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INTERNATIONAL
LIBRARY OF TECHNOLOGY

A SERIES OF TEXTBOOKS FOR PERSONS ENGAGED IN THE ENGINEERING

PROFESSIONS AND TRADES OR FOR THOSE WHO DESIRE

INFORMATION CONCERNING THEM. FULLY ILLUSTRATED

AND CONTAINING NUMEROUS PRACTICAL

EXAMPLES AND THEIR SOLUTIONS

WOOLEN AIS^; jWdRSTEQ) CAfjl-LOOMS

WOOLEN AND WOF^!f ED .-FANCY LOOMS

WOOLEN AND WOl^Stfel^llOOM FIXING

PlMk/L'bOMSV

FIXING LOOMS

LOOM ATTACHMENTS

AUTOMATIC LOOMS

DOBBIES

LENO ATTACHMENTS

BOX MOTIONS

JACQUARDS

SCRANTON:
INTERNATIONAL TEXTBOOK COMPANY

iHt Ni-.V' YORK
PUBLIC LIBRARY

6672^ I

AJTOR. Lf N(..X AND
TILO N FCNOATiOWi.

Coprriflrht. 1906, by IifTBRNATioii al Textbook Compakt.

Entered at Stationeri' Hall. London.

Woolen and Wonted Cam-Looms: Coinnifirht, 1906, by Intbrnational Tbztbook

Company. Entered at Stationeri' Hall. London.
Woolen and Worsted Fancy Looms: Copyright, 1905. by Intbrnational Textbook

Company. Entered at Stationers' Hall. London.
Woolen and Worsted Loom Pixinff: Copyrisrht. 1905. by International Textbook

Company. Entered at Stationers' Hall. London.
Plain Looms: Copyrisrht. 1900, by Christopher Parkinson Brooks. Copyright.

1908. by International Textbook Company. Entered at Stationers' Hall.

London. .,.••.

• ••^•J'\*» • • • ••*•
Pixinff Looms: Copyi;||(Hr59)0,2>yjCHRV^of>HBR«6!«RKiN8ON Brooks. Copyright.

1903, by iNTBRNAVibftA*! 'l^BxtBooir CoBAnR^.* Entered at Stationers' Hall,

London. •**. J J.***! l**2

Loom Attachments: Copyrifi:lit,^90|^l2y2c2Hjiis*'K>PHBR Parkinson Brooks. Copy-

rifirbt. 1908. by Intbriv^tjoit^l *Tb^jb*o^i| *Company. Entered at Stationers'

Hall, London. V I.J ;; ly. y. : \

Antomatic Looms: Copyri8rh{,4w6,V)y ^RMm^ofSHSR Parkinson Brooks. Copy-
right, 1908. by International Textbook Company. Entered at Stationers'

ri'all. London.
Dobbles: Copyright, 1900, by Christopher Parkinson Brooks. Copyright. 1905,

by International Textbook Company. Entered at Stationers' Hall. London.
Leno Attachments: Copyright, 1900. by Christopher Parkinson Brooks. Copy-

rigrht, 1905. by International Textbook Company. Entered at Stationers'

Hall, London.
Box Motions: Copyrisrht. 1901, by Christopher Parkinson Brooks. Copyriirht,

1905, by International Textbook Company. Entered at Stationers' Hall.

London.
Jacquards, Part 1: Copyright. 1901, by Christopher Parkinson Brooks. Copy-

rigrht, 1905, by International Textbook Company. Entered at Stationers'

Hall, London.
Jacqnards. Parts 2 and 8: Copyrigrht. 1905, by Intbrnatipnal Textbook Company.

Entered at Stationers' Hall, London.

Printed in the United States.

201'J1

PREFACE

The International Library of Technology is the outgrowth
of a large and increasing demand that has arisen for the
Reference Libraries of the International Correspondence
Schools on the part of those who are not students of the
Schools. As the volumes composing this Library are all
printed from the same plates used, i/i,pri?:it»iig the Reference
Libraries above mentiQp^ed, ^ fcV^.IVpcds. are necessary
regarding the scope and purjK>:5e;<7f ti^-e -instruction imparted
to the students of — and ihe, class, jodr* students taught by —
these Schools, in order :to^ affoi d/a p1»§gf understanding of
their salient and unique-featureb/ '^-- *- -

The only requirement for admission to any of the courses
offered by the International Correspondence Schools, is that
the applicant shall be able to read the English language and
to write it sufficiently well to make his written answers to
the questions asked him intelligible. Each course is com-
plete in itself, and no textbooks are required other than
those prepared by the Schools for the particular course
selected. The students themselves are from every class,
trade, and profession and from every country; they are,
almost without exception, busily engaged in some vocation,
and can spare but littl«; time for study, and that usually
outside of their regular working hours. The information
desired is such as can be immediately applied in practice, so
that the student may be enabled to exchange his present
vocation for a more ^.ongenialone, or to rise to a higher level
in the one he now pursues. Furthermore, he wishes to
obtain a good working knowledge of the subjects treated in
the shortest time and in the most direct manner possible.

iii

iv PREFACE

In meeting these requirements, we have produced a set of
books that in many respects, and particularly in the general
plan followed, ,are absolutely unique. In the majority of
subjects treated the knowledge of mathematics required is
limited to the simplest principles of arithmetic and mensu-
ration, and in no case is any greater knowledge of mathe-
matics needed than the simplest elementary principles of
algebra, geometry, and trigonometry, with a thorough,
practical acquaintance with the use of the logarithmic table.
To effect this result, derivations of rules and formulas are
omitted, but thorough and complete instructions are given
regarding how, when, and under what circumstances any
particular rule, formula, or process should be applied ; and
whenever possible one or more examples, such as would be

likely to arise in actual practice — together with their solu-
• ••• »•••••••• • •

tions — are giveiV4:o5tlu?tJ^td anfl esbfein its application.

In preparing these te*!xtb^oks,'lV Itas been our constant
endeavor to view the ifia^tjrf JrJmJ the student's standpoint,
and to try and anticfpAte' ^iier^tl^ipg that would cause him
trouble. The utntt)sir:i;jiSr&:l¥5Te fbeen taken to avoid and
correct any and all ambiguous expressions — both those due
to faulty rhetoric and those due to insufficiency of statement
or explanation. As the best way to make a statement,
explanation, or description clear is to give a picture or a
diagram in connection with it, illustrations have been used
almost without limit. The illustrations have in all cases
been adapted to the requirements of the text, and projec-
tions and sections or outline, partially shaded, or full-shaded
perspectives have been used, according to which will best
produce the desired results. Half-tones have been used
rather sparingly, except in those cases where the general
effect is desired rather than the actual details.

It is obvious that books prepared along the lines men-
tioned must not only be clear and concise beyond anything
heretofore attempted, but they must also possess unequaled
value for reference purposes. They not only give the maxi-
mum of information in a minimum space, but this infor-
mation is so ingenioiislv arranged and correlated, and the

PREFACE V

indexes are so full and complete, that it can at once be
made available to the reader. The numerous examples and
explanatory remarks, together with the absence of long
demonstrations and abstruse mathematical calculations, are
of great assistance in helping one to select the proper for-
mula, method, or process and in teaching him how and
when it should be used.

This volume deals with looms and the process of weaving.
After consideration is given to the elementary loom and the
functions of its parts, due attention is paid to the erection of
looms, the insertion of the warp, the proper adjustment of
the parts, and the location of faults. Then follow descrip-
tions of auxiliary parts used in looms, such as cams and
selvage motions. Automatic looms are then taken up, illus-
trated by means of one of the leading types; then the
important subjects of dobbies and box motions, with their
application to special looms, are given careful consideration.
Proceeding to more complicated devices, those attachments
are described that are used in leno weaving, and, finally, the
jacquard machine is considered. Beginning with the con-
struction of the single-lift jacquard, and proceeding to the
double-lift and the double-lift double-cylinder jacquard, their
motions and adjustments are successively described. The
succeeding chapters are devoted to the various styles of har-
nesses and the processes of harness tying. Finally, detailed
descriptions are given of card cutting, lacing, and repeating.

The method of numbering the pages, cuts, articles, etc. is
such that each subject or part, when the subject is divided
into two or more parts, is complete in itself; hence, in order
to make the index intelligible, it was necessary to give each
subject or part a number. This number is placed at the top
of each page, on the headline, opposite the page number;
and to distinguish it from the page number it is preceded by
the printer's section mark (§). Consequently, a reference
such as § 16, page 26, will be readily found by looking along
the inside edges of the headlines until § 16 is found, and
then through § 16 until page 26 is found.

International Textbook Company

CONTENTS

WooLBN AND WoRSTBD Cam-Looms Section Page

Construction of Cam-Looms 51 4

Principal Motions of Weaving 51 8

Auxiliary Motions of Weaving 51 31

Temples 51 44

Production 51 48

WOOLBN AND WORSTED FANCY LoOMS

The Knowles Fancy Loom 52 3

Knowles Head-Motion 52 3

Hamess-Evener Motion 52 15

Building Harness Chains 52 17

Box Motion 52 21

Multiplier 52 26

Timing the Box Motion 52 29

Leveling the Boxes 52 30

Building Box Chains 52 31

Picking Mechanisms 52 36

Take-Up Mechanisms 52 40

Brake Motions 52 48

Selvage Motions 52 51

Crompton Fancy Looms 53 1

Driving 53 3

. Shedding Mechanism 53 4

Box Motion 53 14

Pick Disconnecting Device 53 28

Filling Stop-Motion 53 32

Protector Motion 53 33

Take-Up Motion 53 36

Let-Off Motion 53 40

Selvage Motion 53 42

iii

IV CONTENTS

Woolen and Worsted Loom Fixing Section Page

Erecting and Starting Looms 55 4

Loom Mechanisms and Their Defects . . 55 8

Box Motion 55 13

Picking Motion 55 15

Filling Stop-Motion 55 21

Take-Up Motion 55 22

Let-Off Motion 55 22

General Loom Fixing 55 23

Plain Looms

Parts of a Plain Loom 56 3

Principal Motions of a Loom 56 8

Auxiliary Motions of a Loom 56 30

Calculations 56 43

Fixing Looms

Definitions 57 1

Erecting and Starting Looms 57 2

Keeping the Loom in Good Running Con-
dition 57 18

Defects Caused Outside of Weave Room . 57 28

The Loom Fixer 57 30

Loom Attachments

Undercams for Other Than Two-Harness

Work 58 1

Construction of Different Cams 58 3

Attachments for Three-, Four-, Five-, and

Six-Harness Undercam Looms .... 58 13

Selvage Motions 58 20

Shedding Mechanism of a Loom .... 58 24

Side Cams 58 26

Continuous Take-Ups 58 28

Automatic Loc^s

The Northrop 59 1

Filling-Changing Motions 59 9

Additional Attachments on Automatic

Loon^s 59 19

CONTENTS ▼

Automatic Looms — Co7iiintud Section Page

Fixing 69 22

Cloth Defects 59 26

Other Types of Automatic Looms .... 69 28

DOBBIBS

Varieties of Sheds 60 2

Single-Cylinder Dobby 60 6

Double-Cylinder Dobby 60 18

Building Harness Chains for Dobbies . . 60 26

Fixing 60 27

Timing and Setting the Single-Cylinder

Dobby 60 .27

Timing and Setting the Double-Cylinder

Dobby 60 32

Power and Speed 60 33

Lend Attachments

Leno Weaving on Single-Lift, or Close-
Shed, Dobbies 61 3

Top Doups 61 20

Leno Weaving on Double-Lift, or Open-
Shed, Dobbies 61 26

Fixing 61 36

Difference Between American and Euro-
pean Methods 61 37

Box Motions

Crompton 4x1 Box Motion 62 2

Box-Chain Mechanism 62 13

Method of Building Box Chains 62 19

Fixing of Box Looms 62 24

Power and Speed 62 29

Jacquards

Jacquard Construction 63 1

Single-Lift Jacquards 63 4

Double-Lift Jacquards 63 29

Fixing and Setting Jacquards 63 38

Harness Tying 64 1

vi CONTENTS

Jacquards — Conitnued Section Page

Styles of Harness Ties 64 7

Building the Harnesses 64 12

Methods of Passing Harness Lines

Through Comber Board 64 24

Casting Out 64 33

Card Cutting, Lacing, and Repeating . . 65 1

Card Cutting 65 4

Methods of Reading Designs 65 13

Method of Cutting a Set of Cards .... 65 17

Lacing 65 21

Repeating 65 35

INDEX

Beam head. Ratchet
*' Loom

Beatlnff up .

** '* operation .
Bevel of the race plate
Binder

NoTB.— An items In this index refer first to the section and then to the patre of the sec-
tion. Tbns. "Binder 51 SI" means that binder will be found on paffe 81 of section 51.

A Sec. Page

Action of cams 58 17

Adjusting and tettiuff the filling

•top-motion 51 89

the loff strap 56 18

Adjnstment, Hopper 50 25

Alternate-pick loom 52 87

American and European methods.

Difference between 61 87

Anffolar-shed motion 68 28

Apron. The 57 8

Arrangement of harness rolls ... 58 17

AttachiniT the picker 62 28

Attachments for three-, four-, five-,
and six-harness

undercam looms . 58 18

*' Leno 61 1

•• Loom 58 1

" on automatic looms 59 19

Automatic lacer 65 28

" head 65 26

laciniT 65 28

" let-off motion 56 81

looms 59 1

'* Attachments on 59 19

" Types of .... 59 28

repeating machine . . 65 85 .

" stop-motions 56 8

Auxiliary cam-shaft 58 18

motions 51 8

" " of a loom ... 56 80

" " weavinar ... 51 81

" straps and binder settinirs
Binders and shuttles. Reffulatioff

the

Setting

Black oil

Board. Reading

•* The comber

Bobbin splitting

Bobbins

Bottom doup

" " harness frame . . .

*• doups

Box-chain mechanism

*' staff, Care of

" chains. Buildinir

Method of buildinsr . .
" end. Connection of picker

stick at

" jumping

" looms

Fixinsrof

•* " Power and speed of . .
" motion

Back and front shafts 62 9

Ball and shoe picking motion . . 51 23

" Pick 51 28

BaUs. Pick . 51 4

Banffinffoff '. . 55 28

" of the loom 57 21

Bar. Heddle 59 3

Bartlett let-off motion 56 81

as a whole. Operation

of the

CromptoD 4X1 ...

Still

Timinsr the

motions

Sec.

Page

Vll

VIU

INDEX

Box motions. Timinflr and tettioff

" Shuttle

** Sprint:

Boxes. Driving

Leveling the

" Raisins: and lowerins: the .

Shuttle

Timing: the

Brake, Loom

motion

Breaking picker sticks

Broken crow weave

Buildins: box chains

harness chains

•• •• •• for dob-

bies . .

the harnesses

Burr of the temple

Buttoninff and chafing: behind the
reed

Calculating the speed of looms . .
Calculations relating: to looms . .
Cam. Construction of a

DweUofthe

looms. Construction of . . .
Woolen and worsted

motion

Picking:

selva8:e motions ......

shaft. AuxiNary

shafts. Size of i:ears for . .

Shape of the

Throw of a

Cams. Action of

Construction of

Pive-hamess satin .

for «i twill

•• *T twill

Ponr*hame8S . . .

in 8:eneral

Picking:

Selvag:e motions of
Setting: harness . .

picking: . . .
" tape 8elvag:e .

Shedding: by

Side

Timing: the harness .

Card cradles

*' cutting:

Sec. Paze Sec. Paze

. 5S 27 Card cutting:, lacingr, and repeating: 65 1

66 21 " gniides 65 5

65 18 stamping: 65 4

58 22 Cards. Cutting: a set of 65 17

62 80 " Lacing: 65 21

62 26 " Punching: 65 9

62 4 •• The 68 8

51 80 Care of chain stuff 56 18

62 24 " " filling: stop-motion .... 55 21

66 89 ** *• let-off motion 55 22

62 48 " " pattern chain 55 18

56 27 •• •• take-up motion ....'.. 55 22

68 8 Carrier chain 65 29

62 81 Casting: out 64 83

62 19 Catching:. Shuttles 62 27

62 17 Center stop-motion 51 87

Centered tie 64 29

60 26 Chafing: and buttoning: behind the

64 12 reed 55 82

51 46 Chain. Carrier 65 29

** cylinder drive 52 11

56 82 " cylinders. Motions for ... 52 18

draft 52 17

'* Harness 61 18

48 •' stuff. Care of 55 18

48 " The harness 61 23

11 61 33

19 Chains and pinion g:ears 52 47

4 " Building: box 52 31

1 '* " harness 52 17

51 " for dobbies. Building: har-

6 ness 60 25

51 " Method of building: box . . 62 19

13 Classes of jacquards 63 2

15 Cleaning: the looms 55 35

10 Close shed 52 2

15 *' *• 60 3

17 " *• dobbies, Leno weaving:

14 on 61 3

3 Cloth defects 59 26

11 " Ends floating: on face of . . 63 41

8 " Fell of the 61 3

4 " Poreig:n matter in the .... 57 28

4 ** roll 51 2

1 " Thick and thin places in the 55 30

17 • •• Thin places in the 57 25

20 " Weaving: plain 61 12

20 •• " *' 61 SO

4 Clutch g:ear. Setting: the 60 32

9 Comber board. Harness lines tied
24 above the .... 64 20

8 " " Harness lines tied

26 below the .... 64 22

21 " " Passing: harness
24 lines throug:h the 64 24

4 " *• The 64 5

66
66

51
61
51
52
56
62
58
58
56
56
58
51
58
58
58
58
68
58
56
58
51
57
57
58
56
58
51
63
65

INDEX

Sec.

Combination ties 64

Compound sbed 60

" 63

Conditional take-up motion .... 52
Connection between liftinsr ro'd and

lever .... 62
*• fttop-motion

and hopper 59
of picker stick at box

end 63

Consideration of first book .... 64
Construction. Retails of jacquard 63

" Jacquard 63

of a cam 56

** of automatic lacer 65

" of automatic lacer

bead ....... 65

of cam-looms ... 51

of cams 51

** of Crompton box

motion 62

of different cams . . 58
" of double - cylinder

dobby 60

" of piano machine

head 65

'* of plain looms. Prin-
ciple of 56

of sinsrle-cylinder

dobby 60

of the multiplier mo-
tion 62

of the sinsrle-lift

jacquard 63

of the still box mo-
tion 62

Continuous take-ups 58

Cord. The neck 63

Cotton-harness stop-motion ... 59

Couplinfir, The 63

Couplinfirs.'The 64

Tyins: harness lines to 64

Cradles. Card 63

Crank-shaft. Driving dobby .... 60
Settlna: the dobby . . 60

Crompton box motion 62

fancy loom 53

4X1 box motion .... 62

Cross or London tie 64

Crossinsr 61

Crownins: hooks 63

Cnttinsr a set of cards 65

Card 65

filUnsr 55

thefillinsr 57

Cylinder drive 60

Pa£e
81
4

38
43

Cylinder from needle board. Mov-

inif ,

Method of ttiminir the . .

motions .

Self-actinff . .
SettiniT and timins: the . .

the

Cylinders, Motion for chain

Sec. Page

. 52

14
14
14
19
43
29
13

Da8:8rer. The

Defects caused outside of weave

room

" Cloth

*' Loom mechanisms and

their

Shedding mechanism . .

Definition of warp line

Definitions of parts of looms . . .

Dent of a reed

Depressor and lifter. Drivingr . . .

mechanism

Desism of looms. One-hand ....

Desisms. Methods of readingr . . .

Details of jacquard construction

Device. Hamess-levelinsr

" Pick-disconnecting: ....

Difference between American and

European methods

Disadvantage of single-lift jac-

quard

Distinction between top and bot-

Dobbies

Building harness chains

for

Double-index and single-

index

Double-lift and sinifle-lift

Fixina:

Leno weavinsr on double-

lift .

sinsfle-

lift .

Method of driving: ....

Operation of parts of . .

Positive and non-positive

Power and speed of . . .

Rifirht-hand and left-hand

Types of

Dobby, Construction of double-cyl-

inder . .

" sinsrle-cyl-

inder . .

crank-shaft. Drivinir . . .

SettiuiTthe. .

INDEX

Sec.

Dobby, Double-cylinder 60

Operation of the 60

" Sinffle-cylinder 60

" TiminiT and settlnff the

double-cylinder . .
*' TiminiT and setting the

sinsrle-cylinder 60

Double-cylinder dobby 60

'* cylinder dobby. Tim ins:

and settinff the 60

*' index and ftinsrle-indez dob-

biea eo

Uft and sinsrle-lift dobbies . 60
*' " double-cylinder jac-

quards 6&

*' " jacquards 68

"or open-shed dobbies . 61
" " sinsrle- cylinder jac-
quards 6S

Doup and srround ends 61

" Bottom 61

*• end 61

*' harness 61

Doupinir' 61

Doups. Bottom 61

Distinction between top

and bottom 61

Riffht- and left-hand . ... 61

Top 61

Draft, Chain 62

" DrawiniT-in ,61

•• Pattern-chain 62

Drawinar-in 61

" draft 61

•• '* the ends 61

Drive, Chahi-cylinder ........ 52

'* Pawl-and-ratchet 60

Drives. Cylinder 60

DriviniT boxes 5S

dobbies. Method of ... . 60

dobby crank- shaft .... 60

fancy looms 53

lifter and depressor .... 53

" the head-motion 52

Drop-box motion 52

" " motions 62

'* wires 59

Dwell of the cam 51

5arly. Picking: 57

Baser 61

Eccentricity of lay 66

Eflfect of position of warp line ... 57

End. Doup 61

•• Whip 61

Pare
18
18
5

60 82

27
18

15
14

86
29
25

85
2

20
2
4
2
8

9
14
23
7
2
2

Sec. Part

Ends . .• 51 2

" Drawhiifinthe 61 6

" floatinir on face of cloth ... 68 41

" Reedinsr the 61 8

Equally sreared looms 52 36

ErectiniT and startinsr looms ... 55 4

"... 67 2

European and Americaxi methods

of drawinir in ends 61 87

Evolution of the loom 66 1

Pace of cloth. Ends floating on . . 68 41

Pancy head-motion, Knowles ... 62 3

" loom, Crompton 68 1

" " Knowles 52 3

" looms. Woolen and worsted 62 1

Past motion for chain cylinders . . 62 13

" reeds 66 26

PasteniniT harness lines 64 17

Peed-mechanism of automatic

lacer 66 25

PeU of the cloth 51 3

Pilling 61 2

66 2

" chan^riniT motions 69 9

Settinar

the . . 69 24

" CuttlniT 55 27

the 67 27

" klnkinff 65 28

" Kinks in the 67 26

" Knocking ofT 65 29

" 57 25

" Pick of 66 22

skippiniT 63 38

stop-motion 51 8

51 37

53 82

56 37

P7 16

59 9

•' " " and hopper . . 59 11.

Care of .... 55 2

Settinsr the . . 58 33

Timinsrthe. . 53 83

Pirst hook. Consideration of .... 64 24

Pive-hamess satin cams 68 11

" weaves .... 68 11

Pixer. The loom 55 2

57 30

Pixinsr and setting jacquards ... 63 88

dobbies 60 27

" looms 57 1

Northrop looms 69 22

" of box looms 62 24

INDEX

Sec. Page

Plzinff the looms 61 S5

Plannel, Friction 57 16

Ploatinsr on face of cloth. Ends . . 6S 41

Follower levers 62 7

Poreisn matter in the cloth .... 67 28

Poor-harness cams 58 4

Frame, Bottom doap harness ... 61 4

Friction flannel 67 16

let-off motion 56 31

pulleys 66 42

Frosr. The 56 27

Front and back shafts. Operation of 62 9

Gear, Setthiff the clutch 60 82

" Star 62 8

Gearinff for auxiliary cam-shafts . 68 14

Gears for cam-shafts. Size of ... 68 15

*' Setting the reverse 52 13

Ginsrham looms 62 1

Goods. Shaded 65 81

Griff of a jacqnard 68 10

•• Timinsr the 63 42

Griffs. The 63 29

Ground and doup ends 61 2

Guard. Shuttle 56 42

Guides. Card 65 6

Hand. Lacinir by

Harness cams. Different settings

66 21

SettinjT

•*

•* *•

Timing the. . . .

••

chain

••

" The

" "

••

chains, Buildinsr

••

for dobbies.

Buildinsr. . . .

•'

Doup

evener motion

frame. Bottom doup. . .

*•

Jacquard

•*

levelicK device

••

lines

throusrh the comber

board. Passinsr .

••

tied above the

comber board .

••

" tied below the

comber board .

••

" to couplings. Tyinsr

••

" to neck cords.

Tylnjr

Sec,

Harness of a jacquard 64

roUs 58

" skips 66

Standard 61

Hes, Styles of 64

tyinar 64

Harnesses 61

Buildinff the 64

Lift of the 60

" Operation of 61

Vamishinar 64

Head, Construction of automatic

lacer 66

" Construction of piano ma-
chine 66

" motion, Drivinsr the .... 62

** Knowles 62

" Mechanism for raisins: and
lowerinsr the, of piano

machine 66

Ratchet beam 61

Heavy-pattern fancy woolen and

worsted loom 53

Heddle 51

•• bar 69

Heel of the shuttle 57

Hook, Consideration of first ... 64

Hooks and needles 68

Crowniuff 68

missinsr 68

Hopper 69

adjustment 69

" Connection between stop-
motion and 69

Independent cylinder motions ... 63

Intermittent take-up motion .... 66

Invention of the jacquard 63

Jacquard construction . 63

Details of . 63
" Disadvantasre of sinsrle-

lift 63

Double-lift single cylin-
der 63

Griff of a 63

harness 63

of a 64

Invention of the 63

machines. Sizes of ... 63

Sinsrle-lift 63

Jacquards 63

.... J 64

Page
4

17
8
3
7
1
2
8

SO
9

7
88

2
2
8

M
SO
41
40
16
25

15
85
2

29
10
13

4
2
46

4
1
1

Xll

INDEX

See, Page

Jacqaards 66 1

Double-lift 63 29

" " double-
cyiinder. 63 86
Pixins: and settinsr ... 63 88
" Methods of supportins: 64 3

Sinsrle-lift 63 4

Speed of 68 85

Jumper, Settinsr the ... ^ .... 61 36

The 61 26

Jumpinsr. Box 55 14

Keepinsr the loom in ifood nmoinir

condition . < 57 18

Kinkinsr. Pilliufi: 55 28

Kinks in the filling 57 26

Knives. Settins: the 60 28

Knocking off filling 55 29

• 57 25

Knots in the warp yarn. Largre . . 57 29

Knowles fancy bead-motion ... 52 3

" loom 52 3

head-motion 52 3

" sheddinsr mechanism . . 52 3

Lacer. Automatic 65 23

" head. Construction of auto-
matic 65 26

LaciniT. Automatic 65 28

by hand 65 21

card cuttins:, and repeating 65 1

cards 65 21

" mechanism 65 SI

Larsre knots in the warp yam ... 57 29

Late. Pickins: 57 9

Lay 51 8

" of the loom 66 22

*' over or repeatinir tie 64 27

** swords 51 11

Lease rods 56 42

" 57 6

Left- and risrht-hand doups .... 61 5

" hand and rigrht-hand dobbies 60 18

** loom 67 1

" shuttle 67 1

Leno attachments 61 1

" weaving: on double-lift dob-
bies 61 25

** sinarle-lift dob-
bies 61 3

Let-off and take-up motions ... 57 17

" " motion 51 3

" " " 51 31

53 40

•• •• " Care of 66 22

Sec. Page

Let-off motion. Priction ..... 66 II

" " " Morton's 66 33

** *' motions 66 8

" " " 66 80

Leveling: the boxes 62 80

62 25

Lever and lifting: rod. Connection

between the 62 7

" Lifting: 62 3

Levers. Follower 52 7

Lift of the harnesses 60 30

Lifter and depressor. Driving: ... 53 8

mechanism 53 6

Lifting: lever 62 3

rod and lever. Connection

between the 62 7

Line. Warp 57 7

Lines. Harness 64 16

Lock-knife 62 6

" 53, 25

London or cross-tie 64 9

Loom. Alternate-pick 52 37

attachments 58 1

Auxiliary motions of a . . 56 30

Bang:ing: off of the 57 21

beam 51 2

•• 56 2

brake 56 39

Crompton 53 1

Evolution of the 56 1

"■ fixer. The 55 2

67 30

fixing:. General 55 23

** Woolen and worsted 65 1

in g:ood condition, Keeping: 57 18

Knowles fancy 52 3

Lay of the 66 22

*' Left-hand 57 1

mechanisms and their de-
fects 55 8

Operation of the 56 2

•* Pick-and-pick 52 3

•* Plain 56 3

Power necessary to drive a 56 43

Principal motions of a ... 56 8

Production of a 51 48

" pulleys 66 42

" Rig:ht-hand 57 1

settings 57 4

Shedding: mechanism of a 58 24

temples 56 40

" The 55 1

'* Northrop 59 1

" Worsted and woolen, fixing: 55 1

Looms r)l 1

" Attachments forundercam 58 13

INDEX

Xlll

Sec. Paze

Looms Attachments on automatic 59 19

Antomatlc 59 1

69 28

Box 62 1

Calculatinff the speed of . . 56 43

Calculations relating to . . 66 43

Cleaninsr the 55 35

Definitions of parts of . . 57 1

DrlviniT fancy 53 8

Brectinff and starting ... 65 4

... 57 2

Equally ireared 52 36

Pixinsr 57 1

Northrop 59 22

*• of box 62 24

*• the -.61 36

Ginarham 62 1

Oilinfirthe 66 35

One-hand desitni of .... 59 22

Plain 56 1

Power and speed of box . . 62 29

Settinsr the plain 56 6

- 1 J ' I ■ -niyiod by .... 56 43

Un^qn^lly Scared 52 36

Weiifht and power of

Northrop 59 27

Woolen and worsted fancy 62 1

53 1

Loose reeds 56 28

Lowerinsr and raisins: the boxes . - 62 4
and raisins: the head of

piano machine .... 65 7

Los: strap. AdjustinsT the 56 18

Settinsr the 57 10

Machine. Automatic repeatins: . . 65 85

head. Piano 66 4

Piano 65 4

Machines. Sizes of jacquard ... 63 46

Marks. Reed 55 31

Matter in the cloth. Poreisrn . ... 57 28

llattelrH of [mportaoce, Minor . . 55 35

Mechanism. Box-chain 62 18

Depressor 53 5

for moving: cylinder

from needle board 63 15

for raisins: the head . 65 7

Knowles sheddins: . . 62 8 .

Lacer 66 31

Lifter 53 5

of a loom. Sheddins: . 58 24

Sheddins: 51 8

53 4

Mechanisms, Defects of sheddins:

Pickins:

Take-up

Method of drivins: dobbies ....

Mispicks

Missins: hooks

Morton's let-off motion

Motion. Ans:ular-shed

Ball and shoe pickins: . .

Box

Mechanisms and their defects.
Loom

Brake

Care of take-up ....
Conditional take-iip .
Crompton 4X1 box . .
Priction let-off ....
Hameas-evener . . .
Intermittent take-up .
Let-off

Morton's let-off .
Multiplier . . . .

Object of the parallel . . .
Operation of tape selvas:e
Parallel

Picking

Plain selvas:e
Protector . .

Ratchet rins: take-up

Relief

Repeat

Reverse

Rise-and-fall . . . .

Rotary-box

Self-actins: cylinder .
Selvasre

Scttins: the fillintr-chansins:
" protector . . .

*' repeat .

Skip

Slidins: pick . . . .

Still box

Take-up

Sec.
56
52
52
60
57
68
56
63
51
52
53
55
52
55
52
62
56
52
66
61
51
58
66
52
62
56
58
66
66
51
55
58
51
51
63
62
53
60
52
53
68
52
63
51
51
58
59
51
58
57
60
65
52
62
51
61

Pagt

8
86
40
11
27
40
38
28
23
21
14
13
48
22
43

2
81
15
85

8
81
40
88
26
15
20
28

6
19
23
15
20

8
40
88
40
26
22
12
11
26
21
19

8
43
42
24
42
36
15
33
10
37
22

3
84

XIV

INDEX

Motion, Take-up .

Underplck

Universal selvaffe .
Worm tak«-np . . .
Motions. Automatic let-off.

Aiudllary

BarUett let-off . .

Box

Cam-selvaffe . .. .

See.

, 68
. 66

Tape selyaffe .......

Timinff and setting the
sheddlns ....

*• the box

•* picking ....

" ** selyase ....

Undercam

Cylinder.
Drop-box

equally ^reared, Pickins:
for chain cylinders . . .
PilliniT-chanfirinfir ....
Independent cylinder . .
Let-off

'* " and take-up . . .

of a loom. Auxiliary . .

Principal . .

" weaviniT. Auxiliary .

Principal .

RevolviniT-box

Selvage

Settinsr the take-up . . .

Side-cam sheddinsr . . .

Take-up

Timinsr and settinsr box
MoviufiT cylinder from needle

board

Multiplier

motion

Neck cord. The 63

" cords, Tyinsr harness lines to 64
Needle board. Moving cylinder

from '. 63

Needles and hooks 63

The 63

Non-positive action of cams ... 68
" " and positive dobbies 60

Pla^ge
86
86

12
29
26
42
10
14
16
68
44
81

8
81

1
61
20
14
21

1
86
18

9
16

3
30
17
80

8
31

1
61
17
10

3
27

16
26
36
26
15

15
30
11
17
14

See. Page

Northrop loom. The 69 1

looms, Pixinff 69 22

Weisrht of and
power required

by 69 27

Norwich or strai&rht tie 64 7

Object of the parallel motion ... 66 20

Oil. Black 66 36

Oilins: the looms 65 35

One-hand desism of looms 69 22

Open shed 62 2

" dobbies, Leno weaving

on 61 25

sheddinsr 60 2

Operation. Beatinff-up 61 8

of Crompton box mo-
tion 62 2

** front and back

shafts 62 9

" " harnesses 61 9

" " punchinsr cards . . 65 9
" the box motion as a

whole 62 14

" thedobby 60 13

" the loom 66 2

"the multiplier mo-
tion 62 17

"the sinsrle-lift jac-

quard 63 4

" the still box motion 62 ?3

Operations of parts of dobbies . . 60 23

" tape selvasre motion 58 23

Parallel motion 66 6

66 19

Parts of a plain loom 56 3

" dobbies. Operation of . . 60 23

" " looms. Definitions of . . 57 1
Passing harness lines throusrh

the comber board 64 24

Pattern chain, Care of 55 13

" draft 62 17

Pawl-and-ratchet drive 60 16

Piano machine 65 4

head 65 4

Lowering: and

raisins: head of . 65 7

Pick-and-pick loom 62 3

" ball 51 23

" balls 51 4

" disconnectinfi: device 53 28

" offillins: 56 22

" motion, Slidins: 62 87

INDEX

Sec.

Pick, Power of the 67

Picker. Attachinsr the 62

stick at box end. Connec-
tion of 62

sticks 66

" ** breakinir 66

•• SUrtiniT
Pickers. Starting ....
Picking

67
67
61
66
66
61
66
67
66
67
82

Plain

and sheddinflr ....

cam

*• point

cams

" Settinar ....
mechanisms ....

motion 61

'* Ball and shoe . . .

Timinsr the ... .

motions. Equally ^reared .

cloth, Weavini:

61
61
62
61

looms 66

Setting up 66

selvaffe motion 68

weaves 68

Plate. Race 61

Point. PickiniT-cam 67

Poor selvaires 55

Poorly sised yam 57

Position of the shuttle 59

*• warp line. Effect of . . 67

Positive action of cams 68

and non-positive dobbies 60
Power and speed of box looms . . 62

" dobbies ... 60

" weisrht of Northrop

looms 59

" necessary to drive a loom . 56

of the pick 57

Preparinsr harness lines 64

Principal motions of a loom ... 66

Principles of weavins: 51

Production of a loom 51

61
51
53
57
56

Protector motion

Settin&rthe

The

Pulleys 56

PnnchiniT cards. Operation of . . . 66

Purpose of the jacquard 63

Putting in warps 55

Page
19

R 5^. Paxt

Race plate 61 6

" 66 7

" Bevel of the 66 25

•• ShutUe 51 6

Raisinff and lowering the boxes . . 62 4
and lowering the head

of piano machine ... 66 7

Ratchet beam head 61 88

rinff take-up motion ... 62 40

Reading board 66 18

" desifims. Methods of ... 66 18

Reed 61 8

" Dent of a 61 80

" marks 66 81

Reedinar the ends 61 8

Reeds 66 26

" Fast 66 26

" Loose 66 28

Refirnlatinsr the binders and

shuttles ... 62 27
*• let-off and take-
up motions . 67 17

" shed 61 22

" 60 80

61 86

" size of shed . . 67 4

" yoke 61 86

Relief motion 68 26

Repeater 66 86

Repeatinsr 66 86

card cutting, and lacinff 66 1

machine. Automatic . . 66 86

*' or lay-over tie 64 27

Repeat motion 60 22

Settinsrthe .... 60 38

Reverse sears. Settins: the .... 62 18

motion 52 12

63 11

RevolvinsT-box motions 62 1

Risrht- and left-hand doups .... 61 6

hand and left-hand dobbies 60 18

** " loom 57 1

" shuttle 67 1

Rise-and-fall motion 63 26

Rods. Lease 56 42

57 6

Roll. Cloth 51 2

*• Take-up 59 20

" Whip 55 12

Rolls. Harness 68 17

Rotary-box motion 62 21

Rule to find the change srear
for required number of

picks 56 44

to find the constant of a

take-up motion 5G 44

XVI

INDEX

Sec. Page
Rule to find the production of a

loom 51 48

" to find the production of a

loom 56 45

" to find the size of srears on

cam-shafts 58 15

" to obtain the desired throw

of a cam 56 15

Sateens 58 1

Satin cams. Pive-hamess 58 11

" weaves, Pive-hamess .... 58 11

Self-acting: cylinder motions ... 68 19

Selvagre cams, Settins: tape .... 58 24

" motion 51 8

51 48

63 42

Plain 58 20

Tape 58 22

** ** Universal .... 52 53

" motions 52 51

" •* of cams 58 20

Selvages. Poor 55 82

Set of cards. Cuttins: a 65 17

Setting and fixins: jacquards ... 68 38
" and timing: box motions . 53 27
" and timing: the cylinder . . 63 43
" and timing: the double-
cylinder dobby 60 32

" and timing: the filling: stop-
motion 53 83

** and timing: the shedding:

motion 53 12

" and timing: the sing:le-

cylinder dobby 60 27

binders 56 19

" " and binder straps 57 12

" harness cams 51 20

•• 57 4

' " picking: cams 57 9

tape selvag:e cams .... 58 24

the clutch g:car 60 82

** cylinder 60 29

" *• dobby crank-shaft . . 60 28

" " filling:-chang:ing: motion 59 24

*' filling: stop-motion . . 51 89

" " jumper 61 36

" knives 60 28

" *• lug: strap 57 10

" " protector motion ... 51 42

... 53 36

"... 57 15

*' •* repeat motion 60 33

" " reverse g:ears 52 13

" " take-up motion .... 57 17

Setting: the warp stop-motion ... 69

up plain looms 56

Setting:s 61

'* Loom . . 57

" of harness cams 67

Shaded g:oods 55

Shafts. Operation of front and back 62

Shape of a cam 56

Shed 51

r . 56

Close 52

Compound 60

Sec. Page
69 28

Open

Reg:ulating: the .

Split . .

size of

Shedding: .

and picking:
by cams . .
mechanism

Defects of .
" Knowles . .

" of a loom

motion. Side-cam . . . .
Timing: and set-
ting: the . . . .

Open

Sheds. Types of

** Varieties of

Shoe and ball picking: motion . . .
Shuttle

box

boxes

g:uard

Heel of the . . .
" Left-hand . . .

Position of the .
" race

Right-hand. . .

smashes . . . .
Shuttles

and binders

catching:

g:oin8: crooked and flying:
out

52
60
51
60
61
57
62
60
56
61
56
51
53
65
52
58
51

53
60
62
60
51
51
56
56
51
56
67
57
59
41
57
55
51
55
56
59
62
62

14
27
20
21
17
27
i7

INDEX

xvii

Shuttles sroinsr crooked and flylnsr

out 67

Starting 67

Side-cam sbeddinsf motion .... 61

" cams . .~ 68

Sinsrle-cylinder dobby 60

cylinder dobby. Timing and

settinfiTtlie 60

cylinder, doable-lift jac-

quards

cylinder, double-lift jac-

quards. Speed of .... 63
index anddouble-index

dobbies 60

" lift and double-lift dobbies 60
" '* jacquard, Disadvan-

tasre of 63

" jacquards 63

" " dobbies. Leno weavinsr

on 61

Size of srears on cam-shafts ... 68

" ** shed. Regrulatins: the ... 67

Sizes of jacquard machines .... 63

Skewers . 69

Skip motion 66

Skipping 60

Pfllinar 63

Skips. Harness 66

Slackener 61

Slammins: 66

Slidinsr pick motion .62

Slips 64

Slow motion for chain cylinders . 62

Smashes. Shuttle 66

Solid comber board 64

Space occupied by looms 66

Speed and power of box looms . . 62

dobbies ... 60

of double-lift, sine: le- cylin-
der jacquards 63

" looms. CalculatiniT the . 56

Spindle spring: 57

Split shed 52

Splitting. Bobbin 55

Sprins: box 63

Spindle 57

Stamping:. Card 65

Standard harness 61

Star gear 62

Starting: and erecting: looms ... 55

" ... 57

picker sticks 57

" pickers 57

shuttles 67

Steel-harness stop-motion .... 69

10
26
5

63 29

See. Page Sec. Page

Sticks breakinsr. Picker 66 27

" Picker 66 20

" Starting: picker 67 12

Still box motion 62 22

Stitchins: 63 40

Stop-motion. Adjustingr the filUnar 51 39

" " and hopper 69 11

*• Care of flllingr .... 66 21

** " Center 61 87

'* Cotton-harness ... 69 3

Pillingr 61 3

86 61 37

63 82

16 " •• " 66 37

14 57 16

• 59 9

26 " " Setting: the warp . . 69 23
4 '* " Steel-harness .... 69 7

Timing: the aiUng: . . 63 88

8 " motions. Automatic 66 8

16 " " Warp 69 8

4 Straig:ht or Norwich tie 64 7

46 " throug:h tie 64 26

18 Strap. Adjusting: the lugr 66 18

10 •* Setting: the lug: / 67 10

31 Styles of harness ties 64 7

38 Supplies 65 36

8 Supporting: jacquards. Methods of 64 3

14 Swords. Lay 51 11

37 T

6 Table of chains and pinion g:ears . 52 47

13 " " sizes of jacquard ma-

14 chines 63 46

6 Take-up and let-off motions ... 67 17
43 " " Continuous 68 28

29 " " mechanisms 62 40

33 " *' motion 51 3

51 84

36 53 36 t

43 •• " " 56 35

27 Care of 66 22

2 Conditional ... 52 48

8 Intermittent ... 56 35

30 •• •* " Ratchet ring:. .52 40

13 " " " Setting: the. . . . 57 17
27 •• '* " Worm 52 44

4 '* " motions 56 3

3 " " roll 59 20

8 Tape selvage cams. Setting .... 58 24

4 " •* motion 58 22

2 Temple 59 19

12 " Burr of the .SI 46

11 Temples 51 44

14 •• 56 3

7 •• 57 16

xvin

INDEX

Sec.

Temples. Loom 56

Tbick and tbin places in cloth ... 66

Tbin places in tbe cloth 57

Throw of the cam 66

Tie. Centered 64

" Cross or London 64

" Lay-over or repeating .... 64

" Straight or Norwich 64

" Straisrht-tbrousrh 64

Ties. Combination 64

" Styles of harness 64

Tiffht and loose pulleys 66

Timinff and setting box motions . 58

and settinsr tbe cylinder . . 68
" and settinsr the double^yl-

inderdobby 60

*' and setting: the filling stop-
motion 58

" and settinsr the sheddinsr

motion 58

*' and settinsr sinsrle-cylinder

dobby 60

" the box motion 62

•' " boxes 62

" " srriflf 68

*' " harness cams 61

*' *' pickins: motion .... 61

" " seWasre motion .... 63

Topdoups 61

Treadles 66

Tuminsr the cylinder 6S

TwUl. Cams for «» 68

*T 68

Twills 68

Two-harness work. Undercams

for other than 58

Tyinsr. Harness 64

" " lines to couplinsrs 64

lines to neck cords 64

in warps 67

Types of automatic looms .... 69

" dobbies 60

" sheds 62

Undercam looms. Attachments for 58

motion 51

Undercams for other than two har-
ness work 66

Underpick motion 66

Pi9£e
40
80
25
16
29

9
27

7
26
81

7
42
27
48

27
29
24
42
21
26
42
20
18
14

1
20
18

8
28
14

18
10
14

1
16

Sbc. Page

Unequally sreared looms 62 86

pickinsr motions 62 86

Uneven yam 67 28

Universal selvasre motion 62 68

Varieties of sheds 60 2

Vamishinsr harnesses 64 28

Warp 61 2

66 2

" line 67 7

" stop-motion. Settinsr the . . 60 28

" " motions 69 8

" yam. Larffe knots in the . . 67 29

Warps. Puttinsr in 66 6

•* Tyinsr in 67 8

Weak Warps 66 84

Weave. Broken crow 68 8

" room. Defects caused out-
side of 67 28

Weaves. Pive-hamess satin .... 68 11

Weavlnsr 61 1

" Auxiliary motions of . . 61 81
" on open-shed dobbies.

Leno 61 25

" " sinsrle-lift dobbies.

Leno 61 8

plain cloth 61 12

•• 61 80

Principal motions of . . 61 8

" . . 61 8

Principle of 51 2

Weisrht of and power required by

Northrop looms 59 27

Whip end 61 2

" roll 66 12

Wires. Drop 69 8

Workmanship 66 87

Woolen and worsted cam-looms . 51 1

" ** ** fancy looms 62 1

68 1

" ** ** loom.Cromp-

ton . 58 2

fixinsr . 66 1

Worm take-up motion 62 44

Yam, Faulty 67 28

Yoke. Resrulatinsr the 61 86

" The 61 80

WOOLEN AND WORSTED
CAM-LOOMS

INTRODUCTION

1. Weaving: is the process of interlacing yarn» threads,
strips, or strands of various materials in such a manner as
to produce cloth or fabrics of an allied nature. All weaving
operations are performed on machines called looms, which
vary in construction according to the kind of fabrics they
produce. The strictest interpretation of the term weaving
includes the production of all articles woven by a loom of
any type, varying from the finest muslin to heavy blankets,
from tape to sail cloth, and even including wire screening
and fencing; but the generally accepted association of the
word is with textile fabrics composed of wool, cotton, silk,
or other fibrous materials. Fundamentally, weaving is a
comparatively simple process, but the great variety of move-
ments applied to a modern loom for varying the product and
accelerating the operation has resulted in many varieties of
complicated looms, while the actual work of the weaver has
been greatly simplified by automatic attachments and various
other improvements in weaving machinery. Like many
other textile processes, weaving was formerly accomplished
by hand, and even today the hand loom is an important
factor in some branches of the industry in certain localities.
The application of motive power to driving looms has, how-
ever, become almost universal and has led to many improve-
ments in their construction.

For notice of coPyfight, see Page hnmeJiiitely following the title page
91 -2

2 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS §51

2. Principle of Weaving. — Every woven fabric is com-
posed of two systems of yarns — the warp and the Hlling.
There may be two or more warps or two or more systems
of filling. The majority of fabrics are, however, what are
known as sinp[le cloths and are composed of one system of
warp yam and one system of filling yarn. The warp is that
system of yarn that runs lengthwise of the fabric and con-
sists of a large number of separate threads, or ends. The
number of ends in the warp depends, of course, on the ends
per inch in the cloth and the width of the fabric. Before
being woven, the separate ends of the warp, which are of
equql length and arranged parallel to each other in the form
of a sheet of yarn, are wound tightly on a round wooden roll
usually constructed with iron heads and journals. This roll
constitutes a part of the loom and is known as the loom
beam or simply the beam. In the process of weaving, the
warp yarn is slowly unwound from the beam, which is placed
at the back of the loom, while as the weaving progresses, the
woven cloth is wound on a roll at the front of the loom
known as the cloth roll. The fllllniic is that system of
threads that runs across the fabric from selvage to selvage
and unlike the warp consists of a continuous thread or
threads that are passed back and forth from one side of
the cloth to the other and are interlaced with the warp.
The filling is placed in the cloth 1 pick at a time by means
of a moving part of the loom known as the shuttle, which
travels back and forth across the loom from one shuttle box
to the other. The filling is wound in the form of a bobbin
or cop, which is placed on a spindle in the shuttle.

In order to produce a woven fabric each warp end is
drawn through the eye of a hoddle placed on any one of a
number of wooden frames known as harnesses. These
harnesses, which are carried in the center of the loom, are
operated by a suitable mechanism so that any of them may
be raised or lowered through the space of a few inches when
desired. Since some of the harnesses are raised while
others are lowered, a diamond-shaped opening, known as the
abed, is made in the warp, through which the shuttle carrying

§51 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS 3

the filling is thrown. The shed then closes, after which
a new shed is formed by the raising and lowering of other
harnesses and the filling inserted as previously, thus inter-
lacing the filling with the warp and forming a woven fabric.
These two operations are known as shedding: and picking^.
The shuttle in being thrown from one side of the loom to
the other leaves the filling some distance from the edge, or,
as it is technically known, the fell of the cloth. It is neces-
sary, therefore, after the insertion of each pick, to push the
filling forwards to the cloth that has already been woven.
This operation is known as beating up and is accomplished
by an oscillating portion of the loom called the lay that
carries a grate-like arrangement of vertical wires known as
the reed, through which the warp is passed. The three
operations of shedding, picking, and beating up are known
as the principal motions of weaving and are common to all
types of looms. In weaving any fabric these three opera-
tions are repeated over and over again as the cloth is made
pick by pick.-

3. Other motions are applied to looms, but they are of
the nature of auxiliary motiojis and are not typical of any
principle of the weaving process. The chief auxiliary
motions are: (1) The let-off motioji for controlling the beam
and letting the warp unwind as fast as the cloth is woven
while it at all times keeps the proper tension on the warp;
(2) the take-up motion for winding the cloth on the cloth roll
as it is woven by the loom; (3) the filling stop-mot io7i for
automatically stopping the loom in case the filling breaks;
(4) the protector motion for protecting the warp yarn from
being broken by the lay and shuttle in case the latter for any
reason remains in the shed when the lay moves forwards to
beat up the filling; (5) the selvage motioii for manipulating
the selvage ends at each side of the warp in such a manner
as to produce smooth and firm edges on the cloth.

WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS §51

CONSTRUCTION OF CAM-LOOMS

4. The simplest power loom employed for woolen and
worsted fabrics is the cuiu-loom, so called because the rais-
ing and lowering of the harnesses to form the shed is accom-
plished by means of cams. A cam-loom suitable for weav-
ing flannels, cassimeres, trouserings, or other goods requiring
only one kind of filling and not more than eight harnesses is
shown in Figs. 1 and 2, the former being a front view and
the latter showing the loom as seen from the rear. The
loom consists primarily of two side frames a^ a, connected by
girts and supporting the arch «»; thesQ parts are securely
bolted together so that a strong aixd suitable support is made
for the various mechan,isjus ip.f; thfe lo.onr. \ The crank-shaft b
extends entirely across the loom and is ctirried in two bear-
ings securely fastened to the side. frames. This shaft is so
bent as to form two cranks, which are connected by pitman arms
^„ Fig. 8 (rt), with the lay /. The lay is supported by the lay
swords /i and when actuated by the crank-shaft moves back-
wards and forwards beating up each pick of filling as it is
inserted in the cloth. A hand wheel ^, is fastened to one
end of the crank-shaft, so that the weaver may turn the crank-
shaft of the loom by hand, as is often necessary. The bottom
shaft r, which extends entirely across the loom, is located
approximately under the crank-shaft and is supported by
bearings bolted to the side frames of the loom; it carries tw^o
castings r, [sec Fig. H (r/) ], one on each side of the loom.
These castings carry iron rolls r, called pick balls, which
acting through suitable mechanisms in a manner somewhat
similar to cams, impart motion to the i)icker sticks rf„ d..
The upper end of the picker stick imparts motion to a raw-
hide picker e^ working freely on a spindle i\ at the back of the
shuttle box c, which is at the end of the lay. One end of
the picker projects into the shuttle box e and imparts motion
to the shuttle. As there are two shuttle boxes and a picking

THE N"i~/'''vOh:rl

PUBLIC I

. i

WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS

6 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS §51

motion on each side of the loom, the shuttle is thrown back
and forth from one shuttle box to the other. The top of the
lay, over which the shuttle travels in moving from one box
to the other, is usually made of a thin strip of steel or hard-
wood /„ and is known as the race plate, or shuttle race.
The shed, or opening in the warp, for the insertion of each
pick of filling is formed by means of cams k placed on a
shaft at the side of the loom and driven by means of bevel
gears from the bottom shaft. These cams operate harness
levers, or jacks, / that raise and lower the harnesses (not
shown in Figs. 1 and 2) through which the warp is drawn, thus
forming the sheds for the insertion of the filling. The loom
beam n on which the warp is wound rests in bearings a, sup-
ported by the frame of the loom. The warp passes from the
beam over the whip roll ^, through the harnesses, which are
connected to the shedding mechanism, and then through the
reed (not shown), which is an arrangement of vertical wires
supported at the bottom by the lay and at the top by the reed
cap /,. As fast as the cloth is woven it is drawn over the
breast beam a, and wound on a cloth roll p by means of
the take-up motion, which is operated from the lay by a
mechanism imparting motion to the rachet r.

5. The driving gearing is as follows: Motion is imparted
to the loom by means of a belt running on a self-oiling
face-friction pulley^, Figs. 2 and 3, on the shaft ^,. Fastened
to one end of the driving shaft g^ is a twenty-two-tooth bevel-
pinion gear .^3 meshing with a gear c^ of ninety-six teeth set-
screwed to the bottom shaft of the loom. The gear r, is of
peculiar construction, having teeth arranged to mesh with the
gear g^ and also having teeth on its circumference meshing
with the gear b^ after the manner of an ordinary spur gear.
The gear b^ is fastened to the crank-shaft of the loom and
has forty-eight teeth; since this is exactly one-half the num-
ber of the teeth in the gear r„ the speed of the crank-shaft
will consequently be twice that of the bottom shaft. The
reason for this relative speed is that in making one revolu-
tion the bottom shaft inserts 2 picks into the cloth, and as

§51 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS 7

the lay must beat up each of these picks separately, the
crank-shaft must make two revolutions while the bottom
shaft is making one.

The shedding mechanism must always be so arranged that
a shed will be made for each revolution of the crank-shaft.
Looms in which the crank-shaft makes two revolutions to
one of the bottom shaft are said to be geared two to one;
some looms for special purposes are equally geared. Many
looms have the driving pulley directly on the crank-shaft, but
these are fast-speed looms. Where looms are run at slow
speed, some reducing motion must be used so that the dri-
ving pulley may run at a sufficient speed to efficiently transmit
the required power to the machine. The speed of a loom is
always considered as the speed of the crank-shaft; therefore,
when a loom is geared as shown in Fig. 2, in order to find
the speed it is necessary to multiply the revolutions of the
loom pulley by the teeth in the pinion gear and divide by the

990 V 99

number of teeth in the crank-shaft gear: -^^|^^ = 100.83.

In this case 220 revolutions per minute of the loom pulley
will place approximately 100 picks per minute in the cloth.
The friction driving pulley gy Fig. 3, is loose on the driving
shaft g^ and, by means of a lever h^ fitted with a yoke that
engages with a groove cut in the hub of the pulley, may be
forced in contact with the friction plate ;^,, which is fastened
to the shaft. The lever h^ is controlled by either of the ship-
per handles hy h, which are setscrewed to a shaft h^ extending
across the loom. When the shipper handle is drawn for-
wards, the pin h^ operates the lever h^ that swings on the
stud h^ and draws forwards the rod ^„ which operates the
casting h^ attached to the lever //.. A spring h^ is so
arranged as to hold the pin h, securely in the notch in the
lever h^ when the shipper handle is drawn forwards, so that
the jar and vibration of the loom will not cause the pin to be
released from its retaining notch. This spring also instantly
disengages the friction in case the shipper handle of the loom
is operated by any of the stop-motions that will be explained
later. Looms are often equipped with tight-and-loose pulleys

8 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS §51

instead of a friction, but the latter is to be preferred for
heavy looms using wide belts, as by its use the constant
shifting of the belt is avoided and at the same time the
power is communicated to and removed from the loom in
the least possible time. Friction pulleys are necessary also
if a very short belt must be used.

PRINCIPAIi MOTIONS OF WEAVING

SHEDDING MECHANISM

6. The harnesses through which the ends of the warp
have been drawn must be connected to some mechanism by
means of which certain of them may be raised and others
lowered, so as to make a division or opening in the warp.
Through the opening, or shed, thus formed, the shuttle is
thrown and the pick of filling inserted. The relative posi-
tion of the harnesses is then changed; some, or all, of those
that were raised are lowered while others are raised, so that
a new shed is formed, through which the shuttle is again
thrown and another pick of filling inserted. The harnesses
are raised and depressed in a definite order, so that a certain
weave or method of interlacing the filling with the warp will
be followed out; for instance, with the warp drawn through
the harnesses in regular order from front to back, if all the
odd-numbered harnesses arc raised for one pick and all the
even-numbered ones for the next pick, a plain weave will be
formed in the cloth. In this case one pick will pass under
all the odd-numbered ends and over all the even-numbered
ends, while with the next pick the reverse will be true.

By arranging the lifting of the harnesses, therefore, vari-
ous methods of interlacing the wan") ^nd filling so as to
produce twilled or other efTccts may be obtained. Harness-
shedding mechanisms can only be used when a large number
of warp ends are raised and lowered in the same order, since
all of the ends drawn in the heddlcs placed on a single har-
ness must work alike. If only two harnesses are operated.

10 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS §51

there can be but two orders of raising and lowering the
warp threads; if three harnesses are used, there may be
three sets of warp threads raised and lowered independently
of each other, and so on, the number of harnesses used
always governing the number of ways in which it is possi-
ble to operate the warp ends.

7. Side-Cam Shedding: Motion. — On cam-looms, the
raising and lowering of the harnesses is accomplished by
means of cams. These, if placed at one side of the loom,
are known as side cams; but if placed under the har-
nesses, are known as an under-cam motion. Fig. 4
shows the usual arrangement of side cams on woolen looms.
Each of the several harnesses w carries a number of wire
heddles ;wi threaded on two heddle bars, one at the top and
one at the bottom of the harness frame. Each end in the
warp that is to be raised and lowered in the same manner as
this particular harness is drawn through 4:he eye of a heddle
placed on the harness. The harness is attached by means
of leather straps w, passing over sheaves a^, a^ and hooked
wires Wa, to a small iron stirrup slipped over the upper end
of the harness lever, or jack, /, which is movable on a ful-
crum at A. The lower end of the jack is connected to the
harness by means of a similar stirrup, a wire ;;/„ a strap ;;/,
passing around a sheave a^, and a wire yoke ;;/*. Motion is
imparted to the jack / and thus to the harness by means of
a cam k attached to a rotating cam-shaft k^, A cam-bowl /,
on the jack works in the cam-course k^ of the cam, and as
the latter rotates, the lower end of the jack is forced inwards
and drawn outwards and the harness w raised and lowered,
thus raising and lowering the warp threads drawn through
the heddles. By constructing the cam with a cam-course
of proper shape, the harness may be made to move in any
desired manner so that it will remain up or down while a
given number of picks are being placed in the cloth. The
position of the cam, jack, and harness when the latter is
lowered, is shown in Fig. 4 by the dotted lines. In this
illustration the connections of only one harness are shown,

§51 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS 11

the dotted lines simply showing the same harness in another
position, but ordinarily cam-looms operate from two to eight
harnesses, each with its corresponding jack, cam, etc.

The harness may be made to move through a greater dis-
tance by moving the stirrup toward the end of the jack by
means of the notches in the ends of the latter. The harnesses
that are farthest from the fell of the cloth should be allowed
to move through a greater distance than those nearer to the
cloth, in order that they may raise and depress the warp yarn
at the same angle, so that a clear and opeashed may be made.
This is usually accomplished by stepping the stirrups in
regular order from a low notch on the upper end of the front
jack to a high notch on the jack operating the back harness.
Care should be taken to place the stirrup at the bottom of the
jack in the same relative notch as the top stirrup, so that each
will be equidistant from the fulcrum of the jack; otherwise,
the straps and wire connections to the harness will be strained
and broken in shedding. The cams operating the back har-
nesses are also constructed so as to give a greater lift to the
harness. The straps w„ w, are perforated so that the harness
may be hooked at any desired height in order to make the
warp yarn just clear the race plate of the lay when the har-
ness is in its lowest position, and so that the harness may be
strapped tight or loose as is desired.

In Fig. 5, the passage of the warp w* from the warp beam n,
over the whip roll o, through the heddles ;«i of the har-
nesses niy and over the breast beam a, to the cloth roll p
is shown; this figure also illustrates how the shed is formed
by the harnesses. It will be noticed that some of the har-
nesses are raised while others are lowered; consequently,
the warp ends drawn through the heddles of the harnesses
that are raised are also raised, while those drawn through
the heddles of the harnesses that are lowered are also
lowered. Through the opening thus formed in the shed,
the shuttle s is thrown, traveling back and forth across the
loom upon the lay /, which is supported by arms /, known
as lay swords. As successive sheds are formed by raising
and lowering other harnesses and the filling inserted in

12 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS §51

14 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS §51

these sheds to form the cloth, the warp «* is unwound, the
yam is drawn through the heddles, and the woven cloth is
wound on the cloth roll p,

8. Under - Cam Motion. — The under-cam shedding
motion is rarely applied to looms designed for woolen and
worsted fabrics. Fig. 6, in which (a) is a front and {b) a
side view, shows an under-cam motion for operating four
harnesses and illustrates the principle involved in this
method of shedding. Four cams k, ^,, >&„ ^„ each con-
structed to lower the harness for one shed and allow it to
be raised for three consecutive sheds, are fastened to a
rotating shaft c. They operate four levers, or treadles, /,
the two not shown being hidden from view by the one shown
raised. The treadles are fulcrumed at A and attached to the
harnesses m by means of straps w.. The cam-bowl /, being
in contact with the circumference of the cam results in the
treadle and harness being lowered when that part of the cam
farthest from the shaft comes in contact with the cam-bowl.
The harnesses are, as is more clearly shown in the perspec-
tive view, Fig. 6 (r), so hung by straps m^ from wooden
rolls w,, w„ Wa supported by the arch of the loom that when
one harness is depressed its motion serves to raise the har-
ness that was depressed on the previous pick, thus making a
positive motion from cams that are really only partially posi-
tive in their action.

9. Construction of Cams. — Cam-shedding mecha-
nisms are only adapted to weaves having comparatively
simple interlacings, since each end that interlaces with the
filling in a manner different from other ends requires a sep-
arate cam to operate the harness through which it is drawn.
For instance, if a weave is complete on 5 ends, that is, if it
contains 5 ends each interlacing with the filling differently
from the other 4 ends, it will require ^v^ cams in order to
raise and lower the five harnesses, through one of which
each of these ends must be drawn so that each end will
interlace with the filling according to the method indicated
by the weave.

§51 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS 15

Cams may be constructed to so operate the harnesses that
the warp ends controlled by them will be raised or depressed
for any reasonable number of picks and in any order desired.
The shaft on which the cams are placed is usually speeded
so that it will make one revolution while the crank-shaft of
the loom is making a number of revolutions equal to the
number of picks in one repeat of the weave.

This is necessary because one revolution of the cam-shaft
must make the sheds for each pick of the weave and the
crank-shaft must move the lay forwards to beat up each of
these picks separately. As the weaves usually woven on
cam-looms are complete on the same number of ends and
picks, it follows that the shaft on which the cams are placed
makes one revolution while the crank-shaft makes as many
revolutions as there are cams on the cam-shaft. For instance,
if the cams are constructed and the loom adapted for a weave
complete on 4 ends and 4 picks, four cams are necessary and
the crank-shaft will make four revolutions while the cam-
shaft is making one; if the weave requires six cams and
there are 6 picks in one repeat of the weave, then the crank-
shaft will make six revolutions to one of the cam-shaft, and
so on. It should be distinctly understood that the number
of cams is not actually the governing element, but the
number of picks to one repeat of the weave; the number
of cams simply serves as a guide when the weave is com-
plete on the same number of ends as picks.

In constructing a harness cam, in order to find the correct
shape of the cam-course for any desired motion of the har-
ness, there are several important points that must be taken
into consideration before any attempt is made to draw the
cam. The diameter of the cam-shaft, of the hub of the cam,
and of the cam-bowl must first be considered; then the throw
of the cam must be determined; and finally the manner in
which the harness is to be lifted should be considered.
Suppose that it is desired to construct a cam to raise the
harness for 2 picks and lower it for 2 picks, 4 picks consti-
tuting one repeat of the weave. The shaft on which this
cam is to be placed is I2 inches in diameter; then the first

16 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS §51

operation is to describe a circle a \\ inches in diameter
(see Fig. 7). If the hub of this cam is to be 2i inches in
diameter, another circle b must be described with the same
center as the previous one but 2i inches in diameter. Sup-
pose that the cam-bowl fastened to the harness lever is
1 inch in diameter. Another circle c must now be described

Fio. 7

using the same center and such a radius that the distance x
between the circles d and c shall be equal to one-half the
diameter of the cam-bowl, or i inch. This circle represents
the position of the center of the cam-bowl when it is nearest
the hub of the cam and the harness is in its lowest position.
It is next necessary to determine the amount of throw that
the cam shall have, and in this connection the required lift of

§51 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS 17

the harness and the leverage through which the cam is to

act must be considered. Suppose that in this case it is

desired to impart a vertical movement of 5 inches to the

harness and that the cam is to operate through a harness jack

after the manner shown in Fig. 4. If the distance from the

fulcrum of the jack to the point where the harness strap is

connected is 30 inches and the distance from the fulcrum of

the jack to the center of the cam-bowl is 24 inches, the cam

0 X 24
must have a throw of — .- - , or 4, inches from heel to toe in

order to raise the harness 5 inches. Having found the throw
of the cam, another circle is described with the same center
and a radius of such magnitude that the distance / shall be
4 inches. This circle represents the path of the center of the
cam-bowl when it is traversing that part of the cam farthest
from the center and the harness is raised to its highest posi-
tion. This cam is to be constructed for a weave complete on
4 picks and will consequently make only one revolution to
every 4 picks placed in the cloth. The next operation, there-
fore, is to divide the circle representing the position of the
center of the cam-bowl when it is farthest from the center of
the shaft into four equal parts, as shown by the heavy dotted
lines dd^ and h^e^. Each of these divisions represents the dis-
tance that the cam will turn during the time the crank-shaft of
the loom is making one revolution and 1 pick of filling is being
placed in the cloth; the shape and position of the cam-course,
then, in any one of these divisions governs the action of the
harness while that particular pick of filling is being inserted.
This cam is to be constructed so that the harness will
remain raised for 2 consecutive picks and lowered for 2 picks;
therefore, two of the divisions, say e^d and dh^, will be
used while the harness is up, and two, //« dy^ and d^ e^y will
be used while the harness is down. In the first case, the
center of the cam-bowl will be moving along the circle d\ and
in the latter case, along the circle r,. It is evident that some
allowance must be made for the time consumed by the har-
ness in passing from the bottom to the top shed and vice versa,
as it would be obviously impossible for the cam-bowl to pass

91—3

18 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS §51

instantaneously from its lowest to its highest position or vice
versa; nor would such a motion be desirable, as the harness
should be moved as smoothly and easily as possible. One-
half a pick is usually allowed for each change of the harness,
although sometimes more is allowed so as to make the
movement of the harness as slow as possible consistent with
having it change in time. In this case, this equals one-half
of one of the four divisions into which the cam was divided.
One-half of this distance is laid oflE on each side of the lines
indicating where the harness is to pass from one shed to the
other. Thus, if the cam is rotating in the direction indicated
by the arrow, the distance / h is equal to one-half of 1 pick
and one-half of this is laid ofiE on each side of the radius
passing to point A*, indicating the distance the cam will turn
while the harness is being raised. During this period the
center of the cam-bowl must move from j io h. In the same
way, the distance ef, which is also equal to i pick, represents
the distance that the cam will move while the harness is
passing from the top to the bottom shed. During this period
the center of the cam-bowl must move from e to g.

In rising and falling, the harness should start to move
slowly, its speed gradually increasing until the center of the
shed is reached, when it should uniformly decrease until
the motion is completed. If the cam is shaped to move the
harness in this manner, a minimum of strain is placed on the
warp yarn when it is at its greatest tension, that is, when
the harness is up or down, and at the same time the change
is accomplished in a minimum of time by moving the harness
quickly in the center of the shed, while the yarn is not
subjected to so great a strain. This motion is obtained by
dividing the arcs e / and h i into an arbitrary number of equal
parts, say eight. From the points e,, ^„ e», ^•«, ^., ^„ ^r and
//,, Aty ^», ^«, ^., ^o //r thus obtained radii are drawn to the
center of the cam. With a radius equal to one-half the throw
of the cam and a center on any convenient radii of the circle,
describe a semicircle / /* g, one end of which shall lie in the
circle d di and the other in the circle r r,. Divide this semi-
circle into the same number of equal parts in which the arcs ^i

§51 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS 19

and hi were divided. From the points /i,/.,/.,/4, /.,/•, A
draw lines fxgi,ftg^,fzg»yLj^4„f*g*,f.g*,ffgfj perpendicular
to the radius on which the center of the semicircle was
located, in this case the line fg. With the center of the cam as
a center, strike arcs through the points ^„ g^, ^„ g^, g^, ^„ g,
cutting: the lines drawn from the equal divisions of the arcs
ef and h i. Through the points :/, 2, 5, 4, 5, 6, 7 obtained by
the intersection of these arcs with the radii draw a smooth
curve connecting e and g. In the same way, connect h and j
with a line drawn through i,, 2,, 5,, </,, 5x, ^,, 7,. The shape
of the cam is now practically determined, the heavy dot-and-
dash line c-d-h-j-c-g representing the path that the center
of the cam-bowl must travel during one revolution of the cam,
or 4 picks of the loom. To find the actual shape of the
cam-course with which the cam must be cast, or cut, it is
only necessary to take a radius equal to that of the cam-bowl
and with successive centers on the path of the center of
the cam-bowl strike arcs on each side as shown. Lines
k-kx-k^-k:,-k^-k^ and l-h-L-L-L-L drawn tangent to these
arcs show the exact shape of the cam-course required to
move the cam-bowl so that its center will constantly follow
the line e-d-h-j-Cx-g,

10. Considering the action of the cam, suppose that the
center of the cam-bowl is at j and that the cam rotates as
shown by the arrow; the cam-bowl moves from / to h with a
variable motion, raising the harness from the bottom to the
top shed. At the point /» the greatest speed is attained, and
at this point the harness is exactly in the center of the shed.
The cam-bowl then moves from // through d to e. Since this
portion of the path is the true arc of a circle having the center
of the cam as a center, the harness remains stationary at the
top shed. This portion of the cam is known as the dwell
of tlie cam and allows the shuttle to be thrown through the
shed without interfering with the warp. In passing from
eio g the harness is lowered in exactly the same manner as
it was raised and, while the cam-bowl passes from g through c^
to/, the harness is stationary at the bottom shed, this part of

20 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS §51

the cam being also a dwell. With careful observation of the
method employed in constructing the cam in Fig. 7, no diffi-
culty should be experienced in constructing a set of cams for
any weave. It should be noted that if a cam is to be
constructed for an under-cam motion, it is unnecessary to
determine the line k-k-k^-k^-k^-k^. Cams for the harnesses
farthest from the fell of the cloth should be made with a
somewhat greater throw than those for the front harness, the
part of the cam nearest the hub being made smaller, so that
the harness will fall lower, and the outer diameter of the
cam-course being made greater, so that the harness will rise
higher, in order that the yarn drawn through this harness
shall be raised and lowered at the same angle as that drawn
through the front harness.

The cams in Fig. 1 arc so constructed that in one revolu-
tion they raise the harness for 2 picks, lower it for 2, raise
it for 2, and lower it for 2, being really what might be termed
double ca?ns. The cam-shaft makes one revolution to eight
of the crank-shaft or one to four of the bottom shaft.

11. Setting Harness Cams. — A set of harness cams
may be fastened together or to the cam-shaft so that the
harnesses will be raised in any desired order. For example,
suppose that a set of cams is constnicted so that each cam
will lift the harness for 1 pick and lower it for 8 picks.
These cams may be fastened to the cam-shaft in such a
relative position that on the first pick the first harness will be
raised, on the second pick the second harness will be raised,
on the third pick the third harness, and on the fourth pick the
fourth harness, thus forming a regular twill in the cloth; or
they may be put together so that on the first pick the first
harness will be raised, on the second pick the second, on the
third pick the fourth, and on the fourth the third, thus form-
ing a broken twill in the fabric; or any other order, such as
four, three, two, one, in which four numbers can be arranged
may be used.

When the cams are placed together, they should be so
arranged that the change part of one cam that raises the

§51 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS 21

harness will overlap the change part of the cam or cams that
are lowering a harness exactly one-half, so that tke harness
that is rising will pass the harness that is being lowered
exactly in the center of the shed. In order that this may be
accurately accomplished, the cam-shaft is key-seated and
fitted with a solid spline, while each cam has as many key-
ways cut in its hub as there are cams on the shaft, as shown
in Fig. 4. Thus, the cams may be arranged to raise the har-
nesses in any desired order, but as the keyways are cut in
the proper place it is impossible to fasten the cams to the
shaft in a wrong position.

12, Timings the Harness Cams. — After the cams are
placed together so as to raise the harnesses in the required
order, they must be timed so that the shed will be opened
and closed at the proper periods. The. lay is first brought
forwards until the reed nearly reaches the fell of the cloth;
then the bevel gear on the bottom shaft is loosened and the
cam-shaft turned until the harness or harnesses that are
rising are exactly level with the harness or harnesses that
are being lowered. When the cam-shaft is in this position,
the bevel gear should be securely fastened to the bottom
shaft again. Instead of noting when the changing harnesses
are level, it serves the purpose as well and is sometimes
more convenient and more accurate in case the harnesses are
not properly leveled, to note the position of the jacks and
tighten the bevel gear on the bottom shaft when the cam-
shaft has been moved so that two or more jacks moving in
opposite directions are even with each other. The position
in which the lay is placed depends on whether an early or
late shed is desired; ordinarily, the changing harnesses
should be level when the reed is about 1 inch from the fell
of the cloth, but if an early shed is desired, this distance is
increased, whereas if it is desired to have the shed late, the
lay is placed closer to the fell of the cloth when the cam-
shaft is set. The earlier the shed, the fjreater the strain on
the warp, since the distance that the filling is forced through
a crossed shed is then greater; that is, after the changing

22 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS §51

harnesses have passed each other, the shed is crossed on the
pick of filling:, which, in being forced to the fell of the cloth,
encounters greater resistance from the warp; hence, if the
pick must be moved a greater distance after the shed crosses
before it reaches the fell of the cloth, the strain on the warp
yam is increased. By making the shed close later, this
strain is reduced, and if the changing harnesses were not
level until the reed reached the fell of the cloth, it would
be eliminated.

13. Reg:ulatlui? the Slied. — When the harnesses are
properly timed, the loom should be turned over by hand
until the shed is open to its widest extent. When it is said
that a loom is turned over by hand it is meant that the
weaver operates the loom by hand. Each harness that is
lowered should now be hooked to the harness straps so
that the yarn will just barely clear the race plate of the
lay. The loom should be turned over 1 pick at a time until
all of the harnesses have been so regulated. Before this is
done it is important to see that the stirrups are properly
stepped on the harness jacks, so that the one connected to
the front harness will be in the bottom notch and the one
for the last harness in the top notch of the upper half of
the jack, with the others uniformly graded between. This
method of stepping the stirrups is subject to modifications,
as, for instance, in cases where fewer harnesses arc used than
there are jacks in the loom, but in all cases the harnesses
should be so connected as to give an even and clear shed.
The harness should be strapped to the bottom of the jack in
the same relative position and strapped neither too tight nor
too loose, but with just enough tension to guard against lost
motion or the straining, of the straps. If a harness is
strapped too high, the yarn will not lie close enough to the
race plate and the shuttle is liable to be thrown from the
loom or at least to travel from one box to the other with a
crooked motion, which should be avoided in a well-running
loom. If a harness is strapped too low, so that the yam
presses on the race plate, the yarn will be chafed and broken

§51 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS 23

by the action of the lay in moving forwards and backwards.
Care should be taken to have each harness strapped to the
jack so that all the warp yarn will be lowered to exactly the
same position relative to the race plate. It should be noticed
also whether the yarn is higher on one side of the loom than
on the other.

PICKING MOTION

14. FlcklnfiT, or the operation of throwing the shuttle
through the shed with the filling, is one of the most
important motions of weaving. The picking motion is
somewhat different from any other mechanism of the loom
and is a motion in which a considerable amount of force is
exerted in a comparatively short space of time; this is neces-
sary in order that sufficient momentum may be imparted to
the shuttle to carry it across the loom from one shuttle box
to the other. At the same time a straight, easy, and smooth
motion should be given to the shuttle, since if the shuttle
travels in a jerky or crooked manner the best results are
not obtained. There are several styles of picking motions
applied to power looms, but on woolen and worsted looms
the one known as the ball and slioe picking motion is
generally used. The usual arrangement of the ball and
shoe pick is shown in Fig. 8 (a) and (^), of which the former
is a sectional view of the mechanism, while the latter shows
the appearance from the rear of the loom. A casting r,
securely fastened to the bottom shaft c carries on a stud at
its extremity an iron roller r, known as a pick ball. As the
bottom shaft rotates, the pick ball comes in contact with a
shoe di fastened to the picking shaft dy which is generally
rectangular in section except where it is round so as to be
carried in bearings at the front and back of the loom.
A pick arm d^ is also securely fastened to the picking shaft,
and by means of the sweep stick r/, attached to the pick arm
with a stud and a leather or cloth lug strap d, that encircles
the picker stick d^ and is bolted to the sweep stick, any
movement of the pick arm . may be communicated to the
picker stick. The lug strap is supported by a small leather

24 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAxM-LOOMvS §51

loop di attached to the picker stick with a small screw. The
picker stick is fulcrumed on a stud fastened to a casting /„
which in turn is fastened to a short rocker-shaft to which the
lay sword /, is also attached. This allows the picker stick
to have a movement in unison with the lay as well as the
motion that is imparted to it for throwing: the shuttle.

At the top, the picker stick is attached to a rawhide picker r,
by a strap e^ or else is passed throufi:h a hole in the picker.
The picker is free to slide back and forth on a spindle d,
placed at the back of the shuttle box and projects into the
box so that it engages the shuttle s. Fig. 8 (r) is a per-
spective view of a rawhide picker and shows the method of
attaching it to the picker stick and picker spindle.

26 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS §51

Motion is imparted to the shuttle as follows: The picking
shoe is so shaped that when struck by the revolving pick
ball it will be forced downwards, thus imparting a partial
rotary motion to the picking shaft. This motion throws the
pick arm toward ^the center of the loom, thus drawing the
sweep stick in and swinging the picker stick on its fulcrum.
The picker stick drives the picker along its spindle, and as
the picker presses against the shuttle the latter is thrown
across the loom. These movements are, of course, accom-
plished with considerable speed and force, owing to the
shape of the picking shoe and the rapid movement of
the pick ball. A piece of leather straj) c^ is generally placed
on the picker spindle for a buffer, to prevent the picker from
being damaged at the end of its forward throw by striking
the casting in which the picker spindle is fastened. After
the shuttle has been thrown from the box, the picker stick
is drawn back by means of a spring d^ that is attached at
one end to a leather strap d^ screwed to the heel of the
picker stick and at the other to an adjustable casting d^, by
means of which the tension of the spring can be regulated.
To prevent the picker stick from being damaged by striking
the end of the box. when it is drawn back, and to act as a
buffer to the picker when it is struck by the shuttle reenter-
ing the box, a roll of cloth e^ is generally placed in the end
of the shuttle box. The pick balls at both ends of the
shaft c are set diametrically opposite each other, and as the
picking motion is duplicated on the other side of the loom,
the shuttle is thrown back and forth across the loom through
each shed made by the shedding mechanism, thus inter-
lacing the filling with the warp.

15. Tlinliiir tilt* Pioklnj? Motion. — To time the pick-
ing motion the loom should be turned over until it is on the
top center; that is, with the cranks vertically upwards. The
nuts c^ that fasten the pick ball r:, to the casting r, should
then be loosened and the pick-ball stud moved forwards or
backwards in the slot until the picker stick just starts to
move, and tightened in that position. If the loom is so

^51 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS 27

arrang^ed that it picks first from one side and then from the
other, as in the case of the loom under consideration, it
should be turned over 1 pick before setting the picking
motion on the other side.

16. Blinttles. — The shuttle that carries the pick of
filling through the shed is usually made of some close-
grained hardwood, such as apple, Southern dogwood, per-
simmon, etc. The wood should be reasonably heavy and
well seasoned so that the shuttle will not warp or crack
after it is turned. Extremely heavy wood is not so desirable
as that of medium weight, while light, soft, or coarse-
grained wood is totally unsuitable. The shuttle is shaped
as shown in Fig. 9, being conical at each end and hollowed

Fig. 9

in the center so as to receive the bobbin of filling yarn. At
each end a metal tip is inserted to protect the shuttle when
striking the picker and to present a smooth point to the
yam so that it will not break out the warp while passing
through the shed. The shape of the shuttle is of great
importance, since it must move across the loom in as nearly
a straight line as possible so that it will not fly out.

It should be of a width and length depending on the
shuttle box of the loom for which it is intended and should
be provided with a suitable spindle for holding the bobbin
of yarn. This spindle should be so arranged that it may be
raised through an arc of about 30° so that empty bobbins
may be removed and replaced with full ones.

When in the shuttle, the spindle should be held firmly by
a flat steel spring, so that it cannot rise automatically. At
the front end of the shuttle an iron or porcelain pot-eye is
inserted, through which the filling i4 drawn from the bobbin.
A groove in the side of the shuttle prevents its cutting the

28 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAiM-LOOMS §51

filling by rubbing it against those parts of the shuttle box
with which the shuttle comes in contact. In the front end of
the shuttle near the eye a i-inch hole should be bored
straight through the bottom of the shuttle. A small bunch
of yarn drawn through this hole until the filling will
just run through the loose ends serves as a brush, or
friction, on the filling, and these prevent its running off
the bobbin too freely. This bunch of yarn should be cut
off smoothly on the bottom of the shuttle.

BEATING UP

17. The third and last of the principal movements of
weaving is known as beating up. As the shuttle is thrown
through the shed it leaves a pick of filling between the warj)
threads but some distance from the fell of the cloth; it is
therefore necessary to push the filling up to the cloth that
has been previously woven. This is performed by means of
the lay, Fig. 10 {a) and (^), which has an oscillating motion
and carries the reed, through which the warp ends are drawn.
The lay consists of a heavy beam of wood / supported by the
lay swords /,, which are generally fulcrumed on a rocker-
shaft extending entirely across the loom near the floor, but
which in some looms are fulcrumed on shorter studs. Gen-
erally there are two lay swords, one on each side of the
loom just inside the side frames, but on broad looms three
are often used for the sake of the extra support afforded the
lay. The top of the lay is generally faced with a piece of
steel /« known as the race plate or shuttle race, but on light
looms the race plate may be only a strip of hardwood. The
race plate should be so beveled that when the lay is in the
position farthest from the fell of the cloth it will be parallel
to the bottom shed; that is, to the warp yarn passing to
the fell of the cloth from the harnesses that are down. The
oscillating motion of the lay is imparted to it by the crank-
shaft of the loom. This shaft is bent so as to form two
cranks just inside the frames of the loom and in line with the
lay swords. The cranks are connected to the lay by wooden

WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS §51

pitman arms b^ fastened by means of iron straps encircling the
cranks and the connection on the lay sword. By means of
these connections the rotary motion of the crank-shaft imparts
a forward and backward, or oscillating, motion to the lay.

18. Reed. — The reed /* is an arrangement of vertical
flat steel wires spaced a given distance apart and securely
fastened at the top and bottom by two strips of wood bound
together with a waxed cord, as shown in Fig. 11. The space

between two wires is known as a
dent. Reeds are made with any
desired number of dents per inch,
according to the requirements of
the cloth that is to. be woven. The
reed has three important functions:
(1) It separates the ends of the
warp and distributes them evenly
throughout the entire width of the
fabric. (2) It beats the filling up
to the fell of the cloth after each
pick has been inserted, being
attached to the oscillating lay.
(8) It forms a rest for the shuttle
in passing through the shed and
in conjunction with the race plate
guides it from one box to the other. When placed in the
lay the lower edge of the reed rests in a groove and is
securely fastened by means of a strip of wood /. that is
firmly bolted against it, as shown in Fig. 10 {b). The top
of the reed rests in a groove in the reed cap /, that is bolted
to extensions of the lay swords.

19. Shuttle Boxes. — The shuttle boxes, as will be seen
in Fig. 10 {a) and {b), are simply extensions of the lay at
each side of the loom, forming receptacles for the shuttle
during the time that the latter is at rest. In Fig. 12 a per-
spective view of a shuttle box is shown. The bottom of the
shuttle box is a continuation of the race plate, while the
back of the box should conform to the line of the reed.

Fia. 11

^51 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS 31

■ ^51 V

^La^gtoDttom and back of the box are of course station-

^Hmipt the front of the box consiiits of a tnovabte piece of

metal r. known as the binaer, which is pivoted on a pin r, at

the front of the box and is so shaped as to gradually check

the speed of the shuttle as it enters the box; a flat steel

Pig- !!

Turing e^ presses the binder against the shuttle with suffi-
cient force to prevent its rebounding from the box* The
best results are obtained if the binder is so shaped as to be in
contact with the whole of the flat part of the face of the shuttle.

^The binder should not have a sharp swell, since in that case
the shoulder ol the shuttle will become worn by striking it
constantly* nor will the shuttle be checked in the best manner,
20.

AUXILIARY MOnOK6 OF WEATING

I.ET*OFr MOTION

20, The object of the let»off motloti is to allow
the warp to be unwound from the beam as fast as the
doth is woven and yet at all times keep a proper tension on
ihe warp yam. There are two kinds of let-off mechanism
commonly applied to power looms — the {rkiimi ki'&if^

WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS §51

which is applied to the great majority of woolen and worsted
looms and also to a large extent to cotton looms, and the
automatic let-off motion, which is more generally applied to
looms for weaving cotton goods than to those used for

Fig. 13

weaving woolen and worsted fabrics and consequently needs
no further mention.

Fig. 13 is an illustration of the type of friction let-off most
commonly applied to woolen looms. The warp is wound on

§51 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS

the loom beam n, which is constructed with two slightly
flanged beam heads Ut. The beam rests in supports a, at the
back ol the loom on journals cast on the beam heads instead
of on the shaft of the beam, so that the beam will always
turn true, even if the shaft of the beam has become bent
through accident or misuse* The necessary tension of the
warp is obtained by applying friction to the beam headSi
Hrhich is accomplished by means of steel bands / fastened to
studs /'i.

These bands pass entirely around the beam* resting in the
recessed circumference of the beam heads, and are attached
at the other end to a lever i\ fulcrumed on a knife edge at u.
Any amount of friction may be placed on the beam, and
consequently any degree of tension on the warp, by hanging
smtable weights i\ on the ends of the levers /,- A leather
strap is generally riveted to the inside of each stee! friction
hand in order to make the let-off more even and tmiform.
If there is no leather strap on the friction band, a strip of
doth should be w^ound several times around the beam head
between the band and the beam. The height of the lever i,
may be adjusted by means of a threaded bolt /. and nut
attached to the end of the friction band. This is necessary
if the lever touches the beam head.

21. Ratchet Beiiiu Head,— The beam head shown m
Fig, 13 and applied to the loom beams commonly used for
woolen and worsted looms is constructed as followsf
Ratchets tu are securely fastened to the ends of the beam by
iron rods running clear through the beam and by lugs
ecnbedded in the wood. The beam head, on which the fric-
tian band of the let-off motion works, is loose on the shaft
of the beam but is held from turning by means of two
pawls «» fastened to the beam bead and engaging with the
ratchet on the beam. These pawls prevent the beam from
turning forwards and unwinding the warp without turning the
beam head and operatiog the friction; but should the weaver
desire to turn the warp back after picking out or for any
other reason, the loom beam may be readily turned without

34 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS §51

lifting the weights on the let-oflE, the pawls taking up the
required number of teeth in the ratchets. The warp may be
slackened by raising the pawls from contact with the ratchets.

TAKE-UP MOTION

22. The object of the take-up motion is to wind the
cloth over the breast beam and on to the cloth roll as fast
as the filling is inserted and the cloth woven. On looms of
the type under description, the conditional take-up is often
used. In any take-up motion, the speed at which the cloth
is drawn over the breast beam governs the number of picks
per inch that are placed in the cloth; the greater the speed,
the fewer the picks per inch, and vice versa. In the type of
take-up motion known as the conditional, the number of
picks per inch in the cloth depends on the tension of the warp
in weaving, which is governed, by the amount of friction on
the let-off motion and by the position and amount of weight
on the take-up motion.

The take-up motion applied to the cam-loom shown in
Fig. 1 is of the conditional type, the mechanism being as
follows (see Fig. 14): An elbow lever j is fulcrumed on a
stud y. fastened to the frame of the loom; one arm of this
elbow lever carries a sliding weight y,, while the other arm
rests against a pin /, fastened to the lay sword /» of the loc^m.
Attached to this elbow lever is a pawl /» so shaped at one
end as to engage with the ratchet r, which is fastened to a
short shaft carried in a bearing on the frame of the loom.
On the other end of this short shaft is fastened a small
gear r, that engages with a gear r„ which, in turn, engages
with a gear/>i on the cloth roll p of the loom, around which
the woven fabric is wound. As the lay moves backwards,
the pin /. on the lay sword will move the lever j backwards,
thus raising the weight y, and forcing the pawl /» forwards,
so that it will take up a tooth on the ratchet r; as the lay
moves forwards, the pin /, moves from the arm of the lever
and the weight tends to return the lever / to its former posi-
tion, but since the pawl has taken up a tooth on the ratchet,
in so doing it must turn the ratchet and wind the cloth on

§51 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS 35

Pig. M

86 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS §51

the cloth roll. By this means, the cloth is kept at a constant
tension. As more cloth is woven, the weight will drop; but
when it has fallen a sufficient distance for the lever to come
in contact with the pin /, it will be raised again by
the pin and the pawl will take up one or more teeth in
the ratchet. A stationary, or set, pawl r, on a stud in the
frame of the loom engages with the teeth of the ratchet and
prevents the tension of the cloth from pulling the ratchet
around in the opposite direction while the pawl is taking up
more teeth. This is a double pawl so constructed that one
part will rest half way between two teeth when the other part
is engaging a tooth; by this means the ratchet is held from
turning back if it is moved forwards the distance of one-half
tooth. The weight /. slides on an arm of the lever / and is
held in position by means of the rod /,, to which it is pinned.
This rod is connected with a bent rod y* to which a weight or
pad y. resting on the cloth wound on the cloth roll is
attached. The object of this mechanism is to gradually
force the weight toward the end of the lever / as the roll of
cloth grows in diameter, since when the cloth roll is of a
small diameter less power is required to keep the cloth at
the same tension than when the cloth roll grows larger and
the tension of the cloth is acting on a roll of greater diameter.
With a small roll the weight y, will be close to the fulcrum y.
of the lever y, but when a large quantity of cloth is wound
around the roll the weight will assume a position at the end
of the lever, as shown in Fig. 14.

The number of picks per inch in the cloth must be reg-
ulated by experiment; if more picks per inch are desired a
greater tension will be required on the warp, but if less picks
are required the tension of the warp must be reduced. The
tension is regulated by the let-off motion, more weights on
the friction producing greater tension of the warp, and vice
versa. The position of the weight j^ also governs the num-
ber of picks per inch to a certain extent, since if it is pinned
to the rod y, in a hole near the end of the rod it will exert a
greater strain on the cloth roll than if pinned to the rod in a
hole nearer the fulcrum of the lever /•

§51 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS 37

FILLING STOP-MOTION

23. The object of the fllllnfir stop-motion is to stop
the loom if the filling breaks or becomes exhausted; were it
not for this motion the loom would continue to run without
filling being inserted in the warp until this was observed
by the weaver. The type of filling stop-motion applied to
\¥oolen and worsted looms operates in the center of the lay
midway between the shuttle boxes; it is therefore known
as the center stop-motion to distinguish it from a stop-
motion applied to cotton looms, which operates at one side
of the lay between the cloth and the shuttle box.

The Knowles center stop-motion is illustrated in Fig. 15 (a)
and (^), which are views of the mechanism as seen from each
end of the lay. A casting /, fastened to the lay carries a
four-pronged filling fork / so swiveled as to rise and fall in a
vertical plane. Directly under the filling fork a deep slot is
cut in the lay, in which the fork freely falls when a pick of
filling is not in the shed to support it. A dagger socket /,
carrying a dagger /, is swiveled on a part of the same cast-
ing as the filling fork and is connected to it by means of a
rod /i. A casting a, bolted to the breast beam of the loom
carries at its extremity a curved plate w, on which the dag-
ger /, rests and is held by a weak spring t^ that tends to make
it follow the curve of the plate as the lay oscillates. When
the lay moves back, the plate raises the dagger /„ which in
turn operates the rod /» and raises the fork / so that the
shuttle may pass underneath it. If the shuttle leaves a pick
of filling in the shed, the fork will be prevented from enter-
ing the groove in the lay, and as the latter moves forwards
the dagger /, will be held from the plate w and will pass
over the tumbler «, so that the loom will continue to run.
Should the filling be absent, however, the fork will enter the
groove, and as the lay comes forwards the dagger /, will
follow the curve of the plate until it comes in contact with
the end of the tumbler 21, The force of the dagger striking
the tumbler presses the latter forwards and downwards,
and a pin «i attached to it forces down the tumbler finger ^„

Fig. \h

§51 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS 39

which is setscrewed to the shipper shaft A„ thus producing
a sufficient rotary motion of the shaft to disengage the
shipper handle from its notch and allow the loom to stop.
When the loom is stopped and the lay turned back by the
weaver, the filling is apt to get from beneath the filling fork,
and when the loom is started again, if a special device were
not provided, there would be nothing to prevent the dagger
from coming in contact with the tumbler and stopping the
loom on the first pick. This would also occur on the first
pick of the loom, before any filling was inserted in the shed.
The device for preventing this consists of a sliding shield v
fastened loosely to the casting a^ by means of pins z/« that
engage with slots cut diagonally in the shield, so that when
the latter is pushed forwards it will rise and assume the
position indicated by the dotted lines. The shield is pushed
forwards by means of a flat spring z/, attached to a casting v^
setscrewed to the shipper shaft h^. As the shipper shaft is
turned when the loom stops, this spring forces down a pin i\
on the shield tumbler z;», which in turn pushes the shield v
into the position shown by the dotted lines. As the lay
moves forwards on the first pick, the dagger /, will therefore
clear the tumbler u and slide over the top of the shield, even
if no filling is under the fork /. A projection z;. on the shield
is engaged by the dagger after it has passed the end of the
tumbler and the shield is forced back into position, so that
the stop-motion will operate if the filling is absent on any
pick after the first.

24. Setting and Adjustingr the Fillliipr Stop-
Motion. — The curved plate iv should be adjusted by loosen-
ing the bolt that fastens it to the casting «. and setting it
in such a position that when the lay is at the limit of its
backward movement the filling fork / will clear the shuttle
by A inch. The forward end of the curved plate should be
adjusted so that the dagger will just touch the top of the
casting a, before coming in contact with the tumbler ;/.
This space should not be too great, for in this case the
dagger is liable to rebound and miss the end of the tumbler.

:* r -" ^) T' I

40 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS §51

The spring /* should be adjusted by means of a screw /, so
that it will exert only sufficient pressure to cause the
dagger /, to follow the cam and engage the tumbler. The
tension of this spring should not be great enough to cause
the filling to sink into the lay, as this is liable to make kinks
in the filling. With the belt off the loom or the connections
.of the shipper handle with the friction pulley disconnected,
the shipper handle should be thrown on and the casting A,
raised until the tumbler just comes in contact with the pro-
jection Ut on the casting a,. It should be setscrewed in this
position, but care should be taken not to have the connec-
tion too tight, or the loom is liable to be jarred off; that is,
the vibration of the loom will cause the shipper handle to
slip from its retaining notch and stop the loom. When the
shipper handle is thrown on, the casting v, should be
loosened and turned until the pressure of the spring z/, is
just sufficient to raise the shield v to the limit of its move-
ment; the casting should then be tightened in this position.

PROTECTOR MOTION

25. If for any reason the shuttle fails to travel com-
pletely across the race plate and remains in the shed, it is
evident that as the lay moves forwards the shuttle will be
trapped in the shed and the pressure of the lay against it
will result in the warp ends being broken out. Not only is
the shuttle liable to be stopped in the center of the shed, but
sometimes it will fail to be properly boxed and the rear end
will project into the shed so that the lay in beating up will
break the ends of the warp at the edge of the cloth. When-
ever either of these conditions occurs it is known as a smash^
and it is the object of the protector motion to prevent
such smashes. A rod y, Fig. 16 {a) and (b), known as the
protector rod, is supported by bearings fastened to the lay /
and has setscrewed at each end a finger y^ that presses
against the binder e„ of the shuttle box. Two daggers yx
are also secured to the protector rod just in front of the lay
swords; they are designed to engage with the grooved ends

42 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS §51

of the levers y^y the other ends of which are in contact with
the shipper handles A of the loom. A spring y, fastened to
the lay and to a casting y^ setscrewed to the protector rod
tends to keep the fingers j'« constantly pressed against the
binders, and the daggers yt in a raised position. When the
shuttle is properly boxed, it will press the binder e^ out-
wards, in so doing moving the finger y^ through a distance
sufficient to impart a slight rotary motion to the protector
rod y, so that the dagger y, will just clear the grooved end
of the lever y^. If, however, the shuttle fails to reach the
box or fails to enter the box far enough to press out the
binder, the fingers, rod, and daggers will remain undis-
turbed, so that the latter will remain in a raised position,
and as the lay comes forwards, they will engage with the
levers ^., which in turn will force the shipper from its retain-
ing notch and stop the loom, the daggers at the same time
holding the lay so far from the fell of the cloth that it will
not be able to break the warp ends by driving the shuttle
against them. Blocks of rubber are often placed in the rear
of the levers y^ to cushion the blow of the daggers and thus
prevent breaking any of the parts of the loom. When the
shuttle is again placed in the box, all the parts resume their
normal position and the loom is ready to run.

26. Settlnpr the Protector Motion. — When setting
the protector motion, it should first be noticed if the dag-
gers are in line with each other; that is, if both are fastened
to the protector rod in the same relative position. Then the
shuttle should be placed well in the box and the finger on
the protector rod adjusted so that the daggers will pass
about 1 inch below the grooved end of the levers jj'.. The
shuttle should now be placed in the opposite box and the
same operation performed. Then take the shuttle out of
the loom, and pull the lay forwards, noting careiully if each
dagger engages with the grooved lever properly. On some
looms only one dagger is used, which is placed in the
center of the lay, the knock-off lever y^ being made corre-
spondingly longer.

§51 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS 43

SELVAGE MOTION

27. In many cases, the harnesses of a loom are raised in
such a manner that it
is impossible to draw
the selvage ends
through them so as
to produce a good
selvage on the cloth.
When such is the
case, a motion for
operating the selvage
ends independently
of the rest of the warp
is generally applied
to the loom. A com-
mon selvage motion
applied to woolen
and worsted looms
is shown in Fig. 17
and is arranged as
follows: A casting r*
is fastened on the end
of the bottom shaft c
and is provided with
a slot in which a pin r.
is secured. This cast-
ing together with the
pin acts as a crank
and imparts an oscil-
lating motion to an
arm z^ connected with
a crank z^, which in
turn is attached to
the shaft z extending
entirely across the
loom. On the shaft z p»«- i'

two bosses Zi are fastened, one of which operates the selvage

44 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS §51

ends on one side of the loom, and the other the selvage ends
on the opposite side. The selvage heddles z^ are attached
to these bosses by means of straps and hooks, and at the top
similar straps and hooks are led over a roller z^. The action
of the crank gives the shaft z and the bosses z^ a partial rotary
motion that raises and lowers the selvage ends independently
of the rest of the warp. The amount of motion imparted to
the selvage heddles should be so regulated by means of the
pin in the slotted casting c^ that the selvage yam will be
lifted through the same distance as the rest of the warp. In
setting the selvage motion, the loom should be turned over
until the harnesses that are changing are level, and the
selvage ends set level at this point.

TEMPLES

28. In order to hold the cloth to its full width, so that
the contraction due to the interlacing of the filling with the
warp will not reduce the width of the cloth too greatly as
compared with the width of the warp in the reed, thus strain-
ing the selvage ends, the edges of the cloth are passed
through temples, which are devices that not only hold the
cloth to its full width, but also allow it to pass freely to
the cloth roll. Fig. 18 (a) shows a view of a Knowles
temple, consisting of a casting x fastened to a bar x^ that
is carried by brackets a„ a, screwed to the breast beam
of the loom. As shown in the illustration, the bar Xx is
pinned to the bracket a,, while the bracket a^ has a projec-
tion a, that holds the bar x, in position. The spring g, the
tension of which may be adjusted by means of the screw ^t,
tends to force the bar x^ backwards, but at the same time
allows the bar to be forced forwards if the lay of the loom
comes in contact with the temple. This prevents any
damage that might occur if the temple came in contact
with the reed.

The temple consists primarily of a tapering stud ;r„
Fig. 18 {b)y in which a number of grooves, usually five,
seven, or nine, are cut somewhat obliquely; in these grooves

§51 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS 45

46 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS §51

are placed rings x» in which fine pins are inserted, so that
the rings may engage with the cloth and at the same time
be allowed to turn as the cloth passes through the temple.
The stud x\ together with the pin rings is sometimes called
the burr of the temple. The rings near the free end of
the roll are smaller than the others so that they alone will
not hold the cloth nor have a tendency to make holes in the
fabric. As the pin rings x^ are placed obliquely on their
supporting spindle, the effect will be that while each pin is
in contact with the passing cloth it will be moving in a
direction oblique to the center line of the loom, so that
when a pin extracts itself from the cloth it is nearer the
selvage than when it first entered in contact with the cloth.
As all the pins act in the same manner, the combined effect
will be that the cloth, on either side of the loom, will be
pulled outwards and thereby stretched transversely. A
cap jr*, which is shown in a raised position in Fig. 18 (a),
covers the burr and holds the cloth securely in contact with
it, the burr being just beneath the cloth and the cap just
above the cloth.

In order to adjust the temple at any angle on the bar j:,,
a small swivel ;c., shown in Fig. 18 (r), is inserted between
the bar and the casting .r, so that by adjusting the screws x»,
after first loosening the screw jTt, the temple may be set at
any angle and afterwards tightened again. Fig. 18 {a)
shows only one temple, but it should be remembered that
there is one on each side of the loom, so that both edges of
the cloth are held out as nearly as possible to the full width
of the warp in the reed, as shown in Fig. 19, which illus-
trates the method of applying a pair of temples to a loom.
The tension of the spring should always be carefully adjusted
so that the temple will follow the cloth perfectly; that is, as
the lay beats up and forces the fell of the cloth back, some-
times as much as an inch, the temple should recede also the
same distance, and when the pressure of the lay is removed,
it should follow back with the fell of the cloth. If, when the
reed recedes and the fell of the cloth follows it, the cloth
rubs back over the burr, marks or other damages are apt to

48 WOOLEN AND WORSTED CAM-LOOMS §51

be made near the selvage of the cloth. The temples may be
set for any width of cloth by simply loosening them on the
bar Xi and sliding them in or out as may be desired. They
should always be so set as to hold the cloth out as wide as
possible, so that the selvage ends will pass as nearly as
possible in a straight line from the whip roll through the
reed to the edge of the cloth. The temple should also be
set as close to the fell of the cloth as possible, and the
heel of the temple adjusted so that no contact can take
place with the reed, but so that the lay will move the
temple back before it strikes the reed.

PRODUCTION

29. In estimating the production of a loom, a suitable
allowance must be made for the necessary stoppages for
renewing the filling, tying in broken warp ends, cleaning,
and placing new warps in the loom. This allowance must
vary according to the class of goods that is being woven
and the quality of the warp and filling yams. An allowance
of from 10 to 15 per cent, will be found sufficient in most
instances.

To find the production of a loom:

Rule. — Multiply the speed of the loom by the number oi
hours the loom is operated and by 60 {minutes i?i 1 hour).
Divide the product thus obtained by the number of picks per
inch being inserted in the cloth 7nultiplied by 36 (inches in
1 yard). Deduct from this result a suitable allowance for
stoppages.

Example. — A loom is operated 60 hours per week at a speed of
96 picks per minute. If the cloth being woven contains 48 picks per
inch and the loom is stopped 15 per cent, of the time, what is the
production per week?

o 96 picks per min. X 60 hr. X <)0 min. ,^,^ ,

Solution.— — ^- .o ~, — ry-j,— = 200 yd.

48 picks per in. X .% m. ^

15 per cent, of 200 yd. = 30 yd. 200 yd. - 30 yd. = 170 yd. Ans.

WOOLEN AND WORSTED
FANCY LOOMS

(PART 1)

INTRODUCTION

1. Cam-looms, although a very desirable type for weaving
fabrics of simple construction, are not adapted to those of
a more complicated nature. The cams occupy considerable
space, so that the number that can be economically used is
somewhat limited, eight being the largest number that it is
customary to use. Since the number of cams is limited, it fol-
lows that only comparatively few harnesses can be employed,
and consequently only weaves complete on a few ends can be
woven. The construction of a cam-shedding motion also is
such that there can only be comparatively few picks in one
repeat of the weave. It will likewise be seen that in a mill
where a large number of weaves are used and the looms must
constantly be changed from one weave to another, cam-
shedding motions are totally unsuitable, on account of the
Idrge variety of cams that it would be necessary to carry in
stock. The changing of a cam-loom from one weave to
another, moreover, causes considerable trouble and expense.
Because of these difficulties fancy looms having a special
shedding mechanism, generally called a head'7uoiion, are used
for weaving all woolen and worsted fabrics requiring from
8 to 36 harnesses. They are also generally equipped

Ptr noiice of copyright, ue page immediately following the title page

162

91—6

2 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §52

with box motions, whereby more than one shuttle may be
used and, consequently, more than one kind or color of
filling inserted in a fabric.

2. Types of Sheds. — There are three different types
of sheds formed on power looms that control the warp
threads by means of harnesses: (1) the close shed^ (2) the
split shed^ (3) the open shed.

In the close slied, all the harnesses are lowered after
the insertion of each pick so that all the yam is brought in
line with the bottom shed, or rather with the bottom line of
the shed. Although inaccurate, the phrases top shed and
bottom shed are frequently used in a mill. The word shed
really indicates the entire space enclosed by the upper and
lower lines of warp. The expressions top shed and bottom
shed, as commonly used, are ayDreviations for the expres-
sions top line of the shed,\^xi^<bQtt&f)L H^lof the shed, and as
they have become populk#,/<ft»yj wilj'. bfe.ftised in this connec-
tion. In the case of a. close shed each haijness that is to be
raised is lifted from the bottom, to , thus top shed and after
the insertion of a single pick" iK ti'^aifl lo<vered to the bottom
shed. With this method of shedding the harnesses must
make many unnecessary movements, for if a harness is to
be raised for 2 or more picks in succession, it will have
to be lowered and raised again between each pick.

In the split shed, after the insertion of each pick, the
warp is brought level at a point equally distant from the top
and bottom sheds; that is, in the center of the shed. In
this motion also the harness makes many unnecessary move-
ments, for all the harnesses must move froni the center
either to the top or bottom shed at every pick; a harness
that is to be raised for 2 or more picks must be lowered
to the center of the shed and raised again and a harness
that is to be lowered for two or more successive picks must
be raised and lowered between the insertion of eack pick.

In the open shed, the bulk of the warp yarn forms two
stationary sheets at the top and bottom lines of the shed.
There are no unnecessary movements in this method of

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f§o2 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 3

shedding; a harness that is to be raised passes from the

bottom to the top shed, while one that is to be lowered

passes from the top to the bottom shed. Each harness

I remains stationary at either the top or bottom shed until its

H position is required to be changfed. All cam-looms form an

™^ open shed, as does also the Knowles fancy loom because of

the peculiar construction of its shedding mechanism,

P THE KNOWLES FANCY LOOM

3. The Knowles fancj loom, shown in Figs. 1 and 2,
^ the former being a front and the latter a back view, is quite
H similar In general construction to a cam -loom. It is, how-

■ ever, by virtue of the shedding, or head, motion, adapted for
^weaving more complicated fabrics, and in fact W'ill weave
Hanjr woolen or worsted fabric that can be woven with
V harnesses, from the simplest to the most intricate. It is

■ provided with a box motion, so ihi^^yfilKn^ pattern may
be woven, and generally with a brakes- (no t iot^i wh#reby the
loom may be almost instantly brought to rest. The I>icking

—^ motion, although of similar construction to that of the cam*
Bloom, is arranged to operate both picker sticks at each pick, so

that the shuttle may be thrown from either side of the loom,
'as occasion demands* Wlien both picker sticks are thrown
Ban at each pick, the loom is said to be a i>lek-and-plek
Hiaotir* Other points of difference between the fancy loom
Band the cam-loom are in the take-up motion and in various

minor details*

^^^^^ SnEDDINfJ MECHANISM

" 4* A perspective view^ of the Kuowles fancy head-^
motion is shown in Fig. 3, while Fig. 4 is a sectional view^
B showing the essential parts only. The princlpie on which
B this shedding motion operates is as follows: Placed directly
P above and below a number of vibrator gears b are two cylin*
dcr gears a, a, that extend entirely across the head-motion

KNOWI.E3 HEAIKMOTION

4 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS S62

§52 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 6

and have teeth cut on half of their circumferences, the other
half being blank; a rotary motion is imparted to them in the
direction indicated by the arrows. The vibrator gears b, of
which there are as many as there are harnesses to be
operated, are constructed of steel disks about A inch in thick-
ness and have teeth cut on them to mesh with the teeth on
the cylinder gears. On one side of the vibrator gear a blank
space of 1 tooth is left; on the other side, diametrically
opposite, a blank space of 4 teeth is left. The vibrator
gear is free to turn on a pin placed in the end of the vibrator
lever ^t, which is fulcrumed on a rod ^.. A connector ^,
pivoted at a point near the outer edge of the vibrator gear
connects the harness jack c with the gear. A hard steel
"run," or **chill," bn is riveted on the vibrator lever at a point
where it will come in contact with a pattern chain d^ which
is supported by a chain cylinder d.

This pattern chain is constructed, according to the weave
desired in the cloth, of small rolls called risers and washers
called sinkers, which are threaded on spindles connected by
links and held together by cotter pins passed through holes
in their ends. The chain cylinder is rotated so that one bar
of the pattern chain is brought under the runs of the vibrator
levers for each pick of the weave. The action of the
mechanism is as follows: Whenever a roller is brought under
the vibrator lever, the latter is lifted and consequently raises
the vibrator gear pinned to its extremity, thus bringing it in
contact with the top cylinder gear «, which is constantly
rotating. The cylinder gear turns the vibrator gear about
i revolution, or until the blank space of 4 teeth is brought
on top. This movement of the vibrator gear causes the
point to which the connector b„ is connected to move from
one dead center to the other, thus drawing the connector
and jack c in toward the head-motion and raising the
harness, which is attached to the jack as shown by the
dotted lines. It should be noted that this part of the drawing
is not to scale; that is, it is reduced in size as compared with
the shedding mechanism. A small rod r, passing just above
the hubs of the jacks prevents their coming off the rod d

6 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §52

when raising the harness. The vibrator gear continues to
keep the harness raised as long as rollers come under the
run of the vibrator lever, but should a washer be substituted,
the vibrator lever and gear would be lowered, and the latter
coming in contact with the bottom cylinder gear «» would be
turned until the blank space of 4 teeth was at the bottom,
where it would remain until another roller wgs brought up.
This would have the effect of forcing the pin to which the
connector is fastened to the other side of the vibrator gear,
thus forcing the connector and jack toward the loom and
lowering the harness. In Fig. 4 the vibrator gear is shown
in the position it assumes when a washer is brought under
the vibrator lever; the bottom cylinder gear is just starting
to turn the vibrator gear and lower the harness.

There is a semicircular slot in the vibrator gear with which
a steadying pin b^ riveted in the vibrator lever engages. This
pin, together with thdtpgth of the. J?Wt in the viJ)rator gear
governs the extent of movement of the gpar and prevents its
momentum or any other .cause from throwing the gear beyond
the proper stopping place.

5. Tjock-Knlfe. — A device for locking the vibrator
levers in position while the cylinder gears are turning
the vibrator gears, prevents the vibrator gear from being
forced out of contact with the cylinder. This device con-
sists of a loek-knlfe, or long steel blade, r, fastened by
castings r* to a shaft ^, in such a position that it will engage
with the ends of the vibrator levers. The lock-knife not
only locks the vibrator levers that are down, but by coming
between them and the vibrator levers that are raised, locks
every vibrator lever so that the vibrator gears that are
lowered arc held in contact with the bottom cylinder gear,
and those that are raised in contact with the top cylinder *
gear. The lock-knife is moved from contact with the vibra-
tor levers when a new bar of the chain is about to be forced
under them by means of a cam e fastened on the shaft of the
bottom cylinder gear. This cam operates a cam-follower tf,
that is setscrewed to a casting c^ fastened on the shaft ^,.

§52 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 7

A spring e. keeps the cam-follower d in contact with the
cam e at all times.

The timing of the lock-knife is important, since if it were
to remain in contact with the vibrator levers when a riser is
forced under the run, the levers or lock-knife would be bent
or broken. It should be set so as to be just moving from
contact with the vibrator levers when a new bar of the chain
is being forced under the runs. When the cylinder gear
engages the first tooth of the vibrator gear the lock-knife
should have engaged with the ends of the vibrator levers.
The cam e is fastened to the shaft with a pin and is not
movable, but by moving the cam-follower e^ in the casting e^
an adjustment sufficient for timing the lock-knife may be
obtained. If e^ is lowered, the lock-knife will be timed
earlier, and if raised, it will commence to move later.

6. Follovrer licvers. — When this head-motion is run
at. high speed there is some danger of the vibrator gears
rebounding between the twQ cylinder, gcarj?. In order to pre-
vent this there is a separate hamjner',.<)r follower-lever, / for
each connector. This lever Is pVessed on the connector by
a spring /, threaded on a tod passing through a hole in a bar
at the top of the head-motion.. Small. latches, or pawls, /, for
each lever are placed on a rod running across the head, so
that any of these levers may be raised and held away from the
connector by engaging the latch with a notch in the lever.
This is necessary when it is desired to remove the vibrator
lever and connector from the loom for repairs or other pur-
poses, and also when it is desired to run the loom with part of
the vibrators out, in which case the latch will prevent the lever
from dropping down and allowing the rod and spring to fall out.

7. Harness-tievellnj? Device. — With an open-shed
loom it is difficult for the weaver to draw in broken warp
ends, because the heddle eyes are not all on one level. To
obviate this difficulty a harness-leveling device is generally
applied to open shedding motions. This device consists of
an eccentric bar ^located just beneath the vibrator levers and
arranged to be turned on an axis, by means of a handle g^^

8 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §52

in such a manner as to raise all the vibrator levers so
that the vibrator gears will be in contact with the top cylin-
der gear exactly as though risers were brought under each
vibrator lever. After raising the vibrators in this manner,
if the head-motion is moved 1 pick, after disconnecting it
from the rest of the loom, as will be explained later, all of
the harnesses will be raised to the level of the top shed,
thus enabling the weaver to easily draw in any broken ends.

8. Drivlnii: the Head-Motion. — The head-motion is
driven from the crank-shaft of the loom by means of a
gear h^ that engages with a gear //• on a stud, as shown in
Fig. 5. On the side of the gear //, teeth are arranged as for
a bevel gear; these engage with a bevel gear A, that is loose
on the upright shaft h. Motion is imparted to this shaft by
means of a pin //, attached to a loose collar A„ but extending
through a boss //« fastened to the shaft and into a hole in the
gear //,. Fastened to the upright shaft are two bevel
gears //„ //x that mesh with the gears «„ a^, respectively,
setscrewed to the shafts of the top and bottom cylinder
gears a, a^, to which motion is thus imparted. As stated,
this drive is generally from the crank-shaft of the loom, but
on some looms the upright shaft is driven from the bottom
shaft; the arrangement of the gears is practically the same,
however, in each instance.

It very often happens that it is necessary for the weaver
to disconnect the driving mechanism of the head-motion and
turn the hitter by hand, as, for instance, when finding the
correct pick on which to start the loom after a pick-out, etc.
This may be accomplished by means of a handle j bolted
inside the frame of the loom and connected to a yoke y, by
a rod /i and arm /,. The yoke engages with a groove in the
collar ^„ which it raises when the handle j is drawn for-
wards. When the collar //, is raised, it withdraws the pin //,
from contact with the gear h^, which allows the shaft h to
turn loosely and the shedding mechanism to be operated by
means of the hand wheel «., Fig. 6 (a), without interfering
with any other part of the loom.

cir*a

Pio.5

§52 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 11

9, Cliain-Cylinder Drive. — The chain cylinder, which
carries the pattern chain and presents each bar in succession
to the runs of the vibrator levers, is driven from the bottom
cylinder-gear shaft, as shown in Figs. 3 and 6 (a) and (d).
An eccentric gear a^ keyed to the shaft of the bottom cylinder
gear drives an eccentric gear z\ carried on a sliding key /, to
which it imparts a rotary motion. Another gear /, on the
sliding key imparts motion to a gear a,, that is loose on the
shaft of the bottom cylinder gear. A gear a. compounded
with this gear drives a gear d, that is fastened, usually with
a soft setscrew, to the shaft of the chain cylinder d.
Sometimes when the pattern chain is stiff, either because
the chain stuff is new or because the chain is gummed up,
it will gather in a bunch and prevent the chain cylinder
from turning. When this happens the soft setscrew in
the gear d, will break and allow the gear to turn without
imparting motion to the chain cylinder, otherwise a serious
smash would be made in the head-motion, which would
cause extensive repairs, while the soft setscrew can be
easily replaced.

The reason for inserting a pair of eccentric gears a«, /, in
the train that drives the chain cylinder is to secure a variable
motion of the chain. When a new bar is being forced under
the runs of the vibrator levers, the speed of the chain is fast,
so that the bar may come into position as quickly as possible;
but after the bar has raised and lowered the vibrator levers,
so that the vibrator gears are in contact with the cylinder
gears, the motion is very slow, in order to allow the vibrator
gears to be operated and the harnesses changed before the
bar leaves the chain cylinder and another bar is forced in
position.

On some looms the variable motion of the chain cylinder
is not obtained by eccentric gears a^, ;', located in the head
itself, but instead the gears //,, //«, Fig. 5, are made eccentric.
In this case the whole head-motion is eccentric, but when the
motion is geared as shown in Fig. Q{a)an6{d)y the chain
cylinder only has an eccentric movement, the cylinder gears
rotating at a constant rate of speed.

12 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §52

10. Reverse Motion. — There is a device for reversing
the direction of rotation of the chain cylinder, so that the
loom may be turned over by hand and the chain run back-
wards, opening the sheds in reverse order and enabling the
weaver to find the correct pick whenever this has been lost
through the filling running out or a part of the cloth having
been picked out. This is accomplished by means of the
sliding reverse key /, Fig. 6(r), which consists of a round
pin having two projections 2«, /. and a knob head that may be
readily grasped by the weaver when it is desired to reverse
the chain. The projection /* is constantly engaged with a
key way cut in the gear /„ whether the sliding key is drawn
in or out, owing to the width of the gear; it therefore imparts
a constant rotary motion to the key. The projection u may
engage with a keyway in the gear /, if the key is pushed
entirely in, or it may engage with a keyway /, in the gear /,
if the key is drawn entirely out, while if the key is only
partially drawn out this projection will be received by the
cupped end /, of the gear Z, and thus impart motion to neither
gear. When the reverse key i is drawn out as far as it will
go, motion is imparted to the chain cylinder through the
gears «*, /i, /a, ^t, which will turn the chain cylinder in the
opposite direction from its motion during the ordinary run-
ning of the loom, thus enabling the weaver to turn the chain
back by means of the hand wheel ^., after the head-motion
has been disconnected from the driving arrangement. The
gears a„ a„ /, simply revolve loosely during this operation
and have no effect on the driving of the chain whatsoever.

When it is desired to level the harnesses, the driving
mechanism of the head is first disconnected and the key /
then partially drawn out so that the projection ?» just enters
the cupped end /, of the gear /,. The vibrators may now be
raised by means of the leveling bar and the head-motion
turned with the hand wheel ^., which will raise all the
harnesses to the top shed. The chain remains at rest in
this case, because the sliding key i does not impart motion
to either the gear /« or the gear /,; both of these and also
the gears a., a»,^, remain stationary. By this means the

§52 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 13

harnesses may be quickly leveled without losing the pick,
since the pattern chain is not displaced, no matter how the
head-motion is moved.

11. Setting: tlie Reverse Gears. — In placing the gears
of the head-motion together, care should be taken that they
are arranged so that the setting pins will come in the correct
position. These setting pins are small pins inserted in the
mesh between 2 teeth on one gear and engaging with a
hole cut in the center of the tooth of the other gear. This
arrangement is used on gears where it is necessary that
they should be set in a definite relation to each other. It
happens sometimes, however, that the setting pins have
been destroyed and there is no guide to set the gears by.
To set the reverse gears, even if the setting pins are
knocked out, the following method may be employed: Dis-
connect the driving clutch of the loom and turn the head-
motion until the finger that operates the lock-knife is in the
exact center of the cam, and the lock-knife at its farthest
position from the vibrator levers. Then turn the pattern-
chain gear until the vibrator gears are raised so that they
are exactly half way between the top and bottom cylinder
gears. The reverse gears may now be put together with all
the keyways in a straight line so that the reverse key may
be forced in and out without moving the gears in the least.

12. Fast and Sloiv Motion for Chain Cylinders.

Another method of imparting an eccentric movement to the
chain cylinder is shown in Fig. 7. In this method no use
is made of eccentric gears, but instead the characteristic
fast and slow motion of the chain is obtained by a peculiar
construction of the gear d^ on the chain-cylinder shaft. This
gear is constructed with as many sections of teeth spaced
equidistant around its circumference as there are recesses
in the chain cylinder for the reception of the chain bars.
Between each section of teeth is a notch, or cut-out, that is
engaged by a pin k fastened to a plate k\ screwed to the
gear >&,. A mutilated pinion gear k^ is made in one piece
with the plate k^ and contains nine teeth, which mesh with

14 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §52

the sections of 10 teeth in the gear d^; as the gear k,
rotates, therefore, the gear d^ will be alternately driven by
the mutilated pinion ^„ which imparts a very slow motion,
and by the pin k engaging with a cut-out, which imparts a
fast motion to the chain cylinder. When a bar of the chain
is just starting to raise the vibrator levers, the first tooth of
the mutilated pinion should be just commencing to engage

Fig. 7

with a section of the teeth on the gear d^ and the pin should
be moving out of the cut-out; but when the bar of the chain
starts to leave the vibrator levers, the pin should commence
to engage with the next cut-out, while the mutilated pinion
should be just leaving the section of teeth.

The reverse gears are arranged in a slightly different
manner in this arrangement for driving the chain cylinder
than in that previously described. The shaft of the bottom

§52 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 15

cylinder gear a^ is key-seated and carries a sliding reverse
kej' i that has only one projection, which may engage with
either the gear /, or the gear /,. When the key is pushed in
and the loom running in the ordinary manner, the gear </, on
the shaft of the chain cylinder is revolved in the direction of
the arrow, in consequence of being driven through the gears
^, K^ ^4, k^\ but when the reverse key is drawn out so that its
projection engages with the gear /„ it is driven in the reverse
direction by means of gears /, and k^^ the gears k^, ^„ /,
turning loosely.

HARNESS-EVENER MOTION

13. There is often considerable difficulty on broad looms
in strapping the harnesses so that the yarn will be at the
same height in respect to the race plate on each side of the
loom. There is a tendency for the side farthest from the
shedding motion to be lower than the other side; and in some
cases the difference becomes so great as to cause the yarn to
drag on the race plate on one side, while on the other side
it is so high as to give the shuttle an upward tendency when
entering the shed, which is liable to throw it from the loom.
Even if the harness is strapped correctly at first, the strap
operating the farther end of the harness will stretch more
than that operating the nearer end, on account of its greater
length. This difficulty may be confined to only a few har-
nesses, in which case it is more difficult to remedy than if all
the harnesses are affected alike.

In order to prevent this trouble, a special arrangement is
made for connecting the harness to the jack on broad looms,
as shown in Fig. 8. A shaft carrying pulleys having
extended arms /, /, is placed between the two arches of the
loom in the center of the reed space. The arm / has two
hooks, to one of which a strap or wire h attached to the jack
of the shedding motion is fastened, while to the other is
fastened a strap /, passing over the sheave h to the harness.
On the arm /, is a single hook, to which is fastened a strap /,
that passes over the sheave /, and is attached to the other
end of the harness. It will be seen that the arms /, /, form

16 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §62

§52 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 17

a lever, which when turned on its fulcrum, by the shedding
motion acting through /„ will impart an equal movement to
each end of the harness, as the arms are of the same length.
The object of the pulley form of this lever is simply to
strengthen the extended arms, which are subjected to con-
siderable strain in transmitting the motion of the shedding
mechanism to the harnesses. The straps /„ /, being of the
same length, will stretch equally if any stretch takes place.
The sheaves /*, /• are carried on shafts extending across the
two arches and are provided with adjustment screws /, whereby
the sheaves may be raised or lowered should all the harnesses
become too high or too low on either side of the loom.

BUILDING HARNESS CHAINS

14. As has been stated, a harness may be raised on any
pick by placing a roller, or lowered by placing a washer, on
the pattern chain in such a position that it will come under
the vibrator lever governing that harness. Since this is the
case, any harness may be raised and lowered in any order
desired, and any selection of harnesses to be raised on any
pick may be made. The order of lifting and lowering the
harnesses is generally made out by the designer on design,
or point, paper and is known as a pattern-chain draft, or
simply a chain draft. It is the duty of those engaged in
the weave room to build the harness, or pattern, chain
so that the harnesses will be lifted in the manner indicated
by the designer's chain draft.

To illustrate the method of accomplishing this, suppose
that it is desired to build a harness chain so that the har-
nesses will be lifted according to the draft shown in Fig. 9.
This draft consists of filled, or black, spaces, representing a
harness raised, and empty spaces, indicating a harness
lowered. Each horizontal row of squares, or those passing
across the draft, represents 1 pick of the weave, or one bar
of the harness chain; each vertical row of squares corresponds
to a vibrator lever and the harness controlled by it and
shows the manner of lifting that harness. Thus, if it is
desired to raise any particular harness on any pick, a mark
91— «

18 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §52

is placed on the vertical row of squares corresponding to

that harness and on the pick on which it is desired to lift the
harness. It will be seen* therefore ^ that the horizontal rows
of squares indicate the harnesses that are raised or low^ered
on each successive pick, while the vertical rows of squares
represent on what picks each individual harness is to be
raised and lowered. Usually, instead of filling in the squares,
the designer simply marks the squares with a cross or dot.

/^ th IHck

J si Pick

FlG.f

When building a pattern chain, it is important to know
which is the first pick of the draft and which vertical row of
squares represents the first, or front, harness. This is
usuallv indicated on the draft by the designer in some
arbitrary manner, sometimes by placing a cross at the comer
of the draft. If not indicated* it is safe to assume that the
horizontal row of squares at the bottom represents the first
pick and the vertical row of squares at the left the manner
of operating the iirst harness at the front of the loom. The
pattern chain must be so built that the bar representing thej

§52 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 19

first pick will be the first to be presented to the chain cylin-
der and the sinkers or risers operating the first harness will
be at the front of the loom.

Shedding mechanisms are sometimes placed on the right-
hand side of the loom and sometimes on the left, and in
building pattern chains for looms in which the construction
of the pattern chain is not such that it will permit both sides
to run on the chain cylinder, these points must be taken into
consideration. In building pattern chains for the Knowles
head-motion, or for any similar shedding mechanism in
which the construction of the pattern chain is such that
either side may be run on the chain cylinder, it is not neces-
sary to take so many precautions. In this case all that is
necessary is to read the chain draft and build the chain from
left to right. It makes no difference whether the bottom
horizontal row of squares of the chain draft representing the
first pick is the first bar of the chain built and the next to
the bottom the second bar, etc. since the pattern chain for a
Knowles loom may be reversed end for end. Fig. 10 shows
the chain built after this manner for the draft in Fig. 9 in
the position it would be when placed on the loom, and as
shown is arranged to be applied to a loom with the head-
motion on the right-hand side; but if desired to be placed on
a loom with the head-motion on the left, all that would be
necessary would be to turn the chain over and run the other
side to the chain cylinder. It will be readily understood that
the above statements in regard to building chains for the
Knowles loom are correct if the construction of the chain
vs remembered. This construction, with circular rollers
threaded on round spindles, is such that there is no right
side to the chain, and the back may be used for the front
or the front for the back, the chain being placed on the loom
in any desired position. It will be noted particularly, how-
ever, that the chain must be placed on the loom in the
correct position so that the bar representing the first pick
will be first presented to the vibrator levers and the bar rep-
resenting the second pick next brought under them, etc. The
construction of the chain shown in Fig. 10 should be noted.

M Bm

imk Ba

§52 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS ' 21

BOX MOTION

15. The gjeat majority of the looms employed in weav-
ing woolen and worsted fabrics, and especially those in which
fancy patterns are developed, are what are commonly known
as 4 X 4 pick-and-pick looms; that is, there are four shuttle
boxes on each side of the loom and each picker stick is thrown
in at every revolution of the crank-shaft. By this arrange-
ment it is not only possible to operate more than one shuttle
(which is impossible with a single-box loom) , but it is possible
to drive the shuttle from either side of the loom at any pick,
thus allowing a single pick of any color of filling to be*
inserted in the cloth. This latter is impossible with that
type of looms having movable boxes on one side only and a
single fixed box on the other — known as 4 X 1, 6 X 1 looms,
etc. — since the shuttles must always come to rest on the box
side of the loom and any shuttle can therefore place only an
even number of picks in the cloth.

The object of the box motion is to allow shuttles carrying
different kinds or colors of filling yarn to be presented to the
picker in a definite order of rotation so that the required
filling pattern will be woven into the cloth. There are two
types of box motions — the rotary and the drop-box motions,
the latter being by far the more widely used and in fact the
only motion applied to American-built looms. In a drop-box
loom a nvmiber of shuttle boxes are constructed one above
the other and placed at one or both ends of the lay, being
operated by a suitable mechanism so that any box may be
raised or lowered until it becomes level with the race plate
and the shuttle that it contains is in position to be operated
on by the picker.

16. The Knowles 4x4 box motion, which is applied to
the fancy loom shown in Figs. 1 and 2, raises and lowers the
boxes of the loom by means of a simple mechanism; the
desired motion is obtained by means of cylinder gears and
vibrator gears in exactly the same manner as the harnesses
are operated. Fig. 11 is a perspective view of the box

22 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §52

motion as seen from the rear of the loom. Four vibrator
gears ^. are placed between two cylinder gears a^, a» that are
setscrewed to the harness cylinder gears a, <i,, the ends of
the latter being recessed so that the box cylinder gears may

Fig. 11

be inserted in them for a distance of 2 or 3 inches, see
Fig. 6 (a). By fastening the box cylinder gears in this
manner, it is possible to change their position in relation to
the harness cylinder gears so that the boxes can be made to

&52 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 23

operate earli^ or later with reference to the shed. The
vibrator gears have vibrator levers ^, and connectors
w, i«i, »i„ »i, and are operated by a box chain built of risers
and sinkers in exactly the same manner as the harness chain,
except that it is narrower, being only wide enough to carry
four rollers or washers to operate the four box vibrator
levers. The mechanism is so connected to the boxes that
the two vibrators on the right of a person standing at the
side of a loom and facing the head-motion operate the boxes
on the right-hand side of the loom, while the two vibrators
on the left operate the boxes on the left-hand side. Of each
of these two the outside vibrators, to which the connectors
w,w, are fastened, are arranged to raise the boxes on
their respective sides of the loom the distance of one box,
while the inside vibrators, to which the connectors wi,, w,
are attached, will raise the boxes the distance of two boxes.
If both vibrators that operate the boxes on one side of the
loom are raised, so that the connectors wi, w, or w,, ;«, are
operated, the boxes on that side of the loom will be raised
the distance of three boxes, or from the first to the fourth,
but if both are left down the first bv^x will be level with the
race plate. This is not due to any difference in the length
of the throw of the connectors, but to the method of opera-
ting the lifting chains m^, wi. that transmit the motion of the
vibrators to the boxes on each side of the loom.

In explaining the method of accomplishing this, reference
will be made to the method of operating the chain w. that
operates the boxes on the right-hand side of the loom, since
the chain w* is operated in exactly the same manner by the
two vibrators on the left. The chain w. is attached to a
lever n fulcrumed on a stud «,. and also attached to the con-
nector m. If the vibrator gear to which m is fastened is
raised by a roller on the box chain, it will come in contact
with the top cylinder gear a, and receive a half revolution,
thus drawing in the connector ;;/ and the top of the lever ;/
and, as the chain is attached to this lever, raising the boxes.
The distance that the chain is moved in this instance will be
exactly enough to give the boxes a lift of one box. Suppose,

24 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §52

however, that the second vibrator gear, which is fastened
to the connector Wi, is raised, the connector m^ will draw
in the top of the lever «„ which is fulcrumed at ;/, and carries
a loose flange pulley ;/* around which the box chain is passed.
This motion of the lever ;/, will have the effect of forcing out
the pulley w* and giving the box chain and boxes just twice
the lift that was given in the former case. It will be readily
seen that if both vibrator gears were raised, the boxes would
receive the combined lift of both levers, or three boxes. Since
the boxes on the other side of the loom are operated in the
same manner, it will be seen that any one of the four boxes
on either side may be called to the race plate by placing
proper risers and sinkers on the box chain. There is a sepa-
rate lock knife c^ fastened on the same shaft as the lock knife
for the shedding mechanism, for the purpose of locking the
box vibrator levers while the vibrator gears are being turned
by the cylinder gears. Each box vibrator connector is pro-
vided with a hammer, or follower lever, /, exactly the same
as those used in the shedding motion, to prevent the vibrator
gears from rebounding.

As previously stated, the motion of the box levers is com-
municated to the boxes by the lifting chains v;/*, w., which
pass over idle pulleys Wn, Fig. 2, and are connected to the
boxes as shown in Fig. 12. It will be noted that although
the connections between the box levers and the boxes are
spoken of as chains, they really consist of chains combined
with rods wherever it is not necessary for the chain to run
over a pulley. Both lifting chains w*, ;;/» are brought to the
front of the loom around two pulleys w«, from which the chain
for the boxes on the right passes over pulleys ;;/,, ;;/«, while
the chain for the boxes on the left passes over a pulley w„
across the loom just beneath the lay, and over a pulley w,*.
The boxes o arc free to move in a vertical direction between
guides at the ends of the lay, and at the bottom of each set
of boxes a lifting, or box, rod ^, is fastened. The box chain
is fastened to a casting o^ that is loose on the lifting rod, and
the boxes are supported on a strong spring Ot resting on this
casting. The object of connecting the box chains to the

26 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §52

boxes in this manner is to prevent any breakage, since if
the boxes become caught or the picker does not get back
far enough to clear the slot in the box before the latter com-
mences to lift, the spring will be compressed.

17. While the shedding motion is positive, raising and
lowering the harnesses, the box motion is non-positive,
simply raising the boxes. The boxes are lowered by their
own weight aided by a spring (?, on a rod o^ that is fastened
to the lay at its upper end, while its lower end extends through
a casting o. setscrewed to the lifting rod. As the boxes are
raised the spring is compressed, and as the vibrator slackens
the chain when the box is to be lowered the spring aids the
weight of the boxes in bringing them down. It will also be
seen that there would be some liability of the boxes rising
slightly above the race plate and falling back again when
lifted if it were not for this spring, which prevents vibration
of the boxes and makes their motion smooth and reliable.

MUL.TIPL.1EK

18. When a large number of picks of one color are to be
inserted in a fabric, it is of great advantage if a loom
is equipped with some mechanism whereby the box chain
can be stopped for a certain length of time, holding the
boxes stationary while those picks are being placed in the
cloth. Such a mechanism is known as a multiplier
motion, since it does away with the necessity of building
long and heavy box chains, by multiplying the number of
picks that certain bars will place in the cloth.

The Knowles multiplier is shown in Fig. 13. The box
chain is carried on the box-chain cylinder </*, which is
fastened to a sleeve d^ loose on an extension d^ of the shaft
of the harness-chain cylinder; a star gear d^ is also fastened
to this sleeve. Another sleeve /, which also is loose on the
shaft fl^,,. carries another star gear/, and the multiplier-chain
cylinder/,. Two sliding pieces q, r are placed on a sleeve j,
on a stud s. The sleeve 5, is driven from the gear a^ by
means of a gear ^lo, Fig. 1, a shaft ^,, extending across the

§52 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 27

head» a gear ^i,, and a gear 5» fastened to the sleeve. This
sleeve is geared so that ft makes one revolution at each pick
d! the loom, and the sliding pieces q^ r are keyed to it so as
to have a rotary motion imparted to them by the shaft and
still be capable of being slid along the shaft so that the
pins ^M Ti will engage with or be disengaged from the star
gears* This lateral motion of the sliding pieces is obtained
by means of two yokes q^, r» that engage with grooves in
them and are setscrewed to two sliding rods 5?,,^. The

Fig. VA

sliding rod r/, is operated by means of a rod d^ and a lever d^
engaging with a notched piece on the end of the rtid. The
rod //t is raised by means of a long spindle with which each
bar of the box chain that is to be multiplied is built, as shown
in Fig, 16; iliis spindle is forced under the run of a lever to
which the rod is attached, when that bar of the chain is
brought under the vibrator levers of the box motion.
It should be particularly noted that only those bars of the
box chain that are to be multiplied are built with the long

28 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §52

spindle, bars that are not to be multiplied being built with a
spindle only sufficiently long to pass through the links that
hold the chain together. The rod r, is operated by a lever ^4
and a rod p^ that is connected to a lever, shown in Fig. 2,
operated by risers on a multiplier chain placed on the
multiplier-chain cylinder p^. The multiplier chain, shown in
Fig. 17, is built of spindles joined by links exactly the same
as the box and pattern chains, except that the multiplier chain
is only wide enough to contain one riser for raising the rod.
It may be built in any manner that is desired, the number of
bars indicating the number of picks that will be placed in the
cloth before the boxes will change again; for instance, if the
multiplier chain is made with five sinkers and one riser,
6 picks will be placed in the cloth before the box chain
moves; if built with nine sinkers and one riser, 10 picks will
be inserted, etc.

19. The action of the multiplier is as follows: After the
box and multiplier chains have been built they are placed on
their respective cylinders. Each bar of the box chain that
is to be multiplied is built with a long spindle projecting
under the lever that raises the rod d,. Suppose that the
multiplier chain is built with nine sinkers and one riser so
that it will multiply the bar of the box chain ten times.
During the ordinary running of the box chain, it is driven
so that one bar is moved under the box vibrator levers at
each pick of the loom by means of the pin 7\ that is fastened
to the sliding piece r on the shaft and engages with the
cut-outs in the star gear ^/.. While the box chain is in
operation, the riser on the multiplier chain remains station-
ary directly under its vibrator lever, so that the rod p^ that
is attached to this lever will remain in its highest position
and keep the pin r, in contact with the star gear d^. When
a bar having a long spindle is brought up, the end of the ^
spindle raises the rod ^/,, which throws the pin ^, on the
sliding piece q into the cut-outs of the star gear ^„ thus
starting the multiplier chain. At the same time, the riser
on the multiplier chain moving from under the lever that

§52 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 29

holds up the rod /, allows the spring /, to pull down the rod
and disengage the pin r» that has been driving the box chain.
The loom now runs 10 picks (or any other number, according
to how the multiplier chain is built) with one bar of the box
chain under the box vibrator levers. When the riser on the
multiplier chain comes around again, the rod /a is raised and
the pin r, being thrown in contact with the star gear d. starts
the box chain again; at the same time, the rod d^ being low-
ered as the lever passes off the end of the long spindle allows
the spring d^ to pull the pin ^, from contact with the star gear^,
and stop the multiplier chain. The loom will now continue
to run and the box chain to revolve in the ordinary manner
until another bar built on a long spindle is brought around.

TIMING THE BOX MOTION

20. To time the box motion, the lay is first brought for-
wards so that the dagger of the protector motion is up to the
frog under the breast beam. Have the clutch at the bottom
of the upright shaft locked and loosen the setscrews that
fasten the small spur gear to the crank-shaft of the loom.
Arrange the box motion so that the boxes will receive their
full lift, that is, from the first to the fourth box; then turn
the head-motion forwards by means of the crank on the top
cylinder-gear shaft until the boxes rise so that when there is
no shuttle in the top box the binder of the second box will
just touch the protector finger, which should raise the box
about 4 inch. This times both the box and harness motions,
but if at any time it is desired to change the timing of the
shedding motion so that the harnesses will start earlier or
later with reference to the box motion, it is simply necessary
to loosen the setscrews in the harness sections of the cylinder
gears and turn them forwards or backwards, taking care that
the same change is made in both the top and bottom cylinder
gears; that they always stand in the same relative position; and
that the starting teeth always engage the teeth of the vibrator
gears at exactly the same time. This does not disturb the
box motion in any way and no further adjustment is necessary.

30 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §52

I^EVELING THE BOXES

21. In leveling boxes on a Knowles 4x4 loom, it is
best to first level all the boxes on one side of the loom
before beginning on the boxes on the other side. The
method usually adopted is to begin with the boxes on the
head end of the loom. The method of procedure is as fol-
lows: First bring the top, or first, box exactly level with
the race plate by adjusting it with the nuts wij„ Fig. 12, on
the small wrought-iron rod, which is riveted to the end of
the chain nu near the lower end of the box rod. Then move
the boxes from the first to the second box by raising the
lever n. Fig. 11. Loosen the nut that holds the end of the
chain ;;/. in place in the slot ;/. in the lever ;/ and adjust the
second box by raising or lowering the end of the chain in
the slot, according to whether more or less motion is
wanted. Then bring the first box level with the race plate
again, as the adjustment of the second box may have thrown
out the first box a trifle. Keep moving the boxes from the
first to the second until both are exactly right; then move
from the first to the third by raising the lever ;/, and adjust
the third box by loosening the setscrew ;/. and moving up or
down the upper arm of the lever until the box is level.
Keep moving the boxes from the first to the third until both
are exactly right, since the adjustment of the third box may
have thrown out the first. Next raise both levers together
for the fourth box. If the other boxes are right, the fourth
box should be level with the race plate without further
adjustment. If not, the motion of the boxes may have to
be divided a little. A very slight change in the lever w, that
brings the third box level with the race plate will be found to
make a considerable difference. The boxes on the opposite
side of the loom are adjusted in exactly the same way by
making similar adjustments on the levers that operate them.

In leveling the box, it will save considerable time to put
on a box chain built especially for this purpose so that it will
be only necessary to move the box-chain cylinder a bar or
two in order to get the box desired.

§52 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 31

Sometimes the chain that connects the boxes with the box
mechanism becomes worn in some places more than others
on the side that runs on the gliding sheave pulleys. When
this is the case, difficulty is sometimes experienced in level-
ing boxes; in such cases, it is well to take off the chain and
turn it over, letting the other edge run on the pulleys.

BUILJ3ING BOX CHAINS

22. In building box chains for pick -and -pick looms,
that is, looms in which both picker sticks are thrown in at
each pick, considerable care must be exercised in order to
prevent smashes. For instance, if the chain were built so
that boxes containing shuttles were presented to both pickers
at the same time, the result would be that the shuttles would
meet in the shed, where one would probably be deflected,
and flying from the loom would be liable to break out the
warp or do other damage. Sometimes both shuttles will
strike each other squarely and stop dead in the shed; in this^
case the protector usually stops the loom so as to prevent a
smash, but the shuttle points are usually so badly battered
as to render it necessary to have them ground down.
Should the protector fail to work in a case like this, the
worst smash possible will result, since the warp will be
broken out for a distance equal to the length of two shuttles.
Therefore, it will be seen that in building box chains for
pick-and-pick looms it is of vital importance to have an
empty box on one side of the loom at each pick. In cases
where five and six shuttles are run in looms having only
four boxes on each side the difficulty of arranging the box
chain so as to accomplish this will be recognized, since there
can be, in the case of five-shuttle work, only three empty
boxes, and with six shuttles only two empty boxes. Care
should also be taken to build the box chain so that there will
be as few jumps, that is, movements of two or more boxes, as
possible, as this places undue strain on the loom and causes
it to absorb more power. Jumps or drops of two boxes,
that is, from the first box to the third or the second to the

32 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §52

fourth or vice versa, are not too hard on the loom and in
buildiiig many box chains must be used, but jumps from the
first to the fourth or drops from the fourth to the first box
should always be avoided, and in the great majority of
filling drafts there is no necessity for them. If a movement
of two boxes must be made, it is always better to arrange
the chain so that a drop will be made rather than a jump.

23. To illustrate the method of building a box chain,
suppose that it is desired to build a box chain to operate five
shuttles in a Knowles 4x4 loom, the colors to be placed in
the cloth after the manner indicated by the filling draft in
Fig. 14. The best method of building a chain and a method
that will not render mistakes liable to occur is to rule two
sets of squares as shown in Fig. 15, each set to contain as
many vertical rows as there are boxes on that side of
the loom. The set of squares on the left in Fig. 15 repre-
sents the boxes on the left of the loom, while that on the

Mm^

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Fig. 14

right represents the boxes on the right of the loom. The
vertical rows in each set are numbered at the top to represent
the boxes; thus, the vertical row of squares in the set of
squares on the left, marked 1, represents the top, or first, box
on the left of the loom, while the vertical row in the set of
squares on the right, marked 2, represents the second box
on the right of the loom, etc. The colors of filling carried
by the shuttles are indicated by their initial letters. If more
convenient a piece of design paper may be used, but in
either case it is desirable to leave a sufficient space between
the two sets of squares for representing the box chain, which
will also reciuire four vertical rows of squares.

When starting the chain, any color may be placed in any
box, but it is always best to place them so that the chain can

§52 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 3J>

be made with as few jumps as
possible. As shown in Fig. 15,
the shuttle that carries the red
filling has been placed in the
first box on the left-hand side
of the loom and the brown in
the second box. On the other
side of the loom the orange has
been placed in the first box, the
fawn in the third, and the green
in the fourth. Referring to
Fig. 14, it will be seen that the
pattern first calls for 4 picks of
red to be placed in the cloth.
' The shuttle that contains the red
is therefore passed across the
loom from the first box on the
left-hand side to the second box,
which is the only empty box on
the other side, and back again
four times, working from the
top of the vertical rows of
Squares downwards and utili-
sing as many horizontal rows of
Squares as there are picks in-
serted, in this case 4. This is
indicated by the crosses on
^he squares representing those
lx>xes, each horizontal row of
Siquares representing 1 pick. It
>vill be noticed that the square
in which the shuttle was left
after the 4 picks had been in-
serted is marked R. This must
be done with each color, since
it affords a means of quickly
telling in which box each color
was left and prevents arranging

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Pio.15

34 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §52

for another shuttle to be thrown into that box. Next, 8 picks of
brown are inserted, the shuttle passing back and forth between
the second boxes on each side, and so on, each color being
called according to the filling draft. The crosses indicate
the box into which the shuttle is thrown at the completion of
each pick with the exception that whenever a new color is
introduced a cross is plax^ed on the first pick of that color in
the square representing the box that the shuttle starts from,
as well as in the square representing the box that the shuttle
enters at the completion of the pick. For instance, on the
first pick of the draft, where red begins, a cross is placed in
the square representing the first box on the left, where the
shuttle starts,-as well as in the square representing the second
box on the right, where the shuttle rests at the completion of
the pick. In the same way on the fifth pick, which is the first
pick of brown, crosses are placed to indicate the box from
which the shuttle starts and the box in which it rests after
that pick. An important point to be noted is that when the
draft is completed all the shuttles must be left in the boxes
in which they started, even if it is necessary to build a repeat
of the chain; otherwise a smash is sure to occur. It will
be noted that in Fig. 15 there are no jumps or drops, the
shuttles on either side moving only one box between any
colors, and also that the colors are all left in the boxes
in which they started.

24. Having worked out a good system of operating the
boxes, it is a comparatively easy matter to arrange the box
chains to lift the desired boxes. This may be done on four
vertical rows of squares between those representing the
boxes at each end of the loom. It will be assumed that the
first vertical row of squares at the left on which the box
chain is to be shown represents the vibrator lever that raises
the second box on that side of the loom and the second lever
raises the third box. For the boxes at the other side, the
first lever at the rig^ht will raise the second box and the
second lever from the right the third box. It will be
remembered that two washers operating both levers that

§52 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 35

g^overn the boxes on either side will call the first
box on that side and that two rollers will call the
fourth box on that side. Each horizontal row of
squares across the box chain represents a pick of
filling: or one bar of the box chain; consequently,
to indicate how the box chain is to be built, it is
simply necessary to indicate what levers are to be
raised in order to call the boxes indicated on the
drafts at each side, ^y instance, on the first
4 picks the second box on the right and the first
l)ox on the left are called; on the next 8 picks the
crosses indicate that rollers must be placed on the
chain to call the second boxes on each side, and so
on. When building the chain it should be noted,
which box vibrators operate the boxes on each
side of the loom, and care should also be taken
when placing the shuttles in the loom to start them
on the proper side and in the proper boxes; other-
wise a smash cannot be avoided.

25. Multiplier. — By referring to the filling
draft in Fig. 14 it will be seen that a 4-pick multi-
plier (that is, one built with every fourth bar a
riser) will save the most bars. Therefore, in every
Part of the box chain where there are four succes-
sive bars calling the same boxes, only one is neces-
sary, this being threaded on one of the long mul-
tiplier bars. Fig. 16 shows the appearance of the
Completed box chain for the draft in Fig. 14, and
Pig. 17 shows the multiplier chain that would be
Used. Two repeats of the latter, as shown, would
be necessary in order to encircle the multiplier-
Qhain cylinder on the loom. It will be noted that
if this chain were to be built without utilizing the
rnultiplier motion, or for a loom without a multi-
plier motion, as many bars would be required as
there are picks in the pattern, in this case fifty-six
bars; but by building the short multiplier chain,

Fi<;. ic

36 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §52

Fig. 17, the boxes may be operated by a box chain of only
thirty-two bars, as shown in Fig. 16. On many patterns the
amount of labor saved in building the box
chain would be much greater than in this par-
ticular case.

PICKING MECHANISMS

EQUALLY AND UNEQUALLY GEARED
PICKING MOTIONS

26. The picking motion on box looms hav-
ing drop boxes on each end of the lay is gen-
erally arranged to operate both pickers at each
revolution of the crank-shaft, so that the shuttle
may be thrown in either direction on any pick.
There are two methods employed to accomplish
this result.

In the first method the crank- and bottom-
shaft gears are made with the same number of
teeth, so that the bottom shaft will make a rev-
olution to each revolution of the crank-shaft.
In this case both pick balls are fastened on the
P^oi7 same side of the bottom shaft, and both will
consequently strike their respective picking shoes simul-
taneously. Looms having this arrangement are known as
equally geared looms.

In the second method the gear on the bottom shaft has
twice as many teeth as the gear on the crank-shaft, so that
the former makes only 1 revolution while the latter makes
two. In order to throw each picker stick in at every revolu-
tion of the crank-shaft, it is necessary in this case to have two
pick balls on each side of the loom. These, of course, are set
diametrically opposite each other, so that one ball on each
side of the loom will throw each picker stick in at every half
revolution of the bottom shaft. Looms having this arrange-
ment are known as iiiieqiially goarocl looms.

Aside from the arrangement of the gearing and pick balls
there is no other difference in the picking motions of equally

§52 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 37

and unequally geared looms except in the shape of the picking
shoe. In the former case, the picking shoe has a slow, easy
curve, owing to the speed at which the pick ball moves, but
in the latter case the picking shoe has a sharper and quicker
curve, so that the slower speed of the pick ball may impart
a blow of sufficient strength to throw the shuttle across the
loom.

For very broad looms, the equally geared picking motion
is to be preferred, since the greater speed of the pick ball
enables a greater impulse to be imparted to the shuttle by
means of a properly shaped shoe, but for narrow looms the
unequally geared motion gives a smooth, steady pick, pro-
vided that both pick balls are equidistant from the center of
the bottom shaft. If an unequally geared loom has only
one pick ball on each side, it is not a pick-and-pick loom, but
is known as an alternate pick loom. In this case the
pick balls must be set diametrically opposite each other so
that the picker sticks will work alternately, one being thrown
in on one pick and the other on. the next, and so on. This
^notion is generally used on single-box looms.

SLIIIINO PICK MOTION

27, Many Knowles pick-and-pick looms are equipped
with the slldlnfjc pick arrangement, which is a mechanism
applied to the picking motion by means of which it is pos-
sible to operate the picker sticks alternately, either stick
being thrown in for one or as many picks as desired, while
the other remains at rest. For instance, suppose that four
shuttles are to be thrown from one side of the loom to the
other in succession; with the sliding pick arrangement this
side of the loom can be made to pick four times while the
picking motion on the other side of the loom remains at rest
for an equal number of picks. Or, on the other hand, sup-
pose that one shuttle is to he thrown back and forth across
the loom for a number of picks, the picking motion on each
side of the loom can be made to operate alternately. No
matter how the filling pattern is arranged or at which side of

38 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §52

the loom the next shuttle to be picked is at rest, with this
motioa it is only necessary on any pick to operate the pick-
ing motion on the samQ side of the loom as the shuttle that
is to be thrown, leaving the other picking motion at rest.
By this means not only is the amount of wear and tear on
the picking motions reduced by one-half, but the liability of
bad shuttle smashes is also eliminated, since when only one
picker stick is in operation, it is impossible for two shuttles
to meet in the center of the shed.

An illustration of the sliding pick mechanism as arranged
for an unequally geared loom is shown in Fig. 18 {a). The
picking balls ^,, ;/, are mounted on arms ^«, w, loosely sup-
ported on the bottom shaft of the loom, but having the
characteristic rotary motion imparted to them by means of
projections ^., ;/, that extend into slots in the castings k., «„
Fig. 18 (d), keyed to the bottom shaft. The hubs of the
arms that support the pick balls are grooved so as to be
engaged by yokes r*, r. connected by a rod r,. The yoke r«
forms part of an elbow lever/,, which when raised will throw
the casting k^ and pick balls k, directly over the picking
shoe kio, thus imparting motion to the picker stick on that
side of the loom, and at the same time, by means of the
rod r., will draw the casting n^ and pick balls w, from the
picking shoe ;/io, so that the pick balls, although still revolv-
ing, will not impart motion to the shoe and picker stick on
that side of the loom. When the lever /, is depressed, the
motion will be reversed and the loom will pick from the
other side, while the picking motion that was previously in
operation will remain at rest. Motion is imparted to this
mechanism by means of an extra, or fifth, vibrator gear d,
placed between the box-motion cylinder gears a,, a» of the
head-motion. This vibrator gear is operated by risers or
sinkers placed on the box chain so as to raise or lower
the vibrator lever ^„ and imparts motion to the connector ^,.,
which is connected to one arm of an elbow lever j\; a cast-
ing j\ is fastened to the other arm of the elbow lever j\ and
supports a rod /« connected to the previously mentioned
elbow lever j\. By means of this arrangement, a riser on

§52 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 39

40 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §52

the chain will throw the picking motion in on one side and
out on the other, while a sinker on the chain will reverse the
action. The rod /. is not fastened in a fixed position to the
casting: /., but passes through a hole in the same and is held
in position by two springs /„/, and adjustable collars /xc/xt.
This makes an elastic connection in each direction that wili
prevent any breakage of the parts in case the motion is
operated when the loom is stopped with the bottom shaft
in such a position that the pick ball will strike against the
side or edge of the picking shoe.

TAKE-UP MECHANISMS

THE RATCHET RING TAKE-UP MOTION

28. Fancy woolen and worsted looms are sometimes
equipped with positive and sometimes with conditional take-
up motions. The take-up motion applied to the loom shown
in Fig. 2 and illustrated in detail in Fig. 19 is known as the
ratchet ring take-up motion and may be arranged as
either a positive or a conditional motion, as desired.

When this style of take-up motion is employed, the cloth
passes from the breast beam around the take-up roll v, over
a loose iron roll v^, and is finally wound on the cloth roll w.
The loose roll v^ is for the purpose of leading the cloth
around the take-up roll so that a greater surface of the latter
will be presented to the cloth. The take-up roll is wound
spirally with a strip of thin sheet steel about 2 inches in
width punched full of small holes. It is applied to the
take-up roll with the rough side out and thus presents a
rough, serrated surface that firmly grips the cloth, so that
the latter is pulled down over the breast beam positively
at a speed depending on the amount of motion imparted to
the roll by the take-up mechanism; thus, the speed of the
take-up roll governs the picks per inch in the cloth. For
light fabrics a take-up roll covered with coarse sandpaper is
generally used, since a perforated steel-covered roll would
be too harsh and would be liable to damage the fabric.

42 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §62

A roll covered with sandpaper, however, is not suitable for
heavy fabrics, since it does not grip the cloth suflSciently to
prevent slippage.

Motion is imparted to the take-up roll by means of a
slotted disk / that is fastened to the crank-shaft of the
loom. A casting /, is fastened eccentrically to this slotted
piece and has setscrewed to it a rod u known as the pitman
rod. A pawl «, bolted to the end of the pitman rod engages
with the teeth of the ratchet «* fastened to a short shaft car-
ried in a bearing in the frame of the loom. On the other end
of this shaft is fastened a gear //. that drives the gear z/, on
the take-up roll through the gears i/., Ui. As the crank-shaft
of the loom revolves, the pitman, being fastened eccentrically
to the slotted casting, is worked forwards and backwards,
and the pawl engaging with the teeth of the ratchet imparts
motion to the same, which is transmitted by the train of
gears previously mentioned to the take-up roll, thus drawing
the cloth over the breast beam at a uniform rate of speed.
During the backward movement of the pitman arm, the
ratchet is prevented from moving back by a double set pawl
constructed in two parts 7/., 7/,. When one of its parts is
engaged with a tooth of the ratchet, the other will rest
exactly half way between 2 teeth; by this means the ratchet
is prevented from turning backwards if it is thrust forwards for
the space of i tooth, since one or the other of the parts of
the set pawl will then engage with a tooth of the ratchet.

By means of the slotted casting / the amount of eccen-
tricity may be so varied that the motion imparted to the
pitman arm will be sufficient to move the ratchet so that the
set pawls will take up one, two, or in some cases where a
ratchet with a large number of teeth is used, three or four
teeth. The gearing driving the take-up roll is so reduced
that when the throw of the pitman is adjusted so that the
ratchet takes up one tooth at each pick of the loom, the
number of picks per inch in the cloth will be the same as
the number of teeth in the ratchet. If the ratchet takes up
2 teeth, the number of picks per inch in the cloth will be
equal to one-half the number of teeth in the ratchet, etc.

§52 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 43

Any desired number of picks per inch may be obtained by
changing the ratchet for one having the required number of
teeth. The rim of the ratchet is made in the form of a ring,
which is fastened to the spider with screws, so that it may
be removed and a rim having a diflEerent number of teeth
substituted very readily.

29. As fast as the cloth is drawn down by the take-up roll
it is wound on the cloth roll w, to which motion is imparted
by means of the gear //, driving the gear Wt, which in turn
imparts motion to the cloth roll by means of a friction
clamp Wt. The cloth roll is driven slightly faster than is
necessary to wind up the cloth, which may be wound with any
degree of tension by tightening the thumbscrew a^,, which
tightens the friction on the cloth roll. The tension of the cloth
as it is wound on the cloth roll should, however, be slightly
less than the tension of the cloth above the take-up roll» so as
not to interfere with the motion of the latter, even if there is
considerable back lash in the gears. The hand wheel w^ is
for the purpose of operating the roll by hand when the friction
is loosened and a cut of cloth is being taken from the loom.

30. The ratchet ring take-up motion can be very readily
changed to a conditional take-up by loosening the set-
screw /,; this will bring into action the spring Uiy which has
no function whatever in connection with the positive motion.
When the setscrew is loosened, the tension of the cloth tend-
ing to turn the take-up roll will compress the spring and move
the rod backwards through the holes in the casting /,. As
the cloth is woven it will lessen the tension, and the spring
will gradually force the ratchet forwards a tooth. When this
motion is used as a conditional take-up, the number of picks
per inch will depend on the tension of the warp, which of
course depends on the amount of weight on the let-off motion.
The number of teeth in the ratchet will have no control over
the number of picks per inch when this motion is used as a

•conditional take-up, but more even results will be obtained if
the ratchet does not have exactly or approximately the same
number of teeth as picks per inch in the cloth.

44 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §62

WORM TAKE-UP MOTION

31. The Knowles worm take-up motion, Fig. 20 (a),
is frequently used on fancy looms, and while it is not quite
as convenient as the ratchet ring take-up, it has one advantage
in that it is impossible for the weaver to interfere with it in
any way. With the ratchet ring and similar take-up motions
dishonest weavers often resort to the practice known as
pumping, which consists of pushing the take-up ratchet along
at intervals so that the cloth will be drawn over the
breast beam faster than the take-up motion calls for. By
this means the weaver turns off a greater length of cloth in
a week, but at the expense of the evenness of the goods,
since every time the take-up motion is pumped, a slight thin
place is made in the cloth in consequence of fewer picks
being inserted in the fabric at that point.

The worm take-up motion is driven from the bottom shaft
of the loom by means of a bevel gear / that drives a bevel
gear /» fastened on the take-up shaft /,. On unequally geared
looms, the gear t^ has one-half as many teeth as the gear /,
but on equally geared looms it is of the same size, so that
in either case the take-up shaft /. makes one revolution to
each pick of the loom. A worm u fast to a sleeve to which
the hand wheel u^ is also attached, imparts motion to a worm-
gear 7/a. This is accomplished by means of the handle w„
which when pressed in, as shown in the illustration, engages
with cut-outs in the flange /^ on thie take-up shaft /„ thus
enabling the motion of the shaft to be imparted to the worm.
When the handle is pulled out the hand wheel and worm may
be turned, and the take-up motion operated by hand, since in
this case the worm is loose on the shaft. The motion of the
gear ii^ is imparted to the take-up roll 7' by a train of gears
as shown in Fig. 20 (b), which is a view of the gear-combi-
nation as seen from the inside of the loom. The pinion
gear u^ is fastened to the same shaft as the gear u^ and
drives a gear iu compounded with a gear ?/«, the latter mesh-
ing with the gear i\, which is fastened to the take-up roll i\
Of this train of gears, //, contains 100 teeth; w«, 16 teeth;

c
)£

46 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §52

//•, 13 teeth; and z/., 75 teeth. The s^ear u^ is the change s^ear,
the size of which may be altered so as to change the speed of
the take-up roll so that the cloth will be drawn over the breast
beam of the loom at the rate of speed required to give the
desired number of picks per inch in the fabric. In order to
find the number of teeth required in the change gear to give a
desired number of picks per inch in the cloth, it is best to first
find the constant for the train of gears driving the take-up
roll. It will be noted that gear «, is moved 1 tooth for each
pick of the loom, since the worm u is single-threaded and the
shaft /. makes 1 revolution to each revolution of the crank-
shaft. Then to find the constant it is only necessary to divide
the product of the number of teeth in gears //, and v^ by the
product of the number of teeth in gears 7/« and «, multiplied by
the circumference of the take-up roll z', which is 15.7 inches,

thus ,, ^^^^^l^r, = 2.206 constant.
16 X 13 X 15.7

To find the number of teeth required in the change gear, it is

only necessary to divide the number of picks per inch required

in the cloth by the constant. Thus, if 46 picks per inch are

required, a 20-tooth change gear will be necessary, since

46 -r 2.296 = 20 (practically). By the reverse process

the number of picks per inch in the cloth may be readily

ascertained by multiplying the number of teeth in the change

gear by the constant. In some cases, the pinion gear u^

contains 20 teeth instead of 16, which will make the constant

for the train of gears 1.837, as shown by the following

calculation: - -^^?^ ^^--^ = 1.837 constant.
20 X 13 X 15.7

Table I shows the number of picks per inch in the cloth

with different size chan8:e gears using 16- and 20-tooth

change pinion gears. The number of picks per inch inserted

in the fabric by different combinations of change and change

pinion gears as shown in the table is the correct calculated

number for average fabrics and conditions, but in some cases

a slig:ht variation may be found from the number of picks

statt'd in the table. This is caused by the different rates

of contraction exhibited by fabrics of different constructions

§52 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 47

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48 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §62

woven with various weaves when taken from the loom. This
is due to the fact that the warp is under tension during
weaving, but when taken from the loom» this tension is
relieved and the cloth tends to contract. This contraction,
of course, increases the number of picks per inch, the actual
increase depending on the contraction of the particular clbth
under consideration.

The cloth roll w is driven from the gear z/, through two
intermediate gears w„ w. that impart motion to the gear u\.
The arrangement of the hand wheel u\ and friction clamp w,
is the same as with the ratchet ring take-up motion.

BRAKK MOTION

32. Most fancy looms are equipped with a brake
motion so that when the filling stop-motion is operated the
loom will be stopped immediately. But for some such
motion, the momentum of the loom would cause it to run
for 3 or 4 picks before stopping, thus making it necessary
for the weaver to turn back the head-motion to find the shed
in which the pick was broken, whereas with a properly
constructed brake motion the loom will in most cases be
stopped before the reed reaches the fell of the cloth and
with the broken pick in the shed. The brake motion also
relieves the strain when the loom bangs off, and greatly les-
sens the liability of broken crank-shafts or lay swords.

The brake motion attached to the fancy loom shown in
Figs. 1 and 2 is shown in detail in Figs. 21 and 22. A brake
wheel X is made in one piece with the crank-shaft driving
gear, which is keyed to the crank-shaft of the loom. A steel
friction band x, having a strip of leather riveted to its inner
face is fastened to a stud Xa, passes over the face of the
brake wheel, and is connected to a lever .w by means of a
rod .r, and an adjustable eyebolt x\. Attached to the oppo-
site end of the lever x, is an upright rod y having setscrewed
to its upper end a locking piece j/, that extends through a
slot in the casting z, fastened to the frame of the loom. A
spring y\y the tension of which may be adjusted by a movable

§52 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 49

91—8

50 WOOLEN AND WORSTEJD FANCY LOOMS §52

collar >/., rests against a casting y^ fastened to the frame of
the loom and tends to keep the lever x^ in a raised position
and the friction band x^ pressed firmly around the brake
wheel. When the treadle jt, is pressed down, the spring y^
is compressed and the brake released, the whole arrange-
ment being held in position by means of the notched locking

Fig. 22

piece >/,, which when drawn down is engaged by the adjust-
able steel projection <s',. A spring y^ that strikes the back of
the casting z^ when the locking piece is lowered presses the
latter forwards so that the jar of the loom will not allow it
to become disengaged and the brake to be applied while the
loom is running, but when the protector lever z is operated

§62 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 51

by the protector motion or filling stop-motion, the plunger z^
is forced forwards and disengages the locking piece y^ from
the projection ^„ allowing the spring y^ to expand and
lift the rod y with lever ;c„ thereby tightening the friction
band on the brake wheel and stopping the loom. By lower-
ing the adjustable collar y^, the compression of the spring y^
will be increased when the brake motion is locked; con-
sequently, when it is released greater friction will be applied
to the brake wheel x and the loom stopped correspondingly
quicker. As the brake is applied and the rod y rises, a
casting y, bolted to it strikes the end of the shipper handle y^,
which is then in the position shown by the dotted lines, thus
throwing oflE the power.

It will be noted that when this brake motion is used, the
filling stop-motion is arranged somewhat differently, as
shown in Fig. 22. In this case the lever A,, instead of being
attached to the shaft ^x, is fastened to a short independent
shaft 5r, and also, because it is brought nearer to //, is made
curved instead of straight. A dog z^ is fastened to the other
end of the shaft z^, and engages a lever z^ that is loose on
the shaft hx and engages with its free end the protector
lever z. The result of this arrangement is that when the
filling stop-motion is operated, the dog z. will operate the
lever z^, which will in turn operate the protector lever z and
put the brake on the loom. The same result will also occur
if the protector motion is operated and its dagger strikes the
protector lever z, but in either case the belt is not thrown off
until the casting y^ strikes the end of the shipper handle y.,.

SELVAGE MOTIONS

CAM SKLVAGE MOTIONS

33. There are several different types of selvage
motions applied to fancy looms, the one shown in detail
in Fig. 23 being a cam-motion. On the end of the upright
shaft // is fastened a bevel gear //. that drives another bevel
gear ^»« imparting motion to a cam k. This cam works

Fi.. ^\

§52 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 53

between two pins >&«, k^ in the rod >&. and imparts to it a
reciprocating: motion that is transmitted by means of the
arm k^ to the shaft ^,; this shaft carries bosses k^ for opera-
tingf the selvag^e heddles, which are connected to them by
means of straps in the ordinary manner. The cam is so
shaped that the selvage ends are alternately raised and low-
ered on every pick, so that a plain selvagfe is woven on each
edge of the cloth.

UNIVERSAL SELVAGE MOTION

34. Fig. 24 is an illustration of a selvage motion by
means of which the selvage ends may be operated in any

desired manner, so that they may be made to change on
every pick or may be made to remain stationary while two

54 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §52

or more picks are inserted in the selvage, thus weaving
either plain or tape selvages on each edge of the cloth. In
this motion the oscillating movement of the shaft k^ is
obtained by means of an extra, or fifth, vibrator gear b.
placed between the box cylinder gears a^ and a„ and operated
by an extra row of risers or sinkers on the box chain. This
vibrator gear is provided with a vibrator lever *„ by means
of which the risers and sinkers on the chain govern its move-
ment, and a connector ^,p, which transmits its motion to the
elbow lever k. This lever is connected by means of a rod kx
to a lever ^„ which in turn is connected to an arm k^ on the
shaft k^ by means of a rod k^. The connector bxt> is held in
place by means of a follower lever /*, which is constantly
pressed on it by means of a spring /,.

WOOLEN AND WORSTED
FANCY LOOMS

(PART 2)

CROMPTON FANCY LOOM

INTRODUCTION

1. Although many arguments have been advanced and
much has been said in favor of both open- and close-shed
looms for weaving woolen and worsted fabrics, their relative
value is undecided, for the reason that each loom has its dis-
advantages as well as its advantages. The typical close-
shed loom, in which the warp yarn is all lowered to the level
of the bottom shed after each pick, is rarely used in woolen
and worsted weaving. Most of the looms employed in this
class of work, if not of the open-shed type, operate on the
split-shed principle, but the common practice is erroneously
to call them close-shed looms. In regard to the relative
merits of these two types, it may be safely stated that in the
open-shed looms there is less strain on the warp yarn in
opening the shed, since the harnesses are raised or lowered
only when required by the weave, and no unnecessary move-
ments are made. On the other hand, it is claimed that the
so-called close-shed loom is easier on the warp yarn when
the lay is beating up the filling, since when the reed delivers
the blow to the fell of the cloth, all the warp yarn is level, or
practically so, at the center of the shed and in a practically
straight line from the whip roll to the breast beam. Thus

For notice of copyrtKht, see page immediately foUoivins the title Pose
g53

2 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §53

each warp thread sustains a portion of the blow and is in the
best position to resist it. In the open-shed loom, the warp
threads are deflected from a straight line by the harnesses,
which keep the shed constantly open, so that they are not in
a position to resist the blow of the lay as well as in the close-
shed loom; moreover, in the open-shed loom, the blow must
be resisted by a part of the warp, since some of the warp
threads, being drawn through harnesses that are changing,
are slack at this time and hence can support no part of the
blow, whereas in the close-shed loom the entire warp is level
at each pick, so that every warp thread helps to resist the
blow of the lay.

Other things being equal, a close-shed loom is easier for
the weaver than an open-shed loom, since, with this type of
loom, the warp is brought level at each pick, thus enabling
broken warp ends to be readily drawn in without resorting to
any special leveling device j^r,:bnngipg the ^harnesses and
warp level, as is necessary iii l,(j.9ms j?^ Ihfe open-shed class.
With good strong warp yarns ari'cl'well'-ritade warps the close-
shed loom will give the,' best of results, and is moreover a
loom that is easily kept in r^^ir; f)U't it ihust be said that the
tendency at the present time i^-to give the open-shed loom
the pieference. It has the advantage over the close-shed
loom on fibrous and weak yarns, on account of the absence of
all unnecessary chafing of the warp by the harnesses.

2. The Cromptoii lieavy-i>attern fiiiicy woolen and
worsted loom is shown in Figs. 1 and 2, the former being
a front view and the latter a rear view. Although known
as a close-shed loom, it actually forms a split shed, since
the harnesses and warp yarn are brought level at the center
of the shed after the insertion of each pick, whereas in the
true close-shed, the warp is brought level with the line of
the bottom shed. In addition to the difference in the prin-
ciple of the shedding mechanism, this loom differs mate-
rially from other woolen and worsted looms in the principle
and construction of its various other mechanisms; namely, the
driving arrangement, the box motion, the filling stop-motion,

woe Effi

■^^'

3 Hi

§53 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 3

the protector motion, the take-up motion, and the selvage
mechanism. The loom illustrated is not equipped with a
brake motion. Other than these differences, the Crompton
loom is of the usual construction.

DRIVING

3. Motion is imparted to the loom by a driving belt
running on a pulley r,, Fig. 3 (a), fastened to the cross
driving shaft r, which is supported in bearings attached to
the frame of the loom and carries a leather-faced friction
plate Cb. These parts are in motion continuously, but no
motion is imparted to the loom unless the friction plate c^
is moved into contact with a friction plate r, that is loose on
the shaft c. Attached to the friction plate c, and also loose
on the shaft is a 19-tcoth bevel pinion gear r, that drives a
58-tooth gear di fastened to the bottom shaft d of the loom.
Motion is imparted to the crank-shaft ahyjsi SS-tgath gear a,
meshing with the gear ^,; the crank;sh,aft and bottom shaft
therefore revolve at the same rate of speed; in other words,
the loom is equally geared.

The loom is started by throwing the. friction plate f. in
contact with the plate r„ which is accomplished by the
shipper lever d. A collar c. with two projecting lugs that
extend into slots in the lever r, is loosely supported on the
shaft c and separated from the hub of the friction plate c by
a leather washer r„. An adjustable rod r, attached to the
upper end of the lever r. connects it with one arm r,o of an
elbow lever, the other arm Cn of which is cast in the form
of a yoke and engages the shipper lever. As the shipper
lever is drawn toward the center of the loom, against the
tension of the spring d,, attached to arm ^,, motion is
imparted to the lever r,, and the collar r^ that it operates
forces the friction plate a in contact with r,, allowing the
motive power to be communicated to the loom. The leather
washer r„ that is placed between the stationary collar r« and
the hub of the rotating friction plate r. prevents wear, which
would otherwise be excessive, since the pressure of the

4 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §53

collar on the friction plate must be of considerable intensity
in order to cause the latter to drive the plate r, and the
loom. A similar leather washer r* is placed between the
sleeve of the pinion c^ and the bearing of the shaft c^ to
receive the thrust of the plate r, when r. is forced against it.
In order to withdraw the friction plate r. from the plate r„
so as to stop the loom instantly when the shipper lever d is
released and moved from the center of the loom by the
spring ^„ a yoke casting r, is bolted to the lever c^ and car-
ries two projecting lugs engaging a groove in the hub of
the plate. This yoke should be so adjusted that the lugs
will not bear against the sides of the slot when the plate r,
is pressed in contact with the plate r„ as this will quickly
wear out the lugs; this whole pressure should be borne by
the collar r,.

The upper end of the shipj^er -feyer a^ extends through a
slot d^y Fig. 3 (^), and- Whdti' 9ra\^; inwards toward the
center of the loom is heW^ih* a recesfe, (jr notch ^„ Fig. 19.
A shipper handle d^. Fig. 3 (^), on the Opposite side of the
loom is connected v^^th the' lever* ^ *by a; rod d^ located just
below the breast beatUv* set .that the loom may be started or
stopped by either d or d^, one of which is always easily
within reach of the weaver. One point to be noted in con-
nection with this driving arrangement is that as the gear r,
is loose oft the shaft r, the lay may easily be pushed back by
the weaver, as is frequently required when the loom is at
rest and plates r„ r, not in contact. The reason for this Is
that in so doing it is not necessary to turn back the shaft r,
as in many similar driving mechanisms.

SHEDDING MECHANISM

4. The principle of the Crompton shedding mechanism
is illustrated by the sectional view of the head-motion shown
in Fig. \. In this illustration, only one harness with its
connections with the shedding mechanism is shown, but
actually a number of harnesses are operated; in a standard
loom, the equipment is 27 harnesses, any one of which may

tiM^f.^

§53 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 5

be raised or lowered entirely independent of the others.
Each harness / is connected by straps, wires, and stirrups —
the former running over suitable sheaves — to an angular
harness lever, or jack, e supported on a rod ^,. A jack-hook e^
pivoted to the jack rests on the harness chain ^», which is
composed of rollers and washers threaded on suitable spin-
dles or chain bars held together by fiat links and secured by
cotter pins. The harness chain is supported by a chain
cylinder g having an intermittent rotary motion, so that a
new bar of the harness chain will be forced under the jack-
hooks at each pick of the loom. A roller^, on the harness
chain raises the jack-hook against the compression of a
spring ^„ while a washer ^, on the harness chain allows the
jack-hook to fall. The object of the spring e^ is to prevent
vibration of the jack-hook and to insure its fall when a
washer on the harness chain is brought into action.

The downward movement of the jack-hook is limited by a
pin e^ on the jack-hook that rests in^ hooked part €^ of the
jack. To operate the jack so^.that jit will raise and lower
the harness, two sliding bars, or knives, /, h are employed;
the former, since it raises the. harness, is known as the
lifter, and the latter, since it lowers the harness, is called
the depressor. They slide in slots, shown in Figs. 6 and 10,
in the framework of the machine and in opposite direc-
tions; that is, when the lifter /, Fig. 4, is moving from the
loom, the depressor h is moving toward the loom, as shown
by the arrows; and vice versa, when the lifter is moving
toward the loom, the depressor is moving from it. When
in the position shown in Fig. 4, both the lifter and depressor
are just commencing to move in the direction of their respect-
ive arrows and all the harnesses are level in the center of the
shed. In considering the action of this mechanism in raising
and lowering the harnesses so as to produce the proper sheds
for the insertion of the picks of filling, it is only necessary to
deal with the method of operating 1 harness, since all the
harnesses are operated in a similar manner.

With all the harnesses level in the center of the shed, the
jacks all evenly in line, and the lifter and depressor in

6 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §53

Fi«. 5

§63 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 7

the positions shown in Fig. 4, a new bar of the harness chain
is forced under the jack-hooks, and if it contains a roller the
jack-hook is raised, but if a washer, the jack-hook remains
down and is kept there by the spring ^,. The jack-hook con-
tains two hooks, or more properly notches, one on the upper
edge, designed to be engaged by the depressor h, and
another on its lower edge that may engage with the lifter /.
Suppose that a roller g^ is forced under the jack-hook; then
the latter will be raised, and as the depressor moves in
the direction shown by the arrow in Fig. 4, it will engage the
notch in the jack-hook, moving the top of the jack in toward
the loom and the bottom part from the loom, as shown by
the full lines in Fig. 5, thus lowering the harness. On the
other hand, suppose that when a new bar of the harness chain
is brought into action a washer is under the jack-hook; then
it will remain in its lower position, and the lifter engaging
the notch in its lower edge and moving in the direction
sho)^Ti by its arrow in Fig. 4, will move the top of the jack
from the loom, and the bottom of the jack toward the
loom, as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 5, thus rais-
ing the harness. Certain harnesses being lowered and
others raised by this operation will result in a shed being
formed with the warp yarn, through which the shuttle is
passed with the pick of filling. It should be particularly
noted that a roller on the harness chain depresses the harness
and a washer raises it; hence, in constructing harness chains
for this loom, washers are threaded on the chain bars for
risers in the chain draft and rollers for sinkers.

After the depressor h has moved in the direction shown
by its arrow in Fig. 4 for a distance sufficient to lower the
harness to the bottom shed, its motion is reversed. As this
takes place, the front edge of the depressor frees the jack-
hook, so that it will be ready to fall in case a sinker is
brought under it when the next bar of the harness chain
is brought around; but as the depressor continues to move,
its back edge strikes the jack at the point e^ and brings the
jack back to its central position and the harness to the center
of the shed. In the same way the motion of the lifter /

8 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §53

is reversed, so that if a roller is to be forced under the jack-
hook on the next pick it will be free to rise and engas:e the
depressor. The continued motion of the lifter results in its
back edge coming into contact with the jack at the point e^
and lowering it to its central position and the harness to the
center of the shed. The jacks, harnesses, lifter, and depressor
having now resumed their initial positions, a new bar of
the harness chain is forced under the jack-hooks and the
harnesses raised and lowered to produce the next shed for
the insertion of another pick of filling.

Although tl^is shedding mechanism is commonly and
erroneously said to produce a close shed, it in reality makes
a true split shed. The warp yarn is all level at the center of
the shed after the insertion of each pick; then certain
harnesses are raised ^nd others lowered ^o form the shed,
after which all the harnesses are btought level in the center
again for a new selectibft" of harnesses \ to be raised or
lowered for the nextf shed. •

5. Driving. — Motion i«. imparted to both the lifter and
depressor and to the chain cylinder by suitable connections
with the crank-shaft of the loom. The lifter and depressor
have a sliding, or reciprocating, movement and are driven as
shown in Fig. 6, which is a view of the Crompton shedding
mechanism showing the driving parts only, the jacks and
attached parts being removed. A casting a, setscrewed to
the crank-shaft a of the loom acts as a crank, and by means
of a crankpin ^, imparts motion to an upright connecting-
rod ^4 that is adjustably connected to a casting a^ secured to
a square shaft a^. As the crank-shaft rotates, therefore, the
connecting arm will rise and fall and impart a partial rotary
reciprocating, or rocking, movement to the shaft ^.. Keyed
to each end of this shaft is a casting a, with two extended
arms to which connecting-rods /,, //, are attached; the former
is connected to one end of the lifter /, and the latter to one
end of the depressor // with ball and socket joints /„ A,. The
opposite ends of the lifter and depressor are connected to
the square shaft a^ by similar arrangements; hence, as this

''•. .iO tU::r.Ak.'"

§5^1 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 9

shah rocks in its bearings, the requidle reciprocating sliding
motion in opposite directions is imparted to them.

The chain cylinder g- is also driven from the crank-shaft,
but with an intermittent motion, so that a bar of the harness
chain will be quickly brought into position beneath the jack-
hooks and then come to a pause, in
order to allow the lifter and depressor
to engage the jack-hooks and raise
or lower the harnesses. This char-
acteristic movement of the chain
cylinder is obtained as follows: An
extension of the crankpin a, engages
with a slotted casting ^i, loose upon
a sttid^ei*- A pin gear;?^,,.^,, adjust-
ablv bolted to the casting ^,, and
also loose on the stud jf^^ engages
with a 7-tooth star g^r .^^^ (*aee^
also Fig, 7) fastened to a sliort shaft,
to which is also attached •HT:cvel
^ear ^» that meshes with another
bevel gear A^^ This gear islbo^p/^p'**'
an upright shaft j-,, but --im^rts
aaotton to the shaft through a sliding
clotch collar /• keyed to it. The clutch collar /*, ahhongh
it transmits the motion of the gear £-, to the shaft ^*, is
capable of being slid along the shaft so as to impart motion
to jf , through either gear^v or ^m as may be desired. On
the tipper end of the upright shaft is a bevel gear ^, mesh-
ing with a bevel gear ^* that is fastened to the shaft of
the chain cylinder^. As the crankpin a^ rotates, the pin,^*,
engages one of the cut-outs in the star gear ^t* and turns
it the distance of 1 tooth, or one-seventh of a revolution;
this motion commnnicated to the chain cylinder j^ turns the
htter one-seventh of a revolution, since all the bevel gears
used contain the same number of teeth. As the chain cylin-
der contains seven recesses for the reception of bars of the
harness chain, this will result in a new bar of the chain
being forced under the jack-hook at each revolution of the

Fio.7

10 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §53

pin gear ^i., or in other words, at each revolution of the
crank-shaft a, or pick of the loom.

In order to hold the chain cylinder in its proper position
while it is stationary, the end of each tooth of the star
gear gx^ is recessed so as to fit the curved concentric por-
tion gxx of the pin gear; thus while this portion of the pin
gear is in contact with the star gear it will impart no motion
to it, but instead will hold it steady and prevent its turning.

Fio. 8

To further steady the chain cylinder and hold it, while
stationary, in its proper position, so that the bar of the
harness chain will be presented to the jack-hooks in the
correct position, a check-roll g^, Fi^. S, is employed. This
roll is carried by a lever .^,., to which is attached a spring.^,,
that keeps the roll firmly pressed against a disk ^„ fastened
to the shaft of the chain cylinder g. The roll, by engaging
with cut-outs in this disk, holds the harness chain in the

$« WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 11

proper position. A hand wheel ^., is also attached to the
shaft of the chain cylinder for use when it is desired to turn
the harness chain by hand. In order to support long and
heavy harness chains so as to prevent their swinging and
becoming caught in the mechanism oi the loom, suitable
guides a^. Fig* 1, are bolted to the frame of the loom.

6. Reverse Motion. — During the ordinary running of the
loom, motion is imparted to the upright shaft .^, in the direc-
tion of the arrow, by means of the gear g^, transmitting the
power through the clutch collar a, which is engaged with the
^ear, as shown in Fig, 6, In this case, the chain cylinder j^ is
driven in the direction shown by the arrow » and the harness
chain runs under it, instead of over it as in the majority of
looms* When, however, a mispick is made, or when for any
caase a pick-out becomes necessary, the direction of rotation
of the chain cylinder is reversed, so that the sheds will be

opened in reverse order until the mispick is found or the
pit'k^out completed. On the majority of looms this operation
necessitates that the shedding mechanism be disconnected
and turned over by the weaver, but on this loom it is accom-
plished by power, the loom running in the ordinary direction
and the chain cylinder in the reverse direction.

This Is accomplished as follows: A reverse handle /,
Pigs, 0 and 9, is setscrewed to the end of a short cross-
shaft /,, the other end of which is bent in the form of a
crank and supports a rod /, connected to a lever /, operating

12 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §53

a sliding upright rod /«. A yoke* or fork, /. setscrewed to
the rod y* engages a slot in the clutch collar /„ so that if
the rod y« is raised, the clutch will engage with the gear gj^
but if lowered, the clutch will engage with the gear^,, which
will then drive the upright shaft g^ and chain cylinder g in
the opposite direction to that of the arrows on them, thus
reversing the motion of the harness chain and opening the
sheds in reverse order. If the handle / is in the position
shown in Fig. 6, with the crank part of the shaft turned
vertically downwards, the harness chain runs in the ordinary
direction; but if thrown into the position shown in Fig. 9,
with the crank turned vertically upwards, the harness chain
moves in the reverse direction.

In order to prevent vibration of the loom from jarring the
clutch collar y, out of contact with either gear g, or gear ^„
a series of notches /» are made in a raised part of the shaft jx\
these engage with a projection y. on the frame, being pressed
in contact with the latter by a coil spring y,. This arrange-
ment does not prevent the handle j from readily being
operated, but simply acts as a stop to hold the mechanism
in whatever position is desired. This reverse motion is an
excellent arrangement and allows the weaver to reverse the
sheds rapidly and with little exertion, it being simply neces-
sary to turn the reverse handle and then operate the loom
pick by pick with the power. When doing this the picking
motion is disconnected, as will be explained later.

7. Settiiipr and Tiiuin^ the Bliecldiu^ Motion.— The

size of the shed is regulated by the amount of throw, or
movement, given to the lifter and depressor, which may be
adjusted by moving the connecting-rods /\, //,, Fig. 6, in the
slots of the casting a,. By moving them farther from the
center of the square shaft a^, more throw is given the lifter
and depressor, which results in the harnesses being raised
higher and depressed lower, and the size of the shed there-
fore increased; moving them in the opposite direction
decreases the size of the shed. In adjusting the rods /,, //,,
both at the front and back of the loom, care should be taken to

§53 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 13

fasten them to a, equidistant from the center of the shaft a*, so
that the lifter and depressor will each have the same amount of
movement and the harnes.s be r aisled and lowered the same
distance from the center of the iihed. When the casting a^
is in such a position that the pin a, is vertically over the
center of the crank-shaft a, the connecting-rod a^ is raised to
its highest position and the harnesses should be level in the
center of the shed, with all the jacks even. If the harnesses
and jacks are not in this position, they should be adjusted;
this may be done by loosening the nuts «.. so that the cast-
ing df, may be moved until the jacks and harnesses are in
the correct position, after which the nuts a^ are tightened*

In order to time the shedding motion^ the lay is brought
forwards until the reed is about 1 inch from the fell of the
cloth* The casting a», Fig. 6, is then loosened and turned
mitil it is vertically up, or until the jacks are all even, where-
upon the casting is again tightened. This closes the shed,
bringing the harnesses level when the lay is in the position '
in which it was placed at the ^itart. If it is desired to have'
the loom shed later or earlier^ the crank-shaft may be placed
so that the reed is less than 1 inch from the fell of the cloth in
the first case, or more than 1 inch distant in the second case.

In timing the harness-chain cylinder, it will be noted that
the movement of the cylinder, which forces a new bar of the
harness chain under the jack-hooks, must take place during^
the time that the lifter and depressor are returning the
harnesses to the center of the shed, since the jack-hooks are
then disengaged from the lifter and depressor and are there-
fore free to rise or fall, according to the selection of the new
bar of the harness chain,. To accomplish this, the pin gear^„
is set ahead of the crankpin n^. Fig. 6, the amount of the
advance being adjusted by loosening the nut ^«, Fig. 7,
and moving the pin gear forwards to the desired position.
When the pin a,. Pig. 6, is vertically above the center of the
crank-shaft, the pin gear^,, should have completed the move-
ment of the star gear^»* and be well disengaged from it, so
that the concentric part ,f^,, of the pin gear will be engaged
with the hollow ends of the teeth of the star gear.

14 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §53

BOX MOTION

8. As in most fancy woolen and worsted looms, the
Crompton box motion is arranged to operate four boxes on
each end of the lay, any one of which may be raised so as to
be level with the race plate when required. The raising and
lowering of the boxes is controlled by a box chain ^,i, Fig. 10,
that is similar to the pattern, or harness, chain, except that it
is only wide enough to contain four rollers, or washers, for
operating four fingers k, ^,, ^„ k^. Two of these fingers k^ kx

Fig. 10

control the operation of the boxes on the right of the loom,
while the other two X\, ^3 control the boxes on the left of the
loom. The box-chain cylinder ,^„ is fastened to the same
shaft as the harness-chain cylinder ,^, Fi^. G; consequently,
the box chain must move in unison with the harness chain,
and as it is therefore impossible for the box chain to get out
of time with the harness chain, the correct box must always
be brought level with the race plate, and the correct color of
filling placed in each shed. The fingers X*, X*,, X-,, X',, Fig. 10,

16 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §63

are connected, by means of four adjustable rods ^«, with four
vibrator levers /, /„ /«, /a, Fig. 11; k is connected with the
vibrator lever /; kx, with the vibrator lever /,; ^„ with /,;
and ^3, with /a. By means of these connections, if a roller
is placed on the box chain so as to come under any partic-
ular finger, the vibrator lever connected to that finger will
be raised, while if a washer on the box chain comes under
the finger, the vibrator lever will be lowered.

Each of the vibrator levers /, /», /„ /, cames a vibrator
gear /*, /., /•, A, respectively. Thus, if any vibrator lever is
raised, the vibrator gear attached to it will be brought in
contact with a cylinder gear ;;i, while if the lever is lowered,
the vibrator gear will come in contact with the cylinder
gear »^,; these are sometimes known as quill gears y because
the teeth are placed on a cylindrical sleeve, or quill. Each
of the vibrator gears has 26 teeth, divided into two sections
separated by spaces equal to those occupied by 1 tooth and
4 teeth, respectively. Each cylinder gear has 15 teeth sepa-
rated by a small blank space.

Since motion is imparted to the cylinder gears, it will also
be imparted to the vibrator gears when they are raised or
lowered so as to be in contact with them. A steadying
pin /,4 attached to each vibrator lever works in a slot in the
vibrator gear attached to that lever and governs the extent
of the movement of the gear* when operated on by either
cylinder gear. Vibrator gears A, /» operate the boxes on the
right-hand side of the loom, and since vibrator gears /., /„
which operate the boxes on the left-hand side of the loom,
are arranged in a similar manner and operate in the same
way, the former only will be dealt with in the following
description.

Attached to the vibrator gear L is a connecting-rod /., and
to the vibrator gear /» a similar rod /«. Connecting-rod /« is
also attached to a lever /,„, and connecting-rod h to a lever /,,,
both of which are fulcrumed on a stud /,,. An elbow lever /,*
fulcrumed on the stud /,. carries a double-ended lever /„ at
its upper extremity, while its other end is connected to the
boxes on the right-hand side of the loom by means of the

§53 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 17

castings /,„ /,., sleeve w„ spring «„ and box rod w,, the boxes
being carried on the upper end of the latter. The weight of
the boxes operating through the lever /m keeps the lever A,
constantly in contact with a stud /». on the lever /,» and a
roller /», fastened to the lever /»o.

9. The manner in which this arrangement raises and
lowers the boxes is as follows: If a roller is placed on the
box chain so as to raise the finger k^ Fig. 10, the vibrator
lever /, Fig. 11, will also be raised; this will raise the vibrator
gear /«, so that it will engage with the cylinder gear vi. The
cylinder gear will then turn the vibrator gear one-half of a
revolution, or until the blank space equal to 4 teeth comes
on top; this will result in throwing the connection of the
rod /, to the other side of the vibrator gear, which will draw
in the rod and pull the lever /,o to the right. As this takes
place, the roller /„ will force the lower end of the double-
ended lever /,„ the other end of which is resting on /,„ also
toward the vibrator gear, which will result in the upper end
of the lever A* being operated in the same direction and its
other end raised. Since this end of the lever is connected to
the box rod and boxes, the latter will also be raised.

In a sir.ilar manner, if the roller is placed under the
finger ^,, Fig. 10, the vibrator lever A, Fig. 11, will be lifted
and the vibrator gear /, raised in contact with the cylinder
gear m. Motion being imparted to this vibrator gear, it
draws the connecting-rod /. and lever /., to the right, the
stud /„ on the latter operating the upper end of the double
lever /,„ which since its opposite end is resting against the
roller /,„ will operate the lever Z,* and also raise the boxes.
This connection, however, gives the boxes a lift equal to the
distance of two boxes, while the former connection gave a lift
of but one box; that is, the vibrator gear A and its connections
will raise the boxes from the first to the second box, while
the vibrator gear U and its connections will raise the boxes
from the first to the third box. Both vibrator gears, if
operated, will raise the boxes from the first to the fourth
box. Reversing the operations described, that is, lowering

18 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §53

the vibrator gears so that they will engage the cylinder
gear Wi, reverses the operation of the levers and lowers the
boxes. From this it will be seen that any box can be
brought level with the race plate by placing the proper roller
or riser on the box chain so that the shuttle that it contains
will be driven across the loom.

Vibrator gears /„ /, are connected to the boxes that they
govern in the same way as* the vibrator gears /*, /„ but the

Fir.. 12

castinjr /,, on the end of lever /,. instead of being connected
directly to the lifting rod is connected to a chain /,o that, as
will be explained later, is connected to the boxes on the
opposite, or left-hand, end of the lay.

10. In order to make the system of levers operating the
boxes more clear, Fiq:s. 12, IJ^, M, and 15 are given. These
are diagrammatic views showing the positions of the boxes

§53 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 19

when the box levers are in their four possible positions.
Fig^. 12 shows the first box level with the race plate. In
this case, the levers Ao, /n, /i4, Af are in the position shown,
both connecting-rods /., /, being extended to the left by the
vibrator gears A, /.. In this figure, the vibrator gear L is
shown raised and just commencing to be turned by the
cylinder gear m to raise the second box so that it will be
level with the race plate.

Fig. 13

Fig. 13 shows the second box raised level with the race
plate, the lever A^ having remained stationary, but the lever Ao
having been drawn in and having imparted a sufficient motion
to the levers /,,, /i* to raise the boxes the distance of one
box. In this figure, the vibrator gears A, /. are shown in the
position they will assume just before the third box is to be
brought level with the race plate. In this case, the vibrator

20 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §53

gear /. is raised so as to engage with the cylinder gear m and
operate the lever /,», while the vibrator gear /* is shown low-
ered so as to engage with the cylinder gear w„ in order to
return the lever Ao to its original position.

Fig. 14 shows the boxes raised so that the third box is
level with the race plate, lever /^o having been returned to its
original position and lever A, having been operated so as to

Fig. H

give the boxes their re(]iiisite lift of the distance of two
boxes. In this figure, the vibrator gears /*, /. ^re shown in
the position they will assume just before the fourth box is
brought level with the race plate; that is, both vibrator gears
must be operated on by the top cylinder gear m. In this
case, the vibrator orear /, has already been operated on and
vibrator gear /, is just about to be operated on by the top
cylinder gear.

§53 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 21

Fig. 15 shows the position of the boxes with the fourth
box level with the race plate. In this case both the
levers A., /,» are operated, raising the lever /,« to its greatest
extent and bringing the fourth box level with the race plate.
The vibrator gears A, /, are shown in the position that they
will assume just before the boxes are returned with the first
box level with the race plate. In this case both vibrator

Fio. 15

~^Ts will have to be brought in contact with the cylinder
^^r w,, so as to lower the levers Ac Ai to their initial posi-
^^s, as shown in Fig. 12.

^y properly threading rollers or washers on the box chain,
■^ as to raise or lower fingers k, X*,, the boxes may be raised
"^ desired. For instance, if two washers are placed on the
^^ chain so as to come under these fingers, the lever /,« will
^^ume the position shown in Fig. 12 and the first box on the

22 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §53

right-hand side of the loom will be level with the race plate.
If a washer is placed under the finger kt and a roller in position
to operate the finger k, the lever /,« will assume the position
shown in Fig. 13, the second box in this case being level with
the race plate; but if the roller operates the finger kx and the
washer comes under the finger ky the lever A* will assume the
position shown in Fig. 14 and the third box will be level with
the race plate. If two rollers are used and both fingers k, k^
raised, the lever A* will assume the position shown in Fig. 15
and the fourth box will be raised. This it will be tmderstood
operates only those boxes on the right-hand side of the loom,
but by placing rollers or washers on the box chain so as to
operate the fingers k», k,, Fig. 10, the boxes on the left-hand
side of the loom may be operated in a similar manner.

11. Fig. 16 is a front view of the boxes on each end of
the lay, and shows the method of connecting them with the
castings /,., /,. on the ends of the box levers /,«, /,„ Fig. 11.
The boxes n are fastened to the box rods «,, on which are
placed strong spiral springs «, that firmly press the sleeves w,
against the nuts «« screwed to the ends of the box rods. The
sleeves w, are free to slide through the castings n, when oper-
ated by the box motion. The lever A* operates the boxes
on the right-hand side of the loom by being directly con-
nected to the sleeve w, by the castings /,., /,„ but the casting /„
on the lever A. that operates the boxes on the left-hand side
of the loom is connected to the sleeve ;/, on the left-hand
side by means of chains and rods Ao, the former running
around sheaves AnAa^Aa. In raising the boxes, it will be
seen that since motion is imparted to the sleeves w„ arid not
to the box rods ?/,, the motion of the boxes is dependent on
the springs ;/,, and if the picker or a shuttle is caught in the
boxes, the spring will be compressed and no damage or
broken parts will result. The boxes drop by their own
weight when released by the box motion, which is therefore
only a semipositive motion.

12. Drivinpr. — The motion of the boxes on a box loom
is intermittent, since it is necessary that they should be at

24 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §53

rest while the loom is picking and until the shuttle is
well boxed on the opposite side of the loom; hence, the
motion of the cylinder gears w, vii must also be intermittent,
so as to quickly change the boxes after the shuttle comes to
rest, having them completely changed before the next pick
of the loom. This intermittent motion of the cylinder gears
is obtained in the following manner: Attached to the end
of the bottom shaft of the loom is a segment gear ///„
Fig. 17, one-half of its circumference containing 14 teeth,

one of which is a double
tooth, while the other
half is smooth. Attached
to the bottom cylinder
gear is a gear ;;/, contain-
ing 14 teeth and a blank
space into which the
double tooth on the gear ;;/,
meshes. As the gear w,
is rotated by the bottom
shaft in the direction of
the arrow, ;//» will remain
stationary until the double
tooth on w, comes around
and engages it, where-
upon it will be turned
exactly one revolution,
since ;//, and m, each con-
tain 14 teeth; the cylinder
gear will therefore make
one revolution to each
revolution of the bottom shaft, or in this case, as the
crank-shaft and bottom shaft are equally geared, one revolu-
tion to each pick of the loom. During the time that the teeth
of the gear ;;;, are not in contact with the teeth of ;;i„ the
cylinder gears are held stationary by a piece w,, the end of
which is recessed to fit the smooth concentric portion of ;;/„
thus making it impossible for ;//, to move. When the double
tooth of gear ;;/, begins to mesh with the blank space of

Fig. 17

§53 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 25

gear wi, one comer of the piece w, will move intp the recess
seen on gear w, and thus permit w, to rotate. The motion
of the bottom cylinder gear is transmitted to a gear w. that
is fastened to the top cylinder gear through two intermediate
gears w*, w,; thus motion is imparted to both cylinder gears
at the same time, but in opposite directions.

13, liOck-Knife. — During the time that the cylinder
gears m,m^ are imparting motion to the vibrator gears
/«, /., /•, /f, Fig. 11, the vibrator levers /, A, /„ U must be held
securely in position, so that those vibrator gears that are
down will be held securely meshed with the bottom cylinder
gear iWi, and those that are raised, with the top cylinder
gear m. This is accomplished by means of a lock-knife t7«,
which is operated by a cam o bolted to the driving gear ;;/,
in such a manner that it engages the ends of the vibrator
levers at the proper time and holds them in position. A
casting o. loose on the stud o^o has an extended arm to which
a spring o, is attached, and also carries a roller o, adjustably
fixed in a vertical slot; the roller is operated on by the cam o
which, as it revolves, alternately presses down the roller
against the tension of the spring o,, and allows the tension
of the spring to raise the roller. The motion of the roller
is. of course, imparted to the casting o^ and also to the lock-
knife ^«, although the latter is not directly connected to o^,
the arrangement being as follows: The lock-knife o^ and the
casting o^ are cast in one piece that is loose on the stud t7,o.
Holes are bored through two extended lugs (?„ o. on the
casting ^., and these guide a plunger ^., which is pressed by
a strong spring o^ into a recess ^^ cast in the casting o^. By
this means the castings o^, t?, act as one piece, and the motion
of the cam o is readily transmitted to the lock-knife o^] but
still should the lock-knife strike against the ends of the
vibrator levers in such a manner as to be prevented from
moving in far enough, no breakage of parts will occur, since
in this case the plunger ^, is forced out of the recess t?,,,
allowing the casting o^ to be forced down by the cam without
imparting any additional motion to the lock-knife.

26 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §53

14. Relief Motion. — The timing of the lock-knife and
of the chain barrel ^„, Fig. 10, is such that when a new bar
of the box chain is forced under the fingers ky k^^ k^, k^ the
lock-knife is engaged with the ends of the vibrator levers.
It will be seen, therefore, that if there were not some relief
motion provided, some part of the fingers or their connec-
tions with the vibrator levers would be broken, since it is
obviously impossible to raise any one of the fingers if the
vibrator lever to which it is connected were held down by
the lock-knife. To provide for this difference in the timing
of these parts, the fingers k, ^,, ^„ k^ are pivoted on a stud ^.
fixed in the end of an elbow lever ^„ which is fulcrumed on a
stud k^ and has a spring k. attached to its lower end. This
spring is also fastened to the lower end of a lever ^., the
other end of which rests against a roller u attached to the
arm a^ that operates the lifter of the shedding mechanism.

When a new bar of the box chain is forced under the fin-
gers, their rear ends are raised, as shown in Fig. 10, against
the tension of the spring ^., although the spring is at this
time comparatively slack, because the roller u is then in its
extreme position, as shown in the illustration.

The vibrator levers are not immediately raised when a new
bar is forced under the fingers, but when the lock-knife is
disengaged from them by its cam, the spring k^ will pull the
fingers k, /*,, /*„ k^ down on the chain bar that is under them,
the spring being under greater tension at this time, because
the roller /, has moved to the left and forced the lower end
of the lever /*„ to which the spring k^ is attached, to the
right. This allows the chain bar to make the proper selec-
tion of boxes to be raised, those fingers that are resting on
a roller on the chain bar raising the vibrator levers to which
they are connected, while those beneath which there is a
washer allow the vibrator levers to which they are connected
to remain down. A cam X\„ to which a hand wheel /:,,
is attached is provided to operate on the lever k., so that
the rear ends of the fingers may be conveniently held in a
raised position when it is desired to place a new box chain
on the loom.

M §53 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 27

V 13- SettlniT ana Tlmlug.— In setting any box motion,
oae of the most important points to be observed is to have
eacb box» as it is raised or lowered, brought to the exact
level of the race plate, since, if a box is too low, the shuttle,
when leaving it» will strike the edge of the race plate, which
will deflect its point upwards and be liable to result in its being
thrown from the loom. The same thing will occur if the box is
too high or if the back end of the box is very much higher
than the front end, since, in these cases, the shuttle, in leaving
the box, will strike forcibly on the race plate and rebound

K sufficiently to raise its point and throw it out. In leveling
the boxes on the Crompton loom, the vibrator gears are first
revolved so as to bring the fourth box into position, as
shown in Fig* lb, and if the box is not exactly level with the
race plate, the boxes are raised or lowered as required,
until the correct position is obtained, the adjustment being
made in this case by means of the nuts n^. After having
adjusted the fourth box, the vibrator gears are revolved so
as to bring the first box into position, as shown in Fig. 12,
and if this box is not exactly level with the race plate, it
may be leveled by loosening the bolt /„ and adjusting the
casting /*. so as to bring the boxes into the desired position.
In leveling the first box, the fourth box is liable to be thrown
out of level, so that the boxes should be returned to the
initial position and the fourth box again adjusted by means
of the nuts »*; then, in order to insure the first box remaining
level* It should be brought into position again and further
adjusted by means of the casting /»,, After having adjusted
the fourth and first boxes, the boxes are returned to the first-
box position and the third box is then raised, as shown in
Fig. 14. If this box does not come exactly level with the
race plate, it may be adjusted by means of the stud /„ until
perfect. Next, the boxes are returned to the first-box posi-
tion and the second box then raised by means of the vibrator
gear that operates the lever A, with stud A^, as shown in
Fig. 13. In this case it will be generally found that the

I adjustment of the stud A, to level the third box will also effect

B the leveling of the second box without further adjustment;

28 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §53

but should this not be so, the second box may be leveled by
carefully adjusting either the stud /„ or the small bracket /„.
The object of this bracket is for fine adjustments of the
second box, as explained, and^also for further adjustment
when the box chain wears by constant use. After leveling
the boxes on one end of the lay, those on the other end
should be leveled, which may be accomplished by adjusting
the levers that operate them in the same manner as in the
first instance.

The timing of the box motion is accomplished by means
of the gear w„ Figs. 11 and 17, that is fastened to the
bottom shaft and imparts motion to the cylinder, or quill,
gears w, Wi. To accomplish this timing, the lay is brought
up until the daggers of the protector motion just touch their
respective knock-off levers; then the gear w, is loosened and
turned until the boxes move i inch, whereupon the gear
should be securely fastened to the bottom shaft. The box
motion should be timed in this manner irrespective of the
movement of the chain cylinder of the shedding and box
mechanisms. In timing the lock-knife o^. Fig. 11, the
cam 0 should be loosened and turned so that the lock-knife
will have returned to its locked position, engaging the
ends of the vibrator levers, just before the cylinder, or quill,
gears start to move, after which the cam should again be
securely fastened.

PICK-DISCONNECTING DEVICE

16. Whenever the pick is lost or it is desired to make a
pick-out, the reverse mechanism is thrown into operation, as
previously explained; but when this is to be done it is
necessary that the picking motion should be disconnected,
so that as the sheds are reversed the picker sticks will
remain idle with the shuttles at rest in the boxes. This
allows the sheds to be reversed and the pick-out made with-
out the shuttles interfering with the weaver. The boxes,
however, are worked back with the sheds, so that when the
loom is started again the proper color of filling will be
inserted in the cloth. The pick-disconnecting mechanism is

30 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §53

shown in Fig. 18 la) and (d). One end of the picking
shaft Pi, is carried in the ordinary manner by a casting ^i„
but the other end is centered at px^ in a casting p» that is in
the shape of a ring and fits over a stationary semicircular
casting ^„ Fig. 18 (d), on which it may turn. Attached to
the lower end of the casting^, is a rod/,* Fig* 18 (a), that
connects it with a double-ended lever p., A similar rod A«
attached to the upper end of this lever is connected with a simi-
lar arrangement on the opposite side of the loom, with the
exception, of course, that these parts are of the other hand.
Lever p. is fastened on a shaft pt, to which is also fastened
a casting /j„ connected by a rod A with another arm p,.
This arm is fast on a shaft /„ to which is also attached a
double treadle pypi. When the part p of the treadle is
forced down by the weaver's foot, the rod A will pull the
lower end of the casting /, to the left, throwing the upper
end, in which the picking shaft /„ turns, to the right and
drawing the picking shoe pn out of the plane of the pick
ball d„ so that as the latter revolves with the bottom shaft d
it will not come into contact with the picking shoe.

When, on the other hand, the treadle /» is stepped upon by
the weaver, the upper end of the casting p» will be forced to
the left and the picking shoe pn thrown under the pick
ball ^„ so that as the bottom shaft revolves the pick ball
will strike the shoe and operate the picker stick. The
extent of movement of the picking shaft and picking shoe is
governed by a projection /,o, Fig. 18 (^), on the casting p».
This projection strikes against the stationary semicircular
casting /, at pi, when the picking shoe p^ is directly under
the pick ball d, so as to be operated by it, and against ^.,
when the picking shoe is moved from the plane of the
pick ball. A plate /„ attached to the casting p» holds it
in contact with the stationary semicircular piece p.. When
the weaver desires to make a pick-out or find the pick, the
reverse lever of the shedding mechanism is thrown over and
the treadle p stepped upon. After the pick is found, the
reverse lever is put back in its original position and the
treadle pt stepped upon.

PlO. 19

32 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §63

FILLING STOP-MOTIGN

17, The Crompton loom is equipped with a filling stop-
motion of the type known as a caiter stop-motion. The
motion is so arranged that the filling fork feels for every
pick of filling, and if any pick is missing the loom is
stopped; the arrangement of this mechanism is shown in
Fig. 19. A casting q screwed to the lay of the loom sup-
ports a block Qx on a pivot ^,. Attached to this block is
a two-prong fork q^ and also a small piece q^ that slides in
a slot ^, in the casting q. The fork q^ is free to fall in a
groove ^, cut in the lay, provided that the pick of filling does
not support it and prevent this taking place. A sliding
piece q, is also supported by the casting q and is engaged
by the piece q^\ it is also connected by means of a rod q^
with a lever ^„ which is loosely supported on a stud fixed
beneath the breast beam. The lever q. is prevented from
turning in one direction by a clutch q^n attached to the stud,
but is free to move in the opposite direction. Its opposite
end is in contact with a small dog d^ fastened to a rod d,.
This rod is in contact with the shipper lever d, which
is retained in the position shown in Fig. 19 while the loom
is running, by means of the notch d^ in the slot d^.

The action of this mechanism is as follows: As the lay
moves forwards, the slide q^ is moved in the direction indi-
cated by the arrow, because the opposite end of the rod q.
remains stationary. The fork q^ will be lowered as soon as
the piece q^ comes into contact with the inclined part of the
slide. Should a pick of filling be under the fork, the fork
will be supported by it and will in turn support ^«, so that
the part <7xi of the piece q^ will clear the notch ^„ in the slide.
Should, however, the pick of filling be absent, the fork
will drop in the jjroove q^ in the lay and ^,, will engage
the notch </,,. When this happens, the slide q^ is pre-
vented from movinj^ in the direction of the arrow, and as
the lay moves forwards the lever q^ will be turned in such
a direction that it will push the piece d. and rod d^ in
the direction of its arrow. As this takes place, an inclined

§53 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 38

piece d^ on the rod d^ forces the shipper handle d out of its
retaining notch, and it springs to the end of the slot ^., dis-
connecting the power from the loom and checking its motion.

SETTING AND TIMING THE FILLING STOP-MOTION

18« In setting the filling stop-motion, the first consider-
ation is to see that the prongs of the fork g^ are not bent and
that the fork falls freely into the groove g. in the lay without
touching either side. The fork, where it is swiveled on the
pivot ^„ should be well oiled and the slide ^r and shoe g^x
engaging with it should work freely. In setting the filling
stop-motion, the lay is pushed back so that the crank-shaft
will be on the back center; the slide g^ is then placed at the
point where it will have just moved the shoe g^x up to the
highest position and thus have raised the filling fork to
its extreme height. The stand under the breast beam that
carries the stud on which the lever g. is fixed is next loosened
and adjusted so that the lever will be at right angles to the
breast beam. With the shipper handle pulled on, the clamped
collar dm on the shipper rod d^ is set against the lever ^,. In
pulling on the shipper handle to do this, it will be necessary
to either throw off the belt or temporarily disconnect the
shipping mechanism, in order not to start the loom. If the
piece gxx is not now just at the commencement of the highest
part of the slide g^, a fine adjustment can be made by means
of the clutch, or cam-collar, ^„.

PROTECTOR MOTION

19. The object of the protector motion is to check the
motion of the lay and stop the loom in case the shuttle fails
to reach the opposite box and is left in the shed. The
mechanism is arranged as follows: A protector rod ?/,
Fig. 20, carried in bearings on the front of the lay is
equipped with a spring Ux, one end of which is attached
to a collar setscrewed to the protector rod, while the other
end is fastened to the lay. This spring tends to force the
protector finger ?/„ setscrewed to the rod, toward the binder

34 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §5

Fio. 20

WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 85

of the shuttle boxes. Two daggers */„ one on each side of the
loom, are also attached to the protector rod. If the shuttle
enters the box properly » the protector finger will be pushed
forwards and the dagger will be lowered so that it will pass
under a grooved lever d^^ pivoted just beneath the breast
beam; but in case the shuttle does not enter the box, the
spring tix will keep the protector finger pressed against the
binder and the dagger will reniam in a raised position, so
that as the lay comes forwards it will engage the lever rfi,.
The end of this lever is in contact with a lever d^, carrying
a projection ^„ and pivoted on stud </„, Its lower end is
attached to the rod d^^ that slides through the casting i/i.<

Pig, 31

Setscrewed to the rod dj^xs a collar d,^ against which rests
one end of the spring £/,», the other end resting against the
casting i/i,. As the dagger comes into contact with the
lever d^^, the projection (/,* forces the shipper handle toward
the rear and out of its retaining notch, so that the loom is
slopped, the spring ^i. serving to cushion the blow of the
dagger. The cushioning device may be regulated by means
of the collar i/i., which if moved on the rod d,^ toward the
casting ^,« increases the tension of the spring and conse-
quently its cushioning effect*

The arrangement for cushioning the blow of the dagger on
the apposite side of the loom is slightly different, as shown tn

36 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §53

Fig. 21. In this case the end of the lever d^t^ is in contact with
the projection d^^ on a very strong spiral spring ^,„ which,
as the dagger strikes the lever, serves to cushion the blow of
the lay. This spring is carried in a casing ^„ so arranged
that the spring can be tightened or loosened by placing a
Avrench on the nut fl^,. on the head of the casing, loosening the
check-nut fl^,„ and turning the casing around, after which the
check-nut can be tightened, the casing being held in any
position by means of its toothed edge, as shown at </,i.

SETTING THE PROTECTOR MOTION

20. Care should be taken that the protector motion is
kept in good working order and properly adjusted; otherwise
a serious smash, involving considerable damage to the warp
and consequent loss of time, is liable to occur. In setting the
protector motion, the tension of the spring w, should be so
adjusted that the dagger will be firmly held in a raised posi-
tion so as to engage the groove in the levers ^,„ as the lay is
brought forwards. Next, with the shuttles out of the boxes,
the projector fingers //, are adjusted so that they will just touch
the binders of the shuttle boxes; the shuttleis are then placed
in the boxes, and if the protector motion is properly set, the
daggers will be lowered so as to clear the levers ^,o. The
protector motion should be adjusted so that it will work
properly in connection with each box of the loom, and if
necessary some of the binders may be bent slightly to secure
a proper movement of the protector finger.

TAKE-UP MOTION

21. The take-up motion on the Crompton loom is
arranged as shown in Fig. 22. The cloth passes over the
breast beam, under the take-up roll v, which is usually
covered with perforated steel, fillet, over a guide roll z',, and
thence down under the cloth roll .v, on which it is wmmd.
Motion is imparted to the take-up roll as follows: Attached
to the lay sword is a roller rr workinor in a slotted arm 7t\ that
imparts motion to another arm 7r,; both arms are attached to
the same stud and act as an elbow lever. Attached to u\ is a

§63 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 37

rod a/„ on the end of which is fixed a pawl w« that engages
with a ratchet gear w,. Fastened on the same shaft as the
latter is a change gear w, that meshes with a 60-tooth
gear w. fast on another shaft. Fast to this same shaft is a

Fig. 22

12-tooth gear Wio that meshes with an 80-tooth gear z/, fast
to the shaft of the take-up roll. As the lay moves for-
wards, the roller w depresses the lever w^, throwing the
arm 7r„ rod w,, and pawl w* forwards and turning the ratchet
gear forwards a distance of 1 tooth. This operates through

38 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §53

the train of gears mentioned and turns the take-up roll for-
wards; the repetition of these movements brings the cloth
down over the breast beam at a uniform rate of speed, A
double set pawl uu prevents the ratchet turning backwards
when the lay sword moves back and the rod w^ and paw! u\
are moved in the opposite direction.

In this take-up motion, the number of picks per inch in the
cloth is altered by changing the ratchet gear w, for one of
more or less teeth, as desired. Two sizes of diange gears w^,
containing either 24 or 12 teeth, may be used; if a 24-tooth
change gear is used* the number of teeth in the ratchet

PtG. 23

gear revindicates the number of picks per inch in the cloth,
but if a 12-tooth change gear is used, there will be twice
as many picks per inch in the fabric as there are teeth in
the ratchet gear.

The cloth roll Is driven by means of the gear w,,, which
besides meshing with ts also meshes w^ith the intermediate
gear ivti that drives the gear y, loose on the shaft of the
cloth rolL Attached to this gear is a drum j„ Fig. 23^fl
around which a friction band >'a fastened to the cloth roll
at >% is placed. By tightening or loosening this friction by^
means of a thumbscrew j'*, the cloth may be wound on th«

§53 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS 39

doth roll with any desired tension; but it is always best to
have the tension of the cloth between the guide roll z'l,
Fig. 22, and the cloth roll y a little less than the tension of
the cloth between the take*up roll v and the breast beam,
since, if this is done, there will be no danger of the back-
lash in the gears resulting^ in uneven cloth.

In order to disengfage the take-up motion while the loom
is being- reversed for the purpose of picking out or find-
ing a loose pick, the following arrangement is provided:
A iever w,,^ Fig* 24, is fulcrumed on a stud ?'^i» and has a
slotted portion supporting the take-up rod rf,, Attached to

this lever is a rod w, that» as shown in Fig. 18 (a), is
attached to a lever p^^* This lever is operated on by a
pin At iixed in an arm p,^ and engaging with a slot in the
ertremity of A*- Thus, as the treadle p is pressed down by
the weaver when the picking motion is disconnected » the
rod uu is raised, which results in the rod 2^',, Fig. 24, being
raised and the pawl w^ being disengaged from the ratchet
gear w,. Consequently, if the loom is run with the picking
motion disconnected, the pawl will not be in contact with
the ratchet and the cloth will not be wound down by the
take-up motion.

40 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS § 53

ir\

liBT-OFF MOTION

22. The warp let-off motion on the Crompton loom is a
regular friction let-off, with the exception that a system of

double leverage is
used. This arrange-
ment, as shown in
Fig. 25, consists of a
friction strap x^ pass-
ing around the beam
head x. One end of
this friction strap is
attached to the lever
Xt fulcrumed at x»,
while to the other
end of this lever a
rod Xj, is attached.
This rod is connected
with the end of a
lever x, fulcrumed
at jr. and supporting
at its other extremity
a rod Xn on which
weights X, are placed.
The degree of fric-
tion on the beam may
be regulated by the
number of weights
placed on the rod. If
a greatly increased
amount of friction is
desired on the beam, the rod x^, may be moved from the
extremity of the lever .r. to a position nearer its fulcrum, as
indicated by the dotted lines in the illustration. In this case,
the distance from the fulcrum to the rod being shortened, the
tension on the friction band is greatly increased.

Fig. 25

Pio. 26

42 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FANCY LOOMS §53

SEIiVAGE MOTION

23. In cases where a fabric is being woven with a loose
weave, it is desirable to use a selvage motion for producing
the selvages, since in this manner a much firmer and better
selvage can be obtained. The selvage motion applied to
the Crompton loom is shown in Fig. 26. Attached to the
bottom shaft of the loom is a segment gear b^ that engages
with another correspondingly cut gear 2 attached to a sep-
arate shaft. Fastened to this latter gear is a rod z^ that
connects with an arm z^ setscrewed to the shaft -sr,, which
extends across the loom. Attached to this shaft at each side
of the loom is a boss z^, to which is attached a strap z^. A
similar boss z. carried on the arch of the loom supports a
strap Zr and the selvage heddles z», which are also attached
to the strap z^. As the bottom shaft revolves with the gear d»
driving gear z, the connecting arm Zi produces a partial
rotary motion of the shaft z^, by means of the arm z,, which
serves to raise and lower the selvage heddles and ends.
The gear d» will drive the gear z until the portion that has
no teeth comes in contact with the portion of the gear z
that has no teeth, whereupon a dwell will be imparted to
the selvage motion. The selvage harnesses in this case
are open to their greatest extent.

TIMING THE SELVAGE MOTION

24, The principal point to be noted in timing the selvage
motion is to have the selvage ends move in unison with the
bulk of the warp, which may be accomplished by loosening
the gear ^, on the bottom shaft and turning it so that with
the lay 1 inch from the fell of the cloth the selvage ends will
just start to open with the body of the warp to form the shed,
whereupon the gear should be tightened in this position.

If the selvage ends do not rise and fall an equal distance,
so as to move with the rest of the warp uniformly, the arm z,
may be loosened and the shaft z^ turned until the selvage
heddles assume the proper position.

WOOLEN AND WORSTED
LOOM FIXING

INTRODUCTION

1. The Loom* — Among: the many machines in a textile
mill that are subject to a large number of defects in their
operation, imperfections in their product, or breakages of
their parts, perhaps none is more often at fault than the
lotHtip Imperfections in the work and diminished produc-
tion in the majority of textile machines are often due to an
inherent defect in the stock or some obvious wrong adjust-
ment of the machine; but with a loom, the trouble in the
majority of cases is with the machine itself, and in very few
instances is the cause obvious. One reason for this is that
most machines continue in operation even when producing
defective work, thus permitting one to study their action and
find out exactly what the difficulty is. With a loom, how-
ever, improper adjustments or other defects will, in a g^reat
many cases, cause the machine to instantly stop, leaving the
fixer In doubt as to the cause of its action; if started again,
it is liable to continue in operation for an indefinite length
of time and seem to be in perfect working order, but may go
wrong again as soon as the fixer's attention is withdrawn,
A very trivial defect in a loom will» in many instances, cause
the machine to operate unsatisfactorily, to stop, or make
some serious imperfection in the woven fabric. Often a
change in the humidity of the atmosphere will cause trouble
with looms that have been in practically perfect operation.

/or mfik^ of cs^jfrfght, s^ pog* tmmediatity UU&wtng the iitU page

155

01— II

2 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING §66

The reason for this sensitiveness of a loom lies, of course,
in the great variety and complication of the movements
necessary in weaving machinery. Many of these movements
also are crude and hence particularly liable to give trouble,
as, for instance, the picking motion, which perhaps requires
more care than any other part of a loom. Although this
motion has been greatly improved in the form and con-
struction of its parts, it has undergone little change in prin-
ciple since the introduction of the first power loom. It is a
powerful and noisy mechanism driving a heavy shuttle with
great force, and all for the purpose of laying across the loom
a pick of filling weighing frequently less than a grain. The
amount of energy expended is out of all proportion to the
amount actually required; yet no improvement in the principle
of picking seems possible without adding greatly to the com-
plication of the mechanism and impairing its practical value.

Other parts of a loom also are prone to give trouble —
some on account of their delicacy and sensitiveness, others
because of wear and improper care and adjustment — while
all require accurate setting and timing, a slightly wrong
adjustment of one part sufficing in many instances to render
valueless the accurate adjustment of other parts. It will be
found also that in many cases a combination of several slight
faults in adjustments, not one of which is important in itself,
will interfere with the operation of the loom. Each and
every part of a loom has its particular work to perform, and
yet each part must at all times act in harmony with the other
parts; consequently, to lay down hard and fast rules for
overcoming any one of the many difficulties that are sure to
confront a loom fixer is impossible. However, by consid-
ering those difficulties that are most frequently met, and by
carefully studying the different circumstances that may cause
them, some help may be given to the student.

2. The lioom Fixer. — Since looms are so peculiarly
liable to get out of order, every mill maintains a body of
men known as loom fixers, each of whom has charge of a
number of looms, known as a section. The number of looms

}55 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING

^
^

in a section depends to a great extent on the kind of looms
and the variety of cloth being woven, Generally, in a mill
raaking fancy woolen or worsted goods one fixer has charge
of from sixteen to twenty looms; this number may vary in
different mills according to the class of fabric being woven*
The duties of a loom fixer are, briefly, to keep the looms in
his section running and producing cloth of good quality j he
is expected to remedy all faults in the operation of the
looms and to make all ordinary repairs, although his duties
should be confined to fixing and he should not be required to
repair looms that need the services of a skilled machinist; he
is also required to set up and start new looms, and to put the
warps into the looms and make them ready for the weaver*

A g^ood loom fixer occupies a position of importance in a
weave room; for on him » as much as on any one else, depends
both the quantity and quality of the cloth produced. To be
successful, he should be a fair mechanic and a good weaver.
Not only must a loom fixer understand how the various parts
of a loom should be adjusted in order to run to the best
advantage, but he should also thoroughly understand the
manner in which these parts are assembled, in order that he
may remove and replace broken parts of a loom with as little
loss of time as possible. It should be the object of every
(ixer to see that the looms in his section attain the highest
possible percentage of production, and in order to accomplish
this he should always be careful to have the loom stopped for
repairs as little as possible. He should see that the weavers
keep the looms well oiled» since if the parts that are con-
stantly working against each other are allowed to become
dry the wear on the loom and the amount of fixing necessary
is greatly increased.

In those mills that are constantly changing from one class
of goods to another, a fixer should study the different fabrics
that are being woven and note just what conditions are
necessary to weave each to the best advantage; cloths of
different weights and woven with different yarns and weaves
require in many cases different settings of the Various parts
of the looms. A good fixer will also carefully ascertain the

4 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING §55

cause of any trouble with the operation of the loom before
attempting to remedy it. He will never alter various parts
nor change the adjustment or setting of the diflEerent motions
with the expectation of remedying the difficulty by chance.
When a loom has been running perfectly for some time and
all at once commences to exhibit some fault, it is evident that
some one thing, and that probably something of a trivial
nature, is the trouble, and by carefully ascertaining what this
is in the first place the fixer avoids changing parts of the
loom that are perfectly adjusted and well adapted to the work
in hand; when the cause of a defect is found it is generally
but a moment's work to remedy it.

Whenever a new difficulty is encountered, the fixer should
study the case carefully until he finds the exact cause. If
new difficulties are not thoroughly mastered at the start, the
fixer learns nothing, and when the same difficulty arises the
second time there will be the same trouble in fixing the loom.

A good loom fixer will constantly be on the lookout for
worn parts on the looms of his section, and be ready to
replace these when necessary. By this means breakage of
parts will be prevented, in many cases serious smashes
avoided, and the fixer will not be so much sought after by
the weaver. This will be found the cheaper method in the
end, since while a certain small part may be replaced at
slight expense, if it breaks while the loom is in operation
other parts may be broken or injured.

ERECTING AND STARTING liOOMS

3. In starting new looms, it is first necessary to decide
on their arrangement in the weave room. The usual custom
is to have two rows of looms face a narrow alley, in which
the weaver stands; a wider alley is left between the backs of
two rows so as to allow the beams to be easily brought to
the looms on a truck when it becomes necessary to replace
an empty beam with a full one. If the looms are right- and
left-handed they should be alternated in each row, so that the
driving belts of two looms will come together.

§55 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING 5

After the general arrangement of the looms is decided,
each loom must be lined with the driving shaft so that the
belt will run true; this may be accomplished in the following
manner: A plumb-line is dropped from two somewhat dis-
tant points on the driving shaft and from the points thus
found on the floor a distance is measured equal to the dis-
tance that the looms are to be placed from the shaft.
Between the two points thus obtained a mark may be made
on the floor, with a chalk line, that will be exactly parallel
with the driving shaft; if a permanent mark is desired, it may
be scratched on the floor with a knife. The looms are now
arranged with their feet just touching this line, in which posi-
tion they will be perfectly square with the shaft. A spirit
level should next be placed on the breast and back beams and
on the loom sides and the loom carefully leveled, so that
the crank-shaft and bottom shaft will not bind in their boxes.
This may be accomplished by placing packing of the required
thickness under the loom feet, after which the loom should be
securely fastened to the floor with coach screws, or lagscrcws.

The loom is now ready to be belted; to obtain the length of
belt required any convenient method may be adopted, though
it should be borne in mind that as new belts will stretch in the
course of a few days, the belt should be cut 1 or 2 inches short,
so as to be rather tight at first. The best way to fasten loom
belts is by means of malleable-iron belt clasps, since when
fastened in this manner they wear longer; and in addition, a
belt with a belt clasp can be placed on the loom in a mere
fraction of the time that is required to lace it. Care should be
taken in putting on a belt clasp to prevent its being flattened;
the belt should be hammered and not the clasp. It is a good
plan to place a piece of leather or wood on the Im^U when
fastening the clasp; this will prevent turning the [xjints of
the clasp, and also will prevent injury to the l>elt.

Belts should be run with the grain, or hair, side next to the
pulleys. Loom belts should be neither U}^j tight nor too loose,
since in the former case the loom will run very rigidly, while
if the belt is too loose it is liable to slip and cause a loss of
power. When the loom runs rigidly, every slight variation of

6 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING §55

speed is immediately felt by the loom, and it is also difficult
to adjust the different mechanisms, especially the picking
motion, so that they will run smoothly and easily. On the
other hand, when the belt is loose, it will slip when the power
is most needed, that is, when the loom is just starting to pick.
If the belt slips at this point, the shuttle will receive a weak
impulse, and, as explained later, serious difficulties arise from
this cause. If the belt is very loose, the loom will run with
a variable motion that is detrimental to good work.

Loom belts should be kept clean and pliable, and for this
reason should be occasionally cleaned by lightly holding a
piece of fine card clothing against them so as to remove the
accumulation of dirt and gummy matter. For convenience in
holding, the card clothing may be attached to a small piece of
wood. Crossed belts do not require this treatment, as they
are kept clean by the face of the belt being constantly rubbed
where the belt crosses. To keep them pliable, belts should
be frequently dressed with either liquid or bar belt dressing;
castor oil is one of the best dressings for leather belts.

4. After the belt is on the loom, a reed should be placed
in the lay, empty shuttles in the boxes, harnesses connected
with the shedding mechanism, and box and harness chains
put on; the loom should then be thoroughly oiled and
allowed to run for half a day without a warp. This allows
the machine to become thoroughly limbered up, and if it is
carefully watched during this time many minor adjustments
can be made and bolts tightened that would otherwise cause
more or less trouble after the warp was in the loom and
cloth was being woven. In running a loom in this manner,
it will be necessary to fill the groove in the lay with waste,
so that the filling fork cannot drop into it and stop the loom.

PUTTING IN WARPS

5. It is the fixer's duty to put warps in new looms and
also to remove the harnesses and warp beam from old looms
and put in new warps. In puttinj^f in a warp, after having
removed the empty harnesses and beam, the full warp, with

WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING

N
^

the hamesges and reed attached, is brought to the loom on a
truck especially designed for that purpose* One of the
journals of the beam is nin directly on to the bearing pre-
pared for it at the back of the loom and the other is then
lifted into its bearing. The harnesses and reed are lifted
over the whip roll and supported by two strips of board so
placed that they rest on the whip roll and reed cap. The
harnesses are then hooked to the straps that connect them
with the top of the narness jacks and these strips of board
removed. One let-off friction band is placed around the
beam head, so as to hold the warp beam steady, and bunches
of warp yarn are then tied to the aproii; this is a strip
of strong cloth long enough to be passed around the take-up
roll and over the breast beam; it is either made with holes
in it or is torn in strips at the free end. On tying the
bunches of yarn to the apron, care must be taken that all
the ends are drawn forwards with equal tension before being
tied. The beam is then loosened and turned forwards and
the warp drawn forwards a short distance by turning the
ratchet gear by hand. The reed is set into the groove in
the lay and the reed cap set down on top of the reed and
securely fastened, care being taken to place the reed in the
proper position with relation to the warp.

The harnesses are carefully evened by hooking them in
the correct holes In the straps that connect them with the
harness jacks, and they are then connected, by means of
straps underneath, with the other end of the jacks. After
putting both friction bands on the t>eam, the warp may be
placed in the temples and the loom turned over a few picks
by hand, after which a shuttle with some coarse filling may
be placed in the loom and a few inches of cloth woven; a
bobbin containing white yam should then be placed in the
shuttle (if the warp is dark) and a heading of 3 or 4 inches
woven; this will greatly assist in showing mistakes in the
drawing in of the warp, if there are any. If the warp is
white, a bobbin containing dark yarn should be placed in the
shuttle. After this is done, all the harnesses should be
dropped and the lay pushed as far back as it will go; each

8 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING §56

harness should then be raised io turn, so as to afiEord an
opportunity to inspect the yarn and to see if each thread is
in its proper place. When this has been attended to properly,
the right kind of filling can be put in the shuttles, the picks
per inch regulated by means of the take-up motion, the ten-
sion of the let-off motion adjusted, and if the proper harness
and box chains are on the loom it is ready for the weaver.
The fixer should watch the loom for 5 or 10 minutes after it
is taken by the weaver, and if everything is going all right
it can then be left in the weaver's charge.

LOOM MECHANISMS AND THEIR
DEFECTS

SHEDDING MECHANISM

HARNESS SKIPS

6. As a general rule, the shedding^ mechanism of

fancy woolen and worsted looms when once set and adjusted
properly gives but very little trouble, especially if the loom
is not an old one and the various parts are but little worn.
When, however, a loom has been in operation for a consider-
able length of time and the different parts have become
worn and loose, there is often more or less difficulty in
making it properly perform its work. This difficulty is
usually shown by the loom making what are known as
harness skips,

A harness skip is an imperfection in the cloth caused by
a certain harness (or possibly there may be more than one
harness that is giving trouble) failing to rise or fall as
required by the pattern chain, thus allowing the warp yam
that is controlled by that harness to float over or under one
or several picks that it should not.

On a Knowles loom, harness skips are sometimes due to
the lock knife failing to hold the ends of the vibrator levers
securely in position. This may be caused either by the

§55 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING 9

knife itself being very badly woro^ in which case it should be
replaced, or by the ends of the vibrator levers themselves
becoming worn. When the work is heavy and the strain on
the harnesses in being lifted is severe, the tension of the
spring on the lock knife may be insufficient to hold it in posi-
tion. It often happens also that the rod that supports the
back ends of the vibrator levers is bent or loose so that tlie
riser on the pattern chain fails to lift the vibrator gear into
the top cylinder gear properly; or if the rod is bent back-
wards in the center, certain of the vibrator levers may slip
off the lock knife* In the case of very old looms, the teeth
on the vibrator gears or on the cylinder gears, especially the
starting, or first, teeth, become worn so that the vibrator
gear is not fully turned but slips off and rebounds when the
harness is partly moved, Again, the vibrator levers them-
selves may become bent so as to bind against each other or
in the comb, or guides, through which they pass. In this
case the vibrator lever is slow in dropping when it is required
to lower the harness, and sometimes fails to assume its lower
position in time to allow the vibrator gear to properly
engage the bottom cylinder gear. It frequently happens
also that a spindle in the pattern chain becomes bent, which
is a very common cause of harness skips, as well as being
liable to make a serious smash in the head-motion.

Occasionally the springs on the followers that press down
the vibrator levers will drop out, and harness skips will
often occur from this cause. Other parts, such as rivets and
nuts, will sometimes work out and become caught in the
head-motion so as to make a harness skip. Usually when
this is the case, only one harness skip is made, and then the
loose part drops through to the floor and gives no further
trouble^ at least for some time, although some future diffi-
culty may apprise the fixer that a particular rivet or nut is
gone, and he will then understand what made the harness
skip for which he could not find the cause. Sometimes a
riser on the pattern chain may become broken or mutilated
so that it fails to raise the vibrator lever sufficiently to allow
the vibrator gear to properly engage the top cylinder gear,

10 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING §56

7. Often harness skips are occasioned by a combination
of circumstances, any one of which alone would not cause
any great difficulty; for instance, when several gears are
loose or when the gear-teeth are worn so that two worn
parts come together; also if the adjustments of the various
parts in the head-motion are not made so that the mechanism
will run smoothly a great deal of vibration will be occasioned
and the head-motion will run in a jerky manner, which will
sometimes cause the vibrator gears to rebound and harness
skips to result.

On a Crompton loom, harness skips are sometimes occa-
sioned by the jack-hooks slipping off from either the lifter
or depressor. This may be caused by the edge of the
depressor becoming worn and rounded, or by the notch,
or hook, in the jack-hook becoming worn;^ occasionally also
the spring that forces down the jack-hook so that it will
engage with the lifter becomes broken and drops out, in
which case the hook often fails to engage with the lifter,
and allows the harness to remain down when it should be
raised. Sometimes the rivet of the jack-hook will become
worn so that the jack-hook will have some play, which
will cause it to slip off the lifter or depressor. Occasionally
the jack-hook will become gummed up with dried oil and
dirt so that it will not fall freely and engage the lifter.
It sometimes happens also that stiff links in the pattern
chain will cause the chain to ride the chain cylinder, which
may result in a harness skip. Crooked bars in the pattern
chain or broken risers will cause difficulty from harness skips,
as will also various other minor causes, which are usually
readily apparent.

When a harness skip occurs, the best way to find the
cause of the difficulty is to observe which harness is failing
to work properly, and then trace back its connection to the
head-motion and see that all parts are properly adjusted and
that they are not worn or bent or out of their proper
positions. If the connections of the harness in the head-
motion appear to be all right, the risers on the pattern
chain that control that harness should be examined. If this

156 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING 11

method Is followed, the cause of the harness skip will be
quickly observed In almost every case. The greatest diffi-
culty with harness skips is usually found when the cloth that
is being woven is very heavy, and the strain on the shedding
motion in raising the harnesses very great. Harness skips
are particularly liable to occur when the work is heavy and a
large number of harnesses are required to be moved on
every pick; the difficulty is' increased also if the loom is
old and worn. It is very infrequent that any difficulty is
ejEperienced with harness skips where light fabrics are being
woven* Occasionally^ when an old loom gives a great deal
of trouble with harness skips, it is advisable to take it apart
and replace all parts that are worn, tighten all loose parts »
and generally overhaul it until it is as nearly in perfect con-
dition as is possible under the circumstances. This will be
found in the end to save considerable o£ the fixer's time,
where a loom has been mnning so long that the shedding
mechanism has become loose and shaky,

8* In strapping the harnesses to the jacks of the shedding
.motion it is advisable to strap them rather tight when the
[lift on the harness is severe, and somewhat looser when a
flight cloth is being woven. This is a point in which a con-
siderable amount of judgment must be exercised, and the
best results can only be obtained by practical experience.
Care should be taken to put the same tension on the straps
of each harness, so that all will rise and fall together, with
no lost motion in the case of any harness.

It may sometimes be found that on heavy weaves, if the
harnesses are not strapped tight, there wilt be considerable
lost motion in the harness straps; when this is the case it will
sometimes cause the stirrups to jump down a notch or two
on the jacks, which of course will result in giving the har*
ness a wrong position. In cases where heavy work is being
constantly run it is advisable to use iacking^ stirrups; these
are so arranged that the stirrup is locked in its position and
thus cannot move from one notch of the harness lever to
another.

12 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING §56

The harnesses usually are well oiled before being placed
in the loom, so that as they rise and fall they will not be
chafed by rubbing against each other; sometimes when har-
nesses are very dry, the frames are much worn from this
cause.

WHIP ROLIi

9. The relation of the height of the wMp roll to that of
the breast beam of the loom is of importance in governing
the shedding of the loom and the appearance of the cloth.
Generally speaking, the position of the whip roll should be
such that a straight line drawn from it to the breast beam
will pass through the center of the shed. In this case the
line of the warp will be exactly level when the harnesses
through which it is drawn are in a central position. In some
cases, however, it is of advantage to alter the position of the
whip roll so that the warp line will pass through either the
upper or lower part of the shed. For example, suppose that
a light fabric is being woven with a simple weave and that it
is desired to have a well-covered surface on the face of the
goods. In this case the whip roll can be raised slightly,
which will result in the tension of the warp yarn in the upper
shed being slacker than that in the lower shed, so that the warp
yarn will spread and give a well-covered surface to the fabric;
whereas, if the tension of the warp in the upper shed is the
same or greater than that in the bottom shed, the cloth will
have a tendency to appear bare and wiry. On other occa-
sions it might be advisable to lower the whip roll; for instance,
in some cases where a very fibrous warp is used and the
bulk of the warp remains on the lower shed on almost every
pick, it will be found that there is some difficulty in getting
a clear shed. In order to remedy this the whip roll may be
lowered slightly, which will result in the warp yam in the
upper shed being tighter than that in the lower shed so that
it will rise well and form a clear shed.

§55 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING 13

CHAIN STCTFF

10* The patter II -chain and tiox-chalii stuff, including
the risers, washers, spindleSi links* and cotters, should be
kept in a place reserved for it, and care should be taken to
see that it is not injured, especially that the spindles do not
become bent. The pattern and toK chains of a loom should
be well oiledi since if not, there is danger of their bunching
up on the chain cylinder nnder the vibrators and causing a
serious smash in the head-motion. In order to prevent this,
the gear on the chain-cylinder shaft is usually fastened with
a soft setscrew, so that if the chain becomes jammed the set-
screw will shear off and prevent more serious damage. A
few of these setscrews should be kept on hand, so that if
one is spoiled and is too short to use again » it may be
replaced by a new one* Under no conditions should it
be replaced by an ordinary set screw, becanse if this is done
and the chain becomes jammed again, it will usually result
in all the teeth being stripped from the small pinion gear
that drives the gear on the chain-cylinder shaft in addition
to putting a strain on the loom that may result in other
parts being broken or damaged.

BOX MOTION

11. The box motions of fancy woolen and worsted
looms, like the shedding motions, .seldom give very serious
trouble when once properly set and adjusted, if their various
parts are not w^om or otherwise defective. They must be
properly timed, so that the boxes will be completely moved
before the loom starts to pick, and so that they will not start
to move until the shuttle is well boxed, Each box, when it
is called, should be brought in perfect line with the race
plate, and in order to determine if the boxes are thus adjusted
a straightedge should be placed on the race plate so as to
extend into the box. By this means any difference in the
height of the box and the race plate may readily be delected,
The boxes themselves should usually be perfectly leveU

14 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING §55

although some fixers prefer to have the back end of the box
a trifle, say i inch, higher than the front. If they are not
level, they may be made so by bending the lifting, or box,
rod. When doing this, care should be taken to bend the rod
as near the boxes as possible, and not at a lower point. A
very slight bend will be found to be sufficient, and this
method is preferable to that of adjusting the guides, since,
if the adjustment of the guides is changed, the boxes are
very liable to bind when dropping.

BOX JUMPING

12. One difficulty that is sometimes met with in connec-
tion with the box motion is known as box JumplngT) though
it does not occur very often on modern looms. By jumping
it is meant that the boxes have an irregular movement and
do not rise and fall smoothly. The box may start to move
slowly and then finish its movement with a jump, or it may
start with a jump but finish its movement so slowly as
barely to come in line with the race plate in proper time.
This defect is usually caused by some lost motion in the
connection of the boxes with the box motion; it is some-
times caused by an improper adjustment of the box segment
cylinders. Sometimes, also, a lay that is loose and shaky
will cause the boxes to move with a jumping movement. It
occasionally happens that when a large number of harnesses
are run on heavy work, the head-motion will run with a jerky
motion; this sometimes causes the boxes to move irregularly,
especially in their downward movement.

SHUTTLE SMASHES

13. Sometimes the shuttle will not be clear of the picker,
or will project from the box enough to catch on the lay, when
the boxes are dropping; this may cause the boxes to jump,
but more frequently will cause a shvittle smash. When a
shuttle prevents the boxes dropping, if the next shuttle is
driven from the other side of the loom it will not find an
empty box, but will be stopped by the shuttle, that is caught,

§55 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING 15

with the result that when the lay beats up it will cause the
shuttle to break out the warp. Other causes of shuttle
smashes are mistakes in the box chain, broken risers in the
box chain, shuttles placed in the wrong boxes by the weaver,
and imperfect working of the box vibrators and cylinders.

PICKING MOTION

14, Probably no part of a power loom gives more diffi-
culty than the picking^ motion, nor is any motion of the
loom so hard to keep in good running order. It is. impos-
sible to get the best results if the pick is "harsh and jerky,
while on the other hand, a loom that picks easily will require
far less fixing than one that does not. To procure a smooth,
even pick necessitates delicate and accurate adjustment of
the various parts of the picking motion, and so many differ-
ent parts must be properly regulated that the fixer will often
overlook the one vital point. A very great strain and also
considerable wear is brought on the loom on account of the
picking movement; the shuttles, picker sticks, straps, picking
balls, shoes, and all other parts connected with this motion
are either constantly wearing out or breaking, and if the best
of care is not taken the cost of these supplies will soon
become excessive. Much of this wear and strain is caused
by the harshness of the pick, consequently the easier and
smoother the picking motion can be made to run, the better
it will be for the loom; but even when all that is possible has
been done, there will still be considerable wear and tear that
it is impossible to overcome, owing to the imperfection of
the principle of picking;

The picker stick in delivering the shuttle, besides supply-
ing force enough to send the shuttle across the loom, must
also overcome the resistance of the binder pressing against
.the side of the shuttle. As soon as the shuttle leaves the
box, however, this additional strain is removed, and conse-
quently power that has been exerted in pushing the shuttle
from the box will now be free to act on other parts of the
loom, so that the speed of the loom will have a tendency to

16 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING §65

suddenly increase, on the same principle that a body, having
a force acting on it while restrained by friction, will move
rapidly in the direction of the force applied if that friction is
suddenly removed. This is sometimes known as the reaction
of a loom, and it can be easily seen that the more of a drag
there is to a pick, the greater will be this reaction, and con-
sequently the greater will be the wear and tear not only on
the parts of the loom in direct connection with the picking
motion, but also on all parts of the loom. This reaction
is, of course, more noticeable on light than on heavy looms,
because a heavy loom tends, by its momentum, to run
more uniformly.

15. The first requirement of the picking motion may be
said to be the sending of the shuttle through the shed in a
very short period of time; the second is to give the shuttle
sufficient power to enter the box. Thus, regulating the
power of the pick and the tension of the binders on the
shuttle are important features in governing the running of
the loom. The tighter the box, the stronger must be the
pick; and the stronger the pick, the tighter must be the
box. It will be seen, therefore, that these two settings
react on each other, and in regulating the power of the
pick it should be the aim of every fixer to give it just suf-
ficient power to accomplish its work and no more; the ten-
sion of the box can then be regulated to correspond to the
power of the pick.

In setting the picking motion so as to obtain a smooth and
easy-running pick, particular attention should be paid to the
adjustment of the picking shoes. These should be so set
that their curve will conform with, or be tangent to, the circle
described by the picking ball in revolving around the bottom
shaft. If the blow of the picking ball is too sudden, and if
when the ball first strikes the picking shoe it knocks the latter
down too rapidly, the pick will be harsh and a smooth motion
will be difficult to obtain. Almost every fixer has some special
rule for setting the picking shoes, but generally a plumb-line
is dropped over the bottom shaft and the picking shoe moved

§5.5 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING 17

> on the picking shaft until its point just touches this plumb-
ae. On equally geared looms, where a longer picking shoe
Ts used, it is generallsr customary to allow the point of the
picking shoe to project about 1 inch beyond this plumb-line>
After fastening the shoes, the loom should be turned so that
the crank-shaft is on its top center » and each pick ball should
be adjusted so that it just starts to move the shoe and the
picker stick. On equally geared looms both pick balls
should be set so that they start to move the picker stick at
estactly the same time* On unequally geared looms, where
there are two pairs of pick balls to adjust, each pair must be
made to pick together and at the proper time. Great care
should be taken in setting these parts also to see that the
picking, or shoe, shaft is not bent, since this will be apt to
make a harsh pick. The shoe shaft should be set level, at
least when starting to set the picking motion, although in
lome cases it may be desirable to raise or lower either end
in order to slightly alter the strength of the pick.

In adjusting the picking motion, the most important point
to bear in mind is to have as little power as is actually neces-
sary to drive the shuttle across the loom; if this is done the
binders will not be required to press so hard against the
shuttle in order to hold it in the box and prevent rebounding,
Raising the back end of the picking, or shoe, shaft tends to
make the pick stronger during the latter part of the move-
fnent of the picker stick, while raising the front end of the
picking shaft tends to make the pick stronger and quicker
during the first part of the movement of the picker stick.
Lowering the front end has about the same effect as raising
the back end, and lowering the back end has a similar effect
to raising the front end, although in both these cases the shoe is
drawn away from the picker ball slightly and the power of
the pick as a whole is decreased, whereas raising either end
of the picking shaft tends to bring the shoe nearer the pick-
ing ball and consequently to generally increise the power of
the pick- Sliding the picking shoe forward s increases the
power of the pick, and moving it backwards softens the blow
of the picker on the shuttle*

SI— 12

18 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING §65

ADJUSTING THE L.UG STRAP

16. Around the lug strap that connects the sweep, or
picking, arm with the picker stick is usually placed a small
leather strap, which is fastened to the picker stick by means
of a screw. This strap serves to hold the lug strap in posi-
tion, and by adjusting its height on the picker stick more or
less power is given to the pick, since if the lug strap is raised
on the picker stick the power of the pick is decreased, and if
it is lowered the shuttle will be driven with greater force
across the loom. The normal position of the lug strap
should be such that it is level, but of course in some instances
it is desirable to raise it a little to decrease the pick or lower
it a little to increase the pick. If possible, however, the lug
strap should never be connected to the picker stick on a
lower level than to the sweep stick, since when this is the
case it has a tendency to slide up on the picker stick as the
loom picks. This is due to the force coming from above
the point where it is connected and is very liable to result in
a weak pick, the shuttle not receiving sufficient power to
reach the opposite box. In placing lug straps on a loom,
care should be taken that they have a little play. Under no
condition should they be tight when the picker stick is at
rest at the outer end of the box.

When the picker stick is brought back to its extreme posi-
tion against the back end of the box, it should rest against
a roll of cloth placed in the back of its slide. At the other
end of the box a strap is threaded on the picker spindle
to serve as a bunter and prevent the damage to the picker
and picker stick that would occur at this end of their move-
ment, if the iron end of the box were not protected. The
length of the movement of the picker stick, or its sweep,
may be regulated by the picking arm on the picking shaft.
The sweep should be so adjusted that the picker will be
moved to a point about 2 inches from the bunter. If the
sweep is too long, the picker stick will be broken when the
loom picks.

§a5 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING 19

SETTING BJNDERS

17. The shuttle is sent with such force from one side of
the loom to the other that some arrangement must be pro-
vided by means of which it can be gradually checked instead
of being brought to an abrupt stop, since if this is not done,
not only will the picker and picker stick wear out much more
quickly, but what is still more objectionable, the shuttle in
striking the picker will rebound* If the shuttle rebounds,
the picker, when brought forwards to drive it across tlie loom
again, will have to move a considerable distance before com-
ing in contact with the shuttle, and as a result the force of
the blow will be greatly lessened and the shuttle will prob-
ably not reach the opposite box in time to prevent the shed
closing on it. The btnder is the movable side of the
box that presses against the shuttle so as to produce
this retardation.

Many methods of adjusting binders have been adopted,
the one aim in all cases being to set the binder in such a
manner that the shuttle on entering the box will receive a
uniform and gradual check* In order to obtain this result
the shuttle should commence to press against the binder
only when its widest part comes in contact with that part of
the binder that projects into the box. It should then steadily
press out the binder until that part of the shuttle that first
came in contact with the binder has reached the other end of
the part of the binder that projects into the box. When set
in this manner the binder will present its full face to the side
of the shuttle when the shuttle is at rest in the box. If the
binder is set too loose, the shuttle is liable to rebound; and
if set too tight, additional power will be required of the
picking motion to drive the shurcre into the box* The pres-
sure of the binder on the shuttle must be regulated to
correspond to the power of the pick, and if the power of the
pick is properly regulated so that it is just sufficient to
property drive the shuttle across the loom, a very light
tension on the binder wiU be su£gcient to hold the shuttle in
the box.

20 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING §55

Sometimes when the shuttle rebounds, the tension of the
binder may be increased by bending the binder spring, while
at other times more spring on the protector motion will
remedy the defect if it occurs in several boxes. The binder
should be bent should it fail to hold the shuttle because
the full face of the binder does not touch it. When doing
this, the binder should be taken out and the parts that are
worn bright located; then strike the binder with a hammer
on the opposite side at a point midway between the bright
spots, or in other words, at a point opposite to where the
binder fails to touch the shuttle.

SHUTTMES

18. In picking out a set of shuttles for a loom, care
should be taken to secure those that are the same size and
weight; therefore, each shuttle should be tested by running a
pair of calipers along its length; it should be also noted
if both ends of the shuttle are of the same width. The
shuttles should be weighed accurately, in order to ascertain
that their weights are exactly alike.

After the shuttles have been run for some time they will
become worn, and consequently their size and weight will
not remain exactly the same; then it will often be found that
certain shuttles will not be checked well, or perhaps this may
occur only in certain boxes, while in other boxes they may be
found to work correctly. To overcome this it is necessary
to true the shuttles. To do this some fixers use a plane, but
many rub the shuttles on a strip of coarse sandpaper, which
may be tacked to the bench. Either method will answer the
purpose, but care should be taken to keep all the shuttles the
same size and weight. Considerable trouble results from
the liability of the shuttles to accumulate dirt on the sides,
which causes them to stick as they enter or leave the box;
consequently, they should always be kept clean. Shuttles
often become chafed owing to rough places at the mouth of
the box, which is often aggravated by the shuttle being
thrown slightly crooked; the cause of the chafing should be

§55 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FLXfNG 21

removed and the shuttle smoothed with sandpaper. Fre-
quently the points of a shuttle become broken, either through
striking another shuttle or some other cause* In this case
the point of the shuttle should be ground down. Shuttles
should always be kept smooth and all bruised spots elimi-
nated with sandpaper. The fixer should always see that the
shuttle pin does not project from the shuttle and also that any
screws used to hold the shuttle spring in position are securely
tightened. A brush of yam or a piece of flannel or felt should
he inserted in the shuttles, so as to cause sufficient tension
on the filling.

FILLING STOP-MOTION

19* The finiii^r stoii-motlon, while its parts are very
sensitive and delicate, is not frequently the cause of any
great amount of difficulty^ Sometimes the fork is not raised
high enough to clear the shuttle, so that when the shuttle i$
driven across the loom it will strike the prongs and bend
them. Occasionally also the groove in the lay is not deep
enough, or it may become filled with lint* dirt> and other
accamulations. so that the fork will not drop freely into it^
and consequently when the filling breaks the loom will not
stop. The remedy for this is obvious-

The filling stop-motion should be kept well oiled, and care
should be taken to see that its parts are properly adjusted and
work freely and that none of them are loose. Sometimes the
filling stop-motion will fail to stop the loom w^hen the filling
breaks, on account of the dagger rebounding and failing to
engage the knock-of! finger. The end of the dagger or the
notch in the knock-off finger becomes worn sometimes so iltat
the dagger will slip out of the notch even if it engages prop-
erly in the first instance. On the Crompton filling stop-motion
the loom may fail to stop because the slide that lifts the fork
is not properly set, the fork failing to fall quickly enough.

Sometimes difficulty is occasioned with the filling stop-
motion marking the cloth; this is eHpecially noticeable when
the fabrics are of light weight or of a light color. Wlien thi^
is the case, the fork should be so set as not to interfere with

22 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING §55

the cloth in any way, and it should be noticed if the prongs
of the fork are perfectly straight. Sometimes with fine
filling the weight of the fork will press the filling into the
groove in the lay so far as to make a little slack, which will
then kink the filling at that point.

TAKE-UP MOTION

20. The take-up motion rarely gives any trouble, but
sometimes it will be found that the throw of the take-up
pawl is not properly adjusted, and the loom will therefore
occasionally take up two teeth instead of one. When this
is the case the pawl should be adjusted so that the ratchet
gear will be moved only one tooth at each pick of the loom.
Care should be taken also to have the tension of the cloth
between the cloth roll and the take-up roll somewhat less
than between the take-up roll and the breast beam, since
although there is but little backlash in the gears, it is some-
times found on light fabrics that the backlash will be suffi-
cient to cause the cloth to be slightly uneven. All the gears
of the take-up motion should mesh perfectly with each other,
neither too hard nor too light, in order to obtain even cloth.
Care should be taken also that all gears are fastened securely
when necessary. Take-up rolls that are covered with sand-
paper sometimes become so smooth that they fail to grip
the cloth securely, especially in the case of heavy fabrics
woven with considerable tension. When in this condition
they should be recovered; they can be made to run a little
while longer, however, by changing them into a loom of the
other hand so that their direction of rotation will be reversed.

liET-OFF MOTION

21. In regulating the let-off motion care should be
taken to have the warp tight enough so that there will not
be any great amount of slack cloth on the breast beam when
the lay beats up. When watching a loom run it will some-
times be noted that as the lay strikes the fell of the cloth it

t^o WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING 23

causes considerable slack in the cloth when the reed comes
in contact with it. To remedy this it is advisable in most
cases to add some weight to the let-off motion.

Trouble with the let-off motion is usually confined to light-
weigfht fabrics and is generally shown by uneven cloth, which
is caused by the friction sticking fast and then letting off all at
once. This trouble is greatly aggravated by damp weather
or by a damp weave room. When the let-off motion will
not work smoothly, the friction strap should be taken off
and the leather with which it is faced thoroughly cleaned.
A new strip of cloth should then be placed around the beam
head and a little black lead rubbed upon it to prevent sticking*

GENERAL LOOM FIXING

BANGING OFF

22, One of the most frequent difficulties that a fixer has
to contend with, and one that is probably due to as many
different causes as any other, is known as baDglng off,
or sometimes as ftslammln^, A loom is said to bang off or
slam when for any cause it is stopped by the dagger of the
pro! ec tor motion. This takes place every time the shuttle
fails to reach the opposite box, either on account of its
meeting with some obstruction or on account of its not
receiving sufficient force from the picker stick* It will be
seen that when this takes place a very great strain is brought
on the various parts of the loom, since the momentum of the
loom is checked so suddenly that the shock must necessarily
be very severe* This being the case, various parts of the
loom are liable to be broken If the loom bangs off fre-
quently, and while in some cases these breaks may be readily
fixed, as a general rule a break resulting from the shock of
banging off will cause the loom to be stopped for consider-
able time for repairs. It sometimes happens that the shock
is so great that the teeth of the gears on the crank-shaft

24 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING §55

and bottom shaft will be broken, owing to the tendency of
the gears to revolve after the loom is stopped. The liability
of this happening may be greatly lessened by having the
teeth on these gears sufficiently meshed into each other;
because if the teeth merely touch each other at their points,
the concussion due to the sudden stopping of the loom will
be much more liable to cause breakage than if the teeth are
properly geared. In other cases it sometimes happens that
one or both of the lay swords will be broken, since the
movement of the lay is instantly checked when the loom
bangs ofiE and its weight and momentum will be sufficient
to break the swords. The crank-shaft is sometimes broken,
as is also the side frame of the loom, the protector casting
beneath the breast beam, and various other parts.

23. A great variety of causes tend to make a loom bang
ofiE, and when seeking to remedy this difficulty it is first
desirable to see if the loom is picking properly. Turn the
loom over and see if it picks on time. It may be found that
the shoe on the picking shaft is loose or badly worn or that
the picking ball is loose. Sometimes the stud that supports
the picking ball or the hole in the picking ball will be badly
worn; sometimes, also, the picking ball will be worn flat in
places. Such things as these result in a weak pick, and the
shuttle when it is driven across the loom fails to reach the
opposite box in time to prevent the protector motion from
operating. Sometimes banging off is caused by the shuttles
being covered with a gummy grease, which prevents their
entering the box freely. Sometimes also the binder will be
too tight or too loose, which will cause the shuttle to
rebound and then on the next pick a sufficient impulse will
not be given to the shuttle to cause it to reach the opposite
box. The picker stick may bind, which will also occasion a
weak pick, or the picker spindle may be bent. The loom
may be caused to bang off by any loose parts on the pro-
tector motion, as, for instance, sometimes the protector finger
will become loose; also it will be frequently found that the
hole in the binder will become enlarged, or the spindle that

§55 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING 25

supports the binder may become bent so that the binder will
fail to impart a sufficient movement to the protector finger
to cause the dagger to clear the casting beneath the lay.

Banging off is also sometimes occasioned by a loose belt,
or by the friction slipping^ or by the belt itself slipping. In
these cases it will be found that the slip will occur just as the
loom starts to pick, which will result in a weak impulse
being imparted to the shuttle. The friction when slipping is
often difficult to remedy, although in some cases it can be
fixed by simply moving it up closer. Sometimes the trouble
is due to the countershaft having too much play, in which
case the wooden block that holds its end in position should
be adjusted or a new block inserted. The cause of the
friction slipping is generally due, however, to the leather
with which it is faced becoming greasy; this can be remedied
by rubbing it with slaked lime or whiting. Sandpapering
the leather, as a rule, is of little value.

The bearings of the picking shaft may have become loose,
which will also result in banging off. Sometimes the shuttle
will be retarded by the shed not opening wide enough or
early enough to give the shuttle a clear path across the
loom, or it may close upon the shuttle so soon as to pre-
vent its entering the box freely.

SHUTTLES CiOlNG CROOKED AXD PITYING OUT

24. If the speed at which the shuttle travels across the
loom is kept in mind, it will not be difficult to understand
that any obstruction to Its flight, however slight, will serve
to throw it out of its course and very probably out of the
loom. When this happens, the loom will of course bang off.
but the shuttle is also liable to break out the warp threads
and injure the weaver, if it flies out of the loom. When look-
ing for the cause of this defect, the shedding of the loom
should be carefully considered- It is very important that
the bottom shed should not be so high that it will give the

int of the shuttle an upward tendency as it is delivered
from the box. Also it is important to notice the timing of

26 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING §55

the harnesses; they should change in time to offer a free
shed to the shuttle as it starts on the passage across the
loom. Very often a broken end of the warp will become
entangled with other warp ends, preventing their opening
the shed freely and thus causing an obstruction to the pas-
sage of the shuttle. When this is the case, it is easily
noticed and quickly remedied. The position of the reed
should also be carefully noted, and it should be seen that it
is perfectly in line with the back of' the boxes; for if it should
be set a little forwards of this position, it is sure to give the
shuttle an outward tendency, causing it to fly from the loom
or at least to cross the loom with a crooked flight. One or
more dents of the reed protruding into the course of the
shuttle will have a similar effect.

The position of the boxes in regard to the race plate
should be noted; each box should be brought exactly level
with the race plate when the loom starts to pick. The point
where the shuttle leaves the boxes should also be carefully
noticed, as any obstruction here, however slight, is liable to
result in the shuttle being deflected. Occasionally a screw in
the race plate will become loose and the shuttle striking this
is sure to be thrown out. Sometimes also the race plate
will be raised a little in places, which will also result in the
shuttle being deflected. The shuttles themselves are liable
to become worn so that they do not rest flat but have a
rocker-shaped bottom, in which case they are almost sure to
give trouble, either from going crooked or flying out. A
worn picker will also cause the shuttle to fly from the loom,
and occasionally a broken picker stick or strap will have the
same effect. It will sometimes be noticed that the shuttle
in entering the box will stop with its outer end projecting
a slight distance, in which case when the boxes are dropped
it will rest on the race plate and, as the loom picks, will
sometimes fly out, but usually in this case the shuttle will
be held fast and the picker stick broken. Sometimes the
picker spindle may be loose or bent, which will cause the
shuttle to be deflected as it is thrown, or the picker spindle
may not be fastened exactly parallel to the box. Occasionally

§55 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FLXING 27

the lay will be out of true, or the pitman arms may be loosely
connected or worn. This makes the lay shaky, which in
combination with a harsh and jerky pick will often result
in the shuttle being thrown from the loom.

25.

PICKER STICKS BREAKING

Owing to the nature of the work performed by a

picker stick, broken ones are not of infrequent occurrence .
Picker sticks should be made from straight-g^rained hard-
wood, the best ones being made of hickory, straight- and fine-
grained. A coarse-grained slick, even if made of harder
wood than a fine-grained one, will generally be found to be
weaker. When the picker stick breaks, it will usually be
found to be split through the hole at the heeU This is often
caused by too long a sweep or by a shuttle becoming caught
in the boxes. Sometimes also the picker will become
caught in the boxes and when the loom starts to pick the
picker stick will be broken. There are a great many other
causes that tend to break the picker sticks, but the cause can
usually be ascertained in any particular case. Occasionally
the picking arm, which is connected by means of the lug strap
with the picker stick, will be broken. This is usually due to
similar causes to those that break picker sticks. It is also
occasionally due to the loom running too rigidly.

CUTTING FILLING

26, Sometimes a loom will develop an aggravated case
of cittting filling, in which event it will constantly be stopped
by the filling stop-motion, owing to the pick being cut or
broken in some manner. In the great majority of cases the
filling is cut when the shuttle is entering or leaving the box
in which the end of the shuttle containing the eye is in con-
tact with the picker- Sometimes when the shuttle is thrown
from this box that part of the 6Iling that extends from the
eye of the shuttle to the selvage is doubled on itself; in this
case if the filling is rubbed by the shuttle against the binder

28 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING §55

or any projection or rough place, it is almost sure to be cut.
When seeking to remedy a case of filling cutting, the broken
pick should be extended until it is found just how far it
reaches. Sometimes it will reach just to the mouth of the
boxes, in which case that is the place to look for the cause
of its cutting. Frequently it will reach to the temple, in
which case it may have been cut by the temple striking the
reed or rubbing on the race plate. The sides of the boxes
and the binders should be carefully examined to see if there
are any projections or rough places that will interfere with
the filling. Sometimes when the loom is throwing a crooked
shuttle, the shuttle will enter the box in such a manner as to
pinch the filling between itself and the side of the box and
cut it. Occasionally the pin that holds the spindle in the shut-
tle may become loose and project a short distance from the
side of the shuttle, in which case the shuttle is almost sure
to cut the filling. Occasionally splinters on the shuttle will
catch the filling and break it, or the pot eye in the shuttle
may be cracked so as to catch the filling and break it, espe-
cially in the case of fine filling.

Sometimes when the shuttle is checked in the box, the
shuttle spindle will be thrown up sharply, which will result
in the filling being snapped if it happens to be tender. If it
is noticed that the filling is being cut in a certain box, it will
generally be found that the cause is with that box and in
many cases it will be the binder that is causing the difficulty.
Occasionally considerable filing is needed on the mouths of
the boxes to prevent the filling being cut, and at all times it
is advisable to keep the shuttles perfectly smooth and have
them thrown across the loom straight.

FIL.L.ING KINKING

27. Kinks in the filling are usually the result of too
much twist in the yarn, or a yarn of a wiry nature. When
such is the case the filling should be thoroughly dampened
before weaving, either by being steamed or by having water
sprinkled on it.

WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING 29

I
I

Another point to be noted is the friction that is placed on
the filling in the shuttle. If the filling is allowed to run out
of the shuttle too freely » more than the required lengfth for
1 pick is very liable to be given off, and when beaten up by
the reed it will be sure to form ridges. In order to prevent
this, a small piece of flannel or a small brush should be
placed in the nose of the shuttle in such a position that the
filling nmning through the eye will come in contact with
it, thus causing a drag on the filling yarn as it is leaving
the shuttle. When fine yarns are being used, however,
care should be taken not to produce so much friction that
the fiUing will be frequently broken as the shuttle crosses
the loom>

Another cause of kinky filling is the shuttle rebounding in
the boxes sufficiently to cause slack filling, but not enough
to result in the loom banging off. Occasionally filling kink-
ing may be remedied by setting the shedding mechanism
so that the shed will be closed early; in this way the shed
will close on the pick of filling before it has time to kink
in the cloth.

KKOCKING OFF FrLIiING

28. It frequently happens that when the shuttle is checked
in the box the momentum will be sufficient to cause the yarn
to slip off or, as it is sometimes spoken of, knock off ^ or sluh
Qff^ the bobbin in lumps* This produces a great amount of
waste besides causing the filling to break and the loom to
stop and also, in some cases, double picks to be inserted in
the cloth. The cause of filling knocking off is fully as often
found in the spinning department as in the weaving. Very
frequently the yam will be wound on the bobbin in such a
manner as to be so soft or have such a taper that it is almost
impossible to throw the shuttle across the loom without the
filling stubbing ofl when it is checked. In most cases when
the filling is being knocked off, the principal point is to reg-
nlate the power of the pick, reducing it as much as possible.
It is also necessary to see that the shuttle is as gradually and
uniformly checked as possible. If the shuttle is being sent

80 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING §55

across the loom at a high speed and is then suddenly stopped
and the bobbins are in any way soft, the filling is almost sure
to be knocked off; consequently, anything to lessen this blow
will also lessen the liability of this defect.

BOBBIN SPLITTING

29. Bobbin splittinsr is a defect that is caused by the
spindle in the shuttle rising so that as the shuttle enters the
box it strikes the top pf the box and as a result a piece of
the bobbin is split off. This is sometimes caused by the
shuttle going across the loom crooked, or sometimes because
the bottom shed is too high; sometimes also the box may be
too low, and thus the shuttle enters the box too high. Bob-
bin splitting is also caused by the spindle in the shuttle being
loose, which causes it to rise as it is thrown across the loom.

THICK AND THIN PLACES

30. Thick and thin places in the cloth, or uneven weav-
ing, may result from the weaver making an imperfect start after
a pick-out has been made, or they may occur while the loom
is running. In the first case, the difficulty is due to the cloth
not being let back the correct distance, or the tension of the
warp not being adjusted exactly the same after a pick-out
has been made as previously, in which case either a thick or
thin place is made when the loom is started. The thick or
thin places that occur when the loom is running, however,
are an entirely different matter and are not at all times easily
overcome. Sometimes a loom will run for many hours, then
make a thick or thin place, and then run for an hour or two
longer before repeating this defect. Sometimes the friction
let-off is the cause of this defect, it being frequently found
that the friction will hold the warp tight for several picks
and then all at once let off a considerable amount. In damp
weather, the let-off motion will sometimes get in such a con-
dition that it must be cleaned of all foreign substances and

§55 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING 31

rubbed with black lead* Occasionally it will be found that
the beam is not true, or somelimes the casting that supports
one of the iournals of tJie beams may be loose. Sometimes
thick and thin places are caused by the take-up motion. This
defect is more noticeable when weavingr light goods, in which
case particular care should be taken with the let-off and
take-up motions. Sometimes the weights on the levers
govemiti^ the let-off motion may be striking on the floor,
on the frame of the loom, or on one of the warp beams, in
which ease the warp is apt to let off unevenly. Sometimes
the flange of the beam may rub on the floor or on some part
of the loom and thus cause thick and thin places.

SHADED GOODS

31. The defect known as shaded goods is sometimes
caused in piece-dyed goods by the heddles not being evenly
divided by the hook supporting the heddle bar in the center
of the harnesses; that is, the heddles will be crowded on
one side of the loom. This often results in the goods
having a darker shade on one side after being dyed. The
remedy for this is of course obvious. Shaded piece-dyed
goods are not always the fault of the loom or the fixer,
since they are frequently catised in dressing the warp by
unequal tension on certain sections and by other causes.

HBED MARKB

32t Reed marks are stripes lengthwise of the cloth
caused by some of the splits of the reed becoming bent,
usually through care!essne*?s in handling the reed. Reeds
are easily bruised, and when a reed is thus damaged it is
impossible to weave perfect cloth from it until the damaged
splits are straightened. This may be easily accomplished
by means of a pair of reed pliers or by drawing out the
damaged splits and inserting new ones in their places.

32 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING §55

CHAFING AND BUTTONING BEHIND THE REED

33. It will^ be understood that the constant chafing: of
the yarn in passing^ throug^h the heddles on the harnesses
tends to wear and weaken the yarn and to break it, while
the reed in working forwards and backwards in beating up
the filling chafes the yarn even more than the harnesses.
Very often on fibrous warps the reed will scrape the loose
fibers from each thread and collect them in buttons just
behind the reed and in front of the harnesses. When these
buttons grow large, through the constant accumulation of
loose fibers, and the warp is drawn forwards by the take-up
motion, the yam will not be able to pass through the
reed and so will be broken out. This may be prevented
by properly sizing the warp; but if a warp is already in the
loom it can be helped by making a loose rope of waste yam
and attaching it to the lay just behind the reed so that it
will rest lightly on the warp. Then as the lay moves for-
wards and backwards the projecting fibers on the yarn will
be smoothed down and the yarn passed through the reed all
right. In case the difficulty is very great, this rope of waste
may be kept moistened, either with water or a thin size.

POOR SEIiVAGES

34. With some warps it is often found difficult to pro-
duce clean and even selvages, especially when single yams
are used for selvage ends. When ragged selvages are being
made the defect is usually due to the selvage ends being
broken out in weaving. This is often caused by the temples
failing to hold the cloth out as wide as necessary, so that
as the reed beats up the pick of filling, the selvage ends are
broken out. When this occurs repeatedly, the weaver will
fail to keep the sclvajje ends tied in, with the result that
poor selvages are made. Occasionally when the shed is
being opened a little late the shuttle will start to cross the
loom before the shed is open sufficiently to prevent the
selvage ends being broken ^^ the shuttle. Late shedding

§55 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING 33

is especially liable to cause the selvage ends to be broken if
the shuttle is a little rough.

When loose weaves, like baskets and sateens, are being
woven J it is often impossible to produce a gobd selvage by
<Jrawin^ the selvage ends through the regular warp har-
nesses, because the latter do not rise and fall frequently
enough to produce a firm edge on the cloth or to hold the
picks of filling out welL When this is the case, a selvage
motion should be used to operate the selvage ends; it will
often be found impossible, however, to use a motion that
changes the selvage on every pick and produces a plain
selvage, because the selvage ends will in this case take up
so much faster than the warp that they will become so tight
as to break, In this case a selvage motion arranged to
change the selvage ends first on one side of the loom and
then on the other, so as to put 2 picks of filling in each
selvage shed, may often be used to advantage, since in this
case the take-up of the selvage ends in weaving is not
so great.

Sometimes the selvage ends instead of being too tight
will be slack, in which case if there is much tension on
the filling the selvage ends will not hold out the cloth to the
full width. Sometimes it is difficult to so set the temples as
to hold out the cloth* In either of the above cases it is
sometimes of advantage to wind a strip of coarse sandpaper
about 4 inches wide around each edge of the take-up rolU so
that its diameter will be slightly increased, which will result
in the edges of the cloth being drawn down a little faster
than the body of the cloth and the selvages thus kept tight.
This method will sometimes be found to aid greatly in
holding out the cloth to the full width when heavy fabrics
with a hard weave arc being woven.

Occasionally a temple will damage the selvage or the
edge of the cloth* This is sometimes caused on delicate
fabrics by the burr of the temple being damaged, and some*
times one or more of the rings of the burr will be bent
so that they fail to turn. Sometimes the cap of the temple
will rub the cloth so as to damage it, and at other times

Wl— 13

34 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING §55

the cloth may be too far into the temple. It is some-
times found that on light and delicate fabrics the end ring
of the temple will mark the cloth, because the greatest
strain in holding out the cloth to its full width is at this
point. In such cases it is necessary to remove this ring
from the temple, and in exceptional cases it may be
necessary to take out two or more rings.

WEAK WARPS

35. Occasionally there is sent to the weave room a warp
that is composed of such tender and twitty yarn or that is
so slack-twisted that it is almost impossible to weave, on
account of the warp breaking out so frequently. Warps of
this character require a great deal of skill in handling, even
if normal results only are expected. The worst feature of
these warps is that very little can be done to positively
remedy them, and about the best that the fixer can generally
do is to adjust the loom so that it will run as smoothly and
easily as possible. The tension of the warp in weaving
should be made as slight as is consistent with forming a
clear shed. The shed also should be made to open just
enough to nicely clear the shuttle; if it opens too wide the
warp is strained by the harnesses, while if it does not open
wide enough it is chafed by the shuttle.

The shed should not be made to open too early, but should
rather be set a little late. It is also of advantage sometimes
to set the top cylinder gear a little ahead of the bottom
cylinder gear, so that the harnesses that are rising will reach
their destination just before the reed strikes the fell of the
cloth, while those that are falling will come to rest just after
beating up. By doing this the strain on the warp is lessened
somewhat, because these three actions all produce a strain
on the warp yarn, and if they do not all occur at one and the
same time, this strain will not be so liable to cause breaks.
When weak warps are to be woven, it is very important to
have the whip roll in such a position that there will be an
equal strain on both the top and bottom sheds.

§55 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING 35

36.

the o)
weave

OtONO

36. Looms should be oiled twice a day; in most mills
the ollltt^ is performed every morning and noon* The
weavers are supposed to keep their looms well oiled p but
as a loom that is not properly oiled requires a great deal
more fixing, and as the fixing falls on the loom fixer, it
behooves him to see that the weavers are not negfligent in
this matter. The fixer should notice if the weaver is oiling
the loom at all the places w^here oiling is necessary, and if
not he should point out to the weaver the parts that require
oiling- Whenever a warp is woven out and the beam and
harnesses taken from the loom, the weaver should take the
opportunity to oil those parts of the loom that are difficult
of access. The fixer should occasionally grease the gearing
of the loom, especially the heavy driving gears. An excel-
lent grease for this purpose may be made by filling a suitable
receptacle about half !ull of soft soap and stirring powdered
black lead, or graphite, into it. Good heavy oil may.be
used instead of the soft soap, but the latter is cheaper and
serves the purpose as well — which is merely to hold the
black lead, or form a body for it.

CLEANING

37. The weavers are also required to keep the looms
clean, since if large amounts of dirt and flyings are allowed
to accumulatei the warps and cloth are liable to be soiled
and the danger of fire is also greatly increased. Looms
should not be cleaned while in motion, though in some
stales where the law allows, this is done. To clean the
looms a short-handled brush should be used; a bristle brush
is the best, but a good brush, or swab, may be made by tying
a bunch of w^aste yam on the end of a short stick. The
weavers should not be allowed to wipe or clean their looms
with a rag or a bunch of cotton waste held in the hand while

36 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING §55

the machine is running, as this is a very dangerous practice
and is sure to result in an accident. The weavers should
give the loom a thorough cleaning every time the warp is
out of the loom, and if they are required to keep the floor
clear of waste, the general appearance of the weave room
will be greatly improved. A scrubber should be employed
to scrub the floors and wash the windows. The latter espe-
cially should be kept clean and bright, as good light enables
good cloth to be woven, because the weaver can then readily
note any imperfections that are being made in the cloth.

BLACK OIL.

38. White and delicately colored fabrics are sometimes
stained with black and dirty oil. Although this rarely hap-
pens, it may. be prevented by proper care in wiping off
surplus oil from the various parts of the loom where it is
liable to come in contact with the warp, filling, or cloth, and
by having the hangers of the driving shafts so located that
they are not directly above the loom. Large stains may be
removed with a solution of oxalic acid, afterwards thoroughly
washing the place where the spot was.

SUPPLIES

39. In order to do good work, a loom fixer requires
supplies of the very best quality and of as extensive an
assortment as may be necessary for the class of looms under
his charg^e. He should, however, exercise the greatest care
and economy in their use, as this is an item of considerable
expense to the mill and a point that is generally carefully
watched by the management. If a loom is breaking picker
sticks frequently, the cause, which may be nothing more than
too much sweep on the stick, should be ascertained and the
difficulty remedied; the entire stock of spare sticks should
never be used. A number of pickers may be strung on a
wire and kept in the oil tank, so that when a new picker
is required, one of these may be used; it will last much
longer. Other supplies should also be made to last as long

§55 WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM FIXING 37

as possible. The practice of doing without supplies by
patching up a makeshift should not be tolerated, however,
and when it is necessary to draw on the supplies, the quicker
it is done the better it is for the loom and the fixer. A
saving in supplies may be effected if the fixer is vigilant in
observing and remedying little defects about the loom. For
instance, he may notice that a box is a little too high
or low and the shuttles are consequently becoming chafed;
leveling up the boxes not only saves the shuttles, but
very likely saves a case of shuttle flying.

WORKMANSHIP

40. The fixer should endeavor to do everything in a
workmanlike manner, since by so doing he will show him-
self to be the master of his trade. Many things about a
loom may be fixed in a makeshift way and the loom will run
just as well, but in order to have an appearance of neatness,
a loom should be fixed in the best and most substantial
manner possible under the circumstances. For instance, if
a harness strap is too long, the fixer should not tie a knot in
it to save going to the bench for the belt punch, nor should
he make a new hole in the strap with a knife, since in this
case the strap will break sooner or later and perhaps cause
serious damage. In order to do good work a fixer should
have a good set of tools, each stamped with his name or
initials. These should include one 14-inch monkeywrench,
one 8-inch monkeywrench, a good assortment of flat S, or
angle, wrenches, at least two good screwdrivers, an awl, a
steel straightedge, a pair of strong pliers, a pair of reed
pliers, a small spirit level, a machinist's hammer, a ball-
peen hammer, a prick punch, a cold chisel, a few files, and a
revolving belt punch. To these may be added various other
tools that are convenient and useful, such as drills, bits and
a bit stock, a chalk line, and a steel tape.

PLAIN LOOMS

INTRODUCTION

1. EvDluiton of the XiOoni.^The name loom is gen*
'erally applied to any machine that produces a woven fabric
as distinct from a knitted fabric. Weaving is one of the
oldest of the textile arts, and for the production of ordinary
fabrics is a comparatively simple process* It was practiced
wholly by hand until about the end of the 18th century, when
an entire change took place. From the combined efforts of
inventors there was then evolved a loom of such construction
that abnost the whole operation of weaving could be per-
formed by power. In all essential details this machine was
constructed on the same principles as the looms that have
been in use throughout the 19th century*
■ During this period countless efforts have been made to
mmprove the loom, and many of these have resulted in
changes* Each attempt at betterment, however, has usually
T)een confined to some one motion or part of the loom,
effecting improvements merely in the details of construction
and operation; until 10 years ago very few great improve-
ments had been made in the plain power loom, and at that
time a new plain loom did not differ very much in general
appearance and construction from a loom built a generation
previousp Diu'ing the last decade, however, there has been
a strong tendency toward improving the plain loom by
making it more automatic, and undoubtedly the next 10 years
will see still greater ^:hangest and weaving a decade hence
be a very different art from what it was 10 years ago,

/^ m&it€t of co^y right, $££ fittgr immfdiattty fallowing ih4 tftUpagt

2 PLAIN LOOMS §56

The English loom differs considerably from the American
loom, as in Europe the same attention has not been given to
the development of weaving machinery as has been done in
America; consequently, in riiany respects (though not all)
the American loom is superior to its English forerunner,
especially with regard to labor-saving devices.

The object of the loom is to interlace yams in such a way
as to form a cloth or fabric. Instead of threads, filaments
or strips may be used, and the fabric may be of all kinds,
from the finest muslin to the heaviest bagging.

2. Principle of Construction. — The principle on
which the loom is constructed is that of manipulating two
series of yams — the warp and the filling — so that the warp
will be slowly drawn through the loom, the warp threads
being separated frequently, and the filling, which is con-
tained in a sbuttle, thrown through the spaces forme4; the
warp threads are crossed after each pick of filling is inserted,
so as to bind the latter in place.

In order to interlace the yams, it is customary to prepare
them in two forms known, respectively, as warp and filling.
By the warp is meant that system of threads which is
placed on what is called a loom beam, and which consists
of a sheet of ends wound repeatedly around a roll and
stretched from back to front of the loom.

The name fillin^c is applied to a series of threads that run
across the fabric and are interlaced with the warp when the
warp ends are raised or depressed. In other words, the
warp is stretched from back to front of the loom and, when
the cloth is woven, forms the threads that run lengthwise,
while the filling is passed from side to side of the loom and
forms the yam in the fabric that runs crosswise.

3. Operation of the Loom. — It will be seen that, in
order to make cloth, some of the warp threads must be raised
and others lowered to produce the space through which the
filling can be passed. This space is called a shed, and
through it the filling is thrown from side to side.

The throwing across of the filling is known as plcklngr*

§56

PLAIN LOOMS

The shuttle, in being thrown from one side of the loom to
the other, leaves the (lUing some distance from the ed^e, or
fell* of the cloth. It is therefore necessary to push it forwards
to the cloth » that is^ to the picks that have previously been
put in and that help to form the fabric. This process is
know-Ti as heatlniur tip and completes the rotmd of operations
necessary to produce cloth*

The common loom, as used today, in addition to perform-
ing the operations of shedding, picking, and beating up, has
many parts that must perform certain other operations in
order to render it automatic. For example, take- up motions
are applied to dra%v the interwoven warp and filling fon\'ards
after it has become cloth: let-off niotlous are used to
release the warp at the desired rate of speed; automat te
stop- mot ions are provided to cause the loom to cease
I operating when the filling breaks, and in some cases when a
single end of the warp breaks; temples are provided to
"extend the cloth sidewise; all of these attachments are found
>n what is called z plain io^m.
The fact must not be forgotten that, notwithstanding the
"tise of these necessary attachments, the actual operation of
^^^^eaving is simply a continuous repetition of shedding; pick-
ing, and beating up, though these three motions may be
<Dbtained in different ways, and auxiliary motions for produ-
<2ing other effects may be added. In order that the elementary
;5irinciples of weaving shall be thoroughly understood, the
essential parts of a plain loom will be pointed out briefly,
3nd afterwards the object and operation of each part will be
iully described*

FARTS OF A PIjAIK IjOOM

Fig. 1 is a front view of a plain loom, while Fig. 2
gives a view of the back of the same loom. In pointing out
the different parts ^f this loom, the American terms most
commonly used will De given. The reference letters used in
Figs. 1 and 2 correspond, so that references to one figure
apply equally to the other.

PLAIN LOOMS

§56

\\\,\^ ^

6 PLAIN LOOMS §66

5. Betting: Up tlie Parts. — The first parts of a loom to
be set up are the sides marked x and Xx. These sides are
connected by girts and by an arch marked jr.; also, by other
parts, all tending to form a strong and suitable support for
the different mechanisms of the loom.

Extending from one side of the loom to the other is the
crank-shaft A. The tight-and-loose pulleys w, Wx are fas-
tened on one end of this shaft. These pulleys are driven by
a belt, which, in turn, is driven by a pulley on either a line
or countershaft. This belt runs through a belt fork, and may
be shipped from one pulley to the other by means of the
shipper handle v.

On this same end of the crank-shaft is also fastened a
gear /*, which engages with and drives another gear /„ of
exactly double the number of teeth of the gear on the crank-
shaft. The gear /, is fastened to a shaft /, which is known
as the cam-shaft. Thus, the cam-shaft will be driven one-
half as fast as the crank-shaft; or, in other words, it will
make one revolution while the crank-shaft is making two.

On this cam-shaft are fastened two cams s, St that actuate
two treadles ^,^1, to which are attached the harnesses, which
are omitted in these views. These treadles have their
fulcrum on a bracket fi^y which is fastened to the back girt of
the loom. On each end of the cam-shaft there is a cam r,
known as the picking cam, which, through suitable
mechanism, actuates the picker stick d on the same side of
the loom. At the bottom of the picker stick will be seen
what is known as the parallel motion, which is shown
more fully in Fig. 11. The picker stick is fastened to the
rocker j\ by means of a bolt, the rocker resting on a shoe /,.

The upper end of the picker stick projects through the
shuttle box n on the end of the loom lay. It will be
noticed that there is a picker stick and also a shuttle box «
at each end of the loom, and that all the parts are duplicated;
but, since on plain looms both picker sticks work in exactly
the same manner, only one is considered. The lay is sup-
ported by the lay swords /,, which are fastened to the rocker-
shaft /,. Fastened to the top of the lay is a thin strip of

§56 PLAIN LOOMS 7

either hardwood or iron, known as the race plate, on which
the shuttle runs in being thrown from one box to the other.
The lay is connected to the crank-shaft by means of the
crank-arms, and is thus given the motion required by this
part of the loom.

One more cam on the cam-shaft that needs to be mentioned
is the filling-fork cam u,, shown in Figs. 1 and 2. This cam
actuates the lever ««, which in turn actuates the filling fork in
such a manner as to stop the loom at any time the filling
may be absent.

6. The loom beam on which is wound the warp, rests in
the supports jr„ jr«. The yam passes from the beam over the
whip roll yy through lease rods, through harnesses that are
connected by means of straps at the top to rolls and at the
bottom to the treadles, and finally through a reed that is
supported by the lay and held in place by means of the reed
cap or lay cap ^..

Referring to Fig. 1, a is the breast beam of the loom, over
which the cloth passes. It then passes behind the roller A„
around the sand roll h, and is finally wound upon the iron
:-od (cloth roll) /. The sand roll takes up the cloth and is
Iriven by means of the take-up motion g.

PLAIN LOOMS §66

PRINCIPAL MOTIONS OP A LOOM

SHEDDING

SHEDDING BT CAMS

7. Fig. 3 shows, in detail, the shedding mechanism of a
plain loom; / is the cam-shaft; s, Si the cams; and p, p^ the
treadles to which the harnesses q, Qx are attached by straps.
Above is the harness-roll shaft ^., with the harness rolls ^,.
The cams s, Sx act on the round bowls/.,/,, which revolve on
studs set in the treadles; ^, q^ are the harnesses required to
be lifted to form the shed; q^ are the strap and jack-con-
nections, which join the bottoms of the harnesses to their
respective levers. These straps are capable of being length-
ened or shortened as may be required; q^ shows the strap
connections for the top of the harnesses. These straps are
fixed to the rolls ^„ which are of different diameters. The
rolls are setscrewed on a shaft ^,. The difference in the
diameters of the rolls is required in order to compensate for
the extra rise that must be given to the back harnesses so
that the yam drawn through it will rise to the same height
as the yarn in the front harness. This would be more
noticeable if several harnesses were employed. For the
same reason the cam that actuates the back harness should
always be larger than the one that actuates the front.

The manner in which the cams 5, 5», Fig. 3, cause the rise
and fall of the harnesses q, q^ should be considered. Each
cam moves the harness, which it actuates, in one direction
only, straps and roller connections being necessary to bring
the harness back to its original position. Thus, when the
cam-shaft /, Fig. 3, revolves so that the cam Sx is in the
position shown in this figure, the harness q will be lowered

§5fi

PLAIN LOOMS

by the direct action of this cam, forcing down the treadle/.

When, however, the shaft / has revolved so that the cam j,

has assumed the position shown by the cam s, some oUier

mechanism must be employed

Eo lift the harness g, since the

cam Si not being connected in

any manner to the bowl Pm, but

simply coming io contact with

it, will have no action on the

bamess g when it is rising.
The raising of the harness ^

is accomplished by means of

the strap-and-roller connection

shown in Fig, 3, As the cam
J revolves, it forces down the
treadle Pi, which in turn lowers
the harness ^|. As this harness
is lowered it turns the rollers ^,.
The revolving of the rollers
winds up the top strap con-
nected to g, which raises that
harness. Thus the downward
motion of the harness ^i pro-
duces an upward motion of the

Fig. 3

harness ^, and^ consequently* as one harness is depressed
to allow the yam drawn through it to form the bottom
of the shed, the other harness is raised in order to form
the top of the shed.

10 PLAIN LOOMS §66

Althougfh inaccurate, the phrases top shed and bottom shed
are frequently used in a mill. The word shed really
indicates the entire space enclosed by the upper and lower
lines of warp. The expressions top shed and bottom shed,
as commonly used, are abbreviations for the expressions tap
line of the shed and bottom line of the shedy and as they have
become popular, they will be used in this connection. The
top and bottom lines of a shed are shown in Fig. 4, the
arrows showing the direction of the simultaneous movement
of each line so that the top line becomes the bottom, and
vice versa, at the next pick.

Harnesses are placed at right angles to the warp ends,
and must be so connected to the shedding motion that a
vertical pull will be exerted upon them, for a side move-
ment, however slight,
is detrimental to good
weaving. They must
Fio. 4 also be moved at a

varying speed, in order that as little strain as possible will
be brought on the yarn when the shed is open.

8. Sliape of a Cam. — The ideal movement that can be
given to a harness is to commence to lift or depress slowly,
gradually increasing in speed to the center of the shed,
when it again gradually becomes slower until the shed is
formed. The strain on the warp ends rapidly increases as
the warp approaches the upper and lower lines of the shed;
therefore, it follows that when the shed is fully open, the
warp yarns are at their greatest tension, and may be easily
broken, especially if an abrupt movement is given to them.
It is therefore necessary to give the easiest possible motion
to the yam when the shed is opened. As the shed closes,
tension is gradually being reduced, and when in mid-posi-
tion, there is little or no strain on the yam; therefore,
while passing the center of the shed, extra speed may be
given to the yam, in order to save time.

Harnesses actuated by cams are capable of approaching
the nearest to this perfect form of shedding, since the

§56

PLAIN LOOMS

movement of the harnesses is positively controlled both in
rising and falling. Consequently, if the cam is so shaped
that it will give this movement, it will impart it to the
harnesses. For this reason cams are always used to pro-
duce the shed on a plain loom.

9. Constructioii of a Cam. — When constructing a cam
there are two points always to be considered. These are
the dwell of the cam and the size of the shed.

By d^well is meant the length of time the harnesses are
kept stationary in order to allow the shuttle to pass from
one side of the loom to the other. This dwell is not always
a constant quantity, since different makers adopt different
methods. The dwell is
obtained by having a
portion of the cam con-
structed with its outer
edge a true arc of a
circle; thus, when the
treadle is in contact
with that part of the
cam, there will be no
motion of the har-
nesses.

In regard to the size
of the shed formed by
the cam, it can readily ^^*^ — — —*'^

be understood that a ^'® ^

cam constructed to give a certain size shed cannot be used in
a loom where a much larger or much smaller shed is required.
In illustrating the construction of a cam, one will be taken
that is commonly used on plain work of ordinary counts.

Fig. 5 shows a cam with its construction lines. This
figure illustrates a cam suitable for ordinary work, the
change parts being drawn on lines that would give the
harnesses a steady motion, while the dwell allows the shuttle
a period equal to one-half a pick, in which to pass from one
side of the loom to the other.

01—14

12 PLAIN LOOMS §66

10. As has previously been shown, the cam-shaft makes
one revolution while the crank-shaft is making two; conse-
quently, one revolution of a cam on the cam-shaft will be
equal to two picks of the loom.

With a center a, and a radius equal to one-half the
diameter of the cam-shaft, describe the circle b. With
the same center, and a radius equal to one-half the diameter
of the cam-shaft plus the thickness of the cam-hub, describe
the circle c. The circle c represents the inner throw of
the cam. To the radius used in describing this circle
add the full throw of the cam, and draw the circle d. The
circle d represents the outer throw of the cam. The
circles thus described give the essential parts of the cam
from which to work.

Draw a line e /, dividing the circles into two equal parts.
Next draw the lines gh and j k, having the lines cut the
outer circle at points that will divide the circle into four
equal ^arts hj, gj, gky hk. Take the arc h k for the pause
when the harness is at its lowest point, and the zxQgj\ on
the opposite side, for the pause when the harness is at its
highest point. Then the arc hj must be occupied in raising
the harness from its lowest to its highest point, and the arc
gk in moving from the highest to the lowest. The arc k h
represents the dwell of the harness when lowered, and the
arc gj the dwell when raised. Since each of these repre-
sents one-quarter of the circle d, the time occupied by the
cam in moving through any one of these distances will be
half a pick.

It is now necessary to draw curved lines from // to / and
from k to ;;/, of such form as to give to the harnesses the
motion previously mentioned. In order to accomplish this,
it is first necessary to divide the arcs hj and kg into any
number of equal parts. Six parts are used in this illustra-
tion. Draw radial lines through these intersections.

Next divide the distance between the two circles c and d
into the same number of unequal parts, commencing with a
small division near the outer circle, increasing the size of
the division as the center of the space is approached, and

S 66 PLAIN LOOMS 13

^lien decreasing proportionately as the inner circle is
approached.

With the common center a and radii equal to the distances
:C^rom center a to the divisions made, describe arcs of circles
^:z:utting the radial lines previously drawn. From the point //,
^ilraw a curved line, having it pass through each of these
intersections until it reaches the point /. From the point k
^draw a similar curved line until it strikes the point m. This
"%^'ill complete the necessary lines, and as a result the cam
^ hkm is obtained.

As this cam actuates one harness only, it is readily
sipparent that as many cams must be constructed as there
sare harnesses to be operated. These cams are so placed on
the cam-shaft of the loom that they will not only give the
desired lift to the harnesses, but also that each cam will
actuate the harness which it governs, at the proper time.

It should also be noticed in this connection that the throw
of the cam which actuates the back harness must be a little
larger than that of the cam which actuates the front harness.
Consequently, the hub of the back cam should be made a
little smaller to allow the harness to be raised higher, and
the outer circle made correspondingly larger to allow it to be
depressed more.

11. Treadles. — The treadles of a loom may be con-
sidered as levers of the third class, since they have their
fulcrum on a bracket bolted to the back girt of the loom,
as previously explained, the weight being applied at the
point where the harnesses are connected and the power
exerted between these two. It will be seen, then, that
the point of the treadle where the weight, or, in other
words, the harness, is attached, in moving up and down,
will describe an arc ot a circle, and that the curvature of
this arc will be inversely proportional to the length of the
treadle; that is, the shorter the treadle, the greater will
be the curvature. This will result in the harnesses being
g^iven a backward and a forward movement, which must be
avoided, if possible; conseciuently, the length of the treadle

PLAIN LOOMS

§56

should as far as possible be such that this curvature will be
reduced to a minimum.

Ag:ain, the bowl in the treadle should be so situated that
its center, when the harness is in its central position, will be
in a line perpendicular with the center of the cam-shaft, since
if this is not done, the relative speed of the rise and fall of
the treadle will be affected.

Pig. 6

12. Another important point that should be noticed in
connection with the cam is that at the central point of its

lift the point of contact
of the treadle with the
cam should be level with
the fulcrum of the treadle.
This will insure the point
at which the harness is
attached moving the same
distance above this cen-
tral position as it does below, thus lessening^ the tendency
of the treadles to pull away from a straight line.

Figs. 6 and 7 illustrate this point. Dealing first with
Fig. 6, p^ is the fulcrum of the treadle, or the point where it is
attached to the loom. The circle a represents the inner throw
of the cam, while the cir-
cle b shows its outer throw.
From this it will be seen
that the line c will be the
line of the treadle when
raised, and the line e will
be the line of the treadle
when lowered.

It will be noticed that
these lines are equally dis-
tant from the central position of the treadle, which is repre-
sented by the line d\ consequently, the treadle will move away
from the perpendicular line / the same distance in both its upper
and lower positions, and it will also be noticed that this dis-
tance is the least possible with the conditions such as they are*

Fig. 7

PLAIN LOOMS 16

In Fig. 7, the fulcrum p^ of the treadle has been raised,
and the result is readily seen. In this case, the end of the
treadle, when at its upper position, is nearly in contact with
the line /. but when lowered to the position represented
T)y the line e, it will be noticed that it has been drawn some
distance from the line /. Such a position of the treadles
would result in the harnesses having a backward and a for-
ward movement, which should be avoided as much as pos-
sible in weaving. This and other points raised in connection
with the description of the construction of the loom and of
loom fixing may appear trivial when considered in connection
with one revolution of the cam-shaft, but when it is realized
that a loom makes many picks per minute, sometimes as high
as 200 or over, it will be seen that the neglect of such
apparently small matters would result in much unnecessary
vibration and damage to the loom and material.

13. ThroTv of the Cam. — As has already been stated,
the tliroTv of the cam is to be ascertained from the size of
the shed required. If the length of the treadle and the
length from stud or fulcrum to point of contact with the cam
a.re known, the throw necessary to give this shed is easily
obtained.

Since the length of the arc through which any point of a
lever moves is directly proportional to its distance from the
fulcrum, we have the following simple proportion: Size of
t:he shed : throw of cam = whole length of treadle : length
of treadle from fulcrum to point of contact. This gives the
following rule:

Rule. — To obtain the desired throw of caniy multiply the size
of shed required by the length of the treadle from the stud or
iulcrum to the point of contact, and divide this result by the
whole length of the treadle.

Example. — The length of treadle is 30 inches, distance from stud
to contact 18 inches, and the shed required 3 inches; what should be
the throw of the cara ?

Solution.— According to the rule: 18 X 3 = 54. Dividing by the
length of the treadle, 54 -J- 30 = 1.8 in., the throw of the cam. Ans.

PLAIN LOOM3

§66

PICKING

14. After the harnesses have been opened and a shed
formed, the shuttle that contains the filling must be thrown
from one side of the loom to the other, passing through this

opening and leaving a
pick of filling. This
action of the loom is
known as picking^.
It is a motion entirely
different from any
other movement 'of the
loom, and is one in
which a considerable
amount of force must
be exerted at a given
moment.

There are several
styles of picking mo-
tions in general use on
power looms at the
present time. In Amer-
ica, the two principal
ones are the shocy or bat-
zvhigy picky and the cone
pick, but as the cone
pick is the one in gen-
eral use on plain cotton
F'<i >^ looms, that alone will

be dealt with at present. The one here referred to is an
undor-plck motion.

Figs. H and 1) are views of the picking motion; c is the
picking cam on the cam-shaft /; t\ is the cone on which
the cam acts; e is the picking shaft. Fastened to the end of the
picking shaft is the i)icking-shaft arm r,, to which is fastened a
collar c^. Fastened to i\ is a short lug strap connected with
the lug sticks/,. Another lug strap r/, connects the lug stick
with the picker stick d. At the foot of the picker stick is the

§S6

PLAIN LOOMS

parallel motion, which consists of the rocker /,, shoe y., and
other parts shown.

The action of the picking motion is as follows: As the
I>rojecting part, or nose, of the cam in revolving on the cam-
shaft strikes the cone ^,, it forces it upwards. This, in turn,
t:lirows the bottom of
t:lie shaft arm ^, inwards,
^which movement draws
tJie picker stick toward
tlie loom by means of
connections consisting
c^f a lug stick and lug
straps, as previously
explained. The picker
stick, by means of the
force with which it is
drawn in, delivers a
blow to the shuttle suffi-
cient to send it across
the loom and into the
opposite box. After the
shuttle has entered
the opposite box, a pick-
ing motion of exactly
the same construction
will then throw it back
again across the loom.
It will readily be seen
that the intensity of the
force with which the picker stick d is thrown in toward
the loom will depend on the intensity of the force that the
cam c imparts to the cone e^. This, of course, will depend
to a great extent on the shape of the cam.

Fig. 9

15. Plekinj? Cams. — Although a picking cam differs
very materially from the harness cam, yet in constructing a
picking cam a principle must be adopted similar to that used
in the construction of the shedding cams; that is, the first

PLAIN LOOMS

§56

portion of the rise must be gradual, so that it will commence
to move the shuttle gradually and increase in velocity
toward the end of the stroke. The construction of a picking
cam will depend on the force that the cam is required to
exert, and on the amount of time in which it is allowed to
exert the required force.

Fig. 10 illustrates these two points; a r /^ represents the
outside line of a cam. When the cam revolves until the
part c comes in contact with the cone, it will commence to
move the picker stick. From r to a is occupied in delivering:
the pick. By extending the line cg^ until it cuts the outer
circumference, the arc a^ is obtained, through which the
point of the cam moves while delivering the blow. If the

Fig. 10

distance from a to d is lessened, it can readily be seen that,
with the cam revolving at the same rate of speed, more
power will be exerted. But this would result in a harsh pick,
which should be avoided as far as possible. If, on the other
hand, the distance should be increased, less power will be
exerted. This would result in a smoothly running pick, but
could be carried to such an extent that the picker stick
would not receive the required power to enable it to send
the shuttle across the loom.

The size of cam and the curves required have been found
very largely by experiment; for, while it is possible to figure
the length of the arms on the picking shaft and the length of

§ ^C PLAIN LOOMS 19

^^^ cam-point to move the picking stick a certain distance in
"^^^^ shuttle box, the amount of force sufficient to throw the
^^ vittle has been very difficult to determine, since the amount
^^ ^ resistance with which the shuttle meets in passing through
^^^^ shed varies to a great extent on different kinds of work.

16. If a perpendicular line should be drawn passing
^^xough the center of the cam-shaft, it would be found that
^^^« cone was set some distance back of this line. The object
^^^ placing the cone in such a position is that the force of the
^^^m may be exerted while moving upwards. If the cone
'^^^^re set directly over the center of the cam-shaft, a good
^^al of the force would be exerted in a horizontal direction,
^-»^d since the motion of the cone is vertical, or nearly so, it
'^'V'ill be readily seen that a cone set in this position would
^^^sult in a very harsh and undesirable pick.

It will be noticed by reference to Fig. 8, that the diameter
^^f the cone ^, varies. The active surface of the picking cam
^^ also beveled at varying angles to fit the surface of the
^^^ne, so that the face of the cam may be constantly in full
^^ on tact with the cone.

17. Parallel Motion. — The parallel motion is one of

t.'he many parts of a loom necessary to the perfect working

^^f the whole, but especially to the picking. Probably no

X>art of the construction of a loom is subject to so much

criticism as the picking motion, and by no means the least

important part of the picking motion is the parallel motion.

A picking cam could l>e of a perfect shape, and the cone in

the exact position for its best working, yet, if the i)arallel

motion were wanting in exactness, the result would be

undesirable.

Fig. 11 is a view of the parallel motion showing also the
picker stick and shuttle box, the picker stick being at its
backward position; /, is the rr>cker of the parallel motion to
which the picker stick </ is attached by means of a bolt, as
shown in the illustration. This rocker rests on a shoe /,,
and is held in position simply by a projection j\, which
passes through a slot cut in the rocker, the rocker thus

PLAIN LOOMS

§56

being allowed a free movement as the picker stick moves
backwards and forwards.

The strap /*, one end of which is fastened to the picker
stick, while the other end is fastened to a coil springy j\,
serves to bring the picker stick to its backward position after
it has delivered the shuttle. It also keeps the rocker down
on the shoe, preventing it from springing upwards while
picking.

18. Picker sticks serve to transmit the power imparted
by the picking cam. As considerable strain is brought to

bear on them, the split-
ting of picker sticks is
a common occurrence in
the weave room.

Fastened to the upper
end of the picker stick
is the part d^ known as
the picker. On plain
looms the picker is gen-
erally made of leather
and is fastened to the
picker stick by means of
a collar which passes
around the upper end of
the picker and is con-
nected to the picker stick.
In the front part of the
picker, a hole is cut of

Pig. 11

such a shape as to receive the shuttle point.

19. Object of the Parallel Motion.— The object of
the parallel motion is to move the picker in a direction
as nearly as possible parallel to the race plate. It will
be noticed that without some such arrangement, the
picker in traveling from one end of the box to the
other would describe an arc of a circle. This would give
it a higher position at one part of its movement than at
another, thereby resulting in a very unsatisfactory pick.

§56 PLAIN LOOMS 21

To remedy this the loom builder has adopted the parallel

motion-
The shoe of the parallel motion is perfectly level, while

the rocker to which the picker stick is fastened is curved*

This curve of the rocker is such that it forms the arc of a
circle that would be drawn by using^ the picker as a center,
and a radius equal to the distance from the picker to the shoe
of the parallel motion. Thus, it will be seen that as the picker
stick moves backwards and forw^ards, its fulcrum being at
the rocker, the upper end, or the picker, will be at the same
level when at the back of the box as at any other point.

20, 81iuttle Box. — The shuttle box is simply a con-
tinuation of the race plate, with the exception that sides are
added in order to receive the shuttle*

Some looms have a binder placed on the back of the box,
while on others it is at the front; these binders are made of
wood or iron, and are of a suitable shape to project into the
box. It^ outer end w^orks on a stud and is adjustable? the
other end is held in position by a fiug^er on the protector rod,
this finger being kept pressed against the binder by means
of a spring on the protector rod* The shuttle must over-
come this spring when entering the box. Leather check-
straps are also placed around these fingers to further check
the shuttle*

21. Shuttles. — The object of the Bhuttle is to deliver
a pick of filling from the cop, or bobbin, that it holds.
Shuttles are made of wood; they are hollowed out in the
center for the reception of the cop. or bobbin* A metal tip is
inserted at each end to protect the shuttle and to present a
smooth point to the yarn when passing through the shed.
In the shuttle, a metal tongue, or spindle, is inserted which
is hinged at one end and extends almost the entire length of
the hollow part of the shuttle. The tongues, or spindles, are
of various shapes, but the aim of all is to hold the cop, or
bobbin, firmly while the shuttle is in use. A small porcelain
or iron eye is placed at one end of the shuttle through which
the filling runs while being unwound.

PLAIN LOOMS

§56

BEATING UP

22. As the shuttle is thrown from one side of the loom
to the other, part of the filling that it contains is left in
the shed. This is known as a pick of fiUinfi:. It now
becomes the object of the loom to push this filling up to the
cloth previously woven; this operation is known as beating:
up and is performed by the lay of the loom, in which is
placed the reed dividing the warp threads.

This motion is shown in Fig. 12, which gives a view of
the lay and its connections; the lay k is supported by the lay
swords /„ which are attached to the rocker-shaft placed near

Fir.. 12

the floor. This shaft is held by two brackets in which it is
free to oscillate.

The lay consists of a heavy piece of wood extending from
the outside end of one shuttle box to the outside end of the
opposite box. The extra weight and strength for heavy
work is sometimes obtained by bolting iron plates on the
back and front. On the top of the lay k is fastened the race
plate, which is usually a thin piece of straight-grained hard-
wood screwed to the lay. In most cases it forms a perfectly
straight surface. Sometimes, however, it is gradually hol-
lowed at the center so that it is from h to i inch below a
straight line. In some looms the race plate consists of a
thin strip of iron.

§56

PLAIN LOOMS

A ^oove is cut in the lay for the reception of the reed,
and there are also two slots, one at each end, for the recep-
tion of the picker stickii, as has already been explained. The

^reed cap k^ has a groove on its under side in which sets the
lop of the reed. The reed is held in position by the grooves
in the lay and reed cap, the reed cap being bolted to the lay
swords as shown in Fig. 12.

The movement of the lay is obtained by means of the
crank-shaft /i and the crank /, shown in Fig. 9; /is the
crank-arm, which is connected to the crank /. by a leather
or steel strap, A similar connection is made at the lay
sword where a pin m, is placed* the crank-arm being attached
to it by another steel band.

The object of driving the crank-shaft at twice the speed

rof the cam*shaft will now be readily apparent* since it

fwill be seen that it is necessary for the lay to beat up
the Blling at each pick of the loom and, although one revo-
lution of the cam-shaft causes two sheds to be formed, and*
consequently, two picks to be placed in the cloth, yet one
revolutton of the crank-shaft serves to move the lay for-
wards only once, and therefore drives the filling up to the
cloth only once.

The lay serv^es two purposes: first, it beats up the filling,
and, second, it acts as a rest on which the shuttle may slide,
in passing from one box to the other. These are, in a cer-

{tain sense, opposed to each other, since when the lay is
beating up the filling, it should give a quick, sharp blow;
while on the other hand, when it is carrying the shuttle, its
motion should be slightly retarded. Consequently, the lay
must be driven in such a manner that it will have a varying
speed. In other words, the driving arrangement must be
eccentric.

23. Eccentricity of Lay, — In Fig. IS^ the line a^ rep*
resents the position of the lay and lay sword when at their
forward throw, and the line at:, when at their backward
throw; J represents the circle described by the crank In
revolving. It will be noticed that the line i>c represents the

24 PLAIN LOOMS §56

throw of the lay; therefore, this distance must be equal to
the diameter of the circle described by the crank.

When the lay is at its forward throw, the crank must be at
its front center, which is /. This gives the length of the
crank-arm, which is bf. If the center^ of the throw of the
lay is taken as a center, and an arc described with a radius
equal to the length of the crank-arm, it will be found to cut
the circle of the crank at 1 and 2. Therefore, while the lay

is moving from g

to b and back to

4 g again, which is

\ half a stroke, the

'/'^->^.. \

/
/

t" crank moves from
/ 2 through / to 1.
y On the other

hand, while the
/ / lay is moving

/ / from ^ to c and back to g again, which also

/ / is half a stroke, the crank is moving from

/ / :/ through e to 2. But it will be noticed

/ I that the arc 2/i is smaller than the arc

/ / 1e2, and since the crank revolves at the

/ / same rate of speed, the shorter distance

/ / must be traveled in a shorter time.

^/ / Therefore, the lay in moving through its

// forward stroke, or from g to b and back

«a to g, will travel faster than while accom.-

plishing its backward stroke, or from g
to c and back to g. This is known as the eccentrlelty
of tho hiy, and the amount of this eccentricity is indi-
rectly proportional to the lenj^th of the crank-arm, and
directly proportional to the diameter of the circle described
by the crank. The larger the circle and the shorter the
crank-arm, the greater will be the eccentricity.

Two or three other important points connected with the
eccentricity of the lay should be carefully noted. It will
be readily seen that on all looms it is essential that this
eccentricity should be great enough to allow the shuttle

§ Se PLAIN LOOMS 25

^ixx^e to. pass from one box to the other; while on the
^^t:l:xer hand, if the throw of the crank should be increased,
^^^ distance through which the lay moves would be
^'^ciiTeased proportionately. This would produce a greater
^^^ding of the warp yams, which should be avoided as
^'^^x^.ch as possible. The method adopted by loom builders
^^^ overcome this difficulty, is to place the crank-shaft in
^^ lower plane than the point where the crank-arm is con-
*^^^ted with the lay. By increasing the diameter of the
^'^x^cle described by the crank in proportion to the length
^^^ the crank-arm, the requisite amount of eccentricity is
^^V^tained, and at the same time the crank is taken out of the
^^''^y of the warp.

It will be noticed, in the illustration, that the line a b, or

^^e position of the lay at its forward stroke, is vertical. The

^^.y is set in this manner so that the reed, when it strikes

^Vie cloth in beating up the filling, will be at right angles to

^Vie cloth. If the lay were allowed to pass this central

X^osition in its backward and forward swing, it would also

^ause a vibration of the loom, which would be very detri-

^Viental to its good working.

24. Bevel of the Race Plate. — When the lay is in its

backward position, the bottom shed forms an angle to a line

tihat is horizontal. The race plate of the lay, when in this

jDosition, should form a similar angle; that is, it should be

parallel with the bottom shed of the warp; but it will be

noticed that the reed is constantly in a line parallel with the

swords on which the lay works; consequently, this will cause

the race plate and the reed to form what may be called a

groove, when the shuttle is being thrown from one box to

the other. This will result in the shuttle running much

more steadily and being less liable to fly out.

25. Reeds. — One object of the reed is to guide the
shuttle while passing from one box to the other and, in order
to accomplish this object, it is very essential that the reed
should be perfectly straight and in an exact line with the
back of the box.

26 PLAIN LOOMS §56

A reed consists of a top and bottom rod a, a„ Fig. 14,
into which are set flat wires b. These wires are securely
fastened in place by winding tarred cord c between them and
around the rods. The warp ends are drawn between these
wires — a certain number between each two consecutive
wires; thus the reed also serves to hold the warp ends in
their correct position while the lay is passing back and
forth in beating up the filling.

Reeds are spoken of as having so many dents per inch,
that is, so many wires to each inch lengthwise of the reed.
This number varies very largely in the cotton trade, running
from six to ninety. A different number of ends to the dent
will be found to be drawn through reeds, the most common

numb^ being two ends per dent.
Thus, the reed serves to deter-
mine the fineness of the cloth; that
is, it governs the number of warp
ends in each inch of cloth.

26. Fast Reeds. — In the ma-
jority of looms run at the present
time, the reed is securely fastened
to the lay, being held perfectly
rigid. With such a construction, it
is very evident that if the shuttle
has, for any reason, failed to get well into its box and is
still in the shed when the reed is in the act of beating up
the filling, the result will be the straining of the warp
threads, and the breaking of some of them.

27. The Protector. — When a loom is provided with a
fast reed, it also contains a device called a protector, the
object of which is to guard against such conditions. Such a
device is shown in Fig. 15; k is the lay on which the shuttle
runs. The protector consists of a rod ^, that runs the whole
length of the lay between the boxes and rests in two or three
bearings fastened to the under side of the lay. At each end
of the lay this rod is curved and carries a finger bt that
presses against the binder k,, as has been described. On the

§56

PLAIN LOOMS

end of the rod that is at the shipper side of the loom, there
is placed, in addition to the finger, a projection b known
as the dasrsrer* On the loom frame is a casting c known
as the frosT* This frog contains a steel hunter d on its
upper side corresponding to the shape of the edge of the
dagger. Bolted to the frog is a bracket ^„ Fig. 22, so set
that it is nearly in connection with the shipper of the loom.
The action of the protector is as follows: When the
shuttle enters the box, the binder kx is pushed outwards and

Pio. 15

"pushes back the finger b^. This causes the dagger b to be
lifted so that as the lay comes forwards the dagger passes
over the steel hunter d in the frog. If for any reason, the
shuttle fails to enter the box, the binder remains stationary
and the finger ^, retains its position, so that when the lay
comes forwards, the dagger engages with the frog, thus
checking the movement of the lay. But in doing this, the
frog is pushed forwards sufficiently to enable the bracket to

01—15

PLAIN LOOMS

§56

push against the shipper and throw it out of position, thus
shifting the belt from the tight to the loose pulley.

Frequently the binder is placed at the front of the box.
In this case, the dagger is placed on the protector rod at the
center of the lay, while the hunter is at the center of the
breast beam and on the under side; but since the action of
both is very similar, only one has been described here.

28. lioose Reeds. — In the case of loose reeds, the reed
by Fig. 16, is held in position by a loose board *». This

Fig. 16

board extends the entire length of the reed and is held by
means of a lever ^„ to which is attached a spring k. When
the lay is at its backward stroke and the shuttle is being
thrown across the loom, the board b^ is held more strongly
by means of the lever ;/, which comes in contact with the
spring ;/,. When the shuttle from any cause is trapped in the
shed, the pressure of the shuttle against the reed, caused by

§56 PLAIN LOOMS 29

the warp yam pressing: against the shuttle, is su£5cient to
throw out the reed and thus release the shuttle.

It will be noticed that with such an arrangement and with-
out any additional mechanism, the reed would be unable to
deliver a sufficiently strong blow in beating up the filling.
To overcome this difficulty, a frog h is placed on the front
of the loom in such a position that, as the lay comes for-
wards, a finger hx attached to the lever, which holds the
board against the reed, will just slide beneath the frog, thus
holding the reed securely in position. This attachment is so
arranged that it cannot act until the shuttle is well into the
box, thus preventing any liability of the reed being fast so
long as the shuttle is in the shed.

When the reed is knocked out by the action of the shuttle,
the loom will be stopped by means of the dagger /, the
action of which is as follows: The reed in being pushed
back by the shuttle will throw the loose board b^ with it, thus
raising the dagger y, which as the lay comes forwards will
come in contact with the casting r on the shipper handle v,
thus throwing v out of its retaining notch and stopping the
loom. As long as the shuttle is not trapped in the shed,
the board b^ will retain the position shown in the figure, and
the dagger j will slide below the casting r, and, conse-
quently, will not interfere with the shipper handle. The
loose reed loom is commonly used in England and other
Eiuropean countries.

30 PLAIN LOOMS §56

AUXILIARY MOTIONS OF A LOOM

liET-OFF MOTIONS

29. The motions dealt with in the following articles
are termed the auxiliary motions of the loom; although
secondary to those dealt with, they are extremely necessary
to the satisfactory working of all power looms.

liCt-off motion is the name applied to a motion employed
to control the warp, allowing the necessary amount of yarn
to be unwound from the beam and at the same time holding
the yarn at a sufficient tension while the cloth is being
woven. Two important points should be kept in mind when
considering it: First, all let-offs are regulated by the ten-
sion on the warp yam; that is, in all cases the tension on
the warp threads must be sufficient to overcome a certain
resistance before the yarn will unwind from the beam.
Second, the position of the lay when the yam is let off
should be carefully noted.

To obtain the best results on plain looms, the warp should
be as tight as possible when the filling is being beaten up.
In accomplishing this object, however, one difficulty is met
with. When the shed is open there must be a greater
length of yarn between the warp beam and the edge of the
cloth than when the yarn forms a straight line; and, since
the reed strikes the cloth when the yarn is level or when it
is starting to open for the next pick, it must follow that the
yarn would be slack at this point if there were not some
arrangement to prevent it. This is provided for generally
by making the whip roll — over which the warp passes —
oscillate, so that when the yarn is skick the whip roll, by
moving upwards, will take up the slack, and as the yam is
tightened again by the shed opening, the whip roll will be
pulled down, thus relieving the yarn.

§56

PLAIN LOOMS

The simplest let-off motion, and one quite generally used,
is the ordinary friction let-off. This consists of a rope, or
in some cases a chain, wound two or three times aroimd the
beam head, one end of this rope or chain being made fast to
the loom frame, while the other end is attached to a lever
about 6 inches from the fulcrum. Weights are placed on
this lever sufficient to give the required tension.

So-called automatic let-offs are frequently used on looms,

Fig. 17

and a description of the two most commonly used will serve
to illustrate the principle of this class of let-off motions.

30. Bartlett TAM-Off.— Fig. 17 is a view of the
Bartlett l<*t-off as applied to looms. The whip roll y sets
in brackets y, that are sctscrewed to the whip-roll shaft,
which is supported by brackets fastened at the point b. The
whip-roll shaft sets loosely in these brackets and is free to
turn in either direction. On the end of the whip-roll shaft is
an arm c connected at its lower end to the rod d, which is

32 PLAIN LOOMS §66

curved at the other end. This rod is held in position by
the support d^, in which it slides. The short ann of the rod d
passes through the top of an upright arm e, which oscillates
on a stud /, the lower end of this arm being attached to a
rod g. On the end of this rod is a bracket carrying a pawl,
which operates the ratchet gear m at the bottom of a shaft iw ,
containing a worm h. The shaft m^ is kept from turning,
except when acted on by the pawl, by means of a friction
strap that passes around a friction pulley on this shaft. The
worm h drives the worm-gear y, which is on a shaft contain-
ing a gear that drives the beam by gearing into the teeth
on the beam head. Working loosely in the collar n is the
rod k, which is operated by the lay sword /„ as shown in
the figure.

The operation of this let-off is as follows: When sufficient
tension has been placed on the whip roll by the warp yam
pressing on it, the whip roll will be depressed. This will
cause the lower end of the arm c to be thrown in. compress-
ing the spring / and bringing r in contact with the upper
end of the oscillating rod e. As a result, the lower end of
the arm e with the rod g will be thrown toward the beam 5.
As the rod k is brought forwards by the lay sword, the
collar o will come in contact with the collar ;/, which is
fastened to the rod g. This will bring the rod g into its
former position; but in doing this it will cause the pawl to
engage with and turn the ratchet gear w and thus, through
the train of gears described, turn the beam s and let off the
yarn. The arrows show the direction in which the parts
move when operated by the rod k.

The throw of the pawl that operates the gear ;;/, and
consequently the amount of yarn let off at one time, can be
regulated by adjusting the collar n.

The tension of the yarn is governed by the spiral spring /,
which may be regulated by the collar /,. It will be seen that
if the spring is compressed by moving the collar, it will
require more strain on the whip roll to further compress it so
as to let off the yam. In some cases when changing from
heavy to light work, or vice versa, it may be found necessary

§56

PLAIN LOOMS

to change this spring entirely in order to compensate for the
difference in the amount of strain that the different yams
will stand.

31. Morton's liOt-Off. — Fig. 18 represents a sketch of
another let-off motion in common use, named Morton's
let-off motion, which is shown attached to the loom in
Fig. 1. This also works in connection with the whip roll,
which keeps it imder constant control. Until the yam

Fio. 18

is drawn tight no warp can be let off, and then the
amount liberated is so small that it makes the action almost
Continuous.

Referring to Fig. 18, /, shows the lay sword of the loom.
Connected to which is a pin a, that slides in a slotted lever b.
This lever, being connected to the lever ^,, imparts motion
to the rocker c through the aid of a coil spring on the stud
on which the rocker c works. At its lower end, the rocker e
is connected to a rod r,, which in turn is connected to an
oscillating rod d, this latter rod being fastened to the whip

34 PLAIN LOOMS §66

roll y. Connected to the rod Cx at the point f ■ is a strap e^
which, passing partly around an internal ratchet gear, is
connected to the upper end of the rocker c by means of the
spring e and the rod e^. The ratchet gear has in connection
with it a plate, on the inner side of which are placed two
pawls r, Vx that engage with the teeth of the ratchet.
Fastened to the ratchet gear is the gear g engaging with the
gear s on the shaft s^. On the inner end of this shaft is a
pinion that gears into the warp beam.

The action of this let-off motion is as follows: As the warp
becomes tight the whip roll is drawn forwards, the lower
end of the oscillating rod d moving correspondingly back-
wards, drawing with it the rod c^. This will result in the
upper end of the arm c moving forwards, drawing with it
the rod e^, spring e^ and strap e^. The strap ^•, being held
tightly against the outer surface of the ratchet gear will turn
the gear, since the pawls offer no resistance to the ratchet
gear when revolving in this direction.

The internal ratchet gear in being revolved will, through
the train of gears mentioned, turn the warp beam and thus
let off a certain amount of warp. The rocker c in being
moved in the manner described will cause the lower end of
the lever b^ also to be moved backwards, bringing with it the
slotted lever b. When the lay next beats up the filling, the
pin a on the lay sword will engage with the outer end of
the slot in which it works, and by this means bring the dif-
ferent parts of the mechanism to their original position. In
doing: this, however, the strap c^ instead of imparting any
motion to the internal ratchet gear when moving in this
direction, will slip on the outer surface of the gear owing to
the gear being held by the pawls r, ?\.

It should be noticed that with this mechanism the warp
yarn is let off when the shed is wide open, or, in other
words, when the most strain is brought on the yarn. This
is considered to be an advantage in weaving.

§56 PLAIN LOOMS 36

TAKK-UP MOTION
32. The take-up motion, as its name implies, is for
the purpose of taking up the cloth as it is being woven; and
by the rapidity or slowness with which it performs this
action it also determines the closeness of the filling, as the
reed determines the closeness of the warp threads.

The take-up most commonly found on plain looms, and
the one that will be considered, is known as the Inter-
mittent talce-up. This motion is operated by a pawl that
drives a train of gears, which in turn drives the sand roll
aroimd which the cloth is wound. Different makes of looms
have the pawl of the take-up motion operated by different
parts of the loom; thus, on some looms it is operated by an
eccentric or cam on the cam-shaft. Since the cam-shaft
makes only one rev-
olution while two

picks are being ^

placed in the cloth,
it w^ill be seen that
a take-up motion
driven in this man-
ner will operate only
once in two picks.
While this answers

all purposes for cloth that contains a large number of picks,

it is not as satisfactory for light-pick goods, since it has

a tendency to give the filling the appearance of having

been placed in the cloth two and two. The pawl may also

be operated from either the lay sword or. crank-shaft, and,

since these parts act during each pick of the loom, the

take-up motion will be operated at each pick.

Fig. 19 is an illustration of a take-up motion that is oper-
ated by an eccentric a on the cam-shaft. As the cam-shaft
x^evolves, the pawl b is pushed forwards, when it engages
"%ivith a tooth on the gear^,; then, as the cam-shaft revolves,
the arm is brought back again, turning the gear ^, one
-tooth; ^ is a pawl that engages with and holds the gear^»

PLAIN LOOMS

§56

while the pawl b is being brought forwards to engage with
another tooth.

A better idea of the manner in which motion is imparted
to the sand roll from the gear gx may be had by referring to
Fig. 20, which shows the train of gears through which this
motion acts; g^ in this figure corresponds with the gear^j in
Fig. 19, which is directly acted on by the pawl of the take-up
motion. On the same stud with gx is the gear ^„ shown
in the end view of this motion; g^ engages with the gearj?;,
which is on the stud with the gear g^\ this last gear drives
the gear^., which is on the end of the sand roll h. Thus,

Fir. 30

through the gears ^„ ^3. g*, and ^., the gear g, turns the
sand roll //, which carries the cloth forwards.

When a loom is stopped on account of the filling running
out or breaking, its momentum generally carries it at least
two picks before it stops; consequently, if there is nothing
to prevent it, the take-up motion will operate for these two
picks, althous:h there is no filling being placed in the cloth.
Then when the filling is replaced and the loom started, a thin
place will appear in the cloth.

To overcome this difficulty the pawl d. Fig. 19, is con-
structed in such a manner that, when necessary, it will
occupy a different position from what it does while holding
the gear.Ci. As the loom is stopped by the filling running
out or breaking, a lever that extends from the filling stop-
motion will raise the catch r and pawl d, allowing the pawl
to drop into the position shown in the illustration; then as

§56

PLAIN LOOMS

tlie loom is started again and the pawl b operates the ^ear^,,
tlie pawl d instead of holdingf the ^ear ^, will be pushed back
mantil it regains its former position » the catch c dropping into
the teeth on the pawl d and holding it at each pick. It will
^e seen from the illustration that the loom will have to run
three picks before the take-up motion will commence to wind
"«jp the cloth.

FILLING STOP-MOTION

33* The fUllnfir f^top-inotloii is applied for the purpose
of stopping the loom when the filling is broken or the bobbin
is empty. Without this motion the loom would continue to
run until stopped by the weaver. A view of the filling stop-
motion is shown in Fig. 21 (a) and {b), the latter being a
top view of the filling-fork slide and its connection with the
shipper handle.

This motion is situated at one side of the loom between
the selvage of the cloth and the shuttle box. Fastened to
the cam-shaft of the loom is the cam lii, known as the filling*
fork cam. This cam. in revohnng with the shaft, will alter-
nately lower and lift the lever «.* which is on the stud u^
the upper arm r being fastened to the lever ?#„ Thus, as the
lower part lu is moved up and down by the cam «,, the upper
arm r will receive a backward and forward motion*

The filling fork w, is pivoted at the point s, its forward
end resembling an ordinary three-pronged fork and being
lient almost at right angles to the main part; the other end
is bent in the same direction about f inch from the end,
thus allowing it to catch, when necessary, in the upper end of
the lever r, which is curved to facilitate catching the fork*
The filling fork is so nicely balanced that the least pressure
on its forward end will cause it to swing on its pivot, thus
giving it the position shown by the dotted lines.

In studying this motion, it should be understood that as
long as the loom is running* the upper end of the lever r is
constantly receiving a backward and forward motion, due to
the action of the cam u^ on the lower end of the lever fi*.

PLAIN LOOMS

§56

As the pick of filling^ left in the shed by the shuttle is pushed
forwards by the reed, it will come in contact with the prongs
of the fork 7/,, thus pushing this end
of the filling fork toward the front of
the loom and at the same time raising
its other end out of contact with the
upper part of the lever r. This motion
is so timed that this end of the lever is
about to engage with the filling fork
when the filling comes in contact with

the prongs.
On the
other hand,
should the
filling break
or run out,
the filling
fork will retain the position shown by
the full lines in the figure, and the lever
r in its forward movement, engaging
with the filling fork, will carry it for-
wards together with the slide u^ to
which the filling fork is attached.

The other end of this slide is in con-
tact with a lever w«, pivoted at the
point k. As the slide is brought for-
wards by the action of the lever «„ it
will bring with it the lever //«, for-
cing this lever so strongly against the
shipper handle t' that the latter will be
pushed from its retaining notch z\ and
will spring to the other end of the slot
V, in which it works, thus causing it to
occuj^y the position shown in Fig. 21
ib). This motion of the shipper handle
will ship the belt from the tight to the loose pulley and stop
the loom.

§56

PLAIN LOOMS

BRAKE

34, Without some special device for stopping the loom
after the shipper handle is thrown out of its retaining notch
and the belt shipped from the tight to the loose pulley, the
loom would run for several picks owing to its great
momentum. This difficulty is overcome by the use of the

Pio. 22

brake, which will be found attached to every loom. Fig. 22
shows a common type of this mechanism.

On the ordinary plain loom, the shipper handle is auto-
Tnatically thrown out of its retaining notch under two condi-
tions— when the filling runs out or breaks, and when the shuttle
fails to enter either box properly. The manner in which the
shipper handle is operated under the former condition has
just been explained, and although mention has been made of
the manner in which the dagger of the protector motion
stops the loom when the shuttle is not boxed properly, this

40 PLAIN LOOMS §66

part of the loom should be considered with reference to
Fig. 22; b shows the dagger, which is also shown in Fig. 15.
In case this dagger is not lifted by means of the shuttle
pressing the finger of the protector motion outwards, it will
engage with the steel bunter in the frog and press the
casting b» against the shipper handle v, thus pushing the
shipper handle from its retaining notch and stopping
the loom.

In either case, when the shipper handle is released, it
springs to the end of its slide, and in doing so operates the
mechanism a, «, in such a manner as to lower the rod a,;
a, Ux is a simple crank arrangement so formed that the stud
to which the rod a, is connected may be readily raised or
lowered, thus raising or lowering the rod a,. As this rod is
lowered it allows the weight c^ to force the rod c downwards,
which, being pivoted at d and carrying the brake e, will force
the latter against the brake wheel / on the end of the crank-
shaft. When the belt is again shipped to the tight pulley by
means of the shipper handle Vy the entire mechanism is
automatically restored to its original position, leaving the
loom free to operate. In case it is desired to turn the crank-
shaft by hand, the brake wheel may be relieved of the action
of the brake by simply moving the handle a.

LOOM TEMPLES

35. The object of a pair of temples is to hold the cloth
out as wide as possible during the process of weaving, and
also to prevent the warp being drawn in or condensed
at any part by the drag of the filling. The strain on the
warp is so great that it is impossible to keep the cloth at the
temple as wide as the space occupied in the reed. Good
temples will, however, keep the cloth as near this width as
is necessary. They are made in a variety of ways, but the
temple consisting of a trough and roller is the most common.

Fig. 23 shows a sketch of a temple very largely in use, and
Fig. 24 shows its parts; a is the base plate, which is screwed
to the breast beam of the loom. To this are screwed the

€56

PLAIN LOOMS

stand ax and cap a„ which contain a spiral spring. The

J)art b has a long shank that is enclosed in a„ «,. The shank

"Works inside the spring,

l>eing provided with a

shoulder to keep the

spring in its place. The

parts bxy c enclose the
roll d, A spindle passes
through the roll and
holds it in position, at
the same time allow-
ing it to revolve freely.
This roll is usually
TTiade of wood, with
Small pins set in such
a. manner that they in-
c:^line toward the edge

Fio. 23

of the cloth. The cloth in being
Woven passes between the part c and the roll d\ consequently,
^s the cloth is wound down it turns the roll d, and is

psp^. I

o
o

^^0

\t^

Fic. 21

distended to its full width through the inclination of
small pins.

the

42 PLAIN LOOMS §66

SHUTTLE GUARD

36. Serious accidents sometimes occur in the weave
room, due to the shuttles flying out of the loom. To prevent
this as much as possible, there is fastened to the reed cap a
device known as the sliuttle |4:uard. It consists, generally,
of a wire rod k\, Fig. 12, extending across the front of the
reed cap and projecting over that part of the race plate on
which the shuttle travels, so that if the shuttle rises it will
strike this rod, and either be turned into the yarn again or
run over the yarn until it strikes the opposite box.

This rod makes it inconvenient for the weaver to draw in
broken ends through the reed; consequently, some loom
builders provide their looms with a wire rod or metal strip
that can be turned up and laid flat against the reed cap, thus
putting it out of the way of the weaver when drawing in
ends. The weaver puts it in place again before starting
the loom.

L.EA8E RODS

37. Between the harnesses and the whip roll of the
loom are placed what are known as the Irase rods. The
object of these rods is to separate the ends so as to prevent
any entangling that might otherwise result. They also
enable the weaver to piece up broken ends.

Lease rods are of two sizes, the smaller being placed in
front. They are made of material that will stand the friction
of the ends without having a groove cut in them, usually
being made of tin, or of wood covered with varnish or black
enamel.

PlTl^I.KYS

38. There are two kinds of driving pulleys in common
use on looms today; namely, the tl|JClit-aiid-loose pulleys,
where the belt is shifted from one to the other, and the
friction pulh^v. The tight-and-loose pulleys are found
mostly on the plain loom, since they are the least expensive

S 66 PLAIN LOOMS 43

id are more easily kept in repair, and for cotton looms
^^^^ light and medium goods answer the purpose.

The friction pulley is more commonly found on heavy
"^^^ork, since it more readily imparts the speed to the loom;
^^^^"hile with the tight-and-loose pulley at least one pick must
"fc>^ run before the loom will r^ach its full speed. Looms
'■^ir^ay be belted from above or from below.

39. Po-wer Necessary to Drive a lioom. — The
X>ower to drive a loom is variously estimated at from i to i
ixorsepower. A very wide loom weaving coarse goods,
xxecessitating the use of a large shuttle and great tension on
"^lie warp, absorbs more power than a narrow loom on light
Snoods. Looms equipped with dobbies or box motions absorb
'KKore power than plain looms.

Tests made have resulted as follows: Plain looms

30 inches wide on goods of light sley and pick, yarns aver-

^ging 70s, were operated with i horsepower; 30-inch looms

Ymnning 150 picks per minute on heavy goods, absorbed

"^ horsepower; 30-inch looms on standard drills running

3.80 picks per minute, averaged three and one-half looms to

^ horsepower. For general purposes about four looms to

i horsepower is a safe estimate.

40. Space Occupied. — The space occupied by a 40-inch
loom is 7' 71^' X 3' 8''. This is for a loom that has a lay
S7i inches over all, a reed space of 48 inches, and will weave
-44-inch cloth.

CALCULATIONS

41. There are but few calculations required in connec-
tion with the plain loom. The first is regarding the speed
of the loom. This is always figured in picks per minute,
and corresponds in almost every loom to the number of
revolutions that the crank-shaft makes per minute.

The crank-shaft in most looms carries the driving pulley,
which receives motion from the weave-room shaft, and, con-
sequently^ if the revolutions of the crank-shaft are obtained,
the answer gives the number of picks per minute.

91—16

44 PLAIN LOOMS

The principal calculation in connection with the plain loom
is with regard to the take-up motion. The picks per inch
that are inserted in the cloth depend on the rate at which the
sand roll is driven forwards, taking up the cloth as it is
woven. There are innumerable styles of take-up motions,
although in general principles they are almost all alike, the
difference being in the number of gears and in the diameters
of sand rolls.

To determine the driving and driven gears of the take-up
motion when calculating the change gear, always commence
with the sand roll, which in all cases is considered as a
driver. To find the change gear to give the number of
picks required when it is a driver, apply the following rule:

Rule l.-^Multiply the driven gears together ^ and divide by
the drivers^ circumfere7ice in inches of sand roll, and picks per
ituh required.

To find the change gear when it is a driven, apply rule II:

Rule II. — Multiply the driving gears, circumfertfice in
inches of sa7id roll, and picks required together, and divide the
result by the drive^i gears.

To find the constant of a take-up motion, apply rule III:

Rule III. — Multiply the driven gears together, and divide by
the drivers and circumfere?ice in inches of sand roll, leaving
change gear and picks Per ifich out of the calculations.

When the chayige gear is a driver, the constant will be divided
by the picks per inch to obtaiii the change gear.

When the change gear is a driven, the picks per iiich required
will be divided by the constant, ifi order to obtain the chaiige
gear.

In obtaining the change gear for a take-up motion, a cer-
tain percentage is generally taken from the actual measure-
ment of the sand roll to allow for any contraction that takes
place in the length of the cloth after it is taken from the
loom. About 2 per cent, will cover all cases, although
different builders allow different rates.

In figuring the change gear for a loom, it is always neces-
sary to notice what part of the loom is working the pawl

§56 PLAIN LOOMS 45

that drives the ratchet wheel. It will be remembered that
the cam-shaft revolves only once while two picks are being
placed in the cloth; consequently, if the take-up motion is
driven from the cam-shaft, it will operate but once in two
picks. On this account, it is necessary when figuring change
gears that are driven from the cam-shaft, to multiply the
number of teeth in the ratchet wheel by 2.

When the take-up motion is driven by any part of the loom
that operates every pick, such as the lay sword, the ratchet
wheel is figured with its exact number of teeth.

Example 1 . — Find the change gear necessary to give 64 picks per
inch with the take-up motion shown in Figs. 19 and 20, considering g^
as the change gear.

Solution.— The ratchet gearjf, is driven from the cam-shaft and,
consequently, will be considered as a gear of double the number of
teeth that it actually contains. Deducting 2 per cent, from the circum-
ference of the sand roll gives 14.21 as the circumference to be used
vrhen figuring for the change gear. The change gear g^ is a driver;
therefore, applying rule I,

48X27X200 .o , ,. i,

■l4r20<T6 x"64 " l^-t"ot^ change gear. Ans.

Example 2. — Find the change gear necessary to give 50 picks with
the take-up motion illustrated in Fig. 20, considering the gear g^ as
the change gear.

SoLtJTiON. — The change gear /fa is a driven gear; therefore, applying
rule II,

16 X 16 X 14.21 X 56 ^, ^ ^, .
jQ \y "ioci ~ 21 -tooth gear necessary. Ans.

Example 3. — Find the constant for the take-up motion illustrated
in Fig. 20, considering the gear ^a as the change gear.

Solution. — Applying rule III,

48 X *^00

42, To find the production of a loom, apply the following
rule:

Rule. — Multiply the itumber of picks per rniriuie of the loom
by the 7iumber of minutes i?i 1 hou?' and by the number of hours,
and divide by the number of picks per inch beitig inserted in the

46 PLAIN LOOMS §66

cloth y and then by the number of inches in a yard. Deduct from
this an allowance for stoppages.

The allowance for stoppages varies according to the class
of goods being woven, but it is usually assumed that 10 per
cent, is sufficient on ordinary plain cloth.

ExAMPLB. — ^A loom runs 180 picks per minute, 58 hours per week,
and the cloth contains 64 picks per inch. The loom runs 90 per cent,
of the possible time. Find the number of yards produced in a week.^

Solution. — 180 picks per min. X 60 (min. in hr.) = 10,800 picks
per hr. 10,800 picks X 58 (hr. per wk.) = 626,400 picks per wk.
626,400 -5- 64 (picks per in.) = 9,787.5 in. per wk.
9,787.50 ■¥ 36 (in. in 1 yd.) = 271.87 yd. per wk.
90 per cent, of 271.87 = 244.6830 yd. Ans.

FIXING LOOMS

DEFINITIONS

1. There are several terms applied to a loom and its
parts which will be frequently used, and consequently should
be defined so that the student may fully understand their
application.

If, when facing the front of a loom, the shipper handle is
at a person's right, it is said to be a rlfcht-liand loom. If
the shipper handle is at. the person's left, it is a left-hand
loom.

To determine whether a shuttle is right- or left-hand, hold
the shuttle with the top, which carries the larger opening,
upwards and the heel pointing toward the person. If, when
in this position, the eye of the shuttle is on the person's
right, it is a left-hand shuttle; if on the person's left, it
is a right-hand shuttle. Right-hand shuttles are run in
right-hand looms, and left-hand shuttles in left-hand looms.

By the term heel of the shuttle is meant that end which
does not contain the eye.

The different parts of a loom are all set with relation to
the position of the crank-shaft, which is variously spoken of
as bemg on its top, bottom, front, or back center,
according to whether the crank on this shaft is at its highest,
lowest, front, or back position, respectively.

The expression turii the loom over, or pick the loom over^ a
certain number of picks, is frequently met with in the mill
and implies turning the crank-shaft one or more revolutions,
as may be indicated.

For notice of copyrights see page immediately following the title Page
267

■ in p

ERECTING AND STARTING LOOMS

2, lu setting^ up new looms, care should be taken to have
them perfectly square with the line shaft. To accomplish
this, drop a plumb-line from two points on the line shaft,
and from the points where the plumb-bob touches the floor
measure out the distance that the looms are to be placed.
This gives two point^i equally distant from the line shaft.
Between these two points stretch a chalked line; raise this
line at the center, and then let it drop. This will produce
a mark on the floor perfectly parallel with the line shaft.
The looms are then set with their feet just touching this
line. A spirit level should next be placed on the breast
beam and loom sides, in order to ascertain if the looms
are level* If they are not, they should be made so by
jjlacing packing under the loom feet. After this has been
accomplished » the looms should be firmly fastened to
the floor.

The loom is now ready for the belt. In order to obtain
the length of belt required, pass a line around the pulley
on the line shaft, and also around the pulley on the loom.
Cut the line to the exact length; then lay it on the floor and
cut the belt to correspond with the line. It should be
remembered that belts will stretch after being run a short
time; consequently, they should be cut from 1 to 2 inches
short, according to their length,

3. The best way to fasten loom belts is by means of
bell clasps* since when fastened In this manner they wear
longer and give belter satisfaction. Care should be taken
in putting on a clasp to prevent its being flattened. The

t should be hammered and not the clasp. It is also a
id plan to place a piece of leather or wood on the belt

when fastening the clasp. This will prevent any turning of

the points.

§57 FIXING LOOMS 3

4. The loom should be run for some time without the
warp, but with all the parts set and with the reed and shuttle
in position; during this limberirtg up the loom should be
thoroughly oiled, much more frequently than during the
ordinary running of a loom.

TYING IN WARPS

5. When the warp is brought to the loom, the beam is
placed in the supports at the back. The warp yam, together
with the harnesses and the reed, is then passed over the
whip roll to the center of the loom, and the harnesses con-
nected at the top to the straps attached to the top rolls,
and at the bottom to the jack-straps that connect them with
the treadles, although the latter may be done after the warp
has been tied in. The reed is then fixed in the lay, where a
groove has been cut to receive it, and the lay cap, which
also contains a groove and fits upon the top of the reed, is
then fixed in position.

A piece of cloth known as the apron, and which should
be the same width as the cloth to be woven, is passed
around the sand roll and carried over the breast beam.
Bunches of the warp yarn are then taken and tied to the
apron, which should be torn in strips at this end. Care
must be taken that all the ends of the warp are drawn at an
equal tension before being tied to the apron. The warp is
then loosened and turned down by turning either the sand
roll or the ratchet gear by hand. A few picks of filling are
then placed in the warp in order to tie the ends.

It is necessary to perform the operation of tying in a warp
as just described each time that an old warp is replaced by a
new one, but on a new loom a number of additional opera-
tions are necessary, known as settings.

FIXING LOOMS §57

SETTINGS

REGULATING THE SIZE QF BIIED

6, The size of shed is, of course, largely dependent on

the throw of the harness cams, and this point is dependent
on the class of goods that it is intended to run, and is
generally decided on before the looms are ordered. How-
ever, the size of the shed may also be regulated, to a certain
extent, by means of changing the point at which the jack-
strap is connected to the treadle, since the farther this point
is from the fulcrum on which the treadle rests, the greater
is the distance through which it will be moved, and as a
result the size of the shed will be increased.

A good rule to follow when regulating the size of the
shed, is to have the shed large enough to clear the shuttle,
by, say, about i inch. In some cases, however, when the
work is light and there are no loose fibers in the yam, it
will be found to be an advantage to reduce the size of the
shed, the chafing due to the shuttle rubbing against the yam
being more than compensated for by the fact that less strain
will be placed on the yarn, due to the harnesses not lifting
so high.

SETTING HARNESS CAMS

7. When sotting the harness eains for ordinary work,
in order to have them move the harnesses in the correct man-
ner, turn the crank-shaft until it is on its bottom center; then
turn the harness cams on the cam-shaft until the treadles are
exactly level. Fasten the setscrew in the cams when the
loom is in this position. This will bring the harnesses level
when the reed is about 2i inches from the fell of the cloth.
It should be noticed that this is for ordinary setting of the
harness cams.

If the harness cams are set so that the harnesses will be
level before the reed reaches this point, that is, before the
crank-shaft reaches its bottom center, the harnesses are said
to be set early; on the other hand, if the harnesses do not

FIXING LOOMS

become level until the crank-shaft has passed its bottom
center, the harnesses are said to be set late.

The crank'Shaft should next be turned until it is on its
back center; the lay will then be in its backward position
and the harnesses should be open to their fullest extent.
When in this position the yam that forms the bottom shed
should just clear the race plate of the lay. If the yarn
presses on the race plate it will be chafed, and breakage
of the ends will result. On the other hand, if the yam is too

thigh, it is liable to give the shuttle an upward tendency as it
inters the shed, which often results in the shuttle either
being thrown from the loom or not passing straight from
one box to the otlier; in fact, it will result in a nnmber of
faults, which will make both bad cloth and low production.
The position of the yarn when the harnesses are open can
be regulated by raising or lowering the harnesses by means

fpl the strap connections.
The crank-sbaft should next be turned over one pick.
This will bring the yarn, which formerly formed the top
shed, at the bottom. This bottom shed should be regulated

II the same manner as the previous one*
8. Dltrerent 8etttfi||« of Harness Cams. — ^It has
een stated that, for ordinary setting of the harness cams,
the crank'shaft should be on the bottom center w^hen the
harnesses are level. It has also been stated that this would
^fcring the harnesses level when the reed is about 2i inches
^Jrom the fell of the cloth; that is» the top and bottom sheds
^vould close over the picks of filling when they w^ere required
^o be pushed 2 J inches in order to form part of the cloth*
This means that if the clotli was being woven with 64 picks
Hto the inch and the loom set in this manner, each warp end
In moving the 2h inches would be chafed by the pushing up
of 64 X 2i (or 160) picks of filling after the sheds have
crossed over them. This chafing of the warp ends would
raise the fibers of the cotton and give to the cloth a well-
covered appearance, which would be lacking if the cams
were set late.

6 FIXING LOOMS ' §57

It can readily be seen that if the cams were set earlier
and the harnesses were made to change when the reed
was about 3 inches from the fell of the cloth, a greater
chafing of the warp would result; consequently, more of
the fibers would be raised and more covering produced.
On the other hand, if the harness cams were set later, the
opposite effect would be produced and the cloth would have
a bare appearance.

Some warps are so tender that, in order to weave them at
all, they must be favored to every possible extent. When
this is the case, the harness cams should be set so that the
warp ends will be chafed as little as possible.

LEASE ROI>S

9. The object of the lease rods is to retain the lease of
the warp ends. This is necessary in order to keep the ends
from becoming tangled, and also to enable the weaver to
readily piece up any broken ends. To lease a plain warp,
turn the crank-shaft until the back harness is up; then place
the larger of the two lease rods in the shed that is formed
back of the harnesses. Next turn the crank-shaft over
until the front harness is raised, and place the other rod in
this shed.

Although the lease rods may appear to be insignificant,
they phiy an important part in the running of a loom. With
very little thought it will be seen that when the front harness
is uj) and the back harness down, the warp ends will open up
from a point between the two lease rods; but when the posi-
tion of the harnesses is reversed, the warp ends will open up
from a point in front of the front lease rod. Thus it will be
noticed that it would be impossible to produce as large a
shed when the yarn is opening from a point in front of the
lease rods without producing more strain on the yam. To
overcome this difficulty, the dimensions of the front lease rod
should be as small as possible; then, by regulating the lever-
age of the treadles, the difference in the size of the sheds
may be made almost imperceptible.

§57

FIXING LOOMS

EFFECT OF P08ITI0N OF WARP LINE

10. The warp line may be defined as an imaginary line
drawn from the top of the whip roll to the top of the breast
beam and passing through the shed when open. This will
be seen by reference to Fig. 1 , where a represents the whip
roll; h^ the breast beam; fee, the line of the top shed; fde^
the line of the bottom shed; and ab, the warp line.

The position that the warp line ab assumes forms an
important point in the production of cloth on which there is
to be more or less cover. In Fig. 1, the warp line ab forms
the line aefb of the warp yarn; in other words, when the
harnesses are open, the warp line passes through the center

FlG.l

of the shed; consequently, when the shed is open, as shown
in this figure, there will be an equal strain on both sets of
warp threads, since both harnesses move an equal distance
from the point at which they become level.

When the warp line occupies this position, it generally
results in the cloth having a hard, reedy appearance; that is,
the warp ends have the appearance of being laid in the cloth
in pairs, since two ends will be close together and a space
between these and the next two. This appearance of the
cloth is sometimes desired, though, as a rule, it is generally
considered a defect.

Fig. 2 is an illustration of the warp line when in a different
position. In this instance, the whip roll and the breast beam
have been raised, and it will be seen that the warp line a b
passes through the upper half of the shed. This will result

FIXING LOOMS

§57

in the yam in the top shed being more slack than the yam
in the bottom shed. Then, as the pick of filling is beaten
up by the reed, it will spread the yarn that forms the
top shed between the ends that form the bottom shed.
This will tend to give the cloth an even appearance, and
Will remedy the faults that have been spoken of in con-
nection with the warp line running through the center of
the shed.

It should be noted in this connection that as the whip
roll and breast beam are raised, the strain on the yam
of the bottom shed will be correspondingly increased; conse-
quently, in setting a loom to obtain a cloth that will
have a full appearance, it is necessary to consider the

Fig. J

Strength of the warp yarn. If the warp is tender, it is best
to set the whip roll and breast beam in such a manner
that the warp line will pass through the center, of the
shed. This will cause the top and bottom lines of the shed
to be raised and lowered eciually, and will produce the least
strain possible.

It may be stated that any setting of the loom to produce
cover or a full appearance in the cloth, puts a greater strain
on the warp ends, and in setting a loom to give either of
these results, care should be taken not to go to such an
extreme that the advantages gained in one direction will be
lost in another.

I&7

FIXING LOOMS

SETTING PICKING CAMS

11. Plcklngr earns are now generally made in two
parts — ^the pickiiifir cam proper aad the plckiuic-eam
poLui, which is fastened to the picking cam by means of
bolts. The picking-cam point is the part that comes in con-
tact with the pick cone, and is made separate, since it is
more convenient to replace only this part as it wears out
than k would be to replace the whole picking cam. This
method of construction also saves considerable expense.

In placing the picking cam on the cam-shaft, it should be
in such a position that it will come in contact with a point
about midway of the length of the pick cone; then^ if any
further adjustment is necessary, it may be moved either way.

12, To set a pieklu§r earn, turn the crank-shaft until it
is on its top center; then set the picking cam so that it will
just start to move the picker stick. Turn the crank-shaft

^ until it is on its top center again, when the pick cam on the
other side of the loom should be set in the same mannen

If the student remembers that the crank-shaft revolves
twice while the cam-shaft is revolving once» it will readily
be understood that one pick cam will operate on one pick,
and the other on the next, as the cam-shaft revolves only
once every two picks.

13* Some fixers think that the harness cam that is
pressing down the harness should be the one nearest the
picking cam operating that pick; that is, if the right-hand
cam is pressing down the harness, the picking cams should
be set so that the loom will pick from the right-hand side.
This is merely a notion, as it is immaterial from which side
the loom is picking.

If the picking cams are set so that the point of the cam
starts to raise the pick cone before the crank-shaft reaches
its top center, the loom is said to be picking early. On
the other hand, if the picking cam does not start the pick
cone until the crank-shaft has passed its top center, the
loom is said to be picking late*

10 FIXING LOOMS §67

SETTING THE LUG STRAP

14. On the lug strap that is around the picker stick,
there is usually placed a small strip of leather, which is
fastened to the picker stick by means of a screw. This
serves to hold the lug strap in position. By lowering or
raising this lug strap, more or less power is given to the
pick; that is, if the lug strap is raised on the picker stick
there will be less power, and if it is lowered the opposite
effect will be the result.

Power is a term that in this instance refers to the force
that the picking cam imparts to the shuttle. It is the object,
of every good fixer to run his looms with as little power
as possible.

A good setting for the lug strap is to have it in such a
position that the lug strap which is connected to the picker
stick will be on a level with the lug strap connected to
the picking-shaft arm. If possible, the lug strap connected
with the picker stick should never be on a lower level
than the rest of the connections, since when in this position
it has a tendency to slide up on the picker stick, due
to the force coming from above the point where it is
connected. This is very liable to result in a weak pick
and the shuttle not receiving sufficient power to reach the
opposite box.

In placing lug straps on a loom, care should be taken that
they have a little play. Under no condition should they
be tight when the picker stick is at rest at the outer end
of the box. When the picker stick is brought back to its
extreme position against the back end of the box, it
should strike against a strip of leather placed in the slot.
This prevents the stick being damaged, which would
be the case if the iron end of the box were not protected.
The distance that the picker stick travels in moving
from the back to the front of the box, or the sweep of the
picker stick, can he regulated by taking up or letting out
the lug straps.

§&7 ' FIXING LOOMS 11

STARTING PICKERS

i 6. When placing pickers on the picker stick, the part
*^^^t: rests on the bottom of the box is generally cut in such a
"^ ^^:«raner that, if the picker is held perpendicular, this part will
* ^^^Krat upwards toward that side of the picker which comes in
^^^^ '■"^ tact with the picker stick. It will be seen that by doing
^ *- ^ the under side of the picker will be parallel with the
^^^ t torn of the box when the picker stick is starting to deliver
'^^^ shuttle.

*^ Jo place a picker on the picker stick, have the picker stick

^ 7^ 'its backward throw, and place the picker so that its under

^^^^e will just clear the bottom of the box. Bring the shuttle

^^ hard against the picker so as to mark it. Where this

^^^ ^rk comes on the picker, cut a small circular hole for the

^^eption of the shuttle point. Next fasten the picker by

^^^^^ans of the loop, or collar, that passes around the picker

^"^d that is fastened to the picker stick by either tacks or

Screws. Bring the picker stick forwards to the limit of its

^-iirow, and notice where the hole in the picker comes in

delation to the point of the shuttle. Under no conditions

should it be lower, since this would have a tendency to raise

that point of the shuttle which first enters the shed, thereby

resulting in the shuttle being thrown out, or at least in its

going crooked.

16. It is generally the practice to have the hole in the
picker, when the picker stick is at the limit of its forward
throw, a little higher (say about "A" inch) than that point of
the shuttle with which the picker is in contact. This will
slightly depress the forward end of the shuttle, or the end
first entering the shed, and consequently render the shuttle
less liable to fly out.

If, when trying the picker, it is found to be too low, it may
be regulated by placing a very thin strip of leather between
the front side of the picker stick and the top part of the clasp
through which the bolt that fastens the picker stick to the
parallel motion passes. Some looms are provided with a

12 FIXING LOOMS §6^

setscrew that contains a check-nut, this setscrew beings
fastened to the rocker of the parallel motion. By means o:f
this, the picker may be adjusted to its proper height witkm
respect to the point of the shuttle.

Considerable care should be exercised in the setting: ot
pickers, particularly after they have been worn a great deal
by the point of the shuttle striking them; if they are not set
right, they will throw the shuttle crooked. If the shuttle for
any cause is being thrown in this manner, it will generally
be noticed by means of a clicking sound, which is due to the
shuttle striking the side of the opposite box as it enters it.

It will be remembered that a slot is cut in the bottom of
the shuttle box, in which the picker stick moves while deliver-
ing the shuttle. At the forward end of this slot, or the end
nearer the loom, thick strips of leather are placed. These
form what are known as hunters, and serve as cushions for
the picker stick as it is brought forwards.

STARTING PICKER STICKS

17. In setting the picker stick with regard to the
length of the sweep, turn the crank-shaft until the picker
stick is brought to the forward end of its stroke; when in
this position, it should be from 1 to 2 inches from the
hunter. It should never have so much sweep that it will
be brought in contact with the hunter while the picking
cam is in contact with the pick cone, since under such
conditions the picker stick is very apt to be split.

SETTING BINDERS AND BINDER STRAPS

18. The shuttle being sent with such force from one
side of the loom to the other, some arrangement must be
provided by means of which it can be checked gradually
instead of being brought to an abrupt stop, since if this is
not done, not only will the picker and picker stick wear out
much more quickly, but what is to be still more avoided, the
shuttle in striking the picker will rebound, thus leaving some

FIXING LOOMS

space between the picker and shuttle. Then as the picker
stick is broil if ht forwards to again drive the shuttle across
Hie loom, it will have to move some distance before bring-
ing the picker in contact with the shuttle. As a result, the
force of the blow will be greatly lessened, and the shuttle
will probably not reach the opposite box in time to prevent

I the warp yarn closing on it* The binder and other appli-
ances attached to the boxes of the loom serve to hold the
Up of the shuttle in actual contact with the picker while
the shuttle is in the box.
19. It is the object of all good loom fixers to have their
looms set in such a manner that the least possible wear will
be brought upon the different parts. To accomplish this,
the least power that will send the shuttle across the loom
and into the opposite box should alw^ays be sought. It can
readily be understood that the tighter the shuttle boxes are
made, the more force will be required to drive the shuttles
into them; consequently, all boxes should be set so that
they will no more than theik the shuttle and at the same
time retain it in its position after it has fully entered
the box.

Many different methods of setting the binder are advo-
cated, the one aim being to set it in such a manner that the
shuttle on entering the box will receive a uniform and gradual
check. In order to procure this, tl:^e shuttle should com-
mence to press against the binder only when its widest part
comes in contact with that part of the binder that projects
into the box. It shield then steadily press out the binder
until that part of the shuttle which first came in contact with
the binder has reached the other end of the projeciion on the
binder. When set in this manner the binder will present the
full face of its curvature to the side of the shuttle when
the shuttle is at rest in the box.

20* It will be noticed that the shuttle may, in some cases,

Strike the binder with sufficient force to throw the finger out

ith such suddenness that it will nut act as a check after

le shuttle has once come in contact with the binder. To

01 -IT

14 FIXING LOOMS §67

prevent this, a strip of leather known as the binder strap
is placed around the fing^er.

To attach the binder strap to the loom, have the shuttle
in the box so that the binder will be at its outward limit;
then stretch the binder strap of leather over the finger,
drawing it tight and fastening it with screws. In case the
binder is placed at the front of the box, a casting is placed
on the protector rod to serve the purpose of the binder strap.

STARTING SHUTTI-ES

21, The regulating of the shuttles forms an important
part of the fixer's duties. In all cases, a weaver should
have at least two shuttles for each loom, so that when the
filling in one shuttle runs out, a full one will be ready with
which to replace the empty one. It is necessary, therefore,
to have the shuttles that are to run in the same loom exactly
alike, both in regard to their size and weight. If this is not
attended to, the power suitable to carry one will not be
right for the other.

22, In starting a new pair of shuttles a pair of calipers
should be run the length of each shuttle to make sure that
they are of an exact size. They should also be weighed
in order to ascertain that their weights^ are alike. After
shuttles have been running for some time they will become
worn, and consequently their size and weight will not remain
the same; then when the shuttle box has been set for one
shuttle it will not be found to work correctly with the other.
To overcome this it is necessary to frequently true the
shuttles. In truing shuttles some fixers use a plane; others
rub the shuttles on a strip of coarse sandpaper, which may be
tacked to the bench. Either method will answer the purpose.

23, A cause of considerable trouble is the liability of
the shuttles to accumulate dirt on their sides, thus causing
them to stick as they enter or leave the boxes; consequently,
they should always be carefully looked after in order to do
away with this evil. This more properly comes under the

§57

FIXING LOOMS

weaver's than the fixer's duties* although such things are
often left for the latter to attend to.

24. Generally a small piece o£ flannel, known as friction
riatxtiel, is tacked to the shuttle at that part of the eye
where the filling first enters it. This serves tu keep the
filling at a certain tension while running out of the shuttles*

25. Care should be taken tbat the reed is exactly in
line with the back of the shuttle boxes. If it projects
beyond this part, the shuttle in striking it will be turned
from its true course.

The race plate should also be on an exact level with the
bottom of the shuttle boxes, any other position being detri-
mental to a satisfactory running of the shuttle in its flight
from one box to the other. In order to ascertain whether
the race plate is set in this manner, place a straightedge in
either box, having it rest on the bottom. When in this
position, see that its whole edge is in contact with the
race plate and the bottom of tlie box.

SETTING THE PROTECTOR MOTION

26. To set the protector inotlon, have the shuttle out
of the box; then adjust the fingers at the back of the boxes
in such a manner that they will press against the binders;
bring the lay forwards and see that the dagger engages with
the hunter on the frog. Next insert the shuttle in the box
and see that the dagger clears the bunter, by about I inch,
when the lay is brought forwards. If there is not the proper
space between the dagger and the hunter when the shuttle is
in the box, the sides of the boxes will have to be adjusted in
order that the shuttle when in the box will press the binder
out sufficiently far to cause the finger to give the dagger the
correct elevation.

The protector should be well oiled and work quite freely,
since if there is any inclination on its part to stick, it is
liable at any time to fail to knock off the loom when the
shuttle is trapped in the shed.

16 FIXING LOOMS §57

FILLING STOP-MOTION

27. To set the filling^ stop-motion, have the shuttle
on the filling-fork side of the loom; this is, in almost all
cases on modem looms, the side on which is placed the
shipper handle; then bring the lay up to the full throw of
the crank, so that it is on its front center. When the loom
is in this position, turn the filling-fork cam on the cam-shaft
until its point is just commencing to raise the lever on
which It acts. Notice the position of the finger of this lever
in relation to the back end of the filling fork. There should
be a space of about i inch between them.

The filling fork is, at times, the cause of considerable
trouble. It should be carefully balanced on the pin that
supports it, the back end being just a trifle heavier than
the forward end. The prongs should be bent in such a man-
ner that they will just project through the grid when the lay
is at the farthest throw forwards. Care should also be taken
that the prongs of the fork come in contact with no part of
the lay or grid during its operation.

TEMPLES

28. There is not much that would be considered difficult
in setting the temples of a loom, the principal points being
to note that they hold the cloth out to a sufficient width to
prevent the breaking of the selvage ends. It is well under-
stood that the yarn is somewhat wider when in the reed than
it is after it has become cloth; consequently, as the lay is
brought forwards in beating up the filling, considerable
strain is brought upon the selvage ends. The temples
should be set as near the fell of the cloth as possible
without interfering with the yarn, so that they will relieve
the selvage ends as much as possible.

Care should be taken that the bar of the temple does not
come in contact with the race plate of the loom, although' on
plain work the bar is generally set as near as possible to
the race plate.

§57 FIXING LOOMS 17

The temple should also be prevented from coming in
contact with the reed. To prevent this, the temple is pro-
vided with a heel, which the lay of the loom strikes when
coming forwards, and pushes back. It is not considered
necessary that the temple in being thus pushed back should
move through more than i inch.

Temples should always be kept well oiled so that the
rollers will work freely.

LET-OFF AND TAKE-UP MOTIONS

29. In regulating the let-off and take-up motions,
care should always be taken to have the warp tight enough
to prevent any slack cloth on the breast beam. When watch-
ing a loom running, it will sometimes be noticed that the
lay, in beating up the filling, will cause considerable slack in
the cloth when the reed comes in contact with the fell.
When this is the case, weight should be added to the let-off
motion.

30, In setting the take-up motion, be sure that the
take-up pawl acts on only one tooth of the ratchet wheel at a
time. If the pawl takes up one tooth of the ratchet wheel
for a number of picks and then acts on two teeth, bad cloth
is sure to result. A good rule to follow in setting the pawls
is to turn the loom until the take-up pawl is at its full for-
ward throw; then set the stop-pawl so that it will rest in a
tooth at a point that is about half the depth of that tooth.
If, after having done this, the pawls do not work properly,
the gears will have to be adjusted.

18 FIXING LOOMS §57

KEEPING THE LOOM IN GOOD
RUNNING CONDITION

31. The settings of the loom that have just been
described have been given in relation to the starting of a
new loom and are more or less permanent; consequently,
they do not have to be attended to again until parts of the
loom have become misplaced or worn, unless widely differ-
ent styles of goods are to be woven that require the parts to
be set differently.

However, after a loom has been running some time, many
things combine to throw it out of order, and the fixer very
soon has new problems to contend with. It would be well
to consider what action of the loom has the most to do with
this, and point out what method is best to adopt to reduce
the liability of breakages to a minimum.

32. Probably no part of a power loom is so hard to
understand, and consequently so hard to keep in good run-
ning order, as the pick. To procure a good, smooth-running
pick necessitates so many different parts of the loom being
regulated that the fixer will very often overlook the one
vital point.

A very great strain, together with considerable wear,
is brought on the loom on account of the^ picking
movement. Shuttles, pickers, straps, and all other parts
connected with it are constantly wearing out or breaking;
and if the best of care is not taken, the cost for
these supplies will soon surpass the allotted amount.
Much of this is caused by the harshness of the pick,
and consequently the easier this can be accomplished,
the better it will be for the fixer, as well as the manu-
facturer. But even when all that is possible has been
done, there will be considerable wear and tear that it will
be impossible to overcome.

§57

FIXING LOOMS

33. The picker stick in delivering the shuttle, in addi-
tion to supplying: force enough to send the shuttle across
the loom^ is also obliged to overcome the resistance of the
binder pressing against the side of the shuttle. As soon as
the shuttle leaves the box, this additional strain is removed,
and, consequently, the power that has been exerted in push-
ing the shuttle from the box will now be applied to some
other part of Uie loom. As a result, the other moving
parts of the loom will have a tendencj' to jump forwards, on
the same principle that a body having a force acting on it,
but restrained by friction, will move rapidly in the direction
of the force applied if that friction is suddenly removed,
This is known as the reaction of the loom^ and it can
easily be seen that the more of a drag there is to the pick,
the greater will be this reaction, and consequently the
greater will be the wear and tear, not only on the parts of
the loom in direct connection with the picking motion, but in
fact on all the parts of the loom.

It can readily be understood that the less pressure that is
brought to hear 0n the shuttle while in the box, the better it
will be for the loom; but, at the same time another point
should be considered, namely, that there always must be suf-
ficient pressure to prevent the shuttle rebounding when it
strikes the picker in entering the box. This leads to the
consideration of another point, namely, the pawer ^i the pick.

34, The first requirement of the picking motion may be
said to be the sending of the shuttle through the shed in a
very short period of time. Next, it must give to the shuttle
sufficient power to enable it to enter the box* Thus it will
be seen that these two features of fixing^ — setting the boxes
and regulating the pick — ^may be said to act one upon the
other; for the tighter the box, the stronger must be the pick;
and the stronger the pick, the tighter must be the box. In
regulating the pick, it should be the aim of every fixer to
give it just sufficient power to do its work and no more;
then the tension of the box should be regulated to corre-
spond with the power of the pick.

20 FIXING LOOMS §57

35. In every case when the shuttle fails to reach the
opposite box. whether on account of its meeting with some
obstruction or on account of its not receiving sufficient force
from the picker stick, the dagger on the protector rod engages
with the frog and the loom is stopped. This is known as
banfiTinnc off, and it can be seen that the suddenness with
which the loom is checked will necessarily bring consider-
able strain on the different parts. In some cases, the
momentuni of the loom is so great and the shock so severe
that the teeth in the gear on the end of the shafts will be
broken, owing to the tendency of the gear to revolve after
the loom is stopped; or, in other cases, the lay swords may
be broken.

The liability of such things happening may, however, be
greatly lessened by carefully setting the different parts.
The teeth in the gears on the crank- and cam-shafts should
be sufficiently geared into each other, since if the teeth
merely touch each other at their points, the concussion due
to the sudden stopping of the loom will be much more
liable to cause breakage, than would be the case if the teeth
were properly geared.

36. When the loom is stopped by the dagger, the shipper
is pushed from its retaining notch, throwing the belt from
the tight to the loose pulley and applying the brake. It is
always well to keep this part of the loom set exact; for the
sooner the belt is removed from the fast to the loose pulley
and the brake brought to bear on the brake wheel, the
more quickly is the loom relieved of its momentum, and,
conseciuently, the less violent will be the concussion of the
parts. In fact, if these parts are properly adjusted, when a
loom is running at a fair speed, the belt is actually on the
loose pulley and the brake practically in full operation, by
the time any concussion takes place in the various parts, so
that it is robbed as much as possible of its violence.

37. Thus it will be seen that the loom may be fairly set
in motion and left in char^^c of the weaver — whose duty it is
to merely change the shuttles and repair broken yarn — and

§57 FIXING LOOMS 21

3ret, owing to its reactionary nature, it frequently gets out

of order and breaks some of its parts. The fixing of looms

is a duty that is peculiar to itself. Each part of a loom has

its particular work to do, and yet that part must act in har-

xnony with the loom as a whole. Consequently, to set down

^ny hard and fast rules for the fixing of any one of the diffi-

c^ulties that are sure to confront the fixer, would be absurd.

Mowever, by considering those difficulties that are the most

frequently met with, and by carefully studying the different

^circumstances that may cause them, some help may be given

"^o the student.

BANGING OFF

38. About the most frequent difficulty with which a
^^^rson fixing looms must contend, and one that is probably
^^Xae to as many different causes as any other, is the shuttle
^^CDt entering the box in time to prevent the dagger of the
^^x^otector motion engaging with the frog, and thus causing
"^Ine loom to ban^ off.

When seeking to remedy this difficulty, turn the crank-
shaft and see if the loom is picking properly; that is, if the
X>icker stick starts to move when the crank-shaft is on the
'top center, the cam may have slipped on the shaft and
"thus made the loom pick late. Another thing that should
l:>e noticed in connection with the pick cam is that, after
Tunning some time, its point is very apt to get worn.
When it has been so far worn that it will not serve its pur-
pose, it must be taken off and replaced by a new one.
The shed should be noted to see if there is sufficient room
for the shuttle, since a shed that does not open wide enough
will retard the progress of the shuttle.

Next notice the action of the boxes; ascertain, by pushing
the shuttle in or out. whether they are too tight. A person
easily becomes aecustoiiied to the necessary force required
to push the shuttles into the box, so it can readily be told
whether this needs changin^^ or not. The shuttles them-
selves arc freciuently the cause of this trouble. They should
be carefully examined, and, as there are two shuttles to each

22 FIXING LOOMS §67

loom, they should be compared and made exactly alike.
Sometimes one shuttle will run without any trouble at all,
but when the shuttles are changed there is frequent bang^ing
off. The cause then is almost sure to be with the shuttle,
although there may be other defects that are so slight that
the loom would run were it not for the fact that the defect
in the shuttle is acting together with them.

Very frequently some foreign substance will adhere to
the sides of the shuttles, causing them to stick as they leave
and enter the boxes; this should be noted. Observe the
position of the dagger, and see if there is plenty of clear-
ance between it and the frog when. the shuttle is in the box.
The finger may have slipped on the protector rod, or the
binder may not be shaped exactly right to give the required
lift to the dagger.

Notice the pickers; sometimes these are either worn
or in such a position that they will throw the shuttle
crooked, so that it will strike on the sides or top of the
opposite box in entering and thus retard its progress.
This defect can generally be noticed by a clicking
sound, caused by the shuttle as it hits the sides or top of
the box.

The driving belt may be too slack, and, consequently,
slipping; if this occurs just as the loom starts to pick, it is
very apt to banj^ off. This defect will show itself by a
tendency of the loom to slow down at times. This may not
be easily noticed by watching the loom run, but by placing
the hand on the lay when the loom is in motion, it may
be felt whenever it occurs.

The rocker should work freely on the shoe, and care
should be taken to prevent its binding in any part of
its action. Nothing has been said of bolts breaking and
such things as would be so apparent that a novice would
notice them.

39. If after all these different parts have been examined
and set right the loom still bangs off, more power must
be applied; but it must be understood that this is the last

§57 FIXING LOOMS 23

resort* Enough has already been said regarding the evils
of too much power*

Power may be added to the picking motion in several
places; the cam on the cam-shaft may be altered. By
sliding this cam toward the framework of the loom, more
power IS given to the pick; by bringing the cam nearer tlie
center of the loom^ less power is given to the pick. Another
part of the loom where the power of the pick may be regu-
lated, is the picker stick at the point where the lug strap
is connected* By lowering this connection more power is
given the pick, and by raising it the opposite effect is
obtained. In this connection, however, what has already
been said as regards the point of fastening the lug strap to
the picker stick; should be carefully observed.

Too much power will result in the loom banging off just
as readily as will too little power, since in this case the
shuttle, as it strikes the picker, will rebound and thus, as it
is being returned by the picker > lose a certain amount of the
force that should be given to it^ and, consequently t will not
reach the opposite box in time to prevent the loom from
banging off. Very little practice will enable one to dis-
cover this fault by simply watching the shuttle when th<
loom is running, and noticing whether it comes to rest when
it is well in the box and with its tip bearing against the
picker* It will be seen that a loose box will also cause the
shuttle to rebound.

Thus there are numerous points, any one of which may
cause the loom to bang off. Sometimes it is a combination
of two or three of these, and then it is that the fixer is
obliged to use his best judgment.

SHUTTLES GOING CROOKED AND FLYING OUT

40* If the speed at which the shuttle travels in passing
across the lay of the loom is kept in mind, it will not be
diffxcult to understand that any obstruction, however slight,
will ser\^e to throw it out of its course, and very probably
out of the loom.

24 FIXING LOOMS §57

When looking for the cause of this defect, the shedding
of the loom should be carefully considered. It is very
important that the bottom shed should not be so high that it
will give the point of the shuttle an upward tendency as it is
delivered by the picker; also, notice the timing of the har-
nesses. They should change in time to offer a free shed to
the shuttle.

Very often a broken end will become entangled with the
other warp ends and cause an obstruction to the passage of
the shuttle. When this is the case, it is easily noticed and
quickly remedied.

Bring the picker stick forwards and carefully notice the
position of the picker in relation to the point of the shuttle.
As explained previously, the hole in the picker should be
slightly above the point of the shuttle when the picker
is delivering.

The position of the reed should be carefully noted. As
already stated, it should be perfectly in line with the back of
the boxes; for if it should be set a little forwards of this
position, it would be sure to give the shuttle an outward ten-
dency. One or more dents protruding into the course of
the shuttle will have the same effect.

The position of the race plate in relation to the bottom of
the shuttle box should be noted. These should be on
exactly the same level. The race plate or lay will some-
times get out of true and must then be leveled. Notice
carefully the boxes at the point where the shuttle leaves.
Any obstruction here, however slight, is liable to result in
the shuttle being deflected.

The different parts of the loom are sure to wear out
in time; and when they are so far worn that they can
no longer be used without poor results, they should be
replaced by new ones. It is a mistake to try to run any-
thing that is worn out on a loom simply for the sake of
saving supplies.

§57

FIXING LOOMS

■ THIK PI.ACES IN THE CliOTH

^ 41, Thill pJutH'H may result when the loom is started
1 after replacing the filling, or they may occur while the loom
H is running. Those resulting in the first case are so easily
I remedied that no further mention is necessary here. Refer-
ence has already been made to the arrangement on the take-
t notion that aids in preventing this. The thin places
rring when the loom is running, how*ever, are an entirely
rent matter, and are not at all times easily overcome.
Sometimes a loom will run for many hours, then make a thin
place in the cloth* and then run for an hour or two longer
before repeating the defect* This is what may well be
called an aggravating case,

I When a friction let-off is being used, the cause for this
defect Is frequently found in the rope that is wound around
the beam head* This, at times, will get into such a condi-
tion that it will hold the beam tight while a certain amount
of cloth is being woven, and will then slip, letting off the
warp all at once. In such a case the rope should be thor-
oughly cleaned of £.!1 foreign substances and rubbed with
blacklead* If an automatic let*off is being used, the gears
should be carefully examined and all the setscrews tightened.
The gears of the take-up motion should also be examined.
I These are very apt to become clogged, and should be thor-
^oughly cleaned. If these different parts are carefully exam-

ined, the cause of this defect can generally be removed*

KNOCKING OFF FlIil^lNO
42. Knockliigr orr nill u^ is a defect* the cause of which
is quite as often found in the spinning as in the weaving*
Very frequently the yarn will be spun in such a manner that
the cops or bobbins will be so soft or have such a taper that
it seems impossible to throw them across the loom without
the filling coming off in lumps.

In many cases when the filling is being knocked off,
,the principal point of the loom to regulate is the pick.

26 FIXING LOOMS §57

Considerable has already been said in regard to the regfula-
tion of the pick, and this should be carefully considered in this
connection. If the shuttle is being sent across the loom at
a high speed and is then suddenly stopped, the filling that it
carries on the spindle will have a tendency to leave the
spindle; consequently, anything to lessen this blow will
also lessen the liability of the filling coming off. As light
a pick as will do the required work should be given to the
shuttle, and when the shuttle is entering the box it should
be checked in as gradual a manner as possible. So much
has already been said on this subject that no further
remarks are needed here. Frequently, when cop filling
is being used, it will be knocked off on account of the
spindle of the shuttle not being large enough to firmly
retain the cop. When this is the case, a small piece
of leather may be placed near the point and between
the sides of the spindle, thus enlarging the spindle
sufficiently to hold the cop.

KINKS IN THE PIIiLiING

43. Kinks In the filling is usually the result of too
much twist. When such is the case, the filling should be
thoroughly dampened, either by being steamed or having
water sprinkled on it.

Another point to be noted is the friction that is placed on
the filling. If the filling is allowed to run out of the shuttle
too freely, more than the required length for one pick is
very liable to be given off, and when beaten up by the reed
it will be sure to rise in ridges. In order to remedy this
defect, a small piece of flannel should be placed in the nose
of the shuttle in such a position that the filling, when run-
ning through the eye, will come in contact with the flannel,
thus causing more or less of a drag to be placed on the
filling as it is leaving the shuttle. When fine counts are
being used, however, care should be taken not to produce
so much friction that the filling will be broken as it is being
delivered by the shuttle.

§57

FIXING LOOMS

Another cause of kinky filling is the shuttle rebnundiD^
In the box sufficiently to cause slack filling, but not enough
to result in the loom bang^ing off*

CUTTING THE FIIjIilNG

44» In the great majority ui cases, filling is cut when
the shuttle is leaving the box in which the end of the shuttle
containing the eye is in contact with the picker. When the
shuttle is thrown from this box. that part of the filling that
extends from the eye to the selvage is doubled on its own
track. If, when in this condition » the filling is rubbed by
the shuttle against any projection or rough place on the side
of the box I it is almost sure to be cut. The box sides that
come in contact with the filling should be carefully exam-
ined, to ascertain if there are any projections or rough places
that will interfere with the filling.

The filling fork should also be carefully examined to learn
if it is passing through the grid freely* If it does not, but
comes in contact, it is apt to cut the filling. The pin that
holds the spindle in the shuttle may become loose and pro-
ject a short distance from the side of the shuttle- This is
quite liable to result in the filling being cut*

See that the shuttle spindle is not thrown up when the
shuttle is checked in the box. If H is, the spring in the heel
of the shuttle^ known as the spludlc sprliig^, should be
tightened.

Sometimes the heel of the temple may be set in such a
manner that the temple will come in contact with the reed.
When this happens, the filling is very liable to be caught
between the temple and the reed, which will surely result
in its being cut, ^^^_^

MTSPICKS

45» A defect frequently met with in the woven cloth,
and one that is due entirely to the carelessness of the
weaver, is what is known as inlt^ptcks* As previously
explained, when the loom i^ stopped by the filling breaking
or running out it will run for a pick or two before being

28 FIXING LOOMS §57

entirely stopped. Then when it is started again with firesh
filling, if the weaver is not particularly careful, the chances
are about even that the first pick of filling placed in the
cloth will lie in the same shed as the last pick, thus giving
two consecutive picks in the same shed. This defect is
more serious in fine than in coarse goods, yet it should be
guarded against at all times, and especially so in fancy or
colored goods.

DEFECTS CAUSED OUTSIDE OF WEAVE ROOM

46. Forelgrii Matter In the Cloth. — Imperfect cloth
is very frequently caused in the weave room through
defects that are entirely outside the province of any of
the help in this room, yet as these are defects that
will interest the loom fixer as much as any other one
person, it will not be out of place to make brief mention
of them here.

In examining a piece of cloth, especially if it is held to
the light, there will often be found foreign substances, such
as leaves, seeds, neps, etc., intermingled with the warp
and filling. This, of course, is no fault of the weaver, yet it
is something that must be avoided as much as possible,
since such cloth appears dirty and does not have that clear,
bright appearance that must be sought. These leaves,
seeds, and other foreign substances found in cloth are due
to the imperfect carding of the cotton; and, consequently,
the fault lies with the overseer of the card room, who
should always be capable of delivering the cotton to the
spinning room in a fairly clean condition, unless the stock
being run is of an exceptionally low grade, or the
machinery with which he is supplied is inadequate for the
results desired.

47. Uneven Yarn. — In many cases when examining a
piece of cloth, it will be noticed that the warp or the filling,
and sometimes both, arc made up of thick and thin places,
which give to the cloth a lumpy appearance. Yarn of this
character is imperfect and is due to poor spinning. The

FIXING LOOMS

overseer of the weave rootn when driven such yarn as this
twjth which to produce perfect cloth, should always bring it
|to the attention of those in authority.

48i Poorly Hized Yarn. — Mention has been made of

•the manner in which the warp yarn is chafed by the action
of the reed, thus causing the fibers of the yam to be raised*
It frequently happens that when the yam has been imper-
fectly sized, this chafing will cause bunches> known as but-
tons, to form on the warp back of the reed. When these
have grown to a considerable size and become firmly fast-

»ened to the yam* one of two things is sure to result: either
the yam will be broken by the reed pressing against the
buttons during the backward swing of the lay, or the buttons
passing between the dents and forming in front of the reed
will be pushed up to the fell of the cloth, where they will
form in bunches and deflect the filling from a straight line
when it is being beaten up by the reedi thus causing holes
to appear in the cloth. As already stated, defects of this
character are due to the imperfect siting of the warp yarn;
yet, when such a warp is received in the weave room, there is
much that can be done to lessen the difficulty. The harness
cams should be set late so that the filling, in being pushed up
to the cloth, will chafe the yam as little as possible; the warp
line should be in such a posidon that it will pass through
the center of the shed when the shed is open, in order that
an equal strain may be brought on the yam both in the top
and bottom sheds; the let-off motion should be regulated
in such a manner that the least possible strain will be
brought on the yam when unwinding from the beam*
Then, again, the weaver should be required to watch
such a vvarp^ and when bunches form in this manner they
should be clipped off. This, of course, means more time
Bmnd patience on the part of the weaver, but it pays to see
that it is attended to,

49* Tjni*|»c^ Knots In the Warp Yarn.^ — Another evil

that will cause holes in the w^oven cloth is Inrjare knots In

the i?irarp yarn* When the yam is being spooled in the
oi— ta

80 FIXING LOOMS §57

spooler room it frequently breaks or runs out, and the
spooler tender, in order to turn ofE as lars^e a production as
possible, or throufifh carelessness, will tie the ends in such a
manner that a large knot is formed. When this yam reaches
the process of weaving and the knot comes in contact with
the reed, it will act in exactly the same manner as the
bunches previously described. This defect is largely obvi-
ated by the spooler tenders using a mechanical knot tier.

THE IiOOM FIXEB

50. A good loom fixer is one of the most important
hands in the weave room; for on him, more than on any one
else, depends both the quantity and quality of the produc-
tion. It is necessary for a fixer, in order to make a success,
to be both a fair mechanic and a good weaver; for not only
must he understand how the diflEerent parts of a loom should
be set in order to run to the best advantage, but he should
also thoroughly understand the manner in which these differ-
ent parts are assembled.

It should be the object of every fixer to see that the
looms in his section attain the highest possible percentage
of production, and in order to accomplish this it is, of course,
necessary to have the looms stopped for repairs as little as
possible. The looms should always be kept well oiled, since
if the parts that are constantly working against each other
are allowed to become dry, difficulties are sure to arise.
This is the duty of the weaver, excepting in those mills
where a loom oiler is employed, but it should also be the
duty of the fixer to see that it is attended to. In a mill that
is constantly changing from one class of goods to another,
the fixer snould study the different cloths and learn just what
conditions are necessary for the best running of each.
Different-weight gfoods recjuire different settings of the parts
of the loom, the heavier weaves requiring in most cases
more power on the picking arrangement; this, in turn, neces-
sitates the binders on the shuttle boxes being adjusted to
meet the new conditions. The harness straps may need

§57 FIXING LOOMS 31

readjustment, and the let-ofiE motion should be looked over
to see that it is working properly.

Whenever a new difficulty is met with, the fixer, instead of
altering different parts with the expectation of fixing the
loom by chance, should study out the causes that would
result in this particular defect, and then carefully study the
different parts of the loom which would cause these condi-
tions. If new difficulties are not thoroughly mastered at the
time they are met with, the fixer learns nothing, and when
the same difficulty comes up a second time there will be the
same trouble in fixing the loom.

A good loom fixer will constantly be on the lookout for
worn-out parts on the looms of his section, and be ready to
replace these when necessary. By this means broken parts
will be done away with and the fixer will not be so much
sought after by the weaver. This will be found to be the
cheaper method in the end, since a new picker stick or a new
lug strap is not very expensive, but broken shuttles, smashes,
and lessened production are important causes of lessening
profits.

LOOM ATTACHMENTS

UNDERCAMS FOR OTHER THAN TWO-
HARNESS WORK

INTRODUCTION

1. Cams In General. — As shedding by cams is the most
perfect form of shedding ever devised, it will be found that
cams are employed in every case where the expense attached
to them does not prohibit their use, or where their number
does not render them impracticable on account of the great
amount of space occupied. In the United States, cams are
generally employed on three-, four-, five-, or six-harness
work; in England, even a larger number of harnesses are
frequently operated in this manner. The classes of fabrics
principally woven in cam-looms are plains, twills, and sateens,

2. In considering the possibilities of cams, there are
always certain limitations to be dealt with. If a cam is con-
structed for two-harness work, it is impossible to use it in
weaving any cloth that requires a larger number of har-
nesses; consequently, when a cam-loom is changed from
one kind of weave to another, it is always necessary to change
the cams to suit the requirements. This necessitates the loss
of time, especially in a mill that is constantly changing from
one class of work to another. In many cases special cams
must be constructed for special work, thus adding greatly
to the expense of operation. Moreover, as undercams act
directly on the treadles only, when depressing the harnesses,
some arrangement must be adopted by means of which they

For notice of copyright, see Page immediately following the title page
209

2 LOOM ATTACHMENTS §58

may indirectly raise the harnesses. This is accomplished
by the use of a strap-and-roller connection placed at the top
of the loom. This arrangfement, however, places certain
limitations on the movement of the harnesses. It will be
remembered that the action of the cam in pressing down one
harness serves to raise another harness by means of the
straps and rollers just referred to. Consequently, one har-
ness cannot be raised unless another is lowered; the oppo-
site is equally true — that is, it is impossible to lower a
harness without raising another one. This will be found to
be true in every case where cams are used in combina-
tion with strap-and-roller connections, the number of cams
employed not changing the conditions.

3. Suppose, for example, that a cam-loom is on three-
harness work, two harnesses being up on each pick and one
down, producing what is known as a -S^ weave (read two up,
one down) ; then the ratio of harnesses raised to those lowered
must always be the same, that is, on every pick that is placed
in the cloth there must be two harnesses up and one
down. The same would be true if more harnesses were
used. Take for example a cam-loom operating four har-
nesses, the cams being so constructed that two harnesses
will be up and two down, producing a -"i. weave; then on
every pick of the weave there must be the same ratio of
harnesses raised to those lowered.

The order in which the cams change the harnesses, how-
ever, may be altered. Suppose that a cam-loom is running
on four-harness work, the cams being so constructed that
three harnesses will be up on each pick and one down.
These cams may be placed on the shaft of the loom in such
a manner that the first harness will be lowered on the first
pick, the second harness on the second pick, the third har-
ness on the third i)ick, and the fourth harness on the fourth
pick. This produces a regular fojn-Iuuucss twill. Again,
the cams may be so placed on the shaft that the first harness
will be lowered on the first pick, the second harness on the
second pick, the fourth harness on the third pick, and the

§58 LOOM ATTACHMENTS 3

third harness on the fourth pick; this will produce what is
termed a broken craw weave. Cams for more than three
harnesses are usually made separate in order that they may
permit this interchanging of their order of operation.

After one harness has been lowered or raised, it cannot
again be lowered or raised until all the other harnesses
employed in the weave have been moved in the same
xnanner. Thus, in the case of the weave just referred to,
^where one harness is down and three up, if the first harness
is lowered on the first pick, all the other harnesses must be
lowered before that harness can again be dropped.

4. The order in which the harnesses are changed, where
only one harness is raised or lowered on each pick, is
generally shown by means of numbers, which designate the
number of the harness ^nd also on which pick each harness
is to be moved. Thus, in the case of the four-harness twill
just referred to, where one harness is down and three up
on each pick, the harnesses could be said to be lowered in
1-2-3-4 order; that is, the first harness is lowered on the
first pick, the second harness on the second pick, the third
harness on the third pick, and the fourth harness on the
fourth pick, the figures representing which harness is moved,
while the order in which the figures stand show on which
pick each harness is moved.

The different orders of moving four harnesses when
operated by cams constructed so as to give one harness
down and three up on each pick are as follows:

1. 1-2-3-4 4. 1-8-4-2

2. 1-2-4-3 6. 1-4-2-3

3. 1-3-2-4 6. 1-4-3-2

CON8TRI CTION OF DIFFERENT CAMS

5. In constructing cams for different kinds of work there
are certain points that should always be borne in mind in
order to fully comprehend the different steps necessary.
The outer circle of construction, hii. Fig. 1, should first be
divided into a certain number of equal parts that will be the

4 LOOM ATTACHMENTS §58

same as the number of picks to the round; that is, the number
of picks that are inserted in the cloth while the cam is making
one complete revolution. The term number of picks to the
round also generally indicates the number of harnesses that
are employed in the weave. Thus, in speaking of a three-
harness twill, a twill would be understood that would be
woven on three harnesses employing three cams and, con-
sequently, three picks would be inserted while one cam was
making a complete revolution. It is not necessary, however,
that the number of picks to the round should limit the
number of harnesses on which the weave could be woven.
However, it will generally be found to be the case on cam-
looms that the number of harnesses employed in the weave
will indicate the number of picks to the round, and vice versa.
Each one of these equal parts into which the cam is
divided will represent one pick of the weave, but since one
harness is being lowered while another is being raised, one-
half the change part of one cam will always overlap one-hali
of the change part of another earn. The length of dwell of
the cam should always be decided on first and marked off
on the outer circumference of construction. A dwell equal to
the time that it takes the loom to make one-half a pick, or, as
it is known, one-half a pick dwell, will be allowed in all cams
illustrated here.

FOUR-HARNESS CAMS

6. Cams for *, Twill. — Fig. 1 shows the construction
of a cam that would be suitable for a four-harness twill
weave, three harnesses being up and one down on each pick.
Two repeats of the weave, in both ends and picks, produced
by cams of this construction arc also shown in this illus-
tration. In the complete set of cams for this weave, there
would be four cams similar to the one shown in Fig. 1.
Each cam, however, is constructed in exactly the same
manner, w^ith the exception of a slightly greater throw being
given to each succeeding cam moving toward the back of
the loom, the object of this being to produce an even shed
in front of the reed.

§58

LOOM ATTACHMENTS

In constructing cams for any class of weaves, there are
certain instructions that will be found common to all. The
inner circle representing the cam-shaft should always be
drawn first. This circle is shown at b. Fig. 1. To the
radius used in drawing the circle of the cam-shaft, add the
thickness of the hub of the cam; and with this new radius

Fig. 1

describe another circle having the same center as the circle
previously drawn. This second circle represents the inner
throw of the cam and is shown at r. Fig. 1. To the radius
last used, add the entire throw of the cam; and with the
same center describe a third circle, which will represent the
outer throw of the cam. This circle is shown at d, Fig. 1.
After describing these different circles, divide the outer

6 LOOM ATTACHMENTS §58

circle into the same number of equal parts as there are picks
to the round.

As previously stated, these instructions apply to the con-
struction of any cam. The number of cams employed, the
time the harnesses are to remain up or down, or, in short,
any circumstances whatever do not interfere in the slig^htest
with this method of construction.

7. As the cam shown in Fig. 1 is for four-harness work,
the circle d must be divided into four equal parts, as shown
by the arcs fe, ex, xxi, and Xi /. The cam will move the
distance of one arc during one pick and will therefore make
one complete revolution in the time that it takes to place
four picks in the cloth. The time occupied by the dwell of
the cam is to be equal to one-half of the time occupied by
one pick, and since the cam moves through one of the four
equal arcs during one pick, half of the space occupied by any
one of these arcs may be taken to represent that part of the
cam during which the harness is stationary. Therefore,
divide the arc e/ into four equal parts e/i, hh^, h^k, and kf,
and select the two central ones hh^ and ^,^ as the dwell,
equal to one-half of e /.

Since the dwell of the cam is to occupy one-half of a pick,
one-half the pick, eh ■\' kf, will remain in which to construct
change parts of the cam. Further, since one-half of each
period of change is to be taken from each of the adjoining
picks, lay off arcs /^ and ej on arcs /x, and ex, respectively,
each of the former arcs being equal to kf ox eh. The first
change will now take place during the arc^Xr, the dwell dur-
ing the arc h k, while the arc /// marks the change during
which the harness will return to its initial position.

8. It should be noted that the arc /^ occupies, one-quarter
of the arc .r^ /, which represents the distance through which
the cam moves during one pick. The same is equally true
of the arc^v with reference to the arc ex. This is in accord-
ance with what has previously been stated in regard to
one-half of the change part of one cam overlapping one-half
of the change part of another cam. This may be more readily

§58 LOOM ATTACHMENTS 7

understood if it is remembered that as one harness is being
depressed by one cam another harness is being raised, the
two harnesses becoming level at a point that marks half the
distance of their rise and fall.

It may further be stated that if the time occupied in chan-
^ng is one-half of a pick, as in Fig. 1, then the harnesses pass
at a point reached after the loom has moved one-quarter of a
pick; but if the time occupied in changing is one-third of a
pick, the harnesses will pass each other at a point reached after
the loom has moved one-sixth of a pick. Therefore, a cam
constructed after the manner of the one shown in Fig. 1 must
move through the distance represented on the outer circle
by the arc hj when allowing the harness to rise, while in
depressing the harness it must move through the distance
represented on the outer circle by the arc kg. Therefore,
the arc hk, which represents half a pick, is taken for the
dwell of the cam, while the arcs ///, kg, each of which rep-
resents half a pick, are utilized for the construction of the
change parts of the cam.

9, Next divide the arcs jh, kg into any number of equal
I>arts; eight are used here, but it will readily be seen that
t:he more parts into which these spaces are divided, the more
accurately will the lines of the cam be derived from them.
iDraw lines from these points of division to the center of the
liircle. Proceed in the same manner as was adopted in
laying out the lines of the cam for two-harness work; that
is, divide the lines jl and nig into the same number of
"Unequal parts, commencing at the circle c with a small space
and gradually increasing this until the center of the line is
reached, when it is reduced again proportionately. With
the center a and radii ecjual to the distances from the center
to the points of division, draw arcs cutting the lines pre-
viously drawn. The points formed by the intersection of
these arcs and radial lines are then connected by the sym-
metrical curves // / and km. This will give the necessary
lines, and as a result the cam h 1 1 m k will be obtained.
It will be noticed that at the points r and r^, which mark half

8 LOOM ATTACHMENTS §58

the drop and lift of the cam, the harness operated by this
cam will be level with the harness that is passing it; con-
sequently, the central part of the lift of one tarn is passing
the central part of the drop of another cam.

10, Cams for ^ Twill. — In the case of the*cam pre-
viously illustrated, each harness must be held down during
the time that it takes the loom to make but a single pick.
In a large number of weaves, however, the harnesses must
be kept down for a longer time than this. An illustration of
a cam of this type is found in one constructed for a four-
harness twill having two harnesses up and two down on each
pick. A cam suitable for this weave will cause the harness
that it operates to be depressed during two picks of the
loom and will also allow the harness to be raised during two
picks. However, in a weave of this character there will be
two harnesses changing on each pick, one being lowered and
another raised.

Fig. 2 represents the construction of a cam suitable for
such a weave. The circles d, r, and d are drawn in a manner
similar to the construction of all cams. The outer circle is
then divided into four equal parts, since there must be four
cams to operate the harnesses for this weave. These parts
are represented by the arcs xx\, x\x,y x^.w, and x^x.

As previously stated, this cam holds the harness down
while two picks are being made by the loom, but it should
be noted that during half a pick the cam must be changing
the harness; therefore, that part of the outer circle d that is
to form the line of the cam must represent one and one-half
picks. Any part of the circle d that represents one and one-
half picks may be taken as this part of the cam. In Fig. 2,
it is represented by the arc /i d k. This arc is obtained by
adding to each side of the arc xdx^ a space equal to one-
quarter of a pick. vSince the arc x d X:^ is equal to one pick,
and the arcs .v k and x^ h are each equal to one-quarter of a
pick, the arc hdk must be equal to one and one-half picks.

From the points k and //, measure off on the outer circum-
ference arcs that will represent the space moved through by

§58

LOOM ATTACHMENTS

the cam during one-half of a pick, after the manner explained
in Art. 7. This will give the arcs >&^, kj\ in which the
change parts of the cam are to be drawn. Divide these arcs
into equal parts by lines drawn from the center to the cir-
cumference of the outer circle; then by drawing arcs of
different circles divide these lines into unequal spaces.

Connect the points of intersection by means of curves // /
and kntj which will give the lines of the cam desired.

!!• By following the action of this cam through the four
picks a clearer idea of its operation may be obtained. It
should constantly be borne in mind that the cam makes a
complete revolution only once during every four picks.

10 LOOM ATTACHMENTS

Considering that the cam is revolving in the direction of the
arrow, as shown in the illustration, when the part at m is in
contact with the treadle, the cam is just commencing to
depress the harness. The lay at this point is coming for-
wards in its action of beating up the filling, its exact posi-
tion depending entirely * on the setting of the shedding
motion. At the point r the two harnesses that are changing
are level; at the point k they are entirely changed and a
pick of filling is inserted in the cloth while the lay is com-
pleting its stroke, or while the cam is moving from k to «.
At this point the lay is again just starting on its forward
stroke and the loom has completed one pick of the weave,
the arc g n being one-quarter of the entire circle and repre-
senting the space through which the cam moves during one
pick. Another harness is now commencing to be lowered,
while still another one is being raised. This, however, is
not shown, as only one cam is illustrated and the action of
that one only will be followed.

From 71 to /, the lay is again moving forwards, and from
^ to ^ it is on its backward stroke; therefore, when the cam
has revolved until the point // is in contact with the treadle,
the crank-shaft has completed two revolutions, and conse-
quently two picks have been placed in the cloth.

While the cam is revolving from h to /, the lay is moving
forwards for the third time, and before another pick of filling
is placed in the cloth the harness is raised. By following
the action of the cam while the harness is being raised, or
while that part of the cam from // to / is in contact with the
treadle, it will be seen that it is similar to that part of the
cam from m to k. Owing, however, to the direction in
which the cam is revolving, it will be depressing the harness
durinj^ the time thnt /;/ k is in contact with the treadle, while
it will allow the harness to be raised during the time that hi
is in contact with the treadle. The time occupied by the
harness in liftinj^ is half a pick, since the arc ///represents
the space the cam i)asscs throiiji:h in this lenjjth of time.

The distance from / to /;/, measured on the circumference
of the outer circle, gives the arc j d^g, which is equal to the

§58 LOOM ATTACHMENTS 11

arc hdk\ therefore, since the part Im forms the arc of a
true circle, its action on the treadles will be similar to that
part of the cam formed by the arc hdk^ with the exception
XhaX in one case the harness will be down while in the other
it will be up. Thus, during one complete revolution of the
oam, the loom will make four picks, the harness causing
"the warp ends drawn through it to be raised over two picks
of filling and to be under two picks.

FIVE-HARNESS SATIN CAMS

12. rive-liarness satin weaves are either warp or
filling satins. In the former case, the warp is made to
predominate on the face of the cloth, while in the latter the
filling will be found to be more prominent. In a five-harness
warp satin, the cams are generally constructed in such a
manner that four harnesses will be up and one down on each
pick, although a warp satin is sometimes woven face down
in the loom, in which case there is one harness up and four
down on each pick. Cams for five-harness filling satins are
so constructed that they will give one harness up and four
down on each pick. Fig. 3 shows the construction of a cam
suitable for such a weave.

To draw such a cam proceed to draw the circles repre-
senting the shaft, hub, and outer throw of the cam. Next
divide the outer circle into five equal parts, since five cams
are necessary for the weave. The arc fe represents one of
these parts. Since the cam is to give the harness a dwell
of one-half a pick, one-half of the arc fe should be marked
off for the dwell of the cam. This gives the arc jg,
but since the harness is to be up during this dwell, the
distance jg should be measured on the circle representing
the hub of the cam, which gives the arc I m as that part
of the cam that ^ives the dwell to the harness during the
pick that it is up.

From the points y,^ on the outer circumference, measure
distances e(iual to one-half a pick. This gives the arcs^Xr,
jh, in which to form the change parts of the cam. These

LOOM ATTACHMENTS

§58

arcs are divided in the same manner as previously described,
and the change parts of the cam mrk and Ir^h drawn.

By means of these illustrations the construction of any
cam for weaving should be readily understood. It should
always be borne in mind, however, that the outer circumfer-
ence, or throw, of the cam is first divided into as many equal

Fu;. 3

parts as there are picks to the round in the weave. It should
be remembered that one-half the change part of one cam will
always overlap one-half of the change part of another cam,
and that each cam makes a complete revolution while the
crank-shaft is making as many revolutions as there are
picks to the round.

§58

LOOM ATTACHMENTS

ATTACHMENTS FOR THREE-, FOUR-,

FIVE-, AND SIX-HARNESS

UNDERCAM LOOMS

AUXILiIARY SHAFTS

13. As previously stated, a cam makes one complete
revolution during the time that it takes the loom to make as
many picks as there are cams employed. Thus, in the case
of a two-harness cam, each cam makes oqe revolution while
two picks of filling are being placed in the cloth, and since
the cam-shaft of the loom makes one revolution while the
loom is making two picks, these cams can be fastened to
the cam-shaft and they will have the desired speed. When,
however, cams are em-
ployed on three-, four-,
five-, or six-harness work
and it is necessary for
each cam to make only
one revolution during the
time that the loom is ma-
king three, four, five, or
six picks, it is not possi-
ble to operate these cams

on the cam-shaft of the loom, which makes one complete
revolution during every two picks; therefore, some other
arrangement must be employed in order to obtain the right
proportion between the revolutions of the cams and the
crank-shaft, one revolution of the crank-shaft being equal to
one pick of the loom.

When it is desired to operate more than two cams, the
cams are setscrewed to a shaft known as the auxiliary
stiaft, which is driven from the cam-shaft by a train of

91—19

\ '

1 ^

rs g g

Fio. 4

LOOM ATTACHMENTS

gears suitable to give the desired speed to the cams.
Figs. 4 and 5 illustrate such an arrangement, Fig. 4 being a
rear and Fig. 5 a side view of the same motion. The cam-
shaft / of the loom carries a gear g that drives another gear /
fastened on a shaft h, which is known as the auxiliary shaft.
This shaft rests in bearings which are supported by

Fzo. 5

cross-girts extending from the front to the back girt of the
loom. In some cases these bearings are simply supported
by rests fastened to the back girt of the loom. In Figs. 4
and 5 the cams are marked 5 and the treadles p.

GEARING

14. It is important to consider the gears that drive this
auxiliary shaft, in order that the speed of this shaft in rela-
tion to the speed of the cam-shaft may be correct. In this
connection only the two shafts /, h are dealt with.

As already explained, the cam-shaft makes one revolution
while the loom is running two picks. On the other hand, it
is necessary to so drive the auxiliary shaft that it will make
one revolution while the loom is running five picks, since it
is five-harness work. If convenient, the simplest method of
doing this is to have one large-toothed gear on the auxiliary
shaft and a smaller gear on the cam-shaft. This is the
method adopted in the illustration. In such a case, the
calculation for the number of revolutions is simply the pro-
portion of the two gears to each other. The teeth acting

§58

LOOM ATTACHMENTS

alternately on each other, their relative speeds will be as the
number of teeth of one are to the number of teeth of the
other. For instance, if it is required to have five picks
placed in the cloth while the cam is revolving once, as in
this case, then the proportion of the teeth in the ^ear on the
cam-shaft to the teeth of the gear on the auxiliary shaft is as
2 to 5, since the cam-shaft makes only one revolution to
every two picks.

To illustrate this, a 60-tooth gear Is found on the auxiliary
shaft and it is desired to know what gear shall be placed on
the cam-shaft in order to gfive one round of the cam to
five picks of the looni* This will resolve itself into the fol-
lowing: equation, letting x represent the number of teeth in
the gear on the cam-shaft:

^ ; 60 = ? : 5

Multipljnng the extremes and means tog^ether gives 5x =
120. Since bx ^ 120, x will be one-fifth of 120, or 24, which
will be the required number of teeth in the gear on the cam-
shaft* That is, if a 24-tooth ^ear on the cam-shaft of the
loom is driving a 60-tooth gear on the auxiliary shaft, then
the loom will run five picks while the auxiliary shaft makes
one revolution. By following this method the gears may be
obtained for three-, four-, five-, or six-haniess work.

fl5. Another rule for finding the required size of gears
on cam-shafts when driving EUxiUary shafts may be stated
as follows;
• Rule. — Afuliipiy the number of keih in tke gear on iht atiX-
iiiary shafi by two and divide by ike number oi picks to the
round.

ExAMPLS.^ — What must be the gear of the cam-shaft on five-hantess
work, if tbe auxiliary siiaft has a e(*- tooth gear?
S01.DTION* — Applying the rule just stated,
fiO X 3 - 120
120 ^ 3 ^ 24
The cam-shaft should have a 24-tooth gear, Ans»
Very frequently it may be found inconvenient to have only
two gears. The two shafts are placed at a fixed distance

16 LOOM ATTACHMENTS

apart, and the gears must therefore be of such a diameter as
to suit this fixed distance; consequently, it will frequently
happen that in changing from one number of cams to
another, not only the diameter, but the pitch of the teeth,
will have to be altered. It is desirable to avoid this as far
as possible, and indeed to avoid the necessity of making the
gears of such diameter as to suit the distance between the
shafts. This is done by introducing an intermediate gear,
which becomes simply a medium for communicating the
power without in any way altering the relative speed of
the two shafts; therefore, the same pitch of teeth may be
preserved throughout, and in figuring to obtain the gears
the only thing to observe is the relation of the gear on
the cam-shaft to that on the auxiliary shaft, leaving the
intermediate out of the calculations entirely. In fact, the
method is the same as in the first case, where no interme-
diate was used.

By using a 60-tooth gear on the auxiliary shaft and adopt-
ing the intermediate-gear arrangement it is only necessary to
change the gear on the cam-shaft when changing from one
weave to another, using a 40-tooth gear for three-harness
work; a 30 for four-harness work, a 24 for five-harness work,
and a 20 for six-harness work. These gears may be kept
on the cam-shaft and simply moved into position as desired.

One point, however, to be noted in connection with inter-
mediate gears, is that when such a gear is introduced the
direction of motion of the driven gear is opposite to what it
is when driven direct from the driving gear. In some cases
cams are so constructed that the motion given to the har-
nesses when being depressed differs slightly from their
motion when being raised. When this is the case care
should be taken to have the gears so arranged that the
shaft carrying the cams will revolve in the right direction.
When, however, the motion given to the harnesses in both
rising and falling is exactly the same, the direction of
motion of the cams does not matter, as the point of contact
of the treadle with the cam is directly under the center
of the cam.

§58 LOOM ATTACHMENTS 17

HARNESS ROLiIiS

16. It is necessary that some arrangement supplement-
ing the action of the cam be made by which one harness
will be raised as another is depressed. The best means of
accomplishing this is by means of levers in one form or
another, since by their use the non-positive action of the cams,
as it is called, is converted into a positive action. In other
words, the cam that can act only in one direction by itself
is made to act in both directions through the medium of
these levers.

Suppose that only two harnesses are being used: if the
harnesses are lowered by the action of the cam, then they
may be connected at the top by means of any simple lever
or roller, which acts as a lever, so that as one harness is
lowered the other, through the medium of this lever or roller,
is raised. In this case, the only thing to be considered is
that the lever or roller shall be so arranged that the har-
nesses are not held too far apart, and that the different
rollers are of the proper diameters.

ARRANGEMENTS

17. There is not much difficulty in arranging these
rollers for any even number of harnesses, the consideration
being principally that they shall not spread the harnesses
too much. In such an arrangement it is, of course, always
necessary that as one harness is depressed another must
rise, and there must always be the same number lowered.
It does not follow, however, that there must always be just
half the harnesses lowered and raised; in fact, there may be
any number that is not more than one-half the number
of harnesses, but whatever that number is, it must always
remain the same.

Whenever the number of harnesses is uneven, a more
difficult arran^»^ement must be adopted. It is not different
in principle from that employed on an even number of
harnesses, hut it is different and more difficult to understand
when taking into account the question of leverage.

LOOM ATTACHMENTS

Fig. 6 is an illustration of the harness-roll arrangement on
five-harness work; the working of these rollers for each pick
of the weave is shown. The weave used is the five-harness
satin, with the following order for lifting the harnesses:
1-^-5-2-4.

There are four rollers a,b,c,d which may, in fact, be
called double, since each has two diameters. The roller a

%€ d

5 4S'J 1
VJPick

^C d^

432 1
Z^J'Pick

mc d

is fastened to a shaft supported by the arch of the loom.
Connected to each of its two faces are straps supporting
shafts, on which are fastened the rollers d, d. These straps
simply support the shafts by means of loops and are not
fastened in any way, thus permittinjx the shafts to turn freely
as they arc acted on by the rollers. The roller d sup-
ports two harness straps, while the roller b has fastened to
its larger diameter a harness strap, its smaller diameter

§58 LOOM ATTACHMENTS 19

containing a strap that supports another roller c, this last
roller in its turn supporting two harness straps.

It will be seen that all the harnesses may be said to be
supported from one roller, which in this case is a. It will
also be seen that one side of this roller supports three
harnesses, while the other supports only two; also, that
the roller b^ which is supported by a, in its turn supports
two harnesses on one side, while it supports but one on
the other.

18. By following the action of the cams on these har-

Taesses and rollers, the principles of the arrangement will be

understood. On the first pick, the cam allows the first har-

»^ess to rise; on the second pick, the first harness is lowered

xwhile the third harness is raised in the following manner:

-As the cam acts on the first harness to depress it, the natural

tendency of the harness strap attached to this harness is to

tiurn the roller c, but it is prevented from doing this by the

Viamess strap connected to the second harness, this harness

"being held down by the cam that operates it. Consequently,

the motion is communicated to the roller b by the strap

connections; the tendency then is to turn this roller.

Since the cam that operates the third harness has revolved
until it is in a position to allow the harnfess to be raised,
it is readily seen that the roller b will be turned and the
harness lifted.

19. By following the action of the next movement, a
slightly different method of leverage will be observed. As
the cam depresses the third harness on the third pick, its
tendency will be to turn the roller b to which it is fastened,
but it is prevented from doing so by the fact that the roller c
is held in position by the cams that operate the first and
second harnesses. Therefore, the motion is communicated
to the roller a by the strap connections, and consequently
this roller will be turned. This will tend to lift the roller d,
but since the cam that operates the fourth harness will not
allow that harness to be raised, the roller d in addition to
being lifted will also turn, this being possible through the

20 LOOM ATTACHMENTS §58

fact that it is simply supported by a loop in the strap. This
action of the roller d will wind up the strap connected to the
fifth harness, and since the cam operating this harness has
revolved until it is in a position to allow the harness to rise,
the fifth harness will be lifted on this pick.

From these descriptions, it will be seen that the motion
of one harness being depressed will be communicated by
means of the strap and roller connections to whichever
harness the cams allow to rise. It is also evident that
rollers can be easily arranged to suit any number of har-
nesses, but it should be kept in mind, as already pointed
out, that they will only serve for patterns where the same
number of harnesses is raised for each pick.

To set the cams on work that contains more than two har-
nesses, turn the crank-shaft until it is on its bottom center;
then turn the cams on the auxiliary shaft until the har-
nesses that are changing are level. Tighten the setscrews
on the cams when they are in this position.

8ELVAGK MOTIONS

Pl^AIX SELVAGK MOTION

20. When cloth is being woven in which the ends change
only once in three or more picks some arrangement, in addi-
tion to the harnesses, must be used in order to produce a
selvage, since it is necessary for the ends that form the sel-
vage to change every time the filling is thrown across in
order to catch and hold the filling. When the ends interlace
fre(iuently with the filling, the i)laiii solvate motion may
be used. This motion is shown in Fig. 7.

Ordinary plain cams ^, <?, that operate the treadles />, />»
are placed on one end of the cam-shaft /. (Connected to the
treadles are straps fastened to a roller c, which is fastened to
a shaft d. This shaft extends the entire length of the loom
and on each end has a roller c which operates the harnesses
/, /,. These harnesses pass over a roller .ir which is held in
position by a support fastened to the arch of the loom. The

§58

LOOM ATTACHMENTS

selvasfe ends are drawn throu£fh these harnesses, and smce
the harnesses are operated by cams on the cam-shaft they
will change at every pick, and thus produce a plain selvage.
The cams operating this motion are set the same as cams
for plain work.

Pig. 7

Instead of having this selvage motion operated by cams
and treadles, as shown in Fig. 7, the shaft d is frequently
given the desired motion by means of an eccentric on the
end of the cam-shaft, the eccentric imparting motion to the
shaft d by means of a connecting-rod.

TAPE 8EL.VAGE MOTION

21. When cloth is being woven in which the filling does
not interlace with each end more than once in five picks, as
is the case with a five-harness satin, some other arrange-
ment must be used, since if the warp ends are interlacing
with the filling only once in five picks and the selvage ends

Fio. 8

are interlacing at every pick, owing to the contraction being
so much greater on the selvage ends by reason of their
more frequent interlacings with the filling, the selvage ends
will become so much tighter than the warp ends for the
body of the cloth that it will be impossible to weave them.
To overcome this difficulty a tai)e selvage motion is used.
This motion is shown in Fig. S.
With this motion two picks of filling are placed in one

§58 LOOM ATTACHMENTS 23

shed of the selvage; consequently the selvage ends inter-
lace only once every two picks, yet the selvage will change
each time the shuttle is on the side with that selvage; that
is, the two selvages change independently of each other,
the selvage on one end changing one pick and the selvage
on the other end changing the next.

In order to accomplish this, two sets of cams must be
employed. Referring to Fig. 8, on the cam-shaft / is a
gear a driving another gear b on the shaft c, which extends
from one end of the loom to the other. At each end of
this shaft is placed a set of cams d, d^ which operate the
treadles hy ^i, ^„ and ^,. Connected to the ends of the dif-
ferent treadles are small rods k, ^„ ^„ and ^,.

Connected to these rods are the harnesses /, A, /„ and /„
through which are drawn the selvage ends. These har-
nesses are connected at the top to rollers g,gt. which rest in
supports fastened to the arch of the loom.

The gear b contains twice the number of teeth that are
contained in the gear a] consequently the shaft c will make
one revolution while the cam-shaft /, which contains the
gear a, is making two revolutions. Thus, the shaft c will
make one revolution every four picks.

By setting the cams on each end of this shaft so that one
will operate one pick and the other the next pick, and by
having the shuttle picking from the side on which the
selvage is changing, it is possible to place two picks of
filling in each shed of the selvage and yet tie the ends at
each pick.

22. Operation. — By considering the action of the cams,
this motion may appear somewhat plainer. Suppose the
shuttle to be picking from the right-hand side of the loom:
Then the cams at d have just operated and the selvage
has changed to receive and catch the pick of filling; the
shuttle is driven across the loom and the shaft c makes one-
quarter of a revolution. As the lay comes forwards for the
next pick, the cams on the other side of the loom, or at d^,
will change the harnesses; but the cams at d will be on the

24 LOOM ATTACHMENTS §68

dwell and therefore will not changfe the selvage harnesses
on their side.

The shuttle is next picked from the left-hand side of the
loom, and during this pick the shaft c makes another quarter
revolution. The cams at d will now change the selvage,
while the cams at dx will keep the selvage on the left-hand
side stationary. The loom will pick from the right-hand
side and the shaft c will make another quarter revolution.
The shuttle will again be thrown from the left-hand side
after the left-hand selvage has changed, and when it reaches
the right-hand box the shaft c will have made one complete
revolution and the harnesses will be in their original posi-
tion. Thus each selvage end will make only one interlacing
with the filling every two picks, yet the filling will be caught
by the selvage at every pick.

23. Setting the Cams. — To set the selvage cams on
such a motion proceed as follows: With the crank-shaft on
the bottom center, set the cams that are on the same side
as the shuttle in such a position that the selvage harnesses
on that side will be level at that point. Turn the crank-
shaft one complete revolution; with the shuttle in the
opposite box and the crank-shaft on the bottom center, set
the two remaining cams so that the selvage harnesses
operated by these cams will be level or just passing each
other at this point.

SnKDDlNG MKCIIANISM OF A LOOM

24. Fig. 0 shows the complete shcddlnpr mochanisni
of a loom suitable for five-harness satin work, the under
motion being illustrated. The different parts, together with
*their letters of reference, are as follows: .r„ arch of loom;
a,b,c,d, top rolls to which harness straps are attached;
<7h, top harness straps; </, harnesses; k\ harness jacks, which
serve as a connection between the bottom straps and har-
nesses; (],, bottom straps; r, front bottom girt; rj, back
bottom ^nrt; x, ,r,, cross-g^irts, which serve to support the
auxiliary shaft; .v,, support for the selvage cam-shaft; A,

1*158 LOOM ATTACHMENTS 25 H

auxiliary cam-shaft; C, cam-shaft; e, shaft for selvage motion; ^|

H«, five-harness satio cams; d^, selvage cams; g, gear on cam- ^|

^^B ^^^

ll^^'?^** ^^1

^H ^3

^ ^n^Sifffi

r ■

'M :

1 1

^^H

1 mL c

^^B 1 IM

^^^|L ■

^B jp^

7 ■

» ..<^^^^

^11'

—M^

*^/<0^/ t^>^Nie£^

jr===^iJ ■

^HiC_

_ 777 1

Iff^ ^==::^./ -■

J^^-u^ \i

itv--^^/ ■

^" *> w ^^^H

shaft; f, gfear on auxiliary shaft driven by ^ ^», gear on fl

selvage cam-shaft; ;^» treadles for the harness motion; ^„ //,, ^^H

treadles for the selvas^e motion; /,, selva^^e bamesses. ^^H

26 LOOM ATTACHMENTS §68

SIDE CAMS

25. Some looms on four-, five-, or six-harness work have
their cams placed at the side instead of under the loom, the
claim of the builders being that the cams are much easier to
take off and put on when it is desired to change from one
class of work to another.

Fig. 10 {a) and (d) are illustrations of a five-harness side-
cam motion, (a) being a front and id) a side view; h repre-
sents the crank-shaft of the loom, on one end of which is
placed the bevel gear ^,, which drives a larger gear k fast-
ened to a shaft supported by arms extending from the side of
the loom. On the shaft with the gear A are placed five cams.
The arms Ci are supported by a shaft passing through them
at their central points, this shaft being held in bearings that
rest in a support that is fastened to the side of the loom.
These arms act as levets and are free to turn on the shaft
that supports them. Fastened to the upper end of these
levers are the straps d, which, passing over the rollers ^, are
attached to the top of the harnesses. Fastened to the lower
end of the levers are other straps d which, passing around
the bottom rollers, are connected to the bottom of the har-
nesses. Connected to each of the levers d is an arm c, to
the outer end of which is fastened a roller that works in one
of the cams on the shaft driven by the gear /i^. One cam is
shown at 5.

It is important to notice that since the cam-shaft contains
five cams, it is necessary that it should make one revolution
to every five picks; but it will also be noticed that in this
case the cam-shaft is driven by a gear on the crank-shaft,
which makes one revolution at each pick; consequently the
relation of the number of teeth in the gear on the cam-shaft
to the number of teeth in the gear on the crank-shaft must be
as 5 to 1 . In other words, the gear on the cam-shaft must con-
tain five times as many teeth as the gear on the crank-shaft

28 LOOM ATTACHMENTS

26. By considering the action of one cam, an under-
standing of the action of the whole may be obtained. As
the cam revolves, the roller that works in it is raised; but
since the roller is fastened to the outer end of the arm c^
this action will cause the upper end of the lever Cx to be
thrown in toward the loom, while the lower end will be
thrown out. By following the strap connections, it will
readily be seen that this action will serve to lower the har-
ness operated by this lever. As the cam continues to
revolve, the arm c will be brought back to its original posi-
tion and will thus raise the harness again.

Each cam is setscrewed to the shaft and contains a projec-
tion that fits into the cam next to it, so that although the
order of the levers lifting the harnesses may be changed, yet
the relative position of the cams is easily ascertained. To
set the cams on the side-cam loom, proceed in the same
manner as with the under motion; that is, set the cams so
that all the harnesses which are changing will be level when
the crank-shaft is on its bottom center.

CONTINUOUS TAKE-UPS

27. In many cases weavers, instead of regulating the
let-off motion when there is not sufficient friction to hold the
cloth at a proper tension, roll the slack cloth down by means
of turning the take-up gears by hand. This has a strong
tendency toward making the cloth uneven; and although it
may not show prominently in all classes of work, yet the
exact number of picks per inch called for will not be placed
in the cloth. To do away with this evil, continuous take-
ui)» are applied.

An illustration of this motion is given in Fig. 11. On the
cam-shaft is placed a bevel gear b meshing with another
bevel gear b^ on the side shaft r. The side shaft also carries
a single- threaded worm d which drives the worm-gear e.
The inner side of the gear e carries one-half of a clutch, the
other half being attached to the side of the gear g^ which
has no effect on the drive of this train of gears, but simply

158

LOOM ATTACHMENTS

serves as a lei-hack nwihn. The gear g is known as the
pawl ratchet gear. On the same shaft with the gear^ is the
stud gear / which, through the regular train of take-up
gears / (change gears) ,h,k, and /, drives the sand roll. When
the loom is started and the shipper handle brought into its
retaining notch, the two halves of the clutch will be in contact;
and since the bevel gear b is positively driven by the cam-
shaft of the loom, a positive motion will be imparted to the
sand roll and it will be impossible to wind down the cloth by
hand so long as the loom is running* With this motion thin
Lplaces are prevented in the cloth when the loom is stopped

Fi^. U

by the filling running out or breaking, by means of the filling-

Pfork slide acting on the clutch in such a maoner as to disen-
gage the two halves. The tension of the clotli then turns
the sand roll back a slight distance, tlie pawl p being pushed
back until the end of a slot in the pawl comes in contact vi^ith
the stud on which the pawl rests, when the gear g is pre-
vented from turning any further. When the loom is
restarted, the two halves of the clutch are thrown into gearj
and as the gear ^ is now turned in the opposite direction, the
pawl p will drop into the position it occupied before being
pushed back,
ei— 30

AUTOMATIC LOOMS

THE NORTHROP LOOM

INTRODUCTION

1. Within the last few years there have been placed on
the market looms containing devices that render weaving
even more automatic than it is on the ordinary plain loom;
these devices come principally under two heads: filling-
changing mechanisfns and warp siop-moiiotis. With the ordi-
nary plain loom, when the filling in the shuttle is exhausted
the loom is automatically stopped, and it is necessary for
the weaver to replenish the filling before the loom can be
started. This necessarily takes a certain amount of time
and results in lessened production. It is to avoid this loss
of time that the filling-changing device has been invented.
Its objects are: (rt) to make the actual running time of the
loom as great as possible and thus increase production; {b)
by doing away with the necessity of changing a shuttle every
time the filling runs out, to make it possible for the weaver
to tend more looms and by this means lessen the cost of
production. These objects are accomplished by attaching
to the loom certain parts that will automatically supply the
loom with fresh filling whenever the filling breaks or runs
out. The attaching of these parts brings up another feature
that must be successfully met before any filling-changing
mechanism can fully accomplish its objects.

If a weaver should attempt to run an extra number of
looms that were supplied with this device alone, there would
be considerable difficulty in preventing imperfect cloth, since

For notice of copyright, see Page immediately following the title Page

2 AUTOMATIC LOOMS §59

an ordinary plain loom, when a warp end breaks, continues
to run, thus allowing the broken end to become tangled
aroimd adjacent ends and spoil any cloth that may be woven
before the loom is stopped and the broken end drawn in.
To overcome this difficulty, warp stop-motions * are always
applied to looms that have a filling-changing mechanism
attached. The object of a warp stop-motion is to make it
possible for a weaver to run a large number of looms with-
out.the liability of making imperfect cloth. This is accom-
plished by attaching to the loom certain mechanisms that
will detect any broken end in the entire warp and, through
additional mechanism, stop the loom. Thus, by combining
the warp stop-motion with the filling-changing mechanism,
both motions are made more efficient, since a good filling-
changing device should relieve the weaver of considerable
work and therefore make it possible to run a large number of
looms, while a warp stop-motion should make it possible for
this to be done without the attendant risk of imperfect cloth.
If it is considered that, in the manufacture of plain cloth,
the cost of weaving is about equal to the combined cost of
all the other processes, it will readily be understood that any
improvements in the loom along these lines will prove of
immense benefit.

2. The type of automatic looms known as the Northrop
loom, shown in Fig. 1, will be taken to illustrate the general
principles used in the construction and operation of warp
stop-motions and filling-changing devices. The introduction
of these devices, however, has necessitated a change in
many parts of the loom, and consequently it will be found
that in connection with the warp stop-motions and filling-
changing mechanisms there arc parts of the loom that,
although used for the same purpose as certain parts on the
ordinary plain loom, bear little resemblance to them. The
introduction of any new machine also necessarily brings into
use new terms, and in describing this loom the different
parts that are new to the trade will be given the terms
generally applied to them.

i59 AUTOMATIC LOOMS

WARP STOP-MOTIONS

COTTON-HARNESS STOP-MOTION

3. Two methods are commonly adopted on the Northrop
loom to cause it to automatically stop when an end breaks,
one being known as the cotton-harness stop-motion, while the
other is known as the steel-harness stop-motion. The former,
which is attached to the loom shown in Fig. 1, will
be described first. In case a cotton-liarness stop-
motion is used on a loom, the warp ends ai*e drawn
through the eyes of the regular harness and also
through fiat pieces of steel, known as drop wires,
which are supported by a bar, known as the lieddle
bar, that passes through their upper ends. These
drop wires, as shown in Fig. 2, have a slot a at their
upper end through which the heddle bar passes, while
below the slot is placed an eye b through which the
warp end is drawn. Fig. 3 shows the complete mecha-
nism employed to stop the loom in case an end breaks.
In studying this illustration, which simply shows the
parts of the warp stop-motion, reference should also be
made to Fig. 1 to such of these parts as are shown in
connection with the loom. Situated near the front and
at the foot of the loom is a rod />* carrying a casting /«
through a slot in which the lower end of the shipper
rod extends, as shown in Fig. 8. Setscrewed to this
rod p^ is another casting carrying a rod />», which extends
toward the back of the loom and is curved at this end,
forming a collar that passes around the cam-shaft /; its
upper end is shown at /,. Forming a part of the same
casting with the arms A» A i^ ^ bracket/, that serves as a
support for the short shaft ,r, on which are three distinct
parts: the knock-off dog >(',, which is setscrewed to the shaft;
a casting /*, which is loose on the shaft and carries a knock-
off dog similar to ^, (not shown in the illustration) and a
rod ny\ another casting w, which is setscrewed to the shaft x
and carries a finger n^, known as the cam-follower, and a

AUTOMATIC LOOMS

§59 AUTOMATIC LOOMS 5

rod «,. On the cam-shaft / are also placed two castings w».
w, and a cam m. The cam-follower «» is kept pressed
against the cam m by means of the spiral spring x^y one end
of which is attached to the bracket p^, while the other end is
attached to a collar that is fast to the shaft x\ consequently,
when the cam m is acting on the cam-follower «» from its
heel to its toe, the follower w, is being forced out positively
by the cam m, while on the other hand, in passing from the
toe to the heel of the cam, the spring x^ is causing the fol-
lower «x to follow the cam m. The rods «„ «, are connected
at their upper ends to castings «., «„ respectively. The
casting «, is setscrewed to the feeler shaft w*, while the cast-
ing «« is loose on the shaft n^ but is connected to a spiral
spring «„ which in turn is connected to a collar setscrewed
to the shaft w«. By this means, as the rod ;/, is forced down
by the action of the cam ;« on the follower «i, the casting n^
acting through the spring n, will cause the shaft n^ to make
a partial revolution, and in making the partial revolution will
cause the rod w, to rise, since the casting «, is setscrewed to
this shaft. On the other hand, when the rod ;/, is raised,
which action takes place by means of the spring Xx when the
cam-follower ;/» is passing from the toe to the heel of the
cam w, a projection «. on the casting «, engaging with a
projection w. on the casting n^ causes the rod w, to be low-
ered and the shaft n^ to make a partial revolution in the
opposite direction to that in which it moves when the rod ;/,
is lowered. By this means the feeler shaft w« is given an
oscillating motion. A casting carrying the feeler bar A is
setscrewed to this shaft; consequently, as the shaft «* oscil-
lates, this feeler bar I, also receives an oscillating motion.
It is situated directly beneath two castings /, /„ known as siofi-
moiio7i girts, which are a part of a casting that is bolted to the
framework of the loom; this casting also carries the drop-wire
bars /a, /« that pass through the slots «, a^ of the drop wires.
It should be understood that the feeler shaft ;/«, feeler
bar /,, and stop-motion ^irts /,/, extend from one side of the
loom to the other. They are shown broken in Fig. 3 in order
that the different parts may be more clearly represented.

6 AUTOMATIC LOOMS §59

4. The action of this mechanism is as follows: Suppose •
the warp end that is drawn through the drop wire supported
by the bar /, breaks. In this case the drop wire falls until
the upper end of the slot «, comes in contact with the bar /,.
This allows the drop wire to fall far enough to drop between
the feeler bar /x and the stop-motion girt /,, which prevents
the feeler bar A and the feeler shaft w* from oscillating.
Since at this point the motion of the feeler bar A is being
obtained by means of the spring x^ causing the follower «»
to be pressed against the cam ;;/, it is only the action of the
spring Xi that must be overcome by the drop wire. In the
other case, that is, when the drop wire supported by the bar
/♦ is allowed to fall because of the breaking of the warp end
that is drawn through this drop wire, the drop wire will be
trapped between the feeler bar A and the stop-motion girt /.
In this case the cam-follower w, is being positively acted on
by the cam ?//, but since the rod ;/, and casting w, act on the
feeler shaft n^ through the aid of the spring «„ then in this
case it is simply the tension of the spring «, that must be
overcome by the drop wire. In any case, when an end
breaks and a drop wire comes between the feeler bar and
stop-motion girt, one of the knock-off dogs on the shaft .r
comes in the path of either the casting w^ or w„ causing
the entire casting carrying the arms />,,/>, to be pushed back.
As the arm />» is brought back it turns the rod />^, which,
giving a partial revohition to the casting />„ throws the
shipper handle from its retaining notch and stops the loom.

The somewhat complicated arrangement for stopping the
loom when an end breaks is necessitated because of the fact
that the drop wires, being exceedingly light, require that
the loom shall be stopped without bringing any great strain
on them when they become trapped between the stop-motion
girts and the feeler bar. In order to further eliminate the
danger of the drop wires becoming bent when an end
breaks, the two sides of the feeler bar /, that come in con-
tact with the drop wires are serrated, and thus hold the drop
wires in such a manner that their edge and not their flat
side will be brought in contact with the stop-motion girts.

§59

AUTOMATIC LOOMS

STEEL.-HARNESS STOP-MOTION

5. When a steel-Iiarness stop-motion is applied to
the loom, the warp ends, instead of being drawn through
the regular harnesses, are drawn through flat pieces of steel
that serve as heddles and that are supported by a bar,
known as the heddle bar, passing through their upper
ends. The heddle bars serve as a part of the frame-
work of the harness, and are connected at their ends by
side pieces that are connected directly to the harness

n jacks. Fig. 4 illustrates this style of heddle, which is
also shown suspended in Fig. 6. The heddle bar U
passes through the slot a, while the warp end is drawn
through the eye b; the lower end of this heddle hangs
loose and is kept in place by passing between the
jL stop-motion girt / and rods.

Pxo.4

Pig. 5

Fig. 5 shows the lower connections of the steel-harness
stop-motion. On the cam-shaft / is placed a cam ;// that has
the projections ;;/j, w, cast on one side. The casting p car-
ries two arms A, />„ forming a link that slides over the cam-
shaft / in a similar manner to that described in connection
with the cotton-harness stop-motion. Supported by the

AUTOMATIC LOOMS

casting p is the shaft /» on which is setscrewed the cam-
follower «i, which is kept pressed against the cam m by
means of a coil spring. Setscrewed to the same shaft is
the knock-off ky which is a part of the casting n that carries

the connecting-rod «,. The
arm px forms a connection
with the shipper handle of
the loom in the same manner
as previously described.

Fig. 6 shows the connec-
tion of the rod «. at its upper
end to the feeler shaft «*.
The shaft «* carries a quad-
rant gear that gears into
another quadrant gear on a
shaft similar to «* that carries
another feeler bar A. This
arrangement is such that both
feeler bars A move toward
the stop-motion girt / when
the follower rix is passing
from the toe to the heel of
the cam; consequently, in this
case, when a warp end breaks
and the drop wire becomes
trapped between the stop-
motion girt / and the feeler
bars /,, it is simply the action
of the spiral spring on the
shaft /i that must be over-
come. In this case the cam-
follower w, is prevented from
following the cam tn and the
knock-oflF dog k is brought in
the path of one of the projections ;;/,, ;;/,. This causes the cast-
ing />, with all its parts, to be pushed back, bringing the arm/,
with it and pushing the shipper handle from its retaining
notch by the same means as described in Art. 3.

Fig. 6

§59

AUTOMATIC LOOMS

PIIililNG-CHANGING MOTIONS

6. As previously stated, the object of all filling:-
cliaui^us uiotlons is to supply fresh filling to the loom
in case the filling breaks or runs out. In the Northrop
loom this is accomplished by automatically ejecting from
the shuttle the empty bobbin and inserting in its place a
full bobbin, which is taken from a supply constantly held in
reserve by mechanism known as the hopper. Referring
to Fig. 1, parts of the hopper are shown at ky k^, ^., k., and,
as will be seen, this hopper contains a number of bobbins
filled with yam. A full description of this hopper will
be given later, it being sufficient to state here that as the
bobbin that is carried by the shuttle becomes empty, or
in case the filling breaks, the bobbin is ejected from the
shuttle and a fresh bobbin taken from the hopper and
inserted in its place. This hopper arrangement is acted
on primarily by the filling stop-motion, and taking the dif-
ferent parts in the order in which they act, this motion will
be described first.

7. Filling Stop-Motion.— Fig. 7 is a view of the filling
stop-motion used on the Northrop loom, which, it will be

Fig. 7

noticed, differs very materially from the one found on the
ordinary plain loom. The different parts of this motion are
attached to the filling-fork slide c. The finger a is worked
by the cam on the cam-shaft similarly to the ordinary plain
loom, and has attached to it, by a pin, a filling-motion
hook «t, which is shown engaged with a slot in the fillin<i'

10 AUTOMATIC LOOMS §59

fork ^a. This iSlling-motion hook is supported at its outer
end by the casting r,. A brass attachment Cy serves as a
weight for the filling fork, thus preventing it from lifting
too high; another piece of brass d^ on which is a projec-
tion that supports the dog d^, moves back and forth on the
casting d^. The filling fork is so constructed that, when
the absence of filling is first detected, it will turn a rod
placed beneath the breast beam known as the starting
rod. This causes the filling to be changed without stop-
ping the loom.

The operation of this mechanism is as follows: When the
shuttle is thrown across the loom without the filling, the
prongs of the filling fork r, will not be disturbed; conse-
quently, the projection on the filling-motion hook a^ will
engage with the slot in the filling fork, and, as the finger a
is forced back by the cam, it will bring with it the slide c.
since the filling fork is attached to this slide. The cast-
ing d, however, will be stopped by the projection d^ when
the entire slide has moved sufficiently to allow the dog y,
to escape the lever b that operates the shipper handle. The
end of the slide c will come in contact with the lever r,
fastened to the starting rod, and the filling-changing device
will be set in operation. By means of this device a new
supply of filling will be placed in the shuttle to replace that
broken or exhausted, and consequently when next the shuttle
passes the filling fork, the latter will be raised as usual.

However, should the filling again be absent on the next
pick the loom will be stopped in the following manner:
When the finger a is moved inwards by the cam, the slide c
will be forced into its original position by the lever /•,.
which is kept pressed against it by a spring on the rod con-
necting with the filling-changer; but as the slide is pushed
inwards, bringing with it the dog ^A, the projection on this
dog will engage with the projection on d, thus pushing it
inwards and allowing the dog d, to remain down. As the
slide c is again forced outwards on the next pick by the
action of the hook a^ engaging with the filling fork, the dog
dx will engage with the lever by which during the previous

§59 AUTOMATIC LOOMS 11

operation it missed, owing to its being supported by d.
The lever b being acted on by d^ will throw oflE the shipper
handle, thus stopping the loom.

On the other hand, should the iSlling-changing device act
properly on the first operation of the filling stop-motion, the
loom wiU continue to run, since the hook a^ at its next out-
ward movement will miss the iSlling fork, owing to the
fork being raised by the iSlling. The end of the finger a
will come in contact with d, pushing it into its position
and raising dx, thus placing the different parts in their
original positions.

8. Connection Between Filling: Btop-Motion and
Hopper. — Fig. 8 shows the connection between the filling
stop-motion and the hopper, or magazine, that supplies fresh
filling. The lever e^ is here shown connected to the starting
rod e, which rests in supports placed under the breast beam.
At the other end of the starting rod is shown a spring e^
that serves to hold the lever e^ in position, by keeping it
firmly pressed against the back of the filling-fork slide. On
the first pick that the filling is absent, the filling-fork slide
will press back the lever ex, which will turn the rod e and
extend the spring e,.

Referring to Fig. 10, the object of extending the spring e^
is to allow the latch finger^ to come in such a position that
the bunter^., which is connected to the lay of the loom, will
engage with it. The manner in which this is accomplished
is more clearly shown in Fig. 9, which shows .some of the
parts of this motion that are situated on the inner side of
the framework of the loom. Certain of the parts shown in
Fig. 10 are removed in Fig. 9, in order that the parts shown
in this figure may be more clearly represented. The rod e
acts on the spring r, through the arm ^„ one end of which
rests upon the projection j^^ carried by the casting /^^, The
latch finger ^, being acted on by a coil spring, has a tend-
ency to be pushed inwards and upwards. The finger ^, is
secured to a stud carried by the casting ^« and bears against
the pin gx on the latch finger ^. The action of the arm e.

AUTOMATIC LOOMS

§59

resting on the projection g^ causes the iSnger g^ to prevent
the latch finger g from occupying the position it naturally

would if no force were acting on it contrary to that of its coil
spring. The different parts of this mechanism are shown as

§69

AUTOMATIC LOOMS

they appear when the filling-fork slide is pressed against the
finger e^ and causes the spring e^ to be extended.

Fig. 10 shows the connection between the latch finger and
the transferrer h^ which pushes the full bobbin into the
shuttle. This figure also shows the inner plate k of the
hopper, which is shown in full in Fig. 1. This plate serves
to hold the heel of the bobbin, which is also shown in
Fig. 10. The projection on the transferrer h rests directly

Pio. 9

upon the heel of the bobbin, while the transferrer fork, which
is connected to the transferrer h at the point //«, extends the
length of the bobbin and rests upon its nose. Thus, if any
force acts on the transferrer h to push it down it will, aided
by the transferrer fork, push the bobbin from the hopper.

9. The operation of this mechanism is as follows: When
the filling is absent, the filling fork is not raised, and conse-
quently the filling-motion hook will engage with the slot in

AUTOMATIC LOOMS

§so

Fig. 10

§59 AUTOMATIC LOOMS 15

the filling fork and push the slide backwards; this move-
ment will cause the slide to come in contact with the
lever ^j, Fig. 8, which will turn the starting rod e and raise
the end of the arm ^„ Fig. 9, thereby extending the spring ^,.
This movement will allow the spring that is constantly work-
ing on the latch finger g. Fig. 9, to throw this part of the
mechanism inwards and upwards, thus bringing it in posi-
tion to engage with the bvmter ^„ Fig. 10, fastened to the
lay of the loom. The latch finger in being pressed back by
the bunter as the lay comes forwards, will throw the trans-
ferrer // downwards, thus causing it to push a bobbin of
filling from the hopper k into the shuttle g,. Fig. 10, which
at this point should be directly under the bobbin to be
inserted. As the full bobbin is pressed into the shuttle by
the transferrer it will come in contact with the bobbin held
by the shuttle, pushing this bobbin through the bottom of
the shuttle and placing the new bobbin in its correct posi-
tion. The bottom of the shuttle, as will be described, has a
space sufficiently large to allow the bobbin that is to be
ejected to pass through it, the bobbin then coming in
contact with the chute ^„ which guides it into the recep-
tacle g placed to receive these bobbins.

As the transfer of the bobbin is made while the loom is
running at its regular speed, it will be seen that it is very
essential to have the shuttle in an exact position when the
transfer takes place. In some cases, the shuttle may be
rebounding in the box, and if there were not some arrange-
ment by .means of which the operation of this mechanism
could be stopped at such times, certain parts would be sub-
jected to a severe strain. This is guarded against by the
shuttle feeler /, Fig. 9, which acts as follows: When the
spring er is extended by means of the starting rod being
turned, and allows the coil spring on the latch finger g to
bring this part of the mechanism forwards, the pin g^ will
push the finijer g^ forwards, which movement will throw
the shuttle feeler / forwards, so that it will occupy a position
directly in front f)f the box when the lay is brought forwards.
However, should any part of the shuttle be projecting from

91—21

16 AUTOMATIC LOOMS §59

the box, it will come in contact with the shuttle feeler /, push-
ingf it back and lowering the latch finger^. The bunter on
the lay, in coming forwards, will consequently miss the latch
finger, and a new bobbin of filling not being supplied to the
loom, the filling stop-motion will again operate and this
time stop the loom.

10. Hopper. — The hopper, or magazine attachment, is
always situated at the right-hand side of the loom, and is so
constructed that it will hold twenty-four full bobbins, or
cops, a space equal to that occupied by four bobbins having
to be left empty at that point where the transferrer is situ-
ated. The object of the hopper is to bring a bobbin, or cop,
of filling into the correct position to be acted on by the
transferrer. Referring to Fig. 1, the heel of the bobbin is
placed in a recess in the plate k, while the nose is pressed
into a spring attached to the plate A\; the end of the filling
is then passed over a plate k^ and attached to the stud /•. of
the hopper. In this manner the bobbin is held firmly in the
magazine, and yet not so firmly but that it may be easily
pressed out and into the shuttle when it is required to change
the filling. As the end of the filling is attached to the
stud ^«, it will be held in this position when the shuttle is
driven across the loom for the first pick after the bobbin has
been inserted.

The manner in which the hopper is turned and brings a new
bobbin into the required position after the preceding bobbin
has been inserted in the shuttle may be understood by refer-
ring to Fig. 10, which shows a view of that side of the plate Jb in
which the heel of the bobbin is inserted. On the face of this
plate is attached a ratchet ^',, in the teeth of which works the
pawl i\y which is fastened to the transferrer // by a bolt and
nut x\ When the transferrer is thrown down by the action
of the bunter ^e engaging with the latch .^, it brings with it
the pawl X%, which being made large, as shown in this figure,
has sufficient weight to fall forwards as well as downwards
each time it becomes disengaged from a tooth of the ratchet.
When the lay swings back, the transferrer is pushed up by a

§59

AUTOMATIC LOOMS

coil spring //, and brings with it the pawl A\, which engaging^
with the ratchet^ turns the hopper until the next bobbin
comes in contact with the casting h^, which is so placed that
it allows the hopper to turn just far enough to bring the
bobbin in the exact position it should
occupy? to be pushed into the shuttle* The
pawl ^,, which is fastened to the frame-
work of the loom, prevents the hopper
from turning in the opposite direction and i
consequently* acts simply as a stop* pawl,

11 • ShuttleB* — Fig. 11 shows a type
of (Shuttle used in the Northrop loom.
It is self4hreading and does not contain
any spindle to hold the bobbin ^ in place,
but is so constructed that the bobbin can
pass into the shuttle « at the top and nut
through the bottom. In the end of the
shuttle opposite that in which the eye is
placed^ is the shuttle spring a,, which ex-
tends to both sides of the shuttle. This
spring has notches in each side into which
rings ^1 on the bobbins are forced, thus
holding the bobbin in positionp If the
shuttle should chance to be too far in the
box when the bobbin is being forced into
it, the bobbin will strike the bent piece of
steel a^ placed between the spring. This
is inclined at one end so that, as the bob-
bin strikes this inclined slide, either the
bobbin itself will be forced forwards into
position or the shuttle will be forced
'back nntil It is in the correct position fio. u

to receive the bobbin.

The manner in which this shuttle threads itself is as fol-
lows: After the bobbin has been placed in it» the shnltle
is driven across the lay, but the end of filling is held by
being wound around the niud of the hoM>«r, so that the

18 AUTOMATIC LOOMS §59

filling will be unwound from the bobbin. In doing so, it will
drop into the slot a, that runs lengthwise of the shuttle.
The shuttle will next be driven across the loom in the oppo-
site direction; the filling will drop into another slot a^ and
pass through the shuttle eye a„ thus completing the opera-
tion of threading the shuttle, the filling c occupying the posi-
tion shown in Fig. 11. This shuttle eye is designed to
prevent, as far as possible, the filling from being thrown for-
wards and escaping from the slot, or horn.

12. Bobbins. — Fig. 12 gives a view of the bobbin used
in this shuttle, which differs somewhat from those found in

Fig. 12

the ordinary shuttle. At its lower end are placed two rings
bx that fit in the notches in the spring in the shuttle and thus
hold the bobbin in the shuttle during the time that the filling
is being taken from it and placed in the cloth.

Owing to the contraction and expansion of bobbins in the
weave room it would be a disadvantage to have these rings
in one piece; on this account they are split and put on the
bobbin so that they will allow the bobbin to contract or
expand. It will be readily noticed that it will not be pos-

FiG. 13

sible for these rings to be perfectly round at all times, and
it might naturally follow that they would not always fit per-
fectly into the grooves in the shuttle spring. To obviate
this difticulty, the rings are so applied to the bobbin that
the slots will not be opposite or together; thus, one ring
will offset the other more ox: less.

13, Skewers. — I^^ij^^ 1.*^ is an illustration of a ske%vor,
on which is placed the cop when using cop filling. In

§59 AUTOMATIC LOOMS 19

weaving^ with this filling, more care should be taken in
settingf the pick, in order to obtain as lig^ht a pick as pos-
sible, since the shock due to the sudden stopping of the
shuttle very often causes the filling to break or several
coils to slub off the nose of the cop, consequently making
a serious amount of waste.

A long shuttle box is also placed on these looms in order
to aid in checking the shuttle more gradually.

ADDITIONAIi ATTACHMENTS ON AUTOMATIC

liOOMS

14. In addition to the parts of this loom that differ in
construction from those found on the plain loom, and that
have already been described, there will be found others
that, although they cannot be said to be of vital importance,
contribute to the successful nmning of the loom.

If it is remembered that the filling is changed while the
loom is running at its regular speed, without stopping
any of the rapidly revolving parts, the importance of having
the shuttle in the exact position to receive the new bobbin
will readily be understood. An aid in regulating the posi-
tion of the shuttle for this purpose is the connection made
on this loom between the crank-arm and the lay, which,
instead of consisting of a simple strap and pin as on the
ordinary plain loom, has an eccentric, by means of which it
is possible to regulate exactly the distance that the lay will
come forwards; therefore, if the shuttle is a little behind or
ahead of the exact position it should occupy when the trans-
fer takes place, it may be given its exact position by simply
turning the eccentric.

15. Temple. — As already explained, the end of the fill-
ing is attached to a stud on the outside of the hopper;
consequently, when a new bobbin is transferred to the
shuttle, there will be an end of the filling extending from the
stud to the selvage of the cloth, which would detract from
the good appearance of the cloth if allowed to remain. To
prevent this, the temple, shown in Fig. 14, that is placed

AUTOMATIC LOOMS

on the hopper side of the loom is provided with an attach-
ment that severs this end of fillinj^ and leaves the selvagfe
free of any loose threads. The only parts that differ from
those found on the ordinary plain looms are the blades rand
the arm a.

The operation is as follows: The blades of the cutter are
kept up out of the way of the filling until the lay comes for-
wards and strikes the arm n of the
thread cutter, thus forcing down the
blades r, catching the filling between
^j the temple and the blades, and cut-
^ ting it close to the selvage,

16. Take- Up. — Another device
found on this loom is the high take-
up roll for wioding down the cloth,

sho\vn in Fig. 15, The cloth, instead
of passing over the breast beami
passes over a roller, behind the
breast beam, and then on to the
cloth roller, which is placed directly
beneath the first roller. This arrange-
ment allows more space for the fixer
when fixing any of the mechanism
beneath the loom. Another advan-
tage is that the cloth, when wound
down in this manner, will be of a
more uniform width. ^VTien the take-
up is some distance from the fell of the cloth, there is an
opportunity for shrinking or wrinkling that does not exist
when the cloth is stretched over the rough surface of Oie
roll almost immediately after it is woven. Another advan-
tage is that the breast beam comes outside of the cloth,
thus protecting it from any blemish that is liable to result
when the weaver leans over the loom in the act of drawing
in ends.

Referring to Fig- 15, :r is a handle fastened to a shaft on
which is the worm s^, meshed with which is the worm-

Fi«. H

\6Q

AUTOMATIC LOOMS

gear Sm, which is loose on the gear-shaft 5,, On the end of
the gear-shaft is another g^ear u, which works in the teeth
of the vertical rack u^. This rack supports a bearing in
which rests the cloth roller. The gear-shaft extends nearly
the entire length of the loom» and contains the same mech-

Pic. 15

anism at each side supporting both ends of the cloth roller,
one side only being shown in the figure*

As stated, the gear s, is not fastened to the gear-shaft, bat
simply works on it. Fastened to the hub of this gear, how-
ever, is one end of the coil spring f, while the other end it

22 AUTOMATIC LOOMS §59

connected to the collar Vx that is setscrewed to the shaft; con-
sequently, the tension of the spring will counterbalance the
weight of the rack and cloth roller. As the cloth is wound
on the roll, the roll naturally becomes larger and forces the
rack 7ii down, thus turning the shaft s^ and tightening the
spring V, In this manner the cloth is woimd firmly on the roll.
When it is desired to remove the woven cloth, the handle 5
is turned to the left, which loosens the spring and allows the
weight of the cloth roller to cause the rack to drop. In
order to raise the cloth roll into position again, the handle 5
is turned to the right; this tightens the spring and causes
the gear-shaft to revolve, thus turning the gear and lifting
the rack and, consequently, the cloth roller.

17. One-Hand Desijpi. — Northrop looms are always
made one-liand; that is, in all cases the shipping mechanism
and take-up gears are found at the left, while the hopper and
its different parts are placed at the right of the loom. It is,
of course, necessary to place the pulleys of some looms on
the right-hand side in order to meet the requirements of the
belting, so that in some cases the shipper handle will be at
the left of the loom while the pulleys are found at the right.
When this is the case, the belt is shifted by means of a cross-
connection extending from the shipper handle to the belt
fork. This arrangement allows all the different parts of the
loom, without rejifard to which side of the loom the pulley
may be attached, to always be one-hand.

FIXING

18. The many additional parts found on the Northrop
loom will necessitate additional care on the part of the fixer,
especially as these different parts reciuire exactness in set-
ting in order that they may perfcjrm their work at the proper
time and without the breakage of any of the several parts.
In dealing with the setting and timing of the motions of this
loom, those parts that are duplicated in the ordinary plain
loom, such as the harness cams, pick cams, etc., will not
be considered.

§59 AUTOMATIC LOOMS 28

19. Bettlnsr the Warp Stop-Mot loii. — The instniO'
tions, and also the letters of reference, jjiven in connection
with setting the different parts that automatically stop tho
loom when a warp end breaks, apply eciually well to tho
motions shown in both Figs. 3 and 5. First knock otT
the belt and place the shipper handle in its retaining notch.
This will bring the different parts of this motion into tho
same position that they occupy when the loom is running:.
With the shipper handle in this position, the link formed by
the armspxypty and which fits over the cam-shaft, should he
pressed firmly against its bearings. After regulating this
part of the motion, turn the loom over and see that the cam-
points do not come in contact with the knock-off dogs.
These parts may be regulated by means of the setscrews l)y
which the knock-off dogs are connected to the shaft, or they
may also be regulated by means of lengthening or shorten-
ing the connecting-rods. In some cases the cam that
actuates the cam-follower is secured to the harness cams by
means of a clutch; consequently, all that is necessary when
setting this cam is to set the harness cams to give the «:or-
rect shedding motion. After regulating the position of these
different parts, allow one of the drop wires to assume the
position it would take if the end drawn throng!) it should
break; turn the loom by hand and sec that one of the
projections engages projierly with the knock-ofT lever
and throws the shipjxrr handle out of its retaining not^;h.
With both motions shown in P'igs. '/ and fi, the it^ryit'um
of the feeler bars should Ix: carefully regulated. With
the motion shown in Fig. '/. the feeler bar /., v/heri it ha^

moved thro"gh

haj: the s;^a'j

e travel

ed. shoi3>J

}^:

\\l*Z

center rxrtweer.

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y, thar

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'h ''lire'^tior,'- f

rorr, •?*:

: X.:::v 7

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'JiT.

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//.

by rz.v:''4 V.-

h 7,ar*-, w. «,

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-.r.^r* //,

-♦V

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ir.orior. sh-, vr.

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^:'::';:

'/.:': 1 ■'.'

/:/\

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*.'.*,

r:st s™^-'-:;

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'';*^ *.',': ?.';'

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24 . AUTOMATIC LOOMS §59

the lowest part of the cam m, and may be regulated by
means of the connecting-rod w, or by adjusting the feeler
bars on their shafts.

Care should be taken to have the spring that keeps the
follower pressed against the face of the cam tight enough
to enable the follower to be at all times in contact with the
cam; yet this spring should not be so tight that the drop
wires will be bent in case they become trapped between the
feeler bar and the stop-motion girt.

20. Settliii? the Fillingr-Clian^lii^ Motion. — When
timing the parts of this loom that automatically replenish
the filling, it is very essential to set the filling fork and its
different parts in such a manner that they will work to the
best advantage, since the successful operation of the other
motions are dependent on the manner in which the parts of
the filling fork operate. With the shuttle in the box, but
without any filling in the shed, turn the loom until the crank-
shaft is on its front center. When in this position, have the
prongs of the filling fork pass through the grid without
touching in any manner the sides of the grid; also, see that
the filling-motion hook engages properly with the fork and
pushes the slide backwards, thus turning the starting rod.
(Continue to turn the loom until the hunter on the lay
engages with the latch finger. As this finger is pushed back
by the hunter, the transferrer fork will commence to push
the full bobbin from the hopper into the shuttle.

At this point, the transferrer should be directly over the
opening in the top of the shuttle. If it is not in the correct
position and the difficulty is with the fork, it may be bent
into the desired position. Should the lay, however, bring
the shuttle too far forwards, or not far enough, this diffi-
culty may be remedied by turning the eccentric that connects
the crank-arms to the lay swords.

At the point where the transferrer completes its work of
inserting the bobbin, it should press lightly on the bobbin.
As the distance that the tran:;ferrer moves through is deter-
mined by the distance that the latch finger is pressed back

§59 AUTOMATIC LOOMS 25

by the bunter, it will be seen that if the transferrer presses
on the bobbin too hard, it may be regulated by setting^ the
latch finger back by means of the adjusting screwy,, Fig. 9.
On the other hand, if the transferrer presses too lightly, the
latch finger may be moved forwards.

When regulating the shuttle feeler, have the shuttle pro-
ject from the mouth of the box on the side that contains the
hopper. Turn the loom until the shuttle feeler is in contact
with the shuttle, and then see that the bunter does not
engage with the latch finger as the lay comes forwards.
When the shuttle is well in the box and the lay is as far
forwards as it will go, the shuttle feeler should be very
close to the back plate of the box.

21. Position of the Shuttle. — It is very important
that the shuttle be in exactly its correct position to receive
the cop, or bobbin, as it is pushed in by the transferrer.
Many things, however, will tend to interfere with the shuttle
being in its correct position. For instance, the picker stick
may not have enough power to throw the shuttle well into
the box; or, on the other hand, it may have too much power,
causing the shuttle to rebound.

If through any cause the shuttle is projecting from the
box when the filling-changer is set in motion, the shuttle
feeler should prevent the transferring of the bobbin, but
there is another defect that should be carefully noted. The
picker may be so badly worn that it will allow the shuttle to
go too far into the box. This should be carefully watched,
and when the picker becomes worn it should be replaced by
a new one or an extra piece of leather placed on the lay
end, thus compensating for the wear and preventing the
picker stick from moving, so far back.

22. Hopper Adjtistment. — The spring //„ Fig. 10,
that turns the hopper should be carefully regulated in order
that no strain may be brought on the different parts when a
new bobbin is brought into place. Care should also be
taken that, when running the loom, the spaces in the hopper
for inserting the bobbins are not left empty, since in this

26 AUTOMATIC LOOMS

case there is certain to be more or less jar on the different
parts when a fresh bobbin is brought into position to be
acted on by the transferrer.

CliOTH DEFECTS

23. Many of the common defects found in cloth woven
on an ordinary plain loom, especially warp ends out, are
greatly lessened by means of the automatic attachments
found on the Northrop loom, while at the same time there
will be found defects in cloth woven in this loom that will
not appear in cloth produced by the ordinary plain loom.
These defects, although they cannot be said to occur fre-
quently, do appear at times, and it is always well to under-
stand their cause.

In some cases, a heavy pick of filling will show in the
cloth and have the appearance of a cord running entirely or
part way across the cloth. This may appear to be, and in
fact may be, due to the filling being given off by the bobbin
in a large quantity, while in other cases it may be due to
the ends of filling that have been cut by the temple. When
the bobbin is placed in the hopper, the end is passed
around the stud on the outside of the magazine; conse-
quently, when the filling is cut close to the selvage, a thread
several inches in length is left hanging to the stud. After
a time several ends will collect in this manner, which, if not
removed by the weaver, are liable to be caught by the lay
and carried through the shed by the shuttle, thus causing
a bunch of filling to appear in the woven cloth.

Another defect that will have the opposite effect — that
is, picks missing — is sometimes due to the filling-cutting
arrangement on the temple being improperly set. In some
cases, these blades will be set in such a manner that they will
cut the filling as the shuttle is entering the box on the maga-
zine side of the loom. When this happens, the pick of filling
will be wanting as the shuttle is again driven across the loom,
but the end hanging from the shuttle will be caught by the
selvages on the opposite side of the loom as they change;

§59 AUTOMATIC LOOMS 27

consequently, the filling will be inserted agfain on the next
pick; thus, only every other pick of filling will be inserted
in the cloth.

In some cases, the shuttle on the Northrop loom will not
thread itself when a new bobbin is inserted. This is due in
almost every case to the eye of the shuttle being clogged,
through lint or some other foreign substance gathering in it.
This is easily remedied. At other times, the shuttles may
be stopped so suddenly that the filling will be thrown for-
wards in such a manner as to unthread itself. If this occurs
when the shuttle is in the box on the end away from the
magazine, the filling will be broken, since the shuttle must
be moving away from the hopper when it commences to
thread itself. The filling-changing motion will consequently
operate, and a bobbin with yarn on it will be ejected from
the shuttle. _____

WEIGHT AND POWER

24. A Northrop loom will weigh a little more than the
ordinary plain loom, while the power necessary to 4rive it
has been estimated to be about i horsepower. A test was
made with looms running 190 picks per minute and it was
found that these looms averaged 3f looms to 1 horsepower.
This test does not include the power necessary to drive
the shafting.

28 AUTOMATIC LOOMS

OTHER TYPES OF AUTOMATIC LOOMS

25. The previous description of automatic looms does
not exhaust all the devices that have been invented for the
purpose of running looms more automatically, either in
regfard to filling-changing devices or arrangements for detect-
ing broken threads of warp. These advantages are so desir-
able that their attainment has been the object of many
inventions. The Northrop loom described differs consider-
ably from the earlier patterns of the same loom, the experi-
ence gained in the operation of these having led to many
improvements from time to time.

The loom described changes the filling by removing the
bobbin, or cop, from the shuttle and replacing it with a new
bobbin, or cop, but other types that have been tried and found
practicable to a certain extent are so constructed as to change
the shuttle. One device provides for automatically sliding
the shuttle containing the empty bobbin out of the shuttle
box when the filling runs out or breaks, and replacing it with
another shuttle containing a full bobbin; this is sometimes
spoken of as the sJnittle-shiftiiig arrangement ^ the change
being made without stopping the loom. Another method
provides for the changing of the shuttle in similar cases, but
the loom is automatically stopped, the change of the shuttle
made automatically, and the loom automatically restarted.
This is the principle adopted on the Harriman loom. As
the Northrop arrangement is the one that has been most
largely adopted, it is the one that has been selected for full
description, as it would be impossible to describe all arrange-
ments for filling-changing that have been used and discarded
or that are now in use.

26, The same remarks apply to warp stop-devices, very
many of which have been introduced from time to time.
The arrangement that has been described is known as a

§59 AUTOMATIC LOOMS 29

mechanical warp stop-device; but there are many other types
of mechanical devices, almost all of which (like the one
described) depend on the principle of a steel harness, a hook,
or a pin supported by each warp thread dropping^ when the
warp thread breaks and by suitable mechanism stopping
the- loom.

Electricity has also been utilized in warp stop-devices to a
certain extent. In an electrical warp stop-device, certain
parts of the loom are electrically insulated from one another
and only brought in contact when the breaking of an end
allows the pin that it supports to drop. These pins, which
are made of brass or copper, complete the electric circuit,
thereby enabling a current of electricity to magnetize a piece
of soft iron, which attracts and changes the position of cer-
tain mechanisms and thus stops the loom.

27. In dealing with this subject it has been assumed
that the filling-changing arrangement and the warp stop-
motion are always used together, but this is not absolutely
necessary. It is always customary, when the filling-changing
device is used, to adopt some form of warp stop-mption to
work in connection with it, but when using the warp stop-
motion it is not necessary, or even always customary, to use
the filling-changing device. Thousands of looms are in
operation that are not provided with filling-changing devices,
but are provided with either mechanical or electrical warp
stop-motions.

DOBBIES

INTRODUCTION

1. When harnesses are employed, all the warp ends that
are drawn through any one harness are raised and lowered
tog^ether as that harness is raised and lowered; that is, each
warp end drawn through this harness is manipulated in
exactly the same manner as every other end drawn through
it. The number of harnesses that can be operated by a cam-
loom is limited by the amount of space available for the
cams; and as cams take up considerable room, it will readily
be seen that cam-looms are limited to a small number of
harnesses. It may also be stated that where looms are fre-
quently chataged from one weave to another it is necessary
to keep a large variety of cams on hand, and in addition the
changing of a cam-loom from one weave to another involves
considerable work.

For these reasons it is not the general custom in America
to run more than 6 harnesses in a cam-loom, and conse-
quently not more than six different interlacings of the ends
in the entire warp can be obtained, no matter how many
ends the warp may contain. Therefore, when it is desired
to weave a pattern in which it is necessary to manipulate
more than 6 ends differently, some mechanism other than
cams is used to operate the harnesses. If the number of
ends that work differently exceeds 6 but does not exceed 25,
adobby is generally employed. The method of drawing the
warp ends through the harnesses is the same for a dobby loom
as for a cam-loom; consequently, the number of harnesses that

For notice of copyright, ue page immediately following t/u titU Page

160
91—22

2 DOBBIES

are used limits the number of ends that can work differently,
the chief advantage of a dobby over cam** being that with the
former more harnesses can be manipulated. The adoption
of 6 harnesses and 25 harnesses as the limits of the scope of
a dobby is not arbitrary, as the numbers may vary some-
what, according to circumstances.

VARIETIES OF SHEDS

2. The manner in which the different mechanisms,
employed to move the harnesses, form the shed in the
loom will be found to differ largely; therefore, before dealing
with the parts of the dobby it is advisable to describe the
various kinds of sheds that are produced.

3. Open Shed. — Fig. 1 illustrates the positions occupied
by the warp ends in open shedding. In this style of shed-

FlG. 1

ding, on one pick the warp ends form the top and bottom
lines b,a. After the filling has been inserted, if there are
any ends in the bottom line a that are required to be moved
to the top line b on the next pick, these ends alone will be
raised, while the remaining ends that form the bottom line
will be left in this position. Similarly any ends in the top
line b that are required to be moved to the bottom line a
will be lowered, the remaining ends being held stationary at
the top line b. Consequently, in this form of shedding only
those ends that require changing are moved, and those ends
that it is not necessary to change remain stationary. This
form of shedding produces the least strain on the yarn, since
the ends in the top shed are moved only when they are
required to be down, and the ends in the bottom shed are
raised only when they are required to be up. The least
strain is also brought on the shedding mechanism of the-

§co

DOBBIES

loom with this style of shedding, as the harnesses that are
being lowered balance to a certain extent those harnesses
that are being raised. This style of shed can also be formed
in the least time, since there is no unnecessary movement
given to the yarn*

FtQ.2

4, CloBe Bhed> — Pig. 2 illustrates the method of forming
a close sliecl. In this style of shedding all the yarn assumes
—^ the position shown bv the line a between each two picks of

pick is lowered to the bottom shed after each pick, where
all the yarn assumes the same position. Then those ends
that it is desired to have up on the next pick are lifted to
the top line 6. Consequently, if any yarn on one pick
assumes the position shown by the doited line h and it is
desired to have it assume the same position on the next
pick, it must be lowered to the bottom shed and then raised
again. It will be seen that with this form of shedding cer-
tain ends must move through twice as much space as is nec-
essary with an open shed,

»5. Split 8lied. — Fig, 3 illustrates the positions assumed
by the warp ends when forming a spilt sh<»a. In this case all
the warp yam assumes the position shown by the line tt after
each pick of the loom. Those ends that are required to be up

-f^^ftZ

Fig. 3

on the next pick are raised from the center a to the top line c,
while those ends that are required to be down on the same
pick are lowered from the center line a to the bottom line /\
Consequently, with this form of shedding, any warp ends thai
I are in the lop shed on one pick and that it is desired to lower

4 DOBBIBS 100

to the bottom shed on the next pick are dropped to the
center a and then continue in their movement to the bottom
line b^ while those ends that are in the bottom shed on one
pick and are to be moved to the top shed on the next pick are
raised to the center a and continue their movement to the top
line c. Any ends that are in the top shed on one pick and
are to be in the top shed on the next pick are lowered to the
center a and then raised to the top line c. Aaj ends that are
in the bottom shed on one pick and that are to be in the bot-
tom shed on the next pick are raised to the center line a and
then lowered to the bottom line d. This form of shedding
is produced in about the same time as an open shed, since
the yam can be raised from the bottom to the center line and
returned to the bottom again in the same time that it takes
an end to drop from the top line to the bottom line, the same
being true of any of the ends in the^top,.li^s^that are to be
dropped to the center and tfi^^frt^^^^i^d loathe top.

6. Compound Sited.— 7i^. '4 illiistrateslthe positions
assumed by the warp endfe in forming a compound 8hed«
In this form of shed, any ends;tl^$V.4te't6^main in the bot-
tom shed for more than ono^pick remain -^dtionary at the

Fig. 4

bottom line a; but any ends that are in the top shed d on one
pick and are to be a part of the same shed on the next pick
are lowered to the line c and then raised to the line d; while
those ends that are in the top shed on one pick and are
required to form a part of the bottom shed on the next pick
continue their movement to the bottom line a. Those ends
that are a part of the bottom shed on one pick and are to be
a part of the top shed on the next pick are raised from the
bottom line a to the top line d. In this form of shedding
certain harnesses tend to balance others, since during the
time that the ends in the top shed are dropping, those ends

'C ;

§60 DOBBIES 5

in the bottom shed that are to be up on the next pick are
being raised.

7. It should be understood that the different formations
of sheds described are not all employed to an equally large
extent, since some are found only on certain types of looms.
Most of the dobbies as made today form an open shed, and
unless otherwise mentioned, all references to shedding will
be understood to refer to this type.

SINGLE-CYLINDER DOBBY

CONSTRUCTION

8. In 1867, Messrs. Hattersley & Smith, of England,
patented a dobby that was far superior to anything that had
been produced previously. Its extensive use, however, soon
brought to light certain defects that were later improved.
Yet the dobby as manufacturedr;j!94a^-i%in itsjfundamental
principles, simply a modificatjiqii of 'fbe'^ori^Sal invention,
strengthened and improved in Wdet* to4WfeS?\lie increased
demands placed on it. * j

Fig. 5 is an illustration of aJt^*qm**Mt!Jrav dobby attached,
a front view of the dobby -befng shown in tHis instance.
Fig. 6 is a rear view of the dobby alone. Reference should
also be made to Fig. 7, which shows a section through the
same dobby. As the same letters are used for the same
parts in Figs. 5, 6, and 7, it will be well to examine these
parts carefully in all the illustrations, so that a better
knowledge of the construction of the machine may be
obtained. It will be noticed from Fig. 5 that the loom itself
is very similar to the ordinary plain loom, with the dobby
attachment, the object of which is to regulate the rise and
fall of the harnesses placed at one side.

One of the harnesses s operated by the dobby is shown
in Fig. 7. To the bottom of the harness are attached har-
ness straps 5», to which are connected springs s^, which are

§60 DOBBIES ' 7

connected to castings s^ screwed to the floor. Connected to
the top of the harness are harness straps s* that pass over the
sheaves r*, r, and are attached to the wire j„ which in turn is
connected to the harness lever r. Although Fig. 7 shows
but 1 harness and 1 harness lever, it should be understood
that dobbies are constructed with different numbers of levers
up to 25 and that the number of harnesses possible to be
operated by a dobby depends on the number of harness levers
that it contains. The dobby shown in Figs. 5 and 6 con-
tains 20 levers, and it is therefore possible to operate 20 har-
nesses in a loom having this dobby attached. It should also
be noted in this connection that it is possible to operate any
other number of harnesses under 20 with the same dobby,
since it is not necessary to use all of the levers of the
dobby.

Suppose, for illustration, that instead of 1 harness and
1 lever, as shown in Fig. 7, there are 12 harnesses operated
by 12 independent levers. Then if some of these harnesses
are raised and the others lowered, a shed will be formed by
the warp yam drawn through the harnesses; and if the shuttle
is thrown across the lay through this shed and inserts a pick of
filling, these two series of yam — warp and filling — will inter-
lace with each other and form cloth. Continuing further, if
it is possible to have any of these 12 harnesses up or down
on any pick, it will be readily seen that the sheds may be
formed in a variety of different ways.

Referring again to Fig. 7, the lower end of the harness
lever r fits over a rod r, that is supported by the two side
pieces of the dobby. This rod is also shown in Fig. 6. At
the point r, a boss on the lever projects into the jack p and
is held firmly in position by lever guides ;,, Figs. 5 and 6,
that press against the two outer levers. These guides may
bjB tightened or loosened by means of setnuts.

When the jack /> is in the position shown in Fig. 7, its
upper arm rests against the top girt A» while its lower arm
rests against the bottom girt p^ If any force acts on the
top arm of the jack to draw it to the left of the position it
occupies in Fig. 7, then its lower arm resting against the

8 DOBBIES l60

bottom girt px will cause the jack to act as a lever and draw
with it the harness lever r, thus raising the harness. The
same action will take place if the lower arm of the jack is
drawn to the left while its upper arm is resting against the
top girt A-

A very important action of the jack that should be noted
in this connection is as follows: Suppose that the upper arm
has moved to the left and raised the harness, but that as this
upper arm is returning to its position against the top girt the
lower arm is being moved to the left; then, since the move-
ment of the upper arm in one direction is equal to the move-
ment of the lower arm in the other, the harness lever and
the harness that it controls will remain at its upper position.
By this means the harness may be. held. up. iqr any length
of time that may be desirecf. • "'I'liirf^ ite^'teartiid a double-lift
arrangement; a dobby capa8l'^^^!givii>^'S<A?h-a lift to the
harnesses is known as a double-lift dobby and, as will be
readily seen, produces an qper»*shed'. • •

9« Connected to the top of the jack is the top hook h,,
while a bottom hook lu is connected to the bottom of the jack.
These hooks are so shaped at their outer ends that the top
hook is capable of engagin<j with the top knife //,, while the
bottom hook is capable of engaging with the bottom knife ^„
provided that the hooks assume the necessary position. The
knives //4, lu slide back and forth in slots cast in the sides
of the dobby, and are operated, as seen in Figs, o and 6, by
two rockers //, to which they are connected by top and
bottom knife hooks //,, lu, respectively. These rockers are
held in position by a rod //,, to which they are keyed and
which rests in the two sides of the dobby. In speaking of
the knives of the dobby, they arc said to be in or out; to
be on their inward throw or on their outward throw. For
example, if the top knife is moving toward the loom it is said
to be on its inward throw, and when it has moved to the
limit of its throw in this direction it is said to be in; on the
other hand, when it is moving away from the loom it is said
to be on its outward throw, and when it has reached the limit

][

Ez:

I 'hi:

][

^iJ':<'J'. 1 ^'^*p.Y

§60

DOBBIES

of its movement in this direction it is said to be out. The
same remarks apply to the bottom knife.

The outer ends of the hooks ^„ h^ are controlled by the
dobby fingers k\ these are held in position at their inner ends
by a rod k^ that passes through them, while the outer ends
of the fingers, which are made slightly thinner, pass between
wires and rest on a bar k^ of the dobby frame. A better
idea of the shape of the fingers may be obtained by refer-
ring to Fig. 8, which gives a view of the fingers themselves.
With this style of dobby, which is known as double-index,
there are two fingers for each jack of the dobby; one finger
has a point «, on which the bottom hook rests, as shown
in Fig. 7, while the other finger has a point «, on which

a wire ;;/, Fig. 7, rests; the top hook h^ bears directly on
the upper end of this wire. Thus one finger controls one
hook independently of the other. That part of each finger
from the point where the rod /•, passes through it to its
outer end is sufficiently heavy to overbalance the inner part
together with the weight of the hook resting on it. Con-
sequently, provided that the outer ends of the fingers are not
lifted, they will rest on the bar k\. Figs. 7 and 8; when the
fingers are in this position, the points a^, a», Fig. 8, will be as
high as it is possible for them to rise. The connections to
the hooks are such that when the fingers are in this position
the outer ends of the hooks //„ //a, Fig. 7, will not engage

DOBBIES

ieo

with the knives A«, ^,. Placed directly beneath the fingers is
the grooved cylinder >&», Fig. 6. This cylinder, known as the
harness-chain cylinder, carries the harness chain, which con-
sists of wooden bars linked together at their ends. One bar
of a chain that would be used with double-index fingers is

Fio. 9

shown in Fig. 9. These bars are so shaped that they fit
readily into the grooves cut in the chain cylinder and are
flush with its surface when under the fingers. Bach bar
contains two rows of holes, each row containing
as many holes as there are levers in the dobby.
The holes in each row are so spaced that when
the bar is placed on the cylinder and brought
under the fingers, each hole in the first row will
be directly beneath a finger of the set operating
the bottom hooks, while each hole in the second
row will be directly beneath a finger of the set
operating the top hooks. If it is desired to raise
the outer end of any finger in the dobby, a peg,
which may be made either of wood or steel, is
inserted in the hole corresponding to that finger.

Fig. 10 shows a peg made of steel; its shoulder a comes
flush with the upper surface of the bar when the peg is in

Fig. 10

place. These pegs may be readily inserted or taken out by
means of a peg puller, such as is shown in Fig. 11, which
contains a square hole that fits over the middle part of the
pc<^. In a great many cases peg pullers are not used, the
pegs being inserted with a hammer and taken out with pliers.

iGO

DOBBIES

M METHOl> OF DRITIKG

10. Dobby Craiik-8haft, — Referring agfain to Figs* 5
and 6, the manner in which the different parts of the dobby
receive motion will be explained » On the end of the crank-
shaft of the loom, Fig. 5, is a gear ^ of 30 teeth that drives
' a gear ^^ of 60 teeth; the gear t/, is on a short shaft that is
known as the crank-shaft of the dobby. Connected to the
inner end of the dobby crank- shaft by means of a crank-
arm and working on a swivel is a connecting-rod, which
Kat its other end is connected to the rocker-arm f, of the
rocker k. Fig, 6. The rocker-arm and rocker together are
sometimes spoken of as theT lever. As the connecting-rod
Kls moved up and dowm by the crank-arm on the dobby
* crank-shaft, it will impart an up-and-down movement to
the rocker-arm ^,, thus giving a rocking motion to the
rocker h. Since the gear on the dobby crank-shaft con-
tains twice as many teeth as the gear on the loom crank-
shaft, these two parts are geared 2 to 1 and will bear the
same relation to each other as do the cam- and crank-shaft
of a plain loom* Consequently* the dobby crank-shaft will
make one complete revolution during every 2 picks of the
fcloom, which wil! cause the top part of the rocker h to be
" moving out on one pick and in on the next* This point
should be carefully noted when endeavoring to understand
the action of the dobby as a whole*

In some cases the rocker-arm of the dobby is connected
directly with and driven by the bottom shaft of the loom,
thus receiving the same speed with relation to the crank-
shaft as one connected in the manner described aMve.
Dobby crank-shafts are spoken of as being on their top,

I bottom, front, or back centers.
11, Cyllnaer Drive,— Referring to Fig* 5, there will be
noticed on the outer end of the dobby crank-shaft a sprocket
gear that* by means of a chain f„ drives a short side shaft f„
Figs. 5 and 6. The shaft /. carries a worm / that drives a
worm-gear /» on the cylinder shaft /*, Fig. 6, carrying the

DOBBIES

harness-chain cylinder ^,. The manner in which this worm/
drives the cylinder k^ is shown more clearly in Fig. 12.

The worm-gear/,, which has a series of projections on one
of its sides, works loosely on the cylinder shaft /*. Set-
screwed to the cylinder shaft is a clutch arrangement con-
sisting of a plate /. to which is hinged a lever /, that projects
through a slot in the plate /. and engages with one of the
projections on the worm-gear /,. The lever is kept pressed
against the worm-gear by means of the spring /,, which is loose
on the cylinder shaft, but is compressed between the lever

and the collar /«. In Fig. 12, the lever /. is shown in the posi-
tion that it assumes when thrown out of connection with the
projections on the worm-gear /,, but it should be understood
that when the cylinder is operating, the lever /« will be in
position between two of the projections on /,. So long as
the cylinder is free to rotate, the worm-gear /, imparts motion
to the cylinder shaft by means of the clutch, but in case any
obstruction iirevents the revolving of the cylinder, the
lever /„ is thrown out of connection with the projections of
the worm-gear /,; the spring t, allows this to be done readily.
The worm / is so shaped that in revolving it gives to the

§60 DOBBIES 13

cylinder an intermittent motion; this motion brings the first
row of pegs in the pattern chain under one set of fingers of
the dobby at the point «, Fig. 8. At this point the cylinder
will pause, owing to a straight part of the worm / working
in the worm-gear /,. The worm / continuing to revolve will
next turn the cylinder until the pegs in the second row of
the bar come under the other set of fingers at the point «,,
Fig. 8. At this point the cylinder is again allowed to stop.
The object of giving this pause to the cylinder is to allow
the pegs in the chain to hold up the outer ends of the fingers
for a sufficient length of time to allow the knives to engage
with those hooks that are down.

OPERATION

12. In order that the operation of the dobby as a whole
may be better understood, the action of the different parts
that takes place during one or more picks of the loom will
be explained with reference to Fig. 7. Suppose that the
different parts assume the positions shown in this illustra-
tion and that a peg in the pattern chain comes under the
finger operating the bottom hook ^,. This peg throwing
up the outer end of the finger allows the inner end, on
which the hook rests, to drop; this allows the outer
end of the hook h^ also to drop. As the dobby crank-
shaft revolves and, through the connecting-rod, operates the
rocker h, the lower arm of the rocker h in being pushed out
will carry with it the knife ^„ which will engage with the
hook //, and thus take with it the lower end of the jack p.
The upper end of the jack bearing against the girt p^ will
be fulcrumed at this point, so that as its lower end is brought
out by the action of the knife it will raise the lever r, which
is connected to the jack p at the point r,. The lever r in
being pulled outwards will, through the strap connections,
raise the harness connected to that lever. If on the next
pick it is desired that this harness be down, no peg will be
inserted in the pattern chain to operate the finger that con-
nects with the top hook A,; consequently, the knife //«, which

14 DOBBIES §60

is moving: out on this pick, will escape the hook ^„ and the
bottom knife A. in returning will allow the pull of the springs
attached to the bottom of the harness to pull the harness
down to its lowest position. This will cause the warp ends
drawn through this harness to form a part of the bottom
shed. If, on the other hand, it is desired to have this harness
remain up on the second pick, a peg is inserted in the pattern
chain to raise the outer end of the finger operating the top
hook. The outer end of the finger in being raised causes its
inner end to drop, and this motion, being imparted to the
top hook //a through the wire w, allows this hook to engage
with the top knife and be carried out on this pick; this
brings the upper arm of the jack p outwards and holds the
harness at its upper position.

VARIATIONS OF CONSTRUCTION

13. It should be understood that all dobbies are not
constructed according to the descriptions given, all of which
apply to the dobby illustrated in Figs. 5 and 6. Dobbies
as made today are of several varieties; such as posith^,
non-positive; single-lilt, double-lift: single-index, double-index.
The dubby that has been described is known as a non-
positive, double-lift, double-index dobby.

14. Positive and Noii-Posltlve. — Dobbies are said to
be positive or non-positive, according to whether they
do or do not positively control both the raising and lower-
ing of the harnesses. It will be remembered that in the
case of the dobby illustrated in Fig. 7, the dobby lever r
positively raises the harness, while springs 5, arc introduced
to lower the harness as the pull of the harness lever is taken
away. Dobbies, however, are sometimes constructed in such
a manner that the harness lever will not only lift the harness
positively, but also lower it. As this type of dobby is not
frequently met with, it will not be dealt with here.

15. l)onble-t.1ft and Sinprle-T.lft Dobbies.— Dobbies
are said to be double-lift or s1n|<le-11ft, according to

§60 DOBBIES 15

whether or not more than one part of the dobby can operate
the harness lever. By referring to Fi^f. 7, it will be Hcen
that the harness lever may be raised by either the top or the
bottom hook, these two hooks being attached to the Haine
jack and this jack operating but 1 harness lever, ('onnc-
quently, the dobby in this case is a double-lift machine. ( If,
on the other hand, the jack is operated by only a single hook,
the dobby is single-lift. In a single-lift dobby a harnesH can-
not be held up for more than 1 pick, and if a harncBB is up on
one pick and it is desired to have the same harnesH up on the
next pick it must be lowered to the bottom and again rained
to the top.' On this account, double-lift machinen can be
speeded higher without producing any more strain on the
warp yarn, since the yam has no unnecessary movement.
Single-lift machines must, of necessity, form a close shed,
while a double-lift machine ordinarily forms an open shed.
However, by the application of special mechanism, or by
making other changes, the ordinary double-lift dobby can l>e
caused to make a close shed. It has, therefore, Ittcdme
customary to consider as a single-lift machine, any dobby
that makes a close shed, and as a double-lift dobl^ any
machine that forms an open shed, irrespective of the actual
construction of the machine.

1 6. Oouble-Index and 8f nK]e'Ind<?x IHfhhten. — Dob*
bies are said to be €louble-lnd<a[ f^r 9»lnKle'lnd<fX itcc^/Tf}'
ing to whether or not thcrrc is a separate index fmztr U^r
each book. 'x.!h top and \yjXiom, It TffiYt be remen/t/tTt^l
that with the coVt/y fll-astrate/j in Fsg, 7 there is an i^ylex
finger for ea^cb ho</k of the machine, rr.aking the 'If^i^rf
C'j^zk<t<z*'\^x. If or.e r^r^z*^ coc,t'Oi>:d V/th r:.*i *fr,, drA

'■■^z^jST ^rA '.' ''-. \ 'r 'i*r ■ '\ \^/, *- x -, r«- -y •; ;-;**-*
«>f V.-v. "?.»*: •-.•> i-.l V- '•'/•• ,V/^rt i» '/►. .;. X''^ '^'^^ *■''

DOBBIES

engag:e with the knives. A bar of the pattern chain used on
such a dobby is shown in Fig. 14; it contains but a single
row of holes. With this arrangement, the driving mechanism
of the chain cylinder is so arranged that it forces a new bar

Fig. 1:J

of the pattern chain under the fingers for each pick of the
loom. The chief advantage that the double-index has over
the single-index is that with the former one bar of the. pat-
tern chain serves for 2 picks of the loom, while with the
latter, one bar serves for only 1 pick.

17. Pawl-aiul-Hattrhot Drive. — A method of driving
the harness-chain cylinder that differs from the one described
is illustrated in Fig. IT). Connected to the lower arm of the
rocker // is a casting /« that carries the pawl /, which works

Fig. 14

in the teeth of the ratchet c:ear /, on the cylinder shaft /,.
An escapement feature is also i^rovided by connecting the
pawl / to the casting: /, throu<^h the intervention of a spring /,.
In case any obstiuction prevents the cylinder from revolving

§60

DOBBIES

freely, only the strength of the spring must be overcome
when the pawl engages with the ratchet gear as the lower
end of the rocker moves in. With this drive, it is necessary
to adopt some method of holding the cylinder firmly in
position after it has been turned by the pawl. This is
accomplished by means of the roller /., which through the
action of the spring /, is held firmly against a disk /, fastened

Fig. 15

to the cylinder shaft. This disk has cut-outs in its edge,
which, being engaged by the roller, cause the chain cylinder
to be securely held in the correct position while the pegs in
the bar of the chain raise the fingers of the dobby. It should
be noted that since the lower arm of the rocker moves in only
once during every 2 picks, the pawl will turn the chain cylin-
der only once in 2 picks; consequently, this drive can be
adopted only on a double-index dobby, where one bar of

91- 23

18 DOBBIES

the pattern chain serves for 2 picks. The index fingers on
a dobby with this drive are so shaped that the fingers that
are operated by the pegs in the first row will be resting on
the pegs in this row when the bar is brought under the
fingers by the action of the pawl, and at the same time the
fingers operated by the second row of pegs in the same
bar will be resting on their pegs.

18. Ri^lit-Hand and Tjeft-Hand l>obbies. — It should
be noted that the dobby shown in Figs. 5 and 6 is con-
structed to be placed on a right-hand loom, the dobby
being placed at the opposite end from the driving end.
Dobbies are spoken of as being ri^lit-haiid or left-liand,
although there is considerable difference of opinion as to
what constitutes a right-hand or a left-hand dobby. Some
claim that the mechanism takes its name from the loom on
which it is placed, while others claim that a dobby is right-
hand or left-hand according to whether it is placed at the
right-hand or left-hand side of the loom. As the dobby is
placed at the side of the loom opposite that containing the
driving pulley, these two opinions are in direct opposition to
each other. In this Course, a dobby will be considered
right-hand or left-hand according to the position it occupies
when attached to the loom.

DOUBLE-CYLINDER DOBBY

CONSTRUCTION

19. If it is desired to weave a pattern that contains a
large number of picks in the repeat, a large number of bars
must be built for the pattern chain, since even on the double-
index dobby one bar represents only 2 picks, and when pat-
terns of several hundred picks are woven this becomes a
matter of considerable importance, as a long chain always
requires more time in being: built. Additional strain is also
placed on the dobby by the use of a long chain, since the
chain must be supported to a certain extent by the cylinder.

DOBBIES

When the pattern consists of but one weave it is difficult
to overcome this defect, but it frequently happens that a i)ut-
tern may consist of two weaves, one of which i^ repeated a
large number of times before the next weave is broujfht into
use. An illustration of this occurs in weaving handkerchiefs,
when the center of the handkerchief consists only of a plain
weave repeated a sufficient number of times to produce the
desired length, another weave is introduced for the border
(which may also be repeated) to complete the weave.

To overcome this difficulty, a dobby known as the double-

■ in

'1 1 : 1

Fir,. K

cylinder ilobby is at present largely used, which (as iu
name implies; contains two cylinders; the pa-terr* chain for
one weave is place/i on f>nf: of t'ne cy'inoVrrn. '//rxi'.fj rhe pal-
tern chair, for the other 'Avtav^ :< ;/,Hf,^A f^ri, th^: other ^jrVir,-
der. Since it is ;;-^>ss:'''>> fo v:r./J ^.if':,^,T ',j\irAf\r ^r^AirA 2l\
many tmies a.s I'r.f^H <r^, r^,*^,^f^. of ?h-»: yt^M'ifi r^forc ''rrtz^-
ging on to th^ other '-.liry^rr. ;• -.% i,^,f.^,^^'Hty *o >/,VA f/r,\j
one repeat of ^ir.ri v^^iv-t ;,-ov;/'>./: f;,^* ??,*: r.;;r.'.r/«;r of o-*r^
in one rcp«tat i\ v:;ff^-.:^.t f.o ^u'.;?oIa fif*A 'ir*;;i;f^ '.7;;r»/!<^. T:

DOBBIES

the number of bars required for one repeat of the weave is
less than the number of bars required to encircle the chain
cylinder, the weave may be repeated as many times as nec-
essary and the chain cylinder sent around a correspondingly
less number of times.

Fig. 16 shows a plan view of the driving mechanism for

Fig. it

the cylinders of a two-cylinder dobby, while Fig. 17 shows
the driving mechanism of the cylinders as viewed from the
end of the loom; one cylinder only is shown in Fig. 17, since
the two cylinders are situated one directly behind the other

§60

DOBBIES

as viewed from this position. Reference is made to both
fig:ures in the following description, the same letters applying
to the same parts in both cases.

Directly beneath the dobby fingers are placed the two
cylinders j, j,, which receive their motion by means of a
worm placed between the cylinders and fixed at the end of an
upright shaft / that derives its motion from the crank-shaft
of the loom. Working loosely on the cylinder shafts are

Fig. is

collars that carry the worm-gears /,, /, and the plates Z,, /..
The worm-gears are at all times in gear with the worm /;
consequently, these gears, together with the plates /., /„ are
revolving as long as the loom is running. Fastened to
the cylinder shafts //, u, are the plates //,, //,, to which are
attached the levers /^, //.. Between the plates //„ //, and the
levers w*, u^ are springs that tend constantly to force the

22 DOBBIES §60

levers away from their respective plates. Each plate con-
tains a cut-out into which the lever may slide; w, w^ are two
sleeves set loosely on the cylinder shafts and are in contact
with the levers 7/*, //.. The two rods x, Xt are worked by
levers that are raised and lowered by means of a chain con-
taining riscf's and sinkers; x^, x^ are projections of two levers
worked by means of the rods x, Xi,

20. Repeat Motion. — The rods x^ Xt are worked by
what is known as the repeater chain; a view of it is g^iven in
Fig. 18, ,r, Xx being the rods shown in Figs. 16 and 17. These
rods are attached at their upper ends to the levers d, df», on
each of which is placed a roller e that rests on a chain passed
around the cylinder c. This chain is made up of links, each
of which contains a high and low part; consequently, if the
link is placed on the chain in such a manner that its high
part will come under the roller e carried by the lever dy this
lever will be raised, while the low part of the same link
coming under the lever d^ will allow that lever to drop. If
the link is turned end for end so that the high part comes
under </, while the low part comes under d, the opposite effect
will result.

The repeat-chain cylinder c has on its shaft i\ a ratchet
gear c^ that is operated by a pawl a^ driven by a cam a fast-
ened to the dobby rocker //. This part of the mechanism
operates in such a manner that the pawl a^ is thrown for-
wards each time that the upper part of the dobby rocker is
thrown in; or, in other words, each time that the bottom
hooks are drawn out. A dog h, that works loosely on the
shaft r, is set under the pawl and prevents it from engaging
with the teeth of the ratchet except when the dog is lowered
by means of the wire /^ which is connected at one end to an
index finger of the dobby. When a peg is placed in the pat-
tern chain and lifts this finger, the rod b will be pushed
upwards, lowering the dog b^ and allowing the pawl a, to
drop and engage with the ratchet teeth.

§60

DOBBIES

OPERATION

21, The oiieraUon of the different mechanisms illus-
trated in Fi^s. 16, 17, and 18 is as follows: Suppose that
the cylinder s^ has been in operation and that the cylinder s
has been stationary, but that it is now desired to operate the
harness chain that is on the cylinder s. Then the cylinder ^i
must be stopped, while the cylinder j must be set in motion*
To accomplish this a link that will raise the lever d and allow
the lever d^, to drop is brought under the levers d^ (/,. As the
lever dt drops, the rod x\ also drops, releasing the pressure
of the lever Xm. on u\ and allowing a spring that is constantly
exerting a pressure on u^ to push out this lever until it

Fig, 1©

occupies the position shown in Fig* 16. This action breaks
the connection between the plates /, and n^, and consequently
stops the cylinder x,, since the worm-gear /. and the plate /.
are on a collar that works loosely on the cylinder shaft. At
the same time thai the lever d, drops, the lever d is raised;
this, raising the rod x, throws the lever x*, Fig. 17» against
the collar a', thus serving to push the lever if* through the cut-
out in the plate w„ into one of the cut-outs in the plate /,-
This action of the different parts will set the cylinder s in
operation, since the two plates i/., /» are securely locked
together, and the plate /, is receiving motion from the

24 DOBBIES

worm-gear /» while the plate //, is fastened to the cylinder
shaft. At the time that the lever lu is thrown in, a cut-out
in the plate /. should be directly opposite the cut-out in the
plate tt,. This relative position of the two plates may be
secured by loosening the check-nut /„ when the plate /, may
be turned to any desired position. After the plate has been
placed in its correct position, the check-nut should be securely
fastened.

Fig. 19 shows the kind of finger used on such a dobby. It
is a single-index finger, since it controls both the top and
bottom hooks — a^ working the bottom hook, while a wire rest-
ing in the slot a^ works the top hook. The pegs in the chain
passing around the cylinder s. Fig. 16, come under the finger
at the point a. Fig. 19, while the pegs in the chain that works
on the cylinder Sx come in contact with the finger at the
point a,; thus, if a peg acts on the finger either at the point a
or a,, its outer end will be raised, while its inner end, and
consequently the hooks in connection with it, will be lowered.

22. Suppose that it is desired to weave a pattern con-
taining 200 picks of plain weave and 50 picks of a fancy
weave, one repeat of which occupies 10 picks. The number
of bars built for each weave must be divisible into the total
number of picks for that weave and must also be an even
number. Thus, for the weave of 200 picks 10, 20, 40, etc.
bars could he built, while for the weave of oO picks, 10 bars
could be used. It will be assumed that 20 bars of the plain
weave and 10 bars of the fancy weave are to be built. In
addition to the pe^s for the weave, there is also placed in the
last bar of each chain a peg: to operate the index finger
connected to the wire rod /', Fi<j^. IS, so that each time the
harness chain makes one complete revolution the rod b will
be pushed up, thus allowing the pawl «, to engage with the
teeth of the ratchet and turn the ratchet 1 tooth.

It will be assumed that the 20 bars of plain weave are
placed on the cylinder .?, and the 10 bars of fancy on .?,. As
it is desired to obtain 200 picks of plain and 50 picks of
fancy, the chain containing the plain weave will have

§60 DOBBIES 25

to be sent around ten times, and the 10 bars of fancy will
have to be sent around five times. Since the raising of the
rod X throws the cylinder s into operation, while the lifting
of the rod Xi throws the cylinder Sx into operation, the
repeat chain to be placed on the cylinder c will contain ten
risers that will raise the lever d, and five risers that will raise
the lever d^, which gives a total of fifteen links in the repeat
chain. It should be carefully noted in this connection that a
link of the chain for the repeat cylinder contains a riser on
one end and a sinker on the other; consequently, when
a link is placed on a chain in such a manner that it will raise
one lever, it must of necessity lower the other. In the case
of this illustration it will be seen that only 30 bars of
pattern chain are built, whereas on a single-cylinder, single-
index dobby it would have required 250 bars to weave the
same pattern; the only additional work required in the case
of the double-cylinder dobby is the building of the chain for
the repeat cylinder.

BUILDING HARNESS CHAINS FOR
DOBBIES

23. The order of lifting and lowering the harnesses is
marked on design paper and is known as the c/iain draft, as
it is from this draft that the harness chain is made. Fig. 20
shows a harness chain draft for a weave.
Each row of squares running vertically
represents the order in which 1 harness
is raised and lowered, while each row
of squares running horizontally shows
what harnesses are up on each pick;
the bottom horizontal row of squares
generally indicates the first pick. The
filled-in squares show that a harness
is up, while the blank squares show
that a harness is dr)wn. Thus, by referring to Fig. 20, it
will be seen that on the first pick the first, second, third,
fourth, fifth, seventh, ninth, and eleventh harnesses are up;

i<^4

26 DOBBIES §60

consequently, the warp ends that are drawn through these
harnesses will form the top shed on this pick. It also
shows that on this pick the sixth, eighth, tenth, and twelfth
harnesses are down; consequently, the ends drawn through
these harnesses will form the bottom shed on this pick.

That the method of pegging a pattern chain from a
harness draft may be more fully understood, the draft in
Fig. 20 will be placed on a harness chain consisting of bars,
each of which contains a double row of holes in which pegs
may be inserted. A view of such a bar, which is used on a
double-index dobby, is shown in Fig. 14 and, as stated, each
row of holes represents 1 pick, while the manner of pegging
these holes determines the order of lifting the harnesses.
If it is desired to raise a lever and, consequently, a harness,
a peg is inserted in the hole corresponding to that harness;
on the other hand, if it is required -JUiat- that harness shall
be down, the hole is left blank. " • • ' , ! • '

?.M\9\' ''• :-^- " :

24. When building a; harness chain, the -first thing to
determine is the first harness and -the first l^ick, as shown on
the draft. It next becomes 'npcesiaxy'to-peg the pattern
chain in such a manner that the bar containing the first
pick will be placed on the cylinder first, while the pegs
that control the first harness must come at the front of
the loom so that the pegs will operate the first lever. When
the first harness and the first pick are not designated on the
draft, it is safe to assume that the lower left-hand comer
will give the position of these two. This is the case with
Fig. 20, and consequently the bottom pick, as shown in the
harness draft, will be placed on the bar that is first put on
the cylinder.

When the pick that is to be pegged first has been deter-
mined, it is necessary to determine on which end of the bar
the pegs operating the first harness shall be placed. This
is governed by the end of the loom on which the dobby is
placed, as a chain built for a dobby placed at the right of a
loom cannot be put on a dobby placed at the left of the loom.
It will be assumed that in this instance the chain is to be

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DOBBIES

placed on a dobby on the right of the loom; then the lever
that actuates the first harness will be on a person's left when
placing the chain on the cylinder and^ consequently, the
holes on the left-hand end of the chain will govern the first
leven Thus, it is necessary to place the bottom pick of the
harness draft on the first row of holes in the chain and also
to have the holes on the left of the chain operate the first
harness.

Fig, 21 (a) represents a harness chain built in this manner;
6 shows the first pick of the weave» while a,ai denote the
rows that will operate the first harness. It will be noticed
that tlie»^:e bars are made for a 2(>harness dobby, while the
weave occupies only 12 harnesses. In such cases the first
twelve holes are used and the rest remain blank, In this
figure the filled-in circles show where pegs have been inserted*

If the dobby were placed at the left of the loom^ as in
Fig* 5, the first row of holes, on the right-hand end of the
chain would be used for the ^rst harness* A chain pegged
for a double-index dobT5i^*placed> on the left of the loom is
shown in Fig. 21 (h), the ^ame draft being used as in
Fig. 21 (a). In Fig< 21 (<') is «howm the same weave placed
on a chain that would be useS' on a single-index dobby placed
on the right of the loom* A chain pegged for a single-index
dobby placed on the left of the loom is shown ia Fig. 21 (^),

FIXING

TIMING Al^n SETIING TIIK BINGLE-CYLINDEK

DOBBY

25, When a loom with a dobby attached is being started,
all the motions connected to the loom proper should be set
as on a plain loom before the setting of the dobby is
attempted* Although the setting of this part of a fancy
loom may seem to be a difficult problem, in reality, after it
has been carefully studied, it will present no very great

28 DOBBIES §60

obstacle. Each part of the dobby has an exact setting,
which bears a definite relation to some other part of the loom
and, if these parts are set in their proper relation to each
other, the dobby will be found to be exact in its action as a
whole. The rules for setting that are given here will be
found to apply equally well to any dobby. Later on, refer-
ences will be made to the setting and timing of the auxiliary
motions attached to the dobby, but it should be borne in
mind that the settings here given are fundamental and apply
to all cases.

26. Settlnp: the Dobby Crank-Shaft. — In case the
dobby is driven from the crank-shaft, turn the loom until its
crank-shaft is on the bottom center; keeping the loom in
this position, move the connecting-rod on the dobby until
the dobby crank-shaft is on its back center. This can be
accomplished by loosening the setscrews that hold the gear
on the end of the dobby crank-shaft. After this has been
accomplished, tighten the setscrews. When in this posi-
tion, the rockers should be perpendicular. Should they
not be in this exact position, they may be adjusted by
loosening the setnuts at the bottom of the connecting-rod
and then moving the rocker until it is in the desired posi-
tion. When the dobby is driven from the cam-shaft, place
the loom crank-shaft on its bottom center. Have the
crank to which the connecting-rod of the dobby is attached
on its back center, and adjust the rockers so that they
will be perpendicular when the different parts are in the
positions stated.

27. Settinjr the Knives. — When these adjustments
have been made, turn the loom until the bottom knife is at
its extreme inward i)osition and then set the knife about
1 inch ])ack of the notches in the hooks; turn the loom over
and set the top knife in the same manner. These adjust-
ments may be made by means of tlie adjustable hooks that
connect the knives to the rockers. If the different parts
are set in -this manner, the to]) knife will be directly over
the bottom knife when the rocker is perpendicular; both

§60 DOBBIES 29

knives will have an equal lift at this point and the harnesses
that are changing will consequently be level^ Thus, the har-
nesses that are changing are level when the crank-shaft of
the loom is on its bottom center. It should be noted that as
an open shed is being dealt with, some of the harnesses will
remain up and others down while the rest of the harnesses
are changing. Those harnesses, however, that are changing
will be level when the loom and the dobby have been set in
the manner described.

28. Settlnizr the Cylinder. — If the cylinder of the
dobby is driven by a worm-gear, this gear should be set
so that the cylinder will be brought to a pause when the
knives reach the limit of their throws. When in this posi-
tion, the chain bar should be directly under the fingers,
so that the pegs in the bar will be giving the fingers their
greatest lift.

On dobbies having two rows of pegs to each bar of the
pattern chain, the first row operates the fingers connected to
the bottom hooks. Consequently, when setting the cylinder
on such a dobby (the cylinder having the worm-drive), care
should be taken to have the bottom knife moving in and the
top knife moving out when a new bar of the pattern chain is
being forced under the fingers. This will cause the pegs in
the first row of the pattern chain to operate when the bottom
knife is in and the second row to operate on the next pick, or
when the top knife is in. This setting will result in the
correct fingers being acted on by the pegs on each pick of
the loom.

Another rule for setting the cylinder with the worm-drive
and one that applies to cither a single- or double-index dobby
is as follows: Have one of the knives as far in as it will
move. Loosen the gears that drive the cylinder and turn
the cylinder until the pegs operating the hooks for the knife
that is in are giving the fingers of the dobby their full lift.
With the cylinder in this position, turn the worm until the
straight part, or that portion that gives the pause, is operat-
ing on the worm-gear on the end of the cylinder.

30 DOBBIES

Considerable care should be taken to have the chain bar
directly under the fingers when the cylinder stops, so that
the pegs will \ih the fingers and bring down the hooks,
causing them to be caught by the knife when it starts on its
outward stroke. The missing of the hooks by the knives
will be found to be a common fault in dobbies and there-
fore should be carefully attended to.

29. Rei^ulatingr tlie Sbed. — As the same size shed
cannot be employed in all cases, several provisions are made
by which the dobby may be regulated to give a larger
or smaller shed as may be required. The crank on the
crank-shaft of the dobby contains a slot in which is fastened
the stud to which the connecting-rod is joined. By moving
this stud in, or nearer to the crank-shaft, the end of the
connecting-rod is brought nearer to the center of the circle
that it describes and the throw of the connecting-rod is
shortened; but by shortening the throw of the connecting-
rod, the throw of the knives and the lift of the harnesses are
also shortened, and a smaller shed is produced. By moving
this stud out on the crank, or farther from the crank-shaft,
the opposite effect will be produced. There is also a slot in
the arm of the rocker, to which the connecting-rod is attached
by means of a stud. By moving this stud in or out in the
slot, the lift of the knives will be lengthened or lessened,
respectively.

When the throw of the crank on the dobby has been altered
by any of these methods, it will be necessary to reset the
knives by adjusting the hooks that connect them with the
upright arm of the rocker. These hooks contain setnuts, by
means of which the distance of the knives from the upright
arm of the rocker may be regulated.

30. Ijlft of the llariiosses. — The upper parts of the
harness levers in all dobbies contain a number of notches,
and the harnesses that are attached by the harness straps
and wires to the upper notches receive a greater lift than
the harnesses connected to the lower notches, since the
upper part of the levers will move through a greater space;

DOBBIES

consequently » it is the custom to attach the back harnesses
to higher notches in order to give them a greater lift.

Special notice should be taken of the device adopted oo
some dobbies by means of which a greater lift is given to
■ the back harnesses. On these dobbies, the rocker at the
back of the dobby is made somewhat longer than the one at
the front, thus giving to that end of the knives a greater
throw, and consequently a greater lift to the back harnesses.
To accommodate the greater throw of the knives the girts
against which the jacks rest are made to slant toward the
back, thus allowing the jacks at the back of the dobby to set
farther in toward the loom than those at the front.

31. Skipping, — The fault that is probably most fre-
quently met with in connection with the dobby is that known
as sklppliiic; that is, the failure of any one harness to lift
when it should, and consequently the filling floating over the
ends drawn through that harness when, in reality, the filling
should be under (hose ends. This fault may be caused in
several ways. A peg in the pattern chain may become bent
in such a manner that, when the bar of the chain in which it
is placed conies under the fingers^ the peg instead of lifting
the finger that it should operate will pass between it and one
of the adjacent fingers.

In some cases the cylinder may be moved slightly to one
side, thus throwing the pegs out of their proper positions, in
which case some of the pegs may not lift their fingers. This
fault maybe easily remedied by loosening the setscrews that
hold the cylinder in place knd moving the cylinder until the
pegs in the pattern chain come directly under the fingers*

A short peg placed in the patletTi chain will sometimes
produce skipping, since it will not lift the finger high enough
to cause the hook to become engaged with the knife*

If for any cause one of the hooks should become bent, its
action is very apt to become uncertain, since it is liable to
become bound by the sides of the rack through which it passes.
In such a case the hook will not fall when the finger is lifted,
and consequently it will not engage with the knife. In other

32 DOBBIES §60

cases, the hook may just engage with the knife but slip off
before the harness has received its full lift and the shuttle has
passed through the shed.

In any case where skipping is noticed, the ends that are
affected should be traced from the cloth to the harnesses, in
order to ascertain through which harness those ends are
drawn. Then by carefully watching the fingers and hooks
actuating that harness, the cause of the difficulty will gener-
ally become apparent.

TIMING AND SEl^^ING THE DOUBLE-CYLINDER

DOB«Y

32. The cylinders in a double-cylinder dobby must be
stopped and started at just the right instant or mispicks will
be made in the cloth; consequently, it is quite necessary that
the different parts should be set with great care.

The worm-gear that drives the cylinders should be set in a
similar manner to that in the single-cylinder; that is, it should
be set so that the cylinder will be brought to a pause when
the knives are at the limit of their throws. The cylinders
should also be set so that the pe^s in the pattern chain will
give to the fingers a full lift when the cylinder is on the pause.
This will insure the hooks being caught by the knives as they
move outwards.

S**?. S(»ttiiijr tho CM lit ell Goiir. — When changing from
one cylinder to the other, the clutch lever about to be thrown
into ct)nnecti()n should be directly opposite one of the cut-
outs when the riser on the repeat chain conies in contact
with its lever; otherwise, the cylinder will not be turned
and no harnesses will be lifted on the first pick. These
clutch j^cars are adjustable and can be set by moving a
set nut on the q:ear so that the oi-)en space will be in a
correct position to receive the clutch lever when it is
thrown. Care should also be taken to have the roller
that holds the cyhndcr securely in iK>sition while it is not
bcin[.j: turiK'd, so i)lacc*d that when the cylinder is stopped

§60 DOBBIES 33

by the lever being withdrawn it will be in position to hold
the cylinder firmly until it is required again.

34. Setting the Repeat Motion. — One important
point should be carefully noted in relation to the double-
cylinder dobby. The pawl that operates the ratchet of the
repeat motion is worked by a cam driven by the top part
of the upright arm of the rocker; consequently, when the top
knife is moving in, a high part in the link on the repeat
chain will raise the lever and thus change the cylinder, and
on the first pick of the new weave the harnesses will be
lifted by the top knife.

The shuttle should be on the shipper side of the loom
when a change from one cylinder to the other is being made.
The rocker must be set so that the top knife will be moving
the hooks and thus raising the harnesses when the loom is
picking from the dobby side; that is, the cylinders should
start to change when the shuttle is on the shipper side, but
on the first pick of the new weave the shuttle should be
picked from the dobby side.

POWER AND SPEED

35. Since more harnesses are employed when using a
dobby, more power will be required to drive the loom than
is the case with the ordinary plain loom. The necessary
power will also depend to a certain extent on the number of
harnesses being used, but as a general rule it may be stated
that where five plain looms are taking 1 horsepower to
drive them, the same power will drive only four looms with
a dobby attached.

The speed of a loom with a dobby attached is less than
that of a plain loom, and depends on the number of har-
nesses used and on the style of weave and character of the
yarn. On some weaves it may be necessary to run the loom
as low as 140 picks per minute, while on others it is possible
to attain a speed of 180 picks. As a rule, when plain looms
have dobbies applied, the speed is reduced 10 to 20 per cent.

91 -24

LENO ATTACHMENTS

INTRODUCTION

1. When weaving fabrics in which any warp thread is
caused to turn partly around another thread or threads
while in the loom, it becomes necessary to attach special
appliances to the loom in order to give this turn to the warp
ends. The word leno has become, during recent years, a
general term applied to all classes of such cross-weaving.

In such cloths, the ends, and consequently the picks,
instead of lying in parallel lines, are twisted and pulled out
of a straight course. This is caused by some of the ends
being under the control of 2 harnesses, which can lift them
to the right or to the left of one or more other ends, thus
producing a crossing of the ends. Crossing the ends on one
pick and not crossing them on another is the means whereby
such fabrics are produced.

2. A pure, or plain, gauze fabric, the production of which
will be considered, is one in which an end of the warp is
brought upon one side of a separate end on one pick, and
on the next pick is brought up on the other side of the same
end, whereas in the ordinary plain weave the warp ends lie
parallel to each other and are alternately raised over and
depressed under the picks of filling. The gauze plan of
interweaving may be said to be the firmest that it is possible
to adopt when the amount of material used is considered.
It is impossible to make a close fabric by this method, and
frequently the gauze method of interweaving is used to
obtain in the cloth an open effect that will give to it a very
light appearance. In order to weave such fabrics, it is

For notice of copytight. see pajse imntediately following thi title Page
261

2 LENO ATTACHMENTS §61

necessary to attach special appliances to the loom; and it is
the object of this Section to deal only with these appliances
in so far as they may be considered from a mechanical
standpoint, and not to consider the designing of the many
different and elaborate leno effects that may be obtained.

Fig. 1 shows the manner in which the ends interlace in
gauze weaving; a, a, represent the 2 warp ends, while
each pick is marked in its order of interlacing. It will be

4'** Pic*
3tl »»
2d. ••
1»« o

Fig. 1

noticed that the end a is always over the pick of filling but
under the other warp end a^ where these ends cross each other;
while the end a^ is always under the pick but over the end a
between the picks, also that on the first pick a is on the left
of «, and on the second pick on the right.

A pure gauze weave, such as is shown in Fig. 1, always
repeats on 2 ends and 2 picks, since all the even-numbered
picks are alike and all the odd-numbered are alike, the same
being true with regard to the ends.

3. Doiip and Ground Ends. — The end a is known as
the doiip, doiipin^, crossing? or Avliip end, while the end
«, is known as the prround end. When examining a piece
of cloth constructed with the pure gauze weave, it is impos-
sible to distinguish definitely which are the ground ends and
which the doup ends; nor is it possible to distinguish the
face of the cloth from the back, since the interlacings of the
doup and ground ends of a pure gauze fabric are similar, and
the ground end has the same appearance if viewed on the
back of the cloth as the doup end when observed on the face,
and vice versa.

LENO ATTACHMENTS

LENO WEAV'ING ON SINGLE-LIFT, OR
CLOSE-SHED, DOBBIES

BOTTOM DOUPS

4, Hiiruesses. — In the production of gauze fabrics, two
sets of harnesses are required — one for the gfround ends
and the other for the donp ends. The harnesses for the
ETOund ends are of ordinary construction and the ends
are drawn through them in the
ordinary manner, but a special
arrangement of harnesses is pro-
vided for the doup ends. These
ends are required to be lifted on
both sides of the gfround ends
and are first drawn through the
eyes of an ordinary harness at the
back, passed beneath the ground
ends, and then drawn through
what are known as daups, which
are connected to a donp harness.
In this Section, when referring
to doups, those known as b<fiimt
daups and described in Art. 7,
should always be understood
unless otherwise mentioned.

Fm.3

5, The Btiiiidard Harness.
iFig* 2 is an illustration of the
harness known as the ^staiithira

liarnef^s. The frame of ibis harness is similar to those
on ordinary harnesses, but the heddle is of a somewhat
different construction. The standard heddle, as shown in
the illustration, contains two eyes. In some cases these

LENO ATTACHMENTS

§61

eyes are both of the same length, while at other times one
eye will be found to be considerably longer, this being a
matter of choice, but a heddle with one eye longer than the
other will not chafe the yarn forming the doup as much
as when both eyes are of the same size. When the heddles
used have eyes of unequal length, the longer eye is upper-
most in the case of bottom doups and is below the smaller
eye when using top doups.

6. The Doup Harness. — Fig. S is an illustration of a
bottoin-doiip harness frame with several doups attached.

The frame is similar to that
found on an ordinary harness,
the difference being that it car-
ries no heddles. The doup-
harness frame is the one to which
certain loops of worsted thread
are attached, and it is used in
connection with the standard har-
ness through the heddles of which
these loops are passed. A cord
is stretched tightly across the
lower part of the doup-harness
frame: this is shown, in Fig. 8
and other figures, between the
heddle bar and the bottom part
of the harness frame and close
to the latter. It is not essential
that the cord be placed in the
exact position shown; it may be
hio^her up and nearer to the
heddle bar, or it may be about i inch above the heddle bar;
in fact, the latter position is often adopted. It is secured at
each side either l)y bein<j passed through holes in the side
pieces of the harness frame and tied there, or by being
passed over hooks fixed on the inside of each side piece of
the harness frame. Sometimes the doups are merely passed
around the heddle bar and no cord is used.

Fl^..3

§61

LENO ATTACHMENTS

Threads, or doups, as they are known, are sewed to this
cord in the exact position they should occupy. When for a
fancy leno, they are spaced off in such positions as are
required by the pattern. This thread, or doup, is generally
made of worsted on account of the elasticity and wearing
qualities of that material.

7. Rigrht- and Left-Hand Doups. — Fig. 4 shows the
way, or manner, in which the standard and doup harnesses
are placed when combined in
the loom, the doup harness
being in front of the standard
harness. One end of the doup
is fastened to the cord near
the bottom frame of the doup
harness, while the other end is
passed around the heddle bar,
through the bottom eye of the
standard heddle from one side,
then back through the upper
eye and, after being passed
around both the cord and the
heddle bar, is fastened to the
cord at the same place that
the first end was fastened. In
Fig. 3 the proper method of
passing the doups around the
heddle bar of the doup-hamess
frame is shown; in Fig. 4
and other figures, the doup is simply indicated as being
attached to the cord. In case the loop formed by draw-
ing the doup through the standard heddle comes at
the right of the standard heddle, as in Fig. 4, the doup
is known as a rifcht-hand doup. When it is formed
at the left of the standard heddle, the doup is known as
a left-hand doup. No ends are drawn through the
heddle on the standard harness, but the ends a, known
as the doup ends, are drawn through the loop that is

Fjb. \

LENO ATTACHMENTS

§61

formed by the doup passing through the standard heddle,
as shown in Fig. 4,

A few very important points should be noted in connec-
tion with the manner in which these 2 harnesses are joined*
Each harness, %vhether doup or standard, has its own set of
harness straps and its own set of levers. The doup harness
may be lifted while the standard is down, but on the other
hand, if the standard is lifted, the doup harness must also be

^i^^^

^''^^

Fig. e

raised on account of the doup part of the harness passin^^

through the two eyes of the standard heddle. If the standard
should be raised without also raising the doup harness,
the doups will be strained or broken. These points should
be constantly kept in mind when studying the workings of
the leno motion,

8i Orawiuj^ Lti the Kndi?. — The next point to be con-
sidered is the manner in which the ends are drawn through

LENO ATTACHMENTS

the harnesses when producing a pure gauze weave, reference
being made to Fig. 5^ which shows a left-hand doup. The
doup end a is drawn through the back harness and then
passed through the doup, while the ground end a, is drawn
through the third harness and crossed over the doup endj
thus^ while it is on the right of the heddle on the back
harness, through which the doup end is drawn, it is on the
left of the doup* It is necessary to draw the doup end a
through the heddle of a separate harness, as shown in this
illustration ^ in order to lift the end when the doup harness
rises and the standard remains down. In this Section the
doup harness will be considered as the first, the standard
harness the second, the harness through which the ground
end is drawn the third, and the harness at the back the fourth
harness.

9* Di-awiiiitr-In Draft, — Fig* 6 ilhistrates the method
that is generally adopted to show on paper the manner of
drawing in the ends for a ieno weave > and is often used
in the mills. The standard and doup harnessed are shown
together- The harness through which the doup end is
drawn at the back is
marked fourth harness,
while the harness through
which the ground end is
drawn is marked third
harness. The crosses
show that the ends con*
nected to them are drawn
through those harnesses,
the ends being shown by
lines, The end a is to be drawn through the fourth hamt^s
and then through the doup, while the end ^, is to be drawn
through the third harness and crossed over the end a. This
method of drawing in the ends will give the same order
as that shown in Fig. 5*

If a left'band doup is used, the doup end a must
be on the left-hand side of the standard heddle, and if

d^Mamtm.

i*f^2d

Pio. fi

LENO ATTACHMENTS

iei

a right-hand doupj on the right-hand side of the stand-
ard heddle.

10. Reedf ng the Entls. — When drawing in the ends for
weaves of this class, the crossing end and the end around
which it crosses should always be drawn through the same

dent, since this crossing is produced between the standard
harness and the last pick mserted in the cloth rendering It

Fir.. »

impossible for the ends to be crossed in front of the reed if
drawn through separate dents. The reed, therefore, would
prevent the formation of the shed, and the ends of the warp

S61

LEND ATTACHMENTS

would be broken. In order to permit more space for these
ends when the crossing takes place, since the ends are also
crossed between the standard harness and the harnesses
through which the ends are drawn at the back, the 2 back
harnesses are generally placed as far back as possible, while
the doup and standard harnesses are placed as far front as

"possible; that is, the doup and standard harnesses are oper-
ated by the front levers of the dobby . while the otlier harneiises
are operated by levers near the back of the dobby,

11* CljH*riitlnii of Iluriifmii«^« — Figi*, 7 and H, which
show two views of a standard and doup h&rneBS wttli aright-
hand doitp, will t^rve to ilUistrate the method of operating
these harnesses when producing the crossing of the warp

LENO ATTACHMENTS

iGl

ends. In Fig. 7, which may be said to represent the first
pick of the weave, the standard remains down, while the

doup harness is raised* The doup end is raised by a harness
not shown in this figure but shown as the fourth harness in
Fig. 6, On this pick the doup end a is brought up on the
right-hand side of the ground end «,, which is drawn through

Fm. 10

a harness not shown in this figure but shown as the third

harness in Fig. 6.

In the other view* Fig. 8, which represents the next pick of
the weave* the standard and doup harnesses are both raised,
and as a result the end a that is drawn through the doup
harness is brought up on the left-hancl side of the ground
end a, and thus a crossing of the ends in the warp takes
place. By this means the doup end a will always be above»

§61 LENO ATTACHMENTS 11

while the ground end a, will always be below, the picks
of filling:.

Figs. 9 and 10 show two other views of the manner of
operating the harnesses; in this case the doups shown are
left-hand, since the doup end passes on the left of the
standard heddle.

In Fig. 9, the fourth harness, through which the doup
end is drawn at the back, is shown raised, thus raising the
doup end. When, however, this harness is raised, the doup
harness is also lifted, permitting the end a to be raised and
to bring with it the doup of the doup harness, which slips
through the eyes of the standard heddle. In this case the
doup end a is brought up on the left of the ground end <?,.

In Fig. 10, which represents the positions at the next pick
of the weave, the standard and doup harnesses arc both
raised, while the fourth harness is lowered, thus causing the
doup end a to be brought up on the right of the ground
end fli. In this manner the turn is made in the warp ends,
and, as a result, the ends and picks will lie in the cloth in a
manner similar to that illustrated in Fig. 1.

12. In all these illustrations, the harnesB through which
the ground end «» is drawn always remains at the bottom,
and in order to make the turn in the ends, it is necessary for
the doup end a to come down to the ground end a. at each
pick. This is the manner of operating the ends that takes
place in a single-lift dobby, where all the warp ends are
brought to the bottom of the shed at each pick. This part
of the operation will be further spoken of when dealing with
the mechanism that operates the harnesses.

The principal form of shedding mechanism used for weav-
ing lenos is the dobby. Dobbies arc spoken of either as
single-lift or double-lift machines, the general acceptation of
the term single-lift dobby being one with but one lifting
knife, or blade, the term double-lift dobby generally being
applied to a dobby equipped with two lifting knives* There
is some difference of opinion as to the exact meaning of thene
terms but the explanation given is the one usually accepted*

12 ^ LBNO ATTACHMENTS %B1

A 8ingle*lift dobby forms a close shed since all the ends
ire lowered to thQ bottom of the shed between each 2 picks.

Double-lift dobbies, as ordinarily constructed and used in
textile mills, especially cotton mills, form an open shed since
certain ends may remain up while the shed is being changed
in preparation for the next pick. However, by the applica-
tion of special mechanism or by making other changes the
ordinary double-lift dobby can be caused to make a shed,
other than an open shed.

A close-shed dobby is therefore usually understood to be
a single-lift dobby and an open-shed dobby generally infers a
double-lift dobby. In the consideration of shedding mech-
anisms for weaving leno fabrics, it is the difference in the
sheds, whether close or open or any other style of shed, that
is of importance, the question of single or double lift being
immaterial except so far as it means, or causes a closed
or an open shed. Therefore, throughout this Section the
terms close shed and open shed will be used in consider-
ing the shedding mechanism, rather than the terms single-
and double-lift.

13. WeavlnfiT Plain Clotli. — With the ends drawn
through the harnesses in the manner shown in Figs. 9 and 10,
it is possible to weave ordinary plain cloth. Although the
most practical method of weaving plain cloth is the ordinary
one in which the ends of the warp are drawn alternately
through two harnesses, each end being controlled by only
1 harness, the possibility of weaving plain cloth with the
ends drawn through the harnesses in the manner required
for weaving plain gauze is a very important advantage,
since in many fancy gauze fabrics the pattern is formed by
alternately weaving plain cloth and plain gauze as desired.
Fig. 9 shows the doup end raised by means of raising the
doup and fourth harnesses, while the ground end is lowered;
this may be considered as the first pick of a plain weave.
On the next pick, the doup, standard, and fourth harnesses
will remain down, while the third harness, through which the
ground end is drawn will be raised, thus causing that end to

5NO ATTACHMENTS

float over the pick of filling. The position of the harnesses
for this pick is shown in Fig. 11. where ti shows the position
of the doup end and at shows the position of the ground
end. On the next pick, the harnesses resume the position
shown in Fig. 9 and the doup end floats over the pick of fill-

fm. It

tng:, while the ground end is underneath. The next, or fourth,
pick is similar to the second, shown in Fig. llj consequently,
plain cloth will thus be woven.

Plain cloth may also be produced by raising the hamessei
as shown in Fig- 10 on one pick, and on the next pick raising
them as shown in Fig. IL This method of lifting the har-
nesses will produce plain cloth, but is not as satisfactory as
the former, due to the additional strain brought on the ends

14 LENO ATTACHMENTS §61

when raised as shown in Fig. 10. On this account, when
doup ends are used in weaving plain cloth, the first method
explained is always employed.

14, The Slackener. — When the standard and doup har-
nesses are both raised and the harness through which the
doup end is drawn at the back remains down, as shown in
Fig. 10, considerable strain is brought on the doup end.
This will be perfectly clear from studying the illustration.
Consequently, to prevent the breaking of the ends, some
arrangement must be employed to ease the doup end and at
the same time keep it tight enough to prevent any slack yam.

This is generally accomplished by using an attachment
known as a slackener or enser, which contains a rod over
which all the doup ends pass. Such an arrangement is
shown in Fig. 12; the ground ends a, pass from the warp
beam c over the whip roll c^ of the loom, while the doup ends
a pass from the beam over a rod d supported at each end by
an arm d^, attached to the shaft d^ to which a lever ^,, is also
attached. Connected to the end of this lever is a harness
strap d^ fastened to the back lever of the dobby and con-
sequently raised by that lever, while the spring d. serves to
pull the lever back into position when it is released by the
action of the harness lever.

The operation of this mechanism is as follows: When-
ever the doup and standard harnesses are raised and the
harness at the back, through which the doup end is drawn,
remains down, that lever of the dobby to which the slackener
is connected must be raised, thus raising the lever d^. When
this lever is raised, the rod d will be drawn in, thus permit-
ting the doup ends to become slack; but it must be under-
stood that this looseness of the ends must be no more
than what will be taken up by the action of the doup and
standard harnesses rising together. This will be further
considered when dealing with the settings of the dobby for
leno work.

In most cases when weaving leno fabrics, it is necessary
to place all the doup ends on a separate beam on account of

§61

LENO ATTACHMENTS

Fig. 12

ill - 25

18 LENO ATTACHMENTS §61

the greater contraction of these ends due to their being
pulled out of a straight line, but in a pure gauze consisting
of but two ends, the contraction of both will be about equal;
consequently, only one beam is necessary, although even in
this case it is advisable to place the doup ends on a separate
beam in order to reduce as much as possible the strain and
wear on both the doups and the doup ends.

Figs. 13 and 14 illustrate two successive picks of a pure
gauze weave, showing the beam, together with the whip roll
and slackener rod, also the position of the slackener during
both picks. In these figures, c is the beam from which the
ground end a^ passes over the whip roll Cx and through the
third harness. The doup end a passes from the beam c over
the slackener rod d^ through the back harness, and then
through the doup. The lease rods are shown' in these
figures, but, as they do not affect the weave, they will not
be considered.

In Fig. 13, the doup harness and the back harness, through
which the doup end is drawn, are both raised, thus bringing
the doup end up on the right of the ground end «», this being
a right-hand doup. In this case the slackener rod d is some
distance back, this being its ordinary position.

On the next pick, as shown in Fig. 14, the doup and
standard are both raised, while the harness at the back,
through which the doup end is drawn, remains down. In
this case a longer length of the doup end is required, and,
consequently, the slackener rod d is moved in, as shown in
the illustration, thus permitting this operation of the
harnesses to take place without any undue strain being
brought to bear on the warp ends. The manner of thus
bringing the slackener rod in closer to the loom was
explained in connection with Fig. 12.

15, The Harness Chuiii. — Before building a harness
chain that will produce a pure j^auze weave, the following
points should be considered: (1) When the doup harness is
raised and the standard is lowered, the back harness, through
which the doup end is drawn, must always be raised, in order

§61

LENO ATTACHMENTS

to bring up the doiip end. (2) When the donp and standard
are both raised, the back harness, through which the doup
end is drawn, must always be lowered* in order to permit
the crossing of the ends. (3) The harness through which
the ground end is drawn is never raised, (4) When the
doup and standard are both raised, the lever that actuates
the slackener rod must always be lifted, in order to relieve the
doup ends> It should be remembered that these points refer
to a pure gauze weave on a close-shed dobby, using bottom
doups. Exceptions to these will be noted later.

Fig. 15 shows the harness-chain draft that would be used
to produce a pure gau^e weave with the ends drawn in as
shown in Figs* 13 and 14. Four picks of the weave are shown,
although the weave repeats on 2 picks, since the third pick is
ejcactly like the first and the fourth
like the second- The picks are
marked in their order, and it is
clearly shown which harness each
row of pegs operates. The filled-in
squares represent levers raised and,
consequently, harnesses and ends
raised, while blanks represent levers,
harnesses, and, consequently, ends
lowered. By comparing the first and second picks of the
harness chain, or Fig. 15 with Figs. 13 and 14» they will be
found to correspond. In Fig. 13, the doup and back har-
nesses are raised, while the others are down; therefore, in
Fig. 15, on the first pick, marks are placed in the squares
representing the doup and back harnesses, while the others
are left blank. In this instance the slackener is not raised;
consequently, the lever of the dobby that actuates the lever
of the slackener will remain down and the square will be
left blank, as is the case in Fig. 15.

On the next pick, the doup and standard harnesses are
raised, the other harnesses remaining down; consequently,
in Fig, 15, on the second pick, marks are placed in the
squares that correspond to the standard and doup harnesses,
the others being left blank.

!<>< PUfkM \ I I II

|i ill

riG. 15

20 LBNO ATTACHMENTS SBl

When the standard and doup harnesses are both raised, it is
necessary also to raise the slackener; consequently, a mark
is placed in the square that corresponds to the slackener for
that pick. This completes the weave, since the third and
fourth picks are simply repeats of ,the first and second.
Thus, with Pifif. 15 as a harness-chain draft, and with the
ends drawn in the harnesses as shown in Fifi^s. 13 and 14, a
pure gauze cloth similar to Fig. 1 will be woven.

TOP DOUPS
' 16. Distinction Between Top and Bottom I>oap8.

Two methods of weaving with doup harnesses are in com-
mon use in producing leno fabrics. When the doup is placed
at the bottom of the harness frame, similar to those previ-
ously illustrated, it is known as a bottom doup; frequently,
however, it is placed at the top of the harness frame, in which
case it is known as a top doup. When bottom doups are
used, the cloth will be woven with the wrong side upper-
most in the loom, the right side of the cloth being uppermost
when top doups are used. This is only noticeable in
lenos other than pure gauze, since both sides of this
cloth are alike. Although bottom doups are in general use,
the top doups possess some advantages, the principal ones
being that the cloth is right side up when being woven
and any defects in the weaving can easily be detected.
Broken top doups are also much easier to repair than broken
bottom doups.

When weaving a pure gauze cloth, bottom doups are almost
always used, since both sides of the cloth are similar. In
certain forms of leno, however, better results are obtained
by using top doups, and, since a somewhat different arrange-
ment must be adopted in these cases a short description of
weaving with this method is given.

With bottom doups, it is possible to raise the doup har-
ness without lifting the standard, but when the standard is
raised, it is necessary also to raise the doup harness. With
the top doup, however, this condition is reversed; that is,

^§61

LENO ATTACHMENTS

the standard harness may be lifted without raising the doup
harness, but it is not possible to raise the doup harness with-
out at the same time lifting the standard harness. Again it
will be noticed that with the bottom doup, the ground end
was crossed over the doup end in being drawn through the
harnesses^ whereas in the case of the top doup, the ground
end is crossed under the doup end.

When dealing with top doups it is necessary to keep in

mind the following important points* a pure gauze weave
being understood in this case as well as in all former cases:
(1) The ground end is lifted at each pick. (2) When the'
standard harness is lifted, the doup and back harnesses
remain at. the bottom. (^) When the doup and standard
harnesses both remain down, the back harness through which
the doup end is drawn, is lifted. (4) When the harnesses
are lifted in the manner described in (3), the harness chain
must always be pegged to work the slackener.

LENO ATTACHMENTS

17. Drawing In, — Fi^s. 16, 17, and 18 give three views

of a left-batid top-doup arrangement. The doiip end is drawn
through the fourth, or back, harness and passes through the
loop of the doup harness, while the i^round end passes to
the right of the heddle of the back harness, crosses beneath
the doup end I and then passes to the left of the standard
heddle, these two ends being then drawn in the same dent

Ft<s. 17

Fig. 17 shows a view of the first pick of a gauze weave,
top doups being used; in this instance the ground harness
together with the standard is lifted, while the doup and back
harnesses remain lowered. On the next pick, shown in
Fig, 18, the back harness, together with the ground harness,
is raisedf while the doup and standard harnesses remain

1 61

LEND ATTACHMENTS

down, thus making a crossing of the ends, as is shown in
the illustration. On this last pick, the slackener rod should
be brought in, thus relieving the yarn and permitting the
crossing of the ends without any undue strain.

18. Tlie Harness Chain, — Fig, 19 shows the harness-
chain draft required to operate the harnesses in the manner

iown in Figs. 17 and 18* With the harness chain built in
^this manner, the standard and ground harncs?%eii will be lifted
on the Erst pick, since the filled blanks^ represent hameitaies
lifted; this corresponds with Fig. 17, which representj the
first pick of the weave* On the second pick, as shown in
Fig. 19, the ground and back harnesses are lifted together
with the lever operating the slackener; this corresiiofids to

LBNO ATTACHMENTS

S61

Fig. 18, which shows the arrangement of the hamesaes for

the second pick.
By comparing Fig. 15, which shows the chain draft when
using bottom donps, with Fig. 19,
which is the chain draft for top
doups, it will be noticed that the
harnesses that are 'lifted on any pick
in Pig. 15 are lowered on that pick
in Fig. 19, the lowering and raising
of the harnesses being exactly
opposite to each other. The lever
of the slackener, however, is lifted

on the same pick in both cases, it being necessary thus

to relieve the yam whenever the crossing of the ends

takes place.

Pio.19

SETTINGS

19. In all cases so far referred to, the references have
been to harnesses operated by a single-lift dobby. It will
not be out of place to make a few references to the timing
and adjustment settings of the harnesses necessary to obtain

good results when weaving a pure gauze fabric.

The lifting of every harness and also the slackener must
be timed accurately in order that one may work in harmony
with the other. The slackener must be lifted just high
enough to let off the required amount of warp at the time of
crossing and exactly on time with the standard and doup.
The standard and doup must be kept well together in order
to prevent the doup from doubling up into the warp, which
is liable to result in the ends being broken in addition to
producing bad shedding and rapidly wearing out the doups.

With bottom doups, the doups must be kept well down, a
little below the eyes of the ordinary harnesses, while with the
top doups, they should be a little higher than the eyes on the
rest of the harnesses. When bottom doups are being used,
they should not lift any higher than is absolutely necessary;
otherwise, they will become entangled in the warp ends.

§61 LENO ATTACHMENTS 25

Care should be taken to have both the doup and standard
harnesses level and so set that the loop will not be too tight
nor too slack at the point where it passes through the heddle
eyes on the standard harness.

If the harnesses are set so that the bottom doups lift
higher than the standard when both are raised, the doups
will be pulled through the eyes of the standard. On the
other hand, if the harnesses are so set that the doup harness
does not lift as high as the standard, there will be an undue
strain on the doups, which will be very liable to result in
their breaking.

Care should be taken that the slackener does not allow
the doup ends to become looser than is necessary to prevent
too great a strain being placed on the yarn.

LENO WEAVING ON DOUBLE-LIFT,
OR OPEN-SHED, DOBBIES

20. In order that the ends of the warp may make a turn
such as is required in weaving gauze, it is absolutely neces-
sary that those ends that are to make the turn shall become
level before the crossing takes place. When weaving gauze
fabrics on a close-shed dobby, this of course does not need
to be considered, since after each pick all the warp ends are
brought level at the bottom shed. When, however, the cloth
is to be woven on an open-shed dobby, this point becomes
more important, since on this style of dobby only those
ends are lowered from the top shed that are required to be
at the bottom on the next pick, while only those ends are
raised that were at the bottom and are required to form a
part of the top shed on the next pick.

Thus, in weaving a pure gauze fabric on an open-shed
dobby, there will be found this difficulty to overcome;
namely, two sets of ends, one being at the top and the other
at the bottom, which must be made to meet after each pick
of filling is inserted and then resume their former positions.
Moreover, this must be accomplished on a loom in which

26 LENO ATTACHMENTS |61

only those ends are moved from the top and bottom sheds
that are required to change their positions on that pick.

Formerly it was thous:ht impossible to weave a pure sfauxe
on an open-shed machine, and, in fact, the more complicated
leno weaves will be found to weave better on a close-
shed dobby; yet, during recent years, motions have been
applied to the double-lift dobby by means of which very
intricate patterns may be woven successfully on a loom with
this kind of a shedding motion. In describing this mech-
anism, bottom doups will be understood as being used.

As previously stated, there are two sets of ends that must
be dealt with when considering a gauze weave on an open-
shed dobby, these being as follows: (1) ,The ends that are
drawn through one of the back harnesses and known as the
ground ends; these are the ends that are always under the
filling. (2) The ends that are drawn through the doups
and known as the doup ends; these are the ends that are
always over the filling.

The manner in which these ends are operated on an open-
shed dobby is to bring the ground ends from the bottom
almost to the center of the shed and back again to the bottom
while the doup ends are brought- from the top to the center
of the shed and back again to the top, this operation being
performed in the same period of time that it takes an end to
move from the bottom to the top shed or vice versa. With
this arrangement, the crossing of the ends will take place
when the ends are near the center of the shed instead of at
the bottom as is the case in a single-lift dobby.

21. The Jumper. — Two mechanisms are applied to the
double-lift dobby in order to accomplish this result, one of
which operates the harness through which the ground ends
are drawn, while the other operates the doup harness.
The mechanism operating the ground harness is known as
a Jumper. Its object is to bring the ground ends from
the bottom to the center of the shed, where the turn is
made, and then to allow the harness again to resume its posi-
tion at the bottom, this operation taking place in the same

§61

LEND ATTACHMENTS

length of time that it takes the dobby to form the shed.

I There are several motions that will accomplish this object,
!

one of which is described here* Fig. 20 is an illustration of
a dobby with a jumper arrangeinent attached, while Fig. 21

LBNO ATTACHMENTS

S61

shows the jtimper, together with the dobby lever to wUdi
the ground harness is attached.

Referring to these figures, e is the dobby rocker, to which

is attached an arm ^i. Connected to this arm is a rod r. that,

at its other end, is connected to a togglejoint ^. hinged at ^«.

• This togglejoint is connected to the frame of the dobby at /,

wh*le at its other end it is connected to an arm g attached

fcC'^m

Fig. 21

to the shaft .^,. Fastened to this shaft, by means of a
setscrew, is the segment //. Fastened to the top of* the
segment, by means of a screw, is a strap //» that is connected
to a wire rod h^ attached to a loop ^3, through which the
dobby lever/ passes. The loop must be at least half as long
as the depth of the shed formed by the dobby. although
it may be longer than, this distance without in any way

§61 LENO ATTACHMENTS 29

interfering with its proper action. When gauze is beingf
woven, the dobby lever does not act on the harness in any
manner, but the segment, acting through the loop, performs
the lifting of the harness, the slot in the loop allowing this
to be done without interfering with the lever. Sometimes,
as shown in Fig. 21, a spring is attached at one end to the
dobby lever j and to the upper part of the loom framing at
the other end by means of a cord or strap. This keeps the
dobby lever in place when the jumper is in operation.

22. The action of the whole mechanism is as follows:
Motion is given to the dobby rocker e by means of a con-
necting-rod, which connects with the rocker at the point /,
this motion being such that the top arm of the rocker will be
out on one pick, while at the next pick the bottom arm of
the rocker assumes the outward position. Motion will be
imparted to the arm ^, in such a manner that it will move
up and down, being up when the bottom knife is out and
down when the top knife is out, the latter being the position
shown in Fig. 21, while the former is the position shown in
Fig. 20.

Starting with the position shown in Fig. 21, as the rocker
is moved by the connecting-rod the arm e^ will be moved up,
thereby pushing up the rod ^„ which in turn will act on the
togglejoint ^,. This action will push the arm g outwards,
since / is fixed. As the arm g is pushed out it will turn the
shaft gx, which motion being imparted to the segment // will
cause the harness to be lifted.

When the rocker e has reached a vertical position, the
rod r„ togglejoint r,, and arm g will assume the positions
shown by the dotted lines, thus pushing back the segment h
so that the harness will be lifted half the space of the shed.
As the rod e^ continues to be lifted by the arm ^, it will push
^, still higher, but it should be noticed that after e^, has passed
the central position, as shown by the dotted lines, instead of
pushing the segment h from the loom, it commences to bring
it to its former position until the harness is again at its low-
est position. This position is shown in Fig. 20.

80 LBNO ATTACHMENTS SSl

Following the action of these different parts on the next
pick, or while the top knife is moving oat, the segment k
will receive the same motion, although in this instance the
rod e, is moving down instead of up. Consequently, the ends
drawn through the harness worked by the jumper will be
lifted to the center of the shed and then lowered while one
knife is moving out and the other in. In this manner the
desired half lift is obtained for the ground ends.

23. WeaTlngr Plain Cloth. — Reference has previously

been made to the fact that it is possible to weave plain doth
with a gauze arrangement on a single-lift dobby. It is also
possible to weave plain cloth with doup and standard
harnesses on a double-lift dobby.

Referring again to Fig. 21, the lever/ is in close contact
with the forward part of the loop ^,. If it is desired to give
to the harness its full lift, as would be required in weaving
plain, it is only necessary to insert a peg in the pattern
chain, which will give to the lever its full lift; the lever in
rising will come in contact with the loop, thus raising the
harness to the top of the shed.

In weaving a pure gauze fabric, however, the lever / is left
out of consideration entirely, since the jumper gives to the
harness all the motion that is required to produce the weave.

24. Tbe Yoke. — It is necessary next to consider the
motion by means of which the doup end is brought from
the top to the center of the shed to meet the ground end
and then returned. When weaving a true gauze the doup
harness is raised on one pick without the standard, and on
the next pick the doup and standard harnesses are raised
together. This point should be continually borne in mind
when considering the device applied to the standard and
doup harnesses of a double-lift dobby. Fig. 22 shows a
view of this device, which is known as the yoke.

When weaving a true gauze fabric on a double-lift dobby,
the standard harness is attached to the second lever of the
dobby in the manner common to all regular harnesses. To
the doup harness are attached the regular harness straps.

§61 LENO ATTACHMENTS 81

but these straps, instead of being: attached to a loop that
slips over the lever, are connected to a point «, on the yoke
«, shown in Fig. 22. The hook «» of the yoke fits into a
notch in the first lever of the dobby and the springs
attached to the bottom of the harness keep it firmly in place.
To illustrate the action of the yoke, the position of the
mechanism during two picks will be considered, the doup
harness being raised without the standard on the first pick,
while both the doup and the standard harnesses will be lifted
on the second. On the first pick, the first lever of the dobby
will be lifted, which, catching in the hook f/i, will raise the
doup harness. On this pick the second lever will be down,
and, consequently, the standard harness will be lowered. On
the second pick the harness chain will be pegged to lower
the first lever and raise the second. The action of the yoke

Pio. 32

during the lowering of the first harness and the lifting of
the second should be carefully noted. As the first lever is
dropping, the yoke and, consequently, the doup harness will
drop with it, the springs on the bottom of the harness keep-
ing the yoke firmly pressed against the dobby lever. When,
however, the first lever reaches the central part of its drop it
will pass the second lever, which is rising and bringing up the
standard harness. At this point the second lever will catch
in the hook w, of the yoke and thus carry the yoke back to
the full lift of the lever, so that, although the first lever dur-
ing this pick drops to its lowest point, the yoke and, conse-
quently, the doup harness will only drop half way, when it is
caught and carried back by the second lever. Thus, the doup
harness, which was at the top, will drop half way, when it
will meet and be carried back with the standard harness,
which was down on the previous pick and is now being lifted.

91— »

82 LBNO ATTACHMENTS iU

This completes 2 picks of the weave, bat, in order fully to
understand the mechanism, its action for the next pick will
be considered. The standard must be lowered on the next
pick, while the doup harness must be dropped half the
distance and then brougfht back ac:ain. In order to accom-
plish this, the pattern chain is pec:c:ed to raise the first lever
and drop the second. The action of the levers for tliis pick
will be found to be very similar to their action during the
previous pick, with the exception that in this case it is the
second lever that is dropping: and the first rising. As
the second lever is dropping, it will cause the standard and
doup harnesses to be lowered, but when the second lever
has reached a point that is half of its drop it will pass the
first lever, which is rising. As these two levers pass eadi
other, the first lever will catch in the hook Ui of the yoke
and thus carry the yoke, together with the doup harness, back
to its full lift, while the standard harness is dropped to its
lowest point. Thus, during the time that the standard
harness is being carried from its lowest to its highest posi-
tion, the doup harness is being lowered from the top to the
center of the shed and then carried back again, and also
while the standard harness is being lowered from its highest
to its lowest position, the doup harness is being brought to
the center of the shed and then raised again. In both these
cases, the doup harness will occupy the same length of time
in changing that is taken by the standard harness in chan-
ging from one position to another.

By the use of the jumper and yoke the necessary motions
are given to both the ground and doup ends; that is, the
ground end is brought from the bottom to the center of
the shed, while the doup end is brought from the top to the
center of the shed. The turning of the ends around each
other is made while they are at this central position and then
they are returned to their original positions; that is, the
ground end goes to the bottom, while the doup end goes to
the top of the shed.

Since this movement of the separate ends occupies the
same length of time that is required in forming the regular

§61

LENO ATTACHMENTS

Z'd

^
^

^
^
k
^
»

shed, it is possible to run a double-lift dobby with leno
motion attached at as high a rate of speed as is possible
without the leno motion, although when wearing leno
patterns it is better to reduce the speed of the loom some-
what. As was stated previously, some leno patterns are
better woven on a close-shed machine, but these are only the
more intricate ones, and in most cases the double-lift dobby
with the leno motions attached will answer all purposes, A
double-lift dobby can be conv^erted into a sing^le-lift dobby. as
far as its operation is concerned, by changing the gearing so
as to drive the lifting knives twice as fast» and pegging the
pattern chain for one knife only. The other knife, doing no
work, is counterbalanced by a number of springs.

One disadvantage of the jumper is its positive action; that
is, the harness to which the jumper is attached is forced to
rise half the space of the shed and then be lowered on each
pick* In the case of leno weaves where a turn of the ends
is not required at each pick, this is an unnecessary motion
and, consequently, will put more strain on the ends drawn
through that harness than is absolutely necessary. Numerous
inventions have been made to raise the jumper harness only
when required, but as yet none have proved practical,

25, The HariiesB Clinlii. — It is necessary in this con-
nection to consider the method of pegging the harness chain
for a leno cloth that is to be woven on a double-lift dobby
with leno attachments such as have just been described. As
in previous examples, the chain illustrated will be one that
will give a pure gauze weave; that is, a weave in which a
turning of the ends takes place after each pick. In this case, as
well as in former instances, the several points in connection
with leno weaving should be carefully noied; that is, that on
one pick the doup and back harnesses will be up, while on the
next pick the doup and standard harnesses will be raised and
the back harness will be down; also, that when the doup and
standard are both raised, the slackener must let the ends
loose. In this case an additional motion is brought into use,
namely, the jumper, but since this motion is automatic^ it

LBNO ATTACHMBNT8

!«

needs no attention when making a harness diain; the hooks
that actuate the jumper harness are generally tied np in such a
manner that there will be no liability of their being can^
by the knives.

Fig. 23 shows a harness-chain draft that will give the
weave previously described. Although the weave is com-
plete on 2 picks, 4 picks, or two repeats, are given. Bach
harness and also each pick is marked so that the workings
may be readily understood. On the first pick, the first lever
and the lever actuating the harness through which the dottp
end is drawn at the back are raised, thus bringing up the
doup end. On the next pick, the lever operating the stand-
ard harness, or the second lever, is
raised while the first lever is lowered.
This action of the levers will lower
the doup harness half the space of
the shed, when it will meet and be
carried back with the standard har-
ness. Thus, on this pick the doup
and standard harnesses are raised
while the back harness, through
which the doup end is drawn, is
lowered. The slackener lever is also raised on this pick,
thus letting the doup ends loose.

On the third pick, which is a repetition of the first, the first
lever is raised and also the lever that works the harness
carrying the doup end at the back. On this pick, the first
lever in rising meets the lever actuating the standard har-
ness, which is dropping, at a point half the distance of their
rise and fall, and, as the first lever is passing the second, it
catches and carries back the yoke and consequently the doup
harness. In the chain draft shown in Fig. 23, the spaces
corresponding to the ground harness are left blank, since
the harness lever has nothing to do with the raising or low-
ering of this harness. The reference letter V shows that the
doup and standard harnesses are to be connected by a yoke,
while J indicates that the ground harness is to be operated
by a jumper.

r Jr

1 '4

Pio. 28

S61 LENO ATTACHMENTS

FIXING

26. When weaving: g^anze or leno fabrics, care should be
taken in setting the difiEerent parts, as it is very essential in
this class of work that all the separate motions are exactly
adjusted and work in nnison with one another.

27. Begrulatlngr tlie Shed. — ^The shed should be care-
fully resftdated, since this governs, to a great extent, the
quality of the product of the loom. When weaving lenos,
as small a shed as possible should be used since considerable
additional strain is put on the yam due to the crossing of the
ends, which takes place back of the reed. To further offset
this strain, the slackener should be carefully set. In setting
the slackener, see that the lever is lifted just high enough to
allow the ends to receive the half turn without any additional
strain. Care should be taken, however, that no mote slack
is let off than is absolutely necessary to relieve the ends.
An important point to be noted in connection with the
slackener is that it is not desired to relieve the doup ends
until the crossing of the ends takes place, which occurs at
the center of the shed; consequently, the harnesses can move
half the space of the shed before it is necessary for the
slackener to operate. If the strap that connects the dobby
lever to the slackener were tight, the slackener would com-
mence to lift as soon as the harnesses. To prevent this, the
strap is made slightly longer than is required to extend
from the dobby lever to the arm of the slackener, and any
slack in the strap is taken up by the spring, as shown in
Fig. 12. As the lever of the dobby commences to lift, the
spring will be extended until the slack in the strap is taken
up, when the arm of the slackener will be raised. This is so
regulated that the slackener will not commence to move in
until the dobby lever has moved through about half the dis-
tance it travels. When the slackener is not operating, the

86 LENO ATTACHMENTS §61

rod dx rests on a bracket d^^ thus preventing the spring on
the strap </« from being strained.

28. Tlie Yoke. — The yoke should not be placed too
high on the dobby levers, since this will result in the doup
harness being lifted too high and putting additional strain on
both the ends and doups. They should be lifted just high
enough to form the shed and no more.

29. The Jumper. — The principal point to be consid-
ered when setting the jumper is to see that it does not lift
the harness any higher than the center of the shed and, on
the other hand, does not drop it any lower than the rest of the
harnesses forming the bottom shed. In setting this motion,
place the different parts in the position shown in Fig. 21;
then the connecting-rod e, will be down and the segment h
will be at its inner throw. When in this position, the con-
nections with the ground harness should be tight and the
outer end of the loop h^ just touching the harness lever, as
shown in Fig. 21. This may be regulated by loosening the
setscrew that fastens the segment to the shaft gx and placing
the segment in any desired position. When this has been
set, turn the loom over until the connecting-rod ^, is at its
highest position and see that the loop h^ in the strap is in the
same position as when the connecting-rod e^ was at its lowest
position. If it should not be the same, it may be regulated
by the nuts shown at the bottom of the connecting-rod.

As previously stated, when the connecting-rod is at its
lowest position and also when at its highest, the harness is
down; but when the connecting-rod is half way between
these two points, the harness is raised half the space of
the shed.

If the lift that the segment imparts to the harness is not
sufficient to raise the harness to the center of the shed, it
may be regulated by moving the connecting-rod in the slot
where it is joined to the togglejoint e^. By moving the con-
necting-rod toward the dobby levers, a greater lift is obtained,
and by moving the rod toward the segment, a shorter lift
results.

§61 LENO ATTACHMENTS 37

DIFFBRSNCB BBTWBEN AMERICAN Aia> KUBOPBAN
METHODS

30. The method of drawing: in the epds that has been
described, and which is universally adopted in America, dif-
fers somewhat from that used in other countries. In order
to avoid confusion, all the descriptions that have been given
apply to one standard method, but in Germany and some
other countries, the method in which the ends are drawn in
when weaving lenos is to have the doup end drawn through
the third harness before passing through the doup, while the
grotmd end is drawn through the fourth harness.

This is exactly the reverse of the American method, in
which the doup end is drawn through the back harness and
the ground end through the third harness. With this method,
however, the same result is obtained, the only difference
being that in one case the doup end has a little larger space
between the two harnesses through which it is drawn, and,
since it is this end that stands the strain of the crossing, it
would appear that the more space given to it, the easier
would be its action.

By referring to Fig. 6 the slight difference that would exist
should a be drawn through the third harness and a, through
the fourth will be readily noticed. It will also be seen that
this would not in any way interfere with the crossing of the
ends, provided of course that these 2 back harnesses are
operated in such a manner as to meet the needs of the ends
drawn through them.

BOX MOTIONS

J€a

INTRODUCTION

1* When it is desired to weave a cloth in which it is nec-
essary to place more than one kind of filling, some method
of inserting the filling: must be employed that differs very
materially from that found on a loom that carries only one
shuttle and contains but one hoK at each end of the lay.
Looms constructed for this class of work are known as box
looms, though in the cotton trade they are frequently called
l^n^ham loomii«

The principle on which these looms are constructed is that
of having at one or both ends of the loom a number of boxes,
which are generally operated by levers and other suitable
mechanism that will bring the bottom of the desired box in
line with the race plate of the loom and thus allow the picker
to act 00 the shuttle contained in that box. By this means,
several shuttles, each containing a different kind or color
of filling, can be operated, and the one to be used at any
given time selected automatically.

Several attempts were made to adapt the power loom to
the production of checked and other fabrics requiring more
than one kind of filling before a successful motion was
obtained. At the present time, however, all methods of
operating the boxes on a box loom are based on one of two
leading principles of governing shuttles; these are known as
the drop- box and revolTlng-box motlouf^. The drop

»x was invented and applied to the hand loom about 1760,
while the revolving-box motion, as applied to power looms,
was invented in 1843. Both of these motions are now found

J^ notice of mp^ri£hi, sat ^agi immoimUt^ following lA* iti^ pogi

2 BOX MOTIONS §62

in considerable variety of detail, but the revolving-box motion
has not met with favor in the United States; in fact, it may
be said that the drop-box motion is universally adopted in
America. On this account this motion alone will be dealt
with, and it should be understood that all mention of box
looms refers to the drop box as applied to power looms.

In speaking of box looms, the number of boxes is designated
by the number of boxes at each end of the lay with a multi-
plication sign between; thus, if a loom has four boxes on
one end and one on the other, it is known as a 4 X 1 box
loom; if it contains four boxes on each end, it is kno^^n
as a 4 X 4 box loom. On looms weaving cotton goods,
the drop boxes are generally placed only at one end of the
loom. The number of shuttles that can be operated in a
box loom is one less thap )h^;' tqtal nainiber of boxes;
thus, six is the largest nuajl^Qr. pf shuttle^ that can be run
in a 6 X 1 loom; folir in a 4 X 1 loorri;"t\Vo ;n a 2 X 1 loom;
etc. The statements ipad,e in the following pages should
be accepted as referring to- a 4 X..J..diu)p*-box loom.

CROMPTON 4X1 BOX IMOTION

CONSTRUCTION AND OPERATION

2. Connection of Picker Stick at Box End. — Fig. 1
shows one side of a Crompton loom with the box mechanism
for a 4 X 1 box motion. The boxes a are arranged directly
over one another, and are so connected to the end of the
lay that they may be readily moved up or down without
offering much resistance to the motive power of the loom.
As the boxes receive an up-and-down motion while the
picker receives a horizontal motion, some means must be
provided by which the picker may be brought out of con-
tact with the boxes during the time that the latter are being
lifted or lowered. This is provided for by having a recess
at this end of the lay, in which the picker rests during the
time that it is not acting on the shuttle. The picker used at
this end of the loom differs considerably from the ordinary

§62

BOX MOTIONS

picker and is shown at d. Fig. 1, and also in Fig* 2. The
rod ^, passes through the hole d^ and serves as a support
for this end of the picker, in addition to being a guide for
the picker during its picking action. The other end of the
picker passes through a slot that is provided at the back of
each box. The picker stick €,
Fig, 1, passes through the slot
i,. Fig- 2, of the picker, and
is not connected to the picker
in any other manner; it throws
the picker forwards wTien pick-
ing the shuttle from this side
rf the loom. As the picker

[gtick is not attached to the

'picker, any slightly higher ele-
vation that the picker stick may
assume in moving from one end
of the box to the other will not
in any way affect the picker; consequently, there is no
necessity of adopting a p^fallel motion, the picker stick
having simply a slight recess near its lower end that bears
against a stud supported by the bracket c^, The picker
stick is held against thei stud by means of the strap e^,
which at its other end is connected to a spring.

Fio. 2

3. Xifftlngr Lever, — With a motion such as is shown in
Fig, 1, if it is desired to use four colors of filling, four shuttles,
each containing a different color, are placed in the boxes a.
It is the object of the mechanism shown in this figure to
bring the bottom of any one of the boxes level with the
race plate of the loom, in order that the picker may act on
be shuttle contained in that box. The boxes are raised and
lowered by means of the lifting rod a^, which is attached to the
Slower part of the bottom box. In designating the different
boxes on a box loom the top box is spoken of as the first
box; the next, as the second box; the next* as the third; and
so on, the bottom box, where there are four boxes, being
known as the fourth box.

4 BOX MOTIONS §62

The parts from which the rod a. receives its motion are
more clearly shown in Fis:. 3» which illustrates the different
parts of the motion as they appear when looked at from the
inner side. At its lower end» the lifting rod carries the stud a.,
to which is pivoted an arm /, connected to the upper end of
which is another arm /i, the two arms /, /> being: held together
by a spring /.. Referring again to Fig. 1» there will be
noticed the ends of two shafts d^e^ known, respectively,
as the front and back shafts of the box motion. Attached
to the inner end of the back shaft, as shown in Fig. 3, is a
circular flat disk Cx that carries a crank e^. Connected to
this crank is a crank-arm ^, that is pivoted at its other end to
a stud attached to the lever g. On the inner end of the front
shaft d is also a circular plate ^,. This plate carries an
eccentric d^, on which works a collar gx that is a part of the
lever ^. At the point where the two arms /, /, are held in
contact by the spring /„ they are slightly hollowed out, thus
forming a slot in which a stud^, that is carried by the lever ^
is held.

When it is desired to raise or lower the boxes, one or
both of the shafts of the box motion are given a half revo-
lution. From Fig. 3 it will be noticed that if the parts
connected to the front shaft d are in the position shown in this
figure and the shaft is given a half revolution, the eccentric </,
will raise the collar g^, which will also raise the lever g at
this point and result in the forward end of this lever
assuming a higher position. On the other hand, if the parts
connected to the back shaft e are in the position shown in
Fig. 3 and this shaft is given a half revolution, the crank ^,
will lower the crank-arm <?„ which will result in the back end
of the lever g being dropped and its front end raised. As
the front end of the lever g is raised, it will also raise the
lifting rod «, by means of the connections formed by the
stud g^ and arms /, /».

4. Method of Hnlslnpr and Tjoworlngr the Boxes.

The amount of lift that is given to the boxes by means of
the eccentric and crank arrangements will be seen from the

BOX MOTIONS

PlO.»

6 BOX MOTIONS §62

following:: The boxes as shown m Fig. 3 are in the position
that they assume when the first, or top, box is level with
the race plate. If, when the boxes are in this position, it is
desired to raise the lifting rod a„ and consequently the
boxes a, so that the picker will act on the shuttle carried by
the second box, the front shaft of the box motion will be
given a half revolution, causing the eccentric on this shaft
to raise the collar gx and consequently the lever g at its
forward end. As no motion is given to the crank-arrange-
ment at the back end of the lever g, the forward end of the
lever will be brought up to the point 2, Fig. 3, this lift being
sufficient to bring the bottom of the second box level with
the bottom of the race plate. When it is desired to bring
the third box into position the eccentric arrangement of the
front shaft d remains in the position shown in Fig. 3, while
the back shaft e is given a half revolution, causing the
crank-arrangement to lower the back end of the lever g to
the point g^, and the front end of the lever to be raised
to the point 5, which lift is sufficient to bring the bottom
of the third box level with the race plate. If the diflEerent
parts of the box motion are in the position shown in Fig. 3
and it is desired to bring the fourth box into position for
the picker to act on the shuttle contained by that box, both
the front and back shafts will be given a half revolution,
which will result in the eccentric on the front shaft raising
the lever g at this point, while the crank-arrangement on
the back shaft will drop the back end of the lever g to the
point g:,. This action of the two shafts will result in the
forward end of the lever ^ being raised to the point i, which
lift will be sufficient to bring the bottom of the fourth box
level with the race plate.

5. In droppinjs: the boxes, the motion given to the lever^
will, of course, be opposite to that described for raising
them, the motion being positive in both directions. How-
ever, in studying this mechanism, it should be understood
that many different combinations of raising and lowering the
boxes may be met with. For example, suppose that the

BOX MOTIONS

bottom of the second box is in line with the race plate and
^Bt is desired to raise the boxes iintil the third box is in posi-
tion. As previously stated, when the second box is in
position^ the eccentric d^ on the front shaft is in its highest
position^ while the crank-arrangement on the back shaft is
in the position shown in Fig. 3; consequently^ if it is desired
to bring the third box into position, it will be necessary to
Hgive both shafts a half revolution, resulting in the eccentric
assuming the position shown in Fig. 3^ while the crank-
arrangement will be dropped, bringing the back end of the
lever g to the point g^.

With this method of raising and lowering the boxes, any
box may be brought into position at any time no matter
which box was previously in position, although it is found
in operating a loom that the best results are obtained by
not giving the boxes a greater lift than the space occupied
by one box; that is, if the first box is in position it is better
to raise from the first to the second rather than from the first
to the third, since in the former case not so great a strain
is brought on the different mechanisms as in the latter case.

^bie'

opi
Hbo:

6. Connection Betiiveen the Ijlttlng Rod and
ver,^ — Certain special points in regard to the manner

of forming the connection between the lifting rod a^ and
the lever g should receive careful attention. By referring
to Fig, 3 it will be noticed that since the lifting rod ^, is
connected to the bottom of the boxes, this rod will neces-
sarily have a backward-and-forward movement imparted
to it by the motion of the lay, while on the other hand the
forward end of the lever ^receives an up-and-down motion;
for this reason it is impossible to make any rigid connection
between these two parts. However, by connecting the arm /
to the lower end of the lifting rod and having the lever g
operate the arm / this difficulty is overcome.

The method of connecting the parts /, /i with the levers
irovides a safety device in case any obstruction prevents the

ixes from moving freely. When operating the boxes in a
box loom it occasionally happens that a shuttle or the picker

8 BOX MOTIONS §62

becomes caught in the boxes, thus preventing the boxes from
rising or falling. If under these circumstances the lever ^ is
operated, the stud^. is forced out of the retaining slot formed
by the arms /, A, the spring /, being extended sufficiently
to allow this to be done without breaking any of the parts. It
will readily be seen that under these conditions the lifting rod
flr. will not be moved. After the obstruction has been removed,
in order to bring the parts into their proper position, it is
simply necessary to extend the spring /, and raise or lower
the arms /, A until the stud g, slips into its retaining slot.

7. Star Gear. — It is next necessary to consider the
method adopted to give the half revolution to the back and
front shafts of the box motion. It should first, however, be
understood that the motion of these shafts should be inter-
mittent, since otherwise the boxes would constantly be chan-
ging. The motion of the front and back shafts is derived
primarily from g^ar ^, ¥'\^. 1, which is known as the star
g:ear. This gear is placed on a short shaft, or stud, ^« and
is driven by a cam on the end of the cam-shaft of the loom.
This is somewhat more clearly shown in Fig. 4, which illus-
trates the different parts of the motion with the arms of the
star gear removed, in order that the inner rim of this gear may
be seen. As shown in this illustration, the outside face of
this star gear consists of sections of 7 teeth each, blank
spaces remaining between these sections. The inner rim of
the star gear contains cut-outs //, with which the stud //, of the
cam //. engages; consequently, as the cam-shaft revolves,
the stud //, engaging with the cut-outs //^ will turn the star
gear until, through the revolution of the cam-shaft, the stud is
brought out of contact with the star gear. In connection
with this motion there are two points that should be carefully
noted: (1) The stud //, at each revolution of the cam-shaft
moves the star gear a distance that is equal to the space
between the centers of two consecutive blanks on the outer
rim of this gear. (2) Since the cam-shaft revolves only
once every 2 picks, the star gear will be moved only once
in that time; and during the time that the stud is not

§62

BOX MOTIONS

engaging with a cut-out ^ the star gear is held stationary
by the concentric portion of the cam /;, being engaged with
the part of the star gear between tw^o cut-outs.

8t Opermtlon of Front and Back Shafts* — Keyed to

each of the shafts d,e, as shown in Fig, 4, is a gear — d^ on

1 the front shaft and c^ on the back shaft. Since both are

^H alike and work in exactly the same manner, a description of

one will serve to illustrate the action of both* Referring to
Fig. 5, which shows the operation of these parts somewhat
more clearly and shows the star gear, together with the front
shaft d, it will be seen that this shaft carries a collar i that
f slides loosely on the shaft and carries 2 projections i\. iV.

Box MOTIONS

les

These projections extend into cat-onts on the outer rim of
the srear d^, which contains alternate sections of teeth and
blanks; there are two blanks and two sections of teeth,

Pio. 5

each section containing^ 6 teeth. It will be noticed that the
projections I'l, /, are sufficiently high to engage with the
teeth of the star gear, provided that they are brought into
the proper position. Assuming that the different parts are

BOX MOTIONS

in the position shown in Fig. 5, then any moHon of the star
gear A will not be imparted to the gear d^, since one of the
blanks on this latter gear is being presented to the star gear
and the high portion on the projection /. is not in such a
position that the star g^ear will engage with it. H, how-
ever, any force acts on the collar / to move it toward the
gear d^, the high portion on the projection u will engage
with the star gear, and since this projection slides in one of
the cut-onts in the gear d^, the gear will be turned sufficiently
to allow its teeth to engage with the teeth of the star gear.
This action will result in the gear d^ receiving *a half revolu-
tion, when the blank filled by the projection i\ will be
presented to the star gear; and in case the collar t is not

moved back after the projection i, has engaged with the star
gear, any further motion of the star gear will not be imparted
to dt. since the high portion of the projection t\ will not
come in the path of the teeth on the star gear* It should
be noted in this connection that the construction of the pro-
jections t\, i\ is sticb that only one projection can be in the
path of the teeth on the star gear at one time.

After the star gear has engaged with and turned the gear^aj
for half a revohition, the opposite blank on this latter]
gear is presented to the star gear; and in order that the]
gear d, may always assume its correct position there are]
on each of the inner plates of the front and back shaftf]
of the box motion four studs, as shown in Fig. 6, (a)

12 BOX MOTIONS ftt

bdng a side view and (i) a front view, both partly in
section. These studs are so placed that two finfi^ers /, >«
will rest squarely on two of the studs when the shiit i
is in the correct position to present a blank on the &ce
of the gear i/. to the star gear. The fingers j\j\ are carried
by an arm /• that is connected, at its other end, to the
framework of the loom and carries a strong springy, that
is constantly tending to force the fingers j\j\ on the studs
carried by the plates.

9. Considering next the manner in which the sliding
collars are operated, in order to throw the gears i/., ^«,
Fig. 4, in and out of connection with the star gear, there will
be noticed in Fig. 1 two rods k, I that extend from the upper
part of the box motion to the lower part. Dealing first with
the rod k» it will be noticed that at its lower end this rod is
connected to an arm ki that is setscrewed to the short shaft k^.
This shaft is free to move in its bearing and has setscrewed
at its other end a lever ^a, the lower end of which projects
into the collar t. These different parts are more clearly
shown in Fig. 5; in this figure, a spring k^ is shown attached
to the lever k,. The action of this spring tends to force the
lever k, outwards at all times. It will thus be seen that if
any force acts on the rod k to raise it, the shaft k, will be
turned in its bearings; this action will throw the lower end
of the lever k» in toward the loom, which will result in the
sliding collar / being pushed in, causing the projection t\ to
engage with the star gear and thus turn the gear d^ suffi-
ciently to allow its teeth to engage with one of the sections
of teeth on the rim of the star gear. As the gear d, is
given a half revolution its opposite cut-out will be pre-
sented to the star gear, but since the collar t is in, the pro-
jection Zi will not be in a position to engage with the star
gear. Should, however, the force that lifted the rod k
be taken away, the spring k^ will push the arm k, out-
wards, together with the collar /, allowing the projection i»
to engage with the star gear and the gear d^ to be given
another half revolution.

§62 BOX MOTIONS 18

The action of the rod / is similar to that of the rod A,
with the exception that this rod is connected directly with
the lever A, Figs. 1 and 4, without the intervention of the
short shaft noted in connection with the rod k.

BOX-CHAIN MECHANISM

10. The upper ends of the rods k^ I are connected to
levers ir„ /„ respectively, as shown in Fig. 1, which are
fulcrumed on a stud fastened to the framework of the loom.
These levers are operated by means of the box chain w,
Fig. 1. This chain consists of risers m. and sinkers m.,
also sometimes known as rollers and washers, respectively.
These risers and sinkers are placed on spindles and the
spindles fastened together by links, the whole forming the
box chain. A somewhat better idea of the construction of a
box chain may be obtained by referring to Fig. 10. The
washer, or sinker, m. is a short tube of metal of sufficient
diameter to slide over the spindle, its principal object being
to hold the rollers in their correct positions. The rollers w,
are considerably larger in diameter and have at their center
a hole sufficiently large to allow the spindle to pass through.
After such a chain is built it is passed around the chain bar-
rel Wa, which is fast to the chain-barrel shaft Wi, and the
ends of the chain connected together. The chain barrel w.
is operated by the pawl «„ Fig. 8, which engages with the
ratchet /w, on the chain-barrel shaft. The pawl «, is con-
nected to the lever n, which receives its motion from the
rod Wj, which is operated by a cam on the cam-shaft of the
loom. The chain-barrel shaft w, also carries another ratchet
gear, in which works a stop-pawl that holds the chain barrel
in the correct position to bring a bar of the box chain
directly under the levers ir„ /„ Fig. 1, after the chain-
barrel shaft has been turned by the pawl «„ Fig. 8. In
connection with this motion, it should be noted that since
the pawl «, derives its motion primarily from the cam on the
cam-shaft of the loom, it will turn the ratchet gear /w,
1 tooth during every 2 picks of the loom; consequently,

14 BOX MOTIONS 86S

one bar on the box chain serves for 2 picks. It is neces-
sary to have the speed of the box chain bear this relation
to the speed of the loom, since the shuttle must travel from
the box end to the opposite end and back again before the
boxes can change.

OPERATION OF THB BOX MOTION AS A WHOIA

11. The different motions that have been described con-
stitute all the principal mechanisms fotmd on this box
motion, and its action as a whole is as follows: When the
motion is in its normal position, that is, with the first box in
position to have its shuttle acted on by the picker, all the
parts will assume the positions shown in Figs. 1 and 3. In
case it is desired to raise the second box into position, a
riser, or roller, that will operate the lever k^ is placed on
the bar of the box chain that will be forced under the lever
during the 2 picks that it is desired to have the second box
operate. On the same bar, sinkers, or washers, are placed
so as to allow the lever /. to remain down. Raising the rod
k^ by means of a roller on the box chain causes the gear d^
to engage with the star gear, thus giving the front shaft
d a half revolution. This half revolution of the front
shaft causes the eccentric ^„ Fig. 3, to assume its highest
position, thus raising the forward end of the lever g suffi-
ciently to lift the bottom of the second box on a level with
the race plate.

If the first box is in position and it is desired to Uft to the
third box, a roller is placed on the box chain to operate
the lever /,, Fig. 1, while that part of the bar of the box chain
on which the lever ir. rests will contain sinkers, allowing this
lever to drop. The lifting of the lever /, by the roller on
the box chain raises the rod /, which throws the collar /, in
toward the loom and allows the gear e^. Fig. 4, to engage
with the star gear, thus giving the back shaft e a half revo-
lution. This half revolution of the back shaft causes the rod
^„ Fig. 3, to be lov-^red, dropping the back end of the lever
g and raising its fonvard end sufficiently to bring the bottom
of the third box on a level with the race plate.

§62

BOX MOTIONS

If the first box is in position and it is desired to raise to
the fourth box, rollers are placed on the box chain to raise
both the levers ir., /„ Fig. 1, thus lifting the rods k, /, throw-
ing both gears d^.e^y Fig. 4, into connection with the star
gear and giving a half revolution to both the back and front
shafts of the box motion. Revolving both shafts causes
the eccentric ^«, Fig. 3, to assume its highest position, while
the crank e^ assumes its lowest position, thus giving a full
lift to the forward end of the' lever ^ and raising the bottom
of the fourth box to a level with the race plate.

MULTIPLIER MOTION

12. Construction. — In the mechanism so far described
one bar of the box chain serves for only 2 picks of the loom;
consequently, if the pattern being woven contains a large

Pio. 7

number of picks of each color, it will be necessary to
build a very long box chain. To overcome this difficulty, a
mechanism known as the multiplier motion is applied to
most box looms. By means of this motion, the box-chain

BOX MOTIONS

bar that controls the box containing the required color will
not have to be built for every 2 picks, since it will be possible
to build any bar in such a manner that in addition to raising
the required box it will also set in operation mechanism
that will prevent the pawl w„ Fig. 8, from operating on the
ratchet /;/, and thus allow the box chain to remain in the one
position until the required number of picks of that color or
kind have been placed in the cloth.

Certain parts of this mechanism are shown in Fig. 1, but
more detailed views of these parts are given in Figs. 7 and 8,

Fig. 8

which show the motion as looked at from the same point,
but in each figure certain parts are removed in order to show
more clearly the other parts. Referring first to Fig. 7, there
will be noticed attached to the lever n that carries the pawl for
driving the ratchet of the chain barrel another pawl w„ which
engages with a ratchet />i that is on the stud p. The ratchet/,
forms a part of the cam />», which contains two cut-outs, as
shown. The action of the pawl ;/:, on the ratchet p^ is con-
trolled by a lever />„ one end of which is in contact with
the pawl, while the other end rests on the box chain and

§62

BOX MOTIONS

I is held in this position by a spring /,, In case it is desired
to have the pawl Wi out of contact with the teeth o! the
ratchet, that part of the bar of the box chain that comes
in contact with the lower end of the lever p^ contains a
washer, allowing the spring p^ to depress this end as far as
possible, raising the other end, which is in contact with the
pawl //,! and lifting it out of contact with the teeth of the
ratchet- When, however, it is desired to have the pawl
engage with the teeth of the ratchet, a half roller, so-called
I because it projects over the links of the box chain on the
^P upper side of the chain, is placed on the bar of the box
1^ chain, which will raise the lever ;^a at its lower end, depress-

• ing the end that is in contact with tlie pawl n^^ and allowing
the pawl to engage with the teeth of the ratchet pt. An
important point to be noted in this connection is that since
I the pawl m that works the ratchet pt receives its motion

I from the lever m, it must necessarily move the ratchet p^
1 tooth every 2 picks of the loom.
Referring to Fig. 8, there will be noted working on the
outer rim of the cam/, a finger^* Setscrewed to the same
stud is another finger g,, the inner end of which rests on the
chain-barrel shaft. When the finger ^ rests on that part of
the rim of the cam that is cutout, which is the position shown
in Fig, 8, the finger g, will be down, as showm in this figure.
As the cam is turned by the action of the pawl «, on the
K ratchet/,. It will force the finger g outwards, turning the stud
to which it is setscrewed and thus raising the inner end of
I the finger ^j. As the inner end of this finger is raised, it
^fc will come in contact with the pin n^ on the pawl 7i, and thus
^m lift the pawl out of contact with the teeth of the ratchet m^.

H 13. Operatton* — The action of this mechanism is as
follows; Suppose that it is desired to place a large number
of picks of some one color, say red, in the cloth consecu-

^B tively and that the red is carried by the shuttle that is in the
first box* A bar of the box chain containing washers at the
point where the levers and the bar are in contact will be
brought under the levers; there will also be placed on the

18 BOX MOTIONS ftt

end of this same bar of the box chahi a half roller^ which will
raise the end of the lever p^ with which it comes in contact,
causing: it to assume the position shown in Fis:. 7 and allow-
ing: the pawl n^ to engag^e with the ratchet g^ear px. As the
ratchet grear is turned, the cam /. will also be turned, forcing:
the fingfer q, Figf. 8, from the cut-out to the extreme edg^e of
the cam. This action will raise that end of the iBngfer q^ that
is in contact with the chain-barrel shaft, causing: it to lift the
pawl »• out of contact with the ratchet m. and thus stop the
box chain from turning^: As the cam^«, Fig. 7, continues to
revolve througfh the action of the pawl n^ on the ratchet gfear A,
the lever q^ Figf. 8, will drop into the opposite cut-out on the
rim of the cam, allowing: the pawl »• ag^ain to engfag^e with the
ratchet m, and to turn the box chain until the next bar is
brought under the levers k^y /«, Fig. 1. If this bar also con-
tains a half roller, the different parts of the motion will be
placed again in the same position they assumed when the
previous bar was operating. On the other hand, if there is
no half roller on this bar, the lever/,, Fig. 7, will be pulled
down by the spring ^, raising the pawl », out of contact
with the ratchet gear p^\ the finger q. Fig. 8, will remain in
the cut-out of the cam p^ and allow the pawl «, to turn the
chain barrel until a bar is brought under the levers contain-
ing a half roller, which will raise the lever/,, Fig. 7.

By referring to Fig. 7, it will be noticed that the ratchet /,
contains 12 teeth, and as the pawl n^ while engaging with
this ratchet moves it 1 tooth during every 2 picks of the
loom, and since one bar of the box chain can cause the
cam /, to make only half a revolution, then one bar of
the box chain that is built to operate the multiplier motion
will serve for 12 picks; that is, if a half roller is placed on a
bar of the box chain, the shuttle that is brought into opera-
tion by that bar will run for 12 picks before a change is made.

The multiplier motion that has been described is known
as the 12-pick multiplier. It is, however, possible to have
the motion control a different number of picks by means of
having a different number of cut-outs on the cam, or by
changing the number of teeth in the ratchet.

L § 62 BOX MOTIONS 19 ^^B

^^H METHOD OF BtTtLDING BOX CHAINS ^^H

^^^^14. An illustration is given here showing the building ^^^B

^" of a complete chain when using a 12-pick multiplier, the ^H

filling being: inserted as follows: 24 picks blue, 24 picks ^H

white* 12 picks red^ 12 picks yellow, 12 picks red, 12 picks ^|

^ white, 12 picks blue, 4 picks white, 4 picks blue, 4 picks white, ^H

^B 4 picks blue, 4 picks white, 12 picks blue, 12 picks white, ^H

'12 picks red, 12 picks jrellow, 12 picks red, 24 picks ^H

white* giving a total of 212 picks in one repeat of the ^M

chain. ^H

Box chains are built from pattern drafts, which show the ^H

number of picks of each color in one repeat and the order ^H

in which they are placed in the cloth. A box-chain draft for ^M

the colors arranged as stated above is shown in Fig. 9* ^H

^ With this draft as a guide, it is necessary to build the box ^M

BfH0

/»

Wi^iiB

/»

Hmt

«^

/»

ym^oM^

eac
the
tha

difl

1 the

■ the

^ fou

cor

,wil

Pig. S

tin in such a manner that the exact number of picks ol
^h color shown in the draft will be placed in the cloth in
ir proper order. One other point that should be noted h
t in many cases the colors are so arranged that it is b
Scult matter so to build the chain that serious jumps in
boxes will be avoided, for while it is possible to raise
boxes from the first to the fourth or to lower them from the
irth to the first, this should be avoided as much as possible
isequently, when building a box chain care should always
taken to place the different colors in the different boxes
such a manner that the least possible number of jumps
I be necessary, A jump occurs when the boxes are
ved through a greater space than is occupied by one box
referring to Fig. 9, it will be noticed that by placing blue
the first box, white in the second, red in the third, and
low in the fourth, the boxes will be lifted in regnlai

E ^1

BOX MOTIONS

§32

fs^B^Je

i^BoJo

Bf^Boje

S^S^^

4^3m

order and hq jumps will occur; whereas, if the red is placed
in the second box and the white in the third, it will be neces-
sary to jump the boxes in many cases.

Fig:. 10 shows five bars of a fillingf chain, each bar showing
a different arrangement of rollers and washers; the first, or
top, bar contains the mnltipHer roll. It will be seen that, ^m
with the exception of this roll, the bar consists of washers; ^H
consequently, a bar built in this manner will give 12 picks

of the first box. The next bar
contains washers only and, as a
result, the first box will be on a
line with the race plate. The
next bar contains a roll that will
raise the lever k^, Fi^, 1, of the
box motion and, as explained,
this will raise the second box.
The next bar contains a roll that
will raise the lever /„ Fig. 1, of
the box motion and will result
in the third box being brought
into position. The bottom bar
is built to give the fourth box.
When building a box chain for
a loom, the side on which the
box mechanism is placed should
be carefully noted and the chain
built in such a manner that the
rollers and washers will corae
under their correct levers. In
placing a box chain on the loom,
the first bar is placed on tJie
chain barrel at the back and the barrel turned by hand in
the same direction that it moves when operating. Com-
paring Fig. 10 with Fig. 1, it will be seen that if the
first, or top, bar is placed on the barrel m, in the manner
described and the hand wheel turned in the direction
of the arrow, the levers will be operated in the manner
indicated.

Fig. 10

S62

BOX MOTIONS

Fi(*-U

15, Fig. 11 shows the complete chain built
according to the chain draft* The first color

called for in the draft is 24 picks of blue* which
color is in the firjit box. To obtain these 24
picks of blue the first two bars of the chain, read-
ing from the top, are built to give the first box
and on the end of each bar is placed a multiplier
roll. Since each bar containing a multiplier roll
will give 12 picks, these first two bars of the
chain will give 24 picks of the first box. The
next color in the draft is 24 picks of white, which
is in the second box. The next two bars are
built in the same manner as the first two, with
the exception that there is placed on each a roll
that will raise the inside lever of the box motion
and thus give the second box. By comparing
each bar of the box chain with the filling draft
it will be seen that the desired result will be
given. However, it should be noted that when
it is necessary to place only 4 picks of a color
in the cloth, the multiplier cannot be used. In
this case^ two bars are built to give the desired
box and, since each bar operates for 2 picks,
the desired 4 picks will be given.

In case it is necessary to place a certain num-
ber of picks of one color in the cloth, this number
being greater than 12 and yet not a multiple of 12,
as many bars as possible will be built with multi-
pliers and then the desired number will be com-
pleted by building a sufficient number of bars
without multipliers. For example, suppose it is
desired to place 30 picks of one color in the
cloth; two bars containing multipliers will be
built, which will give 24 of the required picks,
and in addition to these, three bars without
multipliers will be built, which will give 6
more picks of the same color, thus completing
the 30 picks.

a BOX MOTIONS S82

stuaj box If otiok

16. On most looms it will be found that when the filUns:
runs out, the loom* will continue to run for 2 or S picks
before being: completely stopped by the filling: stop-motion.
On plain work this is generally of little or no consequence.
When, however, it occurs on a box loom, if some method is
not adopted to stop the operation of the box motion the
exact pattern of the filling will not be placed in the cloth.
To overcome this defect the rod that carries the pawl opera-
ting the box chain, instead of being connected directly to the
cam on the cam-shaft, is connected to what is known as the
still box motion.

17. Construction. — ^A view of this motion is shown in
Fig. 12. The rod »> operates the pawl working the box chain.
At its lower end this rod is connected to a lever r fulcrumed
at the point r,. Fulcrumed at this same point is another
lever s, which carries two arms Ji, j«, held together by the
spring Ss. On the cam-shaft of the loom is placed a double
can") one part of which /x operates the lever j, while the other
part / acts on the lever r. These levers have a point of
contact at r„ and are thus prevented from coming any closer
together. The lever r carries, at the point ^4, a stud that
works in a recess formed by the two arms 5,, j,. Thus, as
the lever s is raised by the action of the cam /„ the lower arm
of the lever r will also be raised by means of the connection
formed at 5«, provided that there is nothing to prevent its
action. On the other hand, when the lever r is depressed by
the action of the cam /, the lever s will also be lowered by
means of this same connection. Connected to the upper
end of the lever r is an arm u that rests and slides on the
plate «i. A rod v passes through the brackets z/„ Vt and
contains a slot v^ through which the arm u passes in its
backward and forward movement. At its upper end the
rod V carries a projection under which the finger v» passes;
this finger is setscrewed to the rod beneath the breast beam
and is operated by the filling stop-motion.

BOX MOTIONS

18. Operatton. — The operation of this mechanism is
as follows; So long as the shuttle contains the filling, the
cams /, /, will give an up-and-down movement to the
levers i, r, since although each cam acts on only one lever,
by the connection at the point s^ the action of each cam will
be imparted to both levers. The motion of the levers being,
in turn, imparted to the rod ni, it will turn the box chain and
thus give the desired pattern of the fillingr.

When, however, the filling runs out, although the loom
may run for two or more picks, yet by means of this device
the rod Ut will not operate the box chain. This is accom-
plished in the following manner: When the filling is absent,
the filling-fork lever will engage with the filling-fork
ihook and move back the filltng-fork slide. As this slide is
Ipusbed back it turns the rod beneath the breast beam to

24 BOX MOTIONS

which is connected the finger z/, shown in Pig. 12. As this
rod is turned it will lift the finger t^„ which in turn will raise
the rod v and by this means bring the lower end of the
slot v^ above the level of the plate Ux on which the arm u
slides. Thus, when the cam /» lifts the lever s it will also
tend to lift the lower arm of the lever r, but will be pre-
vented from doing so by the arm «, which, in being pushed
along the plate u^, will come in contact with that part of the
rod V that is projecting above the plate. The stud j* will be
pushed out of the notch formed by the arms ^i, 5„ the springs,
allowing this to be accomplished without the breaking of any
parts. After the filling has been inserted and the loom
started, the different parts of this motion will assume their
former positions, since, as the pressure of the cam /» is taken
from the lever s, the two levers will be brought together
through the action of the spring s^, which is extended when
the lever r is prevented from operating.

FIXING OF BOX liOOMS

19, Although the fixing of box looms may be found to
differ to a certain extent from the fixing of looms previously
described, all the points that apply to plain looms apply
equally well to the box loom, and should be carefully borne
in mind when considering the additional difficulties connected
with box looms.

20. Timing tlie Boxes. — When starting a box loom,
the first object to be attained is the timing of the boxes in
such a manner that they will not start to change before the
shuttle is well into the box and will be completely changed
before the loom commences to pick. This is very essential,
since if the boxes commence to change before the shuttle is
well boxed, the shuttle will be caught in the mouth of the box
and will thus prevent the changing. On the other hand, if
the loom commences to pick before the boxes are completely
changed, the bottom of the box will not be level with the race
plate when the shuttle is thrown.

§62

BOX MOTIONS

I Tbere are several methods of timing the boxes, one prob-
ably being as good as another, so long as it accoraplishes the
result of changingf the boxes in time. One method is to set
the box-changing device so that the boxes will have moved
about i inch when the dagger on the protector rod strikes
the bnnter. On the Crompton loom, it is a good plan to set
this motion so that the cam on the end of the cam-shaft will
just commence to move the star wheel w^hen the crank-shaft
of the loom is on the bottom center. In whatever manner
the boxes may be timed, the two results mentioned must
always be accomplished. To set the cam that operates the
box chain on the Crompton loom have the shuttle on the
shipper side. Turn the loom until the crank-shaft is slightly
beyond its front center; then set the cam so that it will jnst
start to raise the connecting*rod that imparts the motion of
the cam to the lever n, Fig. 8, operating the pawl Ut^ When
the pawl that operates the box motion is at its fullest
throw* the risers and sinkers of the box chain should be
directly beneath the levers and the cylinder should be held
stationary after the pawl leaves the ratchet gear.

Another point that should be noted in connection with the
setting of the Crompton box motion is the position of the
sliding projections that engage with the star wheel. When

^ there are no risers on the box chain under the levers, the star
irheeland sliding projections should be in such a position that
they will clear each other. There should also be a little
loose motion in the rods connecting the sliding projections
with the levers that rest on the box chain. When these are
properly set, test the lift of the levers by placing a riser
beneath thenl, making sure that the sliding projections are
forced into such a position that they will engage correctly
with the star wheel* Care should be taken that these sliding
projections are not moved farther than is necessary*

21. Ijevellncr tlic* Boxeii* — After the boxes have been
timed so that when changing they will start and stop cor-
rectly, it is necessary to level them: that is, the lifting parts
should be so adjusted that whenever a box ts brought into

91— as

26 BOX MOTIONS

position, the bottom of that box will be on an exact level
with the race plate of the loom. This will sometimes be
found to be a difficult matter, since in many cases all the
boxes, with the exception of one, may be in a correct posi-
tion, and yet changing the one that is a little out of true may
so alter the lift of the others that, when they are again
brought into position, they will be found to be either above
or below the correct position they should occupy. The
leveling of the boxes is a matter of leverage, and it is neces-
sary to so set the different arms of the levers that they will
give the exact throw required.

When leveling the boxes, bring the box motion into its
normal position; that is, have the top box in such a position
that the shuttle it contains will be acted on by the picker.
Set the bottom of this box level with the race plate of the
loom by adjusting the lifting rod by means of the check-
nuts a«, a., Fig. 3, placed at its lower end. After the first
box has been leveled in this manner, bring the second box
into position by turning the front shaft. Both the front
and back shafts may be readily turned by hand in order to
bring any desired box into position, and when leveling the
boxes it is customary to turn the shafts in this manner so as
to facilitate the operation. When the second box is in posi-
tion, level it by means of moving the stud ,(r»» Figf- 3, in the
slot at the forward end of the lever g. After leveling the
second box return to the first and see that this box is
in its correct position. Moving the stud g^, in order to level
the second box, may have thrown the first box slightly out
of position; consequently, it will be necessary again to level
this box by means of the nuts a., a^. With the first and
second boxes level, lift to the third box by means of turning
the back shaft. If this box is not level it may be adjusted
by moving the stud that connects the rod e*. to the lever g,
a slot in the back end of this lever provides for this adjust*
ment. If this slot does not provide a sufficient adjustment
the crank <?„ Fig. 8, may be moved up or down slightly by
means of loosening the nuts that secure it to the plate d.
Having leveled the third box, return to the first and second

BOX MOTIONS

to
to

and i£ they are not level adjust them as described. With
the first, second, and third boxes level, lift to the fourth by
turoin^ both the front and back shafts. If this box requires
any adjustment it should be divided between the slots in
the two ends of the lever ^ and the crank-adjustment* With
the fourth box le\*el, return to the other boxes and see that
they are correct.

The boxes should work freely in the grooves in which they
slide and yet not be so loose as to result in the shuttle bein^
given an uneven throw when acted on by the picker. If they
are tight in the grooves, they will be raised and lowered in
a jerky manner, which is very liable to result in the picker
being caught at some part of its throw, thus preventing the
lifting of the boxes.

22. Regrulatlni^ the Binders and Shuttles* — After
the box motion has been properly timed and the different
boxes correctly leveled, the shuttles and binders should be
regulated. The binders on a box loom are made of malleable
iron and, consequently, can be bent to any shape desired.
It should be the aim of every fixer to see that the shuttle
is checked in' as easy and imiform a manner as possible*
On the inner side of the binders are grooves, the edges of
which should be kept perfectly smooth so that they will not
cut tlie filling:^

In the case of a 4 x 1 loom, the weaver should have at
least six shuttles, all of which should be of an exact size and
weight; otherwise, some of them will work in a perfect
manner, while others will not work satisfactorily. When a
new set of shuttles is started in a box loom, care should be
taken to have them in such a condition that any shuttle will
run as well in one box as in another.

23. Bh littles Catching.— A defect that probably occurs
as frequently as any on a box loom is the catching of the
nose of the shuttle in the picker, thus preventing the lifting
of the boxes.

At the end of the lay on the box side, directly behind the
picker, is a hollow space, which should be packed sufficiently

as BOX MOTIONS Ifll

to cause the front part of the picker to come on a line with
the plate that serves for the back of the boxes. This packini^
generally consists of a roll of cloth and» in addition to pre-
venting the shuttle from entering the box too far» also serves
as a bunter for the picker, thus helping to check the shuttle
more gradually and prevent its rebounding in the box.

On the Crompton box loom, there will be found on the
picking cam that is placed at the box side of the loom, a
device intended to prevent the shuttle from being too far in
the box when the boxes are changing. This device consists of
an extra stud on the picking cam placed in such a position
that it will come in contact with the picking cone just as the
shuttle comes to rest in the box. By this means, the picking
stick will be moved in toward the loom about i inch, which
in turn will push the shuttle that distance, thus prevent-
ing any chance of its being caught This additional point
on the cam is not of course so large as the regular picking
cam-point, but is only sufficiently large to accomplish the
desired result.

24. Attaoliinfir tbe Picker. — As mentioned, the picker
pn a box loom slides back and forth on a rod, or spindle, a..
Fig. 1. Before placing the picker on this spindle, care
should be taken to see that it is perfectly straight, since in
some cases pickers become so warped that the hole through
which the spindle passes will not be shaped correctly and,
consequently, will not allow the picker to move freely on
the spindle. In such cases, the best plan is to place the
picker in a vise and after making it as straight as possible,
file out the hole of the picker sufficiently to enable it to
work freely on the spindle. On the end of the spindle
next to the loom end a piece of leather should be placed,
in order to prevent, as far as possible, the strain that would
otherwise come on the picker stick when it strikes the
forward part of the box in being thrown forwards by the
picking motion.

25. One other point should be noted in connection with
box motions; namely, when they are applied to looms having

§62 BOX MOTIONS 29

the dobby, the chain operating the boxes should always be
timed correctly with the chain operating the harnesses, in
order to have the filling inserted at its proper place in the
weave.

POWER AND SPEED

26. The power required to drive a box loom is neces-
sarily somewhat in excess of that required to drive a plain
loom, owing to the additional motions that are brought into
use. The required power will also depend to a certain
extent on the number of boxes on the loom. A test made
in a mill rvmning box looms resulted as follows: One hundred
and sixty 40i-inch Crompton (4x1) box looms running
158 picks per minute and weaving 27-inch plain goods
consumed 58.19 horsepower, or an average of 2.75 looms
per horsepower.

In many cases the box motion is applied to looms having
dobbies attached and, in such cases, the necessary horse-
power to drive the loom will be even greater. A test to
show the marked difference in horsepower required between
looms with and without box motions resulted as follows:
Looms on 16-hamess work without the box motion were
running at the rate of 4.43 looms per horsepower, and when
the same work was placed on box looms, it was found that
2i looms were consuming 1 horsepower.

27. It naturally follows that the speed of a box loom
must be less than that of a plain loom. The exact speed at
which the loom can be run will depend to a great extent on
the number of boxes and to an even greater extent on the
class of weave being run; that is, the character of the yarn
and also the method of inserting the filling, whether it can
be placed in the cloth by simply raising or lowering the
boxes in regular order or whether it is necessary to resort
to many serious jumps. A good speed for these looms may
be anywhere between 140 and 160 picks per minute, the
exact speed depending on the conditions mentioned.

JACQUARDS

(PART 1)
JACQUABD CONSTRUCTION

INTRODirCTION

!• Purpose of the Jaequard. — The weaves for fabrics
to be woven on looms with cam or dobby shedding attach-
ments must necessarily be limited in the number of ends
having different interlacings, since the largest number of
harnesses usually employed in a dobby is 30, while the scope
of cam-looms is considerably less than this. Dobbies can be
constructed with a somewhat larger capacity, but their use is
not advisable, since the slight gain in capacity is more than
offset by the detrimental effect, on the warp, of a larger
number of harnesses, and the increased skill required on the
part of the weaver. When making a weave for a loom with
a 30-hamess dobby, the designer is limited to the use of 30
ends working differently, that is, interlacing with the filling
in a different manner from other ends. It is true that by
using different methods of drawing in the ends through
the harnesses, a weave can be made to occupy as many
ends as may be desired; many different effects may thus be
produced that at first glance appear to require that a very
large number of ends shall work differently, although when
any such fabric is analyzed, the entire weave will be
found to contain not more than 30 ends that interlace with
the filling in a different manner.

For notice of copyright, seepage immediaieh following the title page

2 JACQUARDS ' $68

When, therefore, a cloth is to be woven with a weave that
necessitates a greater variety of interlacing of the ends than
is possible when using a (lobby, it becomes necessary to use
a shedding machine of greater capacity — the jacquard. The
principal distinction between the dobby and the jacquard is
that whereas the dobby employs harnesses through each of
which are drawn a large number of ends that consequently
work alike, the jacquard employs a shedding mechanism and
harness arrangement by means of which each end of the
warp may be operated independently if so desired, it being
thus possible to have every end of the warp interlace with
the filling in a manner different from that of any other end.
Jacquards are usually arranged, however, so that 4, 5, 6, 7,
or 8 ends work alike.

2. Invention of the Jacqunrcl. — The jacquard machine
derives its name from its inventor, Joseph Marie Jacquard,
a mechanic of Lyons, France, who first turned his attention
to improving the means of raising the harnesses in looms
for figured weaving during the latter part of the 18th cen-
tury, although it was not imtil early in the 19th century that
he finally perfected the machine bearing his name.

The "jacquard machine is considered one of the most
nearly perfect inventions ever made, for the reason that not
alone the principle, but even the essential parts have
remained practically the same as originally conceived by
Jacquard, although, of course, in the modern jacquard many
improvements have been made that have added greatly to
its efficiency.

3. Classes of Jaequards. — A jacquard machine is a
mechanism placed above a loom for the purpose of automatic-
ally selecting and raising the desired warp ends so as to
form the reciuircd shed for the insertion of each pick of filling.
The cxi')TQssion Jacf/nan/ /oo)/i, which is frequently used, is a
misnt)mcr, since the term jacquard applies to the shedding
mechanism only; this can be applied to almost any ordinary
loom by making slight alterations. In Fig. 1, a jacquard
machine is shown placed above a loom and connected to it

4 JACQUARDS §68

in the manner usually employed. This illustration sfives the
appearance of the jacquard machine and loom tog:ether when
in operation.

The jacquard machines most frequently used at the present
time may be divided into three general classes, as follows:
single-actings or single-lift, jacquards, which may be either
close-shed or spiit-shed machines; double-acting jacquards with
one cylinder, which are known as double-lift single-cylinder
machines; and double-acting jacquards with two cylinders,
known as double-lift double-cylinder machines.

SINGIiE-IilFT JACQUARDS

OENERAIi PRINCIPIiBS OF CONSTRUCTION ANB
OPERATION

4« Fig. 2 shows a perspective view of a sing:le-lift
Jacquard complete, while Fig. 3 shows a cross-section
through certain of the essential parts of this machine.
Those parts shown in both figures are lettered alike and
reference should be made to each when studying the
descriptions.

The lower part b of the jacquard is known as the grate,
gratijig, or rest board. The hooks a pass through this grate
and by means of their curved points a^ are supported by it.
The neck cords a„ to which the harness lines are fastened,
are attached to the lower ends of the hooks, and by this
means the warp ends are raised and lowered as desired.
The arrangement of the harness lines is shown in Fig. 1;
they are attached to the hooks and pass downwards to the
warp ends that they govern.

In order to accomplish the raising of the hooks and, con-
sequently, the lifting of the harness lines and warp ends, it
is necessary that some mechanism shall first select the hooks
that it^is desired to raise, after which some other mechanism
must be brought into use to raise those hooks. The latter
mechanism, or the lifting of the hooks, will be considered'
first, because it is necessary to understand this part of the

JACQUARDS

Se»

Pi<i. 3

§63 JACQUARDS 7

machine in order to comprehend that directly connected with
the selection of the hooks.

5. Referring to Figs. 2 and 4, a lever r, attached to a
shaft r, is raised and lowered by means of a rod ^„ which is
fastened by a stud, or crankpin, to a wheel f„ on the crank-
shaft Cxx of the loom. Also attached to the shaft c. are two
arms, the one shown in Fig. 2 being marked r,. These arms
are connected by means of rods r* to studs Cm on the casing c
of the griff (sometimes spelled griffe), or gn'fe; only a

portion of the griff is shown in Fig. *y The casing r extends
around the knives r,, thus forming a rectangular frame, with
the knives, which are shown broken in Fig. *{, extending
from side to side. As the rod ^, is alternately lowored and
raised, it will in turn raise and lower the grifT, and since the
rod r. and stud r, are duplicated on the other side of the
machine, although not shov/n in Fig. 2, the griff will thus
receive an equal lift at each side. Since the ujiper curved

8 JACQUARDS §63

ends of the hooks a^ Fig:. 3, can be made to assume such a posi-
tion that they will be caught by the griff in rising, the hooks
and, consequently, the harness lines will be lifted by the griflE.

6. Referring next to the mechanism that selects the
hooks to be raised, each hook is connected to a wire d^
Fig. 3, known as a needle, that runs at right angles to the
hooks and is connected at one end to a spring contained in
the spring box e. Thus the needles are constantly being
pushed forwards by these springs and held in such a position
that they will cause the curved top of the hooks to become
engaged with the griff. Provided that there were no mech-
anism to offset the action of the springs, all the hooks would
occupy this position continually and would consequently be
lifted by the griff each time it was raised. At the end
opposite the springs, the wires pass through, and project
slightly beyond, the needle board, or face plate, /. The
cylinder g. Fig. 2, is capable of being brought against the
needle board, and also contains holes that exactly correspond
with the position of the needles as they project through the
needle board. Thus, if nothing intervened between the
needle board and the cylinder, all the hooks would be lifted
by the griff in rising, since the needles are perfectly free to
be pushed forwards by the springs.

7. The Cards. — Laced together and passing around the
cylinder, as shown in Fig. 1, are a number of cards similar
to the one shown in Fig:. 5. This card is shown with all the

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00000000000000>OOOC)C>00< >0000 OOOOOOOOOOOOOQOOOOOOOOOQ

\ OOCX)OOOCX)OOOOOOOOOOOQOOOOO OOOOQOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOnrt

' OOOOOOOOOQOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOQQQOOOOQOOQOg

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOCXJOOOOOOO

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OOOOOOOOOOOOOOQOOOQOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOCX)OOOOOOOOQOOO

Fk.. 5

holes cut, but it is possible to have any part of the card
uncut, the number of holes cut and their position depending
on the hooks that it is desired to lift.

If a number of cards, all similar to Fig. 5, should be laced
together and passed around the cylinder g and the machine

§63
■ tbeo

JACQUARDS

then operated J the needles would still retain the position that
would cause the hooks to be lifted by the g^nff* since the
holes in the cards would exactly correspond with those in
the needle board and cylinder* On the other hand, should
the cards not be cut at alU every needle in the machine
would be pushed back, the hooks would not engage with the
griff, and all the harnesses would remain down» It is by
cutting some of these holes and not cutting others that some
ends of the warp are raised and others left down^ thus
determining the weave*

The large holes, one at each side of the card shown in
Fig* 5, are known as M^ holes, and it is through these that
the pegs gj shown on the cylinder g pass, thus holding the
card in the exact position desired. The two small holes at
each end of the card and also the two in the center are
known as iace hoUs and are used when lacing the cards
together; that is, attaching them to one another by means of
cords so that they form a continuous chain*

One card determines the raising and lowering of the ends
for only one pick; consequently, as many cards must be cut
as there are picks in one repeat of the weave being pro-
duced, and these cards then laced together and passed around
the cylinder* At each pick of the loom a new card is brought
against the needle board and determines the hooks to be
raised and those to remain down for that pick. In order to
accomplish this, it is of course necessary to revolve the
cylinder- The mechanism that has this for its object will be
described later, as it is desired at present to deal only with
those parts that bear directly on the lifting and lowering
of the hooks.

8- The operation of the parts so far referred to is as
follows: One face of the cylinder g together with a card is
brought against the needle board /* Wherever a hole is cut
in the card, a needle will project through, and the hook con-
trolled by that needle will remain in such a position that its
curved upper end will be caught by the griff when rising.
Wherever the card is not cut, the needles coming against the

10 JACQUARDS §68

card will be pashed back and the hooks controlled by those
needles will be moved oat of the path of the gtitt and will
consequently remain down. As the crank-shaft of the loom
revolves, the rod c^, Fig. 4, will be lowered, thns raising the
griff. As the griff is raised, all hooks controlled by needles
passing through holes in the card will be caught and carried
up by it, while all hooks controlled by needles that are
pushed back by the card will escape the griff and remain
down. In this manner the sAed is formed.

During each revolution of the crank-shaft o^ the loom, the
griff is both raised and lowered; consequently, the machine is
stngle-lifL Before forming the shed for the next pick, all the'
warp ends are brought level at the bottom of the shed, thus
forming a dose-shed.

DETAILS OF CONSTBUCTION

9. The grHf f of a jacquard consists of the casing r. Pig. 3,
and knives, or blades, Cx. There are as many of th6se knives
in a jacquard as there are hooks in the short row, the ntimber
in this case being eight, although the number of hooks in
both the short and long rows is dependent on the total
number of hooks in the machine. The sides of the knives
facing the hooks are beveled off or else the knives are
inserted in the griff in a slanting position, in order to lessen
their liability, when they are descending, of striking and
bending the tops of the hooks that are down. If the sides
of the knives were vertical, their lower edges in dropping
would be certain to strike the tops of the hooks that were
down. Even knives similar to those in Fig. 3 will at times
strike and bend the tops of the hooks. When a hook is bent
in this manner it is said to be crowned.

Another construction of the knives that also tends to pre-
vent the crowning of the hooks is shown in Fig. 6. In this
case there is, in addition to the slanting portion of the knife,
a part that is vertical, the whole forming a knife deep enough
to have its lower edge below the top of the hook, even when
the hook is down and the knife up. With this construction
there is of course no possibility of hooks being crowned, but

IT'

§63

JACQUARDS

the additional depth of the knives makes it more difficult to see
into the machine if it is desired to examine any of its parts.
The construction shown in Fig. 7 is another method that
is sometimes adopted* In this case tlie tops of the hooks
are extended above the highest point reached by the griif in
its lift and, consequently, the knives are at no time in such
a position that they can strike the tops of the hooks. The

(((((at

u u

Fia.«

I disadvantage of a machine havinir its hooks ajid knives con-
structed in this manner im the rapid wearing away of the
hooks, caused by constant chafing aj^ainst the knives.

10, The Needles, — Fig. 8 is a plan view of a complete
needle, similar to the top one shown in Fi^, 3. The former
represents the needle as it would appear when looking dowit^
wards on it; the curved part that operates the hook Is shown

»1— 3tt

JACQUARDS

163

bent horbon tally* lo Figs. 6, 7> and some others, the ctirve
of each needle is shown as if inclined upwards; this is for
the sake of clearness, as the needles are actually bent hori-
zontally out of a straight line* Each needle in a vertical
row differs from any other in the same row as to the position
of the curved portion made to receive the hook- The top
one has the curve at the longest distance from the spring

liiliiil

Fig, 7

box; the second one, a little nearer; and so on, until the
bottom needle has the curved part nearest the spring boz^^
As the hooks of a 400-hook machine are arranged in eight
long rows, each operated by a different knife, this variation
in the construction of the needles is necessary in order to
bring the curved part of each in the exact position to reccite

§63

JACQUARDS

its hook. The hook passing throtigh any one needle is
locked in position by the other needles in the same vertical
row, as shown in Fig- 3. On one side of each hook is the
curved part of its needle, while the other seven needles pass

TFOI

Pig. S

the other side of it. In this manner the hooks are pre-
vented from moving out of their correct position, although
any hook may be readily removed from the machine in case
it is desired to fix any of the parts,

( Other styles of needles are sometimes adopted, the middle
portion of one of which is shown in Fig, 9. In this style
the hook passes through a loop formed by the needle making

Pig. 0

a complete turn. The style of needle shown in this figure is
not as commonly adopted as that shown in Fig, 8, since the
latter is more easily removed in case repairs become
necessary.

I 11, The Spring Bo^. — The construction of the sprltigr
Iwx is shown in Fig, 3. It consists of top and bottom pieces
connected by fiat wires ^„ one wire passing through the eyes,
or loops, of the needles in each vertical row. Rods et connect
one end of the spring box to the other and serve to separate
the horizontal rows of needles. Carried by each needle is a
spring e^ that is compressed between the wire e* and the
shoulder on the needle* These springs keep the needles
pushed forwards except when they are pressed back by
the cards.

j 12* Jacquard Harness, — The harness of a jacquard is
entirely different from the harness on looms using cams or
dobbies* A view of one line of a jacquard harness* together
with all its attachments, is given in Fig. 10, the different
parts with their letters of reference being as follows: a, the

14 JACQUARDS Stt

jacquard hook; a., the neck cord, which is threaded
throusrh a hole in the boiiam board at., Fis:. 2; a«, a
harness line, 8 of which are attached to the neck cord
in this case, all threaded through holes in a board known
as the comber board extendins: across the loom, as seen
in Fig:. 1; A*! the top loop, mid-piece, or sleeper, which
is made of a double thread twisted and varnished; a«,
the mail, or eye, which contains three holes, the warp
end being: drawn throusfh the center one; a„, the bot-
tom loop, or hanc^er, made of a double thread
twisted and varnished; a„, the weig^ht, or ling:oe. The
sleeper, mail, hansfer, and linc^oe are frequently spoken
of as one piece and are then known as the ooupllngr.
A harness line is sometimes spoken of as a tnail line.

The action of the g:riff on the hooks is non-positive,
since it simply raises the hooks without lowering them;
consequently, some such attachment as the lingoe must
be adopted to lower the hooks when the griff drops.

All parts of a jacquard (lamess are not necessarily
similar to those shown in Fig. 10, since in many cases
different methods of construction are adopted. This
illustration, however, shows the general principles
involved.

«»

CYIilNDER MOTIONS

13. Method of Turning the Cylinder. — The

cylinder consists of four flat faces, one of which must
press against the needle board at each pick of the loom.
It is impossible to turn the cylinder when it is against
the needle board, and it therefore becomes necessary
to moye it from the needle board in order that it may
be turned.

The method adopted to turn the cylinder is shown in
Fig. 2. As the cylinder g is moved from the needle
board, the hook ^„ sometimes called the pawl^ or
a,, catchy which is pivoted to the frame of the machine,
will catch the head, or lantern, g^ of the cylinder and
Fio. 10 turn it quarter way around, thus causing the next face

163

JACQUARDS

1^°

I f 1

of the cylinder to be presented to the needle board when the
:ylinder is a^ain brought in. To prevent the cylinder from
turning: more than quarter way around, and also to keep it
steady^ so that it will always return squarely against the
needles, it is held firmly by a hammer ^f*. which is pressed
against the lantern of the cylinder by springs ^,.

14» Mechatil^ni Tor Movlni^ Cylinder From Needle
Board. — Several cylinder motions are applied to jacquard
machines, all of which may be divided into two general
classes, known as seii-aciing 0'ihider motions and independent
cyiinder moii&ns, according to whether they are or are not
actuated by the griff. AH cylinder motions, whether inde-
pendent or self-acting, should be provided with some means
of regulating the time at which the cylinder is brought
against the needle boardt in order that the cards may act on
the needles at the proper time. The motion must also give
to the cylinder a dwell during the time that it should be kept
pressed against the needle boards to allow the grifif sufficient
time to rise and thus escape the hooks that are pressed back
by the card acting on the needles*

15. Independent Cylinder Motions. — An independ-
ent cylinder motion may be defined as one that moves the
cylinder in and out by means of some mechanism entirely
separate from the jacquard machine itself. This mechanism
is usually driven by an eccentric on the crank *shaft of
the loom.

A good type of this class of cylinder motions is shown in
Fig, 11, The cylinder is supported by two arms k,h, that
are pivoted at the points h^. These arms are connected by a
cross-piece A,, the whole being known as the cyiinder gate.
Connected to the arm ^ is a rod A. attached to a bracket K
carried by the cross -shaft r,, while a similar rod connects the
arm h^ to the bracket A., which is at the other end of the
cross-shaft f.* Connected to the shaft r* is the lever €^ that
is worked by the rod attached to the wheel on the crank-
shaft of the loom* As the lever c^ is thrown up by the
revohdng of the crank*shalt it acts through the shaft r„

JACQUARDS

S6S

§63

JACQUARDS

brackets k^, k^, and rods /i. to throw the cylinder gate away
from the needle board; while, on the other hand, when the
lever Tf is brought do \\Ti» the cylinder is brought in against
the needle board. Springs //* are attached to the rods /^ in
order to prevent the breakage of any parts should an
obstruction come be-
tween the cylinder and
the needle board*

16, Another inde-
pendent cylinder mo-
tion is shown in
Figs. 12 and 13. The
cylinder^, Fig* 12, is
supported by a lever k
pivoted at At and con-
nected by a rod A. with
a swivel-joint to an \;--^-^'
arm s that is set- , '"
screwed to the shalt s,, (i '^
which is carried in
bearings supported by
the framework of the
loom* A segment cast-
ing J*, Fig. 13, is also
setscrewed to the
shaft J, and contains
a slot with which a
projection j, engages.
This projection is car-
ried by a sliding plate
Ji, supported by a cast-
ing 5* that is loose on
the shaft s,. A stud s, of the plate j,, extends through a
bracket, or projection, ^.i of the casting s^* The plate Svt also
carries two other projections 5„ s,, which are in contact with
an arm j,. This arm is pivoted to another arm j* fast on the
shaft s^ and cast in one piece with x,; a spring jj, attached to

Pig. 12

JACQUARDS

the arm s» tends to force the upper end of the arm 5. to
the right « thus keeping the projection j, io the slot oC the
segment casting x.. By this means» although the castings, is

loose on the shaft Su
it will communicate to
the latter any motion
received when the
projection s, is en*
gaged with s^, as the
latter is fast to the
shaft. Connected to
the casting j* is a
rod / that is operated
by an eccentric /i on
the crank-shaft of the
loom. The action of
this motion is as fol-
lows; As the eccen-
tric /, revolves with
the cmnk-shaft, the
rod / is alternately
forced up and down,
imparting motion to
the casting J. and con-
sequently, by means
of the connection that
St makes with /„ giv-
ing an oscillating mo-
tion to the shaft j*.
This motion of the
shaft being com-
municated to the rod
//*» Fig* 12, through
the arm St moves the
cylinder ^ in and out.
On its outward movement, the lantern ^, of the cylinder
engages a pawl, or latch, ^„ thus turning the cylinder one-
quarter of a revolution.

Pig. 13

§63

JACQUARDS

The advantage of an independent cylinder motion is that
it is possible, by timing the eccentric^ to bring the cylinder
in against the needle board at any des^ired time; and by
timing this motion correctly, there will be no danger of the
needles being pressed back by the cards during the time
that the hooks are held by the griff.

17. Self-Actlni? Cylinder Mottous,— A self-acting
cylinder motion may be defined as one that is actuated
by some part of the jacquard machine itself; this part is in
almost every case the shde rod that is connected to the griff.

Fm. 14

Figs. 14, 15, and 16 show different types of the self-acting
motion, all of which actuate the cylinder by means of the
rising and falling of the griff*

Referring to Fig. 14, the griff carries a stud on which is a
roller c^ that works in the slot of the casting ;\ known as the
sfvanneck* This swanneck is setscrewed to a rod /, that

JACQUARDS

§63

works in bearings fastened to the side of the maebine and is
connected at one end to the cylinder g. Thus, any vertical
movement of the stud fastened to the griff will give to the
swanneck a horizontal motion, since the lift of the griff is
exactly perpendicular while the slot in which the stud works
is oblique. Moreover, any horizontal movement of the
swanneck will, in turn, be imparted to the rod /,, since
these two parts are securely fastened by the setscrew*
Moving the rod j\ in its bearings will a!so move the cylin-
der,^ in the corresponding direction. Consequently, as the
griff is raised and the stud brought to the upper part of the

FtcJ. 16

slot in- the swanneck, the cylinder will be pushed from]
the needle board; while, on the other hand, as the griff
lowered and the stud brought to the lower end of the slot,
the cylinder will be brought in against the needle board.
With such a motion as this, shown in Fig. 14, the dwell is
given to the cylinder by means of that part of the slot in the j
swanneck that is exactly perpendicular.

18* Fig. 15 shows a cylinder motion that is similar in
principle although slightly different in construction from thatj

§63

JACQUARDS

shown in Fig, 14. In this case the stud on the griff, instead
of carrying a roller working in a slot^ is connected to an
arm j^, as shown at/,, Fulcrumed at /* is a lever that serves
to convert the vertical motion of the arm j\ into a horizontal
motion of the rod /,, which is connected at the point /< to
the cylinder frame. As the arm >. is raised and lowered by
means of the action of the griff, the rod j^ will be moved
back and forth, which will result in the cylinder being alter-
nately moved from, and brought against i the needle board.

19. Fig. 16 illustrates a self-acting motion that contains
an escapement feature not found on any of the motions
previously described* In this motion, the rod /« is connected
at one end to the stud on the griff, while its other end is
connected to a lever consisting of two parts /.»/„ each of
which is fulcrumed at/,. A strong spiral spring /,„ connects
these two parts, causing them to act similar to the levers
shown in previous illustrations of self-acting motions and
convert the vertical motion of the rod /, into a horizontal
motion of the connection /,i. This connection is fastened to
the cylinder frame and, consequently, as it is moved back
and forth, the cylinder will be moved out and in.

The action of this motion is as follows: As the rod /, is
lowered by the action of the griff it will carry with it the
part/,, which, being connected to the arm/, by the spring /i»,
will lower this upper arm and cause /m together with the
cylinder, to be brought in toward the needle board. The
spring /is is sufficiently strong to resist the action of
the needles against the cards; consequently, all those
needles that do not come opposite holes pnncbed in the card
will be pushed back. If, however^ any obstruction comes
between the cylinder and needle board, when the cylinder is
brought in, the spring /,„ will yield and thus prevent the
breakage of any of the parts of the cylinder motion. Since
all cylinder motions must have a certain length of dwell in
order to permit the cards to keep the needles pressed back
until the griff has been lifted above the heads of the hooks,
this mottoQ is set in such a manner that the cylinder will

JACQUARDS

§i

reach the needle board before the rod /• has reached the
limit of its downward stroke- This will cause the spring /,*
to be extended and the two parts /m/i pressed apart* When
the griff begins to rise again, the two arms must be brought

Pitt, IS

together at the point /^ before any movement of the cylinder
can take place, thos allowing the griff to rise above the
heads of those hooks that are to be left dowoi

§63

JACQUARDS

20p On all jacguards, the cylinder is provided with a
motion by which it may be torned back by hand, ia case the
cards are by any means working ahead of their correct posi-
tion, as, for example, when the filling has nin out and the
loom run a pick or more without filling. Such a motion Is
shown in Fig, 17. Con-
nected to the cylinder is
the cylinder head, or
lantern,^,, which is acted
on by a pawl ^i pivoted at
a point i. to a casting k^
that is loosely pivoted
at k^. A spring k^ throws
the upper end of the cast*
ing k^ to the left until the
part k^ that is attached
to the pawl conies in con-
tact with the supports of
the cylinder. When, how-
ever, it is desired to turn
back the cylinder, the
cord k, is pulled down and thus pulls the casting k^, together
with the pawl ^1* to the right, and the pawl ^i engaging with
the lantern ^j turns the cylinder. The position of these parts
when the pawl ^, is in contact with the lantern g^ is shown by
the dotted lines in Fig. 17.

Pio. 17

21. Another type of reversing motion is shown in Figs, 12
and 13. In this case, when it is desired to turn the cylinder
independently of the loom, the lower ends of the arms s^, u are
pressed together, against the tension of the spring ^ ,oi Fig< 13.
When this is done, the arm j. will assume the position shown
by the dotted lines, thus moving the plate 5,, to the left and
disengaging the projection 5, from the slot in the segment
casting j|. Then by drawing the lower ends of the arms ^t, j*
first to the right and then to the left the shaft ^i will be turned,
thus operating the cylinder g. Fig. 12. This action alone
turns the cylinder in the same direction that it is turned while

S4 JACQUARDS fO

the loom is mnning, but in case it is desired to reverse the
motion of the cylinder, the cord k, is drawn down, irtndi
raises the pawl k^ into contact with the lantern ^« of the cyl-
inder g. At the same time that the pawl k^ is raised, a rod i,
that rests on the pawl kt will be brons^ht into contact with
the pawl jf„ raising it out of contact with the cylinder; coose-
qnently, if the handle formed by the arms f«, s^ ¥iz- 13, is
moved when the pawls are in this position, the cylinder will
be tamed in the opposite direction to that in which it moves
when the machine is mnniDg:. It is not advisable at any time,
under ordinary conditions, to turn the loom backwards.

22. Card Cradles. — Owingf to the larg^e number of
cards necessary on the jacquard machine, considerable strain
would be brought on the cylinder if it were obli^^ed to
sustain their entire weight. It is also even more imiK>rtant
that some provision should be made for assembling and
keeping the bulk of the cards in a convenient position so
that they may be taken by the cylinder in proper rotation
and presented to the needles.

In order to accomplish this to the best advantage, a card
cradle similar to that shoi!\'n in Fig. 18 is generally used.
The cards as they fall from the cylinder g pass over a roll /,
and then between the beams /„ /. on which the jacquard
machine is placed. Attached to these beams are two curved
iron rods /, /. so adjusted that the distance between them is
only very slightly in excess of the lensjth of a card. Wires /.
slightly lonjjer than the cards are attached to the set of cards
at regular intervals, generally a wire at about every four-
teenth, sixteenth, or twentieth card. After the cards pass
over the roll /„ they fall between / and /,; but when a wire
reaches these rods its ends rest on them, thereby sup-
porting the cards. As the cards are taken by the cylinder,
the wires /« pass beyond the rods /, /,, the cards passing over
the roll /a to the cylinder .^.

23. The pegs^;^,, Fig. 2, inserted in the cylinder so as to
pass through the peg holes in the card and thus insure its
occupying the correct position, are sometimes permanently

§63

JACQUARDS

fastened to the cylinder; but since in such cases it is
impossible to adjust ihem so that the holes in the card will
correspond exactly to the holes in the cylinder, this practice
is not to be recommended. They should rather be attached

F*G. 18

to a socket or plate, set into the cylinder, in such a manner
that they may be adjusted to meet the requiremeots of
the cards.

26 JACQUARDS S68

Owing to the speed at which the cylinder of a jacqnatd
rotates, and because of its somewhat irregular, or jerky,
movement, certain appliances are added for the purpose of
keeping the cards in place on the cylinder. Referring to
Fig. 2, as the cards are brought up to the cylinder they pass
beneath a roll /, and two springs f «, f ,. These springs are
so bent as to press each new card on to the cylinder so that
its peg holes will engage the pegs^, and be pushed down on
them instead of riding on the top of the pegs, as they would
otherwise be liable to do. In addition to the pegs gx for
keeping the cards in place on the cylinder, two springs f , ft
are also provided for the purpose of pressing the card firmly
in place on the face of the cylinder as the latter is brought in
to the needles.

Some device must also be provided so that the cards will
be positively removed from the cylinder after they have
been presented to the needles, since otherwise they would be
liable to stick on the pegs and be wound around the cylinder.
One such device is shown in Fig. 2, and consists of two
bands /., u running around the cylinder and around two loose
whorls {., {'•. As the cylinder rotates, these bands force the
card to leave the pegs and fall into the cradle.

RISE-AND-FAI^L. MOTION

24. Disadvanttiiire of Sin|2rle-Ijift Jacquard. — One of

the disadvantages of the ordinary single-lift jacquard is that
all the warp yarn must be brought level at the bottom of the
shed before the next shed can be formed. This necessitates
considerable loss of time, and as a result the loom must be
run at a much slower speed than is possible with open
shedding. Various attempts have been made to overcome
this defect, and at the present time many machines are made
that claim to overcome this fault.

25. The rlse-nnd-fall motion. Fig. 19, is frequently
applied to jacquard machines for this purpose. When the
hooks are not raised by the jrriff, they are supported by the
grating b. Fig. 3, through which the lower ends of the hooks

183

JACQUARDS

pass. The object of the rise-and-fall motion is to lower this

grating at the same time that the griff is raised, and vice
versa » thus producing a split shed^ since the yarn becomes
level at the center of the shed. Referring to Fig. 19» the
griff c is raised and lowered by the connecting-rod w,, which
is attached to the lever mi the rod r. is connected to the

griff €, and consequently rises and falls with it* The action
of these parts is very similar to the action of the griff in the
ordinary single-lift machine. In this machine, however, the
grating b. Fig, 19, instead of being stationary, slides on
the rod f,, motion being imparted to it by the rod m^, which

JACQUARDS

is acted on by the elbow lever m^ attached to the lever m by
means of the connection m^. The connections from the ^
lever m to the griff e and grating d are therefore jiucb that as
the gtiff is raised the grating will be lowered; while, on the
other hand, as the grtff is lowered the grating %vill be rained*
Thus the hooks that are caught by the griff will be lifted as
the griff is raised, while the other hooks will be lowered,
through the action of the grating.

This motion has found considerable favor and is easier on
the yarn than the ordinary single-lift machine, since in form*
^_, ing a shed the yarn

J5'*TS^— r-'-C-IX^ passes through only

!y V '\[ \l \]"^r^^'\' ^^^^ ^'^^ distance that is
^^" ^*^— ^— M.^^-11^ — ^y-_^\i necessary with a single-
lift machine.

2ti. Anjuru1ar-Stie<l
Motion,— To the rise-

and*fall jacquard ma-
chine, there is some-
times attached a motion
kno\%ia as the nn^iiljir*
shed niotlotif shown
in Fig, 20, Its object
is to raise the hooks at
the back of tile machine
higher than those
nearer the front. As
the mail eyes in the

Fia.2D

harness lines controlled by the rear hooks are farther from
the cloth being woven than the mail eyes connected with the
front hooks, the additional lift given to the rear mail eyes
provides a means of keeping the warp ends in the top shed
in the same plane when lifted. The griff r, instead of being
firmly attached to the lifting rod f., swings on a stud w,
that is carried by the rod r „ Connected to the griff c is a
casting tr that carries a loop Hi in which works a bowl «, car*
ried by a stud fit. The bowl w* and stud #it are of course

JACQUARDS

stationary, beingr attached to the frame of the machine, while
the easting h and collar n^ rise and fall with the griff i^,
Owin^ to the shape of the collar a,, as the griif is raised it
will be turned slightly on the stud «„, the position that it
assumes when up beingf shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 20.
In this manner the knives at the back of the griff are given
a greater lift than those at the front. The nuts n^, fu.
Fig. 20, are simply adjusting nuts, by means of which the
griff € may be given its correct position*

DOUBLE-LIFT JACQUARDS

H ^DOUBLE-I.IFT SINGLE-CYLINDER JACQUABI>

" 27. The Griffs*— The construction of a double-lift
juniimril is such as does tiot necessitate all the warp 3'am
being^ brought level before coniniencing to form a new shed.
In order to accomplish this, two griffs are employed, one

Fm. n

dng raised on one pick and the other on the next pick-
The manner of arranging^ this part of the machine is shown
in Fig* 21, in which p is the framework of one griff and p^ the

JACQUARDS

Ses

framework of the other. The griS knives A ^re fagtened
directly to the framework p^ while the knives A ^^^ fastened
to arms >• that extend from the framework A* 'I^is method
of connecting the s:riff knives is adopted in order to allow
them to pass each other, as is necessary when one set of
knives is raised and the other lowered. The arms /. must
be long enough to allow the two griffs to pass each other
sufficiently to form the desired size of shed without having
the knives of the griff / come in contact with the frame-
work of the griff /,. The rods A, p., Fig. 21» which are
duplicated on the other side of the machine, are slide rods to

9, keep the two griffs
steady when rising
and falling.

The griffs are
raised and lowered
by means of two lev-
ers placed side by
side, each of which is
very similar to the
lever that actuates
the griff of a single-
cylinder jacquard.
These levers re-
ceive their motion
from two rods ^, ^„
Fig. 22, that are con-
nected to a double
crank ^., ^,. The crank is fastened to the end of the cam-
shaft ^4 of the loom; consequently, it makes one complete
revolution while the loom is making two picks, the rod g
lifting one griff on one pick and the rod gx lifting the other
griff on the next pick.

'=w

Pig. 22

28. The Hooks and Needles. — As it is often desired
to raise certain ends on two or more successive picks, a dif-
ferent arrangement of hooks from that described must be
adopted in a double-lift jacquard, since with this machine if

r63

JACQUARUS

a hook is raised on one pick, it must necessarily drop with
its griff and lower Ibe ends controlled by it on the next pick.
To obviate this difficulty, two hooks are used in a double-lift

machine, each controlling the same ends as one hook in a
sing^le-lift jacquard and being operated by one needle in the

32 JACQUARDS 868

case of a single-cylinder double-lift machine; consequently,
in a double-lift single-cylinder machine there are twice as
many hooks as in a single-lift jacquard of the same capacity,
although the number of needles is the same in both instances.
The arrangement of the needles and hooks and also the neck

i cords of a double-lift single-cylinder jacquard is

shown in Pig. 23.

Since each alternate hook is controlled by one
gri£E while the remaining hooks are controlled by
the other griff, and since the action of the two
hooks is governed by a single needle, the ends
I I controlled by these hooks may be raised on any
I I pick as desired, regardless of which griff is raised.
For example, consider the ends operated by the
two hooks a, a., Fig. 23, which are controlled by
the needle d. The hook a is raised when desired
by the griff blade r„ while the hook a, is raised by
the blade r.,. If the blade Cx is down and there is
a hole in the pattern card to allow the needle d
to pass through, the hook a and, consequently, the
ends that it controls will be raised when the griff
is lifted. On the other hand, if the blade ri, is
down and a hole in the pattern card for the next
pick comes opposite needle d and allows it to pass
through, the hook a, will be caught and raised by
this blade, and the same ends will be again lifted.

29. The Neck Cord. — Fig. 24 illustrates one
manner in which the neck cords are attached to
the harness lines on a double-lift jacquard. The
neck cord shown in this illustration consists of two
parts, one part being attached to one hook and
the other part attached to the other hook of the
pair that controls the same harness lines. When one hook is
raised by its griff, the neck cord attached to that hook will, of
course, become tight, while the neck cord attached to the other
hook will become slack. This position is shown in Fig. 24.
When both hooks are down, both neck cords become tight.

§63

JACQUARDS

Another method of connecting the neck cord to the hooks
is shown in Fig:, 25. In this case only one neck cord is
necessary, it being: connected to the harness lines in the usual
manner, and also to a small metallic-link arrangement that is
free to slide on the lower bends of the hooks, As one hook
is raised this link will slide up on the
other hook, which will of course remain
down, thus allowing the neck cord to
be lifted by the hook that is raised with-
out interference on the part of the other
hook* With this arrangement a hook is
raised slightly before it starts to lift the
harness lines, since there is a slight loss
of motion due to the turning of the link
arrangement on the hook that is dowTi.

A double-lift jacquard does not form a
true open shed, but what is known as a
coinpoiiiid Khed. As shown in Figs. 23
and 24 J if the same harnesses are to be
lifted on two consecutive pickSj the neck
cord attached to the hook that is raised on
the first pick will drop to the center of the
shed before the neck cord tliat is to lift the
harness on the second pick becomes tight;
consequently, in this form of shedding there
exists a stationary bottom shed, but at every
pick the top shed is lowered to the center
and those harnesses that were raised on the previous pick
and that are required to be raised on the next pick are again
lifted to the top, while those that are required to be down on
the next pick continue their movement to the bottom shed,
A similar action occurs with the link arrangement shown in
Fig. 25 as when two neck cords are used.

Fig. 26

30, Before the style of griff shown in Fig. 21 was
adopted, the hooks of a double-lift jacquard were made in
two lengths and one griff worked above the other, instead of
the knives of one griff passing through the other as is done

JACQUAR.DS

S68

at present; this arrancrement is shown in Pis. 26. With this
motion, the vibration of the long hooks was so great tfiat
in many cases they were caught up by the knives when
they were intended to remain down and» consequently, tfaiey
were discarded for the shorter hooks, which are much more
certain in their action.

Pio.26

31. Since in a double-lift single-cylinder jacquard one
needle operates two hooks, when the needle is pushed back
by the cylinder one of these hooks is liable to be held by the
griff blade while the other is perfectly free to move. For

§63

JACQUARDS

instance, if the harness controlled by the hook a., shown
raised in Fig. 27, is to remain down on the next pick, the pat-
tern card will press back the hook a^ by means of the needle,
in order that it may escape the griff blade r, when it starts to
lift. Since the hook a, is still on its griff blade ^,. and is also
being pushed back by the needle, considerable strain will be
brought on the needle and hook
unless some escapement device is
provided.

This difficulty is overcome by
making the bottom part of the
hook V shape and having the open-
ing in the grate through which it
passes large enough for its widest
part. This part rests in the grate
when the hook is down and, con-
sequently, when the hook is raised,
there is considerable unoccupied
space in the slot, which allows the
hook to be pushed back by its
needle without bringing any strain
on it, as shown by the dotted lines
in Fig. 27.

32. Speed. — Double-lift sin-
gle-cylinder jacquards can be run
at a much higher rate of speed
than single-lift machines, since the
shed can be formed in much less
time. One difficulty, however, is
the speed at which the cylinder
must move in and out in order to meet the requirements of
the increased speed. For illustration, suppose that a double-
lift single-cylinder jacquard is run at twice the speed of a
single-lift machine (this speed is excessive but will serve to
illustrate the point); the* griffs in both cases will have the
same speed, but the cylinder in the former case must attain
twice the speed that it has in the latter case, since it must

Pio. 27

86 JACQUARDS {63

operate the needles for each griff. This increased speed of
the cylinder tends to Cause the cards to jump off the cylinder
pegs, besides increasing the wear on the different parts; in
order to overcome this defect two cylinders are sometimes
applied to double-lift machines.

DOUBUEB-LIFT IK)UBI.E-CYLINI>SB JACQUARDS

33. The arrangement of the hooks, needles, spring
boxes, and needle boards in a machine that employs two
cylinders is shown in Fig. 28. With this arrangement there
are double the number of hooks and also double the ntmiber
of needles that there are in a single-lift machine. The
cylinders are placed one at each side of the machine, the
griff blades of the two griffs being inclined in opposite
directions and the two sets of hooks that are operated by
these two griffs having their points turned in a suitable man-
ner to meet the requirements of the position of the blades.

In this machine, the hooks are controlled by the needles
in exactly the same manner as in a single-lift machine, but
since there are two sets of hooks, two griffs, two banks of
needles, and two cylinders, one cylinder will act on one set
of needles and hooks on one pick, and the other cylinder will
act on the other set of needles and hooks on the next pick.
It is therefore necessary to have a card on one cylinder cut in
a suitable manner for one pick, while a card on the other
cylinder will serve for the next pick. To illustrate this point
more fully, suppose that on the first pick of the weave the
cylinder on the right is brought against the needle board;
then if the holes are cut in this card correctly, the desired
hooks will be lifted by the griff operating this set of hooks,
and those ends that should be up on this pick will be raised,
while the others will remain down. On the next pick the
cylinder at the left will be brought against the needle board
and the card will operate the needles in such a manner as to
lift the ends correctly. Since the first, third, fifth, seventh,
ninth, eleventh, thirteenth, and fifteenth hooks operate the
same ends, respectively, as the second, fourth, sixth, eighth,

§63

JACQUARDS

tenth, twelfth, fourteenth, and sixteenth, it is possible for
either cylinder to control every end in the warp.

When the cylinder at the left is pressing against the needle
board, the griff thai operates the hooks controlled by this set
of needles must, of course, be down ready to engage with

£i

V the hooks that are to be lifted on that pick. On the other
hand, when the cylinder at the right is pressing against the
needle board, the griff that operates the hooks controlled by
this set of needles must be down. The griffs of a double-lift
double-cylinder jacquard operate in exactly the same manner

Pig. 28

88 JACQUARDS 868

as those of a double-lift sins:le-cylinder machine and, conse-
quently, one gritt lifts the hooks on one pick and the other
gritt lifts the hooks on the next pick. Since in this machine
there is one cylinder for each grifft it is necessary for the
cylinders to travel at. only half the speed of the cylinder on
a double-lift single-cylinder jacquard. This is the chief
advantage of this style of construction.

34. A difficulty that must be contended with when
weaving on a double-lift double-cylinder jacquard is the
liability of one cylinder getting ahead of the other. Since
the first card on one cylinder operates the hooks on the first
pick and the first card on the other cylinder operates the
hooks on the next pick, this alternate use of the cylinders
being continued throughout all the cards on both cylinders,
if a card on one of the cylinders is skipped (which is spoken
of as one cylinder getting ahead of the other), the cards will
not be brought against the needle boards in proper rota-
tion, and the warp ends will not be raised and lowered cor-
rectly to form the desired weave. This is the principal
drawback to a double-cylinder machine, and by some manu-
facturers is considered of so much importance that they prefer
the single-cylinder to the double, notwithstanding the high
speed at which the cylinder must run when it is necessary to
operate the needles for two griffs.

FIXING AND SETTING JACQUARDS

FILLING SKIPPING

35. Jacquard machines, like all other weaving mecha-
nisms, require constant attention to keep them in perfect
working order, and they are also liable to certain defects that
do not occur with other shedding arrangements. One of the
principal difficulties is known as fllllni?, or shuttle, skip-
ping, or flyiniir over, the terms meaning that the shuttle in
passing from one box to another passes over a number of
ends in each repeat of the pattern that it should have passed

JACQUARDS

under, each pattern in the width of the cloth showing esiactl^r
the same defect. There are many causes of shuttle skipping^*
one of the most important being that one or both of the peg
holes is enlarged by the card being broken or worn, so that
It is not held in the correct position on the cylinder. In this
case some of the needles that should remain undisturbed are
pushed back, because the holes in the cylinder are partially
covered by the cardj consequently, some of the hooks that
should be lifted by the griff are pressed away from the knives
and remain down, thus causing the ends that are operated
by such hooks to remain in the lower shed instead of being
raised so as to allow the shuttle to pass under them.

The peg holes are often broken by the cards having an
irregular movement given them by the cylinder, which
causes them to jump so that they do not engage with the
pegs properly as they are taken by the cylinder. Broken
peg holes are also caused by a broken lacing. In this case,
when the cylinder is turned^ the cards rest on it in whatever
position they happen to be. If the lacing is very slack, this
is liable to occur, even if it is not actually broken. If one
of the springs that presses the card on the cylinder becomes
broken, the card slides away from the cylinder slightly on
the peg, owing to the latter being tapered, and when the
card comes against the needles the peg hole is liable to be
enlarged as the card is forced back close to the cylinder
again. Sometimes the wires that are placed in the set of
cards to hold them in the cradle will drop between the bars
of the cradle and become caught so that as the cylinder takes
the cards a great strain is brought on them. This will often
draw the cards off the cylinder pegs, and when the cylinder
moves in to the needle board the card is broken by the peg-
If any of the cylinder pegs are loose, it is very evident that
they are liable to be displaced and break the cards. Some-
times, also, the blades of the griff are not set close enough to
the hooks, which of course causes the griff to miss them
when they should be caught and raised. Often the cards of
a set will not be uniform because they have been cut on
different machines or because new and old cards are used in

40 JACQUARDS

the same set. This will often cause certain cards to partially
cover the holes in the cylinder and thus push the needles
back so that the hooks will miss the fi^riff. Sometimes the
needle board will become loose and drop out of place
slisrhtly, thus causing the needles to bind so that they will
not return the hook into position to be raised.

HOOKS MISSING, OR STITCHING

36. The defect known as stltclilngr« or hooks miss-

IngTv results when one or more hooks fail to be engaged and
raised by the griff when they should. The efffect of this in
the cloth is that the ends controlled by those hooks remain
down, when in reality they should be raised. This is some*
what similar to shuttle skipping, but in the latter case,
usually a number of hooks fail to be caught by the griff,
whereas stitching is generally the effect of only one or a few
hooks failing to work properly.

There are a number of causes of this difficulty; one of the
most important is that the needle operating the particular
hook that is missing is bent so that when pressed back by the
cylinder it binds in the needle board, and as the spring on that
needle is of insufficient power to force it out again, the hook
remains off the griff, and the warp ends controlled by it
remain under the filling.

Sometimes the needle board becomes filled with gummy
oil and dirt, so that the needles do not work freely in it, and
are thus liable to be caught. Another cause is a broken needle
spring. The spring also may be an old one and so worn that
it is not strong enough to press back the needle. Sometimes
stitching is caused by one of the pattern-card holes not being
cleanly punched; thus, as the needle comes in contact with
the card, the punched portion is forced into the hole of the
cylinder, which will sometimes result in the needle being
pressed back every time that side of the cylinder is brought
in to tie needles.

If a hook is bent back, it is liable to miss the griff and
cause the ends controlled by it to weave under when they

JACQUARDS

should be raised. Whenever books that should be lifted are
being left down, a g^ood method of determining whether the
needles are coming; against the card at the correct position is
to rub a little black oil over their points and then bring the
cylinder against the needle board. The points of the needles
when treated in this manner will mark the card, and by no tic*
ing the places at which these marks come it can readily be
determined if any of the needles are not passing through their

I holes in the cards.

ENDS FLOATING ON FACE OF CLOTH
37. Ends floating on the face of the cloth is a defect
eaused by hooks being engaged by the griff and raised when
they should remain down, thus resulting in the ends con-
trolled by such hooks being raised, whereas in stitching the
ends are lowered, since the hooks fail to be caught by the
griff. This is sometimes caused by vibration of the hooks,
and sometimes by the blades of the griff being set too close
to the hooks.

Again, some part of the cylinder mechanism may be loose
or may have slipped so that there is sufficient lost motion to
result in the cylinder failing to press some of the hooks clear
of the griff. If a hook is bent forwards, it will be caught by
the griff and raised when it should remain down.

The grate may become loose and slip slightly out of place,
which in the case of a double-lift double-cylinder machine
will cause the hooks of alternate rows to be caught on the
blades of the griff, while the hooks in the other rows will
miss the griff and fail to be lifted*

Atmospheric conditions cause the harness lines to shrink or
lengthen slightly; in the former case this causes ends to remain
above the filling when they should be below, and vice versa in

re latter case*

CROWNING HOOICS
38» When the griff in descending strikes the tops o" the
hooks, it bends them, i, e,, crowns them. There are several
causes of this. Sometimes the grate Is not in the correct

42 JACQUARDS S6S

position, and sometimes the griff itself is not set stnigbt
Again, hooks may be crowned by the cylinder striking in too
hard; this causes the hooks to vibrate, and in a double-lift
machine, when the other griff descends, they will catdi under
the blade. Sometimes, also, the cylinder by coming in against
the needles comerwise will cause the hooks to be crowned.

TIMING THS GBOT

39. The griffs of a jacquard correspond to the knives of
a dobby or to the harness cams of a plain loom, and, conse-
quently, making allowance for the difference of construction,
the timing and setting is regulated by the same principles
that apply to corresponding parts on other looms. When
shedding by means of cams, it is possible to regulate to a
certain extent the speed at which the harnesses rise and fall
and in this manner bring as little strain as possible on the
yam. With jacquards, however, this is not possible, since
there are numerous other motions to be considered that
limit the time of forming the shed.

The shed produced by a jacquard should always be open
when the crank-shaft of the loom reaches its top center, this
being the point at which the loom commences to pick, and
the shed should remain open until the shuttle has passed
through. A good rule for setting this part of the jacquard
machine is to have the shed closed when the crank-shaft is
between its bottom and front centers, and opened to nearly
its fullest extent when the crank-shaft reaches its top center.

Another method of setting the griff is to bring the lay up
until it is about 1 inch from the fell of the cloth and then set
the griff in such a manner that it will be at its lowest posi-
tion, if the jacquard is a single-lift machine. This setting is
for general work; if it is desired to produce cover on the
cloth, the griff should be down when the lay is about
la inches from the fell of the cloth. Whatever setting of
the griff is made, the pick should be so regulated that the
shed will be well opened by the time the shuttle enters it.
The griff may be placed in any desired position by changing

§63 JACQUARDS 43

the position of the eccentric operating the lever that raises and
lowers it, or if this lever is operated by cranks, these may be
turned on the shaft until the desired position of the griff is
obtained. In setting the griffs of a double-lift jacquard the lay
of the loom should first be placed in the desired position, as
previously explained, and the knives of the griffs then adjusted
so that they are level with, or just passing, each other.

When the knives of the griff are in their lowest positions,
the upper curved parts of the hooks should be about i inch
above the knives. Those hooks that are to be lifted should
have their upper curved parts directly over the griff knives,
to insure their being caught by the knives when rising, while
the hooks that are not to rise should be pressed back by the
needles until they are about A or i inch away from the
knives, and should be kept in this position until the latter
have risen above the heads of the hooks. This last point —
namely, keeping the hooks pressed back until the griff knives
have risej^ above them — depends on the dwell given to the
cylinder while against the needle board and, consequently,
is more closely connected with the action of the cylinder.

TIMING AND SETTING THE CYLINDER

40. In timing the cylinder, two points should receive
careful attention: (1) The cylinder should not be brought
against the needle board until the griff knives in descending
have passed below the heads of the hooks; otherwise, the
needles controlling those hooks that are on the descending
knives but are not required to be lifted on the next pick are
liable to puncture the cards, since there are no holes punched
at the points where they strike the cards. (2) The cylinder
should have sufficient dwell when against the needle board
to insure the knives of the griff being lifted above the heads
of the hooks before the pressure of the card against the
needles is removed. If the cylinder should start to leave
the needle board before the knives were above the heads of
the hooks, some of the hooks that should remain down
might be caught and lifted by the griff.

»1 -31

JACQUARDS

§68

ffli 1 1^ L-j^

■

MlM

Fig. 29

y*i4

The tops of the hooks of the row nearest the needle board
are not pushed back by the cylinder as far as those hooks
farther from it, and therefore the former are much more liable
to be caught by the blades of the gritt when they should
- remain down. The reason for this is illustrated in Fic^. 29,
which shows one row of needles and the hooks to which they
are connected. The top needle dt controls the front hook «•,
while the bottom needle d» controls the back hook a«. The
distance x from the top of the hook a» to the point where

the needle dt is con-
nected to it is less
than the distance y
from the top of the
hook a. to the point
where the needle i/.
is connected; con-
sequently, as the
cylinder presses
both di and d^ back
equally, the top of
the hook a. will be
moved a sn'cater dis-
tance than the top
of the hook rt„ and
thus will not be so
apt to catch on the
griff when it should
remain down.

With an independ-
ent cylinder motion,
the cylinder can be timed with reference to the griff
independent of the movement of the latter, so as to bring
the cylinder against the needles at the exact time desired.
This is accomplished by altering the position of the eccentric,
or crank, that actuates the cylinder.

With self-acting motions, in which the cylinder is actuated
by the rise and fall of the griff, the position of the cylinder
will of course be directly dependent on the position of the

§63

JACQUARDS

griff. The relative position, however, of the cylinder when
brought against the needle board may be regulated by
means of the adjustable rod j\, Fig. 16. With self-acting
motions, such as that shown in Fig. 14, this position of the
cylinder may be regulated by adjusting the swnnneck / on
the rod j\. If the cylinder is brought against the needle
board in time for the card to mal^e the proper selection of
the hooks, and remains in this position until the knives
of the griff have risen slightly above the heads of the hooks,
there should be no difficulty with these different parts*

41. When setting the different parts of the cylinder
motion, the pawl that turns the cylinder should be in a cor-
rect position to give to it a full quarter-turn; otherwise, the
cylinder is liable to be brought against the needle board
cornerwisei which is sure to result in a mispick, and possible
bending of the needles. This is also liable to cause the
hooks to be bentj since if the cylinder comes in cornerwisei
it reaches the needles sooner and thus moves some of the
hooks before the griff reaches its lowest posrition; the griff
is therefore liable to come down on top of these hooks and
bend them. The timing of the rotary motion of the cylinder
may be regulated by changing the position of the pawl. If
the pawl is so set that the cylinder wiU start to turn too
soon, the cards are liable to catch on the needles and be torn
by them as the corner of the cylinder passes; if the pawl is
set too far from the frame of the machine, the cylinder is
liable to be given only a partial movement. The cylinder
may be made to move farther from the needle board as it
travels out, thus insuring a complete movement being given
it by the pawl, but the farther the cylinder is made to travel
from the needle board, the faster it must move, and this is
a disadvantage. To further insure a complete movement
of the cylinder so that it will be brought squarely against
the needle board, a safety pawl jf*, Fig, 2, is added to most
jacquard machines. This safety pawl is so set that in case
the cylinder is only partly moved it will strike against the
pawl and. since the pawl cannot move inwards, the cylinder

JACQUARDS

168

must be pushed over, thus preventing the comer of the
cylinder strikinc^ the needles.

The cylinder mu^t also be adjusted in such a manner that
the needles will pass directly throuch the centers of the holes
in the cylinder when it is brought against the needle board.
For this purpose provision is made for raising the whole
cylinder gate if a vertical adjustment is required, but hori-
zontal adjustments are made by moving the cylinder itself,
either to the right or left, as required.

42. Jacquard machines are made with a widely varying
number of hooks and needles. Table I shows the standard
sizes of these machines.

TABIiB I

Size of Machine

Hooks in Short Row

Hooks in Long Row

200

300

400

800

104

500

1,000

104

300

600

900

1,200

104

1,800

156

In each of the above machines it will be noticed that the
total number of hooks obtained by multiplying the number
of hooks in the short row by the number of hooks in the long
row is larger than the number given under the size of the
machine. These additional hooks are found on all jacquard
machines and are usually employed in weaving borders and
selvages or left idle.

JACQUARDS

(PART 2)
HARNESS TYING

INTRODUCTION

1. The jacquard machine is placed at a considerable
height (usually about 5 or 6 feet) above the warp in the
loom, the connections between its hooks and the ends of the
warp being made by means of the jacquard harness. Bach
eye through which an end of warp passes is connected, in
the case of a single-lift jacquard, to one hook of the machine,
or, in a double-lift jacquard, to two hooks; this does not
mean, however, that each hook, in the case of a single-lift
machine (or each pair of hooks, in a double-lift machine),
operates only one end of warp, for the harness lines control-
ling either one or several ends may be attached to each
neck cord.

The name harness tying: is usually applied not merely to
the actual operation of tying the various threads that form the
harness, but to the subject generally, which involves, in addi-
tion to the actual making of the connections, everything rela-
ting thereto, including, principally: (1) the position of the
jacquard machine over the loom; (2) the method of number-
ing the hooks in the machine; (3) the order in which the
individual harness lines from the various hooks or groups of
hooks should be connected to the warp threads; (4) the
various plans and calculations that must be made in prepara-
tion for tying up, and a number of minor details as to the

For notiu of copyri£ht, tee page tmmtdiateh following the title Page

2 JACQUARDS §84

methods of makins: variotis connections, building and pre-
paring: the harness, etc.

Althous:h jacquard machines in themselves do not differ
srreatly, the methods of harness tyins: vary considerably, and
it is essential that a thorough understanding of the funda-
mental principles should be obtained, after which it is com*
paratively easy to understand the different methods that are
found, in practice, to provide the best means for manufactur-
ing various kinds of jacquard fabrics.

In considering these various points it should be remem-
bered that a jacquard machine is used to produce fabrics with
relatively extensive patterns, involving a large number of
ends that interlace differently. There may be only one
repeat of the pattern in the width of the fabric; in other
words, every end may be controlled by a separate hook and
interweave differently from every other end. Since in a
double-lift jacquard two hooks are used to operate one neck
cord and the harness lines attached to it, and thus have the
same function as one hook in a single-lift machine, when it
is stated that harness lines are connected to one hook this
will be understood to mean that they are connected to one
hook in the case of a single-lift machine, but in a double-lift
machine to the two hooks operating one neck cord.

In case there is only one repeat of the pattern in the width
of the fabric, the number of ends in the warp cannot exceed
the number of hooks in the machine, since the number of
different interlacings cannot exceed the number of hooks.
Patterns of this kind are usually found only in narrow fabrics;
it is much more common to have several repeats of the pattern
in the width of the fabric. If, for example, the body of the
warp contains 8,200 ends, the cloth is 40 inches wide inside
selvages, and each repeat occupies 5 inches, there will be
8 repeats of the pattern in the width of the cloth. If only
1 end were controlled by each hook, a 400-hook jacquard
would operate only 400 ends, and would therefore weave a
piece of this cloth only 5 inches wide; but by tying 8 harness
lines to the neck cord attached to each hook, selecting those
harness lines that control corresponding ends in each repeat

^64
"fth

JACQUARDS

i the pattern, i, e,, that interlace in a similar raanoer with the
filHngi a 400-hook machine will weave a piece of cloth
40 inches wide containing 3,200 ends and 8 repeats of the
pattern in the width of the cloth. This provides for an imag:i-
oary division of the harness, each division being complete
on 400 ends or harness lines; such an arrangement of the
harness is spoken of as an eighi-division katitess.

\i the same machine is used to weave cloth 40 inches wide
with a warp of 2,000 ends, a pattern 8 inches in width with
5 repeats in the width of the cloth will result, and 5 harness
lines will be controlled by each hook; this arrangement is
spoken of as a five-dhn'swn harness. Thus are obtained the
names iive-divisi&n, six-diviswH, eight'divisicn harnesses, etc.

2. Methods of Bupportlnfr Jacqiiards. — ^Jacquard
machines are usually supported above the loom by two
w^ooden beams placed parallel to each other and far enough
apart to support each side frame of the jacquard. In Fig. 1,
one of these beams /* and a portion A of the frame of the

I * r

FmA

jacquard are shown* A cross-piece h to which the jacquard Is
bolted is secured to brackets /», which are adjustably sup-
ported on the beam /*. By raising or loweripg the brackets 4
the jacquard may be leveled, which is very essential to its

4 JACQUARDS %U

proper woridnc;, or it may be adjusted so as to raise or loirar
the warp line. The beams /« maybe supported either by the
loom itself or by columns or pillars /.«, usually made of nran
pipe, that fit into sockets secured to the floor of the room
and carry brackets, on which the beams rest Braoes A.
are also attached to the beams and to the ceilms ni
the room, thus reducing the vibration to a mimmnm, and
fi^ivins: a firm support for the jacquard machine entirely inde-
pendent of the loom. This is preferable to supporting the
machine from the loom itself, as in the latter case the vibra-
tion of the loom is communicated to the jacquard. Some-
times when a large number of jacquards are used in one
room, a framework of iron girders is built, supported from
the columns that support the roof or floor timbers; this makes
an excellent foundation for the jacquard machines.

A jacquard machine should be placed in a position directly
above the center of the comber board (see Art. 4) through
which the harness lines are passed. This position can be
determined by tying a plumb-line to a hook as near the
center of the jacquard as possible, and so placing the machine
that this line will fall directly to a corresponding point at the
center of the comber board. In case the comber board is not
in the loom, the plumb-line should fall to a point on the
center line of the loom and about 1 inch plus half the width
of the comber board back from the reed cap when the crank-
shaft of the loom is on its back center. The object of
bringing the center of the jacquard machine so near the front
of the loom is to reduce, as much as possible, the lift neces-
sary to produce the size of shed required for the shuttle, since
any extra lift is detrimental to the good weaving of the warp.
The object of having the center of the machine above the
central holes of the comber board is to prevent an unequal
lift of warp at the sides of the loom.

3. The Harness. — One portion of the harness of a
jacquard is shown in Fig. 2; a, is the neck cord, which is
attached to the hook a of the jacquard. Fastened to the
lower end of the neck cord are the harness lines a,, there

JACQUARDS 5

being; as many of these lines attached to each neck
cord as there are repeats of the weave in the width of
the cloth. In this figure 8 harness lines are shown
attached to the neck cord; this is a suitable arrange-
ment, if a repeat of the weave occupies 400 ends, and
there are 3,200 ends in the entire width of the body of
the warp; it gives 8 repeats of the pattern in the width
of the cloth. Each hook of the jacquard will therefore
control 8 harness lines, one from each division of the
harness, and 8 corresponding warp threads, each in a
corresponding position in each pattern of the cloth.
The zigzag Knes a*, shown in the portion of the har-
ness marked a,, indicate where the 8 harness lines are
stitched together. This stitching is for the purpose of
uniting the harness lines into one bunch, so that as
they are raised and lowered the separate lines will not
catch and ride on the knots made by tying the other
harness lines to their respective neck cords.

The harness lines are threaded through the comber
board and support the couplings, which consist of the
top loop, or sleeper, a^. Fig. 2, the mail a„ the bottom
loop, or hanger, a,,, and the lingoe ^i,.

4, The Comber Board. — The comber board is a

long, narrow, perforated board extending from one side
of the loom to the other a few inches above the lay

' and about 1 inch back from the reed cap when the

crank-shaft is on its back center. The object of the
comber board is to spread the harness lines, one har-
ness line passing through each hole of the board. It
also determines the ends per inch in the cloth, since
the number of warp ends to each inch of the reed must
correspond to the number of holes to the inch in the
comber board. There are the same number of holes
in the width of the board as there are hooks in the
a^^ short row of the jacquard being used, while the number
of holes in the length of the board depends on the

pli^. 2 ends per inch in the cloth being woven. For example.

JACQUARDS

864

••*'•'*•»•
•■_*?■?•?*

if the jacquard machine contains 8 hooks in its short rowi
there will be 8 holes in the short row of holes in the comber
board, while if the reed contains 80 ends to the inch, there
will be 10 holes in each inch of the long
row, thus giving 80 holes in the comber
board for each inch lengthwise.

Comber boards are made in various
ways, but for ordinary classes of goods
there are two principal varieties — the
solid and slips. A solid comber board
is shown in Fig. 3. It is usually about
} inch thick and long enough to rest on
brackets screwed to the side frapies of
the loom. The small pieces shown
screwed to the front of the comber
board in Fig. 3 carry the harness lines
controlling the selvage ends and may
be moved to various positions along the
board, so that difEerent-width goods
may be woven by leaving a portion of
the harness at each side without any
ends drawn through it. Comber boards
should be made of some hard wood,
such as beech, maple, or sycamore, and
should be well seasoned in order to
prevent their splitting.

Fig. 4 shows the style of comber
board termed slipH, the name being
derived from the fact that it is built up
of small pieces re',, w„ w^^ from 2 to
3 inches long, which are set in grooved
back and front pieces w, Wt. The prin-
cipal advantage of this comber board
over that shown in Fig. 3 is that the
ends per inch in the cloth can be reduced
without altering the number of hooks
to be used in weaving the design; whereas, with the solid
comber board, if the ends per inch in the cloth is reduced, the

§64

JACQUARDS

number of hooks on which to build the pattern must also be
reduced. With slips* the ends per inch in the cloth is reduced
by placing small pieces of wood between the slips, so as to
spread them. This applies to only very slight changes in the
ends per inch of the goods, since if the slips are separated to

^B 4

^Bny great extent, the angle of the harness lines will be altered
^and an uneven shed produced* It w^ill be noted that this

alters the width of the goods in the same proportion as the

ends per inch of the cloth is changed.

V STYLES OF HARNESS TIES

^" 5* Strali^ht, or Koi*w1uh, Tie, — Although there are a
number of methods of connecting the harness hues to the
hooks of the jacquard machine, all may be divided into two

general classes: the straight, or Norwich, tie and the cross, or
London, tie- When the jacquard machine is placed over the
loom in such a position that the cylinder is directly over
either the warp or the cloth being woven, that is» when it faces
the front or back of the loom, the harnesses are said to have a
Btralgtit tie, since in this case the long rows of hooks in the
machine are parallel with the long rows of holes in the comber
board. Fig. 5 shows the jacquard machine so placed, a com-
plete short row of hooks being shown, but only a few in one
of the long rows* The comber board, together with the
harness lines from the first short row of hooks, is also shown
in this figure, m order to illustrate the manner of passing the

Pi9. 5

§64 JACgUARDS 9

harness lines from the hooks to the comber board in a
straight tie. This figure shows 4 harness lines connected
to each hook, thus indicating that there are 4 repeats of the
pattern in the width of the cloth. The comber board is
divided into four imaginary sections, and the harness lines
from any one hook pass through corresponding holes in each
section. Thus, the harness lines from number / hook pass
through number / holes in the comber board, each of these
holes being the first in its respective section; the h«irness
lines from number 2 hook pass through number 2 holes in
the comber board; the harness lines from number .y hook pass
through number 3 holes in the comber board, and so on.

When a straight tie is used, the cards on the machine hang
either over the front or over the back of the loom. From
the fact that the straight tie is used more commonly in Kng-
land than in America, it is sometimes called the English tie,

6. Cross, OP liondon, Tie. — When the jacquard machine
is so placed above the loom that the cylinder is either at its
right- or left-hand side, as shown in Fig. (>, the harness tie
is said to be a cross, or Lioudon, tie, since in this case the
long rows of hooks in the machine are at right angles to
the long rows of holes in the comber board, thus producing a
partial crossing of the harness lines. In this figure, as in
Fig. 5, the harness lines connected to the short row of hooks
in the machine pass, respectively, to the short row of holes in
the comber board, the harness lines from number / hook
passing through number / holes in the comber board, the
lines from number 2 hook passing through numlxir 2 holes
in the comber board, and so on, the only difference tK:tween
the methods adopted in the two ties being that in the case of
the cross tie the jacfiuard machine is turn^-d one-qnartf:r way
around with relation to the loom. When the cross tie is
used, the cards of the jacquard machine hang either over the
right- or the left-hand side of the loom. The cross tie is
used in America more roinnionly than the straight tie.

In Fig»i. .'i and 0. oriiy -.iff. Men! lifirness liue-. ;ire shown
to indicate the mar.ner wi v/lji'h they arc passed from the

Pio. 6

§64

JACQUARDS

hooks to the comber board, in which only a few holes are
shown, but in practice there are lines connected to all, or
almost all, the hooks, and there are hundreds, sometimes
thousands, of holes in the comber board, each of which has a
line passing through it.

7. With a jacquard placed as shown in Fig. 6, it is neces-
sary to separate the harness lines connected to each long row
of hooks by glass rods :r, in order to equalize the length of
the lift on the harness lines. These rods are supported by a
frame at each end, which contains holes suitably spaced for
the rods to pass through. Thin pieces of wood are secured
to the outside of the x ^
frames to cover the ^-sj^v^^'v
holes and prevent
the rods sliding out.

The object of these
glass rods may be
more fully under-
stood from the fol-
lowing description.
Referring to Fig. 7,
suppose that the
base z^Zt of the tri-
angle Zx Zt Zt is 60
inches and represents
the distance from the
center of the comber
board to the outer-
most hole, while the
side Zx z^ is 72 inches
and represents the
vertical distance from the comber board to the neck cords.
With these two dimensions known, the length of the
side^, ^„ which represents the length of the harness lines
extending to the outermost holes of the comber board, will
be found to be 87.6 inches, by applying the rule for finding
the hypotenuse of a right-angled triangle: Extract the square

Fig. 7

root of the smn of the squares of the length of each short

side {V50' + 72' = 87.(3 inches) <

Suppose that the hook to which these harness Hoes are
connected is raised Si inches. Then the distance from the
comber board to the neck cords will be represented by ^j^*,
which will be 72 H- 3i = 7bi inches in length. The length
of the side z^ s, will be 90,5 inches ( V50' + 75i* ^ 90.5) , The
difference in the lengths of the sides ^i^^,,, ^, sr, (90.5 — 87.6
= 2.9 inches) will represent the distance through which the
ontermost end is raised. Subtracting this result from the
distance through which the center thread is raised, it is found
that the outer thread loses .6 inch {3.5 — 2.9 = .6).

Bjr inserting glass rods x. Fig:, 6, the angle made by the
harness lines at this place is prevented from changing, thus
insuring the same amount of lift being given to the harness
lines throughout the width of the comber board.

BUILDING THE HARNESSES

8, Before commencing to prepare any part of the bar-
ness for the jacquard machine, two important points should
be taken into consideration: (1) As considerable expense
is incurred in preparing the harness and connecting it to the
hooks of the jacquard machine, it is undesirable to change
the tie when a fabric of a diifferent construction is desired;
consequently, the arrangement of the tie and the ends per
inch in the cloth should be determined before preparing the
harness lines. The class of tie employed is governed
largely by the class of goods to be manufactured, while
the number of ends per inch adopted is generally the highest
that is used in any class of jacquard goods manufactured
by the mill, since it is impossible to increase the ends
per inch to any extent after the harnesses have been tied
up, although they may be decreased within certain limits.
(2) The number of hooks to be used should be carefully
determined. That number should be s%lected that will give
the best variety of ground weaves. To illustrate this point,
suppose that a 400-hook machine is to be used and it is

§64 JACQUARDS 18

desired to determine a number that may be employed to the
best advantage. The total number of hooks in a 400-hook
machine is 416, and, consequently, it is possible to employ
any number of hooks not s^reater than this. At first it
would seem natural to use every hook in the machine, in
order to obtain the largest possible pattern. This, how-
ever, would be a disadvantage and would seriously handicap
the person making out the designs, since he would be
limited to a certain class of weaves for the ground; conse-
quently, in selecting the number of hooks to be used it is
better to take the number that will give the best variety of
small numbers as factors.

If 416 hooks are employed, it will be found that for
ground weaves complete on 16 ends or less, weaves must
be used that are complete on either 2, 4, 8, 13, or 16 ends,
since these numbers are the only ones under 16 that arc
factors of 416; if 400 hooks are used, weaves complete on
2, 4, 5, 8, 10, or 16 ends may be employed for the ground
weave. Thus, with 416 hooks, weaves complete on only
five different numbers of ends may be employed for the
ground weaves, while with 400 hooks, weaves complete on
six different numbers of ends may be used. With such a
machine, it is preferable in most cases to employ 4(X) hooks,
since with this number complete rows of hooks arc obtained
in the machine, and an added reason is that 5 is a factor of
400, and weaves complete on this number of ends arc very
largely used for ground weaves in jacquard designs, the
5-end satin being a very popular weave.

When the total number of hooks in a jacquard machine is
not employed for working the regular harness, some or all
of the additional hooks may be used, if desired, for selvage
or a narrow border; in this case the 16 additional hookn
could be utilized in this manner. Usually only two of the
extra hooks are employed for the selvages.

91-32

THE COUPLINGS

, I r the number of hooks to be employed in tying

p the hill iiesses and the style of tie have been determined,

is necessary to prepare the different parts of the harness*

These parts are generally prepared separately and away

From the jacquard machine itself, after which they are taken

3 the machine and connected to the hooks* The couplings

: the jacquard harness, which consist of all the parts below

! harness lines, that is, the t'^" loop, the mail, the bottom

, and the Hngoe, are in some cases prepared by the

ai ine bulkier, since the difference in the cost of buyiDg

jx ready-made and preparing them at the mill is very

It, especially if the mill does not have men experienced

.jis line of work. It is necessary in every case to buy

e mails and the lingoes*

The mail a^, Fig, 2, is made of either brass, steely or glass,
and contains three holes* The warp end passes through the
center hole, which is the largest and is either round or
elliptic in shape. The lingoe is a piece of heavy wire, the
weight of which depends chiefly on the width of the harness
in the comber board and the counts, or the number^ of the
yam being woven; the coarser the yarn, the heavier should
be the lingoe. Lingoes should be perfectly straight. The
top and bottom loops of the couplings are connected, respect-
ively, to the top and bottom holes of the mail; these are
short loops of linen twine, usually a little finer and of a bet-
ter quality than the cord used for the harness lines.

10. Fig. 8 (a) shows a good method of attaching the top
and bottom loops to the mail. A number of mails are
threaded on a wire v that is made the same shape as the
center hole, so that the top and bottom holes in the mail eye
will be exactly in line. This wire, which should be only about
12 inches long, is supported by two stands v^^v^. At one
side are placed the stands v» that support the spool v.,
on which is wound the twine that is to form the top and
bottom loops. When the different parts are in position, the

§64

JACQUARDS

end of the twine from the spool z\ is stiffened slightly with
wax and passed through the eyes at one end of the mails; it
is then made fast to the peg v^, which is placed a sufficient
distance from the wire v to give the desired length of loop>
The hook, Fig, 8 (d), is then passed between the two mails
at the left and the twine drawn from between them and
looped over the peg v^. This operation is repeated until the

Pig. 8

twine is taken from between each two mails, after which they
are reversed and the twine passed through the holes in the
other ends in the same way^ to form the other loops. The
threads are all cut at the end that passes around the peg and,
if they are to form the top loops, the ends from each mail are
tied together, while if for the bottom loops, the twine is tied
to the lingoe.

In preparing the loops in this manner, care should be taken
not to employ too many mails at one time, since in this case
the angle formed by passing the twine from the mails at the
outer edges of the wire v will cause the loops to be longer
than those in the center, thus giving a different length of
loop for certain of the mails. To avoid this, a horizon lal peg
mounted on a stand so as to be parallel to v is sometimes used

JACQUARDS

instead of the vertical peg v^. After the coupHngs have been
prepared in this manner, they should be twisted^ this is accom-
plished by hanging them from a rod, giving: them a coat of
flour paste, and then rolling the Hngoes over the knee, taking
three or fonr at a time, after which the couplings are var-
nished. In some cases they are not varnished at this sta^e,
as it is sometimes done after they are placed in the loom.

PBEFARING HARNESS LINES

11, The size of the harness lines Hn Fig, 2, is optional
with the manufacUirerSt some using a light-weight and others
a heavy line- A twine of about f5-p1y 20s or 5-ply 30s linen
makes a satisfactory line for use on such fabrics as dress
goods, where the number of ends per inch ranges from 64 to
120. In many cases, however, a fine linen cable cord is
used for this class of goods, while on wide looms, such as

J3L.

tfa

Fig 2

for bedspreads, and on goods of compara-
tively few ends per inch, such as carpets, a
good linen cable cord is almost always used*
For heavier harness lines, coixespondingly
heavy lingoes must be used, in order to
overcome the tendency of the lines to sag
between the hooks and the comber board.
Before preparing the harness lines, the
necessary number must be ascertained. To
illustrate this point, suppose that 400 hooks are being used,
that the pattern repeats on 400 ends, and that there are
8 repeats of the pattern in the width of the goods, which
would necessitate 8 harness lines being connected to each
hook; the number of harness lines would consequently be
3,200 (400X8 = 3,200). To prepare these harness lines
four spools of twine, as shown at yy yi, y^, y,, Fig. 9, are
placed in the stand y^, from which the ends may be readily

§64

JACQUARDS

unwound. In close proximity to the stand is placed a

board j-, containing three pegs y., y^, %j the peg y^ is
adjustable and is placed in such a position that the distance
between it and the peg >» will be equal to the distance from

Bthe top loop of the coupling to the neck cord plus about
6 inches for tying purposes* The ends from the spools are
first passed under the peg j',^ then under y,, around ^^^^ over j,,
and back again to y»; this will give with each operation 8 har-
ness lines, the number required to be tied to each hook of the
machine. This operation is repeated 400 times in order to
obtain the required number of harness lines. ^

By passing the twines around the pegs j*. j\ in the manner
descnbed» a lease is formed, and before taking the twines
from the pegs a string is
passed through this lease so
that when the harness lines

^k are 'being connected to the
hooks the different bunches
may be readily separated; the
twines are cut at the point
where they pass around the
peg y^. The loop at the
other end of the harness
lines, that is, the part that
passes around the peg j%, is

Hthe part that Is connected
to the neck cord, which is at-
tached to the hook of the
jacquard* Each of the eight
loose ends is of course at-
tached to the upper loop of
its respective coupling,

V 12. Methods of Fast-
en tugr Harness Xilnes.^ — In
order to prevent the lines being caught, during the weaving
process, on the knot formed by tying them with the neck
cord, it is necessary to closely fasten each bunch of harness

ogcther ne^ the end attached to the neck cords*

;r one of two methods is commonly adopted to accom-

iti this, namely » stitching or knotting When a straight

is employedj Fig, 5, each bunch of harness lines is stitched,

giving a flat, straight surface, as shown in Fig, 10 (a). This

IS accomplished, as indicated by the black lines, by passing

ickwards and forwards several times, through the centers of

^e harness lines ^ a needle threaded with linen twine; the har-

ss tines are afterwardf? varnished at this point, in order to

d the stitches firmly. For cro'*'^ ties, Fig. 6, each bunch of

,rnes$ Hues is knotted as shown in Fig. 10 (b). In order

actually to prevent the harness lines from catching on the

jts of the neck cords, the distance from the neck cord to

knot or stitches in the. harness line should be equal, at

ist, to the height of the shed; consequently, from 3 to

'nches from the point of connection with the neck cord may

e assumed as the correct position at which to place the knot

: the stitches. In order to assure their being even, two pegs

aiiould be driven into a bench the required distance apart, the

loop of the harness lines passed around one of these, and the

knot or stitches so placed that they will be opposite the other.

TYING HARNESS I.INE8 TO NECK CORDS

13. After the harness lines and the couplings have been
prepared, it is next necessary to attach them to the hooks of
the jacquard machine. The harness lines are first tied to
the neck cords. In some cases this operation is performed
after the machine has been placed in position above the
loom, while in other cases the lines are attached to the neck
cords before the machine is placed in its position. The
latter plan is easier for the person performing the operation,
since when tying the harness lines to the neck cords after
the machine has been placed in position he must constantly
look upwards, which makes the operation somewhat incon-
venient.

In case the harness lines are attached to the neck cords
when the machine is not in position, the jacquard is placed

JACQUARDS

in some suitable place, iis on i
bench, while (or a measure a stick
IS used that is equal in length to
the distance that there should be
between the bottom board of the
machine and the knot formed by
the harness lines and the neck
cord. With the leased hamesa
lines in a convenient position,
each bunch is taken in its regular
order and tied to the neck cords,
care beinjf taken that the knot is
in its correct position before il if
tied tightly* so that when the oper-
ation is completed all the knots
will be the same distance from the
bottom board of the machine. The
knot employed when tying the bar-
nests lines to the neck cord is
shown in Figs. 11 and 12, Fig. II
showing harness lines that are
stitched^ while Fij^. 12 sbows har-
ness lines that are knotted.

After all the harness lines are
attached to the neck cords, the
macbtxie is placed above th^ loom
and a frainework of wooden rods
inserted near the point where the
neck C0fdi ^re attached to Ibc
harness liocs, one rod passiitg
between eadi two rows €»t the
cords lengthwise of tbe j«ci|iiard
madsine. Tbese ro<b mMl tm
seci2rely fasteoed so dial Omy €9^
Doi be polled to ofl« side or Che
ofber dsrtw Ae tjfng pg^ecM;
they pmvmt Om hanmm UotB
beteg ptMt^ pwH of • tHSti0A line

JACQUARDS

ien they are beinir attached to the coupling. The rods
-^re removed when the tying is completed and the harness

3 ready for operation ^ but in the case of a cross tie, glass
rods are inserted at this point.

Wire hooks similar to that shown in Fig:. 10 (c) are
sometimes employed in both the straight and cross tie»
for attaching the harness lines to the neck cords, and are
especially suited for use in those mills where the tie is
frequently changed and where the harness is to be removed
from the loom and laid aside for a time> its place being
taken by another harness. Each hook is connected by the
machine makers to a special form of neck cord that is made
endless, a half knot keeping the hook in position* The loop
of the harness lines is fastened to the other end, and the

ines are also knotted directly below the hook. The hooks
may be readily taken from the neck cord or from the harness
line St as desired.

When taking a harness from a jacquard machine it is
necessary to make a lease of all the groups of harness lines
near the top. This is usually accomplished by commencing
with the first hook and taking the harness lines in regular
order to the last. By this means the harness may he
connected to the jacquard machine without great incon-
venience in case it is desired to again employ the same
harness. Sometimes, instead of this method, a cord is
passed through the loops at the top of the harness lines
in each long row, commencing at the front.

TYING HARNESS LINES TO COUPLINGS

14. Harness lilnes Tied Above the Comber Board.

The harness lines may be tied either above or below the
comber board. When the harness lines are tied to the
couplings above the comber board, the couplings are usually
threaded through the comber board in some convenient place
away from the loom, after which they are taken to the loom
and the comber board leveled and securely fastened in
position. To level the comber board, boards about i inch

§64

JACQUARDS

in thickness are passed under it, one end of these boards
resting on the whip roll and the other on the breast beam of
the loom. Beveled pieces of wood are then wedged between
these boards and the comber board until the latter assumes
its correct position. All parts
are then securely tied, so that
there will be no chance of
their slipping. Rods r,, r„
Fig. 13, are now passed
through the upper and lower
loops of the couplings and
fastened to some convenient
portion of the loom. The
position of the rod r, is not
of much importance so long
as it passes through the loops
properly, its object simply
being to support the coup-
lings before th^y are tied up;
it is held by cords from the
comber board. The rod r,,
however, should be so placed
that when the mail is drawn
up close to its lower edge the
harness will be in its correct
working position. The posi-
tion of the rod r, is found by
passing a string over the whip
roll and breast beam of the
loom and having the lower
edge of the rod about half
the depth of the shed below
this line. It is held rigidly
in the correct po<iition by
placing pieces of wood, cut to the proper nize, tvnry 12 inches
between it and the comber hazard. The lippcr fjlz^'^ ^>^ thftvi
pieces are beveled off thin, so as to fit I'ietweeTi two row* of
holes of the comber board.

ftf* \%

JACQUARDS

^^ different parts are in position, the operator

ices to tie the harness lines to the couph'ngs. When

IS finished, the rods r„ f\ and the supports for the

aiber board are removed, after which the couplings are

ed and twisted and afterwards varnished; this is one of

e cases where it is necessary to perform these operations

u the loom.

15t names** Twines Tied Below Comber Board,

^n the harness lines are tied below the comber board,
empty comber board is first placed in position in the
1, after which the harness lines are threaded through it
tirding to the plan of the tie adopted. The couplings,
ch should have previously been sized, twisted* and var-
ied, are then tied loosely to the harness lines and left for
^ut a day, in order that the harness lines may stretch, after
::h the couplings may be leveled. To accomplish this, a
g board about a inch thick is placed edge uppermost across
loom under the comber board in such a position that its
iter is directly under the center of the comber board, while
us top edge corresponds to the position of the mails when in
their working position. The couplings are then leveled by
this board and firmly tied.

In leveling the couplings, the front row should be a trifle
above and the back row a trifle below the level of the board,
in order to allow for the inclination of the yam in the bottom
shed between these two rows. The knots, together with
the harness lines at the point where they pass through the
comber board, are then varnished.

Tying the harness lines below the comber board has cer-
tain advantages over tying the harness lines above the
comber board, especially when a cross tie is used, since,
if the latter method is adopted, the knots come at a place
where the harness lines lie close together, and thus produce
more friction on the lines, while with the former method
these knots are separated to better advantage, and there is
not so much danger of their catching other harness lines and
thus raising ends that are not required to be up.

§64 JACQUARDS 28

VARNISHING HARNESSES

16. Varnishing the harnesses of a jacquard makes the
harness lines smoother and causes them to wear much
better. Harnesses that are to be taken from the loom for
a time and then used again are usually varnished only where
there is friction caused by the lines rubbing together, but in
case the harness is to remain in the loom for some time it
is all vaimished. In every case care should be taken to use
good varnish, since some qualities destroy the twine, while
others peel off a short time after being used.

The common varnishes are principally made from shellac,
beeswax, turpentine, and boiled linseed oil, the best varnish
probably being boiled linseed oil alone. This, when well
dried, becomes very smooth after working for some time
and keeps the twines soft and pliable. Its principal disad-
vantage is that it takes some time to dry, and consequently
cannot very well be used if the harness is tied up in the
loom, where dust is apt to collect on it; but if tied up in a
room for that purpose, this varnish will be found to be very
satisfactory. In some cases a small quantity of beeswax
is added to the oil to give it more firmness. Driers are
sometimes used to make a varnish dry more quickly, but
their use is not to be recommended, as they harden the
twine and are very liable to be detrimental to its good
working. The varnished lines should not be disturbed until
they are sufficiently dry, since if the harness lines are made
to rub against each other while the varnish is soft, the surface
will be injured and make a rough harness. French chalk
is sometimes dusted between the harness lines when the
loom is being started; this assists in smoothing them and
prevents too much friction when they are new.

JACQUARDS

5THOD8 OF PASSING HARKESS MNES THROUGH
COMBER BOARD

CONSIDERATION OF FIRiST nOOK

17, Althaugh the methods of lying up a jacquard har-
ness may be divided into two general divisions, known as
cross and straight ties» there are numerous methods of pass-
ing the harness lines through the comber board, depending
1 the character of the designs th"* are to be woven in the
torn. Before dealing with these different forms of ties,
vwever, it is necestsary to determine which is to be con-
ered the first hook of the jacqtiard machine* There is no
jsolute rule of universal application regarding the position
If this hook, different systems being in use in different mills,
jtricts, or countries; but in all systems the first hook,
igfardless of its position in the jacquard, governs the first
id of the design. In this Course, the first end is always
isidered to be on the extreme left, both of the design as
represented on design paper and, consequently, of the warp
as drawn through the harness. The hook considered as the
first may be in one of four positions — it may be on the left
nearest the cylinder, on the left farthest from the cylinder, on
the right nearest the cylinder, or on the right farthest from
the cylinder. There are, consequently, four possible posi-
tions for the needle governing the first hook — it may be the
top needle on the left of the cylinder, the bottom needle on
the left of the cylinder, the top needle on the right of the
cylinder, or the bottom needle on the right of the cylinder.
Figs. 5 and 6 show the hook here considered as the first,
which in both cases is controlled by the top needle on the
left of the cylinder.

The harness lines from this hook pass through the holes
marked 1 in the comber board, these holes being at the front
of the board. The next hook in the short row of the
machine is number 2, and the harness lines from this hook
pass through number 2 holes in the comber board. The
next hook to number 1 in the long row of hooks is number 9,

§64

JACQUARDS

and the harness lines from this hook pass through number 9
holes in the comber board. The hooks are numbered in this
manner throughout the machine, commencing: with the first
hook in the first short row at the left of the cylinder and run-
ning consecutively to the back hook and then from front to
back in the same way through each succeeding short row of
hooks; thus, number 400 hook, if the machine is a 400-hook
machine, will in each case be the last hook in the short row
at the right of the cylinder.

18. In drawing in a warp, for this system, with a straiifht
draft, as is ordinarily used in jacquard work, the ends are
drawn through the harness in regular order, from back to front
and right to left; that is, the operator drawing in the warp
commences at the right-hand side and draws the first end on
that side through the back harness, which is the harness con-
trolled by number 400 hook if the machine is a 400-hook
machine, with 400 hooks tied up. The next end is drawn
through the second harness from the back, the third through
the harness in front of that, etc. When the drawing in is
completed, it will be found that the first end of the warp is
drawn through the mail of the harness line attached to the
front hook in the short row on the left of the cylinder, Figs. 5
and 6, the second end through the mail of the harness line
attached to the second hook in this row, and so on. Thus,
the first 9 ends will pass through the mails of harness lines
passing through holes numbered from 1 to !l, and in the
same order as these holes are numbered, and so on to the
four-hundredth end.

As previously explained, the actual operation of drawing
in the ends is to concimence on the right-hand side* this
being more convenient and more nearly in keeping with the
ordinary practice on fancy looms.

19, It is very important that a thorough knowledge
should be obtained of the method of connecting the needles,
the hooks* the harness lines, and the ends of yam, and the
ejtact relation between the hole in the card and the end in
the warp, not only for one end but for all the ends in a warp.

26 JACQUARDS §64

If this is thoroughly studied in one system, it is an easy
matter to apply the knowledge to other systems that are
found in practice where a different hook is considered to be
the first, or where a different order of passing the harness
lines through the comber board, or the ends through the
mails of the harness lines, is adopted.

In general, it may be stated that for looms employed on
the same kind of work and not differing structurally in any
important point, all connections from the cards to the ends
of warp are substantially the same, the difference being in
determining which shall be considered the first end and
which the last, or which shall be considered the first hook
and which the last. As long as the design, cards, harness,
and jacquard correspond, satisfactory results in the fabric
can be obtained without necessarily following the system
here described.

STRAIGHT-THROUGH TIS

20. The straierht-throuerli tie is the foundation of all
other ties used on jacquard machines. With -this tie each
neck cord has only 1 harness line attached to it, so that
each warp end is controlled independently of the others, and
is therefore free to work differently. The harness lines are
passed through the comber board in regular order, and as
only 1 harness line is controlled by each hook, only as
many holes will be required in the comber board as there
are hooks. This style of tie is usually used to produce a
fabric containing but one repeat of the pattern in its width,
which is complete on the same number of ends as hooks on
which the harness is tied. Therefore, if only one jacquard
machine is used, the pattern and the cloth must be compara-
tively narrow, since in a machine tied up on 400 hooks
only 400 ends will be operated, and in a machine tied on
800 hooks only 800, etc. When a pattern occupies the full
width of the cloth and a large number of ends interlace dif-
ferently, several jacquard machines are employed to weave
it; they are supported above the loom as closely together
as possible and tied up on the straight-through system. For

§64

JACQUARDS

instance » if a pattern were to contain 2,400 ends and occupy
the full width of the cloth, two 1,200-hook machines or four
600-hook machines, etc. with a straight-through tie might
be used,

LAY-OVER, OR REPEATING. TIE

21, In case one repeat of the design to be produced in
the cloth occupies only a small number of inches, and it is
necessary to produce a number of repeats in order to obtain

\ ' '^M^if^Ok ■%• w

Kio. 14

' the required width of the cloth, the harnest Hnes may be
connected to the hooks of the ja^rjufiin] machine with what is
known as a lny^orcr, or ro|it^iit1iiK« tie.

JACQUARDS

864

Suppose, for example, that the desis:n shown in Fig. 14
is to be reproduced in the cloth. It will be. assumed that
1 repeat of this desigfn in the ends, indicated by the dotted
lines, is to occupy only 2 inches width wise of the cloth, while
the complete width of the cloth is to be 28 inches. It will
also be assumed that the harnesses are to be tied on 400 hooks
and that there are to be 100 ends to the inch. Then if only
a single harness line were tied to each hook, two patterns
would be reproduced, since 2 inches, or, in other words,
200 ends (100 ends to the inch), is occupied by each repeat
of the pattern. Since, however, it is desired to weave cloth
28 inches wide, there must be 14 repeats of the weave, and
since the 400 hooks, if each hook controlled only a single
harness line, would give but 2 repeats, 7 harness lines
must be tied to each hook of the machine. This design could
be woven on a 200-hook machine, if desired, as 1 repeat
occupies only 200 ends. In this case 14 harness lines would
be attached to each hook of the machine.

It is next necessary to draw up a plan of the comber board
that will show the one tying up the harness lines through
which hole each harness line from the different hooks is to
be passed. Such a plan is shown in Fig. 15, which repre-

OI9

Pic. 15

sents the comber board divided into seven divisions, each
representing one repeat of the tie. The 7 harness lines
from number 1 hook pass through the number 1 holes in the

§64 JACQUARDS 29

comber board, while the 7 harness lines from number 2 hook
pass through the number 2 holes of the comber board, and
this is continued in regular order until all the harness lines
from all the hooks have been threaded through their respect-
ive holes in the comber board.

In threading the harness lines through the comber board,
the lines from number 1 hook are first passed through their
respective holes and then usually the harness lines from num-
ber 9 hook, instead of those from number 2 hook, after which
the harness lines fro ha number 17 hook are passed through
their holes in the comber board, and so on to hook 393. In
this manner the harness lines that pass to the front holes of
the comber board are tied up before any of the harness lines
are passed through the rear holes. If this method were
not followed, it would be somewhat difficult to pass the
harness lines through the last few holes when the tie was
nearly complete, since the other harness lines would tend to
cover the holes and prevent easy access. In some ties it is
more convenient to tie the first short row of hooks first
instead of the first long row.

It will be understood that in practice the design is usually
made in accordance with the way the machine is already tied
up, and in very few cases is the harness tied to weave one par-
ticular design, although this is occasionally done where special
designs are required.

CENTERED TIE

22. In case a design in which one half is like the other
when working from a central point outwards is to be woven,
a tie known as a centered tie may be used, in order to
reduce the number of hooks necessary to reproduce the
design. Such a design is shown in Fig. 16, in which the
central line k,-//, divides the design into two parts that are
alike when working from the line «,-i/, outwards; that is, if
the design were folded over on the line w,-?/, the figure on
one side would fall on the figure on the other side. The
repeat of the design is indicated by the dotted lines. In
weaving such a design as this, it is possible to reproduce it

91-33

considering only one-half of the repeat, if the harnesses
; tied up on the centered plan,
m To illustrate the method of tying the harnesses for thia*
eave, it will be assumed that the cloth to be woven is to

contain 100 ends per inch and that

^^' "^-r-., F:iiii;-i|i[ii||f||ii one-half of the pattern, as shov^n

^1 |.^..;:-jj^^ in Fig, 16, will measure 2 inches

I I, '^^^^i^ . widthwise of the cloth when woven,

^J !' H iihiiil ^^^® making a full repeat i inches;

^ i '■'mil the total width of the cloth is to be

28 inches. To weave this, it will
- be preferable to adopt a 200-hook

machine, since the full-sized pat-
I tern can be produced by tying half

J the harness lines straight and then

■j^B "^ centering the tie, which produces

^^ the other half and (jives a design

4 inches wide. A plan of this tie is shown in Fig. 17.

The comber board is divided into seven divisions, eadi
of which represents 1 repeat of the tie. The neck cord
attached to each hook carries 14 harness lines, and therefore

MOO

90OO

wo OO 1

OIOO

woo

O 07

otoo

o«

«o

lOtO

o oe

O107

I07O

O OS 1

OlOO

o* i

lOOO

0 04 1

OIOS

OS )

l«50

o OS f

OI04

OS 1

•o

104O

O OS 1

o»

OIM

i©ao

1. -

jKeye»i*» § A sn«««

Pig. 17

2 harness lines from each hook will pass to each division of
the comber board, as follows: One line from number 1 hook,
through number 1 hole in the first half of the repeat of the
tie; one line from number 2 hook, through number 2 hole;

§64 JACQUARDS ai

and so on in regular order for the 2(X) hooks. This com-
pletes the first half of the repeat, and at this poiiU the tio in
centered; that is, a harness line from number *J00 hook in tho
second half of the repeat of the tie passes throuifh the corre-
sponding hole numbered 200 in the comber l)oanl; a harness
line from hook 199 passes through the hole numbered /!i9\
and so on in regular order, until hole number / in the last
half of the repeat is reached. One point to be noted in con-
nection with a centered tie is that the desi^ni should center
on 1 end and not 2 ends; that is, there should not be *2 ends
working exactly alike side by side at the center and edges of
the pattern. This would happen if warp ends were drawn
through all the harness lines passing through the holes nutn-
bered 200 and the holes numbered /. To avr)i<l this, there-
fore, no warp ends are drawn through the harnesH linen
passing through the holes numbered 200 anc! / that are marked
with crosses in Fig. 17. It will also Iw notctrl that if thehe
harness lines are allowed to remain empty, tlie texture of the
cloth is reduced slightly; that is, instead of being HH) end»<
per inch it is now 99 ends per inch, iK'cause 2 warp endM
have been thrown out of every 2fX).

COMBINATION TIKH

23. In some cases, the harness for the nam'; jtn'insttfl
machine may be tied up according to two t^y«>t':rn«>; nir h ;ifi
arrangement is known as a forn M nut Ion tl#s l^ot t:%uut\A**,
Fig. 1>* shows a design th;it is to \m'. wovm on -% )it/ t\iitv\
machine, the ctrAr^l jy/Tiion of th': rloth *ou>A^^iuz of tu*-
design (b). vi'nil^ or. 'z^'.h --/A", of th<: ' Jo»h th'-r*: *>. t'/ S^ u
border with the d*:-,:;fr. '<f>: ^r,':>^: v/r'N:r>, ur". to \f". * /u/^r/
alike, workir,;/ frorr. •:,': 'v::.*';r of *;," ' ;'/tir, u,//uyl t,^,
selvages, ll /.:" V: ^.;;;;.'r/J •;.:»^ •;.'; 'y/fl'r '// ,\t,* ^
9 inches :r. ■* : '- * :. % :. ': *:.<* \ r *-. ;/*>-; • : ;, * ;. ' •:.*',>, u : ; r ./; f uu/)
by the COtTfi !:'*:■. ',• •*,': '.':..;-'•. f'/r *.'.'. '//*','/ '/* *.'.y- ' .',♦/, .4

3 inches. T* v..!! <!.,■% v: ■■. >. .'.'.♦.'. *',;;••:,* -• :./•,.•.' , 'z*, ^r. ,/.',
theces:^' :* •', '/^ •■ ', .' • •','.';; i /5'/, • ^',/ :.'.'; "4* '!•..' •*
arc to '>t IX *r-.', '. V. •-'.*. '.' ' ^' -. - .-;.

JACQUARDS

S64

The border will, consequently, require 900 hooks of the
machine, and the body of the cloth, 300. Since the desicfn
formins: the center of the cloth must be repeated a sufficient
number of times to make up the complete width, a number
of harness lines equal to the nmnber of repeats of this
pattern will be tied to each of the 300 hooks weaving: the center
desigrn Fig, 18 {b)i For instance, if the cloth is to be
48 inches wide, 18 inches of this width will be occupied by
the border, leaving: 30 inches for the center of the doth.
Since 1 repeat of the weave for the center occupies 3 inches
in width, there must be 10 repeats of this weave, and as

Pio. 18

300 hooks of the machine would weave only 1 repeat of the
weave if there were only 1 harness line attached to each hook,
10 harness lines must be attached to each of the 300 hooks
weaving the design in the center of the cloth.

Considering next the 900 hooks that are to be utilized for
weaving the border, since the border on each side is to be the
same from the body design to the selvages, the centered tie
may be adopted, and since the 900 hooks with 1 harness
line from each will give 9 inches in the cloth, it is only nec-
essary to tie 2 harness lines to each of the 900 hooks weaving
the border.

§64

JACQUARDS

The plan of comber board for this tie should be marked
off in sections, showing distinctly which holes are to be used
for the border and which for the center of the design, as in
Fig. 19. Referring to this figure, the manner of passing
the harness lines through the holes in the comber board is
straight from number 1 to 900. This gives the border on

Fig. 19

the left side of the cloth. From number 901 to 1200 the
draft is a lay-over, repeated 10 times. After this follows
the border for the right-hand side. This border draft is
the reverse of the one at the left commencing on number
900 hook and running to number 1.

CASTING OUT

24. In constructing weaves for jacquard machines, it is
often customary to make the design complete on either the
same number of ends as there are hooks on which the har-
ness is tied, or on a number of ends that is exactly divisible
into the number of hooks on which the tie is made. Thus,
if a weave is to be constructed for a machine having the
harness tied on 400 hooks, it may be complete on this
number of ends, or it may be complete on a number that
is exactly divisible into 400, such as 200, 100, 80, or 40. If
in any case it is desired to weave a design that is complete
on a number of ends not exactly divisible into the number

oks on which the harness is tied, it will be necessary
jttSt out those hooks that are not required. For instance,
lose that a weave that repeats on 360 ends is to be woven
a machine having the harness tied on 400 hooks; then
hooks will be cast out, as these will not be necessary in
tning the pattern. Or suppose that a weave complete on
ends is to be woven on a 400-hook harness tie; 64 is con-
ned in 400, 6 times, with 16 as a remainder, and therefore
books will be cast out.

I casting out hooks, the griff '- lifted so as to raise all

1 hooks, and then those that are to be cast out are thrown

he knives, thus lowering every harness line and eye that

i to be used; the warp can then be drawn through those

ness lines that are raised. As no warp ends are drawn

igh the harness lines controlled by the hooks cast off,

ie hooks may remain down during the running of the

-.jhine, no holes being cut in that portion of the cards that

governs these hooks. The hooks are usually cast off from

ach side of the machine; thus, in the last case mentioned*

here 16 hooks were not required to be used, the first and

ast rows could be cast off, and as each row contains 8 hooks,

this would cast out the 16 hooks not required.

Sometimes the weave is such that only a few hooks need
be cast out, but at other times it may be necessary, to cast
out a comparatively large part of the entire number of hooks
of the machine. It will be noted that if certain hooks are
not used and there are no warp threads drawn through the
harness lines controlled by these hooks, the ends per inch in
the cloth will be reduced. For instance, if a 400-hook
machine is tied up so as to give 80 ends per inch in the
fabric, and 40 hooks are cast out, the texture of the cloth is
reduced proportionately; that is, 400 : 80 = 360 : j:, j: in this
case being equal to 72, which is the number of ends per inch
that the cloth will contain with the 40 hooks cast out. For
this reason casting out is sometimes resorted to solely to
reduce the texture of the cloth; but it cannot be done to
reduce the texture of a cloth already in the loom, since the
design would be spoiled. When casting out is resorted to.

§64 JACQUARDS 38

therefore, the design must be made, and the warp reeded,
according to the number of hooks that are to be used and
the texture of the cloth that is wanted.

In all jacquard machines, there are certain reserve hooks
that are tied up especially for the selvage. Thus, in a
400-hook machine, which in reality contains either 408 or
416 hooks, 400 hooks are usually tied up for the body of the
cloth, while such of the additional hooks as are required are
tied up for the selvage. The hooks operating the selvages
are usually situated at the right-hand side of the machine as
the observer faces the cylinder, although this is not neces-
sary. The harness lines from these hooks pass to the right
and also to the left end of the comber board; they are some-
times threaded through slips attached to the front of the
comber board, as shown in Fig. 3, while at other times they
are passed through the regialar holes of the comber board
immediately outside of the holes occupied by the harness
lines carrying the body of the warp yam. Usually only two
of the extra hooks are used for the selvages, while part or all
of the other extra hooks are added to and used the same as
the other hooks of the machine, thys increasing its capacity;
or they may be used to produce a small border, or left idle.

JACQUARDS

(PART 3)

CARD CUTTING, LACING, AND
REPEATING

JNTRODUCTION

1. The preparation of the pattern cards that are used to
weave any given design on a jacquard loom is an important
branch of jacquard work, and the subject should receive
careful study. The designs for cloth to be woven in
these looms are prepared on design paper and are much
larger than the designs for dobby looms. They are usually
painted in such a way that the squares that are painted over
indicate where the warp ends are to be raised, while those
squares that are not painted represent the warp ends down.
On account of the large extent of paper to be covered by the
design, this custom, however, is not always followed; for
instance, the space occupied by a large figure formed in the
design by warp flushes may be entirely painted over with
one color, and then the binding with the filling indicated
in another color, the latter not having to be cut. How-
ever, if the design contains a large figure with warp largely
predominating, sometimes the system is adopted of marking
only those squares where the warp is down, and instructing
the card cutter to this effect. This saves much time in pre-
paring the design.

For each pick in the repeat of the design, one card must
be cut; for instance, if there are 384 picks in the repeat, this

For notice of copyright, see page immediately following the titU Page
166

Pio.l

§66 JACQUARDS 3

requires the preparation of 384 pattern cards. Each card
is cut by punching^ holes through it in the proper positions,
one hole being punched for each small square in one hori-
zontal row on the design paper that represents a warp
end lifted.

The design paper used for jacquard designing should be
selected so that the small squares are divided off by heavy
vertical lines according to the number of hooks in each short
row in the machine on which the design is to be woven;
thus, if a machine with 400 hooks is to be used, with 8 hooks
in a short row, the design paper should be 8 X 8, 8 X 10, or
such other description as will provide for heavy vertical
lines to divide off the small squares into sections of 8.
This is for the reason that in reading the design for cutting
the cards, the punching that is required is considered with
regard to one short row at a time. If 3 hooks out of 8 in
the short row are to be raised, all 3 holes are punched at
one operation; or, if the entire 8 hooks are required to be
raised, all 8 holes are punched at one operation, after which
the card is moved a short distance and those holes rccjuircd
to be punched for the next short row are stamped out, and
so on. Thus, in a 400-hook machine containing fifty short
rows, fifty operations of punching might be recjuired to i)ro-
duce one card of the pattern. In addition, more operations
would be necessary to punch the peg holes and lace holes.

Owing to the different methods of indicating the ends that
are to be raised or left down, the card cutter should in every
case before commencing to cut a set of i-ards carefully nr)te
the instructions of the designer, who usually writes his
directions either on the back of the design, or aroinul the
sides, stating the colors of the square's that represent ends
raised, and consequently the hohrs to \)r. cut in the card.

The cards are usually made of a tout:h quality of heavy
cardboard that will, as far as possihl*-, r«-sist the strain and
wear contingent on their contact with and pnrssure on the
needles and their constant niovemcfit aiound tint cylinder of
the jacquard machine. Iffavici (ardhoaid is user] for the
larger machines, for mac hinc. lunnujji :it hi;:h speeds, and

JACQUARDS

§66

for those desisrns that are frequently rewoven in different
seasons. These cards are cut in strips, so that their length
and width will be the right size for the cylinder, before the
holes are stamped out. Card cattinff properly is the
punching of the holes, although this is sometimes called
card stamping.

CARD CUmKO

PIAKO BfACHINS

2. Constraction of the Head. — The machine com-
monly employed to transfer the design from the design
paper to the pattern cards is known as a piano maclilne

'S^^^^^

Pig. 2

and is shown in Fig. 1. Its principal part is the head a.
Fig. 1; a front elevation of this mechanism alone is shown
in Fig. 2, while a plan view of it, together with the card
guides, is shown in Fig. 3. In order that the interior of the
head may be studied, its top is shown removed in Fig. 3.
Inserted in the head are twelve keys, numbered from 1 to 12
in Fig. 3; the inner end of each key, when pushed in, comes
directly above a vertical punch also carried by the head.
These punches are shown in Fig. 2 numbered from 1 to 12
to correspond to the keys that control them. In addition to
these twelve keys there is also a key a^, Fig. 3, that controls

165

JACQUARDS

the punch a„ Fig. 2, known as the peg-hole punch. The
entire head is supported by two upright rods a,, a*, Figs. 1
and 2, that slide in bearings supported by the framework of
the machine. These rods, together with the head, are lifted

(Z)

mmiL

Pio. 3

and lowered by means of levers that are controlled by the
feet of the operator.

3. Guides. — The card to be cut is inserted endwise
between the guides by b^. Fig. 3, and held by a catch ^„ Fig. 4,
that is raised to insert the card, shown at a^, by pressing down
on the lever b^. The spring b^ returns the catch bt to its work-
ing position when the pressure is removed from the lever ^,.

All jacquards do not have
the same number of hooks m
their short row» there being
either 8, 10, or 12 hooks. The
guides l>, b,. Fig. 3, are shown
in the position in which ihey are
placed when a card is being cut
for a jacquard with 12 books
in its short row, which neces-
si*"*^s the use of all twelve
punches of the piano machine.
If, however, cards are to be
cut for a machine with 10 hooks
in its short row, both guides
are moved in toward the cen-
ter of the machine until the
distance between them equab
the width of the card; in this
case, the two outside punches,
or numbers / and 12, would
not be used. In the case of a
card for a jacquard with only
8 hooks in its short row, the
guides would be brought still
closer together, and the
punches 1,2,11, and 12 would
not be used.

The card guides l>, A,, Fig. 3,
are controlled by connecting
rods A„ A, that are attached to
a lever *,, one end of w^hich
is held against a pin K by a
spring ^», The pin ^, is inserted
in a slide that may be moved
to any desired position and
then securely locked by means
of the thumbscrew i^,*. Sup-
pose, for illustration^ that the

§65 JACQUARDS 7

guides are in the position shown in Fig. 3 and that it
is desired to change them so that they will accommodate
a card requiring the use of only ten punches. The thumb-
screw bx. is loosened and the slide, together with the pin ^„
moved to the left. This allows the spring b. to draw
the forward end of the lever b^ to the left, which, acting
through the connections ^., ^., draws the guides b, b^ toward
the center. When the guides are in the correct position for
the card to be cut, the thumbscrew ^,o is tightened and no
further alterations are required until cards of a different
width are used.

4. MeclianiHin for liaising and Lowering the Head.

The mechanism for raising and lowering the rods a„ a*,
together with the head that carries the keys and pimches, is
shown in Figs. 1 and 5. Two foot-levers r, r, are placed in
such a position that they may be readily controlled by the
feet of the operator when seated in front of the machine.
Connected to the foot-lever r, is a rod r. that is connected to
the lever r, attached to the rod r«, which in turn is connected
to the lever r.. A connection is also formed between the
lever r, and the foot-lever c by means of the rod r.. The
lever r. extends to the front of the machine and has attached
to it a casting r, bolted to a crosspiece r, that connects the
rods a„ a^. This crosspiece is firmly secured at one end to
the rod a^ by means of a pin r, that passes through the two
parts, while at the other end it is similarly connected to the
rod a,. At its extreme forward end, the lever r. is attached
to an adjustable connection rio, which at its other end is con-
nected to the girt r,,.

The arrangement of these parts is such that by pressing
down on the foot-lever c the crosspiece r., together with the
rods ^73, ci*, and head </, is lowered, the downward motion of the
foot-lever c being communicated to the lever r. through
the rod r». Simultaneously with the lowering of lever c the
lever r, is raised by means of rods c^,(\ and lever c^. On
the other hand, when the foot-lcvcr r, is pressed down, the
inner end of the lever i\ will be raised, through the action of

JACQUARDS

the lever c^ and rods c^c^ thus raising the crosspiece r„
together with the head ti; this a] so raises r through the
rod e^. Pressing down on one lever necessarily raises the

Bther into position to he pressed down. The part c,^ instead
of being rigidly connected to the lever f. and girt r.,, is
attached to swinging collars, and since the rods r^c^.c are

Bet loosely on studa^ the rods eia»(i. are allowed a true
vertical movement, thus preventing their bindiDg ia the
bearings through which they pass.

5, Operation of Punch Inji; Cards. — The operation of
punching a card is as follows: The operator, seated in front
of the machine, presses down the foot-lever r^ Fig. 5, thus
raising the head a together with the punches. The card is
then inserted between the card guides and pushed along
Bintil it comes in contact with the catch h, Fig* 4. Pressing
down on the lever d^ lifts this catch, and the card is then
moved into place, when the pressure on the lever is released,
which allows the catch to securely hold the card in its proper
position. The operator determines from the design, which
is placed before him, what holes are to be cut on each
row of the card, and with his fingers presses in the keys
that lock the punches for the holes to be cut. Suppose, for
example, that twelve punches are being operated and that on
a certain row every other punch is to cut a hole in the card;
then keys 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12, Fig, 3, will be pushed in,
which will lock the corresponding punches. The operator
then presses down on the foot*lever c, Fig. 5, which brings
down ihe head^ together with the punches, so that those
punches that are locked by their keys will penetrate the card.
■ The key a, and punch <i,» Fig, 4^ show the relative position
^f a key and punch when the key is out and the head of the
machine down. In this case the card a^ pushes up the punch,
which simply rests on the card, without puncturing it. The
key 7 and punch 7 in the same fignre show the relative posi-
tions of these parts when the key is pushed in. In this case
the punch is locked by the key, so that when the head is
brought down the punch is pushed through the card a^. When

JACQUARDE

^Laec Si^l€M

the operator removes his fingers from the keys, the springs a^
return them to their original positions, U a punch is not
locked by its key, the card* coming in contact with it as the
head is forced down, pushes it up, as shown in the case of ,
the punch a,, Fig* 4, and when the head is again raised, the
punch drops by its own weight into position. Referring to
Fig, Zy keys t and 2 are controlled by the thumb of the right
hand; keys 3, 4, 5, and 6, by the fingers of the right hand;
keys 7, ^, 9, and 10, by the fingers of the left hand; while
keys it and 1^ are controlled by the thumb of the left hand;
key a^y Fig. 3, is generally controlled
by the thumb of the right hand*

The first holes to be cut are gen-
erally the lace and peg holes at the
end of the card first inserted in
the machine; they are shown cut in
the card illustrated in Fig. 6. These
holes are cut at one operation by
the operator pushing in the keys con-
trolling the two punches next to the
outside punch on each side of the machine, and also the key
for the peg-hole punch. Thus, if a card that requires twelve
punches is being cut, keys 2, 11, and a,, Fig. 3, are pressed in
by the operator and the head forced down. The card is then
ready to have the first row of holes for the design punched.
The round pieces of card that are cut out by the punches drop
into a chute «», Fig. 5, and are deposited in a box a„ Fig. 1.

Fmg Boim

Pio.e

6. Skip Motion. — An arrangement is provided on this
machine by means of which, after one row of holes is cut, the
card is automatically moved the exact distance required to
bring it in position to have the next row of holes punched.
Referring to Figs. 4, 5, and 7, the catch b^ that holds the card,
and the lever b^ and spring b^ that control this catch form a
part of the carriage d that runs on rollers d^. Attached
to the rear of this carriage is a string </, that passes over a
pulley at the rear of the machine and supports the weight ^,.
This weight exerts a constant pull on the carriage and, if not

§65

JACQUARDS

prevented by some catch, will draw the carriage to the limit
of its backward movement. Attached to the foot- lever ri is

a stud f/* working tn the
slot t/i in the lower end ol
the rod </„ which at its
upper end is attached to a
kver t(^ pivoted at t/.. The
rear end of this lever car-
ries a rod c controlled by
a spring e^. Fig. 7, and is
held down by a spring e/*,
one end of which is at-
tached to the lever, while
the other end is connected
to the frame of the
machine* Connected to
the front end of the rod €
is a block e^ that slides on
a plate e^ attached to r/,,
while screwed to this block
is a skip plate <•*, one end
of which projects beyoiid
the block and works in
pins it attached lo tne side
of the carriage* Another
skip plate e*, which is
screwed to the lever ^,,
has a projecting end that
works between the pins r,.
The operation of this
mechanism is as follows:
When the rear end of the
lever d^ is held down by
the spring d",, the plate *r»,
by coming in contact with
one of the pins r*, prevents
the weight dt^ Fig* 5, from
moving the carriage d.

letij however, the head a is lifted by the operator pressing
'Own the foot-lever Ct, Fig, 5, the stud d^ comes io contact
itli the lower end of the slot ^,, which pulls down the rod d,,
.Qgether with the forward end of the lever d,, and raises the
rear end of this lever. Referringf now to Fig, 7. as the rear
end of the lever d^ is raised by this action, the skip platen,
is brought out of contact with the pin with which it has been
in contact, and at the same time the skip plate f* is brought
in contact with the next pin in front of the one with which ^
was engaged. The weight d^, Fig» 5» then draws the carriage
backt compressing the spring f,, Fig. 7, until the block e^
comes in contact with the part of the lever d^ shown at ^,,
when the plate e^, will be directly under the plate ^*. As the
lever r, Fiif, 6, is now depressed to cut another row of holes
in the card, the lever d rises, allowing the spring d, to
depress the rear end of the lever d,; this will move the
plate r*, Fig, 7, out of contact with the pin, but will at the
same time cause the plate e^ to occupy a position immedi-
ately behind, and in contact with, the pin that was previously
resting against f* and thus hold the carriage in position. As
the plate r* is brought out of contact with the pin, the
spring ^i pushes the rod e, together with the block r^ and
plate ^4, forwards, thus bringing it in position to engage with
the next pin when the lever f», Fig. 5, is again depressed. As
the catch *„ Figs. 4 and 5, that holds the card is attached to
the carriage d, any backward movement of the carriage will
give a corresponding movement to the card. The pins ^.
are accurately spaced, so that the distance between them
exactly corresponds to the distance between two consecutive
rows of holes in the card.

A cord e,f Fig. 1, that is attached to the carriage is used
to draw it forward again preparatory to cutting the next card.
To accomplish this, the lever ^i, Fig. 5, is pressed down, thus
raising the head and bringing the punches out of contact
with the card. The forward end of the lever </, is then still
further depressed by hand until both skip plates ^«, ^. are
entirely free of the pins ^„ when the carriage may be pulled
forwards by the cord ^..

§65

JACQUARDS

7, Reading Boa^'d. — The design /., Fig^, 1, that is to be
cut is tacked to the reading board /• The guide rules /,, A
that aid the operator in following the squares on the design
paper with his eye are attached to movable side pieces /*, /ip
B each of which engages a vertical screw carrying at its
lower end a bevel gear working in a bevel gear on the hori-
zontal rod /** After one row of squaixs on the design paper

■ has been cut, which completes one cardp the operator, by
turning the hand wheel /» or the crank /,, moves the guide
rule into its correct position to show the next row to be cut,

■ Two guide rules are used simply for convenience in reading
small designs, and also because the range of adjustment of
the side pieces /*, /» is not sufKcient to cause one guide rule

■ to move over the entire surface of the reading board. They
™ also serve to stiffen the side pieces and render the whole

arrangement rigid.

■ Attached to the reading board is a card or a portion of a
card /p that is an exact duplicate of the cards being cut,
AH the holes in this card are cut, and the vertical rows of
holes are numbered consecutively, commencing at the right-
hand side. A cord /,» that passes over pulleys attached to
the reading board is connected at one end to the carriage,
while its other end carries a weight hi- An ordinary pin is
passed through this cord, or a knot made in it, in such a
position that when the carriage is in its correct position for
cutting the first row of holes in the card, the pin or knot
will be opposite the first row of holes on the card /,. The
operator is thus enabled to tell at any time which row of

[holes he is cutting on the card by simply observing the posi-
tion of the pin or knot on the guide card*
METHODS OF BEADING DESIGNS
8, In cutting cards for a jacquard design, a clear under-
standing should be had of the relation between the holes in
the card and the hooks of the machine: also* of the system
adopted for numbering the hooks (that is, which is to be
considered the first hook) and in what order and direction

JACQUARDS

§6§

the desigrn must be read and the cards cut. In order to
illustrate these points, it will be supposed that a madiiiie
with 8 hooks in the short row is bein^ used and that the
design shown in Fig:. 8 (a) is to be cut, this design being
complete on 16 ends. Jacquard designs are ot course com-
plete on a very much larger number of ends than this, but a
desigi\ complete on 16 ends is taken as an example because
this illustrates the principle as well as a design complete on
a gjreater number of ends-
Each card represents only 1 pick, and the cards are num-
bered in the order in which they are presented to the needles
of the machine, the first card selecting the hooks for the
first pick, the second card those for the second pick, etc*

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When cards are being cut, it is the rule for the operator to
have the numbered side of the card up, and the numbered
end is passed into the card-cutting machine first. When the
card is placed on the jacquard machine, the numbered side
comes next to the needles » with the numbered end in such a
position as to operate the first needle correctly; that is, if
the first hook is considered to be the one on the extreme left
nearest the cylinder, operated by the top needle in the left-
hand short row, the numbered end of the card is placed at
the left. All that is necessary when cutting cards for a
design is to know the position of the needle operating the
first hook; for instance, in the case just given, if ihe first end
of the design is to be raised over the first pick, the hole cut

§66

JACQUARDS

for this will be at the extreme left of the first row at the
numbered end of the card.

t
I

f>. Suppose that it is desired to cut cards, to give the
desigii shown in Fig. 8 («), for a jacquard in which the first
hook is considered to be the one that is on the extreme left
nearest the cylinder and operated by the top needle in the
left-hand short row. The tirst end and first pick of the
design^ situated at the lower left-hand corner, are marked in
Fig* 8 (^)* The design may be placed on the reading board
of the card-cuttingr machine either right side up or upside
down. When it is desired to read it right side up^ it is
tacked to the reading board and the guide rules are moved
so that the lower edg^e of one of them will come just above
the first pick, thus enabling that pick to be easily read. In
this case the card cutter will read from left to right. If a
machine similar to that illustrated in Fig* 1, with 12
punches, is used, it must be adjusted so that 8 punches
only will be used* as the cards must be cut with 8 holes in
each short row* In such a case, punches numbered from
3 to 10, Fig. 3, would be used. As the card is inserted
in the machine with the numbered side up and the
numbered end first, and as it must be so placed on the
jacquard machine that when it comes against the needles
the numbered end will be at the left when facing the
cylinder and the numbered side against the needles* boles
that are cut by the punch operated by V^y number 10,
Fig. B, will come against the needle that operates the
first hook, and holes cut by the punch operated by key
number 3 will come against needles that control the
eighth hook.

Fig. 9 shows the ends of two cards, {a) representing how
the first two rows of holes would be cut for the first pick of
the design shown in Fig. 8 (a), while [b) represents how the
first two rows of holes would be cut for the second pick. As
the design in Fig. 8 («) is read by the card cutter, he
observes that the first, second, third, fourth, and fifth ends
roust be raised in the first section of 8 ends. By pressing

the tenths ninth, eighth, seventh, and sixth keys, Fi^. 3,
holes are cut in the card as shown in the first row in
Fig. 9 {a}. The card is then moved along to bring it Into
position for cutting the holes for the second section of 8 ends
of the design, namely, the ninth to the sixteenth eods of the
first pick. In this case it is required that the machiDe shall
raise the hooks operating the first, third, and fifth ends in
this section of 8 ends, and the card cutter consequently
presses the keys numbered 10^ 6, and 6^ Fig, S, thus cutting
boles as shown in the second row in Fij^. 9 (a). Fig, 9 (^)
represents the end of a card for the second pick of Figr. 8 (a);
the object in punching: the holes in the order and positioii

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(b)

Pl€L 9 ,

shown in Fig. 9 (d) can beseen by observing which ends
are to be raised on the second pick of the design. In case
a design is complete on a smaller number of ends than
there are hooks in the machine, the card cutter repeats
the first pick as shown on the design paper until the entire
card has been cut.

For convenience, it is frequently the custom to place the
design upside down on the reading board, thus bringing the
first end and first pick in the upper right-hand comer, as
shown in Fig. 8 (^), which is the same design as Fig. 8 (a),
excepting that its position is changed. In this case, the card
cutter moves the guide rules so that the upper edge of one of
them, usually the top one, will come just below the first
pick, thus enabling him to read it readily. With the design
in this position, the card cutter commences at the right of

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I HA 30101

THE
PUBIIC

§65

JACQUARDS

the desigrn to determine the holes that are to be cut, and
reads from right to left. In this case the punches are
selected exactly as in the previous instances, and as reading
the design from right to left after it has been turned upside
down also gives the same result as reading it from left to
right when in a normal position, the cards will be perforated
in the same manner in either case.

METHOD OF CUTTING A 9ET OF CAHfiS

10, In order to understand more fully the operation of
cutting the cards from a design worked out on design paper.J
it will be assumed that it is desired to cut a set of cards that
will give the design shown in Fig* 10, It will further be
assumed that the machine to be used to weave this design is
a 400*hook jacquard with 8 hooks in a short row and 51 hooks
in a long row, the harnesses, being, .tied up on 400 hooks,;
As shown in Fig. 10» the df sign occupies 96 ends, and since
96 is not a factor of 400 — the number of hooks to which the
harness lines are attacHed—it is necessary to have some of
the hooks, together with the* Harness tines that are attached
to them, inoperative. Dividing 400 by 96, it is found that
this number of hooks will give four full repeats of the
pattern with 16 hooks left over. This number of hooks
must consequently be cast out*

It should be understood that casting out some of the
hooks in this manner reduces the ends per inch propor-
tionally. For example, if the comber board gives 100 ends
per inch when the full number of hooks in a machine is
being used, casting out 16 hooks, as in this case, will reduce
the ends per inch from 100 to 96, (400 : 3B4 = 100 : 9G.)
The fact that casting out hooks in a jacquard machine reduces
the ends per inch in the goods is often taken advantage of"
for this purpose alone.

In casting out hooks, those to be left idle should be dis-
tributed at regular intervals so that the yam will not pass toj
the reed at an angle that will cause it to be chafed and
broken. In the case of the design shown in Fig. 10, sinci

JACQUARDS

S65

this machine is a 400-hook machine, having^ 8 hooks in each
short row, and since there are 16 hooks to be cast out, there
will be two rows of 8 hooks each that will not be required.
These two rows of hooks may be omitted at the end of
the machine, or one row may be left out at the center—
the twenty-fifth — and another at the end — the fiftieth. The
latter case will be taken for illustration.

Having: determined which hooks are to be left idle, it is
next necessary to mark off, on a narrow strip of paper, squares
exactly equal in size to the squares on the desig^n paper
enclosed by the heavy lines. There should be as many of
these squares in a horizontal row as there are large squares
in one horizontal row occupied by the design, in this case
twelve; while each vertical row should contain as many
squares as there are repeats of the weave in one card, in

this case four. The
squares are numbered
consecutively, as shown
in Fig. 11, which illus-
trates one of these slips
marked off for the
design shown in Fig. 10.
Referring to Fig. 11, it will be noticed that there are no
squares marked 25 or 50, but that these numbers are set
down in a different manner from the other numbers; the
object of this is to indicate to the card cutter that after cut-
ting the twenty-fourth and also the forty-ninth row of holes
on the card, the next rows, or the twenty-fifth and fiftieth, are
to be skipped. After making out the slip of paper as
described, it is attached to the guide rule on the reading
board in such a manner that the vertical lines of the squares
will exactly correspond to the heavy vertical lines on the design
paper. By this means the operator can readily determine for
which large square of the design paper he is cutting.

Each operation of the piano machine cuts the holes to
operate the hooks in one short row of the jacquard machine;
or in other words, if the machine contains 8 hooks in a short
row, the piano machine will cut holes to correspond to the

4€

«d

1»

»a

Pio. 11

§65 JACQUARDS 19

needles operating: these hooks as the pattern calls for.
For this reason, and in order to enable the card cutter to
follow the design more readily, it is customary to use desis^n
paper divided into sections of eight squares when cutting
cards for a jacquard machine having 8 hooks in its short
low. If the machine has 10 hooks in its short row, design
paper divided into sections of 10 is preferable; while if the
machine has 12 hooks in its short row, design paper divided
into sections of 12 should be used.

11. To further illustrate the method of casting out
hooks and marking off slips of paper that are attached to the
guide rule, suppose that it is desired to weave on a 400-hook
machine a design that is complete on 160 ends. Dividing
400 by 160, it is seen that there will be two repeats of the
pattern and 80 hooks that will be left idle. As there are
8 hooks in a row, 10 rows of hooks must be thrown out. In
order to prevent too many hooks being omitted at any one
place, it is preferable in this case to throw out two rows of
hooks at two separate points of the machine and three rows at
each of two other points, thus giving 10 idle rows. Since the
design will be made out on 8 X 8 design paper, and since
the pattern repeats on 160 ends, there will be 20 large
squares across the design paper in one repeat of the pattern,
or in other words, there will be 2f) squares in each hori-
zontal row on the strip of paper that is marked out to l)e
placed on the guide rule. When numlxjring the Hquares on
the slip of paper, they will l>e numbered conHccutively
up to 10; then the numbers // and J'J will b<* set down in
such a manner as to indicate that these two rows of hookn
are to be omitted. Commencing ag;iin at /.7, the squares
will be numbered consecutively up to if'J, whrn t\u* num-
bers 23, 24, and 25 will l>e set down in himIi a manner as to
indicate that these rows of hooks an* fo \h* oiiiittcd. This
will complete one reading of tlie iW^'v^u, ih.if is, it will give
160 ends, but since this is to \hi rt'.\tir.i\ri\ in order fo occupy
the full card, there will Ixt anoihrr horizontal row of
squares directly al^^^ve the first. TheJ>e will lie numl>ered

JACQUARDS

s«

consecutively commencins: with 26 and nmninif up to 35^
when the numbers 3ff and 37 will be marked in such a manner
as to indicate that these rows of hooks are to be omitted;
the squares will then commence with 38 and be numbered
consecutively up to 47, when the numbers 48, 49, and 50 will
be set down in such a manner as to indicate that these rows
also are to be omitted. A slip of paper marked oS in this
manner is shown in Fisf. 12.

12. After the slip has been attached to the s^uide rule,
the design paper is fastened to the reading: board and the
S^ide rule set in such a manner that it will come directly
above or below the first pick to be read. Suppose that the
desis:n shown in Fig:. 10 has been attached to the reading
board right side up, bringing; the first end and first pick in
the lower left-hand corner. The operator moves the guide

^-».

m-m

Pio.12

rule until it is in the correct position and then commences
to punch the holes called for by the design. As one card
serves for only 1 pick of the design, the reading of 1 pick
determines the manner of cutting one complete card, and
after this card has been cut the guide rule is moved until it
is in the correct position for reading the next pick. It should
be borne in mind that one operation of the piano machine
punches the holes called for by that portion of the pick
between two heavy vertical lines, or in the case of the design
shown in Fig. 10, one operation of the machine punches the
holes to operate 8 ends on 1 pick; consequently, with this
design, the machine must operate twelve times in order to
produce one repeat. Since, however, this determines the
operation of only 96 hooks, and since there is a total of
384 hooks, each pick as shown on the design paper must be
repeated on the card four times in order to complete the
punching of the card; consequently, after the operator has

866

JACQUARDS

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oo o o o

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o o o o

8 8

8 8 8

ooooo

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oooco

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Hodis cast out

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- - Cparaf/n^ >fn<iyr

-Lace»of€$

rM.a

read the pick once, he com-
mences again with the first end
and repeats the operation.

Fig. 13 shows a card cut for
the twenty-fourth pick of Fig.
10 to operate the hooks in a
machine in which the hook on
the extreme left nearest the
cylinder is considered the first
hook. This card would be
placed on the cylinder with the
numbered side next the needles
and the numbered end at the left.

It is assumed that 2 hooks
of the extra short row arc to be
used to operate the selvages;
therefore, in Fig. 13 a hole is
punched to raise one of these
hooks, while on the next card,
the other hook would be raised,
so that a plain selvage would
be produced.

LACJNO

LA<:iNCi liy IIANI>

13. After the cards have
been cut, it is necossary to hire
them together in hurh a nian-
ner that they njay !>*! plar<td on
the cylinder of tJie jar'iuttfd
machine. TJii* oj/eration waf>
formerly perforr/jed by hand,
1/Ut as thi'i pro'e^^ i^ neM;v
harily a nlow one, autornatjr
card -lacing rnaUitnen have f^en

JACQUARDS

SfiS

invented and are larsfely used at the present time. When
cards are laced by hand, they are placed on a hand-lacing
frame, which consists principally of two long: supports for
the cards. Metal or wooden pes:s are inserted at regular
intervals in each suppo]:t, the distance between the two
supports being: such that when the cards rest
on them the two rows of pes:s will be at a dis-
tance apart corresponding to that of the peg
holes in one card, while the pegs in each sup-
r^ V port are so spaced as to give the exact distance
^^ * between the cards that is required in order to

have them pass around the cylinder of the
jacquard machine. These frames usually hold
from thirty to fifty cards, while the pegs are
capablfe of being moved nearer together or
farther apart, in order to regulate the space
between them for different-sized cards. After
^^ H a number of cards have been placed on the

frame in the order in which they are to come on
the machine, the operator laces them together
with a heavy twine threaded through a needle.
The needle is passed up through the first
lace hole of the first card, down through the
second hole of the same card, up between the
^^ -l first and second cards, down through the first

v^ y| hole of the second card, up through the second

hole of this card, down between the second and
third cards, and so on with all the cards. The
operator then starts again with the first card,
but this time reverses the order of passing
the needle through the cards; that is, the
needle in this case is passed down through the first hole of
the first card and up through the second hole, instead of up
through the first hole and down through the second, as in the
former case. The two ends are also crossed between each
two consecutive holes and also between each two consecutive
cards, giving the result shown in Fig. 14, which shows the
cards laced in this manner.

Pig. 14

§66 JACQUARDS 23

AUTOMATIC LACING

14. General Construction of Automatic Lacer.

The stitch formed when the cards are laced by hand differs
from that formed by the automatic lacer and is considered
preferable by some, although the greater rapidity with which
cards can be laced on the automatic machine has caused
hand lacing to be superseded. It is also possible with the
automatic lacer to regulate the tension of the lacing cords
and keep them at a uniform tension throughout the lacing of
a set of cards. This is somewhat difficult in the case of
hand lacing, since the operator may draw the cords tighter
at one point than at another.

Fig. 15 shows a view of an automatic lacing machine,
while Fig. 16 shows a view, partly in section, of the same
machine. Referring to these figures, the cards .i» are placed
in the correct order in a stack between two uprights .4»m^4>,.
and rest on a steel plate g^. Fig. 16, that is screwed to a
rack g^\ this rack is capable of being moved back and forth
in a table that supports these different parts. When the
rack g^ is moved to the right, in Fig. 1(5, the plate a** i*^
withdrawn from under the cards g and the bottom card rests
on the rack, just in front of ^4. As the rack is moved to the
left, the plate g^, which is slightly thinner than one card,
pushes the bottom card forwards until it is in position below
the lace-hole punches //„ //, and the peg-hole punch //,.
There are two sets of these punches, one at each end of the
head, while in the center are placed two i)unches similar
to ^„ ^,. When the next card in the bottom of the stack is
brought into position to be punched, the card previously
punched is pushed forwards until the peg holes in the card
are engaged by pegs on the sprocket carrier chain /. This
chain carries the cards forwards until they are brought into
position below the needles /. There are three of these
needles in the width of the machine, one for each set of lace
holes, and as the first set of lace holes of the card is brought
into position, the needles descend, pass through them, and
form, below the card, a loop of the cord that is threaded

165

JACQUARDS

throusfh the needle. A shuttle k that carries a specially
wound cop of cord passes through the loop formed by the
cord in the needle, thus securely locking this cord and lacing
the cards together. The twine for the needles may be taken
from balls placed in a stand above the machine that is sup-
ported by two upright rods, as shown in Fig. 15, or it may
be taken from the spools directly below this stand, as shown
in the same figure.

15. Feed-Mechanism. — Referring to Fig. 16 and also
to Fig. 17, which shows an enlarged view of the feed-motion
of the machine, the manner in which the rack g^ is pushed

Fig. 17

forwards in order to bring a new card into position is as
follows: On the under side of the rack g^ are teeth that are
engaged by a segment g^ cast with a sleeve carried by the
shaft g.\ this sleeve supports two segments similar to ^„ as
shown in Fig. 15. Also cast with the sleeve is an arm
connected at its lower end to a sleeve on the eccentric rod ^„
which is worked by the eccentric g^ on the shaft //. As the
shaft h revolves, the eccentric.^, works the eccentric rod g,
back and forth, so that the collar setscrewed to the end of
this rod comes in contact with the sleeve and draws it to the
left when the rod is movinjj in this direction, while a hub on
this same rod forces the sleeve to the right when the rod g,
is moving in the opposite direction. By this means, the
arm g^ is given a backward-and-forward motion, and as its

91—36

JACQUARDS

S>5

teeth ensfage with the teeth on the lower side of the rack gt^
this rack is also carried backwards and forwards. As a new
card is brought into position, a spring g. carried by the for-
ward end of the rack g^ engages with the card that has jnst
been punched and pushes this card forwards into position for

the pegs on the sprocket
chain i to engage with
the peg holes in the card.
As the rack is next moved
back, a weight kxn drops
on the card just brought
forwards to be punched
and holds it in position.
This weight is attached
to the framework of the
machine by a screw A.,
that works in a slot A,«
of the weight, this slot
being sufficiently large to
allow the weight A„ a
slight vertical movement.
A piece ^,o situated
directly in front of the
cards is capable of being
adjusted to allow only
sufficient space between
„ _ its lower edge and the top

r lO. 18

of the rack g^ for one card
to be pushed forwards at a time, thus lessening the liability
of two cards being pushed forwards at once by the plate g^.

16. Construction of Head. — The head k. that carries
the punches is raised and lowered by means of an eccen-
tric //«, Figs. 15 and 18, on the shaft h\ this eccentric carries an
eccentric arm //, connected to a stud //, on the head //,. One
of these connections is at each end of the head, while two
guide rods, one of which is shown at //„ Fig. 18, are provided in
order to insure the head receiving a true vertical rise and fall.

§65

JACQUARDS

■^

It is in some cases necessary to lace
cards that have been punched in the piano
machine, while in other cases it is neces-
sary to lace a set of blank cards. For
instance, after the pattern has been punched
in the cards by the piano machine, since this
machine does not lace the cards together,
it is necessary to pass them through the
lacing machine, in order that they may be
in suitable form to be attached to the
jacquard machine; while if it is desired to
lace cards together that are afterwards
to have the pattern punched in them, as
described later, it is necessary to pass
blank cards through the lacing machine.

In case it is desired to lace cards that
have the pattern punched in them, the peg
holes and the lace holes will also have
been punched; therefore, in case the peg-
hole punches on this machine are now
made to operate, there is some liability of
their enlarging the peg holes previously
punched, which would be detrimental to
the good work of the cards when placed
on the cylinder of the jacquard machine.
This is provided for as follows, reference
being made to Fig. 19, which is a plan
view of the head: A plate //, that is
bolted to the head rests directly over the
punches, as shown in the figure; conse-
quently, when the head is forced down,
the punches, coming against this plate, are
brought down with the head and puncture
the cards. When, however, it is not
desired to use the peg punches, the bolts
^,0 are loosened and the plate ^, moved
to the right. This brings the hole ^,i
directly over the peg punch A, at this end

§65 JACQUARDS 29

of the head, while the slot in the plate h. through which the
bolt Ai, at the extreme right of the plate passes is enlarged
sufficiently at its right-hand end to allow the peg punch at
this end of the plate to pass through the slot. When the
plate is in this position and the head is brought down, if
the lower end of the peg punch does not exactly fit the peg
hole previously cut in the card, the punch will be pushed
up through the holes in the plate ^„ and consequently will
not enlarge the peg holes previously cut.

By properly constructing the plate ^„ the lace-hole
punches may be rendered inoperative by the same move-
ment of the plate that renders the peg-hole punches inopera-
tive. It is not an uncommon practice, however, to so
arrange the holes in the plate h^ as to keep the lace-hole
punches in an operative condition, in order to cut the lace
holes in the cards in the lacing machine. Lace holes can be
cut in this machine much more quickly than in the piano
machine and with sufficient accuracy for lacing purposes.
It will be noticed that in Fig. 19 two additional punches are
shown at each end of the head and also in the center. These
punches are for the purpose of making small semicircular
cut-outs at the edges of the card. These cut-outs, of course,
are in direct line with the lace holes and form small spaces
for the lacing cord to pass through, thus allowing the cards
to come closer together than would otherwise be possible.

17. Carrier Chain. — The drive of the sprocket carrier
chain ;' is shown in Fig. 20. The sprocket gear /\ and
ratchet gear Z, are both fastened to the same shaft and the
latter is revolved by means of the pawl Z* on the lever /..
The chain / imparts the motion of /, to /,. Connected to the
lever /. is a rod /. that, in turn, is connected at its lower end
to a lever /', pivoted on the stud /„. The lever /, carries at
its other end a cam-bowl z. that by means of the spring /,„ is
kept constantly in contact with the face of the cam /. on the
shaft //. As the cam /. revolves, the projections on the cam
raise the cam-bowl /., while the depressions on the cam allow
the spring /jo to lower the cam-bowl. This up-and-down

or me cam-bowl being communicated to the pawl iu
j^n levers ij, i\ and rod /,, will cause the pawl to turn
J ratchet gear /«, which, as it is fast to the shaft carrying the
ocket gear t\, will turn this gear, thus driving the chain iV
e pegs in the chain / are so spaced that when they pass
ough the peg holes of the cards, the cards will be the cor-
rect distance apart for being placed on the jacquard cylinden
In lacing the cards, the needle j\ Fig, 16. is passed
rough each lace hole at one end of the cards and also
itween two consecutive cards The distance between the
0 lace holes on one end of the card is greater than the
tance between one of these lace holes and that edge of
lie card at which it is situated; consequently, when the
'^edle is passed through the first lace hole of a card and it
necessary to move the card into position for the needle to
►ass through the other lace hole of the same card, the
:*in 1 must be given a greater motion than is necessary
m moving the card forwards to bring it into position for
needle to pass down between this card and the next one
Ldr the needle has passed through the second lace hole,
order to give this varying motion to the chain i\ the
^lU It, Fig* 20, has a deeper depression so as to allow the
pawl u to move back over the long tooth in the ratchet /„
thus giving a greater movement when moving the card
from one lace hole to the other than at any other time; the
ratchet gear z^ has its teeth spaced to agree with the face of
the cam /,.

To understand more fully this point, the position of the
different parts will be followed, starting with the cam-bowl u
and the cam z, in the position shown in Fig. 20. When
the parts are in this position, the needle has passed through
the first lace hole of the card and had its thread locked by
the shuttle. It is now necessary to move the card from the
first to the second lace hole — a greater movement than is
given to the card at any other time. As the point on the
cam with which the cam-bowl is in contact in Fig. 20 is
nearer the center of the cam than any other part, the cam-
bowl when moving from its present position to the

§65

JACQUARDS

point 1, will £:ive the greatest throw to the pawl iV and
bring the second lace hole of the card directly under the
needle* As the cam is moving from I to 2, the needle will
pass through this lace hole, while the pawl /* will be brougfht
back to engage with the next tooth of the gear /., The cam-
bowl in moving from 2 to 3 moves the cards sufficiently to
bring the space between the laced card and the next one
directly below the needles. As the cam-bowl is moving from
3 to 4 the needle passes between the two cards, while the
[pawl r\ is again brought back to engage with the next tooth
of the ratchet t\. From ^ to 5 is occtipied in moving the

^ chain forwards until the first hole of the second card is
brought below the needles, while from 5 to the x^oint at
which the cam -bowl is shown resting on the cam. is occtipied
in passing the needles through the first holes of this second
card and bringing the pawl /* back for its greatest throw.

[ 18* Laelnitr Mechanlsm,^ — The needles /» Fig, 16» are
attached to a rack j\ having teeth that engage with the
gear J, situated on the shaft /,» This shaft, as shown in
Fig. 15, carries three gears similar to /,, each of which drives
a rack /. carrying a needle /V Fast to the shaft jt, Fig. 16,

ingag^ed by a quadrant/, that is connected to a

s lower connections of this rod are shown in

*i. At one end of the shaft // is a cam /,^, also shown

Fig 15i that has working in its course a cam-bowl /", car-

d by an arm /, that is attached to /n, which also carries an

m j\ that is attached to the lower end of the rod/.. The

rms jjjj\ act as an elbow lever and serve to raise and lower

oe rod/, and, consequently; the quadrant/*, Fig:. 16* as the

m revolves. This up-and-down motion of the quadrant/*,

Qg transmitted to the shaft /■ by the ^eary"^. gives the

ired motion^ by means of the gears/,, to the racks/^ and

Pig. 22

needles /. The cam /,«, Fig. 21, is so constructed as to give
three complete up-and-down motions to the racks for every
revolution that it makes, while, in addition, there is also
given to the racks when at their extreme downward position
a slight upward motion, after which they are again brought
to their extreme lowest position. This motion is provided
in order to cause the cord drawn through the needle to form
a slight loop below the cards, which is sufficiently large for
the nose of the shuttle k to enter, as shown in Fig. 22.

For each set of lace holes there is a support similar to >&,,
Fig. 16, that carries a shuttle k; the support is carried by an
arm k^ attached to a shaft k,. An arm k^ that is also attached

§65 JACQUARDS 83

to the shaft k^ is connected to an eccentric rod *, operated by
an eccentric k. on the shaft ^,; consequently, as the shaft k^
revolves, the eccentric ^., through the^ eccentric rod k^ and
arm k^y gives an oscillating motion to the shaft ^a, which,
being communicated to the shuttle through the arm ^„ gives
it its desired motion. These parts are so timed that the
shuttle moves to the right just as the loop is formed in the
cord carried by the needle j. The shaft k, is the driving

Fig. 23

shaft of the machine and carries a gear k. driving the gear k^
on the shaft //. The gear k. contains 25 teeth, while the
gear k^ contains 75 teeth; consequently, the former makes
three revolutions to one of the latter.

The position of the shuttle k and needle /, just as the point
of the shuttle is entering the loop of the cord carried by the
needle, is shown in Fig. 22, while the stitch formed by this
operation is shown in Fig. 23, which illustrates cards laced

f^m

§66 JACQUARDS 85

tog:ether by this machine. It will be noticed that the cord
carried by the needle is always above the cards, while the
cord carried by the shuttle is always below the cards; these
two cords, however, are crossed at each lace hole and
also between consecutive cards.

REPEATING

AUTOMATIC REPEATING MACHINE

19. If a number of jacquard machines are to have the
same desig:n woven in them, after a set of cards for one
jacquard has been cut on the piano machine, it may be dupli-
cated as many times as desired by means of a machine
known as a repeater. As this is done automatically and
with certain accuracy, the repeating machine saves consider-
able time and expense as well as insures perfect results.
Fig. 24 shows a view of this machine, of the Royle type,
while Fig. 25 is a section through the same, showing the
principal parts. Referriug to these two figures, the carriage /
is a hood covering certain portions of the machine. It is
given a horizontal reciprocating motion and its sides /, rest
on the top of the machine. . At. its forward end it supports
a buffer /„ while at its rear end it carries a cylinder /, similar
to the cylinders on jacquard machines. Enclosed by the
carriage are selecting needles /*, Fig. 25, supported by the
framework of the machine. Attached to these needles are
levers h pivoted on rods /. that extend from one side of the
repeater to the other and are supported by the sides of the
machine. Connected to the lower ends of the levers /, are
rods m, known as key zvires, controlling keys, the forward ends
of which are situated directly above punches ;//,. It will be
noticed, by referring to Fig. 25, that the key wires vary in
length, the upper ones being the longest; the punches also
vary in length, the longest being situated in the outside row
and the shortest in the inside row.

The operation of these parts is as follows: The cards of
the set that has been cut by the piano machine are laced

^ W/f JACQUARDS S65

together and passed around the cylinder /», Fig, 25. As this
cylinder is brought against the face of the selecting needles /*,
those needles that come in contact with the portion of the
card that iii not cut, are pushed to the left by the card, which
gives a corresponding motion to the upper ends of the levers />
and results in the lower ends of these levers being mov^ed to
the right. This motion of the lower ends of the levers /.
throws the key wires m and the keys to which they are con-
nected to the rights moving them out of the path of the
punches m^. On the other hand, the selecting needles /.
that come opposite holes in the card on the cylinder /,*
together with the levers attached to them, remain stationary;
and the key wires m and keys, since they are as far to the
left as they can go, will therefore lock their respective
pimches m,. The cards that are to be punched are laced
together as previously described and passed i through the
repeater; one of these cards ^ shown in |io^itiDn to be cut
at /» Fig. 25, When in this position, the card rests on a
carriage 71 that is situated directly under the punches w, and
has a vertical reciprocating motygn] j\s iW oard / is brought
into position below the punches, the cafriage u rises, carry-
ing the card with it. Those punches that are not locked by
the keys arc pu&>hcd up by the card, aud ^juuscquctiLiy uo
not puncture it, while those punches that are locked by the
keys remain stationary and are pushed through the card as
it is forced up by the carriage n. By this means, the holes
punched in the cards that come under the punches w, are
exact duplicates of the holes in the cards that pass around
the cylinder /,.

In order to clearly understand the action of the selecting
needles, together with the keys of this machine, it should be
remembered that the selecting needles /* receive no motion
except that imparted to them by the card on the cylinder
or by the buffer, while it is the carriage / carrying the buffer /,
and cylinder /, that moves back and forth. When, this
carriage is moved to the left, the card on the cylinder is
brought in contact with one end of the selecting needles,
and when the carriage is moved to the right, the

^' )

iC l4SfiAKT

Tar,

§65

JACQUARDS

buffer /, is brougrht in contact with the other end of

the needles and moves those previously pushed ' to the

• left by the card until all the levers /■ are in their

' original positions* It will be noticed that the two faces

of the buffer /., Fig. 25, are not of the same size.

This buffer is capable of being turned over, so that its

larger face may be used when cards are being cut for a

jacquard machine with 12 hooks in its short row» while the

I smaller face is used for cutting: cards for a machine with

8 hooks in its short row*

20. The manner in which the carriage n, Fig. 25, is
given its vertical reciprocating motion is as follows: Keyed
to the driving shaft ;/, is a bevel gear n^ that drives a bevel
gear «* on the shaft w,. This shaft, at its forw^ard end, car-
ries an eccentric, or crank, w, working in a crosshead rt, that
rests in the carriage n. As the shaft n^ revolves, any hori-
zontal motion impart©d-b7:t1i0"4:3*aTik Jf/is taken up by the
crosshead /?,, while any vefti^al mo^idn is imparted to the
carriage n, thus raising and lowering it. The board »,,
Fig. 24, is directly oter the cro^ssl|i^aii «* and forms a casing
for this part of the mAchfijV' .^'*'^ "/'.. .'

Fig* 26 shows the drive for certain parts of the machine,
also the position that the tw^o sets of cards occupy* The
cards s are those that have been cut and that are to be
duplicated. They pass over the guide roll j^ tinder the
roll s^, and then to the cylinder /,. From the cylinder /, they
slide over guides j* and finally rest on the cradle j,. The
cylinder h is turned primarily by the eccentric fe» on the
shaft A* Connected to this eccentric is an eccentric rod /&„
that carries a sleeve p», attached to which is a lever A piv-
oted at A- Attached to the lever A '^ a pawl p^ working a
pin on the gear ^,. This gear drives a gear p on the end of
the cylinder /,. As the eccentric revolves on the shaft p^,
the rod p^^ is forced up. bringing the projection^, in contact
with the collar A and forcing the pawl A ^^ the left, turning
the gear pt, which drives the gear p and thus turns the
cylinder /,* As the eccentric continues to revolve, the rod /^„

JACQUARDS

jeing lowered bring^s the set nuts /. in contact with the

^Uar /,, thus bringing the pawl back into such a position

t it will engage with the next pin on the ^^ear p,. lo

,er to understand fully the action of this pawl» it should be

iderstood that the carriage / is continually being moved,

rst in one direction and then in the other. The fulcrum ^,

f the lever p^ is also fixed to the carriage /, so that as die

:er moves, the position of A relative to the gears /», and pt^

naintained. It is as the carriage is being moved to the

.^.4 that the pawl ^> revolves the c^Hnder A. In this manner

^he cylinder is away from the needles when it turns, and

lonsequently there is no liability of its injuring the points

of the needles.

Sometimes the cards s are moved in the opposite direction
:o that shown by the arrows in Fig. 26; in such cases it is
'essary to revolve the cylinder /, in the opposite direction.
5 is accomplished by swinging the pawl p, over until it
npies the position shown by the dotted lines, when it will
ge with the gear p,, and, as it turns this gear, it will
volve the cylinder /n in the opposite direction.
The cards A Fig, 26, that are to be cut, are moved in the
direction shown by the arrows in this fij^urc. They pass
over the guide roller /» and thence directly through the
machine and to the cylinder g, which is revolved by means
of a crank ^,o driven by the shaft p„ Attached to this crank
is a rod g, that passes through a sleeve ^., to which is
attached a lever g» carrying at its upper end a pawl ^« that
engages with the ratchet g» on the gear ^,. This gear
engages with the gear ^, on the end of the cylinder g.
As the rod g» is moved forwards and backwards by the
crank ^,o, the casting g, and nut g^ will alternately come in
contact with the sleeve ^„ thus moving the pawl ^« back-
wards and forwards, so that it will engage with and move
the ratchet g,.

21. In order that the keys that are to be moved to the
left may be unobstructed, all punches must be level. To
bring down those that were forced up by the card just cut, a

§65

JACQUARDS

plate yxy Fig. 25, is forced into contact with collars y on the
punches wi,. This plate is operated independently of any
other part of the carriage n\ its motion is derived from the
eccentric r, on the shaft ^„ Fig. 26. This eccentric is con-
nected to a rod r, that carries the projection r*, set nuts r„

Fig. 27

and collar r,, which is attached to the lever r. The lever r
is secured to the outside end of a shaft that extends entirely
through the forward portion of the key box. On the outside
of the key box at each end of this shaft are secured forked

40 JACQUAltDS §66

levers that connect with sliding: blocks, which in tnm are
connected by means of pivots to vertical slides that support
the plate yx at its opposite ends.

22. The method of imparting motion to the carriasre /,
Pig. 24, is shown in Pig. 27. The carriage carries a stud /,
that works in the upper end of the lever v pivoted at Vx\ the
lower end of this lever carries a cam-bowl v^ working in the
course of the cam v^. As the cam revolves it forces the cam-
bowl t'., together with the lower end of the lever v, first to
the right and then to the left, thus imparting a swinging
motion to the upper end of the lever, which being conveyed
to the carriage / by means of the stud /, gives to this
carriage its horizontal reciprocating motion.

28. In order to make certain that the card to be punched
is in its correct position below the punches, two pegs w^
Pig. 27 (one at each side of the machine), are passed
through the peg holes of the card to be punched and hold it
securely in its correct position. These pegs are operated
independently of the punches, as shown in this figure.
Connected to the shaft p. is an eccentric w^ operating an
eccentric rod w^ that passes through a sleeve a/*. The latter
is attached to a lever w^ pivoted on the shaft ?i/,. This shaft
extends across the width of the machine and carries at each
end an arm Wx attached to a peg w. As the eccentric 7l\
revolves, the rod w^ is moved up and down, bringing the
collar w^ and set nuts u\ alternately in contact with the
sleeve w^y thus imparting an oscillating motion to the shaft u\,
which being imparted to the arm w^ lowers and raises the
pegs w.

-xf^

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Full text of "International Library of Technology; a series of textbooks for persons engaged in the engineering professions and trades, or for those who desire information concerning them"

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