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^XnittA SfUU» ^tnUmial d^omntiiSiSion.

International Exhibition,
4876.

REPORTS AND AWARDS

VOL. V.

GROUPS viii-xiv:

BDTTBD BY

FRANCIS A. WALKER,

CHIEF OF THE BUREAU OF AWARDS.

WASHINGTON:

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE.
1880.

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GROUP VIII.

COTTON, LINEN, AND OTHER FABRICS.

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GIFT

MAY 22 «

li38ii8.M

GROUP VIII.

JUDGES.

AMERICAN.
Edward Atkinson, Boston, Mass.
Hugh Waddell, Savannah, Ga.
Ed. Richardson, Jackson, Miss.
A. D. Lockwood, Providence, R. I.
Chas. H. Wolff, Cincinnati, Ohio.
Samuel Webber, C.E., Manchester, N. H.
Geo. O. Baker, Selma, Ala.

FOREIGN.

Isaac Watts, Great Britain.

W. W. HULSE, C.E., Great Britain.

Alvaro de LA Gandara, Spain.

A. Goldy, Switzerland.

Friedrich Gustav Herrmann, Ger-
many.

Giuseppe Dassi, Italy.

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GROUP VI 1 1.

COTTON, LINEN, AND OTHER FABRICS, INCLUDING THE
MATERIALS AND THE MACHINERY.

Class 228. — ^Wovcn fabrics of mineral origin.

Wire cloths, sieve cloth, wire screens, bolting cloths. Asbestos fibre, spun and woven,
with the clothing manufactured from it. Glass thread, floss and fabrics.

Class 229.— Coarse fabrics, of grass, rattan, cocoanut, and bark.
Mattings — Chinese, Japanese, palm-leaf, grass, and rushes. Floor cloths of rattan
and cocoanut fibre, aloe fibre, etc.

Class 665. — Cotton on the stem, in the boll, ginned, atxd baled.

Class 666. — Hemp, flax, jute, ramie, etc., in primitive forms and in all stages of
preparation for spinning.

Class 230. — Cotton yams and fabrics, bleached and unbleached.
Cotton sheeting and shirting, plain and twilled.
Cotton canvas and duck. Awnings, tents.

Class 231. — Dyed cotton fabrics, exclusive of prints and calicoes.

Class 232. — Cotton prints and calicoes, including handkerchiefs, scarfs, etc.

Class 233. — Linen and other vegetable fabrics, uncolored or dyed.

Class 234. — Floor oil cloths, and other painted and enameled tissues, and imitations
of leather with a woven base.

Class 521. — Machines for the manufacture of cotton goods.

Class 523. — Machines for the manufacture of linen goods.

Class 524. — Machines for the manufacture of rope and twine, and other fibrous
materials not elsewhere specified.

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GENERAL REPORT

OF THE

JUDGES OF GROUP Vlll.

Philadelphia, October, 1876.
Prof. Francis A. Walker, Chief of Bureau of Awards :

Sir. — The Judges constituting Group VIII., of which I was the
President, having completed their labors, I have the honor to submit
to you the following report. They were charged with the examina-
tion of the exhibits in Classes 228, 229, 230, 231, 232, 233, 234, 521,
523, 524, 665, 666; and, for the more efficient performance of their
onerous duties, the group was divided into sections, each consisting
of three or more Judges, every section undertaking the examination
of the exhibits in those classes with which its members were most
familiar.

I have the honor to be, sir, your faithful and obedient servant,

ISAAC WATTS, Chairman.

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INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

GROUP VIII.
COTTON, LINEN, AND OTHER FABRICS.

BY ISAAC WATTS.

CLASS 228. — Woven Fabrics of Mineral Origin.

This class comprised woven fabrics of mineral origin. The exhbits
were numerous and excellent, though in some of them there appeared
room for much improvement as regards ornamentation. The wire-
cloths, sieve-cloths, wire-screens, and bolting-cloths were, as a whole,
highly creditable, and deserving of commendation, on account both
of the taste and economy displayed in their production. The garden
ornaments were graceful, and well adapted to different varieties of
climate. The wire fabrics for manufacturing purposes comprised
several novel improvements. Among these may be mentioned the
wire fire-proof lath, serving as a base for ordinary mortar plastering,
or for asbestos covering, meeting, to some extent, a much-felt want
for the purpose of rendering buildings thoroughly fire-proof. The
asbestos fibre and fabrics deserve special mention, as, both on ac-
count of their variety and practical uses, they surpassed anything
exhibited on previous occasions. For steam-packing, steam-joints,
roofing, pipe-covering, and other purposes where excessive heat or
fire has to be overcome, the material appeared to have been success-
fully utilized. Wood covered with asbestos, moistened with water or
other liquid, and hardened by exposure to the atmosphere, seems
able to defy the action of fire; while, from its properties of toughness,
elasticity, and non-conduction of heat, as well as on account of its
cheapness, it appears likely to be of great utility. As a covering for
pipes used for the transmission of water or steam, its practical value
will attract increasing attention ; while, as a material for the produc-
tion of non-combustible v/riting-paper, it may prove to be of consider-
able advantage where the preservation of private or public documents
is important. This remarkable mineral product is found extensively
distributed over the world, and is obtained in quantities from Italy,
Germany, Switzerland, Canada, California, Pennsylvania, Maryland,

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP VIIL 3

Carolina, Vermont, Maine, Virginia, Texas, and others of the United
States.

CLASS 229. — Coarse Fabrics of Grass, Rattan, Cocoa-nut,

AND Bark.
The Exhibition was remarkably rich in these exhibits; and the
display was in all respects most satisfactory. The various novel,
economical, and useful articles of rattan deserve special notice, while
the grasses apd barks, in fibre and fabrics, evince considerable prog-
ress, and indicate the wonderful expansion in this direction which
may yet be expected. In mattings, — Chinese, Japanese, palm-leaf,
grass, and rushes; floor-cloths of rattan, cocoa-nut fibre, aloe, etc., —
it was satisfactory to observe the thorough blending of the artistic
and the useful. There is, however, a vast field yet to be explored in
the collection of the different varieties of these fibres, and in the em-
ployment of more of them in each fabric, as well as in the invention
of machinery suitable for the purpose. This may be encouraged by
the increased demand likely to arise for floor-cloth, mattings, etc.,
on sanitary grounds, — especially in the heated miasmatic regions of
America and elsewhere.

CLASS 665. — Raw Cotton, Ginned, etc.

In this class there was scarcely any foreign competition, the cottons
exhibited being almost entirely of American growth. Brazil, indeed,
furnished, in small bales, some excellent specimens of tiie various
descriptions produced in that empire, known as Pernambuco, Paraiba.
Santos, Bahia, Maranham, and Maccio cotton. From India, two bales,
of the usual size, of Dhollera, Hingunghijt, Oomrawuttee, Broach.
Dhawar, Bengal, and Madras cottons were exhibited, not for compe-
tition, but as an illustration of the mode in which the raw material
is prepared and sent to market. From Egypt, and some other minor
cotton-growing countries, small samples were furnished, which served
to show their progress and capabilities; but nearly all the large com-
mercial bales were from the Southern States of the Union. Some
remarkably fine specimens of Sea Island cotton, grown in America,
the Fiji Islands, Queensland, and elsewhere, excited much admiration.
A quantity of cotton was drawn from the separate bales by expert
samplers; and each lot, having a number attached to it, was examined,
without the possibility of any one's knowing in what district or by
what planter it had been grown, in order to secure a perfectly impar-
tial decision. When the names of the successful competitors were
disclosed, it was discovered that one of them was a colored planter.

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4 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

This to myself was a source of special gratification, from the fact
that I had for many years been engaged, in connection with the
Cotton Supply Association of England, in promoting the cultiva-
tion of cotton in the colonies and dependencies of Great Britain and
throughout the world, by free labor, at the time when the manufac-
turers of every country were almost entirely dependent upon slavery
for the raw material which they required. I may also, perhaps, be
permitted to state that I had the privilege of receiving, during the
cotton famine in England, the first cotton (consisting of four balesi
grown near Vicksburg by free colored labor in the then slave-holding
States of the Union, and I could not but rejoice to meet the colored
planter by the side of his white competitor, in amicable rivalry, and
able to establish a claim to pre-eminence in this great branch of
American industry.

CLASS 666. — Hemp, Flax, Jute, Ramie, etc.

Both in their primitive forms, and in the stages of preparation for
spinning, the assortments were very complete, and the cultivated
portions showed that considerable progress had been made in their
improvement. This was especially observable in the different kinds
of jute exhibited, of which there were several new varieties. The
entire collection of these fibres was extremely interesting, and the
careful examination of them justifies the conclusion that they are
capable of much further application, and that they are likely to prove
of great value and come into extensive use. Whether considered
botanically or commercially they are deserving of attention, and may
be made to answer a variety of important practical purposes. The
rhea fibre, or China-grass, known by its Malay name of ramie, —
the Bcehmeria mica of the botanist, — claims special attention, as
likely to become a most valuable material for manufacturing pur-
poses when the difficulties hitherto experienced in its preparation
shall have been overcome. The information and samples obtained
from China to aid the investigations of Dr. Falconer enabled him,
and afterwards Sir William Hooker, to determine that rhea is the
same plant as that from which Chinese grass-cloth is manufactured ;
and, in the London Exhibition of 185 1, several specimens, in various
stages of preparation, attracted attention and gave rise to subsequent
experiments for utilizing the fibre. These experiments have served
to demonstrate that its inherent qualities entitle it to take a high
position among fibres, and that it is pre-eminent for its strength and
lustre in comparison with others. It has been shown to be consider-
ably stronger than either flax or hemp, and, while the fibres are as

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP VIII, 5

fine as those of flax, if not finer, it has also the additional advantage
of possessing, in a remarkable degree, a silky lustre. Jute, the only
other fibre which can compete with it in this respect, is far inferior to
it in strength and durability, as well as in its capability for bleaching
and dyeing. It has been tried as a substitute for cotton, hemp, flax,
wool, and silk. During the scarcity of cotton in England, cottonized
rhea was spun, and the yarn woven into different fabrics, and dyed
and printed. In some cases it was mixed with Egyptian, and in
others with India cotton. The fabrics acquired a gloss which gave
them the appearance of linen. Though the experiment was to a
certain extent successful, the cost and other considerations precluded
the possibility of its use as a substitute for cotton. It may, however,
become a formidable rival to flax, in the finer varieties. It has also
been successfully used as a substitute for longer-stapled wools ; and,
since the Exhibition of 1851, many attempts have been made, both
in England and France, to test its suitability as a substitute for silk,
or as an admixture with it, but in this respect it has a formidable
rival in jute, on account of its greater cheapness. The superiority of
rhea to hemp as regards strength and resistance to water may make
it an advantageous substitute, and it may be possible to replace
hempen cordage by lighter rhea ones. Should the prices of the raw
material become reduced, and the means of its preparation be im-
proved, rhea can scarcely fail to take a high place among fibres and
to come into more extensive use. Indeed, there hardly exists a fibre
which, on account of its own inherent properties, can be applied to
so many different purposes. It is capable of entering largely into
textile manufactures, and, as compared with flax, — which possesses
the most extended range of applications, from the roughest canvas
and cordage to the finest lace, — rhea has a range even greater still,
owing partly to the superlative degree in which it is endowed with
the qualities of fineness, strength, and lustre, seldom found in the
same perfection in any single fibre, and partly to the singular position
which it holds between the usual vegetable and the animal fibres.
Although a vegetable fibre, its hairiness assimilates it to wool, and its
gloss and finejness to silk. Thus it appears that rhea is capable of
as wide a range of applications as hemp, to which it is superior in
almost every respect, and as flax also, with the exception perhaps of
its use for body linen, while it is capable of certain other uses for
which only the animal fibres, wool and silk, have hitherto been em-
ployed. The cost of the raw material alone may be said to prevent
its extensive introduction into manufactures. Any slight technical
difficulties experienced in spinning and weaving which may remain

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6 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITTON, 1876

would speedily be overcome if the price were reduced so as to make
its use remunerative. The cultivation of the rhea plant on a large
scale has been encouraged by the British Government in India ; and
prizes of £$000 and ;^2000 each were offered for the production of
machinery to facilitate its preparation for the market, in order to pro-
mote its more extensive use for manufacturing purposes. An ex-
tended cultivation of this valuable fibre in America will probably
effect an increasing demand for its employment in manufactures.

CLASSES 230, 231, 232. — Cotton Yarns and Fabrics.

These classes comprise exhibits which show in a striking manner
the wonderful progress made by the cotton industry- in the United
States, and the remarkable degree of perfection which has already
been attained, but they afford only scanty opportunities for compar-
ison with the manufactures of other countries. The comparatively
meagre collections sent by England and other European nations is
chiefly attributable to the excessive protective tariffs which still find
favor in America, and exclude foreign manufactures from her markets.
Those who were thus precluded from the possibilities of trade found
but little inducement to incur the trouble and expense of sending
their goods to Philadelphia, and they therefore became conspicuous
chiefly by their absence. On this account it was a subject of great
regret, in which almost every European representative shared, that
no complete comparison could be made, and that one of the most
valuable purposes of an International Exhibition was thereby frus-
trated. But while American textile manufacturers had the field
almost entirely to themselves, the small collections supplied by their
foreign competitors were sufficient to show that they have nothing
to fear whenever they can meet on equal terms, with a fair field and
no favor. The general excellence and, in some cases, the supe-
riority of the display made by England and her colonies was fully
admitted, and the fabrics sent by the various manufacturing coun-
tries of the Continent of Europe were generally distinguished by
qualities which placed them upon a par with the best productions of
America. Indeed, the praises bestowed upon the few goods exhibited
by foreign manufacturers made it a matter of regret that the number
had not been largely increased. Canada made a remarkable display,
— one which excited universal admiration, and which, as regards
articles of clothing and textile fabrics of all kinds, was fully equal to
any in the Exhibition. The American display of textile manufactures
was extensive, varied, and important in every respect. The collection
of fabrics produced in the numerous mills of the New England States,

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP VIII. 7

New York^ New Jersey, and other parts of the Union was as com-
plete as it well could be, and afforded a striking proof of their capa-
bility to compete with the manufacturers of other countries, if it
were not for the policy which, to a great extent, excludes them from
the general markets of the world. The goods exhibited were, for
the most part, pure, even, firm, and well manufactured. The dyed
cotton fabrics were pre-eminent for brightness, coloring, and dura-
bility. The bleaching, dyeing, and finishing of the various grades
and styles of cotton cloth evinced much superiority, which is prob-
ably, in some degree, attributable to the abundance of excellent water
which exists throughout the States. The cotton prints and calicoes,
and the colored and fancy goods exhibited both by American manu-
facturers and their foreign competitors were so nearly upon an equality
that no one could lay claim to any marked degree of superiority.
Some bleached shirtings from England attracted attention on account
of their special fineness and even texture, combined with softness and
purity, while the collective exhibits from the Gladbach district, Wiir-
temberg. and Elberfeld, in Germany, were of pre-eminent excellence.
The striking effects produced by the Jacquard loom are deserving of
high commendation. The beauty of the designs and the embroidery
in handkerchiefs, scarfs, etc., were deservedly much admired. The
whole of these classes were conspicuous for exquisite workmanship,
elegance of design, and harmonious blending of colors. On the part
of every country much versatility of taste and skill was displayed.
There was nothing gaudy, or that could offend the most fastidious or
critical observer. The spirited and amicable contest for supremacy
into which all nations more or less entered in the Centennial Exhi-
bition, proves the remarkable progress which has been made in the
course of the past century, and affords a powerful stimulus to further
enterprise and exertion.

CLASS 233. — Linen and other Vegetable Fabrics.

The linen fabrics constituting this class were varied and extensive,
and were remarkable for their superior fineness and quality. The
Irish manufacturers may justly be said to have taken the lead ; those
of Scotland were but little behind, while Dresden, Wiirtemberg, Bel-
gium, the Netherlands. Austria, Italy, Sweden, and Norway all pre-
sented a very creditable display. The American exhibitors in this
class were not numerous, nor did they offer so great a variety as their
foreign competitors. These fabrics were of general excellence and
utility, and some were remarkable for the superior taste manifested in
the coloring. Some of the printed lawns, brocades, and embroidered

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8 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

linens displayed much novelty and elegance of design. The damasks
of Dresden and the embroidered linens in the collective exhibit of
Wiirtemberg were deserving of special mention. If pre-eminence
may be claimed by the manufacturers of Ireland, it is only in such a
degree as to extinguish envy and excite emulation. All the com-
peting countries in this class are entitled to commendation, and may
be congratulated on the progress already made, and the promise thus
afforded of still further excellence.

CLASSES 234, 521, 523, 524.

On these classes the following statement has been furnished by
Mr. William W. Hulse, a member of the group:

"The Chairman of Group VIII. has desired me to send a compar-
ative report on the machinery, as an addendum to his own report.
But, really, it is not practicable to form a judgment based on com-
parison, for lack of means, there being in no instance a complete set
of textile machinery exhibited from any nation. The only exhibit
which approached completeness was in the United States department,
and it was not worked, but kept idle. If I might venture on giving
some opinions which I formed, of an abstract character, I would say
that, as regards extent of invention and ingenuity of (Retail, the United
States were far ahead, for there was scarcely an exhibitor who had not
some novel features to claim. For consummate invention and arrange-
ment of mechanism — based, no doubt, on an older experience — the
palm was, in my judgment, earned for Great Britain. I attributed the
extent of ingenuity and invention manifested everywhere in the ma-
chinery department of the United States to the fostering, stimulating,
and admirable patent-law system. As regards quality of construction,
utility, and fitness for the purpose intended, I formed the opinion that
the cotton-gin and the calico-printing machinery, and the machinery
and tie-in warps from Yorkshire, were the most solid and best ex-
amples. The cotton-spool machinery of Conant; the calico dyeing
machinery by Butterworth ; spinning and weaving machinery by
Draper, Lord, & Co., Kitson, Lyall, Thomas, Crompton, Knowles, and
others ; and the tentering machinery by Palmer, — all of the United
States, — followed very closely upon the best examples from Great
Britain.

"The other class upon which I had to form a judgment, in con-
nection with my co-Judges in textile machinery, was that of oil-
cloths. In this class I had no hesitation in assigning the first place
to the United States, for great variety, beauty of design, richness of
colors, and quality of texture in oil floor-cloths, table-cloths, car-

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP VIIL g

riage-cloths, and fancy cloths for upholstery; the best exhibit, in my
opinion, being that of Messrs. Potter, Sons, & Co. For design and
finish, durability of fabric and colors, and flexibility of oil floor-cloths
of extraordinary size and area, the best example in the Exhibition
(being fifteen yards long by eight yards wide, in one web) was exhibited
by Messrs. Nairne & Co., of Scotland, Great Britain. In other floor-
cloths, the Boulinikon, from England, and the American Linoleum
floor-cloth were both excellent in quality, design, colors, durability,
and strength, and for warmth to the feet were unsurpassed. It has
been my misfortune, in making this report, not to have the assistance
at hand of my excellent co-Judges, Messrs. Webber and Lockwood
and Professor Hermann, of Germany, on machinery, and Messrs.
Waddell and Baker on floor-cloths, etc. I should be very sorry if
my opinion, thus expressed, should in any way differ from theirs;
but, so far as I could gather at the time, I am inclined to think it does
not.**

AMERICAN COTTON AND COTTON MANUFACTURES.

BY EDWARD ATKINSON.

The report of the Chairman of Group VIII. gives a sufficient state-
ment of the details of the results reached by the Judges of that group;
but it may, perhaps, be well for the Secretary to make a more general
report upon one of the principal subjects of which the Judges were
called upon to take cognizance, to wit, the cotton production and
cotton manufacture of the United States.

The commanding position of the United States in respect to the
production of cotton has long been admitted; but it seems probable
that even few of the manufacturers themselves have been fully aware
of the strong position in which the cotton manufacture of the United
States now stands in relation to other countries.

The subject of the production of cotton opens so wide a field that
it is hard to know where to begin or end. There is no other product
which has had so potent an influence upon the history and institutions
of the land, and perhaps no other on which its future material welfare
may more depend. When the Spaniards first entered Mexico, the
natives were found to be clothed in cotton, and the art of weaving
and dyeing had been carried to a high state of perfection for that time
among them. Then, as now, the best and most prolific varieties of
the cotton-plant existed there, and the plant is doubtless indigenous
to Mexico.

In the United States, a century ago, it was scarcely known as an

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10 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

important production, and not until the invention of the saw-gin by
Eli Whitney, in 1792, did it become so. To-day the United States
furnish nearly three-fourths the quantity consumed in their own limits,
in Canada, and in Europe combined. There are no data by which
the quantity produced and consumed elsewhere can be accurately de-
termined. It may therefore be a matter of interest to state and record,
in this report, the work that we have accomplished, and to forecast the
work we may yet have to do.

Among the three fibres — wool, flax, and cotton — which constitute
the principal materials for clothing, cotton is the most important;
because it is ready for treatment by machinery as soon as it is
gathered, because its conversion into cloth is least costly, and be-
cause its use for clothing is most conducive to health, in respect to
the largest portion of the population of the world.

In the cotton-factories of Europe and the United States there are
a little over sixty-eight million spindles, worked by about one million
men, women, and children. In the operation of these spindles a little
more than six million bales of cotton, of the average weight of Amer-
ican bales, are annually converted into ten thousand million yards of
cloth, averaging one yard wide and four yards to the pound, or ten
pounds to a piece of forty yards, or into the equivalent of such cloth
in other fabrics. This quantity of cloth would furnish five hundred
million persons twenty yards each, annually. Of the six million bales
of cotton, the United States now furnish about four and a half millions
in each year ; and our proportion is, year by year, increasing. The
last eight crops raised by the labor of freemen exceed the last eight
crops raised, before our civil war, mainly by the labor of slaves, in the
number of more than fifteen hundred thousand bales. If. then, it be a
service to men to provide for them the largest quantity of the material
that best serves their need for clothing, in this one respect our rank is
assured. Then let us mark the extent to which we have yet trenched
upon our resources. In this production less than two percent, of the
area of the cotton States is yet used. What we may yet accomplish
may be better realized by considering the condition of a single State.
We will select Texas, as being the State now making the most rapid
progress in population, production, and wealth. Few persons can
realize the facts in regard to this great State, except by comparison.
In area it exceeds the German Empire by about sixty thousand square
miles. It has the capacity to produce almost all the products of the
temperate zone. It is underlaid with coal. But, in respect to cotton,
on less than one-half of one per cent, of its area it last year produced
one-half of all the cotton consumed in the United States ; and four

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP VIIL n

per cent of its area would be capable of producing all the cotton now
consumed in Europe and the United States — over six million bales.

Under what conditions is this work now accomplished, or yet to
be done ? No longer by the forced labor of the slave upon the plan-
tation, but by the labor of freemen, and mostly of freeholders on the
farm. In most of the States where it is now grown cotton consti-
tutes the salable or money crop of the farmer, who, in other respects,
is becoming entirely independent as to his subsistence, raising food
and meat to a greater extent than ever before. The Southern farmer
still finds in cotton the means wherewith to furnish himself with
money for other purchases. Cotton, therefore, being more and more
the surplus crop or profit of the farmer, as distinguished from the
planter, it becomes more difficult to determine its cost, its annual
quantity until each year's crop has been delivered, or the prices at
which its production will be checked. In answer to a very extended
inquiry lately made by the writer, he has received estimates of the
cost of production, ranging from six to fifteen cents per pound ; the
latter cost, however, having been given by one who, on twelve hun-
dred acres of land, made only four bales of cotton the previous year.
The general range of the estimates of cost were from six to ten cents.
One answer to the question of cost was most significant. One said,
" I have a nephew, twenty years of age, who, without the least detri-
ment to his" schooling, and working Saturdays, produced four bales of
cotton." It may be asked. What did this lad's cotton cost to produce?

According to these returns, this Centennial year is also marked by
greater improvements than ever before in the selection of seed, in the
improvement of tools, in the use of fertilizers, and in the average
crop per acre ; positive evidence having been given of the production
of two thousand five hundred pounds of lint or clean cotton on a
single measured acre in Georgia. It was not claimed that this had
been, or could be, profitable ; but it is significant of the experiments
that are being tried in many places. The average estimates of profit-
able work range from four hundred to one thousand pounds of lint,
or clean cotton, per acre, according to the quality of the soil and the
kind of work done.

The last ten years have also witnessed the conversion of the seed
of the cotton-plant into many useful articles but little known before.

The future production of cotton in the United States, and the time
within which our staple will take the place of all inferior grades is.
therefore, only a question of numbers and intelligence. In respect to
intelligence, it is not to be questioned that the planter of old time had
far more skill than many of the farmers of the present time ; but the

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12 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITIONy 1876.

system of labor to which that skill was applied imposed conditions
that could not be surmounted, and enforced the use of tools and
methods unfit for the purpose. These methods may have assured
prosperity to the few at the cost of the many ; but it was the high
price, and not the low price, of cotton, that limited the extension of
the crop. Twenty years since, every bale that could be made by the
force then upon the cotton-field was needed ; and, under the steadily
advancing price, the cost of opening new fields as steadily increased,
until, in i860, it cost fifty per cent, more to buy and stock a cotton
plantation to raise the cotton for a given factory than it did to build
the mill and fill it with machinery. All this has changed ; and, in the
five years last passed, more than a million persons have migrated to
the fertile lands of Texas; and the independent freeholder will only
be prevented from making more and more cotton each year by the
low price, and not by the high price, it may bring. That no such
check is very near may presently be made apparent.

In regard to the exhibit of raw cotton, the Exhibition was marked
by a collection of commercial bales of every variety of cotton cus-
tomarily sold in Europe, collected by Messrs. Claghorn, Herring, &
Co., of Philadelphia, and said to have been the best collection ever
made. It has been sold to the Dutch authorities, and is to constitute
a part of an international exhibition of the products of the soil about
to be opened in Amsterdam. •

The exhibit of American cotton was limited in quantity, but was
of the finest quality. Every bale was of the highest grade ; but, as
it appeared to be the desire of the contributors that the selection
should be a very rigid one, it was made by rejecting one bale after
another, until there remained but three, among which the Judges
could make no discrimination, and for which they made three awards.
When the key was opened that disclosed the name and status of the
contributors, it was found, to the equal satisfaction of all the Judges,
whether from the North or South or from abroad, that one of the
diplomas had been gained by a freedman, — one whose farm, formerly
known as the Joe Davis Plantation, in Mississippi, now proves that
the production of cotton no longer depends on slavery for its abun-
dance or its quality; while another was gained by a Vermont farmer
who moved to Louisiana since the war ended.

In one respect, great improvement is needed where little has yet
been made. The separation of the lint from the seed is the process
that should be most fitly accomplished, but which is now most rudely
done. The best saw-gin, of the usual construction, unless most care-
fully attended, tears, breaks, doubles, and otherwise injures the staple,

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP VIII.

and but a small proportion of the cotton now made is delivered to the
spinner in the best condition. Two new cotton-gins were exhibited
at Philadelphia, which promise excellent results, — the roller-gin, made
by Messrs. Piatt Bros. & Co., of England, and the needle-point-gin made
by the Messrs. Remington, of Ilion, New York. If these machines can
be made to produce quantity in ratio to the quality of the staple which
they deliver, their wide introduction cannot be long delayed.

The method of packing, covering, and handling cotton in the
United States is now unfit in the extreme ; and, as the competition
becomes greater with declining prices, it is to be hoped and expected
that better methods will be adopted. At present, it is alleged that it
is not profitable to attempt better methods ; but the time cannot be
far distant \yhen the bale of cotton will be as carefully prepared and
protected as the bale of cotton fabrics.

In respect to the supply of cotton fabrics, this pountry fills as yet
but a subordinate position, except as to its own inhabitants. Its rela-
tion to other countries will appear from the following table, taken
mainly from the annual statement of 1875-76 of Messrs. Ellison & Co.,
of Liverpool :

Spindles

PER 1000 OP
Popt'l^TION.

318
1180
133
108
3X
675

40
148

Countries.

United States

Great Britain

France ,

Germany ,

Ru<isia and Poland...

Switzerland

Spain

Austria

Belgium

Italy ,

Norway and Sweden
Holland

Spindles.

,600,000
,000,000
,000,000
,650,000
,500,000
,850,000
,750,000
,580,000
800,000
800,000
300,000
330,000

68,060,000

Cotton per
Spindle.

63 lbs.
33H"

55 "

60 "

25 "

46 -

67 "

50 "

65 "
60 "

Estimated
Amount op Con-
sumption.

600,000,000
1,297,000,000

1,009,000,000

3,906,000,000

Spindles, 68,060,000 ; pounds, 2,906,000,000: equal to a little more
than six million bales of cotton of the average weight of American
bales.

From this table it appears that the United States have a little more
than fourteen per cent, of the spindles, and consume a little more than
twenty per cent, of the cotton. About ninety-three per cent, of the
production of the spindles of the United States is used at home, and
about seven per cent, is now exported. On the other hand, only
fifteen per cent, of the production of cotton fabrics of Great Britain is
used at home, and eighty-five per cent, is exported. As to the other

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14 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

countries named, it is probable that only two — Switzerland and Bel-
gium— produce more cotton fabrics than they consume; the rest
import more than they export.

It thus appears that the world is served to a far greater extent by
Great Britain than by the United States in the matter of cotton manu-
factures. Yet, without trenching upon her proportion, the open field
is yet vast. If we deduct the consumption of cotton fabrics of the
people of the United States, the quantity of cotton consumed by the
nations named in the table would furnish four hundred millions of
people with twenty yards each of an average fabric thirty-six inches
wide and four yards to the pound, or five pounds of the equivalent of
such fabric in other varieties. It should be remembered that the cloth-
ing of the nations outside of Europe itself, which are thus supplied
with five pounds, or twenty yards per head, mainly consists of cotton.
How small this quantity is will appear by comparison with the use of
cotton in the United States, where clothing mainly consists of other
fabrics. Our consumption is of heavier fabrics, on the average ; but,
for the purpose of comparison, may be stated at twelve to thirteen
pounds per head.

A further analysis will make it very clear that the demand for
cotton fabrics may be almost indefinitely extended. For the purpose
of this analysis, the case will be stated in round numbers, omitting
small fractions.

The manufacture of cotton in the United States is equal to a little
over thirteen pounds per head of the population, of which a little less
than one pound is exported, leaving for home consumption twelve
pounds per capita.

The cotton manufactures of Great Britain retained for home con-
sumption, according to the annual statement compiled from the tables
of the Board of Trade, are equal to only six pounds 'of cotton per
head ; but all the goods exported are much more loaded with sizing
than those retained for home use. It is probable that a larger propor-
tion of pure cotton is retained than is indicated by the tables.

The consumption of cotton in the countries on the Continent of
Europe named in the preceding table is equal to about three and a
quarter pounds per head, including the population of Russia, or four
and one-third pounds per head, excluding Russia. But the Continent
of Europe takes from Great Britain one-fourth part of all her exports,
equal to one pound per head additional ; making a consumption of
about four and a quarter pounds per head, including Russia, or five
and one-fourth pounds per head, excluding Russia.

The other three-fourths of the exports from Great Britain form, or

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP VI IL 15

are substantially equal to, the whole supply of cotton goods, made by
European machinery, now consumed in Asia, Africa, South America,
Mexico, Central America, and Australia, — continents and countries
said to contain from eight hundred millions to one billion population.
We have seen that the United States consume twelve pounds per
head ; Great Britain, six pounds per head, and probably more ; Europe,
exclusive of Russia, about five and one-fourth pounds per head ; and
these countries use cotton only as subsidiary to other fabrics, while
the continents yet remaining to be considered use cotton more than
any other fabric. What is their supply ?

The consumption of cotton on the spindles of Great Britain is, in

pounds 1,297,000,000

Less for home use 197,000,000)

Less export to Continent of Europe, about . . 300,000,000 j 497»ooo,ooo

Exported to other countries from Great Britain .... 800,000,000
Exported to other countries from United States .... 40,000,000

At the rate of five pounds per head, or twenty yards of light sheet-
ing thirty-six inches wide, or fifteen yards of drilling at thirty inches
wide, for the full dress of each person, supplied for one year, this
quantity of cotton would furnish only one hundred and sixty-eight
million people, or only seventeen per cent, of the population of the
continents and countries named. On the average, the export of
cotton fabrics from Europe and the United States to Asia, Africa,
South and Central America, Mexico, and Australia is less than one
pound of cotton per head of population. It follows that only one-fifth
part of the population of these continents or countries is yet supplied
with an average quantity of machine-made cotton fabrics required for
a moderate annual consumption.

Cotton fabrics constitute the largest single item of the exports of
Great Britain, and the increase of this export is no longer a question
of the first cost of making the cloth. The fabric made upon modern
machinery will inevitably displace the hand-spun and hand-woven
fabric of Asia and Africa, if it can be placed alongside at a low cost
for transportation. In this may we not find one of the lessons yet to
be learned by us ? May it not be our policy to promote the carry-
ing of our goods to distant lands, by the repeal of all acts restrict-
ing navigation and the exemption of ships from local and national
taxation ?

Tbe paramount advantage of Great Britain over the United States
i*^ the export of cotton hhncs may not be in the cost of manufacture,
^"^ rate of interest, /n su^tnor skill, or other advantage affecting the
^''^t cost. Our 'advantage in proximity to the cotton-field of the

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1 6 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 2876.

South, the wheat-field of the West, and the pastures of the South-
west, may more than* counterbalance any disparity, if any exists, in
these respects; but, in her vast merchant marine, unrestricted by
statute, exempted from taxation, and promoted only by fair payments
for service rendered in carrying mails, and in her thoroughly organ-
ized and permanent consular service. Great Britain possesses advan-
tages over us which can never be surmounted except by adopting the
same course which has given her this present supremacy.

Leaving to our competitors the share in the supply of the world's
need of cotton goods which they have already secured, there yet re-
main, outside of Europe and the United States, — in Asia, Africa, and
South America, — from four to eight hundred million people whose
clothing consists mainly of cotton cloth. It must be spun and woven
by the slow process of hand-work. Can we obtain our share in this
unworked field ? Four hundred million persons, at five pounds per
head, would require from our Southern States four million additional
bales of cotton, and would call for forty millions more cotton spindles
in Europe or America to work them up. Who will raise this cotton,
and where shall these spindles be constructed ?

The empire of China is said to contain about four hundred million
people, who are mainly clothed in cotton. The entire export of cotton
cloth from England and the United States would supply only twenty-
five to thirty millions with five pounds, or twenty yards each, if the
whole supply was used for clothing. A large part of the American
goods are used for the boat-sails and awnings of the immense river
population, and not for clothing.

It thus appears that the cotton fabrics made upon the spindles of
Europe and the United States have as yet been substituted for only a
small portion of the hand-made goods of Asia and Africa, and have
as yet served but a small proportion of the probable demand of South
and Central America, the West Indies, and Australia.

That this demand will vastly increase with the low prices of cotton
and the constantly decreasing cost of manufacturing, cannot be
doubted. Hence the South has little need to fear the want of a
market for all the cotton she can produce for many years to come, —
nor can it be doubted that the North will contest with England the
privilege of serving the increasing need of other nations. It may,
therefore, be permitted the Secretary of Group VIII. to consider,
from the American stand-point, the conditions under which we enter
into friendly rivalry with Great Britain in this branch of industry. It
is assumed that the principal seat of cotton-spinning in the United
States will, for many years, remain in New England, because her

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP VIII. 17

more dense population and the training of .the people in the necessaiy
arts assure it.

In respect to cotton, we are nearer the cotton-field, and therefore
have an advantage over Great Britain. In regard to power, our water-
power has doubtless been an advantage, but with the improvements
in the use of steam that advantage may be disappearing. But in
regard to the use of steam, the cost of* fuel is steadily advancing in
Europe and declining here. In the food of the operatives, we have
the advantage. In the cost of iron, steel, and copper, we are at least
even. In leather, lumber, oil, and starch, we have an advantage. On
the whole, our advantages are such that, so far as the rates of wages
affect the cost of production, we can afford to pay higher wages,
and yet produce cotton cloth at a lower cost. The quality of our
goods may not here be treated in comparison with those of other
nations, but reference may be had to the report of the Chairman of
Group VIII., Mr. Isaac Watts, of Manchester, England, upon that
point. In only one respect has our principal competitor, England, a
great advantage over us, and that is in her better system of raising the
municipal revenues and in the absence of restrictions upon commerce, —
machinery and ships being exempt from taxation.

Thus far we have treated the question in its larger elements. Let
' us now consider it in its least terms, and witness what marks the
progress of the century just ended.

I have assumed a yard-wide fabric, of rather poor quality, as the
unit of manufacture. It would not represent the average . quality
called for in our own land, but would be a fair example of the average
fabric exported from Europe. If made honestly, and not loaded with
other substances than cotton, its cost in this country or in Great
Britain, with cotton at its present price of twelve and a half cents a
pound, would be not far from six cents a square yard ; and the margin
between the good mill and the poor one, or between one country and
another, would not exceed half a cent per square yard. Commerce
now depends on the smallest fractions.

Cotton fabrics are gauged by the number of the yarn of which

they are made, and the number means the number of skeins of eight

hundred and forty yards each contained in one pound avoirdupois.

We may omit all consideration of numbers of yarn coarser than No-

13, or finer than No. 40, as the greater part of the cotton manufacture

of Europe and America lies within these limits. A yard of No. 13

yarn weighs six hundred and forty-one thousandths of a grain ; of No.

40, two hundred and eight thousandths of a grain. The question of

supremacy in the variety and cost of fabrics between Europe and
2 17

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1 8 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

America, therefore, lies within the limit of less than half a grain on
the yard of the yarn that must first be spun and then woven. As
to the cost, the competition is chiefly confined to plain or twilled
fabrics and printed goods. In the cost of manufacture, the competi-
tion on coarse goods is within the limit of half a cent a yard, and on
fine goods within a cent or a cent and a quarter a yard ; in printing
common calicoes, within the limit of half a cent a yard. These small
fractions represent the maximum of difference in the cost of labor and
supplies in a well- or ill-managed mill, or between this country and
Great Britain. It is not intended to admit that there is even so great,
or any difference, only that these figures represent the greatest differ-
ence ever alleged. On the other hand, as we have said, a part, or the
whole even, of the difference in cost of labor and supplies, if it exists,
would.be offset by our proximity to the cotton-field.

A marked feature in this branch of industry is in the few persons
employed. In the United States the whole number of operatives in
all the cotton-factories, bleacheries, and print-works does not exceed
one hundred and fifty to two hundred thousand. A hundred years
ago the slow and arduous labor of almost every woman was needed,
in order to clothe her family, to be applied to the single spindle, now
only seen upon the spinning-wheel that forms one of the curious
ornaments of the parlors of those who are fond of old relics. This
single spindle gave scanty material for the hand-loom, as slowly oper-
ated by some other member of the family or by a neighbor. Now,
one woman clothes more than a thousand others, and in many ways
lives herself more fitly and comfortably.

TEXTILE MACHINERY.

BY SAMUEL WEBBER.

It is somewhat difficult to make any report on the textile machinery
of the Exhibition, applicable to flax and cotton, which shall attempt
any international comparison, from the fact that Great Britain was the
only country, except the United States, which made any attempt at
an exhibition of such machinery, and her collection was so small and
so different in character from the American exhibit that no comparison
can be drawn.

Commencing with the British division, the first object of note was
the roller-gin, for long-stapled cotton, as modified from the McCarthy
patent by Messrs. Piatt, of Oldham, and now adapted to the green-
seed cotton, our common variety, which was a very well-built and

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP VIIL iq

smoothly-working machine, doing a moderate amount of work, with-
out injury to the staple.

The card, drawing-frame, and intermediate roving-frame of Messrs.
Howard & Bullough, of Accrington, contained the only really new
principle in this department, in the application of electricity to the
" stof>-motion,'* rendering it almost instantaneous, and of great value
on the roving-frame, from the fact that " singles," technically so called,
caused by the breaking of one of the rovings at the rollers, are almost
entirely obviated.

The calico-printing machine and engravers* milling-machine, from
Gadd, of Manchester, were beautiful specimens of strong, simple
workmanship, well adapted to their intended purpose.

The warp-tying machine of Messrs. Greenwood & Batley, of York-
shire, was very ingenious, but at the same time necessarily compli-
cated ; and it remains to be proved whether its economical advantages
or practical utility are equal to the ingenuity displayed.

The exhibits of flax and jute machinery, from Messrs. Fairbairn &
Co. and Lawson & Sons., of Leeds, were fair samples of staple English
machinery, massive and strong, well adapted to their purpose, but
possessing no particular novelty of invention.

The American department was more particularly niarked by various
novelties than the British, though sadly deficient as a whole in com-
pleteness, there being no complete set of cotton machinery exhibited,
although many of the separate machines were there from different
makers.

There were several gins for short-staple cotton, exhibited among
the agricultural implements, all seeming to be well made, and capable
of performing a large amount of work, and doing it well.

The cotton-opener of Kitson, of Lowell, Massachusetts, was a de-
parture from the standard practice of late years, in the addition of a
spiked cylinder or " rake," to tear open the hard mats of cotton from
the bale before subjecting them to the blows of the beater, thus ren-
dering the beater more effective in removing the seeds and dirt, and
at the same time saving power, and preventing injury to the staple.

The underflat card of Messrs. Foss & Pevey, of Lowell, was another
decided novelty, aiming to do the work of double carding on a single
machine, thus saving half the floor space in the room, and one-third
of the power used by the double system. The machine promises
well, and is being thoroughly tried, practically, in some of the mills
in Lowell and other places.

The system of cotton machinery (unfortunately not in operation)
shown by the Saco (Maine) Water- Power Machine-Shop approached

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20 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

more nearly to completeness than any other exhibit of the kind, — con-
taining drawing-frame, slubber, intermediate, and fine roving- frames,
and a self-acting mule of the ** Parr-Curtis" pattern. For accuracy of
workmanship, proportion of parts, excellence of finish, and practical
utility it left nothing to be desired, and contained also various in-
genious improvements. It may be considered, as a whole, the best
exhibit of textile machinery from a mechanical point of view.

A set of roving- frames, slubber, intermediate, and fine, was also
exhibited, in operation, by the Providence (Rhode Island) Machine
Company, and fully maintained the reputation of its makers for ease
and accuracy of operation, and economy of power at a high speed.

The combined " fly-frame'* and " speeder'* of Messrs. Mayer & Chat-
terton, built by Fales, Jenks, & Co., of Pawtucket, Rhode Island, was
another noticeable exhibit, showing great ingenuity of combination,
and possessing the most valuable points of the original machines
from which it was derived.

Light and ingenious steel " speeder-flyers" of a new form, possess-
ing great strength, as well as lightness, were exhibited by I. V. Smith,
of Manchester, New Hampshire. These have given great satisfaction
in mills where they have been tested.

Messrs. Eaton & Ayer, of Nashua, New Hampshire, exhibited a
large variety of spools, bobbins, and shuttles, with several ingenious
and useful improvements.

Messrs. George Draper & Sons, of Hopedale, Massachusetts, contrib-
uted their double-adjustable spinning-rings and loom-temples, from the
Dutcher Temple Company ; a ring spinning-frame, with the Sawyer
spindle ; a twister, with a spindle on the same principle ; a spooler,
with the " Wade" bobbin-holder ; and a warper, with a combination
of stop-motions. Their rings and temples are well known in the
American cotton-mills, the Messrs. Draper having supplied nearly if
not quite all the temples used in the United States for many years ;
and the Sawyer spindle, which recent trials have shown to be capable
of producing more yarn in the same time than the ordinary form of
ring-spindle, with a saving in addition of the power consumed, may
be safely classed as an invention of great merit and utility. The
Wade bobbin-holder is also coming rapidly into use, and giving entire
satisfaction wherever introduced. The warper is being practically
tested in various places. As a whole, the exhibit of the Messrs. Draper
shows a great number of novelties of invention.

The Lewiston Machine-Shop, of Lewiston, Maine, exhibited a
warper of excellent construction, thorough finish, and skillful arrange-
ment, which is in use, and highly commended, in a large number of

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP VIIL 2 1

the best mills in the United States. They also showed several looms
of the Thomas patent, weaving a variety of fabrics, and a very superior
loom making seamless bags. These machines may all be highly com-
mended for adaptability to purpose and excellence of construction.

The looms of Crompton, Knowles, and Wood were all worthy of
notice. The original and well-known Crompton loom has been modi-
fied and improved from time to time by successive inventions until it
covers a wide range of figured or fancy-woven fabrics, and is a thor-
oughly well-built, trustworthy, and adaptable machine.

The Lyall Positive-Motion Loom is a comparatively new and de-
cidedly valuable invention, of great scope and usefulness, as was shown
by the two looms, side by side, one weaving wide-jute canvas for floor
oil-cloths, and the other, with the application of the Jacquard harness
motion, producing eight corsets at once, from as many continuous
warps. Besides these, other looms of the same principle were weaving
sheetings and seamless bags. Taken as a whole this collection was
one of the remarkable features of the Exhibition.

Messrs. Butter worth, of Philadelphia, exhibited well-made and
ingenious drying machinery for bleached, dyed, or printed fabrics.

Messrs. Palmer & Kendall, of Middletown, Connecticut, showed a
drying and tentering machine for such fabrics as ginghams, muslins,
mosquito-nettings, etc., which require to have the weft threads held
firmly and squarely at right angles to the warp while being finished.
This machine was very ingenious and well made, and is deserving of
notice.

The twine- and thread-twisting-machines exhibited by Avery, of
Worcester, Massachusetts, are also worthy of notice ; the invention is
an English one.

A very high rank in the scale of mechanical ingenuity must be
accorded to the spool-winding and ticketing machines, both automatic,
exhibited by the Willimantic Company. While the original concep-
tion of these machines is undoubtedly due to Hezekiah Conant, who
does not appear as an exhibitor, the experiments were made and the
machines perfected in the shops and at the expense of the Willimantic
Company, who hold the patents, and they were properly exhibited by
them. Duplicates of the same machines were shown in the British
section, in the exhibit of Messrs. J. & P. Coats ; but as it was clearly
shown to the Judges that the machines were built in America, and
had never been out of the country, they were precluded from taking
any notice of them, although Mr. Conant, the originator of them,
formerly in the employment of the Willimantic Company, is now con-
nected with the Messrs. Coats, in the management of the Conant

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22 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

Thread Company, at Pawtucket, Rhode Island, from which place the
machines were sent. The Willimantic Company also exhibited a ring
spinning-frame in operation on No. 160 yarn, at a speed of seven
thousand five hundred revolutions of the spindle per minute. This
frame was built by the Lowell Machine-Shop, and was fillfed, on one
side, by spindles of the Sawyer patent, and on the other by a spindle
which was a combination of the Sawyer and the Pearl. It has not
been deemed practicable heretofore to spin such fine numbers on any
machine but the mule. Specimens of their product in all its stages
were exhibited; and the excellence of their thread is a sufficient
comment on the perfection of their processes and machinery.

Another automatic spool-winding machine, which attracted much
attention, was exhibited by the Clark Thread Company, of Newark.
New Jersey, but it was an English invention, dating back some ten
years.

The Messrs. Hope, of Providence, Rhode Island, exhibited panto-
graph engraving machines for calico-printers, of excellent construc-
tion. These machines are well known and in general use in the
print-works in the United States.

This completes the list of the more noticeable machines exhibited.
The rapid growth and great extension of the cotton manufacture in
the United States, now employing nearly ten million spindles, com-
bined with the high cost of manual labor, has caused a vast amount
of ingenuity to be devoted to the construction of labor-saving machi-
nery, and we regret that a more full exhibit of our cotton machinery
was not made, and one or more complete systems shown in operation.

The same causes, combined with the former high prices of the
metals used in construction, to a great extent, have led to the adoption
of lighter forms of machines than are generally used in England, and
the English Judges were at first disposed to find a want of strength
in machines which the Americans have found to be amply sufficient
for their purpose.

The improvements made in cotton-spinning in the United States
were well illustrated by a comparison of the old water-twist frame,
built by Samuel Slater, after Ark Wright's original model, and exhib-
ited by the Providence Machine Company, with the ** Sawyer-spindle"
ring frame, shown by the Messrs. Draper, or the Lowell Machine-
Shop frame of the Willimantic Company.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP VIIL 23

LINENS.

BY SAMUEL WEBBER.

The cultivation and fabrication of flax are among the oldest indus-
tries of which we have any record; and the mummy-cloths of Eg}'pt,
and the various references to fine linen in the Hebrew Scriptures, bear
evidence to the very great antiquity of this manufacture.

Nearly all the countries of Europe sent linens, in some form or
another, to the Centennial Exhibition, while, owing to the national
interest in and extensive use of cotton, the United States made but
a very meagre display, and that partially manufactured from im-
ported flax.

By far the largest and best proportion of the flax fabrics came from
Great Britain, and the collection shown by Messrs. John S. Brown &
Sons, of Belfast, Ireland, may be considered as, on the whole, the lead-
ing exhibit, consisting of table-linen, diapers, sheetings, shirtings,
handkerchiefs, lawns, and yarns of great fineness and evenness, and
of especial beauty of design and skill in weaving in the damask table-
linen.

With a less full assortment, but of almost the same class, Messrs.
Richardson, Sons, & Owden. of Belfast, presented equally beautiful
table damask and fronting- linen, and handkerchiefs of great beauty
and smoothness, as well as lawns and holland. In quality there was
little choice between the two.

Messrs. Henry Matier & Co., of Belfast, exhibited embroidered
handkerchiefs and cuffs and collars, which were greatly admired for
the fineness of the fabric and the exquisite beauty of the embroidery,
together with bleached and printed linens.

Robert McBride & Co., of Belfast, showed bleached and printed
linen lawns and linen and cotton fabrics of great excellence. It would
occupy too much space to call attention to the merits of every exhib-
itor in the British department. We can simply say that all were
excellent. Messrs. Fenton, Connor, & Co.. of Belfast; Dicksons^
Ferguson, & Co., and the York Street Flax-Spinning Company, of the
same place ; and the Greenmount Spinning Company, all made large
and superior exhibits.

Messrs. Dunbar, McMaster, & Co., of Gilford, Ireland ; Marshall
& Co., of Leeds ; and Thomas Ainsworth, of Cleator, Cumberland,
exhibited linen threads of well-known quality, among which the linen
floss of Messrs. Dunbar, McMaster, & Co. was especially noticeable.

The Scotch manufacturers contributed a different class of goods, —

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24 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

heavy and substantial fabrics, made of linen or jute, or both in com-
bination, and suited to all the ordinary purposes of life, such as table-
and bed-linens, crash, huckabacks, and other toweling; butcher's
linen, floor- and stair-cloths, paddings, shoe-linings, drills, osnaburgs,
ducks, buckram, horse-cloths, grain- and salt-sacks, burlaps, bagging,
carpet yarns, etc. Among the exhibitors deserving mention were
Messrs. James Normand & Co., of Dysart, Fifeshire ; William Laird
& Co., of Forfar; and the Cox Brothers and Frank Stewart Sande-
man, of Dundee.

Crossing the British Channel to Belgium, we find the exhibit of
Jacques de Brandt, of Alost, especially noticeable for the beauty of
design and accuracy of execution in damask table-linen. Messrs.
Van Damme Brothers, of Roulers, showed indigo-blue linen of excel-
lent quality, for blouses and pantaloon stuffs for the working-classes.
Rey, senior, of Brussels, contributed a very large and excellent variety
of table-, bed-, and household-linen, of medium fineness, but superior
quality. William Wilford, of Tamise, exhibited very superior canvas,
and the Govaert Brothers, of Alost, also showed good canvas, and bags
remarkable for quality and cheapness.

France was represented, in table-linen, by the house of Meunier &
Co., of Paris, whose damasks were exquisite in design and workman-
ship; and in linen thread by Vrau & Co., of Lille, and Hassebroucq
Brothers, of Comines, both exhibits being excellent for strength and
evenness of fabric.

Holland sent a variety of substantial fabrics of flax for domestic
use, all serviceable, but none especially noted for fineness or beauty of
design. The exhibits of J. Eilas, of Strijp; Nieuwenhuizen and Van
Stratum, of Geldrop; J. H. Terhorst, of Ryssen ; and L. Planteijdt,
of Krommenie, were all noticed as useful and serviceable fabrics.

Sweden was represented by G. Stenburg's Widow, of Jonkoping,
who exhibited damask table-linen of good quality and beauty of
design.

Germany sent a fine collection in the combined exhibit of the flax-
manufacturers of Wiirtemberg, of great variety and excellent quality;
and Joseph Meyer, of Dresden, displayed damask table-linen of good
design and fine finish.

Austria was admirably represented by the combined exhibit of
Messrs. Regenhart, Raymann, and Kufferle, of Vienna, whose damask
table-linen, with colored borders, showed surpassing excellence in
design, combination of colors, and workmanship in the execution.
Carl Siegl, of Vienna, exhibited a variety of staple linen goods of
great evenness and beauty.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP VJIL 25

Norway sent excellent canvas and twines from the Christiania Sail-
Cloth Manufactory.

Italy was represented by the table-damasks and other fabrics of the
Remaggi Brothers, of Navacchio, Pisa.

Portugal sent a number of exhibits of flax fabrics of various kinds,
among which I have noted the linen drills of Bahia & Genro, of
Oporto ; the bed- and table-linen of Antonio da Costa Guimaraes, of
Guimaraes ; and Manuel M. R. Guimaraes, and the National Sail-Cloth
Company, of Lisbon.

Spain contributed table-damasks of excellent quality, manufactured
by Jaime Sado, of Barcelona; hand-spun bed-linen, by the Sons of
Salvador Landa, Calatayud, Province of Saragossa; and a variety of
flax fabrics from other exhibitors ; also hemp shoe-thread, of good
quality, from Marques, Caralt, & Co., of Barcelona.

Russia, as might be expected, excelled in this branch. Her most
noticeable exhibit was that of Messrs. Hille & Dietrich, of Girardovo,
in the Province of Warsaw, consisting of a great variety of fabrics, —
colored damask table-linen of superior excellence in design and com-
bination, fringed duck dessert- and library- cloths, bed- and fronting-
linens, Turkish towels, ducks, and drills, etc., all of excellent and
serviceable quality.

Baron Stieglitz, of Narva, exhibited very superior sail-cloth.

James Gribanoff 's Sons, of Oostioog, Province of Vologda, showed
a very fine display of linen yarns and cloths, table damask, fronting-
linen, and handkerchiefs, all of great excellence and beauty.

Lange & Co., of Moscow, had excellent samples of woven hose for
fire purposes, and very good yarns and cloths were sent by Alexan-
droff & Alofoozoff", of Kazan.

Compared with the foreign contributions, the display from the
United States was but small, and is noted as follows. The Barbour
Flax-Spinning Company, of Paterson, New Jersey, exhibited linen
threads, which in strength, color, finish, and evenness compared favor-
ably with the best English threads of Marshall. The American Linen
Thread Company, of Mechanicsville, Saratoga County, New York,
also made a fine display of threads and twines. The exhibit of woven
goods was confined to the crash towelings of the Webster Linen-Mills,
of Webster, Massachusetts, and the stair-drills, by the same company
and by the Stark Mills, of Manchester, New Hampshire, who also
exhibited coarse diaper with flax warp and cotton filling. All these
articles were useful and excellent in their way, but bore no com-
parison, as evidence of skill and progress, with the linen fabrics of
Europe.

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26 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

The United States possess every variety of soil necessary for the
growth of flax, and half a century since, before the enormous develop-
ment of the cotton manufacture, it was a common article of cultivation
in many parts of the country, and was spun and woven by hand into
domestic fabrics in many households. Acres of flax are now culti-
vated for the seed in many of the States of the Union, but the ripened
fibre which is thus obtained is too coarse and harsh for manufacturing
purposes. Good flax-fibre was, however, shown at the Exhibition,
from Canada, and we believe its cultivation for the purpose of manu-
facture, and its conversion into yarn and cloth, to be one of the possi-
bilities of the future, and one which will amply repay attention and
examination by thoughtful men. It does not seem that the amount
of hand-labor required to fit the fibre for the machines, now so largely
employed for spinning, need be so great as to form an insuperable
obstacle.

FIBRES.

BY SAMUEL WEBBER.

The best-known and commonly-used fibres of vegetable origin,
other than cotton, are those of flax and hemp, of which the propor-
tion shown by the United States was very small. Fair specimens
were exhibited from West Virginia, Oregon, and Kentucky ; but, as
was remarked in relation to flax fabrics, the growth of the cotton
manufacture seems to have entirely overshadowed this industry.
Canada, also, sent two exhibits of flax of fair quality.

Nearly all the exhibits of these fibres of any consequence were
from Europe.

Austria sent flax from Moravia, of excellent quality, and hemp from
Hungary.

Italy contributed the finest specimens of hemp, from Bologna.

Holland showed three very fine collections of flax. Portugal was
represented by forty-nine exhibitors of flax and four of hemp ; some
of the flax was short in fibre, but of very fine quality.

Spain had twenty-five exhibitors of flax and twenty-two of hemp,
covering a wide range of length and quality of staple.

Russia contributed thirteen collections of flax and three of hemp,
all of excellent quality; and Belgium sent two very fine exhibits of
flax, of exceeding fineness and beauty.

A feature of great interest, however, was the display, from various
tropical and semi-tropical countries, of fibres little known to us, ex-
cept by their products, but which seem capable, by the application of

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP VIIL 27

suitable machinery, of becoming of immense value in the future, as
subjects of manufacture.

The most noticeable of these was the Manila hemp, Musa textilis,
from the Philippine Islands, which we usually see in the form of cord-
age, but which has a fibre capable, like those of flax and hemp, of
extreme subdivision by proper treatment, being composed of a col-
lection of finer fibres united by a glutinous matter, which is soluble in
water, and admits of the reduction of the apparently coarse, long fibre
exhibited (in some cases reaching twelve or thirteen feet in length)
into a fibre sufficiently fine for delicate fabrics.

Samples of these fabrics were exhibited in the collection from the
Philippine Islands, and were well worthy of attention.

In the same collection were also to be found numerous specimens
of the ** pina" cloth, and the fibres from which they were woven, as
well as those of the banana, and other plants of the same genus. The
fibres of the agave or yucca, from Mexico, were also very suggestive.
Hammocks, nets, ** grass-cloth" (eo called), and paper of astonishing
strength were exhibited by the local governments of Yucatan and
Hidalgo, manufactured from this material; and its abundance in
Mexico and Central America seems to make it a subject worthy the
notice of manufacturers, if some ready means can be discovered of
cleaning the fibre from the fleshy part of the leaf.

Besides these there were a vast number of less-known fibres exhib-
ited, the " Phormium," or New Zealand flax, being the most familiar.

All the British colonies sent a greater or less variety of this and
other fibres, the Fourcroya gigantcaa, the ramie, the pita, the plan-
tain, the banana, the pineapple, the wild fig, the aloe, the silk-grass,
and the mahoe or hibiscus being among their contributions, forty-
nine different varieties, including the above, being contributed from
the Mauritius alone, and twenty-six from Queensland. Twenty dif-
ferent varieties were sent by Robert Prestoe, Esq., the Government
botanist of Trinidad ; eight from the Bahamas ; and five from British
Guiana.

Brazil also contributed several valuable fibres, the asclepias, urenas,
palms (of different species), bilbergia, and fourcroya being the prin-
cipal ones.

From Spain came a great variety of samples of the esparto grass,
showing how largely it can be improved in quality by cultivation.
This material is at present almost exclusively used for paper-stock,
but was shown to be available for a great variety of purposes. Hats,
baskets, and other articles were exhibited, which had been made of
it, and if, as reported, it will grow in the sand where nothing else will,

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28 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

it is Worthy of attention. The Spanish-Portuguese Indian colonies,
China, Japan, and Portuguese Africa also sent a variety of fibres, the
ramie or China-grass being exhibited in fabrics in the Chinese and
Japanese departments. Mats and matting from reeds, rushes, and
other similar plants were shown by China, Japan, Spain, Portugal,
and their colonies ; and were deserving of praise for workmanship
and ingenuity.

Those of us who can readily recall the whole history of the alpaca
manufacture in Great Britain, and the adaptation of existing ma-
chinery, with slight modifications, to the purpose, by Sir Titus Salt,
and who have also noted the enormous growth of the manufacture
of jute in Scotland, in and about Dundee especially, can easily imagine
that there is destined to be a great industry developed out of the
manufacture of the Manila hemp, the sisal-grass, the ramie, and the
American aloe ; and, with this opinion, we can but think the display of
the great variety of fibres at the Centennial Exhibition has been of
great value in bringing them to the notice of practical men. There
seems to be no more difficulty in applying existing machinery to these
fibres than to alpaca or jute, if the fibres can be first freed from their
woody or fleshy coverings ; and that question does not seem to present
any insuperable difficulty, though it may require time and patience to
develop the most economical method.

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REPORTS ON AWARDS.

GROUP VIII.

I. Boott Cotton Mills, Lowell, Mass., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the excellence and even weaving of their cords and extra
inlls.

2. Wamsutta Mills, New Bedford, Mass., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the uniformity, excellence, and purity of their well-known
fabrics.

3. Chicopee Manufacturing Co., Chicopee Falls, Mass., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for extra fine and for extra heavy cotton flannel of very superior
quality ; also for the firm and uniform quality of their heavy y sheeting, even and well
made in every respect.

4. Berkley Co., Providence, R. I., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.
Report. — Commended for the superior quality of lawns and nainsooks, and esi>ecially for
fine sateens, No. 100 warp, 150 filling, 350 picks filling to the inch; the sateen being one
of the finest, and supposed to be the very finest, fabric made in the United States. It
deserves special mention for the great skill required in its production.

5. Monadnock Mills, Claremont, N. H., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the excellent quality of the Marseilles quilts, and their adapta-
tion to popular wants.

6. Slater Cotton Co., Providence, R. I., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the very even quality of their bleached shirtings known as
Ih^ " Pride of the West."

7. Boston Manufacturing Co., Waltham, Mass., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Firm, strong, and thoroughly well manufactured medium fabrics, of special
erccUence.

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30 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

8. Great Falls Manufacturing Co., Great Falls, N. H., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — A very full assortment of thoroughly well manufactured goods ; well prepared
and finished for service, both bleached and unbleached.

9. L3rman Mills, Holyoke, Mass., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for excellence in the manufacture of Victoria lawns, twilled
cambric, and cords.

10. The James Y. Smith Manufacturing Co., Providence, R. I., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.
Report. — Commended for evenness, purity, and good finish.

II. Tremont and Suffolk Mills, Lowell, Mass., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.
Report. — Commended especially for the flexibility and uniformity of their medium cotton
flannel, and for serviceable sateen jeans.

12. Massachusetts Cotton Mill, Lowell, Mass., U. S.

COTTON FABRIC.

Report. — Plain, serviceable standard and medium sheeting; round and well-spun yam,
evenly woven, especially fitted for common wear, at low cost.

13. Continental Mills, Lewiston, Me., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report, — Commended for unusually firm, pure, and well-manufactured medium fabrics

14 Alabama and Georgia Manufacturing Co., West Point, Ga., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the great excellence and durable quality of their heavy standard
sheetings.

15. Evansville Cotton Manufacturing Co., Crescent City Mills, EvansviUe,

Ind., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Heavy sheetings made from good stock, even, well carded, and excellent in all
resi>ects.

16. Barker Mills, Auburn, Me., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the special evenness of yam and excellence of weaving in their
brown and bleached fabrics.

17. Hill Manufacturing Co., Lewiston, Me., U. S.

COTTON FABRIC.

Report. — Commended for uniformity in the quality of their fabric.

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GROUP VIII. 31

18. B. B. & R. Knight, Providence, R. I., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the full line of bleached cottons, excellent in all respects, in
their several styles.

19. Langdon Manufacturing Co., Manchester, N. H., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.
Report. — Commended for the very superior quality and for the purity of finish of their
fine and extra fine shirting.

20. Dwight Manufacturing Co., Chicopee, Mass., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — A full exhibit of fine fabrics, bleached and unbleached, of special excellence
in all respects.

21. Androscoggin Mills, Lewiston, Me., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the excellence of their seamless bags, the even, smooth texture
of their wide sheetings of the higher grade, and for the general uniformity of their fabrics.

22. Cabot Manufacturing Co., Brunswick, Me., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — A uniform quality of bleached goods, well made for service and durability.

23. Bates Manufacturing Co., Lewiston, Me., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the general excellence in the style and design of their Mar-
seilles and crochet quilts, and of their fancy woven white goods.

24. Stark Mills, Manchester, N. H., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report, — Commended for very even spinning and weaving in their heavy standard sheet-
ings, and for the very superior quality of their seamless bags.

25. Ponemah Mills, Tafkville, Conn., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the excellence of their extra fine printing cloths.

26. Pocahontas Manufacturing Co., Putnam, Conn., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report, — Brown and bleached cottons, of medium grade, made and finished for dura-
bility.

27. Naumkeag Steam Cotton Co., Salem, Mass., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for excellence and uniform quality of their plain and twilled wide
sheetings, ^ and ^ wide. 31

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32 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

28. Nashua Co., Nashua, N. H., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for bleached and unbleached cotton fabrics, of medium g)ade&
and excellent quality in all resi>ects.

29. Davol Mills, Fall River, Mass., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the superior quality of their serge twilled lining fabric, fine
honeycomb cloaking, sateens, and striped piqu6.

30. Walcott & Campbell, New York Mills, Oneida Co., N. Y., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Fine bleached cottons, finn, uniform, well bleached and finished; of very

superior quality.

31. Millville Manufacturing Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SPECIAL COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for excellent Tillott cloth ; also for tracing muslin, superior in
quality and water-proof, to be used with ink or pencil.

32. Hassan Ali, Yiemen, Arabia Petrea.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the excellence in fabric and color, and adaptability to purpose,
of the striped tent curtains.

33. Batllo Brothers, Barcelona, Spain.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — A large and excellent display of bleached cotton fabrics, adapted to ordinary
use, and of economical manufacture.

34. The Government of Turkey, Constantinople, Turkey.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the large and varied collection of cotton fabrics, illustrative of
the costumes of the country, and displaying ^ill in coloring and ingenuity in weaving, as
well as adaptability to the wants of the people.

35. Oglou Ohanes Mourouk, Brousse, Turkey.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the excellent quality and economical production of the Turkish
bath towels.

36. T. & D. Wilson & Co., Glasgow, Scotland.

COTTON FABRICS.
Report. — Commended for the great variety and excellent quality of the cotton fabrics,
notably the Swiss mulls, Victoria lawns, and other goods of that class, as well as for the
beauty and excellence of the curtain stuffs.

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GROUP VIJI. j3

37. Anjos Cunha Ferreira & Co., Lisbon, Portugal.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report, — Commended for very excellent display and variety of colored cotton goods,
suitable for the laboring classes, especially their cotton handkerchiefs.

38. Augusto Frederico Etur, Lisbon, Portugal.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report, — Commended for economy and adaptability to purpose in their cotton handker-
chief and prints.

39. Zimin Brothers, Zooieva, Moscow, Russia.

COTTON FABRICS,

Report. — Commended for excellence in quality, and economy in price, of dyed Turkey red
cottons, used by the common people.

40. Mariano Regordosa & Co., Barcelona, Spain.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report, — Commended for the evenness of fabric and excellence of color of the Adrianople
red yams.

41. Oliver & Fonrodona, Mataro, Barcelona, Spain.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report, — Commended for the excellence and adaptability to purpose of the cotton sail
duck.

42. La Obrera Mataronense, Mataro, Barcelona, Spain.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report, — Commended for economy and adaptation to purpose of the heavy cotton fabrics
exhibited, as well as excellence in quality.

43. Jos6 Puig & Co., Barcelona, Spain.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the excellent quality and great variety of the bleached cotton
fabrics exhibited, with the trade-mark " La Fortuna."

44. Qeronimo Roiz de la Parra, La Cavada, Province of Santander, Spain.

COTTON FABRICS.
Report, — Bleached cotton fabrics of even, pure, and very substantial quality, well spun
and woven.

45. John Garelin, Ivanovo- Vosnesensk, Wladimir, Russia.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report, — Commended for economy in cost and adaptability to popular wants of the plain
and printed cottons.

3 33

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34 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

46. John Koushin, Serpookhov, Moscow, Russia.

COTTON FABRICS.
Report. — Commended for especial excellence in the exhibit of cotton, in every state of
progress, from the bale, to cloth of great evenness, firmness, and beauty.

47. Cotton Spinning Mill of Balsa, Vallongo, Portugal.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the general good quality of the fabrics.

48. Lisbon Spinning and Weaving Co., Lisbon, Portugal.

COTTON FABRICS.
Report. — Commended for great variety, general excellence, and adaptability to the wants
of the people.

49. Xabregas Cotton Manufacturing Co., Lisbon, Portugal.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for excellence in colored cambrics and bleached and brown cotton

50. C. M. Raffin*s Widow & Son, Paris, Prance.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report, — Commended for the excellent quality, both in fabric and color, of the tarlatans
and muslins exhibited.

51. Gujer Brunner, Uster, Zurich, Switzerland.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for excellence and economy in their exhibit of white and colored
cotton bed and table furniture.

52. Nydalens Company, Christiania, Norway.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — A large and excellent display of plain and colored cotton fabrics.

53. Wauregan Mills, Wauregan, Conn., U. S.

COTTON FABRICS.
Report. — Commended for the special merit of their fabrics, known as the *' Wauregan

54. Jos6 TolrA & Co., Barcelona, Spain.

MADAPOLLAM AND OTHER FINE COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for fineness of texture, good quality, and good finish.

55. Manuel Alvares Montes, Oporto, Portugal.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for variety, durability, and excellence of cotton fabrics.

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GROUP VIIL 35

56. Qovemment Cotton Factory, Sakai, Setzu, Japan.

COTTON AND COTTON FABRICS.

Report, — Commended for the completeness and excellence of the exhibit of cotton, raw
ind in various states of progress of manufacture.

57. J. T. Berg, Ntttts, Floda, Sweden.

COTTON YARNS.

Report. — Commended for the evenness of the cotton yams and the excellence of the
samples of cotton in its various states of preparation for yam, and also for the excellence
and variety of the colors in which the yam is dyed.

58. Morse, Kaley, & Co., Milford, N. H., U. S.

KNITTING COTTON.

Report. — Commended for the excellence and adaptability to purpose of their white and
colored knitting cotton.

59. Doila Juana Reyes, Province of Batangas, Philippine Islands.

COTTON YARNS.

Report. — Commended for the excellence and adaptability of the cotton yam.

60. Shaffner & Stringfellow, Philadelphia, Pa., U; S.

KNITTING COTTON.

Report. — Commended for remarkably fine qualities in all respects. Very full assortment
of colors. In all respects an admirable exhibit.

61. Hadley Company, Holyoke, Mass., U. S.

COTTON YARNS AND TWINES.

Report. — ^An excellent display of warp yams, shoe threads, and seine and harness twines ;
all of great evenness and perfection.

62. J. U. Schlsepfer, Waldstadt, Switzerland.

MULLS AND NAINSOOKS.

Report, — Commended for the very even weaving of their hand-made and power-loom
goods, especially in the fine yams, varying from No. 80 to No. 240, and from 75 to 160
inches wide. Power-looms are used for goods as fine as No. 160 yarn. Mulls and nain-
sooks are most excellent in quality.

63. Whittenton Manufacturing Co., Taunton, Mass., U. S.

COTTONADES AND DRESS GOODS.

Report, — Commended for superior excellence in quality and design; good combination
of colors in great variety. Twilled mixed cottonades, especially well colored and harmo-
nized. Fancy cotton cassimercs, patterns choice in design, fabric of great strength and gen-
eral good quality. Dress goods, colors and styles well designed.

64. Wortendyke Manufacturing Co., Wortendyke, N. J., U. S.

COTTON LAMP WICKING.

Report, — Commended for the good quality and softness of their products.

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REPORTS ON AWARDS.

65. Manville Co., Providence, R. I., U. S.

BLEACHED COTTON FABRICS AND COLORED JACONETS.

Report. — Commended for the peculiar excellence of their 6ne bleached shirtings, and
for the superior smoothness of fabric, strength and fineness of texture, and excellence and
variety of their jaconets.

66. Wm. Wood & Co., PhUadelphU, Pa., U. S.

COTTONADES AND COTrON CASSIMERES.
Report, — Commended for excellence in styles, comprising a very large assortment;
imitation of fine woolen cassimeres, very good ; superior fabric, durability, and economy.

67. Lowell Bleachery, Lowell, Mass., U. S.

COTTON GOODS, AS EXAMPLES OF BLEACHING AND DYEING.

Report, — Commended for purity and whiteness, especially of the long cloth finish.

68. Crestuma Spinning Co., Peira, Aveiro, Portugal.

COTTON YARNS.

Report, — Even, smooth, good spinning thread.

69. Whitfield Manufacturing Co., Corinth, Miss., U. S.

COTTON YARNS.
Report, — Cotton yarn of excellent quality, produced directly from the seed cotton without
the use of the ordinary gin, by an equivalent apparatus attached to the card.

70. Thomar Royal Spinning Co., Thomar, Portugal.

COTTON PRODUCT.
Report. — Brown, bleached, and dyed cotton yarns of good quality and at reasonable
price.

71. Neilson, Storer, & Sons, Johnstone, near Paisley, Scotland.

KNITTING AND EMBROIDERY COTTON YARN.

Report, — Commended for the peculiar softness, flexibility, evenness, fitness for their in-
tended purposes.

72. John Hawkins & Sons, Manchester, England.

BLEACHED SHIRTINGS.

Report, — Commended for the especial fineness, even texture, and excellent bleach of
their highest grades of goods, combined with softness and purity.

73. Salvador, Pages, & Co., Barcelona, Spain.

BLEACHED COTTON GOODS.

Report. — Commended for the very substantial quality, pure finish, and very even yam
from which they are woven.

74. Assetto di Qraziani Brothers, Chieri, Turin, Italy.

COTTON QUILTS AND BLANKETS.

Report. — Commended for even quality in the weaving and for excellent taste in the
designing.

Digitized by VjOOQIC

GROUP VIII. 37

75. Mechanical Weaving Co., Linden, near Hanover, Germany.

COTTON VELVETS AND VELVETEENS.
Report. — ^This is one of the most artistic exhibits in the Exposition; texture and finish
superb; variety and blending of colors excellent; elegant, durable, exquisitely tasteful.
The colors and fabric blend so harmoniously, and are so exceedingly well done, as to give
the appearance and finish of silk velvet. The new black in various shades is full of Hght
and lustre. A complete triumph, in both finish and color.

76. Volarte Brothers & Conill, Barcelona, Spain.

PIQUE CLOTHS, TUFTED.

Report. — Commended for excellence and variety of designs and patterns; superior work
manship and tufting; general excellence.

77. Josef Parma, Tichau, Moravia, Austria.

MARSEILLES TUFTED COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for excellence in material; manufacture of choice patterns; re
markably good work in tufting; great variety of patterns.

78. Emile Idiers, Anderghem,^ near Brussels, Belgium.

DYED COTTON YARNS.
Report. — Commended for depth, durability, variety, and delicacy in coloring, with the
best quality of material in all respects.

79. Ferguson Brothers, Holme Head Works, near Carlisle, England.

DYED SILESIAS, SATEENS.

Report. — Commended for fineness of texture, superior colors, superb dyeing, with a finish'
of remarkable excellence. The harmony and blending of colors are exceedingly fine, also
in great variety.

80. Anjos & Co., Lisbon, Portugal.

DYED COTTON FABRICS.
Report. — Commended for general excellence of indigo-blue dyed cotton fabrics, with
peculiar adaptability to the wants of the masses.

81. A. Baertsoen & Buysse, Ghent, Belgium.

DYED VELVETEEN OF COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for durability and general excellence, richness in finish, and har-
mony of colors.

82. W. Swinkels, Helmond, Netherlands.

DYED COTTON YARNS.

Report. — ^A very fine assortment of high colors; the dyeing of wonderful brilliancy and
evident durability.

83. Azmoos Weaving Mills, Azmoos, St. Gallen, Swiuerland.

WOVEN COLORED COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for novelty in design, with great and harmonious variety of colors,
excellence in smoothness of texture and durability.

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38 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

84. Jaumandren ft Co., Barcelona, Spain.

PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.
Report. — Commended for excellent quality and great variety of samples of printed cali-
coes, adapted to ordinary use, showing great skill and ample resources for production.

85. A. Chiffray, Narbonne, near Rouen, France.

FURNITURE HANGINGS.
Report, — Commended for the beauty of design, excellence of combination of colors, and
adaptability to purpose, of the cotton and linen hangings and curtains.

86. Nicholas Polooshin, Ivanovo-Vosnesensk, Wladimir, Russia.

PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for superior excellence in coloring, and neatness of design and
execution, in madder and steam colors, on cambrics and fancy woven cotton goods.

87. W. Menshikoff ft Sons, Ivanovo-Vosnesensk, Wladimir, Russia.

PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for economy and adaptability of printed cotton fabrics, for popular

88. A. Gros ft Co., Bnichsal, Germany.

COLORFJ) COTTON VELVETS.

Report. — ^These goods are low-priced, and for the lower grades exhibit good workman-
ship and remarkable variety in bright colors.

89. Carl Kauffmann, Reutlingen, Germany.

COLORED WOVEN QUILTS.

Report. — Commended for excellence in design, weaving, colors, economy.

90. Paul Lopatin, Ivanovo-Vosnesensk, Wladimir, Russia.

PRINTED COTTONS.

Report. — Commended for excellence in design and execution of printed calicoes in light
colors and combinations, and also beauty of design and skill in coloring of furniture prints.

91. Catherine Koovajef, Dimir, Russia.

PRINTED COTTONS.

Report. — Commended for excellence in madder pink " frock plates."

92. Lisbon Cotton Dyeing and Printing Co., Lisbon, Portugal.

PRINTED COrrON FABRICS.

Report. — A large and well-executed assortment of printed calicoes and furniture chintzes.

93. Alexis Possylin, Ivanovo-Vosnesensk, Wladimir, Russia.

PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.
Report, — Commended for the excellence in design, colors, and printing, as well as the
economy of production, of the printed cotton handkerchiefs for the use of the peasants.

Digitized by VjOOQIC

GROUP VIII, 39

94. Millville Manufacturing Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SIL£SL\S, WINDOW HOLLANDS, AND UMBRELLA CLOTHS.

Report. — Specialty : fine colors, fabrics of good finish.

95. Social Manufacturing Co., Providence, R. I., U. S.

SILESIAS.

Report. — Commended for the variety of colors as being very remarkable; also for the
evenness of the fabrics ; admirable in both respects.

96. Bass, Abrate, & Co., Turin, Italy.

COTTON COUNTERPANES AND BLANKETS.

Report. — Commended for excellence in design and fabrics, and adaptability to purpose.

97. Malmo Cotton Manufacturing Co., Malmb, Sweden.

COLORED COTTON FABRICS.

Report, — Strong fabrics for common uses ; durable anc} economical ; excellent coloring
for common goods.

98. Alessio Brothers, Milan, Italy.

COLORED COTTON YARNS.

Report. — Commended for evenness and excellence in color and smoothness of thread in
the Turkey red cotton yams.

99. Bernardo Meda, Monxa, Milan, Italy.

COLORED COTTON YARNS.

Report, — Commended for the excellence in color of the Turkey red yams.

100. I. V. Gentiluomi & Co., Pisa, Italy.

COLORED COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for excellence and adaptability, in fabric, design, color, and variety,
of colored cotton fabrics.

loi. Collective Exhibit of the Circuit of M. Gladbacb, Germany.

COTTON AND MIXED GOODS.

Report. — Commended for great variety of fabrics, excellence of design; well made
throughout; durable, economical; altogether a thoroughly well assorted exhibit.

102. George Stratford, Jersey City, N. J., U. S.

OAKUM.

Report. — Commended for excellent quality and softness of texture.

103. BalhSo Cotton Printing Factory, Oporto, Portugal.

PRINTED COTTONS.

Report. — Commended for general adaptability to purpose, at a reasonable price, of the
iodigo-blue fabrics.

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40 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

104. Ricart & Co., Barcelona, Spain.

PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for great variety and excellence in design, color, and execution,
in printed cambrics and calicoes, fitted for general use.

105. Jos6 Ferrer & Co., Barcelona, Spain.

PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.
Report. — Commended for great variety and excellence in design and color, and economy
of production in printed calicoes.

106. Juan Achon, Barcelona, Spain.

PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for beauty of design, excellence in color and execution in printed
cotton fabrics for furniture covers and curtains.

107. Joaquin Casas & Jover, Barcelona, Spain.

PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for excellence in cloth and printing, neatness in design, and su-
periority in color, in black and indigo-blue printed calicoes.

108. C. T. Stork & Co., Hengeloo, Netherlands.

MADRAS GINGHAMS AND MADRAS HANDKERCHIEFS.

Report. — Especially well made for general use ; good material throughout, in fabric and
coloring matter ; economically made, and will be economical in service.

109. Eduardo Borras, Barcelona, Spain.

PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended from consideration of economy in the low price, great variety, and
general adaptability of the printed cotton handkerchiefs.

no. Henri Fierz, Zurich, Switzerland.

PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for beauty of design, and excellence in coloring and execution, of
Adrianople red printing in cambrics, handkerchiefs, shawls, and chintzes.

III. WallensUdt Fancy Cotton Goods Mills, Wallenstadt, Switzerland.

WOVEN COLORED GINGHAMS AND HANDKERCHIEFS.

Report. — Commended for peculiar and excellent combination of colors, strong but fine
fabric, great variety, durability of colors and fabric, novelty in method of dyeing, and ex-
cellence of colors and dyeing.

112. Salis Schwabe & Co., Manchester, England.

PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for variety and elegance in design, coloring, and engraving in
printed cotton fabrics for dresses and furniture chintzes, and madder colors of great excel-
lence and beauty.

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GROUP VJIL 41

113. Roeffs ft Co., Siegfeld, Germany.

PRINTED COTTON HANDKERCHIEFS.
Rupert. — Commended for great variety and good execution, taste in design, and brilliancy
tn colors, as well as for novelty in style, in printed handkerchiefs.

1 14. N. Garelin ft Sons, Ivanovo- Vosnesensk, Wladimir, Russia.

PLAIN AND PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.
Report, — An admirable exhibit of cotton in all forms, from the staple as grown in the
Caucasus, through all its various processes of manufacture, into remarkably level yams,
smooth and firm cloth, and dyed and printed fabrics of great excellence in color, design,
and execution.

115. Pacific Mills, Lawrence, Mass., U. S.

PRINTED CALICOES, LAWNS, AND PERCALES.

Report. — Commended for taste and variety in design, clear colors, and sharp printing;
especial excellence in lawns and percales.

116. David S. Brown ft Co., for the Gloucester Manufacturing Co. and the An-
cona Printing Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.
Report, — To the Gloucester Manufacturing Co. for excellence in design, colors, and ex-
ecution in mourning prints, shepherds' plaids, and shirtings. To the Ancona Printing Co.
for variety and excellence, especially in light chintzes, striped percales in high colors,
handkerchiefs, flags, oil black and lavender prints and aniline black calicoes, with figures
in steam colors, and also for polonaise suitings.

117. McCrossan & Farr, New York, N. Y., U. S.

COTTON HANDKERCHIEFS.
Report, — Commended for style, finish, color, and quality.

118. Merrimac Manufacturing Co., Lowell, Mass., U. S.

PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for especial and superior excellence^ and novelty in "cardinal
rcdg," for beauty and excellence in design and coloring in printed furniture cretonnes, and
for excellence in madder purples and shirting stripes.

119. Wood ft Haslam, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

DYED COTTON YARNS AND FABRICS.

Report. — Conunended for excellence in color and design in Turkey red yams and table
cloths.

120. American Print Works, Fall River, Mass., U. S.

PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for great variety and excellence in design and execution in wide
percales in light styles, imitation seersuckers, ginghams, and shirting stripes, as well as in
regular madder styles.

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-2 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

X2I. Hamilton Woolen Co., Southbridge, Mass., U. S.

PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for novelties in design and neatness of execution, good coloring,
good printing of their *' Knickerbocker' ' percales and cambrics.

122. Andreas Kartell & Co., Pennypack Print Works, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

PRINTED CAUCOES AND SHIRTINGS.

Report. — Commended for excellence in " imitation oil colors" in reds and greens, and
prints in imitation of German ginghams and dress goods.

123. Manchester Mills, Manchester, N. H., U. S.

PRINTED CALICOES.

Report. — Commended for variety and excellence in design and execution of madder
prints, variety of styles, clearness of white and especial excellence in aniline black grounds,
in imitation of woven effects, with bright figures in madder colors in pink and orange.

124. Richmond Manufacturing Co., Providence, R. I., U. S.

PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.
Report. — Commended for excellence in pink frockings, garancine pinks, and standard
gray styles in calicoes.

125. Hamilton Manufacturing Co., Lowell, Mass., U. S.

PRINTED CALICOES.

Report. — Commended for excellence in design, coloring, and execution, in chintz styles
on wide cloth and in robes, and for aniline combinations with madder colors.

126. Pretty, Grime, & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

PRINTED AND DYED COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for excellence in dyed "solid blacks," in logwood and aniline,
and neatness in design and clearness of execution in half-mourning prints.

127. S. H. Greene & Sons, Clyde Bleachery and Print Works, River Point, R. I.,

U. S.

PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the excellence of their ** Washington prints," in imitation oil
colors, in ruby and green; excellent imitation of woven dress goods; delicate coloring in
robes, and steam colors in flags, stripes, and handkerchiefs.

128. William Simpson & Sons, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

PRINTED AND DY^ COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for great variety, novelty, and excellence in design and execution
m mourning and half-mourning prints, ultramarine blue, garancine chocolates and dyed
calicoes, in solid black alpaca finish, and for regularity and evenness in fabrics.

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GROUP VIIL ^3

129. Palmer ft Kendall, Middletown, Conn., U. S.

COLORED MOSQUITO NETTINGS.
Report. — G^mmended for excellence of color and material, equality and proper size of
meshes, straight edges, smooth finish, and flexibility.

130. Mississippi Mills, Wesson, Miss., U. S.

COTTONADES, OSNABURG PLAIDS.

Report. — The material is excellent; coloring thoroughly well done; durability remarkable.

131. Lewiston Mills, Lewiston, Me., U. S.

COLORED DUCK COTTONADES, TICKINGS, AND CHEVIOTS.

Report. — The colored ducks are excellent in styles and fabrics. The cotton cassimeres
very flexible and durable. The four-quarter tickings are, heavy, smooth, and of the best
material. The cheviots are peculiar in delicate shadings, and well made.

132. Shetucket Manufacturing Co., Norwich, Conn., U. S.

SHIRTING STRIPES.
Report. — Undressed, well made throughout, and of good color.

133. Conestogo Steam Mills, F. Shroder & Co., Lancaster, Pa., U. S.

DYED CANTON FLANNELS AND GENUINE NANKEENS.

Report. — Commended for variety and beauiy of colors, smooth, strong, and fine fabric,
siiecialty in silky finish ; durability.
Genuine nankeens, excellent in quality of cotton and fabric.

134. Washington Mills, Lawrence, Mass., U. S.

COLORED CAMBRICS.

Report. — Commended for excellence, delicacy, variety of color, and smoothness of finish.

135. I. Pal, St. Petersburg, Russia.

DYED AND PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.
Report. — Commended for excellence in design, combination, and colorings in light chintz
cambrics, furniture prints, and handkerchiefs, and also in dyed plain cambrics and cotton
pantaloon stuffs.

136. Stephen Borissof & Sons, Ivanovo-Vosnesensk, Wladimir, Russia.

PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.
Report. — Commended for great excellence in design and combination of colors, and
neatness of execution in chintz furniture and calicoes.

137. Saladrigas & Brothers, Barcelona, Spain.

PRINTED CCtTTON FABRICS.
Report. — Commended for variety in design and excellence in finish, combined with
ec momy of production, in printed cottons for general use.

Digitized by CjOOQIC

44 REPORTS. ON AWARDS,

138. La Espafia Industrial, Barcelona, Spain.

PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.
Report. — Commended for excellence in design, colors, and fabric, in printed cretonnes
for furniture purposes; variety and excellence in colors, in dyed cambrics and percales; good
quality and variety, in common prints.

139. Schlieper & Baum, Elberfeld, Germany.

PRINTED COrrON FABRICS.

Report. — Conmiended for great variety and beauty in design, excellence in colors and exe-
cution, not only in madder styles, but in a great variety of combination with aniline, catechu,
artificial alizarine, ultramarine blue, and steam colors.

140. I. Hanhart, Solivo Dietikon, Zurich, Switzerland.

PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for superior excellence in Adrianople red, black, and orange
chintzes.

141. Jabez Johnson & Fildes, Manchester, England.

COLORED QUILTS AND MARSEILLES VESTINGS; TURKISH TOWELS.

Report. — Commended for excellence in coloring, exceedingly well defined, good designs ;
Marseilles vestings, thoroughly well woven and colored, fine material ; Turkish towels and
toweling excellent in every way. In all respects these three varieties are very superior.

142. Simpson & King, Manchester, England.

PRINTED COTTON FABRICS.

Report, — Commended for very superior excellence in design and combinations of colors
on cotton fabrics for household decoration, printed in imitation of needlework as shown
by the Kensington School of Design ; remarkable and novel in all respects.

143. Renfrew Manufacturing Co., South Adams, Mass., U. S.

GINGHAMS AND SKIRTINGS.

Report. — Commended for assortment having harmony and fastness of colors, good styles
and delicate shadings ; chdn6 style especially good ; ginghams of soft, smooth fabric, well
colored and harmonized ; fine ginghams, 80 X 72» well woven and smooth ; twills, soft
finish, fine assortment, of good colors and durable, black and white peculiarly, good in all
respects.

144. Bates Manufacturing Co., Lewiston, Me., U. S.

SATEENS, GINGHAMS, AND HONEYCOMB QUILTS.

Report. — Sateens ; admirable assortment of colors and excellence of finish in all respects.
Corded, fancy woven, and high colored fabrics. Commended for novelty and excellence
in quality and fabric.

145. Lancaster Mills, Clinton, Mass., U. S.

FANCY GINGHAMS.
Report. — Commended for superior excellence in quality ; colors thoroughly harmonized
and in great variety of very superior patterns.

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GROUP VIIL 45

X46. Gloucester Qinghaxn Mills, Gloucester City, N. J., U. S.

GINGHAM DRESS GOODS.
Report, — Commended for good quality and designs.

147. Union Wadding Co., Providence, R. I., U. S.

COLORED COTTON WADDING AND BATTING.

Report. — Commended for excellent quality of material, well prepared, soft, and thoroughly
glazed ; large variety and evenness, with general adaptability to use.

148. Silver Spring Dyeing and Bleaching Co., Providence, R. I., U. S.

PROCESS OF DYEING COTTON FABRICS.

R^>ort, — Commended for dyeing and finishing ; great variety of plain and varied color-
ings, silesias, jaconets, curtain hollands, beetled and silk imitations : the exhibit altogether
is a triumph in its way ; also for the excellence in bleaching and finishing white goods.

149. Saratoga Victory Manufacturing Co., Victory Mills, N. Y., U. S.

BLACK AND COLORED SILESIAS.

Report, — Commended for evenness of fabric, smooth weaving and finish, good colors^
delicacy in coloring ; admirable throughout.

150. Lonsdale Company, Lonsdale, R. I., U. S.

COLORED SATEENS.

Report, — Commended for remarkably fine quality, beauty of the silk finish, and superi-
ority of coloring ; the cloth being very superior and the fabric excellent in all respects.

151. S. Thornton & Sons, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

COLORED COTTON GOODS.

Report. — Farmers* and miners' cotton checks. Commended for excellence of color and
fabric; well designed in styles, and very durable.

152. Putnam Manufacturing Co., Providence, R. I., U. S.

COLORED COTTON GOODS.

Report, — Colored curtain hollands a specialty; great variety and novelty of designs;
colors remarkably good ; blue mottled, new and admirable, fabric excellent.

153. S. Meyer ft Co., Bielefeld, Germany.

LINEN FABRICS.

Report, — Commended for great excellence and variety in the collection of linen shirt
fronts, collars, and cufi& ; and for adaptability and economy of fabrics.

154. James Gribanof ft Sons, Vologda, Russia.

LINEN FABRICS.

Report, — Commended for the high excellence of quality of the linen yams, cloths, hand-
kerchiefs, fronting linens, and damasks.

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^fy REPORTS ON AWARDS.

155. Alezandrof ft Alafoosof; Kasan, Russia.

LINEN FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the superior firmness and evenness of the flax tow yams and
cloths, and tfieir economy and adaptation to popular use.

156. Charlotte Zinserling, St. Petersburg, Russia.

COTTON AND LINEN FABRICS.
Report. — Commended for excellence, variety, economy, and adaptability to purpose of
the braids, webbings, and tapes.

157. Weiss & Grohmann, Vienna, Austria.

COTTON AND UNEN THREAD.

Report. — Conunended for excellence i;i colors and quality of the threads.

158. Lange ft Co., Moscow, Russia.

FLAX FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the superior quality of the samples of linen, fire hose, and
twines.

159. Torres Novas Spinning and Weaving Co., Torres Novas, Portugal.

LINEN FABRICS.
Report. — Conmiended for good qualities of linen ducks, drills, and fancy pantaloon
ttuf&.

160. Bahia & Genro, Oporto, Portugal.

COTTON- AND- UNEN FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for colored domestic vestings and excellent brown linen drills.

161. Hille ft Dietrich, Giradov, Warsaw, Russia.

LINEN FABRICS.
Report, — Commended for the very great general excellence and variety of the linen
fabrics, comprising duck, bed and table linen, bleached ; also colored damasks of great
beauty in design and combinations of colors, fringed and colored duck table cloths, bath
towels, brown and bleached, and frontings.

162. Rodrigo Antonio Ferreira Dias, Oporto, Portugal.

COTTON AND LINEN FABRICS.

Report. — A large and substantial variety of cottonades, cotton blankets, shawls, vestings,
ginghams, and brown linens.

163. Jose Cameiro Mello, Oporto, Portugal.

COTTON AND LINEN FABRICS.

Report. — A large display of cottonades, cotton blankets, cotton yams, and linen drill; all
of good quality and durability.

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GROUP VIII. 47

164. Esteban Ribot & Brothers, Granada, Spain.

FABRICS OF HEMP.

Report. — Commended for great variety of bags, shawls, and other articles made from
these fibres, of good quality, useful, and at low cost.

165. Antonio da Costa Quimaraes, Quimaraes, Portugal.

UNEN FABRICS.
Report. — G>mmended for excellent quality of bed and table linen and embroideries.

166. Manuel Mendes Ribeiro Guimaraes, Guimaraes, Portugal.

LINEN DAMASK.

Report. — Commended for good serviceable quality of table linen, and very reasonable
prices.

167. Collective Exhibit of Wurtemberg Linen Manufacturers, Germany.

LINEN FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the great variety and general excellence of the fabrics.

168. Society of the Lys, Ghent, Belgium.

LINEN AND JUTE YARNS.

Report. — Commended for general excellence in quality of yams, great softness and even-
ness, strength and desirable color of yams.

169. Frank S. Sandeman, Manhattan Works, Dundee, Scotland.

LINEN AND JUTE YARNS AND CANVAS PADDINGS.

Report. — Conmiended for general good quality in yams and canvas; novelty in imitation
of human hair and pads.

170. Greenmount Spinning Co., Dublin, Ireland.

LINEN FABRICS.

Report, — Commended for great variety and excellent quality, and adaptability to purpose,
of brown and striped linen drills, awning stripes, sheetings, diapers, stair drills, towels,
toweling, and horse covers.

171. Henry Matier ft Co., Belfast, Ireland.

LINEN FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for superior excellence and fineness of fabric, beauty of design
and embroidery in linen handkerchiefs, cuffs, and collars; and also in printed linen hand-
kerchiefs, excellence in design and printing.

172. John S. Brown & Sons, Belfast, Ireland.

LINEN FABRICS.
Report. — Commended for superior excellence and beauty, in design and execution, in
damask table linen, extraordinary fineness in diapers, handkerchiefs, and yam, and great
excellence in linen frontings and sheetings, and for general perfection of fabrics.

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48 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

173. Fenton, Connor, & Co., Belfast, Ireland.

LINEN FABRICS.

Report, — Commended for general excellence and variety of exhibit and superior quality
of fronting linens, linen dress goods, and printed lawns.

174. J. N. Richardson, Sons, ft Owden, Belfast, Ireland.

LINEN FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for superior excellence and beauty, in design and execution, in
damask table linen; superior fineness and quality of linen frontings and handkerchiefs.

175. Dicksons, Purguson, ft Co., Belfast, Ireland.

LINEN FABRICS.

Report, — Commended for superior quality of huckabacks and handkerchiefs, and general
excellence and variety of articles.

176. Sons of Salvador Landa, Calatayud, Zaragoza, Spain.

FLAX FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for excellent quality and adaptability to purpose, as well as econ-
omy, of the "hand-spun" linen sheetings.

177. Robert McBride ft Co., Belfast, Ireland.

COTTON AND MIXED COTTON AND LINEN GOODS.
Report. — Commended for neatness of design and clearness of printing on linen lawns;
superior fineness and excellence of Swiss mulls and other cotton fabrics.

178. York Street Flax Spinning Co., Belfast, Ireland.

LINEN FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for superior excellence of linen sheetings and fronting linens;
novelty in linen brocades; skill in printed linens, and general variety and excellence of
fabrics.

179. Van den Nieuwenhuizen and Van Stratum, Qeldrop, Netherlands.

LINEN FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for excellence and adaptability to purpose in loom dies and huck-
abacks.

180. Regenhart, Rasrmann, ft Kiifferle, Vienna, Austria.

LINEN FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for great beauty of design and excellence of execution in colored-
bordered damask table linen, as well as superior taste in coloring; also for novelty in linen
shawls and scarfs.

181. Carl Siegel, Senior, Vienna, Austria.

LINEN FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the excellence and adaptability of the sheetings and napkins.

Digitized by VjOOQIC

GROUP VIII. 49

182. William Laird & Co. (Canmore Linen Works), Forfar, Scotland.

LINEN FABRICS AND JUTE GOODS.

Rgp&ri. — Commended for general excellence and utility and great variety of fabrics in
damask loom dice sheetings, ducks, towelings, osnaburgs, buckram, paddings, stair cover-
ings, seamless bags, hessians, and horse cloths.

183. Remaggi Brothers, Navacchio, Pisa, Italy.

LINEN FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for excellence and adaptability to purpose of damasks and panta-
looning.

184. Joseph Meyer, Dresden, Germany.

LINEN DAMASK TABLE COVERS.

Report. — Commended for superior excellence and beauty in bleached, half-bleached, and
bordered table linen.

185. Meunier & Co., Paris, France.

LINEN FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the exquisite beauty in design and execution of the damask
table linen, and the superior quality of their other fabrics.

186. Jaime Sado, Barcelona, Spain.

LINEN FABRICS.
Report. — Commended for beauty and excellence in design and finish of damask table
linen and towels.

187. William Wilford, Tamise, East Flanders, Belgium.

LINEN CANVAS AND SAMPLES OF FLAX.

Report. — Commended for the excellence and adaptability of the sail cloth and the su-
perior evenness of fabric.

188. Camille Devos & Brother, Courtrai, Belgium.

LINEN AND COTTON PANTALOONING AND COUTII-S.

Report. — Commended for general excellence and adaptability of the linen and cotton
pantalooning, good taste in design and skill in weaving; and also for excellence in coloring
and fabric of coutils.

189. Jacques de Brandt, Alost, Belgium.

LINEN DAMASK AND DIAPERS.

Report. — Commended for the very great beauty in design and superior excellence of
fabric and execution of the damask table linens.

190. Rey, Senior, Brussels, Belgium.

LINEN FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for great variety and excellent quality of the articles exhibiteiK
viz., household linen in all forms, damask, loom dice, sheetings, and huckabacks.
4 49

Digitized by CjOOQIC

JO REPORTS ON AWARDS.

191. Van Damme Brothers, Roulers, Belgium.

LINEN FABRICS.

Report, — Commended for the great excellence, and adaptability for clothing for the labor-
ing classes, of the indigo-blue linen ; and also for the superior excellence of the coloring.

192. Q. Stenberg's Widow, Jonkoping, Sweden.

UNEN FABRICS.
Report. — Commended for beauty and excellence in design and fabric of damask table
linen.

193. Stevens Linen Works, Webster, Mass., U. S.

BLEACHED AND BROWN LINEN FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for superior excellence, in quality and utility, of their plain and
twilled crash toweling, diapers, and huckabacks.

194. Ph. Vrau & Co., Lille, France.

LINEN THREADS AND TWINES.

Report. — Commended for excellence and variety of the linen threads and twines.

195. Green & Daniels, Pawtucket, R. I., U. S.

SEWING COTTON.
Report. — Commended for economy, adaptability, and good finish of the three-cord
sewing cotton.

196. John Clark, Jr., & Co., Glasgow, Scotland.

SEWING COTTON.

Report. — Commended for excellence in color, quality, and finish of the six-cord sewing
cotton.

197. Jonas Brook & Brothers, Meltham Mills, Huddersfield, England.

SEWING COTTON.

Report. — Commended for variety and general excellence of crochet,* embroidery, and
sewing cotton.

198. John Dewhurst & Sons, Belle Vue Mills, Skipton, England.

SEWING COTTON.
Report. — Commended for economy, adaptability, and excellent finish of the glace three-
cord sewing cotton.

199. Hassebroucq Brothers, Comines, France.

LINEN THREADS.

^<*^r/.-^Commended for the excellence in quality, variety in color, and the very neat
manner of putting up for use of the linen sewing threads.

200. Cox Brothers, Dundee, Scotland. .

JUTE CORDS.

Report. — Dressed cords, jute yam, carpet twist, and dyed twist. Commended fo" superior
evenness and smoothness and excellent color in the dyed goods.

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GROUP VJII. 51

201. Van de Wynckete Brothers Alsberge, Ghent, Belgium.

BLEACHED YARNS AND THREADS IN EVERY STAGE.

Report. — Commended for general good quality of products; fine white of bleached yams;
strength of yams and threads.

202. Ullathome & Co., Durham, England.

SHOE THREADS.

Report, — Commended for superior quality and evenness of yams, great variety and bril-
liancy of colors, great utility of the articles manufactured.

203. Dunbar, McMaster, & Co., QUford, Ireland.

UNEN THREADS, GRAY, BLEACHED, AND DYED.

Report. — Commended for superior excellence in quality and colors, general variety of
products, novelty and specialty in flosses, splendid collection of goods in every respect.

204. Bbaert Cools, Alost, Belgium.

LINEN YARNS AND SEWING THREAD.

Report. — Conunended for general good quality of yams and threads ; also for variety of
fine colors.

205. Marques Caralt & Co., Barcelona, Spain.

HEMP THREADS.

Report, — Commended for economy and adaptability to purpose of the hemp shoe threads.

206. Cartier-Bresson, Paris, France.

SEWING COTTON.

Report, — Commended for excellence in quality and color of the sewing cotton.

207. C. G. Billeter, Zurich, Switzerland.

SINGED COTTON THREAD AND OTHER THREADS.

Report. — Commended for the peculiar softness, evenness, and strength, and special adap-
tation to the use for which they are intended.

208. Hilversum Steam Spinning and Weaving Manufactory, Amsterdam, Neth«

erlands.

COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Honest, strong, durable, and well-made drills and sheetings.

209. Barbour Flax Spinning Co., Paterson, N. J., U. S.

FLAX YARNS AND THREADS.

Report, — Commended for excellence in quality and color of threads; general utility of
product.

210. American Linen Thread Co., Mechanicville, N. Y.» U. S.

LINEN THREAD AND YARN.

Report. — Commended for smoothness, evenness, and excellence in all respects, of their
flax products of American manufacture.

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52 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

211. Neptune Twine Mills, Emery Johnson, Proprietor, East Haddam, Conn.,

U.S.

TWINE AND CORD.

Report. — Peculiar even and strong seine twine and other cords.

212. J. & P. Coats, Paisley, Scotland.

SEWING COTTON.

Report, — Commended for the superior strength and excellent quality of spool cotton.

213. Marshall & Co., Leeds, England.

LINEN SEWING AND OTHER THREADS.

Report. — Commended for superior excellence in quality and color of threads; specialities
and general variety of goods ; a very superior collection of goods in every respect.

214. Baron Stieglitz, near Narva, Russia.

CANVAS.

Report. — Commended for excellence in all respects of the sail duck, of various grades
of fineness.

215. Druid Mills, Baltimore, Md., U. S.

COTTON SAIL DUCK.

Report. — Commended as clean, well manufactured, even, and 'veil adapted for its pur-
pose.

216. Thomas Hall, Edinburgh, Scotland.

HAND-PAINTED CLOTHS, IN IMITATION OF TAPESTRY, FOR WALL DECORATION.

Report. — The novel application of scene decorations for domestic purposes, carried out
by two very effective landscape paintings, size nine feet by six feet, painted in water-colors
on jute canvas, adapted for inside walls and panels.

217. Michael Nairn & Co., Kirkcaldy, Scotland.

FLOOR OIL CLOTHS.
Report. — Commended for excellent workmanship and material; for tasteful designs and
beautiful colors; extraordinary and unequaled size; flexibility and superior quality.

218. H. Loewenberg, Charlottenburg, near Berlin, Germany.

IMITATION OF LE,\THER RELIEF ORNAMENTS FOR HATS, BOOTS, AND SHOES.

Report. — Commended for novelty of material, variety of objects, and fitness to the purposes
intended.

219. Boulinikon Floor Cloth Manufacturing Co. (Limited), Manchester, England.

FLOOR CLOTH.
Report. — Commended for originality in material, adaptation to public wants, and fitness
to the purposes intended ; also for good quality, fair designs, flexibility, apparently great
durability, and moderate prices.

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GROUP VJIL 53

220. Joseph Sak-Volders, Turahout, Belgium.

FLAX TICKINGS AND AWNING STRIPES.

Report, — Commended for excellence in color and quality of the tickings and awning
stripes.

221. Commission-General for the National Exhibitions, Brazil.

COTTON CLOTHS AND HAMMOCKS.

Report, — Commended for the variety of their exhibition, and the adaptability of the arti-
cles exhibited to popular wants, including hammocks of different materials from different
provinces ; . cotton fabrics, plain, colored ; quilts, towels.

222. Mayall Manufacturing Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

PATENT ANTI-MOTH CARPET LINING.

Report. — ^The cotton is pressed with an anti-moth preparation, and dried thoroughly on
hot cylinders ; full thirty-six inches wide ; perforation of the lining, one-ply cloth and
twenty per cent, paper, besides the cotton. The perforation is made to allow the dust to
settle on the floor. Especially adapted to hotels and public buildings. Commended for
excellence.

223. National Rope Yard, Lisbon, Portugal.

CANVAS.

Report, — Commended for the fair and serviceable quality of canvas, well suited to use.

224. The Mount Vernon Co., Baltimore, Md., U. S.

COTTON DUCK AND TWINE.
Report, — Commended for the strength and utility of their wide duck, for car roofs and
other purposes, and for the even, good quality of their twine.

225. Local Government of Ni-i-gata-ken, Japan.

RAMIE CLOTH.

Report. — Commended for the variety and adaptability of the ramie fabrics, as well as the
ingenuity shown in the use of printed or dyed yams, producing figures when the cloth is
woven.

226. Local Government of Nara-ken, Japan.

BLEACHED HEMP CLOTH.

Report. — Commended for the fineness of the fabric produced from hemp, and its adap-
tability to the purposes of clothing for which it is intended.

227. Municipality of Osaka, Japan.

COTTON RUGS.

Report. — Commended for utility and adaptability to intended purpose.

228. Association for Women's Work, Kiyoto, Japan.

COTTON RUGS — DANTSUORI.

Report, — Commended for the peculiar method of working cotton into a useful rug of
peculiarly attractive style.

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54 liEPORTS ON AWARDS,

229. Imperial Board of Agriculture, Commerce, and Industry, Toldo, Japan.

COTTON RUGS.

Report. — Commended for utility and adaptability to purpose of the collection of plain
and colored mattings.

230. W. Walcker, Paris, France.

MILITARY AND GARDEN TENTS.
Report, — Commended for the very great variety of military, picnic, and garden tents, com-
bining excellence of material with convenience of form, extreme strength, and simplicity
of adjustment, in a remarkable degree.

231. Josi Feced, Manila, Philippine IsUnds.

CLOTH FROM THE MANILA HEMP.
Report. — Commended for the fineness and delicacy of the cloth made from the fibre of
the " Musa textilis," or Manila hemp.

232. Mechanical Net Manufacturing and Weaving Stock Co., Itzehoe, Holstein,

Germany.

NETS AND SAIL CLOTH.

Report. — Commended for very good quality of cotton and linen nets; first-rate workman
ship; goods made of the best yam with great care.

233. George W. Chipman & Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

CARPET LININGS AND STAIR PADS.

Report, — Commended for excellence in all the following properties : elasticity, softness,
overcomes unevenness in the floor, warmth in winter, coolness in summer, water-proof,
preventing water from leaking through floors and ceilings; made with such excellence in
seaming, lapping both in the ordinary selvage of sewing and a tape strip, as to prevent
the inner material from working or raveling out.

Cedrinated carpet lining is anti-moth and anti-insect in its medicated properties, free
from oil or oily substance attracting mice or vermin of any kind. A solution of sugar of
lead also prevents mildew. The entire exhibit very full and satisfactory.

234. Methuen Mill, Webster Mill, and Nevens Bag Mill (Nevens & Co.), Boston,

Mass., U. S.

HEAVY BAGGJNG MADE FROM JUTE.

Report. — Commended for even texture and adaptation to use, good manufacture, and
closeness in the web.

235. Rosenlund Cotton Manufacturing Co., Goteborg, Sweden.

COTTON DUCK, TWINE, AND YARN.

Report. — Commended for evenness, strength, and thorough honesty in the fabrics.

236. Rebello & Co., Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

COARSE COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the even spinning, good color, and excellent combination ol
their striped osnaburgs.

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GROUP VI JI. 55

237. Barlow & Jones (Limited), Manchester, England.

VKSTINGS, MARSEILLES QUILTS, AND CRETONNES.

Report, — Commended for the general excellence and variety of the goods exhibited, and
for the special beauty and quality of the Marseilles quilts, which appear to us to be un-
equaled in style and quality.

238. Christiania Sail Cloth Manufactory, Christiania, Norway.

SAIL CLOTH, YARNS, AND TWINES.
Report, — Commended for excellence and adaptability to purpose.

239. Lawrence Waterbury & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

JUTE BAGGING.

Report, — Commended for its very excellent manufacture and its adaptability to baling
cotton.

240. Thomas Potter, Sons, & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

OIL CLOTH.
Report, — Conmiended for their very great variety, excellent quality, numerous, onginal,
and artistic designs, rich finish and colors ; admirable in every way.

241. American Linoleum Manufacturing Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

LINOLEUM FLOOR CLOTH.
Report, — Commended for the beauty and finish of their designs and colors, and excellent
qualities of the cloth.

242. Hamilton Webbing Co., Wickford, R. I., U. S.

WEBBING FOR BOOT AND SHOE STRAPS.

Report, — Commended for excellence, strength, good color, and fitness for service.

243. James Riddle, Son, & Co., Wilmington, Del., U. S.

TICKINGS.
Report, — ^Variegated colors and plain blue striped. Conmiended for excellence in twill
and colors; double warp, 104 picks; pure cotton; peculiarly novel fabric.

244. Falls Co., Norwich, Conn., U. S.

COTTON AWNINGS AND TICKINGS.

Report. — Awning stripes, wide striped tickings. Conmiended for excellent fabric and
color of awning stripes, clear white and blue in tickings, and great smoothness in stripe
and texture.

245. John Famum ft Co., Conestoga Steam Mills, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

TICKINGS.

Report, — Sixty-inch wide specially noteworthy. Commended for excellence of materials,
color, weaving, and good variety.

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56 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

246. Gale & Co., Bostbn, Mass., U. S.

TENTS.

Report, — Commended for excellence in the employment of an expanding and folding
frame for distending the upper part of a tent; very novel and adapted to all out-door
purposes, where lawn, beach, hunters' and camp tents are used ; quick folding against
sudden storms, or strongly fortifying all sides, enabling them to stand against wind or rain;
economy and adaptation.

247. David Trainer & Sons, Omega Manufacturing Co., Linwood, Pa., U. S.

TICKINGS.

Report, — These tickings are strictly first-class, and excel in herring-bone twill. Com-
mended for fineness of yarn and peculiarly good colors.

248. Ignaz Richter & Sons, Niedergrund, Bohemia, Austria.

COTTON VELVETS.

Report. — Commended for great variety of distinctly shaded colors, fully one hundred
and twenty different colorings; entirely odorless; evenness of fabric, silky finish, and
durability.

249. Juan Conti, Barcelona, Spain.

COTTON TURKISH GARMENTS AND COTTON FABRICS.

Report. — Remarkable for novelty of design in Turkish garments for ladies ; colors deli-
cately and exquisitely done ; towels, table covers, material for garments ; exceedingly well
done. The entire exhibit is admirable.

250. Weigert & Co., Berlin, Germany.

COTTON CHENILLE SHAWLS.
Report. — Commended for the novelly of fabric and excellent quality of this especial
specimen of cotton goods, beauty of coloring, and economy in cost.

251. Parellada, Flaquer, & Co., Barcelona, Spain.

CORDUROY COTTON COLORED FABRICS.
Report. — Commended for variety and excellence of colors, strength of fabric, economy,
and durability.

252. M. R. Oetiker, Mannedorf, Zurich, Switzerland.

WHITE AND COLORED QUILTS AND TAIILE CLOTHS.

Report. — Commended for unusual excellence in style and weaving.

253. Dundas Cotton Mills, Hamilton, Ontario, Canada.

HEAVY BROWN SHEETINGS AND SEAMLF-SS BAGS.

Report. — The sheetings are very even, firm, and very clean, and the bags are of a verj'
superior quality.

254. Garsed Brothers, Frankford, Pa., U. S.

TICKINGS.

Report. — Commended for superior quality, brilliancy in colors, and strength of cloth.

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GROUP VIII,

255. York Manufacturing Co., Saco, Me., U. S.

TICKINGS, NANKEENS, DENIMS, AND FANCY WOVEN FABRICS.

Report. — Nankin plaids and stripes, excellent; denims, plaids, and stripes, very novel;
tickings, peculiarly adapted for good service. In iheir goods the designs are excellent and
novel, the weaving very even, and the quality is unsurpassed.

256. Everett Mills, Lawrence, Mass., U. S.

FANCY COTTONS, COTTONADES, AND CHEVIOTS.

Report. — Commended for excellence in subdued coloring, smoothness of fabncs, general
good taste in design, of cheviot shirtings ; cottonades of very good quality.

257. Amoskeag Manufacturing Co., Manchester, N. H., U. S.

TICKINGS, DENIMS, AND DOMESTIC GINGHAMS.

Report, — Ginghams, excellent in red, orange, and black combination, heretofore almost
confined to foreign goods ; pink clear and well colored ; green in all shades remarkably
line.

Plaids and tickings, known as A C A, very superior.

Awnings in blue and red stripes, and denims in blue and brown, excellent.

Cheviot shirtings of excellent fabric and peculiarly good combination of colors.

258. Gervasio Amat, Gracia, Barcelona, Spain.

ESPARTO MATS.

Report. — Commended for the excellence in quality, and economy of production, of the
mattings of esparto grass.

259. Imperial Maritime Customs of China.

MATTINGS, GRASS CLOTH, COTTON, AND COTTON CLOTH.

Report. — Commended for the great variety and excellence of the exhibit, comprising
rattan mats, grass cloth in great variety of quality, bamboo, cloth mats from Takon, pine-
apple cloth, hemp cloth from Formosa, and mats, woven by the aborigines, from the same
place, cotton, white and yellow, and cotton cloths, bleached and unbleached, dyed and
printed, nankeens, hemp, fine and coarse, from various provinces, and hemp cloth, hemp
skins (so called), or fibre of the Bohmeria, China grass, pineapple fibre, and coir or cocoa-
nut fibre ; being a very large, instructive, and valuable collection.

260. Fergusson & Co., Chefoo, China.

STRAW BRAID.

Report, — Commended for the variety and excellence of the straw braids of various qual-

261. Russell & Co., Canton, China.

MATS.

Report. — Commended for the superior excellence of the straw mattings of various grades.

262. J. Forbes Watson, Director Indian Museum, British India.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report. — Commended for the large and valuable collection of samples of cotton, flax,
rheea, hemp, aloe, musa, and other vegetable fibres, embracing over forty species of great
value, exhibited by the Museum under his care.

Digitized by CjOOQIC

jg REPORTS ON AWARDS,

263. PaoU Vincenxi, Carpi, Modena, Italy.

WOVEN BRAIDS AND TRIMMINGS OF WOOD.

Report. — Commended for the ingenuity and evenness of fabric of the woven braids and
trimmings made of wooden fibres, representing an important branch of industry.

264. Qovaert Brothers, Alost, East Flanders, Belgium.

JUTE FABRICS.

Report, — G>mmended for the economy of fabrication, excellence of quality, and adapta-
bility to purpose of the jute bagging and bags for salt, grain, etc., and also for the evenness
of the sail cloth.

265. Severino Leite, Minas Qeraes, Brazil.*

VEGETABLE HAIR.

Report, — Commended for good quality and great variety of the fibre, in all its processes,
novelties in manufactured goods thereof, and variety in specialities.

266. E. W. Rudder, Kempsey, New South Wales, Australia.

FIBRE OF GIGANTIC NETTLE-TREE.

Report, — Fibre of gigantic nettle-tree and bark of sycamore-tree. Commended for dis-
covery of fibre and adaptation for trade purposes, utility thereof, comparative smoothness.

267. Thomas Longmire, Kooroocheang, Smeaton, Victoria, Australia.

FLAX STALKS, SEEDS, AND JUTE.

Report. — Very fair specimens, of good quality.

268. Thomas McPherson & Co., Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

JUTE.
Report. — Long and soft jute, strong in fibre and of very good quality.

269. Government of the Loo-Choo Islands, Japan.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report. — Commended for the value of the collection of vegetable fibres, China g^rass.

270. Government of Venezuela, Venezuela.

COCUIZA FIBRES, COTTON, AND MANUFACTURES OF VEGETABLE FIBRES.
Report. — Commended for the excellent quality of the cotton, white and yellow; the value
of the samples of the fibre of the "Fourcroya gigantea," called cocuiza, raw and colored;
and the excellence and adaptability of the hammocks, halters, girths, and cruppers made
of palm and other fibres.

271. T. Asaya, Tokio, Japan.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report. — Commended for the value of the collection of vegetable fibres, viz., hemp,
ramie, and jute.

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GROUP VIJL 59

272. Qovemor of the Jail of Santona, Province of Santander, Spain.

STRAW FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the great beauty and ingenuity of the different products made
from wheat straw by convict labor.

273. Robert Thompson, Superintendent Government Botanical Gardens, Gordon

Town, Jamaica.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report. — Commended for the large and important collection of vegetable fibres, destined
to be of great importance to manufactures.

274. J. C. Read, Governor of the Darlinghurst Jail, Sydney, New South Wales,

Australia.

MATTING, MADE BY THE ABORIGINES.

Report. — Commended for excellence in quality and variety of product.

275. Dr. James Hector, Wellington, New Zealand.

VEGETABLE FIBRES AND FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the large and valuable collection of fibres of vegetable origin,
with samples of the fabrics produced therefrom, especially of the **phormium tenax" or
New Zealand flax, indicating the direction of a new and important industry.

276. Corps of Mountain Engineers, Madrid, Spain.

FABRICS OF ESPARTO GRASS.

Report. — Commended for excellence in quality and design, well suited to their respective
purposes, and of peculiar merit for their cheapness.

277. Local Government of the Loo-Choo Islands, Japan.

FABRICS OF COTTON, HEMP, AND PLANTAIN FIBRE.

Report. — Commended for the variety of articles exhibited, showing the ordinary fabrics
of the country and the adaptability of the hemp and plantain fibre cloths for use in hot
climates.

278. Commissioners for Victoria, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report. — Commended for the very large and valuable collection of vegetable fibres ex-
hibited; destined to be of great importance in the future development of manufacturing in-
dustry.

279. Provincial Board of Batangas, Philippine Islands.

FABRICS OF VEGETABLE FIBRE.

Report. — Commended for the great variety of fabrics of pineapple and other fibres, of
great beauty and delicacy, collected and exhibited by them, as well as for the collection of
the fibres themselves.

280. Tiburcio Villamarzo, Tayabas, Philippine Islands.

VEGETABLE HAIR FIBRE.

Report. — Commended as well adapted for submarine purposes, impervious to water rot,
very flexible, adapted to weaving and rope-making.

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6o REPORTS ON AWARDS,

281. Qoverament of Portugal, Province of Angola.

WOODED FIBRE.

Report. — Commended as well prepared, very fibrous, strong, flexible, adapted to many
manufacturing purposes.

282. Provincial Board of Antique, Philippine Islands.

FABRICS OF VEGETABLE FIBRE.

Report, — Commended for the great variety of fabrics of pineapple and other fibres, of
great beauty and delicacy, collected and exhibited by them, as well as for the collection of
the fibres themselves.

283. Provincial Government of Camarines (North), Philippine Islands.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report, — Commended for the excellence in length and strength of the fibres of the col-
lection of Manila hemp, " Musa textilis."

284. Provincial Government of Camarines (South), Philippine Islands.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report, — Commended for the excellent quality in length and strength of the fibres of
Manila hemp, " Musa textihs."

285. Enrique Bushell, Hellin, Murcia, Spain.

ESPARTO GRASS.

Report, — Commended for the remarkable length and excellence of the esparto grass,
showing the effect of careful cultivation.

286. Dr. Agostinho Emelindo de LeSo, Parana, Brazil.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report, — Commended for the value of the fibres of Bilbergia tinctoria for purposes of
cordage.

287. J. Home, Director Botanic Garden, Mauritius.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report, — A large and valuable collection of vegetable fibres, destined to be of great future
value as subjects of manufacture.

288. Severino Lourenfo da Costa Leite, Brazil.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report. — Commended for the value and beauty of the fibres of the asclepias, and also
or the four different specimens of "vegetable wool," so called from different species of
palm-tree and the fibre of the malpighiosa.

289. Commissioners for Queensland, Australia.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report. — A large and interesting collection of fibres of vegetable origin, destined to be
of great future importance in manufactures.

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GROUP VIII,
290. Jos6 Rodriguez Vigan, Yloco Sur, Philippine Islands.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report. — Commended for the vahie of the fibre of the Agave vivipara.

291. Henry Prestoe, Government Botanist, Trinidad.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report. — Commended for the interesting and varied collection of fibres of vegetable
origin collected and exhibited by him, and for their prospective value as subjects for manu-
facture.

292. Fray Nicolas Zugadi, Bulacan, Philippine Islands.

VEGETABLE FIBRE.

Report, — Commended for the excellence and adaptability for hats and mats of the fibres
of the sygodium or climbing fern, called Nito limpis.

293. Commissioners of New Zealand.

PHORMIUM.

Report, — A general collection of the fibre, illustrating all manner of preparation and ap-
plications for the manufacture of rope, cordage, yam, cloth, and paper. Commended for
great labor and pains, and for economy and quality of the different products.

294. Botanical Gardens, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

FIBRES OF DIFFERENT TREES AND PLANTS.

Report, — Commended for discovery, adaptation for trade purposes, perseverance in prep-
aration thereof, general utility, of following fibres : flume-tree, bottle-tree, lantern-flower,
Chinese grass, cloth-plant, tree-nettle : large assortment, of great variety ; good-colored
jute.

295. Robert Thompson, Superintendent Botanical Gardens, Gordon Town,

Jamaica.

SISAL HEMP AND CHINA GRASS.
Report, — Commended for the great utility of all the^e fibres in the collection, especially
sisal hemp, China grass, pineapple, bamboo, lace bark, especially adapted for ornamental
purposes; of novelties and good quality; utility of bamboo for paper manufacturing
especially noted.

296. National Museum, Cairo, Egypt.

FLAX, SILK IMITATIONS, AND BARKS.

Report. — Commended for good quality and color and great variety of flax, and for fine
silk imitations ; also for great variety of barks.

297. Province of Bahia, Brazil.

VFX3ETABLE HAIR AND JUTE,

Report. — Conmiended for fair quality of jute, good length, and fair color.

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^2 REPOR TS ON A IVARDS,

298. Government of the State of Hidalgo, Pachuca City, Mexico.

VEGETABLE FIBRES AND FABRICS.

Report. — An admirable collection of fibres and textile fabrics of the Agave Americana,
coarse, fine, and colored, with a representation of the plant in wax.

299. Government of the State of Yucatan, Mexico.

VEGETABLE FIBRES AND FABRICS.

Report. — Commended for the very fine collection of hammocks, mats, and bagging, and
small cordage made of the fibres of the maguey plant or agave, with the exhibit of fibres
of the same, of great length and strength.

300. R. S. Dabney, Fayal, Azores Islands.

MANUFACTURES OF GRASS AND STRAW.

Report. — Commended for excellence, economy, and adaptability of fibres and fabrics

301. Manuel Machado, Fasral, Azores Islands.

MATTINGS AND BRUSHES.

Report. — Commended for excellence, economy, and adaptability of the mattress and
pillow mats, brushes, and other articles, made of pine shavings.

302. Almeida & Silva, Oporto, Portugal.

MATTINGS.

Report. — Commended for adaptability and economy of the rush matting.

303. Joaquim d'Oliveira Melindre, Oporto, Portugal.

MATTINGS.

Report. — Commended for the design and execution of the colored rush mattings.

304. Manoel Dias da Silva, Oporto, Portugal.

MATTINGS.
Report. — Commended for excellence, economy, and adaptability.

305. Manoel d'Oliveira, Margarido, Oporto, Portugal.

FABRICS OF VEGETABLE MATERIALS.

Report. — Commended for excellence and ingenuity of the mats, fiask-covers, and other
articles made of rushes.

306. Juana de Foneira, Fayal, Azores Islands.

MATS AND HATS.

Report. — Commended for ingenuity and excellence of the mats and hats made of pine
shavings.

307. Colonial Government of Cape Verde, Portuguese Colonies.

VEGETABLE FIBRES AND FABRICS.

Report. — A valuable collection of fibres, of great industrial promise, and also of mats
and baskets produced from the same.

Digitized by CjOOQIC

GROUP VIIL 63

508. Provincial Committee of Amazonas, Brazil.

VEGETABLE FIBRES FROM TREES.

Report, — Commended for excellence and interest, and adaptability for various purposes.

309. Francisco Garcia Calatrava, Alcobendas, Madrid, Spain.

ESPARTO GRASS.

Report, — Commended for the superior length and strength of the fibre of cultivated
esparto grass.

310. Botanical Museum, Buitenzorg, Java.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report, — A large and varied collection of fibres of vegetable origin, destined to be of
great future importance to manufacturers.

311. Municipal Chamber of Santarem, Bahia, Brazil.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report, — Commended for the value of the fibres of Urena lobaia and Astrocarium
Tucuman, suitable for cordage, fish lines, and hammocks.

312. Bruno da Silva, Lisbon, Portugal.

MATTINGS.

Report. — Commended for adaptability and excellence of quality.

313. Francisco Prast Banon, Hellin, Albacete, Spain.

ESPARTO GRASS.

^^^^r/.— Commended for the improvement made by cultivation on the fibres of esparto
grass.

314. Colonial Government of Mozambique, Portuguese Colonies.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report, — Commended for the valuable collection of fibres of great industrial promise,
and the baskets, mats, and other fabrics produced from the same.

315. Mufioz Brothers, Albay, Philippine Islands.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report. — Commended for the excellence in quality of the fibres of the Manila hemp and
** Cabo negro" palm.

316. Portuguese Government, Lisbon, Portugal.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report.-^K large and varied assortment of fibres of vegetable origin, from Portugal and
her colonial possessions.

317. Colonial Government of Angola, Portuguese Colonies.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report, — ^A valuable collection of fibres of great industrial promise, and articles of native
workmanship produced from the same.

Digitized by CjOOQIC

64 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

318. Tomas Gallegos, Albay, Philippine Islands.

BANANA FIBRE.

Report, — Commended for the beauty and adaptability to manufacture of the banana fibre.

319. Colonial Oovemment of Macao and Timor, Portuguese Colonies*

VEGETABLE HBRES.

Report, — A valuable collection of fibres of great industrial promise, and of mats and other
fabrics produced from the same.

320. Dr. Eduardo Ordufla, Batangas, Philippine Islands.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report. — A large collection of valuable vegetable fibres from " Musa textilis'^ and other
plants.

321. Province of Bahia, Brazil.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report. — Commended for the value, for purposes of cordage, of the fibre of ** Fourcroya
gigantea.^^

322. Colonial Government of Portuguese India, Portuguese Colonies.

VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report. — A valuable collection of fibres of great industrial promise, and also the fabrics
produced from the same.

323. Charles Chinnery, Addington, Canterbury, New Zealand.

PHOR\nUM FIBRE.

Report. — Commended for excellent quality of fibre for roping purposes, great strength,
careful preparation.

324. Brotons Brothers, Orihuela, Alicante, Spain.

FLAX AND JUTE FIBRE.

Report. — Commended for smoothness, length, and strength of fibre : the flax of silky
finish. •

325. Segunda Flores, Manila, Philippine Islands.

MANUFACTURE OF FIBRES.

Report. — Commended for the great beauty and exquisite delicacy of the silk and pine-
npple fibre dresses and handkerchiefs.

326. Placido Yuson, Yloilo, Philippine Islands.

MANUFACTURES OF VEGETABLE FIBRES.

Report. — Commended for fineness and beauty of the fabric of "yusi" and aUk.

327. Joseph Wild & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

COCOANUT FIBRE CARPETS.

Report. — Striped and plain caqict of unusual evenness and general excellence

Digitized by VjOOQIC

GROUP VIIL 65

328. Wakefield Rattan Co., Wakefield, Mass., U. S.

RATTAN GOODS.

Report. — Commended for variety, novelty, utility, and unsurpassed excellence.

329. Asbestos Patent Fibre Co., Chatham Mills, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

ASBESTOS FIBRE AND FABRICS.

Report. — Very superior fibre for steam packing, especially adapted to meet a present
want in steam joints; excellent non-combustible paper, the first real success of the kind, as
far as is now known ; water and steam pipes, either for outside covering of iron pipes or
for use in themselves for the transmission of water or steam. Commended for superiority
in manufacture, non-expansion, non-contraction, very little friction, economy in prices and
uses.

330. H. W. Johns, New York, N. Y., U. S.

ASBESTOS FIBRE AND FABRIC.

Report. — Variety of fibre, domestic and foreign. Roofing, excellent, durable, econom.
ical, especially resisting outside heat and fire. Asbestos covering on wood, put on in the
liquid state and solidified by the action of the air. Greatest success in fire-proof outer and
inner coating, covering felt, and rough hair fabrics.

331. J. H. Ter Horst, Rijssen, Netherlands.

JUTE AND FLAX GOODS.

Report. — Commended for general excellence, good quality, and strength of burlaps and
bags.

332. Count Augusto Polidori, Anghiari, Arezzo, Italy.

GRASSES, PREPARED GINESTRO.
Report. — Commended as well prepared in all respects for commercial purposes, fineness
and tenacity of fibre; well adapted to the manufacture of grass goods.

333. Manuel Mas Bl Son, Alicante, Spain.

FABRICS OF ESPARTO GRASS.

Report. — Mattings and other fabrics of esparto grass, of excellent quality, well adapted
to use, at low cost, and showing the great improvement made in the fibre by careful culti-
ration.

334 Cesare Vecchietti, Florence, Italy.

GINESTRO GRASSES.

Report. — Commended for remarkable flexibility; well adapted to the various uses to
which such gras.ses can be put.

335. Eduardo Orduna, Batangas, Philippine Islands.

COTTON.

Report. — Commended for the good quality of the cotton.

336. Ryder Brothers, Mango Island, Fiji.

SEA-ISLAND COTTON.

Report. — Commended for extraordinary length of staple, fineness and strength, and
good handling.

5 6s

Digitized by VjOOQIC

66 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

337- Agricultural Museum, St. Petersburg, Russia.

COTTON.
Report » — Commended for the variety of samples of cotton, viz., sea-island, short staple,
and nankin, grown in Turkestan.

338. Provincial Government of Batangas, Philippine Islands.

COTTON.
Report. — Commended for the excellence of the samples of cotton and the yams spun
from the same.

{39. Procesa Dimajruga, Batangas, Philippine Islands.

COTTON.
Report. — Commended for the good quality of the cotton, being the best shown from the
East Indies, and for the evenness of the yam spun from the same.

340. Khedive of Egypt, Cairo, Eg3^t.

SAMPLES OF RAW COTTON.

Report. — A large and varied exhibit of Egyptian cotton samples, of excellent staple.

341. Government of Brazil, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

RAW COTTON.

Repprt, — The best display of cotton in quantity and variety from any foreign country.

342. Government of Queensland, Australia.

RAW COTTON.
Report. — Eight small samples of upland cotton, well handled, and fair staple.

343. Government of Portugal, Portuguese Colonies.

RAW COTTON.
Report. — Although the samples shown are too small to receive an award as an actual
commercial exhibit by individuals, they are deserving of one as an exhibit of the capabili-
ties of the districts wherein they were grown, and the enterprise of the government which
has collected them, as well as for the promise which they offer for the future.

344. T. A. Beckett, John's Island, S. C, U. S.

SEA-ISLAND COTTON.

Report. — Commended for unusual fineness, length, strength, and preparation.

345. Wm. Taylor, Philips County, Arkansas, U. S.

RAW COTTON, COMMERCIAL BALE.

Report. — Commended for extraordinary fineness, silky appearance, good staple, and
excellem ginning.

Digitized by CjOOQIC

GROUP VIIL 67

346. Adams Kellogg, Kellogg's Landing, Madison Parish, Louisiana, U. S.

RAW COTTON, CX)MMERCIAL BALE.

Report. — Commended for extraordinary strength of staple, brightness of color, and good
bandling.

347. Benjamin Montgomery (colored), Warren County, Miss., U. S.

RAW COTTON, COMMERCIAL BALE.

Report, — Commended for very extraordinary length of staple and good handling.

348. Claghom, Herring, & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

RAW COTTON IN VARIETY.
Report. — The best exhibit of commercial bales of raw cotton from all parts of the world ;
also cotton in the seed and on the planL

349. J. M. Seabrook, South Carolina, U. S.

SEA-ISLAND COTTON (RAW).
Report. — Commended for extra length, strength, and fineness of staple.

350. Charles Taulez-Bottelier, Bruges, Belgium.

FLAX.
Report. — Commended for very good quality and nice variety, specially in strong and soft
flaxes, ordinarily long.

351. Pietro P. Facchini & Co., Bologna, Italy.

HEMP AND FLAX.
Report. — Commended for superior excellence in raw, scutched, and combed flaxes and
hemp ; great strength and length of products ; fine lines and clean soft tows ; clearness of
color and brightness of white and yellow unsurpassed ; splendid specimens of the product
of Italy.

352. Henry Le Clercq, Courtrai, Belgium.

FLAX.

Report. — Commended for superior excellence of quality; splendid collection of the flaxes
of Belgium ; beautiful colors; rare softness of fibre; great strength : unsurpassed in the whole
exhibition.

353. S. S. Fuller, Stratford, Ontario, Canada.

FLAX.
Report. — Commended for good quality and long staple.

354. Joaquim Rodrigues, Oporto, Portugal.

FLAX.
Report. — Commended for excellence in length and strength of the combed flax.

355. State of Oregon, U. S.

FLAX.

Report, — ^Very fair quality, considerable strength, good color, and well prepared.

Digitized by VjOOQIC

68 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

356. Province of Parana, Brazil.

FLAX AND JUTE.
Report, — Fair quality of the flax. The jute is more highly recommendeH.

357. Dutch Association for the Encouragement of Flax Industry, Rotterdam,

Netherlands.

FLAX AND LINSEED.
Report, — G>mmended for first-rate quality of fibre, strength and vigor of fibre, fine dark
color, sloftness and general beauty of material.

358. Nicholas Vassilief, Pskof, Russia.

FLAX FIBRES.

Report, — Commended for the very large collection and the great beauty and strength of
the flax fibres.

359. Anthony Nemilof, Orel, Russia.

HEMP.

Report, — Commended for the excellence, in length and strength, of the dressed hemp.

360. A. P. Van Casteel, Rotterdam, Netherlands.

DRESSED FLAX.

Report. — Commended for the great length and excellent quality of fibre of the Dutch,
Zealand, and Friesland dressed flax.

361. Zealand Association for the Promotion of Agriculture, Middelburg, Neth-
erlands.

DRESSED FLAX AND HEMP. .

Report. — Commended for the great excellence of the specimens of dressed hemp and flax.

362. Loring Brothers, Malaga and Granada, Spain.

ESPARTO CRASS.
Report. — Commended for the excellent quality of the esparto grass, showing the great
improvement in the fibre by careful*cultivation and attention.

363. Clement Nemilof, Rjef, Tver, Russia.

HEMP.

Report, — Commended for the excellent quality of the dressed heipp in all states ot
progress, from the hackle to ** dressed line."

364. W. H. Dabney, Azores Islands, Portuguese Colonies.

FLAX FIBRE.
Report, — Commended for the good quality of tlie specimens of dressed and half-dressed
flax, showing the resources of the islands.

Digitized by CjOOQIC

GROUP VIIL 69

365. Committee of the Riga Exchange, Riga, Russia.

FLAX AND HEMP.

Heport, — Commended for ihe admirable selection of the specimens of flax and hemp in
difierent states of progress.

366. Basil Maxinof, Zagorie, Kostroma, Russia.

FLAX.

Report, — Commended for the very excellent quality of the collection of flax flbre.

367. Roman Cartau, Pskof, Russia.

FLAX.

Report, — Commended for the superior length and quality of the specimens of flax.

368. Eugene Karamyshef, Torjok, Tver, Russia.

HEMP AND FLAX.

Report, — Conmiended for the economy and adaptability of the flax and hemp flbres pro-
duced from ripe plants, with specimens of the plants in seed.

369. Theodore Bykof, Vologda, Russia.

FLAX PRODUCTS.

Report, — Commended for the great length and smoothness of fibre and strength and ex-
cellence of the flax yams.

370. Statistical Committee of Pskof, Russia.

FLAX FIBRE.

Report. — Commended for the very large and admirable collection of the fibres of flax,
raised on very poor and sandy soil, and showing all the steps of preparation previous to
spinning; all of very superior quality.

371. Manoel Ignacio Femandes, Telloes, Villa Real, Portugal.

FLAX FIBRES.
Report, — Commended for the fineness and softness of staple.

372. Prince Nicholas Repnin, Poltava, Russia.

FLAX FIBRES.

Report, — Commended for the very valuable and instructive collection of flax fibres, in
diflerent states of progress.

373- Johann Narbuth, Vienna, Austria.

HEMP FIBRES.

Report, — Commended for the excellent quality of the undressed retted and unretted
hemp, and its adaptability for the purpose of cordage.

374. Provincial Government of the Camarines, Philippine Islands.

MANILA HEMP FIBRE.

Report. — Commended for great excellence in length, strength, and uniformity of fibre.

Digitized by VjOOQIC

jro REPORTS ON AWARDS.

375. Alfred Wishaw, St. Petersburg, Russia

FLAX FIBRES.
Report, — Commended for the large collection and excellent quality of the specimens of
flax, grown in the extreme north of Russia.

376. Provincial Board of Agriculture, Castellon, Spain.

HEMP FIBRE.
Report. — Commended for the excellence in quality of the samples of first and second
quality dressed hemp.

377. Valentin de la Crux Carrascalejo, Caceres, Spain.

FLAX FIBRE.

Report. — Commended for the excellence and usefulness of the dressed flax.

378. Qent & Co., Pskof, Russia.

FLAX.
Report. — Commended for the great strength and fineness of the flax.

379. Victorino Teixeira da Costa Liberal, Mondim de Basto, Villa Real, Portugal.

FLAX.

Report. — Conunended for fineness and softness of the flax samples.

380. Dutch Agricultural Society, Rotterdam, Netherlands.

FLAX AND HEMF.
Report. — Commended for the excellence in quality and adaptability to purpose of the
dressed flax and hemp.

381. Agricultural and Forestry Union, Neustadtl, Moravia, Austria.

FLAX AND TOW.

Report. — Dressed flax of various qualities, in all states of progress from the "hackle*' to
the "dressed line," prepared after the Belgian method.

382. Joaquim Augusto da Silveira Carvalho, Penafiel, Oporto, Portugal.

FLAX.

Report. — Commended for excellence in length and softness of the flax fibre.

383. Pedro Martins, Vieira, Braga, Portugal.

FLAX.

Report. — Commended for excellence in quality of sample of flax.

384. The Committee of Ponta Delgado, St. Michael, Azores Islands.

FLAX AND FLAX YARNS.

Report. — Commended for the excellence of the samples of flax and brown and bleachcti
linen yams ; and also the tow and yams of the same.

Digitized by CjOOQIC

GROUP VIII, j\

385. L. Kluftinger, Bologna, Italy.

HEMP.

Keport, — Commended for the very great variety and excellence of the collection of dressed
hemp, fibre of extraordinary fineness.

386. Provincial Qovemment of Laguna, Philippine Islands.

MANILA HEMP.
Report, — Commended for excellent quality in length, strength, and evenness of fibre.

387. Provincial Government of Albay, Philippine Islands.

BIANILA HEAfP.
Rfpori. — Commended for the great excellence of the Manila hemp in length, strength,
and evenness of fibre.

388. Jose de Segueira Pinto Queiroz, Vianno do Castello, Portugal.

FLAX.

^^^(^f/.^— Commended for the excellence of staple.

389. Anacleto da Fonseca Motta, Sardoal, Santarem, Portugal.

HEMP.
Report, — Commended for excellence in length and fineness.

390. John Fomara ft Co., Lingotto, Turin, Italy.

WIRE CLOTH.

Report, — Commended for the great variety and general excellence of the samples of wire
doth, ranging from very coarse, for fencing purposes, to fine wire gauze.

391. Barnard, Bishop, & Bamards, Norwich, England.

WIRE FENCING.

Report, — Commended for excellence in diagonal weaving in a low-priced fabric. Prin-
cipal merit, economy and adaptation to general use.

392. Louis Herrmann, Jr., Dresden, Germany.

WIRE GOODS, WOVEN, 2^ INCHES Tu ^.

Report, — Commended for special adaptability to wire screens in jails, out-houses, lawn
fencing, for safety and ornament; also wire screens for sand, gravel, and general purposes
in manufactories.

393. Ph. J. Sch511er & Sons, Neustadt-on-the-Haardt, Germany.

WIRE CLOTH, DOUBLE TWILLED.

Report. — Commended for utility, especially in sifting potato-meal, sugar, starch, and all
meals of that descrii>tion.

Digitized by CjOOQIC

72 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

394. N. Greening & Sons, Warrington, England.

WOVEN WIRE.

Report, — Commended for excellence in material, regularity of meshes, smoothness of
wire, strength of fabric ; very wide in heavy wire-woven fabrics.

General purposes ; mait-kilns ; rice and flour mills ; general mining purposes.

395. J. B. Brown & Co., London, England.

GALVANIZED WIRE NETl'lNG FOR INCLOSING POULTRY, PHEASANTS, DOGS, EIC

Report, — Commended for excellence in assortment, from four-inch to half-inch meshes,
material, workmanship, economy, regularity of meshes, quality, and maimer of galvanizing.

396. Pennsylvania Wire Works, E. Darby & Son, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

WIRE GOODS IN VARIETY AND NOVELTY.

Report, — Novelties in trellises, bird cages, flower stands, and cases ; garden fencing.
Commended for general excellence in design, material, and manufacture.

397. J. Andersson, Kjardingagarde, Gnosjo, Sweden.

(A peasant, making the goods by hand.)
WIRE AND SIEVE CLOTH.
Report, — Very deserving; commended for excellence in plainness, economy, anil strength.

398. The Sellers Manufacturing Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

WIRE CLOTH FOR PAPER MACHINES.
Report. — Commended for excellence in quality of material and workmanship; very
heavy and flexible : seventy-two inches wide, thirty-six feet long.

399. Clinton Wire Cloth Co., Clinton, Mass., U. S.

WIRE FIRE-PROOF LATHING, FENCING, AND SCREENS.
Report. — Conui'.ended for excellence of workmanship, utility, and stren;^iJi : especial noie
taken of the wire lathing, as a means of protection from fire.

400. The Woven Wire Mattress Co., Hartford, Conn., U. S.

WIRE MATTRESS.
Report, — Commended for excellence, strength, peculiar weaving, adaptation, economy,
great durability, novelty of production.

401. G. Dc Witt, Brother, & Co., Belleville, N. J., U. S.

T ENTILATED ELASTIC BREAST PADS, FINE BRASS WIRE THREAD, AND FINE WIRE CLOTH.

Report. — Commended for excellence in material, flexibility in the combination of br.iss
wire and cotton threads, utility, and economy. One coil brass wire, five miles long, weighs
one jwund ; wire cloth 10,000 (ten thousand) holes or meshes per square inch.

402. John G. Avery, Worcester, Mass., U. S.

THREAD, TWrNK, AND CORD MACHINERY.

Report. — Commended for originality, perfection, and utility of machinery, fitness for the
purposes intendetl, quality of products, and economy of working.

Digitized by CjOOQIC

GROUP VIIL 73

403. Waiiam Crabb, Newark, N. J., U. S.

HACKLES, CARD CLOTHING, WOOL COMBS, PICKER TEETH, COMB PINS, AND GILLS.

Report, — Commended for superior quality and utility of all the numerous articles exhib-
ited, and fitness for their respective purposes.

404. Fairbaim, Kennedy, & Naylor, Leeds, England.

MACHINERY FOR PREPARING AND SPINNING JUTE, ETC.

Report, — Commended for excellence in design, arrangement, and construction of the
machines, and for the quality and economy of their productions.

405. Samuel Lawson & Sons, Hope F6undry, Leeds, England.

MACHINERY FOR CORDING, PREPARING, AND SPINNING JUTE, ETC.

Report. — Commended for excellence in design, arrangement, and construction, and
smoothness in working, of the machines, resulting in superior and economical production.

406. Howard & Bullough, Accrington, England.

CARDING ENGINE, DRAWING FRAME, AND INTERMEDIATE ROVING FRAME.

Report, — Commended for the very great novelty and originality of the electric stojv
motion, which overcomes one of the most serious difficulties incident to the intermediate
roving frame, and is also of great value as applied to the card and drawing frame; and for
good workmanship and excellence of machines.

407. Thomas Gadd, Manchester, England.

EIGHT-COLOR CALICO PRINTING BIACHINE AND STEAM ENGINE; ALSO ROLLER ENGRAVING

MACHINERY.

Report. — Commended for great excellence in design, arrangement, and construction,
fitness for the purposes intended, economy, and adaptation to public wants.

408. J. A. V. Smith, Manchester, N. H., U. S.

TUBULAR STEEL SPEEDER FLIERS.

Report. — Commended for lightness, strength, quality, and fitness of the fliers to the pur-
poses intended, and saving of power.

409. Providence Machine Co., Providence, R. I., U. S.

SLUBBING, INTERMEDIATE, AND FINE COTTON ROVING FRAME.

Report. — Commended for good workmanship and quality of machines, and for the supe-
nor work produced by iheni.

410. Greenwood & Batley (Albion Works), Leeds, England.

MACHINE TO TIE IN WARPS FOR LOOMS.

Report. — Commended for originality of invention, of construction, and of exhibition,
combined with utility, quality, skill, and superior workmanship. The object sought, lo tie
automatically instead of by hand, is completely achieved.

Digitized by CjOOQIC

74 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

411. Piatt Bfothera ft Co. (Limited), Oldham, England.

LONG STAPLE COTTON GIN.
Report, — Commended for originality of invention, perfection in construction, and adap-
tation to public wants in ginning of long staple cotton or "sea-island cotton." It ginned
in presence of the Judges in thirty minutes 247^ pounds of sea-bland long staple seed
cotton (or equal to the capacity of about a 25-saw gin on short staple cotton) without injury
to the lint, requiring about one-half the power of the saw gin, the work being perfectly
done.

412. William T. Horrobin, Cohocs, N. Y., U. S.

ANTI-FRICTION TOP ROLLERS.

Report, — Commended for excellent quality and fitness for the intended purpose, with
economy of cost and use.

413. Lewiston Machine Co., Lewiston, Me., U. S.

THOMAS'S POWER LOOMS AND WARPING MACHINE.

Report, — Commended for ingenuity, skill, quality, economy, and fitness of machines for
the production of plain and fancy fabrics and seamless bags.

414. Eaton ft Ayer, Nashua, N. H., U. S.

BOBBINS, SPOOLS, SHUTTLES, AND SKEWERS FOR SPINNING AND WEAVING.

Report, — Commended for good quality and workmanship. There are also features of
novelty and utility in the self-threading shuttles, and in the iron rings applied to spinning
bobbins, for the Sawyer and Rabbeth spindles; and also to roving bobbins.

415. A. B. Prouty, Worcester, Mass., U. S.

CARD SETTING MACHINE.

Report, — Commended because the machine possesses the important features of novelty
and utility, combined with simplicity of arrangement and action and excellent construction.
The work produced b superior in quality and economical in cost

416. The Dutcher Temple Co., Hopedale, Mass., U. S.

POWER LOOM TEMPLES.

Report, — Commended for excellent quality and eminent fitness for the intended purpose.

417. Saco Water- Power Machine Shop, Biddeford, Me., U. S.

MULE SPINNING, DRAWING, AND ROVING MACHINES.

Report, — Commended for originality, utility, and excellent quality of the machines, and
for the great consideration given to the details.

418. Geo. Draper ft Son, Hopedale, Mass., U. S.

SPINNING FRAME AND TWISTER WITH THE SAWYER SPINDLE; IMPkOVED SPOOLS, WARPER.
AND CREEL; SPINDLE; DOUBLE ADJUSTABLE RINGS.

Report, — Commended for variety of machines, with originality of invention, excellence
in quality, utility, and fitness for the purpose intended, economy of power and labor, and
excellence of work produced.

Digitized byCjOOQlC-

GROUP VIIL 75

» 419. Clark Thread Co., Newark, N. J., U. S.

SELF-ACTING MULTI-SPOOL WINDING MACHINE FOR SPOOLING THREAD AND COTTON.

Report, — Commended for originality and excellence of invention, fitness for the purpose
intended, good construction, and accurate working of machine, resulting in a superior
quality and great economy of winding.

420. Fales & Jenks Machine Co., Pawtucket, R. I., U. S.

mayor's COMBINED FLY FRAME AND SPEEDER.

Repork — Commended for good substantial machinery, novelty of details and action,
utility, fitness for the purpose intended, economy, and quality of work produced.

421. Knowles ft Brother, Worcester, Mass., U. S.

OPEN SHED FANCY LOOMS, FOR COTTON, WOOL, AND SILK.

Report. — Commended for originality of invention, substantial and good construction of
machinery, smoothness of working, facility for efiecting changes and for manipulating,
economy, quality and variety of work produced.

422. David McParland, Worcester, Mass., U. S.

CARD SETTING MACHINE.
Report, — Conmiended for simplicity and excellence of machine, and for the good quality
and economy of the work done by it.

423. H. W. Butterworth ft Sons, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

liRYING MACHINES FOR COTTON FABRICS, AND DYEING MACHINES FOR COTTON WARPS.

Report, — Commended as excellent in design, arrangement, and construction, possessing
features of novelty and utility, and fitness to the intended purposes.

424. Thomas Wood, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

POWER LOOMS AND WINDING MACHINE.

Report. — Commended for excellent construction, numerous features of novelty, simplicity,
and utility, facility for working, economy of labor in attending, cheapness, and quality of
work produced.

425. Richard Kitson Machine Co., Lowell, Mass., U. S.

COTTON OPENERS AND LAPPERS AND SHODDY PICKER.

Report. — Commended for originality ol invention in opener and in elastic beaters, as
well as for general good workmanship and utility in all the machines.

426. George Crompton, Worcester, Mass., U. S.

PLAIN AND FANCY POWER LOOMS FOR COTTON GOODS.
Report, — A large assortment of well designed and constructed looms, possessing great
range and capacity for the manufacture of figured cotton fabrics.

427. Foss ft Pevey, Lowell, Mass., U. S.

UNDER-FLAT COTTON CARD.

Report. — This machine has peculiarities of constniction which are original.

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76 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

428. Merrick Thread Co., Holjroke, Mass., U. S.

READY WOUND BOBBINS OF COTTON THREAD FOR SEWING-MACHINE SHUTTLES.

Report, — Commended for the very ingenious device for saving labor in their " patent"
ready-wound bobbins for use in sewing machines.

429. Willimantic Linen Co., Hartford, Conn., U. S.

SPOOL COTTON, FINE YARNS, AND MACHINES FOR WINDING AND TICKETING SPOOLS FOR

SEWING-THREADS.
Report, — Commended for originality and completeness of system, excellence of ma-
chinery and appliances, the winding-frame being the invention of Hezekiah Conant ; and
for sui>eriority and economy of production ; also for excellence of material and variety of
colors of threads.

430. Hope & Co., Providence, R. I., U. S.

PENTAGRAPH ENGRAVING &IACIIINE FOR CAUCO PRINTERS.

Report, — Commended for novelty in some of the details, and altogether beautifully and
accurately made.

431. Peter Lawson, Lowell, Mass., U. S.

IMPROVED COMPOSITION DRAWING OR ROVING CAN.

Report. — Commended for lightness, strength, handiness, and cheapness, as compared with
the ordinary can.

432. J. & W. Lyall, New York, N. Y., U. S.

I'OSITIVE-MOTION LOOMS, FOR CORSETS, CANVAS, SEAMLESS BAGS, JUTE CARPETS, COTTON

SHEETING, ETC.
Report, — Commended for the variety, extent, and importance of the looms, invention of
the positive motion, its wide range of applicability, fitness for the purposes intended, excel-
lence of design, construction, and working, utility, and economy.

433. Palmer Patent Tentering & Drjring Machine Co., Norwich, Conn., U. S.

MACHINE FOR STRETCHING, STRAIGHTENING, AND DRYING TEXTILE FARBICS.
Report, — Commended for originality, utility, and completeness of machine, excellence
of construction, fitness for the purposes intended, adaptation to public requirenienti, and
economy.

434. J. Morton Poole & Co., Wilmington, Del., U. S.

CALENDER ROLLS.

Report, — Commended for the excellent finish, beauty of the articles exhibited, as well
as the superior quality of the material.

435. R. D. Wood & Sons, MUlville, N. J., U. S.

CALENDER FOR COTTON GOODS.
Report. — Commended for good workmanship, material, and fitness for the intendeii
purpose.

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GROUP VIIL yj

436. S. N. Drake, New Orleans, La., U. S.
drake's patent cotton ties.
Report, — Commended for the simplicity, effectiveness, and applicability to purpose, of
the ho<^iron stamped and slotted ties for baling cotton.

437. Peabody Mills, Providence, R. I., U. S.

COLORED COTTON GOODS, PRINTS, AND COLORED SUITINGS.
Report. — Commended for superiority of fabric, smoothness, economy, and adaptation ;
colors clear and well defined, and in very large variety. Also for non-fading qualities of
colors.

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SIGNING JUDGES OF GROUP VIII.

The figures annexed to the names of the Judges indicate the reports written by them
respectively.

Isaac Watts, i, 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23,
24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 53, 54, 64, 65, 67, 71, 72, 73, 74, 117, 200, 207, 208, 211,
215, 224, 228, 234, 23s, 236, 237, 252, 253, 327, 328. ,

Samuel Webber, 5, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 45, 46, 49, 50, 51, 52, 56,
57» 58. 59' 61, 69, 80, 84, 85, 86, 87, 90, 91, 92, 93, 96, 98, 99, 100, 103, 104, 105.
106, 107, 109, no, 112, 113, 114, 115, 116, 118, 119, 120, 121, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126,
127, 128, 135, 136, 137, 138, 139, 140, 142, 153, 154, 155, 156, 157, 158, 159, 161, 165,
167, 170, 171, 172, 173, 174, 175, 176, 177, 178, 179, 180, 181, 182, 183, 184, 185, 186,
187, 188, 189, 190, 191, 192, 193, 194, 195, 196, 197, 198, 199, 205, 206, 212, 214, 220,
221, 223, 225, 226, 227, 229, 230, 231, 238, 239, 258, 259, 260, 261, 262, 263, 264, 269,
270, 271, 272, 273, 274, 275, 277, 278, 279, 282, 283, 284, 285, 286, 287, 288, 289, 290,
291, 292, 298, 299, 300, 301, 302, 303, 304, 305, 306, 307, 308, 309, 310, 311, 312, 313.
3H, 315. 316, 317* 318, 319, 320, 321, 322, 325. 326, 33i» 335» 337. 33^, 339. 353. 354.
358, 359, 360, 361, 362, 363. 364, 365. 366, 367, 368, 369, 370, 371, 372, 373, 374, 375,
376, 377. 378. 379. 380, 381, 382, 383. 384. 385, 386, 387, 388, 389. 390, 406. 426, 434,
435. 436.

E. Richardson, 37, 47, 48, 55, 68, 70, 160, 162, 163, 166, 340, 341, 342, 343, 348.

Edward Atkinson, 44, 164, 210, 276, 333, 428.

Chas. H. Wolff, 60, 66, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 81, 82, 83. 88, 89, 95, 97, loi, 108, iii,
129, 130, 131, 132, 133, 134, 141, 147, 148, 149, 150, 151, 152, 222, 233, 242, 246, 247,
248, 249, 251, 280, 281, 324, 329, 330, 332, 334. 391. 392. 393. 394. 395. 396. 397, 398,
399, 400, 401, 437.

A. GOLDY, 62, 63, 94, 102, 143, 144, 145, 146, 168, 169, 201, 202, 203, 204, 209, 213,
232, 243, 244, 245, 250, 254, 255, 256, 257, 265, 266, 267, 268, 293, 294, 295, 296, 297,

323. 350, 351. 352. 355, 356, 357.

Gustav Herrmann, 216, 217, 218, 219, 241,403,404,405,407,409,410,412,413,

417, 418, 420, 422.

William W. Hulse, 240, 402, 408, 4x4, 415. 4i6, 419. 420, 421, 423, 424. 427. 43o.

431. 432, 433.
Geo. O. Baker, 336, 345, 346, 347, 349, 4«««
H. Waddell, Jr., 344-
A. D. LocKwooD, ^25, 429

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SUPPLEMENT TO GROUP VIII.

REPORTS

JUDGES ON APPEALS.

JUDGES.

John Fritz, Bethlehem, Pa.
Edward Conley, Cincinnati, Ohio.
Charles Staples, Jr., Portland, Me.
Benj. F. Britton, New York City.
II. H. Smith, Philadelphia, Pa.

Coleman Sellers, Philadelphia, Pa.
James L. Claghorn, Philadelphia, Pa.
Henry K. Oliver, Salem, Mass.
M. WiLKiNS, Harrisburg, Oregon.
S. F. Baird, Washington, D. C.

I. R. T. White & Son, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

CARPET WARPS.

Report. — Commended for general good quality.

2. Parrish & Miller, Jefferson, Marion Co., Oregon, U. S.

FLAX IN THE STRAW AND LINT.
Report, — Commended for extraordinary length, great strength, superior gloss, and silky
softness.

3. Westbrook Manufacturing Co., Portland, Me., U. S.

COTTON DUCK.
Report. — Commended for great excellence in texture and uniform good Bnish.

4. The Utica Steam Cotton Mills, Utica, N. Y., U. S.

COTTON SHEETINGS AND SHIRTINGS, UNBLEACHED AND BLEACHED.

Report. — Commended as a fabric in various widths of great excellence in texture and
general finish.

5. Albion Print Works, Conshohocken, Pa., U. S.

DYEING AND PRINTING.

Report. — Commended for great variety of colors and excellence of dyeing and finishing
1x>th in solid colors and plain black for suiting.

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8o REPORTS ON AWARDS,

6. Farwell Mills, Lisbon, Me., U. S.

BLEACHED AND UNBLEACHED COTTON, SHEETINGS AND SHIRTINGS.

Report, — For uniform texture and excellent finish.

7. Clariana Ciuro Aug6 & Co., Qranollers, Barcelona, Spain.

COTTON PLAIDS.

Report* — Commended for enonomy in cost and fitness for purpose intended.

8. Angus Mackay, Queensland, Australia.

RAW COTTON.

Report, — ^An exhibit of cotton grown from American seed, cultivated by himself, of
excellent quality.

9. £. Ashworth & Sons, Bolton, England.

COTTON THREADS AND YARNS.

Report, — ^A good exhibit, especially in three, six, and nine ply on spools, showing great
excellence in strength and finish.

10. McTear & Co., Belfast, Ireland.

SHIP SHEATHING OF JUTE FELT IN BOTH VEGETABLE AND COAL TAR; BOILER FELTING.

Report, — Commended for good quality of material and workmanship.

II. Fredenck Facchini di Cesare, Bologna, Italy.

HEMP IN BRAIDS AND TWISTED.

Report, — Commended for superior quality for wearing purposes and adaptation to pur<
pose intended.

SIGNING JUDGES OF SUPPLEMENT TO GROUP VIII.

The figures annexed to the names of the Judges indicate the reports written by them
respectively.

B. F. Britton, I, 3, 4, 5» 6, 7, 8, 9.

M. WiLKINS, 2.

Coleman Sellers, 10,
Henry H. Smith, 11.

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GROUP IX.

WOOL AND SILK FABRICS.

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GROUP IX.

JUDGES.

AMERICAN.

John L. Hayes, Cambridge, Mass.

Elliot C. Cowdin, New York.

Charles Le Boutillier, Philadelphia,
Pi.

Charles J. Ellis, Philadelphia, Pa.

J. D. Lang, Vassal boro*, Maine.

FOREIGN.
GusTAV Gebhard, Germany.
Theodore Bochner, Jr., Austria.
Henry Mitchell, Great Britain.
Max Weigert, Germany.
Louis Chatel, France.
Carl Arnberg, Sweden.
Hay AMI Kenzo, Japan.
John G. Neeser, Switzerland.
August Behmer, Egypt.
Albert Daninos, Turkey.

Edwajld H. Knight was assigned as expert from Group XXII to assist in examina-
fionfi gf woolen and silk machinery.

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GROUP IX.

WOOL AND SILK FABRICS, INCLUDING THE MATERIALS
AND THE MACHINERY.

WOVEN AND FELTED GOODS OF WOOL, AND MIXTURES OF WOOL.

Class 667. — Wool in the fleece, in bales, and carded.

Class 235. — Card wool fabrics, — ^yams, broadcloth, doeskins, fancy cassimeres.
Felted goods. Hat bodies.

Class 236. — Flannels, — plain flannels, domets, opera and fancy.

Class 237. — Blankets, robes, and shawls.

Class 238. — Combed wool fabrics, — worsteds, yams, dress goods for women's wear,
delaines, serges, poplins, merinoes.

Class 239. — Carpets, rugs, etc., — Brussels, Melton, tapestry, tapestry Brussels, Ax-
minster, Venetian, ingrain, felted carpetings, druggets, rugs, etc.

Class 240. — Hair, — alpaca, goat's hair, camel's hair, and other fabrics mixed or
unmixed with wool.

Class 241. — Printed and embossed woolen cloths, table covers, patent velvets.

Class 522. — Machines for the manufacture of woolen goods.

SILK AND SILK FABRICS, AND MIXTURES IN WHICH SILK IS THE
PREDOMINATING MATERIAL.

Class 242. — Cocoons and raw silk as reeled from the cocoon ; thrown or twisted
silks in the gum.

Class 243. — Thrown or twisted silks, boiled off or dyed ; in hanks, skeins, or on
spools.

Class 244. — Spun silk yams and fabrics, and the materials from which they are
made.

Class 245. — Plain woven silks, lutestrings, sarsenets, satins, serges,. foulards, tissues
for hat and millinery purposes, etc.

Class 246. — Figured silk piece goods, woven or printed. Upholstery silks, etc.

Class 247. — Crapes, velvets, gauzes, cravats, handkerchiefs, hosiery, knit goods,
laces, scarfs, ties, veils, all descriptions of cut and made-up silks.

Class 248. — Ribbons, — plain, fancy, and velvet.

Class 249. — Bindings, — braids, cords, galloons, ladies' ^ess trimmings, upholsters',
tailors', military, and miscellaneous trimmings.

Class 520. — Machines for the manufacture of silk goods.

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GENERAL REPORT

OF THE

JUDGES OF GROUP IX.

Philadelphia, December, 1876.
Prof. Francis A. Walker, Chief of the Bureau of Awards :

Sir, — In pursuance of instructions from your Bureau, that each
group of Judges should submit a report exhibiting a survey of the
Exhibition in their particular department, embodying the instructive
facts observed and conclusions suggested in their examination, the
Judges of Group IX. have authorized the undersigned to present
the results of their examination. In the consultations .upon the
awards to exhibitors, among the members of this group, who repre-
sented ten different nationalities, all national distinctions were ignored,
and so full was the interchange of opinion among the Judges, and so
absolute the harmony of sentiment, that an individual member of the
group can hardly fail to express the common opinion.
Respectfully submitted,

JOHN L. HAYES.

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INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

GROUP IX.
WOOL AND SILK FABRICS.

by' JOHN L. HAYES.

CLASS 667. — Wool in the Fleece, in Bales, and Carded.

Leading all nations in the supply of this material, the group of
British colonies in the Southern Hemisphere, known as Australia,
makes itself most conspicuous. The colonies of New South Wales,
Victoria, South Australia, Queensland, Tasmania, Western Australia,
and New Zealand, although separate political organizations, exhibit
so marked a nationality in this common production, that we are
compelled to consider them as one.

Foreign Judges, who were familiar with the great European Expo-
sitions, concur in pronouncing the exhibition of wools by Australia
at the International Exhibition of 1876 as surpassing any ever before
made. The colonies vied with one another in making their exhibits
upon a scale proportionate to their vast power of production. Thus
the wools of each exhibitor were shown in bales, in numerous fleeces,
and illustrative samples, as produced from ewes, rams, hoggets, and
lambs, as unwashed, cold-washed, and hot-water-washed, and as
adapted for combing or for clothing purposes. Of course, the char-
acteristic feature of the display was the capacity of Australia for the
culture of wool of the Merino breed, adapted to the present exigencies
of the manufacturing nations, for the exhibition of wool of other
breeds by Australia was comparatively unimportant. The fibre of
this breed was shown here in the utmost perfection, both in staple and
condition, for all ordinary purposes of manufacture, with a production
already of great proportions, yet constantly enlarging. When we
consider the wide ada^ation of this fibre to the- uses both of luxury
and necessity, and remember that it was for centuries the monopoly
of a single nation, refused even to its colonies; that when Spain
relaxed her monopoly, scarcely over a centur}'^ ago, it was only in
favor of the kings of Europe ; and that the Merinos procured from '
Spain by George III., in 1792, in exchange for eight carriage-horses,

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. 3

were literally the direct source of the Australian wool-husbandry,
we must regard the Australian exhibit as one of the most striking
illustrations of the world's acquisitions within the last century.

The only deficiency attending this exhibit — one which the high
culture and science of these colonies might have easily supplied —
was the want of systematized information as to the statistics of wool-
production and sheep-husbandry, the methods of improvement, and
the details which would be interesting to the practical shepherd. This
deficiency, in some respect supplied by the several Commissioners,
and by personal inquiries and reference to trustworthy authorities,
forbids the fullness of information in this report which the importance
of the Australian wool-production demands.

The number of sheep in Australia, according to the latest returns,
is stated in the following communications :

"St. George's House, Fairmount Park,
" Philadelphia, September 2, 1876. .

" Sir, — With reference to your letter of the 28th ultimo, I beg to

send you a copy of a letter which I have just received from Mr.

Robinson, Secretary of the New South Wales Commission.

" I have the honor to be, sir, your obedient servant,

"A. J. R. TRENDELL.

" John L. Hayes, Esq., i i Pemberton Square, Boston, Mass."

[Enclosure. — Copy.]

" Philadelphia.

" Sir, — In reply to your letter of yesterday's date, covering a com-
munication from Mr. Hayes, I have the honor to inform you that the
number of sheep in the Australian colonies in the year 1874, the
latest year for which I have statistics, was as follows :

" New South Wales 22,872,882

Victoria 11,225,206

South Australia 6,120,211

Queensland 7,268,946

Tasmania 1,714,168

Western Australia 777,86i

New Zealand 11,704,853

61,684,127

"The number at the present time would be very much larger, but
I regret that I cannot inform Mr. Hayes what is the average rate of
yearly increase. The production of wool may be arrived at on the
basis of the average clip, which I believe to be 2^ pounds of washed
wool for each fleece. If Mr. Hayes consults the export returns of
the different colonies, it may be important that he should know that

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4 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

a large quantity of Queensland-grown wool is exported from Sydney,
and that much of the wool grown in New South Wales is shipped
from Victoria and South Australia, owing to their 'exceptional facilities
for water and railroad carriage.

" The statistical returns of the different colonies would, without a
knowledge of this fact, be very misleading, by the wool-production
of Australia being made to appear vastly greater than it is in fact.
" I have the hotior, etc.,

"CHAS. ROBINSON. Secretary,
'' New'South Wales Commissioner"

The report of 1870, of H. Schwartz & Co., of London, very high
authorities in wool statistics, states the exports of Australian wool in
1875-6 as follows:

Great Britain 771,786 bales.

United States 5,807 "

Continental Countries 2,414 "

Total 78o,cx>7 "

This amount, according to their estimates, is equal to 247,700,000
pounds.

The report for 1874, of Mr. Alexander Bruce, the chief inspector
of live-stock in New South Wales, declared to be a high authority,
gives the following instructive facts in relation to the sheep of that
colony, and may be regarded as illustrative of all the colonies :

1. Number. — The number of sheep in the colony in 1874 was
20,709,338, and 22,767,416 in 1875, being an increase in 1875 of
2,058,078.

2. Combing and Clothing. — The returns give 6,100,000 combing
sheep, and 5,490,000 clothing, while with respect to 6,420,000, it is
not stated whether they are combing or clothing, and in many cases
owners give no information.

3. Long-wooled and Cross-bred Sheep. — Of these some 125,000 are
returned, and they are given as being of the following breeds: Leices-
ters, 15,881 ; Lincolns, 9771 ; Downs and other breeds, 37,583; and
Cross-bred sheep, 62,242.

4. How kept. — In 395 cases sheep are returned as depastured in
paddocks, in 504 as shepherded, in 88 as both in paddocks and shep-
herded, and in 381 cases no informtition is given on this point.

5. Improvement. — On 681 holdings the sheep are reported to be
improving, on 43 as deteriorating, on 72 as stationary, and 548 owners
make no returns.

6. Stud Sheep. — The returns show that of these sheep there were

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, 5

23412 introduced; of which 18,086 were Merinos, 343 Leicesters,
4741 Lincolns, and 42 Downs.

7. Fencing. — It heis proved advantageous to inclose flocks within
fences on the following accounts: a. Improvement. — (i) In the health
and soundness of the sheep; (2) in their size and stamina; (3) in the
quantity and quality of wool ; (4) in the carrying capability of the
holding, b. Saving. — (i) In expense of management; (2) in the losses
arising from shepherding, especially from bad shepherds, c. Advan-
tages to Owner. — It relieves him from the trouble of managing shep-
herds and hut-keepers, and allows him time to attend to the improve-
ment of the breed of his sheep, d. General Benefit. — This is stated
by owners to be an increase of the value of a run of from 20 to 60
per cent.

8. Lambing. — The general average of shepherded flocks was 72^
per cent; of paddocked sheep 75 per cent.; and of sheep depastured
both ways 74^ per cent.

9. Clip. — The yield of wool per sheep, in 1874, was as follows :

Creasy. Ibt. on.

The average clip of greasy wool in shepherded sheep was . 4 3^

" " " paddocked sheep was .... 4 I5|^

" " " both 4 10,5;^

Creek-washed,

The average clip of shepnerded sheep was . . . . 2 I2j^

" " " paddocked 3 4^

" . " " both 2 \z^

Hot-water-washed,

The average clip of shepherded sheep was .... 2 8^

" " " paddocked 3 2

" *« " both 2 i\^

Scoured,

The average clip of shepherded sheep was .... 2 2-^

" «* " paddocked 2 8

" " " both 2 10

10. Difference in Weight between Combing and Clothing. — On this
point 1238 owners give no information, 75 ■** cannot say," 4 report
that there is no difference, 32 that there is a slight difference in favor
of combing; 4 put the difference at 8 ounces, 2 at 12 ounces, i at 16
ounces, 4 more at more than 16 ounces, and 6 state that combing is
the more profitable.

The important facts presented by this statement are, that more than
half the sheep produce combing wool ; the respective weights of the

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6 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

greasy, creek-washed, hot-water- washed, and scoured wools ; and the
positive testimony, which should be specially noted by the California
wool-growers, as to the advantages of fenqing sheep. It is obvious
that this must depend somewhat upon the nature of the feed and
general custom of the country, and still more upon whether the flock-
masters own the land or pasture at large. In this connection it
may be noted that Mr. Bruce elsewhere states that the fence most
approved for sheep and cattle is a fence with split posts, one split
top-rail, and five wires.

SOUTH AUSTRALIAN WOOL.

The following communication from the Commissioner of another
colony. South Australia, gives interesting facts as to the weight of
fleeces and extent of the flocks of individual flock-masters :

" Philadelphia,
*' Main Building, 8th June, 1876.

"To THE Judges of Wool, International Exhibition, 1876:

"Gentlemen, — As Commissioner for South Australia, I have the
honor to subjoin a statement of the weight of fleeces of wool exam-
ined by you in this court; taking first a copy of the declared weights
of some wool in bales seen by you, and of which you have the
growers* names, and then appending the weights of fleeces you desired
should be weighed in the Main Building.

" 1st. Declared Weights of Wool exhibited all Unwashed,
" MooRAK Wool. (W. T. Brown.)

No. of Bales and Classes

Contents In

Average Weight of

Age of Sheep.

of Sheep.

Fleeces.

Ibt.

Fleece,
ozs. dwt.

No. I. Ewes.

. 14

9 2A

3 years.

" 2. Hoggets ,

. 15

3 3A

18 mos.

" 3. Lambs

. 20

12 I2iJ

■ 4 "

" 4. Wethers .

. . 15

6 6A

2 years.

* N.B. — ^40,000 sheep are pastured at Moorak.

" WoNOKA Wool. (Hayward, Armstrong, & Co.)

\, of Itales and Gasses

Contents in

Average Weight of

Age of Sheep.

of Sheep.

Fleeces.

lbs.

Fleece,
ozs. dwt.

No. I. Ewes .

. H

> ^

3 years.

" 2. Hoggets •

. 13

4 14H

18 mos.

«« 3. Lambs

. 20

" 3A

5 "

*« 4. Wethers

. 12

3 years.

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GENERAL REPORT OF TIJE JUDGES OF GROUP IX.

" Welpena Wool. (Price & Browne.)

No. of Bales and Classes

Contents in Average Weight of

Age of Sheep.

of Sheep.

Fleeces. Fleece.

lbs. ozs. dwt.

No. I. Ewes .

. . " 7 II 3A

3 years.

" 2. Hoggets

• -12 7 5 5A

18 mos.

" 3. Wethers

.10 8 II 3,^

3 years.

" 4. Lambs

.16 37
"J. Keynes Wool.

5 mos.

No. of Bales and Oass

Contents in Average Weight of

Age of Sheep.

of Sheep.

Fleeces. Fleece.

lbs. ozs. dwt.

No. I. Wethers .... 15 9

* N.B. — 13,000 sheep are kept by Mr, Keynes.

4 teeth.

"Allan McFarlane Wool (MF).

No. of Bales and Class Contents in Average Weight of

of Sheep. Fleeces. Fleece.

Jbs. ozs. dwt.
No. I. Ewe, with lamb . . 15 6 well sorted.

"N.B.— 15,500 sheep are kept by Mr. McFarlane.

" COLLINGROVE WoOL. (J. H. AugaS.)

Age of Sheep.

3 years.

No. of Bales and Classes
of Sheep.

Contents in
Fleeces.

Average Weight of
Fleece.

Age of Sheep.

No. I. Ewes .

. Not stated.

lbs. ozs. dwt.
610

2 teeth.

** 2. Ewe Hoggets
" 3. Wet Ewes .
" 4. Lambs
« 5. Lambs

. . 25
Not given.

u
tt

7 loX ...
Not given.
«
«

2 and 4 tee

4 and 5 "

Not given.
«

" 2d. Weights of Fleeces weighed in the Building, as requested.

" Fleeces exhibited by J. Keynes. (Merino Wool.)
Fleece I weighs nibs. 6 ozs. o dwt.

• I

weighs

10 "

12 "

II "

10 "

II "

8 "

12 "

7 "

8 "

(Merino

Wool.)

12 lbs.

II ozs.

8 dwt

12 "

2 "

8 "

15 "

II "

0 "

14 "

5 "

0 "

15 "

13 "

0 "

15 «

3 "

8 «

"Fleeces exhibited by Thos. Graham. (Mixed, Lincoln and Leicester.) •

No. I weighs ,3 lbs. nozs. odwt

*t t* tt

2 II «* 6 " 12 "

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8 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

No. 3 weighs 11 lbs. 15 ozs. o dwt

«« 4 «« 12 " 9 " 8 "

" 5 «« 10 " 2 " o "

«« 6 " 13 " 3 " o "

" I have the honor to be your obedient servant,

"SAM. DAVENPORT,
" Special Commissioner for South Australia^

A brief review of the methods by which the Australian sheep-
husbandry has reached its present commanding position, with a
presentation of some of the instructive facts in relation to the
Merino culture drawn from Australian experience, is justified by the
importance of the subject. The principal sources of this review are
responses to personal inquiries, or information obtained from or con-
firmed by the respective colonial Commissioners. Of the works
having this sanction, the most important are Mr. Graham's treatise on
the Australian Merino and the New South Wales Wool Inquiry, pub-
lished in 1 87 1 by the Agricultural Society of New South Wales.

Captain John McArthur, an officer of the British army, who had
landed at Sydney in 1790, just two years after it had been formed
into a penal settlement, was the first to observe that the fleeces of
the hairy Bengal sheep, brought from the Cape of Good Hope, had
in some way become sensibly improved. Conceiving the idea that
the soil and climate of the settlement were peculiarly adapted for
the production of fleeces of the best quality, he induced the importa-
tion of a small flock of Merino sheep which had been sent to the
Cape of Good Hope by the Dutch Government. In 1803 he took
with him to England samples of wool from the crosses which he had
made of coarse-wooled ewes with Spanish rams. At that period all
the fine cloths of England were made of wool imported from Spain.
Fortunately, Captain McArthur arrived in England at a time when
the English manufacturers were alarmed lest their wool-supply from
Spain should be cut off" by a threatened war. Through the influence
of these manufacturers Captain McArthur secured assent from the
British Secretary of State for the Colonies to his application for a
grant of ten thousand acres of land in New South Wales for carry-
ing on the growth of fine wool for export. He also obtained a few
Spanish Merinos from the royal flock of George HI., these Merinos
being the "twin Cabana with the French Imperial Cabana Ram-
bouillet." Having arrived in the colony with his chosen flock, which
was placed upon the tract of land secured by his grant, he commenced
the reclamation of his estate and the creation of fine-wool flocks,

through the persistent use of the George III. rams upon so sorry a lot

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. g

of sheep that " long years were taken to eliminate the bad qualities
of the pristine animals, on which he bred/' For years the only efforts
for improvement were made by himself, and so slow was his progress
" that it took some twenty-three years" to perfect the pure breed of
Australian Merinos. In iSiothe exportation was only 167 pounds;
in 1820, 99,415; in 1826, 806,302 pounds. The best growers in the
colony "bred from McArthur ewes." "From about 1829 to 1840,"
says Mr. Graham, " the Australian wool had a character so uniform
and fixed that an English wool-broker or sorter could with certainty
select by the touch alone, from a bale of others, a Botany Bay fleece,
as they were called." The sheep, however, were small, the ewes
weighing not more than 30 to 34 pounds each, and the wool wanting
in denseness, the animals being bred mainly for fineness, in which
they excelled. Smallness of size still appears to be the general char-
acter of Australian sheep, as shown by the average yield of unwashed
wool per sheep in New South Wales, — 4 pounds 9 ounces. After the
time of Mr. McArthur, who died in 1834, many breeders, by selecting
the largest and best-wooled sheep to breed from every year, and by
keeping their runs understocked, or by liberal feeding, imparted size
and density of fleece to the Australian Merinos, the ewes of some
flocks attaining an average weight of 70 pounds.

After 1835, stud sheep were largely imported from abroad; and
attempts were made to improve the Australian Merinos by crosses of
the English races, — the Leicesters, Lincolns, and Downs, — not only
with signal failure, but with incalculable injury to the most of the
Merinos.

The Rambouillet sheep were also largely introduced, but without
benefit, in the opinion of Mr. Graham, because without artificial sus-
tenance they were too large for the country. The German sheep, im-
ported at great expense, produced no benefit either in quality of wool
or weight of fleece. Recently, Vermont sheep have been introduced,
and Mr. Graham says, " of all imported sheep those of our first
cousins, the Americans, are the best."

The results of Australian experience would seeip to show that,
climate has less to do with the excellence of Merino wools than is
commonly supposed. The "Salt-bush" country (a region of ex-
cessive heat) can, and does in some instances, produce as heavy or
valuable wool as do any other portions of the colonies ; and wool of
the Darling Downs within the tropics, grown by a careful and judi-
cious system of selection, is unexceptionable, although known as a
"hot country wool." Still, Australia confirms the theory of scientific
writers, that the natural region for Merino sheep is the region of the

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lO INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

vine, for the excellent wines of these colonies were among the most
characteristic of their productions shown at the Exhibition.

Another lesson taught by the Australian sheep-husbandry, and con-
firmed by notes taken at the Exhibition, is the advantage of close
breeding. Mr. Graham says that for a period of twenty-five years he
was engaged in testing the value of in-and-in breeding. By in-breed-
ing he does not mean indiscriminate breeding without selection, but,
on the contrary, breeding with judicious selection, — that is, rejecting
the faulty sheep, male and female, and breeding only from the perfect.
With this qualification, he remarks, ** I say that I never saw an entire
flock of really good sheep that was not wholly composed of in-bred
animals, and I think it scarcely possible to breed good sheep without
having recourse to in-breeding."

It was interesting to observe that these views were confirmed by
memoranda attached to Australian fleeces displayed at the Exhibition ;
memoranda made, of course, without reference to any theory of
breeding. Some of these memoranda were as follows :

" Gore & Co., Yandella, Queensland. Combing ewe, bred pure
within their own flocks for 21 years; bred in paddocks entirely on
indigenous grasses."

"C. B. Fisher, East Haddington Hill, Darling Downs District,
Queensland. This clip has been bred in Adelaide, South Au.stralia,
40 years in-and-in to their own blood, and has been acclimated in
Queensland 7 years ; pronounced by Chamber of Commerce to be
the most essentially combing wool.*'

•* George Clark, Queensland. Sheep improved by Tasmanian
Merinos bred pure for more than 50 years."

" C. H. Grison, Queensland. Bred within their own blood many
years. Undoubtedly one object of this close-breeding with large
flock-masters is to preserve the special characteristics of the wool
approved by their old controversies."

It is well known that so uniform are the characteristics in certain
flocks, and so high the probity of the growers, that the clips of some
proprietors are purchased by the same customers from year to year
almost without testing. This uniformity and reliability is one of the
great advantages to the manufacturer of having sheep-husbandry
pursued on a large scale. He may select from one or two clips with
certainty the precise wools adapted to his fabrics. This advantage
has already been perceived in purchases from California, where wool-
growing in large flocks has begun to be pursued by capitalists, as in
Australia, systematically.

Sheep-husbandry being — not even excepting the gold-mining inter-

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. u

ests — of the first importance in the Australian colonies, is pursued by
capitalists and men of intelligence. Relieved, as the proprietors are,
fi-om an expense of northern climates, — that of providing shelter and
stores of winter fodder ; winter production not being required, and the
indigenous grasses being nutritious even when dried, — the principal
outlay required in addition to that for stock is for providing an unin-
terrupted supply of water. The destructive droughts of 1866 have
led to provisions for this supply on the broadest scale. Precautionary
measures have been taken over the length and breadth of Australia
against the failure of water. At enormous expense, dry water-courses
have been converted into permanent rivers, reservoirs and tanks have
been constructed, wells have been dug and dams made, and the sta-
tions so provided with water as to prevent the recurrence of the
catastrophe of 1866.

The expense of transportation to the very distant markets making
the weight of the dirt and yolk of the wool a serious item, the washing
of the wool on the sheep is conducted with a thoroughness nowhere
else known. The washed wools, whether cold- or hot- water-washed,
extensively exhibited at the Exhibition in bales and cases, could
scarcely be distinguished from sound or absolutely clean wools.

Attention is given to every detail connected with the manufacture
of wool, as in the shearing. The uniformity of the clipping in fleeces
exhibited at the Exhibition, the steps usually made by the shears
being scarcely visible, was the subject of favorable comment by our
wool-growers ; yet the price paid the shearers, reported in the official
record of Victoria, is only 14 shillings 4 pence for every hundred
animals shorn.

The Wool Inquiry, instituted by the Agricultural Society of New
South Wales, is illustrative of the high intelligence with which the
wool industry of the Australian colonies is pursued. The main sub-
jects of the inquiry were. What descriptions of wool are now likely to
be most in demand, and what are the best modes of preparing the
wool and putting it in the market ? Circulars containing interroga-
tories, all pertinent to the general question, were addressed to the
most eminent wool houses and chambers of commerce of England.
Full answers to these interrogatories by thoroughly-informed per-
sons and commercial bodies in England are published in the Wool
Inquiry, As the readers of this report will be principally those
interested in wool-production, we may be permitted to condense
some of the most important points presented in these answers.

As to the distinction between combing and clothing Australian
wools, writes one of the respondents, Southey, Baline, & Co., " All

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12 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

wools of Australian production can be used for clothing, but by no
means all for combing. There are limits as regards length of staple,
in the first place, and other requisites, such as soundness and elasticity,
necessary for the latter purpose. It will be clear, therefore, that,
within these conditions, no line of distinction can be drawn above or
below which it can be said that this or that sample is a clothing-wool
and a clothing-wool only, a combing-wool and a combing-wool only."

The committee, in their interrogatories, proposed for combing-wool
the following points of excellence, or questions, which should distin-
guish a true combing-wool, viz., ist, weight; 2d, color or lustre;
3d, length; 4th, freeness ; 5th, fineness; 6th, elasticity ; 7th, softness ;
8th, soundness ; 9th, evenness of fleece ; and requested their respond-
ents to divide a thousand points among them according to their
respective values.

J. T. Siraes & Co. reply : " Soundness is the first requisite in comb-
ing descriptions ; next, length up to three and a half inches for fine
Merino. This desideratum is a most essential one in combing de-
scriptions. We should place the characteristics of a Merino combing-
wool in the following order and value: Soundness, 300; length, 250;
freeness, 175; weight, 100 (important to growers); evenness, 75;
elasticity, 50; fineness, 50. Lustrous color is scarcely an element in
Merino combing."

H. Schwartze : ** Soundness and quality, not singly but combined,
constitute the most valuable feature of a combing-, small growth and
softness that of a clothing-wool."

Hazard & Caldicott give the following statement of the relative
importance of qualities in combing-wools : Length, 170; density, 60;
softness, 80; fineness, 50; elasticity, 90; evenness of fleece, 80;
soundness, 170; weight, 150.

A similar question was proposed by the Agricultural Society in
relation to the desirable qualities of clothing-wools.

To this Jacomb, Son, & Co. reply : ** The chief requisites of a good
clothing-wool are fineness, density, softness, and fitting qualifications."

H. Schwartze : " Small growth, softness, etc., combined, constitute
the most valuable features of a clothing-wool."

J. T. Simes & Co. : " Clothing-wool may be estimated by the fol-
lowing points : Firmness, 300; softness, 200 ; density, 150; evenness,
100; elasticity, 100; weight, 100; soundness, 50."

Hazard & Caldicott give the following statement for clothing-
wools: Length, 50; density, 140; softness, 80; elasticity, 170; even-
ness of fleece, 80; soundness, 80; condition, 140; weight, 150.

As to the question whether combing- or clothing-wools are likely

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, 13

to be in most demand, the answers are substantially that the greater
demand at present for combing-wools is due in some measure to
the fashion for worsted coatings, but that no one can with certainty-
forecast the future. As to prices, it is said there is a difference of
opinion, but the preponderance is that the best clothing-wools bring
the highest prices, although they have less weight As to shearing
and shipping in grease, it is answered that this is almost wholly
dependent upon local circumstances, such as the washing facilities
at the statk)n, though the washed condition is that most generally
acceptable to various buyers and consumers. For uses in which
color is an important quality, the unwashed wools stand at a dis-
advantage, as there is " a greater difficulty in procuring a bright color
from wools which have been packed and shipped in the grease." The
Bradford Chamber of Commerce decidedly recommends washing as
"pecuniarily most advantageous to the grower."

As to cold- or hot-water-washing, the preponderance of opinion
appears to be, that there is very little to choose between the two
processes where both are efficiently and skillfully applied.

In reply to the question. What proportion of yolk should be retained
in the wool ? all agree that just sufficient yolk should be retained to
give a ** kindly handle" to the fleece, the amount being variously
put at from 10 to 20 per cent. Webster, Dewall, & Co., say ** the
sheep should be allowed 48 hours minimum run between washing
and shearing, but in cold weather more time might be required. No
yolk should be retained, but it should be allowed to rise again after
washing to the extent of 20 per cent. After washing, the fleece
should be allowed to dry thoroughly on the sheep's back, and only
sufficient yolk should be allowed to rise to give the wool a soft and
silky feel. In fact, the aim under all circumstances, whatever process
of washing maybe adopted, ought to be to give this soft, silky handle.
The slight quantity of yolk tends to preserve the wool, and cause it
to retain its natural elasticity and strength."

In answer to the question as to sorting and skirting and packing,
the respondents recommend that ** fleeces should be carefully skirted
and stripped of all locks, bellies, and stained, burry, or seedy pieces,
great care being taken that shanks or kimpy hairs are not folded in
the fleece. The pieces should include the pole-lock, belly-piece,
skirting, and shank, and any portion towards the extremities which
are either stained or badly infested with burr or seed, and by the
removal of which the rest of the fleece will remain comparatively
free from faults." In respect to the classing of wools, Mr. Schwartze
says, "With very superior brands elaborate sorting is desirable. In
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14 INTERNA no IV A L EXHIBITION, 1876.

the case of medium and good wools, the separation into young wool,
first and second combing, first and second clothing, cross-bred lambs,
pieces, and locks is all that is required, while with superior and faulty
wools plentiful skirting is sufficient."

This long abstract of the Wool Inquiry will be excused, as it
serves to answer questions directly presented to the observer by the
peculiarities of the Australian wool exhibits ; while the whole review
of the Australian wool industry anticipates many points which would
arise in considering the Merino wool-culture of other countries.

It is a natural inquiry whether the Australian wools will continue
to increase in the accelerating ratio which has been witnessed in
recent years. In the last decade the increase in New South Wales
has been threefold, the numbers of sheep in 1866 being 8.132. 511.
while the returns for the year 1875 reached nearly 25.000,000. The
Commissioners of this colony declare in their Official Catalogue that
if seasons continue propitious, and prices are maintained at anything
like the present rates, the probability is very great that another ten
years will see New South Wales doubling the number of her sheep,
and able to exhibit a return of 40,000,000 or 50,000,000.

ARGENTINE REPUBLIC.

The country ranking second in importance in the supply of the
wools of commerce is the Argentine Republic. The number of
sheep, as stated by Dr. Oldendorff, the Chief Commissioner of this
Republic at the Exhibition, from a numeration made by himself as
Commissioner of her Agricultural Department, is 57,501,200, with
an annual yield of 216,000,000 pounds of wool, all of which, as there
are only one or two wool-manufacturers, may be said to be destined
for export.

The details as to the numbers and distribution in the several prov-
inces of this Republic, as furnished by Dr. Oldendorff, from the census
of 1876, are as follows:

Number. Value.

Buenos Ayres 45»5ii»358 $72,818,172

Entre Rios 3,000,000 3,600,000

Santiago 1,200,000 960,000

Santa F6 ' 4,500,000 3,600,000

Corrientes 77,846^ 878,000

Cordova 1,405,638 1,060,000

San Luis 113,815 170,000

Cataraarca 114,420 145,000

* This probably should have been 770,846, as indicated by the value.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, 15

Number.

Value.

53>932

$108,000

70,000

56,000

53,856

94,500

120,200

285,000

514,621

331,473

64,930

46,000

57,800,616

$84,152,145

La Rioja
Tucuman
Mendoza
San Juan
Jujuy .
Satta .

The chief, though not to our own country the most important,
portion of these exports consists of Merino wools. The exhibits of
wools from the Argentine Republic, at the Exhibition, with the ex-
ception of that of Mr. Samuel B. Hale, scarcely did justice to the im-
portance of this production. The most noticeable feature was the
enormous size of some of the fleeces of Merino wool of the Ram-
bouillet and Negretti stock, — one fleece, a pure-bred Negretti raqi,
grown in eleven months and eighteen days, weighed 31 pounds; other
Rambouillet fleeces weighed 25 and 27 pounds. Two pelts were shown
from sheep of the same race, one of which measured 5 feet 6 inches
in length, and 4 feet in width at the hips, with a staple 9 inches in
length. These fleeces, although they may exhibit the recent attempts
for improvement, do not illustrate the general character of the Merino
wool of this country. The general characteristic of these wools is
lightness of fleece, the weight not usually much exceeding three
pounds in the grease to the fleece. They are fine, soft, and short, and
principally suited for the card, though generally wanting in strength
and nerve. Their principal defect, however, is the clinging to the
fleece of the carratilla or burr from the clover or white medoc on
which these sheep feed, which seems to be inseparably connected
with the productive lands and best pasturage. Notwithstanding these
defects, which are obviated by burring machinery, and more recently
by chemical processes applied either to the wool or to the cloth, these
wools are in high esteem with the cloth-manufacturers, especially of
Belgium and France.

The Argentine Republic vies with Australia in representing the
results of the Merino wool-culture in the last century. The raising
of fine sheep was not seriously commenced until 1826, when it
began with the importation of good Merino animals, with German
shepherds, under the direction of Messrs. Hannah & Sheridan, whose
establishment still survives. When fairly commenced the production
increased with an accelerating ratio. The exports rose from 944
bales in 1832, to 3577 in 1840, an increase of 280 per cent, in eight
years. In 1850, it attained 17,069 bales, an increase in ten years of
380 per cent.

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l6 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

This Republic, with a climate where the cold of winter is so mod-
erate as to exhibit no more severe effects than slight hoar-frosts
which disappear with the morning's sun, with an extensive seaboard,
an internal and arterial system of rivers counted among the finest in
the world, and with a soil furnished by a rich and vast alluvial plain
on a subsoil of silicious clay, would seem to have a capacity for an
unlimited wool-production of Merino wool. It would be well if the
same could be said of another branch of wool, the product of the
same country, — that proceeding from the indigenous races, or rather
the descendants of the coarse Spanish sheep introduced by the con-
querors in the middle of the sixteenth century. These wools, pro-
ceeding from Churros sheep of Spain which have not been crossed
with the Merinos, proceed from flocks found in the Sierra of Cordova,
at an altitude of from three thousand to five thousand feet, also from
other provinces of the Argentine Republic, as shown at the Exhi-
bition, each known by the name of the province. The wool, long,
though coarse, and produced in small fleeces, is in great demand in
the United States for the manufacture of carpets. A plateau plain in
the province of Cordova, of eight hundred superficial leagues in ex-
tent, at an elevation of above ten thousand feet, produces sheep of
this race which bear much larger fleeces of long carpet-wools. Some
of the pelts were shown at the Exhibition. The tendency is for these
wools to constantly increase relatively in value, as they are grown
only by the rudest people, who are rather diminishing than increasing
in numbers. The question of the future supply of these wools is,
therefore, one of serious consideration with carpet-manufacturers.

Three specimens of fleeces, styled " Lana de Lina," were also
shown. These are the wools of the cross of the sheep and the goat.
They resemble in appearance the wools of the sheep of the several
provinces where they were grown, but are more wiry and slippery.
Dr. Oldendorff, who is a man of thorough scientific and practical
information upon all subjects connected with agriculture, and who
has resided in Buenos Ayres for twenty years, being now the head of
the agricultural department of the Argentine Republic, says that they
are the offspring of the male goat and the ewe, never of the ram and
the female goat, and are invariably sterile. The skins, dressed, are
called pellones, and are used by the natives to cover their saddles. In
traveling over the mountains, frequently eight or nine are put upon
the saddle, on top of which the driver sits. They serve for his bed
and covering as he bivouacs at night.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, ij

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

The third great source in the Southern Hemisphere of fine wools
of commerce is the colony of the Cape of Good Hope. The statis-
tics, as furnished by Mr. Coates, the Commissioner of the colony, are
as follows :

Number of wooled sheep in 1875 10,064,289

Other sheep 944,050

Angora goats 972,733

Export of wool in 1874 43,000,000 pounds.

From H. Schwartze & Co.'s report, January 18, 1877, the following
statistics in relation to the Cape of Good Hope are obtained :

Imports. 1876. 1875. 1876. 1875.

England . bales, 169,908 174,598 lbs., 42,054,712 44,170,950

Continent . 1,033 997

America . 7,529 14,001

Total . . 178,470 189,596 50,600,000

The imports into England are chiefly washed. They estimate the
number of sheep at 16,000,000.

CHILI.

No facts as to the wool-production of Chili could be obtained at
the Exhibition. Statistical reports give its exports of wool for 1872
as 5,773,821 pounds, for 1873 as 4,102,078 pounds, and estimate the
whole clip of the country at 3,000,000 kil., or 6,600,000 pounds.

URAGUAY.

An official report of the exports of Montevideo (Uraguay) makes
the whole

Exports of wool 51,953,8541155.

Imports from the Argentine Republic to be deducted . 7,188,425

44,768,829

Another statement gives the export as 57,042 bales; which, at 900
pounds per bale, the usual size for that country, would be equal to
51,637,800 pounds, from which are to be deducted 7,188,425 pounds
imported from the Argentine Republic.

PERU AND BOLIVIA.

There are no sufficient data in relation to these countries. The
best estimates give the amount of 6,000,000 pounds for both.

lOl

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1 8 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

GERMANY AND AUSTRIA.

The exhibits of wool from Germany and Austria were h'mited to that
variety of the Merino fleece commonly known as Silesian, but more
properly called Electoral, from the Elector of Saxony, the country
in which this wool was first produced. Some beautiful specimens of
the Electoral fleeces were exhibited from Germany and Hungary, the
latter grown by Hungarian nobles. They illustrated all the charac-
teristic features of the " noble" wool, as it is sometimes called in
Germany. The fibres of these wools, according to Mall, measure
from 1.4 to 1.8 of a centime of a millimetre in diameter; a centime
of a millimetre being equal to ^^Vir of an inch. Nathusius-Konigs-
born, in Das Wool/mar das Schaf, makes the average measure of 10
hairs 1.79 centimes, 141 8 to an inch. Among these hairs one hair
measured i centime, equal to 2540 to an inch. According to the
same author, 18 hairs of a very high-blood ewe average 1.53 centimes,
or 1661 to an inch. The finest single hair measured 1.17 centimes,
equal to 2164 to an inch. The finest Silesian ram averaged 1.54 cen-
times. Dr. George May, in Das Schaf, Breslau, 1868, in a tabje of
measurements of 55 different kinds of wool, gives the finest, that of
a Silesian super-elector, the very highest Electoral wool, as averaging
0.13 millimetres, equal to 1954 hairs to an inch. The length of these
wools rarely surpasses 4 centimetres, and the weight of the average
of many flocks' fleeces is scarcely over i ^ pounds. They are used
at present only for the fabrication of the most precious of woolen
goods, imitation Cashmere shawls, extra fine broadcloths, etc. The
thick felts, now made in this country for the hammers on the keys of
pianos, are made solely of this wool imported from Silesia. It is
admitted that this branch of wool-production is everywhere dimin-
ishing. Saxony, the cradle of the race, has scarcely any of the
Electoral sheep. Silesia still possesses a considerable number, while
others are found in Moravia, Hungary, Prussia, and Poland, which
produce all the superfine wools used in Europe. The whole pro-
duction of the superfine wools of these countries in 1866 is stated
by a competent authority as follows :

Hungary . . . 560,600 kil.

Bohemia iio,ooD

Moravia 55»^^*00

Silesia 85,000

Total 810,000

This small production is due to the small weight of the fleeces, the
great care which the animals require, prices disproportionate to the

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP 2X, \g

cost of production, and the loss of that distinction which formerly
encouraged the growers of the noble wool. Mr. Bochner, of Aus-
tria, one of the Judges of this group, is authority for the statement
that Count Hunyady, of Hungary, one of the exhibitors of the
Electoral fleeces at the Exhibition, produces 12,000 pounds annually
of these wools, which he sells at 90 cents, principally in France, for
the manufacture of imitation Cashmere shawls ; but at these prices
there is no profit in the culture. The few growers of this wool in
Hungary, who are generally noblemen, continue the production only
from motives of pride. Most of the wealthy proprietors, who for-
merly made a specialty of the production, have abandoned it or
allowed their flocks to run down.

In no portion of the world have so much science and intelligence
been directed to the Merino sheep-husbandry as in the German states.
Saxony was the first to acquire the Spanish Merinos in any consider-
able number, first receiving them in 1765. In 1774, the pure-blooded
progeny of the Spanish importations amounted to 325 head. As the
culture of this race extended, there grew with it a desire to increase
the characteristic property of the fleeces or the fineness of the fibre.
This passion, as it became, for the utmost possible fineness of fibre,
irrespective of all other considerations, led insensibly to the methods
of breeding which produced a race possessing this attribute in the
highest degree, but with a corresponding delicacy of constitution and
lightness of fleece. This race, known in this country as the Saxon
and in Germany as the Electoral, or Escurial, both names being used
indifferently, does not appear to have been the inheritance from
any special Spanish Cabanas, but a production of art. The com-
mercial demand produced by the reputation of their wools led the
German growers to increase the size of their animals and fleeces.
Another race was developed by the side of the one above described,
the ideal of which was a robust body producing the largest possible
quantity of wool of the utmost fineness consistent with the increased
production. This race was called the Negretti, from Count Negretti,
the proprietor of one of the most celebrated original Cabafias in Spain.
It was also sometimes called the Infantado race, from the Duke of
Infantado, another Spanish proprietor; both terms, as in the case of
the term Electoral and Escurial, indicating the character of the race
and not its special Spanish descent, as it is often erroneously held.
The descriptive terms Negretti and Infantado were found at the Exhi-
bition applied to wools of the same general character. While Silesia is
still in possession of the largest number of the superfine Electoral
sheep to be found in the whole world, Saxony, Pomerania, I\Iecklen-

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20 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

burg, and Eastern and Western Prussia in time renounced the Elec-
lorals and replaced them by the Negrettis. Thirty or forty years ago
Germany attained the utmost production that her land would permit.
In 1850, according to personal statements made to the writer by Pro-
fessor Grothe, the number of sheep in all the German states exceeded
50,000,000; at the present time they do not exceed 25,000,000. Mr.
Dodge places the number at 29,000,000. It is said that she is even
losing her magnificent Merino breeds; for not only the Electorals,
but the Negrettis, are being replaced by the English long-wooled
races. What effect this will have upon the once famous broadcloth-
manufacture of Germany is an interesting subject of inquiry; while
the question suggests itself, what relation this decline of the German
fine-wool-industry has to the abolition of the former protective duties
on imported wool.

The estimated product of wool in Austria, according to the re-
turns made at the Exhibition, is about 30,000,000 kilogrammes of
66,150,000 pounds. The number of sheep is not given ; but at three
pounds of wool per head the number would be about 22,000,000.
Mr. H. Schwartze and Mr. Dodge give, from returns in 1 871, the
number of sheep as, —

In Austria 5,026,398

Hungary IS»076,997

Total 20,103,395

The distribution of sheep in proportion to the area and population,
in 1 869, was as follows :

Per square Per xooo
Kilometre-area. Persons.

Dep)endencies represented in the Reichsrath . . . 2476 367

Dependencies of the Hungarian Crown . . . 1 639 341

The Austrian Monarchy 2043 564

The largest flocks are found in Hungary. Beautiful superfine
clothing- wool was exhibited by Count Alois Karolyr, from flocks
bred at Stampfen. This flock numbers 80,000 head. The average
length of staple of the fleece is about I ]4 inch ; the average weight
of the shearings, the fleeces being warm- and soap-water-washed, is,
winter lambs excepted, 2% pounds English. The whole clip, 145,000
to 156,000 pounds, is sold abroad, mostly to French manufacturers,
for from 74 to 85 cents per pound.

RUSSIA.

The wools of Russia were well illustrated at the Exhibition by

numerous fleeces and bales, and admirably arranged samples. The

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. 2 1

most interesting were Electoral wools, comparing favorably with the
Silesian and Hungarian specimens, samples of the Donskoi carpet-
wools, and a series of beautiful samples from the estate of the Grand
Duchess Katharine Michailoona, showing the extraordinary length
of fibre obtained from sheep of the Rambouillet race. Sheep-hus-
bandry constitutes one of the most important branches of rural
economy in the Russian Empire. The full statistics obtained from
the Russian Commissioner show that the total number of sheep in
the Empire at the present time is 65,387,000, — Europe 49,493,000,
Asia 15,894,000, — ^a number which gives a proportion of 81 sheep
to each 100 inhabitants. The distribution of sheep according to
the population in the great divisions of Russia is as follows:

The Provinces of Central Asia have per ic» inhabitants

Caucasus

Siberia

Russia in Europe

Poland

Finland

565 sheep.

124 "
90 "
70 "
65 "
49 "

Compared with the other great states of Europe, Russia occupies
the fourth place.

Great Britain has per 100 inhabitants 133 sheep.

France « « « 97 "

Prussia «« « u 93 "

Russia «« " ** 81 "

Austria " " « 47 "

Italy u it u 38 "

The total number is composed of 12,555,000 head of Merinos and
52,832,000 common sheep. The principal domain of the Merinos is
comprised in the Government of New Russia, which forms the south-
eastern portion of the Empire. The Governments of Caucasus, Siberia,
and Central Asia have scarcely any, and Finland no Merinos; Georgia
and Circassia possess mostly sheep of the ancient Colchian race.
Generally considered, the fine-wooled sheep tend to decrease, as the
increased price of wheat causes a large conversion of pastures into
arable land. Both the Electoral and Negretti races are grown. The
small product in wool of the former race, set down at two pounds
for the ewe and three pounds for the wethers, has led to extensive
crossing with the more vigorous race. The most successful crosses,
and those now in most favor, are with Rambouillet rams. The reason
given for this predilection is, that " this wool responds best to the
exigencies of the present wool-production, since the clothing industry
tends to decrease, while that of worsted tissues takes daily more

development."

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22 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

The culture of Merinos in the southern regions of the Empire is
favored by the mildness of climate, the sheep requiring shelter and
fodder only about six weeks. The greater part of the flocks is com-
posed of a great number of head, single flocks reaching to fifty,
seventy-five, a hundred, and even four hundred thousand head. Mr.
Falz Feru, one of the exhibitors of excellent wool of the Govern-
ment of Tanride, in the Crimea, has 230,000 sheep, all of Spanish
blood, occupying 340,000 acres of land. These flocks consist of
Negrettis, which appear to have attained in Russia an unusual hardi-
ness, which favors their culture in immense flocks, requiring but little
of that care so indispensable for the Electorals.

The great masses of the common sheep are found in the countries
of Central Asia, in the Governments of the south coast of Russia in
Europe, in the Caucasus, and in Siberia. They consist of four races,
Tchoundki, or the fat-tailed sheep, belonging to the nomadic people,
the Kalmucks and Kurds. The Valaque, or the Walladean or Zakel
sheep, which also abound in Hungary and Moldavia, of a large size,
with coarse, lustrous wool. They are found in the Caucasus, or
region of the Don, and probably furnish the wool known as Donskoi.
The Tsijai, commonly spelt Zijah, meaning Gipsey, or mongrel, with
an exterior resembling Merinos, but with longer wool. The Russian
race, of a small size with coarse wool, and a sub-race, Retchelof, found
at the south of the Government of Poltava, which furnishes the black
and white fleeces commonly called Astrakan.

The production of the Merino wool of Russia in the grease is esti-
mated at 1,569,000 poods, equal to 56,484,000 pounds; of common
wool at 9,245,000 poods, equal to 332,820,000 pounds, or 6yV pounds
to a sheep, the total having an estimated value of 46,357,000 roubles,
or 32,449,000 dollars. The exports of wool are of a value of 13,999,534
roubles, supposed to be about 30,000,000 washed, equal to 50,000,000
pounds unwashed. There is a vast domestic consumption of common
wools in the household for clothing, for carpets or mats, and for mat-
tresses, while the sheepskins are largely used for clothing.

The enormous production of common wools, most of which, such

as those from the broad-tailed and Valaque races, are admirably

adapted for the carpet-manufacture, shows that this country will be

one of the most important sources for the supply of the raw material

for this industry.

FRANCE.

The wools of France had no representation at the Exhibition, except

in fabrics and in the products of other countries which have been so

largely influenced by an infusion of the blood of the French Merino.

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GENERAL REFORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. 23

This influence makes it necessary to dwell at some length upon the
French wool-industry, since it is one of the lessons of the Exhibition.

The sheep-husbandry of France is unquestionably declining, at
least in numbers. President Thiers said in 1870, "Our ovine popu-
lation has gone down from 40,000,000 to 30,000,000." It is stated
on the authority of the Inspector-General of Agriculture, that the
number of sheep in France had been reduced from 30,386,000 in
1866, to 24,707,496 in 1876, a loss of 5,678,787 in six years. Presi-
dent Thiers attributes this decline to the absence of protective duties
on wool, others to the abuse of an absurd law which allows the muni-
cipal councils to prescribe the number of head per hectare which
each farmer is permitted to keep. The number of Merinos, or their
grades producing fine wool, is estimated by M. Sanson at 9,000,000.
The other flocks, consisting of indigenous sheep producing coarse
wools, and some English mutton-sheep, have no special characteristics
worthy of notice.

The wool-industry of France is remarkable for the influence it has
had upon the combing-wool manufacture of the world, and conse-
quently upon the sheep-husbandry of all the nations which supply
it. Louis XVI. obtained from the King of Spain 200 rams and ewes
of the pure race of Leon and Segovia, exactly a century ago, viz.,
1776. In 1786 he obtained 367 more, which were the foundation of
the famous Rambouillet flock. In 1799 France received, through
the treaty of BasleT, 5500 animals from the finest flocks of Castile.
Sixty sheep-folds were established by Napoleon as accessories to
that of Rambouillet, where proprietors could obtain the service of
Merino rams free of charge. The directors of the national sheep-
folds pursued in breeding precisely the opposite course to that
adopted with the same original race in Saxony and with the Tropeau
dt Naz in France. They aimed to increase the size of the frame and
the weight of the fleece. With this increased size and weight there
was developed a corresponding length of fibre, and a Merino comb-
ing-wool was for the first time created. The French manufacturers
were the first to avail themselves of this new property of wool which
their own territory supplied. National pride stimulated them to
create new fabrics from the new material supplied from domestic
sources. They invented Mousselines de laine Merinos, cashmeres,
cfiallis, bareges, and more recently worsted coatings, in a word, all
the woolen stuffs of the nineteenth century which distinguish them-
selves in their physiognomy from the tissues of the preceding cen-
turies. The English and other manufacturing nations in due course
followed the French example. Wool, instead of furnishing the ma-

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24 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

terial for clothing for one sex, as formerly, supplied it for both. The
Southern Hemisphere responded to this new and increased demand
for Merino wool, and the fine sheep-husbandry of the world was
modified to produce the combing-wools required for the new fabrics.
To France must be accorded the honor of creating the most charac-
teristic feature of the sheep-husbandry and wool-manufacture of the
present century.

The scientific breeders of France, not contenting themselves with
producing animals surpassing all others of their race in size and
weight of fleece and length of staple, have more recently aimed to
develop, together with the special qualities of the Merino fibre, the
meat-producing qualities and precocity of development, which for-
merly were regarded as the exclusive aptitudes of the English races.
They have succeeded in transforming the Merino into the most
perfect mutton-sheep, having the same precocity and giving as much
meat as the South Downs, reputed to be the best producers of flesh,
while, at the same time, the total weight of the fleece is increased
without augmenting the diameter of the fibre. In a word, the Merino,
while becoming a mutton-sheep, preserves all its wool-bearing quali-
ties. This method of development, requiring of course abundant
food, should be suggestive to the occupants of the valuable lands in
this country contiguous to city markets, where the merely pastoral
sheep-husbandry has declined.

We must not pass by another product of Frencli sheep-husbandry,
perhaps the most instructive, in a scientific point of view, of any in
the Exhibition, as illustrating the wonderful results which skillful
breeding may accomplish by happily improving the accidents of
nature. The product referred to is the famous Mauchamp wool,
admirable specimens of which, both in staple and yarn, were exhib-
ited by Mr. George W. Bond, who had personally visited the creator
of this race in France, from whom he obtained his specimens. The
characteristics of this wool are that to a fineness equal to that of
Merino, and a length of staple which surpasses it, is added a lustre
absolutely comparable to that of silk ; a lustre so marked that, in a
challis made with a silk warp and weft of Mauchamp wool, the stuff,
which contained only one-eighth of silk and seven-eighths of wool,
was as brilliant as if made entirely of silk.

The history of the creation of this race is so instructive that it
maybe briefly stated. In 1828 there was accidentally produced on
the farm Mauchamp, in France, cultivated by M. Graux, a ram from
a flock of Merinos, having a head of unusual size and a tail of great
length, and also a wool remarkable for its softness, and, above all,

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX,

its lustre. M. Graux separated the animal from the flock and used
it for reproduction, obtaining some animals similar to the sire and
others to the dam. Taking afterwards the animals similar to the
sire and crossing them among themselves or with the sire, which
served for the type, he succeeded, little by little, in forming a small
flock whose wool was perfectly silky. He afterwards succeeded in
modifying the forms and the size of the animals, originally quite
small, and attained a flock of six hundred head, all furnishing the
silky wool. The flock was prosperous at the time of the breaking
out of the Franco-Prussian war. Of its history since that period we
have no knowledge.

ENGLAND.

The English wools were illustrated at the Exhibition by the beau-
tiful collections of the wools of commerce of Messrs. Bowes, of
Liverpool, and Bond, of Boston ; and, at a later period, an admirable
series of fleeces forwarded from Bradford, through the influence of
one of our colleagues, Mr. Mitchell. The names and prices of these
wools are given below :

Half-bred wether

. 1 5 >^ pence.

North Hampton hogget

16)^ pence

" hogget

. i6>i -

Kent wether

16K

Somerset wether

. 16^ "

Northumberland hogget

. ivA

(

Lincoln "

. 16

Gloucester hogget

North Hampton wether

. I5>^ "

wether .

Yorkshire

. 16^ "

Somerset "

. 16

Half-bred hogget

. i^% «

Irish hogget . ,

South Down ewe

.16 "

Devon (lustre) wether

17)4

(

Leicester wether

. 16

Hereford " .

leyi

(

Shropshire hogget .

. I6>4 «

Yorkshire hogget

19 •

** **

. i8>^ "

Lincoln «*

18 •

The characteristics of the fibre of all the many English races were
well displayed in these collections. It is necessary to say that
England produces no Merino sheep, and that all are grown prima-
rily for mutton, and secondarily for the wools, the latter being gen-
erally used for combing purposes, and entering into the manufacture
of a large class of worsted goods. The wools of English races, —
the Leicesters and Lincolns and Cotswolds, — for length, strength,
and lustre, present the best type of combing-wool proper, or that
used exclusively for combing-wool purposes. The lands being
stocked with sheep to their utmost capacity, the numbers of sheep
vary but little from year to year, so that returns of a few years back
will pretty fairly represent the present production. The Government

returns of 1868 show the whole number in England, Wales, Scotland,

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26 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

and Ireland to be 34,532,000, which are classified by Mr. Graham as
follows, according to the leading typical races:

Leicesters and their allies 12,933,000

Downs 6,130,000

Cheviots 4,368,000

Black-faced 5,101,000

Welsh 2,000,000

Irish 4,000,000

34,532,000

e production

of these races is thus estimated :

Leicesters,

12,933,000 fleeces at 7 pounds each

90,531,000

Downs,

6,130,000 "4 "

24,520,000

Cheviots,

4,368.000 "3 " .

13,104,000

Black-faced,

5,100,000 " 2j{ "

14,027,750

Welsh and Irish

6,000,000 " averaging 2 ix>unds

12,000,000

34,532,000 Total number of lbs. washed 154,182,750

At an average price of 10 pence per pound, the value of the wool-
product is ;£'6,425,ooo. Taking the average age of these sheep at three
years, about one-third, or 11,510,000, are killed for mutton annually;
averaging the carcass at 65 pounds and the price per pound 8 pence,
there are produced annually 748,150,000 pounds of mutton, realizing
j^2S,ooo,ooo per year. This, added to the annual value of wool,
j^6,425,ooo, makes the product of British sheep ;£'3 1,425,000, or $159,-
125,000. To this is to be added the value of the manure, which can
only be estimated by the fact that it is an indispensable necessity for
British husbandry. This estimate is greatly increased when we add
the value of wool from slaughtered sheep, say 36,000,000 pounds,
and estimate the value of the wool at 15 pence instead of 10 pence,
which is nearer the correct figure at the present time.

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

The long wools of English blood exhibited by Canada attracted
the high commendation of the Judges; an exhibit from Hamilton
showing Leicester, Cotswold, and South Down wools, and that of
crosses of Leicester and Merino, Leicester and South Down, Cots-
wold and Leicester, Lincoln and Cotswold, justified the popularity of
these wools with the worsted-manufacturers of the United States.
So prevalent is the culture of the long combing-wools in Canada, and
so large their consumption in the United States, where they find their
principal market, that the term Canada Wools is in general use to
designate the wools of the English type.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. 27

We are indebted to the Minister of Agriculture of the Dominion
of Canada for the latest official returns, made in 1871, which furnish
the following statistics as to sheep and wool production :

Provinces. Number of Sheep. Pounds of Wool.

Ontario 1,514,914 6,411,305

Quebec 1,007,800 2,763,304

New Brunswick 234,418 796,168

Nova Scotia 39^,377 1,132,703

3,155,509 11,103,480

OTHER EUROPEAN COUNTRIES.

No exhibits of wool were made by Italy, which, according to
Messrs. H. Schwartze & Co., has 6,977,104, and according to Mr.
Dodge, 1 1,000,000 sheep. Portugal, which has about 3,000,000 sheep,
made some excellent exhibits, and is declared by her Commissioners
to be pursuing sheep-husbandry with a freshly-awakened zeal and
energy. Spain, which has, according to both the authorities above
mentioned, about 22,000,000 sheep, made a considerable number of
exhibits of wool. But the observer could not fail to be struck with
the fact that the Merino wools exhibited by the country which was
the cradle of the Merino r^ce, showed no evidence of their pristine
excellence.

UNITED STATES.

It is a subject of great regret that the wools of the United States
were so inadequately represented at the Exhibition. This was in
some measure accounted for by the circumstance that the usual
shearing had not taken place at the time when, by the rules of the
Exhibition, the entry of exhibits was closed. At the request of the
Judges of this group, an extension of time was granted to proposed
exhibitors of wool, but with little effect. The few beautiful fleeces,
especially from Ohio, but more than all the high character of Ameri-
can flannels, blankets, and fancy cassimeres, made exclusively of
domestic wool, were sufficient to impress our foreign associates with
the value of our wool-product.

The number of sheep in the United States is set down in the
Census returns of 1870 at 28,777,951, and the quantity of wool pro-
duced at 100,102,387 pounds. It is believed that these returns are
incomplete, as they only give an approximation of the number of
sheep actually on farms at the dates of the returns, and were imper-
fect in respect to Texas and the Territories, while the amount of wool
is also incomplete, as the returns of fleeces of sheep slaughtered in
cities are not given.

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28 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

The Statistician of the Agricultural Department, Mr. Dodge,
whom the writer has consulted, and who has made a special study of
the subject, estimates the number of the sheep in the United States,
in 1876, at not less than 36,000,000, producing, with the additional
fleeces of those slaughtered within the past year, 155,000,000 pounds.
The sheep of the United States consist, 1st, of what are called the
native sheep, which are descendants of the unimproved coarse-wooled
English sheep, first introduced. It is not known to what particular
type of the English races they originally belonged, although it is
known from tradition that certain of the common sheep were held in
particular esteem for producing long worsted wools, which were hand-
combed and spun in the families of New England for making yarns
for worsted stockings. These sheep furnished the stock upon which
the Merinos were engrafted. 2d. Descendants from the more recent
English races, principally brought immediately from Canada. 3d.
The Mexican sheep found in Texas, New Mexico, Colorado, and
California, a coarse and sparsely-wooled sheep of Spanish descent,
undoubtedly the race known as Charro. 4th. The Merino sheep and
other grades. The latter constitute the principal and characteristic
sheep of the United States. Six Merinos were introduced to the
United States by different persons between 1793 and 1802. In the
last-named year Mr. Livingston, the American Minister in France,
sent home two pairs of Merinos obtained from the French Govern-
ment flock. Later, in 1802, Colonel Humphreys, the American Min-
ister in Spain, on his return from his embassy, shipped a flock to the
United States, of which twenty-one rams and seventy ewes reached his
farm in Connecticut. It is not known whether the Merinos imported
prior to these left any descendants, although it is known that the Me-
rinos proceeding from the import of Mr. Livingston sold for enor-
mous prices. The next, and by far the most important acquisition, was
secured in 1809-10, through the energy and fortunate position of Mr.
William Jarvis, American Consul at Lisbon, in Portugal. In conse-
quence of the invasion of Spain by the French, and the subsequent
confiscation and sale by the Junta from celebrated flocks of Merino
sheep, Mr. Jarvis was enabled to purchase a large number, — about
3500, — which he sent to this country and sold, except a few hundred,
which he placed on his own farm in Wethersfield, Vermont, where
they or their descendants have remained ever since. Four of these
sheep were presented to Mr. Jefferson, at Monticello, who thus
responded : " The four Merinos are now safe with me here, and good
preparations are made for their increase the ensuing year. Pursuing
the spirit of the liberal donor, I consider them deposited with me for

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. 29

the general good ; and divesting myself of all views of gain, I pro-
pose to devote them to the diffusion of the race throughout our State,
as far as their increase will permit. I shall send a pair to every county
of the State, in rotation, until the whole are possessed of them.'* In
1810 and 1811 there was an additional importation of about 2500
Merinos, all from the prime flocks of Spain, part of which went to
New York and part to Boston. The Merinos arrived at a propitious
time for their favorable reception. It was a period when our foreign
trade was suspended by the embargo, and our people were driven to
supply themselves with fabrics from their own resources. They hailed
with eagerness the opportunity of supplying and improving the raw
material for the wool-manufacture in which they had embarked. The
Spanish races were eagerly sought to improve the common sheep,
and flocks of full blood and grades were established in all parts of
the country. Although the mania for Merino-growing, which rose
so high during the war of 181 2 that from 1000 to 1500 dollars was
not unfrequently paid for Merino bucks, was checked by the peace
of 181 5, and the destruction of our wool-manufacture by the flood
of importations, while many of the flocks were merged in the com-
mon coarse sheep of the country, others were kept pure and separate
and the race was firmly established on our soil.

In 1824 a new impulse was given to our wool-manufacture through
legislative influences. Factories on a large scale were established for
making broadcloths. The fashion of the times required cloths of
great firmness, such as were made in England and France from the
wools of German Electoral sheep-husbandry, which was then at the
height of its prosperity. The necessities of the broadcloth-manufac-
ture required a finer wool than was supplied by Spanish Merinos,
as they then were commonly called. Saxon, or Electoral Merinos, were
imported in large numbers. The record is preserved of 2963 which
were imported in four years. The first aim of the wool-growers
thence for a period of fifteen years was to engraft upon their flocks
the Saxon blood, though, fortunately, a few never entirely abandoned
the old Merinos.

Through the effect of general causes, which insensibly led to the
decline of superfine sheep-husbandry in all the Merino wool producing
countries of the world, there commenced in the United States about
1835 a reaction in favor of the neglected old-fashioned Merinos.
Intelligent growers abandoned improvement through the Saxon
stock, and sought for stock animals those of undoubted descent
from the early Spanish importations. From this period the improve-
ment of the American Merinos, as they began to be designated,
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30 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

especially in weight of fleeces, was rapid. To give an illustration by
no means exceptional, in 1835 the choicest flocks yielded 4^ pounds
of wool per head. In 1844, flocks of the same proportion yielded
5 pounds 13 ounces of washed wool per head. In 1863, a flock of
157 two-year-old and yearling ewes yielded 7 pounds 2 ounces of
fairly washed wool per head. In that year, at the International
Exposition of Hamburg, the first prizes for the best heavy-wooled
sheep — rams and ewes of 1761 competing animals — were awarded to
Mr. Campbell, of Vermont, who exhibited American Merinos. In
1875, a flock of 33 ewes in Michigan produced 318 pounds of washed
wool. At the American Wool-Growers' Association, in 1875, the
premiums were awarded with the following report:

Weight of Sheep. Weight of Fleece.

Age of Fleece

1st premium ram

i8o>^ lbs. 29 lbs.

II mo. 21 days.

2d premium ram

148 " 23 " 13 oz.

I year 4 "

1st premium ewe

108 " 17 " 3 "

II mo. 22 "

Two-year-old ewe

not entered for premium 22 " 8 "

I year 5 "

Two races of our Merinos have acquired special Celebrity: the
Atwood family improved, descended from Colonel Humphreys* im-
portation, and supposed, upon somewhat equivocal authority, to be
of the ancient Spanish stock belonging to the Duke Supantado, and
the Rich family, supposed to inherit Paular blood. All these alleged
descents are believed to be equivocal and uncertain. The Wells and
Dickinson, of Ohio, partially descended from Colonel Humphreys'
sheep, samples of whose excellent wool were shown at the Exhibition,
have had much influence upon the early flocks of the Western States.
The most eminent improver of the American Merino was Mr. Edwin
Hammond, of Vermont, who bred upon the Atwood stock. Of his
work it is enough to say that he effected as marked improvement in
the Merino as was made by Bakewell and Elman respectively upon
the Leicesters and Downs of England.

We find, in this brief review, the names of Livingston, Humphreys,
Jarvis, and Hammond, who are to be specially honored as founders
of American sheep-husbandry. To these should be added that of
Henry S. Randall, of Cortland Village, New York, recently deceased,
at once a practical shepherd and a scholar. His example and his
writings, which have contributed so much to elevate the pursuit of
wool-growing in this country, are among the best .fruits of American
sheep-h usband ry .

The special application of American wools will be considered under
the head of fabrics. We will advert to one general attribute which is
universally conceded to them, viz., their soundness and strength of

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' GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. 31

fibre. This, and perhaps the great development of fleece and weight,
are to be attributed less to skill and the character of our soil and
climate than to the prevailing system of keeping and the careful and
thrifty habits of the people. The flocks, being generally small, are
under the. personal care of the proprietors. They are housed in
winter and regularly and abundantly fed, and consequently produce
a healthy and sound fibre. Thus our wools owe their best-distin-
guishing attribute indirectly to social or moral causes. It would be
seen that our Merino wools, as a rule, belong to the class of inter-
mediary wools produced in Europe by the Negretti race, now
generally prevalent in most Merino wool-producing countries and
increasing in others. Many of our manufacturers complain of the
falling off* of our fine wool production. The American wool-grower
has seen little at the Exhibition to induce him to change his pres-
ent system. He has found that the cloth-industry of the world
is adapting itself to the intermediary wools such as he produces.
Even fashion yields to economical necessities. The superfine wool-
production is unnatural, artificial, and unprofitable. From the nature
of things there can be no reasonable expectation of seeing it revived in
this country. So small is the consumption of the superfine wools that
what might be imported from abroad would hardly compete with
American wools; and if it were possible to distinguish them so that
there should be no possibility of fraud or evasion, they might without
injury to the wool- grower be placed on the same scale of duties as
carpet-wools, neither being advantageously produced here.

The reader would naturally look for particulars as to the distribution
of sheep in the several States of our territory, with observations as to
the characteristics of the wool in the different States as influenced by
soil and climate. These particulars the writer hoped to supply, and
with this view addressed letters of inquiry to each of the Commis-
sioners from the wool-growing States. The information obtained
was so meagre that he has been compelled to abandon his purpose.
The wools of many of our States have characteristic qualities readily
recognized by inspection or touch ; but the most skilled expert
would be unable to define, in language intelligible to the unskilled,
differences which to him are perfectly palpable.

The deficiency as to the distribution of sheep in the several States,
is approximately supplied by a statement which accompanied an
admirable exhibit of samples of wools from most of the States and
Territories of the Union, made by Messrs. Fiss, Banes, & Erben, of
Philadelphia. This exhibit, made at the special request of the Super-
intendent of the Agricultural Department of the Exhibition, was

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INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

received too late to obtain the official award it deserved. The sam-
ples were well arranged and exceedingly instructive, especially as
supplemented by the estimates of the number of sheep, which these
gentlemen were so capable of giving with near approach to accuracy.
This estimate is as follows :

Number of Sheep.

California .... 6,750,000

New York .... 1,936,500

Delaware

23,600

Ohio .

4,546,600

Georgia

271,200

Oregon

710,500

Illinois

i.3ii»ooo

Pennsylvania

1,640,500

Indiana

. 1,250,000

Rhode Island

25»3oo

Iowa .

. 1,663,900

Tennessee .

341,700

Kansas

123,900

Texas .

. 1,691,500

Kentucky

683,600

Vermont

490,500

Louisiana

68.800

Virginia

356,400

Maine .

225,900

West Virginia

. 544,500

Maryland

141,200

Wisconsin .

. 1,162,800

Massachusetts

76,300

Michigan

. 3,450,600

Not given, Census of 1870

Missouri

. 1,284,200

Colorado .... 120,928

Nebraska

48,900

Utah 59,672

New Hampshire

242,200

Wyoming .... 6,409

New Jersey .

125,800

Montana

2,024

Connecticut .

. . 83,884

Minnesota

. 133.343

New Mexico .

. 619,438

North Carolina

. 463,435

The following States and Territories were not represented. We
place against them the number of sheep in 1870, since which time
some of them have immensely increased their flocks :

South Carolina . . . 124,594

Washington Territory . . 44,063

Mississippi .... 232,732

Florida 26,599

' There are some general considerations relating to American sheep-
husbandry not yet referred to which should not be omitted. Sheep-
husbandry in the older States is apparently declining, or is rather in
that condition of suspense which precedes a transition to another form.
In most of the New England States the number of sheep has greatly
diminished, as in Connecticut, New Hampshire, Rhode Island, and
Massachusetts. Vermont, however, still occupies an important position
as a sheep-producing State, and in one respect is the first. The dis-
tinctive character of the sheep-husbandry of Vermont is the breeding
of Merino sheep, and especially of rams, for exportation to other
States and abroad. The influence of Jarvis and Hammond, and of
the choice flocks of the purest Spanish races, introduced by the
former, is felt throughout the State. The objection has been made
to the Vermont Merinos that with the object of obtaining heavy fleeces
there has been an undue development of yolk. The best breeders.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. 33

prominent among whom is Mr. George Campbell, of Westminster, are
now working in a different direction. They are breeding so as to
destroy the wrinkles formerly so popular as indicating a pure blood,
but really useless, unsightly and inconvenient in shearing, to diminish
the quantity of the yolk, and to make a hardy animal, fitted especi-
ally for regenerating the flocks kept in a state of exposure in Colorado
and California. Vermont sheep at the Exhibition having attracted
the favorable attention of the Commissioners from Australia, the
wool-growers of the State subscribed for the purchase of a model
ram and ewe, which they have courteously presented to the Agri-
cultural Society of New South Wales.

The most remarkable event in the recent history of our wool-
industry, is the rapid development of the pastoral sheep-husbandry in
California and the trans-Missouri States. While in the oldest States
wool-growing has been pursued with small flocks, as an adjunct to
other husbandry, in these States it has been organized on a grand
scale. It is conducted not by farmers, but by exclusive wool-growers,
who are at the same time capitalists. There are single proprietors
who have flocks exceeding a hundred thousand head in number. In
1868 the Pacific product was 15,000,000 pounds; in 1870, 23,000,000.
In 1875 the product of California exceeded 50,000,000. The product
for 1876 is stated as follows by E. Grisar & Co. :

Spring wool, 94,102 bales, weighing
Spring wool shipped direct from the interior

Total spring production
Fall wool received, 73,952 bales, weighing
Fall wool shipped direct from the interior

Total fleece wool ....
Pulled wool shipped direct from San Francisco

28,230,000 pounds.
1,834,919 "

30,064,919

24,031,378

204,073

54.300,37®
2,250,000

Total wool production of California in 1876 . 56,550,370 "

The wool is rapidly improving and is in high demand. The great
ranges of pasturage in the Pacific and trans-Missouri States, and the
very little winter housing and feeding of forage required, give promise
of a development of sheep-husbandry in those territories comparable
to that of the Southern Hemisphere.

Conditions not less favorable, which are beginning to attract the
attention of experienced wool-growers, exist in the vast area and
favorable climate of Texas.

No reference has yet been made to a branch of our sheep-hus-
bandry which promises to take the most prominent place in the older
States, that of the long-wooled or mutton races, or their crosses with

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34 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

Merinos. The culture of these sheep, which are of recent intro-
duction, dating back hardly more than twenty years, has been largely
influenced by the contiguity of Canada and the development of our
worsted industry within the period mentioned. It has been peculiarly
successful on the southern shores of Lake Erie, and in the States
adjoining Canada. From returns furnished by the State Commission-
ers, it appears that of about 11,000 sheep in Wisconsin, about one-
quarter are of the long-wooled races. Of 8,000,000 pounds produced
in Michigan in 1875, about one-quarter is of the same race. In both
States the culture of this wool is declared to be on the increase.

In Oregon, of 2,000,000 pounds produced in 1875, the quantity of
long combing-wools was in the same proportion. The exhibits from
this State show remarkable success in breeding, actually improving
upon the English wools, while the climate shows peculiar adapta-
tion to this product. Kentucky, favored by its blue-grass pastures,
is also distinguished for the excellence and abundance of its long
combing-wools. It has been proved by the best test, that of actual
trial, contrary to the belief formerly prevailing, that our soil and
climate are well adapted to these heavy sheep. The high prices of
the wools, the increasing demand for good mutton, and the benefits
to the soil, cannot fail to induce the farmers of the older sections of
the country to follow the example of England. A new feature in our
foreign commerce is the recent invention which permits the trans-
portation to great distances of fresh meats, hung on shipboard in
apartments suitably prepared, and the favor which American beef and
mutton thus introduced have met in England presents unexpected
inducements for mutton-growing in our Atlantic States.

Other English races not yet introduced, especially the Cheviot*
should be tried. It is believed that this race is specially fitted for the
high plateaus of North Carolina, where they would find a climate
approximating that of their native locality. The mere acclimation
and continuance of the English types is not sufficient. Attempts
should be made to create new races of this class of sheep exactly
adapted to our climate, manufactures, and conditions of agriculture.
No wider field for zootechnic achievements is offered than in this
direction.

This sketch would be incomplete without some reference to the
literature of American sheep-husbandry. The most eminent and
influential worker upon this subject is Dr. Henry S. Randall, lately
deceased, who by his writings and example has done more than any
other to elevate what was once a neglected and accidental pursuit of
the farmer to a cherished and dignified employment. His Practical

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. 35

Shepherd has been pronounced the best book ever published on any
branch of agriculture. Other eminent writers on this subject are
Mr. George Geddes, whose contributions have appeared in the New
York Weekly Tribune; Mr. A. M. Garland, of Illinois, the editor of
the sheep department of the Live Stock Journal, — ^at present the
fullest and most trustworthy source of information available to
American wool-growers ; and Messrs. Glenn & Co., of Pennsylvania,
contributors to the Practical Fanner.

T/te Bulletin of the Natiofial Association of Wool Manufacturers, in
six volumes, has notices of much of the foreign literature bearing
upon the subject, with discussions of the economical questions con-
nected with American wool-industry. It contains, besides, essays by
Mr. George William Bond. Several of the most recent reports of State
boards of agriculture contain essays of much value, particularly those
of the States of Maine, Vermont, and Georgia. The reports of the
National Department occupy the first position as sources of knowl-
edge on the subject of sheep-husbandry.

RfeSUMfe OF WOOL-PRODUCTION.

Messrs. Helmuth, Schwartze, & Co., of London, in their annual
report dated January 18, 1877, say as follows:

" An attempt is made in the following to give a survey of the wool-
trade in its largest proportions. Usually the view is confined to one
market or to one country, or to colonial- or home-grown wools, as
the case may be. Here, however, the circle is expanded to include
all wools and all countries, as far as information reaches or even as
data exist upon which reasonable guesses may be based. To arrive
at such a view, the most obvious way would have been an inquiry
into the total quantity of wool produced in the world. But, though
we give an estimate of the number of sheep in existence, the figures
are in several points too uncertain to allow of any conclusions being
built upon them. It is nevertheless possible to obtain a view of the
trade in its entirety in another way, viz., by ascertaining not the pro-
duction of wool which takes place all over the globe, but the quantity
worked up by the whole wool-industry, which, so far from being
distributed over the whole earth, is in a developed form practically
confined to Europe and North America. This has accordingly been
done. Europe and North America are the manufacturers for the
whole world; and, if the extent of their work can be gauged, an idea
is really given of the entire trade. The subject resolves itself into
an inquiry, first, of the home-production of these two continents, and

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«875.

1876.

830

798

619

419

36 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

then of their imports, the two together giving the measure of the
world. Expressed in millions of pounds' weight we find, —

The home-production of Europe and North America .
The imports into North America ....

1449 1217

1449 million pounds then represent the whole supply ; and of this
total about 57 per cent, were of European and North American home-
growth, and about 43 per cent, imported. Apportioning this huge
quantity, we find that no less than 351 million pounds, or very nearly
a quarter of the whole, fall to the share of the British industry alone ;
the rest of Europe takes 844 million pounds, or 58 per cent.; North
America, 254 million pounds, or 17^ per cent. In 1866, the total
consumption of raw wool was 12 17 million against 1449 million
pounds in 1875, and the average annual increase was consequently
about 2 per cent. Of this about I per cent, was directly owing to
the increase of population, which in Europe and North America rose
from 321 to 347 millions in the stated period, the remaining i per
cent, being due to the employment of wool for new purposes, and to
the spread of comfort and wealth generally. Calculated per head of
population, the consumptioii of raw wool, in 1875, was 4^^ pounds,
or, taking the wool in its cleaned state, 2-^ pounds.

" It need not be said that all these figures pretend to no accuracy,
but are open to correction ; all they lay claim to is this, that, wherever
possible, they are based upon the latest authentic returns, and that
where such basis was wanting, the estimates have been made with care
and with a full consideration of all points involved."

ESTIMATE OF THE NUMBER OF SHEEP IN THE WORLD.

Year of

Return. No. of Sheep.

United Kingdom 1876 32,252,579

Russia 1870 48,132,000

Sweden 1873 1.695,434

Norway 1865 i,705»394

Denmark 187 1 1,842,481

Iceland 800,000

Germany 1873 24,999,406

Austria 187 1 20,103,395

Switzerland 1866 447 ,001

Holland 1873 90'»5'5

Belgium 1866 586,097

France 1872 24,589,647

Italy 1874 6,977,104

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, 37

Year of

Return. No. of Sheep.

Spain 1865 22,054,967

Portugal 1870 2,706,777

Total Europe (excluding Turkey and Greece), about . . 190,000,000

Australasia 1875 62,000,000

Cape Estimate 16,000,000

Mexico " 16,000,000

River Plate '* 60,000,000

North America " 50,000,000

Remainder of America " 6,000,000

Total 384,000,000

Turkey, North Africa, Persia, etc., say ... . 65,000,000

India and China, "say 35,000,000

Grand Total 484,000,000

CONSUMPTION OF WOOL.

It will be observed that in the following tables the production
and consumption of the United States are included in that of North
America. In order to bring our own consumption into more distinct
relief, the writer has requested Mr. George W. Bond to estimate the
consumption of v^ooX per capita in the United States, as compared with
that of Great Britain, and has been favored with a reply. Deeming it
unnecessary to confuse the reader with a statement of the complicated
calculations by which Mr. Bond formed his estimate, we give simply
the results. Of domestic wool and that imported, either in the form
of wool or fabrics, the average consumption of the people of Great
Britain is set down at three and two-thirds pounds of clean wool per
person. The consumption of clean wool in the United States is set
down at four and a third pounds per head. Although the tables
which follow may surprise enthusiasts, by showing how gradually the
consumption of the raw material of the wool-manufacture of the
civilized nations increases, it being at the rate of but about 2 per
cent, for each year of this last decade, they show progress and stability
of progress. They show that wool is holding, and likely to hold, its
place among the few great national staples which make up the bulk
of commercial commodities ; and that a great step towards commer-
cial and industrial independence is made by the nation which has
planted a prosperous sheep-husbandry upon her soil.

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INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

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40 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

WOOL FABRICS.

CLASS 235. — Card-Wool Fabrics, — Yarns, Broadcloth, Doe-
SKINS, Fancy Cassimeres, Felted Goods, Hat Bodies.

In considering the different classes of the manufactured products of
wool at the Exhibition, it would be inconvenient, if not impracticable,
to observe the geographical arrangement pursued in discussing the
raw material. The peculiar national distinctions are less marked than
in the raw material, and the products of some countries exhibit
nothing calling for particular remark. It would be interesting to
give the statistics of production of the different countries exhibiting,
but these were not obtainable from any sources at our command.

The fabrics of the class now under consideration, with the excep-
tion of yarns and hat bodies, may be properly designated as " cloths.*'
The most marked impression made by an examination in detail of the
cloths of different countries was the cosmopolitan character of the
cloths of all manufacturing nations. Although there are marked
distinctions in the kinds of cloths, these seem to bear the impress
of the time, or the fashion of the time, rather than of the country of
fabrication.

This is especially true of the great mass of cloths for general con-
sumption, which can scarcely be distinguished except by the degrees
of perfection in their fabrication. It has been remarked that woolen
cloths, by their universal use, have tended to obliterate the outward
social distinctions of classes. It was observable at the Exhibition
that they served to obscure the distinction of nationalities. This
uniformity may be partially due to the supremacy of fashion, made
more universal by modern facilities of communication, but equally to
the identity of modern machinery, and the influence of the raw
material upon manufactures.

In the last and in the early part of the present century, scarcely
any fabrics were known under the designation of " cloths," except
broadcloths, and twilled fabrics similar in face to broadcloths, called
" cassimeres.*' Each piece was uniform in color. Variety of color
and shade was the only element which the manufacturers had at
command to satisfy the taste for change or the caprice of fashion.
The principal distinctions were in the fineness and perfection of finish.

From the descriptions which remain of the methods of weaving
broadcloths in the French convents during the fourteenth century,
this fabric would appear to be now substantially the same made four

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. 41

centuries ago. The only change is in the fineness of the wools used,
and the perfection of the face of the goods, due to better processes
of shearing and pressing. This fabric will doubtless always occupy
the first rank among woolen tissues. In this typical product of the
woolen manufacture, the broadcloths from the West of England still
occupy the eminent position accorded to them in all other Inter-
national Exhibitions. The thickness and solidity of these cloths were
not less conspicuous than their fineness and beautiful face. This was
especially noticeable in the scarlet military cloths. All these cloths
bear the designation of Electoral, signifying the kinc;! of wool of
which they are made ; and, in fact, they are made of the highest-
priced Silesian wool. The prices at which they were marked corre-
sponded with their quality. The contrast of these goods with certain
others made in England for export was remarkable. These fabrics
are made chiefly for home consumption by the wealthy classes. For
the class of consumers who use these goods, the competition among
the manufacturers is in excellence rather than in cheapness. But the
Judges had the proof within their own group that the skill required
to produce these fine cloths is not an exclusive monopoly. One of
our colleagues, Mr. Lang, who commenced the manufacture of broad-
cloths in 1 8 14, exhibited, though not for competition, samples of blue
and black broadcloths, made in 1853, at Vassalboro*, Maine. The
wool was selected Silesian, costing, with duties and charges, about
three dollars per pound. The cloth had one hundred and twenty
picks to the inch. The cloth, in fineness and perfection of finish, was
admitted to surpass even the West of England broadcloths.

The comparatively low position of the United States in the manu-
facture oi fine broadcloths cannot be denied. It was manifested by
the absence of any notable exhibits, except by a single establishment,
the Burlington Mills, of Vermont. Their exhibits showed that our
apparent inferiority in this manufacture was not due to any want of
skill or capacity, but to other causes. This mill produces annually
some ^[300,000 in value of broadcloth, and it is known that another
mill in Massachusetts, which did not exhibit, has shown equal proofs
of its skill in this manufacture. The products of the mill first re-
ferred to would undoubtedly suffer in comparison with the West of
England standards, for the goods, beautiful in face and fineness,
were lacking in weight. But they were intentionally made to con-
form to the prevailing fashion of the higher standard of the German
light weight goods, with which they bore a favorable comparison.
It would be erroneous to make the position of the broadcloth
industry a reproach against the American woolen manufacturer.

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42 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

The same apparent decline, though perhaps not in the same degree,
is witnessed in most other manufacturing nations. Superfine broad-
cloths are now used only by a limited class, and by that class rarely,
except for dress coats, which last for years. The coats are made by
fashionable tailors, who, as a rule, prefer foreign cloths. As the fine
cloths are principally used by the easy classes, the duties upon the
fine foreign cloths are no impediment to their consumption, while the
specific or weight duty is less onerous upon them than upon common
cloths.

The capacity to manufacture the finest broadcloths in this country
was proved, many years ago, by the celebrated Middlesex Mills of
Lowell, Massachusetts, — in age, influence, and continuity of excellence
standing at the very front of our cloth-mills. In ceasing to give promi-
nence to the fine broadcloth manufacture, it has manifested no failure
in skill, but simply an adaptation to the wants of the times.

The diminution in the American manufacture of fine broadcloths
has been attributed to the effect of the tariff of 1846. It has also
been materially influenced by the constantly diminishing domestic
supply of superfine wools, the Saxon wool-culture, as we have seen,
having nearly ceased ; for it is well established that an abundant
domestic supply of raw material is one of the most potent of the
influences which give a special character to the manufactures of a
country. But the principal cause of the decline referred to is the
popular demand for other fabrics, hereafter more fully referred to. In
a word, our manufacturers have ceased, as a rule, to make fine broad-
cloths, because they find ample and more profitable employment for
their looms in the production of the lower cloths which enter into
general consumption. It has been observed that a similar decline, or
more strictly speaking, diminution, of the fine-cloth manufacture is
observed in other countries. Although a few excellent broadcloths
and satins, or doeskins of remarkable beauty, were exhibited by Bel-
gium and Germany, the Judges of large experience in dealing with
woolen fabrics failed to find, in the exhibits of Belgium and especially
of Germany, that competition for excellence in the production of
superfine cloths which they had been led to expect from the former
reputation of Belgian and German manufacturers. In the production
of plain-faced goods of a lower grade, adapted for special uses, — such
as blue and gray uniforms for soldiers, police officers, newsboys, and
watchmen, — there were evidences of much progress, both in fabrica-
tion and cheapness, on the part of American manufacturers. Our
regular soldiers, wearing American fabrics, are declared by our army
authorities to be better clothed than any in the world. The beauty

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. 43

of the uniforms of our volunteer troops, many thousands of whom
were in procession on the Centennial Fourth of July, was specially
noted by the foreign Judges. The production of blue police cloths
has become an extensive branch of our manufacture, and the cloths
are marked for their cheapness, durability of dye, and solidity of
fabric.

The period of 1836 was an epoch in the cloth industry of the world
and of the century. It was the commencement of the change which
has produced a character of the cloth fabrics, for general consumption
throughout the world, which was one of the most conspicuous features
of the Exhibition.

In 1834, M. Bonjean, a prominent wool-manufacturer in Sedan,
France, and an Hive of the Polytechnic School, conceived the idea of
modifying the plain cloths hitherto universally made, by uniting upon
the same stuff different tints or patterns of tissue. This he was able
to effect by the Jacquard loom. It was evident that the variety of
stuffs which could be thus made was as unlimited as fancy. Hence
he styled his woolens fancy cassimeres. These cloths, put on the
market, and displayed at public exhibitions, instantly struck the pop-
ular taste, and were imitated, at first in France, and then in all other
manufacturing nations. Their introduction into this country is an
illustration of the benefits flowing from National Exhibitions. In
1840 an American gentleman, arriving directly from Paris, visited Mr.
Samuel Lawrence, then agent of the Middlesex Mills at Lowell,
Massachusetts. In the words of Mr. Lawrence, " He had an over-
coat woven in diamond figures, of great beauty ; said he saw it at an
Exhibition, at Paris; Bonjean & Son, of Sedan, were the manufac-
turers. He gave me a small bit from the inside of the collar.*' With
this bit as an example of what was to be done, Mr. Lawrence applied
to Mr. George Crompton to adapt machinery for this tissue, already
devised in cotton fabrics; and the result was the invention of the
Crompton loom, upon which fancy cassimeres have since been woven,
not only in this country, but in Sweden, Germany, Austria, and Bel-
gium. From this statement, it would seem that fancy cassimeres were
first made in this country at Lowell. But it should be observed that
the honor of the first introduction is also claimed by the New Eng-
land Mills of Rockville, Connecticut. The new cloths were adapted
to the natural change which had begun to take place in the culture
of wools. They required soundness, length, and strength, rather
than the softness and fineness which had been the essential qualities
of clothing-wools. The more abundant supply of the intermediary
wools has continued to favor the production of the fancy woven

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cloths ; and from their great predominance at the Exhibition, and in
the business suits commonly worn, it would seem that they comprise
from three-quarters to nine-tenths of all the cloths made at the present
day.

In the class of fancy woven cloths, — including not only fancy
cassimeres, but clothes for overcoatings and worsted coatings, — the
manufacturers of Elbeuf and Sedan sustained at the Exhibition their
long-established reputation for novelty of design and perfection of
fabrication ; and Belgium was not far behind. The fine and thin
cassimeres of Belgium, called " Batistes," made for consumption in
tropical countries in the place of cotton and linen fabrics, were con-
spicuous for their beauty. Among the British exhibits, — besides some
fancy cloths exhibited by West of England manufacturers, woven by
a novel process analogous to knitting, — certain solid and substantial
fancy cloths, made in Ireland, of Cheviot wool, with double and
twisted yarns, received special commendation, and are worthy of
imitation here.

The writer may be permitted to speak of the admiration and sur-
prise expressed by the foreign Judges of this group, at the first inspec-
tion of the American fancy cassimeres. The goods of our exhibitors,
it may be remarked, were arranged with good taste, in costly but not
obtrusive cases, which served to enhance their favorable impression.
The Swedish Judge, Mr. Carl Arnberg, a practical wool-manufacturer
of large observation, will pardon the repetition of his precise language
addressed to the writer : "You know that the best fancy cassimeres
in the world have been made at Sedan and Elbeuf in France. If
these goods were placed by the side of the Elbeuf cassimeres, you
could not tell one from the other, and the goods could not be bought
at Elbeuf for the prices marked here." It was conceded by all the
Judges that our fancy cassimeres, in material, fabrication, and design,
had attained the highest standard of this fabric. No single mill or
State could claim the palm ; for the honors were divided between a
mill in Utica, New York, one in Pittsfield, Massachusetts, and three
mills in Rockville, Connecticut, while other mills so nearly approached
them as to make their special mention almost invidious. This favor-
able impression of our foreign associates was confirmed by visits
which they made to some of the mills which had exhibited. They
shared the opinion expressed to the writer by Professor GLrothe, of
Germany, author of the most complete modern treatise on the card-
wool manufacture, that the American mills which he had just visited
were in possession of the best and most recent processes, improve-
ments, and machines known in Europe, and were admirable in their

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GENERAL FEPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. 45

administration. It is due to our wool-growers to say that the cloths
so highly commended were made generally of American wool. Aus-
tralian wool being used in some cases, not from preference, but to eke
out the short supply of the domestic stock.

It is proper in this connection to depart from the strict arrangement
of the classification to consider a class of fabrics which, though made
of combed wool, are really cloths, and are directly allied with the
card-wool fabrics just reviewed. The Exhibition showed that the
most formidable rivals of the fancy cassimeres are the fabrics known
as worsted coatings. Being woven in the fancy loom, either Jacquard
or Crompton, and made for the same purposes and by the same man-
ufacturers as the cassimeres. they differ from them only in the respect
that the cassimeres are made of carded and the worsted cloth of
combed wool. This fabric, created in France, in the introduction of
its fabrication to this country affords another illustration of the benefit
of International Exhibitions. Mr. E. R. Mudge, of Boston, being
Commissioner of the United States at the Exposition of Paris of 1867,
was impressed with this fabric then exhibited, and then much worn
both in London and Paris, as a novelty. Seeing that it was made of
combed Merino wool, he directed inquiries to ascertain if suitable
wools for this fabric could be abundantly furnished by American
fleeces. Satisfying himself affirmatively upon this point, he imported
and introduced the requisite machinery for combing and spinning the
wools at the Washington Mills, in Lawrence, Massachusetts, of which
he is a leading director. This establishment succeeded so well in the
fabrication of these stuffs, and they proved so popular when thrown
upon the market, that the introducer soon found a host of rivals and
imitators. A new industry at once sprung up, — that of combing and
spinning the wools into worsted yarns, for supplying the many fancy
cassimere-mills which desired to weave these fabrics. One of the
most conspicuous displays at the Exhibition was that of the United
Spinners* Association of Philadelphia, comprising eight distinct
establishments, all exclusively devoted to making Merino combing-
wool worsteds for worsted coatings and for suspenders and india-
rubber goods, and producing an annual product of ;f 1,500,000. The
perfection of the yarns was fully recognized by the experts in the
group of Judges. They were made almost exclusively of American
Merino wool, which the exhibitors declared to have proved pre-
ferable for their purpose to even the best Australian wools, being
"kinder, more elastic, and stronger.** Here was a new industry
founded scarcely six years ago, and a palpable demonstration of new
and unsuspected qualities of excellence in American wools, — a de-
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46 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

monstration most gratifying to those who, twelve years ago, had
pointed out these qualities to incredulous manufacturers.

The American worsted coatings were extensively exhibited. The
excellence attained in so short a period was a matter of surprise.
While the fine diagonals of Sedan were not equaled, the American
exhibit, as a whole, compared favorably with those from abroad. In
the fabrics for overcoatings, Moscows, Kerseys, Castor beavers, and
Elysians, there was the same general resemblance in the stuffs from
different countries, already spoken of as forming one of the charac-
teristic features of the woolen manufacture of the present day. All
the kinds made abroad, with the exception of special novelties, — like
the beautiful peau d'ours, a species of Moscow coating made at
Dussen, in Germany, and the delicately soft Montagnac overcoatings
of Sedan, — are made in this country ; and our fabrics did not suffer by
comparison.

The value of a manufacture is shown less in costly fabrics than in
the common cloths combining utility and cheapness. Commendation
was given to a mill established as an accessory to the largest iron-
making establishment in Pennsylvania, in which the women and
children of the operatives obtained employment, and which furnished
cloths, marked for their soundness and cheapness, for the workmen.
Many of the combinations of wool with cotton or union cloths were
noticeable for cheapness and utility, such as the Kentucky jeans with
cotton warps and wool filling, in much esteem for cheapness and
wearing qualities in the agricultural districts in the Southern and
Western States. The repellents, or water-proof cloths, show another
union fabric.

FELTED GOODS.

The exhibits of felted goods, quite numerous and varied from the
United States, were few and barely incidental from foreign nations ;
and those which were seen were Oriental in their origin or affinities.
They were incidentally seen in the national fez of Turkey, so en-
during in fabric and pleasing as well as enduring in its madder-red
color; in fils of exquisite softness to the touch, made of camel's, hiair,
forming the ground for costly Turkish embroidery (a material de-
serving more extensive use for this purpose) ; and the thick Russian
felts made up into boots and gaiters, — ^the only foot-covering, accord-
ing to Mr. Bielsky, the Commissioner for Russia, capable of resisting
the cold of a Siberian winter. These articles also deserve imitation.
It is believed that felted cloth was the most natural and the first stuff
employed by man. We cannot reflect without pride that the first in-
vention of primitive man in the textile arts, originating in Asia, the

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, 47

cradle of the race, and still in use among the ruder tribes of the East,
remained without progress for centuries, until revised, amplified, and
made tributary to domestic comfort and the arts in all civilized com-
munities, by our own countrymen and in our own times. M. Koep-
pelin. a French expert, speaks thus, in the Annales du Genie Civil of
1869, of this fabric: " In spite of the simplicity of its fabrication, and
in spite of the antiquity of its origin, felting was for a long time aban-
doned to the lesser industries. It is only within thirty years that the
mechanical fabrication of felted cloths has been essayed. Many fruit-
less attempts in this direction were made in France and other coun-
tries ; and it is only to the spirit of invention of two Americans, Wells
and Williams, that we owe the processes now in use, and which have
not been materially modified since the epoch of their discovery."
Their processes, he says, were applied in France and England, and are
used in the latter country for making printed felt carpets, exported
in vast quantities all parts of the world,- and popular from their
great cheapness.

No other published notice of this interesting invention has come
within the notice of the writer. He has fortunately come into pos-
session of other facts in relation to the introduction of this im-
portant fabric, creditable alike to American ingenuity and British
enterprise, which seem worthy of a detailed notice, because not
hitherto known to the public. The facts are derived from a personal
communication by a gentleman hereafter mentioned.

Thomas Robinson Williams, of Newport, Rhode Island, connected
with the Hazard family of that State, so well known as wool-manu-
facturers, invented the process of making felt cloth of commercial
length, at Rhode Island, about 1820. About 1824, he went to Eng-
land, for the purpose of introducing this invention, and also one for
making hat bodies, in which he was associated with a Mr. Wells. He
took out a patent in England in 1830. He succeeded in enlisting
the co-operation of capitalists, who, about 1838, erected a factory in
Leeds, with a capital and plant of ;^250,ooo. the designation of the
proprietors being the Victoria Cloth Company. Meeting with imme-
diate success in the fabrication, the enterprise created a great excite-
ment in manufacturing circles, as it threatened to revolutionize the
whole system of cloth-making. The principal editors of the London
papers visited the establishment, and vied with each other in descrip-
tions of the new art. The Queen gave extensive orders for the stuffs,
and the Mistress of the Robes — the Duchess of Sutherland — fur-
nished the grand staircase and vestibule of her London residence
with a crimson carpet of the Williams felting, draping the windows

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48 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

of the hall with a thinner fabric of the same make. In the full tide of
its success, the vast establishment was destroyed by an incendiary
fire. It was uninsured ; and Williams, whose whole property was in
it, died from grief and disappointment. In the mean time, a patent
for making felt cloths of a commercial length, by an entirely dis-
similar process, had been taken out by Joseph Waite, of Leeds, the
use of which in England was enjoined by the courts, as conflicting
with Williams's patent. Mr. J. Burrows Hyde, of New York, our
informant as to these facts, a gentleman of science and enterprise,
bought both the Waite patent and the Williams patent in this country,
and sold the rights to the Bay State (now Washington) Mills, at
Lawrence, Massachusetts, about 1853. For many years this mill en-
joyed nearly the complete monopoly of this fabrication in this coun-
try, to its great profit. The exceptions to this monopoly were a
fabrication of felt cloths, not of commercial lengths, conducted in
Norwalk, Connecticut, under the Bishop patent, and the manufacture
of hat bodies, conducted under the Wells patents. The Williams
and Waite patents having expired in Europe and this country, the
manufacture has attained the wide and vast extension of the present
day.

While few foreign exhibits of this fabric were noted, the American
felts appeared in innumerable forms. They appeared as printed and
embossed piano-cloths and as ladies' skirts ; as floor-cloths printed by
a Philadelphia establishment, with highly artistic designs; as a material
for sheathing roofs, vessels, and iron buildings ; combined with asbes-
tos, as non-conducting envelopes for steam-boilers and hot-air pipes ;
for lining rubber fabrics (being the only material which stretches
equally in all directions) ; in soles for shoes and in gun-wads, in
masses of several inches in thickness, for polishing wheels and buffers
for jewelers ; in other forms, for polishing cabinet-work and marble ;
and, in a high-cost material, for hammers of piano-keys. Conspicuous
among these exhibits were the felts for polishing, made by Charles
N. Bacon, of Winchester, Massachusetts, which possessed a thickness,
compactness, and adaptation to special purposes which has never been
surpassed. In the common felts the raw material is hair, or the cheap-
est Mexican wool, and in the others, as before said, the finest wool
from Silesia. These were interesting illustrations of the almost in-
finite uses which may be derived from a single attribute of a fibre, all
resulting from the serratures in the filament of wool and hair, which
give them their felting power.

Allied to these goods, though not strictly felts, are the feltings used
in paper-making, which are woven fabrics highly felted. The enor-

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. 40

mous extension of our paper-manufacture has of late years stimulated a
supply from domestic sources of this indispensable material for paper-
making, not long since obtained from abroad. Exhibits of paper felts
were made by several mills. A letter from Messrs. Rice, Kendall, &
Co., paper- manufacturers and dealers in paper- makers' supplies, — the
head of the firm being the present Governor of Massachusetts, — ex-
presses the general character of the American felts, although having
in view the product of a special mill. ** We have introduced them,"
they say, ** into paper-mills making all the finer qualities of bond- or
writing-paper; also best and ordinary book-, news-, Manila-, tissue-,
straw-, and sheathing-paper; also printers' and woolen manufacturers'
press-boards, leathers, and binders' boards, and wood-pulp; and have
had many high recommendations from the manufacturers regarding
their wear and suitable quality. . . . We feel confident that they (the
American felt-makers named) are able to manufacture anything in the
line of feltings used by the various manufacturers of paper; and,
judging from our former experience as importers of felts, they have
made many improvements in them." It is curious that the art ot
joining the two extremities to make an endless felt is kept a secret
by the fortunate possessors, for the use of which manufacturers pay a
royalty.

Although no hat bodies — another form of felted goods — were ex-
hibited, several special machines for forming hat bodies were shown,
illustrating how completely the handicraft had been substituted by
machinery. There is hardly a process in the manufacture which is
not now done automatically, a single establishment turning off eight
hundred dozen of hats daily. The hatter, as a separate artisan, has
disappeared. Fifty years ago there was one in every village. A
hatter's bow having been recently required in a patent trial, a diligent
search could not find one in the country.

CLASS 236. — Plain Flannels, Dometts, Opera and Fancy.

The flannel-manufacture, almost exclusively represented at the
Exhibition by American exhibits, has attained an enormous develop-
ment in the United States, as illustrated by the fact that an auction
sale, in July last, by a single house representing 157 sets in different
mills, netted $2,500,000. Flannel being the first stage in the manu-
facture of plain cloth, it constitutes one of the principal products of
the smaller mills in the new States; while, in the older manufac-
turing States, mills employing from ten to fifty sets are exclusively
engaged in its manufacture. The great domestic demand for these
goods may be attributed to the rigor of our climate, or to the fact

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50 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

that the masses of our population are liberal in providing themselves
with the fabric so essential for personal comfort. Flannels find their
consumption not only in men's garments, — for which purpose their
use has vastly increased through better hygienic knowledge. — but
in garments for children, linings for overcoats, blouses for workmen,
fatigue uniforms for soldiers and police officers, and coats for summer
wear.

It is some twenty or thirty years since the American fabric excluded
foreign flannels from our market, with the single exception of opera
flannels, which no longer exist. The primary cause of the success
in this manufacture has been the peculiar adaptation of American
wools for this fabric. This adaptation consists in their spinning
qualities, their soundness and elasticity, and the medium fineness,
producing the requisite softness, without too much felting quality to
cause an undue shrinkage of the goods.

By an examination of a line or series of samples of different grades
of English flannels, in comparison with a line of American flannels
corresponding in grade and price, it was observed that the English
flannels are more highly fulled, and less finished in the face, than the
American goods. The American fabrics have the yarns more closely
twisted, in order to prevent shrinkage, and the fabric is smoother and
more sightly in face. The difference in intrinsic value could not be
proven, the different styles being adapted to the tastes of different
markets. A large exportation is now being made to Canada.

With the command of their own markets, American manufacturers
have adapted their fabrics to the wants of consumers. In 1835 the
domett flannels, an original fabric composed of a cotton warp with a
filling of wool, came into use as a substitute for the linsey- woolen
stuffs, originally of household manufacture, worn by working women
for under-petticoats. Having the merit of shrinking but little in wash-
ing, it still holds its place as a characteristic American fabric. The red
flannels have found a vast consumption among the working popula-
tion, especially lumbermen and frontiersmen, the pliability of the
fabric giving freedom to the limbs. Formerly the red color, less
brilliant than now used, was given by a madder dye. subsequently by
lac ; while at present the brilliant and fast scarlet of the cochineal is
in almost universal use, the price of cochineal having been reduced to
half of its former rate by the introduction of the aniline dyes. The
consumption of blue flannels by the army and navy forms another
important outlet for this class of fabrics. They form the under-gar-
ments for all the men in both services, and the summer undress coats
in the former. The regulations of the services require that these flan-

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, 51

nels should have a twilled weave, and be both wool- and indigo-dyed.
The regulations of the Government have tended to keep alive the skill
in indigo-dyeing, which, from its costliness, threatened to disappear
before cheaper processes. The excellence attained in the army and
navy flannels led the way to a more perfected fabric. About 1859
appeared, either through the Middlesex or Washington Mills, — for the
honpr is claimed by both, and the products of both vie with each other
in celebrity, — the blue flannel coating, indigo- and wool-dyed, and
having a three-leaved twill. This fabric — sheared and finished like
cloth, but retaining the lightness and pliability of the flannel texture,
forming an admirable material for summer garments — is distinctly
American in origin and character. It has a large domestic consump-
tion, and has become an article of export to South America.

Opera flannels — a name given abroad, from one of its original uses,
to a light flannel more highly gigged and finished than the ordinary
article, being piece-dyed uniformly, in many fancy colors, and hot-
pressed — were first introduced into this country by the Bay State
Mills. They have, however, gained their command of the American
market principally through the fabrication of a manufacturer of
Ware, Massachusetts, now deceased. He commenced the manufacture
in 1858, making in that year four thousand pieces. . In 1871 his estab-
lishment made and sold, of this single fabric, one hundred and twenty
thousand pieces, or nearly two million yards. At this time foreign
importations of this fabric had entirely ceased. The thorough
cleansing of the fabric to receive the dye, and the requisite skill to
give the numerous colors and shades desired, are the principal diffi-
culties which the manufacturers have to encounter, single manufac-
turers keeping all the time a hundred or more distinct shades and
colors in stock. American opera flannels were abundantly and taste-
fully displayed at the Exhibition by several mills. Nothing surpassed
them in variety and perfection of hues and shades, except, perhaps,
the masterpieces of the French dye-houses, — the exquisite merinos
of Rheims and Paris. It is noteworthy that these fabrics Are made
wholly of American wool, the quality known as XX being used for
medium, and picklock (selected from choice flocks) for the finest
grades.

American flannels of a still higher grade exhibited were the all-
wool gauze and silk-warped flannels. The credit of the introduction
of the fine flannel manufacture belongs to the Ballardvale Mills, in
Andover, Massachusetts, this mill being the first which made fine
yarns by double spinning. In some of these fabrics, made expressly
for the Exhibition, there were one hundred and thirty picks to the

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52 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

inch. The yarns for fiUing were spun in such fineness that they
attained 46,500 yards in length to the pound, the warps reaching
34,500 yards. Among the uses of these fine flannels is their applica-
tion for lining coffins and for burial shrouds. It is known that the
wealthy classes in England, in the last century, rebelled against a
law requiring all persons to be buried in flannels. Improvements in
manufacture have caused a fabric, which was then obnoxious from
its coarseness, to be now specially adapted for burial habiliments,
through its softness and fineness.

Another variety of flannel, which has wholly replaced the French
fabfic formerly largely imported, is the fancy flannel still called French
plaid. The fabrics of this variety consist of plaids, or broken plaids
and checks, and are dyed in the wool. The great bulk consists in two
colors combined, scarlet and white and blue and white. They are
largely used for shirts and children's garments. The printed flannels
for children, formerly in use, have almost wholly disappeared.

CLASS 237. — Blankets, Robes, and Shawls.

The last observation made under the preceding class also applies
to the first article in this class. The American medium or grade
merino wools are no less fitted for flannels than for blankets. They
compose the raw material of the great bulk of the blankets which
enter into our consumption, although noils, from carpet- and combing-
wools, are used to some extent. The lowest grades of blankets,
composed of shoddy, hair, and the cheapest wool, which are salable
abroad, cannot be disposed of here. Even the lowest of our con-
sumers, the savage Indians, — who are supplied with blankets by our
Government, according to the statement of one of our colleagues,
who is a member of the Indian Peace Commission, — are skillful
judges of the quality of blankets. The standard Indian blankets
shown at the Exhibition presented all the requisites of a substantial
and useful article.

Many mills are exclusively devoted to- the production of blankets,
principally those of medium qualities for the consumption of the
millions. Some Eastern manufacturers, who have made blankets for
forty years, have a yearly production exceeding ;J 1,000,000 in value,
and one establishment in Minnesota a production of nearly $400,000
annually. The substantial quality of these medium goods, and in
some the cleanness of the stock and freedom from grease, were
especially noticeable.

No wool fabrics at the Exhibition, of our own production, attracted
so much admiration from the foreign Judges as the highest grades of

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. 53

American blankets. The credit of the introduction of this eminently
characteristic fabric is due to the Mission Mills of California, estab-
lished in 1858. Nothing comparable with these blankets in weight,
thickness, softness, and perfection of face had ever before been
attempted, and it is impossible to conceive of a more luxurious bed-
covering. The beauty of the fabric was not less a matter of surprise
to our foreign visitors than the luxurious tastes of a people which
could make blankets costing from thirty to fifty dollars a pair salable.
The California blankets of this grade are made with a filling of Aus-
tralfan wool, the warps being of California wool. Blankets of no less
beauty and perfection were exhibited by a Minnesota mill, and these
were made exclusively of wool grown in that State.

Totally different in style and material, but not less admirable, were
blankets exhibited by Austria and the Netherlands. Those exhibited
by a Netherlands manufacturer were especially noticeable. The wool
was of a coarser quality than that used in the California blankets, and
the pile of unusual length. They were woven in great variety of
colors, and with tasteful designs, in the Jacquard loom, and are highly
worthy of imitation by our manufacturers.

An ample field for the application of color is found in the manufac-
ture of rail-car blankets, and especially of carriage, railway, and lap
robes. All the European styles of these articles have been adopted
here, besides other articles of this class, of still more extensive use,
such as the admirable horse-cloths and blankets not long since ex-
clusively furnished by England, which find complete imitation, if
not improvement, in our own manufactures.

In the important class of shawls, we naturally observe those most
nearly allied in material and texture to the fabrics which we have been
considering. The manufacture of the all-wool plaid shawls — formerly
known in this country as the Bay State Shawl, from the mill which
introduced it — originated in Massachusetts about 1848. Favored by
the easy application of the cassimere twill to this fabric, and the facil-
ity with which the design is made and varied through the alternate
concurrence of the warp and woof, and still further aided by the
adaptation of medium American wools to this fabric, it at once
attained perfection. The shawls of the Bay State Mills exhibited
at the first International Exhibition, that of 1 851, were pronounced
by French experts as *' quite remarkable for the lightness and soft-
^ness of the stuff;" and shawls exhibited by the same mill at the
Paris Exposition of 1867 were commended for the same qualities,
as well as for their moderate price. This manufacture has now im-
mense production. Still, the English and Scotch shawls, made of

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INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

coarser Cheviot wools, and of a thicker texture, would be preferred
for many uses.

No attempts to make the highest qualities of shawls have been
made in this country, partly for the same reason that the French, who
had perfectly succeeded in making the cashmere shawls, were com-
pelled to abandon the manufacture, because the French ladies pre-
ferred an inferior but genuine Indian shawl to a better article of French
fabrication. Exquisite shawls, but of precisely the same texture as
the Indian shawls, were exhibited by Lyons manufacturers. The
material is the finest and most costly Electoral wool. The prices range
from $10 to $150. The only rivals of the French in this class of
shawls are houses in Vienna, whose products were also exhibited.
None but the initiated could determine the difference between these
two national products. The French, however, assert that the Austrian
products are copied from their own, but that the delicacy of the origi-
nals is lost, saying, ** One may transplant a tree, but not the soil and
the air which give flavor to its fruits." It is asserted that the silky
Mauchamp wool, previously mentioned, forms a material for the finest
shawls, really surpassing the cashmere of the East.

Admirable shawls made of wool or worsted, in India designs, have
become celebrated under the name of Paisley shawls, from the place of
their manufacture in Scotland. None of the Scotch shawls of this class
were exhibited, but this style of fabrication was represented by shawls
of India designs, made by Messrs. Martin Landenberger & Sons, of
Philadelphia, the material being American combing-wool. These
shawls, well made and in excellent taste, are woven in the power
Jacquard loom, at prices so moderate as to insure a large popular
consumption.

CLASS 238. — Combed Wool Fabrics, Worsted, Yarns, Dress
Goods for Women's Wear. Delaines, Serges. Poplins, Me-
rinos.

This class includes, with the exception of carpets, all the multi-
tudinous fabrics recognized in England as the products of the worsted
industry. It forms the second of the two grand divisions of the wool-
industry. Through the variety of its products, the skill demanded in
their fabrication, the capital and number of persons employed in the
great manufacturing nations of Europe, and the rapidity of its develop-
ment during the last century, this division has become the most
important branch of the woolen manufacture.

So important a dass could not fail to be largely represented in an
exhibition of the products of the world; but the student of textile

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, 55

industry was obliged to regret an incompleteness in the series of these
fabrics, especially from the two leading nations in this industry, —
France and England, — and a deficiency in the labeling of many which
were exhibited, so as to show their proper names and composition.
We were disappointed in the expectation that the Exhibition would
shed full light upon the difficult subject of the nomenclature and com-
position of the infinite variety of worsted fabrics. We use the word
" worsted" — which, although not strictly accurate, is the most con-
venient English term — to designate the fabrics in question.

To render our future remarks intelligible to unskilled readers, we
are compelled to enter at once upon the subject of the names and dis-
tinguishing characteristics of worsted fabrics, an inquiry demanded
by the popular ignorance on the subject, which prevails to no little
extent even among the dealers in the articles in question. In no de-
partment of practical knowledge is there so much confusion in the
meaning and application of names. The names of the fabrics have
rarely any etymological signification. They are usually given arbi-
trarily by the first introducer of the article, and, if they are success-
ful, become applied to articles quite different from the original fabrics,
and especially to imitations in cheaper materials. Fabrics substan-
tially the same are constantly reappearing under different names. It
is still possible, though difficult, to obtain some order out of this ap-
parerit confusion, and to bring the different varieties of these fabrics
into an arrangement which approaches a scientific classification.

The leading basis of this classification is the character of the weave,
or, as it is styled by the French, the ar?nure of the fabric, the word
armure signifying the system of harnesses with which the loom is
armed, or provided, to produce a definite issue. These armures con-
sist of four fundamental or classical forms, from which all the varieties
of simple tissues are derived. I. That of taffeta. In this, the most
simple form of tissue, there are only two harnesses, forming a simple
interlacement of the threads of the warp and weft. This is the weave
of broadcloth, cotton shirtings and sheetings, and mousselines de
laine. 2. The twilIed«or Batavia weave, produced by four harnesses.
3. The serge tissue, produced by three harnesses. 4. The satin weave,
produced by five or more harnesses, the effect of which is to bring
the threads of the weft to the face. Different effects are produced
from derivatives of these fundamental tissues. Thus, in the most
simple, — that of cloth or taffetas, — varied effects are produced by the
greater or less torsion of the threads, and the direction in which they
are twisted ; by variations in the size of the threads of the warp or
weft compared with each other; by making the same weft pass alter-

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56 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

nately over two threads and one thread of the warp, making a " rep"
or corded tissue. Still other variations are made by the different
materials of the warp and weft, by having them of pure wool and of
a single color, or mixed with silk, mohair, or China-grass, or by
having the threads printed in different tints. The four fundamental
regular interlacements before described, which form the base or ground
of even the most complicated tissues, are further varied by having
combinations of crossings of the threads which occur at variable
places at each course of the thread across the web, forming figured,
brocade, or damasked effects, which are produced by the Jacquard
loom. Another variation is made by having two warps, one to form
the ground of- the tissue, and the other made to pass over wires to
form a loop, making the velvet or pile fabrics. There are still to be
added the highly-important differences of character, equally obvious
to the touch and the eye, produced by the character of wool used,
whether fine and soft (like merino and cashmere), or hard and lustrous
(like English combing-wool and mohair).

These remarks will enable the reader more readily to understand
the classification of fabrics condensed from M. Alcan (the highest
authority upon this subject), and published in his treatise on working
wools, in 1866. As the American importation of worsted dress goods
is principally from France, the catalogue is not less valuable because
limited to French fabrics. For the same reason the French names
are retained.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX.

WORSTED STUFFS OF FINE WOOL.

Namss of Stuffs.

Armurb.

Warp.

Weft.

Observations.

Manteau

Taffetas

Wool carded..
Wool

Wool carded..
Fine wool

Wool

Made of long-combed wool,

and wide for furniture.

Woven in checks and Scotch

plaids, the warp having a

serge armure of 2 anai,

and the weft a sei^ge ar-

1 mure of i and 2.

( Made from 8 to 50 picks to

< the centimetre. Its use
( univers»al. Picce-dycd.

The warp double.

Poplins are either all wool, or
with warps of cotton, silk
chappe, or organ zine, or
fancy printed. The poplin
or corded effect produced
by the size of the weft.

Generally printed.

j Differs from barege only in

1 the materials.

( The weft highly twisted and

< eas serged ; a kind of close
( Urige.

' The same weave as the pre-
ceding, but differing in
material.
The warp composed ot three
threads, and is white,
while the weft is violet
blue, or black, which gives
reflections to the stuff.

The warps are printed or chinis.

/ Characterized by its peculiar
( finish.

( The stuff has a peculiar elas-
■< ticitv. due to the close

Reps

Turquoise

Serge

Merinos

Batavia or twill on
both sides.

Twilled on one side.
Taffeta

Fine wool

Wool... .

Cashmere

„

Drapd'ei^

Mousselines -..

MouUetons

Satin

Popeline or poplin...
Barege

Gauze or open taf-
feta.

Gauze and taffeta. ..

tt It
Taffeta

Various ma-
terials.

Cotton

•
English wool.

Merino wool..

English comb-
ing-wool.

Merino wool..

Mohair, 0 r
mixed with
silk.

Challis

Silk grige

Silk gr^e, or-
ganzine, or
cotton.

Cotton

Grenadine

Mozambique

Crape of Spain

Llanos

Silk grige

Cotton

Grisaille

Cotton chappe
or fancy.

Cotton, sim-
plcor double
and twisted.

Silk grige

Cotton .double
and twisted.

Simple cotton
Wool

Toile dc Saxe

Circassianne

Cretonne

Mohair, 0 r
silk and mo-
hair.

Wool

j ( spinning of the warp.
Carded wool..!

- ; For rcligicuscs.

Combed wool.'

vtJdc ::::::."*::.*:::;.7

•<

Silk chappe ..
Wool or silk-
Wool

Figured or fancy

Taffeta

Wool

For furniture.

««

A light flannel, made in gray
ot in all varieties of colors.

•

Alpaga

Cotton

Lincoln wool.

Knit wool

Merino wool..

Popeline satin

„

Wool and silk
^l^l\

Taffetas

J Biarets

Corded or cannci

Taffeta and corded..

Serge 2 and i

Serge

Merino wool..
Silk

tpinglc

Alpine

Drap d'Alpes

Anacosii

Batavia

.Wool

«<

KpcuKline

Tamise reps

Corded*.*.'.'.'.."!.!'..*."!!!

;: !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Silk

Wool

Drap d'Alma

Wool

There are no means of obtaining the names of other French fabrics,
or the new names of the same fabrics introduced since the above list
was pubhshed, except from the dealers in these articles. We have to

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58 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

thank Messrs. Hovey & Co., of Boston, for a series of samples of
French fabrics, with the following names :

Velours All wool.

Empress All wool.

Chambery gauze Silk and goat's hair.

Mousse] ine de bege ....

Cashmere de bege All wool.

Merino tulle All wool.

Pongee Silk and wool.

Mohair glaci Goat's hair and cotton.

Vigogne Silk and wool and all wool.

Serge All wool.

Basket All wool, fancy.

Matelasse Silk and wool.

Diagonals All wool and silk wool.

Imi>erial silk serge Silk and wool.

Algerine All wool.

Armure Silk and wool.

Turenne cloth Cotton and wool.

Drap d'Alma Silk and wool.

Sicilienne Silk and wool.

Bombazine Silk and wool.

Tamise ..*.... All wool.

Chinchilla Camel's hair.

Mexican cloth Silk and wool.

-^ . , V I f Wool with irregular spots of different

Knickerbockers < , . ,

t colors and materials.

French camel's hair .... Cashmere goat's wool.

Satine All wool, with satin weave.

Australian crape Cotton and wool.

Drap de Nationelle . . . .All wool.

Pararaetta cloth Silk and wool.

Henrietta cloth Silk and wool.

Hemani . Silk and wool.

T^ , (Wool, silk and wool, and wool and

Damasks J ... .--

T» J K cotton, in mfinite varieties for fumi-

Brocades

I ture, woven on the Jacquard loom.

Some of the general features of the French fabrication of dress and
furniture stuffs may here be appropriately considered. The influence
of the possession by France of Merino wool upon the character of
her dress fabrics has already been referred to in this report. In the
spinning of fine Merino wools, and weaving them into dress goods,
France takes precedence of all nations.

The most important contribution to this success was the invention,
by Heilman, of Mulhouse, of a method of mechanical combing, adapted
to the short fibres of Merino wool as well as to the long staple for-
merly regarded as exclusively combing-wool. Mainly through this
invention, France, to u.se Mr. Alcan's words, " marched, in the early

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, jq

part of this century, with the step of a giant. The means of fabrica-
tion were so ameh'orated, in the short space of a quarter of a century,
that the spinning of Merino wools attained a fineness and regularity
once impossible with the best hand-spinning. The machines turned
out lengths of yarn of 200,000 metres to the kilogramme, from a kind
of wool which, twenty-five years before, would scarcely have produced
50,000 metres ; and the price of the unit of weight of an identical
article had descended from eighty to fourteen francs, although the
prices of labor had increased." Among the exhibits of the house of
Auguste Seydoux, illustrating the material from which their famous
merinos, cashmeres, and challis are made, were weft yarns of Aus-
tralian combed wool of the fineness of 109,120 yards to one pound.
It is unnecessary' to enlarge upon the beauty and perfection of the
merinos, cashmeres d'Ecosse, and challis exhibited at Philadelphia.
They are recognized throughout the world as inimitable, and as
exhibiting the most perfect fabrics in the whole range of the textile
industry.

Another reason for the French success in these fabrics is the special-
ization of different branches, and the fabrication of the same article,
the spinning, weaving, and finishing forming the three great groups.
This division of the fabrication into groups, according to Alcan,
" facilitates the labor, concentrates the aptitudes, regulates the pro-
duction, and contributes to ameliorate the results and the economical
conditions. Specialization renders the industry accessible to all, — to
moderate fortunes as well as heavy capital.** The adoption of this
system is now taking place in Philadelphia, with marked beneficial
results. Another cause must always give France the pre-eminence.
The arbiter elegantiarum of the world in the* fabrics of taste, she can
impose, by her imperial sway upon the followers of fashion through-
out the world, the fabrics which she has created, leaving the other
nations to supply imitations to the less fastidious masses.

England, who did not do justice to herself by her display of worsted
fabrics at Philadelphia, has attained success in another direction. She
aims to supply the world with worsted fabrics adapted for the con-
sumption of the million. In extent of production and cheapness of
fabrication she leads all pther nations. It would be presumptuous to
attempt, in the space allotted to this paper, even a sketch of her vast
worsted-manufacture, while its characteristics, and the names of its
principal fabrics, can be intimated, at least, under the head of our
own worsted-manufacture, which is in the main copied from that of
England. A feature of some of the higher classes of her worsted
fabrics displayed at the Exhibition should not be pa«?sed without

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6o INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

notice. With the fashions at present prevailing, there is an extremely
limited application of the arts of design in fabrics destined for per-
sonal wear. Even the printing of dress goods of wool and mixed
materials, which offered a wide field for the application of art, has
greatly declined, as the costumes of the present day obtain variety
by the use of different hues of plain fabrics. An ample field for the
application of art is found in stuffs for furniture, carpets, and hangings
for rooms, — the furniture and curtain stuffs of worsted, or worsted
and silk. The reps, damasks, and brocades showed the wonderful
artistic progress effected by her schools of design and her teachers in
practical art, such as Jones, Hulme, Morris, and Dresser. The dis-
plays of the Royal School of Art Needlework showed that the high-
est amateur taste of the kingdom is being brought into the service of
the decorative arts, furnishing models and stimulus to the practical
manufacturers. Through these influences, the designs for decorative
fabrics have a style distinctly recognized as that of the ** English
school," in which mediaeval motives are revived, plant-forms are con-
ventionalized, while the natural treatment of foliage and flowers, and
the artificial luxuriance of the Renaissance designs, are equally abjured.
In the decoration of furniture stuffs of their own style the English are
without rivals.

Before proceeding to a sketch of the worsted-manufacture of the
United States, which we shall give from purely original inquiries, it
will be proper to refer to one of the most important steps in the
progress of the worsted- manufacture in this country, to which our
own industry owes its importance. All-wool mousselines de laine
were perfected in France in 1831. In 1833 a fabric first appeared
in France which was a copy of the wool mousselines. with the differ-
ence that the warps were made of cotton. The English adopted
this manufacture, at Bradford, in 1834-35. No event of the cen-
tury has done more for female comfort and for the industry of wool
than the introduction of the cotton warp. Cotton, instead of being
the rival, became the most important auxiliary of wool, and has added
vastly to its consumption. The generic name of cotton delaines,
although now but little used, may be conveniently retained to ex-
press the whole class of these fabrics. They are practically the same
as a woolen fabric, being so covered with wool that the presence of
cotton can be observed only by the closest inspection. Their cheap-
ness and durability make their introduction an invaluable boon to
women of moderate means. Their fabrication constitutes the chief
feature of the manufacture of the great cities of Bradford, in England,
and Roubaix, in France.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. 6i

THE PRINCIPAL COTTON WARPED, WORSTED FABRICS MADE IN
BRADFORD AND THE UNITED STATES.

Names.

Wkavb.

Wbft.

Warp.

Observations.

Delaines

Taffeta

Medium wool

Cotton.

Printed.

A gauze weave.

Printed.

Made in imitation of

cashmeres d Ecosse,

all wool.
Weft originally made

of alpaca.
Usually black, the

warps dyed before

weaving.

A corded effect pro-
duced by the size of
the warp.

Bareges

Gauze

Rep?*

Double-threaded taffeta...
Twilled

C •shmcres*

1 Aloacaf

Taffeta

Long-lustre wool ... ...

' Brilliantine

t
Lustres

An alpaca of lower grade..

Figured fancy weave

A corded ground with a
figure

Fancy alpaca ...
Brocade .....

Poplin

Long'Combing wool. .. .

Debaige

A fabric with weft of black

and white wool mixed...

The same plain

Melange

Italian cloths....

The first attempt to fabricate delaines in the United States was made
in a mill at Ballardvale, in the town of Andover and State of Massa-
chusetts, about 1844, by John Marland, agent of the company. It is
worthy of note as illustrating (what will hereafter be more conspicu-
ous) how naturally and by direct descent the new industry arose and
spread, that the mill at Ballardvale had been organized to make fine
flannels, being first to fabricate flannels in the country. The transition
was natural to delaines, which, as first made, had much of a flannel
character. About 1844 this establishment imported worsted ma-
chinery from England and made some delaines for printing and others
for dyeing. They also introduced hand-combers, and made their
own warps. The wools for the printed delaines were all combed by
hand. The goods were first printed by blocks at North Andover,
and afterwards on the machines of the Hamilton Manufacturing Com-
pany, at Lowell. The fabrication was very successful, although the
goods were inferior to those now made. The principal difficulty
encountered was that of introducing the fabrics into the American
market, which was accomplished only by simulating foreign marks
and disguising the boxes, to conceal the domestic source. This mill
was subsequently leased to Mr. Jeremiah S. Young, who successfully
continued the worsted-manufacture.

The success at Ballardvale induced one of the oldest of the cotton-

* Called " Coburgs" in England.

+ Same fabrics originally called in England ** Orleans."
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62 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

manufacturing establishments — the Amoskeag Company, at Man-
chester, New Hampshire — to try the new fabric. A mill owned by
this company at Hookset, in New Hampshire, was devoted to an
experimental trial, and Mr. Marland received an interest for conduct-
ing the manufacture, which was commenced with about 200 looms.
The goods were printed at Greenwich, in Rhode Island. The fabrica-
tion was continued at Hookset for six or seven years, with a product
of about 38,000 yards per week. The goods sold in the gray at about
14 cents per yard; wool sorts, which now cost 60 cents, costing but
36 cents, and cotton about 10 cents, per pound.

About 1845, certain of the stockholders of the Amoskeag Company
organized the company now known as the Manchester Mills, situated
in the town of that name, purchased a site and power from the
Amoskeag Company, and built an extensive factory expressly for the
purpose of making delaines. The cotton warps were originally made
at Hookset. The first delaines were made at Manchester by carding,
the wool-combers not being introduced until 1855, the Noble comber
finally taking the place of the inferior combers of American invention
first used. This company continued to improve its machinery and
enlarge its production, which now reaches 250,000 pieces annually,
of fifty yards each, the products having a reputation equal to that of
any in the market.

The Hamilton Woolen Company, at Southbridge, Massachusetts,
was originally established for the manufacture of cloths. About
1845 th^ leading stockholders of this company, who had been selling
agents of the Amoskeag Company, seeing the success at Hookset,
resolved upon converting the mill at Southbridge into a worsted-
factory. It met at first with little success, until its management was
undertaken by Mr. Ballard, in 1846, who is still the treasurer of the
company. The products of this mill, in printed delaines and reps,
received deserved commendation at the Exhibition.

The line of descent in our worsted-manufacture, which we have
traced from the estabKshment at Ballardvale, was continued in the
Pacific Mills, its first treasurer and the constructor of its works being
Mr. Young, before referred to, a brother-in-law of Mr. Marland, who
had gained his practical experience at Ballardvale. As this establish-
ment is the largest in this country, and, as it is believed, in the world,
where all the branches of the worsted fabrication are carried on within
the walls of a single proprietorship, its exceptional importance will
justify a somewhat extended notice of its history and operations.

The Pacific Mills are situated in Lawrence, Massachusetts, on the
Merrimac River, twenty-six miles from Boston. The enterprise was

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OP GROUP IX, 63

started by the Essex Company, Mr. Abbott Lawrence being presi-
dent and Mr. Young treasurer of the company. It was incorporated
in 1853, under its present name, with a capital of ;f 2,000,000, for
the purpose of making ladies' dress goods from wool wholly, from
cotton wholly, and from wool and cotton combined ; and was pro-
vided with all the appliances of manufacture, including print- and
dye-works. The construction of the works having exceeded the
amount of capital paid in, the establishment found itself, in the very
first years of its existence, on the« brink of failure. This failure was
arrested by the munificence of Mr. Abbott Lawrence, who, on his
private responsibility, advanced several hundred thousand dollars to
meet the emergencies of the mill, thus adding to his title for recogni-
tion as one of the great founders of the manufactures of New Eng-
land. A hardly less important work of Mr. Lawrence was securing
for the treasurership of the mills, vacated through the declining health
of Mr. Young, the services of Mr. J. Wiley Edmands, who had been
educated in his house. Mr. Edmands took the treasurership and the
responsible management of the mills in June, 1855. For the subse-
quent two or three years, the establishment, although actually mak-
ing money, was only sustained by borrowing largely. In 1857 the
leading commission houses of New England succumbed unde;* the
pressure of the well-known panic of that period. The Pacific Mills
were compelled to ask an extension of credit for six months, to which
every creditor assented. In 1858 the stockholders were called upon
to furnish an additional capital of ;J500,ooo, of which all but ;Sl75,ooo
was secured. The stock representing this amount, not secured, was
sold at public auction, in 1859, at from ^1320 to $11/^2 per share, the
par value being ;^iooo ; although, in 1857, two years previously, many
shares had been sold at prices ranging from $'j^ to $2QO, During
the first year of the war, i86i,the mills lost money, the product then
being about 11,000,000 yards of dress goods, cotton and woolen.
In 1870 the product reached 45,000,000 yards; and, for several years
since that date, the annual sales, including the cloths purchased for
printing, have reached about 65,000,000 yards. Of this, about sixty
per cent, are stuff or worsted goods. Estimating our population at
45,000,000, and that one-third of this population (15,000,000) consists
of women and girls, the Pacific Mills, which have all their consump-
tion at home, supply not less than four yards of dress goods to each
person of our population wearing these fabrics.

The following statistics of this establishment will give a better idea
of the magnitude of its operations :

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Number of mills and buildings

Acres of flooring in buildings

Cotton spindles

Worsted spindles

Number of looms

Pounds cotton used per week

Pounds fleece wool used j>er week

Yards of cloth printed or dyed per week, more than

Printing-machines, — from two to sixteen colors

Tons of coal used per year ....

Number of steam-boilers in all (32,000 Jiorse-power)

Number of steam-engines (1200 horse-power)

Number of turbine-wheels (2000 horse-power)

Cost of gas per year (5000 burners) .

Cost of labor per month ....

Average daily earnings, women and girls .

Average daily earnings, men and boys

Persons employed, women and girls, 3534 \

Persons employed, men and boys, 1766 /

Number of houses for work-people .

25,000

4»S«>

116,000

65,000

1,000,000

24
23,000

fcS.ooo

^160,000

98 cents.

^1.40

5»3oo
275

To this it may be added, that the raw materials for dyeing and
printing require an annual expenditure of ^00,000; the consump-
tion of potato starch is 500 tons a year, or the product of 125,000
bushels of potatoes; the wool consumed requires the fleeces of 10,000
sheep each week ; while to all these are to be added the food and
clothing of 5300 operatives, and their dependants (at least twice as
many more), and the items of transportation of raw material and
manufactured products.

The company has never ceased its care for the welfare of its opera-
tives, and their improvement morally and intellectually. It early
founded a library, with reading-rooms, which contains nearly seven
thousand volumes, and is open to the work-people and their families,
and has actually ^n average of seven hundred daily readers. It has
established a relief society for work-people temporarily ill, to which
the operatives and the company contribute, as well as a " Home," or
hospital, provided with physicians and matrons, where those seriously
ill can be better provided for than in the boarding-houses of the com-
pany, or even in their own homes. As the result of this recognition
by the company of its moral responsibilities, there has been no dispo-
sition on the part of its operatives to organize strikes, all difficulties
which have arisen having been amicably arranged. This moral work
of the company was suitably recognized at the Paris Exposition of
1867, by the tribute to the company of one of the ten awards granted,
among five hundred contestants, to the individuals or associations
" who in a series of years had accomplished the most to secure har-

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, 6$

mony between employers and their work-people, and most successfully
advanced their material, intellectual, and moral welfare."

This mill has been selected as illustrative of our highest achieve-
ments in the department to which it belongs. We would by no
means have it inferred that its products are superior to those of mills
of less magnitude. The Manchester Mills, with an annual product
of dress goods of 250,000 pieces of fifty yards each ; the Hamilton
Woolen Company, with a product of 800,000 pieces, and the Wash-
ington Mills, with a product of 2,000,000 pieces, manufacture worsted
fabrics of no less excellence. It is due to the last establishment to
say, that it was the first in this country to manufacture certain all-
wool dress fabrics formerly obtained exclusively from France. Some
of these fabrics which it was the first to introduce, such as the all-wool
matelasses, are made not only by this establishment, but by Messrs.
Martin Landenberger & Co. and Thomas Dolan & Co., of Philadel
phia, and have high repute in our markets.

A very important class of dress fabrics was not undertaken in this
country until 1872, — that of black alpacas, mohairs, and brilliantines.
It was. not long since, believed that these goods could not be success-
fully made elsewhere than in Bradford, England. The Arlington
Mills, of Lawrence, Massachusetts, were the first in this country to
overcome the difficulties of this fabrication, and have since made a
specialty of this branch of manufacture; these goods forming a large
part of their annual production of five million yards. The black
alpacas, mohairs, and brilliantines exhibited in great variety by this
company, as well as by the Farr Alpaca Company, of Holyoke, were
fabrics equal in all respects to the productions of the best manufac-
turers in the old-established seats of the worsted-industry in Europe.

Reference must be made to other worsted fabrics not included in
the category of dress goods.

The manufacture of lastings, which are made from long-combing
wools of English blood, has until recently been regarded as an exclu-
sive English monopoly, and the English lastings at the Exhibition
well sustained their traditional reputation. All attempts in this
country failed until after 1867, when the Lowell Manufacturing Com-
pany first successfully achieved the fabrication of this article. They
were followed by the Peacedale Manufacturing Company, of Rhode
Island, and others ; and at present the American shoe-manufacturers
are largely supplied by lastings of domestic production.

Before the late war, English bunting, made like lastings of long-
combing wools, formed the sole material for our national flags. The
United States Bunting Company, of Lowell, first successfully achieved

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66 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

the manufacture of bunting. Its exhibits at Philadelphia showed not
only excellent fabrics in bunting and moreens, but a marked improve-
ment in the construction of the national flags.

In tapestries and upholstery stuffs of worsted or worsted mixed
with cotton and silk, there was but one prominent American exhibi-
tion,— that made by Messrs. Kelty 8c Co., of New York; but this, in
tastefulness of design and excellence of fabrication, Was encouraging
as to our future success in this attractive department

CLASS 239. — Carpets, Rugs, etc. — Brussels, Wilton, Tapestry

Brussels, and Velvets, Axminster, Venetian, Ingrain, Felted

Carpets, Druggets, Rugs, etc.

Among the surroundings of our homes there are none which bring
so palpably before our eyes the arts of design of remote centuries and
distant peoples as carpets. Originating in Persia at a period almost
on the verge of history, and among a people of the ancient Aryan
stock, among whose descendants in the centre, south, and east of that
country are found the present chief seats of the textile industry of
Persia, the carpet-manufacture was carried from thence to India, and
to Arabia and Turkey. Carpets were introduced into Europe by the
Crusades. Their manufacture in Europe was first undertaken in
France, under the patronage of Henry IV. ; and the manufacturing
of carpets, under royal patronage, was founded at Beauvais, by Col-
bert, and still exists. Carpets in Europe, like china or porcelain,
descended to the homes of the people from palaces, and the influence
of original designs for royal establishments may still be seen in the
gorgeous patterns of French carpets.

There were ample opportunities at the Exhibition for studying this,
the most attractive department in the whole range of the textile in-
dustry, as it is the only one in which the arts of design have still un
restricted sway, and where the value of the fabric is controlled mainly
by artistic considerations. Persia, India, Turkey, France, Germany,
Austria, England, Scotland, and the United States, each exhibited its
characteristic fabrics, and no important national product or variety of
fabric in this department was without representation. We will briefly
refer to the different national products, arranging them in the order of
t'heir origin, and availing ourselves of the artistic suggestions of Red-
grave, Dresser, and Major R. Murdock Smith, under the light of
whose illustrations they were observed.

The carpets of Persia first claim notice, specimens of which were
supplied by Messrs. Sloane, of New York, our observation having
been enlarged by a study of Persian carpets and rugs directlyiniported

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. 67

by them, making a museum of Persian art in this department not
surpassed by the collection at Kensington.

The Persian carpets, or rather rugs, are made chiefly in Kurdistan,
Khorassan, Feraghan, and Kerman (our principal authority for these
statements being the notes on Persian art by Major R. Murdock
Smith, R.E.), each district producing a distinctive kind in texture and
style. The finest are those of Kurdistan. In these carpets the pattern
does not represent flowers, bouquets, or other objects, thrown up in
relief from a uniform ground, like so many of the inappropriate de-
signs of Europe, but looks more like a layer of flowers strewn on the
ground, or a field of wild-flowers in spring. The borders are always
well marked, and usually of brighter colors than the centre.

Besides the ordinary " Kali," or pile carpet, others called " Do-ru"
are made at Kurdistan. These are smooth, without pile, and alike on
both sides, and are used in traveling for spreading upon the ground.

The carpets of Feraghan resemble those of Kurdistan in style,
although the texture is looser and the pattern simpler. They are,
consequently, cheaper and in more general use. Fine Kurdistan
carpets cost from three to four pounds per square yard. The Fera-
ghan carpets cost from fifteen to eighteen shillings.

The Khorassan carpets are somewhat superior in texture to those
of Feraghan, but the patterns are usually more realistic. Kerman
carpets are next in value to those of Kurdistan, but the designs are
usually still more realistic than those of Khorassan. Besides flowers,
figures of men and animals are not uncommon.

According to Major Smith, the carpets of every description are
made without even the simplest machinery, the loom being simply a
frame on which the work is stretched. The woof consists of short
threads woven into the warp by the fingers, without a shuttle. When
a row of the woof is thus completed, a sort of comb is inserted into
the warp and pressed or hammered against the loose rows of woof
yarns until they are sufficiently tightened to the rest of the web.
The pile is formed by merely clipping the ends of the woof until an
even surface is obtained. The weaver sits with the reversed side of
the web towards him ; so that he depends solely upon his memory
for the formation of the pattern.

The Persian carpets are usually somewhat long and narrow, — a
form adopted because more easily woven, while it is adapted to the
usual narrow dimensions of the Persian houses. The space for car-
pets on the floor of these Persian apartments is still further narrowed
by the habit of laying strips of felt at the upper end and along the
sides of the room, the narrow carpet occupying the middle space.

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68 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

The spreading of Oriental rugs upon plain felt carpets, now some-
what in vogue, is an unconscious adoption of Persian fashions.

In an artistic point of view, the Persian carpets show an excellence
so marked that the educated observer cannot have a moment's doubt
as to their superiority over all other Oriental products of their class.
They are distinguished by their subdued tones and the harmonies of
their various colors. Various as they are, there are certain forms
repeated in all designs, so that the national characteristics are clearly
marked to those familiar with them.

Indian carpets (some beautiful specimens of which were shown in
the Exhibition) are made in large single pieces adapted for covering
floors of considerable space. Those exhibited, remarkably illustrated
the characteristics of design pointed out by Mr. Redgrave. They
had a great variety of colors, but so evenly distributed, and each so
well balanced by its complementary and harmonizing hue, that the
general effect was rich and agreeable. The effect at a distance was a
somewhat foxy tone, in consequence of the free admission of warm
neutrals, as brown and brownish purple ; white and yellow are but
sparingly introduced to define the geometrical arrangement of the
forms. The forms consisted largely of highly conventionalized flowers
and plant motives, all geometrically constructed. These carpets were
much more agreeable in tone than the real Turkey carpets at present
so much in vogue.

The Turkish or Smyrna carpets, which were well illustrated, in the
best specimens are generally designed with a flat (that is, without
perspective) border of flowers of the natural size, and with a centre
of larger plant-forms conventionalized, often to such an extent as to
obscure the forms. The colors are negative shades of a medium or
half tint, as regards light, and tending rather to dark, with scarcely
any contrast, and therefore a little sombre in character. Three hues
largely pervade the surface, — green, red, and blue. These are not
pure, but negative, so that the general effect is cool, though rich.
These remarks refer to the best types of the Smyrna carpets. There
are others, especially such as are now so extensively imported and
sold at auction in our principal cities, which are marked by violent
contrasts, — a predominance of yellows and harsh violets. This de-
terioration may be accounted for by the fact that many carpets are
now made in special manufactories, and that the modern carpets do
not exhibit the traditional and inherited taste found in the ancient
household fabrication.

It is certain that by far the best specimens of the pure Turkish style
are found in what are called the Smyrna styles, made in large estab-

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, 69

lishments in Germany and the Netherlands. Among them, the large
carpets and smaller rugs made by the Royal Carpet Company of
Deventer, Netherlands, were conspicuous for the taste of their designs,
and chasteness as well as richness of color. Nothing more fitting for
the repose of a library could be desired than one of these carpets.
As they are made by hand, the high price of labor in this country
will not admit of their fabrication here. In looking at the best types
of all the Oriental carpets, we cannot fail to be struck with the wisdom
displayed by the Orientals in adopting negative tones for decorating
the floors of their apartments. No people exhibit greater richness of
upholstery and costume than those of Persia and India. In the sub-
dued colors of their carpets, they have adopted the best means for
enhancing and supporting the splendors of their furniture and the
richness of their personal decorations.

The French carpets were represented by magnificent Axminsters,
woven for large rooms, in a single piece. The most conspicuous was
one representing a wonderful exuberance of tropical forms, in birds,
flowers, and foliage ; this fabric admitting the employment of an un-
limited variety of hues, tones, and shades. The spectator, however,
could not fail to be impressed with the thought that it was better fitted
to be hung, as it was, as a drapery for a vast hall, than to be seen
horizontally, and trodden under foot. This same impression was
given by the Aubusson carpets, than which no fabric of wool can be
intrinsically more perfect as works of art. They are, in fact, but
tapestries for floors, and are fitted only for palaces or rooms decorated
and furnished in the luxurious style of the Renaissance, Even here
they would seem to detract from the splendors of paintings and deco-
rations adorning the walls. It seems difficult to eradicate the old
ideas of florid decoration from French designers. It is a curious fact
that the English now find in France the readiest sale for carpets
designed under the influence of the modern English schools of art.

It would be useless to describe what is so well known, — the char-
acter of English and Scotch Jacquard Brussels, Wilton tapestry, and
Axminster carpets exhibited, and it would be presumptuous to praise
them. It is enough to say that they, as a matter of course, proved
themselves to be, in texture and design, the worthiest models for our
own manufacturers to imitate, and, if possible, to surpass. The ob-
server could not fail to be amused by the singular mistake made by
some of the largest English exhibitors, in displaying fabrics designed
for adaptation to their own conceptions of American tastes. They
seem not to have been aware that representations of lions, tigers, archi-
tectural panels, and huge bouquets are as offensive to the American

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70 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

as to the English educated eye. Recognizing this mistake, an eminent
English carpet-manufacturer remarked to one of our own at the Ex-
hibition, " We seem to be playing at cross-purposes ; while we are
manufacturing for the supposed American taste, you manufacture for
our own."

The carpet-manufacture of the United States has become so charac-
teristic a feature of the American textile industry, that this report
would be incomplete without a brief sketch of the steps by which it
has reached its vast development. In the middle of the last century,
a carpet was regarded as a curiosity in our most luxurious city of that
period, Philadelphia; but, as early as 1791, a carpet-manufactory was
established by Mr. William Sprague, which attracted so much atten-
tion as to induce Mr. Hamilton, in his famous report on manufactures,
of that date, to recommend a duty on imported carpets, as an encour-
agement to home industry. The census of 1 8 10 has been referred to
as an authority for the statement that, in that year, 9984 yards of
carpet and coverlid, worth JI7500, were made in Philadelphia. The
value indicates either the small proportion of carpets made or their
very low value. No exact dates ae to the further extension of this
manufacture appear until 1825, at which time it seems that Mr. Alex-
ander Wright, a native of Scotland, — who with others had previously
started a small establishment for making carpets in Medway, Massa-
chusetts,— visited a small carpet-factory in Philadelphia to learn the
mysteries of the art. Meeting with no success, he went to Scotland,
where he purchased looms, with which he returned to this country,
accompanied by Glaude and William Wilson, who were employed by
him to aid in operating his machinery, and who subsequently made
considerable improvements in the Jacquard attachments to carpet-
looms. The location of the works not being favorable, the property
was sold to Mr. Frederick Cabot and Mr. Patrick T. Jackson, well
known as among the founders of the cotton-manufacture of New Eng-
land. In 1828, Messrs. Cabot & Jackson sold the mill and machinery
at Medway to the Lowell Manufacturing Company, which had been
recently organized for the manufacture of carpets and cotton goods,
the carpet machinery in the mean time being kept in operation until
the mill at Lowell was completed. It should be observed that carpet-
weaving at Medway, as well as tliat first undertaken at Lowell, was
done on hand-looms.

It is within the personal recollection of the writer, that at about
this time the manufacture of ingrain carpets was undertaken at Great
Falls, in New Hampshire, by power, the apparatus for making the
figure automatically being a large cylinder or drum, upon which pins

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, yi

or blocks were placed corresponding to the pattern to be woven, the
cylinder operating like that of a music-box. This apparatus was also
used at Little Falls, in New Jersey. This, as well as other automatic
devices tried elsewhere, was finally abandoned, as operating less favor-
ably than the hand-loom. In 1844 the hand-loom, both in Europe
and this country, was universally used for making carpets.

The system was revolutionized by an American invention, which
marks the period of its introduction as the most important epoch in
the whole history of the carpet-manufacture. Mr. E. B. Bigelow, of
Boston, Massachusetts, in 1842, conceived a series of devices for
making the carpet-loom automatic, so that the costly labor of men
might be dispensed with, and the whole process of weaving might be
conducted by women or boys. After applying in vain to several par-
ties engaged in the manufacture for the pecuniary means necessary
for the costly experiment which he proposed, he succeeded in gain-
ing the attention of Mr. George W. Lyman, treasurer of the Lowell
Manufacturing Company, through whose influence the construction
of an establishment with the newly-invented machinery was under-
taken by the company, at a cost of many hundred thousand dollars.
Mr. Bigelow was also seconded by Mr. Wright, the superintendent of
the company, in the practical details of the adaptation of the inven-
tion. In 1845 the successful weaving of ingrain carpets by power
had been demonstrated at Lowell, and its ultimate general use had
become a fixed necessity of the manufacture.

Since this successful experiment at Lowell, the manufacture of
ingrain carpets in this country has been marked by a constantly
extending development. The inaportant establishment at Thomson-
ville, Connecticut, now known as the Hartford Carpet Company, which
used hand-looms concurrently with the Lowell Company, adopted
Mr. Bigelow's invention. Each of these two is unsurpassed by any
in the world making similar products, in the amount of production
and excellence of fabrics ; while many more recent and smaller estab-
lishments have their special excellences of fabric.

The patents for the inventions of weaving Jacquard Brussels and
Wilton carpets, although offered to the Lowell Company, were not
accepted, and it became necessary, finally, for Mr. Bigelow to utilize
his own inventions. The result was the establishment of a factory at
Clintonville, now Clinton, Massachusetts, in 1848, which was operated
with success; and ultimately, of the organization, in 1854, of the
Bigelow Carpet Company, which became the possessor of the works
and franchise of the concern just mentioned. This establishment, the
growth of more than a quarter of a century, is now the largest in the

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72 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

world for the manufacture of Jacquard Brussels and Wilton carpets,
m which the several processes of worsted spinning, dyeing, and
weaving are united in one concern.

The American claim to the honor of this achievement of inventing
the power-loom for, weaving Jacquard Brussels and Wilton carpets is
fixed by foreign recognition. The supplementary report of the jury
at the World's Fair in London, 185 1, where the inventor's carpets
were exhibited, says, —

" The specimens of Brussels carpeting exhibited by Mr. Bigelow,
woven by a power-loom invented and patented by him, are better and
more perfectly woven than any hand-loom goods that have come under
the notice of the jury. This, however, is but a small part of their
merit, or rather that of Mr. Bigelow, who has completely triumphed
over the numerous obstacles that presented themselves, and succeeded
in substituting steam-power for manual labor in the manufacture of
fine-frame Brussels carpets. Several patents have been taken out by
different inventors in this country [Great Britain] for effecting the
same object. But as yet none of them have been brought into suc-
cessful or extensive operation ; and the honor of this achievement,
one of great practical difficulty as well as of great commercial value,
must be awarded to a native of the United States."

Axminster carpets, adapted only for the most luxurious use, until
recently made exclusively in France and England, arc still woven in
those countries on hand-looms. A patent for weaving these carpets
by power, the invention of Alexander Smith and Halcyon Skinner,
of New York, was granted in 1856. On account of the civil war,
and the destruction by fire of the establishment where the invention
was first applied, it did not come into considerable use before 1867,
when the factory was rebuilt and the machinery set at work. The
product of the establishment under the proprietorship of Alexander
Smith & Sons is about 200,000 yards ^ year, — an amount believed to
be equal to the entire annual production of the same kind of goods
in France, and more than is made in Great Britain. One of these
power-looms, attended by one competent woman, will produce in a
day an amount equal to the product of ten English or French hand-
looms, attended by as many men. The loom is not adapted for weav-
ing the wide, single-piece carpets made in the foreign hand-looms; but
this inconvenience is almost wholly obviated by the perfect selvage
and matching of the figures of the narrow pieces, which may also be
applied to floors of any dimensions.

Tapestry carpets, known as tapestry Brussels and tapestry velvets,
form a very important branch of the carpet-manufacture of England

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. GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, 73

and the United States. This style of carpet, of quite recent inven-
tion, is particularly adapted to the popular demand for brilliant effects
at moderate prices, for there is no form of carpet in which so good
an appearance can be secured at so low a cost. In all other carpets
the yarns are dyed. The principle of the fabrication of these carpets
consists in printing the colors upon the warps in such a manner that
when the warps are woven they form the desired figure. In this
style of carpet the room for the application of color and design is
unlimited.

The method of printing the warps, which constitutes the essential
feature of the tapestry carpets, was the invention of Mr. Whitock,
of Edinburgh, Scotland, about 1838. The invention met with little
success until the right to apply it in England was secured by Mr.
John Crossley, of Halifax, England, about 1842. With his charac-
teristic energy and skill he made the fabrication a perfect success, and
the establishment founded by him still makes the largest production
of this fabric of any in the world.

In 1846, Mr. John Johnsori, an Englishman, educated in Crossley's
establishment, and who had himself put up the first machinery for
this branch of fabrication at Halifax, came to this country,.and estab-
lished the manufacture of tapestry carpets at Newark, New Jersey, run-
ning about twenty-five hand-looms. He was facilitated in his enterprise
here by the fact that Whitock had taken out no patents in this coun-
try. Mr. Johnson subsequently removed his establishment to Troy,
New York, where the manufacture was carried on for two or three
years under his direction, though not in his name. In the autumn
of 1855 the machinery was purchased by a company, of which Mr.
M. H. Simpson was the principal stockholder, and removed to Rox-
bury, Massachusetts, in 1856. The great inventive power of Mr.
Simpson, seconded by the experience of Mr. Johnson, has secured for
the Roxbury Carpet Company the prominence in this manufacture
displayed by its beautiful fabrics at the Exhibition. This company
has by no means the monopoly of this manufacture in this country.
Its claims for excellence are contested by Messrs. Higgins & Co., of
New York; Alexander Smith & Sons, of Yonkers ; Stephen Sanford,
of Amsterdam, New Jersey; Messrs. Dobson, of Philadelphia; and
others.

The progress made in the manufacture since its first introduction is
remarkable. The product of the first hand-looms was but five yards
per loom per day. In 1856 the product of the Roxbury Carpet Com-
pany for each loom per day was sixteen yards. At present the aver-
age product of each of the one hundred and fourteen looms employed

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74 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

is forty-nine and a half yards per day. This is largely due to the in-
vention of the power-loom of Mr. Bigelow, the principles of whose
inventions are applied in weaving these fabrics.

Particular reference has hitherto been made only to the carpet-
manufacture of New England and New York, which is characterized
by its few vast establishments. The city of Philadelphia, alone, sur-
passes all other parts of the country combined in the extent and
variety of the carpets which issue from its looms. A prominent
characteristic of the Philadelphia manufacture is the diffusion of
the industry in small establishments. Philadelphia, with its cheap
homes, its abundant and cheap market, and the faculty which it seems
to possess above all other cities of appropriating the talents of the
artisans who resort to it, is the paradise of the skilled workman.
There, as nowhere else in this country, the loom of the handicraft
carpet-weaver still finds abundant occupation through the smaller
manufacturers, who employ his skill, and furnish the raw material to
be worked up by the weaver and his family in their own houses. The
carpet-manufacture of Philadelphia is distinguished for its success in
making sightly and useful carpets out of cheap materials, adapted for
the most modest homes, and its carpet-makers are among the few
American manufacturers who have been able to profitably export
their products.

While small establishments form the rule in the carpet-manufacture
of this city, there is one under an individual proprietorship of compara-
tively recent foundation, — that of Messrs. John & James Dobson. —
which employs between two and three thousand workmen, principally
in carpets. There are also notable exceptions to the general rule
of manufacturing the cheaper products, Messrs. McCallum, Crease, &
Sloane having exhibited ingrain carpets of the highest class (which,
in design and fabrication, compared favorably with the best in the
Exhibition), and the Messrs. Bromley, Venetian carpets illustrating the
best merits of that class.

We have not attempted, in any other department, to exhibit the
present amount of production; but the carpet- manufacture is so prom-
inent a feature of our textile industry that we have taken pains to
obtain, from original sources, the amount of production in 1875.

The Carpet Association of Philadelphia has furnished Mr. Lorin
Blodgett, for his work on the industries of that city, the statistics of
its carpet- manufacture in 1875. The report for 1875 claims the total
value of the carpets manufactured in that city to be $ig<ooo<ooo, and
that the increase of machinery since 1869, in the form of mills, steam-
power looms, etc., was more than one hundred per cent. Returns

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. y^

furnished to us by the following establishments outside of Phila-
delphia, viz., the Bigelow Carpet Company, the Hartford Carpet Com-
pany, E. S. Higgins & Co., the Lowell Manufacturing Company, and
the Roxbury Carpet Company, show that the actual value of carpets
made by these companies was $11,126,168. We feel authorized in
estimating the product of other mills out of Philadelphia, not
enumerated, at $2,000,000.

RfeSUMfe OF AMERICAN PRODUCT IN 1875.

In Philadelphia |il9,ooo,ooo

Other mills enumerated , 11,376,168

Not enumerated 2,cxx),ooo

Total value of American production of carpets in 1875 • 1^32,376,168

The principal exhibitors of American carpets, by displaying them
together in a series of alcoves, made their united exhibits in this de-
partment unusually imposing, and the proofs of our attainments in
this manufacture were observed with no little surprise. It was mani-
fest, from the absence of rival foreign exhibitors, that, in respect to the
carpets of the cheaper and medium qualities, up to two- and three-ply
ingrains, the competition is confined to our own manufacturers. Even
rival English manufacturers generously admitted that, in the produc-
tion of Jacquard Brussels, tapestries, Wiltons, and narrow Axminsters,
we have nothing to learn from them either in design or fabrication.

CLASS 240. — Hair, Alpaca, Goat*s Hair, and other Fabrics,

MIXED OR unmixed WITH WoOL.

Of the materials other than wool proper composing fabrics, but
ranked with it because possessing the same general properties, the
first in value is the product of the goat of Thibet, commonly called
the Cashmere goat,— a distinct variety inhabiting the elevated regions
north of the Himalayas. This variety, whose origin is obscure, has
affinities with the Angora race. Its size is quite large. The horns
are flattened, straight, and black, and slightly divergent at the ex-
tremities. The ears are large, flat, and pendent. The exterior fleece
or hair, which is long, silky, and lustrous, is divided on the back, and
falls down upon the flanks in wavy masses. Beneath the hair, there
is developed in autumn a short and exceedingly fine down, called
pusAm, from which the cashmere shawls are fabricated. The quan-
tity of pushm obtained from a single animal is quite small, never ex-
ceeding one hundred and eight grammes, and usually much less, to
the individual. The separation of the kemp or coarse hair from the

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76 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

pushm, which is indispensable for making the shawl-yarns, is a work
of great Ubor. The raw or unprepared pushm, it is said, costs in
India about seventy-five cents per pound ; but the labor of separating
the kemp, at the low rate of four cents a day, is so great as to bring
the cost of the pure pushm up to seven or eight dollars per pound.

Well-arranged specimens of the pushm, as well as magnificent
samples of the shawls fabricated from this material, were shown in
the India collections. One in the Exhibition, imported by an English
house, was valued at J5i 137. The prices of shawls, actually of Indian
fabrication, descend as low as $20. The inferior shawls are made
in Kerman, in Persia, as well as in India, from the material called
" koork," proceeding from a particular kind of white goat, distinct
from the Thibetian animal. Numerous flocks of these goats are kept
at Kerman. They are cultivated in the same manner as the Merinos
formerly were in Spain, being transhutnant, — or feeding in the valleys
in winter, and on the distant mountain-plateaus in summer. A large
part of the Kerman koork is annually exported to Upper India, where
it is manufactured into false India shawls. It is the koork, and not
the pure cashmere pushm, as is commonly supposed, which forms the
material of the richest of the Persian carpets, a magnificent specimen
of which is in the collection of the Boston Art Museum; and an
inferior one from Khorassan, now in Messrs. Sloane's warehouse in
New York, although but six feet by four in size, is valued at ^275.

The fabrication of cashmere shawls in Europe has been attempted
only by the French. The peculiar Indian texture called ** espouline"
was perfectly achieved in Paris in 1834, four thousand workmen being
employed, while some four hundred goats were imported from Thibet.
But it was found that the raw material, expensive as it is, formed not
more than one-tenth of the cost of a shawl ; that the French workman
could not compete with the Indian weaver, working at less than one-
fifth of his wages ; and that ladies of fashion would pay twice as much
for a genuine India shawl as for a French article really superior in
texture and design. The manufacture has, therefore, been abandoned.
Since the monopoly of the East India Company has ceased, the French
have reconciled themselves to the loss of this manufacture by making
Paris the principal entrepot in Europe of the India shawl trade. The
inferior pushm or koork, from which the kemp is not separated, is at
present largely used by the French in the fabrication of cashmere
dress fabrics.

The next analogous material, in value and importance, occupying
the place of wool, is mohair, — the product of the Angora goat. As
this material could not be properly discussed under the head of wool,

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. 77

in the first part of this report, — while it is rapidly becoming an im-
portant object of American production, — it may not inappropriately
receive consideration in this connection.

The Angora goat (descended, as proved by modern naturalists,
from a distinct wild species of Thibet, — the Falconer's goat, Caprus
FaUoneri), it is supposed, was carried by the migration of pastoral
tribes from Thibet, in the eleventh and thirteenth centuries, to the
country in Asia Minor near Angora, — the ancient Ancyra, — where
they principally abound, and from which the recent diffusion has
taken place. Their existence was not made known to Europe until
1655, and the first full description of them was given by the celebrated
botanist Tournefort, the master of Linnaeus. But so little was popu-
larly known of them, that some of the old dictionaries define mohair
as the hair of a Turkish dog. The chief supply for commerce still
comes from Asia Minor, the country being in the Turkish territory.
The superbly mounted specimens of these animals in the Turkish
department must be remembered by all visitors at the Exhibition.

The many attempts made to acclimate the Angora goat in various
parts of Europe have met with signal failure, the generally prevailing
moist climate being unlike that of their native habitat. The first im-
portation into the United States, consisting of eight animals from
Asia Minor, was made in 1849, by Dr. J. P. Davis. Other importa-
tions were made by Mr. Diehl. These and their descendants were
distributed principally in the Southern States. Mr. Winthrop W.
Chenery, of Belmont, Massachusetts, an eminent merchant and stock-
raiser, imported about three hundred pure-blood animals, and intro-
duced the first full-blooded animals of this race into California. Mr.
A. Eutichides, a native of Greece, came to this country from Asia
Minor in 1869, bringing a flock of Angora goats with him. A part
of this flock was sent to California; the rest of the flock, numbering
fifty-four, in 1875, is now in the possession of Mr. F. S. Fulmer, of
Spring Mills, Appomattox County, Virginia, and has been kept per
fectly pure. A flock of several thousand pure and grade animals of
this race is upon an island in California, and several thousand are
stated to be scattered through Oregon. The acclimation of the race,
so difficult elsewhere, has been perfectly accomplished in the compara-
tively dry climate of this country, especially in the high regions of the
South and the interior. The only obstacle to success is the greedi-
ness of breeders, who are too apt to sell grade animals for breeding
purposes. It is only by the constant use of absolutely pure bucks
that merchantable mohair can be procured. For further information
on this subject the reader is referred to a monograph on the Angora
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78 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

Goat, its Origin, Culture, and Products, by the writer, published in vol.
xi. of the Proceedings of the Boston Natural History Society, and in
vol. vi. of the United States Reports of the Exposition at Paris, of i86y.
Mohair, the fleece of the Angora goat, is not a mere substitute for
wool, but occupies its own place in the textile fabrics. It has the
aspect, feel, and lustre of silk, without its suppleness. It differs ma-
terially from wool in the want of the felting quality; so that the stuffs
made of it have the fibres distinctly separated, and are always bril-
liant. On account of the stiffness of the fibre, it is rarely woven
alone ; that is, when it is used for the filling, the warp is usually of
cotton, silk, or wool, or the reverse. The distinguishing qualities of
the fibre are lustre, elasticity, and wonderful durability. The qualities
of lustre and durability, particularly, fit this material for its chief use,
— the manufacture of Utrecht velvets, commonly called "furniture
plush,'* the finest qualities of which are composed principally of mo-
hair, the pile being formed of mohair warps, which are cut in the
same manner as silk warps in velvet. Upon passing the finger lightly
over the best Utrecht velvets, the rigidity and elasticity of the fibre
will be distinctly perceived. The fibre springs back to its original
uprightness when the pressure is removed. The best mohair plushes
are almost indestructible, and are now in general use by all the prin-
cipal railroads, as the most enduring of all coverings for railroad
seats. The English have attained the greatest success in spinning
mohair, and the French and German manufacturers use English yarns.
In the manufacture of Utrecht velvets, the city of Amiens, in France,
holds a marked precedence, and the plushes exhibited by her manu-
facturers, in Philadelphia, of all hues, plain and figured, well sustained
her reputation. Another analogous application of mohair is for form-
ing the pile of imitation seal-skins. Some of these fabrics, exhibited
by manufacturers of Huddersfield, England, were of special beauty,
the resemblance to real fur being quite striking. Admirable imita-
tions in mohair of the Astrakhan lamb-skin furs were exhibited by
the same manufacturers. Similar goods, made by one of our asso
ciate Judges, Dr. Weigert, — who, by his position, was precluded from
an award, — received high commendation. Mohair forms an essential
material in the best carriage and lap robes, with a long and lustrous
pile. Some exhibited were made to resemble the skins of tigers,
leopards, and other animals ; and others were printed. Among the
last, some made by a manufacturer in Sandford, Maine, were con-
spicuous for excellent texture and design. Another application of
mohair is for the fabrication of braids for binding, which have the
lustre of silk, but far greater durability. Excellent specimens of this

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, yg

fabrication were exhibited by T. M. Dale, of Newark, New Jersey.
Still another important application of this material is in the fabrication
of black dress goods, resembling alpacas, the mohair being woven
with cotton warps. They are called mohair lustres, or brilliantines.
Beautiful exhibits of this admirable fabric were made by the Arlington
Mills and the Farr Alpaca Company. Mohair is also used in France
in the manufacture of laces, which are substituted for the silk laces
of Valenciennes and Chantilly. These, however, do not come within
the consideration of this group.

The soft fibre of the vicuna of South America, composing fabrics
which are peculiarly agreeable in feel, was exhibited in very pleasing
shawls made by English and California manufacturers. But the most
interesting of the new fabrics were the cloths made of camel's down,
which have recently come into extensive use in Russia.

The Roumianstoff Cloth Manufactory of General Siloverstoff, situ-
ated in the Volga Province of Russia, exhibited beautiful plaids,
blankets, and other tissues, adapted for the most luxurious consump-
tion, manufactured from picked camel's hair and goat's down. These
products find a ready sale in Paris. More interesting still was a stout
and leather-like, though soft, cloth, without nap, made from a mixture
of Merino, Russian, and Kirghese wool, with camel's down, called
" half-merino." This is dyed a pale yellow tint, and finds an exten-
sive sale among the Asiatic tribes under the name oi jeltiak. These
tribes, from time immemorial, have dressed in yellow cloth made
exclusively of undyed camel's hair. The appearance of a dyed cloth
in which the camel's hair was mixed with wool, acquiring greater
strength, yet having the same color, has caused the Asiatics to sub-
stitute the jeltiak for the original camel's-hair fabric. This cloth has
now great repute among the Caucasian Armenians, and the Persians
living on the coasts of the Caspian Sea. The success of this manu-
facture is in a measure due to the invention of a particular apparatus
by means of which the soft and downy parts are separated from the
fleeces of coarse Siberian and Kirghese sheep and goats, the down of
the Siberian goat producing stuffs remarkable for their softness and
lightness.

The celebrated Montagnac coatings, first made in France about
twenty years ago by processes patented by the inventor whose name
they bear, had beautiful illustrations at the Exhibition, from Sedan.
They are sometimes called cloth-velvets. The pile of the surface is
usually furnished by fibres of cashmere wool, incorporated in the
yams of the fabric, and they are straight and perpendicular to the
surface, the cloth having the aspect of a silk-velvet, but with a softness

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8o INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

peculiar to the cashmere fibre. The pile is developed on the surface
by battage^ or beating the moistened cloth with elastic rods.

Formerly, only the long hair of the cashmere goat and camel were
used, besides wool, for making pile fabrics. In 1850, Mr. Benjamin
Crosland, of Huddersfield, England, invented or rediscovered a process
by which the short hairs of the cow and calf could be used in the
manufacture of imitation seal-skins. The mean feature of his process
consisted in boiling the fabrics for a long time in water, which devel-
ops the lustre of the fibre. These fabrics were for a long time im-
ported into the United States under the pretence that they contained
no wool, being thus subjected to a less duty. A rigorous microscopic
examination by the National Academy of Sciences, made quite re-
cently, under the direction of the Secretary of the Treasury, seems
to have established the fact that the short hairs of the cow and calf
are spun with at least enough wool to carry the fibre, — a successful
spinning seeming otherwise impracticable. The cow-hair seal-skins,
which are an important specialty in England, were illustrated by beau-
tiful specimens at the Exhibition.

Another animal product, which is not strictly a textile fibre, because
it cannot be spun like those above referred to, must be considered in
this connection, — that is, horse-hair, the material of the fabric ordi-
narily known as " haircloth." This material, as a covering for furni-
ture, a century ago was held in high consideration. The wife of
Benjamin Franklin, describing the furniture of her mansion in Phila-
delphia, says it was covered with black haircloth, "as handsome as
padisoy* (Padua silk). Modern fashion has driven this material from
fashionable drawing-rooms, but its durability still causes it to be re-
tained in unambitious apartments. There were two conspicuous ex-
hibits of this material. Ranking first in elegance was an exhibit made
by Edward Webb & Son, Worcester, England. These haircloths were
woven in stripes of rich blues, scarlets, and crimsons, with whites, and
in simple but rich colors, brocaded and figured. They possessed all
the elegance which could be given to this material, and for certain
purposes, as for summer apartments and houses in tropical regions,
possess adaptations found in no other upholstery materials.

The Pawtucket Haircloth Company, of Rhode Island, made an
exhibit of this fabric, the peculiarity of which was that it is the result
of the first successful weaving of haircloth by power, the hand-loom
being, so far as known, used by all other manufacturers of this fabric
at home or abroad. The success of the company referred to is due
to their achievement of the work of picking up, and applying auto-
matically, each individual hair which is to compose the texture of a

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, 8 1

hair filling, interlaced by a warp of cotton thread. This is accom-
plished by a little machine which could be packed in a box two inches
square. This machine, which is detachable for repairs, is attached to
a loom, both the machine and loom being operated by power, and it
forms the pivot upon which the whole manufacture turns. It is essen-
tial that the machine should pick up but one hair at a time. To ac-
complish this, the picker in the machine has a groove or slit invisible
to the naked eye, so that the whole of this manufacture turns upon
a point which can only be seen with a microscope. The loom is so
adjusted that the movement of the web is arrested until the picker
lifts up its hair. The end of the hair is seized by a rod, the end of
which operates like a thumb and finger, and is carried transversely
between the warps. This little apparatus is attached to four hundred
distinct looms in the establishment of the company. One girl tends
ten looms, and this one girl, by means of this machinery, does the
work requiring twenty operatives on hand-looms. By means of these
appliances, this single establishment, employing only 150 work-people,
produces 600,000 yards of haircloth per annum, each loom weaving
five yards per day. It consumes annually 450,000 pounds of horse-
hair, equivalent to the tails of 600,000 horses. The large exhibit
showed the unquestionable superiority of the machine-made goods to
the ordinary hand-loom fabrics.

All the classes assigned to the Judges of this group, in the depart-
ment of wool, have now been considered, except that of wool ma-
chinery. While all the varieties of wool fabrics were well illustrated,
the wool machinery exhibited but very few of the modern appliances
by which the fabrics are made. The fullest description of the ma-
chines exhibited would give but a faint idea of the improved machines
now in use. To describe even those exhibited would require space
and means not at our disposal, and would be unsuited to the popular
object of these reports.

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82 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

SILK AND SILK FABRICS.

BY JOHN L. HAYES.

Silk with its fabrics, by the value of the raw material, correspond-
ing to an equal weight of silver, its tenacity equal to that of iron, and
its lustre surpassed only by that of the precious metals and stones ;
by the splendor of its fabrics, their relations to the decorative arts,
their influence upon painting, heraldry, and the ceremonies of the
church, their place as a means of exchange in early commerce, and
the correspondence of their production in Western Europe with the
decline of Oriental power, — would seem to claim a more extended
notice than we have given to the homelier fibre and fabrics which
have thus far occupied our attention. But the popular interest attach-
ing to silk and its fabrics has made knowledge of the subject so
general that we could hope to add little to the common stock of in-
formation as to the sources of this fibre or the history of its Oriental
and European fabrication. Besides, we do not forget that the prin-
cipal source of the popular knowledge of this subject in this country
is the exhaustive report prepared by Mr. Cowdin, the Chairman of
this group, in his former official position as an American Commis-
sioner at the Paris Exposition of 1867, and that it would be vain to
expect to glean from a field which had been so thoroughly reaped
and harvested.

The writer will confine himself, in this portion of his report, to a
brief sketch of the more general impressions made by the foreign
exhibits of fabrics of silk, — omitting notices of the raw material, and
not attempting any analysis or minute comparison of foreign fabrics,
— and to a notice, more extended, of American products.

Before proceeding with these sketches, it is but an act of duty for
the writer to refer, as he can without indelicacy, to the character of
the work performed by the subdivision of the Judges of Group IX.
intrusted with the examination of silk. They consisted of Mr. Gustav
Gebhard, a practical manufacturer of Elberfeld, Germany, one of the
most celebrated and extensive fabricants in Europe, whose facility for
work in this department was aided by his rare command of all the
Continental languages ; Mr. Louis Chatel, an eminent manufacturer
of Lyons, who, confined to his chamber by an unfortunate accident,
still insisted upon having samples of all the fabrics under examina-
tion submitted to him in his chamber; Mr. Hayami Kenzo, an accom-
plished Japanese gentleman, the Government Director of silk-reeling
establishments in his own country; Mr.. August Behmer, an Egyptian

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. 83

gentleman, familiar with the production of raw silk; Mr. John G.
Neeser, a Swiss gentleman ; and Messrs. Cowdin and Le Boutillier,
Americans, — the latter three of very large experience in the silk trade.
All the exhibits were carefully inspected in the cases by the Judges
of the subdivision, and submitted to subsequent examination and tests
through samples. The sewing-silks and twists exhibited were sub-
mitted to rigorous tests by machines and otherwise, to determine their
smoothness and tenacity; careful notes being taken of these experi-
ments. Brief as the awards are in this subdivision, their value is
greatly enhanced by the high character of the Judges and their con-
scientious and rigorous examination. To American exhibitors in this
department, especially, will the high awards they have received from
foreign manufacturers, from whom even mention is praise, be of
peculiar value. The writer, instructed, as he could not fail to be, by
daily intercourse with his accomplished associates, and guided in his
observations by their direction, has less diffidence in offering the notes
which follow.

FRANCE.

France, as occupying the first position among the silk-manufacturing
nations, having had a production in 1874 of J[ 116,000,000, and an
export of ;$95,ooo,ooo, — a production three times as great as Germany,
which next follows her, — commands the first notice. The principal
French display of silks, being in a somewhat secluded court, was
made more pleasing from the exclusion of other objects, and the
brilliancy of the fabrics was enhanced by the extreme simplicity of
the cases inclosing them. No section of the Exhibition was more
attractive than this court, displaying as it did the models of perfection
in the most luxurious department of the textile industry, and the
most brilliant and artistic products which the weaver's art can create.
In this court were gathered the substantial proofs of that aspiration
for ideal excellence in the material, fabrication, and artistic form of
her products, which has given to France the crown of industrial glory.
With all the pleasure conveyed to the eye and senses by graceful
designs and infinitely varied colors, by gorgeous decoration and unex-
pected combinations of material or color, perhaps the chief satisfac-
tion derived from the inspection of the products of this court resulted
from the consciousness that they were the best results hitherto attain-
able by human effort in one great department of industry. Another
vivid impression made by this court was that the industry it displayed
was the product of an aesthetic culture, general and special, without
example in the world, and of influences such as have existed in no
other nation. The industry was planted by the royal foresight of

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84 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

King Henry of Navarre, and sustained by the political economy of
Colbert. It grew up in the genial atmosphere of the most splendid
courts of Europe. The chemistry of Berthollet and Dumas furnished
dyes for its fabrics ; the traditions of the Renaissance and the pencil
of Watteau gave it designs ; and Chevreuil imparted to it the secrets
of harmonizing and contrasting colors. While, in later periods, the
protective influences of the Government (whether empire or republic)
have never been wanting, the pre-eminence of the silk-manufacture
of France has been sustained by a working population who have
inherited the traditions and secrets of manipulation from generations
of artisans, and by art schools for workmen, which Lyons was the
first city in the world to inaugurate.

The visitors at the Exhibition, whose imagination had been excited
by the learned researches of Michel upon the precious stuffs of the
Middle Ages, or the splendidly-colored plates of the characteristic
silken tissues of every period recently published in Paris, might have
experienced some disappointment at the comparatively small display
of the figured brocades, damasks, and velvets so conspicuous in the
personal costumes of the earlier periods. Mainly, as is asserted,
through the influence of the Franco-Prussian war, which plunged
France into mourning, the figured and brocaded stuffs were replaced
by plain fabrics in personal costumes, although now beginning to
reappear. It may not be generally known that it is in the perfect
fabrication of the plain stuffs, especially the plain black silks, that the
highest art of the manufacturer consists, as no inequality of thread
or unevenness of tissue or dye can be concealed by the figure. Of
the plain tissues of this description in this section recognized by the
expert Judges as of incomparable excellence, it is useless to attempt
a description. To be appreciated, they must be seen or worn.

There was no lack of fabrics whose beauty was due to design and
color. Conspicuous among them were printed foulards, upon which
the arts of design and of impression would seem to have been ex-
hausted. The miraculous power of the Jacquard loom to produce
the most complicated designs was most tastefully and appropriately
shown in a woven representation in silk, upon a background of tissue,
about two feet long and as many broad, of the mulberry in leaves and
fruit, with the silk-worm and moth in every stage of development;
the colors exquisitely shaded, the mulberry branch being intertwined
with a ribbon bearing the significant motto, vestit, ornat, ditat.

Although decoration is sparsely used in stuffs for dresses, it still
finds an infinite field for application in stuffs for upholstery, and
especially in fabrics for church vestments. Antiquarian learning seems

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, 85

to have exhausted itself in seeking examples and authorities in the
past for forms and colors of ecclesiastical vestments. Silk, gold,
silver, and jewels glitter on the copes, the chasubles, the mitres, the
stoles, and altar-cloths, of the church more prodigally, and combined
with higher skill, than they could have done in the most splendid pe-
riod of mediaeval history. It is said that in some of these tissues the
workman can weave not more than an inch in a day, and the prices
sometimes attain the enormous sum of three hundred dollars per
yard. The most brilliant display of these fabrics, as well as those for
upholstery purposes, was made by Messrs. Tasiman & Chatel; the
latter being a Judge, the exhibit was precluded from an official award.
Their magnificence equaled all that the imagination could conceive.
An interesting feature of some of these fabrics was a reproduction of
Oriental types, illustrating the views maintained by the learned M.
Michel, that the figures on heraldic coats of arms were derived from
silk-stuffs of the East, of which the representation of animals — such
as lions, leopards, eagles, griffins, etc. — formed the ordinary ornament.
On one of the fabrics exhibited by Mr. Chatel, with a background
of gold and red, was interwoven, so as to cover the surface, repeated
figures of elephants, horses, falcons, cocks, dogs, deer, and mounted
horsemen ; all designed conventionally, or in heraldic style.

To illustrate the extent and variety of the silk products and pro-
ducers of France, as well as to pay a deserved tribute to the typical
silk-manufacturers of the world, we subjoin a list of the principal
French exhibitors, with the products :

Black silks C. J. Bonnet*s Sons & Co., Lyons.

Black silks Jaubert, Audras,& Co., Lyons.

Black silks Tapissier Son & Debry, Lyons.

Black silks Gourd, Croisat Son, & Dabost, Lyons.

Black silks Antoine Guinet & Co., Lyons.

Black and colored velvets . . . Gaiitier, Bellon, & Co., Lyons.

Black velvets and colored silks . . J. P. Million & Servier, Lyons.

Black velvets Font, Chambeyron, & Benoit, Lyons.

Black silk velvets C. J. Servant & Co., Lyons.

Black dyed silks Gillet & Son, Lyons.

Dress silks and novelties . . . Poncet, Senior & Junior, Lyons.

Colored silk goods .... Faye & Thivenin, Lyons.

Silk goods Sev^ne, Barral, & Co., Lyons.

Damask silks and novelties . . . Bresson-Agn^ & Co., Lyons.

Colored failles and gros-grains . . Bardon & Ritton, Lyons.

Striped and fancy silks .... Mauvemay & Co., Lyons.

Siciliennes Audibert, Monin, & Co., Lyons.

Poplins J. Drogue & A. Monnord, Lyons.

Foulards A. L. Trapadoux & Co., Lyons.

Foulards Jandin & Duval, Lyons.

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86 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

Foulards Gondard, Cirlot, & Martel, Lyons.

Hatters' plushes Huber & Co., Paris.

Black and colored satins . . . Brosset-Heckel & Co., Lyons.

Hatters* plushes . . . , . J. B. Martin, Tarare.

Crapes ....... Montessuy & Chomer, Lyons.

Umbrella silks Alex. Giraud & Co., Lyons.

Velvet ribbons F. Brioude, St. Etienne.

Velvet ribbons Giron Brothers, St. Etienne.

Sewing-silks Benoit, Tabard, & Co., Lyons.

Silk gauzes and bolting-cloth . . . L. Demon, Lyons.

Bolting cloth L. R. Gascon, Montauban.

Raw and sewing-silk .... Joseph Puydebart, Lyons.

GERMANY.

Germany, although ranking second in the production of manufac-
tured silk, — having had a production of the value of ;J38.ooo,ooo in
1874, — was represented by few exhibitors, awards having been made
but to four exhibitors ; viz., to Escales & Hatry, of Saargemiind, for
silk plushes for hatters* use, of remarkable perfection in color and
finish; to Gressard & Co., of Hilden, for foulards of high excellence;
to Carl Mez & Sons, of Freiburg, Baden, for sewing-silks of great
beauty in color and finish ; Massing Brothers & Co., Piittlingen, for
hatters* plushes of high excellence.

But the paucity of exhibitors from Germany was atoned for by the
beauty of exhibits made by Mr. Gustav Gebhard, of Elberfeld, who,
on account of his position as Judge, was precluded from an award.
In the absence of the notes promised by Mr. Gebhard, we are com-
pelled to trust only to our own memoranda and impressions. The
products of the establishment represented are understood to be fur-
nished by the labor of some four thousand persons, not employed
(as with us) in a single establishment, but working hand-looms in
their own houses. The goods, exhibited in two very large cases, and
most tastefully arranged, consisted of figured velvets, satins, and bro-
cades, many of them executed in silver and gold. A striking feature
of the exhibit was the designation by cards of the markets for which
the several fabrics were specially destined. India, Siam, Batavia,
Constantinople, had each their special fabrics, in which the character-
istic features of the native productions of different Oriental countries
were reproduced, doubtless with cheaper materials, but with attractive
effects.

INDIA.

The reference to copies of Oriental fabrics leads us naturally to the
original fabrics of silk which were exhibited from the East The
India Museum's most attractive and instructive exhibit contained

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, 87

beautiful specimens of India silks. Conspicuous among them was a
brocade long scarf, or Kincob, from Benares, in which, from silver
leaves placed on a dark or deep-red ground, spring gold flowers with
black centres. Another brocade, of wonderful beauty and exquisite
texture, is composed of a gold ground, varied or shaded by delicate
shades of silk, in low tones of blue and red. The figures in these
brocades are all conventionalized. Still another attractive fabric was a
fine silk gauze, embroidered with gold in flattened or hammered scales.
More instructive to the student of textiles than the few large and
brilliant samples of fabrics was the collection, made under the direc-
tion of the East India Museum, of the splendid volumes, albums, and
framed samples of all the textile fabrics of India, in which the won-
derful variety and perfection of the native silk fabrics of India are ad-
mirably displayed. The expense of a series of these samples (about
two thousand dollars) forbids their possession by individuals; but
none of our industrial or art museums should fail to have these
admirable models of industrial art-work.

NETHERLANDS COLONIES.

Among the silk fabrics shown at the Exhibition, there was nothing
surpassing the scarf-like brocades from Sumatra and Java, exhibited
in the collection of the Netherlands colonies. They belong to the
native princes, and were lent for the purpose of exhibition in Phila-
delphia. They were all of native production. A model of a rude
loom was exhibited, upon which they are said to have been woven.
But it seems inconceivable that such fabrics could have been produced
by such rude mechanism. The ends of the scarfs are fringed with flat
tassels of silver, rudely made and unpolished. The fabric is of silk
of a dull red tone, shot with gold thread. The terminal borders are
well marked and broad. The designs are arabesques of a geometrical
construction, — no figures of flowers or animals being introduced, —
but of a most subtle and ingenious character. Although the texture
is nearly covered with gold, it is scarcely apparent; and the general
tone of the fabric is low and subdued. This subdued effect is pro-
duced by the neutral tone of the silk, and the manner in which the
design is made to spread all over the texture.

CHINA AND JAPAN.

Japan and China, although leading all other nations in the supply
of raw material, and in silken embroideries unequaled, were inferior
in the artistic character of their woven goods to India and Java. The
plain colored satins of China were of excellent manufacture; and

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88 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

a fine exhibit consisted of colored and figured silks, which were
declared by the Judges to be marked improvements over former
productions of that country. Among the exhibits from Japan, the
most conspicuous for excellence were the silk crapes, white, dyed,
and printed ; the dyed cherries and scarlets being notable for the per-
fection and brilliancy of their hues, while others were most skillfully
shaded. Productions of silk from cocoons of worms feeding on the
walnut, and others from worms feeding on the oak, were interesting.
The most curious of the Japanese fabrics were brocades of great ap-
parent richness, on account of the gold woven in the tissue; gold
flowers and leaves being intermingled with scarlet flowers upon an
indigo-blue ground. The threads of gold forming the warp, upon
close examination were found to consist of exceedingly narrow or
thread-like strips of paper, gilded, but only on one side ; the gilded
side being invariably brought to the surface in the tissue. It was ob-
served by experts that this effect could only be produced in hand-
looms.

TURKEY, EGYPT, TUNIS.

The less remote Oriental nations — Turkey, Tunis, and Egypt —
showed that they had not lost the arts of silk fabrication which they
once enjoyed in supreme perfection. The damasks and brocades,
woven in silk alone, or mixed with gold and silver, though Oriental
and characteristic in design, in many cases exhibited excellent taste
and workmanship.

RUSSIA.

Russia, combining Oriental sentiment and traditions with the art
and technical skill of Western Europe, made exhibits of silk fabrics
which worthily attracted universal admiration. We refer particularly
to the damasks and brocades of silk, gold, and silver, the latter liter-
ally " cloths of gold and silver.'* made in Moscow and St. Petersburg,
and the sacerdotal vestments in gold and silver tissues made in the
same cities. These tissues, vying with the best productions of Lyons
in execution, have a characteristic interest and beauty, derived from
the traditional splendors of the Greek Church. Some of the rich
fabrics were especially noticeable from the pure Byzantine character
of the design, employing religious symbols, which Ruskin has pointed
out, in his Stones of Venice, as characteristic of the earliest Chris-
tian or Byzantine decoration. The notable exhibitors of these mag-
nificent stuffs were A. & W. Sapojinkoff, Moscow; John Sytof, St.
Petersburg; Mosjookhin & Sons, Moscow; and F. A. Jevargeif, St.
Petersburg.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OP GROUP IX. 89

The ordinary silk fabrics exhibited by Russia were of high excel-
lence. Among those deserving special mention are Sergius Zoobkof,
of Khomootovo, Moscow, for rich colored failles; Alexis Fomitchef,
Moscow, for rich figured failles and silk cashmeres; Kondrashef
Brothers, Grebenevo, Moscow, for plain black and colored failles
and upholstery damasks ; Emilianoff & Rochefort, and Zolotaref &
Ribakoff, Moscow, for silk and wool dress goods ; Shelaief Brothers,
Moscow, for black and colored satins.

Mr. A. Neboltine, a Russian statistician, says, "We commenced in
the last century to manufacture silk in Russia ; but it is only during
the present century, and above all since 1830, under the influence of
a protective tariff, that this fabrication has become developed, or ac-
quired any considerable importance." He shows that in 1872 there
were 460 silk-factories, 15,800 workmen, and an annual production
of 10,300,000 roubles, including the production of trans-Caucasia,
which is more of a domestic than manufacturing character ; and that
the importation of foreign silks in 187 1 was of a value of 6,293,935
roubles, or a little more than half that of the national fabrication.

SWITZERLAND.

Returning to the more prosaic regions of the European silk-manu-
facture, we find that Switzerland best represents the fabrication adapted
to the ordinary commercial demands of modern times. Zurich, the
chief centre of the fabrication, occupies the same position in the
silk-manufacture that Bradford does in the worsted and Verviers in
woolen industry. She manufactures for export and for the million.
Economy of production is the first object. Although provided with
very cheap labor, Switzerland has led other nations in the application
of labor-saving machinery, and she has chiefly furnished the models
for the best machinery used in this country, both in the manipulation
and dyeing of silk. She excels in the combination of cheaper mate-
rials, such as cotton with silk ; the silk being thrown upon the sur-
face, and the cotton forming the back, as in cotton-backed satins and
marcelines. Although producing the higher classes of dress silks,
black and colored, in great perfection, as evinced in the beautiful ex-
hibit of Baumann, Aelter, & Co., of Zurich, the characteristic of the
Swiss manufacture is the adaptation, for popular consumption, of
fabrics which are made attractive by taste in design, excellence in
execution, and reasonableness of price. An interesting evidence of
the confidence of the Swiss manufacturers in folding their own ground
against foreign rivals is the circumstance that the Swiss Commis-
sioner, alone among foreign representatives, caused a series of albums,

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most beautifully arranged, containing samples of all the silk-products
exhibited by his country, to be presented to the principal industrial
museums and associations of this country. One of these albums the
writer has now before him. In this album there are no rich brocades,
damasks, or velvets, and nothing conspicuous in an artistic point of
view. The fine gros-grains and failles, black and colored, exhibit
great regularity and perfection of execution. The figured silks are
marked for the simplicity and delicacy of their designs ; the fine
stripes, so difficult of execution, being perfect. The few brocades are
tasteful, but not showy. The marcelines and the satins, with either
cotton-tram or chain, are very effective, especially in the materials
for cravats. We must not omit a product in which silk, ordinarily
ministering only to luxury, contributes to the first of necessities. It
forms the material for bolting-cloth used in the manufacture of wheat
flour. In the manufacture of this fabric the Swiss have attained
the utmost perfection. The leading exhibitors, with their products,
were:

Black and colored failles and taffetas . Adlischweil Silk Goods Factory, Adlischweil,

near Zurich.

Black and colored gros-grains and failles . Beaumann, Aelter, & Co., Zurich.

Black and colored failles . . . . S. Rutschi & Co., Zurich.

Marcelines Ryffel & Co., Staefa and Zurich.

Colored and figured dress-silks . . . Emil Schaerer & Co., Zurich.

Colored failles and changeables . . J. Schwarzenbach - Landis, Thalweil, near

Zurich.

Plain, striped, and check dress-silks . . Joh. Stapfer's Sons, Hprgen, Zurich.

Cotton-back satins Stunzi & Sons, Horgen, Zurich.

Dress-silks ...*.. Baumann & Streuli, Horgen, Zurich.

Low-priced cravat materials . . . Jansen, Bodek, & Hertz, Reisbach.

Black and colored gros-grains and brocades William Schroeder & Co., Zurich.

Silk bolting-cloths Meyer Brothers, Zurich.

Silk bolting-cloths Heidegger, Wegmann,& Co., Seefeld, Zurich.

Silk bolting-cloths Ruff Huber, Zurich.

Silk boiling- cloths Egli & Sennhauser, Zurich.

Silk bolting-cloths Homberger Brothers, Wetzikon.

AUSTRIA.

Austria, which more properly should have been considered in con-
nection with Germany, exhibited black silks well adapted from their
low price to a large consumption, cotton-back velvets, and silk velvets,
black, colored, and white, of excellent manufacture. The prominent
exhibitors were :

Black silks S. Trebitsch & Son, Vienna.

Cotton-back velvets Carl Hetzer & Sons, Vienna.

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Fancy silks C. G. Hornbostcl & Co., Vienna.

All-.silk velvets F. Reichert's Sons, Vienna.

Hatters' ribbons J. Swartz & Son, Vienna.

GREAT BRITAIN.

Great Britain failed to make any adequate representation of her
manufacture, although it counts by millions of pounds sterling in
value. There were only four well-marked exhibits. Pin Brothers &
Co. did high credit to Ireland, by a splendid display of their black
and colored hand-woven plain silk poplins, which are celebrated
throughout the world, and by furniture damasks of fine effect. Nor-
ris & Co. made an excellent display of upholstery silks, which were
.specially noticeable for admirably executed designs, in great variety,
all conceived in the spirit of the modern English school. Admirably
executed figured and emblematical ribbons were exhibited by Thomas
Stevens, of Coventry, as well as an excellent silk loom of quite origi-
nal construction. There were two excellent exhibits of sewing-silks.

ITALY.

Italy, who, in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, supplied all
Europe with the richest fabrics of silk, equally disappointed the vis-
itor at the Exhibition by her display of fabrics in this department;
only a single exhibit of figured velvets from Milan being noticeable.
A series of rich antique stuffs in the Castellani collection, however,
gave the visitor some conception of the ancient splendors of the silk
fabrication of Italy.

SPAIN.

The political condition of Spain prevented her from making the
display of which she would have been otherwise capable. Spain is
still a treasure-house of the splendid stuffs of the past, most of the
richest ornaments of the Kensington Museum having been obtained
in that country. We are assured that many of the traditionary arts
of silk-weaving have been preserved, particularly in the religious
houses. Black silks of good manufacture, and black cashmere silks
in fine grades, well made in every respect, were exhibited ; also cur-
tains, furniture damasks, and brocades in good colors ; effective stuffs
for cravats and fichus, and hand-made figured silks in old Moorish
and Oriental styles. The principal exhibitors and products were :

Black silks Antonio Pascual & Co., Reus, Tarragona.

Black cashmere silks .... Farriols & Son, Barcelona.

Curtain and furniture damasks . . . Benito Malrehy, Barcelona.
Silk cravats and fichus .... Eduardo Reig & Co., Barcelona.
Valencia silks in old Moorish styles . . Fernando Ibanez Palenciano, Valencia.

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PORTUGAL.

Portugal surprised us by the excellence of several exhibits of gold
and silver damasks for church purposes, and of rich brocades and
brocatelles for furniture and curtains, as well as well-made dress silks ;
all evincing an unexpected progress in that country towards industrial
independence. The leading exhibits were as follows :

Gold and silver damasks .... David Jos6 da Silva & Son, Oporto.
. Gold and silver cloths .... Viuva Ferreira Campos & Co., Oporto.

Upholstery stuffs National Silk-Weaving and Spinning Co.,

Lisbon.
Gold and silver galloons and gimp . . Custodio Lopez da Silva Guimaraes, Pena6el.
Black and colored failles and brocatelles . Ramires & Ramires, Lisbon.

In observing, as we do in this slight sketch, the high attainments
made in silk fabrication by countries regarded as barbaric, as well as
those possessing all the modern inventions, we perceive that there are
no conditions in any country, where civilization has dawned, prevent-
ing the appropriation of this industry. The raw material, unlike wool
and cotton, from its nigh intrinsic value, compared with its weight,
being almost as transportable as the precious metals, is almost equally
available to every country. Where traditionary skill, which still nour-
ishes the manufacture in the declining countries of the East, is want-
ing, or favorable circumstances, like the exodus of silk workmen into
England from the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, do not exist,
the encouragement of governments and the enterprise of the people
must give the impetus to a manufacture which every self-dependent
nation aspires to plant upon its soil. What these influences have
accomplished we shall now attempt to trace in the history of the silk
fabrication in our own country.

SILK-CULTURE AND FABRICATION IN THE UNITED STATES.

The exhibits of American .silks at Philadelphia were, without
question, the most triumphant trophies of achievements in the textile
industry within the last two decades displayed by any nation or de-
partment of textile fabrication. The brief period within which our
silk-manufacture has reached its high position tempts us to describe
the steps of its progress. But a detailed history would be unsuited
to the general plan of this report, while any attempt at original his-
torical research in this department is rendered unnecessary by the full
" particulars in relation to silk and the silk-manufactures, chronologi-
cally arranged, prepared by Mr. Franklin Allen, Secretary of the Silk

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A^sociation of America," published in the United States Industrial
Directory of 18^6 ; and by the exceedingly well-written and carefully-
executed History of the Silk-Industry of America, prepared for the
Centennial Exposition by L,P. Brockett, M.D., and published under the
auspices of the Silk Association of America. These works will be
freely drawn upon without further acknowledgment. The writer
will add that he has verified the observations of Mr. Allen and Dr.
Brockett, as well as his own impressions and notes at the Exhibition,
by a recent personal visit to most of the representative silk-manu-
facturing establishments in this country.

The Silk-Culture. — We will first notice the growth and extension
of the silk-culture in this country. The production of the raw material
was attempted in the earliest periods of our colonial history, in the
Southern colonies, where the conditions of climate were most favor-
able for the growth of the mulberry and the raising of silk-worms;
but the more profitable culture of tobacco and rice, and subsequently
of cotton, together with the incapacity of the only working popula-
tion of the South, the negroes, to perform the delicate operation of
reeling, caused the silk-culture, in that section, finally to wholly dis-
appear. It was more successful in Connecticut, where the conditions
of climate were less favorable, but where the necessities of the people,
and their habits of thrift, had developed an active household industry.

Through the influence of Dr. Stiles, afterwards President of Yale

College, a State bounty was given, in 1763, for the culture of the

mulberry and the production of raw silk. In 1766, half an ounce of

mulberry-seed was sent to every parish in the State. The domestic

culture of silk was very general in the State during and subsequent

to the Revolution. It became a fixed industry, however, only in the

town of Mansfield, where it had been introduced by Dr. Aspinwall, in

1766. This town became noted for the production of silk grown

and reeled in the households. " Mulberry orchards," of the hardy

native white mulberry, were distributed throughout the township, and

rows of this tree shaded the highways and fringed the cultivated

fields. The production of silk in a single family sometimes amounted

to one hundred and thirty pounds in a season, and most of the labor

was performed by women and children. The silk, very imperfectly

reeled, was spun on a hand-wheel into a roughly-made sewing-silk

(dyed in the household), which was usually sold in barter to the

country stores. The floss, waste, and pierced cocoons, being mixed

with wool, cotton, or flax, were made into coarse stuffs for every-day

wear. The domestic production of this town from 1820 to 1 83 1 was

of an annual value of not less than ^50,000. In this domestic manu-
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INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

facture, as we shall hereafter see, were the germs of the present silk-
industry of America.

From 1780 to 1820 the domestic culture and fabrication of silk was
also pursued to some extent in New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and parts
of New York, Delaware, Maryland, and Virginia, but without any
results bearing upon the extension of the manufacture, as in Con-
necticut.

About the period of 1825, with the growing sentiment which then
prevailed for the extension of American industry, the public atten-
tion was attracted by means of congressional reports, messages of
State governors, and publications by enthusiasts in the press, to the
field for American industry which lay open in the silk-culture and
fabrication. Among the individuals most prominent as writers and
practical experimentists, though with no results profitable to them-
selves, were Mr. Duponceau, of Philadelphia, and Judge Cobb, of
Dedham, Massachusetts. Their appeals found a response in the
public mind, dictated by the natural desire to appropriate the most
attractive and luxurious of the textile arts, together with a new
product for our soil. But the means by which the much-desired
industry should be planted were not yet made clear. At an unhappy
moment. Dr. Felix Pascalis made known to the public the remarkably
rapid growth and supposed excellent qualities of the Morus multicaulis,
first planted in the United States in 1826. In place of the old method
of planting the well-known and hardy, but slow-growing, mulberr}*^
trees, it was proposed to secure leaves fit for feeding from trees of a
single season's growth, which seemed possible through the extraor-
dinary luxuriance of growth of the multicaulis variety. The public
were taught that every farm should be a nursery for the young trees,
that every house should have its cocooneries, and that silk would
become as cheap as cotton. At first gradually, and then more and
more rapidly, the excitement in regard to the multicaulis grew, until
it reached a speculation, whose extent and folly, and the ruin it
brought in its collapse, in 1839, are too well remembered to need any
further notice. With the subsidence of the multicaulis fever, there
came a general decline of interest in the silk-culture, except in Mans-
field, which had so thoroughly tested the value of the white mulberry
as to partake but little of the prevalent excitement. There, however,
the mania for speculation, which seems to have been an epidemic of
the times, was transferred to the white mulberry. The fever had its
course and its reaction. Silk-culture sank into disfavor in the town
to which it had given prosperity for nearly seventy years. Finally,
in 1844, a blight of a general character, to which even the hardy

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white mulberry yielded, gave the finishing blow, and silk-culture in
America ceased to exist.

But the silk-culture, humble as it was and brief in duration, was
the means of developing a knowledge of the fibre, of its uses, and
manipulations ; it drew attention to the possibilities of the fabrication,
and created a passion for working it. The silk-culture was the humble
larva from which was developed the winged and perfect insect, bril-
liant with gold and color, to which the perfected silk- manufacture may
not unaptly be compared.

Fabrication of Machine- and Sewing-Silk. — Proceeding to a his-
tory of the organized manufacture of silk in this country, we find that
two of the most important branches of the manufacture, that of sewing-
silk and spun silk, were direct offshoots from the domestic silk-culture
of Connecticut. Attempts were made at Mansfield in 1810, 18 14, and
1 82 1, by Rodney Hanks, to manufacture sewing-silk by power, but
without success. His grandsons are now successful manufacturers.
In 1829 a company, consisting of seven individuals, most of whom
subsequently became identified with numerous enterprises in the silk-
manufacture, was incorporated under the name of the Mansfield Silk
Company. Their first successful machinery was made by Mr. Lilly,
the promoter of tht enterprise, in accordance with the descriptions
and rude drawings of Edmund Golding, a young English " throwster,"
who came to this country at the age of seventeen, expecting to find
employment in his art. But the machinery proving inadequate for
the manufacture of American silk, as it was then reeled, raw silk for
the first time was imported from England and used in the manufacture
of sewing-silk, which proved superior to the hand-made skeins. From
that first successful attempt, the manufacture of sewing-silk, by power,
has been uninterruptedly continued, though with successive improve-
ments in machinery, as well as in the quality of the goods made.
This company, having unwisely entered into the culture of silk, was
finally dissolved. Several members of the disbanded company started
the manufacture of sewing-silks in other places, and contributed to
the spread of the new industry. An ingenious mechanic of Mans-
field, named Rixford, made improvements in the machinery for wind-
ing, doubling, and reeling, which were adopted in a mill started at
Florence, near Northampton, out of which the now celebrated Nono-
tuck Company's establishment sprung. So that in the humble domestic
silk-culture of Mansfield may be clearly seen the source of the present
manufacture of sewing-silks and machine-twists in this country,
amounting in 1875 to over six million dollars in value.

This is, at present, the characteristic department of New England

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in the silk-manufacture, and the few details which we are able to offer
in relation to this branch of silk fabrication can be most appropriately
given in this connection. So numerous have the establishments be-
come (twenty-five in Connecticut and Massachusetts, besides those in
other States), and necessarily so active is the rivalry between them,
that it would be invidious to specialize the several contributions which
they have made to the high advancement of this great branch of the
silk-manufacture.

The first object sought by the early sewing-silk manufacturers was
to rival and replace in our markets the Italian sewing-silks in universal
use ; and the sewings, at first, were put in packages with Italianized
labels, simulating Italian sewings. Although dealers had the usual
distrust in American productions, our early manufacturers were aided
by the long voyages between this country and Europe, which often
caused temporary deficiencies in the supply of Italian sewing-silks.
By filling up these gaps, our manufacturers got their first hold upon
the American markets. At first, only colored silks were attempted ;
competition with the superior black sewings of Italy being considered
hopeless. Advancing in the fabrication, and attaining a permanent
black dye, through its introduction in 1838 by Messrs. Valentine &
Leigh, who had been practical dyers in England,*— one of whom. Mr.
Leigh, still survives, — they undertook a fabric in greater demand, —
black sewing-silks in skeins, for tailors* use. The sewing by the hand,
and the simple needle then in sole use, demanded a far less perfect
thread than that now required for machine-sewing. Illustrations of
the solidarity of the industries are perpetually recurring. The Amer-
ican invention of the sewing-machine was the inauguration of the
sewing-silk manufacture of America, in the forms and proportions
which it now holds. The sewing-machine required that silk for its
use should be put upon spools, and be of a special manufacture. The
proprietors of an establishment in Massachusetts, now famous, know-
ing the difficulties attending the use of silk thVeads, as then made,
upon the newly-invented sewing-machine, devised the plan of twisting
the silk in a direction opposite to that of common or skein sewing-
silk. Winding a pound of three-cord silk, thus twisted, upon spools
containing one-hajf ounce each, they submitted it, in 1852, to Mr.
Singer, who was then experimenting upon his newly-invented sewing-
machine, with which he met difficulties that he could not overcome.
We cannot so well describe this important step in the manufacture of
sewing-silks as in the language of Mr. Lilly, a proprietor in the estab-
lishment referred to. The silk was handed to " Mr. Singer with the
request that he would try it. He put a spool upon his machine,

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threaded up, and commenced sewing. After sewing sufficiently to
enable him to judge of its merit, he stopped, and, after examining
the work it had done, exclaimed, * Can you make any more like this ?*
(addressing the agent, who stood watching the result with great in-
terest :) ' I shall want all you can make,* — a prophecy literally fulfilled.
The new fabric assumed the name of * machine-twist;* and from that
time to the present the amount of silk consumed upon sewing-machines
is marvelous. A new enterprise was born, which created an industry
giving labor to many thousands."

Although, in this first experiment of machine-twist, the invention
was complete, the manufacturers still found great trouble in its pro-
duction ; for the machine required a thread which, to be moved auto-
matically, must be absolutely perfect, like the machine itself. It was
by gradual improvements in machinery, and manipulations generally
too minute to warrant description, that they succeeded in the result
they have now so completely attained, — that of placing upon spools
a definite weight of silk thread, of continuous length, entirely free
from slugs, knots, and uneven places, and perfectly adapted to the
machine which is to apply it. We may, however, mention as Amer-
ican inventions, which have contributed to the advancement of this
manufacture, new mechanical patented devices for spooling the thread
and weighing it ; and especially a machine in general use for stretch-
ing the thread after it has been twisted, which has the effect of length-
ening the thread about fifteen per cent., and of making it even
throughout. As the manufacture advanced, the standard of excel-
lence, both on the part of the producer and consumer, grew higher.
In the earlier stages of manufacture, the black silks were heavily
weighted by chemical means ; greatly diminishing the tensile strength
of the thread, — a system then invariably pursued by the makers of
foreign sewing-silks. Certain American manufacturers then intro-
duced goods of strictly pure dye ; and, to insure the consumer against
fraud, also introduced measuring and strength-testing machines, by
means of which the buyer might inform himself of the actual value
he had in each pound of twist. In time, the makers placed upon the
goods their own names and brands or trade-marks, like the well-
known designations, "Nonotuck," ** Corticelli,'* " Lion," "Eureka,*'
etc., which are absolute guarantees, to the consumer and dealer, of
the quantity and quality of the goods sold. The direct tests to which
the American sewing- and machine-silks are subjected, in this coun-
try, by the ready-made clothing manufacture, unequaled by any other
in the world in the extent and systematical character of its operations,
has contributed greatly to the perfection of this Branch of the silk-

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manufacture. That the United States may now challenge the world
in the fabrication of sewing-silks was fully demonstrated at the
Exhibition, as here before said. All the sewing-silks exhibited
were subjected to the most severe tests by the expert Judges. A
result of these careful tests was the conclusion of the Judges,
that certain American sewing-silks exhibited surpassed, in all the
qualities which make up the sum of excellence, any displayed by
foreign nations.

The statement of the aggregate production of sewing-silks and ma-
chine-twists in this country fails to show the large scale upon which
this manufacture is conducted, and the activity of enterprise in this
department. A better conception may be formed from the facts, that
in a single establishment not less than six hundred operatives are
constantly employed, and its consumption of raw reeled silk in the
present year is one hundred and three thousand pounds of raw silk,
of a value of about twelve dollars per pound. As an illustration of
the rapidity with which this manufacture has been expanded, it may
be stated that a firm of manufacturers who commenced the sale of
sewing-silks in 1856, with a capital of twenty-five dollars, in 1876
consumed no less than three thousand pounds of raw material in their
own manufacture, gave employment to one thousand hands, and sold
a value of about eight hundred thousand dollars.

Before leaving this branch of the silk-manufacture, we must not
omit to notice the machinery in actual operation at the Exhibition,
illustrating the methods in use in this country for fabricating sewing-
silk. A description furnished by an expert correspondent of the New
York Times is better than any we can oflfer. The machinery in
operation was exhibited by the Nonotuck Company, of Florence,
Massachusetts, and the Danforth Manufacturing Company, Paterson,
New Jersey. The writer from whom we quote says, —

•*To begin with, the skeins of raw silk, just as they come from
China or Italy, are strung upon winders, for the purpose of being
wound on to bobbins. This is a very simple process, and done on
very simple machinery; the only mechanical aid of any consequence
being a reciprocating cam, which gives a lateral motion, and dis-
tributes the strand of silk equally over the bobbin. These bobbins
are then transferred to the 'doubling' machine, on which any number
of threads, from three up to ten, are wound together. But this ma-
chine involves one or two very pretty movements. As in the case of
the winder, the equal distribution of the combined thread on the bob-
bin is regulated by a reciprocating cam ; but a very neat attachment
also stops any one bobbin the moment one of the threads, making the

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combined thread, snaps. Immediately under the bobbin on which
the threads are jointly wound there is an arm rising from a balance-
frame. Should one of the threads snap, the guide, through which it
runs, and which is only supported by its tension, falls back against
the balance-frame. Its weight is sufficient to displace the frame and
bring forward the arm ; and the arm, having an elevation, raises the
bobbin and unships it, at once stopping its revolution. By this inge-
nious arrangement, the main thread is kept of one continuous size
without any trouble, because it cannot run on without the companion-
ship of all the minor and component threads. On being taken from
the doubling-machines, the bobbins are placed on the * spinner,' which
gives the various threads a sufficient spin to make a strand in the
process of unwinding. The bobbins then go to the 'twisting* ma-
chine, on which the threads from three of them are firmly spun and
twisted together to make what is called machine-twist silk, but from
only two bobbins to make sewing-silk. Both kinds of silk are twisted
twice, but with this great difference: machine-twist is first twisted to
the right, and then to the left ; while sewing-silk is first twisted to the
left, and then to the right. The silk is then rewound into skeins,
and, after being washed in strong soap-suds, is dried and stretched.
The length of these skeins is regulated with great nicety by an inge-
nious adjustment. An eccentric drives a ratchet-wheel with a dog on
it, and the adjustment causes the dog to strike the shipper and stop
the winding-machine the moment the desired length of silk has been
wound into the skein. The silk is now ready for the dyer, and, after
being dyed, is again wound in bobbins preparatory to 'spooling.'
The spooling-machine has a feed-shaft, with a right and left hand
thread on it, and a half-nut on either side. This arrangement gives
an easy and regular direct and reverse lateral motion to the guide, the
spool remaining stationary ; the length of silk wound on to the spool
is regulated by a binder and a strap attached to a weight, both being
governed by a treadle. The operator knows exactly how many times
the guide should travel right and left to fill the spool. By pressing
the treadle the weight below the shaft is raised, and releases the strap
from the shaft; while at the same moment, and equally governed by
the treadle, the binder (which is a small wheel) presses the belt against
the shaft, causing it to revolve. The moment the spool is full, the
operator ceases to press the treadle, the binder releases the belt, and
the strap, attached to the weight below, falls on the shaft and stops it
instantly. The same arrangement enables the operative to stop the
revolution of the shaft in case of accident to the spool or thread, as
the machine cannot run unless the foot is pressing on the treadle;

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and, the moment the pressure ceases, the machine comes to an instan-
taneous stop. One of these spooling-machines will wind one hundred
and ten dozen of spools a day ; and some conception of the extent of
the Nonotuck Company's business may be gained from the fact that
they have no less than sixty of these spooling-machines in constant
operation in their factory, where they employ over six hundred hands.
Only one thing has to be done to render the spools ready for the
silk ; it is to stamp their two ends with the brand and the name of the
company. This is done by one of the prettiest and most perfect little
pieces of machinery in the hall, and the stamping of the colors into
the wood obviates the falling off of printed labels, as is sometimes the
case with cotton spools from insufficient gumming in the labeling-
machine. The spools are fed from a trough, through a hollow post,
into the stamping-machine ; an arm pushing them one by one, as they
come out at the base of the post, into a groove, where they are caught
and held in position by a small weight, the spool at the same time
pushing back a spring. Two spools are in the grooves at one time,
the one receiving its first and the other its second stamping simulta-
neously. At either end of the spools are two dies, one inked with red
and the other with blue ink. These dies press upon the spools simul-
taneously, impressing the name of the company in one color, and, on
the second impression, the brand in the other color. The outer spool
is then released by the momentary rising of the weight, and the spring
against which it was pressing kicks it out into a basket. The groove-
bed revolves, bringing the inner spool to the outside and a new spool
into the place of the inner one ; the operation being repeated ad in-
finitum. As the dies spring back from the spools, they take a quarter
turn upward, which brings them under the inking-rollers; the rollers
being inked and moving in a similar manner to those in a job-printing
press. There are four composition rollers to each ink reservoir, and
pair of dies. The whole stamping-machine is divided into two parts,
each the counterpart of the other, and turns out the stamped spools
at the rate of one hundred and twenty a minute. One machine will
stamp seventy thousand to eighty thousand spools a day, sufficient to
fill ten ordinary flour-barrels. When wound on the spools, the silk
is ready for the completion of orders, or to go into stock in the
warehouse."

The Fabrication of Spun Silk. — It was in the silk-culture that
the largest and most celebrated of our manufactories of silk goods,
that of the Cheney Brothers, had its bifth. As this establishment is
wholly without rivals in its special department, and one of the most
characteristic in the whole range of the American textile industry,

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. jqi

it commands a special mention which would be invidious in other
branches of the silk fabrication.

The sons, eight in number, of a farmer in South Manchester, after
the custom of the town had cultivated mulberry- trees and raised silk-
worms in their boyhood. Some remained at home, while others were
scattered, but only to return. For four Qr five years previously to 1838.
four of the brothers had been raising silk-worms and producing silk,
like their neighbors. In that year they started a small silk-mill at
South Manchester, for the purpose of making sewing-silk. Their
increasing interest in the silk- culture, however, led them to suspend
the operations of the mill for a time, when three of the brothers re-
moved temporarily to Burlington, New Jersey, where they established
nurseries and cocooneries, and published a magazine known as the
Silk-Grower's Manual. Their energy having, however, been mainly
devoted to planting nurseries of the multicaulis, and their plans having
been frustrated by the explosion of that bubble, in 1839 they returned
to their forsaken mill at South Manchester, and resumed the work of
making sewing-silk from imported raw silk. Subsequently, they were
rejoined by others of the family, who had established mulberry plan-
tations in Florida and Ohio. We do not propose to follow the steps
by which this establishment reached its present vast expansion. Suc-
cess came slowly, and after many discouragements, and with it an
enlargement of their operations. In 1854 a mill was built in Hart-
ford. Buildings were added at South Manchester, new machinery and
methods invented and imported, while new branches of manufacture
were added to that of sewing-silk. The main feature of the manufac-
ture in time came to be the working into every conceivable fabric that
form of silk known here as spun silk, and on the Continent of Europe as
chappe. This is silk spun from pierced cocoons, floss, and waste, and
whatever cannot be reeled. The fabrics from this material, though
wanting in the high lustre of those made from reeled silk, are remark-
able for their wearing qualities, their beauty actually increasing with
wear. The extensive use of this material for dress goods and ribbons
is quite recent; but these fabrics, as now made by Messrs. Cheney
Brothers, are recognized as cheaper and better than any goods of
their grade in the market. The leading articles produced in this es-
tablishment are black and colored gros-grain silks, which have ob-
tained a wide-spread reputation for their cheapness and good wearing
qualities, as compared with imported goods of corresponding grades
and weight. Ribbons of all colors and widths, which are among the
most popular brands in the market, and a great variety of silks for
the millinery and trimming trade, — for parasols, and ^or hat and fur

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I02 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

linings. The expert Judges at the Exhibition recognized in their
award to Messrs. Cheney Brothers the " high degree of excellence
of the piece goods and ribbons exhibited, and the perfect manipula-
tions of the spun silk in every form."

But the proud distinction of this establishment is not so much the
unequaled character of the fabrics in its peculiar line, its army of
fifteen hundred workmen, or its production exceeding two millions
in annual value, as the manner in which it has solved the highest and
most difficult of problems, — the securing commercial success, with
the harmony of interest between the employer and the operative. It
would seem that neither taste nor social science could devise happier
adaptations for the wants of a manufacturing population than are
found in the village of South Manchester. In a highly-kept park of
seven or eight hundred acres, without a single inclosure, are scattered
the beautifully-appointed factories and warehouses, the handsome resi-
dences of the proprietors, the churches and public halls, the con-
venient boarding-houses, and the two hundred dwellings of the work-
men, each isolated, with a pleasant garden-plot, and provided with
water, gas, and perfect sewerage. The large farm of the proprietors,
near the village, furnishes a supply of milk and vegetables at moder-
ate prices; and an extensive bakery contributes to the public con-
venience. The intellectual wants of the workmen are provided for
by a first-class school, a library and reading-room, and a commodious
hall for lectures and public entertainments. The dream of an ideal
community seems here to be as completely realized as is possible with
the inexorable conditions of labor and capital. It is gratifying to see
that the enlarged views of the proprietors have been productive of
commercial success. An obvious result of their system has been to
secure and retain the best class of workmen. There has never been
a strike in this establishment ; a strike being held, in the words of
one of the proprietors to the writer, ** as disgraceful to the employer
as to the operative."

Woven Goods of Reeled Silk. — To observe the American fabri-
cation of silk in its most luxurious forms and in the utmost variety,
we must leave New England, and seek a district in New Jersey and
New York, comprising the city of Paterson, its chief centre, and out-
lying establishments in Brooklyn, Hoboken, and New York City. In
this district, and particularly in Paterson, lying about twenty miles by
rail from the great metropolis, may be seen, in successful activity,
nearly every form of silk fabrication pursued in Europe. It is a law
of the development of industries that they spring from some obscure
germ, as the tree grows from its seed. Like the sewing-silk and the

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. 103

spun-silk manufacture, the magnificent industry of Paterson grew out
of the silk-culture of Connecticut. It was founded by Christopher
Colt, Jr., whose father was a president of a Connecticut silk-manufac-
turing company, which existed from 1835 to 1839, ^"^ ^"^ enthusiast in
the silk-culture. An uncle of Christopher Colt, Jr., was the inventor of
the celebrated revolving-pistol, and had built a large factory in Pater-
son, then a town of about seven thousand inhabitants, for the man-
ufacture of his pistols. He offered the fourth story of his mill, with
power to drive machinery, to his nephew Christopher, for the estab-
lishment of a silk-mill. It was supplied with machinery and started;
but at the end of three months it was closed, and the stock, machi-
nery, and fixtures offered for sale. Happily at this time, namely, in
1839, John Ryle, of Macclesfield, England, who had learned the arts
of the silk-manufacture in his native town, was attracted to this coun-
try by the glowing statements sent abroad by the promoters of the
Moms multicaulis excitement, then at its height. He visited North-
ampton and Connecticut, witnessed the collapse of the multicaulis
bubble and the extinction of the silk-manufacturing establishments
which had embarked in the speculation, but only to be more vividly
impressed as to the field which lay open in this country for silk-man-
ufacture. Imparting his enthusiasm to a Mr. Murray, a capitalist,
whom he fortunately met at Northampton, the latter was induced to
buy out Colt's machinery and place Mr. Ryle in charge of the first
successful silk-mill in Paterson.

In 1843, Mr. Ryle having become a partner with Mr. Murray, the
firm employed fifty hands, and consumed eight thousand pounds of
raw silk per annum, in the production of tram, sewing-silk, and twist.
In 1846, Mr. Ryle was assisted by his brothers in England to buy out
Mr. Murray's interest, and, being sole owner of the establishment, set
some looms at work, and produced several pieces of dress silks. But
this fabrication was not continued. In 1857-58 he employed from
four to five hundred operatives, and consumed two thousand pounds
of raw silk per week. For twelve years he was without any com-
petitor in Paterson. His first successful rivals were Messrs. Hamil &
Booth, who commenced business in Paterson as throwsters, in 1854,
with twenty operatives, but who now give employment to nine hun-
dred. Even as late as 1862, the manufacture of silk at Paterson was
mainly restricted to the making of machine-twists, sewing-silks, and
tram-silks, for the use of manufacturers of silk trimming located in
other cities. Efforts were made, in the years 1846, 1849, and 1864,
to introduce the weaving of broad silks; but the experiments were
only successful in demonstrating the skill of manufacturers. In

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104 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

1862-63 material improvements were made by the machinists of
Paterson in the construction of the silk-spinning machinery required
for the fabrication of fine trams and organzines, the yarns necessary
for weaving broad silks ; and a greater uniformity was attained in
assorting the various sizes of yarns required for weaving, which was
effected by the introduction of the processes known as deniering and
draining.

In the mean time, the command of the domestic market, assured
by the tariff of 1861, encouraged manufacturers in Baltimore, and in
Williamsburg, New York, to embark in the weaving of ribbons, scarfs,
neckties, etc. The establishment at Williamsburg was transferred, in
1867, to Paterson; and, under the name of William Strange & Co.,
now employs eight hundred operatives, turning out an annual product
of ribbons of the value of over a million of dollars. There are now
eight ribbon-manufacturers in Paterson, and the production of this
single city is over one hundred thousand pieces of ribbon per month.

The permanent establishment of broad-silk weaving in Paterson
dates from the period of 1866. It was first successfully effected there
by the Phoenix Manufacturing Company, and was made successful
through the production of the yarns before referred to. This estab-
lishment now employs nine hundred operatives, and is distinguished
for its perfection in Jacquard weaving. At first, eighty per cent, of
the broad silks made was used for ladies* ties. In 1872 other firms
entered into broad-silk weaving. The increase in the number of
looms was followed by variety in production, until, as at present, there
is scarcely a product of European looms in millinery, and even the
highest class of dress-silks, which does not find its rival in the Paterson
factories.

The command of skilled labor, the admirable water-power, the
vicinage to the metropolis, and, above all, the well-known advantages
of centralizing the manufacturers in a special department of a textile
industry, have led several important silk-manufacturers, first located
in Boston, Williamsburg, Schoharie, New York, and New York City,
to transfer their establishments to Paterson.

A prominent advantage of centralizing manufacturing establish-
ments is the opportunity given for specializing certain departments
of industry. This is shown at Paterson in the great success attained
in an essential branch of the silk-manufacture, — that of dyeing. The
concentration of silk-manufactures at this place has produced the
largest and most perfectly appointed dyeing establishment in the
country, in which a large part of the fabrics produced in Paterson are
dyed on commission. The proprietors of this establishment, Messrs.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, 105

Weidmann & Greppo, educated in Europe, and related to eminent
dyers in Lyons and Switzerland, have introduced the best processes
and machinery known abroad. One group of machines just intro-
duced for stringing and shaking the yarns, for the purpose of straight-
ening and stretching them after being dyed, does with three or four
men what formerly required the severe labor of sixty stout men.
Their relations with Lyons and Zurich keep them promptly informed
as to the latest improvements and fashions. Their exhibit of dyed
silks was one of the most attractive, and that of black weighted silks
was one of the most instructive, at the Exhibition. Four years ago
the dyers of Paterson held that it was impossible to perfectly dye
pure black silks in their establishments, on account of supposed
defects in the water of the place. A dye is now given in black dress-
silks fully equal to the celebrated black dyes of St. Chaumond, near
Lyons. The American dyers of black silks refrain from the repre-
hensible practice of European manufacturers of heavily weighting
their black silks by means of chemicals. It is said that the average
of French black silks are weighted as high as one hundred per cent.
The weighting may be carried, without detection by the eye, as high
as three hundred per cent. ; but very brief wear reveals the deception.
It is by no means claimed that there is higher morality on the part
of American manufacturers. But the sins of the producer for a
domestic market fly back to him so promptly and certainly, in the
form of reclamations, that interest compels honest fabrication.

** Dyeing," said the immortal Colbert, " is the soul of tissues, with-
out which the body could scarcely exist." This is especially true of
silks: the attainment of the arts of perfect dyeing is the overcoming
of the last obstacle to a successful manufacture. Fashion, constant
only in change, is perpetually varying her den:]and for new colors,
hues, and tones. She is inexorable even as to the most delicate
shades. A ribbon or dress-silk may become absolutely unsalable, at
any moment, by a change of fashion. Hence the advantages which
Paterson enjoys in the perfection of her dyeing establishments, and
of a taste instructed by a vicinage to the great metropolis. The taste
of the present times, it may be observed, demands the almost exclu-
sive use of aniline dyes in colored silks. They are more vivid and
enduring on silk than on any other raw material, and, though still
comparatively fugitive, are no more so than the fashions. Black,
brown, and drab are almost the only colors for which anilines are not
used.

To recur to the more general features of the silk-industry of
Paterson. Its importance is shown by the facts obtained from the

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I06 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

report of its Board of Trade of 1 876: number of operatives, 8000;
amount of silk used each week, 9000 pounds ; number of ribbon-
manufacturers, 8; number of broad-silk factories, 6; and about 150
hand- looms, worked by men in their own homes. Most of the spin-
ners use their own silks. The average wages of men weavers per
week, $1$) women and boys, $y. The value of the total production
yearly is about |l6,ooo,ooo.

We have dwelt at length upon the silk-industry of this city, because
it is representative of its class. Important manufactories of woven
silks, broad goods, and ribbons are found in West Hoboken and
Union, in New Jersey, and in New York City : such as those of Her-
man Simon, in Union; Givernaud Brothers, in W«st Hoboken; John
N. Stearns & Co., and J. Silbermann & Co., in New York City, eta
All the silk-manufacturing establishments of New York and New
Jersey, including those of Paterson, may be said to be manufacturing
appendages of the city of New York. The manufacturers nearly all
have their warehouses and partners in the city, or visit it daily, and
the goods are dispatched each day to the city sale-rooms. Some
were originally importers of silk goods; others still continue import-
ing in connection with their manufacturing operations. Thus a
knowledge of the wants of the trade, of the changes of fashions, of
the coming styles, is secured, which would be unattainable except
through the influences of a great metropolis.

A few words may be given to some of the improvements made in
the silk fabrication, which may be observed in the centre of manufac-
ture now under review. Machinery for throwing has recently been
introduced at Paterson, by which a spindle which formerly made three
thousand five hundred revolutions per minute now makes seven thou-
sand, doing its work as well as that more slowly revolving. It is
claimed that these machines, some of which contain nearly seven
hundred spindles, are capable of producing double the amount of
work per spindle than can be done with the largest European frames ;
and that they can be managed by two attendants, one on each side.
Winding, which ten years ago cost by piece-work one dollar per
pound, costs now forty-five cents ; the girls earning more than at old
prices before the improvements. A new Swiss machine, just intro-
duced, reduces the cost of warping from ten cents to five cents. The
old machines, moved by hand, contained eighty bobbins; the new
one, moved automatically, contains three hundred. A new loom for
weaving hat ribbons makes two hundred and fifty shots in a minute ;
each loom is independent, making from thirty-six to fifty yards per

day, and one girl tends eight looms.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, 107

But the most notable improvement is the absolutely successful
achievement of weaving the very highest class of dress gros-grains,
black and colored, by power. This has been accomplished by the
Messrs. Simon, at Union, New Jersey, about fifteen miles from Pater-
son. Mr. Simon, educated as a civil engineer in the technical schools
of Europe, has combined the various improvements observed by him
abroad and in this country into an automatic loom ; upon which, with
the attendance of a boy of twelve or fourteen years old, sixteen yards
of broad gros-grain silks may be woven per day, — the cost being
eleven cents per yard. The production of eighty looms in this estab-
lishment has this average. We are assured that no first-class goods
are woven abroad by power. These goods can therefore be made
more cheaply here than at Lyons. These looms, with their products,
won the admiration of our associate. Mr. Gebhard, who remarked
"that he had never seen such goods made upon power-looms, and
had no idea that such work could be performed automatically."

Silk Braids, Trimmings, and Laces. — This department of the silk-
manufacture employed in 1876 two thousand seven hundred and fifty-
three operatives ; more than three-fifths were women. The founder
of this branch of industry in the United States — if, indeed, he may
not claim to be the pioneer of the industry as a whole — was William
H. Horstmann, who, having learned the trade of silk-weaving in
France, established himself in Philadelphia, in 1815, as a manufacturer
of silk trimmings. In 1824 he introduced from Germany the use
of plaiting- or braiding-machines; and, in 1825, the use of the first
Jacquard loom employed in this country. By means of the various
improvements introduced by him and his successors, his sons and
grandsons, the house of William H. Horstmann & Sons has become
one of the largest in the silk-manufacture now existing in this coun-
try. Its vast warehouses and sale-rooms in Philadelphia bewilder
the eye with the number and variety of fabrics; including, indeed, the
whole range of narrow textile fabrics. — ^bindings, braids, fringes, dress
trimmings, coach and military equipments, theatrical goods, gold and
silver laces, and embroideries. Two other large houses in Philadel-
phia, viz., J. C. Graham and Homer, Colladay, & Co., vie with the
older house in the production of this class of goods. Their houses
were established about 1850. These manufacturers have most con-
tributed to give Philadelphia its reputation as the chief seat of the
general manufacture of trimmings in the Ignited States. In New
York, the present house of J. Maidhoff & Co. was established in the
manufacture of dress trimmings in 1849. ^" ^^^ ^*fy» Louis Franke
is also prominently identified with the manufacture of silk fringes,

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I08 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

cords, and tassels. In Connecticut, Tobias Kohn, of Hartford, now
president of the Novelty Weaving and Braid Works, established the
manufacture of gimps, fringes, and tassels as early as 1848. An ex-
pert in this department of the silk fabrication observes that "the home
manufacturers so fully supply the demands for the dress-trimming
trade that there are very few colored dress and cloak trimmings im-
ported. The variety of patterns for sale at the trimming-stores is so
great that ladies find no difficulty in perfectly matching the color of
their dresses. While thus meeting all the requirements of taste, the
American fringes and trimmings are in general of the best material.
Being made of pure silk, they will usually outlast the garment they
ornament. They contrast in this respect with imported goods of
similar appearance, but made from inferior silk, and hence apt to fade
by exposure, or to wear out and fall off. Greater care in the processes
by which they are made has also contributed to the notable superi-
ority of American trimmings."

The manufacture of silk laces by means of the most modern and
approved European machinery has been undertaken on a large scale,
with high success, by A. G. Jennings, of the Nottingham Lace- Works,
Brooklyn, New York; the machines made in England having cost
over one hundred thousand dollars. The products of the works are
principally silk guipure laces, and black thread and silk blonde laces
for trimmings, Brussels spot-net and grenadine veilings, silk purling
for trimmings, and silk-lace ties and scarfs. It is claimed that the lace
goods are superior to those ordinarily imported, from being made of
pure silk. The exhibit of these goods at Philadelphia received an
award for excellent fabrication, and for " illustrating an important
manufacture just introduced into the United States by the exhibitor."

General Observations. — Having considered the characteristics of
the three leading departments of the silk-manufacture in this country,
our remaining observations must apply to the industry as a whole. It
is believed that, as a whole, American silk machinery, in efficiency, is
equal, and in some respects superior, to that abroad. As to our fabrics,
first in acknowledged excellence are our machine-twists and sewing-
silks, articles of first necessity in the manufacture of boots, shoes, and
clothing, and in the household economy of every home. The machine-
twists are produced of such quality and at such prices as entirely to
prevent the importation of foreign twists, and sewing-silks are im-
ported only to satisfy the lingering prejudice against domestic pro-
ductions. Our spun-silk fabrics have no foreign rivals, in quality and
prices. In ribbons, we supply two-thirds of the demand of our own

market, and in plain goods can fairly compete in quality with the

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, 109

products of St. Etienne. In trimmings, even with their infinite diver-
sity, there is no article made abroad which is not or.may not be repro-
duced here. In broad silks, each of the last five years has seen the
achievement of some new fabric, advancing from millinery to dress
silks, overcoming all the difficulties of Jacquard weaving, and thence
to brocade and damask silks. Our manufacturers have in the last
year seen accomplished, on a large scale, the fabrication of colored
and black gros-grain dress-silks, which are pronounced, not by the
makers, but by rival manufacturers, to be absolutely equal in quality,
while cheaper in price, to the very best imported silks. We are still,
however, far from the position in the silk-manufacture to which we
should aspire. In the higher fabrics, we are wanting in originality
and a national character of design. The widest field for artistic
work, that of the fabrication of upholstery stufTs, is almost wholly un-
explored. We have made no bolting-cloths, have done nothing in
velvets, and still allow the silk plushes for hats (so enormously con-
sumed here) to be made abroad. With all the excellences of our
machinery, we are too dependent upon foreign workmen for skill in
manipulation. Technical and art schools, which shall develop native
taste and skill, can alone give a national character to the higher fabrics
of this industry.

These general observations cannot be more appropriately closed
than by a summary of the American production, as furnished by that
model industrial institution, the Silk Association of America :

VALUE OF PRODUCTS, CLASSIFIED BV ARTICLES, MANUFACTURED IN
THE YEAR ENDING DECEMBER 31, 1876.

Tram .

Organzine .

Spun silk .

Fringe-silk .

Floss-silk .

Sewing-silk

Machine-twist

Dress goods

Millinery and tie silks

Women*s and men's scarfs

Handkerchiefs .

Foulards

Ribbons

Laces .

Coach laces

Veils and veiling

Silk hose .

Braids and bindings

13 «93

Pounds.

Value.

369,132

12,768,490

184,567

1,614,961

140,000

805,000

33.862

203,172

5,488

35^28

82,895

951,460

468,916

6,301.059

1.350,535

1,679,166

119,946

927,000

472.000

4,526,556

220,000

24,500

16,518

3,200

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no INTERNATIOh

Military trimmings ....
Upholstery trimmings .' . . .
Ladies' dress trimmings

TAL EXHIBITl

Pounds.
1,144,860
140,000

'ON, 1876.

Pounds.

Value
128,000
526,036
3,705,076

Total products, 1876 .

Reeled silk consumed .
Spun silk consumed

. 1,284,860

Value.
111,874,570
805,000

26,593,103

Total silk threads
Consumed in sewings and twist .

1,284,860
551,8"

12,679,570
7,252,519

"2,679,570

Consumed in weaving . . . .

733,049

15,427,051

^13,913,533

The American Exhibits of Silk. — Although much material fur-
nished by the Exhibition has be6n incorporated in the preceding
pages, the features of the display of products of the silk-industry at
the Exhibition demand a special notice.

The position accorded to the American silk exhibits was an ex-
ceedingly advantageous one. Instead of being thrust on one side or
into a corner, it had the post of honor at the east end of the Main
Building, on the central aisle ; and thus naturally attracted the first
attention of the visitors who made a systematic survey of the Exhi-
bition. The show-cases in which the goods were displayed exhibited
the good taste so peculiarly requisite in this industry. Although
various in construction and ornamentation, there was a general resem-
blance, which gave agreeable unity to the display. Inside the cases
some of the goods (as those of spooled silk) were arranged in archi-
tectural devices, giving the effect of towers, domes, and arches. In
others, the richness of fabrics alone sufficed to give brilliancy to the
displays. The arrangement of the dyed silks, so as to give prismatic
effects, was peculiarly attractive. No visitor could fail to feel that, if
this exhibit had been wanting, the American display of textiles would
have lost its chief charm, and American patriotism one great source
of its complacency. In Machinery Hall, and in the Women's Pa-
vilion, different processes of the silk-manufacture were illustrated, on
a large scale, by several different manufacturers. The actual operations
of reeling, twisting, spooling, and weaving — in some cases by the
Jacquard attachment — gave delight and instruction to curious throngs.
The newest American machinery — especially the "two-decker'* spin-
ning-frame, constructed by the Danforth Locomotive & Machine
Company, containing winder, doubler, spinner, and reeler in one —
attracted the admiration of experts.

These exhibits were equally surprising to foreign visitors and to

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX. m

our own people. High tributes have already come back to us from
abroad: the French publicist, Jules Simonin; the Swiss Commis-
sioner-General at the Exhibition; and a well-instructed writer in
a paper published in Macclesfield, the headquarters of the English
silk-industry^, — having pointed out the exhibits at Philadelphia as
proofs of the competition which their countrymen must expect in this
country.

Having given the names of the principal foreign exhibitors in this
department, we cannot do less for our own countrymen. In describ-
ing the exhibits, to avoid any possibility of error, the writer has
adopted substantially the language of the official awards. The ex-
hibitors are grouped according to the departments they pursue, and
are named irrespectively of merit, — no numerical scale of excellence
being admitted by the rules of the Exhibition :

J. H. Hayden & Son, Windsor Locks, Conn.

Slack and medium twist, of great brilliancy, strength, and regu-
larity.

M. Heminway & Son, Watertoivn, Conn,

Machine- and sewing-silks, perfect in quality of material, color, and'
workmanship.

Holland Manufacturing Co.. Willimantic, Conn,

Machine-twist and sewing-silks ; highly meritorious for the excellent
quality of raw material, and the preparation for the various purposes.

Seavey, Foster, & Bowman, Boston, Mass.
Sewing-silks, of great uniformity and general excellence.

Belding Brothers & Co., RockvUle, Conn.

Machine- and sewing-silks, of good color, strength, smoothness, and
quality.

AuB, Hackenburg, & Co., PhiladelpJda, Pa.

Sewing- and embroidery-silks, meritorious for great beauty and
brilliancy of color ; button-hole twist and saddler's silk highly com-
mendable.

Nonotuck Silk Co., Florence, Mass.

Sewing-silks and machine-twist ; great superiority as to strength
and regularity, evincing extreme care in the manufacture.

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£12 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

S. M. Meyenberg, Paterson^ N. %

Millinery silks and upholstery satins, of superior quality and finish ;
ladies* scarfs, of excellent color and design.

John N. Stearns & Co., New York, N. K

Brocade silks, of superior styles and quality; twilled silks, well
made, and meritorious in every respect

Dexter, Lambert, & Co., Paterson, N. %

Millinery silks, well made, and of good colors; brocade silks, of
excellent manufacture.

Cheney Brothers, Hartford and Sojith Manchester^ Conn,

Spun silk, in every form, perfectly manipulated ; piece goods and
ribbons made thereof, evincing a high degree of excellence.

New York Woven Label Manufacturing Company, New York, N Y.

Woven silk labels and facsimile of signature of Declaration of
Independence, of good execution.

Frederic Baare, Paterson, N, y.

Black figured silks, made in an improved and superior manner;
millinery goods, of good manufacture.

Hamil & Booth, Paterson, N. y.

Figure, dress, and millinery silks, plain satins, serges, and silk
ribbons, of excellent manufacture and material.

Werner, Itschner, & Co., Philadelphia, Pa,

Faille, fancy, and Jacquard ribbons, of very good manufacture both
as to color and combination of material.

B. B. Tilt & Son, Paterson, N y.

Brocade silks and handkerchiefs, of superior quality and workman-
ship.

William Strange & Co., Paterson, N. y

Plain and fancy ribbons, of good materials, well made in every
respect; silk and millinery ribbons, of great beauty and superior
quality.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, uj

Louis Franke, New York, N. K

Silk fringes, dress trimmings, and tassels, of the best material,
excellent in style and manufacture.

SuTRO Brothers, New York, N, Y.
Braids of great regularity and excellent manufacture.

Dale Manufacturing Company, Paterson, N. %

Silk and mohair braids, fancy cords and trimmings, of great beauty
and excellent workmanship.

William H. Horstmann & Sons, PhUadelphia, Pa.

Dress, carriage, and upholstery trimmings, of g^eat excellence and
beauty in style, material, and execution.

A. G. Jennings, Nottingham Lace Works, Brooklyn, N Y,

Guipure, cashmere, and other lace and trimmings and net goods,
of excellent fabrication.

Wei DM ANN & Greppo, Paterson, N. y.

Black and colored dyed silk ; compares well with the production of
the best European establishments.

Exhibits of American Cocoons and Raw Silk. — ^Although we
have waived the consideration of the foreign products of raw silk, the
only two American exhibits of this material were so interesting and
instructive that they deserve an extended notice. While the silk-cul-
ture has ceased in all the older States, it has recently been attempted,
with sanguine hopes of success, in California and Kansas.

The planting of mulberries for the feeding of silk-worms was first
undertaken at San Jose, California, in 1856, by M. Prevost, a botanist
from Normandy, France ; but the public attention was then so occu-
pied with gold mining that the trees were unsalable, and M. Prevost
abandoned their culture. A small number of trees was also planted
by a Swiss gentleman, — M. Mueller, of San Jose, — who, in 1861. im-
ported a few silk-worm eggs. The worms raised were fed upon the
trees before planted, and the results obtained were so excellent as to
revive the interest of M. Prevost, who recommenced the planting of
mulberries and raising of silk-worms, which he continued until the
time of his death, in 1869; he having in the mean time distributed

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H4 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

silk-worm eggs, gratuitously, to persons in various parts of the State.
The interest in sericulture thus became so general in the State that
the Legislature of California provided by law that a bounty of $2^0
should be paid for every 5000 newly-planted mulberry-trees, and ^300
for every 100,000 cocoons produced in California. The object of the
law was defeated by the planting by speculators, for the bounty, of
several millions of the worthless multicaulis mulberry, and the law
was repealed. In 1866, Mr. Joseph Neumann, of German birth, im-
ported machinery for the fabrication of silk, and invented a reeling-
machine for winding the raw silk from the cocoons. In 1867 he
reeled the first skein of raw silk produced in California. In 1869 he
produced 130 pounds of raw silk, and made from it two large flags, —
one of which he presented to the State, and the other to the National
Government. Meeting, like most pioneers, with but little commercial
success in his attempts to manufacture silk, he finally abandoned the
fabrication for the production and reeling of raw silk. His very large
exhibit of cocoons and raw silk, and his exhibition of worms feeding
and in different stages of growth, attracted great interest, and received
from the expert Judges the following award : " A very good collec-
tion of cocoons and raw silk, of a variety of races, highly commend-
able for the successful attempts in the introduction of this important
branch of industry."

The statements made by Mr. Neumann to the Judges, in regard
to inducements for sericulture in California, were so interesting and
important that they deserve a wider publication.

He regards California as better adapted for the silk-culture than
almost any country in the world. He said, in regard to climate, that —

** The mulberry-trees in most parts of the State grow ten months in
the year (from February to the end of November) ; so that worms can
generally be fed uninterruptedly. Spring, summer, and fall are un-
commonly dry, consequently the food of the worms is dry. The
mulberry-tree throws out new branches and leaves four times a year,
and worms can be fed from the fifteenth day with branches. In some
localities in California trees five years old surpass those of fifteen
years in Europe. The leaves are much larger, also, and one can
gather six or eight times as much as in Europe in the same time.
Thunder-.storms do not occur during the feeding-season, and the
worms consequently are not disturbed. The dryness of our atmo-
sphere prevents the remains of the leaves which the worms do not
consume from decaying, and the beds need not be cleaned more than
twice in a season. We have proved that the cocoons enlarge from
year to year.'*

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP IX, 115

In Kansas, sericulture has been attempted by E. V. de Boissiere, a
French gentleman of means, who has set his heart upon surrounding
his chosen home with a colony of operatives employed in the silk-
culture and manufacture. He has built a mill for the manufacture of
silk goods, and is confident that the silk to supply it will be produced
in his neighborhood. His exhibits of raw silk and cocoons at Phila-
delphia were conclusive as to the favorable influences of the soil and
climate of Kansas for sericulture. The remarkable character of the
cocoons exhibited by M. de Boissiere so much impressed Mr. Le Bou-
tillier, one of the American Judges of silk in Group IX., that he re-
quested Mr. Hayami Kenzo, of Japan, a member of the group specially
expert in raw silk, to give him his personal observations. Mr. Kenzo
thus replies, in a note to Mr. Le Boutillier, now before the writer :

" Having examined the cocoons from Kansas, we marked them as
good as the best cocoons from France, Italy, and Japan. Having a
doubt as to the correctness of our judgment, I looked them over again
with great care, and came to the same conclusion as we had before.
I suppose the mulberry-trees are cultivated in very rich soil, and,
being not so old, are especially suited for feeding silk- worms. The
chrysalids are large and healthy, and several have been almost en-
tirely transformed into butterflies. The best silks in good weights
will be obtained from these cocoons."

It is obvious that a protective duty on raw silk for the general en-
couragement of sericulture in this country would not be justified.
The culture offers no prospects of success, except in a few favorable
localities ; and a duty on the raw material would be oppressive to the
manufacture. The question of encouraging the silk culture by legis-
lative provisions addresses itself only to the governments of the States
which are specially adapted by soil and climate to this culture. The
American Judges in Group IX. were so impressed by the exhibits
and facts presented by Mr. Neumann and M. de Boissiere, that they
were prepared to indorse memorials which might be addressed by
these gentlemen to Legislatures of their respective States, asking
for bounties on silk productions. The members of the group, how-
ever, separated without taking more definite action in this matter.

In concluding the report on wool, we gave the yearly production
throughout the world. We cannot do less for the more costly mate-
rial. The following statement, prepared by Mr. Franklin Allen, is
believed to be a near approximation to the yearly production of raw
silk in the several silk-producing countries of the world at the present
time :

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Il6 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

Chyia and Chinese Empire $92,928,000

Japan ■ . . . 19,800,000

Persia, Turkistan, etc 6,250,000

Syria and Asia Minor 8,500,000

Italy 59,250,000

France 31,246,800

Turkey in Europe 7,920,000

Spain and Portugal 1,884,000

Greece 1,087,000

Morocco 300,000

Austria- Hungary 3,087,600

India 35,200,000

America 100,000

$267,553,400

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REPORTS ON AWARDS.

GROUP IX.

I. M. Q. Diena, fa Jacob, Spilimberto, near Modena, luly.

SILK COCOONS AND RAW SILK.

Report, — ^A veiy fine exhibit of cocoons ; also very elastic and clear grdges of great beauty.

2. £. Meyer & Co., Milan, Italy.

RAW SILK.

Report, — Raw and thrown silks, of remarkable quality, both as to regularity, purity, and
elasticity.

3. Ibrahim Bogdanof-Teregoulof, Tiflis, Russia.

SILK COCOONS.

Report, — ^A variety of silk cocoons, principally of new races, showing great care, and
worthy of commendation for successful efforts in introducing this new branch of industry.

4. E. V. de Boissiere, Williamsburg, Kansas, U. 8.

SILK COCOONS.

Report, — Commended for successful attempts to raise silk-worms, and for cocoons of
good quxdity.

5. Baumann Aelter & Co., Zurich, Switzerland.

SILKS.

Report. — Commended for a high degree of perfection as to texture, regularity, beauty,
and finish in fine goods.

6. Antonio Pascual & Co., Reus, Tarragona, Spain.

BLACK SILKS.

Report, — Black silks of good manufacture, color, and finish.

7. Sons of Ofiate, Valencia, Spain.

RAW SILK AND COCOONS.

Report, — An excellent assortment of silk cocoons and raw silk, entitled to the highest
commendation.

8. Faustino Martinez, Seville, Spain.

RAW SILKS.

Report, — A very good show of cocoons; also excellent raw silk of great purity and
elasticity.

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n8 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

9. Bmelianof & Rochefbrt, Moscow, Russia.

SILK AND WOOL DRESS GOODS.

Report, — A fine assortment of fancy dress goods, silk and wool, in rich qualities and
tasteful combinations.

10. Zolotaref & Ribakof, Moscow, Russia.

WORSTED AND SILK DRESS GOODS.

Report. — ^A great variety of fancy dress goods of worsted and silk, in very tasteful styles
and at moderate prices.

II. A. & W. Sapojnikoff, Moscow, Russia.

DAMASKS OF SILK AND SILVER AND GOLD.

Report, — ^A superb display of the richest silk and gold and silver brocades, unrivaled in
cveiy respect.

12. Sergius Zoobkof, Khomootovo, Moscow, Russia.

PLAIN SILKS.

Report, — G^lored failles of rich quality, excellent material, and great brilliancy; high
degree of merit.

13. Alexis Fomitchef, Moscow, Russia.

SILKS.

Report, — Rich figured failles and silk cashmeres of great beauty and taste.

14. Pokrovsky Sisterhood of Charity, Moscow, Russia.

SILK COCOONS.

Report, — ^A good display of silk cocoons of fine quality.

15. Kondrashef Brothers, Grebenevo, Moscow, Russia.

SILK GOODS.

Report, — G}mmended for plain black and colored failles, excellent in color ^d manu-
facture ; also for very well made upholstery damasks.

16. J. H. Van Bellingen & Max Suremont, Antwerp, Belgium.

BLACK SILKS.

Report, — Commended for superiority of manufacture, fast colors, and splendid effects.

17. Woldemar Wimmer, Annaberg, Germany.

GOLD AND SILVER BRAIDS.

Report, — A very creditable assprtment of silk and gold braids and galoons.

18. Escales & Hatry, Saargemiind, Germany.

BLACK SILK PLUSHES.

Report, — Hatters' black silk plushes of remarkable perfection in color and finish

19. Gressard & Co., Hilden, Germany.

SILK FOULARDS.

Report, — A superb assortment of well-finished foulards and handkerchiefs.

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GROUP IX. 119

20. Carl Mez & Sons, Freiburg, Baden, Germany.

SEWING SILK.

Report, — ^An assortment of colored and black sewing silk, of great brilliancy in color
and finish.

21. Farriols dt Son, Barcelona, Spain.

BLACK SILKS.

Report, — ^A great variety of black cashmere silks in fine grades, of excellent manufacture
in every respect.

22. Benito Malrehy, Barcelona, Spain.

SILK DAMASKS AND BROCADES.

Report, — ^A great variety of curtain and furniture silk damasks, brocades, and trim*
mings, of good colors and excellent manufacture.

23. Eduardo Reig & Co., Barcelona, Spain.

SILK CRAVATS AND FICHUS.

Report, — Good assortment of silk neck-handkerchiefs, well made, and very effective for
the price.

24. S. Riitschi 9l Co., Zurich, Switzerland.

SILK GOODS.

Report, — Black and colored fabrics at very moderate prices, showing great care in the
manufacture ; the satin du chene particularly well made.

25. Ryffel dt, Co., St«fa and Zurich, Switzerland.

SILKS.

Report, — ^The marcelines (satinets) exhibited are superior in texture, color, and finish, and
can scarcely be excelled.

26. Emil Schserer & Co., Zurich, Switzerland.

SILKS.

Report. — Commended for good taste in style and coloring, and for stripes which are
very regular in the manufacture, and show great progress.

27. J. Schwarzenbach-Landis, Thalweil, near Zurich, Switzerland.

SILKS.

Report, — Colored failles and changeables of great regularity and beauty, at moderate
pric^, well adapted for the best markets.

28. Job. Supfer*8 Sons, Horgen, Zurich, Switzerland,

SILKS.

Report. — An exhibit of great merit, evincing considerable progress in the manufacture of
plain, striped, and checked silk goods of perfect taste, at low prices.

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I20 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

29. StlLnsi Bl Sons, Horgen, Zurich, SwitserUnd.

8ILK GOODS.

^<»^tfr^.— Cotton-back satins, which in price compare favorably with the best products
of other countries.

30. Jansen, Bodek, & HerU, Riesbach, near Zurich, Switzerland.

SILK GOODS.

Report, — Good styles of cravat materials at low prices.

31. Y. Tamamura, Ishi-i-mura, Shimodsuke, Japan.

RAW SILK.

Report. — ^Veiy good specimens of raw silk of excellent quality, carefully prepared.

32. M. lyiarunaka, Kanaxawa, Kaga, Japan.

RAW SILK.
Report, — ^Very superior raw silk.

33. Yo. Suzuki, Yamura, Kai, Japan.

PLAIN SILKS.

Report. — Plain, colored, and checked silks, well woven and of good appearance.

34. Yamamoto Kinu, Susakamura, Shinano, Japan.

SILKS.

Report, — ^Two productions of silks made from the cocoons of new silk-worms feeding on
the native walnut; highly interesting.

35, Y. Nakagawa, Kiyoto, Japan.

SILK CRAPES.

Report, — Excellent specimens of white silk crapes, perfect in color, and of great solidity.

36. 8. Nishimura, Kiyoto, Japan.

SILK CRAPES.

Report, — Dyed and printed silk crapes, excellent in color and execution, principally the
shaded specimens.

37. Y. Shibata, Hakata, Chikusen, Japan.

SILK GOODS.

Report, — Silks for ladies' scarfs, of perfect manufacture.

38. 8. Tomiu, Kiyoto, Japan.

GAUZES.

Report. — ^Well-made silk gauzes, commendable for their low pnoe.

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GROUP IX, 121

39. Captain Luiz Ribeiro de Souza Rezende, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

RAW SILK AND COCOONS.
Report. — A variety of specimens of cocoons and raw silk, of great beauty and excellence,
both as to the nature of the silk and its preparation, and meriting high commendation for
the introduction of this important branch of industry.

40. Antonio Luiz dos Santos Reis, Piratinim, Brazil.

RAW SILKS.
Report. — Commended for successful experiments in raw silks.

41. H. Kono, Chikuma- Ken, Japan.

SILKS.

Report. — Samples of silk, natural color, from the silk of the worm feeding on the oak ;
new and very remarkable.

42. Dr. Nicolau J. Moreira, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

SILK COCOONS.

Report. — A highly curious specimen of a new silk-worm feeding on forest trees.

43. David Josi da Silva & Son, Oporto, Portugal.

DAMASK OF SILK AND GOLD.
Report. — Gold and silver damasks, for church purposes and upholstery, of good design
and excellent manufacture.

44. Viuva Ferreira Campos & Co., Oporto, Portugal.

GOLD BROCADES AND MILITARY TRIMMINGS.

Report. — Gold brocades, and silk and silver cloth, in good taste and of excellent manu-
facture ; gold and silver military trinmiings in great variety, and well made.

45. Jacintho P. Valverde Miranda Vasconcellos, Oporto, Portugal.

RAW SILK.

Report. — Raw silk of excellent quality in every respect.

46. F. Cabral Paes & Sons, Vizeu, Portugal.

RAW SILK AND COCOONS.

Report. — ^Very fine silk cocoons, and silk spun thereof; quality and preparation highly
commendable.

47. Josi Antonio Reis, Moncorvo, Bragan9a, Portugal.

RAW SILK.

Report. — Raw silk of great fineness, excellent spinning, and general effect.

48. SimSo Ribas, Guarda, Portugal.

RAW SILK.

Report. — A fine exhibit of very well spun tram, of great pureness and tenacity.

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1 2 2 REPOR TS ON A WARDS,

49. Antonio de Sa Pereira, Sta. Maria, Bragan9a, Portugal.

RAW SILK.

Report, — Raw silk of excellent quality, as to the natural tenacity, and of very regular
preparation.

50. National Silk Spinning and Weaving Co., Lisbon, Portugal.

RAW COCOONS AND SILK UPHOLSTERY GOODS.

Report* — ^A very fine show of silk cocoons ; also raw silk of excellent quality and silk
upholsteiy goods of good manufacture and excellent design.

51. S. Trebitsch & Son, Vienna, Austria.

BLACK SILKS AND CRAVATS.

Report, — Black silks and silk cravats, well made, of good color and appearance, and
from their low price adapted for a large consumption.

$2. Carl Hetser & Sons, Vienna, Austria.

SILK VELVETS.

Report, — Black and colored silk velvets, cotton back, made two pieces together, of
good manufacture and excellent result.

53. C. Q. Hombostel & Co., Vienna, Austria.

SILKS AND SILK AND COTTON GOODS.

Report, — Fancy silks and mixed fabrics of good design and effect.

54. F. Reichert's Sons, Vienna, Austria.

SILK VELVETS AND SILK GOODS.

Report, — Colored and black velvets and silks of excellent manufacture; specialty of
white velvet of great purity.

55. Pilippo Dalla Pozza, Vicenza, luly.

RAW SILK.

Report. — Very fine and well-spun raw silk, very clean, and of great tenacity and elasticity.

56. Ugolino Chiericoni, Messina, Italy.

SILK COCOONS.
Report, — Silk cocoons of great beauty and superb quality.

57. I^opoldo Cagliani, Milan, luly.

SILK VELVETS.

Report, — Silk colored velvets of good color and very creditable manufacture.

58. Alberto Keller, Milan, Italy.

RAW SILK.

Report, — Raw silk of great superiority in every respect.

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GROUP IX. 123

59. Brede Salomon Sinigaglia and Lattes, Turin, Italy

RAW SILK.

Report, — ^An excellent show of raw silk of remarkable purity, perfect in preparation.

60. Madame Blbis, Constantinople, Turkey.

SILK EMBROIDERY.

Report. — Curiously-wrought silk embroidery, showing great skill and taste.

61. Nicholas Bolad, Damascus, Turkey.

STRIPED AND FTOURED SILKS.

Report, — Striped and figured silks, of good taste in good colors and combination of
materials.

62. Bmanuel G. Marridas, Kiopler, near Brousse, Turkey.

RAW SILK.

Report. — A remarkable display of white and yellow raw silk of great beauty and
tenacity.

63. Gondard, Cirlot, & Martel, Lsrons, France.

FOULARDS.

Report. — Commended for the elegance of design, brilliancy of colors, and general good
taste of printed foulards. '

64. B. P. Schilizzi, Adrianople, Turkey.

RAW SILK.

Report. — ^Very fine, clean, and strong white and yellow raw silk.

65. Merouk Oglou, Brousse, Turkey.

SILK GOODS.

Report. — Very well made, and of good texture.

66. Hu Kwang Yung, Hang Chow, China.

PLAIN SILKS. .

Report. — Plain colored satins of excellent manufacture and superior finish.

67. K. A. Almgren, Stockholm, Sweden.

SILKS.

Report. — Colored failles, very well made from the best material, and of brilliant lustre.

68. Fy Cheong, Canton, China.

FANCY AND PLAIN SILKS.
Report. — A very fine exhibit of colored and figured silk goods, showing marked improve-
ments over former productions.

69. Hadji Hakim Brothers, Aleppo, Turkey.

SILK GOODS.
Report. — While and gold damask of beautiful workmanship.

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124 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

70. Imperial Silk Manufactory of Hierek6, Turkey.

SILK FABRICS.

Report. — A superb display of rich brocade silks, excellent in design, color, and execnlion.

71. Esute of Bir-Abu, Bellach, Egypt.

SILK COCOONS.

Report. — An exhibit of cocoons of great beauty and excellent natnre of silk.

72. Giovanni Tramontina, Cairo, Egypt.

RAW SILK AND COCOONS.

Report. — ^A fine exhibit of cocoons and specimens of raw silk of great regularity and
tenacity, conunendable especially on account of the difficulties of this new branch of
industry.

73. Audibert, Monin, & Co., Lyons, France.

SILKS AND POPLINS.

Report. — Well-made black Sicilicnnes of great regularity and beauty of texture.

74. Jandin & Duval, Lyons, France.

FOULARDS.

Report. — ^A great display of plain, figured, and printed foulards, elegant in design, taste,
and execution.

75. J. P. Million & Servier, Lsrons, France.

SILK GOODS AND VELVETS.

Report. — Commended for superiority of manufacture of black silk velvets and colored
silk goods.

76. Alex. Giraud & Co., Lyons, France.

SILK GOODS.

Report. — Umbrella silks, of good color and manufacture.

77. Gillet & Son, Lyons, France.

DYED SILKS.

Report. — Fine assortment of black-dyed silk, of superior shade and excellent workman-
ship ; can scarcely be excelled.

78. Thomas Brothers, Avignon, France.

RAW SILK.

Report, — Bright China tram and organzine, of very good quality and excellent preparatinr .

79. Jules Chabert & Co., Chomerac (Ard^che), France.

RAW SILK.

Report. — Commended for French tram of great regularity and remarkable elasticity;
also for Bengal organzine of excellent preparation.

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GROUP IX. 125

So. Louis Boudon, Saint-Jean-du-Gard, France.

RAW SILK.

Report. — A remarkable exhibition of white and yellow raw silk, of extraordinary fine-
ness, purity, and great regularity.

81. ArUs-Dufour, L3ron8, France.

RAW SILK.

Report. — A fine assortment of French raw silks of great beauty, and China organdne of
great regularity and neatness.

82. Jurie & Co., Lyons, France.

VELVETS AND SILKS.

Report. — A great variety of very well made black and colored plain silk velvets and
dress silks.

83. Antoine Guinet & Co., Lyons, France.

BLACK SILKS.

Report. — Black silks, very effective in appearance, in low and medium grades.

84. J. Boquet & Co., Amiens, France.

SILK VELVETS.

Report. — Utrecht velvets in fine qualities and beautiful colors.

85. Weidmann & Greppo, Paterson, N. J., U. S.

DYED SILK.

Report. — Commended for excellent production of black and colored dyed silk, comparing
well with the best European establbhments.

86. New York Woven Label Manufacturing Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

WOVEN SILK LABELS.

Report. — ^Woven silk labels of very good execution.

87. J. H. Hayden & Son, Windsor Locks, Conn., U. S.

SEWING SILK.

Report. — Slack and medium twist sewing silk of great brilliancy, strength, and regularity.

88. Joseph Neumann, San Francisco, Cal., U. S.

RAW SILK AND SILK COCOONS.

Report. — ^A very good collection of cocoons and raw silk of a variety of races, highly
commendable for the successful attempts in the introduction of this important branch of
industry.

89. M. Heminway & Sons Silk Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

SEWING SILK. ,

Report. — A full assortment of colored and black machine and sewing silks, perfect in
quality of material, color, and workmanship

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126 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

90. Dale Manufacturing Co., Paterson, N. J., U. S.

SILK, MOHAIR, AND FANCY BRAIDS.

Report. — A very fine dbplay of silk and mohair braids, fancy cords and trimmings, of
great beauty and excellent workmanship.

91. Sutio Brothers, New York, N. Y., U. S.

SILK AND COTTON BRAIDS.

Report, — Braids of great regularity and excellent manufacture.

92. Louis Franke, New York, N. Y., U. S.

SILK FRINGES AND BRAIDS.

Report, — Silk fringes, dress trimmings, and tassels, made of the best material, excellent
in style and manufacture.

93. Holland Manufacturing Co., Willimantic, Conn., U. S.

SEWING SILK.
Report. — Commended for a fine assortment of sewing silks of different kinds ; also machine
twist, highly meritorious for the excellent quality of raw material and the preparation for
the various purposes ; also for silk spinning and silk thread-testing machines.

94« S. M. Meyenberg, Paterson, N. J., and New York, N. Y., U. S.

SILKS AND UPHOLSTERY SATINS.

Report. — Commended for very well made millinery silks and upholstery satins, of superior
quality and finish ; also for ladies' scarfs of excellent color and design.

95. John N. Steams & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

nOURED AND TWILLED SILKS.

Report. — A handsome exhibit of brocade silks of superior styles and quality ; also twilled
silks well made, and meritorious in every respect.

96. Dexter, Lambert, ft Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

SILK GOODS.

Report. — Commended for millinery silks, well made and of good colors ; also for bro-
cade silks of excellent manufacture.

97. Cheney Bros., Hartford and South Manchester, Conn., U. S.

SILKS AND SILK RIBBONS.
Report, — Commended for perfect manipulation of spun silk in every form, and for piece
goods and ribbons manufactured thereof, evincing a high degree of excellence.

98. Frederick Baare, Paterson, N. J., U. S.

SILK GOODS.

Report. — Commended for black figured silks, made in an improved and superior manner;
also for twenty-six inch millinery goods of good manufacture.

210

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GROUP IX. 12 J

99. The Central Commission of the District of Vizeu, Vizeu, Portugal.

SILK COCOONS.
Report. — ^A very fine exhibition of raw-silk cocoons of superior quality.

100. The Imperial Ottoman Government, Consuntinople, Turkey.

COLLECTIVE EXHIBITION OF SILK GOODS.

Report. — Commended for an excellent and very complete display of the silk, gold, and
mixed fabrics of the Ottoman Empire, collected from the various places of manufacture,
and deserving the highest merit for taste and workmanship; also for a splendid display of
carpets, of great beauty of design, harmony of colors, and excellent manufacture.

loi. Pim Brothers & Co., Dublin, Ireland.

SILK AND WOVEN POPLINS.
Report. — Black and colored hand- woven plain silk poplins, excellent in every respect;
furniture damasks of superior effect and manufacture.

102. Charles A. Rickards, Leeds, England.

SEWING SILK.

Report. — Sewing silk of excellent character, both as to quality, color, and preparation.

103. Fredr. Wurm, Adelaide, South Australia, Australia.

SILK COCOONS.
Report. — A very good exhibit of cocoons, remarkable for such a short period of culture.
The yellow silk shows great tenacity, and is very clean.

104. George Thome, Sydney, New South Wales, Australia.

SILK COCOONS.

Report. — ^A good assortment of cocoons of different races; commendable, coasidering
the youth of the plantation.

105. Superintendent of Destitute Children's Asylum, Sydney, New South

Wales, Australia.

SILK COCOONS.

Report. — ^A fine show of cocoons; very creditable as first essays.

106. Mrs. Bladen NeiU, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

RAW SILK AND COCOONS.

Report. — A good exhibit of raw silk and cocoons, highly creditable from the fact (hat
this branch of industry has only lately been introduced. The raw silk, particularly from
the reproduction of Japanese and Grenoble cocoons, has great elasticity.

107. Sheldon & Fenton, London, England.

SEWING SILKS.

Report, — Sewing silks of excellent quality and brilliant colors, in a variety of shades.

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128 * REPORTS ON AWARDS.

io8. Wm. Milner 9l Sons, Leek, Staffordshire, England.

SEWING SILKS.

Report, — Sewing silks of excellent appearance for the prices quoted.

109. Mrs. Ann Timbrell, Collingwood, Victoria, Australia.

RAW-SILK COCOONS.
Report. — ^A good display of raw-sllk cocoons of a variety of races, very firm, and of good
quality.

1 10. C. F. Chubb, Ipswich, Queensland, Australia.

RAW-SILK COCOONS.

Report. — Good variety of raw-silk cocoons of different races.

f III. John McDonald, Queensland, Australia.

SILK COCOONS.

Report, — A very creditable assortment of raw-silk cocoons of good quality.

112. American Silk Label Manufacturing Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

WOVEN SILK LABELS.

Report. — A well-woven fac-simile of the signatures to the Declaration of Independence.

113. Hamil & Booth, Patcrson, N. J., and New York, N. Y., U. S.

PLAIN AND FIGURED SILKS.

Report. — ^A very fine exhibit of figured dress and millinery silks, plain satins, serges, and
silk ribbons, of excellent manufacture and material.

1 14. Werner Itschner 9t Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SILK RIBBONS.

Report, — Commended for faille, fancy, and Jacquard ribbons of very good manufacture,
both as to c<^r and to combination of material ; also for a good display of very suitable
hat-bands.

115. Seavey, Foster, ft Bowman, Boston, Mass., U. S.

SEWING SILKS.

Report. — Commended for great uniformity and general excellence in manufacture of
their sewing silks.

116. F.Thomas, Pont-des-Charrettes, France.

RAW SILKS.

Report, — ^A fine collection of cocoons and beautiful oiganzine, superior in eveiy respect

117. Font, Chambeyron, ft Benolt, Lsrons, France.

SILK VELVETS.

Report, — A fine assortment of black silk velvets of great evenness and lustre ; the blacks

beautiful.

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GROUP IX. 129

iiS. F. Brioude & Co., St. Btienne, France.

VELVET RIBBONS.

Report, — ^Black velvet ribbons of good manufacture and finish, very well made in every
respect

119. Benoit, Tabard, & Co., L3ron8, France.

UNING SILKS.

Report. — A good assortment of black and fancy lining silks, well made.

120. Belding Bros. & Co., Rockville, Conn., U. S.

MACHINE AND SEWING SILKS.

Report. — Machine and sewing silks of good color, strength, smoothness, and quality.

121. Aub, Hackenburg, A Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

MACHINE AND SEWING SILKS AND BUTTON-HOLE TWIST.

Report. — A fine exhibit of sewing and embroidery silks and machine twist; the sewing
and embroidery silks principally meritorious for great beauty and brilliancy of color; the
button-hole twist and saddlers' silk highly commendable.

122. Nonotuck Silk Co., Florence, Mass., U. S.

SEWING SILK AND SILK MACHINERY.

Report. — ^A splendid exhibit of a variety of sewing silks and machine twist of great
superiority as to strength and regularity, evincing extreme care in the manufacture; also a
fine collection of silk manufacturing machinery, embracing winding, doubling, spinning,
and reeling machines, and spool-finishing machines; the latter of very ingenious construc-
tion.

123. B. B. Tilt & Son, Paterson, N. J., U. S.

FIGURED SILKS AND SILK LOOMS.

Report. — Commended for brocade silks and handkerchiefs of superior quality and work-
manship, excellent in color and style; also for a Jacquard ribbon- weaving loom and a
figure silk loom, both of very good construction.

124. A. Hamelin Son, Paris, France.

SEWING SILK.

Report. — Sewing silk of excellent quality and manufacture; a great assortment of very
fine shades.

125. Jaubert, Audras, ft Co., Lyons, France.

BLACK SILKS.

Report. — Commended for excellence of manufacture and quality of material, and gen-
eral superiority of black silks and satins.

126. Sevtoe, Barral, & Co., Lyons, France.

SILK GOODS.

Report. — ^A good display of medium qualities ; fine shades at reasonable prices.

213

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I30 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

127. Poncety Senior ft Junior, Lyons, France.

SILKS.

AV/<;/^.— Commended for novelties in dress silks, of exqviisite taste and perfect work-
manship.

128. Faye ft Th^venin, Lyons, France.

COLORED SILK GOODS.

Report, — ^This exhibit has special merit in the superior manufacture of the plain silks as
regards quality and color.

129. C. J. Bonnet's Sons ft Co., Lyons, France.

BLACK SILKS.

Report. — Commended for unrivaled productions of black silk fabrics, showing the highest
state of perfection in silk manufacture.

130. Huber ft Co., Paris, France.

HATTE&S' SILK PLUSHES.

Report, — Hatters' black silk plushes of remarkable perfection in color and finish.

131. Gourd, Croisat Son, ft Dubost, Lyons, France.

BLACK SILKS.

Report, — Commended for excellence, in every respect, of black silks, in medium and
fine grades.

132. Qautier, Bellon, ft Co., Lyons, France.

SILK VELVETS.

Report. — A fine exhibit of plain black and colored velvets; specialty of rich goods of
superior manufacture.

133. Joseph Puydebart ft Son, Lyons, France.

RAW AND SEWING SILKS.
Report. — Sewing silks, raw and dyed, of great regularity and excellent workmanship ;
specialty of saddlers' silk of great tenacity.

134. L. Domon, Lyons, France.

SILK GAUZES FOR BOLTING-CLOTH.
Report. — Commended for extraordinary fineness and great uniformity of texture.

135. Qiron Bros., St. Etienne, France.

VELVET RIBBONS.

Report, — A great display of very well made velvet ribbons.

136. J. B. Martin, Tarare, France.

PLUSHES AND VELVETS.

Report. — Commended for superiority of manufacture, lustre, finish, r.nd quality of black
and colored plushes for hatters and milliners.

214

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GROUP IX. 131

137. Tapissier Son ft Debry, Lyons, France.

BLACK SILK.

Report, — Commended for the great care and general excellence bestowed upon the
manufacture in all its stages.

13S. Mauvemay & Co., Lyons, Prance.

SILK GOODS.

Report, — Striped and fancy silks in medium grades, creditable for the price.

139. Bresson- Agnis & Co., Lyons, France.

SILKS.

Report, — A very fine exhibition of rich damask silks ; also novelties in figured crftpe du
chine and pnnted cravats.

140. C. J. Servant ft Co., Lyons, France.

VELVETS AND SILKS.

Report. — Superior very wide black silk velvets of remarkable beauty, made of the best
raw material of their own production.

141. L. R. Gascon, Montauban, France.

SILK BOLTING-CLOTH.

Report. — Silk bolting-cloth of great regularity ; perfect in execution.

142. Bardon ft Ritton, Lyons, France.

SILKS.

Report. — A fine exhibit of colored faille and gros-grain, which, for superiority of manu-
facture, purity of material, brilliancy of color, and beauty of finish, cannot well be excelled.

143. Collective Exhibition of the Weavers of Mineyama, Province of Tango,

Japan.

SILK CRAPES.

Report. — ^A very fine assortment of white and colored silk crapes, showing great perfec-
tion, principally those marked « Ikebe.*'

144. Government Establishment for Experimental Silk- Worm Breeding, Tokio,

Japan.

RAW SILK AND COCOONS.

Report, — An excellent exhibit of raw silk and cocoons, of great regularity, evenness, and
tenacity, showing the best productions of this valuable industry, collected from the silk-
spinning establishments of Tomioka, Yamanacho, Nihoumato, Kanazawa, and Nagano.

145. Egyptian Raw Silk Company, Oporto, Portugal.

RAW SILK.

Report. — ^Very clean, strong, and elastic raw silks and sewing silks.

146. Brashnin Bros., Oriechovo-Zooevo, Moscow, Russia.

SILK GOODS.

Report. — A creditable assortment of striped and checkered dress silks.

215

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132 KEPOJ^TS ON AWARDS.

147. Local Qovemment of Tsunigaken, Japac.

PLAIN FOULARD SILK.
Report, — White foulard, excellent in quality, at a remarkably low price.

148. His Highness the Bey of Tunis, Tunis.

SILK TISSUES AND MIXED FABRICS.

Report, — A great variety of silk, silk and gold, and mixed fabrics of Tunisian manufac-
ture, all evincing great taste and excellent workmanship, and highly commendable for the
great care bestowed upon this collection.

149. Adlischweil Silk Goods Factory, Adlischweil, near Zurich, SwiUerland.

SILK GOODS.
Report, — Black and colored failles and taffetas, which are remarkably well made for tlie
price, and on that account are calculated for a large and general consumption.

150. Winterthur Silk Goods Factory, Winterthur, SwiUerland.

SILK GOODS.

Report, — A fine and varied assortment of all grades; power-loom lunbrella silks, which
are well adapted for the piupose intended ; also good black cotton-back satins.

151. Russian Government.

RAW SILK AND SILK CX)COONS.

Report. — A very fine display of raw silk and silk cocoons in great variety, all of excel-
lent quality and purity, meriting high commendation, and showing great skill and care on
the part of the Director, Mr. Lootchinsky.

152. Government Office for Experimental Silk- Worm Breeding, Tokio, Japan.

SILK-WORM BREEDING.

Report. — ^A very fine exhibit, showing the breeding of the silk-worm, with drawings,
models, samples, and implements, showing great care in its preparation.

153. The National Museum of Egypt, Cairo, Egypt.

FIGURED AND BROCADED SILKS.

Report. — ^A splendid assortment and a great variety of national manufactures of silk and
mixed fabrics, evincing great skill of workmanship and combination of colors, and meriting
the highest praise for the good taste with which this collection has been made.

154. India Museum, Kensington, London, England.

SILKS AND MIXED FABRICS.
Report, — A splendid display of Indian productions of silk and mixed fabrics of classical
taste and beauty.

155. Imperial Maritime Customs, Shanghai, China.

PLAIN AND FANCY SILKS.
Report, — A very fine collection of Chinese plain and fancy silks, highly meritorious for
the improvement in the manipulation, workmanship, and uniformity ; also an extraordinarily
fine collection of raw silk, comprising a full assortment of all the qualities produced in the
country.

216

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GROUP IX. 133

156. Collective Exhibit from the Provinces of the Ottoman Empire.

kAW SILK AND COCOONS.

Report. — An excellent display of silk cocoons and raw silk of excepticrnal ment.

157. L. J. Knowles ft Bro., Worcester, Mass., U. S.

LOOMS.

Report. — Looms of good construction and workmanship.

158. John Lang Currie, Larra, Derimallum, Victoria, Australia.

WOOL,

Report. — ^Three fleeces of lambs' and merino wool of superior quality and in good con-
dition. The lambs' wool is specially good.

159. Robert W. Scott, Franklin Co., Ky., U. S. •

WOOL.

Report. — Commended for two pelts, with wool, illustrative of fleeces from sheep claimed
to be a distinct breed, produced by the exhibitor, the wool of a fair quality for combing
purposes ; and for two excellent pelts from Angora goats.

160. William Croskey, Hopedale, Harrison County, Ohio, U. S.

WOOL.

Report. — An exhibit of twelve samples of Saxony wool, of the highest excellence.

161. Moses Stocking, Wahoo, Saunders County, Nebraska, U. S.

WOOL.

Report. — One fleece of merino rams' wool, of good weight and excellent quality.

162. Atlas Manufacturing Co., Newark, N. J., U. S.

WOOL-BURRING MACHINES.

Report, — Wool-burring machines of rapid and effective action.

163. First Hungarian Wool- Washing and Commission Co., Budapest, Austria.

WASHED WOOL.

Report. — Beautifully-washed wool, from which potash is extracted from the yolk by an
entirely new process.

164. David Smith ft Co. (Limited), Halifax, England.

FREPARED SHODDY AND WOOL.

Report. — Commended for shoddy and wool, prepared for manufacturing purposes by a
patent process, by which the burrs are completely cleaned, and for cotton and wool stuff",
prepared on the same principle.

217

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134 /REPORTS ON AWARDS.

165. The Mill Hill Wool and Rag Extracting Co. (Limited^, Huddersfield,

England.

PREPARED SHODDY AND WOOL.

Report. — Commended for shoddy and wool, prepared for manufacturing purposes by a
patent process, by which the burrs are completely cleaned, and for cotton and wool stuff,
prepared on the same principle.

166. Board of Agriculture of the State of New Hampshire, U. S.

WOOL.

Report, — An assortment of Spanish merino wool of fine fibre and good staple, adapted
for the manufacture of cassimeres, merinos, and flannels.

167. State of Oregon, U. S..

WOOL.

Report. — Some very fine specimens of merino wool of fine fibre and good staple, very
much resembling Australian wool, and giving evidence that this State can produce wool of
very great value.

16S. Province of Entre Rios, Argentine Republic.

RAW WOOL.
Report. — An assortment of small samples of fine merino wool of superior quality and
long staple.

169. Danfbrth Locomotive and Machine Co., Paterson, N. J., U. S.

SILK MACHINERY.
Report. — A collection of silk machinery, embracing winding and spinning frame for
singles and for doubling.

170. Government of the Argentine Republic.

WOOLEN MANUFACTURES.

Report. — A beautiful collection of vicufla shawls and ponchos, carpets, and ta]>estries.
Among the vicufla shawls exhibited were some especially to be mentioned, made by
Jova Madueno, Samuel A. Lafone Quevedo, of Catamarca, M. Malbran, of Catamarca,
and Teresa Luraschi, of Catamarca. The above goods are of the highest texture and
merit.

171. Chamber of Commerce of Reims, France.

COLLECTIVE EXHIBIT OF WOOLEN MANUFACTURES.
Report. — A brilliant collection of merinos, cashmeres, sateens, reps, and ecosse cloth;
plaid, white, and colored flannels ; worsted coatings, fancy cassimeres, shawls, and blankets,
all of high excellence. The finish of the merinos, and the variety and brilliancy of the
colors dyed by Delamotte and £ms( Houpin, are specially commendable.

172. Commissioners for Victoria, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

RAW WOOL.

Report. — ^Washed lambs* wool, greasy wool, and Victoria merino; all well selected and
of excellent growth and quality.

218

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GROUP IX, 135

173. C. H. Beall, Brooke County, West Virginia, U. S.

WOOL.

Report. — An admirable exhibit of fleeces of American merino wool from two bucks and
nine ewes, with a case containing thirty-three samples, all the samples being of exceptional
excellence.

174. S. A. Cockayne, Moundsville, Marshall County, West Virginia, U. S.

WOOL.

Report. — One fleece of good merino wool.

175. John Ingram, Poplar Spring, Marshall County, West Virginia, U. S.

WOOL.
Report. — ^Ten fleeces of exdiellenf merino combing and beautiful merino clothing wools.

176. Ninian Beall, Ohio County, West Virginia, U. S.

WOOL.

Report. — ^An exhibit of Saxony fleeces, two bucks and two ewes, of fineness character*
istic of the race.

177- J* J* Surber, Vienna, Austria.

REEDS AND HEDDLES FOR LOOMS.

Report. — ^A good collection of reeds and heddles for looms.

178. Faxon ft Wright, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

EXTRACT OF WOOL,

Report. — A creditable exhibit of extract of wool, prepared by a chemical process not
disclosed, together with yam made from same, illustrating the excellence and strength of
the prepared fibre.

179. Albert Bauer, Humpoletz, Austna.

WOOLEN GOODS.

Report, — ^A'good collection of well-made cloth, at low prices, for general use.

iSo. Brosset-Heckel ft Co., Lyons, France.

SATINS.

Report. — ^All silk, and silk and cotton back, black and colored satins.

181. A. Q. Jennings, Nottingham Lace Works, Brooklyn, N. Y., U. S.

SILK LACES.

Report. — Commended as an attractive exhibit of gimpure, cashmere, and other laces and
trimmings ; also for a general assortment of net goods, highly commendable for excellent
fabrication. This exhibit is noticeable as illustrative of an important manufacture just
introduced into the United States by the exhibitor.

219

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^^T▼fl^^^-'??^^^

1 36 REPOR TS ON A IVARDS,

182. James Oddy & Son, Bradford, England.

WOOLS.
Report. — A unique assortment of fleeces, admirably illustrative of the principal cHarac*
teristic wools of England.

183. Parks ft Woolson Machine Co., Springfield, Vt., U. S.

CLOTH-SHEARING AND BRUSHING MACHINES.

Report, — A cloth-shearing and a cloth-brushing machine, both of very good construction
and workmanship.

184. S. Q. Reed, Portland, Oregon, U. S.

LONG COMBING WOOL.

Report, — ^Three samples of Leicestei combing wo^I, and three samples of Cotswold
combing wool, noticeable for long staple and bright lustre.

185. SUnfield, Brown, ft Co., England.

SHOE LASTINGS.

Report, — A superb exhibit of ten numbers of lastings, especially creditable for richness
of lustre, good color, and evenness of thread.

186. Jacob Senneff, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

FLAT METALLIC EYE HEDDLE.

Report, — Commended as an improvement upon the cotton and varnished heddles, being
less liable to abrade the warp.

187. The State of Michigan, U. S.

WOOL.

Report, — A collective exhibit of samples of wool produced in the State, contributed by
one hundred and sixteen persons in ten counties, four hundred and sixty-one samples being
of merino wool and grades, and one hundred and ninety-six samples being of long combing
wool of English blood. The collection b illustrative of the high character of an annual
product of wool in the State, estimated at eight million pounds.

188. M. Wilkins, Eugene City, Lane County, Oregon, U. S.

COMBING WOOL.

Report. — An exhibit of a sample of Cotswold wool, with twelve samples of wool improved
by a series of crossing, pursued for many years, of high-bred Cotswold bucks on high-bred
Oxfordshire-down ewes, producing a combing wool retaining the length of the original
Cotswold, but with greatly increased fineness and softness, and total absence of hair.

Also for improved Oxfordshire and Leicestershire wool.

189. Peter Kosishnikof, Veliki- Oostioog, Vologda, Russia.

BRISTLES.

Report, — Commended for bristles of extraordinary lengths, adapted for the manufacture
of brushes.

220

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GROUP IX. 137

190. Tunzis Mills, Poquonnock, Conn., U. S.

COLORED WORSTED YARNS.

Report. — Commended for an admirable collection of colored wools and worsted yams, in
a great variety of colors and mixtures, adapted for both dress purposes and clothing goods,
and for excellence of dye and colors.

191. Baltic Woolen Mills, New York, N. Y., U. S.

REPELLANTS.

Report, — Medium grades of repellants, in black and colors, of good manufacture and
cheap prices.

192. Shaffner St Stringfellow, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

GERMANTOWN WOOL.

Report. — A handsome variety of Germantown wool and zephyr yams, in beautiful colors,
and very neatly made up in a special style of ball, weighing one ounce each.

193. Parrington ft Kinsey, Rahway, N. J., U. S.

EXTRACT WOOLS.

Report. — Extract wools from old garments of cotton and wool, from which the cotton is
destroyed by a chemical process without injury to the wool.

194. A. Prouvost & Co., Roubaix, France.

WOOLS.

Report. — A large assortment of prepared wools from Australia, South America, Black
Sea, Russia, France, and Belgium ; also of slivers and noils from the same, adapted to a
great variety of fabrics.

195. J. M. Kirkpatrick, Utica, Ohio, U. S.

MERINO WOOL.

Report. — Six samples of fine merino wool, of good quality and fibre.

196. Albert Quigley, Cadiz, Ohio, U. S.

MERINO WOOL.

Report. — Five samples of fine merino wool, of good quality and fibre, and adapted either
for clothing or combing purposes.

197. B. J. HUtt ft Bros., Chester Hill, Ohio, U. S.

OHIO WOOL.

Report. — ^Fleeces of excellent quality and growth of Ohio wool, well bred, and adapted
for combing.

198. Walter Craig, Cadiz, Ohio, U. 8.

WOOL.

Report. — Seventeen samples of pure merino wool, of very superior quality, and of con-
siderable merit.

221

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138 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

199. James B. Jamison, Cadiz, Ohio, U. S.

WOOL.

Report, — Eight samples of Spanish merino wool, of very superior quality and growth.

200. Henry Boyles, Cadiz, Ohio, U. 8.

MERINO WOOL.

Report, — Six samples of Spanish merino wool, of very superior quality.

201. J. M. Holmes, Short Creek, Ohio, U. 8.

MERINO WOOL.

Report, — ^Twelve samples of excellent merino wool, of good staple and fihre.

202. W. B. Law, Connotton, Ohio, U. S.

MERINO WOOL.

Report. — Thirteen samples of fine Spanish merino wool, of superfine quality and growth.

203. S. S. Campbell, Cadiz, Ohio, U. S.

WOOL.

Report. — Twenty-four samples of merino wool, of excellent quality and good staple,
well adapted for the manufacture of cashmeres and merinos.

204. Isaac Thomas, Short Creek, Ohio, U. S.

WOOL.

Report. — Twelve samples of fine merino wools, of superior quality and growth.

205. Andrew Jamison, Short Creek, Ohio, U. 8.

MERINO WOOL.

Report. — Eleven samples of fine merino wool, of considerable merit and good fibre.

206. W. O. Harrah, Cadiz, Ohio, U. S.

MERINO WOOL.

Report. — Eleven samples of pure merino wool, of superior quality and good staple.

207. M. L. Bimey, Bowerstown, Ohio, U. S.

WOOL.
Report. — Twelve samples of fine Spanish merino wool, of superior quality and growth.

208. James Torrence, Utica, N. Y., U. S.

WOOLS.
Report. — Twelve samples of merino, Leicester, and half-blood wools, of excellent quality

and considerable merit.

222

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GROUP IX.

139

209. George W. Bond, Boston, Mass., U. S.

WOOL, MOHAIR, AND ALPACA.

Report. — ^A very large and complete selection of wool, mohair, and alpaca, consisting of
oDe hundred and ninety specimens, all of distinct qualities and varieties, collected from
ererj wool-growing country in the world, and adapted for the manufacture of all fabrics of
which wool is a component part. The exhibit is admirably arranged for scientific investi-
gation.

210. W. W. Jamison, Cadiz, Ohio, U. S.

MERINO WOOL.

Report, — ^Eleven samples of merino wool, of good quality and fibre, well adapted for
combing.

211. Thomas P. Gumming, Stony Point, Victoria, Australia.

MERINO WOOL.

Report. — Sample of very superior combing greasy merino wool, of excellent quality and
growth.

212. J. Brock, Campania, Tasmania.

MERINO WOOL.

Report, — Fleece of pure merino wool, of very superior quality and growth.

213. Greenwood ft Batley, Leeds, England.

WARP-TYING MACHINE.

Report, — A warp-tying machine of very ingenious construction.

214. George W. Keach, Chiswick, Ross, Tasmania

WOOL.

Report. — A fleece of four years* old ram, and one of five years* ol<? ewe woo! of gi* ^
quality and adapted for combing.

215. David Taylor, St. Johnstone's, Tasmania.

MERINO WOOL.

Report, — ^Fleeces of pure merino wool in the grease; all of superior quality anH merit

216. Charles Headlam, Egleston, Tasmania.

MERINO WOOL.

Report, — Fleeces of pure merino wool of excellent quality, staple, and fibre.

217. Samuel Page, Belle Vue, New Town, Tasmania.

MERINO WOOL.

Report. — Fleeces of pure merino hot- water washed wool ; all of superior v^uaJ'cy and
excellent f^rowth.

223

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I40 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

218. Pacific Scouring Co., Hartford, Conn., U. S.

WOOL.

Report, — A fine specimen of beautifully cleansed wool, carefully assorted into different
qualities, ready for manufacturing purposes.

219. Marinska Model Farm, near Saratov, Russia.

WOOL,

Report, — An exhibit of excellent merino clothing wool, with samples illustrative of native
Russian merino fleeces.

220. Count Komarowsky, Government and District of Orel, Russia.

WOOL.

Report, — Six illustrative fleeces of wool of native Russian breeds and English races*

221. Theodore Fatx, Olviopol, Kherson, Russia.

WOOL.

Report, — Samples of electoral wool of great fineness and beauty.

222. V. Labenski, Government and District of Warsaw, Russia.

WOOL.

Report, — ^Two cases of very beautiful electoral wools, short and fine in staple, corre-
sponding to the fine Silesian and Hungarian wools.

223. Ganeshin Bros., Moscow, Russia.

WOOL.

Report, — Merino wool, washed, fine, and of good staple.

224. Simon Stishinsky, Golobovo, near Voronesh, Russia.

WOOL.

Report, — Merino wool of fine quality and good staple.

225. Nicholas Glinka, Ostrolenka, Lomsa, Russia.

WOOL.

Report, — ^Fonr fleeces of clothing wool from sheep of the electoral breed, of special
fineness.

226. Baklanof ft Sons, Moscow, Russia.

WOOL.

Report, — Six small bales of excellent washed merino wool.

227. Edward Falx-Fein, Kakhovka, Tauride, Russia.

WOOL,

Report. — Commended for seven fleeces of washed merino wool of fine quality and good
growth; and for one htmdred samples of clothing and combed merino wool of great
excellence.

224

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GROUP IX. 141

228. P. Mariolaki, Rostov on the Don, Russia.

WOOL.

Report. — Excellent Donskoi wool, marked for cleanness and length of staple.

229. A. Warshawski, St. Petersburg, Russia.

WOOL.
Report. — Samples of wool of Rambouillet and Negretti breeds, of good growth, quality,
and staple.

230. Karlovka Estate of the Grand Duchess Katherine Mikhailovna, Qovemment

of Poltava, Russia.

WOOL.

Report. — One hundred samples of wool from sheep of the Rambouillet and Negretti
breeds, principally adapted for combing purposes, and remarkable for length of staple.

231. Th. J. Martin, Verviers, Belgium.

WOOL CARD CLOTHING.

Report. — ^A good exhibition of wool card clothing.

232. Felix Delrez, Verviers, Belgium.

WOOL CARD CLOTHING.
Report, — An excellent exhibition of wool card clothing.

233. Heinr. Lewald, Breslau, Germany.

WOOL.

Report, — ^A good exhibit of woolen and vigogne fabrics, made for technical and medical
purposes.

234. Ambros. Marthaus, Oschatz, Germany.

FELTS.

Report. — Perfectly made felts used for saddle-cloths, shoes, and boots.

235. R. von Mens, Karlsdorf, Silesia, Germany.

SILESIAN WOOL.

Report. — Three very fine fleeces of Silesian wool, of excellent quality and fibre, and
adapted for the manufacture of the finest cloths produced.

236. Valckenberg & Schoen, Worms, Germany.

ARTIFICIAL WOOL.

Report. — A good assortment of extract, mungo, and shoddy wool.

237. Carlos J. Guerrero, Province of Buenos Ayres, Argentine Republic.

MICRLNO WOOL.

Report. — Fleeces of unwashed merino wool, of sui^erior quality and fibre, adapted to Ihr.
manufacture of cashmeres and merinos.

15 225

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142 liEFORTS ON AWARDS,

238. Na2ar & Brothers, Buenos Ajrres, Argentine Republic.

MERINO WOOL.

Report. — A large assortment of samples of merino wool, in great variety of staple and
of good quality.

239. Francisco Chas & Son, Province of Buenos Ayres, Argentine Republic.

WOOL.

Report. — One fleece of unwashed wool, weighing thirty-one pounds, of fair quality and
excellent growth.

240. Jorge Stegman, Province of Buenos Ajrres, Argentine Republic.

MERINO WOOL.

Report. — One fleece of healthy, full-grown merino wool, weighing twenty-one pounds,
of good staple and fibre, and adapted for combing purposes.

241. Wilfred Latham, Province of Buenos Ajrres, Argentine Republic.

MERINO WOOL.
Report. — Two fleeces of merino combing wool, of excellent quality and fibre; also
samples of fine merino wool.

242. Emilio Duportal, Province of Buenos Ajrres, Argentine Republic.

WOOL.
Report. — A very good exhibit of sheep-skin wool, very heavy, and of good quality, and
nine inch staple ; also four fleeces excellent combing wool, weighing about twenty-three
pounds each.

243. Samuel B. Hale, Province of Buenos Ayres, Argentine Republic.

MERINO WOOL.

Report. — Six fleeces of merino combing wool, of very superior quality, well bred, and
long staple, almost equal to Australian wool, and well adapted for the manufacture of
merinos and Italian cloths.

244. Count Alois Karolyi, Stampfen, Austria.

WOOL.

Report. — Several very beautiful fleeces of short wool, both washed and unwashed, of ex-
ceedingly fine quality and fibre, and adapted for the manufacture of superfine cloths.

245. Adolf Jacob, Reichenberg, Bohemia, Austria.

WOOLEN CLOTH.

Report. — A rich collection of military cloth, in good qualities and brilliant colors.

246. Count Emerich Hunjrady, Urm^ny, Hungary, Austria.

HUNGARIA.N WOOL.

Report. — Fleeces of washed and unwashed Hungarian wool, of excellent quality and
fibre, and adapted to the manufacture of fine cloths.

226

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GROUP IX. 143

247. Joint Stock Company of the Voslau Worsted Yam Manufactory. Vbslau,

Austria.

WORSTED YARNS,

Report. — An excellent collection of worsted yarns, of various numbers and brilliant
colors.

248. John L. Bowes & Brother, Liverpool, England.

WOOLS, MOHAIRS, ALPACAS, NOILS, AND WASTE.

Report. — Commended for a very complete and well-arranged assortment of wool, mohair,
and alpaca, comprising about two hundred and eighty specimens, from all parts of the
world; also for wool waste, extract wool, silk noils, camels'-hair noils, alpaca and mohair
noils, mmigo, and wool-waste, adapted for manufacturing purposes.

249. Qunerius Pettersen, Christiania, Norway.

FLANNELS AND WOOLEN DRESS GOODS.

Report, — Well-made dress goods and flannels, for general consumption.

250. Frederick Shaw, Redbanks, Swansea, Tasmania .

LEICESTER WOOL.

Report. — One fleece of Leicester wool, of excellent quality and growth.

251. Wm. H. Gibson, Fairfield, Snake Banks, Tasmania.

MERINO WOOL.

Report. — For fleeces of pure merino raw wool, of superior quality and staple.

252. John Taylor, Milford, Campbell Town, Tasmania.

MERINO WOOL.

Report. — Washed and skirted yearling merino ewe wool, of first-rate quality, adapted for
the manufactiure of the finest goods.

253. W. Gibson & Son, Scone, Perth, Tasmania.

MERINO^ WOOL.
Report. — Fleeces of pure merino ram, ewe, and hogget wool, all of excellent quality and
of the highest merit.

254. George Wilson, Oatlands, Tasmania.

MERINO WOOL,

Report, — Several fleeces of fine merino wool, of excellent quality, well bred, and of
good staple, weighing about eleven and a half pounds each.

255. James Gibson, Belle Vue, Cleveland, Tasmania.

MERINO WOOL.

Report. — Fleeces of pure merino, ram, ewe, and lambs' wool, all of excellent quality
and growth.

227

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144 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

256. W. H. D. Archer, Brickendon, Longford, Tasmania.

woou

Report. — Samples of pure merino and lambs* wool, all of excellent quality and growth.

257. George Taylor, Milford, Campbell Town, Tasmania.

MERINO WOOL.

Report. — Several very superb fleeces from stud merino ram, valuable for length of fibre
and adaptation for the manufacture of the best merinos and cashmeres.

258. William Kemp, Adelaide, South Australia, Australia.

WOOL.
Report, — Twelve sheep-skins of excellent growth and quality; very good of their kind.

259. Fenwick & Scott, Queensland, Australia.

WOOL.

Report. — A large collection of samples of Australian wool, most of which are of high
merit, great length of staple, and superior quality.

260. Q. H. Davenport, Headington Hill, Queensland, Australia.

WOOL.
Report. — A most choice exhibit of merino combing wool of the finest quality, long staple,
and excellent in every respect ; especially remarkable for its length and richness of fibre.

261. Hajrward, Armstrong, & Co., Adelaide, South Australia, Australia.

WOOL.
Report. — A very good selection of merino, ewe, wether, hogget, and lambs* wool, all of
superior quality and merit.

262. John Howard Angus, Adelaide; South Australia, Australia.

WOOL.

Report. — Commended for scoured merino laml«* wool, of fine quality and in good con-
dition ; also for two cases of show wool of choice quality, and for dressed skins of pure
Lincoln ram, clean and of good staple.

263. Shanahan & Jennings, Westbrook Station, Queensland, Australia.

WOOL.

Report. — A very excellent exhibit of Australian merino wool, choice in every respect.

264. Allan McFarlane, Adelaide, South Australia, Australia.
wooi«
Report. — Merino ewe wool, of good fibre, staple, and quality.

265. Price & Browne, Adelaide, South Australia, Australia.
wooi«
Report. — Merino, ewe, wether, hogget, and lambs' wool, of fine quality, good fibre, and
healthy growth.

228

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GROUP IX, 145

266. L. E. Lester, Rosenthal, Queensland, Australia.

MERINO WOOL.

Report. — Australian merino wool, of superior quality and in fine condition.

267. John Murray, Adelaide, South Australia, Australia.

MERINO WOOL.

Report, — A choice selection of combing merino rams' wool, of long staple and excellent
quality, some fleeces weighing fifteen pounds.

268. Joseph Keynes, Keyneton, South Australia, Australia.

MERINO WOOL.

Report, — ^Four fleeces of combing merino wool, of healthy growth, good staple, and
superior quality.

269. C. B. Fisher, Headington Hill, Queensland, Australia.

MERINO WOOL.
Report. — ^Well-bred merino wool, of exceedingly fine quality, good staple and growth.

270. John Wilson, Lismore, Victoria, Australia.

WOOL.

Report, — ^Three fleeces of greasy merino lambs', ewcb', and wethers' wool, of good
quality and growth, adapted both for combing and clothing purposes.

271. W. & N. G. Elder, Elder, Rookwood, Victoria, Australia.

WOOL.

Report, — ^An excellen texhibitof merino lambs', ewes', and wether wool, of very superior
quality and growth.

272. R. Goldsbrough & Co., Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

WOOL.

Report, — A very considerable variety of greasy and washed merino wool, most of which
is of very superior quality and growth, and adapted for both clothing and combing pur-
poses.

273. George Arnold & Co., Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

WOOL.
Report, — Five cases of wool, containing thirty fleeces of washed and greasy merino ;
also, Lincoln, Leicester, and cross-bred. The merinos are excellent in every respect, and
the Leicester crosses are of considerable merit.

274. Timms Brothers, Mount Hesse, Victoria, Australia.

WOOL.

Report, — Samples of ewe and wether merinos, hot- water washed, of very superior quality

and fibre.

229

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146 I^EPOJ^TS ON AWARDS.

275. Hastings Cunningham & Co., Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

WOOL.
Report. — A most complete assortment of fine washed combing merino wool; also greasy
rams* wool, and cross-bred and Lincoln ewe fleeces. The merino wool is excellent in
every respect, and reflects great credit on the growers.

276. Alexander Armstrong, Warramtine, Victoria, Australia.

WOOL.
Report. — A very creditable exhibit of washed and greasy merino wool, of excellent
quality and growth.

277. Wm. Bliss & Son, Chipping Norton, Oxfordshire, England.

WOOLENS.

Report. — Commended for a very handsome assortment of Himalayan shawls, novel in
pattern and combination; also, for tweeds, Cotswold suitings, serges for military wear,
Cambridge rugs. Angora beavers and horse clothing ; all of excellent manufacture and
adapted for general use.

278. Howgate, Day, & Nolt, Huddersfield, England.

WOOLENS.

Report, — A very complete assortment of reversible coatings, Victoria naps, Irish frieze,
and presidents cloth ; all of excellent manufacture, at low prices.

279. Nussey & Leachman, Leeds, England.

CLOTH MACHINE.

Report. — A powerful hot-pressing machine for cloth, having an effective and automatic
action.

280. B. C. Parr, Queensland, Australia.

AUSTRALIAN WOOL.

Report, — Australian wool, of superior quality and in good condition, high class wool in
every respect.

2S1. George Clark, East Talgai, Queensland, Australia.

MERINO WOOL.

Report. — Australian merino wool, of very superior quality and fibre, and of high merit.

2S2. Gore & Co., Yandilla, Queensland, Australia.

MERINO WOOL.

Report. — A very good exhibit of merino wool, of fine quality, good staple, and healthy
growth.

283. Simpson & Co., Bon Acora, Queensland, Australia.

WOOL.

Report. — Combing merino wool, of very superior quality, staple, and growth.

230

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GROUP IX, 147

284. F. R. White, Blandford, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.
Report. — Commended for combing merino wool, of superior growth and quality ; also
for several fleeces of Saxon merino wool, of excellent growth and staple.

285. J. B. Bettington, Merrieva, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.
Report. — Commended for two cases of Saxon merino combing wool, of fine quality,
good staple and growth ; also for greasy wool, of very superior quality and merit.

286. G. H. Cox, Mudgee, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.

Report. — An extensive and excellent exhibit of Saxon merino combing wool, beautifully
washed, of the finest quality, and very high merit.

287. Henty & Balfour, Albury, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.

Report. — Two cases of combing merino wool, of very superior quality and growth, and
excellent in every respect.

288. E. K. Cox, Mudgee, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.

Report. — Several fleeces of Saxon merino combing wool, well washed, of excellent
quality, fibre, and staple, and of very high merit.

289. £. & A. Tindal, Barrajan, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.

Report. — Commended for fine washed combing Saxon merino wool, of very superior
quality and fibre, and of high merit ; also for greasy combing wool of superior quality.

290. W. S. Peter, Canterbury, New Zealand.

WOOL.
Report, — Merino fleece wool, of very choice quality, good fibre, and staple.

291. Samuel Bealey, Canterbury, New Zealand.

WOOL.

Report. — Several fleeces cross-merino ewe wool, by Romney Marsh or Kent ram, of very
choice quality and good weight.

292. John Hall, Canterbury, New Zealand.

WOOL.

Report, — Merino fleece wool, of very superior quality and growth.

293. Geo. A. Anstey, Nelson, New Zealand.

WOOL.

Report, — Several fleeces of merino ram and ewe wool, of choice quality and excellent
growth.

231

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148 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

294. J. Cathcart Wason, Canterbury, New Zealand.

WOOL.

Report. — Commended for several fleeces of merino wether wool, and for Lincoln fleeces,
of good staple and quality.

295. A. Braithwaite, Wellington, New Zealand.

WOOL.

Report, — Romney Maish and merino fleece wool, of good quality and growth.

296. A. H. Rickman, Canterbury, New Zealand.

WOOL.

Report, — Romney Marsh ewe wool, very silky, and of healthy growth.

297. Charles Clark, Queensland, Australia.

ANGORA WOOL.

Report, — Fleece of pure Angora wool, of excellent quality, good staple, and rich lustre.

298. Willibald Schram, Vienna, Austria.

JACQUARD MACHINES.

Report, — ^Jacquard machines, excellent in workmanship.

299. G. L. Lethbridge, Singleton, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.

Report. — Cases of Saxon merino greasy combing wool, of good fibre and quality.

300. A. N. Gilbert, Warwillah, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.

Report. — Saxon merino combing wool, of fine quality, good staple, and healthy growth.

301. £. & A. Bowman, Rotherwood, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.
Report. — Commended for greasy merino clothing wool, of superior quality and adapted
for fine cloths ; also for several cases of Saxon merino combing wool, of good quality and
fibre.

302. T. Brown & Co., Tuppal, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.
Report. — Cases of excellent combing merino wool, of first-rate quality, and, if free from
burrs, would be most choice wool. ,

303. Hon. James Maclanachan, Ballochmyle, Tasmania.

WOOL.

Report. — Fleeces of pure merino rams* wool, in the grease, of excellent gix>wth and
quality, weighing from ten to eleven pounds each.

232

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CROUP IX, 149

304. Thomas Russell, Barunah Plains, Victoria, Australia.

WOOL.
Report, — Hot-water washed wool, of excellent quality and high merit.

305. W. S. Shailand, Woodbridge, New Norfolk, Tasmania.

WOOL.

Report, — ^Fleeces of pure merino wool, of good quality, fibre, and staple.

306. John Ralston, Logan, Evandale, Tasmania.

WOOL.

Report, — Several fleeces of pure merino wool, of good quality and growth ; also Leicester
fleeces of very good length, staple, and quality, highly creditable to the grower.

307. Victorian Woolen Cloth Co., Victoria, Australia.

WOOLENS.

Report, — Shawls, tweeds, and broadcloths, made of pure wool, and of honest and sub-
stantial manufacture ; very creditable for a new country.

308. Thos. Parramore, Beaufort, Ross, Tasmania.

MERINO WOOL.

Report, — Several fleeces of wool from pure merino ram and ewes, of very superior
quality and staple.

309. John McVean, Wooloomoonoo, New South Wales, Australia.

MERINO WOOL.

Report, — Combing merino wool, of fine fibre and staple and very superior quality.

310. Geo. Synnot & Co., Geelong, Victoria, Australia.

LINCOLN WOOL.

Report, — Samples of well-grown Lincoln wool, of good staple and rich fibre.

311. Andrew Loder, CoUey Creek, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.

Report, — Commended for an excellent exhibit of fine merino clothing wool, of superb
quality, and adapted for the manufacture of the 1)est superfine cloths ; abo for combing
merino wool, of very choice quality, staple, and fibre.

312. A. H. Lowe, Dynevor, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.

Report, — Angora goats' wool of fine growth and high lustre, adapted for the manufacture
of mohair fabrics ; capable of further improvement.

313. John Allen, Burrangong, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.

Report, — One case of Saxon merino combing wool, of very fine quxditv and good staple ;
also well bred.

233

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1 50 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

314. Wm. Lang, Wargam, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.

Report — Excellent samples of greasy wether and hogget wool, of very superior quality
and staple.

315. F. & A. Cox, Mudgee, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.
Report, — A very superior exhibit of fine Saxon merino combing wool, excellent in
quality and fibre.

316. D. H. Campbell, Cunningham Plains, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.
Report. — Commended for one case of Rambouillet combing wool, of superior quality,
healthy growth, and good staple; also for clothing wool adapted for fine cloths.

317. W. A. Brodribb, Moolbong, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.

Report. — Fine combing merino wool, of good staple and quality, and adapted for the
manufacture of cassimeres.

318. L. Learmonth, Groongal, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.

Report. — Cases of fine combing merino wool, of excellent quality, fibre, and growth;
a most choice selection.

319. E. B. Hulme, Burrowa, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.
Report. — Saxon merino combing wool in the grease, of good fibre, quality, and growth ;
also very heavy fleeces.

320. P. G. King, Goonoo Goonoo, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.

Report. — Several fleeces of superior combing merino wool, excellent in quality and
staple.

321. Clive & Hamilton, CoUaroy, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.

Report. — A very superior exhibit of beautifully washed merino combing wool, of the
highest quality, and excellent in every respect; also combing wool of choice quality.

322. Alexander Wilson, Coree, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.

Report. — Fleeces of merino combing wool, of excellent growth and quality, and adapted
for combing purposes; very choice in every respect.

323. W. Crozier, Adelaide, South Australia, Australia.

WOOL.
Report. — Merino ewe wool of good staple, quality, and growth.

234

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GROUP IX, 151

324. Wolfendcn, Shore, & Co., Cardington, Pa., U. S.

CLOTH LOOM.
Report. — A general purpose cloth loom, of simplicity of motions and reasonable price.

325. Samuel McCaughey, Coonong, New South Wales, Australia.

WOOL.

Report. — One case of combing merino wool, of very superior quality and good staple ;
also beautifully washed.

326. Sir Samuel Wilson, Oakleigh Hall, Victoria, Australia.

MERINO WOOL.
Report. — Five bales of very fine merino wool, both ewes* and hoggets*, remarkable for
fineness of fibre and length of staple; admirably adapted for the manufacture of the finest
cloths and cassimeres.

327. Marshall & Slade, Glengallan, Queensland, Australia.

MERINO WOOL.

Report. — A very creditable exhibit of merino wool, one fleece of which is from Cham-
Itton ram. The wool is choice in every respect.

328. C. H. Green, Goomburra, Queensland, Australia.

MERINO WOOL.

Report. — Australian merino wool, of first-rate quality, and in excellent condition.

329. James Kirkman, Chester, Pa., U. S.

COTTON AND WOOL DOESKINS.
Report. — An exhibit of union doeskins (or Kentucky jeans), in a variety of mixtures, at
low prices, and adapted to common use.

330. Knox Woolen Company, Camden, Me., U. S.

PAPER-MAKERS* FELTS.

Report. — An exhibit of paper-makers* felts, unsurpassed in excellence.

331. Provincial Commission, Province of Buenos Ayres, Argentine Republic.

WOOL.

Report. — Samples of merino and other wools, in different classes and great varieties; the
staple in some instances being eight inches long; also sheep-skin, Cordova, and goats* wool;
all of excellent growth and great weight.

332. Portalegre Woolen Manufacturing Co., Portalegre, Portugal.

FANCY CASSIMERES.

Report. — A collection of fancy cassimeres, in creditable qualities and good designs.

333. Joint Exhibition of Elberfeld Manufacturers of Zanella and Coatings,
Elberfeld, Germany.

ITALIAN CLOTHS.

Report. — ^A splendid exhibition of Italian cloths and coatings, plain and figured, of ex-
cellent qualities, fine color, and perfect finish.

23s

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152 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

334. Association of Cloth Makers of Reichenberg, Bohemia, Austria.

CLOTHS, DOESKINS, AND TRICOTS.
Report. — A creditable assortment of broadclotlis, doeskins, and tricots, of good quality
at cheap prices.

335. Orange Free Stotc, Africa.

WOOL.

Report, — One bale of mohair and two bales of merino clothing wool ; all of excellent
quality.

336. Prycc Jones, Newtown, North Wales, Great Britain.

FLANNELS.

Report. — A creditable exhibit of white Welsh, colored, striped, and robe flannels,
together with mixed shawls of substantial make.

337. Carlo Ditta Morandi, Milan, Italy.

SILK TASSELS AND FURNITURE GALLOONS.

Report, — ^Very well made silk tassels and furniture galloons.

338. Enrico Beati, Milan, Italy.

SILK .STOCKINGS.

Report. — A good variety of plain and fancy silk stockings.

339. The Nishijin Weavers, Kiyoto, Japan.

BROCADED SILKS.

Report. — An excellent show of rich brocade silks, of good designs and combinations of
colors.

340. A. L. Trapadoux, Brothers, & Co., Lyons, France.

PRINTED FOULARDS.

Report. — A handsome collection of foulards.

341. A. L. Woodworth, St. John, New Brunswick.

WOOLEN YARNS.

Report. — A considerable variety of woolen yams, in good colors, and well adapted for
the purpose intended.

342. Titus Calverley & Sons, Huddersfield, England.

DOESKINS AND CASSIMERES.
Report. — Commended for economy and cost in the manufacture of black doeskins and
union cassimeres, which are really creditable articles at the price.

343. Geo. H. Gilbert Manufacturing Co., Ware, Mass., U. S

FLANNELS AND BLANKETS.
Report. — An imposing display of flannels and blankets, the former consisting of all wool
white silk warp, gauze, moleskin, Shaker, domett, and opera flannels ; the scarlet and blues
of the latter especially striking; the blankets made of Ohio and West Virginia wool are
noticeable for their softness of material and excellence of manufacture.

236

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CROUP IX,

153

344 Manchester Mills, Manchester, N. H., U. S.

STUFF DRESS GOODS.

Report. — A very complete assortment of three-quarters figured dress goods — mixtures,
lustres, cashmeres, twills, and six-quarters cashmeres; all of excellent manufacture, color,
and finish, at reasonable prices, and adapted for general consumption.

345. Edward Webb & Sons, Worcester, England.

HAIR CLOTH.

Report, — Hair cloth, adapted to upholstery and tailors* padding; the former specially
notable for beauty and novelty of effects in pure white grounds, with rich dark-colored
stripes in various shades; the fabric adapted to warm climates.

346. Robert S. Davies & Sons, Stonehouse Mills, Gloucestershire, England..

CLOTHS, BEAVERS, MELTONS, AND DOESKINS.

Report, — A very creditable exhibit of superfine cloths, beavers, meltons, and doeskins,
of excellent manufacture, color, and finish.

347. H. Winger, Elmira, Ontario, Canada.

FLANNELS.

Report, — Serge flannel cotton wool blankets ; excellent for the price.

348. Kell & Co., Bradford, England

LASTINGS.

Report, — Lastings marked for their lustre and good texture.

349. Smith & Wilby, Toronto, Ontario, Canada.

FLANNELS.

Report, — Three-quarters domestic flannels, at low cost, for general use.

350. Oxford Woolen Mills, Oxford, Nova Scotia.

WOOLENS.

Report, — ^Wool flannels, Halifax tweeds, and home-spun stufl"; all excellent goods for
general use.

351. John Wardlaw, Gait, Onurio, Canada.

WOOLEN YARNS.

Report, — ^White, colored, and gray knitting yarns, in considerable variety of shades,
cheap, aseful, and well adapted for general use.

352. Rosamond Woolen Co., Almonte, Ontario, Canada.

WOOLENS.

Report. — Fancy cassimeres and tweeds, of excellent manufacture and low cost.

353. Mills & Hutchison, Montreal, Quebec, Canada.

WO(JLENS.

Report. — Three-quarters cassimeres and Canadian tweeds, of excellent manufacture and
good value.

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154 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

354. Adam Lomas & Son, Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada.

FLANNELS.

Report, — Very cheap flannels, dotlis, and tweeds, well adapted for general consumption.

355. Samuel T. Willett, Chambly, Quebec, Canada.

FLANNEl^.

Report, — Blue, scarlet, and mixed flannels, of rich color and soft texture, all excellent
for the price.

356. John Harvie & Co., Hamilton, Ontario, Canada.

WOOL.
Report. — A very complete and creditable exhibit of Leicester, Cotswold, and Southdown
wool ; also the following crosses : Leicester and merino, Leicester and Southdown, Cots-
wold and Leicester, Lincoln and Cotswold, Leicester and Cotswold. The Southdown and
Leicester merino are excellent both in staple and fibre, also the Leicester and Southdown
cross good ; the others fair.

357. Toronto Tweed Co., Toronto, Ontario, Canada.

WOOLENS.

Report, — Fancy Scotch tweeds, plaids, and cheviots, in novel patterns, and at reasonable
prices.

358. T. S. Fisher, Toronto, Ontario, Canada.

WOOLENS.

Report, — Cheviot coatings, meltons, tweeds, and Blair Athols, all of useful manufacture
and at low prices.

359. Robt. Brearley & Son, Great Britain.

PILOTS, BEAVERS, AND OVERCOATINGS.

Report. — A very creditable exhibit of pilots, beavers, and overcoatings, at moderate cost,
and adapted for general consumption.

360. Jesse Eddy's Sons, Fall River, Mass., U. S.

FANCY CASSIMERES.

Report, — Well-made fancy cassimeres of novel English effects, in great variety and at
moderate prices.

361. Peckham Manufacturing Co., Providence, R. L, U. S.

KENTUCKY JEANS, DOESKINS, AND WOOLEN YARNS.
Report, — Kentucky jeans and doeskins, smooth in finish and uniform in shade; also an
excellent exhibit of woolen yams in great variety of shades.

362. Groveland Mills, South Groveland, Mass., U. S.

FLANNELS.

Report, — An assorted exhibit of red Shaker, Martha Washington, white, light red, and
blue flannels, both in twenty-seven and thirty-six inch widths ; all of good fabrication, at
moderate cost.

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GROUP IX, 155

363. Oregon City Woolen Mills, Oregon, U. S.

FANCY CASSIMERES AND BLANKETS.

Report, — Fancy cassimeres, substantial in fabric, of excellent Bnisb, and good designs ;
also blankets of good quality; all marked for their cheapness, resulting from the availability
of Oregon wools at low cost.

364. Charles N. Bacon, Winchester, Mass., U. S.

FELTS.

Report. — An excellent exhibit of felt goods, in great variety and of good fabrication,
comprising many novel and ingenious applications.

365. William Walshaw, Saxonville Mills, Mass., U. S.

DYEING.

Report, — ^A considerable exhibit of colors, in great variety, in woolen and worsted yams.

366. Meriden Woolen Co., West Meriden, Conn., U. S.

FANCY UNION CASSIMERES.

Report, — Fancy union cassimeres of good manufacture, at cheap prices.

367. Union Manufacturing Co., Wolcottville, Conn., U. S.

THREE-QUARTERS BLACK DOESKINS.
Report, — Three-quarters black doeskins ; excellent in fabric, color, and finish.

368. Henry Fox & Co., Urbana, Ohio, U. S.

STOCKING YARNS AND TWEEDS.

Report, — Excellent indigo-dyed stocking yams ; also tweeds, honest and substantial in
material and make.

369. Niantic Woolen Mills, East Lyme, Conn., U. S.

COTTON WARP TWEEDS.

Report, — Commended for a three-quarters cotton warp tweed, tastefully mixed with
silk noils for " Knickerbocker** effects, at cheap prices.

370. Arlington Mills, Lawrence, Mass., U. S.

ALPACAS AND BRILLIANTINES,

Report, — A very superior collection of black alpacas, brilliantines, figured mohairs, and
Roubaix poplins ; all first-class goods of their kind, very uniform in width, color, and finish,
and, being of recent introduction, reflect great credit on the manufacturers.

371. Beckman & Co., Cleveland, Ohio, U. S.

WOOL SHODDIES.

Report, — A full assortment of all wool shoddies, comprising about seventy-eight varieties
of colors and mixtures, beautifully arranged, and of considerable merit

239

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156 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

372. Globe Woolen Co., Utica, N. Y., U. S.

FANCY CASSIMERES.

Report, — ^An admirable exiiibit of fancy cassimcrcs, in great variety of design, superior
in texture and finish; the silk-mixed, hair-lines, and velvet effects are specially note-
worthy.

373. Weybosset Mills, Providence, R. I., U. S.

FANCY CASSIMERES.

Report. — Three-quarters fancy cassimeres, of substantial make and tasteful designs, at
moderate cost, adapted for general use.

374. Lippitt Woolen Co., Woonsocket, R. I., U. S.

OVERCOATINGS AND FANCY CASSIMERES.

Report. — A good exhibit of all wool fancy elysians and fur beavers, of varied patterns
and colors, in low and medium grades.

375. L. Dryfoos & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

FELT SKIRTS.

Report. — Commended for a handsome exhibit of felt skirts, and for originality of desi^
in embroidery.

376. Economy Mills, Philadelphia, Pa., U. 8.

COTTON WARP AND WOOL FUR BEAVERS.

Report, — Various grades of cotton warp and all wool fur beavers and chinchillas, of
excellent designs, at cheap prices, together with cotton warj) bed and horse blankets for
general consimiptlon, at very low cost.

377. Tillotson & Collins, Pittsfield, Mass., U. S.

CASSIMERES.

Report. — ^Three-quarters cotton waq->, double and twist cassimeres of low grades, note-
worthy for evenness of weave and clearness of mixture, with low prices.

378. James Phillips, Jr., Fitchburg, Mass., U. S.

WORSTED SUITINGS.

Report. — ^Worsted suitings made from Ohio wool, unsurpassed for excellence of manu-
facture, superiority of quality, and beauty of styles.

379. Camden Woolen Mills, Camden, N. J., U. S.

COTTON WARP REFELLANTS AND FLANNELS.

Report. — Cotton warp rcpellants, flannels, cloakings, and knickerbocker goods at low
prices.

3S0. Hinsdale Bros., Hinsdale, Mass., U. S.

KERSEYS AND COATINGS.

Report. — Commend e<l for light colored kerseys of good finish and beautiful and even
shades, and for excellent coalings.

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GROUP IX. 157

381. Martin Landenberger's Sons, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

DRESS GOODS AND SHAWLS.

Report. — A brilliant exhibit of fancy worsted dress goods and shawls, both knit and
woven, the latter original in design and process of manufacture.

The India styles are especially creditable for novelty and tastefulness of design and
moderate prices.

3S2. Washington Mills, E. R. Mudge, Sawyer, & Co., Lawrence, Mass., U. S.

WORSTED AND STUFF GOODS.

Report. — A very creditable exhibit of three-quarters worsted stuff goods, consisting of
plain and twilled mixtures, checks, stripes, cretonnes, and all wool delaines ; all very useful
goods, and adapted for general consumption.

383. Robert Rodman, Lafayette, R. I., U. S.

DOESKIN JEANS.

Report, — Humboldt jeans of cotton warp and all wool filling, of substantial make and
intrinsic worth, for common wear.

384. Wonimbo Manufacturing Co., Lisbon Falls, Me., U. S.

OVERCOATINGS.

Report. — Black and colored Moscow beavers, of excellent fabric, color, ajid finish.

385. Mississippi Mills, Wesson, Miss., U. S.

WOOL FILLING JEANS.
Report. — ^An exhibit of doeskin jeans, of substantial manufacture, adapted to the wants
of the laboring classes.

386. Bates Manufacturing Co., Lewiston, Me., U. S.

BEAVERS AND REPELLANTS.

Report, — ^Well-made beavers and repellants.

387. Middlesex Co., Lowell, Mass., U. S.

WOOLEN GOODS.
Report. — Commended for indigo-blue police flannels, cadet uniform and yacht cloths,
with police beavers; all of substantial fabrication, and adapted for uniformed schools, city
police, and for general consumption ; also for large shawls, in excellent colors, at moderate
prices.

388. Midnight Yam Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

GERMANTOWN WOOL AND WOOLEN KNITTING YARNS.

Repoi-t. — An exhibit of woolen Germantown and knitting yams, adapted for crochet antl
hand-knitting, embroidery, and hosiery, of brilliant colors and great variety of shades.

389. Germania Mills, Holyoke, Mass., U. S.

BEAVERS, ESKIMOS, AND DOESKINS.
Report. — ^Three exhibits of fur beavers, elysians, and eskimos; the Germania beavers, in
blacks and colors, are especially commended for excellence of texture and finish.
16 241

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158 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

390. Hockanum Co., Rockville, Conn., U. S.

FANCY CASSIMERES AND WORSTEDS.
Report. — A superb display of fancy cassimeres and worsted suitings, excellent in all
respects.

/ 391. Bel Air Manufacturing Co., Piusfield, Mass., U. S.

FANCY CASSIMERES.

Report. — An admirable exhibit of fancy cassimeres, of bold and novel designs, in great
variety and of excellent manufacture.

392. Woodvale Woolen Mills, Johnstown, Pa., U. S.

FANCY CASSIMERES.

Report. — Fancy cassimeres of medium grades, substantially made, of 'neat design, and at
moderate prices.

393. Burlington Woolen Co., Winooski Falls, Vt., U. S.

CASSIMERES AND OVERCOATINGS.

Report. — A good exhibit of elysians, black and colored Moscows, kerseys, and castors ;
also three-quarters black doeskins of superior finish and color.

394. New England Manufacturing Co., Rockville, Conn., U. S.

WOOLEN CASSIMERES.
Report. — Fancy cassimeres of unsurpassed excellence in material, fabric, and finish ; the
designs tasteful, novel, and varied.

395. The Broad Brook Co., Broad Brook, Conn., U. S

FANCY CASSIMERES.

Report. — An excellent exhibit of fancy cassimeres, in great variety, substantial, well
made, and of good designs ; also meritorious indigo-blue coatings.

396. C. H. & F. H. Stott, StottsviUe, N. Y., U. S.

FLANNELS.

Report, — Cotton and wool-mixed twilled flannels, for bathing-robes and other purposes ;
also plaid flannels of a better grade, all noticeable for cheap prices.

397. Steam Woolen Co., Catskill, N. Y., U. S.

CHEVIOT SUITINGS AND SHAWLS.

Report. — A low grade of cheviot suitings and cotton and wool shawls, both specially
noteworthy for cheap prices and adaptation to general consumption.

398. Pawtucket Hair Cloth Co., Pawtucket, R. I., U. S.

HAIR CLOTH.

Report, — Commended for a handsome exhibit of upholstery hair cloth, varied in coI.t
and width, and noticeable for the evenness and smoothness of fabrication, especially credii
able as a new industry in this country; also for originality in the application of auiouiaiic
machinery to this fabrication.

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GROUP IX.
399. Sawyer Woolen Mills, Dover, N. H., U. S.

FANCY CASSIMERES AND SUITINGS.

159

Report. — Fancy cassimeres and kerseys in blacks and colors, of high intrinsic merit, free
from cotton, shoddy, or flocks; the styles neat, and the prices for the quality low ; the silk
mixed and the double and twist specially commended.

400. United States Bunting Co., Lowell, Mass., U. S.

WOOLEN BUNTING, MOREENS, AND DAMASKS.

Report. — Commended for an excellent show of bunting made of English and Canadian
wool, and for originality of process of striping and forming design and pattern; also fur
moreens and damasks of creditable manufacture and of considerable merit.

401. Fan Alpaca Co., Holyoke, Mass., U. S.

ALPACAS AND SERGKS.

Report. — An excellent exhibit of black alpacas, mohairs, cashmeres, and serges; all of
superior manufacture, very regular in quality, evenly spun and woven, and of permanent
color and Bnish.

402. Philadelphia Worsted Spinners' Association, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

WORSTED YARNS.
Report. — A most complete and admirable collection of extra fine yarns, from numbers
fifty to two hundred ; also, colored and mixed yams in beautiful colors and great variety,
and zephyr, braid, cassimere, genappe, shawl, knitting, floss, and upholstery yarn : al' very
evenly spun, well adapted for thfe purposes intended, and excellent in every respect.
Mostly spun from American wool.

403. Hamilton Woolen Mills, Southbridge, Mass., U. S.

REPS AND DELAINES.

Report. — A very handsome and complete assortment of three-quarters printed reps and
delaines, in strong patterns and designs, adapted for general consumption, and at lowprice<;.

404. Peacedale Manufacturing Company, Peacedale, R. I., U. S.

LASTINGS, SHAWLS, AND WORSTED SUITINGS.

Report. — An exhibit of eleven thread and other numbers of lastings, of very creditable
manufacture, and well adapted for shoe purposes; also worsted suitings of excellent manu-
facture, and shawls in great variety. The all wool cheap shawls are especially creditable.

405. R. Howard & Sons, Apponaug, R. I., U. S.

WOOLEN YARNS.

Report. — Woolen yams, well spun, and of good colors.

406. Montessuy & A. Chomer, Lyons, France.

CRAPES.

Report. — Goods perfect in manufacture, color, and finish, showing particularly greal
improvements in English crapes.

243

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sat*, if^-^nv^'?^ -^^ -

160 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

407. L. Drogue & A. Monnard, Lsrons, Prance.

POPLINS.

Report. — A fine assortment of plain, striped, and figured poplins, of brilliant shades and
good workmanship.

408. Ph. Dufourmantel & Co., Corbie, Somme, Prance.

WOOLEN YARNS AND YARNS OF WOOL AND SILK.

Report. — Woolen and silk and woolen yams of great perfection and wonderful fineness.

409. Poirrier, Mortier, & Muller, Paris, Prance.

DYED GOODS.

Report. — Commended for great variety and beauty of colors in dyed cashmeres and

410. P. Piquee & Bros., Paris, Prance.

UPHOLSTERY.

Report. — Figured and plain Utrecht velvets of excellent finish and colors.

411. Pinon & Guerin, Reims and Paris, Prance.

WOOLEN DRESS GOODS.

Report, — Knickerbocker woolen dress goods, in great variety and of excellent designs.

412. G. Maes, Clichy-la-Garenne, Prance.

DYED GOODS.

Report. — Commended for the vividness of color and variety of tints in dyed cashmeres
and upholstery goods.

413. Dumortier & Guigniet, Roubaix, Prance.

WORSTED SUITINGS.

Report. — Commended for variety of designs and excellence of manufacture in worsted
suitings.

414. P. Talamon Son & Co., Paris and Elbeuf, Prance.

CLOTHS.

Report. — An admirable display of fancy cassimeres and worsted suitings, excellent in
design and fabrication.

415. Decaux Son, Elbeuf, Prance.

MILITARY CLOTHS.

Report. — Well-made and serviceable military cloths of good colors.

416. P. Vanoutr3rve & Co., Roubaix, Prance.

UPHOLSTERY GOODS.

• Report. — upholstery goods, reps, tapestries, and damasks, distinguished for beauty, excel-
lence of fabrication, and variety of product.

244

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GROUP IX. i6r

417. Dabert & Co., St. Denis, France.

YARNS.

Report, — A large assortment of melanges, in great variety of hues and shades, very evenly
mixed.

418. Braquenie Brothers, Aubusson, France.

TAPESTRIES.

Report, — A rich collection of Gobelin tapestries, of excellent workmanship and design
and of a very high artistic merit.

419. Pin & Cleugnet, Lyons, France.

SHAWLS.
Report, — Shawls in India style, distinguished for beauty of design, harmony of color,
and excellence of manufacture, and especially for the clearness of the whites.

420. Seydoux, Sieber, and Co., Paris, France.

MERINO, CASHMERES, ROVINGS, AND YARNS.

Report, — Commended for a magnificent exhibit of French merinos, all wool and silk
warp cashmeres, gauzes, and deb^ges; all of the highest order of merit in material, texture,
beauty, and variety of hue and shade; also for a complete collection of wool rovings aiul
yarns, illustrative of the material of which the goods are composed.

421. E. Bellest & Co., Elbeuf, France.

BLACK AND COLORED CLOTHS.

Report, — A creditable exhibit of black and colored cloths of medium grades.

422. Chalamel & Co., Paris, France.

DYED GOODS.

Report, — Commended for brilliant and varied tints in cashmeres and upholstery goods.

423. A. Quillaumet's Sons, Suresnes, France.

DYED GOODS.

Report, — Commended for beauty, variety, and vividness of tints in merinos, poplins, and
reps.

424. E. de Montagnon & Son, Sedan, France.

CLOTHS.

Report, — Overcoatings and worsted suitings of novel and elegant designs and excellent
quality.

425. Bertrand Boulla, Ntmes, France.

TAPESTRY.

Report, — Woven tapestiy in imitation of the style of the Middle Ages, of high merit and
at low prices.

426. Robert- Ouerin's Widovir & Son, Reims, France.

MERINOS, CASHMERES, AND REPS.

Report, — Merinos, cashmeres, and reps of excellent manufacture.

245

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1 62 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

427. Wanskuck Company, Providence, R. I., U. S.

OVERCOATINGS.

Report. — A beautiful exhibit of fancy elysians and fur beavers, excellent in design and
texture; their Devonshire kerseys in bla9k and colors especially commendable.

428. The Rock Manufacturing Company, Rockville, Conn., U. S.

FANCY CASSI MERES.

Report. — An unsurpassed exhibit of fancy cassimeres, in great variety of designs, without
blemish in texture and finish; the hair-lines and velvets especially commendable.

429. Conshohocken Woolen Mills, Conshohocken, Pa., U. S.

BEAVERS AND DOESKINS.

Report. — Moscow castor and doeskin beavers of medium grades, well made for the pur-
poses intended, and at moderate prices; the diagonal beavers especially commendable.

430. J. Ledward & Son, Chester, Pa., U. S.

COTTON AND WOOL DOESKINS.

Report. — Cotton and wool doeskins of good and substantial make and at low prices,
adapted for a large demand in agricultural districts.

431. James Roy & Co., Watervliet Mills, West Troy, N. Y., U. S.

SHAWLS AND WORSTED SUITINGS.
Report. — An excellent and varied display of worsted suitings and plaid shawls, the fonnei
of superior manufacture and design, and the shawls especially creditable for good taste in
color and design, with cheap cost.

432. North Star Mills, Minneapolis, Minn., U. S.

BLANKETS.

Report. — Commended for blankets made of Minnesota and Ohio wools, of very high
excellence and beauty; also for blankets sixty-six inches by eighty-four inches, adapted foi
popular consumption, at low prices.

433. Waterloo Woolen Manufacturing Company, Waterloo, N. Y., U. S.

SHAWLS.
Report. — Plain and fancy woolen shawls, notable for their brilliancy of colors and beauty
of styles.

434. Mission Woolen Mills, San Francisco, Cal., U. S.

BLANKETS.

Report. — Blankets, carriage and lap robes, made of Pacific coast wool, the higher quali-
ties unsurpassed in excellence of fabrication, softness of finish, and tastefulness of borders.

435. Jacobs, Poelaert, & Co., Brussels, Belgium.

BLANKETS.

Report. — Commended for cheapness and adaptation of blankets to general consumption.

246

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GROUP IX, 163

436. Leop. Ph. Hemmer, Aix-la-Chapelle, Germany.

FULLING MILL.

Report, —A model of fulling mill, of excellent construction.

437. James Aked & Sons, Halifax, England.

WORSTED COATINGS.

Report, — ^Worsted coatings of excellent manufacture and at low prices.

438. J. E. & G. P. Buckley, Delph, near Manchester, England.

SHAWLS.

Report, — A small assortment of shawls in creditable styles and at very low cost.

439. Isaac Can & Co., Bath, England.

MELTONS, BEAVERS, AND OVERCOATINGS.

Report, — Meltons, beavers, and overcoatings of superior manufacture and Bnish, at
moderate cost.*

440. Thackray & Co., Leeds, England.

CALF'S HAIR COATINGS.
Report. — A very handsome assortment of calf's hair coatings in beautiful shades and
of excellent manufacture.

441. Ainley, Lord, & Co., Huddersfield, England.

WORSTED COATINGS.
Report, — Well-made worsted coatings of good quality.

442. Jesse Clegg, Huddersfield, England.

COTTON WARP FANCY CHEVIOTS.

Report. — Commended for economy in cost in the manufacture of cotton warp fancy
cheviots of considerable merit, and adaptation for general use.

443. Liddle & Brearley, Huddersfield, England.

WORSTED COATINGS.

Report. — A very creditable exhibit of worsted coatings, in neat designs, well manufac-
tured, and adapted for general use.

444. S. Bachman, New York, N. Y., U. S.

SHAWLS.

Report, — An excellent display of silk and worsted plaid and reversible woolen velvet
shawU, of novel and beautiful designs and excellent fabrication.

445. F. Steffan & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SHAWLS.

Report, — Reversible beaver shawls of wool filling and cotton warp, noticeal)le for origi
nality and taste of design of gray and black stripes, with borders woven in the Jacquard loom.

247

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164 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

446. E. Qootchkof, Moscow, Russia.

CASSIMERES, CLOTHS, AND SHAWLS.
Report. — Very creditable fancy cassimeres, black and colored cloths, and woolen shawls.

447. Baron Stieglitz, near Narva, Russia.

CLOTHS AND BEAVERS.

Report. — Broadcloths, black and colored, beavers, and Moscows, of excellent qualiiiej
and finish.

448. Nikitin, Gorjaef, & Co., Moscow, Russia.

DRESS GOODS AND BAREGES.
Report. — Fancy dress goods, gauzes, and bareges, of wool and silk, in elegant styles.

449. E. Armand & Sons, Moscow, Russia.

ALPACAS AND LUSTRES.

Report. — Merinos, figured alpacas, black and colored lustres, in good qualities and bril
liant colors.

450. Theodore Mikhailof & Son, Moscow, Russia.

SERGES, REPS, AND ALPACAS.

Report. — A fair collection of fancy dress goods, serges, reps, and black and colored alpacas.

451. G. Kommichau, Belostok, Grodno, Russia.

BLANKETS AND RUGS.

Report. — Woolen goods, blankets, and rugs, in creditable qualities.

452. Augustus Shrader, Moscow, Russia.

LUSTRES, CASHMERES, AND PLAIDS.

Report. — A rich assortment of black and colored lustres, cashmeres, and plaids, in gootl
qualities and colors.

453. Ganeshin & Co., Moscow, Russia.

WORSTED YARNS, MOHAIRS, AND ALPACAS.
Report. — A good assortment of single and twisted worsted yams, mohairs, and alpacas.

454. G. P. Uskof, Moscow, Russia.

FANCY DRESS GOODS.

Report. — Fancy dress goods, lions, and plaids, in good qualities and designs.

455. Nicholas Seliverstof, Roomiantzevo, Simbirsk, Russia.

camel's HAIR AND GOAT CLOTHS.

Report. — Cloths woven of goat and camel hair, in natural colors.

456. Poliakof Bros., Moscow, Russia.

FANCY DRESS GOODS.

Report. — Very creditable fancy dress goods in good qualities and moderate prices.

248

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GROUP IX, 165

457. V. N. Soovirof, Tooshino, Moscow, Russia.

WOOLEN CLOTHS.

Report, — Black and colored cloths of medium qualities for general use.

458. Shelaief Brothers, Moscow, Russia.

SATINS.

Report, — Plain black and colored cotton-back satins of excellent manufacture.

459. O. J. Lecloux, Dison, Belgium.

BROADCLOTHS.

Report, — Well-made black and blue broadcloths, adapted to the clothing trade, at cheap
prices.

460. Pran9ois Biolley & Son, Verviers, Belgium.

BROADCLOTHS AND OVERCOATINGS.

Report, — Commended for excellence of manufacture and reasonableness of price of
broadcloths and overcoatings.

461. Domken Bros., Verviers, Belgium.

FANCY CASSIMERES AND WORSTED COATINGS.

Report, — Commended for cheapness, combined with utility, of fancy cassimeres and
worsted coatings.

462. Charles Begasse, Liige, Belgium.

FELTS.

Report, — Well-made felts at cheap prices.

463. Biolley Brothers & Co., Juslenville, Belgium.

FANCY CASSIMERES AND BATISTE CLOTHS.

Report, — Commended for excellent manufacture of fancy cassimeres and batiste cloths.

464. Jean Tast6, Verviers, Belgium.

FANCY CASSIMERES AND MIUTARY CLOTHS.

Report, — Commended for cheapness, combined with utility, of fancy cassimeres and
military cloths.

465. Beuthner Brothers, Berlin, Qermany.

CARD CLOTHING.

Report, — ^A good assortment of card clothing.

466. M. Chatten & Co., Dison, Belgium.

BLACK AND COLORED CLOTHS AND BEAVERS.

Report, — Commended for good fabrication of black and blue cloths and Moscow beavers
at low prices.

249

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1 66 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

467. J. J. Henrion, Dison, Belgium.

FANCY CASSIMERES.

Report. — Commended for good fabrication of fancy cassimeres, with neat designs, and
at low prices.

468. Delhez Brothers, Dison, Belgium.

CLOTHS.

Report. — Cloths, Moscows, and other beavers, adapted to popular consumption, at low

469. Clement Bettonville, Hodimont, Belgium.

MOSCOW BEAVERS AND CLOTHS.

Report, — Commended for fair fabrication and cheapness of price of Moscows and other
beavers.

470. H. J. Lejeune- Vincent, Dison, Belgium.

FANCY CASSIMERES.

Report. — Commended for novelty of design, excellence of manufacture, and adaptation
to public wants, of fancy cassimeres.

471. Peltzer & Son, Verviers, Belgium.

CLOTHS AND DOESKINS.

Report, — Commended for excellent fabrication of broadcloths, doeskins, Moscow beavers,
and chinchillas, at reasonable prices.

472. Iwan Simonis, Verviers, Belgium.

BROADCLOTHS, DOESKINS, AND BATISTE CLOTHS.

Report, — Commended for high excellence of manufacture of superfine black broadcloths
and doeskins * excellence of batiste cloths.

473. H. & J. Dr^ze, Dison, Belgium.

MOSCOW AND OTHER OVERCOATINGS.

Report. — Commended for good fabrication of Moscows and other overcoatings, at cheap
prices.

474. L. & E. Lairitz, Remda, Germany.

VEGETABLE WOOL.

Report: — A fine exhibit of vegetable wool and manufactures thereof; very well made m
every respect.

475. W. Spindler, Berlin, Germany.

DYED AND PRINTED WORSTED YARNS.

Report. — ^A rich collection of dyed and printed worsted yams, in brilliant colors and
perfect shades.

476. Ackens, Grand, Ry, & Co., Eupen, Germany.

CLOTHS.
Report. — Commended for brilliancy and stability of colors, good quality, and cheapness
of tlieir woolen cloths.

250

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GROUP IX. 167

477. C. Delius, Aix-la-Chapelle, Germany.

CLOTHS AND COATINGS.

Report. — Commended for his large production of well-made fancy coatings, at moderate
prices.

478. Alois Knops, Aix-la-Chapelle, Germany.

BLACK AND COLORED CLOTH.

Report. — Carefully and solidly manufactured black and colored cloths and coatings, at
moderate prices.

479. Joh. Wilh. Jansen, Montjoie, Germany.

FANCY CASSl MERES AND COATINGS.

Report. — Excellent fancy cassimeres and overcoatings, produced in elegant styles, fine
qualities, and finish.

480. Wiese Brothers, Werden-on-the-Ruhr, Germany.

CLOTH.
Report. — Cloths and overcoatings distinguished by superiority of material and excellence
of manufacture and finish.

481. I. P. Sch511er, Duhren, Germany.

CLOTHS AND COATINGS.

Report. — Fine cloths and coatings, made of the best wools, with perfect finish.

482. Joh. Erken's Sons, Burtscheid, Germany.

BLACK AND COLORED CLOTHS AND OVERCOATINGS.

Report. — Commended for fineness and finish of doeskins, and for brilliancy of colors and
finish of military cloths.

483. L. Scholler & Sons, Dilhren, Germany.

CLOTHS AND COATINGS.

Report. — A rich assortment of cloths and worsted coatings, in the best qualities and
highest finish.

484. Massing Brothers & Co., Piittlingen, Germany.

BLACK SIIJC PLUSHES.

Report. — A remarkable assortment of hatters' black silk plushes, of great beauty in color
and finish.

485. Paul Scholz, Friedberg, Germany.

WOOLEN STOCKINGS.

Report. — An exhibit of woolen felted stockings, commendable for their good execution
and great durability.

486. Seret & Turull, Barcelona, Spain.

SHAWLS AND BLANKETS.

Report. — Shawls and blankets of good qualities.

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487. Josi JorcUi & Son, Alcoy, Alicante, Spain.

WOOLEN CLOTHS.
Report, — A collection of cheap fancy cassimeres.

488. Bresca & Co., Barcelona, Spain.

MERINO.
Report, — Merinos and merino shawls of good qualities.

489. Joaquin Casanovos & Son, Sabadell, Barcelona, Spain.

WOOLEN CLOTHS.
Report, — A good collection of faiicy cassimeres, at low prices.

490. Maiquez & Tom&s, Valencia, Spain.

MANTLE CLOTHS.

Report, — Spanish mantles of original designs.

491. Juan Sallares & Son, Sabadell, Barcelona, Spain.

WOOLEN CLOTHS.
Report, — Fancy cassimeres in creditable qualities and at moderate prices.

492. Rodriguez Brothers, Bejar, Salamanca, Spain.

WOOLEN CLOTHS.
Report, — Black and colored cloths in creditable qualities, at low prices.

493. Tarrat & Sociats, Teruel, Spain.

WOOLEN CLOTHS.

Report, — Colored cloths of good qualities and colors, at low prices.

494. Francisco Sanchez, Seville, Spain.

GOLD BRAIDS.

Report, — A good assortment of gold braids of veiy creditable manufacture.

495. Sert Brothers & SoU, Barcelona, Spain.

WORSTED GOODS.

Report. — A large display of dress goods, upholstering materials, shawls, blankets, carpets,
and plushes, in great variety of qualities and good designs.

496. Bernardo Daupias & Co., Lisbon, Portugal.

CASSIMERES, PONCHAS, AND SHAWLS.

Report. — A creditable assortment of fancy cassimeres, ponchas, and woolen shawls.

497. Constant Bumay, Lisbon, Portugal.

CASSIMERES, FLANNELS, AND BLANKETS.

Report. — A very creditable exhibition of fancy cassimeres, flannels, and blankets.

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498. Antonio Alves Bibiano, Pedrogao Grande, Portugal.

BLACK CLOTHS.
Kiport. — Black cloths in creditable qualities and at low prices.

499- Collective Exhibition of the Tilburg Wool Industry, Tilburg, Netherlands.

BLANKETS AND FLANNELS.

Report. — A large collection of blankets, white and colored flannels, fancy cassimeres,
beavers, and kerseys, in creditable qualities and at low prices.

500. Clinton Mills Co., Norwich, Conn., U. S

BLANKETS.

Report. — Blankets of low grade and cheap price.

501. Norway Plains Co., Rochester, N. H., U. S.

BLANKETS.

Report. — Blankets of fine and medium grade, of excellent manufacture, at moderate
prices, noticeable for cleanness of stock and freedom from grease.

502. Campo Grande Woolen Fabrics Co., Lisbon, Portugal.

CLOTHS AND SHAWLS.
Report. — A good assortment of black and blue cloths and shawls.

503. Otto von Bauer, Briinn, Moravia, Austria.

FANCY CASSIMERES.

Report. — A very good collection of fancy cassimeres, of good finish and neat designs, at
moderate prices.

504. Emanuel Thieben, Vienna, Austria.

SHAWLS AND KOBES.
Report. — Well-made long shawls and morning robes, in Oriental styles.

505. J. Philip Schmidt & Sons, Reichenberg, Bohemia, Austria.

BLACK AND COLORED CLOTHS.

Report. — Commended for excellent finish and material of black and blue broadcloths.

506. Hlawatsch & Isbary, Vienna, Austria.

SHAWLS.

Tieport. — Excellent shawls of fine material and good designs in India styles.

507. Wilhelm Siegmund, Reichenberg, Bohemia, Austria.

BROADCLOTHS AND DOESKINS.

Report. — Commended for high excellence and finish of superfine broadcloths and doe-
skins.

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508. Qiov. Bozzalla & Brother, Biella, Italy.

CASSIMERES.

Report, — A creditable exhibit of fancy cassimeres, in good designs, and at moderate
prices.

509. Antonio Bozzalla & Brother, Coggiola, Italy.

OASSIMERES.

Report. — A creditable exhibit of fancy cassimeres, in good designs, and at modemie
prices.

510. Bergsbro Manufacturing Co., Norrkoping, Sweden.

CASSIMERES.

Report, — Fancy cassimeres of excellent manufacture and design.

511. Drag Manufacturing Co. (Limited), Norrkoping, Sweden.

FANCY CASSIMERES AND OVERCOATINGS.
Report. — Fancy cassimeres, rating, and other overcoatings, doeskins and tricots of supe-
rior manufacture and finish.

512. Malmo Wool Manufacturing Co. (Limited), Malmo, Sweden.

CASSIMERES AND COATINGS.

Report. — Fancy cassimeres and worsted coatings, for general consumption, good for the
cost of production.

513. Starkey Brothers, Huddersfield, England.

BEAVERS AND DOESKINS.

Report. — Beavers, Venetians, doeskins, and woaded cloths, of excellent manufacture,
color, and finish.

514. Ballarat Woolen Co., Ballarat, Victoria, Australia.

TWEEDS, SHAWLS, AND FLANNELS.

Report. — Tweeds, shawls, and flannels of honest and substantial manufacture, at mod-
erate cost and good for general use.

515. Alexander Gray Co., Albion Woolen Mills, Geelong, Victoria, Australia.

TWEEDS AND SHAWLS.

Report. — All wool tweeds, in a handsome assortment of shawls and patterns, and of
honest and substantial manufacture.

516. William King, Morley, Leeds, England.

COTTON WARP CLOTHS.

Report. — Commended for economy and cost of cotton warp cloths, of excellent make and
finish.

517. Charles Hooper & Co., Stonehouse, Gloucestershire, England.

CLOTHS, BEAVERS, AND DOESKINS.

Report. — An excellent assortment of black and blue superfine cloths; scarlet, cnmson,
and other fine military cloths of brilliant and permanent colors ; kerseys of close and fine
texture ; Hooper's web, a specialty of the house ; elysians, beavers, and doeskins ; all of a
high order of merit, and comprising an unusual variety for one manufactory.

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518. Thomas Mallinson & Sons, Huddersfield, England.

FANCY CHEVIOTS.
Report. — A small assortment of fancy cheviots, of superior manufacture, at low prices,
and adapted for general consumption.

519. Marling & Co., Stroud, England.

CLOTHS AND BEAVERS.

Report. — An excellent assortment of superfine cloths, beavers, doeskins, and cassimeres,
of superior merit and of permanent colors and finish.

520. Samuel Salter & Co., Trowbridge, Wilts, England.

FANCY CASSIMERES.

Report. — A very handsome assortment of fancy cassimeres in novel styles, and ac
moderate prices.

521. John Day & Son, Huddersiield, England.

CHEVIOT COATINGS.

Report. — Cheviot coatings, of excellent manufacture, at small cost, and adapted for
general use.

522. Joseph Buckley & Co., Delph, near Manchester, England.

COTTON AND WOOL SHAWLS.

Report. — Cotton and wool shawls, in tasteful patterns and combinations, at low cost.

523. John Taylor & Sons, Great Britain.

WORSTED COATINGS AND SILK AND WOOL CASSIMERES.
Report. — Worsted coatings and fancy cassimeres of silk and wool, of excellent manu-
facture and neat patterns.

524. Harg^eave & Nusseys, Leeds, England.

WORSTED COATINGS.

Report. — Worsted coatings, medium cloths, tweeds, and meltons; all of superior quality,
excellent manufacture, and at low prices.

525. T. W. Little & Co., Leeds, England.

UNION CLOTHS.

Report. — Mixed union cloths, birds'-eye, and tweeds, at low cost, adapted for general
consumption.

526. William Child, Huddersiield, England.

MOHAIR SEALSKINS.

Report, — ^A very fine exhibit of mohair sealskins, tipped seal and dog skins, of
exceedingly fine quality, rich material and finish; all of the highest order of merit.

527. M. Mahony & Bros., Cork, Ireland.

BLARNEY TVVEEDS.

Report. — A complete assortment of Blarney tweeds, in a great variety of colors, patterns,
and qualities ; all of a high order of merit, and most useful goods for general consumption.

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528. Henry Andrews & Co., Leeds, England.

COATINGS AND COTTON WARP.
Report. — Worsted coatings, cotton warp, melton, and water-proof, of excellent manu-
facture, and at low cost.

529. J. D. Birchall & Co., Leeds, England.

V TWEEDS AND COATINGS.

Report, — A very complete assortment of light tweeds, of beautiful colors and texture ;
also worsted coatings, meltons, and beavers ; all of superior merit, at moderate cost, and
adapted for general use.

530. J. Vicars, Sydney, New South Wales, Australia.

TWEEDS, PLAIDS, AND SHAWLS.

Report. — ^Tweeds, plaids, and shawls of honest and substantial manufacture, made of
domestic wool, and very creditable for a new country.

531. B. Hcpworth & Sons, Dewsbury, England.

LAP ROBES AND RUGS.

Report, — Lap robes and rugs, in great variety of pattern and of excellent manufacture ;
also ingenuity of process of shearing rugs so as to produce an imitation of an animal's
skin.

532. The Kanoko-shosha Co., Kiyoto, Japan.

DYED CRAPES.
Report, — Commended for excellent production of tie and dye (Kanoko) crapes.

533. Custodio Lopes da Silva Quimaraes, Penafiel, Portugal.

GOLD AND SILVER GALLOONS AND GIMP.
Report, — A good assortment and well made gold and silver galloons and gimp

534. Ramires & Ramires, Lisbon, Portugal.

COLORED SILKS, VESTINGS, AND RICH BROCATELLES.

Report. — Black and colored failles of excellent manufacture in every respect; rich
brocatelles of good design and execution.

535. John Kemperling & Sons, Vienna, Austria.

CIGAR AND HATTERS' RIBBONS.

Report. — Silk, and silk and cotton, cigar and hatters' ribbons, of medium grade, in a
great variety of colors and designs. The goods are very effective and of good manufacture,
both with regard to combination of materials and to their execution.

536. Usni Hadji, Brousse, Turkey.

FELTS.

Report.— Felts of excellent quality.

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537. Joh. Schwarx & Son, Vienna, Austria.

HATTERS* RIBBONS.
Report. — specialty of hatters* ribbons, very deariy and neatly made ; first-rate in manu-
facture in every respect.

538. Piqua Woolen Mills, F. Gray, O'Farrell & Co., Piqua, Ohio, U. S.

PAPER -MAKERS' WET AND PRESS FELTS AND JACKETS.

Report. — A creditable exhibit of Fourdrinier print, cylinder print, wrapping, second
press, and jacket felts for paper-makers* use.

539. Alfred Dolge, New York, N. Y., U. S.

FELTS.

Report. — ^A superb exhibit of piano felt, made from Silesian wool, jewelers* and marble
masons* polishing felts ; all of creditable fabrication.

540. Collective Exhibition of Weavers from Nagahama, Province of Omi, Japan

WHITE CRAPES.

Report. — A very fine assortment of white silk crapes, showing great clearness in coloi
and regularity in texture, particularly those marked " Nishigori.**

541. National Manufactory of Gobelins, Paris, France.

GOBELINS.

Report. — Splendid specimens of Gobelin tapestry, representing this celebrated establish-

ment.

542. Ministry of the Colonies, The Hague, Netherlands.

GOLD EMBROIDERY STUFFS.

Report. — ^A splendid collection of silk and Oriental tissues, superb in design and perfect
in workmanshio ; highly meritorious for the great care bestowed on this exhibit.

543. National Tapestry Manufactory of Beauvais, Beauvais, France.

TAPESTRY.

Report. — Very fine specimens of artistically woven tapestry, perfect in design, combina-
tion of colors, and general execution.

544. The Bickmesrer Hat Blocking Machine Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

HAT-MAKING MACHINERY.

Report. — ^Ingenious, novel, and highly valuable labor-saving machinery, adapted for the
making of hats, extensively used in this manufacture in place of hand processes, to wit, a
hat-tip stretching machine, a universal hat pouncing machine, and hat ironing machine.

545. Norris & Co., London, England.

UPHOLSTERY GOODS.
Report. — A fine display of upholstery silks, of good styles and well manufactured.
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546. Henry Noske, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

PAPRR-MAKERS' FELTS.

Report, — ^Well-made paper-makers* felts.

547. Novelty Weaving and Braiding Works, Tobias Kohn, Hartford, Conn., U. S.

BRAIDS.

Report, — A very fine exhibit of braids, well made in every respect as to quality and
color.

548. Shuler & Benninghofen, Hamilton, Ohio, U. S.

PAPER-MAKERS' FELTS.

Report. — ^Well-made felts for paper-making.

549. W. H. Horstmann & Sons, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

DRESS, CARRIAGE, AND UPHOLSTERY TRIMMINGS.

Report. — A splendid exhibit of dress, carriage, and uphobtery trimmings, of great excel-
lence and beauty in style, material, and execution ; also a very handsome and complete
assortment of woolen and mohair yams, known to the trade as Germantown, cashmere,
Saxonia, Shetland, and Balmoral yams, of brilliant colors, variety of shades, and regularity
of spinning.

550. Frecon 8r., ft Leclerq, Amiens, Prance.

CHEMICAL PROCESS FOR REMOVING FIBRES FROM WOOLENS.

Report. — An interesting exhibit of cloths illustrating a chemical process for removing
fibres of burrs, thistles, and vegetable particles from woolen fabrics, the samples showing
extraordinary efficiency in the process employed, and indicating a discovery of great prac-
tical value.

551. E. Roussel, Roubaix, France.

DYED STUFFS.

Report. — A very fine collection of piece-dyed woolens, perfect in shade and finish.

552. L. Dupont, Beauvais, France.

UPHOLSTERIES AND AXMINSTER CARPETS.
Report. — Commended for excellence and originality of designs in tapestry and upholstery
fabrics ; also Axminster carpets of superior quality and beautiful designs.

553. S. B. ft M. Fleisher, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

BRAIDS.

Report. — A fine exhibit of the ** Star" alpaca braids, of superior manufacture, perfect in
colors, and of the best materials, placing this braid in the first rank*

554. William Strange ft Co., Paterson, N. J., U S.

RIBBONS.

Report. — Commended for an extremely fine exhibit of plain and fancy ribbons, of good
materials, well made in every respect ; also for sash and millinery ribbons of great beauty
and superior quality.

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GROUP IX. ,75

555. Enterprise Co., Woonsocket, R. I., U. 8.

SHOE LASTINGS.

Report. — A very creditable exhibit of 1 1, 14, and 16 thread lastings of honest make and
guod quality for the number of threads. The goods are well adapted for the manufacture
of boots and shoes.

556. Newichawanick Company, South Berwick, Me., U. S.

HORSE BLANKETS.
Report. — An excellent exhibit of horse blankets in great variety of styles.

557. Pontoosuc Woolen Manufacturing Co., Pittsfield, Mass., U. S.

ROBES AND BLANKETS.

Report. — An excellent exhibit of lap and railway robes, all made of California wool;
the Pullman palace and Wagner's blankets are particularly noteworthy.

558. D. Goff & Son, Pawtucket, R. I., U. S.

ALPACA BRAIDS.

Report. — A complete assortment of alpaca braids, in a beautiful variety of colors and
mixtures, of uniform width and length, and admirably adapted for trimming ladies' dresses.

559. Q. L. Kelty & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

TERRIES AND DAMASKS FOR UPHOLSTERY PURPOSES.

Report. — Plain, figured, and striped terries and damasks for upholsterers* use, substantially
made, and of neat designs.

560. John Sytof, St. Petersburg, Russia.

GOLD DAMASKS.

Report. — Silk and velvet brocades, and velvets made of silk, silver, and gold, of great
beauty in design and excellent manufacture ; also trimmings of the same materials.

561. Michael Borodin, Moscow, Russia.

GAUZES.

Report. — A very fine exhibit of gauzes and fancy dress goods, in very good taste and of
perfect execution.

562. Mosjookhin & Sons, Moscow, Russia.

DAMASKS AND BROCADES.

Report. — A fine display of rich furniture silk damasks of great perfection in the execution.

563. Alexander Timashef, Moscow, Russia.

GAUZES.

Report. — ^A large display of striped and fancy gauzes, veiy well made.

564. Braquenie Brothers, Malines, Belgium.

TAPESTRIES.

Report. — A rich collection of tapestries (Gobelins), of excellent workmanship, and designs
of a veiy high artistic merit.

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565. Hauzeur-Oerard Son, Verviers, Belgium.

YARNS.
Report. — Excellent carded yams in great variety and brilliancy of color.

566. Armand Jamme, Saint-Hadelin, Belgium.

CARDED YARNS.

Report. — Well -spun carded yams of great variety of colors.

567. Bergmann & Co., Berlin, Germany.

DYED ZEPHYR WOOL,

Report. — Commended for the brilliancy of colors, perfection and variety of shadings of
their Berlin wools.

568. Heinrich Hilffer, Crimmitschau, Germany.

VIGOGNE YARNS.

Report. — Commended for the good assortment, large production, and cheapness of his
vigogne yams.

569. WUrtemberg Wool Felt Co., Giengen o. B., Germany.

FELTS.

Report. — A rich collection of wool felts in great perfection.

570. Tittel & Krfiger, Leipsic, Germany.

DYED WORSTED YARNS.

Report. — ^Well-dyed worsted yams, in brilliant colors.

571. Worsted Yam Co., Kaiserslautem, Germany.

WORSTED YARNS.

Report. — Commended for large production of fine worsted yams for weaving purposes,
in great variety of qualities, colors, and mixtures.

572. Dufour & Co., Thai, Switzerland.

SILK BOLTING-CLOTH.
Report. — Bolting-cloth of good manufacture, well adapted for the purpose.

573. SI. Siegenthaler, Enggistein, Switzerland.

FELTS.

Report. — A good collection of felts for shoes and hats, for general use, and at moderate
prices.

574. Meyer Brothers, Zurich, Switzerland.

BOLTING-CLOTH.
Report. — Bolting-cloth of great regularity and perfection of quality.

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GROUP IX. 177

575. Heidegger, Wegmann, & Co., Seefeld, Zurich, Switzerland.

SILK BOLTING-CLOTH.
Report. — Bolting-cloth remarkable in all grades for superior manufacture and regularity.

576. Egli & Sennhauser, Zurich, Switzerland.

BOLTING-CLOTH.

Report, — Bolting-cloth in great variety ; evenly and well made.

577. Reiff-Huber, Zurich, Switzerland.

BOLTING-CLOTH.

Report. — A large variety of bolting-cloths, deserving special merit for great perfection in
their manufacture.

578. Mehmed Erwin, Constantinople, Turkey.

FURNITURE BROCADES.

Report. — A great display of divan figured velvets of rich design and good execution.

579. Giorgi Melouk, Damascus, Turkey.

GOLD FIGURED VESTMENTS.

Report. — Rich damask mantle of great beauty in material, design, and execution.

580. F. A. Jevaijeief, St. Petersburg, Russia.

SILVER AND GOLD FABRICS FOR CHURCH VESTMENTS.

Report. — A magnificent display of sacerdotal vestments, made of silver and gold tissues,
of excellent execution, preserving the traditional splendor of the Greek Church.

581. Gibb & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

CARPETS.

Report. — An exhibit of cotton- warp and rag-filling carpet of substantia] manufacture, at
fair prices ; especially adapted for kitchen or common use.

582. Ballard Vale MUls, Ballard Vale, Mass., U. S.

FLANNELS.

Report. — An exhibit of all wool flannels from No. I to 5, including extra and double
extra, all highly meritorious ; the four-fourths silk warp wool filling and four-fourths silk
warp gauze especially commendable for perfection of fabrication.

583. Leedom, Shaw, & Stewart, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

CARPETS.

Report. — A creditable exhibit of extra super carpets and damask Venetians, of good
designs, especially noticeable for low prices.

584. McCallum, Crease, ft Sloan, Philadelphia,^Pa., U. S.

CARPETS.

Report. — An excellent exhibit of two and three ply ingrain carpets, unexceptionable in
texture, design, and color, the material and fabrication indicating excellent wearing
qualities.

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585. Seffarlen ft Fritz, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

RAG-CARPET YARNS.

Report. — An excellent exhibit of wool and cotton rag-carpet yams, made from carpet
noils, in a great variety of shades ; the solferino, pink, and orange especially noteworthy.

586. The Society of Friends of Handiwork, Stockholm, Sweden.

CARPETS AND RUGS.
Report. — A beautiful exhibit of carpets and rugs, in the ancient traditional styles of the
country of production, made by hand.

587. Mrs. E. B. Shapleigh, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

HAND-MADE RUGS.

Report. — Two rugs made of carpet yarns by the process denominated hooking, being a
novel and tasteful adaptation from a domestic industry largely pursued in the State of
Maine, and capable of extensive application by ladies for household decoration.

588. P. de Andria ft Co., Smyrna, Turkey.

CARPETS.

Report, — A splendid collection of Turkish carpets, excellent in style and quality.

589. J. G. McGee ft Co., Belfast, Ireland.

RUGS AND WRAPS.

Report. — A very handsome assortment of rugs and traveling wraps, made chiefly of
mohair, silk, and wool, in imitation of real furs, otter, sealskin, and beavers; all of superior
merit and beautiful combinations.

590. John ft James Dobson, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

CARPETS, BLANKETS, AND OVERCOATINGS.

Report. — A varied exhibit of carpetings, all attractive in design and desirable as low
and medium grades at moderate prices; also blankets, all wool fur beavers, and chinchillas,
adapted for the masses.

591. C. W. ft J. Pcirce, Bristol, Pa., U. S.

FELTS, CRUMB-CLOTHS, AND FELT SKIRTS.

Report. — A capital display of felts for carpetings, skirts, and other purposes, made of all
wool and cotton and wool ; the fabrication substantial and excellent, the designs of the
carpetings and crumb-cloths remarkable for originality and beauty.

592. Taylor ft Mullen, Newark, Del., U. S.

CARPETS AND MATS.

Report, — A creditable exhibit of rag carpets and mats.

593. Hartford Carpet Co., Hartford, Conn., U. S.

CARPETS.

Report. — A capital exhibit of Brussels and two and three ply ingrain carpets, all of the
best fabrication; the designs original and tasteful, and the colors clear and bright; the
material and texture indicating high wearing qualities. The exhibit is illustrative of a
vast production.

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GROUP IX. lyg

594. Roxbury Carpet Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

TAPESTRY AND VELVET CARPETS.
Report. — A superior exhibit of tapestry Brussels and tapestry velvet carpets, of high
excellence in texture, color, and original design; the pile conspicuous for its length, indi-
cating good wearing qualities.

595. Alexander Smith & Sons Carpet Co., Yonkers, N. Y., U. S.

CARPETS.

Report, — ^A beautiful display of Axminster and tapestiy Brussels and tapestry velvet
carpets, the latter excellent in texture and design ; the Axminster carpets distinguished for
great beauty of design, color, and texture, and remarkable as made by original automatic
machinery introduced by the senior exhibitor.

596. Lowell Manufacturing Co., Lowell, Mass., U. S.

CARPETS AND LASTINGS.

Report. — An imposing exhibit of Brussels, Wilton, and two and three ply ingrains, all
of the best fabrication ; the designs original and tasteful, and the colors clear and bright ;
the material and texture indicating excellent wearing qualities. The exhibit is illustrative
of a vast production. Commended also for lastings.

597. Monitor Mills, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

CARPETS.

Report. — An excellent exhibit of two and three ply ingrains, specially noticeable for
originality of certain patriotic designs, and of good quality and fair prices.

598. Bigelow Carpet Co., Clinton, Mass., U. S.

CARPETS,

Report. — A brilliant display of Brussels and Wilton carpets, in material, texture, design,
and color possessing all the elements of the highest manufacture ; the Wiltons especially
conspicuous for chasteness of design and perfection of fabrication.

599. John Bromley & Sons, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

CARPETS.

Report. — ^A good exhibit of super and extra-super ingrain and damask Venetian carpets,
tastefully designed and unexceptionable in fabrication.

600. J. & H. Hutchison, Brooklyn, N. Y., U. S.

MATS.

Report. — A capital exhibit of cocoa and brush mats, with and without wool borders ;
excellent in design and quality, and at fair prices.

601. Ivins, Dietz, & Magee, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

CARPETS.

Report. — The only exhibit of cotton and wool and cotton ingrains, of excellent designs,
at very low prices.

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602. The Read Carpet Co., Bridgeport, Conn., U. S.

CARPETS AND CARPET TERRY.
Report, — Commended for two-ply ingrain carpets, excellent in design and finish; for
originality in weaving the same with variegated yams, increasing the number of colors;
and for all wool carpet terries, serviceable and novel, adapted for libraries and offices.

603. Clement Gravier, Ntmes, Prance.

CARPETS.

R*iu>rt, — Commended for excellence of design and execution of carpets.

604. Dienelt & Eisenhardt, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

GEE NON-SHXHTLE POWER CARPET LOOM.

Report, — A needle loom of ingenious construction, and a Jacquard loom for weaving silk
scarfs.

605. Armand Gu6dan & Co., Ntmes, France.

AXMINSTER CARPETS.

Report, — Axminster carpets of finest quality and beautiful designs.

606. Gevers & Schmidt, Schmiedeberg, Germany.

SMYRNA CARPETS.

Report. — A rich assortment of imitations of Smyrna carpets of superior quality and taste-
ful Turkish styles.

607. Gustav Schweinburg, Vienna, Austria.

CARPETS.

Report. — A good assortment of substantial carpets for general use, at moderate prices.

608. Julius Schnabel, Oravitza, Austria.

CARPETS.

Report, — A collection of Slavonic carpets in original styles.

609. Ig^az Ginzkey, Maffersdorf, Bohemia, Austria.

BLANKETS AND CARPETS.

Report. — Blankets and carpets distinguished for taste of design, beauty of dye, and
excellence of finish.

610. A. G. Gaijeanne ft Co., Delft, Netherlands.

CARPETS.

Report, — Imitations of Smyrna carpets, of good qualities and taste.

611. Jan Heukensfeldt, Delft, Netherlands.

CARPETS.

Report. — Imitations of Smyrna carpets of good qualities.

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612. Royal Carpet Manufactory, Dcvcntcr, Netherlands.

CARPETS.

Report, — A fine collection of imitations of Smyrna carpets in tasteful designs.

613. Said Effendi, Sivas, Turkey.

CARPETS.

^<^/f.— Turkish carpets of beautiful designs.

614. Edver, Diarbekir, Turkey.

CARPETS.

Report, — Turkish carpets of distinguished styles.

615. Tomkinson & Adam, Kidderminster, England.

CARPETS.
Report. — A fine collection of Axminster carpets in beautiful qualities and magnificent
designs.

616. Henderson & Co., Durham, England.

AXMINSTER CARPETS.

Report, — A fine and rich assortment of Axminster carpets of admirable designs and
qualities.

617. Mehmet Oglou Alichan, Turgosklou, Turkey.

CARPETS.

Report, — ^Turkish carpets, very well made in every respect

618. Mohamet, Angora, Turkey.

CARPETS.

Report. — Commended for excellence of quality and very fine combination of colors of
Turkish carpets.

619. John Crossley & Sons (Limited), Halifax, England.

CARPETS.

Report. — A large collection of tapestry, Brussels, velvet, and Wilton carpets, in superior
qualities and at moderate prices.

620. John Lewis, Halifax, England.

CARPETS.

Report. — A collection of Brussels and Wilton carpets of best qualities and exquisite
ityles.

621. J. & J. S. Templeton, Glasgow, Scotland.

CARPETS.

Report. — Commended for a rich variety of Wilton and Brussels carpets in admirable
designs and superior qualities, and especially for patent brocade curtains, silk and wool, in
I he mtxst elegant designs and combinations of colors.

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622. James Templeton & Co., Glasgow, Scotland.

CARPETS.

Report. — A superior assortment of Axminster carpets, in exquisite styles and of best
quality.

623. S. R. Parkhurst, Newark, N. J., U. S.

DOUBLE-CYUNDER BURR-PICKER.

Report, — Well-constructed burring machines.

624. Doman Bros. & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

POWER CARPET LOOM.

Report, — An ingenious needle loom in which the colored weft to be thrown is selected
by a Jacquard and raised so as to bring it within the range of the reciprocating needle ;
this carries it half way across the shed, where it is met by a hook, which in retreating
carries the bight of the weft to the other selvage, where it is knit in by a latch needle.

625. M. A. Furbush & Son, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S

SET OF CARDING MACHINES.

Report, — A series of carding machines, well built, and showing several very valuable
improvements ; also a Murkland loom, showing simplicity, excellence of finish in work, and
great production.

626. James Butterworth & Son, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

RAG PICKER AND* RAG DUSTER.

Report. — ^Two machines, a rag waste and shoddy picker, and a rag duster, both of good
workmanship.

627. Soci6t6 Houget et Teston, Bide & Co., Verviers, Belgium.

WOOL-PICKING AND CLEANING MACHINE.

Report. — Wool-picking and cleaning machine ; condenser card and fulling mill ; all of
excellent construction.

62S. Thomas Stevens, Coventry, England.

SILK LOOM AND SILK FIGURED RIBBONS.
Report, — Silk loom of excellent and quite original construction, design, and quality ;
result excellent and economical ; new and excellent plan to lessen the pressure of the
cards in the Jacquard machine. The large variety of figured and emblematical silk ribbons
evinces the highest perfection.

629. S. H. Powers, Woodstock, New Brunswick.

HAND LOOM.

Report, — A useful hand loom for domestic purposes.

630. James Smith & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

MACHINES AND CARD CLOTHING.

Report. — A machine for washing wool and a garnet machine or hand-waste card, both
of excellent and simple construction and good workmanship ; also a very creditable exhibit
of card clothing.

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631. Thames River Worsted Co., Norwich, Conn., U. S.

SPINNING FRAME.
Report. — Commended for a ring and traveler spinning frame for worsteds.

632. Rodney Hunt Machine Co., Orange, Mass., U. S.

FULLING MILL.

Report. — A useful fulling mill.

633. James Short, New Brunswick, N. J., U. S.

CARPET LOOM.

Report. — ^A tapestry carpet loom with an ingenious positive motion.

634. George Crompton, Worcester, Mass., U. S.

LOOMS.
Report. — The best looms for fancy weaving on shawls, cassimeres, and satinets, em-
bracing original inventions, ingenious construction, and excellent workmanship.

635. B. A. Earl, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

WOOL-OILING MACHINERY.

Report. — A useful wool-oiling attachment for carding machines.

636. Woonsocket Machine Co., Woonsocket, R. I., U. S.

SELF-ACTING SPINNING MILL.
Report. — A self-acting spinning mill of excellent construction and good workmanship.

637. John D. Cutter ft Co., Paterson, N. J., U. S.

SEWING-SILK AND SILK MACHINERY.
Report. — Black and colored sewing-silks and machine twist, excellent in every respect,
and particularly distinguished for the great regularity obtained through their new system
of grading the sizes. The machinery exhibited for the purpose of spooling and measuring
the silk is of ingenious construction and good workmanship.

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SIGNING JUDGES OF GROUP IX.

The numbers annexed to the names of the Judges indicate the reports written by them
respectively.

Hayami Kenzo, I, 7, 45, 46, 48, 50, 55, 56, 99, 103, 104, 105, 109, no, iii, 145.

GusTAv Gebhard, 2, 3, 4, 5, 8, 11, 13, 14, i7» 24, 26, 28, 30, 33, 39, 47, 49, 51, 52,
54, 58, 59. 60, 61, 62, 64, 70, 7i» 74, 77, 79, 80, 81, 87, 88, 89, 90, 100, 102, 106, 107,
108, 114, 115, 122, 124, 129, 131, 133, 134, 140, 142, 146, 148, 151, 152, 153, 154, 156,
180, 337, 338, 340, 408, 458» 541, 542, 543. 547, 549, 55^, 561. 574, 578, 579, 580, 588,

603, 628, 637.

John G. Neeser, 6, 18, 19, 20, 22, 31, 40, 43, 44, 66, 68^ 72, 91, 130, 141, 143, 155,
484, 494, 533, 534, 54©.

Max Weigert, 9, 10, 157, 162, 169, 170, 177, 179, 191, 213, 231, 232, 245, 279, 298,
324, 332, 342,* 346, 375, 418, 436, 438, 439, 444, 445, 44^, 447, 448, 449, 450. 4Sh 452,
453, 454, 456, 457, 459, 4^5, 474, 475, 485, 486, 487, 488, 489, 490, 49', 492, 493, 495»
496, 497, 498, 499, 502, 508, 509, 519, 520, 523, 525, 536, 564, 573, 584, 595, 59^, 598,

604, 605, 606, 607, 608, 610, 611, 612, 613, 614, 615, 616, 617, 618, 619, 620, 621, 622,
625, 627, 629, 631, 632, 633, 634, 635, 636.

Charles Le Boutillier, 12, 15, 25, 27, 29, 32, 42, 57, 63, 73, 75, 82, 93, 117, 119,
120, 121, 123, 126, 127, 128, 132, 135, 136, 144, 149, 150, 181, 407, 554, 560, 562.

Eluot C. Cowdin, 16, 21, 23, 53, 65, 67, 69, 76, 85, 86, 92, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, loi,
112, 113, 138, 406, 535, 537, 545, 553, 563, 572, 575, 57^, 577. 602.

August Behmer, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 41, 147, 339, 532.

Louis Chatel, 78, 83, 116, 118, 125, 137, 139.

Charles J. Ellis, 84, 171, 178, 185, 329, 330, 343, 360, 362, 363, 365, 366, 367, 368,
369, 372, 373, 374, 383, 384, 385. 386, 387. 388. 389. 390, 391. 392. 393, 394, 395. 39^,
397, 398, 399, 404, 409, 410, 4", 412, 416, 419, 424, 425, 426, 428, 429, 431, 433, 434,
460, 461, 462, 464, 468, 470, 472, 500, 501. 538, 539. 546, 552, 556, 557, 581, 583. 585,
590. 591. 593. 597. 599. 600, 601, 624.

Henry Mitchell, 158, 163, 164, 165, 166, 167, 168, 172, 190, 192, 193, 195, 196, 197,
198, *I99, 200, 201, 202, 203, 204, 205, 206, 207, 208, 209, 210, 211, 212, 214, 215, 216,
217, 218, 234, 235, 236, 237, 238, 239, 240, 241, 242, 243, 244, 246, 248, 250, 251. 252,
253. 254. 255, 256, 257, 258, 259, 260, 261, 262, 263, 264, 265, 266, 267, 268, 269, 270,
271, 272, 273, 274, 275, 276, 277, 278, 280, 281, 282, 283, 284, 285, 286, 287, 288, 289,
290, 291, 292, 293, 294, 295, 296, 297, 299, 300, 301, 302, 303, 304, 305, 306, 307, 308.
309. 310. 3". 3»2, 313, 314, 315. 3»6. 317. 318, 319, 320, 321, 322, 323, 325, 326, 327.
328, 331, 333, 341, 344, 347, 349, 35©, SSh 352, 353, 354, 355, 356, 357, 358, 359, 370,
371, 382, 400, 401, 402, 403, 4^7, 440, 441, 442, 443, 476, 477, 478, 479, 480, 481, 482,
483, 513, 514, 515, 516, 517, 518, 521, 522, 524. 526, 527, 528, 529, 530. 531. 555. 558,
567, 568, 569, 570, 571, 589.

John L. Hayes, 159, 160, 161, 173, 174, 175, 176, 182, 187, 189, 194, 219, 220, 221,
222, 223, 224, 225, 226, 227, 228, 229, 230, 247, 334, 335, 336, 345, 348, 361, 364, 376,
377, 378, 379, 380, 405, 413, 414, 415, 417, 420, 421, 422, 423. 427, 430, 432, 435, 463,
466, 467, 469, 471, 473, 503, 504, 505, 506, 507, 544, 548, 550, 559, 565, 566, 582, 586,
587, 592, 594, 609, 623.

Theodore Bochner, Jr., 183, 233, 381, 455, 626, 630.

J. D. Lang, 184, 188.

Carl Arnberg, 249, 510, 511, 512.

Edward H. Knight, 186.

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SUPPLEMENT TO GROUP IX.

REPORTS

JUDGES ONAPPEALS.

JUDGES.

John Fritz, Bethlehem, Pa.
Edward Conlky, Cincinnati, Ohio.
Charles Staples, Jr., Portland, Me.
Benj. F. Britton, New York City.
H. H. Smith, Philadelphia, Pa.

Coleman Sellers, Philadelphia, Pa.
James L. Claghorn, Philadelphia, Pa.
Henry K. Oliver, Salem, Mass.
M. Wilkins, Harrisburg, Oregon.
S. F. Baird, Washington, D. C.

1. Sanford Mills, Sanford, Me., U. S.

LAP ROBES.

Report. — Commended for excellence in color and general finish, fitness for purpose,
together with economy in cost.

2. French & Co., Norwich, England.

NORWICH CRAPE, IN SINGLE, DOUBLE, AND TREBLE.

Report, — Commended for a high degree of excellence in texture and finish.

3. Wilhelm Schroeder & Co., Zurich, Switzerland.

SILKS.

Report. — A large display of dress silks, excellent in texture and color.

4. Homberger Bros., Wetzikon, Switzerland.

SILK BOLTING-CLOTH.

Report. — Commended for uniformity in texture and fitness for purpose intended.

5. Baumann & Streuli, Horgen, Switzerland.

DRESS SILKS, CHANGEABLE COLORS.

Report. — Commended as excellent in color and texture*

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1 86 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

6. Jose Maria Casqueiro, Crato, Portalegre, Portugal.

WOOLS.

Report, — Washed wools of good quality.

7. Devoosse-Blaise, Dison, Belgium.

CASSIMERES.

Report, — Good fabrics, excellent in design and finish.

8. M. Wihl ft Co., Venders, Belgium.

CASSIMERES.

Report. — A good display in various weights, excellent in color and designs.

9. Campos Mello ft,Co., Covilhan, Portugal.

CASSIMERES.

Report. — Commended for fancy cassimeres 01' good fabrication and neat designs.

10. Padronello Woolen Fabrics Co., Amarante, Portugal.

CASSIMERES, OVERCOATINGS, AND SHAWI3.

Repoii, — Commended for a large display of excellent fabrics tastefully designed.

II. Antonio Jose Pereira da Silva e Alves, Oporto, Portugal.

SEWING SILK.

Report. — Commended for uniform twist and superior strength.

12. Franzi Brothers fu Giuseppe, Abcano Maggiore, Italy.

SILK.

Report. — A good exhibit in tram, organzine, and twist, well prepared and excellent in
general finish.

13. Eduardo Augusto Pereira, Meizanil, Oporto, Portugal.

WOOLS.

Report, — An exhibit of wools, washed and in the grease, of good quality and staple.

14. The Colony of the Cape of Qood Hope.

WOOLS.

Report, — A collection of samples, indiscriminately selected from bales for export, show>
ing excellent merino and Angora wools.

15. T. L. Davidson, Salem, Oregon, U. S.

MERINO WOOL.

Report. — Commended for fine staple, together with good strength.

16. Fernando Ibanex Palenciano, Valencia, Spain.

SILKS, BROCADE, AND DAMASK. ^

Report. — Commended for good design and workmanship of hand-made silks of old
Moorish and Oriental styles.

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GROUP IX. 187

SIGNING JUDGES OF SUPPLEMENT TO GROUP IX.

The figures annexed to the names of the Judges indicate the reports written by them
respectively.

Benj. F. Britton, I, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15.
Coleman Sellers, 16.

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GROUP X.

CLOTHING, FURS, INDIA-RUBBER GOODS, ORNA-
MENTS, AND FANCY ARTICLES.

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GROUP X.

AMERICAN.

W. H. Chandler, Lehigh UniTersity, South
Bethlehem, Pa.

Wm. O. Linthicum, New Yoric City.

Benj. F. Britton, New York Gty.

George Hewston, San Francisco, Cal.

E. N. HORSFORD, Cambridge, Mass.

JUDGES.

FOREIGN.
Ch. F. Dietz-Monnin, France.
Modest Kittary, Russia.
Edward Kanitz, Austria.
M. P. Empby, Canada.

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GROUP X.

CLOTHING, FURS, INDIA-RUBBER GOODS, ORNAMENTS, AND
FANCY ARTICLES.

{Exclusive of Leather Boots and Shoes.)

Class 250. — Ready-made clothing, knit goods and hosiery, military clothing, church
vestments, costumes, water-proof clothing, and clothing for special objects.

Class 251. — Hats, caps, gloves, mittens, etc. ; straw and palm leaf hats; bonnets, and
millinery.

Class 252. — ^Laces, embroideries, and trimmings for clothing, furniture, and carriages.

Class 254. — ^Artificial flowers, coifiures, buttons, trinmiings, pins, hooks-and-eyes, fans,
umbrellas, sun-shades, walking-canes, pipes, and small objects of dress or adornment,
exclusive of jewelry.

Toys, games, etc.

Class 255. — ^Fancy leather work, — ^pocket-books, toilet cases, traveling equipmenti^
valises, and trunks. (See also in Leather, Group XII.)

Class 256. — Furs, manufactured into clothing, robes, etc.

Class 257. — Historical collections of costumes : national costumes.

Class 288. — Flags, insignia, emblems.

CAOUTCHOUC AND GUTTA-PERCHA INDUSTRY
Class 285. — *' India-rubber*' goods and manufactures.
Class 286.— Brushes.

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GENERAL REPORT

OP THE

JUDGES OF GROUP X.

Intbrnational Exhibition, 1876.

Pkop. F. a. Walker, Chief of Bureau of Awards:
Sir, — I transmit to you the report of the Judges of Group X.

Respectfully yours,

W. H. CHANDLER.

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INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

GROUP X.

CLOTHING, FURS, INDIA-RUBBER GOODS, ORNA-
MENTS, AND FANCY ARTICLES,

RUBBER HOSE, RUBBER BELTING, AND WALRUS
HIDE BELTING.

BY E. N. HORSFORD.

The American firms exhibiting rubber fire-hose were : The New
York Belting & Packing Company, The National Rubber Com-
pany, The Gutta-Percha & Rubber Company, and The Star Rubber
Company.

Besides these, the house of H. Schrader, of St. Petersburg, Russia,
exhibited fire-hose of superior quality, but of a calibre less than the
standard recognized here, so that it was impossible to submit the
Russian hose to comparative test.

The Star Rubber Company's hose was not represented by an agent,
and the hose was not provided with the couplings necessary for
experiment.

There were, besides, several exhibitors of cotton and linen hose
of various forms of manufacture : riveted, sewed, and woven whole,
and lined with rubber to render them water-proof; but as this lining
did not materially add to their strength, they were regarded as
properly to be excluded from the class of rubber manufactures.

The experimental trials were limited to the samples submitted by
The New York Belting & Packing Company, The National Rubber
Company, and The Gutta-Percha & Rubber Company.

The hose tested was in each case four-ply, of two and a half inch
calibre, made up of successive layers of cotton duck coated with
rubber composition, constituting a tube coated and lined with rubber
composition, and the whole solidified by vulcanization.

The hose of the National Rubber Company, and that of the Gutta-
Percha Company, were made by winding the duck coated with com-

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP X, 3

position upon a mandrel, with the warp of the duck parallel to the
axis of the hose. That of the New York Belting & Packing Com-
pany was made by cutting the duck coated with uncured rubber
composition into narrow strips, running obliquely across the warp,
and then so cementing these strips and winding them upon the man-
drel as to present the warp and filling at an inclination of about 45®
to the axis of the hose. The latter arrangement increases the flexi-
bility of the hose, and diminishes correspondingly the liability to
injury by the abrupt bending to which hose is often subjected in
practical use. At the same time it provides for an increase of ca-
pacity under pressure, — an increase of diameter with a concomitant
diminution of length. With equal strength of duck such hose would
have burst at a pressure inferior to that which hose with the warp
parallel and the filling at right angles to the axis of the hose would
require. The reason is this: with increase of the diameter of the
hose under pressure the. greater is the number of units of liquid ex-
erting any given pressure, while the tenacity to be overcome in the
texture of the duck and rubber wall remains a constant quantity.
Assuming the increase in calibre at the instant of bursting to have
been J^ inch, or from 2J^ to 3, or from 100 to 125, the pressure would
have been increased relatively to the strength of a given area by the
quantity of one-fifth.

The strain on hose in practical service rarely reaches 225 pounds to
the square inch. In this quality the three exhibits subjected to trial
by hydrostatic pressure exceeded in strength any practical need.

A preliminary experiment was made with a section of the New
York Belting & Packing Company's hose of but 8 feet in length.
It was not weighed, and gave way under a pressure of 450 pounds.

The principal experiments were made with sections of 50 feet in
length, which were first weighed. That of

The New York Belting & Packing Company weighed 66^ pounds.

The Gutta-Percha & Rubber Company weighed 67^ pounds.

The National Rubber Company weighed 59 pounds.

The New York Belting & Packing Company's hose burst at 425
pounds.

The Gutta-Percha & Rubber Company's hose burst at 435 pounds.

The National Rubber Company's hose did not burst at 500 pounds,
at which pressure the couplings gave way.

The rupture of the New York Belting & Packing Company's

hose presented a peculiar section, having the shape of two V's point

to point ^--^ thus ; the lines following the warp and filling, and the

short line uniting the apices equally inclined to the direction of the

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4 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

threads of the warp and fiUing. This form of the rupture was re-
garded by experts as evidence of excellence of manufacture. Warp
and filling were of equal strength.

The rupture of the Gutta-Percha & Rubber Company's hose was
slightly irregular, but in the main across the filling, that is, along a
line parallel to the axis of the hose. This is the direction in which
rupture should take place, where the duck is wound with the warp
parallel to the axis of the hose, and where the strength of the warp
equals or but slightly exceeds that of the filling.

The diameter of the New York Belting & Packing Company's
hose was increased about half an inch, — attended with a shortening
estimated at about two per cent.

The diameter and length of the other two exhibits were not
appreciably changed.

No experiments suggested themselves which might be considered
the equivalents of actual wear in ordinary use. Actual practical use
has shown that the warp of the duck where the fibre is parallel to
the axis of the hose is subjected to greater strain in abrupt bending
than the warp and filling where the thread is obliquely arranged.
There is no opportunity for it to yield except by rupture.

As all the three exhibits showed a strength greatly exceeding the
ordinary requirements of service, and as all were put together with
skill and cured with care, it was deemed just to commend them all
alike for award.

The experiments were conducted by Mr. Gardner Sanderson, de-
tailed by Mr. John S. Albert, Chief of the Bureau of Machinery,
under the direction of the Judges of Group X.

Rubber belting was on exhibition by four American companies, viz..
The National Rubber Company, The New York Belting & Packing
Company, The Gutta-Percha & Rubber Company, The Star Rubber
Company, and also by the house of H. Schrader, of St. Petersburg,
Russia. The delay in the opening of the Russian department pre-
vented the samples of belting from coming to the attention of the
Judges in time for the portion of the experimental testing made to
determine the adhesion.

The manufacture of belting is simple. Cotton duck is overspread
with rubber composition, and the sheets of duck so coated are piled
one upon another to any desired thickness, as of two-, three-, four-, or
five-ply, then under pressure subjected to a vulcanizing heat for the
time necessary to accomplish proper curing.

The principal valuable qualities in a belt are:

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP X, 5

1st. Its adhesion to the surface of the pulley.
2d. Its strength or capacity to resist strain.
3d. Its absence of the stretching quality.
4th. Its durability.

The adhesion depends upon two qualities: ist, the smoothness of
the surface of the belting, which permits contact with the smooth
surface of the pulley ; and, 2d, a yielding but elastic surface, which,
under strain, insures a more perfect contact.

The mode of manufacture of the duck, and its incorporation into the
belting with the warp parallel to the length of the belting, insure the
product against stretching. The durability depends on the care ob-
served in the curing, and in this all the samples seemed to have been
cured with nice attention to temperature.

The apparatus arranged to test the adhesion was of extreme sim-
plicity. A pulley six inches wide and fifteen and three-fourths inches
exterior diameter was supported over free space. A strip of each
kind of six-inch belting was in turn placed upon the pulley, and held
down to the surface of the pulley by attaching to either end a weight
of fifty pounds. The pulley being fixed against rotation, weights were
added to one end of the strip of belting until the belt slipped upon
the pulley.

The Star Rubber Company's and the New York Belting & Pack-
ing Company's six-inch belting was three-ply. Each of the others
was four-ply.

The thickness of samples of belting was as follows :
Star Rubber Company's, \i of an inch.
New York Belting & Packing Company's, JJ of an inch.
National Rubber Company's, Jf of an inch.
Gutta-Percha & Rubber Company's, \^ of an inch.
The measure of the adhesion was the weight required to overcome
it. This weight was found to be, in the case of the

Gutta-Percha & Rubber Company's belting, 48^^^ pounds.
The Star Rubber Company's belting, 59^^ pounds.
The National Rubber Company's belting, 60% pounds.
New York Belting & Packing Company's belting, 70 pounds.
Taking the highest of these at 100, we have the following ratios :
New York Belting & Packing Company . . 100

National Rubber Company 86.78

Star Rubber Company 85

Gutta-Percha & Rubber Company .... 68.92
The strength of the belting was tested in a Richie's machine, under

direction of Mr. Hirst, of the superintendence of Machinery Hall,

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6 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

detailed by Mr. Albert ; the testing-machine admitting belting of a
maximum width of three inches. Three of the exhibitors had sam-
ples of this width : The National Rubber Company, The New York
Belting & Packing Company, and H. Schrader, of St. Petersburg.
Each was three-ply. The thickness of the National Rubber Company's
exhibit was ^ of an inch, while that of the New York Belting &
Packing Company was -h- The Russia belting was \\ of an inch.
The length of the fibre of the duck in the belting of the National
Rubber Company ranged from .8 to i ^ inch, and that of the New
York Belting & Packing Company from .5 to i inch. The duck
used by the National Rubber Company was of finer quality than
that in use by the New York Belting & Packing Company.

The New York Belting & Packing Company's three-inch three-
ply belting, without stretching, gave way under a strain of exactly
3000 pounds. That of the National Rubber Company gave way at
3500 pounds. The Russia belting gave way at 2750 pounds.

WALRUS BELTING.

A sample of walrus belting, from Norway, manufactured by Klemm,
Hanson, & Co., of Trondhjem, was tested under direction of Mr.
Albert, and referred to me. Its thickness was \^ of an inch. The
adhesion was determined as that of the samples of rubber belting was,
and with the same apparatus. With the flesh-side against the pulley
the belt slipped at 88 pounds. With the hair or outside against the
pulley the belt slipped at 38 pounds. Under the test in Richie's
machine a three-inch strip gave way at 4175 pounds. As the thick-
ness was more than that of the rubber belting, the strength should
be rated as about one-half of the observed result of experiment

In the judgment of the experts in the Leather Building, where
opinion was sought, it was not comparable with good leather or
rubber belting on account of its liability to stretch ; but it was well
adapted to service, on account of its porosity, for emery belting, since
its porous structure would enable it to take up and hold oil and
emery.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP X.

CAOUTCHOUC AND GUTTA-PERCHA.

BY W. H. CHANDLER.

The manufacture of these products has rapidly increased since
Charles Goodyear's discovery of vulcanization in 1839, and in the
United States especially the industry has assumed large proportions.
There were very few foreign exhibitors in this line.

RUBBER-PRODUCING PLANTS,

Of rubber-producing plants, a fine exhibit was made by A. G. Day,
of New York, as follows :

Ficus Brasiliensis, Brazil.

F. lucidus, "

F. tnacrophylla, Australia.

F. Lodrickii, "

F. Australis, "

F. elastica, East Indies.

F. rigida, "

F. xiymphsefolia, East Indies.

F. Fcligiosa, Palestine.

Euphorbia triangularis, S. Africa.

E. monstrosa, Cuba.

£. Mackaii, Java.

£. splendens, Mexico

E. punicea, "

Philodendron pertusum, or Monstera

deliciosa, Brazil.
Galipia odoratissima, Brazil.
Aralia Cookii, **

Pereskii grandiflora, Mexico.

CRUDE CAOUTCHOUC

Smythe, Earle, & Co., New York, N, Y.

This house, brokers in india-rubber and gutta-percha, made a very
interesting exhibition, including a few specimens of caoutchouc-
producing plants, a complete outfit for a rubber-gatherer in Brazil,
the milk of the rubber-tree, and a large variety of crude rubber in
the original packages, aggregating about 6000 pounds. Among the
plants were the Ficus elastica, from the East Indies, and the Siphonia
elastica, from Brazil. The Castillio elastica, from Central America,
died in transit. The seeds and milk of the rubber-tree were among
the exhibits, and the outfit for a Brazilian rubber-gatherer included
the baskets to carry provisions, the hatchet to tap the tree, the
earthen cups to catch the milk from the taps, the gourds to collect
it from the cups, the metallic pans to hold the milk, the wooden
spaddle which is dipped in the milk, and the furnace and oily palm-
nuts which are burnt therein, and by which the coagulated milk upon
the spaddle is dried and smoked. There were also specimens of the
different gums washed and sheeted in the manufactory, and a speci-

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INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

men of fine Para rubber, twenty-six years old. The following samples
of crude caoutchouc were exhibited by the same firm:

From Central and South America,

Carthagena, United States of Colombia,

pressed strip.
Panama, pressed strip.

" slab.
Nicaragua, pressed sheets.

" scrap.
Honduras, sheet.
Mexico.

Para, Brazil, coarse, original packages.

" " fine.
Ceara, " scrap.
Bahia, "
Balatta, «

Esmeralda, Equador, pressed strip.
Guayaquil, «« *« **

Buenaventura, United States of Colom
bia, pressed strip.

From East Indies,

Borneo, in case.

East India, or Java, basket.

Assam, cake.

West Coast, ball, cask.
" " tongue, cask.
«« ** niggers, bale.
" " flake.

Assam, ball.

Calcutta, gutta-percha, baskeL

From Africa.

West Coast, thimbles.

East Coast, Mozambique, ball.

«* " " on sticks.

" *' Madagascar, case.

The National Rubber Company, Providence, R. /., and the India-
RuBBER Comb Company, New York, N. K, also exhibited plants and
samples of crude caoutchouc.

BRAZIL.

Raymonde Jose Rabello and Elias Jose Nunez, Para.

These exhibitors displayed caoutchouc from the Provinces of Rio
Grande do Norte, Amazonas, and Para. This caoutchouc is a pro-
duct of the latex of the Siphonia elastica, Pers. {Hevea guyanensis).
The exportation of caoutchouc from the province of Amazonas
amounts annually to 8,800,000 pounds, nearly double the exportation
of caoutchouc from the Ficus elastica, in the East Indies. This
province also exports the "Breo de Macaranduba" {Mimusopsetata,
considered the true gutta-percha).

Commissions of the Provinces of Ceara and Rio Grande do

Norte.
These exhibited caoutchouc from the Mangabeira-tree {Hancomia
speciosa), of which the Brazilian catalogue says: "This was adjudged
among the best varieties at Vienna, and its cost is not over 50 cents
a pound." There is also exported from this province caoutchouc
from the Jatropha elastica,

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP X. g

The average annual exports of india-rubber from Brazil have been
as follows :

Valne.
1S39 to 1844 . . . 391,605 kilos. 210 : 000 looo reis.

1869 to 1874 . . . 5,582,799 " 10,320 : 000 looo

Increase in 35 years . . 5,191,194 "* 10,110:000 |ooo

Mean annual increase in qoantity 3^*9^ P^ c^i^^*

'* " *• value I4«-S9 "

This is mostly produced in the provinces of Para and Amazonas^
where the Siphonia elastica abounds from the seaboard to a distance
of 3300 kilometres inland. The above statistics are from the volume
on Brazil, published by the Brazilian Government. They are at vari-
ance with Smythe, Earle, & Co.'s statistics.

The total exports from Para, Brazil, have been as follows:

1873 14,886,000 lbs.

1874 ........ 14,181,000 «

1875 15.369.939 "

1876 14,300,602 <«

MEXICO,

An exhibit of caoutchouc was made by the State Grovernment of
Campeche. The india-ruMier-tree from which the caoutchouc is
extracted is the Castilloa €lastica of the Artocarpae family, described
by Vicente Cervantes. It grows in Chiapas, Campeche, and other
localities near the Gulf of Mexico, to the height of 50 to 65 feet, and
can be largely propagated along the low, wet shores of the Gulf
There are more than ten species of the Ficus genus and some other
plants which produce caoutchouc. The export of india-rubber in
1873 amounted to ^193,052.58 in value.

Durango caoutchouc is the product of a herbaceous plant, belong-
ing to the Synancherae family, growing in the state of Durango. Like
the genuine caoutchouc, it hs^rdens with sulphur, and takes a beautiful
polish. It was brought to the city of Mexico by Bartolome Bal-
lesteros, and studied by Fernando Altimarano.

VICTORIA, AUSTRAUA.

Australian rubber and rubber-stamps were exhibited by the Com-
missioners for Victoria.

NETHERLANDS' EAST INDIAN COLONIES.

The government exhibited india-rubber from Palembang and other
districts :

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INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

Gutta-percha, balam, from Palembang.
Gutta-percha, white, from Palembang.
Gutta-percha, from Bandjermassin, Borneo.
Gutta-percha, from Boeloengan.
Gutta-gitang, from Palembang.
Gutta-soesoe, from Macassar (Celebes).
Guttasoesoe, from Bandjermassin, Borneo.

TRINIDAD.

Galata gum, or Trinidad gutta-percha, two demijohns of sap, and
six cakes, were exhibited by the Government

VENEZUELA.

Gutta-percha from the Mimusops globosa^ Griseb., was shown from
the state of Maturin.

UNITED STATES.

G. W. Mowbray, North Adams, Mass.

An exhibit of gutta-percha, crude, also washed and ground, and
wire insulated by the same, for blasting purposes.

The direct imports to New York, stated in United States currency,
at four months, are said by Smythe, Earle, & Co.'s circular to be as
follows :

Para. Cbmtral AmoucAif Gradss.

Pounds. Ratet. Fine Para. Pounds.

Rates.
Guayaquil Strip.

1872 5,183,000 68 @ 87 ;i cents. 6,302,000 5i;i@56cenU.

1873 5J75.000 61 " 80 «* 5»994»ooo 4^ " 60 "

1874 7»955»«» 75 " S^}i " 4.926,000 42 " 60 "
187s 5»oi4.ooo 58 " 67^ " Z,iy!fOcx> 38 «* 47>i"
1876 4,256,000 siyi** 64 " 4,067,000 43 « 53 "

E. India, btc. Total.

Pounds. Pounds.

378,000 11,863,000

361,000 12,130,000

267,000 13,148,000

222,000 8,973,000

261,000 8,584,000

Direct imports to New York
Direct imports to Boston, E. I. grades
Indirect imports from England to New
York and Boston ....

1874.
13,148,000 lbs.
825,000 "

504,000 "

1875.
8,975,000 lbs.
330,000 «

525,000 «

1876.
8,584,000 lbs.
251,000 «*

1,463,000 "

Exports to England •
Add stock, January i .

14477,000 «
550,000 "

13,927,000 "
1,175,000 "

9.830,000
650,000

9,180,000
1,860,000

«
«

10,298,000
825,000

9,473,000
940,000

Less stock at dose of year .

15,102,000 "
1,860,000 "

11,040,000
940,000

10,413,000
510,000

Consumption in United States

13,242,000
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10,100,000

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP X. n

INDIA-RUBBER MACHINERY,
W. E. Kelly, New Brunswick, N, %

Machinery for manufacturing india-rubber, consisting of (i) cor-
rugated rolls, with which the crude rubber is washed with cold
water ; (2) smooth chilled rolls for mixing the washed rubber, sulphur,
and other chemicals ; one of these rolls revolves three times as fast
as the other; both rolls are heated internally by steam; (3) steam-
heated engraved rolls for impressing the outsides of shoes ; (4) three
high calender rolls, heated by steam, for coating cloth with rubber, for
the insides of shoes. This machinery was operated by the National
Rubber Company, whose employees also finished the shoes and vul-
canized them in a small steam-heated oven.

RUBBER MANUFACTURES.

Most of the rubber is consumed in the manufacture of rubber
shoes, belting, hose, and packing ; in addition to these uses there is a
considerable industry in chirurgical instruments, household articles
and clothing.

RUBBER HOSE, BELTING, AND PACKING,

The report on rubber hose, belting, and packing has been prepared
by Professor E. N. Horsford, and precedes this report. The exhibit-
ors of these articles were ':

The New York Belting and Packing Company, New York, N. Y.

The Gutta-Percha and Rubber Manufacturing Company, New York, N. Y.

National Rubber Company, Providence, R. I.

The Eureka Fire Hose Company, New York, N. Y.

Wannalanset Manufacturing Company, Boston, Mass.

The Blake Hose Company, New York, N. Y.

The Columbia Car-Spring Company, New York, N. Y.

National Car-Spring Company, New York, N. Y.

Star Rubber Company, Trenton, N. J.

Russian-American Rubber Company, St. Petersburg, Russia.

BOOTS AND SHOES,

National Rubber Company, Providence, R. I,

This company consumed 1,250,000 pounds of rubber in 1876.
Their production from July, 1875, to July, 1876, was ^2,500,000, of
which about ^1400,000 was for boots and shoes, and the remainder
for packing, belting, hose, druggists* articles, clothing, etc. They
employ 900 hands. This company is probably the largest manu-

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12 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

facturer in this country, manufacturing a large variety of goods.
They make over 300 distinct varieties of shoes. Among those
deserving special mention is the Monitor and snow-excluding gaiter.

The New Brunswick Rubber Company, New Brunswick, N. y.
A general assortment of neat, well-made shoes.

Moulded Heel Stiffening Company, Lynn, Mass,

A stiffener of hard rubber, sold for 3 cents per pair, of which
25,000,000 pairs have been sold since 1870.

Chadeayne & Christian, Yonkers, N. Y.
Ventilated rubber boots.

Russian-American India-Rubber Company, St Petersburg, Russia,

This company was founded in i860. It employs 12 steam-engines
of 700 horse-power and 1378 men and women. Yearly value of goods
produced, 3,000,000 roubles. The exhibit included articles of dress,
boots, shoes, belts, straps, chirurgical, traveling, and household arti-
cles of india-rubber, hose, and packing, a large variety of goods of
excellent quality, billiard strips and telegraph insulated wire. Of
boots and shoes it exhibited a good variety, with a novelty of fur-
lined rubber shoes and galoshes.

CLOTHING.

The Gossamer Rubber Clothing Company, Boston, Mass.

Water-proof cloaks, hats, leggings, and umbrellas, made from
Scotch gingham, covered with a thin coating of rubber, sun-cured, at
low prices; weight, 12 to 16 ounces. These materials afford light
garments at small cost, though they probably have not the same
durability as the English mackintosh.

The National Rubber Company, Providence, R, 7.

A large variety of clothing, including " lustre'' clothing, which is
the cheapest variety; "dull finish" clothing, in all fabrics from silk
to twill; reversible coats, in silk and silesia; and "flocked" clothing,
covered with the shearings of broadcloth.

The Russian-American Rubber Company, St, Petersburg, Russia.

Clothing in some variety. Especially commendable was a coach-
man's coat of cotton check covered with rubber of a dead-white color,
not equaled by any other manufacturer.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP X. ij

Simon May & Co., Nottingham, England.

A large variety of elastic gorings, gussetings, and boot welts.
Especially fine were those of worsted back and silk facing.

John C. McGee, Belfast, Ireland,

Mackintosh coats, with silk lining and paramatta outside; also
reversible coats of silk and rubber, made by twelve applications of
a solution of caoutchouc. These coats were superior to all others
on exhibition.

Bally & Schmitter, Aarau, Switzerland.

Elastic boot webs of cotton, silk, and linen. The firm employs
450 hands and 140 looms.

ScHNECK & KoHNBERGER, Vienna, Austria.
Cotton gorings for shoes, at low prices.

LuciEN Fremaye & Co., Paris, France.
Elastic tissues.

Nashawannuck Manufacturing Company, Easthampton, Mass.
Elastic suspenders of good quality.

American Suspender Company, Waterbury, Conn.,
National Suspender Company, Nezv York, N, Y,

Similar exhibits to the preceding.

The Easthampton Rubber Thread Company, Easthampton, Mass.

Rubber thread for use in gorings and webs. This is now cured by
water, but formerly by steam, which produced a less uniform result.

The Glendale Elastic Fabric Company, Easthampton, Mass,

This manufactory started in i860, but was organized as a stock
company in 1867. It employs 200 hands, and in 1876 produced
8oo,odo yards of cord and braids, 40,000 gross yards of fine loom
webs for gaiters and pocket-books, and 10,000 gross yards of elastic
belt webs. Total value, ^00,000.

HOUSEHOLD GOODS.

The Davidson Rubber Company, Boston, Mass.

Bath-tubs, air-pillows, and beds of good design and fine finish.
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14 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

The National Rubber Company, Providence, R. L

Similar exhibits, with specialties of nursery sheeting, "flocked"
piano-forte cover, inlaid checker-board, door-mats, and curry-combs.

W. B. S. Taylor, New York, N. Y.

Patent gas tubing, which is, without doubt, the best article of the
kind in the market; it consists of a spiral wire core, covered with
a coating of glue and glycerin, placed between two layers of rubber,
and finished with a flocked or woven surface. All tubing used for
conveying gas sooner or later becomes imbued with the strong smell of
the gas, but this tubing is the most free from this difficulty, and, pro-
viding the gas is turned off" at the chandelier only, so that the gas is
not held in the tube, will remain quite free from odor.

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL GOODS,

The Davidson Rubber Company, Boston, Mass.

This company exhibited very largely in these branches, their goods
having a fineness and beauty of finish not equaled by any other ex-
hibitor. Among their specialties were seamless tubes, bandage gum
for dentists, sun-cured sponge bags, rubber-lined, and water bags.

The National Rubber Company, Providence, R, I.
Goods in this line, of good variety and quality.

The following Parisian firms exhibited chirurgical instruments
made of rubber : Jean Pierre Benas, Rondeau Bros., Vergne & Chose
Bros.

MISCELLANEOUS ARTICLES,

Crane & Co., Newark, N. %
Soft-rubber bits for tender-mouthed horses.

HARD-RUBBER MANUFACTURES.

The India-Rubber Comb Company, New York, N. Y.

A very fine exhibit of goods, of great variety and beauty of finish,
including medical and household articles, photographic and tele-
graphic utensils, ornamental articles, combs, etc. Deserving special
mention were nine-inch tenpin balls, weighing about ten pounds each,
calender rolls for paper manufacturers, and steel rolls with coating of
hard rubber, five-eighths inch thick. These are not affected by acids,

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP X. 15

and press the paper more evenly and thoroughly than those of metal,
thus saving time in drying. Tube and sheet rubber of large size and
fine finish, and some medallions of intricate design and fine work-
manship, made by a new process, were also commendable.

G. Magnus & Co., Berlin, Prussia.

Hard-rubber billiard balls of good workmanship. These balls
are sold for about one-half the price of ivory balls, but do not com-
pete successfully with the latter. They take the force of the cue well,
but do not rebound with accuracy from the cushions or from each
other. Probably the metallic oxides introduced in the rubber are
unevenly distributed, so that the centre of gravity does not coincide
with the centre of the ball.

Andrew Albright, Newark, N. y.
Hard-rubber-coated harness.

J. Dickson & Co., Philadelphia, Pa.

A patent process for engravings from hard-rubber blocks, which are
cheaper and more durable than wood ; 100,000 impressions have been
taken from one block. The method of production is as follows:
lithographic stone is covered with asphaltuni, engraved, and treated
with nitric acid. The mixture of rubber and sulphur is then pressed
upon the stone, subjected to a vulcanizing temperature, and sub-
sequently finished with a graver. It is said to be one-tenth the price
of wood-cuts for fine work, one-half the, price for coarse work, and
four times as durable.

The Russian-American Rubber Company, St. Petersburg, Russia.

A cylinder cover of hard rubber outside and soft-rubber lining, of
excellent make.

Louis von Tuxen, Stockholm, Sweden.

This was an exhibit of patent leather manufactured from new and
old leather, which is ground and then condensed by chemicals, and
used for tarpaulins, sun-tents, floor-mats, wall-covering, machine-
belts, gas- and water-pipes, machine-packing, etc. The raw materials
are leather refuse, india-rubber, and chemicals. The india-rubber is
dissolved in turpentine, benzine, or bisulphide of carbon. The manu-
factory was established in 1865, and employs 14 hands and a 4 horse-
power engine.

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INTERNATIOISfAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

TELEGRAPH WIRE.

Austin G. Day exhibited wire insulated with a patented mixture
of caoutchouc, sulphur, oils, bituminous matters, and metallic oxides,
of excellent insulating properties, durability, and very low cost. The
article is termed kerite.

RUBBER MANUFACTURERS IN THE UNITED STATES.

The following list of manufacturers of caoutchouc in the United
States has been compiled from various sources, and is believed to be
quite complete. It does not include the manufacturers of rubber
jewelry or dentists* goods :

iEtna Rubber Co.

Boston, Mass. ,

Clothing.

Akron Rubber Co. .

Akron, Ohio

Packing, belting, and hose.

American Hard Rubber Co.

Blake Hose Co. . . .

Boston, Mass. .

Hose.

Boston Belting Co. . . .

Boston, Mass. .

Packing, belting, hose, etc.

Boston Car-Spring Co.

Boston, Mass. .

Packing and car-springs.

Boston Rubber Shoe Co. .

Maiden, Mass. .

Shoes.

L. Candee & Co.

New Haven, Conn. ,

Shoes.

C. M. Clapp & Co. .

Boston, Mass. .

Clothing.

Cleveland Rubber Co.

Cleveland, Ohio

Packing and car-springs.

Columbia Car- Spring Co. .

New York

Car springs.

The Combination Rubber Co. .

New York .

Packing and hose.

Davidson Rubber Co.

Charlestown, Mass. ,

Bands and rings and surgical
goods.

A. G. Day & Bro. .

Seymour, Conn.

Pencils.

C. B. Dickenson

Brooklyn, N. Y.

Bands and rings and surgical
goods.

Eugene Doherty.

Eagle Rubber Co. . . .

Boston, Mass. .

Wringer rolls.

East Hampton Thread Co. .

East Hampton, Mass.

Rubber thread.

A. C. Eddy & Studley

Providence, R, I,

Syringes.

Elastic Fabric Co. . . .

Boston, Mass. ,

Elastic goods, belting, and
hose.

Eureka Fire Hose Co.

New York.

Hose.

E. Faber & Co

New York.

Elastic bands and rings.

Glendale Elastic Fabric Co.

Fast Hampton, Mass.

Elastic fabrics.

B. F. Goodrich & Co.

Goodyear I. R. Glove Co. .

Naugatuck, Conn.

Clothing and gloves.

Goodyear Metallic Rubber Shoe

Naugatuck, Conn.

Shoes.

Goodyear Rubber Co.

Middletown, Conn. .

Shoes.

Gossamer Rubber Clothing Co. .

Boston, Mass. .

Clothing.

H. A. Hall & Co. .

Boston, Mass.

Hamilton Rubber Co.

Trenton, N. J. .

Packing and hose.

Hayward Rubber Co.

Colchester, Conn.

Shoes.

p. F. Heath . . . .

Newark, N.J. .
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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP X.

D. Hodgman & Co. .

F. Holton .

India-Rubber Comb Co.

L. Joy & Co. .

Keystone Rubber Co.

Lambertville Rubber Co.

Long Island Rubber Co.

Marionville Rubber Co.

Mercer Rubljer Co. .

Meyer Rubber Co.

Morrisville Rubber Co.

Mystic Rubber Co. .

Nashawannock Manufact'ing Co.

National Car-Spring Co.

National Rubber Co. .

Newark Rubber Co. .

New Brunswick Rubber Co.

New England Car-Spring Co. .

New Jersey Car- Spring Co.

New Jersey Rubber Co.

New York Belting and Packing
Co

New York Gutta-Percha and
Rubber Manufacturing Co. .

New York Rubber Co.

Novelty Rubber Co. .

C. Roberts ....

Rubber Qothing Co. .

Rubber-Coated Harness Trim-
ming Co

Rubber Comb and Jewelry Co. .
Rubber Step Manufacturing Co.
Seamless Rubber Co.
Star Rubber Co.
Stewart Rubber Co.
Tyer Rubber Co.
Union Rubber Co.
Vulcanite Jewelry Co.
Wannalauset Manufacturing Co.
Ward Bros. Rubber Co.
Whitehead Bros.
Woonsocket Rubber Co. .

New York
Brooklyn, N. Y.
College Point, L. I. .
Newark, N. J. .
Williamsport, Pa
Lambertville, N. J. .
Brooklyn, N. Y.

Trenton, N. J. .
New Brunswick, N. J.
Morrisville, N. J.
Mystic, Conn. .
East Hampton, Mass.
New York .
Bristol, R. I. .
Newark, N. J.
New Brunswick, N. J.
New York
Jersey City, N. J.
New Brunswick, N. J.

New York

New York .
New York

New Brunswick, N. J.
Newark, N. J. .
New York .

Newark, N. J. .

Bloomingdale, N. J. .
Boston, Mass. .
Naugatuck, Conn.
Trenton, N. J. .
Rochester, N. Y.
Andover, Mass. .
Harlem, N. Y. .
New York .
Boston, Mass. .

Trenton, N. J. .
Woonsocket, R. I,

Clothing.

Surgical goods.

Hard-rubber combs, etc.

Clothing.

Shoes.

Springs, packing, belting, etc.

Shoes.

Springs, packing, and hose.

Shoes.

Springs, packing, and hose.

Clothing.

Elastic fabrics.

Car-springs.

All kinds of soft-rubber goods.

Shoes.

Springs, packing, and hose.

Shoes.

Packing, belting, hose, etc.

Belting, packing, and hose.
Toys, belting, and hose. ,

Hard-rubber canes, buttons, etc.
Elastic bands and rings.
Rubber clothing.

Rubber-coated harness trim-
mings.
Rubber combs and jewelry
Rubber steps.
Druggists* articles.
Packing and hose.
Shoes.

Elastic fabrics.
Clothing.
Jewelry.
Hose.

Packing and hose.
Shoes.

The value of rubber goods manufactured annually in the United
States is estimated at ^26,000,000.

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1 8 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876

HATS AND CAPS.

BY MODEST KITTARY.

Different climates, different seasons, different ages, and different
tastes determine the varieties of shapes, material, and workmanship
used in the manufacture of these goods. These varieties were well
represented at the International Exhibition in Philadelphia in 1 876,
and specially in the American department, which had the largest
number of exhibitors, each having a considerable number of articles
on exhibition. The total number of American exhibitors was fifteen,
of whom seven were from Philadelphia, four from New York, two
from Newark, one from St. Louis, and one from South Norwalk. It
is to be regretted that these elegant collections were not accompanied
with information on which the history of this industry in the United
States could be based. While all the foreign exhibitors sent detailed
descriptions stating the time their establishments had been in opera-
tion, giving the number of workmen employed, the yearly production,
etc., the Official Catalogue of the American department has nothing
of the kind, and the applications made by the exhibitors for exami-
nation did not give this information.

Various kinds of hats, silk or felt, could be subjected to a technical
examination as well as any other article of manufacture. Such an
examination was proposed to the Judges of Group X. by the writer;
he proposed to determine accurately the weight, and, by pulling the
hat, its strength ; this, however, was not accepted by the Judges, who
feared to make the examinations too difficult and complicated. It
was, therefore, decided to follow the course pursued at previous Inter-
national Exhibitions, leaving the mode of examination to the Judges
individually. But this fails to give manufacturers those useful hints
which would call their attention to points important for further im-
provements. The American manufacturers have reached the height
of European manufacture, they are aiming to go further, and therefore
such scientific examinations would be of great importance to them.
The progress of this industry has been established by the fact that
out of fifteen exhibitors twelve were recommended by the Judges for
awards.

UNITED STATES.

E. Morris & Co., Pluladelphia, Pa,
Their establishment was founded in 1846. They exhibited silk
hats specially, — English and American styles ; the first weighing 6

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP X. ig

ounces, the latter 3^ to 4^ ounces. Such a light weight was not
exhibited by any other firm either from the United States or any
other country. Their hats made on cork and on net with shellac
are very light and porous, and therefore ventilate well.

John B. Stetson & Co., Philadelphia, Pa.

Their establishment was founded in 1864; they manufacture a high
quality of felt hats, soft and stiff. Their exhibit was interesting, as
showing the articles used in their manufacture, — downs, rabbits of
six kinds, four kinds of hare, musk-rats, and beavers. The rabbits
used are mostly French, some blue Belgian; hares from Russia,
Turkey, and Saxony. Musk-rats and beavers are silver-colored and
brown. The prices of these hats are moderate, up to ^38 per dozen.

Haverhill Hat Company, Haverhill, Mass,

A large collection of felt hats made of merino wool, of very good
quality and cheap, from $j to ^15 per dozen.

DuNLAP & Co., New York, N. Y.

A large variety of gentlemen's and ladies* silk, felt, and straw hats.
They employ 170 hands, and manufacture ^00,000 worth per year.

J. S. Bancroft & Co., New York, N Y.

Light summer hats; their bamboo hats attracted attention on
account of their quality and good shape.

Schuyler, Hartey, & Graham, New York, N Y
The best hats, caps, felt hats for masons, etc.

The following exhibitors were also commended by the Judges for
the high quality of their manufacture : Yates, Warton, & Co., Newark,
N. y,, T. H. Amidon's Son, New York, N. Y, Alden Solmans, South
Nonvalk, Conn,, J. H. Fenton & Brother, Philadelphia, Pa,, Blay-
LOCK & Co., Philadelphia, Pa,, and James Schiller & Co., St. Louis,
Mo.

The Judges also examined the wooden blocks and other tools used
in the manufacture of hats exhibited by two firms : Pierson & Her-
man, Newark, N. y,, and Christian 'Hoii^EiiBERGEK, Philadelphia, Pa.
Both parties were found worthy of an award, their products being
equally good and complete. Mr. Nonnenberger has made an im-
provement in the construction of an apparatus to stretch the crown.

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20 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

The Stretching has been done heretofore with a wooden screw, which
' increased the size in one direction, leaving the other without change.
Mr. Nonnenberger's apparatus increases the size of hats in two direc-
tions at the same time (lengthwise and crosswise). These two col-
lections of blocks and tools used in the hat manufactory show distinctly
the progress made in the United States. None of the other countries
exhibited anything in this line. The American manufacturers have
not yet succeeded in stopping the import of fine hats from England.
Dunlap & Co., of New York, being heavy manufacturers, are at the
same time agents for Lincoln, Bennett, & Co., of London; and
Blaylock & Co., of Philadelphia, are agents for Ormond Dash, of
Brighton.

ENGLAND.

The Judges recommended Lincoln, Bennett, & Co., who had a
large variety of silk, opera, felt, down, and straw hats of very high
quality, but did not present any new inventions. By mistake the
English Catalogue states that this firm received a medal at the Ex-
hibition of 185 1, in London, the firm having been established later.
This information was given by the third English exhibitor, — Tress
& Co. They were awarded medals in London in 1852 and 1861, and
in Paris in 1855 and 1867. They exhibited, beside a large collection
of silk and felt hats of general character, an interesting collection of
ladies* and gentlemen's Indian sun hats. These Indian hats have the
shape of a helmet, have a complete ventilation, and have proved to be
very practical ; they are in use not only in East India, but also in
the United States ; are considered a good protection from sunstroke ;
are made of felt, are stiff, and have a good shape. The sun or tropical
hats are of soft felt, with wide brims, with openings for ventilation,
thin and light, and always double, — that is, one hat inside of another.
In very hot weather both hats are put on ; in cooler weather the
second is left off; the air inclosed between the two forms the pro-
tection from the heat of the tropical sun's rays. The collection of
Tress & Co. justly received full attention from the Judges.

RUSSIA.

From Russia were eight exhibitors of hats, caps, military caps, and
helmets. Russia is supplied by home production, and only a few hats
are imported from Paris for admirers of French manufacture.

The following exhibitors were found worthy an award : W. TcHis-

TiAKOF, firm TcHOURKiN, St. Petersburg, founded eighty years ago,

at present one of the largest establishments in Russia; who manufac

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP X. 2 1

tures hats of all kinds, silk, opera, felt, stiff, and soft, of good quality
and at moderate prices. He suits the requirement of the majority.

Leon Wilken, firm Vandrague, Moscow, established in 1838. In
quantity this house is equal to the first, and makes the same kinds^
but of higher quality and prices. They were approved by the Judges
for good workmanship and material.

Theod. Weigt, Warsaw, I. Popp, Riga, and Ephime Nazarof, St,

Petersburg,

These exhibitors showed excellent workmanship on hats, and the
last on " horse-guards' " hfelmets.

Russia does not present anything new and improved in this in-
dustry; it keeps on the same level with other countries of good
manufacture, meets the requirements, and is -able to keep foreign
manufactures away from the home market.

AUSTRIA.

From Austria-Hungary were three exhibitors of hats; they were
all found worthy of award. Data given in the Catalogue show that
Austria supplies the home demand, and exports to Germany, Holland,
Denmark, and America. The export to America seems to be doubt-
ful, as no agents are named.

T. Shrivan & Son, Vienna, and Peter Habig & Co., Vienna,

Hats of usual shape, of excellent workmanship. The first was
established in 1848, and exhibited military hats with gold galloons and
feather trimmings.

J. HiJCKELS & Son, Neutitscheim,

Soft and stiff down felt hats, of high quality ; their soft, long-haired
hats, imitating the beaver fur, were remarkable; some are dark green,
blue, and of other colors. These hats are heavier than others, and
are used in cold weather.

SWEDEN.

Sweden had no hat exhibit, except two caps and one helmet, ex-
hibited by Mr. J. A. Ek, on three figures displaying officers' uniforms.

ITALY.

Outside of a large and fine collection of straw hats, which are a
specialty of Italian manufacture, Italy exhibited a variety of silk hats
with crowns of muslin and cork, opera hats of silk and merino, stiff

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22 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

and soft felt hats. Nothing was new in these collections, but the
excellence of workmanship and material deserved the approval of
the Judges. There were only two exhibitors, Gabriel Rumieri, of
Naples, and Cesare la Farina, of Palermo.

SPAIN.

Spain had seven exhibitors. They exhibited hats of general styles :
silk hats, folding operas, down felt hats, stiff and soft. One exhibitor
showed hats of natural color, and also colored Manila hats.

Mateo de Harna, Zamora,

His shop was established in' 1856, and now exports to Portugal.
The qualities were good and prices moderate. Special attention is
to be called to the extent of this establishment; 1000 workmen are
employed, as stated by the Commissioner. This number of work-
men is large; if correct, this establishment is the largest in the
world. The establishment of Mateo de Harna has a school for the
elementary education of the workmen's children

Gregorio Sartoc, Seville,
Very good and light felt hats.

Francisco Villasante, Madrid.
Good taste and low prices.

Juan M. de Rojas, Pangasinan^ Philippine Islands,

An interesting collection of Manila hats; they were light and fine,
of white, brown, and black colors; the black color being artificial.
Price, ^10.

PORTUGAL.

From Portugal were five exhibitors, whose collections attracted the
attention of the Judges.

Widow d*A. Roxo, Lisbon.

This establishment was founded in 1851; it employs 400 hands;
manufactures all kinds of hats, — silk hats with muslin and with cork
crowns, opera hats, stiff and soft felt hats, military hats with gold
galloons. Most remarkable were the felt hats with long hair, imita-
tion of beaver and other colors, blue, green, gray, etc. They were of
the same kind as shown in the Austrian department by Huckels & Son,
of Neutitscheim. It is remarkable that in Austria these hats are

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP X. 23

worn in cold weather to keep the head warm, while in Portugal they
are worn to prevent the passage of sun-rays in summer-time.

Maia & SiLVA, Oporto,

The same kind of hats ; also those with long hair of beaver and
other colors. Establishment founded in 1854; employs 350 hands;
has steam-engine of 35 horse-power. The yearly production amounts
to ^200,000.

Costa Braga & Son, Oporto,

Hats of general kind, silk and felt of good quality. Establishment
founded in 1866; employs 200 hands ; has a 15 horse-power engine;
yearly production ^120,000. Their felt hats are remarkable for fine-
ness and light weight.

Santos & Bro., Ovar,

A similar exhibit of all kinds of hats, of very good quality. Estab-
lished in 1872. Employs 100 hands, and has 30 horse-power.

CusTADio Jose Rodrigues Bahia, Brago,

This establishment is of great importance to the country. The
Commissioner from Portugal states that Portugal has a large hat-
industry. It supplies the home demand, and exports to Africa and
Brazil ; to some extent hats are imported from Spain.

BRAZIL.

Brazil showed quite an interest in the hat exhibit ; eight firms sent
their collections, of which the following attracted the attention of the
Judges :

Imperial Fluminense Agricultural Institute, Rio de Janeiro.

This Government establishment exhibited felt and bamboo hats
of excellent workmanship. The latter are very expensive; they are
valued at $60 and ^70 apiece. If these goods find purchasers, it
will be due to the benevolent object of the Institute.

JoAQUiM Alvaro d'Armado & Co., Rio de yaneiro.

Silk, felt, and bamboo hats of good workmanship, having variety in
shapes, and moderate prices.

Bierrenbach & Bros., Campinac, St, Paulo,

Silk and felt hats, soft and stiff. Their soft felt hats excelled all
the soft hats in the Exhibition in fineness and light weight

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24 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

Fernando Braga and Francisco Fischer, Rio de yaneiro.
Good shapes, excellent workmanship.

ARGENTINE REPUBLIC.
The Argentine Republic had two exhibitors.

BuFFETi & Maya, Buenos Ayres,
A high quality of silk and felt hats.

Serafin a. Carneiro, Buenos Ayres,

Felt hats made of vicuna downs, remarkable on account of the
material, light weight, fineness, and softness.

japan.
Japan had one representative.

Wakamatsa, Omi,

Hats made of leaves and stalks of Victoria Chinensis. This material
has been in use for some time in the manufacture of nice, light, and
strong cases, boxes, etc. Lately this new application of the Victoria
Chinensis has taken place. It is used in the manufacture of hats
of European shapes; also bamboo hats; they are stiff, durable, and
porous.

We close the general report on the collections of gentlemen's
head-furnishing goods with regret that neither Germany nor France
took part in this department of the Exhibition. The first has an
established reputation for the moderate price and good quality of
hats used by the middle classes; while the second is known for
its elegance in style and high prices for hats used by the rich and
aristocratic classes,

CORSETS.

BY MODEST KITTARY.

It is neither just nor right to consider corsets as an article of fancy
or fashion only. The peculiarity of the form of woman has, with the
civilization of the human race, made the corset a necessity; the cor-
set gives comfort and shape to the dress of ladies, and does also other
quite important services, being often a hygienic and surgical appa-
ratus. This is the point of view the Judges of Group X. have taken.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP X. 25

UNITED STATES.

The United States took the largest interest in this department
They had fourteen exhibitors, each of them having some pecuhar
features. The appearance of the American corsets did not quite
meet the views of the European ladies, especially on account of
the long waists; they could but acknowledge the usefulness and
importance of improvements shown by these exhibitors.

The Boston Comfort Corset Company, Boston, Mass,

Corsets without whalebones, these being replaced by strong cords.
This change permits an easy washing of the corset. They are cheap,
do not press, and are free from disadvantages due to broken or loose
whalebones in corsets, after they have been worn for a length of time.
These corsets are mostly large, nearly closed ; they open on the side,
and have small sleeves.

The Worcester Corset Company, Worcester^ Mass,
A large collection of corsets of various prices and shapes. Most
remarkable is their patented arrangement of sewing the front parts
of corsets, which contain the breasts. Generally these parts of
the front are made, for each side, of two pieces of cloth. Between
them are placed whalebones, or parts sewed through ; they press the
breast in the middle. The Worcester Corset Company use three
pieces, and relieve hereby the nipple from pressure. These corsets
have, outside of the usual back-lacing, a side-lacing. This permits a
regulation of the waist of the corset. Nearly all their corsets have
suspenders for skirts, hoop-petticoat, etc. Some have shoulder-
braces, entirely unknown in Europe. They are due to peculiarities
in form and to the narrowness of the pelvis. Two corsets deserve to
be mentioned especially ; one which is useful for pregnant persons,
as well as for those who have falling of the womb ; and the second a
universal corset, which can be made to fit most any form of the body
by adjustment of shoulder-straps, belt, and lacing; this being very
useful for pregnant women. The corsets of the Worcester Company
are not dear ; they range from fj up per dozen.

The United States Corset Company, New York, N. Y,
Woven corsets with back-lacing, remarkable ♦for their cheapness,
from J4 per dozen up.

M. CoHN & Co., New York, N. Y.
Corsets of cheapness and good quality.

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26 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

Brewster Bros. & Co., Birmingham^ Conn,

A finer quality of corsets, which resemble those of Paris. They
are side-laced, with shoulder-brace, ring suspenders for skirts, etc.,
peculiarities proper to American corsets. An open corset, made
only of stiff parts, where the whalebones are placed without cloth ;
this is considered very good for summer-time.

Mrs. Harriet M. Chapman, Philadelphia, Pa,

This firm exhibited buff corsets; they are high, and cover the
breasts ; the front is made in the shape of two buffs (pad), to receive
the breasts. These corsets are very useful to persons who have sore
breasts, and give at the same time a nice appearance to those who
have small-developed breasts.

George Frost & Co., Boston, Mass.

Most remarkable is the corset of this firm, called " Emancipation
corset," recommended for young women. The corset reaches only
the breasts, relieves them from any pressure, and does not prevent
their free development.

PAI.MER & Williams, Boston, Mass,

Corsets with double busk. In addition to the two busks generally
applied, a third wide one is placed under them. In case one of the
two break, the breasts cannot be hurt, and it is not required to repair
the corset at once.

Mme. Demorest, New York, N, K

In addition to a large display of ladies' dress patterns, this exhibit
comprised a large collection of corsets, ladies' shoulder-braces, skirt
and stocking suspenders. These suspenders, also made independent
of the corsets, are considered as very useful.

FRANCE.

FoREY & Oppenheim, Paris.

Corsets, especially made for the Exhibition, with silk, silver, and
gold embroidery ; very tasteful work, for which the firm was found
worthy of an award.

P. Lenoir, Paris.

Excellent corsets. They have an interesting peculiarity, having
the busk and bones substituted by rubber.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP X. 27

GERMANY.

Cross & Co., Baden,

G. M. Ottenheimer & Son, Stuttgard.

These corsets do not show anything new, but are considered
worthy of an award for good workmanship, shape, and cheapness.

SPAIN.

J. Cardona & Baldrich, Barcelona.

In their large exhibit the woven corsets were equal to the American
in price and quality. More interesting was their exhibit of open cor-
sets, cheaper, light, and well adapted to the climate in Spain. Messrs.
Cardona & Baldrich also exhibited some hygienic and surgical corsets
for deformed backs and breasts.

The other countries had no exhibitors in the corset department

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REPORTS ON AWARDS.

GROUP X.

I. Wanamaker & Brown, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

CIVIL AND MILITARY CLOTHING.
Report, — Commended for fair skill in cut and workmanship, and as meritorious in price.

2. John Wanamaker & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

CIVIL AND MILITARY CLOTHING.

Report, — Commended for fair skill in cut and workmanship, and as meritorious in price.

3. H. P. Cooper, New York, N. Y., U. S.

CLOTHING FOR GENTLEMEN.

Report. — Commended for skill in cut and workmanship, and as well adapted to the
purpose intended.

4. E. O. Thompson, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

CLOTHING.

Report, — ^This is an exhibit of fancy clothing with United States gold and silver coin for
buttons. The chief merit consists of skill in cut and careful workmanship.

5. Devlin & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

CIVIL AND MILITARY CLOTHING.

Report. — Commended for skill in cut, good quality and durability of the workmanship,
and good taste in trimming.

6. Sweet, Orr, & Co., Wappinger's Falls, N. Y., U. S.

PANTALOONS, JACKirrS, AND OVERALLS.

Report. — All the goods exhibited by this house are Avell cut, very strongly made, and sold
at very low prices, and are in every way adapted to the wants of the working class.

7. Pettingell & Sawyer, East Cambridge, Mass., U. S.

WATER-PROOF OIL-CLOTH CLOTHES AND WATER-PROOF HATS.

Report, — ^The products consist of oil-cloth clothing, yellow, gray, and black, including

hats, jackets, and overcoats, for yachtmen and car-drivers ; jackets, pants, and overalls, for

oystermen, fishermen, and butchers; miners* and Lincoln hats; souwesters; horse and

wagon covers. The jackets and overcoats are of fine fabric, double thickness, the collars

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30 J^EPOJiTS ON AWARDS,

faced with flannel, the whole well put together, and inner sleeve protects against storms.
The overalls are secured by a large running cord at the waist. The caps and hats are of
tasteful forms, and strongly made. Commended for thorough workmanship, taste, and
fitness for intended use.

8. P. B. Eager, Tower, & Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

OIL-CLOTH CLOTHING.

Report. — ^The products consist of yellow oil-cloth jacket, of fine fabric, for yachtmen,
with flannel facings for warmth and for dress, thoroughly made; of captain*s overcoat,
embroidered in front and on sleeves, faced with flannel, and having inner sleeves with close-
fitting wristbands to keep out storm; of overalls or pants secured at the waist with buckle
and leather belt, the latter fastened to the clolh with copper rivets. The buttons of the
coat are of zinc, nickel-plated for the more expensive, and secured by twisted wire and
stiongly stayed. Also of block jackets, overalls, souweslers, and overcoats; all of fine
fabric and well made. Commended for adaptation of buttons and belt to use in cold and
storm, and for taste, workmanship, and quality.

9. John G. McGee ft Co., Belfast, Ireland.

ULSTER OVERCOATS FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN, TRAVELING AND CARRIAGE CLOAKS.

Report. — Commended for originality and variety of design, skill in cut, and good taste
displayed in trimmings.

10. T. G. Fumeval, Canada.

CLOTHING.

Report. — Commended for skill in cut, appropriateness, taste in trimming, and good
workmanship.

II. R. P. Taylor ft Son, Toronto, Ontario, Canada.

MEN*S CLOTHING.

Report. — Commended for fair skill in cut, and durable workmlnship.

12. J. S. May, St. John, New Brunswick.

CLOTHING FOR GENTLEMEN.

Report, — Commended for good material, fair skill in cut, and good workmanship.

13. Nicetas Komarof, Moscow, Russia.

COLLECTION OF READY-MADE COATS MADE FROM DRESSED SHEEPSKINS.

Report. — Commended for adaptation, usefulness, good workmanship, and economy.

14. Broosnitzyn ft Sons, St. Petersburg, Russia.

WATER-PROOF LEATHER COAT WITH CAP AND CAPE COMBINED.

Report. — A specimen of leather tanning in the form of an overcoat together with a cap
and cape combined. The hair side out presents a remarkably smooth, almost glossy, black
finish. The texture and feel remind one of the finest samples of calf-skin. The sleeves
and pockets are lined with Italian cloth, and the body and skirt with flannel of fine quality.
The whole is substantially and thoroughly put together.

Commended for strength, finish, and water-proof quality.

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GROUP X, J,

15. Chief Intendency, St. Petersburg, Russia.

COLLECTION OF READY-MADE MILITARY CLOTHING.

Report, — ^This collection consists of — a^ soldier's uniform of horse-guards men ; b, under-
officer's uniform of life-guard ; c, soldier's uniform of life dragoon of his Majesty's regiment
of Moscow (army cavalry); </, soldier's uniform of 1st Nevsky regiment army infantry;
tt soldier's uniform of 1st Turkestan battalion ; soldiers* cloaks, gray, and gray with blue
collar. These products are of very high order in cut and workmanship.

16. Tailors' Society, Paris, France.

men's CLOTHING.

Report. — ^The exhibit is large, the garments cut in a variety of styles, and show skill in
cut, and good workmanship. Another feature worthy of notice is the fact that this is a
society of journeymen tailors organized for their mutual protection and the improvement of
their moral and intellectual condition.

17. A. Pereira Rego, Lisbon, Portugal.

MILITARY CLOTHING.
Report, — Commended for good skill in cut, and fine workmanship.

18. Antonio Mangeri, Messina, Italy.

men's CLOTHING.

Report, — Commended for novelty and skill in cut, and fine workmanship.

19. Salvatore Caldara, Palermo, Italy.

men's CLOTHING.

Report, — Commended as meritorious in cut, and of good workmanship.

20. Joh. Werner, Prague, Austria.
men's clothing.
Report. — Commended for great variety of the exhibit, fine skill in cut, good taste in
trimmings, and fine quality of the workmanship.

21. M. Mottl's Sons, Prague, Austria.
men's clothing.
Report, — Garments adapted to a great variety of purposes. Commended for high order
of skill in cut, fine taste in trimmings, and highest grade of workmanship.

22. Keller & Alt, Vienna, Austria.

clothing.

Report, — Commended for great variety of product, skill in cut, and good workmanship.

23. Beermann Straschitx, Prague, Austria.
men's clothing.
Report. — Commended for variety of the exhibit, fair skill in cut, and excellent work-
manship.

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32 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

24. E. F. Fernlund, Stockholm, Sweden.

CIVIL AND MILITARY CLOTHING.

Report, — Commended for skillful cut and excellent workmanship.

25. A. R. Wallgren, Stockholm, Sweden.

MILITARY CLOTHING.
Report. — Commended for skill in cut, and good workmanship.

26. B. Wiki, Luzerne, Switzerland.
men's clothing.
Report. — Commended for good material, skillful cut, and good workmanship.

27. Christian Mfiller, Copenhagen, Denmark.
oil-cloth clothing.
Report. — The product consists of a white overcoat and cowl, two thicknesses throughout
of fine fabric, the collar and cowl lined with red flannel, edges throughout bound with
flexible leather binding, strongly sewed ; a jacket double-bound with leather, collar faced
with flannel ; the buttons are sewed to a strip of leather, which is strongly sewed to the
lapel of both^the coat and jacket; the button-holes are bound with soft, flexible leather,
the fastening about the neck is with buckle and strap. The pants, double and reinforced
about the knee, are secured at the waist with a leather string. The souwester is bound
with leather, and leather ril« over the crown give stifl'ness to the form. Commended for
leather bindings of edges and of button-holes; for mode of staying the buttons; for adaptation
to use in severe weather ; and for thorough workmanship.

28. Star Knitting Co., Cohoes, N. Y., U. S.

COTTON, WOOL, AND MERINO UNDERWEAR.

Report. — Commended for uniformity in texture and finish.

29. C. A. Thudium & Son, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

knitted JACKETS.

Report. — Commended for material used, and excellence in color and general finish.

30. W. K. Greene's Sons & Co., Amsterdam, N. Y., U. S.

COTTON AND MERINO UNDERWEAR.

Report. — Commended as meritorious in view of cost and price.

31. John J. Glazier, Brother, & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

HOSIERY.
Report. — Commended for a large assortment of white and colored " circular" frame hose
and half-hose, and high degree of excellence in bleach and finish.

32. A. B. Hapke. Harrisburg, Pa., U. S. •

KNIT GOODS.

Report, — Commended for a great variety of patterns, and excellence in style and design.

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33. Peck & Greene, Brooklyn, N. Y., U. S.

WORSTED AND SILK GOODS FOR THEATRICAL, BOATING, AND GENERAL UNDERWEAR.

Report, — Commended for high standard in quality for the purposes intended.

34. Norfolk & New Brunswick Hosiery Co., New Brunswick, N. J., U. S.

KNITTED UNDERWEAR FOR LADIES, GENTLEMEN, AND CHILDREN.

Report. — Commended for high grade of material used, excellence in fashion, and general
finish.

35. American Hosiery Co., New Britain, Conn., U. S.

UNDERWEAR AND HOSIERY OF WOOL, MERINO, AND COTTON.

Report, — Commended for high standard of excellence in texture and finish, and perfec-
tion in fashion and form.

36. Q. H. Prindle, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

KNIT GOODS.

Report. — A fine display of novelties made of zephyr yam, and specially meritorious ast
to price, style, and quality.

37. Henry Gabriel & Sons, Allentown, Pa., U. S.

HOSIERY OF COTTON AND WOOL.

Report, — Commended for excellence in wearing qualities, and a close resemblance in
the general appearance to hand-knit goods.

38. Thos. Hughes & Co., Bristol, Pa., U. S.

COTTON, MERINO, AND WOOL HOSIERY.

Report, — A large and varied collection, suitable for men, women, and children.

39. Henry Zaiiner, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

HAND-KNIT AND CROCHET ZEPHYR GOODS FOR INFANTS.

Report, — Commended as excellent in appearance, with a view to price.

40. Lowell Hosiery Co., Lowell, Mass., U. S.

WOMEN'S PLAIN COTTON HOSE.

Report, — Commended for special adaptation to the use of the middle and working classes,
in regard to price and quality.

41. Otis Co., Ware, Mass., U. S.

HOSIERY AND UNDERWEAR.

Report. — Commended for excellence of texture, color, and finish in gauze underwear.

42. Martin Landenberger's Sons, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS.

Report, — High degree of excellence in color and finish, superb in design, and specially
commended for variety and assortment.

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34 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

43. Boston Manufacturing Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

COTTON HOSIERY.

Report, — Commended for excellent finish, especially in full and half fashioned products.

44. Wm. T. Hopkins, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

UNDERGARMENTS FOR LADIES AND CHILDREN, AND INFANTS* DRESSES.

Report, — Commended for variety of design, good quality of material, and good work-
up-

45. Homer, Colladay, & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

UNDERWEAR FOR LADIES AND CHILDREN, AND INFANTS' DRESSES.
Report, — Commended for beauty in design and scperior workmanship.

46. American Netting Underwear Co., C. H. Moeller, Propr., St. Louis, Mo., U. 8.

NETTED UNDERWEAR.

Report, — Commended for originality and novelty of construction with a view to venti-
lation, and excellence in fashion and finish.

47. Dana Bickford, New York, N. Y., U. S.

KNITTED ARTICLES.

Report, — Commended for a great variety of designs and styles.

48. Pennsylvania Industrial Home for Blind Women, Philadelphia, Pa., U. 8.

KNITTED GOODS, BEAD-WORK, AND BASKETS.
Report. — Commended for good and su1)stantial workmanship.

49. Annie E. Taylor, Philadelphia, Pa., U. 8.

KNITTED GOODS IN SILK AND WORSTED.
Report, — Commended for the excellent taste displayed in designs and coIotb.

50. I. & R. Morley, London, England.

HOSIERY AND GLOVES.

Report, — Commended for high degree of excellence in style, color, and ornamentation.

51. Smyth & Co., Dublin, Ireland.

HOSIERY.

Report. — Commended for the high standard for quality in every particular.

52. T. Tumbull, Gait, Ontario, Canada.

KNITTED UNDERWEAR.

Report, — Commended for excellence in color, and high grade of fabric.

53. McCrae & Co., Guelph, Ontario, Canada.

KNIT GOODS AND HOSIERY.

^<^^^/.__Commended for excellence of material used, and special adaptability to home
markets, and cold climates generally.

310

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GROUP X. ^g

54. Ancaster Knitting Co., Hamilton, Ontario, Canada.

KNITTED AND FANCY GOODS.

Report, — Commended for the large and varied assortment, and skill displayed in color
and Enish.

55. John Roonin, Moscow, Russia.

KNIT GOODS AND HOSIERY.

Report, — Commended for excellent finish, substantial fabric, and adaptability to the pur-
pose intended.

56. Nicholas Shereshefsky, Moscow, Russia.

ladies' underwear AND GENTLEMEN'S SHIRTS.

Report, — Commended for variety of design, good quality of the material and workman-
ship, and economy in cost.

57. Walter Horving, Wiborg, Finland, Russia.

KNIT GOODS.

Report. — Commended for excellence in style and workmanship.

58. Anne Winogradova, Nijni-Novogorod, Russia.

HOSIERY AND CAPS FOR LADIES, WITH SWAN FEATHER TRIMMINGS.

Report, — Coats and fichus entirely braided with swan. Commended for handsome pat-
terns and great novelty.

59. Poron Brothers, Troyes, Prance.

HOSIERY.

Report, — ^A large and varied assottment, of good make, style, and finish.

60. C. Bullot, Paris, France.

HOSIERY.

Report, — Commended for skill displayed in ornamentation, and high degree of excellence
in texture, color, and finish.

61. Dujardin Brothers, Leuze, Belgium.

COTTON AND WOOLEN HOSIERY.

Report, — Commended for skill displayed in workmanship and design, ana as very ex-
cellent in view of price.

62. Oliver & Co., Mataro, Barcelona, Spain.

HOSIERY AND UNDERWEAR.

Report, — Commended as of excellent finish and economical as to price.

63. Masoliver Brothers, Barcelona, Spain.

HOSIERY AND UNDERWEAR.

Report, — Commended as of high degree of excellence in quality of fabric, and especially
meritorious in regard to price.

Digitized by CjOOQIC

36 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

64. Luis Verderau, Spain.

UNDERWEAR FOR LADIES AND CHILDREN, CHILDREN'S DRESSES, COLLARS, AND CUFFS.

Report, — Commended for variety, good taste, and good workmanship.

65. Ousta Yani, Adrianople, Turkey.

WOOLEN HOSIERY.

Report, — Commended for substantial make and excellent finish.

66. Forol Yani, Trebizond, Turkey.

HALF HOSE FOR MEN OR WOMEN.

Report, — Commended for beautiful finish and fine quality of material.

67. Frau Von Hake, Berlin, Germany.

LADIES' UNDERWEAR.

Report, — Commended for good design and workmanship, and adaptability to the purpose
intended.

68. Fr. Ehreg Woller, Stollberg, Germany.

COTTON HOSIERY AND UNDERWEAR.

Report, — ^A very large and varied exhibit, excellent in quality and finish, and especially
meritorious in view of price.

69. Carl Mez & Sons, Freiburg, Baden, Germany.

OPEN MESH FILET UNDERWEAR IN COTTON AND SILK.

Report, — Commended for adaptability for the purpose intended, and economy in cost.

70. Miss Helen Cathrine Lundh, Christiania, Norway.

KNITTED GOODS BY THE EXHIBITOR AT THE AGES OF FIVE AND SIX YEARS.

Report, — Commended for good style and workmanship.

71. Jobs. Falkenberg, Christiania, Norway.

UNDERWEAR FOR LADIES.

Report. — Commended for variety in design, good material, and fine needlework.

72. Meyer- Wsespi & Co., Altstetten, Switzerland.

KNITTED UNDERWEAR.

Report, — Commended for large and varied assortment and excellence in make and
finish.

73. Blumer & Wild, St. Gallen, Switzerland.

HOSIERY AND FANCY KNIT GOODS.

Report, — Commended for new and unique designs, displaying good taste and work-
manship.

312

Digitized by CjOOQIC

CROUP X. 27

74. Al End-Ulme, Luzem, Switzerland.

KNITTED UNDERWEAR.

Report. — Commended for a high degree of excellence in texture and finish.

75. Mrs. Olivia P. Flynt, Boston, Mass., U. S.

WEATHER PROTECTOR FOR WOMEN AND CHILDREN.

Report, — Commended for novelty, entire fitness for purpose intended, and as being well
made.

76. Sharpless & Sons, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

COSTUMES FOR LADIES.

Report. — Commended for excellent taste in design, skill in cut, and good 'workmanship.

77. Mrs. E. Keyser, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

MISSES* CLOTHING AND INFANTS* OUTFITS.
Report. — Commended for good taste in, design and good work.

78. Madame Demorest, New York, N. Y., U. S.

FASHIONS, PAPER PATTERNS, DRESS CUTTING SYSTEM, AND SHIRT AND STOCK INO StJS-

PENDERS.

Report. — Commended for variety of production, good quality of the products, simplicity
and excellence of the dress-cutting system, and economy in cost.

79. S. T. Taylor, New York, N. Y., U. S.

DRESS-CinriNG SYSTEM AND PATENT BIAS CUTTER.

Report. — Commended for skill in the preparation of the system of dress cutting, and
adaptability in the bias cutter to the purpose intended.

80. Mrs. Elmira Comwell, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

GRADUATED CHART FOR DRESS CUTTING.

Report. — Commended as original, well fitted to the purpose intended, and economical
in cost

81. Mrs. B. A. Steams, Wobum, Mass., U. S.

GRADUATED CHART FOR DRESS CUTTING.

Report. — Commended for good form, adaptation to public wants, and economy in cost

82. Hitchcock, Williams, & Co., London, England.

COSTUMES OF MIXED FABRICS FOR LADIES.

Repo*i. — Commended for excellent taste in design, skill in cut, and fine workmanship.

Z^. Brown & Clagget, Montreal, Canada.

COSTUMES FOR LADIES.

Report. — Commended for variety in design, taste in trimmings, and as being well made.

313

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REP OR TS ON A WARDS.

84. Petrof & Medvedef, St. Petersburg, Russia.

CLOTHING FOR LADIES AND CniLDR^N.
Report. — Commended for great variety of styles, good quality of the material used, good
tas*<» and skill, and excellent workmanship.

85. A. Levilion, Paris, France.

COSTUMES FOR LADIES.

Report. — Commended for exquisite taste in the selection of material and trimmings, fine
skill in cut, and excellent workmanship.

86. Mme. Augustine Cohn, Paris, France.

COSTUMES FOR LADIES.

Report. — Commended for fine taste in the selection of the materials and trimmings,
great skill in cut, and excellent workmanship.

87. Mme. Vauthicr, Paris, France.

CHILDREN'S CLOTHING.

Report. — Commended for variety in design, good taste in trimming, and good workman*
ship.

88. L. Tcrrillon, Paris, France.

LADIES* DRESSES AND OTHER ARTICLI-:S FOR LADIES* WEAR; FOULARDS.
Report. — Commended for good variety in patterns, taste, and fine workmanship.

89. American Molded Collar Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

COMBINED CLOTH AND PAPER COLLARS.

Report, — Commended for originality, quality, and adaptation to the public wants.

90. Lockwood Manufacturing Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

PAPER COLLARS.

Report. — Commended for excellence in quality and economy in cost.

91. Rothschild Brothers & Gutmann, New York, N. Y., U. 8.

SHIRTS, DRAWERS, AND UNDERWEAR.

Report. — Commended for novelty in design of the " two in one shut," large variety of
styles, good workmanship, and economy in cost.

92. James Hayden, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SHIRTS AND DRAWERS.

Report. — Commended for the good material used, fine workmanship, and skill in
drawers cutting.

93. Michaelis & Kaskel, New York, N. Y., U. S.

SHIRTS AND UNDERWEAR.

Report, — Commended for variety in design, excellence of the workmanship, and for
fine embroideries.

314

Digitized by CjOOQIC

CROUP X. 39

94. Henry Atkinson, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

BUCKSKIN SHIRTS AND DRAWERS.

Report, — Commended for the buckskin shirts and drawers, skillful in cut, and of fine
workmanship.

95. Judson Brothers, New York, N. Y., U. S.

SHIRTS AND DRAWERS.

Report, — Commended for merit in cut and workmanship.

96. Conrad Brothers, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SHIRTS, COLLARS, AND CUFFS.

Report, — Commended for variety in designs, good quality of the material, and good
workmanship.

97. Skelton Tooke & Co., Montreal, Canada.

SHIRTS, COLLARS, AND CUFFS.

Report, — Commended for variety in design, good quality of the material used, good
work, and economy in cost.

98. Conde, Puerto, & Co., Spain.
men's shirts.
Report, — Commended for a great variety of patterns and styles, and gooJ workmanship;
very economical in cost. The firm is also worthy of notice for maintaining a school at
their own expense for the education of the children of their workmen.

99. A. & C. Kaufmann, Berlin, Germany.

PAPER COLLARS AND CUFFS, AND SHIRT FRONTS.

Report, — Commended for variety in design, good work, and a close imitation m em-
broidery to the genuine article.

100. Hess Brothers, Amrisweil, Switzerland.

COLORED COTTON SHIRTS.

Report. — Commended for variety of patterns, and great economy in cost.

loi. United States Corset Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

WOVEN CORSETS.

Report, — Commended for cheapness, durability, and good form.

102. Geo. Frost & Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

CORSETS, WAISTS, HOSE SUPPORTER, AND EMANCIPATION COkJET.

Report. — Commended as specially meritorious for young females.

103. Jacobs, Strouse, & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

CORSET STF.EI^ OR DUSKS.

Report, — Commended for strength and finish, combined with economy in cost

315

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40 J^EPORTS ON AWARDS,

104. Madame Demorest, New York, N. Y., U. S.

CORSETS.

Report. — Commended for utility, form, and fashion, and high degree of excellence in
workmanship.

105. Boston Comfort Corset Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

CORSETS WITHOUT BONES.

Report. — Conmiended for merit in the substitution of cords in place of bones ; also for
good workmanship.

106. Worcester Corset Co., Worcester, Mass., U. S.

CORSET AND SKIRT SUPPORTER.

Report. — Commended for originality in cut and form, good material, good workmanship,
and economy in cost.

107. A. W. Thomas, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

BUSTLE AND SKIRT ELEVATOR AND BOSOM FORM.

Report. — Commended fdr originality, skill in workmanship, and adaptation to the purpose
intended.

108. Mrs. H. S. Hutchinson, New York, N. Y., U. 8.

SKIRT SUPPORTING WAIST AND UNDER GARMENTS.

Report. — Conmiended for noveUy in design, and adaptation to the purpose intended,
and for good workmanship.

109. Brewster Brothers & Co., Birmingham, Conn., U. S.

COMBINED CORSET AND SKIRT SUPPORTERS.

Report. — Commended for good taste, material, workmanship, and great merit in summer
corset (open work).

no. M. Cohn & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

WOVEN CORSETS.

Report. — Important as a national industry. Commended for high degree of excellence
in form, quality, and ornamentation ; also for economy in cost.

III. Fay ft Resmolds, Boston, Mass., U. S.

JACQUELINE CORSETS AND MISSES* WAISTS.

Report. — Commended for excellence in form and quality.

112. Mrs. Harriet M. Chapman, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SKIRT SUPPORTING SHOULDER BRACE AND PUFF CORSET.

Report. — Commended for special merit in accomplishing the purpose of its construction.

113. P. Lenoir, Paris, France.

CORSETS.

Report. — Commended for excellence in workmanship ; especially for the corsets finished
with elastic cords.

3«6

Digitized by VjOOQIC

GROUP X. 4,

114. Farey & Oppenheim, Paris, Prance.

CORSETS.

Report, — Commended for high degree of excellence in fashion, form, and ornamentation.

115. J086 Cardona Baldnch, Barcelona, Spain.

WOVEN OPEN WORK, HYGIENICAL, AND SURGICAL CORSETS.

Report, — Commended for great variety and importance as a national industry, and es-
pecially for utility and workmanship.

116. J. M. Ottenheimer & Sons, Stuttgart, Germany.

WOVEN CORSETS.

Report. — Commended for good quality and workmanship, combined with economy in
cost and importance as a national industry.

117. Gros & Co., Bruchsal, Germany.

CORSETS.

Report. — Commended for excellence in form and quality, and for economy in cost

118. James McLintock & Sons, Bamsley, Yorkshire, England.

DOWN QUILTS, SKIRTS, PILLOWS, JACKETS, AND DRESSING GOWNS.
Report. — Commended for originality, utility, and fitness for the purpose intended.

119. Geo. Turner & Co., London, England.

MILITARY AND TRAVELING EQUIPMENTS, HAMMOCK AND VALISE.

Report. — Commended for originality, portability, and adaptation to the purpose intended.

120. J. A. H. Leynen-Hougaerts, Peer, Limbourg, Belgium.

CHURCH VESTMENTS.

Report, — Chasubles and church vestments of first-rate execution, fine taste, and at very
low prices.

121. Ellas Shadrin, Moscow, Russia.

CHURCH VESTMENTS.

Report. — Church images and pieces of vestments, with precious stones and gilt em-
broideries, all hand-made, of the most elegant style. Commended for originality, artbtic
taste, and superior workmanship.

122. Ro3ral War Office, Investment Department, Stockholm, Sweden.

COMPLETE EQUIPMENT OF FOOT AND MOimTED SOLDIERS.
Report. — Soldiers' uniforms merit great attention.

123. J. A. Ek, Stockholm, Sweden.

MILITARY EQUIPMENTS.

Report, — Commended for high quality and workmanship.

317

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•^Wv"*^''

42 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

124. Yates, Wharton, & Co., Newark, N. J., U. S.

HATS.

Report. — Commended for good style and workmanship, and economy in cost

125. R. Dunlap & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

HATS.

Report, — Commended for fine quality of the material used, and high grade of workman-
ship, and excellent taste in trimmings.

126. Haverhill Hat Co., Haverhill, Mass., U. S.

WOOL HATS.

Report, — Commended for good styles and great economy in price ; a product for the
people.

127. Schuyler, Hartley, & Graham, New York, N. Y., U. S.

MILITARY HATS AND CAPS.

Report, — Commended for good and various fashions, high quality.

128. J. S. Bancroft & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

. HATS.

Report, — Commended for variety of production, good quality, and fine workmanship.

129. Christian Nonenberger, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

HATTERS' BLOCKS AND TOOLS.

Report, — Commended for variety of product and general utility, and adaptability to the
purpose intended.

130. E. Morris & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SILK, SOFT, AND STIFF HATS.

Report, — Commended for good material, good style, and workmanship.

131. John B. Stetson ft Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SOFT AND STIFF FINE FUR-FELT HATS.

Report, — Commended for fine material used, variety in styles, and fine workmanship.

132. Blaylock ft Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SILK HATS.

Report, — Commended for quality of material and workmanship.

133. Pierson & Herman, Newark, N. J., U. S.

HAT BLOCKS, FLANGES, AND HATTERS' TOOLS.

Report, — Commended for good work, and adaptability to the purpose intended.

134. Jos. Schiller ft Co., St. Louis, Mo., U. S.

HATS.

Report. — Commended for good and various fashions, quality, and economy in cost

318

Digitized by VjOOQIC

CROUP X.
135. J. H. Fenton & Brother, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

HATS.

Report. — Commended for variety in styles, and good quality.

136. Alden Solmans, South Norwalk, Conn., U. S.

HATS.

Report, — Commended for good fashions and line quality.

137. F. H. Amidon's Son, New York, N. Y., U. S.

HATS AND CAPS.

Report, — Commended for good material used, good style, and workmanship.

138. Mrs. Orpha Conant, D wight. 111., U. S.

HAT OF COMMON JUNE GRASS.

[Made by the exhibitor in her eighty-fourth year.]
Report. — Commended for utility and economy, and for skill displayed in workmanship.

139. Lincoln, Bennett, & Co., London, England.

HATS.

Report. — Commended for great variety, good taste, and moderate price.

140. Tress & Co., London, England.

PITH AND FELT SOLAR HATS AND HELMETS.
Report. — Commended for great variety, good taste, moderate prices, and special novelty
in the Indian and tropical hats.

14T. Mrs. Trancilla Nash, Jamaica, West Indies.

HATS AND FLOWER LACE.

Report. — Exhibits various specimens of hats and flower lace made of Spanish dogger,
a kind of dry and dyed yucca lea'^es (yucra aid folia) and lace bark {logetta linfearia).
This exhibit shows how those leaves may be made serviceable.

142. I. Popp, Riga, Russia.

FELT HATS.

Report. — Commended for good taste and quality.

143. Theodore Weigt, Warsaw, Russia.

HATS, SILK AND FELT.

Report, — Commended for good taste and quality.

144. Edward Loth, Warsaw, Russia.

STRAW AND FELT HATS FOR LADIES AND CENTLEJfEN.

Report. — Commended for good taste, good design, fine workmanship.

319

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44 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

145. Leon Wilken (firm, Vandrague), Moscow, Russia.

HATS AND CAPS.

Report, — Commended for variety, good taste, and high quality of product

146. Basil Tchistiakof, St. Petersburg, Russia.

HATS AND CAPS.

Report, — Commended for variety, good taste, and high quxdity of product.

147. £. Nazarof, St. Petersburg, Russia*

HORSE GUARD HELMETS.
Report, — Commended for high quality of workmanship.

148. R. Wakamatsu, Minakuchi, Omi, Japan.

HATS MADE FROM WOOD FIDRE (WISTERIA CHINENSIS).

Report, — Commended for good workmanship, durability, and economy in cost.

149. Pierre Nimoz, Paris, France.

children's AND LADIES' FELT HATS.

Report. — Commended for nice patterns, good quality of material, flowers and feathers,
tasteful variety, and fine style.

150. J. B. Ruffin, Paris, France.

HATS for LADIES AND CHILDREN.

Report, — Commended as well made, of good finish, novel patterns, and of elegant style.

151. Gregorio Sartou, Seville, Spain.

HATS.

Report, — Commended for high quality, fine fashion, and lightness of felt hats.

152. Mateo de Homa, Zamora, Spain.

HATS.

Report, — Commended for good taste, various fashions, and moderate prices. He has
also a school for educating the children of his workmen.

153. Francisco Villasante, Madrid, Spain.

HATS.

Report, — Commended for good taste and moderate prices.

154. Guillermo Huelin & Son, Malaga, Spain.

PALMETTO HATS.

Report. — Very fine and well made patterns; moderate prices.

155. Juan M. Rojas, Manila, Philippine Islands.

HATS, MADE OF MANILA STRAW OF THE FINEST BRAU).

Report. — Commended for very light and good shape, superior material and workmanship.

320

Digitized by CjOOQIC

GROUP X. 45

156. Custodio Job6 Rodrigues, Braga, Portugal.

HATS.

Report. — Commended on account of importance to the country and economy in coft

157. Santos & Brother, Ovar, Portugal.

HATS.

Report. — Conmiended for good fashions and high quality.

158. Maia & Silva, Son, & Qoncalves, Oporto, Portugal.

HATS.

Report, — Conmiended for high quality of products.

159. Costa Braga & Son, Oporto, Portugal.

HATS.

Report. — Chief merit consists in the soft felt hats. Commended for very superior qual
ity, lightness, and good taste.

160, Widow of A. Roxo, Lisbon, Portugal.

HATS.
Report. — Commended for great variety, high quality, and novelty.

161. Lima Carvalho, Fayal, Portugal.

STRAW HATS.

Report, — Commended for good taste, good material, and fine workmanship.

162. Agricultural Fluminense Institute, Rio de Janeiro, Braxil.

FELT HATS AND HATS FROM BAMBOO.

Report. — Conmiended for good taste and workmanship.

163. Femandes Braga & Co., Rio de Janeiro, Brasil.

FELT STIFF HATS.

Report. — Commended for good quality and taste.

164. Francisco Fisher, Sflo Paulo, Brazil.

SILK AND FELT STIFF HATS FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN.

Report. — Silk hats of good quality and in excellent taste.

165. Bierrenback & Brother, S80 Paulo, Brazil.

STIFF* AND SOFT HATS OF SILK AND FELT.
Report. — Commended for lightness and thinness combined with durability.

166. Flora P. Reguifio, Bahia, Brazil.

SILK, FELT, AND BAMBOO HATS.

Report. — Commended for good quality, fashion, and workmanship, especially in bamboo
hats.

21 321

Digitized by CjOOQIC

40 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

167. Serafin ft Comeiro, Buenos Ayres, Argentine Republic.

HATS.

Report, — Commended for very fine quality.

168. Buffeti ft Ma3ra, Buenos A3rre8, Argentine Republic.

HATS.

Report, — Commended for good taste and workmanship.

169. Cesare la Farina, Palermo, Italy.

HATS.

Report. — Commended for various fashions, good taste, and moderate prices.

170. GaeUno Taddei, Florence, Italy.

STRAW HATS AND BRAIDED STRAW, STRAW SHOES AND SLIPPERS FOR LADIES.

Report. — Commended for good make, fine patterns, and great cheapness.

171. Santini Brothers, Florence, Italy.

STRAW HATS AND BRAIDED STRAW.

Report. — Great variety in regular trade style, well made, fine material, good finish, very
moderate prices.

172. Gabriele Rumieri, Naples, Italy.

SILK AND FELT HATS.

Report. — Commended for various fashions and good taste.

173. Agostino Duranti, Florence, Italy.
ladies' straw hats.
Report. — Commended for very fine work, large variety, and excellent quality of material.

174. Gio Qiacomo Kubli, Florence, Italy.
STRAW hats.
Report. — Commended for handsome variety, large manufacture (exporting for England
and United States), cheapness, and fine workmanship.

175. Workingmen's Benevolent Association, Falerone, Italy.

STRAW HATS.

Report. — Commended as a large variety, well fitted, good material, and low prices.

176. T. Huckel's Sons, Neutitschein, Austria.

HATS.

Report, — Chief merit consists in the soft fur felt hats. Commended for good work and
high quality of material.

177. John Skrivau ft Son, Vienna, Austria.

HATS.

Report. — Commended for great variety and high quality.

322

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GROUP X, 47

178. P. & C. Habig, Vienna, Austria.

HATS.
Report, — G>mmended for variety, good taste, and high quality.

179. E. Th. Indenniihle, Berae, Switzeriand.

STRAW HATS.

Report, — Commended as well made, good finish, first-rate material, and cheap.

180. Conrad Walser, Wohlen, Switzerland.

STRAW HATS, PLAITS, IMITATION IN COTTON OF HORSE HAIR BRAIDS.
Report. — Commended for first-rate execution, cheapness, and fine workmanship.

181. Chiesa Brothers, Locarno, Canton de Tessin, Switzeriand.

BRAIDS AND STRAW HATS, CANTON TESSIN A SPEaALTY.

Report. — Well made, good material, and fine finish.

182. Daniel Hays, GloversviUc, N. Y., U. S.

BUCKSKIN AND PECCARY-SKIN GLOVES AND GAUNTLETS.

Report. — Commended for elegant patterns, good quality, skill, and workmanship.

183. John C. Hutchinson, Johnstown, N. Y., U. S.

GLOVES AND GAUNTLETS TRIMMED WITH FUR AND LINED WITH WOOLEN PLUSH.

Report. — Commended as cheap, well made, and tasteful.

184. W. S. & M. S. Northrup ft Co., Johnstown, N. Y., U. S.

GLOVES AND GAUNTLETS (WELL SEWED AND FITTED UP).

Report. — Commended for fine workmanship and taste in patterns.

185. F. E. ColweU ft Co., Chicago, lU., U. S.

HUSKING GLOVES.

Report. — Commended for novelty and adaptation to a general public want, for husking

186. Fortune Hegle, New York, N. Y., U. S.

KID GLOVES.

Report. — Commended for high degree of excellence in quality, form, and fashion, and
especially meritorious in the Suede quality.

187. J. ft R. Moriey, London, England.

CLOTH, BEAVER, THREAD, AND COTTON GLOVES.
Report. — Commended for large variety, fitness, and cheapness.

188. Debenham ft Freebody, London, England.

GLOVES.

Report. — ^Very finely cut, sewed, and shaded in colors. Commended for fine workman -
thip and quality.

323

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48 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

189. Sarda (successor of Boyer), St. Petersburg, Russia.

GLOVES.
Report. — Good cut ; well sewed ; well finished ; fine workmanship.

190. Perrin Brothers, Grenoble, France.

KID GLOVES WITH FINE EMBROIDERY OF ELEGANT MONOGRAMS.

Report, — Commended for good patterns and elegant taste ; also for cheapness.

191. Hegle, Glandines, ft Corbeau, Paris, Prance.
ladies' kid gloves.
Report. — Well tanned and dyed skins ; good workmanship and taste.

192. Widow Buscarlet ft Mal6, Paris, France.
KID gloves.
Report. — Very well dyed ; fine material j excellent workmanship.

193. Eugene Berr, Paris, France.
KID gloves.
Report, — Well cut and finished ; tasteful patterns ; extraordinary cheapness.

194. Xavier Jouvin, Paris, France.

KID GLOVES.

Report. — Rich variety; first-rate quality; well cut; fine material; superior taste and
workmanship.

195. L^n Level, Brussels, Belgium.
KID gloves.
Report, — A fine assortment of kid gloves nicely finished; good color; elegant patterns;
well cut, and very cheap.

196. Felipe Stampa, Valladolid, Spain.

KID AND LINED GLOVES.

Report, — Commended as of good quality, well fitted, and very cheap.

197. Diogo Jorge, Lisbon, Portugal.

GLOVES OF ALL KINDS.

Report, — Great variety: colors, cut, and sewing very good; commended tor skill and
workmanship.

198. Oporto Glove Co., Oporto, Portugal.

LAMB AND KID GLOVES.

Report* — Commended for good colors, elegant patterns, and great cheapness.

199. Bernardino Antunes da Silva, Lisbon, Portugal.

REAL KID GLOVES.

Report, — Well cut and sewed ; good workmanship, and cheapness.

324

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GROUP X. 49

200. A. Cusset, City of Mexico, Mexico.

KID GLOVES.

Report. — Great progress for the short time of its existence ; good material ; well cut and
sewed.

20I. Eduardo Bossi, Naples, Italy.

GLOVES FROM LAMB, DOG, AND CAT SKINS.

Report. — Gloves from lamb, dog, and cat skins; commended for elegant patterns,
especially in driving gloves ; good finish, and very cheap prices.

202. J. L. Ranniger & Sons, Altenburg, Qermany.

LAMB-SKIN GLOVES.

Report. — Commended for great variety, skill, and workmanship.

203. Daniel Jeitteles, Esslingen-on-the-Maine, Qermany.

LEATHER GLOVES.

Report. — Well cut, well sewed ; great variety of colors, good patterns, and cheapness.

204. Heinrich Lehmann, Berlin, Germany.

KID AND WASH GLOVES.
Report. — Commended for wash gloves of very good quality, good shape, and cheap.

205. Heinrich Gulden, Chemnitz, Germany.

GLOVES OP THREAD, SILK, AND CLOTH.

Report. — Commended for tasteful patterns and cheapness.

206. John Nep Kubik, Stuhlweissenburg, Austria.

REAL KID AND WINTER GLOVES.

Report. — Handsomely lined, well cut, well finished. Commended for skill and work-
manship.

207. V. d. Aue & Kollmann, Prague, Austria.

LAMB-SKIN GLOVES.

Report. — Commended for excellent quality; large manufacturing for export; at a moderate
price.

208. Anton Pilot, Prague, Austria.

LAMB-SKIN GLOVES.

Report. — ^Well-made seamless patterns. Commended for cheapness and novelty.

209. Pranx & Max Stiasny, Vienna, Austria.

LEATHER GLOVES.
Report. — Very finely finished ; application of the ridelle, the first house which introduced
cutting by machinery. Commended for good material and good style.

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50 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

2IO. Simon Dewidels, Prague, Austria.

IAMB-SKIN GLOVES (LARGE MANUFACTURE).

Report, — G>mmended for tasteful style and cheapness.

211. Ludwig Stoger, Vienna, Austria.

LADIES* GLOVES (TWO BUTTONS).

Report, — Commended for very fine cut, fine material, and superior workmanship.

212. Anton Frese, Prague, Austria.

LAMB-SKIN GLOVES.

Report. — Conmiended for good quality, cheapness, and fine workmanship.

213. Alois Port, Vienna, Austria.

LADIES* LAMB-SKIN GLOVES (TWO BUTTONS).
Report. — Nicely cut; good style; excellent workmanship.

214. J. U. Bencker, Prague, Austria.

' LAMB-SKIN GLOVES.

Report. — Commended for fine aniline colors, good material, and low prices.

215. Edward Branneck, Vienna, Austria.

LADIES* LAMB-SKIN GLOVES (TWO BUTTONS).

Report, — Commended as well made and extraordinarily cheap.

216. Gabriel Mayer, Luxemburg, Grand Duchy of Luxemburg.

KID SKIN AND GLOVES.

Report. — Commended for great variety of kid skin and gloves for ladies and gentlemen;
fine shades of colors; good material; elegance in patterns; and very moderate prices.

217. Charles Auguste & Co., Luxemburg, Grand Duchy of Luxemburg.

KID SKINS AND GLOVES.

Report. — A very nice display of kid skins and gloves; good colors; well sewed. Com-
mended for high workmanship and great cheapness.

218. G. Swedmark, Malmd, Sweden.

LAMB AND KID SKIN GLOVES.

Report. — Lamb and kid skin gloves, well finished, good colors, elegant patterns, and
very low prices.

219. M. Jacoby & Co., Nottingham, England.

VALENCIENNES AND SILK GUIPURES.

Report. — Valenciennes and silk guipures, imitations of Swiss curtains, lace curtains,
black and colored laces, warranted fast. Commended for good make, handsome design,
and high skill in the various products.

326

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GROUP X.
220. Mrs. R. A. Wicksteed, OtUwa, Canada.

POINT LACES.

Report, — Commended for great excellence in taste and workmanship.

221. MisB Sidney Smith, Dundas, Canada.

LAC£ WORK HANDKERCHIEF.

Report, — Commended for excellent taste and fine workmanship.

222. Mrs. Nunn, Belleville, Canada.

POINT LACS.

Report, — Commended as tasteful in design and excellent in workmanship.

223. Miss Isabella Fairbanks, Halifax, Nova Scotia.

LACE HANDKERCHIEF.

Report, — Commended for good taste and very fine workmanship.

224. Verdi, Delisle ft Co., Brussels, Belgium, and Paris, Prance.

LACE.

Report, — ^This firm exhibits, in Belgium and France, the most magnificent sets of French
and Belgian laces. Commended for superior taste, great novelty, and first-rate workman-
ship.

225. Herbelot ft Devot, St.-Pierre-les-Calais, Prance.

LACES.

Report. — Commended for a fine exhibit of tulle, blond, and imitations of laces; large
variety of patterns, good style, good finish, and first-rate workmanship.

226. Dognin ft Co., Paris, Prance.

INDIA AND CHANTILLY LACES.

Report, — A most elegant variety, very handsome and new patterns, fine workmanship,
novelty, and superior taste.

227. Prances Brothers, St.-Pierre-les-Calais, Prance.

IMITATION OF SILK GUIPURES, WOOLEN AND SILK LACES.

Report, — Commended for nice drawings, elegance in style, great variety in patterns, and
cheapness in prices.

228. Bacquet Pather ft Co., St.-Pierre-les-Calais, Prance.

MACHINE-MADE LACES.

Report, — Commended for superior design, fine taste, and quality. They exhibit some
very tasteful patterns of Venetian lace, thread lace, and voide ulanaix, showing very high
improvements in working.

229. Robert Haxton ft Co., St.-Pierre-les-Calais, Prance.

IMITATION OF LACES, MADE BY MACHINERY.

Report, — Conmiended for elegant style in designs and fine workmanship.

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52 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

230. Collective Exhibit of the Calvados Manufacturers, France.

LACES.

Report* — ^A full and magnificent set of these French celebrated laces, very excellent taste
in designs, elegant patterns, and fine workmanship.

231. Rini Bergerem, Ypres, Belgium.

VALENCIENNES LACE.

Report, — A good display of regular trade ware. Commended for skill and workman-
ship.

232. Buchholz 9l Co., Brussels, Belgium.

LACE.

Report. — A very nice dress of the finest work and design, and a large variety of el^^ant
other patterns in vellum lace. Commended for fine workmanship and nice designs.

233. O. de Vergniers & Sisters, Brussels, Belgium.

LACE.

Report, — Very fine Grammont lace for parasols, light loose garments, and coifiures.
Commended for tasteful designs and elegance in style.

234. Bruyneel, Senior, Qrammont, Belgium.

BLACK LACS.

Report, — Commended for great variety, excellent quality, good patterns, and high skill.

235. Julie Everaert & Sisters, Brussels, Belgium.

LACES.

Report, — Black lace of fine quality, laces for handkerchiefs and fans, and fair variety of
Dther laces. Commended for elegance in style and high finish.

236. Saligo Vanden Berghe, Orammont, Belgium.

BLACK LACE.

Report, — Nice dresses for ladies, of black lace. Commended for fine execution and
very elegant style in designs.

237. Qhys-Bruyneel, Qrammont, Belgium.

BLACK LACE.

Report, — Commended for handsome execution of all kinds of black lace, good patterns,
and fine workmanship.

238. L. Sacr6, Brussels, Belgium.

LACES.

Report, — Splendid display of all kinds of laces for garments, fans, and dresses, in a very
high style and of superior finish.

239. Qillon-Steyaert, Courtrai, Belgium.

VALENCTENNES LACE.

Report, — A nice display of real Valenciennes laces, with applicated flowers, producing
good e£fect. Commended for handsome patterns and good finish.

328

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GROUP X. 53

240. B. De Qroote-Vierendeel, Qrammont, Belgium.

LACES.

Report, — A foil set of fine black lace for garments, parasols, bonnets, and mantillas, of
a regular and good make ; fine quality.

241. Vandezande Goemaere, Courtrai, Belgium.

VALENCIENNES LACE.

Report. — Remarkable variety of real Valenciennes lace, and fancy garments of great
breadth; handsome set of dresses. Commended for superior skill and workmanship.

242. Asylum of San Manuel, Malaga, Spain.

LACE WORK.

Report. — G>mmended for excellent taste and very fine workmanship.

243. Charity School of the Ladies' Catholic Association, Madrid, Spain.

LACE AND EMBROIDERED HANDKERCHIEF AND PRIEST*S VESTMENT.

Report, — Commended for great excellence in design and very superior workmanship.

244. Lady Augusto de Barros Piemental, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

LACE WORK.

Report, — Commended for excellent taste and fine workmanship.

245. D. G. D6erffers Sons, Eibenstock, Germany

EMBROIDERIES AND LACE CURTAINS.

Report, — Lace curtains, all hand-made, very fair in design and skill ; also very good
patterns of embroideries made by machinery. Commended for good work, taste, and
design.

246. J. Stramitzer, Vienna, Austria.

POINT GAUZE TAPE LACE.

Report, — ^Point gauze tape laces in an elegant style ; good finkh and nice taste.

247. Bemhard Metzner, Graslitz, Austria.

LACES, HANDKERCHIEFS, AND FAN DECORATIONS.

Report. — Commended for variety of laces, lace ruches, handkerchiefs, and fan decora-
tions, of good style and first-rate workmanship.

248. The Society " Friends of Handiwork," Stockholm, Sweden.

LACE WORK AND EMBROIDERY.

Report. — Commended for excellence in taste and workmanship.

249. Hirschfeld Brothers ft Co., St. Gallen, Switzerland.

SWISS LACE CURTAINS.

Report, — Swiss lace curtains made by hand. Commended for great variety in products,
high taste in the patterns, very good finish, and superior workmanship.

329

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54 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

250. Mrs. Helena Fuchs, St. Louis, Mo., U. S.

SILK EMBROIDERED LACE DRESS, WITH POINT-LACE TRIMMINGS.

Report, — Hand-made embroideries, well shaded in silk colors, fine drawing.

251. St. John's Guild, New Haven, Conn., U. S.

EMBROIDERIES.

Report, — Commended for artistic taste in design, and skill in workmanship.

252. Convent of the Sacred Heart, Elmhurst, Providence, R. I., U. S.

KNIT GOODS AND EMBROIDERY.

Report, — Commended for taste in style and skill in workmanship.

253. Jeff. O. Bentley, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

EMBROIDERIES AND BRAIDED AND STAMPED GOODS.

Report, — Commended for superiority of workmanship, tasteful monograms, and fine
embroidered pocket-handkerchiefs.

254. Union Benevolent Association, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

EMBROIDERY AND NEEDLE WORK.

Report, — Commended for excellent taste and good workmanship.

255. Mrs. W. Q. Weld, Jamaica Plains, Mass., U. S.

EMBROIDERED PANELS.

Report, — Commended for artistic taste, skill, and superior execution.

256. Miss Victoria Walker, Providence, R. I., U. S.

SILK EMBROIDERY.

Report, — Commended for good taste and workmanship.

257. Mrs. Sarah E. Anthony, Smyrna, Del., U. S.

MASONIC AND HISTORICAL EMBROIDERED PICTURE.

Report, — Commended fny originality in design and excellence in workmanship.

258. Mrs. M. S. M. Riley, Louisville, Ky., U. S.

EMBROIDERY AND NEEDLE WORK.

Report, — Commended for a great display of artistic taste and skill, and very high d^ree
of excellence in execution.

259. Mrs. C. Hewitt Pfordt, Albany, N. Y., U. S.

EMBROIDERY.

Report, — Commended for great taste in design and workmanship, displaying eztraor-
dinary skill.

260. Miss Susan E. Hall, Hartley Hall, Lycoming Co., Pa., U. S.

EMBROIDERY FOR CHURCH PURI*OSES.

Report, — Commended for artistic taste and skill displayed in designs, and very high
order of workmanship.

330

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CROUP X. 55

261. Mrs. L. B. Converse, Worcester, Mass., U. S.

EMBROIDERY.

Report. — Commended for excellence in design and taste, with great skill in execution.

262. Mrs. Jennie Ansorge & Miss Flora Bach, New York, N. Y., U. 8.

TABLE COVER, EMBROIDERY AND NEEDLE WORK.

Reporti—ComaktndieA. for good taste and excellent workmanship.

263. Miss lAzzit Todd, Columbus, Ohio, U. S.

EMBROIDERY.

Report, — Commended for excellent taste and superior workmanship.

264. Miss Sarah R. Bodtker, Wisconsin, U. 8.

EMBROIDERY.

Report, — Commended for great taste in design and skill in execution.

265. Employment Society, Providence, R. I., U. 8.

INFANTS* CLOTHING AND EMBROIDERIES.

Report, — Commended for display of good taste in design, and excellence in workmanship.

266. £. J. Sutes, Boston, Mass., U. S.

INFANTS' DRESSES AND EMBROIDERY.

Report, — Conunended for good style and workmanship.

267. Kursheedt ft Co., New York, N. Y., U. 8.

EMBROIDERIES, PUFFINGS, PLAITINGS, AND FLUTINGS.

Report, — Commended for skill, taste, and novelty. All exhibited goods are well made
and of tasteful pattern, especially in ruffling, and ruches, as well as in ladies* collars and
cuflls.

268. Brooklyn Female Employment Society, Brookl3m, N. Y., U. 8.

EMBROIDERY.

Report, — Commended for excellence in style and very good workmanship.

269. St. Rose's Orphan Asylum, Milwaukee, Wis., U. 8.

EMBROIDERY.

Report, — Commended for great display of taste in design and for fine workmanship.

270. C. ft £. Harding, lUington Lodge, Norfolk, England.

EMBROIDERY.

Report, — Commended for excellent taste, skill, and workmanship.

271. Simon, May, & Co., Nottingham, England.

EMBROIDERED CURTAINS, MANTLES, AND VESTIBULE LACES.

Report, — Embroidered curtains, mantles, and vestibule laces, of very tasteful design and
superior workmanship. Also embroideries with fast warranted colors.

33 «

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56 /REPORTS ON AWARDS,

272. Grey Nuns of Montreal, Montreml, Canada.

\ EMBROIDERED HANDKERCHIEF.

Report, — Commended for great skill in workmanship.

273. Hocbelaga Convent, Montreal, Canada.

EMBROIDERY, — PRIESTS* VESTMENTS.

Report, — Commended for great excellence in design and workmanship.

274. Convent Jesus and Mary, Quebec, Canada.

EMBROIDERY, — PRIESTS* VESTMENTS.

Report, — Commended for great excellence in design and workmanship.

275. Julius Reicbel, Warsaw, Russia.

EMBROIDERED SHIRTS AND CRAVATS, PRINTING IN COLORS ON UNEN.

Report, — Commended for novelty and good finish.

276. K. Hodjaef, St. Petersburg, Russia.

SILVER AND GILT EMBROIDERED JACKETS FOR LADIES; ALSO EMBROIDERIES IN PERSIAI*

AND TURKISH STYLES.

Report. — Commended for first-rate execution, originality, and taste.

277. Julius Florand, St. Petersburg, Russia.

EMBROIDERIES.
Report, — Silk embroideries on flannel ; point lace, hand-made embroideries ; handker-
chief, shirts, and collarettes of very good make; commended for elegant style and quality.

278. M. Komarof, St. Petersburg, Russia.

GILT AND SILVER EMBROIDERIES, MADE BY HAND ON LINEN, CLOTH, SILK, AND LEATHER.
Report. — Conunended for very fine, tasteful design and superior skill.

279. Kretof, Orenburg, Russia.

EMBROIDERIES, MADE BY HAND ON CLOTH, IN TURKISH STYLE.

Report, — ^Trimmings and hosiery for ladies, very well made. Commended for good
taste and fine work.

280. Meunier & Co., Paris, France.

EMBROIDERED TOWELS, CURTAINS, PAUNEAUX OR PORTltRES.

Report. — Embroideries made by hand, after old style, in fast warranted colors; great va-
riety and novelty in patterns; curtains with embroidered colors on applicated muslin, strong,
well made, splendid shading of colors, beautiful designs, at comparatively small cost.
Commended for high skill, taste, and fine workmanship.

281. Marquis of TalhouSt-Roy, Paris, Prance.

RAND-MADE SILK EMBROIDERIES OF BLACK SILK IN JAPANESE STYLE.

Report. — Well-variegated colors, elegant style, high taste, and fine workmanship.

332

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CROUP X. 57

282. Ch. Babey, Calais, Prance.

EMBROIDERED CURTAINS MADE BY MACHINERY, FAST WARRANTED COLORS.

Report, — Commended for handsome combination of colors, novelty, and nice drawings;
well shaded.

283. I. A. Vessiire-Paulin, Paris, Prance.

HAND-MADE EMBROIDERIES IN CHILDREN'S CLOTHING.

Report. — ^Well made; tasteful and elegant patterns; fine workmanship.

284. Pow Loong, Canton, China.

EMBROIDERIES ON SILK, MOUNTED IN SCREENS.

Report. — Embroideries on silk mounted in screens, of a magnificent design and original
taste, superior workmanship, and fine shading in colors.

285. S. Nishimura, Kiyoto, Japan.

EMBROIDERIES.

Report, — Fine display of embroideries on silk; rich colors, partly printed and partly em-
broidered. Commended for originality in taste and for cheapness.

286. Tanaka, Kiyoto, Japan.

PICTURES IN SILK EMBROIDERIES.

Report, — Commended for very peculiar and original pictures in silk embroideries, origi-
nal taste, high skill, and superior execution.

287. Provincial Poundling Asylum, Avila, Spain.

EMBROIDERY.

Report, — Commended for good taste in design and workmanship.

288. Celedonia Quibelalde, Madrid, Spain.

EMBROIDERED PICTURE OF KING ALFONSO XII.

Report, — Commended for artistic skill and taste.

289. Benita ft Louisa Nin ft Mafie, Barcelona, Spain.

EMBROIDERY AND TATTING.

Report. — Commended for a high degree of excellence in taste and workmanship.

290. Pemale Asylum of Charity, Seville, Spain.

EMBROIDERY, HANDKERCHIEF, AND CHILD*S SHIRT.

Report. — Commended for excellent taste and workmanship.

291. Theodora D4vila, Manila, Philippine Islands.

EMBROIDERY.

Report, — Commended for excellent taAte and very fine workmanship.

333

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58 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

292. Municipal School for Girls, Manila, Philippine Islands.

EMBROIDERY.

Report, — Commended for high degree of excellence in design and workmanship.

293. Embroidery School for Women, Rio de Janeiro, Braxil.

EMBROIDERY.

Report, — Commended for good taste and workmanship.

294. M. Hirschberg ft Co., Eibenstock, Germany.

EMBROIDERIES.

Report. — An assortment of good patterns of machine and hand-made embroideries and
lace flowers for ladies' dress; also a tasteful white silk blond shawl.

295. Edward A. Richter, Vienna, Austria.

EMBROIDERIES.

Report, — ^Variegated embroideries and working materials; great variety of colors; well
done; fine, elegant taste; cheapness and workmanship.

296. Miss Cathrine Fojm, Christiania, Norway.

EMBROIDERY ON WOOLEN CLOTH.

Report, — Commended for good workmanship and excellence in design.

297. Miss R. Sundt, Christiania, Norway.

EMBROIDERY.

Report. — Commended for good taste and workmanship.

298. Christiania Drawing Office, Christiania, Norway.

EMBROIDERY AND PATTERNS FOR EMBROIDERY.

Report, — Commended for high degree of excellence in design and execution.

299. Mrs. Mina Wasbo, Stavanger, Norway.

EMBROIDERY.

Report, — Conmiended for excellence in design and colors.

300. Drawing School of the Board of Trade, St. Gallen, Switzerland.

EMBROIDERIES.

Report, — ^This school, supported by the Board of Trade, and managed by the principal
manufacturers, is a very important institution to sustain the progress of the embroiderers*
industry. The curtains exhibited by the school are executed after the drawings of the
scholars, and show the progress made.

301. Steiger ft Co., Herisau, Switzerland.

CURTAINS EMBROIDERED BY HAND ON MUSLIN.

Report, — Commended for tasteful drawings and reasonable prices.

334

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GROUP X, 59

302. Basquin, Hector ft Schweiser, St. Gallen, Switzerland.

EMBROIDERIES.

Report, — Machine embroideries in cotton and linen of an important extent, great variety
of very tasteful and well- worked patterns, especially in linen embroideries ; nice samples
of collars, cufls, and under-garments for regular trade. Commended for quality and skill.

303. Bion ft Tschumper, St. Qallen, Switzerland.

EMBROIDERIES.

Report, — ^Mechanical embroideries for ladies* under-garments and dresses, cuffs, collars,
etc. First-rate design and splendid workmanship in the patterns exhibited by this firm.
Commended for design, cheapness, and workmanship.

304. Alder ft Meyer, Herisau, Switzerland.

EMBROIDERIES.

Report, — Embroidered trimmings made by machinery; very fair collection; patterns of
good taste and nicely made.

305. Ikli Brothers, St. Qallen, Switzerland.

EMBROIDERIES.

Report, — A fair assortment of mechanical embroideries, specialty of linen, silk, and
woolen embroideries for ladies' dresses, application of silk on black necklace for ladies,
and very good regular trade samples for under-garments, collars, cuffs, etc. Commended
for skill and workmanship.

306. C. Stilheli-Wild ft Co., St. Qallen, Switzerland.

EMBROIDERIES.
Report, — The display shows a large and rich variety of hand-made and mechanical
embroideries, especially ladies* dresses, silk robes, and costumes. Commended for tasteful
patterns and fine finish.

307. Joel Thomas, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

RUCHES, LADIES* AND INFANTS* CAPS, RUFFLINGS, AND COLLARETTES.

Report. — Commended for fitness and cheapness; two hundred various patterns; well
made, and very moderate prices.

308. Miss Jeannie Whittemore, Charleston, S. C, U. S.

WORSTED WORK— PICTURE OF GENERAL WASHINGTON.

Report, — Commended for excellence in skill and workmanship.

309. Employees of American Button-Hole Sewing-Machine Co., Philadelphia,

Pa., U. S.

SEWING-MACHINE WORK.

Report. — Commended for excellence of workmanship.

310. Lina Fuldner, Milwaukee, Wis., U. S.

NEEDLE WORK.

^<^rr.— Commended for artistic taste in design and great display of skill in execution.

335

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6o REPORTS ON AWARDS.

311. Bene, Creighton, ft Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

OSTRICH FEATHERS.

Report. — ^Well-dyed and variegated feathers. Commended for cheapness, quality,
color, and finish.

312. Mrs. Annie T. Auerbach, Troy, Ala., U. S.

BED-SPREAD OF SATIN AND SILK CROCHET WORK.

Report, — Conmiended for novelty in design and excellent workmanship.

313. Working School of Village of Adare, under the Patronage of the Countess of
Dunraven, Adare, County of Limerick, Ireland.

NEEDLE WORK^

Report, — Commended for embroideries on lawn, executed by the members of her work-
ing school in the village of Adare, county of Limerick ; well-made robes, insertions for
dresses, and pin-cushion covers,

314. Mrs. De B. McDonald, Montreal, Canada.

GOBELIN TAPESTRY.

Report, — Commended for great excellence in taste, skill, and workmanship.

315. Mrs. Sutcliffe, Halifax, Nova Scotia.

NEEDLE WORK — «* LAST SUPPER."

Report, — Commended for superior skill and workmanship.

316. The Misses Farrell, Halifax, Nova Scotia.

FANCY WOOL WORK.

Report, — Commended for very good taste and great skill in execution.

317. Miss Park, Watertown, Canada.

KNITTING AND TATTING.

Report, — Commended for great taste and skill in workmanship.

318. Alfred Bailey, Douai, France.

TULLES AND GIMP FOR FURNITURE, LACE IMITATIONS.

Report. — ^Imitation of Valenciennes of good style; nice drawings; fine workmanship.

319. B. 9t C. Dieutegard, Paris, France.

SILK AND WOOLEN TRIMMINGS FOR DRESSES AND FURNITURE.

Report, — Commended for large variety, elegant and tasteful patterns, good quality of
material, and superior workmanship.

320. Government of Venezuela.

ORNAMENTAL HAIR, FEATHER, AND NEEDLE WORK.

Report. — I. Representation of Washington, made of the hair of General Bolivar, Liher-
ator of South America, and of several other generals ; the property of General Guzman

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GROUP X. 6 1

Blanco ; artist, Faustino Padron. Commended for originality of conception in preparation
and treatment of material.

2. Collection of hammocks embroidered with feathers. Commended for brilliant effects
produced by grouping in fringes gorgeously colored natural feathers of tropical birds.

3. pin-cushion in needle work. Commended for its delicacy and beauty.

4. Embroidered handkerchiefs. Commended for the extraordinary fineness and delicacy
of the needle work.

5. Basket with artificial flowers made of feathers. Commended for beauty of design
and taste in comp>osition of colors.

6. Handkerchiefs. Commended for delicate embroidery.

7. Gold embroidered saddle cloth furnished by G. Sprengle, Caracas. Commended for
elegance and richness of fabric and of color, and for taste in design.

8. Two bouquets, one in a basket and the other in a pot of natural flowers, contributed
by Wm. G. Boulton. Commended for exquisite beauty and brilliancy of color of flowers
and foliage.

9. Wax fruit, seed, and flowers. Conmiended for utility in illustration.

321. Baroness de Surupy, Rio de Janeiro, Braxil.

CROCHET WORK IN WORSTED YARN.

Report. — Commended for skill and taste displayed in design and combination of colors.

322. W. Schmidl's Sons, Vienna, Austria.

HABERDASHERY, TRIMMINGS, SILK AND WOOLEN BRAIDS (HAND-MADE).

Report. — Great variety of trimmings ; inside cotton, covered with silk. Commended for
good taste in patterns and cheapness of prices.

323. John Blanzincic ft Sons, Vienna, Austria.

MILITARY TRIMMINGS.

Report, — Commended for good taste and workmanship.

324. Miss Anna Krets, Christiania, Norway.

NEEDLEWORK IN CLOTH AND FEATHERS.

Report. — Commended for novelty in design and excellence in workmanship.

325. J. M. Fyrwald, Stockholm, Sweden.

MILITARY TRIMMINGS.

Report, — Commended for high quality.

326. Charlotta Bagge, Kramfors, Sweden.

PILLOW CUSHION.

Report. — Commended for excellent taste and good workmanship.

327. Isler, Aloyse, 9t Co., Wildegg, Canton of Aargau, Switzerland.

BRAIDS FOR HATS MADE OF HORSE HAIR AND IMITATION OF HORSE HAIR IN COTTON.

Report. — Commended for great variety, excellent make, and cheapness.
22 337

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02 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

328. W. A. Drown ft Co., PhiladelphU, Pa., U. S.

UMBRELLAS AND PARASOLS, CUT AND COVERED WITH A SUPERIOR FITNESS, STICKS AND
HANDLES OF THEIR OWN MAKE.
Report, — Commended for excellent finish and careful selection of good material.

^ 329. Joseph F. Tobin, New York, N. Y., U. S.

WHALEBONE GOODS.

Report. — Commended for excellence in preparing the whalebones for all purposes
intended, and canes, perfect workmanship of his products.

330. Heiter A Gans, New York, N. Y., U. S.

UMBRELLAS AND PARASOLS WITH AUTOMATIC RUNNER.

Report, — Commended for very good improvement, convenient and useful; also for
invention, and qtiality.

331. Thos. Miller, New York, N. Y., U. S.

UMBRELLAS.

Report, — Commended for a high degree of excellence in style, and special regard to
strength combined with light weight.

332. Ellis, Knapp, ft Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

UMBRELLAS AND PARASOLS WITH BURGLAR-PROOF RUNNER.
Report. — Commended for superior mechanism, workmanship, and novelty.

333. Qlendenning ft Truitt, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

WHIPS AND VARIOUS RIDING ARTICLES.

Report, — Commended for quality, skill, and fine workmanship.

334. Swain ft Adency, London, England.

WHIPS.
Report, — All the articles exhibited are very well made. Especial attention may be called
to the whips, which are first-rate in taste, quality, and fitness. Commended for quality and
fine make.

335. Davis ft Wilson, Birmingham, England.

MOUNTING FOR WALKING STICKS, WHIPS, AND UMBRELLAS.

Report, — A fine set of superior mountings for walking sticks, whips, and umbrellas ;
perfect execution ; great variety of styles ; and at very moderate prices.

336. William Henry Martin, London, England.

UMBRELLAS, WALKING STICKS, AND WHIPS.

Report. — A first-rate assortment of umbrellas, walking sticks, and whips. The umbrellas
especially are of the best and finest execution, and are commended as standard in quality
and workmanship.

338

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GROUP X. 63

337. Antonio Noailles, Zaragoza, Spain.

WALKING CANES OF DOMESTIC WOOD.

Report, — ^Very finely carved and finished. Commended for tasteful designs and origi-
nality.

338. Manuel Antonio Diogo, Oporto, Portugal.

SILK UMBRELLAS, WITH IVORY HANDLES.

Report, — ^Very good work ; extremely moderate prices.

339. Mustapha Ousta, Broussa, Turkey.

EBONY CANE, INLAID WITH SILVER.
Report, — Conmiended for very fine work, tasteful designs, and first-rate execution.

340. Righini Brothers, Turin, Italy.

UMBRELLAS AND PARASOLS.

Report. — Umbrellas and parasols, especially for traveling. Commended for ingenuity,
good finish, cheapness, and novelty.

341. Berlin Umbrella Factory (Joseph Sachs ft Co.), Berlin, Qermany.

UMBRELLAS.

Report, — Commended for good shape, ingenious mechanism, and extraordinary cheap-

342. Althof, Bergmann, ft Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

MECHANICAL TOYS.

Report, — Commended for very ingenious mechanisms, imitating very naturally the motion
of the human body, originality, fitness, and cheapness.

343. Robert Nickle, Rochester, N. Y., U. S.

MAGICAL APPARATUS AND TOYS.
Report. — Commended for quality, skill, and fine workmanship.

344. W. C. Goodwin, New Haven, Conn., U. S.

TOY MONEY-SAFES.

Report, — Commended for novelty in design and construction, recording each coin as it is
dropped in.

345. Eugene Begg, Paterson, N. J., U. S.

MODEL LOCOMOTIVE, TRAIN OF PASSENGER CARS, AND TRACK.

Report. — The locomotive is driven by the flame of an alcoholic lamp. The train includes a
tender and Pullman and ordinary passenger cars, supported on two four-wheel trucks. The
track is a long oval, of twenty-five feet in length. The locomotive and cars are richly and
tastefully finished and of substantial construction. Commended for elegance of design, and
as being admirably suited for purposes of illustration and instruction.

339

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64 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

346. Mrs. R. E. Jenkins, Bordentown, N. J.» U. S.

DOLLS' SHOES.
Report, — Commended for good finish.

347, Pope Manufacturing Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

RIFLE AIR-PISTOU

Report, — Comnxended for ingenious mechanism of a cheap and serviceable instruipent
for exercise and amusement, also for beginners in practicing marksmanship ; also for ongi>
nality and novelty, as well as for the fitness.

348. W. B. Carr ft Co., Brooklyn, N. Y., U. S.

BASE BALLS.

Report.—y^eX-mzAt base balls.

349. L. H. Mahn, Jamaica Plains, Mass., U. S.

BASE BALLS.

Report, — Commended as very well sewed and of good material and design.

350. J. D. Shibe A Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

BASE BALLS.

Report. — Well-constructed triple ball, well sewed.

351. Peck ft Snyder, New York, N. Y., U. S.

BASE BALL SUPPLIES.

Report, — Suits well made.

352. Reach ft Johnston, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

BASE BALL AND SPORTING GOODS.

i?^^f/.^— Suits well made and of tasteful design.

353. Z, Iwai, Naro, Yamato, Japan.

TOYS.

Report, — ^The bodies of animals are well executed and of high finish. Commended for
originality and splendid finish.

354. Faivre, Paris, France.

GREAT VARIETY OF TIN TOYS.
Report.— y try well fitted up. Conmiended for cheapness, skill, and workmanship.

355. F. F. Jumeau, Paris, France.
dolls' heads and bodies.
Report, — A fine collection, dressed in a most fashionable style ; the heads of the finest
imitation, superior taste, and excellent workmanship in mechanical construction.

340

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GROUP X.

356. Trufy, Paris, France.

FINE MECHANICAL TOYS.

Report, — Commended for very gck)d execution and combination of movements, great
variety, skill, and workmanship.

357. I. A. Issmayer, Nuremberg, Germany.

TIN TOYS.
Report, — Commended for improvement and introduction of novelties' in the assortment
of tin toys, great variety, skill, and cheapness.

358. L. Uebelacker, Nuremberg, Germany.

MAGNETIC TOYS.

Report, — Commended for large variety, good workmanship, and very moderate prices.

359. J. D. Oehm & Sons, Grunhainichen, Germany.

WOODEN TOYS.

Report, — Regular trade ware of a very popular style and extraordinary cheapness.

360. Cuno & Otto Dressel, Sonneberg, Germany.

DOLL LADIES AND HEADS.

Report. — Commended for great variety, solid material, and cheapness, especially heads
with good-looking features.

361. L. Schttnemann, Magdeburg, Germany.

DRESSED DOLL LADIES.

Report, — Fine and various dresses. Commended for good workmanship and great variety
of patterns.

362. Heinrich Sichling, Nuremberg, Germany.

DRESSED DOLLS (FOR WHOLESALE TRADE).

Report. — Commended as well finished, of various patterns, and great cheapness.

363. Ernst Plank, Nuremberg, Germany.

MAGIC LANTERNS, MODELS OF STEAM ENGINES, AND TINNED WORK.
Report. — Commended for good finish and fine workmanship.

364. Barth & Wagner, Rodacb, Germany.

TOYS.

Report. — Performing animals, very well imitated from nature.
Good work, at very low prices.

365. J. G. Nermann, Nuremberg, Germany.

VARIETY OP TIN CAST WARE IN FANCY SOLDIERS OP ALL COUNTRIES

Report. — Commended for good patterns, very moderate prices, fitness, and workmanship.

341

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66 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

366. C. Baudenbacher, Niiremberg, Germany.

MAGICAL APPARATUS.

Report. — Commended for ingenious combination of mechanism, large variety in patterns,
elegant appearance, and novelty.

367. Miss Elizabeth Sahler, Kingston City, N. Y., U. S.

WAX FLOWERS.

Report. — Commended for artistic taste and skill, especially in autumn leaves.

368. Mrs. J. H. Martin, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

FEATHER FLOWERS.

Report. — Commended for elegant style, well-shaded colors, taste, and workmanship.

369. Miss A. De Etu Bloodgood, New York, N. Y., U. S.

WAX FLOWERS, LEAVES, SHELLS, AND FRUIT.

Report. — Commended in that the exhibitor excels in the natural .effects produced in va-
riegating and in shading of colors, especially of fruit and flowers ; also for perfection of
taste and accuracy in imitating the structure of flowers.

370. Birge ft Berg, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS OF VARIOUS COLORS AND SHADES.

Report. — Commended in that the exhibitors show high progress in regard to fine work-
manship ; for natural effect produced, superior finish, and taste in arrangement ; for a new
industry, as this one is in the United States ; also for their patented cartoons, which give
a better appearance to flowers, and keep them in good state after packing.

371. Bender ft Philips, Hoboken, N. J., U. S.

SHEET WAX AND WAX-FLOWER MATERIALS.

Report. — Commended for skill and good workmanship.

372. General Hospital, Quebec, Canada.

ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS.
Report. — Commended for a great display of artistic taste and skill.

373. Madame F. de Richelieu, Windsor, Victoria, Australia.

FLOWERS MADE FROM FISH SCALES.

Report. — Flowers made from fish scales, very nicely executed, and hand-made. Com-
mended for artistical workmanship and skill.

374. L. Delivre, Paris, France.

ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS.

Report. — Commended for good finish, taste, and workmanship, especially the roses, which
are very like nature.

342

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GROUP X, 67

375. L. Hielard ft Co., Paris, France.

ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS AND OSTRICH FEATHERS.

Riport, — Commended for great and rich variety, elegant styles and finish, taste, skill, and
workmanship.

376. Oosse-Perier, Paris, Prance.

ARTIFICIAL FIELD FLOWERS AND VIOLETS.

Report. — Superior in the imitation of colors and structure, good taste, and low prices.

377. General Guzman Blanco, President of Venezuela.

BOUQUETS MADE OF NATURAL FEATHERS.

Report, — Commended for taste and skill as shown in remarkably gorgeous and life-like
effects, by combinations of brilliant and variously colored feathers in natural hues, to pro-
duce, with little other aid than that of the scissors, numerous flowers of great richness and
beauty.

378. Guilbermina d'Oliveira Pinho, PonU Delgado, Portugal.

FEATHER FLOWERS.

Report, — Commended for excellent taste, nice material, and fine workmanship.

379. Maria Magdalena de Souza, Ponta Delgado, Portugal.

ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS.

Report, — Commended for very fine taste, good execution, and originality displayed in the
manufacture of artificial flowers from the pith of the fig-tree and from stearine.

380. Mrs. Silveira de Souza, Sta. Catharina, Brazil.

FLOWERS MADE FROM FISH SCALES AND EGG SHELLS.

Report, — Flowers made from fish scales and ^g shells. Commended for very fine taste,
high skill, and originality.

381. Misses M. ft £. Natti, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

FLOWERS MADE FROM FEATHERS.

Report, — Great variety of flowers entirely made from feathers; very well shaded in
national colors ; fine structure and high taste.

382. Miss Antonia Alcocer, City of Mexico, Mexico.

WAX FLOWERS AND FRUITS.

Report. — Commended for good style and excellent imitation of nature, skill, and work-
manship.

383. Miss M. Pensado, Jalapa, Mexico.

FLOWERS MADE FROM HORN SHAVINGS.

Report, — Made in a very splendid manner, fine workmanship and taste.

384. Countess Pauline Baudissin, Vienna, Austria.

ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS.

Report. — Commended for natural appearance, well-variegated colors, skill, taste, and
workmanship.

343

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68 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

385. Miss Pauline Hoist, Drammen, Norway.

ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS.

Report, — Commended for the skill and artistic taste displayed.

386. New York Button Co., Brooklyn, N. Y., U. S.

METALLIC AND COVERED BUTTONS.

Report. — Commended for utility, quality, and cheapness.

387. Scovill Manufacturing Co., Waterbury, Conn., U. S.

METALLIC BUTTONS FOR MILITARY, ETC, FOR FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC MARKETS, ALSO
LASTING AND OTHER COVERED BUTTONS.

Report, — Commended for excellence of quality, taste, and variety in designs.

388. National Button Co., Easthampton, Mass., U. S.

IVORY AND CLOTH BUTTONS.
Report, — Commended for quality, durability, and cheapness; strong and well made.

389. Porter Brothers ft Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

METALLIC PANTALOON BUTTONS.

Report, — Commended for novelty, utility, and economy.

390. Waterbury Button Co., Waterbury, Conn., U. S.

LARGE VARIETY OF PATTERNS, METALLIC AND COVERED BUTTONS.

Report. — Commended for originality of design; fine goods in every respect; a large and
important business ; variety in design.

391. James Fenton, Birmingham, England.

PEARL BUTTONS.

Report, — ^The pearl buttons for shirts exhibited by this firm are first-rate in quaUty and
workmanship ; an excellent display.

392. F. Bapterosses, Paris, Prance.

BUTTONS AND PEARLS OF EVERY SIZE, MANUFACTURED ON A VERY LARGE SCALE.

Report. — Commended for superior finish, novelty, design, and cheapness.

393. P. Feu ft Sons, Barcelona, Spain.

METALLIC BUTTONS,
Report. — Great and handsome variety. Commended for good style, high finish, and

taste.

394. H. Schalck, Lisbon, Portugal.

BUTTONS, AND HOOKS AND EYES.

Report, — Commended for good workmanship and low prices.

344

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GROUP X, 69

395. Goncalves Ribas ft Co., Oporto, Portugal.

BUTTONS.

Report, — Great variety of patterns ; silk with glass metal, cotton lasting. Commended
for skill and cheapness.

396. Eduard Peine, Hamburg, Germany.

IVORY AND TORTOISE-SHELL SLEEVE BUTTONS.

Report. — Commended for very good patterns, large assortment, good finish, and cheap-

397. Turner's Sample Office, Vienna, Austria.

BUTTONS.
Report, — ^Tasteful and cheap sleeve buttons, of mother of pearl and ivory. Commended
for fine workmanship and taste.

398. Franz Anton Puschner, Tyssa, Bohemia, Austria.

BUTTONS.

Report, — Buttons in metal in great variety ; extraordinary cheapness.

399. Collective Exhibit of Vienna Pearl Button Manufacturers, Vienna, Austria :

Vincenz Schftdelbaur, Josef Jaruschka, Ignaz Krehan, Wilhelm Schwan,

Adalbert Wittek, Karl Steindl, Peter Wielander.

PEARL BUTTONS.

Report, — All the exhibitors show a display of mother of pearl buttons, nearly all in the same
style. After our judgment, we think it would be an injustice to select any one of them. •

400. Oakville Co., Waterbury, Conn., U. S.

FINS OP ALL SIZES.

Report, — Commended for quality and cheapness, especial excellence in the finish of the
points.

401. I. W. Stewart, New York, N. Y., U. S.

VARIETY OF NURSERY AND SHAWL PINS.
Report. — Commended for good workmanship and finish, and cheapness.

402. Kirby, Beard, ft Co., Birmingham, England.

NEEDLES AND PINS.
Report. — Commended for the excellent quality and fitness of the exhibited products.

403. Henry Millward & Sons, Redditch, England.

NEEDLES.

Report, — All kinds of needles, and similar articles, of first-rate quality and fine work-
manship.

404. David Evans, Redditch, England.

NEEDLES.

Report. — Sewing needles of various sizes and kinds, including sewing-machine needles,
showing the various stages of manufacture from the original steel wire to the finished prod-
uct. An instructive exhibit of products of standard excellence.

345

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^o REPORTS ON AWARDS.

405. James Smith ft Son, Astwood Bank, near Redditch, England.

HAND-SEWING NEEDLES.
Report, — Large exhibit of hand-sewing needles, which are of excellent finish, very well
tempered, and elastic, the points sharp and well tapered. Commended for quality, skill,
and fitness in use.

406. Naz, Kuhn, & Silberman, Philadelphia, Pa., U. ^.

TOBACCX) PIPES.

Report, — ^Tobacco pipes nicely carved on wood, good finish and domestic work. Com-
mended for quality, design, and style.

407. Fred. Julius Kaldenberg, New York, N. Y., U. S.

PIPES OF MEERSCHAUM AND AMBER.

Report, — Commended for great perfection in style, superior workmanship, and introduc-
tion of a new domestic industry.

408. Wm. Demuth A Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

BRIER AND APPLE WOOD PIPES.
Report, — Commended for popular style and cheapness.

409. Bernstein Brothers, Ostrolenka, Lomza, Russia.

AMBER JEWELRY AND SMOKERS* ARTICLES.

Report. — Commended for very good finish, fine material, and reasonable prices.

410. Baudier, Ulbrich, ft Co., Paris, France.

MEERSCHAUM AND BRIER WOOD PIPES.

Report, — Commended for very popular style, good finbh, and first-rate materiaL

411. Widow Hasslauer ft de Champeaux, Givet, France.

CELEBRATED GAMBIER CLAY PIPES.

Report, — Conmiended for a complete assortment, very popular style, excellent quality, and
good material.

412. Qebhard Ott, Nuremberg, Germany.

BRIER WOOD PIPES.

if^or^.— Commended for excellent style and finish, great variety of shapes, and moderate
prices.

413. Arnold Trebitsch, Vienna, Austria.

SMOKERS' ARTICLES.
Report, — Exhibit of smokers' articles, in imitation of meerschaum and amber. Com-
mended for great perfection, good imitation, extraordinary cheapness.

414. Franz Heiss, Vienna, Austria.

SMOKERS' ARTICLES, IN GENUINE MEERSCHAUM AND AMBER.

Report. — An immense assortment of patterns, very finely carved. Commended for good
style, quality, workmanship, and cheapness.

346

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GROUP X, 71

415. Hermann Kemperling, Vienna, Austria.

SMOKERS' ARTICLES, OF CHERRY WOOD.

Report, — Commended for good qualities of work, very low prices, and large and hand-
some variety.

4i(>. P. Qoedwaagen, Gouda, Netherlands.

CLAY PIPES.

Report, — Gay pipes in a very large assortment, good material, popular style, very cheap.

417. F. Armstrong, Bridgeport, Conn., U. S.

DUPLEX VENTILATED METALUC GARTERS AND ARMLETS.

i?^r/.-r-Commended for novelty of patterns and durability.

418. Independent Comb Co., Wappinger Falls, N. Y., U. 8.

LADIES' HORN AND RUBBER COMBS, DRESSING COMBS, PIPE STEMS, AND BITS.

Report. — Commended for skill and workmanship, and especially for variety of style of
rubber pipe stems and for cheapness.

419. S. Harris ft Sons' Manufacturing Co., Clinton, Mass., U. S.

HORN COMBS.

Report, — Commended for large variety and general good finish.

420. W. H. Noyes, Newburyport, Mass., U. S.

HAND-MADE HORN COMBS AND BARBERS' DRESSING COMBS.

^<^w/.— Commended for quality and fitness.

421. J. S. Adams ft Co., Providence, R. I., U. S.

TORTOISE-SHELL JEWELRY AND COMBS.

Report, — Commended for good design and finish and tasteful style of workmanship.

422. Henry Carlisle ft Son, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

TORTOISE-SHELL AND HORN COMBS.

Report, — Commended for superior fitness and workmanship, especially in the careful
selection of material.

423. Pratt, Read, ft Co., Deep River, Conn., U. S.

IVORY COMBS.

Report, — Commended for superior excellence of work and finish, and for general adap-
tation to intended use.

424. D. S. Spaulding, Mansfield, Mass., U. S.

TORTOISE-SHELL JEWELRY, BACK-COMBS, AND FANCY GOODS.

Report. — ^Excels especially in belts and necklaces. Commended for style and finish.

347

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72 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

425. Celluloid Manufacturing Co., Newark, N. J., U. 8.

TOILET brushes; JEWELRY MADE FROM CELLULOID.

Report, — Commended for novelty of material used, and very fine finish.

426. Joslin Palmer ft Williams, New York, N. Y., U. S.

HORN JEWELRY.

Report, — Commended for taste in design and general excellence of finish.

427. Lewisohn Brothers, New York, N. Y., U. S.

HUMAN HAIR.
Report, — A fine exhibit, excellently prepared, showing skill and workmanship.

428. Sarah E. Bonney, Sterling, Mass., U. S.

FEATHER FANS.

Report, — Commended for originality, good taste and finish, and fine workmanship.

429. Fred. W. Ansley, St. Augustine, Fla., U. S.

JEWELRY OF NATIVE FLORIDA MATERIAL, AND ESPEaALLY OF THE SEA BEAN AND OF
ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS MADE OF FEATHERS.

Report, — The flowers are very tastefully variegated in colors and shades. Commended
for skill and fitness.

430. Emil W. Moutoux, New York, N. Y., U. 8.

HAIR PICTURES AND DEVICES FOR BREASTPINS, OF ORNAMENTAL DESIGN AND TASTEFUL

STYLE.

Report, — Conmiended for skill, taste, and workmanship.

431. F. Qrote & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

CARVED AND TURNED IVORY FOR TOILET AND TRAVEUNG l^E.
Report, — Commended for fitness and workmanship, especially for superior quality of
billiard balls.

432. J. S. Cummings & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SILK NECKWEAR.

Report, — Commended for variety in design, quality of material, and good workmanship.

433. Harriet F. Bailey, Walworth, Wisconsin, U. S.

ORNAMENTAL PAPER CUTTING.

Report, — Commended for beauty of design and perfection of workmanship; worthy of
special mention for the artistic ability exhibited.

348

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GROUP X, 'Ji

434. Emil Wahl, PhUadelphia, Pa., U. S.

GREAT VARIETY OF FANCY BONE WORK, IN CROCHET NEEDLES AND BUTTONS.
Report, — Commended in that the specialty of buttons for common use are of good qual-
ity and at very low prices.

435. National Suspender Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

SUSPENDERS.

Report, — Commended for originality in the production of several designs upon one ma-
chine at once; of good quality and workmanship.

436. A. L. Wniis, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

ICE CREEPER AND SANDAL COMBINED.

Report. — ^Attachment for the shoes, to be used in walking upon ice ; highly commended
for safety and utility.

437. Charles Jeffreys, London, England.

SHOW CASES AND JEWELRY BOXES.

Report, — I. Dust-excluding show cases.

2. Velvet-lined and covered jewelry boxes to accompany articles sold.

3. Cases for shop display.

All of convenient and tasteful devices, admirably suited to the purposes intended.

438. Welsh, Margetson, ft Co., London, England.

SCARFS AND NECKTIES.

Report, — Commended for variety, good quality, and good work.

439. Crown Perfumery Co., London, England.

BUFFALO HORN COMBS.

Report, — Commended for high degree of excellence in quality, style, and general finish.

440. J. Johnson ft Co., London, England.

SHELL BOXES.

Report, — ^A good variety of shell boxes, in a very tasteful and new style, and in the very
perfect way of preparing sheik. Commended for the cheapness of goods.

441. Miss Lizzie Farquharson, Whitby, Canada.

PAINTING ON VELVET, DESIGNS FOR PAINTING.

Report, — Commended for artistic taste and skill in designs.

442. Henry Steiner, Adelaide, South Australia, Australia.

SILVER-MOUNTED EMU VASES AND ORNAMENTS.

Report. — Silver-mounted emu vases and ornaments of good make and original taste,
although damaged by shipwreck. Commended for taste and originality.

349

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74 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

443. Ford Brothers, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

PITH SUNSHADES FOR HORSES.

Report. — ^The pith sunshades for horses are of a very useful, original, and practical form
to protect horses from the heat of the sun. Commended for the originality and utility of
this improvement.

444. Mrs. Young, Hawaii.

WREATH OF MOSSES AND SHELLS.

Report, — A wreath of mosses and shells, of fine execution, taste, and workmanship.

445. Augustus Stroem, St. Petersburg, Russia.

FRAMES FOR PHOTOGRAPHS AND BRONZE MIRRORS.

Report. — Commended for very fine work, tasteful execution, and excellent material.

446. E. Cliray, Paris, France.

FANCY TORTOISE-SHELL WARE, GLOVE BOXES AND TOILET ADORNMENTS.
Report. — Commended for first-rate material, taste, and workmanship.

447. H. Didout ft Son, Paris, France.

CLASPS FOR POCKET BOOKS, PURSES, AND CIGAR CASES.

Report, — Great variety ; well made ; good adaptation ; extraordinary cheapness.

448. Alexandre, Paris, France.

FANS.

Report, — ^A nice display of fans, of the most elegant style, in ivory, shell, and tortoise-
shell, with very fine pictures on silk. Commended for taste, fine finish, and skill.

449. V. C. Voisin, Paris, France.

CRAVAT CLASPS AND PINS OF EVERY SIZE.

Report, — Commended for great variety, good adaptation, fitness, skill, and cheapness.

450. F. Qirondeau, Paris, France.

FANCY BRONZE BOXES, WITH ENAMEL.

Report. — Commended for great variety, tasteful design and color, elegant style, .and
very moderate prices.

451. Alexis Musset ft Co., Paris, France.

WIGS AND DISPLAY OF HUMAN HAIR IN VARIOUS COLORS
Report. — Well made ; fine workmanship, and good colors.

452. Association for Women's Work, Kijroto, Japan.

VARIETY OF WOMEN'S WORK.

Report. — ^This association, having been in existence but a few years, is commended for
having admirably succeeded in producing very good work.

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GROUP X. 75

453. First Japanese Manufacturing and Trading Co., Tokio, Japan.

CIGAR AND CARD CASES, AND MATCH BOXES.

Report, — Commended for fine workmanship, elegant finish, zxiA comparatively cheap
prices.

454. Princess Nabeschima, Yeddo, Japan.

BOX.

Report. — ^A beautiful box, partly woven, partly worked; colors handsomely blended;
fine workmanship ; very good taste.

455. Ch. Minoda, Tokio, Japan.

BOXES, BOOKCASES, FANS, AND PIPES.

Report. — Commended for fine workmanship and elegant finish in wooden work and
shell articles.

456. S. Mochiami & Co., Kijroto, Japan.

FANS OF IVORY, WOOD, AND SHELL, WITH VERY FINE PICTURES.
Report. — Commended for elegant style, skill, and workmanship.

457. Kimura & Sumu, Kij^to, Japan.

FANS.
Report. — Embroidering in elegant style, and pictures for fans, of first-rate execution.
Commended for high skill, and novelty.

458. Ho. A. Ching, Canton, China.

CARVED IVORY FANS.

Report. — A nice display of carved ivory fans. Commended for exquisite quality, fine
carvings, and low prices.

459. Leen Shing, Canton, China.

FANS.

Report. — Fans, lacquered wood, and ivory, both of a first-rate finish, taste, and originality.

460. Yut Shing, Canton, China.

LACQUERED FANS.

Report. — Lacquered wooden fans of the most elegant style and finest lacquer. Com-
mended for high workmanship and fine finish.

461. Pantaleon de la Pefta, Madrid, Spain.

HUMAN HAIR AND WIGS.

Report. — Commended for fine execution, good material, and great skill.

462. Massaguer & Lledo, Barcelona, Spain.

PAPER AND SILK FANS IN EVERY QUALITY AND STYLE.
Report. — Medium quality of good workmanship and at low prices.

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463. Alejandro Sans, Valencia, Spain.

FANS OF PAPER AND WOOD.

Report.— \ try popular style; well finished; extraordinary cheapne

464. Antonia Salvi & Son, Barcelona, Spain.

DRESS COMBS OF SHELL, HORN, AND BUFFALO.

Report, — Very well made, good material, fine workmanship.

465. S. W. Dabney, Fayal, Axores Islands.

PICTURE FROM PITH OF FIG-TREE.

Report. — Commended for elegant design and first-rate workmanship.

466. N. Bourgeois, Buenos A3rres, Argentine Republic.

HAIR PICTURE AND CHAINS MADE FROM HUMAN HAIR.

Report, — Hair picture and chains made from human hair, well finished. Commended
for good taste and workmanship.

467. Luigi Olivieri, Venice, Italy.

FANCY ARTICLES.

neport, — Fancy articles in mosaic, bonbonniires, vases ; also necklaces and bracelets from
blown and worked glass, shell jewelry of splendid finish. Commended for good taste and
cheapness.

468. Mariano Labriola, Naples, Italy.

TORTOISE-SHELL WORKS.

Report, — Tortoise-shell works in an excellent style. Commended for first-rate material
and workmanship, exquisite taste, and finish.

469. Schlenk & Lutxenberger, Nuremberg, Qermany.

COMBS, HORN AND IMITATION OF TORTOISE-SHELL.

Report, — Commended for very good finish and very low prices.

470. Gottfried Probst, Nuremberg, Qermany.

COMBS OF BUFFALO-HORN AND IMITATION SHELL.

Report, — Commended for good workmanship, fine shapes, and cheapness.

471. Jean Schlegel, Nuremberg, Qermany.

ARTICLES OF TORTOISE-SHELL INLAID WITH GOLD.

Report, — Commended for high finish, novelty, and fine workmanship.

472. Heinr. Ad. Mejrer, Hamburg, Qermany.

IVORY GOODS.

Report, — Commended for perfection in carving and finish, excellent material, and supe-
rior workmanship.

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473. Adalbert Hawsky, Leipsic, Qennany.

PAPER BALLOONS AND LANTERNS FOR ILLUMINATIONS.

Report, — Commended for large variety, tasteful patterns, and cheapness.

474. M. Krauliz, Vienna, Austria.

FRAMES FOR PHOTOGRAPHIC CARDS.

Report. — Commended for large variety, tasteful patterns, and very cheap prices.

475. Clemens Lux, Vienna, Austria.

FANCY BRONZE GOODS.

Report. — Commended for the fine taste of plain goods of an excellent finish.

476. Franz Berg^ann, Vienna, Austria.

BRONZE ARTICLES.

Report. — Commended for high finish, great variety, and good taste.

477. B. Heller's Sons, Yeplitz, Austria.

BRONZE AND BONE JEWELRY.

Report. — A large assortment of patterns, all of good quality and new style.

478. John Kuzel & C. Jankowsky, Vienna, Austria.

TURNERS' ARTICLES (WOOD MOUNTED WITH BRONZE).

Report. — A nice display of various patterns for different uses. Commended for good
style, novelty, fine workmanship, and cheapness.

479. John Umann, Tiefenbach, Austria.

PAPER WEIGHTS AND INKSTANDS, MADE FROM CRYSTAL GLASS.

Report. — Commended for excellent quality, fine workmanship, and low prices.

480. Oustav Lerl ft Sons, Vienna, Austria.

BRONZE JEWELRY (ROCOCO WITH STONES).

Report, — Commended for fine workmanship, good patterns, and novelty.

481. John Zekert, Meistersdorf, Austria.

CRYSTAL GLASSWARE, MOUNTED WITH BRONZE.

Report. — Crystal glassware, mounted with bronze. Commended for superior taste, ex-
traordinary cheapness, and first-rate workmanship.

482. Franz Wagner. Meistersdorf, Austria.

CRYSTAL GLASS AND BRONZE WARE.

Report. — Crystal glass and bronze ware of the highest taste and finest finish.
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483. Josef Osterritter, Viexma, Austria.

FANS.

Report. — Fans of shell, tortoise-shell, ivory, and leather, with and without feathers.
Commended for fine taste, fine combination, first-rate material, and workmanship ; also low
prices.

484. Qeorge Danberger, Vienna, Austria.

BRONZE.

Report, — Bronze fancy articles in great variety, style, and cheapness.

485. A. F. Bechmann, Vienna, Austria.

FANCY BRONZE WARE.

Report. — Fancy bronze ware of the highest style. Commended for very fine taste, hand-
some enamel, splendid workmanship, and finish.

486. Franx Beihl, Vienna, Austria.

BRONZE FANCY GOODS.

Report. — Bronze fancy goods in various patterns. Commended for fair style and cheap-

487. Josef Frank, Vienna, Austria.

BRONZE WARE.

Report. — Bronze ware of nice design, tasteful variety, and at very moderate prices.

488. Dziedzinski ft Hanusch, Vienna, Austria.

BRONZE GOODS.

Report. — Commended for superior style, finest workmanship, and excellent taste, and for
well-selected materials.

489. Anton Bohm, Vienna, Austria.

BRONZE WARE.

Report. — Bronze ware in religious styles. Commended for tasteful execution, good de-
sign, and finish.

490. Johann Bambula, Vienna, Austria.

FRAMES FOR FANCY LEATHER GOODS.

Report. — Frames for fancy leather goods. Commended for excellent make, handsome
patterns, novelty, and cheapness.

491. L. Schutte, Vienna, Austria.

ARTICLES OF TORTOISE-SHELL.

Report. — Articles of tortoise-shell, with boxes, medallions, sleeve buttons, etc. Commended
for very good finish and first-rate material and style.

492. F. J. Berg, Qoteberg, Sweden.

HUMAN HAIR WORK IN WIGS.

Report. — Human hair work in wigs. Commended for splendid finish, fine material, and
elegant workmanship.

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GROUP X. 79

493. Alma Nilsson, Landskrona, Sweden.

JEWELRY MADE FROM FISH SCALES.

Report, — ^Jewelry made from fish scales, of a splendid finish, fine workmanship, and good

taste.

494. Ed. S. Mawson ft Son, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SEAL SACKS, CAPS, GAUNTLETS, GLOVES, ETC.

Report, — Commended for good display, fitness, and elegance of pattern.

495. Durgee ft Hallet, Rahway, N. J., U. S.

RAW, PICKED, DRESSED, AND DOMESTIC DYED SEAL FURS.

Report. — Commended for general skill and utility.

496. W. H. ft R. Burnett, Newark, N. J., U. S.

FURS AND OPERA CLOAKS.

Report. — Commended for good patterns, rich variety, and good material.

497. F. B0088 ft Brother, New York, N. Y., U. S.

FANCY FUR ROBES AND VELVET SACK.
Report. — A great and magnificent variety of fancy fur robes, made from white fox, black
bear, natural beaver, plucked, and red fox; also a fine velvet sack lined with royal ermine
and trimmed with chinchilla; Alaska seal sack, and Shetland seal sack, with sea-otter trim-
mings; hats, caps, gloves, and gauntlets, all fitted up in a very tasteful style, and well sewed.
Commended for taste, good quality, and excellence in fitness.

498. Otto Kaehler, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

STUFFED ANIMALS, AND RAW AND DRESSED SKINS.

Report, — A good set of stufied animals, raw and dressed skins, and fur robes ; also a new
l>attcm of dusters made from tails, and a very nice pattern of muffs for ladies, with crossed
compartments able to contain all the small objects necessary to a lady ; elegant and service-
able.

499. Geo. C. TreadwcU ft Co., Albany, N. Y., U. S.

SEALSKINS.
Report. — A very important variety of sealskins, showing the perfection attained in pluck-
ing and dyeing the raw seal furs, and makes a domestic industry of these heretofore im-
ported furs. Commended for superior workmanship and quality.

500. J. A. Sumbach ft Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

LADIES* FINE FURS.

Report. — A good display of Russian sable, silvered fox, cross fox, and sealskin. Com-
mended for great variety, elegant style, and fine workmanship.

501. Re3molds ft V31kel, Montreal, Canada.

WOLF ROBES AND RUGS.

Report. — ^Very fair wolf robes and rugs, ladies* musk-rat pelerines, caps, muflfe, ganntleta,
Indian buckskin leggings and hunting overcoats, all in great and handsome variety. Com-
mended for quality and fitness for use.

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502. Hudson Bay Co., Montreal, Canada.

RAW FURS AND ESQUIMAUX SEALSKIN COAT.
Report. — A fine display of raw furs, white bear, brown and black bear, mink, lynx, white,
gray, and blue wolf, beautiful red, silver, and croi» fox, and other fine varieties of skins.
There is to be mentioned also a very fair Esquimaux sealskin coat, and dressed reindeer
skins. Commended for great variety and superior quality of furs.

503. Thibault, Lanthier, & Co., Montreal, Canada.

FURS, ERMINE, AND MUFFS.
Report. — Two splendid cases of furs, ermine mufis, silk muffs with trimmings of ermine,
Northshore otter coat for gentlemen, South Sea seal sacks. Northern Canada mink sacks,
blue and silver raccoon, ladies* velvet bonnets, grebe and silver- pointed sea-otter mufi&, silk
opera cloak lined with royal ermine, and a beautiful variety of other skins. Commended
for quality, taste, cheapness, and superior workmanship.

504. C. Kaiser & Son, Halifax, Canada.

NATURAL RACCOON AND BLACK-BEAR ROBES.

Report. — Splendid natural raccoon and black-bear robes, red, blue, and cross fox skins,
musk-rat and Canada mink muffs and boas, and sealskin sacks. Commended for good
patterns and fine workmanship.

505. Miss Kate Farrell, Toronto, Ontario, Canada.

CARRIAGE RUG OF WORSTED YARN.

Report. — Commended for skill and taste, both in color and design.

506. Hector Evelyn Liardet, Wellington, New Zealand.

FEATHER FURS.
Report. — A variety of ladies' muffs, tippets, and cuffs, made from the skins of white,
mottled, gray, and brown albatross, the white-back ganol, and the gray, green, and speckled
cormorant. Commended for specialty, novelty, good work, durability, and cheapness.

507. Commissioners for Victoria, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

FURS.
Report. — Plain rugs made from skins of native animals, viz., the bear or sloth, opossum,
and cat ; also fancy rugs of different kinds of skins, in tasteful designs, well made, and
cheap.

508. P. A. Jennings, Sydney, New South Wales, Australia.

FURS.
Report. — His exhibit consists of a muff, collarette, and pair of cuffs, very neatly made
from the skins of the platypus ; also two stuffed platypus skins, male and female. Com-
mended for specialty, novelty, and good workmanship.

509. Wcdcmikof & Mikhailof, St. Petersburg, Russia.

FUR AND TRIMMINGS MANUFACTURED INTO LADIES* CLOAKS.

Report. — A handsome display of fur and trimmings manufactured into ladies* cloaks ;
red and velvet costumes in Russian style, trimmed with sable; opera cloak of blue velvet,
lined and trimmed with white Thibet kid fur, of a splendid effect. Commended for good
material, tasteful patterns, and elegance in style

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GROUP X. 8 1

510. Maurice Gruenwald, Riga, Russia.

FURS.
Report. — A very fine collection of silver and black fox raw skins; dressed furs of sable,
ermine, sealskin, lynx, white, black, and gray Astrakan, Angora, Thibet, marten, brown
and black bear; silver musk-lined furs, in red and blue fox, hare, and stjuirrel; seal hunt-
ing-jackets, muffs, caps, gloves; waistcoats of superior quality .and at reasonable prices.
Commended for the beautiful selection and superior workmanship.

511. Odnoushefsky & Sons, St. Petersburg, Russia.

FURS.
Report. — A handsome exhibit of muffs, collars, and gorgettes, in sable, stone-marten,
and musk-rat ; fine robes in white Thibet skins of the most elegant effect ; black sable skins ;
also a carpet composed of a great variety of furs. Commended for skill and quality.

512. Revillon Brothers, Paris, France.

FURS MADE INTO CLOTHING.

Report. — An elegant and fine display of fur trimmings and of furs manufactured into
clothing. There are some seal cloaks, trimmed with silvered beaver ; opera cloaks lined
with red fox belly and trimmed with beaver ; velvet cloaks lined with silk and trimmed
with chinchilla; jackets and paletots for ladies and gentlemen, trimmed with Russian sable,
silver and fox, of the most magnificent style ; also muffs and boas in chinchilla, ermine,
grebe, mink, skunk, and wolverine. Commended for quality, style, and elegance in the
patterns.

513. A. S. Rustad, Drammen, Norway.

FURS.

Report. — His exhibit consists of carpels of white polar bear, black bear, and eider down,
trimmed with eider heads ; a lady's sack of white rabbit ; a lady's cloth sack, with white
kid lining and black Astrakan trinmiing; a man's wolf-skin coat; and a pair of North
Sea sealskin boots, all of fair workmanship and moderate prices ; also dressed red fox,
lynx, badger, otter, and cat lynx, all of good quality.

514. C. Brandt, Bergen, Norway.

FURS.

Report. — A large assortment of dressed furs, mostly native, consisting of carpels in polar
bear, grizzly bear, black bear, lynx, gray wolf, red, cross, and white fox, and reindeer; a
beautiful carpet of loon skins, and another of bird skins ; also eider-down carpets, trimmed
with eider-ducks* heads, a dressed loon skin, white bear skins, and ten otter skins, all of
good workmanship and at fair prices, forming a good exhibit.

515. P. N. Bergstrom, Stockholm, Sweden.

FURS.

Report. — A very large stock of dressed native furs ; a good variety of men's coats, caps,
boots, women's fur mantles, sacks, muffs, boas, and bonnets ; all of good workmanship
and design, at reasonable prices; forming together an excellent exhibit.

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82 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

516. D. Forsell & Co., Stockholm, Sweden.

FURS.

Report. — An immense stock and great variety of dressed native furs of excellent
quality; men*s fur clothing, consisting of caps, coats, gloves, gauntlets, etc.; women's
sacks, hoods, muffs, and boas, of varied material and good workmanship, at reasonable
prices; also a parior carpet, 14 X 11 ^eet, in many sorts of furs, of exquisite artistic de-
sign and good workmanship; forming in the whole a standard collection.

517. Crouch & Fitzgerald, New York, N. Y., U. S.

TRUNKS.

Report, — Ladies' traveling trunk of excellent construction and design.

518. J. Lagowitz & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

TRUNKS AND BAGS.

Report. — Commended for large assortment, good workmanship, and moderate cost.

519. J. C. GUlmore & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

TRUNKS.

Report. — Conmiendcd for high degree of excellence in the general construction, and
useful improvement in the rubber comer protectors.

520. J. C. Hacker, New York, N. Y., U. S.

FANCY LEATHER WORK.

Report. — Commended for a high degree of excellence in general finish.

521. J. Fourestier Simpson, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

PATENT TRUNK FASTENER AND LOCK COMBINED.
Report. — Commended for novelty, utility, and low cost.

522. Edward Simon & Brothers, Newark, N. J., U. S.

TRUNKS AND BAGS.
Report. — Commended for good quality and workmanship, in view of price.

523. T. B. Peddle & Co., Newark, N. J., U. S.

TRUNKS, VALTSF3, BAGS, AND STRAPS.

Report. — Commended for a large and varied exhibit, excellent style, and workmanship.

524. C. F. Rumpp, PhUadelphia, Pa., U. S.

FANCY LEATHER WORK.

Report. — A very nice and tasteful collection of home-made patterns in purses, wallets,
cigar cases, pocket books, etc., at very reasonable prices. Commended for style of pattern
and workmanship.

525. Q. F. Kolb & Son, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

CASES FOR JEWELRY AND SILVER WARE.

Report. — Commended for well-made and good patterns, double hinge as a usefixl
improvement, workmanship, utility, and novelty.

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GROUP X. 83

526. H. H. Peacock, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

FANCY CASES OF MOROCCO, VELVET, AND WOOD MARQUETRY.
Report, — Commended for workmanship, quality, and Btness.

527. Richard Hoe ft Sons, London, England.

PORTMANTEAUS, HAT-CASES, AND BAGS.

Report, — ^The portmanteaus, hat-cases, and bags are very well made, in a very practical
form, and good finish. Commended for substantial material and workmanship.

528. Mrs. Constant, Halifax, Nova Scotia.

LEATHER WORK FOR MIRROR-FRAME.

Report, — Commended for excellence in tasteful design and great skill in execution.

529. Mrs. Neville, Ottawa, Canada.

LEATHER WORK.

Report, — Commended for artistic skill and taste in design and execution.

530. W. E. Clarke, Toronto, Ontario, Canada.

TRUNKS, VALISES, BAGS OP CALF LEATHER AND WOOD, WITH NICKELED IRON BUCKLES.

Report, — Commended for fitness and quality as well as cheapness ; abo for fine work-
manship and good appearance.

531. R. Zimmermann, Moscow, Russia.

TRUNKS AND VALISES.

Report, — Conmiended for practicability in design and excellence in finish.

532. William Nissen, St. Petersburg, Russia.

TRUNKS AND VAUSES.

Report, — Commended for large and varied assortment of substantial make and excellence
of design.

533. William Nissen, St. Petersburg, Russia.

LEATHER OVERCOAT.

Report. — Leather overcoat of fine texture, softness, hair-side out, glossy and black,
sleeves and pockets lined with Italian cloth, body and skirts of fine heavy flannel. The
whole is finely made, of most thorough sewing, in superior style as a water-proof garment.
Commended for strength, durability, flexibility, and water-proof quality.

534. Lamarre, Paris, France.

FANCY GOODS IN LEATHER AND TORTOISE-SHELL; ALBUMS, ETC.

Report, — Commended for good variety of patterns, fine finish, and elegant taste.

535. W. Walcker, Paris, France.

TRUNKS, VAUSES, TOILET BOXES, AND TRAVELING ARTICLES.
Report, — Commended for great variety, good adaptation, and novelty.

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536. J086 d'Axevedo David, Oporto, Portugal.

LEATHER-COVERED WOODEN TRUNKS.
i?<;^/<^.— Commended for very strong mak/^ and cheapness.

537. Fran9oi8 Vit6, Berlin, Qermany.

FANCY LEATHER GOODS.

Report, — Commended as well finished and at very low prices.

538. Michael Seewald, Vienna, Austria.

LEATHER INKSTAND AND CANDLESTICKS.

Report, — Leather inkstand and candlesticks; manufactured on a large scale. Com-
mended for cheapness, novelty, and good finish.

539. Rodeck Brothers, Vienna, Austria.

FANCY LEATHER GOODS.

Report, — A large variety of patterns, every piece nicely finished. Commended for great
novelty in design and fine workmanship.

540. Eugenic Mattaldi, Buenos Ajrres, Argentine Republic.

A TRUNK REPRESENTING A COUCH, A DINING-TABLE, A WRITING-DESK, AND A TOILET-
TABLE.

Report. — A trunk representing a couch, a dining-table, a writing-desk, and a toilet-table;
very ingenious and useful. Commended for originality.

541. Giintsche ft Schroeder, Buenos Ajrres, Argentine Republic.

TRUNKS AND VALISES OF LEATHER.

Report. — ^Trunks and valises of leather. Commended for good and strong make, durable
and fine workmanship, and cheapness.

542. Isaac Bedichimer, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

GOLD AND SILVER EMBLEMS.

Report, — Commended for the beauty of design, the carefulness in finish, and adaptation
to the purposes required.

543. W. H. Horstmann ft Sons, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

FLAGS, INSIGNIA, AND EMBLEMS.

Report, — Commended for the excellence of workmanship, variety of exhibit, and correct-
ness in design. '

544. Schuyler, Hartley, ft Graham, New York, N. Y., U. S.

SOCIETY GOODS.

Report, — Commended for superior workmanship, and adaptation for special occasions
and presentations.

545. James A. Haas ft Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

METALLIC EMBLEMS.

Report, — Commended for character of finish and appropriate designs.

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GROUP X. 85

546. J. H. WUson, PhUadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SOCIETY SWORDS, CAPS, AND REGALIA.
Report, — Commended for workmanship and variety.

547. Clarence A. Hart, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

PAINTED SILK BANNERS AND PAPER FRINGE.

Report, — Commended for the adaptation to the purposes designed, and the economy in
their production.

548. J. P. Reynolds & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

ESCUTCHEONS FOR MILITARY AND NAVAL SERVICE.

Report, — This exhibit consists of highly ornate decorated designs of shields, on which,
by a most ingenious device, any soldier may have recorded, for permanent preservation,
his whole military record in very small space.

Commended for originality, ingenuity, and admirable adaptation to the purpose for which
it is designed.

549. John C. Meyer, New Orleans, La., U. S.

BADGES AND INSIGNIA FOR SOCIETIES.

Report. — Commended for taste in design and excellence in workmanship.

550. George P. Pilling, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SOCIETY JEWELS.

Report. — Commended for good workmanship, variety, and finish.

551. M. C. Lilly & Co., Columbus, Ohio, U. S.

MASONIC GOODS AND SOCIETY SUPPLIES.

Report. — Commended for the beauty of design in the embroidery, and skill in workman*
ship.

552. Camille Piton, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

TROPHIES REPRESENTING AMERICA, EUROPE, ASIA, AND AFRICA.

Report. — Commended for artistic talent displayed in the arrangement of colors, and har-
mony in variety, beauty in design, and skill in execution.

553. Mayaud Brothers, Paris, France.

MEDALS AND ORNAMENT.
Report. — A great variety of religious articles, rosaries, and crucifixes; four thousand dif-
ferent patterns, ranging from the commonest to the finest styles. Commended for fitness,
cheapness, and workmanship.

554. National Museum of Egypt, Cairo, Egypt.

NATIONAL COSTUMES.

Report. — A collective exhibit of varioiLS articles worn in Egypt, consisting of a crown of
■•braided gold, jackets, vest, caps, shawls, and dress scarfs in silk richly embroidered; Arab
dress in brown wove silk embroidery; the dress worn by the Archbishop of Abyssinia, a
very curious, costly, and rare garment, seldom to be obtained, and held in great esteem as
a national vestment; a cap made by King Meteza of Ouganda with his own hands, and
presented by him to the Egyptian Government.

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555. His Highness Sidi Mohammed Essadole (Bey of Tunis).

NATIONAL COSTUMES.

Report, — A very large and rare collection of costly costumes of the country, presenting
the most elaborate workmanship^nd finish; bridal and female costumes; tribal coats; boys*
suits of velvet and gold; men's costumes, elaborately finished with silver braid; the common
people's capote and burnouse ; also the burnouse and hood worn by the wealthy classes.
Commended for the variety of the exhibit and elaborate workmanship displayed.

556. Haim Vidal & Co., Constantinople, Turkey.

NATIONAL TURKISH COSTUMES.

Report, — An exhibit of rare and costly Turkish costumes, consisting of richly embroidered
sacks, coats, and vests; the holiday costumes of the Sultan's guards, richly embroidered
with gold on crimson velvet; ladies' dresses of silk, elaborately embroidered alike on both
sides with gold embroidery; the native burnouse, also richly embroidered with gold on
silk ground; silk velvet and cashmere scarfs of silk and gold capuchin for the neck; and
opera head covers of fine cashmere. Commended for the large and elaborate display and
fine finish of the goods.

557. Royal Swedish Commission, Stockholm, Sweden.
peasants' costumes.
Report, — A collective exhibit of eight groups of peasants in their national costumes, pre-
senting the different phases of society in their native apparel. The execution of these de-
mands a special note, being very life-like, instructive, and attractive. Commended for the
execution, variety, and design.

558. William Gram, Christiania, Norway.
national costumes and figures.
Report, — These groups are well executed, and present the peculiar habits, manners, and
dress of the Laplander in the most perfect manner, and are instructive, historical, and use-
ful for educational purposes. Commended for execution and design.

559. H. C. Jones & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.
brush blocks.
Report. — Commended for an improved method in boring, resulting in a redaction of

cost.

560. Charles P. Sellers, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

corn brooms and whisks.
Report, — Commended for good substantial form, excellence of material, and workman-
ship.

561. C. T. Raynolds & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

artists' pencils and brushes.
Report. — Commended for quality, fitness, and workmanship.

562. Miles Brothers & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

VARIEIY OF brushes AND PENCILS.

Report, — Commended as well made and of good api)earance; shaving brushes espeaally
for quality, and full adaptation for the purposes intended.

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GROUP X. 87

563. E. Clinton & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

BRUSHES AND PENCILS.
Report, — Commended for superior quality, skill, and fitness. He excels in every line
of brushes and pencils, and seems to be able to compete with any other country.

564. George Barton, Kent, & Co., London, England.

BRUSHES AND IVORY WORK.

Report, — Brushes and ivory work of very fine finish, especially the hair brushes. Com-
mended for fine workmanship and good taste.

565. Q. R. Qrind, London, Ontario, Canada.

CORN BROOMS AND WHISKS.

Report, — Commended for excellent quality, great variety, very low prices, fitness, and
workmanship.

566. C. Boeck, Toronto, Ontario, Canada.

BRUSHES.
Report, — A very good set of hair and painting brushes, horse brushes, well made and
durable ; also an improvement in hair brushes, for regulating the softness and stiffness of
the brush. Commended for general quality and novelty.

567. Whitehead & Turner, Quebec, Canada.

BRUSHES OF ALL KINDS.
Report. — Commended for excellent quality and moderate prices.

568. Deschamps, Maurey, & Co., Paris, France.

BRUSHES OF ALL KINDS.

Report. — Commended as well made, of good material, and superior fitness.

569. Pitet, Sr. & Jr., Paris, France.

PENCILS AND PAINTING BRUSHES.
Report, — A great variety, ranging from the most popular styles to the most artistic ones.
Commended for fine finish.

570. A. Dupont, Beauvais, France.

TOOTH BRUSHES.

Report. — Commended for superior fitness, durability, and cheapness.

571. F. Loonen, Paris, France.

BRUSHES.

Report, — A splendid display, mounted in ivory and carved very tastefully ; a mirror of
very elegant style. Commended for good material, superior taste, and elegance in work-
manship.

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572. Antonio Raymundo de Carvalho, Lisbon, Portugal.

BRUSHES.

Report. — Commended for great variety, very tasteful and nice patterns, durability, fine
workmanship, and low prices.

573. Luigi Giacomini & Co., Trcviso, Italy.

CLOTH BRUSHES.

Report, — Cloth brushes of good workmanship, finish, and extraordinary cheapness.

574. Dionys Pruckner, Munich, Germany.

TOILET, CLOTH, AND HAT BRUSHES.

Report, — Commended for good workmanship and low prices.

575. Glendale Elastic Fabric Co., East Hampton, Mass., U. S.

WOVEN AND BRAIDED ELASTIC RUBBER FABRICS.
Report. — A large variety of goods of fine quality, style, and workmanship, with special
mention of corded edge fabrics.

576. East Hampton Rubber Thread Co., East Hampton, Mass., U. S.

INDIA RUBBER THREAD.

Report. — Commended for quality, skill, workmanship, and fitness for purpose intended.

577. New York Belting & Packing Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

EMERY VULCANITE.

Report. — Commended for originality, durability, evenness of grit and texture, and the
facility with which the form of the grinding surface may be renewed or modified.

578. New York Belting ft Packing Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

INDIA RUBBER GOODS.

Report, — The exhibit includes valve gum, packing, fibrous, and sheet used for pistons;
a great variety of hose, car springs, and carriage springs, of great homogeneity of composition
and perfection of curing. Commended for finish and high grade of merchantable excel-
lence.

579. New York Belting ft Packing Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

TEST HOSE — VULCANIZED RUBBER.

Report, — Vulcanized hose for fire-engines. The duck, which is of excellent fabric, is
saturated with carbolic acid, coated with rubber, and fashioned into tubing so as to dis-
perse the warp and filling obliquely to the axis of the hose, and to give the highest degree
of flexibility and elasticity consistent with strength. The hose is lined and coated with
rubber, smooth and of excellent composition, the whole fashioned and cured with care.
It burst under direct pressure in two experiments at four hundred and twenty-^ve pounds
and four hundred and fifty pounds. Commended for durability, flexibility, and strength.

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580. New York Belting ft Packing Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

RUBBER BELTING.
Report. — The belting is of various widths to forty-eight inches, of thickness from three
to five ply, of length to three hundred and twenty feet. In strength, as determined by
experiment under direction of Captain Albert, a three-ply three-inch belt gave way at three
thousand pounds. In adhesion, a six-inch belt with a weight of fifty pounds at either end
over a fifteen and three-quarter inch exterior diameter, smooth cast-iron fixed pulley,
slipped at seventy pounds. The thickness of the belt was three-ply, seven thirty-seconds
of an inch. Conmiended for adhesion, strength, smooth finish, and care in workmanship
and curing.

581. National Rubber Co., Providence, R. I., U. S.

INDIA RUBBER GOODS AND MANUFACTURES.

Report. — A large variety of well-made rubber goods, especially rubber shoes. Com-
mended as well made, good style, and, with regard to " Snow Excluder," for originality and
fitness for purpose intended; rubber clothing, reversible coats, commended as of good
workmanship; "flocked clothing," commended as of fine finish and original design;
" flocked piano covers," commended for originality, utility, and workmanship ; Chaflee's
perforated cellular door mats and curry combs, commended for utility and fitness for pur-
pose intended; flexible backgammon boards, inlaid with flannel, commended for origi-
nality ; nursery sheeting, commended for utility and fitness for purpose intended.

582. National Rubber Co., Providence, R. I., U. S.

BELTING.
Report. — The belting is made of fine quality of duck and composition carefully prepared
and cured. A three-inch three-ply belt, five thirty-seconds of an inch in thickness, gave
way under a strain of thirty-five hundred pounds. In adhesion, as shown by experiments
under direction of Captain Albert, a six-inch four-ply belt, seven thirty-seconds of an inch
in thickness, over a smooth cast-iron pulley of extreme diameter of fifteen and three-quarter
inches, with a weight of fifty pounds at either end, slipped with additional weight of sixty
and three-quarter pounds (the pulley being rigid) added to one side. Commended for its
strength, adhesion, finish, and care in workmanship and curing.

583. National Rubber Co., Providence, R. I., U. S.

FIRE HOSE.

Report. — Two and a half inches calibre, four-ply, cloth wound round the mandril, with
warp parallel to the axis of the hose, of smooth interior, thorough workmanship, and care-
ful curing. A section of fifty feet in length and weighing fifty-nine pounds sustained,
without bursting, a pressure of five hundred pounds. Commended for quality in compo-
sition, care in making up, and for strength.

584. National Rubber Co., Providence, R. I., U. S.

RUBBER SHOE MANUFACTURE.

Report. — The exhibit consists of a complete set of material and machinery manufactured
by William E. Kelly, of New Brunswick, New Jersey, and complement of operatives for
producing vulcanized rubber shoes, including the breaking down, cleaning, and air-cunng
of Para rubber, grinding in of composition, stamping, embossing, spreading on cloths, cut-
ting into patterns, making the shoes in green condition, and curing by heat. Commended

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REPORTS OX AWARDS.

for taste and skill as an industrial display of the most approved apparatus for exhibiting in
detail all the steps of the processes by which vulcanized rubber shoes are made, from the
crude rubber and cloth to the final curing.

585. Gutta Percha & Rubber Manufacturing Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

FIRE HOSE.

Report. — This hose is wound with duck coated with carbolized rubber composition,
with warp of the duck parallel to the axis of the hose. A section fifty feet in length, of
two and one-half inch calibre, four-ply hose, and weighing sixty -seven and one-half pounds,
burst at a pressure of four hundred and thirty-five pounds. Commended as well made,
carefully cured, and adapted to the purpose intended.

586. India Rubber Comb Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

HARD RUBBER GOODS.

Report, — A large exhibit of manufactures of fine quality, design, and workmanship, es-
pecially ten-pin balls. Commended for originality, skill, and fitness for purpose intended.

Rubber-coated calender rolls. Commended for originality, skill, and fitness for purpose
intended.

Tubes of large calibre. Commended for originality, skill, and finish.

587. Clark S. Merriman, New York, N. Y., U. S.

WATER-PROOF LIFE-SAVING DRESsl

Report, — Commended for invention, fitness for purpose intended, and utility.

588. Crane & Co., Newark, N. J., U. S.

FLEXIBLE RUBBER BITS.

Report, — Commended for utility, and fitness for purpose intended.

589. Nashawannuck Manufacturing Co., E^st Hampton, Mass., U. S.

ELASTIC RUBBER SUSPENDERS AND WEBS.

Report. — Commended for fine workmanship and neatness of patterns of suspenders and
webs.

590. Vulcanite Jewelry Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

VULCANITE JEWELRY.

Report. — Commended for good quality and workmanship.

591. Goodyear Rubber Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

RUBBER GOODS.

Report. — Commended for quality and workmanship.

592. W. B. S. Taylor, New York, N. Y., U. S.

FLEXIBLE TUBING.

Report. — Commended for invention, utility, and fitness for purpose intended.

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593. Austin G. Day, Seymour, Conn., U. S.

KERITE.

Report, — Commended for originality, economy, and cost. This exhibitor also shows a
large number of rubber-producing plants, including twenty different varieties.

594. Gossamer Rubber Clothing Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

GOSSAMER WATER- PROOF CLOTHING.

Report, — Commended for adaptation to public wants, and low cost.

595. Gutta Percha ft Rubber Manufacturing Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

VULCANIZED RUBBER GOODS.

Report. — ^The exhibit includes fibrous and sheet packing, piston packing, valve gum,
billiard cushions, four-ply belting, seven thirty-seconds of an inch thick, six inches wide,
which slipped on a closed pulley fifteen and three-quarter inches exterior diameter, under
a strain of fifty pounds at either end, upon the addition to one end of forty-eight and three-
quarter pounds ; garden and mining hose, carbolized in the composition. Commended for
quality, extent of variety, and adaptation to purpose intended.

596. Davidson Rubber Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

RUBBER GOODS AND MANUFACTURES.
Report. — A fine exhibit of soft rubber goods, including druggists', surgical, medical,
stationery, and light goods of very superior qua^ty, design, and finish, with special mention
of pure rubber mattresses of excellent design and workmanship, gloves of good style and
finish, water and sponge bags, dress shields, well fitted for purpose intended, seamless tubes,
of good quality and workmanship and not liable to split.

597. J. Dickson ft Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

ENGRAVING ON VULCANIZED RUBBER.

Report. — Commended for invention, utility, economy, and cost.

598. G. M. Mowbray, North Adams, Mass., U. S.

PURE GUTTA PERCHA FOR TRUSSES AND INSULATORS.

Report. — Well-purified gutta percha, adapted to puqwse intended.

599. New Brunswick Rubber Co., New Brunswick, N. J., U. S.

RUBBER BOOl^ AND SHOES.

Report, — Commended for excellence in form and finish, good quality, and workmanship.

600. Andrew Albright, Newark, N. J., U. S.

HARD RUBBER COATED HARNESS AND CARRIAGE TRIMMINGS.

Report. — Commended for originality and fitness for the purpose intended, fine workman*
ship, and finish.

601. J. C. Hempel, Baltimore, Md., U. S.

RUBBER DIAPER.

Report. — Commended for quality and fitness for the purpose intended.

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602. Moulded Heel Stiffening Co., Lynn, Mass., U. S.

MOULDED RUBBER COUNTERS FOR SHOES.

Report, — Commended for utility, fitness for purpose intended, and economy.

603. Simon, May, ft Co., Nottingham, England.

GORINGS, GUSSETING, AND BOOT WEBS.

Report, — Commended for a great variety of goods, of fine quality and workmanship.

604. H. Schrader, St. Petersburg, Russia.

VULCANIZED RUBBER PRODUCTS.

Report. — ^The exhibit includes belting, smooth, and of fine finish, garden hose, hemp
hose lined with rubber, and rubber speaking tubes, billiard cushions, pulleys, packing, gaskets,
and valve gum, in various forms. Commended for beautiful finish, homogeneity in composi-
tion, and for splendid curing.

605. Russian American India Rubber Co., St. Petersburg, Russia.

RUBBER GOODS AND MANUFACTtTRES.

Report, — A fine exhibit of a large variety of rubber goods, including clothing, shoes,
druggists*, medical, and surgrical goods of soft rubber. Commended for good workmanship,
quality, and design, and finish, especially for a coachman^s coat of checked cotton covered
with rubber of very fine surface and perfectly white ; also cylinder cover of soft rubber
with hard rubber surface.

606. G. Magnus ft Co., Berlin, Germany.

HARD RUBBER BILLIARD BALLS.

Report. — Commended as of excellent quality, and well fitted for purpose intended.

607. Bally ft Schmitter, Aarau, Switzerland.

ELASTIC GORING.

Report, — A large assortment of silk, cotton, and linen elastic goring, of fair quality and
low prices,

608. United States Navy Department, Washington, D. C, U. S.

UNITED STATES FLAGS AND NAVAL COSTUMES.

Report. — Commended for the elaborate display and historical value of the national flags
and pennants and naval costumes.

609. United Sutes War Department, Washington, D. C, U. S.

FLAGS AND MILITARY COSTUMF^.

Report. — Commended for the character of the workmanship, and historical value and
liberality of numerical exhibits.

610. Smithsonian Institution, National Museum, Washington, D. C, U. S.

SKINS AND FURS.

Report. — This institution, which, in a collective exhibit, shows the most complete and
systematic display of the various series and gnidcs of excellence in crude dressed with long
hairs, plucked and dyed fur seals of Alaska and South Pacific, as well as other furs.

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GROUP X, 93

We consider also as a duty to mention the names of the gentlemen who selected their
finest specimens and placed them at the service of the institution.

Among them we mention Mr. Chas. Herpich, of New York, Messrs. Treadwell & Co.,
of Albany, Mr. Bowsky, of New York, and Messrs. Renfrew & Co., of Canada.

It is very interesting to see how far this industry was brought in the United States, and,
as a show for public instruction, the Smithsonian exhibit is a true success.

6i I. The Royal School of Art Needle Work, South Kensington, London, England.

EMBROIDERY AND NEEDLE-WORK.

Report, — Commended for design and beautiful shade of colors, and for its eminent suc-
cess in showing the capabilities of needle-work as a decorative art. The embroideries from
classical and floral designs are admirably executed, and beautiful in effect. The whole
exhibit is recognized as artistic in design and faithful in execution, noble in its object, and
practical in its uses.

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SIGNING JUDGES OF GROUP X.

The figures annexed to the names of the Judges indicate the reports written by them
respectively.

Wm. O. Linthicum, I, 2, 3,4, 5, 6, 9, 10, 11, 12, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24,
25, 26, 44, 45, 56, 64, 67, 71, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89, 91,
92, 93. 94, 95, 96, 97i 98, 99» i<»» io7, 108, 118, 154, 155, 161, 318, 432, 438.

E. N. HoRSFORD, 7, 8, 14, 27, 320, 345, 377, 404, 423, 437, 533, 548, 577, 578, 579,
580, 582, 583, 584, 585, 595, 604.

M. P. Empey, 13, 506, 507, 508, 513, 514, 515, 516.

B. F. Britton, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 46, 47. 4S,
49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 57, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 65, 66, 68, 69, 70, 72, 73, 74, 90, 103.
119, 138, 141, 186, 196, 220, 221, 222, 223, 242, 243, 244, 248, 251, 252, 254, 255, 256,
257, 258, 259, 260, 261, 262, 263, 264, 265, 266, 268, 269, 270, 272, 273, 274, 287, 288,
289, 290, 291, 292, 293, 296, 297, 298, 299, 308, 310, 312, 314, 315, 316, 317, 321, 324,
326, 331, 337, 338, 344, 353, 3^7, 37 1, 372, 373, 378, 385, 389, 393, 394, 395, ^09, 419,
426, 427, 436, 439, 441, 443, 445, 461, 462, 463, 464, 505, 517, 518, 519, 520, 521, 522.
523. 527, 528, 529, 531, 532, 559, 564, 572.

DiETZ-MONNIN, 58, 120, 121, I44, I49, I50, I70, I7I, I73, I74, I75, 179, 180, 181,
182, 183, 184, 185, 187, 188, 202, 203, 204, 205, 206, 207, 208, 209, 210, 211, 212, 213,
214, 215, 219, 224, 225, 226, 227, 228, 229, 230, 231, 232, 233, 234,' 235, 236, 237, 238,
239, 240, 241, 245, 246, 247, 249, 250, 253, 267, 271, 275, 276, 277, 278, 279, 280, 281,
282, 283, 284, 294, 295, 300, 301, 302, 303, 304, 305, 306, 307, 313, 319, 322, 327, 328,

329, 332, 333, 341, 342, 343, 346, 347, 357, 35^, 359, 360, 361, 362, 363, 3^4, 3^5, 3^6,
368, 369, 370, 381, 384, 396, 397, 398, 399, 412, 413, 414, 415, 422, 425, 428, 434, 45i»
469, 470, 471, 472, 473, 474, 475, 476, 477, 478, 479, 480, 481, 482, 483, 484, 485, 486,
487, 488, 489, 490, 491, 494, 495, 496, 497, 498, 499, 500, 501, 502, 503, 504, 509, 510,
511, 512, 530, 537, 538, 539, 560, 561, 562, 563, 570, 574, 610, 611.

MODESTE KiTTARY, IOI, I02, IO4, IO5, I06, IO9, IIO, III, 112, II3, II4, II5, II6,
117, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 130, 131, 132, 133, 134, 135, 136, 137, 139,

140, 142, 143, 145, 146, 147, 148, 151, 152, 153, 156, 157, 158, 159, 160, 162, 163, 164,

165, 166, 167, 168, 169, 172, 176, 177, 178, 323, 325.

Edward Kanitz, 189, 190, 191, 192, 193, 194, 195, 197, 198, 199, 200, 201, 216, 217,
218, 285, 286, 311, 330, 334, 335, 336, 339. 340, 354, 355, 35^, 374, 375, 376, 379. 380,
382, 383, 386, 387, 388, 390, 391, 392, 400, 401, 402, 403, 405, 406, 407, 408, 410, 411,
416, 417, 418, 420, 421, 424, 429, 430, 431, 44c, 442, 444, 446, 447, 448, 449, 450, 452,
453, 454, 455, 456, 457, 458, 459, 460, 465, 466, 467, 468, 492, 493, 524, 525, 526, 534,
535, 536, 540, 541, 553, 565, 566, 567,*568, 569, 571, 573.

W. H. Chandler, 309, 348, 349, 35°, 35^, 352, 435, 575, 576, 581, 586, 587, 588, 589,
590, 591, 592, 593, 594, 596, 597, 598, 599, 600, 601, 602, 603, 605, 606, 607.

George Hewston, 433, 542, 543, 544, 545, 546, 547, 549, 550, 551, 552, 554, 555, 556,
557, 558, 608, 609.

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SUPPLEMENT TO GROUP X.

REPORTS

JUDGES ON APPEALS.

JUDGES.

John Fritz, Bethlehem, Pa.
Edward Conley, Cincinnati, Ohio.
Charles Staples, Jr., Portland, Me.
Benj. F. Britton, New York City.
H. H. Smith, Philadelphia, Pa.

Coleman Sellers, Philadelphia, Pa.
James L. Claghorn, Philadelphia, Pa.
Henry K. Oliver, Salem, Mass.
M. WiLKiNS, Harrisburg, Oregon.
S. F. Baird, Washington, D. C.

I. Lewis Fishblatt, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.
FUR robe.
Report, — Commended for a robe, of yarious colors and excellent workmanship, repre-
senting the arms of the United States.

2. Wheeler & Wilson Manufacturing Co., Bridgeport, Conn., U. S.

SEWING machine NEEDLE WORK.

Report, — Commended for a superb display of needle work executed upon the Wheeler
& Wilson sewing machine, exquisite in design and finish, frofn the lightest gauze to the
heaviest leather.

3. James Fallows ft Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

PAPER and tin toys.

Report, — Commended for economy in cost, adaptation to purpose intended, and durability.

4. F. Sachse ft Son, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.
dress shirts.
A'/^i^rf.— Conwncnded for excellence in cut and style, and meritorious in workmanship.

5. Olivia P. Flynt, Boston, Mass., U. S.

improvement in knit underwear for women and children.

Report, — An important and unique improvement, well adapted to the purpose intended.

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6. Coon ft Van Volkenburgh, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

LINEN COLLARS AND CUFFS.

Report, — Commended for excellence in style, and meritorious in construction and woric-
manship.

7. Littleton Saranac Buck Glove Co., Littleton, N. H., U. S.

BUCK CLOVES.

Report. — Commended for originality in preparation of the skins, good workmanship,
and Htness for purpose intended.

8. Mrs. J. S. Bloodgood, New York, N. Y., U. S.

AFGHANS AND CARRIAGE ROBES.

Report, — Commended for tasteful design and skillful workmanship.

9. Louis Jeannisson ft Son, Johnstown, N. Y., U. S.

GLOVES.

Report, — Commended for excellence in material, shape, and workmanship.

10. Adolf Bowsky, New York, N. Y., U. S.

DRESSED FURS.

Report, — Commended for general excellence of preparation of skins of animals for
furriers' use.

II. Mrs. Jacquemin, St. Louis, Mo., U. S.

ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS.

Report, — A good exhibit. Representations skillfully constructed and truthful to nature.

12. M. Louise Glover, Au£ni8ta, Me., U. S.

WORSTED WORK, COMPRISING BASKET OF FRUIT, SOFA PILLOW, AND ANTEMACASSAR.

Report, — Conunended for originality in design and high order of workmanship.

13. A. Bedford, Boston, Mass., U. S.

BEDF0RD*S EUREKA AIR-PISTOL.

Report, — Commended for simplicity in construction, accuracy, safety, and fitness for
purpose intended.

14. Maixe ft Schwartz, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

MILITARY CLOTHING.

Report, — Commended for good workmanship, fitness for purpose intended, together with
economy in cost

15. Wm. WUkens ft Co., Baltimore, Md., U. S.

CURLED HAIR AND BRISTLES.
Report, — Commended for a creditable exhibit of American bristles displaying great can*
and skill in preparing for use. Curled hair, black and bleached, well prepared, and fitness
for purpose intended.

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i6. Samuel C. Jackson, New York, N. Y., U. S.

JEWELRY CASES.

Report, — Commended for excellent designs and superior workmanship.

17. Mrs. L. Noot, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

LADIES* AXD CHILDREN'S DRESSES AND CAPS.

Report, — Commended for exquisite taste in design and style, together with high grade
of workmanship.

18. Charles Rumpp, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

FANCY LEATHER GOODS.

Report. — Commended for excellent material used, combined with good workmanship.

19. Charles Dubois, Portland, Oregon, U. S.

FURS.

Report, — Commended for a good exhibit in Alaska sable and mink, and Shetland seal,
displaying creditable workmanship.

20. Joseph W. Barrett, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

EMBROIDERY AND BRAIDING.

Report, — Commended as original and tasteful in designs and excellent in workmanship.

21. Mrs. Thomas Weaver, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

PYRAMID OF ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS.

Report, — Commended for a superb exhibit, tastefully arranged, displaying skill and inge-
nuity in construction.

22. Miss Harriet Randolph Parkhill, Jacksonville, Fla., U. S.

ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS MADE OF FISH SCALES.
Report, — Commended for a superb exhibit, consisting of brooch, ear-drops, bouquet de
corsage, and cross ; displaying ingenuity, skill, and artistic taste.

23. Carl Stehr, New York, N. Y., U. S.

MEERSCHAUM AND AMBER PIPES.

Report, — Commended for excellent quality, tasteful designs, and skill in workmanship.

24. Mrs. Elizabeth G. Harley, Haddonfield, N. J., U. S.

COMPLETE DARNER.

^^^/.^-Commended for utility and convenience.

25. Hirsh & Brother, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

PARASOLS AND UMBRELLAS.

Report, — Commended for superb ornamentation and excellent workmanship.

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26. C. E. Matthias, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

UMBRELLAS.

Report, — Commended for a display of well-made gingham and alpaca omhrellas.

27. Mrs. C. Wimpf heimer, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

HAIR RIBBON.

Report, — A close resemblance to human hair. Commended for fitness for purpose
intended.

28. Turner, Andrews, ft Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

POCKET BOOKS, AND FANCY LEATHER GOODS.

Report. — ^An excellent display of wallets and fancy leather goods of good style and
workmanship.

29. Foy ft Harmon, New Haven, Conn., U. S.

COMBINED CORSET AND SKIRT SUPPORTER.

Report, — Commended for great excellence in material, workmanship, and form, originaUty
in construction, imparting greater ease and comfort to the wearer.

30. M. Sand, New York, N. Y., U. S.

ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS.
Report. — A fine exhibit, showing good taste and skillful work.

31. American Mechanical Toy Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

MECHANICAL. TOYS.
Report. — A good exhibit of dancing and revolving figures of pleasing and entertaining
designs.

32. P. W. Lambert ft Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

WALLETS, POCKET BOOKS, AND LADIES' BELTS.
Report, — ^A good exhibit, displaying good taste and workmanship.

33. Mrs. K. Schmitt, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

HAIR JEWELRY.

Report. — A superb exhibit of hair work, displaying unusual skill in execution, together
with tasteful designs.

34. Antomo Castell de Pons, Barcelona, Spain.

TAPESTRY.
Report. — Commended for a rich collection of hand-made tapestry, carpets, portidres.
rugs, etc., of Moorish patterns, excellent in quality of material and workmanship.

35. Lamary, Paris, France.

SILK WATCH GUARDS AND RIBBONS.

Report. — Commended for good style and quality, together with economy in cost.

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36. I. Bidencope, Hobart Town, Tasmania.

HATS AND CAPS OF SILK AND FELT, WITH MATERIAL FOR MANUFACTURE.

Report. — Felt hats of good quality and finish.

37. Dolores Fernandez de Silo, Madrid, Spain.

EMBROIDERY AND LACE.

Report. — Commended for exquisite workmanship.

38. Theodora de Ibarzabal, Guipuzcoa, San Sebastian, Spain.

DAMASCENE WORKS.

Report. — Rich inlaid work of gold and silver in iron. Commended for good design and
workmanship.

39. Miss Margarita Matute, Guadalajara, Mexico.

EMBROIDERY.

Report. — Commended for a portrait executed with fine silk upon a handkerchief, dis-
playing skill and perfection in needle work.

40. School of Art, Mayor de la Seda, Barcelona, Spain.

PORTRAIT OF KING ALFONSO, WOVEN IN SILK.
Report, — Commended for skillful work and truthful representation.

41. J086 Pi y Solanas, Barcelona, Spain.

BLOND LACES.
Report. — Commended for a very fine display of blond laces, mantillas, veils, basques,
etc. Beautiful in design and workmanship.

42. D. Strauss & Co., St. Gallen, Switzerland.

EMBROIDERED CURTAINS.
Report. — A good exhibit, tasteful in design.

43. Miss Josefina Mata y Campo, City of Mexico, Mexico.

NEEDLE WORK.

Report, — Commended as tasteful in design and skillful in execution.

44. Debban Brulard, Damascus, Turkey.

SILK GOODS.
Report. — Silk goods, — scarfs, and robes woven with ornamental figures in gold and silver
thread. Silk goods of " Damascus stufi*." Commended for richness in design and good
quality of workmanship.

45. Jacob Isler & Co., Wohlen, Switzerland.

BRAIDS FOR LADIES* HATS MADE FROM STRAW AND HAIR.

Report. — Commended for excellence in quality and style.

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ICX) REPORTS ON AWARDS.

46. Mechanical Embroidery Establishment, near Winterthur, Zurich, Switzerland.

EMBROIDERY FOR UPHOLSTERY AND LADIES* GARMENTS.

Report. — Commended for excellence in design, economy in cost, and fitness for purpose
intetiiJed.

47. Ulrich St A. Tobler, Rheineck and Thai, Switzerland.

EMBROIDERY.

Rfp&rt. — Commended for good taste in design and excellent workmanshipw

48. C. G. Elrick, Aberdeen, Scotland.

HORN COMBS.

^tpoH. — Commended for excellence in designs, workmanship, and general finish.

49. Geo. John Smith, Upper Norwood, Surrey, England.

IRISH LACES — POINT AND LIMERICK.

Rfppri. — Commended for tasteful designs and excellent execution.

50. R. Sutter-Dorig, Appenzell, Switzerland.

EMBROIDERED HANDKERCHIEFS.

Report, — Commended for exquisite taste in design and skill in execution.

51. Hamlet Nicholson, Rochdale, England.

PATENT COMPOUND CRICKET BALLS.
^ipaH, — Commended for fidelity in spherical shape, and for smooth and even surface.

52. S. Shl-i-no Shobeye, Yokohama, Japan.

EMBROIDERY.

J^tpori. — Commended for skillful workmanship.

53. Swainson, Birley, & Co., London, England.

COTTON SHIRTINGS OR LONG CLOTH.

^fpari. — ^A good fabric, well bleached and finished.

54. Thomassa Lillo, Tucuman, Argentine Republic.

EMBROIDERED VESTMENT FOR PRIEST.

Rfpart — ^Commended for excellence in design, and fitness for purpose intended.

55. Carlos Ortells, Havana, Cuba.

EMBROIDERY,— PICTURES EXECUTED IN HUMAN HAIE.

Mtp&rL — Commended for artistic taste and skillful execution.

56. Carlotta Mathilde Teizeira, Funchal, Island of Madeira.

EMBROIDERY, COMPRISING SKIRTS, WAISTS, AND EDGINGS.

Rtp&rt. — Commended for good taste in design, together with excellent workmanship.

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GROUP X. lOl

57. Benjamin Zorilla, Salta, Argentine Republic.

PONXHO.

Report, — Commended for excellent fabric, and fitness for purpose intended.

58. Mrs. Josefa G. de Cossio, Corrientes, Argentine Republic.

EMBROIDERED TOWEL.

Report. — Commended for skill in design and execution.

59. Mrs. E. Q. de Gallaraga, Corrientes, Argentine Republic.

EMBROIDERED HANDKERCHIEF.

Report, — Commended for good taste in design, and skill in workmanship.

60. Theodor MtUler, Berlin, Germany.

HATS.
Report, — ^A good exhibit, displaying excellence in material and finish.

61. S. Kobayashi, Tokio, Japan.

LEATHER WORK OR FANCY LEATHER.

Report, — Fine dressed skins, printed in beautiful colors and designs, well adapted loi
furniture coverings, etc.

62. Frederick Fourasti6, Caracas, Venezuela.

COAT CHART.

Report, — Commended for a novel and ingenious system for taking measures.

63. George Adler, Buchholz, Germany.

FANCY BOXES AND BASKETS FOR JEWELRY, BONBONS, ETC.

Report, — Commended for tasteful designs and excellent construction.

64. Sophie Hesselbein, Berlin, Germany.

SILK E31IBR0IDERY.

Report. — Commended for excellent taste and skillful workmanship.

65. Heinrich Kuehn, Berlin, Germany.

EMBROIDERY AND EMBROIDERY PATTERNS.

Report, — ^A good exhibit, displaying excellent taste in designs for needle work.

66. G. P. Festa, London, England.

CORSETS.

Report, — Commended for novelty in construction and excellence in general finish.

67. W. S. Thomson & Sons, London, England.

CORSETS.

Report, — Commended for high degree of excellence in shape and general workman^ij>.

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102 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

68. Natanson & Hurwiu, Berlin, Germany.

FELT SHOES.
Report. — Commended for economy in cost and fitness for purpose intended.

69. Anselmo Incerti, Modena, Italy.

CAPS.

Report. — Commended for economy in cost and fitness for purpose intended.

70. Pietro Vaiani, Milan, Italy.

PERSIAN AWNINGS.

Report, — Commended for quality and economy in cost.

71. G. U. Huerlin & Co., Stockholm, Sweden.

MILITARY CLOTHING.

Report. — Clothing on figure of officer. Commended for good workmanship and fit.

72. ** La Paz" School of Embroideries, City of Mexico, Mexico.

EMBROIDERIES.

Report. — A large and superb exhibit, displaying a high grade of excellence in workman-
ship.

73. Teresa di Lenna, Udine, Italy.

NEEDLE WORK.

Report. — Commended for artistic merit and skillful handiwork.

74. Gaetano Fagioli, Piacenza, Italy.

FANCY BOXES FOR JEWELR / AND BONBONS.

Report. — Commended for tasteful designs and good workmanship.

75. Firmin & Sons, London, England.

BUTTONS AND MILITARY ORNAMENTS.
Report. — A large and superb display of metallic buttons for army, navy, and civic uses.
Commended for excellent design and finish.

76. Heymann & Alexander, Nottingham, England.

LACES, BOBBINETS, QUILLINGS, AND CURTAINS.

Report. — A good exhibit, displaying excellence in general finish, especially of curtains

77. Comellini & Buratti, Bologna, Italy.

CORSETS.

Report. — Commended for economy in cost and fitness for purpose intended.

78. John English ft Co., Feckenham, near Redditch, England.

NEEDLES AND SOLID HEAD STEEL PINS.

Report. — A large and complete exhibit, showing needles of superior strength and finish ;
solid head steel pins of excellent work and finish.

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GROUP X. 103

79. Sangster ft Co., London, England.

PA&ASOLS AND UMBRELLAS.

Report, — A large and varied collection of umbrellas, shades, and parasols, superb in
design and excellent in construction.

to. Miss Adele Gerosa, Milan, Italy.

EMBROIDERY — PICTURE OF LARENTI.

Report, — Commended for artistic taste and skillful work.

81. G. A. Beckh, Nuremberg, Germany.

SILVER AND GILT THREAD, AND FINE WIRE SPANGLES.

Report, — A handsome exhibit of fine workmanship.

82. August Straub, Prague, Austria.

GLOVES.

Report, — Commended for excellence in material, form, and workmanship.

83. Candido Angeli, Luxzsu-a. Italv.

CHIP HATS.

Report, — Commended for economy and fitness for purpose intended.

84. Ponti Rovera & Co., Piacenza, Italy.

BUTTONS OF VEGETABLE IVORY.

Report, — A good exhibit, displaying excellence in patterns and general finish.

85. The King of Spain, Madrid, Spain.

TAPESTRY.

Report, — Commended for excellence of design and superior workmanship.

86. Locher Brothers, Speicher, Switzerland.

MACHINE EMBROIDERY.

Report, — A fine product combined with economy in cost.

87. Mrs. Angiola Romani, Cremona, Italy.

EMBROIDERY ON WHITE SILK.
Report, — Picture, " The Muse Euterpe," black silk embroidery on white silk ground,
expressive and well drawn.

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104 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

SIGNING JUDGES OF SUPPLEMENT TO GROUP X.

't he figui^ annexed to the names of the Judges indicate the reports written by them
respectively*

B. F, Britton, X, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, x6, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22,
23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 35, 36, 39, 40, 42, 43, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51,
5^1 53. 54. r:^* 5^, 57, 58, 59» 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76,
77. 7S. 79. ^Or 82, 83, 84, 86.

Coleman Sellers, 34, 37, 38, 41, 44, 71, 87.

H. H.Smith, 81.

Edward Conley, 85.

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GROUP XL

JEWHLRY. WATCH-CASES, SILVER-WARE,
BRONZES, ETC.

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GROUP XI.

JUDGES,

AMERICAN.
3f ARTIN P. Kennard, Boston, Mass.
Pfter Gottesleben, Denver, Col.

FOREIGN.
G. H. Heap, Tunis.
ROULLEAUX DUGAGE, France.

The following named Judge was temporarily assigned from Group XV. to assist in the
-lamination of the classes attached to his name.

Juuus DiEFENBACH, Germany. — ^Jewelry, silver and plated ware, fancy goods, gems,
niid enamel painting.

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GROUP XL

JEWELRY, WATCHES, SILVER-WARE, BRONZES, Ere.
{See also Group XXVIL, Art.)

Class 253. — ^Jewelry, and ornaments worn upon the pprson.

Diamonds, and other precious gems, mounted singly or in groups, — ^head-dresses,
"tiara," necklaces, rings, pins, etc.

Pearls, pearl and coral sets and ornaments.

Gold ornaments, — rings, pins, necklaces, chains, bracelets, buttons, etc.

Cut and engraved stones.

Gilt goods, metal and other ornaments, and imitations generally.

Watches, — their mounting and decoration, — regarded chiefly from the ornamental
and commercial i>oint of view. (For " movements" and chronometric qualities, see also
Group XXV.)

Class 218. — Silver- ware and silver-plate, — ^hollow-ware, plain, embossed, engraved,
or otherwise ornamented.

Silver and silver-plated knives, forks, spoons, etc.
Ornamental silvered bronze and metal work generally. Bronzes and ** mante!
ornaments," decorative clocks, etc. Enamels, etc. (See Group XXVII.)

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GENERAL REPORT

OF THE

JUDGES OF GROUP XI.

InternationalExhibition,

Philadelphia, 1876.

Prof. F. A. Walker, Chief of Bureau of Awards :

Sir, — Herewith I forward to you the general report of the Judges
of Group XI.

Very respectfully yours,

M. P. KENNARD, Chairman,

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INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION^ 1876.

GROUP XL

JEWELRY, WATCH-CASES, SILVER-WARE,
BRONZES, ETC.

BY M. P. KENNARD.

The Judges of Group XL were assigned a somewhat wide range
of industries, their classifications leading them through varied pro-
ductions of utility up to the Fine Arts. In gems, in gold and silver
work, in artistic bronze, and in the enameler's and the lapidary's arts,
the exercise of their judgment .was called into a more diversified and
difficult path than if they had been given any single and special
manufacture, however extensive its relations.

They entered upon their labors at as early a day as possible, their
number being at first incomplete, owing to the non-arrival of expected
foreign members. Their work was attractive, however, and their
action always harmonious. They had their surprises and disappoint-
ments,— the former at the delightful and varied affluence of such
exhibits as those of Russia and Japan, the latter at the scantiness of
the French section in comparison with French ability, and the absence
from the United States department of many of those workers in the
precious metals who, in their supply of the American trade, have
distanced the world. It was fitting that more of these prominent
manufacturers of gold and silver goods should have shown, through
the courts of this Exhibition, the evidences of their genius and
industries.

Jewelry.

In their absence the Exhibition failed to represent, particularly in
the department of jewelry, the existing abilities of the country, and
it is to be regretted that their places were filled by inferior represent-
atives, many of whom, because located adjacent to the Exhibition,
were enabled to occupy their positions at small expense. When we
seek for the reasons for such absence, we suspect a disinclination to
publicly display patterns, where so little respect is paid to another's
property in any novelty of design, and where the recording and pro-

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XL j

tection of trade-marks seem not yet to have been set up as established
rules of the trade.

It may also be said that the more important manufacturers have
often their own peculiar trade; and the markets for their goods, and
in some cases their patterns, are controlled by their various customers,
the merchants, to whom they confine themselves, for mutual advan-
tage. To these drawbacks may perhaps be added the depressing
influences of two disastrous years, unexampled for their detriment to
this trade, and in consequence a large and general reduction of force,
and falling off in the production of novelties. It is proper to say
here, however, that the better examples — though few — of American
jewelry equaled those of any other nation as to display of taste,
mechanical execution, or quality of material. They are better adapted
to American demands, and the evidence of this is in the small quan-
tity now imported. American gold chains and necklaces, also collarets
and band bracelets in the Roman and Etruscan manner, — styles now
in vogue, — are specially notable as of admirable character, and none
exceed them for beauty of design or workmanship. The same may
be said of lockets, and has been said of our gold and silver watch-
cases for years past.

Without entering into dry statistics, it may be interesting to men-
tion that, according to the data of 187 1, the last year of the war tax,
the jewelry manufacture at Newark, New Jersey, alone, upon which
that tax was paid, amounted to eight millions of dollars, and in the
city of New York, the same year, it was between six and seven
millions. The number of working jewelers in the United. States is
estimated at twenty-five to thirty thousand ; of these Massachusetts
has about fifteen hundred ; Rhode Island, chiefly in the city of Provi-
dence, twenty-five hundred ; Newark, New Jersey, about sixty estab-
lishments, and nearly twenty-five hundred workmen ; and the city of
New York about six thousand workmen. In some of the jewelry
manufactories are employed, in ordinary times, from three hundred to
four hundred men. There are also in the United States about twelve
thousand watch and jewelry stores of importance. Connected with
these is always a force of watch-repairers and working jewelers
adequate to the business of each individual establishment. In the
present stagnation of a trade which is especially sensitive to times
of depression, there has followed, of course, a marked reduction in the
volume of business ; to what extent it is now very difficult to reach
conclusions with any degree of accuracy, nor is it essential here.

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4 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

Silver-ware.

In the precious metals, however, it was manifest that our chief
strength was in silver- ware, for which America has made large
demands in late years ; indeed, the displays of American silver-ware
excelled all others, and were among the distinguished attractions of the
Main Building. It is evident that the great production of this metal,
and the unprecedented demand for silver utensils in the United States,
have stimulated manufactures in this branch of mechanical art, and
that a growing aesthetical taste insists upon the highest possibilities.
Without aspiring to the exhibition of marvelous essays of human
ingenuity and artistic skill, which, when completed, are only monu-
ments of the patient and inexhaustible labor of some gifted and
exceptional artist, and void of real utility, — if we except a few prize-
and race-cups, and one or two more ambitious testimonials and sym-
bolical centre-pieces, or vases, — the American silver exhibits were
generally more practical in character, artistic in detail, of higher
elegance, and of superior grade of work. We should note also,
from several important establishments of the United States, distin-
guished examples of the "hard," or silver-soldered and electro-silver-
plated upon nickel or German silver ware, for table and general
don^estic use, especially praiseworthy for enduring quality, finish, and
good taste; indeed, no better goods of this class were on exhibition
than some of these specimens.

In the soft metal, or tin-soldered ware, known as plated upon Brit-
annia-metal goods, for like domestic purposes, there was a liberal
representation of a large and extending industry. Since the develop-
ment of the electro-plating process, this peculiar metal trade has
obtained more prominence in the United States than even in the
English markets. From its facility and cheapness we have more
manufacturers and consumers of this ware than any other nation,
and our products in this branch of metal-work are finding a con-
siderable demand from abroad. There is need, however, of a higher
standard of design. With but few exceptions, our goods of this
character lack simplicity and soberness of decoration, and more
attention to outlines and beauty of form is desirable.

It may be answered that this is cheap ware; but with metal so
facile it need not lack grace in shape, or be inartistic or vulgar. Too
many of the examples were marked by a garish taste, a prominence
of ornamentation void of significance, and a profusion and confusion
of ungainly bodies, handles, legs, and spouts, a jumble of materials
often incongruous, without unity, elegance, or originality. There was

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XL 5

also too much suggestion of traditional styles, and a kind of mill-
work that is monotonous. If the uncultured of our Western frontier
trade demand the meretricious, it does not follow that the taste of
these people need be further perverted by coarse designing. As in
many other manufactures, it is time we had an art and a series of
patterns more distinctly our own, and that our productions in this
metal should not always s\iggest to those at all conversant with the
trade the debris of the Sheffield and Birmingham work-shops of
former days. The character and quality of these goods may be
deemed honest for the price, and our technical processes are well
advanced; but an improvement in styles must be sought if it is
desirable to augment foreign demand, or reap that harvest in the
markets of the world to which metal-ware of such popular utility is
entitled.

In the line of electro-plated flat table-ware, known as rolled goods,
viz., knives, forks, spoons, and numberless pieces of a kindred nature,
there is an immense production in the United States. These forks,
and in some cases the knives, have superseded ivory-handled goods,
so liable to crack in our dry climate and with our indifferent domestic
service. A set of steel dies or rolls for making a suite of these goods
of each pattern involves no inconsiderable outlay, and but a few years
since only a few patterns were in use. Then the London market
could only furnish the " king's pattern,'* the " shell pattern," the
** thread pattern," and perhaps one or two others, and these were
made mostly in solid silver. Now there are many American manu-
facturers who furnish a greater variety of their own designs than
were then extant, and absolutely compute their production in tons
rather than by the gross.

It may be germane in this connection to allude to the difficulty
experts or others experience in determining the quality of electro-
plated articles. It was at this point that the Judges were sometimes
compelled to hesitate in characterizing quality. The amount of silver
deposited is often one of the trade mysteries. The only conclusive
test would have been to "strip" or assay in their presence such
doubtful articles, and thus to determine the exact amount of silver, as
also the quality of the nickel-silver basis upon which the silver is
deposited, which is not feasible in such an Exhibition. At the
manufactory such are weighed, in and out of the plating process, and
if there be six or sixteen ounces upon the work it is manifest in the
scales, and there only ; so that much has to be taken for granted,
and it is easy for unscrupulous manufacturers to foist poor goods
upon the market.

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6 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, rSyd.

Nickel-Plating.

Nickel-plating by the electro process is slowly making its way to
meet the requirements of our domestic life. Being somewhat grayer
in color, it perhaps may not be so popular with the housekeeper as
the acceptable whiteness of true silver-plating, yet it has some advan-
tages unknown to its more aristocratic rival. With a relative cost
of about one-fifth less thaft silver-plating, it presents a harder sur-
face, less liable to be defaced, does not oxidize under the action of
impure air, and therefore requires less care. For hotels, hospitals,
and ship and steamboat use the exhibits of this ware impressed the
Judges for their economy and service. In the earlier stages of electro-
plating the electro-deposition of nickel was found to be more difficult
than the other metals. It did not uniformly adhere, and was treach-
erous and uncertain in its action. To obviate this, in some cases it was
found needful that the article to be plated be first given a slight coat-
ing of copper, as for this metal the nickel has a more ready affinity.
The whole difficulty, however, was at last overcome by the discovery
of the process patented by Dr. Isaac Adams, Jr , in Boston, Massachu-
setts, in 1869. It has augmented the use of this metal for plating pur-
poses, and, as the method was not known previously, it is practically
an American art-industry. The ordinary nickel-plated hollow-ware
is upon a basis of planished tin, or of britannia metal, and also upon
** nickel-silver" ; but this coating with nickel enters into other and
manifold purposes, and renders it an important factor in the utiliza-
tion and improvement of metal-work for household use, and in a
broad field of other service.

Bronze of Art.

In the production of true bronze, known as the bronze of art, saving a
colossal marine group for the Lincoln monument at Springfield, Illinois,
from the Ames Foundry at Chicopee, Massachusetts, and a few orna-
mental pieces and decorative mountings for marble mantel-clocks want-
ing in originality, the American sections gave but little evidence of
vitality. Our art-life in America has been short, our hi.storic figures few.
and our art museums as yet meagre in examples for study or for repeti-
tion. In this branch we depend upon European copies and reductions
from the classic models of Greek and Roman art. The time is coming
when our native birds and animals will be thus modeled and pre-
served ; and there are many incidents in our civil, our military, and
our Indian history which furnish admirable examples for illustration
in enduring bronze, and may thus be perpetuated in objects of house-

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XL 7

hold art. We need the educational influences of such depositories as
the Kensington Museum in London, or the Louvre in Paris, to stim-
ulate the imagination and inspire the taste and action of our artisans
in such metal-work as well as in other branches.

Imitation Bronze.

There were also a few examples of zinc imitations of art-bronze
objects, the models chiefly copied from the French makers. These
are cast whole as a ** cone," and painted and colored superficially, or
covered with an electro-deposit of copper, and then artificially bronzed
to simulate the genuine at comparatively little cost. It may be said
here that the public do not always discriminate between this work and
true bronze. Such are advertised, and ofl:en sold as bronze, and some-
times as "French bronzes," — perhaps not always with deceitful
intent, — whereas they are but brittle spelter or zinc, and bear no
more relation to the real than a coarse chromo does to an original
oil-painting. This is, however, a new and growing branch of metal-
work, and, with enterprise and good taste, will find ample compensa-
tion and a large field.

GREAT BRITAIN.

The labors devolved upon this group by exhibitors from Great
Britain were not arduous. There were representations from London,
Birmingham, Liverpool, Edinburgh, Belfast, and Dublin, the most
important of which was the distinguished and comprehensive exhibit
of solid silver and electro-plated metal-work by Messrs Elkington
& Co., of Birmingham. This establishment maintained here its dis-
tinction for the high character of its artistic work in metals. Their
examples ran through the whole gamut of the trade, from articles for
simple domestic purposes up to their most ambitious productions,
some of these being veritable art-pictures, and apparently the culmi-
nation of human ability in metal-work, the excellence of which has
been acknowledged in former Exhibitions. Among the branches of
this industry more recently developed by this house is that of damas-
cening and inlaying of various metals, the specimens of which were
admirable novelties; also, a simulation of the better examples of
Japanese work in incrustations, both ingenious and complete ; with,
also, the processes both of cloisonne and champ-leve enameling, only
recently introduced into Europe from the Eastern nations. Their
essays in this decorative and artistic work were unrivaled for freedom
of design and quality of color and finish. The horological portion
of the English section was liberally represented by the best of the

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8 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

English trade, there being many familiar names of great repute among
the watch exhibitors, both from London and Liverpool. For the
treatment of this department, as to chronometric qualities, reference
is made to the report of Group XXV. The other British exhibitors
displayed chiefly miscellaneous contributions, but were notable also
as representing such specialties as manufactures of Scotch pebbles
set in silver as jewelry, bog-oak carvings and ornaments, Whitby jet
goods, and the like, in their peculiar provincial individuality. They
showed also admirable examples of jewelers'-work in gold and gems,
but generally of that conventional and massive-appearing character
which does not now find a responsive taste or a market in the
United States.

RUSSIA.

Russia presented to the attention of the Judges an admirable and
profu.se display of fascinating examples of her manufactures in gold
and silver, in fine bronze, and in articles made of Russian ornamental
stones. There were many novelties in her court that were a revelation
to an American. The remarkable silver-ware so amply displayed by
Sazikoff and others, both from St. Petersburg and Moscow, with
specimens of repousse and chiseled eflects, and the peculiar repre-
sentations of linen and damask in this metal, with the radiant beauty
of the gem-like enameling upon gold and silver and gilded silver
utensils in Greek, Byzantine, and Russian taste, were such marvelous
illustrations of the capabilities and truly artistic fancy of Russian
artisans as would have awakened the enthusiasm of a Benvenuto
Cellini and that of the historical Palissy, the famed enameler of
Limoges. There was much of ingenious and pleasing caprice in the
novelties in silver and in the gold jewelry and niello-work that were
suggestive to the American workers in the precious metals. The
jewelry by Adler, of Moscow, being of gold mosaic or damascene-
work, with the 'metal of varied alloys and colors so combined and
welded as to produce delicate effects with different grades of shading,
was an original and decided novelty. The bronzes from Felix Chopin,
from St. Petersburg, by the artist Lancere, though few in number
were refreshingly original, of native subjects, so well modeled and
of such artistic delicacy and expression as to add lustre to this inviting
section, and always find appreciative observers. An attractive specialty
of Russian art is the working by veneering or inlaying of such of
their ornamental stones as malachite, lapis lazuli, labradorite, etc.,
into articles for personal ornament, and also for luxurious furniture,
as mantels, tables, vases, and smaller objects of household decoration.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XT. g

There were many of these that were strange and attractive, showing
skillful work, and, in their peculiarity, unexampled in the Exhibition.

CHINA.

The Chinese department was conspicuous for a large and interest-
ing collection of decorated enamel utensils, vases, and ornamental
articles in the cloisonne manner, both of ancient and modern Chinese
work, for which the Commission were indebted to the consideration
and generous public spirit of Hu Kwang Yung, a high official and
banker of Hangchow. This section contained also various and
curious bronzes, mostly of ancient and grotesque character, with
some specimens of silver-work and gold ornaments by native artisans
that were characteristic, though without especial claim to novelty.

JAPAN.

Japan gave us an imposing display of great excellence, and a grati-
fying surprise, in the remarkable bronze productions which were so
attractive for their diversity and elaborate richness. In form, compo-
sition of metal, inlay-work, casting, chiseling, and ornamentation the
Japanese have in general not only a distinct art and character, but
each of their artisans, as illustrated by this Exhibition, seems to
maintain an individuality, taste, process of composition, and, indeed,
a peculiarity of metal distinctly his own, evidencing an extraordinary
versatility, and a distinctive independence which our own metal-
workers would do well to emulate. Their exhibits which came under
the attention of the Judges of Group XI. were principally ornamental
or decorative objects in bronze, as vases, censers, garden- or temple-
lanterns, and jardinieres, including also some delicate tea- and other
table-ware suggestive, in some respects, to our own manufacturers and
worthy of attention. The Japanese are adepts in alloys and in applied
decorative combinations of gold, silver, and copper in incrustations,
and in ingenious management of party-colors. In these metals they
illustrate a luxurious prodigality of fanciful invention, which is in
marked contrast with our own poverty in this branch of artistic
metal-work. But however rich in fancy these examples of Japanese
industrial art may have been, they were not uniformly so good in the
mechanical qualities. They were often lacking in symmetry and
mechanical perfection. Their pairs of vases, for example, were not
always uniform in shape, being imperfectly matched as to measure-
ments and relative proportion, a quality which with us is produced by
turning-lathes and other engines of our own unerring mechanism,

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lO INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

evidently not at present availed of by the Japanese artisans. In the
vitreous enameled metal-ware, known as the cloisonne, they showed
but comparatively few examples, and these, however elaborate and
painstaking, were often deficient in the treatment and in the purity of
their enamel, and weaker in the quality of color than the best English
specimens of this art. The Commission are especially indebted to
M. Marunaka, of Kanazawa, province of Kaga, for many valued con-
tributions to the Exhibition, which, however, being of a collective
character, the regulations do not permit this group to further recog-
nize with an award.

FRANCE.

France, as compared with other nations, sent us a goodly num-
ber of representatives ; but when we recall her fertile artisans and
the ramifications of her many industries, when we remember that she
leads the world in artistic and purely ornamental metal-work, in deco-
rative furnishings, and in all articles of luxurious fancy, we are con-
strained to believe that her resources w^re not adequately represented
in our Exhibition. One recognized at intervals some of her best
productions, and yet found they but insufficiently suggested the
manifold attractions of Paris. There was a dearth of those attractive
Parisian specialties for which the United States have been such ready
customers; and in those faithful mechanical reductions in bronze of
the many historical subjects and classical remains of antique art
which would have been of great interest, the paucity of the display
was much to be regretted. In point of fact, many establishments
prominent for their productions in bronze were unrepresented. In
ware electro-plated with silver, and galvano-plastic articles for
domestic use, there was also a palpable dearth ; yet the French de-
partment was an extended and attractive one, of such great variety
that it should not be under-estimated. Their gold-workers presented
some notable examples, Boucheron and others, of Paris, displaying
superb productions of rich jewelry with rare gems and brilliant
enamels. These contributions illustrated many periods, and, whether
in obedience to the exacting extravagance of modern demand or in
the faithful rendering of the best of the Roman or the Egyptian age,
were of the very highest artistic and material merit. This section was
also diversified with attractive exhiJDits of bronze, brass, and gilt art-
work, champ-leve enameling, portable and mantel time-pieces, and
mantel and other rich furniture. Marchand exhibited a remarkable
chimney-piece of Greek style, with a central figure of Minerva in
bronze, which was a masterpiece in its way. This section was also
rich with palatial furnishings, by Cornu & Co., of Algerian onyxes

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XL u

and variegated marbles tastefully mounted in bronze. There were
also collective reproductions of small antique objects in bronze of
Pompeian character, and numerous other branches of Parisian fan-
tasy, many of which, being imitations and of a finical character, were
not inspiring acquisitions.

GERMANY.

From Germany there were many representations of those industries
whose classification brought them to the attention of the Judges of
Group XI. These included several with productions in silver for
household service, of original and attractive character, and unlike any
other examples in the Exhibition. There were also galvano-plastic
or electrotype copies of those remarkable silver utensils and patera
of ancient Rome known as the "Treasures of Hildesheim," in solid
silver and in baser metal, interesting not only as exact repetitions of
high art work, but as valuable illustrations of the advantages of this
process of depositing by galvanic action, and thus precisely repro-
ducing the most elaborate work. The German manufacturers made
a good display of electro-plated wares, and their oxidized silvered
goods gave evidence of more attention to productions of this specific
character than appeared in other sections. Some two or three manu-
facturers exhibited copiously of galvano-plastic and zinc composition,
models of monuments and public characters in German history, in
the manner of real bronze, the casting followed with a superficial
covering of copper, and then bronzed or colored, which were rather
inartistic in character and devoid of sharp and expressive outlines.
■ but of moderate cost. Perhaps the most noticeable feature of the
German department of the Main Building was the jewelry and gold-
work. There were several interesting collective exhibits which in-
cluded the productions of many combined manufacturers. These were
chiefly from Hanau, Pforzheim, and Swabian Gmiind, for many years
the homes of much of this industry. All the grades were here, from the
better examples of European work (but mostly of the fourteen-karat
quality) to the lightest and the cheapest adaptations to the require-
ments of their specific markets. It may be inevitable from familiarity,
but one who is in any degree conversant with these goods is inclined
to wish for more frequent departures from long- won ted styles. A
stray scholar from some school of design should be acceptable to
some of these manufacturers ; fresher ideas and new dies would be less
suggestive of automatic work, and perhaps bring needed flexibility
and a livelier trade. France and Germany have of late years drawn
away from Italy much of the business of cameo-cutting. In this art

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12 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

there was a collective representation, with some excellent specimens
from Idar-Oberstein, the present location of much lapidary and glyptic
industry.

ITALY.

The Italian department was somewhat barren of the best samples
of Italian ability. With the exception of praiseworthy examples of
fine jewelry and gold-work by Bellezza, some fascinating reproduc-
tions of the Greco-Etruscan period by Castellani, 'silver filigree-work
from Genoa, a little really fine coral from Naples, and a few artistic
bronzes of classic mould, — statuette reductions from the antiques by
Boschetti, of Rome, — it gave us little of striking importance, and but
the average of the sales-rooms and the shops of Florence, Rome,
Naples, and Genoa. This section bore rather the character of a
bazaar than of an Exhibition, and it seemed evident the exhibitors
had thus calculated. There are many attractive specialties of Italian
art that are inviting to the stranger which were looked for in vain.
In a word, they gave us copiously of their merchandise, but not
much of their most esteemed art.

AUSTRIA.

Austria sent us specimens of her fine jewelry and some admirable
gold-chainwork, with imitation jewelry and false stones of many
sorts ; also, many examples of small gilt and bronze metal articles of
varied fancy and purpose. These chiefly came from Vienna. There
was also a liberal display of the Bohemian garnet jewelry, a peculiar
manufacture of that province. These stones are set in a red com-
position of copper and gold, and when thus mounted are of moderate
cost. At times these ornaments have been an important element of
trade, and now, for almost an indefinite period, have come to us
without material change of patterns. If those interested in this
manufacture desire the business to survive in the American market,
it would be advisable to stimulate it with some new ideas and designs.

SWITZERLAND.

Switzerland displayed some superb jewelry and gold-work, and
also exquisite enamel paintings set as jeweled ornaments and pen-
dants, especially noticeable; and her ingenious artisans here main-
tained their renown for fine watches of many styles, with skillful
engraving and tasteful ornamentation in decorating and casing them.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XL 13

NORWAY, DENMARK, AND SWEDEN.

These countries each presented interesting contributions, but mostly
manufactures of silver. The silver filigree-work from Norway was
of distinguished excellence.

PORTUGAL.

Portugal also gave us several exhibits of silver-work, chiefly of
filigree ornaments of mediocre character.

EGYPT.

To the Egyptian National Museum we were indebted for speci-
mens of Egyptian industry in gold and silver filigree.

BELGIUM.

Belgium illustrated the value and quality of her black marble, in
examples of decorated mantel-clocks, with movements of French
manufacture.

SPAIN.

From Spain the only exhibitor who claimed the attention of the
Judges of this group was P. Zuloaga, of Madrid, whose specialty is
the incrustation of metals, and who displayed caskets, vases, salvers,
and many other articles of ornamental work in iron, enriched with
gold and silver inlay and damascene-work, rendering them quaintly
ornamental and quite exceptional in character. This collection had
the flavor of the mediaeval age, and suggested an epoch when time
was not money.

TUNIS.

To his Highness the Bey of Tunis we were indebted for examples
of Tunisian ornaments of various descriptions for personal wear, and
of interest for their novelty.

INDIA.

From India we had the intere.sting contributions of Messrs. Watson
& Co., of Bombay, comprising rich gold and silver ornaments, skill-
fully made of filigree, and fine gold repousse native work of remark-
able character, with a utilization of tigers' claws neatly mounted in
gold for feminine adornment; also, silver cups and other utensils
exquisitely wrought.

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14 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

TURKEY.

Turkey, through her representatives from Albania, Trebizond,
Aleppo, and other centres, exhibited many characteristic articles of
rich fantasy, such as rich enameled coffee-cups, caskets, jewel-cases,
and other articles of silver filigree-work, Albanian niello enamel
specimens, damascene-work in iron, with cutlery of Damascus steel,
and various articles for personal ornament, Oriental in taste and of
curious interest.

BRAZIL.

Brazil sent us a few examples of jewelry and manufactures of gold,
with an elaborate display of her peculiarly brilliant insects, variously
mounted as jewelry and decorative ornaments for personal wear.

It is to be regretted that some prominent exhibitors of rich jewelry
and silver-ware were, by the needful regulations of the Centennial
Commission, debarred from such distinctive awards as would have
been commensurate with the admirable and meritorious character of
their varied displays. Of those exhibitors, Messrs. Bailey & Co. and
Caldwell & Co., of Philadelphia, and Messrs. Starr & Marcus, of New
York, are conspicuous. Being merchant jewelers, their exhibits were
of a collective character, including other than their own manufactures,
and as such necessarily non-competitive, but their attractive sections
cannot have failed in public appreciation.

• WATCHES.

Watches were referred to Group XI. to be regarded chiefly from
the ornamental and commercial point of view, their movements and
chronometric qualities being left to the consideration of the Judges
of Group XXV.

The treatment of this subject leads one at once to the exterior
attractions of this useful pocket mechanism. It is proverbially an
ungracious privilege to be the recipient of the shells, while another
regales himself with the luxurious bivalve; but, as sometimes the
pearl of the shell is of more value than the meat, so it may be with —
in this age — that very important companion of mankind, a watch : the
case can be of more value than the movement. Dropping the meta-
phor, watch-case-making in the United States has for nearly half a
century been an important and increasing branch of gold and silver
work. For the specific American trade American-made watch-cases
were preferable to foreign ones, because they could be better and more

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XL 15

readily adapted to the exacting fancy and varied and independent
tastes of Americans ; and from the earliest introduction of this manu-
facture they have not suffered by comparison with foreign work.
There was, besides, economy in avoiding an exorbitant tariff by im-
porting only the watch-movements and casing them here. With
increased demands great improvements have been made i« the tech-
nical processes of this work, the aid of novel machinery evoked, and
the cost of production materially reduced, placing them at prices
beyond all foreign competition.

Many watch-case-making establishments now find employment for a
large force, the most important of which are those connected with the
several watch-manufactories at present in operation ; one of these, the
Waltham (Massachusetts) Company, for example, having an average
monthly product of 5CXX) silver cases, and upwards of 1500 gold ones.
Nor are the results of this branch of manufacture produced wholly
by the aid of machinery. It gives employment to numerous skillful
artisans, as engravers, enamelers, and their like. The American
watch-cases so copiously displayed in the Exhibition, for mechanical
qualities, finish, decorative engraving, and varied ornamentation, were
generally of the highest excellence, and also remarkable for their
diversity of patterns.

In no department of the business during the present generation has
there been a more radical change than in that of the watch trade,
whether we consider the locality of the sources of supply, the char-
acter and the styles of the goods, or the mechanism and principles
employed in the construction of the movements. In earlier times
English watches well-nigh held the markets of the world. Within
the last three or four decades Coventry supplied the cheap grades,
Liverpool and Prescott furnished a better class of more trustworthy
and substantial work, and the London makers produced chiefly the
highest quality and most accurately adjusted mechanism. A London
watch was then the synonym for a satisfactory time-keeper. Subse-
quently all these in a great degree yielded to the lighter styles, more
attractive, equally trustworthy, and more economical productions of
the Swiss makers.

The lower grades of English work at first disappeared, their verge-
escapements following the sun-dial and the clepsydra into desuetude,
the Swiss watches supplanting them both in the United States and, to
a great degree, in their own home markets. While the inferior Eng-
lish watch-work thus suffered, the Swiss makers were advancing with
their improved escapements and tasteful and more inviting and diversi-
fied patterns of the very highest grades of complicated movements and

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1 6 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

adjusted work, which rivaled, and in some markets long since super-
seded, many of the best London names ; so that, with the exception
of a very limited number of well-reputed and exceptional makers, the
demand for English watches has now ceased in the United States.
Switzerland enjoyed for many years, without much interruption, the
advantages of this large and profitable field, particularly as regarded
the trade with America, but the present tendency is to an absolute
reversal of former conditions.

In the march of events, and under the cheap production, mathe-
matical precision, and interchangeability of parts of the watches now
made by American machinery, the Swiss makers are sensibly feeling
a diminution of American orders, and are preparing for the inevitable
revolution foreshadowed by the acknowledged importance and per-
fection of the American system, so amply illustrated in the Philadel-
phia Exhibition. In point of fact, the United States, while ceasing to
be customers, are becoming rivals, and are largely exporting watches
in lieu of importing them.

It was the saying of an eminent London maker of former days, —
whose various workmen of the many subsidiary trades needful in
producing a watch under the old system lived away from him, and
weekly brought to his establishment the varied detail of minute and
delicate parts that went to make up the complete mechanism, — the
jewelers, the escapement-makers, the pinion-makers, the springers,
and the other numerous auxiliaries, — that " no watch would ever be
properly and perfectly made until they could be wholly produced
under one roof!" This point is now reached. From Nuremberg to
Waltham it has taken four hundred years ! Of the half-dozen watch-
manufactories at present operating in the United States upon this
system, there were but two displays at Philadelphia, those of the
Waltham (Massachusetts) Company and the company at Elgin, Illi-
nois, the latter not being in competition.

In the earlier stages of American watch production the larger sizes
were furnished, as being of the most popular character, and it was
sometimes held against the machinery system that it did not permit
such flexibility as to range of sizes as with the hand-made watches,
where only six or twelve of any optional calibre were cai^ried along
together in the process of manufacture. This is now obviated; for
the Waltham Company exhibited many sizes, ranging from the small-
est useful sizes suited to ladies' wear to the maximum sizes for the
use of gentlemen. As has been intimated, the popular American fancy
has hitherto been for larger sizes than were used abroad. There is
a perceptible change in this taste, and also in the demand for what

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XL ly

are known as hunting-cases. The latter was greatly stimulated by
the requirements during the decade succeeding the California exodus,
so as almost to set a fashion, but they now seem likely to be replaced
by the lighter and more convenient open-face finish. One of the most
advantageous improvements of late years, for the convenience of the
wearer and the durability of the watch, is the invention of winding
in the stem. Faulty at first, this admirable mechanism has been so
perfected as to soon render all key- winders obsolete.

The advent of steam in traveling has generated a more rigid neces-
sity for promptness than in former days, and has created a demand
for the higher and more expensive grades of movements, and ren-
dered nearly useless all cheap pocket time-keepers. But it is evident
that the markets of watch-demanding countries are not to be quietly
possessed by these American manufacturers. Already organizations
are on foot abroad both as to the production of watch-cases and
watch-movements, upon the American idea and under American
superintendence, so that competition — that inspiring force in human
activities — is still to be an important factor in this interesting depart-
ment of mechanical industry.

As a matter of information, it may be opportune to remark here,
that gold articles of jewelers' work, both of ornament and utility, and
many other productions of varied character related in soipe way to
such mechanical artisanship, manufactured in the United States, have
long found European and other foreign orders, and to these may, of
late, be added silver and silver-plated wares, and gold and silver
watches in constantly-increasing volume.

It is manifest that under the stimulating wealth of suggestion and
educational influences of the International Exhibition at Philadelphia,
new ideas and fresh enterprises are springing into the industries of
the United States. The workshops and products of their artisans in
various directions are already foreshadowing this, and it is desired
that these advantages may in some measure be reciprocally enjoyed
by the enterprising visitors of other lands who honored the Exhibition
with their presence.

American agencies in European cities for the introduction of Amer-
ican manufactures are being established, which, but for the intelligence
and experience elicited by the Centennial Exhibition, might have
waited years longer for such demonstration.

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REPORTS ON AWARDS.

GROUP XI.

I. M.I. Valentin, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

ORNAMENTS FOR PERSONAL WEAR.

Report, — He exhibits personal ornaments made chiefly of brilliantly colored Brazilian
beetles and other insects, well mounted ; also a gold snuff-box of tasteful design.

2. Collective Exhibition arranged by M. Piel, Paris, France.

JEWELRY.

Report, — A collective exhibition of imitation jewelry, arranged by M. Piel, containing
the goods of MM. Piel, Topart, Levy, Jacquemin, H^mery, Mascurand, and Regad.
Commended for good style, variety, and moderate prices.

3. Petit-Pierre ft Bryson, Geneva, Switzerland*

JEWELRY.

Report, — Rich jewelry and fine enamel paintings, excellent in quality, style, and work-
manship.

4. Jean Gay, Geneva, Switzerland.

JEWELRY.

Report, — Commended for his collection of watch chains and enamel lockets of good
style and execution.

5. Fritz Becker, Pforzheim, Germany.

GOLD JEWELRY.

Report, — Bracelets of good design and execution.

6. Geissell ft Hartung, Hanau, Germany.

GOLD JEWELRY.

Report, — Gold jewelry, medallions, and bracelets in Roman style; also diamond work
and other gems of excellent execution.

7. Heinrich Witzemann, Pforzheim, Germany.

GOLD CHAINS.

Report. — Gold chains, necklaces, and lockets of good execution.

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3to REPORTS ON AWARDS,

8. Wild ft Co., Pforxheim, Gennany.

MOURNING JEWELRY.

Report. — Mourning jewelry, gold jewelry, with pearls and turquoise, of good manufacture^
at moderate prices.

9. Bixer Brothers, Pforsheim, Germany.

GOLD JEWELRY.

Report. — A variety of gold rings of good execution.

10. August Gerwig, Pforxheim, Germany.

GOLD JEWELRY.

Report. — Commended for great variety in lockets and designs.

II. Gschwindt ft Co., Pforzheim, Germany.

GOLD JEWELRY.

JP^I^tfff.^Mounted stone cameos of excellent execution.

12. Wilhelm Heidegger ft Co., Pforsheim, Germany.

GOLD JEWELRY.

RepcrL — Goods of fair quality at moderate prices.

13. Eduard Lay, Pforzheim, Germany.

LOCKETS.

H^^rA^Medallions and lockets of good execution and at moderate prices.

14. Ernest Sch5nfeld, Jr., Hanau, Germany.

GOLD JEWELRY.

Report. — Reperc6 jewelry set with gems, of good quality and execution.

15. H. Keller, Pforzheim, Germany.

GOLD JEWELRY.
Reports — Gold rings of very good execution.

16. A. Voltz-Bier, Hanau, Germany.

GOLD JEWELRY.

^^«y.— Etruscan jewelry of good finish.

17. G. P. Backes ft Co., Hanau, Germany.

GOLD JEWELRY.

JTij^tff/.^Commended for their exhibit of fine jewelry of excellent taste and superioi
execution .

18. Dingeldein Brothers, Hanau, Germany.

GOLD JEWELRY.

Report. — Commended for their interesting collection of gold jewelry of superior
ezecadon.

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GROUP XL 21

19. Hugo Zeuner, Hsmau and Berlin, Germany.

GOLD JEWELRY.

Report. — Reperc6 jewelry of very good taste and execution.

20. C. W. Schehl, Hanau, Germany.

ETRUSCAN JEWELRY.

Report, — Commended for his exhibition of fine jewelry in Etruscan style.

21. C. Hertel ft Son, Hanau, Germany.

GOLD JEWELRY.

Report, — Gold jewelry of various designs at moderate prices.

22. C. Bi8singer*8 Sons, Hanau, Germany.

GOLD jkwELRY.

Report, — Genuine jewelry of superior class and excellent manufacture.

23. C. M. Weishaupt's Sons, Hanau, Germany.

GOLD JEWELRY.

Report, — Commended for jewelry of old Celtic style, originality of pattern, and neatness
of execution.

24. Steinheuer ft Co., Hsuiau, Germany.

GOLD JEWELRY.

Report, — Reperc^ jewelry of high originality.

25. Pleuer ft Co., Stuttgart, Germany.

GOLD JEWELRY.

Report, — Commended for variety of good jewelry at moderate prices.

26. GusUv Hauber, S. Gmlind, Germany.

SILVER JEWELRY.

Report, — Silver chains and chains with niello work.

27. Ottmar Zieher, S. GmttQd, Germany.

GOLD JEWELRY.

Report, — Commended for his collection of Etruscan-style jewelry.

28. M. H. Neustadtl, Prague, Bohemia, Austria.

JEWELRY.

Report, — ^Bohemian garnet jewelry of fine finish and moderate price.

29. M. Kersch, Prague, Bohemia, Austria.

GARNET JEWELRY.

Report. — Garnet jewelry in great variety and of good workmanship.

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22 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

30. Markowitsch ft Scheid, Vienna, Austria.

JEWELRY.

Report, — Ornaments and articles in niello and enamel, of good taste and execution.

31. Michael Goldschmidt ft Son, Prague, Bohemia, Austria.

GARNET JEWELRY.

Report, — Bohemian garnet jewelry and ornaments, of a variety of designs and excellent
workmanship.

32. Giacinto Melillo, Naples, Italy.

ETRUSCAN AND GREEK-ETRUSCAN JEWELRY AND CORALS.

Report, — Commended for excellence of workmanship and truth. He exhibits corals and
Etruscan and Greek- Etruscan jewelry. A pink coral necklace is especially deserving.

33. Giovanni Boncinelli ft Son, Florence, Italy.

JEWELRY AND MOSAICS.

Report, — Commended for creditable and tasteful workmanship. Their Florentine mosaics,
medaUions, caskets, and portfolios are commendable as of good character.

34. Niccolo A. Bellexxa, Rome, Italy.

JEWELRY.

Report, — Commended for high style of jewelry, excellence of taste, and superiority of
workmanship. He exhibits a square necklace set with rubies, sapphires, and emeralds —
a new design ; a necklace of the Louis Quinze pattern, with cameos ; a very fine brilliant,
surrounded with rose diamonds ; and an Egyptian necklace.

35. Giovanni Ascione ft Son, Torre del Greco, Italy.

CORAL JEWELRY.

Report, — Commended for good and artistic workmanship. Exhibit coral jewelry mounted
in gold, coral pipes, cameos, and various articles in coral of good quality and artistic designs.

36. Giojuxxa Gibertini ft Co., Naples, luly..

CORALS.

Report, — Commended for beautiful display. They make a meritorious exhibition of pink,
pale, and red corals.

37. Otto Krumbuegel, Moscow, Russia.

JEWELRY.

Report. — Novelties in style and novelty in fabric ; pierced <^n work in gold with enamel-
ing especially fine in character.

38. John Tchitchelef, Moscow, Russia.

JEWELRY.

Report. — Gems, jewelry, necklace, and lockets, in Russian styles and of special excellence.

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GROUP XL 23

39. V. A. Adler, Moscow, Russia.

JEWELRY.

Report, — Superior jewelry of many styles, with finely-set gems in good taste ; also golden
mosaic jewelry. The gold being of varied colors and alloys ingeniously combined in the
style of damascene work is entirely novel in character, effective in style, and of marked
excellence and beauty.

40. William Gibson, Belfast, Ireland.

JEWELRY, GEMS, AND BOG-OAK ARTICLES.

Report, — An exhibition of fine jewelry and gems of high character, admirably set in
special styles and with good taste ; also a large variety of bog-oak articles of superior ex-
cellence.

41. James Aitchison, Edinburgh, Scotland.

SCOTCH PEBBLE JEWELRY.

Report, — ^An attractive display of Scotch pebble jewelry and ornaments of marked excel-
lence, especially in Scotch taste.

42. Jeremiah Goggin, Dublin, Ireland.

BOG-OAK JEWELRY, WALKING-CANES, AND ORNAMENTS.

Report, — Manufactures of bog-oak, including jewelry and ornaments of this material, of
varied designs and superior character.

43. Bmile Philippe, Paris, France.

JEWELRY.

Report, — ^Artistic jewelry of very remarkable style and finish, especially necklaces,
bracelets, earrings, and pins, in Egyptian taste, with ancient Egyptian scarabei.

44. Brhard ft Sons, S. Gmiind, Germany.

GALVANOPLASTIC WORK.

Report, — Oxidized galvanoplastic jewel caskets and art castings of great variety and
beauty of design and excellent execution.

45. F. Boucheron, Paris, France.

JEWELRY.

Report, — Commended for his most attractive exhibition of strictly fine jewelry and
jeweled objects of art of the highest excellence ; his rare gems, fine enamel work in bril-
liant colors, and exqubite articles of luxury.

46. GujfOt ft Migneauz, Paris, France.

JEWELRY.

Report, — Commended for an exhibition of small ornaments made with insects and
* feathers, — an ingenious specialty.

47. Ernest Fouchard, Paris, France.

JEWELRY.

Report. — Commended for the exhibition of ecclesiastical and theatrical ornaments,
regalia, and imitations of weapons.

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24 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

48. Widow Audy, Paris, France.

JEWELRY AND PEARLS.

Report. — Commended for the exhibition of imitation pearls of great perfection.

49. Murat, Paris, Prance.

GOLD-PLATED JEWELRY.

Report, — Gold-plated necklaces, bracelets, medallions, acnd brooches of excellent design
ond superior work.

50. John C. Meyer, New Orleans, La., U. S.

JEWELRY — GOLD WORK.

Report, — Gold and silver badges, medals, and jeweled prize decorations for societies,
clubs, etc.; work of fine character, of original patterns, and in good variety.

51. A. Fomet, Bourg, Ain, France.

JEWELRY.

Report. — Commended for specialty of jewelry and enamel work in Bressan style.

52. Hamilton ft Hunt, Providence, R. I., U. S.

ROLLED PLATED CHAINS.

Report. — Gold-plated chains, necklaces, and bracelets of rolled plate of excellent quality
and finish.

S3. Tiffany ft Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

JEWELRY AND JEWELED WATCHES.

Report. — Commended for their specimens of jewelry, diamond work, and other set gems
of dazzling richness and high quality of workmanship; also for watches of attractive
styles with jeweled, engraved, and enameled decorations of excellence.

54. Alessandro Castellani, Naples, luly.

REPRODUCTIONS OF ANTIQUE JEWELRY.

Report. — A small but choice and very excellent display. He exhibits reproductions of
antique gold jewelry set with genuine antique intaglios ; also imitations of antique gems.

55. Bolxani ft Flissl, Vienna, Austria.

JEWELRY OF GOLD.

Report. — Gold chain work of good finish and great variety of patterns.

56. Derby Silver Co., Derby, Conn., U. S.

PLATED GERMAN-SILVER TABLE WARE.

Report. — A large variety of patterns of knives, forks, spoons, and other table utensils,
good in design, and of excellent finish and quality.

57. H. F. BarrovjTS ft Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

GOLD-PLATED GOODS.

Report. — Gold-plated articles of ornament, chains, necklaces, and lockets, of good
general character in style and of excellent finish.

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58. Holmes, Booth, & Haydens, Watcrbury, Conn., U. S.

SILVER-PLATED GOODS.

Report. — ^A good display of electro-plated on nickel silver knives, forks, spoons, and
other flat table ware, of varied patterns and general excellence.

59. Meriden Silver Plate Co., Meriden, Conn., U. S.

PI-ATED ON BRITANNIA METAL GOODS.

Report. — Specimens of hollow ware with combinations of cut glass, of good quality and
general excellence.

60. Meriden Britannia Co., West Meriden, Conn., U. S.

SILVER-PLATED GOODS.

Report. — Commended for a large variety of silver-plated white metal hollow ware of
excellent quality and finish and of tasteful designs ; particularly articles made under Prof.
Silliman's patented process for hardening. Their silver-plated forks, spoons, and knives
are of superior quality and well finished. Their XII. plating or extra plating on exposed
parts deserves commendation. Their nickel-plated hollow ware is of very fine finish.

61. A. Ritter & Co., Esslingen, Germany.

SILVER-PLATED WARE.

Report. — Commended for their collection of electro-plated silver and German-silver ware
of fair quality.

62. Manning, Bowman, & Co., West Meriden, Conn., U. S.

NICKEL- PLATED WARE.

Report. — Nickel-plating for general table ware. They exhibit hollow ware of both soft
and hard metal plated ^%'ith nickel, well adapted for ship, hotel, and family use. The nickel
surface is harder than silver plating, of lower cost, and not so liable to tarnish.

63. Adams & Shaw Co., Providence, R. I., U. S.

SILVER PLATE.

Report. — Very superior silver-soldered silver-plated dining and tea-table ware, of genuine
excellence and fine finish.

64. Reed & Barton, Taunton, Mass., U. S.

SILVER-PLATED WARE.

Report. — Commended for their silver-plated tea and dinner sets, and table ware of
superior finish and quality. An ornamental centre-piece, " Progress,'* deserves commen-
dation. Their knives, forks, and spoons, plated on hard white metal, are of an honest and
durable character ; the variety of patterns large ; their die work well defined, and their
designs tasteful.

65. Nicola Rolaksi, Trebizond, Turkey.

SNUFF-BOX AND BELT OF GOLD.

Report. — Commended for general excellence of workmanship. He exhibits a snuff-box,
and a belt of gold, woven very delicately with filigree clasps.

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66. Noury Edin Ousta, Monastir, Turkey.

INCRUSTATION WORK.

Report. — Commended for excellence of work. He exhibits articles of steel incrusted
and damascened with gold. The work is ingenious.

67. Francisco Aug. Vaz Cerquinho, Oporto, Portugal.

SILVER AND GOLD FILIGREE WORK.

Report. — Commended for variety of patterns, particularly in his silver filigree sets, brace-
lets, and hair ornaments.

68. LobSo & Ferreira, Oporto, Portugal.

SILVER AND GOLD FILIGREE WORK.

Report. — Commended for silver filigree card baskets and cases, jewel caskets, and bouquet
holders of tasteful designs and neat execution.

69. P. A. Lie, Christiania, Norway.

SILVER WARE.

Report. — Commended for excellence of workmanship. He exhibits a tankard and
drinking-horn in silver and gold of fine and skillful workmanship ; also patera and articles
of personal wear in silver filigree, Norwegian style.

70. J. Tostrup, Christiania, Norway.

SILVER WORK.

Report. — Conmiended for excellence of taste, design, and workmanship. He exhibits
work of great neatness and precision ; also a centre-piece and patera of exquisite workman-
ship and taste ; candlesticks, and a variety of personal ornaments in filigree.

71. P. Zuloaga, Madrid, Spain.

INLAID WORK AND INCRUSTATIONS.

Report. — Commended for skillful workmanship and great beauty of design and finish.
He exhibits articles in iron and steel, chiseled and inlaid with gold and silver; a specialty
of rich incrustations of metals, portfolios, vases, shields, plateaux, and sword-hilts.

72. Gold Working Company, Oporto, Portugal.

SILVER TEA SERVICES.

Report. — Commended for fine execution of designs, good chasing and engraving.

73. Lui2 Pinto Moutinho, Lisbon, Portugal.

SILVER CANDELABRAS AND INKSTANDS.

Report. — Commended for good workmanship generally.

74. Emilio Forte, Genoa, Italy.

SILVER WARE.

Report, — Commended for tasteful workmanship. He exhibits fans, baskets, plateaux,
bracelets, and other articles in silver filigree, which are creditable.

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GROUP XL 27

75. C. Salvo & Sons, Genoa, luly.

SILVER WARE.

Report. — Commended for good workmanship at moderate prices. They exhibit silver
and gold filigree ornaments.

76. Elking^on & Co., Birmingham, England.

ARTISTIC METAL WORK.

Report, — Commended for their remarkable exhibit of artistic productions and effects with
metals combined in incrustations and damascene work, a renewal of the higher qualities
of an art of the Middle Ages, with gold and silver decorations upon the darker background
of iron and steel; and for repouss6 work, the famous Helicon Vase being a noble example
of these combinations, and an unmatched and beautiful illustration of human genius and
painstaking art work.

77. Elkington & Co., Birmingham, England.

ENAMELED WORK.

Report, — Commended for their admirable specimens of enameled objects of art, techni-
cally known as cloisonni and champ levi work. They show vases, plates, and other articles
in this decorative style, which, for superiority of color and finish, graceful detail of orna-
mentation, and distinctiveness of outline, place these productions among the really artistic
treasures of this Exhibition.

78. Elkington & Co., Birmingham, England.

ELECTRO-PLATED WARE.

Report, — Commended for rare conceptions and designs m examples of decorative table
plate, dinner and dessert services complete, and many other objects for domestic use, in
electro-silver and electro-gold and oxidized silver ornamentation, with also electrotype repro-
ductions of masterpieces shown at former Exhibitions. Commended for great mechanical
excellence, original and ingenious devices, fine modeling and artistic work in the precious
metals, of the most distinguished character.

79. Valentine Sazikof, St. Petersburg, Russia.

SILVER WARE.

Report, — ^An exhibition of much novelty and fascination. Commended for chased silver
tea ware, tankards, and vases wrought in repouss6, various ornamental pieces, niello
work, combinations of brilliant colored enamel and gilt work, and representations of silk
and other fabrics in gold an<i silver designs of genuine artistic character.

80. John Khlebnikof, Moscow, Russia.

SILVER WARE. ,

Report. — ^The silver articles and enameled ware in this collection are interesting speci-
mens of the silversmith's art.

81. P. Ovtchinnikof, Moscow, Russia.

SILVER WARE.

Report. — Richly chased silver work and decorated silver utensils of novel character and
excellence, chiseled and engraved work that is highly meritorious, fine enameling on silver
in Byzantine character, and silver-gilt goods in Russian style, a resemblance of damask
napkins in white silver with colored enameled borders, resting upon gold and silver baskets;
very ingenious conceits. The productions of this exhibitor are worthy of distinguished
mention.

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28 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

82. Andrew Postnikof, Moscow, Russia.

SILVER WARE.

Report. — Silver ware, ingenious representation of damask, varied and fine metal work,
and metal-mounted albums in old Russian style.

83. N. Ivanof, St. Petersburg, Russia.

SILVER WARE AND GILDED UTENSILS.

Report. — Silver ware, tankards, and gilded utensils, well-modeled groups of marked ex-
cellence, with true feeling and expression.

84. A. Semenof, Moscow, Russia.

SILVER WARE.

Report. — He exhibits tea and other utensils of silver with niello work and rich gildings,
illustrating patient industry and ingenious labor.

85. Henry Steiner, Adelaide, South Australia.

SILVER PRODUCTS.

Report. — An exhibition of native silver work, vases, and inkstands, ingeniously combined
in mounting the eggs of the emu.

86. J. M. Wendt, Adelaide, South Australia.

SILVER WARE.

Report. — Commended for fancifully combining the egg of the emu in ornamental silver
work as an inkstand.

87. Simons, Opdyke, & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

GOLD AND SILVER WORK.

Report. — Gold mounted walking-canes and batons; also gold, gold-enameled, and
silver thimbles. An excellent exhibition of varied designs and superior work.

88. Joseph Zasche, Vienna, Austria.

PORCELAIN AND ENAMEL PAINTING.

Report. — Porcelain and enamel painting and personal ornaments of truly artistic character
and superior execution.

89. Tiffany & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

SILVER WORK.

Report. — Q)mmended for their display of silver table and tea services and general house-
hold silver ware in great completeness. Their exhibit comprises also vases, notably the
Bryant vase, yacht prizes, race cups, including that of the American Jockey Club, and many
ornamental and presentation pieces, with other varied artistic productions in the predoos
metals, of distinguished character. They also exhibit a number of jewel-hilted and richly
decorated presentation swords, made to order, and of such merit that the judges are at a
loss to class them as among the productions of the silver worker or of the jewelers* art.
Conmiended for the genuine excellence of this extensive exhibit, variety of treatment, with
novel niello work and inlaid decorations, chased designs, and repouss6 execution, originality,
taste, and artistic expression.

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GROUP XL

90. P. L. Krider, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SOLID SILVER TABLE AND HOLLOW WARE.

Report. — Solid silver table and hollow ware of good general character, with engraved
ornamentation of excellence.

91. Qorham Manufacturing Co., Providence, R. I., U. S.

SILVER WARE.

Report, — They exhibit sterling silver dinner services, tea ware, epergnes, race cups, prize
and presentation pieces, knives, forks, spoons, and articles for domestic use, almost infinite
in variety and purpose ; also silver-soldered electro-plated on German-silver hollow ware
and flat-rolled table goods. A very complete display of the same general character, and
of practical quality and artistic excellence. Commended for great diversity of patterns and
originality of designs ; for repoussi, chased, and decorative work, with superior mechanical
execution and marked excellence of material, both in solid silver and in plated ware. The
** Century Vase" in solid silver, the grand central object of their exhibit, is a large and
attractive group in sterling silver, illustrating the United States in this centennial year.
It is a meritorious and admirable achievement, original in composition, skillful and elabo-
rate in character, and of artistic excellence.

92. V. Christesen, Copenhagen, Denmark.

SILVER WARE AND REPOUSS6.

Report, — Commended for creditable work and tasteful designs. She exhibits solid silver
ware repouss^ of excellent design and workmanship; also chased work. The centre*
piece and tea set of solid silver are meritorious.

93. Th. OUen, Bergen, Norway.

A COLLECTION OF SILVER ORNAMENTS.

Report, — Commended for meritorious excellence of workmanship.

94. National Museum, Cairo, Egypt.

GOLD AND SILVER FILIGREE.

Report. — Commended for tasteful designs and fine workmanship. The National Museum
of Cairo exhibits an interesting collection of gold and silver filigree, which is stated to be
the work of the negroes of Nubia. They certainly evince a considerable degree of ad-
vance in native taste and skill, and deserve encouragement.

95. Watson & Co., Bombay, India.

GOLD AND SILVER JEWELRY.

Report. — A novel exhibition of native jewelry and ornaments in gold and silver filigree
work; also native repoussi work in gold ornaments and in silver utensils, of marked
excellence.

96. Z. Tsuzawa, Kanazawa, Kaga, Japan.

SILVER WARE.

Report. — A chased silver box, an exact reproduction of an artistic French model ; inge-
nious and careful work.

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97. Lee Ching, Canton, China.

GOLD FILIGREE WORK.

Report, — Commended for attractive gold filigree ornaments, combined with carvings of
the beaks of the cassowary, and ^or ivory work.

98. Ho-A-Ching, Canton, China.

SILVER WARE.

Report, — Commended for his exhibit of chased silver tea ware, tankards, cups, goblets,
and vases, illustrating ingenious and patient industry.

99. Wilhelm Binder, S. Gmfind, Germany

SILVER WARE.

Report, — Conmiended for creditable execution of cheap silver goods.

100. Humbert & Heylandt, Berlin, Germany.

SILVER WARE.

Report, — Conmiended for faithful copies in silver (galvanoplastic) of the celebrated
treasures of Hildesheim.

loi. Koch & Bergfeld, Bremen, Germany.

SILVER WARE.

Report, — Commended for excellence of manufacture of silver ware in renaissance.

102. Soergel & StoUmeyer, S. Gmiind, Germany.

SILVER THIMBLES.

Report, — Silver thimbles of moderate price and numerous styles.

103. Gabler Brothers, Schomdorf, Germany.

SILVER THIMBLES.

Report, — Silver thimbles of moderate price and varied patterns.

104. Hu Kwang Yung, Hang Chow, China.

BRONZES.

Report. — Commended for his remarkably conspicuous and interesting collective exhibit
of cloisonne enameled vases, and many other utensils, and old bronzes, attractive as rare
specimens of both ancient and modem Chinese art.

105. Ho Kan Chen, Shanghai, China.

BRONZES.

Report. — Commended for his interesting collective exhibition of Chinese antique art
bronzes of varied age, character, and purpose.

X06. Yazayemon Yokoyama, Takaoka, Echiu, Japan.

BRONZES.

Report, — Commended for a bronze censer with birds and quaint figures; chiseled work-
manship of the best character in simple and artistic style.

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GROUP XI. 31

107. R. Muroya, Takaoka, Echiu, Japan.

BRONZES.

Report, — Commended for bronze censers ; also candlesticks composed of representations
of birds, fabulous or otherw^, such as the ibis or stork, stai^ding upon a turtle. It is notice-
able that these same combinations are also to be foimd among the antique bronzes of Pompeii.

108. A. U. Shinoyama, Kiyoto, Japan.

BRONZE ORNAMENTS, INIAID.

Report, — Commended for sweetmeat boxes and small bronze articles of use, inlaid, and
fnth different metals in relief; delicate and tasteful work.

109. Zenbeye Shirasaki, Takaoka, Bchiu, Japan.

BRONZES.

Report, — ^A bronze censer and candlesticks, very elaborate and exquisite in design, and
of distinguished excellence.

1 10. Kanaya Gorosaburo, Kiyoto, Japan.

BRONZES.

Report, — Interesting specimens of tinted bronze tea ware, vases, goblets, and boxes of
superior excellence.

111. Yasobye Kawamura, Kiyoto, Japan.

BRONZES.

Report, — ^Bronze and silver tea and coffee utensik, novel in color from especial alloys,
and of good workmanship.

112. Kawara-bayashi Hidekuni, Kiyoto, Japan.

BRONZES.

Report, — Bronze tea ware, fine in shape and tasteful in decoration.

113. Yeske Shomi, Kiyoto, Japan.

BRONZES.

Report, — Bronze vases, boxes, and trays, with figures in high relief; dexterous and truly
artistic work.

1 14. Honma Takusai, Sado Island, Japan.

BRONZES.

Report, — Finely cast bronze statuettes and articles of utility in ingenious and varied
colors.

115. Koji Yamakawa, Kanazawa, Kaga, Japan.

BRONZES.

Report, — Interesting specimens of bronze utensils and vases richly inlaid and highly
decorated in varied colors, some of which are graceful in shape.

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1 1 6. Chinso Hiraoka, Tokio, Japan.

BRONZES.

Report, — Very superior bronze vases chiseled in relief, with gold and silver decorations
in varied colors.

117. Soyemon Momose, Tokio, Japan.

BRONZES.

Report, — A pair of fine bronze vases with well-modeled human figures ; excellent work.

118. Soshichi Kanamori, Takaoka, Echiu, Japan.

BRONZES.

Report, — Dark bronze vases and jardinieres richly inlaid with silver; elaborate and
painstaking work, of superb character, and admirable in form.

119. Saito Zenbeye, Tokio, Japan.

BRONZES.

Report, — A remarkable bronze vase of varied colors, with figures in relief, and incrssta-
tions of gold and silver, illustrating native story.

120. Mizuno Genroku, Kanazawa, Kaga, Japan.

BRONZES.

Report, — Bronze vases, caskets, and utensils of ingenious workmanship and pleasing
character.

121. Chiokito Suzuki, Tokio, Japan.

BRONZES.

Report, — Bronze censers and vases of unrivaled character. One large vase especially
remarkable, the decorations of which, illustrating the weak the prey of the strong, with
the handles composed of groups of birds, half a score or more in number, ingemously
suspended in divers positions, is admirably modeled, and cast in one piece.

122. Count Stolberg-Wemigerode's Works, Ilsenburg, Germany.

REPRODUCTIONS.

Report. — Excellent iron cast reproductions of ancient repouss^ work*

123. Conrad Felsing, Berlin, Germany.

REPRODUCTIONS.

Report, — Zinc or imitation bronzes of patriotic monuments and persons, at moderate
prices.

124. B. Boschetti, Rome, Italy.

ART BRONZES.

Report, — A collection of Corinthian bronze statuettes, reproduction of the antiques.

Commended for manifest artistic excellence and faithful rendering of the spirit of the

original.

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GROUP XL 33

125. Nicholas Stange, St. Petersburg, Russia.

BRONZE WORK.

Report. — Commended for his exhibit of nickel-silvered bronze chandelier, candelabra,
and lamps, of elaborate designs in strictly Russian style, with finely chiseled work, of
interesting character.

126. Felix Chopin, St. Petersburg, Russia.

BRONZES.

Report. — His bronzes, modeled by Lanc^ri, representing groups of animal life, soldiers,
peasants, and the like, are of the highest artistic quality. The designs are native and
original, modeled admirably, and full of character and lifelike expression.

127. Susse Brothers, Paris, France.

BRONZES.

Report. — ^Artistic bronzes, cast upon models of well-known artists, excellent in finish ;
ornamental clocks of good style ; small tables in onyx and bronze ; lamp-bearers of very
fine chasing. Upon the whole, a remarkable collection.

128. Louis Marchand, Paris, France.

BRONZES.

Report. — ^A very fine collection of artistic bronzes, containing especially two important
pieces : a chimney-piece of marble and oxidized bronze, of a pure style and remarkable
finish, and a round sofa with a jardiniere in the centre, in marble and silvered bronze.
The design and chasing of the bronze ornaments are remarkable.

129. Joh. Martin Krug, Hanau, Germany.

ENAMEL PAINTING AND GOLD JEWELRY.

Report. — Commended for enamel paintings of superior execution, and for lockets, crosses,
and pendants of gold.

130. Sauvage & RUck, Paris, France.

BRONZES.

Report. — Real bronzes, copies of old Roman designs and of antique vases.

131. Henry Perrot, Paris, France.

BRONZES.

Report, — ^A collection of small artistic bronzes, very remarkable in design and chasing.

132. Louis Martin, Paris, France.

BRONZES.

Report. — ^Artistic castings of good finish.

133. Ames Manufacturing Co., Chicopee, Mass., U. S.

BRONZES.

Report. — They exhibit a colossal bronze naval group of three figures in action, with a
mortar; modeled by Larkin G. Mead, cast by this company, and destined for the Lincoln
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34 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

Monument at Springfield, Illinois. Commended for the high character of this important
work, true color of the Government standard of bronze metal, and admirable and lifelike
embodiment of the artist's conceptions.

134. MitcheU, Vance, ft Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

BRONZE AND MARBLE CLOCKS, BRONZE, AND ZINC IMITATIONS OF BRONZE.

Report. — Marble mantel clocks with mountings of real bronze, and zinc imitations of
bronze, with figures, vases, and statuettes of the same, the marble work and the metal work
of which are of general excellence.

X35. Auguste Lintelo, Brussels, Belgium.

BLACK MARBLE CLOCKS.

Report. — Black marble clocks and companion pieces of fine polish, well-engraved orna-
mentation, and good general style, at moderate cost.

136. A. H. Rodanet, Paris, France.

DECORATIVE CLOCKS.

Report. — Portable clocks of rich and artistic models of various designs.

137. Bouchet-Qravet, Paris, France.

ORNAMENTAL CLOCKS.

Report. — Ornamental clocks and light-bearers, in gilded bronze, of very good execution.

138. A. Morel, Paris, France.

DECORATIVE CLOCKS.

Report. — Commended for good style and finish.

139. J. B. Qondy ft Co., Pontarlicr, Doubs, France.

WATCH CASES.

Report. — Watch cases with portraits of historical characters, of very good execution.

140. Breguet ft Co., Paris, France.

WATCHES AND CLOCKS.

Report. — Watches and clocks with enamel ornaments of excellent design and execution.

141. C. ft A. Pequignot, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

GOLD WATCH CASES.
Report. — Gold watch cases of superior mechanical execution and artistic ornamentation.

142. Robbins ft Applcton, New York, N. Y., U. S,

GOLD AND SILVER WATCH CASES.

Report. — They exhibit three hundred and fifty gold watch cases, and fifteen hundred
silver ditto, of all varieties essential to the trade, the weekly product of their establishment
combined with the Waltham Watch Company.

Commended for excellence of mechanical work, quality of engraved and enameled deco-
rations, great variety of patterns and special designs.

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GROUP XL 35

X43. Fortenbach & Sons, CarlsUdt, N. J., U. S.

SILVER WATCH CASES.

Report, — An exhibit of silver watcb cases of varied styles, made by machinery and die-
work ; the bizzek without soldering, showing excellent and durable work, with tasteful
ornamentation.

144. Edward Favre-du-Bois, Locle, Switzerland.

ENGRAVING OF WATCH CASES.

Report, — Well-executed and faithful portraitures of Washington and Lincoln, with other
decorative work.

145. Ernest Humbert-Pourtal&s, Locle, Switzerland.

WATCH CASES.

Report, — Watch cases of novel design and superior workmanship

146. J. S. Adams & Co., Providence, R. I., U. S.

TORTOISE-SHELL GOODS — ^JEWELRY.

Report, — Commended for great variety of tasteful patterns and excellent finish generally.

147. William K. Potter, Providence, R. I., U. S.

TORTOISE-SHELL JEWELRY AND ORNAMENTS.

Report, — Commended for variety and taste in display, w ith skillful and excellent work.

148. MUo Hildreth & Co., Northboro', Mass., U. S.

TORTOISE-SHELL GOODS.

Report, — Commended for a large variety of patterns and general excellence.

149. Mariano Labriola, Naples, Italy.

TORTOISE-SHELL ORNAMENTS.

Report. — Commended for excellence of workmanship. He exhibits various ornaments
in tortoise-shell, highly creditable for their taste and delicate execution.

150. Charles Neher, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

HAIR ORNAMENTS.

Report. — Hair ornaments and fancy designs of hair-work, of good taste and creditable
excellence.

151. C. Cottier & Sons, New York, N. Y., U. S.

LAPIDARY WORK.

Report. — An exhibition of lapidary work, or imitations of gems, of fine color, well cut
and well polished.

152. Louis A. Ooldschmidt, Dubnik, Hungary, Austria.

OPALS.

Report. — ^A collection of fine Hungarian opals, set in the most advantageous and work-
manlike manner.

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36 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

153. Ettore Geraldini, Rome, luly.

MOSAICS, STONES, AND CAMEOS.

Report, — Commended for good display of pleasing designs, Byzantine mosaics, stones,
cameos, gold Etruscan ornaments, and jewelry.

154. Hoessrich & Woerfel, St. Petersburg, Russia.

ORNAMENTAL STONEWORK, MALACHITE, AND LAPIS-LAZUU.

Report. — Commended for their remarkable collection of objects in malachite, lapis-
lazuli, labradorite, rhodonite, jasper, and other Siberian stones, consisting of decorative
clocks and vases, small objects of adornment, tables, and lamps. Two very conspicuous
pieces, a chimney mantel in malachite, and a large table in the same stone. The whole
exhibition of a very high character.

155. Kraul & Bier, Hanau and Oberstein, Germany.

STONES AND CAMEOS.

Report, — Commended for choice cameos of artistic cutting.

156. Franz Bergmann, Gabions, Bohemia, Austria.

IMITATION GEMS.

Report, — Commended for imitation gems closely approaching genuine stones in color and
brilliancy.

157. His Highness the Bey of Tunis, Tunis.

PERSONAL ORNAMENTS.

Report, — Commended for an interesting exhibition of native personal ornaments in silver
and gold.

158. Collective Exhibition of Parisian Manufacturers, represented by M. Lutton,

of Paris, France.

ZINC CASTINGS.

Report. — A collective exhibition of artistic castings in zinc (imitation bronze) of excep-
tional merit.

159. T. Murakami, Kiyoto, Japan.

LACQUERED WARE, JARS, AND VASES.

Report. — Commended for novelty in black lacquered ware, as jars, vases, and tea-
caddies, on a basis of tin, gilded inside, and with bright white deoorations of ingenious
character upon the black ground.

160. Shippo Kuwaisha, Nagoya, Owari, Japan.

ENAMELED METAL.

Report. — Commended for garden or temple lanterns. Important specimens of cloisonne
work of a very remarkable character, superb in execution, and good in color.

161. £. G. Zimmermann, Hanau, Germany.

GALVANOPLASTIC IMITATION BRONZES AND ART CASTINGS.

Report. — Commended for artistic metal castings and electro-plated utensils, imitation of
bronze, oxidized goods, and statuettes.

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SIGNING JUDGES OF GROUP XI.

The numbers annexed to the names of the Judges indicate the reports written foy then
respectively.

Martin P. Kennard, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 45, 50, 52, 53, 57, 58, 63, 76, 77, 78, 79,
80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 89, 90, 91, 95, 96, 97, 98, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109,
no, III, 112, 113, 114, 115, 116, 117, 118, 119, 120, 121, 124, 125, 126, 133, 134, 13s,
141, 142, 143, 144, 150, 151, 159, 160.

Peter Gottesleben, 62, 67, 68, 72, 73, 146, 147.

G. H. Heap, i, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 54, 65, 66, 69, 70, 71, 74, 75, 92, 93, 94, 149, 153.

roulxeaux dugage, 1 54.

Julius Diepenbach, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21,
22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 43, 44, 46, 47, 48, 49, 51, 55, 56, 59, 60, 61, 64, 88,
99, 100, loi, 102, 103, 122, 123, 127, 128, 129, 130, 131, 132, 136, 137, 138, 139, 140,
145, 148, 152, 155, 156, 157, 158, 161.

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SUPPLEMENT TO GROUP XL

REPORTS

JUDGES ON APPEALS.

JUDGES.

John Fritz, Bethlehem, Pa.
Edward Conley, Cincinnati, Ohio.
Charles Staples, Jr., Portland, Me.
Ben J. F. Britton, New York City.
H. H. Smith, Philadelphia, Pa.

Coleman Sellers, Philadelphia, P^
James L. Claghorn, Philadelphia, Pa.
Henry K. Ouver, Salem, Mass.
M. WiLKiNS, Hanisburg, Oregon.
S. F. Baird, Washington, D. C.

I. Prosper Schryvers, Brussels, Belgium.
a panel for a door in forged wrought-iron work.
Report. — Commended for the surpassing skill exhibited by the artisan, and tasteful de-
sign. This is a grape-vine with its leaves, branches, and fruit fabricated in wrought iron,
with the hammer, by an exceedingly skillful workman, displaying so much ability that it
might be classed in the art department.

2. John Neal, London, England.
gold jewelry.
Report, — Commended for the solid, substantial character of the articles exhibited, in the
originality and chaste elegance of their designs, in the skillful workmanship exhibited in
the mounting and setting of the gems, general fine finish, and ingenuity in fabrication,
necklaces being so made that they can be changed into a pair of bracelets and a brooch,
and vice versa.

3. Charles Williams, St. Louis, Mo., U. S.

TENNESSEE, ITAIXAN, AND MISSOURI MARBLE WORK; JEWEL BOX.

Report, — ^Well-made examples of fine marble work of tasty designs.

4. Edward Miller & Co., Meriden, Conn., U. S.

BRONZED ORNAMENTS.

Report, — Commended for good designs and execution in cheap imitation, bronzed orna-
ments.

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GROUP XL 39

5. H. Muhr's Sons, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

GOLD FINGER RINGS, SOLID AND FILLED.

Report, — Commended for the excellence and low prices of the goods and the taste dis*
played in their design and finish. This is an exhibit of some four hundred varieties of
plain gold and other finger rings in amethyst, topaz, garnet, and other stones, cameos and
intaglios; very commendable.

6. J. W. Klintbcrg & Co., Wisby, Sweden.

JEWELRY MADE OF PETRIFACTIONS.

Report, — Commended for the novel idea of utilizing a material of little value intrinsically,
but of great beauty when properly prepared, and thus producing cheap jewelry of good
quality. In this exhibit fossils, such as corals, are ground and polished and mounted in
gold, or in some cases in silver gilt.

SIGNING JUDGES OF SUPPLEMENT TO GROUP XI.

The figures annexed to the names of the Judges indicate the reports written by them
respectively,

Charles Staples, Jr., i, 2, 5.
CoLEBCAN Sellers, 3, 4, 6.

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GROUP XII.

LEATHER AND MANUFACTURES OF LEATHER.

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GROUP XIL

JUDGES.

r, H. PiERPOiNT, Fairmount, Marion County, W. Va.
John Cummings, Boston, Mass.
Thomas Miles, Philadelphia, Pa.
J» Parks Postles, Wilmington, Del.

M. GciCT wa£ temporarily assigned from Group XVII to assist in the examination of

Icfither.

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GROUP XII.

LEATHER AND MANUFACTURES OF LEATHER, INCLUDING
BOOTS, SHOES, TRUNKS, Etc.

{For Harness and SaddUry, in part, see Group XVIL)

Hides and skins, salted or dried.

Leather of all kinds. f

Parchment, vellum, etc.

Boots and shoes.

Trunks, and traveling equipments, in part ; mail-bags.

Belting, cords, straps, etc.

Harness and saddlery. (See Group XVII.)

Class 532. — Machines for preparing and working leather.

Class 533. — ^Machines for making boots and shoes.

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GENERAL REPORT

OF THE

JUDGES OF GROUP XII.

International Exhibition, 1876.
Prof. F. A. Walker, Chief of Bureau of Awards :

Sir, — We furnish herewith the general report of the Judges upon
J^eather and Leather Manufacture. •

Respectfully yours,

JOHN CUMMINGS,
THOMAS MILES,
J. PARKE POSTLES.

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INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, iSrd.

GROUP XII.
LEATHER AND MANUFACTURES OF LEATHER

BY THOMAS MILES.

The Judges of Group XII., after completing their examination, can
but express their pleasure at the extensive and varied exhibition,
embracing every variety from an infant's shoe to a man's cavalry boot.

GREAT BRITAIN AND COLONIES.

The exhibit of boots and shoes in the English department was
small, but of a very superior quality, consisting of hand-stitched
men's and women's work, of all the finer styles of boots, gaiters, and
high and low shoes. The boot-legs and uppers were very superior ;
the stitching was elaborate ; the work sewed by the American Mc-
Kay sole-sewing machine was of a very heavy and substantial char-
acter; and the workmanship and finish were excellent They also
exhibited a lock-stitch wax-thread sole-sewing machine (we should
say an improvement on the McKay, using its horn) displaying con-
siderable skill. It is a very heavy and well-built machine, and the
work sewed on it was of a strong, heavy, and durable quality.

CANADA.

An extensive exhibit of men's, women's, misses', and children's
boots, gaiters, high and low shoes, hand-stitched, McKay machine-
sewed, heavy-pegged work, etc. Some of the hand-stitched work
was very fine, of superior finish, and compared favorably with the best
work exhibited.

The McKay machine-sewed and heavy-peg work was of a strong,
substantial character, full in width, and suitable for home trade, but
in finish and workmanship it does not compare with that of some other
countries. The only piece of shoe-machinery on exhibition was a
peg-break. As it was not put in operation we could not judge of its

merits.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XII, 3

VICTORIA.
An exhibit of men's and women's fine hand-stitched boots, gaiters,
and shoes, very excellent in material and workmanship. For style,
finish, and proportions they compared favorably with any exhibited.

FRANCE.

The exhibit of boots and shoes was quite extensive, principally of
the finer grades of work for men. All the styles and patterns of fine
hand-stitched and pump work were represented.

Of women's goods there was a very elaborate display of silk, satin,

embroidered and painted, with lace and a variety of trimmings, intended

for stage and party purposes, etc. ; also some kid and plain work. It

was a handsome display.

GERMANY.

The exhibit of boots and shoes was very small. From Mayence
came a very superior exhibit of hand-stitched men's gaiters, high
and low shoes, and McKay (American) machine-sewed shoes, which
were of good material and firm, solid work; but the finish was not
fine. Some military and hunting boots were exhibited as novelties.

AUSTRIA.

There were only three exhibits of boots and shoes, — a very small
representation of that branch of industry. From Vienna was an ex-
hibit of hand-sewed men's and women's toilet slippers, tastefully and
neatly trimmed; a fair article.

RUSSIA.

The exhibit of boots and shoes was small, comprising men's hand-
sewed riding, hunting, and dress boots and shoes, with fine peg-work ;
also fishermen's heavy boots, galoches, etc. ; also women's satin, silk,
and kid gaiters, slippers, etc. ; stage and fancy shoes in a variety of
styles, displaying taste and excellence of workmanship ; with some
cheap grades of work. There was a very extensive exhibit of calf-
skins fair (unblacked), boot and gaiter fronts, crimped and uncrimped ;
also horse-hide uncut skins. The calf-skins were of very superior
tannage, very fine texture, and beautiful grain. Horse-hide leather
was shown very fine, soft, and mellow; also colt-skins, finished and
dyed for gloves, which were very fine.

ITALY.

An extensive exhibit of men's and women's boots and shoes, etc.
Hand-stitched work in a large variety for men's riding, hunting, and

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4 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

plain boots, gaiters, high and low shoes, etc. Women's silk, satin,
and kid button and lace gaiters of generally good material and work-
manship. Also an exhibit of lasts and forms for shoemakers, boot-
and shoe-trees, stretchers, etc., the designs and proportions of which
were very good.

SPAIN.

A large exhibit, consisting of men's hand-stitched work, in a
variety of patterns and styles ; women's pump or thin-sole work, of
satin, silk, and kid ; and goiters, slippers, etc., with styles to suit the
Andalusian ladies, the workmanship and material of which were
generally excellent There was also an extensive exhibit of list and
woven uppers and hemp-sole shoes, intended for army and peasant
use, at extremely low prices.

The women's riding bridles and saddles from Madrid constituted a
very superior exhibition of taste, skill, and substantial workmanship.
The Andalusian bridles and saddlery from Malaga were a very
superior exhibit of this class of work, with elaborate ornamentation
in embroidering, etc., to suit the taste of Andalusia.

PORTUGAL.

An extensive exhibit of men's, women's, and children's boots, shoes,
and gaiters, hand-stitched and pump boots, shoes, and gaiters, of a
variety of patterns and styles ; and satin, silk, and kid button and
lace gaiters, got up for party and dress occasions, of very fine mate-
rial and excellent workmanship. There was, moreover, a large ex-
hibit of wood-sole shoes with patent-leather uppers, very handsomely
stitched ; also some plain goods with beaded list, and carpet shoes at
low prices.

LUXEMBURG.

A small but good exhibit of boots and shoes ; men's hand-stitched
and screwed, high shoes, army brogans, screwed ; and heavy mining
shoes, hob-nailed, of prime material and very substantial ; also fine
hand-made gaiters, etc., for men and women.

NORWAY.

The exhibit of boots and shoes was small, but generally of very
excellent quality, including men's and women's hand-sewed boots,
gaiters, shoes, etc., of superior workmanship and material, with some
peg and cheaper grades of work.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIL 5

SWEDEN.

The exhibit of boots and shoes was very excellent, consisting prin-
cipally of hand-stitched men's boots, gaiters, etc. ; riding, walking,
cork-soled, patent-leather, tongue boots, of superior workmanship
and material ; also some superior peg-work, and a small exhibit of
women's satin, French kid gaiters, etc.

BELGIUM.

The exhibit of boots and shoes was extensive, and embraced some
very superior hand-sewed work for men and women ; also screw and
cheap grades of work.

CHINA.

An illustrated exhibit of the Imperial Government, consisting of
the shoes peculiar to the country, deposited by the Imperial Maritime
Customs of Shanghai, Amoy, Canton, Chefoe, Minchang, and Chin-
king. These were instructive and interesting, as illustrating the tastes
and customs of the people in this respect in the different parts of the
Empire.

BRAZIL.

A very extensive exhibit of shoes ; McKay machine-sewed, French
screw-machine, and hand-sewed shoes, from the House of Correction,
etc., of excellent material, and good, fair, substantial workmanship,
with lasts or forms for men's, women's, and children's goods; also a
collective exhibit from Rio de Janeiro and different provinces of the
Empire, consisting of hides, skins, leather, saddles, etc. ; an instruct-
ive exhibit, illustrating the different animals of Brazil, and the condi-
tion of the leather industry, etc., in the different parts of the Empire.

ARGENTINE REPUBLIC.

The exhibit of boots and shoes was quite extensive, comprising
hand-stitched riding boots and gaiters of good workmanship, with
excellent taste, style, and material ; together with cheaper grades of
work, made very substantially ; also a large collective exhibit, made by
the Government, representing the different provinces of the Republic,
consisting of boots, leather, dry-salted, and dry-flint hides, goat- and
sheep-skins, and skins of different animals of the country.

The exhibit was intended to illustrate the resources of the country
in hides and skins for export or home consumption, and the progress
of the leather and shoe industry of the country.
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6 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

CHILI.

A fair exhibit of fine hand-sewed men's enameled leather riding
boots, fancy congress gaiters, women's satin gaiters, etc., of excellent
workmanship and good material, taste, and style.

VENEZUELA.

A very handsome exhibit of men's, boys', and women's fine hand-
sewed and fine copper-nail, bevel-edge boots and gaiters, cloth-
embroidered slippers, and women's and misses' gaiters and slippers,
of very superior workmanship and material, and excellent taste and
style.

UNITED STATES.

A very extensive exhibit of men's, women's, boys', youths', misses',
children's, and infants' kid, goat, serge, silk, satin, etc., of finest hand-
made and machine-sewed work, in every conceivable design, with
heavy kip, grain, and wax upper leather boots, brogans, etc., made
pegged, sewed, screwed, and nailed, suitable for the farmer, miner,
and laboring classes, with a great variety of lower grades, at very
reasonable prices, to supply the masses. The shoe-machinery and
wax-sewing machines were deserving of especial mention, as a very
extensive exhibit adapted to the manufacture of the shoe. There
were dies and press for uppers and soles ; wax-thread-sewing machines
for fitting leather uppers ; the silk- and thread-sewing machines for
fine-class work, with elaborate, fancy, and embroidered stitching, not
surpassed by any country in the world; the McKay sole-sewing
machine, used in most foreign countries, as well as all through the
United States, and the Goodyear welt- and turn-sewing machine,
also the Cutlan turn-sewing machine and others, with a variety of
screw-, nail-, and pegging-machines ; the McKay lasting-machine, for
placing the upper over last, with tacker to fasten the upper to the
insole, after adding outsoles ready for sewing; sole-moulding ma-
chine, for moulding the sole to the bottom of the lasts ; edge-turner,
edge-setter, heeling-machines, heel-burnishers, sand-paper machines,
sole-stripping machines, rollers, skiving- and splitting-machines, and
revolving and beam sole-die machines, with a variety of other ma-
chines we have not space to enumerate. These machines are mostly
adapted to both foot- and steam-power ; they displayed considerable
skill and ingenuity in construction, and the work was done in a
very efficient, rapid, and masterly manner. While we are not willing
to accord to all the machines the great economy claimed by exhibitors

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XII, 7

over hand-labor, we are satisfied that use of many of the machines
will save labor and that they will do their work in an efficient and work-
manlike manner. There was also an extensive exhibit of shoe-rasps,
files, knives, and tools of great variety for the fitter and sole-finisher,
very skillfully made; also eyelet-setters, button-fasteners, patterns
of zinc and paper for the uppers and soles of shoes, artistically de-
signed and correctly graded; shoe-rivets and machines for setting
the same ; lasts or forms, boot- and shoe-trees, stretchers, in large
variety and designs; boot- and shoe-crimping machines, doing the
work very rapidly and efficiently, and a variety of machines and tools
for the manufacturer not enumerated.

When we take into consideration the extensive exhibits displayed
in the Shoe and Leather Building, where not over ten per cent, of
the tanners and manufacturers were represented, we congratulate the
Commission on the increase and development of that branch of
our industry.

REPORT ON LEATHER, AND MACHINERY USED IN
ITS MANUFACTURE.

Nearly every nation in the world was represented in the leather
department, and the exhibits were most interesting and instructive.
The various kinds and qualities of leather adapted to the wants of
peoples separated from each other by climate and race, influenced in
their designs and tastes by the most widely-different customs and
habits, were nearly all brought under one roof, and could be easily
compared.

A notable feature of this exhibition of the leather products of the
world was the rare opportunity it afforded to measure the improve-
ment which modern science has effected in the art of tanning, and
this improvement was to be remarked in the manufactures of some
of the new colonies, as well as in those of the older countries. This
exhibition of the leather of the world will stand alone among Exhi-
bitions for its completeness, variety, and excellence, and as a point
from which to mark and note the improvements in inventions of the
future.

GREAT BRITAIN.

This exhibit of leather was lamentably small. There was but one
exhibit of sole leather; and, while this showed a good degree of skill
in the preparation of the hide, it also showed an imperfect tannage.
Morocco, in fancy colors, for bookbinding, satchels, pocket-books,
upholstery, and fancy leather-work, also Russia leather, and sheep-^

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8 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

skins and skivers, in a great variety of colors and finish, evinced the
highest skill, especially in the coloring and finishing, and took rank
with the best goods of this class in the Exhibition.

NEW SOUTH WALES.

This exhibit, while not as large and varied as those of some of the
older nations, was very creditable to so new a country. The sole
leather gave evidence that this department of industry was in the
hands of men of skill and enterprise. A notable part of the ex-
hibit was leather made from kangaroo-skins, and the patent and
enameled leather made from these skins was remarkable for fineness
and toughness of grain.

The large production of hides and skins of this country, together
with its great supply of tanning materials, promises to make this one
of its most important industries.

AUSTRALIA.

A small variety of leather was exhibited. It was very noticeable
for high skill and workmanship and in the perfection of the manufac-
ture. It is apparent from this limited exhibit that this country has
the means of producing leather of a high standard, and that its people
are able to make this industry most valuable.

CANADA.

The exhibit of leather, entirely of hemlock tannage, was not very
extensive. It showed skill and good workmanship. It comprised
upper, sole, and harness leather.

FRANCE.

A large and varied assortment of leather of all kinds was exhib-
ited. The sole leather, tanned with oak-bark, showed high skill in
the preparation of the hide, causing a minimum loss of hide material
in the process ; it was of superior quality, and indicated the highest
integrity in the manufacture. The calf-skins were none of them fully
up to the high standard of French skins. The morocco, comprising
black and fancy colors, black glace and fancy-colored kid, fully sus-
tained the high reputation which it has long maintained. It was notice-
able for its elasticity, pliability, and toughness, and for the delicacy
of shades, depth, bloom, and permanence of color.

The glace kid is worthy of special mention for its mellowness,
toughness, and its exceedingly beautiful and permanent gloss. The
skins are usually tanned open, with Sicilian sumac.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XII, 9

GERMANY.

A small amount of sole leather, finished and unfinished, which did
not indicate any noticeable degree of skill in its manufacture, was
exhibited. The morocco, kid, etc., of black and fancy colors for
shoes, colors for bookbinding and fancy leather-work, glace kid, and
white and colored kid-skins for gloves, etc., evinced high skill and
integrity and the most careful and intelligent attention to the details
and processes of manufacture, especially in the preparatory processes
and tanning, and the coloring and finishing of fancy colors for book-
binding and fancy leather-work. The exhibit of kid-skins for gloves
was remarkable for fineness of texture, elasticity, etc.

AUSTRIA.

This exhibit was quite extensive in variety of production, and
evinced a good degree of skill and workmanship. Many kinds of
upper leather were highly creditable to the producers.

The black and fancy-colored moroccos and white kid-skins, for
shoes and fancy leather-work, showed high skill in the manufacture.
The fancy colors were noticeable for the beauty and delicacy of color-
ing and excellence of finish which have long made Vienna's fancy
leather goods famous. The sole leather, while it was well prepared,
was faulty in not being thoroughly tanned.

SWEDEN.

A small amount of various kinds of leather was exhibited. The
upper leather was not equal to the standard of modern workmanship,
and the sole leather showed only fair skill in the preparation of the
hides, and was deficient in tannage.

NORWAY.

Sole, upper, and harness leather, of oak tannage, was exhibited.
The sole leather showed good skill and workmanship in its produc-
tion, while the upper leather, though fairly made, indicated the use of
inferior materials in the finish.

ITALY.
A limited variety of leather was exhibited. There was sole leather,
notable for its evidence of high skill and workmanship in the manu-
facture throughout, but most of the exhibit showed that the modern
means and improvements had not been used in this industry.

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lO INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

BRAZIL.

This exhibit of leather made from the skins of a great variety of
animals was notably lacking in the application of modern skill and
workmanship.

ARGENTINE REPUBLIC.

An extensive variety of upper, sole, and harness leather was ex-
hibited, of which but a small part had been manufactured by the
later methods now in use in other countries ; and it was evident that
the leather would be greatly benefited by the introduction of modern
skill and workmanship.

The manner in which the leather was exhibited was such as to
place it at a further disadvantage.

SPAIN.

This exhibit comprised quite an extensive variety of leather, but,
with few exceptions, it did not show any high degree of skill in its
production.

PORTUGAL.

A variety of calf, kip, and sole leather was exhibited. A portion
of the calf-skins were of very fine quality, while the rest were lacking
in modern skill and workmanship. Some of the sole leather was
notable for high skill in the preparation of the hide and its manufac-
ture; the rest lacked complete tannage and was deficient in skill in
the production.

TURKEY.

A variety of leather of various kinds and styles was shown. The
entire exhibit, owing to its exposed condition, had been very much
injured in appearance, and consequently was placed at a great disad-
vantage. The morocco and sheep leather appeared to be thoroughly
tanned, and some of the colors, especially the reds, blues, and yel-
lows, were very clean, strong, and beautiful. The leather showed,
however, that this country did not use the modern processes and
appliances in its manufacture, but .still adhered to its old traditions
and the processes of former times.

RUSSIA.

This exhibit comprised an extensive variety of all kinds of leather,
in a great variety of styles, for which this country has for a long time
been noted. The sole leather showed good skill in the preparation
of the hide, but it generally was deficient in tannage. The principal

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XII. n

tanning materials used are willow-bark and kermes. The upper
leather, made from calf-, kip-, and cow-hides, was shown in various
methods of preparation, and generally evinced high skill and work-
manship. The carriage leather was also quite superior in its manu-
facture. The exhibit of light leather consisted of grain-calf for shoes,
finished in imitation of morocco, and notable for its solidity and
toughness of grain; and of the famous Russia leather in black and
fancy colors, — heavy for boots, trunks, portmanteaus, etc., and light
for fine fancy-work ; and colt-skin glove leather, which was remarkable
for fineness of grain, texture, elasticity, and toughness, as well as for
beauty and evenness of colors. The whole exhibit was marked by
very high skill in its manufacture.

VENEZUELA.

A very limited exhibit, showing only a fair amount of skill. The
sole leather was not completely tanned.

UNITED STATES.

This country exhibited all kinds and varieties of leather. The larger
part of these exhibits was from the States of New York and Pennsyl-
vania. Maryland, Ohio, and Kentucky were only fairly represented
in the sole-leather department. The New England States were not
so well represented as the magnitude of this industry would have
warranted. Of hemlock sole leather the quality of the production of
this country was well represented, and it was plainly to be seen that a
high degree of intelligence had been employed in the manufacture of
these exhibits.

The improved methods of preparing the hides make it evident
that under the modern processes there is much less loss of hide-
material, much less time consumed, and much less waste of gelatin
and gluten than under the old methods, thereby producing a more
compact and durable leather. The exhibits of oak and hemlock sole
leather showed that the tanners are no longer following the old prac-
tices of the past, but are bringing to their aid the improvements which
modern science has demonstrated to be good and useful. Much of
the oak-tanned sole leather was notable for high skill and work-
manship. The leather from Ohio and Kentucky was of a high order
of excellence, thorough tannage being a marked feature in this
department.

With the exception of calf-skins the exhibit of upper leather was
not so full as was desirable or might have been expected ; and, with
a few exceptions, this leather did not indicate any high degree of

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12 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

skill or workmanship, and was not a fair standard of the quality of
the product of the country. There was a large exhibit of calf-skins,
and several of them showed a thorough knowledge of the art of man-
ufacture, and were fully equal to any on exhibition. The extensive
exhibit of harness leather, mostly of oak tannage, was marked by a
good degree of skill and excellence, and was very creditable to the
manufacturers. It is apparent that, however much difference of
opinion may exist as to the comparative merits of oak- or hemlock-
tanned sole and upper leather, there can be no doubt that the oak
tannage must claim and secure the preference for superior harness
leather.

The exhibit of morocco and light leather was not large, but was
measurably complete in its representations of the different varieties
manufactured in this country. The growth of this branch of the
leather industry has been very marked during the last twenty years,
both in the amount produced and the skill and excellence of manu-
facture, which is most apparent in the production of fancy-colored
morocco and sheep leather for shoes, bookbinding, satchels, fancy
leather-work, etc. This was illustrated by several complete and very
beautiful exhibits of this class of goods, of delicate shades and colors,
of all the different styles of finish, that rival and compete with even
those countries which have long held pre-eminence in these depart-
ments of industry. These remarks hold equally true of different
varieties of black morocco, kid, etc., of which there wer6 sf)ecimens
of very superior merit.

The most noticeable point of merit shown in American morocco,
etc., is the great care taken in the finishing processes, and the excel-
lence attained in this respect. There is evidently more care bestowed
upon the final or finishing processes than upon the earlier processes
of preparing and tanning the skins; from* which fact American mo-
rocco is noticeable for fineness and solidity of grain, depth and full-
ness of color, and clearness of gloss. It is mostly tanned with
American and Sicilian sumac separately, or a mixture of both, and
usually by sewing the skin in the shape of a bag and filling it with
the tan liquor, which is pressed rapidly through the pores of the
skin, thereby effecting the tanning much quicker than when the skins
are suspended in the liquor, allowing the tannin, the fibrin, and the
gelatin to combine by natural operation or affinity. Machines for
sewing these skins are now in almost universal use in this country.

There was exhibited but little machinery adapted to the manufac-
ture of leather, and while the machines on exhibition showed a good

degree of skill in construction and intelligence for the purposes re-

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XII. 13

quired, they were so deficient as labor-saving machines that they
could not be commended for general use.

In the Government Building there was a collection of leather made
from animals representing all the orders of the animal kingdom, from
the reptile up to man, the notable feature of the exhibit being its
variety. No high skill was indicated in the manufacture. The leather
from some of the animals was very well made, but other specimens
were below the ordinary standard. That made from the skin of the
white whale was a novelty that suggests a new resource for the tanner.

REPORT OF EXPERT ON LEATHER TESTS.

No. 149 Broadway, New York, October, 1876.

Messrs. Cummings, Miles, Postles, and Pierepoint, Judges in Group
XII., U. S. Centennial Exhibition :

I submit the following report of experiments made, under your
direction, to determine some of the qualities which affect the value
of different kinds of leather when used for the soles of shoes. These
experiments were made at the Centennial Exhibition, during this
year, on the various samples of sole-leather exhibited there.

Selection of Samples. — The Judges of leather, appointed by the
Centennial Commission, selected sixty-six sides, from all those exposed
to be experimented on. A sample was cut from each of these sides,
from that part which came nearly over the kidneys. These samples
were marked with the exhibitor's number and given to me.

Relative Dryness of the Leather. — ^These sides had all been
hanging in the Exhibition buildings since the opening day (May 10,
1876), and therefore had been in a dry room during the two months
preceding these experiments. All of the oak, union, hemlock, Rus-
sian, and South American leathers were hanging in the Shoe and
Leather Building. The others came from the Agricultural Hall or
the Main Building.

After being cut, the samples were kept, for some days, in a drawer

in a desk in the office. Although it would appear that all had had

an opportunity, extending over two months, to become equally dry,

it is not certain that they were so. The only reason I can assign, that

can practically have had any effect, is, that the floors of the building

were kept continually wet by sprinkling, to keep down the dust. It

is possible that those sides which hung nearest to the passage-ways

were affected more by the moisture arising from the floor than those

which hung farther away. The effect of this must, however, have

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INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

been neutralized during the two weeks the samples were kept in the
table-drawer before being weighed.

General Plan of Experiments. — ist. Each sample of leather was
cut from the side with the same die.
2d. The samples were all weighed.
3d. The thickness was measured.

4th. They were all thoroughly dried, at a temperature of 160^.
5th. They were all weighed, as in the dry state.
6th. They were all thoroughly washed and scoured, in cold water.
7th. They were all weighed when thoroughly saturated with water.
8th. They were all compressed by a force of two thousand pounds
per square inch.

9th. They were all dried at a temperature of 160°.
lOth. They were all weighed in the dry state,
nth. They were experimented on to determine rapidity of absorp-
tion of water, as explained hereafter.

1 2th. They were placed on grinding-machines and ground for two
hours, seven pieces being ground at the same time.
13th. They were dried again at a temf)erature of 160°.
14th. They were all weighed in the dry state, the difference between
this weight and that given at the tenth step being the loss by grind-
ing for two hours.

Size of Samples. — The samples were all cut with the same solid
steel die, which was a square, 3 ^ inches (8.89 centimetres), and there-
fore had an area of I2j^ superficial inches (7.90 centimetres).

Measurement of Thickness. — This was done with a pair of calipers
divided to y^ inch (0.0254 millimetre). Each sample was measured
in four places, and the mean of the four taken as the thickness. In
the table appended to this report the thickness of each sample is
given. The following is the mean of all samples from the same

'•l'"'|""l""l"j[|'nf"l

tUi-

T- 1 r.T f [

rnnilini

■'■'■'■'■"''''■'

nJLr

country, or the same kind of tannage. The figure represents the

calipers with which the thicknesses were measured.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XJL 15

TABLE I.

Mean thickness of all samples of leathe*' of the same tannage in the condition in which ii
was exhibited f both as to dryness and hardness of rollings and of leather »

Thickness.

English 0.290 inches. 7.366 millimetres.

Oak (American) 0.269 " 6.847 **

Australian 0.259 " 6.589 «•

Hemlock 0.244 " 6.198 "

Union 0.242 " 6.147 "

Austrian 0.242 " 6.147 "

South American 0.225 " 5.720 "

Italian 0.216 " 5486

Swedish and Norwegian . . . . 0.214 " 5«436 "

Russian 0.210 " 5.334 "

French 0.210 " 5.334 "

German 0.208 " 5.283 "

Weight of Samples. — All the samples were next weighed on a

very sensitive balance, having a capacity of ^ of a pound {0.366

kilo.), and sensitive to one grain (1.6 centigramme). The pieces

were all weighed on the same day, the whole process lasting a little

more than an hour. The variation in weight of any piece, from the

absorption of evaporation of moisture during this hour, must have

been insensibly small. The average results of this weighing are given

in Table II.

TABLE II.

Mean weight of samples (j^ inches) = 88. g centimetres (square) in the condition in which

they were exhibited^

English .

. 54.23 grammes.

Union ....

46.65 grammes.

Oak (American)

. 51.22 "

German ....

42.29 "

Hemlock

. 50.89 "

Swedish and Norwegian

41.37 "

French .

. 49.41

Italian ....

39.10 "

Australian

. 49.06 "

South American .

37.95 "

Austrian

. 48.24 "

Russian ....

36.48 ••

These are the actual weights and thicknesses in the condition ex-
hibited. How much of the variations are due to the original hide,
and how much to the hardness of rolling, or other variations in
methods and materials used in tanning, does not appear. In order to
compare the actual weights of the leather the following table has been
prepared, which gives the weight of a square foot, J^ inch thick, and
is computed for each leather, as shown in detail below for hemlock :

Weight of sample, 3^ inches square 50.89 gnunmes.

I square inch, IffJ J 4.163 "

«* 144 square inches, 4.163 X '44 .... 599.472 "

" " riff >«^ch thick, 599.472 . . 24.57 "

T% " " 24.57X25 . 601.4
I square foot, ^ inch thick =601 .4 grammes = 1.343 pounds.
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l6 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

It must be remembered that these figures only apply to the leather
on exhibition. It seems to be generally acknowledged among
leather-dealers that the oak leather on exhibition was heavier (i.e.,
thicker) than the average offered in the market, while the hemlock
and the union were about the average. The inference, then, would
be that the hemlock leather in the market is more than 12 yi per cent,
heavier than the oak, for a square foot of equal thickness.

TABLE III.
CalcMkUed mean weight of a square foot of leather of various tannages^ if X "*^^ tkicM.

French .... 1.52 pounds.
Hemlock . . . .1-37
German .... 1.31
Austrian . . . .1.29
Swedish and Norwegian . 1.25
Union . . . .1.23

Oak (American) . . .1.23 pounds.
Australian . . . . 1.23 <*
English . . . . 1.20 «*
Italian .... 1. 17 "
Russian . . . . 1.12 '<
South American . . . 1.09 *'

There was only one sample of English leather, while there were
several samples of every other kind. A fair comparison cannot be
based on one sample, and therefore the English leather must be
omitted in considering the foregoing. Omitting the English, it
appears that the oak is at the same time the thickest and the heaviest
leather on exhibition (Tables I. and II.). The relative weights of the
three American leathers are :

Oak , . loo.o I Hemlock . . 99.3 | Union . .90.1

And the relative thicknesses are :

Oak . . loo.o I Hemlock • • 90.7 | Union • .90.1

From these figures it appears that the actual weights of the oak
and hemlock leathers are nearly equal, while the hemlock is nearly
ten per cent, thinner; and, on the other hand, that the union is about
ten per cent, lighter and also ten per cent, thinner than the oak. It
would appear that there must be some essential difference in the
method of treatment of these leathers, that makes the oak and the union
leathers thicker than the hemlock, for the same weight. Whether this
difference is due to the pressure used in rolling, to some variation in
the treatment during the processes of removing the hair and flesh,
trimming, finishing, etc., or to some chemical effect of the oak- or
hemlock-bark, does not appear ; but as the oak leather, which is made
entirely from oak-bark, and the union leather, which is made from Ji
hemlock and yi oak, are nearly the same, while the hemlock leather
is ten per cent, heavier, it would not appear that the variation could
be due to the substitution of ^ hemlock-bark in place of the oak,

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIL

and therefore not to the difference in the chemical effect of the
bark.

After having been measured and weighed, as described above, the
leather was carefully and thoroughly dried and weighed again, to de-
termine how much water had been dried out. The drying was done
by exposing the leather to a current of air, heated by a gas-burner
to a temperature of 160° F. (7 1 . i ° C). The temperature was regulated
as carefully as possible, and never rose beyond 165° F. (73.3*^ C.) or
fell below 155 F. (68.9° C). The time required to thoroughly dry
the leather was about twenty-four consecutive hours, but the actual
time was longer than that, as the leather absorbed during the night,
towards the end of the drying process, almost as much as was dried
out during the day. The results of the drying are given in Table V.:

TABLE V.

Mean weight cf samples of leather of various tannages (j^ inches square) ^ when dried at

160'' F, (71.1^ C).

English .

Oak (American)

Hemlock

French .

Austrian

Australian

49.36 grammes.

46.74 "
46.10 "

44.38 "

43.93

42.94

Union . . . .
German . . . .
Swedish and Norwegian
Russian . . . .
Italian . . . .
South American

42.05 grammes.

37.79

36.94

36.79

34.88

3405

From this table the percentage of actual weight lost by drying at
160° may be computed.

TABLE VI.

Mean loss of weight, by drying at i6o^ F., by leather of various tannages, the original
weight of the leather, in the condition it was exhibited, being too.

Italian ....

10.7 per cent.

South American

. 10.2 per cent

♦ Australian

12.4

Russian .

. lO.O "

English ....

10.8

«<

Union .

. 9.9 "

♦ Swedish and Norwegian .

10.7

Hemlock

. 9-4 "

♦ German ....

10.6

i«

♦ Austrian .

. 8.9 "

* French ....

10.2

Oak (American)

. 8.8 "

The following table represents the variation in weight of a second
set of samples from all the sides of oak, hemlock, and union leather
mentioned in this report. The samples were each 2^ inches (5.27
centimetres) long by i ^ inches (3.81 centimetres) broad, and were cut
as nearly as possible from the same place as the original samples.
They were weighed every day, being allowed to lie during the interim
on a window-sill, where they were exposed to a current of air, but pro-
tected from the sun and rain. The weighing was commenced after a
season of hot, dry weather, and continued through a season of rainy

* These pieces came from Agricultural Hall or the Main Building.
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INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

weather into warm, dry weather again. All of the oak were weighed
at once, as were all the hemlock and all the union, so the variations
only show the mean for each kind of leather. The thickness of the
samples was the same as given in Table I.

It will be seen that the specimens became from 2^ to 2^ per
cent, heavier in the rainy than in the clear weather, the hemlock
varying the most, as in the case of drying at 160° F., Table VI., and
the oak the least. The difference between the variations of the oak
and hemlock are in about the same proportion as indicated in Table
VI. Thus, hemlock loses by drying at 160° 94 and oak 8.8 per cent,
the hemlock being more than the oak in the proportion of 107 to 100.
The hemlock gains, by exposure to damp air, 2^, while the oak
gains 2^^ per cent, the hemlock being more than the oak in the
proportion of 105 to 100, or nearly the same as before.

TABLE VII.

ShoTving the variation in weight of eleven pieces of oaky eight pieces of hemlock , and ten
pieces of union leather , from the variation in the temperctture, or in the hygrometric con-
dition of the atmosphere.

Datk.

WEIGHTS.

THBRMOMBTBlt.
F.

Absoluts.
{Grammes.

Rblativb.

W«T.

Dkv.

September.

Oak.

Hemlock.

Union.

Oak.

Hemlock.

Union.

De«.

D««.

•6.— A.M..

191.40

19541
194.45
193.60
193.85
193.60
19375
194.10

134.93
13540
137.35
137.90
137.2a
136.70
136-90
136.55
136.85
137.00

150.88
153-48
153-95
1.52.95
152.40
152.55
152.20
152.60
152.75

lOO.O

100.3
ZOI.8
102.1
101.5

lOI.I

101.3
101.1
101. 2
101.4

lOO.O

100.3
10X.8
102.2
10X.7
101.3
101.5
101.2
101.5
101.6

100.0
100.3
102.0
102.3
101.7
101.3
101.4

lOI.l

101.4
101.6

77
i

+7.— A.M

fc-Aiii"::::::::::

«.— P.M

• 9. — A.1I

ti 1 .—A.M •

'IX. — p.M

. 12. — A.M

•13.— A.M

♦14. — A.M

69
71

After being exposed to the atmosphere till September 14, the pieces
were placed in a warm-water bath, and the weight, after they had
been exposed to the temperature given in the table so long as not to
lose any more weight, determined. The warm-water bath consisted
of a tin box, with hollow walls and bottom, which were filled with
water. The top had a tin lid, which, during the experiment, was
closed and covered with a piece of felL The water in the walls was
heated by a lamp until the thermometer, inserted in it, showed the
temperature marked in Table VIII. The bath was 6" by 4" by 5"
inside.

♦ Clear.

t Rainy.
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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XII. 19

TABLE VIII.

Mean weight of the same pieces of leather as in Table VI I. ^ when dried in the water-hath^

at various temperatures.

Tbmpbkaturb.

WEIGHTS.

Absoluts.

Oak.

Union.

Hemlock.

Oak.

Union.

Hemlock.

Atmospheric.

120O K.

140° F.

ifoOF.

Atmospheric.

176.90

» 73.90
171.65
190.75

150.47
143. ao
138.40
X35-90
134.50
149.85

«34.93
127.60
123.80
122.15
120.45
>34.55

100.0
94.3

99.6

lOO.O

94.6

92.0

99.7

100.0
94.6
91.8

'^\

99.8

It will be noticed there is a considerable difference in the weight
lost by the various kinds of leather, the Italian losing the most and
the American- oak the least. There is also considerable variation in
the amount lost by different specimens of the same tannage, and every
specimen lost some water when warmed to a temperature of 160*^.

It has been found by experiment that every kind of wood always
contains a certain amount of water, varying, within small limits, with
the hygrometric condition of the atmosphere, but which will not per-
manently decrease, even after many years. This amount of water
varies with different kinds of woods. It is stated by various author-
ities that air-dried wood, stored for some time under sheds, will con-
tain from fourteen to sixteen per cent, of water, as compared with the
same dried at 150° F. ; and that, on being re-exposed to the atmos-
phere, it will re-absorb this fourteen to sixteen per cent, of water from
the moisture in the air. Certain materials which enter into the com-
position of leather in larger or smaller quantities, particularly salt and
lime, have the property of absorbing a considerably larger proportion
of moisture than fourteen to sixteen per cent. It may be that the vari-
ations in the proportion of moisture lost by the different samples is
due to the varying proportion of these bodies.

All leather will gain or lose in weight from the variations of the
amount of moisture contained in the atmosphere. A piece of leather
may properly be said to be dry when it will not gain or lose any
weight from continued exposure to the same atmosphere. If, how-
ever, this leather be first weighed after hanging a week or more in a
dry loft during the summer season, when the mercury ranges from
90° to 100° F.; and then, again, after a few days' rain, when the mer-
cury has fallen from 60*^ or 70° F., and all the air is charged with
fog or mist (even though no rain or water of any kind shall have

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20 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

entered the loft), it will be found to have increased in weight from i ^
to 23^ per cent.

If the same leather is laid out in the sun to dry it will, after a few
hours, be found to have fallen- short of its original weight from six to
eight per cent. The limits of variation of weight of leather under
practical circumstances are probably as follows :

Weight of leather in dry weather loo.o

" " wet " 101.5-102.5

" " dried in the sun 92-94

After being warmed to 160°, the leather was taken out of the bath
and allowed to re-absorb, from the atmosphere, as much moisture as
it would, in order to see if anything but water had been driven off.
It appears that the leather did not become as heavy again, after being
heated to 160° F., as before, the loss, however, being only -^ per cent,
in the worst case. This loss was probably some very volatile essen-
tial oils, which were vaporized at or below that temperature, and were
sensible by the very delicate odor that arose from the leather during
the first part of the drying. The loss in drying at 160° F., by this
experiment, was :

Oak . 9.2 per cent. | Hemlock . 9.5 per cent. | Union . 9.8 per cent

while the loss from drying, at the same temperature, in the experiment
given in Table VI., was :

Oak . 8.8 per cent. | Hemlock . 9.4 per cent. | Union . 9.9 per cent.

The union and the hemlock are almost the same, and the variations
in the oak are less than one-half of one per cent.

After the specimens were thoroughly dried, as shown by Table VL
they were all thoroughly washed in water having a temperature of
85°, to learn how much could be washed out. To effect this, they
were placed in an iron tank, holding about a barrel of water, the water
being continually circulated by a centrifugal pump. The pieces were
soaked in this tub for ninety-six hours, during which time the pump
was running twenty-eight hours. On being taken out of the tub, they
were each carefully examined, to see if any soluble matter remained,
which was done by rinsing them in clean water, the soluble matter,
if there were any, coming out and soiling the water. When any of
the pieces did not appear to be washed clean, they were rubbed until
they did appear to be so. It was noticed that the matter washed out
of the hemlock leather was a deep red, and that from the oak a yel-
low-white. Having been washed clean, the samples were allowed to
lie in a tub of clean water a few minutes, and then weighed while

wet ; as in that condition the leather had taken up as much water as

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIL 2I

it could hold. This weighing was done by taking the piece from the
water and laying it in a wire basket, hung from the scale-beam, and
carefully counterbalanced. The sample was not wiped off or dried,
and the weight given in the Appendix and in Table IX. includes the
little water that adhered to the leather, as well as that contained in
the pores. The water adhering to the surface was found to be less
than one-half gramme, or about two-thirds of one per cent. In this
condition the leather undoubtedly absorbed more water than before
the soluble matter was washed out, as the pores originally occupied
by the soluble matter were now empty and ready to be filled with
water.

TABLE IX.

Mean weight of samples of various tannages ^ when thoroughly saturated with water ^ after
having been previously dried at 160^ F., and all soluble matter washed out in cold water,

French .... 66.18 grammes.

Russian .... 63.88

South American . 64.64

German . . 61.22

Swedish and Norwegian . 60.69

Italian .... 60.29

The relative weight of the samples, before being washed or dried,
and when washed and thoroughly soaked, being the proportion of
water absorbed, is given in Table X. There is considerable difference
in the proportion of water absorbed, the soft and spongy leathers
generally taking up the most. The Russian and South American,
which took up the most, absorbing from seventy to seventy-five per
cent, were soft and pliable, both when wet and when dry, while the
French, which took up the least, was hard and stiff, both when dry
and when soaked. The oak, which was generally hard when dry,
usually became soft when wet, while the hemlock was hard both when
wet and dry.

TABLE X.

Mean relative weights of samples, when thoroughly soaked, and when in original condition,
the weight in the original condition being too.

English .

. 80.80 grammes.

Oak (American)

. 76.82

Australian

. 74.66 -

Hemlock

. 74.44

Austrian .

. 71.50 "

Union .

. 69.84 "

Russian

. . 175.I

English

. 148.9

South American

. 170.3

Union ....

. 148.0

Austrian

. 154.8

Swedish and Norwegian .

. 146.7

Italian .

. 154.2

Hemlock .

. 146.3

Australian

. . 152.5*

German

. 144.8

Oak (American) .

. 149.9

French ....

. . 133-8

After the pieces had been weighed in air they were weighed in
water; that is, the wire basket, in which they were placed to be
weighed, was suspended from the balance so it came beneath the sur-
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22 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

&ce of the water, in a tub below. In this arrangement, whatevei
portion of the weight of the leather was floated by the water, is re-
lieved from the weight borne by the balance ; the weight required in
the other scale-pan to counterpoise the leather, thus partly floated by
the water, represents the difference between the weight of the leather
and the weight of an equal volume of water. The pores and cells in
the leather being all filled with water, the difference is really the dif-
ference between the actual weight of the fibres and the weight of an
equal volume of water. By afterwards taking the leather from the
water and drying it, we may learn the actual weight of the fibres.
This weight is given in Table XL The weights of various samples in
water are given in the Appendix.

TABLE XL

Mean weight of samples of various tannages ^ after all soluble matter is washed out, and
the residue dried at j6o^ F»

French 3979

Hemlock 43-15

English 42.57

Oak (American) .... 42.32

Australian 39-78

Union 39-io

Austrian 38.58

German 35-15

Russian 34-28

Swedish and Norwegian .34.16

Italian ..'.... 32.21
South American .... 31.26

TABLE XIL
Portion of original weight, when dried at 160^, lost when washed and re-dried at 160^ F,
14.9 per cent

French
English
Austrian .
South American
Oak (American)
Italian

14-5

12.2

II. I

9.4

7.7

Australian . . . •7*4 per cent
Swedish and Norwegian . 7.5

Union 7.0

German . . . .6.9
Hemlock .... 6.4
Russian . . . .6.1

It will be seen, in comparing Table V. with Table XI., that there has
been a considerable change. The English, which was, before being
washed, considerably the heaviest, has lost so much weight in wash-
ing as to fall below the hemlock, which was originally third and is
now first

This loss has nothing to do with the effect of drying, for the samples
were equally dry in each case. It represents a certain amount of sol-
uble matter which is contained in the leather, and which, in a country
subject to continual or occasional rains, must sooner or later be washed
out of the soles of shoes or boofs worn out-of-doors, even if not
washed out by the manufacturer. It represents, in part, the material
which stains the stockings when new boots or shoes are worn. In
that case it is, probably, sometimes dissolved by the perspiration of

the feet. Some of the leathers, particularly the English and the

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XII. 23

French, seemed to contain a substance like clay, which was washed
out with difficulty. In dry climates, or in the case of boots and shoes
worn in the house, this filling might never be washed out, and, remain-
ing in the soles, would certainly increase the resistance to the absorp-
tion of water, and might possibly increase the resistance to attrition
or wear.

The figures in Table XIII. are the specific gravity, or the relative
weights of the fibres of the leather and an equal volume of pure
water.

The following is the method of computing, from the weight in
water and the weight of the dry fibre, at 160° F. :

Example. — Oak, No. 8038 :

Weight of sample dried at 160^ F., washed and re-dried . 40.61

" '* in water 13.07

Difference, being the weight of an equal volume of pure water 27.54

Specific gravity, i^J 1.476

This calculation was repeated for every specimen, and the mean
taken as the specific gravity of that kind of tannage. It will be seen
further on that the specific gravity of the green hide is 1.39; and as
the specific gravity of all the specimens of leather is more than this,
and as the specific gravity of those pieces which are obviously the
best tanned is the highest, I presume that the more tannin is united
with the hide the higher will be the specific gravity.

TABLE XIII.
Mean specific gravity of the washed ^ dried at 160^. Fibre of various tannages.

English 1.5200

French ^-S^AS

German . . . . . 1.4885
Swedish and Norwegian . . 1.4792
Oak (American) . . . .1.4724
H.-mlock 1.4668

Austrian 1*4644

Russian 14587

Union 1*4564

Australian 1-4457

Italian 1.4422

South American . . . .1.4125

In order to facilitate comparison, Table XIV. has been computed
from Tables III., VI., and XII.

^ TABLE XIV.

Mean weight of that portion of a square foot of leathery originally ^ inch thicks
remaining after all soluble matter is washed out, and the residue dried at 160^ F. :

Pounds.

French 1.230

Hemlock 1.143

German 1.092

Russian i*o55

Union I.043

Swedish and Norwegian . 1.032

Pounds.

Austrian 1.030

Oak (American) .... 1. 016

Australian 0.999

Italian 0.962

English 0.949

South American .... 0.899

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24 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

After the specimens were all washed, soaked, and weighed, as given
in Table X., but before being dried, as given in Table XL, they were
all subjected to a uniform pressure of two thousand pounds per square
inch, being I2j^ X 2000= 24,500 pounds on each piece. This press-
ure was selected as being about equal to that applied, in practice, in
rolling. It was applied to them by placing them under the Riehle
testing-machine in the Machinery Hall. The force was applied, in this
machine, by a hydraulic press, but the pressure was measured by a
scale-beam, as in an ordinary platform scale. The two compressing
jaws were of iron, and planed parallel. They were opened 18 inches,
and a block of wood 9 inches by 9 inches, and 16 inches long, with
ends sawed square, was placed on end on the lower jaw, and an iron
plate, turned true, 8 inches in diameter and 2 inches thick, laid on
this block. This arrangement allowed the lower jaw to accommodate
itself to the leather, which was usually a little thicker on one edge
than the other, and to press equally over the whole surface. The
samples were then placed successively under this machine, and the
hand-pump worked until the scale-beam indicated a pressure of
24,500 pounds (11,113 kilos.), being two thousand pounds per square
inch (1406 kilos, on the square millimetre), which took about one-half
minute. The machine was then stopped, the pressure relieved, the
specimen taken out, and another substituted. During the time the
pressure was being applied, the water was forced freely from the sam-
ples. When the pressure was relieved the leather did not appear to
recover its original thickness, but remained as pressed, being, perhaps,
three-fourths as thick as when wet. The samples increased in size
from 3^ inches to 3^ inches square, under the combined influence
of the pressure and the water, and shrunk, after being dried, to about
3^ inches square, returning, however, when exposed to the natural
atmosphere, to their original size o{ $j4 inches. After being taken
from the testing-machine, the .samples were dried, at 160*^ F., with
the result already given in Table XI.

The object of this compressing was to be sure all the specimens
were equally hard in the experiments which were to follow. It was
considered that all specimens had been relaxed, under the influence
of the water and rubbing, and that a perfectly equal and a perfectly
even pressure on all would bring them into the same state of hardness
or compactness.

The next experiment after drying, the results of which are given
in Table XL, was to determine the rapidity with which each specimen
would take up water. This was done by dipping each specimen,
singly, into water, and allowing it to remain ten seconds, taking it

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XII. 25

out, wiping it off on a damp cloth, and weighing it carefully. This
was repeated twenty-three times for each piece of leather. The whole
time each piece was under water was therefore 23 >< 10 = 230 sec.
= 3 min. 50 sec. The wiping off and weighing occupied about
one minute for each experiment, so the whole time occupied by the
whole experiment was about twenty-seven minutes. Generally the
samples were nearly saturated during the twenty-three dips, and in
some cases were saturated before the twenty-third dip was reached,
so that, during the last few dips, the weight did not increase. The
mean results of this experiment are' given in the Appendix, but
the mean results for each kind of leather are given in Table XVI.
The unit of weight is the weight of the leather at the time it was
dipped, being the weight of the washed sample, dried at 160° F., and
including the moisture it had absorbed in the interval elapsing between
the time it was weighed, after being dried, and the time it was dipped,
which interval varied from six hours to two weeks.

TABLE XVI.

The mean relative weight of samples of leather of various tannages^ the weight when
washed and dried in open air being 100, after successive imnursions in water during
an interval of ten seconds ^ cu follows :

Number op
Immsrsion.

4 •
5"
6.

9"
io~
xz~

Z3...

X3-.

14..

15"
16-
17..
18..
19-
ao..

31..

2a„
as-

xoo.o
107.3

ZZI.O
114.5
II0.3

118.7
320.4

133.3
123.0
134.1
135.3
126.3
127.1
137.6
138.1

138.6
139.1

139.5
139.9
130.3

«3o.5

130.7
1308
130.9

103-3
X05.8

108 5
110.1

TI3.1

113.9
115.8
117.6

H9 3

132.6
132.0

"3 3
"43
125-3
126.2
127.3
127.9
128 7
129.3
129.9
130-7
130.9
131. X

100.0
102.1
104.6
106 7
108.9
111.3
"3 3
115.1
116.8
118.3
119. 7

131. 0
X33.O
124.6
136.3
127.4

138.8
X30-3
X3X-4
132.9

134-3
1358
J37.3
X38-7

100.0

113.x
117.3
120.3
132.7
131.2
126.4
127.9
129.3
130.4

«3X-4
132.3
>33.o
133-9
X34.4
"34-9
X35.6
136.3
136.5
136.9
«37.3
137-7
137-9
138.3

lOO.O

104.0

X03.4

112. 3

"5 4
x.7.8
X19.8

X21.7

X33.0
134.7
135.3
136.1

126.8
X37.5
128.0
128.4
X38.8
139.0
139.3
139.5
129.7
129.9
X30.0
130.0

100.0
105.0
108 9
X12.1
114.8
"7-5
119. 1
121.9
133 8
125.5
126.9
128.2
129.3
130.3
130-3
«3» 4
131-9
^32.3
132.8
»33.o
1334
133.6
«33.7
134.0

S
O

100.0
J05.7
109.0
111.6
114.0

115.7
116.9
118.9

I30.1
121.7
133.8
133.9
"4.3
125.7
136.4
127.1
137.6
138.4
128.8
139.x
130.3
130.7
131.0
131.3

100.0
103.6
107.7
1X1.3

"45
"73
119.x
130.9
133.7
"54
127.1
138.3
139.7
130.9
131.1
133.9
«33.3
«34.5
135.4
136.0
136.1
136.9
137.1
>37.7

Q X
H O

100.0

108.6

106.7

113.8

110.6

118.0

"33

130.9

"5 3

"3-5

116.9

"5-3

X18.3

127.0

"9 5

138.3

13a. 6

129.3

121 4

X30.3

122.0

131.4

172.6

131 7

123.1

132. 3

123.6

133.6

134.1

133.0

"4-3

1334

134.7

133.7

135.0

X34-O

125.3

134.3

"5-5

«34.6

"5-7

134.8

"5 9

«.34.9

126.0

1349

136.1

100.0
102. 1
103.6
104.6

105.9
106.2
106.3
106.4
107.0
107.6
108.3
108.7
109.3
109.3

109.6
109.6
110.7

Ill.O

111.0
111.0

III.O
Ill.O
Ill.O

The amount of water taken up by the samples during their
twenty-three immersions is perhaps as fair a measure as any of the
relative absorption of various kinds of leather, when used for the soles

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INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

of shoes. It is a measure of the amount of water that will be taken
up, in the same time, under the same circumstances, by various kinds
of leather. The relative amount, compared with the weight of the
sample before being immersed, is given in the last line of Table XVI.
The same, compared with the weight of washed and dried leather, is
given below :

TABLE XVII.
Mtttft weight of samples of leather after twenty-three successive immersions of ten secomis
FtJih, and relative value of the same compared with the weight of the same when dried

«/ //)o° F.

Absolute. Relative.

. 21.70 grammes. 1 11. o per cent.

. 59.15 " 138.9 "

Raw hide

English

Hemlock

Union

Oak (American)

Australian

German

Italian .

French

Russian

Swedish

Austrian

South American

63.69
57.88
62.67
58.90
52.06
48.97

58.15
5360

54.87
64.46
58.80

147.6
148.0
148. 1
148.2
150.4
152.0

153.9
156.4
160.I
167.1
188.0

The diagram submitted with this report will show readily, to those
familiar with this method of illustration, the rapidity with which
various samples take up water. It will be seen that there is a con-
siderable variation among them, the hemlock taking up the least
water, and taking that quantity the slowest, while the Austrian takes
up the most and the fastest.

There are two classes of curves marked, the first taking up water
rapidly at the beginning, but becoming so nearly saturated as to take
it up very slowly at the end, and finally retaining more water than
the second class, which take up water slowly and uniformly during
the whole number of immersions, and are not generally saturated at
the t:iid.

To the first class belong the Austrian, Swedish and Norwegian,
oak (American), French, Austrahan.

To the second class belong the hemlock, union, German.

One would expect the leather which weighs the least per square
foot, for a given thickness, and in which the fibres are the most dense
{i.t\, liaving the greatest specific gravity), would be the most porous,
and therefore would take up water the fastest. The Austrian leather
is, nt the same time, the lightest, and has the highest specific gravity,
and that leather does take up water the fastest, and takes the most of

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XII. 2J

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28 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

it. Conversely, one would expect the leather which weighs the most
per square foot, for a given thickness, and which has the lowest
specific gravity, would take up water the slowest and the least. The
hemlock leather is, at the same time, the heaviest per square foot, and
has the lowest specific gravity, and does take up water the slowest,
and takes the least. The experiments on rapidity of absorption, then,
are entirely in accordance with a rational expectation.

Arranging the leathers iq the order of the weight of the washed
and dried square foot:

TABLE XVIII.

Mean weights and specific jgravities of a square foot, )^ inch thick, of various tannages.

Weight. Sp. Grav.

French 1. 162 pounds. I-5I45

Hemlock 1.143 " 1.4668

Gennan 1.092 " 1.4885

Russian 1.055 •* 1.4587

Union 1.043 " 145^4

Swedish and Norwegian 1.032 " 1-4792

Austrian 1.030 " 1*4644

Oak (American) 1.016 " 1.4724

Australian 0.999 *< 1.4457

Italian 0.962 " 1.4422

English 0.949 " 1.5280

A comparison of this table with the diagram or with Table XVI.
will show that in every case where one leather is at the same time
lighter per square foot, and has a heavier specific gravity, it will
absorb water faster, and will absorb more than another. This is true
of every leather except the English.

If the two classes be separated we have as follows:

Class I. takes up water rapidly (A., S., O., F., and A*).

Mean specific gravity - • . 1. 4925

Weight of a sq. ft. i.o pounds.

Class II. takes up water slowly (H., U., and G.).

Mean specific gravity 1.47 12

Weight of a sq. ft. I.093 pounds.

These differences are not great, but they are in the direction indi-
cated.

From an inspection of the results of the experiments on individual
specimens of leather, it will be seen that there is a greater variation
among the hemlock leathers than any other. If this tannage be
divided into two classes, as before, we have :

Class I. takes up water rapidly (Nos. 13-20-12).

Mean specific gravity 1.470

Weight of 12^ sq. ins. ]^ in. thick .... 43.69 grammes.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIL 29

Class II. takes up water slowly (Nos. 21-16-15-30-31)-

Mean specific gravity 1.461

Weight of I2jl^ sq. ins. ]^ in. thick .... 44.58 grammes.

The same is true of the union :

Class I. Class II.

Numbers 2S-30 34-32-36-37

Mean specific gravity . . . 1.473 ^'456

Weight 12)^ sq. ins. ]^ in. thick . 39.22 grammes. 39.80 grammes.

The same is also true of the oak:

Class I. Class II.

Numbers . . . 0,1,2,5,6,7 ",4,3

Mean specific gravity . . . 1.480 1.472

Weight I2jl^ sq. ins. ^ in. thick . 40.72 grammes. 38.20 grammes.

It appears, then, that this law holds true among different samples
of the same tannage as well as among all the tannages of different
countries and among different tannages of the same country. It prob-
ably, then, has some other cause than the different kinds of bark used.*

Resistance to Abrasion or Attrition. — An experiment was made
to determine this quality, but with imperfect success. The machine
used for that purpose consisted of a fine-grained Ohio sandstone, in-
tended to be used as a grindstone. It was mounted on a vertical axle
like a millstone, and revolved at the rate of 75 revolutions a minute.
The pieces of leather, after having been washed, dried, etc., as al-
ready described, were tacked on wooden blocks by four screw-pegs
in each piece. These wooden blocks were portions of an annular ring
30 inches outside diameter and 23 inches inside diameter. The whole
number of segments necessary to complete the ring was twenty.
Only eight blocks were used, which were spaced equidistant around
the circumference of the stone on the upper face. These were kept
from revolving with the stone by chocks screwed on the frame-work
of the machine. These chocks were so shaped that they did not
crowd the wooden block and the leather tacked on it down on the
face of the stone, but only prevented it from revolving with the stone.
The blocks were laid on the stone with the leather down, and an iron
weight laid on them. The leather then- being pressed down on the

* I presume this arises from the different methods of preparing the hide. If treated
with lime the fat is saponified, and may be washed out with water. If the hide is "sweat"
a considerable portion of the fat might remain in the hide. This fat would go to fill the
pores of the leather and make it heavier per cubic foot, as well as of a lighter specific
gravity. I am told that the hemlock leather on exhibition is generally "sweat leather,"
* while the oak is generally " limed." If it should prove to be true that the hemlock leathers
which took up water fast were limed, and the reverse, the question would be settled. This
would also account for the fact that the "gains" are greater in hemlock leather, while there
appears to be more tannin combined in the oak. Note. — This has not proved to be true.

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JO INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

stone by the weight and rubbed by the stone revolving beneath, it
would in course of time be worn away. The whole weight pressing
down upon the leather was 6j^ pounds (2.83 kilos.), being (6^-t-I2)^,
=) y^ pound per square inch (0.35 kilos. = per c"). The diameter
of the stone was 30 inches (0.762 metres), and its velocity nearly 75
revolutions per minute. The speed of the rubbing surface was there-
fore nearly 500 feet (152.4 metres) per minute, or s% miles (8.8 kilos.)
per hour. The stone was driven by a 5-inch (12.5 centimetres) belt
on a 30-inch (0.762 metres) pulley through a pair of mitre-wheels from
a is-inch (0.381 metres) pulley on the line shaft. This belt often
slipped, although very tight.

It was expected that this machine would offer an exact means of
determining the relative resistance of the various kinds of leather to
attrition or abrasion. The experiment was not perfectly successful
for the following reasons :

On the first trials, the surface of the stone soon after being started
became glazed by the dust ground off from the leather, working into
the pores of the stone and filling them up, until the surface was as
smooth as polished glass; in this condition it did not cut away the
leather at all. This difficulty was overcome after many trials by
allowing a little stream of fine sand to fall on the centre of the stone
through an orifice in the bottom of a box, which was scattered uni-
formly over the surface by the centrifugal force. The quantity of
sand used was about four quarts per hour. This removed the diffi-
culty from glazing, but the effect of the sand rubbed on the stone by
the leather was to cut away the stone much faster than the leather.
As the stone wore down it became softer and cut away the leather
much faster than at first, and although the surface was trued up at
the end of each experiment (lasting two hours and grinding seven
pieces), it would become full of furrows and hollows before another
experiment was completed.

The friction of the leather on the stone heated both the stone and
the leather from a temperature of 80° at the commencement to a
temperature of from 140° to 180° in different experiments at the end,
and possibly burned the leather a little. The result of all these vari-
ations was to vary the weight of the leather worn away in the pro-
portion of 100 to 400 for different specimens at different times, and
to destroy all value of different experiments for comparison among
themselves.

It would appear that to make such an experiment perfectly suc-
cessful, the revolving disk should be a perfectly uniform material

through that portion of the depth of surface which would be worn

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XII.

away (such a uniformity could probably be obtained with a cast-iron
plate); and that some means should be provided for keeping the
surface cool, either by circulating water through a hollow plate or by
allowing a little stream of water to play on the under side of the
plate, thus keeping the lower surface wet and cool, and conveying
the heat away from the upper side through the plate.

As the machine was manipulated during these experiments, seven
pieces of leather were placed on it at the same time, and ground for
two hours. During these two hours the seven pieces were changed
in position every fifteen minutes, so that at the end of the two hours
every piece had occupied every place and had been under every
weight.

There would appear to be no reason why the weight ground away,
under the circumstances, from each of these seven pieces, should not
be in proportion to the resistance to attrition or abrasion.

The table appended to this report shows the date and hour of grind-
ing and the weights lost by each piece. If the various pieces of oak,
union, and hemlock leather ground at the same time are compared,
we have the following, as in Table XIX.

It will be observed that the figures representing relative wear are
in the same direction as the specific gravities (which I assume to be
an indication of the amount of tannin combined with a unit of hide),
the leather having the highest specific gravity (and, therefore, pre-
sumptively the greatest amount of tannin in combination) showing
the greatest endurance.

The following table shows the hours and date of grinding of each

piece, being compiled from the Appendix to show which pieces were

ground together :

TABLE XIX.

Showing which pieces were ground on same day and at same hour,*

Date.

Hours.

August

P.M.
A.M.
P.M.

A.M.
P.M.
P.M.
AM.
AM.
P.M.

«<

Numbers op Samples Ground.

23- 94- 41- 44-53-60-70- 71

o- i-»i3-»ao-*97- 3a- 34-*38

•6- 16- ax- 37- 54- 64- 35- 60

5- *8-*ii- 14- i7-*i8-*3o- 40

a- xo- 15- 31- 33- 36- 53- 6x

4- 7- la- a8- 4a- 50- 55- 45

3- 22- 51- 57- 58- 65- 7a- 73

23- 26- 43- 46- 47- 48- 6a- 63

67- 68-* 18- 56-*a7 •66- 34- 37

•6-»ix- •8-*i3-*ao •38-»3o- ...

By comparing those pieces ground on same day, a fair estimate of
the relative endurance may be obtained.

* Those marked * are ground twice.
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TABLE XIX. A.
Mean weight lost in grinding in same time by the oak, hemlock, and union leathers.

DATE.

Weight lost in grinding Two Hours.

Oak (American).

Hemlock.

Union.

8.04
6.04
8.65
12.98
9.96
5.49

84»

xoo.o

7.33
10.63

8.90
13.48

9.3a

570

9.04
107.5

8.25
8.49
7-77
X1.21
14-40
6.13

9-30
111.5

«• It

♦* 13

" X4

" 14....

" 15

Mean

Relative.

That is to say, the mean weights of the leather worn away under the
same circumstances, when washed and dried at 160° F., will be :
Oak .... loo.o I Hemlock. . 107.5 I Union. . 11 1.5

The above figures do not indicate the proportionate amount of leather
in the condition exhibited that will be ground away under the same
circumstances, for the oak loses more by washing and drying than
the union or hemlock. The 100 parts of washed and dried oak leather
worn away will be represented by 122.3 parts of leather in its original
condition, the 107.5 hemlock by 127.7, the 1 1 1.5 union by 134.2.
The relative amounts worn away then will be in the original leather
in the proportion of 122.3, 127.7, and 134.2, or

Oak .... loo.o I Hemlock . . 104.4 I Union . . 109.7
And the relative endurance, —

Oak (American) . . loo.o | Hemlock . . 95.7 | Union . .91.1

In order to make these experiments complete, I have experimented
upon some pieces of raw hide.* All the samples were cut from the
same portion of the hide as the samples of leather, just over the kid-
neys. A, B, C, and D were from a green salted hide. E, F, G, and
H were from a dry South American hide. J and K were also from a
dry South American hide. The first eight pieces were all soaked for
a week in a strong solution of slacked lime. At the end of that time
the green hide was found to be so much softened that the hair and
grain could be easily scraped off. The hair was taken off from all
four, and in addition, as much of the grain as could be easily scraped

* In the ordinary experiment of having a pair of shoes made, one with a hemlock sole
and one with an oak sole, the fact is usually lost sight of that, as the soles are originally
of the same thickness, the hemlock sole weighs alxjut 1 2 per cent, the most.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XII.

off from A and B. There was some flesh and fat left on all four.
Nos. E, F, G, and H, being dry hide, were not nearly so soft, and
the hair and flesh were removed with difficulty. Nos. J and K were
first experimented upon with the hair on, only being washed and
first scraped off with a knife. In this condition they contained all
the grease and oil in the natural hide that were not soluble in water.
They were then soaked in a strong solution of slacked lime for forty-
eight hours, and at the end of that time were so far softened that the
hair and some little flesh remaining could be with difficulty cleaned
off. All the hair and flesh were carefully removed. After being
limed, these pieces are designated as J' and K'. The flesh and fat
from the green salted hide did not appear to be soluble in water, even
after so long a sqaking in lime that the hide could be punctured with

the fingers.

TABLE XX.

Giving mean results of experiments on raw hide. Samples j}i inches square {8.8<p centi-
metres),
WEIGHT (GRAMMES).

Absolutb.

RsLATtYB.

Spbcific
Gravity.

Wet.

Dry.

Wet.

Dry.

•A
*B

G
H

5X.20

46.40

60.50

45.00

56.20
52.10
54-35
4500
48.67
46.70
46.16
44.50

X4.95
>3-57
>9-35
>5.25
20.70
>9-30
19.3
16.00

84.90
24.55
ai.62
20.9a

344
341
3"
293
271
269

ti
223

813

xoo
xoo
xoo

100

xoo
xoo
100
xoo
xoo
xoo
xoo
too

X.290
1.339

Jin

X 39»
X.390

The following is the result of those experiments :

Tst. Thoroughly limed and partially cleaned green salted hide (A
and B) has a specific gravity of 1.3685, and will absorb 2^ times its
weight of water.

2d. Thoroughly limed green salted hide, thoroughly cleaned on
hair side and partially on flesh side, has a specific gravity of 1.3, and
will absorb twice its weight of water.

3d. Partially limed and thoroughly cleaned dry South American
hide has a specific gravity of 1.388, and will absorb i^ times its
weight of water (F, G, and H).

* A, B, and D had a little fat on them when dry.

t C had considerable fat, probably at least (19.35 — ^S-^S = ) 4-io grammes more than D.

J E was put into a hot solution of lime.

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j4 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

4th. Dry South American hide, with hair on, not limed, and only
washed and cleaned with knife, will have a specific gravity of 1.3685,
and will absorb nine-tenths of its weight of water (J and K).

5 th. Some pieces of dry South American hide will, after being
thoroughly limed and cleaned, lose fourteen per cent, of weight, will
absorb 2% times their weight of water, and will have a specific gravity
of i.39o(J'andK0.

It will be observed that pieces of dry South American hide, before
being limed, after flesh is scraped off, weigh :

J 24.90

K 24^

Mean 24.72

and that some pieces, after being limed, weigh, when freed of hair,
flesh, and fat:

J' 21.62

K' 20.92

Mean 21.27

and that, therefore, the loss of fat and flesh through liming (including
weight of hair, which must be insensibly small = 24.72 — 21.27) ^^ 3.45
in an original weight of 24.72, or a loss of fourteen per cent, of the
original weight.

It will be also noticed that the pieces of dry South American,
before being limed (J and K), weigh nearly the same when worked
after being limed Q' and K'), from which the inference would be, if
the hides were not dried and weighed, that the loss of weight by
liming had been insensibly small. This inference would, of course,
be incorrect.

All remarks in regard to dry hide apply to hide dried at 160° F.

From these results I conclude that thoroughly cleaned, raw hide
may be, without sensible error, assumed to have a specific gravity of

Very respectfully,

THERON SKEEI^

462

Digitized by CjOOQIG

GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XII, 35

APPENDIX.

The following tables contain the whole of the results of measure-
ments and weighings made during the experiments. The lines are
numbered consecutively, and the same numbers apply to the same
items in each case. The items in each line are given below :

2. Kind of hide.

Sy sweat.
1, limed,
a, acid.

I. Name of tanner.

^ s, slaughter.
I d, dry.

3. Method of removing the
hair and of plumping.

4. Exhibition number.

5. Stamped number.

6. Thickness of sample in hundredths of

an inch.

7. Original weight in grammes.

8. Weight in grammes after drying at

160T.

9. Weight in grammes when washed and

saturated with water.

10. Weight in grammes when in water.

11. Weight in grammes dried at 160® F.

12. Specific gravity.

13. Loss of weight in grinding two hours.

14. Date of grinding. Proportional weight.

Original weight icx).

15. When dried at 160® F.

16. When wet.

17. When washed and dried at 160® F.

Weight after being immersed in water
during the following number of in-
^ tervals of ten seconds each, viz. :

18. o Immersion.

19.
20.
21.
22.

23.

24.

25-

26.
27.
28.
29.
30.

31-
32.
33.
34.
35-
36.
37.
38.
39-
40.

41.
42.

1 Immersion.

2 Immersions.
3

4
5
6

7
8

10 "

11 "

12 "

13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20

21 **

22 "
23

Ratio of original weight of leather to
weight of same when washed and
saturated with water; original weight
being icx).

463

Digitized by CjOOQIC

r-">t;« V '^V+' ■ "^*^. '-11-7- ->^** ^

36 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

OAK.

•

«.

salt.

i'LuxA.

4
5
6

3038

779a

^x 807X 9
3 4

1974

4
97

3ox9 <

5
96

,696

3647

7933
8

1461 3977
xo *'

.83

36.9

49-85

49-33

53.7X

58.75

5X.5S

53.05

56.98

59.44

46.18

51.63

40.56

51.22

44 93

45.4a

48.00

48.50

47.57

49.0a

53.73

54.91

48-39

46.93

36.76

46.74

77.90

74-30

76.16

83.90

77.30

70.71

79.30

86.40

71.70

8x ao

67.00

76.82

13.07

X3.97

1345

X3.80

X3.69

14.38

15-75

X6.30

I3.o8

13.45

X0.86

40.6X

40.38

49.67

43.80

43.67

43.87

48.47

49-98

37.91

43.27

33-93

42.32

X.476

1.489

X.463

x.476

1.469

1.484

X.483

1.485

X.468

1.467

1-471

1.4724

«3

7.6a

8.46

X4.64

X0.65

9.77

9.5a

6.04
(6.07)

X0.15

8.41
(5.45)

9-91

8.03
(4.80)

X4.A.M

. X5

X4.P.M.

X4.P.M

X4.A.M

(16)

«5

9t.x

99.x

9I.X

9X.9

93.3

93.1

93.5

98.4

91.8

90.9

90.5

91.3

X58.0

X50.7

X44.5

159.8

«49-9

133.4

143.4

145.6

155.8

157-3

165.0

149-9

8a.S

81.9

80.9

84.8

83.7

83.8

85.0

84.0

83.x

8X.9

83.6

81.8

Totals.

4a.5o

44.70

48.60

49.10

47.95

50.30

56.30

56. XO

42.90

47.90

38.35

526.4

«9

47-35 .

49-70

5405

50.85

49.30

54.a5

5930

63.45

44.45

50.30

39.60

5635

49SO

53.05

55.60

53.35

50.15

55.70

61.75

66. xo

47.05

52.25

41.25

584.6

5X.X0

54-95

56.75

53.55

51.10

56.70

63.55

67-50

49.90

5370

48-45

600.4

•2

53.60

56.30

5760

54.65

53.10

57.50

65.55

68.40

50.60

54.90

43-50

614.6

»3

53.60

57 35

58.40

5555

53.00

58.15

66.50

69.30

51.7^

56.05

4455

634. X

54.35

58.35

59-00

56.30

53.80

58.85

67-35

70.30

52.80

56.95

45.70

633.6

55. xo

59.30

59.50

57.00

54.55

59.40

68.30

70.75

53-85

5790

46.55

6437

55.65

59-70

59-95

5760

55-35

59-90

68.85

71.00

54.30

58.40

47-25

647.8

56.30

60.35

60.10

58.05

5580

60.45

69.50

71.45

55.00

59-30

48.05 654.4

57.00

60.75

60.40

58.50

56.35

60.85

70.00

73.00

55.40

59-70

48.60 659.6

57.70

61.30

60.55

58.90

56.75

61.30

70.35

78-35

55.95

60.40

49-85

664.5

58.00

6X.50

60.70

59.35

57.00

6x45

70.60

73.75

56.10

60.85

49-85

668.0

58.30

61.65

60.95

59-55

57-40

61.75

70.80

73.05

56.50

61.35

50.35

671.4

58.40

61.95

61.15

59.90

57.70

6a.x5

70.81

73.45

56.60

61.60

50.75

674.4

58.80

63.10

6x.ao

60.05

58.00

62.35

70.85

73.70

56.70

62. xo

51.25

677.x

59.05

63.X5

6x.x5

60.35

58.35

63.50

7X.00

74.10

56.80

62.60

51-45

6795

59.85

63.35

61.35

60.45

58.50

63.80

71.00

74.35

56.95

63.00

51-70

68X.4

3«

5950

6a.4S

61.45

60.6s

58.85

63.00

71.00

74.60

57.05

6315

51.90

683.6

5965

63.70

6X.65

60.90

58.85

63-15

71.00

74.75

5705

6355

52.05

685.3

59.85

62.70

61.90

60.90

59.10

6335

71.00

74.85

57-05

63.80

52.40

6869

60.05

63.90

6a.oo

61.05

59.30

63.45

71.00

74.85

5705

64. xo

52.40

688.1

60.35

63.05

62.00

61.05

59-40

63.50

71.00

75.10

57.15

64.30

52.40

689.x

60.30

63.05

62.00

61.20

59.55

6355

71.00

75.00

57-IO

64-45

52.45

689.6

X58

158

148

X4X

145
464

146

150

154

X48.1

Digitized by CjOOQIC

GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XII. 37

HEMLOCK.

d»

-5

—

8. and a.

Lands.

8. and a.

1. and a.

Means.

8*43

8S39

8a93

7979

798a

7806

7806.6X

8390

7983

X4
as

»5
as

X7
a4

.33

34-4

59.89

43.78

49-97

53.ai

46.58

48.99

5990

•5X.86

43.84

50.89

54-5a

39-75

44-93

48.3X

41.74 (?)

44.45

53.97

46.93

39.90

46.10

85.63

65.00

77.30

81.53

67.40

70.70

83.60

74-30

65.65

74-44

X5.93
49.9a

11.95
37.3*

13.56
43."

14.17
44-77

13.27
38.7s

X3.33
43.X1

16.39
SX.X7

14. 00
43-50

XX.90.
37.69

43-X5

X.469

X.467

1.458

X.460

X.463

X.477

x-474

I.46X

1.4668

9.33

7-44
(S-oo)

10.37

X3.48

XO.63

7.3X

9-xa
(6.05)

7.30
(S-70)

8.68

z4.r.M.

(16)

14.A.M.

(x6)

91. 0

90.8

89.9

90-9

89.9 (?)

90.7

90.x

90.4

91.1

90.6

143.8

X48.S

1544

X53.a

X44.6

1443

X37-9

X43-X

150.0

X46.3

»7

83.3

85.a

86.3

84.x

83-a

85.9

85.6

83.9

861

84-a
Totals

57-85

41.85

48.35

50.30

45-50

46. XO

59-30

47.X0

43- SO

456.1

»9

60.00

45.7s

49-75

51-40

46-50

47.70

63.30

53.3s

44.30

460.9

63.15

48.00

53.55

53.00

47-85

49.50

63.40

54-35

4590

478.7

63.70

49.50

54-70

54-xo

4930

5x35

64-30

SS.80

47.35

489.9 .

64.9s

50.65

56.55

5S.XO

50.40

53.55

65.05

57.X5

48.50

500.9

«3

66.15

5«.55

58.35

56.00

5X.5O

53-75

65.70

58.4s

49.50

511.0

67.15

Sa.so

59-75

;6.9o

5a.45

54.60

66.40

59-50

50.45

589.7

68.00

53.40

6j.io

57.70

53-35

55-45

67.00

60.65

5X35

537.8

68.70

53-75

61.90

58.50

53-95

S6.30

67.60

61.65

^3.00

534-3

69.50

54.3s

63.70

S9.a5

54-50

56.9s

68.10

63.30

53.60

540.3

70.35

54-70

63-30

59.90

55.15

5735

68.50

63.60

53x0

5443

70.95

55.00

64-30

60.65

55.50

58.00

69.05

63.00

53.6s

550.x

71.50

55.30

64.a5

61.40

56.35

58.55

69.45

63.30

53.90

S53.X

71.90

SS.70

64.30

63. XO

56.30

58.90

69.80

63.55

54.30

556.8

73.30

55.80

64.50

63.50

56.80

59.aS

70.00

64.00

54.60

559.8

73.90

5590

^4.50

63.00

57. XO

59.75

70-40

64-35

54-90

563.6

7335

55-85

64.75

63.35

57-40

5990

70.70

64-55

55x0

565-0

73-55

55-90

64-75

63-75

57.65

60.00

71.00

64-70

5540

566.7

73.70

55.90

64.85

64. XO

57.90

60.30

7X-35

64.90

55.40

568.3

73.80

55.90

64-95

64-35

58.10

60.55

7X.50

65.05

55.60

570.0

74.00

55.90

64-95

64.60

58.30

60.85

71.60

65-05

55-75

57X.0

74.10

55.90

65.35

64-85

58.45

61.00

73.00

65-35

55-80

573.6

74.a5

55.90

65.30

65.00

58.65

6x.3o

73.30

65-35

55-80

573.6

4«

74.30

55.90

65.05

6s-as

58.7s

61.35

73.45

65.35

55-80

574.3

«49

xsx

X46

X4X

150

X49

X47-6

30 465

Digitized by CjOOQIC

INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

—

pAS

53«>

4^A«

47.«9

Ta.aa

n.^

X13.67

««:Q7

43.65

i'^Sft

x.4S»

ffa

S.40

87,1

88.7

^431

«35

ii.3

8«.i

40-70

50.86

«*

JSkti

5».95

54*1.

5575

'#»

3^<K^

5765

tr^

58.90

IMS

60.05

*»

»^^

60.70

3Sifij

61.55

«fi

fi^H

61.55

fi^

6a.i5

df^io

69.90

■?

69.39

«»(flS

69.49

a«

e9j(»

69.65

3«

j^f

69.90

%«

63.00

^^s

63. xo

%.fo

63.15

iS-So

63.35

«4»»*

63.55

ft^-

63.60

««.4«

63.65

«4^

63.75

«4-^

63.65

X44

AUSTRALIAN.

Meam.

»4

—

•5

•5.9

35.36

45.37

5X.36

51.80

49.06

31.16

4a.57

44.36

45.ax

55.51

69.67

89.49

70.90

74.66

8.78

XX.47

13.3a

M.95

—

99.68

38.90

41.3X

41.09

39.78

X.495

X.418

1.476

1.444

14.457

7.80

5.80

4.58

8.76
(5.70)

.........

16. P.M.

88.0

87.7

86.3

87.3

87.6

«57.3

143.8

X60.3

X36.X

159.5

83.8

80.4

80.9

79-3

80
TotaU

33.«>

44.30

47.15

46.60

942.7

33.ao

45.90

50.50

47.90

939.9

34.35

47.35

53.00

50.90

941.9

?3.45

48.95

5490

59.40

•50.4

36.60

50.35

56.30

54.«5

957.a

37.75

51.50

57.40

55.ao

96a.7

38.90

5«.50

58.30

56.3s

»67.S

39-95

53.30

59.00

57.45

971.9

40.95

54-05

59.35

58.00

975.x

4».95

54.80

59.75

58.50

978.4

43.75

55.X5

60.05

58.65

980.9

43.50

55.55

60.50

59.00

a8a.3

44.X5

55.95

60.75

59.«>

984.0

44.75

56.30

60.85

59.45

985.6

45.00

56.60

60.95

59-55

987.1

45.45

56.75

6x.oo

59.55

988.0

45.75

56.95

6x.oo

59.65

989.0

46.15

57.00

6x.oo

59.7s

•89.7

46.30

57.15

61.00

59-85

990.4

46.30

57.35

6x.oo

60.00

991

46.30

57 45

6x.oo

60.15

991.7

46.30

57.50

6x.oo

60.15

999.0

46.30

57.55

6x.oo

60.15

999.3

46.30

57.60

6x.oo

60.15

99a.4

156

148

"^7

14B.3

466

Digitized by CjOOQIC

GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIL 3^
UNION.

•

1
1^

•
1

1-3

(Add

«.

Means

799«

7874

7875

7879

7871

7989

7877

7873

8034

•4

94^

47.79

50.9X

48.69

46.30

53.03

44.50

46.1X

4X.15

4X.43

46.65

4a.ao

45.80

44.a7

4X.77

48. XO

40.90

4X.39

37.36

37.38

43-05

66.85

77.00

71.97

68.15

80.54

71.06

67.87

633s

69.50

69-84

»3.49
41.05

13.68
49.97

19.68

11.96

39.4X

13.58
44.36

XX.55
37.10

11.89
38.34

10.79
34.16

10.79
33-67

41.57

39.10

1.489

1.478

X.438

X.435

x.43«

X.453

X.449

X.469

1.466

1.4564

14.40

7.77
(5.00)

X9.68

8.70

X3.67

7.80
(4.80)

so. 99

7.90

8.49
(5.69)

14.F.M.

X9
(X6.F.1I.)

X4.P.M.

X4^.M.

(16.P.M.)

I4.A.M.

(16 F.M

88.3

90.0

9X.I

90.9

90.4

89.9

90.9

90.3

90.1

«39.8

X5X.3

X46.5

X47.a

151.9

159.6

147-3

X53.9

X53.4

X430

859

83.0

85.x

83.7

83.5

83.3

84.9

8X.3

89.x

Totals

46.00

47.35

46.30

44.30

49.85

40.65

45.00

39-75

37.45

396.7

«9

48.60

49.40

47.10

45.50

5X.30

41.05

48.10

4X.00

38.00

410.x

49-95

50.85

47.90

46.95

59.95

41.55

4940

43.05

38.75

4x9.7

5X.05

59.00

48.80

47-35

54.35

43.15

50.50

43.00

39.50

437.7

51.80

53.00

49.65

48.55

55.50

49.8a

51.30

43.75

40.40

436.8

«3

59.80

53.75

50.65

49.60

56.55

43.40

53.10

44.55

41.90

444.6

53.55

54.50

5X.90

50.50

57-55

44.05

53.75

45.30

49.00

453.1

54.as

55.ao

53- «o

5X.45

58.35

44.65

5335

46.00

43.35

4596

55.00

5590

54.50

53.15

59.30

45.XS

54.08

46.60

44.00

466.6

55.55

56.30

55.80

53.95

60.10

45.75

54.90

47x5

44.75

473.6

56.15

56.75

56.85

53.60

60.80

46.40

54.70

47.75

4540

478.4

»9

56.60

57.45

57.60

54.40

61.50

47.00

55-30

48.35

46.00

484.x

57.05

57.95

58.45

55.00

69.15

47.55

55.70

48.75

46.50

489.x

57.50

58.35

59.00

55.45

69.60

48.10

56.00

49.30

47.00

493.x

3»

57-95

58.70

59-35

55.90

63.05

48.75

56.90

49-65

47.50

497- X

58.30

58.90

5990

56.40

63.45

49-35

56.50

50.05

48.00

500.0

58.50

59.ao

60.35

56.90

63.70

49-80

56.90

50.4s

48.45

504.3

58.90

59.65

60.60

57.35

63.90

50.30

57.30

50.90

48.85

507.7

59.X0

60. X5

60.85

57.65

64.a5

50.85

57-30

5X.35

49.as

5x0.8

59.30

60.45

6x.oo

58.00

6450

51.40

57.40

5X.60

49.60

5x33

59.55

60.55

61.95

58.15

64.65

53.00

57.70

5X.85

49-95

5x5.7

59.55

61.05

61.3s

58.35

64.80

53.50

57.80

5x95

50.30

5«77

59.50

6X.95

61.35

58.60

65. XO

53.95

57-95

S3.X5

50.55

519-4

59.50

6X.35

61.45

58.65

65.30

53.50

58.05

58.35

50.70

530.9

X45

148

140

«49

X59

>53

X50

X48.0

NoTS. — Numbers 7874 and 7875 are ''hemlock'* tazms^ which were erroneously classed among the
' union." • Tanned in 90 days.

467

Digitized by CjOOQIC

INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

AUSTRIA.

^ ^ — — — — — — — Means

S +a <i 4a 43 44 45 46 47 -

ft 37 as x6 17 23 , a6 35 95

7 S»*3& 49^3 a6-86 30-S0 46-35 54 99 75-59 5052

S i^m 43.9? 94.46 98-40 41.97 4940 69.95 44.59

y r7 9a 7330 47.85 59.77 70.30 77.46 99.87 79.71

10 i:j,9i sj.ta 6.84 6.97 I9.X7 X4.49 19.98 13.93

It 4>.87 4'.™ ««-45 93.59 39.04 49.35 5976 38.66

as 1.493 1*474 ^•438 X.491 X.451 1.516 1.509 1.590

a J f.B* 655 95.40 3.87 5.34 95.13 9.31 7.97

14 13 9 14.P.M 16 Q i4.r.M. 16 x6

35 B-j.o &^.4 90.9 93.1 90.5 90.9 83.3 88.3

16 „„.. ...-.

17 79 7 S3 J 83.4 77.1 84.1 85.6 79.0 76.5

Totals.

ifl 4&7S 48. JO 95.60 97.50 45.90 47.90 66.35 43.05 325.7

J9 5»H*i S«fiS 97.45 98.50 47.60 49.30 68.70 45.15 365.4

■o 53^75 S^PJ 99.40 99.35 49.80 50.40 70.45 46.45 3S2.1

" SI9S S3.8s 3».X5 30.15 5>.30 5X.90 71.75 47-35 39^.7

4a jfi <io 54, (>5 39.40 31.00 59.30 57.90 79.95 48.10 399.7

93 J^?^ 5595 3360 31.65 53.05 59.50 7380 48.80 406.3

M 577s 5«-rQ 34.55 39.95 53-55 5305 74.50 49.40 4" -8

a? 5S55 57tJS 35.30 39.85 53.95 53-55 75.oo 50.00 416.6

tl 59.5^5 ?*'io 35.85 33.45 54.30 54.00 75.40 50.50 420.9

47 fe,« 5S.S0 36.45 33.85 54.60 54.40 75.7s 50.80 4297

sS fid.Tcj ^.»D 36.80 34.35 54.85 54.85 76.10 51.90 498.1

99 fii.Ki S9'75 37.00 34.85 55.00 55.05 76.40 51.60 430.9

^ 6rsS 60.3a 37.30 35.10 55.15 55.55 76.55 51.80 433.3

31 fij^oo 60,65 37.60 35.85 55.30 56.90 76.80 59.05 435.8

3s ^3.35 61,10 37-70 35.80 55.45 56.90 77.05 52.30 437.9

35 6j,75 6t.45 37.85 36.90 55.60 56.35 77.05 59.70 439.7

34 JS».Oo 61 .gs 38.05 36.40 55.75 56.60 77.15 52.90 441-7

35 ^l■^^ ^.*30 38.35 '36.90 55.85 56.90 77-30 53.05 443.6
jfi fii,|5 feio 38.45 37.10 55.90 57.05 77.40 53.25 444-S
37 f^Sa 6a. 43 38.55 37.90 56.00 57.90 77.50 53.45 446.2
\t 5400 63.55 38.60 37.55 56.15 57.90 77.60 53.60 447.3
3fr *ij»o 6270 38.70 37.75 56.95 57.95 77.60 53.85 448.4

4^ 64-3S «2.eo 38.80 37.95 56.95 57.30 77.80 54.10 449.4

41 tivi 63 «* 38.80 38.15 56.35 57.35 77.75 54.30 450.2

468

Digitized by CjOOQIC

GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XII. ^i
ITALY.

1
1^

—

56.90

49.6a

86.48

1555

45. 5X

X.5X9

5.ao

»5

57-4

xsa

»7

80.0

Si.ao

53.00

52.85

5360

54-35

55.t5

55.80

56.40

57.05

57.60

58.X5

58.65

59.05

3«

59.55

5985

60.30

60.55

60.70

6z.oo

61.35

61.65

61.75

61.95

63.05

50 51 53

X9 X9 ao

3X.45 37.60 31.73

38.35 34.99 89.33

5a.5i 55.25 53.05

7.76 9.30 7.51

97.33 29." 27.70

X.398 X.463 x.87a

87.84 9.36 7.80

X4.P.M. X5 9

90.0 91.7 89.7

169 X47 X69

86.5 77.x 84.4

31.40 33.90 33.00

39.30 35.90 35.15

33-55 37.90 36.90

35. xo 38.45 38.35

36.45 39-»5 39-45

37.55 39.85 40.50

38.80 40.50 4X<50

39.70 4X.OS 42.45

40.45 4X.40 43.95

41.30 4X.80 43.85

49.00 42.05 44.35

4*55 42.55 44.60

43.20 42.70 44.75

43.50 42.95 44.85

43.80 43.05 45. «o

44.15 43.25 45.00

44.XO 43.50 45.00

44.30 43.60 45.00

44.10 43.85 45.00

44.10 43.95 45.00

44. xo 44.00 45.00

44. xo 44x5 45.00

44.10 44.20 45.00

44.10 44.30 45.00

469

Meant.

31.6

3681

39.XO

32.87

34.88

57.42

60.39

9.95

31.50

3«.31

x.460

x«44aa

xo.xx

X4.A.1C.

89.6

89.3

X56

X55

83.9

83.4

Totals.

35.XO

X83.6

36.3s

X90.8

38.00

199.0

39-35

304.8

40.45

209.9

4X.55

9.8.7

42.40

9x9.0

43.25

339.8

44.05

936.9

44.75

399.3

45.20

33X.8

45.8X

•34.2

46.45

936.3

46.65

237.9

47.X5

939.0

47-45

940.9

47.75

94X.O

48.30

34X.8

48.45

943.6

48.60

243.x

48.80

243-8

48.95

244.x

49.05

244.5

49.25

244.9

Digitized by CjOOQIC

INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

GERMANY.

!;£

S«

—

Means.

—

«4

ao.8

3*l«

13.43

39-67

44.66

49.99

3t7*

43.85

37^

38.83

37.79

ssss

678*

57-59

64.09

61.23

S8S

13.23
40. S5

11.08

X2-43
37.9a

33.87

35.15

l«

t.490

1.490

1.509

X.470

1.4885

j,M

8.63

7.09

9.9X

14* t.*t*

»5

875

es.6

94.8

86.9

89.4

■51

11:

145

»7

a..9

8J7

83.8

83.9

83.1
Totals.

3*. 73

477a

38.95

49.55

163.3

»S>

3ft'^

4913

4075

45.65

179.7

3«^W

5*30

43.00

47.40

178.X

m^P'

ji.ao

4«.8o

48.95

X83.4

«i»

4040

51 95

43-fo

So.ao

186.4

•3

4^<(xt

5!! .So

44-ao

5«.o5

189.1

»4

4150

5315

44.80

53.00

191.9

43.-35

53 95

45.3X

53.70

194.3

■ti

43-60

54 34

45.65

54-35

196.3

»?

41-15

54 95

46. xo

54.95

T98.6

43 S5

55 45

46.60

55.55

800.6

4190

56.04

47-00

55.85

9oa.5

4435

56. j?^

47.aS

56.00

904.0

44-80

s; »5

47.65

56.30

905.6

44-i5

57*5

47-95

56.50

906.5

45^5

58.501

48.25

56.65

907.7

45 S^

SB*S

48.45

56.75

908.6

45«5

S*.fio

48.70

56.80

909.65

4S.9S

59,10

48.85

56.80

2x0.35

4* 10

59,w

49.XO

56.85

3XX.XO

1»

46 4P

5931

49.30

57.00

8XX.75

4*- 70

59 SO

49-45

56.90

3X8.50

46 »S

59 7«

49-55

56.90

3X3.8o

47=10

49-65

56.90

913.3s

€*

SOUTH AMERICA.

Means.

aa.5

39.17

43.73

37-95

99.07

3903

34.05

56.30

73.99

64.64

7.69

10.55

.........

36. x5

3637

31.96

X.416

1.409

1.419$

8.70

6.73

90.3

89.5

89.8

175

167

170

81.3

83.0

89.3

3015

43.05

........

40.70

43.60

—

4370

45.90

44.50

46.85

45.10

48.55

45.-50

49.95

—

45.65

51.95

45.70

59.45

45.75

53.40

4575

54.60

45.75

55.50

45.90

56.40

—

45.80

57.15

45.85

57.80

46.00

58.35

46.00

58.95

.......^

46.05

59-45

46.15

59.80

46.15

60. xo

—

46.95

60.50

..M

46.95

60.80

46.90

6X.05

.....«-

46.35

6x.90

.........

46.95

6X.35

470

Digitized by

Google

GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIL 43
SWEDEN AND NORWAY.

^ 5 * . iS

-3 is? * g3 Sg

is « Jdtf -si

(K (A* M Q

471

—

•~

i£

Mea».

«4

»9

ax.4

37.74

38.73

46.XX

4a.33

46.87

41.48

36.90

41.37

33.70

34.73

41.09

37.89

41.58

37.4a

33.16

36.94

6X.85 .

60.00

69.40

63.70

69.65

58.16

53.10

60.69

y.78

9.70

xa.69

11.03

ia.85

IX.38

X0.03

30.60

31.36

39.00

35.17

38.6a

34.06

30.a8

34.16

1.468

1.447

x.486

1.457

1.499

1.495

1-493

1.479*

3.«a

4.41

7.63

X3.07

7.ao

6.8x

5.06

«5

«9.4

89.8

89.1

89.5

88.6

90.0

88.8

893

164

155

151

148

«49

141

147

80.9

8x.o

84.6

83.1

8a.3

83.1

83.3

83.6
Totals.

34.90

36.95

4540

41.90

45.55

38.85

34.30

877.3

»9

35.85

41.40

50.95

43.35

46.80

43.30

37.95

899.6

38.60

43.90

53.45

45.60

48.50

45.9s

40.35

3J6.6

40.00

45.70

54.80

47.00

49.7s

47.75

4a.35

3*74

41.30

47.10

55.75

48.15

50.80

49.00

4340

335.4

4a.a5

48. xo

56.65

49.15

51.65

50.00

44.30

34«.i

43.a5

48.80

57.ao

50.15

5«.5o

50.55

44.95

347.4

44.10

49.45

57.65

51.00

53.15

50.90

45.50

353.3

4475

4990

58.15

51.81

53.90

51.15

45.85

355-6

«7

45-55

5o.a5

58.35

5a.30

54.30

51.35

46.95

358.3

46.30

50.50

58.65

53.00

55.10

51.35

46.45

361.3

«9

46.75

50.6s

58.95

53.ao

55.60

51.45

46.70

363-3

47.30

50.70

59.05

53.60

56.30

51.55

46.80

365.3

47.50

50.75

59.«5

53.80

56.80

51.65

46.80

366.5

4790

50.8s

59.30

53.95

57-«5

51.75

46.9s

367-7

48.X5

50.85

59.35

54.05

57.50

51.80

47.05

368.8

48.50

50.95

59.40

54.ao

5790

51.80

47.10

369.9

48.70

50.90

59.60

54.35

58.15

51.90

47.15

370.8

48.90

50.95

59.70

54.45

58.50

51.95

47.30

371.8

4905

5X.00

59.70

54.55

58.55

51.95

47.35

373.3

49a5

5X.00

59-75

54.60

59.10

51.95

47.40

373.a

49.50

5X.00

5985

54.60

59.30

51.95

47.40

373-6

49.«o

51.00

59.90

54.60

59.30

53.00

47.40

374.a

4«

49.80

5X.00

60.00

54.60

59.30

51.95

47.45

374.a

^....

^.....

^^..

Digitized by CjOOQIC

INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION. 1876.

FRANCE.

I I

1/5 2

.•a

RUSSIA.

McAOft.

Means.

M
IS

tfi

»9
90
31

»5
^4
»i
vfi

Ji
^»
33
14
J5
|0

ir
i»

»3

49.00

14.^
43.99

7ft3
54. lo

6a. 50

61.3s
6t.ga

£ah4Q

3975
«i.o8

T=40

^■90 '

r-506

8-75

»J7
t38

&33

4»3S
4S40
4?->c>

4S0S
48-90
4*55
50. ao
SO 70
5* 05
SI -35
51.60
5185
Saos

S«25

5^45
5^55
3a 80
5=95
53.XS
5325
53 35
53 55
5365
5370

9I.O

49-4>

66.X8

39-79
x.5«45

89.9
>34
80.8

Totak.
99.x

983
10 1. 9
X04.4
xo6.a
107.7
X09.0

ZIO.X
IXZ.X

XXZ.9
xxa.4
X03.9

1x3.4
XX3.9

"44
"45
1x4.9
1x5.9
1x5.5
XX5.6
1x5.8
1x6.0
xx6.9
1x6.3

«5

91. 0

47.84

3X.34

43.48

40.88

'4a.53

98.08

38.85

36.49

73.95

53-ao

64.50.

63.88

19.55

8.18

XX.64

40.09

96.99

36.60

34.28

1.456

X.454

X.466

X.4587

7.3a

7-39

"•53

X5.

88.9

89.7

89.3

89.9

155

X71

X48

X55.

83.7

83.8

84.X

89.3
Totals.

46.90

a9-75

40.85

X16.8

49.00

3035

41.65

T91.0

5x40

31.90

43.25

X35.8

53.40

31.85

44.80

X3O.3

55.05

3a.65

46.10

X33.8

56.45

33-35

47-25

X37.X

5765

34.00

48.15

X39-9

58.55

34.65

4905

X42.3

59-35

35.35

49.80

X45-5

59-90

35.90

50.65

X46.5

60.50

36.60

51x5

X48.3

60.8s

3740

5X.65

X49-9

61.95

38.05

59.90

X51.5

6X.40

38.70

52.75

X52.9

6X.60

39.a5

53x0

X53.9

6x75

39.95

5360

X55.3

6x.8s

40.45

53.75

X56.t

6X.90

4X.00

54- xo

157.1

69.00

4X.50

54.60

158.1

69.15

41.95

54.75

X58.9

69. xo

42-45

54.84

X59.4

6a. X5

49.80

54.90

X59-9

6a.x5

43.05

55-00

x6o.a

6a.9o

43.35

55.25

160.8

472

Digitized by CjOOQIC

REPORTS ON AWARDS.

GROUP XII.

I. J. & I. K. Greenawalt, Harrisburg, Pa., U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report. — Commended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
manufacture of the leather.

2. Keen & Coates, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

OAK SLAUGHTER SOLE LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for very high skiU and superior workmanship, and for integrity in
manufacture.

. 3. J. B. Hoyt & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

OAK-TANNED BACKS SOLE LEATHER.

Report. — Commended for skilled workmanship in the preparation of the hide and manu-
facture of the leather; notable for the perfection of the finish.

4. Conrad, Fabel, & Mooney, Louisville, Ky., U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report. — Commended for high skill and integrity in the preparation of the hide and the
manufacture of the leather; notable for the cleanness and perfection of the flesh.

5. D. Frantz & Son, Louisville, Ky., U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for high skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
manufacture of the leather ; notable for the cleanness and perfection of the flesh.

6. Wedekind, Hallenberg, & Brother, Louisville, Ky., U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report. — Commended for high skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
the manufacture of the leather ; notable for the cleanness and perfection of the flesh.

7. P. H. Burt & Son, Mannington, W. Va., U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report. — Commended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
manufacture of the leather.

473

Digitized by CjOOQIC

4j6 reports on awards,

8. Louis C. Bardes, Cincinnati, Ohio, U. S.

OAK-TANNED HARNESS LEATHER.

HtporL — Commended for general skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide
and mantifacittire of the leather; notable for cleanness of flesh and fineness of grain.

9. Henry Freiberg, Cincinnati, Ohio, U. S.

OAK-TANNED HARNESS LEATHER.

H^^r/.— Commended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
tnarrafactuT^ of the leather.

10. Martin & Riedle, Cincinnati, Ohio, U. S.

OAK-TANNED HARNESS SKIRTING AND HOG-SKIN.

Rtfivrt* — Commended for good skill and workmanship in the manufacture.

II. Leas & McVitty, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report. — Icatlier made from Texas hides. Commended for skill and thorough work-
nuntibip in the preparation of the hide and the manufacture of tlie leather.

12. A. K. Shriver & Son, Union Mills, Md., U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER FROM TEXAS HIDES.
Rfp&rt, — Commended for high skill and workmanship and thoroughness in manufacture,
and noUcejible for fine finish and close trim.

13. Henry J. Rife, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Rfp&ti. — Commended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and the
mnnuffltture of the leather.

[4. C. A. Rippman, Newport, Perry County, Pa., U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.
Report — ^Commended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
matiuf&ctUTC of the leather.

15. Henry Kessler, Cincinnati, Ohio, U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER, SLAUGHTER HIDES.
Report . — Commended for good skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
manufiicture of the leather.

16. Elsas & Pritz, Cincinnati, Ohio, U. S.

K)AK SOLE LEATHER, SLAUGHTER HIDES,

j?if/flr^.— Commended for good skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide
and mflnufacmre of the leather.

474

Digitized by CjOOQIC

GROUP XIL 47

17. Arthur P. Baer & Co., Baltimore, Md., U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report, — Leather made from slaughtered hides ; hides well prepared ; notable for being
well filled in tanning.

18. C. Trautwein & Co., Loiiisville, Ky., U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for high skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
manufacture of the leather; notable for cleanness and perfection of the flesh.

19. E. & D. Nepper, Cincinnati, Ohio, U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER, SLAUGHTER HIDES.

Report, — Conmiended for good skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
manufacture of the leather.

2a A. & J. Groetzinger, Allegheny City, Pa., U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report, — Conmiended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
manufacture of the leather, and for cleanness of flesh.

21. Jenkins, SUylor, & Co., Baltimore, Md., U. S.

HEAVY OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for general good workmanship in the manufacture of the leather.

22. Sharp, Tudor, & Co., Baltimore, Md., U. S.

BUFF LEATHER, OAK-TANNED.

Report, — Commended for high skill in the production throughout.

23. Genseman, Miller, & Co., Pine Grove, Pa., U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
manufacture of the leather.

24. A. D. Faust & Son, Mount Union, Pa., U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for skill and worlonanship in the preparation of the hide and
manufacture of the leather.

25. James L. Sommerville, Bellefonte, Pa., U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for general skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide
and manufacture of the leather.

26. J. A. Bechtel & Son, Newport, Pa., U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report, — ^Notable for the skilled workmanship in the preparation of the hide, and for the
thorough manner in which the leather is tanned.

475

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^f REPORTS ON AWARDS.

27. James Calling, Pittsburg, Pa., U. S.

OAK HARNESS LEATHER.

^^/4?ff^— ^omincndcd for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
numufacture of the leather.

28. J. C. Lappe, Pittsburg, Pa., U. S.

OAK HARNESS LEATHER.

^^tf?f,— ^mmc^ndcid for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
manut'jLCturc of the icnther.

29. Alex. Holstein, Pittsburg, Pa., U. S.

OAK HARNESS LEATHER.

Mipori. — Commenikd for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
majQufacture of the le^Lher.

30. Charles B. Williams Sons, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER FROM SLAUGHTER HIDES.

Rtpof*t. — Commended for general skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide
and manufacture of the leather.

ji. George Appold & Son, Baltimore, Md., U. S.

OAK-TANNED SOLE LEATHER; OAK -TANNED CALF-SKINS.
M^^^i* — Leather tnnned with chestnut-oak bark; hides well prepared, manifesting skill-
fni wviifciivimihip in the tanning; calf-skins well tanned, soft, mellow, and of fair finish.

32. J. P. Wilkinson & Brother, Unionville, Pa., U. S.

OAK SOLE AND ROUGH LEATHER FOR HARNESS.
Rfporf. — Commended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
manufacture of the leather.

33. Prichett, Baugh, & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER FROM SPANISH HIDES.
,^ejWf. —Commtnded for general skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide
and loanufacture of the leather.

34. Michael Eckert, Cincinnati, Ohio, U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER, SLAUGHTER HIDES.
Repert^ ^Coitimcnrled for good skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
mAmtfacttire of the leather.

:^S. Lappe & Hax, Pittsburg, Pa., U. S.

OAK HARNESS LEATHER.
Rtforf. — Commrtided for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
manufact^e of the leather.

36. Spanogle & Pannebaker, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER FROM TEXAS HIDES.

R^ffft. — Coimn ended for general skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hides
and maiiufa4:tu/e of Lhe leather. Notable for solidity and cleanness of flesh.

476

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GROUP XII. 45

37. Lang & Wanner, Cincinnati, Ohio, U. S.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report. — Commended for high skill, integrity, and thorough workmanship in the prepa-
ration of the hide and the manufacture of the leather.

38. Ohio Falls Oak Leather Co., Louisville, Ky., U. S.

OAK-TANNED HARNESS AND SHOE SKIRTING LEATHER.

Report. — G>mmended for high skill and excellence in the manufacture.

39. Kiefer, Stifel, & Co., Allegheny, Pa., U. S.

OAK HARNESS LEATHER.

Report. — Commended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
manufacture of the leather.

40. Amos HoUinger, Lancaster, Pa., U. S.

OAK HARNESS LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for high skill and superior workmanship in the manufacture
throughout.

41. Jewett & Keating, Buffalo, N. Y., U. S.

HEMLOCK SOLE LEATHER (TEXAS HIDES).

Report. — Conunended for general skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide
and manufacture of the leather.

42. Perry & Collins, Whitneys, N. Y., U. S.

HEMLOCK SOLE LEATHER.

Report. — Commended for marked skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide
and the manufacture of the leather. Leather made in the Lisle tannery.

43. Lapham, Costello, & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

HEMLOCK SOLE LEATHER.
^^r^rA— Commended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and the
manufacture of the leather. Leather made in the Camden and Oarendon tanneries.

44. Bush ft Howard, Buffalo, N. Y., U. S.

HEMLOCK SOLE LEATHER.

Report. — Sole leather made from Texas hides. Commended for skill in the preparation
of the hide and for thorough workmanship in the manufacture of the leather

45. A. Corbin ft Co., New Milfbrd, Pa., U. S.

HEMLOCK SOLE LEATHER.

Report. — Commended for excellence and integrity in the preparation of the hide and
the manufacture of the leather. '

477

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|0 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

46. Hoyt Brothers, New York, N. Y., U. S.

HEMLOCK SOLE LEATHER.

Hepi^ri, — Commended for skilled workmanship in the preparation of the hide and manu-
facture of the leather. Notable for being well fleshed and of good color. The products
of the Humboldt, Woodland, and Delaware tanneries.

47- J. W. & A. P. Howard & Co., Cony, Pa., U. S.

HEMLOCK SOLE LEATHER FROM TEXAS HIDES.

^^^tfrf .-^Commended for excellence in skill and workmanship in the preparation of the
hide ftivd mAtiufncture of the leather. Notable for clear and uniform color.

48. Edward Spalding, Boston, Mass., U. S.

HEMLOCK SOLE LEATHER.

^^^^onfi^-Conimended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and the
mi&iifachm: oi the leather. Notable for uniformity of color. Tanned at St. Regis tau-
oeiy,

49. J. F. Schoellkopf ft Son, Buffalo, N. Y., U. S.

HEMLOCK SOLE LEATHER (TEXAS HIDE).

Report, — Commended for general skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide
and manufacture of the leather.

50. Lapham, Smibert, ft Co., Chicago, 111., U. S.

HEMLOCK SOLE LEATHER.
Report. — Commended for general skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide
and manufacture of the leather. Notable for good color.

51. Thomas E. Proctor, Boston, Mass., U. S.

HEMLOCK SOLE LEATHER.

Mtp9ri* — Commended for workmanship in the preparation of the hide and the ma \fac-
ttifv of die leather, and for good color.

52. Barnes ft Merritt, New York, N. Y., U. S.

HEMLOCK SOLE LEATHER.
Report. — Commended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and the
manufacture of the leather. Notable for the uniformity of color. Leather tanned in the
Oswego tanneries,.

53, Thome, McFarlane, ft Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

HEMLOCK SOLE LEATHER FROM THORNDALE TANNERY.

^//^r/.— Commended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and the
manufacture of the leather.

54. Robertson ft Hoople, New York, N. Y., U. S.

HEMLOCK SOLE LEATHER.

Report. — Commended for excellence in the skill and workmanship in the preparation of
the hide and manufacture of the leather.

478

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GROUP XIL 51

55. Beach ft Dodge, Harrisville, N. Y., U. S.

HEMLOCK SOLE LEATHER.

Report, — G>mmended for high skill and workmanship throughout in the manufacture of
the leather.

56. A. Rumsey & Co., Buffalo, N. Y., U. S.

HEMLOCK SOLE LEATHER.

Report. — Sole leather made from Texas hides. Commended for skill in the preparation
of the hide, and for thorough workmanship in the manufacture of the leather.

57 Grant ft Horton, Ridgeway, Pa., U. S.

HEMLOCK SOLE LEATHER.

Report. — Commended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and the
manufacture of the leather.

58. J. E. Bulkley ft Son, New York, N. Y., U. S.

HEMLOCK SOLE LEATHER.

Report. — Commended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and the
manufacture of the leather. Leather made in Canadensis, Unionvale, and Aldenville
tanneries.

59. C. H. ft G. L. WUliams, Buffalo, N. Y., U. S.

HEMLOCK SOLE LEATHER.

Report. — Sole leather made from Texas hides. Commended for skill in the preparation
of the hide, and for thorough workmanship in the manufacture of the leather.

60. Koshland ft Brothers, Portland, Oregon, U. S.

HEMLOCK AND OAK TANNED HARNESS LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
manufacture of the leather.

61. Mosser & Keck, AUentown, Pa., U. S.

UNION CROP LEATHER.

Report. — Commended for high skill and superior workmanship in the preparation of the
hide and manufacture of the leather.

62. Schultz, Southwick, ft Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

UNION CROP SOLE LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and the
manufacture of the leather. Leather made in the Union, Keystone, Scotia, Nicholson, and
Caledonia tanneries.

63. Daniel P. Ray, Tyrone, Pa., U. S.

UNION CROP LEATHER.

Report. — Commended for high skill and workmanship in the entire manufacture of the
leather.

479

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52 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

64. John Bare, Mount Union, Pa., U. S.

UNION CROP LEATHER.

Ref^ri. — Cominended for general skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide
aiid TuaauTactore of the leather.

65. W. H. Rosensteel & Son, Johnstown, Pa., U. S.

UNION CROP LEATHER.
^f/ffj-A— Commended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
manufacture of the leather. Notable for clean flesh and good color.

66. James Davis & Co., Pittston, Luzerne County, Pa., U. S.

UNION CROP SOLE LEATHER.

Rfp&rt — Commended for high skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide
and the manufacture of the leather.

67. Keese & Thome, New York, N. Y., U. S.

UNION CROP LEATHER FROM WELLSBURY TANNERY.

Rtpartj — Commended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and the
manufacture of the leather. Notable for being well fleshed.

68. A. & D. McKinstry, Gardiner, N. Y., U. S.

UNION CROP SOLE LEATHER.

Rfj!^rt. — Commended for good skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide
ftnd the manufacture of the leather.

69. T. P. Howell & Co., Newark, N. J., U. S.

PATENT LEATHER IN VARIETY.

Rtp&ri. — ^The patent leather consists of split skirting, winker, bow and trimmings, and
collar leather. Commended for high skill and workmanship in its production. The collar
leather b notable for strength and toughness of finish ; also leather for upholstering in
rarictf, shows notable excellence in its manufacture.

70. S. Halsey & Son, Newark, N. J., U. S.

PATENT AND ENAMELED LEATHER FOR CARRIAGES, HARNESS, AND SHOES ; OIL-TOP

LEATHER.

Riport* — ^The carriage leather, comprising enameled landau trimming, buggy top, calache,
long grain boot and belt leather, is all of excellent workmanship ; also collar railing, shoe-
tipping, soft dash, smooth dash, grain dash, skerling, and cap-front, all notable for skill in
production.

71. Henry G. Ely & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

PEBBLED, GLAZED, AND SPLIT LEATHER.

Rfppri, — Commended as showing high skill and workmanship in the manufacture.
Notable for uniformity of grain and softness of texture.

480

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GROUP XIL

72. J. S. Rockwell & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

SHEEP LEATHXR IN A VARIETY OF COLORS AND FINISHES.

Report. — As an exhibit consisting entirely of sheep leather, we consider it unexcelled in
extent, variety, and perfection of styles of finish and of shades and colors. We would
specially mention for the accuracy and perfection of finish, their lined and diced goods,
for hats, pocket books, satchels, and the imitations of goat, seal, hog, and alligator.

73. Chas. Knees, Baltimore, Md., U. S.

SAMPLES OF CORDOVAN LEATHER.

Report, — G>mmended for excellence of manufacture, being very fine, supple, and tough,
and of excellent, clear, permanent black.

74. Chatfield, Underwood, & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

BELT LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
manufacture of the leather.

75. P. Osborne, Jr., ft Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

WAX KIP LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for skill and excellence in the manufacture, and notable for fine-
ness of texture.

76. J. WeU & Brothers, Chicago, 111., U. S.

WAX LEATHER AND CALF-SKINS.

Report, — Commended for general good skill in the preparation and manufacture.

77. C. Ludy & Sons, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

OAK-TANNED CALF-SKINS.

Report, — A very excellent exhibit of oak-tanned calf-skins. Well tanned and finished
mellow, soft and pliable stock ; but little flank.

78. Pred. Woelfel, Allegheny City, Pa., U. S.

HARNESS LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and in
the manufacture of the leather. Notable for fineness of grain and mellowness of the leather.

79. David Mofifat & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

HARNESS AND RUSSET LEATHER IN VARIETY.
Report, — This leather is the product of different tanneries made under the direction of
the exhibitor, and is notable for high skill in selection of the leather and superior work-
manship in its finish.

80. Page Belting Co., Concord, N. H., U. S.

BELT AND LACE LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for skill and workmanship in the manufacture of the leather, so
as not to weaken the tensive properties of the hide.
31 4»i

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54 REPORTS ON AWAJ^DS.

Si. Henry L. Pairbrother & Co., Pawtucket, R. I., U. S.

.BELT LEATHER (GAMBIER TANNED) AND LACE LEATHER.

Riforf, — Commended for good skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide
■nd xDantLfcictore of the leather.

82. Prederick Braun, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

KIP AND CALF SKINS (OAK-TANNED).

Rtp^4 — Commended for skill and workmanship in the manufacture throughout

83. Philip C. Zipp, Baltimore, Md., U. S.

WAX CALF (oak-tanned) AND BOARDED GRAIN KIP-SKINS.

Rf/tfrf: — Commended for general good workmanship.

84. Walker, Oakley, ft Co., Chicago, lU., U. S.

CALF AND WAXED UPPER LEATHER.

Rfperf.^Evidencmg high skill and superior workmanship in the tanning and finishing;
ilf<^skin5 notable for plumpness of shoulder and flank, and closeness of trim.

85. Butler, Dunn, A Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

BUFF LEATHER.

Rff6ff. — Cbmmended for skill and workmanship in the manufacture.

86. W. W. A J. E. Mooney, Columbus, Ind., U. S.

SOLE HARNESS AND WHOLE HIDE ROUGH LEATHER.

Rf^ori. — Commended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
Mjiiiufaaure of the leather.

87. B. P. Thompson ft Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

BUFF, PEBBLED GRAIN, GLAZED AND SPLIT LEATHER.

R£;^&rt.^^All these varieties exhibit skill and good workmanship in the production.

S8. W. Schollenberger ft Sons, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

CALF-KID, RUSSIA LEATHER, AND SHEEP SKINS.
Reporr. — Commended for the skillful and superior manufacture. The calf-kid is notable
for suppk-ness^ toughness, closeness of fibre, and excellence of color; roans, linings, etc.,
for clearness, evenness, and beauty of colors ; the Russian leather for fine tough grain,
beauty of culor and finish, and permanence of the odor peculiar to that leather.

89. J. ft I. K. Greenawalt, Harrisburg, Pa., U. S.

CALF AND KIP SKINS.

R€^ort. — Calf-skins very soft and mellow, well prepared, very loose in flanks and shoulder;
kip-skins well prepared and skillfully handled.

482

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GROUP XII, 55

90. Adams & Keen, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

CURA(;OA BRUSH KID.

Report, — Commended for the thorough and skillful manner in which the different pro-
cesses of manufacture have been performed, producing stock unexcelled for fineness of
grain and texture combined with softness, pliability, and toughness.

91. Wentz & Clark, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

CAPE, OIL BOOT, BRUSH GRAINS, PEBBLES, AND FRENCH MOROCCO; TAMPICO, GLAZED, AND
DULL PEBBLES AND BRUSH GRAINS.

Report, — The exhibit shows the most careful, intelligent, and skillful workmanship in all
the processes of manufacture ; all the details of manufacturing have been faithfully carried
out, and the result is mellow, pliable, tough leather of superior excellence. The black is
very good, and the gloss clear and permanent.

92. Pusey, Scott, & Co., Wilmington, Del., U. S.

SOUTH AMERICAN AND PATNA FRENCH MOROCCO, PEBBLES, STRAIGHT GRAINS, AND
IMITATION OF FRENCH KID.
Report, — Commended for general excellence of manufacture, the stock being tanned open
and by a new process. Owing partly to the peculiar tannage and to skillful workmanship
in finishing, the product is firm yet mellow leather, of very fine grain, with full, plump
flanks and edges. The black is strong and clear, and the finish excellent.

93. P. Schumann & Son, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

CALF-KID.

Report, — Commended for excellence of manufacture. The stock is firm but mellow,
the color is clear and good, the grain is tough and strong, and the texture fine.

94. Wm. Bush ft Co., Wilmington, Del., U. S.

TAMPICO AND CAPE MAROONS AND DULL STRAIGHT GRAINS.

Report. — The maroons are remarkable for richness and regularity of color and excel-
lence of manufacture ; the dull straight grains for the fineness of the grain and its regu-
larity over all parts of the skin ; general excellence of finish.

95. Wm. Amer ft Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

TAMPICO AND CAPE FRENCH MOROCCO AND PEBBLES AND MOCHA KID.
Report. — Commended for general excellence of manufacture, being well tanned and of
good color and finish.

96. J. B. ft F. M. Weed ft Co., Binghamton, N. Y., U. S.

PEBBLE GRAIN.

Report, — Conmiended for the different styles of finish, which are of high excellence and
notable for fineness of grain and softness of texture.

97. Josiah F. Guild, Boston, Mass., U. S.

PEBBLE GRAIN, IMITATION GOAT IN COLORS, AND BUFF LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for general skill and workmanship in the manufacture.

4«3

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56 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

98. Hubner ft HeUer, New York, N. Y., U. S.

OAK-TANNED CALF-SKINS.

Rtp&r(. — A very fine exhibit of oak-tanned calf-skins, well tanned and finished ; mellow,
■o^f and pliable stock; runs well in shoulders and kidneys.

99. G. W. Cunningham, Nashville, Tenn., U. S.

OAK HARNESS AND WHOLE HIDE, ROUGH SLAUGHTER.

^ii^^«f/¥--Commended for good skill and workmanship in the manufacture. Notable for

100. S. G. Hutchinson, Johnstown, N. Y., U. S.

SKINS OF DEER DRESSED.

^^^h^.<— Skins of Maraham Jack deer, dressed for gloves, etc. ; skins of deer dressed,
softy toagh^ and skillfully handled.

loi. Edwin Chambers, West Chester, Pa., U. S.

OAK-TANNED CALF-SKINS.

Mfpctt. — Commended for general skill and workmanship in the manufacturing through-

102. Maynard, Ely, ft Rose, Baltimore, Md., U. S.

CALF-SKINS.

RtpQrt, — Commended for high skill in tanning and finishing, and notable for thorough
vrorkm^nship.

103. Francis OXallaghan, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SKr\XRS TANNED AND DYED IN VARIOUS COLORS AND TINTS, AND FINISHED IN DIF-
FKREINT STYLES FOR BOOKBINDERS' USE, POCKET-BOOK AND SATCHEL MAKERS, HAT-
TERS, ETC.
Ripori. — ^ While this exhibit is not as extensive and varied as some others, the colors arc

excellent, and the styles of finish exhibited are remarkable for evenness, regularity, and

excellence .

104. A. B. Martin 9l Co., 'Lynn^ Mass., U. S.

SOUTH AMERICAN BRIGHT AND DULL FINISH STRAIGHT GRAINS, RIO HACHE IMITATION
f>F FRI^NCH KID, WHITE ALUM LAMB-SKINS, AND BLACK GLOVE SHEEP AND STRAIGHT-
fiRAIN CALF.

Report. — The goat stock commended for thoroughness and excellence of manufacture,
6uencs5 of grain, and clearness and brilliancy of black ; white lamb-skins commended
for puHty and clearness of color, and fineness and elasticity of texture; the black glove
sheep coTTimended for the purity and permanence of the black; the grained calf com-
menced for excellence of manufacture, toughness, fineness, and softness.

105. Wilson, Walker, ft Co., Leeds, England.

COLORED ROANS, SKIVERS, MOROCCO, SEAL-SKINS, CALF-SKINS, AND RUSSIA HIDES, FOR
SHOK WORK, BOOKBINDING, POCKET BOOKS, FURNITURE, HATIERS, SATCHEL-MAKERS,
AND FANCY GOODS; CHAMOIS-SKINS, PLAIN AND COLORED, FOR DOMESTIC USES AND
• FANCY GOODS.

RrpQTi. — We feel that we cannot too highly commend this exhibit for its extent, for the

484

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GROUP XIL 57

variety of kinds of goods exhibited, for the variety, perfection, and evenness of the colors,
and for the variety of styles of^finish, together with the excellence in each particular. The
large range of work exhibited shows the most ample resources and facilities for producing
all grades of fine goods in this line in the greatest perfection.

io6. The Edinburgh Western Tanning, Currying, ft Japanning Co. (Limited),

Edinburgh, Scotland.

LEATHER.

Report. — ^The exhibit comprises fair and brown hog-skins for saddlery, japanned leather,
long-grained enameled top leather, and brown bridle leather, and evinces the most thorough
workmanship and skill in preparing the hides and skins, and in tanning and finishing, all
of which are done in a very superior manner.

107. John Clark 9l Sons, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

SOLE AND HARNESS LEATHER AND BASILS.

Report, — Commended for good skill and workmanship in the manufacture of the sole
leather tanned with wattle bark.

108. Wallis ft Co., Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

MOROCCO AND SHEEP-SKINS IN A VARIETY OF COLORS AND STYLES OF FINISH, FOR
SHOES, BOOKBINDING, AND FURNITURE.

Report. — Commended for skill in tanning, coloring, and finishing; being notable for
evenness and permanence of color and evenness and regularity of the grain. An exhibit
evincing skilled workmanship.

109. Brearley Brothers, Oeelong, Victoria, Australia.

SOLE LEATHER TANNED WITH WATTLE BARK.

Report. — Commended for good skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide
and manufacture of the leather; notable for the perfection of finish and solidity of the
leather.

1 10. T. B. Stephens, Ekibin Tannery, Queensland, Australia.

BLACK-GRAINED AND WAX KIP; KANGAROO AND GOAT SKINS IN DIFFERENT FINISHES.

Report. — Commended for the skill and enterprise evinced; the industry, being quite
new in this country, is entitled to mention for the progress made.

III. Alderson ft Sons, Sydney, New South Wales, Australia.

JAPANNED AND ENAMELED SPLIT HIDES FOR CARRIAGE AND SADDLERY WORK ; ENAM-
ELED KANGAROO-SKINS FOR BOOTS AND SHOES.

Report. — Commended for the skilled workmanship evinced in the leather, which is
well tanned and worked, the japanning being very good ; specially worthy of mention as
evincing progress in this industry in a new country.

485

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jg REPORTS ON AWARDS.

112. Wright, Davenport, ft Co., Sydney, New South Wales, Australia.

£Ot>t LEATHER AND ENAMELED AND RUSSET KANGAROO-SKINS FOR BOOTS AND SHOES.

Heport. — The leather is thoroughly and well tanned, and is tough and pliable. The
euiirtiel is of good color, and is tough and durable. The product evinces skilled work-
tu Lin ship and the realization of the resources of a new countiy. The sole leather is good,
^lid, and well tanned, and evinces thorough skill in the manufacture.

113. Heath & Northey, Montreal, Canada.

HEMLOCK SOLE LEATHER.

Rcp&rt. — Commended for high excellence in skill and workmanship throughout in the
monufo^cture of the leather.

1 14. Mosely ft Ricker, Montreal, Canada.

GRAIN, BUFF, AND SPLIT LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for general good skill in the manufacture throughout.

115. Wm. Craig ft Son, Port Hope, Ontario, Canada.

TANNED AND FINISHED SHEEP AND ROANS.

Rep&rt, — This exhibit comprises saddlers* russets, wood, red, and maroon roans and law
^heep; is well tanned and finished; uniform and clear colors. The law sheep is specially
Bne and well finished.

116. Wladimir Tannery Co., St. Petersburg, Russia.

LEATHER.
Report, — The hides tanned whole, well prepared and well tanned, producing very firm,
lotid leather ; willow bark tannage.

117. Ostroem Brothers, Uleaborg, Russia.

SOLE LEATHER.

Rtport, — Sole leather in sides very well prepared, and Russia leather well tanned, firm^
iM^^id, and durable.

118. Adolphus Bauerfeind, Warsaw, Russia.

RUSSIA LEATHER AND CALF FOR BOOTS, SHOES, TRUNKS, AND SATCHELS.

Report, — ^The exhibit evinces skilled workmanship in its tannage and finish, and by care-
ful management and the use of approved methods and appliances, good, soft, serviceable
le^er is produced, at very moderate prices.

1 19. Alexandrof ft Alafoozof, Kazan, Russia.

HEAVY BLACK AND RED RUSSIA LEATHER FOR BOOTS AND TRUNKS.

Report, — ^This leather is thoroughly well tanned and finished, and evinces the most in-
telligent and skillful management in the different processes of manufacture.

120. Temler ft Schwede, Warsaw, Russia.

SOLE LEATHER, CARRIAGE-TOP LEATHER, AND GRAIN FINISH CALF-SKINS.
Rtpi^rt. — Commended for the thoroughness and skill displayed in different processes of
fiianufacture; the top leather and grain-finish calf being especially worthy of commenda-

486

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GROUP XIL 59

tion for a very high degree of skill in their manufacture, being very soft and pliable, tough,
and of exceedingly good black. The top leather is not excelled by any of this style of
finish coming under our observation.

121. T. Sorokin, Moscow, Russia.

COLT-SKINS, FINISHED AND DYED FOR KID GLOVES.

Report, — This exhibit evinces the most skilled workmanship in the adaptation of a new
material for this purpose. The product is of exceedingly fine texture, and very soft, elastic,
and tough; the colors are very delicate, even, and fine.

122. Holayashi Sozai, Tokio, Japan.

SOFT DEER-SKINS, TANNED AND FIGURED IN A VARIETY OF PATTERNS.

Report. — Commended for skill and ingenuity in the preparation of the skins, and the
application of the colors in a variety of tasteful designs and figures, by a peculiar process,
for upholstery trimmings and fine leather work.

123. Saint-Saens Collective Exhibit of Sole Leather, St.-Saens, France.

SOLE LEATHER.

Report. — Commended for excellence, faithfulness, and skill in the preparation of the
hides, and notable for the thorough workmanship in manufacturing the leather, and for
solidity and fineness in the finish.

124. Clav6 Bertrand, Coulommiers, Prance.-

SOLE LEATHER FROM DOMESTIC AND BUENOS AYRES HIDES, BELT LEATHER, HARNESS
LEATHER, CALF-SKINS, LEATHER STRAPS FOR WOODEN SHOES.
Report. — Commended for the high skill and superior workmanship in the preparation of
the hide and manufacture of the leather.

125. A. Fortier-Beaulieu, Paris, Prance.

SOLE LEATHER FOR SADDLERY, HOG-SKINS FOR SADDLERY AND FURNITURE, DYED SHEEP-
SKINS, AND GRAINED LEATHER FOR CARRIAGE-TOPS.

Report. — This is a very superior exhibit. Commended for the skill and thorough work-
manship in tanning and finishing ; the colors are clear and uniform, and the product is
first-class.

126. P. Sueur & Son, Paris, Prance.

GRAINED AND ENAMELED LEATHER, BLACK AND IN FANCY COLORS, FOR CARRIAGES
AND SHOW PURPOSES, PLAIN BLACK VARNISHED LEATHER FOR CARRIAGES, HARNESS,
AND MILITARY EQUIPMENTS.
Report. — All the varieties of leather finished in this manufactory are tanned and worked
through all the different processes in their own factory, and are noticeable for the thorough-
ness and excellence of workmanship. The leather is soft and pliable, and the varnish or
japan, while being smooth and of excellent color and gloss, is remarkably tough and
durable, not liable to stick or break.

127. Sorro Brothers, Millau, Avejrron, Prance.

BLACK CALF-SKINS.

Report. — The female skins of the exhibit are fine, plump, well filled in the flanks, and
of good general quality.

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60 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

128. A. Basset 9l Co., Paris, Prance.

BLACK GI-ACE AND MATT KID, AND FANCY COLORED KID FOR LADIES* FINE SHOES AND

SLIPPERS.

RfPsrL — This line of goods is a specialty with Mr. Basset, in which he has attained Xa
a degret^ of excellence especially in his black kid, as to softness and toughness, with clear-
ness of biack, and brilliancy of gloss and permanency of the same, which is unequaled
by any coming under our observation. His fancy colors are clear, fine, and of generally
excellent qualities.

129. Jules AUain, Paris, Prance.

BLACK MOROCCO IN STRAIGHT GRAINS, DULL AND BRIGHT PEBBLES, AND PLAIN FINISH

IN OIL.

Rfpi^rL — Commended for thorough and skillful workmanship in the manufacture, and
good stock.

130. Bajrvet Brothers, Paris, France.

rANCY COLORED AND BLACK MOROCCO IN A VARIETY OF COLORS AND STYLES OF FINISH,
FANCY-COLORED SHEEP-SKIN, AND COLORED CALF.

Eipcrf. — The exhibit comprises a full line of morocco and skeep-skins in all the different
colors and finishes, suitable for books, pocket books, upholstery, and shoes, and for beauty
and evenness of color and excellence of finish is unsurpassed.

131. Duchesne Brothers, Paris, France.

MOflOCCO IN BLACK AND FANCY COLORS AND A VARIETY OF STYLES OF FINISH.

RffArf- — This exhibit is a very extensive one, and varied as to colors and styles of finish.
It b especially noteworthy for the regularity, evenness, and perfection of the grain and
color in ihe levant grain and pebbles, both in black and fancy colors, for books, satchels,
carriages, furniture, and shoes. The color is beautifully clear and even, and the stock
mellowp taugh, and thoroughly well manufactured.

132. Ocreman & Witdoeck, Malines, Belgium.

ENAMELED AND PATENT LEATHER.

RfperL — Commended for high skill and workmanship in the preparation and manufac-
ture throughout.

133. J. Lebermuth ft Co., Brussels, Belgium.

GOAT MOROCCO IN PEBBLES, LONG AND LEVANT GRAIN, AND FINISHED CALF-SKINS.

Rcf&rL — Morocco. Commended for fineness of grain and good color, and for good
workmanship in tanning and finishing; calf-skms commended for fineness of texture and
finish, smoothness, and suppleness.

134. Francisco Cazador Martin, Castellon, Spain.

GOAT AND SHEEP MOROCCO.

Report. — Commended for skill in tanning, coloring, and finishing.

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135. Antonio Cort Sotorra, Reus, Spain.

BLACK AND FAIR PEBBLES (OR SHAGREEN) MOROCCO, AND GRAIN- FINISH ED CALF.

Report. — This exhibit evinces skill and careful workmanship in the tanning and finishing;
the stock is mellow and tough, the color good, and the grain even and good.

136. Widow Machado & Sons, Torres Novas, Santarem, Portugal.

WHOLE HIDE OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for high skill and superior workmanship in the preparation of the
hide and manufacture of the leather.

137. Antonio Domingos d'Oliveira Gama, Oporto, Portugal.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for general skill and workmanship in the manufacture.

138. Jose Maria d'Andrade & Brothers, Valen9a, Portugal.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report. — Conmiended for general skill and workmanship in the manufacture.

139. Rodrigo Antonio Leite de Moraes, Oporto, Portugal,

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for general skill and workmanship in the manufacture.

140. JoSo Luis Smidt, Oporto, Portugal.

TANNED CALF-SKINS, BLACK AND RUSSET FINISH.

Report. — Commended for good quality of skins, being well tanned and finished. The
leather is of fine texture, and fairly filled up.

141. Francisco F. Qodhino, Lisbon, Portugal.

BARK-TANNED GOAT, SHEEP, CALF, AND KIP SKINS, AND SOLE LEATHER.

Report. — The exhibit evinces a good degree of skill and thorough workmanship in the
tanning and finishing, the goat and sheep skins being well tanned and worked throughout;
the calf and kip skins are well handled and fairly well finished ; sole leather well prepared
and tanned, and very well finished.

142. Antonio Sypriana, Lisbon, Portugal.

BARK-TANNED SHEEP-SKINS FOR SADDLERY, ETC., BARK-TANNED GOAT-SKINS, RUSSET

FINISH, FOR SHOES.

Report. — The tannage and workmanship are good ; the skins are well finished, but the
style of finish of the goat-skins is only suitable for home market.

143. Imperial Tannery, Beicos, Turkey.

LEATHER MOROCCO AND SHEEP-SKINS.

Report. — This exhibit is extensive and varied, comprising heavy leather for boots and
portmanteaus, calf patent leather, Russia leather, and morocco. In common with the entire

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leather exliibk of Turkey, it has been badly cared for, and is much damaged and the finish
injured, Ir i^ thoroughly tanned, and the colored morocco, especially the red, blue, and
yellovr, b nouble for the beauty, evenness, and permanence of the colors.

144, General Commission for the National Exhibits, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

HIDES, SKINS, LEATHER, AND SADDLERY.
Report. — The exhibit comprises shoes from the province of Rio Grande do Norte ; leather
suii harness, used by herdsmen, from the province of Ceara; saddle from province of Santa
CathariD^; a collection of skins of animals from province of Matto Grosso; panther and
other skins from province of Goyaz; collection of skins of animals from province of
Parana ; hides and leather from province of Rio Grande do Norte ; skins of animals from
province of Al^oas; skins of animals from province of Amazonas; hides and leather
from province of Cear&; and hides and leather from province of Sio Paulo. It is an in-
structive exhibit, illustrating the different animals of Brazil, and the condition of the
leather industry, etc., of this great empire.

145. J. Feydel & Son, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

COLLECTION OF TANNED SKINS AND LEATHER.
Report. *^Tinh exhibit consists of a collection of skins of various kinds of animals,
including a Large spotted steer hide tanned with the hair on, and samples of russet
grain kip and calf and other leather, and evinces skill in the preparation and tanning
throughout, the skins tanned with the hair on being specially notable for the excellence in
their preparalion.

146. Jose A. Coltho, Province of S80 Paulo, Brazil.

SKIRTING LEATHER FOR SHOE SOLES.

Report, — Commended for the skill evinced in the preparation of the hides, and in the
tanning and ilulshing, being well tanned, very clean on the flesh, solid, and pliable.

147. F. Gomes dos Santos, Lima, Province of S80 Paulo, Brazil.

SHOE SKIRTING AND SOLE LEATHER.

Repifrt'—'ThiA leather evinces skill in its manufacture, being well prepared, tanned, and
Emisked. Is £rm, pliable, good leather.

148. Desideri Letallos, Salta, Argentine Republic.

LEATHER.

Rfpiirf. — This exhibit consists of harness and other leathers; is well tanned and finished,
beiog solid and pliable and of good color and good smooth grain.

149. Ocampo & Acosta, Cordoba, Argentine Republic.

LEATHER.
Rtp&rt. — This exhibit comprises fair or russet grain leather and other leathers, and is
well tanned and finished, suited to home market.

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150. SantiUan Brothers, Santiago, Argentine Republic

LEATHER.

Report, — This is a large exhibit, comprising sole leather, calf-skins, grain leather, etc.
It is well tanned throughout, and is finished to suit the wants of their home market. The
calf-skins are specially noticeable for their exceeding fineness of texture, suppleness, and
toughness.

151. Antoni Varale, Biella, Italy.

OAK-TANNED BELT LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for general skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide
and manufacture of the leather.

152. Nicolo Baluffi & Sons, Chiaravalle, Italy.

SOLE LEATHER TANNED WITH VALONEA AND OAK-BARK.

Report. — ^This product is notable for high skill in the preparation of the hide and the
perfection of the manufacture.

153. Casarino Marcello, Genoa, Italy.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for general good skill in the preparation of the hide and manu-
facture of the leather.

154. Agostino Baldini & Co., Pescia, Lucca, Italy.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for high skill and superior workmanship in the preparation of the
hide and manufacture of the leather.

155. Pietro Mercurelli, Fabriano, Italy.

SHEEP-SKINS TANNED AND DYED IN VARIOUS COLORS AND FINISHED IN DIFFERENT

COLORS.

Report, — Commended for good colors and workmanship in the manufacture, showing
progress in this industry. Suitable for their home market.

156. George Schaller, Lahr, Germany.

COLORED MOROCCO.

Report. — The exhibit is remarkable for the delicacy and purity of the colors and ex-
cellence of finish. A superior exhibit as to extent and variety of shades and colors and
excellence of manufacture.

157. Emanuel Meijer, Berlin, Germany.

COLORED KID GLOVE LEATHER.

Report, — Commended for fineness of texture, elasticity, variety and excellence of colors,
and general excellence of manufacture.

158. Carl Simon's Sons, Kim-on-the-Nahe, Germany.

BLACK AND COLORED MOROCCO AND GRAIN CALF.
Report. — This is a very extensive exhibit, comprising black and fancy colored morocco
in all the styles of finish, for the varied wants of the trade, and evinces skillful workman-
ship in tanning, coloring, and finishing.

491

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64 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

159, Philip Jacob Spicharz, Offenbach, Germany.

BLACK AND BRONZE GLACE KID AND MATT KID.

Rep(frt.—'Y\i\^ is a small exhibit, but evinces a good degree of skill and workmanship,
ihe color l^rng clear and permanent, the grain tough, and the texture fine and supple.

160. Adolf Jellinek, Lieben, near Prague, Austria.

WHITE KID GLOVE LEATHEJR.

R^rt. — Commended for general excellence of quality, being very soft, fine, and elastic,
and ttmform and clear in whiteness.

161. H. M. Eckstein, Lieben, near Prague, Austria

WHITE KID GLOVE LEATHER.

Rtf&riu — Commended for superiority of manufacture, being of the finest texture, very
tough and cliosiic, and pure, clear white.

162. A. H. Suess ft Sons, Vienna, Austria.

MOROCCO IN VARIETY OF COLORS FOR SHOES, BOOKBINDING, POCKET BOOKS, AND FANCY

GOODS.

Report. — Commended for general excellence of colors and finish, comprising a great
variety of i^hades and colors, which are full and clebr.

163. Franz Schmitt, Vienna, Austria.

CALF-SKINS.

Report. — Commended for skill and workmanship in the manufacture throughout.

164. I. Foges, Vienna, Austria.

CALF PATENT^ LllATHER, WAX CALF, ARMY BOOT LEATHER, AND DICED CALF AND
c:(iAlH LEATHER; ALSO GOAT-SKINS LEATHER IN VARIETY.

Report. — This exhibit indicates high skill and good workmanship in the manufacture,
throughout*

165. Dalens Tannery, Flekkefjord, Norway.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Rfp&rt. — Commended for high skill and superior workmanship in the preparation of the
hides and manafticture of the leather.

166. A. T5nneson, Christiania, Norway.

HARNESS, RUSSET, BOOT AND BOARDED GRAIN LEATHER.

Rip&ri. — Commended for skill and workmanship in the manufacture.

167. Fossens Tannery, Flekkefjord, Norway.

OAK SOLE LEATHER. .

Rtpcrt. — Commended for high skill and superior workmanship in the preparation of the
\iides and mantifacture of the leather; notable for mellowness and fineness of grain.

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168. Klem Hansen ft Co., Trondhjem, Norway.

OAK-TANNED SOL'E LEATHER.

Report. — Commended for high skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hides
and manufacture of the leather.

169. Samuel B. Meyer, Bergen, Norway.

SOLE LEATHER MARKED "A," "B," " C."

Report. — Commended as showing high skill and superior workmanship in the manu
facture, throughout.

170. Flekkefjord Tannery, Flekkefjord, Norway.

OAK SOLE LEATHER.

Report. — Commended for high skill and superior workmanship in the preparation of the
hides and manufacture of the leather.

171. Leather Dressers' Corporation, Smyrna, Turkey.

LEATHER, CALF-SKINS, MOROCCO, AND SHEEP-SKINS.

Report. — This corporation exhibits patent leather, calf-skins, morocco, and sheep-skins,
all ot which are evidently well tanned ; but the exhibit has been so badly damaged by
exposure and want of proper care that the finish has been much destroyed. The exhibit
is notable principally for the excellence of color in the red and yellow morocco.

172. Serano Brothers, Caraccas, Venezuela.

SOLE LEATHER.
Report. — Commended for skill and workmanship in the preparation of the hide and
manufacture of the leather.

173. Edwin C. Burt, New York, N. Y., U. 8.

LADIES' FINE MACHINE-SEWED SHOES.

Report. — Commended for superiority of workmanship, lightness and fineness of work ;
bevel edge and gallooning; sewed on the McKay & Goodyear sewing machine; in variety
of color of satin, beautifully embroidered in French and brush kid, with Wurtemberg,
French, and other styles of heels, straight grain, double soles, walking and dress gaiters ;
for stitching on uppers very fine with the Gordon stay seam ; for correct proportions insuring
comfort to the wearer. An extremely fine exhibit.

174. C. H. Fargo & Co., Chicago, 111., U. S.

men's, WOMEN^S, AND BOYS' HEAVY BOOTS AND HIGH SHOES.

Report. — Good, substantial grain and wax leather peg boots and shoes ; fur-lined skins
tanned with hair on heavy peg boots and high shoes for winter wear — made of good prime
stock — extra full soles for Western sales ; also a child's shoe with tip or cap formed from
sole to protect uppers ; very serviceable.

175. Mayer & Stem, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

LADIES', misses', AND CHILDREN'S MEDIUM GRADE MACHINE-MADE SHOES AND LADIES'
AND INFANTS' HAND TURN SHOES.

Report, — Commended for good workmanship and finish, combined with good materials
and proportion in the shoes, resulting in a very good shoe of this class for wholesale trade.

493

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65 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

176. Henry Lch & Co., Allentown, Pa., U. S.

LADIESS MISSES', AND CHILDREN'S MACHINE-SEWED AND HEAVY MINING BOOTS AND

BROGANS.

Report. — A good exhibit of women's, misses' and children's; heavy and substantial,
mainly for country wear; prime stock and workmanship, and good, full-fitting, and strong
work* The heavy mining boot, brogan, and buckle shoe are very superior articles for pur-
poses intended. Prices of goods very reasonable.

177. Thomas Fearey & Sons, Albany, N. Y., U. S.

lJtDIEs\ MISSES' AND CHILDREN'S, BOYS' AND YOUTHS* MEDIUM GRADE MACHINE-SEWED

SHOES.

Re/prt. — An extensive exhibit of medium grade machine-sewed shoes for the masses ;
good serviceable work; material prime; proportions good; prices reported very low.

178. Banister & Tichenor, Newark, N. J., U. S.

HAND-STITCHED (TEAM) AND MACHINE-SEWED BOOTS, SHOES, AND GAITERS.

Report, — Commended, first, for the extent and variety of the exhibit, consisting of over
Iwo hundred pairs of boots, shoes, and slippers, of different sizes and styles.

Second, for the excellence and uniformity of the workmanship in the fitting and bottom-
ing of the work. Especial attention has been given to the proper proportions of their
^hoc?v, the forms of all lasts and all patterns used in the factory being originated and gotten
lip by themselves.

Wc would mention the following styles, among others, as possessing special merit :

City Troop's boots ; fisherman's high grain leather boot, leg cut in one piece ; morocco
leg tongue boot; jockey, riding, walking, and dress boots, with box and plain toes;
youths* tongue boots; bellows tongue walking shoe; double inseam cork sole shoe; Con-
gre;9^ gaiters, in variety of styles; strap shoes, with buckles and ties; and leather and cloth
emhraidered parlor slippers.

179. Burt & Mcars, New York, N. Y., U. S.

men's FINE HAND-STITCHED TEAM-WORK BOOTS, SHOES, AND GAITERS.
i^epitri. — A very fine exhibit of men's fine, high, riding, extension, double soles, Scotch
cdge^ morocco leg, calf tongue boots; very excellent workmanship; well cut and lasted;
pTiitic material, got up in artistic styles; also fine calf gaiters, Alexis ties, French kid strap
sh«cs, etc., for wholesale trade; also fancy stitching on boot legs and embroidered slips,
showing taste in design and skillful execution; workmanship and material of first quality,
and proportions excellent ; a very creditable exhibit.

180. Miller, McCullough, & Ober, Newark, N. J., U. S.

men's hand-stitched TEAM OR GANG WORK FOR WHOLESALE.
RfpffTt. — A small but very creditable display; calf dress, walking double sole, fisherman;
high and morocco leg tongue boots; also bellows tongue Scotch bottom shooting shoes,
double itiseam cork soles; dress and walking gaiters without seam in front. A variety of
styks and widths to suit different sections; box and plain toes; claim specialty for supply-
ing to measure retail customers; good, prime material and workmanship.

181. C. Benkert & Son, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

GENTS' FINE CUSTOM HAND-SEWED BOOTS, SHOES, AND GAITERS.

Re/'ort. — Commended for superiority of workmanship, as weU as excellence of material
used; for correct proportions, insuring comfort to the wearer; consisting of riding. City

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GROUP XIL 67

Troop style, boots for equestrians, walking boots, gaiters, etc., terraced, quilted, and double
inseam cork sole; the fitting on uppers excellent, principally by hand; a very superior ex-
hibit of work. »

182. Edwin A. Brooks, New York, N. Y., U. S.

men's and ladies* cork-sole boots, shoes, and gaiters.
Report, — A superior double inseam or box cork sole, by inserting two or more pieces of
cork, made light for summer and heavy for winter wear; superior in material, workman-
ship, fit, and durability; also a short quarter gentlemen's strap walking shoe, cut without
seam at sides, avoiding the pressure on the outside bone of the foot.

183. Ernest J. Thierry, New York, N. Y., U. S.

GENTS' GAITERS, TIIGH AND LOW SHOES, AND SLIPPERS, CUSTOMER WORK.

Report. — A very fine display of gaiters and shoes, of superior workmanship on upper*
and soles (black stitch) ; style and fit excellent.

184. Foster & Quiggle, Milford, Mass., U. S.

men's and boys' fine SCREW-FASTENED SHOES AND GAITERS.

Report, — An excellent exhibit of hand-screwed walking (bellows tongue) Alexis ties and
gaiters, very securely fastened, springy to foot; prime stock, good workmanship, and
excellent fitting goods.

185. Ara Cushman & Co., Auburn, Me.; U. S.

PEG, SCREW, AND MACHINE-SEWED BOOTS, SHOES, AND SLIPPERS.

Report. — An exhibit of men's grain calf and kid boots and shoes; grain calf, goat, and
carpet slippers; serge opera boots and canvas base-ball shoes; also women's, misses', and
children's polish boots, cloth and leather slips ; good prime work and material? : claiming
durability and service for least money for the masses.

186. Frederick Jones & Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

MEN'S AND boys' HEAVY PEGGED AND SCREWED BOOTS AND SHOES.

Report, — A good variety and assortment of substantial, well-finished work, prime stock;
particular attention to the grading of widths; at low prices for the masses.

187. E. & A. H. Batcheller & Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

men's, youths' and boys', and WOMENS' and misses' NAILED AND PEGGED BOOTS,

SHOES, AND BROGANS.

Report, — The workmanship is good and substantial, and the material prime, for this
class of work; well proportioned for fit and comfort; would mention specially their dIow
shoe and standard brogan, for superior and serviceable qualities. These goods are pro-
duced at moderate prices, to supply the masses.

188. Jenkins, Lane, & Sons, Boston, Mass, U. S.

men's PEGGED AND SCREWED BOOTS AND SHOES.

Report, — An extensive variety of calf split buff and grain leather boots and shoes, well
cut; workmanship smooth and well finished; prime good stock; same variety of fancy
patent leather work ; low prices for the masses.

495

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68 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

1S9. Allen Gates & Brother, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.
women's thin-soled gaiters and shoes sewed by cutlan's machine.
Rf^crt—A very fine exhibit of ladies' black and colored French kid button and lace
gaiters- also white and colored satin with French Pompadour heels, well seated and very
handsomely finished; uppers embroidered and finely stitched ; well cut and lasted ; also very
nice low- cut shoes and slippers. All the above are sewed on the Cutlan turn sewing
machine; workmanship and material excellent; fit and proportions good. A very creditable
rlisplay-

190. H. & A. Mahrenhol2, New York, N. Y., U. S.

BOOTS MADE FROM ALLIGATOR SKIN.
Re^rf, — Riding boots of alligator skin; workmanship solid and strong. The leather is
tough, mellow, and skillfully handled.

191. Thomas Emerson's Sons, Boston, Mass., U. S.

gents' RAND-MADE TEAM-WORK; MACHINE-SEWED AND HAND-MADE SHOES AND HER-

SOME GAITERS.

Report. — Good, substantial, nicely-finished work, with prime material ; stitching and fit-
ting of uppers very fine. The Hersome gaiter is a very handy and convenient style of gaiter,
fiistened by a strap and buckle around the ankle; good-proportioned work, with a variety
of styles of toes, box and plain.

192. Isaac Prouty & Co., Spencer, Mass., U. S.

men's, youths', AND BOYS' HEAVY PEG WORK.

Rtptfrt^ — Prime stock; good substantial workmanship; well cut, and excellent fitting;
also heavy nailed work for miners' use.

193. Fogg, Houghton, & Coolidge, Boston, Mass., U. S.

MEN^S, boys', and YOUTHS' NAILED, PEGGED, AND MACHINE-SEWED BOOTS AND SHOES.

R fpot-t,— T\i\% exhibit shows good smooth work, well cut and made of prime stock. It
etnbrnces a great variety of styles and qualities, to meet the wants of the general trade, at
low prices.

194. R. W. Emerson & Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

ladies', MISSES', AND CHILDREN'S PEGGED BOOTS AND SHOES.

Report. — A very good exhibit of fine pegged boots and shoes, for women, misses, and
children, made for home and Mexican markets. A variety of styles of fancy uppers, dis-
playing considerable taste in design, suited to special market; workmanship and stock good.

195. Krippendorf ft Hart, Cincinnati, Ohio, U. S.

WOMEN'S, MISSES', AND CHILDREN'S MACHINE-SEWED WORK.

Jf^ffTf.— Commended for good workmanship, material, proportions, and style; suitable
for wholesale trade.

196. Stribley & Co., Cincinnati, Ohio, U. S.

women's, misses', and children's medium grade MACHINE-SEWED SHOES.

Report. — The work is well and substantially made, of prime materials, and the style and
proportions are good; suitable for wholesale trade.

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GROUP XII.

197. Ordway & Clark, Haverhill, Mass., U. S.
women's shoes.
Report, — Hand and machine sewed shoes, medium grade, and kid and satin hand-
sewed low shoes and slippers. The materials are prime, and the general workmanship,
both in the fitting and finishing, is very good. The styles are tasty and proportions good.

198. M. D. Wells & Co., Chicago, 111., U. S.
men's, women's, and children's heavy peg and screw boots.
Report. — A very excellent exhibit of heavy peg and screw work, consisting of Montana
miners' top soles, lumbermen's and drovers* kip boots, English walking shoes, miners'
slug-nailed shoes, kip dirt-exduders, etc. ; good prime material and workmanship for West-
em market.

199. E. F. Bancroft & Co., Lsmn, Mass., U. S.

SHOES AND SLIPPERS.

Report, — Women's and misses' shoes and slippers, and men's fancy slippers, medium
grade. The style, proportion, and fit are very good, and the workmanship on soles and
uppers excellent. Women's low shoes and slippers and men's slippers are deserving of
mention for taste and proportions, at moderate prices.

200. W. F. Breed, Dole, & Co., L3mn, Mass., U. S

women's SHOES.

Report, — Machine-sewed shoes, kid, goat, and serge gaiters, shoes, and slippers. Com-
mended for fair workmanship, good material, style, and finish peculiar to Lynn.

201. Geo. C. How, Haverhill, Mass., U. S.

ladies' HAND-SEWED SUPPERS AND LOW SHOES.
Report, — A fine assortment of low shoes and slippers in black and fancy-colored kid and
satin ; handsomely-stitched and tasty uppers,'and fair workmanship. Full shoe for whole-
saling ; style peculiar to Haverhill.

202. Moses How, Haverhill, Mass., U. S.

GAITERS AND SLIPPERS.
Report, — Ladies' and misses' hand and machine sewed gaiters and slippers, in black
and fancy-colored morocco, kid, and satin. Commended for good variety and fair work-
manship ; style peculiar to Haverhill.

203. Lilly, Young, Pratt, & Brackett, Boston, Mass., U. S.

MEN'S, BOYS', AND YOUTHS' HAND-STITCHED TEAM BOOTS AND SHOES; MEN'S, BOYS*,
AND youths' machine-sewed AND SCREWED BOOTS AND SHOES.

Report, — The exhibit comprises a very extensive assortment of a great variety of styles
to suit the various markets. The exhibitors claim it to be a fair sample of their regular
production. The workmanship, material, and proportions are good. The goods are 8ul>
staniial and serviceable, and suited to the wants of the wholesale trade.
V> 497

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204. Kelley & Moore, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

LAUIEH' nNE MACHINE-SEWED GAITERS AND HAND-SEWED SLIPPERS.
J^e^ti. — Commended for superiority in machine-sewed work in fit, workmanship, and
mntefkl, fmi!>h on edge, sole, and heel, together with general finish. A fine exhibit of
whUc And black &atin button, blue satin side-lace gaiters, imitation cork soles, walking and
dress shoes \ also French kid sandals, Creole slippers, uppers very handsomely stitched and
beaded. A very creditable exhibit and excellent-fitting shoes.

205. J. H. Richelderfer, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

fiENTS', ladies', AND CHILDREN'S OVER-GAITERS AND HUNTING AND RIDING LEGGINGS.

R^f&ri. — A gre:it variety of gents*, ladies', and children's over-gaiters in leather, cloth,
velveteen, and satin, in colors; patent springs and buttons; also enameled leather hunting
and riding leggings. Commended for superiority of cut and proportions, and for style,
tiute, ^id workmanship.

206. Adler & Clement, Baltimore, Md., U. S.

LADIES^, MISSES', AND CHILDREN'S MEDIUM GRADE MACHINE-SEWED SHOES.
Rep<?ri, — Commended for superior workmanship in the fitting and finish, for the proper
proportions of the shoes, and for the good quality of material used.

207. Connolly ft Power, Boston, Mass., U. S.

MAND SEWED AND STITCHED BOOTS, SHOES, AND GAITERS.
RepfrL — Commended for superiority in style, for correct proportions, insuring comfort to
the wearer, and for superiority of workmanship, as well as for excellence of material used.
We would especially mention their double inseam or box cork sole boots, patent leather
work, etc,

208. West Brothers, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

LADIES't MISSES', CHILDREN'S, AND INFANTS' MACHINE-SEWED SHOES.

Rtp&rL — Good, substantial work and material. Full line for wholesale trade.

209. Groodrich & Porter, Haverhill, Mass., U. S.

LADIES* MACHINE AND HAND SEWED BOOTS AND SHOES.

RrfifjfL — Good, prime material and fair workmanship for jobbing trade.

210. J. H. A G. M. Walker, Worcester, Mass., U. S.
men's, boys', and youths' heavy peg boots.
Rf/t&rt.'^Aii ejthibit of wax upper and kip heavy peg boots for men, boys, and youlhs;
pdme stock and good workmanship.

211. Nelson M. Johnson, St. Louis, Mo., U. S.

gents' custom-made boots and gaiters.
Rep^ri, — A fair exhibit of custom work, consisting of enameled leg, calf and alligator
vamp riding boots , patent leather and enameled tongue boots, terraced bottom long gaiters,
very elaborately embroidered slippers, very good material and substantial work; fitting on
Ijoot'legs done by hand, and very nice.

498

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212. Barrows & Boyd, New York, N. Y., U. S.

LADIES* MCKAY MACHINE-SEWED GAITERS.

Report. — A very elaborate and superior exhibit of machine-sewed shoes, with Wurtem-
berg and Louis XIV. heels, consisting of pebble goat button extension edge, box toe, cork
soles, handsomely seated ; oil goat button double sole extension edge; glove kid, patent
leather vamps, side lace, double soles, light bead-edge shank, sixty-four lifts on heel, nicely
jointed and seated; French kid, button, very light sole, Louis XIV. heel, handsomely
finished ; pink and blue kid button, rand cork soles, Louis XIV. heel ; a seamless New-
port button, exceedingly light ; white, amber, red, green, and brown satin button gaiters,
' embroidered, and very elaborate stitching on uppers and workmanship on soles ; amber
satin, lavender, and pink kid high shoes, very superior in workmanship, material, and style.
Made on a Paize last to show off workmanship and style, but not to fit the foot.

213. Jacob Zaun & Son, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

HAND-MADE BOOTS AND SHOES FOR CUSTOM TRADE.

Report. — ^The exhibit evinces skill and taste in cutting and fitting, the stock used is ex-
cellent, and the workmanship throughout is good. The line of work is suited for first-class
custom trade. We would specially mention their Nnj>oleon City Troop and Crown Prince
wrinkled-ankle riding boot for their correctness of proportion and superiority of workman-
ship.

214. A. R. De Haven & Son, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

LADIES* HAND-MADE CUSTOM-WORK GAITERS.

Report. — A small but very fine display of hand-made work, excellent workmanship and
material, good fitting and style ; consists of cloth top, patent leather, foxed, terraced, and
plain Scotch bottom, kid, double inseam cork soles, cut in one piece; white kid and satin
dress shoes, with pump sole and fancy heels ; children's kid and morocco dress and walk-
ing shoes.

215. Stephen Oliver, Lynn, Mass., U. S.

LADIES* FINE HAND-SEWED GAITERS, LOW SHOES, ETC., AND GENTS* FINE SLIPPERS.

Report. — Good, prime material and workmanship, tasty in style, and well-proportioned
wo'-k.

216. L. Falley & Co., Lafayette, Ind., U. S.

men's, WOMEN'S, AND CHILDREN'S HEAVY PEG WORK.

Report. — An exhibit of prime, heavy men's, boys*, and youths* peg boots and high shoes,
very strong, substantial work, and good, prime materials, suitable for Western trade.

217. S. D. Sollers & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

children's AND INFANTS* BOOTS AND SHOES, HAND-SEWED, MCKAY AND GOODYEAR

MACHINE-SEWED.

Report. — A very extensive and elaborate exhibit of children*s and infants* shoes of every
conceivable pattern and style ; fancy and embroidered uppers, with extra stitching ; ma-
terial and workmanship good ; fit and style good.

499

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218. Bay State Shoe & Leather Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

MEN'ii^ BOYS*, YOUTHS', WOMEN'S, MISSES', AND CHILDREN'S BOOTS AND SHOES, SEWED,

PEGGED, AND SCREWED.

Report. — An exhibit of over two hundred and fifty pairs of various styles of heavy and
primti, good, serviceable work, specially adapted to the wants of the working classes, at
ejdrt^mc^ly low prices. Especial notice is called to the heavy and prime outsole on work.

219. Kenney & McPartland, New York, N. Y., U. S.

LADIES^ FINE MACHINE-MADE FRENCH KID AND STRAIGHT-GRAIN SHOES, IN VARIETY OF*

STYLES.

Rtpcrt. — Commended for good workmanship on uppers and bottoms, and the use of the
best materials, the style and proportions of the shoes being good.

220. Laird, Schober, & Mitchell, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

children's and infants' MACHINE AND HAND SEWED SHOES.

Report. — A very handsome exhibit of children's and infants' gaiters, boots, and ties, in a
variety of styles. Pompadour heels, French edge, bead edge, low, broad, and spring heels.
Cnminended for excellent workmanship and material, good-fitting proportions and finish,
uppers handsomely stitched ; children's blue and silver French kid, side lace and button,
operii toes, Pompadour heels; infants' blue, cherry, and black satin button; infants' white,
French, and matt kid button; infants' gold and blue French kid and buckle ties; full ex-
teriisioti soles, Joyce protection toes, and cork soles. Deserving of special notice.

221. Gray Brothers, Syracuse, N. Y., U. S.

LADIES' FINE HAND-MADE WELT WORK SHOES, GAITERS, ETC.

Report. — Commended for superiority in workmanship in hand-made welt work ; finish
of bed, soles, and edge; pin-point work on soles and top-piece very fine; fineness of stitch
on V elt and cork sole work ; the lasting of upper and style of last ; heels very high set
under foot, so as to stand easily and support weight of body ; uppers very finely stitched,
with beaded edges; fit and proportions good. A very superior exhibit.

222. Waldo M. Claflin, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

MRN*S AND BOYS' HAND-SCREWED (OR ESTERBROOK SCREW) BOOTS, GAITERS, AND HIGH

SHOES.

Report. — A small but very good display of men's and boys' gaiters ^nd high shoes, made
wi(h Esterbrook & Wires' screw. A very springy, pliant, and durable shoe; also heavy
ijoulilc soles, impervious to water, at prices within the reach of the masses. Workmanship,
fit, :ind proportions good; material prime.

223. M. B. & I. Canfield, Newark, N. J., U. S.

men's HAND-STITCHED TEAM WORK.

Rrp&rt. — An excellent display, consisting of men's double inseam cork soles, morocco
leg, tongue, patent leather boots, etc., well cut and nicely lasted; Alexis ties (tongues in
one ynece). Congress gaiters, French kid strap shoes. A great variety of styles and widths
to suit different sections, with box and plain toes. Commended for excellent material and
trorkmanship, good proportions, and durability.

500

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GROUP XII, 73

224. John Lobb, London, England.
gkntlembn's and ladies' superior hand-made custom boots and shoes.
Report, — ^A very superior exhibit of workmanship, material, style, and proportions, con-
sisting of gentlemen's dress, walking, shooting, fishing, hunting, and riding boots, with
patent calf button gaiters, calf and grain high and strap shoes ; extra stitching and work-
manship very elaborate; ladies' gaiters and slippers very fine; the workmanship cannot be
surpassed in any country. A portion not fresh work.

225. Wm. Allen Roe, Leicester, England*

MCKAY machine-sewed MEN'S BOOTS, HIGH AND LOW SHOES.

Report. — A very excellent exhibit of machine-sewed work, with double rows of sewing,
and very substantial, material prime, consisting of extra strong shooting boots, wide welts,
two rows of sewing, enamel cow hide, imitation cork sole, fair stitch on top sole ; glove
kid low shoe, imitation cork sole; jockey boots, and patent riding, dress, and walking boots ;
ladies' high leg boots ; army boots, as worn by the British army ; double row of sewing.

226. John Rosier, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

FINE HAND-MADE BOOTS AND SHOES FOR CUSTOM TRADE.

Report. — This exhibit consists of gentlemen's fine calf and patent leather boots and
gaiters, and ladies' fine shoes, and is notable for skillful workmanship, prime material, ex-
cellent taste and styles, and correct proportions.

227. David Ramsey, Cobourg, Ontario, Canada.

gentlemen's HAND CUSTOM-MADE BOOTS AND SHOES.
Report. — A small but very handsome exhibit of patent, calf, button, and Congress gaiters,
high lace, bellows tongue, double inseam cork sole shoe, calf button gaiters. Very supe-
rior workmanship and material, with excellent taste and fitting proportions.

228. Nicholas Huebner, St. Petersburg, Russia.

BOOTS AND shoes; CALF AND HORSE-HIDE BOOTS AND GAITER FRONTS; HIGH RIDING
AND fishermen's BOOTS; GALOSHES FOR OVERSHOES, LIGHT BOOTS AND GAITERS.

Report. — Workmanship good ; style and proportions suitable only for their own market ;
also an exhibit of calf-skin (fair) and horse-hide boot and gaiter fronts and backs.
A very excellent tanned leather, with very fine flesh and l)eautiful grain.

229. Basil Bogdanof, St. Petersburg, Russia.

BOOTS AND SHOES, SLIPPERS. CAPS, AND CUSHIONS FOR WHOLESALE TRADE.

Report. — This is a very extensive and varied exhibit, comprising long hunting and riding
boots, walking boots and shoes, ladies' shoes and slippers, and stage boots, shoes, and slip-
pers.

The workmanship is excellent, and the exhibit is especially noteworthy for taste and skill
in the combination of fine materials and for ornamentation in very fine gold embroidery.

230. Basil Fominsky, Kongoor, Perm, Russia.

HUNTING, RIDING, AND MINING BOOTS.

Report. — ^The workmanship is solid, substantial, and honest, and the materials prime.
The product is first-class for this line of goods, and is especially adapted to the wants of
their home trade.

501

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^4 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

231. Theodore Tzelbeief, St. Petersburg, Russim.
men's and women's boots, shoes, and suppers for wholesale trade.
Rtp^ri. — This is an extensive and varied exhibit, comprising men's walking boots, shoes,
imtl gaiters, women's shoes and slippers, and stage and fancy shoes. The workmanship is
Ijotnl, and the styles varied. Adapted to the wants of their home trade.

232. Peter Laude, St. Petersburg, Russia.
gents* fine boots.
Rt^ri. — A small exhibit of fair calf russet fine stitched boots. Very fair workmanship,
cXfciUcnt material ; proportions and style suitable to Russian nuurkets.

233. General Intendency of War, Russia.

ARMY BOOTS, AS ISSUED TO INFANTRY TROOPS.
Rtpiiri. — This is a very excellently made and well-proportioned boot, which is made by
machinery in the government workshops. It is made of a superior quality of russet Russia
leather, cut full and high. The side seams are closed flat, with a double row of waxed
&l itching^ the counters being well secured with an extra row of stitching. The soles arc
put on with a hand pegging machine, with a row of hand-stitching in the shanks as a
iecurity against ripping. In every way an excellent, substantial, and durable boot for the
aimyp

234. Imperial Maritime Customs, China.

SHOES.

Repi^rt. — The exhibit consists of a complete collection of the peculiar shoes of the
ctMintryi deposited by the Imperial maritime customs of Shanghai, Amoy, Canton, Chefoo,
Mincliuang, and Chinkiang, and is interesting and instructive, as illustrating the tastes
and cu.%toms of the people in this respect in the different parts of the empire.

235. Henri Herth, Paris, France.

LADIES* AND GENTLEMEN'S FINE CUSTOM-MADE BOOTS, SHOES, AND GAITERS.

RtN*rt, — Fine exhibit of gentlemen's wear; officer's grain leather boot, reaching to
|t>wer part of thigh, and fastened under the knee by strap and buckle ; enameled leather
ri'liog boot, with spurs; riding calf boot, jockey style; patent leather long boot, morocco
leo* 'J ^^^ very light soles, of superior workmanship ; plain calf walking dress boots ; also those
httvlti^ double and cork soles for winter; button gaiters, with drab cloth button, are made
(if *jne entire piece of leather, upon which the stitches can be seen, showing very fine
wurknmnship. A pair of black silk-stocking gaiter boots, patent leather foxing, very
tBu^tcful i also a few pair of ladies' button walking gaiters. A very, creditable exhibit.

236. L. Huard, Paris, France.

gentlemen's and ladies' fine hand-made shoes for CUSTOM TRADE.

^rpfiff. — Commended for great taste in combination of fine materials, and in omamen-
^iirlriti, HI? well as for skillful workmanship, combined with proper proportions to fit the foot.

The exhibit comprises a variety of styles and fine materials, such as patent leather, black
kid J and fancy colored kid and satin, especially suited to Paris fine trade.

502

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GROUP XII. 75

237. Louis S. M61i^s, Paris, Prance.
gentlemen's and ladies* hand-made boots, shoes, and gaiters, wholesale for

south american and french markets.
Report, — ^A general variety of styles of men's riding, walking, and dress boots and
gaiters ; also women's riding and tongue patent leather boots, and fancy gaiters and slip-
pers. Especially noteworthy for taste, style, and good proportions; material and workman-
ship good.

238. Auguste Chapsal, Aurillac, France.

men's boots AND SHOES, HAND-MADE, NAILED, ETC.

Report. — Russia leather boots and shoes for Russian market ; riding and fishing boots,
hand-sewed and nailed. Conmiended as solid, substantial, and durable.

239. Jeandron Ferry, Paris, France.

ladies' hand-made shoes and slippers FOR SPECIAL PARIS TRADE.

Report. — This exhibit comprises an assortment of various patterns, and fancy styles of
shoes, made for a special Paris trade; such as stage shoes and slippers, ball and party shoes
and slippers, and ladies' long riding boots. It evinces skill and taste, as also a very good
degree of skilled workmanship in cutting, fitting, and bottoming.

240. F. Pinet, Paris, France.

LADIES' AND MISSES' HAND-MADE SHOES AND SLIPPERS FOR WHOLESALE TRADE IN
FRANCE, AND FOR EXPORTATION.

Report. — Commended for the extent, variety, and excellence of the exhibit, which is
remarkable for the taste and skill displayed in the formation of the shoes, as well as in the
ornamentation by embroidery and painting in oil, and by trimming, both with lace and
flowers. The establishment embraces all grades, from the plain substantial kid shoe to
the finest satin work.

241. Grand Ducal Luxembourg Shoe Manufactory, Luxembourg, Grand Duchy

of Luxembourg.

men's hand-sewed and screwed high SHOES, ARMY BROGANS, SCREWED AND HEAVY
MINERS' SHOES, HOB-NAILED AND VERY SUBSTANTIAL; HAND-STITCHED GAITERS.

Report. — ^The heavy work is of good substantial workmanship and materials. A few
pair of ladies' hand-stitched gaiters are substantially made.

242. G. Vandenbos-Poleman, Ghent, Belgium.

GENTLEMEN'S AND LADIES* HAND-MADE BOOTS, SHOES, AND GAITERS.

Report. — A very extensive exhibit of men's Russia leather riding and walking boots and
shoes; fine calf-skin gaiters and shoes; also ladies' French kid button gaiters with cork
soles; very excellent workmanship and material, and good proportions.

243. Alph. Watrigant, Brussels, Belgium.

men's and ladies' custom-made SHOES AND GAITERS.

Report. — Ladies' fine gaiters and slippers, which are especially noteworthy for taste and
workmanship and good style; proportions excellent; gentlemen's gaiters and patent leather
shoes are of excellent material, workmanship, and style.

503

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^ REPORTS OX AWARDS,

244. P. Astengo & Co., Caraccas, Venezuela.

gentlemen's boots and shoes, and ladies' gaiters.
Rfpori. — A very extensive exhibit, consisting of gents' patent leather tongue and calf
boots md shoes; Russia leather walking and hunting shoes; fine hand-made stitched and
copper nail work; fine calf and cloth embroidered slippers; boys' and youths' boots and
shots; also ladies' fine kid, serge, and satin gaiters and fancy shoes; very superior work-
manship ti.iid material; proportion and style excellent.

245. Esteban Ribox & Brothers, Granada, Spain.
CAifr shoes, woven hemp sole, for army and mountaineer purposes.
Jte^ffrt. — An extensive exhibit of woven uppers and hemp soled shoes, intended for the
army and pea^^nt use in mountainous and hot sandy countries; very cheap, serviceable,
&nd coal,

246. Francisco Chia y Ganga, Seville, Sptdn.
ladies' fine kid and satin gaiters and slippers.
Mrp&fL — A very handsome exhibit of fine ladies' custom fancy gaiters and slippers,
superior in workmanship and material, with style to suit the Andalusian ladies.

247. Epifanio Ralero, Segovia, Spain.
ladies' fancy leather slippers.
Reptffi.-^h. variety of figures cut with a very rude instrument, displaying great skill and
ingenuity in ornamentation.

248. Antonio Diaz, Madrid, Spain.
gentlemen's and ladies' fine gaiters and slippers.
Report* — A very fine exhibit of ladies' fine satin and kid gaiters and slippers; workman-
ship and material very superior; also some very fine gentlemen's gaiters and walking shoes.

249. Jos6 Nogueira Soares, Penafiel, Portugal.
men's and women's wood-soled gaiters.
R§p&rL — A very nice article of men's and women's boots and gaiters with leather sole
stitched cin, and wood sole attached with joints for wet weather; suitable for home trade.

250. Felipe Jos6 Serra, Lisbon, Portugal.
gents' and ladies' boots, shoes, and slippers.
RiforL — A good exhibit of gentlemen's gaiters and shoes, light and heavy work; also
ladies' and children's gaiters and slippers ; very excellent workmanship and material ; style
and proportions suitable to their own country.

251. Rodrigo Alves Martins Souto, Oporto, Portugal.
ladies' and gentlemen's hand-sewed gaiters and shoes.
Rfft^, — A fair assortment of custom-made gentlemen's and ladies' gaiters and shoes;
^so bulton [railers, etc. Commended for excellent workmanship and good material; pro-
port Jons and style suitable for home trade.

5<H

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252. Francisco Pinto Sequeira, Oporto, Portugal.

ladies' and gentlemen's custom-made boots.
Report. — A small but good exhibit of gentlemen's and ladies' gaiters and shoes; work-
manship and material good; proportions and style suitable to their own country.

253. Gennano de Almeida, Lisbon, Portugal.
gentlemen's and ladies* boots and shoes.
Report. — A small exhibit of gentlemen's calf and kid gaiters; a few pairs of ladies* kid
and satin gaiters; workmanship and material good; style and proportions suitable to their
own country.

254. Oomes & Son, Lisbon, Portugal.

GENTS*, boys', and LADIES' HAND-MADE BOOTS AND SHOES.

Report. — A small exhibit of gents' hand-stitched Congress patent leather, calf, kid, and
cloth gaiters; ladies' button French kid, patent leather, grain, goat, pump, and cork sole
gaiters; fine material and good workmanship; style suitable to Portugal.

255. C. F. Cathiard, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

MACHINE-MADE BOOTS AND SHOES.

Report. — This is quite an extensive exhibit, made on French screw machine, embracing
a variety of styles and qualities of work suited to South American market, and is notable
for solidity and cheapness, and the amount of skill displayed in this industry, which is
comparatively new in Brazil.

256. H. Viguier, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

men's and boys' MACHINE-SEWED GAITERS.

Report. — A very fine exhibit of machine-sewed gaiters and shoes, of very excellent
workmanship and material; the style and proportions very handsome.

257. Argentine Republic.

shoes and LEATHER, HIDES AND SKINS.

Report. — This is a collective exhibit made by the Government through the Provincial
G)mmissions of the provinces represented, as follows : boots from the province of Tucu-
man; boots, etc., from province of Cordova; boots from the province of Salta; leather from
province of Rioja; leather from the province of Catamarca; leather from province of Tu-
cuman; leather from province of Entre Rios; leather from province of Salta; leather from
province of Jujui; also a collection of dry, salted, and flint-cured cow and steer hides,
goat and sheep skins, and skins of the different animals of the country. The exhibit is
intended to illustrate the resources of the country in hides and skins for export or home
consumption ; also the different animals of the country, and the condition and progress of
the leather and shoe industry.

258. I. Iramon, Santa F6, Argentine Republic.

RIDING boots.

Report. — Tap sole riding boots, enameled leather and calf vamps; well cut, good style,
proportions, and work.

505

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259. Francis Barelli & Son, Santa F6, Argentine Republic.

RIDING BOOTS.

Rip&rK — Commended for correct proportion, good style, and good work.

260. Lorenzo Buasso, Buenos Ayres, Argentine Republic.
gentlemen's fine sewed boots and shoes.
^^/a//,— Taste in styles and proportions, and very good workmanship; a small exhibit;
well cut J and very well made and finished.

261. Luigi de Notaris, Naples, Italy.

GENTLEMEN*S AND LADIES* FINE HAND-MADE BOOTS AND SHOES; FINE CUSTOM-MAD«
RIDING BOOTS, BUTTON GAITERS, AND SHOES.

R^psri. — Workmanship and material. excellent; well cut and made; style and propor-
tions suitable for Italian market.

262. Antonio Moiraghi, Turin, Italy.

gentlemen's HAND-MADE CUSTOM BOOTS AND SHOES.

Rep&rt. — Commended for excellent workmanship and material; of good proportions ana
style for home market.

263. Melchiorre Vinci, Palermo, Italy.

GENTLEMEN'S HAND-SEWED BOOTS AND SHOES,
^^/er/.— Very superior workmanship and material, consisting of riding and walkmg
boots and shoes ; also a very superior pair of leather breeches and boots, cut in one piece,
v^ry handsomely fitted ; the work done in an artistic manner, and, as a whole, a very inge-
DJous piece of work.

264. I. Skoraczewski, Posen, Germany.
men's and boys' heavy sewed grain boots.

R^^rt^The exhibit consists of a pair of high military boots with spurs, fur lined, six
thickne^e^ of leather in sole; one pair hunting boots, one pair lace boots without seam,
ontf pair j^^^^iloshes without seam, one pair boys' boots cut without seam. This exhibit is
comtii ended for the skill and novelty of cutting boot leg and shoe without a seam, and as
good, solids substantial work.

265. S. Wolf, Mentz, Germany.
gentlemen's and ladies' hand-made fine boots, shoes, and gaiters.
R^p&ri. — Commended for very excellent workmanship and material, in style and pro-
portions to suit the Australian and German market, at very reasonable prices ; consisting
of grain Ic.ither hunting shoes, with seam at side only; patent leather and calf gaiters,
slippers^ and Oxford ties; ladies' kid and serge gaiters. Superior exhibit of hand-made
work.

266. Adolph B. Lbwenstein, Vienna, Austria.

TJIDIES' hand-made SHOES AND SLIPPERS FOR EXPORTATION.
Rf^&rf.—A very extensive and handsome exhibit of low shoes and slippers, with thin
soles, made of goat, sheep, and stuff, turn-rounds, trimmings elaborate, with bows; some
sarapics of gentlemen's toilet slippers and wearing shoes of good proportions. Workman-
ship fair. Supplied for exportation at very low prices.

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267. H. S. Naes, Christiania, Norway.
men's and women's hand-made boots and shoes.
Report, — They are substantially made of good materials; in styles and proportions
suited to their own market.

268. P. N. Nordahl, Christiansand, Norway.
men's and women's hand-made boots and shoes.
Report. — The materials and workmanship are good, and the exhibit comprises a variety
in men's long and riding boots, of styles suitable for home market.

269. O. Tomberg, Goteberg, Sweden.

gentlemen's boots, shoes, and gaiters.
Report, — A very fine exhibit of custom-made work, consisting of patent leather tongue
boots with morocco legs, patent leather strap shoes, double inseam cork sole gaiter, with
enameled facing, of very superior workmanship and materials. Style and proportions
excellent.

270. C. B. Sranberg, Jonkoping, Sweden.
men's and women's boots and shoes for wholesale.
Report, — An exhibit of hand-made men's riding, jockey, and light walking boots, ter-
raced bottom, with double inseam cork soles, and plain gaiters ; also ladies' satin and
French kid gaiters of good, fair workmanship and materials. Style and proportions suitable
to Sweden.

271. J086 Maria AstudiUo, Santiago, Chili.
ladies' and gentlemen's fine hand-made boots and gaiters.
Report. — A small exhibit of gentlemen's enameled leather riding boots, patent leather
gaiters, ladies' satin and patent leather gaiters, of excellent workmanship and material;
the proportions and style suitable for Chili.

272. J086 Sajrs, Barcelona, Spain.
gentlemen's custom boots and shoes, hunting and riding boots, DoimLE inseam,
cork soles, and overshoes.
Report. — The workmanship and materials are good and substantial ; the proportions and
style are suitable for Spanish market

273. Gordon McKay, Boston, Mass., U. S.

MCKAY TACKING MACHINE, FOR TACKING THE OUTSOLE TO THE LASTED SHOE TO HOLD
IT WHILE BEING SEWED, NAILED, OR PEGGED.

Report. — This machine drives a light-headed tack with a clinching point. The point is
clinched down close in the leather, leaving the insole smooth and free from anything to
hurt the foot. The headed nail, thus clinched, holds the sole firmly to its place, and re-
quires a less number to hold it, and thus requires less time in the operation.

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274. McKay Sewing-Machine Association, Boston, Mass., U. S.

WIRE EIVETING MACHINE FOR UNITING THE SOLES TO THE UPPERS OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

Rupert, — This machine uses an oval corrugated wire, which it cuts with a level clinching
jJoiiQt, automatically grading the length of the wire cut to the length required. The ma-
chi^ie works rapidly, clinches the nail on the insole, doing very solid, substantial work. Is
specially adapted to heavy work.

275. David Knox, Lsmn, Mass., U. S.

A GLAXING AND PEBBLING MACHINE FOR MOROCCO AND SHEEP-SKINS; A SOLE-CUTTING

MACHINE.
Report. — The glazing machine, being made entirely of iron, is very solid and substantially
built; compact, occupying but little space; is adjustable in all its parts; runs lightly and
rapidly, with but slight stress on binding; makes a straight stroke, and does excellent work.
The sole-cutting machine is well and substantially built. It cuts all sizes of soles out of
all qualities of stock, cutting the stock dry, so that those grades not wanted for immediate
use can be laid away without damage. It is simple and efficient.

276. J. Q. Buzzell & Co., Lynn, Mass., U. S.

SAND-l'APERING MACHINE; HEEL-SCOURING MACHINE; MONOGRAM MACHINE; HEEL-
BftEASTING MACHINE; A FRICTION DEVICE FOR RUNNING SEWING MACHINES BY POWER.

RepGrt. — The sand-papering machine for finishing the bottoms of boots and shoes is
ctfcmiiiended for the superiority of the patent clamp roll, and the facility with which the
stind-iKiper can be attached to or detached from the same, and for the thoroughness with
which il carries off all dust made in running it. The device for running sewing machines
by power is the most simple, sensitive, and efficient we have seen. It avoids all friction
and end motion. The other machines are merely commended for their simplicity and
adapUlion for the uses for which they are intended.

277. Geo. W. Baker, Wilmington, Del., U. S.

A SEWING MACHINE FOR SEWING WET GOAT AND SHEEP SKINS PREPARATORY TO

TANNING.

Report. — Commended for the simplicity of its mechanism, and substantial construction.
All ^jsrts are worked by one shaft, without gears. It is positive in its motions, and not
liable \o get out of order. It runs lightly and very rapidly, and all parts subject to the
weiu- of the thread are so arranged as to be easily and cheaply replaced.

27S. The S. W. Jamison Boot and Shoe Crimping Machine Co., New York,

N. Y., U. S.

A MACHINE FOR CRIMPING BOOTS AND SHOES BY POWER.

Rfparf. — This is a very ingenious and well-built machine, doing its work in a very supe-
rior manner, at a great saving of time and labor, and working with equal facility on all
grades of stock, from fine morocco or French calf-skin to heavy split or wax upper.

279. Estabrook, Wires, & Co., Milford, Mass., U. S.

CLINCHING SCREW FOR FASTENING ON THE SOLES OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

Rep&rL — Commended — i. For its simplicity. Any shoemaker can apply it without the
aid of machinery.

z. For the solidity, durability, and elasticity of the work done with it. By the for-
tnatioa of the screw, the hole made in driving is smaller at the inside than at the outside

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of the sole; and this, with the thread into which the leather settles firmly, prevents the
screw from working through to hurt the foot.

The point of the screw, clinching on the inside, under the stroke of the hammer, draws
the different layers of leather firmly together, effectually preventing the entrance of sand
or water.

280. Tapley Heel-Bumishing Machine Association, Boston, Mass., U. S.

A MACHINE FOR BURNISHING THE HEELS OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

Report. — This machine is a combination of a reciprocating burnishing tool with a
mechanism for holding and grinding the boot or shoe against the action of such tool,
thereby burnishing or finishing the heel in a superior manner and with a great saving of
time and cost.

281. Union Edge Setter Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

A MACHINE FOR SETTING OR BURNISHING THE EDGES OF SHOES.

Report. — Commended for its simplicity, and the thorough permanent manner in which it
does its work, and the rapidity with which it does it, effecting a great saving of labor.

282. Hanan & Dewes, New York, N. Y., U. S.

CUTTERS OR DIES FOR CUTTING LEATHER, INDIA-RUBBER, PAPER, AND TEXTILE FABRICS,

BY HAND OR MACHINERY.
Report. — Commended for the superior skill displayed in forging and finishing dies of
very intricate and difficult designs. Would specially mention their patent detachable die-
handle, which is considered meritorious for its strength, economy, and convenience.

283. McKay Sewing- Machine Association, Boston, Mass., U. S.

A SEWING MACHINE FOR SEWING THE SOLES TO THE UPPERS OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

Report. — This machine is very ingeniously constructed, and sews the soles on boots or
shoes with one seam, doing its work very rapidly and in a very superior manner, and
working equally well on all classes of work, from the finest and lightest ladies' shoes to
women's and men's heavy calf and split leather boots and shoes. Commended for the
rapidity and excellence of its work, and the consequent reduction in the cost of the prod-
uct, and its adaptation to all classes of work.

284. Tayman Shoe Machine Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

A MACHINE FOR TRIMMING THE EDGES OF SOLES OF BOOTS AND SHOES; A MACHINE
FOR SETTING OR BURNISHING THE EDGES OF SOLES OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

Report. — The edge-trimming machine is ingenious yet simple in its mechanism, and
rapid and effective in operation. It can be operated by a boy or girl. While it effects a
great saving in the cost of the work, in quality it is quite equal, if not superior, to work
done by hand. The edge-setter is of similar general mechanism to the trimmer, and is
very rapid in operation.

285. George C. Walters, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

A MACHINE FOR SEWING WET GOAT AND SHEEP SKINS.

Report. — Commended for the simplicity of the mechanism and the substantial manner
in which it is built. It does its work rapidly and economically.

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286. Bronx Wool and Leather Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

LAMB AND SHEEP AND GOAT SKINS.

RtporL — Commended for the variety, evenness, and clearness of the colors in the dif-
ferent atylea of finish, and for excellence of manufacture in their lamb and sheep skins
for sJiucii and skivers for shoes and pocket books, and their goat-skins for books and up-
bcj]sri*ry, and bat wings and India sheep for pocket books.

287. J. Barton Smith & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

RASPS AND FILES FOR SHOKMAKERS* USE.

Report* — -This exhibit comprises a complete line of all sizes and styles of rasps and files
yst'tl [jy shoemakers, and is notable for the regularity, evenness, and excellence in the
cuUiiig, and adaptation to all the wants of the trade.

2Sg. Cutlan Shoe-Sewing Machine Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

A MACHINE FOR SEWING A TURNED SHOE.

Report. — This machine sews a good firm seam, and imbeds the chain stitch in the channel
of lUe sok, which we think is a great advantage, as the chain stitch comes under the
fool ^ covered by channel) instead of against the upper. We had light and medium edges
sewed and finished up. We consider it an excellent machine for turn shoes.

289. W. E. Plummer, Boston, Mass., U. S.

ROTARY TAN PRESS.

Ripsri, — Commended as a skillful invention, useful in the preparation of tan for fuel.

290. Estabrook, Wires, & Co., Milford, Mass., U. S.

how's PATENT BOOT AND SHOE TREES.

Rfp&rt. — They are simple and effective. The mechanism being simple and positive,
they are not liable to get out of order. They stretch and fill all parts of the boot or shoe
I borough ly and simultaneously. Being mounted on a table with a swivel, all parts of the
l>oot or shrjc are brought convenient to the operator; and by the peculiarity of their con-
struction they can be easily and quickly inserted or detached from the boot or shoe without
defacing it, after the treeing is completed. They are adapted to all grades of work, coarse
or finCi

291. L. S. Graves, Rochester, N. Y., U. S.

1 JCN SEI'ARATE AND DISTINCT PIECES OF MACHINERY FOR SHOE MANUFACTURERS.

Rrppri. — No. I. Stripping machine for cutting sides of leather in strips; cuts the heaviest
Block dry. Simple, but a very useful machine.

No, 2. Splitting machine for splitting strips, with improved roll adjustment and friction
drive and brake, steel rolls. An excellent machine, being strong and simply constructed.

Nos. J and 4. Rolling machines 24 and 31 inches, with friction and sudden stop, which is
difficult lt> do when a balance-wheel is used, with a wide-hinged treadle, improved spring
rutining with but little noise. They are very good machines, strong and simple in their
construction.

Nos* 5 and 6. Foot and power sole cutting machines (rolling die cutter). They are very
itseful and excellent machines.

No, J. Beam sole cutting-machine, improved head adjustment, running noiselessly. We
bud neither material nor space to test the speed of the machine. We consider this a very

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valuable machine for extensive manufacturers, enabling them to cut the sole across the
stretch of hide and avoid loss in stripping from leather.

No. 8. Sole moulding machine, with improved double motion and top adjuster, solid
bottom casting, four uprights (instead of two). A simple and well-built machine.

No. 9. Screw heel press. It is simply made with planed surfaces, is strongly built,
powerful and useful.

No. 10. Sand-paper and buffing machine, with improved expanding roll, with elastic
cushion ; runs very smoothly and quietly, with strong frame swivel boxes or bearings, capped
blower, and steel shafU.

The above machines are built strong and substantial and in a workmanlike manner, and
are all taken from his stock. They are not gotten up for this Exhibition. In consequence
of space being limited, and want of material, we have not been able to make as thorough
a test of working powers of machines as they desired, but feel no hesitancy in pronouncing
it an excellent exhibit.

292. John K. Gittens, Brooklyn, N. Y., U. S.

CORK AND WOOL INSOLES.

Report. — Cork inner soles commended as a protection from dampness and a great com-
fort to those suffering from cold feet. They are well made, of the best cork, and are a
good article. Polar soles commended as being peculiarly adapted to making a warm, easy
shoe for invalids or aged persons for in-door use.

293. Wm. Dreisbach & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SHOE BOWS AND ROSETTES, FOR TRIMMING SHOES AND SLIPPERS.

Report. — The exhibit comprises a large variety of styles of bows of white, gold, silver,
bronze, and black kid, satins, etc., and evinces great skill and taste, both in the designs
and the combinations of materials, colors, and ornamentation.

294. Jenkins Brothers & Co., South Abington, Mass., U. S.

STEEL SHOE SHANKS.

Report. — Gimmended for their superiority of manufacture and temper, and for the
variety of sizes and styles suited for the different grades of work.

295. The Tubular Rivet Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

A TUBULAR RIVET, AND MACHINE FOR SETTING SAME.

Report. — By the formation of the rivet it punches its own way through the material, and,
being riveted by the machine without the use of a burr, it does its work very rapidly ;
forms a neat, strong fastening; and, as the machine can be operated by a boy or girl, it is
a very rapid and cheap mode of fastening for brogans, shoes, and leather work.

296. Henry J. Pratt, Abington, Mass., U. S.

PATENT LAST-BLOCK FASTENER.

Report. — G)mmended as an effectual device for fastening the last-block to the last while
the shoe is being made upon it, holding them firmly together, being readily fastened and
unfastened, and avoiding the danger of splitting the last -block by tacking.

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297. E. B. Stimpson, New York, N. Y., U. S.

SHOE BIACHINERY.

Mtpori. — This exhibit consists of punching machine, for ornamenting boots and shoes;
wrinkling and cording machine, for boots and shoes; leather-folding machine, for vamps,
biitton-fljesj eic*; leather-skiving machine, for fancy vamps of boots and shoes; scam-rub-
l>ing machine, with changeable form, for boots and shoes; double-acting arm and platform
sewing machine, fur shoe and pocket-book work ; four-action sewing machines, for shoe
work. Commended for ingenuity of construction and adaptation to the uses for which they
«rc inlendtid.

29S. Thos. R. Evans, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

BOOT AND SHOE TREES; ALSO STRETCHERS.

Ripsri.—^Th^ exhibit comprises a revolving indexical boot-tree, with stretchers for in-
step arjc! toes, very simple in construction and effectual in working, placing the boot in
bandy posilion for tlie workman to finish; also a shoe-tree on same principle, displaying
cansldemble ingenuity in construction.

299. The National Boot & Shoe Tip Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

COLORED RAW HIDE BOOT AND SHOE TIP.

Rfperi. — Ts an excellent protection for the toes of boots and shoes, and is especially
adapted to children's wear. The material is durable and flexible, and, being colored
through, will letaln its color and not detract materially from the appearance of the shoe.

300. J. E. Mitchell, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

RUB STONES, CLEARING STONES, AND SCOURING STONES.

Rffart^ — The ejthibit comprises a large and complete line of all the best grades of
foreign and domesitic nib and clearing stones and scouring stones, slates, and glass, for
hand and machine use, cut and finished by machinery, in a, very superior manner.

301, Elias P. Newton, Gloversville, N. Y., U. S.

GLOVE AND MITTEN CUTTING, AND DIE AND LEATHER CUTTING BLOCK.

Report — Commended for a very ingenious and skillfully made instrument, and well
adapted to its purpose, resulting in great economy of material.

J03. Swtun, Fuller, & Co., 'Lynn, Mass., U. S.

SHOE MACHINERY.

Ripori. — I St. A sole-moulding machine, for moulding the soles of shoes, rendenng
them solid and properly shaped to prepare for the last. A strong, well-built, useful machine.
2d. A beating-otit machine, for leveling the soles of shoes to the form of the last after they
are sewe^l or pegijed, enabling it to receive an even and uniform finish. Is a well-made
and vjilnable machine, 3d. Sand-papering or buffing machine, for soles of boots and
shoes. It is very simple in construction, runs rapidly and steadily, requiring but little
poiwer to drive it, and is very efficient in its operation.

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303. D. Whittemore, Boston, Mass., U. S.

SHOE MACHINERY.

Report, — 1st. The Thompson edge-trimming and edge-setting machines. These ma-
chines are very simple in construction, the chief merit being the rapidity and the conse-
quent economy of their working, but are specially adapted to coarse, heavy work.

2d. The Star Splitting Machine, of different sizes, adapted to splitting sole and upper
leather to any desired thickness. The most noticeable feature is the vibrating motion of
the upper roll, giving the leather a drawing motion on the splitting knife, cutting easily
and smoothly, working well on smooth, solid stock.

3d. Beam sole leather cutter, for dicing out soles from the whole side. This machine
is solidly and strongly built, and has a patent hollow pulley and clutch and brake for start-
ing and stopping the machine instantly at any point ; but, the machine not being put into
operation, we cannot speak of its special or comparative merits.

The different pegging machines, and the alligator and other wax thread and loop stitch
sewing machines, manufactured and exhibited by this exhibitor, not being shown in oper-
ation, we can only judge of them on their general reputation, which is good. They do
good, solid work.

304. McKay Lasting- Machine Association, Boston, Mass., U. S.

A MACHINE FOR LASTING BOOTS AND SHOES; A HAND-TACKING MACHINE FOR TACKING
THE UPPERS TO INSOLES OF SHOES.

Report, — Commended for simplicity and proper adaptation to the purposes for which they
are intended. The lasting machine, by drawing uniformly all parts of the upper, works
more uniformly satisfactorily than that done by hand, and, by the use of the hand-tacker in
connection with it, makes a great saving in time, and consequently in cost, especially in
grain leather, or other heavy grades of work.

305. The American Cable Screw Wire Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

STANDARD SCREW WIRE MACHINE FOR UNITING THE SOLES TO THE UPPERS OF BOOTS

AND SHOES.

Report. — A well-constructed and efficient machine for the purpose intended. By the
pressure obtained from the presser foot holding the inner and outer sole solidly together,
and the screw being screwed into the leather, the sole and upper are united very closely
and substantially and thus held firmly by the thread of the screw. It is specially adapted
for heavy work.

306. McKay & Bigelow Heeling- Machine Association, Boston, Mass., U. S.

A HEEL-COMPRESSING MACHINE; A HEEL ATTACHING AND TRIMMING MACHINE.
Report, — These two machines, which are to be used in conjunction, are ingeniously con-
structed, and admirably adapted to the uses for which they are intended. Their merits are
rapidity of work and consequent economy, and the superiority of the work done by them.
The first compresses the heel very solidly, so that it is not liable to crack open, and inserts
the nails, ready to be driven by the second, which at one motion drives all the nails, attach-
ing the heel solidly to the shoe, and at another motion trims or shapes the heel smoothly,
ready for burnishing.

307. The American Shoe-Tip Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

PROTECTION FOR THE TOES OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

Report. — ^This protection is especially designed for children's and ladies' fine shoes ; is
an effectual protection to the toe of the shoe, as the sole extends beyond and over the upper
slightly, and prevents its wearing through at that point, and does not detract in any degree
from the appearance of the finest work.

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308. Marcus Hanan, New York, N. Y., U. S.

IINC AND BRASS EDGED SHOE PATTERNS, PAPER SHOE PATTERNS, AND STAMPS FOR MARK-
ING FOR FANCY STITCHING.

Kiport, — Shoe patterns commended for durability and substantial construction, and for
proper pmportions and correct grading of sizes. Stamps commended for variety and taste
f>f designs.

309. Graves, Ball, & Co., Albany, N. Y., U. S.

SHOE LASTS AND INNER AND OUTER SOLE PATTERNS.

Report, — Commended for accuracy of grading in sole patterns, and uniformity in grade,
prosper pro|iortiDn, and style in lasts; also for superior workmanship in finishing and fitting
the iron bottoms to the lasts.

3to. Hautin Sewing Machine Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

A WAX THREAD LOCK STITCH SEWING MACHINE FOR HARNESS AND LEATHER WORK,
^^/tffr/.'— Commended for ingenuity and simplicity of mechanism, and for rapidity and
ejtceUence of work, making a lock stitch similar to hand-work, alike on both sides.

311. Wm. H. Horn & Brother, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SHOEMAKERS', TANNERS', AND CURRIERS' TOOLS.

R^p&ri.^\\. IS a very extensive and excellent exhibit, evincing superior workmanship in
the construction, tempering, grinding, and finishing. Commended for the direct adapta-
bjltty of the different tools to the various uses for which they are intended.

313. McLaughlin, Grover, & Loyd, New York, N. Y., and Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

DlfiS FOR LEATHER, PAPER, AND CLOTH, LEATHER SPLITTING, AND MACHINE KNIVES.

Rfp^L — A very superior exhibit of dies for shoe manufacturers, knives for book-
biudenv, ami planing machines; dies for envelopes, of very superior quality and workman-
ship, A very creditable exhibit.

313. James Wensley, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

children's FANCY AND PLAIN MOROCCO AND SERGE SHOE UPPERS.

^i^^?V-— Commended for excellence of button-hole working, done by an improvement
of his own, on the Union button-hole machine, on French kid, serge, and other light mat^»
riab, and disiplaying superior workmanship.

314. Wm. Butterfield & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

ANCHOR BUTTON FASTENER FOR ATTACHING BUTTONS TO SHOES.
Rffiorf. — Commended for the facilit>' with which it can be attached to the shoe ; for the
streni^Hh of the attachment, and the facility with which it can be taken off when it is de-
sirable to Tnove the button ; also for the fact that buttons so fastened on yield to the button-
hook, and are therefore not liable to hurt the foot in buttoning.

315. Simon S. Redifer, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

MEN*S AND WOMEN'S, MISSES' AND CHILDREN'S LASTS OR FORMS FOR SHOES.

Jlepcrt. — An excellent exhibit of shoe lasts, of superior shapes, grade, and finish ; wood
prime ; a!<;o ipuded patterns for soles, full set for lasts ; well-adjusted iron on bottom for
machine saew and nail work; very superior finish, and a creditable exhibit.

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316. Eugene Creed, New York, N. Y., U. S.
men's boot and shoe uppers.
Report,— K good exhibit of men's boot and shoe uppers ; well cut and finished ; excellent
material for custom work.

317. Dawley & Derby, New York, N. Y., U. S.

LASTS, BOOT TREES, CRIMPING BOARDS, AND STRETCHERS.

Report, — ^A fair exhibit of lasts, boot trees, turned and finished by machinery, good
seasoned wood, fair forms and shapes, low price.

318. John Targett, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

BOOT, SHOE, AND GAITER PATTERNS.

Report, — Commended for correctness in grading and proportions; special mention of
Oxford tie upper, cut without seam, crimped on last, evincing skill and ingenuity.

319. Israel Q. Sutherland, Lynn, Mass., U. S.

BOOT AND SHOE PATTERNS IN BRASS EDGE AND ZINC*

Report, — An exhibit of heavy paper with brass edge and zinc patterns ; very correct in
grade and workmanship.

320. J. B. Stoll & Co., Louisville, Ky., U. S.

SADDLE SKIRTING, OAK-TANNED.

Report, — Commended for high skill and workmanship in the manufacture and finish of
the leather.

321. Laurens E. de Warn, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

A PATENT SEAM FOR THE BACKS OF SHOES, KNOWN AS THE GORDIAN SEAM.

Report, — ^This seam being formed by sewing the seam and covering the same with a stay
piece, fastened in such a manner that the stitches are not exposed ; firm and effectually
stayed seam, which is durable, not being liable to rip from the wearing off of the stitches.

322. McNeely & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

TAMPICO MOROCCO, RED, BLUE, ROSE, PEARL, AND CUIR, FOR SHOES.

Report, — Commended for the delicacy, evenness, and clearness of the colors, and for
excellence of finish.

323. HamUton Web Co., Wickford, R. I., U. S.

BOOT, GAITER, AND STAY WEBS AND BINDINGS.

Report. — Conmiended for durability and strength, with excellence and smoothness of
' finish and evenness of edges. These goods, which are exhibited in great variety of styles
and widths, to suit the varied wants of the trade, evince taste and skill, and the use of the
most improved appliances in their manufacture.

324. Abram Hewling, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

PATENT ICE-CREEPER.

Report, — It is strong and substantially made, easily attached to the shoe, and, being
hinged, can be folded back out of the way when entering the house or when not in use.
An excellent appliance for the purpose.

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325. A. F. Stowe, Worcester, Mass., U. S.

SOLE LEATHER SPLITTING MACHINE, UPPER LEATHER SPLITTING MACHINE, MACHINE
FOR ROLLING LEATHER, WELT CUTTING MACHINE, STRAP CUTTING MACHINE.

Rtport. — ^The splitting machines are well and substantially built, and, by the application of
a third or feed roll, the bellies and wrinkled and flabby parts of a side can be passed through
and split without gouging or damaging, which peculiarity adapts these machines for working
the rough and poorer grades of leather. The rolling machine has the third roll, which
answers the same purpose in rolling as in splitting. It has, besides, a superior method of
adding to or decreasing the pressure at the will of the operator, thereby doing away with the
old foot lever. All of these machines are well and substantially built, and adapted to the
purpo&es for which they are designed.

326. J. Bithencourt, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

I LASTS OR FORMS FOR MEN'S, WOMEN'S, AND CHILDREN'S SHOES.

Rtpiyrii. — Commended for good proportions, and shaped to fit the foot; the style is excel-
lent; the wood is of very fine grain, and well seasoned.

327. Giovanni Baldi, Florence, Italy.

men's BOOT TREES; LASTS OR FORMED STRETCHERS.

Rtp^rt, — A very excellent exhibit of boot trees and forms, handsomely finished and of
excellent shapes; also stretchers for instep or toes, which are very ingeniously made.

328. S. Efimof, St. Petersburg, Russia.

CALF (FAIR) BOOT AND SHOE FRONTS.

Rtpori. — A very fine exhibit of Russia calf (fair) boot and gaiter fronts; tannage and
color good; flesh smooth and fair, and grain tough and fine.

329. Rudolph Huebner, St. Petersburg, Russia.

CALF BOOT AND GAITER FRONTS.

Report, — A very fine article of crimped boot and gaiter fronts; fair and very fine in flesh;
grain very fair and tough; tannage very superior.

330. Alexander Emilianof, St. Petersburg, Russia.

CRIMPED BOOT AND GAITER FRONTS.

Reppti, — A good exhibit of calf crimped boot and gaiter fronts; very fine and fair flesh;
ft vt^ry beautiful grain, and very tough, with superior tannage.

331. Broosnetzyn & Sons, St. Petersburg, Russia.

CALF AND HORSE-HIDE CRIMPED BOOT FRONTS AND SOLE LEATHER.

R^art. — Horse-hide crimped boot fronts, black and very superior, fine grain, and excel-
lent tannage; also fair crimped calf boot fronts, very fine flesh, grain very fine and beauti-
ful ; tannage very superior. As a whole, a very fine exhibit.

332. Frederick Lang, St. Petersburg, Russia.

CALF (fair) CRIMPED BOOT AND GAITER FRONTS.

RfpffTt, — A very fine exhibit of Russia calf russet crimped boot and gaiter fronts; well
tanned, with fine, soft, beautiful flesh, and very tough, handsome grain; superior stock.

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333. Modeste Kittary, St. Petersburg, Russia.

A MAP OF THE LEATHER INDUSTRY OF RUSSIA.
Report, — A work evincing much industry and research in regard to the leather industry
of Russia. In addition to compiling a vast amount of valuable statistics in regard to the
leather industry, Professor Kittary has so arranged this map as to illustrate and show at a
glance the extent of the leather industry in any particular section, and its comp|u:ative ex-
tent and importance in the different sections. It is a work of special interest and value to
all interested in this great industry.

334. Antonio Diaz, Malaga, Spain.

ANDALUSIAN BRIDLES AND SADDLERY.

Report, — ^A very superior exhibit of this class of work, combining good workmanship in
the construction, with very handsome and elaborate ornamentation in embroidery, in a
style suited to the taste of Andalusia.

335. Jos^ Rodriguez Zurdo, Madrid, Spain*

ladies' riding bridles and SADDLES.

Report, — A most superior exhibit of taste, skill, and substantial workmanship, while the
exhibit is very handsomely ornamented with raised figures in the leather, and handsome
and artistic stitching. It combines with these excellent proportions solidity, and grace of
general outline. A very superior exhibit.

336. H. W. Hofinann, St. Petersburg, Russia.

TRUNKS, portmanteaus, AND SATCHELS.
Report, — ^This is an extensive and excellent exhibit, comprising solid sole leather trunk,
with round comers, without joints at comers, notable for strength and serviceableness and
excellence of Bnish; also an assortment of soHd leather portmanteaus, grain and Russia
leather, bellows-top portmanteaus, Russia leather and morocco traveling satchels, writing
desks, cabas, and portfolios, which are notable for varie^y of styles and ingenuity of con-
struction and for the taste and excellence of finish and ornamentation.

337. Greenwood & Batley, Leeds, England.

WAX THREAD LOCK STITCH SEWING MACHINE FOR LEATHER WORK.
Report, — This is a sewing machine driven by power, making a lock stitch with wax
thread, using two threads and working with a shuttle over the woik. It is adapted for
sewing the soles on boots and shoes, sewing through the outer and inner soles, or sewing
the outer sole to a welt; also for sewing hamess, siding up heavy boots, and for leather
work generally. Its peculiar merits are the combination of a shuttle and a hook for catch-
ing and opening the loop, enabling it to use thread well waxed with ordinary shoemaker's
wax; also the presser foot, which holds the leather firmly together, obviating the great
strain on Xhe needle and thread in drawing the leather together in sewing, and the general
excellence and solidity of its constmction.

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SIGNING JUDGES OF GROUP XII.

The figures annexed to the names of the Judges indicate the reports written by them
rcfipectiveJy.

John Cummings, i, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, S, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21,
zz, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 4^,
47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, S7i 5S. S9f 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70,
71* 74. 75^ 76, 77* 7^* 79- So, 81, 82, S3, 84, 85, 86, 87, 89, 96, 97, 98, 99, loi, 102, 107,
109, 113, ir4» "6. 117, 03, 124, '3^1 M*'. >37, 138, i39, ^44, H5, H^, i47, 148, 149,
150, 151, 152, 153, iS4, 163, 164, 16S1 166, 167, 168, 169, 170, 172, 257, 289, 301, 320.

J. P. PosTLES, 31,73. 73.90*91.9^1 93. 94, 103, 104, 105, 106, 115, 118, 119, 122, 125,
126, 117, 12S. 129, Jjo* 131* ^f MO1 '4^* 143, Jf55, 156, 157, 158, 159, I7i» "94, 205,
209, 210, 211, 226, 228, 230, 2J2, 234, 242, 249, 250, 251, 252, 253, 264, 282, 286, 292,
293, 294, 299, 300, 307, 30S, 309, 312, 313, 315, 316, 317, 318, 322, 328, 331, 332, 333,
334* 335^ 337-

Thomas Miles^, 88, 95, 100, 108, no, jii, 112, 120, 121, 134, 135, 141, 160, 161, 162,
173. I74i 175^ 17'^. 177* ijSp 179. >So, iSi. 1S2, 183, 184, 185, 186, 187, 188, 189, 190,
191, 192, 19J, 195, i96p 197, 19S, 199, 200, 301, 202, 203, 204, 206, 207, 208, 212, 213,
214, 215, Z16, 217, 21S, 219, 220, 221, 222, 223, 224, 225, 227, 229, 231, 233, 235, 236,
^J7i 23Sp 239, 240, 241, 243, ^44, Z4S* 246, 247, 248, 254, 255, 256, 258, 259, 260, 261,
263, 263, 365, 266, 267, 26S, 269, 370, 271, 272, 273, 274, 275, 276, 277, 278, 279, 280,
aSj, 283, 2S4, 2Ss, 2S7, 23S, 290, 291, 295. 296, 297, 298, 302, 303, 304, 305, 306, 310,
31 r, 314, 319, 32!, 323, 324, 325, 326, 327, 329, 330, 336.

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SUPPLEMENT TO GROUP XII.

REPORTS

JUDGES ON APPEALS.

JUDGES.

John Fritz, Bethlehem, Pa.
Edward Conley, Cincinnati, Ohio.
Charles Staples, Jr., Portland, Me.
Benj. F. Britton, New York City.
H. H. Smith, Philadelphia, Pa.

Coleman Sellers, Philadelphia, Pa.
James L. Claghorn, Philadelphia, Pa.
Henry K. Oliver, Salem, Mass.
M. Wilkins, Harrisburg, Oregon.
S. F. Baird, Washington, D. C.

I. Goodyear & McKay Sewing Machine Association, Boston, Mass., U. S.

NO. I. A machine for SEWING WELTS OR INSEAMS FOR WELTED WORK.
NO. 2. A MACHINE FOR SEWING OUTSOLES TO WELTS AS HAND MADE-WORK,

Report. — Commended for ingenuity and skill in mechanism. The only machines adapted
to sewing on a welt and sewing welt to outsole as hand-made work. No. I machine is also
adapted to sewing twine around shoes, using a curved needle ; will sew on an ordinary
last, thin and medium edge. Sewing Brm; good, substantial, springy work.

2. P. J. Rentrel, New York, N. Y., U. S.

BOOT, SHOE, AND GAITER UPPERS.

Report. — A exhibit of men*s riding enameled leather, calf vamps, maroon, goat, and
patent leather vamp, and plain boot legs, button and Congress gaiters, short quarter shoes,
etc. Machine stitching and fitting very satisfactory ; material and proportions good.

3. C. M. Henderson & Co., Chicago, 111., U. S.

BOOTS AND SHOES.

Report, — Good substantial work, and well adapted to the purpose intended.

4. Fred. A. Lockwood, Fall River, Mass., U. S.

AUTOMATIC LEATHER SCOURER.

Report. — Commended for originality, fitness for the purpose intended, and progress as a
labor-saving machine.

5. J. B. Fisk, Salem, Mass., U. S.

WHITENING AND BUFFING MACHINE.

Report. — Commended for progress as a labor-saving machine, to supersede hand-labor.

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92 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

a. Wm. T, Dixon & Brother, Baltimore, Md., U. S.

BOOTS AND SHOES.

Jf<^*fff#,^-Good substantial work, suitable for th5 wholesale trade.

7. Merino Sboe Co., Davis, Whitcomb & Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

CLOTH SHOES.

^'(7>tfr^.— Commended for economy in cost, and as being well adapted to the intended
purpoaej — -of keeping tie feet warm.

8. W. E. Plummer, Boston, Mass., U. S.

WHITENING AND BUFFING MACHINE.
R€peri.—1V\^ machine is intended to supersede h^d-labor. It produces good work,
and is a forward step in progress.

SIGNING JUDGE OF SUPPLEMENT TO GROUP XII.

The figures annexed to the name of the Judge indicate the reports written by him.
Spencer F. Baird, 1, 2, 3^ 4, 5, 6, 7, 8.

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GROUP XIII.

PAPER INDUSTRY, STATIONERY, PRINTING, AND
BOOK-MAKING.

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GROUP XIII.

JUDGES.

AMERICAN,

James M. Willcox, Philadelphia, Pa.
C O* CkapiK, Springfield, Mass.
Wat, Faxon, Hartford, Conn,
Edward Con lev, Cincinnati, Ohio.
11. T. Br [AN, Washington, D. C.

FOREIGN,

Sydney H. Wa tee low, Bart., M.P.,
Great Bricam,

G. W. Seitz, Wandsbeck, near Hamburg,
Geraiany,

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GROUP XIII.

PAPER INDUSTRY, STATIONERY, PRINTING, AND BOOK-
MAKING.

Class 258. — Starionery for the desk, stationers' articles, pens, pencib, inkstands,
and other apparatus of writing and drawing.

Class 259. — Writing paper and envelopes, blank-l>ook paper, bond paper, tracing
paper, drawing paper, tracing linen, tissue paper, etc., etc.

Class 260. — Printing papers for books, newspapers, etc.

Wrapping paper of all grades; cartridge and manila paper; paper bags.

Class 261. — Blank books, sets of account books, specimens of ruling and binding,
including blanks, bill heads, etc. ; book-binding.

Class 262. — Cards, — playing cards, cardboard, binders' board, pasteboard, paper or
cardboard boxes.

Class 263. — Building paper, pasteboard for walls, cane fibre felt, papier mach^, and
material for construction, car wheels, ornaments, etc.

Class 264. — Wall papers, enameled and colored papers, imitations of leather, wood,
etc.

MACHINES AND APPARATUS FOR TYPE-SETTING, PRINTING, STAMP-
ING, EMBOSSING, AND FOR MAKING BOOKS AND PAPER WORKING.

Class 540. — Printing presses.

Class 541. — Type-casting machines, apparatus of stereotyping.

Class 542. — Types, and type-setting machines. Type-writing machines.

Class 543. — Printers' furniture.

Class 544. — Book-binding machines.

Class 545. — Paper-folding machines.

Class 546. — Paper and card cutting machines.

Class 547. — Envelope machines.

Class 525. — Paper making machinery and processes.

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GENERAL REPORT

OF THE

JUDGES OF GROUP XIII.

Philadelphia, 1876.
Prof. Francis A. Walker, Chief of Bureau of Awards:

Sir, — I herewith transmit the report of the Judges on Paper Indus-
try, Stationery, Printing, and Book-making.
Respectfully yours,
JAMES M. WILLCOX, President of Group XIIL,

jfudges of the International Exhibition,

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^ INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

GROUP XIII.

PAPER INDUSTRY, STATIONERY, PRINTING, AND
BOOK-MAKING.

BY JAMES M. WILLCOX.

On entering upon our duties in the examination of the various
cia^st;s of objects allotted to the Judges of Group XIII., a cursor^'
glance over the entire Exhibition greatly impressed us with the mag-
nitude of the work before us. No less than sixteen classes con-
fronted us, some of which included many hundreds of objects; and
the entire examination must, of necessity, extend over many thou-
sands. The exhibits in Class 258, embracing stationers* articles, were
very numerous and from many parts of the world; and, although
very interesting, they brought to light little that was entirely new.
Perhaps there is little room for absolute novelty in this class; buX
the ingenuity and skill displayed in perfecting the various articles
tbat composed it were very apparent. Of fancy note-papers, en-
velopes, cards, etc., there was an endless variety, gotten up almost
invariably in good taste, and made of the best material. The gold
and steel pen manufacture seems nearly to have reached perfection ;
and the same may be said of every variety of brush, crayon, and
pencil. The best pencils are still brought from abroad; but one line
of articles made from American graphite was of great excellence, and
bids fair to equal, in a short time, the best heretofore imported. The
ink*stand has not yet reached perfection, and this fact seemed to be
realized by manufacturers, who in their efforts have displayed an
almost endless variety, and who pre.ssed upon us with assiduity the
superior claims of quite a number. India-rubber enters largely into
thTS class, but the Exhibition has shown no very recent important
extension of its uses for stationers* articles.

Within the past hundred years the manufacture of paper has been
so much improved as to have undergone a complete revolution.
Even during a considerable portion of the present century the bleaching
of colored stock was impracticable ; white paper was made from stock
that came white into the mill; and the "beating" was accomplished by

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIII. 3

pounding in a mortar. All paper was made by hand, upon "moulds,"
in separate sheets ; and white paper was quite costly. A hundred
years ago only " laid" paper was known, — paper made upon moulds
laid with parallel strands of coarse brass wire. Woven metallic wire-
cloth was not manufactured for paper-makers' use. About ninety
years ago woven wire moulds were first introduced, and paper made
upon them was called " vellum." In all books and instruments of
writing a hundred years old parallel water-marks made in the paper
by the coarse laid wires are distinctly visible. The wire-cloth was the
first step towards manufacturing by machinery. The " Foudrinier"
machine has taken the place of hands, and now runs out a web of
paper six or seven feet wide at the rate of thirty or more yards per
minute. The coarsest and deepest-dyed stock comes, in its roughest
state, to the paper-mill, and is there made clean and white. Stacks
of straw and logs of wood are reduced to fine white fibre ; the pulp
is sized before it is formed into sheets; and, with a few *' roll" beating
engines and one Foudrinier machine, a paper-mill now turns out
daily as much paper as could be made by twelve ordinary mills, with
as many vats, a hundred years ago.

Class 269, embracing all varieties of the finer qualities and styles
of paper, was well represented, and the exhibits were very gratifying.
In this class a marked difference was observed between the American
papers taken generally, and those taken generally from abroad. A
keener competition in the manufacture of fine paper has, for some
years, existed here than elsewhere, resulting in a greater perfec-
tioning of some qualities of paper ; and a greater refinement in the
various styles of presenting them to the market is quite apparent
in the displays of American manufacturers. Among these qualities
are, conspicuously, heavy letter and note, cap, and ledger papers;
above all the last. These papers, as produced by leading American
manufacturers, were found to be made invariably of the best and best-
mixed stock, of unexceptionable colors in white and blue, of generous
thickness, and sized with animal sizing in the sheet. The low rate
of postage in the United States has, no doubt, encouraged the pro-
duction of thick writing-papers pleasant to use; and the enormous
American demand for large blank-books has stimulated the competi-
tive manufacturers of these to demand of the paper-makers the best
quality of ledger paper that can be made. This demand is admirably
supplied, and the exhibits of American paper of this character called
forth expressions of admiration from many foreign visitors. The
foreign papers generally, on their side, displayed some points of ex-
cellence over the American. Owing to higher rates of postage in

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4 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

Other countries, their writing-papers have been for many years made
exceedingly light ; and European manufacturers have, almost univer-
sally, attained to greater perfection in very light papers. The Exhi-
bition has not indicated any important departure from the old rule of
very thin letter paper that has so long obtained in Europe. In Great
Britain, France, and Germany, particularly, great skill and science
have been directed to producing the best grades of paper from inferior
stock, and manufacturers there have thus cheapened the cost of good
paper. In the colors and tints of their fancy papers they have reached
great perfection, and in these points they excel American manufac-
turers. The Russian papers were found to be of excellent stock,
which seems to abound in that country, and the Russian exhibits
were good. The Italian papers in the Exhibition were nearly all hand-
made, of good stock, good color and texture, very strong and ser-
viceable, but of lower finish than most others. Some of these were
of remarkable size for hand-made paper, and showed great skill in
hand-manufacturing. The exhibit of Spanish papers was large and
varied and contained much excellent paper. Their cigarette papers
were remarkable for fineness, strength, and other qualities that show
a thorough knowledge upon the part of the manufacturers of the
taste to which they have to cater. Nearly every Spanish exhibit
contained specimens of cigarette paper; and it is worthy of remark
that nearly every paper exhibit from the Continent of Europe, from
Spain to Russia, contained excellent paper of this kind.

The only specimens of photographic paper shown came from
France and Germany. This paper is difficult to perfect, and its points
of excellence have not been much studied by American manufacturers.
It is necessary that it be perfectly free from particles of iron and steel,
no matter how minute, as these would be developed into stains by
the regular treatment it has to undergo in the photographer's labora-
tory; and the American plan of beating the stock with a steel-armed
roll upon a steel bed-plate, precludes the possibility of having the
paper absolutely free from liability to iron-stain. When any one of
our mills shall adopt the expensive European plan of using brass
exclusively instead of iron or steel, there need be no serious difficulty
in manufacturing the best of photographic paper. A feature in which
nearly all European manufacturers excel is in pulp- or engine-sizing.
In this they leave American manufacturers far behind. It is notice-
able that, whereas the latter size all their best and medium writing-
papers in the sheet with glue sizing, the former produce a very hard-
sized paper by the cheaper process of pulp-sizing. This process
should receive greater attention in our country, and there is no good

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGEii OF GROUP XIII. 5

reason why the medium grades of American writing-paper should
not be produced in mills that do not possess drying lofts, as in older
countries.

In confirmation of my views regarding American blank-books and
paper, I am glad to be able to present those of Mr. Gustav W. Seitz,
of Hamburg, Germany, one of my associate Judges, and a gentleman
of great experience and accurate judgment. These have been given
me in the form of a letter ; and, as the whole communication is in
reference to the work of our group, I transcribe it entire.

"Philadelphia, July 24, 1876.

" James M. Willcox, Esq., President of Group XIII,,

International Exhibition, Philadelphia :

" Dear Sir, — In compliance with your request to name such articles
observed by me as were worthy of special notice on account of
their excellence, I beg to state the following regarding American ex-
hibits. The binding of books, as well as the manufacture of blank-
books, is, as to solidity and execution, decidedly the best that I
have seen in the Exhibition. The same judgment applies also to
plain and illustrated printing, which, in beauty and clearness, by using
the best materials (paper and ink), can compete with anything dis-
played. It is quite natural to make mention here of the imprinting
machines, which, being mostly constructed in a very ingenious way,
aid very largely to accomplish such work.

" The patterns and castings of the types also are elegant and worthy
of being copied ; and, all considered, I can well assert that the graphic
arts in the United States are at the height of the times. It is, of
course, not my intention, in giving this testimony, to undervalue the
merits of my own and other nations ; yet it is true that no depart-
ment is as well represented, comparatively, as the American. It is an
agreeable surprise to me to become acquainted with the above-noted
facts, which so clearly show the progress made by America in the
graphic arts, and I shall not fail to make them known in Germany,
being confident that many will be benefited thereby.
" I remain, dear sir,

** Yours very respectfully and sincerely,

" GUSTAV W. SEITZ."

One feature, as I have stated, in which the European manufac-
turers of paper excel, is the variety and excellence of their colors in
fancy papers. A longer experience in this line, and a necessity to
cater to a greater public taste for fancy papers, have placed them
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0 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

quite in advance of our manufacturers in this art ; yet a great advance
has been made here within a few years, and some of the American
exhibits made a very handsome show of colors.

Very little bank-note paper was found ; the most noticeable exhibit
being that of a Massachusetts house of long standing and excellent
reputation. In this character of paper American manufacturers have
long held pre-eminence. This fact is probably explained by a compar-
ison of the circumstances attending the issue of the respective paper
currencies of Europe and the United States. In the former, until
within a few years, no small notes were used, and the notes of large
denominations circulated only among the wealthier classes. They
were consequently little handled, were kept clean, and circulated but
a short time, being generally retired when once redeemed at their
place of issue. It was not important that the paper for them should
possess wearing qualities in a high degree. In our country, on the
contrary, we are accustomed to notes of small denominations ; and
for a very long period, among all classes of people, paper has gen-
erally been the material of currency, in denominations of one dollar
and upwards ; and notes have been repeatedly issued, to save cost of
new ones, long after they became unfit for public use. The frequency
of counterfeiting in our country rendered necessary costly engraving
and printing, and American bank-notes are, compared with most
others, very expensive ; hence a reluctance on the part of our banks
to frequently renew them. These circumstances explain the demand,
on the part of the banks, that their paper should wear as long as pos-
sible; and the demand has been well met upon the part of our manu-
facturers. The exhibit of its special currency-paper, shown by the
United States Treasury Department, in the Government Building, was
entered simply as a contribution to the Government's general exhibit,
and not for competition. Its special feature is a localized colored fibre,
so incorporated into the sheets as to appear only in a fixed part of
each note when printed, and not elsewhere. This paper has been in
use since 1869, is essentially American in discovery and manufacture,
and is now used exclusively by the Government, for the bonds of the
Funded Loan, the National-Bank notes, and United States Treasury
notes of all denominations. One interesting exhibit of paper of bank-
note character turned up unexpectedly in the Mexican department.
This paper was indifferently well sized and woven, but was of remark-
able strength and pliability. It was manufactured from the leaf-fila-
ments of the maguey plant {Agava Americana), of which a specimen,
growing in a flower-pot, was brought from Mexico for exhibition.
The provincial name of the plant is Quiotc, and it is described as one

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIIL 7

of the most characteristic and common plants of Mexico, growing
throughout the low valleys, where it has long been cultivated for its
juice, which is made into a fermented drink. On the mountains it
grows wild, and the largest plants found are near Llanos de Apan,
between Vera Cruz and the city of Mexico. Somewhat resembling
a cactus, and possessing spines, it spreads its long, fleshy leaves to a
diameter of six to eight feet, from the centre of which rises a straight
stem ten feet high, tipped with yellow flowers. It is propagated by
transplanting suckers that spring up from the roots and grow vig-
orously. When the filaments are prepared for paper stock the leaves
are hackled green, the flesh easily separating and leaving behind
a good handful of fibre. I have described this plant somewhat
minutely, since, from the best information I can gain, it promises to
be, in the future, of great utility in paper-making, especially as I learn
that it can be cultivated at a very low cost.

Of printing-papers (Class 260) the display was not great, and there
seemed to be but little inducement to bring them from abroad for
exhibition. Those shown from there were of a more natural color
than the American book-papers, which, to meet a taste on the part of
our publishers that is not to be commended, are bleached to such an
extent, and supplemented with a delicate tinging of blue and red, as
to become of too dazzling a whiteness to be either pleasant or harm-
less to the eyes. Some displays, however, of a more natural or
creamy tint, seemed to promise a prevalence of better and healthier
taste in the future. The cost of printing-paper is as low as it was
twenty years ago, and of some classes lower. At that time the
supply of raw material was getting scarce, and it seemed probable
that paper would become higher every year. The necessity of the
case, however, stimulated invention and developed the use of, first
straw, and then wood, as partial components of printing-paper. The
perfecting of wood-fibre has advanced farther than that of straw ; its
admixture has become common in both news- and book-paper ; and
to this is due. principally, the present low prices of these papers in
the market.

There were several very interesting exhibits of wood-fibre pulp for
paper-makers* use, some prepared merely mechanically, by grinding
the fibre from the block, and some by a disintegrating chemical pro-
cess. That prepared in the latter way (which is by hard boiling in
alkali under high pressure) is much superior, having greater length,
strength, and flexibility, and being much more free from natural gum
and all else that is not pure cellulose. The wood-pulp exhibited from
the United States was principally from poplar; that from Sweden and

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8 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

Norway (the most important European exhibits) principally from
pine. The latter, though less pure, had greater strength, and was the
strongest that I had ever seen, which leads me to believe that the
pine of those countries possesses unusual toughness of fibre, and is
peculiarly well adapted to the manufacture of paper-pulp. Other
interesting exhibits were made of raw materials for paper, among
which was the maguey plant, from Mexico, already described, esparto
and other grasses from Spain, banana-leaves and "halfa" from Egypt,
and quite a series from Victoria, Australia. Haifa is a species of
swamp-rush resembling esparto, growing abundantly in Egypt, and
the paper made from it was fair in quality and color. That made
from banana-leaves was of a pleasing buff, natural color, and was
handsome when printed and bound.

In the Victoria department were many specimens of paper, made
from various fibres, rather crudely prepared, some of which, I am sat-
isfied, could be well utilized in the manufacture of finer papers. I
deem this matter to be of considerable importance, and cannot so well
do it justice as by transcribing in full the following letter to the Com-
missioners from Victoria, from the Curator of the Melbourne Botanical
Gardens, explanatory of the exhibits of paper-fibres and various dyes.
It is as follows :

"Gentlemen, — I have the honor to furnish, as you request, a
description of the fibres, gums, resins, dyes, woods, carpological
specimens, etc., prepared and sent by me to the Melbourne Exhibition
and which you have been pleased to forward to Philadelphia.

" As regards the fibres, papers, and woods, it must be admitted that
they far exceed in number those sent from this establishment to former
Exhibitions. The whole of the exhibits described were prepared by
myself and two assistants, with but crude appliances at our command,
and within eight weeks prior to the opening of the Exhibition. The
greater portion of the necessaries forming the laboratory which once
belonged to this department had been transferred to another branch ;
thus I have had to make the best of the few opportunities afforded
me for preparing in so short a time the present collection. The
fibres, some forty in number, were produced in a very primitive way ;
the branches or leaves of the plants being merely steeped in water,
and afterwards combed by hand. The quality and quantity, however,
.of each kind thus prepared will, I trust, serve the purpose of testing
their commercial value at Philadelphia.

" Many new discoveries in the way of fibre-yielding material are
shown, not only of Victorian native products, but those of the other

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIII. g

colonies acclimatized here, and of exotics also hitherto esteemed only
for ornamental purposes in gardening.

*' Had time permitted, my collection of exhibits would have been far
greater. I should have been able to collect and test the value of many
plants which I know exist on the borders of Gippsland, and even
nearer to Melbourne, — I mean the Macedon and Dandenong Ranges.
It is almost needless for me to say that the colony of Victoria affords
great facilities, both as regards soil and climate, for the cultivation of
the valuable commodities which constitute fibre and paper material.
For instance, the Chinese grass-cloth plant, Boehmeria nivea, the New
Zealand flax, Pkormium tenax, the Fourcroya gigantea, the Agaves^
the Lagunaria Pattersoni, — cowitch-tree of Norfolk Island ; the Yuccas
aloifolia, filamentosa, and gloriosa ; the Abutilons and Hibiscus, of India,
China, and America ; the Sparmannia Africana, and a host of other
foreign plants all thrive as well, and in some instances better, in this
colony than in their native homes.

'* The samples of Sparmannia sent to the Melbourne Exhibition have
been prepared from both the living and dried barks of the shrub. I
have never read of its ever having been discovered that this plant con-
tained a fibre of any value. Hitherto I had only known it to be in-
teresting as an ornamental shrub, or the plant in whose blossoms the
great Linnaeus first discovered the sexual system in botany. My
introspection of its fibrous nature, as with others now exhibited, was
only gained by mere accident in a hurried attempt to collect and pre-
pare a variety of fibres for your Exhibition; but if even one of them
prove to be of commercial value — and I believe many of them will,
because of their textures and the quickness of their growth — the
object I have in view will be gained, as they will be a boon to the
colonists. The Sparmannia, like the grass-cloth plant of China, as
soon as cut, shoots up, even in a poor soil, with wonderful vigor.
The canes, if I may call them such, are often as thick as one's thumb,
and they average in height from six to eight feet. In good soil two
crops may be safely reckoned upon in the year.

*' The plants of Queensland, from which fibres have been prepared,
have all been grown here, and were introduced by the late Mr. Dal-
lachy and the Baron von Miiller, my predecessors in the directorship
of these Gardens. Judging from the growth of the Hibiscus hetero-
phyllus, Sida retusa (Queensland hemp), Pipturus propinquus, or
Queensland grass-cloth plant, Brachychiton acerifolium, 'the flame-
tree,' Sterculia rupestris, * the bottle-tree,' and the samples of fibre
now produced from them, the harvest to be gained by their cultiva-
tion in Victoria would be as great as in the sister colony. It may

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lO INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

appear strange to many that plants like these and others described,
indigenous to a warmer clime, should thrive as well, and even better,
in this cooler one, yet there are ample proofs that such is the fact.
The growth of the flame-tree, for instance {Sterculia or BracJiychiton
accrifoiium of Queensland and New South Wales), is more rapid in
Victoria than in either of the colonies mentioned, and the bast
furnished by this tree is, I consider, superior to Cuba bast. This,
of course, remains to be proved by those in Philadelphia, who are
better able to judge of its merits, and of others which I have described
in my list. But it is more singular still to observe that plants which
grow side by side with these in warmer latitudes, will not grow here
at all, but merely exist. Laportia gigas is the great stinging-tree, of
which I have sent samples of fibre from plants which never attain in
this garden more than four feet in height, — being cut down by
frost every winter, — yet I have seen it beside the flame-tree in the
brushlands of Queensland and New South Wales attaining a height
of seventy-five feet, and with a trunk more than five feet in
diameter.

" The Pipturus propinquus, Sterculia rupestris, Sida retusa, and many
others, grow as quickly here as in Queensland. Quite as good
results, therefore, might be expected by cultivating these plants;
but need we go farther than our own colony of Victoria for quality
or quantity of fibre or paper material, when our forests teem with
valuable plants suitable for their manufacture? If we only instance
the Pimelias, Dianellas, Plagianthus, Caladiums, Lepidospertna, or * mat-
grass,' Commersonia^ Brachychiton populneum, Urtica iitcisa, Cyperus,
Typha, Scirpus, Carex, Isolepis, and the rushes jfuyicus vaginatus, mari-
tivia, and pauciflora (and there are scores of other indigenous plants
equally valuable), rags need no longer be collected for paper-making,
nor introductions from other countries for cordage. With sixty mil-
lions of acres of good land included between the parallels 30° and
39^ south latitude, we can, without cultivation, reap abundant harvests
of paper material, even from various species o{ Eucalypti, Xerotes^ Me-
laleuca, Cyperus, and others, and, indeed, from some of the grasses
which are plentiful in their midst. Our native vegetable resources
are great, and should therefore be thoroughly searched up. My-
th irty crude samples of paper, which are sent in frames, were pre-
pared under great difficulties, and they were only made to prove
what can be done with some of our native plants. Many of them
are new, but the indefatigable Mr. Ramsden, of the Victorian Paper-
Mills, has devoted his attention particularly to the manufacture of
paper from Victorian plants, and he will, no doubt, be able to add

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIII. n

to his collection long before the colony has been thoroughly ex-
plored.

" The dyes, forwarded in bottles, are not so numerous as they would
have been had time permitted me to send out collectors; but the
samples of silk, calico, and woolen material stained with them show
a variety of beautiful colors, the value of which will, no doubt, be
proved at Philadelphia.

" I regret to have to say that my collection of woods could not be
properly seasoned. Some of them were polished within a week after
they were cut from the tree, consequently many of the specimens
have split from end to end.

" I have the honor to be, gentlemen,

" Your obedient servant,
"WILLIAM R. GUILFOYLE,
*' Director of Botanical Gardens, Melbourney

The display of blank- and account-books (Class 261) was remark-
ably good. From Europe were specimens of books made up of very
strong and excellent paper, principally hand-made, with most solid
covers sheathed with metal over the wearing parts, closed with lock
and key, and in every respect admirable. These were few, and the
foreign display was confined almost entirely to France, Italy, Germany,
and Russia, doing much credit to all. The American blank-book
manufacturers, especially, but not exclusively, those nearest the Exhi-
bition, in this city, made very large and handsome exhibits. On the
merits of these I prefer to give the judgment of Mr. G. W. Seitz, of
Germany, my associate Judge, who writes : '* The binding of books,
as well as the manufacture of blank-books, is, as to solidity and
execution, decidedly the best that I have seen in the Exhibition."

The manufacture of papers belonging to Class 263, building-papers,
has vastly increased within a few years, and many new applications
of them have been made. The quality also has improved by the ad-
mixture of hemp and manila in much larger quantities. These papers
are used natural or saturated with bitumen, and are sometimes printed
in either water- or oil-colors. They cover roofs and floors, line inside
walls, protect outside walls, line cisterns, underlie carpets, displace
mattings and oil- cloth, dispense with lathing and plastering, and find
a number of uses that increase every year. This increase is good
evidence of their economy and utility; and the exhibits were, in the

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12 JNT£RNA'i:ONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

order of their quality and magnitude, ist, from the United States; 2d,
Sweden; 3d, Japan; 4th, France. The Japanese papers of this char-
acter were the strongest and best shown, being made principally of
mulberry-bark, and enameled with oil-colors and varnish in the most
perfect and durable manner. These were floor-papers only, and the
various other species of building-papers shown by other countries
were not exhibited by Japan. Very little Japanese paper is made from
rags, or linen or cotton fibre; but most of it is made, in a primitive
way, of materials obtained from plants which are specially cultivated
for the manufacture of paper and for no other purpose. The most
important of tliese plants is the Kodzu ; then come the Gampi, the
Mitsumata, the Kuwa, or mulberry-tree, the Hi-no-ki, a species of
wild-cherry, and several others unknown to us. It is the bark only
of these shrubs and trees that is used, and not the woody fibres.
The better qualities of paper are made in workshops arranged for
that special purpose ; but most of the paper of Japan is home-made
by farmers, at times when their fields do not require their whole
attention. Such paper as we are daily accustomed to see is manufac-
tured from rags, and only in the regular paper-mills recently built at
Tokio, and which are provided with foreign machinery.

Of Class 264, embracing wall- and other ornamental papers, there
was an excellent display; and it is much to be regretted that France,
which notably excels in the manufacture of these kinds of paper, sent
none of her best wall-papers to the Exhibition. But one notable ex-
hibit came from Great Britain, and it might well serve for a suggestive
model to our designers of decorative paper. Sweden showed speci-
mens from several of her principal manufacturers, among which
rich and bright designs in velvet and colors were numerous. Warm
tints predominated, and the patterns, not suitable for American taste,
indicated the climate of the country from which they came, and would
seem to accord well with a refined taste modified by the protracted
winters of the far North. Italy presented a very beautiful book of pat-
terns, from Naples, that was in keeping with the well-known Italian
artistic taste. The ancient frescoes upon the recently uncovered
walls of Pompeii were there reproduced with accuracy; and the
finest minutiae of all the designs had received great care and pains.
These papers were well worth the study of our producers of paper
decorations, and might aid in forming a true and high artistic taste.
What principally distinguishes the European wall-papers generally
from those of this country is that the former are mostly made up of
specific designs, each very complete in itself, that court inspection
and study, the general effect being subordinate to the particular ex-

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIII. 13

cellence of the parts ; while with the American papers the general
effect is principal, the shades and designs more blending, and the
finished details of the finest papers of Europe generally wanting.
This general effect aimed at by our manufacturers is not too much at
the expense of minutiae for the prices that they are able to obtain ;
and it is certainly admirably produced according to their aim. Any
other style would not meet their market, andtheir efforts are naturally
put forth to perfect the styles that will sell. There are exceptions to
this rule, and in one of the principal American exhibits there were
perfect and cheap copies of very fine foreign designs. Nothing is
here meant in disparagement of American designs, for differences in
taste may well exist, are frequently radical, and are due to the unal-
terable characteristics of a people. The American machinery for
printing wall-paper has reached great perfection, and more than
twenty colors are sometimes printed from as many cylinders during
one continuous operation. Very handsome specimens of decorative
paper were to be seen in the German department, and Russia presented
quite a number, some of which were peculiar and quite attractive.

From the Netherlands came imitations, on paper, of fine and varie-
gated marbles, of ornamental .woods, and of inlaying of woods of
various textures and colors, that were very perfect, and quite superior
to anything of the kind found elsewhere. Correct Flemish taste and
patient Flemish labor were conspicuous in these elaborate imitations.
Suspended from the walls. of the office of the Commissioners from
Belgium were admirable imitations, in heavy embossed paper, of the
old leather hangings of Malines and Cordova. So perfect were they,
that close inspection only could satisfy one that remnants of these
famous leather decorations were not before him.

Of ornamental papers, for book-binders* use, a very fine exhibit
came from New York, and two exhibitors, from Austria and Bavaria
severally, presented books of patterns of marbled and other fancy
papers that seemed absolutely perfect of their kind. If these could
be purchased and retained in the United States they might, in the
future, contribute largely to the perfecting of the products of our
book-binderies.

In paper-making machinery there were few exhibits, and all Amer-
ican. In this branch of manufacturing Americans are not excelled,
and this may partly account for the absence of foreign exhibits in it.
Machinery of this kind, too, is heavy, and expensive to handle, and
could not naturally be expected from abroad when no hope of pros-
pective remuneration is entertained. An entire paper-machine was in
operation in Machinery Hall, erected and run at great expense by

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14 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

the builder. This was critically examined by practical judges and
deemed to be excellent in all its details. It contained some important
improvements, and manifested an ambitious and intelligent desire in
the builder to accomplish real progress. The demand in this country
for highly-finished book-paper has wrought great improvements in
the apparatus for super-calendering in the web; and the several
such exhibits would seem to indicate that nothing much more
complete need reasonably be looked for. One most important im-
provement in calendering machinery is of the last ten years, and
consists of a stack of from eight to twelve small rolls, not of ordinary
cast-iron, as of old, but of chilled iron with a surface as hard as steel.
Three exhibits of these were brought from Wilmington, Delaware, in
which each roll had been separately ground and polished so accu-
rately that the faintest glimmer of light could, not pass between any
two rolls when put together. So great is the accuracy obtained by
the new process of singly polishing, that any two rolls of all these
exhibits might be placed together and touch each other throughout
their entire lengths.

The envelope-machines were equally interesting and satisfactory,
and a most important addition has been made to these within a few
years. Formerly the " blanks" for folding were run out by hand, and
the flaps that are finally closed were gummed by a brush and dried.
This was to allow the machine to make up and press together the
envelopes without an adhering of the last flap when folded. The
latest improvement permits the whole envelope, including tlie last
flap, to be gummed by machinery at one process, after which it is
carried some minutes through the air to dry the last flap before fold-
ing it down previously to counting and banding. This is perfectly
well accomplished, and considerable labor is saved thereby. One
machine cut the envelopes automatically from narrow rolls, with a
minimum waste of paper, and a cheapening of the product seemed to
be effected to a considerable extent by this plan. Envelopes made
by the machine exhibited were very perfect, and made with great
economy, and it is probable that there is little room for further im-
provement in that direction.

One of the most important parts of our labors was the examination
of articles included in Class 540, which embraces all kinds of printing-
presses. This was a study of the " art preservative of all arts/' and
all progress made in it ought to be viewed as important to the prog-
ress of mankind. A great number of presses for various purposes,
including roller-presses for bank-note work, were exhibited, many of
which were kept in pretty constant operation. Most of these were

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIII. 15

American, and the most notable foreign presses were from England,
France, and Germany, all of the very best character. The immense
issues of the principal newspapers of the large cities of Europe and
America, and the few short hours in which they have to be printed,
have demanded new facilities and greater rapidity of printing than
was possible by feeding sheet by sheet Within a few years only this
demand has been supplied, and presses now take the paper in large,
continuous rolls, pass it rapidly between cylinders covered with cir-
cular stereotyped plates, print both sides in quick succession, divide
the broad web into two running narrow ones, cross-cut them precisely
in the middle of the margins, fold each sheet neatly twice, and deposit
all in rows at the rate of over twenty thousand newspapers per hour.
A printing-press of this character deserves to rank among the great
feats of the mechanic arts, and the three exhibited drew for many
months crowds of observers, and were universally recognized as
being among the wonders of the Exhibition. These three were the
Walter press from England, exhibited by Mr. Walter of the London
Times, the Hoe press from New York, exhibited by R. Hoe & Co.,
and the Bullock press fromt Philadelphia, exhibited by the Bullock
Press Co. The latter company boldly placed in competition a press
of unusual width, and printed two sheets at a time of the New York
Herald, qn a roll of paper sixty-three inches wide. The web of
double width was then rapidly slit in two, and cross-cut into sep-
arated sheets. The Hoe press was also double, and printed two
sheets at a time of the Philadelphia Times^ on a roll of paper fifty-two
inches wide, which it then slit and cross-cut, after which it carried the
separated sheets forward for an additional operation. This was the
folding ; and the process was effected by two folders, one on each side,,
folding each sheet twice, and delivering it with absolute exactness,
without a single fault. The Walter press was narrower, and printed
a single sheet of the New York Times on a roll of paper thirty-six
inches wide, which it cross-cut and delivered flat. Its speed was
greater than those of the wider presses, and the work of each was ad-
mirably done. The following is a summary of the competitive trial :

WALTER PRESS.

Printed the New York Times, size 36 by 46^.
Web of paper 36 inches wide.
Number of copies printed in an hour 10,455.
Number of running yards printed in an hour 13,486.
Number of square yards printed in an hour 13,486.

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l6 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION^ 1876.

HOE PRESS.

Printed the Philadelphia Times, size 26 by 37>^.
Web of paper 52 inches wide.
Number of copies printed in an hour 21,810.
Number of running yards printed in an hour 11,359.
Number of square yards printed in an hour 1640 1.
Slit the web, after printing, into two sheets, and folded each sheet
twice.

BULLOCK PRESS.

Printed the New York Herald, size 31^ by 45^.
Web of paper 63 inches wide.
Number of copies printed in an hour 14,856.
Number of running yards printed in an hour 9388.
Number of square yards printed in an hour 16,372.
Slit the web, after printing, into two sheets.

For further particulars of this remarkable trial of merit I refer to
the following letter of Sir Sydney H. Waterlow, Bart, M.P., of Lon-
don, one of my associate Judges, a gentleman eminently well quali-
fied to judge of the merits of printing-presses, and who gave to those
of the Exhibition a special and careful examination. The letter con-
tains also very valuable general observations upon the printing-presses
of various kinds exhibited, that should be publicly presented to that
part of the community interested in such information.

"International Exhibition, Philadelphia, July 11, 1876.
**To THE President of the United States Centennial Commission:

" Sir, — The exhibition of printing-presses in Machinery Hall and
elsewhere is perhaps one of the most remarkable features of the In-
ternational Exhibition. It is impossible to examine them without
being struck with the extraordinary excellence and completeness
which characterize these exhibits. No description of printing-press
is unrepresented, and many different varieties are represented by
several examples and sizes from the same manufacturer.

'• There are nearly sixty exhibitors, showing more than one hundred
exhibits in this class, and it is a matter for congralulation that scarcely
one of them is without its own excellences and special usefulness.
That some are better than others is a matter of necessity ; but it is
for the opportunity of making comparisons between one article and
another of the same class that International Exhibitions have their
great value. Of the large and more powerful presses, no such col-
lective display has ever before been witnessed, one firm alone showing

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIII. 17

no less than a dozen of their large and well-known cylinder-presses
for the different branches of printing.

** For fast newspaper-presses, some of them at work every day, the
Exhibition has never been equaled, especially the Hoe. Walter, and
Bullock presses, while the number of small job-presses, worked either
by hand or power, is as encouraging as it is surprising.

** The exhibition of presses may be classified into five main divisions :

" 1st. Web presses for printing newspapers very rapidly.

" 2d. Large presses for fine illustrated work, requiring thoroughly
efficient rolling and a slow, steady impression.

" 3d. Presses for printing newspapers from cut .sheets, with either
double or single cylinders.

" 4th. Presses for small newspapers, book-work, pamphlet- and
jobbing-work.

" 5th. Small job and amateur presses.

" In the first division— ^web newspaper-presses — there are five com-
petitors: the Bullock double press; the Hoe double press, with
folder attached; the Hoe single press, with accumulator; the Walter
single press; and the Campbell press. It is no exaggeration to say
that no such collection of fast printing-presses was ever before brought
together. Differing materially in construction, and in the various
arrangements for cutting, etc., they one and all possess such marked
excellences as to render them very valuable specimens of working
machinery, and to entitle them to great commendation. These presses
have been tested in every conceivable way, as to their general capacity,
number of revolutions per hour, steadiness in running, damping, cut-
ting off", character of work done, strength of web, time lost in putting
on last plate, changing rolls, etc. In nearly every test all the presses
exhibited a high standard of excellence.

*' In a run of one hour, which was by far the most critical test to
which the presses were subjected, the Bullock double press printed
14,856 copies of the New York Herald, making 7428 impressions ;
the Hoe double press, with folder attached, printed 21,810 copies of
the Philadelphia Times^ making 10,905 impressions; the Walter press
printed 10,455 copies of the New York Times from a single set of
plates, making 10455 impressions in an hour.

•' In order to arrive at the exact relative speed of each press, it is
only necessary to multiply the number of copies printed during the
test hour by the length of each sheet as it leaves the press, and so
find out the actual length of paper actually run through the press
and printed during the hour. The Hoe double press printed 21,810
copies of the Philadelphia Times, or 10,905 copies to one set of plates.

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1 8 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

The length of the sheet as it left the press was 37^ inches. The
Hoe double press therefore ran 11,359 yards of paper. The Bullock
double press ran 14,856 copies of the New York Herald, or 7428
copies from one set of plates. The length of the Herald is 45 J^
inches. The Bullock double press therefore ran 9388 yards of paper.
The Walter single press ran 10,455 copies of the New York Times
over one set of plates. The length of the Times is 465^ inches. The
Walter single press therefore ran 13,504 yards of paper.

** During the test hour the Hoe lost 14^^ minutes in changing paper-
rolls, snapping the web of paper, and melting the composition rollers.
The Bullock lost %y^ minutes changing the rolls of paper, snapping
the web, etc. The Walter press lost 6^ minutes changing the rolls
of paper and a break in the web. The working of the folder on
the Hoe double press was very smooth and regular; the open
arrangement of the folder afforded great facility for the rapid removal
of a jam ; and the papers were all smoothly and regularly folded.
The folders worked with precision, and without a hitch throughout
the test. The cutting arrangements on the three presses are probably
of equal excellence.

"On the nth of July a trial was made of the Hoe single press
with the accumulator. This form of delivery has been in use most
successfully for many years, and the trial proved abundantly that the
confidence which the printers of daily and weekly papers having a very
large circulation have given to this machine has not been misplaced.
The test continued for 36 minutes. During this time the machine
produced 6200 papers. Allowing for three stoppages, delaying 6j^
minutes, the speed while running rather exceeded the rate of 12,500
impressions per hour.

** The second division consisted of large presses for fine cut work,
etc. Those exhibited by Messrs. Potter & Co., R. Hoe & Co., and
Messrs. Cottrell & Babcock are unexceptionably fine. Several are in
practical operation, and the character of the work printed is very fairly
represented by sheets of the splendid illustration? of Messrs. D. Apple-
ton & Co.'s Picturesque Europe and other similar works. The printing
of such delicate work, requiring as it does the greatest accuracy of
adjustment and extreme regularity of working of the press, can only
be executed on presses of the highest class, design, and construction.

** In the French section three excellent presses exhibited by P.
Aluzet & Co., of Paris, although not in practical operation, neverthe-
less received a most careful examination from the Judges in the group.
The presses are exceedingly well designed and constructed, and are
entitled to more than ordinary commendation.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIII, \g

"Among the exhibits of the third and fourth divisions will be
found the presses manufactured in larger numbers and more in use
than any others for ordinary purposes in the printing trade : double
and single cylinder-presses for printing newspapers from cut sheets,
at a high rate of speed ; presses for ordinary book- and pamphlet-
work, prospectuses, circulars, posting bills, and all the various kinds
of printed books and forms required by railway companies, banks,
and commercial firms. These presses are on the whole most credita-
ble to the manufacturers exhibiting them, having been carefully con-
structed and well adapted to the different classes of work. Great
progress has been made during the last ten years in presses of this
description, resulting in greater efficiency and greater saving of
labor.

" Division fifth : small job and amateur presses. The display of
these presses in every variety of form, shape, and size, by a large
number of manufacturers, is the strongest indication of the growing
interest taken in the details of the art of printing by a constantly in-
creasing number of persons not engaged in the printing business.
Very many of these presses have been especially and very successfully
designed to give facilities to amateurs to indulge in the very inter-
esting amusement of printing. These amateur presses are not only
well designed but low in price.

•* The great variety of small job-presses has also proved most
useful in general printing-offices, when worked by an adept, turning
out excellent work either plain or in colors, and enabling master-
printers to employ their boys and apprentices with great advantage
and saving in cost of labor. Great care has been bestowed in the
arrangements for giving perfect rolling and distribution in most of
these presses, and much praise is due to the several makers for the
creditable manner in which they have been turned out.

"A most careful examination has been made by the Judges in
Group XIII. of all the various classes of printing-presses ; and, as
some evidence of this, and for detailed explanations of the special
merits of particular presses, I refer to the large number of reports in
this class sent in by the individual Judges of the group.

" I cannot conclude these few remarks without congratulating the
authorities of the Centennial Exhibition on the very extensive and
admirable display of printing-presses, never, I venture to think, ex-
celled at any previous Exhibition in the civilized world.
" I remain respectfully yours,

"SYDNEY H. WATERLOW,
" Judge for Great Britain in Group XIIL'
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20 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

The following communication received from Mr. William Faxon,
one of my associate Judges, contains a tvery interesting history of
the printing-press during the past hundred years, and I am happy to
place it before you as a most valuable part of this general report:

"THE PRINTING-PRESS.— IMPROVEMENTS DURING THE

CENTURY.

" Scarcely any branch of the indujtrial arts has received more im-
portant improvements during the past hundred years than the print-
ing-press, and almost at a glance these improvements have been
made apparent to the hundreds of thousands who have visited the
Exhibition, by the admirably arranged exhibits of Messrs. Hoe & Co.
and the Campbell Printing-Press Co., in each of which is shown a
'* Ramage" press over a century old, as well as the beautifully-con-
structed and rapidly-working presses of the present day. The one
carries us back to the commencement of the period we are cele-
brating, while the other embodies the latest and greatest triumphs of
inventive thought and genius.

" The construction of a printing-press followed close upon the in-
vention of printing by blocks and movable types; but it was originally
little more than upright posts connected by cross-beams, through one
of which a screw worked to give the impression, with a rude arrange-
ment for running the type under the platen. Improvements were
made from time to time, the most notable of which was in 1620, by
Blaeuw, of Holland ; but the screw-and-lever press, with modifications
of the original plan, — yet substantially as seen in our Exhibition, —
was the only press in use until early in the present century, when
important improvements were made in England, by Earl Stanhope,
quickly followed by those of Clymer, of Philadelphia, and other in-
ventors in this country and in Europe. The screw was discarded,
and combinations of levers and toggle-joints were introduced, which,
with various modifications, are in use at the present time.

" The hand-press, with the aid of two men, was capable of printing
only about two hundred and fifty sheets an hour upon one side, and,
as the increasing circulation of newspapers demanded greater rapidity,
attention was directed near the close of the last century to the con-
struction of power- or machine-presses. Wm. Nicholson, of Eng*
land, in 1790, invented the first press of this description. The type
was to be placed upon a cylinder, and the impression given by con-
tact with another cylinder, as is now done in the most approved
presses. Though not a success, it is indi.sputable that Mr. Nichol-

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIIL 21

son's invention embodied many of the principles embraced in the
latest constructed machinery.

" From this time on improvements were constantly being devised,
but it was not until 1813 that a moderatel)f successful machine-press
was constructed. On the 28th of November, 1814, one was actually
brought into use in the office of the London Times^ the paper of that
date informing its readers that they were for the first time perusing a
paper printed by steam upon a machine-press. This press was in-
vented by two Saxons, Konig and Bauer, and gave about eighteen
hundred impressions per hour. In the course of a year or two a
press which printed upon both sides of the sheet was devised, and,
though only moderately successful as to speed, — throwing off but
about one thousand perfected sheets per hour, — its work was well
done, the machine was highly prized, and \t was in use for many
years.

" It is not our purpose to follow in detail to the present time the
various Improvements in the printing-press. We have indicated the
origin of and the essential ideas embraced in the several early in-
ventions. The names of Napier, of Cowper, and of Applegarth in
England, of Richard M. Hoe and Isaac Adams in this country, are
prominently identified with important and essential changes extend-
ing down to our own day. The latest and crowning triumph of
invention for the rapid printing of newspapers is the web perfecting
press, which, with the same manual labor required a century since to
produce two hundred and fifty impressions or one hundred and
twenty-five perfected papers of small size per hour, now prints, in the
same time, from twelve to fifteen thousand mammoth sheets upon
both sides ; and the presses upon which the work was and is done,
standing side by side in our Exhibition, testify more impressively than
words can do to the vastness and the value of improvements made
during the century. The wonderful creations of the Messrs. Hoe, of
Mr. Walter, of the Bullock, and of the Campbell Companies, which
have daily exhibited their powers to admiring thousands, would seem
to leave little in addition to be desired in the future.

** But it is not alone in the rapid production of newspapers that
improvements in presses have achieved wonderful success. The
increasing taste for books, elegant in their typography both in letter-
press and in illustration, has led to the invention of presses specially
adapted to meet these requirements. At the commencement of the
century books and papers were alike the product of the same press,
and it was only by greater care in the printing and in the use of
better materials that the typographical appearance of a book excelled
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22 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

that of a newspaper. Presses are now constructed with all necessary
arrangements for producing the finest book and cut work; the
strongest ink is distributed with the greatest thoroughness ; the rollers
are made to pass over theTorms any required number of times ; and a
firm, square, solid impression is given, so that the printed page has an
appearance of elegance and perfectness until recently quite unknown.

** The smaller job- and card-presses are also an entirely new creation
within the century; they are of infinite variety, are adapted for gen-
eral and special work, and fill an important place in typographic art.

" Such has been the progress of improvements in the printing-press
during the last hundred years, — marvelous as it seems and f>erfect as
the machinery of the present day appears to us, seeming almost to
be endowed with life, thought, and reason, it is not too much to be-
lieve, particularly wheivwe consider the inventive genius of the age
and the requirements of advancing civilization, that the next hundred
years will witness improvements as great or greater than the last, and
quite in harmony, too, with the progressive spirit of the times.

"WILLIAM FAXON."

I much regret not being able, at this late day (September 15), to see
the Campbell web-press in practical operation. At several appointed
times we met to see this press operating, but were always disappointed
in our expectations. Great simplicity and originality are shown in its
general plan ; and there is a reaching after effects through almost in-
variably new devices. The press on exhibition shows, perhaps, the
highest aims yet held by the inventor ; and I am far from uttering any
words in disparagement of it simply because the builder has not yet
been able to overcome all the difficulties that stand in the way of per-
fect success. What we have seen is unquestionably a work of genius,
and I cannot resist the belief that it will yet attain a marked success.

The Exhibition was rich in specimens of beautiful typography, but
nothing absolutely new was noticeable except a plan for cheaply and
rapidly composing titles and scripts, in letters and designs of the
highest and most elaborate art. This was submitted by the Bureau
of Engraving and Printing, in the U. S. Treasury Department, as an
invention of Mr. G. W. Casilear, in charge of the engraving division.
It is a plan only feasible in large and first-class establishments, where
the highest art and skill can be commanded for the execution of origi-
nal letters and designs, to be repeated ; but it enables such establish-
ments, by laying in a large store of the most perfect originals, to com-
pose the titles and scripts of bonds, checks, certificates, bill-heads, etc.,
by cheaply transferring and combining these originals, instead of

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIII. 23

separately engraving every design and script that they may have to
produce in the course of a large and miscellaneous business.

Several " protective** papers were submitted for our inspection and
report, viz., the "National safety paper," the "Commercial safety
paper,** and a paper printed with Francis L. LoutreFs sensitive ink.
These are specially designed to prevent the alteration of checks and
other evidences of value, and are all based upon the same idea, viz.,
a sensitive coloring that will be destroyed by any agent, chemical or
mechanical, that discharges or erases the writing upon the paper, thus
affording evidence of any tampering with the instrument. The papers
of each party, written upon, were submitted to a rival ; and, according
to the best judgment of the examiners, all were fairly altered, I have
always held that such devices are so many steps in the right direction, as
tending to multiply and complicate the difficulties to be overcome by the
forger and counterfeiter ; yet, on the other hand, it is rationally main-
tained that any device publicly claimed to afford certain protection and
sometimes failing to give it positively misleads the public, by causing
men to rely upon a false security. Certain it is that men who practice
fraud by raising checks are skillful experts, and may be safely matched
against men of science in honorable callings ; yet the latter find in no
safety-paper submitted absolute defense against alteration. Of this
fact we were assured by Dr. Charles M. Cresson, of this city, who
stated to us, in the presence of representatives of several protective
papers, that he had found none able to prevent him from altering a
writing without changing the paper. It is not to be supposed that in-
vention in this direction is exhausted, and that a partial failure, a fail-
ure to be simply perfect, is a total failure. The best that has been
accomplished is very creditable, and narrows down the number of
Jbrgers to chemical experts; and enough is accomplished to promise
more in the future.

The administration of the Exhibition can be congratulated upon
the number and quality of the articles submitted to our group of
Judges. They were indeed too numerous and important to have full
justice done them by our best efforts. Our reports recommending
awards for merit are not few, and attest our desire to be as just as
possible to those many men of uncommon intelligence and earnest-
ness who have expended so much time, money, and pains to contribute
their productions as a part of the American Centennial Exhibition.
Where we have erred in our judgment, it is probable that we have ei:red
upon the side of liberality.

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24 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

PAPER-MAKING MACHINERY AND FIBRES.

BY EDWARD CONLEY.

I have the honor to submit the following report in reference to a
portion of the exhibits in Group XIII., together with a review of the
fibres available for paper-making, classed in other groups.

Previous to the invention of modern paper, many different sub-
stances, all of them natural productions, were used for recording.
Stone, clay, and waxen tablets, bark and leaves of trees, entrails of
animals, parchment, papyrus paper, etc., were employed, each people
making use of the substances most convenient to them. Papyrus
paper and parchment, however, were most generally used by all the
civilized nations until gradually superseded by modern paper. It is
impossible to fix a certain date for the invention of this most useful
article, but paper made from pulp was first in use among the Chinese,
probably at a very early period in the Christian era. Thence, after a
long lapse of time, it passed into Tartary, where, we are told, there
was a paper-manufactory at Samarcand in 648. By the conquest of
Tartary in 704, the Arabs became acquainted with paper-manufacture,
and through them it was introduced into Europe at the time of their
conquest of Spain. It was also introduced into Eastern Europe
through the Greeks of Constantinople, whose knowledge of it was
obtained direct from Tartary. This is what is known as cotton pap>er,
which gradually took the place of parchment and papyrus, until in
its turn it was superseded by linen paper, or paper made from rags.
Many attempts have been made to fix a date for this important im-
provement, but without success. When or where linen papjer was
first made it is impossible to tell; we only know that it came into use
about the middle of the fourteenth century, and in the fifteenth was
used almost exclusively. It is a striking and significant fact that the
use of linen paper should have become general just at the time of
the invention of printing, as there is no fabric so well suited to meet
all the demands of the press as this. The invention of printing natu-
rally gave an impetus to paper-making, and from that time we find
the paper-making interest continually increasing. The press and
the paper-mill, those two powerful agents in the advancement of civil-
ization, have gone hand in hand, progressing always towards greater
perfection. It is, however, during the last hundred years, which have
been so fruitful in improvements of all kinds with every race of civil-
ized man. that the greatest progress has been made. In fact, from
the time of the invention of modern paper, which is an aqueous de-

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIII. 25

posit of vegetable fibre reduced to a liquid state, up to the close of
the last century the progress in paper-manufacture was very slow.
Since then the improvements have been so numerous, both in pro-
cesses and machinery, that they far surpass all that had been made
during the centuries of its previous existence.

A hundred years ago the process of paper-making was so different
in its details from the present time that it might almost seem a differ-
ent art. Then all the paper was hand-made, as machines for making
paper were not invented for some years afterwards; and the little
machinery used for grinding the pulp would now scarcely be deemed
worthy of the name. The stock consisted of rags, which were con-
verted into different kinds of paper, according to their texture and
color, bleaching paper-pulp being then an unpracticed art. The great
increase in the uses of paper, which grew up with the advancing state
of civilization, produced a demand for a more abundant and less ex-
pensive nwterial. By the aid of chemistry this demand has been met,
and the use of alkalies has made it possible to employ many fibres
for paper stock that previously were of no practical utility. By their
means fibrous substances can be thoroughly disintegrated, and subse-
quently subjected to the modern bleaching process. Now the wood
from our forests, the straw from our grain-fields, old paper from our
waste-baskets, and even jute from far-away India, are staple materials
upon which paper- manufacturers depend to keep their mills running.
The rags, also, are subjected to processes at that time unpracticed, if
not unknown, and those that formerly would have been thought unfit
for making the lower grades of paper now become stock for the finer.
Not only in the processes, but also in the machinery for paper-manu-
facture, the improvement has been almost without parallel. From
the time of the invention of the paper-machine, about the beginning
of the present century, which may be truly said to have revolutionized
the art of paper-making, the inventions and improvements in the
machinery used in its manufacture have been so numerous that it
would be a work of great time to enumerate them.

PAPER-MAKING MACHINERY.

A sketch of the improvements made in paper-manufacture seems
to be properly introduced by the invention of the Fourdrinier machine,
for it is to this that the great change is mainly due. This was in-
vented in France, in 1798, by Louis Robert, an employee in the paper-
manufactory of Francis Didot. The credit of making the invention
of practical utility, however, is due to the Messrs. Fourdrinier, of
London, from whom the machine takes its name. These gentlemen,

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26 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

at that time extensive stationers and paper-manufacturers, greatly im-
proved the original machine, and in 1803 bought up all the patents
that had been issued in reference to it. They still continued to im-
prove the machine until, in i8c6, it was so far perfected that the cost
of manufacturing paper was reduced from sixteen shillings to three
shillings and ninepence the hundred-weight. Previous to the inven-
tion of this machine, paper was made in sheets limited in size by the
size of the mould ; now it can be made over nine feet in width, and
of any length, as the pulp passes over an endless web, and, moreover,
with a great saving of time and money. When paper-machines were
first introduced they encountered the same violent opposition that
followed the introduction of machinery in general. Several machines
were destroyed during the first twenty-five years after their successful
introduction by workmen who had been trained to make paper by
hand, and supposed that the use of machinery would take their voca-
tion from them. Even to the present time the prejudice in favor of
hand-made paper exists among some consumers, who imagine that it
is stronger and better than machine-made paper. An examination of
both kinds shows that the contrary is true, and that the most even,
strongest, and best papers are those manufactured on machines.

The invention of the Fourdrinier. machine was followed by that of
the cylinder-machine. This was invented, in 1809, by John Dickinson,
an English manufacturer, who is said to have been led to the inven-
tion by a desire to compete with a mill near his own in which a
Fourdrinier was in operation. The cylinder-machine is well adapted
to the manufacture of the coarser grades of paper, and especially to
making pasteboards for the use of bookbinders and box-makers.
When used for the manufacture of pasteboard, several cylinders are
worked in connection, by which means a sheet of pasteboard con-
taining two or three thicknesses of paper may be made by one
operation.

Since their first introduction machines have been very much im-
proved ; especially within the last sixty years, by the addition of several
attachments. Among these may be named the pulp-dresser, for
screening the pulp and freeing it from all foreign matter; the dryers
or steam-cylinders, for drying the paper as it is made; and the paper-
cutter, for cutting the web of paper into any desirable size.

Another adjunct of the paper-mill, known as the super-calenders,

I has been introduced within the last fifty years. These are used for

glazing fine papers, and consist of four iron- and four paper-rolls in

one stack, through which the paper passes from one to three times.

Tn the United States these have in a great measure taken the place of

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIIL 27

the plating-machines used in other countries. Ledger, flat, writing,
and fine papers of all kinds, except the first grade of plate-paper, are
glazed upon these machines. Within the last few years the use of
chilled iron calender -rolls has become very general. They are
attached to the machine, and glaze the paper as it is made. To a
certain extent these have proved successful, particularly for news-
paper and the lower grades of book-paper. For the finer grades
they are neither so good nor so economical as the super-calenders.
When the paper is glazed as it comes from the machine, it must pass
through one or more stacks of calenders, containing from seven to
eleven rolls each, in order to get a high finish. The percentage of
waste in this mode of glazing is sometimes very great, and materially
increases the cost of production. Moreover, when the paper is glazed
by one operation it must receive an enormous pressure, which gives
it a greasy appearance, and, from the non-elasticity of the chilled roll,
the least lump is crushed flat until it becomes a dark, transparent
spot. If the paper is only partially glazed as it comes from the ma-
chine, and is then passed two or three times through a stack of super-
calenders, it receives the pressure gradually, and owing to the
elasticity of the paper-calender is not crushed, being in consequence
much stronger and cleaner looking. For these reasons the use of the
super-calenders is preferable to that of the chilled rolls where a high
finish is desired.

In the mechanical preparation of paper stock many minor improve-
ments have been made, such as cutting the rags by machinery, boiling
the stock in close rotary or stationary boilers under pressure, and the
use of the revolving washing-cylinder for removing the dirty water
from the washing-engine. Notwithstanding all modern improve-
ments, the pulp for the finest paper exhibited was prepared in the old
beating-engine, substantially the same machine as that invented in
Holland in 1750. This engine did not come into general use. for
many years after its invention, probably not over a hundred years
ago, and during all this time its principle has remained unchanged.
It is true that in the United States two patent finishing-engines, the
Jordan and the Kingsland, have been put into successful operation
within the last twenty-five years in many book- and news-mills, and
are doing good service in brushing out and finishing the pulp for the
machine, yet the preparatory process of washing and reducing to
half stuff is still done by the old Holland engine. The Gould Patent
Beating-Engine, exhibited by the Holyoke Machine Company, is
of the same class as the two above mentioned, but is constructed on
quite a different principle. It has been in operation about thre6

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28 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

years, and as yet has been used only for reducing half stuff to pulp,
but it approaches more nearly to a substitute for the old Hollander
than either of the others. In its gearing and washing facilities it can
still be improved, but it may be classed in the line of progress.

The paper-machine exhibited by the Gavit Paper-Machine Works
of Philadelphia, which was in almost constant operation during the
Exhibition, is strong and well built. It contains many improvements,
and can claim to be in the front rank of first-class paper- machinery.

One very important discovery was made about a hundred years
ago, — 1774, — the use of chlorine gas as a bleaching agent. It was
many years before its use became general, the first patent being issued
in 1795. This has been of very great benefit to paper-manufacturers.
By means of it the range of materials for paper stock has been largely
increased, as it enables a good white pulp to be obtained from many
substances that otherwise could not be used.

CAUSTIC ALKALIES.

It has been, however, within the last thirty years that one of the
most important of all changes in paper-manufacture has been made, —
the use of caustic alkalies for subduing various vegetable fibres, as
straw, wood, esparto, jute, and many others of like kind. The great
increase in the demand for paper has for many years past made the
question of material a very serious one for paper-manufacturers.
The supply of rags, or materials partially reduced in other manufac-
tures, was not suflScient to meet the demand, and it became necessary
to find some raw fibre that could be used wholly or in part, while
some agent was needed that would thoroughly disintegrate without
destroying them. The use of caustic alkalies has accomplished this,
and has already largely increased the supply of paper material. As
the fibres of different countries become better known, it would seem
to place an almost unlimited supply at the disposal of the paper-
manufacturer of the future. In fact, it is yearly becoming more
evident that it is upon such agents as are necessary for subduing raw
fibre the manufacturer must eventually depend for a supply of mate-
rial. From 1858 to 1866, inclusive, there were issued in England
alone 1 39 patents ** for the use of alkalies for cleansing, disintegrating,
scouring, neutralizing, etc." In the patents issued from the United
States Patent Office during the same time, caustic alkali is used
almost exclusively for the purpose of disintegration, nor have more
recent investigations found any agent to take its place.

In the United States, straw-pulp, prepared by caustic alkalies, is used
to a very great extent, even in fine grades of book-paper. Three

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIIL 29

years ago the consumption of straw for white paper was over one
hundred and fifty tons per day, producing between fifty and sixty tons
of straw pulp. Owing to the depression in the paper trade, and the
cheapness of other stock, not more than one-half as much is used at
the present time. In connection with the use of straw and similar
substances, it may be well to mention a mill that has been invented
by Lahousse. of France, for disintegrating and bleaching these sub-
stances. The mill itself consists of a pair of sandstones, dressed and
run like a pair of mill-burrs. The straw is first boiled under pressure
in caustic alkali, and after being cleansed by washing is mixed with
the bleaching liquor. A continuous stream of this pulp is then fed
to the mill, the stones running at the rate of two hundred and fifty
revolutions a minute. While passing through the mill, a double
object is accomplished : the knots and joints in the straw are thoroughly
disintegrated, and the pulp mixed with the bleaching liquor, and at
the same time the friction of the stones raises the temperature to
about ninety-eight degrees Fahr., at which temperature the chlorine
gas is set free, and acts most advantageously upon the stock. It is
the most effective machine of its kind in use. At present over sixty
mills on the continent have it in active operation.

A large amount of chemically-prepared wood-pulp is also used in
the United States. About ten years ago a stock company was organ-
ized which built the American Wood Paper Pulp Works at Manayunk,
now a part of Philadelphia, for the manufacture of chemically-prepared
wood-pulp. The works are the largest of their kind in the world, and
cost ;psoo,ooo. They have been in successful operation from the start,
and produce fifteen tons of dry white pulp per day. Mr. Bloomfield
H. Moore, of Philadelphia, who leased these works and uses their
products, exhibited a beautiful line of book- and plate-papers, largely
composed of this pulp. These papers have a fine finish, and take an
elegant impression. Several other mills in the country manufacture
chemically-prepared wood-pulp. The aggregate amount produced
daily in the United States is not less than thirty tons.

In the last few years several improvements have been introduced in
the manufacture of wood- and straw-pulp, two of which are worthy
of special mention :

1st. A complete circulation of the caustic liquor through the stock
while boiling under pressure, also heating the liquor up to a high
^temperature, and expanding it before percolating the stock. This
imparts the heat to the stock, and softens the intercellulose while
passing through it. At the same time a separation of the non-fibrous
substance from the stock is effected by the current or circulating

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30 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

liquor. The operation of this apparatus is as follows : An upright
boiler is filled with stock, and a sufficient amount of caustic liquor is
added. A cock is opened, and the liquor is allowed to flow through
a perforated false bottom in the boiler into a centrifugal pump, which
forces the liquor through a coil of pipe in a steam-drum, and then in
at the top of the boiler and through the stock ; the steam and hot
water in the drum heat and expand the liquor, while the pump keeps
up a complete circulation during the boiling.

2d. The other improvement mentioned operates as follows: At-
tached to the bottom of a stationary boiler is a disintegrator or
grinding-machine, constructed on the same plan as a Jordan engine.
The stock from the boiler passes into this disintegrator while under
pressure, where it is crushed, and all particles of the fibre are brought
into contact with the hot liquor. From the disintegrator the stock
passes into a pump which forces it into the top of the boiler. By
this means a complete circulation is kept up, and the stock, pass-
ing through the disintegrator, is thoroughly crushed and separated,
enabling the liquor to act directly upon the intercellulose without
weakening the fibre.

In 1853, Richard A. Brooman obtained in England a patent for the
reduction of wood to a fibrous pulp by mechanical agents. In his
specifications he says: "The machinery consists of a millstone or
millstones, or metal rollers, cylinders or rasps, with roughened sur-
faces, which are caused to act upon blocks or pieces of wood, held in
a frame always in the direction of the grain thereof," a current of
water being directed on to the reducing agent " before its contact with
the wood." Henry Voelter. a German, improved this machine and
introduced its product, which is known as mechanically-prepared
wood-pulp, into Europe and America. Other machines have since
been invented for the .same purpose and applied in this country.
During the last ten years this kind of paper stock has come into
general use both in America and in Europe for the lower grades of
book- and news-paper. It has greatly cheapened the production of
paper, and answers the public wants for every-day purposes. It is
much to be regretted, however, that the natural saps contained in the
wood — it being used in its green state — are very detrimental to the
durability of the paper, particularly when it is excluded from the air
between the covers of a book. Books and newspapers printed upon
such paper will in time mould and decay ; hence books intended to
record the world's progress for the use of future generations, or even
newspapers that are filed away in libraries, should not be printed on
such paper.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIII, 31

The improvement in the use of imperfections or old printed and
written paper has been very great in the last fifteen years, probably
more than in the sixty years from the time when Matthias Koops
first practically used them for making white papers in 180 1. It is
mainly to Americans that the world is indebted for the utilization of
this waste product. During our civil war paper stock became so dear
that American manufacturers were forced to work over old paper in
order to keep their mills running. This was done by boiling the old
papers in a solution of alkah, to destroy the ink, and then piling them
up to drain for several days preparatory to washing out the ink.
They were then repulped, bleached, and mixed with other stock.
There are at least one hundred and fifty tons of this stock used in the
United States per day.

As before said, it has for many years been a serious question with
paper-manufacturers how they shall procure sufficient suitable material
to meet the continually-increasing demand of the trade. European
manufacturers are beginning to feel a need that the manufacturers of
the United States have long felt, namely, a sufficient quantity of linen
rags. In the United States the abundance and cheapness of cotton
goods have prevented the use of linen to any great extent, especially
as only a very small amount is manufactured in the country. Of late
years the same is becoming the case in Europe. Even in flax-growing
districts, the high price of labor has made it more profitable for the
working-classes to buy the cotton goods manufactured by England,
Russia, and the United States than to wear the home-spun linen, as
was formerly the custom. In consequence of this, a comparatively
small amount of linen is worn by the lower orders, and only the finer
grades are made to any great extent. Moreover, the great improve-
ment in machinery has made it possible to manufacture a better cloth
from inferior material, as the paper-maker finds to his sorrow when
the various processes of the mill have taken away all adventitious
aids to improvement. It is in consequence of this need for more
abundant and better stock that so many experiments have been made
with different substances. Here let me say that it would be wise for
such experimenters first to find out if others have not already gone
over the ground. Many spend time and money in perfecting pro-
cesses of which the utility or inutility has been proven long before
by other persons.

In view of this great and growing need, it is encouraging to know
with what a lavish hand nature has scattered her treasures of fibrous
substances, so bountifully indeed that it would seem, with chemistry
and mechanical skill aiding us, no demand could ever possibly equal

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j2 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

the supply. In all tropical countries, both of the Eastern and Western
Hemispheres, the number and variety of fibrous plants are truly
wonderful. In fact, all tropical plants are fibrous to a greater or less
extent. More wonderful still is the small use that has been made of
these plants, when the demand for them has been yearly increasing,
not only for paper-manufacturers, but for manufacturers of textile
materials. In many of these countries, large quantities are yearly
gathered, and after serving some local purpose are thrown away as
useless.

THE FIBRE EXHIBITS.

A slight glance at the fibre plants exhibited by different countries
may not be uninteresting, even if they can be used directly only for
textile purposes. Indirectly they will increase the paper-maker's
supply of material, for after having gone through the previous pro-
cess of manufacture for a textile fabric they are available for paper
stock.

To give a detailed account of the fibres of each country is unneces-
sary, as many of them are common to several countries, sometimes
in both the Eastern and the Western Hemisphere. In Mexico, Cen-
tral America, the West Indies, and the northern countries of South
America, the majority of fibrous plants, if not exactly the same, belong
to the same great families. Those most fruitful in fibres are the
Agaves, sometimes called Aloes, a sub-tribe of the order Amyrilli-
des ; the Bromelias, or pineapples, of the order Bromeliaceae ; the
Musa, or bananas and plantains; and the Palm family, with a few
varieties of the orders Liliaceae and Malvaceae.

The Agaves are indigenous to the American continent and islands
from Virginia to Paraguay, but they flourish so abundantly in Central
and South America, Mexico, and the West Indies, that it would seem
an almost unlimited supply of fibre might be obtained from them.
Of this family the most valuable varieties are the Agave Americana,
Agave Mexicana, and Agave Sisilana, The Agave Americana grows
with great abundance in all parts of tropical America, and has been
introduced with success into various countries of the Old World.
The fibre-producing properties of this plant are too well known to
need much comment here, and it is only necessary to add that the
better we become acquainted with it the more apparent its value
becomes. It has long been used as a paper material, and is well
adapted to the manufacture of cigarette-paper, as the fibre is very
strong and burns with very little smell. Samples of this fibre were
exhibited from Mexico, Brazil, Jamaica, Bermuda, and the Bahama

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIII. 33

islands, and also from Egypt, Hindostan, and Australia, showing the
wide range of country in which it may be cultivated.

The Agave Mexicana is indigenous to Mexico, where it is culti-
vated for the manufacture of pulque, a fermented liquor made from its
juice. It is by many confounded with Agave Americana^ but is an
entirely distinct plant. It is especially interesting for the fibre ob-
tained from its leaves, which is used for a variety of purposes. The
State Government of Hidalgo, Mexico, exhibited a most interesting
case containing specimens of this fibre and the different articles manu-
factured from the plant. There were ropes and cordage, fine woven
goods, nets, bottles of the clear, golden-hued pulque, and other
products, as gum, honey, sugar, etc. Especially deserving of men-
tion was the paper, both on account of the quality of the goods and '
the cheapness of the material. This paper is remarkable for its
strength ; in fact, it is so much esteemed for its toughness and dura-
bility that in 1830 a law was passed by the Mexican Congress re-
quiring that all laws should be recorded upon it, and that it should
be used for legal documents. Paper made from the Agave Mexicana,
worthy of particular mention for its elasticity and strength, was also
exhibited from the Belem mill of Messrs. Benfield, Braker, & Co.,
situated in the District of Mexico. In ancient times the native Mex-
icans used the leaves of this plant for paper in the same way as
the Egyptians did the papyrus. The abundance and cheapness of
this fibre certainly commend it to more particular attention. As the
fibre is really the waste product, it could be procured at very small
cost.

The Agave Sisilana is the plant popularly known as Sisal hemp,
the cultivation of which was introduced into Florida, where it flour-
ished for several years. It is a native of Yucatan, Mexico, where
it is called Henequen. Its cultivation and utilization are yearly in-
creasing, and its fibre is especially valuable for ship-cables, as it
possesses the property of resisting the action of sea-water. Large
quantities are exported to England for this purpose. It is also used
as a paper material, but is not so well suited to this purpose as some,
others of the Agave family on account of the harshness of the fibre.
Some very fine specimens of this fibre were exhibited by the State
Government of Yucatan.

The whole family of Agaves are rich in fibre for paper-making, are
produced in large quantities in their native countries, — sometimes in
situations where nothing else will grow, — are easily gathered at small
cost, and there seems no reason why they should not be utilized for
the manufacture of various kinds of paper. The great trouble in

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34 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

their native habitats has been a want of skill in separating the fibre,
as well as a proper appreciation of their real value.

Next to the Agaves may be ranked the Bromelias, or pineapples,
well known for their silky fibres. The order to which these belong,
Bromeliaceae, is peculiar to tropical America, but their cultivation has
been successfully introduced into several parts of the Old World. It
is from one species that the beautiful textile material known in com-
merce as pina is manufactured. Of this family, one of the most useful
varieties as a fibre-producing plant is the Bromelia sylvestris, known
in Mexico as the istle, and in Central America as the pita. It is self-
propagating, and in the latter country it increases to such an extent
in the forests that it is often a serious hindrance to the passage
through them. Bromelias grow also in South America and the
various West India islands, from some of which specimens were
exhibited. The State Government of Oaxaca, Mexico, exhibited a
variety of fibres obtained from different species, one of which was
over three yards in length. Some of these were remarkable for their
strength, and were produced in every degree of fineness. Like the
Agaves, one great bar to their use has been the want of proper
machinery for separating the fibre. Many who have tried these
fibres say that they are equal to flax. They are sometimes used by
the natives for the manufacture of paper, for mats, cordage, ropes, etc.
From all that can be learned of their properties, they seem well
worthy the attention of paper-makers as a staple paper material.

The different varieties of the Musa, or bananas and plantains, which
are indigenous to the continent and islands of tropical America, also
furnish a good, strong fibre in great abundance. In reference to these
plants it must be remembered that the tree is invariably cut down
when the fruit is gathered, and almost as invariably allowed to rot
away. It is the fibre of the Musa family that is said to be the nearest
approach to hemp or flax, and both writing- and wrapping-paper of
good quality were manufactured from it several years ago in Dem-
erara, British Guiana. Here, too, the want of proper machinery has
prevented the use of the plants to any great extent. They are of
rapid growth, very prolific, and easily cultivated, and the fibrous
material is the part that is generally thrown away to waste. Samples
of this fibre were exhibited from the British West Indian posses-
sions.

In Central America, the northern countries of South America, and
the West India islands many varieties of the palm-tree family are
found. They all produce valuable fibre, which by the use of proper
machinery might be available for textile purposes. Hooker says of

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XTIL 35

this family, that " all palms yield textile fibres, useful especially for
the manufacture of paper." From the Attalea funifera, it is said that
nearly all the cordage used on the Amazon River is obtained. A
few specimens of this fibre were exhibited from Brazil, as were also
samples of different varieties of palm from some of the West India
islands. These palm fibres are very valuable to the natives, and are
used by them for a great variety of purposes. The species are almost
innumerable, there being " over twenty-three varieties producing
fruit, cordage, fibre, oil, and even spirits."

The order Malvaceae produces most valuable fibres in both hemi-
spheres. It is to this family that the well-known Indian hemp belongs,
which grows abundantly in tropical America as well as in India.
One variety, known as the Mohant-tree, Hibiscus arbortus, produces
a white fibre apparently well adapted for paper-making. It grows
abundantly along the coasts of Central America. Another variety,
known in the United States as the okra, is thought to be capable of
producing valuable fibre under favorable circumstances. In Cuba this
grows freely in all kinds of soil. Samples of this okra fibre were ex-
hibited from Jamaica. The Society of Natural History of the City
of Mexico exhibited specimens of mallow fibre, or wild silk as it is
sometimes called. Several varieties grow in Mexico, and are noted
for their soft and silky, yet tough fibres. They can probably be
utilized for a textile material, and hence, indirectly, for paper stock.

The order Liliaceae includes a large range of plants, many of which
are cultivated only for ornament, but to it belong many valuable
fibre-producing plants, among which may be named the different
species of Yuccas. In America, several varieties of Yucca are found,
some of them even as far north as the Missouri River, in the United
States. These are known by several local names, as Adam's needles,
Spanish bayonet, bears' grass, etc. No effort has ever been made in
this country to utilize them for textile purposes, but it would seem
well worth a trial. They grow in the poorest soils, and could be
raised in many parts of the United States. In other countries, good
ropes have been made from the coarser fibres, and a fine cloth re-
sembling linen from the selected ones. The only sample of this fibre
exhibited from America was from Jamaica, from which a specimen
of the Yucca cUoifolia was sent.

Of course the fibrous plants belonging to these orders are not, by
any means, all that are found in America, but these have been referred
to as being the most valuable. The exhibit of fibres from Jamaica
was very fine, and included, in addition to those already mentioned,
Bcehmeria niveau or China grass, which has been successfully natu-

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36 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

ralized; Agave Sisilana; Ananassa sativa and Bromelia penguin^
both varieties of the pineapple family; two varieties of the Musa
family; the naturalized Indian plants Calatropis gigantea, or yercum,
and Sanseviera Zeylanica^ or bow-string hemp, of which a description
is given in the East Indian exhibit ; two varieties of Pandanacecs, or
screw pine ; palm fibres obtained from the leaf-stalks of Caryota
urens ; coir from the husk of the cocoanut; horsehair-like fibre from
the sheaths of the Arenga saccharifera ; and several varieties of
mallow, some of which grow wild in profusion.

From the Argentine Republic, several samples of " caraguata,"
or •' chaguar" fibre were sent. For many purposes it is said to be
equal to hemp or flax. It grows in almost inexhaustible quantities,
and yet has never been exported for a textile material. In the same
country a species of cactus that grows very abundantly is said to
furnish an excellent raw material for paper-manufacture; also a kind
of grass very much resembling the esparto of the Eastern World.

Among the fibres exhibited from Brazil were several specimens
prepared by Mr. S. L. da C. Leite, of the Province of Minas Geraes.
two of which were especially remarkable. One, the fibre of a plant
belonging to the order Asclepiadaceae, or milk-weed family, is notice-
able for its admirable whiteness and unusual tenacity. The plant
grows spontaneously in the country, and has also been successfully
cultivated. It has been already woven into textile fabrics, but its
value as a paper material remains to be tried. It is said to resemble
jute. The other was a specimen of natural paper produced from a
species of fig-tree, Fiats speciosus. The trunk leaves are soaked in
water and then passed between iron rollers, and, coming out very
thin, are used for writing-paper without other preparation. Mr. Leite
also exhibited fibres from a reed belonging to the order Malpighiaceae,
which is peculiar to southern tropical America, and one variety of
palm fibre. There were also sent from the various Brazilian Provinces
several other specimens of fibre. Among these may be mentioned
as belonging especially to southern tropical America, BerthoUtia
excclsa, a variety of the order Myrtaceae; two species of Xilopia,
known locally as white and red embira ; and a third, Xilopia sericca,
noted for its wide, long fibres, which are highly esteemed for various
fabrics; Cecropia pellata, used for woven fabrics, and belonging to the
Urticeae; Copaifera, well known for its medicinal gum, but also valu-
able for fibre; and Bilbergia tUictoria, a species of Bromeliaceae, so
called from the yellow dye extracted from it. There were very few
specimens of palm fibre, of which there are so many varieties in
Brazil. Of these the most valuable were the Attalca funifera, already

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XITL yj

mentioned, and Bactris^ also called tecun, said to be finer and more
tenacious than hemp.

In many parts of tropical America fibrous plants of the Eastern
Hemisphere have been naturalized, and seem to flourish as well as in
their native habitats. It would seem that the great demand for textile
substances might be met near home, if only advantage were taken of
the materials so bountifully supplied. It might be said to American
manufacturers, as was several years ago said to those of England,
that " there is no want of material in every way adapted to the manu-
facture of paper, and paper-makers would soon find it to their interest
to turn their attention to some of it instead of spending their time
in futile attempts to induce foreign countries to supply them with
rags."

In closing the list of fibres in the exhibit from the Western Hemi-
sphere, mention must be made of a sample of asbestos fibre, prepared
by J. S. Rosenthal, of Philadelphia. This mineral is well known for
its long, silky fibres, which have the power of completely resisting
the action of heat. In consequence of this latter property many at-
tempts have been- made to use asbestos as a material for the manufac-
ture of fire-proof paper, but never very successfully, on account of the
difficulty of separating the foreign matters. Mr. Rosenthal has in-
vented a method of disintegrating asbestos fibre which seems more
successful than any preceding one. The asbestos is put into wooden
tanks lined with lead ; it is then covered with water, and the chemi-
cals are added. After the introduction of steam it is boiled from four
to six hours. When disintegrated it is passed through a pair of
rolls, the top one covered with rubber and a rubber apron running on
the lower one, by means of which the water is driven from the fibre.
It is then dried and manufactured into board on a machine especially
constructed for the purpose. Mr. Rosenthal exhibited specimens of
board made from this fibre from one-eighth to three-fourths of an
inch in thickness. This board is used in packing steam-joints, cover-
ing steam-boilers, and in the manufacture of asbestos packing for
steam-engines. He also exhibited some samples of paper made from
the asbestos fibre, which, while not possessing sufficient strength or
smoothness for writing-paper, showed great progress toward the pro-
duction of a fire-proof paper.

Passing from the Western to the Eastern world, we come to coun-
tries where it would seem that centuries of occupation had scarcely
left anything to be discovered, and yet here, too, there is much to be
learned in regard to utilizing the material so abundantly furnished.

In the Eastern Hemisphere, the plants belonging to the orders
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38 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

Urticeae, Malvaceae, Liliaceae, and Tiliaceae are more valuable for their
fibre than in the Western Hemisphere ; and some varieties of the
orders Pandanaceae, Leguminoseae, and others, of which there are so
few specimens in the New World, are valuable additions to fibrous
plants. Here we find valuable specimens of the Musa and Palm-
tree families. In the Egyptian exhibit especially were several 3peci-
mens of fibre from the different varieties of palm. The date-palm is
indigenous to Egypt, and flourishes both on the borders of the desert
and in the cultivated ground. Textile fibres are obtained from the
leaflets, spathe, flower-stalk, trunk, and root. There were several
samples of fibre prepared from different varieties of bananas, and also
from different water-reeds growing in the numerous canals of the Nile
in Lower Egypt. From one of these latter, Cyperus dives, called diss
by the Arabs, it is said an abundance of good paper material can be
obtained. The well-known cat-tail, Typha latifolia, also grows in
great profusion, and some good specimens of its fibre were exhibited.
India has long been celebrated as a country where almost every
variety of fibrous substance is produced, and an enumeration of these
would be like the rehearsal of an oft-told tale. But with all that
has been said and written of them, their real value as textile materials
is scarcely realized even now, though of late years some have come
into more general use. The exhibit of fibres from the British East
India possessions contained over forty different specimens, belonging
to nearly all the fibre-producing families, most of them native to the
country, some naturalized. Of the order Urticeae. or the nettle family,
there were several specimens, beginning with the well-known China
grass or Rhea fibre, and including several specimens native to the
country. Among these may be named the Neilgherry nettle, Urtica
heterophylla ; puyba fibre, Bmhmeria puoya, sometimes called puya
flax ; and Kangra hemp. Cannabis sativa. Of this family of plants
there is an almost unlimited supply in India, many varieties growing
in great profusion along the base of the Himalaya Mountains from
Assam to Sutledge. A proper mode of treatment seems to be all
that is necessary to render them of great value as textile and paper-
making materials. Of the order Malvaceae we find barriala from
Bengal, Sida rhomboida, which very much resembles jute in appear-
ance, and for some purposes is said to be superior ; the "brown hemp*'
of Bombay, Hibiscus cannabinus, which is used for cordage, sackcloth,
and paper; Indian mMov/ , Abutilon Indicum ; and ^osMe, HibisoiS
sabdariffa. The varieties of this family differ very much in appear
ance, but nearly all of them are valuable for their fibre-producing

qualities, and, as they grow in great abundance, are worthy of atten-

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIII. 39

tion. From the order Liliaceae were specimens of Sanseviera Zey-
lanica^ familiarly known as bow-string hemp, which grows wild under
the bushes in the jungles, is very abundant and very strong; and the
Yucca gloriosa, Adam*s needle, which has already been mentioned
among American fibres. One specimen of the order Asclepiadaceae,
Calotropis gigantea, Yercumnar, also a jungle plant, is said to be one
of the most tenacious fibres known, and is much used in Bengal and
Madras for the manufacture of strong cloths, cambrics, and lawns.
This fibre grows very abundantly without any special care. It is
known sometimes as mudar silk cotton. Of the fibres of leguminous
plants exhibited, two are especially worthy of mention, — one the Sunn
hemp, CrotcUaria juncea, said to be a valuable substitute for Russian
hemp ; and Jubbulpore hemp, CrotcUaria tenuifolia. The former is a
well-known article of commerce, the latter only lately coming into
use, and employed for the manufacture of rope.

In addition to these fibres were several varieties of palm fibres,
musa fibres, agaves, bromelias, screw pines, and different species of
mat-grass and flax ; but only one of special interest to paper-makers
remains to be mentioned, namely, jute, Corchorus olitoritis, which be-
longs to the order Tiliaceae, or the lime-tree family. This fibre has
for many years been an article of commerce, and attention is called
to it from the fact that it is capable of being used by paper-makers
for a much greater variety and finer grade of paper than at present
Under proper treatment a fine white fibre can be obtained from it at
less, cost than from the materials generally used for the manufacture
of the finer grades of paper. Jute-culture has been introduced into
America within the last few years. It is cultivated with great advan-
tage in the neighborhood of cotton-fields, as it requires the same soil
and climate. It is said that when the cotton-fields are belted with jute
it serves as a protection against the ravages of the caterpillar.

Many of the fibres in the Indian exhibit have never been tried as
paper materials, and at present could be made use of only indirectly ;
but the great trouble has been want of proper treatment. In order
to utilize them to their full extent, it is necessary to disintegrate them
thoroughly, and at the same time keep unimpaired the strength of the
fibre and its capability of being properly bleached. This once accom-
plished, the want of material need never trouble the manufacturer.

One of the most complete exhibits of paper fibres made was a collec-
tion of samples prepared by the director of the Botanical Gardens at
Melbourne, Victoria, Australia. In this collection sixty-nine fibrous
plants were represented, some by the raw fibre, some by paper manu-
factured from them, and others by both the fibre and the paper.

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40 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

Two-thirds of the plants were natives of Australia ; the other third
had been naturalized. There were about forty specimens of paper.

First on the list of native Australian fibres conies a variety of the
well-known order Urticeae, or nettle family, the grass-cloth-tree of
Queensland, Pipturus propinqmis. From the bark of this tree a good
fibre is obtained, which is used in the manufacture of paper. Accom-
panying the fibre was a sample of the paper made from it. Another
variety of the order Urticeae is the tree-nettle of Queensland, Lapor-
tea gigas. The fibre exhibited was prepared from the bark of this
tree, which sometimes attains a height of eighty or one hundred feet.
The wood of this tree is also fibrous and might be used in the manu-
facture of paper. The natives use the fibre obtained from the bark
and roots for fishing-lines and nets. From still another variety of this
family, the native nettle, Urtica incisa, a very good sample of paper
was made. The pulp obtained from this plant is of a very fine texture,
becomes a beautiful white color when bleached, and seems well suited
to the manufacture of paper. There were also samples of paper and
fibre from the paper mulberry, Broussonetea papyrifera, and China
grass, Bcehfneria nivea, both members of the order Urticeae. but too
well known to need further comment here.

From plants of the order Malvaceae were several specimens. First
of these may be mentioned Langunaria Patersoni, the cowitch-tree of
Norfolk Island, which is also indigenous to Queensland. The fibre
obtained from the bark is fine, strong, and glossy, and can be used in
the manufacture of a good grade of paper, as the sample accompanying
it showed. From the bark of the Queensland hemp, Sida retusa, was
a sarhple of good, strong fibre, suitable for the manufacture of paper,
twine, etc. There was also a sample from the bark of Victorian
hemp, Sida ptdchella, a small shrubby tree, growing abundantly on
various rivers in Victoria. It yields a fine bast, from which a strong
fibre is obtained, suitable for paper and various purposes. From the
hollyhock-tree of Queensland and New South Wales, Hibiscus splen-
dens, were samples both of fibre and paper. This is an ornamental
shrub, or small tree, but its bark is very rich in fibre suitable for
paper and other purposes. Native to the same districts is the Hibiscus
heterophylliis, from whose bark a quantity of good fibre is obtained
suitable for the manufacture of paper, as was seen from the specimens
exhibited. In addition to these native fibres were several specimens
of the same order from South American plants naturalized. Among
these were Abutilon venosum, Abutilon mollis, Abutilon Bedfordianum,
and Abutilon striatum. The bark of all of these plants yields a
quantity of fine fibre, which is said to be a good paper material.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIII, ^i

From New Zealand was one specimen of the same family obtained
from the bark of the ribbon-tree or lace-bark, Plagianthus betulinns.
The bark of this tree is of a lace-like texture, and the fibre is very
strong.

The largest number of Australian paper- fibre specimens was ob-
tained from plants of the order Cyperaceae. Many of these are
familiarly known as rushes, or sedges, and are usually found near
water-courses or lagoons. Among these may be mentioned the fol-
lowing: Scrirpus fluviatilis, a species of club-rush of prolific growth,
yielding an abundant supply of material for writing-, printing-, and
packing-paper ; a sample of this paper was also exhibited. Carex
appressa, a sedge grass, which is also found in great abundance. The
fibre is of strong, coarse texture, judging from the sample of paper,
but with proper treatment it might be used for a finer grade of paper.
Cyperus lucidtis, the shining gallingall rush, which, like the plant
mentioned above, grows very plentifully near water-courses, and can
be readily gathered in paying quantities. It yields a large proportion
of fibre of good quality, from which a strong packing-paper is made,
as shown by the sample ; but it might also be used for finer paper, if
properly prepared. Carex pseudo-cyperus 4S often found growing
with Carex appressa, but not in sufficient quantities to be practically
available, although it is a good paper material, as the sample exhibited
showed. Gahnia psittacorum is a kind of sword-grass, the leaves of
which often attain a length of twelve feet. The paper made from this
plant proves its value as a paper material, and the quantities in which
it grows and the ease with which it is gathered make it practically
available. Cyperus vaginatus grows in large quantities in sub alpine
situations. The paper exhibited was prepared from the stems and
leaves, which yield a pulp suitable for writing-, printing-, and packing-
paper. Paper was also exhibited manufactured from the stems and
leaves of another species of sword-grass, Lepidosperma elatius. This
plant attains its greatest perfection near water- courses in sub-alpine
situations, where the leaves sometimes grow to be nine feet in length.
It can be obtained in large quantities, and yields a strong fibre. The
coast sword-rush, Lepidospcnna gladiatiun, grows very abundantly in
barren, sandy soil, all along the coast-line. This is said to furnish
one of the best fibres for paper-making that is found in Australia.
Samples of paper made from this fibre attracted much attention in
previous Exhibitions, and were also shown in the present one.
Somewhat similar to this is the Lepidosperma flexuosa, slender sword-
rush, known as mat-grass. It grows very plentifully in low-lying,
swampy ground, and furnishes a strong fibre for paper-making. The

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42 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

fibre prepared from Cladium radula, black reed or cutting grass, is
strong, of good quality, and suitable for a paper material. This grass
grows in great abundance in rich land, and can be obtained in any
quantity.

Several fibres were exhibited obtained from plants belonging to the
order Myrtaceae. One of the most singular of these plants is the
Eucalyptus obliqua, or stringy-bark-tree, as it is called by the colonists.
The bark of this tree yields an extraordinary amount of fibre, and as
it grows to an immense height and size, the diameter being sometimes
ten feet or more, an almost unlimited supply can be obtained from it.
The fibre is too harsh to use alone in paper-making, as the sample
showed, but is of value when mixed with other material. The same
may be said of the Eucalyptus fissilis, the messmate of the settlers.
The paper prepared from the bark of the Melaleuca ericifolia, swamp-
tea-tree, is very soft, and well suited for blotting-paper, on account
of its absorbent qualities. This bark is easily obtained, and can be
had in considerable quantities. These qualities belong to nearly all
the varieties of Melaleucas. Paper from two other varieties, Melaleuca
genistifolia and Melaleuca squarosa, was also exhibited.

From the order Sterculiaceae the following valuable fibres were ex-
hibited : From the bark of Sterculia acerifolia, the flame-tree of New
South Wales, both fibre and bast. The bark on this tree is fully two
inches in thickness, and the bast obtained from it is of a very fine,
lace-like texture. The fibre is prepared by a very simple steeping
process. From Sterculia diver sifolia, the Victorian bottle-tree, a bast
is obtained in large quantities, somewhat similar to the preceding, but
coarser and darker in color. It is prepared in the same manner, as
is also the fibre obtained from the bark of Sterculia lucida, a tree very
much resembling the first named. The fibre from all of these barks
is a good paper material. From the Queensland bottle-tree, Sterculia
rupestris, a strong fibre is obtained suitable for paper-making. Another
of the same family, Commersonia Fraseri, tie-plant, a tall-growing
shrub, produces a bark that is extensively used by the settlers as a
tying material. The fibre is fine, and can be obtained in large quan-
tities. Sterculia fcetida, also a native of the Indian and Malayan penin-
sulas, produces a good, strong fibre. In addition to the native fibres
belonging to this family was an African one naturalized, Dombeya
Natalensis, which produces a fibre suitable for paper-manufacture.

Of the order Gramineae the three following specimens were ex-
hibited : EJirharta tenacissima, a wiry grass found growing on the
uplands in large quantities, and furnishing material suitable for pack-
ing- and writing-paper; Poa australis, a rigid, erect-growing grass,

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE yUDGES OF GROUP XIIL 43

found principally near streams and in marshy places, and producing
a good, strong fibre ; and the Arundo conspicua^ the Phune grass of
New Zealand, from the leaves and stalks of which a good paper
material is obtained. Paper also was exhibited made from these
grasses.

From stems of plants of the order Juncagineae, locally called rushes,
four specimens were exhibited. Isolepus nodosa, a rush growing
plentifully on river-banks and in marshy places ; yuncus maritimus,
the sea-coast rush, as its name indicates, found along the sea-coast and
in salt-marshes ; yuncus vaginatus, small-sheathed rush, and a larger
variety of the same plant found along water- courses. All yield good
paper material, particularly the last named, from which a large per-
centage of fibre is obtained.

Belonging to the order Liliaceae, only two native fibres were ex-
hibited. Dianella latifolia grows along the banks of creeks. In
favorable situations its leaves, from which the fibre is obtained, grow
to a length of six feet. Its growth is abundant and the yield of fibre
large. Dianella longifolia somewhat resembles the former, but cannot
be obtained in sufficient quantities to make its use profitable. Of
naturalized fibres of this order were three varieties of Yucca from
America, all noticeable for their strength. From the leaves of the
famous dragon-tree of Tenerifie, Draccena Draco, a strong, flexible
fibre was exhibited, but as this tree grows very slowly, the fibre is not
of practical use. This tree is remarkable for its prodigious longevity
and immense size. The dragon-tree of Orotava is supposed, to be
the oldest plant on the globe, and its trunk is so large that ten men
holding hands can scarcely reach around it. But the most valuable
fibre plant of this order is Phormium tenax, or New Zealand flax,
which very much resembles in appearance the Yuccas of America.
This plant, as its name indicates, is a native of New Zealand, but its
cultivation has been successfully introduced into Australia and a few
other countries. Like; its American relatives, the Yuccas already
mentioned, it seems to flourish in almost any kind of soil, sandy,
swampy, or rocky. Although not immediately productive, an almost
unlimited supply of fibre can be obtained after a few years. A good
paper material is obtained from it by a very simple process, but to
obtain the finer fibres uninjured a more complicated process is neces-
sary. The fibre is very strong, and produces a paper noticeable for
its whiteness. This fibre is yearly coming into more general use for
paper-making and textile purposes.

From the order Amaryllideae three specimens were exhibited, —
two from America, Agave Americana and Fourcroya gigantca. The

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44 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

third, Doryanthes excelsa, spear lily, is a native of East Australia, and
somewhat resembles the last-mentioned plant. Its leaves are one
mass of strong fibre, which furnishes a good paper material.

In addition to these were specimens belonging to various orders,
nearly all the plants being natives of Australia. From the native
bulrush, Typha angustifolia, an abundant supply of material is ob-
tained suitable for packing-paper, and apparently capable under favor-
able treatment of being made into the finer grades of paper. Fibre
from the Jaggery palm, Caryota urens, which grows on the northeast
coast of Australia, as well as in India, and also from Pandanus utilis,
or screw pine. Paper from yuncus paucifiorus^vthich yields pulp suit-
able for fine paper, and also from a species of swamp moss. This
latter material can be had in enormous quantities, as it completely
covers the surface of the lagoons, and is easily gathered. It furnishes
material from which a strong packing-paper is made. From Xerotes
longifolia, the tussock grass of the colonists, a good packing-paper
IS also made. This grass grows abundantly, attains considerable
length, and furnishes a large percentage of fibre. From the bark of
Pimelia axiflora^ the Currijong of the natives, were specimens of both
fibre and paper. This plant is peculiar to extra-tropical Australia,
and grows abundantly as underwood in the forests. It has a smooth,
brown bark, very tough, and yielding a large amount of fibre suitable
for paper of fine quality. Allied to this, but a native of South Africa,
is Dais cotinifolia, from which also a specimen of paper was shown.
The bark yields a good paper material of fine texture and white color.
The plants of this order, Thymeleae, all possess tenacious fibres. Of
fibres naturalized from New Zealand were specimens of paper from
Pitiosporum crassifolium, and fibre from the leaves of a species of astelia.
There were also fibres from two or three other naturalized plants,
among which may be specially mentioned those prepared from the
bark of Sparmariia Africana, This fibre is of a fine silky texture and a
beautiful silvery-white color. It is very easily prepared and suitable
for textile fabrics, and hence indirectly available for paper stock. The
plant produces two crops of canes a year, and they yield a large
proportion of fibre.

In addition to the fibres exhibited from Victoria, there were also
some from Queensland and New South Wales, but as they very much
resembled those already mentioned, it is not necessary to give a further
description of them.

In the Netherlands exhibit was quite a good display of fibres from
their East Indian possessions, the most of them from the Botanical
Museum at Biutenzorg, in the island of Java. These included dif-

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIIL 45

ferent varieties of the Musae, Malvaceae, Urticeae, Tiliaceae, Sterculia-
ceae, and others, all of which have been so fully described in the
Indian and Australian exhibits that they do not need further mention
here. These islands, like all this part of the world, are rich in fibrous
plants, that need only to be known and properly treated to be valuable
as textile materials.

The exhibit of fibres from China and Japan was small, both in
number and variety. From China were several specimens of China
grass and hemp, coir obtained from the outer covering of the cocoa-
nut, and one specimen of pineapple hemp. The Japanese exhibit
contained only specimens of jute, musa, and China grass, and two
other varieties of nettle.

Spain exhibited several fibres, two of which, although well known,
are worthy of especial mention. One, esparto grass, is a native of
Spain; the other, Musa textilis or Manila hemp, is produced in its de-
pendencies, the Philippine Islands. Rsparto grass, known botanically
as Macrochola tenacissima, belongs to the order Gramineae. It is
found in Spain on all the lands facing and bordering the Mediterra-
nean, where this wild grass or sedge is almost the only plant pro-
duced in the barren soil, but it gradually disappears as the fertile
interior is reached. It has been long used by the natives for the
manufacture of mats, baskets, etc., quite a trade being carried on in
these articles. About fifteen years ago the scarcity of paper material
in England induced paper-manufacturers to make the experiment of
using esparto. As it proved a success, its use as paper stock has
continued ever since, and now large quantities are consumed in Eng-
land, France, and Belgium for this purpose. When used as paper
material almost any quality can be employed, and hence only the
wild grass has been manufactured into paper. Of late years the plant
has been cultivated, which greatly improves it as a textile material ;
and it is now used in the manufacture of dress cloth, for some kinds
of which it is said to be better adapted than cotton or flax. This cul-
tivated esparto is much more valuable than the wild, which latter is
rapidly decreasing in quantity from a careless method of gathering,
and consequently it is yearly becoming less available for paper stock.
A variety known as alfa grass, Ligettm Spartium, is indigenous to
the opposite coast of Africa, but it is inferior in quality to the Spanish
esparto.

The Musa textilis, from which the Manila hemp or Abaca of com-
merce is obtained, is the most valuable of all the musa family for its
fibre-producing properties. In many respects its appearance differs
entirely from other members of the musa family. The fibre is round,

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46 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

silky-looking, and nearly white. It is also very long ; one thread ex-
hibited measured twelve feet eight inches. It is obtained from the
petioles of the leaves, and is of different degrees of fineness, the fibre
from the interior being much finer than the exterior fibre. Unlike
other plants of this family, the Musa textilis is not allowed to blossom,
as the fibre is much weakened in the process. The finer fibres are
used for the manufacture of the most delicate tissues, the coarser for
ropes, cordage, etc. In the manufacture of strong paper this fibre is
one of the best substitutes for linen that has been found. The culti-
vation of the plant has been successfully introduced in some of the
West India islands, and in India and the islands of the Indian Ocean
it is said to grow as well as in its native islands. It is now one of the
leading fibres of commerce, and the plants are cultivated on at least
four hundred of the Philippine Islands. The whole of this Manila
hemp produce is exported, the largest quantity to England, and some
to the United States and Germany. Many samples of this fibre were
on exhibition, not only from the Philippine Islands, but also from
India, Mauritius, West Indies, etc.

There were also exhibited from Spain, fibres of palm, palmetto,
junco, and nea, but the two latter of these have not yet been applied
to paper stock.

In the Portuguese exhibit there was quite a fine display of flax and
hemp, including many varieties in different stages of preparation.
The fibres are too well known to claim attention here. From the
African and Indian possessions of Portugal were several fibres that
are almost unknown to commerce, and others that have been in use
for some time. Among these latter may be mentioned pineapple
filaments from Angola and Mozambique, Africa ; banana fibre from
Angola, where the plants grow spontaneously and in great abundance;
and fibres from the leaves of the Dendem palm-tree from Cape Verd
and Mozambique, Africa, and also from India. Among the plants
that belong principally, if not entirely, to Africa, three may be espe-
cially mentioned. From the ife-tree, Sanseviera Angolensis, a native
of Angola, a fibre is obtained which is used in the manufacture of
cables and ropes. It is prepared very much in the same manner as
flax. This tree belongs to the order Liliaceae of the sub-tribe Alvineae,
which plants principally inhabit South Africa. Another fibre of trop-
ical Africa is Adansonia digitata, baobab, called in Angola, whence the
specimen was sent, imbondiero. This tree is remarkable for its size,
and especially for the enormous thickness of the trunk, " the circum-
ference being sometimes one hundred feet." It was formerly supposed

that this tree grew very slowly and was very long lived, but the con-

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIII. 47

trary is now known to be the fact. The fibre is obtained from the
bark, is very strong, and is used for the manufacture of rope and also
of coarse cloths, from which bags are made. From a plant of the
order Asclepiadaceae, called by the natives mundono, fibre is obtained
that is used in Angola for the manufacture of a cloth which is a substi-
tute for linen. From another plant, quiboca, a native of Angola, a
fibre is obtained that very much resembles flax fibre in appearance.
This plant frequently attains a height of over nine feet The fibre
is used for the manufacture of cloth and other articles. There were
also several other fibres from Angola, among which those obtained
from the following plants are worthy of mention : white and yellow
quibori, quizunzo, quifuche, quifinei, and diolo. There were also quite
a number from the Portuguese Indian possessions.

The exhibit of fibre in the British section was very large and com-
plete, including as it did both East and West Indies and Australia,
of which mention has already been made. Also included in this
section was the exhibit of fibres from the Botanical Gardens in the
island of Mauritius. The specimens numbered about fifty, and many
of them well deserved mention. The specimens belonging to the
musa family were more numerous than those of any other, and con-
sisted of nine varieties. Some of these have already been described
in other exhibits, as the musa textiles, Musa paradisiaca, and others;
but Strelitzia regina^ Heliconia gigantcea, and Urania (Ravenala) Mada-
gascariensis, are new. Strelitzia regina is a native of South Africa,
and Heliconia gigantcea of tropical America. Ravenala Madagas-
cariensis is said to be the finest species of this family. Its popular
name of travelers' tree is due to the reservoir of the leaf-sheaths, in
which a limpid and fresh water collects, which may be obtained by
pressing the base of the petiole. The pulpy aril of the seed, remark-
able for its magnificent blue color, yields an abundant volatile oil.
Like all of this family, the petioles of the leaves of these plants are
formed of very tenacious fibres. ,

From the order Sterculiaceae, in which so many of the Australian
fibre plants were included, were several species, of which the follow-
ing may be especially mentioned. Theobroma cacao is peculiar to
America, but is cultivated in Asia and Africa. It is especially valuable
for its seeds, from which are obtained a fixed and solid oil, called
cacao butter, and other valuable products. There were also fibres
from Pterospermnm acerifolium, Guazuma ulmifolia, and Melochia
liliacefolia^ the last named belonging to South Africa.

Of palm fibres there were specimens from Liinstona manritiana,
Latania aurea, Sagus rnffia, and Sagiis saccherifera, the last two famil-

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48 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

iarly known as sago palms. There were four specimens of the genus
Sanseviera, order Lihaceae, 5. zebrina^ S, Zeylanica, S, latifolia^ and
5. cylindrica, all of which abound in extremely fine textile fibres. Of
the order Pandaneae there was only one specimen, Pandanus utilis.
This is somewhat singular, as the number of species of this order in
Mauritius, where they are called vacaos, is a remarkable botanical
feature of the island. Of the genus Fiscus, familiarly known as figs,
there were four samples, all of which produce tenacious fibres similar
to the Urticeae. From the order Arvideae were three specimens,
Colocasia mitiquorum, and two varieties of Caladium. The first named
is a native of India, but from time immemorial has been cultivated
by the Egyptians, and has spread all over the tropics. The varieties
of Colocasia and Caladium are cultivated as ornamental plants for the
size and elegance of the leaves. Of the genus Dracaena were two
varieties, one belonging specially to Mauritius. Of the order Malva-
ceae four varieties, and of Agaves from America three varieties, A.
Americana^ A. Mexicana, and Four&oya gigantea.

Of miscellaneous plants the following may be mentioned : Cordia
myxa, an Asiatic tree cultivated in very ancient times by the Egyp-
tians for its medicinal properties; Alpinia magnifica, a plant which
grows very abundantly in tropical Africa; Ixora corylifolia, of the
order Rubiaceae; and Carludmnca palmata. This last-named plant
belongs to the order Cyclantheae, which grows exclusively in tropical
America. Carludovica flourishes in the damp forests of Ecuador,
Peru, and the United States of Colombia, South America. From the
leaves a much-valued straw is obtained, which is used in the manufac-
ture of Guayaquil or Panama hats. Many of these fibres have never
been used as paper materials, but it would seem that some of them are
worthy of a trial, especially those that are already extensively cultivated
for other purposes. There was also a specimen of the well-known
fibre plant Bcehmeria nivea, and also of a species of mulberry, Morus
tartarica.

One exhibit of paper stock from England proper is deserving of
mention. This was a case from the Ford Works Company, containing
samples of esparto, rice-straw, maize. New Zealand flax, refuse sugar-
cane, and bamboo. The samples were presented in different stages of
preparation, — first in the natural state, then brown stock, then bleached
half stuff", and finally in paper. The samples of paper were all clean
and of good color. Among these samples those of the bamboo were
especially noticeable. This has been used as a paper material for
time out of mind by the Chinese and Japanese, but has never been
utilized to any great extent by European manufacturers. If this

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XTIL 49

Could be done it would furnish an almost unlimited supply of mate-
rial. The Bambusa vulgaris is more generally distributed than any
other variety, being found in abundance in both hemispheres. In
India it grows in such profusion that it frequently forms impenetrable
jungles, and in South America and the West Indies its cultivation
has been successfully introduced. It is said that there are over
one hundred and seventy varieties of bamboo, many of them famil-
iarly known as canes, and wherever heat and moisture exist some
species is generally found. In the United States some varieties are
found in great abundance in what are locally known as cane-brakes,
which are most frequent in the Southern States along river-banks and
in swampy ground. Pulp manufactured from these canes has been
in use for several years, three separate companies having been formed
specially for its manufacture.

In the Belgian exhibit was a case of assorted paper stock sent by
John Pfeffer. This consisted of eighty-four different grades, ranging
from the finest white linen rags to samples of waste made up of old
iron, broken glass, and old shoes. This exhibit showed a very good
classification of paper stock. The exhibitor also claims that he is
able to disinfect the stock by means of chemicals, so as to prevent
any smell or danger from contagious diseases.

THE PAPER EXHIBITS.

It is to be regretted that the display of paper from the United
States was not more complete. But very few of the numerous and
extensive mills of the country were represented, and these were
almost all Eastern establishments. This shows a very reprehensible
indifference on the part of our manufacturers in regard to their present
reputation and future business interest. However, the display, though
small in quantity, was excellent in quality ; in fact, the superiority of
the leading exhibits was so marked that it seemed to leave nothing
to be desired, and the excellence was so uniform that it is almost
impossible to make any comparative report on standard American
papers.

The exhibit of bond, ledger, and blank-book papers, of superfine
linen for note-, letter-, and cap-papers, some of the latter in many tints,
was superb, and not equaled by similar exhibits from other countries.
The chromo, steel-plate, wood-cut, and book papers exhibited were
very fine, and all that could be desired. The amount of blotting-
paper displayed was small, but the quality was of the highest order.
Of news-paper proper there was no exhibit, which is especially to be
regretted, as the United States is a very Jarge producer and consumer

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JO INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

of this grade of paper. Likewise, there was no exhibit of Manila
paper proper, but the two or three exhibits of building-paper made
from Manila stock were very good. Wrapping-paper was scarcely-
represented at all, and the display of card-board, Bristol-board, book-
binders* and box-makers' board was very meagre, but of good quality.
The two exhibits of tissue-paper were also of very good quality.
Among the exhibits the following may be especially mentioned :

Porter & Bainbridge, Nnv York, N. V.
A large assortment of card stock of every description, and also a
large variety of papers and envelopes of both foreign and domestic
make.

Rhode Island Card-Board Company, Pawtucket, R, L
A variety of differently colored card-board, which was of good
quality, possessing both hardness and elasticity.

W. O. Davey, Jersey City, N. %
A lot of tar or binders' boards of excellent quality, the only display
of the kind brought to my notice.

Zenas Crane, Jr., Dcdion, Mass,
White and tinted Bristol-boards of very good quality.

The Androscoggin Pulp Company, Portland, Mc,
A good sample of wood-pulp, and also boxes made from the wood-
pulp board. The boxes were not entered for competition, but were
good of the kind.

Case Brothers, South Mancfiester, Conn,
Press-boards, which were hard, strong, and of excellent quality,
with the one exception that they were lumpy. A little more care in
the preparation of the stock would have produced a No. I board.

Mount Holly Paper Company, Mount Holly Springs, Pa,
A small but very creditable display of ruled papers.

Owen Paper Company, Housatonic, Mass,
One of the largest displays of writing-paper in the Exhibition, in-
cluding a large line of their foreign correspondence, fancy rep, and
drawing-paper. The papers were excellent in every point except
sizing, which might have been better.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIII, 51

Parsons Paper Company, Holyoke, Mass.
A good display of colored writing- and envelope-paper, which
looked very well.

Crane Brothers, Westfield, Mass.
Bank-ledger and record paper of excellent quality; also Japanese
paper baskets and paper belting. These baskets are very good of
their kind, and the belting can be used in a dry place. It is cheap
and well made, and probably will do all that is claimed for it.

Megargee Brothers, Philadelphia, Pa,
A good engine-sized paper, second quality, envelope-papers in all
colors and shades, granite cover-papers, plate-papers, and assorted
colored mediums.

Jessup & Moore, Philadelphia, Pa,
A very good line of copper-plate, lithograph, wood-cut, and super-
calendered book-papers, all of which contained wood cellulose or
chemically-prepared wood-pulp. They also exhibited printed samples
of these papers, which looked very fine.

Nashua Card and Glazed Paper Company, Nashua, N, H,
Cut cards, a small lot of card-board stock, in sheets, and four or
five rolls in colored stock. They also sent in a fine line of card-
boards for examination, but as the goods were not on exhibition
they could not be passed upon.

HuRLBUT Paper Company, South Lee, Mass,
Several reams of flat and folded papers, very plain looking but of
good quality.

Whiting Paper Company, Holyoke, Mass,
The finest paper display in the Exhibition. They exhibited about
one hundred and seventy-five different styles of paper, put up in two
hundred different styles of wrappers. Included in their display was
a ream of the largest sheets of animal-sized, loft-dried paper ever
made. It was six by eighteen feet, and from one ream of this paper
five hundred thousand sheets of note-paper could be made.

Joseph Parker, Son, & Co., New Haven, Conn,
About one hundred reams of their Treasury blotting-papers. These
papers were the best of their kind on exhibition. They were tough,

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52 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

possessed the necessary absorbing qualities in a high degree, and were
of the first quality in every respect

Seymour Paper Company, Windsor Locks, Conn.
A large variety of cover and other colored papers, all of good
quality.

Byron Weston, Dalton, Mass,

An elegant exhibit of first-class ledger-paper. There was no better
paper in the Exhibition as to texture, strength, and finish.

Crane & Co., Dalton, Mass.
Bank-note, bond, and parchment papers of excellent quality, strong,
flexible, and well sized.

SouTHWORTH COMPANY, Mittincaque, Mass,

A beautiful display of clean and well-made paper, consisting of
bank-ledger and different kinds of writing-papers. They were the
cleanest and best-woven papers in the Exhibition.

L. L. Brown Paper Company, South Adams, Mass,
A fine exhibit of ledger-papers. They were not as well woven as
some others, though exceedingly well sized.

H. V. Butler, Jr., & Co., Paterson, N, %
A variety of papers, among which their silk copying-paper was
noticed as being very fine. They also exhibited in rolls animal-sized
paper, which enables map publishers and others to use large sheets
of paper without pasting them together.

Tileston & HoLLiNGSWORTH, Boston, Mass,
A fine line of chromo, steel-plate, wood-cut, and calendered plate-
papers, the finest of their kind on exhibition.

Chapin & Gould, Springfield, Mass,, and Carson & Brown Paper
Company, Dalton, Mass,

A creditable display of their lines of goods, but no specialties.

Dennison & Co., Boston, Mass,, and New York, N, Y,

Among other articles, a very fine tissue-paper, called Excelsior
colored tissue.

In addition to these, the Haldeman Paper Company. Lockland, Ohio,
exhibited a large line of roofing-papers ; George P. Tangeman & Co.,
Hamilton, Ohio, four rolls of carpet-paper ; T. Seymour Scott & Bro.,

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XI 11. 53

Philadelphia, carpet- and building-paper ; Joseph Stelwagon & Son,
Philadelphia, roofing- and felt-papers ; James Guie & Sons, Downing-
town, Pennsylvania, exhibited paper-wrappers of excellent quality.

The exhibits from foreign countries were not as full as was desirable.
England was very poorly represented, there being only three exhibits
made. One of these — that of Robert Fletcher & Son — contained the
finest colored tissue in the Exhibition.

The display from France was also small. She excelled, however,
in photograph-papers and cheap engine-sized writing-papers.

The display from Germany consisted chiefly of a low grade of paper
made from wood-pulp, both chemically and mechanically prepared.

The Austrian exhibit was limited in quantity. It contained but one
exhibit of writing-paper; the display of cigarette-paper was very good.

The best display of any foreign nation was that of Spain. Including
a variety of paper, it excelled especially in cigarette-papers.

From Russia there was a good exhibit, especially of writing-paper,
which was strong and well made.

Italy displayed some good samples of hand-made paper. It pos-
sessed strength, but lacked finish, and did not indicate any great
degree of progress.

Sweden displayed the finest lot of wrapping-paper in the Exhibition,
and also some very good samples of wood-pulp, both chemically and
mechanically prepared.

The Mexican exhibit contained some very good paper made from
native fibres. As mentioned above, that made from Agave fibre was
the strongest paper in the Exhibition. Egypt also exhibited specimens
of paper made from native fibres, which were of very fair quality.

The exhibit of papers from both China and Japan was very credit-
able. Their papers, however, are adapted to their own peculiar uses,
and are so different from those of Europe that they can scarcely be
compared with them.

There were also exhibits of paper from some other countries, but
these were not of sufficient superiority to merit particular mention.

In concluding this report I desire to say that I have hardly done
more than to outline the paper and paper-making exhibits, with the
classes of fibres which can be utilized directly or indirectly in the
production of paper. The field is wide and affords much room for
study and investigation, which it is to be hoped will be given to it by
men who are devoted to these interests, and I shall be glad if, in this
review of the exhibits, I have been able to direct more earnest atten-
tion to a subject of so great importance.
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REPORTS ON AWARDS.

GROUP XIII.

I. A. W. Faber, Stein, near Nuremberg, Bavaria, Germany.

LEAD PENCILS, ARTISTS' PENCILS, AND COLORED PENCILS.

Report, — Commended for excellence of quality and workmanship, and uniformity in
the various grades.

3. Schwanhftusser (formerly Orossberger & Kurs), Nuremberg, Germany.

LEAD PENCILS, COLORED AND ARTISTS* PENCILS, AND CRAYONS.

Report, — Commended for the fine quality, beauty of finish, cheapness, and great variety
of both lead and crayon pencils.

3. Poure, Oillot, O'Kelly, & Co., Boulogne-sur-Mer, France.

STEEL PENS AND PEN-HOLDERS.

Report, — Commended for good quality and reasonable prices.

4. Lcroy W. FairchUd & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

GOLD PENS, GOLD PENCIL CASES, AND PEN-HOLDERS.

Report, — Commended for beauty of design, carefulness of finish, and excellence of
workmanship ; with special reference to the cases inlaid with pearl and precious stones.

5. Aikin, Lambert, & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

GOLD PENS, CASES, AND PEN-HOLDERS.

Report, — Commended for solidity of construction, novelty and beauty of design, especi-
ally for the arrangement of the movement in the pencil and pen cases, by which the pencil
is carried forward and the pen retired by one action.

6. Mabie, Todd, & Bard, New York, N. Y., U. S.

GOLD PENS, CASES, PENaLS, AND HOLDERS.

Report. — Commended for general excellence, quality of workmanship, and elegant
designs highly finished.

7. John Foley, New York, N. Y., U. S.

GOLD PENS, PENCIL CASES, AND PEN-HOLDERS.

Report. — Commended for firmness, careful manufacture, and durability, with solidity of
material.

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56 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

8. John Holland, Cincinnati, Ohio, U. S.

GOLD PENS.

Report. — Commended for superior elasticity and general excellence of gold pens, coni-
bixicd with economy.

9« Esterbrook Steel Pen Manufacturing Co., Camden, N. J., U. S.

STEEL PENS.

^^^r*/.— Commended for excelleht and uniform quality, great variety, and low price.

lo. The Joseph Dixon Crucible Co., Jersey City, N. J., U. S.

LEAD PENCILS.
J^^ijr/'.^Commended for the superior quality of pencils from American graphite; their
smoothness, durttbllity, and uniformity in various grades.

II. Eagle Pencil Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

LEAD AND OTHER PENCILS.

Rtp&rt. — Cotnmended for aquarelle pencils as a substitute for water-colors; for cheapness
aad good qualliy of lead pencils.

12. Bender & Phillips, Hoboken, N. J., U. S.

SHEET WAX.

/f^^*— ^Commended for strength and pliability.

13. Daniel M. Somers, Brooklsm, N. Y., U. S.

PEN-HOLDERS.

JF^er/.^Ccjmm ended for novelty in many of the designs, good workmanship, superior
finish and reaM>nable price.

14. Eberhard Faber, New York, N. Y., U. S.

stationers' rubber goods.
^^rA— Commended for the superior quality of the elastic bands, ink-erasers, robber
ip and other vulcanized rubber goods for stationers' use.

15. Geo. F. Hawkes, New York, N. Y., U. S.

gold PEN AND FOUNTAIN HOLDER.

JF/;*W5^.— Commended for ingenuity, and carefulness of construction of the patent fountain
holders.

16. Janentzky & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

ARTISTS' MATERIALS.

Report, — Commended for general excellence of artists' supplies; brilliancy of colois,
judicious sckcuon and adaptation of materials, and carefulness in manufacture.

17. Nicholas MuUer's Sons, New York, N. Y., U. S.

BRONZE INKSTANDS.

Rep&rf. — Commended for novelty and beauty of design and elegant finish.

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GROUP XIIL 57

i8. Q. K. Cooke & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

REVOLVING HAND-STAMP.

Report. — Commended for rapidity of action, neatness of construction, and general
adaptability, of rotary hand-stamps for bankers, railway companies, and commercial houses.

19. Brewer Brothers, New York, N. Y., U. S.

INKSTANDS.

Report. — Commended for originality, utility, and general advantages, of the Euroid
inkstand ; especially adapted for use in the library, the hall, the desk, or the counting-
house; stands very solid, not easily upset; economical; protects ink from atmospheric
action.

20. Wm. A. Amberg, New York, N, Y., U. S.

CABINET LETTER-FILE AND SELF-INDEXING FILES AND BINDERS.

Report. — It is an excellent arrangement for classifying and binding letters and com-
mercial papers, without folding, whereby they may be conveniently referred to without
being indexed or numbered.

21. Geo. W. McGiU, New York, N. Y., U. S,

PAPER FASTENERS.

Report. — Commended for their fitness and convenience for the purposes designed, and
their adaptability to public wants, and for great variety for many purposes.

22. E. W, Woodruff, Washington, D. C, U. S.

FILE HOLDERS.

Report. — ^The file is so constructed that it is capable of holding a variable number of
letters or papers. It is easy of access and convenient for reference. It is also capable of
being changed into any size and placed in a cabinet or upon shelves.

23. H. Pensel & Co. (successor), Ludwigstadt, Bavaria, Germany.

SLATES FOR SCHOOLS AND COUNTING-ROOMS.

Report. — Commended for softness, smoothness, and general finish.

24. G. P. C. Beisbarth Son, Nuremberg, Bavaria, Germany.

PENCILS AND ARTISTS* BRUSHES.

Report. — Commended for superior quality and finish, carefulness of manufacture, and
large and varied assortment.

25. Marcus Ward & Co., London, England.

STATIONERY FOR THE DESK, WRITING-PAPERS, AND ENVELOPES.

Report. — Commended for the general excellence of the articles exhibited.

26. Samuel Darling, Providence, R. I., U. S.

FOUNTAIN INKSTAND WITH PEN-GAUGE DIPPING-CUP.

Report. — This inkstand is made of glass, porcelain, bronze, or other material, in any
desired form, and the ink is contained in an elastic vulcanized rubber fountain, the amount
of ink in the dipping-cup being regulated by a thumb-screw. As there is never any air in
the ink reservoir, the ink is not liable to thicken, but is at all times fresh. This inkstJ»nd
has been used by the committee, and has given great satisfaction.

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27. The Hart, Bliven, & Mead Manufacturing Co., New York, N. Y., and Ken-

sington. Conn., U. S.

STATIONERY HARDWARE.
Report, — Commended for good quality, beauty of design, and fine finish. The ink-
stands, pen-racks, and paper-files are cheap, being of imitation bronze.

e8. William L3rons, Manchester, England.

SEALING WAX.

Report. — Conunended for superior quality, purity, hardness in hot climate, and freedom
from blister when exposed to the sun.

29. Parkhurst & Gridley, Newark, N. J., U. S.

GENERAL SHAWL AND BOOK STRAP.
Report. — An entirely new article, that wholly dispenses with the use of buckles and
Tack straps, by the use of studs and protecting caps.

30. Alexander Pirie & Sons, Aberdeen, Scotland.

PAPERS.

Report. — ^The writing, enameled, rep, and other fancy papers of this celebrated house
it re very handsome in appearance, and are well sized.
The colors are exceptionally fine, and are not excelled by any in the Exhibition.

31. Samuel Raynor & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

ENVELOPES OF EVERY VARIETY OF QUAUTY, FORM, AND SHAPE.

Report. — Commended for the greatest variety of envelopes in quality, form, and shape,
more than twelve hundred different sorts being manufactured by the exhibitors ; produced
frttin paper manufactured from jute, rope, manilla, wood, rag, linen ; also parchment, and
cloth lined. All well made and well gummed.

32. Joseph Parker, Son, & Co., New Haven, Conn., U. S.

"commercial" and "treasury" BLOTTING-PAPER.

Report. — This exhibit contains blotting-paper of two qualities, " commercial" and "treas-
ury," white and of various colors, and df various thicknesses from light to the heaviest
manufactured. The " treasury" grade, in cleanliness or freedom from fibre-dust, in tough-
ness, in pliability, and in absorbent quality, surpasses all other blotting-paper brought to
our notice in the Exhibition. The colors are varied and excellent, the absorbent capacity
extraordinary and conducive to economy in use.

33. Byron Weston, Dalton, Mass., U. S.

LEDGER AND RECORD PAPERS.

Report. — ^This exhibit of pearl and white, vellum and laid, ledger and record papers, is
one of remarkable excellence. The colors are excellent, the assorting careful* the 1
Tong and tough, and the paper thoroughly sized. The finish is all that can be desired.

34. Southworth Co., Mittincagne, Mass., U. S.

PAPER.

Report. — This exhibit contaiat ledger, letter, and various writing papers, all of the best
quality in every respect, aad remarkably free from imperfection of any kind ; all of which
^how great skill and care in manufacturing.

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35. Crane & Co., Dalton, Mass., U. S.

PAPER.
Report, — This exhibit contains bank-note, bond, and parchment papers. The bond
papers are strong, flexible, and well sized. The bank-note paper, being the only exhibit
made by a manufacturer and claimed to be for bank-note purposes, cannot be reported on
as regards comparative merits. It is, however, entitled to a premium for its intrinsic merits,
which are all that are required in a genuine bank-note paper.

36. Crane Brothers, Westfield, Mass., U. S.

PAPER.

Report, — This exhibit contains ledger, flat cap, and letter papers, all of which are thor-
oughly sized and of sufficient strength. Their other qualities are excellent.

37. Whiting Paper Co., Holyoke, Mass., U. S.

LEDGER AND FANCY AND COLORED WRITING PAPERS.

Report. — The ledger papers are of unusual length and strength of fibre, insuring tough-
ness ; they are strongly sized and of even finish and good color. The colored and fancy
marked papers are of handsome colors, delicate tints, and tasteful designs and finish. The
whole exhibit, in its fullness and variety, shows a thorough knowledge of the details apper-
taining to paper-making and the public wants of that character.

38. Megargee Brothers, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

PLATE, ENVELOPE, WRITING, AND COLORED PAPERS.

Report. — This exhibit is notable and meritorious mainly for the variety and excellence
of the colors and qualities of its medium and cheaper grades of paper. The granite papers
especially are remarkable for their variety and beauty. The books and printed specimens
submitted, showing the adaptability of the papers of this exhibit to the purposes for which
they were intended, are entirely satisfactory.

39. L. L. Brown Paper Co., South Adams, Mass., U. S.

PAPER.

Report. — ^This exhibit contains bond, ledger, and bank-folio papers, both wove and laid.
The bond is good and well sized. The other papers are all remarkable for good qualities ;
the ledger papers possessing unusual strength and beauty, and a sizing that resists the
severest tests of erasure and re-writing.

40. Munich-Dauchau Machine Paper Co., Munich, Germany.

PAPER.

Report. — A very extensive exhibit of almost every needed variety of paper, at very low
prices.

41. J. H. Munktell, Oiycksbo, Falun, Sweden.

PAPER.
Report. — This exhibit contains good writing paper, and excellent drawing and ledger
papers which appear to be of the best quality.

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42. M. Mayer, Coblentz, Germany.

ENVELOPES.

Report, — The envelopes in this exhibit are of good material and excellent workmanship,
and are presented in a great variety of styles, adapted both to general and special purposes.

43. Juan Romani & Purgdengolas, Capellades, Barcelona, Spain.

PAPER.
Report. — This is an exhibit of hand-made papers, containing light and heavy cap and
letter and record paper. All of these are remarkable for good color, strength, and sizing,
and are amongst the best papers of the kind brought to our notice in the Exhibition.

44. Hurlbut Paper Co., South Lee, Mass., U. S.

FINE PAPER.
Report. — This exhibit contains writing and blank-book papers and cardboard, all
excellent, of good color and finish, strong, and well sized. These qualities denote superior
knowledge and skill in manufacture.

45. Blanchet Brothers & Kleber, Paris, France.

PHOTOGRAPHIC AND WRITING PAPER.

Report, — This exhibit contains, as a specialty, photographic paper, which is of the best
quality, and free, to all appearances, from metallic and other imperfections, the freedom
from which is essential to good photographic paper. Many paper manufacturers have
failed in their photographic paper on account of the difficulty of avoiding such imperfec-
tions, and the overcoming of this difficulty is evidence of science, skill, and care. There
is shown, also, engine-sized writing paper of very superior quality.

46. Eichmann & Co., Amau-on-the-Elbe, Austria.

PAPER.

Report. — This exhibit comprises letter, note, drawing, fancy colored, card, cover, and a
variety of other papers. The variety is very great, and all the papers are uniformly good.

47. John Epstein, Soczewka, Warsaw, Russia.

PAPER.

Report. — ^Writing, plate, and blotting paper, each of excellent quality of its kind.

48. Mirskowski Paper Mill Co., Wieruszew, Caliaz, Russia.

PAPER.

Report. — A large variety of papers, including book, writing, and cigarette paper, all
attesting the ability of the establishment to meet the public wants.

49. Vargoonin Brothers, St. Petersburg, Russia.

PAPER.

Report. — ^This exhibit contains a large variety of papers, the chief of which are drawing,
cap writing, letter, note, white and cream tinted book, plate, and cigarette. The papers
are very good, of good colors, and well sized, and are remarkable for the excellence of the
«tock of which they are composed,

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50. Capdevila ft Co., Barcelona, Spain.

PAPER.
Report,'—T)xi& exhibit contains letter, note, folio, ledger, cardboard, and cigarette papers.
These are all of good color, strength, sizing, and finish ; and the exhibit, as a whole, is
exceptionally good.

51. Cristobal Vila & Son, Capellades, Barcelona, Spain.

PAPER.

Report, — ^This is an exhibit of cigarette paper, and contains specimens variously flavored,
as with balsam, liquorice, water-cresses, etc. The natural aroma and flavor of these are
very perfectly preserved.

52. Blanes Brothers, Alcoy, Alicante, Spain.

PAPER.

Report, — ^This exhibit contains cigarette paper, part apparently of pure linen stock, and
part of linen and straw mixed. Both styles are excellent.

53. Jos6 Mora Gavarro, Bocairente, Valencia, Spain.

PAPER.

Report, — ^Thcre are three grades of cigarette paper, all exceptionally good.

54. Rafael Comas Delgado, Onteniente, Valencia, Spain.

PAPER.

Report. — This exhibit contains a large variety of cigarette papers, all of which are light,
strong, and apparently pure. The exhibit is exceptionally good.

55. Widow and Son of Ferrer, Alcoy, Alicante, Spain.

PAPER.

Report, — ^There are three grades of cigarette paper, all excellent. They are light, strong,
and apparently pure.

56. Pedro Rius ft Co., Barcelona, Spain.

PAPER.

Report, — ^This is an exhibit of cigarette paper, remarkable for strength. The other
qualities are very ^ood.

57. Robert Fletcher & Son, Kersley Paper Works, Stoneclough, near Manchester,

England.

WHITE AND COLORED AND TISSUE PAPER.

Report, — This exhibit of colored tissue and silvered papers is truly admirable and sur-
passes any other of its kind in the Exhibition. The paper is good, and the colors fine,
varied, and remarkably well graduated. The tasteful arrangement of this display challenges
the visitor's admiration.

58. Charles J. Cohen, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

OILED PAPER, AND PORCUPINE QUILLS.

Report, — Commended for excellence of the quality, careful manufacture, and economy
of oiled paper for copying-presses. Careful selection and preparation of the porcupine
quills.

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62 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

59. Benfleld, Brecker, & Co., City of Mexico, Mexico.

PAPER.

Report, — ^An exceedingly tough and strong paper, retaining in a most remarkable degree
the original strength of the fibrous material from which it is made.

60. Ostersetzer Brothers, Vienna, Austria.

LACE PAPER.

Report, — Bouquet-holders of lace paper, tastefully arranged and well adapted for the
purpose intended.

61. Imperial Maritime Customs, China.

PITH PAPER.
Riptsrt. — This is the only exhibit found of pith paper for fine artistic work. It is per-
fectly clear and even in thickness, and is perfect of its kind

62. National Museum of Egypt, Cairo, Egypt.

WRITING AND PRINTING PAPER.

Rtpert. — The manufacture of machine-made paper is new in Egypt, and denotes material
progress among the Egyptians. The National Museum exhibits paper of natural color
made from banana leaves, and also a fair paper made from "halfa," a species of swamp
rttsh. These are both new raw materials in actual paper manufacture, and reported to us
iis cheaper than rags as paper stock. The writing papers exhibited are of con^mon quality,
but are well manufactured. I think the National Museum entitled to an award for an excel-
lent beginning in paper manufacture in Egypt.

63. Ivanhoe Manufacturing Co., Paterson, N. J., U. S.

PAPER.

Rep^t, — ^This exhibit contains thin super-calendered book paper, both white and toned ;
while and colored folios, known as French folios; and copying paper. The thin book
papers are among the best on exhibition ; the French folios remarkable for all the desirable
qimlitlcs in such papers, viz., beauty, finish, strength, and good sizing; and the copying
pfiper, of remarkably good color and finish, being the best white paper of its kind exhibited

64. Seymour Paper Co., Windsor Locks, Conn., U. S.

PAPER.

Report. — This exhibit contains colored cover-paper of three different grades, each excel
lent jti its degree ; blotting paper of good quality ; granite and marble papers remarkably
sIroniE: and well finished ; and book and chromo paj^rs well adapted to fine printing with
type aiid cuts. The books and printed specimens presented afford good evidence of the
cxceHence of the papers. An award is merited for the general excellence of the exhibit.

65. Tileston & HoUingsworth, Boston, Mass., U. S.

PLATE AND CHROMO PAPER.

Ptpert. — This exhibit contains steel-plate, chromo, and wood-cut papers, calendered and
^ijptT- calendered. Even the thickest of these, which are the most difficult to manufacture,
kavc nothing to be desired. It is but just to say of the entire exhibit that it is exceptionally
superior in every respect.

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GROUP XIII, 63

66. Jessup & Moore, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

PAPER.
Report. — This exhibit comprises copper-plate, lithograph, atlas, book, and news papers ;
also specimens of chemically prepared wood pulp. The latter is the best prepared, the
most free from all that is not pure cellulose, and the most valuable article of its kind on
exhibition. The super-calendered book papers, comprising several beautifully tinted and
unlike any other exhibited, are much to be admired. The copper-plate, lithograph, and ^.ilas
papers are proved to be excellent by the books and specimens submitted for examination.
The first quality of super-calendered white book paper is very meritorious.

67. Joint Stock Co. of I. R. Chartered Paper Manufoctory, SchldglmtUil, Vienna,

Austria.

PAPER.
Report. — It is a roll of newspaper reeled for a perfecting press. The paper is remark-
ably well sized, is hard, of good quality, and is admirably Well reeled for good press
work.

68. Fialkowski Brothers & Twerdy, Bielits, Austria.

PAPER.

Report. — ^This exhibit is of ordinary printing and cover papers, and is remarkable for the
great variety and excellence of its colors.

The prices attached are low for the grades of paper.

69. Jas. Ouie & Sons, Downingtown, Pa., U. S.

PAPER WRAPPERS.
Report. — This exhibit is of large and heavy wrappers for paper-makers' use. The
wrappers are made of excellent stock, long, strong, and pliable, and are admirably
adapted to the purpose for which they are intended.

70. John Pfeffer & Co., Ghent, Belgium.

PAPER STOCK.

Report. — G>mmended for a system of grading and classification of rags for paper stock.

71. Canada Paper Co., Montreal, Canada.

PAPER.

Report. — ^This is an exhibit of printing, envelope, blotting, and wrapping papers ; all of
good quality in their respective classes.

72. Sundry Provinces of Japan.

PAPERS.

Report. — This exhibit is of great interest, as it presents a number and variety of papers
not commonly known, many of which have remarkable intrinsic merit. Among these are —

1st. A paper imitation of grained morocco. This is a true imitation, being scarcely dis-
tinguishable from the genuine morocco. It is varnished in the most superior manner,
equally well grained, flexible as morocco, and nearly as strong. The fibre is very strong
and lengthy, and is described as being of the inner mulberry bark.

2d. Wall papers of various designs, some of which are faced with mica to afford luslre.
This description of paper has been long used in Japan.

3d. Carpet paper, oiled and gilt to imitate leather flooring. These are remarkable for

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64 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

strength, quality, design, and excellence of workmanship, and promise to be very service-
able. Transparent papers of great excellence, some of which are imitation of tortoise-
shell.

4th. "Writing papers to be written on with the usual Japanese brush, as this is universally
employed instead of the pen.

5th. A variety of gilt and fancy papers, plain and embossed, all showing taste and care.

6th. Paper handkerchiefs and napkins, designed to be once used and discarded; they
are soft and pleasant to feel, and seem adapted to answer well their purposes.

7th. Book paper for printing.

The whole exhibit is certainly very meritorious, and worthy of a complete description,
such as would be too lengthy for this paper of recommendation.

73. Owen Paper Co., Housatonic, Mass., U. S.

PAPER.

Report, — This exhibit comprises ledger, bond, exchange cap, policy, letter, and tinted
papers, and is one of remarkable beauty and variety ; its series of tinted writing papers
being the richest in variety in the Exhibition. The parchment letter paper and exchange
cap are very superior and well sized, and the papers generally need but a little stronger
sizing to make them in all respects equal to any exhibited.

74. A. Reed & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

ORNAMENTAL BOOK-BINDING.

Report.— Axi exhibit of beautifully bound books, in a great variety of styles, all at
reasonable prices.

75. I. R. Beckett & R. Cervi, Cambridge, Mass., U. S.

BOOK-BINDING.

Report. — This is a unique and altogether praiseworthy exhibit, being the work of two
journeymen, done out of working hours. The binding is all exquisite, and evinces not
only a desire to improve on the part of the exhibitors, but an ability to originate and com-
plete designs without outside aid. The exhibit furnishes an example worthy of imitation
by workmen, of encouragement by employers, and of hearty recognition by the Centennial
Commission.

76. Oldach St Mergenthaler, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

BOOK-BINDING.

/Report. — Commended for book-binding of general uniform excellence, at a moderate
price.

77. Gustav Fritzsche, Leipsic, Germany.

BOOK-BINDING.

Report. — In relation to the purposes intended, good quality combined with econou-y.

78. Geo. W. Martin, Topeka, Kansas, U. S.

BOOK-BINDING, SPECIMEN OF RULING AND BINDING,

/Report. — A seven-quire medium book, prepared for show. The cut is tastefully printed,
and binding and ruling faultless.

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GROUP XIIL 6S

79. American Baptist Publication Society, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

BOOK-BINDING.

Report. — A large display of books in elegant bindings of the richest material, crushed
levant, pearl, inlaid, velvet, etc.

The juvenile books are specially commendable for their durable cloth binding, general
excellence of printing, and moderate cost.

80. D. Appleton & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., and New York, N. Y., U. S.

BOOK-BINDING.

Report. — G)mmended for the general excellence and elegance of the entire exhibit,
which is the product of their own printing-office and bindery. The progress in the art of
book -making is well illustrated in this exhibit by comparing the first book issued by the
founder of this house in 1831 (a copy being shown) with the splendid exhibition now made
of the educated taste and skill of the printer and binder, in the display of superbly printed
illustrated books in crushed levant, vellum, and other fine bindings.

The school books in half vellum and the scientific books in superior style are a marked
feature in this exhibit.

81. American Tract Society, New York, N. Y., U. S.

BOOK-BINDING.

Report. — ^The specialty of this exhibit is the display of Bibles in flexible backs, which
are the best brought to our notice in the Exhibition.

The leather used is of American manufacture, and is remarkable for its resistance to
tensile force exerted to tear or crack it. •

82. WUliam Mann, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

COPYING PAPER AND BLANK BOOKS.

Report. — The copying paper is of an exceedingly sensitive and impressible nature,
capable of receiving and retaining fifteen distinct copies of one written original, and the
blank books are of first-class excellence in every respect.

83. W. W. Harding, PhUadelphia, Pa., U. S.

BIBLES AND ALBUMS — PAPER-MAKING, PRINTING, AND BOOK-BINDING.

Report. — The Bibles shown in this exhibit are the product of the paper mill, printing-
office, and book-bindery of the exhibitor, and the work in each department b first-class of
its kind, and the prices reasonable. The photograph albums, with a so-called " chain
back," are a notable feature of this exhibit.

84. Ignatius Kohler, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

BOOK-BINDING.

Report. — Remarkable specimens of hand-tooled book-binders* work.

85. J. B. Lippincott & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

BOOK-BINDING AND PRINTING.

Report. — This exhibit is remarkable for its wide range in book-making, apparently
covering the entire field, including blank books of great merit, school, law, medical, theo-
logical, and miscellaneous books, furnishing examples of almost every desirable style of
printing and binding, and showing in both the typography and binding great fertility in
designing and consummate art in the execution of printers' and binders* work.

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86. Wm. P. Murphy's Sons, PhiUdelphia, Pa., U. S.

BLANK BOOKS.
Rtpert. — It is evident that the most careful attention is paid to the minutest detail in the
work shown in this exhibit, resulting in the highest degree of excellence, while the prices
Jirc moderate, thereby appreciating and meeting the demands of the public.

S7. H. O. Houghton & Co., Riverside Press, Cambridge, Mass., U. S.

BOOK-BINDING AND PRINTING.

Rip9ti. — Commended for an exceedingly rich and varied display of elegantly printed
iiiTil iKJiind books. In every style good lOKte predominates; and in the illuminated vellum
huoka book-binding and decorating are elevated from a trade to a place among the fine arts.

88. Leusinger ft Sons, Rio de Janeiro, Braxil.

ULAKK BOOKS, ALBUMS, PRINTED AND BOUND BOOKS, AND COMMERCIAL PRINTING.
fffp&rt. — A good variety of well printed and bound books, showing an educated famili-
^iiity with the details of book-making in all its branches.

89. J. Seckler, San Paulo, Brazil.

BLANK BOOKS AND PRINTING.

Report, — "Well-executed work and admirably suited to the public wants.

90. Francis ft Loutrel, New York, N. Y., U. S.

BLANK BOOKS.
Report. — Commended for well-made substantial blank books, with improved moulded
Imuks.

91. Moss ft Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

BLANK BOOKS AND BOOK-BINDING.

Report. — Blank books, of both plain and more elaborate style of manufacture ; all well
ijfine and at a moderate cost. Printed books in a variety of elegant bindings.

92. Sanford ft Co., Cleveland, Ohio, U. S.

BLANK BOOKS.
Rept^rt. — The books in this exhibit show the greatest skill and care in ruling, being the
iiiost perfect specimens of fancy ruling brought to our notice. The binding is elaborate
arid substantial.

93. Thomas Richards, Sydney, New South Wales, Australia.

BLANK BOOKS — BOOK-BINDING AND PRINTING.

R^p^rt. — The entire work is of a creditable and praiseworthy character.

94. John D. Mets, Dubuque, Iowa, U. S.

BLANK BOOKS, WITH PATENT ENDS AND SIDES.

Rtp&rt. — Admirably made book, aside from the patent improvement as claimed.

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GROUP XIII.

95. Scribner, Armstrong, ft Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

BOOKS.
Report, — All the leading styles of the best classes of book-making are here represented ;
and the elegance of the typography of such books as " Bryant's History'* and " The Myths
of the Rhine" places this exhibit among the most praiseworthy in the Exhibition.

96. Porter ft Coates, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

BOOKS.

Report. — Commended for the originality of design in styles of binding ; the great beaaty
of the printing of the illustrated books ; and the general excellence of the mechanical exe-
cution of the entire collection, the binding being specially noteworthy as combining beauty
with durability.

97. Miller's Bible and Publishing House, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

BIBLES.

Report, — Commended as an exhibition of superbly bound Bibles, showing great taste and
skill in the highest styles of the book-binder's art.

98. Allen, Lane, ft Scott, and J. W. Lauderbach, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

AN ILLUSTRATED BOOK, « A CENTURY AFTER."

Report, — ^The engraving and printing of this beautiful book were done in the offices of
the firm, and are first-class in quality, bearing witness to the proficiency of the members
of the firm in the branch of book-making which each represents.

99. J. M. Stoddart ft Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

BOOKS.

Report, — Commended because that, in the combination of steel-plate printing and letter-
press, as shown in the " Gallery of Famous Poets" and the " Gallery of Famous Women,"
books of rare typographical beauty are produced, the printing, binding, and paper being
apparently faultless. Great credit is also due to the publishers for furnishing, in such
handsome styles and at moderate prices, such valuable books as «The Encyclopaedia
Britannica" and Hogarth's works.

100. Pran9ois Vit^, Berlin, Germany.

PHOTOGRAPH ALBUMS.

Report, — Commended for elegant and substantial work at very nK>derate prices.

loi. J. C. Kdnig & Ebhardt, Hanover, Germany.

ACCOUNT BOOKS.

Report, — Well-executed work at cheap prices.

102. Koch, Sons, & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

GUARD BOOKS AND SCRAP BOOKS.

Report, — Commended for improved arrangement in the manufacture of guards for scrap
and other guard books.

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68 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

103. A. J. Holman ft Co., Philadelphia, Pa,, U. S.

BOOK-BINDING OF BIBLES AND ALBUMS.
Report. — This exhibit is especially noteworthy for the beauty and variety of Bibles and
photograph albums displayed. The printing of the Bibles is admirably done, and the
binding of both Bibles and albums is varied with good taste to meet the wants of cus-
tomers ; the prices of all being extremely reasonable.

104. Lindsay & Blakiston, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

BOOKS.
Report, — Commended for an admirably well printed and bound collection of medical
books, which, in style of manufacture and price, are adapted to the wants of the customers
for whom they are designed.

105. The American Bible Society, New York, N. Y., U. S.

BIBLES AND TESTAMENTS.

Report, — This exhibit displays thirteen sizes of Bibles in various bindings, the printing
of all of which is remarkably good, and the prices low, adapting them to the general wants
of the public.

106. G. P. Putnam's Sons, New York, N. Y., U. S.

BOOKS.

Report, — Commended for the taste and skill displayed in books, handsomely printed and
illustrated, and in fine style of binding.

107. Harper Brothers, New York, N. Y., U. S.

BOOKS.
Report. — Commended for the extensive display of books adapted in style and price to
the wants of the public ; the exceptional typographical excellence of many of the illus-
trated books ; the wood-cut printing of the picture papers, and the map printing of the
school geographies.

108. H. Dessain, Malines, Belgium.

BOOKS. ,

Report. — This exhibit is entirely of religious books, many of which display great merit

in styles of type, and combination of type and colored inks.

The best features of antique books of this character are well produced, and the bindings

are tasteful and good.

109. Library Club, Paris, Prance.

BOOKS AND PAPER.
Report. — This is a collective exhibit made by the Library Club, and contains books,
electrotyped and stereotyped plates, a complete set of printers* furniture, and samples of
various styles of papers from several of the principal manufacturers of France, representing
in all nearly fifty producers of books and of the different elements that enter into the com-
pleted book. The club displays a combination of excellent book and plate paper, choice
types, rich illuminations, excellent bindings, and superfine security papers elaborately water-
marked.

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no. The Methodist Book Concern, New York, N. Y., and Cincinnati, Ohio, U. S.

BOOKS.
Report. — A large exhibit of very finely printed and bound books, consisting of Bibles,
hymn books, and religious publications.

III. Netherlands Booksellers' Association, Amsterdam, Netherlands.

BOOKS.

Report. — This is a collective exhibit of books contributed by various book publishers of
*he Netherlands. There is no departure from styles of paper, type, and binding in use
thirty years ago in that country, but the exhibit as a whole is, in regard to those features,
good.

112. Government Exhibits of Eg^ypt.

BOOKS IN MANY LANGUAGES.

Report. — Commended for the general excellence of the typography.

113. Duchet & Co., Paris, Prance.

BOOKS.
Report, — This exhibit is principally of large volumes of illustrated art ; paper excellent
and durable; binding mainly in half calf, simple, strong, and proper; and type, of older
style, clear and according to good taste.

114. Dunod, Paris, Prance.

BOOKS.

Report. — ^The general character of the books is fair, and the paper not fine but good and
strong, and the exhibit contains a few books excellent in all mechanical respects.

115. A. Ballue, Paris, Prance.

BOOKS.

Report. — ^This is an exhibit of large illustrated works in all-leather binding; the plate
paper is both good and strong, and the binding, though plain, is tasteful, strong, and suit-
able for its purpose.

116. Ch. Delagrave, P^ris, Prance.

BOOKS.
Report. — ITiis exhibit is chiefly of educational books, paper generally not fine but
strong and durable, and the type clear; binding plain, durable, and well suited for its
purpose.

117. Librairie Morel, Paris, France.

BOOKS.

Report. — This exhibit of books contains mostly illustrations of art and architecture,
bound in half leather. The paper and type are excellent, and the binding simple, strong,
and in good taste. One very large volume in particular, illustrations of Arabic life and
art, size forty-nine by sixty-two centimetres, is exceptionally meritorious.
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1 1 8. J. Baudiy, Paris, Prance.

BOOKS.
R^purt. — This exhibit is chiefly of large volumes in half calf. The books are of excel-
lent paper^ wdl printed with clear and handsome type, and are tastefully and substantially
bound.

1 19. Alfred Rothe, Caracas, Venezuela.

BLANK BOOKS.

^^;^,— The blank books are made of excellent paper, are admirably well ruled, and
bound in the most substantial manner.

120. P. T. de Aldrey, Caracas, Venezuela.

PRINTED BOOKS.

Rip&rt.—\k^\ selected type and paper, some of the binding quite rich and tasteful, and
generally strongs serviceable, and in good style.

121. G. ft C. Merriam, Springfield, Mass., U. S.

BOOKS.

Report. — Commended for a unique collection of Noah Webster's works, showing the
progress \\\ the art of book-making in this country for a period of three-quarters of a cen
lury as illustraied by the works of one author. The marked advance is shown by com-
jxiring the Wtbbter's dictionary published in 1816 with the elegant quarto edition, in superb
binding and of exceptional typographical elegance, here exhibited.

122. J. R. Osgood & Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

BOOKS.

Rupert. — Ex^^uisite taste in all the details of book-making marks the display in this
exhibitj from ihc " large paper" editions to the tiny miniature volumes of the " vest pocket
series,^* all being among the best of their kind. A notable feature is the display of the works
of American authors, in the highest style of American book-making.

123. Brewer & Tileston, Boston, Mass., U. S.

READING BOOKS.

Rfport.—'\)MC reading books (Hillard's Franklin series) are most beautifully printed ;
the wood- cuts artistic in design ; and the books, in the perfection of their typography and
wood'CUE printing, are well calculated to educate the pupil in matters of taste and art.

124. Mrs. H. G. Miller, Springfield, Mass., U. S.

SAMPLES OF JOB PRINTING.

Rep&fL^S^ meritorious exhibit of job printing, consisting of cards, bill-heads, and
clrcubra*

125. A. Mourns, Alexandria, Egypt.

TYPE FOUNDING, AND PRINTING IN VARIOUS LANGUAGES.

Mipori. — Every item in the exhibit is of the highest degree of excellence in its class.

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GROUP XIII.
126. Lallement Brothers, Lisbon, Portugal.

SPECIMENS OF PRINTING.

Report, — Commended for a fine lot of printing in colors on satin ; also for a quantity of
circulars and bill-heads on paper. Typographical appearance and arrangement very fine.

127. Louis Perrault & Co., Montreal, Quebec, Canada.

COMMERCIAL PRINTING.

Report, — Commended for great variety and good quality of the work exhibited and its
adaptation to public wants.

128. James Beal, Queensland, Australia.

BLANK BOOKS, PRINTING, AND BINDING.

Report, — The blank books are well made, and the printing and binding are in the
highest degree creditable.

129. C. G. Naiiipann, Leipsic, Germany.

COMMERCIAL PRINTING.

Report, — Commended for large variety, adaptability to the purposes intended, and
cheaoness in price.

130. W. Drugulin, Leipsic, Germany.

BOOK PRINTING AND TYPE CASTING.

Report. — Commended for a rich assortment of type in two hundred and twenty-four
difierent languages, and for well-printed books.

131. Ludwig Lott, Vienna, Austria.

CHROMO- XYLOGRAPH IC PRINTING.

Report, — ^Valuable original miniatures of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, belonging
to monasteries in Austria, are here reproduced by color printing from wood engravings in a
most artistic manner. Among graphic artists there are but few who undertake work of
this character; and since this exhibit shows remarkably true and elegant copies of fine
originals, it is well entitled to award.

132. Bradley & Rulofifsen, San Francisco, Cal., U. S.

PHOTOGRAPHS AND DESIGNS.

Report. — Photographs, clear in the design and of delicate modeling. Artistic attitudes
are prominent merits.

133. Sadie Bey, Cairo, Egypt.

PHOTOGRAPHY.

Report. — Commended for a photographic copy of the Koran, in size of 4 by 2^ centi-
metres, with gold margin, taken from a very valuable original belonging to the Khedive
of Egypt. The skill and workmanship shown in the execution are very meritorious.

134. Ousey Efifendi, Cairo, Egypt.

SCHOOL BOOKS, AND BOOKS FOR THE BLIND.

Report, — Commended for the general excellence of the printing in each of the depart-
ments represented.

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135. Lortic, Paris, France.

BOOKS.

Rtporf. — ^ITik exhibit is principally a collection of rare or antique books of great value,
all Off which ore exquisitely bound; commended for the richness and beauty of the bindings.

136. Thos. Kelly, New York, N. Y., U. S.

BOOKS.

JP^or/.^Comtrt ended for an exhibit of Bibles and prayer books well and tastefully
bomid and printed in clear and beautiful type.

137. Louis Dreka, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

INVITATION CARDS AND STATIONERY.

Riftiri. — Commended for tasteful designing and excellent workmanship on steel and
tapper plate, thviLntion and card engraving and printing; also for dictionary or word-book
poTtfoIlo and Mult^r, which is convenient and well adapted for purpose designed.

138. Government Printing-Office, Tokio, Japan.

ENGRAVED COPPER PLATES.

RtpQri. — TbU IS an interesting exhibit of copper-plate engraving by native artisans.
It i$ a new ijulustry in Japan, and the samples exhibited, many of them for notes and
bonds f are exceedingly creditable.

139. Tiffany & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

WEDDING STATIONERY.

Rf^rt, — Commended for tasteful and elegant designs of monograms and superior
eitecotlon in workmanship.

140. W. H. Hoskins, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

ENGRAVED STATIONERY.

ReperK — Commended for designing, engraving, and lithographing of commercial work.

141. Narciso Ramirez, Barcelona, Spain.

PLAYING CARDS.

R^firi. — A pood, cheap, and well-made playing card.

142. Patrocinio Mafifei, Cadiz, Spain.

PLAYING CARDS.

Rgpertt — Commended for cheapness and durability.

143. Fulladosa ft Co., Barcelona, Spain.

PLAYING CARDS.

Rfffiri*— Commended for superiority in their fast colors.

144. Charles Goodall & Son, London. England.

PLAYING AND CHRISTMAS CARDS.

^ir/f?rA^ Commended for a large variety of styles of decoration on the backs of his
cani^^ : all executed in good taste and design.

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145. W. O. Davey & Sons, Jersey City, N. J., U. S.

BINDERS', TRUNK, AND BOX BOARDS.

Report. — These boards are first-class, being hard, smooth, and tough.

146. H. O. D. Cramer, Ootmarsum, Netherlands.

PASTEBOARD.

Report, — The boards are very strong and tough. One sample is three-quarters of an
inch thick, and very hard. They are all cheap and well made.

147. Saint Croix River Mills, Saint Croix, Nova Scotia.

BINDERS' PASTEBOARD.

Report. — Commended for the good quality of binders' board, at a low price.

148. Coromina ft Antiga, San Juan las Fonts, Gerona, Spain.

STRAW BOARDS.

Report, — Commended for a strong and well-made straw board, for book-binders' and
box-makers* use.

149. Segundo de Olea, Cadiz, Spain.

PLAYING CARDS.

Report, — Commended for great variety of styles and designs, and beauty of printing.

150. A. Dougherty, New York, N. Y., U. S.

PLAYING CARDS.

Report. — Commended for strength and superior quality of stock from which they are
made, producing a card not liable to split or thicken ; also for perfection in the workman-
ship, especially in cutting the cards to a uniform and exact size, not obtained by any other
exhibit.

151. Cornell & Shelton, Birmingham, Conn., U. S.

FOLDING PAPER BOXES.

Report. — Strong self-fastening, folding boxes, suitable for packing tacks, screws, rivets,
brass chains, etc.

152. Rhode Island Cardboard Co., Pawtucket, R. I., U. S.

CARDBOARD.

Report, — These boards are of excellent quality, possessing stiffness, elasticity, and finish.

153. Dennison ft Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

JEWELERS' FINDINGS, TAGS, AND SURGICAL COTTON.
Report. — Commended for a fine display of a full and excellent line of jewelers* findings,
such as colored cotton, cards for jewelry, tags, sealing wax, twine, watch-bags, labels, tissue
paper, and boxes. Also for patent shipping tags of superior quality and strength, being so
constructed, with a patented eyelet, that they may be used with security.

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154. Hewlett, Onderdonk, & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

MACHINE-MADE PAPER BAGS.

Report. — Commended for convenient shape, imiformity of manufacture, good workman-
shipi and economy in cost.

155. Jean Baptiste Poissonniez, Brussels, Belgium.

CASES FOR JEWELERS, CONFECTIONERS, AND CARDS OF SAMPLES.

Report. — Commended for a fine line of jewelry and druggists* boxes, glove boxes, India
shawl boxes and confectioners' boxes. They are very tasteful in design and well made.
These goods are very cheap.

256. N. M. Kerr ft Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

WEDDING AND JEWELERS* PAPER BOXES,
Report. — Wedding and jewelers' boxes are the specialties. The boxes indicate per-
fection in cutting and fitting of lids, also in fine workmanship. In combination of colors
and style of printing they display good taste.

157. Bennet Osborn, Newark, N. J., U. S.

PAPER BOXES.

Report: — Commended for originality, utility, fitness for the purposes intended, and adap-
tation Lo public want.

158. Porter & Bainbridgo, New York, N. Y., U. S.

VISITING AND WEDDING CARDS AND PAPETERIES.

Rep&ri. — It is a very large and excellent exhibit of blank, visiting, and wedding cards,
among which are the following varieties : gilt and silver edged, round cornered, black cards,
crystal cards, wooden and silver cards for wedding stationery, ladies' postal cards^ or cards
d*^^ittf, rep cards, and a variety of plaid cards. They are all well made and of good
stuck. There is also a close imitation of hand-made paper for papeterie stationery. It is
a complete exhibit.

159. McNeil, Irving, & Rich, Elwood, N. J., U. S.

BUILDING AND CARPET PAPER.

Report. — This exhibit is mainly of water -proof building paper. It is thoroughly sized to
re&kt the action of water, and appears to be the strongest and most durable of the natural
or un tarred building papers exhibited. It is certainly well adapted to a great variety of
useful purposes.

160. George P. Tangemann & Co., Hamilton, Ohio, U. 8.

ROOFING AND CARPET PAPER.

Rfpurt. — Commended for superior strength in roofing paper; also smoothness, elasticity,
and durability in carpet paper.

161. Barrett, Arnold, (k Kimball, Chicago, 111., U. S.

ORNAMENTAL ALUMINOUS BUILDING PAPER.

Report. — It is designed to supersede in a great measure lathing and plastering of interior
wsiHsjond it enables cheaply built houses to take on a cheap and sightly finish. On account
of Its substantial thickness it promises to be very durable. It is useful and cheap, and
meets a need felt in the community.

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GROUP XIIL 75

162. Munksjo Paper Mills, Jdnkdping, Sweden.

BUILDING PAPER.
Report, — It is of excellent quality, handsomely prepared, and is one of the best exhibits
of the kind shown.

163. Crane Brothers, Westfield, Mass., U. S.

PAPER BASKETS.

Report, — This is an exhibit of paper baskets made from manilla paper. They are light
and water-proof, and well adapted for use in cotton, wool, silk, carpet, and paper mills.

164. E. Waters & Sons, Troy, N. Y., U. S.

PAPER CANS FOR KEROSENE OIL.

Report, — ^This exhibit shows praiseworthy progress in the manufacture of paper utensils
for special and general purposes.

165. French Paper Ware Co., Springfield, N. J., U. S.

PAPER WARE.

Report, — This exhibit contains water-pails, wash-bowls, slop-jars, flower-pots, and spit-
toons made from manilla paper pulp. They are strong, light, tough, and of good finish.

166. Anthony Goth, Bethlehem, Pa., U. S.

OIL-PAINTED WALL PAPER.

Report, — This exhibit contains oil-painted wall and cornice papers, to be used as substi-
tute for hand painting. The oil not striking through, the paper is not made brittle by its
use. The designs are tasteful, the solid colors good, and the paper can be washed.

The exhibit has merit

167. C. A. Kaberg, Stockholm, Sweden.

WALL PAPER.

Report, — ^This exhibit comprises a great variety of designs, and of qualities of paper; the
lowest in price being remarkably cheap, and the highest very rich in design and manu-
facture.

The velvet papers merit special attention.

168. F. H. Frolich & Son, Christiania, Norway.

PAPER HANGINGS AND BORDERS.

Report. — This exhibit comprises an unusually large number of designs, the details of
which are well executed. Commended for the variety of designs, the richness of many of
the papers, and the reasonable prices.

169. Ernesto Lefebvre, Count of Balsorano, Naples, Italy.

WALL PAPER.

Report. — This is one of the most interesting exhibits of decorative paper made, and is
remarkable both for its elegant styles and low prices. Among the articles shown are speci-
mens of very rich velvet paper, of good imitations of the ancient frescoes of Pompeii, and
of sundry artistic designs of pure and classic taste. The entire exhibit has great merit.

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170. Howell ft Brothers, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

DECORATIVE PAPER.

Rep^ri*' — The exhibit made is remarkable for the variety and excellence of its standard,
medium and lower grades of papers, and for the low wholesale prices furnished by the
exhibitors^

171. Howell & Bourke, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

DECORATIVE PAPER.

^^nf.^-The fresco decorative papers of this exhibit are exceptionally good.

172. Westerburg, Jefferson, & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

DECORATIVE PAPER.

Report* — This exhibit is specially notable for the variety and richness of its fresco and
gUt papei^.

173. Frederick Beck & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

PAPER.

Rff^ri. — The exhibit is remarkable for the variety and excellence of its higher grades
of pkiper^t which are amongst the highest and most tasteful produced. Its mica-coated
[fcaper* are a specialty, and deserve high commendation. The prices furnished are very
reasonable.

174. C. Herting, Einbeck, Hanover, Germany.

DECORATIVE PAPER.

Rfpori. — Commended for excellent design and finish, and imitation of lustre of mother
of pearl, Tlie diamond-powder finish is an invention of the exhibitor, and has been brought
to gfdnt perfection in this exhibit.

175. Jeffrey & Co., London, England.

DECORATIVE PAPER.

Rfpffrf.^-Thcy exnioit several specimens of work of art in paper decoration, which dis-
play the highest and purest taste. Such productions deserve special recognition, and tend
to elevate paper as a decorative article.

176. Louis Dejonge & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

FANCY PAPERS AND BOOK-BINDERS* CLOTHS.
^V/<?rA— This exhibit contains many specimens of very superior colored, fancy, silvered,
glared, enameled, and embossed papers, and is among the largest, richest, and best shown.
The Ixjok-biaders' cloths are also numerous and excellent.

177. Alois Dessauer, Aschaffenburg, Germany.

FANCY PAPERS.

Report, — This exhibit of marbled and other fancy papers is of the first order, and con-
lain? EL remarkably rich variety. The imitations of fine marbles are truly admirable, and the
whole exhibit is entitled to the highest praise.

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178. W. Knepper's Nephew, Vienna, Austria.

FANCY PAPER.

Report, — This exhibit of marbled and other fancy papers is of the first order, rich in
variety and admirable in execution.

179. R. T. Hazzard, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

WALL PAPER DECORATIONS.

Report, — ^This exhibit illustrates a system of wall and ceiling decoration, imitating
cheaply, in paper, stencil and fresco painting.

The designs are so arranged and printed that they can be combined, divided, subdivided,
and recombined in a great variety of complex ornaments, and in this manner a few print-
ing blocks can be made to produce as many effects as are ordinarily produced by a great
number. There is decided economy in the system, and the colors and designs are very
good.

180. Leo Haenle, Munich, Germany.

GOLD AND SILVER PAPER.

Report, — This exhibit contains plain and embossed, genuine and imitation gold and
silver, and also tinted papers. These are used principally for covering fine boxes and
mounting fine pictures, and are of the highest quality. One feature of great merit in this
exhibit consists in the extraordinary length of faultless sheets.

181. P. Daye & Co., Schaerbeek, near Brussels, Belgium.

IMITATION OF EMBOSSED LEATHER.

Report. — This exhibit shows in paper board, embossed and colored, beautiful and
accurate imitations of the celebrated old leather hangings of Malines and Cordova. It
revives a taste long lost, and is a valuable contribution to art.

182. Bduard Sieger, Vienna, Austria.

IMITATIONS OF INLAYING ON PAPER.
Report, — The inlaying of ebony with ivory, and inlaying of ivory with ebony, are most
tastefully and artistically imitated. Also the taste and execution in job printing, plain and
fancy, of this exhibit are very superior.

183. R. Kerkhoven, Utrecht, Netherlands.

WOOD AND MARBLE PAINTING.

Report. — It has decidedly superior merit.

184. M. Vsm der Burgh, Schiedam, Netherlands.

IMITATIONS OF MARBLE AND WOOD. •

Report. — They are most excellent imitations, of unusual merit.

185. C. T. P. Rijperman, Velzen, Netherlands.

WOOD PAINTING.

Report, — It has decidedly superior merit.

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1 86. I. P. Dobbe, The Hague, Netherlands.

WOOD AND MARBLR PAINTING.

Report. — It has decidedly superior merit.

187. A. R. ft P. Van der Burgh Brothers, Rotterdam, Netherlands.

IMITATIONS OF MARBLE AND WOOD.

Report. — The imitations of various woods, of inlaying of woods, and of many varieties
of marble, are of extraordinary merit ; and the artistic taste displayed is fully equal to the
execution.

188. John Dickson ft Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

VULCANIZED RUBBER ENGRAVINGS.

Report. — Commended for originality, durability, and cheapness. The designs, which arc
drawn upon ordinary lithographic stones previously covered with asphaltum varnish, do not
require a specially educated artist, but can be made by any one skilled in drawing. The
completed sketch, after being etched with nitric acid, is covered with prepared rubber of
the proper thickness, which is subjected to pressure and vulcanized, an operation requiring
but a few hours, when the plate is ready to be blocked and used in the same manner as an
ordinary electrotype. The process is specially adapted for the production of work with fine
lines.

A plate from which one hundred thousand impressions had been taken was shown, and
it seemed in good condition for many thousands more.

189. P. Tuchfarber ft Co., Cincinnati, Ohio, U. S.

ENAMELED IRON SHOW CARDS.

Report. — The execution displays artistic excellence, and the colors are brilliant and trans-
parent. These articles, so admirably meeting public demand, are in every respect the best
of their kind in the Exhibition.

190. A. Dunlop Gordon, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

BUILDING AND MANILLA CONCRETE FELTS.

Report. — ^This exhibit is principally of manilla paper, prepared or tarred, for various
building purposes, and lining of floors, walls, tanks, etc. ; is equal in strength to any, and
smoother than any, prepared paper exhibited ; and it is suitable for more purposes than
common building paper.

191. Benj. O. Woods ft Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

AMATEUR PRINTING PRESSES.

Report. — Commended for compactness, strength, ease with which the form can be ad-
justed and its position changed, and the general adaptation of the press for amateur work.

The ** Novelty*' press is made in several sizes, works well, is easily understood, and is
not liable to get out of order.

192. Greenwood ft Batley, Albion Works, Leeds, England.

JOB PRINTING PRESS.
Report. — Commended for general excellence as a machine for doing fine work.
The " Sun" machine is strongly built ; the platen moves squarely up to the bed ; there is
great strength of impression, and a very large ink distribution ; a combination of great
utility.

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193. William Shaw, London, England.

CARD PRESS.

Report, — Commended for compactness, simplicity, and great speed.
This press has an automatic feed, adjustable to any thickness of card, and prints seven
thousand per hour.
All its arrangements appear to be well planned and efficient.

194. Degencr ft WeUer, New York, N. Y., U. S.

JOB PRINTING PRESSES.
Report. — Commended as very simple in construction and strong. The form of type is
very accessible for corrections or alterations, and the platen easily reached when making
ready.

195. Golding & Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

SMALL JOB PRESSES.

Report. — Commended for simplicity, compactness, rapidity of operation, and ease of run-
ning. The series of " Pearl" presses are well made, easily adjusted to work a single line
or a full form; are self-inkers, with a good distribution; work nicely, and are well adapted
for general use.

196. Boston ft Fairhaven Iron Works, Fairhaven, Mass., U. S.

NEWSPAPER AND JOB PRINTING PRESS.
Report. — Commended for strength and durability, simplicity of construction, ease of
adjusting rollers and ink-fountain, adaptability for newspaper and job work, and general
excellence. The " Improved Fairhaven" press docs excellent work, has a speed of one
thousand per hour. The bed is moved by a lever and connecting rod, which holds it
firmly in position.

197. C. C. Child, Boston, Mass., U. S.

COUNTRY NEWSPAPER AND JOB PRESS.
Report, — Commended for compactness, ease of running, facility for changing and
making forms ready, excellence of ink distribution, and general adaptation to the wants
of a country newspaper and job office.

The "Acm6" country newspaper and job press runs exceedingly light and easy; is
simple in construction; has an excellent ink distribution; does good work; and has a
speed of eight hundred impressions per hour by hand and twelve hundred by steam power.
It has many small arrangements of convenience and utility.

198. Gustav L. Jaeger, New York, N. Y., U. S.

MACHINE FOR PASTING AND COMBINING PAPER OR TEXTILE FABRICS IN SHEETS.

Report. — A very compact machine for making two sheet pasteboards, or combining paper
with textile fabric for paper-collar work, or cloth-lined paper for envelopes, etc. The
design and arrangement very practical, and indicating great care in construction.
Although the exhibitor was unable to secure the space necessary for showing the drying
cylinders in operation, I have no hesitation in recommending the whole machine for award.

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199. A. ft B. Newbury, Cozsackie, N. Y., U. S.

JOB PRINTING PRESSES.

Report. — A very strong press, working by hand with very little power : the bed, remain-
ing stationary and holding the form in a vertical position, is easily reached by the oj)erator.

The machine is provided with an excellent movement for throwing off the impression
in order to work up the colors.

200. Merritt Gaily, New York, N. Y., U. S.

UNIVERSAL JOB PRINTING PRESSES ONE-HALF SHEET AND ONE-EIGHTH SHEET MEDIUM.

Report, — These presses combine the advantages of both the cylinder and platen motion.
The direct action of the platen, with a full rest for laying on the paper, coupled with the
perfect control of the operator over the inking, enables these presses to turn out very good
work. They are so strongly made that they can be used for embossing cameo dies in
color.

201. George P. Gordon, New York, N. Y., U. S.

JOB PRINTING PRESSES.

Report, — Commended as simple in construction, with good rest on impression, and full
time for laying on the paper. Excellent distribution insured by division of inking table in
two circles revolving in opposite directions.

202. Bullock Printing Press Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

ROTARY PERFECTING WEB PRINTING PRESS.

Report. — ^The press is low and compact, so as to be well under the eye and control of the
operator. It is easy of access for the adjustment of forms and rollers. It has no delivery
tapes to choke up in case of accident. The web is near the floor, is easily put in place, and
unequal tension is taken up on it before reaching the press, by a simple balanced equal-
izing bar.

The Bullock was the first successful web printing press made in America.

The press on exhibition uses two sets of stereotype plates on long cylinders, and prints
from a web twice as wide as the printed sheet.

At a competitive trial (Machinery Hall, June 28, 1876) it printed fourteen thousand eight
hundred and fifty-six copies of the New York Herald, or seven thousand four hundred and
twenty-eight impressions, in one hour, including eight and three-quarter minutes lost time
by reason of stoppages from accident and to renew the web. Quality of work good ; num-
ber of sheets spoiled, forty-six. Force to operate press, two men, with two boys to take
away sheets. The press was examined after running and was found in good order. These
machines are built to print either a four, eight, or sixteen page paper. The web of paper
was sixty-three inches wide, size of the printed papers forty-five and three-eighth inches by
thirty-one and one-half inches (45 J^ X 3'K)*

203. Cottrell A Babcock, New York, N. Y., U. S.

STOP-CYLINDER PRINTING PRESS.
Report. — An exceedingly well made machine, finished with great care, and well designed
for securing the accurate working of all the bearings. Very full and perfect distribution
with the strongest ink. Well adapted for printing the finest illustrated works.

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204. C. Potter, Jr. A Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

STOP-CYLINDER PRINTING PRESS.

Report. — Designed and constructed with great care and with special regard to strength
where most needed; very perfect rolling and distribution, with a firm, strong, steady-
impression.

This machine has a new movement called the " trip-at-will," giving the operator abso-
lute control over the machine and preventing the spoiling of pai>er.

The movement for automatically rolling the form three or four times for each impre^ion
is an advantage.

The machine has many minor improvements, calculated to insure the production of illus-
trated works in the best style.

205. R. Hoe & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

FAST PRESSES FOR PRINTING NEWSPAPERS FROM THE WEB.

Report. — Two of these presses are exhibited by the manufacturers. They may both be
described as perfecting presses for printing newspapers from the web, one having an accu-
mulating cylinder and fly delivery, the other working with' a folder in place of the accumu-
lator. With the exception of the difference in delivery, the machines are identical.

They are so constructed as to give to the operator thorough control and freedom of
access to all the working parts, when putting on the plates, adjusting the rollers, replacing
the web in case of a stoppage from faulty manufacture of the paper, accidental tear, or other
similar causes. The position of the web of paper immediately over the printing cylinder
gives great facility of feed, and enables the machine to print a thinner and lower quality
of paper, as it provides for a minimum strain on the web.

A competitive trial of this machine was held in Machinery Hall on June 29, with the
following result :

The machine worked with a double set of plates, and produced ten thousand nine hun-
dred impressions, or twenty-one thousand eight hundred copies. The time lost amounted
to fourteen minutes fifteen seconds, viz., seven minutes thirty seconds from stoppages caused
by defects in the rolls of paper, five minutes forty-five seconds occupied in putting on two
fresh rolls of paper, and one minute removing a form roller that had melted. The machine
was frequently timed, and worked when running at an average si>eed of fourteen thousand
four hundred impressions, or twenty-eight thousand eight hundred copies, per hour. A
lower rate of speed would probably have reduced the lost time and the number of waste
copies. The pai>ers were well printed, although the machine worked for some time with
only one form roller. At the conclusion of the trial the bearings of the press were cool
and in good order. The folding apparatus worked admirably during the whole trial, never
making a faulty fold or tripping, and delivered the newspapers in excellent condition. It
is a most valuable addition to the machine.

206. Globe Manufacturing Co., Palmyra, N. Y., U. S.

PRINTING PRESSES.

Report. — A variety of small printing presses, known as the " Peerless Presses." These
presses work very lightly by hand, are well constructed, and, having a stop motion by
which the form can be rolled twice or three times on each impression, circulars with fine
wood-cuts can be printed by them.

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207. John Walter, London, England.

PRINTING PRESS.

Report. — This press is what is known as a web perfecting press, taking the paper from a
web or roll and delivering the printed sheets. The idea of a web perfecting press is not a
novel one, presses upon this principle having been projected nearly half a century since.
The development of the principle is what claims attention.

It is simply and strongly constructed, with little liability to get out of order, and so
arranged that the forms can be easily and quickly got ready after the last plate has been
received from the stereotyper.

On the 28th of June the press was run one hour, with the following result. Prior to the
commencement of the trial, the press had all the plates on but the last one and the rollers
in. In three-fourths of a minute the last plate was securely put in place, and in one minute
additional the first perfect sheet was delivered. The press was stopped twice to put on
new rolls of paper, requiring in one case two minutes and in the other two minutes and
five seconds, and, in consequence of clogging of the sheets, the press was stopped two and
one-quarter minutes : total stoppage six minutes twenty-two seconds. The press printed the
New York Times, and the register showed a total of ten thousand four hundred and fifty-
five impressions.

The running was timed repeatedly, and found to be two hundred per minute, and for
the first fifteen minutes, during which there was no stoppage, the register showed exactly
three thousand impressions.

The size of the form was thirty-four and one-quarter by forty-four inches, and the web
of the paper was thirty-six inches in width. Twenty copies were spoiled, and all at the
time the paper jammed at the head of the delivery frame.

The papers were well printed, and the press worked very satisfactorily. At the conclu-
sion of the trial the journals of the press were examined, and were not in the least heated.
The rollers (evidently not recently made) were in good condition, and not at all softened.

208. R. Hoc A Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

printers' presses and materials.
Report. — In addition to the Newspaper Web Perfecting Presses referred to in another
report, the exhibitors have sent in for competition ten large printing presses, two litho-
graphic printing presses, proof presses, imposing tables, composing frames, and a great
variety of other articles required for the use of printers. The presses, whether for news-
papers printed from sheets, for first-class illustrated work, for general book work, or for
jobbing and commercial printers* use, are all well designed, strong, and finished in a
superior style. The general materials for use in printing-office^ are of the most modem
patterns, well finished by skillful workmen. .

209. Campbell Printing Press and Manufacturing Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

printing presses.
Report. — The art, book, news, and country presses are well made and adapted to the
work for which they are intended, and capable of doing good work.

210. Ferd. Lotz, Offenbach-on-the-Main, Germany.
lithographic engraving machine.
Report. — An excellent machine, well and carefully constructed, suitable for use on stone,
steel, or copper; has numerous adjustments for different classes of work, and can engrave
either a simple straight line pattern or a complicated piece of geometric work. It has also
a clever adjustment for relief work, which can be made to produce the design either smaller
or larger than the original die.

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211. A. Vital, Paris, France.

LITHOGRAPHIC MACHINE ROLLERS MADE OF LEATHER.

Report, — Made with very great care and accuracy ; the seams joined with great skilL

212. P. Alauzet, Paris, Prance.

LITHOGRAPHIC PRINTING MACHINE.

Report, — ^Well designed and constructed for the execution of first-class work, and
especially useful for color work requiring the most accurate registering.

213. Ch. Derriey, Paris, France.

MACHINE FOR NUMBERING CONSECUTIVELY BONDS WITH COUPONS.

Report. — This machine combines, in one frame, forty-two type numbering machines, with
figures suitable for numbering consecutively, at one operation, the body and the counterpart
of an ordinary bond and each of the coupons attached to it. The spaces can be arranged to
number either a larger or a smaller number of coupons, as may be required. The frame
is placed on a printing press adapted to the machine, and the great merit of the invention
is foimd in the simple arrangement by which all the figures of the nimibering cylinders
change consecutively at each revolution of the press.

214. J. ft E. Waldron, New Brunswick, N. J., U. S.

WALL PAPER PRINTING MACHINE AND TURN-AROUND DRYING MACHINE.

Report. — A good practical machine, thoroughly well designed and effectively carried
out in all its details. The arrangement for supplying the color by a continuous web of
sieve cloth answers well; the machines generally will no doubt do public service by
tending to reduce the price of ordinary paper hangings.

215. W. O. Hickok, Harrisburg, Pa., U. S.

PAPER RULING MACHINES.

Report. — This paper ruling machine is cheap, simple, and easy of operation. It requires
no high degree of skill to operate it. The paper ruled by it is uniform and free from off-
set. The work may be done at high speed. The machine has improvements in the striker,
which enable it to register column rules from different head-lines with exactness. It is
well known as a standard machine in American binderies and blank-book factories.

216. Chas. Eneu Johnson, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

AUTOMATIC FEEDER FOR PRINTING MACHINES.

Report. — This feeder may be attached to any printing machine, and will feed a sheet of
double super royal at the rate of one thousand per hour, and smaller sizes at greater speed.

The perforating point or cutter, by which only one sheet of paper can be picked up at
once, is an ingenious contrivance.

The apparatus is inexpensive.

217.' Rose ft MacDonnell, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

PRINTERS' ROLLERS.

Report. — The composition is carefully prepared and well adapted for the purpose in-
tended ; cast in blocks for easy transmission to country printers ; rollers in exhibit thor-
oughly well cast.

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218. E. H. Barney, Springfield, Mass., U. S.

BANK PERFORATING STAMP.

Report. — Commended as a simple, well-made, and ingenious machine for perforating
checks, bonds, certificates of stock, etc., to prevent alteration. It is easily and quickly
adjusted for any required amount, and is not liable to get out of order.

219. Fry's Engraving Establishment, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

ENGRAVED DIES, STAMPS, AND TOOLS.

Report. — This is an exhibit of engraved dies for the ornamentation of books, and of
stamps and tools used by book -binders. The brass dies exhibited show superiority of work-
manship and design.

220. M. S. Nordstrdm, Stockholm, Sweden.

CORK-MARKING STAMPS.

Report, — Conmiended for novelty and cheapness.

221. Maclachlan, Hopkins, ft Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

PAGING AND NUMBERING MACHINES.

Repoii, — Commended for simplicity, ease of running, facility for adjusting different sizes
of figures, and general adaptation for the work for which they are designed. The double-
head machine is arranged to number both a check and its counterpart at one blow, or it
will at the same time number two coupons. The cylinders on the paging machine are
with great facility changed to print large or small figures ; and both machines are conve-
niently arranged for disposing of sheets of paper after they are numbered.

222. W. A. Kelsey & Co., Meriden, Conn., U. S.

AMATEUR PRINTING PRESSES.

Report, — Commended for simplicity and effectiveness and novelty in the chase. The
"Excelsior*' is an amateur press, is strongly made, and works well. The patent chase has
a bottom which enables the amateur to easily arrange his form to work evenly, and avoids
much of the risk of accidentally disarranging the tjrpe.

223. Bauer's Type Foundry, Frankfort-on-the-Main, Germany.

TYPE FOUNDING AND CUTTING.

Report. — Conunended for original and tasteful designs and excellent workmanship.

224. Charles S. Westcott, New York, N. Y., U. S.

MACHINE FOR CASTING, DRESSING, AND COMPOSING TYPES IN ONE COMBINED OPERATION.

Report. — A very bold and clever invention, especially when we remember how many
unechanical devices have been tried, at considerable expense, for years past, in attempting
to construct composing machines.

This machine deserves special praise for the ingenious and skillful manner in which
the matrix for the particular type required is brought into position for casting. The types
are well finished, considering all the difficulties to be overcome, and reach their place in
the galley-stick smoothly and easily.

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225. National Printing-Office, Lisbon, Portugal.

SPECIMENS OF TYPE AND TYPOGRAPHY.

Report. — The specimen-book of types, borders, etc., is very fine. The typographical
appearance of the books of this exhibit is exceedingly creditable.

226. Heinrich Flinsch, Frankfort-on-the-Main, Germany.

TYPE.
Report. — Commended for the large assortment of original punches of every description,
eighty-eight thousand and ninety-seven original punches and one hundred and fifty-two
thousand seven hundred and thirty-seven matrices belonging to the establishment.

227. George Brace's Son & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

PRINTING TYPES.

Report. — Conmiended as book and newspaper tyj)e of great hardness; for beauty of
design, especially in kerned and ornamental type for imitating engraving. Besides the type
shown, a specimen-book embracing a large variety of plain and ornamental types bore
testimony to the good taste of the firm in their general manufacture.

228. The Wm. H. Page Wood Type Co., Grcenevillc, Conn., U. S.

WOOD TYPE.

Report. — Commended for superior workmanship and artistic designs. The wood type
and borders are beautifully cut in hard and durable wood, and the specimen-book shows
great variety in design.

229. M. Alissof, St. Petersburg, Russia.

TYPE-WRITER; NEW METHOD FOR PRINTING MUSIC BY PHOTO- LITHOGRAPHY.

Report. — This machine is called a ** type-writer," but should perhaps be more properly
termed a type-printer, the impressions of the letters being equal to ordinary book printing,
the types being worked by rollers, as in ordinary printing presses.

The machine produces excellent work, and may be advantageously used for making
clear, regular, and well-finished copies of bad manuscripts, letters, or other documents,
with transfer ink, and transferring to a lithographic stone or a zinc plate. The machine
contains two hundred and forty characters, or nearly five times as many as the type-writer
now in use. It has been beautifully and carefully constructed, and deser\'es great com-
mendation. The new method of preparing cliches or stereos for printing music by
photo-lithography is a most ingenious invention, and doubtless calculated to lead to a much
more economical production of songs, copies of music for singing-classes, choirs, and bands.

230. Mackellar, Smiths, ft Jordan, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

TYPE-FOUNDING MACHINERY, TYPES, AND PRINTING MATERIAL.
Report. — Commended for accurate and excellent work in large variety. Originality is
not claimed for the type-casting machine, but only such improvements as experience has
shown to be necessary to secure the quickest and best results. The types, rules, slotted
comers, etc., exhibited show accurate workmanship and special adaptation to printers'
requirements. Their specimen-book shows a great variety of tasteful styles of types and
borders.

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231. V. Qrottenthaler, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

BOXWOOD FOR ENGRAVERS* USE.

Report, — ^This is an exhibit of boxwood for engravers* use ; is in large blocks or in sec-
tions with screws. The wood is well selected and well put together. The short screws
with ears, with which the blocks are put together, is an improvement and an ingenious
device.

232. W. H. Windsor, Little Rock, Arkansas, U. S.

PRINTERS* (form) FRAME.
Report, — One of the best principles to close types in a very easy way.

233. Standard Machinery Co., Mystic River, Conn., U. S.

MACHINE FOR ROUNDING AND BACKING BOOKS.
Report. — This machine does by power what is often considered the hardest work of the
bindery. The operator has merely to feed the book to the machine, when it is clamped,
rounded, and automatically released, ready for the cover. As skilled labor may be dis-
pensed with, the economy of using this machine is considerable.

234. Novelty Paper Box Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

WIRE STITCHING MACHINES FOR BOOKS AND PAMPHLETS.
Report. — ^Two machines for stitching pamphlets or books with wire instead of thread.
A great novelty in pamphlet binding has been introduced by these clever machines, at once
rapid and economical. They can be worked by a novice at the rate of twenty-two per
minute, completing the work with great neatness and strength. The patent wire-stitched
books display great durability and flexibility, with great economy in production.

235. Chambers Brothers, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

BOOK, NEWSPAPER, AND PERIODICAL FOLDER, PASTER, AND TRIMMER.

Report. — ^The newspaper folder is well made and thoroughly well designed and adapted
for printers having a newspaper with a moderate circulation.

The periodical folder can be worked at a speed of one thousand per hour, and does the
work very efficiently.

236. Wm. Braidwood, New York, N. Y., U. S.

PERFORATING MACHINE FOR CHECKS, STAMPS, ETC,
Report. — Commended as a perforating machine worked with pins on circular cutter, and
cones for stopping at any point. Very fast, and well adapted for stop or through work.

237. S. C. Forsaith A Co., Manchester, N. H., U. S.

NEWSPAPER FOLDING MACHINE.

Report, — Commended for simplicity of its parts, freedom from tapes and belts, and
efficiency at a speed of three thousand per hour.

238. Wm. Braidwood, New York, N. Y., U. S.

PAPER FOLDING MACHINE FOR BLANK BOOKS.

Report. — This convenient machine or tool for the binding effects the folding of a small
number of sheets at one stroke, for blank books and the like, with a speed and certainty
only attainable after long practice by hand folders ; it is a simple and cheap labor-saving
device. It increases the solidity of blank books.

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239. Mary H. Semple, Lowell, Mass., U. S.

BOOK TRIMMING MACHINE.

Report, — ^The machine was a novelty embodying many useful features when first intro-
duced, and, although long on the market, is still unsurpassed in some of them. The
table movement is very ingenious, adapting the machine to the work of trimming a large
or small number of books to any desired size within limits.

240. Charles W. Packer, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

MACHINES FOR CUTTING CARDBOARD.
Report. — Commended for the general adaptation of the machine for the work designed.
* The machine is for the use of paper-box makers, cuts circular or oval with facility, and is
easily adjusted for different sizes.

241. C. C. Child, Boston, Mass., U. S.

PAPER CUTTING MACHINE.

Report. — The machine seems to be peculiarly adapted to perform the miscellaneous work
of a bindery. It is self-clamping. The clamp moves with the knife, so that no time is
lost. The pressure of the clamp is automatically regulated by the knife, so that no power
is thrown away, and the paper is not injured by excessive pressure. The gauge is new and
exact, and may be quickly adjusted from the front of the machine. The knife can be
instantly stopped during any portion of the cut. The wooden cylinder on which the knife
cuts can be quickly changed to give a new cutting surface. The machine is neat, strong,
compact, and well finished.

242. Brown & Carver, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

PAPER CUTTER AND ROTARY CARD CUTTER.

Report. — ^The operating parts of the paper cutter are well fitted and strongly built. The
gauge is very accurate, and is adapted to be set close to the knife so as to cut the smallest
sheets.

The card cutter will do very rapid work. A plurality of rotating disks on rotating
parallel shafts cut past each other with the effect of a shear cut.

243. George H. Sanborn, New York, N. Y., U. S.

PAPER CUTTING MACHINES.

Report. — ^These machines are well adapted for heavy work, the larger sizes especially for
the use of paper-makers. The friction self-clamping device seems to be sufficiently power-
ful to secure any reasonable amount of paper. The lever movement, by which slow cut
and quick return are secured, is strong and reliable. The stamping and embossing press
exhibited in the Campbell Building is strong and well built, and specially adapted for the
work intended.

244. E. R. A T. W. Sheridan, New York, N. Y., U. S.

BOOK SAWING MACHINE.

Report. — The simple expedient of adapting circular saws to cut to a regulated depth in
the backs of folded sheets, so as to sink the twine on which the book is sewed, is a device
of much practical utility.

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245. Holjroke Machine Co., Holyoke, Mass., U. S.

CEOUCE W. HAMMOND'S PATENT STOP CUTTER AND A STACK OF SUPER CALENDERS.

Report. — Commended for an improved method of cutting either wet or dry paper square,
therein !>aving both time and paper. The machine is built in a substantial and workman-
like nianner. A stack of super calenders, having strength and beauty of finish, is a note-
worthy feature of this exhibit.

246. Cleveland Paper Box Machine Co., Cleveland, Ohio, U. S.

MACHINE FOR MAKING PAPER BOXES.

RfpifTt. — A strongly built, efficient, and rapidly working machine.

Thtj machine makes paper boxes and covers, and also boxes and covers combined, for use
Pi a substitute for the ordinary paper and twine method of putting up packages; does the work
wtll and cheaply.

247. Clague, Randall, ft Co., Rochester, N. Y., U. S.

MACHINE FOR COVERING PAMPHLETS AUTOMATICALLY.
t

R^pm-t. — A well-constructed machine; will cover a pamplet of one sheet only, or twenty
sheets thick, at the rate of one thousand to twelve hundred per hour. Boy feeds the covers.
Ilii^ a very ingenious automatic needle arrangement for feeding pamphlets. Work well
fmi^hed, and delivered ready for trimming.

248. W. E. A E. D. Lockwood, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

AUTOMATIC ENVELOPE MACHINE.
Rep&rt. — It deserves great commendation for originality of design and construction. It
h ihe only machine exhibited that cuts the envelopes from the web of paper. It pro-
fit tes the envelopes complete and ready for use at the rate of one hundred and lwent>' per
ratiiUttJi on an improved economic principle. An automatic seed-bag-envelope machine
wds Also exhibited, working at the rate of seventy-five per minute, with good result.

249. Samuel Raynor & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

ENVELOPE GUMMING AND FOLDING MACHINE.

Report. — This machine has been well designed and carefully constructed ; is very exten-
sively used for the manufacture of envelopes of all ordinary sizes. The arrangement by
ivhk>i :he flap of the envelope is gummed by a rolling cylinder is a valuable improvement,
securinjf greater certainty and more regularity in the gumming. The machine requires
very little power to drive it, and the attendant has perfect control over all the working
parts.

250. I. Morton Poole & Co., Wilmington, Del., U. S.

PAPER MANUFACTURING MACHINE.

Rffort. — This exhibit contains a stack of calendering rolls, intended to be part of a
cnrrijitete paper machine. These rolls are of cast iron chilled at the surface in casting
RUf! thereby made hard like tempered steel. They are separately ground according to a
highly improved plan, and are so true that when placed together they appear to bear upon
each other throughout their entire length. Chilled iron calenders of this character are t
mndcrn and important improvement for all first-class paper machines.

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251. Lobdcll Car Wheel Co., WUmington, Del., U. S.

PAPER MAKING MACHINERY.

Report. — This exhibit contains a stack of calendering rolls, intended to be part of a
complete paper machine. These rolls are of cast iron chilled at the surface in casting and
thereby made hard like tempered steel. They are separately ground according to a highly
improved plan, and are so true that when placed together they bear upon each other through-
out their entire length. This exhibit has the exceptional merit that the rolls are not only
ground true, but cast, by the exhibitor.

252. Howell & Brothers, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

HANGING-UP MACHINE, CUTTING-OFF AND ROLLING MACHINE, HARDENING MACHINE,
ATTACHED TO WALDRON'S WALL-PAPER PRINTING MACHINE.

Report, — These three machines are admirable adjuncts to the wall-paper printing machine,
rendering it much more complete and its product more easily marketable.

The paper hangings exhibited show much merit in the harmony and combination of the
colors used.

253. Holjroke Machine Co., Holyoke, Mass., U. S.

GOULD'S PATENT BEATING ENGINE.

Report, — Commended for economy of space, economy in cost, saving of labor, strength,
and durability ; and is peculiar in that the stuff requires no stirring by the engineer.

254. J. R. Osgood ft Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

HELIOTYPOGRAPHY.
Report. — This exhibit is of a special process of transferring from an ordinary negative a
design upon a plate of sensitized gelatine, in such a manner that the said plate can be
rapidly printed from, as from a stone. The process renders practicable admirable and
cheap printing of copies both from nature and from fine artistic work.

255. United States Soapstone Manufacturing Co., Cincinnati, Ohio, U. S.

SOAPSTONE PRODUCTS.

Report. — Commended for a very meritorious display of soapstone stationery articles for
school and general trade purposes. •

256. Chamberlin, Whitmorc, A Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

ENVELOPES, WEDDING STATIONERY, AND VISITING CARDS.

Report. — Commended as being all in the highest order of merit.

257. Pusey, Jones, A Co., Wilmington, Del., U. S.

PAPER MANUFACTURING MACHINERY.

Report. — This exhibit contains an expanding pulley for nicely regulating the speed of
parts of a paper machine, and which is an important improvement. The plan is simple
and effective. Also a stack of calendering rolls, intended to be part of a complete paper
machine. These rolls are of cast iron chilled in casting and thereby made hard like tem-
pered steel. They are separately ground according to a highly improved plan, and are so
true that when placed together they appear to bear upon each other throughout their entire
length. Chilled iron calenders of this character are a modem and important improvement
for all first-class paper machines.

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258. Gavit Paper Machine Works, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

PAPER MAKING MACHINERY.

Report. — Commended for the patent cone pulley paper cutter, which enables the machine
to run at a high rate of speed ; the open press roll stands being very convenient in putting
on and taking off felts; also the improved deckle frame, whereby the deckles may be
removed from the machine more conveniently and with less liability to injure the -Tire
cloth; also an improvement known as the one-arm pulp dresser. Commended for cpnve-
nience, strength, durability, and ability to meet the demand for running a paper machine
at a high rate of speed ; also for a stack of web super calenders which combines strength,
finish, and economy in cost.

259. Alois Winkler, Vienna, Austria.

METALLIC LETTERS AND SIGNS.

Report. — The metallic letters and titles inlaid with mother of pearl, gold, and colored,
are tasteful and durable, and therefore useful for making show-cards, titles, etc.

260. United States Stamped Envelope Works, Hartford, Conn., U. S.

MACHINE FOR GUMMING, EMBOSSING, FOLDING, AND COUNTING ENVELOPES.

Report. — This machine has been constructed with great care and finish. The work is
completed in an excellent and perfect manner. It is the only machine in the Exhibition
which completes the envelope with an embossed colored die at one operation.

261. Socios de la Pefia, Bilbao, Spain.

CIGARETTE PAPERS.

Report. — It is an exhibit of cigarette papers manufactured from both linen and straw, of
various qualities, from common to superfine ; plain, medicated, and tobacco-flavored, and
finished both with and without sizing. These papers are notable for their strength and
pliability, and, by reason of their variety, combine the qualities required by the various
markets of the world.

262. Bureau of Engraving and Printing, United States Treasury Department,
Washington, D. C, U. S.

ENGRAVING, PRINTING, AND COMPOSITION.
Report. — This exhibit embraces :

1. Specimens of engraving of letters, vignettes, counters, and other designs of bank
note character, suitable for bonds, bank notes, stamps, checks, and other securities.

2. Specimens showing the character of the printing of the same.

3. Illustrations of a new process for cheaply composing plates for the printing of seen-
rities, checks, cards, bill heads, in a style much superior to that commonly adopted, and at
a comparatively trifling cost.

The specimens of engraving exhibited are according to the highest present standard of
art in design and execution, and are worthy of the national institution within which they
have been elaborated.

The printing is perfectly done, and bears witness to the employment of the best skill
and materials, and of highly improved machinery and process.

The whole exhibit is highly meritorious.

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SIGNING JUDGES OF GROUP XIII.

The numbers annexed to the names of the Judges indicate the reports written by them
respectively.

Wm. Faxon, i, 2, 3, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 23, 24, 25, 26, 138, 188, 191, 192, 193, 195,

196, 197, 207, 2l8, 220, 221, 222, 227, 228, 230, 237, 240, 246.

Sydney H. Waterlow, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 28, 31, 37, 58, 194, 198, 199,
200, 201, 203, 204, 205, 206, 208, 2IO, 2n, 212, 213, 214, 216, 217, 224, 229, 234, 235,
236, 247, 248, 249, 252, 260.

Edward Conley, 20, 21, 22, 27, 29, 60, 70, 71, 102, 137, 139, 140, 141, 142, 143, 145,
146, 148, 149. 152, 154, 158, 163, 164, 165, 245, 253, 258.

James M. Willcox, 30, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 38, 39, 41, 43» 44, 45, 46, 49, 5©, 5^ 5^, 53,
54, 55, 56, 57, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 72, 73, 108, 109, ni, 113, 114, 115, 116,
117, 118, 119, 120, 135, 159, 161, 162, 166, 167, i68, 169, 170, 171, 172, 173, 174, 175,
176, 177, 178, 179, i8o, i8i, 183, 184, 185, 186, 187, 190, 250, 251, 254, 257, 261, 262.

C. O. Chapin, 40, 42. 47, 48, 59, 74, 75, 76, 77, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88,
89, 90, 9^ 92, 93, 94, 95, 9^, 97, 9^, 99, ^oo, loi, 103, I04, 105, >o6, 107, 112, 121, 122,
123, 125, 127, 128, 130, 134, 147, 223, 226, 25s, 256.

GusTAV Seitz, 78, 129, 131, 132, 133, 144, 150, 151, 153, 155, 156, 157, 160, 182, 189,
23a, 259.

H.T. Brian, no, 124, 126, 136, 202, 209, 215, 219, 225, 231, 233, 238, 239, 241, 242,
243, 244-

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SUPPLEMENT TO GROUP XIII.

REPORTS

JUDGES ON APPEALS.

JUDGES.

Jtmst FEITZ, Bethlehem, Pa.
EnWA^RD CoNLEY, Cincinnati, Ohio.
Charles Staples, Jr., Portland, Me.
Benj, F. Britton, New York City.
H. H. Smith, Philadelphia, Pa.

Coleman Sellers, Philadelphia, Pa,
James L. Claghorn, Philadelphia, Pa.
Henry K. Oliver, Salem, Mass.
M. WiLKlNS, Harrisburg, Oregon.
S. F. Baird, Washington, D. C.

I. A. M. Collins, Son, A Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

CARD MOUNTS IN VARIOUS STYLES FOR PHOTOGRAPHS.

Mep&ri. — Bevel-edge cards for "Glace" pictures; card mounts with border lines and
scroll-work; illuminated back of carte de visite mounts; all tasteful in design, of good
quality and superior workmanship.

2. Samuel Loag, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SAMPLES OF FINE COLOR PRINTING.

jP^/^?^.^-Commended for a fine display of printing in colors ; illuminated title-pages of
books, rich in design and well printed ; register clean, colors fine.

3. J. M. Armstrong, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

MUSIC TYPOGRAPHY.

Mepari. — Commended for clean cut and clearness of type-work in all the varieties of the
exhibit

4. Lehman ft Bolton. Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

COMMERCIAL LITHOGRAPHY.

Mtjfoti. — Commended for originality of design and fine workmanship.

5. C. A. Dixon A Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

COLLEGE STATIONERY.

Mep&rt, — Commended for good design and workmanship on " college commencement
invitations/'

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GROUP XIIL 93

6. The Wells ft Hope Company, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

CHROMO-LITHOqRAPHIC IRON SHOW CARDS.

Report, — Commended for durability and workmanship, fitness for the purposes intended,
and adaptation to public wants.

7. Chas. Bonnet ft Co., Geneva, Switzerland.

WOOD TYPE.

Report, — Commended for good design and workmanship.

8. George Waterston ft Son, Edinburgh, Scotland.

SEALING WAX.

Report. — Commended for superior adhesiveness, color, and hardness in hot climates;
also for minimum waste in melting in a flame.

9. S. F. Gratz, Birmingham, England.

REVOLVING BRASS WHEEL NUMBERING AND DATING STAMPS.

Report, — Commended for ingenuity, utility, and ease of manipulation. This stamp can
be used for various purposes ; and is so arranged as to be interchangeable, with little
chance of losing the parts or disarranging them.

10. Stephenson, Blake, ft Co., Sheffield and London, England.

SPECIMEN SHEETS OF PRINTING TYPE.

Report. — Commended for great variety of " book faces" good. Old-style book face very
good.

II. Munkedal Manufacturing Co., Uddevalla, Sweden.

PAPER.

Report. — Cheap papers in different colors ; well adapted for cheap wall paper.

12. Malmo Wood Pulp Manufacturing Co., Delary, Sweden.

CHEMICALLY PREPARED WOOD PULP.

Report. — Commended for bright color and strong fibre for paper pulp.

13. Chr. Christophersen, Christiania, Norway.

CHEMICALLY PREPARED WOOD PULP.

Report, — A good quality of ground wood pulp.

14. A. O. Hamborg, Christiania, Norway.

GROUND WOOD PULP.

Report. — ^A good quality of wood pulp, mechanically prepared.

15. Bravo ft Co., Chili.

PAPER.

Report. — This is an exhibit of wrapping and colored poster papers, well made and of
good strong texture.

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g^ REPORTS ON AWARDS.

1 6. J. Franaszek, Warsaw, Russia.

PAPER HANGIIiGS.

Jtip^fi. — CoraOTcnded for cheapness and variety in styles.

17. J. K. Prenkel ft Sons, Taipmerfors, Russia.

PAPER.

Rt^&ri, — This is an exhibit of writing paper of good strong texture and well sized.

18. Prado Paper- Mill Co., Thomar, Portugal.

PAPER.

Rf/arf. — WnLing and wrapping paper, of good quality; the writing paper well sized.

19. Samuel Raxnsden, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

PAPER.

^<r/i?r/.— News and wrapping paper, of good quality, made of native fibres.

20. Nynfts Pasteboard Factory, Mavida, Sweden.

PASTEBOARD (WOOD).
HtporL — A adfi* and smooth pasteboard, made from wood pulp.

21. C. G. Mineur, Stockholm, Sweden.

WALL PAPER— IMITATION OF LEATHER, AND DECORATIVE CARVINGS IN WOOD PULP.

Rf/^ari. — Imitations of leather in embossed paper, painted and gilded to imitate antiqae
embossed leaihcr* Strong and well executed, with rich design. Also paper-pulp ornaments.
Commended for cheapness and general adaptability to the uses intended. They are much
lighter than planter ornaments, which they resemble, and are readily applied in decorations.

22. Sten Lewenhaupt, Wermbohl, Sweden.

CHEMICALLY PREPARED WOOD PULP.
Rfperi* — A good, long, and strong fibre for paper stock.

23. Potsdamer ft Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

COMMERCIAL LITHOGRAPHY.

^^crA— Commended for beauty of design and excellence in Spencerian scrip and
bank work.

SIGNING JUDGES OF SUPPLEMENT TO GROUP XIII.

ITic figures annexed to the names of the Judges indicate the reports written by them
respectively.

Coleman Sellers, i, 2, 6, 9, 10, 21.
H. K. OUVER, 3.

Edward Conley, 4, 5, 7, 8, ii, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 22, 23.

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GROUP XIV.

APPARATUS FOR HEATING, LIGHTING, VENTILA-
TION, WATER-SUPPLY, DRAINAGE, ETC.

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GROUP XIV,

JUDGES.

AMERICAN.

Christopher C. Cox, Washington, D. C,

Az£L Ames, Jr., Wakefield, Mass.

DaDGUs Calto^ was temporarily assigned from Group XVJII 10 assist in the exavi-
Qition of Ventilalion, etc.

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GROUP XIV.

APPARATUS OF HEATING, LIGHTING, VENTILATION, WATER-
SUPPLY, AND DRAINAGE.

Class 222. — Apparatus and fixtures for heating and cooking, — stoves, ranges, heaters,
etc.

Fire-places, grates and fixtures, for burning wood, coal, or gas.

Hot-air furnaces, steam heaters, hot- water heaters, radiators, etc.

Stoves, cooking stoves, kitchen ranges, ovens, and fixed apparatus of cooking.

Class 224. — Kitchen and pantry utensils, tin-ware, and apparatus used in ' cooking
(exclusive of cutlery).

Class 223. — Apparatus for lighting, — gas fixtures, lamps, etc.

Ventilating apparatus.

Water-supply apparatus, — pipes, faucets, filters, hot-water boilers, water-backs, and
plumbers' goods generally.

Drainage, — pipes, traps, and sewer connections, and apparatus.

Abattoirs and accessories, including apparatus for the utilization of animal waste, ex-
clusive of fish.

Disinfectants, in their sanitary applications.

Class 224. — Refrigerators.

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GENERAL REPORT

OF THE

JUDGES OF GROUP XIV.

International Exhibition,
Philadelphia, 1876.

Prof. Francis A. Walker, Chief of Bureau of Awards:

Sir, — I send you herewith the report of the Judges of this Group
upon heating, lighting, and sanitary appliances, etc.

Respectfully yours,

AZEL AMES, Jr.

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INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

GROUP XIV.

APPARATUS FOR HEATING, LIGHTING, VENTILA-
TION, WATER-SUPPLY, DRAINAGE, ETC.

BY AZEL AMES, Jr.

To Group XIV. was assigned the consideration of the appliances
involved in the sanitary .systems affecting the abodes, sustenance, and
occupations of man. It is matter of regret that the group, embracing
in its purview so important and varied an exhibit, should have been
composed of but two members, except as, by their request, foreign
members of the Board were from time to time temporarily added ;
such additions, however, giving the group, as well as the exhibitors,
the advantage of the valuable services of Sir Sidney H. Waterlow,
of Group XIII., on drainage exhibits; Captain Douglas Galton. F.R.S.,
of Group XVIII., on heating and ventilation exhibits ; and Dr. C. B.
White, of Group XXIV., on odorless excavating apparatus.

In few departments of our social system have more or greater im-
provements or radical advances been made during the last centurj^
than in the directions indicated by the general terms heating, light-
ing, ventilation, water-supply, drainage, etc. Under these several
heads there were presented two hundred and fifty-two exhibits, by
far the larger percentage being of American production. Indeed,
it is to be greatly regretted, in view of the present lively interest in all
sanitary matters, that Great Britain and other nations whose sanitary
experiences have produced many appliances should not have been
more generous contributors to the Exhibition.

It is designed in this report to cursorily review:

a. The purpose of the efforts essayed in the systems enumerated, as
chiefly comprising the range of what is known as sanitary science.

6, The advance during the century, as shown by the Exhibition.

c. The contributions presented in the Exhibition as the results of
such efforts and advance, the points therein considered in determining
their relative excellence according to the assumed standard, and the

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIV. 3

requisites deemed essential to secure for them recognition as approved
appliances in their respective fields.

d. The tendency of present efforts in the same directions, and that
probable in the future.

For the sake of convenience in reference, the classification given
by the Bureau of Awards is adopted in the consideration of the
several sub-divisions.

Tlie first of these, being Class 222, embraces apparatus and fixtures
for heating and cooking, — stoves, ranges, heaters, etc.

In sanitary matters, except in the department of cookery, the word
" warming" signifies more correctly than the term " heating" the con-
dition sought ; and inasmuch as the provision for the warming of
apartments depends, not so much upon their cubic contents as upon
the amount of fresh air supplied them and its removal, it is well-nigh
impossible to disassociate warming and ventilation. By the classifi-
cation adopted, however, the latter is referred to another class, and
must be considered as incidental.

WARMING.

The bent of the efforts made in all plans for the warming of man's
habitation may be briefly said to have been the maintenance of a
degree of temperature most conducive to health and comfort, under
conditions of least expense, greatest convenience, freedom from dele-
terious contamination, and efficiency in the promotion of ventilation.

The advance made in this direction during the century closing
with 1875 has, perhaps, been equaled in no department of domestic
life. At the opening of the century the universal method of house-
warming throughout the civilized world, subject only to trifling vari-
ations, was the open fire-place extending into the chimney-throat,
occupying a large space in the dwelling, and having its wasteful com-
bustion fed by peat, turf, and wood.

The progress of the decades has witnessed in more or less rapid
succession, in this country, the advent of the ventilating fire-place or
** Franklin Stove," the cast- or sheet-iron cylinders in their crudity,
the "box stove," the "air-tight," the more elegant elaborations of
cast and rolled metal in stove form, the open grate, the cast-iron and
sheet-iron furnace, the steam-coil and radiator, the hot-water heater,
and the gas stove, log. radiator, etc., with all the multiple attach-
ments and appliances of each. In Europe the earlier forms of iron
and earthen fire-chambers, the porcelain stoves, and the open grate,
led to the brass and tile stoves, and the later productions in metal
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4 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

for burning wood and coal. The substitution of coal and its products
for wood as fuel led to great changes and advances in the warming of
dwellings. So generally has this substitution been effected that appli-
ances for wood-burning only are rarely presented, and the Exhibition
furnished but two such examples, one being a foreign exhibit. The
earlier agencies of warming naturally claim consideration first.

FIRE-PLACES, GRATES, AND FIXTURES FOR BURNING WOOD, COAL.

OR GAS.

As with the use of the old-time wood- or peat-burning fire on the
hearth, the great disadvantage was found to be the loss of a large
proportion of the heat evolved, all earlier efforts at improved appliances
naturally took the direction of securing a greater return of heat for
the expenditure of fuel, — a desideratum, of course, never lost sight of
in later undertakings, though the introduction of anthracite, lignite,
and bituminous coal has necessitated a principal regard for the
character of elements of combustion in new form. Their control,
convenient manipulation, and the attractiveness of appliances have
become associate desiderata.

"The Franklin Stove,*' the first of the several steps in the succes-
sion which has brought about the widely varied and numerous appa-
ratus represented at the Exhibition, was subject -also to the charge
of much loss of heat, and most of the provisions for open fires which
have followed, whether for wood or coal, have been more or less open
to this objection. The open coal-grate of the earlier patterns secured
to the warmth of the room only from 12 to 17 per cent, of the total
result of combustion, and it is only within the last twenty years that
the principles which were enunciated by Desaguliers 130 years ago,
by Morin and Du Chalet, and were given their simplest adaptation
by Captain Douglas Galton in an open ventilating fire-place grate,
have been fully recognized.

Two examples of the adaptation of this principle — which provides
for the thorough warming of fresh air around the grate and its sub-
sequent discharge into the apartment — were exhibited at Philadelphia,
one of them of English manufacture, and built to express Captain
Galton's views, the other, an American modification, in stove form,
possessing the advantage of being portable. The genial glow of the
open fire, its value as a ventilating agent, and its comparatively small
outlay in fixtures, render it naturally a favorite, and it is gratifying to
know that alone, or as an auxiliary, it can now be obtained in a form
to secure an economical result from its fuel, and genuine aid in the
ventilation of the apartment; while not the least satisfactory of its

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIV. 5

recently-added features is its provision for use with a descending flue,
whereby its presence is made possible under circumstances which
must otherwise exclude it.

The eight different exhibits of fire-place grates and two of open-
grate stoves furnished seven examples only that were deemed to
hold the essentials for their class in such degree as to entitle them to
recognition and award.

These requisites were : first, such arrangement of drafts and setting
as should secure a fair degree of the results of combustion ; second,
provision for ventilating action by the indirect method; and third,
general availability by an ascending or descending flue. Further
points of advantage, in workmanship, artistic construction and effect,
special devices for the care of ashes, and fine finish, were of course
considered in the making up of an award. It may be said in brief
that, the nearer the fire-place, grate, or fixture becomes the embodi-
ment of the principles existing in the grate of Galton among per-
manent fixtures, and the ** Fire on the Hearth** open-ventilating stove
of New York in portable form, the more completely are its purposes
fulfilled.

The larger use of the fire-place and open grate in Great Britain and
through Continental Europe has, as might be expected, made their
construction and adaptation in all features more familiar and perfect
there; and although in elegance of mountings and finish the Ameri-
can products were of superior character, and New York and Phila-
delphia vied with each other in beauty and expense of elaboration,
the exhibits of Great Britain possessed evidence of fidelity in con-
struction to a greater degree. The marked advance in all apparatus
of this class is unmistakably found in a greater regard for the economy
of heat, the more scientific supply and disposal of its air-currents, and
in provision for a wider application of its advantages. The direction
of future improvements, as suggested by those already accomplished,,
is likely to be toward greater economy of heat and larger availability.
That the effect of the exhibit of these goods at the Exhibition,
although limited in extent, was favorable to their more general use,
at least as auxiliaries, cannot be doubted. The improved methods
of induction of air and removal of ash, and hence the lessened annoy-
ance from flying particles, remove their chief objections, other than
their want of economy. In a climate where there are seasons of
severe cold it is hardly to be expected that they will become other
than genial aids to the warming of dwellings.

Among the new and useful methods of warming which the intro-
duction of coal as fuel has brought with it is that of the combustioa

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6 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

of gas as fuel, either as the product of coal itself, or as produced from
other sources, as wood, rosin, oil, coal-tar, etc. Although the use
of coal-gas as an illuminator undoubtedly somewhat antedates the
general substitution of coal for other fuel, it does not appear that gas
has been utilized to any extent as an agent of combustion for the
purpose of warming until within the last two decades.

The demand for means of producing heat in very small compass,
with trifling labor and least delay, and especially in conditions
where none of the other forms of warming apparatus could well be
applied, has served to bring the burning of gas as a source of heat
into very wide and rapidly-extending use, more particularly under
circumstances where expense is less of an objection than a larger fire
or more cumbrous appliances.

The construction of conveniences for simple heating, as of water
or food, by attachments to illuminating fixtures, undoubtedly some-
what preceded the larger employment of gas, either for general cook-
ing purposes or for warming. The natural succession has been
the construction of apparatus for intense and direct heat for the
preparation of food, and for continued and diffused heat for warming
alone. Such apparatus has taken shape in a wide range of gas-stoves,
designed and adapted for their special uses ; gas reflectors or radiators;
and special fixtures for heating in the form of gas-logs, so called,
being semblances of fuel in log form in metal, asbestos, etc., and
supplied with gas piping, for fire-place use. Such use of gas, and
hence the manufacture of conveniences therefor, appear to be in the
main confined to the United States, especially as regards the larger
forms of apparatus. Of the eight different exhibits of gas-stoves and
gas-logs made at the Exhibition, purely as such, all but one were
presented by American manufacturers; a determination no doubt
owing to the fact that as thus far coal-gas (principally from its being
most ready of access) has been chiefly used, and as both the compar-
ative scarcity of coal itself and its higher cost of production augment
the cost of its products abroad, a general demand in this linfe has not
yet been created. It is yet matter of some doubt whether the products
of combustion, as occurring under circumstances where the direct
flames of the burning gas impinge upon metal surfaces, are not the
source of contamination from the large number of particles set free,
which more or less seriously affect the air of our rooms. The
requisites deemed essential to secure approval and award were such
thorough construction of parts as to render the escape of gas before
reaching the burner impossible, such adjustment of jets as to secure

a full supply of oxvgen to the flame, and such disposition of the

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GENERAL REPOJiT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIV. 7

flame as to prevent the super-heating of large metal surfaces. The
gas-stoves manufactured at Philadelphia in a variety of forms have
the serviceable and attractive feature, as applied to warming pur-
poses, of a burnished reflecting surface, heightening in marked de-
gree the radiating power, and lending an effect of geniality, of which
this form of heating apparatus was previously quite barren. It is
probable that the efforts which are now being made, and have been
made, to increase the completeness of combustion and the radiating
effect will be in the future the direction in which improvement will
be made. That an abundant supply of the cheaper gases for consump-
tion in this way may yet be furnished in convenient form, is also a de-
sideratum toward which effort will no doubt be directed. A lessened
cost of fixtures is also to be aimed at. The gas obtained from the
volatilization of certain hydrocarbonaceous oils, etc., and the fixtures
adapted for its use, either for warming or cooking, might properly be
considered here ; but, as for the most part they are directed to the
latter service, and as the fuel is supplied not as gas but in other forms,
they are perhaps more appropriately considered in another connection.
The introduction of this agent of house-warming is to be con-
sidered as essentially American, and as belonging to the more recent
achievements of its class ; while its features as furnishing a de-
lightful glow and radiance, and hence comfort and safety, in circum-
stances where either conditions or expense would prohibit other
means of securing like results, give it rank as an advance of very
considerable merit; and when additionally secured against all sanitary
objection, it must be counted an adjunct of " health, comfort, and
convenience'' of much worth.

HOT-AIR FURNACES, STEAM HEATERS, HOT-WATER HEATERS.
RADIATORS, Etc.

The demands for a larger volume and a better conservation of heat
than the conditions of fire-place warming permitted, appear to have
led at an early day to the design of close receptacles for fire and the
radiation of warmth. Early Chinese literature gives suggestions of
efforts in this direction. In Rome, in the days of the Empire, the
sUiba, or stove, seems to have been used as a fixed appliance for
baths, and in Scandinavia and Germany for heating baths and hot-
houses.

During the Middle Ages stoves appear, despite the retarded progress

of the time, to have been advanced to employment in the general

warming of habitations. In their construction economy of fuel was

evidently a chief consideration. They were made large and deep,

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8 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

often occupying the whole of one side of a room, being constructed
of brick, .tile, slate, and undoubtedly sometimes of steatite or soap-
stone. Attempts at more elaborate construction resulted in the em-
ployment of porcelain for highly-decorated tile fronts, tower shapes,
and the building of niches for statues of porcelain or bisque. In all
the fire was placed near the floor, and the heat and smoke caused to
circulate through several flues before final exit. They have under-
gone in some countries but comparatively little modification since
their earlier construction, except in the directions of portability, size,
and nicer relation of parts.

The Exhibition furnished in the Swedish department a later speci-
men of this porcelain architecture. Provision for a large supply of
fuel at one feeding was in some forms a prominent feature. Probably,
excepting some slight and vague reference to the labors of an Italian
monk in the seventeenth century toward the creation of an iron
heater, and one or two interpretations of earlier Latin authors with
reference to closed brass receptacles for fire, as heaters, there is no
earlier mention of attempts at the production of closed fire-places of
metal than of those of the Cardinal Polignac, of France, in 1709,
O. S. Under the nont de plume of Ganger, the cardinal in that year
published a treatise, entitled La Mecanique du Fer, on VArt d'en aiig-
mcntcr les Effets, et d^en deminner la Defense,

The Polignac fire-places had hollow walls, heaters, and iron jambs,
the chief effort clearly being to economize heat. In 1716 the work
of Desaguliers was undertaken, his improvements being based upon
the invention of Polignac, whose treatise he translated. In 1722
the so-called "hollowed stoves," the progenitors of the whole race
of *' box stoves,'* were introduced. Certain German improveipents
in iron fire-boxes appeared about 1740. In 1745 Benjamin Franklin
invented his great improvement, a fire-place capable of being entirely
closed, with a downward draught, passing the heat through side flues
till the little not utilized escaped with the smoke through a rear flue
in the chimney base; a sheet-iron "damper" in the descending flue
controlling the fire. The successive inventions of Franklin subse-
quent to 1770 greatly increased the range of close heaters, and the
prototypes of the later "base-burner" and "bituminous smoke-con-
suming furnace" were among these. In 1785 the labors in this
direction of that wonderful man, Benjamin Thompson, better known
as Count Rumford, began, and in connection with those of Franklin
established the principles since recognized as essential in all heating
apparatus.

In all the chief end has been the better economy of fuel and heat,

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIV, g

associated with conditions of convenience and attractiveness. The
labors of these two men may fairly be said to have furnished the
foundation for the marked supremacy of America in all heating appa-
ratus. Up to 1 812 the fuel consumed both in Europe and America
being principally either wood or bituminous coal, the long list of
special adaptations for anthracite, then considered ** incombustible
refuse," had not been undertaken.* Their stimulus was found in
the cutting off of the supply of foreign coals for American manufac-
tures during the war with Great Britain, in the year named, and a
necessary recourse to the home fields of anthracite. Thus much for
the genesis of the apparatus which has its relation chiefly to the
warming of our dwellings. The extensive and varied exhibit of heat-
ing apparatus at the International Exhibition of 1876 may be con-
sidered simply the multiplied development of the principles and
conditions which in the main had been established in 1830, nearly
half a century previous. It is clear, then, that requirements of
economy in fuel and heat, and the demand for a larger volume of
heat susceptible of direction at will, with the desire to dispense with
numerous fires and to remove the source of warmth without the
apartment, have been the stimulus of the design, since the advent
of coal as fuel, of various apparatus which should serve as central
sources of heat, so arranged as to permit the distribution of warmth to
designated apartments. Of this class the hot-air furnace is largely in
preponderance, and of this form of warming apparatus the Exhibition
•of 1876 undoubtedly presented the largest and finest representation
ever brought together.

" The hot-air furnace," says Dr. Derby, " is but a stove in another
form." The earliest definite mention of an apparatus having a promi-
nent feature of furnaces, viz., its partial location and arrangements for
the supply of fuel outside of the apartment to be warmed, is perhaps
found in the somewhat obscure reference, in Bunyan's Pilgrim's Pro-
gress, to what Christian saw in the House of the Interpreter, which
would seem to make its use antedate 1650. Dr. Franklin mentions
in 1745, as a German invention of that date, "an iron box. made of
five plates fastened together with screws, one side of which was left
open, but when the box was set, this open side, with the smoke-pipe,
was in an ante-room, while the body of the same projected through
the partition to warm a larger room, the fire being fed and the smoke
conducted off in the ante-room." Hot-air furnaces may in brief be

* The Chinese had, with their earlier discovery of the value of coal, made some use of
it, which is but vaguely recorded.

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lO INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

considered as more or less thoroughly encased stoves, placed outside
the apartment to be warmed, and communicating their heat through
conducting pipes. They act indirectly by warming air which passes
from them into rooms, and which should be drawn only from one
source — the fresh supply out of doors. As being simply readjust-
ments and elaborations of stove forms, the early history of stoves is
also theirs, and their separate consideration is incident only to their
later progress and special devices.

The requirements of a furnace per se are determined by certain
well-ascertained data in chemistry, metallurgy, and philosophy, and
as from time to time these data have been established, the effort in
the construction of hot-air furnaces has been to give them recognition
and adaptation.

Some of these determining facts, as affecting construction and asso-
ciate conditions, are worthy of brief enumeration as the rationale of
the somewhat rigorous demands made by this group of Judges upon
all furnaces exhibited. We note among them, —

1. The ascertained power of very highly heated metal and other
surfaces to slightly abstract the moisture from the atmosphere — in
other words, to promote evaporation and to certainly change the
relative humidity of the air by expansion.

2. The ascertained capacity of combustion to produce from fuel,
notably from anthracite coal, large amounts of carbonic acid and
carbonic oxide gases, with sulphurous acid and water vapor.

3. The fact that, when the combustion of anthracite is complete, the •
products are carbonic acid gas and water with slight sulphur fumes.

4. The fact that combustion rarely is complete in heating appli-
ances, and never unless the supply of air passing over and through
the fire is abundant.

5. The fact that carefully conducted experiments by such scientists
as Bernard, Guerand, Taylor, Watts, Leblanc. and Chenot, show that
carbonic acid to some extent, and carbonic oxide to a powerful degree,
are, when respired, either of them alone, but especially when mixed,
of the character of narcotic poisons.

6. The certainty, as established by St. Claire Deville and Troost,
of the French Academy, that certain metals, especially cast-iron, when
heated to a dull red heat, permit the passage of gases directly through
their substance, owing to the arrangement of their molecules or
atoms.

7. The fact that, from the expansions and contractions occurring
under the alternations of high and low degrees of heat, iron castings
must be more or less poorly in coaptation, the passage of gases

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIV, n

through their joints being but little retarded, while cast-iron is also
noticeably defective and porous in structure.

8. The fact that the denser metals, like wrought-iron, contain a
large per cent, of carbonic oxide, — a fact which, though its relations
are not yet understood, seems in some way to facilitate the passage
of the carbonic oxide produced in combustion into dwellings.

The effort of the group, in view of these determinations of science,
became chiefly to seek for the most successful adaptations of the
principles involved, and to bestow highest commendation upon such
as should possess them in the highest degree with the best associate
conditions of convenience and economy. To this end it was deter-
mined to require of any hot-air furnace that to receive fullest com-
mendation it should combine the following features:

1. It must be arranged for taking its supply of fresh air from out-
doors, because only such fresh air is fit for supply to dwelling-apart-
ments.

2. It must, to be most satisfactory, have least interference with
free combustion and the escape of the product of combustion into the
chimney, i>., no damper in the smoke flue, and no provision for the
cooling of the flue by admission of air between the fire and chimney,
e.g.^ as by a regulator; because to secure the removal of the danger-
ous elements, especially carbonic oxide gas, complete combustion,
and hence ready conversion into and utility as carbonic acid gas, must
be retarded by no agencies like these.

3. It must have its dome of wrought-iron, thoroughly bolted.
First, because of its avoidance of leaks in joints ; and, second, because
of its apparently lesser permeability to gases under heat.

4. It must have good castings, and, so far as possible, horizontal
joints. Because, first, the necessity for the absence of " pin holes"
and like defective structure is apparent; and, second, because there
is less expansion and contraction, and less separation and escape of
gases, with horizontal than with vertical joints, and " fittings" are
more perfect.

5. It must have only fire-brick or soapstone walls in contact with
its fire. First, because of the lessened evaporation thus caused ; sec-
ond, because the dull red heat of iron, so productive of carbonic
oxide, is thus avoided ; and, third, because of the absence of gas-
escape as occurring with the cast-iron pot.

6. It must have the most ample provision for the direct supply
of air through and above the fire-pot, so arranged as to best impinge
upon the combustion points. Because of the absolute necessity for
its presence to effect complete combustion, and hence the most rapid

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12 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

conversion of carbon into carbonic acid gas, and the largest economy
of fuel.

7. It must provide for a sufficient supply of moisture. First,
because in no other way can the tendency to evaporation, from the
atmosphere which, under some conditions and in some climates, the
furnace induces, be counteracted ; and, second, because this element
is imperatively demanded for conditions of health.

8. It must have a large cylinder as proportioned to the fire-pot
Because thereby the avoidance of a high temperature of the over-
arched iron is aided.

9. It should, if the previously named conditions are fully secured,
be provided with a non-conducting fire-proof encasement, as of hollow
tile, brick, or similar substance, for the conservation of locally radi-
ated heat; but not unless these conditions are secure. First, because
such conservation is a prime feature of economy, a point which must
always operate with either the purchaser or the scientist for obvious
reasons. Second, because thereby the heating of the cellar, where
furnaces are generally located, is, as a rule, undesirable, beyond the
point of simple dryness; and, lastly, the reason for not having such
encasement unless the dome be tight, etc. (see I, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and
8), is that the escape of deleterious gases into the larger area and more
ample dilution of oxygen in the cellar, and freer exit to open air,
must be far preferable to their concentrated conduct to the living-
apartments above.

ID. It should have the most effective and convenient arrangement
for the abstraction of clinkers and stirring up of the fire mass. First,
because of the better combustion thereby secured ; and, second, be-
cause of the more even and better regulation of temperature, in
addition to the merits of ease in its care.

II. It should combine the fullest and at the same time the sim-
plest appliances for the control and removal of ashes, dust, and soot,
as matters of convenience and as promoting the efficiency of the
furnace.

Of hot-air furnaces used purely as heaters the exhibit at the Exhi-
bition of 1876 was distinctively American, Europeans not having as
yet adopted to any extent this agency of house-warming.

The earlier forms of American furnaces appear to have mainly had
their origin in the vicinity of the anthracite coal fields. Of the fur-
naces exhibited, the half-score considered worthy of award were
nearly all designed and manufactured east of the anthracite regions.
The earliest full recognition of the requirements of the furnace,

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIV. 13

that it be of the closest construction and least permeability, seems to
have been found at the hands of a Philadelphian, Jesse Reynolds,
about the year 1853 ; and the features then adopted of wrought-iron
riveted domes had their expression in connection with furnaces built
by him and his associates, and are still continued. Multiplied modi-
fications of this and other forms in later years have been brought
forward, and had large representation at the Exhibition.*

All things considered, the nearest expression of the sanitary require-
ments indicated, the fullest economic provision, and the best and most
nearly automatic appliances for the care of ashes, dust, etc., in a fur-
nace, seem to be assembled in that manufactured by the Magee Fur-
nace Company, of Boston, for the burning of anthracite, and that of
Reynolds & Son, of Philadelphia. The former provides by ample
inducts for fresh '* out of doors" air in large volume, controls the
inlet of air beneath the fire, and has the largest supply directly to
the fire-mass ; has a large wrought dome, very superior castings and
joints, fire-brick lining, well pierced for air, facilitating quick conver-
sion of fuel, and some regard for moisture. Its arrangements for
the care of clinkers, ashes, and soot are peculiarly good; while its
double-wall terra-cotta encasement is unique. Its deficiencies are
first, the use of the ** damper'* and the *' regulator," both of which
might easily be dispensed with, as its control of fresh air below the
fire is readily made complete; and second, its want, like most other
heaters, of proper means of securing humidity, bypassing its warmed
air above water after leaving the furnace-dome. It may be considered
the nearest present approach to what a furnace should be, and, with
the improvements suggested, constitutes a standard realization of the
scientific requisites in its class. For the consumption of bituminous
coal and wood, the furnaces constructed by the Reynolds and others
of Philadelphia possess the required variations from the anthracite
standard in most satisfactory form, and are the best expression of the
advance made during the century in this direction. The furnace, for
anthracite, of Reynolds & Son excels in its superior and unique pro-
visions for the control of the air-current beneath the fire, being prac-

* The earliest coustruction of ihe wrought-iron dome furnace is in some doubt. Various
claims are laid to it. Dr. S. G. Howe, of Boston, early had one constructed for his own
use. The riveted boiler-iron dome was certainly in use in Philadelphia as early as 1833,
and was used in New York at about the same time. The largest recognition of its value
seems to have been arrived at by Reynolds, in connection with his other devices, about
1853, and received great impetus from the advocacy of Dr. Nichols, of Haverhill, Massa-
chusetts, some few years later. The experiments made by foreign savans do not appear
to have received much recognition at American hands until recent years, although pub-
lished some fifteen or twenty years since.

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14 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

tically air-tight at will, and in having no damper or cooling draft
between the fire and the chimney; in the shape, size, and construction
of its fire-pot, and its unequaled ** cutting and grinding grate."

The drift of that advance in this subdivision of heating apparatus,
it was evident from the entire range of exhibits at Philadelphia, has
been toward, first, security from the danger and loss shown to be
incident to combustion, especially of anthracite coal, under such con-
ditions ; second, larger conservation of heat ; and third, convenience —
an order of precedence eminently proper and desirable. That a like
bent and purpose will shape the efforts of the future in this connection
there can be no doubt, the relative order of importance being held
the same. In the line of greater sanitary advance the effort, it is
believed, will be to secure better methods of controlling the air as it
enters below the fire, abolishing thereby the necessity and use of the
damper and regulator; while it is also probable that satisfactory appli-
ances for causing the warmed air to receive moisture as it enters the
apartment will be introduced. In the direction of the larger economy
of fuel and heat in bituminous-burning heaters, better results in the
combustion of smoke and the conservation of dissipated heat are likely
to be the event ; while in the whole class of furnaces and heaters it is
not improbable that the effort at economy of fuel will take on the
feature of the use of fuel in finer subdivision, that the conversion into
the immediate elements of combustion may be more rapid, and hence
economical. This feature in time may be carried to the point of
supplying carbonic acid gas, as such, as a substitute for its crude
sources, the elaboration simply being performed elsewhere, and in
such amount as to effect great saving. If the large expense incident
to such a system can be overcome, there appears to be little else to
hinder its advent. The still better introduction of air to the fire-mass
is a probable aid to fuel-economy. The better conservation of heat
is sure of promotion in the future, by the freer use of the many new
and invaluable non-conductors, in which the Exhibition was rich,
especially for walls, for both retaining and conducting the heat locally
radiated.

Among the items of future improved convenience, apparatus for
the still better disposal of ashes, dust, and soot will be sought; and
although it is difficult to conceive of better aids in the cutting and
removal of clinkers than the grates exhibited by Reynolds & Son
and Bissell & Co., so long as their removal is laborious the effort at
greater facility will no doubt be made.

Comparing the old methods, the amount of fuel they required,
small heat evolved, and the degree of comfort derived, there was

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIV. 15

shown in the Exhibition a most gratifying progress, of which Ameri-
cans especially have a right to be proud.

STEAM AND HOTWATER HEATERS, RADIATORS, OIL STOVES.

The scientific demonstration of the wasteful and deleterious features
of old and imperfect methods of hot-air warming in dwellings, and
the common appreciation of these defects, led to the development and
introduction of steam and hot-water systems. Being free from the
dangers shown to be connected with the use of hot air, on the score
of health, both hot-water and steam pipes, when correctly adapted,
are unobjectionable. They furnish an abundant supply of fresh air
properly warmed and free from the risk of contamination by the pro-
ducts of combustion. Both require especial care in construction and
location, to prevent damage from leakage and freezing. The prime
requisite in a system involving the use of either is that the coils
through which the air is inducted to be warmed by the water or
steam should be situated outside the apartment warmed, preferably
beneath them ; and that the warmed air should be distributed thence,
and not by direct radiation in the rooms themselves.

The expense which debars these systems from common use has
limited them to comparatively small demand, and hence narrow range,
the representation at Philadelphia being chiefly American, although
foreign exhibitors were not wanting. It is to be regretted, however,
that the plan of employing direct radiators in the rooms to be heated
is the more common one, involving as it does disregard of sanitary
needs, and too frequently appliances at once dangerous, noisy, and
unhealthful. The approval expressed by the awards given in such
cases must be considered as comparative only, that alone being full
which is bestowed upon systems whose radiation is indirect.

Steam is principally employed by reason of its efficacy as a medium
for conveying heat to a distance from its source; and in both the
direct and indirect methods the effort has been to secure the largest
results from the surface heated. As saturated steam parts with its
heat only at the point of condensation, a good degree of inventive
genius has been exercised to provide for the water of condensation
under varying conditions of surface and altitude. The American
mind has been chiefly fertile in devices for these ends, and their rep-
resentation at the Exhibition of 1876 reflected special credit on this
class of production. A chief and constant effort has been, and will
increasingly continue to be, to reduce the prime cost of apparatus,
both for steam and its later congener, hot water. The regulation of

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1 6 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION^ 1876,

air-currents to and from the coils in the indirect method has as yet
received httle regard ; but in this direction, especially in provision
for the maintenance of the highest temperature of the air after leaving
the coil, it is probable that future effort will largely be made. The
wider use of these methods, made possible by a lessened original
cost of apparatus and the introduction of a cheaper fuel, would
materially aid, it is believed, in the solution of many sanitary and
economic problems connected with warming and ventilation. The
important item of radiators, both for direct and indirect employ, has
received marked consideration, principally at American hands, as was
manifest at the Exhibition.

The principal aim in all has been to secure the most efficient radia-
tion, rapid escape of water, and least noise. A most ingenious com-
bination of means to these ends, approaching as nearly as possible
perhaps, under present knowledge, to a standard in these particulars,
is found in the radiator manufactured by the Waltons, of New York.
Future efforts, so long as the direct system remains in use, will no
doubt be toward greater efficiency in the points mentioned.

Of hot-water methods of warming, it is not too much to say that
they promise, even in their comparatively recent introduction and
consequent crudity, to furnish the solution of the duplex problem of
house-warming and ventilation. Susceptible of meeting the best
hygienic conditions, and every requirement except those of churches,
halls, and similar rarely-used edifices, subject to no dangers except
that of frost, and most agreeable in effect as most widely avail-
able, hot-water warming will, it is believed, find rapidly-increasing
favor. Great improvements in its appliances have already been
.reached, and found most admirable expression at the Exhibition, and
the interest and inquiry now awakened in this most sanitary method
will inevitably lead to the wide approval and adoption of its merits.
The much smaller ratio of loss by radiation than that of steam, its
greater safety, and capacity for conveyal to long distances, as well as its
availability for all degrees of heat, of which steam is not susceptible,
are points which unmistakably determine its supremacy. The appa-
ratus long known as that of John Brown, of New York, and repre-
sented by the improvement of his successors, furnishes the type of its
class, and has met, especially with its later accessions of improved
coils, etc., the fullest approval of the Judges and of scientific men at
large.

The direction which future efforts at its improvement will take must

undoubtedly be towards a lessened first cost of apparatus (in which,

of course, many influences are concerned), its most successful adapta-

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIV. \y

tion to ventilation under all conditions, better distributing agents,
and such provision as shall secure only indirect use. It is highly
probable that the near future will witness the establishment of public
heating-works in towns, by which dwellings will be supplied with
hot-water circulation, a large economy of fuel and heat being effected.

RAILWAY HEATERS, GREENHOUSE HEATERS, REGISTERS.

Not the least important of the appliances for warming in the class
of hot-water heaters are those which during the last twenty years, in
constantly increasing variety and excellence, have been adapted to
rail-cars, steamships, and other vehicles of travel. By their intro-
duction, and later devices for safety, much of the danger from fire
incident to accident on railways, etc., from the heating apparatus has
been overcome. The International Exhibition, while not especially
rich in representations of this class, furnished in the modifications
of Howard, Bussell, and Duff, typical apparatus of American manu-
facture, exemplifying the progress already made in the direction of
comfort, economy, and safety in travel. The chief defect of this appa-
ratus lies in the necessity which compels it to act by direct radiation.

An application of the hot-water principle of very great merit, be-
cause long needed in the connection for which it was specially de-
signed, is that for the warming, by the circulation of hot water and
its direct radiation, the atmosphere of greenhouses, conservatories,
etc. Requiring the fullest freedom from carbonic oxide and sulphur
fumes, and calling for the best conservation of heat, the hot-water
method of warming, it is clear, has signal aptitude for the duty, and
so happily have the demands been met both by home and foreign
producers that the field is well occupied. As most effectively meet-
ing the considerations of economy, energy, convenience, thorough
construction, and small first cost, the modifications of Smith &
Lynch, of Boston, as exhibited at Philadelphia, fill both the sanitary
and general requirements in the highest degree, and their appliances,
including those for ventilation, have a wide adaptability in connection
with general heating, where direct radiation may, under the circum-
stances, be permissible. The special wants as to heating of railway
service and of in-door floriculture may be considered as well met in
the provisions offered in the Exhibition.

An appliance now become inseparable from the use of furnaces,

heaters, and all indirect steam and hot-water heating apparatus, and

largely in use in connection with all methods of warming, is the

" register," as it is called, which name for want of a better, though a

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1 8 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

misnomer, has come to generally indicate a most convenient agent
of control at the apartment apertures of all heat-ducts in dwellings.
In the points of construction, adaptability to various service, finish,
and degree of closure, it offers a wide and attractive variety as well
as much ingenuity, and the principal manufactures, chiefly American,
shown in the heating class at Philadelphia, are well worthy of men-
tion as indicating the progress of the last half of the century, in the
element of convenience, in apparatus of this kind.

As comprised within the group of so-called ** heaters,'* a compar-
atively new agent in the warming of apartments demands mention
here. The oil stove, standing by itself, wholly on account of its
character as an adaptation for the combustion of a peculiar fuel, has
interest as related to somewhat similar apparatus for burning gas,
already reviewed in another class, and also as being a suggestion of
the possible direction in which may turn the search for the more
ready elements of combustion alluded to.

Thus far in their history their province has mainly been that of
cookery, and in this connection they will be further considered ; but
their entry of the domain of warming has been so significant, and
withal so successful, that omission of mention of their capacity in
this field would be short-sighted. The possession of the chief
source of the world's supply of coal-oil, almost the only fuel used
in heating apparatus of this kind, has naturally given precedence to
American manufactures, the Exhibition furnishing but four foreign
exhibits of heating apparatus of this description, and only one for
the consumption of coarse or fat oils.

STOVES, COOKING-STOVES, KITCHEN-RANGES, AND FIXED APPARATUS

FOR COOKING.

We have already traced the genesis of stoves and the history of
their earlier forms. The improvement in their capacities for the ful-
fillment of the conditions exacted of them has been from the outset
steady, and of late years surprisingly rapid. When we compare the
facts that, as late as 1830, almost nothing of this variety had been
attempted, and that the manufacture was within the smallest limits;
with the splendid figures given by American founders alone, of
2,686,000 stoves manufactured in 1876, in an infinite variety, as evi-
denced by the Exhibition of that year, it is evident that the Jack's
beanstalk of juvenile literature only parallels such a growth. As an
industry employing in the same year 28,000 men, and producing
goods to the value of 1^47,040,000, the stove interest is one not readily
over-estimated.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIV. ig

The early " box'* and cylindrical cast-iron stoves have now but few
exponents in use except in wood-burning districts, and their more
widely-existing successor, the sheet-iron " air-tight/' is rapidly dis-
appearing from view. Their place, during the last twenty years in
particular, has been filled in the domain of warming apparatus ty
the long list of representatives of rolled-iron cylinders, with cast
bases, tops, etc., and fire-brick lined ; while the fire-place and " Dutch
oven" have in the realm of cookery almost entirely succumbed to the
successive advances wrought in cook-stoves, ranges, " gas-cooks,"
etc. The displays of the great improvements in stoves for heating
alone displayed at the Exhibition might properly be termed legion,
and their varieties of device for their several ends reckoned as in-
numerable. For their better review they were classified with reference
to certain general governing features, as base-burners, open stoves,
parlor-uprights, etc.

The bent of the improvements attempted in all classes, like those
indicated as essayed with hot-air furnaces, — their closest congeners, —
has been towards economy of heat and fuel ; consideration for sanitary
requirements, as established by scientific determinations; increased
convenience in use, and added attractiveness. In few particulars,
perhaps, of household belonging has so great and gratifying advance
been made. Inasmuch as for years, and no doubt always, there must
be a very large proportion of the population who will, from consider-
ations of economy and space, be obliged to use some form or other
of stove for warming their dwellings, the recognition of sanitary prin-
ciples lately obtained in most stoves, their arrangement for the largest
return for the fuel consumed, and their greatly enhanced attractive-
ness, must be considered as of no small moment. The gains thus
made will undoubtedly receive in the near future important new con-
tributions at many hands. As proved by the exhibits made in this
class, it is evident that there has ever been retained by all manufac-
turers of stoves in recent years a lively recollection of the cheerfulness
of the old open fire, which has prompted them to endeavor to give in
their products at least a glimpse of the glow within. This endeavor
has from time to time expressed itself in transparent doors or lines of
regulators, in the wider gleam of the " base-burner," and even more
recently in the return to the open fire-place furnished by such stoves
as the " Fire on the Hearth," already alluded to under Fire-places.
Associated with this desire for the radiant effect has long been that
of securing immunity for frequent renewals of fuel ; indeed, some
of the ancient forms of tile and porcelain stoves produced in the
Middle Ages possessed large fuel reservoirs, arranged for self-feeding,
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20 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

and the renewal in late years of similar agencies coupled with the
illuminating device has given rise to a variety of stoves known as
" Base-burners," which have come into large use, and under one
** make*' or another present different features for consideration. Of
this class there were no less than nine exhibits at Philadelphia of
American manufacture, and one (of impure type) of foreign produc-
tion.

The grand objection to the " base-burner*' lies in the fact that the
anthracite in its reservoir, being constantly subjected to the more or
less intense heat of the fire below, is under exactly those conditions
most favorable to the rapid production of carbonic oxide, which, un-
diluted to any extent by oxygen, is hardly hindered from passing as
fast as generated into the apartment. The evident evil of so direct
communication between the fire-pot gases and the air of rooms has
in some cases prompted the stove-founder to the use of agencies
which he has hoped would prevent constant escape, but which in
effect do no more than somewhat retard their passage. Sand-joints,
bevel-edged covers, and the like, are proved to be only untrust-
worthy expedients.

It was because of this important defect in the whole line of " base-
burners" that only a conditional and partial approval could be ac-
corded them, and it was a conviction of the Judges that not until
better safeguards than those at present are associated can this class
of stove meet sanitary requirements. The attractiveness, convenience,
and cheapness of these stoves have naturally given them a wide
introduction, and if their further improvement shall include efficient
means of control or removal of their dangerous qualities, and fur-
ther prohibit interference between the fire and the chimney, the
"base-burner," under its several titles of "Radiant Home," "Graphic,"
" Rising Sun," etc., will prove a valuable auxiliary to the warm-
ing of dwellings. Parlor stoves, so called, including the semi-fire-
place variety mentioned under the head of Fire-places, and largely
manufactured, have been constructed upon very various theories,
and are of multiplied devices. In all, certain well-known and long-
established conditions are represented, and the sole novelty of many
has consisted in trifling modification of form or appliance. Nearly
all, although well provided with fixtures for regulating the admission
of air beneath the fire, have also the objectionable back-damper, and
many have also adjustments for admitting air between the fire and
the chimney. Elegance of design and finish, with more or less regard
to the conservation of fuel and heat, are present in many, the old

Stewart, the Magee Standard, the Grossius school ventilating, and

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIV, 2 1

others being fair exponents of these among the numerous exhibits
at Philadelphia. The splendid display of Fuller, Warren, & Co., of
Troy, New York, was an indication of the magnitude and scope of this
industry. The tendency in future efforts at advance in this class of
warming apparatus seems to be towards greater recognition of sanitary
requirements, economy in first cost, use, and space, and also to finer
finish, greater attractiveness, and convenience. The comprehensive
movements that are likely to sooner or later accomplish the heating
of dwellings in towns and cities will inevitably drive out of use a
large percentage of stoves now employed, and the demand thus nar-
rowed will exact from future manufacturers the best attainable excel-
lence in all respects.

RANGES, COOK STOVES, OVENS, AND FIXED APPARATUS FOR COOKING.

The comparatively recent changes which have taken place in the
conveniences for cooking are perhaps quite as marked as any in the
accessories of the household. The facilities for the preparation of
food have had greater improvements in the last century than those
for warming alone; and it would be impossible in this space to follow
them. Some particular mention, however, is to be found under the
consideration of the class embracing Kitchen utensils.

In all, the requisites of health have received attention, while
economy and convenience have also been thought of Boiling, fry-
ing, and baking have become simple processes, while in the best
cook-stoves and ranges the mode of baking meats has much changed.

To carry on boiling without offense from steam or odor, to fry
without the latter, to bake evenly and with aeration and speed, to
roast with evenness and quickly, to be able to retain fire through
long periods at small cost, to obtain space without cumbrousness,
and in all economy and convenience, attractiveness and ease in keep-
ing in order, are the desiderata that cooking appliances must meet
• to-day to receive the approval of the housewife and the scientist. In
all apparatus burning anthracite the avoidance of its dangers must
determine their excellence.

The apparatus employed in cooking is ranged both by common
usage and the classification of the Bureau of Awards into Portable
and Fixed.

Under portable fixtures are placed all cook-stoves, ranges, gas- and
oil-cooking appliances, etc., and under permanent fixtures all set
ranges, ovens, and fixed apparatus. The difference established in
common parlance between cook-stoves and ranges, although not

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22 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

Strictly technical, consists in having in the latter the apertures in its
top for kettles and similar utensils *' ranged'* in longer parallels than
in the former, and does not, as in technical definition, relate to its
being fixed or "set." The cooking-stove manufacture of the last
twenty years has exhibited certain general features which have under-
gone comparatively little change. The chief of these has been the
location of the fire-pot and ash conveniences at one end, the oven,
etc., occupying the rest of the stove, a varying circulation of air about
the oven being attempted. In a large majority no circulation of air
through the oven was undertaken or permitted, and it was not until
the demonstration of Count Rumford, that this circulation, by which
roasting, instead of baking, was to be secured, was a feature of prime *
importance, that it began to receive general recognition. It is now
held essential to all good cooking apparatus.

The Magee ** Standard" range, manufactured at Boston, may be
taken as a type of the best application of this principle. This portable
range may indeed be taken as an exponent of the highest advance
in its class, and as such it received the fullest approval of both
American and foreign Judges. The foreign representation of this
class was very limited, and presented its chief excellence in the
exhibits made of strictly portable cooking apparatus, though in
"London Kitcheners," "grills," etc., both the foreign originals and
their American copies received, as they merited, much praise. The
marvelously smooth and artistic castings of several of the lines in
this class attracted much favorable comment. A new and already
important element introduced into the domain of cookery is found in
the various gas, oil, and gasoline " cooks," which have been brought
forward since the introduction of coal-oil. The " Florence Oil Stove,"
the Burnham " gas-cook," and the several forms of gasoline apparatus
seem to be forerunners of more diversified and perfect appliances
which will in time supersede the cook-stove and range. Economy
of fuel and room, quick results, and concentrated effects are the de-
siderata, and indicate the probable line of improvement.

The demand for ample cooking facilities which of late years has
arisen from large households, hotels, public institutions, passenger
steamers, etc., has called into existence the fixed ranges of various
makes, the steam-cooking apparatus, and the ship's-galleys, so liberally
represented at Philadelphia.

The fixed range is still susceptible of improvement in the direction
of economy and convenience, as well as of some sanitary improve-
ment, which will, no doubt, be sought by those seeking to perfect it
The steam-cooking apparatus of every description, from the common

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIV. 23

jacket-kettle of the farmer to the revolving and elaborate appliances
of hotels and asylums, really leave little apparent room for sugges-
tion, while the great shipVgalleys, like those of Walton Bros., of
New York, have already attained so great a degree of excellence,
with economy in construction and use, that the U. S. Government,
which formerly built its own for its navy, has ceased manufacture,
finding it cheaper and better to purchase of this make.

The advances made not only in the appliances and utensils (of which
further mention will be made) but also in the methods of the prepara-
tion of food, great as they are, can only be considered as in their in-
fancy. The indications of further changes have been noted, and it is
more than probable that the present century will see the adoption of
more comprehensive systems for warming, ventilating, and cooking,
accomplishing greater uniformity and healthfulness of results, large
economy, and better general conditions. To this end the Exhibition
of 1876 will have largely contributed.

CLASS 223. — Apparatus for Lighting: Gas-Fixtures, Lamps,
ETC. Ventilating Apparatus. Water-Supply Apparatus : Pipes.
Faucets, Filters, Hot-Water Boilers, Water-Backs, and PluiM-
bers' Goods generally. Drainage: Pipes, Traps, and Sewer-
connections and apparatus. abattoirs, and accessories for
Utilization of Refuse. Disinfectants in the Sanitary Appli-
cation. Odorless Excavating Apparatus in their Sanitary
Relations.

apparatus for LIGHTING: CJAS-FIXTURES, LAMPS, Ere.

Our present purposes do not render it either necessary or desirable
to consider in detail the several theories of the genesis of light, or to
any considerable extent its especial properties. With it, as an exist-
ing entity long the prime factor in the field of illumination, and its
numerous adaptations there, we have chiefly to deal. Moreover, to
sketch faithfully the rise and progress of the agencies whereby man
has sought to make darkness light about him would require far
greater space than the limits of this report afford, and, interesting as
it would prove, is not, in detail, essential to a proper review of the
representation made at Philadelphia of the state of the art.

The efforts of the student of illumination, whether philosopher or
mechanic, have been —

a. To secure abundant and cheap materials of the greatest light-
producing capacity, capable of readiest ignition.

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24 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

b. To develop forms of apparatus for their use which should most
efficiently produce illuminating effects, combined with economy,
safety, convenience, and attractiveness.

The search for illuminating materials was of course the original
necessity, and first produced the candle, which from time imme-
morial has been the simplest and crudest artificial illuminator. This
and the oil- or grease-lamp, which early came into use, seem long to
have been the sole lighting agents.

For centuries the effort seems to have been rather toward multiply-
ing and elaborating candelabra and lamps than toward gain in the
light itself Certainly, neither results nor records remain to testify
of such improvements in illumination beyond those that provide for
multiplied lights. As early as B.C. 221, however, Hero of Alexandria
intimates that some efforts at mechanical aids to the quantity and
quality of light had been attempted, all relating to a better supply of
oil to the wicks of the lamps, which were at that day chiefly relied
upon for light. Phny informs us that vegetable oil was principally in
use, sometimes with liquid bitumen. The lamps were mainly terra-
cotta and metal, and hung by chains to bronze candelabra, which
Tarentum and iEgina were famed for making in great elegance. The
lamps were principally flat, oblong, or round vessels, with a small
handle at one end, and a little nose or projection at the other, with a
hole forming a nozzle, and a central opening, into which the oil was
poured. In all the older lamps crust from the oil formed constantly
upon the wick, and required the frequent use of a picker. Till within
the century just closed the means of illumination underwent no marked
change, candles and the simple oil-lamp and wick furnishing the
only available lights. Leland says with truth that ** none of these
lamps gave a good light, and the majority of the poorest persons of
the younger generation, especially in our cities, have literally no idea
of the limited artificial illumination, even of the rich, before the days
of gas, camphene, lard-oil, and hydrocarbons."

The state of high illumination, as represented at the Exhibition
of 1876, has been reached within the last century, and American
genius has been in some, if not all, of its departments the chief con-
tributor to the success achieved, although in the early scientific efforts
at the improvement of light, on which the later advances have been
based, France and Great Britain bore a leading part ; though our own
Benjamin Thompson, Count Rumford, .so actively useful in the whole
range of .science, contributed to this one of its chief elements, the
splendid aid of the multiple wick.

M. Aime Argand, as late as 1784, discovered the secret of ampli-

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIV, 25

fying light in furnishing by means of a circular form a double current
of air to the burning wick; increasing and steadying the flame, which
he further aided by means of a glass chimney. Hundreds of the
myriad lighting devices since invented are modifications and re-
adaptations of these two features.

Keir, Quinquet, Rum ford, Carcel, Arago, Teulere, Fresnel, and a
hundred others in France, Great Britain, and America, rapidly fol-
lowed with inventions of greater 6r less importance, Diacon furnish-
ing the improved lamp for years most popular in America, and cele-
brated in Wood*s singular novel describing the adventures of a lady
in search of a really good lamp.

The transition from the candle and vegetable oils was not effected
till a late day ; lard- and whale-oils and ultimately spirits, as alcohol
and camphene, came into wide use, and from these to hydrogen gas
and the mineral oils has been a comparatively rapid and recent step,
and a most important one. The discovery of the large deposits of
petroleum in America has been largely responsible for the rapid
advance made in the perfection of common lighting apparatus, while
the introduction of hydrogen gas as a brilliant illuminator has entirely
changed the character of the means employed. The generation of
lights of intense brilliancy by chemical and electrical agencies marks
the furthest advance in illumination yet attained, and completes the
marvelous contrast in this field between the opening and the close
of the century.

Except for special uses, where economy, taste, or peculiar condi-
tions call for its service, the candle has naturally disappeared, and
where retained, has so changed its character in its new forms of sper-
maceti, stearine, paraffine, wax, etc., as to be quite unrecognizable
as the ancient "dip." The candles now in use — and the Exhibition
was rich in them from various nationalities — are almost exclusively
** moulded," wax being the chief exception. Their greater hardness
and uniformity of material, as well as their improvement in wicks,
renders them far preferable for all ecclesiastical and portable uses to
former ones, while their character as standards of photometric power
has undergone obvious change. The unit of artificial light has long
been established as the light of a candle, but the rapid changes and
improvements of these standards has necessitated a determination of
what the candle itself, to be such a test-unit, should be. The test
candle of photometry is now a candle so burned as to consume 120
grains per hour, and many of the improved forms of chandlery fill
these requirements.

The common single-wick oil-lamp, burning the heavy vegetable or

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26 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

animal oils, has passed, except in the most remote sections, entirely
into disuse, and even there the rapid advance of coal-oil is displacing
it. Only a very few exhibits, and those from abroad or for specific
uses (as in arctic regions), were found in the Exhibition for con-
suming grease or heavy vegetable and animal oils. This form of
lamp, from the earliest days to within a few years almost the only,
as it was also the poorest, of lighting agencies, may be considered
as having served its day and become obsolete.

There were shown by foreign and American manufacturers more
than ninety exhibits of lighting apparatus, besides candles, at Phila-
delphia, designed for dwelling, public edifice, street, railway, ship,
light-house, hand, and special use, by far the larger part of course
being intended for the needs of the household. The range of this
apparatus comprised chiefly appliances for the consumption of mineral
oils and hydrogen gas, with liberal exhibits of candelabra, burners,
chimneys, shades, etc.

Manufacturers of lamps seemed to aim to secure that supply of air
to the wick, and direction of it upon the combustion points, which
should produce most light. Indeed, this feature must be held as
essential to a good burner, whether for oil or gas. Safety to life and
health, and fidelity of construction and correctness of design in gas-
fixtures and lamps, were made matters of careful inspection. Finish
and convenience were incidental points for approval. It is probable
that never before were so varied and elegant collections of gas-fixtures
or improved lamps and accessories brought together, and the task
of rightly examining and approving was neither brief nor easy. The
older forms and styles of finish in gas-fixtures, except among the
foreign exhibits, were singularly absent, and new devices and pat-
terns constituted much the larger part of the splendid array, which
was chiefly of American workmanship, although most creditable
exhibits in certain lines were made by foreign houses, notably the
English, French, German, and Swedish.

Associated with the large display of gas-fixtures were the articles
of ecclesiastical ware, which are their congeners, and, as they formed
part of the representation, they were, by instruction of the Bureau of
Awards, at a late hour of the Exhibition included in the review.

Of gas-fixtures and accessories there were some half-dozen promi-
nent and most comprehensive exhibits, those of Mitchell, Vance, &
Co., the Archer Pancoast Manufacturing Company, and Cox, of New
York, Cornelius & Sons, and Baker, Arnold, & Co., of Philadelphia,
and Hart, of London ; while in crystal fixtures the displays of Jas.
Green & Nephew, of London, and of the Mount Washington Glass

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIV. 27

Company, specially excelled. It was found that not only a somewhat
exact knowledge of the laws governing the diffusion and absorption
of light, but also much of technical and mechanical familiarity were
demanded for a proper appreciation and discrimination in the exten-
sive range presented by these lar^e exhibits in iron, spelter, brass,
bronze, steel, and crystal, while unique specialties in each required
definite and critical examination and comparison with the general
standard set up in the mind of the Judge. The burners, chimneys,
shades, regulators, slide-lights, etc., required close examination, not
always resulting in satisfactory determinations. The gas-fixture itself
was of necessity separate in consideration from its burner, and must
be estimated by its material, construction, convenience, finish, and
general effect, while its burners and shades were to be examined
with reference to their supply of oxygen to the flame, delivery of
light, and condition for service, these being, moreover, affected by
the conditions under which the gas burned was manufactured and
delivered to them. It was impossible also to avoid some recognition
of the aesthetic effect produced by single or grouped examples. Of
lamps in their almost limitless variety and purpose, the requirements
though in the main 'similar were often special, and embraced con-
siderations of photogenic capacity, safety, convenience, economy,
cost, and fitness for their purposes.

Under all the requirements exacted in gas-fixtures the whole ex-
hibit of Mitchell, Vance, & Co., of New York, most fully met the
approval of the Judges. In the specialties of colored ecclesiastical
ware and slide-lights, that of the Archer Pancoast Manufacturing
Company was the best; in brass goods of the later designs and
finish the productions of Baker, Arnold, & Co., of Philadelphia, were
superior; while the crystal fixtures of Jas. Green & Nephew, of
London, and the Mount Washington Glass-Works, of Massachusetts,
stood unequaled. In lamps, the special requisites of each class
render separate standards of comparison inevitable, and the deter-
mining of excellence was both tedious and difficult. The great
majority of exhibits, as would naturally be expected, were of lamps
for household uses, designed principally for the burning of coal-oils.
The determinations of science as to photogenic force and the lia-
bility to accident by explosion, demonstrated in common use, have
furnished the chief indications of the proper direction for inquiry as
to relative excellence, while points of convenience and economy enter
incidentally into the conclusion. As more economical of oil, the flat
wick in lamps, producing a good although not the highest degree of
illumination, is most commonly employed, and both the amount of

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28 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

light furnished and the immunity from danger are found to be
largely dependent upon its adjustment and surroundings. These
features belonging peculiarly to the burner, its character would seem
alone to establish merit or demerit under the heads named, but there
resides in other parts of the lamp such influence upon these, that it
is as a whole that the lamp is most properly examined. The height
and shape of the lamp, the material of which it is constructed, the
perfection, adjustment, and security of its fittings, the size, shape,
length, and thickness of its chimney, the position, material, and
opalescence of its shade, and its absorbent power, the nature of its
reflector, — if it has one, — the conveniences for cleaning, filling, light-
ing, and regulating it, all are points which immediately concern both
its power for luminous effect and its safety and facility of use, and all
require consideration in determining its merit. Many of the common
lamps exhibited were entitled to approbation in most particulars,
those receiving fullest approval whose shape and form of neck retained
their oil so near the surface as to leave little room for gas accumu-
lation above, and were so constructed for the free supply of oxygen
and its minute division as to maintain freest combustion with coolest
condition of the metal parts of the burner. It has been indisputably
established by the experiments of Dr. Baker, of the State Board of
Health of Michigan, that the dangers of explosion reside in the
generation of gases above the oil in the lamp, which may remain at a
comparatively low point, say not above 85°, and that this generation
is due chiefly to the influence of the heated metal parts of the burner.
This difficulty of the overheating of parts was met, in the use of
heavy oils, by Carcel, by pumping oil up to the wick and causing
it to overflow and cool the burner. This is, of course, impossible
with the hydrocarbonaceous oils as at present burned, and recourse
must be had to other agencies for its prevention. What is known as
the '* Sun" burner, and that known as the " Drummond" burner of
Lovell, seem best to attain the ends sought — the former by its sub-
division of air and distance from the oil, and the latter by its arrange-
ments of air and absence of chimney. The lighting apparatus known
as the German Student lamp, of which there were several styles on
exhibition, affords, when properly constructed, one of the best agents
for shedding light for those occupations of the household which are
confined to a given spot, as sewing, reading, etc. Being arranged
for the amplest supply (short of mechanical forces) of air by double
current to the wick, having its supply of oil furnished under air-
pressure and its circular wick susceptible of exact adjustment, the joint
inventions of Kluman, of Prussia, and Hinrichs, of New York, offer

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIV, 29

a lamp that both in regard to its illumination power scientifically con-
sidered, and its provisions of safety, convenience, and elegance, has
thus far no superior. The somewhat similar device of Perkins &
House presents certain variations of more or less merit. To Mr. C. F.
A. Hinrichs, of New York, whose exhibition was a comprehensive one
in this style, large credit is due for successive improvements of great
value. The adaptation to a lamp for table use of the principles and
their appliances originally arranged for light-house service by Captain
H. H. Doty, an American engineer, has furnished a light of superior
power and brilliancy, which, though as yet but little known, appeared
to the Judges likely to meet a popular approval as generous as that
already accredited it in scientific light-house circles. The Berford
"sunlight** for house use, consisting of a gas flame over a transparent
bowl filled with water, received the approbation of the Judges, as did
also the somewhat similar hydro-dioptric light of General Meigs,
U. S. Army, which substitutes a globe filled with water for the bowl,
and makes the flame movable at will about it, furnishing a soft but
concentrated light at a desired point. The subject of lighting the
streets of towns and cities has long received much attention, but only
recently has received such elucidation as combined efficient light,
economy, convenience, and attractiveness. The Exhibition, while not
rich in the number of aids of the kind, offered a fair representation
of the older and the later methods and appliances. The latter in-
cluded the exhibit of J. W. Bartlett. of New York, of gas post-lan-
terns, with patent torch and key for convenience in lighting and
extinguishing, and the apparatus of the Globe Gas-Light Company,
for the use and volatilization of hydrocarbonaceous oils, both of which
excel in their respective types. The former has its chief excellence
in the shape, construction, and material of its lantern, which being
almost wholly of glass and permitting the freest admission and escape
of oxygen, permits a better and steadier flame than older devices and
at the same time a much enhanced diffusion of the light. The Globe
apparatus consists of a reservoir of hydrocarbonaceous oil fixed
upon the post-lantern at a safe distance from its burner, to which its
contents are conveyed by a pipe, being volatilized at the burner, the
resulting gas feeding the flame and thus contributing to the street-
lighting of places without regular gas-supply, an agent which, when
properly cared for, provides at a less cost than that of gas an equiva-
lent light.

The needs of railway and steamship service, both for outside and
inside use, have long been recognized, but — the latter especially — very
inadequately met. The Exhibition of 1876, however, produced ccr-

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JO INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

tain exhibits in both branches of employ which received the highest
commendation of the Judges. Lanterns of both the larger and the
more portable varieties had no lack of representatives for railroad,
ship, and mine, signal and common use. The cases of Walton
Brothers and Miller & Eastmead, of New York, furnished all patterns
in unrivaled excellence of design and finish. For car and cabin use,
the special adjustments of Hinrichs, on "student-lamp" principles,
of Creamer & Howard, were of greater or less merit ; but none of
them at all compared, under photometric test, for illuminating power
with the car and ship lamps of the Hitchcock Lamp Company, of
Watertown, New York, a mechanical apparatus which supplies its
heavy oil to the wick by pump, and its air by fan, and is a marvel of
mechanical aid to illuminating effect.

In light-house service the splendid accomplishment of Doty, pro-
viding for the use of mineral oils with their large economy and relia-
ble results in this most important branch of illumination, was the
distinctive exhibit as such (the results of Fresnel and others being on
non-competitive exhibition in the Government Department). This
apparatus, which has received the approbation and adoption of various
foreign scientists and governments, reflects honor alike upon its in-
ventor and America, as the first successful invention obtaining the
highest order of results in the burning of mineral oils in light-houses.

The calcium light had but one representative, and to this as the
latest exponent of scientific advance the highest award was accorded.
In burners, chimneys, shades, wicks, and reflectors the exhibitions were
neither inconsiderable nor unimportant. The automatic burner of
Rollins, for regulating the supply of gasj received the approval of the
Group with others, as did also that of Lovell, the "Sun burner" and
others, for oil; Argand's, Carcel's. multiple and single "bat's wing,"
and straight burners, presented points of excellence not enumerable
here. In chimneys no small thought and experiment, at home and
abroad, was manifest, thousands of forms having been attempted to
determine and secure the best results in directing the flow of air about
the wick. In shades, both with reference to their powers of absorp-
tion and transmission of light and external beauty, a wide range was
presented. The plain, opal, and decorated ware of the Mount Wash-
ington Glass-Works, and of Smith Brothers, of New Bedford, Massa-
chusetts, and the wonderful production in this class of Minton and
others of London, and of the French exhibitors, were optically and
artistically entitled to the highest commendation. The special con-
tributions of wicks were very few, but quite a variety in connection

with different lamps was exhibited, including novelties of more or less

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIV. 31

merit in concentric and flat wicks, the "Centennial wick** of Lovell,
of New York, being in its class an improvement.

Of reflectors, both of silvered glass and metal, there Were several
patterns of much merit. That of August Wilhelm involved in a high
degree the best scientific determinations as to form, arrangement of
surfaces, and construction, and that of the American Reflector Com-
pany in shape and workmanship met approval.

The exhibit of the Bradley & Hubbard Manufacturing Company, of
New York, presented novelties in lamp construction and accessories
of special excellence and wide variety, in all of which superior work-
manship and fidelity of construction were evident. In iron and spelter
permanent fixtures for gas. and oil their exhibit stood unexcelled.

Although neither in gas nor oil metal-fixtures did the exhibits of
foreign contributors attain so high a degree of excellence as those of
American exhibitors — as might, from obvious reasons, be expected —
Great Britain must be given the palm in crystal-work, while in
brass fim'sh it was well contested. In the finer manipulation of glass
and porcelain lamps and shades of all kinds, and especially in their
decoration. Great Britain, France, Germany, and Sweden notably
excelled.

The direction of efforts at future improvements in lighting appa-
ratus will unquestionably be, in gas-fixtures, toward better provisions
for the distribution of oxygen to the flame, resulting in increased
brilliancy and steadiness; greater security from the accidental escape
of gas (which will doubtless be better purified), and a more efficient
provision for automatic control, by the burner, of the pressure in the
pipes. Better media for conveying gas from permanent fixtures to
others for temporary use are needed, and will in time be furnished.
Improved agents of refraction and reflection are probable, and beyond
doubt efficient carburetting of gas, and its production from new and
cheaper sources than present ones, will mark the future. In the con-
sumption of mineral oils, a broad field for advance lies open, and will
encourage successful effort. The improved distribution of oxygen to
the flame, higher illumination, and such construction and combination
of parts as will effect greater safety, are to be looked for.

VENTILATION.

So many theories and plans, and so much complex apparatus have
been brought forward in ventilation, most of which have in applica-
tion resulted unfavorably, that the public has despaired of the exist-
ence of a science which might be appealed to with certainty in given
cases.

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32 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876,

The laws of sound ventilation are, —

a. That each adult must be supplied with about 3000 cubic feet of
fresh air per hour.

b. That the air he receives shall be distributed through so large a
cubic space as not to require at the outside more than five or six re-
newals per hour to reach the amount named, inadmissible drafts being
thus avoided.

c. Air to be distributed with the best results must enter a room
warmed at the bottom, and find its chief exit by apertures near the
floor.

There were but half a score of special designs or apparatus for
ventilation displayed at the Exhibition, two being diagrams or plans
of systems proposed. The first of these, by Mr. Lewis W. Leeds, of
New York, well known as a scientific engineer of ventilation, was a
comprehensive and able representation of conditions of ventilation,
well provided for on recognized principles, and received the highest
approval of the Judges. The other was simply a plan of the ventilation
system of a public institute. The design and apparatus of Mr. George
R. Barker, of Philadelphia, whereby warm air from a furnace enters
through the upper half of a wall -register, and its current aids the
escape of foul air, by an under duct leading from the lower half of
the same register, was approved by the Judges as well calculated for
its purpose. The Wagner ventilator, designed for attachment to the
glass of a window-pane, a perforation being made for the flow of air
through the pane, was found to be of some eflRcacy as an auxiliary of
ventilation, as were also the devices for window-sash ventilation of
the Protective Ventilating Company, J. C. Bates, and others.

WATER-SUPPLY APPARATUS ; PIPES, FAUCETS. FILTERS, HOT WATER
BOILERS, WATER-BACKS, AND PLUMBERS' GOODS GENERALLY.

The house portion of the appurtenances of water-supply to com-
munities was assigned to this group, and those appliances which
furnish, retain, and conduct water for domestic use within the dwelling
may be considered here.

The extended and varied list of devices presented in this class of
exhibits is the result of intelligent efforts, on both sides the Atlantic,
to furnish the accessories of water-supply in economical, convenient,
safe, durable, and automatic form. Convenience and durability
coupled with safety in use have been the chief points of concern,
and the rapid advance of the last ten years especially was observed
by the Judges of the group.

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIV. 33

The pipe system without the house being under the more especial
consideration of another group, the service-pipes alone came under
review, and of these the exhibition, though not large, was creditable
both in iron and the softer metals. The lead-pipe of Tatham Bros,
was of very superior character, and in its class was a fair representa-
tive of what lead-pipe should be. An Australian exhibit of block-tin
and tin-lined pipe was also noticeable for its excellence. The enameled
wrought-iron service-pipe of the National Tube Works, of Boston, in
its unexcelled appearance and apparent special fitness for its use,
deserves popularity if its joints shall be found to be satisfactory. It
received mention in another group, but, as being intended also for
house use, comes within the proper scope of this report, and received
commendation.

The faucets shown, as most important water accessories, were both
numerous and of high character. There were few foreign exhibits, and
these were by no means up to the standard assumed by the Judges.
The Fuller patent cock received approval, and, although several others
approached its excellences, was held to most satisfactorily combine
the requisites demanded. The Meyer faucet and anti-freezing hydrant
were in their kind subjects of award, as possessing the prescribed
conditions for security and durability. The Blessing patent bath-cock,
an ingenious adaptation for bath use, also secured award. The
splendid exhibit of Cooper, Jones, & Cadbury, of Philadelphia, was
evidence of the wide range of device and excellence of finish attain-
able, while that of Henry C. Meyer & Co.. of New York, showed
ingenuity and fine workmanship. Among the novelties in faucets,
special devices of wood and crystal were exhibited well adapted to
definite purposes. Present hygienic and economic considerations for
conveniences for water-supply and drainage demand that form of
apparatus which most certainly prevents the waste of fresh water,
and cuts off communication with sewers after foul water has been
discharged into them. As the latter, to be most effectual, must be
automatic, it necessitates the same characteristic in the former, and
hence the automatic faucet is already receiving approval and adoption,
which, with the spread of information on these points, must be largely
increased. One of the chief concerns of a city is the waste of its
water-supply, and the self-closing faucet, it will soon be understood,
is a most valuable aid to its prevention. The item of filters in con-
nection with water-service, though but few were exhibited at Phila-
delphia, was, in the few varieties shown, worthy of consideration, and,
it is believed, will lead to larger study of their uses with beneficent re-
sults. The filtering media in all included charcoal or spongio-kaolin,

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and on trial all were found to accomplish satisfactory results. The
rapidly-increasing contaminations of our domestic water-supply are
fast rendering it necessary that all available intermediate agents for
freeing it from suspended matters shall be brought into use, and as
being steps in the right direction, although all in themselves of small
capacity, except those of Tellicr, of France, and Cheavin, of England,
they received award. The latter are of large capacity and effective-
ness. The multiple filter of Tellier is an elaborate and scientifically-
constructed apparatus, which is highly efficient in its work, but will
undoubtedly be simplified in future improvement.

Several hot-water boilers, as adapted to the hot-water supply of
dwellings, were shown in the Exhibition, all but one being Amer-
ican. Those of Steeger, of New York, and Blessing, of Philadelphia,
received awards. These agents for the heating of water and its cir-
culation through its pipe-systems in domestic use, whether of iron,
copper, or other metal, have of late years come into greatly extended
use, and are objects deserving special consideration as having power
to affect considerably the " health, comfort, and convenience" of our
homes. As their strength should be proportioned to the pressure, it
is important that in use they shall be equal to the service to which
they are devoted, and the most perfect fidelity in their manufacture
becomes imperative. Their effectiveness depending also upon their
flue-surface, it is probable that improvements in this particular will
be made. As attached to the fire-pots of kitchen-ranges and as at
present constructed, their use is confined to the simple heating of
the direct circulation to and from the bath-tubs, faucets, etc., where
hot water is used. Future improvements will perhaps so amplify
their capacity for heating that with possibly slight increase in the
size of boilers they may also be utilized in the warming of small
spaces, as conservatories, or bath-rooms, otherwise unheated.

Bath-tubs form an important part of the apparatus connected with
water-supply, and those shown at the Exhibition were especially well
deserving. The contributions in this class were not numerous, and
were chiefly of home production, though four foreign exhibits were
included, the latter, however, being inferior both in workmanship and
finish to the American. The nickel-plated copper tub of Peter Car-
rigan, of Philadelphia, was, in its character of construction and finish,
a standard, while those of Blessing, of Philadelphia, having the com-
bination-cock alluded to, W. S. Carr and Steeger, of New York, each
received the commendation of the Judges.

The constant effort of inventors and manufacturers of sanitary ware
has been to overcome certain defects and institute certain improve-

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIV. 35

ments in household lavatories, basins, etc. To secure the rapid dis-
charge of foul water from bowls, to prevent the clogging of exit
pipes, to provide against the ingress of sewer-gases, and to econo-
mize both water and soap has been their study. In the "tip-up"
basin of Geo. Jennings, of London, the desired results have been
largely accomplished, and in many particulars it may serve as a
standard. The bowl being hung upon lateral pivots, and suspended
by these in an outer or jacket-bowl, it may be " tipped'* at pleasure,
and its contents at once and completely discharged into the bottom
of the outer bowl, whence they flow off through a well-protected
opening in the bottom, by the trapped pipe, the bowl being held to
a proper level by a rubber-guarded " preventor," against which it
strikes. The handle by which it is tipped being hollow forms its
" overflow." The latest, and in some particulars best, invention pre-
sented in this class was the Waring " Safety" basin, manufactured by
A. G. Myers, of New York. It seeks to render absolutely impossible
the ingress of sewer-gas either by the bottom discharge-pipe of the
bowl or by its ** waste" or *' overflow." Provided with self-closing
faucets, no overrunning of the bowl could easily take place, but if
these are absent the ** overflow" is efficient, and both this and the dis-
charge-pipe aro closed by fixtures that are open only when held open,
and that are only closed the tighter by any pressure of sewer-gas
beneath, so that no opportunity ever occurs for the escape of gas
into the apart mtat. Its adjustments are simple, efficient, and in-
genious.

DRAINAGE: PIPEii, TRAPS, SEWER CONNECTIONS AND APPARATUS.

From a remote period the conveyal of excreta and other refuse to
remote places of deposit by water-carriage through open or closed
drains or sewers has been practiced, and the surcharge of water in
soil desired for agricultural purposes has also been withdrawn by
drainage-pipes. Whatever the later deductions of medical and eco-
nomic science may indicate with regard to the undesirability of such
disposal of excreta, existing widely as these agencies do, in the
absence of better means they must long continue in use. In agri-
culture there can be x\o doubt of the value of drainage.

A considerable number of exhibits of drain-pipe, traps, etc., were
presented by both foreign and American producers. Among British
exhibitors, the Doulton-of- Lambeth vitrified pipe and that of Scotch
makers were without rivals among foreign exhibitors. Among Amer-
ican producers, the wares of the Moorehead Clay-Works, of Phila-
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36 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

delphia, and of N. U. Walker, of Ohio, were approved. The effort
has been to produce pipe that would resist superincumbent pressure
and effects of frost, remain impervious to the action of sewage, or
gases, or solvents, offer least friction and obstruction, permit closest
coaptation, and be freest from defective structure. The degree of
artistic finish and mechanical perfection to which they have been
brought, as demonstrated at Philadelphia, is surprising, and the
special shapes and adaptations for peculiar use seem to provide for
any contingency. The vitrified pipes of the makers named were sub-
jected to the severest tests of weight, acid solvents, and heat to
determine their individual relative approach to the standard set up.
Certain inherent characteristics in the material of the old Scotch
pipe afforded matter for curious inquiry, and the glazing, whether
" slip," salt, or lead, was subject of much careful testing. The heat
test was not deemed of much practical significance except in relations
to steam or fire proximity in use, but was the crucial one for certain
makes of pipes, which melted entirely under its intense application.
The " slip" glazing was held to best fulfill the desired ends. Vitrified
traps of various devices, provision for ventilation being embraced in
some and neglected in others, were liberally displayed both by home
and foreign exhibitors. Certain German manufacturers, although
their exhibits were small, received approbation for their contributions
to this class. Invert blocks and sectional parts were abundantly
represented. The importance of well-constructed joints, and of all
aids to the control of sewer-gases, seemed to be carefully studied.

Disinfectors for the distribution of neutralizing agents to sewage
are properly considered in connection with drainage, and though but
two specimens of this type of apparatus were exhibited, both, as per-
forming good and efficient service, deserve mention. The "dis-
infector" of Jennings, of London, acting on principles well understood
in physics, is so operated by the discharge apparatus of the water-
closet as to deliver the disinfectant into the bowl of the closet as
often as desired. Its action is reasonably certain and efficient. The
" disinfectors" of W. F. Wheeler, of Philadelphia, are contrivances
whereby the flow of the water to urinals, water-closets, and sinks is
made to act as the solvent of disinfecting agents in saponaceous
form, contained in ingeniously constructed and exceedingly com-
pact, simple, and elegant receptacles through which the water passes.
Their simplicity, and the really efficacious way in which, under the
observation of the Judges as applied to the Exhibition Buildings,
they seemed to act, elicited high commendation. Of apparatus in
connection with sewers adapted for their cleansing, but one exhibit

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XIV, 37

was made, that of Field's flush tank, introduced by Mr. A. G. Myers,
of New York. The design of this simple but effective instrument is
to suddenly discharge by pneumatic aid the contents of a larger or
smaller tank in which the waste waters of the household shall have
gradually accumulated into the sewer, thus flushing out the sediment
lodged therein. The design is a good one.

In water-closets the improvements sought for have been to render
them effectual as ready, inoffensive, safe, and inexpensive house de-
positaries for excreta, and to receive approval they should be such
in the fullest degree. The advance that has marked their history,
brief as it is, is not less surprising than that which attaches to most
of the inventions in this department. Originally cumbrous, poorly
constructed, uncleanly, extravagant in first cost and in the use of
water, easily out of repair, and radically unsafe, device has quickly
followed device for the amelioration of all these conditions, until
the makers of Great Britain and America vie with one another for
supremacy, finding the race a close one. The palm for superiority
in the principal features resides, however, with the foreign maker, the
most perfect closet now in existence being an improvement of Mr.
Myers, of New York, upon the main features of the closet of Mr.
Jennings, of London. The apparently trifling but important improve-
ment of Mr. Myers upon Jennings, both of whom received awards,
consists in the substitution in the closet of a beveled, solid plug with
air-tight seat, for the hollow one formerly used, thus securing more
perfect exclusion of gas, while both provide means for ample venti-
lation. A prominent feature of advantage in the closets alluded to
is the location of the trap directly beneath the bowl, which brings it
above the floor, — a point of much convenience where floor-timbers
are shallow and it is undesirable to raise the seat. Other closets
taking rank close after these received due appreciation.

The earth-closet, though distinctly not a sewer connection, from

the fact that it deals with excreta and finds no fitter association, may

be briefly reviewed here. Its purpose was to find a means whereby

human excreta might be quickly and quietly deprived of power for

offense or harm and retained in fit condition for agricultural use.

It was intended as a substitute for water-carriage, and indeed for all

other plans of conservancy, and, in a limited degree, it accomplishes

the end. Experience has taught that its power for usefulness is

restricted by the difficulties involved in procuring, preparing, and

removing the dry earth required in its use, and to some extent by

those which attend, mechanically and chemically, the application of

the earth to the dejecta. The inherent defects of the earth-closet

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38 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

reside in the seeming impossibility of obtaining just such perfection
of mechanism as will completely do the required work automatically.
The devices of the kind are numerous, though but one was exhibited
at Philadelphia. To be at the best, an earth-closet should have its
mechanics simple and automatic, and all its parts closely fitted, its
hopper long-lipped in front, and its tank rise close to its seat. It
should never operate by weights, which act badly and interfere with
the space beneath. Its reservoir should be arranged for the easy
reception of ashes or earth, and so constructed as to facilitate the
ready delivery to the distributor. The Wakefield closet examined
by the Judges, while not embracing all these features, was still a
serviceable closet of considerable merit, and as such received an
award. It is confidently predicted that no one of the appliances of
a sanitary character will undergo greater improvements in the imme-
diate future, nor play a more important part in the sanitary problems
to be solved.

DISINFECTANTS IN THEIR SANITARY APPLICATION.

There were but few entries in this class at Philadelphia, about
equally divided between foreign and American producers. The dis-
infecting apparatus of Geo. Jennings, of London, had in use a disin-
fectant which was reasonably efficacious; principally permanganate
of potash. It was uniform in action and satisfactory. The agent
employed in the disinfectant of W. F. Wheeler, alluded to in drainage
connections, was a composite of carbolic acid and borax, and in its
extended use about the Exhibition proved very efficient. The Eng-
lish exhibit of Dillwyn Smith of disinfecting apparatus and agents
for disinfecting the cabins and holds of vessels was of unique and
apparently efficient character. It was the only apparatus of the kind
having no connection with sewer systems.

ODORLESS EXCAVATING APPARATUS.

Several styles of appliances for the inoffensive removal of human
excreta, etc., from vaults and cesspools are thus called, and are the
practical result of experience in all lands of this necessary but un-
pleasant process. The history of efforts at the production of apparatus
to accomplish this .work is somewhat limited, but enough is known
to enable us to trace with considerable exactness the march of the
improvements that have appeared from time to time on both sides
of the Atlantic, and which have led up to the more highly-perfected

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GENERAL REPORT OF THE JUDGES OF GROUP XJV. 35

appliances which the Exhibition made known. In all some form or
other of pumping apparatus, or application of the pneumatic principles
of physics, has, by peculiar mechanism, been enlisted, and with greater
or less efficiency. To be of the best an apparatus must be simple,
light, cheap, and compact, convenient in handling^, secure in its con-
struction and use against the dissemination of foul odors, rapid in its
operation, durable, inexpensively operated, requiring few men and
horses, noiseless, and so composed as to require little manipulation,
and to permit of any of its parts being readily cleaned or replaced.
It must provide for the destruction or harmless occlusion of offensive
gases, and easy removal of the excreta.

There were four exhibits of this class, one of which, however,
being the property of one of the Judges of this group, could not
enter into competition. Of the remainder, three operated by pumping
the material from vaults and cesspools directly through the pumps,
which were provided with peculiar valves. The fourth operated by
means of an air-pump, which created a vacuum in a receiver con-
nected with the vault by a hose, the atmospheric pressure causing
the vault contents to fill the vacuum. All were capable of doing
good work, and received recognition accordingly. This form of ap-
paratus is yet in an undeveloped state, and time will add largely to
both its variety and effectiveness.

CLASS 224. — Kitchen and Pantry Utensils, Tin-Ware, and
Cooking Apparatus.

In this large and multifarious class, which held much that was best
and more that was poorest in the Exhibition, little attempt at sub-
division or analysis can be made, much less minute review of the
features and merits of particular exhibits. Under the general head
of utensils of convenience, in connection with kitchen and table ser-
vice, articles were ranged with little further relation to one another.
The tea-trays manufactured by the Newark Tray Company evincing
workmanship and quality of lacquer that were the envy of other
manufacturers, home and foreign; japanned ware in great variety and
beauty, coal vases, etc., from both Rohman and Scheider; bread-knives
of various makes ; the nonpareil flasks of Wattis. an ambitious and
wonderful dish-washer. Culver's ironing-machine, Mrs. Potts'sand Mrs.
Ball's sad-irons, each challenged admiration in their individual fields
of service, and received award. In the domain of tin-ware, the fan-
tastic and marvelous shapes of Musgrove & Son, the splendid range
of domestic goods of Ketchum & Co.; above all, for artistic concep-

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40 INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1876.

tion and innumerable uses, the white lustral wire-ware of Woods,
Sherwood, & Co., an industry which has already wrought an over-
turn of national importance in its own line, and the graceful " forms"
for frozen viands, jellies, etc., from Norman, of Germany, all won
upon the housewife and the Judge. In the line of utensils specially
designed for cookery, the porcelain-lined ware of Stuart, Peterson, &
Co., of Philadelphia; the beautiful "granite-ware" of St. Louis, which
stood the most crucial tests of fire, cold, and boiling acids; the
polished copper- ware for ships and kitchen use, and the Ettzen-
bcrger coffee-urn, were each successful exponents of their several
types.

The refrigerant apparatus, the water-coolers of half a dozen makes,
the capital ice-crusher of Law, the cream-still of McKelvey, and the
refrigerators of Lesley and others were excellent. Our transatlantic
visitors were also successful contributors to this department of
domestic purveying, and the kitchen utensils, bright, rich, and heavy,
antique and modern, of Francisco de Paula Isaura, of Barcelona ; of
Kerls, of Erben, in Austria; of the Companie de San Juan Alcaraz,
and of Belczkericz, of Warsaw, all testified their interest in this grand
bvTzar of the nations, and contributed not a little to the instruction and
interest concentered there.

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REPORTS ON AWARDS.

GROUP XIV.

I. Charles Bumham St Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

GAS COOKING STOVES, REFLECTING PARLOR GAS STOVES, AND GAS HEATING STOVES.

Report, — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Substantial construction and neatness of the cooking stove, and the facility with which
its furniture can be adjusted.

2. The ease with which the apparatus may be cleaned and repaired.

3. Its perfect combustion quality.

4. Its admirable adaptation to domestic uses, and its safety.

The reflector parlor stove is recommended on account of its cheerfulness, being an illu-
minated open fire-place, its convenience for location, for heating the feet, etc.

2. Walton Brothers, New York, N. Y., U. S.

NOISELESS OPEN-BASE STEAM RADIATOR, AND SHIP'S GALLEY.

Report. — " Noiseless Open-Base Steam Radiator.'* Commended for the following reasons :

1. Its open base, permitting the most equable supply and radiation of air, makes certain
a nearly perfect circulation.

2. Its noiseless operation (as established by test) is a feature of merit. The escape of
the water of condensation being provided for, the jarring and snapping so frequently heard
in steam radiators is here absent, the tubes being left quite or nearly dry.

3. The circulation effectually prevents the accumulation of air in the tubes.

4. The water-trap secures the full utilization of all the steam supplied, and hence it has
increased value in an economic point of view.

Ship's Galley. This " galley'* is unique in its advantages and in its arrangements for the
economic use of fuel with large results.

3. Swett, Quimby, & Perry, Troy, N. Y., U. S.

"GRAPHIC" PARLOR STOVE.
Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Its reversible flues are so constructed as to give the largest amount of space required
for purposes of perfect combustion, both in direct and return draft, thus insuring a free and
easy operation, however defective the chimney.

2. The construction of the fire-pot, so shaped that the ashes and slag will not be held
against its side to prevent the radiation of heat through it ; it is easily removed.

3. The cleaning grate, the feeder or magazine, mica doors, illuminated vase, hot-water
tank, adjustable clinkerless grate, patent self-lifting feed cover and ash pan, are among
the novel and useful features of this excellent stove.

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42 REPORTS ON AWARDS.

4, Magee Furnace Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

STOVES, RANGES, AND FURNACES.

Report. — Commended for the excellence of the several exhibits enumerated in the
directions and particulars hereinafter specified and described.

In Stoves : The " Magee Standard Parlor" holds superiority of design, character of work-
manship, finish, and novelty and effectiveness in plan of construction, with economy in use.

The ** Magee Standard Base Burner" holds eminence from its unique design, finish, work-
manship, and arrangements for cleanliness, convenience, and economy. The grate-shank
protruding affords convenience in rattling, while a " follower" prevents dust-escape. The
illuminating doors are unique in being readily removable from hidden hinges for the pur-
poses of cleaning. The "magazine" construction is such as to permit the use of cither
chestnut or stove coal. The upper fire-pot is provided with efficient gas-consuming arrange-
ments, securing combustion of the gases and illumination of the upper chamber. Great
convenience of cleaning the flues at their convergence is here provided.

In Ranges : The " Magee Standard Portable Range" presents excellence in its design,
finish, and construction, and many points of convenience and utility. The space between
the true and false bases of the oven furnishes a ventil-flue, through which the air from
end apertures passes, and, being warmed, traverses the oven, and, escaping at the upper
(fire-pot) angle, supplies the gas-burner of the fire-pot (meeting the roasting requirements).
An extra number of shelves are attached to the range, as also double towel racks. It has
extra closet capacity. It has a large encased copper hot-water tank, arranged for boiling
or simply warming the water it c6ntains, and having a spigot-attachment adjustable on
front or end, not found in any other range. The arrangement of its water-back is such as
not to interfere with the removal of clinkers, or the boiling process, or illumination doors.
The removable non-cloggable ash-sifter is a special feature. It may have one or two hot
closets, as desired.

In Furnaces : The ** Magee Standard Plate Iron Furnace" presents merit as a healthful,
convenient, economical, and inexf)ensive wrought-iron furnace. Its details for convenience,
cleanliness, and economy in use are in part enumerated as follows. It has its dome of
riveted boiler-iron, preventing escape of gas or dust into the air chamber. The double con-
struction of its fire-pot provides for the delivery of air for the free combustion of gases. The
automatic hood over the feed-door provides for the engaging and removal of gas and dust
when the door is opened. Special facilities are provided for removal of clinkers, grate-
shaking, and flue-cleaning, and the regulation of air currents. The improved double terra-
cotta wall with air space between is a convenient improvement for setting. All castings
are of elegance and excellence.

5. Isaac N. Deardorff, Canal Dover, Tuscarawas County, Ohio, U. S.

IMPROVED SMOKE-HOUSE STOVE.

Report. — Commended for:

1. Economy of fuel.

2. Increase of smoke-volume.

3. Easy regulation and distribution.

4. Immunity from accidental fire.

5. Equalization of temperature.

6. Ability to consume wood whether green or dry.

6. William H. Jackson & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

GRATES AND FENDERS FOR OPEN FIRES AND FIRE-PLACES.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :
I. The material is steel wrought, instead of wrought iron.

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2. The exhibit is brilliant, characterized by originality, great beauty. of design, fine quality,
workmanship, and finish.

3. The articles are in the highest state of finish, consisting of bronze of various shades,
black enamel, and richly ornamented silver and gilt specimens.

7. Christoph Reisner & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

SUMMER QUEEN OIL COOK STOVE.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Its neatness, durability, simplicity, and safety.

2. It has a water reservoir directly over the oil tank, surrounding the wick tube und
ratchets. The constant evaporation of the water avoids all odor.

3. The cylinder of the stove is attached by a hinge which allows of the stove being
thrown back after heating, instead of being lifted off" in a hot state. The whole apparatus
is very complete, and economical as respects price.

8. Fuller, Warren, & Co., Troy, N. Y., U. S.

STOVES, FURNACES, AND RANGES.

Report. — Commended for an unusually extensive, various, and artistic display of heating
apparatus, indicating much taste and superior workmanship.

9. The Open Stove Ventilating Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

"THE FIRE ON THE HEARTH" — PARLOR STOVE.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. The combination is one apparatus, with three distinct modes of operation, i.e., the air-
warming capacity of a furnace, the reserve force of a close stove, and the ventilation of a
fire-place.

2. The faculty of transmitting two currents, viz. : for the products of combustion to
chimney flue, and for the supply of fresh air moderately warmed to the room for bodily
comfort and respiration.

10. Boston Soapstone Furnace Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

SOAPSTONE FURNACE.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Soapstone is a fine retainer and radiator of heat, and the heated air is free from the
impurities resulting from burning the air against hot metal surfaces.

2. The equable and agreeable heat this furnace distributes.

3. Its property of withstanding intense heat without change of structure.

4. The ease with which it is managed.

5. Its immunity from accidental fire.

II. John Grossius, Cincinnati, Ohio, U. S.

PATENT .SCHOOL-HOUSE VENTILATING STOVE.

Report, — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Excellent workmanship, and usefulness of design.

2. Uniformity and equalization of heat ; large radiating surface.

3. ITiorough ventilation, the amount of fresh air from the outside being estimated at not
less than three hundred cubic inches per second.

4 Powerful heating capacity, combined with unusual economy of fuel.
5. Its adaptation to any description of coal, hard or soft.

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44 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

6. The fact that the gases are thoroughly consumed.

7. A good arrangement for schools, halls, and churches.

8. Extraordinary strength and durability.

12. Henry Chatain, Washington, D. C, U. S.

OVEN FOR BAKERS, CONFECTIONERS, HOTELS, ETC

Report, — Conunended for the following reasons :

1 . Its portability, compactness, and lightness.

2. Its rapid heating and efficient radiating qualities.

3. Its comparative cheapness and economy of fuel.

4. Its adaptability to family, boarding-house, or hotej use.

13. Thomas S. Dixon & Sons, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

GRATES AND GAS LOGS.

Report, — Commended for the following reasons :

1. The grates, on account of their double heating capacity front and back, for the various
forms of backs and checks for radiation of heat, their variable shaking ash (or bottom)
grates, and the arrangement adopted to prevent dust when disturbing the fire.

2. The gas logs save gas and heat by the arrangement of making the lower sticks of the
gas logs alive and the upper ones dead, the imitation of coal or wood perfect.

3. Durability, good workmanship, variety, and attractiveness of design characterize this
exhibit.

14. Bissell A Co., Pittsburg, Pa., U. S.

PEERLESS RADIATING SHAKING GRATE.
Report, — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Its construction secures economy and cleanliness.

2. It is not easy to clog the grate, or in any way interfere with its smooth and steady
working.

3. Strength and durability.

4. The nature and arrangement of the bottom of the grate admit of the use of different
kinds of fuel.

5. Beauty of style and finish.

15. Bissell A Co., Pittsburg, Pa., U. S.

ISAAC DRIPP'S PATENT RAILROAD CAR HEATERS.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Safety. The doors are arranged to close with strong brass spiral springs, and handles
remain in possession of brakemen. The stove is thoroughly bolted to the floor.

2. Purity of air. The cold air is taken from outside of car and passed over a body of
water held in bottom of stove, thus depriving it of dust, cinders, etc., and it is discharged
at each seat perfectly pure and free from all dust.

3. An unusually large fire-pot, and large ash-box below, rendering it unnecessary to
replenish the fuel except at long intervals.

4. Its capacity as a heater.

16. Bissell & Co., Pittsburg, Pa., U. S.

PITTSBURG ELEVATED OVEN COOKING RANGE.
Report. — Commended for the following reasons :
I . Its adaptation to the use of bituminous coal.

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2. Unusually large flues, separate rim at base to range, wide columns at sides, steam
ihelf, swinging hearth, swinging doors, extra weight and finish of castings.

3. Ornamental and attractive appearance.

4. Effective arrangement of the dampers, rendering it particularly easy of regulation and
management. *

17. Chas. Noble & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

STOVES AND RANGES.

Rfport. — Commended for superior casting, fine workmanship, variety of style and pat-
tern, cheapness of production, combined with strength and durability.

18. Richardson, Boynton, A Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

IMPROVED FURNACES.

Report, — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Simplicity of arrangement and durability, superior heating power, and economy of
fuel, conforming in its modus operandi to natural laws, the shape of the furnaces conducing
to the more perfect combustion of coal.

2. The small number of joints, their position ahd manner of construction rendering them
perfectly gas-tight.

3. The large amount of direct radiating surface.

4. The patent clinker-cleaning grate, by which ashes and clinkers can be removed with*
out disturbing the fire, saving dust and time, preserving a bright, clear fire with little
trouble, and requiring little power to shake it.

19. Swett, Quimby, A Perry, Troy, N. Y., U. S.

EMPIRE HEATING RANGE.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Plainness and neatness of design, excellent workmanship, smooth and finely propor-
tioned castings.

2. Peculiarities of construction in fire- chamber, location and arrangement of flues, appli-
cation of cold air, and boiling arrangement.

3. Large double ovens and capacious warming closets.

4. The fire-box passes from front to back of range, and is constructed with two grates,
the rear grate being stationary, and a horizontal moving and dumping grate in front, so
arranged that by no possibility can any dust or ashes pass into the room. The fire-chamber
is divided in the middle by a very easily adjusted division plate, in which a brick is fitted,
which forms the back of summer fire-box, so that in warm weather the size of the fire may
be reduced to simply suflicient for cooking purposes, making the fire-box no larger than in
an ordinary cooking-stove, and with this summer fire one or two fair-sized rooms may be
warmed comfortably in ordinary winter weather.

20. L. F. Duparquet & Huot, New York, N. Y., U. S.

COOKING RANGE AND COOKING ITTENSILS.

Report, — Commended for the following reasons :

1 . Economy of fuel and superior cooking qualities.

2. Capacity of urn, allowing of preparation of large quantity of coffee or tea at one time;
also its preservation of the aroma and flavor.

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21. Johnson, Black, St Co., Erie, Erie County, Pa., U. S.

BASE-BURNING STOVES AND FURNACE.

Report. — Radiant Home Stove commended for the following reasons :

1. Superior healing capacity. This is indicated by the construction of the fire-pot, in
connection with outer casing, the joints of which are made with pockets, united by cement,
rendering them i>erfcctly air-tight, thus compelling all air admitted in lower part of stove
to pass through the grale and basket fire-pot, l^y which the most perfect combustion and
consequent maximum of heat are achieved.

2. The manner of construction for purpose of equalization of heat, which consists of a
direct damper exit-flue near the top of the stove. The damper controlling the same is left
with openings inserted so that when turned to give the reversible flue draft it at the same
time allows a partially direct draft, thus heating top and bottcHn alike; and also carrying
off the gas, which otherwise accumulates in the upper part of the stove, and escapes, more
or less, into the room.

3. The easy and effectual method of getting rid of debris. By use of a lever the teeth
of a cut-off or fork device are thrust through openings in the fire-pot, at a point between
the burning coal and debris, thus holding the fire in position, while by withdrawing a slide
in the grate all slate, ashes, and clinker are precipitated into the ash-pan. For the ease
with which this is accomplished, its effeciiveness and cleanliness (there being no open
door to allow of escape of dust or gas), this admirable provision merits special mention.

The Radiant Home Furnace involves the application of the same principles included in
the construction of the siove alluded to, with the addition of the introduction in the furnace
of large mica windows, intended, not for illumination, but for the rapid radiation of heat,
this article being found to have a greater cajmcity for heat and a better radiation than iron.

22. Richardson, Boynton, & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

BALTUfORE FIREPLACE HEATER AND FRANKLIN TILE PORTABLE STOVE.

Report. — Baltimore Fireplace Heater commended for the following reasons:

1. Great power in heating. ,

2. Durability, economy of fuel.

3. Simplicity of construction.

4. Attractiveness of api>earance. .

5. Ease of management.

6. The magazine is heavy, durable, and has a sectional open top.

7. Other advantages are its clinker-cleaning anti-friction shaking grate ; its single damper
controlling the draft ; its dust-flues for the escape ot dust ; the arrangement of the reversible
flues, and smoke-pipe attachment, allowing the heater flues to be cleaned without trouble
or inconvenience.

Franklin ** Tile" Portable Stove. A very rare style of stove ; lop, sides, and front made
of " English tile," which gives a soft, mellow heat, and is a better retainer of heat than
cast iron. It has in front of the body of fuel an illuminated close hot-air chamber, pre-
venting cold air from coming in contact with the fuel, thereby keeping a continuous fire,
and allowing only heated air to pass to supjx)rt combustion; has a grated fire-pot so
arranged that air circulates when admitted on all sides as well as under the grate. The
stove IS cheerful and brilliant in appearance, attractive and elegant in design, and especially
adapted for heating sick-rooms, libraries, and offices. Commended for superior heating
qualities.

23. Job Bartlett & Sons, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

WROUGHT-IRON WARM-AIR FURNACES FOR BURNING ANTHRACITE AND BITUMINOUS
COAL OR WOOD, AND LONDON KITCHENERS AND CHARCOAL BROILERS.

Report. — The warm-air furnaces are commended for the following reasons :

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1. Among the advantages are the air-tight draft door; method of introducing cold air;
extent of radiating surface ; patent dust flue ; appliances for the consumption of gas, and
patent shaking and dumping grate.

2. Over the fire, and inclosing it, is a large wrought-iron pyramid. This is placed over
the body of the fire with an air-tight joint. The brick-work is made hollow for the supply
of cold air, and on the inside is furnished with a large number of pipes through which the
supply passes.

3. Another advantage is the arrangement of the radiating surfaces, by which the whole
of the heat generated by the combustion of ijie fuel is secured for the registry. Whatever
heat leaves the pyramid over the fire unappropriated is led with the smoke into two upright
iron receptacles made of as well-selected and stout iron as the pyramid, by which the
balance of the heat is given off for the registers before the flue is reached.

4. Durability of construction.

5. Heat generated causing no red-hot surfaces.

The London Kitcheners and Charcoal Broilers are commended for the following reasons :

1. Strength and durability.

2. Simj)licity and economy.

3. Facility of management.

4. Quick healing .quality, reliability, and thorough ventilation.

5. Suitability for large hotels, entertainments, etc., as well as private dwellings.

24. Detroit Stove Works, Detroit, Mich., U. S.

STOVES FOR PARLORS, HALLS, AND STORES.

Report. — Commended for general elegance of outline ; beauty of design ; perfectness
of mounting, fitting, and trimmings ; general fine workmanship and appearance.

25. Mark Feetham A Co., London, England.

GRATES AND FIRE-PLACES.

Report. — Commended for highly artistic designs, excellence of material, very superior
workmanship, combined with great practical utility.

26. A. M. Perkins & Son, London, England.

HIGH-PRESSURE STEAM BAKING OVEN.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Excellence of design and workmanship, and ready adaptation to its contemplated
use.

2. The facility with which the oven can be heated in a very short time to 500° Fahren-
heit, and an equable temperature maintained.

3. The tubes of which (?) composed being independent of each other, should one give
out, the working of the oven is not necessarily interfered with.

4. The exhibit indicates novelty and eflSciency.

27. Henry Belezikewicz, Warsaw, Russia.

PORTABLE COOKING APPARATUS HEATED BY PETROLEUM, WITH KITCHEN UTENSILS.

Report. — Commended for compactness, attention to details, superior workmanship, and
ready adaptability.

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28. Metallurgical Company of San Juan de Alcaraz, Albacete, Spain.

BRASS STOVES, SPANISH BRAZEROS, CRUET STANDS, COCKS, KITCHEN UTENSILS, AND

HEATERS.

Report. — Commended for superior quality of metal used in construction, excellent
stamping and finishing, variety of designs, skill in workmanship, and adaptation to the
public needs.

29. Drammen Foundry and Mechanical Works, Drammen, Norway.

STOVES.

Report. — Commended for superior castings, beauty and variety of design, and skillful
workmanship.

30. F. A. Kerl's Heirs, Patten, near Karlsbad, Austria.

WHITE METAL AND TURNED SPOONS.

Report. — Commended for excellence of manufacture and extraordinary cheapness for
common use.

31. Geo. I. Mix A Co., Yalesville, Conn., U. S.

IRON AND BRITANNIA SPOONS, FLESH FORKS, AND WATER COOLERS.
Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Taste and skill in jdesign, and superior workmanship.

2. The water coolers are manufactured with a view to strength, durability, and cleanli-
ness, and include in their construction the best non-conducting medium.

Between the tank and the outside case is a filling of calcined plaster wet with strong
salt-and-water ; after settling, this becomes of stony hardness, thus proving not only a non-
conductor, but a brace to the apparatus.

32. Eldridge J. Smith, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

DOUBLE GRIDDLE.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. A reversible small oven, with double coverings and handles.

2. Simple, economical, and efficient in baking, stewing, and broiling.

33. Newark Tea Tray Co., Newark, N. J., U. S.

TRAYS AND WAITERS ( JAPANNED).

Report. — Commended for extent, variety, and richness of display, beauty of design, and
excellent workmanship.

34. Musgrove A Son, New York, N. Y., U. S.

PLANISHED AND JAPANNED TIN-WARE.
Report. — Commended for the great diversity of designs for wedding presents, excellence
of material and workmanship, and general attractiveness.

35. James H. Corey, New York, N. Y., U. S.

IMPROVED CULINARY BOILER WITH STEAM VALVE ATTACHED.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. The rapidity with which boiling is effected.

2. Economy of steam.

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3. Improvement in quality of cooking.

4. Durability.

5. Its adaptability to a Urge variety of uses in large restaurants and hotels.

36. Ansonia Brass and Copper Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

PATENT SPUN BRASS KETTLES.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1 . General excellence of texture and finish.

2. The absence of seams, the brass kettles being spun from metal plates.

3. Taste and skill in workmanship.

37. Manning, Bovirman, & Co., West Meriden, Conn., U. S.

TEA AND COFFEE POTS AND URNS.

Report. — A most extensive display of tea and coffee pots and urns, of britannia and nickel
finish. Commended for :

1. Superiority of workmanship and elegance of design.

2. Cheapness, durability, and adaptability to practical use.

'^Z. Mrs. Charlotte H. Sterling, Gambler, Knox County, Ohio, U. S.

DISH WASHING AND DRYING MACHINE.
Report. — Dish washing and drying machine, for washing and drying dishes without the
wetting of the hands or the use of brush or cloth of any kind.
Commended for the following reasons :

1. Its portability, simplicity, and compactness.

2. The thoroughness of the operation, and the avoidance of breaking or nicking of
plates and dishes.

39. St. Louis Stamping Co., St. Louis, Mo., U. S.

GRANITE IRON WARE.
Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. A fine exhibit of kitchen and culinary wares.

2. Excellent enameled sheet metal ware, unaffected by acids or extreme heat.

3. General taste and skill of worknaanship.

40. Lalance A Grosjean Manufacturing Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

SHEET METAL CULINARY ITTENSILS.

Report. — Sheet metal culinary utensils, stamped or pressed, from iron, brass, copper, and
tin plate, hammered, polished, re-turned and plain, planished, enameled, or marbleized.
Commended for the following reasons :

1. General superiority of exhibit.

2. Enameled ; superiority of color, and more flexible in quality.

3. Planished ware of high quality and excellent color.

4. Marbleized (stamped iron ware), a remarkably tough and durable enamel, incorpo-
rating itself thoroughly in the pores of the sheet iron, and is unaffected by excessive heat,
or acids of any description ; does not flake off with use.

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41. J. Hall Rohrman & Son, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.
grocers' coffee, tea, and spice caddies and scales, and safe deposit boxes foe

BANKS, security COMPANIES, ETa
Report. — Commended for the following rea.sons :

1. New and ori|;inal designs in ornamentation.

2. Admirable workmanship and decoration, inviting the closest scrutiny.

3. The marked attention bestowed upon the minutest details, challen^ng criticism,
smoothness of finish, and adaptability to the uses contemplated by their manufacture.

42. Jonathan Miller, Meriden, Conn., U. S.

COFFEE, TEA, AND FJCTRACT PRESS.
Report. — Commended for the following reasons r

1. Pressure is caused by the expansion of the material used; prevents the generation of
Steam and the esca[x! of the licjuid until the extract is peiifectly formed. It also measures
the material and liquid, strains the extract, and prevenis the strainer from being clogged by
the sediment.

2. The presses by which this process is put into practical use are so arranged that any
amount of material may be used, from ounces to tons, and the quantity as perfectly extracted
in either. They are all provided with floats which prevent the steam or vapor from forming
after the extract is completed, thereby retaining the flavor longer than can be done in any
other way.

3. By means of this pressure, sediment is racked from the liquid before coming in con-
tact with the material.

4. The simplicity and cheapness of the arrangement, and facility with which it is
operated.

5. The successful manner in which tea and coffee can be successfully prepared with cold
water as well as heated.

43. Woods, Sherwood, & Co., Lowell, Mass., U. S.

WHITE LUSTRAL WIRE WARE.
Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. It is entirely novel.

2. It fully supplies the place of britannia and more expensive wares.

3. It is of su|)erior strenj^th, considerable elegance of design, and great neatness of
workmanship and finish.

4. It is of great variety.

44. Missouri Valley Novelty Works, St. Joseph, Mo., U. S.

COMBINATION KITCHEN SAFE.

Report. — Commended for its compact and convenient form, containing the necessary
groceries for family use. An excellent design, well constructed and arranged.

45. Dr. G. W. H. Calver, Columbus, N. J., U. S.

HOUSF.HOLD IRONINv; MACHINE.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Its ready adaptability to any household where a cook stove or gas is used.

2. Its application to all varieties of clothes- ironing where a mangle can be used, and
the ability with which it irons clothes containing buttons, without breaking, and also
leaving the materiaf as dry and healthful as by the sadiron.

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GROUP XIV, 51

3. Economy of time and fuel, and the ease with which it is operated by one in the sit-
ting position.

4. Its adaptation to private families, hotels, and laundries.

5. Cheapness and durability.

46. Dover Stamping Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

DOVER EGG BEATER.

Report. — Commended for, I, its simplicity, rapidity of action, and efficiency. 2. Its pe-
culiar merit consists in two revolving floats turning on two centres, so near together as to
cause each to interlace with or cut the orbit of the other. The effect is to draw the eggs
or other articles to be beaten within the orbits of the beater, instead of dispersing it by cen-
trifugal force to the periphery of the circle of the vessel.

47. Reading Hardware Co., Reading, Pa., U. S.

APPLE PARER.

Report. — Conmiended for the following reasons :

1. Superiority in mechanical construction and arrangement.

2. The facility with which it removes the entire covering of the fruit in an incredibly
short period.

3. Its working parts project from the table or stand to which it is fastened, so that the
parings fall into a receptacle for that purpose without clogging the machine in any
manner. •

4. By means of the " push-oflf lever," a recent improvement, the fruit is effectually re-
moved without handling.

5. The shafts being square on the ends, they cannot become loose and turn in the wheels
of the machine.

6. Its compactness and portability.

48. W. S. Carr A Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

BATH-ROOM FURNITURE; PATENT AMERICAN DEFIANCE WATER-CLOSET.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. The bath-room suite is of American wood casing, most artistically and elegantly fin-
ished, and consists of bath-tub, water-closet, washstand, and bidet; also supply waste and
secret overflow for bath, washstand, and bidet. A most ingenious and effective contrivance.

2. The water-closet is noticeable on account of the large quantity of water retained in
the bowl, perfect sealing of overflow, and impossibility of smell.

3. The ease with which it is removed and repaired without disturbing the seat.

4. Manufactiured of china and earthenware, without any putty or cement used in their
construction.

49. Ethelbert Watts, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

COMBINATION BATH TRIWK.

Report. — Commended for its portability and combination with a traveling hand-tnmk
of convenient size and shape for transportation, its prompt and ready arrangement and
adaptation to the purposes of bathing where more permanent Hxtures are inaccessible.

50. Dr. David B. Sturgeon, Toledo, Ohio, U. S.

AMERICAN DEPURATORY BATH.

Report. — Conmiended for the following reasons:

I. Its compactness and adaptability of form for the purposes for which constructed; also
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because by its use the hot-air and vaf>or baths are administered under circumstances more
in accordance with the laws of physiology than those usually exhibited.

2. By this bath, pure air is respired at a temperature below the normal standard of the
blood, the result of which is that the force and frequency of the pulse are not greatly aug-
mented, and there is less tendency to congestion of the brain being induced than when air
at a high temperature is respired, thus obviating the necessity of applying ice water to the
head, which prevents the depuration of effete matter from the surface to which the cold
water is applied.

3. During the entire time of bathing, the person is completely protected from the inhala-
tion of effete matter or poisonous exhalations from his own body or the bodies of other
bathers.

4. The submerging of the body in water arrests depuration from the skin, whereas by
the application of water in sprays, as in this bath, the elimination of effete matter is nqjidly
increased.

5. It admits of the administration of medicated vapors.

6. It is fully adapted to all the needs of household, public, and hospital use.

51. Peter Carrigan, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

plumbers' copper WORK; BATH-TUBS, FOOT-TUBS, SINKS, AND COPPER KITCHEN UTENSILS.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Very superior material and workmahship.

2. The bath-tubs are so constructed that no shrinkage or cracking of the wood affects
the close adhesion and smoothness of the bottoms and sides.

3. Strength and durability.

52. C. A. Blessing, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

COPPER BATH-TUBS AND COMBINATION COCK FOR BATH-TUB.

Report. — ^The copper bath-tubs are commended for the following reasons :

1. Beauty of design, excellence of material and workmanship.

2. They are so shaped as to leave no flat surface where water or sediment can remain to
corrode the lining ; but, being made to slope toward the centre, the water flows off quickly
after removing the plug, leaving the tub comparatively dry. Besides, the lining fits more
closely to the wood-work, and is less liable to bulge up and leave an uneven surface.

The combination cock is commended for —

1. Its simplicity, easy management, and practical utility.

2. It consists in the combination, with the waste pipe issuing from the bottom of a bath-
tub, of an overflow tube or pipe, which operates in the manner of a siphon, and is so con-
trived that the water will gradually rise in said tul>e to the level of the water in the tub,
and will run off into the waste pipe when the proper amount of water is in the tub.

3. The invention also consists in the combination with hot and cold water supply pipes,
a shower-bath pipe, and a waste pipe, of a four-way cock, which is so constructed and
arranged that the hot and cold water can be admitted through the bottom of the tub, either
separately or mixed, and can also be caused to flow into the shower pipe while the water
from the tub is running off through the waste pipe.

4. It further consists in the combination, with a tub having counter-sunk or struck-up
recesses in its sides, of a detachable seat, which is held in place by a sliding clamp and
thumb-screw.

5. The perfection of its combination, strength, durability, and non -liability to get out of
order.

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53. Henry C. Meyer & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

THE FULLER PATENT FAUCET.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. The impossibility of leakage from constant and long use, having a metal seat and an
elastic valve, which valve is so arranged as to receive the pressure of water towards the
seat, and thus having a constant tendency to tightness.

2. The facility with which the faucet is opened or closed.

3. The water being entirely excluded from the chamber of the cock when closed, the
faucet cannot be injured by the freezing of the pipe.

4. It is equally adapted for hot or cold water.

5. It can easily be taken oflf by simply unscrewing the body of the cock from the shank

6. Strength and durability.

54. Redlich's Manufacturing Co., Chicago, 111., U. S.

WOODEN FAUCETS SATURATED WITH INDU. RUBBER.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Absence of corrosion and oxidation.

2. The complete saturation with india rubber, thus filling thoroughly and permanently
the pores of wood and cork.

55. Otto Zwietusch, Milwaukee, Wis., U. S.

CRYSTAL FAUCET DRAUGHT APPARATUS.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. The material (glass) is preferable to pure metal, and admirably adapted to soda foun-
tains, etc.

2. Well adapted to chemical and pharmaceutical uses.

3. The absence of screws, the faucets being applied and displaced without delay.

4. The air-escape arrangement. The air chamber is placed above the draught tube;
easy to open from the outside. Any gas or air remaining in the pipes or cooler concen-
trates in this chamber, instead of passing through draught tube, thus preventing sputtering.
All extensions and connections of the cooler are out of the way of the ice (they are beneath
and between the syrup cans or tanks, to prevent their being damaged or injured), which
can be put in the apparatus in large blocks, instead of crushing it, thus saving labor and
expense.

56. Henry C. Meyer & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

MURDOCK'S PATENT ANTI-FREEZING HYDRANT.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Its simplicity, durability, and facility with which it can be repaired without removing
the stock or case from its position in the ground.

2. The case or stock is of iron.

3. An ingenious contrivance by which the waste water is allowed to flow off, thus effect-
ually preventing the freezing of the hydrant in cold weather.

57. Jacob H. Polhamos, New York, N. Y., U. S.

REFRIGERATING CUPBOARD AND SAFE.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

I. Its adaptation to summer and winter use, — as a refrigerator in summer, and a safe in
winter.

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2. The ice being placed at the bottom, there can be no dampness, damp air bcinj;
heavier than common air, and therefore incapable of rising.

3. Economical in the use of ice, as there is no draft over the ice, while the ventilation
through the top is perfect.

4. The doors have loose joint hinges, admitting of their being lifted off and substituted
by wire screen doors for winter use.

58. Smith Refrigerator Co., Albany, N. Y., U. S.

DRY AIR REFRIGERATOR.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons*:

1. The extraordinary dryness of the air chamber, and its consequent presen-ative
qualities.

2. Its non-conducting walls, in sections, and the construction of the same.

3. The non-conducting chambers contain pure dry air, secured within walls saturated
with paraHlne, thus obviating the slightest mould, must, or dampness.

4. Its economy of ice and its ready adaptation to family use, or that of large buildings,
railroad cars, etc.

59. Alexander M. Lesley, New York, N. Y.. U. S.

ZERO REFRIGERATOR.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Beauty of design and excellent workmanship.

2. The absence of all communication between the ice and provision chamber.

3. The absence of moisture on the inside lining.

4. The impossibility of contact of hot air with the ice, except when the waste of ice is
supplied, requiring the opening of the door.

5. The condensation of the moisture contained in the provision chamber on the cold
surface of the ice-box, which running into a trough is passed out through a pipe at the
bottom.

6. The economy of ice, and uniformity of temperature.

7. The filling of the refrigerator, which is cork, a good non-conductor, cleanly and
odorless.

60. Sidney Shepard & Co., Bufifalo, N. Y., U. S.

ICE-CREAM FREEZERS, PATENTED PALACE COAL VASES, NOVELTY OIL CANS.

Report, — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Simplicity and strength of construction of ice-cream freezer in its various parts, and
perfection of fitting together.

2. Small power required to work them.

3. The uniformity, firmness, smoothness, and lightness which the frozen cream presents.

4. In the large power or hand freezer, the readiness by which the freezer can be con-
nected or detached by the clutch when the fly-wheel is in motion.

5. The quality and ornamental design of the coal vases, including receptacle for the fire
irons and the top plate, with hooks for holding them in place.

61. Charles G. Blatchley, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

HORIZONTAL ICE CREAM FREEZER.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Economy of ice, being perfectly air-tight.

2. Economy of labor, there being scarcely any resistance to be overcome in its operation.

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3. Economy of time.

4. Uniformity and perfection in the results attained.

5. Durability ; all the important castings used being of best annealed metal, either
tinned or galvanized.

62. David W. Low, Gloucester, Mass., U. S.

ICE CRUSHERS.

Report, — Commended for the following reasons :

r. The readiness with which the feed of the machine can be changed at the option of
ihe operator to render the broken ice fine or coarse, and without stopping or checking the
operation of the machine.

2. These consist of teeth on shafts revolving in opposite directions, one slower than the
other, acting as a feeder as well as breaker.

3. The rapidity and ease of its operation.

4. The uniform size of the ice broken, which goes further and is more efficient in fish
packing, freezing ice-cream, etc.

63. C. W. Packer, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

COG-WHEEL AND DOUBLE-ACTION ICE-CREAM FREEZER.

Report, — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Durability and excellent construction.

2. The simplicity and perfection of the mechanical arrangements, by which cream, fruits,
etc., are frozen.

3. The novel construction of the dasher or beater, having, in addition to a pivoted spring
scraper conforming itself closely to the inner surface of the can, which removes the frozen
cream as rapidly as formed, deflectors attached to and forming a part of the beater, which
act upon the frozen cream in the same manner as a paddle in freezing by hand, and also
direct the unfrozen portions to the sides of the can, by which the whole body of cream is
constantly changing position, and is most thoroughly beaten, thus insuring rapid freezing,
and also producing the smoothness and richness requisite in good ice-cream ; also the action
of the deflectors in combination with the lifters or cutters, producing the greatest amount
of agitation, renders it unnecessary that the small or family sizes should be made with
double gearing.

4. The dashers are galvanized instead of tinned, thus rendering them more solid and
durable, unaffected by chemical acids, and leaving no metallic taste in the cream.

5. The facility with which the detachable hinged cover is instantly removed, thus giving
free access to the can.

6. Its adaptation not only to family purposes, but for the use of confectioners, hotels,
steamships, etc.

64. Robert Ulrich Etzensberger, London, England.

APPARATUS FOR MAKING INFUSIONS OF COFFEE, TEA, ETC.

Report, — Commended for the following reasons :

1. The rapid and complete infusion in large or small quantities, without direct contact
of the source of heat with the parts containing the substance or substances to be acted
upon.

2. Its general adaptability to both household and public use.

3. Its compactness, ready adjustability, and design of mechanical parts as applied to the
particular object of making infusions.

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65. George Cheavin, Boston, Lincolnshire, England.

PATENT RAPID WATER FILTERS.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Rapidity of filtering process, especially in its application to river, rain, lake, or pond
water, however foul, effectually relieving it of all impurities and organic matter.

2. Simplicity of construction.

3. Facility with which cleansed.

4. Durability.

66. George Jennings, Stangate, London, England.

TIP-UP WASH-BASIN, VALVE WATER-CLOSETS AND TRAPS, KITCHEN AND SLOP SINKS,
BATH TUB, WATER-METERS, AND WATER-WASTE PREVENTERS.
Report. — A splendid display of goods, characterized by beauty of design, skillful w<M-k-
manship, simplicity, cleanliness and durability, efficiency, and novelty of application.

67. Dillwyn Smith, Liverpool, England.

APPARATUS FOR DISINFECTING CABINS AND HOLDS OF SHIPS, WARDS OF HOSPITALS,

ETC.

Report. — An admirable apparatus for the purpose intended.

68. Air-Burning Co. (Limited), Glasgow, Scotland.

AIR-BURNING FLAT-IRONS.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. The peculiar mode of heating by a combination of atmospheric air with gas previous
to ignition in proportions which effect complete combustion.

2. A regular steady heat is generated at any temperature.

3. The iron can be heated ready for use in two minutes.

4. The heat can be turned off or on, increased or reduced, at pleasure, the flat-iron being
heated intensely is always clean, and, as no furnace is used, the ironer never requires to
leave the table.

5. More work can be done in a given time by this apparatus, and at cheaper rates. The
finish is superior, without the stains in ordinary ironing.

69. Alexander Anderson, Canada.

BREAD- KNIFE.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. A ragged-edge knife, moving in a graduated groove, and slicing bread with great
rapidity and precision of any width.

2. Its cheapness, simplicity, and durability.

70. James McElvey, St. Catherine's, Canada.

CREAM GATHERER.

Report. — Commended as an ingeniously devised and valuable means of preserving milk
and cream in sweetness and purity.

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71. N. & J. Tremouroux Brothers, Brussels, Belgium.

UTENSILS FOR HOUSE USE IN POLISHED, VARNISHED, BRONZED, TINNED, AND ENAMELED

CAST IRON.

Report, — Commended for great variety of goods, skill and smoothness of work, perfect
whiteness of enamel, and general excellence.

72. Adolphe Le Tellier, Brussels, Belgium.

FILTER.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. It has admirably combined all the good qualities of a good practical filter.

2. Superior workmanship.

3. Moderate expenses.

73. Francisco de Paula Isaura, Barcelona, Spain.

BRASS AND PLATED-BRASS BRAZERO HEATERS, KITCHEN UTENSILS, CANDLICSTICKS, CHIM-
NEY RANGE, FIRE-POKER.

Report, — Commended for originality, excellence of stamping, and superior workmanship.

74. Joh. Georg Normann, Nuremberg, Germany.

FORMS (tin) FOR CONFECTIONERS.

Report. — Commended for the extraordinary number and variety of moulds for confec-
tioners' uses ; excellence of material and workmanship.

75. C. Blunck, Christiania, Norway.

JGES, STEAM VALVES, STEAM COCKS, STEj^
CLOSETS FOR SHIPS.

Report. — Conmiended for excellence of material and general good workmanship.

GUN- METAL WATER GAUGES, STEAM VALVES, STEAM COCKS, STEAM JOINTS, AND WATER-
CLOSETS FOR SHIPS.

76. M. £. Nord & Son, Christiania, Norway.

REFRIGERATOR.

Report. — Commended for good workmanship, economical aiTangement, and admirable
adaptability to the purposes of a family refrigerator.

77. A. G. Myers. New York, N. Y., U. S.

FIELD'S FLUSH TANK.

Report, — It performs in a very satisfactory way the work of flushing a drain or sewer on
a plan that is novel, ingenious, and, to a good degree, effective.

78. Simes & Tate, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

THE SPONGIO-KAOLIN WATER FILTER.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Simplicity of construction, convenience of form, and thoroughness of execution.

2. Its ready adaptation to any hydrant, and its comparative indestructibility.

3. The composition of the filtering pad, which is an original invention, consisting of fur,
sponge, kaolin, and charcoal woven together into a compact, inseparable, and indestructible
disk or pad, through which the water passes, leaving all sediment and impurities upon the
upper side.

4. The facility with which the sediment is washed off by simply inverting the filter.

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79. Cooper, Jones, & Cadbury, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S. ^

WATER-CLOSETS, COMPRESSION FAUCETS, PUMPS, FOUNTAIN JETS, AND WATER GAUGES.
Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Completeness of exhibit, excellent designs, and general good workmanship.

2. The superiority of the water-closet exhibit, combining simplicity, compactness, origi-
nality, and sound sanitary principles. The method of controlling the vacuum chamber is
quite original ; also regulation of the screw, which admits of the widest range in amount
of water supplied at any one operation of the closet, being capable of variation of from
one gill to one hundred gallons at pleasure. It works equally well under three pounds as
one hundred and sixty pounds pressure, and avoids concussion in closing.

3. The mode of packing their compression cocks and preventing leakage; also its sim-
plicity.

4. Their brass finishing lathe, in the play of tool -elevating or adjusting arrangement ; in
the design of slide which brings both handles in front ; also in the arrangement of the
screw-chasing gearing and of the cross-stop motion on the tail stock, all indicating origi-
nality and adaptability.

5. General excellence of the exhibits.

80. W. F. Wheeler, Boston, Mass., U. S.

DISINFECTOR APPARATUS.

Report. — This apparatus of various devices seeks to disinfect water for unnals, water-
closets, etc., by making a solution of carbolic acid or other disinfecting agent, in soap
form, in an enclosed cup, from which it passes directly to the foul surfaces.

Commended for the following reasons :

1. It is entirely novel.

2. Very efficient.

3. Applies the agent exactly as wanted.

4. It is economical.

81. F. J. Delker, M.D., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

WATER FILTER.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Its durability.

2. Its mechanical arrangement, consisting of a conical-shaped cylinder (of iron or terra-
cotta) widest at the bottom ; a filtering jacket of a conical shape, widest at the top^ secured
by flanges to the outside cylinder, the outlet or pure-water pipe being in the centre, and
retained in position by flanges ; the intervening space is filled and packed with filtering
material, such as gravel, pumice-stone, charcoal, or any other substance best suited for the
various waters containing organic matter in suspension. The water entering at the top
circulates around the jacket through its perforating and filtering material into the outlet or
pure-water pipe, which is similarly perforated, passing out in such stream as the hydraulic
pressure admits. The filter is regulated for size and capacity according to such pressure
from one up to forty-eight inches' outlet. Ample space is afibrded in the bottom for the
collection of all impurities, where, owing to the conical shape of the jacket or cylinder,
matter held in suspension will collect. Specific provision is made for cleaning by the
addition of a mud outlet at the bottom, by which, at will, the whole force of the inlet
water is expended in cleaning either by reversion of inlet-pipe to the pure-water outlet, or
by allowing the pure water already in the house, with the supply stream, to escape through
the mud spigot.

3. Its facility in purifying the largest stream, as well as for the minor domestic uses.

4. Its capacity of thorough filtering without delaying the water supply.

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82. Austin, Obdyke, & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

A GALVANIZED IRON EXPANDING WATER CONDUCTOR.

Report. — Commended for:

1. A conductor so constructed as to yield to tlie expansive force of the water that may
become frozen therein, and thus prevent the pipe from bursting in winter.

2. Excellence of workmanship and material.

83. Moorhead Clay Works, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

DRAIN AND SEWER PIPES.

Report. — This is a very superior, extensive, and varied exhibit of terra- cotla ware. The
material is of the finest character ; the workmanship the best.

84. Isidor Brach, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

REVERSIBLE WATER FILTER, WATER aX>LER WITH COMBINATION ICE CAN AND FILTER

COMBINED.

Report. — Commended for the rapidity and thoroughness of the filtering process, the felt
used collecting the impurities from the outside, and the compressed intermediate carbon
purifying and deodorizing the fluid.

85. Wakefield Earth Closet Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

EARTH CLOSETS AND CABINET EARTH CLOSETS.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Unusual capacity of reservoir, rendering filling less frequent.

2. Automatic arrangement by which the closing of the lid distributes the necessary
quantity of earth.

3. Durability, handsome appearance, and cheapness.

4. The cabinet closet and earth chamber pail are characterized by lightness, portability,
simplicity, durability, and capacity.

86. Charles E. Fowler, New Haven, Conn., U. S.

PLANS OF SEWERAGE AND DRAINAGE.

Report. — It is a neat and systematic manner of keeping the plans, records, and infor-
mation concerning the public work of the city. The execution is admirable throughout.

87. J. D. Cook, Toledo, Ohio, U. S.

WATER TANK FOR PUBLIC WATER SUPPLY.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Its economy of fuel and labor.

2. Its prevention of fluctuations in water pressure, incident to suddenly opening and
closing fire hydrants and other eflluent openings.

3. Its avoidance of intermittent piston velocity.

4. Its assured greater immunity from accidents and repairs, thus prolonging the efficiency
and life of pumping engines.

5. The auxiliary or small stand-pipe is an ever-ready medium for securing the necessary
fire pressure, independent of the tank when the flow line in the latter shall have been
reduced by domestic supply.

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%%. The Odor.ess Excavating Apparatus Co., Baltimore, Md., U. S.

APPARATUS FOR EMPTYING CESSPOOLS, ETC.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Superior efficiency, the pump and valves being of entirely novel construction, which
enables the refuse usually found in sinks to pass freely through without clogging.

2. Economy, the work being accomplished in the daytime with far greater facility than
by the old method.

3. The great sanitary advantages it presents, the operation being effected without the
least odor or offense, the air being thus relieved of noxious and poisonous gases.

89. George Wagner, Washington, D. C, U. S.

TRANSPARENT GLASS VENTILATOR.

Report. — Conmiended for the following reasons :

1. The ventilator is of glass, and applied in pairs to windows, one upon the inside of the
lower sash, and one upon the outside of the upper sash, so as not to interfere with the
opening and closing of either sash.

2. The ventilator admits of a variety of decoration.

3. Its qualities as a true ventilator are good, while its transparency allows the free ad-
mission of light and sunshine.

4. It is exceedingly simple in constniction and economical in price.

5. It is readily adapted to all sorts of windows.

90. J. W. Bracher, Protective Ventilator Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

VENTILATORS.

Report. — The fixture designed by this exhibitor for application to the windows of rail-
cars or houses (the sash being raised a few inches to allow of its insertion), whereby the
air is brought in with an upward inclination, passed through a porous agent, as cotton cv
loose felt, and so deprived of undue force and of its contained dust and dirt, constitutes, in
my judgment, —

1. A novel improvement in ventilating apparatus that meets, to a considerable degree, a
want (particularly as adapted to rail-cars) for a ventilator and dust-trap combined.

2. An apparatus of inconsiderable expense.

3. An apparatus of general availability.

91. Lewis W. Leeds, New York, N. Y., U. S.

DIAGRAMS FOR VENTILATING AND HEATING.

Report. — These diagrams illustrate in a variety of ways, and with great skill, the true
principles of ventilation and heating as applied to dwellings, etc.
They are perfect in plan and detail.

92. The Tuttle & Bailey Manufacturing Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

VERTICAL WHEEL REGISTERS FOR HEATING AND VENTILATION.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. A complete exhibit embracing every variety of registers for heating and ventilation.

2. Superior movements, having little friction, and not liable to get out of order.

3. Superior castings and general workmanship.

4. Variety, permanency, and inex]>ensiveness of finish.

5. Taste and originality, combining elegance with strength.

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93. J. C. Bates, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

VENTILATORS.

Report. — The adjustable ventilators, arranged for attachment to the top and bottom rails
of the sashes of a window (thus providing for a double current of air, susceptible of regu-
lation without the raising or lowering of the sashes, and directing the current at such an
angle as not to impinge upon the person), seem to constitute :

1. A novel improvement in ventilating apparatus on sound principles.

2. A fixture of small expense ; and

3. An improvement of general availability.

94. S. A. Wight, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

VENTILATOR AND DUST-TRAP.

Report. — The apparatus of this exhibitor, which is a simple arrangement whereby air is
received through wire netting under a show window, and, passing through a shallow air-box
under the floor of the window, has its dust engaged by interdigitating leaves, and is dis-
charged above and behind the fruit or other article exhibited, has these merits •-

1. It quite effectively cools the fruit, etc., under and behind which it passes.

2. It engages the dust that would be thrown upon the goods.

3. It is inexpensive and easy of application.

4. It is novel.

95. George Pepper, Windsor, Victoria, Australia.

CEILING AND WALL VENTILATORS.

Report. — They are well adapted for aiding, in their respective forms, in promoting venii*
lation.

96. Edward Murphy, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

CENTRE FLOWERS AND VENTILATORS.

Report. — They are well adapted for aiding in promoting ventilation, in their respective
forms.

97. Cornelius & Sons, Philadelphia, Pa.. U. S.

GAS FIXTURES.
Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Extent of exhibit (including fine crystal chandelier in Art Gallery).

2. Neatness of finish.

3. Excellence of lap-welded joints and key fittings.

4. General excellence of workmanship.

98. Providence Gas Burner Co., Providence, R. I., U. S.

GAS BURNERS, DROP-LIGHT SOCKETS, AND GAS HEATERS.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Very large and varied exhibit of gas burners.

2. An ingenious improvement in check burners.

3. An improved heating burner.

4. An improved drop-light socket.

5. Thorough workmanship and finish.

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99. George D. Rollins, PhilAdclphia, Pa., U. S.

THE TRIUMPH AUTOMATIC GAS BURNER.

Report.— The design of this burner is to regulate at a certain height the flow of gas
under high pressures, principally on street lamps, any increase of force in the " mains'*
partially closing the burner. Commended for the following reasons :

1 . It is simple.

2. Automatic.

3. Cheap and economical in use.

4. It is efficient.

100. Bradley & Hubbard Manufacturing Co., West Meriden, Conn., and New

York, N. Y., U. S.

GAS AND OIL FIXTURES, AND LAMPS.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Remarkably good finish and tasteful design in iron fixtures.

2. Special devices for safety in attaching kerosene lamps.

3. Superior device for raising and lowering fixtures.

4. Fine exhibit of table (oil) lamps.

loi. Archer & Pancoast Manufacturing Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

GAS FIXTURES AND CHURCH METAL WORK.

Report, — Commended for the following reasons ;

1. Novelty and excellence of design in centre slide light, securing regularity and cer-
tainty of movement. An invention of considerable value.

2. Beauty of frost-work finish on brass fixtures.

3. Good exhibit of colored ecclesiastical fixtures.

102. Mitchell, Vance, & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

GAS FIXTURES AND ECCLESIASTICAL WARE.

Report. — Commended for the following ret^ons :

1. This exhibit is of a large, complete, and varied character, of special excellence in de-
sign, workmanship, and finish, and is arranged with great taste and skill.

2. In gilt and polished brass gas fixtures the exhibit is of excellence in the wide variety
of designs employed, its elegance and artistic character, and the high order of finish at-
tained. In combinations of metal with porcelain or glass, rich effects have been here
produced.

3. In steel-finished fixtures a novelty of beauty and durability is presented.

4. The " double slide" extension light presents certain features of durability and regu-
larity of motion that are of merit, while the arrangements for avoiding the heating and
smoking of the rest of the chandelier are unique.

5. In bronze fixtures, both real and spelter, this exhibit is of excellence, as well in
workmanship and finish as in chaste character and tastefulness of design.

6. In crystal gas fixtures the size of the integral parts, the integrity of the character of
the goods as " crystal" (few wires or chains being used, the arms, etc., being solid crystal),
the beauty and taste as well as novelty of the designs employed, and the excellence of the
material used, give this part of the exhibit prominence and value.

7. In ecclesiastical ware, altar and sanctuary lights, candlesticks, coronas, chancel rails,
"ic, the several exhibits of the medieval and Gothic orders are of high merit.

The bronze and brass railings for church use are of excellence and beauty, being archi-
' tecturally correct in their respective schools.

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103. Baker, Arnold, & Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

GAS FIXTURES.

Report. — I. A line of brass gas fixtures of novelty, superior design, and subdued finish.
The modified " toning" of color is a marked improvement for these wares.

2. They exhibit fine specimens of wheel burnishing on fixtures.

3. They offer unique patterns in gas stands (in the "toning" of color).

4. Extra fine work in platinum-finished gas fixtures.

5. They exhibit Meigs's solar water light, for intensifying and directing light to given
points ; a valuable agent for use in conveying light in magazines and unlighted closets.

104. Dreer, Smith, & Dreer, Philadelphia* Pa., U. S.

BERFORD GAS SUNLIGHT APPARATUS.

Report. — This apparatus, which consists of a glass bowl attached to an ordinary ceiling
gas fixture (being filled with water), and a gas jet extending over the centre of the bowl,
casts a soft light upon objects beneath, thereby affording a cheap, safe, and simple substi-
tute for the ordinary drop light.

105. Mt. Washington Glass Co., New Bedford, Mass., U. S.

CRYSTAL CHANDEUERS, OPAL LIGHTS, GLOBES, AND SHADES, AND DECX)RATED OPAL

CHANDELIERS.

Report. — Crystal chandeliers.

1. An excellent exhibit of crystal goods.

2. Strength, symmetry, and thoroughness of fitting, the entire chandelier being con-
structed by this house.

3. A novelty consisting of a centre slide light for crjrstal dining-room chandelier.
Decorated opal chandelier. Of unique and beautiful design, workmanship, and finish.
Opal shades. I. These are of purity and free from flinty substance.

2. The large size of opal goods.

106. Smith Brothers, New Bedford, Mass., U. S.

DECORATED GLASS SHADES AND GLOBES.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Strength, brilliancy, and richness of decoration.

2. In gold finish, and especially in dead gold, excellent work.

3. The base and overlaid work excellent, and the artistic work uniformly of excellent
quality.

4. Toughness of material, evenness of preparation, and finish.

5. Cost of goods moderate.

107. Wm. B. Hazzard, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SKYLIGHT SHADE.

Report. — It can be adjusted at once to the place required for photographic uses.

108. August Wilhelm, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

CEILING REFLECTOR.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. It is of original construction.

2. By placing the lights between the varied-angled reflecting surfaces, the illuminating
power is secured.

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3. By ihe arrangement of the angles of reflection the dazzling effect of some forms of
reflector is avoided.

4. The readiness with which the reflector can be removed, cleansed, and replaced is a
special advantage.

109. American Calcium Light Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

IMPROVED CALCIUM LIGHT APPARATUS.
Report. — It is well made and finished, bums without hissing, and gives a strong, steady,
intense light.

1 10. American Reflector Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

METALLIC REFLECTORS.
Report. — This reflector is of superior construction, nicety of adjustment, and evident
durability. Being metallic, its surfaces are capable of receiving the highest polish, renew-
able at pleasure.

III. Qen. M. C. Meigs, U. S. A., Washington, D. C, U. S.

HYDRO-D'OPTIC LIGHT.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. This is a combination of a supplementary bracket, adapted to be mounted on an
ordinary gas burner, a hollow lens mounted on a supplementary bracket and adapted to
contain transparent liquids, and a burner also mounted on said bracket.

2. The supplementary bracket provided with a socket adapted to fit on an ordinary gas
burner; a support for a dioptic lens, and a burner adjustable both vertically and horizon-
tally.

3. An admirable invention.

112. Edward Miller & Co., Meriden, Conn., U. S.

LAMPS AND LAMP TRIMMINGS.
Report. — Lamps commended for the following reasons :

1. Variety, taste, and good finish noticeable in the entire exhibit.

2. The •• non-ejlplosive lamp" of this exhibit is believed to be well adapted for securing
safety, brilliant light, and perfect combustion.

Lamp trimmings of good material and workmanship.
Lanterns commended for the following reasons :

1. Strength and good workmanship throughout.

2. The *« No-Chimney Burner** is a special advantage in lanterns.

113. Globe Qas-Light Co., Philadelphia, Pa.. U. S.

SELF GAS-MAKING STREET LAMPS.

Report. — This is a street lamp in which naphtha, being suspended in a reservoir on the
outside of the lamp near its top, is allowed to flow to a burner within ; this is so constructed
as to allow the burning of a small amount of alcohol when the lamp is lit, to volatilize the
naphtha in the tube. Gas is generated, and continues to be, as long as the supply in the
reservoir lasts.

Commended for the following reasons :

1. It affords an effective gas-light for places where gas is not manufactured.

2. It is of small expense.

3. When properly cared for, it is cleanly and safe.

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114. WUliam G. Creamer & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

CAR LAMPS.

Report, — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Superiority of design and finish, and novel adjustments for safety and convenience.

2. Cheapness in price and economy in use.

115. C. F. A. Hinrichs, New York, N. Y., U. S.

GERMAN STUDENT LAMPS.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. This lamp furnishes a safe, steady, and brilliant light, without smell or smoke.

2. It is easily regulated, and may be filled without danger while burning.

3. It is of graceful form and good workmanship and finish.

4. It is economical in use.

116. C. L. Heywood & J. M. Bruce, Boston, Mass., U. S.

VESPER-ELEVATING STREET-LAMP POST.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. The post, being hollow, by a chain and-pulley attachment allows the lamp, which w
suspended from its top, to be lowered, cleaned, filled, or extinguished with facility.

2. It works very easily.

3. It is attractive.

4. In towns where gas is unavailable it must prove a useful arrangement.

117. Hitchcock Lamp Co., Watertown, Jefferson County, N. Y., U. S.

A MECHANICAL LAMP FOR BURNING HEAVY OII^.

Report. — This is a most ingenious invention, whereby, by means of the finest mechanism
uniting a pump and a blower, the highest illuminating results are obtained.
Commended for the following reasons :

1. The device, without being complex, is most wonderfully ingenious.

2. The workmanship is of the highest possible character throughout.

3. The mechanism is practically indestructible by wear or ill usage.

4. It has no chimney, and emits no smoke, gas, or odor.

5. It is compact, symmetrical, and perfectly sealed against the intrusion of foreign matter.

6. It can be filled while burning.

7. Sediment cannot accumulate in the oil tank, as it is delivered with the oil to the flame
and there burned.

8. The quantity of light is not diminished by oscillation, jarring, or removal from place
to place.

9. By photometric test we find it to operate most effectively at sevenleen-candle power ;
it will undoubtealy maintain fifteen-candle power for nearly twelve hours.

10. Both in original cost and daily use it is undoubtedly a gain in economy in lamp
service of its character.

11. The tenacity of the flame is very superior, it being very diflicult to extinguish except
in the regular way.

12. Its air passages are kept clear by the overflow of the surplus of oil, which is delivered
to the flame and flows back into the tank.

13. For railway use especially, ships' use, and all places requiring a powerful lamp at
small cost, thi"* must prove an advantage of the greatest value.

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ii8. J. W. Baitlctt, New York, N. Y., U. S.

IMPROVED STREET TAMPS.
Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. They are correctly-reflecting street lamps.

2. They diffuse the light.

3. Their shape offers graceful proportions, with great powers of resisting breakage.

4. They are easily cleaned.

5. They are economical.

6. The arrangement for the attachment of street names is convenient.

7. They are of thorough workmanship throughout.

1 19. Keen ft Hagerty, Baltimore, Md., U. S.
hagerty's patent street lamps.
Report. — Commended for the followmg reasons :

1. They are simple in construction.

2. They diffuse the light readily.

3. By the hinge top the removal of the globe for cleansing is made remarkably easy

4. They are of general good workmanship and strength.

120. Williams, Page, ft Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

railway and steamship lamps.

Report, — Car lamps. They have special adjustment for safety, cleanliness, and for pre-
venting the dropping of oil. They are simple, strong, and ornamental. Ail springs are
clamped, thereby preventing rattling.

Postal-car lamp. This lamp is so arranged as to prevent shadows falling upon the work.

Steamship lamps. Improved globe chimney, non-shadow lamp for chart room ; an im-
provement of value and utility.

Hurricane lamps. A superior " double current" lamp, that cannot be blown out.

Commended for general excellence in workmanship and finish.

121. Excelsior Lantern Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

LANTERNS.
Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. A large and varied exhibit of ship, railroad, and hand lanterns, of good design,
strength, and finish.

2. Special devices of convenience and safety in ship, railroad, and hand lanterns.

122. Wilhelm ft Neumann, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

POST LANTERNS AND SILVERED MICA REFLECTORS.

Report. — Post lanterns. Commended for the following reasons :

1. Large variety (twenty-four styles), and superiority of design and workmanship.

2. The sectional globes of this exhibit, permitting the renewal of a broken section with
out the removal of the whole globe, are an improvement of decided merit.

Silvered mica reflectors. These are of great durability and of excellent reflective power.

123. Walton Brothers, New York, N. Y., U. S.

LANTERNS.
Report, — The exhibit of lanterns made by this house is varied in character, and in all
its departments evinces superior workmanship, marked originality in design, good finish.

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GROUP XIV. 67

and in ship and railway lanterns considerable novelty and ingenuity of adaptation. In
nickel-finished goods their exhibit is good, and the extra attention paid to strength and
security in their " mining*' and " magazine" lanterns is evident. Their novelties in pocket
and hand lanterns, with and without reflectors, are each excellent in their line.

124. Holmes, Booth, ft Haydens, Waterbury, Conn., U. S.

KEROSENE OIL BURNERS AND GAS FIXTURES.

Report, — A very large exhibit, of wide variety, showing superior workmanship, strength,
and durability, novelty of design, special excellence in gas tubings, and very superior
material.

125. F. H. Lovcll & Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

DRUMMOND KEROSENE BURNER.

Report, — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Simplicity of construction.

2. Improvement in contour of wick, it being convex in shape.

3. Regularity in ratchet movement.

4. Ingenious device for free circulation of air, coupled with protection against heating
of oil.

5. Improvement in shape and toughness of chimney.

126. Cleveland Non-Explosive Lamp Co., Cleveland, Ohio, U. S.

GENERAL KEROSENE GOODS, METALLIC SAFETY LAMPS, AND NICKEL PLATING.

Report. — ^The non-explosive lamp is, —

1. Safe.

2. The escape of its vapor to the flame is provided for.

3. Its arrangements for a supply of air to the wick secure complete combustion.

4. It has new devices for cleanliness.

5. It may be filled with safety while burning.

6. It is odorless.

The nickel finish of these goods is of high character, and the workmanship good.

127. H. H. Doty, Norfolk, Va., U. S.

ARGAND AND TRIANGULAR KEROSENE BURNERS.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. These burners are arranged on a decidedly improved plan for securing perfect com-
bnstion of the oil.

2. As a result, the burning is without offensive odor.

3. The degree of brilliancy and whiteness attained is extreme, as abo that of steadiness.

4. The arrangement of air-flues, wicks, and chimneys are convenient, and render prac-
ticable the use of petroleum oils by light-house and other services.

5. The workmanship and fitting throughout are of thorough description.
A strong point is its economy.

128. J. Gardner ft Sons, London, England.

LAMPS AND CANDLESTICKS.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Richness of finish in house-lamps in frosted and repouss^ silver, nickel, and brass.

2. Students' lamps of various devices and unusual cheapness.

44 689

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68 REPORTS ON AWARDS,

3. Remarkable ingenuity of device and constrnction in an arctic lamp, effectually ar-
ranged to prevent congelation of the oil.

Candlesticks. Commended for — I. Novel patterns of candlesticks with chimneys to
prevent their being blown out, the air being suj^lied from the bottom. 2. Elegance of
design and extreme beauty of workmanship in silver candlesticks.

Copper lanterns. Commended for good finish and design.

129. James Green ft Nephew, London, England.

CRYSTAL CHANDELIEKS AND WALL CANDELABRA.

Report, — Commended for the following reasons :

1. This exhibit is of the highest degree of excellence in its class. The character of the
material, the btauty of design, and thoroughness of construction, are quite unrivaled.

2. In wall and stand candelabra and wall-lights for gas or candles, the brilliancy, white-
ness, and purity of the glass are especially worthy of recognition.

3. The finish of the setting is believed to be of more than ordinaiy durability.

130. John Mcllwraith, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

TINNED COMPOSITION GAS-PIPE.

Report, — It is of excellent construction (hydraulic pressed) and of apparent durability.

131. Modeste Kittary, St. Petersburg, Russia.

PETROLEUM LAMP FOR HOSPITAL USE.

Report, — It is ingeniously adapted for use on the wall or ceiling, burning for twelve
hours, and affording an equable light

132. Charles Robinot, Paris, Prance.

GAS FIXTURES AND GAS FURNACES.

Report, — Commended for a good general exhibit, of fair workmanship and finish, with
some novelty of design.

133. MuUer ft Co., Clermont, near Li^e, Belgium.

WICKS OF SAFETY FOR MINERS.

Report. — Commended for the cheapness of these products and their superior quality.

134. Bronse-Ware and Tin-Castings Manufacturing Co., Berlin, Germany.

GAS LUSTRES AND GAS CANDELABRA.

Report, — Commended for variety, richness of design, and superior workmanship.

135. C. A. Kleeman, Erfurt, Germany.

LAMPS AND LAMP FIXTURES.

Report. — General exhibit of lamps and lamp fixtures of good character, style, and va-
riety. The bracket, postal-car, and ship lamps, with lock fonts for burning heavy oils, are
of marked merit. The drop-lamp (on the Penobscot Indian device), being held the finner
the harder pulled, is a novelty in its way.

German student lamp. In this the double draught-flues secure complete combustion,
the wick being movable on the screw plan. It has a lock font, preventing the spilling of
oil when the lamp is upset. No removal of shade or chimney necessary to light the lamp.
Commended for thoroughness of workmanship and elegance of finish.

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CROUP XIV. 6p

136. I. von Schwarz, Nuremberg, Qermany.

SOAPSTONE GAS-BURNERS, ARGAND, AND COOKING BURNERS.

Report, — Commended for exactness and excellence of workmanship, and quality of mate-
rial used.

137. Edward Wattis, Jr., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

WATTIS' PATENT POCKET-FLASK.

Report, — ^The bottle has square sides, and about a half-inch from the top of the neck a
groove b made around the neck of the bottle. The metal screw collar is cast with squares
to fit the neck of the bottle, which prevents (he metal from turning. The bottle is then
put on a lathe, held to a chuck at one end, and properly supported at the other end with a
suitable shape. The metal of the collar is forced into the groove by the contact of the tool
under the speed-off, and when the metal cap with its cork lining is screwed down, the
cork is brought in close contact with the top of the glass neck, thereby making it perfectly
air-tight, preserving the flavor and purity of its contents for any length of time.

It is unquestionably the best process extant for securing the metal collars to the neck of
bottles without the aid of any cement or any adhesive.

138. Ella Q. Haller, New York, N. Y., U. S.

RESERVOIR FRUIT JAR.

Report. — ^The object of the covering or top reservoir is to supply the syrup as fast as it
becomes absorbed by the fruit, so that the jar may be always full, and the contents fully
covered, thus protecting them from mould, decay, and discoloration.

This cover has a natural atmospheric pressure joint, but has fastenings also added to
render it doubly secure.

Has three different and distinct joints.

It (the cover or reservoir) is of blown glass, thus doing away with use of metal wire
rings, springs, and extra fastenings of every sort, which add greatly to the cost of the jars.

It is the only jar that covers the fruit with extra syrup by a mode at once simple and
effective.

139. Duncan Cameron, New York, N. Y., U. S.

STEAM FRUIT PRESERVERS.

Report, — It presents an expeditious method of cooking fruit ready for sealing, in a re-
markably short time, with or without sugar, preserving natural flavor and color for an in-
definite period.

140. B. P. Sturtevant, Boston, Mass., U. S.

MACHINE FOR DRYING LUMBER AND OTHER MATERIALS.

Report, — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Its less first cost than an effective amount of steam pipe as usually arranged, its com-
pactness, convenience of erection, capability of regulating the quality and quantity of heat,
its less loss from radiation, its less liability to leakage and consequent damage to goods.

2. Its adaptation to hospitals, prisons, and public buildings, not only for heating, but
ventilation, under all conditions, allowing the air itself, before its introduction into the
rooms, to be saturated with moisture or disinfectants.

141. Stuart, Peterson, ft Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

TINNED AND ENAMELED CAST-IRON HOLLOW WARE.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

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REPORTS ON AWARDS,

1. Size, finish, form, and durability.

2. Superior material and workmanship.

3. Free from metallic oxides, and therefore adapted to chemical and culinary use.

142. The Keller Manufacturing Co., Hanisburg, Pa., U. S.

GRADUATED STANDARD QUART MEASURE.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons:

1. Its formation from one piece of sheet metal, gauged inside, and graduated with small
offsets.

2. The precision of the graduation, and its accordance with the United States standard.

3. From its inverted cone shape it is easy to note the amount of liquid when filling, and
very easily cleansed.

4. Its neatness, simplicity, and practical usefulness.

143. Tatham ft Brothers, New York, N. Y., and Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

TIN-LINED IRON PIPE; TIN-LINED LEAD PIPE; BLOCK-TIN PIPE.
Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. Merit consists of the combination of the cleanliness and purity of tin with the strength
of iron, thus making a strong, durable, and cleanly pipe for the conveyance of water.

2. The accomplishment of a secure and perfect joint, without solder, neither air nor
water by any possibility entering between the tin and the iron.

3. Superior roundness and solidity, smooth polish, and uniformity of size.

144. Corrugated Elbow Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

CORRUGATED SHEET METAL ELBOWS.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. The manufacture of the elbows is in perfect circular form, from one piece of metal,
thus avoiding seam or joint, the corrugations adding to its strength and beauty.

2. The freedom of draught the curve affords over the sharp angle of ordinary elbows
and the prevention of any accumulation of soot or other debris.

3. Its economy.

145. Charles P. Henis, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

ADJUSTABLE ELBOW FOR STOVE OR HEATER.

Report. — Commended for the following reasons :

1. A pipe constructed in sections, upon the radius of the circle in which the elbow is
curved, and making the sections alternately solid and open, the open sections being so con-
structed as to clamp together the solid ones, which are held firmly in any desired position
by adjustable clamps.

2. Its adjustability, and rigidity after adjustment.

3. Its simplicity.

4. It gives a curved instead of angular passage for the air draught

5. Cost of production trifling.

146. Ernest W. Bowditch, Boston, Mass., U. S.

PLANS FOR RURAL PARKS FOR BOSTON, ETC.

Report. — ^Thcse plans exhibit a rare degree of skill in dealing with the matter here
under consideration.
The scope of the plans and their execution are of marked merit

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GROUP Xil^. yi

147. WiUiams ft Co.,. Nashua, N. H., U. S.

SOAPSTONE GOODS, INCLUDING STOVES, SINKS, WASH-TRAYS, ETC
Report. — Commended for beauty of design, excellence of material and workmanship,
softness and beauty of color, cleanliness, freedom from disagreeable odor, its strength and
non-liability to crack or leak, its superior sanitary quality as compared with its passage
through iron.

148. John Danks, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

STEAM VALVES, <X>CKS, VALVES, SUET LUBRICATORS, INJECTORS, SLUICE VALVES, GENERAL

BRASS FOUNDRY.
Report, — Commended for variety of patterns, purity of metal, and excellent mechanical
skill and workmanship.

149. J. Hyde Fisher, Chicago, 111., U. S.

REFRIGERATORS.
Report, — Commended for a large assortment of different sizes of refrigerators, made strong
and on a principle that will secure a satisfactory result. The frame is made double, of wood
with intervening space according to size of the machine, which is filled with pulverized
chaxooal. Above the provision rooms is the ice chamber, which is made larger than usual
in order that it may be filled with ice, and, as waste occurs, kept filled up. The larger the
supply the less the waste. The principle of ventilation consists in each chamber having
separate flues for warm and cold air. The former are placed at the top of the provision
rooms, running back and entering the ice chamber at the top. The cold air from the ice
chamber passes into the provision rooms under the point where the warm air escapes. In
this way a current is established, the ice itself being the purifier. The water-pipe from the
ice chamber is placed in the partition dividing the two provision rooms.

150. Penn Qalvaqic Works (P. ft P. P. Chase), Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

GALVANIZED KITCHEN GOODS OF ALL DESCRIPTIONS.

Report. — I. Superiority of castings — ^no crevices — uncovered.

2. The absence of tin, generally resorted to as a casting.

3. Excellent designs and superior workmanship.

151. J. Reynolds ft Son, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SHAKING* AND CLINKER-CtTTTING GRATE.

Report. — Commended as well adapted for removing the superfluous ashes from the fuel
of a furnace or fire-pot, and for crushing the clinkers, stone, and other obstructions that
accumulate on the grate. It consists of a frame in which is placed a series of rocking
shafts or axles on which are cast or attached a number of projecting interlocking teeth or
cutters, having ribs on their sides ; the rocking bars are connected underneath by a bar,
and operated by a lever, any movement of which causes the teeth on one shaft to rise,
while those on the adjoining shaft descend and pass between the rising ones. This
operation takes place throughout the entire grate. Any cinders or clinkers caught between
the teeth are disintegrated by the ribs as the teeth approach each other, and fall into the
ash-pit below. As the teeth on one side of the shaft are elevated, and the adjoining teeth
on the adjacent shaft depressed, the points of the teeth fill up the intervening space, so no
fuel can fall through at these points. The grate-frame is supported on rollers, so as to be
easily drawn out for dumping the contents of fire-pot, or renewal or repairs. Novel and
efficient.

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152. J. Reynolds ft Son, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

WROUGHT-IRON AIR-TIGHT FURNACE FOR ANTHRACITE AND BITUMINOUS COAL.

Report. — I. Its provisions for radiation of heat, and complete combustion of fael with-
out smoke or gas, and insuring a constant supply of pure moistened air, are of a superior
order.

2. It is offered at a low price, and its plan is such as to secure economy in fuel and
unusually good results in much heat from small fire.

3. It is evidently planned for durability.

153. A. Q. Myers, New York, N. Y., U. S.

IMPROVED WATER-CLOSET AND WASH-BASIN.

Report. — Water-closet. The improvement of a solid plunger we consider one of the
highest' order, securing, as it does, both durability and security from gas, as well as estab-
lishing a perfect «• seat." The •« overflow" is here rendered perfect, and all possibility of
sewer-gas emanation is effectually precluded, while greatest certainty is given to the
** flushing" process.

Waring's improved wash-basin. The new device of stopping the basin from below, and
the simultaneous filling of both overflow- and supply-pipes with water, thereby catting off
the possible entrance of sewer-gas, are improvements of a high order, while in point of
convenience the basin is entirely unique.

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SIGNING JUDGES OF GROUP XIV.

The figures annexed to the names of the Judges indicate the reports written by them
respectively.

Christopher C. Cox, i, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20,
21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 44. 45.
46, 47, 48, 49» 50. 51. 52, S3, 54, 55, 5^, 57, 5^, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69,
70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75. 76, 78, 79. 81, 82, 84, 85, 87, 88, 89, 92, in, 133, 134, 136, 137,
138, 139, 140, 141, 142, 143, »44, 145, 147, 148, 151, 152, 153.

AZKL Ames, Jr., 43, 77, 80, 83, 86, 90, 91, 93, 94, 95, 9^, 97, 98, 99, ><», loi, 102,
103, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, no, 112, 113, 114, 115, 116, 117, 118, 119, 120, 121,
122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 130, 131, 132, 135, 146, 149, 15a -#

695

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SUPPLEMENT TO GROUP XIV.

REPORTS

JUDGES ON APPEALS.

JUDGES.

John Fritz, Bethlehem, Pa.
Edward Conley, Cincinnati, Ohio.
Charles Staples, Jr., Portland, Me.
Benj. F. Britton, New York City.
H. H. Smith, Philadelphia, Pa.

Coleman Sellers, Philadelphia, Fa.
James L. Claghorn, Philadelphia, Pa.
Henry K. Oliver, Salem, Mass.
M. Wilkins, Harrisburg, Oregon.
S. F. Baird, Washington, D. C

I. Abendroth Brothers, New York, N. Y., U. S.

STOVES AND RANGES.

Report, — The ** Fireside" pattern, 1875. Commended for convenience of arrangement,
good disposition of flues and radiating surfaces, fitness for either hard or soft coal.

The ranges are well made, easily cleaned of dust in flues, and not liable to get out of
ordir.

2. A. Hess, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

THE " MODEL BAKER."

Report. — Commended for convenience and general fitness for its intended use.

3. Florence Sewing Machine Co., Florence, Mass., U. S.

FLORENCE OIL STOVE.

Report. — It is simple in construction, easily managed, and well adapted to its intended
purpose. The heated-air circulation is good.

4. T. J. Whitehead, South Paris, Me., U. S.

COMBINED COOKING AND HOT-AIR FURNACE.

Report. — Conmiended for portability and general fitness for its intended purpose. Work-
manship good.

5. Barstow Stove Co., Providence, R. I,, U. S.

RANGES AND FURNACE.

Report. — Stoves, ranges, and furnaces well designed and conveniently arranged ; well
adapted to their intended use. Castings of superior quality.

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6. Rcid ft Cooper, Elmira, N. Y., U. S.

THE "ON time" cook STOVE.

Report, — Casting good, workmanship excellent, arrangement of the stove convenient
and effective.

7. C. O. Wcstland, Troy, N. Y., U. S.

PARLOR STOVE.

Report, — Good arrangement of base-btming stove in respect to flues and radiating sur-
faces.

8. David Boyd, New York. N. Y., U. S.

FLUE RADIATOR; FLUE AND DIAPHRAGM ATTACHMENT.

Report, — Commended for convenience of attachment for utilizing waste heat from
stoves, and fitness for purpose intended.

9. National Stove Works, New York, N. Y., U. S.

HEATERS, RANGES, AND STOVES.

Report, — Heaters, ranges, and stoves well made and well arranged to accomplish their
intended purpose. The facility afforded for cleaning the lower part of the fire by the
opening at bottom of grate is good.

10. New Haven Steam Heating Co., New Haven, Conn., U. S.

RADIATORS AND SCREENS FOR LOW-PRESSURE STEAM HEATERS.

Report, — Well adapted to give off heat from low steam ; neat and well made.

II. John Q. Birkey ft Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

GAS HEATERS.

Report, — Commended for thorough combustion of gas, freedom from unpleasant smell
while in operation, and for very good heating qualities. Workmanship good.

12. William Miller, Cincinnati, Ohio, U. S.

RANGES.

Report. — Portable wrought-iron cooking range of good design and finish, and well
arranged. Superior workmanship.

13. W. H. Harrison ft Brother, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

GRATES AND FIRE-PLACES.

Report. — The low-down grates and ornamental fire-places are of very fine workmanship,
good material, and exceedingly artistic design. The fire-place for wood or coal, with
portable grate resting on fire-dogs, is especially worthy of notice.

Fire grate with fender arranged to raise like a blind, adjustable to any height, and
serving as a summer screen, is very commendable.

The whole exhibit shows a high order of artistic merit.

697

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REPORTS ON AWARDS.

14. Geo. R. Barker, Qermantown, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

COMBINED HEATING AND VENTILATING FLUE APPARATUS AND DOUBLE REGISTER.

Report, — The arrangement of hot-air register in connection with and over the register
for the escape of the* cool air from the room fulfills the condition of effective low-down
ventilation, insuring a thorough circulation in the apartment.

It is convenient in adjustment, and admirably fitted to accomplish its intended use.

15. Weaver ft Pennock, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

MARBLE LAVATORY.

Report, — Commended for good workmanship, convenient arrangement, and beauty of
exhibit.

16. Consolidated Fruit Jar Co., New Brunswick, N. J., U. S.

FRUIT JARS.
Report, — Of excellence for ingenuity of device and thoroughness of construction and
workmanship.

17. M. W. Gardner, Troy, N. Y., U. S.

COMBINATION KNOBS FOR STOVES, RANGES, ETC.

Report, — A good exhibit of articles well adapted for the purpose intended.

18. B. P. Phillips, Providence, R. I., U. S.

FLEXIBLE GAS TUBING.

Report, — Its distinguished characteristic is a wire centre core surrounded with two or
more seamless layers of animal intestines treated with softening material ; finish of tubing
good.

19. Chalfant Manufacturing Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

MRS. pott's patent COLD-HANDLED SADIRON.
Report. — They are of good shape, and, being filled with non-conducting material, will
retain heat well. The handle is detachable, and, being of wood, will not convey heat to
the hand. They are convenient and well adapted for the purpose intended.

20. Henry Steeger, New York, N. Y., U. S.

COPPER BOILERS AND BATH TUBS.

Report, — Circulating boilers of copper, superior in workmanship and finish.
Bath tubs well made, of good shape, and of good material.

21. John P. Schaum, Lancaster, Pa., U. S.

COPPER KETTLES AND COPPER-WARE (HAND-MADE).
Report, — Commended for superior workmanship.

22. Joseph Scheider ft Co., Portland, Conn., U. S.

STAMPED AND JAPANNED WARE; HOUSEHOLD FURNISHING GOODS.
Report. — I. Japinned ware of superior workmanship, good design and finish.
2. Stamped tin -ware of superior workmanship and very good shapes.

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23. Wilson Manufacturing Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

CLOTHES RACK, STOVE-PIPE CLOTHES DRIER, AND NURSERY CUP.

Report. — ^The clothes rack for wall, and rack surrounding a stove-pipe, is ingeniously
contrived, simple, and useful.
The ** one-minute nursery cup" is well adapted for the purpose intended.

24. Mrs. S. P. BaU, Prankford, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

SELF-HEATING GAS SMOOTHING IRON.

Report. — This smoothing iron is heated by jets of gas from a pipe within its body, the
jets escaping downward toward the part of the iron in contact with the goods to be ironed,
and to the gas-jets air is freely admitted through the sides of the iron, which are formed of
wire gauze. Commended for convenience and fitness for its intended use.

25. J. W. Ruger, Buffalo, N. Y., U. S.

CRACKER, BREAD, AND CAKE MACHINERY, AND BAKERS' TOOLS.

Report. — I. Cracker-cutting machine. Commended for ingenuity and fitness for its in-
tended use.

2. Steamer and marker. Intended to give a good appearance to snaps, crackers, and
cakes. Well made and convenient.

3. Snap machine. Well designed to accomplish its intended use.

26. Alexander M. Lesley, New York, N. Y., U. S.

THE " ZERO" MILK, WINE, AND WATER COOLER.

Report. — Commended for convenience of arrangement of parts, portability, and adapta-
tion to its intended use.

27. Oem Sk>ldering-Iron Manufacturing Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

GEM SOLDERING-CASKET.

Report. — It is an exceedingly convenient set of tools for home use in repairing tin*;.
The soldering-iron is heated by gas passing through the handle from an ordinary gas-
burner, over which it is placed to be heated. Effective and convenient.

28. E. Ketcham ft Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

TIN-WARES AND KITCHEN GOODS.

Report. — Commended for great variety, good workmanship and design.

29. Walworth Manufacturing Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.

GAS MACHINES.

Report. — Commended for excellence in construction.

30. Dorian ft Anderson, Philadelphia, Pa., U. 8.

PLUMBING AND GAS-FITTING DONE IN MEMORIAL HALL.

Report. — Conunended for good workmanship.

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31. New York Lamp Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

CAR AND STEAMSHIP LAMPS.

Report. — The method of raising (he globe and chimney on guides for the purpose of
lighting and cleaning recommends it for use on cars and steamships. Commended for good
design and workmanship.

32. J. Bradley ft Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

THE NATIONAL ODORLESS EXCAVATING APPARATUS.

Report, — Commended for convenience and adaptation to its intended use.

33. Jos. L. Travis, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

NE PLUS ULTRA WATER-CLOSETS.

Report. — Commended for general arrangement of water-closet, permitting easy adjust-
ment of parts, simplicity and efficiency of the valve, general fitness for use intended, and
good workmanship.

34. The Allegretti Refrigerator Co., New York, N. Y., U. S.

REFRIGERATORS.

Report. — Commended for utility and fitness, as illustrated in its continued use in the
Government Building.

35. Carl Vignal, New York, N. Y., U. S.

ICE-CREAM REFRIGERATORS.

Report. — Commended for convenience of arrangement and utility in keeping ice-cream
in stock.

36. John Qravenstine, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S.

REFRIGERATOR.

Report. — The arrangement of the " circulating box," directing the currents of air, keeps
up a drculation of air within the closet. Commended for convenience of arrangement and
fitness for its intended use.

37. Geo. A. Banta, New York, N. Y., U. S.

LARGE REFRIGERATOR IN GOVERNMENT BUILDING.

Report. — Commended for successful operation of this refrigeiator in keeping fish in a
perfect condition during the summer. The arrangement of drawers for removing sp>ecial
deposits from the case is very good. Well designed to accomplish its intended purpose.

38. Colin PuUinger, Selsy, near Chichester, England.

SIFTERS, CASK STANDS, AND MOUSE TRAPS.

Report. — Commended for a curious collection of very ingenious contrivances covering a
wide range of objects, showing very considerable inventive skill and good workmanship.

39. Doulton ft Co., Lambeth Pottery, London, S. E., England.

PLUMBAGO CRUCIBLES.

Report. — Commended for quality, finish, and variety of product adapted to the demands
of the trade using them.

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40. Steel ft Garland, Whamcliffe Works, Sheffield, England.

STEEL GRATES AND FENDERS WITH ENCAUSTIC TILES.

Report, — The exhibit of this house shows superior workmanship and design. Their
projecting grate is well calculated to give a good result in heating.

41. Joflo Thome Alcobia, Lisbon, Portugal.

KITCHEN AND PANTRY UTENSILS AND PORTABLE BATH TUBS.

Report. — This is a creditable exhibit of tin-ware, painted and decorated. Shapes good ;
workmanship excellent.

42. Costa Baste ft Co., Foundry of Bolh9o, Oporto, Portugal.

STOVE, IRON POTS AND KETTLES.

Report. — I. Stove. Commended for fair castings and well-arranged system of doors
above grate with good fastenings.
2. Cast-iron hollow ware. Good forms, smooth castings, and well tinned.

43- W. J. Sommerschuh, Prague, Austria.

EARTHENWARE STOVE AND SLABS.

Report — The earthenware stove is commended for good workmanship and design.

SIGNING JUDGES OF SUPPLEMENT TO GROUP XIV.

The figures annexed to the names of the Judges indicate the reports written by them
respectively.

Coleman Sellers, i, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22,
23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, z%, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43.
Henry H. Smith, 16.
Charles Staples, Jr., 29.

701

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Full text of "... International exhibition, 1876. [Reports]"

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