansayames, however, from kill-
ing two Mutsunes at San Benito Creek, burning a house
and some wheat fields, and seriously threatening the Mis-

232 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

sion. Moraga was sent against them and captured eigh-
teen hostiles and the chiefs of the hostile rancherias.

Almost as bad as warlike Indians were the earthquakes
of that year, several in number, which cracked all the adobe
walls of the buildings and compelled everybody — friars
and Indians — to sleep out of doors for safety.

In 1803 the Governor ordered the padres of San Juan
to remove their stock from La Brea Rancho, which had been
granted to Mariano Castro. They refused on the grounds
that the rancho properly belonged to the Mission and
should not have been granted to Castro, and on appeal
the Viceroy confirmed their contention.

In June of this year the corner-stone of a new church
was laid. Padre Viader conducted the ceremonies, aided by
the resident priests. Don Jose de la Guerra was the spon-
sor, and Captain Font and Surgeon Morelos assisted.

In June, 1809, the image of San Juan was placed on the
high altar in the sacristy which served for purposes of wor-
ship until the completion of the church.

By the end of the decade the population had grown to
702, though the number of deaths was large, and it con-
tinued slowly to increase until in 1823 it reached its greatest
population with 1248 souls.

The new church was completed and dedicated on June
23, 1812. In 1818 a new altar was completed, and a
painter named Chavez demanded six reals a day for decor-
ating it. As the Mission could not afford this, a Yankee,
known as Felipe Santiago — properly Thomas Doak —
undertook the work, aided by the neophytes. In 1815 one
of the ministers was Esteban Tapis, who afterwards be-
came the presidente.

In 1836 San Juan was the scene of the preparations for
hostility begun by Jose Castro and Alvarado against
Governor Gutierrez. Meetings were held at which excited
speeches were made advocating revolutionary methods, and
the fife and drum were soon heard by the peaceful inhabi-

Plate XXXIV

D
-

—

THE
PUBI - ^RY]

^Ast»r Tilden,

SAN JUAN BAUTISTA 233

tants of the old Mission. Many of the whites joined in
with Alvarado and Castro, and the affair ultimated in
the forced exile of the Governor, and Castro taking his place
until Alvarado was elected by the diputacion.

The regular statistics of San Juan cease in 1832, when
there were 916 Indians registered. In 1835, according to
the decree of secularization, 63 Indians were " emanci-
pated." Possibly these were the heads of families. Among
these were to be distributed land valued at $5120, live-
stock, including 41 horses, $1782, implements, effects, etc.,
$1467.

An inventory of 1835 gives the following: Buildings,
$36,000 ; implements, goods, and furniture, $7774 ; church
property (church, fully described, $36,000; ornaments,
etc. $7740, library, $461, bells, $1060, choir furniture,
$1643), $45,904; vineyards, lands, and buildings out-
side the Mission, $37,365 ; ranchos, probably including
live-stock, $19,107 ; credits, $1040; cash, $222; total,
$147,413 ; deducting amount distributed to Indians, $8439,
and debt $250, balance, $138,723.

Alvarado says that secularization was a success here
and at San Antonio, though nowhere else, the Indians
being free and making tolerably good use of their freedom.
After 1836 all traces of the community disappeared. The
Indians were uncontrolled except by the regular laws of
the province. A number of whites settled in the region,
and the name of the new pueblo was San Juan de Castro.
The outside gentile Indians caused a great deal of trouble
for a number of years, but were ultimately wiped out of
existence.

The summary of statistics from the founding of the
Mission in 1797 to 1834 shows 4100 baptisms, 1028 mar-
riages, 3027 deaths. The largest number of cattle owned
was 11,000 in 1820, 1598 horses in 1806, 13,000 sheep in
1816.

In 1845, when Pico's decree was issued, San Juan was

234 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

considered a pueblo, and orders given for the sale of all
property except a curate's house, the church, and a court-
house. The inventory gave a value of $8000. The popu-
lation was now about 150, half of whom were whites and
the other half Indians.

It will be remembered that it was at San Juan that
Castro organized his forces to repel what he considered
the invasion of Fremont in 1846. From Gavilan heights
near by, the explorer looked down and saw the warlike
preparations directed against him, and from there wrote
his declaration : " I am making myself as strong as pos-
sible, in the intention that if we are unjustly attacked we
will fight to extremity and refuse quarter, trusting to our
country to avenge our death."

When Sloat made his memorable landing at Monterey,
and California officially became a part of the United
States, General Castro was at San Juan, and from there
communicated with the conquerors ; and it was rather hu-
miliating to the California commander-in-chief that when
the Stars and Stripes were eventually raised over the ex-
Mission of San Juan it was done by Fremont and his
forces.

Later, when Flores revolted in the South, Fremont or-
ganized his noted volunteer battalion at San Juan. Those
were exciting times for the little town, for there were 475
mounted riflemen and 41 artillerymen, organized into
ten companies. The force duly marched from here on the
29th of November, passing San Miguel to San Luis Obispo
and thence over the Santa Ines range to Santa Barbara,
finally to Cahuenga where the formal capitulation of the
hostile forces took place.

In 1846 Pico sold all that remained of San Juan Bau-
tista — the orchard — to O. Deleisseques for a debt, and
though he did not obtain possession at the time, the United
States courts finally confirmed his claim. This was the last
act in the history of the once prosperous Mission.

SAN JUAN BAUTISTA 235

Now the town is utterly deserted. When the Southern
Pacific railway was built San Juan was left out on one side.
Nothing to-day suggests the activity and excitement of
the Mission and revolutionary days. Grass grows in the
streets and sleepiness and laziness reign supreme.

As one steps into the plaza at San Juan Bautista he
observes that one whole side is occupied by the arched
corridors of the monastery. The church is in the corner
to the right, separated from the corridors by an ugly
modern wooden building, surmounted by the bell-tower which
was erected by Father Rubio in 1874. The fachada is
plain, simple, and unpretentious. It is merely the end of the
church building, divided by a cornice moulding into two
sections, the upper and lower. In the upper the only
features are a deeply embrasured square window, above
which is another simple cornice, which, however, is only a
little wider than the window. In the lower section there are
three arches, the centre being the main entrance and much
larger than the other two. It faces almost due east. The
appearance of the fachada is not improved by the four
cypress trees which have been trimmed to the shape of
four elongated barrels.

Where the plaster has fallen from the walls it reveals
that the bricks are of adobe, though on the side a repaired
place shows the use of large, flat, burned bricks as well as
adobe. The padres were brick-makers in the modern sense
of the word. Not only did they know how to make adobe,
or sun-dried bricks, but the roof and floor tiles and the
bricks used in their buildings are all properly burnt, show-
ing a thorough knowledge of the art.

The monastery is of adobe, and the corridor floor is
brick-tiled. It is about 270 feet long, and 50 feet wide
(paced measurements). The corridor from the outside of
arch to the monastery wall is about twelve feet. The end
facing the street is built up with wood, and on it is a sign
which says : " Esta Mision f ue corncnzada dia 2-i Junio,

236 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

1797." The arches are evidently of flat burned brick,
and are not of uniform size, a peculiarity I have elsewhere
called attention to.

The entrance at San Juan Bautista seems more like
that of a prison than a church. The Rev. Valentin Closa,
of the Company of Jesus, who for many years had charge
here, found that some visitors were so irresponsible that
thefts were of almost daily occurrence. So he had a
wooden barrier placed across the church from wall to wall,
and floor to ceiling, through which a gate affords entrance,
and this gate is kept padlocked with as constant watchful-
ness as is that of a prison. Passing this barrier the two
objects that immediately catch one's eye are the semicir-
cular arch dividing the church from the altar and the old
wooden pulpit on the left.

The interior is different from most of the Missions in
that the only windows are four square apertures on each
side, almost at the top of the walls, just below which a
cornice runs the whole length of the building. Around the
church, about three feet from the floor, there is a kind of
narrow seat let into the walls. These walls are divided
into arches — seven on each side — evidencing the thought
in the minds of the original builders. It was their expec-
tation that the church would have to be enlarged into a
three-aisled structure as soon as the enlarged attendance
of the Indians demanded the extra space. The founder
of San Juan had great visions and hopes for the future.
The country was thickly populated with Indians, and the
success of the Mission is shown in the large number of
baptisms in so short a time. Doubtless had the original
plans been carried out San Juan would have developed
architecturally and have become a much more imposing
building than it is.

Of the modern bell-tower it can only be said that it is
a pity necessity seemed to compel the erection of such an
abortion. The old padres seldom, if ever, failed in their

SAN JUAN BAUTISTA 237

architectural plans. However one may criticise their lesser
work, such as the decorations, he is compelled to admire
their large work; they were right, powerful, and dignified
in their straightforward simplicity. And it is pathetic
that in later days, when workmen and money were scarce,
the modern priests did not see some way of overcoming
obstacles that would have been more harmonious with the
old plans than is evidenced in tins tower and many other
similar incongruities, such as the steel bell-tower at San
Miguel.

To return to the interior. The sixth and seventh arches
on the left open into a side chapel, in which is an altar to
the virgin, and the confessional. The walls throughout are
whitewashed, yet here and there a small patch of the
original mural decorations may be seen, in brownish-red,
green and light green, as on the further side of the seventh
arch. There is a corresponding chapel in the sixth and
seventh arches on the opposite side. In some places the
plaster has fallen, revealing that the construction is of
large flat bricks.

Inside the altar is a tombstone over the grave of Padre
Esteban Tapis. The inscription is in Latin and records
briefly his life-work. He was in America forty years, and
in California thirty-five. He died the 3d of November,
1825.

From the side chapel a door leads into a small hall,
lighted only by a triangle-shaped aperture in the wall,
An adobe stairway leads from this hall into the old pulpit,
which is octagonal, fastened to the wall, and rests on three
four-inch joists scrolled at the end. It is of rude panelling
in wood, recently painted a creamy pink.

At San Juan Bautista the old reredos remains, though
the altar is new. The six figures of the saints are the
original ones placed there when it was first erected. In
the centre, at the top, is Our Lady of Guadalupe ; to the
left, San Antonio de Padua ; to the right, San Isadore de

238 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

Madrid (the patron saint of all farmers) ; below, in the
centre, is the saint of the Mission, San Juan Bautista,
on his left, St. Francis, and on his right, San Buena-
ventura.

The baptistery is on the left, at the entrance. Over its
old solid, heavy doors rises a half -circular arch. Inside are
two bowls of heavy sandstone.

In the belfry are two bells, one of which is modern,
cast in San Francisco. The other is the largest Mission
bell, I believe, in California. It bears the inscription : " Ave
Maria Purisima S. Fernando RVELAS me Fecit 1809."

There is a small collection of objects of interest con-
nected with the old Mission preserved in one room of the
monastery. Among other things are two of the chorals ;
pieces of rawhide used for tying the beams, etc., in the
original construction ; the head of a bass-viol that used
to be played by one of the Indians ; a small mortar ; and
quite a number of books. Perhaps the strangest thing in
the whole collection is an old barrel-organ made by Ben-
jamin Dobson, The Minories, London. It has several
barrels and on one of them is the following list of its tunes :
Go to the Devil ; Spanish Waltz ; College Hornpipe ; Lady
Campbell's Reel. One can imagine with what feelings one
of the sainted padres, after a peculiarly trying day with
his aboriginal children, would put in this barrel, and while
his lips said holy things, his hand instinctively grind out
with vigor the first piece on the list.

SAN MIGUEL ARCANGEL 239

CHAPTER XXI

SAN MIGUEL, ARCANGEL

LASUEN'S third Mission, of 1797, was San Miguel,
located near a large rancherfa named Sagshpileel,
-J and on the site called Vahid. One reason for the
selection of the location is given in the fact that there was
plenty of water at Santa Isabel and San Marcos for the
irrigation of three hundred fanegas of seed. To this day
the springs of Santa Isabel are a joy and delight to all
who know them, and the remains of the old irrigating
canals and dams, dug and built by the padres, are still to
be seen.

On the day of the founding Lasuen's heart was made
glad by the presentation of fifteen children for baptism.
At the end of 1800 there were 362 neophytes, 372 horses
and cattle and 1582 smaller animals. The crop of 1800
was 1900 bushels.

Padre Antonio de la Concepcion Horra, who was shortly
after deported as insane, and who gave Presidente Lasuen
considerable trouble by preferring serious charges against
the Missions, was one of the first ministers.

In February of 1801 the two padres were attacked with
violent pains in the stomach and they feared the neophytes
had poisoned them, but they soon recovered. Padre Pujol,
who came from Monterey to aid them, did not fare so well,
for he was taken sick in a similar manner and died. Three
Indians were arrested, but it was never decided whether
poison had been used or not. The Indians escaped when
being taken north to the presidio, and eventually the padres
pleaded for their release, asking however that they be

240 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

flogged in the presence of their families for having boasted
that they had poisoned the padres.

In January, 1804, Padre Martin went with a soldier to
Guchapa, chief of the Cholan rancheria, fourteen leagues
away, to ask for some of his young men to make Christians
of them. Guchapa refused, and in repulsing the friar
and scorning his threats he said he was not afraid of the
soldiers, for they died the same as other men. In order
to modify the chief's ideas, thirteen soldiers were despatched
to capture him ; which they did, though he made a brave
resistance. On his arrival at the Mission he was concili-
ated with presents, and persuaded into meeting the padre's
ideas, finally departing leaving his son as a hostage for
the fulfilment of his promises.

In August, 1806, a disastrous fire occurred, destroying
all the manufacturing part of the establishment as well as
a large quantity of wool, hides, cloth, and 6000 bushels of
wheat. The roof of the church was also partially burned.
At the end of the decade San Miguel had a population of
973, and in the number of its sheep it was excelled only
by San Juan Capistrano.

In October, 1814, an expedition under Padre Juan
Cabot left San Miguel for the exploration of the Tulare
region. They must have travelled rapidly, for the nexb
day they camped on the edge of a large lake where was a
rancheria of seven hundred souls. Cabot baptized twenty-
six of the old and sick and then pushed on to another
rancheria — Sumtache - — which was at enmity with the
first. Misunderstanding the purport of the visit, the Sum-
taches fought the Spaniards, killed two horses, and only
ceased hostilities when one of their women was killed. Fi-
nally the region of King's River was reached, and, though
trees were scarce, it was deemed that somewhere in this
region a successful Mission could be established. In send-
ing the report to Lasuen, Padre Martin urged the estab-
lishment of such a Mission, claiming that if it were not done

Plate WW

-
-

SAN MIGUEL ARCANGEL 241

" Satan, war, and venereal disease would leave nobody to
be converted."

In 1818 a new church was reported as ready for roofing,
and this was possibly built to replace the one partially
destroyed by fire in 1806. In 1814 the Mission registered
its largest population in 1096 neophytes, and in live
stock it showed satisfactory increase at the end of the
decade, though in agriculture it had not been so successful.

Ten years later it had to report a great diminution in
its flocks and herds and its neophytes. The soil and pas-
ture were also found to be poor, though vines flourished
and timber was plentiful. Robinson, who visited San
Miguel, at this time, reports it as a poor establishment and
tells a large story about the heat suffocating the fleas.
Padre Martin died in 1824.

In 1834 there were but 599 neophytes on the register.
In 1836 Ignacio Coronel took charge in order to carry
out the order of secularization, and when the inventory was
made it showed the existence of property, excluding every-
thing pertaining to the church, of $82,000. In 1839 this
amount was reduced to $75,000. This large valuation
was owing to the fact that there were several ranches and
buildings and two large vineyards belonging to the Mis-
sion. These latter were Santa Isabel and Aguage with
5500 vines, valued at $22,162.

The general statistics from the founding in 1797 to
1834 give 2588 baptisms, 2038 deaths ; largest population
was 1076 in 1814. The largest number of cattle was
10,558 in 1822, horses 1560 in 1822, mules 140 in 1817,
sheep 14,000 in 1820.

In 1836 Padre Moreno reported that when Coronel
came all the available property was distributed among
the Indians, except the grain, and of that they carried
off more than half. In 1838 the poor padre complained
bitterly of his poverty and the disappearance of the
Mission property. There is no doubt but that here as

242 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

elsewhere the Mission was plundered on every hand, and
the officers appointed to guard its interests were among the
plunderers.

In 1844 Presidente Duran reported that San Miguel
had neither lands nor cattle, and that its neophytes were
demoralized and scattered for want of a minister. Pico's
1845 decree warned the Indians that they must return
within a month and occupy their lands, or they would be
disposed of; and in 1846 Pico reported the Mission sold,
though no consideration is named, to P. Rios and Wm.
Reed. The purchasers took possession, but the courts
later declared their title invalid. In 1848 Reed and his
whole family were atrociously murdered. The murderers
were pursued; one was fatally wounded, one jumped into
the sea and was drowned, and the other three were caught
and executed.

To-day San Miguel is desolate and forlorn. The present
pastor is old and infirm, and would find life hard were it
not for the kindness of a few of his people.

The register of baptisms at San Miguel begins July
25, 1797, and up to 1861 contains 2917 names. Between
the years 1844 and 1851 there is a vacancy, and only one
name occurs in the latter year. The title-page is signed by
Fr. Fermin Franco de Lasuen, and the priests in charge
are named as Fr. Buenaventura Sit jar and Fr. Antonio
de la Concepcion.

At the end of this book is a list of 43 children of the
<; gentes de razon " included in the general list, but here
specialized for reference.

The register of deaths contains 2249 names up to 1841.
The first entry is signed by Fr. Juan Martin and the
next two by Fr. Sit jar.

The old marriage register of the Mission of San Miguel
is now at San Luis Obispo. It has a title-page signed
by Fr. Lasuen.

In 1888 some of the old bells of the Mission were sent

SAN MIGUEL ARCANGEL 24,3

to San Francisco and there were recast into one large bell,
weighing 2500 lbs. Until 1902 this stood on a rude
wooden tower in front of the church, but in that year an
incongruous steel tower took its place. Packed away in a
box still remains one of the old bells, which has sounded its
last call. A large hole is in one side of it. The inscription,
as near as I can make out, reads "A. D. 1800, S. S.
Gabriel."

In 1901 the outside of the church and monastery was
restored with a coat of new plaster and cement. Inside
nearly everything is as it was left by the robber hand of
secularization, as is fully shown in the chapter on interior
decorations.

On the walls are the ten oil paintings brought by the
original founders. They are very indistinct in the dim
light of the church, and little can be said of their artistic
value without further examination.

There is also an old breviary with two heavy hand made
clasps, dated Antwerp, 1735, and containing the autograph
of Fr. Man. de Castaneda.

The arches at San Miguel are not all alike ; indeed,
careful observation shows that they are very irregular.
Nearest to the church a wooden post is now doing service,
then come two square pillars before the arches begin. The
first arch is a small semicircular one, followed by four
larger ones, and then two larger elliptical ones. These
two form a centre, for on the other side are four large
and one small semicircular arch as before.

Slightly to the right of the elliptical arch nearest the
church is a chimney, which rises a little above the comb
of the red-tiled roof. It is surmounted by six tiles, three
on one side, sloping towards the three on the other side,
these in turn capped with one tile laid flat over the ends of
all six. It adds a picturesque though simple feature to
the roof of the monastery.

There is a quadrangle at San Miguel 230 feet square,

244 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

and on one side of it a corridor corresponding to the one
in front, for six pillars of burnt brick still remain.

At the rear of the church was the original church, used
before the present one was built, and a number of remains
of the old houses of the neophytes still stand, though in a
very dilapidated condition.

San Miguel was always noted for its proximity to the
Hot Springs and Sulphur Mud Baths of Paso Robles.
Both Indians and Mission padres knew of their healthful
and curative properties, and in the early days scores of
thousands enjoyed their peculiar virtues. Little by little
the " superior race " is learning that in natural thera-
peutics the Indian is a reasonably safe guide to follow;
hence the present extensive use by the whites of the Mud
and Sulphur Baths at Paso Robles. Methinks the Indians
of a century ago, though doubtless astonished at the won-
derful temple to the white man's God built at San Miguel,
would wonder much more were they now to see the elaborate
and splendid house being erected at Paso Robles for the
purpose of giving to more white people the baths, the
virtue of which they so well knew.

SAN FERNANDO, REY DE ESPAGNA 245

CHAPTER XXII

SAN FERNANDO, KEY DE ESPAGNA

ON September 8, 1797, the seventeenth of the Cali-
fornia Missions was founded by Padre Lasuen, in
the Encino Valley where Francisco Reyes had a
rancho in the Los Angeles jurisdiction. The natives called
it Achois Comihavit. Reyes' house was appropriated as
a temporary dwelling for the missionary. The Mission was
dedicated to Fernando III, King of Spain. Lasuen came
down from San Miguel to Santa Barbara, especially for the
foundation, and from thence with Sergeant Olivera and a
military escort. These, with Padre Francisco Dumetz, the
priest chosen to have charge, and his assistant, Francisco
Favier Uria, composed, with the large concourse of Indians,
the witnesses of the solemn ceremonial.

On the 4th of October Olivera reported the guard-house
and storehouse finished, two houses begun, and prepara-
tions already being made for the church.

From the baptismal register it is seen that ten children
were baptized the first day, and thirteen adults were
received early in October. By the end of 1797 there were
fifty-five neophytes.

Three years after its founding 310 Indians were
gathered in, and its year's crop was 1000 bushels of grain.
The Missions of San Juan Capistrano, San Gabriel, San
Buenaventura, and Santa Barbara had contributed live-
stock, and now its herds had grown to 526 horses, mules,
and cattle, and 600 sheep.

In December, 1806, an adobe church, with a tile roof,
was consecrated, which on the 21st of December, 1812,

246 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

was severely injured by the earthquake that did damage to
almost all the Missions of the chain. Thirty new beams
were needed to support the injured walls. A new chapel
was built, which was completed in 1818.

By the end of 1810 neophytes had increased to 955, and
the healthfulness of the location was proven by the fact
that baptisms were twice as numerous as deaths.

San Fernando from the start seemed to be cramped for
want of lands. In 1804 there was a strong protest made
against granting the Camulos Rancho, and in 1816 Pico
ordered the sheep away from his land at the Simi Rancho,
as did also the proprietors of Refugio in 1817. Padre
Ibarra, in 1821, had a hot correspondence with the Santa
Barbara military authorities in reference to a proposed
grant of the Piru Rancho, on which he was pasturing the
Mission herds. The protest kept it from Guerra, the pro-
posed grantee, but did not save it to San Fernando, a fact
which caused considerable irritation on both sides. The
padre began to complain of the Santa Barbara presidio,
of which De la Guerra was captain, declaring that his
soldiers sold liquor, lent horses to, and generally demoral-
ized his neophytes, even sheltering them when they ran
away.

Already the Mission property had begun to decline,
though from 1822 to 1827 the records show that the Santa
Barbara presidio received supplies to the amount of
$21,203. In 1826 Governor Echeandia declared San Fer-
nando to be in the jurisdiction of Los Angeles instead of
Santa Barbara.

In 1837 the Mission funds to the amount of $2000 were
taken by the Los Angeles authorities into safe keeping, as
Governor Alvarado was marching south to punish the
southern people who had risen in rebellion against what
they termed his unjust rule. At San Fernando, on Janu-
ary 16, a force of about 270 men under Rocha were massed
to arrest Alvarado's march upon Los Angeles, and Alcalde

Plate XXXV]

W^^

' bj >yi < tht, [003, by i . r. 1't

a. SAN MIGUEL MISSION AM) CORRIDORS

b. RESTORED MONASTER"! A.ND MISSION (III Kill OJ SAN FERNAN

I'd

SAN FERNANDO, REY DE ESPAGNA 247

Sepulveda issued an address calling upon the citizens to
defend the honor of their beloved country against the Mon-
terey usurper. After some fruitless negotiations Alvarado
sent an ultimatum to Sepulveda, that if San Fernando was
not given up on the messenger's return he would take it by
force. Though his force was much smaller, the order was
obeyed at once. Rocha retired with his men to Los Angeles,
and Alvarado occupied the Mission. Soon afterwards
Alvarado entered Los Angeles, a council of the opposing
forces was held, a compact made, and peace restored.

In 1834 Lieutenant Antonio del Valle was the comision-
ado appointed to secularize the Mission, and the next year
he became majordomo and served until 1837. The in-
ventory of 1837 gives credits, $14,293 ; buildings, $56,785 ;
house utensils, $601 ; goods in storehouse, $5214 ; liquors,
etc., $7175 ; live-stock, $53,854 ; San Francisco Rancho,
$1925; grain, $618; tannery, $544; carpenter shop,
$127; blacksmith shop, $789; soap works, $512; mills,
$200; tools, $368; tallow works, $2540 ; church, $1500;
ornaments, etc., $4348 ; library of fifty works. The debts
were $1689. When Visitador Hartwell came in 1839 he
found everything in excellent condition, with large herds
for distribution among the Indians ; but the next year
things were far less satisfactory.

It was on his journey north, in 1842, to take hold of the
governorship, that Micheltorena learned at San Fernando
of Commodore Jones's raising of the American flag at
Monterey. By his decree, also, in 1843, San Fernando
was ordered returned to the control of the padres, which
was done, though the next year Duran reported that there
were but few cattle left, and two vineyards.

Micheltorena was destined again to appear at San Fer-
nando, for when the Californians under Pio Pico and
Castro rose to drive out the Mexicans, the Governor finally
capitulated at the same place he had heard the bad news
of the Americans' capture of Monterey. February 21,

248 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

1845, after a bloodless " battle " at Cahuenga, he " abdi-
cated," and finally left the country and returned to Mexico.

In 1845 Juan Manso and Andres Pico leased the Mission
at a rental of $1120, the affairs having been fairly well
administered by Padre Orday after its return to the con-
trol of the friars. A year later it was sold by Pio Pico,
under the order of the assembly, for $14,000, to Eulogio
Celis, whose title was afterwards confirmed by the courts.
Orday remained as pastor until May, 1847, and was San
Fernando's last minister.

In 1847 San Fernando again heard the alarm of war.
Fremont and his battalion reached here in January, and
remained until the signing of the treaty of Cahuenga,
which closed all serious hostilities against the United States
in its conquest of California.

Connected with the Mission of San Fernando is the first
discovery of California gold. Eight years before the great
days of '49 Francisco Lopez, the mayordomo of the Mis-
sion, was in the canyon of San Feliciano, which is about
eight miles westerly from the present town of Newhall,
and, according to Don Abel Stearns, " with a companion
while in search of some stray horses, about midday stopped
under some trees and tied their horses to feed. While rest-
ing in the shade, Lopez with his sheath knife dug up some
wild onions, and in the dirt discovered a piece of gold.
Searching further he found more. On his return to town
he showed these pieces to his friends, who at once declared
there must be a placer of gold there."

Then the rush began. As soon as the people in Los
Angeles and Santa Barbara heard of it they flocked to the
new " gold fields " in hundreds. And the first California
gold dust ever coined at the government mint at Phila-
delphia came from these mines. It was taken around Cape
Horn in a sailing vessel by Alfred Robinson, the translator
of Boscana's " Indians of California," and consisted of
18.34 ounces, and made $344.75, or over $19 to the ounce.

SAN FERNANDO, REY DE ESPAGNA 249

Davis says that in the first two years after the discovery
not less than from $80,000 to $100,000 was gathered.
Don Antonio Coronel, with three Indian laborers, in 1842,
took out $600 worth of dust in two months.

Water being scarce the methods of washing the gravel
were both crude and wasteful. And it is interesting to
note that the first gold " pans " were bateas or bowl-shaped
Indian baskets.

In March, 1902, a San Fernando Mission Indian died,
and was buried on the 22d by the side of his wife in the old
cemetery back of the church. Rojerio Rocha by name, he
was said to be one hundred and twelve years old at the time
of his death. He was one of the noted blacksmiths and
silversmiths of the Mission, in the days when it was famed
for its excellent iron work. When the division of lands took
place he was given about twelve acres, three miles east of
the Mission ; but later he was evicted, and thereafter felt
nothing but scorn, contempt, and hatred for the Americans
who dispossessed him. It was a cold, rainy night when he
was carted away from his home, and his wife died from the
exposure. He was quite familiar with the excitement at
the time of the discovery of gold, and was one of the few
neophytes who were allowed to visit the spot.

The church at San Fernando is in a completely ruined
condition. It stands southwest to northeast. The entrance
is at the southwest end and the altar at the northeast.
There is also a side entrance at the east, with a half-circular
arch, sloping into a larger arch inside, with a flat top and
rounded upper corners. The thickness of the walls allows
the working out of various styles in these outer and inner
arches that is curious and interesting. They reveal the
individuality of the builder, and as they are all structural
and pleasing they afford a wonderful example of variety
in adapting the arch to its necessary functions.

Four sets of pilasters on each side divide the walls into
effective panels, in each of which is set a sunk-in arch.

250 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

Upon each pilaster rests a corbel. Additional corbels are
placed between the pilasters, and on these the roof-beams
rest.

Nine square recesses, as if for windows, are to be seen
on both sides, but a few only are pierced through and used
as windows.

The church walls throughout are built of adobe.

The sacristy is in the. rear of the church, and it is evi-
dent that here, as in so many of the Missions, digging has
been going on. Over the entrance is an arch, shell-like
inside, built of burnt brick.

The choir loft is at the southwest end, over the main
entrance, which is a rounded arch outside and a flat one
inside.

The corridors of the inner court extended from this
church to the monastery — the building recently restored
by the Landmarks Club. Only one pillar now stands, all
the rest having tumbled. They were built of large flat
burned brick. Some of them were square, as at Purisima,
others are ruins of rounded columns. These latter were
made of square brick, and the rounding out was accom-
plished with cement.

The graveyard is on the northwest side of the church,
and close by is the old olive orchard, where a number of
fine trees are still growing. There are also two large
palms, pictures of which are generally taken with the
Mission in the background, and the mountains beyond.
It is an exquisite subject. The remains of adobe walls still
surround the orchard.

The doorway leading to the graveyard is of a half-
circle inside, and slopes outward, where the arch is square.

There is a buttress of burnt brick to the southeast of
the church, which appears as if it might have been an addi-
tion after the earthquake.

At the monastery the chief entrance is a simple but
effective arched doorway, now plastered and whitewashed.

SAN FERNANDO, REY DE ESPAGNA 251

The double door frame projects pilaster-like, with a four-
membercd cornice above, from which rises an elliptical arch,
with an elliptical cornice about a foot above.

From this monastery one looks out upon a court or plaza
which is literally dotted with ruins, though they are mainly
of surrounding walls. Immediately in the foreground is a
fountain, the reservoir of which is built of brick covered
with cement. A double bowl rests on the centre standard.

Further away in the court are the remnants of what may
have been another fountain, the reservoir of which is made
of brick, built into a singular geometrical figure. This is
composed of eight semicircles, with V's connecting them,
the apex of each Y being on the outside. It appears like an
attempt at creating a conventionalized flower in brick.

Two hundred yards or so away from the monastery is
a square structure, the outside of boulders. Curiosity
prompting, you climb up, and on looking in you find that
inside this framework of boulders are two circular cisterns
of brick, fully six feet in diameter across the top, decreas-
ing in size to the bottom, which is perhaps four feet in
diameter.

In March, 1905, considerable excitement was caused by
the actions of the parish priest of San Fernando, a French-
man named Le Bellegny, of venerable appearance and
gentle manners. Not being acquainted with the status quo
of the old Mission, he exhumed the bodies of the Franciscan
friars who had been buried in the church and reburied
them. He removed the baptismal font to his church, and
unroofed some of the old buildings and took the tiles and
timbers away. As soon as he understood the matter he
ceased his operations, but, unfortunately, not before con-
siderable damage was done.

252 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER XXIII

SAN LUIS, KEY DE FRANCIA

THE last Mission of the century, the last of
Lasuen's administration, and the last south of
Santa Barbara, was that of San Luis Rey.
Lasuen himself explored the region and determined the
site. The Governor agreed to it, and on the 27th of Feb-
ruary, 1798, ordered a guard to be furnished from San
Diego who should obey Lasuen implicitly and help erect
the necessary buildings for the new Mission. The founding
took place on the 13th of June, in the presence of Captain
Grajera and his guard, a few San Juan neophytes, and
many gentiles, President Lasuen performing the cere-
monies aided by Padres Peyri and Santiago. Fifty-four
children were baptized at the same time, and from the very
start the Mission was prosperous. No other missionary
has left such a record as Padre Peyri. He was zealous,
sensible, and energetic. He knew what he wanted and how
to secure it. The Indians worked willingly for him, and
by the 1st of July six thousand adobes were made for the
church. By the end of 1800 there were 337 neophytes,
617 larger stock, and 1600 sheep.

The new church was completed in 1801-2, but Peyri was
too energetic to stop at this. Buildings of all kinds were
erected, and neophytes gathered in so that by 1810 its
population was 1519, with the smallest death rate of any
Mission. In 1811 Peyri petitioned the Governor to allow
him to build a new and better church of adobes and bricks ;
but as consent was not forthcoming he went out to Pala,

Plate WWII

a. SAN Llis i;i;y MISSION

b. SAN n:\NClSCO SOL.VXO MISSION, AT SONOMA

SAN LUIS, REY DE FRANCIA 253

and in 1816 established a branch establishment, built a
church, and the picturesque campanile now known all over
the world, and soon had a thousand converts tilling the
soil and attending the services of the church.

In 1826 San Luis Rey reached its maximum in popula-
tion with 2869 neophytes. From now on began its decline,
though in material prosperity it was far ahead of any
other Mission. In 1828 it had 28,900 sheep, and the cattle
were also rapidly increasing. The average crop of grain
was 12,660 bushels.

Duhaut-Cilly left perhaps the best description extant of
San Luis in its palmy days. He visited it in 1827, and
says :

"At last we turned inland, and after a jaunt of an hour and a
half we found before us, on a piece of rising ground, the superb
buildings of Mission San Luis Rey, whose glittering whiteness
was flashed back to us by the first rays of the day. At that dis-
tance, and in the still uncertain light of dawn, this edifice, of
a very beautiful model, supported upon its numerous pillars
had the aspect of a palace. The architectural faults cannot be
grasped at this distance, and the eye is attracted only to the
elegant mass of this beautiful structure. . . . Instinctively I
stopped my horse to gaze alone, for a few minutes, on the beauty
of this sight."

Later he says, " The buildings were drawn on a large and
ample plan, wholly the idea of the Padre (Peyri) ; he directed
the execution of it, in which he was assisted by a very skilful
man, who had contributed also to the building of those at Santa
Barbara ; so, although these are much more sumptuous, at that
place may be recognized the same hand.

" This building forms a large scmare of five hundred feet on
each side. The main facade is a long peristyle borne on thirty-
two square pillars supporting round arches. The edifice is com-
posed, indeed, of only a ground-floor, but its elevation, of fine
proportions, gives it as much grace as nobleness. It is covered
with a tiled roof, flattened, around which reaches, as much with-
out as within the square, a terrace with an elegant balustrade
which stimulates still more the height. Within is seen a large

254 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

court, neat and levelled, around which pillars and arches similar
to those of the peristyle support a long cloister, by which one
communicates with all the dependencies of the Mission."

When Peyri saw that the republic was inevitable he be-
came its enthusiastic friend and swore allegiance ; but as
the plans of the spoliators became more open, and the law
of expulsion of all Spaniards was passed in 1829, he en-
deavored to obtain his passports, though unsuccessfully.
When Governor Victoria was exiled he went from San
Gabriel to rest and recruit awhile at San Luis Rey ; and
then the venerable padre decided that the time had come
for him to leave the scene of over thirty years of arduous
though congenial toil. Accordingly he went with Victoria
to San Diego, where a vessel had been chartered. The
story is told, and I do not question its material truth, that,
knowing he could not comfortably take leave of his Indians,
he fled in the night time, hoping to escape without their
knowledge. Missing him, however, in the morning, they
learned somehow that he had gone, so, mounting their
ponies, a large number of them rode to San Diego, hoping
to be able to bring him back. They arrived just as the
ship was weighing anchor. Standing on the deck, with
outstretched arms he blessed them amid their tears and
cries. Some swam out after the ship, it is said. He had
with him four neophyte boys, whom he took to Europe.

For many years the Indians left behind at San Luis Rey
were in the habit of placing candles and flowers before the
picture of Padre Peyri and offering prayers to him, plead-
ing with him to return. Even after his death this was kept
up, the simple-hearted Indians preferring to pray to a
saint, whose goodness they had known and felt, rather than
to those of whom they knew nothing but what they were
told.

In his address before the assembly May 1, 1834, Fig-
ueroa stated that three pueblos had been organized out of

SAN LUIS, REY DE FRANCIA 255

Mission communities, and that the one of Las Flores, by the
neophytes of San Luis Rey was flourishing. How true this
is there is no evidence in the records to show. By his decree
of November 4 San Luis Rey was made a parish of the
first class, and earlier, in October, he had issued a resolu-
tion of the assembly to the effect that Indian towns were
no longer to be called Missions. They were towns of the
republic, subject to the civil laws the same as other towns,
and not under the control of the padres alone.

San Luis Rey was one of the Missions where a large
number of cattle were slaughtered on account of the secu-
larization decree. It is said that some 20,000 head were
killed at the San Jacinto Rancho alone. The Indians were
much stirred up over the granting of the ranchos, which
they claimed were their own lands. Indeed they formed a
plot to capture the Governor on one of his southern trips
in order to protest to him against the granting of the
Temecula Rancho.

The final secularization took place in November, 1834,
with Captain Portilla as comisionado and Pio Pico as
majordomo and administrator until 1840. There was
ti^ouble in apportioning the lands among the Indians, for
Portilla called for fifteen or twenty men to aid him in
quelling disturbances; and at Pala the majordomo was
knocked down and left for dead by an Indian. The inven-
tory showed property (including the church, valued at
$30,000) worth $203,707, with debts of $93,000. The six
ranchos were included as worth $40,437, the three most
valuable being Pala, Santa Margarita, and San Jacinto.

Micheltorena's decree of 1843 restored San Luis Rey to
priestly control, but by that time its spoliation was nearly
complete. Padre Zalvidea was in his dotage, and the four
hundred Indians had scarcely anything left to them. Two
years later the majordomo, appointed by Zalvidea to act
for him, turned over the property to his successor, and the
inventory shows the frightful wreckage. Of all the vast

256 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

herds and flocks, only 279 horses, 20 mules, 61 asses, 196
cattle, 27 yoke oxen, 700 sheep, and a few valueless imple-
ments remained. All the ranchos had passed into private
ownership.

May 18, 1846, all that remained of the former king of
Missions was sold by Pio Pico to Cot and Jose Pico for
$2437. Fremont dispossessed their agent and they failed
to gain repossession, the courts deciding that Pico had no
right to sell. In 1847 the celebrated Mormon battalion,
which Parkman so vividly describes in his Oregon and
California Trail, were stationed at San Luis Rey for two
months, and later on, a re-enlisted company was sent to
take charge of it for a short time. On their departure
Captain Hunter, as sub-Indian agent, took charge and
found a large number of Indians, amenable to discipline
and good workers.

The general statistics from the founding in 1798 to
1834 show 5591 baptisms, 1425 marriages, 2859 deaths.
In 1832 there were 27,500 cattle, 2226 horses in 1828, 345
mules in the same year, 28,913 sheep in 1828, and 1300
goats in 1832.

In 1892 Father J. J. O'Keefe, who had done excellent
work at Santa Barbara, was sent to San Luis Rey to
repair the church and make it suitable for a missionary
college of the Franciscan order. May 12, 1893, the redcdi-
cation ceremonies of the restored building took place, the
bishop of the diocese, the vicar-general of the Franciscan
order and other dignitaries being present and aiding in the
solemnities. Three old Indian women were also there who
heard the mass said at the original dedication of the church
in 1802. Since that time Father O'Keefe has raised and
expended thousands of dollars in repairing, always keeping
in mind the original plans. He now contemplates the resto-
ration, or, rather, rebuilding — for all but the arches of
the corridors are entirely gone — of the monastery.

San Luis Rey is now a college for the training of mis-

SAN LUIS, REY DE FRANCIA 257

sionarics for the field, and Father J. J. O'Kecfc, O. F. M.,
is working as rapidly as means will allow to reconstruct
some of the buildings and use them for the purposes of the
college. It is planned to erect over fifty rooms, which will
include kitchen, pantry, refectory, library, class-rooms,
recreation room, infirmary, and rooms for the " religious."
The building will occupy the site to the left of the old Mis-
sion, where the arches of the corridors still remain. It will
be a story and a half high, mainly of adobe, made on the
ground. The quadrangle will be restored on the old lines,
only smaller (about one fourth to one third the size of the
former one), and a wash-house or laundry, a bath-house,
new water tank, etc., are already built. The remaining
space, inside the quadrangle, will be utilized as a house
garden. Of course none of the standing arches will be dis-
turbed. Those that are in the area will be utilized, as it is
planned to use the corridors for processions as in the old
days. The estimated cost is $20,000, exclusive of most of
the labor which will be done by the lay brothers of the col-
lege. The front wall will be 186 feet long and 14 feet high
to the ceilings, and the buildings will extend in wings, 174
feet, back to the end of the church, which is to the north-
west. Much of this work is already accomplished, and,
possibly, by the time this book is issued the front portion
will be erected. But Father O'Keefe is compelled to go
slowly, owing to the scarcity of funds, and I can only sug-
gest to my readers who desire to see San Luis Rey restored
to something of its former useful activity, that they will-
ingly contribute to aid to that end. Letters with checks,
addressed to Father O'Keefe, San Luis Rey Mission, San
Diego Co., Calif., will receive grateful acknowledgment.

Of this plaza it is said that after the order of secular-
ization had gone into effect it often saw the excitements
of the bull fight. Crowds of spectators used to assemble
on the roofs of the corridors, which afforded them an
excellent view and perfect safety. And rumor goes even

258 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

further, and asserts that Don Pio Pico himself, now and
again, would assume the role of matador and engage the
infuriated animal within, evidently enjoying the hearty
applause of his audience.

On the fachada at San Luis Rey are two brackets at the
foot of niches for statues. These are built of rounded
courses of bevelled brick, moulded to the shape required,
thus producing a pretty effect permanently. The pilasters
or engaged columns also are of moulded brick to give the
curved effects.

Immediately on entering the church one observes door-
ways to the right and left, — the one on the right bricked
up. It is the door that used to lead into the Mortuary
Chapel, later to be described.

A semicircular arch spans the whole church from side
to side, about thirty feet, on which the original decorations
still remain. These are in rude imitation of marble, as at
Santa Barbara, in black and red, with bluish green lines.
The wall colorings below are in imitation of black marble.

The holy-water vessels are both gone from their places
in the wall, but the original decorations that surrounded
them remain.

The main engaged columns, or pilasters, of which there
are eight, — four on each side, — consist of a base, with a
four-membered wainscot moulding, above which the column
rises to within about two feet of the ceiling. Here, equally
simple mouldings crown the pilaster. The decoration is
imitation of marble. The bricks of which the pilasters are
built are burnt, and the corner ones are specially moulded
in a rounded device to add a pleasing effect.

Over each window the original distemper decorations
remain, stretching out to the sides from a kind of mosaic
star.

The choir gallery is over the main entrance, and there
the great revolving music stand is still in use, with several
of the large and interesting illuminated manuscript sing-

Plate XXXV III

a. SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA MISSION

4. GRAVEYARD AND REAR OF SANTA INfiS MISSION

SAN LUIS, REY DE FRANCIA 259

ing-books of the early days. In Mission days it was gen-
erally the custom to have two chanters, who took care of
the singing and the books. These, with all the other
singers, stood around the revolving music-stand, on which
the large manuscript chorals were placed.

The old byzantine pulpit still occupies its original posi-
tion at San Luis Rey, but the sounding-board is gone —
no one knows whither. This is of a type commonly found
in continental churches, the corbel with its conical sides
harmonizing with the ten panels and base-mouldings of the
box proper. It is fastened to the pilaster which supports
the arch above.

The original paint — a little of it — still remains. It
appears to have been white panels, lined in red and blue.

It was entered from the side altar, through a doorway
pierced through the wall. The steps leading up to it are
of red burnt brick. Evidently it was a home product, and
was possibly made by one of Padre Peyri's Indian car-
penters, who was rapidly nearing graduation into the ranks
of the skilled cabinet-makers.

The Mortuary Chapel, before referred to, is perhaps as
fine a piece of work as any in the whole Mission chain. It
is beautiful even now in its sad dilapidation. It was
crowned with a domed roof of heavy cement. The entrance
was by the door in the church to the right of the main
entrance. The room is octagonal, with the altar in a recess,
over which is a dome of brick, with a small lantern. At
each point of the octagon there is an engaged column,
built of circular-fronted brick which run to a point at the
rear and are thus built into the wall. A three-membered
cornice crowns each column, which supports arches that
reach from one column to another. There are two win-
dows, one to the southeast, the other northwest. The altar
is at the northeast. There arc two doorways, with stair-
ways which lead to a small outlook over the altar and the
whole interior. These were for the watchers of the dead,

260 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

so that at a glance they might see that nothing was
disturbed.

The altar and its recess are most interesting, the rear
wall of the former being decorated in classic design.

The original altar table rested upon a vase-like base,
built of brick and cement, now in ruins. On the occasion
of my last visit, as I sat looking at the sage and other
wild plants growing up on the chapel floor, the hens and
chickens feeding and scratching, lizards and horned toads
moving to and fro, with linnets, larks, and sparrows sing-
ing and chirping upon the walls above, I could not help
the reflection that Nature pays no attention to the works
of the past. She lives only for to-day. If the splendid
achievements of architecture of man are neglected, they
fall into ruins, and the lowest of the animals and insects
come and take possession of them; the drifting seeds of
the humblest weeds find lodgment and grow even in the
places once held most sacred. There is no regretting, no
mourning, no weeping. Only what is, is, and that must be
utilized now.

Father O'Keefe assures me that this chapel is of the third
order of St. Francis, the founder of the Franciscan Order.
In the oval space over the arch which spans the entrance
to the altar are the " arms " of the third order, consisting
of the Cross and the five wounds (the stigmata) of Christ,
which were conferred upon St. Francis as a special sign
of divine favor.

SANTA INES 261

CHAPTER XXIV

SANTA INES

EAUTIFUL for situation " was the spot selected
for the only Mission founded during the first
decade of the nineteenth century, — Santa Ines.

Governor Borica, who called California " the most peace-
ful and quiet country on earth," and under whose orders
Padre Lasuen had established the five Missions of 1796—97,
had himself made explorations in the scenic mountainous
regions of the coast, and recommended the location after-
wards determined upon, called by the Indians Alajulapu,
meaning rincon, or corner.

The native population was reported to number over a
thousand, and the fact that they were frequently engaged
in petty hostilities among themselves rendered it necessary
to employ unusual care in initiating the new enterprise.
Presidente Tapis therefore asked the Governor for a larger
guard than was generally assigned for protecting the
Missions, and a sergeant and nine men were ordered for
that purpose.

The distance from Santa Barbara was about thirty-five
miles, over a rough road, hardly more than a trail, wind-
ing in and out among the foothills, and gradually climbing
up into the mountains in the midst of most charming and
romantic scenery. The quaint procession, consisting of
Padre presidente Tapis and three other priests, Command-
ant Carrillo, and the soldiers, and a large number of neo-
phytes from Santa Barbara, slowly marched over this
mountainous road, into the woody recesses where nestled
the future home of the Mission of Santa Ines, and where

262 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

the usual ceremonies of foundation took place September
17, 1804. Padres Calzada, Gutierrez, and Cipres assisted
President Tapis, and the two former remained as the mis-
sionaries in charge.

The first result of the founding of this Mission was the
immediate baptism of twenty-seven children, a scene worthy
of the canvas of a genius, could any modern painter con-
ceive of the real picture, — the group of dusky little ones
with sombre, wondering eyes, and the long-gowned priests,
with the soldiers on guard and the watchful Indians in
native costume in the background, — all in the temple of
nature's creating.

This auspicious opening was not followed by uninter-
rupted prosperity. During the existence of the Mission,
about thirty years, there was an annual average of forty-
five baptisms, but also an annual average of fortj^-two
deaths. The largest number of neophytes at any one time
was in 1816, when there were 768 ; but many of these
came from neighboring Missions. Although comparatively
few in number, the results of their toil demonstrated
the efficiency of padres and people. According to official
reports, the total number of cattle, sheep, horses, mules,
and swine possessed by them in 1821 was 12,368. They
raised large crops of wheat, barley, corn, and beans, and
accumulated stores of tallow, hides, wool, and soap. Be-
tween 1822 and 1827 they furnished supplies to the pre-
sidio at Santa Barbara valued at $10,767, — all the fruit
of the labors of the neophytes, the so-called " lazy In-
dians," who received nothing in return for these contribu-
tions but " drafts " on the California treasury, that were
never honored.

The first church erected was not elaborate, but it was
roofed with tiles, and was ample in size for all needful
purposes. In 1812 an earthquake caused a partial col-
lapse of this structure. The corner of the church fell,
roofs were ruined, walls cracked, and many buildings near

Plate XXXIX

PADRE PEYRI, THE FOUNDER <>K SAN LUIS RKV

SANTA INKS 263

the Mission were destroyed. This was a serious calamity,
but the padres never seemed daunted by adverse circum-
stances. They held the usual services in a granary, tempo-
rarily, and in 1817 completed the building of a new church
constructed of brick and adobe, which still remains. In
1829 the Mission property was said to resemble that at
Santa Barbara. On one side were gardens and orchards,
on the other houses and Indian huts, and in front was a
large enclosure, built of brick and used for bathing and
washing purposes.

The character of the natives of this region was of a more
turbulent nature than that of some of the California tribes.
They were alert, intelligent, and not slow to discover occa-
sion for resentment either among themselves or in their
association with the white race. They were the first occu-
pants of the land, and the yoke that compelled them to
labor for the support of the soldiers and submit to their
control was galling. This spirit of revolt led to an up-
rising that caused much temporary alarm. It was on Sun-
day, February 21, 1824, that they attacked the Mission.
It is a matter of history that they had no ill-feeling against
the padres, but the severe treatment received at the hands
of the soldiers was the culminating cause of this act of re-
bellion. It was supposed that the plan had been brewing
for months among the natives of the surrounding country ;
but either circumstances did not permit of a well-concerted
scheme for attack at different points, or they lacked com-
petent leadership. The attack on Santa Ines was severe.
Though no one was killed, a large part of the Mission
buildings were burned, though it is probable the church
was not seriously injured, as there is no record of its hav-
ing been rebuilt. On Monday Sergeant Carrillo, from
Santa Barbara, arrived with a force, and the hostiles fled
to Purfsima, where, as elsewhere recorded, there was severe
fighting.

When Governor Chico came up to assume his office in

264 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

1835 he claimed to have been insulted by a poor reception
from Padre Jimeno at Santa Ines. The padre said he had
had no notice of the Governor's coming, and therefore did
the best he could. But Presidente Duran took the bold
position of informing the Governor in reply to a query,
that the government had no claim whatever upon the hos-
pitality of unsecularized Missions. Chico reported the
whole matter to the assembly, who sided with the Governor,
rebuked the presidente and the padres, and confirmed an
order issued for the immediate secularization of Santa Ines
and San Buenaventura (Duran's own Mission). J. M.
Ramirez was appointed comisionado at Santa Ines. At this
time the Mission was prosperous. The inventory showed
property valued at $46,186, besides the church and its
equipment. The general statistics from the foundation,
1804 to 1834, show 1372 baptisms, 409 marriages, and
1271 deaths. The largest number of cattle was 7300 in
1831, 800 horses in 1816, and 6000 sheep in 1821. After
secularization horses were taken for the troops, and while,
for a time, the cattle increased, it was not long before
decline set in.

In 1843 the management of the Mission was restored
to the friars, but the former conditions of prosperity had
passed away never to return. Two years later the estate
was rented for $580 per year, and was finally sold in 1846
for $1700, although in later times the title was declared in-
valid. In the meantime an ecclesiastical college was opened
at Santa Ines in 1844. A grant of land had been obtained
from the government, and an assignment of $500 per year
to the seminary on the condition that no Californian in
search of a higher education should ever be excluded from
its doors; but the project met with only a temporary suc-
cess, and was abandoned after a brief existence of six
years.

In 1844 President Duran reported 264 neophytes at
Santa Ines, with sufficient resources for their support.

SANTA INES 265

When Pico's order of 1845 was issued, the Mission was
valued at $20,288. This did not include the church, the
curate's house or rooms, and the rooms needed for the
courthouse. This inventory was taken without the co-
operation of the padre, who refused to sign it. He — the
padre — remained in charge until 1850, when the Mission
was most prohably abandoned.

At Santa Ines there were several workers in leather and
silver whose reputation still remains. In various parts of
the State are specimens of the saddles they made and carved
and then inlaid in silver that are worthy a place in any
noteworthy collection of artistic work.

In the Santa Ines Valley, several miles from the Mission,
are some ruins which are claimed to be those of the first
hospital ever erected in California.

There are five bells at Santa Ines, and I was interested
enough to obtain their pitch. There were two D's and
three F's, in two octaves. The inscription on one of the
back bells bears the legend " Manuel Vargas me fecit ano
de 1818." Another: "Ave Maria Purisima 1807," and
this inscription is duplicated on the bell now used on the
parish church at Lompoc. The one to the right is in-
scribed: " S. S. Juan Bautista ano de 1803," and still
another: "Me fecit ano de 1818 Lima, Mision de la Pu-
risima de la Nueba California." There is no inscription
on the top bell. It is not improbable that the two bells
inscribed to Ave Maria Purisima were contributed to the
later-built Mission, as was also the one from San Juan
Bautista.

The top bell has an interesting wooden frame holding it,
by means of which it was intended it should be swung,
though now it is out of repair.

Only ten arches remain at Santa Lies of the long
line of corridor arches that once graced this building.
In the distance is a pillar of one still standing alone.
Between it and the last of the ten, eight others used to

266 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

be, and beyond it there are the clear traces of three or
four more.

The church floor is of red tiles. All the window arches
are plain semicircles. Plain, rounded, heavy mouldings
about three feet from the floor, and the same distance from
the ceiling, extend around the inside of the church, making
a simple and effective structural ornament.

The original altar is not now used. It is hidden behind
the more pretentious modern one. It is of cement, or plas-
tered adobe, built out, like a huge statue bracket, from
the rear wall. The old tabernacle, ornate and florid, is
still in use, though showing its century of service. There
are also several interesting candlesticks, two of which are
pictured in the chapter on woodwork.

Almost opposite the church entrance is a large reservoir,
built of brick, twenty-one feet long and eight feet wide. It
is at the bottom of a walled-in pit, with a sloping entrance
to the reservoir proper, walls and slope being of burnt
brick. This " sunk enclosure " is about sixty feet long and
thirty feet across at the lower end, and about six feet below
the level to the edge of the reservoir.

Connected with this by a cement pipe or tunnel laid
underground, over 660 feet long, is another reservoir over
forty feet long, and eight feet wide, and nearly six feet
deep. This was the reservoir which supplied the Indian
village with water. The upper reservoir was for the use
of the padres and also for bathing purposes.

The water supply was brought from the mountains sev-
eral miles distant, flumed where necessary, and then con-
veyed under ground in cement pipes made and laid by the
Indians under the direction of the padres. The water-
right is now lost to the Mission, being owned by private
parties.

SAN RAFAEL ARCANGEL 267

CHAPTER XXV

SAN RAFAEL, ARCANGEL

IN spite of what Russian writers say to the contrary,
there is little doubt but that the mortality of the neo-
phytes in San Francisco led to the founding of San
Rafael as a health measure. The native name for the site
was Nanaguani. The date of founding was December 14,
1817. There were about 240 neophytes transferred at
first, and by the end of 1820 the number had increased to
590. In 1818 a composite building, including church,
priest's house, and all the apartments required, was
erected. It was of adobe 87 feet long, 42 feet wide, and 18
feet high, and had a corridor of tules. In 1818, when
President Payeras visited the Mission, he was not very
pleased with the site, and after making a somewhat careful
survey of the country around recommended several other
sites as preferable.

In 1824 a determined effort was made to capture a rene-
gade neophyte of San Francisco, a native of the San Ra-
fael region, named Pomponio, who for several years had
terrorized the country at intervals as far south as Santa
Cruz. He would rob, outrage, and murder, confining most
of his attacks, however, upon the Indians. He had slain
one soldier, Manuel Varela, and therefore a determined
effort was made for his capture. Lieutenant Martinez, a
corporal, and two men found him in the Canyada de No-
vato, above San Rafael. He was sent to Monterey, tried
by a court-martial on the 6th of February, and finally shot
the following September. This same Martinez also had
some conflicts about the same time with chieftains of hos-

268 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

tile tribes, north of the bay, named Marin and Quintin,
both of whom have left names, one to a county and the
other to a point on the bay.

When San Francisco Solano was founded 92 neophytes
were sent there from San Rafael. In spite of this, the
population of San Rafael increased until it numbered
1140 in 1828.

In 1824 Kotzebue visited the Mission and spoke enthu-
siastically of its natural advantages, though he made but
brief reference to its improvements. On his way to So-
noma Duhaut-Cilly did not deem it of sufficient importance
to more than mention.

Yet it was a position of great importance. Governor
Echeandia became alarmed about the activity of the Rus-
sians at Fort Ross, and accused them of bad faith, claiming
that they enticed neophytes away from San Rafael, etc.
The Mexican government in reply urged the foundation
of a fort, but nothing was done, owing to the political com-
plications at the time, which made no man's tenure of office
certain.

When the northern Missions were placed under the
padres from Zacatecas, Padre Mercado was sent to San
Rafael. He was a self-opinionated man, who soon got into
trouble with Commandante Vallejo of San Francisco. He
demanded the surrender of a neophyte whom the guard
liad arrested in accordance with Vallejo's orders; and when
the corporal of the guard asked for meat for his men,
Mercado insultingly told him " he did not furnish meat to
feed wolves." The corporal caused a sheep to be killed, and
this rendered Mercado furious. A few months later a band
of gentile Indians came to San Rafael, and during the
night a robbery was committed. The padre accused fifteen
of the strangers of the theft, arrested them, and sent them
to San Francisco. Fearful lest the whole band should
then come down upon him for vengeance, he armed his neo-
phytes and sent them out under the command of his major-

Plate XL

GARDES ENTRANCE AT SAN LUIS KEY

THE
• N ORK
'PUBLIC LIBRARY!

Astor, Lenox and Tilden,
Foiu dr.rx-ns.
1905

SAN RAFAEL ARCANGEL 269

domo to surprise the gentiles. The movement was a suc-
cess from his standpoint, as twenty-one were killed, as many
more wounded, and twenty made captives, some of these
latter being women and children. When the matter was
reported to Governor Figueroa he was exceedingly indig-
nant, especially as the padre asked for reinforcements to
" pacify " the rancherias. Mcrcado was suspended by his
prefect, pending an investigation, while Vallejo, releasing
the prisoners sent to San Francisco, also freed those in
bonds at San Rafael, and then went among the rancherias,
explaining the matter and doing his best to quiet the angry
feelings aroused. In the middle of the following year Mer-
cado was released and returned to San Rafael, two friars,
who had been sent to report upon the matter, claiming he
had nothing to do with the attack.

In 1834 Ignacio Martinez took charge as comision-
ado, and the inventory, September 31, shows values as
follows: church, $192; ornaments, etc., $777; 75 volumes,
$108; total, $1077. The Mission buildings, $1123; gar-
den or orchard, $968 ; boats, etc., $500 ; live-stock, $4-339 ;
Nicasio Rancho, $7256; credits, $170; total, $18,474;
debts, $3488 ; leaving a balance of $15,025.

In December there were distributed to 343 Indians,
doubtless heads of families, 1291 sheep and 439 horses.

The statistics for the seventeen years of the Mission's
history (1817-34) show 1873 baptisms, 543 marriages,
698 deaths.

The secularization decree ordered that San Rafael should
become a parish of the first class, which class paid its
curates $1500, as against $1000 to those of the second
class.

In 1837 it was reported that the Indians were not using
their liberty well; so, owing to the political troubles at
the time, General Vallejo was authorized to collect every-
thing and care for it under a promise to redistribute when
conditions were better. In 1840 the Indians insisted upon

270 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

this promise being kept, and in spite of the Governor's
opposition Vallejo succeeded in obtaining an order for the
distribution of the live-stock.

In 1845 Pico's order, demanding the return within one
month of the Indians to the lands of San Rafael or they
would be sold, was published, and the inventory taken
thereupon showed a value of $17,000 in buildings, lands,
and live-stock. In 1846 the sale was made to Antonio
Sunol and A. M. Pico for $8000. The purchasers did
not obtain possession, and their title was afterwards de-
clared invalid.

In the distribution of the Mission stock Vallejo reserved
a small band of horses for the purposes of national defence,
and it was this band that was seized by the " Bear Flag "
revolutionists at the opening of hostilities between the
Americans and Mexicans. This act was followed almost
immediately by the joining of the insurgents by Fremont,
and the latter's marching to meet the Mexican forces,
which were supposed to be at San Rafael. No force, how-
ever, was found there, so Fremont took possession of the
Mission on June 26, 1846, and remained there for about
a week, leaving there to chase up Torre, who had gone to
join Castro.

When he finally left the region be took with him a
number of cattle and horses, went to Sonoma, and on the
5th of July assumed active command of all the insurgent
forces, which ultimated in the conquest of the State.

From this time the ex-Mission had no history. The
buildings doubtless suffered much from Fremont's occu-
pancy, and never being very elaborate easily fell a prey
to the elements.

There is not a remnant of them now left, and the site
is occupied by a modern, hideous, wooden building, used
as an armory. Behind this are a few of the old pear trees
planted by the padres, but little, if anything, else remains.
Yet one feels the wisdom of the choice of even this spot.

SAN RAFAEL ARCANGEL 271

Sheltered and secluded by surrounding hills, that are
rounded and beautifully sloped, and then covered with
richest verdure and a variety of trees in which song-birds
nest and sing, and beneath which peaceful cattle and sheep
graze, it must have been a place of rest, content, and retire-
ment for the poor sick neophytes brought up from San
Francisco.

272 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER XXVI

SAN FRANCISCO SOLANO

FIFTY-FOUR years after the founding of the first
Franciscan Mission in California, the site was
chosen for the twenty-first and last, San Francisco
Sol«ano. Tins Mission was established at Sonoma under
conditions already narrated. The first ceremonies took
place July 4, 1823, and nine months later the Mission
church was dedicated. This structure was built of boards,
but by the end of 1824 a large building had been com-
pleted, made of adobe with tiled roof and corridor, also
a granary and eight houses for the use of the padres and
soldiers. Thus in a year and a half from the time the
location was selected the necessary Mission buildings had
been erected, and a large number of fruit trees and vines
were already growing. The neophytes numbered 693, but
many of these were sent from San Francisco, San Jose
and San Rafael. The Indians at this Mission represented
thirty-five different tribes, according to the record, yet
they worked together harmoniously, and in 1830 their
possessions included more than 8000 cattle, sheep, and
horses. Their crops averaged nearly 2000 bushels of grain
per year.

The number of baptisms recorded during the twelve years
before secularization was over 1300. Ten years later
only about 200 Indians were left in that vicinity.

In 1834 the Mission was secularized by M. G. Vallejo,
who appointed Ortega as majordomo. Vallejo quarrelled
with Padre Quijas, who at once left and went to reside
at San Rafael. The movable property was distributed

SAN FRANCISCO SOLANO 273

to the Indians, and they were allowed to live on their old
rancherias, though there is no record that they were form-
ally allotted to them. By and by the Gentile Indians so
harassed the Mission Indians that the latter placed all their
stock under the charge of General Vallejo, asking him to
care for it on their behalf. The herds increased under his
control, the Indians had implicit confidence in him, and he
seems to have acted fairly and honestly by them.

The pueblo of Sonoma was organized as a part of the
secularization of San Francisco Solano, and also to afford
homes for the colonists brought to the country by Hi jar
and Padres. In this same year the soldiers of the presidio
of San Francisco de Asis were transferred to Sonoma,
to act as a protection of the frontier, to overawe the Rus-
sians, and check the incoming of Americans. This meant
the virtual abandonment of the post by the shores of the
ba}'. Vallejo supported the presidial company, mainly at
his own expense, and made friends with the native chief,
Solano, who aided him materially in keeping the Indians
peaceful.

The general statistics of the Mission for the eleven
years of its existence, 1823-34, are as follows: Baptisms
1315, marriages 278, deaths 651. The largest population
was 996 in 1832. The largest number of cattle was 4849
in 1833, 1148 horses and 7114 sheep in the same year.

In January, 1838, Tobias, the chief of the Guilucos,
and one of his men were brought to Sonoma and tried for
the murder of two Indian fishermen. The prosecutor asked
for five years in the chain-gang for the chief, and death
for his companion, but the records do not show what
punishment was awarded.

In August a band of fifty horse thieves crossed the
Sacramento with a number of tame horses for the purpose
of stampeding the Sonoma herds. Vallejo gave battle
and killed thirty-four of the robbers, the rest surrendered,
and the chief was shot at Sonoma. In October of the same

274 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

year Vallejo issued a circular stating that certain persons
had made his friendly chief Solano drunk, and that many
Indian children had been seized and sold into slavery. So-
lano was arrested, and forces sent after the children, all
of whom were recovered and restored to their parents.

In 1838 he had worse troubles. Smallpox broke out
and thousands of northern Indians were swept away by
the dread disease. Vallejo estimated that fully 70,000
lost their lives. He claimed that the pestilence came from
the English settlements by way of Fort Ross, and he
urged that extra precautions be taken against it. For-
tunately it did not spread south of the bay.

In 1845, when Pico's plan for selling and renting the
Missions was formulated, Solano was declared without
value, the secularization having been completely carried
out, although there is an imperfect inventory of buildings,
utensils, and church property. It was ignored in the final
order. Of the capture of Sonoma by the Bear Flag
revolutionists and the operations of Fremont, it is impos-
sible here to treat. They are to be found in every good
history of California.

In 1880 Bishop Alemany sold the Mission and grounds
of San Francisco Solano to a German named Schocken for
$3000. With that money a modern church was erected
for the parish, winch is still being used. For six months
after the sale divine services were still held in the old
Mission, and then Schocken used it as a place for storing
wine and hay. In September, 1903, it was sold to the
Hon. W. R. Hearst for $5000. The ground plot was 166
by 150 feet. It is said that the tower was built by General
Vallejo in 1835 or thereabouts. The deeds have been
transferred to the State of California and accepted by the
Legislature. The intention is to preserve the Mission as
a valuable historic landmark.

The church is about thirty-six feet long and sixteen feet
wide. The vestibule is about fifteen feet square, and stairs

SAN FRANCISCO SOLANO 275

lead from it into the choir loft. This vestibule is lathed
and plastered. The front wall is about six feet thick, of
adobe faced with burnt red brick. The side walls of the
church join the ceiling in a curve, instead of square, but
this effect, I believe, is produced by lath and plaster, and
is not a feature of the construction. The interior condition
of the church can well be imagined after twenty-five years'
use as a hay barn.

The adjoining buildings are in even worse condition.
Unlike the church, which is roofed with shingles, these are
covered with tiles, but fully a fourth of them have fallen
in. To protect the walls a temporary wooden roof has
been put up. The building is divided longitudinally by
a thick wall of adobe, upon which poles rest supporting
the ridge poles. The rafters are unhewn poles, and the
crosspieces are of rudely hewn planks, upon which bundles
of brush are placed, and, finally, the covering of red tiles.
The ceilings to the rooms are strongly constructed, the
beams being strong hewn logs with hewn planks laid across
them. The marks of the adze or other tool are still clearly
to be seen on these logs and planks. The attic was un-
doubtedly used for some purpose, possibly for the sleeping-
quarters of the Indian children, as at so many others of
the Missions.

This building is about ninety-five feet long, and the roof
overhangs on each side to cover the corridors, which are
constructed in the plainest, simplest fashion. The corridor
roof is interesting, in that it is made of willows or other
brush laid across the roughly hewn rafters, then a strong
willow is laid at right angles, and the whole bound together
with rawhide thong's.

276 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER XXVII

THE MISSION CHAPELS OR ASISTENCIAS

THE Mission padres were the first circuit riders
or pastors. It is generally supposed that the
circuit rider is a device of the Methodist church,
but history clearly reveals that long prior to the time of
the sainted Wesley, and the denomination he founded, the
padres were " riding the circuit," or walking, visiting the
various rancherias which had no settled pastor.

Where buildings for worship were erected at these
places they were called chapels, or asistencias. Some of
these chapels still remain in use and the ruins of others are
to be seen. The Mission of San Gabriel had four such
chapels, viz., Los Angeles, Puente, San Antonio de Santa
Ana, and San Bernardino. Of the first and the last we
have considerable history.

LOS ANGELES CHAPEL

As I have elsewhere shown, it was the plan of the Spanish
Crown not only to christianize and civilize the Indians of
California, but also to colonize the country. In accordance
with this plan the pueblo of San Jose was founded on the
29th of November, 1776. The second was that of Los
Angeles in 1781. Rivera was sent to secure colonists in
Sonora and Sinaloa for the new pueblo, and also for the
establishments it was intended to found on the channel of
Santa Barbara.

In due time colonists were secured, and a more mongrel
lot it would be hard to conceive: Indian, Spanish, negro.

Plate XLi

w~ + >

■

a. BRUSH CHURCH, BELLS, AND CROSS AT SANTA ISABEL

*. CAMPANILE AND CHAPEL, SAM ANTONIO DE PALA

THE

:ARY'
, Astor, Lenox and Tilden ,

1905

THE MISSION CHAPELS 277

Indian and Spanish, and Indian and negro bloods were
represented, 42 souls in all. The blood which makes the
better Spanish classes in Los Angeles to-day so proud
represents those who came in much later.

There was nothing accidental in the founding of any
Spanish colony. Everything was planned beforehand.
The colonist obeyed orders as rigidly executed as if they
were military commands. According to Professor Guinn :

" The area of a pueblo, under Spanish rale was four square
leagues, or about 17,770 acres. The pueblo lands were divided
into so/ares (house lots), mertes1 (fields for planting), dehesas
(outside pasture lands), ejidos (commons), propios (lands rented
or leased), realengas (royal lands)."

On the arrival of the colonists in San Gabriel from
Loreto on the 18th of August, 1781, Governor Neve issued
instructions for founding Los Angeles on the 26th. The
first requirement was to select a site for a dam, to provide
water for domestic and irrigation purposes. Then to
locate the plaza and the homes and fields of the colonists.
Says Professor Guinn :

" The old plaza was a parallelogram 100 varas 2 in length by 75
in breadth. It was laid out with its corners facing the cardinal
points of the compass, and with its streets running at right
angles to each of its four sides, so that no street would be swept
by the wind. Two streets, each 10 varas wide, opened out on
the longer sides, and three on each of the shorter sides. Upon
three sides of the plaza were the house lots 20 by 40 varas
each, fronting on the square. One-half the remaining side was
reserved for a guard-house, a town-house, and a public granary.
Around the embryo town, a few years later, was built an adobe
wall — not so much, perhaps, for protection from foreign invasion
as from domestic intrusion. It was easier to wall in the town
than to fence the cattle and goats that pastured outside."

1 Suerte. This is colloquial. It really means " chance " or " hap-
hazard. " In other words it was the piece of ground that fell to the settler
by " lot."

2 A vara is the Spanish yard of 33 inches.

278 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

The government supplied each colonist with a pair each
of oxen, mules, mares, sheep, goats, and cows, one calf, a
burro, a horse, and the branding-irons which distinguished
his animals from those of the other settlers. There were
also certain tools furnished for the colony as a whole.

On the 14th of September of the same year the plaza
was solemnly dedicated. A father from the San Gabriel
Mission recited mass, a procession circled the plaza, bearing
the Cross, the standard of Spain, and an image of " Our
Lady," after which salvos of musketry were fired and
general rejoicings indulged in. Of course the plaza was
blessed and we are even told that Governor Neve made a
speech.

As to when the first church was built in Los Angeles
there seems to be some doubt. In 1811 authority was
gained for the erection of a new chapel, but nowhere is there
any account of a prior building. Doubtless some tem-
porary structure had been used. There was no regular
priest settled here, for in 1810 the citizens complained
that the San Gabriel padres did not pay enough attention
to their sick. In August of 1814 the corner-stone of the
new chapel was laid by Padre Gil of San Gabriel, but
nothing more than laying the foundation was done for
four years. Then Governor Sola ordered that a higher site
be chosen. The citizens subscribed five hundred cattle
towards the fund, and Prefect Payeras made an appeal
to the various friars which resulted in donations of seven
barrels of brandy, worth $575. With these funds the work
was done, Jose Antonio Ramirez being the architect, and
his workers neophytes from San Gabriel and San Luis
Rey, who were paid a real (twelve and a half cents) per
day. Before 1821 the walls were raised to the window
arches. The citizens, however, showed so little interest in
the matter that it was not until Payeras made another
appeal to his friars that they contributed enough to com-
plete the work. Governor Sola gave a little, and the citi-

THE MISSION CHAPELS 279

zens a trifle. It is interesting to note what the contribu-
tions of the friars were. San Miguel offered 500 cattle,
San Luis Obispo 200 cattle, Santa Barbara a barrel of
brandy, San Diego two barrels of white wine, Purfsima six
mules and 200 cattle, San Fernando one barrel brandy,
San Gabriel two barrels brandy, San Buenaventura said
it would try to make up deficits or supply church furniture,
etc. Thus Payeras's zeal and the willingness of the Los
Angelenos to pay for wine and brandy, which they doubt-
less drank " to the success of the church," completed the
structure, and December 8, 1822, it was formally dedicated.
Auguste Wey writes:

" The oldest church in Los Angeles is known in local Amer-
ican parlance as ' The Plaza Church/ ( Our Lady/ ' Our Lady of
Angels/ ' Church of Our Lady/ ' Church of the Angels/ ' Father
Liebana's Church/ and e The Adobe Church.' It is formally the
church of Nuestra Seiiora, Reina de los Angeles — Our Lady,
Queen of the Angels — from whom Los Angeles gets its name."

This latter statement is manifestly inaccurate, as the
pueblo was named long before the church was even sug-
gested.

The plaza was formally moved to its present site in
1835, May 23, when the government was changed from that
of a pueblo to a city.

Concerning the name of the pueblo and river, Rev.
Joachin Adam, Vicar General of the Diocese, in a paper
read before the Historical Society of Southern California
several years ago, said:

" The name Los Angeles is probably derived from the fact
that the expedition by land, in search of the harbor of Monterey,
passed through this place on the 2d of August, 1769, a day
when the Franciscan missionaries celebrate the feast of Nuestra
Seiiora de Los Angeles — Our Lady of the Angels. This expe-
dition left San Diego July 14, I76f), and reached here on the
first of August, when they killed for the first time some berrendos,

280 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

or antelope. On the second, they saw a large stream with much
good land, which they called Porciuncula on account of com-
mencing on that day the jubilee called Porciuncula, granted to
St. Francis while praying in the little church of Our Lady of
the Angels, near Assisi, in Italy, commonly called Delia Porci-
uncula from a hamlet of that name near by." This was the
original name of the Los Angeles river.

The last two recorded burials within the walls of the
Los Angeles chapel are those of the young wife of Nathan-
iel M. Pryor, " buried on the left-hand side facing the
altar," and of Dona Eustaquia, mother of the Dons
Andres, Jesus, and Pio Rico, all intimately connected with
the history of the later days of Mexican rule.

CHAPEL OF SAN MIGUEL

In 1803 a chapel was built at a rancheria called by the
Indians Mescaltitlan, and the Spaniards San Miguel, six
miles from Santa Barbara. It was of adobes, twenty-
seven by sixty-six feet. In 1807 eighteen adobe dwellings
were erected at the same place.

CHAPEL OF SAN MIGUELITO

One of the vistas of San Luis Obispo was a rancheria
known as San Miguelito, and here in 1809 the Governor
gave his approval that a chapel should be erected. San
Luis had several such vistas, and I am told that the ruins
of several chapels are still in existence in that region.

CHAPEL AT SANTA ISABEL (SAN DIEGO )

In 1816-19 the padres at San Diego urged the Gov-
ernor to give them permission to erect a chapel at Santa
Isabel, some forty miles away, where two hundred bap-
tized Indians were living. The Governor did not approve,
however, and nothing was done until after 1820. By

THE MISSION CHAPELS 281

1822 the chapel was reported built, with several houses,
a granary, and a graveyard. The population had in-
creased to 450, and these materially aided San Diego in
keeping the mountainous tribes, who were hostile, in check.
A recent article in a southern California magazine thus
describes the ruins of the Mission of Santa Isabel:

" Levelled by time, and washed by winter rains, the adobe
walls of the church have sunk into indistinguishable heaps of
earth which vaguely define the outlines of the ancient edifice.
The bells remain, hung no longer in a belfry, but on a rude
framework of logs. A tall cross made of two saplings nailed in
shape, marks the consecrated spot. Beyond it rise the walls of
the brush building, enramada, woven of green wattled boughs,
which does duty for a church on Sundays and on the rare occa-
sions of a visit from the priest who makes a yearly pilgrimage to
these outlying portions of his diocese. On Sundays, the Gen-
eral of the tribe acts as lay reader and recites the services.
Then and on Saturday nights the bells are rung. An Indian
boy has the office of bell-ringer, and crossing the ropes attached
to the clappers he skilfully makes a solemn chime."

The graveyard at Santa Isabel is neglected and forlorn,
and yet wears many evidences of the loving thoughtf ulness
of the loved ones who remain behind.

CHAPEL OF MESA GRANDE

Eleven miles or so from Santa Isabel, up a steep road, is
the Indian village of Mesa Grande. The rancheria (as
the old Spaniards would call it) occupies a narrow valley
and sweep of barren hillside. On a level space at the foot
of the mountain the little church is built. Santo Domingo
is the patron saint.

A recent visitor thus describes it :

"The church was built like that of Santa Isabel, of green
boughs, and the chancel was decorated with muslin draperies
and ornaments of paper and ribbon, in whose preparation a faith-

282 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

ful Indian woman had spent the greater part of five days. The
altar was furnished with drawn-work cloths, and in a niche above
it was a plaster image of Santo Domingo, one hand holding a
book, the other outstretched in benediction. Upon the out-
stretched hand a rosary had been hung with appropriate effect.
Some mystic letters appeared in the muslin that draped the ceil-
ing, which, being interpreted, proved to be the initials of the
solitary member of the altar guild, and of such of her family as
she was pleased to commemorate."

CHAPEL, OF SAN BERNARDINO

It must not be forgotten that one of the early methods
of reaching California was inland. Travellers came from
Mexico, by way of Sonora, then crossed the Colorado River
and reached San Gabriel and Monterey in the north, over
practically the same route as that followed to-day by the
Southern Pacific Railway, viz., crossing the river at Yuma,
over the Colorado desert, by way of the San Gorgonio
Pass, and through the San Bernardino and San Gabriel
valleys. It was in 1774 that Captain Juan Bautista de
Anza of the presidio of Tubac in Arizona, was detailed by
the Viceroy of New Spain to open this road. He made
quite an expedition of it, — 240 men, women, and Indian
scouts, and 1050 animals. They named the San Gorgonio
Pass the Puerto de San Carlos, and the San Bernardino
Valley the Valle de San Jose. Cucamonga they called the
Arroyo de los Osos (Bear Ravine or Gulch).

As this road became frequented San Gabriel was the
first stopping place where supplies could be obtained after
crossing the desert. This was soon found to be too far
away, and for years it was desired that a station nearer
to the desert be established, but not until 1810 was the
decisive step taken. Then Padre Dumetz of San Gabriel,
with a band of soldiers and Indian neophytes, set out, early
in May, to find a location and establish such a station.
They found a populous Indian rancheria, in a region well

THE MISSION CHAPELS 283

Wcatered and luxuriant, and which bore a name significant
of its desirability. The valley was Guachama, " the place
of abundance of food and water," and the Indians had the
same name. A station was established near the place now
known as Bunker Hill, between Urbita Springs and Col-
ton, and a " Capilla " built, dedicated to San Bernardino,
because it was on May 20, San Bernardino's feast-day,
that Padre Dumetz entered the valley. The trustworthi-
ness of the Indians will be understood when it is recalled
that this chapel, station, and the large quantity of supplies
were left in their charge, under the command of one of
their number named Hipolito. Soon the station became
known, after this Indian, as Politana.

For two years prosperity smiled upon Politana. The
padres from San Gabriel visited it often, grain was planted
and good harvests reaped. Then came the sad year of the
earthquakes, " el ailo de los temblores." The hot springs
increased their temperature to such a degree that the In-
dians became alarmed; and the bursting out of a new hot
mud spring near Politana did not serve to quiet them. The
padres bade them cover up the spring with earth, but of
no avail. The " temblores " increased in power, the In-
dians' fears increased, their superstitions became more and
more aroused, and the soil of their minds was quickly pre-
pared for the seed that was soon to be sown there. It can
readily be understood that the old Shamans (medicine men,
or native priests), of the Indians, had not viewed the de-
struction of their power by the padres with equanimity.
No man likes to feel his vocation taken from him by an-
other, especially when that vocation is productive of wealth,
influence, and power. To be discredited and reduced to
poverty is enough to arouse in a civilized man a desire for
revenge. And thus it worked with the Indians. Now,
therefore, was their opportunity. Secretly they began to
work upon the newly aroused superstitious fears of their
fellows. These " temblores " were manifestations of the

284 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

dreadful anger of their gods, " Those Above " and " Those
Below," because they had forsaken " the ways of the old,"
and had been led away into new and false paths by the
" long gowns." These were only the beginnings. " Those
Above and Below " had spoken to their earthly represen-
tatives ; more evils were to come, — unless ! Fear was now
left to work and ferment awhile. Then the " unless " was
explained, — "unless the long gowns and all renegade
Indians were slain, stamped out, exterminated root and
branch, and the accursed buildings erected for the more
accursed worship were totally and completely destroyed.
A few more " temblores " helped along the desire for
vengeance, and at length, led by their medicine men,
the now altogether aroused savages destroyed the build-
ings and slew most of the christianized Indians and later'
converts.

The destruction of Politana in 1810 was a source of
great distress to the padres at San Gabriel, and they longed
to rebuild. But the success of the attack of the uncon-
verted Indians had reawakened the never long dormant
predatory instincts of the desert Indians, and, for several
years, these made frequent incursions into the valley, kill-
ing not only the whites, but such Indians as seemed to
prefer the new faith to that of the old. But in 1819 the
Guachamas sent a delegation to San Gabriel, requesting
the padres to come again, rebuild the Mission chapel, and
re-establish the supply station, and giving assurances of
protection and good behavior. The padres gladly acceded
to the requests made, and in 1820 solemn chants and
earnest exhortations again resounded in the ears of the
Guachamas in a new and larger building of adobe, erected
some eight miles from Politana. The Indians soon settled
around it, a resident priest was appointed from San
Gabriel, a vineyard and olive orchard were planted,
grain was extensively sown, herds of sheep and oxen cov-
ered the neighboring plains and foothills, a zanja was

THE MISSION CHAPELS 285

built for conveying water for irrigation and domestic pur-
poses, and an active and busy community was soon in full
operation.

For eleven years this peaceful life continued; and then,
in 1831, the desert Indians made another raid, destroying
the buildings and running off most of the stock. Fortu-
nately no human lives were lost. And, as was their wont,
they resolutely set to work to rebuild, this time making
the chapel and residence buildings stronger than ever. A
foundation of cobblestones was put in, and walls of adobe
three feet thick crowned it to a height of 20 feet. The
structure was some 250 feet in length, and 125 feet in
width, and a corral added which extended nearly 100 feet
be3rond the main building.

Scarcely had these new buildings become accustomed to
their occupants when the long-dreaded order of seculari-
zation was promulgated. Juan Bandini was appointed
to see that San Gabriel and all its dependencies were dis-
posed of, according to the decree. This was in 1838—40.
But as early as October, 1834 (one year after the order
was issued), a band of Paiutis from over the Sierras, who
had been forced bv famine to seek a new home for them-
selves, attacked the chapel of San Bernardino. The neo-
phytes, led by a Christian Indian chief, named Perfecto,
defended themselves and their property with bravery and
courage. The invaders were repulsed again and again ;
many lives were lost on both sides ; and when, at last,
further resistance seemed hopeless, a sortie was made to
cause a diversion, while Perfecto gathered together all the
church vessels, vestments, and other valuable church prop-
erty in three carretas, and started to San Gabriel. When
the Paiutis discovered the ruse they were infuriated, and
started in pursuit, but at Cucamonga were defeated, and,
consoling themselves with such stock as they had collected,
they beat a retreat into the mountains.

In December of the same year another attack was made ;

286 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

but this time it was by two hundred native Indians, led by
two war-chiefs who had once been neophytes at San Gabriel,
but who felt they had real or fancied insults to avenge.
As they marched to San Gabriel they stopped to anticipate
their vengeance by destroying San Bernardino Chapel.
The priest in charge, Padre Tomas Ellutario Estenaga,
defended as well as he was able with his small band of neo-
phytes, but the knowledge the attacking party had of the
interior of the buildings and all their modes of defence
materially nullified their efforts, and before long resistance
was seen to be vain. The buildings were completely sacked
and then set on fire. Padre Estenaga was captured and
carried away to the mountains, where he undoubtedly
would have been slain had it not been for the fear his cap-
tors entertained of him. They regarded him as a powerful
medicine man, capable of working " strong medicine " to
their undoing if they injured him, so he was finally released
uninjured.

But never again was San Bernardino Chapel to resound
to the sacred hymns and words of priests and dusky neo-
phytes. Its work was accomplished. Now vandalism
stepped in to finish with ruthless havoc the destruction the
hatred of hostile Indians had begun. Many of the timbers
used in the roof had been hewn in the mountains. These
caught the eye of certain citizens of Los Angeles. Car-
retas were sent, and eleven loads were removed to be used
in the construction of buildings in the newer city. Later
on restitution was demanded of these respectable (?) van-
dals, and they paid three dollars per vara for the timber
they had thus stolen. The adobes they took, however, were
never accounted for. The bill for them is still outstand-
ing; waiting for its final settlement when the Judge of all
men shall ask of each an accounting for all the deeds done
in the flesh.

There are a few ruined walls still standing of Bernar-
dino at this time, but adobe rapidly disappears, and it will

THE MISSION CHAPELS 287

not be long before no smallest remnant will remain of this
once prosperous and useful asistencia of the Mission of
San Gabriel.

CHAPEL OF SANTA MARGARITA (SAN LUIS OBISPo)

One of the ranchos of San Luis Obispo was that of
Santa Margarita on the north side of the Sierra Santa
Lucia. As far as I know there is no record of the date
when the chapel was built, yet it is a most interesting and
important structure, even in its present utterly ruined and
dilapidated condition. It is almost frontless, altogether
roofless, and its interior has been wilfully destroyed within
the last few years. And the work of destruction is now
(May, 1904) going on, in order that it may be re-roofed
and converted into a hay barn.

Situated on a knoll not far from the Santa Margarita
river, a tiny stream which flows down from the Sierra
Santa Lucia, it has the charm of close proximity to flowing
water — a rarity in some parts of California. It is built
northeast and southwest, with its front to the southwest.
In order to get out the stones of which the interior division
walls were made, and which have been deliberately pulled
down, the front was recently almost entirely destroyed.
So no picture can be presented of its fachada. It had an
exquisite and rare outlook. Immediately before the door-
way the grassy fields led the eye to the foothills and then
the higher slopes of the Santa Lucia, where dense forests
seem to exist. All around are live oaks, white and black
oaks, sycamores and pines in abundance, and the flow of
water could be utilized for irrigation and display in a
fountain.

It originally consisted of a chapel about 40 feet long
and 30 feet wide, and eight rooms. The chapel was at the
southwest end. The whole building is 120 feet long and
20 feet wide. The walls are about three feet thick, and

288 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

built of large pieces of rough sandstone and red bricks,
all cemented strongly together with a white cement that is
still hard and tenacious. It is possible there was no fachada
to the chapel at the southwest end, for a well-built elliptical
arched doorway still remains on the southeast side, which,
most probably, was the main entrance. If this be so, then
doubtless a window existed on the end, as the only other
place pierced for a window is to the left of this doorway.
Here the window-frame work still remains. It is of singu-
lar construction. Outside it appears to be square. Inside
it is seen that this square part is a very thin portion of the
wall, a kind of outer shell, the inside of which is beautifully
arched and well built.

All the windows have this peculiar characteristic.

About midway in the remaining part of the building, on
each side, is an elliptical arched doorway, and at the ex-
treme southeastern corner is another, thus giving three
doorway entrances to the residence portion of the structure.
From the ruins of the partition walls it is easy to assume
that there were eight rooms of about equal size, counting
the halls as rooms. If this assumption be correct, then the
windows would so tally as to give one window to a room,
leaving out those that had a doorway entrance.

The question now arises : was this the only Mission build-
ing at Santa Margarita?

No ! for near by are three old adobe houses, all recently
renovated out of all resemblance to their original condition,
and all roofed with red Mission tiles. These were built in
the early days. The memoi'y of the oldest Mexican in-
habitants of the present-day Santa Margarita remembers
them in childhood's happy years, so it is not unreasonable
to assume that they were a part of the Mission buildings.

Here, then, is explanation enough for the assumption
of a large Indian population on this ranch, which led the
neighboring padres to establish a chapel for their chris-
tianization and civilization. Undoubtedly in its aboriginal

Plate XLII

i— *
-1

THE MISSION CHAPELS 289

days there was a large Indian population, for there were
all the essentials in abundance. Game of every kind —
deer, antelope, rabbits, squirrels, bear, ducks, geese, doves,
and quail — yet abound ; roots of every edible kind and
more acorns than in any other equal area in the State. A
never failing flow of mountain water and innumerable
springs, as well as a climate at once warm and yet bracing,
for here on the northern slopes of the Santa Lucia, frost
is not uncommon.

What more natural, then, than that the padres should
seek a closer contact with these large masses of unsaved
souls, and diligently work to bring them into the bosom of
the Church !

CHAPEL OF SANTA ISABEL (SAN MIGUEL)

I have elsewhere referred to the water supply of Santa
Isabel as being used for irrigation connected with San
Miguel Mission. There is every evidence that a large ran-
cheria existed at Santa Isabel, and that for many years it
was one of the valued rancheros of the Mission. Below the
Hot Springs the remains of a large dam still exist, which we
now know was built by the padres for irrigation purposes.
A large tract of land below was watered by it, and we have
a number of reports of the annual yield of grain, showing
great fertility and productivity. Near the present ranch
house at Santa Isabel are large adobe ruins, evidently used
as a house for the majordomo and for the padre on his reg-
ular visitations to the rancherfa. One of the larger rooms
was doubtless a chapel where mass was said for the neo-
phytes who cultivated the soil in this region.

CHAPEL OF SAN ANTONIO DE PALA

The chapel at Pala is perhaps the best known of all the
asistencias on account of its picturesque campanile. It
was built by the indefatigable Padre Peyri, in 1816, and

290 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

is about twenty miles from San Luis Rey, to which it be-
longed. Within a year or two, by means of a resident
padre, over a thousand converts were gathered, reciting
their prayers and tilling the soil. A few buildings, beside
the chapel, were erected, and the community, far removed
from all political strife, must have been happy and con-
tented in its mountain-valley home. The chapel is a long,
narrow adobe structure, 144 by 27 feet, roofed with red
tiles. The walls within were decorated in the primitive and
singular fashion found at others of the Missions, and upon
the altar were several statues which the Indians valued
highly.

Pala is made peculiarly interesting as the present home
of the evicted Palatingwa (Hot Springs) Indians of
Warner's Ranch. Here these wretchedly treated " wards
of the nation " are now struggling with the problem of
life, with the fact ever before them, when they think, (as
they often do, for several of them called my attention to
the fact) that the former Indian population of Pala has
totally disappeared. At the time of the secularization of
San Luis Rey, Pala suffered with the rest ; and when the
Americans finally took possession it was abandoned to the
tender mercies of the straying, seeking, searching, devour-
ing homesteader. In due time it was " homesteaded." The
chapel and graveyard were ultimately deeded back ; and
when the Landmarks Club took hold it was agreed that the
ruins "revert to their proper ownership." The Club then
took a lease on the property for the purpose of carrying
out its intentions, which are elsewhere referred to.

Though all the original Indians were ousted long ago
from their lands at Pala, those who lived anywhere within
a dozen or a score miles still took great interest in the old
buildings, the decorations of the church, and the statues
of the saints. Whenever a priest came and held services a
goodly congregation assembled, for a number of Mexicans,
as well as Indians, live in the neighborhood.

THE MISSION CHAPELS 291

That they loved the clear old asistencia was manifested
by Americans, Mexicans, and Indians alike, for when the
Landmarks Club visited it in December, 1901, and asked
for assistance to put it in order, help was immediately vol-
unteered to the extent of $217, if the work were paid for
at the rate of $1.75 per day.

With a desire to promote the good feeling aimed at in
recent dealings with the evicted Indians of Warner's
Ranch, now located at Pala, the bishop of the diocese sent
them a priest. He, however, was of an alien race, and un-
familiar with either the history of the chapel, its memories,
or the feelings of the Indians ; and to their intense indig-
nation, they found that without consulting them, or his
own superiors, he had destroyed all the interior decora-
tions by covering them with a coating of whitewash.

292 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER XXVIII

THE PRESENT CONDITION OF THE MISSION INDIANS

THE disastrous effect of the order of secularization
upon the Indians, as well as the Missions them-
selves, has been referred to in a special chapter.
Here I wish to give, in brief, a clearer idea of the present
condition of the Indians than was there possible. In the
years 1833-1837 secularization actually was accomplished.
The knowledge that it was coming had already done much
injury. The Pious Fund, which then amounted to upwards
of a half-million dollars, was confiscated — they called it
" borrowed." This practically left the Indians to their
own resources. A certain amount of land and stock were
to be given to each head of a family, and tools were to be
provided. Owing to the long distance between California
and the City of Mexico, there was much confusion as to
how the changes should be brought about. There have been
many charges made, alleging that the fathers wilfully
allowed the Mission property to go to ruin, when they
were deprived of its control. This ruin would better be
attributed to the general demoralization of the times than
to any definite policy. For it must be remembered that the
political conditions of Mexico at that time were most un-
settled. None knew what a day or an hour might bring
forth. All was confusion, uncertainty, irresponsibility.
And in the melee Mission property and Mission Indians
suffered.

What was to become of the Indians ? Imagine the father
of a family — that had no mother — suddenly snatched
away, and all the property, garden, granary, mill, store-

THE PRESENT CONDITION 293

house, orchards, cattle, placed in other hands. What would
the children do?

So now the Indians, like bereft children, knew not what
to do, and, naturally, they did what our own children would
do. Led by want and hunger, some sought and found work
and food, and others, alas, became thieves. The Mission
establishment was the organized institution that had cared
for them, and had provided the work that supported them.
No longer able to go and live " wildly " as of old, they were
driven to evil methods by necessity unless the new govern-
ment directed their energies into right channels. Few at-
tempted to do this ; hence the results that were foreseen by
the padres followed.

July 7, 1846, saw the Mexican flag in California hauled
down, and the Stars and Stripes raised in its place ; but
as far as the Indian was concerned, the change was for
the worse instead of the better. Indeed, it may truthfully
be said that the policies of the three governments, Spanish,
Mexican, and American, have shown three distinct phases,
and that the last is by far the worst.

Our treatment of these Indians reads like a hideous
nightmare. Absolutely no forceful and effective protest
seems to have been made against the indescribable wrongs
perpetrated. The gold discoveries of 1849 brought into
the country a class of adventurers, gamblers, liquor sellers,
and camp followers of the vilest description. The Indians
became helpless victims in the hands of these infamous
wretches, and even the authorities aided to make these In-
dians " good."

Bartlett, who visited the country in 1850 to 1853, tells
of meeting with an old Indian at San Luis Rey who spoke
glowingly of the good times they had when the padres were
there, but " now, he said, they were scattered about, he
knew not where, without a home or protectors, and were in
a miserable, starving condition." Of the San Francisco
Indians he says:

294 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

" They are a miserable, squalid-looking set, squatting or lying
about the corners of the streets, without occupation. They
have now no means of obtaining a living, as their lands are all
taken from them ; and the Missions for which they labored, and
which provided after a sort for many thousands of them, are
abolished. No care seems to be taken of them by the Ameri-
cans ; on the contrary, the effort seems to be to exterminate
them as soon as possible."

According to the most conservative estimates there were
over thirty thousand Indians under the control of the Mis-
sions at the time of secularization in 1833. To-day, how
many are there? I have spent long days in the different
Mission localities, arduously searching for Indians, but
oftentimes only to fail of my purpose. In and about San
Francisco, there is not one to be found. At San Carlos
Borromeo, in both Monterey and the Carmelo Valley, except
for a few half-breeds, no one of Indian blood can be dis-
covered. It is the same at San Miguel, San Luis Obispo,
and Santa Barbara. At Pala, that romantic chapel, where
once the visiting priest from San Luis Rey found a con-
gregation of several hundreds awaiting his ministrations,
the land was recently purchased from white men, by the
United States Indian Commission, as a new home for the
evicted Palatingwa Indians of Warner's Ranch. These
latter Indians, in recent interviews with me, have perti-
nently asked : " Where did the white men get this land, so
they could sell it to the Government for us? Indians lived
here many centuries before a white man had ever seen the
' land of the sundown sea.' When the ' long gowns ' first
came here, there were many Indians at Pala. Now they
are all gone. Where? And how do we know that before
long we shall not be driven out, and be gone, as they were
driven out and are gone? "

At San Luis Rey and San Diego, there are a few scat-
tered families, but very few, and most of these have fled
far back into the desert, or to the high mountains, as far

THE PRESENT CONDITION 295

as possible out of reach of the civilization that demoralizes
and exterminates them.

A few scattered remnants are all that remain.

Let us seek for the real reason why.

The system of the padres was patriarchal, paternal.
Certain it is that the Indians were largely treated as if
they were children. No one questions or denies this state-
ment. Few question that the Indians were happy under
this system, and all will concede that they made wonderful
progress in the so-called arts of civilization. From crude
savagery they were lifted by the training of the fathers
into usefulness and productiveness. They retained their
health, vigor, and virility. They were, by necessity per-
haps, but still undeniably, chaste, virtuous, temperate,
honest, and reasonably truthful. They were good fathers
and mothers, obedient sons and daughters, amenable to
authority, and respectful to the counsels of old age.

All this and more may unreservedly be said for the
Indians while they were under the control of the fathers.
That there were occasionally individual cases of harsh
treatment is possible. The most loving and indulgent
parents are now and again ill-tempered, fretful, or ner-
vous. The fathers were men subject to all the limitations
of other men. Granting these limitations and making due
allowance for human imperfection, the rule of the fathers
must still be admired for its wisdom and commended for its
immediate results.

Now comes the order of secularization, and a little later
the domination of the Americans. Those opposed to the
control of the fathers are to see the Indians free. They
are to be " removed from under the irksome restraint of
cold-blooded priests who have held them in bondage not far
removed from slavery " ! ! They are to have unrestrained
liberty, the broadest and fullest intercourse with the great
American people, the white, Caucasian American, not the
dark-skinned Mexican ! ! !

296 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

The authority of the priesthood being abolished, this
beneficent intercourse begins ! ! Now see the rapid elevation
in morals, honor, chastity, integrity, and all the virtues!!
Gaze with amazement and delight upon the glorious bless-
ings conferred upon the weak by the strong race ! ! Thank
God, with uplifted eyes and hand, for all the mental and
spiritual graces that begin to pour into the minds and souls
of those benighted heathen, when they are removed from
the benumbing influences of superstitious and ignorant
Catholicism. Yes, indeed, let us sing pagans of joyous
praises for the good that the aborigines now hold in free
and absolute mastery.

Ah! hypocrites and vile! How I could wish for the
power of Shakspere to show you in your true light. Rich-
ard of Gloster was not so vile a murderer, so ruthless a
destroyer, so black-hearted a villain, so contemptible a
plotter, so mean a layer of snares as the white race has
been, whereby to trap, entangle, and exterminate the dusky
race whose lands they coveted and determined to possess.

Had they been left in the hands of the Mission fathers,
the Indians would slowly but surely have progressed to
racial manhood. Given over to our own tender mercies,
they have been hurried down an incline smeared by white
men with every known form of slippery evil, in order that
their destruction might be the more rapid and complete.
Until we are able, nationally, to cleanse our own skirts
from the blood of these trustful, weak, helpless aborigines,
let us not insult the memory of the Mission fathers by
asking, parrot-like : " For what end ? "

The only real ground for criticism of the padres, to my
mind, lies here. Their care of the Indians was too great,
too fatherly. They treated their wards too much like chil-
dren, instead of training them for the duties of citizenship.
Hence they succumbed easily to the vices of civilization
when the restraining influences were removed. I used to
think this criticism a just one. It appeared to me that the

THE PRESENT CONDITION 297

kindness was a mistaken one ; that greater freedom would
have given greater responsibility, — especially had more
time and attention been given to teaching them this re-
sponsibility. Yet, the more I think of it, the more puerile
the criticism becomes. Peoples are not civilized in a day.
Even our own sons and daughters, with all our training,
now and again succumb to evil and go down as far as did
these Indians, though we are constant and persistent in
our efforts to save them.

Another difficulty in the way of rapid progress was the
great distance from supplies and the lack of men. Com-
munication with California was by water or land, and
from far distant points. It was not an easy journey from
Spain, via Mexico, to California. The overland trip from
Mexico, whether by way of San Bias and then up the
peninsula on horseback, or by way of Sonora and the
deserts of Arizona and California was not a matter to be
undertaken lightly. I should much like to start out a
caravan of the critics of the padres, over either route, and
in a modern air-ship (improved pattern) watch their per-
formances. I am inclined to believe they would make a far
worse mess of it than the padres did of educating and chris-
tianizing the Indians. It required men — men of stalwart
conviction, men of courage, daring, and ability to under-
take the journey, let alone the work when they arrived.
And when the fact is recalled that, in the earlier days, some
of these priests were left alone for months at a time at their
respective stations, can we wonder that more than one of
them went insane with the pressure of it. Solitariness is
often a far harder burden to bear than actual physical
pain or suffering ; yet these devoted men faced even the
dreaded solitariness rather than neglect the call, the voice
they had heard.

With such training, therefore, they resented the inter-
ference of the politicians with their work. They saw the
awful results that were sure to come. And in their resist-

298 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

ance to the unjust encroachments of unprincipled men we
have the secret of most of the criticism.

I think it can plainly be stated that the whole trouble
arose from man's accursed greed for gold. It is well
known that according to the rule of St. Francis every
member of the order was pledged to certain things, one
of which was perpetual poverty, another obedience. We
have seen how, in the early days, those priests who came
to California sacrificed all that men ordinarily hold dear.
Little by little they built up their Missions in what had been
a strange land, and they converted the savages into useful
workers. Personally not one of them could own a dime's
worth of property (unless, of course, he were a perjured
scoundrel, and it is scarcely worth while to consider the
prejudices of those who could regard any of the early
padres as such), and if they did now and again enjoy the
pleasures of the table, who shall cast a first stone at them
for that ? Their leaders were wise enough to see that when
the influx of population came, as it was almost inevitable
it should, the Indians would not be considered as having
a first claim, unless they, as their guardians, protected
them in their natural rights, — the rights of priority and
nativity on the soil. Slowly they were christianizing and
civilizing them. Of very necessity it was a slow process.
The English, the French, the Germans, — aye, and the
boasting Americans, — have been civilized none too rap-
idly. It does not need a very deep scratch to reveal the
innate savagery of the best of us, and why should we expect
these people to be civilized with such great speed.

The padres knew that secularization must come — some-
time. They hoped it would not come too soon. In time
they could have made their wards more independent, better
developed mentally, more able to cope with " the world."
When Mexico became the battle-field of adventurers, the
coyote and vulture politicians began to assert themselves,
and in the Missions they saw a good opportunity for the

THE PRESENT CONDITION 299

exercise of their peculiar functions. The padres withstood
them, bravely, nobly, constantly, until the power brought
to bear was too great to be longer resisted. What were*
they fighting for? Did it mean personal wealth to them?
All they could possibly get out of it was their daily bread,
as they were required by the law of their order to report
constantly to their superiors as to the growth of flocks,
herds, etc., and what became of them. The early reports
of the padres were models of completeness ; nothing was
neglected ; everything was accounted for. Who, then, can
justly accuse them of selfishness in their stern resistance
to the decrees of the politicians. They could have done no
other without being recreant to the trust the helplessness
of the Indians had imposed upon them. It was as if au-
thorities of a hospital or an orphan asylum battled for the
preservation of the institution that was essential to the
care-taking of the helpless sick or young. Perhaps their
pride in their organization had something to do with it,
and I, for one, do not propose to find fault with them for
that. It was a good organization for the work to be per-
formed, and it did its work well ; and it is no credit either
to the republic of Mexico or, later, to the United States of
America that more strenuous efforts were not made to pre-
serve to the padres the right to continue their fatherly
oversight over the Indians for a while longer.

An eye-witness, writing of events in the early fifties,
thus recounts the Los Angeles method of christianizing
the Mission Indians:

"These thousands of Indians had been held in the most rigid
discipline by the Mission Fathers, and after their emancipation
by the Supreme Government of Mexico, had been reasonably
well governed by the local authorities, who found in them indis-
pensable auxiliaries as farmers and harvesters, hewers of wood
and drawers of water, and beside the best horse-breakers and
herders in the world, necessary to the management of the great
herds of the country. These Indians were Christians, docile even

300 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

to servility, and excellent laborers. Then came the Americans,
followed soon after by the discovery of, and the wild rush for,
gold, and the relaxation for the time being of a healthy adminis-
tration of the laws. The ruin of this once happy and useful
people commenced. The cultivators of vineyards began to pay
their Indian peons with aguardiente, a real ' firewater.' The
consequence was that on receiving their wages on Saturday
evening, the laborers habitually met in great gatherings and
passed the night in gambling, drunkenness, and debauchery.
On Sunday the streets were crowded from morning until night
with Indians, — males and females of all ages, from the girl of
ten or twelve to the old man and woman of seventy or eighty.

"By four o'clock on Sunday afternoon, Los Angeles Street,
from Commercial to Nigger Alley, Aliso Street from Los Angeles
to Alameda, and Nigger Alley, were crowded with a mass of
drunken Indians, yelling and fighting : men and women, boys
and girls using tooth and nail, and frequently knives, but always
in a manner to strike the spectator with horror.

" At sundown, the pompous marshal, with his Indian special
deputies, who had been confined in jail all day to keep them
sober, would drive and drag the combatants to a great corral in
the rear of the Downey Block, where they slept away their
intoxication. The following morning they would be exposed for
sale, as slaves for the week. Los Angeles had its slave-mart as
well as New Orleans and Constantinople, — only the slaves at
Los Angeles were sold fifty-two times a year, as long as they
lived, a period which did not generally exceed one, two, or three
years under the new dispensation. They were sold for a week,
and bought up by vineyard men and others at prices ranging
from one to three dollars, one-third of which was to be paid to
the peon at the end of the week, which debt, due for well-
performed labor, was invariably paid in aguardiente, and the
Indian made happy, until the following Monday morning, he
having passed through another Saturday night and Sunday's
saturnalia of debauchery and bestiality. Those thousands of
honest, useful people were absolutely destroyed in this way."

In reference to these statements of the sale of the Indians
as slaves, it should be noted that the act was done under
the cover of the law. The Indian was " fined " in a certain

THE PRESENT CONDITION 301

sum for his drunkenness, and was then turned over to the
tender mercies of the employer who paid the fine. Thus
" justice " was perverted to the vile ends of the conscience-
less scoundrels who posed as " officers of the law."

To-day, the total Indian population of Southern Cali-
fornia is reported by the agent as two thousand eight hun-
dred fifty-five. It is not increasing, and it is good for the
race that it is not. Until the incumbency by W. A. Jones of
the Indian Commissionership in Washington, there seems to
have been little or no attempt at effective protection of the
Indians against the land and other thefts of the whites.
The facts are succinctly and powerfully stated by Helen
Hunt Jackson in her report to the government, and in
her " Glimpses of California and the Missions." The
indictment of churches, citizens, and the general govern-
ment, for their crime of supineness in allowing our ac-
knowledged wards to be seduced, cheated, and corrupted,
should be read by every honest American ; even though
it make his blood seethe with indignation and his nerves
quiver with shame.

Anno Domini 1903, the Indians of Warner's Ranch, by
a decree of the United States Supreme Court, affirming the
decisions of the highest State courts, were evicted from the
homes which they had occupied from time immemorial, and
which had been pledged to them and their successors by
General Kearney and others in authority, on behalf of the
United States government.

At this time, the Indian Department, under W. A. Jones,
then the commissioner, made the first honest and practical
attempt to come to the rescue of its wards. A hundred
thousand dollars was appropriated to find them a new
home, but some of this has been wasted by the incompetency
of self-constituted advisers and minor official stupidity and
incapacity. Let it suffice to say that to-day these Indians
are upon land where they cannot make a living, unless
large sums of money shall be expended in an irrigation-

302 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

scheme to convey water to their lands ; they are " con-
verted " from a self-sustaining, brave, and independent
people to so many paupers looking to the government for
rations ; they regard every white man as a liar ; one man
who has especially posed as their friend they view with a
hatred approaching a murderous sentiment, and, were they
as warlike and strong numerically as the Sioux, the War
Department would be confronted with another Indian war.

In other villages and tribes the same demoralization is
apparent.

A short time ago I had a long, confidential interview
with Marcos, once a chief of the Indian village at Palm
Springs. Among other things, we discussed the morality
of the women of his people. With a dejection in which
there seemed to be no hope, the poor fellow stated that the
burden of life was so hard for his people that he had long
ceased to regard with anger the immorality of the women,
young or old, married or single. " So long as they can
get something to eat thereby, why should we care? " he
sadly asked. " It is not easy to be good when the hunger
is in the stomach and when one offers you a dollar to do
that which is easy, though evil ! "

This is one of the saddest proofs of the demoralization
of this people. When the leaders have ceased to care ; when
the struggle has become so hard as to seem to be hopeless,
then, indeed, are they in bad case.

To show the actual state of land matters among the
Indians of Southern California, I present the subjoined
table from the report of the agent for the " Mission-Tule "
Consolidated Agency, which is dated September 25, 1903.

This is the official report of an agent whom not even his
best friends acknowledge as being over fond of his Indian
charges, or likely to be sentimental in his dealings with
them. What does this report state? Of twenty-eight
<k reservations " — and some of these include several In-
dian villages — it announces that the lands of eight are

Plate XLIII

a. FIGURE OF SAX JOSfi

b. SAX AXTOXIO DE PADUA,
SAXTA BARB USA

e. SAX ANTONIO DE PADUA,
SAX CARLOS

d. SAX JUAN CAPISTRAXO

THE PRESENT CONDITION 303

yet " not patented." In other words, that the Indians are
living upon them " on sufferance." Therefore, if any cit-
izen of the United States, possessed of sufficient political
power, so desired, the lands could be restored to the public
domain. Then, not even the United States Supreme Court
could hold them for the future use and benefit of the
Indians.

On five of these reservations the land is " desert," and
in two cases, " subject to intense heat " (it might be said,
to 150 degrees, and even higher in the middle of summer) ;
in one case there is " little water for irrigation."

In four cases it is " poor land," with " no water," and in
another instance there are " worthless, dry hills ; " in still
another the soil is " almost worthless for lack of water ! "

In one of the desert cases, where there are five villages,
the government has supplied " water in abundance for
irrigation and domestic use, from artesian wells." Yet the
land is not patented, and the Indians are helpless, if evicted
by resolute men.

At Cahuilla, with a population of one hundred fifty-five,
the report says, " mountain valley ; stock land and little
water. Not patented."

At Santa Isabel, including Volcan, with a population of
two hundred eighty-four, the reservation of twenty-nine
thousand eight hundred forty-four acres is patented,
but the report says it is " mountainous ; stock land ; no
water."

At San Jacinto, with a population of one hundred forty-
three, the two thousand nine hundred sixty acres are
" mostly poor ; very little water, and not patented."

San Manuel, with thirty-eight persons, has a patent for
six hundred forty acres of " worthless, dry hills."

Temecula, with one hundred eighty-one persons, has had
allotted to its members three thousand three hundred sixty
acres, which area, however, is " almost worthless for lack
of water."

304 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

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Let us reflect upon these things ! The poor Indian is
exiled and expelled from the lands of his ancestors to worth-
less hills, sandy desert, grazing lands, mostly poor and
mountainous land, while our powerful government stands
by and professes its helplessness to prevent the evil. These
discouraging facts are enough to make the just and good
men who once guided the republic rise from their graves.
Is there a remnant of honor, justice, or integrity, left
among our politicians?

There is one thing this government should have done,
could have done, and might have done, and it is to its dis-
credit and disgrace that it did not do it ; that is, when the
treaty of Guadalupe-Hidalgo transferred the Indians from
the domination of Mexico to that of the United States, this
government " of, for, and by " the people, should have rec-
ognized the helplessness of its wards and not passed a law
of which they could not by any possibility know, requiring
them to file on their lands, but it should have appointed a
competent guardian of their moral and legal rights taking
it for granted that occupancy of the lands of their fore-
fathers would give them a legal title which would hold for-
ever against all comers.

In all the Spanish occupation of California it is doubt-
ful whether one case ever occurred where an Indian was
driven off his land.

In rendering a decision on the Warner's Ranch Case
the United States Supreme Court had an opportunity
offered it, once for all to settle the status of all American
Indians. Had it familiarized itself with the laws of Spain,
under which all Spanish grants were made, it would have
found that the Indian was always considered first and fore-
most in all grants of lands made. He must be protected
in his right ; it was inalienable. He was helpless, and
therefore the officers of the Crown were made responsible
for his protection. If subordinate officers failed, then the
more urgent the duty of superior officers. Therefore, even

Plate \!.IV

a. CHRIST DISPUTING IN THE TEMPLE

b. THE ARCHANGEL GABRIEL

c. THE ARCHANGEL MICHAEL

.1. THE ARCHANGEL RAPH \Kr.

THE PRESENT CONDITION 307

had a grant been made of Warner's Ranch in which the
grantor purposely left out the recognition of the rights of
the Indians, the higher Spanish courts would not have tol-
erated any such abuse of power. This was. an axiom of
Spanish rule, shown by a hundred, a thousand precedents.
Hence it should have been recognized by the United States
Supreme Court. It is good law, but better, it is good
sense and common justice, and this is especially good when
it protects the helpless and weak from the powerful and
strong.

In our dealings with the Indians in our school sys-
tem, we are making the mistake of being in too great a
hurry. A race of aborigines is not raised into civilization
in a night. It will be well if it is done in two or three
generations.

Contrast our method with that followed by the padres.
Is there any comparison ? Yes ! to our shame and disgrace.
The padres kept fathers and mothers and children to-
gether, at least to a reasonable degree. Where there were
families they lived — as a rule — in their own homes near
the Missions. Thus there was no division of families. On
the other hand, we have wilfully and deliberately, though
perhaps without malice aforethought (although the effect
has been exactly the same as if we had had malice), sepa-
rated children from their parents and sent them a hundred,
several hundred, often two or three thousand miles away
from home, there to receive an education often entirely
inappropriate and incompetent to meet their needs. And
even this sending has not always been honorably done. Vide
the U. S. Indian Commissioner's report for 1900. He
says:

"These pupils are gathered from the cabin, the wickiup, and
the tepee. Partly by cajolery and partly by threats ; partly by
bribery and partly by fraud ; partly by persuasion and partly by
force, they are induced to leave their homes and their kindred
to enter these schools and take upon themselves the outward

308 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

semblance of civilized life. They are chosen not on account of
any particular merit of their own, not by reason of mental fitness,
but solely because they have Indian blood in their veins. With-
out regard to their worldly condition ; without any previous
training ; without any preparation whatever, they are transported
to the schools — sometimes thousands of miles away — without
the slightest expense or trouble to themselves or their people.

The Indian youth finds himself at once, as if by magic, trans-
lated from a state of poverty to one of affluence. He is well fed
and clothed and lodged. Books and all the accessories of learn-
ing are given him and teachers provided to instruct him. He is
educated in the industrial arts on the one hand, and not only in
the rudiments but in the liberal arts on the other. Beyond the
three r's he is instructed in geography, grammar, and history ; he
is taught drawing, algebra and geometry, music and astronomy
and receives lessons in physiology, botany, and entomology.
Matrons wait on him while he is well, and physicians and nurses
attend him when he is sick. A steam laundry does his washing,
and the latest modern appliances do his cooking. A library
affords him relaxation for his leisure hours, athletic sports and
the gymnasium furnish him exercise and recreation, while music
entertains him in the evening. He has hot and cold baths, and
steam heat and electric light, and all the modern conveniences.
All the necessities of life are given him, and many of the luxuries.
All of this without money and without price, or the contribution
of a single effort of his own or of his people. His wants are all
supplied almost for the wish. The child of the wigwam becomes
a modern Aladdin, who has only to rub the government lamp to
gratify his desires.

Here he remains until his education is finished, when he is
returned to his home — which by contrast must seem squalid
indeed — to the parents whom his education must make it diffi-
cult to honor, and left to make his way against the ignorance and
bigotry of his tribe. Is it any wonder he fails ? Is it surprising
if he lapses into barbarism ? Not having earned his education,
it is not appreciated ; having made no sacrifice to obtain it, it is
not valued. It is looked upon as a right and not as a privilege ;
it is accepted as a favor to the government and not to the recipi-
ent, and the almost inevitable tendency is to encourage depen-
dency, foster pride, and create a spirit of arrogance and selfishness.

THE PRESENT CONDITION 309

The testimony on this point of those closely connected with
the Indian employees of the service would, it is believed, he
interesting."

So there the matter stands. Nothing of any great im-
portance was really done to help the Indians except the con-
ferences at Mohonk, N. Y., until, in 1902, the Scquoya
League was organized, composed of many men and women
of national prominence, with the avowed purpose " to make
better Indians." In its first pronunciamento it declared:

" The first struggle will be not to arouse sympathy but to
inform with slow patience and long wisdom the wide-spread
sympathy which already exists. We cannot take the Indians
out of the hands of the National Government ; we cannot take
the National Government into our own hands. Therefore we
must work with the National Government in any large plan for
the betterment of Indian conditions.

" The League means, in absolute good faith, not to fight, but to
assist the Indian Bureau. It means to give the money of many
and the time and brains and experience of more than a few to
honest assistance to the Bureau in doing the work for which it
has never had either enough money or enough disinterested and
expert assistance to do in the best way the thing it and every
American would like to see done."

310 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER XXIX

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES OF MISSION ARCHITECTURE

THE broader knowledge we gain of the Franciscan
Mission structures, the greater becomes our re-
spect for their architects and builders. Their
boldness, originality, and diversity at once please and in-
struct us. It is not my purpose, in this chapter, to analyze
all the varied forms of the Mission architecture, or to dis-
cuss technically the successes or the failures consequent
upon their use. Purely as a layman, addressing himself
to those sufficiently interested to allow one without techni-
cal knowledge to comment upon details which give marked
individuality to these generally similar structures, I shall
call attention to some general features, and then expatiate
upon the details. As a rule, the Missions were built in
the form of a hollow square: the church representing the
fachada, with the priests' quarters and the houses for the
Indians forming the wings. These quarters were gener-
ally colonnaded or cloistered, with a series of semicircular
arches, and roofed with red tiles. (See Plate 25 a.) In
the interior was the patio or court, which often contained
a fountain and a garden. Upon this patio opened all the
apartments: those of the fathers and of the majordomo,
and the guest-rooms, as well as the workshops, school-
rooms and storehouses.

The Indians' quarters were generally the most secluded
parts of the premises. The young girls were separated
rigidly from the boys and youths ; the first-named being
under the guardianship of staid and trustworthy Indian
women. The young charges were taught to weave, spin,

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MISSION ARCHITECTURE 311

sew, embroider, make bread, cook, and to engage generally
in domestic tasks, and were not allowed to leave the " con-
vent " until they married.

From Plate 31 b, showing the fachada of the Santa
Barbara Mission, a few details may be noted. Here the
engaged columns form a striking feature, there being six
of them, three on either side of the main entrance. The
capital here used is the Ionic volute. The entablature is
somewhat Grecian, the decoration being a variant of the
Greek fret. The pediment is simple, with heavy dentals
under the cornice. A niche containing a statue occupies
the centre.

The first story of the towers is a high, plain, solid wall
with a simply moulded cornice, composed of few, but heavy
and simple members, upon which rest the second and third
stories each receding about half the thickness of the walls
below. Each story is furnished with a cornice similar to
the one below, and the two upper stories are pierced with
semicircular arches for bells. The walls of the second
story are four feet three inches in thickness, and the lower
walls are sustained by massive buttresses at the sides.
Both towers are surmounted by semicircular domes of
masonry construction with cement finish, above which rests
the lantern surmounted by the cross. This lantern is a
marked feature of Mission construction. It is seen above
the domes at San Buenaventura, San Luis Rey, San Xavier
del Bac (Arizona), as well as on one or two of the old
churches at San Antonio, Texas.

Another Mission feature is the addition to the pediment.
This consists of a part of the main front wall raised above
the pediment in pedestal form, and tapering in small steps
to the centre, upon which rests a large iron cross. This
was undoubtedly a simple contrivance for effectively sup-
porting and raising the Emblem of Salvation, in order
thereby more impressively to attract the attention of the
Indian beholder.

312 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

This illustration also shows the style of connecting the
priests' quarters in the manner before described. There is
a colonnade with fourteen semicircular arches, set back
from the main fachada, and tiled, as are the roofs of all
the buildings.

The careful observer may note another distinctive
feature which is seldom absent from the Mission domes.
This is the series of steps at each " corner " of the half-
dome. Several eminent architects have told me that the
purpose of these steps is unknown, but to my simple lay
mind it is evident that they were placed there purposely
by the clerical architects to afford easy access to the sur-
mounting cross ; so that any accident to this sacred sym-
bol could be speedily remedied. It must be remembered
that the fathers were skilled in reading some phases of the
Indian mind. They knew that an accident to the Cross
might work a complete revolution in the minds of the
superstitious Indians whose conversion they sought. Hence
common, practical sense demanded speedy and easy access
to the cross in case such emergency arose.

Entirely different, yet clearly of the same school, is the
Mission San Gabriel. The stone church elsewhere pic-
tured was not completed until 1785. In this the striking
feature is the campanile, from which that of the Glen-
wood Hotel, Riverside, was undoubtedly modelled. This
construction consists of a solid wall, pierced at irregular
intervals with arches built to correspond to the size of the
bells which were to be hung within them. The bells being
of varying sizes, there could be no regularity in the
arrangement of the arches, yet the whole bell-tower is
beautiful in outline and harmonious in general effect. On
the left, the wall is stepped back irregularly up to the centre
bell aperture, each step capped with a simple projecting
moulded cornice, as at Santa Barbara. The upper aper-
ture is crowned with a plain masonry elliptical arch, upon
which rests a wrought iron finial in the form of a cross.

MISSION ARCHITECTURE 313

The walls of San Gabriel are supported by ten buttresses
with pyramidal copings. (See Plate 5 a.) Projecting
ledges divide the pyramids into three unequal portions. In
some of these buttresses are niches, embellished with pilas-
ters which support a complete entablature. At the base of
these niches is a projecting sill, undoubtedly a device for
the purpose of giving greater space or depth in which to
place statues. On the concave surfaces of these niches
and the entablatures it is possible that the architects de-
signed to have distemper paintings, as such decoration is
often found on both exterior and interior walls, although
sometimes it has been covered by vandal whitewashers. In
several of the Missions, the spandrels of the arches show
evidence of having been decorated with paintings, frag-
ments of which still remain.

Plate 37 a represents San Luis Rey, by many regarded
as the king of California Mission structures. In this
illustration will be seen one of the strongest features of
this style, and one that has had a wide influence upon our
modern architecture. This feature consists of the stepped
and curved sides of the pediment.

I know no commonly received architectural term to
designate this, yet it is found at San Luis Rey, San
Antonio de Padua, Santa Ines, and at other places. At
San Luis Rey, it is the dominant feature of the extension
wall to the right of the fachada of the main building.

On this San Luis pediment occurs a lantern which archi-
tects regard as misplaced. Yet the fathers' motive for
its presence is clear: that is, the uplifting of the Sign
whereby the Indians could alone find salvation.

In the fachada at San Luis there are three niches for
statues : one on either side of the doorway, and one in the
centre of the pediment. It will be noticed that the fachada
is divided into three unequal portions. The ends of the
two outer walls of the main building are faced with pil-
asters which support the cornice of the pediment. Below

314 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

the cornice and above the entablature is a circular window.
The entablature is supported by engaged columns, upon
which rests a heavily moulded cornice ; the whole forming a
pleasing architectural effect about the doorway, the semi-
circular arch of which is especially fine.

It will be noticed by reference to Plate 31 b, that on
the towers at Santa Barbara there is a chamfer at each
corner. At San Luis Rey this detail is different, in that
the chamfer is replaced by an entire flat surface. The
tower thus becomes an irregular octagon, with four
greater and four lesser sides. These smaller sides answer
the same decorative purpose as the chamfer at Santa
Barbara. The same idea is also worked out in the dome,
which is not a hemisphere, but which prolongs the exag-
gerated chamfers of the stories below.

There is little doubt that the original design provided
for a second tower to be erected at San Luis Rey, uniform
with the existing one.

Santa Lies shown in Plates 2 and 38 b, presents pleasing
features. Here the fachada is exceedingly simple ; the
bell-tower being a plain wall pierced as at San Gabriel.
The same pyramidal feature, used here as an ornament
for the four corners, and the curved pediment please
the eye, and satisfy the desire for strength and grace.
The rear view, 38 b, shows the massiveness of the walls
and the extra reinforcement of them by means of the
buttresses.

While simple and chaste, the two churches of San Car-
los Borromeo — one in the ancient town of Monterey,
and the other seven miles away in El Carmelo Valley —
have a peculiar interest and fascination, since they were
the home-churches of the saintly Serra himself. At the
Valley church (Plate 3 b), lovingly called Carmelo by the
neighboring people, Serra lived, worked, prayed, died, and
was buried. By Padre Casanova it was restored some
fifteen years ago, and the body of Serra was sought,

MISSION ARCHITECTURE 315

identified, and recovered. Here the egg-shaped dome, sur-
mounted by an ornament holding up the cross, is the princi-
pal architectural attraction, although the starred window
of the fachada, under the semicircular cornice, and the
ornamental doorway are also striking and pleasing
features.

At Monterey (Plate 25 b) the fachada and tower are of
entirely different character, although superficial observers
remark upon the similarity of these features to those of
the Valley church. The tiled pyramidal covering of the
tower is especially pleasing, as is seen in Plate 8 a. At the
four corners of the tower stand simple but effective finial
ornaments, and in the centre of the front is a similar orna-
ment, elevated upon a sloping base or pedestal.

This pyramidal tiled tower is a useful and structural
device. It is perfectly adapted to its two purposes, viz.,
the uplifting of the bells and the cross : the former that, as
the sound peals forth, it may reach further, and the latter
that it may be seen at a long distance and also that it may
surmount, crown, and dominate every other object of the
building.

Even after this cursory survey, one cannot fail to
observe the differences in fachadas, pediments, campaniles
(bell-towers), columns, buttresses, door and window arches,
etc., presented by Mission architecture. Some of these we
shall now consider in detail.

1. Fachadas. Opinion is divided as to which is the most
striking, pleasing, and architecturally correct of the Mis-
sion fachadas. Perhaps that of Santa Barbara (Plate
31 b) would receive the largest number of votes, were the
question to be decided by such a test. Those whose tastes
incline toward the more ornate Spanish styles, would choose
between the two San Carlos buildings at Monterey. It
will be easily conceded that in elaborateness of design the
Monterey fachada leads all others. But elaborateness is
not always the most pleasing quality, nor yet is it always

316 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

united with perfection. The simple dignity of the Car-
melo fachada, the doorway, the central star-window, with
the severely plain gable, broken only by the impressive
sweep of the semicircular arch, make a pleasing combina-
tion which is worthy of study.

That of San Luis Rey (Plate 37 a) is, perhaps, the most
distinctive of them all. It contains all those features which
are recognized as typically " Mission " : such as the curved
and stepped pediment, the lantern crowning the same, and
the two-storied, pierced bell-tower, with chamfered corners
and lantern crown.

The fachada of San Francisco de Asis (Dolores), which
is presented in Plate 7 a, differs widely from any of the
others. It has two stories, resting upon a solid, project-
ing double foundation, the front of which is cemented.
The lower story consists of four columns, two on either
side of the doorway, the arch of which is supported
by simple right-angled stone doorposts, crowned with a
half-round cornice. The base consists of a double plinth
and a narrow fillet or cushion, upon which the plain shaft
rests. Its cap is simple, being composed of two enlarged
sections of the shaft, divided by a fillet, and topped with a
plain abacus.

A double membered cornice now stretches across the
whole building and becomes the base for the upper portion
of the fachada; thus forming a kind of rude entablature.
Resting upon this cornice, yet retired somewhat behind
the lower columns, are six engaged columns ; the two outer
ones being but three or four feet high, the second pair
somewhat higher, and the inner pair from six to eight
feet in height. In the central space between the two highest
columns, the wall is pierced by a rectangular void ; room
being thus afforded for a small bell. In the two next outer
spaces, similar piercings occur, the tops of which are
arched, and in these hang two larger bells. Each bell has
a wooden carriage to which it is fastened with rawhide

Plate XLV1

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1905

MISSION ARCHITECTURE 317

thongs, the latter giving an excellent example of the
toughness and durability of this material.

The use of rawhide instead of nails for the fastening
together of building timbers, as well as for swinging bells,
was often resorted to by the Mission builders. At San
Fernando, San Antonio, San Miguel, San Jose and San
Francisco, beams and rafters are thus fastened.

The remaining vestiges of the San Diego fachada (Plate
3 a), are similar in style to the central part of that of San
Luis Rey (Plate 37 a), although it is less elaborate than
its near northern and later-built neighbor.

San Gabriel is peculiar in construction, as it has no
fachada; the side of the church, with its buttresses and
stairway into the choir gallery forming the main front.
Attached to this, at the left, stands the campanile (Plate
5 a), without which the entire structure would be dull and
ineffective. Of a similar character, and yet quite different
in detail is the fachada of Santa Ines (see Plate 2). Here
the end of the church, with the addition of the campanile,
serves as the fachada; since the wall at the right contain-
ing the bells is a solitary wall, as can be seen from an
examination of Plate 38 b. It is the campanile, in each
case attached to the church wall, which gives dignity and
character to the fachada at San Gabriel and Santa Ines.

San Luis Obispo (Plate 5 b), San Juan Bautista (Plate
34 a), and San Miguel (Plate 36 a), make no pretence to
imposing fachadas. The chief entrance is at the end of the
main church building. Somewhat more elaborate, and
made imposing with its massive tower at the right, and
large hipped buttress at the left, is the fachada of San
Buenaventura (Plate 7 b). Here, too, the arched and
corniced doorway, with the simple pilasters, and the tri-
angular entablature pierced by a square window aperture
and a bracketed niche for a statue, break the monotony
felt in the three previously named structures.

Santa Cruz much resembled San Buenaventura, as a

318 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

glance at Plate 31 a will show, although it will be noted
that there are but two buttresses ; that there is no tri-
angular entablature ; and that the tower recedes, instead
of projecting along the right wall as at San Buenaventura.

San Rafael had a side entrance at one end of the church
building with twin star-windows, one above the other.

Most interesting and unique, perhaps, in this respect,
is San Antonio de Padua, imperfectly shown in Plate 38 a.
Here the fachada is built some ten or twelve feet in advance
of the front end of the church. Then, the intervening
space is arched over to form a closed entrance. This
fachada is of burnt brick, although the church is of adobe,
and, while the latter is in sad ruins, the former is almost
as perfect as when built. At the bottom are three arched
entrances : all being semicircular, and the largest in the
centre. The pediment is of the Mission order, and will be
later described. Above the entrances are three piercings
for bells ; the lateral ones contained in tower-like exten-
sions, which were formerly surmounted by crosses. The
monotony of the plain brick-work is destroyed by a series
of dividing cornices, one of which reaches across from the
bases of the entrance arches. The next higher cornice
stretches unbrokenly across from the bases of the two side
bell-towers, followed by a third, which extends from the
bases of the arches of the side towers, forming a base for
the central bell piercing. There is still a fourth cornice
above this upper bell arch, and all the three bell spaces
are likewise divided by simple cornices. The result is a
most pleasing whole.

2. Pediments. At first one might believe that little or
no diversity could occur in the Mission pediments, yet
important variations may be observed. If we take that of
San Luis Rey as the typical curved and stepped pediment,
we shall find that it stands absolutely alone. Let us ana-
lyze it. Beginning at the lantern, we find that this detail
rests upon a flat top, making a sharp downward curve to

MISSION ARCHITECTURE 319

the perpendicular and resting on a narrow horizontal plat-
form ; then, a concave and convex curve reaches another
horizontal platform, followed by a final concave and con-
vex curve to the supporting cornice.

Now compare this with five other existing pediments.
That of San Gabriel has already been described. It is
the pediment of the campanile (Plate 5 a). That of
San Carlos at Monterey shows a long, sweeping, convex
curve, with a flat termination at the bottom, and scrolls at
the top connecting with a slight arch. It can scarcely be
placed in the same class.

The pediment of San Diego (Plate 3 a) is in ruined con-
dition, showing merely the double (concave and convex)
curve; while that of Santa Ines (Plate 2) is a pediment to
the campanile. Here we find a succession of convex curves ;
three in the series dropping down from the central arch
on which the cross rests, make the pediment. The pediment
of San Antonio (Plate 38 a) is again different. The
bricks of the crown are stepped, there being eight or nine
layers. Then follows a double brick cornice., the edges
of the brick being moulded to the half-round. Next is a
concave curve, a perpendicular step, resting on a flat
platform, followed by two more concave curves of unequal
length.

Here, then, we have the proof that of six Mission
pediments no two are alike.

3. Campaniles. The bell-towers show almost equal di-
versity. There are eleven Missions which had (or have)
distinct bell-towers, not including the quaint one at the
Pala Asistencia. The points of similarity between San
Gabriel and Santa Ines have been already indicated, and
the uniqueness of that of San Antonio has been discussed.
San Luis Obispo formerly had three pierced apertures
in the main wall of the church above the doorway, shown in
Plate 5 b ; but when the restoration took place, this inter-
esting feature was abolished by blocking up the apertures

320 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

and building an ugly, inharmonious, detached wooden
tower. The same style of aperture characterizing San
Luis, it will be remembered, is that which obtains at Dolores
(San Francisco).

San Juan Capistrano has a unique campanile, since it
is composed of a wall joining two buildings, and pierced
with four apertures, as shown in Plate 30 a.

Of bell-towers proper, there are six ; the best known
being those of Santa Barbara and San Luis Rey. Between
these two there are only slight differences, which already
have been indicated. The bell-tower of San Buenaventura
(Plate 7 b) is very similar except that it shows no cham-
fers, and that the corner finials are different. The tower
of Santa Cruz has disappeared, but it belonged practically
to the same class.

Entirely dissimilar, and also different from each other,
are the towers of the two Missions at Monterey. The
Mission in the Carmelo Valley, with the egg-shaped
dome, and the Mission at Monterey with the pyramidal
red-tiled roof, are well pictured in Plates 3 b and 25 b,
although Plate 8 a accentuates the charm of the latter
structure.

The Pala campanile (Plate 41 b) is unique, not only in
California, but in the world. Built upon a pyramidal base,
it is a peculiar pedimental structure standing alone. It
is two stories high, each story being pierced with a bell
aperture. There are two pediment curves, and three cor-
nices which break the monotony of its face. It was un-
doubtedly built by the same hands that fashioned San Luis
Rey.

4. Columns. Superficial observers have often condemned
the use of certain columns in recent buildings, contending
that they were not " Mission columns." But here, as in
every other branch of architecture, the Mission builders
enjoyed variety. A careful survey of the illustrations
already published in this series will show more than one

MISSION ARCHITECTURE 321

kind of column. It will be observed that I shall use
the word in its broad, and not in its rigidly technical
sense.

Of engaged columns in imitation of the classical style,
two marked examples are found: at Santa Barbara
(Plate 31 b), and at San Luis Rey (Plate 9). In this
illustration it will be observed that the entablature of the
reredos of the mortuary chapel has four engaged columns
with Ionic capitals, like those at Santa Barbara, which
have been already described.

This mortuary chapel at San Luis Rey is most beautiful
even in its desolation. Octagonal in form, it was entered
from the church ; the doorway occupying one side of the
figure, and the altar the opposite side. At each angle is
an engaged column built of brick, the front part of which
only is rounded. The rear part is rectangular and fits into
the ordinary brick of the wall, allowing the rounded sur-
face to project. As will be seen from the picture, these
columns are capped with a three-membered cornice, also
of brick ; and, springing from column to column, there is a
series of arches which serve to ornament the sides of the
octagon.

Plate 40 shows the ruined entrance to the San Luis Rey
garden, in which there occur two engaged columns which
have not yet lost all their original charm and beauty.

Columns, engaged and disengaged, are seen on the
fachada of the San Francisco de Asis (Dolores) Mission
(Plate 7 a).

The square piers for the colonnades of nearly all the
Missions are similar to those pictured in Plate 25 a and in
Plate 22. These square piers are built of brick and
plastered. At Santa Barbara, they have chamfered cor-
ners, and occasionally, as in the colonnade of the patio
at San Antonio de Padua, they are built of adobe; but
generally burnt bricks were used. At La Purfsima Con-
cepcion, the nineteen remaining pillars are square, with

322 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

chamfered and fluted corners ; some of them being brick,
some of stone, and some of adobe, and all plastered.

The " gnawing tooth of time " wears away obj ects that
are neglected much more quickly than those which are
cherished. Here destruction proceeds in increasing ratio.
The exposed brick-work of the piers of the colonnade at San
Antonio is rapidly " eroding," and if nothing be done to
arrest the decay, the masonry will soon crumble and fall.

5. Pilasters. Under this head two illustrations must
suffice. Plate 66 a shows the side entrance of San Luis
Rey. Here it will be seen that the supporting column of
the entablature above the side entrance is of chamfered
and fluted brick. Much of the Missioners' brick was thus
moulded at San Luis and elsewhere : a point worthy of note.
As it is difficult to make plaster adhere to adobe, in order
to obtain an anchorage, the adobe walls, here and in other
Mission buildings, were divided into lozenges, into which
small pieces of brick were placed. These lozenges can be
seen near the foot of the stairway in the picture and they
are observable in many exposed portions of the walls
throughout the whole line of the Missions.

At the side entrance to the church at San Buenaventura,
a perfectly plain pilaster (except for the cornices) is used,
and the general effect is good. (Plate 45 b.) This plain
method was employed by the Mission builders in many
places, for arches, door and window-frames, etc. The
effect of this archway is most interesting, as showing how
the Mission fathers brought with them and utilized memo-
ries of the old world. The arch is Moorish-Gothic, with
renascence motifs in the entablature. The cross, as is evi-
dent, is a modern intrusion, to replace a lost, or stolen
statue.

There is an ornate clustered column at San Carlos. It
is the entrance to the chapel of the Sacred Heart of Jesus.
Here is a distinct reminiscence of the Arch of the Two
Sisters in the Alhambra. The arch is Moorish-Gothic, with

MISSION ARCHITECTURE 323

distinctive renascence features in the columns and the
entablature. It is, without question, the most ornate piece
of architectural detail found on the long line of the
Missions.

6. Arches. To treat the various Mission arches as the
subject deserves would require many more pages than can
be afforded. The variety, although nearly all of them
are included within the limits of simplicity, is far greater
than one might suppose.

Of prime interest, because it was probably the first arch
built, and in any case, the principal arch of the first Mis-
sion established, is the main entrance at San Diego. (Plate
18 a.) The austere simplicity of this arch is most pleasing.
It is structural and therefore satisfying ; the more it is
examined, the more it grows upon the observer. The sim-
plicity of the device by which it is made to stand out should
be observed. The bricks of which it is built are brought
forward a few inches in advance of the main wall. Then,
at the arch, the wall itself is recessed another inch or two,
and arch and recess are crowned with a five-membered
cornice ; the members being plain flat brick, and each row
set forward an inch or two beyond the row beneath.

Plate 18 b is interesting as showing a distributing arch
of adobe at San Antonio. The arch proper is of brick, as
is also the first distributing arch. Between the two are laid
horizontal adobe bricks with above a second distributinc:
arch, the latter of adobe bricks.

In Plate 15 is seen the square, plain arch in one of the
doorways of the buildings at San Juan Capistrano. Here,
except for the central decoration of the lintel, the whole
frame is simple. In this picture, too, it is interesting to
note the brick bases of the corridor seats.

At the same Mission, and now used as the entrance to
the chapel, is one of the most ornate of the stone-work door-
ways found in the Missions of the Southwest. (Plate 26 a.)
Indeed, the stone-work of the arches as a whole, at San

324 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

Juan, suggest that this Mission was the object of more care
and work than any of the others. This fact is evident from
the most cursory survey of Plates 26 a and 34 b. Here is
cut stone-work done by master hands ; all the piers and
arches being of work that the best craftsmen of to-day
would be proud to own.

The doorway here shown is of gray sandstone ; the key-
stone, projecting several inches, being carved in a con-
ventional eight-pointed floral design, from which a wide,
deep fluting extends either side down the jambs and shows
vase-like carving. Above there is an entablature, the main
feature of which is a two-inch half-rounded fillet terminat-
ing in cross lines on each side. A heavy cornice crowns the
whole.

In a number of instances both door and window arches
are made square on one side and, owing to the thickness of
the walls, they are recessed and rounded on the other, as in
Plate 46 a, which shows the doorway to the church at San
Antonio de Padua. The same effect is produced in stone
at the Santa Margarita chapel (Plate 16), in which the
arches of both doors and windows are deeply recessed.

But more striking, beautiful, and structural is another
doorway at the same chapel, shown in Plate 42. Here,
the curve of the ellipse of the outer side is greater than that
of the inside. There are several double arches at La Puri-
sima, as are those at Santa Margarita, but they are all
built of adobe. A little to the southeast of the centre of
the ruins is a beautiful arch. It opens into a shut-in room
at the end of which is a piece of well executed brick-work
ten feet in diameter.

Another effect, often found in the door and window
arches, is pictured in Plate 6 a, which shows the square
entrance on the church side at San Juan Bautista, and the
pointed and curved effect within the recess on the sacristy
side. With this curve as a motif, there are many changes
played upon it in Mission door and window arches. An

MISSION ARCHITECTURE 325

arch somewhat similar to the one here presented is seen in
the window above the doorway leading into the grave-
yard at Santa Barbara, although the arch is much flatter.

At San Luis Rey, the curved motif, worked out differ-
ently and without the point, is shown in the arch leading
from the church to the chapel of the Third Order of St.
Francis, and pictured in Plate 6 b. Here three convex
curves meet at a certain central convex curve, thus adding
another pleasing variation to those already noted.

Plate 19 a presents the arch and entablature over the
doorway leading from the altar to the sacristy at San
Carlos Carmelo. Here the elliptical arch, with its corres-
ponding elliptical cornice, is most effective and strong.
The structural power of these simple arches, to my mind,
contrasts most favorably with the effect of the more
ornate ones in the Monterey church, one of which is shown
in Plate 19 b. Here the direct influence of the Moorish-
Gothic-Renascence is apparent. Indeed, no pretence is made
that this is other than a copy of many similar doorways
occurring in Spain. The arch, with the renascence scroll
and the conventionalized design of the entablature, of which
the egg-and-dart pattern is the chief feature, connect it
closely with its European prototypes.

It is interesting here to note at the two Monterey
churches, what is doubtless the direct influence of Padre
Serra. In the archways, the columns, and the towers, there
is an attempt at adornment of the more ornate character,
which is not usually found in the other Missions. Four
Missions, alone, of the earlier buildings, are prominent as
expressions of architectural zeal and fervent affection.
These are: I. San Luis Rey, in which Peyri's dominating
mind revealed itself in a building which many consider the
king, indeed, of all the Mission structures. It also re-
vealed the builder's love and almost feminine tenderness in
the exquisite quality of the octagonal chapel dedicated to
the Third Order of St. Francis. II. San Juan Capistrano,

326 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

in its pristine grandeur, surpassed, perhaps, all the others.
Even the ruins speak eloquently of the love and devotion
of its builders. The stone-work is more substantial and
structural, and the ornamentation more artistic and pleas-
ing than we find them in any other building. III. San
Antonio de Padua, although built of brick and adobe, was
a structure reared by affection. The fachada has been
already discussed, and throughout the building, the lavish
care and love of the priestly builder are evident. By
reason of the short lives of these buildings, such indications
of affection are intensely pathetic. What visions of cen-
turies of power and influence must have cheered the faithful
sons of Holy Church as they planned the structures des-
tined so soon to crumble into ruin through the neglect of a
ruthless people. But is love ever lost? Can affection ever
be bestowed in vain? Only in the assurance that love is
never really wasted, can we find comfort, as we stand in
the presence of these eloquent ruins. IV. The fourth of
these especially favored buildings is that of San Carlos
Carmelo. Here Serra's power and love are felt, since this
building was the object of his adoration. While the whole
California field, in the wider sense, occupied his heart and
energy, it was upon Carmelo that he expended his most
immediate affection. This was his home, his special abid-
ing-place; therefore tower, star-window, arches, columns,
and walls evidence his influence.

Santa Barbara and Santa Lies came later, and they
rightly belong to this same class of specially favored
builders.

But to return to the details. At San Antonio, there are
a number of recessed window arches ; the frame being
square, while the arch within is elliptical. One of these
occurs in the wall of the monastery and affords a view of
the wooded plain beyond, stretching away as far as the
eye can reach ; while, to the right, the live-oak clad hills
lead up to the deep-blue California sky. We may here

MISSION ARCHITECTURE 327

picture a monk of the olden days, sitting in meditation and
transported in thought to a similar landscape in far-away
Spain. We can imagine him thus meditating until his
whole nature became saturated with the nostalgia that
kills. Little by little his reason gave way, and he died
while alive, as true a martyr as if he had been burned at
the stake or pierced by a thousand arrows. Such a picture
may seem a mere phantom of the imagination, but, alas !
it had several proofs of truthfulness in the early days of
the last century.

Plate 26 b shows the use at San Juan Capistrano of
two elliptical arches of differing axes placed side by side,
in the front corridor. It is not easy to explain this singu-
larity, unless by assuming that as the wider elliptical arch
is the later one, it was so constructed, either because a wider
space was needed, or the builder regarded the variation as
a pleasing one. Individual taste alone could decide such a
question.

This peculiar feature of the difference in span of the
arches occurs at several of the Missions and should be noted,
for, as yet, I have seen no rational explanation of it. The
rooms, too, are seldom perfect parallelograms and the pil-
lars are often irregular. These latter imperfections are
less noteworthy than the differences in the arches, though
the same explanation is generally afforded for all alike,
viz., that the work was done by the Indians, who had no
idea of regularity. In the first place the assumption that
they were incapable as to measurements is entirely gratu-
itous and fictitious, as the perfection of their work, mathe-
matically considered, in shaping ollas, baskets, pottery,
etc., demonstrates. And it is scarcely to be assumed, any-
how, that they erected these arches without direct super-
vision. So that I am led to believe, that possibly these
irregularities, instead of being attributable to the Indians,
were owing to the lack of care of the white artisans who
were imported to instruct them.

328 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

Two other arches at San Juan Capistrano demand at-
tention. Plate 24 is remarkable in that six arches are
superposed one upon another in the perspective. The one
in the foreground is an elliptical arch in the corridor.
Next follows the arch in the wall of the pteroma,1 a square
bricked doorway. On the other side of the building is a
semicircular arch over the doorway leading into the
patio. Across on the other side of the court is another
elliptical corridor-arch, behind which, dimly to be seen, are
another elliptical arched doorway and a square arched
gateway.

The quadrangle at San Juan was originally surrounded
by corridors with picturesque semicircular and elliptical
arches. At the northeast corner, where the pteroma made
a right angle, an auxiliary arch was introduced with most
picturesque effect. (Plate 46 b.) Such an arch is strongly
structural, as a support to the corners of the two meeting
lines of arches, and also to the roof covering the pteroma.
The corner pier of the series thus becomes the resting-place
of the bases of three arches, the other spandrel of the
auxiliary arch resting upon a pier built triangularly into
the wall. I do not know of a similar arch in any other of
the Mission corridors.

Thirty-eight arches still remain on three sides of the
patio at San Juan. There are none remaining on the
western side.

Another glance at Plate 26 b will reveal the picturesque,
although simple chimney at San Juan. A few hours' labor
in placing the brick tiles produced a pleasing feature out
of a necessity too often abandoned to extreme ugliness.
It is suggestive in its possibilities for modern buildings.

In the same illustration and in Plate 24 the simple device

1 Pteroma : the side or flank, hence, in modern usage, the space cov-
ered by the roof of a portico, and therefore including the columns and
intercolumniations, although in general usage it applies only to the pas-
sage between the columns and the wall behind. — Russell Sturgis.

Plate XLVI1

a. WOODEN STATUE AT SAN MIGUEL MISSION

4. CORBELS AND RAFTERS OF SAN MIGUEL MISSION

MISSION ARCHITECTURE 329

used for the ornamentation of the cornice of the corridor
arches is clearly presented. The corners of thin flat brick
tiles are placed obliquely on the top of the wall, then a
heavier brick is set over these, square with the wall
beneath.

Before concluding this chapter, I must refer to the heavy
and massive buttresses found in nearly all the Mission
buildings. Some of these are clearly seen in Plates 3 b,
7 b, 30 b, 32 b, and 38 b. Nearly all observers, on first
seeing them, ask the reason of their massiveness. But
when it is remembered that San Juan Capistrano, La
Purfsima, San Juan Bautista and others suffered severely
from the shocks of earthquakes in the early part of the
last century, the motive for these tremendous masses be-
comes apparent. They were made extra large and heavy
as a precaution against future disaster.

Many more details might be presented with both inter-
est and profit, but the ones chosen I regard as the most
important. They at least suggest that, although the
Mission architects and builders were dominated by one
common style, they were, by no means, servile imitators of
originals, or copyists of one another.

330 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER XXX

THE INTERIOR DECORATIONS OF THE MISSIONS

WE cannot to-day determine how the Franciscans
of the southwest decorated the interiors of all
their churches. Some of these buildings have
disappeared entirely ; while others have been restored or
renovated beyond all semblance of their original condition.
But enough are left to give us a satisfactory idea of the
labors of the fathers and of their subject Indians. At the
outset, it must be confessed that while the fathers under-
stood well the principles of architecture and created a
natural, spontaneous style, meeting all obstacles of time
and place which presented themselves, they showed little
skill in matters of interior decoration, possessing neither
originality in design, the taste which would have enabled
them to become good copyists, nor yet the slightest appre-
ciation of color-harmony. In making this criticism, I do
not overlook the difficulties in the way of the missionaries,
or the insufficiency of materials at command. The priests
were as much hampered in this work as they were in that
of building. But, in the one case, they met with brilliant
success ; in the other they failed. The decorations have,
therefore, a distinctly pathetic quality. They show a most
earnest endeavor to beautify what to those who wrought
them was the very home of God. Here mystically dwelt
the very body, blood, and reality of the Obj ect of Worship.
Hence the desire to glorify the dwelling-place of their God,
and their own temple. The great distance in this case
between desire and performance is what makes the result
pathetic. Instead of trusting to themselves, or reverting

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a. OLD PULPIT AT SAX MIGUEL MISSION

b. JUNCTION OF CHOIR AND CHURCH ZONKS OY DECORATION,
SAN MIGUEL MISSION

THE

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INTERIOR DECORATION 331

to first principles, as they did in architecture, the mission-
aries endeavored to reproduce from memory the ornaments
with which they had been familiar in their early days in
Spain. They remembered decorations in Catalonia, Canta-
bria, Mallorca, Burgos, Valencia, and sought to imitate
them ; having neither exactitude nor artistic qualities to
fit them for their task. No amount of kindliness can
soften this decision. The results are to be regretted; for
I am satisfied that, had the fathers trusted to themselves,
or sought for simple nature-inspirations, they would have
given us decorations as admirable as their architecture.
What I am anxious to emphasize in this criticism is the
principle involved. Instead of originating or relying upon
nature, they copied without intelligence. The rude brick,
adobe, or rubble work, left in the rough, or plastered and
whitewashed, would have been preferable to their unmean-
ing patches of color. In the one, there would have been
rugged strength to admire ; in the other there exists only
pretence to condemn.

After this criticism was written I asked for the opinion
of the learned and courteous Frays Glauber and Zephyrin,
the former the guardian of Santa Barbara Mission, and
the latter the Franciscan historian. In reply I received the
following letter which so clearly gives another side to the
matter that I am glad to quote it entire:

" I do not think your criticism from an artistic view is too
severe ; but it would have been more just to judge the decora-
tions as you would the efforts of amateurs, and then to have
made sure as to their authors.

" You assume that they were produced by the Padres them-
selves. This is hardly demonstrable. They probably gave
directions, and some of them, in their efforts to make things
plain to the crude mind of the Indians, may have tried their
hands at work to which they were not trained any more than
clerical candidates or university students are at the present
time ; but it is too much to assume that those decorations give

332 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

evidence even of the taste of the Fathers. In that matter, as
in everything else that was not contrary to faith or morals, they
adapted themselves to the taste of their wards, or very likely,
too, to the humor of such stray "artists " as might happen upon
the coast, or whom they might be able to import. You must
bear in mind that in all California down to 1854 there were no
lay-brothers accompanying the Fathers to perform such work as
is done by our lay-brothers now, who can very well compete
with the best of secular artisans. The church of St. Boniface,
San Francisco, and the church of St. Joseph, Los Angeles, are
proof of this. Hence the Fathers were left to their own wits in
giving general directions, and to the taste of white " artists,"
and allowed even Indians to suit themselves. You will find this
all through ancient Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona. The
Indians loved the gaudy, loud, grotesque, and as it was the main
thing for the Fathers to gain the Indians in any lawful way
possible, the taste of the latter was paramount.

" As your criticism stands, it cannot but throw a slur upon the
poor missionaries, who after all did not put up these buildings
and had them decorated as they did for the benefit of future
critics, but for the instruction and pleasure of the natives. Hav-
ing been an Indian missionary myself, I acted just so. I have
found that the natives would not appreciate a work of art,
whereas they prized the grotesque. Well, as long as it drew
them to prize the supernatural more, what difference did it
make to the missionary? You yourself refer to the unwise
action of the Pala priest in not considering the taste and the
affection of the Indians."

Another critic of my criticism insists that, " while the
Indians, if left to themselves, possess harmony of color
which seems never to fail, they always demand startling
effects from us." This, I am inclined to question. The
Indians' color-sense in their basketry is perfect, as also in
their blankets, and I see no reason for the assumption
that they should demand of us what is manifestly so con-
trary to their own natural and normal tastes.

It must, in justice to the padres, be confessed that,
holding the common notions on decoration, it is often harder

INTERIOR DECORATION 333

to decorate a house than it is to build it; but why decorate
at all? The dull color of the natural adobe, or plaster,
would have at least been true art in its simple dignity of
architecture, whereas when covered with unmeaning de-
signs in foolish colors even the architectural dignity is
detracted from.

I am willing to allow my criticism to remain as I wrote
it. It is no less a tribute to the great hold the work of the
padres has on my heart that I am ready frankly to criti-
cise it.

One writer says that the colors used in these interior
decorations were mostly of vegetable origin and were sized
with glue. The yellows were extracted from poppies, blues
from nightshade, though the reds were gained from stones
picked up from the beach. The glue was manufactured on
the spot from the bones, etc., of the animals slaughtered
for food.

As examples of interior decoration, the Missions of San
Miguel Arcangel and Santa Ines are the only ones that
afford opportunity for extended study. At Santa Clara,
the decorations of the ceiling were restored as nearly like
the original as possible, but with modern colors and work-
manship. At Pala Chapel, within the last three or four
months, the priest judged dead white preferable to the old
decorations, and, greatly to the indignation of the Indians,
whose wishes he did not consult, he has whitewashed the
mural distemper paintings out of existence. A small
patch remains at San Juan Bautista merely as an example ;
while a splashed and almost obliterated fragment is the
only survival at San Carlos Carmelo.

At San Miguel, little has been done to disturb the in-
terior, so that it is in practically the same condition as
it was left by the padres themselves. Fr. Zephyrin in-
forms me that these decorations were done by one Murros,
a Spaniard, whose daughter, Mrs. McKce, at the age of
over eighty, is still alive at Monterey. She told him that

334 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

the work was done in 1820 or 1821. He copied the designs
out of books, she says, and none but Indians assisted him
in the actual work, though the padres were fully consulted
as it progressed.

Plate 35 shows the interior of the church. As its ar-
rangement is not unlike many of the others, and the decora-
tions, necessarily, are dependent upon the various functions
performed in different parts of the building, I shall take
the privilege of describing San Miguel interior in detail,
with a chief eye, however, upon the mural decorations.
Five distinct divisions deserve attention. These are : I. the
reredos and its ornaments ; II. the ceiling ; III. the walls ;
IV. the old pulpit; V. the ancient confessional.

I. The Reredos. This occupies the entire western end
of the church, reaching from the floor to the ceiling. (Plate
35.) The altar now in use is modern; with the remainder
just as it came from the hands of the fathers. The reredos
consists of three panels ; the central one containing the
wooden statue of San Miguel, and the side panels showing
other saints. The San Miguel, representing the patron of
the Mission, is a striking statue, about six feet in height,
and much larger than the side statues. In his right hand
he holds the scales and in his left a sword, on which is in-
scribed a Latin motto. The bracket upon which he stands
is the original one cut and painted by the fathers. It is
rude, heavy, and composed of simple members : namely,
a slightly rounded base supporting a thick block with
quarter-round, square, and round moulding.

The statue at the left of the altar is clothed in the garb
of the Franciscan, with beard, tonsured head, outstretched
hands, and one foot upon a skull.

Plate 47 a shows the figure to the right. It is tonsured,
shaven, a,nd wears the Franciscan garb. The panels are
divided from one another by coupled columns ; those sup-
porting the pediment of the centre panel standing out
about two feet in front of the others, and having two flat

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INTERIOR DECORATION 335

engaged columns at their back. The bases of these
columns are simple, half-rounded mouldings, the shaft is a
plain cylinder, and the capital a dual leaf, as if in rude
imitation of the Corinthian. The entablature is simple
and effective, its centre bearing a large All-Seeing Eye,
radiating beams of light. Above this and over each side
panel is a bracket sustaining an ornament in the shape
of a chalice, each connected with the other across the whole
face of the altar by clusters of grapes and leaves. These
chalices have each a cover and two handles. The rays issu-
ing from the centre piece bear evidences of having afforded
a resting-place for owls and other night birds during the
days when the Mission was abandoned. Even now, as I
sit writing, I hear the cooing of many doves that nest
under the open eaves, through which feathers come float-
ing into the sacred edifice.

The pillars are mottled in imitation of marble, and the
altar and mural decorations are in colors, chief of which
are blue, green, red, pink, and pale-green. The base of the
panellings is pink.

On the left, above the statue, is an oval panel painted
with the two crossed hands of the Christ, showing the nail-
holes of the cross. On the other side is a similar oval
panel, decorated with symbolic figures.

There are two side altars, the one at the right sacred
to the Holy Mother; and the other to Saint Joseph and
the Holy Child. The figure of the Madonna is modern,
but the painting is old and well illustrates the artistic ideas
of the fathers. A similar painted canopy covers the old
figure of San Jose.

II. The Ceiling. This can be studied in Plate 35. There
are twenty-eight rafters upholding the roof, and extending
completely across the church. Each rafter rests upon a
corbel which can be seen a little more distinctly in Plate
47 b. Both rafters and corbels are rough-hewn from the
solM trees and they have sustained unimpaired to the

336 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

present day the heavy weight of the roof. This is estimated
to be not less than two hundred thousand pounds. The
rafters are each ten by twelve inches in the square, and
fully forty feet long. They were cut in the mountains at
Cambria, forty miles away, and carried by the Indians to
their destination. These rafters protrude some twelve
inches or so through the wall, to which they are fastened or
keyed with large wooden spikes.

Over the altar, the corbels are tinted a light green, and
the ceiling and rafters pink. Other colors used in the
mural decorations, are blue and white. Over the altar,
there is also a further decoration of the ceiling in a leafy
design in blue, by which special honor is given to the most
sacred portion of the church.

III. The Walls. These are executed in three zones : that
of the altar, and those of the church and choir. These
decorations are generally called frescoes, but, as I believe,
erroneously. They are in reality distemper paintings on
plaster. A true fresco is executed with mineral or earthy
pigments upon a newly laid stucco ground of lime or
gypsum ; so that the colors sinking in become as durable
as the stucco itself. This, it appears to me, is not the
case with the San Miguel decorations. As a general criti-
cism I may say that, although crude and inharmonious,
they are exceedingly interesting, as they are so evi-
dently a work of love and devotion. The desire to beautify
the sacred house is there manifest, although the power
adequately to accomplish the purpose was wanting. To
the Mission fathers the completed church was dear, beauti-
ful, and sacred, because beautified to the best of their
ability, and raised with the ardor of their whole souls to
the glory of God.

In the altar space the mural decorations on the sides
consist of thirteen bands, alternating green and brown ;
the green being a design of pomegranate leaf, sprig, and
fruit ; the brown a conventional design of leaves arranged

Plate L

V * 7 '

'<** ^«mB<

a. WALL DECORATION, SANTA INfiS

6. WALL DECORATION, SAN .HAN CAP1STRANO

THE

Pu' ary]

^ Aster, Ler.sx ind Tiiden,
1905

INTERIOR DECORATION 337

in a lozenge pattern. On each side a painted panel is in-
troduced for an altar, as before described. In Plate 48 a
can also be seen, above the perpendicular bands, a hori-
zontal band about three feet wide, the design being of small
squares set with a conventional pattern. There is a fringe
or border, painted in blue to represent lace with tassels,
both above and below this band. Still another horizontal
band, about three feet wide, in gray and pink, with a
painted cornice connecting the wall decorations with the
moulded cornice above, complete the mural adornments in
the altar zone.

Beginning at the altar, there is a zone of decoration
extending on each side of the church, about eighteen feet.
This might be termed the pulpit zone, for in it, on the right
side, the pulpit is located, as seen in Plate 48 a. This deco-
ration comprises a series of bands in pink and shades of
green, radiating fan-shaped from a green base, situated
between three and four feet above the floor. This fan
design is enclosed in a painted panel, outlined by fluted
columns, in blue. These columns continue, at a distance
of about twelve feet apart, along the body of the church
to the choir zone, at which point an entirely different de-
sign is introduced. The columns are further decorated
by a conventional leaf-and-fern pattern, as seen in Plate
48 b, which also shows the frieze and the painted balus-
trade, both of these extending from the altar zone to that
of the choir. Above and below the choir loft, the design
is the Greek key.

IV. The Old Pulpit. A peculiar fascination pertains

to this little structure, with its quaint sounding-board and

crown-like cover, the whole resembling a bird-nest fastened

upon the right wall. It is reached by a flight of eight

steps from the inside of the altar rail, and is octagonal in

form, three of the eight sides being occupied by the door

and the point of attachment to the wall. It is decorated

as follows: the inner panel is deep blue, with a band of

338 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

greenish yellow; the outer panel being in dark green en-
closed by a moulding in blue, red, and gray. The under
scallop is in red, with a band above of greenish yellow.
The sounding-board is shaped like a crown surmounted
with a ball, on which rests a cross. The crown is painted
green, gold, black, and silver, with the scalloped edge in
red.

V. The Old Confessional. The confessional shown in
Plate 49 a is built into the solid adobe wall, with two swing-
ing doors opening from it. One of these has been replaced
by new material, as seen in the picture; the other, except
for the insertion of a new panel of redwood, is as the fathers
left it. The old iron hinges, three pairs of which remain,
are originals, and good examples of the iron handiwork
of the time. The decoration of the old door is the continu-
ation of one of the fluted columns before described.

At Santa Ines the original decorations of the altar zone
still remain. Elsewhere they have been destroyed with the
all-covering whitewash. In this church the ceiling beams
are painted with red, yellow, and green, into a portion of
a circle with pendants at each point, and with a leaf de-
sign inside each arc. On the bottom of each beam is a
conventionalized trailing vine.

The decorations of the side wall are of black and green
around the window, and a rude imitation of marble in
panels at each side. In each panel hangs a wooden bracket,
painted in water-color, and supporting oil paintings.
About three feet from the base is a border of yellow, green,
and red of a large conventionalized leaf, alternating with
a chalice, or vase.

The reredos is pretentious and inharmonious. Indeed,
were it not for the sacred furnishings, statues, and altar
beneath, it would suggest a rude stage-setting hastily pre-
pared for an emergency, rather than its sacred function.
It is a series of marbleized panels, enclosed in columns,
with bases and cornices. The archway leading from the

INTERIOR DECORATION 339

sanctuary into the sacristy is somewhat elaborately, al-
though rudely decorated, as shown in Plate 49 b. This
figure, also, gives some detail of the dadoes of the reredos,
with its marble panelling and conventional figures in dia-
monds of differing size.

The most striking and pleasing mural decoration of the
whole building is found in the seclusion of the sacristy.
It is done in blues, reds, and yellows, and is pictured in
Plate 50 a. The flower (rose?) and leaf below the Greek
key, and the conventional flower and leaf above are the
most artistic decorations that I have yet seen in the Cali-
fornia Missions.

At San Luis Rey some of the old mural decorations
remain, as seen in the marbleizing of the engaged col-
umns, the dadoes at their base, the wavy line extending
about the lower part of the walls, and the designs in the
doorways and arches (Plate 51 a). On the reredos of
the side altar, also, there are remnants of decoration in
distemper.

The winged angels, carrying the crown, constitute a fair
example of the ability of the fathers in this branch of
decorative art ; the columnar design on the right and the
left of the reredos, as well as the decoration of the lower
wall on the right, deserve to be examined.

Plate 51 b shows the interior wall decorations of the Pala
Chapel, a dependency of the San Luis Rey Mission. The
adobe walls were plastered and whitewashed ; then the rude
columns and arches were colored in distemper to a reddish
brown. When the Palatingwa Indians were removed from
Warner's Ranch to Pala, they were told that this chapel
would be theirs, and that a priest would be sent regularly
to minister to them. Imagine their chagrin to find it leased
to the Landmarks Club of Los Angeles. Bishop Conaty
of Los Angeles arranged that services should be conducted
with regularity, sending a priest to reside among them.
This latter, with a zeal for cleanliness and for making all

340 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

things under his control conform to his own ideas, neglect-
ful or unobservant of the irritated condition of the Indians
under his charge, and without consulting them (so I am
informed), ordered the walls to be whitewashed. The in-
dignation of the Indians was intense ; and were it not that
high feeling had been common to them of late, they would
have practically resented this desecration of the time-hon-
ored wall decorations. To an unsympathetic stranger their
anger might appear unreasonable and absurd; but when
it is remembered that all the Indians of this region are
responsive to the memories and traditions of Padre Peyri
and other early workers at the Missions of San Diego and
San Luis Rey, their feelings appear natural and almost
proper.

At Santa Barbara all that remains of the old decorations
are found in the reredos, the marbleizing of the engaged
columns on each wall and the entrance and side arches,
as shown in Plate 29. This marble effect is exceedingly
crude, and does not represent the color of any known
marble.

Here and there on the walls at San Juan Bautista
are a few remnants of the old distemper paintings. On the
further side of the seventh arch on the left is a conventional
leaf design in brownish red.

In the old building of San Francisco the rafters of the
ceiling have been allowed to retain their ancient decorations.
These consist of rhomboidal figures placed conventionally
from end to end of the building.

At Santa Clara, when the church was restored in 1861—
62, and again in 1885, the original decorations on walls
and ceiling were necessarily destroyed or injured. But
where possible they were kept intact; where injured, re-
touched ; and where destroyed, replaced as near the orig-
inal as the artist could accomplish. In some cases the
original work was on canvas, and some on wood. Where
this could be removed and replaced it was done. The re-

Plate

a. REB.EDOS A.ND SIDE ALTAR, SAN LUIS HEY

"'-V'

b. MIRAI. DECORATION'S AT PA LA CHAPEL

INTERIOR DECORATION 341

touching was done by an Italian artist who came down
from San Francisco.

On the walls, the wainscot line is set off with the sinuous
body of the serpent, which not only lends itself well to such
a purpose of ornamentation, but was a symbolic reminder
to the Indians of that old serpent, the devil, the father of
lies and evil, who beguiled our first parents in the Garden
of Eden.

In the ruins of the San Fernando church faint traces of
the decorations of the altar can still be seen in two simple
rounded columns, with cornices above.

At San Juan Capistrano, on the east side of the quad-
rangle, in the northeast corner, is a small room ; and in one
corner of this is a niche for a statue, the original decora-
tions therein still remaining. It is weather-stained, and the
rain has washed the adobe in streaks over some of it ; yet
it is interesting. It consists of a rude checkerboard de-
sign, or, rather, of a diagonal lozenge pattern in reds and
yellows (see Plate 50 b).

There are also a few remnants of the mural distemper
paintings in the altar zone of the ruined church.

342 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER XXXI

THE FURNITURE AND OTHER WOOD-WORK OF THE MISSIONS

WITHIN the past few years, the term " Mission
Furniture " has become current. But it has
been accepted too freely, and without having
been subjected to proper investigation. If by the use of
that name the idea is conveyed that it is modelled after the
furniture made and used in the old California Missions it
is clearly unjustified, since the Spanish fathers who estab-
lished the California Missions failed to create a style of
furniture as distinctive as their architecture.

In the erection of the buildings themselves the padres
seemed to reach the limit of their artistic capacity. This
result was inevitable. The Mission houses were the prop-
erty of one of the two great brotherhoods founded early
in the thirteenth century in the effort to preserve the relig-
ious unity of the world. Everything tending to assure the
life, to strengthen the power of the fraternity, was to be
undertaken without fear and executed at all risks. As a
consequence, the claims of the individual were reduced to
nothing, or rather absorbed in the general scheme. The vow
of the Franciscan involved personal poverty, chastity, and
obedience. Daily he was reminded of his vow by the scourg-
ing of the three knots of his rope girdle, and constantly
he found the results of his solemn promises in the most
frugal of fare, hard labor, and the absolute bareness of
his cell.

From these facts it is clear that everything which ap-
proached the idea of individual belongings, ease, or luxury
was strictly eliminated from the life of the California mis-

Plate LI1

■s

WLIr ■

^ *

■ pc

} *«>£

n ' 1 HU

_jj|

~*^2I

■i < ^

I ■

■

^'^ ""

vA "

j^^^Bm

^HCV'/ flH

R>-_J

r \(

n t flS

1^^^

-' y 1

l*a^i*ji6^Bb*^'*B

i Bj

i j da

a. MISSION BENCH AT LOS ANGELES CHAPEL

b. CONFESSIONAL AT SAK .11 AN CAPISTRANO

PUSL!
vAstor Lenw and Tilden ,
1905

FURNITURE AND WOOD-WORK 343

sionaries, as fatal to the interests of their order. They
provided their cells, their refectories, their chapels with
such movables only as served their strictest necessities. To
have done otherwise would have been to attacli the foun-
dations of their brotherhood, to have provided for the com-
fort of their bodies, which they were taught to abase and
mortify. It was as impossible as it was unsought on their
part for them to create any types whatsoever of domestic
art. Their movables were collected by chance, or, when
made by them, were constructed upon primitive models.
Their chairs, tables, and benches were such as fell into
their possession, or else were fashioned from such upright
and horizontal timbers as might have been used by the first
cabinet maker.

Thus, obedient to their conception of the religious life,
furthermore, not possessing a racial art-instinct like cer-
tain other divisions of the Latin peoples, these Spanish
monks accepted whatever material objects were most easily
obtainable, and held themselves aloof from their influence.
It cannot be too much emphasized that, regarding life as
a mere passage, as a series of painful tests and proofs,
they rejected upon principle whatever might attach them
to it.

Therefore, from argument, and equally from evidence
existing in the objects themselves, it is apparent that there
is no " Mission Style," except that which pertains to archi-
tecture. And as the latter has been illustrated in the
present pages by its most notable examples, so now the
movable objects used or constructed by the missionaries for
domestic or ecclesiastical purposes are here shown in a
representative collection. These objects may be divided
into two classes, one of which comprises such things as were
copied more or less accurately from typical originals, as
they were remembered, or else such as were brought from
the mother country. These especially are the pulpits, con-
fessionals, lecterns, and candelabra. It is proper to desig-

344 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

nate them as objects found in the Missions. The other
class consists, for the most part, of objects for domestic
use. They originated in the Missions, without, however,
constituting a distinctive style, since they show nothing but
the simplest provisions to meet bare necessities. They prove
that no " Mission Style " of furniture ever existed, and
place the term where it rightly belongs ; that is, among
those names which, first applied for commercial purposes,
are generally accepted, in obedience to that love of mys-
tery and romance which invades even the most prosaic
lives.

In order, then, to afford a basis of judgment between the
types of the new style and the objects from which they re-
ceived their name, the accompanying illustrations have
been selected from those Missions of the entire California
chain which offer the best examples ; and, as already it has
been said, the collection has been arranged with the direct
purpose to show that the furnishings of these religious
houses, being indiscriminately gathered, can present no
thorough principles upon which to base a system of con-
structive art. In this collection there is included, it is be-
lieved, a specimen of every important variety, excepting
the altar chairs at San Carlos, Monterey, and one chair
formerly at San Diego ; all of which, plainly of Ori-
ental origin, were probably brought by one of the ships
trading with the Philippines in the early days of Spanish
supremacy.

The series of illustrations may well begin with the
benches which are among the most direct models serving for
the new " Mission Style." Plate 52 a is a seat of this char-
acter, preserved at Los Angeles. We observe in this a
piece of good form, constructed of rough uprights and
horizontals crudely put together by an unskilled joiner,
the back-rest and the seat front board even suggesting the
work of Indians. It is interesting to note that the priest
sitting on this bench is the Reverend Father Adam, widely

I'i.ati: IJII

«. CHAIR IN RELIC-ROOM,
SANTA CLARA

e. CHAIR l.\ RELIC-ROOM,
SANTA BARBARA

h. CHAIR AT SAN J LAN BALTIC \

d. CHAIR AT SAJN 1H KN.WKMU1U

NE.

'PUBLIC L

\As:c" L den,

FURNITURE AND WOOD-WORK 345

known and greatly esteemed, whose departure for Spain
a few years since was much regretted in California, where
he had been one of the most zealous workers of the Catho-
lic Church. Father Adam is here seen holding in his hand
one of the old registers of the San Juan Capistrano Mis-
sion, bound in the soft leather peculiar to the conventual
books of the period.

A similar simple and well-constructed piece, displaying
on the seat front board carvings which are not ungraceful,
exists in the relic-room at Santa Barbara.

Plate 53 a is one of two old chairs of the sanctuary,
now preserved in the relic-room at Santa Clara. They
arc heavy, solid, and crude in workmanship and orna-
mentation. The legs of one of the chairs are strongly
curved and carved. The seats of both are much too nar-
row, and eloquently speak of the compulsion they laid
upon their users to sit bolt upright. The arms of one
are slightly hollowed for the elbows, and the ends are
scrolled. The top of the head-rest has a slight pretence
of ornamentation in the crude scalloped work. The other
chair is absolutely plain except for the scalloping, which
it is evident was laboriously done by hand. Hand-made
nails and wooden pegs were used to hold the pieces
together.

Plate 53 b, a dilapidated chair at San Juan Bautista, is
of a type often seen in Spain. Although quite simple, the
chair, as judged by its structure and lathe-work, proceeded
from the hand of a well-skilled cabinet-maker.

Plate 53 c, from the relic-room at Santa Barbara,
mingles the Dutch with the Spanish type, an occurrence
not infrequent in art and handicraft work, owing to the
close political and social connections once existing between
the peoples of these two widely different races.

Plate 53 d, a chair at San Buenaventura, is built upon
sound structural principles, although in a crude fashion.
It is mortised and tenoned, and there is an attempt at or-

346 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

namentation in the front stretcher, the rounding of the
arms, and the terminations of the posts.

Plate 54 a is a cupboard at San Juan Bautista, still
bearing the rude hinges of the early Mission forge, and
carved with the utmost skill of the early fathers ; the work
on this piece being much superior to that which is gener-
ally seen on similar pieces. The ornament is here signifi-
cant of the use fulfilled by the cabinet, which is a receptacle
for ecclesiastical vessels. The monstrance and the chalice
appear surmounted by a design which may be a variant of
the " Tree of Life," so frequently seen in old Italian,
Spanish, and Flemish wood-carvings ; while the cockle-
shell of the cornice is the symbol of Saint James the Elder,
or Santiago, the traveller among the Apostles and the
patron of Spain.

Plate 54 b shows brackets, shelf, and a cupboard, the
work of the Indians at Santa Barbara, and dating from
1824.

Leaving now the furniture proper, let us pass on to
examine other wood-work found in the Missions. The first
specimen chosen is a door, and it may be observed that in
producing work of this character the Mission fathers kept
within the limits of their capabilities, no delicate handling
being required in order to attain satisfactory results. The
entrance door at San Luis Obispo is shown in Plate 56 b.
At this Mission the entire church has been " restored " out
of all resemblance to its original state. But fortunately,
although the framework seen in this picture is new, the
door itself dates from the days of the early fathers. It
has sustained the attack of time and weather better than
most modern work will do, and some of its original hinges
are still in use. It is ornamented by two rosette-like panels
with terrace-bevelled edges, fastened upon each of the two
divisions ; these being impaled with heavy spikes, the heads
of which form star-like bosses, while other similar bosses
are disposed symmetrically throughout the body of the

Plate LIV

a. RECEPTACLE FOR ECCLESIASTICAL
VESSELS, SAN JUAN BAITISTA

J. BRACKETS, SIIELE, AM) CUPBOARD,
MADE BY INDIANS, SANTA BARBARA

[£

II ■■

-|jy ft

r^3

c. CONFESSIONAL, SAN BUENAVENTURA

,1. PULPIT, SAN LUIS KEY

THE
NEW VOR1
'pUEL!

^stc:

FURNITURE AND WOOD-WORK 347

door. Regarded as ornament, both panels and bosses are
trivial, but, serving to strengthen the door, they are ad-
missible as a constructive feature.

Plate 56 a is chosen from San Miguel. Here, also, the
frame is new, the door only being original. This, as occurs
elsewhere, is a device of a door within a door, the construc-
tion of which may be better understood by reference to the
illustration than through an explanation in words. It may
be noted that here some of the original hinges are still in
use, being as firmly riveted as when first attached. Of
these there are three pairs fully a foot in length, together
with three smaller pairs for the use of the smaller
doors.

Plate 54 c shows a confessional at San Buenaventura,
and in Plate 28 a is seen a pulpit of similar workmanship,
both of which were brought from Spain through Mexico,
or else were made in the latter country by a superior work-
man. Unfortunately, like the church in which it stands,
the confessional has been subjected to a " restoration "
which has greatly marred its original character. The
pulpit has totally disappeared, or, at least, so stated the
present priest when recently questioned.

Plate 55 a shows a pulpit, being the original construc-
tion still in use at San Juan Bautista. It is in no wise dis-
tinctive, and might be found in any Roman Catholic coun-
try, just as the reredos or the side altars might as well be
located in France or in Lower Canada, for aught that is
revealed in their structure. The pulpit, however, attains
importance from the fact that from it, seventy-five years
since, a devoted missionary, Father Arroya, preached the
gospel to the Indians in thirteen of their native dialects.

Another pulpit (Plate 54 d) is of a type commonly
found in continental churches, and calls for no special com-
ment, except that the corbel with its conical sides har-
monizes with the panels and base-moulding of the box
proper. This model, so frequently seen, loses nothing by

348 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

familiarity, and is always grateful to the eye by reason of
its symmetrical proportions.

Plate 28 b is a picture which no lover of the old Missions
can look upon without being sensible of its pathos. It
represents the interior of San Antonio, as it stood some
twenty years ago ; and when it is compared with the pres-
ent state of the place it awakens deep regret. A number of
interesting features have disappeared. The wooden ceil-
ing, the altar rails, the benches, the confessional, the pulpit
have been taken away or destroyed by ruthless hands.
Other objects of interest would have shared the same fate
had they not been seized and preserved by Mr. G. C.
Dutton of Jolon, who, holding them in trust, has now ar-
ranged to deliver them to the Landmarks Club of San
Francisco, which has undertaken to preserve what remains
of the buildings at San Antonio.

Plate 56 c is a Paschal candlestick now in use at Santa
Barbara, showing the undisguised constructive lines which
the new " Mission Style " takes as its basis. On the other
hand, the Paschal candlestick of the Santa Clara Mission
is quite elaborate, carved in a very conventional and ornate
manner, and then painted and gilded. It is nearly six feet
high, and is composed of three parts, — the base, the sup-
porting column, and the candleholder. There appear in
Plate 57 a two other light-holders, placed on either side of
a large crucifix. The former are evidently of domestic
make, but are pleasing by their obelisk-like outlines and
the lamps at the apex, which accentuate the artistic idea.
The crucifix is notable in having the feet of the suffering
Christ crossed and pierced by a single nail. It once served
on the high altar, and it shows over all its surface the
assiduous work of " the worm, our busy brother."

Plate 56 d represents the music desk, or lectern, at San
Juan Bautista, which once held the ponderous psalter-book,
while the brothers stood about it chanting the service. The
pages of the book were kept in place by small wooden pegs

Plate LV

i.
15
O

<!
H
to
— i

3
<!
H

FURNITURE AND WOOD-WORK 349

inserted into holes, and the pegs were hung upon the desk
by means of fine, braided catgut.

In the missal-stand for use on the high altar, shown in
Plate 57 c, and contained in the relic-case at Santa Clara,
we have an ingeniously constructed piece of wood-work. It
is formed of what appears to be two pieces of inch-board
which open and shut without hinges. The two pieces of
board are themselves hinged in the shoulder, so that the
piece closes up tightly, or can be opened at the angle per-
mitted. It was made from a two-inch board sawed down
to the upper part of the shoulder from above, and up to
the lower part of the shoulder from below. Five vertical
cuts or slits were made in the shoulder for the hinges and
then the curves of the shoulder itself, on both upper and
lower sides, were cut with a sharp instrument. The result
displays much inventive faculty, and the repetition of the
device at several of the Missions proves that its merit was
appreciated.

At Santa Barbara there is preserved among the relics
an old processional wooden cross, having the floriated ter-
minals familiar in examples of the Holy Symbol, dating
from the crusading period. This piece is shown in Plate
57 b, while Plate 57 d represents the old font for holy
water, still in use, at the entrance to the Mission of San
Miguel. This is made from the bole of a tree, and is about
three feet in height, fluted and fitted to contain a basin.

At San Juan Capistrano and Santa Barbara rude mov-
able wooden belfries formerly served on occasions when it
was not advisable to ring the larger bells. The one seen in
Plate 58 a is now preserved in the relic-room at Santa Bar-
bara. It is a rude wheel of wood, to the circumference of
which the bells are fastened; the whole revolving on an
iron pin, held in the sockets of, the supporting posts and
operated by an iron handle.

Plate 58 b pictures the matraca (clapper or rattle) used
at the Mission from Holy Thursday to Easter Sunday, a

350 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

period when the bells of the campanario are never rung,
and are said to have " gone to Rome."

At San Juan Capistrano the baptismal font is capped
with a wooden cover represented in Plate 58 c. It is an
interesting although crude piece of workmanship, provided
with old iron hinges made in the Mission shops. Three
sections of the carved circular frame have disappeared, but
the remaining portion testifies to the taste and the rudi-
mentary skill of the one who fashioned it. The pouring
shell seen at the front is of silver, and was probably
brought from Mexico.

Plate 58 d is of a chandelier made by the Indians, and
long used in the Santa Barbara Mission.

Almost hidden in an obscure corner of the relic-room at
Santa Barbara is an interesting decorative fragment. It
is the crown-piece of the ancient altar tabernacle, and is
ornamented with the Sacred Hearts of Jesus and Mary,
and the instruments of the Passion. The piece is further-
more notable as affording the first instance, as far as is
known, of the use of the iridescent abalone shell, which is
now employed so frequently and effectively in the modern
handicraft of California.

There remain many other uses of wood and many other
wooden objects which might be described, such as the
wooden bells once hanging as " dummies " in the cam-
panile at San Buenaventura ; the old pulpit at Santa
Clara (which has been restored according to the original
scheme) ; the reliquary case used in processions by Father
Junipero Serra ; the altar rail in the practically new Mis-
sion church at Santa Clara, made from the original red-
wood beams which spanned the old Mission structures.

SILVER AND BRASS WARE 351

CHAPTER XXXII

THE SILVER AND BRASS WARE OF THE MISSIONS

IT is impossible in a brief chapter to present pictures
and descriptions of all the silver and brass ware
found at the Missions, but it will be interesting and
instructive to see a few examples. Much of this ware was
brought by the padres from Mexico. Of much of it we
have Padre Palou's lists, made ere the things were shipped
from Lower California. As we have elsewhere seen, many
of them were contributed — willingly or otherwise — by
the Missions there. Hence all these pieces have a peculiar
and romantic interest. Some came from Spain to Vera
Cruz. They were then packed on mules across the hun-
dreds of miles to the City of Mexico. From thence they
were transported on mule-back to the coast, and then in
vessels across the Gulf of California to the Jesuit Missions.
Here for years they were the objects of respect and vener-
ation of the rude savages of the Peninsula ; then they came
into the hands of the Franciscans, were gathered together,
and either transported by vessel to San Diego, or on mule-
back up the dreary roads and over the frightful mountain
passes of the Peninsula to the new Missions of Alta Cali-
fornia ; so that each article has condensed within it a wide
range of romance, and should be religiously guarded and
preserved because of what it enshrines.

From the technical standpoint, they are also interesting
as showing a wonderful difference in artistic conception
and workmanship. Some of them are pathetic in their
makeshift grasp of essentials, and the rudeness of their
make ; others are grandiose, almost bombastic in their por-

352 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

trajal of half-forgotten splendors. Some bring the mem-
ory of the land of the dignified Arab, with his orientalism
and desert abandon ; others the careful touch of classical
origin, and of a culture that has departed or become
changed out of all its original character. In all the pieces,
however, there is a frankness that wins us, and that adds
a page to the note-book of the enthusiast, bringing us into
closer sympathy with the people who made and who used
them, who, while their thoughts seem in the nebulous clouds
to us, yet kept one foot on the earth in their childlike whole-
someness and honest intent. The fire needed for their forge
and furnace was kindled from the sparks of love and rev-
erence, — love for the supreme goodness of God and rever-
ence for his power; and their hands were guided by
thoughts of conceptions above this earth, — conceptions
of the mysteries of the hereafter.

The processional cross that used to be borne before the
sainted Serra is now at the old presidio church at Mon-
terey. (Plate 59 a.) It is of silver, with a maker's stamp,
" Ton," upon it, and is chased with a neat and appropriate
design. The Christ is of brass, evidently modern, and used
to replace the original, which was probably lost or stolen
during the dark days of the secularization period. The
reverse side of the cross (Plate 59 b) is most beautifully
chased.

There are also two pairs of altar candlesticks, beauti-
fully ornamented in olive-leaf design.

The processional cross of San Miguel stands neglected
and forgotten in the sacristy. It is of brass. The cross
itself is a foot and a half high, and is hand-carved, rather
rudely. Above the figure of the Christ are the letters in
capitals, "INR I," and an aureola around the figure.

There is a close similarity between this cross and the
one at San Buenaventura. While the design is somewhat
different, the workmanship suggests that it might have
been done by the same hand. (Plate 59 c and d.) The

Plate LV1

^^^^^Mll

ENTRANCE DOORS, SAX MIGUEL

*. ENTRANCE DOORS, SAN LUIS OIUSPO

c. PASCHAL CANDLESTICK,
SANTA BARBARA

,/. MUSIC DESK, SAN 3\ W BA1 HSTA

J 906

Plate LYIi

o. WOODEN CANDLESTICKS AM)
CRUCIFIX, SANTA INKS

■ ^

c. MISSAL STAND FOR ALTAR USE,
SANTA CLARA

b. WOODEN PROCESSIONAL CROSS,
SANTA BARBARA

./. FONT FOR HOLY WATER,
SAN MIGUEL

SILVER AND BRASS WARE 353

detail of this cross is both interesting and unusual from
the quaint use of decoration of Persian-Moorish character.
The rose centre, the floriated detail at crossing and at the
foot of the cross show much thought, while the addition of
a cross in the lower panel on the reverse side is pathetic
and exceptional.

There are two processional Candlesticks of plain silver
at Santa Ines, and a processional cross, which is finely
carved and chased. (Plate 21 c.) The base and stand-
ard are plain. (Plate 21 d.) There is a lace-like qual-
ity in the contriving of these narrow bands with rosette
centres which is very ingenious in that the ornament ties
the cross to the standard and increases its apparent length.

The processional candlesticks of the old presidio church
at Monterey were brought from Carmelo. (Plate 60 a.)
They are of superior workmanship. They afford an ex-
cellent lesson in values. Note in each one the relation of the
decorative fluting and chasing to the plain moulding at
top and to the staff. They are a strong, bold piece of
composition.

There are also six other silver candlesticks at Monterey
which came from Carmelo. (Plate 60 b.) They are em-
bossed and chased, or engraved in a manner that reminds
one somewhat of the work of the Navaho silversmiths,
though the design is a little more elaborate than any at-
tempted by these nomad Indians of the plains. These
candlesticks are of a type always associated with Spanish
metal-work and of considerable value. The turning and
the ingenious arrangement of detail, in that it is well-bal-
anced, are added elements of charm. Note the increasing
strength given by the use of upright lines and movement.

Equally beautiful, though of different style, are two

fine silver altar candlesticks, still used at San Juan Capis-

trano, one of which is shown in Plate 60 c. These are

somewhat unusual in that the shaft is interrupted by the

introduction of a square motif, rosetted. The base is

354 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

square, hollowed in plan, with corners removed. The feet
are quaint and of grand design, riveted from face. The
interest of the whole is much enhanced by this method of
simple outline. They illustrate considerable thought and
understanding of proportion.

Another style of candlestick, in brass, is shown in Plate
60 d. This is at the presidio church at Monterey. Varia-
tions of this same type are shown in the two pairs (Plate
62 a and b), which are at San Luis Obispo. The singular
delicacy of these candlesticks is well worthy of note. The
mouldings are " under cut," finely turned, and full of de-
lightful charm. The work shows considerable thought and
artistic taste. The method of attaching the feet by a sys-
tem of overlapping the lower moulding is both quaint and
curious.

With a somewhat different base are two of several at
San Juan Capistrano, shown in Plate 62 c. These have
balustered stems, turned in sections with delicate mouldings.
They stand on three-sided bases, — significant and curious,
— with splayed projecting moulding to top edge. The feet
have strangely shaped claws.

Plate 61 a shows two silver incense-burners, an incense-
holder, etc., from San Luis Obispo. The pierced portion
of these incense-burners speaks eloquently of the crafts-
man's knowledge of grotesque rococo scrolls, while the
concave and convex ornament, alternating and overlap-
ping, is curious and interesting. All this is distinctly
Spanish in character and workmanship.

Plate 61 b is a fine silver piece of beautiful workman-
ship for holding the elements used in the sacrament of
baptism. This is in use at San Luis Obispo. It is of late
design, and a singular expression of indifference to the
relation of things ; convenience, rather than artistic result,
being the thing sought. Note the ends to the arms of the
cross.

There is an incense cup of silver at Santa Ines, from

Plate LVIII

a. MOVABLE WOODEN BELFRY,
SANTA BARBARA

e. CARVED TOP OF BAPTISMAL TOM,
SAN JUAN CAP1STRANO

b. MATRACA, UK ( LM'I'I K,
SANTA BARBARA

,/. WOOD] \ ( II \ \ I'l LLER,
SANTA BARBARA

SILVER AND BRASS WARE 355

La Purfsima, and a silver incense-burner from San Miguel.
It is pleasant thus to think of the older Missions contrib-
uting to the equipment of the younger one; as of big
brothers and sisters caring for a smaller and newer member
of the family. Let us hope it was done with more willing
tenderness than was felt when the Missions of Peninsula
California were called upon to contribute for the estab-
lishments in Alta California.

Three aspergcrs must suffice to represent these vessels.
Plate 63 a shows the influence of Moorish design. The
handle is cast and turned. The base is hammered from the
back in primitive fashion, the whole portraying the quaint
workmanship of a simple people.

More ornate and elaborate in its chasing is Plate 63 b?
from San Carlos, Carmelo, and now in use at Monterey.
The handle, with its interlacing moons and ring, and the
arabesque ornament through body and base, — all show
the distinct influence of Moorish conception, though it is
clearly Spanish in execution.

That at San Juan Bautista (Plate 63 c) is beautiful and
artistic. The only ornament is a silver band, which is
worked into a simple design for a handle. This is undoubt-
edly of Moorish character, and the very unusual method
of attachment to so large and plain a body is a striking
proof of ability in design, far beyond the average. The
ring and its system of riveting is well worth the study of
both craftsman and artist. The flat lip also adds a small
note to the charm of the whole.

At San Luis Obispo is a baptismal font of hammered
copper, as shown in Plate 63 d. It is a rude and simple
piece of work, and was undoubtedly made cither there or at
one of the other Missions, as, for instance, San Fernando,
which had a great reputation for its copper work. The
stand upon which it rests is of wood, painted in a rude
design. As one looks at this piece, the blows of the hammer
can be heard, and the eyes of the worker glowing with

356 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

affection and pride. Each blow leaves its mark and tells
its own story. The overlapping seam, the big projection
of the edge, the hinging of the cover, its fastenings, — all
lend intense and appealing interest to the piece. There
are more of these copper fonts at others of the Missions,
but that of San Luis Rey has a history peculiarly its own.
After secularization the Indians stole it and sold it, and for
many years it was used for " base purposes." But ulti-
mately it was located and claimed, and is now back at San
Luis ; but its travels and experiences away from home
have so injured it that it needs considerable repairs. At
present, therefore, a temporary font is being used, with an
abalone shell as the pourer. In all Catholic churches water
is poured over the head of the child or adult to be baptized
by means of a small vessel, generally a silver shell, as
pictured elsewhere in these pages. This necessitates a font,
for the holding of the consecrated water and oil, and then
a waste bowl, over which the neophyte holds his head. In
the more elaborate fonts the two bowls are in one. At San
Luis the waste bowl is of fine soapstone, probably gained
from the Indians of Santa Catalina Island. It stands
about four feet high.

Plate LIX

rO>

a. PROCESSIONAI CROSS (FRONT),
PRESIDIO CHURCH, MONTEREY

'**>

- - X.z-^-

'.♦I

\rtk

**/

\*y**l*'

b. PROCESSIONAL CROSS (REVERSE),
PRESIDIO CHURCH, MONTEREY

"'^K

l^El ~~~I3f3i^^^.

•

H^^L.

c PROCESSIONAL CROSS (FRONT ,
SAN BUENAVENTURA

d PROCESSIONAL CROSS BEVERSE),
SAN BUENAVENTURA

THE
NEW YORK
'PUBLIC LIS

\\Astor Tilden

1905

A CHAPTER OF SAINTS 357

CHAPTER XXXIII

A CHAPTER OF SAINTS

IT is instinctive in the ordinary human being to look
up to some one above himself. Carlyle was not the
first hero-worshipper, nor is he the last. In this
matter the Catholic Church has proven herself wise in rec-
ognizing this universal propensity to select from among
her members men and women conspicuous for their blame-
less and heroic Christian lives, and to whom it believed that
Heaven had borne indubitable testimony, — sometimes by
the power to work miracles, — and raise them to the honors
of her altars by the solemn decree of canonization. Long-
fellow beautifully enunciated the principle upon which
they acted when, in his " Psalm of Life," he reminded us
that " Lives of great men all remind us we can make our
lives sublime."

It is not my purpose to expatiate upon the lives of the
saints, but, as many, otherwise interested in the old
Missions, are perhaps not so familiar with the saints, I
thought it would be well, in showing some of the pict-
ures of the wooden figures of the saints that are to be
found at the Missions, to make some brief mention of
their lives.

The Viceroy Galvez placed the first sea expedition for
the missionizing and colonization of Alta California, under
the patronage of San Jose (Saint Joseph). This saint,
as the foster father of our Lord, was necessarily the pro-
vider of all his needs, and also of those of the Virgin, his
mother. Hence he is made the patron saint of the tern-

358 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

poralities of all Institutions. There are several statues of
San Jose found in the Missions, one (Plate 43 a) being in
the relic-room at Santa Barbara.

In the sacristy at the old presidio church at Monterey,
is a rudely carved statue of the Blessed Virgin. (Plate 64
b.) Its place, in art, is among that class of figures in-
tended by the artificer for draping, as it was thus rendered
more in touch with the every-day life of the Indians it was
intended to impress. To this class also pertain the various
Child-Jesus statuettes, a typical case being the Infant
Jesus ol Prague, commonly known as " The Holy Child."
It is possio]e that this statue of Our Lady was carved by
the Indian neophytes under the direction of the padres.
Statues that were imported were generally carved through-
out and could be placed lfi position without draping. The
" Saint Clare " of the Santa Clara Mission belongs to the
former class. This statue of the j>Jonterey sacristy stands
about four feet high and wears a vei'v modern tinsel halo
and garments.

Almost every Mission has, or had, its figures of the Vir-
gin and Holy Child, and it would be a wonderful study in
expression if all of these could be gathered together for
comparative study. In Plate 20 a Our Lady i> repre-
sented crowned, as the Queen of Heaven, the Child Jt^us in
her arms. But in Plate 20 b there is a sweet, gentle, and
maternal look that wins and captivates the soul.

In Plate 44 a is a conception of the Holy Child when
he was disputing with the elders in the Temple. It i:s
neither pleasing nor artistic, and the enlarged head and'
the strained attitude make a grotesque effect rather than
the deep impression its maker doubtless intended. Yet it
never must be forgotten that all these figures were de-
signed to impress the childlike Indians and the devout, to
whom everything of this nature was too serious and solemn
to be looked at critically.

At the San Diego school (which is close to the old Mis-

Plate LX

a. PROCESSIONAL
CANDLESTICK
AT MONTEREY

4. ALTAR CANDLESTICK,
MONTEREY

T
I

c. ALTAR CANDLESTICK,
SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO

d. ALTAR CANDLESTICK,
HONTERETi

THE

NEW YORK

'PL' -;y

YAbl0r Tilrfen^

1bU0

A CHAPTER OF SAINTS 359

sion) are two small wooden figures of Christ: one in the
Garden of Gethsemane (Plate 12 a), and the other after
the scourging, when the soldiers mockingly put on him
the scarlet robe. (Plate 12 b.) The cloak is of canvas,
painted red, but so well put on that at first sight the red
canvas appears to be part and parcel of the carved wood.
The shading from one kind of material into the other
is very ingeniously done.

These statuettes are about a foot and a half high, and
have a wooden base which is so worm-eaten as to be slowly
crumbling away. It looks almost like cork, so completely
have the tiny creatures cut their way through it.

Two valued treasures of the Dominican Sisters Orphan-
age at Mission San Jose are the statues of Ecce Homo
(Plate 4) and San Buenaventura (Plate 64 a), which used
to belong to the old Mission. That of the Ecce Homo
is in the convent precincts, and a special dispensation had
to be produced ere I was permitted to photograph it. To
me it is one of the most wonderful statues in the whole of
the Missions ; the sad, tender austerity of the face, the
pain and woe thereon depicted. Only the face, hands, and
feet are carved ; the body is unshapen, so that it was neces-
sary to clothe the figure. The rich silk gown and the Fran-
ciscan girdle, therefore, are real, and were undoubtedly
put on when the statue was first made, and this accounts
for its present forlorn and dilapidated condition. It stands
about three feet high, and is on a bracket at the end of the
corridor where the young sisters sleep. Some of them are
avowedly afraid of it, for, especially in the twilight, stand-
ing there under the skylight with a full view of the whole
corridor, it is easy to imagine it some austere and stern
monk looking even into the very depths of the heart of those
who come within its ken.

The San Buenaventura is of the more ordinary type, the
dress being composed of leather moulded to the required
form, then stiffened and painted.

360 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

San Buenaventura was originally Giovanni di Fidanza.
He was born at Bagnarea in Tuscany in 1221. St.
Francis of Assisi, meeting him one day and being charmed
with the attractive power of his personality, and foreseeing
his future greatness, exclaimed " O buona ventura ! " and
this appellative — Buenaventura in Spanish (Good For-
tune in English) — clung to him. Because of his great skill
as a writer and teacher of mystic theology he was called
the seraphic doctor. He was in turn bishop, minister-gen-
eral of the Franciscan Order, and Cardinal. He died in
1274. His day is July 14.

At Santa Barbara are three figures which represent the
three archangels, Gabriel, Miguel, and Rafael. It will be
remembered that San Gabriel announced to Mary the mys-
tery of the incarnation, hence he is intimately connected
with that great dispensation. His place in christian sym-
bolism is largely determined thereby. His day is March
18. In Plate 44 b he appears, robed in vesture bedight
with shimmering stars and silver moon. Just as the ar-
rows in the talons of the American eagle on the national
shield symbolize the nation's defenders ready at their coun-
try's call, so the stars and moon of San Gabriel are worn
by him as the messenger of the Holy Virgin, as explained
in Rev. xii. 1.

San Miguel is presented in Plate 44 c. With crossed
lines on breast, and fingers pointing upwards, this statue
presents the saint as breastplated, uttering his cry to the
angelic hosts: Mi-cha-el Quis-ut-Deus — Who-as-God?
thus calling upon them to decide under whom they would
muster. His day is September 29, but there is a subsid-
iary festival of his on May 8.

Plate 44 d is of San Rafael. The fish under his feet
symbolizes him as the specially assigned heavenly guardian
of the young Tobias. (See Tobias vi. 2, 3, 4.) San Ra-
fael's day is October 24.

At Santa Barbara also is the statue of San Antonio de

Plate LXI

-J

2 2

z o

2 5

■n
■n

-J

—4

-73

-
en

THE
NEW YORK
PUBLIC I

^stor, I

Foui d
190b

A CHAPTER OF SAINTS 361

Padua (Plate 43 b). He was born in Lisbon in 1195, and
died in Padua in 1231, and was canonized in 1232. He
was a famous preacher, and a zealous Franciscan. He
is invariably represented with the Infant Jesus in his arms.
In tradition the reason of this is that his devotion was so
intense, and his love for the Blessed Babe so sincere, that
the Holy Mother, to give him a signal proof of apprecia-
tion of his devotion, yielded to the importunate look and
outstretched arms of her Child and gave the Infant into
the saint's embrace. Thus, with the ever-abiding benison
of the Child whom he had held for a time in his arms, he
went forth to more zealous and powerful service for the
honor and glory of God and the propagation of the faith.
His day is June 13. The Santa Barbara figure is singu-
larly pleasing, and the expression upon the face is of a
deeply thoughtful, spiritual, tender nature.

Of an entirely different character is the face of the St.
Anthony shown in Plate 43 c. This is at San Carlos,
Carmelo. There is neither dignity nor tenderness in this
face ; instead, a kind of weak simpering that is effeminate
and displeasing.

Plate 21 a is of St. John the Evangelist, as shown by
the book he has in his hands. Here are dignity, benignity,
and sweetness, a true and artistic portrayal of the
wondrous " Seer of Patmos."

Plate 21 b is probably of St. Stephen, the Proto-
martyr. Both this and Figure 21 a are in the collection
room at Santa Clara. The main reason of doubt as to the
identity of this statue — or, in other words, that it was
really meant to represent St. Stephen, is in the dress, which
is rather mediaeval than archaic enough to coincide with the
martyr's period — the Jerusalem of Our Lord. But the
eyes turned heavenward and the martyr's palm, taken to-
gether, make it probable that it is for St. Stephen.

Saint Louis, Bishop of Toulouse (Plate 64 c) (1274-
1297, a. d.), son of Charles II, surnamed the Lame, King

362 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

of Naples and Sicily, was canonized in 1317. His day is
August 19.

The figure within the church, which represents San
Luis, is young and fair and pleasing. He became a Fran-
ciscan in 1296, in his twenty-third year, and, as he died
four years later, he must have been one of the youngest
bishops of the church; and thus also he is a junior among
the saints.

It used to be the fashion to observe the Saint's Day at
San Luis Obispo, as elsewhere, with a special fiesta. One
observer, present in the later days of the last century, has
given us a vivid picture of this fiesta, part of which is
worth extended quoting:

" We turned from the inspection of things sacred and curious
to follow the gathering multitude through the narrow street to the
plaza where we might see the bull-baiting. . . . The small town
was alive with people. Matrons and maidens crowded the side-
walk, while their husbands, brothers and lovers, in all the brav-
ery of Mexican saddles, jangling spurs, and coiled reatas, charged
up and down the one crooked street upon their favorite mustangs
in the most reckless manner. The outer fringe of the motley
gathering was composed of curious spectators, — a fair and rather
mixed contingent composed of French, Germans, and Americans.

Undaunted by the heat and glare of the August midday, we
waited for the fight. Arrived at the place which had been
enclosed for the sport, wre found that seats had been prepared
for the ladies. The men were generally mounted, and so well
did they sit and ride that horse and rider seemed one creature.
The managers of the performance were gay and distinguishable
in red and yellow scarfs. The hum of voices in many unfamiliar
tongues disturbed the stillness, while the expectant throng waited
and simmered.

At last, after we had ceased to care for the promised ' show,'
there was an uproar of trumpets, tambourines, and voices, and
the Toro victim, with his tormentors, entered the enclosure.
The skilled horseman whose duty it was to provoke the animals
was armed with spears and barbed darts, with tiny flags attached.
These were thrown at the bull to improve his temper, and it im-

Plate LXII

M —

s -

o la

A CHAPTER OF SAINTS 363

proved with each admonitory sting. A few footmen were in the
enclosure, armed with dark-colored blankets. It was their part
to divert the maddened creature and throw the blanket over his
head in case of danger. One at a time, some twenty bulls were
brought into the corral. Some ignored the hostility of the enemy,
and others accepted the challenge and fought until exhausted."

In the account from which the foregoing was quoted,
the impression was given throughout that the bull fight
was part of the honors to the saint. A scholarly Catholic
priest at one of the old Missions protests against this idea,
asserting that " the Catholic Church never counselled, much
less introduced, bull fights. At most she simply tolerated
them as a fond mother's concession to her little ones, that
they might not deem her rule too hard."

San Juan Capistrano was born at the town of the same
name in the kingdom of Naples in 1385. He was educated
as a lawyer, became a judge, and in 1415 entered the Fran-
ciscan Order. He became noted for his austerity, his zeal
for the preservation of the true faith, and his diplomacy,
travelling extensively in Europe on business of the Pope.
He was one of the high officials of the Inquisition, and also
preached to the Crusaders while they were on their arduous
marches. With the cross in hand which he had received
from the Pope, he animated the Christian forces before
Belgrade and was present when they entered the town in
1456. He died in October of that year, and was canonized
in 1690. His day is the 23d of October. As an author
of ecclesiastical works he is also worthy of note. The figure
of San Juan (Plate 43 d) shows him with a book in his left
hand, and outstretched right hand, as if arguing or dis-
puting on some matter of importance, as he is said to have
done against the Hussites.

Plate 20 c is of Santa Lucia in an attitude of devo-
tion. Her name is borne by the range of mountains that
separates the region of San Luis Obispo from the Valley
of the Salinas.

364 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

At Santa Ines, the chief figure in the centre of the rere-
dos is that of the patron saint. She was martyred by
beheading in Rome in the year 304. Bancroft says this
occurred when Agnes was but thirteen years of age, which
agrees with the authority of Alban Butler's " Lives of the
Saints," vol. i., under January 21. Butler cites St. Am-
brose and St. Austin for thirteen.

At that age, the son of Sempronius, prefect of Rome
at the time, desired to marry her, but she answered him,
as well as all other suitors, that she had consecrated her
virginity to a heavenly spouse, who could not be be-
held by mortal eyes. Sempronius, the father, enraged at
her resolution and constancy, ruthlessly delivered her
up to profligates, all of whom, however, save one, were
so awed by coming in sight of the saint at her prayers,
that they durst not approach. But that foolish youth,
attempting to be rude to her, was instantly struck blind
from Heaven. But the good Agnes, compassionating
his misfortune, by prayer restored him to his sight and
health.

The figure at Santa Ines is certainly of a person much
older than thirteen years of age, but this is doubtless an
anachronism of art. Over four feet in height, the statue is
quite heavy, and when the kindly lay brother at the Mis-
sion aided me in lifting it from its elevated position, he
could not help commenting on its weight ; and then, as if
he had somehow said that which would be displeasing to the
dear saint, he caressed the figure with his hands and a soft
and pleading voice whispered " Santa Ines Hermosa " — ■
Beautiful Saint Agnes. No doubt the sweet-spirited saint
heard and forgave him for any pain his recognition of her
great weight may have given her. In her right hand she
holds what evidently represents the feather palm symbol of
martyrdom, a feather being the best temporary substitute
at hand. In her left hand she bears a lamb, symbol of her
name, Agnes in Latin, and also of her virginal purity and

A CHAPTER OF SAINTS 365

innocence. These are added to the figure (Plate 20 d)
when it occupies its elevated position. The feast of St.
Agnes occurs on January 21. Both the Roman Breviary
and the Bollandists' " Acte Sanctorum " confirm thirteen
as the age at which she was martyred.

San Francisco Solano, the missionary to the Indians, was
born at Monsilia, in Andalucfa, March, 1549. In his
youth he studied with the Jesuits, but when twenty years
of age he joined the Franciscan Order in his native town.
He requested to be sent as a missionary to Peru. A fear-
ful storm arose, and the vessel was driven upon a rocky
shore. The captain wanted Francis to come into his life-
boat, but the devoted priest refused to leave some pagans
who were on board. He instructed them as well as circum-
stances would allow, baptized them hurriedly in the midst
of the storm, and thus prepared them for death. How-
ever, by the efficacy of his prayers they weathered the
storm and were saved. Francis labored long thereafter
for the aborigines in Peru, until his death which occurred
July 14, 1610. He was canonized in 1726. His festival
takes place July 24. An extended life of St. Francis
Solano is given in " The Bollandists," vol. 5, of the month
of July, under July 24.

San Carlos Borromeo was the son of Gilbert Borromeo,
Count of Arona. He was a nephew of Pope Pius IV, and
was born at Arona, near Milan, Italy, in 1538 ; was ap-
pointed Archbishop of Milan in 1560, and not long after
created Cardinal. He died in 1584, and was canonized in
1610 by Pope Paul V. His day is November 4.

San Diego de Alcala (St. James of Alcala) was an An-
dalusian Franciscan, who lived from 1400 to 1463, and was
canonized in 1588 by Pope Sixtus V, for his saintly and
heroic life, and confirmed by miracles wrought through
him before and after his death. His day is November 13.
The saint's surname, Alcal.i, was seldom attached to the
name of his Mission in popular usage.

366 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

Santa Barbara was the daughter of Dioscorus, who
lived in Asia Minor. Being an idolater and hating the
new religion, he gave his daughter, who had become a
Christian, to the torture, and then beheaded her with his
own hand, angered at her steady adherence to the new
faith. The unfortunate man soon paid the penalty of his
cruel act for immediately thereafter he was struck by
lightning. The protection of Santa Barbara, therefore, is
often invoked by sailors as a safeguard against the fury
of lightning during the storms to which they are so fre-
quently exposed on the high seas. Santa Barbara's day is
December 4. Her martyrdom occurred at Nicomedia,
about the year 240.

Of St. Francis (San Francisco de Asis) one would enjoy
writing a whole chapter. He is worthy of note, not only
because he founded the religious order which bears his
name, but also because, as it were, he has lived his beautiful
life over and over again in the lives of the many great and
worthy men who have been members of his illustrious order.
Francis was born at Assisi, in Umbria, Italy, in 1182, in
a stable, his pious mother having thus, by divine monition,
secured a safe delivery. On his right shoulder was a birth
mark of a cross, which the faithful deem was placed there
by an angel at the time of his birth.

After a somewhat vain and frivolous life, which, however,
never found vent in unrestrained waywardness, he was
taken prisoner in a local war. The captivity which followed,
and a prolonged illness, tempered and subdued his spirit to
a better mood, and it was then that his future vocation was
revealed to him in a dream. Thus divinely enlightened and
changed to a better self, he began to carry out his formed
plan of a more worthy and christian life. His father, on
this account, endeavored to have him adjudged insane.
He on his part, gladly gave up all claim to the paternal
inheritance, and, retiring to the convent of Portiuncula,
near Assisi, laid the foundations for hiaf great order,

A CHAPTER OF SAINTS 367

which, approved by the Pope in 1209, 1210, and 1221, in
a few years numbered many thousands of members.

In 1219, Francis, accompanied by Blessed Illuminatus
of Reate, and other companions from Ancona, set sail for
Egypt and there joined, as missionaries, the Sixth Cru-
sade, which was then besieging Babylon on the Nile, the
modern Grand Cairo. Fearless in the cause of Christ,
Francis passed into the Saracen camp to preach the gospel
to the heathen his brethren were fighting ; and the Sultan,
admiring his intrepid zeal, would not allow him to be in-
jured. Many miracles are recorded as having been worked
by and through him. But by far the most remarkable was
the reception, while in a state of ecstasy, through the me-
dium of an angel, of the stigmata of Jesus, — the sacred
wounds of the nails and spear. These are painted, it will be
remembered, upon the mortuary chapel at San Luis Rey.
Though St. Francis was in feeble health after he returned
from Egypt, he still kept on preaching until his death on
October 4, 1226. Two years later, 1228, he was canonized
by Pope Gregory IX. His festival is celebrated Octo-
ber 4.

The 16th of April is the day of the profession of St.
Francis ; so on that day all members of the order renew their
vows. It is also a day celebrated in the Franciscan Order,
in honor of the Holy Arcnangel San Rafael, as the patron
of travellers, though his principal day is October 24.

Santa Clara was a native of the same town as St.
Francis. She was born in 1193, of noble parents, and
lived the ordinary frivolous life of her class, until, when
about 19 years old, she was converted by the example and
preaching of St. Francis. Retiring at once to the con-
vent of Portiuncula, whither her example drew both. her
mother and her sister, she soon became as famous for
her austerity and piety as before she had been for her wit
and beauty. In conjunction with her saintly neighbor, she
founded the second order of St. Francis, namely a sister-

368 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

hood bearing her name, and often known as " The Poor
Clares." She died in 1253 and was canonized in 1255.
Her day is the 12th of August.

The first order of St. Francis is that to which all the
Franciscan priests belong. They take the vow of perpetual
chastity, poverty, and obedience, and are banded together
in brotherhoods.

The second order is that of St. Clare (Santa Clara) and
is of women who take the same vows as the men, and are
banded together in sisterhoods.

The third order is of laymen, living in the world and
carrying on their regular work, but who have taken the
same vows as the priests.

Neustra Senora de la Soledad — Our Lady of Solitude

— is the name given to the Holy Virgin in her period of
solitude. While Christ was going through the stages of
the Passion she was " Our Lady of Sorrows " — Dolores

— but during the three days from Friday until the Sun-
day morning of the resurrection, when he arose from the
dead, she was in " loneliness," and so she became Our Lady
of Solitude. La Soledad Mission is named for her, and her
day, under this special title, is commemorated in some
places on Good Friday in Holy Week, and in others on
Holy Saturday of the same week.

Roman Catholics also have Holy Days dedicated to per-
sonages and mysteries, and also to sacred objects as well
as to saints. Among such festivals, as has been shown,
are the days of the Holy Archangels Gabriel, Miguel
(Michael) and Rafael. Another sacred day is that of
December 8, dedicated to the holy mystery of the Immacu-
late Conception — La Purfsima Concepcion — and a Mis-
sion bearing this name was established in the California
chain.

Belonging to this same class are the two festivals in
honor of the Santa Cruz — the Holy Cross — of Christ,
for which another Mission was named. One of these festi-

A CHAPTER OF SAINTS 369

vals, the " Invention," or the finding of the Cross by t"he
Empress Sant Helena, mother of Constantine the Great,
at Jerusalem, in the year 326, occurs on May 3, and the
other, that of the " Exaltation " of the Holy Cross, on
September 14.

San Juan Bautista — St. John Baptist — scarcely
needs any comment, his history in the New Testament be-
ing so well known. His day is June 24.

San Fernando, Rey de Espagna, — St. Ferdinand was
the third king of Spain of that name. He reigned from
1217 to 1252, and under his reign the crowns of Castile
and Leon were united. He was canonized in 1671 by Pope
Clement X. His day is May 30.

Another king is Saint Louis IX of France, whose name,
San Luis Rey, is given to the noble pile second in the Mis-
sion chain. San Luis reigned from 1226 to 1270, and
earned his reputation for piety both at home and abroad
in the Crusades. He was canonized by Pope Boniface
VIII, in 1297, in the reign of his grandson, Philip the
Fair. His day is August 25.

370 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

CHAPTER XXXIV

THE PIOUS FUND OF CALIFORNIA' i

IT is singular how hidden things come to light.
Nothing more clearly exemplifies this than the history
of the " Pious Fund " of California. The personage
who brought the history of this fund to light is John T.
Doyle, a fine old American gentleman, now residing at
Menlo Park, Cal. It was a personal joy when he kindly
consented to outline the story of the original founding of
the fund ; its various vicissitudes up to its confiscation by
Santa Anna, the Mexican dictator ; the modern discovery
of the claim the Catholic Church of California had upon it ;
the presentation of that claim ; the various obstacles met in
furthering it ; the award by Sir Edward Thornton, the
umpire appointed to decide the case ; the payment of over
$900,000 by Mexico in consequence of that award. Then
the failure of Mexico to pay the annual instalments of in-
terest implied in that award ; the various efforts made to
secure diplomatic action upon it in Mexico by our State
department ; the final submission of the case to the Hague
tribunal through the efforts of Secretary John Hay ; and
the final award. Here, indeed, was history at first hand.

Though I should much like to present the whole story
in extenso the limits of this book will prevent more than a
brief synopsis.

That such a fund existed was well known generally to
many old Californians in the early days of American occu-
pation of the Golden State, and in 1851 the State Senate
endeavored to find out something definite about it.

These legislators, however, were ignorant of the exist-

Plate LXI11

a. ASPERGER OF MOORISH DESIGN

e. ASPERGER AT SAN JUAN BAUTISTA

b. ASPERGER AT Mu.VIT.KKY

,/. FONT A'l SAN LUIS OBISPO

THE PIOUS FUND 371

encc of Patau's and Gigedo's and Ramirez's reports, and
of the letters and reports of Galvcz, all of which later re-
search has made familiar to all students. The result of
their ignorance was a discouraging report, though there
seemed to be no doubt as to the existence of the fund.

Late in 1853 Mr. Doyle was associated with Hon. Eu-
gene Casserly in prosecuting before the U. S. Land Com-
mission a petition of the Rt. Rev. Joseph A. Alemany,
Bishop of Monterey, for the confirmation of the title of
the Catholic Church of California to the Church edifices,
cemeteries, Mission buildings, orchards, vineyards, etc., of
the old Missions. Now I let Mr. Doyle tell his own story:

" One day he brought to me a small package of papers he had
found in one of the church's safes, saying that they appeared to
relate to the missing Pious Fund. He desired me to look them
over carefully and see if there was any justification or basis for a
claim against the United States for the recovery of any of that
fund.

" The papers turned out to be correspondence in a cramped,
crabbed hand on flimsy paper and considerably dilapidated,
being fastened together, woman fashion, with a needle and
thread. On careful examination I found them to be corres-
pondence between Don Pedro Ramirez, the commissioner who
held the funds in trust at the time they were confiscated by the
government. He was evidently a conservative and business-like
man, for he had made out a complete list of all the property and
funds transferred, and had required a receipt from the govern-
ment official to whom he relinquished his charge. These papers
led me to give the Bishop my opinion that there was no claim
against the United States, but that there might be some against
Mexico.

"The matter then dropped. In 1857, in April, I had pur-
chased my steamer ticket for New York. I was going back
East, indeed had about made up my mind to leave California for
good, when the Archbishop, in company with Bishop Amat,
called on me and asked if I would undertake the case against
the Mexican government.

" I consulted with my partner, Eugene Casserly, and gave

372 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

him an outline of the case and said I was willing if he was, and
that if, after due consideration, he thought it well to go ahead,
he might make the suggested contract and sign my name to it.

"This was eventually done. In the meantime I went East
and remained there five years. As soon as I learned of the
signing of the contract I began to read everything on Mexican
Mission history I could lay my hand on in order to find out what
I could as to the founding of the fund, what it originally con-
sisted of, how it was used, when and how it was diverted, etc.,
and it was astonishing what I did find. A little here, and little
there, — one thing suggesting another, one clue leading to a
further and more important one, I soon gathered a good deal.

" Once on the right track I followed its history until I had it
clear enough to lay before any responsible tribunal. I found
that it was owing to the endeavors of the Jesuit padres Kino and
Salvatierra, to establish missions in Lower California that the
fund was contributed by the faithful. By means of this fund
the missions were established and largely supported. When,
after many years of administration the Jesuits were inhumanly
expelled from all the provinces of Spain, the missions in Lower
California were placed under the control of the Franciscans, and
the Spanish king's Visitador General, Galvez, arranged with the
new president of the missions, Junipero Serra, to establish new
missions in Alta or Upper California. For that purpose he drew
largely on the Pious Fund. On February 12, 1772, Padre Fran-
cisco Palou reported to the Superior of the Convent San Fer-
nando in the city of Mexico, Fray Juan Roman de Mora, the
financial status of the Pious Fund as follows :

" Copy of the pious works founded by the different individuals for the
purpose of the spiritual conquest of the Californias :

Year

1698. Don Juan Caballero founded the first mission, and for this

purpose gave $10,000

1699. the same founded the second 10,000

1700. Don Nicolas Artega founded the third, and furnished the

same amount 10,000

1702. different individuals through Father Jose Vidal, Jesuit,

the fourth 7,000

1704. the Marquis de Villapuente founded the fifth in the sum of 10,000

1709. the same founded the sixth in 10,000

1713. the same founded the seventh in 10,000

THE riOUS FUND 373

Yeah

1718. His Excellency, Don Juan Ruiz de Velasco founded the

eighth in $10,000

1719. The Marquis de Villapuente founded the ninth in . . . 10,000
17:25. the Jesuit, Father Juan Maria Luyando, founded the

tenth in 10,000

1731. Dona Maria Rosa de la Pefia donated to one of the missions

of Villapuente 10,000

1746. the Marquis de Villapuente founded the eleventh in . . 10,000

1747. The Most Excellent Dona Maria de Boya, Duchess of

Gaudia, instituted the missions of California as her

heirs, but they have only received 62,000

Total of donations $179,000

Balances found at the time of the Expulsion of the Jesuits:
In cash found in the Atty Genl's office of California at

the expulsion $92,000.00

Value of merchandise found in the same office .... 27,255.75
Value of merchandise in warehouse of Loretto .... 79,377.37$
Total balances $199,733.12$

Loans made by the Attorney General's office of California of the capitals
of said missions as appears by the corresponding instruments —

To the College of San Idlefonso in city of Puebla, at 3$

per cent $22,000

To the College of San Ignacio in the city of Puebla, at 4

per cent 5,000

To the College of San Pedro and San Pablo in the city of

Mexico without int 29,000

To the College of San Idlefonso in the city of Puebla at 3

per cent 23,000

To the College of San Geronimo in the city of Mexico, at 3

per cent 38,500

To the College of San Idlefonso in the city of Puebla,] at 3

per cent 9,000

Total loans $126,600

Recapitulation :

Total of donations $179,000.00

Total of balances on hand 199,033. 12$

Total of loans 126,600.00

Grand total $504,633.12$

«•

■ This report was made on account of another royal order to
the effect that the Dominicans were to take charge of one-half
of the missions formerly controlled by the Jesuits. Accordingly
the Franciscans and Dominicans made an agreement by which
the latter were to assume charge of the missions of Lower Cali-

374 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

fornia, and the Franciscans proceeded to the establishment of
new ones in Alta California. The income and product of the
Pious Fund was thereafter appropriated to the missions of both
orders.

" In 1793, April 12, the great viceroy, Gigedo, reported upon
the Funds and pays a high tribute to the fidelity with which the
Jesuits administered them. He says : ' After they were man-
aged by outsiders they began to decrease. Viceroy Flores
[Gigedo's predecessor] had placed them in the hands of the two
magistrates of the royal treasury, but this measure far from pro-
ducing any good, was fast- precipitating the funds to utter ruin,
and that they could be saved only by an active, intelligent, and
zealous general manager, who should frequently inspect the
estates and be capable of developing their resources and dis-
posing at a fair price of the products ; and who also should keep
watch over the conduct of the subaltern administrators.' He
also reported that : ' The landed properties of the special funds
are valued at $527,500 ; its capitals loaned out on interest amount
to $188,000; therefore the total is the large sum of $715,500,
whose yearly interest at the rate of five per cent, should be
$35,575. The missionaries receive every year a little above
$22,000; consequently a balance should remain of $12,000 to
$13,000 to be used for the establishment of new missions,
traveling expenses and transportation of the missionaries by
land and water.' Gigedo also clearly avows that the Pious
Fund was collected by the priests.

" These missions were founded and maintained at the expense
of the capitals which the zeal and apostolic labors of the afore-
mentioned fathers of the Society of Jesus had acquired for the
purpose of effecting the spiritual conquest of the California In-
dians. The principal benefactors and founders of these special
funds were the Marquis de Villapuente and the Marchioness
de las Torres de Rada."

Of the establishment of the California Missions by
Serra, all detail may be left out of Mr. Doyle's narrative.
The following is his history of the fund.

" After Mexico declared her independence of Spain, the fund
was taken in trust by the new government and when in 1836,
Sept. 19, it passed an act attaching an endowment of $6,000 per

Plate LA IV

i r-

r =

THE
NEW YORK
PUBLI

; Aslor

THE PIOUS FUND 375

year to a new bishopric, which it prayed the Holy Father to
establish for Upper and Lower California, it also conceded to
the new bishop when appointed, and his successors, the admin-
istration and disposal of the Pious Fund. Accordingly Garcia
Diego was made bishop and the Fund was administered by him,
until Feb. 8, 184-2, Santa Anna, then President of the Republic
of Mexico, withdrew the management from the bishop, and on
Oct. 24 of the same year ordered the property to be sold, the
proceeds turned into the public treasury, from which he pledged
to pay to the church annually the sum of six per cent of the
sum so contributed.

" In accordance with this decree the property was sold for a
sum approximating two millions of dollars. When, by the treaty
of Guadalupe Hidalgo, Upper California became a part of the
United States of America the interest on this fund still inhered
to the church in Upper California, and, inasmuch as what arrears
were due up to the time of that treaty wei'e due to the Catholic
Church of California as a Mexican province, and, therefore, not
subject to the interference of the United States, after that
treaty they were due to the Church of California as a part of the
United States and, therefore, were eminently subject to such
interference.

"Here you have practically the whole of my case and its
argument for the Catholic Church in all the subsequent pro-
ceedings.

"In 1859 I presented the matter to the Hon. Lewis Cass,
then Secretary of State, requesting the interposition of the
United States to aid my clients in obtaining justice from Mexico,
and as the object was rather to put the claim on file in the de-
partment than the expectation of any immediate result, I made
my claim in very general terms, not undertaking to define what
specific redress was asked for. Mr. Cass rather thought the
claim released by the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, and I prom-
ised to submit to him at a future time an argument to show that
was not so. Thus the case stood open until 1870. In the
meantime I continued to read every Mexican publication that
I could obtain until I had at last found out pretty much all
about the Pious Fund, and was enabled to write its history as
fully as needed for the instruction of any tribunal that might be
called on to pass on our claim.

376 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

In 1863 circumstances again called me to California where I
resumed practice. In 1868 Mr. Casserly was elected to the
Senate and took his seat in that body March 4th, 1869. Down
to that time I had been accustomed at the close of each session
to look through the treaties published with the acts of Congress
for any possible claims convention with Mexico, but on the elec-
tion of my associate to the Senate my vigilance relaxed, and
the convention of 1868 was concluded and commissioners under
it were appointed without my knowledge. My associate, how-
ever, was retained in some cases before the commission, and in
them engaged the assistance of Mr. Nathaniel Wilson, then
recently admitted to the bar in Washington. He took no action
in the Pious Fund case, for which reason I am led to believe
that he had forgotten all about our retainer in it.

"And now here occurs a remarkable event. On Sunday,
March 27, 1870, I picked up a New York paper and accidentally
saw a paragraph to the effect that Wednesday, March 30, would
be the last day that claims could be presented before the Am-
erican and Mexican Commission then sitting in Washington.
It gave me quite a shock ! What commission ? I did not even
know that a commission had been appointed. I was here at
Menlo Park and could get no conveyance to take me to San
Francisco, so had to wait impatiently until Monday. As soon as
I arrived I hunted up a copy of the Convention of July 4, 1868,
between the two governments, and saw that, according to its
terms, a demand for the restoration of the fund as a whole could
never be maintained. The claim must be framed otherwise.
Both my clients were away in Europe ; there was no one to
consult with on this new phase of the case, and I had to decide
my course on my own responsibility.

" Many complications arose from my associate in Washington,
— who had not given an iota of the time to the study of the
case that I had, — altering one of the chief points, indeed the
main one, of my pleading not only without consulting, but
actually without apprising me. But even with these complica-
tions the cause was so clear that when it finally came to the
umpire — owing to the differences in opinion of the commission-
ers — he awarded us finally $904,070 in Mexican gold dollars.
This sum was duly paid by Mexico in accordance with the terms of
the convention. This may be called the end of the first battle.

THE PIOUS FUND 377

"In 18S2, 188.3 and 1884 Archbishop Alemany informed me
that, while this award had been paid, Mexico had avoided the
payment of any further annual interest, which this first award
clearly implied as a perpetual charge. He asked me to under-
take the case again and press it to a conclusion, but owing to a
variety of causes practically over twenty years elapsed and
nothing was done except in a diplomatic way to seek the en-
forcement of payment, and only slight progress was made ;
enough, however, to keep the question alive between the two
countries. Then came the foundation of the Hague tribunal,
and here, at once, I saw a chance for its final adjudication. I
proposed to the Archbishop that we submit the case to that tri-
bunal. He agreed. I wrote to Secretary Hay, and it must be
confessed that his exceeding cleverness in presenting the mat-
ter won us that long deferred interest. He got the Mexican
government to agree to a submission of the case and that
neither Mexicans nor Americans should be on the jury. That
one clause satisfied me that we should win. I was absolutely
certain that no jury of impartial outsiders but would decide in
our favor.

" As you know, the case was formally presented. The arbi-
trators named by the United States were Sir Edward Fry of
England and Professor F. de Martens of Russia. Those nomi-
nated by Mexico were Messrs. J. M. C. Asser and F. de Savornin
Lohman, both of Holland, and these gentlemen promptly agreed
on Professor Henry Matzen of Denmark as their President and
Umpire. The case on the part of Mexico was managed by
Sefior Don Emilio Pardo, an eminent jurisconsult of the Mexican
capital, who was accredited to Her Majesty the Queen of Hol-
land as Minister Plenipotentiary of his country. He associated
with himself as counsel Messrs. Beerwaert and Delacroix, local
counsel of distinction, and Archbishop Riordan retained Mr.
Descamps, also of the local bar.

" The court with little delay, and unanimously, decided that
the whole controversy was controlled by the former decision,
under the governing principle of res judica, and consequently
awarded us our whole demand of $1,420,682.67, being thirty-
three annual instalments of interest of $43,050.99 then in arrear,
and adjudged that the last named amount be paid to us annually
thereafter in perpetuity."

378 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

In a letter received from the Coadjutor Archbishop of
San Francisco, George Montgomery, he reports that the
annuity has thus far been paid regularly. " This payment,
as the others were, is made to the Roman Catholic Arch-
bishop of San Francisco, acting for the other bishops, by
power of attorney. The same use is made of these moneys
as of the others, in accordance with the purposes for which
the original donors made the bequests."

THE CAMINO REAL 379

CHAPTER XXXV

THE CAMINO EEAL

IT is generally taken for granted that the original plan
of Padre Serra was to establish a chain of Missions in
California a day's journey apart. The number of the
Indians and their location seemed peculiarly adapted to
this plan. In travelling to and fro, prior to, and during
their establishment, a trail, and eventually a road, would
necessarily be made. It is claimed by Don Antonio Coronel
that this road or highway became the " recognized high-
way of official travel," and that it commenced in Guate-
mala and ended first in Monterey ; then, as the Missions
reached San Francisco and Sonoma, it was extended
thither. He says : " it was called either the Camino del
Rey or the Camino Real in our Spanish," which being in-
terpreted is " the King's Highway." It was never much
of a road from the road-maker's standpoint, but to the
historian, the romancer, the artist, it is one of the most
fascinating highways in the world. It did not always stick
exactly to the same narrow boundaries ; when a tree fell
across it, a slight detour was made; when rain fell and
made a large puddle it branched off to right or left. Occa-
sionally some one discovered a " short cut," and then a new
road took the place of the old ; but, in the main, it remained
a king's highway, connecting the Missions one with an-
other, and linking together the little picturesque settle-
ments of Spanish and Indians that clustered around them.
When the Americans came it was necessarily their main
line of travel ; and though slight changes have been made in
it by the rectangular system of denoting farm and other

380 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

boundaries, here and there compelling it to a more strait
and rigid plan, it is still the Camino Real of the Mission
days.

And what a history it has had. Though less than a
century and a half old, what changes it has seen. First
the crude trail, doubtless, of the original aborigines, who,
in their skin costumes, with their simple gifts slung by
means of rawhide bands from their foreheads went on
errands of friendship to neighboring rancherias. Now and
again a band of deer or antelope would course upon it,
having discovered that they were in danger from hunters.
Occasionally a mountain lion, a black bear, or a grizzly,
and often a coyote, a fox, a badger, or that beautifully
furred small animal with the name that suggests every-
thing but agreeableness in its odor, would stroll leisurely
on this man-made path, each and all sniffing significantly
at the footprints of the upright animal whose " scent " so
often meant danger to them.

Then came the padres, with their military escort. Aye,
but prior to that, perhaps, in spots, this that was ulti-
mately to be the Camino Real had felt the pressure of the
feet of Cabrillo or Viscaino or Drake or Cavendish, — so
that these new feet were not the first of white men to walk
upon its length. But they soon became the most familiar.
Serra, Crespi, Portola, Fages, Rivera, — what a list of
names of the earliest travellers, the real explorers who
gave our California to the world.

Then some of those earlier scenes ; how they come back.
After San Diego and San Carlos and San Antonio had
been established, and Fages had been appointed governor,
and his autocratic conduct had led to two desertions from
the San Diego garrison, one of ten, the other of five men,
this road saw Fages follow the five, and saw them in-
trenched, and heard their declaration that they would never
be taken back alive. What did that mean? Had tyranny
already begun in this to-be-land-of-the-f ree ? Then it saw

Plate LXX

a. REAR OF SAN GABRIEL MISSION

*. CORIUDHlIs AT SAN I ER» Wl'ii

THE CAMINO REAL 381

the good Father Dumctz come sadly yet eagerly along,
pleading with both governor and deserters that there be
no bloodshed, and finally prevailing upon the five to return,
after Fages had promised not to punish them.

From the beginning of its real history, over this King's
Highway, again and again, back and forth, happily or
wearily, according as his extensive plans prospered or
dragged, walked the sainted Serra. Here he sang aloud;
there he sank upon his knees in prayer ; yonder he wept in
anguish as the news of some delay in his beloved work, or
some Indian outburst reached him.

This road saw the coming of the colonists from Mexico ;
heard their openly expressed hopes, fears, expectations.
As the years rolled on it heard the squeak and rattle of
the lumbering carreta as elderly senoras rode, accom-
panied by gay caballeros clad in zarape and sombrero,
riding on saddles of price, carved in exquisite design and
skilfully inlaid with silver. And the senoritas, did they
stay at home? No! the historic road saw them ride also,
always, of course, accompanied by their duennas, but by
no means the less happy and joyous, though perhaps some-
what less exuberant.

Indeed to know the history of the Camino Real is to
know the history of the California of those days. Don
Antonio Coronel might well say he had a separate legend
of this highway for every day in the year.

For several years Augustus Wey (Miss Picher of Pasa-
dena) has agitated the rehabilitation of the Camino Real.
With far-sighted wisdom she saw that it was not only good
from the historic and picturesque standpoint, but good
from the business standpoint. The thousands of visitors
that come to California annually are ready to be interested
in everything that really appeals to their intelligent sym-
pathies ; and the more foci of interests there are, the more
they enjoy their visits to the State. Later, Charles F.
Lummis, in " Out West," intelligently presenting the

382 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

claims of the Missions, saw that this was an allied project,
and he has earnestly and consistently worked for it ever
since. At last the automobilists and politicians were in-
terested, and then the matter was more widely agitated.
It became a State affair. An association was effected in
1904, with efficient officers and a State secretary, to push
the organizing of local branches of the State C amino Real
Association, so that a definite plan could be presented to
the legislature. This was done ; the act passed, and it
would have become law had the funds in the State treasury
justified the expenditure called for.

The State and local organizations are still in existence,
and are working more or less energetically, so that it is
reasonable to hope that ultimately its aims will be crowned
with complete success, to the honor, comfort, and pleasure
both of the citizens of the State and its visitors.

PRESERVATION OF MISSIONS 383

CHAPTER XXXVI

THE PRESERVATION OF THE MISSIONS

THERE is a vast difference between " restoration "
and " preservation " of architectural landmarks.
I do not know whether William Morris ever used
the word " accursed " when speaking of restorations. He
certainly felt it. It is not given to the builders of one gener-'
ation to " restore " the architecture of another generation.
The conditions, the feeling, the atmosphere (mental, not
physical) are changed. Buildings that come down to us
out of the past, if ever worth anything, are worth preserv-
ing,— keeping, just as they are, as a valuable heirloom
that is not ours except to look at, use, and pass on to our
posterity. Our science is daily broadening. The theory of
evolution has materially enlarged our horizon. It opened
a new door, leading into vast new fields for thought ; and
in one of these fields we found that all work that man has
done helps the workers of to-day better to understand their
own work. Therefore we have awakened senses as to our
duty to the historic remains of the past and the rights and
claims of those who will come after us to them.

The first serious attempt to do anything towards the
preservation of the California Missions was made by Miss
Tessa L. Kelso, the librarian of the Los Angeles City
Library, in about 1888. She organized an " Association
for the Preservation of the Missions," and by stereopticon
exhibitions showing the direful condition of the buildings,
excursions to them, exhibitions of photographs at the
library and elsewhere, the writing of articles, etc., paved
the way for the later more successful work of the Land-

384 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

marks Club. Nearly $100 was handed over to the younger
by the older association.

In December, 1895, Charles F. Lummis, the editor of
" The Land of Sunshine " (now " Out West "), published,
in his magazine, a forceful appeal for the preservation of
the Missions. Among other things, he said :

" There are in this State twenty-one of the old Spanish Mis-
sions, besides their several branch chapels. Seven missions
and a few chapels are in Southern California ; and these are not
only the oldest, but historically and architecturally the most in-
teresting. A few are re-occupied and utilized for places of
worship. The others have been of necessity practically aban-
doned since the secularization. They are not vital to the Cath-
olic church, now ; but they are everything to us, whether we
have souls or pockets. They are all falling to decay ; partly by
age, partly through vandalism and neglect. When the roof
goes, our swift winter rains do the rest. In ten years from
now — unless our intelligence shall awaken at once — there
will remain of these noble piles nothing but a few indetermin-
able heaps of adobe.

" Now there is not in the civilized world another country so
barbarous that this would be permitted. In poor old Spain the
very stables of these deserted churches would be scrupulously
preserved. In despised Italy they would be guarded as we
guard our fortunes. In hateful England, heaven pity the van-
dal that should move one stone from another in them. In im-
moral France, there is at least morality enough to hold sacred
the ai-tistic and the venerable. It is only in the Only Country
in the World that such precious things are despised and neglected
and left to be looted by the storm and the tourist.

" This is a new community, and many things are thus far for-
given its youth ; but there will never be pardon if we let this
sin go further. We shall deserve and shall have the contempt
of all thoughtful people if we suffer our noble missions to fall."

In the following January it was announced that the
Landmarks Club was incorporated, and that, briefly stated,
its objects were:

PRESERVATION OF MISSIONS 385

" The immediate and permanent preservation from decay and
vandalism, of the venerable Missions of Southern California ; the
safeguard and conservation of any other historic monuments,
relics, or landmarks in this section ; and a general promotion of
proper care of all such matters. It will be a function of the
club to secure a permanent fund to be applied exclusively to
these objects."

The president of the club is Charles F. Lummis ; vice-
president, Margaret Collier Graham ; secretary, Arthur
B. Benton, 114 N. Spring St., Los Angeles; treasurer,
J. G. Mossin ; corresponding secretary, Mrs. M. E. Stil-
son, 812 Kensington Rd., Los Angeles. The annual
membership fee is $1.00.

In February it was announced that a lease had been
secured of San Juan Capistrano, and work undertaken
under the direction of Mr. R. Egan, who for many years
had made many personal efforts towards its preservation.
4i The lease covers all the buildings which are in need of
care, with the necessary ground and rights of way, and a
preference to the club as purchaser in case the property
should ever be for sale."

In November the club reported that it had replaced the
broken roof of sycamore poles on the old adobe church,
built by Serra, at San Juan Capistrano, with Oregon pine
and the original tiles, so that it is now likely to be saved
for many years. Asphaltum was also placed on the roof
of the four hundred feet of cloisters. Excellent work had
also been done on the kitchen, — its stone vault secured
with iron tie rods, and re-roofed. " Through it was the
main entrance to the patio, or inner court. This was
broken down, but has been substantially repaired."

Further work has been done, as funds have come in, and
now San Juan is reasonably well preserved against the
ravages of the weather.

San Fernando was next attacked ; and on September 9,
1897, the Landmarks Club and its friends enjoyed an

386 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

excursion thither, not only to commemorate the centennial
of the founding of the Mission, but also to personally
inspect the method followed by the club in restor-
ing these historic memorials ; and its president, writing
afterwards, called attention to an important fact. He
said:

" One of the features of the outing (and significant as show-
ing what sort of a valley the Franciscan frailes picked out a
hundred years ago) was the fact that many of the excursionists
sat down to lunch on the enormous pile of sacked wheat, cov-
ered with straw, which is now in front of the Mission — a pile
worth $57,000, from the harvest of the Porter Land and Water
Co. It is not everywhere that one finds such a table."

In November a temporary and protecting shake roof was
placed over the adobe church, but a severe storm wrecked
it, and it had to be replaced. The exterior of the old mon-
astery has been put in excellent condition, and further work
is being projected.

In 1899 brick foundations were put under some of the
ruined walls at San Diego, and cement cappings on the
wasting ones. About $500 was expended; and it is safe
to say that had not this been done, nothing but a pile of
melting adobe would now remain of this, the most inter-
esting, historically, of all the Missions, on account of its
priority.

At San Luis Rey the club has given some aid to Father
O'Keefe in his heroic efforts.

At Pala the chapel, sacristy, and priest's room have been
re-roofed, the rafters being pine poles hauled from the
slopes and summit of Mount Palomar. Of the tiles used,
eight hundred were donated by two ladies of the Agua
Tibia Ranch, which once protected the buildings at San
Luis Rey, and which were hauled away by the Indian
founder of the ranch, Manuel Cota, some sixty years be-
fore, when the secularization decree led to the abandonment

Plate L.WI

'X!

M =>

THE
NEV

'PUBLIC L t

Astar, i

IfaOo

PRESERVATION OF MISSIONS 387

of that glorious Mission. Others were purchased from
scattered ranches, whither they were brought at the same
time of spoliation.

The interior of the chapel was also " cleaned and re-
habilitated," to use the words of the president of the Land-
marks Club, " with great care not to disturb any of the
old Indian frescos."

It was, therefore, all the more unfortunate that an alien
and unsympathetic priest should not have been warned that
any attempt to interfere with them on his part would be
resented. Knowing nothing of their history, he presump-
tuously swept them out of existence, without consulting
any one, by covering them with whitewash.

It should not be forgotten that there are no salaries in
the Landmarks Club. All the work is done for love, and
to preserve these memorials for the future. While there
may be criticism as to the work done, and the methods fol-
lowed, — such criticism is to be expected in the very nature
of things, — there can be no question as to the great value
of the work accomplished as a whole ; and Mr. Lummis is
deserving of, and should receive, the grateful thanks of
the whole nation for the work that has been accomplished
under his direction.

In the fall of 1902 the California Historical Landmarks
League was organized in San Francisco with the following
officers : president, Joseph R. Knowland ; vice-presidents,
S. W. Holladay, Mrs. Geo. Law Smith ; corresponding sec-
retary, Mrs. Laura Bride Powers, 421 Larkin St., San
Francisco ; assistant secretary, Mrs. J. J. Donnelly ; finan-
cial secretary, James A. Devoto ; treasurer, Henry S.
Martin.

The "Native Sons of the Golden West" contributed
$1100 to the treasury of the new organization, and the
" Native Daughters of the Golden West " have also given
material aid. Mr. W. R. Hearst, of the San Francisco
" Examiner," has thrown the influence of his paper towards

388 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

the movement, and as a result of these united efforts the old
Mission building of San Francisco Solano, at Sonoma,
has been purchased, and work has already been commenced
for the preservation of what remains at San Antonio de
Padua.

HOW TO REACH THE MISSIONS 389

CHAPTER XXXVII

HOW TO REACH THE MISSIONS

SAN DIEGO. From Los Angeles to San Diego, Santa
Fe Railway, 126 miles, fare $3.85 ; round trip $6.00,
good four days, or $7.50, good 30 days, with stop-
over privileges, which allows a visit to San Luis Rey and
Pala (via Oceanside) and San Juan Capistrano. Or steam-
ship, $3.00 and $2.25 ; round trip, first class, $5.25. The
Mission is six miles from San Diego, and a carriage must
be taken all the way, or the electric car to the bluff, fare
five cents ; thence by Bluff Road, on burro, two miles, fare
fifty cents. The better way is to drive by Old Town and
return by the BlufF Road.

San Luis Rey. From Los Angeles to Oceanside, Santa
Fe Railway, 85 miles, fare $3.15 ; round trip, Saturday to
Monday, $4.50. Take carriage from livery, or walk to
Mission, 4 miles. The trip to Pala may be taken at the
same time, though there are no sleeping accommodations
to be had at Pala. Meals may be had at one or two of
the Indian houses, as a rule.

San Juan Capistrano. From Los Angeles to Capis-
trano, Santa Fe Railway, 58 miles, fare $1.80. The Mis-
sion is close to the station. Hotel accommodations are
poor.

San Gabriel. From Los Angeles to San Gabriel,
Southern Pacific Railway, 8 miles, fare 25 cents. Or elec-
tric car from Los Angeles, 25 cents.

San Fernando. From Los Angeles to San Fernando,
Southern Pacific Railway, 22 miles, fare 65 cents. Thence

390 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

by carriage or on foot or horseback to the Mission, 1|
miles. Livery and hotel at San Fernando.

San Buenaventura. From Los Angeles to San Buena-
ventura, Southern Pacific Railway, 83 miles, fare $2.50.
Or steamship, $2.35, special, Saturday to Monday, $3.00
round trip. Electric cars from Southern Pacific Station
pass the Mission.

Santa Barbara. From Los Angeles to Santa Barbara,
Southern Pacific Railway, fare $3.35, special round trip,
Saturday to Monday, $3.50. From San Francisco to
Santa Barbara, 370 miles, Southern Pacific Railway, fare
$13.40 and $11.65. Street car passes the Mission.

Santa Ines. This is not on the line of any railway.
It can be reached from Santa Barbara, 25 miles, by
carriage, or from Los Olivos, four miles, by stage. Los
Olivos is on the line of the Pacific Coast Railway. To
reach it take Southern Pacific Railway to San Luis Obispo,
change cars. It is then 66 miles to Los Olivos, fare $3.00.
The better way is to go by Southern Pacific to Lompoc,
take carriage and visit the site of Old La Purisima, then
Purisima, then drive to Santa Ines and return. With a
good team this can be done in a day. Distance 25 miles.

La Purisima Concepci6n. Go to Lompoc on the coast
line of the Southern Pacific either from Los Angeles (187
miles, $7.05) or San Francisco (313 miles, $10.70). Car-
riage from livery to the ruins of Old Purisima, thence to
the later one, five miles.

San Luis Obispo. Southern Pacific Railway from
either Los Angeles (230 miles, $9.10) or San Francisco
(253 miles, $7.65), or steamship to Port Hartford and the
Pacific Coast Railway, 211 miles, $6.50. The Mission is
in the town.

San Miguel. The Mission is but a few rods from the
Southern Pacific Station, reached either from Los Angeles
(273 miles, $10.85) or San Francisco (208 miles, $5.95).
By far the better way, however, is to go to Paso Robles,

HOW TO REACH THE MISSIONS 391

where one can bathe in the hot springs so noted even in
Indian days, while enjoying the hospitalities of one of the
best hotels on the Pacific Coast. Carriages may be secured
from one of the livery stables. From here visit Santa
Isabel Ranch and Hot Springs (which used to belong to
San Miguel), then drive 16 miles to San Miguel. On
account of the completeness of its interior decorations, this
is, in many respects, especially to the student, the most
interesting Mission of the whole chain.

San Antonio de Padua. It is a twenty-mile stage ride
from King's City, on the line of the Southern Pacific (216
miles from Los Angeles, $12.00) to Jolon (fare $2.00), the
quaintest little village now remaining in California, which
is practically the gateway to Mission San Antonio de
Padua. At Jolon one secures a team, and, after a six-
mile drive through a beautiful park, dotted on every hand
with majestic live oaks, — ancient monarchs that have
accumulated moss and majesty with their years, — the
ruins of the old Mission come into view. From San Fran-
cisco to King's City is 164 miles, fare $4.65.

La Soledad. The Mission is four miles from the town
of Soledad on the Southern Pacific Railway. From Los
Angeles, 337 miles, fare $12.00. From San Francisco,
144 miles, fare $4.50. Round trip, six months' limit,
$8.00. Livery from Soledad to the Mission.

San Juan Bautista is six miles from Sargent's Station
on the Southern Pacific. Two stages run daily, fare $1.00
for the round trip. Visitors may be accommodated at the
Plaza Hotel, conducted by William Haydon. From Los
Angeles to Sargent's, 394 miles, fare $14.45. From San
Francisco 87 miles, fare $2.35.

San Carlos Caemelo, Monterey. The old presidio
church is in the town of Monterey, and reached by car-line
from Hotel del Monte or the town. San Carlos Carmelo
is about six miles from Monterey, and must be reached on
horseback or by carriage. By far the best way is to stop

392 THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA

at either Hotel del Monte or Hotel Carmelo, Pacific Grove,
and then on taking the seventeen-mile drive, make the side
trip to San Carlos. To Monterey from San Francisco, on
Southern Pacific Railway, is 126 miles, fare $3.00. Fri-
day to Tuesday excursion, round trip, $4.50. From Los
Angeles to Monterey, Southern Pacific Railway, 398 miles,
fare $14.25.

Santa Cruz. It is well to go from San Francisco on
the narrow gauge, 80 miles, Southern Pacific, and return
on the broad gauge, 121 miles. Fare on either line $3.80.
On the narrow gauge are the Big Trees, at which an inter-
esting stop over can be enjoyed.

Santa Clara. While there is a city of Santa Clara
it is better to go to San Jose (the first town established in
California), and stay at Hotel Vendome, and then drive
or go by electric car, down the old Alameda to Santa Clara
Mission, 3| miles.

Mission San Jose. So called to distinguish it from the
city of San Jose. By Southern Pacific Railway from San
Francisco to Irvington, 34 miles, fare 85 cents. Or from
the city of San Jose, 14 miles by Southern Pacific, or a
pleasant carriage drive. From Irvington to the Mission
three miles, stage twice daily, fare 25 cents.

San Francisco de Asis. Is on Sixteenth and Dolores
St., three miles from Palace Hotel. Take Valencia or
Howard St. electric cars.

San Rafael. There is nothing left at San Rafael of
the old Mission. The town is reached by North Pacific
Coast Railway, 18 miles, or California Northwestern, 15
miles, fare 35 cents.

San Francisco Solano. In the town of Sonoma.
Reached by North Pacific Coast Railway, 43 miles, fare
$1.00.

Vharton James

■

Mexico have long served the ro-
mancer with exceedingly picturesque ma-
terial. They have also found their way
largely into history. The present author
declares that his pages " are not offered
as an original -ontribution on the sub-
ject," and confesses that he has "con-
sulted no original Spanish records."

I am (says he) but one of the great mass
of laymen nto love the old missions for
their own sake, for their history, for the
noble deeds they have enshrined, for the
good their builders did— and more than
what they actually did. what they sought
to do— for the Indians, whom the later-
comers, my own race, have treated so
abominably.

Mr. James goes on to acknowledge his
obligation to many previous writers, es-
pecially Bancroft and Father Zephyrin.
and to point out that he can only pre-
tend to contribution of new matter when
he comes to describe the architectural
and antiquarian features of the missions.
He has laid stress, too, upon a determi-
nation of the real condition of the In-
dians when the padres came among them
and afterward. Mr. Jahnes does not
think the red men of the Western coast
were absolute barbarians, and produces
much documentary evidence to show that
they have been maligned. Then he
dwells lovingly upon mural decorations
in the old presidios and other settle-
ments, upon furniture, pulpits, doors,
crosses, candlesticks, and figures of the
saints, and ha.s collected a large number
of excellent photographs illustrating
these matters.

It is not at all necessary to follow the
h^torical course of the Spanish missions
but the author has set forth the
' movement by which they were founded,
and then taken up the stations one by
one in some detail-San Diego, San Carlos.
San Francisco, Santa Clara, Santa Bar-
bara, I,os Angeles, San Bernardino, and
a long list of others. Mr. James out-
lines "the history of these stations and
surveys the work they did. He treats
of the effect upon them of 'secu-
larization" at the hands of the Mexican
rtimeht. The author's spirit has
ed in the quotation from nis
.. ms b.- ok reduces its

ellany of information about
the Spanish fath. d contains an al-

most overwhelming number of
many of them of very minor Importance
m themselves. In view of the wri
evident • ^sm, it is to be regretted

thai his manner of pies.:, ting the subject
.in quality of dryness, but
there is no doubt tb' ' "<"as»-

on the same sub4
th • volume to '

the Grand
olorado

zona

nil-page plates and
text. 8vo. Cloth.

3s of the marvels and
f absorbing interest,
escapes and thrilling
[legends and customs,
dices, give a wonderful
raphic description of
;er on the American
Iger.

ie Painted
fion

and fifty half-page
Crown 8vo. Deco-

iand valuable for its
]ps), and "a distinct
bo to topographical
p Commercial), is this
' vividly describes the
upai Indians of the
ian intimate personal
grounded himself in
v York Tribune.

O., Publishers

BOSTON

.
ard Jposf1 ■■•

-y i ndeai - 1 -_
ecta reconcilation between hosti'e op-
sites, but by contriving to induce the
posing parties to agree to disagree. In .
ler words, the " Religio Medici "
uld recommend that when science
aies the affirmations of religion a
.n should pay no heed to its nega-
ns, but should fall back upon faith,
^heology and science in water-tight
npartments, with no possibility of
erplay between them— that is," says
. Gosse, " the ideal of the phy-
ian's religion, and that the sys-
n upon which he can obey the
urch and yet be absolute monarch of

own mental processes." The position

Bacon and of Descartes, when faith
1 reason clashed, was precisely that of
3Wne. But, illustrious examples to the
ltrary notwithstanding, that position
;, with time, become more and more
t'icult, and is to-day well-nigh Impos-
le. Indeed, as an attempt to build up

bulwarks of faith, the " Religio Med-
" need no longer be reckoned with.

arguments are not philosophically
mod, and it begins, continues, and ends

begging the question. Its essential
tue, its true value, lie elsewhere. It
a beautiful, dignified, and persuasive
ditation, inducing the religious mood
t prompts man- to turn with reverence
,-ard the unseen, and to deal reverently
1 carefully with human life. It is a
itribution, not to faith, but to practi-

piety.

_. _„ _ Upon another

, ? J? hn,an side of the » Re-
in the ,. . ,, ,. . ..

« Religio Medici." ''fV 1C1

Mr. Gosse might

11 have dwelt more explicitly. That
)k is an admirable literary expression
the attitude, spirit, and temper of the
glish Churchman. It is at every point
full sympathy with the Anglican posi-
q,- embodying its lingering fondness for
emonies and 'observances by the Purl-
is held superstitious, its tinge of Cal-
tism,, its. protest against the "unjust
mdal " of those who declared it a crea-
n of Henry VIII., its doctriaal elastic-
, and 'the fringe of liberalism that led
ine to speak of the Englishman's re-
ion as half rational. And it is one
at virtue of this work that in eham-
ning the Churoh nf England it does so
'-'sin. In an age
^oversy, it

Other Books by George Wharton James

In and Around the Grand

Canyon of the Colorado

River in Arizona

Illustrated with twenty-three full-page plates and
seventy-seven pictures in the text. 8vo. Cloth.
Price. $2.50

THE volume, crowded with pictures of the marvels and
beauties of the Canyon, is of absorbing interest.
Dramatic narratives of hairbreadth escapes and thrilling
adventures, stories of Indians, their legends and customs,
and Mr. James's own perilous experiences, give a wonderful
personal interest in these pages of graphic description of
the most stupendous natural wonder on the American
Continent. — Philadelphia Public Ledger.

The Indians of the Painted
Desert Region

With sixteen full-page pictures and fifty half-page
illustrations from photographs. Crown 8vo. Deco-
rated cloth. $2.00 net

INTERESTING as a fairy tale and valuable for its
accuracy as well11 {Literary News}, and "a distinct
and extremely interesting contribution to topographical
and ethnological knowledge11 {Buffalo Com?nerciafy,is this
book by Professor James, in which he vividly describes the
Navaho, Hopi, Wallapai, and Havasupai Indians of the
Southwest. "The writer has made an intimate personal
acquaintance with his subject and has grounded himself in
the researches of others,11 says the JVezv York Tribune.

LITTLE, BROWN, & CO., Publishers

254 WASHINGTON STREET, BOSTON

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Full text of "In and out of the old missions of California; an historical and pictorial account of the Franciscan missions"

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