Full text of "Iowa leaves, six chapters"

See other formats

!■:

NYPL RESEARCH LIBRARIES

3 3433 08192006 2

^\\i

-V

/ :

THE NEW YORK
iPtJBLiC LIBRARY

Aaron, linox and ,

lUtJOaW POUNDATIONS

^^-

(}'^':>

\MW

u
Q

O
H

u
u

H
H

Iowa Leaves

SIX CHAPTERS

CLARA B. ROUSE

"Some said, 'John, print it'; others said, not so.
Some said, it might do good; others said, no."

— John Bunyan

1891

ILLINOIS PRINTING AND BINDING CO.
CHICAGO

i-t,

ImNfcwT
Ipublic li&babt

[flLD«NfOUNDA;iON

PRESS OF

ILLINOIS PRINTING AND BINDING CO.

CHICAGO.

THE STATE OF IOWA,

KING BLUE GRASS, KING CORN

AND KING COAL

THIS BOOK IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED

BY THE

AUTHORESS

CLARA B. ROUSE

Three kings there are to rule the earth,

And mightier none could be;

Howe'er he strives, no man alive

From their control is free.

And one is yellow, and one is black.

And one is green, we know;

The yellow one is the youngest one,

But not the strongest, though.

By these and theirs, the world's affairs

They vigorously control.

And the names these mighty monarchs bear

Are Corn, Blue Grass and Coal.

INTRODUCTION.

While it is the privilege of many to visit and observe
different portions of our country — as traveling has greatly
increased in late years, and as facilities are multiplied, is
likely to increase still more — yet it is chiefly confined to cer-
tain classes by no means numerically large. There are others
who are cut off from this species of amusement and inform-
ation— they have neither the requisite leisure nor sufficient
wealth, perhaps; many also are unfitted for traveling by reason
of habit or disposition, new objects would neither please nor
profit them. But for such a privation is there no idemnity?
Must they who cannot visit places of interest and amusement,
and view with their own eyes, the varieties of pleasurable
objects within our own State, always remain in ignorance?
Happily this is not the severe condition of their being. It is
not necessary to forego the pleasure and advantage of a
varied and extensive knowledge of the world ; they may enjoy
it at home and in every season of the year, even amidst the
frosts and confinements of winter. They may travel and view
the interesting points of our State described in this book, and
never quit the fireside or porticoes of their own homes. If
it be necessary to explain to our readers how this can be
done, we will begin by supposing that the long evenings of
winter are at hand, the storm rages abroad, the wind howls
around your dwellings, but you are quietly seated by your
comfortable fire, and you wish some amusing and yet pro-

INTRODUCTION.

fitable employment in which to pass away the hours. We
propose then to make a travehng excursion, a sort of tarry
at home journey, or trip throughout the State of Iowa.

We will endeavor by giving a condensed, yet sufficiently
extensive history of the State, from the first settlement down
to the present time. Early reminiscences of the pioneers,
their customs and mode of living, with short sketches of
adventure; the discovery of the great Father of Waters that '
forms the eastern boundary, the enterprise and genius of our
present citizens, soil and climate, railroad facilities, our manu-
factures, coal mines, products of our soil, with full and com-
plete description of the Blue Grass regions of southwest Iowa,
and the great Blue Grass palaces of 1889 and '90, at Creston,
Union county, the Coal Palace regions of southeast Iowa and
Black Diamond Palace at Ottumwa in Wapello county, the
Corn Palace regions of northwest Iowa and Corn Palace at
Sioux City, reminicences of northeast and central Iowa, and
description of the capitol city Des Moines, and other places of
interest in our state.

We have been so far encouraged by the patronage vouch-
safed, that this work has been extended far be3'ond the scope
originally intended. Our solicitude for the success of the
enterprise in a business sense was natural, but has not been our
sole solicitude.

We have likewise intensely desired to make the work
reliable, full and attractive, and thereby to merit the public
favor which the people of the state have extended to us.

In presenting the work to our many hundred readers, we
have the satisfaction of knowing that they are of sufficient
intelligence to appreciate merit when found, and further be-
lievinfy that errors will be criticised with the understanding

INTRODUCTION.

that book-making, like all other kinds of labor, has its peculiar
vicissitudes.

We have been materially aided in the preparation of this
work by some persons in the state, who made no claim for
compensation, and we expect no reward except that which
comes from conciousness of having aided in a worthy enter-
prise, and deserve the thanks of the citizens in the counties
where they reside.

As self-knowledge is the most important, and a knowledge
of our own country is to be preferred to that of all others, we
will take a survey of ourselves, and when you have done this,
if )"Ou become weary, you may retreat and we will endeavor to
enlist some one else to accompany us. It is our purpose, how-
ever, to make the circuit so interesting, that instead of leaving
us we expect you will cling the closer the longer we travel
together. Should any of our readers not appreciate the work,
the time will come when their children will.

Without further preface we will commence our review of
the greatest state in the Union — Iowa.

Clara B. Rouse.

CONTENTS.

PAGE

General Descriptive Sketch of the State and First Settlement by the Whites. . 17

Enterprise and Progress— Founding of State Institutions, etc. — History of

the Great Father of Waters— Boating in Early Days 55

Southwestern Iowa — Beauties of the Blue Grass Regions and Blue Grass

Palace at Creston, Union County 85

Burlington Route 227

Southwestern Iowa — A Romance of King Coal 251

Northeastern Iowa — Corn Palace Regions and Corn Palace — Pioneer Periods

of the Northwest, etc 349

Early Reminiscences of Northeast and Central Iowa and Description of the

Capital City , 393

Conclusion — Iowa; Its Agricultural Advantages and Inducements to Emi-
gration 446

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

Iowa State Capitol Frontispiece

Encampment on the Mississippi 20

Scene on Grand River 23

Spirit Lake 25

Indian at Home - 33

Going to Church in Iowa in Early Days 36

Chief Keokuk 40

Indians Hunting the Buffalo 44

Squaws Guarding the Corn 48

A Pioneer Cabin 50

An Iowa Home in Early Days 51

Log School-house 63

Col. Robt. Robinson 65

Gen. A. C. Dodge 66

Marquette and Joliet Entering the Mississippi 67

Indian Peace Pipes 69

Indian Canoe 71

The Institution for Feeble-Minded Children 74

Blue Grass Palace of 1891 88

Lake Maurine, near Creston > 97

Court-House 98

Scene Looking North on Maple Street 100

Residence of W. F. Patt 102

Residence of R. S. Keith 104

Scene Looking West on Montgomery Street 106

Clothing Store of L. Friend no

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. > 13

F. J. Taylor iiQ

Samson, the Camel 121

Romeo 122

Beauty 122

Beggs Bros. Wagon 1 24

Creston High School 1 26

St. Malachy's Church 127

Congregational Church 1 28

First Methodist Episcopal Church 129

Fairview Place in Montgomery County 152

A Farm Residence in Montgomery County 1 53

Shorthorn Farm of Wayne Stennett 1 55

Hon. John Y. Stone's Fruit Farm 1 58

Court-House, Glenwood, Mills County 161

County Court-House, Fremont County 168

Court-House, Clarinda 1 72

High School, Clarinda I74

Court Street, Bedford, Looking North 178

Main Street, Bedford— Looking West I79

Bedford Business College 181

High School, Bedford 182

Court-House, Leon, Decatur County 185

Farmers' and Traders' Bank, Leon 186

West Side Square, Leon 188

Main Street, Leon— Looking South 189

Court-House, Centreville, Appanoose County 192

Standard Coal Company, Centreville I94

Walnut Coal Company, Centreville 196

Diamond Coal Company, Centreville i97

Present View of Ottumwa from Coal Palace Town 260

Union Passenger Depot, Ottumwa 265

14 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Johnson Ruffler Works, Ottumwa 268

New Postofifice Building, Ottumwa 270

W. T. Harper's Residence, Ottumwa 273

Ottumwa Coal Palace 276

Officers of Coal Palace Association . 279

Hotel Garretson, Sioux City 362

United Bank Building, Sioux City 364

Grand Opera House — Chamber of Commerce — First M. E. Church— Metro-
politan Block, Sioux City 366

Sioux City Corn Palace 378

General Geo. W. Jones, Pioneer of Northeastern Iowa 395

Grand Opera House, Des Moines 421

Savery House, West Locust Street, Des Moines 424

Callahan College, Des Moines 429

The Equitable Building, Des Moines 435

The Youngerman Block, Des Moines 436

PART FIRST

IOWA LEAVES

GENERAL DESCRIPTIVE SKETCH OF THE STATE

AND FIRST SETTLEMENTS BY THE WHITES.

DRIVING OUT THE INDIANS, ETC.

IOWA LEAVES.

DESCRIPTIVE SKETCH OF THE STATE AND FIRST SETTLE-
MENT BY THE WHITES.

CHAPTER I.

Iowa is one of the most beautiful states in the Union, and
is bounded on the north by the state of Minnesota, on the east
by Ilhnois and Wisconsin, on the south by Missouri and on the
west by Nebraska and Dakota, and is about 300 miles in length,
east and west, and a little over 200 miles in breadth, north and
south, having nearly the figure of a rectangular parallelogram.

Its northern boundary is the parallel of 43 degrees 30 min-
utes, separating it from the state of Minnesota. Its southern
limit is nearly on the line of 40 degrees 31 minutes from the
point where this parallel crosses the Des Moines river west-
ward. From this point to the southeast corner of the state, a
distance of about thirty miles, the Des Moines river forms the
boundary line between Iowa and Missouri.

The two o^reat rivers of the North American continent
form the east and west boundaries proper, except that portion
of the western boundary adjoining the state of Dakota.

The Big Sioux river, from its mouth two miles above
Sioux City, intersects the parallel of 43 degrees 30 minutes.

18 ■ IOWA LEAVES.

These limits embrace an area of 55,045 square miles or 35,228,-
800 acres. When it is understood that all this vast extent of
surface, except that which is occupied by the rivers and lakes
and peat beds of the northern counties, is susceptible of the
highest cultivation, some idea ma}' be formed of the immense
agricultural resources of the state.

Iowa is nearly as large as England, and twice as large as
Scotland, but, when we consider the relative area of surface
which may be made to yield the wants of man, those countries
of the old world will bear no comparison with Iowa. The sur-
face of the state is remarkably uniform, rising to nearly the
same general altitude. There are no mountains, and yet but
little of the surface is level or flat. The whole state presents a
succession of gentle elevations and depressions, with some bold
and picturesque bluffs along the principal streams. The western
portion of the state is generally more elevated than the eastern,
the northwestern part being the highest. Nature could not
have provided a more perfect system of drainage, and, at the
same time, leave the country so completely adapted to all the
purposes of agriculture.

Looking at the map of Iowa v/e see two systems of streams
or rivers, running nearly at right angles with each other. The
streams which discharge their waters into the Mississippi flow
from the northwest to the southeast, while those of the other
system flow toward the southwest, and empty into the Missouri.
The former drain about three-fourths of the state, and the
latter the remaining one-fourth.

The watershed dividing the two systems of streams repre-
sents the highest portions of the state, and gradually descends
as you follow its course from northwest to southeast.

Low water mark in the Missouri river at Council Bluffs

IOWA LEAVES. 19

is about 425 feet above low water mark in the Mississippi at
Davenport. At the crossing of the summit or watershed, 245
miles west of Davenport, the elevation is about 960 feet above
the Mississippi. The Des Moines river, at the city of Des
Moines, has an elevation of 227 feet above the Mississippi at
Davenport, and is 198 feet lower than the Missouri at Council
Bluffs. The elevation of the eastern border of the state at
MacGregor is about 624 feet above the level of the sea, while the
highest elevation in the northwest portion of the state is 1,400
feet above the level of the sea. In addition to the grand water-
shed mentioned above as dividing the waters of the Mississippi
and Missouri, there are between the principal streams eleva-
tions commonly called "divides," which are drained by numer-
ous streams of a smaller size tributary to the rivers. The
valleys along the streams have a deep rich soil, but are scarcely
more fertile than many portions of those undulating prairie
"■divides."

The rivers of Iowa are divided into two systems or classes
— those flowing into the Mississippi, and those flovving into the
Missouri. The Mississippi river, the largest on the continent,
and one of the largest in the world, washes the entire eastern
border of the state, and is, most of the year, navigable for a
large class of steamers. The only serious obstruction to
steamers of the laro^est size is what is knov/n as the Lower
Rapids, just above the mouth of the Des Moines. The govern-
ment of the United States has constructed a canal or channel
around these rapids on the Iowa side of the river, a work which
will prove of immense advantage to the commerce of Iowa for
all time to come. The principal rivers which flow through the
interior of the state, east of the watershed, are the Des Moines,
Skunk and Iowa. One of the largest rivers in the state is Red

INDIAN ENCAMPMENT ON THE MISSISSIPPI.

IOWA LEAVES. 21

Cedar, which rises in Minnesota, and, flowing in a southeasterly
direction, joins its waters with Iowa river in Louisa county,
only about thirty miles from its mouth, that portion below the
junction retaining the name of Iowa river, although above the
junction it is really the smaller stream. The Des Moines is the
largest interior river of the state, and rises in a group or chain
of lakes in Minnesota, not far from the Iowa border. It really
has its source in two principal branches, called East and West
Des Moines, which, after flowing about seventy miles through
the northern portion of the state, converge to their junction in
the southern part of Humboldt county. The Des Moines
receives a number of large tributaries, and flows from northwest
to southeast not less than 300 miles through Iowa, and drains
over 10,000 square iniles of territory. At an early day steam-
boats, at certain seasons of the year, navigated this river as far
up as the "Raccoon Forks," and a large grant of land was made
by Congress to the state for the purpose of improving its navi-
gation. The land was subsequently diverted to the construction
of the Des Moines Valley railroad.

The next river above the Des Moines is Skunk, which has
its source in Hamilton county, north of the center of the state.
It traverses a southeast course, having two principal branches,
their aggregate length being about 450 miles. They drain
about 8,000 square miles of territory, and afford many excellent
mill sites.

The next is the Iowa river, which drains about 12,000
square miles of territory. The "Wapsie" furnishes splendid
water-power for machiner\', while the Maquoketa drains about
3,000 miles of rich territory.

The Turkey river drains about 2,000 square miles. Upper
Iowa river passes through a narrow, but picturesque and beau-

22 IOWA LEAVES.

tiful valley, affording ample water-power for machinery at
numerous points.

Having mentioned the rivers which drain the eastern three-
fourths of the state, we will now cross the great "watershed"
to the Missouri and its tributaries.

The Big Sioux river empties into the Missouri about two
miles above Sioux City, and drains about i,ooo square miles
of Iowa territory. The Floyd river flows through a rich and
beautiful valley, and drains about 15,000 square miles. The
Little Sioux river is one of the most important streams of
northwestern Iowa. It rises in the vicinity of Spirit and
Okoboji lakes, near the Minnesota line, and meanders through
various counties, a distance of nearly 300 miles, and, with its
tributaries, drains not less than 5,000 square miles. Boyer river
is the next stream of considerable size below the Little Sioux
— about 150 miles in length — and flows through a rich and
lovely valley. The Nishnabotna river empties into the Mis-
souri some twenty miles below the southwest corner of the state.
It has three principal branches, with an aggregate length of 350
miles. These streams drain about 5,000 square miles of south-
western Iowa. They flow through valleys of unsurpassed
beauty and fertility, and furnish good water-power at various
points.

The southern portion of the state is drained by several
streams that flow into the Missouri- the most important of
these are Chariton, Grand, Platte, One Hundred and Two, and
the three Nodaways — East, West and Middle. All of these
afford water-power for machinery, and present splendid valle3's
of rich farming lands.

We have above only mentioned the streams that have been
designated as rivers, but there are many other streams of great

a
<
o

u
z

u
u

C/3

24 IOWA LEAVES.

importance and value to different portions of the state, draining
the country, furnishing mill sites and adding to the variety and
beauty of the scenery. So admirable is the natural drainage of
almost the entire state that the farmer who has not a stream of
living water on his premises is an exception to the general rule.
In some of the northern counties of Iowa there are many small
but beautiful lakes, some of which we shall notice; the follow-
ing are among the most noted of the lakes in northern Iowa:
Clear lake, Rice lake. Twin lakes, Owl lake, Lake Gertrude,
Elm lake. Wall lake, Swan lake. Storm lake, Okoboji and Spirit
lakes. Nearly all of these are deep and clear, abounding in many
varieties of excellent hsh, which are caught abundantly by the
settlers at all proper seasons of the year All of them, except
Storm lake, have fine bodies of timber on their borders. Oko-
boji is the most beautiful of all the northern lakes in Iowa.
Walter Scott could not invest the historic lakes of Scotia with
more of the wild beaut}^ of scenery, suggestive of poetry and
romance, than we here find around the loveliest of Iowa lakes.
The eastern half of the state contains a larger proportion of
timber than the western. The following are the leading varie-
ties of timber: White, black and burr oak, black walnut, butter-
nut, hickory, hard and soft maple, cherry, red and white elm,
ash, hnn, hackberry, birch, honey locust, cottonwood, quaking
asp and sycamore Groves of red cedar also prevail, especially
along Iowa and Cedar rivers, and a few isolated pine trees are
scattered along the bluffs of some of the streams in the northern
part of the state.

CLIMATE.

Prof. Parvin, who has devoted great attention to the clima-
tology of Iowa, in a series of observations made by him at Mus-

26 IOWA LEAVES.

catine from 1839 to 1859, inclusive, and at Iowa Cit}' from i860
to 1870, inclusive, deduces the following general results: That
the months of November and March are essentially nvinter
months, their average temperature rising but a few degrees
above the freezing point. Much of the former month is indeed
mild and pleasant, but in it usually comes the tirst cold spell,
followed generally by mild weather, while in March the farmer
is often enabled to commence his spring plowing. September
has usually a summer temperature, and proves a ripening season
for the fall crops, upon which the farmer may rely with safety
if the spring has been at all backward. May has much more
the character of a spring month than that of summer, and
"May Day "is not often greeted with a profusion of flowers.
The average temperature of May during thirty-two years was
59.06 degrees, while that of September was 63.37 degrees.
Prof. Parvin states that during thirty-five years the mercury
rose to 100 degrees only once within the region of his observa-
tions in Iowa, and that was during the summer of 1870. It
seldom rises above 95 degrees, or falls lower than 15
degrees below zero. The highest temperature, with very few
exceptions, occurs in the month of August, while July is the
hottest month, as indicated by the mean temperature of the
summer months. January is the coldest month, and in this only
once in thirty-two years did the mercury fall to 30 degrees
below zero. The prevailing winds are those of a westerly
direction, not for the year alone, but for the several months of
the year, except June, Jul}^, August and September. August is
the month in which the greatest amount of rain falls, and in
January the least. The greatest fall of rain in any one year was
in 185 1 — 94.49 inches, and the least in 1854 — 23.35 if^ches.
The greatest fall of snow for any one year was in 1868 — 61.97

IOWA LEAVES. 27

inches. The least was in 1850 — 7.90 inches. The earhest fall
of snow during twenty-two years from 1848 to 1869, inclusive,
was October 17, 1859, and the Jatest April 29, 1851. The
greatest fall was December 21, 1848 — 20.50 inches. Rain usu-
ally occurs in each of the winter months.

SOILS.

Dr. White has separated the soils of Iowa into three
general divisions, viz. : the drift, bluff and alluvial. The drift
soil occupies the greater portion of the state, the bluff next, and
the alluvial the least. The drift is derived primarily from the
disintegration of rocks, to a considerable extent perhaps from
those of Minnesota, which were subject to violent glacial action
during the glacial epoch. This soil is excellent, and is generally
free from coarse drift materials, especially near the surface.

The bluff soil occupies an area estimated at about 5,000
square miles in the western part of the state. It has many
peculiar and marked characteristics, and is believed to be
lacustral in its origin. In some places the deposit is as great
as 200 feet in thickness, all portions of it being equal in
fertility. If this soil be taken from its lowest depth — say
200 feet below the surface — vegetation germinates and
thrives as readily in it as in the surface deposit. It is of a
slightly yellowish ash color, except when mixed with decaying
vegetation. It is composed mainly of silica, but the silicious
matter is so finely pulverized that the naked e3'e is unable to
perceive anything like sand in its composition. The bluffs along
the Missouri river in the western part of the state are composed
of this material.

The alluvial soils are the "bottom" lands along the river
and smaller streams. They are the washings of other soils

28 IOWA LEAVES.

mixed with decayed vegetable matter. They vary somewhat
in character and fertiHty, but the best of them are regarded as
the most fertile soils in the state. As to the localities occupied
by each of these different soils, it may be stated that the drift
forms the soil of all the higher plains and wood lands of the
state, except a belt along the western border, which is occupied
by the bluff soil, or bluff deposit, as it is generally called. The
alluvial occupies the low lands, both prairie and timber along
the streams. It may be remarked that the alluvial soil com-
posing the broad belt of "bottom " along the Missouri partakes
largely of the bluff soil, owing to continued washings from the
high lands or bluffs adjacent.

ECONOMIC GEOLOGY.

Every year is adding to our knowledge and attesting
the importance and value of our vast coal deposits. In some
unknown age of the past, long before the history of our race
began, nature, by some wise process, made a bountiful provision
for the time when, in the order of things, it should become
necessary for civilized man to take possession of these broad
rich prairies. As an equivalent for the lack of trees, she quietly
stored away beneath the soil those wonderful carboniferous
treasures for the use and comfort of man at the proper time.
The increased demand for coal has, in many portions of the
state, led to improved methods of mining, so that in many
counties the busmess has become a lucrative and important one,
especially where railroads furnish the means of transportation.
The coalfield of the state embraces an area of at least 20,000
square miles, and coal is successfully mined in about thirty
counties, embracing a territory larger than the state of Massa-
chusetts. Among the most important coal producing counties

IOWA LEAVES. 2i^

may be mentioned Appanoose, Boone, Davis, Jefferson,
Mahaska, Marion, Monroe, Polk, Van Buren, Wapello, Lucas
and Webster. Within the last few 3-ears m.any discoveries of
new deposits have been made, and counties not previously
numbered amonof the coal counties of the state are now vieldinsf
. rich returns to the miner. Among them may be mentioned the
counties of Boone, Dallas, Hamilton, Hardin and Van Buren.
A vein of coal of excellent quality seven, feet in thickness has
been opened_, and is now being successfully worked about five
miles southeast of Fort Dodge, in Webster county. Large
quantities of coal are shipped from that point to Dubuque and
the towns along the line of the Dubuque & Sioux City railroad.
A few years ago it was barely known that some coal existed in
Boone county, as indicated by exposures along the Des Moines
river, and it is only within the last few years that the coal-mines
of Moingona have furnished the vast supplies shipped along the
Chicago & Northwestern railroad, both east and west.

The great productive coalfield of Iowa is embraced chiefly
within the valley of the Des Moines river and its tributaries,
extending up the valley from Lee county nearly to the north .
line of Webster county. Within the coalfield embraced by this
valley deep mining is nowhere necessary. The Des Moines and
its larger tributaries have generally cut their channels down
through the coal measure strata.

The coal of Iowa is of the class known as the bituminous^
and is equal in quality and value to coal of the same class in
other parts of the world. The veins which have so far been
worked are from three to eight feet in thickness, but we do
not have to dig from i,ooo to 2,000 feet to reach the coal,
as miners are obliged to do in some countries. But little coal
has in this state been raised from a depth greater than 100 feet.

30 IOWA LEAVES.

BUILDING STONE.

There is no scarcity of good building stone to be found
along nearly all the streams east of the Des Moines river, and
along that stream from its mouth up to the north line of Hum-
boldt county. Some of the counties west of the Des Moines, as
Cass and Madison, as well as most of the southern counties of
the state, are supplied with good building stone. Building stone
of peculiarly fine quality is quarried at and near the following
places: Keosanqua, Van Buren county; Mt. Pleasant, Henry
county; Fairfield, Jefferson county; Ottumwa, Wapello county
Winterset, Madison county; Fort Dodge, Webster coa.ity
Springvale and Dakota, Humboldt county; Marshalltown, Mar
shall county; Orford, Tama count}^; Vinton, Benton county
Charles City, Floyd county; Mason City, Cerro Gordo county
Mitchell and Osage, Mitchell county; Anamoca, Jones county
Iowa Falls, Hardin county; Hampton, Franklin county, and at
nearly all points along the Mississippi river. In some places, as
in Marshall and Tama counties, several species of marble are
found, which are susceptible of the finest finish, and are very
beautiful.

LIME.

Good material for the manufacture of quicklime is found
in abundance in nearly all parts of the state. So abundant is
limestone, suitable for the manufacture of quicklime, that it is
needless to mention any particular locality as possessing
superior advantages in furnishing this useful building material.

LEAD.

Long before the permanent settlement of Iowa by the
whites, lead was mined at Dubuque by Julien Dubuque and
others, and the business is still carried on successfull}'. From

IOWA LEAVES. 31

4,000,000 to 6,000,000 pounds of ore have been smelted annuall}^
at the Dubuque mines, yielding from 68 to 70 per cent, of lead. So
far as known, the lead deposits of Iowa that may be profitably
worked are confined to a belt four or five miles in wndth along
the Mississippi above and below the city of Dubuque.

GYPSUM.

One of the finest and purest deposits of gypsum known in
the world exists at Fort Dodge in this state. It is confined to
an area of about six by three miles on both sides of the
Des Moines river, and is found to be from twenty-five to thirty
feet in thickness. The main deposit is of uniform gray color,
but large masses of almost pure white (resembling alabaster)
have been found imbedded in the main deposits. The quantity
of this article is practically inexhaustible, and the time will
certainly come when it will be a source of wealth to that part
of the state.

SPRING AND WELL WATER.

As before stated, the surface of Iowa is generally drained
by the rolling or undulating character of the countr}', and the
numerous streams, large and small. This fact might lead some
to suppose that it might be difficult to procure good spring or
well water for domestic use. Such, however, is not the case,
for good pure well water is easily obtained all over the state,
even on the highest prairies.

It is rarely necessary to dig more than thirty feet deep to
find an abundance of that most indispensable element, good
water. Along the streams are found many springs breaking
out from the banks, affording a constant supply of pure
water. As a rule, it is necessary to dig deeper for well water
in the timber portions of the state than on the prairies. Nearly

32 IOWA LEAVES.

all the spring ana well waters of the state contain a small pro-
portion of lime, as they do in the eastern and middle states.
There are some springs which contain mineral properties,
similar to the springs often resorted to by invalids and others
in the state. In Davis county there are some "salt springs,''
as they are commonly called, the water being found to contain
a considerable amount of common salt, sulphuric acid and
other mineral ingredients. Mineral waters are found in differ-
ent parts of the state. No one need apprehend any difficulty
about finding in all parts of Iowa an abundant supply of good
wholesome water.

EARLY SETTLEMENTS.

"The first white men who are known to have set their feet
upon the soil of Iowa were James Marquette and Joliet, in 1673,
as is seen in another part of this work. It was 115 3'ears after
the visit of these celebrated French voyageurs before any white
man established a settlement, during which time several genera-
tions of the Indian tribes occupied the valleys of the beautiful
rivers of Iowa, or roamed over her broad prairies. During all
this time they doubtless kept alive among them the tradition of
the strange black-robe chief and his pale-faced companions,
who came in their canoes to see their fathers so many 3'ears
before. It was likewise a Frenchman — Julien Dubuque — who
had the honor of making the first white settlement.

"In 1788, having obtained permission from the Indians, he
crossed the Mississippi with a small party of miners for the pur-
pose of working lead mines at the place where the city is now
located which bears his name, the lead having been discovered
a short time before by the wife of Peosta, a Fox warrior. Du-
buque was a native of France, but had emigrated to Canada and

INDIAN AT HOME.

34 IOWA LEAVES.

become an Indian trader. While engaged in that business he
reached Prairie du Chien, about the year 1785, and with two
other Frenchmen laid out a village which now constitutes the
northern part of that city.

"Except the mining settlement at Dubuque, the first traces
of the white man in Iowa are to be found in Lee county. On
March 30, 1799, Louis Honore Fesson obtained permission
of the Spanish government to establish himself at the head
of the rapids of the river Des Moines for the purpose of
trading with the Indians. The place was at this time occupied
by a half-breed Indian named Red Bird, but known among the
whites as Thomas Abbott. Subsequently the town of Montrose
was located on the ground where Fesson had his trading post
and Red Bird his wick-e-up. Settlers of a later day have felt
much interest in the existence here of some full-grown apple
trees, which must have been planted by some hand long before
the Black Hawk war. It has been claimed by some that they
were planted by Fesson as early as the beginning of the present
century. Hon. D. W. Kilbourne, one of the early settlers of
Lee county, claimed that they were planted by Red Bird some
time between the years 1795 and 1798. Mr. Kilbourne was
personally acquainted with Red Bird, as well as with Black
Hawk and other noted Indians of the Sac and Fox tribes, and
from them he received what he believed to be an authentic
account of the origin of the 'ancient apple orchard' at Montrose.

"It was the custom of the Indians once a year to visit St.
Louis for the purpose of obtaining supplies of blankets and other
articles. The half-breed Red Bird, then a 3'oung man, made
his customary pilgrimage in the early spring, and on his return
stopped a few days at St. Charles on the Missouri river. There
a white man made him a present of about twenty small apple

IOWA LEAVES. 35

trees, and gave him instructions how to plant them. Red Bird
carried the trees home with him, and planted them near his
wick-e-up, placing stakes around them. Nearly all of them
grew, and remained to excite the wonder and curiosity of suc-
ceeding generations of white men.

"In 1809 a military post was established where Fort
Madison is now located, but of course the county was not
open to white settlers until after the 'Black Hawk Purchase.'"

The first settlement made at Burlington and in the vicinity
Avas in the fall of 1832. Daniel Tothero came with his family
and settled on the prairie about three miles from the Mississippi
river. About the same time Samuel White with his family
erected his cabin near the river at what is known as the Upper
Bluff, within the limits of the present city of Burlington.

This was before the extinction of the Indian title, for that
did not take place before January i, 1833, when the govern-
ment acquired the territory under what was known as the
"Black Hawk Purchase." There was then a government mili-
tary post at Rock Island, and some dragoons came down from
that place during the next winter and drove Tothero and White
over the river, burning their cabins. White remained in Illinois
until the first of the following June, when the Indians surren-
dered possession of the ''Black Hawk Purchase," and on that
very day was on the ground and built his second cabin. His
cabin stood on what is now Front street, between Court and
High streets, in the city of Burlington. Soon after Mr. White's
return his brother-in-law, Doolittle, joined him, and in 1834 they
laid out the original town, naming it Burlington for the
town of that name in Vermont. Thus White and Doolittle
became the Romulus and Remus of one of the leading cities
of Iowa.

IOWA LEAVES.

"During the year 1834 settlements were made at various
points, besides those mentioned, in what are now the counties
bordering on the Mississippi river, and soon other settlements
began to extend to the western limit of the "Black Hawk Pur-
chase." The first postoffice in Iowa was established in Dubuque
in 1833. Milo H. Prentice was appointed postmaster.

GOING TO CHURCH IN IOWA IN EARLY DAYS.

"The first justice of the peace was Antoine Le Claire,
appointed in 1833 as 'a very suitable person to adjust the diffi-
culties between the white settlers and the Indians still remaining

IOWA LEAVES. 37

there.' " The first Methodist society in the territory was formed
at Dubuque on May i8, 1834, and the first class-meeting was
held June i of that year.

The first church bell brought into the state was in March,
1834.

The first mass of the Roman Catholic church in the terri-
tory was celebrated at Dubuque in the house of Patrick Quigly
in the fall of 1833.

The first school-house in the territory was erected by the
Dubuque miners in 1833.

The first Sabbath-school was organized at Dubuque early
in the summer of 1834.

The first woman who came to this part of the territory
with a view to permanent residence was Mrs. Noble F. Dean
in the fall of 1832.

The first family that lived in this part of Iowa was that of
Hosea T. Camp in 1832.

The first meeting-house was built by the Methodist Epis-
copal church at Dubuque in 1834.

The first newspaper in Iowa was the Dubuque Visitor^
issued May 11, 1836. John King — afterward Judge King —
was editor, and William C. Jones, printer. By the year 1836
the population had increased so that the people began to
agitate for a separate territorial organization. There were also
several other matters in which they were deeply interested. In
November, 1837, a convention was called at Burlington to take
action.

"On Monday, November 6, 1837, a convention of dele-
gates from the several counties in that portion of Wisconsin
territory west of the Mississippi river, then sometimes called
Western Wisconsin, convened in the town of Burlington.

38 IOWA LEAVES.

Among the principal purposes for which this convention was
called were: (i) To memorialize congress for the passage of an
act granting the right of pre-emption to actual settlers on
government lands; (2) To memorialize congress on the sub-
ject of the attempt then being made by the state of Missouri
to extend her northern boundary line so as to embrace territory
claimed as being a part of Wisconsin; (3) To memorialize
congress for the organization of a separate territorial govern-
ment in that part of the territory of Wisconsin west of the
Mississippi river."

Westward the course of empire takes its way;

The four first acts already past,
A fifth shall close the drama with the day —

Time's noblest offspring is the last.

" It is less than half a centur}- since the uncivilized aborigines
roamed the prairies wild and free, unfettered by the restraint of
common or statutory law, and uncircumscribed by township
boundaries and county lines. The transformation which has
taken place in the physiognomy of the country alone is beyond
the comprehension of the finite mind — luxuriant groves where
was the wide-stretching prairie; cultivated fields where was
the primeval forest; orchards, vineyards and gardens where
waved the tall prairie grass. So marked has been the change
in the physiognomy of the country that there has been a decided
change in the climatology. The elements themselves seem to
have taken notice of the great change, and have governed
themselves accordingly. While the annual rainfall and the
mean annual temperature remain the same in quantity, they are
now entirely different in quality, and although imperceptible and

IOWA LEAVES. 39

independent of man's will, they have nevertheless come under
the same civilizing powder which has changed the wilderness
into a fruitful land.

Whoever has made it a business to study the " Great
Northwest," as it has unfolded itself in history during the last
quarter of a century, has doubtless met with ever-recurring sur-
prises. The story of its unparalleled growth and almost
phenomenal development has so often been repeated that it has
become a commonplace platitude; but a careful study of the
country will suggest questions which have thus far not been
answered, and cannot be.

Wh}^ for instance, have some sections filled up so rapidly,
and certain cities sprung up as if by magic, while others, seem-
ingly no less favored by nature, are still in the first stages of
development ? These questions cannot in all cases be answered;
but whoever has studied the matter carefully cannot fail to have
discovered a law of growth which is as unvarying as any law of
nature. The two leading factors in the problem of municipal
growth are location and character of first settlers.

The first settlers of Iowa who remain still remember the
Mormons who first located across the Mississippi river and then
in the western part of Iowa, created such an excitement among
the scattered settlements of Iowa. Several of the most worthy
of the early settlers became converts to that faith, and went
west with the "Saints." It is not generally known, however,
that a special effort was made for the conversion of Chief
Keokuk.

While residing at Ottum-wah-nac, Keokuk received a
message from the Mormon prophet, Joseph Smith, in which the
latter invited Keokuk, as king of the Sacs and Foxes, to a
royal conference at his palace at Nauvoo on matters of the

CHIKF KliOKUK.

IOWA LEAVES. 41

highest importance to their respective peoples. The invitation
was accepted, and at the appointed time the king of the Sacs
and Foxes, accompanied by a stately escort on ponies, wended
his way to the appointed interview with the great apostle of the
latter-day saints. Keokuk, as before remarked, was a man of
good judgment and keen insight into human character. He
was not easily led by sophistry or beguiled by flattery. The
account of this interview with Smith, as given by a writer in
the "Annals of Iowa," so well illustrates these traits of his
character that we give it in full :

"Notice had been circulated through the country of this
diplomatic interview, and quite a number of spectators attended
to witness the denouement. The audience was given publicly in
the great Mormon temple, and the respective chiefs were
attended by their suites, the prophet by the dignitaries of the
Mormon Church, and the Indian potentate by the high civil and
military functionaries of his tribe, and the Gentiles were com-
fortably seated as auditors.

" The prophet opened the conference in a set speech of
some length, giving Keokuk a brief history of the children of
Israel, as detailed in the Bible, and dwelt forcibly upon the
history of the lost tribes, and that he, the prophet of God, held
a divine commission to gather them together and lead them to
a land 'flowing with milk and honey.' After the prophet closed
his harangue, Keokuk waited for the words of his pale-faced
brother to sink deep into his mind, and in making his reply
assumed the gravest attitude and most dignified demeanor. 'He
would not controvert anything his brother had said about the lost
and scattered condition of his race and people, and if his brother
was commissioned by the Great Spirit to collect them together
and lead them to a new country, it was his duty to do so.'

42 IOWA LEAVES.

" But he wished to inquire about some particulars his
brother had not named that were of the highest importance to
him and his people. The red man was not much used to milk,
and he thought they would prefer streams of water; and in the
country they now were there was a good supply of honey. The
points they wished to inquire into were whether the new
government would pay large annuities, and whether there was
plenty of whisky.

"Joe Smith saw at once that he had met his match, and
that Keokuk was not the proper material with which to increase
his army of dupes, and closed the interview in as amiable and
pleasant a manner as possible."

According to the stipulations of the treaty of 1836, in which
the Indians ceded to the United States Keokuk's reserve, the
illustrious chief removed to the west, and his headquarters for
a time were in Wapello county. The agency for the Indians
was located at a point where is now located Agency City. At
this time an effort was made to civilize the red man. Farms
were opened up and two mills were erected, one on Soap creek
and one on Sugar creek. A salaried agent was employed to
superintend these farming operations. Keokuk's farm was
located upon what is yet known as Keokuk prairie in Wapello
county.

Wapello, the contemporary of Keokuk, and the inferior
chief, after whom a neighboring county and county seat were
named, died before the Indians were removed from the state,
and thus escaped the humiliation of the scene. He, like his
superior chief, was a fast friend of the whites, and wielded an
immense influence among the individuals of his tribe. He
presided over three tribes in the vicinity of Fort Armstrong
during the time that frontier post was being erected. In 1839

IOWA LEAVES. 43

he removed his village to Muscatine swamp, and then to a place
near where is now located the town bearing his name. Man}'
of the early settlers of the country remember him well, as the
southern part of this county was a favorite resort for him and
many members of his tribe. It was in the limits of Keokuk
county that this illustrious chief died. Although he willingly
united in the treaty ceding it to the whites, it was done with the
clear conviction that the country would be shortly overrun, and
his hunting ground ruined by the advance of pale-faces. He
chose to sell rather than to be robbed, and then quietly receded
with his band. Wapello died in Keokuk county in March,
1844. As provided in the terms of the treaty, he had retired
beyond the Red Rock line early in 1843, and at the time of his
death he was visiting some of the most favorite localities in the
country, which but a year before he had relinquished.

A Mr. Romig who for some time lived near the place
where Wapello died, delivered an address before a historical
society, in which he gives the following pathetic account of the
last days and death of the illustrious chief:

"As the swallow returns to the place where last she had
built her nest — cruelly destroyed by the ruthless hands of some
rude boy — or as a mother would return to the empty crib where
once had reposed her innocent babe in the sweet embrace of
sleep, and weep for the treasure she had once possessed, so
Wapello mourned for the hunting grounds he had been forced
to leave behind, and longed to roam over the broad expanse
again. It was in the month of March; heavy winter had begun
to shed her mantle of snow; the sun peeped forth through the
fleeting clouds; the woodchuck emerged from his subterranean
retreat to greet the morning breeze, and all nature seemed to
rejoice at the prospect of returning spring. The old chief felt

IOWA LEAVES.

the exhilerating influence of reviving nature, and longed again
for the hunting excursion to the scenes of his former exploits.

INDIANS HUNTING THE BUFFALO.

But, alas! the poor old man was not long destined to mourn
over his misfortunes. While traveling over the beautiful

IOWA LEAVES. 45

prairies, or encamped in the picturesque groves that he was once
wont to call his own, disease fastened upon his vitals, and the
chief lay prostrate in his lodge. How long the burning fever
raged and racked in his brain, or who it was that applied the
cooling draught to his parched lips, tradition has failed to inform
us, but this we may fairly presume, that his trusty followers
were deeply distressed at the sufferings of their chief, whom
they loved, and administered all the comforts in their power to
alleviate his sufferings; but all w^ould not avail. Grim death
had crossed his path, touched an icy linger to his brow and
marked him for his own. Human effort to save could avail
nothing. Time passed, and with it the life of Wapello."

Keokuk, Appanoose and nearly all the leading men among
Indians were present at the funeral, which took place toward
evening of the same day upon which the body arrived at the
agency. The usual Indian ceremonies preceded the interment,
after which the remains were buried by the body of General
Street, which was in accordance with the chieftain's oft-repeated
request to be buried by the side of his honest pale-faced friend.
Poweshiek, the chief of the Fox Indians, who, as before men-
tioned, lived on Skunk river, is described as tall, heavily
built, of rough cast of features, and a disposition full of exaction
and arrogance. When he left Fort Des Moines for the last
time he went south, and encamped temporarily in the southern
part of the state. His village, which consisted of about forty
lodges, was located on Grand river, not far from the settlements
of northern Missouri. A difficulty* soon arose between the
Missourians and the Indians, and there was every reason to
suppose that the trouble would terminate in bloodshed. When
the report of the difficulty came to Fort Des Moines, three
persons — Dr. Campbell, J. B. Scott and Hamilton Thrift — who

46 IOWA LEAVES.

had been intimately acquainted with Poweshiek, desirous of
preventing bloodshed, mounted their horses and proceeded to
the Indian encampment. This was during the winter of 1845
and 1846. Everything in and about the Indian village had a
warlike appearance.

Mr. Scott sought an early interview with Poweshiek, and
spoke to him as follows:

'* My friends and myself have traveled through the snow a
long distance to help you out of this trouble. We are your
friends. If you persist in your purpose of making war on the
whites, many of your squaws and pappooses, as well as your
braves, will be butchered. The remainder will be driven out
into the cold and the snow to perish on the prairies. It would
be better now for you to break up your lodges and go in peace
to your reservation in Kansas, which the government has pro-
vided for 3'ou."

The old chief was at first unwilling to accept this advice,
and his principal reason in not doing so was that his conduct
would be construed into an exhibition of cowardice. He, how-
ever, finally concluded to accept the proffered advice, and in a
short time removed beyond the Missouri river.

One of the most affable and remarkable of the Indians with
whom the early settlers became acquainted was named Kish-ke-
kosh. It was in honor of him that Marion county was at first
named, it being afterward changed on account of the many
objections which were raised to the orthography of the word.

This Kish-ke-kosh previous to 1837 was simply a warrior
chief — was inferior to the village chief, to which distinction he
afterward attained. The village presided over by this chief is
well remembered by many of the early settlers. It was located,
some say, just over the line in what is now called White Oak

IOWA LEAVES. 47

township, Mahaska county. Major Beach thus describes it:
''The place cannot be located exactly according to our state
maps, although the writer has often visited it in Indian times,
but somewhere out north from Richville, and probably not
twelve miles distant, on the banks of Skunk river. Not far
above the forks of Skunk was a small village of not over fifteen
or twenty lodges, presided over by a man of considerable im-
portance, though not a chief, named Kish-ke-kosh. The village
was on the direct trail ; in fact, it was the converging point of
two trails from the Hardtish village, and the three villages
across the river below Ottumwa, to the only other prominent
settlement of the tribe, which was the village of Poweshiek, a
Fox chief of equal rank with Wapello, situated on the Iowa
river."

Here the squaws, after grubbing out hazel brush on the
banks of the stream, unaided b}' plow or horse, planted and
tended patches of corn. Here the men trained their ponies,
hunted, fished and loafed until Ma}^ 1843? when they moved to
the vicinity of Fort Des Moines.

PIONEER LIFE.

"All the experience of the earl}' pioneer of this state goes
far to confirm the theory that, after all, happiness is pretty
evenly balanced in this world. They had their privations and
hardships, but they had also their own peculiar joys. If they
were poor, they were free from the burden of pride and vanity;
free, also, from the anxiety and care that always attend the pro-
cession of wealth. Other people's eyes cost them nothing. If
they had few neighbors, they were on the best of terms with
those they had. Envy, jealousy and strife had not crept in. A
common interest and a common sympathy bound them together

^^^;-

J-

~'^^^^^^^p:^#^^=^- ^ -=^"- -

SQUAWS GUARDING THE CORN.

IOWA LEAVES. 49

with the strongest ties. They were a world to themselves,
and the good feeling that prevailed was all the stronger
because they were so far removed from the great world
of the east.

"Among these pioneers there was realized such a com-
munity of interest that there existed a community of feeling.
There were no castes, except an aristocracy of benevolence, and
no nobilit}', except a nobility of generosity. They were bound
together with such a strong bond of sympathy, inspired b}' the
consciousness of common hardship, that they were practically
communists. Neighbors did not even wait for an invitation or
request to help one another. Was a settler's cabin burned or
blown down, no sooner was the fact known throughout the
neighborhood than the settlers assembled to assist the unfortu-
nate one to rebuild his home. They came with as little hesita-
tion and with as much alacrity as though they were all members
of the same family, and bound together by ties of blood. One
man's interest was every other man's interest also. Now, this
general state of feeling among the pioneers was by no means
peculiar to this country, although it was strongly illustrated
here. It prevailed generally throughout the entire west during
the time of the early settlements. The very nature of things
taught the settlers the necessity of dwelling together in this
spirit. It was their only protection. They had come far away
from the well-established reign of law, and entered a new
country where the civil authority was still feeble, and totally
unable to afford protection and redress grievances. Each man's
protection was in the good will and friendship of those about
him, and the thing any man might well dread was the ill will of
the community. Such were some of the early characteristics of
the early settlers of Iowa."

IOWA LEAVES.

HOUSES AND HOME COMFORTS.

The first buildings in the state were not just Hke the log
cabins that immediately succeeded them. These latter required
some help and a good deal of labor to build. The very first
buildings constructed were a cross between "hoop cabins" and
Indian bark huts. As soon as enough men could be got together
for a "cabin raising" then log cabins were in style. Many a pioneer
can remember the happiest time of his life as that when he lived
in one of those homel}', but comfortable and profitable, old cabins.
A window with sash and glass was a rarity, and was an
evidence of wealth and aristocracy which but few could support.
They were often made with greased paper put over the window,

which admitted a little
light, but more often
there was nothing what-
ever over it, or the
cracks between the
logs, without either
chinking or daubing,
was the dependence for
light and air. The
doors were fastened
with old-fashioned
wooden latches, and for
a friend or neiof'hbor or
traveler the strins^ al-
ways hung out, for the
pioneers of the west were hospitable, and entertained visitors
to the best of their ability.

It is noticeable with what affection the pioneers speak of
their old log cabins. It may be doubted whether palaces ever

A PIONEER CABIN.

IOWA LEAVES.

sheltered happier hearts than those homely cabins. The follow-
ing is a good description of these old landmarks, but few of
which now remain:

IOWA HOME IN EARLY DAYS.

"These were of round logs notched together at the corners,
ribbed with poles and covered with boards split from a tree. A
puncheon floor was then laid down, a hole cut in the end and a

52 IOWA LEAVES.

Stick chimney run up. A clapboard door is made, a window is
opened by cutting out a hole in the side or end about two feet
square, and it is finished without glass or transparency. The
house is then 'chinked'' and 'daubed' with mud made of the
top soil.

"The cabin is now ready to s:o into. The household and
kitchen furniture is adjusted, and life on the frontier is begun in
earnest.

"The one-legged bedstead, now a piece of furniture of the
past, was made by cutting a stick the proper length, boring
holes at one end, one and a half inches in diameter, at right
angles, and the same sized holes corresponding with these in
the logs of the cabin the length and breadth desired for the bed
in which are inserted poles.

"Upon these poles clapboards are laid, or lind bark is.
interwoven consecutively from pole to pole. Upon this primi-
tive structure the bed is laid."

The convenience of a cook stove was not thought of then,
but instead the cooking was done by the faithful housewife in
pots, kettles and skillets on and about the big fireplace, while
the legal sovereigns of the household were indulging in the
luxury of a cob pipe, and discussing the probable results of a
contemplated elk hunt up and about "Spirit lake." These log
cabins were not so bad after all.

In giving the bill of fare above we should have added meat^
for of this they had plenty. Deer would be seen daily trooping
over the prairie in droves of from twelve to twenty, and some-
times as many as fifty would be seen grazing together. Elk
were also found, and wild turkeys and prairie chickens without
number. Bears were not unknown. Music of the natural order
was not wanting, and every night the pioneers were lulled to

IOWA LEAVES. ' 53

rest by the screeching of panthers and the howHng of wolves.
When the dogs ventured too far out from the cabins at night
they would be driven back by the wolves chasing them up to
the very cabin door.

Rough and rude though the surroundings may have been,
the pioneers of Iowa were none the less honest, sincere, hospita-
ble and kind in their relations. It is true, as a rule, and of uni-
versal application, that there is a greater degree of real
humanity among the pioneers of any country than there is when
the country becomes older and richer. If there is an absence
of refinement, that absence is more than compensated for in the
presence of generous hearts and useful lives. They are bold,
courageous, industrious, enterprising and energetic. Generally
speaking, they are earnest thinkers, and possessed of a diversi-
fied fund 'of useful, practical information. As a rule, they do
not arrive at a conclusion by means of a course of rational rea-
soning, but nevertheless have a queer way of getting at the
facts. They hate cowards and shams of every kind, and above
all things falsehoods and deception, and cultivate an integrity
which seldom permits them to prostitute themselves to a narrow
policy of imposture.

Such were the characteristics of the men and women who
pioneered the way to the country of the Sac and Fox Indians.
Many of them yet remain, and, although as a general thing
they are among the wealthiest and most substantial of the peo-
ple of the country, they have not forgotten their old-time hospi-
tality and free-and-easy wavs. In contrasting the present social
affairs with pioneer times, one has well said:

"Then, if a house was to be raised, every man turned out,
and often the women too, and, while the men piled up the logs
that fashioned the primitive dwelling-place, the women prepared

54 IOWA LEAVES.

the dinner. Sometimes it was cooked by big log fires near the
site where the cabin was building. In other cases it was pre-
pared at the nearest cabin, and at the proper hour was carried
to where the men were at work. If one man in the neighbor-
hood killed a beef, a pig or a deer, every other family in the
neighborhood was sure to receive a piece.

"We were all an equality. Aristocratic feelings were
unknown, and would not have been tolerated. What one had
they all had, and that was the happiest period of my life. But
to-day if you lean against a neighbor's shade tree he will charge
you for it. If you are poor and fall sick, you may lie and suffer
almost unnoticed and unattended, and probably go to the poor-
house; and just as like as not the man who would report you to
the authorities as a subject of county care would charge the
county for making the report."

Of the old settlers some are still living in the state in the
enjoyment of the fortunes they founded in early times, "having
reaped an hundred-fold." Others have passed away, and many
of them will not long survive. Several of them have gone to
the far west, and are still playing the part of pioneer. But,
wherever they may be and whatever fate may betide them, it is
but truth to sa}^ that they were excellent men as a class, and
have left a deep and enduring impression upon the state of
Iowa.

There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which, taken at the flood, leads on to fortune,
Omitted, all the voyage of their life
Is bound in shallows and in miseries.

PART SECOND

IOWA LEAVES

ENTERPRISE AND PROGRESS. FOUNDING OF

STATE INSTITUTIONS, ETC. HISTORY OF

THE GREAT FATHER OF WATERS.

BOATING IN EARLY DAYS.

CHAPTER II.

ENTERPRISE AND PROGRESS.

The spirit of enterprise may be said to be common to our
people, and is a characteristic worthy of notice. The circum-
stances of the nation have both produced and developed this
feature to American society. The original settlers of lowi
were in many instances prompted by a spirit of adventure.
They were a bold and enterprising race, and it is not strange
that their descendants should inherit a portion of the same
spirit. In general, also, the emigrants from foreign countries,
who have since made their homes on our shores, have brousfht
with them a similar characteristic.

Indeed, it is common only for the most active and fearless
spirits in any nation to be willing to break up their attachments
to kindred and countr}'' and home, and try their fortunes in a
different and distant region of the globe. Necessity, rather
than choice, has doubtless driven man}', especially of late years,
to the land of abundance without the requisite diligence or skill
to procure it, but this class is not as yet so numerous as to
effect any essential change in the enterprising turn of the
American population. The circumstances of a new country
like our own almost unavoidably give a prominence to active
and adventurous life. The case is very different here from'
what it is in the old and full-grown countries of the eastern con-
tinent. In the latter the institutions of society are nearly at a
stand, and there is little room for expansion and enlargement,

58 IOWA LEAVES.

consequently the spirit of enterprise is less known in that por-
tion of the globe — there is less occasion and less scope for it.
Here, however, everything is in a developing and forming state ;
changes are continually going on; the institutions of society are
not fully established. There is no aristocrac}'; there are no
primogenitures to fix the condition of rank and of property; the
consequence is the character, fortune and the comfort of life
eminently depend on personal effort and enterprise, to say noth-
ing in this place of their early and terrible conflicts to which
they were exposed, from a variety of other causes, the fact
alone that they have filled a wild and boundless country with
the arts and institutions of civilized life shows an indomitable
spirit of exertion and perseverance. We also justl}^ attribute
to the people a large share of personal independence and resolu-
tion. Both natural and moral causes have conspired in produc-
ing such traits of character, such as the extent and rugged
features of our soil, the purity and brightness of our skies and
the invigorating character of our climate. Among the moral
causes producing traits of personal independence and resolution
may be mentioned the objects sought in the early settlements
of our country, the hardships to which the early settlers were
subjected, their frequent cootests with natives, the predominance
of the agricultural interests, which are intimately connected
with competence and independence, the facility of finding
employment and of acquiring property and the various institu-
tions, civil and religious, by which our nation is distinguished —
these causes, especially the last named, have combined to
produce a noble elevation of the public mind. They have,
moreover, the characteristic distinction of bein^ an intellisrent
and educated people. The intellectual character of our native
citizens compares favorably with that of other nations. It has,

IOWA LEAVES. 59

indeed, the same essential traits; the strong EngHsh good sense
is predominant. The capacity for mechanical invention and
improvement is perhaps still greater. For their efforts of
genius there is a wide field in this country, and the spirit of
enterprise is highly favorable to their developments. The
rewards of intelligence and ingenuity are well calculated to
stimulate the gifted minds of our countrymen to exertion.
They who are fitted by education and knowledge for situations
where these endowments are wanted, and they are wanted for
every station, can find full profitable employment. It is not
here as in the confined, overgrown countries of Europe, and
doubtless will not soon be, considering the extent of our domain,
that almost every branch of business, intellectual or mechanical,
is in a state of surfeit. Here the field for enterprise, directed
by intelligence, is almost unlimited. Looking to our natural
presence as a state, we surely need not be ashamed of ourselves
in its soil and in its scenery — need not even hide our heads before
the titled guests from foreign countries. Our prairies, our
meadows, beautiful forests and lovely rivers and fields of yellow
grain need not apologize for asking the "lords of the British
Isles" to look upon them. Of the fruits of our "soil also, we
have no reason to be ashamed. We believe, too, that we are
less wasteful of our natural resources than before, and from
what we can learn and see it is obvious that our people are
learning and practicing the fundamental principles of good hus-
bandry, and making great advances in the sciences and arts of
manuring, draining and all the branches of horticulture and
agriculture, while our prairies and forests are being peopled
with an industrious race, and the land cheered with thriving
farms, cities and villages. The old states have been rejuvenated,
and the last few years have brought a wonderful transformation

60 IOWA LEAVES.

to all our rural districts, especially to those in the vicinity of
our great cities and villages. Perhaps our business affairs never
looked better than at present, and any intelligent American who
observes what is now doing in our villages and cities, the enter-
prise at work in producing and transforming and exchanging
the products of the soil, cannot but take to himself some share
of the self-respect that belongs to a people so laborious and so
intelligent. The sense of prosperity comes home to a great
number of our people who may seem little active in promoting
it, and hundreds and thousands of quiet citizens have capital
invested in coal mines, railroads, manufactories and all kinds of
industries that enrich us as a state. Other marks of prosperity
we have that rise into intellectual and moral grandeur, and the
schools, charitable asylums and churches that are covering our
state may well give us a new sense of worth that is even more
important than wealth. Constant industry and rich lands have
rewarded the farmer with bountiful crops and full barns; there-
fore, good farm-houses have been built all over the state. Work
is sweet to him who sees that he is to reap where he has sown,
and when the farmer of Iowa drives his strong plowshare
through the tough sod and turns up the fat black soil, he enjo3's
his labor, for his mind's eye sees those lands waving with yellow
grain which he is sure to reap.

Our readers well know, too, that cities do not make them-
selves, but are built up with hard, persistent and determined
effort, and that besides unwearied labor something is owing to
circumstances which no man can foresee. In all the glowing
places in our land there is a large investment in machinery,
tools, workshops and steam power, and these cities in our state
are not places where men buy and sell and get gain, but are
also great beehives, where are being produced a thousand

IOWA LEAVES. 61

things which civiHzed people now demand ; but let us refer to the
open secret of the whole matter, and let no man forget it. Out
of the bosom of the beautiful earth comes all the wealth, and he
who digs it makes money, not he who sits in his banking house
and with greased measure measures gold and wheat; he may
get the money, but the other makes it and ought to have it.*
Behind our cities and villages there spread away these broad
acres of fertile lands, upon which grow the waving fields of
yellow wheat and of corn, of which millions of bushels are
sent forth to feed the people of the old world as well as the new,
and the beef and pork and coal industries, without which
bankers and merchants would perish and leave no sign. Honor,
glory and praise and profit be to the stalwart souls and bodies
in Iowa who produce.

The people who composed the first colonies of Iowa were
great lovers of progress, and watched the rapid innovations of
the coming settlers with great satisfaction. The value of land
was thus enhanced a hundred-fold, A great many people living
in the east at that time had an impression that this part of the
country was an entire wilderness hardly redeemable. How few
indeed can have any conception of the rapidity with which it
has been settled.^ Civilization pursues one as a remorseful con-
science does a fugitive criminal. If any '' New Yorker" or any
denizen of the now cramped-up eastern states is inclined to
doubt, let him travel our broad expanse, and he will find that
the wild beast does not make his lair in every timber tract, nor
the Indian claim his sovereignty undisputed. Their occu-
pation is gone. The wild deer and bear have also disappeared,
and work is irksome to the noble savage. Those living here
now see the red race almost extinct; they possessed our country
at one time, but left no marks upon its histor}', and are

62 IOWA LEAVES.

remembered as a curiosity of the past rather than as a part of
the development of manhood.

Iowa is also one of the most deHghtful countries in the
world, possessing a genial climate, a fertile soil, abounding in
all those natural resources whose development and use con-
stitute the true wealth of a state. Her beautiful forests, lovely
rivers and extended prairies offer at the same time a rich and
varied feast to the romantic traveler. Her annals, although
the}' might now be considered within the memor}'^ and experi-
ence of a single life, are swelled with many a page wherein the
statesman and philosopher may find food for thought and theme
for speculation; they furnish us the records of a people who
have won a fair heritage by their courage, have cultivated it
with industry and governed it with wisdom ; a people who
have fought their own battles, plowed their own soil and made
their own laws. We may also find names — familiar as house-
hold words — of men, types of their race, sustained by native
force alone, who have led the way in war and in peace, and
attained the highest distinction in the camp and in the cabinet,
whose fame, too large for the narrow limits of state, now
belongs to our national history. In the first settling of Iowa
we might have discerned the Indian and the red deer, but their
feet have departed; the sound of the warwhoop and the ring of
the rifle have given place to the clip of the ax and the shriek
of the steam whistle. The laughing water turns the busy mill
and the cry of the wild drake is hushed by the hum of civ-
ilization.

The mud-chinked cabin of the pioneer settler, initiated
from the handiwork of a Daniel Boone, has given place to
elegant villas designed by a Downing or a Vaux. Strangely
contrasting with the simple garb and manner of the olden time,

IOWA LEAVES.

we meet everywhere with the luxury and pohsh of modern
refinement. There are great industries scattered here and there
all over our great state, and long, long ago old folks began to
shake their heads at the new-fangled institutions springing up
every day in our land. Let us go back to the early school days
of Iowa and the old log school-house, where our forefathers

LOG SCHOOL-HOUSE.

acquired the rudiments of learning and experience — the incipient
sorrows of knowledge. These log houses were built either on
open prairies or under the shadows of native timber, rude log
pens, floored with puncheons, with a single opening which
served as a door, but entirely without windows or chimneys.
In the center of the room was a hearth formed of stones and
earth. When in winter a huge log fire blazed and fumed, the

6i IOWA LEAVES.

smoke, when not blown into the eyes of the scholars, rose and
gathered in a cloud under the high-pitched roof, and escaped
through the wide crevices at the eaves. Ranged in a hollow
square around the fire w^ere the scholars, who sat on rough-
hewn benches conning their well-thumbed primers or blue-
backed spelling-books with vociferous diligence. The school
was divided into three classes, big boys, little boys and girls,
and presided over by an Irish schoolmaster, who wore a pair
of goggles, and maintained his state on a split-bottomed throne
with scepter of hickory — tough timber and far-searching. In
these wigwams of science, deep hidden in primeval forests or
on smooth, open prairies, the children of the first settlers of Iowa
acquired an education. Those days have long since gone by,
and we look to-day upon hundreds of magnificent monuments
of learning scattered all over our great state, equipped with all
the modern improvements, where the children of Iowa to-day
are instructed in all the different grades of learning, arts,
science and literature.

The state of Iowa was originally known as the "Black
Hawk Purchase," and many people in the far eastern country,
even beyond the Alleghany mountains in Virginia, caught the
adventurous spirit or "Black Hawk" fever, and migrated to
these sparsely-settled regions. Their ancestors were pioneers
of that hardy, stony, clear-minded race who settled the Shenan-
doah valleys, Virginia, and the Cumberland and Monongahela
valleys of Pennsylvania, who built up their churches, improved
their homes and with a missionar}' enterprise ventured farther
on. These early pioneers of Iowa were types of the frontier
settlers who sought the comforts of home life, the society of
friends and the culture of the mind rather than wealth, and, though
living in Iowa when speculations might have made them rich,

IOWA LEAVES.

with opportunities to get large fortunes, chose simphcity of
Hfe, and the greater portion of them passed away without a
dollar in their possession. These noble pioneers came to the
state when a mere colony, lived in it while a territory and dur-
ing all its great and wonderful growth are among those of the
past who live only in the tradition of their friends.

low^a scarcely well preserves
the memory of her frontiersmen
and pioneers, or is it because
each living generation rather
loves the present than the past.'^

The versatile Chief Justice
Joseph Williams, in his day a
man of wonderful versatility;
Judge Jonathan Hall, strong,
clear and, honest in his convic-
tions and in his life, with his
brother Augustus, who had a
brilliant imagination and logical
mind — fine powers as an orator;
Gillespie, with great natural sense
and mother wit; Corse, Carpenter, Negus and the venerable
Judge Jeffries, among the early and enterprising pioneers, are
no more. The versatile genius, Gen. Morgan, or ''JLittleRed,"
who so long ranked at the head of the editorial profession in
the state, with his friend. Gov. Lucas, who came with the
author's father. Col. Robt. Robinson, from the valley of the
Scioto to Iowa, are living links in the history of the first
settling of this great state.

Gen. A. C. Dodge, the great orator and statesman, and
minister to Spain during the early administration of our country^

COL. ROBT. ROBINSON.

IOWA LEAVES.

who held man}^ offices of trust in the general and state govern,
ments — kind, hospitable, charitable, courteous and liberal in
ever3'thing — is also numbered among the brave and noble pio-
neers of Iowa who sleep to-day in our silent cities of the dead.
Whether they be considered in regard to mind or heart,
no country ever had a braver, happier or more hospitable or
more enlightened people than were the first settlers of Iowa,

Who, like the snowflake on the river,
A moment here, then gone forever;
Or like the borealis race
That flits ere you can point the place;
Or like the rainbow's beauteous form,
Vanishing amidst the storm.

It is befitting our theme in speaking of the early days of
our state that a brief allusion be made to the great Father of

Waters, which marks her
eastern boundary and sepa-
rates her from the state of Illi-
nois, as the first white settle-
ments made in the state were
along its banks. We will not
dwell at great length upon the
facts of its discovery, which
are generall}' understood, or
which may be found in our
standard histories, which tell
us that the gallant and roman-
tic De Soto had the honor of
discovering the great river in
the year 1538, almost 400
years ago. The ];iext discover}' was made from an entirely
different quarter, and was prompted by different motives.

GEN. A. C. DODGE.

IOWA LEAVES.

We allude to its discovery and exploration by Marquette
and Joliet, who were the first to explore the river. Upon
the results of this exploration the destin}' of states and
nations has been influenced if not controlled. It is worthy of
special notice that the present generation were not the first pio-
neers of this beautiful region. On the contrary, the oldest
inhabitants simply came to live in a countr}' first unveiled to
the gaze of the world by the dauntless heroism and disinterested
religious zeal of James Marquette. He and his companion

MARQUETTE AND JOLIET
ENTERING THE MISSISSIPPI

Joliet were undeniably the first white men who ever trod the
soil of Iowa. Space forbids, interesting as the excursion would
be, to follow step by step the progress of their voyage along
the shores of Iowa. The mere outlines and meager details
which we give are taken wholly from "Marquette's Original
Narration," a most interesting book.

They first entered the Mississippi at the place where
MacGregor, la., now stands. It seems at that time that

68 IOWA LEAVES.

numerous Indian villages were scattered along the banks of the
river at this place, whose inhabitants were friendly with Mar-
quette, and did their best to dissuade the undertaking of explor-
ing the river. "They told me," says Marquette, "that we
would meet nations that never spare strangers, but tomahawked
them without provocation ; that they were at war with each
other, which would increase our danger; that the great river
itself was full of perils, of frightful monsters, which swallowed
up men and canoes; that it contained a demon that ingulfed all
who dare approach, and, lastly, that the excessive heat would
infallibly cause cmr death." Disheartened? no, not he. "I
thanked them for their kind advice, but assured them I could
not follow it." So the voyagers entered the great Mississippi
near the city of MacGregor on June 7, 1763. They were not
molested in the least, and traveled along in their birch canoes
for nearly 2,000 miles, and saw no human being until June 25.
They saw footprints of men by the water''s side, and a path
leading up through a beautiful prairie. They concluded to stop.
This path was rightly conjectured to lead to an Indian village.
Singly and alone Marquette and Joliet resolved to pursue the
path, and to assume the peril of meeting a barbarous and
unknown people, who were in those days the only inhabitants
of these regions now bearing the name of Iowa. Following
the path some five or six miles they discovered three Indian
villages, somewhat separated, on the banks of a beautiful river,
the name of which ]Marquette does not give, but on his map he
indicates the course of the river, and gives the names of two of
these villages, viz.; Pe-wa-re and Moin-gue-na. The site of
these villages cannot with certainty be ascertained, but the
name favors the conjecture that the river was the river Des
Moines in southeastern Iowa, and probably was. Marquette

IOWA LEAVES.

and Joliet advanced undiscovered so far that they even heard
the Indians talking. In order to show them that they intended

no surprise or harm, they halted
and by a loud cry announced their
presence. Strange meeting that
first one on Iowa soil between the
amazed Indians and their unknown
visitors ; wild and strange the cere-
monies which characterized it and
illuminated it with a wild and
strange splendor.

They are received in warm
welcome and in peace ; their course
becomes a splendid ovation. The
savages depute four of their oldest
men to meet and receive them, and
two of the deputies bear aloft the
gaily-adorned calumet of peace. All
four advance silently but slowly
with, stately, barbarous dignity.
Indian-like, as an earnestness of
peace, they present their visitors
with the mysterious pipe. They
invite them to their city and tender,
with sincerity and warmth, its rude
hospitality. Arriving at the village,
all the people turned out to gaze at
them, when Marquette briefly spoke
of the object of his mission (for they
used a dialect of the Algonquin
INDIAN PEACE PIPES. lauguagc with which hc was famil-

70 IOWA LEAVES.

iar) — "Of the one God of the great French captain who had
subdued the Iroquois, their ancient enemies." Speech-making
on such occasions and in those da3^s would not seem to be a
civilized ceremony. The sachem of the tribe, rising to reply,
spoke as follows, a speech which, though never noticed as
such, is one of the finest specimens of Indian eloquence: "I
thank the black gown (alluding to Marquette) and the French-
man (addressing Joliet) for taking so much pains to come and
see us. Never has the earth been so beautiful nor the sun so
brio'ht as now. Never has the river been so calm nor so free
from rocks, which your canoes have removed as they passed.
Never has our tobacco had so fine a flavor, nor our corn appeared
so beautiful as we behold it to-day. Ask the Great Spirit, whom
thou knowest, to give us life and health, and come thou and
dwell among us." What a magnificent speech for the first one
ever made on Iowa's rich soil over 200 years ago. Following
this a great feast was spread before the strangers, which in his
glowing style, disdaining particulars, Ban Croft describes as a
"magnificent festival, prepared of hominy and fish, with the
choicest viands from the prairies of Iowa." Let us consult the
faithful and unexaggerated account of Marquette, and see the
style and "bill of fare" of this "magnificent festival," the first
meal ever sat down to by white men upon the western side of
the Mississippi river in Iowa. " This feast," says Marquette,
"consisted of four courses, which we had to take with all their
ways. The first course was a great wooden dish of sagamity,
that is to say, of Indian meal, boiled in water and seasoned with
grease. The master of ceremonies, with a wooden spoonful of
sagamity, presented it several times to my mouth as we would
to a little child; he did the same to Joliet. For the second
course he brought in another dish containing three fish, removed

IOWA LEAVES.

the bones, and having blown on it to cool, put it into my mouth
as we should feed a bird. For a third course they produced a
large dog (as an Indian can give no higher mark of his friend-
ship than to sacrifice his faithful companion) which they had just
killed, but learning that we did not eat dog it w^as finally
withdrawn. The fourth course was a piece of wild buffalo, the
fatted portion of which was put into our mouths." This is the
style and "bill of fare" of the first meal ever served to the white
race within what is now the borders of one of the greatest states
of the Union.

INDIAN CANOE.

After remaining in these regions for several days, 600
Indians accompanied Marquette and Joliet to their boats, and
they embarked, following the current, and soon passed the
boundaries of what is now the great state of Iowa.

"Do the departed look down upon us.^ We love to
imagine that as these voyagers passed along the shores of the
great river in the majestic solitude of nature, they listened, and,

72 IOWA LEAVES.

listening, heard the busy tramp of the coming milhons, and had
visions of the commonwealths that have so marvelously arisen
along the banks of the great river that they were the first to
explore. They founded no cities, they left no permanent
physical monuments behind them, yet a generous posterity will
not willingly let their names perish. So long as the river flows
it will water their memories, and preserve them fresh and
green."

This great river and its countless tributaries in Iowa are
ours, its babbling fountains, springs and waterfalls, brooks and
streams are indisputably ours. It is fortunate for Iowa that
this magnificent river flows along its borders and the great
state itself has passed into our hands.

Only two generations or more have passed away, and see
the results. Great and flourishing cities and villages line its
banks from its source to its mouth. Civil and religious liberty,
science, literature, religion, art, education and educational
institutions — all that can adorn or bless a state or a nation — have
here found a home. AVhat is there anywhere in all the
records of our race so remarkable as to be compared with the
marvelous growth and development of the Mississippi valley, of
which Iowa has a large share. One of the peculiar features
connected with this great river in the early settlement of our
state was the "flat boat" which plied the river, built of gun-
wales and planks, some loo feet long and thirty broad, and
square at the ends, familiarly known as "broad horn." Some
were roofed over, others were left open, and carried the loads
of giants. On ever}' tributary these arks were constructed
through the summer and fall, ready to do their work when the
hour should come, and then myriads of corn-fields, large and
small, poured their crops together in these "broad horns," and

IOWA LEAVES. 73

were swept downward by stream to eastern and southern
markets. Those are a thing of the past, and have given place
to rapid transportation on the iron rails. Numerous cities have
grown up along the banks of this great river in Iowa, which
will interest the traveler and speculator — Dubuque, Davenport.
Muscatine, Clinton, Burlington and Keokuk. Some of them
are large cities, furnished with paved streets, electric and cable
cars, warehouses piled with merchandise, manufactories, and
one might fancy portions of New York and Chicago had been
transplanted as they stood. All these have done much and
promise to do more, and active, determined men do not fear to
build mills and hotels, railroads and rapid transit car lines and
factories, being sure of good returns. The interior cities of our
state — Cedar Rapids, Des Moines, Ottumwa, Waterloo, Iowa
City, Marshalltown, Oskaloosa, Iowa Falls, Vinton, Anamosa,
West Liberty, Mt. Pleasant, Fairfield, Pella, Charles Cit}^, Sig-
ourney, Knoxville, Atlantic, Red Oak, Chariton, Osceola, Cres-
ton. Corning, Centerville, Shenandoah, Clarinda and hundreds of
others — are filled chuck full of an enterprising class of citizens,
who work hard for the upbuilding of their cities and the
country surrounding them. Council Bluffs and Sioux City, on
the banks of the great Missouri in the extreme western part of
the state, are noted for their enterprise and push. Both are
rapidly improving, and are a surprise to the traveler passing
through the western portion of our state.

The report of the treasurer of the state of Iowa shows that
her financial condition is better now than it has ever been. The
total assessed value of taxable property at present is $522,-

567>477-

The reports of the various state institutions give a fair

account of the work done by them. All are in excellent condi-

IOWA LEAVES.

tion, and are performing with a large measure of efficienc}' the
parts assigned them, respectivel}^ whether educational, eleemosy-
nary or reformatory. First is the Hospital for the Insane at
INIt. Pleasant, which is well managed; the discipline among
the employes is excellent, and complaints on the part of patients
are exceedingly rare. The second Hospital for the Insane is
located at Independence. The farm connected with this hos-
pital contains c^So acres of land, which not only furnishes health}'

THE INSTITUTION FOR FEEBLE-MINDED CHILDREN.

employment for a large number of male
patients, but also promises to reduce to
a considerable extent the cost of supporting the institution.
The trustees in their last report have asked for an appro-
priation of $10,000 for an electric light plant. The elec-
tric light is giving excellent satisfaction in the state institutions
where it is in use. The new Hospital for the Insane at Clarinda,
in Page county, which was completed in 1888, is one of the
best equipped hospitals in the state. The report of the visiting
committee bears witness to the good management of this hos-
pital. They speak very highly of the quantity and quality of

IOWA LEAVES. 75

food served and clothing provided for the patients, of the care
bestowed upon the sick and intirm and of the excellent sanitary
condition of all these institutions.

The institution for the feeble-minded children at Glenwood,
in Mills county, is well worthy of notice. It ist he object of the
state to afford the largest opportunity possible for the improve-
ment of these feeble-minded children, and unremitting attention
is required on the part of those who have charge of them. The
brightening and developing mind that responds ordinarily to the
efforts of the teacher of the young, and gladdens his heart, is here
sadly wanting, and there is little to cheer him beyond the conscious-
ness of faithful endeavor. The results reached in the educational
and industrial departments of this institution are quite satisfactory,
and the reports of the trustees and superintendents are worthy
of careful consideration. The Soldiers' Orphan Home at Daven-
port is another institution wherein Iowa has been diligent in
contributing to the mental, moral and physical welfare of its
mmates with wholesome and abundant food, tender care and
excellent educational facilities. The benevolent hand of the
greatest state in the Union is rearing its poor unfortunate
children to healthy, useful and intelligent manhood and woman,
hood. It is certainly a wise policy that leads to a life of happi-
ness and virtue these friendless children, who otherwise might
be doomed to a career of wretchedness and crime, were they
left to the mercy of a cold and uncharitable world. .

The Soldiers' Home is another interesting institution in our
state. The readiness with which the feeble, crippled and home-
less soldiers avail themselves of the comforts and facilities of
this home demonstrates that the twenty-first General Assembl^^
acted wisely in estabhshing this institution. Good fare, clean
beds, warm rooms, baths and in time of sickness care and atten-

7G IOWA LEAVES.

tion constitute both a welcome and deserved provision for the
Union veterans. All reports show that this home is being well
managed. The surroundings of this institution have been beauti-
fied by the planting of shade trees, by the clearing of unsightly
objects from the grounds and by other improvements, which
give the place the appearance of a well-kept home.

The discipline and general management of the State-Prison
at Ft. Madison has been excellent in every respect, and
the appropriations made by the late general assembly have been
expended with care and economy. The number in confinement
June 30, 1889, was ninet3'-four less than at the beginning of the
period, and was smaller than at any corresponding time in any
other year since 1882. Nor was this due to any excessive use
of the pardoning power. The number of commitments to the
two penitentiaries in the state for the period was 536. This is
the smallest number of commitments in any biennial period since
1873. The reduction in the number of convicts in the prison
made the expense of supporting and guarding them $13,371.51
less than during the previous term.

If the number of prisoners continues to decrease in the same
ratio in which it has decreased during the last four 3'ears, Iowa
will soon have a prison for sale or rent.

Another State-Prison is situated at Animosa in the north-
east part of the state, one ward being devoted entirel}^ to the
use of female criminals, a great improvement being thus effected
in the facilities of caring for these inmates of the prison. The
criminal insane show marked physical and mental improvement,
due to their large, commodious and well-ventilated quarters
and much outdoor exercise. Better hospital and bath-room
facilities have also been provided, and the general health of the
prison has been good.

IOWA LEAVES. 77

The Prisoners' Aid Association continues its work for the
reformation of the criminal. The state is interested not only
in the punishment of the crime, but also in the career of the
convict after he has satisfied the law. This association aims to
make that career a credit to the man and a benefit to society.

The State Industrial School, located at Eldora, is one of
our most interesting institutions. The general health of this
school has been unusually good, and the results of its work
are spoken of in the highest terms by the trustees. Many of
the former inmates of this institution are now useful and
respected members of society, and their lives bear witness to
the good training which the school affords. This moral
hospital renders excellent service to the state.

The report of the superintendent of public instruction, in
presenting the condition and needs of the public schools, is
unusually interesting. The school property, number of teachers
and average school attendance show a considerble increase. The
number of school children between the ages of five and twenty-
one is 649,606. The number enrolled in the public schools is
489,227 and the average daily attendance 304,856. The number
of teachers reported is 25,793; the number of schools, 15,611; the
number of school-houses, 12,897, representing a value of $12,-
580,345. The permanent school fund amounts to $4,319,442,
and continues to increase. The average monthly wages of male
teachers is $37.52 and of female teachers $30.87.

The superintendent states that the law requiring instruction
in the public schools concerning the effects of stimulants and
narcotics upon the human system has been observed in nearly
every school in the state. This instruction, contemplated to
fortify the child against the formation of bad habits, promises
great good to the cause of temperance.

78 70Tr.4 LEAVES.

Iowa occupies the enviable position of having the best
schools and the least number of illiterates, in proportion to
population, of all the states in the Union, which nothing but the
o-reatest vio:ilance has oriven her. Our schools will alwavs be
what we make them; they reflect the will and spirit of the
people, and rise or fall to their standard.

The State University at Iowa City is another leading insti-
tution, which is in an unusualh' flourishing condition. The financial
affairs of the institution and the strengthening of the faculty
have had careful attention on the part of the board of regents.
The changes made in the several faculties have brought about
great harmony among teachers and students, and develop an
increasing interest on the part of the latter.

The educational interests of Iowa are dear to our people ;
therefore, we have an institution worthy of our commonwealth.
We have an institution where the best facilities for securing a
liberal education are provided. The agricultural college at Ames
is such an institution. The number in the last graduating class
was forty-five, besides three who took a second degree. This
is the largest class that has ever left the institution. The
experiments in horticulture and forestry at this institution con-
tinue with satisfactory results. It is certainl}' profitable to our
people to learn what fruits are, and what are not, adapted to our
climate and soil. It has been the aim of the management to
conform to the requirements of the congressional act granting
the college lands, and to impart instruction in studies pertaining
to agriculture and the mechanical arts as well as in military
tactics.

The State Normal School at Cedar Falls, with 541 pupils in
attendance, is another very prominent institution in our state.
A gratifying feature of the growth of this school is found in the

IOWA LEAVES. 79

increased number of students in the higher grades. Teachers
acquire the art of teaching and thorough training, and those
who enjoy the benefits of normal instruction for even a short
space of time are better fitted for their work by reason of that
discipHne. The unification of the work of the normal school
with that of the high school, which was suggested in the reports
of 1887, has been tried sufficiently to warrant the opinion that
it increases the usefulness of this institution, and is also of
advantage to the high schools, adjusting their work to the pre-
scribed course. While recognizing the great usefulness of this
institution, we feel that it is only just to make here a due
acknowledgment of the excellent work which is being done by
the several private normal schools m the state. Most of these
enjoy a high degree of prosperit}', and their influence is felt in
almost every school district in Iowa.

The institution for the deaf and dumb, situated at Council
Bluffs, is in a prosperous condition, and the health of the
inmates unusually good. This institution has been very
prudently managed, and may well be proud of having sent a
proportionately larger number to the national college for the
deaf and dumb than an}' other school.

Great importance is justly attached to manual and
industrial training in the education of the young. This institu-
tion is lighted by electricity and equipped with all modern
improvements.

The coUesre for the blind at Vinton is one of the most
wonderful and interesting institutions in the state. The total
enrollment of pupils durmg the term was 206, while the largest
enrollment at any other time was 177. All but one are natives
of the United States, and forty were born in Iowa. The build-
ing and grounds are in excellent condition. An appropriation

80 IOWA LEAVES.

has been made by which the water-works system of the city of
Vinton will be extended to the college.

Our national guard consists of six regiments of eiglit com-
panies each, with fifty men to each company. They are all
well uniformed, equipped with improved firearms and all the
necessary accouterments, and supplied with all necessaries.
The guard is officered largely by experienced soldiers of the
civil war, and the rank and file is composed of the best young
men in the state, who have an earnest desire to learn military
tactics and art. It is in a high state of discipline, and is pre-
pared to respond promptly whenever it may be called into
active service. The encampments during the past two years
have been unusually successful. For those held last year the
secretary of war detailed two companies from the regular
army to encamp with each regiment, which proved of great
service to both our officers and men.

The State Horticulture Society is engaged in gathering
and disseminating information as to the fruits best fitted for
cultivation in the state, and renders valuable service to our peo-
ple. Its work fully justifies the small expenditure increased by
the state on its account.

The growing interest in the improvement of the breeds of
domestic animals is evidenced in the proceedings of the Improved
Stock Breeders' Association. The apparent benefit of feeding
grain to live stock instead of shipping it out of the state has
directed attention to the profitableness of improved breeds, and
almost incredible advancement has been made during the past
twenty years in the improving of the quality of our domestic
animals. This association has contributed largely to this pro-
gress. The number and value of live stock in our state in 1889
were as follows: Horses, 1,053,193, valued at $78,975,376, mules.

IOWA LEAVES. 81

47,018, valued at $4,003,124; milch cows, 1,293,095, valued at
$22,861,880; other cattle, 2,095,253, valued at $42,856,531;
hogs, 6,750,000, valued at $38,082,500; sheep, 540,700, valued
at $1,332,559; aggregate value, $189,110,970.

The work of the dairy commissioners was so well per-
formed during the period contemplated by the original act for
its existence that it has been determined to make the office a-
permanent one. While the law does not prohibit the manufact-
ure and sale of imitation butter or cheese, its practical opera-
tion has virtually brought about such prohibition. The com-
missioners' reports show that there has never been a manufac-
tory of oleomargarine in the state, and there never has been
issued any federal license for the sale of that article in the forty-
nine counties constituting the Dubuque internal revenue district.
The co-operation of the national and state authorities is com-
plete, and through their combined efforts the sale of simulated
dairy products has been quite effectually stopped. In the year

1888 618 creameries produced 41,576,548 pounds of butter. In

1889 there were 683 creameries, with products 15 per cent,
larger than those of the previous year. In 1888 there were 104
factories making 4,406,098 pounds of cheese; in 1889 there were
164 factories. The estimated value of all butter and cheese
made at the factories last year is $16,779,235.89.

The Iowa weather service has completed its twelfth year
under state auspices. The data gathered by the director during
many 3'ears are of permanent value, and are calculated to dispel
the erroneous notion concerning violent atmospheric disturb-
ances in Iowa that are widely entertained beyond our border.
By sensational newspaper writers in and outside of Iowa the
people of this country have come to believe that this state is
overrun in winter, and especially in summer, with tornadoes.

82 IOWA LEAVES.

The official and semi-official publication of the signal service
republished by Iowa papers has confirmed our people in this
belief, so that many take fright at the first dark and threatening
cloud appearing above the western horizon. There can be no
question that these stories have frightened many eastern people
out of the purpose of settling in Iowa.

The tornado at Reading, Pa. (January 9, 1889), was made
the topic of extended notice in the same style, one of the most
prominent papers of ou-r state going so far as to frighten our
people by editorially assuring them that such tornadoes might
visit Iowa in midwinter, and that it would be wise in winter to
constantly look out for threatening clouds of this kind ; this
means in plain English that our Iowa people should even in mid-
winter be in constant fear of danger to life and property by
the dread tornado. We, therefore, deem it our duty in this
work to protest against this unwarranted defamation of the cli-
mate of Iowa and most cruel and unfounded play on the fears
of our people, and we are astonished to find that a few of the
papers in the state have indulged in cheap ridicule instead of
disabusing the minds of our people in regard to the fancied tor-
nado dangers of Iowa that are keeping away desirable immi-
grants, and thus contribute to the depression of property in our
state. Straight-blowing gales occur in almost all parts of the
world. The inhabitants of any country will have to learn to
resist the power of these storms. Here in the northwest we
have such gales or Iowa squalls. There is no need to insure
against such storms, but rather to use the capitalized insurance
premium to secure substantial structures. When building our
architects should learn above all to avoid furnishing every gale a
special leverage and advantages in broad cornices and other
projecting fancy ornaments. We ought to stop putting up band-

IOWA LEAVES. 83

box buildings on our prairies, and adapt our architecture to the
cHmate of the state we Hve in. But above all we ouorht no
longer to till our newspapers with glaring headlines of tornadoes
and cyclones whenever a moderately fierce straight gale sweeps
across our prairies and has turned over some of the flimsy struct-
ures that have been put up more for looks and size than for
strength and comfort. For this sort of mishap the climate of
Iowa is not to blame; it is the work of the people themselves.

Iowa is fast becoming a great manufacturing center and
every encouragement is being given to investors. By building
up factories in our midst we do away with the long haul and
bring the producer and consumer nearer together. We have
in the past imported too many of the products of eastern mills
and workshops, and export far too many of the products of our
farms. Many of these are worked up in other states to be
returned and retailed within our borders. Our people thus lose
the price of freight both ways, the earnings of the laborer and
the profits of the manufacturer and dealer.

Our courts show a marked improvement in dealing with
the temperance question in the last few years, nearly all of the
judges being now disposed to enforce the law whether they are
in sympathy with it or not. In those counties where the law is
not enforced the fault lies almost invariably with the executive
officers. The constitution provides that the governor shall take
care that the laws are faithfully executed, and the statutes
authorize him to suspend any state officer who may neglect
this duty. But a county officer may willfully neglect his duty,
and the governor has no power to call him to account. If pro-
vision were made for the suspending for gross negligence of such
officers as are charged with the enforcement of the law, and
ample funds were placed at the command of the governor

84 IOWA LEAVES.

to aid prosecution, the saloon would soon be a thing of the past
in Iowa.

Divine Providence has certainly been most propitious to the
people of our state not only during the past few years, but ever
since Iowa became a state. We have been blessed with beauti-
ful crops, good health and general prosperity. We have been
free from all calamity and social disorders, and we have much
and undisputed evidence of the intellectual and moral advance-
ment of our people. Iowa capital, which for several years
sought speculative investments beyond our borders, realizes the
magnitude and stability of our resources, and is fast returning ta
aid in the building up of our industries and the enhancement of
our commerce. Schools and colleges are multiplying through-
out the state, and both church and society stand upon a higher
plane than ever before.

We shall endeavor to give our readers descriptions of por-
tions of our great state and the many natural advantages
possessed by them. First we will enter the blue grass regions
of southwestern Iowa and dwell largely on the many beauties
they contain.

PART THREE

SOUTHWESTERN IOWA

BEAUTIES OF THE BLUE GRASS REGIONS AND BLUE

GRASS PALACE AT CRESTON, UNION

COUNTY, IOWA.

CHAPTER III.

BEAUTIES OF THE BLUE GRASS REGIONS AND PALACE.

The great resources of the Hawk-eye state are known far
and wide, yet to the world tliere is much to tell of the enter-
prise of the people who have placed Iowa in the front rank of
all the states in the Union. In order to tell the story of the
enterprise of these people in this connection it is necessary to
go back to the origination of the Blue Grass League of south-
western Iowa, which has done much, and promises to do more,
toward the upraising of one of the greatest states in the Union.

The Blue Grass League was organized some three years
ago at Creston, Union county, by a large number of
enthusiastic and intelligent citizens of that portion of the
country, for the purpose of uniting more firmly the interests of
that beautiful section. The untiring efforts put forth by the
efficient officers and members of this organization have been
crowned with success, and the benefits derived therefrom for
southwestern Iowa have been marvelous. The Blue Grass
League comprises eighteen of our best counties, which are as
follows: Appanoose, Wayne, Decatur, Ringold, Taylor, Page,
Fremont, Mills, Montgomer}', Adams, Union, Clarke, Lucas,
Warren, Madison, Adair, Cass and Pottawattamie.

These regions possess a genial climate, good pure water
and a large supply of native timber and extensive veins of coal,
while the prairies are dotted with well-cultivated farms,
which greet the eye of the traveler in every direction, and on

IOWA LEAVES.

all sides may be seen the evidence of thrift, prosperity and com-
fort found only in the best farming regions of the state. The
winters here are mild, considering the latitude, and the sum-
mers are not especially warm. There is an absence of many
diseases that often render the lower lands peculiarly unhealthy.

K^s^^MT Ii|clusi5li:

Wheat, oats, corn, rye, barley, millet and flax yield rich
and luxuriant returns to the husbandman and all kinds of fruits
and garden vegetables incidental to the latitude can be grown
in profusion. The peculiar climate and soil of these regions are
admirably adapted to the growth of tame grasses, and hay from

JOWA LEAVES. 89

these regions, wherever known, displaces others in the markets
of the south and east. Live stock, especially horses and cattle,
live and thrive well during ordinary seasons the 3-ear round on
pasturage and hay feeding and from November to April on the
famed winter blue grass pasture of this section. No country
under the sun has better drainage or veins of water, the average
depth of wells being from twenty-five to thirty-five feet deep.
Nearly every farm is supplied with good pure water by springs,
rivers or running brooks, and no country within the limits of
our continent stands drought so well, and owing to the rolling
character of the surface of the country crops are little damaged
by wet seasons. Rarely will the traveler find a more mag-
nificent country, more suggestive of real wealth and prosperity,
than can be seen on the broad rich prairies of the blue grass
regions of southwestern Iowa. In rapid succession we pass the
elegant homes of the industrious farmer, with his fields of 3ellow
grain and waving corn and large herds of stock grazing on luxuri-
ant blue grass pasture. There beautiful homes have arisen from
the rude cabins of the frontier farmer as attractive as any
in our eastern states, surrounded by fine bearing orchards,
gardens and all the luxuries known to farm life. Cosy school-
houses are seen in every district and neat white churches
with their tapering spires point to the abode of Him who hath
so richly blessed his children. There is certainly beauty on
every hand. The wild flowers on the prairies, of a thousand
different varieties and colors, greet the eye at every step, and
even the tiniest foot could scarcely touch the ground without
crushing the life from some of these emblems of purity.
These regions are certainly favored spots in Iowa, and those
seeking homes can find here all that is desirable in climate,
pleasant, intelligent and prosperous people, good markets,

90 IOWA LEAVES.

excellent schools, fine churches, low taxes, fertile soil, pure water
and a country that produces good average crops every year.
California may and does possess grand and magnificent mount-
ain scenery, unsurpassed, I presume, by an}' in the world,
together with broad and fertile plains; Idaho, Montana, Nevada
and Colorado are grand and beautiful in their rugged strength,
but in none of these can be found scenes of quiet, graceful
beauty which, by any stretch of imagination, can be ranked as
equal to those found anywhere in the blue grass regions.
Nowhere else have we seen vegetation clothed in such brilliant
colors, and when the surfaces of other lands are bare, parched and
brown, the transition from thence to these green fields and
fertile plains unfolds to us almost a new phase of existence.
These regions are less susceptible to the effects of drought than
any of the adjoining countries, neither have extremes of wet
weather as yet caused any severe loss to crops. The great
abundance of grain, stock, dairy products, coal, stone and native
timber would not be especially valuable to this country were it
not for the excellent shipping facilities afforded. The Chicago,
Burlington & Quincy railroad, or Blue Grass route, traverses
this section entirely from east to west by main line and from
north to south by numerous branches. No railroad on the
continent passes through so rich and fertile country as does this
through the blue grass regions of southwest Iowa. This
is one of the great natural advantages possessed by this famous
section of country. The traveler who carefully surveys these
regions as he passes through them will find that they also con-
tain many beautiful cities and villages, whose rapid growth is
largely due to the enterprise of the class of citizens dwelling in
the towns and surrounding countries.

The old wooden business houses and blocks in these cities

IOWA LEAVES. 91

and villages are being torn down and magnificent brick blocks
are fast taking their places, and the size and quality of the stock
of goods carried by the business men are as constantly and
rapidly improving, and their schools and churches rank among
the best in the state; factories are being established in all these
towns, as the location, railroad facilities, abundance of water
and cheap fuel are benefits of which manufacturers will take
advantage, and finally cause them to establish their works in
these regions, while those already located here are very suc-
cessful. The coal-mining industry in the blue grass regions is
in better condition at present than at any time since the creat-
ing of the departments. The ventilation, drainage and general
security of nearly all the mines in this region have been
greatly improved. The double-entry system and the split-air
system are rapidly taking the place of the old methods, and con-
sequently the bad air in mines and other evils are much dimin-
ished. It is said that the mining law and mine inspection of
Iowa are second only to Pennsylvania. These mines during the
past year have enjoyed a splendid trade. Although there has
been no advance in prices, all things considered, it has been a
very prosperous year, and the outlook at present is very
encouraging for the future. We think this can be attributed, to
a certain extent, to so many new railroads opening up in the
west, which makes a large market for Iowa coal, and the freight
rates being more favorable to the west has a tendency to shut
out competition.

When we consider that as recently as seventy-five years
ago in England and Scotland coal was carried to the surface by
women on their heads; that wheelbarrows or sleds dragged by
hand or by dogs were used for a long time; that hoisting was
done by horses in gins or by water-balance shafts; that even

92 • IOWA LEAVES.

after the introduction of iron rails, until a recent date, horses
and mules were exclusively employed, all of which could trans-
port but limited quantities of coal, we can better appreciate
the great advantages of modern progress in the way of
machinery, which now brings more coal to the surface of the
earth in a day than half a century ago was brought in a year.

The many advantages herein enumerated are but a few of
those possessed by the blue grass regions of southwest Iowa5
the whole of which can only be known and appreciated by a
personal inspection or residence in this country, which will bear
the closest inspection and test, as it is impossible to give more
than a brief description of the same at this time in this work.
But those who have lived here for years know whereof we
speak. We confidently invite the stranger to test the truth
of our assertions by a personal visit and inspection, knowing
that he will find the blue grass regions all and more than we
herein claim for it.

PEN PICTURE OF CRESTON AND THE BLUE GRASS PALACE.

Love of nature, that strong feeling of enthusiasm which
leads to profound admiration of the whole works of creation,
belongs, it may be presumed, to a certain peculiarity of organi-
zation, and has no doubt existed in different individuals from
the beginning of the world. The old poets and philosophers,
romance writers and troubadours had all looked upon nature
with observing and admiring eyes. Most of them have
given incidentally charming pictures of spring, of the setting
sun, of particular favorite spots and of favorite flowers. There
are few writers of note, of any country or of any age, from
whom quotation might not be made on this subject ; therefore,
it will be necessary that the reader should accompany us

IOWA LEAVES. 93

through the most romantic country in the world and with us
gaze on the most subhme picture of the age. We are confident
that you will be agreeably pleased, delighted and entertained
in making the journey. Never before had art and nature been
manipulated with so great genius and skill as was demonstrated
in the blue grass palaces of 1889 and 1890. A perfect pano-
rama of all that is beautiful in art and nature was expressed here
in all its intensity, and until this work had not been written on.
exclusively.

Three vears or more ag^o an idea originated in the Blue
Grass League of southwestern Iowa, of the creation of a palace
to be built on the fair grounds at Creston, in Union county,,
being the most central location in the regions, and where each
of the aforesaid counties, all members of the league, might
exhibit the products of their soils — a place where people might
meet together in one grand holiday exposition after the harvest
was past and the summer ended. The idea met with the
approval of all officers and members of the league, and the pal-
ace was built and thrown open to the public on August 26, 1889,
and each county in the league occupied a separate booth in the
very unique structure, where they exhibited all their fruits,
vegetables, grasses and grains, products of the dairy, wood,
coal, sandstone, marble and numerous articles from the manu-
facturing industries throughout the blue grass regions. Here
was certainly one of the grandest scenes ever witnessed by
people in any country under the sun. A magnificent structure
completely covered with all the varieties of grasses and golden
grains grown in the blue grass regions, manipulated with all
the beautiful flowers of the fields, the architecture being hand-
somely wrought in all the novel decorations, giving it a decided
appearance of those grand old palaces or hanging-gardens of ye

94 IOWA LEAVES.

olden times, of which we have often read in the oldest and best
history of the world. It not only presented an interesting and
charming appearance, but one of great study as well to a vast
multitude who gazed upon the sublime beauty and lofty mag-
nificence of the onl}' original blue grass palace in the world.

The palace of 1889 proving such a splendid ovation, the
league decided that the one of 1890 should far surpass in true
beauty and elegance the one of the 3^ear before, so it was enlarged
to three times the former size and thrown open to the public again
on August 26, 1890, and the whole world has learned through
this palace the wonders of the blue grass regions in south-
western Iowa.

The front of this beautiful structure, composed entirely of
the products of the soil, faces the east, and has a total length
from north to south of 265 feet and is 132 feet wide, the main
tower in the center of the building being 120 feet high, while on
the north and south wings are two towers ninety feet high;
over the main entrance on the east side is another tower 100
feet in length, which, with several smaller towers, give the
building a grand appearance, and far surpasses, both in the
exterior and the interior finish, the one of 1889, and contains
more than three times the amount of space, giving each county
in the league just double the room it had the year previous.
The entire south wing of the new building is devoted entirely
to a vast auditorium, which seats comfortably 2,000 people.
Eighteen counties chose their respective booths in the new
building in which to make their exhibits, the Ottumwa Coal
Palace Association one, while the Northern Pacific Railroad
Company chose two, in which to exhibit samples of the excel-
lent products from the famous section of country along their line
of road from St. Paul to Puget sound. The remaining booths

IOWA LEAVES. 95

were occupied by the District Fair Association with a most
interesting display, while numerous business firms of Creston
occupied large space on the gallery floor.

This great exposition and industrial exhibit was opened to
the world at large on August 26, 1890, by Gov. Horace
Boies, the palace governor of Iowa, with all the pride and
splendor which all true Iowan§ know so well how to assume.
The noted Iowa State Band of Des Moines accompanied
the governor and staff, and discoursed music on this occa-
sion calculated to stir the innermost depths of the human
soul. The vast and beautifully decorated auditorium in the
south wing of the lovely building was filled to overflowing with
a sea of happy faces, while the handsome galleries above fairly
groaned beneath the burden of an eager, anxious humanity,
and, when the highest executive of the greatest state in the
Union stepped to the front of the large stage so exquisitely
decorated with all the products of our soil, and looked upon all
the luxurious grandeur surrounding him, the enthusiasm was
so great that thousands of handkerchiefs fluttered to the
breeze, while cheers of greeting went up from the mouths of
over 4,000 people. Such scenes as were witnessed here on the
opening day of the palace of 1890 are perhaps only experienced
but once in a single life, and are certainly grand beyond descrip-
tion; they must be seen to be appreciated. Scarcely had the
sweet notes of the beautiful rendition, "Hail to the Chief," died
away when the governor expressed himself as highly delighted
with the magnificent palace and decorations, which were the
most beautiful and elaborate ever seen on the continent.
" There is always something new under the sun, and this
beautiful palace, constructed of the products of our soil,
demonstrates this fact to our people. This structure is indeed

96 IOWA LEAVES.

wonderful to look upon, and all lovers of art and nature are
both delighted and interested as they gaze upon this great
monument of industry and enterprise erected by the people of
southwest Iowa, and by them exquisitely decorated with all
the products of a rich soil."

One of the most conspicuous and novel features of this
palace is the royal suspension bridge stretching from north to
south on the highest portion of the building, twelve feet wide,
from which a magnificent view of Creston and the beautiful
surrounding country is obtained; also of the race tracks below,
on which wonderful records of speed are made every day during
the exposition.

Union county being the home of the Blue Grass Palace,
and also the home of the writer, we will dwell at some length
on a description of the same and of the city of Creston, her
county seat and the metropolis of southwest Iowa. Should we
show any partiality in the description of our own county, we
hope to be pardoned by our friends living in other portions of
the state.

Union county is beautifully situated in the southwestern
part of Iowa, between Adams and Clarke, while Madison and
Adair join lands with her on the north, and a county called
Ringold looks upon her with favor from the south. Creston,
the county seat, contains over 8,000 inhabitants, and is located
on the highest crest of land between the majestic Mississippi,
which marks the eastern boundary of our state, and the great
Missouri that bounds it on the west, 190 miles west of Burling-
ton and no east of Omaha, Neb.; it is also situated on the
main line of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, which
penetrates the county from east to west by main line, and from
north to south b}' branches.

IOWA LEAVES.

The country surrounding Creston is high and undulating,
with a landscape of great beauty in all directions, while hand-
some brick blocks adorn the principal streets of the city,
solidly built, denoting great business prosperity. A complete
system of water-works is in construction, which, when finished,
will furnish a constant supply of pure water to her inhabit-
ants. A line Westinghouse electric light plant furnishes
incandescent light for lighting streets and buildings, and the
city has an efficient free delivery system of the mails and one
of the finest-equipped fire departments in the west.

LAKE MAURINE, NEAR CRESTON.

Creston now contains an area of 2,540 acres, with a total
of eighty-five miles of streets and as much of sidewalks; it has
a frontage of brick buildings amounting to nearly 3,000 feet,
which are estimated to be worth about $100,000. There
is a good system of sewerage established, and miles of water-
mains leading through the principal streets of the city. The
railroad tracks and buildings occupy about ten blocks of

IOWA LEAVES.

the original plat and mark a dividing line between the north
and south sides, the business portion of the city lying north
of the tracks. A handsome court-house was erected on North

COURT-HOUSE.

Pine street about one year ago at a cost of $30,000, which is
an ornament to the city, and one of the finest public build-
ings in southwestern Iowa. The height to the top of the brick

IOWA LEAVES. 99

work is fifty-six feet, and to the final ninety feet. The lower
story is used for auditor, clerk of court, treasurer, recorder,
sheriff, county attorney and superintendent of schools, and con-
tains five vaults. There is a double stairway in front, and single
stairway in the rear leading up to the second floor, where a
large court-room is located. This room is 36x60 feet, and
twenty-four-foot ceiling. The council chamber is 1 7x40 feet ; the
room for grand and petit juries, and private chamber for judge
of superior court are on this floor. A splendid public-school
system, of which every true lowan is justly proud, finds a per-
manent home in Creston and Union county; four commodious
brick school-houses of three stories each, three frame and
one new modern high school are found in the city of Cres-
ton, and no section of country is more favorably located as to
district schools. The buildings are mostly of frame, with good
furniture and all the modern appliances for the rapid develop-
ment of the mind and body. The various religious denomina-
tions have good church homes both in the city and country.
No state in the Union has a larger per cent, of intelligence
among the masses than Iowa, and no county has more people
who can read and write, and a larger number professing the
Christian religion according to the population, than Union
county. The rapid growth of this city is largely due to the
Chicago, Burlington & Quincy shops being located here, which
employ a great number of men; being also a division station
large numbers emplo3'ed in the train service necessarily make
their homes here, and being the county seat her prospects are
fine for becoming a large and prosperous city.

A handsome brick depot with limestone trimmings is in
contemplation by the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad,
and will no doubt be built next spring. An elegant brick block

1 n^on>'

100

IOWA LEAVES.

has just been completed on the corner of Adams and Pine
streets, one block north of the Union depot, the lower floor of
which is already filled with business firms, while the upper sto-
ries are being fitted for the elegant new Ewing hotel, and will
be opened about March i. This block is known as the Gibson-
Grifhn block, and is one of the finest in southern Iowa; the

SCENE LOOKING NORTH ON MAPLE STREET.

rooms all being new and supplied with elegant furnishings
make it a preferable resort for the traveling public. Mr. R. E.
Ewing, the proprietor, is a thorough business man of great
energy, and has hosts of friends in the blue grass regions of

IOWA LEAVES. 101

southwestern Iowa. This hotel, under the management of Mr.
and Mrs. R. E. Ewing, will be strictly first-class in every
respect, and, in the selection of help necessary to carry on
such a hotel, none but competent men and women of large
experience have been engaged. This hotel is one of the long-
felt wants of the palace city, and we hope to see it liberally
patronized by the traveling public. Reader, when you come up
to Creston to see the blue grass palace of 1891, you w^ill find all
that is desirable in this hotel, one block north of the depot.
Creston is prepared to entertain in first-class style all the stran-
gers who may enter her gates, as the Summit House, corner of
Adams and Elm streets, is also a fine hotel, three stories in
height and contains about seventy rooms; it is operated by Mr.
James Beck, formerly of Fairfield, who understands fully the
art of catering to the public, having had years of experience in
the business. This hotel is also first-class in every respect, and
accommodates a large share of the traveling public.

The Hotel De Miller on the south side is a well-kept house,
and during the past year has done a good business; it serves
excellent meals at very reasonable rates.

A number of other smaller hotels and private boarding-
houses are found in the city, and also a number of good res-
taurants; among the latter is Schorr's European restaurant,
recently opened in the new Gibson-Griffin block, one of the
finest in the state and a place where the most fastidious may go
and be served with all the delicacies which the season affords.
Suppers for puplic and private balls and parties are furnished
on short notice, and everything the epicurean could wish for is
prepared in style at moderate prices, and meals are served at
all hours. B. L. Schorr has the finest location in the cit}- and
certainly deserves the liberal patronage which he receives.

102

IOWA LEAVES.

All the different classes of business necessary to supply
the demands of regions tributary to a city are carried on in
Creston and several large wholesale houses have an extensive

RESIDENCE OF W. F. PATT.

trade in the city and with many towns in the surrounding
counties.

IOWA LEAVES. 103

GROCERIES,

The largest retail grocery establishment is the firm of
Scurr & Gotten, located on North Pine, East Montsomerv
and West Adams streets. This firm came to the city about
six years ago, and by the excellent manner in which they
have dealt with the public have been very successful in busi-
ness, and have won both fame and distinction in the palace
city and throughout the blue grass regions of southwest Iowa.
Scurr & Gotten employ about twenty-five clerks and two expe-
rienced bookkeepers in the three places of business, paying
out monthly large sums of money, which circulate in this city.
The lower store on North Pine and an elegant china hall on
East Montgomery are under the supervision of Mr. James
Scurr, while the "West End Grocer}'," on West Adams street,
is successfully operated by Mr. S. R. Gotten; each grocery has
a first-class meat market in connection, which makes it very con-
venient for people to trade with them. Both of these gentle-
men are first-class, energetic business men, and are certainly
deserving of the immense trade they receive both in the city
and country. This firm occupied large space on the gallery
floor of the blue grass palace of 1890, with an elegant display
of groceries, queensware and cured meats, which was greatly
admired by all visitors.

The next retail grocery of interest in this city is located
on North Maple street, in merchants^ block, is owned and
operated by Mr. A. P. Munson, and bears the name of the
"Palace Grocery." Mr. Munson has been a resident of Greston
for a number of years, and has built up a large trade; he is a
business man of great merit. He employs five clerks and one
experienced bookkeeper, and has a complete system of the
Barr cash carrier in operation. Order and neatness always

104

IOWA LEAVES.

prevail in the Palace Grocery, which is filled with an excel-
lent stock of goods carried only in a first-class grocery store,
and there is a well-equipped meat market in connection.

RESIDENCE OF R. S. KEITH.

Near the corner of Adams and Maple streets, in the Mal-
lory block, is located another prosperous grocery store. A sign
swinging to the breeze reads "M. A. Nye," and we are led to

IOWA LEAVES. 105

believe that he may be a brother of "Bill Nye" of Boomerang
fame, but on entering the store and becoming acquainted
with the genial proprietor we find that, although he bears a
family resemblance to "Bill," he is not related. Mr. Nye carries
a splendid stock of groceries, runs a large bakery in con-
nection, has long been a resident of Creston and has gradually
risen to the top rung of the ladder; always courteous and
pleasant to the public, he has made many friends in Creston and
throughout southwest Iowa.

Passing up Adams street on our way to the postoffice we
notice another retail grocery on the left hand near Elm street.
The sign reads "Ed W. Graham," and we enter and find
a large stock of neatly arranged goods on the shelves and
pleasant clerks ready to wait upon all customers. We are
informed that Mr. Graham has long- been a resident of the
palace city, while his grocery is one of the old landmarks; he
has also been chief of the fire department for a number of years,
and has at all times been highly regarded by the citizens of this
city for services rendered in that capacity.

The fifth grocer}^ store is located on Montgomery street,
between Maple and Pine streets, in the Eagle block. This firm
is well and favorably known both in the city and country, and
bears the name of Irwin & Hawk. These gentlemen are among
the rising young business men of this city, having had much
experience in the grocery business. Their trade steadily
increases as the years go by. They carry a full line of every-
thing known to the retail grocery trade, and the store presents
an air of neatness and will bear a personal inspection.

The Pioneer Grocery of Evershed & Cartright, on North
Pine street, is also worthy of notice; therefore, on our rounds
we will give them a call. We find that Mr. C. Evershed has

106

IOWA LEAVES.

been in the grocery business for many years and that Mr. Cart-
right has also had years of experience in this Hne of trade. They
are both agreeable and first-class business men, and carry a large
stock of goods, supplying the wants of numerous customers both
in the city and country.

SCENE LOOKING WEST ON MONTGOMERY STREET.

J. W. Waterman of south side fame is an old resident
of the palace city, and has the honor of having the largest
retail grocery store in that part of the city, having a fine loca-
tion on Union street, between Elm and Maple. We find in his

IOWA LEAVES. 107

Store a full and complete stock of groceries and queensware,
from which Mr. Waterman supplies a large trade in the city
and country. He employs several efficient clerks and one
experienced bookkeeper, who are always ready to serve the
public.

There are numerous other retail grocery firms in this city,
all doing a good business, and Creston is certainly well supplied
in this line of trade.

DRY GOODS.

Dry goods is the next class of business largely represented
in the blue grass palace city, and we boast of having eight
prosperous firms, active in supplying a large city and country
trade. The first one which claims our attention is the hand-
some store of Phil. A. Derr, corner of North Pine and East
Montgomery streets. Mr. Derr carries a mammoth stock of
goods, seemingly large enough to supply the wants of the whole
blue grass regions; he has been in the dry goods business in
Creston since it became an inncorporated village, and is well
and favorably known throughout the whole of southwest Iowa,
his trade extending far beyond the limits of his own county.
The stock of goods carried by Mr. Derr is first-class and com-
plete in every department and presided over by clerks of long
experience. Mr. Derr employs, in all, about ten clerks and
one efficient bookkeeper. When our readers come up to the
blue grass palace of 1891 it will pay them to look through
Phil A. Derr's large dry goods emporium, where a cordial
welcome is extended to all.

The second dry goods store of interest in this city is that
of Bennison Bros., on North Maple street. This firm occupies
a neat two-story red brick building, which is tilled with as fine

108 IOWA LEAVES.

a stock of diy goods as is carried in the blue grass regions, and
uses an excellent system of the Barr cash carrier. The dry
goods and notions are on the lower floor, while the carpets,
curtains, oil cloths, rugs and mattings are above. Every
department in the store is presided over by an experienced
clerk. Bennison Bros, have been in the dry goods business
here for a number of years, employ a large force and command
a fine trade both in the city and country. They also run a
large establishment in Omaha, Neb.

Merchants' block on North Maple street contains another
large dry goods store, which is a well-known one, the proprietors
having grown up in the dry goods business in the blue grass
palace city, it being no other than that of Cullen & Bullard,
who, by courteous and liberal treatment of the public, com-
mand a very large trade in the city and surrounding country.
They carry an excellent line of dry goods and notions, curtains
and carpets, and employ a number of competent clerks and one
good bookkeeper. The business of this lirm has rapidly
assumed a magnitude of importance second to none in the city.

A little farther west on Maple street, in the elegant brick
block owned by Mr. W. N. Kelley, one of Creston's most sub-
stantial business men, is Kelley's cash bargain store. Mr.
Kelley occupies the handsome corner room of this building with
an excellent stock of dry goods, notions, carpets and general
merchandise, and has b^en in the business here for years, under-
standing fully the wants of the public. Mr. Kelley draws a
large trade to our city from all parts of Union county and from
large territories tributary to Creston. In the selection of help
necessary to carry on a general store, Mr. Kelley employed
none but those fully competent to wait upon the large trade
which he has built up on strictly upright, honest, business

IOWA LEAVES. 109

principles. The Kelley block is three stories in height, and
one of the handsomest specimens of architecture in the blue
grass palace city.

On East Adams street, between Maple and Pine, in the
Gibson-Griffin block, is a general store owned and operated by
James Griffin, who is one of Creston's substantial merchants.
This store contains a fine stock of dry goods and groceries and
general merchandise, and Mr. Griffin's trade extends over large
territories of country aside from a large city trade. He is also
largely identified with the interests of the blue grass palace city,
and the handsome new block just finished on the corner of
Adams and Pine streets was built by himself and Mr. John Gib-
son. Mr. Griffin has also been an efficient member of the
Creston School Board for a number of years.

The stock of goods carried by Mr. J. Yeager on North
Pine street, consisting of dry goods and clothing, is a great
place for bargains, while Mr. Yeager himself is an old and
esteemed citizen of Union county, having recently removed to
Creston from Afton, where he carried on an extensive business
for years, and still continues to draw a large share of patronage
from the people of Union county.

CLOTHING.

The third class of business largely represented in Creston,
which is necessary to supply a large trade in the city and
surrounding territory, is that of clothing. There are eight
prosperous concerns in the blue grass palace city, which
carry clothing, hats, caps and gentlemen's furnishing goods. The
first and largest is that of L. Friend, on North Pine street.
Mr. Friend, the genial proprietor, came to Creston when the
town was in its infancy, and has been very prosperous in this

110

IOWA LEAVES.

line of business. Two years or more ago he built the elegant
brick store which he now occupies, and which is one of the finest

in southwest Iowa, lighted by
electricity and heated by steam,
while the interior finish is of
hard oiled pine. This handsome
store is filled with a full and
complete stock of all the first-
class goods known to the cloth-
ing trade and each department
is presided over by pleasant and
agreeable clerks. Mr. Friend is
well and favorably known over
large territories of country sur-
rounding Creston and commands
a fine trade among the people of
southwest Iowa.
The second clothing firm is that of Derr & Smith, also lo-
cated on North Pine street, between Adams and Montgomery.
These gentlemen embarked in the clothing business about five
years ago, and, by the excellent manner in which they have
waited upon the public, now command a large trade in the city
and surrounding country. Their stock of goods is complete in
all departments and they employ none but agreeable and com-
petent clerks to wait upon customers. Derr & Smith are old
residents of Creston, having been in the dry goods business pre-
vious to entering the clothing interests of the blue grass palace
city.

The third clothing firm is pleasantly located on West
Adams street, between Elm and Maple, and bears the name of
the Chicago Clothing Company. This store is under the super-

CLOTHING STORE OF L. FRIEND.

IOWA LEAVES. Ill

vision of Mr. J. L. Ogg, who is a gentleman of more than
ordinary business abihty. Mr. Ogg came to the blue grass
palace city about six years ago as manager of the Chicago
Clothing Compan}', and since his sojourn here has given excel-
lent satisfaction, both to the company he represents and the
public at large in the blue grass regions of Iowa. The stock
of goods carried by this firm is first-class in ever}'^ depart-
ment, and presided over by clerks of large experience in the
clothing business. Mr. Ogg has made many friends in Creston
and Union county and his store is always filled with a good
class of customers.

The fourth merchant dealing in this line is Col. O. Keefe,
in the same block as the Chicago Clothing Company, who also
has a splendid stock of clothing, hats, caps and gentlemen's
furnishing goods and has a large city and country trade.

L. Newman, on the corner of Maple and Adams streets,
has a fine location, and commands a large share of patronage
both in the city and country.

Several dry goods merchants in the cit}^ carry lines of
clothing; therefore, this business is certainly well represented
in the palace city.

HARDWARE.

The fourth interesting class of busmess which claims our
attention in this city is that of hardware, and five large stores
represent this interest. The first is the elegant store of R. S.
Keith & Co., located on North Maple street, in Merchants' block,
who carry a mammoth stock of stoves and hardware, wagon
wood, bar iron and steel. Mr. Keith is one of Creston's most
successful merchants and has a fine trade. His display of stoves
and granite ironware on the gallery floor of the blue grass

112 IOWA LEAVES.

palace of 1890 was tne wonder and admiration of all visitors
to the palace.

James Ferman & Son, who have recently moved into ele-
gant new quarters in the Mallory block, on Adams street,
between Elm and Maple, which has just been completed, are at
home to all their old friends, and also invite all strangers to call
and look through their elegant stock of stoves, hardware, tin-
ware and cutlery. Mr. Ferman is one of the most reliable
business men of the palace city, while his son Charles is among
the rising young business men of southwest Iowa.

Chas. Edgerton, on North Pine street, shows a full and
complete line of everything known to the hardware trade, and
is a young man of exceptionally fine business ability; he is also
president of the Iowa State Savings Bank of this city.

J. H. Patt, on West Adams street, occupies commodious
quarters in the Opera House block, which he owns, with as
fine a stock of hardware as is carried in the blue gr-rass res^ions.
Mr. Patt deals also in dump scrapers and agricultural imple-
ments, is one of the leading merchants of southwest Iowa and
one of Creston's most esteemed citizens.

A. R. Fuller carries a fine stock of hardware on North
Pine street in connection with a large grocery store and com-
mands a fine trade.

All of the above firms are composed of energetic business
men, and all have done much toward the upbuilding of the
blue grass palace city.

DRUGS.

The retail drug business is largely represented by seven
different elegant places of business. First is the Summit drug
store in Summit House block, of which J. W. Bagly has been

IOWA LEAVES. ' 113

proprietor for a number of years; it has always given excel-
lent satisfaction to the public, while the pharmacy has been
under the supervision of Mr. Bagly himself, w^ho has always
taken exceeding pains to please all his patrons in this depart-
ment. Mr. Bagly has lately purchased the Carpenter block,
which he expects to occup}* in the near future with an excel-
lent stock of new drugs.

The second is the drug store of A. B. Henr}', on the corner
of Pine and Adams streets. Mr. Henry occupies handsome
quarters in the corner room of the elegant new building under
the Ewing hotel, where he carries an elaborate stock of drugs
and fancy articles, having recently moved from the south side
of the city, where he was successful in the same business for
several years. Mr. Henr}' looks after the pharmacy depart-
ment with great skill and is now situated to supply the wants
of both north and south side residents.

The next drug store of interest in the palace city is that
of George Leith, on North Maple street, in the Kelley block.
Mr. Leith is one of Creston's successful young merchants, and
carries a large stock of drugs and all goods connected with the
trade, while the clerks employed are gentlemanly and obliging,
and the pharmacy is looked after with care by Mr. Leith
himself.

On East Montgomer}- street, in the Eagle block, is the
drug store of E. A. Aldrich, which is one of the best in the city,
filled with an excellent line of drugs and other goods carried
by the trade. The pharmacy is first-class in every particular
and presided over by competent prescription clerks. Mr.
Aldrich has been in the drug business in Creston for a
number of years, and is one of the leading merchants of the
palace city.

114 70TT''.4 LEAVES. ^

James Schedeker, on North Pine street, has a cosy store
and an excellent stock of drugs from which to suDoly the wants
of his numerous customers.

BOOTS AxND SHOES.

The boot and shoe business is carried on very extensively
in the blue grass palace city, and six large stores carry boots
and shoes exclusively. First is the firm of A. E. Keith & Son,
on Adams street, between Elm and Maple, which carries a
mammoth stock of all goods connected with this line of business,
its trade extending over all portions of the citv and country
surrounding Creston.

The second is the firm of Winhafer & Fields, in the Kelley
block on North Maple street, which also carries a fine line of
boots, shoes, slippers, etc. Mr. Winhafer was connected with
the boot and shoe business a number of years previous to his
entering business for himself five years ago, as was also Mr.
Fields.

The third is the boot and shoe firm of Noble & McClure,
on North Maple street, which carries a spendid stock of goods,
and low prices have won them a large trade in Creston and
Union count}-.

The boot and shoe store of C. Eckerson, corner of North
Pine and Montgomery streets, in the Pine street Opera House
block, is another well-stocked store, and carries nothing but first-
class goods. Mr. Eckerson has been identified with the interests
of the blue grass palace city a number of years, and commands
a fine trade both in the city and in Union county.

Thomas McGrath has a neat and cosy store on North Pine
street, and is certainly deserving of the large patronage he
receives. Courteous and liberal in all his dealings with the

IOWA LEAVES. 115

public have been the means of winning him a large trade in
Creston and the surrounding country. Mr. McGrath is largely
interested in the palace city and contemplates the erection of
a handsome brick block during the coming season.

FURNITURE.

In all parts of the world and in all cities the manufacture
and sale of furniture are among the leading enterprises; there-
fore, this interest is one of the leading lines of business in this
city. First is the elegant store of Mackemer Bros., on North
Maple street in Merchants' block, which occupies two floors
with an excellent quantity and quality of goods.

J. T. Horton, on North Maple street, also carries a full and
complete stock of furniture, and is a pleasant and liberal gentle-
man who understands fully the wants of his customers, and
one of the successful merchants in the blue grass palace cit3^
His trade extends over the entire city and over large territories
of country surrounding Creston, and he is certainly deserving
of the large share of patronage he receives.

The new firm of Elmer Sterner & Company occupies hand-
some quarters in the Summit House block, two doors west of
the postoffice, with an elegant stock of furniture, and invites
the citizens of Creston and Union county to carefully inspect
the store. The gentlemen who compose this hrm grew from
boyhood in the palace city, and have the full confidence and
esteem of all their numerous friends in Creston and Union
county. We predict for them a prosperous future

REAL ESTATE AND INSURANCE.

While real estate is not exactly on the boom in Creston,
sales are always steady the year round, and many large deals

116 IOWA LEAVES.

were made in this line during the past year. Among the
prominent real estate and insurance agents in the blue grass
palace city may be mentioned the name of W. F. Patt, who has
been in the real estate business in this city for a number of
years, and is one of Creston's most energetic business men,
always on the alert for something advantageous to his city and
county. Mr. Patt represents a large business in this line, and
is always ready to show property and tell of Creston's man}'
advantages, and is now offering for thirty days i,ooo lots for
sale on easy payments and good time

The next popular real estate agent is A. H. Spurr, one of
Creston's rising young business men, who occupies elegant
rooms in the new Mallory block, on Adams street, between Elm
and Maple. Mr. Spurr was the leading photographer of south-
west Iowa for a number of years, but sold out his business about
two years ago and embarked in real estate, in which he has
been very successful, having made some very large sales of
city and country property during the past year.

J. L. Haverich, in Devoe's brick block, is another promi-
nent real estate agent who makes numerous sales of city and
country property, and is a pleasant and agreeable gentleman.

J.B. Kirch,, in Merchants' block on North Maple street, is
one of Creston's successful real estate dealers, and has made
during the past year many sales of farm and city property.

Willet & Hitchcock, in the Eagle block, are engaged in
the real estate business, and are favorably known in Creston
and Union county, possessing the confidence and esteem of all
who know them. They represent both city and farm property.

I. E. Rogers represents a large amount of city and farm
property in Union county and is a gentleman of unusual busi-
ness ability.

IOWA LEAVES. 117

The Western Land Company, with H. Farley as its presi-
dent and S. A. Eckerson as its secretary and treasurer, repre-
sent thousands of acres of improved lands in the blue grass
regions of Iowa, and millions of acres of improved and wild
lands in the west, and handle city property on the most
favorable time payments.

The Creston Abstract Company, with E. S. Ketcham as
manager, make a specialty of selling, exchanging and renting
all kinds of real property. The members of this company have
been in the business for years and are well versed therein.

LUMBER AND COAL

The lumber interests of Creston are largel}" represented by
three well-equipped 3^ards, which are as follows: C. S. Rex, on
the corner of Montgomery and North Oak streets, has a large
lumber yard, and carries coal and kindling wood in connection.
Mr. Rex has built up a large trade in the city of Creston and
in large territories of country tributary, and is an enterpris-
ing business man. Courteous and liberal treatment of the pub-
lic has been the means of making him many friends in the blue
grass regions of southwest Iowa.

The Gen. Palmer Lumber Company of Red Oak is repre-
sented in this city by I. W. Richardson, its manager, who
is a gentleman of large experience in the lumber business, being
thoroughly posted in every detail connected with it. This com-
pany handles also large quantities of coal and is located on
West Adams street.

C. S. Millard conducts a large lumber yard on Oak and
Montgomery streets, and handles coal in connection; he is
numbered among Creston''s enterprising merchants, and is also
a member of the Creston school board.

118 IOWA LEAVEi:,

The coal interest is largely represented in the palace city,
there being- numerous other firms handlinsj coal aside from the
lumber merchants. The first is that of I. R. Hogaboom, on
North Pine street, who handles an excellent stock of farm imple-
ments, and coal in connection. Mr. Hogaboom is one of Cres-
ton's best citizens and successful merchants, having been in this
line of business here for years, and commands a large trade both
in the city and countr}-.

I. Worthington & Co., in East Creston, handle large quan-
tities of coal and wood, and are proprietors of a large elevator
near the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy tracks in that part of
the city. Mr. R. R. Palmer is the successful manager of this
firm, who, since his location in Creston, has built up a large
trade. Mr. Palmer is a business man of rare ability and gives
excellent satisfaction to all customers who trade with him.

E. C. Lucas deals extensively in farm implements and coal
on North Pine street and receives a large patronage from the
citizens of Creston and Union count}'.

F. J. Taylor, in West Creston, dealer in grain and seeds,
handles large quantities of coal in connection, and owns the
largest elevator in the city, near the Chicago, Burlington &
Quincy tracks. Mr. Taylor has been closely identified with the
interests of the blue grass palace city for a number of years and
has done much toward the upbuilding of the same. His name
is as familiar as a household word throughout the blue grass
regions of southwest Iowa, being also well and favorably known
throughout the states of Illinois, Minnesota, Nebraska, Kansas
and Missouri, and he was at one time the heaviest grain-shipper
over the Illinois Central railroad at Chebanse, 111. ; subsequently
he was one of the largest shippers on the main line of the ''Q."
road at Emerson, in Mills county, Iowa, (one of the ver}^ richest

IOWA LEAVES.

119

counties in the blue grass regions), from which he shipped
in one 3'ear 1,600 cars of corn. In 1S83 he built a large ele-

F. J. TAYLOR.

vator in the palace city. Mr. Taylor has served four successive
terms of office as mayor of Creston, but left no marks upon its

120 IOWA LEAVES.

history save those of honest, upright, active service. The affairs
of the palace city were never in better condition than during
his administration, nor have they been since. In the year 1889
Mr. Taylor organized the great American Circus, Museum and
Menagerie, first-class in every department, which he has con-
ducted for the past two years in a strictly honest and gentle-
manly manner; during his absence his coal, grain and seed busi-
ness has been carefully looked after by Mr. Chas. Snyder, who
has been in Mr. Taylor's employ since 1882 and is one of the
leading young business men of the palace city.

Mr. Taylor's record as a first-class business man has been
clearly demonstrated in the organization of this show, which has
at all times and in all places been conducted on thorough, honest,
business principles. In the selection of artists he has been very
careful in securing the best moral talent the country affords; in
fact, all his numerous attractions have been selected with taste and
skill, particularly avoiding anything pertainijig to an inferior class.
The great American Circus, Museum and Menagerie is now in
winter quarters at Mr. Taylor's elegant home in the palace city,
and in looking through the stable we find that his ring stock is
unsurpassed in the United States. We have the pleasure of
looking upon the handsomest pure-blooded white Arabian horse
yet brought to the United States, the blood of which animal has
always been sacred to the Arab race. This horse has been
beautifully trained and is as graceful as a fairy.

Among the leading attractions in the carnivora are two
of the finest and largest camels in the world. Samson, the
towering giant of the Arabian desert, is a noble-looking animal.
It may be doubted if the people in the west ever overcome the
impression made upon them by the first view of a camel
equipped and loaded for the desert. Custom al to other

IOWA LEAVES.

121

novelties, affects this feeling, but little; people wherever they
may be, will stop and wait the passing of the stately brute. The
charm is not in the figure, which not even love can make beauti-
ful, nor in the movement, the noiseless stepping or the broad
carreer. As is the kindness of the sea to a ship, so is that of
the desert to a camel. It clothes him with all its mysteries,
in such a manner, too, that while we are looking at him we are

SAMSON.

thinking of them; therein is the wonder. Its color and height,
its breadth of foot, its bulk of body, not fat, but overlaid with
muscle; its long slender neck of swan-like curvature; the head,
wide between the eyes and tapering to a muzzle which a lady's
bracelet might almost clasp; its step long and elastic, tread
sure and soundless — all certify its true Syrian blood

1-22

IOWA LEAVES.

A bold and fierce-looking lion, the most fearless of living
creatures, paces back and forth in his cage, and longs for his
home in the African forest. The natives of that countr}', believ-
insf that the souls of their dead chiefs enter the bodies of these
animals, into which they also have the power when living of
transforming themselves at will, never kill them, and when
meeting these animals salute them by clapping their hands, a
courtesy which his highness frequentl}' returns b}' making a
meal of them.

The elephant has always been considered one of the

ROMEO.

BEAUTY.

greatest of living curiosities, and everybody goes to the show,
of course, to see the "elephant^'; therefore, a show without this
"beautiful" creature would be as nothins^ to the average
American. Mr. Taylor has been fortunate in securing one
of the best that money could buy, and really he is a hand-
some creature, and well trained to perform all tricks known to
the elephant family.

There are many other attractions connected with Mr.
Taylor's show, but we have neither the time nor space to

IOWA LEAVES. 123

describe them in this work, and will add in conclusion that he
has traveled over large territories of country during the past
two years, and the public, the press, the traveling men, the rail-
road men and, in fact, ever3'body confirms the report that F. J.
Taylor's great American Circus, Museum and Menagerie is the
cleanest and best show traveling in the United States. This
show, which opens out for the coming season in the palace city
about April 23 with the finest class of attractions in the world,
belongs to the long list of leading institutions in the blue grass
regions of southwest Iowa.

MANUFACTORIES.

W. H. Bradford, the genial proprietor of the Creston
roller mills, controls the largest manufacturing establishment
in the palace city, the capacity of which is eighty barrels per
day, and has a full roller system and all the new and improved
machinery methods and processes for manufacturing the finest
grades of flour; the property is worth $30,000. Mr. Bradford
is one of Crcston's enterprising merchants, and has always con-
tributed liberally of his means to all public undertakings by
which the city has been benefited.

Beggs Bros., wholesale manufacturers of wagons, transfer,
express, truck and all other kinds of business wagons, carriages,
buggies and road-carts, have one of the most successful manu-
facturing industries in southwest Iowa, and use all the im-
proved machinery necessary in carrying on a first-class estab-
lishment. Their capacity aside from carriage construction is
300 wagons a year, which are shipped to all parts of the country.

The following cut represents a handsome farm wagon
made by Beggs Bros., which for durability cannot be excelled
by any other manufacturer of farm wagons in the state. This

124

IOWA LEAVES.

firm came to the palace city about two years ago, and have
been very successful in this line of business; the}/ employ a large
force and command a fine trade in Creston and southwest
Iowa.

L. D. McClintock, on East Montgomery street, is a fine
workman of long experience in the construction of carriages,

wagons and road-carts, and manufactures a good, substantial
class of goods.

A large sasn factory on North Elm street, owned and
operated by J. W. Bartlett, is quite an industry in the palace
city and turns out sashes, doors, blinds and the other kinds of
work connected with such a factory.

MISCELLANEOUS.

The firm of Swan & Becker, dealers exclusively in butter
and eggs, are conveniently located in West Creston, near the
Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, and are well worthy
of notice, being large buyers, packers and shippers of one of
the greatest and most profitable industries in the blue grass
regions. Col. Swan, the proprietor, is an old and highly

IOWA LEAVES. 125

esteemed citizen of the blue grass palace city, having been one
of the proprietors of the Summitt House for many years pre-
vious to entering this business. The trade of this firm reaches
over the whole of southern Iowa, while large quantities of butter
and eggs are shipped to southern and eastern markets.

The Creston Gas and Electric Light works are located in
East Creston, w^hile the office of the manager, Mr. O. Q. Holman,
who also deals largely in coal, drain tile and sewer pipe, is
located on North Elm street. Mr. Holman is one of the lead-
ing business men of the city, having but recently completed the
handsome building which he now occupies.

The firm of Burket Bros., on the corner of Maple and
Montgomery streets, dealers in artists' supplies and moldings,
also manufucturers of picture frames and window shades, funeral
directors and embalmers, are the leaders in these lines in the
palace city. Both of these gentlemen are well and favora-
bly known in Creston and Union count}', being greatly in-
terested in the growth of the palace city, and are building up a
fine trade in the city and country surrounding Creston.

JEWELERS.

There are three first-class jewelry stores in the blue grass
palace city, and the first is that of J. B. Schanubur, on North
Pine street, who carries an elegant stock of goods, and com-
mands a fine trade in Creston and Union county.

S. A Bowers, on North Maple street, is prepared to serve
the public from an excellent line of jewelry and watches, such
as is only carried by a first-class firm, Mr. Bowers has been
in the jewelry business in Creston for a number of years and
commands a fine share of trade in the city and country. W. A.
Woodward, dealer in musical instruments and carrying a full

126

IOWA LEAVES.

stock of pianos and organs, occupies handsome quarters with
Mr. Bowers.

G. H. Daniels, on Adams street, between Elm and Maple
carries an excellent stock of jewelry and watches; he is also

HIGH SCHOOL.

watch inspector for the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy rail-
road company at this place.

There are numerous other interesting and profitable classes
of business represented in the palace city, but time and space

IOWA LEAVES.

Iz7

forbid the giving of every advantage possessed by Creston, the
county seat of Union county and metropolis of southwest Iowa.
We will, therefore, hurry on with a brief description of her
schools and churches.

The most pretentious school building which has been
erected in this city is that of the high school on the corner of
Elm and Mills streets, the site of the old high school build-
ing. The new structure combines features of various styles of
architecture, but the characteristic of the Norman predomi-
nates. The walls are of Kansas City pressed brick, resting on
a stone foundation, with limestone trimmings.
The ground plan is about 80x80 feet. The
building is furnished with the Ruttan system
of heating and ventilating and Smead's dry
closet system. The building contains the most
desirable features found in similar structures by
a committee of the Creston school board, which
visited a number of cities for the purpose of
arranging the most commendable
plans. The result of their work is
satisfactory to all; cost, $24,000.

Creston^s churches are a source
of pride to its people, who realize
that without their influence there
can be no good, and the substan-
tial growth in any of the lines of
commendable progress.

First is the new Catholic church
on the south side, of Gothic struct-
ure, and one of the handsomest in the west; it is built of
brick with limestone trimmings, and cost, including the

_iiiMi4

ST. MALACHY S CHURCH.

128

IOWA LEAVES.

grounas, about $36,000. The congregation of St. Malachy's
numbers about 175 families, who reside in and about Creston.
The Very Rev. Stephen Lyons, O. S. B., of St. Vincent's Abbey,
Pennsylvania, has charge of the Creston parish. Young, able,
enercretic and of broad education, he has won the hearts of all

his people.

The new Congregational church, corner Montgomery and
Division streets, is a handsome Gothic edifice and cost with the
grounds about $17,000. It has four entrances and the interior is

splendidly arranged for the various
needs of the congregation and beau-
tifully finished. The rich stained-
glass windows are an important
feature of its beauty. The pastor
is Rev. Allan J. VanWagner, a re-
fined and highly educated gentle-
man, whose talents are far above
those of the average minister of the
gospel, and who has done much to-
ward making his church one of the
most successful in southwest Iowa.
The membership numbers about
300
The First Methodist Episcopal church, corner of Elm and
Howard streets, is a fine, commodious building, the style of
architecture being mainly Gothic. Its walls are of brick, resting
upon a solid stone foundation, the interior finish being of hard
southern pine, while the windows are of the finest stained glass.
The seating capacity is 1,200 and cost $19,000. Rev. C. W.
Blodget is the present pastor of this church, having been pastor
of the same congregation some nine years ago. Rev. Blodget

CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH.

IOWA LEAVES.

129

is a universal favorite, not only among his ovrn people, but with
all denominations in Creston and southwest Iowa. This church
has a membership of over 500.

The First Presbyterian church, on West Adams street,
has one of the finest locations in the city; it is built of solid
red brick masonry, and has a membership of over 200. Rev.
W. H. Sn3'der, the pastor, is a young man of excellent education
and universally esteemed by the people of the blue grass palace
city.

The United Presbyterian church, corner of West Mont-
gomery and Chestnut streets, is a neat frame building and has
a membership of over 100. Rev.
L. N. Lafferty is pastor of this con-
gregation; he is an able and ear-
nest worker, and the church, with
its several societies, is doing good
w^ork under his pastorate.

The First Baptist church, cor-
ner of Maple and Mills streets, is a
tine frame edifice, with a congre-
gation numbering over 150. Rev.
Powell of Chicago has recently be-
come its pastor and it is very pros-
perous under his pastorate.

The Swedish Baptist, corner of North Vine and Mills
streets, is a neat, white frame, with a membership of about

sixty.

The Christian church, corner of Mills and North Elm
streets, is a cozy frame structure, the congregation of which
numbers over 200; the accommodations being small for so great
a number a new church is talked of for the near future.

FIRST METHODIST Kl'ISCOI'AL CHI'RCH.

130 • IOWA LEAVES.

The Evangelical church, corner of Walnut and Mills streets,
is among the first in the city, having been established as a mis-
sion in 1869; it is a neat frame building, with a membership of
over 100.

The Swedish Methodist church occupies a neat frame
edifice on the corner of Howard and ]Maple streets, with a
membership of about sevent3'-five.

The German Lutherans, on South Maple street, have a nice,
neat church building, parsonage and school-house, all in connec-
tion, and the pastor has charge of the school, which he conducts
very successfully on Saturdays and during the vacation of the
English schools, so that all may have a chance to learn the Ger-
man lan^uao-e.

The African Methodist church was organized in the spring
of 1888 and occupies a neat building on South Maple street, the
pulpit being filled every two weeks by an able pastor from
Osceola

In e^ivinof the schools of Creston we have almost for^rotten
to mention the business college, corner of ]Maple and Adams
streets, in the ]Mallory block, which is among the leading educa-
tional institutions of southwest Iowa. This college is under the
management of Professor and ]Mrs. W. II. Barrett, who have
proved themselves fully competent for the work connected there-
with; it receives a large share of students from southern Iowa,
and is very popular with business men and prominent educators
in the southwest part of the state.

Secret and fraternal orders are well represented in Creston
and have been since the organization of the town. The
I. O. O. F. societ}' in 1886 built an elegant brick block on the
corner of Pine and Mills streets. The buildins: is brick veneer-
ing upon solid stone foundations 30x110 feet and is two stories

IOWA LEAVES. 131

in height. The upper floor is divided into a spacious hallway,
two anterooms, from which open the lodge room proper, and
the banquet room. Ash trimmings, stained-glass windows and
splendid furnishings make it a handsome and pleasant place in
which to meet. The entire cost was $6,000.

The well and favorably known wholesale establishment of
B, F. Heinl}' & Co. is located on the lower floor of this building,
and none is more deserving of special notice than the above
firm, one of the best wholesale grocery houses in southern Iowa.
Since the opening of their business in this line they have been
favored with an excellent trade, brought about through the
good management and enterprise of each of the members of the
firm, until at present they are doing a business amounting each
year to $500,000. They handle all lines of groceries and
their trade extends over large territories of country, requir-
ing the constant services of a number of employes. Mr.
Heinly was among the first settlers of Creston, having located
here when the town was in its infancy.

The w^holesale house of A. J. Merrill & Co. is located on
North Pine street; they first opened their doors for business in
this city about six years ago, and are enjoying a constantly
increasing trade. They now have commodious quarters in the
Harsh and Burch brick block on North Pine street, where they
occupy large space. The firm should be proud of the record
they have established, as certainly every enterprising citizen of
Creston is proud to count their store among her leading business
industries.

The Creston Lounge Company is the name of a new manu-
facturing firm in the palace city. The members of this com-
pany are Geo. W. Auracher and Ed A. Aldrich, two of Cres-
ton's progressive business men. This company will engage in

132 IOWA LEAVES.

the business of manufacturing lounges and parlor suites, and will
occupy the entire building where Auracher's furniture store now
is, with the exception of the front room on the first floor.

NEWSPAPERS.

There are seven newspapers published in the palace city,
five weeklies and three dailies, all flrst-class journals. The flrst
is the Creston Advertiser^ which was established in Creston
July I, 1879, and has had a very successful journalistic career.
In 1881 Mr. S. A. Brewster, the editor and proprietor, added to
his business a bindery and blank-book manufactor}^ and the
Daily Advertiser was started December 5, 1881, since when
the various departments have been greatly added to, and Mr.
Brewster to-day publishes one of the best daily and weekly
newspapers in the blue grass regions or in the state of Iowa.
Mr. Brewster has been sole owner and manager of the institu-
tion from its re-establishment in 1879, with but one exception,
to the present time.

The Creston Gazette was established in the spring of 1873
b}'' J. B. Harsh and C. M. Schultz, and has changed hands a
-great number of times, but for the past two years has been
very successfully edited by J. B. Harsh and E. A. Brewster;
while the former is one of the most popular speakers in the
state of Iowa, the latter is as able a writer, therefore, their news-
paper has a very large circulation in southern Iowa, both its
weekly and dail}' editions.

The Independent American was removed from Afton to
Creston by W. H. Robb, the present editor, in 1880, Mr. Robb
having established the paper in Afton in January, 1887; he has
been its sole publisher and proprietor, with the exception of
about a year's partnership in 1886, during which time R. A.

IOWA LEAVES. 133 •

Dague owned a half interest. In politics Mr. Robb's paper
espouses the cause of the United Labor party, and it is issued
every Thursday. He is an able journalist and the paper has
an immense circulation throughout the blue e:rass resfions.

The Creston Common-wealth is a splendid paper, ably edited
by jMr. E. J. Side}', and was established in the palace city a
number of years ago. The daily and weekly both have a large
circulation in Creston and Union county.

The Sunday Ti7nes was established in the blue grass palace
city in the beginning of the year 1890 by Henry W. Lewis, and
has had a remarkable career. "Ever3'body" takes the Sunday
Times, which is issued every Sunday morning, and its columns
devoted to the latest societv, dramatic and relioious news of
the day. Mr. Lewis has recently associated himself with Mr.
A. N. Cole of Lenox, a prominent newspaper man of merit
who has removed to the palace city, and we understand that the
paper will be enlarged to twice the present size, and no doubt
will rank among the best in the state, as its circulation now
extends over large territories of the blue grass regions of south-
west Iowa.

Our business men and citizens generally will bear witness
to the loyalt}' of the Creston press, and to the splendid results
which have followed the efforts of the Creston newspapers to
extend the fame of the city abroad and of the many advantages
possessed by the blue grass regions of southwest Iowa.

The residence portion of the city contains some very hand-
some homes and residence lots and is beautifully situated; a
great number of fine houses and tasty cottages were built here
during the past 3'ear and a large number are in contemplation
for the coming season, with several now in construction. Lots
in desirable places are being rapidly taken, and no doubt the

134 IOWA LEAVES.

coming year will mark a golden era in the history of the blue
grass palace city.

PINE RIDGE DAIRY.

One mile due west of the postoffice, on Adams street, is the
elegant farm of J. B. Dyar, who operates one of the finest dairies
in southern Iowa, supplying the inhabitants of Greston and
vicinity with milk and cream of the purest quality and in any
quantity desired

Mr. Dyar established himself in this business near the
palace city about five years ago, and the whole secret of his
success lies in the fact that he always keeps the very best stock
of cows that money can buy and the superior quality of food
used, which is very essential to the making of good milk. ISIr.
Dyar is one of the substantial men of Union county and is
closely identified with the interests of the palace city.

In the extreme western portion of the city is an artificial
la.ke or reservoir, which was constructed by the Chicago, Burling-
ton & Quincy railroad company for the purpose of furnishing
a supply of. water to their mammoth shops in East Creston. The
system is a complete one, while the shops are the largest in
southern Iowa, equipped with all modern improvements known
to the art of railway engineering. So ends a description of the
palace city situated on the " crest," which was laid out very
shortly after the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railway reached
this point, building west in 1859, and a very intimate lady friend
of the author carried the chain and assisted in the driving of the
stakes that first marked the destiny of one of the best towns in
southern Iowa, her husband being at that time one of the finest
civil eno;'ineers in the west.

IOWA LEAVES. 135

AFTOX.

Afton, which hes twelve miles due east of Creston on the
main line of the ''Q/' road, is a beautiful village and commands
a fine view of the adjacent scenery, and the undulations of its
surface afford ample drainage for its wide and regularh' laid-
out streets.

The town was platted in 1S54 by E. A. Temple of Chari-
ton, who owned the town site, and was christened by his wife,
who gave it the name which is found in Tennyson''s "Flow
Gently, Sweet Afton." The county seat was located here by the
special commissioners in Februar}', 1855. The first house was
built of logs, 20x20 feet, in April, 1855, by David Fife wiio,
when the roof was half on, moved his family and a small stock
of groceries into the single room and began retailing goods.
The next house was built by Elbert H. Smith on the north half
of section 21, adjoining the town plat. Next William Collings
built a one-room plank cabin, and over the door was a shingle
with the word "Entertainment" painted on it in prominent
letters.

On September 15, 1S55, occurred the tirst public sale of
lots in Afton, the attendance being quite large, numbering over
fifty and including a number of parties from Knoxville, Osceola
and Chariton. The sale was a success, only one lot on the
pubhc square selling for less than $100. At noon the sale
was adjourned and the crowd ate dinner at the Collings House,
the bill of fare bein^- mutton, corn bread and coffee — a meal
relished by all.

The fall of 1855 found Afton in a hopeful and thriving con-
dition, quite a number of stores and buildings having been built,
the county seat located and everything indicating a bright
future

136 IOWA LEAVES.

Ill the winter of 1855-56 John C. Snow built a two-story
log hotel, which he sold in a few months to William Locke,
who hung out the sign "Afton House." INIr. Locke now
resides in Creston and is known as the pioneer of Union county,
hale and hearty at the advanced age of seventy-three.

Afton is well supplied with schools and churches and fra-
ternal societies, and is noted for the great charitableness and
hospitality of its people, who are also an educated and splendid
class of citizens of Union county.

Arispe is another pretty town, located in Sand Creek, town-
ship, three and one-half miles from the Ringold county line in
Union county.

Cromwell is situated near the west line of Union county,
about five miles west of Creston, on the "Q." road. When this
town, was laid out in 1868 it was generally supposed that it
would be the west Iowa division station of the Burling'ton &
Missouri River railroad and many invested there accordingly,
only to be disappointed by its final location at Creston.

Kent is situated on the Hopkins branch of the Chicago,
Burlington & Quincy railroad, ten miles southwest of Creston.
It is the shipping station for a thickly settled country and does
a considerable mercantile business. The town has quite a num-
ber of business houses and good schools and churches.

Lorimer is a station on the Dias^onal railroad, and is
located on section 15, New Hope township. The town plat
was recorded May 16, 1887.

Shannon City is located in Grant township, Union county,
and adjoins the Ringold county line on the Diagonal railroad.
It was laid out June 5, 1888.

Spaulding is located in Spaulding township, seven miles
from Creston, on the north branch of the Chicago, Burlington

IOWA LEAVES. 137

& Quincv railroad. A splendid stock, ha}' and grain country
surrounds it and large shipments are made from that point.

Talmage is located about four miles east of Afton and
nearly one mile north of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy
railroad. It is a station also on the Diagonal railroad, which
passes through Union count}' from Des Moines to Kansas City.
Talmage is surrounded by a fine stock-raising country.

Thayer is situated in Jones township, two miles from the
east line of the county. It is a station on the Chicago, Burling-
ton & Quincy railroad and does quite an extensive business in
shipping stock and grain.

UNION county's display IN THE PALACE OF 1890.

Union county, the home of the blue grass palace, being
endowed with a free gift of enterprise, and Creston, the county
seat, being centrally located in the blue grass regions and the
metropolis of southwest Iowa, it was decided by the Blue Grass
League (and afterward arranged with the District Fair Asso-
ciation) that the palace should be built in her section of country
on the fair grounds one mile north of the city, where it is now
permanently located on one of the prettiest sites in the state of
Iowa.

Union county occupies large space on the gallery floor of
the novel building, the handsome booth which she occupies being
divided into four lovely apartments exquisitely decorated with
all the products of her soil. A pure white pyramid forms the
central piece in the first apartment heavily fringed with a border
of blue grass and wheat, on which are exhibited elegant samples
of fruit, vegetables, grasses and grains grown in Union county,
while the side walls are completely hidden from view by
arrangements of all kinds of grains in the stock and ear, the

138 IOWA LEAVES.

whole having the appearance of a rich!}' laden field ready for
the harvest or of orchards piled full of rosy-cheeked apples,
while an elegant line of small fruits is shown in glass jars, put
up by Union's excellent housewives. The grain exhibit attracts
large crowds every day, the corn being unsurpassed in the
palace, while wheat, oats, barley, rye, millet, fiax and sorghum,
all show luxuriant growth, being exceptionally fine. The
vegetable display is grand ; cabbage heads that even the Ger-
mans regard with e3'es of env}', for the days of sauerkraut
are fast approaching; potatoes that weigh two pounds, grown
in six weeks' time in Union's fertile soil; carrots, beets,
radishes, celer}^ egg plants, tomatoes, pumpkins, cauliflowers,
squash, melons, peppers, in fact, everything grown of the vege-
table kind in this latitude are seen here forming a picture, in the
background of which is seen one of the most fertile counties in
the great west, abounding in lovely prairies and pretty groves
which have been planted and successfully raised, and which serve
for beautifying the landscape as well as protecting buildings
from the wind and sun and affording excellent shelter fOr stock.
We can see in this picture beautiful streams peacefully flowing
through all this country, affording an excellent supply of water
for hundreds of cattle which srraze on a thousand blue irrass bills

CD ~

and in lovely wooded valleys.

One portion of this booth is fenced with a pretty rustic
fence, representing a veritable blue grass pasture, in which
stands a life-size Jersey cow made entirel}^ of blue grass heads.
Near the cow is seen a milkmaid's stool, and underneath her is
a large tin pail turned over on the grass, and our eyes rest on
the creamy milk which has been spilled on the ground. This
interesting feature draws immense crowds to L^nion's elegant
apartments every day. Near the cow and pasture are repre-

IOWA LEAVES. 139

sented Union's dairy interests in firkins of rich yellow butter
and an elegant line of cheese from her manufactories. The
dairy interests of Union county are beyond competition and are
being looked after by an intelligent and wealthy class of people.
Union county is as good a butter county as there is in the state
and is known as such throughout the entire country.

A large picture made of grains of corn and all varieties of
seeds grown in this section of country forms a pretty back-
ground for the cow and blue grass pasture, and Union's dairy
interests is an old-fashioned dash churn, as perfect in form as
the old churn itself. All that is necessary to make the whole
scene complete is one of Union's pretty maids to occupy the
milkmaid's stool and one of her excellent housewives to ma-
nipulate the churn dashes.

The only parlor, bed-chamber and kitchen represented in
the palace were made by Union county ; they are very esthetic in
effect and were manipulated by the ladies of Creston and Union
county, and are a revelation. Weeks were consumed in the
work, as many as seventy-five ladies working on them at one
time, and their untiring efforts have been crowned with great
success; these ladies are certainly deserving of the many
compliments passed on them by the multitude who have visited
the great industrial exposition. The parlor is a large room
and the handsome carpet which covers the floor is made of
oats straw, and fancy-colored carpet chain; it was woven on
an old-fashioned carpet loom, is beautiful in effect and coloring
and one of the greatest curiosities ever seen.
The furnishings of this room are simply elegant, each article
being made of some product of the soil from Union county.

The beautiful drapes over the windows in this room are
made of popped corn strung on dainty threads and crossed in

140 IOWA LEAVES.

diamond shapes and from a distance have the appearance of
having been made of a soft, fleecy material, and are gracefully
drawn aside b}' cords, made of the same. The east side of this
room represents ye olden times of 1830, while the west side
bears the date of 1890. In the former the walls are of white-
washed logs, like those used in log-cabin days, giving the room
a neat and cheerful appearance. A quaint old fireplace occu-
pies a prominent position in this room and is a most novel and
interesting piece of decorative work. Over the lireplace is an
old-fashioned wood mantel, on which are three brass candle-
sticks and a pair of ancient snuffers, a clock and two winter
bouquets of autumn leaves, grasses and flowers gathered from
the trees and fields in Union County. The red brick in this fire-
place is represented b}' grains of red shelled corn and the mortar
by white grains, the whole being a complete representation of
those seen in our grand-fathers' days — even to the back-log and
crane.

Grandma sits knitting close by the fireplace,
With snowy white hair, and a smile on her face ;
Though years have passed by, yet it does not seem long
Since she rocked baby's papa to sleep with that song.

Cosil}' sleeping in a cradle of ancient pattern, completely
covered with blue grass and red and white clover blossoms, is
a lovely, innocent blue grass baby, perfectly unconscious of the
many admiring eyes resting upon her as she sweetlv dreams
upon a downy pillow of blue grass heads.

Grandma has one foot on the rocker and the cradle she swines.
And though baby slumbers, she hears what she sings.

A spinning-wheel made of oats and wheat stands in the
center of the floor, singing a happy song of the many pleasant
hours spent in this cozy cabin home. The careful housewife

IOWA LEAVES. 141

sits by clothed in a coarse suit of flax, drawino- out the Ions
silken threads from the rack above her, which wind themselves
hurriedly around the fast fl3'ing spools, the flax seen here having
been grown in Union county. This scene is a pretty picture
and greatly admired by all; even the artist's eye rests on it with
keen appreciation. Hanging on the side wall of this pictur-
esque home is a large map of Iowa made entirel}- of seeds, which
is of itself a complete revelation. The counties are represented
by millet seed, while the separating lines are formed of lettuce
seeds, and the creeks and rivers are traced by lines of cucumber
seeds, the whole being handsomely framed in a variety of small
blocks of wood, all native of Union county. This piece of ar-
tistic work has been one of the leading attractions in Union
count3''s apartments. Chairs and tables made from the prod-
ucts of Union's fields and prairies are seen in this comfortable
home and attract wide attention. Now, reader, we have looked
upon the home of 1830, let us gaze on the one of 1890.

The first object which greets the eye of the visitor in this
elegant apartment is Ceres, the goddess of grain, life size and
beautifully clothed in a combination suit of oats and wheat.
The dress is cut decollete en train., and if the ladies of our east-
ern and southern cities could look upon the magnificent beauty
and adornment of this lovely maiden a pang of jealousy would
immediately cross their hearts. An elegant necklace clasps her
shapely neck, made of solid grains of sweet corn, while the
bracelets she wears are of the same material.

She stands on a pedestal of grasses and grains, in all her
royal beauty and splendor, with a crown of blue grass inter-
mino^led with white clover blossoms on her head. In her right
hand she carries a bouquet of wheat, oats and corn tassel. This
elegant queen has come up to the blue grass palace to bow

142 IOWA LEAVES.

before the kinor of the blue o-rass re2:ion in honor of Union
county.

Near the goddess o^ grain is seen a beautiful maiden — "sweet
sixteen'' — and her elegant costume has the appearance of being
made of green cut velvet. She carries a beautiful bouquet of
cardinal flowers, gathered from the fields, in her left hand and is
a decided brunette in complexion.

When we realize that her dress is a combination of green
burs and timothy heads we are indeed surprised. This lovely
maiden is looked upon with eyes of favor by all }'oung men
matrimonialh' inclined in the blue grass regions.

In the center of this lovely apartment is a large parlor table
made of all the varieties of grains grown in the county. A
complete family made entirely of corn husks and silks occupy a
space on this esthetic table — Mr. and ISIrs. C. Husk, daughter
and son. Mr. Husk carries a satchel in his left hand, which
bears his initials, while each member of the family carries an
umbrella made of husks, the hair of each being represented by
corn silk; of course, all are red-headed. A .perfect representa-
tion of the eyes has been made of shiny grains of pop-corn.
This family is as pretty a piece of genius and skill as is displayed
in the palace.

The wheel of commerce is displayed here, showing all
grains and grasses grown in the blue grass regions as it slowly
turns round and round, while a huge bell made of oats, with a
clapper of corn, hangs suspended above it. The Indian chief.
Black Hawk, has seemingly arisen from his abode in the forest,
and has come up to the palace in the garb of civilization.
He is considerably out of his line of work, but the Great Spirit
of the universe having informed him of the great wonders of
the blue grass regions and palace, he comes forth in all his

IOWA LEAVES. 143

Indian majesty with a wheelbarrow laden with all the large,
well-matured vegetables which grow in the latitude, and pre-
sents them to the king with eloquence and pride. A piano
made entirel}' of the products of Union's loam\' soil attracts
large numbers of musicians to its side every day, being as per-
fect in form as if manufactured by J. Reed & Sons of Chicago.

A strawberry blonde gracefully occupies the piano stool,
while a dude of the same complexion leans lovingly over her
with a sheet of music in his left hand. He carries a sort of per-
suasive air about him and as we look at them we are led to
believe that she may have refused to sing for him again his
favorite song, "When the Lobsters Nest Again."

On a lovely blue grass lawn near by is a happy party piay-
ing croquet, merrily rolling the balls hither and thither, all
expectant of winning the most interesting game of the season.

Reader, will you stop for one moment and consider the
handiwork and planning which this exhibit has certainly
required in the making up and blending so beautifully of
such an elegant, elaborate and esthetic decoration? The ladies
of Creston and Union county have won fame abroad, even in
foreign countries, as being the most noted manipulators of
decorative triumph in the whole world.

We now pass from this elegant apartment to George
Washington's bedroom, immediately adjoining the parlor on
the west, where we shall note the furnishings of ye olden times.

The first object which greets our eye in this room is a
quaint, old-fashioned, high post bedstead, which would require
the aid of a step-ladder to climb into. A huge featherbed and
pair of pillows, also products of Union count}', make this bed
downy and soft, as only genuine goose feathers will. When
our eyes rest on the covering, made of old "3'aller" and red

lU IOWA LEAVES.

calico, pieced in log-chain pattern and set together with large
blocks of muslin, our great grandmother's picture comes up
before us, and when we gaze on the pure white petticoat drawn
around the bottom, all ruffled and tuffled, we melt into tears.

This is a complete representation of the bed on which the
father and mother of our country slept and dreamed the many
happy hours away, way back in old Virginia, in the long,
long ago. A washstand of ancient pattern stands in one
corner of the room, on which is a washbowl and pitcher of
colonial pottery and a winter bouquet in a blue china vase; an
old looking-glass with a picture of London bridge across the top
hangs directly over the stand, making the toilet as complete as
those seen in the early days of our countr)\ Two chairs made
of cat-tails and blue grass heads occupy prominent positions in
this room, and a braided rug of old-time pattern forms the only
covering for the floor. The curtains over the windows are
made of white beans and sweet corn woven into all conceivable
shapes and give the room a pretty finish. Reader, you may
draw your own comparisons between this room and the one
occupied to-da}' by the President of our United States in the
White House at Washington, D. C. We now pass from this
novel room into an old-time kitchen, and the flrst object that
meets our e3'e is another fireplace, which has been constructed
of wood, then received a coat of tar, after which the red grains
of corn have been put on in the form of brick, while the mortar
is represented by white grains. An old-fashioned iron crane
sets in the fireplace, on which is hanging a kettle filled with
pork and cabbage (more of Union's products) boiling for the
noonday meal, while

Auld Baldwin by the ingle sits,

and the housewife is at her favorite vocation, washing the soiled

IOWA LEAVES. 145

linen of the family, and the dexterity with which her hands fly
up and down the washboard is astonishing, using at the same
time large quantities of elbow soap. Her general appearance
and attitude are the subject of much comment b}^ all visitors
to the palace. A wooden table and a few split-bottomed chairs
of the old kind and a box cupboard complete the furnishings
of this kitchen, with the exception of a few memory gems in
the shape of old keepsakes which adorn the mantel above the
fireplace and three brass candlesticks.

A low wooden cradle occupies a prominent place near the
hearthstone, of which I have almost forgotten to speak, and is
worthy of notice, containing a pair of cherubs, which are very
numerous in the blue grass regions. A small colored girl sits by
and swings the cradle while the mother washes; the curtains
over the windows in this room are made of straws strung on
threads with a red field berry between each one, forming a
very pretty and neat drapery.

It has been almost impossible for visitors to make their
way through the great crowds which have lingered in front of
these apartments every day since the opening of the great
exposition, which are the finest pieces of artistic decoration
made from the products of the soil ever placed before the
admiring eyes of people in any country under the sun; and
as we look upon the wonderful possibilities of art and nature
combined in this display, we exclaim in the language of Col.
Mulberry Sellers, "there's millions in it."

Seventeen other counties, represented in the Blue Grass
League, occupy lovely separate apartments in the blue grass
palace, and have royally responded to the call of the great
king; they came nobly forward in all the rich products of their
soil, and placed them at the feet of the chosen king of a favored

146 IOWA LEAVES.

county, who recei\'ed them in warm welcome and bestowed
upon them all the honors to which the}'' were entitled.

ADAMS COUNTY.

The next county which claims our attention on this romantic
sight-seeing journey throughout the blue grass regions and palace
is Adams, and we pass underneath her rustic sign to gaze on her
handsome quarters. Adams county has come up to the palace
in honor of the king of the blue grass regions, decorated in all
the rich products of her soil.

The queen of this county occupies a beautiful, decorated
throne in the center of this booth and is surrounded by every
beautiful thino- A^hich her wonderful soil affords. First are the
apples, luscious and tempting to the appetites of all visitors; then
peaches and pears that would make the eyes of a Californian
turn green with envy, while the excellent varieties of grapes,
plums and quinces which lie at the feet of Queen Adams are
tempting and beautiful to look upon. The display of small
fruits in glass jars, put up by the queen's servants, is simply
immense; also the elegant varieties of grain — corn from the
fertile valleys of the peaceful Nodaway river — which are viewed
with envy by farmers from less favored regions; the oats
and wheat are also of excellent quality, both in the stock and
in sacks, left open for inspection. The blue grass timothy and
clover denote luxuriant growth. The dairy interests of Adams
county are largely represented in this booth, and occupy a space
on the queen's left, with a history worthy the attention of all
visitors. In these Adams cannot be excelled in Iowa.

The display of native woods in this booth tells a story of
beautiful forests, which cast their reflections on the quiet waters
of her peaceful creeks and rivers, and also of cheap fuel for
her inhabitants.

IOWA LEAVES. 147

A limestone tree over ten feet high is one of the
most novel and interesting objects in the entire palace, the
texture, polish and finish of w^hich is beautiful, and w^as made
by Shaffer Bros, of Corning, county seat of Adams county,
who make a specialty of rustic monuments. The trunk of
this seemingly model tree of the forest has been shorn of its
leaves and branches and the carvings are as natural as the
bark itself; the smooth surfaces where the large limbs have been
removed are left for inscriptions. This handsome piece of
Avork has attracted thousands to the Adams county booth since
the opening of the great industrial exposition, and was placed
in the Ottumwa coal palace by the blue grass region exhibitors,
where it was admired by tens of thousands; it rests to-day in
one of Des Moines' silent cities of the dead, having been seen
and admired by a citizen of that city while at the coal palace,
who purchased it to mark the resting-place of some loved one.

The limestone quarries from which this stone was taken in
Adams county are very valuable and immediately adjoin the
city of Corning, almost within her corporate limits; they are
inexhaustible, and a ledge of pure sandstone has just been
discovered. The brick on exhibition are also manufactured at
Corning and of excellent quality ; also abundance of sand and
lime, which make building cheaper in this county than anywhere
else in the state.

Corning, the county seat of Adams county, is situated in
the heart of the blue grass regions of southwestern Iowa and
on the main line of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad ;
it is one of the most prosperous and enterprising towns in this
section of countr}', containing 2,000 inhabitants, and has a fine
system of waterworks, furnishing an adequate and constant
supply of pure spring water; erected at a cost of $20,000.

148 IOWA LEAVES.

It has also a splendid Westinghouse electric light plants
furnishing beautiful incandescent lights to its citizens at low-
rates, lighting its streets and squares. It has a city hall and a
splendidly equipped fire department and two beautiful public
parks. Corning has one of the handsomest court-houses in
the west, while the public school system cannot be excelled in
the state, and an academy of higher grade furnishes unsur-
passed educational facilities. It has flourishing churches rep-
resenting nearly all the denominations, and nearly all the frater-
nities have successful lodges.

Corning is indeed one of the most beautiful and picturesque
cities in the west, and is the center of wealth, culture and
refinement, Christian influence and educational advantages of
the best part of the finest state of the Union. It is also a
city of beautiful homes and its wooded hills overlooking the
peaceful Nodaway valley are covered with pretty residences
and tasteful cottages.

Corning is a first-class trading point and ships large
quantities of stock compared with its population. It is the best
business town on the line of the "Q.'" railroad in her section of
the country, and among the best in southwestern Iowa. It has.
many advantages for manufacturers, and no town in western
Iowa can offer such inducements for their establishment. It is
a live, energetic, wide-awake, enthusiastic cit}-; has no croakers
nor grumblers nor dry goods box loafers. All disappeared
since the blue grass boom and are being replaced by mechanics.

Corning has the largest tributary territory for country
trade of any county seat on the main line of the Chicago, Bur-
lington & Quincy in Iowa.

The crops have never failed in Adams county, while its
grazing facilities are unsurpassed. It has large coal beds, fur-

IOWA LEAVES. 149

nishing cheap fuel; it has the best building stone, limestone and
sandstone in the state, and building sand in abundance, and
manufactures the best lime, brick and tile.

The valleys of the Nodaway river are unsurpassed in the
world for fertility and the pastures and meadows are unrivaled;
her soil never wears out and is the deepest in the world. In
1S89 the corn crop was 12,813,272 bushels; wheat crop, 331,422
bushels; oats crop, 255,790 bushels; hay crop, over 100,000
tons. Her potatoes were selected to represent the state at
the Paris International Exposition, which shows that Iowa
fruit stands first in the Union. For four consecutive years
Adams county took first prize at the state fair on her apple
exhibit.

Adams county has just reason to be proud of the excellent
display she has made in the blue grass palace of 1890, and
the king, as he looks upon her beauty and magnificent adv^an-
tages, kindly invites her to the fruit and grain festival of 1891.

MONTGOMERY COUNTY.

Reader, we will pass now into Montgomery's landed estate,
which touches Adams county on the east, Pottawattamie and
Cass on the north. Page on the south and Mills on the west.

Montgomery is a large name and she governs a great
country; she has come up to the palace in chariots of gold,
loaded down with all the products of an elegant soil. Large
space is required in which to make her exhibit, and, as the king
recognizes this fact, she is given commodious quarters near the
main entrance, where she is viewed by thousands.

This booth is adorned with great genius, the ceihng and
side walls being completely hidden from view by thatched
grasses and grains and having the appearance of inverted

150 IOWA LEAVES.

tields of golden grain, or of verdant pastures and meadows
filled with blossoms of the red and white clover. A pyramid
of cream shelving contains the fruit exhibit, which is a most
excellent one; its varieties of apples, peaches, pears, plums,
grapes and quinces, with a fine display of small fruits in glass
jars put up by Montgomery's own domestic hands, are greatly
admired by all visitors.

Next are the grasses and grains grown in the county and
equal to any we have yet seen in the palace. The classic
Nishnabatona river passes entirely through this county, whose
valley is equally as fertile as that of the Nile in Eg3'pt, and
such corn as is grown in this valley every year has no equal
on the continent, large quantities of which are placed in this
booth for inspection. The stalks are the tallest and the largest
and best-filled ears seen in the palace come from the Nishna-
batona valley in southwestern Iowa.

The displays of oats and wheat, barley, rye, flax and millet
are also of excellent quality. Blue grass, timothy and clover,
both in the stalk and in sacks, denote luxuriant growth in
Montgomery's favored section of country. Her dairy interests
occupy valuable space and we look upon jars of sv/eet butter
and rich, creamy cheese — a charming picture for those who
love to dwell on the everyday articles of life.

Montgomery certainl}' has no rival in the palace in the
products of the dairy, while Iowa leads all the states in the
Union in creameries and cheese manufactories.

The display of native wood from timber in this county,
along the banks of the lovely Nishnabatona river and Walnut
creek, is astonishing, and as we linger around this elegant
display our mind wanders back to the old home and wood fire-
place, where the happiest days of our lives were spent and

IOWA LEAVES. 151

v/here the children of the pioneers of Iowa studied their spell-
ing lessons in the long winter evenings by the light of a crack-
ling fire. We can almost hear the wood crackle now as it
burns and see the sparks fly upward. Abundance of timber in
this county affords cheap fuel for Montgomery's numerous
inhabitants.

Large quantities of brick, stone, tile and sand are also on
exhibition, which speak of cheap building material in that sec-
tion of country.

Let us turn our attention now to the artistic display.
First we notice a miniature house, the pattern of which has
been taken from one of Montgomery's favored citizens, Gothic
in style and architecture, and is surrounded by a beautiful blue
grass lawn with graveled walks leading down to the front gate,
bordered on either side with lovely flowers all in bloom, which
send their sweet fragrance over Montgomery's beautiful apart-
ment. Small fountains are seen prettily playing on this lawn,
sprinkling the grass with tiny sprays, which sparkle and dance
in the merry sunshine. This beautiful house and grounds are
typical of those seen in Montgomery's cities and villages, and
draw large crowds to her booth in the palace ev^ery day.
As we look on the four "pigs in clover" we laugh outright,
for we see a miniature pigpen made of logs and set over a
large square of rich blue grass sod, containing four thrifty-look-
ing pigs, natural as life and made of large Irish potatoes.
This one feature alone tells a wonderful story of Montgomery's
hog profits.

We next notice a box filled with the purest white sand
we have ever seen, which was taken from Montgomery's sand
pits, while the words " Red Oak" and "Valisca" run down
the center, written in letters of blue grass.

u
<

l-H

>
Pi

l-H

IOWA LEAVES.

153

Red Oak is the county seat of Montgomery county, beau-
tifully situated on the main line of the Chicago, Burlington &
Quincy railroad, or Blue Grass route, and also on the eastern
bank of the peaceful Nodaway river and contains 4,000 inhabit-
ants ; it is a thriving, prosperous city and its business men are
endowed with a due allowance of grit and energy, carrying
at all times a sort of "get-up-and-get-there" air about them,
always on the alert for something advantageous to their city and
county • therefore, their city has been of rapid and solid growth.

A FARM RESIDENXE IN MONTGOMERY COUNTY.

Elegant brick blocks adorn the streets, while handsome resi-
dences are scattered throughout the residence portion of the
city. Fine churches, with tall spires reaching above as if try-

154 IOWA LEAVES.

ing to grasp the tiny clouds which float o^er them, are struct-
ures of which Red Oak is justly proud. Elegant school build
ings are seen in every ward and Red Oak is also proud of her
educational interests.

The Red Oak Medical and Surgical Sanitarium has a fine
location in this city, having been opened on June 26 last; it is a
beautiful and commodious building and fast coming into favor
with man}^ citizens in the great west.

A beautiful court-house is in. course of construction, which
when finished will be the most elegant county building in the
great northwest.

Red Oak is a great business center for a large tributary
territory and all classes of business are represented here neces-
sary in supplying the masses of the same. The Chicago,
Burlington & Quincy railroad passes through the city entire
from east to west, with branches running north and south,
each through a rich stock country.

Montgomery is certainly rich in her possessions, being
noted for having the most beautiful and fertile farming region
in the state, while her farmers are composed of an honest, indus-
trious and zealous class, who till the soil and earn their living
by the honest sweat of the brow; and as they turn up the soil
their mind's eye sees fields of waving golden grain which they
are sure to reap and cornfields laden with full round ears ready
for the fall gathering. The grain, stock and dairy shipments
foot up large sums in this county every year, hundreds of cars
of the same being shipped forth to feed the people of the old
world as well as those of the new. Valisca, Stanton, Coburgh
and Elliott are all flourishing towns in Montgomery county.

After the golden grains of 1891 have been garnered and all
the products of a rich soil have been gathered together, the

w
z

M
H

<
o
<

b
Z

O
X

156 IOWA LEAVES.

harvest past and the summer ended, we can see Montgomery
in the distance loading up the golden chariot with the good
things of her land and wending her way to the palace city of
Creston, where she will place them in the king's elegant palace,
built and decorated from the products of Iowa's rich soil.

Come on, Montgomery, and pass a few days of recreation
and pleasure where the farmers of the blue grass regions meet
together and talk over the prices of stock and grain, the crops
and whom they will run for their next president ; where mer-
chants meet and compare prices on goods, each one, by the
way, giving a thrilling account of how the McKinley bill has
affected him and the ups and downs of a business life. The
grain merchant mingles with the stockshipper and the artist
clasps hands with the architect ; the poet walks with the people
and old ladies exchange garden seeds, old gentlemen bet on
the races and young ladies — bless their hearts ! — draw compari-
sons between the style of bonnet and dress worn by their sisters
last year to the palace and those worn this — all mingling in
one great delighted throng of eager, anxious, interested guests,
admiring the beautiful decorations in the blue grass palace
of 1 09 1.

"queen mills."

If the reader will consent to accompany us still farther on
this interesting journey through the blue grass regions and
palace, we will with pleasure introduce you now to the fairest
queen among them all, who reigns supreme over a section of
country that lies between Fremont and Pottawattamie and
whose fertile valleys on the west lie along the great Missouri
river, while Montgomery joins hands with her on the east.

Queen Mills has come up to the blue grass palace glori-
ously arrayed in all the products of a fertile soil and the king

IOWA LEAVES. 157

assigns Iier one of the most favorable locations within his
elegant domicile; she is at home to the people of her own
county and to all strangers from other lands who may be at-
tracted to her magnificent apartments.

The first object of beauty which meets our gaze as we
enter this booth is the ceiling decorations of the different varie-
ties of grasses grown in Mills county, blue grass predominat-
ing largely in the make-up. And the side walls are covered
with all the grains of the stock grown in the county — corn, oats,
wheat, barley, rye, millet and flax, mingled with tall hazel
bushes, hanging full of hazel nuts.

Lonff tables are rans^ed down the center of this eles^ant
booth spread with cream muslin, on which is arranged a fine
display of fruits from prolific orchards in her section of country.
If there is one thing more than another which Queen Mills dotes
on, it is her fruit farms, which are the finest and most product-
ive in the west, hundreds of acres being devoted to the cultiva-
tion of apples, peaches, pears, grapes, plums and all the varieties
of small fruits, which yield large returns every year. A fruit
farm in Mills count}", Iowa, is the same to the owner as a rich
gold mine is to a Californian. The John Y. Stone fruit farm, one
mile north of Glenwood, has several hundred acres alone in the
cultivation of apples and small fruits. L. A. Williams, one mile
east of Glenwood, has about 200 acres in orchards and seventy-
five varieties of apples are shown on the tables in this booth
from the same. James A. Record also makes a fine display
of fruits from his elegant fruit farm near Glenwood and fine
exhibits are made by numerous other beautiful and bearing
orchards in Mills county. The tables fairly groan in this booth
with their burdens of all the choice fruits in season and a most
elegant line of canned goods put up by the queen's household.

1D8

IOWA LEAVES.

What a magnificent festival! Even the king is dehghted as he
looks upon the excellent display of fruits which Queen Mills has
made in the palace of 1890. He invites the lords of the British
Isles and all those living in other lands and people in our "ain
countree" to look upon this magnificent festival.

The next prominent feature is the grain exhibit, and we
are informed by the pleasant commissioner that the large, full
matured ears of corn on exhibition were grown in the fertile

HON. JOHN T. stone's FRUIT FARM.

valleys of the picturesque Nishnabatona river, which flows
through this county. The wheat, oats, barle}^ rye, millet and
fiax denote a wonderful growth, while the blue grass, timothy
and clover tell an interesting story of her luxuriant meadows
and pasture lands.

Next are the queen's dairy interests, represented by jars of
pure, sweet, golden butter, and excellent cheese is shown from
numerous manufactories in Mills county; judging from the
quality of each. Queen Mills cannot be excelled in the west
in her dairy interests and large shipments of the same are being
made from her section of country at all seasons of the year.

IOWA LEAVES.

159

The display of native woods from timber along the banks
of her creeks and rivers is of excellent variety and quality;
they afford cheap fuel for her inhabitants. A valuable quality
of building stone from her quarries, brick and tile from her
manufactories, with abundance of sand, denote that Mills is well
supplied with cheap building material. In the esthetic display
we notice a Chinese pagoda, made entirely from the products of
Mills county soil. From each corner hang many loopings
and streamers of fancy colored ribbons. Underneath this
unique piece of work is a stand made of the varieties of grasses
CTrown in Mills county, intermine^led with all the beautiful leaves
and flowers of autumn. An open register lies on the table and
all visitors are kindly asked to register their names upon its
pages; as we seat ourselves in a lovely rustic chair, made of
the products of the soil, and write our names, we almost wish
that we might call Mills our "ain countree."

Near this pagoda is seen an extensive line of canned
goods from the Glenwood canning factory, which was organ-
ized in 1883, with Wm. A. Anderson president, Geo. Michel-
wait vice-president and D. L. Heinshimer secretary and
treasurer.

It was supposed the reputation of Glenwood's canned goods
was due to the superior processing by its first superintendent,
as after the first year the goods brought better prices than any
other canned in the west. But as they are now working with
the third superintendent, who was entirely unacquainted with the
others' methods and processing, we find always the same fine
flavor and quality of the goods, which command the highest
prices in the markets. Of course, always requiring a very
careful selection of good goods they have come to the con-
clusion that the superiority of the Glenwood canned goods is

160 IOWA LEAVES.

due mainly to the soil, as the first superintendent was an ex-
cellent one, and has not been able to produce goods since be-
comino^ associated with other factories that would command
the prices which this factory has received and maintained since
the first 3'ear's production.

The method of procuring tomatoes, which is the main ex-
hibit in the palace, and also the main work of the factory, is by
contracting with farmers for certain numbers of acres, generally
ranging from one to twelve apiece; total, 250 to 400 acres
every year; average product from 100 to 700 bushels per acre.
The season of 1890 was a poor one all over the west, but the
yield in Mills county was over double per acre that of the
Plattsmouth factory (eight miles from Glenwood) and other
factories in the west, and as far as we have learned was greater
than any other factory in Iowa or Nebraska, which shows that
the Glenwood canning factory can produce quantity as well as
quality; its pack for 1889 was about 32,000 dozen cans of
tomatoes and the same number of cans of apples. The goods
from this factory make a beautiful and valuable exhibit in the
queen''s lovely apartments and are admired by thousands.

Among the novel exhibits in this booth are two wild
animals, representative of Mills county as she was in earl}^
days; one is a large timber wolf, which was caught in the
Missouri river bottom, and the other a ferocious looking wild
cat from the bluffs along the same. These rare curiosities are
viewed with astonishment by those people living in our eastern
states.

Glenwood, the county seat of Mills county, is situated on
the main line of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad and
is one of the most beautiful and picturesque towns in south-
western Iowa, as it seemingly nestles cosily among the hills and

IOWA LEAVES.

161

valleys, beneath the spreading branches of native forest trees.
The business blocks in this city are mostly of solid brick and
will compare favorably with those in other towns of its size,
while the merchants are an enterprising, energetic and liberal
class of citizens. All classes of business are carried on here
which is necessary to supply the wants of the large territory of
surrounding country.

The state institution for feeble minded children has a fine
location at Glenwood, and the buildings of the same are all of

COURT-HOUSE, GLENWOOD.

solid red brick with handsome limestone trimmings, the interior
finish being of hard southern pine; it is equipped with all
modern improvements. An excellent view of the town of
Glenwood and the beautiful surrounding country is had from
the veranda on the fourth floor of this building and also of
the fine farm property of the institution, which consists of 400
acres of excellent farming land, all in a high state of cultivation ;

162 IOWA LEAVES.

especial care is given to the cultivation of fruit, there being
over 2,000 growing apple trees (one-half bearing fruit), 3,000
bearing grapevines, 3,000 bearing raspberry bushes, 8,000 bear-
ing blackberry bushes, a large number of cherry trees and
several thousand currant and gooseberry bushes.

The following figures partially indicate the amount of labor
done on the farm and in the garden during the past year:
One hundred and fifty-five bushels of beans, 1,1 11 heads of cab-
bages, 1,252 dozen of cucumbers, 250 bushels of onions, 145
bushels of peas, 391 bushels of tomatoes, 140 bushfels of rutabagas,
1,953 dozen of sweet corn, 255 bushels of beets, 21,000 radishes
and 3,734 pounds of broom corn* in the dairy ic.234 gallons of
milk have been consumed.

The brick yard has been a remunerative and interesting
addition to its industries. Ten kilns burned last year in all
about 228,000. This year a kiln of 110,000 is at present ready
for fire. This work is principally done by boys, there being
only two men employed as managers. The shoe shops also
continue an industrious and remunerative department; 578
pairs of boots and shoes were made last year and 1,572 repairs.

What a grand institution the state of Iowa has placed at
the disposal of the poor unfortunates within her borders ! The
buildings throughout have an appearance of order and neatness,
and the superintendent and matron, Mr. and Mrs. F. M. Powell,
who have been at the head of this institution for years, are per-
fectly adapted to the positions they so nobly and honor-
ably fill in the management and the caring of the inmates,
many of whom are feeble in mind as well as in body.

Mills county is noted for the excellent quality of her soil,
the abundant harvests she reaps every year of all the grains
grown in this latitude, her luxuriant meadows and fine blue

IOWA LEAVES. 163

grass pastures and last, but not least, as being the finest stock
country under the sun, unusually large shipments of the same
being made from this section every year. The lovely valleys
of the beautiful Nishnabatona river and Keg creek, which flow
through the county, furnish excellent pasturage for cattle and
horses the year round in moderate seasons, while the streams
furnish them abundance of pure water.

The Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, or Blue
Grass route, passes through this county from east to west
and the Wabash from north to south, with the Kansas City,
St. Jo & Council Bluffs passing entirely through the extreme
western portion, affording excellent shipping facilities for all
her inhabitants. The drainage of the land in this section is
fine, being high enough to escape wet seasons, while the peculiar
quality of the soil is such that crops are little affected by
drouth. Her people are an educated, industrious and aristo-
cratic class, and widely known for their hospitality.

Mills for fine farms, comfortable homes, prolific orchards,
excellent vegetables, native timber, lovely rivers, fertile valleys,
thriving villages, elegant railroad facilities, and the largest
stock, grain, fruit and dairy shipments in the great west.

Queen Mills has carried off high honors by the excellent
exhibits she has made before the noted king of the favored
blue grass regions, having been admired by thousands of
visitors to the blue grass palace.

Malvern, Hastings, Hillsdale and Pacific Junction are all
thriving towns in this county. As an illustration of her fruit
farms, w^e give the following, taken from the MsiWevn Leader :

" W. R. TroUet, near Malvern, has an orchard of 3,000
apple trees, which bore him a crop of 7,000 bushels of apples
(5,000 bushels of prime marketable fruit and 2,000 bushels of

164 IOWA LEAVES.

an inferior grade), that were sold for immediate home con-
sumption or made into cider and applebutter. The crop
brought him the snug sum of $4,500. His winesaps that bore
returned him $500 an acre and his Janets $250 an acre. The
entire 3,000 trees occupy but forty acres of land, the returns
therefore being over $100 an acre."

Mills county is rapidly becoming a great orchard and
many trees are being set every year. Mr. Seth Macy, of the
Iowa State Register.^ who recently made a trip through
southwestern Iowa, mainly on the line of the Chicago, Bur-
lington & Quincy railroad, brings glowing reports of that
section. " The half has never been told," he said, while talk-
ing over his trip. " I never saw a prettier country. Around
Glenwood I found hundreds of acres in orchards and all of them
doing well. The fruit-raisers of this section are going to make
thousands out of their apples. They are near Council Bluffs
and Omaha markets and find ready sale for all they can raise..
The dealers come upon the ground and contract for the
fruit at so much a bushel. I found that any quantity had been
disposed of at $1.00 a bushel for good apples.

"The fruit belt — that is, the strip of country best fitted for
fruit raising — is not a wide one. Glenwood seems to be pretty
near the center of it. It is on a high ridge and well timbered.
The success of fruit trees here is due to the composition of the
soil. The trees which I saw, and I saw thousands of them, big
and little, were all in splendid condition, healthy and bearing
liberally of the very best kind of fruit. I spent some time at
the fruit farm of Attorney-General Stone and found him to be
one of the largest and most successful growers in that section.
He has hundreds of acres in fruit trees. The attornev-general
is quite as much farmer as lawyer.

IOWA LEAVES. 165

"The more I saw the more I kept saying to the people,
why don't 3^ou advertise the advantages of your soil and dimate?
Cahfornia cannot beat what you have here. The most stupid
thing is that hundreds of homeseekers have passed through this
beautiful region of southern Iowa and never found out what a
good country it is. I told every man that I met that the people
ought to boom the country, or rather make the world acquainted
with the advantages of the region in which they live. I was so
charmed with what I saw that I wanted to turn farmer at
once. I saw a constant succession of thrifty orchards with
rosy-cheeked apples on the trees, and, if possible, rosier apples
heaped upon the ground.

" Thousands of pickers were at work gathering the fruit.
Men, women and children were preparing the abundant crop
for the market. The orchards were so many thrifty spots, sur-
rounded by native timber in all the glory of autumn coloring.
If I had to live anywhere but in Des Moines, I would live in
the blue grass regions that I have just visited, raise fruit, grow
rich and die happy. The fact is becoming more and more
patent that the people who live in Iowa have everything to be
thankful for. The country that lies between the two great rivers
of the continent — the Missouri and the Mississippi — is the best
the Creator ever made. It is the Eden of the new world and
will become the granary of the nation. The fact is beginning
to dawn on all that this is so."

When the blue grass carnival of 1891 is thrown open to
the world in August next, no doubt the fairest queen among the
entire eighteen counties comprising the blue grass regions of
southwestern Iowa will come forth to the palace, where she
will be received with cheers resounding throughout the whole
state.

16G IOWA LEAVES.

FREMONT COUNTY.

Just across the line from Mills county on the south is Fre-
mont, which forms the entire southwest corner of the great state
of Iowa. The western border of this county lies along the bank
of the big, muddy Missouri, while Page looks on her with great
favor from the east. Fremont has come up to the palace with
all the pomp and splendor of a great nation to worship at the
shrine of her devoted admirer, King Blue Grass, to become better
acquainted with her neighboring counties in southwestern Iowa
and to mingle with strangers from other lands that all may
learn of her great resources. Her excellent exhibit has been
arranged in commodious quarters, and so esthetic and unique
are her elegant decorations that the eyes of all visitors are fairly
charmed as they gaze on her magnificent array of decorative
triumph.

Fremont has come up to the blue grass carnival with the
full expectation of carrying off first honors, and as we gaze on
the great taste, genius and skill manifested in her apartment
we are led to believe she is worthy of them.

The ceiling of this booth is completely hidden from view
by exquisite arrangements of corn in the stock, wheat and oats,
while the side walls are covered with all the grains and grasses
grown in Fremont county. Long tables are ranged in rows
down the center of the booth spread with rich linen, on which
are exhibited fine samples of all the luscious fruits from her
orchards and prolific berry patches. These fruits are served on
decorated China plates and such an array as is set before the
king and his favorite subjects has never been witnessed in any
other country on the continent.

Vegetables of every kind grown in our latitude are piled
up in heaps underneath the tables, elegant in variety and quality,

IOWA LEAVES.

167

which tell a wonderful story of Fremont's rich soil. Near by
are sacks filled with all the varieties of grain grown in the
county — corn, oats, wheat, barley, rye, millet, flax, broom
corn, timothy, clover and blue grass seed. Corn, oats and wheat
are also shown in the stock, being the finest exhibit in the palace.
Fremont's dairy interests are largely represented; and such
butter! even the king himself acknowledged the compliment of
Fremont having placed such elegant butter before him. And
such cheese! " Western reserves" are nowhere when compared
with the cheese manufactured in Fremont county.

Seventy-six varieties of wood, all natives of this beautiful
section, were placed hereby a student of the noted Tabor College,
which is located in the northern portion of Fremont county, and
the display of fine arts, which take up one whole side of this
lovely apartment, is made by this same college, and attracts the
attention of every visitor to the blue grass palace, crowds
lingering around it every day.

There are people in the eastern and southern states, per-
haps, who would hardly believe, could they see them, that these
elegant paintings were executed by the students of Tabor Col-
lege in the west. But the blue grass regions of Iowa can boast
of as skilled artists as are found anywhere in the United States,
either in crayon, oil, water or pastel. If you don't believe it,
come out to the blue grass palace of 1891 and see the excellent
showing made by Tabor College in the fine art gallery and by
numerous other master artists of Iowa.

The silk culture is represented in this booth by an interest-
ing display of creamy silk cocoons, a part of which has been
unwound, showing forth an excellent quality of silk.

A complete line of artistic furniture is shown in the eastern
portion of the booth, representing a parlor furnished entirely

168

IOWA LEAVES.

with rustic furniture, every piece having been made of some
product of the soil. Chairs, tables, sofas, swings, cradles, etc.,
all arranged with the same excellent taste as is displayed by
the careful housewife in Fremont's happy homes.

On each side of the entrance to this booth are the tallest
stalks of corn seen in the palace — from twelve to fifteen feet

COUNTY COURT-HOUSE,

high and grown in the fertile valleys of the beautiful Nishna-
batona river.

Fremont has, without a doubt, the most elaborately deco-
rated booth in the palace of 1890; therefore, when the king's
judges are sent forth to decide on the most excellent exhibit
they will wisely and justly place the blue ribbon on Fremont.

IOWA LEAVES. 169

Sidney is the county seat of Fremont county, situated on
the Sidney branch of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy raih-oad,
which traverses the county entire from northwest to southeast,
while the Kansas Cit}^ St. Jo & Council Bluffs penetrates the
extreme western portion, affording excellent shipping facilities.

Sidney is a beautiful village almost in the center of the
county, where all classes of business are represented necessary
in supplying the wants of a large tributary country, while Far-
ragut and Riverton, on the Red Oak branch of the "Q.," are
flourishing towns. Tabor, on the Tabor & Northern railroad,
is also a beautiful town of lovely homes and has one of the best
colleges in the state, which is patronized by many citizens of
Iowa.

Fremont is a good stock country and large shipments of
the same are made from her section of country at all due sea-
sons of the year. Fremont has become famous to shippers and,
in fact, is one of the greatest stock countries in the west. Lake
Wahagbonsy, which lies below Bartlett and near McPaul, a
short distance from the Kansas City, St. Jo & Council
Bluffs railroad, affords excellent facilities for hunting and
fishing. Those who are in search of permanent homes in
the west would do well to investigate Fremont's excellent
soil and climate, her superb railroad and educational facili-
ties and her hospitable, enlightened and Christian citizens,
who royally receive all strangers who may wish to cast
lots with them in the wonderful blue grass regions of south-
western Iowa.

Fremont, you have certainly won fame abroad by your
excellent exhibit in the palace of 1890 and don't fail to again
make a showing in the palace of 1891; come prepared to
secure first prize.

170 IOWA LEAVES.

PAGE COUNTY.

And it came to pass in those palace days that the king of
the blue grass regions looked with great favor upon a count}'
called Page, one of the most fertile sections among the entire
ninety and nine counties in Iowa, whose people under his reign
are prosperous and happy; the luxuriant growth of all the prod-
ucts of her soil is marvelous.

Page county lies due east of Fremont, south of Mont-
gomery and Vv'est of Taylor in the extreme southern tier, join-
ing the state of Missouri on the south; no county has greater
advantages, which fact is fully demonstrated by her exhibit
in the blue grass palace. She has come forth to make her
obeisance to King Blue Grass and display her wonderful re-
sources before a vast multitude. She occupies a very favorable
location on the gallery floor of the beautiful building, where
her attractions are indeed numerous.

In the center of this booth is a pyramid of steps, covered
with cream cheese-cloth, on which are arranged elegant samples
of all the fruits grown in her section of the country. We see
here over seventy-five varieties of large, round, luscious red
and yellow apples, delicious in flavor; in fact, such apples as
are only grown in Page county. The display of peaches, pears,
grapes and plums, and an elegant line of small fruits in glass
jars, speak volumes for the cultivation of fruits in her section,
for which her soil is admirably adapted.

The displays of grains and seeds, both in the stalk and in
open sacks, are very flne and compare favorably with any we
have yet seen on our rounds through the palace. Blue grass,
timothy and clover denote luxuriant growth and tell a large
story of waving meadows and verdant pastures. The vege-
tables are ranged in rows below the grain exhibit, showing

IOWA LEAVES. 171

forth the wonderfully productive quality- of Page county soil.
Cabbage heads, larger than wooden pails, beets, carrots, onions,
potatoes, parsnips, beans, egg-plants, squashes, pumpkins,
tomatoes, etc. — ever}^ known vegetable which can be grown
successfully in the latitude is seen here.

Near-by are represented her dairy interests ; jars of pure,
sweet butter and excellent cheese from numerous cheese manu-
facturers in the county are shown, and open for sampling; we
pronounce them elegant and unsurpassed in the palace. If the
citizens of the eastern and southern states could look upon the
dairy interests of Page county, represented in this booth, in
the famous blue grass regions, at Creston, Iowa, they would
certainly bid adieu to home and friends and seek a home in this
section of the country,

Where excellent blue grass pastures reign
Along the bank of pure fresh streams,

and engage in the butter and cheese industry. Near the dairy
interests are shown fifty varieties of native woods from along
the banks of the classic Nodaway and East and West Tarkio
rivers. This is a beautiful exhibit, indicative of cheap fuel and
lovely landscapes.

Clarinda, the county seat of Page county, is situated on
the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, or Blue Grass
route; it is a beautifully located city and full of prosperity and
energy. All classes of business which are necessary to supply
a large and wealthy territory tributary are successfully carried
on here. The buildings in the business portion of the city are
neat and mostly of brick, comparing favorably with those of
other cities in southwestern Iowa, while the merchants are
composed of men who are very enterprising and liberal, and
are, therefore, a prosperous class.

172

IOWA LEAVES.

Good schools and churches of all denominations find a per-
manent home in Clarinda; neither is she unmindful of her edu-

COURT-HOUSE, CLARINDA.

cational interests in the country surrounding, for neat school-
houses are seen in every district, with cosy furnishings and

IOWA LEAVES. 175

every convenience for the development of the mind and body.
The new State Insane Asylum occupies a handsome location
near this city, with beautiful grounds and equipped with all
modern improvements, the fine farm in connection being entirely
devoted to agriculture.

The Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad traverses
this county from north to south, while the Wabash & St.
Louis passes through from northeast to southwest, affording
excellent shipping facilities. Page county is noted for the fertil-
ity of its soil, which grows luxuriant crops every year, while
hundreds of cattle graze in all seasons of the year on her
elegant blue grass pastures. The stock shipments from her
section are equal to any in the west ; in fact, the number of
cars of cattle, hogs, sheep and horses shipped from this region
to other markets over the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy and
Wabash railroads in the last few years tells a wonderful story
of her stock industr}'.

Certainly Page county is rich in all the golden shekels
which she has placed before the king in the blue grass palace,
rich in her soil and in her scenery, rich in coal, wood and stone,
rich in elegant farms and a kind, hospitable and charitable
people. Page is rich in cattle and fine horses and also rich in
all the many advantages which go toward making her one of
the very best counties in the noted blue grass regions of th-sou
western Iowa. Shenandoah, in the extreme western portion of
the county, is a beautiful city of lovely homes, costly churches
and pretty school buildings and one of the best canning factories
in the west.

The name of Page is being repeated over large territories
of a great country, and as the season of 1891 rolls on and she is
blessed again with beautiful crops and full barns, we can see her

174

IOWA LEAVES.

coming up to the blue grass palace, forming the richest jewel
in the casket among the entire eighteen.

HIGH SCHOOL, CLARINDA.

TAYLOR COUNTY

Reader, will you accompany us still farther on the rounds
of the famous blue grass palace? There are many other beau-

IOWA LEAVES 175

tiful and interesting places to visit and among them is the Tay-
lor county display, in which 3'ou will love to linger, for this wig-
wam is one of the most beautiful and elaborately decorated ones
in the palace.

Taylor county lies due east of Page, west of Ringgold and
south of Adams, joining the state of Missouri on the south, and
occupies a territory twenty-four miles square and about fifty
miles east of the Missouri river. Her elesfant booth in the
palace is the iirst one to the right of the main entrance and
occupies large space, and when we enter the magnificent apart-
ment we are seemingly enraptured with the many beautiful
scenes surrounding us. The first object which greets the eye is
a castle, const^-ucted entirely of the products of the soil, the
architecture being of the latest Queen Anne pattern, with long,
low Gothic windows of stained orlass lookins: out over a beauti-
ful blue grass lawn, on which numerous fountains are seen send-
ing forth the tiniest of sprays, which glisten like thousands of
diamonds in the sunlight. On each side of the smooth graveled
walks are lovely blooming flowers, in all the different shades and
colorings, while beyond the lawn rests a tranquil lake whose
banks are fringed with beautiful flowers.

This is a picture for an artist to dwell upon, as the author
cannot do it justice in a descriptive write-up. On either side of
the castle are arranged an elegant display of fruits, vegetables,
grasses and grain, while the side walls are completely covered
with pictures made of seeds, clover heads, cornhusks, wliole
ears of corn split and sawed lengthwise and grains of corn; fig-
ures made of wheat, oats, barley, rye, millet and flax, promLient
among which is a horse, life size, made entirely of red clover
heads, which has been admired by thousands ; a sheep made of
oats and wheat heads is another attractive piece of artistic work.

176 IOWA LEAVES.

In one corner of this booth we notice a large wooden egg-
suspended by a heavy cord from the ceiHng. A small bantam
hen sits on the eocs:, while underneath is a card on which is
given an estimate of Taylor's egg shipments; the figures are
enormous, and this bantam hen has the honor of having laid
the golden nest-egg of success. The grain, fruits, grasses and
vegetables are arranged on pyramid steps and are an interesting
sight to witness, and tell a large story of the fertility of Taylor
county soil, fine crops of each being grown here every year.
Sample products of the dairy are represented in large pails
of fine, pure, sweet butter, and elegant cheese from her many
manufactories of this article. From the dairy alone Taylor
reaps large profits every year.

Taylor county is noted for its great agricultural resources
and some of the finest farming lands in the state are found here-
And she cannot be excelled in the west as a stock county.
Large shipments of cattle, hogs, horses and sheep are made
from Bedford, Gravity, New Market, Lenox and Conway, and
her dairy shipments are equal to any in the blue grass regions.
The fine nutritious grasses in this county furnish a feed for
cattle which not only fattens them but imparts to their flesh a
flavor that makes them in large demand in the eastern markets.
The milk from the cows is rich and produces the finest quality
of butter. As an instance of this we refer to the fact that the
product of her creameries, which run during the entire winter
and summer, sells readily at 35 cents per pound. The horses
produced in Taylor county are fast gaining a national reputa-
tion for their perfect development and buyers visit the different
towns in this county every day in quest of these animals to
supply the demand they have for them in the eastern and south-
ern markets.

IOWA LEAVES. 177

Sheep of the finest grade and development come also from
the blue grass pastures of Taylor county and the market in
Chicago has again and again been topped by them.

The drainage of the land in this section is fine, while
plenty of water flows through all portions of the count}^, the
peaceful Nodaway, Platte river and Honey creek, whose valleys
are teeming with a luxuriant growth of blue grass, affording
excellent pasturage for stock. About thirty-five years ago the
seed of the Kentucky blue grass was sown to some extent in
Taylor county, and it has gradually increased until it seems to
spring spontaneously from the ground, covering the pastures
and forming a beautiful rich, green coating in the timber lots,
springing up along the highways, and on the open prairies it
grows and matures in all its richness and strength. In the fall
this grass falls down into a soft mat or carpet, and under its
protection the young sprouts grow on until the ground is
frozen, and in the winter this grass affords a rich, fine feed for
the stock which the farmers of Taylor county produce in
abundance, the quality of which cannot be surpassed in the
Union.

There are ten towns in this county. Bedford is the county
seat and contains over 2,000 inhabitants; it is situated on the
Kansas City branch of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy
railroad, or Blue Grass route, which traverses her section from
northwest to southeast, while the Wabash & St. Louis, H. &
S. and Chicago, St. Paul & Kansas City lines furnish direct
communication and ample shipping facilities.

Bedford has one of the finest locations in the blue grass
regions of southwest Iowa, and is noted for being one of the best
towns in the state of its size, because through all the trials and
changes that are common to a new country and a new town the

178 IOWA LEAVES.

citizens of Bedford have never allowed tneir town to take a
backward step. No fictitious boom has overtaken it with
vacant houses, but a steady growth amply justified by the
increasing wealth of the surrounding country has always charac-
terized it. No single man or corporation has grown up to
monopolize the interest and absorb all the wealth, and thus they
have a city of comfortably well-off citizens, who, being property

COURT STREET, BEDFORD— LOOKING NORTH.

owners, are all personally interested in the success of their city.
There is not a city of the same size in southwestern Iowa
that has so many substantial brick business blocks as Bedford.
They are all neat and conveniently arranged, and having been
built close together give the street a business-like appearance
and add greatly to the appearance of this portion of

IOWA LEAVES.

179

plant
along

the city. The earl}' settlers took great care to
out innumerable fine shade and ornamental trees
the walks, which have now grown to considerable size
and spread out their heavy foliage beneath the hot
summer's sun, making a most delightful, inviting shade.
Pure water of the best quality is obtained in abundance at a
depth of from twenty to forty feet. She is free from bonded

MAIN STREET, BEDFORD — LOOKING WEST.

indebtedness, has a fine high school costing $25,000 and as tine
a city hall as can be found in the west. Pretty churches of all
denominations adorn her streets, while the public school system
ranks with any in the state; she has an excellent, well-equipped
fire company furnished with a large chemical engine and fine

180 IOWA LEAVES.

teams of horses. Within the Hmits of the corporation are fine
quarries of Hmestone, while bricks of excellent quality are
manufactured here. Bedford offers a home to the family desir-
ing an atmosphere of purity and intelligence and invites such to
come and live within her borders.

The climate is the same as is generally common to the blue
grass regions, which is sufficiently known for its healthfulness.
Here comfort, health, vigor and long life are the rule, not the
exception. The cold winter storms that sweep over other
northern countries are broken before they reach this fair county
and the growing grass and budding trees give evidence of
returning life, while the frozen soil of Dakota, Minnesota and
northern Iowa are still held in the cold embrace of winter.

Such is a brief description of Taylor county, which came
3,000 strong to the great industrial exhibition, accompanied by
the elegant Fifth Regiment band of Bedford, which discoursed
some excellent music in the beautiful auditorium during their
sojourn at the palace. It is not our intention to create a boom;
we aim to present facts, giving a truthful word picture without
coloring or exaggeration.

If this should attract the attention of any seeking homes,,
we simply ask them to examine this section of country. Men who
have the means with which to buy a farm or start in business in
one of these towns will find a country here that is beautiful to look
upon, and never fails to produce a fair crop, and has a people
noted for their intelligence and morality. To all who can appre-
ciate such advantages Taylor extends a hearty welcome.

Taylor's exhibit in the blue grass palace was an index of
what her country affords, and was admired by a multitude;
so the great king invited her to the great carnival of 1891.
We predict that she will come up to the palace city with the

IOWA LEAVES. 181

cap sheaf on top, the richest and most elaborate decoration ever
witnessed in any country under the beautiful, dazzling sun.

The following cut represents the Bedford Business College
and Institute of Shorthand, Barrett & Clark, proprietors. This
new educational institution opened its doors for the enrollment

BEDFORD BUSINESS COLLEGE,

of Students, Monda}', March 2, 1891. To date there have been
enrolled about forty students and the indications are that within
the year the enrollment will reach up in the hundreds. The
college has been fitted up by the proprietors in an elegant

182

IOWA LEAVES.

manner for the reception of students. It is certain that the
business men of Bedford did a grand thing when they secured
for their city this excellent institution and the citizens of Bed-

BEDFORD HIGH SCHOOL.

ford and of Taylor county will give it their hearty support
and co-operation. In the opening of this institution one more
laurel has been added to the educational wealth of the blue
grass regions of southwestern Iowa and we hope to see it
liberally patronized by the citizens of our state.

IOWA LEAVES. 183

RINGGOLD COUNTY.

Ringgold's fleecy curtains are drawn aside and we peer next
into her beautiful portals. We gaze first on this side of beauty
and magnificence and then on that. Ringgold is crowned in all
her richest jewels to-day, for she has come up to the palace to
share her profits and products with the great king of the blue
grass regions. She is Decatur's nearest neighbor on the west,
but not a pang of jealousy crosses her heart on account of her
sister's elaborate display in the next apartment; neither is she
the least envious of another handsome sister called Union on
the north, nor of sister Taylor on the west, and, as the great
king casts his eye over this elegant displa}^ made by Ringgold,
he breaks forth in the following enthusiasm: "Ringgold, you are
all my heart desires you to be! Come, you gifted of the land!
Come, my people, from your seclusion in the forests and gaze
upon the great display of enterprise and genius made by Ringgold
in the carnival of 1890! Look upon all these delicious fruits
and vegetables, manipulated by the hands of Ringgold's fair
sons and daug-hters. Behold this luxuriant corn in the stalk and
in the ear! a valuable product of Ringgold's loamy soil. Gaze
on the beauties of her golden grains and grasses cut from her
meadows and the blossoms of the red and white clover.

"See the elesfant blocks of wood cut from her beautiful
native forests and the huge samples of building stone from
her exhaustless quarries. Ringgold, you are, indeed, a favored
spot in the famous regions over which your people have
anointed me king. You are rich in all your many landed
possessions. Your cattle and horses graze on a thousand blue
grass hills and in all your lovely valleys, and the quiet,
picturesque streams which steal their way through your section
furnish them abundance of pure water.

184 IOWA LEAVES.

"Your railroad facilities are excellent for shipping stock and
grain, while the beautiful village of Mt. Ayr, which is your
county seat, is situated on the greatest blue grass route under
the sun. Your whole country is dotted with beautiful and
highly improved farms. Neat houses of worship and cosy
school buildings adorn each district in all the multiplied gifts
which the great Ruler of the universe has bestowed upon you,
and it seems that you have not been unmindful of your
christian duty, or your educational interests, either in the city
or country. You have come up to the palace in a most
dazzling array of splendor. Your gorgeous attire and hand-
some decorations are a revelation to a vast multitude who have
gazed on them.

"Your farms rank among the best in the state and thrift,
prosperity and comfort surround them all. After the harvests
of 1 89 1 are past and you have garnered the golden grains and
your corn is ripe in the ear, when the blue grass, timothy and
clover have dropped their seed, load up the chariot again with
all the products of your rich soil, come up to the palace, choose
a location, and adorn, decorate and embellish it that the whole
world may learn of Ringgold's landed estate."

DECATUR COUNTY.

The next county of interest that has come up to the grass
carnival in all glory, honor, profit and praise, tendering a rich
tribute to the king, is Decatur, Wayne county's western neigh-
bor, lying due south of Lucas in the extreme southern tier of
counties and east of Ringgold.

Decatur occupies a favorite booth in the palace and the
king smiles as he looks upon her excellently arranged exhibit.
Three sides of the booth are thrown open for public gaze and, as

IOWA LEAVES.

185

we look for the first time on the rich products of her soil, we
are completely dazzled, as it were, with the many beautiful
things which meet our gaze. The ceiling and side walls are

KZonBMvmfis

COURT-HOUSE, LEON.

completely covered with exquisite arrangements of corn, oats,
wheat and blue grass, while a pyramid of pure cream shelving
forms a background for the delicious fruits in season ; fine apples

186

IOWA LEAVES.

a specialty; large quantities of grapes, peaches, plums, pears and
quinces are very tempting and an elegant displa}' of small fruits

FARMERS AND TRADERS BANK, LEON.

is shown in jars, put up by Decatur's household. The grain
exhibit is fine; corn, both on the stalk and in glass jars, is looked

IOWA LEAVES. 187

upon with envious eyes by farmers from less favored sections.
Oats in the stalk and in jars, wheat, barley, millet, rye and flax
are immense. The native woods on exhibition from timber
growing along the banks of the Grand and Weldon rivers in
this county are a very interesting and novel exhibit — advantages
of cheap fuel. These streams also furnish abundance of pure
water for stock and the luxuriant growth of blue grass in these
valleys supplies ample feed for cattle and horses during the
summer and fall months or in moderate seasons the year
round.

Leon is the county seat of Decatur county, situated on the
Chariton branch of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad,
or Blue Grass route, which passes through the county from
northeast to southwest, while the Wabash & St. Louis extends
through the northern portion, affording excellent facilities for
shipping stock, grain and miscellaneous articles, which com-
mand the highest prices in other markets. The citizens of this
county are an educated and enterprising class of people, while
comfortable homes, school-houses and churches are seen on
every hand and if the stranger from other lands could look over
Decatur's great resources when the fields of golden grain are
ready for the harvest, or when the orchards are ripe with the
mellow fruits of autumn, or even when her extended prairies
are covered with a verdure of velvet green, he would certainly
wish that he might live among the kind people of Decatur
county. Leon is a lovely village and all classes of business are
established here, active in supplying the wants of a large, rich
and fertile country surrounding them. Decatur has made an
excellent showing in the blue grass carnival and her great
resources have been advertised throughout the land. Come
again, fair Decatur; you will be welcome.

o
u

pi:
<

B
E-
P

o
o
>J

a
ij

190 IOWA LEAVES.

WAYNE COUNTY.

Wa3'ne county joins lands with Appanoose county on the
east, is in the extreme southern tier, and Lucas bounds her
on the north and Decatur on the west. This county has placed
an elegant exhibit in the palace in honor of the king of the blue
grass regions, being one of the favored among the eighteen
which belong to the Blue Grass League. Wayne has come
forth to the palace loaded down with all the products of her soil
and has arranged them with great skill in one of the most con-
venient locations on the ground floor of the elegant building.
This exhibit tells a profitable story of the industr}' and wealth
which she possesses. Three sides of the booth are arranged in
the form of steps, covered with delicate cream muslin on which
are displayed elegant varieties of all the fruits in season, tempt-
ing all w^ho look upon them. From these one can imagine that
the fruit production from these regions is unsurpassed.

The display of grains, both in the stalk and in sacks, speaks
volumes for Wayne's prolific soil; corn, oats, wheat, barley,
rye, millet, llax, timothy, blue grass and clover are the chief
productions, and the samples of each displayed in this booth
are excellent in variety and quality. The vegetables are a
revelation. A complete garden patch, filled with all the well-
matured vegetables which grow in this latitude from Wayne's
fertile soil; one almost wishes they might live in this beautiful
section of country, when gazing on her fruit, vegetable and
grain exhibit.

The dairy interest is well represented in firkins of pure
butter and golden cheese ; from this one industry alone she reaps
large profits every year. The display of native wood from the
timber in this county is fine and indicates abundance of cheap
fuel for all inhabitants. The decorations of the ceiling and

IOWA LEAVES. ^^1

side walls are of corn, oats, timothy and blue grass, arranged
with pretty effect.

Corydon is the county seat of Wayne, situated on the
Wabash & St. Louis railroad, which passes through the
county from east to west, while the Chicago, Rock Island &
Pacific passes through the southern portion of the county, and
the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul also traverses her section,
affording excellent transportation and shipping facilities. This
county is noted for its mineral resources, there being ten coal
mines in operation in the county, the principal one being located
at Se}'mour — the Occidental & Co-operative Coal Company.
The vein of coal which is being operated in this county is
about two feet and a half thick and belongs to the middle
coal measures and is of good quality for domestic purposes.
The Occidental mine at Seymour is an exceedingly large one
and is doing a large shipping business. The county produced
in one year 34,000 tons of coal. Wayne county for rich soil,
healthful climate, splendid drainage, fine cattle, sheep, hogs
and horses, abundance of pure, running water, a kind, hospitable
and charitable people. Numerous school-houses and neat houses
of worship greet the eye of the traveler in every district and
when the stranger from other lands enters our state with the
intention of locating within her borders he may find all that is
desirable for a happy home in Wayne county.

APPANOOSE COUNTY.

Appanoose is the next county represented in the blue grass
palace and we ask the reader to follow us closely through this
romantic abode. You will be delighted when you gaze upon
her many natural advantages and her beautiful artistic decora-
tions. The first interesting object which greets the eye of the

192

IOWA LEAVES.

visitor is the Goddess of Liberty, clothed in a combination suit of
clover, timothy and blue grass, while the crown consists of the

COURT-HOUSE AT CENTREVILLE.

Stars and stripes and her left hand bears aloft the American
flag. This goddess gracefully stands on a pedestal constructed

IOWA LEAVES. 193

entirely of the products of the soil, in all her fair American
beauty, while on her right side is seen a large, savage-looking
wolf, a wild cat, several species of wild fowls and a card
bearing the date 1840. On the left hand are seen tame fowls,
pigs (in clover) and several sheep grazing in a pretty blue
grass pasture, and a card bearing the date 1890. This is a
picture greatly admired by thousands of visitors every day in
the palace and one from which the reader may draw his or her
own conclusions. The ceiling decorations are manipulated
with genius and skill, having been the work of fair ladies living
in Appanoose county. The side walls are entirely covered with
green corn-stalks, wheat and oats, the combination being beau-
tifully wrought.

Another valuable exhibit occupies a prominent place near
the entrance and is the largest block of coal in the palace, from
the noted Centreville mines in this county. Near it are seen
fine samples of building stone, brick and tile, also fifty-six
varieties of wood, taken from the native timber in Appanoose
county.

Let us now turn our attention to the displays of fruits,
vegetables, grasses and grains, which are equal to other dis-
plays of this kind in the palace, and are looked upon with eyes
of favor by all visitors, while the king is equally as well pleased
with their excellence in variety and quality. Appanoose makes
a specialty of fine apples and she certainly deserves great
credit in this display, with other fruits equally as fine. The
grain exhibit is an excellent one and tells plainly the composi-
tion of the soil in Appanoose county. Corn in the ear and in
glass jars, oats, rye, barley, millet, flax, etc., all denote very
heav}' growth and can be produced in large quantities yearly
in this beautiful section of country.

194

IOWA LEAVES.

Appanoose is noted also for its numerous coal beds, fine
farms, elegant blue grass pastures, fine stock, thriving villages,
numerous churches and neat district schools and as having an
intelligent and enterprising class of people. The coal which is

STANDARD COAL COMPANY, CENTREVILLE.

operated in this county is of the middle coal measures and is
two feet and a half thick; it extends with more uniformity of
thickness than the coal of any other county in the first district
and is of excellent quality for domestic purposes. There are

IOWA LEAVES. 195

thirty-three mines in the county; twelve of these have raihoad
facihties for shipping coal. The Appanoose Coal Company is
located at Cincinnati, on the Chicago, Burlington & Kansas City
railroad. There are other mines in the county that do a good
business in the winter season, but have to haul their coal to the
railroad with teams. There are five mines at Centreville that
have excellent shipping facilities. The Scandinavian Coal Com-
pany and the Centreville Coal Company are located on the
Keokuk & Western railroad. The Watson Coal Company, the
Diamond Mine No. 2 and the Standard Coal Company are
located on the southwestern branch of the Chicago, Rock
Island & Pacific railroad. The Standard mine has excellent
railroad facilities for shipping coal on the Chicago, Rock Island
& Pacific and on the Keokuk & Western railroads. The mine
at Numa, seven miles west of Centreville, on the Chicago, Rock
Island & Pacific, has facilities for shipping coal. There are
live mines at Brazil — the Walnut Coal Company, the Philb}'
Coal Compan}', the Tipton Coal Company, the Hawk Eye Coal
Company and B. F. Silknetter — either slope or drift mines and
operated with mule power. All do a shipping business on the
Keokuk & Western railroad. The vein here is about two feet
ten inches in thickness and of the lower coal measures. Two
mines here are worked on the long wall system — the Philby
mine and the Walnut mine. The others are on the room and
pillar system. The Elden mine No. 2 is located west of Cen-
treville, formerly known as the Co-operative mine, and has no
railroad facilities for shipping coal. The Diamond mine
No. I and McLard mine are located at Centreville and
do a large local business. This county produced in 1886
150,000 tons of coal; in 1887 it produced 160,351 tons,
being an increase of 10,351 tons. The mines in this county

196

IOWA LEAVES.

are prepared to largely increase their output whenever the
demand calls for it.

Appanoose, aside from her large coal beds, has as fine farm-
ing lands as are found in the state of Iowa. The shipments of
cattle, hogs and horses foot up large sums every year in her
section of country, while the dairy interests are equal to any in

WALNUT COAL COMPANY, CENTREVILLE.

the blue grass regions. The drainage is excellent and bounti-
ful harvests reward the farmer evey year for his labor.
Abundance of pure fresh water flows through these regions and
the climate is all that is desirable — neither too cold in winter
nor too warm in summer.

IOWA LEAVES.

197

Centreville is the county seat of Appanoose and is beauti-
fully situated in the center of the county on the Chicago, Rock
Island & Pacific railroad and on the Wabash & St. Louis, while
the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad passes through the
southern portion of the county. Centreville is one of the best
towns in southern Iowa and commands a large trade from a rich
surrounding country. All classes of business are established
here, while her merchants are composed of an enterpising and

DIAMOND COAL COMPANY, CENTREVILLE,

liberal class, ready at all times to furnish every advantage per-
taining to the advancement of their city and county. The
business blocks in this city are solidly built, which denotes busi-
ness prosperity, while handsome homes adorn the residence
portion. Elegant school buildings and an efficient school sys-
tem are two things of which Centreville is justly proud, while
costly churches of all denominations find a permanent home
here. The inhabitants of Centreville are an educated and

198 IOWA LEAVES.

charitable people and royally welcome all strangers who may
enter her gates, and by the elegant display in the blue grass
palace Appanoose has introduced herself to thousands of people
from other countries, who are deeply impressed, not only with
her beautiful exhibit, but also with the great natural resources
which she possesses. When the blue grass palace opens in
August next, no doubt she will come forward with a far more
elaborate display in honor of the king of the blue grass regions
than she has yet made; therefore, we kindly invite those seek-
ing homes in the great west or in the state of Iowa to look
favorably upon the many natural advantages possessed by
Appanoose count}'.

LUCAS COUNTY.

The next county which claims our attention in the blue
grass carnival is that of Lucas, situated between Monroe and
Clark, in the second tier from the Missouri line, with Marion
and Warren on the north, while Wayne joins lands with her on
the south, forming a separating line between the coal palace
regions of southeastern Iowa and the blue grass regions of the
southwest portion of our great state.

Lucas county is noted for its deep, fertile soil, which never
wears out, and for its great mineral resources, there being at
the present time thirteen coal mines in operation in the county.
The principal ones are at Cleveland, on the main line of the
Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, which affords them
excellent facilities for the shipping of coal. The products of
these mines are shipped to western Iowa and Nebraska, the
coal being of excellent quality for steam and domestic pur-
poses. The White Breast Coal company has 5,000 acres of
land between Lucas and Chariton, on the main line of the
Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad.

IOWA LEAVES. 199

The next largest mine is at Zero, on the main line of
the'* Q., "the products of which are mostly shipped to Ne-
braska. There are quite a number of smaller mines in the
vicinity of Chariton, all doing a good coal business. The
soil in Lucas county 3-ields unusually large returns to the
farmers of their section, abundant crops being grown here
every year.

The exhibit in the palace is arranged on pyramid steps,
covered with cream colored muslin, on which are skillfully
arranged flowers, fruits, grasses, vegetables and grain and all
varieties of seeds. What elegant corn they grow in Lucas!
is a common remark heard every day in the palace; we find
it to be of excellent quality and quantity, both on the stalk
and in jars, while numerous large, round, filled ears occupy con-
spicuous places throughout the whole exhibit. The displays of
oats and wheat denote prolific growth, while elegant samples of
barle}^ millet and flax are shown. The quantity and quality of
timothy, blue grass and clover seed are very fine and Lucas is
certainly very rich in her landscape, luxuriant meadows and
pasture lands. The display of fruits is a subject of much con-
versation among visitors to this elegant booth and Lucas can
certainly boast of fine orchards and vineyards. The small
fruits put up in glass jars by the fair ladies of Lucas are a sur.
prise. Blackberries, raspberries, strawberries, currants, goose-
berries and an excellent line of home-made jellies.

What a magnificent fruit production is this placed before
the admiring eyes of thousands in the blue grass palace. A
veritable "garden patch" is represented here, filled with all the
different varieties of well-matured vegetables grown in this lat-
itude, and speaks volumes for the fertility of Lucas county
soil. Cabbages, carrots, beets, turnips, onions, egg plants, pota-

200 IOWA LEAVES.

toes, squashes, pumpkins, peppers; in fact, everything in the
veocetable Hne are seen in this booth.

The pubHc schools of Chariton occupy the entire west side
with an elegant display of school work, which tells a splendid
story of the interest manifested by the pupils of this city in their
public school work. No city in the state can boast of better
educational facilities than Chariton, county seat of Lucas county.

The next prominent feature in this booth is the dairy
interests of Lucas, represented by firkins of pure rich butter and
a number of elegant cheeses. From this industry Lucas reaps
immense profits every year, being looked after by an intelligent
and wealthy class.

The sample of native wood on exhibition from timber along
the banks of her creeks and rivers indicates cheap fuel in this
line also, as well as in coal. Sandstone and coal form another
interesting and valuable exhibit in this booth, which speaks of
cheap building material in her section.

The beautiful decoration of the ceiling in this booth is
made of grasses and grains and green corn on the stalk, artistic-
ally arranged, while several pieces of esthetic fancy work adorn
the side walls. Handsome photographs of fine county buildings,
city and farm residences occupy prominent places here and
there throughout this elegant boudoir. Lucas is certainly rich
in her landed possessions and she has not been at all backward
in bringing together a most excellent showing of the prod-
ucts of her soil, placing them before the great king of the blue
grass regions and a multitude of invited guests.

Chariton, the county seat of Lucas county, is beautifully
located on the main line of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy
railroad, or Blue Grass route, and contains 4,000 inhabitants and
is one of the best towns in the state of Iowa.

IOWA LEAVES. 201

The business portion of the city is soHdly built of fine brick
blocks, while the streets are broad and attractive — pleasing to
the eye of all visitors who may be sojourning in the city. Nu-
merous classes of business are established here and merchants
are active in supplying the wants of a large and wealthy
country tributar}'.

The residence portion of the city contains some very ele-
gant homes and tasty cottages, while fine, commodious school
buildings are seen in every ward.

Chariton dotes on her churches, which are a source of great
pride to all her people; therefore, all denominations of the
Christian religion find a pleasant and permanent home in
this city.

The citizens of Chariton are an aristocratic and hospitable
class of people and are adepts in the art of entertaining strangers
who may be sojourning in their city, while the farmers through-
out the country surrounding her are an honest, zealous class
who till the soil, being sure of good crops every year, raise
stock for the market, make butter and cheese, improve their
homes, train and educate their children, taking at all times great
pride in their churches.

The Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad passes through
the heart of the city from east to west, while a handsome brick
depot with limestone trimmings is a leading ornament to
Chariton. Hutchison & Abel, hotel men of fame, run the ele-
gant hotel in connection with the depot, where the traveler may
have the pleasure of sitting down to the very best meals served
on the continent. The delicious viands served b}' Hutchison
& Abel cannot fail to please the taste of the most fastidious
epicurean, being served in the most perfect and satisfactory
manner at all times. These noted gentlemen also control the

202 IOWA LEAVES.

depot hotels at Ottumwa, Burlington and Red Oak, Iowa, where
meals are served in the same elegant style as at Chariton.
A line of road branches out from Chariton north to Des
Moines and one south to St. Joseph, Mo., both through a fine
agricultural country. Lucas is a great stock country and hun-
dreds of cars of the same are shipped yearly to other markets,
always finding ready sale. Abundance of fresh water and rich
blue grass pastures make her one of the finest grazing countries
in the west. The lay of the land is such in Lucas that elegant
crops are grown here every year and the farmer liberally
rewarded for his labor; therefore, she is a favored spot in the
noted blue grass regions of southwestern Iowa. Her people
are a prosperous and happy race and when a stranger from less
favored regions comes west in search of permanent homes we
can only say: Pass not by, but stop in Lucas and look carefully
through her section and note her many excellent and natural
advantages.

CLARKE COUNTY.

And now we have come to Clarke county and our interest
grows deeper and deeper the longer we travel together through
the Eden of the new world and through her palace so marvel-
ously constructed of the products of her ^oil, which we can
only compare to the hanging gardens of Babylon — so grand and
magnificent that seemingly some mysterious hand has wrought
the elaborate decorations instead of having been made by those
belonging to human beings.

The latchstring on the entrance to Clarke's romantic abode
hangs on the outside and we take advantage of the extended
hospitality and pass in to gaze upon the royal holiday attire in
which she presents herself to the world. We find her glitter-
ing, as it were, with all the many beautiful things which her

IOWA LEAVES. 203

country affords. Even the king is very lavish in his admira-
tion of Clarke's handsome showing in the palace and of her
marvelous resources.

The ceiling decorations are unsurpassed in the palace,
having the appearance of a luxuriant meadow ready for the
harvest, while in the center is a star made of red and white
beans. Three sides of this booth have been decorated for the
eyes of an admiring public in all the rich products which her
soil affords and when we have examined them we are proud
to name Iowa our native state.

The fruits which adorn the tables in this booth are very
fine, and judging from the exhibit the orchards in her section
are thrifty spots and filled with luscious, rosy-cheeked apples,
the soil being perfectly adapted to the successful cultivation
of fruits.

The vegetables rank with any we have yet seen in the
palace, while the product of the dairy forms a very interesting
feature; jars of sweet, fresh butter, and elegant creamy cheese
are shown, from which she reaps large profits every 3-ear.

The public schools of Osceola have an excellent exhibit of
their public school work on the south wall, which speaks
volumes for the educational interests of Clarke county. Fine
pictures of county, buildings, churches, schools, city and farm
residences adorn the north wall.

Osceola is the county seat of Clarke county, on the main
line of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, about
thirty-three miles east of Creston. A branch line runs north
from here to Des Moines and south to Leon, in Decatur county.

Clarke county is noted for its productive soil, bountiful
harvests, beautiful landscapes and as being one of the ver}^ best
stock counties in the west. The homes of the farmers in these

204 IOWA LEAVES.

regions are teeming with thrift, prosperity and comfort. The
Grand river and tributaries, which flow through all portions of
the county, afford an excellent supply of pure water for stock,
while the native timber along their banks furnishes cheap fuel for
her fires. The prairies and valleys are carpeted with a rich,
velvety verdure of blue grass, on which hundreds of cattle
graze the year round in moderate seasons. Much attention has
been given to fruit culture in this county during the last few
years and all kinds of apples, cherries, grapes, plums, pears
and small fruits may be produced in great abundance by proper
cultivation. The farmers generally raise all the apples needed
for their own use, while many barrels have been shipped to
other markets.

There is but little wild, open land in tnis county, which is
timber land; nothing but improved farms in Clarke.

Osceola is a prosperous town of about 3,000 inhabitants,
where numerous classes of business are established, which are
necessary in supplying a wealthy tributary territory, while the
merchants are an upright, honest and liberal class.

The various religious denominations all have church homes
in this picturesque town, each having a large membership,
while as handsome a court-house and grounds as is found in the
state is seen in this city. Osceola would not for the world
be behind the times in this valuable improvement. Neither
would Clarke county, for it is a very necessary and valuable
one.

Elegant school buildings are seen here and her public
school system is an efficient one; the residence portion of the
city is filled with costly residences and tasteful cottages,
while all her people are contented and happy, being a wide-
awake and liberal-minded class.

IOWA LEAVES. 205

The business portion of the city is sohdly built and the
streets wide and prettily bordered by shade trees, making it a
lovely residence town. If any person living in the cramped-up
eastern states contemplates moving west, he can safely come to
this section of country and find all that is desirable in a com-
fortable and profitable home among the enterprising people of
Clarke county, who, in common with her sister counties of the
blue grass regions of southwestern Iowa, produces pasturage
and hay that cannot be excelled on the earth; her tame pastures,
and especially her winter blue grass pastures, are her pride, as
they are the source of profit for her well-to-do and intelligent
farmers and stock-growers.

Clarke has made a lasting impression on the multitude by
the excellent display she has made in the blue grass palace and
all hope to again meet her in the palace of 1891 and also in
the Iowa exhibit at the world's fair in 1893.

WARREN COUNTY.

The next display of interest and beauty which we would
kindly invite the reader to accompany us through is the one
made by Warren county. She has come up to the palace dec-
orated with genius and skill and all visitors are delighted as
they look upon her elegant apartments. Warren is one of the
richest among the eighteen comprising the blue grass regions,
and lies immediately north of Clarke and Lucas, joining lands
with Marion county on the east, while Madison bounds her on
the west and Polk on the north.

Indianola is the county seat of Warren, situated on the
Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, or Blue Grass route,
which passes through the county entire from north to south,
while the Rock Island & Pacific penetrates her section from

206 IOWA LEAVES.

northeast to southwest, affording excellent facilities for ship-
ping purposes.

It is also one of the richest in coal in the state, having
twenty coal mines in operation. The principal ones are the
Lumesden Bros, and the Summerset Coal company. The vein
of coal here is three feet and one-half in thickness and is of the
middle coal measures; it is of excellent quality. There are
four mines on Middle river, three miles south of Summerset, all
doing a good business. The mines at Lacona and Milo are
operated in the upper vein of coal, which is from fourteen to
eighteen inches in thickness, and are dependent upon local sales
for their business. This county does not produce much coal
for the number of mines it has in operation, as the railroads do
not run in the right direction; therefore, it is handicapped for
the want of an outlet in western markets. It produced in 1889
24,796 tons.

The fruit culture is one of Warren's best interests; there-
fore, an excellent variety of apples, grapes, pears and plums is
shown in this booth, arranged on long white tables, while
numerous jars of all kinds of small fruits are displayed, tempt-
ing the appetite of all visitors to the palace.

The excellent grain exhibit, placed here in open sacks,
denotes that Warren's soil is well adapted to the raising of all
kinds of grains which grow in our latitude, while the vegetables
are of excellent quality, another proof of her elegant soil.

The display of seeds, especially those of blue grass, timothy
and clover, tells of fine meadows and pastures in her section,
which for grazing and producing tame grasses cannot be sur-
passed in the state of Iowa, nor in the great west, not even
excepting the blue grass regions of old Kentucky. The blue
grass regions of Iowa are fast discounting that famed land, not

IOWA LEAVES. 207

only in the production of blue grass, but in fine stock as well.
No scrub stock in Warren county. Excellent butter and
cheese are seen here, which compare favorably with those from
other counties in the blue grass regions, and Warren ships
thousands of pounds of the same every year, which find ready
sale on the markets of the south and east.

Warren county is blessed with ever3'thing which goes to-
ward the making up of a happy country, but needs a few more
people. She is blessed with good schools, cozy churches, sub-
stantial bridges, highways and railroads.

Farm lands are constantly on the increase and good houses,
barns, fences and orchards are being placed upon them, which
compare with any of those seen in our eastern states, and she is
ready to welcome at any time the strangers who may be seek-
ing a home in the west, and to any who are willing to cast
their lot with hers in the famous blue grass belt she extends a
cordial welcome.

Indianola, the county seat of Warren, is situated in the heart
of a great agricultural region and contains a hospitable, charita-
ble and liberal-minded class of people, while neat churches and
school buildings, pretty residences and cottages are seen scat-
tered throughout the entire village.

The country surrounding Indianola is noted for the pretty
landscapes and the great fertility of its soil, which grows boun-
tiful crops every year, and the farmers of this section are an
enterprising and wealthy class. A large supply of timber grows
along the banks of the Middle river, North river and Badger
creek, adding to the beauty of her landscapes and affording
cheap fuel for her inhabitants and shelter for stock in winter.

Warren can well afford to parade her great resources
before a multitude and she will no doubt come forth to the

208 IOWA LEAVES.

palace of 1891 with all the pride and splendor which her country
knows so well how to assume and all her man}- advantages will
be proclaimed to the world. Hurrah for Warren!

MADISON COUNTY.

Madison county joins Warren on the east, Union and
Clarke on the south, Adair on the west and Dallas on the north.

Madison is proud of her name and proud of her country,
and she has no intention of being outrivaled by her adjoining
sisters in the famed blue grass regions; therefore, she has come
forth to the palace bedecked in all the fine products of her soil.
The king seems greatly pleased with the offering she makes
in the carnival and looks upon her with eyes of favor.

The ceiling and side walls in this booth are handsomely
decorated, while the most novel and interesting centerpiece in
the entire palace is displayed herein. Reader, guess what it is;
can you.^ A real log cabin constructed of fifty-six different
kinds of wood, all native of Madison, and is roofed over with
clapboards, the style and finish being of the famous Daniel
Boone pattern, handsomely wrought out in the rude construc-
tion. The latchstring hangs gracefully on the outside, which
means "walk in; you are welcome."

On the corner of this novel cabin are seen strings of quar-
tered apples and pumpkins hung up to dry for the winter's use.
Coon skins are tacked up along one side, while mole skins adorn
the back part and a large, old commonplace chimney runs from
the ground up, with a fireplace on the inside. This cabin is a
drawing card and Madison has caught the crowds every day
by this novel exhibit. How often these words fell on our ear
while paying a visit to Madison's magnificent apartment: "The
happiest days of our life were spent in a log cabin and it does
our hearts good to look upon one once more."

IOWA LEAVES.

209

Judging from the display made here, Madison is certainly
blessed with an overflow of all the luscious fruits in season, for
her wigwam is tilled with apples, grapes, peaches, pears and
plums skillfully arranged by artistic hands from Madison's beau-
tiful section and, as we look upon this display made by her in
the palace of grass, we can look beyond into beautiful brown
orchards laden with fruit ready for the fall gathering.

The display of vegetables would surprise the good old
James Madison himself could he look upon these products of the
soil from the county which bears his name, for the}'^ are indeed
beautiful.

The grain exhibit is fine and without a rival; corn in the
ear and shelled corn in sacks, oats in the stalk and in glass jars,
wheat, millet, rye, barley and flax in sacks, open for inspection,
all denote luxuriant growth and are pleasing to the eyes of all
farmers from other lands. Madison holds the edge on fine
grain, while her dairy interests near-by are the subject of much
comment by all visitors to the palace. Excellent butter and
cheese, two of the leading industries in her regions, are shown
here in the finest quality.

Winterset is the county seat of Madison county and is
situated on the Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific railroad; it is
one of the oldest towns in the state and was one of the principal
stopping-places in the old stage time in southwestern Iowa
before her successful introduction to railroads.

Winterset is a flourishing town of about 2,000 inhabitants,
all classes of business having been established here which are
necessary in supplying the wants of a beautiful surrounding
country. Her business blocks are of a substantial nature, while
pretty churches and school buildings adorn the city and are a
source of pride to her people. Winterset is also a city of

210 IOWA LEAVES.

pleasant homes and contains an enterprising and thrifty class
of people.

The soil in Madison county is very aeep and proauctive
and elegant crops are grown here every 3ear, and for the suc-
cessful growing of hay and all kinds of grasses known to our
latitude she is one of the very best in the boundless west and
no country on the continent affords as many natural advantages
for the growing of stock as Madison county. There is scarcely
a section of land in the county but has a good supply of water,
while large quantities of native timber afford plenty of cheap
fuel for her inhabitants, which add beauty to her landscapes
and are excellent shelter for stock.

Beautiful homes, elegant farms, prosperous towns and
villages with excellent railroad facilities make a pretty picture
for the traveler passing through this section of country. The
climate is all that is desirable, not cold as a rule in winter, while
the atmosphere is generally dry and invigorating.

Iowa has a steady and permanent growth and her climate
is as flexible and inviting as any in the land. Nearly every
farmer in the blue grass regions is a cattle grower; he raises
them in his pastures the same as a Kentuckian does in the
vicinity of Lexington. They " grow up ■' with the country and
do not need cultivation. A farmer with only forty acres of
land has a bunch of steers and like a Kentuckian, "eats steer"
and "talks steer" like a veteran. Large shipments of cattle,
horses, hogs and sheep are made from this county every year.
Southwestern Iowa has become famous as a great stock country
and the finest improved stock horses that money can buy, both
in draught and roadsters, are found in this section. Thousands
of horses are shipped from the blue grass regions ever}' vear to
the eastern and southern markets.

IOWA LEAVES. 211

Southwestern Iowa is recognized by her horses as well as
by her cattle. A number of the fast horses in these regions are
already making their mark in the annals of the turf and we
doubt if any other section of country can show as great a per-
centage of blooded animals of all kinds. Scrub stock is a curi-
osity in the blue grass regions. Madison, your excellent exhibit
in the blue grass palace has been the means of heralding your
name and fame abroad, even in other lands, and the king kindly
invites you to come again and share in the feast and festivities
in the carnival of 1891. Come forth with your fruits and a por-
tion of your elegant products of the soil, the dairy and estimates
of all your 3'early shipments, and lastly, don't forget to bring up
the old log cabin initiated by the handiwork of a Daniel Boone.

ADAIR COUNTY.

Now, readers, let us go forth into the abode of romantic
Adair, which cosil}' nestles between her two sisters, Madison
and Cass, while Guthrie kindly looks upon her from the north
and another fair sister called Union waits lovingly upon her
from the south country.

Adair's bashful charms are enhanced by a thousand
natural advantages and the "half has never been told." She is
led forth to the blue o^rass carnival in all the lavish decorations
made from the products of a wonderful soil, and the king of the
blue grass regions looks upon her with eyes of great favor, and
has allowed her the sweet privilege of choosing for herself one
of the most convenient locations within this elegant domicile.

Adair is certainly the garden spot of the blue grass regions.
Nature has been very lavish in the distribution of her gifts
throughout this section of country ; lovely brooks and rivers,
hills and valleys and beautiful meadows waving with blossoms

212 IOWA LEAVES.

greet the eye of tlie traveler in passing through her section of
country.

Adair is noted for her elegant blue grass pasture lands and
as having the most fertile soil under the heavens. Field after
field of golden grain, whose tints are as mellow as the beauti-
ful azure sky which shines above them, present themselves in
due season to the traveler as he passes through her garden
of Eden.

What an excellent showing of all these precious gifts Adair
is making in the blue grass palace of 1890! The fair ladies
of her beautiful section have shown the multitude what they
can do in the way of artistic decorations. The ceiling of this
booth is decorated with corn, oats, grass and wheat, manipu-
lated with perfect skill, while the side walls are artistic in effect
and coloring. A novel centerpiece is formed of a large square
covered with all the elegant varieties of grains and grasses
grown in Adair county, on which is a horse and sleigh made
entirely of the products of her soil. This sleigh is as perfect in
form as if manufactured by Beggs Bros, of Creston, Iowa, and
contains an occupant made of grasses and grains and different
varieties of seeds. Judging b}' the manner in which he holds
his lines, we are led to believe he may be one of Adair's bash-
ful young men driving out for his best girl. A heavy mus-
tache of red corn silk adorns the upper lip of this handsome
3'oung "Robin Adair" and the waxed curl which he has given it
cannot be duplicated, although many young gentlemen living in
these regions have practiced the twirl; but all of no avail.

A beautiful charger made of corn, typical of that raised
in Adair county, pulls this sleigh, while the attractive harness is
made of plaited blue grass. This pretty picture attracts large
crowds to a fine piece of artistic work. We turn from this

IOWA LEAVES. 213

unique picture to look upon another equally as inviting, and
caps the climax for genuine skill; it is a complete representa-
tion of D. Dunlap's elevator at Fontanelle, in this county, and
perfect in every detail. This building is constructed of red
shelled corn, with white corn trimmings, and the words "D. H.
Dunlap's Elevator^' run along the side, the letters being formed
of white grains of corn; a miniature railroad passes along one
side of this pretty elevator, on which a number of cars are
standing and are being loaded with corn, wheat, oats, timothy
and blue grass seed. What a wonderful advertisement this
of Adair's productive soil! What a beautiful display of
enterprise and genius! Large crowds linger around it every
day, watching the grain pour down the grain spouts into
the cars, ready for shipping to the markets of the south
and east.

We turn again and we are confronted by an unusually
large Newfoundland dog, made entirely of blue grass heads
and hitched to a cart constructed of seeds from Adair's romantic
section. This cart is occupied by a lovely child, clothed in all
the beautiful flowers of the fields, and she holds a pair of lines
in her little hands, made of plaited grasses, by which she grace-
fully guides the noble animal which seems very proud of the
honor he bears in waiting upon his little mistress. The most
surprising figure in this booth is a horse, life size, made entirely
of blue grass heads, true to life as it stands here in all its beauty,
seemingly gentle as a lamb, and reined up by a pretty bridle of
plaited corn blades. This is another production of Adair's skill
and enterprise, demonstrating the fact to all visitors that the
horses raised in Adair's section of country are blue grass fed.
This horse has attracted thousands of people to romantic
Adair's museum. A sheep perfect in form, made of a rich

214 IOWA LEAVES.

growth of oat and wheat heads, is another wonderful drawing
feature, representing a tine quaHty of wool.

Blue grass, timothy and red top grow very prolifically in
romantic Adair, and the greatest living curiosity in the blue
grass region is seen in her booth, a real, live man with a lux-
uriant ofrowth of blue o:rass whiskers which the soft winds of
Adair have turned to somber brown. Live specimens of
" red top " grass are also shown, denoting a growth of over
six feet.

Many other pieces of artistic work, manipulated by Adair's
fair sons and daughters, are seen in this booth which we cannot
describe at this time in this work, so we will pass on to the dis-
play of fruits, which are elegant; luscious red and yellow apples,
peaches, pears, plums and grapes adorn her tables, while the
vegetables are wonderful to look upon; every kind that are
known to grow in this latitude are seen here in great profusion.
Adair's orchards and gardens are always filled with abundant
crops every year, furnishing not only an ample supply for home
use, but large quantities are shipped to other markets.

The grain exhibit, both in the stalk and in sacks, open for
inspection, denotes a wonderful growth in the soil of romantic
Adair, the fertility of which knows no rival, and in the hazy
distance we can see fields of golden grain and waving corn
yielding rich returns to the farmers of her section every year.

Adair takes great pride in her dairies, and firkins of rich
butter and samples of elegant cheese occupy a prominent
place in this booth, which tell of fine blue grass pastures and
running streams of water, which are very necessary to any
country in order to produce milk, butter and cheese, and some
of the finest butter placed on the markets of the country comes
from Adair county.

IOWA LEAVES. . 215

A fine quality of brick is shown in this booth from the
Fontanelle kiln, excellent for building purposes. Coal has been
discovered in this county, but as yet has not been extensively
mined. It is a positive fact that thick, rich veins underlie her
whole section and the day is not far distant when extensive
mines will be opened up throughout the county.

Branches of the Grand river. Middle Nodaway and Middle
river all pass through' this county, affording an excellent water
supply, while the native timber along their banks adds beauty to
her landscapes and the valleys furnish excellent pasturage for
hundreds of cattle and horses which graze on them the year
round in moderate seasons.

Adair has become famous as a great stock country and
large shipments of the same are made from this section at all
seasons of the year.

Greenfield, Fontanelle, Orient, Spaulding, Cumberland and
Messena are the principal towns along the line of the Chicago,
Burlington & Quincy railroad, and Adair and Stuart on the
Rock Island.

The lay of the land in this county is the most beautiful ia
the state, just rolling enough so that crops are not damaged by
wet seasons, while the soil is so peculiarly adapted that drouth
has little effect.

Greenfield is the county seat of Adair county, situated on
the Cumberland branch of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy
railroad, or Blue Grass route; it is a pretty village with cosy
homes, churches and school buildings ; neat business blocks are
seen here and all classes of business are established necessary
in supplying a wealthy surrounding country.

Fontanelle is a lovely town about seven miles west of
Greenfield on the same line of road and is situated on a high

216

IOWA LEAVES.

upland looking down on one of the most beautiful and fertile
counties on the continent. Numerous branches of business are
located here, while her citizens are noted far and wide as an intelli-
gent and enterprising class. Cosy churches and pretty school
buildings adorn this place and are a source of pride to her
people, whose hospitality is unlimited.

The farmers of Adair are an honest, upright body of
zealous workers, who till the soil, raise cattle for the markets,
improve their homes and are, of course, a prosperous, happy
and contented people. Is it any wonder that a prominent blue
grass lawyer from Fontanelle, while proclaiming the great
resources of his own county in the beautiful auditorium at the
palace of 1890, so far forgot himself and called his county the
"state of Adair."

Lovely, romantic Adair! We hope to have the pleasure
of meeting you again in the blue grass palace of 1891 and
that you will place your exhibit of the wonderful products of
your soil in the Iowa exhibit at the world^s fair in 1893.
The world would like the satisfaction of gazing upon the greatest
museum ever produced from the products of the soil, in any
country, which only Adair county can make.

CASS COUNTY.

Cass, you are lovely to look upon in the blue grass palace
and the glorious array of pride and splendor in which you have
come up to the palace city is indeed wonderful. Your magnifi-
cent caravan is seemingly loaded down to the utmost capacity
with all the products of your native county. Your elegant
decorations are grand, even beyond description and thousands
of admiring eyes are turned toward your lovely apartment in
the king's beautifully decorated palace. Three sides of your

IOWA LEAVES. 217

elegant booth have been decorated for public gaze, each pre-
senting a charming appearance, while the huge cornucopia of
canned goods in the center is a surprise, even to people living
in your own county, and when we gaze on the boxes of pure,
glossy starch and fine toilet soaps, which surround the canned
goods, a hidden secret has been revealed, and thousands of
visitors have learned that you are not only rich in agricultural
resources, but in thrifty enterprise as well, which Iowa is proud
to claim as her own.

The next interesting exhibit is arranged on neat tables,
spread with creamy material, consisting of fruits, grasses,
grain and vegetables, all products of Cass county. Corn is
king, elegant, large, full, rounded ears of which are shown here,
which speak volumes for the quality of her soil.

Oats, wheat, barley, rye, millet, flax and broom corn of
wonderful growth are displayed, abundant crops of all being
raised here every year. The vegetables displayed here are fine
and the inhabitants of Cass county need never fear a famine
while her soil is so productive and grows such vegetables.
Blue grass, timothy and clover seed are shown here in large
quantities and as we look upon them we can see beautiful past-
ures and meadows waving with red and white clover blossoms.
The dairy interests of Cass are largely represented in jars of
sweet, yellow butter and elegant samples of cheese from her
manufactories. Cass is well up to her sister counties in the
products of the dairy and shows large estimates of yearly ship-
ments in this very valuable industry.

Atlantic is the county seat of Cass county, situated on the
Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific railroad, which passes through
the county from east to west, while the Chicago, Burlington &
Quincy penetrates the southern portion, affording excellent

218 IOWA LEAVES.

transportation and shipping facilities for all her inhabitants.
Atlantic is a thorough t3pe of an enterprising western city.
Her citizens are chuck full of energy and grit and are hustlers
for their city and county. Her merchants are gentlemen of the
highest type and know just how to treat their friends nnd cus-
tomers and the stranger sojourning from other lands will also
meet with the same hospitality as is generally extended to the
most distinguished guest.

There is no prettier country in the state of Iowa than is
found in Cass county in the blue grass regions. The lay of the
land in her section is a glorious sight to behold, while the com-
fortable homes of her farmers are indicative of enterprise and
contentment. Abundant crops and full barns are a source of
great pride to her people and Cass possesses every advantage
enjoyed only in the best farming regions of the state.

As a stock country Cass cannot be excelled in the west;
some of the finest horses, cattle, hogs and sheep in the state are
found in her section and large shipments of the same are made
at all seasons of the year from Atlantic and Anita on the Chi-
cago, Rock Island & Pacific and from Griswold on the Chicago,
Burlington & Quincy.

The valleys of the Nishnabotar.a river, Indian creek. Seven
Mile creek and the Tarkis river abound in the richest blue
grass pastures in the world and hundreds of cattle graze in
them the year round in moderate seasons, while the streams
furnish them an excellent supply of pure water. The banks
along these streams are covered with a heav}^ growth of native
timber furnishing cheap fuel for her fires.

All in all, Cass county is one of the most productive in
the blue grass regions, while her people are an intelligent and
aristocratic class and when the blue grass carnival of 1891 is

IOWA LEAVES. 219

thrown open and King Blue Grass is in one of his happiest
moods Cass will be seen rolling on toward the palace city of
Creston in chariots of gold, loaded down with all the products
of a year's labor, which she will place before the king and
thousands of people from far-off countries, who will be perfectly
enraptured, as it were, with her magnificent decorations.

POTTAWATTAMIE COUNTY.

Now, reader, we shall in a very short time have completed
the great journey of the blue grass regions and palace, and now
our eyes rest last, but not least, on Pottawattamie's bower of
genius and beauty, which for true elegance is unsurpassed in
the palace. She has been most lavish in her decorations in honor
of the king of the blue grass regions and has spared no pains
to make her exhibit the most worthy yet placed before him.
Lovely bouquets of flowers of all shades and colorings occupy
prominent positions throughout this booth, sending forth a rich
perfume to all passing through her magnificent apartments.

The first object of interest which we look upon in this
novel booth is a "blue grass widow," life size, and bedecked in all
the gay products of Pottawattamie's soil. Her attitude is a
striking one, as she gracefully holds forth on a pedestal of grain
and grasses grown in the county, and her smiles are killing from
underneath a poke bonnet made of plaited oats, straw and
trimmed with all the field flowers it can possibly hold. She
has chosen the national flower for her favorite color and she
carries a large bouquet of golden rod in her left hand. She is
attired in a combination suit of all the different varieties of
grasses known in Pottawattamie's fertile section, blue grass
predominating largely in the make up. The cut and style of
this dress are from the latest French modiste's decollete en train

220 IOWA LEAVES.

and an elegant necklace of solid grains of red corn adorns her
alabaster neck, while the bracelets which clasp her arms are of
the same valuable material. This widow is greatly admired by
the bachelors and widowers in the blue gi'ass regions, and espe-
cially by one who has come up to the palace as her escort and
''best fellow," who stands near her with the same graceful atti-
tude that adorns a statue, and the green-eyed monster is plainly
visible at times, for his black eyes flash with rage as he notes
the many compliments passed on the "widder" by numerous
gentlemen while passing through Pottawattamie's beautiful
wigwam. This figure is a product of Pottawattamie's line
orchards, having been constructed entirely of those red, lus-
cious and tempting apples which only Pottawattamie can
produce. These two figures attract large crowds to Mont-
gomery's elegant booth every day and have been admired
by thousands.

In another part of this apartment is a horse, life size, made
of small white onions, such as the careful housewife in the blue
grass regions pickles in the fall to eat with baked beans during
the winter season. This pretty white horse is perfect in form
and hitched up to a cart loaded with a large supply of vegeta-
bles from Pottawattamie's fertile section, while the harness is an
attractive piece of artistic work, being made of specked corn-
field beans, or old-fashioned bird eyes. Pottawattamie is
noted for quick ideas and projects which are no sooner conceived
than put into effect — a fact fully demonstrated in their exhibit
in the blue grass palace — and her name has become famous
throughout the land. An old gentleman, no doubt with an eye
to matrimony, kindly asked the pleasant commissioner in this
booth if there were any more of "them widders" in his section
of country. To which the commissioner laughingly replied:

IOWA LEAVES. 221

"Yes, sir; lots of 'em. We are shipping them out every day by
the ton."

While the products of the other two figures are being
shipped out every day by the car load and all find excellent
markets in the south and east. Long steps are ranged along
three sides of this booth covered with delicate cream bunting,
on which are displayed an excellent variety of fruits, grains,
seeds and vegetables (fine apples especially and an index of
Pottawattamie's orchards, which yield thousands of bushels
every year ) and the small fruits put up in glass jars by her hos-
pitable housewives tell a wonderful story of her prolific berry
patches. The grain exhibit from these regions is elegant and
a source of pride to her industrious farmers. Corn, oats, wheat,
rye, barley, millet, flax, broom corn and sorghum denote a fine
growth, w^hile corn on the stalk from the Missouri river valley
measuring fifteen feet high is of miraculous growth, and the soil
in the vallev of the Missouri running;' alons; the entire western
portion of the state has no rival on the continent in the produc-
tion of corn.

The dairy is largely represented in this booth in butter and
cheese of the very finest grade and Pottawattamie reaps large
profits from this valuable industry every year.

Council Bluffs is the county seat of Pottawattamie county,
situated in the Missouri river valley about four miles east of
Omaha and has 30,000 inhabitants; it is one of the oldest towns
in Iowa, having been settled as early as the year 1844, has
had a steady growth and to-day assumes large proportions.
This city has a fine location and contains some very handsome
business property, the blocks being mostly built of solid brick,
with one of the finest county buildings in the west, having cost
the sum of $80,000. Elegant churches and fine hotels may be

222 IOWA LEAVES.

seen on every hand, while the state institution for the deaf and
dumb has a handsome location and beautiful grounds near the
city. The buildings are commodious and built of brick,
equipped with all modern improvements. What an elegant
institution the state of Iowa has provided for this class of unfort-
unates— a model home and every facility for improving the
mind and body.

All branches of business are established nere, the trade
of which extends over large territories of country both north,
south and east of the city. The Council Bluffs Board of Trade
came nobly forward in the securing of this elegant display in
the blue grass palace and came in a body to visit the great car-
nival, being highly delighted and royally entertained during
their sojourn in the palace city. Much credit is due this excel-
lent organization for the energy displa3'ed by them in the rapid
advancement of this city and county; energetic and enterpris-
ing, always on the alert for something advantageous to their
beautiful city, such as the placing of this excellent exhibit of the
products of her soil in the blue grass palace, demonstrates the
fact that Council Bluffs is always ahead in every new enter-
prise calculated to advance her interests. ,

Pottawattamie is rich in the chief wealth of a nation — agri-
culture— and no better farming land is found on the continent
than her country possesses and her vast area is covered with
elegant, cultivated farms. Council Bluffs is the central point of
one of the richest farming countries in the Union and her
citizens are sanguine of future greatness. The rich valleys of
the great Missouri and Nishnabatona rivers. Keg and Silver
creeks afford excellent blue grass pasturage for stock, while the
streams furnish water all the year round and large quantities
of native timber of heavy growth supply her inhabitants with

IOWA LEAVES. 223

cheap fuel. Cattle, sheep, hogs and horses grow up with the
country in this section, requiring but little feeding. Hundreds
of car loads are shipped every year to eastern markets, finding
ready sale. The grain, fruit and dairy shipments also foot up
large sums, while her railroad facilities are the finest in the
west. When we consider that seven trunk lines traverse her
section, entering the city of Council Bluffs, and are as follows:
The Chicago, Burlington & Quincy; Chicago, Rock Island
& Pacific; Chicago, Minneapolis & St. Paul; Chicago & North-
western; Omaha & St. Louis; Kansas City, St. Jo & Council
Bluffs, and Union Pacific; therefore, the manufacturer, the stock
grower, the grain merchant, the farmer, the city merchant all
have excellent shipping facilities and rapid transportation in
Pottawattamie county. When the blue grass palace of 1891
opens to the world in August next a vast multitude will again
have the pleasure of viewing Pottawattamie's numerous attrac-
tions and even the lords of the British Isles will be pleased with
her magnificent appearance.

We have now completed the most romantic journey
taken on the continent — through the blue grass regions of
southwestern Iowa and through the only blue grass palace
under the shining sun. What do you think of it? We hope
you have been both pleased and highly entertained in making
the tour and hope that you may give them a personal visit and
inspection in the year 1891. The palace has become a perma-
nent feature in the blue grass regions at the palace city of
Creston, Iowa, and will be opened to the world at large on
August 19 next. This great industrial exposition will be
held in connection with the Creston District Agricultural
Fair, which always has wide attractions for all classes. The
premium list for 1891 has been revised and in many instances

224 IOWA LEAVES.

the premiums now offered are equal to those of the state fair.
Ten thousand dollars has been appropriated for the speed
department. This of itself warrants the assertion that as
fine a field of horses and as grand exhibition of speed will
be seen here as can be brought before the public on any fair
ground in the great west.

The decorations of the palace this season will far surpass
those of former 3^ears described in this work and the entire
building will be rebuilt and changed, so that those who may
have viewed the one of 1890 will scarcely recognize any por-
tion of the same connected with the one of 1891. Many new
and attractive features will be added, among which will be a
movable panorama, containing 100 pictures of actual scenes
located in the blue grass regions.

To all those living in the far east, west, north or south:
Do not miss the unequaled opportunity of viewing the grand
and artistic beauty of the only blue grass palace under the sun,
filled with all the elegant agricultural products of the eighteen
counties in the league, wrought in all the many beautiful and
esthetic forms pleasing to the eye of the most fastidious per-
sons. All these leading attractions combined with the finest
exhibition of stock from this and adjoining states ever seen any-
where in the west and the wonderful contests for premiums in
speed ring. You could not select a more beautiful and elabo-
rate exposition and fair to visit this fall, nor a more convenient
time, nor meet with a more pleasant, enlightened and hospitable
class of people than are found in the blue grass regions of south-
western Iowa.

Come all of ye Missourians,

Ye Kansas folks and all,
Up to the palace city

And see the sights this fall.

IOWA LEAVES. 225

Come all ye Illinoisans,

And ye Nebraskans too,
And from far-off Wisconsin

And look our palace through.

Come ye from Minnesota,

With your palace made of ice.
Come down and try our climate;

I'm sure you'll think it's nice.

Come all ye eastern people.

Come from the north and south
And see our blue grass regions

Where we never have a drouth.

Come from the far-ofif Rockies,

And from California too.
And from the AUeghanies

And look our palace through.

Come all ye proud Hawk-Eyeans,

Our work is nobly done;
We have three of the greatest palaces

Under the shining sun.

The Burlington Route.

THE BURLINGTON ROUTE.

The traveler who rides over the Chicago, BurHngton &
Quincy road from Chicago to Denver sees one of the most
beautiful, sublime, fertile and prosperous belts of country
traversed by any railroad on the continent. This region has
more cultivated country, beautiful and enterprising cities and
villages and splendid opportunities for those seeking homes in
the great west or for business than that tributary to any other
line, for these reasons: The Burlington is pre-eminently the
favorite route to and from all eastern points for the tourist or
homeseeker, or those contemplating entering on business.

The great World's Fair city, Chicago, situated on the
beautiful shores of Lake Michigan, marks the eastern ter-
minus of this great line of road, having over 1,000,000 inhabit-
ants and covering hundreds of acres of land — over 170 square
miles. The public parks alone cover 2,423 acres of land and
the city has fifty miles of boulevards and 1,045 "^i^^s of streets.

This great city is divided by a river into three divisions,
which are legally known as south, west and north divisions; it
has 6,731 manufactories, employing 252,280 men, women, boys
and girls. Capital invested and employed, $499,925,000.
Annual products and articles produced from wood, metal and
other raw materials, $351,500,000. Thirty elevators furnish a
storage capacity of 50,000,000 bushels of grain, the Chicago,
Burlington & Quincy's Elevator D being the largest. Four

229

230 IOWA LEAVES.

hundred and sixty-three regular passenger and suburban trains
arrive and depart daily and it has five handsome union depots
and five one-corporation depots.

The city also has 575 miles of street railways and two
elevated roads near completion on the south and west sides and
295 miles of beautiful driveways; has 155 hotels, seventeen first-
class theaters, five museums and five permanent panoramas, all
open the year round. The University of Chicago is the leading
educational institution of Illinois, with one of the finest observa-
tories in the United States. St. Ignatius College, the Presby-
terian Theological Seminary, Northwestern Seminary and
Garrett Biblical Institute at Evanston are prominent educa-
tional institutions. Chicago has 415 churches and an efficient
public school system. The Academy of Science, the Chicago
Historical Society with its admirable collection of historical
works, the Academy of Design, the reading room of the Young
Men's Christian Association and other places of similar
character are well worth visiting, and the traveler sojourning
in the city will learn from seeing them that Chicago is not
unmindful of the claims of higher education and higher attain-
ments in the arts and sciences, notwithstanding it is a great
commercial mart and enthusiastically devoted to commerce
and business. Chicago ranks first commercially in the United
States, second in manufactures and second in population and
the states most intimately connected with it and whose wants
are here principally supplied are Illinois, Iowa, Missouri, Wis-
consin, Minnesota, Kansas, Nebraska and Colorado.

We stand amazed at the future which is spread out before
this favored city with over 1,000,000 inhabitants and situated
at the head of a chain of mighty inland seas, whose waters
could float the commerce of a continent and which, by the

IOWA LEAVES. 231

Creator, seems evidently designed for a highway along which
to distribute the products of an immense region and by which
in turn to supply an increasing civilization. Chicago beats the
world in the handling of hogs, cattle, grain and lumber. The
number of miles of railroad leading into the city from the west
alone is 50,000, a number greater than the combined lines of
railways in Great Britain, Germany and Italy.

Some people will be surprised to learn that 457 vessels are
owned in Chicago, with a tonnage of 67,000, the largest one
being the propeller Peerless of 913 tons burden, while the
elevators of the city would contain the entire wheat crop of 1890.

Last year the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad
brought into Chicago nearly 2,000,000 hogs and a greater
number of cattle than any other road entering the city. The
Burlington handles more live stock than any other railway in
the world. And why? Because her system traverses the
finest cattle country known to the civilized world.

Chicago is rapidly becoming a great hay market, not far
from 100,000 tons having been handled here during the year
1890, at an average of about $10 a ton.

Nine-tenths of all the lumber arriving in Chicago comes
by lake, while the Burlington road takes out of the city more
than one-third of all shipments.

Other roads may ship more flour, sheep, wheat and barley,
but the Burlington nobly holds the "edge" on corn, oats, cattle,
lumber and hogs. Though Iowa is fast changing her politics,
she stills leads all other states in cattle, corn and hogs; and
Illinois is a good second. Chicago is now one of the most im-
portant cheese markets in the world, Illinois, Iowa and Wis-
consin having 2,000 cheese factories, while New York, Penn-
sylvania and Ohio contain 450. Considerably more than one-

232 IOWA LEAVES.

third of all the wheat raised in this country last year was
marketed in Chicago and one-tenth of all the hogs in the
United States were slaughtered in this city; besides all these
numerous advantages Chicago boasts of having the largest
union stock 3^ards in the world, where millions upon millions of
cattle and hogs are handled annually. Therefore, the largest
packing interests of our United States are located in this city,
whose shipments reach over the entire globe.

Chicago, the great eastern terminal of the Chicago, Bur-
lington & Quincy railroad and where her general offices are
located, is certainly well chosen wherein to hold the greatest
fair the world has ever known in 1893, and the old Burling-
ton will, no doubt, do herself proud in honor of the great event
in that year.

The extreme western termini of the Burlington railroad
are Denver, Colo., Cheyenne, Wyo., and New Castle, Dak.
Denver is the capital of Colorado, in Arapahoe county, and
situated on the Platte river at the junction of Cherry creek,
6,600 feet above the level of the sea and thirteen miles from the
eastern base of the Rocky mountains, which protect it from
the cold winds of winter. The mountains extend both north
and south as far as the eye can trace their rugged heights.
These highest points, Long^s peak to the north and Pike's peak
to the south, are in full view, towering far above the tops of the
grandest mountains in North America. They raise their snow-
clad peaks far above their compeers, rising so proudly and
defiantly into the clear blue sky, their gray sides and white
crests being visible through the clear atmosphere for many
miles. Objects like these are visible for a great distance;
indeed, were it so named, those who have never been in
these regions would at once deny the statement. Long's

IOWA LEAVES. 233

peak to the north is over 14,000 feet above the level of the
sea. Gray's peaks, the highest points yet explored in the state,
are 14,300 and 14,500 feet high; there are others less high,
but none the less grand and majestic.

The Alps, storied monuments of "poetical legendary" fame,
cannot compare with these mountains in scenes of sublime
beauty and awful grandeur. Here all the vast scene is before
you, the pure air bringing the distant mountains within your
vision as though anxious that the whole grand beauty of the
scene should be visible at one and the same time. The mind
drinks in the inspiration of the glorious vision at one draught
and, filled with awe, wonder and admiration, the bounding heart
almost stands still while the eager eyes gaze on the grandest
panorama in nature.

From the top of either of Gray's peaks a morning scene
of glorious beauty is unfolded, such as one rarely sees in
any clime, for nature in her wildest moods has never excelled
her handiwork here, a panoramic view of which now passes be-
fore us; travelers from foreign countries tell us that nowhere
within the range of European travel can such scenes be found —
scenes so full of beauty, sublimity and inspiration. Nowhere
on the old continent do we ascend so high ; from no point is the
view so wide and comprehensive. From Alpine summits the
tourist's gaze extends over one pretty province to rest upon an-
other; here the eye fails to reach the extent of even one portion
of our country, and the far distant horizon closes in the scene
by draping an airy curtain whose fleecy fringes rest on mount-
ain peaks and vast plains in far distant portions of the same
fair land. Volumes would not suffice to do justice to this beau-
tiful state, her vast resources, her mines of gold and silver, iron,
coal and copper, her rich and fertile valleys, her broad plains

234 IOWA LEAVES.

on which roam thousands of cattle, sheep and horses. Her vast
agricultural resources, her dense forests, deep canyons and
lofty mountains, her genial climate, and wholesouled, hospitable
people cannot be described in small space with any degree of
accuracy or justice; in fact, they cannot be described at all;
they must be seen to be appreciated and the readers of any
work pertaining to Colorado must live once among her healthy
and hospitable people before he or she can understand them or
comprehend their real character.

The climate at Denver is dry and very healthy, the state
being unsurpassed in this respect; diseases common in the older
states are unknown here; pulmonary complaints are either
eradicated from the system of invalids who resort to this country,
or the disease becomes modified so that the sufferer enjoys a
marked improvement in his condition.

Stock-raising is carried on very extensively in this state,
with very flattering results. No state in the union, California
excepted, can excel Colorado in the production of vegetables.
Owing to the dryness of the black loam irrigation is necessary
to secure good crops, for which purpose ditches have been dug
from neighboring streams, which afford the water required.
These ditches also afford ample water power for mills of various
kinds.

Colorado is rich in ner precious metals, gold and silver
being mined extensively in different parts of the state. Pike's
peak became famous in 1859, though it is said that gold was
discovered in 1849 along the base of the mountains many miles
north and south of Denver.

Coal has been discovered at various points. Many persons
estimate the extent of the coal fields at 5,000 square miles.
The veins of these mines are from five to nineteen feet thick.

IOWA LEAVES. 235

At one point eleven veins overlap each other, showing an
aggregate depth of fifty feet of solid coal; it is bituminous
and is harder, brighter and less smutty and odorous, burns
with a purer flame and leaves less residue than the coal from
Iowa and Illinois. Numbers of creeks in these regions abound
in trout of the finest quality. The tiniest rivulet swarms with
them and their speckled sides glisten in every eddy. They
weigh from one-fourth to two pounds and their flesh is as hard
as that of the mountain trout in Vermont.

Antelope, elk, black-tailed deer, bear, sage hens and grouse
abound- in the hills and on the plateaus. The angler, hunter or
tourist should never pass through Colorado without pausing long
enough to fly a hook and try his rifle. These regions have be-
come a favorite summer resort for travelers, possessing as
they do eminent attractions for hunting and fishing.

Denver, the enterprising western terminus of the Bur-
lington is a beautiful city of over 100,000 inhabitants, and an
exceedingly interesting city for all travelers to visit, by
reason of her rapid and solid growth, her magnificent business
blocks, hotels and theaters and handsome church edifices, her
extensive industrial establishments and vast commercial move-
ments and shipping relations between the Atlantic and Pacific
coast; two of the most beautiful and imposing peaks in Amer-
ica can be seen from the streets of this lovely western city, which
marks the western terminus of the far-famed Burlington route.

Cheyenne is the second western terminal point of this road,
situated on a broad open plain, while Crow creek winds around
on two sides of the city. The elevation is 6,041 feet above the
sea; it is 516 miles west of Omaha, Neb., and 1,260 miles
from Sacramento, Cal., and no miles from Denver. The land
rises on one side of the city slightly to the westward, while on

236 IOWA LEAVES.

the east it stretches awa}'' for miles apparently level. The soil
is composed of a gravelly formation with an average loam
deposit. The sub-soil shows volcanic matter mixed with marine
fossils in large quantities. The streets of the city are broad and
laid out at right angles and present a lively business appearance,
so the traveler feels that he has arrived at a city of more impor-
tance, enterprise and energy than he had calculated on. It con-
tains about 20,000 inhabitants and is the great central dis-
tributing point for vast countries in Wyoming.

New Castle is the most northwestern terminus situated in
the famous Black Hills, which lie between the north and south
forks of the Cheyenne river, which empties its waters into the
muddy Missouri above the famous city of Pierre, Dak. The
Black Hills district is noted for its rich mineral wealth and is
fast becoming an interesting region to the traveler and those
seeking homes in the great west.

Among other noted cities on the Burlington route are St.
Paul, Minn., and Winona, Minn.; Streator, Peoria, Galesburg
and Aurora, 111. ; Dubuque, Des Moines, Cedar Rapids, Daven-
port, Council Bluffs, Ottumwa and Creston, Iowa; Omaha,
Lincoln and Kearney, Neb.; LaCrosse and Prairie du Chien,
Wis.; Atchison and Leavenworth, Kan.; Kansas City, St.
Louis and St. Joseph, Mo., etc.

The agricultural resources of the great, vast region trav-
ersed by the Chicago, Burlington & Quinc}' railroad throughout
the above-mentioned states are the finest yet presented to the
gaze of an admiring world in any country under the sun.

Let us first take the state of Illinois, where Aurora,
Streator, Princeton, Peoria and Galesburg are situated. All
of these lovely cities are surrounded by a most beautiful and
fertile country. The farming region in this state cannot be

IOWA LEAVES. 237

surpassed on the continent and beautifully presents itself to the
eye of the traveler as it stretches away to the north and south,
merging into one broad, lovely expanse as the train flies along
at seemingl}'' lightning speed.

Corn, oats, wheat, rye and barley are the principal products
of the soil in this state, though corn is the principal crop, while
all the grains, grasses and fruits knov/n to the latitude grow
prolifically here, and by reason of the garden-like productive-
ness of its soil has attracted a large and intelligent settlement.

Aurora, the first city of interest which the traveler passes
"through after leaving Chicago, is a beautifully situated city only
thirty-seven miles from Chicago and is where some of the prin-
cipal shops of the great Burlington road are located. A branch
line passes from this city south to Streator and one north to
Turner and Geneva and on to Rockford.

The next city of interest is Mendota, a city full of enter-
prise and having a good location; soon we are at Princeton with
a lovely country surrounding her and now we roll along and
Galesburg is called out next, where a branch runs north to
Denrock, connecting with the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy,
which leads out of St. Paul and another branch leads south
to Bushnell and Beardstown and on to East St. Louis. The
next is Monmouth, city of colleges, and soon we cross the
great Father, of Waters and as we gaze down into the great
liquid depth from the huge iron bridge which spans its
course the following beautiful verse comes to us in all its
intensity:

Beautiful, proud, majestic Mississippi,

Parent of great cities,

Since God created heaven and earth

Thou hast traversed the deep

And mingled thy waters with the mighty seas.

238 IOWA LEAVES.

From the bridge, too, a magnificent view of the city of
BurHngton is had, called in pioneer days "Flint Hills," deriving
its name from being situated on three high hills, known to the
inhabitants of the city as north, south and west hills. The
city is beautifully situated on the left bank of the grand old
Mississippi and contains over 30,000 inhabitants and the ship-
ments from her numerous manufactories reach over large terri-
tories of country. She controls an elegant system of water-
works and an excellent electric arc light plant, while her busi-
ness blocks are tall, stately and solidly built. Her streets are
paved with a durable quality of vitrified brick and granite and
the finest street railway system in the state is now in operation
and Burlington has at last, after all these years, "put the
little mule away." The union depot, on South Main street, is
a model structure, built of pressed brick.with handsome lime-
stone trimmings and is an ornament to the city and an everlast-
ing credit to the Burlington system.

The business portion of this lovely city lies in the valley,
while handsome residences adorn the hills and elegant churches
and school buildings are seen on every hand.

This city has large business interests, which extend over
the several adjoining states, bringing in large returns.

Although Burlington never has a "boom," she marches on
quietly to success and is steadily advancing, reaching out a little
further all the time, cautious, but growing richer and richer in
her advantages, while the luxuriant country surrounding the
city is rich in all the great agricultural resources known to our
state. Branch lines of the "Q." run north and south from here,
reaching Minneapolis in the north and St. Louis in the south.

West Burlington is a citv of itself and has assumed larofe
proportions in the last three years, having been of rapid and

IOWA LEAVES. 239

solid growth. The largest and most thoroughly equipped shops
of the Burlington S3'stem are located here, built of solid brick
with strong and durable walls and furnished throughout
with all the new improved machinery necessary for the work-
ing of all the branches of car and locomotive construction.
These shops present a lively scene when about i,ooo sinewy-
armed men are busily engaged in repairing and manufacturing
cars and engines. The foundry, blacksmith 's shop, store rooms,
car and paint shops are all commodious buildings and are a
credit to the' state of Iowa and the Burlington system.

West Burlington is an incorporated village and contains
about 3,000 inhabitants, the population being chiefly famihes
connected with the shops. Comfortable churches and school
buildings have been erected and we predict a prosperous future
for this pretty village.

The next city of interest is Mt. Pleasant, county seat of
Henry county, containing about 4,000 inhabitants and situated
in the midst of one of the finest agricultural regions of the state
and where the handsome State Insane Asylum is located. A
north and south branch of the great Burlington road extends
out from this lovely city, passing through a rich and fertile
country. On we go and soon we enter Jefferson county, whose
name and fame ranks high among the ninety and nine in Iowa.
Fairfield is the county seat of this county, beautifully situ-
ated and a city of pleasant homes, handsome churches, excel-
lent schools and is where Parsons College is located, the leading
Presbyterian institution in the state.

Our next stop is at Ottumwa — the "Lowell" of Iowa and
metropolis of the coal palace regions — and as we pull into the
handsome Burlington depot my mind wanders back to the scene
of thirty-four years ago and I find myself drawing comparisons

240 IOWA LEAVES.

between the passenger service of then and now. What mag-
nificent changes old father time has wrought in the passenger
service of our country in the past twenty years and especially
is this fact demonstrated on the Burlington S3'stem.

Ottumwa and her surrounding country have been minutely
described in another portion of this book, so we proceed to
Albia, county seat of Monroe county, where a branch line
extends northwest to the state capital city, passing through a
beautiful and wealthy country rich in coal and agriculture. Des
Moines, the capital of the state of Iowa, has over 65,000
inhabitants and is situated in the fertile valley of the peaceful
Des Moines river, almost in the central part of the state. The
first object which greets the eye of the traveler as he enters this
-city is the magnificent dome of the handsome state capitol
building. It is a conspicuous landmark indeed, and one of the
most sublime designs known to architecture in our United
States is Iowa's state capitol, of which she is justly proud.

There is no city in the west which has advanced as rapidly
in its growth as this one; her streets are broad and level and
lined with elegant and durable buildings. Fine hotels, lovely
churches and handsome homes make it also a very fine residence
city. A full and complete description of this city is given in
the sixth chapter of this book with fine illustrations.

The next place of interest on the main line of the Burling-
ton route is Chariton, county seat of Lucas county; it marks
the eastern border of the famous blue grass regions of south-
western Iowa and is also one of the most beautiful and pro-
ductive in the state.

The Burlington has a branch line running from here to
Des Moines via Indianola and one south to St. Joseph, Mo.
Chariton is beautifully situated. A full description of the city

IOWA LEAVES. 241

and country appears under the head of " Beauties of the Blue
Grass Regions."

Onward, westward, and our next halt is at Osceola, county
seat of Clarke county, also situated in the grreat blue crrass
belt and an exceedingl}' rich and fertile one.

From Osceola we proceed to Creston, county seat of
Union county, the blue grass palace city, which contains over
8,000 inhabitants. This city is situated on the highest crest
between the Mississippi and Missouri rivers, 190 miles west of
Burlington and no miles east of Omaha, Neb. There are
two branch lines passing from here, one north to Cumberland,
in Adair county, and one south to St. Joseph, Mo. A full
and complete description of this city and county is given in
"Beauties of the Blue Grass Regions."

The next stop is at Corning, county seat of Adams county,
one of the richest in agricultural and mineral products in the
blue grass regions of Iowa, a description of which appears in
another chapter of this book.

Valisca is the next station, situated in Montgomery county,
amid one of the finest farming regions of the state.

A branch line runs south from Valisca to Clarinda, county
seat of Page county and where the new State Insane Hos-
pital is located. The county is famous also among those
comprising the blue grass regions of southwestern Iowa, and
cannot be surpassed in the raising of fine cattle for the market.

And now we halt at Red Oak, county seat of Montgomery
county, containing over 4,000 inhabitants and where the
handsome State Sanitarium is located. A branch runs from
here north to Ringgold in Cass county, and one south to
Shenandoah and Hamburg in Page county, thence to Kansas
City, Mo., via the Kansas City, St. Jo. & Council Bluffs rail-

242 IOWA LEAVES.

road. Montgomery county is situated in the famous wonderland
of southwestern Iowa, a full description of which also appears
in "Beauties of the Blue Grass Regions."

Hastings is the next principal station, situated in Mills
county, with two branches reaching out over as fine a stock
and agricultural region as the sun ever shone on. The south
branch runs to Sidney, county seat of Fremont county, while
the north branch passes north to Carson in Pottawattamie
county.

And now we enter famed " Queen Mills," and soon the
porter calls out Glenwood, county seat of Mills county. This
county is noted for its elegant fruit farms and embraces a large
portion of the southwestern Iowa fruit belt. The state institu-
tion for feeble minded children is located here with beautiful
grounds and the reader will find a minute description of the
county and institution in the third chapter of this book.

Our next place of interest is Council Bluffs, county seat of
Pottawattamie county and situated at the foot of the bluffs
in the Missouri river valley, and about four miles from Omaha,
Neb. This lovely city contains about 25,000 inhabitants.
Council Bluffs is one of the oldest towns in the state; as early
as 1846 it was known as a Mormon settlement by the name of
Kanesville, which it retained until 1852, when the legislature
granted a charter designating the place as the city of Council
Bluffs. The explorers, Lewis and Clark, held a council with
the Indians here in 1804 and named it Council Bluffs.

Her railroad interests are almost identical with those of
Omaha. For a more complete history of this town and county
the reader is referred to "Beauties of the Blue Grass Regions."
We now cross the muddy Missouri river at Plattsmoiith
and we are in the state of Nebraska, and on our way to

IOWA LEAVES. 243

Omaha, pride of the west. This city is situated on the
western bank of the great, deceptive Missoilri, on a sloping
upland, about fifty feet above high water mark, altitude
360 feet, and is a thrifty and beautiful city of wealth, culture
and refinement, containing about 100,000 inhabitants. The state
capital was first located here, but was removed to Lincoln in
1868. Omaha, though the first settlement made in Nebraska,
is a young city. In 1857 a few squatters settled here. In
1854 the Council Bluffs & Nebraska Ferry Company pur-
chased the land, now occupied by the cit}', and erected the
claim house afterward known as the St. Nicholas; about this
time the name of Omaha was given to the place and the town
improved steadily until 1859 when it commenced to gain very
rapidly, and its growth has been almost unparalleled; there are
many evidences of continued prosperity and future greatness.
Like Council Bluffs, it has a large area of fertile territory
tributary to it, and railroad connections with the east, west,
north and south with which to bring wealth to its business
firms. South Omaha is a city of itself, and the Union Stock
Yards are located here, with the most complete and successful
stock exchange in the great west.

We are now well along toward Denver and the Rocky
mountains and our first stop is at Ashland, where a branch of
the Burlington system extends north to Schuyler, situated on
the famous North Platte river; from thence we proceed to Lin-
coln, the beautiful capital city of the state of Nebraska, into
which four branches of the Burlington (aside from the main
line) enter. The main branch leads northwest to New Castle,
Dak. Another extends out to Columbia via David City, and
another to Harrington via Greeley Center to Brewster and
Butka.

244 IOWA LEAVES.

Lincoln is a lovel}^, enterprising city of about 50,000
inhabitants, beautifully located and a thorough, wide-awake
western city, surrounded by a most fertile and wealthy country.
Large i-ailroad shops are located here and the streets lined with
elegant blocks, while lovely streets, handsome churches and
pretty homes greet the e3'e on every hand.

From Lincoln we proceed on west to Hastings, Neb.,
another place where the Burlington has two well-equipped
branches of rail. The north branch extends to Aurora, Neb.,
while the south one passes to Red Cloud and Kearney Junction,
on the North Platte river.

The next place of interest is Holdredge, where the Chey-
enne extension of the "Q." route branches out to the northwest
in Wyoming. We roll on from Holdredge southwest to Oxford,
where the Burlington has a main line running to Atchison,
Kan., with branches passing south to Concordia, Oberlin and
St. Frances.

The next interesting station is Culbertson, where a branch
runs northwest connecting with the Chej'enne extension at
Holyoke, Neb.

On we go through numerous thrifty villages and fine agri-
cultural regions and soon we pull into the magnificent depot
in that far-away beautiful city, the background of which is the
most sublime that nature ever created — one which poets cannot
describe nor artists sketch. Denver, the metropolis of the
middle western country and western terminus of the great
Burlington route, is picturesquely situated near the eastern
base of the Rocky mountains, the famous backbone of the
American continent.

An open, rolling country surrounds this city, being the
outer border of that immense plain which stretches away to

IOWA LEAVES, 245

the waters of the deceptive Missouri river, 600 miles to the
eastward.

The tourist in making this romantic trip over the Bur-
hngton from Chicago to Denver may enjoy all the luxuries and
comforts of home life by taking passage in a Pullman palace
sleeping car. Here he is assured of refreshing sleep in a palace
by day as w^ell as by night. Of course, this will add to the
expense, but what of it.'* when we behold these elegant coaches
which accompany all through trains, fitted up complete with
mattress, pillows, blankets, clean bed linen, elegant curtains
and carpets. The toilet rooms are fitted with marble wash-
stands, towels, soap and handsome plateglass mirrors, leaving
nothing to be furnished by the passenger. Neither is it neces-
sary in the present age to purchase provisions to take along, as
excellent meals are served the traveling public right on the
train. What a convenience and improvement over the old way!

The traveler going over the Burlington from Chicago
to Denver steps up to the ticket office in Chicago and purchases
his ticket. He gives his trunk to a baggage-master and gets
for it a little piece of metal and sees and cares for it no more.
He steps aboard the handsome vestibule passenger train,
equipped with Westinghouse automatic air brakes, Janey coup-
lers, Miller platforms — in fact, the very finest-equipped passenger
train on the globe; the porter shows him his space in the
Pullman car. He takes his seat, pulls off his boots, puts on
his slippers, takes out his newspaper and his traveling cares are
at an end. Engineers and conductors change and he is passed
from one division to another and at night his seat becomes a
bed and he sleeps as quietly as if in his own bed at home. He
traverses beautiful prairies, passes over lovely brooks and rivers,
through forests, down steep hillsides, over broad plains, swiftly

246 IOWA LEAVES.

whirling over iron bridges, through beautiful cities and pictur-
esque villages, but he never leaves his parlor. If needs be, his
meals are brought to him where he sits and at length, after
about twent3'-two hours of pleasant traveling, in which he has
been in the hands of four different conductors and in the keep-
ing of several engineers, he is set down in the finest depot in
Denver.

He looks at the clock in the depot, compares it with the
time table in his hands and finds that his journey has been
accomplished with all the regularity and punctuality of the sun.
His little piece of brass is given to an express agent or a hack-
man and when he reaches his hotel the trunk which he surren-
dered in Chicago is in the hall awaiting him.

It seems a very simple business to the traveler, and, if
perchance through all this journey, he finds the dinner a little
cool, or the conductor on one part of his trip discourteous, or
the train stopped at any point in the long ride beyond his ex-
pectations, or the arrival at his destination delayed a second
be3^ond the appointed time, he is very apt to grumble inwardly,
if not vocally.

How much money has been put into this long line of rail !
How much has been lost in unsuccessful experiments ! How
many sleepless nights have surveyors and contractors spent in
providing this marvelous highway! How intricate and in-
volved is the system of co-partnership that is necessary to such
a continuous transportation without change of cars ! What a
gigantic undertaking it is to administer this S3'stem with its
thousands of employes! How wide-awake the conductor and
engineer have been that the traveler may sleep ! What dangers
they have had to face that he may ride in safety! Of all this
he is unconscious if not absolutely ignorant. The management

IOWA LEAVES. 247

of such a system as the BurHngton in the hancUing of thousands
of trains without clashings or coUisions requires executive
abihty of the very highest order.

If, sir, you think it easy, count up the difficuhies you have
with 3'our "Irish" gardener in the administration of your country
place, then multiply those difficulties by 15,000 and you have
solved the problem of an American railroad president.

Aside from the excellent passenger service which the
Burlington gives the traveling public is the careful and system-
atic handling of her freight trains. The freight service is also
perfect in every detail and especially has it been demonstrated
to the shippers of the east and west. The finest-equipped
palace stock cars ever constructed are being placed by the
company at the disposal of all who ship stock over her lines,
the stock trains making passenger train time; therefore, stock
loaded in the blue grass regions of southwestern Iowa will
reach the Union Stock Yards in Chicago in from eighteen to
twenty hours after shipment.

I cannot lay this subject of the Burlington aside, nor con-
sider it finished, until I have paid a tribute to the lives and char-
acters of the faithful employes connected with its system.
Composed of as fine a body of men as are found in the train
service of any road in America, brave, heroic, intellectual,
courteous and kind, hospitable, charitable and liberal toward all
with whom they may become associated and always faithful in
the discharge of every duty required of them. Passenger and
freight trains roll on from one division station to another,
through the cold, disagreeable storms of winter and the intense
heat of the summer time, within the faithful, cautious keeping
of these valued and trusted employes. The conductor walks
through his train and looks after the safety and convenience of

2i8 IOWA LEAVES.

the passengers who have been intrusted to his care, affording
them all the comforts within his power; he receives his orders,
reads them over carefully and governs his train accordingly;
wide-awake, his nerves strained for an emergency, should one
present itself; his train curves in and out, up hill and down,
across babbling brooks and rivers; through forests and wide
stretching plains; and at last the train steams into the station,
which marks the end of his division; and the great responsibil-
ity under which he necessarily has labored during the past
fifteen or twenty hours is 'thrown aside until called again to
pass through the same trying ordeal.

Engine driving, every one will agree in truth, is very tr3dng
on the mind and no one who has not ridden on the engine of a
fast express by night can imagine how trying it is; as a rule,
with rare exceptions, the engineers of the Burlington system
are a noble, faithful, true body of men, always ready to sacrifice
themselves to save their train. The true ens^ineer is a man of
ready resources and quick instinct, a man that is stimulated
not dazed by emergencies. He stands by his post of duty
without flinching, looking ahead; his eyes pierce into the
inky darkness of night as his hand holds the throttle,
always ready for an emergenc}', should it come, while the
fireman shovels the black diamonds ; although the task grows
burdensome, for it is a hard one, he is going toward home,
and as he realizes this fact he throws the coal with seemingl}^
redoubled energy and he is heard singing that sweet old song
so full of love and sung the wide world over, "Home, Sweet
Home."

Conductors of freight trains on any road have the most
intricate duties to perform in the railway service; therefore, they
must be men of large experience and on them depends a large

IOWA LEAVES. 249

share of the excellent freii^ht service which the Burlinsfton
gives the public along its numerous lines.

And last but not least is the brakeman. Will the world
ever condescend to take into consideration and appreciate the
very important part which he performs in the railway service,
occupying as he does the most dangerous position, though brave
and heroic? How many of these noble-hearted fellows have
met an untimely death beneath the cruel wheels that speed along
over the iron rails; snatched from their post of duty, as sud-
denl}-, sometimes, as the lightning flash, and there are alwa3's
fond hearts, touched b}' sympathy and love, which go out to-
^vard this class of railway employes, who are struggling to
'climb the ladder, the top of which can only be reached by faith-
ful persistence and honest endeavor.

PART FOUR

SOUTHEASTERN IOWA

A ROMANCE OF THE COAL PALACE REGION AND
COAL PALACE AT OTTUMWA, IOWA.

CHAPTER I.

A ROMANCE OF KING COAL.

Two centuries or more ago, about fifty miles west of
where the quiet, picturesque Des Moines river empties its
-waters into the deep channels of the great Mississippi, in south-
eastern Iowa, was the scene of many strange and romantic
adventures. A number of Indian villas^es were scattered alonsf
the banks of the peaceful Des Moines for miles, which Long-
fellow describes as the home of Hiawatha, the noble chief of
the Ojibways. Moin-gue-na, the name of this village, is sug-
gestive of the name Des Moines and contained in those da3's
more people, a greater number of wigwams, brave warriors,
the greatest number of daring hunters and lastly, the most
beautiful Indian maidens under the sun.

This villasfe was situated in the midst of a beautiful forest
overlooking the river above named and was surrounded by a
most luxuriant and fertile country, which gave rich returns to
the rude husbandry of the red men. The hillsides and river
banks in those days were covered with wild fruits and grapes
and the forest and prairie abounded in wild game. Naught
disturbed the quiet waters of the peaceful Des Moines save
the ripple of a birchen canoe or the dip of the swallow as it
skimmed the wave. All nature seemed to lapse in a dreamy
repose, while the rich autumnal sunlight threw a mellow hue
over the whole scene. The hum of the insect was strangely
audible and smoke floated lazily out on the still air from the

253

254 IOWA LEAVES.

numerous wigwams in the village of Moin-gue-na, the home
of a savage race of people.

The air is laden with the perfumed leaves of the forest,
while the mild winds of the Indian summer dim the landscape
with a hazy softness which thickens the blood of the aborigine
as he sleeps in his rude wigwam unconscious of the mag-
nificent scenery surrounding him in the beautiful early morning.
Scarcely had the rays of the soft, mellow sunlight removed the
dews of heaven from the fields and prairies when Hiawatha
arose from his bed of deerskins and threw aside the bearskin
curtain from in front of his wigwam and slowly advanced down
a narrow path leading to the water's side, where he seated him-
self beneath the spreading branches of a large forest tree. Cast-
ing his eyes over the shining waters and surveying the fertile
prairies stretching back of the level, he exclaims unto himself:
"Our lands are broad and fertile, while our corn is beautiful in
the ear and ready for the harvest ; our tobacco has never grown
so luxuriantly before as we see it to-day; and our forests are
full of the bison, red deer and bear. The quail whistles on
the prairie and the wild duck rears her brood unscared in the
reedy inlet, while the tranquil waters of this river, which flows
before the doors of our wigwams, are filled with fish at all
seasons of the year.

" Surely the Great Spirit of the universe has been good in
the giving of all these multiplied blessings, and still my people
are discontented and unhappy. Many days have our hearts
been sorrowful. For, lo ! in the hazy distance we can see
another thrifty and prosperous race of people, who will soon
traverse these broad domains and >vill take possession of the
beautiful land which has been our home, lo! these many years.
We will be driven to the far west, even beyond the Rocky

IOWA LEAVES. 255

mountains, which He so near sundown. We will be scattered
to the four winds and the Great Spirit who smiles on us to-day
will turn his face from my people to those of the coming race.
The arrow and the tomahawk will cease to do their work and
the rude wigwam will give place to the elegant home of the
pale-face chief. Where our corn and tobacco grow to-day will
be seen fields of golden grain and the waving yellow corn of
the white man will supplant that which our squaws have
grown, lo! these many moons, and the same gentle showers
that have watered our fields all these years will sprinkle
those of the white race in the years to come.

"These forests will ring with the shrieks, of a huge monster
on iron wheels, which will slay everything in its path and make
the earth resound with thunder and leave in its track streaks
of lightning. Great cities will grow up on the banks of
this river where I am sitting to-day in the mists of morn-
ing. The hum of factories and the noise of mills will silence
forever the cry of the wild beast which roams to-day in our
forests.

"Hark! I hear a mighty race of people. I can see them
coming in the haz}^ distance and can hear the busy tramp of
millions coming to inherit our homes, our lands, our broad,
fertile prairies and lovely rivers. All these beautiful things
which the Great Spirit has given us will become theirs and we
will be driven from our abodes in the forest to become a race
of wandering nomads. Through the cold storms of winter and
the heat of the summer-time we shall wander from place to
place. The earth will become our nightly resting-place and
the moon and stars our only covering. Bitter, bitter these
facts which I must soon portray to my people," and the great
chief bowed his head and melted into tears.

256 IOWA LEAVES.

He does not hear the dry leaves rustle in the forest nor see
a beautiful, dark-eyed maiden, whose feet skim a narrow, rug-
ged path leading down to the water's side. On her left arm is
a basket, for she is the arrow-maker's daughter, Wild Flower,
coming forth to greet the morning. Her dark eyes rest on the
noble form of the chief as he sits beneath the spreading
branches of the tree beside the gentle waters in the early
morning. She casts a troubled look about her, for this chief is
her lover and she sadly sings and sighs unto herself. "Why, oh,
why, these tears! All the air is full of the freshness of morn-
ing, our earth is joyous and bright, while above us shine the
heavens. Beautiful spreads the river before us. On its margin
are lovely forests, while the shadows of the tree-tops are
motionless on the waters.

"The blue bird and the robin sing for you and for me and
where'er our footsteps wander the meadows wave with blos-
soms; the woodlands are ringing with music and the trees are
turning dark with foliage. Come, Hiawatha," cries the dusky
maiden, and the chief slowly arises from his seat on the river
bank, and advances toward the Wild Flower of the forest and,
taking her hand in his, looks deep into the dark, lustrous eyes
and tells her how he loves her and of his morning vision — tells
her of the canoes with pinions containing people with white
faces — some with beards; saw them coming in wooden vessels
from the regions of the morning — from the shining lands of
Wabun. Gitche Manito, the mighty, the Great Spirit our
Creator, has sent them to us on an errand with a message to
my people and wherever they move the honey makers move
before them, and wherever they tread beneath their feet springs
up a flower, called the white man's blossom. Gitche Manito,
the mighty, has told us in this vision to welcome the strangers

^ 5

IOWA LEAVES. 257

and give them our heart's right hand of friendship. I beheld,
too, in this vision all the secrets of the future and what
our distant days shall be. I beheld the westward marches
of the unknown crowded nation. All the land was full of
people, restless, struggling, toiling, striving, speaking many
different tongues, yet one heart beats in all their bosoms.
The woodlands rang with their axes and smoke floated
out on the air from prosperous towns in all these valleys;
over all rivers rushed canoes of thunder. In the hazy dis-
tance, in the mists of morning, while sitting on the banks
of this same river,

I have seen a great big structure,
Built of huge, great blocks of coal,
And its walls are shining, glistening
As the sun's rays fall upon it —
Shine like diamonds, shine like dewdrops.
As the moonlight falls upon it.

Black and mighty are its steeples
As it looms up in its darkness.
And the king who reigns within it
Sprung from out the earth's rich bosom-
Rich in all his dark, black splendor,
Rules the people with great wonder.

Makes them rich in golden shekels;
Builds he homes for rich and poor;
Built he, too, great iron railroads;
Put the mighty cars upon them,
Which seemed floating and then flying
To the race who rode upon them.

To the busy mills he furnished
All the fuel for their fires,
Makes the steam for iron horses.
Warms the wigwams of the poor man.
Warms the homes of all the rich men,
Sending gladness everywhere.

258 IOWA LEAVES.

Then the noble chief told the Wild Flower of the forest,
the arrow-maker's daughter, of another darker, drearier vision,
which he said passed before him clouded in mystery.

He beheld his nations scattered, all forgetful of their coun-
cils, weakened and warring with each other. He had seen the
remnant of his people sweeping westward, wild and woeful, like
the cloud rack of a tempest, like the withered leaves of autumn.
"Wild Flower," said the noble chief of the Ojibways, "let uS
go forth to the village of Moin-gue-na and bid farewell to all our
people. Let us tell them that we are going on a long and distant
journey, that many moons and many winters will have passed
by before we see them again, that the people who shall come
from the distant land of Wabun will speak unto them words of
wisdom, and they must listen to the truths they will tell them,
for the Master of Life has sent them from the land of light and
morning," and Hiawatha turned and waved his hand at parting,
and on the clear and luminous water he launched his birch canoe
for sailins:, and with the beautiful Wild Flower of the forest he
shot out into the river, whispering to her, "Westward! west-
ward ! " and the biixh canoe darted forward with great speed.

And in the evening when the sun went down behind the
Rocky mountains in the far west, it seemed that the clouds were
on fire, so red was the sunset. It burned broad like a prairie
fire. There was a long track and trail of splendor reflected on
the water as the Indian chief Hiawatha and the forest maiden
sailed onward, westward, in their birch canoe, sailed into the
fiery sunset, sailed into the purple vapor, sailed into the dusk of
evening.

CHAPTER II.

A number of years ago in September, on the banks of the
same quiet, peaceful Des Moines river in southeastern Iowa,
where the village of Moin-gue-na stood amid the forest several
centuries ago when the great Indian chief Hiawatha had his
vision in the mists of morning, was a small village called
Ottumwa, named for a savage race of people.

There were onl}' a few scattered cabins on the hillsides
and along the river banks, homes of the early settlers, while the
surrounding countr}^ was dotted with the rude homes of the
frontier farmers. On one beautiful September morning all the
people from these sparsely settled regions surrounding this vil-
lage could be seen slowly making their way in old-fashioned
lumber wagons through the forests, out over prairies, across
babbling brooks and rivers, toward this village. From Mis-
souri's hills and valle3's came also a flowing tide of people, with
their "whoa! haws!" resounding through the forests, while the
blows from the butt of the whip fell on the sides of the patient
oxen, as they traveled on toward the village of Ottumwa.

From the valley of the Missouri river, which marked the
w^estern boundary of our great state, they came and from the
far northwest, to witness scenes which were to be enacted here
for the first time, which marked a golden era in the history of
Ottumwa and southeast Iowa.

The Burlinsrton & Missouri river railroad had been com-
pleted to the village, which marked its western terminus in those

259

260

IOWA LEAVES.

days. The last spikes had been driven and a grand free excur*
sion had been given by the management to the people of south-
east lowsL, and the writer, though young in years, was one of
the party who took advantage of cheap rates and went through

PRESENT VIEW OF OTTUMWA FROM COAL PALACE TOWER.

from Burlington on the first train that ever carried passengers
into Ottumwa.

This train consisted of a long string of flat cars, with a
temporary lattice built over each one, and covered with ever-

IOWA LEAVES. 261

green and limbs of forest trees, affording an excellent protection
from the sun's hot rays. These cars were seated with rough
wooden benches and crowded to overflowing. Crowds heralded
the coming of the train at every station. Old men and women
young men and maidens, all dressed in holiday attire, were ready
to climb aboard this train and enjoy a free ride, perhaps for the
first time in their lives, and mingled their voices with those who
had screamed themselves hoarse in "hurrahs" for the Burlins:-
ton & Missouri River railroad.

The village of Ottumwa was astir at an unusually early
hour on the morning of which we write, which was such a
morning as the one that looked upon the Indian chief Hia-
watha in the early morning in these same forests many, many
years before. People were rushing hither and thither in their
hurried excitement; the woods rang with mirth and music;
the fatted ox had been slaughtered, and the beautiful hillsides
were^'being prepared for the great feast and festivities of the
occasion. Railroad magnates were to meet with the popula-
tion of this section of country and sit down together under-
neath the branches of lofty timber and, like the Indian chief
of years gone by, tell of what the future was to bring forth
from the regions of the morning. They were united heart and
hand in this, the first great enterprise that ever reached their
rich and fertile country.

CHAPTER III.

Speeding along on the iron rails in the hazy distance is a
huge monster, which the Indian chief described as floating,
sometimes flying, making the earth resound with thunder and
leaving in its track streaks of lightning.

Fizzle, fizzle, squeak, ding, dong, rumble, rumble, hurry,
skurry, pufliing and rolling onward and westward, through
forests and over prairies, down steep hillsides and across beau-
tiful creeks and rivers, through the free, romantic, artless
country. Our noses scent the incense-laden breath of the
forest, whose bashful charms are enhanced by a thin veil of violet
haze, whose transparency stimulates the ardent glance of her
accepted lover, the sun. The whole party on board this roman-
tic train were as happy as if reclining on spring-cushioned, cut
velvet seats, realizing the luxury if not the poetry of motion.
The excursionists revelled in the perfumed atmosphere and
tender-tinted landscapes, diluted a little and the garishness
toned down by dense clouds of tobacco smoke, and expressed
their emotions in stenographic phraseology: "Fine day!" "Very!"
"Cigar .^" — "No, thank you; prefer a pipe." "What's in your
basket.^" — "Grub." "And in those bottles under the covering.?"
— "Cold tea and water." — ^"Ah! how very invigorating and
appetizing." As we fly along we see a region teeming with
intelligent industry, indicative of material wealth, with here
and there a thriving village. We had heard of these things
boastfully reiterated and were not disappointed, but we had in

262

IOWA LEAVES. 263

addition what we had never heard talked of: a succession of
the most beautiful scenic pictures that ever regaled the eye of
an artist or warmed the fancy of a poet; we do not remember
to have seen anywhere a panorama superior to the one we saw
on our first trip through southeast Iowa on this remarkable
excursion day.

As we glide smoothly and rapidly along, it is as enjoyable
as a sweet dream to watch how each vanishing picture is re-
placed by another equally as charming before you have time
to regret its passage. As we near our destination, the forests
grow more dense, and the hills grow wilder, and the prairies
more limited, and the scenery more charming, and soon the
jolly, jovial, good-natured, fat-faced conductor, who has tend-
ered more courtesies on this day than most any other man
could in a single life, screams: "Ottumwa!" which is echoed
through the hills and valleys by a hundred or more voices.
Crowds of people swarm along the tracks in this village to
greet the excursionists and to gaze for the first time on the
one-eyed Cyclop, which speeds on the iron rails, and are wild
in exultation and praise of the great Burlington & Missouri River
railroad. They view this huge monster in consternation and
wonder and a smile of delight is visible on many faces among
the amazed crowds, which for the first time look upon a rail-
road train.

The demonstrations were almost equal to those seen not
long since, when the President of the United States visited the
enterprising coal palace city.

Where the elegant residence portion of this city stands to-
day, on Court hill, were the scenes on this memorable excursion
day of an old-fashioned "barbecue". The fatted ox had been
well roasted and the delicious flavor of roast beef greeted the

264 IOWA LEAVES.

hungry excursionists, and to say that they did it ample justice
but vaguely expresses it.

The "old Burlington" did herself proud on this occasion
in the spreading of such a luxurious feast before the multitude,
who greeted their first entrance to the beautiful Eden of the
new world. The introduction was a grand success and will
always be remembered by the people of this section of country
and by all those who were fortunate enough to participate in
the sfreat historical event.

Let us note the progress of this village as it becomes a
city and the metropolis of southwest Iowa, and also of her
first great railroad, now known to the world as the Chicago,
Burlington & Quincy.

The rise of cities and their surrounding countries forms
an interesting element in the history of our state. The
advantages of nature and the demands of trade have attracted
mankind, and thousands of happy homes have arisen in the city
of Ottumwa and country from a wilderness and prairie. The
joys and sorrows, the hopes and cares of domestic life flow on
alike, whether in the valleys of the great Mississippi, or in
those of the Des Moines.

Factories spring up along their banks; the artisan and the
merchant seek their daily toil; parents train their children with
assiduous care; churches and schools have arisen, and genera-
tions labor for themselves and posterity. Great adversities
perhaps may fall on the crowded haunt, but years of prosperity
succeed and the city expands with redoubled energy, while the
river is already the parent of a city. The great Mississippi
ofave birth to a throne of cities which line its banks, and so
has the river Des Moines, and prominent among the enter-
prising cities of our state is the city of Ottumwa, standing to-

IOWA LEAVES.

265

day on the same spot and on the banks of the same peaceful
Des Moines, where the village of Moin gue-na stood centuries ago
and where the chief Hiawatha made his phophecy of what the
future would bring forth from the regions of the morning — a

UNION PASSENGER DEPOT, OTTUMWA.

proud monument of the enterprise and genius of the citizens

of southeast Iowa.

Smoke rolls out on the still air from numerous factories,
work-shops and mills, regular beehives of industry, and from
the homes of over 20,000 people.

266 IOWA LEAVES.

It can be safely said that no point west of the anthracite
regions of the east offers such inducements to manufacturers
as Ottumwa; in fact, the statement can be emphasized and we
declare that no point anywhere can possess superior advantages.
And this is because having the same natural resources and
equal railway facilities, they have the coigne of vantage in being
centrally located with reference to the great masses of population.

The wise statesmen of the last generation affirmed that
here in the center of this great Mississippi valley, midway of
the continent, was the future seat of empire. We have already
lived to realize that truism.

The manufacturer of the future must be able to supply
the consumers direct. His factory must be convenient to his
purchasers. The west will no longer pay freight carriage for a
thousand miles, where it can make the commodity itself. The
plow and reaper and pruning-hook which are to go into these
fields must be made here. The miner^s pick and drill must be
forged near the mine. The carriage for the townsman and the
wagon for the farmer will be made out of timber grown
upon our own bottom land and not in the forests afar. The
clothes we wear, the blankets we sleep under, the knives and
forks we eat with, the glassware and crockery upon our
tables, all these, and a multitude of other things, we will pro-
duce ourselves and not pay the distant manufacturers for. We
have coal seams under our feet that will supply our wants for
a thousand years and forests of the hardest woods, with clay
and sand that are unrivaled, with mighty rivers, nature's free
highways, and radiating lines of rails to cheaply bring to us
the products of other climes.

Ottumwa is in the center of the great Des Moines river
coal fields, which geologists declare are capable of producing

IOWA LEAVES. 267

3,000,000 tons a year for a thousand years. The city is vir-
tually built upon the inexhaustible beds of bituminous fuel laid
down in Ottumwa from the adjacent mines; this coal sells at
70 cents a ton for steam purposes. It is proportionately
cheap in all the other grades and it is the best bituminous
coal mined anywhere. The fact needs to be known to the
struggling manufacturer or artisan of the east who, looking
into the great west with its promise of inevitable supremacy,
longs to cast his lot among its people and plant his capital, his
skill, his ingenuity and his energy where they will have just
reward.

How true the prophecy of Hiawatha centuries ago of what
the future should bring forth to the valley of the Des Moines
river in southeast Iowa! and to-day we look upon the great
" Lowell" of Iowa, which has been of rapid and solid growth.
During the past year she has paved with vitrified brick about
two miles of her principal streets and this work, which was
done in the most thorough and permanent manner, will be
rapidly extended hereafter. This makes the thoroughfares in
much of the business portion and the principal residence districts
models of their kind and a source of just local pride.

A magnificent system of waterworks covers the entire
city, six miles of new mains having been laid during last year.
A paid fire department in connection with this system reduces
to a minimum the danger of loss by conflagration. The city
has three miles of electric railway, on which are operated
the finest cars Pullman's great shops turn out. This monu-
mental system practically brings all parts of the city into close
community of interest and makes distance no longer a factor
to the suburban resident. The old-fogy system of horse cars,
with their uncertain time and indifferent service, seems anti-

268

IOWA LEAVES.

quated beside this splendid service, for it is a luxury and not a
vexation to travel in elegantly-upholstered, perfectl3'-heated and
brilliantly-lighted cars, which can readily travel at the rate of
twenty-two miles an hour on a level. The same enterprising
company which operates the electric street car system supplies
the city with incandescent and arc electric lights and the general
use of these gives the streets, stores and dwellings a cheerful air
at night. The most notable achievement of the company, how-
ever, is their extensive system of steam supply.

JOHNSON RUFFLER WORKS, OTTUMWA.

Even to many people who reside in our state the diversity
of our local products is unknown. In the great Johnson RufHer
works in this city about 550 employes are busy turning out a
great variety of metal work, which goes into millions of homes
all over the world. In the huge starch works of this city our
state's greatest crop is transformed into the fine product which
is absorbed in the arts as well as by the housewife's necessities.

IOWA LEAVES. 269

In the packing-house of John Morrell & Co. 500 men are
busy day by day with the intricate processes by which such a
large share of the world^s meat supply is produced. Here is a
great factory turning out an infinite variety of drills and tools
for miners' uses, a factory which, by the merit of its product,
has almost eliminated competition.

In another great industrial establishment iron bridges are
constructed and these structures, made in forges of our own,
span a thousand streams.

Ottumwa has great boiler works, machine shops, linseed
oil mills, flouring mills, carriage, cigar, box and wood-working
factories in all their varieties. The cutlery works is another
large establishment and the goods, having the advantage of
exclusive machinery, are of intrinsic merit and command
wide sale.

There are a hundred other profitable institutions in which
technical skill evolves from the raw material the finished
product; for instance, cigars, more of which are made in
Ottumwa than in any other city in the west. Great cooperage
interests flourish; local houses handle the butter and egg product
of the country within 100 miles, etc.; in addition to these
interests, which furnish constant and remunerative employment
to skilled labor, it is not unimportant to note that the railways
centering here employ more than 1,000 men, whose homes are
in Ottumwa.

Old Father Time has been lavish in the distribution of his
gifts throughout the coal palace city of Ottumwa, the ''Lowell"
of Iowa, and when we note the great strides which even the
old "Burling-ton & Missouri River" has made since her first
introduction to the people of southeast Iowa we are indeed
astonished. So elegant has she become in her equipments and

270

IOWA LEAVES.

SO handsome is the new, commodious brick depot which she
occupies in West Ottumwa, with its beautiful trimmings of
Hmestone, that we hardly recognize her as the same in all this
magnificent array of splendor.

NEW POSTOFFICE BUIT.DTNG, OTTUMWA.

A handsome government postottice built of brick masonry
on a solid stone foundation is an ornament to this city and is
one of which all true Ottumwans are justly proud. Commodious
brick business blocks have taken the place of frames, and with

IOWA LEAVES. 271

wide, paved streets, electric street-cars and large business inter-
ests Ottumwa has become the best city in the state. Elegant
churches of all denominations, handsome school buildings, with
as fine a school system as is found in the great west, beautiful
homes and a prosperous and aristocratic class of citizens make
her also one of the finest residence cities in the world.

This city is divided by the picturesque Des Moines river,
and South Ottumwa is a city by itself, having assumed large
proportions within the past six years. A handsome and dura-
ble wajjon and foot bridg^e across the river connects the north
and south sides. From the handsome, illustrated Christmas
number of the Ottumwa Daily Courier we take the following:

"The industrial exchange is a vigorous progeny of new
commercial life in the coal palace city. It is an association
comprising some 125 of the active and influential business men
of the city and the work mapped out for itself is to benefit
Ottumwa.

"Among the methods for the accomplishment of this pur-
pose will be the judicious advertising of the city abroad through-
out the state and nation, correspondence with capitalists and
manufacturers with a view to inducing them to locate here, the
encouragement of a united local sentiment in business circles
and the improvement of the city. 'No bonuses' is the motto
of the association. Ottumwa does not have to offer such
inducements, because its natural advantages are of themselves
so great as to assure the success of almost any well-managed
manufacturing enterprise. But it is probable that available
sites would be provided for those who desire to plant indus-
trial establishments here.

" It is also the plan of this exchange to hold monthly lunches
at one of the hotels, at which a program including addresses

272 IOWA LEAVES.

and some subject of current commercial interest will be included.
These meetings will draw the merchants together and stimu-
late them to united action. The list of members is complete and
it is a superb company of progressive, intelligent, wide-awake
and liberal business men.'"

The coal palace region of southeast Iowa is of vast extent;
it embraces the whole of the southeastern portion of the state
and comprises the following counties: Marion, Mahaska, Keo-
kuk, Washington, Louisa, Des Moines, Henry, Jefferson,
Wapello, Monroe, Davis, Van Buren and Lee.

The climate of this region is peculiarly adapted to vege-
tation and the country has immense resources of every kind,
while in practical skill and sagacity the people are fully compe-
tent to use every advantage. In this light she presents herself
to the world; in this attitude her people stand toweringly up
before the gaze of the nation.

She is a grand example of energy — intellectual, creative^
resistless energy. Her pride has been in work; her demonstra-
tions have been work. Labor, as one of the original institu-
tions of God's wisdom, has been certified and confirmed. Her
true symbols have been the ax, the pick, the plowshare and
the steam engine. She has magnified labor. Psalms of thanks-
giving have celebrated her triumph and raptures of imagina-
tion have eulogized its wonders. It has been garlanded and
crowned. Nowhere else has labor vindicated its intrinsic value
on so vast a scale, in such transcendent connections, with such
significant fruits; nowhere else has it reached the maximum of
its utility and adorned itself with so much of the beauty of a
spiritual sentiment.

Coal abounds in rich, thick veins in these regions in great
quantities and the products shipped over large territories of

IOWA LEAVES.

273

country beyond our state. The homes of its farmers are com-
fortable and great herds of well-fed stock greet the eye of the
traveler in every direction.

Wheat, oats, corn, barley, rye and millet, timothy, blue
grass and clover, broom corn and sorghum yield large returns
every 3'ear and all varieties of garden vegetables grow prolific-
ally in this section of country.

W. T. HARPER S RESIDENCE, OTTUMWA.

Beautiful rivers, brooks, streams and springs steal their way
through all portions of this Eden, affording an excellent supply
of pure water, while the drainage is unsurpassed in the state.
The climate is all that is desired by those living here and very
inviting to all who wish to make their homes in the great west
— neither too warm in summer nor too cold in winter. Seldom
is there a day too cold for teaming or working in the timber.

271 IOWA LEAVES.

In an ordinary season, June, July and August will make a heavy
crop of corn and there are usually two months to spare in grow-
ing a crop. Market gardeners raise two crops on the same
ground in one season of several kinds of vegetables. Every-
thing grown in this latitude has plenty of time for maturing.
The average rainfall is abundant for making good crops and the
variation is not enough to prevent the farmer from raising a
great deal of food, both for man and beast. Every advantage
combined with plenty of pure water, abundant timber, loamy
soil, cheap fuel and an enterprising, industrious and educated
people make a haven of rest for those seeking homes in Iowa.
The prairies in these regions are dotted with neat white
churches, which indicate a Christian people, while comfortable
school-houses greet the eye in every district.

The shipping facilities of this section are equal to any in
the west, when we consider that five great trunk lines with
numerous branches traverse her broad expanse.

The great number of cars of cattle, hogs, horses and sheep
shipped from these regions every year to other markets are
astonishing and foot up very large sums of money. There is
no country on the continent so well adapted for the raising of
stock than the coal palace regions of southeast Iowa, while the
dairy product excels that of any other region in the state and
the cheese grade equals the best in the world, showing that
neither the quality of the blue grass nor the skill of the manu-
facturer is wanting. In fact, these regions rival Kentucky in tine
stock and blue grass western resources for cheese, Pennsyl-
vania for fuel, Illinois for corn, California in the excellence of
fruits and are right up in the ranks in all the other temperate
zone products of the soil. Her people are cheerful and happy
and every year confirms their faith that this is the best country

IOWA LEAVER. 275

in the world for the agriculturist, the horticulturist, the coal
operator and the grower of stock. Here is a field as rich in
opportunities as any region on the face of the globe for manu-
facturing most of the goods and wares now in use. There could
scarcely be a more desirable locality than southeast Iowa with
its cheap fuel, cheap provisions and abundant water supply.

Oh the banks of this same river

I behold a mammoth structure,

Built of huge great blocks of coal.

All its walls are shining, glistening,

As the sun's rays fall upon it.

Shines like diamonds, shines like dewdrops,

As the moonlight falls upon it.

In the extreme western portion of this cit}', on the north
bank of the peaceful Des Moines river, near the handsome Chi-
cago, Burlington & Quincy depot, stands a magnificent struct-
ure, a monument t o the genius and industry of the citizens of
Ottumwa and her surrounding country, who by their efforts of
energy and an earnest determination of will power have shown
thousands what they can do as a united city and country.

This very unique black diamond structure cost $28,000
which was raised by private subscription among the enterprising
citizens of this city, who are a free, generous and liberal-minded
body of men, not afraid to venture into anything that looks to
the advancement of their city and country. Their silver and
gold do not lie idle in the musty vaults of banks and they are
always on the alert, ready to grasp an enterprise such as the
coal palace has demonstrated with rich returns.

Thousands have come and gone and have left gratifying
words of praise for the Coal Palace Association and the city of
Ottumwa who so nobly entertained them during their sojourn
in the city. Ottumwa has been well advertised all over the
United States and will next year present the people with a far

<■
<

<
o
u

IOWA LEAVES. 277

more elaborate display of enterprise and genius than that of this
year, if such a thing is possible. It is indeed a massive build-
ing in architecture, design and finish, the central tower being
nearly 200 feet high, with ornamental turrets 266 feet long and
126 feet wide. The efficient officers and members of the Coal
Palace Association are men of indomitable energy and push and
to them we may ascribe a great deal of credit for the erection of
this magnificent structure and as having the very finest coal
palace and industrial exhibit under the sun.

The president of the Coal Palace Association of 1890 is
none other than Col. P. G. Ballingall, so well and favorably
known throughout our state, whose name has been closely
identified with the interests of this city for many years. Col.
Ballingall is a man of large heart, kind, hospitable, charitable
and liberal in ever3'thing, and noted among the leople of Iowa
as the great traveler, having not long since made a trip around
the world, and has visited all places of interest in our own and
in foreign countries and has recently departed to the land of
Corea, which lies off the southeast coast of Asia, to spend a few
months of recreation and pleasure. No doubt but that many
times during his absence in that country his mind will wander
to his far-awav home in the United States of America, and to
the city of his long home in the coal palace regions of south-
eastern Iowa, his "ain countree." When in the midst of soHtude
his mind's eye reflects on the Black Diamond structure, his
heart will yield to his home and city along the banks of the
peaceful Des Moines, where the Indian chief Hiawatha had his
vision in the early morn many, many years ago. Colonel, you
have not only won proud distinction, but national fame, by the
excellent manner in which you entertained the President of the
United States at the coal palace at Ottumwa in 1890.

278 IOWA LEAVES.

The next officer of the Coal Palace Association is Col.
Sam Flagler, the vice-president. Mr. Flagler is a man who
needs no introduction to the people of Iowa. He has been a
long resident of the state and of the city of Ottumwa and his
friends are legion. His close identity with the coal interests of
the state these many years has won for him both fame and dis-
tinction, not only in his own home city, but in all parts of the
country. Mr. Flagler is largely interested in the Flagler
mines in Marion county, this state, which are very successfully
operated, and the quiet, graceful manner in which he performed
his duties of officer in the Coal Palace Association and the zeal-
ous work put forth by him during the building of the palace
and also throughout the magnificent industrial exhibit prove
that this association was very wise in the selection of S. A.
Flagler for their vice-president.

Calvin Manning, the very courteous and gentlemanly sec-
retary and treasurer of the Coal Palace Association, is wide
and favorably known to the citizens of southern Iowa; a most
talented lawyer and speaker, whose fame ranks high among the
noted lawyers who compose the Iowa bar; a man of wonderful
versatility and fine powers as an orator, who has done much
toward the upbuilding of his city and country. His efforts of
genius were clearly demonstrated by the excellent judgment
displa3'ed in the handling of all business connected with the Coal
Palace Association of 1890, and many of the laurels which
crowned its success rest greatly on the most distinguished
lawyer of southeastern Iowa.

Now, reader, have you made up your mind to accompany
me on another long and interesting journey? This time it will
be through the coal palace regions and palace of southeastern
Iowa, a romantic trip through the famous black diamond struct-

'Jfl

'<<

^^^^^mhl ^ ^ fl^Sffi ^H|pBMHI'*^^W

'280 IOWA LEAVES.

me. We feel quite sure that you will be both delighted and
interested in the most sublime trip and novel sights ever wit-
nessed by people in any country.

A PANORAMA OF THE COAL PALACE.

On entering this magnificent structure one is perfectly
amazed by the dazzling beauty of the interior decorations,
language being inadequate for the occasion. The immense size
of the building and novel decorations are a revelation. The
pillars and walls, railings and balustrades, rafters and ceilings,
are entirely hidden from view by exquisite arrangements of corn-
husks and grain, whole ears of corn split, sawed lengthwise, and
grains of corn, red and white shelled corn, blue squaw corn,
wheat, oats, rye, barley, millet, blue grass, timothy, clover, red
pop, feather grass, corn stalks, stalks of wheat, flax and buck-
wheat, all manipulated and arranged by the skillful hands of
numerous artists, making the whole one solid bower of regal
beauty and splendor. One hardly knows whether he is, in
reality, awake or dreaming, so wonderful and marvelous are the
interior decorations of the coal palace of 1890.

The distant dome above has the appearance of an inverted
wheat field whose golden grain is ready for the harvest. Con-
spicuous from the auditorium are two beautiful pieces of
decorative art. One is that of a large American eagle directly
above the stage, made entirely of grains of corn in the natural
color. Seemingly he has taken his flight from the scenes below
and has perched himself on a distant mountain, where he exult-
ingly looks down on a sea of happy human beings.

On the right, high up in the open court, is seen a beautiful
x\merican flag; the folds seemingly have fallen gracefully after
the battle has ended, suggestive of many hearts and homes

IOWA LEAVES. 281

made desolate. These two elegant pieces of work are greatly
admired by every person who gazes upon them.

A large number of other similar designs occupy very
prominent positions and are composed of the different varieties
of grasses and grains herein mentioned; all the exquisite shades
of bunting, from somber black to the creamiest of tints, are
used very profusely in the ceiling decorations, and in all the
numerous exhibits, which have the appearance of rich, shining
satins, puffed and gathered into all the novel shapes imagin-
able. "How astonishing!" we hear them exclaim, as they
gaze on the wonderful possibilities of decorative triumph, of
the every-day articles of life, fruits, vegetables, grasses and
grains, all arranged by skillful and artistic hands. The whole
building is thoroughly occupied with almost every beautiful
thinor under the sun and excels all other industrial and novel
expositions in Iowa this year, both in variety and interest.
There are thirteen counties in the coal palace regions, nine of
which are represented on the lower floor of the palace with an
excellent exhibit from the eighteen in the blue grass regions of
southwestern Iowa, while the mechanical exhibit occupies large
space on the lower floor on the west side. John Morrell & Co.'s
pork-packing establishment of this city occupies large space in
the extreme east portion of the building and F. INI. Sinclair &
Co. of Cedar Rapids occupy an elegant booth in the south-
east corner with a handsome display of their pork-packing in-
dustry. It seems that each has tried to make his exhibit the
most attractive, and the result may be imagined. The central
portion of the lower floor is occupied by a large stage and
auditorium which will seat comfortably 2,000 people and back
of this stage is where Niagara Falls is represented in all its
magnificent grandeur.

282 , IOWA LEAVES.

Rushing and roaring, fumeing and splashing,
Hurrying and scurrying, clashing and dashing,
Listening and glistening, shining and pining,
Falling and sprawling, roaring and soaring.

Twinkling and sprinkling, illustrative of the waters of Lodore.
Calcium lights from behind throw a rainbow into the falls, the
effect of w^hich is very beautiful indeed. A vast multitude have
looked upon this scene, which is so real that one almost imag-
ines oneself in the very face of Niagara. This waterfall per.
forms at intervals of fifteen minutes during the day and evening.
Each evening brought its attractions, concerts, speeches,
theatricals and toasts, but the great presidential hand-shake on
the evening of October 14 was the grand triumphal epoch of
the entire evening's performances. The gallery floor contains
the great Northern Pacific railroad exhibit. The Ottumwa
Daily Courier office, the Pi Beta Phi society and a number of
prominent business firms of the city are represented by fine
exhibits. The Des Moines plating works also have an elegant
display of their goods on this floor, while Dr. Lathrop's cabinet
of ancient relics draws large crowds every day.

BLUE GRASS REGION EXHIBIT.

We will now commence the interesting tour of the finest
coal palace in the world. Starting on the lower floor, our eyes
rest first on the blue grass region exhibit, which we will de-
scribe. This beautiful and novel display, which is situated in
the extreme southern portion of the building, on the right of
the stage and waterfall, comprises specimens from the eighteen
counties of southwestern Iowa and was placed in the coal
palace by the Blue Grass League of that section of country,
and they certainly have fully succeeded in making theirs one of
the drawing features of this great enterprise. The league

IOWA LEAVES. 283

appointed a commissioner to take charge of the exhibit from
the opening until the closing of the great exposition, and were
wise in their choice, for he stood bravely at his post of duty
day after day in honor of the great regions he represented.
October 14, when the President of the United States passed
through the palace, admiring the exhibits, he seemed greatly
pleased with the circulars handed him by the pleasant com-
missioner of the blue grass regions. The blue grass wagon,
which appeared in the presidential parade, was decorated by
this commissioner and two able assistants with the products of
their own country and was greatly admired by the people along
the line of march, and, aside from President Harrison himself,
attracted more attention than any other feature in the parade.
In the ceiling of this booth is a large star which forms a central
piece, made entirely of blue grass, with a handsome back-
ground, with frieze and border of other grains, representing
the star country of Iowa; back of this is a panel made of corn-
husks, in the center of which is shown the national colors with
a choice bunch of corn for a center-piece, while the panel is
fringed with corn tassels. The effect of this decoration is
admirable and elicits hearty expressions from all visitors. A
post in the center of the booth forms a foundation for an elabo-
rate pillar of grasses, at the top of which is a tine pair of Elk
antlers, made of ears of corn; surrounding this pillar is a pyra-
mid on which are exhibited an excellent variety of fruits that
abound in these regions, with a large supply of vegetables ; on
either side of the post hang two large bells, made of blue grass,
one with a clapper of corn and the other of squash. As we
proceed on our journey, the interest increases in the banner
county of southwestern Iowa, not only in its numerous fruits,
but in all the varieties of vegetables, grasses and grain. On

284 IOWA LEAVES.

the rear wall is a large flag, perfect in form and colors, made
entirely of corn-husks by the ladies of Osceola, Clark county,
and first placed on exhibition in the blue grass palace at Cres-
ton, Iowa, where it was seen and admired by Gov. Horace
Boies; it was taken by his request to the state fair at Des Moines
and from thence to the Ottumwa coal palace, having attracted
wide attention; it rests peacefully in the blue grass region ex-
hibit upon a background of oats, while above is the sign
in large letters "Iowa Blue Grass Region Palace Exhibit."
On either side of this flag are two very unique decorations —
one the picture of a horse, in life size, made of clover blossoms
and the other a picture of a fine Holstein animal, also life size,
made of seeds. A beautiful bale of blue grass occupies a promi-
nent place in the front part of the booth and is the only one in
the palace. The shorthorn cow, life size, made entirely of
blue grass heads, attracts more attention than I could tell in a
large volume. She has been quietly grazing here almost three
weeks in a veritable blue grass pasture, tied to a blue grass
post by a blue grass rope in the most real kind of reality. She
seems very gentle; therefore, we can hardly account for the
milk pail being turned over and the milk being spilled on the
grass. The milkmaid's stool lies idly by, while a little lamb
may be seen near-by sleeping in the same pasture, no doubt
dreaming of sports on the beautiful blue grass pastures in his
own country. All that is necessary to complete this scene
would be a pretty milkmaid from the blue grass regions to
occupy the stool. It is a picture for an artist and one greatly
admired by many thousand people passing through the palace,
and the questions asked by them of the commissioner concern-
ing this cow and pasture and the blue grass regions would make
a book. Adjoining the pasture are seen samples of their dairy

IOWA LEAVES. 285

products in firkins of rich, yellow butter and splendid samples
of cheese, for which the blue grass section is famous.

Prominent in front, pinned to a blue grass star, is a large
photograph of the blue grass palace at Creston, Iowa, which we
have described in full in another portion of this book. Many
questions were asked concerning it and particularly the time of
opening this year, many expressing a desire to attend. One of
the handsomest single pieces of limestone shown in the building
is a representation of a large tree devoid of limbs and branches
and was chiseled from the solid rock by Shaffer Bros, of Corn-
ing, Iowa, and is very expressive in telling the w^ealth of that
section in building material. These quarries are also mentioned
in the blue grass palace story.

The display of corn is very line in this booth; it is piled on
the floor in one corner, representing an old-fashioned husking
bee of the night before and the "fateful" red ears are numerous,
giving indications of the jolliest of parties. There are shown
fifty sacks of small grains from these regions in all their varie-
ties. The displays of native woods are original in design and
very fine, especially one collection made by a student of Tabor
College, in Fremont county, which shows seventy varieties.
Another display is of sections of large timber, arranged in two
imposing pyramids, while the exhibit itself is fenced on one side
with a rustic fence, constructed of eighty different kinds of
wood. Here are seen immense blocks of coal, indicative of her
resources in this respect. The display of vegetables is ver}^
fine. Even the Israelites on their trip of exploration to the land
of Canaan never found better — the cabbages, twenty varieties
of squashes and pumpkins, beets, melons, egg plants, peppers,
carrots, parsnips, onions and potatoes. There will never be a
famine so long as there is a blue grass region in southwesterni

286 IOWA LEAVES.

Iowa. The draperies which hang in front of this excellent
exhibit are made of corn and beans strung and crossed, forming
diamonds and are gracefully drawn aside with loops of blue
grass with very pretty effect. All in all, the blue grass region
exhibit is a very beautiful and interesting one. All honor,
profit and praise to the Blue Grass League, the committee
who placed it on exhibition in the coal palace and the accom-
plished commissioner or those who may have assisted in any
way in the placing of this wonderful drawing-card in the coal
palace of 1890.

Kind reader, we will now survey the coal palace regions of
southeastern Iowa, comprising thirteen of Iowa's most beautiful
counties, which are as follows: Van Buren, Wapello, Davis,
Marion, Jefferson, Mahaska, Monroe, Keokuk, Henry, Des
Moines, Louisa and Lee, which lie principally in the fertile
valleys of the Des Moines river. This exhibit occupies large
space in the great structure and each county has a separate
booth in which to make its display.

WAPELLO COUNTY.

Our first visit is to Wapello county, the home of the black
diamond palace. The commissioners in this booth take great
pains to give all visitors a history of this beautiful, fertile
country. The first object of interest which attracts our atten-
tion is the tempting display of canned fruits put up in glass
jars by Wapello's most excellent housewives. They are, in
fact, the most delicious that we have ever seen and the greatest
variety of peaches, pears, grapes, cherries, quinces, apples, rasp-
berries, blackberries, currants, gooseberries; in fact, all the fruits
known to the horticulturist in this climate. Two large squares
form the central pieces in this booth, which form the foundation

lOlVA LEAVES. 287

for the fruits, vegetables, grasses and grains, and display dec-
orative work for an artist ; directly over the first square is an arch,
on which the name " Wapello " is written in seeds, on a back-
ground of coal, while the word "county" over the second one
is made of corn on a backgrouud of the same material. These
center pieces are almost hidden from view by an elegant dis.
play of all fruits in season and garden vegetables manipulated
with lovely bouquets of flowers, grasses and grains ; the effect is
most charming indeed. This booth is directly opposite the
blue grass region exhibit and first to the right of the auditorium.
If the blue grass cow had been raised in Creston she would
have long ago opened the gates leading into Wapello's elegant
hanging gardens and feasted on all the good things from her
section of country ; being raised on blue grass pastures in the
free, romantic, artless country, she is not up to the tricks of her
sisters raised in " cow ordinance " cities. The words " coal
palace," made from the limbs of a crab-apple tree in the natural
growth, occupy a prominent place and are very rustic in appear-
ance; they are looked upon with wonder and admiration, while
we see the words underneath, "Wapello county," which are
formed of thirty-three pieces of wood, all native to the
county, showing the effects after being polished; a miniature
cord of wood and pile of lumber are prominent and attractive
pieces of handiwork and are constructed of wood native to
the county. The display of hydraulic cement stone from this
county and of an excellent quality of brick manufactured at
Eldon and Ottumwa are two interesting exhibits, indicative of
cheap building material. An excellent quality of coal is shown
in this booth, both for steam and domestic purposes, and taken
from mines within one mile of the city of Ottumwa. Coal is
so abundant in the coal palace region that nearly every farmer

288 IOWA LEAVES.

has a coal mine of his own within the compass of his farm.
The displays of grains and seeds in glass jars are a thing of
beauty and a joy forever to the hearts of Wapello county
farmers; by these he counts the golden sheckels. The linseed
oil mills of the city of Ottumwa have a tine display of enter-
prise in this booth, showing an excellent quality of oil and oil
cake. Several different kinds of sands are shown in glass jars
from Wapello's section of country, and are a surprise; the
numerous colors of the sand blend as beautifully together in
these jars as do the colors of the rainbow. Several roller proc-
ess mills are represented here with tine' grades of flour, showing
forth a great industry in this respect in these regions. Wa-
pello county is to be complimented on her great wealth and
industries and the great abundance of coal, stone, sand and
wood. There are twenty coal mines in Wapello county, all
working in the lower coal measures, the vein being from four
to six feet thick. The largest mines are located at Kirksville,
on the Ottumwa & Kirksville railroad; they have excellent
facilities for shipping coal and are operated by the Wapello
Coal Company. Their No. i slope is the second largest mine in
the district and produces the largest amount of coal with one
exception. The next largest mines are Philips' mine, near
Ottumwa, on the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul railroad, and
the Eldon mine No. i, on the southern branch of the Chicago,
Rock Island & Pacific railroad; both have railroad facilities for
shipping coal. There are also several local mines i-n the
vicinity of Ottumwa that do a good local business in the
winter. The Wapello Coal Company has opened a new slope
mine on the Ottumwa & Kirksville railroad. The Hawkeve
Coal Company of Ottumwa has opened a new shaft mine, one and
one-half miles north of Ottumwa, on the Chicago, Milwaukee

IOWA LEAVES. 289

& St. Paul railroad, which largely increases the production in
this county.

The Des Moines river runs diagonally through the county
and has cut many channels through the stratas. The deepest
shaft in the county does not exceed loo feet and in many places
the coal lies near the surface. This county has excellent rail-
road facilities for shipping coal in any direction. It produced^
in 1886, 237, III tons; in 1887, produced 272,073 tons, show-
ing an increase of 34,962 tons. All the mines are preparing
to increase the future output.

Wapello county also boasts of having the finest and
greatest number of cattle of any county in the state and her
dairy shipments the largest. Blue grass abounds in the fertile
valleys of the Des Moines river and its tributaries, affording
excellent pasturage for cattle.

Centuries ago the fertile soil of this section gave rich
returns to the red men and it never wears out. How true the
prophecy of the Indian chief in these valleys hundreds of years
ago! Her resources become richer every day; excellent corn,
oats, wheat, rye, barley, millet, flax, sorghum, anything which
grows in the latitude, can be grown successfully in Wapello
county soil, elegant samples of the same being shown in the
exhibit in the coal palace. Ottumwa is the county seat and
boasts of having the only coal palace under the sun.

VAN BUREN COUNTY.

Bidding the pleasant commissioners in the Wapello county
exhibit a kind adieu until 1 891, we turn our thoughts and atten-
tions for awhile to old Van Buren's display of enterprise and
genius. We are received in warm welcome by the commis-
sioner of this booth, who is one of the shining stars of the

290 IOWA LEAVES.

Keosauqua, Iowa, bar. Who has not heard of Martin Van
Buren and of Van Buren county, Iowa? which Hes along the
banks of the picturesque Des Moines river, about forty miles
below Ottumwa and in the extreme southern tier of counties,
joining corners with Wapello on the southeast, a country rich
in agricultural and mineral products, one of the richest in the
galaxy of the ninety and nine in Iowa. Rich in timber, in coal,
in building material, in bountiful crops and in live stock. Noted
for the fertility of its soil, its blue grass pastures, meadows of
timothy and clover, fruits and vegetables, its woolen mills, its
stone and marble, its orchards and prolific berry patches, fine
horses, fine cattle, fine farms, industrious farmers, hospitable
families and the most beautiful maidens in the state of Iowa,
its prosperous villages, schools and churches and great numbers
of noted men and women.

The exhibit which old Van Buren has placed in the coal
palace is a pretty one, rich in all the products of a beautiful and
fertile country, artistically arranged, occupying a fine location
immediately east of the blue grass region exhibit in the south-
east portion of the building. First we notice a beautiful panel
above the chief pyramid, in which are two large cornucopias
wrought of Van Buren county grasses, which fill the large dia-
mond and are surrounded by various colored buntings. In the
front of the space is a large triangular-shaped pyramid with four
rows of steps. A huge pumpkin weighing 125 pounds forms
the corner piece of the first tier, which is filled with a beautiful
assortment of apples with vegetables on either side, while large
bouquets of choice fiowers form a conspicuous feature in the
entire decorations.

A veritable "garden patch" of fine vegetables is shown
here. All that is necessary for the completion of the same is

IOWA LEAVES. 291

the hoe and rake and a few of Van Buren's hustling farmers
to dig them out. All kinds grown in this latitude are seen here
fully matured and greatly admired by all visitors. Van Buren
makes a specialty of fine apples and this display is a most
excellent one, luscious and tempting to the appetites of those
who have come from fruitless regions. A long row of glass
bottles stand on the shelves, which contain all the different
varieties of grain grown in the county, each denoting a most
luxuriant growth. Fine samples of clover and timothy seed are
also shown and are among the chief products of her section of
country. Back of this p3'ramid is another against the wall and
contains another beautiful exhibit representing forty-nine differ-
ent varieties of wood native to Van Buren county. On the
right of this are the coal, marble, limestone, sandstone and
potter's clay, all very abundant in the county. On the left
are elegant displays from her woolen mills at Bonaparte and
Sterling, which are very fine indeed, consisting of blankets,
yarns and ready-made clothing, the cloth being manufactured
at these mills. Near this display are seen an excellent quality
of cheese and jars of pure sweet butter, which tell a wonderful
story of Van Buren's dairy interests. The background of this
booth is formed of grain in the stalk grown in the county, corn
predominating largely in the make up. The large pyramid in
front is surrounded by a huge cone of corn in the ear, ears of
corn strung and pendent at various points, making Van Buren's
wigwam one of the handsomest in the palace.

Van Buren claims to be one of the best grazing countries
in the world. Blue grass and white clover are especially abun.
dant and hence we may expect that she would abound in cattle
and horses. She also takes the leadership in the raising of fall
wheat, the crop last year averaging forty bushels to the acre.

292 IOWA LEAVES.

Corn grows luxuriantly in her valleys, averaging ordinarily
sixty-two bushels to the acre. The meadows are fertile in
timothy. White oats yield large returns. The timber is very
heavy in this section, especially along the banks of the Des
Moines river, and maple groves are also plentiful. Her quarries
of fine building stone in all the varieties, particularly magnesian
limestone, sandstone and gray marble, are being quarried and
shipped to all parts of the country. The Chequest gray marble,
the stone furnished for the Washington monument from Iowa,
was taken from these quarries in this county. The material
furnishes many of the handsomest tombstones in the country.

A manufacturing interest, besides the ones already men-
tioned, is the L. Burg Wagon & Carriage factory at Farming-
ton; two cheese factories are also at the same place. Potteries
are located at Birmingham, Vernon and Bonaparte, all using
the potter's clay in their own county. These factories are all
supplied with cheap fuel, as abundance of timber and fifteen
extensive coal mines furnish an ample supply for all factories
and numerous inhabitants. This county was settled early by
excellent families from the middle states, all native Americans,
who took an early interest in educational matters and special
pride in their schools; as a result, Van Buren has produced men
of national fame.

Keosauqua is the county seat of Van Buren and is a most
beautifully located town on the banks of the peaceful Des Moines
river and is one of the old landmarks. All classes of business
are represented here necessary to supply the wants of a large
country tributary and her buildings are neat and commodious^
being built wholly of brick. Her people are an educated and
aristocratic class and take great pride in their schools and
churches and the country surrounding her is filled with an ener-

IOWA LEAVES. 293

getic and prosperous class of farmers. About forty-five miles
of the Des Moines river passes through the county which has five
vi^agon bridges and one railroad bridge across the same, all sub-
stantial iron bridges.

Van Buren, you have done yourself proud in making one of
the finest exhibits in the coal palace and we hope to meet you
again in the coal palace of 1891.

DAVIS COUNTY.

We will introduce the reader now to Davis county, which
has gained a most wonderful exhibit for the industrial exposi-
tion of 1890. We find a very pleasant and agreeable gentleman
acting as commissioner in this booth; having long been a resi-
dent of Davis county, he knows whereof he speaks as he explains
the great resources of his own country. The decorations here
are entirely of the products of the soil and are beautiful in the
extreme. The center of the booth contains a large pyramid of
shelving on which have been placed all the beautiful fruits in
season, vegetables above the average and all the grasses and
grains which abound in the county. The manufacturing indus-
tries of her section are also largely represented, cheese from the
Pulaski cheese factories being as fine as any we have ever had
the pleasure of sampling. We notice an elaborate display of
flour in different grades and brands, full roller process, from
numerous mills in Davis county. One part of this booth con-
tains some very interesting ancient relics; one is an old book
containing a history of Europe, Asia and Africa, published in
the year 1761, and a German prayer-book published in 1766 —
very interesting, indeed, to those who love to dwell on ancient
ideas. The most important among these relics is an old gun
which has a remarkable history indeed, one well worthy of

294 IOWA LEAVES.

notice. It was carried by a German soldier during the invasion
of Russia in the year 1812, and the same soldier carried the
same gun through the invasion of France in the year 18 14; it
was also carried under Napoleon Bonaparte in the battle of
Waterloo, June 18, 181 5. Two brass candlesticks, over
200 years old, stand side by side, while a pair of iron
snuffers lies close by, equally as ancient. Whose mantel they
may have adorned in the years cf the long ago we did not learn,
but the light from their tallow candles may have reflected its
rays on the forms of Romeo and Juliet ; who knows ? A number
of Indian relics are shown here, tomahawks, arrows, calumet
peace pipes and a large quantity of furs tanned by Indians, moc-
casins, beads and all implements of war. Davis county, with
all her rich products of soil, has also a history in connection with
these ancient relics.

Davis county is situated in the extreme southern tier of
counties, immediately south of Wapello, and west of Van Buren;
it is third from the Mississippi river, joining lands with Appa-
noose on the west, which belongs to the blue grass regions and
is noted for the fertility of its soil, which is rich and loamy, yield-
ing abundant harvests every year; it is also noted as having
excellent coal mines, affording cheap fuel for its inhabitants.
Cattle, horses, hogs and sheep are abundant in this county,
while the blue grass pasturage along the valleys of the numer-
ous creeks and rivers are the finest grazing lands in the world.
Large shipments of stock are made from this section and the
dairy interests rank with any in the state.

Bloomfield is the county seat of Davis, on the Chicago,
Burlington & Kansas City and Wabash & St. Louis railroads,
both traversing the country from east to west, while the Chi-
cago, Rock Island & Pacific passes through the northern por-

IOWA LEAVES. 295

tion, affording excellent shipping facilities. The people in Davis
county are a prosperous, educated and happ}^ race, who till the
soil, raise stock for the markets, improve their homes and take
great pride in their schools and churches.

Bloomfield is prettily situated and full of enterprise and
contains a splendid class of citizens. Her schools and churches
will compare favorably with those in other towns of her size in
the state and the business blocks are neat and comfortable
buildings. All classes of business necessary in supplying the
wants of a large country are represented here. Prominent in
this booth is seen a card which names this county "the finest
blue grass county in Iowa," the proving of which we shall
leave to our blue grass friends in southwestern Iowa. Davis
has made an excellent showing in the great coal palace and
industrial exposition and no doubt will double her attractions in
the palace of 1891.

MARION COUNTY.

The longer our journey continues the more interested we
become, completely enraptured, as it were, with the beautiful
scenes which surround us. Resting before our eyes in beauty
and grandeur is the Marion county display. We enter her lovely
boudoir and the first prominent feature which greets the eye is
the excellent coal exhibit. The black diamonds are repre-
sented by huge blocks formed into pyramid shape in the center
of the booth and we mark this county down as being most
prolific in this valuable mineral, and upon investigation we find
that she has forty-four mines in operation in the lower coal
measures. The veins are six feet in thickness and very uniform.
The largest mine is the No. 7 shaft of the White Breast
Goal Company, located at Swan, on the Des Moines branch of

296 IOWA LEAVES.

the Chicago, BurHngton & Quinc}' railroad. The products of
this mine are shipped to western Iowa and Nebraska; the vein
of coal is about four and one-half feet thick and of the lower
coal measures.

The Union mine at Flagler is the next largest mine in the
county and is operated in the lower coal measures; the vein is
six feet in thickness and very uniform. The product of this
mine is shipped to western Iowa and Nebraska over the Chicago,
Burlington & Quincy ; the owners are making valuable improve-
ments at this mine and can largely increase the output the
cominof' year. The Diamond mine at Dunreath, on the Wabash
railroad, has railroad facilities for shipping coal; they have coal
chutes at this mine to supply the locomotives on the road; they
are mining in the lower coal measures, vein five and one-half
feet thick, and are operating on the lands of the Red Rock Coal
Company. The Collins mine is within the limits of Knox-
ville and located on the Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific rail-
road and has splendid facilities for shipping coal. Much of
the products of this mine is sold in the city. There are several
mines in the vicinity of Knoxville that have a good local trade
in the winter season. The North Star Coal Company's mine is
located near Hamilton and several others in the vicinity haul
their coal to the Wabash railroad with teams and ship it north.
There is considerable business done here in the winter season,
but the great difficulty is in getting it to the railroad. This
county has more mines in operation than any other in the state,
the greater part being operated for local trade and are found
in nearly every township in the county. The mines in the
southern part of the county are all operated for local trade,
with the exception of those at Hamilton, before mentioned.
The lower coal measures extend over a large part of the

IOWA LEAVES. 297

count}-, which will some day be one of the largest coal producing
counties in the state; in 1887 the production amounted to 212,-
695 tons.

Marion county is located near the center of the state and
is in the third tier from the south, with the Des ]Moines river
running diagonally through it from the northwest to the south-
east ; it is besides well watered by Skunk river in the northeast,
while White Breast creek and English creek empty their waters
into the Des IMoines near the eastern line, and numerous other
small streams, the banks of each being covered with good
timber. The soil in this county cannot be surpassed for the
production of grass, wheat, oats and corn, while vegetables
grow to monstrous size and are elegant in quality. The tim-
bered and uncultivated land in this county is covered with a
fine, heavy growth of famous blue grass, making the finest
pasture for stock known in the world. There is no portion of
the county but what is settled and most of it in a high state of
cultivation, showing some of the finest farms in the state of
Iowa. Some of the best stock in the state is found in this
county; it has a world-wide reputation for its fine horses, which
command the highest price in the eastern markets, the facil-
ities for tine stock-raising having driven the poor stock beyond
its borders, so that none but the best are kept here.

The cultivated land produces wonderful crops, while the
soil will stand drouth better than any other known, and still, the
surface of the land being rolling, carries off the water in wet
seasons ; therefore, it possesses some of the best farming lands in
the state. Fruits of all kinds shown in this booth do well in
this county and exceptionally fine crops of small fruits are
produced. The timber is of tine quality and very abundant, a
lar^e amount of walnut timber having been shipped to the

298 IOWA LEAVES.

eastern markets. Gray and blue limestone and red and gray
sandstone of fine quality are quite abundant and very easy to
quany; elegant samples of the above are on exhibition in this
booth. The celebrated Red Rock quarries are situated in this
county and are being extensively worked and the products
shipped to St. Louis, Des Moines, Ottumwa and many other
cities, it being a very handsome and durable building-stone for
fine residences and business blocks. The limestone quarries at
Durham and other places are extensively worked and the rock
shipped in every direction; it is of the finest quality. The
coal fields in this county are so extensive and the coal of such
excellent qualit}^ that the wealth of the coal production is equal
to or greater than that produced from the surface of the land.
The fuel, in both wood and coal, cannot be equaled in any other
county in the great west. The coal crops out along the Des
Moines river and every stream and creek in the county, and a
glance at the map and location of the stream shows that the
field covers the entire county. The shipping facilities in these
regions are very fine, as a glance at the map will show that
the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad traverses it entirely
from the southeast to the northwest, affording the farmer, the
coal operator, the wood merchant, the owner of stone quarries
and all splendid facilities for shipping purposes. The Chicago,
Rock Island and Pacific railroad passes through the northeast
portion of the county and the Wabash railroad from the north-
west to the southeast — all through a rich coal county. These
are some of the natural advantages posessed by Marion county,
while it is settled by an intelligent, industrious and refined
people who are enterprising and progressive and are rapidly
improving the county. The towns are growing rapidly and
long ago the cabins of the early settlers were sheds; to-day

IOWA LEAVES. 299

large, commodious buildings are seen scattered throughout the
county. In this booth are seen several pairs of wooden shoes
from the wooden shoe palace, which was built at Pella some
few months previous, and were made b}^ the Hollanders who
have a thriving settlement near this place. They are an in-
dustrious colony of people and in winter they wear these
wooden shoes. We notice in this display elegant samples of
flour from roller process mills in this county, and one grade
bears the wooden shoe brand which sells readily on the Holland
market.

The Iowa Central University of Pella is one of the lead-
ing institutions of the state and has a wide reputation as a first-
class school of instruction. The State Industrial Home for the
adult blind is also established at Knoxville in this county and
the work of building commenced, which of itself will be a large
manufacturing institution. The advantages herein named are
all possessed by this county and when we look over her
wonderful exhibit in the coal palace we pronounce her one
of the richest in the great west. Those seeking homes in other
lands could not find a more wealthy, healthy or more beauti-
fully situated county than Marion in the coal palace regions of
southeastern Iowa.

JEFFERSON COUNTY.

Passing along the large, main aisle we find that the latch-
string hangs on the outside of Jefferson county's magnificent
apartments and we pass in. To say that we were amazed but
vaguely expresses our surprise as we gazed on the elaborate
display made by this county. So very skillful and artistic are
these eleofant decorations we almost wonder within ourselves
whether or not they were manipulated by human hands. This

300 IOWA LEAVES.

booth is under the supervision of three very pleasant and agree-
able commissioners and we were royally entertained by them
during our sojourn here. As we note the many beautiful things
in this bower of beaut5' we are led to believe that Jefferson
is a grand county. The first elegant displays that meet our
gaze are the fruits, which are an index of the orchards in this
county. Jefferson dotes on her apples particularly, which her
people declare are the finest in tlie state. The vegetables rank
among the very best in the palace. The different varieties of
grasses and grain are excellent and go toward making Jeffer-
son one of the most productive counties in the state. The dis-
play of native woods denotes a marvelously heavy growth of
timber in her section, numbering over loo varieties. The dis-
play of fine arts is second to none in the palace, while the
manufacturing industries of the county are largely represented.
The Fairfield bottling works occupy large space with a fine
display of bottled goods and the famous Louden Bros, of Fair-
field have an excellent exhibit in hay tools manufactured by
them and the finest we have ever seen for loading hay. The
Tarney & Company Wagon factory of the same place shows
a fine wagon of its manufacture, while the Fairfield canning
factory shows an elegant line of canned goods.

The marble works of Fairfield are represented by samples
of beautiful work. Two roller process flouring mills and one
furniture factor}^ have elegant displays and occupy large space.
A cotton plant just opening its buds is admired by many. Coal
and tiling are other prominent features seen in this booth. The
Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad traverses this county
from east to west, affording excellent facilities to any part of
the United States, while the Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific
traverses it from north to south.

IOWA LEAVES. 301

Jefferson county is noted as being one of the richest coun-
ties in the state — rich in timber, in building material, in grain
and live stock. Jefferson for variety of products is one of the
most remarkable in the state. Splendid farms, flocks of sheep,
fine cattle and horses — certainly Jefferson is rich in her posses-
sions. Fairfield, the county seat, is beautifully situated and is
noted for its elegant school system, fine churches and Parson's
College, an excellent Presbyterian institution, is also located
here in the northern portion of the city. Her electric light
system is one of the finest in the state and at night the whole
city is beautifully illuminated. The residence portion of the
city contains many beautiful homes, while her people are noted
throughout the west for their great hospitality. Jefferson
county can show some of the most elegant farms in the state,
while handsome and durable farm residences greet the e3'e of
the traveler in every direction. Cozy school-houses are seen
in every district and large herds of elegantly fed stock are seen
grazing in rich blue grass pastures. Jefferson has splendid
grazing facilities in the valleys of numerous streams of v/ater
which flow throuo^h her section and has a number of substantial
iron bridges spanning the streams at different places in the
county.

Jefferson has ten coal mines in operation. The Jefferson
County Coal Company at Perlee have made valuable improve-
ments and have largely increased their output; it is now one of
the best paying mines in the county. Perlee is an old mining town.
The Coal Port mine, about ten miles east of Fairfield, is one of
the principal mines in Jefferson county. There was not much
done at the mine in 1885, but since the present manager took
charge of the mine the production has steadily increased. In
1887, 5,000 tons were mined and shipped; the principal market

302 IOWA LEAVES.

was Mt. Pleasant, Iowa. This mine is located on the eastern
part of the Iowa coal fields. The vein here is about four feet
in thickness and supposed to be the lower vein of coal. The
mines located on Lick creek, three miles south of Libertyville,
are mining considerable coal; it is hauled to the Ft. Madison
& Northern Narrow Gauge railroad. The rest of the mines
in the county are operated exclusively for local business. The
output of coal for this county in 1886 was 1,083 tons; in 1887 it
was 10,397 tons, being an increase of 9,314 and the prospect is
good for a still larger increase the coming year. These are
only a few of the great advantages which Jefferson county
possesses and one that knows can only say to those seeking
homes in the west, if you wish to locate in a countr}' teeming
with all the advantages which this section contains, where the
climate is all that is desired, whose soil yields rich returns to
the farmer for his labor, where cheap fuel is abundant, whose
people are an intelligent and industrious class, come to Jefferson
and view her broad expanse. Her excellent showing in the
great coal palace demonstrates this fact to our people that she
is one of the richest counties in any land under the shining sun.

" PROUD MAHASKA."

This county was named after one of the most noted Indian
chiefs of tne lowas, Ma-has-ka (which means white cloud), a
descendant of the Mau-haw-gaw. The chief led his warriors in
eighteen battles against the Sioux on the north and the Osages
on the south and never failed to achieve a victory. He made
his home on the Des Moines river, about 100 miles above
its mouth, and must have been something of a Mormon, for it
is said he had seven wives. In 1824 he was one of a party of
chiefs who visited Washington. He left his home on the banks

IOWA LEAVES. 303

of the Des Moines to go down the river on his way to join his
party, and when near where the city of Keokuk is now located
he stopped to prepare and eat his venison. He had just com-
menced his meal when someone struck him on the back. Turn-
ing round he was surprised to see one of his wives, Rant-che-
wai-mie (female flying pigeon), standing with an uplifted
tomahawk in her hand. She accosted him with, "Am I 3-our
wife.'^ Are you my husband.^ If so I will go with you to
Maw-he-hum-ne-chi (the American big house) and see and
shake the hand of In-co-ho-nee," meaning the great father, as
they call the President. Mahaska answered: "Yes; you are my
wife. I am your husband. I have been a long time from you.
I am glad to see you. You are my pretty wife and a brave
man always loves to see a pretty woman." Ma-has-ka went on
to Washington accompanied by his "pretty wife," Rant-che-
wai-mie, who received many presents, but saw many things of
wdiich she disapproved. When she returned she called together
the matrons and maidens of the tribe and warned them against
the vices and follies of their white sisters. This good Indian
w^oman was killed by being thrown from her horse soon after
her return from Washington. In 1834 Ma-has-ka was also killed
about sixty miles from his home on the Nodaway by an enemy,
who took a cowardly advantage of him. At the time of his
death he was tifty years of age. After his death all his surviv-
ing wives went into mourning and poverty, according to the
custom of the tribe, except one named Mis-so-rah-tar-ra-haw
(female deer that bounds over the prairie), who refused to the
end of her life to be comforted, saying that her husband "was
a great brave and was killed by dogs," meaning low fellows.

The coal palace idea first originated in this county with
J. W. Johnson of the Oskaloosa Globe. Citizens of that place

304 IOWA LEAVES.

seemingl}' considered the matter and appointed a committee,
and Mr. A. Wetherill of Oskaloosa drew up a plan mucli upon
the same idea as that of the present coal palace. For some
reason the whole matter fell through and Ottumwa jumped into
the scheme and right royally have they carried it out to the last
letter. But Mahaska reaps a great benefit and the liberality and
public spirit of her citizens have materially contributed to the
success of the coal palace, in the glory of which she deserves a
large share.

One great central pyramid of steps contains the exhibit
comprising elegant specimens of all kinds of grains in jars,
including some of Mahaska's celebrated wheat, that produce
forty-two bushels to the acre. There are corn, oats, rye,
timothy, clover, broom corn, flax, onions, pumpkins, squashes,
melons of all varieties; there are sweet potatoes that would
make Muscatine island turn green with envy, and splendid Irish
potatoes, which are greatly admired by all our friends from
Ireland, and in fruit Mahaska takes the cake, especially in
apples. Noticeable among the fruits is the garden peach
" Tuck," the "blizzard proof" peach originated b}^ a Mr. Hen-
dricks and propagated by Mr. John Chamberlain of Oskaloosa.
It is confidently claimed that this peach can be grown with
success and great profit in this latitude, and is believed by
many to be one of the most important developments yet made
by Iowa horticulturists. In this booth the eye rests on pears,
plums, twenty varieties of grapes, persimmons, paw-paws and
chestnuts; whether or not the latter can be called a fruit, one
thing is sure, they grow very prolifically in Mahaska county.
"*rhe artistic display is very beautiful; arranged in an effective
manner are life-sized crayon portraits, oil paintings and sketches,
the products of Mahaska's genius and skill. All this with an

IOWA LEAVES. 305

exquisite display of cut roses from Kemble's Floral Company
of Oskaloosa, which has been renewed daily, has made this
exhibit a bower of beauty and delight to all ladies visiting the
palace. Mahaska day and President Harrison's day came on
the same day, but this did not dispel the fact that this was
Mahaska day at the coal palace, and fully 5,000 people came
into Ottumwa from the county on presidential day, bringing
with them bushels of roses to decorate with. Prominent on the
rostrum was a stand covered entirely with trailing smilax and
all colors of Marcholneil roses, which was placed in front of
the President after he was seated, and was greatly admired by
the whole presidential party. After the President's reception
in the afternoon twenty-three Welsh coal miners from Oska-
loosa filed on the stage platform and gave a full chorus, " The
Comrade at Arms," which was fine and greatly appreciated by
the large assembly present in the auditorium; their singing-
master accompanied them and kept perfect time during the
rendition of the same, while the harmonious blending of voices
so carefully and beautifully trained, from the deep bass to
the high, fine tenor, fell on the ear like the laugh of a silvery
wave, or the rippling of many waters; we were completely
enraptured, as it were, with the sweet voices of these toiling
miners.

King Coal dwells ever underground,

Surrounded by his gnomes,
Who carve his chambers in the earth

And scoop out rocky domes.

Ever they work by torchlight, there

The clear sun never shines
To glad the hearts of the thousands toiling,

Toiling in the mines. ^,

But still they burrow like patient moles;

They work and gaily sing,
Their voices ringing through the vaults

In praises of their king.

306 IOWA LEAVES.

In order that the reader may retain and carry with him
the grand stor}' of wealth, productiveness, vast resources,
material prosperity and general comfort told by Mahaska's
exhibit, the following posters are conspicuously displayed and
their eloquence speaks for itself: "Mahaska county is first in
coal"; "Second in hogs"; "First in horses"; "Fourth in agricult-
ural products." Fine farms, with a court-house that cost $75,-
GOG. Coal output 1 8, GOG tons, one-fourth the output of the
entire state. The commissioners who have labored so zealously
and faithfully to collect and prepare for this exhibit are Samuel
Rowe, chairman and treasurer of the Board of Trade of Oska-
loosa; W. A. Bryan of New Sharon; Andrew Baker of Eddy-
ville; Col. Swalm, secretary of Oskaloosa committee.

Mahaska county is in the third tier of counties from the
south line of the state and the fifth from the Mississippi river,
its south line lying twelve miles north of the coal palace. The
county is drained by three rivers and underneath its fertile soil
are rich beds of coal, nine-tenths of which are unoccupied. It
has thirty-nine coal mines in operation employing over 2,ogo
men. The output last year was i,ooo,ggg tons of coal
and $1,250,000 was paid out for the employment of miners.
Oskaloosa is the county seat, with a population of 8,ogo;
it has waterworks, electric lights, gas, free mail delivery,
street cars, telephones, fine drainage, stately buildings, beautiful
residences, three colleges, fine public school system, fifteen
churches and all the best improvements of which western
towns can boast. The people are progressive and business here
is always prosperous. Mahaska wants more capital, new fac-
tories and lots of new people. Mahaska is also exceedingl}'
rich in timber, which is found all along the banks of the Des
Moines and Skunk rivers and three tributaries. There is an

IOWA LEAVES. 307

abundance of the best limestone for building purposes, a mon-
ument of -limestone from the quarries of Osborne & Co. at
Eddyville forming one of the features of the exhibit. Ma-
haska is "first in coal"; her manufacturing industries are
numerous — flouring mills, oatmeal mills, foundries and machine
shops, the Seeveres Manufacturing Company of brick and
tile, glue factory, the Week Furnace Company, etc. Five rail-
roads furnish excellent transportation facilities for Mahaska
and fuel is a matter of insignificant expense. If the Indian
chief Ma-has-ka could arise to-day from his long abode in the
forest, on the banks of the peaceful Des Moines river, and look
upon the excellent exhibit made by the county that bears his
name, in the great coal palace and industrial exposition at
Ottumwa, he would cry aloud in all his Indian eloquence:
*'Well done, proud Ma-has-ka, queen of Iowa counties, the
home of my boyhood days ! Many moons and many winters
have passed by since my beloved people roamed wild and free
through your forests, which have faded like a vision, and over
the hillside and plain your orchards have sprung up in great
beauty, and I can see field after field of golden grain where
then waved the tall prairie grass. All honor, profit and praise
to this country, which the Great Spirit gave the noble lowas"
centuries ago ! "

KEOKUK COUNTY.

Keokuk county derived its name from the great Indian
chief, who belonged to the Sac branch of the nation, named
Keokuk or Watchful Fox; he was born on Rock river in 1780.
He was a great orator and was also entitled to rank as warrior,
for he possessed courage and energy and at the same time a
cool judgment. He had an intelligent appreciation of the power

308 IOWA LEAVES.

and greatness of the United States and saw the futiHty of Black
Hawk's hope to contend successfully against the government.
In his first battle, while young, he had killed a Sioux and for
this he was honored with a feast by his tribe.

At the beginning of the Black Hawk war an affair trans-
pired which was dignified by the name of the Battle of Still-
man's Run, in which some 300 volunteers under Major Stillman
took prisoners five of Black Hawk's men who were approach-
ing with a flag of truce. One of the prisoners was shot by
Stillman's men. Black Hawk had also sent five other men to
follow the bearers of the flag. The troops came upon these
and killed two of them; the other three reached their camp and
gave the alarm. Black Hawk's warriors then charged upon
Stillman's adv^ancing troops and completely routed them. This
failure to respect the flag of truce so exasperated the Indians
that it was with great difficulty that Keokuk could restrain his
warriors from espousing the cause of Black Hawk. Stillman's
defeat was followed by a war-dance, in which Keokuk took
part. After the dance he called a council of war and made a
speech in which he admitted the justice of their complaints.
The blood of their brethren slain by the white men while bear-
ing a flag of truce called loudly for vengeance. Said he: "I
am your chief and it is m}^ dut}^ to lead you to battle if, after
fully considering the matter, you are determined to go. But,
before you decide on taking this important step, it is wise to
inquire into the chances of success. But if you do determine
to go upon the warpath I will agree to lead you on one condi-
tion, viz., that before we go we will kill all our old men and
our wives and children to save them from a lingering death by
starvation and that everyone of us determine to leave our
homes on the other side of the Mississippi."

IOWA LEAVES. 309

Keokuk so forcibly portrayed in other parts of this speech
the great power of the United States and of the hopeless pros-
pect before them that his warriors at once abandoned all
thought of joining Black Hawk. The name Keokuk signified
Watchful Fox. As we have seen, he eventually superseded
Black Hawk and was recognized by the United States as the
principal chief of. the Sac and Fox nation, which indeed had
much to do in stinging the pride of the imperious Black Hawk.
In person he was strong, graceful and commanding, with fine
features and an intelligent countenance. He excelled in horse-
manship, dancing and all athletic exercises. He was courageous
and skillful in war, but mild and polite in peace. He had a fine
son, a promising boy, who died at Keokuk's village on the
banks of the Des Moines river in Mahaska county. Keokuk
himself became dissipated during the later years of his life in
Iowa. It was reported after his removal with his people to
Indian Territory he died of delirium tremens. Iowa has hon-
ored his memory in the name of one of her counties and one
of her principal cities in the southeastern part of the state.

Keokuk county has her display in the extreme northwest
portion of the palace, on the north aisle, and the doors of her
booth are thrown wide open that all may step in and learn of
her great resources. The entire decorations were made by the
county — the agricultural and mechanical below and the fine
arts upstairs — and as we gaze on her elegant display we are led
to believe that she mav be one of the wealthiest counties in the
state. The commissioner in charge of this booth is Captain J.
T. Parker of Sigourney in this county, whom we find to be a
most pleasant and agreeable gentleman and is ably assisted in
the work here by his estimable wife. Both have made many
friends during their sojourn in the palace city and gave us much

310 IOWA LEAVES.

information regarding their country. Directly in the front part
of this booth are two beautiful and thrifty Chinese palms and
underneath their spreading branches is seen a number of hand-
some aquaria, which contain a special exhibit of fancy gold
and pearl fish, which we shall describe further on. In the center
of the booth is a large pyramid of steps, completely covered
with excellent fruits, vegetables, grains and grasses and an ele-
gant line of canned goods put up by Keokuk's own domestic
hands. This exhibit is one of the most complete in the palace
and crowds linger around it every day, eager to gaze on all
the many beautiful features which it contains. In one corner
we notice a very handsome and highly polished center table,
made of fifty-two kinds of wood. A checker-board inlaid with
dark and light wood on the top makes it a very attractive piece
of work. These woods are all native to Keokuk county. Six
flouring mills are represented in this booth — all roller process —
with excellent grades of flour. A complete line of fancy
wicker work manufactured at Keota, this county, is another
fine display and one greatly admired by the ladies in passing
through the palace. Six cheese factories are represented with
an elegant line of cheese, which speaks volumes for Keokuk in
this industry. Fine samples of brick and tile form a pretty
fence around the exhibit and were manufactured at Sigourney.
A miniature monument of genuine granite occupies a prominent
position and advertises well the workmanship of the cutter.
Among the vegetables we notice large, well-matured potatoes,
which the commissioner informs us grew in six weeks' growth
in Keokuk's loamy soil and weigh two pounds. From a card
conspicuous in this booth we take the following facts: "Ship-
ments ending the 3'ear June 30, 1890: Horses, 12 cars; cattle,
685; hogs, 1,290; sheep, 22; rye, t,t,', corn, 952; oats, 1,004;

IOWA LEAVES. 311

flour, 150,000; products of the dairy, 855 tons; brick and tile,
95 cars; soft coal, 25,962; miscellaneous, 10,357."

Reader! What do you think of this county and of the
products of her soil? of her facilities as a stock country? and
of the products of her mines ? It is indeed astonishing. There
are twelve coal mines in this county at What Cheer, extensively
operated and products shipped to all parts of the country.

Keokuk county also has a history in ancient relics and
our attention is called first to a large, old-fashioned chair which
occupies a prominent position in this booth; and a remarkable
story is connected with its past. It was made in the 3ear 1686
in England for John Buckly by his son Jonathan and was
brought to Philadelphia when that great city was a very small
village. William Penn sat in it many times in his days; the
first four presidents of the United States occupied it during
their lifetime and John Quincy Adams in his day; the chair
was placed on the rostrum and occupied by President Harrison
during his visit to the coal palace. This wonderful curiosity is
owned by Miss L. M. Buckly of Keokuk county and has been
remarkably well preserved; it bears the date of 1686 on the
back, in old English figures, and drew crowds to Keokuk's
apartments every day. We notice another great curiosity
hanging on the west wall of this booth, a quilt made by the
Ladies' Social Circle of Keota, on which all the business firms
of that city are represented on separate cards, also all the pro-
fessional men. It is as perfect a business directory as we have
ever seen and attracts all eyes; each card is as neat as if printed
by the press and is outlined on cream silk with red silk floss.
It is a beautiful and very attractive piece of handiwork and at-
tracts the attention of all ladies, each pronouncing it a wonder-
ful piece of fancy work.

312 IOWA LEAVES.

Keokuk county lies directly north of Jefferson, in the third
tier from the south line of the state and third from the Missis-
sippi river, directly east of Mahaska, in the fertile valleys of the
classic Skunk river. Sigourney is the county seat of this
county and is a wideawake business city; all classes of business
are represented here necessary in supplying a large and beaur
tiful county tributary; it has good railroad facilities for ship-
ping. Sigourney is an old town and the traveler is at once
surprised when he sees the extent of her business qualities.
Her citizens are an intelligent and aristocratic class and take
great pride in their schools and churches ; she has an excellent
public school system and all denominations of the Christian
religion have church homes in this city. The soil and climate
of this county are adapted for the raising of corn, oats, wheat,
rye, barley, flax, broom corn, sorghum, blue grass, timothy
and clover; her pastures teem with an elegant growth of blue
grass ; therefore, as a natural consequence, she is noted for fine
cattle, horses, hogs and sheep, which are shipped to the market
at all seasons of the year and find ready sale. The home of
the industrious farmer in this section indicates wealth, prosper-
ity, contentment and intelligence, and as fine farms as are found
in the west are seen in this county; abundant crops being raised
here every year. Native timber is very heavy in this county,
which, with abundance of coal and plenty of water, is well
adapted for all kinds of manufacturing industries; surely those
in search of homes within the limits of our great state would
do well to investigate the great natural advantages which this
county possesses. Thornburg is a pretty, picturesque village,
near which is located the gold, silver and pearl fish fishery
of Bruce Bros. Their exhibit in this booth attracted wide
attention, showing over 150 beautiful, healthy fish of their

IOWA LEAVES. 313

own raising, except three imported Japanese fan tails, three of
lifty which they imported to raise.

Bruce Bros, are young men of high social standing in the
community in which they live and are making a grand success
of their business in the west, having located here but three
years ago. They are the onh' wholesale and retail dealers in
fancy, gold and pearl fish west of Pittsburg, Penn., from which
city they came to Keokuk county, Iowa. They have ten acres
in ponds and every facility for the successful raising of these
tish. No longer will western people be compelled to send to
Chicago or eastern points to dealers for these fish, as they can
be had in any quantity desired at this fishei'V at Thornburg,
Iowa. They deal in all styles of aquaria, globes, stands, orna-
ments, fish food and water plants, and on presidential day at
the coal palace decorated one of their handsomest globes in
flowers and put in it four of their most beautiful gold, silver
and pearl fish and sent it to "Baby McKee" by grandpa Har.
rison, with Bruce Bros.' compliments. Iowa is well adapted to
the successful raising of fish, as is demonstrated by the wonder-
ful success of Bruce Bros. Keokuk was a great chief and
Keokuk county, which bears his name, is a great county and
one of the finest amons: the ninety and nine in Iowa and her
exhibit in the great coal palace of 1890 demonstrated this fact
to our people.

MONROE COUNTY.

Last, but not at all the least, we look upon Monroe county,
the last county exhibit in the palace, situated at the left of the
main entrance. The pleasant commissioner from Albia lowers
the bars and we pass into this great country; we are both
surprised and pleased when we gaze upon her magnificent dis-

314 IOWA LEAVES.

play of genius and enterprise. Our eyes rest first on the
"Monroe County Queen/' made entirely of the products of the
soil by the ladies of Albia. She stands on a decorated pedestal,
queen of all she surveys and attracts the eye of ever}^ visitor to
the palace. Her hat is made of plaited oat's straw, very broad-
rimmed and trimmed in natural field flowers of all colors, inter-
mingled with wild red berries. Her bangs are of corn-silk,
being very blonde and have been curled on a modern curler,
while her long back hair falling so gracefully around her
shoulders is of flax, which has been scutched and hackled until
as fine as silk. Her basque is made of some light material com-
pletely covered with flax seed, which has been put on with glue,
the effect of which is very beautiful indeed. Her dress skirt is
also made in the latest style, with drop skirt and covered with
millet and mustard seed, with set-in panels made of black
muslin sprinkled with coal and diamond dust, which sparkles
and glistens like diamonds and the drop skirt falls over a
trimming of the same material. Her jewelry consists of pin,
earrings and necklace made of small blocks of coal, representing
jet. Her face is a make-up of a combination of the different
kinds of flour and is astonishingly striking and touched off by
"Laird's bloom of youth." Her gloves are of old gold color
covered with mustard seed and she holds a small scythe
in her left hand covered with blue grass heads. She stands here
in all her magnificent beauty on a pedestal of grasses and grains
and, aside from the blue grass cow in the blue grass regions
exhibit, is the only figure in the palace composed entirely of the
products of Monroe county. Near by this queen we notice an
old clock, so old that 149 years have passed by since it first
stood on "grandfather's floor," being too large of course for the
shelf and it still ticks, ticks, ticks, as the iron weights go slowly

IOWA LEAVES. 315

downward. What a history these old clocks always have. We
look upon stalks of corn in this booth thirteen feet high, of
wonderful growth, containing full, large, round ears and a
magnificent display of vegetables. We almost wish we might
live in Monroe county when we look upon her elegant display
in this line. There are only sixteen cheese factories represented
here and a large shelf extending around three sides of the
exhibit contains the samples from each. This is an excellent
showing of Monroe's dairy interests. The numerous and beau-
tiful varieties of grain displayed, both in the stalk and in glass
jars, are wonderful to look upon and denote a rich and fertile
soil in her section. Elegant fruits in season are shown, fine
apples particularly and Monroe's orchards are groaning to-day
with their burdens of luscious fruit.

Monroe county is the second county from the south line of
the state and the fifth from the Mississippi river and directly
west of Wapello. Monroe is noted for the fertility of its soil
and fine coal beds, which are extensively mined and products
shipped to all parts of the country. There are nineteen mines
in operation at the present time and seven of these have excel-
lent railroad facilities for shipping coal. Three of these are
located west of Albia, on the main line of the Chicago, Burling-
ton & Quincy railroad; two are on the Iowa Central railroad,
northeast of Albia; two others are east of Albia, on the
Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad; one at Chisholm, and
one at Avery. There are several small mines in the vicinity of
Avery that haul their coal in wagons and ship it. There are
some small mines both north and south of Albia that are work-
ing in the upper vein of coal. The product is sold at local
sales. The mines that are doing a shipping business are work-
ing in the middle seam of the lower coal measures and nearly

316 IOWA LEAVES.

all of them increased their output last year and all are prepar-
ing to increase their business this coming year. Monroe is
bounded by five large coal-producing counties — Marion,
Mahaska, Wapello, Appanoose and Lucas — and is in the center
of the finest part of the Iowa coal fields. This county produced
in 1887 183,505 tons and has greatly increased the output since.
The farms in Monroe rank among- the best in the state and

large crops are raised here every year. Corn, oats, wheat, rye,
barley, millet, flax, clover, blue grass and timothy have luxuri-
ant growth and cattle, horses, hogs and sheep are raised by
the thousand and shipped to other markets.

Monroe's reputation for fine horses extends far and wide;
they command the highest prices in the eastern markets. Her
railroad facilities are excellent. The great ''Q." route passes
through the county from east to west, with branches extend-
ing both north and south through fertile countries. Albia
is the county seat of Monroe, beautifully located on the main
line of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad and is one of
the prettiest towns in the state. Elegant schools and churches
are found here, while the people are an intelligent and indus-
trious class. The business portion of the town surrounds a
pretty square, in which is located a handsome court-house. All
classes of business are carried on here — successful in supplying
the wants of a wealthy country surrounding her. A branch
line of the "Q." runs from here north to Des Moines through
a fine country and has large patronage. The Cramer house in
Albia is a fine brick hotel and is successfully operated by Mr.
J. B. Rufner, late of Des Moines, who runs a first-class house in
every particular.

All in all, Monroe county is hard to beat in her numerous
advantages and is as fine a countr}- as is found anywhere on

IOWA LEAVES. 317

the continent. So ends a description of the marvelous exhibits
made by nine productive counties in southeastern Iowa, which
are the finest ever witnessed in the world. There are yet four
other excellent counties in southeastern Iowa which are not
represented in the palace — Henry, Lee, Des Moines and
Louisa; therefore, we shall make a general description of
these as we pass through them.

LEE COUNTY.

First is Lee county, which lies along the Mississippi valley,
forming the extreme southeast corner of our great state and
one of the richest in agricultural resources. Ft. Madison is
the county seat, located on the west bank of the Mississippi, on
the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy and the Santa Fe railroads;
it is a thriving town of about 4,000 inhabitants, has excel-
lent schools and colleges, handsome church edifices and an intel-
ligent and prosperous class of people.

The Mississippi valley is noted for teh great fertility of its
soil, and so is the Des Moines, and Lee county lies between the
two; so the reader may judge of her great advantages. Every-
thing known to the latitude grows prolifically in this section of
country and some of the most elegant orchards found in the
west are located in Lee county, sending forth thousands of bush-
els of luscious apples every year to other markets, while small
fruits also yield large returns. The climate is unsurpassed
in the west and Keokuk, one of the largest and best cities in
the state, is located within her border on the west bank of the
great Mississippi, in the extreme southeast corner. Montrose
is another pretty town ; here the famous apple orchards of so
much interest are located.

In 1809 a militarv post was established where Ft. Madison
is now located, but, of course, the country was not open to white

318 IOWA LEAVES.

settlers until after the "Black Hawk Purchase." In i834troops
were stationed at the point where Montrose is now located and
at that time the place was called Ft. Des Moines. At the
foot of the lower rapids there was a place which, prior to 1834,
was known as Farmers' Trading Post. In September of that
year a meeting of half-breed Indians and their assigns was held
in the trading-house then owned by Isaac C. Campbell. The
object of the meeting was to petition congress for the passage
of a law granting them the privilege to sell and convey their
respective titles to what was then known as the Half-Breed
Reservation, according to the laws of Missouri. In attendance
on this meeting were representatives from Prairie du Chien and
St. Louis. At this time there were about nine families residing
in the vicinity and after the adjournment of the meeting the
resident citizens repaired to the inn of John Gaines to talk over
their prospects when the half-breed tribe should become extinct.
They looked forward to the time when a city should grow up
at that point. John Gaines called the meeting to order and
made a speech in which he said the time had now come to
agree upon a name for the town. He spoke of Chief Keokuk
as a friend of the white man and proposed his name for the
future city. The proposition met with favor and the name was
adopted. In 1847 th^ town was laid out and a public sale of
lots took place in June. Onl}' two or three lots were sold,
although many attended from St. Louis and other points. In
1840 the greater portion of Keokuk was dense forest, the im-
provement being only a few cabins. In 1847 ^ census of the
place gave a population of 620. During the year 1832 Captain
James White made a claim on the present site of Montrose and
in the same year, soon after the close of the Black Hawk war,
seven persons made claims on the site where Ft. Madison now

IOWA LEAVES. 319

Stands. In 1833 these claims were purchased by John and Na-
thaniel Knapp, upon which in 1835 they laid out the town.

Lee county is rich in her possessions, has excellent railroad
facilities and the traveler is delighted with the beautiful scenery
which surrounds him in passing through her section of country.

DES MOINES COUNTY.

The first white settlement made in this county was in the
fall of 1832. Daniel Tothero came with his family and settled
on the prairie about three miles from the Mississippi river.
About the same time Samuel White with his family erected
his cabin near the river at what is known as the Upper Bluff,
within the limits of the present city of Burlington. This was
before the extinction of the Indian title, for that did not take
place before June i, 1833, when the government acquired the
territory under what was known as the "Black Hawk Pur-
chase." There was then a government military post at Rock
Island and some dragoons came down from that place during
the next winter and drove Tothero and White over the river,
burning their cabins. White remained in Illinois until the first
of the following June, when the Indians surrendered possession
of the "Black Hawk Purchase," and on that very day was on
the ground and built his second cabin. This cabin stood on
what is now Front street, between Court and High streets, in
the city of Burlington. Soon after Mr. White's return his
brother-in-law, Doolittle, joined him and in 1834 they laid out
the original town, naming it Burlington for the town of that
name in Vermont. The name was given at the request of John
Gray, a Vermonter, and a friend of the proprietors. During
the year 1833 there was considerable settlement made in the
vicinity and soon a mill was erected by Mr. Donnell on Flint

320 IOWA LEAVES.

creek, three miles from Burlington. In 1S37 Major McKell
erected a sawmill in the town. In June, 1834, congress passed
an act attaching: the "Black Hawk Purchase" to the territory
of Michigan for temporary government. In September of the
same year the legislature of Michigan divided this purchase
into two counties — Des Moines and Dubuque. They also
organized a county court in each county and for Des Moines
county made the seat of justice at Burlington. The first court
was held in April, 1835, in a log house. In 1838 Iowa was
made a separate territory and Burlington was made the capital
and so remained until after the admission into the Union as a
state. The territorial legislature met for several years in the
first church erected in Burlington, known as "Old Zion," where
the present elegant opera-house is now located. The author
has a warm spot in her heart for Burlington and Des Moines
counties, being the country in which she was born, and her
parents were among the first settlers of Iowa, locating in Des
Moines county in 1838.

Now pass we o'er a few fast-fleeting years
With their joys and sorrows, their hopes and fears.
On something change is written every day
And time is passing; placed along the way
New men and scenes upon the Iowa stage,
Which still are living on historic page.

Des Moines county lies along the western banks of the
Mississippi river in the extreme eastern portion of the state and
in the second tier from the south line. The Mississippi valley
is noted throughout the world for the fertility of its soil and
for the numerous great cities which have sprung up along its
banks from its source to its mouth. The agricultural resources
of this county are known far and wide, yet to the world there
is much to tell of the people who have placed it in the front

IOWA LEAVES. 321

ranks of the ninety and nine in Iowa. The soil in this county
is deep, rich and loamy and never wears out and 3'ields large
returns every year to the husbandmen. Corn, oats, wheat,
barley, rye, millet and flax are the principal products raised
here and abundance of blue grass, timothy and clover abound
throughout her section, making her one of the finest stock coun-
tries in the world. Her grazing facilities are unsurpassed.
Beautiful streams of pure, fresh water steal their way through
all portions of the county, which empty their waters into the
deep channels of the great Father of Waters and afford an
excellent supph^ for the thousands of cattle which graze along
their banks. The traveler in passing through this section of
country is favorably impressed with the beauty of its landscapes
and the number of fine farms and farm residences which greet
the eye in every direction. Neat churches and school buildings
are also seen in every district and on every hand may be seen
indications of wealth, prosperity and comfort. The great "Q."
route penetrates the county entirely from east to west, while
the Burlington, Cedar Rapids & Northern traverses it from
north to south and numerous other roads pass through different
portions of the same, affording excellent shipping facilities for all.
Burlington is the county seat of Des Moines and has a population
of about 30,000 and is one of the wealthiest cities in the state,
a full description of which is given in another portion of this
book. Middletown, Danville, Medeapolis, Denmark, Augusta
and Kossuth are all flourishing villages and take great pride in
their schools and churches. West Burlington has assumed
large proportions during the past two years, a description of
which is also given in another part of this book. Middletown
is a small but picturesque village, filled with a charitable and
hospitable people and is the place where the author of this book

322 ion' A LEAVES.

first saw the light of the world in 1856, This prett}^ village
lies nine miles west of the city of Burlington, on the main line
of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, and is surrounded
by a splendid farming region which has excellent markets at
Burlington. Des Moines county has been the home of many
noble pioneers and their memories are preserved fresh and
green in the minds of many of the settlers of the present day.

In the heart of the grand old forest,

A thousand miles to the west,
Where the streams gushed out from the hillside,

They halted at last for rest.
And the silence of ages listened

To the ax stroke loud and clear,
Divining a kingly presence

In the tread of the pioneer.

HENRY COUNTY.

This county lies between Jefferson and Des Moines, north
of Van Buren and Lee and is in the second tier from the south
line and the second from the Mississippi river. Mt. Pleasant is
the county seat of Henry, situated on the main line of the
Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, which traverses the
county entirely from east to west. The Hospital for the Insane
is located here, with mammoth, solid, stone buildings and cul-
tivates about 600 acres of ground — property of the institution.
Mt. Pleasant is a fine trading point for a large and wealthy
country tributary. The Keokuk & Northwestern railroad
enters her limits, coming from Ft. Madison in Lee county.
Mt. Pleasant is a city of schools and colleges and large numbers
\ of students from all parts of the country are seen here during
the school year. Henry county is noted for the great advan-
tages which she possesses in the chief wealth of a nation — agri-
culture. Her elegant farms are teeming with all the natural

IOWA LEAVES. 323

resources which go toward making her one of the very best
countries in the west. Corn, oats, wheat, rye, barley, flax,
millet, broom corn and sorghum are the principal products
raised here, large crops of which are grown every year. Henry
county is also noted as being one of the finest stock countries in
the west; large numbers of fine cattle, hogs and horses are
shipped from her section 3^early, footing up large sums. Large
quantities of native timber are seen by the traveler passing
through her section along the banks of the classic Skunk river,
whose rich valleys are covered with a luxuriant growth of blue
grass, affording excellent pasturage for stock at all seasons of
the year. Salem is a beautifully situated town, on the Ft.
Madison & Burlington Narrow Gauge railroad; it is a pretty
village, settled mostly with Quakers, who are intelligent and
educated people and take great pride in their churches, which
are neat and comfortable places of worship. The country sur-
rounding Salem is hio-h and undulating and some of the finest
farms seen in the state are found here. Henry county is a
beautiful and fertile country and if she had made a display in
the coal palace it would have been an excellent one, for she is
rich in all the golden grains, fruits and vegetables, manufactories,
abundance of cheap fuel and a constant supply of water.

LOUISA AND WASHINGTON COUNTIES.

These two excellent counties have missed a great bonanza
by not appearing in the great coal palace carnival of 1890, as
they finish out the coal palace regions of southeastern Iowa, join-
ing lands between the great Mississippi river and Keokuk
county, in the third tier from the south line. In general with
their sister counties, their valleys and prairies are overflowing
in a high state of cultivation, which fully attests their worth as

324 IOWA LEAVES.

agricultural counties. Southeastern Iowa comprises thirteen of
the richest counties in the whole western country, abounding
in coal and timber. The fertile valleys of the great Mississippi,
Des Moines and Skunk rivers are thronged with thriving cities
and villages, while the farm regions are teeming with the rich
products which this latitude affords. The supply of timber is
sufficient for ages to come, while the coal supply is inexhaust-
ible and they are fast becoming large exporters of this valuable
product. This section of country was the first to grow blue
grass in Iowa, to the proof of which thousands of acres of blue
grass pasture lands will attest, as well as every citizen of this
county. The fertile soil of these regions produces from forty to
sixty bushels of corn to the acre and the same of oats. The
wheat crops are principally winter wheat, averaging some
twenty bushels to the acre. Rye averages the same or more.
There is more timothy seed exported every year from these
regions than from any other in the state and clover is abun-
dant. As a stock-growing country southeastern Iowa can
hardly be surpassed in the great west. The rich pastures of the
blue grass and clover lands bring the cost of preparing stock for
market to the minimum and the beef cattle raised in this sec.
tion command the best prices in eastern markets. Being in the
extreme southern and eastern portions of the state, they have a
mild and equable climate, and, as the trend of civilization is
westward, we would call upon those citizens in our older
states who may be desirous of seeking homes in the west, to
inspect the great state of Iowa with an area of 55,045 square
miles, almost all of which is available for cultivation. A salu-
brious climate and a fertile soil, one of the greatest agricultural
states in the Union, with more arable and less waste land than
any other territory of the same area. She is out of debt, with

IOWA LEAVES. 325

a low tax rate — only two mills on the dollar. She possesses a
magniticent capitol building costing $3,600,000, with some six-
teen state institutions, all well provided for. She has less
pauperism and crime than any territory of like population in the
United States. She stands at the head of all states in the
Union as regards the per cent, of illiterates, having but 1.005
per cent, in the census of 1890.

Time many years has laid upon the shelf
Since our great Uncle Sam possessed himself
Of these domains, by nature so endowed
With everything required to raise a proud
Inheritance, for his restless, roving sons.

Will the reader kindly consent to finish with us the very
pleasant journey of the great coal palace exhibits ? They will
be found very interesting and instructive and you will be highly
delighted with the continued journey. We take great pleasure
now in showing you through T. M. Sinclair's display, pork-
packers and shippers, located at Cedar Rapids, Iowa. We
look upon Mr. Hog, in all his glorious attire, in this elegant
booth, in bundles and in glass jars, in tin pails and in glass
cases, in kegs and in bottles. Large hams, small hams, min-
iature hams and roll after roll of elegant breakfast bacon, put
up for foreign markets. The English, the Scotch, the German,
the Irish, the French, the Polish, the Swede — in fact, all of the
nations of Europe eat Mr. Hog, cured and packed by T. M.
Sinclair & Co. of Cedar Rapids, Iowa.

The salt pork in barrels with glass heads is the most
excellent we have ever seen — and we are good judges — just
such pork as Boston folks like with baked beans. The valu-
able display of cured meats occupies large space in the extreme
southeast corner and crowds linger around it day by day, eager

326 IOWA LEAVES.

to s:aze on the manv handsome features which it contains.
The capacity of this great pork-packing industry, which Iowa
is proud to name within her borders, is 6,000 hogs a day,
and employs 800 men. The owners have been in the pork-
packing business, first in Belfast, Ireland, then in New York
city and Cedar Rapids. They completed last summer a cold
air plant at a cost of $155,000, the finest by far in the
west. They make a specialty of choice kettle lard, with sam-
ples of the same on exhibition, and their " Fidelity " brands of
cured meats are the finest placed upon the market, elegant
samples of which are also shown in this booth, and sell readil}^
in New York and Liverpool. A large pyramid of tin pails
filled with choice kettle lard attracts the eye at once when you
enter this booth, while near it are large glass cases filled with
the most tempting hams that it has ever been our good fortune
to look upon, and our mind wanders back to the good old ham
and fresh eggs, which no one but our sainted mothers knew
how to make palatable. One can hardly believe that the
breakfast bacon seen here in glass cases is a part of the hog;
so perfect has been the curing of the same that the rolls show
as pretty and even a brown as if browned in the oven. This
handsome display by T. jNI. Sinclair & Co. is in charge of G.
P. Smith, foreman of the Sinclair & Co. retail markets in Cedar
Rapids, whom we find to be a most pleasant and agreeable
gentleman, and many thanks are due him for information lead-
ing to a description of this beautifully arranged exhibit in the
coal palace of 1890. He has made many friends during his
sojourn in the palace among the people of southern Iowa and
is seemingly in great demand by thousands of people passing
through the palace at all times during the great industrial ex-
position. Why.^ Because he gave away 6,000 pails of choice

IOWA LEAVES. . 327

lard and 5,000 miniature hams as souvenirs during the exposi-
tion. A few days before the presidential party arrived he sent
to the firm in Cedar Rapids and had a half dozen miniature
hams made of silk plush, bearing their trademark, which he
presented the presidential party as they passed through the T.
M. Sinclair display in the coal palace exposition, and were
greatly admired by them. This great pork-packing establish-
ment is certainly one of Iowa's greatest industries and T. M.
Sinclair & Co. will meet with a cordial welcome in the palace
of 1 89 1.

The R. T. Davis Mill Company of St. Joseph, Mo., has an
elegant display of their numerous brands of flour adjoining
the Sinclair display on the southeast, which we, having used
the Blue D. brand, pronounce excellent.

We pass on to the next displa}', that of John Morrell &
Co. of Ottumwa, pork-packers and shippers, who control a
large industry in this line in East Ottumwa and one of the
largest in the west. They make an excellent display of their
different brands of cured meats and choice kettle and refined
lard. Their booth is very artistic in effect, with a pretty
fountain playing in the center, while barrels of salt pork and
kegs of pickled pig's-feet are seen near the fountain. Glass
cases containing ham and breakfast bacon arranged with pretty
effect are principal attractions. Hanging on three sides of
the exhibit are hams, shoulders and bacon, bearing the John
Morrell brand; they are excellent, for we have used them.
Hundreds of pails of choice lard are seen throughout the booth;
also samples of refined lard in barrels. Hundreds visit this
display every day and all pronounce it one of the finest in the
palace. Their brands of cured meats sell readily on the
markets in our own country, as well as in all foreign countries,

328 IOWA LEAVES.

as the}- are extensive shippers and have one of the leading in.
dustries in the coal palace city.

NORTHERN PACIFIC RAILROAD EXHIBIT.

Now, reader, let us wander away to the magnificent gallery
floor of the great black diamond structure and gaze upon the
wonderful scenes of an elaborately decorated heaven, whose
sky is radiant with all the exquisite colorings seen in the
rainbow directly after a summer shower. Here our e}'es rest
on the beautiful exhibit made by the Northern Pacific railroad,
which has won fame throughout the state of Iowa in the year
of 1890 by the magnificent displays made first at the blue
grass palace at Creston, Iowa, at the state fair at Des Moines,
the capital city, and from thence to the great coal palace in the
city of Ottumwa. We are inclined to believe after seeing all
three that the display in the coal palace far surpasses those
at Creston and Des Moines. As we gaze on the magnificent
beauty of this booth, located in the extreme northeast portion
of the building, we are at once struck with the beauty and
exquisite effect of the ceiling decorations, manipulated by Mr.
Oscar Vanderbilt, district passenger and land agent for the
company at Des Moines, ably assisted by his wife, which sur-
pass all other decorations on the gallery floor, and elicit hearty
expressions of admiration and delight by a multitude who have
looked upon them since the opening of the great industrial
exposition. In this booth we see coal, iron, gold, copper and
silver, which come from the richest mines in the west — Mon-
tana, Idaho, Dakota and Washington — a valuable and beautiful
exhibit. Elegant samples of wool are shown, even finer than
those seen bv the author a few vears as^o at the state fair at
Lexington, Ky., in the famous blue grass regions, from the

IOWA LEAVES. 329

Cotswold and Angora sheep. When we look upon the
numerous and excellent varieties of wheat, both in the stalk
and in glass jars, we are fully persuaded that no other country
under the shining sun is as rich in the producing of golden
grains as these, which lie along the line of the Northern
Pacific railroad, in the extreme northern part of the United
States of America. They certainly excel in variety and quality
any we have ever seen from any other region of the globe.
First are samples of the Black African, of luxuriant growth,
the Chili Club, Long Chaff, Red Chaff, the Landreth and
Bairded Scotch Fife and elegant samples of No. i Hard wheat,
so extensively grown in Minnesota. The display of oats, barley
and millet is exceedingly fine and goes to show that the great
northwest is fully up to the eastern, southern and middle states
in the growing of large crops of grain. A great variety of
garden seeds is shown here in sacks, from Washington and
Oregon; peas, beans, sweet corn, squashes, cabbages, parsnips,
melons, pumpkins — every kind of garden vegetable is grown
successfully in this country and a fine line of fresh vegetables
is shown, consisting of large and well-matured heads of cab-
bage, beets, parsnips, melons, etc., and we are led to believe
that this country is very prolific in "garden sass." The luscious
and tempting fruits from Washington and Oregon exhibited
here are exceedingly fine, having been put up in large, clear
glass jars and form one of the most beautiful exhibits in the
palace and tempt the appetites of thousands, while the pyramid,
formed of sacks of flour, from the great Pillsbury mills in
Minneapolis, Minn., is a drawing feature. Reader, have 3'ou
ever seen flour put up in sacks, made of elegant satin, in colors
of old orold and roval blue? We never did until we looked
on these in the Northern Pacific exhibit. They are principal

330 IOWA LEAVES.

objects of interest, we assure you, and the compliments passed
on ''Pillsbury's Best" would make a volume, especially by those
w^ho have used the flour from these, the greatest mills in the
world, located at Minneapolis, on the banks of the greatest
river on the continent, near the beautiful falls of St. Anthony,
the output of which is thousands of barrels a day. This
exhibit is greatly admired by the ladies, who remark: "What
elegant cushions and pillows those lovely sacks would make!"
"Wish I had one!" and "Aren't they lovely.^" We would
advise Pillsburv Bros, to have a few thousand miniature ones
made and distributed as souvenirs next year at the palace. It
would prove a great advertisement foi them. The menageries
of wild animals on exhibition are the wonder and admiration
of all, especially the elk, with the finest pair of antlers in the
United States, which makes the eye of the hunter turn green
with envy. The huge buffalo head is a great curiosity, though
thousands of these animals, at one time, roamed free over our
prairies before a great tide of people came flowing in from the
regions of the morning. The head of a beautiful, innocent-
appearing antelope is seen here, while those of a moose, deer,
both black and white, a Rocky mountain sheep and an elk form
a beautiful and interesting exhibit. One almost imagines one-
self in the zoological gardens of St. Louis or Cincinnati, sur-
rounded by wild beasts from the forests and mountains of
Idaho and Montana.

Altogether the Northern Pacific railroad exhibit in the
coal palace of 1890 is one of the most interesting and novel in
the entire building and is well presided over b}' the district pas-
senger and land agent of Des Moines, Iowa, whose courteous
and liberal treatment of the public has won not only friends for
himself, but also for the great railroad he represents. Reader,

IOWA LEAVES. 331

we will start from St. Paul, Minn., the main eastern terminus
of the Northern Pacific railroad and make a flying trip over
this route to Tacoma, on Puget Sound, and note the many
beautiful cities and villages, lakes and rivers, mountains and
valleys, the agricultural regions, the grazing facilities, coal and
iron, precious metals, lumbering and fishing and last, but not
least, its great scenic wonderland and the most picturesque,
interesting and prosperous belt of country running between the
Mississippi valley and the Pacific coast. This territory has
more varied and striking scenery, more cultivated country,
-more towns and cities and better opportunities for settlement
and business than that tributary to an}' other transcontinental
line. For this reason the Northern Pacific is pre-eminently the
favorite route to and from the Pacific coast points for pleasure
tourists, for business men and for homeseekers. The eastern
termini are St. Paul and Minneapolis, Minn., and Duluth, Supe-
rior and Ashland on the southeast shores of Lake Superior.
St. Paul and Minneapolis are called the "Twin Cities" of the
north, being so closeh' united and are exceedingly interesting
places to visit by reason of their rapid and solid growth. Up
stream and down both banks of the great Mississippi river are
lined with mills, mills, mills — saw and lumber mills above the
great bridges; flour and woolen mills, but mainly flour, below.
Six, eight stories they tower aloft, the smokestacks belching
clouds by day; the countless windows flashing with electric
lights by night; the massive stone abutments and arches of the
railway bridges echoing to the clang of machinery and the roar
of tumbling waters. Ay, here are the wild rapids famed by
the old French missioharies — "the rushing of great rivers."
"Where are now the Ojibways and Dacotahs? Where the
forest and the prairie.^ In this, the once favored haunts of the

332 IOWA LEAVES.

red man, not a vestige of the painted Na-do-wee Sioux remains.
The forests have been felled and floated down the winding
stream; the broad prairies are criss-crossed far and near by
lines of metal, whereon the clanging cable car, puffing motor
or whirring electric trains dart to the suburbs of two great
cities, whose centers lie perhaps ten miles apart, whose out-
skirts melt one into the other on the wooded plateau halfway
between." Stately business structures, handsome residences,
noble public edifices, extensive industrial establishments and
vast commercial movements are all found in these cities.
*' Staid St. Paul has its winter carnival, wherein the worthy city
fathers give themselves up to frolic and fun with an abandon
that would do credit to that other crescent city at the tropical
end of the river. The great ice palace is built and gleams
with electric light and colored fires by night. Every man,
woman and child in all St. Paul seems to take part; there are
snowshoe clubs and toboggan clubs by the score; there is the
maddest variety of uniforms; there are wild gangs of hilarious
brokers, who seize and blanket-toss every catchable masculine;
drummers' clubs parade in mid-January in dusters and palm-
leaf fans; there are equipages that in cost and beauty would
shine in Central Park; there is a winter king of the carnival
who defends his stronghold against all comers in a grand final
storming of the ice palace, in which the whole population seem
to participate and in which fireworks by the ton and enthusi-
asm by the acre are lavished in magnificent display; the lead-
ing thoroughfares become long arcades of brilliant light, arched
over with countless globes of fire; the massive bluffs that hem
the winding valley are muffled in their mantle of snow; the
river itself goes swirling southward under armor-plating of
solid ice; the lofty iron bridges, spanning the stream from shore

IOWA LEAVES. . 333

to shore, some descending in easy grade into the lower town,
some, hke gossamer web, leaping the chasm from bluff to bluff.
are twinkling with moving lights; the network of the streets
of the lower city on both banks is traced by hundreds of
sparkling lamps; the lofty turrets of the capitol, the city hall,
the grand facades of the Pioneer Press and New York Life
buildings, the scores of beautiful homesteads far up on the
heights of Summit avenue and St. Anthony's hill are brilliant
with illumination; the electric globes blaze high aloft; above
all sparkle the stars in skies as clear as the ether of heaven;
below, in restless, joyous motion, swarm the populace; and all
the time the ice king's biting breath plays on glowing cheek
and wrinkled brow, keen, yet utterly forgotten/'

Ashland on the southeast shore of Lake Superior has the
greatest iron ore docks in the world and more wheat is shipped
from Duluth and Superior than from Chicago. The huge ele-
vators and coal docks at these neighboring cities are objects of
interest to the traveler. The western terminal city of the
Northern Pacitic system is Tacoma, on Puget sound, Wash.,
a place of marvelously rapid growth with an immense commer-
cial mart in wheat, coal and lumber, and with shipping rela-
tions with all Pacific coast ports and with the ports of China
and Japan. The most imposing snow-clad peak in Amer-
ica, Mount Tacoma, is in plain sight from the streets of the
city. From Tacoma a Northern Pacific line runs southward to
Portland, the rich and handsome commercial capital of the Co-
lumbia and Willamette valleys. Another branch runs north-
ward to Seattle, the prosperous commercial center of the
middle sound country.

The lake park region of Minnesota, which w^e pass
through on the journey over this route, is a place for artists

334 IOWA LEAVES.

to sketch and dream away the long sultry days of the sum-
mer time, or where poets might love to dwell. It is also an
attractive resort for the sportsman, whether his weapon be rod
or gun. The great number of cities and picturesque villages
along the line are as suggestive of contentment and cultivation
as those of our eastern states. St. Cloud, seventy-tive miles
above St. Paul; on the banks of the Mississippi river, thirty-five
years ago was a primeval forest ; to-day it has railroads, col-
leges, elegant public schools and tine churches, lovely streets,
pleasant homes and houses for 8,000 people. The east and
west bluff of the river where St. Cloud stands is high and
steep, while the broad and fertile prairies stretching back of its
level are very fertile, and from various points on this bluff the
river view is beautiful, especiall}' the one looking north to South
Rapids, two miles above. The writer lived two years in this
lovely city, not man}^ years since, and thoroughly enjoyed the
beautiful scenery surrounding it. It was in St. Cloud that the
wonderful Mrs. Swissholm published the most northwestern
newspaper in the early days of Minnesota. The next city
of interest is Brainai-d, "City of Pines", whose large popu-
lation is due to the Northern Pacific shops being located
there and lies in the midst of a hundred lakes, "cosy nooks
of sunshine that one may own within the compass of a farm,"
"pocket editions of poetr}^ in velvet and gold," lakes that from
under their wooded fringes gleam with an under soul and
flash back their introverted glances of the stars from depths
as pure as the heights of the down-gazing heavens — such lakes
as 3'ou can take into your confidence and talk to in quiet
hours as a lover talks to the imas^e in a crolden locket; bluer
than the stainless heavens whose fierce sunlight falls upon their
gentle waters.

IOWA LEAVES. 335

Then we come to the Red River of the North, where the
towns of Moorhead and Fargo are situated upon its banks.
Surrounding these cities are the most wonderful wheat countries
in the world, rich and luxuriant miles and miles of waving
wheat may be seen, where twenty-four self-binding reapers ride
side by side in harvest time, gathering in the golden grain. The
fields are as level as a floor, while the sky above is the most
beautiful blue, the wheat the most mellow of tints. Next are
Valley Cit}^ planted in the midst of hills; Bismarck, the capital
of North Dakota, situated in the valley of the Missouri, sur-
rounded by fair agricultural lands; Helena, the capital of Mon-
tana, with its gold and silver mines and reduction works ; Butte,
where more mineral wealth is annually produced than at any
other spot in the world. On we go and soon we see Spokane
Falls, with its beautiful cataract, forming the greatest water
power on the Pacific coast. So we might keep on naming beau-
tiful cities along this line, but will conclude with Tacoma on
Puget sound, "City of Destiny," its terminus, which has many
advantages over any other city on the western coast, being the
largest wheat shipping port in the west, and also lies in a
country rich in agricultural and mineral products.

The Northern Pacific runs through two of the greatest
wheat-o^rowingf regions in the world. The first is the hard wheat
belt in northern Minnesota and North Dakota, extending from
about the center of Minnesota westward to the western bound-
ary of North Dakota. This belt is 500 miles long and 300
miles wide and includes the famous valley of the Red River of
the North, which ranks for fertility with the valleys of the
Volga and the Danube in Europe. Here is produced the best
wheat in the world, known as "No. i Hard," a variety that can
be grown in no other part of the United States. This wheat

336 IOWA LEAVES.

contains a larger percentage of gluten than any other and
makes more flour to the bushel and better flour. The second
great wheat-growing region tributary to the Northern Pacific
is in Washington, where there is a stretch of rolling prairie
250 miles long by sixty miles wide, which produces regularly
from thirty to fifty bushels to the acre of a soft white wheat
and which has never failed in a crop. Most of this wheat goes
to Liverpool by way of Tacoma. In Montana, wheat yields
thirty to sixty bushels to the acre. Oats are extensively grown
in Minnesota, North Dakota and Washington, yielding from
twenty to fifty bushels to the acre. The Washington barley
ranks, for malting purposes, with that raised in California.
Another crop is potatoes, which are shipped from North
Dakota as far east as Chicago and are of a quality unequaled in
the east. Millet, rye, onions, peas, beets, cabbages and all other
garden vegetables grow prolifically here. In several of the rich
alluvial valleys of Washington hop growing is the chief industry,
the average yield being from 1,200 to 2,000 pounds to the acre,
against an average of 600 pounds in the hop districts of Wis-
consin and New York. All the fruits of the temperate zone
grow in Washington and also in some of the warm valleys of
western Montana. In North Dakota small fruits and berries
and hardy varieties of apples are grown. Dairying is becom-
ing an important industry in Minnesota and North Dakota
and numerous creameries are in successful operation.

All of Montana except the agricultural valleys and the
wooded mountain ranges, a large part of western North Dakota
and much of the Columbia basin in Washington and Oregon is
essentially a grazing country and is occupied by large herds of
cattle and flocks of sheep. The principal grass is the bunch
grass, which cures in the dry air of summer and furnishes food

IOWA LEAVES. 337

all winter. This grass is the most nutritious known, having
when dry the properties of both hay and grain. Cattle fatten
on it more rapidly than on the blue grass of Kentucky or the
buffalo grass of Nebraska or Colorado. Range cattle are not
sheltered or looked after in winter. They run over the open
countr}- and pick up their living on the dried standing grass.
Sheep are herded and kept in corrals during storms, but are
out on the open ranges most of the winter. Nearly 100,000
head of range cattle are shipped to eastern markets every fall
by the Northern Pacific. Sheep are shipped in large numbers
from Montana and Washington to St. Paul and Chicago. The
raising of horses is also a growing and profitable industry.
No winter care is given them and when rounded-up in the
spring they are found to be as fat as if they had been stabled
and well fed all winter. Eligible unoccupied locations may still
be found for engaging in any branch of the stock business. It
is a safe, profitable and independent way of getting a living
from the land.

Montana now leads all the states and territories in the pro-
duction of gold, silver and copper, her annual output exceeding
$30,000,000. The principal mining camps are on the slopes of
the main divide of the Rocky mountains, near Helena and
Butte, and on the flanks of the Belt mountains and Bitter Root
range. The recent construction of branch railroads penetrating
the mining districts has given a new impetus to this important
industry and new mines are constantly being opened up. Mon-
tana has at Marysville the greatest gold mine in the world
and at Butte the great copper mine and at the Granite mount-
ains the greatest silver mine. In northern Idaho, Coeur
d'Alene mining districts, reached by a Northern Pacific branch,
has come rapidly to the front as a great gold and silver region

338 IOWA LEAVES.

and is only in the infancy of its development. In Washington,
north of Spokane Falls, the Colville valley contains a number
of rich silver mines and the Okanagon country, reached from
either Wilber or EUensburg, is rapidly developing as a silver
and gold camp.

Nearly all the western North Dakota is underlaid with
seams of lignite coal, which makes a valuable fuel for domestic
use and for stationary steam engines. In Montana there are
enormous deposits of bituminous coal on Rocky Fork, south of
Billings, reached by a branch road from Laurel, on the Northern
Pacific. Coal is extensively mined at Roslyn, Carbondale and
other points; near the Cascade division of the Northern Pacific
are the most productive mines on the Pacific coast, furnishing
the railroad and the town with fuel and shipping large quan-
tities to San Francisco, one mine producing coking coal
exclusively and another gas coal. Iron ore is found at
numerous points in Washington and will soon become the basis
of an important industry. Lead abounds in Montana, Idaho
and Washington; granite, limestone and sandstone for building
purposes are quarried in many parts of Montana and marble
has been discovered in AVashington.

The pineries of northern Minnesota supply a large part of
the lumber used in that state and in North Dakota, Iowa,
Nebraska and Kansas. The lumber resources of Washington
are practically inexhaustible. The immense forest, which
envelops Puget sound and covers the Cascade and Olympic
mountains, is the finest body of timber in the world and is
estimated to contain 160,000,000,000 feet; the principal growths
are fir, spruce, pine, cedar, larch and hemlock. Lumber is
shipped from Puget sound and from the Columbia river to
California, Mexico, South America, China, Japan, Australia

IOWA LEAVES. 339

and New Zealand and ship spars are sent to the navy yards of
Europe,

The white fishing on Lake Superior is an important in-
dustry and the salmon fishing, at the mouth of the Columbia
river in Oregon and Washington, is a business of such great
dimensions that it supplies the civilized world with canned
salmon. For varied, grand, romantic and peculiar scenery no
journey of equal length compares with one over the Northern
Pacific; at the eastern end of this transcontinental highway is
Lake Superior, the greatest lake in the world; at the western
end is the Pacific, the greatest ocean in the world; Puget
sound, the most picturesque inland sea in the world, and the
Columbia river the finest scenic river on the continent. No
mountains on the Alps surpass in grandeur the gigantic solitary
snow peaks of the Cascade range. In northern Minnesota are
hundreds of small lakes as lovely as those of Scotland and
Ireland. The Bad Lands of Dakota is a singular region where
subterranean fires are still burning and where forests have been
petrified and strata of blue clay converted into red scoriae.
The Yellowstone National Park, reached by rail only by way of
the Northern Pacific, is the wonderland of the world, attracting
tourists from every part of the civilized globe to gaze upon its
surprising geysers, its boiling mud pools, its cliffs of shining
black obsidian, its profound canon, where the rocks have been
painted by nature with rainbow colors and its inspiring Rocky
mountain scenery. From Tacoma, the western terminus of the
Northern Pacific, steamers make the round trip to Alaska in
about two weeks — a distance of over 2,000 miles. This is
beyond question the most superb marine excursion in the world,
showing to the tourist the loftiest mountain peaks of the con-
tinent, glaciers, icebergs and beautiful locked bays, straits and

340 IOWA LEAVES,

estuarier. The route is entirely between islands and the main
land, so that, although the whole voyage is on salt water, there
is no suffering from seasickness.

The advent of the Northern Pacitic railroad six vears ao-o
as a competitor for through transcontinental business marked a
new era in railway passenger service between the east and the
Pacific coast. The most notable feature in connection with the
train service inaugurated by this new line was the introduction
of elegant dining cars, which were built at the Pullman car
works, being marvels of luxuries and of the most elegant
design and finish. In these cars the passenger sits down to a
bountiful "spread," comprising all the delicacies of the season,
on both Atlantic and Pacific coasts, as well as the fish and
game obtained from the country through which the road passes.

Not content with the great improvements made in the
past, the Northern Pacific railroad on May i, 1889, put in
service between St. Paul and Tacoma and Portland complete
vestibuled passenger trains. These trains are equipped with
the latest-improved automatic Westinghouse brakes, the
Westinghouse air signal, Miller platform, patent steel-tired
wheels and, in fact, every appliance and improvement in the
railway service that will contribute to the safety, convenience
and comfort of the traveler.

While making every effort to please the first-class and
tourist travel, the Northern Pacific railroad has not been
unmindful of the comforts of the intending settler destined to
Montana, Idaho, Oregon or Washington and through express
trains carry Pullman tourist sleepers and free colonist sleepers
equipped with all the latest improvements.

The great Northern Pacific railroad is certainly one of the
best and finest-equipped roads on the continent and has made

IOWA LEAVES. 341

an elegant display in the palace of 1890 and has made many
friends among the people of the greatest state in the Union, and
we can only add, "Come, ye gifted of the land, and gaze upon
the beautiful and elaborate display which she will undoubtedly
make in the great palace of 1891."

The next booth is occupied by the Pi Beta Phi society of
Ottumwa (formerly Ladies of the Iowa Chapter), Iowa Chap-
ter, Theta, the decorations of which were made by the ladies
of this society in this city and are very beautiful. All visit-
ing members are cordially welcomed to this booth and all
strangers' questions regarding the same pleasantly answered,
except it be those pertaining to the secrets of the order. This
bower of beauty and elegance is greatly admired by all lovers
of esthetic decorations. The next exhibit we notice on this
floor is the Lathrop museum and one of the most interesting in
the gallery. From morning until night every day throngs of
visitors crowd around this elegant collection of curiosities of all
sorts, brought together through the efforts of Dr. Lathrop of
the city of Ottumwa. All visitors unite in declaring it the very
best exhibit in the palace. New features are being added
every day and more space made, but even now it is, without
doubt, the finest collection in southeastern Iowa. We cannot
do justice to this exhibit in small space, but will hurriedly
describe the most interesting features. The first is a large col-
lection of mastodon bones by Dr. Lathrop, while Mr. Dahlberg
of Keosauqua has a large case of rare curiosities collected by
himself. S. A. Flagler of Ottumwa also has some very valua-
ble minerals. A. M. Rowland and L. S. Chichester make up
the quota of large exhibits; besides, many others have handed
in curiosities, and all together have succeeded in making it one
of the finest collections in the state.

342 IOWA LEAVES.

The Pueblo Indians are largely represented in one case and
the toys and rattles constructed of clay would make the toy-
makers of to-day open their eyes in wonder. Birds and beasts
of every description with pebbles in them constituted the sole
enjoyment of the Indian pappoose and no doubt had the desired
effect which the rubber or tin rattle has at the present day.
In this case are bits of pottery dug up from the mounds in
different parts of the country and with them were strange and
hideous idols of cla3\ The makers of these are supposed to be
the Aztecs and truly they were a wonderful race of people.
Hundreds of axes and arrow heads, from the long and broad
war arrow to the small, needle-pointed one used for killing
game. Some of the ax heads are beautiful, being double-
edged with a neat hole in the center for the helve. The work
of these wonderful people in stone can scarcel}'' be believed.
As we gaze on this exhibit made by Dr. Lathrop we see
objects that seem to bring us face to face with this great race
and we look upon the skulls of the Aztecs dug up from the
mounds in a perfect state of preservation and only kept from
crumbling by a thick coat of shellac outside and inside. There
is also a fine collection of meteoric stones on exhibition and one
is certainly a great curiosity. It consists of two stones welded
together like old-fashioned bar-shot. Among the num.erous
petrifications are a hornet's nest perfect in form, a beet over
six inches in diameter and a foot found seventy-three feet
below the surface of the earth in a coal mine and supposed to
be that of a deformed Aztec child. A whole forest of petrified
woods is lying in these cases and snails and worms turned to
stone can be counted b}' the score. A plaster cast of a big
calendar found in ^Mexico is leaning against the wall and near it
is a cast of another stone full of strange characters, found near

IOWA LEAVES. 343

Fairfield. Then there is the first invention of the percussion-
cap pistol, a small double-barreled affair with a knife blade
projecting in front. Next to this is an old-fashioned flintlock
pistol, while here in another case is a knife, once the property
of the notorious Frank James, and two bowie knives carried by
the Younger brothers. Hickory bows with sharp arrows hang
on the wall and one of them has a sad story, as it was taken
from the dead body of a white man in Kansas. Indian
" quirts " or whips are also plentiful. The old Indian chief
Powhatan is in profile on the wall, composed entirely of corn
and arrow heads and no doubt favors him very much. The
red man's love for "fire water" is well known and S. A.
Flagler has a jug that preaches a wonderful temperance lesson
to all visitors. It is made of clay and has shiny green snakes
crawling all over it and even down the spout. It is enough to
give anyone the delirium tremens to look at it.

Passing along w^e see something of still greater interest;
it is an old silver pipe which the "Father of his country" once
smoked. Near it is a large iron stirrup, once silver-plated,
which the first President of the United States often had his
foot in while riding over the state of Virginia, or on the battle-
fields of the Revolutionary war. These articles have passed
through but two hands since their noble owner died and are
known to be genuine facts. Here we see a copy of the Ulster
Co. (N. Y..) Gazette., containing Washington's obituary. A
sword made entirely of Chinese money is another interesting
curiosity and the weapons of the saw and sword-fish are worthy
of notice. Charles Junkin of Fairfield, Jefferson county, also has
a most interesting exhibit connected with the one of Dr. Lathrop.

A number of the best business firms in the city of
Ottumwa are represented on the gallery floor of this building

344 IOWA LEAVES.

with a most excellent showing; all kinds of goods are displayed
in all the new and novel designs imaginable, which attract
thousands to them every day.

The Des Moines Plating Works have an elegant display
of their goods on exibition, while a very wealthy firm of
Chicago has several cases of exquisite jewelry, diamonds and
watches displayed in a most tempting manner.

The Ottumwa Courier office in the extreme eastern portion
of the building seems to catch the crowds every day and we
find upon closer inspection that on an elegant hardwood table
lies an open register, on whose pages thousands have written
their names since the opening of the great black diamond
structure; the names are published in the Courier every day
and everybody buys the paper of course.

The Protect Each Other society of Ottumwa nave a beau-
tiful fairy grotto near the Courier office, the representation
being as complete a one as the writer has ever seen — a perfect
home for the fairies indeed. The initials, P. E. O., are made
every day of fresh cut roses and are beautiful.

There are numerous other very pretty things on this floor,
which we cannot possibly describe in this work, but in conclu-
sion we will give a brief description of a trip over the Coal
Mine route. Several friends and myself compose the party
and we step into the mine shaft from the gallery floor of the
palace. We are lowered slowly into the depths of the most
novel mine either in our own or in a foreign country and after
a few moments of indescribable agony we reach the bottom,
where we alight and pass into the coal mine depot to await the
coming of the mule train, in which we expect to travel through
the mines; while discussing the eventful trip, a large door opens
in front of us as if by magic and the most intelligent mule that

IOWA LEAVES. 345

we have }et met with walks in with three carts in the rear.
Being closely related to three conductors on the great " Q."
route, they have always impressed me with this fact in travel-
ing: "In cases of doubt always take the safe side," and if
possible secure a seat in the middle of the car; but, woman-
like, I forget their good advice and climb into the rear end of
the middle cart, which flies up with me and sends me sprawling
to the bottom of the coal-black mine. To say that I am for
a moment bewildered hardly expresses my utter astonishment,
while the rest of the party fairly scream with laughter and
ask "Are you hurt?" I do not mind the joke, but gather
myself up with the most extreme patience, while the docile
mule waits, and make a second attempt to climb aboard that
cart, which I accomplish, and take a seat in the middle of it.
The rest of the party being comfortably seated by this time,
the driver of the train shouts "All aboard! " and with a very
melodious voice branches out on the greatest coal-mine song
of the age, "Down in a Coal IMine Underneath the Ground,''
which he renders in the form of an anthem, until we reach our
destination. This trip over the Coal Mine route is without
doubt the most novel and interesting one that it has been our
good fortune to experience; everybody rides free; no tickets,
no passes, no mileage books, no annuals, no quarterlys, no free
employes' tickets; therefore, the conductor is relieved of the
duties imposed upon him by the "Duplex."

We pass in rapid succession the toiling miners, working
here with pick and drill, who have not seen the sun nor even
daylight perhaps for 3'ears, and our hearts go out to every coal
miner in the state of Iowa, for we have realized for the first
time in our lives the life of a man who earns the daily bread for
himself and family in a coal mine underneath the ground. One

346 IOWA LEAVES.

of our jolly party is acting as brakeman on this trip and the way
he works the air and hangs the hose up in the dummy proves
him an expert; but the poor mule! His name is Jordan and
he has a hard road to travel and a heavy train, but steam keeps
up pretty well and we pull into Coal Palace station on sched-
ule time, the whole party expressing themselves as delighted
with the trip. We are courteously assisted from the train and
a noble-looking fellow of Swedish birth steps up and escorts us
up a long, steep stairway leading to the first floor of the palace
and informs us that he has had the pleasure of assisting over
40,000 people from this mine since the opening of the great
industrial exposition. This coal minq is one of the most
romantic features of the palace and our whole party will prob-
ably take another journey over the same route in 1891. I
would say to all those who intend visiting the palace this fall,
don't miss the rare treat of going over the Coal Mine route,
and beware of accidents. In case of doubt always take the safe
side.

We pass now to the elevator; it carries us to the dome
of the palace, from which a most excellent view of the city of
Ottumwa is obtained and also of the beautiful country surround-
ing; and as we look down on the picturesque Des Moines river,
as it winds its way peacefulh^ on toward the great Mississippi,
our mind wanders back to the days when the Indian village of
Moin-gui-na stood on its banks amid the forests centuries ago,
and of what the future has brought forth from the regions of the
morning unto this, the finest section of country on the American
continent.

This magnificent black diamond structure will be thrown
open again to the world about October 15 and every man
woman and child in Iowa should see it and all those from

IOWA LEAVES. 347

Other states who can possibly make it convenient to do so
should come and look on the wonderful possibilities of art and
nature combined in this beautiful structure. Ottumwa, the
metropolis of southeastern Iowa, is lavish in her hospitality,
so you will meet with cordial treatment during 3'our sojourn
in the city and your visit to the palace cannot help being a
profitable one.

While Iowa ma}' be proud of the name she bears in
history, proud of her soil and climate, proud of her scenery,
lovely brooks, lakes and rivers, proud of her palace, she is
also proud of having the finest band in the Union — the Iowa
State Band of Des Moines — the palace band — and I cannot
lay this book aside and consider it finished without saying
that the excellent music rendered by this band at the palace in
Iowa in the year of 1890 was certainly the finest, without any
exception, ever heard by people in any country on the globe
and was fully appreciated by thousands and thousands who
visited the palace, and we hope to have again the pleasure of
listening to their excellent renditions in the palace of 1891.

Ottumwa has a combination of conditions and circum-
stances which can scarcely be ignored by anyone, but more
especially the merchant and manufacturer, seeking a change of
location and to each and all of such Ottumwa extends a warm
invitation to come and investigate her claims; see her busy
mills, filled with well-paid, contented workmen, the grand busi-
ness structures stocked with goods from all parts of the world,
the handsome streets, beautiful schools and churches, the cosy
homes of the laboring classes; contentment and happiness are
seen on all sides — a charmed circle, as it were, of happy, thrifty
people. Ottumwa is entitled to the name of ''Lowell" of the
west; her factories and mills are many. Five lines of railways

348 IOWA LEAVES.

run throuo;h or have their termini here and the sixth is in
course of construction; the Santa Fe gives to the city as
advantageous facihties for transportation as has any city in the
Union. She has one of the finest water powers in the state and
enjoys the further and still greater advantage of being in the
very center of one of the greatest lields of bituminous coal
lying between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans and of a quality
excelled by none.

PART FIFTH

NORTHWESTERN IOWA

CORN PALACE REGIONS, WITH FULL AND COM-
PLETE DESCRIPTION OF THE CORN PALACE,
OR EIGHTH WONDER OF THE WORLD.

CHAPTER I.

PIONEER PERIODS OF THE NORTHWEST.

In January, 1803, President Jefferson in a confidential mes-
sage to congress in regard to Indian affairs took occasion to
recommend, among other things, the organization of a party to
trace the Missouri river to its source and thence proceed to the
Pacific ocean. The recommendation was favorably considered
and Capt. Merriwether Lewis was, on his own application,
appointed to take charge of the expedition. William Clarke
was subsequently associated with him, so that this celebrated
expedition is known in our history as that of Lewis and Clarke.

The incidents of this long, tedious and romantic journey
are worthy to be related as among the most interesting in the
annals of American adventures. At that time all that vas
region bordering on the upper Missouri and its tributaries, as
well as the regions bordering on the Pacific, was unknown and
unexplored by white men. By the latter part of 1803 the party
comprising the expedition was ready to start.

Besides Captains Lewis and Clarke the party was made
up of nine young men from Kentucky, twelve soldiers of the
regular army, two Frenchmen as watermen and interpreters
and a colored servant belonging to Capt. Clarke — twenty-six
persons in all. A corporal, six soldiers and nine watermen in
addition to the above were engaged to accompany the expedi-
tion as far as the country of the Mandans, as there was some
apprehension of attacks by the Indians between Wood river

351

352 IOWA LEAVES.

and that tribe. Three boats were provided for the expedition.
The largest was a keel boat fifty-five feet long, drawing three
feet of water, carrying one large, square sail and twenty-two
oars. The other two were open boats, one of six and the other
of seven oars.

The expedition started from the encampment at the mouth
of Wood river on Monday, May 14, 1804. Capt. Lewis, who
was at that time in St. Louis, joined the expedition at St.
Charles, twenty-one miles up the river, which place they reached
on the 1 6th. Here they remained until the 21st, when they
proceeded on their voyage, reaching La Charnetts, the last white
settlement, on the evening of the 25th. This village consisted
of but seven poor families. On June i they arrived at the
mouth of the Osage, 133 miles on their journey. The country
bordering on this river was inhabited by a tribe known as the
Osage Indians. They had a remarkable tradition among them
as to the origin of their nation. They believed that its founder
was a snail passing a quiet existence along the banks of the
Osage till a flood swept him down to the Missouri and there
left him exposed on the shore. By the heat of the sun he was
changed to a man. The change, however, did not cause him to
forget his native place, away up on the banks of the Osage,
and he immediately sought his old home. Being overtaken
with hunger and fatigue the Great Spirit appeared, gave him
a bow and arrow and taught him to kill deer and prepare their
flesh for food and their skin for clothing.

When he arrived at his original place of residence he was
met by a beaver, who inquired who he was and by what
authority he came to disturb his possession. The Osage
replied that he had once lived on the border of that river and
that it was his own home. While they were disputing the

IOWA LEAVES. 353

daughter of the beaver appeared and entreated her father to
be reconciled to the young stranger. The father yielded to
her entreaties and the Osage soon married the beaver's
daughter. They lived happily on the banks of the Osage and
from them soon came the villages and nation of the Osages.
Ever since they entertained a pious reverence for their ancestors,
never killing a beaver, for by so doing they would slay a
brother. It has been observed, however, that after the open-
ing of the fur trade with the whites the sanctity of their
maternal relations was very much reduced.

The next tribe mentioned by the explorers was that of the
Missouris, once a powerful nation but then reduced to about
thirty families. They finally united with the Osages and
Ottoes and as a separate nation became extinct. The Saukes,
Ayauways (lowas) and the Sioux are mentioned as being the
enemies of the Osages and making frequent excursions against
them. On June i6 they arrived at the mouth of the Kansas,
340 miles from the Mississippi, where they remained two days
for rest and repairs. The party, at this stage of their journey,
saw numerous buffaloes on the prairies. On July 2 the party
passed Bear Medicine island, near which were the remains of
an old fort built by the French, the ruins of the chimneys and
general outline of the fortification being visible. On July 8
they reached the mouth of the Nodaway. The river is men-
tioned as navigable for boats some distance. On July 1 1 they
landed at the mouth of the Nemaha. Mention is made of
several artificial mounds on the Nemaha, about two miles up
the stream at the mouth of a small creek. From the top of
this mound there was a fine view of the country. On July 14
they passed the Nishnabatona river, finding it only 300 yards
from the Missouri at a distance of twelve miles from its mouth.

354 IOWA LEAVES.

Platte river and other streams both in Iowa and Nebraska are
mentioned and the country described with great accuracy.
Along in this part of the country were the first elk the}^ had seen.
On July 2 2 the explorers encamped on the north (Iowa)
side of the river, ten miles above the mouth of the Platte river,
to make observations and to hold an interview with the neigh-
boring tribes. They remained here in camp until the 27th.
Among the streams mentioned in this vicinity are the Papillon,
Butterfly creek and Moscheto creek, the last-named being a
small creek near Council Bluffs. The Indians who occupied
the countr}^ about the mouth of Platte river at this time were
the Ottoes and Pawnees. The Ottoes were much reduced and
formerly lived about twenty miles above the Platte, on the
Nebraska side of the river. They lived at this time under
the protection of the Pawnees. The latter were also much
dispersed and broken. One branch of the nation formerly
lived on the Republican branch of the Kansas river. Another
band were the Pawnee Loupe, or Wolf Pawnees, who resided
on the Wolf fork of the Platte; another band originally resided
on the Kansas and Arkansas, but in their wars with the Osages
they were often defeated and retired to the Red river. On
the 27th they continued their journey and about ten leagues
from their encampment on the south (Nebraska) side of the
river they saw and examined a curious collection of graves or
mounds of different heights, shapes and sizes. Some were of
sand and others of both earth and sand. They were supposed
to indicate the position of the ancient village of the Ottoes
before they retired to the protection of the Pawnees. On the
29th they passed the spot where the A3'auway Indians, a branch
of the Ottoes, once lived and who had emigrated from that
place to the Des Moines. Mention is here made of an inter-

IOWA LEAVES. 355

view with one of the Missouri Indians who Hved with the
Ottoes and the resemblance of his language to that of the
Osages, particularly in calling a chief, nica.

On July 30 the party encamped on the south side of
the river. At that place, next to the river, was a plain and
back of it a wooded ridge, rising about seventy feet above the
plain. At the edge of this ridge they formed their camp and
sent an invitation to the Indians to meet them. From the bluffs
at this point they mention a most beautiful view of t*he river
and adjoining country. The latitude of the camp was deter-
mined by observation to be forty-one degrees, eighteen minutes
and fourteen seconds. The messenger sent to invite the
Ottoes returned on the evening of August 2 with fourteen
Ottoe and Missouri Indians, accompanied by a Frenchman
who resided among them and who acted as interpreter. Lewis
and Clarke made them presents of pork, flour and meal and the
Indians returned presents of watermelons. The next morning
(August 3d) a council was held with the six chiefs who were
of the party of Indians. They were told of the change in the
government and promised protection and advised as to their
future conduct. All the chiefs expressed their joy at this
change in the government and wished to be recommended to
the Great Father (the President) that they might obtain trade
and necessaries of life. They asked the mediation of the
Great Father between them and the Omahas, with whom they
were then at war. At the conclusion of the council medals
and other presents were given to the chiefs and also some
presents to the other Indians who were with them. The grand
chief of the Ottoes was not present, but to him was sent a flag,
a medal and some clothing. The explorers gave to the place
where this council was held the name of Council Bluffs. The

356 IOWA LEAVES.

reader will remember, however, that it was above the present
city of Council Bluffs, Iowa, and was on the Nebraska side of
the river.

On the afternoon of August 3 they resumed their jour-
ney and on the 7th arrived at the mouth of a river on the
north side, called by the Sioux Indians "Eaneah wadepon"
(Stone river) and by the French Petite Riviere des Sioux., or irL
English, Little Sioux river. The explorers were informed by
their interpreter (M. Durion) that this river rises within about
nine miles of the Des Moines; that within fifteen leagues of ^
that river it passes through a large lake, nearly sixty miles in'
circumference and divided into two parts by rocks which
approach each other closely. Its width is various, it contains
many islands and is known by the name jL<ic (V Esprit (Spirit
lake). The country watered by it is open and undulating and
may be visited in boats up the river for some distance. The
explorers speak of a long island, two miles above the mouth of
the Little Sioux, which they named Pelican island — from the
large number of pelicans which were feeding on it, one of which
they killed. They also killed an elk. On the loth they
passed the first highland near the river after leaving their
encampment at Council Bluffs. Not far from this, on a high
bluff, was the grave of Blackbird, one of the great chiefs of
the Mahas, who had died of small-pox four years before. The
grave was marked by a mound, twelve feet in diameter at the
base and six feet high and was on an elevation about 300 feet
above the water. In the center of the grave was a pole, eight
feet high. Near this the Mahas had a village and lost 400
men of their nation and a like proportion of women and
children by small-pox at the time Blackbird died. After this
dreadful scourge they burned their village which had consisted

IOWA LEAVES. 357

of 300 cabins. On a hill at the rear of the place where the
village stood were the graves of the nation.

On the evening of the i8th the explorers were again
visited at their camp by a party of Ottoes and Missouris, who
entertained them with a dance. The profound object of their
visit was to ask intercession for promoting peace between them
and the Mahas, but probably the real object was to share a
portion of the strangers' provisions and liquors.

The next day, August 20, after passing a couple of islands,
they landed on the north side of the river, under some bluffs.
It was here that the party had the misfortune to lose one of
their men, Sergeant Charles Floyd. He had the day before
been seized with a bilious colic. Before his death he said to
Capt. Clarke, "I am going to leave you; I want you to write
me a letter;" soon after making this request the bave soldier
passed away.

He was buried on the top of the bluff with all the honors
due a brave soldier. The place of his interment was marked
by a cedar post on which his name and the day of his death
were inscribed. About a mile farther up on the same side of
the Missouri they came to a small river to which they gave the
name of Floyd river, in honor of their deceased companion.
The place of the burial of Sergeant Floyd was but a short dis-
tance below where Sioux City now stands. During a great
freshet in the spring of 1857 the Missouri river washed away
a portion of the bluff, exposing the remains of the soldier.
The citizens of Sioux City and vicinity repaired to the place,
and with appropriate ceremonies re-interred them, some dis-
tance back from the river on the same bluff. The same cedar
post planted by his companions over his grave on that summer
day more than half a century before remained to mark the

358 IOWA LEAVES.

place of interment up to 1857, though nearly all of this time
the country had been inhabited only by savages. All that goes
before — it would make a chapter of a romantic story — relates
to the time of pure adventure in the northwest rather than to
its substantial development. It includes the day of explora-
tion, of the French voyageur, of the trader and the trapper.

The first account of the visit of white men to Woodbury
county in northwest Iowa, is that of the famous expediton of
Lewis and Clarke, mentioned above, in 1804.

In the summer of 1848, a single pioneer, William Thomp-
son, settled at Floyd's bluff, his brother and another man join-
ing him in the fall. Next year he laid out a town there, calling
it Thompsonville. Thompson's cabin was the sole improve-
ment, but on the organization of the county in 1853, the ville
was made the county seat, and it was a sort of post for Indian
traders for some years. Not a vestige of Thompsonsville now
remains.

In May, 1849, Theophili Brughier, a French Canadian,
settled at the mouth of the Big Sioux, two miles above the orig-
inal city, but now within the city limits, the most beautiful spot
in the northwest and known as Riverside park. Brughier had
been in the employ of the American Fur company, but leaving .
them and- joining the Yankton Sioux Indians he married the
daughter of their celebrated chief War Eagle. He acquired
great influence among the Indians and War Eagle died at his
home in 1851. The remains of the old chief, with those of his
daughter, Brughier's wife, and several others of the famil}', now
repose on the summit of a lofty bluff near the mouth of the Big
Sioux river, within the present limits of Sioux City.

The next two settlers of 1849 were Robert Perry, who
settled on the creek which bears his name, flowing now through

IOWA LEAVES. 359

the heart of the city, and Paul Pacquette, who settled on the Big
Sioux. In the spripg of 1852 Joseph Leonias purchased of
Brughier the quarter-section on which the business portion of
Sioux City is now built.

There was no further improvement until 1854 when Dr.
John R. Cook, who had a contract under the government to
survey a part of northwestern Iowa, landed here. Refusing to
be intimidated b}^ a band of Indians under Smutty Bear, their
chief, who were encamped here, Dr. Cook, impressed with the
importance of the site and the beauty of the surroundings, boldly
located a claim, as did several of his own party, and began
to lay out Sioux City in December, 1854. Dr. Cook's claim and
the original town site lay on the west side of Perry Creek, but
the next spring he purchased of Joseph Leonias his quarter-sec-
tion and laid out Sioux City, east addition.

It would require more space than there is at command to
chronicle the events of the next few years. Indians frequentl}^
passed through the town in war paint and uttered whoops,
sometimes admonishing the settlers to leave, but no violence or
bloodshed occurred. In the spring of 1855 there were two log
cabins on the site of Sioux City. In July of this year the first
stage and mail arrived; Dr. Cook was the first postmaster.
Before the close of 1855 there were seven log houses, two of
them hotels. There were two stores, one in a tent and the
other in a log cabin. A land office was opened for pre-emption,
but not for sale till May, 1857. The county seat was removed
here from Floyd's Bluff or Thompsonville in 1856. Sioux City
was incorporated by an act of the legislature, approved January
16, 1857, and the first city election took place August 31, 1857.
The first newspaper was edited by Seth W. Swiggett. It was
called the Sio/ex City Eagle and was first issued July 4, 1857.

360 IOWA LEAVES.

The first steamboat freighted for Sioux City arrived in
June, 1856, bringing provisions and ready-framed houses. The
base of suppHes was then, and for years after, St. Louis and
transportation was by way of the Missouri river. The com-
manding commercial relation of Sioux City to the great north-
west, even at that early day, was clearly perceived, since from
it as a depot freights were distributed by water carriage to the
trading posts, government stations and scattered settlements of
the upper Missouri valley. During 1856 the population in-
creased to 400 and about ninety buildings were erected.

It must be remembered that this was before the day of
railroad development west of the Mississippi river. Two or
three weak lines had been constructed for short distances west
of that river, but their progress was slow. The Pacific railroads
were yet far in the future. Chicago, even, was yet in its day
of small things and the settlement of the upper Mississippi
valley, from which Chicago later fed its majestic strength, was
onl}' in its beginning. The upper Missouri valley, opening
above Sioux City, was still a primeval wilderness, still to be
disputed over with the countless bands of Indians and herds of
buffaloes which roamed over it.

But Sioux City grew steadily with the westward exten-
sion of settlement. It is needless now to recount the various
stages of growth by which in 1868, the advent of the first rail-
road, it reached a population of 1,030. This was the day of
the steamboat, the stage, the freighters' wagon. While these
things remained many years after the opening of the first rail-
road, notably during the four 3'ears beginning with 1875, when
the Black Hills mines were discovered, yet the advent of the
railroad in 1868 revolutionized the movement of trade through
Sioux City to the northwest, finally fixing the base of suppl}- at

IOWA LEAVES. 361

Chicago instead of at St. Louis. The change marked a new
era in the history both of Sioux City and the northwest. It
involved for them an ampler and more energetic development.
But the material fact indicated by the history of the old
era, as well as of the new, is the commercial identity of Sioux
City with the upper Missouri valley, whether the distribution
of supplies was effected from St. Louis or from Chicago as the
base.

SIOUX CITY, THE PRIDE OF NORTHWEST IOWA.

On the sight of Dr. Cook's claim in 1854, and the addi-
tion thereto since made, there is now a city of 50,000 inhabit-
ants. Such change from a pioneer settlement to a commanding
trade center is a transition which could occur only in the west.

It is not the intention here to describe in detail the Sioux
City of to-day, but rather to reserve space for some exposition
of the logic of its situation. A few representative facts, how-
ever, may be briefly summarized.

The Sioux City of the railroad epoch, beginning in 1868,
when the Sioux City & Pacific railroad was opened to Mis-
souri Valley, seventy miles south, making connection there with
an east and west railroad, shared the rising enthusiasm of the
northwest and grew steadil}'.

During the next few years enterprising men projected
lines of road into the region about Sioux City northwardly,
with a view to ultimate connection with the Northern Pacific
northwesterly through southern Dakota and directly west
through northern Nebraska from the opposite shore of the Mis-
souri. Nearly all these routes have since been occupied by
trunk or branch lines radiating from Sioux City, but then
there was success in building only a few spurs, when

362

IOWA LEAVES.

railroad enterprise was smitten with the general industrial
paralysis which followed the great failure of Jay Cooke & Co.
in 1873. But Sioux City grew steadily; it had a population of
4,290 in 1875 and the federal census of 1880 showed an increase
to 7,366 inhabitants. The state census of 1885 fixed the popu-
lation at 19,060 and a census taken eighteen months later,

HOTEL GARRETSON, SIOUX CITY.

including terrtiory since added by the extension of the corporate
limits, showed a population of 26,000. The notable growth of
Sioux City, it will be seen, has been since 1880 and in fact
20,000 of the 50,000 of its present population have been drawn
hither since 1882.

IOWA LEAVES. 363

Sioux City to-day is the center of live great trunk lines
of railway, which have thirteen main and branch lines diverg-
ing hence through northern Iowa, southern Minnesota, Ne-
braska, Dakota, Wyoming and Montana. These companies
have a machine shop here and a railroad bridge across the
Missouri river, costing $1,250,000, is approaching completion.
Thirty-six passenger trains arrive and depart daily.

The largest jobbing center in Iowa and also the largest
jobbing center in the great northwest, filling its own distinct
field and competing with Omaha on the one hand and Minne-
apolis and St. Paul on the other. All the principal lines of
jobbing are represented. The sales for 1887 amounted to over
$8,500,000. Two hundred commercial travelers represent the
city in the tributary territory. While within half a decade
population has quadrupled, business has increased eightfold.

The total expenditure for building improvements during
1887 on a careful and and accurate basis of ascertainment was
$2,854,856; for 1886, $1,292,528; for 1885, $1,024,471; for
1884, $980,395; for 1883, $660,949; for 1882, $637,324.

There are nine banking houses, with a capital of $2,000,-
000, which in 1887 sold exchange to the amount of
$57,000,000, a banking interest exceeding that of any other
city in Iowa. The postal receipts in 1887 were $46,017, against
$32,211 in 1886, while the money-order business was $954,-
345.46, and increase of 30 per cent, over 1886. The telegraph
business is the largest in the northwest, there being a remark-
able increase during the past two years, while the business of
the three express companies represented here has trebled during
the same period.

Sioux City is one of the five greatest packing centers in
the United States. There are three great packing establish-

364

IOWA LEAVES.

ments — those of Bouge, Silberhorn and Fowler. These have a
capacity of 15,000 hogs and 2,000 beeves per day. In addition,
it is practically assured that one of the largest dressed beef
establishments in the world will be built here during the
present year.

UNITED BANK BUILDING, SIOUX CITY.

The stock yards, in the vicinity of which the packing-
houses are situated, are one of the most important factors in
Sioux Cit3''s growth. They grew out of the concentration here
of live stock transactions and, though founded less than three
years ago, they have accommodations for 6,000 hogs, 10,000
cattle, 2,000 sheep and 2,000 horses. Over $750,000 was
expended last year in improving this property and extensive

IOWA LEAVES. 365

improvements are being made all the time. The yards include
1,490 acres of suburban land and 200 city lots. In addition to
the packing establishments, which give employment to hun-
dreds of men, there are the linseed oil mills, the second largest
in the world, flour mills, foundries, machine shops, candy and
cracker factory, oatmeal mill, brick and tile works, plow works,
vinegar and pickling works, etc.

The public improvements are in harmony with Sioux
City's progressive character and yet so rapid is its growth that
they are in rear of the public demand. In 1887 nearly $1,000,-
000 was expended in improvements of a purely public char-
acter and a much larger sum will be expended this 3'ear.

The city has sixty miles of graded streets, fifteen miles of
cedar block paving, fourteen miles of street railway and five
of motor line in operation, five miles of cable car line and
five miles of new motor line in construction and is located
between three rivers, affording admirable drainage. This
healthful situation is made perfect by the modern system of
sewage. Here are the finest waterworks in the northwest, con-
sisting of two Holly-Gastel patent pumps of 4,000,000 gallons
daily capacity, with reservoir of 1,500,000 gallons capacity
and twent3^-one miles of mains.

Sioux City has a paid, professional fire department, one of
the finest opera-houses in the west, the largest telephone
exchange in Iowa, gas and electric light, etc., four daily — one
morning and three evening — papers, besides a variety of weekly
and other periodicals, an unrivaled system of public education,
churches of all denominations, benevolent and charitable organ-
izations, public library. Young Men's Christian Association
building, Samaritan Home (hospital), maintained by the
Women's Christian Association, etc., etc., Sioux City Jobbers

IOWA LEAVES. 367

& Manufacturers' Association, maintaining a salaried com-
missioner of freights, and the Chamber of Commerce Asso-
ciation.

Such are only a handful of facts chosen from a multitude
of others because they are representative facts. From them
may be inferred some idea of Sioux City as it is.

Sioux City is situated at the point where the Missouri riv^er
makes the great bend to the west, just as at Kansas City it
makes the great bend to the north. Precisely at Sioux City
the drainage systems of northwestern Iowa, northern Nebraska
and the whole of southern Dakota converge. The Big Sioux
river from due north, forming the boundary line between Iowa
and Dakota, joins the Missouri and the angle thus formed in
eludes the west and south boundaries of the corporate limits
of Sioux City. From its confluence with the Sioux river the
Missouri flows over loo miles from almost due west, form-
ing the boundary line between Dakota and Nebraska. The
whole of the southeastern quarter of Dakota is drained by the
James and Vermilion rivers and innumerable smaller streams
which flow almost due south, parallel to the Sioux, their fertile
valleys debouching upon the Missouri at short distances above
Sioux City. The drainage of northern Nebraska is the exact
counterpart of that of southern Dakota, the Niobrara flowing
northeast and joining the Missouri, where it ceases to be the
boundary line between Nebraska and Dakota, while from that
point to Sioux City scores of minor streams flow northerl}- and
northeasterly through Nebraska to a confluence with the Mis-
souri. On the Iowa side the whole northwestern quarter of the
state, with a portion of INIinnesota, is drained info the Missouri
at Sioux City, the Sioux river at its mouth forming its western
boundary, as before stated, the Floyd river passing through the

368 IOWA LEAVES.

city limits and the Little Sioux entering the Missouri at no
great distance below.

Remember now that the trade territory of Sioux City
in northwestern Iowa alone is 8,000 square miles, draining
naturally, as in trade, to this point. Remember that southern
Dakota, which opens northwesterly from Sioux City as
a gate, includes 60,000 square miles, while due west of
Sioux City there is in northern Nebraska 26,000 square miles.
Here is a territory of 94,000 square miles which centers
naturally at Sioux City. And let it be borne in mind,
moreover, that this territory, immense as it is, is only part of
the territory now actually occupied or reached by Sioux City's
trade.

To illustrate its importance and immensity, attention need
only be called to the fact that just west of the Missouri river,
after it again turns north at a point 100 miles west of Sioux
City, lies the great Sioux Indian reservation, a splendid agricult-
ural and grazing region, of which 16,000 square miles, an area
of incomparably richer natural resources than any one of a
dozen states of the Union, which might be mentioned, has been
opened by congress to settlement.

The drainage of this region flows almost due east into the
Missouri, and along the valleys of these tributary streams two
great corporations — the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul and the
Chicago & Northwestern — are hastening to build into the won-
derful mineral and cattle regions beyond, carrying the fruits of
the same over their main systems to Sioux City, and, on the
other hand, from it as the distributing point, supplying them and
the thousands of settlers who have flocked into that territory.

But the significant fact is that so vast a country as this
Sioux reservation opened to development is only a fraction of

IOWA LEAVES. 369

Sioux City's trade territory, bound up in a common interest
with it alike by the artificial systems of communication and the
outlines and conformation of the country. This is why there is
a city where Sioux City stands to-day.

Among immediate causes, what most of all has made
Sioux City great? The soil of the region surrounding it.
What is the soil? Those properties which make it the greatest
corn section, not only in the United States but in the world.
Take the territory about Sioux Cit}', including northwestern
Iowa and the adjacent land in southern Dakota and northern
Nebraska within a radius of loo miles, extending indefinitely
"upward along the flood plains of the Missouri river and its
tributaries, and the United States may be challenged for another
region equaling or approaching this as a corn country, and, for
the same reasons which make it a corn country, it is surpass-
ingly fruitful in all the substantial cereals and other agricultural
products.

This is the pre-eminent corn country of the continent, be-
cause it has never had from any cause a failure of corn.
Drought and excessive moisture do not disastrously affect it,
as they do the corn-fields of other sections of country. The
crowning felicity of the Sioux City corn-field, the pre-eminent
excellence of the northwestern soil, is not merely its extraordi-
nary fertility, but also its average availability for agricultural
purposes, year after year. The peculiar character of the soil
of northwestern corn-fields makes it much more easy and
far less expensive to cultivate, to plow, to plant, to tend the
crop.

Northwestern Iowa is not only a vast corn-field but an
enormous hog-pen as well, and it is a cattle country because it
is a corn country. The steer and the hog go together and both

370 IOWA LEAVES.

together form the close-fitting halves of a machine for working
up and condensing the raw material of the corn-held.

There are twenty counties in northwestern Iowa which are
within the assured range of Sioux City's trade, and less than
one-third of the northwestern corn region, which includes as
well the adjacent portions of southeastern Dakota and north-
eastern Nebraska, lying on both sides of the Missouri river,
west of Sioux City. The northern edge of the corn belt is
only a few tiers of counties north and thence its boundary line
curves around Sioux City southwesterly in Dakota and Nebraska.
This is the great body of the distinctively corn country and,
although the boundary line is not regular, it is located at no
great distance, relatively speaking, west and northwest from
Sioux City, except along river valleys, which of course extend
it in narrow strips considerably beyond the general western
limit. Sioux City thus is in the corner of the northwestern corn
country, while the rich corn-fields are carried indefinitely east
and south across the state of Iowa.

If there were space, it would be interesting to pause here
and consider in detail the building of railroads in the upper
Missouri valley and their centralization at Sioux City. The
extraordinary and absolutel}^ unparalleled development of this
vast region, with whose growth and destiny the growth of
Sioux City is indissolubly bound up, has been conditioned upon
the building of railroads as well as upon the marvelous richness
of its soil, for by the former the fruits of the latter are made
available and the rapid tendency to lower rates of transporta-
tion, especially during the past ten 3'ears, has had the effect to
bring the cheap, rich lands of the northwest practically as near
the seaboard markets as the high-priced and exhausted lands
of the east. Thus Sioux City is the point of convergence of

10 IV A LEAVES. 371

five great railroad systems, viz., the Illinois Central, the Chi-
cago & Northwestern, the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul, the
Chicago, St. Paul, Minneapolis & Omaha, and the Sioux City &
Northern. The Sioux City & Pacific, the first road to reach
Sioux City in 1868, is now a part of the Chicago & North-
western system.

The men of Sioux City from the very first have been
instant in all the great enterprises — public and private — which
in their combined result have now established its commercial
primacy in the upper Missouri valley according to the natural
indications of the same. Throughout the entire series of
achievements tending: to this end Sioux Citv itself has taken
the initiative and, acting on the faith which it had in itself, has
established itself in the faith of the world, thereby bringing in
the co-operation of the capital and enterprise of the east and
enlisting the aid of the great railroad corporations and other
concerns which have done so much for Sioux City. There is
not, and never has been, division of council, faction or jealousy
in Sioux City, but in the presence of opportunity for public
enterprise all citizens of all classes have fused in enthusiastic
harmony, whether the proposition was a tax in aid of a railroad,
to build a bridge, to insure machine shops or for any other im-
portant work. It is this public-spirited harmony, under the
direction of a few far-seeing and intrepid citizens — men who
have themselves voluntaril}^ assumed great burdens and risks in
the common cause, — that has accelerated the destiny which
Sioux City's natural relations to the upper Missouri valley
marked out for it. By such independent endeavor nearly
every trunk line of railroad, and most of the branch lines, now
converging here were secured; thus the opera-house; thus the
great hotel; thus the first of the machine shops; thus many of

372 IOWA LEAVES.

the important commercial and manufacturing interests. But
the most notable fruits of this policy have been within the
period of the last three years, during which were secured these
capital achievements — the railroad bridge across the Missouri,
the great packing establishments, three new branch lines of
railroad and one trunk line and the most wonderful corn palace
on the face of the globe.

CHAPTER 11.

THE WONDER OF THE NEW WORLD.

Where the Indian used to roam
Now the white man finds a home,
And the tepee is no more
On the lower " ^Nluddy's " shore.
Where the Big Sioux river flows,
Now a city thrives and grows,
But the famous yellow maize
Has outlived the Indian's days.
And each coteau, plain and hill
Yields the golden kernels still,
And the pale-face by the Sioux
Offering makes to Manitou,
After every harvest moon,
For this never-failing boon.
And he apes the Indian's ways
With a temple built of maize,
Under whose palatial wing
Wam-na-he-za reigns as king.
And War Eagle on the hill
In his sleep has visions still.
And he sees the palace rise
Upward to the sun-kissed skies.
And the famous Indian brave
Mutters softly in his grave
Just as if he understood:
" Wano ! Wano ! It is good 1 "

'Twas in the year 1890, and time was rapidly hastening
or toward the hazy days of autumn, and King Corn reigned
supreme throughout the regions of the great northwest.
Already the song of the reapers has died away and from afar
are cauo;ht faint murmurs — voices of the merry huskers. Only

373

37i IOWA LEAVES.

a few short years ago this now haughty monarch bowed to
Cotton who proclaimed in clarion tones, "I am king! " but now
it is his turn to bow in silent humility, while King Corn calls upon
the entire world to come and view his grandeur and his
greatness.

At one time, it was in the United States alone that he
held indisputable sway, but, feeling that he had not room
enough even in that wide domain to use all the golden ears
that grow upon his princely estate, he has erected a palace
each year in honor of his greatness, which exceeds in wonder
and fantastic beauty all other palaces and so mystifies the
beholders that they imagine they are gazing upon some of
those enchanted creations of which they have read in the
"Arabian Nights." At this palace he holds a yearly carnival
and, as all people from the highest to the lowest have been fed
from his beneficent bounty, so all classes from the chief execu-
tive to the common laborers of the land have feasted their
wearied eyes — hungry for something new, something unique,
as well as beautiful — upon the magic beauty of this palace of
palaces.

In unbroken stream the people come — from the Atlantic
and Pacific coasts, from the warm gulf and the frozen zones,
from all parts of the greatest republic on earth, which, some
one has said, is "bounded on the north by the aurora borealis,
on the east by the rising sun, on the south by the southern
cross and on the west by the setting sun." Nor does King
Corn's fame cease here. From across the seas come calls for
pictures of the famous castle. To Europeans and people of
other nations who had only the meager variety of white bread
for the rich and brown bread for the peasants, the use of corn
for food is of especial inportance. They have learned, too,

IOWA LEAVES. 375

something of artistic designs. Even Paris, that city rich in
original fancies and artistic decorations at her last exposition,
copied the design of a corn palace, which is a purely western
product.

The site of this temple of agriculture is the best that
could possibly be found for it in all the world. It is near the
land of the Dakotas, which Longfellow has made famous in
his sweet poem, "Song of Hiawatha."

In the land of the Ojibways,
In the pleasant land and peaceful
Sing the mysteries of Mondamim,
Sing the blessings of the corn-fields.

It is situated in the western part of that state which leads
all others in the production of corn, Iowa. It is in its beauty
on the banks of that muddy river which gathers its waters
from the snow-clad heights of the Rockies and grows from a
laughing rivulet to a slowly-moving stream, the Missouri.
And last, but not least, it is located in that city, the people of
which "have a way of their own" and the inhabitants never
grow to be old fogies.

In 1888 President and Mrs. Cleveland pronounced the
corn palace the only new thing the}' had seen in their trip
through the eastern and western states. The eloquent orator,
Chauncey Depew, grew enthusiastic over it. But the glory of
that palace is as faint as the shadow of a dream compared to
the gorgeousness of the palace of 1890. When the idea of the
fourth corn palace was first suggested it was'scouted by a great
many people who supposed they were astute thinkers. Their
objections were many; some as follows: "You can get nothing
new." "The fundamental idea has been exhausted." "The peo-
ple must be tired of it." But these were all overcome. A new

S7(j IOWA LEAVES.

architect was engaged, an entirely new design was selected,
twice as large as any of the previous buildings. Then was
raised the objection that it could never be filled and decorated,
but it became a puzzle to economize room so as to have enough
for the applications which came pouring in for space, and in
spite of its vast dimensions the artists found no difficulty in
decorating the building.

While the completed corn palace embodied an original
idea of satisfying and comprehensive significance, it is not to be
understood that there w^as at the start definite and complete
consciousness of the idea. It rather grew with the making of
the corn palace. The decorative possibilities of the corn plant
and of the other products of the Sioux City corn-field, far from
being understood at the outset, were not even dreamed of.

The working out of the details of the corn palace itself,
the discovery of the artistic possibilities of the corn plant and
the sudden inspiration which was born of such discover}', were
things which came later, came in the work of building. An
Aphrodite sprang from the ocean's foam; so when the effort was
once begun to represent the beneficence of the typical product
of the northwestern field dawned the realization of its artistic
resourc -s.

An abundant harvest was ripening in the royal domain,
when some one in Sioux City suggested the idea of the holding
of a harvest festival and corn jubilee in honor and recognition
of the bounteous gift. That hint, vague and undefined as it
was, sufficed to stir the spirit of enterprise in Sioux City breasts.
It was the virile germ of a grand event. Then followed a'
more deliberate and practical consideration of the scheme. A
committee of Sioux City business men was designated to take
the matter in charge and effect an operative organizatino.

IOWA LEAVES. 377

When a committee is appointed in Sioux City, it may be
remarked, a foregone conclusion is that somethins: is oroinof to
be done. Such an appointment, even by an informal body like
the early festival meetings, is not a mere honorary distinction
to be treated lightly or ignorantly altogether by the ap-
pointee. It is a business transaction and exact duty is re-
quired of all. This fact is alluded to as a characteristic of
Sioux City.

Another distinguishing trait of the citizens of Sioux City is
the merging of the individual into the municipal whole when
credit or profit is accorded b}' the public. In the present
instance the distinction of originating the corn palace is accorded
to "the people."

Before undertaking a description of the decorations, with-
out which the palace would have been an ungainly pile of
rough materials, an idea of the magnitude of the labor and
wealth expended thereon is imparted by giving some of the
builder^s estimates. There were 400,000 feet of lumber con-
sumed, 15,000 bushels of yellow corn and 5,000 bushels of
variegated varieties, 500 pounds of carpet tacks, 3,000 pounds
of nails, 1,500 pounds of small brads, 2,500 feet of rope, 500
pounds of small wire and 3,500 yards of cloth. It took forty-
six men six weeks to erect the palace and nearly 300 men and
women to place the decorations in form. Ten teams were
employed ten weeks in hauling the corn and grain. Two steam
saws were engaged constantly eight days cutting corn ears into
small pieces for decorative signs and ornamental work. Besides
this labor is all that was done by farmers in delivering grains
from their own stocks. The total cost of the palace, not includ-
ino- a vast amount of labor and material gratuitously con-
tributed, was about $30,000.

378

IOWA LEAVES.

About twenty counties of northwestern Iowa, South
Dakota and Nebraska have exhibits. The states of Louisiana,
Mississippi and Tennessee have splendid showings of their

SIOUX city's corn palace.

products, which are in striking contrast to those of the
northwest.

The corn palace of 1890 fronts on Sixth street and west on
Pierce street. Each front is 250 feet in length and the south-

IOWA LEAVES. 379 "

west corner is cut to a face sixty feet wide. The building is
merely a frame inclosed with boards, but has been made tight
to turn rain and protect visitors in any weather. It has the
appearance of a square from the outside, but the interior is
finished in the form of an octagon.

The main wall is fort3'-two feet high and from it. the roof
rises in a pyramid, the apex of which — ii6 feet above the
ground — is truncated and upon which is placed a globe forty-
five feet in diameter. This globe is really the base of the cen-
tral tower and over it, as another part of the tower, is placed a
framework which forms an immense crown. The crown is
supposed to be that of King Corn. Its height above the
ground is 196 feet. Just beneath it is the globe, every geo-
graphical feature being wrought out in various colors of corn.
The sections of corn sawed lengthwise are nailed on. Thus the
oceans are represented as a dark expanse by sections of blue
squaw corn, which, viewed from the street, seem a solid mass.

The continents stand out in bright yellow and the lake and
other prominent features are made distinct.

These decorations will suggest somewhat the methods
followed in adorning the exterior. The architect has so
designed the building that the towers, turrets, gables and other
elevations rising above the walls and projecting outward present
ample and varied fields for the artist's ingenuity. Corn is the
main material, but all the grasses and grains are also used.
The interior is decorated with even greater skill. A galler}^
projects from the walls to a distance of twenty-six feet and a
height of twenty feet above the ground floor. The diameter of
the interior, measuring from face to face of the gallery, is no
feet. Eight great pillars sustain the roof and over this central
space are thrown trusses which support the dome. The whole

380 IOWA LEAVES.

interior is decorated with the products of the soil. A pretty
effect is produced by entwining the pillars with great wreaths
of evergreens and grains.

The ceiling is covered with oats, heads down, and millet
and flax. Everywhere are designs wrought out in these mate-
rials. One of the most striking features of the decorations
this year is the working out of pictures in grains. A frame is
first made and crossed with cloth, upon which the sketch is
made in crayon. The outlines are then filled in with suitable
materials and the result is a picture of astonishing effects of
color. One of these pictures represents a tally-ho coach party.
The white horses are represented by hulled millet ; the dark
by flax and turnip seed. The tails and manes are made of
corn silk and the harness is made of husks. The various parts ,
of the coach are made of grains of corn of various colors, the
main body of a dark mahogany color and the windows of
husks. Similar materials are employed to represent the driver
and the figures on top of the coach, every detail being brought
out with surprising accuracy. There are scores of similarly-
wrought pictures, landscapes, groups, marines, etc. One feature
is a cascade; it is a sheet of water fifteen feet wide, having the
appearance of flowing through a gorge and terminates in a fall
of thirty feet, breaking at last in silvery spray and collecting
below in snowy flecks of foam, forming at the foot of the
cataract a large lake, in which is mirrored in tenfold loveliness
all the enchanting scene. Twinkling in its lucid depth will
gleam the reflections of thousands of incandescent and arc
lights. For group above group, to the very edge of the
cataract, will glow these starry lights, giving to the falling
waters and golden mists a brilliant sheen which will dazzle
the mind with its bewildering beauty. The light of the sun

IOWA LEAVES. 381

will never strike you here, but far above all this gleams star-
shaped lights that will add much to the unparalleled splendor.
When the eye grows sated Vv'ith all this grandeur, there opens
to the pleasure-seeker cool caves, as natural and secluded as
though far from the haunts of men, and grottoes so real that
almost instinctively you will look for the fairy wood-nymph
that reigns in that sequestered spot; do not be startled if
she should really appear in all her nymphean etherealism and
minister to you. On every side are seen the cereals. Corn
predominates, but the smaller grains also enter largely into the
decorations. On the outside the ear is mostly used, cut both
lengthwise and crosswise, and here the designs require some-
thing more minute and the kernel is more extensively used.
These are arranged in geometrical and artistic designs, which
at a distance rival in their irridescent splendor the finest of the
ancient mosaics.

The man}' colors of the cereals permit an endless variety
of design which will astonish those uninitiated in the mysteries
of the decorative art. Tapesteries and festoons that delight
the eye seem all too magnificent to be composed of so seem-
ingly common materials. The various exhibits are a revelation
to many. We learn in geography that Iowa and the surround-
ing states produce corn, wheat, oats, etc., but you can have no
conception of the great value of these products and the wealth
that they represent till you see them in the multitudinous forms
which are here presented. South Dakota has an exhibit which
conveys to the hitherto incredulous ones a true idea of the
vast resources and possibilities of the Dakotas. Three of the
largest railroads in Sioux City have excellent exhibits of the
products all along their lines and when a wealthy corpora-
tion* attempts such an exhibition there can be no possible

382 IOWA LEAVES.

question but that there will be something worth seeing. The
main room glows as with living light, the walls blossom with
fairy forms, seemingly endowed with life, so vivid is the
imagery, so lifelike the tints. You have seen flowers spring to
bloom before you and you have seen the crowded gallery sup-
ported by its graceful columns and festooned in myriads of
garlands that reflect the light in mellow rays of softest

radiance.

You may, perchance, turn to go, thinking you have

exhausted the wonders of the veritable fairy land, but you

have not ascended to the dome from which the radiant scene

looks still more lovely. And, hark! as you turn strains of

more than earthly sweetness are wafted on the perfume-laden

air, and, listening, the music swells and becomes martial in its

character. No need to ask whence it comes. The throng

already presses toward the auditorium on the east side of the

building. As you value your reputation as a musical critic do

not ask who are the creators of this soul-stirring harmony.

All the traveling, music-loving public know that nothing on

either side of the great ocean could produce such melody other

than the world-renowned Elgin Military band. At an immense

cost the services of this band have been secured, with their

leader. Prof. J. Hecker, who is a native of Nausau, Germany,

and a natural musician. At ten years of age he was first

violinist in the orchestra of his native town and at the age of

fifteen he was director of the same. When about twenty

years of age he went to England. When the Elgin band

secured his services he resigned his position as director of the

Eighty-Second British Parliament, Prince of Wales Volunteers.

This famous band has played in many places and is an especial

favorite with the American people. Among the places which

IOWA LEAVES. 383

the}' have visited are the corn palace of 1888, the mineral palace
at Pueblo, the Milwaukee exposition and the spring palace at
Ft. Worth. At the last-named place they had the mis-
fortune to have their instruments burned, but at an expense of
$15,000 they have all been replaced by new ones whose tones
harmonize even more perfectly than the old ones. With its
already well-earned fame, its permanent membership and a
leader who is a social as well as a musical success and who
has demonstrated his ability to direct so perfectly this organiza-
tion, this band cannot fail to fulfill all its bright promises for
the future. Its repertoire now consists of more than 6,000
pieces, including those from such classical composers as Liszt,
Wagner, Strauss, Mendelssohn, Beethoven and Handel. While
the connoisseurs delight in the rendition of such famous
selections, they do not forget the more simple melodies which
are so dear to every true American citizen and the soldiers are
again inspired by the thrilling strains of the national hymn and
even "Yankee Doodle" will probably not be forgotten. Two
grand concerts are given each day and they consist not alone
of concert pieces by the band but also comprise solos on the
cornet, clarionet, trombone, violoncello, flute and piccolo,
sprinkled with duets, quartettes and vocal numbers. Other
entertainments have been provided that call forth the full
admiration of the multitudes, from the almond-eyed oriental of
the east to the typical representative of the west.

While within all is intricate beauty, the outside of the
palace will be no less charming. Although the structure is so
large, the covering of cereals gives it an appearance of fairy-
like airiness. Above the wide-arched entrance at the corner
of Pearl and Sixth streets rises the central dome, which proudly
bears the stars and stripes, its silken sheen gleaming 175 feet

3.S4 IOWA LEAVES.

above the earth. On the sides facing Pierce and Sixth streets
are four domes each; these unfurl other starry banners and
turrets and towers innumerable, fanciful and fantastic, rise in
graceful loveliness. From tower to tower, from dome to dome
and turret to turret hang great festoons of the grasses and
cereals of the northwest. Outside the palace the entertain-
ments are sumptueous and grand. The feature of the great
festival is the grand street pageant, the glittering magnificence
of which rivals the far-famed Mardi gras of New Orleans
and the tropical luxuriance of the Carnival-de-Venice will pale
before its unique and dazzling novelties. The same artist,
Francois Dubois, who is engaged to create the designs for the
next year's Mardi gras, has been secured to arrange the parade
for Sioux City, and it was with the greatest difficulty; but
" Sioux City has a way of its own" and that way is ever crowned
with success and knows not the meaning of the word fail.
There were 200 in chariots and on horses; all the costumes were
the creation of this artist for this especial occasion. The
papier mache work was made abroad and shipped to Sioux City
in sections; it was put together here by scenic artists, who also
arranged the floats and other paraphernalia. The reader may
think that all this must have cost something; yes, it did. The
waterfall alone, with its large sewers to carry off the surplus
water has cost an immense amount, while the Elgin band is the
most expensive that could be obtained. Hundreds and hundreds
of decorations have been employed ; the street pageant itself has
consumed a private fortune; but Sioux City never stops for
expense and guests are not wanting. Special trains were
ordered in Boston and other eastern cities for the purpose of
visiting the eighth wonder of the world and many temporay
hotels were reared for the accommodation of the masses.

a IOWA LEAVES. 385

With thirty miles of street railway, electric, cable and
elevated, Sioux City has facilities to convey her guests to any
part of the city; with her seventeen miles of paved streets and
her many miles of shady avenues and the elegant turn-outs
provided by the numerous liveries, she offers special induce-
ments to while away the leisure hours in viewing the city from
all the surrounding heights.

The manufacturing suburbs of Leeds, North Riverside and
Lynn offer many advantages to those wishing to invest in
either real estate or manufacturing interests. At the largest
jobbing point in Iowa traders can see what business means.

The forty churches of Sioux City gladly welcome all
strangers to worship with them on the Sabbath. As the fourth
packing center of the United States she can entertain all inter-
ested in that branch of industry.

With her sixty-seven manufacturing establishments, one
will not be at a loss to find places to visit of some interest.

In the pavilion at the end of the cable line are given
nightly entertainments, while the Peavy Grand is the finest
opera-house between Chicago and Ogden.

The buildings of Sioux City, both public and private, are
fine structures always kept in perfect repair. Eight great high-
ways pass through this lively center, making in all sixteen
approaches to the city. All these roads give reduced rates dur-
ing the corn palace festival, thus giving unexcelled opportunities
to visit the great northwest.

All who visit Sioux City are treated with a courtesy before
unknown and will experience a pleasure trip to be remembered
for a lifetime and will learn of things which their wildest fancy
never imagines. The "Grand Characteristic Parade," repre-
senting Sioux City in 1854, proved a splendid ovation. No

386 IOWA LEAVES.

such concourse of people was ever before seen in the northwest.
A more entertaining and significant presentment of historic fact
would have been difficult to devise and both to surviving
pioneers of the northwest, whose memories retain the experi-
ence of primitive life, and to the younger generation and visitors
from the east, to whom the hardships of earl}' western days
were known only by tradition, the opening display was per-
haps the most interesting one shown during the festival.

This parade moved at lo o'clock a.m. Tuesday, October
4, a platoon of police clearing the way and after them a band
of musicians; then came a band of Indians from the reserva-
tion— Omahas, Sioux and Winnebagos — numbering 250.
Seventy-five of the Indians were mounted, being in full war
paint and feathers and clad with the skins of wild animals,
bright-colored prints and gaud}^ clothes, uttering supposed war-
whoops and brandishing weapons as they moved along. There
lacked nothing to paint the picture which in 1854 was one of
terror to the adventurous settlers of the northwest. At some
distance behind the troop of mounted warriors, which went
through all the evolutions of Indian warfare, charging with
piercing whoops, breaking in disorder, reforming with the pre-
cision of regular cavalr}^, there followed the remainder of the
band in motley vehicles and equipages, which are only to be
seen on an Indian reservation. The squaws and papooses were
decked out in the gaudiest of savage fancy and they gazed at
the sights at every hand in wonderment equal to that with
which they were themselves regarded by the multitude.

As the Indian band sped on and passed out of view there
came, most appropriately in the realistic panorama, the signs of
advancing civilization — the representatives of the vanguard of
the mighty army which drove out the red man and made his

IOWA LEAVES. 387

hunting-ground a corn-field. The pack train followed hard upon
the heels of the retreating Indians, six ponies bearing a burden
of furs and other frontier spoil bound for the trading post.
They, like the other figures in this peculiar drama, were genuine.
At their side was George Tackett, an experienced trapper in
those wild days, who speaks the language of the native. He
was clad in buckskin garb with rifle slung for instant use and
looked like the frontier man he used to be. If the pencil of
a Stanle}' could have caught him then historic art would have
been enriched. Next came the stage coach with Tom Parott,
the second oldest stage driver in the northwest, on the box.
The stage contained express messengers duly armed and a
"friendly" Indian.

The emigrant train of the '50s followed next. There
was the spectacle of the old-time prairie schooners drawn by
oxen and filled with the characteristic household effects, the
working tools and scant possessions of the pioneer. Behind
some wagons the never-failing feed box was hung on and over
it the spinning-wheel and venerable splint-bottomed chairs. In
rear of others the family cow was led; the rear of another
held a crate in which were ducks and chickens; one wagon had
lost a hind wheel and came trailing along alone on a pole.
The travel-stained canvas bore legends copied from literal
inscriptions remembered by the early comers.

The next picture was especially realistic — a freight train
bound for the Black Hills camp. It was no illusion, for the
immense vans had seen actual service. Three vans, lashed
together in true frontier style piled full of freight, were drawn
by six-mule teams, the driver guiding them with a single line
and the bells upon their harness jingling merrily as they moved
along. It was a true survivor of old-time prairie life.

388 IOWA LEAVES.

It would require an immense amount of space to describe
particularly the floats and various other representations of
pioneer days which made up the first day's parade. What has
been said will suffice as a suggestion of the comprehensiveness
and accuracy of this particular display and also of the other
parades during the festival.

The industrial parade, military parade, consolidated
review, Grand Lodge of Iowa Masons, etc., were all line and
the visit of a party of eminent railroad men was an important
event in the history of the corn palace city and northwest
Iowa. Cornelius Vanderbilt, Mr. Ferris, Albert Keep, Chauncey
M. Depew, Marvin Hughit, J. M. Whitman, Mr. Webb of the
Wagner Car Company, Vice-President Sykes of the North-
western system, Mr. DeCosta of the Lake Shore road and Mr.
Fitch of the Sioux City & Pacific road were traveling by
special train over the lines in which they were interested and
signified a desire to visit the corn palace. Although the expo-
sition had just closed, the city authorities and a number of
Sioux City business men received the party in an informal
manner and conducted the distinguished party through the pal-
ace, still undisturbed in decorations and exhibits. The visitors,
expressed hearty appreciation of the evidence of the prosperity
of this region. Mr. Depew was called on to address the com-
pany and spoke in his eloquent and felicitous style.

President and Mrs. Cleveland visited the corn palace of
1888, accompanied by Mr. and Mrs. Postmaster-General Vilas,
Judge Wilson Bissel, Col. Lamont and others.

Mr. Cleveland expressed surprise at the quality of the corn
grown in northwest Iowa and remarked that it certainly must
be a rich country. He asked many questions relative to the
productiveness and resources of the northwest. His curiosity

JOWA LEAVES. 389

was aroused by specimens of parti colored "squaw corn" and he
said: "With your permission I will take one of these," putting
an ear of the corn in his pocket. Mrs. Cleveland was the
recipient of numerous bouquets and other souvenirs of the palace.

The visit of the President's party at that time, under the
circumstances, was a fair illustration of the interest which was
excited throughout the country in the great festival. The lead-
ing papers of all the large cities sent special correspondents,
who daily telegraphed elaborate reports of its features and
progress. The leading pictorial papers, like Harper'^s Weekly
and Frank Leslie's in this country, and even the London
Graphic and Illustrated News., published copious illustrations
and gave extended accounts.

The success of the Sioux City corn palace of 1890 was so
signal and the impression made by it upon the public mind so
deep and abiding that it has become a permanent and distinctive
Sioux City enterprise. Sioux City will be the scene of an
annual hai-vest; local aspirations answering to the earnest
demand of the northwest involved this result, the interest of
which, running far beyond the limits of the upper Missouri val-
ley enlists attention which may almost be described as national
in extent.

The success of the corn palace of 1891 is more than
assured. It is certified by the eminent success of the corn
palace of 1890. In the agricultural domain of the upper Mis-
souri valley there has been seasons of prosperity. Seedtime
and harvest never fail in the unrivaled corn region of north-
west Iowa, which rejoices the heart and moves to celebration.
To such a prospect Sioux City extends a cordial invitation to
the world and to the million visitors who will gaze upon the
corn palace of 1891 assurance of their fullest satisfaction.

390 IOWA LEAVES.

A SYMPHONY IN CEREALS.

AN ATTORNEY'S DESCRIPTION OF THE CORN PALACE AND

ITS BEAUTIES.

In the Farmers'" Institute, published at Mason City, appears
the following from Sioux City, being a novel and interesting
description of the corn palace, written by J. H. Quick of
this city:

The corn palace is now in process of construction. Again the architect's
brain has evolved the plan, again the great piles of lumber are seen on the ground,
and again hammer and saw are heard articulating the skeleton of the corn marvel.
This time the palace will look like a bit of scenery from the banks of the Bosphorus,
for the design is that of a great Turkish mosque, and from its slender minarets and
towering dome one might almost expect to hear the voice of the muezzin calling all
true believers to prayer. But it is dedicated to the prophet of agriculture and not to
the prophet of Islam; to Mondamin, not Mohammed.

By the time this reaches your readers the work will be well under way. A
great mosque, elegant in form, broad, lofty and in every way spacious in dimensions,
is built of — what? Simply rough lumber! It is an architectural anomaly.

Shut your eyes and enter and from the evidence of your nostrils you will
imagine yourself in some great barn filled with fragrant hay and new-garnered grain.
Trust your ears and you will imagine it a workshop from the constant tapping of
innumerable hammers and buzzmg of saws. Open your eyes and you exclaim,
"It is fairyland!"

In place of the piles of lumber are such quantities of heterogeneous truck
that it seems a dozen agricultural fair exhibits reduced to chaos. Piles of cornstalks
and of corn in the ear in different-colored lots — in one pile red ears, in another
yellow, in another white, or blue or "calico" corn, or pop-corn — are daily deposited on
the grounds. Here come stacks of sorghum and wheat and barley and rye. Quanti-
ties of millet and other marsh grass appear. Every kind of grass or cereal is brought
here from all the surrounding country and the wonderful task begins.

Over yonder is a little buzz-saw run by an electric motor. It has a hopper like
a corn-sheller and a man feeds it with ears of corn. They come out neatly split in
the middle, just as a long cucumber might be sliced in two with a knife. Near him
is another man at a machine similar to those which grocers use for cutting plug
tobacco. He is cutting off transverse sections of ears of corn in cylindrical blocks of
uniform length. These slabs and blocks play an important part in rendering
beautiful this temple of Ceres.

You think some of the patterns done in cut shingles on Queen Anne cottages
nowadays pretty, don't you? Yet on the corn palace they are put to shame by

IOWA LEAVES. 391

designs in blocks and slabs of corn on a backing of pine. A man nails on four half
ears side by side, with their flat side to the wall, and they make a square. These
run up and down. Run the next square horizontally and you have another square of
different appearance. Cover a large space with these alternating squares or dia-
monds and a curious imbricated appearance is given which is wonderfully beautiful
even when done in only one color. But imagine the gorgeous effect when all the
colors found in corn are used by people who are the greatest masters of such deco-
rative art in the world.

Diverge these slabs of corn from a common center and you have a star, and
nothing but the figures in a kaleidoscope can vie with the designs here found in
either number or beauty. Still more striking effects are produced by the use of the
cylindrical blocks. Each block end shows the white cob with a ring of red or blue or
yellow around it. You see at a glance how this form lends itself to decorative purposes-

You look at a column and you think it is marble at the top gradually shading
down to deepest carnelian at the bottom. Yet it is nothing but corn. A model of a
beautiful boat-house is worked out in every particular.

Flags in red, white and blue, a ten-inch cannon, yellow as brass outside and
blue as steel within; here you think surely some other substance has been used.
Step closer and you will see that the brass and steel are made by fitting kernels of
corn closely together and fastening each kernel in place with a tack. There are rich
brown spaces covered with flax showing the balls. Others are bright green— these
are cane. The rays of yellow light shooting out from the sun up there are yellow
cornstalks.

Golden wheat and rye and millet and barley are used in a thousand ways.
Not in geometrical patterns alone. Landscapes of astonishing beauty are done in
natural colors by the fair artists of Sioux City; but instead of oils and water colors
they are hay and corn and grass. And they need nothing else, for their success
is perfect.

All these things have been done in former years, but the palace of 1891
promises to be a surprise to Sioux City people even. It will be 264 by 264 feet in
size, twice as large as last year's palace. Its style will be graceful and beautiful in
the highest degree. Its decorations will exceed anything of its kind ever seen. It
will be filled with exhibits from all over the country. It will have an auditorium
seating 1,200 people. Trained musicians will occupy the stage. Its ventilation will
be perfect, but daylight will be excluded and it will be lighted by thousands of
electric lights.

When the visitor enters he will be struck with wonder. He will look across a
clear space of nearly 100 feet, and on the opposite side, dazzling with incan-
descent lights, he will see a waterfall pouring into a lake, peopled with fish. There
will be fairy grottoes, each one having a special attraction. Away up in the top of
the lofty dome will be an artificial sky studded with electric stars. Strains of sweet
music will mingle with the sound of the falling waters, and around will be arranged
the useful and beautiful treasures of a score of states.

392 IOWA LEAVES.

A QUOTATION.

Oh, I am the king of a grander realm
Than monarch or czar may own.

The forces of nature my vassals are
And the wide, gray earth my throne.

My banners hung on a thousand hills
Their radiant oriflamme;

And the air was thrill with resonant song
Of welcome when I came.

And none but I the miracle knew;

How from the humble seed
The mystic wonder of harvest grew

In answer to human need.

The song of vintage resounds at eve,
And echoes at early morn;

But the sweetest melody of the year
Is heard in the rustling corn.

And I am the mystic warder

That stands at the autumn's gate —

Mondamin, the carnival spirit.
That rules at the palace fete.

And my song is of joy and gladness —
A rune without favor or tear —

The mith but never the sadness
That comes with the waning year.

For I am the king of a grander realm
Than monarch or czar may own.

The forces of nature my vassals are
And the wide, gray earth my throne.

PART SIXTH

EARLY REMINISCENCES

OF NORTHEAST AND CENTRAL IOWA, AND DESCRIP-
TION OF THE CAPITAL CITY.

GEN. GEO. W. JONES.

PIONEER OF NORTHEASTERN IOWA.

Gen. Geo. W. Jones of Dubuque, Iowa, was born at Vin-
cennes, Ind., on April 12, 1804, and came with his parents,
Hon. John R. and Mary Jones, to Kaskaskia, 111., in 1805, ^^^
from there went to St. Genevieve, Mo., in 1808, and to New
Diggings, Potosi, Mo., in 18 14.

His father framed the first con-
stitution of Missouri and was
justice of the supreme court of
that state until he died at St.
Louis on February i, 1824. He
also served as an officer under
Col. Geo. R. Clark, at the capt-
ure of Vincennes and Kaskaskia
in 1779. Those were dark days
^:;Mj^^r^^. indeed in the history of the infant
■ />/ settlements of the g^reat north-
west, in consequence of the many
outrages practiced by the Indians.
Gen. Jones attended school at St.
Genevieve, Potosi and St. Louis,
graduating at Transylvania university in Lexington, Ky., on
July 13, 1825.

He was sergeant of the body-guard of Gen. Andrew Jack,
son, as that very distinguished hero and statesman passed

395

fit

Gen. Geo. W. Jones.

396 IOWA LEAVES.

through Kentucky and Lexington to take his seat in the senate
of the United States in November, 1823. He also served in the
same capacity to the Marquis de La Fayette at Lexington in
May following. He was drummer boy in the company com-
manded by Capt. Wm. Sinn at St. Genevieve, Mo., in the
fall of 1 8 14. He was clerk of the district court of the United
States at St. Genevieve, Mo., from 1825 to 1827. He was aid-
de-camp to Gen. Henry Dodge in the Black Hawk war, and
was colonel, general and judge in Iowa county. Wis., twice
sergeant-general and three times elected delegate to congress,
and was Iowa's first United States senator and minister to
Bogota, South America.

Gen. Jones has been a long and favored resident of Iowa
his home having been in Dubuque since about 1839. He is
now in his eighty-fourth year, hale and heartv, and the inter-
esting facts which he can relate in regard to the early settling
of Iowa would fill a large volume.

CHAPTER I.

For many years it had been the poHcy of the government
to obtain a reHnqiiishment of the title of the Indians to all
lands within the limits of the states and as rapidly as possible
cause the removal of the tribes to territories beyond the Mis-
sissippi. In 1830 the Chickasaws and Choctaws, occupying
portions of the states of Alabama and Mississippi, agreed to
remove and in due time carried out their agfreement in orood
faith. The same year a treaty was made with the Sacs and
Foxes by which they agreed to cede their lands to the United
States and remove beyond the Mississippi. The principal
village of these united tribes was located at the mouth of Rock
river, on the east side of the Mississippi, near where the cit}^
of Rock Island now stands. Here had been an Indian village,
according to tradition, for 150 years. These tribes had owned
and occupied the country bordering on the Mississippi to an
extent of 700 miles, from the mouth of the Wisconsin almost
to the mouth of the Missouri. The Indians did not seem dis-
posed to comply promptly with the terms of the treaty and
. one band, under the noted chief Black Hawk (Ma-ka-tai-me-she-
kai-kiak), evinced a determination to keep possession of their
old village. John Reynolds, governor of Illinois, construed
their continued residence in the ceded territory as an invasion
of the state and under his authority, to protect the state from
invasion, ordered out 700 militia to force their removal, accord-
ing to the treaty. This interference of the governor of
Illinois with the duties belonging to the federal government,

397

398 IOWA LEAVES.

obliged the commander of United States troops in that quarter
to co-operate with him in order to prevent a colHsion between
the state mihtia and the Indians. Ft. Armstrong, on Rock
Island, had been established as early as 1816 and when the
Black Hawk trouble commenced was in command of Gen.
Atkinson. The Indians were overawed by this imposing
military force and, yielding to necessity, crossed the Mississippi.
Black Hawk, feeling exasperated at the harsh treatment his
people had received, resolved to prosecute a predatory war
against the white settlements. He united his band of Sacs and
Foxes wnth the Winnebagoes under the command of the
prophet Wabo-ki-e-sheik (White Cloud) and in March, 1832,
recrossed to the east side of the Mississippi. They murdered
a number of defenseless families and committed many outrages
upon the settlers. The whole frontier became alarmed and
many of the settlers fled for safety. The governor of Illinois
ordered out the state militia, which, being joined by 400 regular
troops, constituted a force of about 1,000, under the command
of Gen. Atkinson. They pursued the Indians and after a cam-
paign of about two months, during which two engagements
were fought, the war was brought to an end. The last and the
decisive battle of the war is known in history as the battle of
Bad Axe, being fought on a small tributary of the Wisconsin
of that name. This battle took place August 2, 1832, and the
force against Black Hawk was commanded by Gen. Henry
Dodge of Wisconsin. The Indians lost forty of their braves
and Gen. Dodge one. The Indians made but little further
resistance and Black Hawk's "British band," as it was styled,
became demoralized and fled. They reached the Mississippi
and were making preparations for crossing when they were
checked by the captain of the steamboat Warrior, who dis-

IOWA LEAVES. 399

charged a six-pounder at them, although they had displayed a
flag of truce. The next morning Gen. Atkinson arrived with
his army and made an attack which the Indians were now
powerless to resist. Black Hawk escaped, but was taken by
some treacherous Winnebagoes and delivered along with the
prophet on August 27 to Gen. Street at Prairie du Chien.
Two of Black Hawk's sons, the prophet and other leaders
were also taken and by order of the government were
conve3'ed through the principal cities and towns on the seaboard
in order that they might be impressed with the greatness and
power of the United States.

For some time Black Hawk was held as captive and
then, through the intercession of Keokuk, who had been opposed
to the war and had not participated in the hostilities, he was
allowed to return to Rock Island, and permitted to join his
people. Treaties were made with the offending tribes, by
which they agreed to compensate for the expense of the war
by ceding a valuable part of their territory on the west side of
the Mississippi, and to remove immediately from the east side.
The United States stipulated to pay to these tribes annually
$30,000 for twenty-seven years, and also to make other pro-
visions for them. By this treaty the United States acquired
the tirst territory in Iowa which was opened to settlement. It
is what is known as the "Black Hawk Purchase" and em-
braced a strip of territory extending from the northern bound-
ary of Missouri to the north of the upper Iowa river, about
flfty miles in width, and embracing an area of about 6,000,000
acres. This treaty was made on September 21, 1832,
at a council held on the west bank of the Mississippi
river, where the city of Davenport now stands, in northeast
Iowa. Gen. Winfield Scott and Gov. John Reynolds of Illinois

\
400 IOWA LEAVES.

represented the United States, and on the part of the Indians
there were present Keokuk, Pashepaho, and about thirty other
chiefs and warriors of the Sac and Fox nation. Within the
Hmits of this purchase was reserved a tract of 400 square
miles, situated on the Iowa river and including Keokuk's
village. This tract was known as " Keokuk's Reserve," and
was occupied by the Indians until 1836, when it was ceded to
the United States. This treaty was negotiated by Gov.
Henry Dodge of Wisconsin territory, and on the part of the
Indians Keokuk was the leading spirit. This council was also
held on the banks of the Mississippi, near the site of the present
cit}^ of Davenport. The treaty stipulated for the removal of
the Indians to another reservation on the Des jNIoines river.
On this an agency was established where -the present town of
Agency City in Wapello county is located. Out of the "Black
Hawk Purchase " was conveyed to Antoine Le Claire, an inter-
preter, whose wife was an Indian, one section of land opposite
Rock Island and another at the head of the lirst rapids above
the island.

Julien Dubuque, a Frenchman by birth, had the honor of
making the fii'st white settlement in northeastern Iowa. In
1 788, having obtained permission from the Indians, he crossed
the Mississippi with a small party of miners for the purpose of
working lead mines at the place where is now located the city
which bears his name, the lead having been discovered a short
time before by the wife of Peosta, a Fox warrior. Dubuque
was a native of France and as a trader he acquired great
influence with the Sac and Fox chiefs. Dubuque, as was a
common custom among the French traders, had married an
Indian woman. He gave to the district embraced in this grant
the name of the mines of Spain, in 1796, in compliment

IOWA LEAVES. 401

to the Spanish governor. He remained in mining until his
death, which occurred March 24, 18 10. He was buried on
a bluff near the present city and at his grave was placed a
cedar cross, hewn square and about twelve feet high. A num-
ber of Indians were afterward buried at the same place and
among them the chief Kettle and his wife, who both died some
eighteen years after Dubuque.

One of the most exciting incidents connected with the early
history of Davenport and northeast Iowa was the murder of CoL
George Davenport on Rock Island, July 4, 1845. The country
on both sides of the river had been infested by a lawless band
of freebooters, with their supposed headquarters at Nauvoo.
They had organized themselves into bands and engaged in horse
stealing, counterfeiting, burglary, robbery and murder. In some
places men in official positions and of good standing in the
community were associated with them. On the fatal July 4
Col. Davenport's family were away at Stephenson attending a
celebration, when three men attacked him in his house, one
of whom shot him with a pistol through the thigh. The}' then
bound him with strips of bark, blindfolded him and made
a search for the key of his safe, but were unable to find
it. Returning to the wounded man they carried him upstairs
where the safe was and compelled him to unlock it. The booty
obtained was about $600 in money, a gold watch chain and
seals, a double-barrelled gun and a few articles of minor
value. Col. Davenport lived long enough to relate the incidents
of the robbery. For several weeks no trace could be found of
the murderers. Edward Bonney of Lee county, Iowa, under-
took to ferret out their place of concealment. About the middle
of Aug-ust he went to Nauvoo where he obtained trace of them
by representing himself as one of the gang. On Septem-

402 IOWA LEAVES.

ber 8 he arrested a man named Fox at Centreville, Iowa,
and committed him to jail there. On the 19th he arrested two
others, Birch and John Long, at Sandusky, Ohio, and brought
them to Rock Island by way of the lakes and Chicago. These
three men were known in the west as leaders of gangs of des-
peradoes, but operated under different names. Three others
were also arrested as accessories, Richard Baxter and Aaron
Long, near Galena, III., and Granville Young at Nauvoo.
Aaron was a brother of John Long. On October 6 all of
them were indicted by the grand jury of Rock Island county,
except Fox, who had escaped from jail in Indiana on Sep-
tember 17. On October 14 the two Longs were put upon
trial, found guilty and sentenced to be hanged on the 27th of the
same month. Birch, the greatest villain, turned state's evi-
dence. Baxter was tried separately, convicted and sentenced to
be hanged on November 18. John Long confessed all, but died a
hardened wretch, without sign of repentance or fear of death.
Col. George Davenport resided near the post; he supplied
the troops with provisions and was also engaged in trading with
the Indians. Most of his goods were brought from Mackinaw
through Green Bay, thence up to Fox river to the "portage,"
where they were packed across to the Wisconsin river and
carried down the Mississippi in what were called Mackinaw
boats. The navigation of the upper Mississippi was confined
to keel boats until 1823, when the first steamboat, the Vir-
ginia from Wheeling, ascended with provisions to Prairie du
Chien. This boat was four days in passing the rapids at Rock
Island. After this, up to 1827, steamboats continued to ascend
the upper Mississippi occasionally with troops and military
stores. In this year Capt. James Ma}', of the steamboat Sham-
rock, made the first voyage with her from Pittsburg to Galena.

IOWA LEAVES. 403

This was the first general business trip ever made on the upper
Mississippi by a steamboat. Capt. May continued as master of
a steamboat on this part of the river until 1834.

In May, 1854, the first railroad was built in Iowa at or near
high-water mark on the bank of the Mississippi in the city of
Davenport, and was completed to Iowa City, a distance of about
fifty-five miles, in Johnson county. The first locomotive in Iowa
was landed at Davenport in July of the same year and was
called the Antoine Le Claire. The road was then called the
Mississippi & Missouri railroad. On January i, 1891, there
were in Iowa over 30,000 miles of railroad.

ON TO IOWA.

"Trains of wagons crept the long road over — "
" For Iowa " painted on each dusty cover;
Scores of children, black-headed, red and white,
The latter oftenest coming into sight,
Looking from the wagons — a mixed-up mass —
To see the country as they slowly pass.
The wagon's rear end held the spinning-wheel;
Oft its companion, too, the winding reel.
But oftener still the rude split-bottomed chair.
With or without rockers, was fastened there.
The travelers were in fitting dress arrayed.
Which by their own industrious hands were made;
Father and sons in brown jean hunting shirts,
The mothers and daughters in linsey skirts;
Each having their allotted part to do,
Driving the teams and gentle cattle too.

Such were the men and such the women were
Who came through trials and vexatious care
To people up this splendid grassy plain
And change it into fields of waving grain.
Hopefully from their forest homes they went.
Where they had toiled for comfort and content;
Working earnestly many a weary day,
Striving to clear the trees and brush away.
Which formed a standing guard above the soil.

404 IOWA LEAVES.

Only to be subdued by hardest toil.

Truly, 'tis seen, that they had chosen well

In concluding that they'd no longer dwell

In places where dame Nature must be wooed

So long and wearily for so little good.

In going forth a better lot to seek

Where this same nature is a kindly freak,

Had neatly cleared the rich and seemly land

And left it waiting for the plowman's hand.

Another favor unto him she'd granted,

In broad, expansive meadows ready planted,

Decked with such flowers, doubt it, you who can.

As surpassed the glory of King Solomon.

The circumstance which, more than any other, favored the
early and rapid settlement of northeast and central Iowa was
the abundance of timber. The presence of timber aided materi-
ally in bringing about an early settlement and it was aided in_
two ways. First, the country in this section had of course
to depend on emigration from the older settled states of the
east for its population, and especially Ohio and Indiana. These
states originally were almost covered with dense forests and
farms were made by clearing off certain portions of the timber.
Almost every farm there, after it became thoroughly improved,,
still retained a certain tract of timber commonly known as "the
woods." The woods is generally regarded as the most impor-
tant part of the farm and the average farmer regarded it as
indispensable. When he emigrated west the greatest objection
to the Iowa country was the scarcity of timber and he did not
suppose that it would be possible to open up a farm on the
bleak prairie. To live in a region devoid of the familiar sight
of timber seemed unendurable and the average Ohio and
Indiana emigrant could not endure the idea of founding a home
far away from the familiar sight of forest trees. Then again,
the idea entertained b}'' the early emigrants to northwest Iowa

IOWA LEAVES. 405

that timber was a necessity was not simply theoretical and
ethical. The early settler had to have a house to live in, fuel
for cooking and heating purposes and fences to inclose his
claim. At that time there were no railroads whereby lumber
could be transported from the prairies. No coal mines had yet
been opened and few, if any, had been discovered. Timber
was an absolute necessity, without which personal existence as
well as material improvement was an impossibility.

As before remarked, there are two reasons why the first
settlers of northeast and central Iowa refused to locate at a
distance from the timber and wh}' the timbered region border-
ing on the Des Moines, Mississippi and Skunk rivers became
densely populated, while the more fertile and more easily cul-
tivated prairies remained for many years unclaimed. The
pioneers were in the main descendants of those hardy back-
woodsmen who conquered the dense forests of Indiana, Ohio
and the regions farther east. When farms were opened up in
those countries a large belt of timber was invariably reserved,
from which the farmer could draw his supply of logs for lumber
and fence rails and fuel for cooking and heating purposes.
Even at the present day a farm without its patch of timber is
exceedingly rare in those countries.

Having from their 3outh been accustomed to timber,
the emigrants from these timbered regions of the east would
have ever felt lonesome and solitary deprived of the familiar
siffht of the tall forest trees and shut off from the familiar
sound of the wind passing through the branches of the vener-
able oaks.

In this day of railroads, herd laws, cheap lumber and cheap
fuel, it is easy enough to open a farm and build up a comfort-
able home away out on the prairies, far from the sight of

406 IOWA LEAVES.

timber. But not so under the circumstances surrounding the
first settlers. There was no way of shipping lumber from the
markets of the east, coal mines were unknown and before a
parcel of land could be cultivated it was necessary to fence it.
In order to settle the prairie countries it was necessary to have
railroads, and in order to have railroads it was necessary that
at least a portion of the country should be settled. Hence the
most important resource in the development of northeast
Iowa was the belts of timber which skirted the streams and
the first settlers who hewed out homes in the timber, while at
present not the most enterprising and progressive, were never-
theless an essential factor in the solution of the problem. From
either side of the Mississippi, Des Moines, Iowa and Skunk
rivers, flowing in a southwestern and southeastern direction, are
a number of small streams or creeks. The uniform width of
the belt of timber along the Des Moines was originally about
five miles wide and where these smaller streams empty into the
river the timber extends much farther out. These places were
called "points" and on these the first settlements were made;
here were the beginnings of civilization; here began to operate
the forces which have made the wilderness a fruitful place and
caused the desert to blossom as the rose.

Much of this primeval forest has been removed ; part of it
was economically manufactured into lumber which entered into
the construction of the early dwelling-houses, many of which
still remain; much of it has been ruthlessly and recklessly
destroyed, consequently attention was early given to the cult-
ure of artificial groves. Among the most abundant of all trees
originally found was the black walnut, so highly prized in all
countries for manufacturing purposes. Timber of this kind
was very plentiful and of good quality, originally, but the

IOWA LEAVES. . 407

high price paid for this kind 'of timber presented itself as a
temptation to destroy it which the people could not resist.
The best timber in the state is found in northeast and central
Iowa. Detached groves, both natural and artificial, are found
at many places throughout these regions, which are not only
ornamental but vary the monotony of the prairie and are like-
wise very useful, having an important bearing on the climate.

DES MOINES, THE METROPOLIS OF IOWA
AND CAPITAL CITY.

Where Des Moines river with unceasing roll

Passes through fertile fields by hidden beds of coal,

Where she receives Raccoon's bright waves upon her breast —

Two of the loveliest streams in all the west —

There lies a spot, with great high-sounding name,

Known well to history and the pride of Iowa fame.

The following interesting facts are taken from a "History
of Polk County, Iowa," published in 1880:

The residence of the various Indian tribes in the vicinity
of Des Moines dates from May i, 1843, at which time, accord-
ing to the stipulation of the treaty of 1842, they removed west
of a line running north and south through the town of Red
Rock in Marion county. As before stated, the government,
according to the provision of the various treaties, paid to the
Indians annually quite a sum of money. The payments w^ere
made in silver coins, put up in boxes containing 500 dollars
each and passed into the hands of Keokuk for distribution.
The several traders received each his quota, according to the
several demands against the tribes admitted by Keokuk, which
invariably consumed the far greater portion of the amount
received; the remainder was turned over to the chief and
distributed among the respective bands. Great complaints

408 - IOWA LEAVES.

were made of these allowances to the traders on the orround
of exorbitant prices charged on the goods actually furnished
and it was alleged that some of these accounts were spurious.
In confirmation of this charge over and above the character of
the items exhibited in these counts an affidavit was filed with
Gov. Lucas (the first governor of Iowa) by an individual to
whom the governor gave credence, setting forth that Keokuk
had proposed to the maker of the affidavit to prefer a fictitious
account against the tribe for the sum of $10,000 and he would
admit its correctness and, when paid, the money should be
divided among themselves, share and share alike. To swell
the trader's bills items were introduced of a character that
should brand fraud upon their face, such as a large number of
blanket coats, articles which the Indians never used, and
telescopes, of the use of which they had no knowledge. This
showed the reckless manner in which these bills were swollen to
the exorbitant amounts complained of, in which Keokuk was
openly charged with being in league with the traders to defraud
the Indians.

The money which actually came into the possession of the
Indians was soon squandered by them and the position of
Indian trader, conferred by appointment, was a very lucrative
one. During the period when the Indians resided in the
vicinity of Des INIoines, from May i, 1843, to October 11, 1845,
there were two firms which were allowed to trade with them.
Phelps & Co. were from Illinois; they were traders in furs and
were permitted to carry on their business with the Indians.
G. W. & W. G. Ewing were the regularly authorized Indian
traders and arrived on May 3, 1843. Their business career
here was eminently successful and they accumulated quite a
little fortune during their three years' harvest. Their place of

IOWA LEAVES. 409

business was on the east side of the river, near where the mas:-
niticent capitol building stands to-day; they erected a log build-
ing not far from Major Beach, the Indian agent, which was
probably the first one erected in Polk county.

At this time the Sacs and Foxes numbered about 2,300
and it is not possible that Keokuk could have carried on an
organized system of theft without the fact becoming apparent
to all. As it was, however, Gov. Lucas thought best to change
the manner in which the annual payments were made. The
matter was referred to the Indian bureau and the mode was
changed so that the payments were made to heads of families.
This method of payment did not suit the traders and after
a short trial the old plan was again adopted. That the Indians,
then as now, were the victims of sharp practice cannot be
doubted, but the fact can be attributed to the superior tact and
the unscrupulous character of many of the traders. This
furnishes a more probable explanation and is more in accord
with the character of Keokuk, as known by his intimate friends
still living, than to attribute these swindling operations to a
conspiracy in which the illustrious chief was the leading actor.

Among the early settlers of Iowa the names of Keokuk
and Wapello are the most noted and familiar. These two illus-
trious chiefs live not only in the recollections of these early
settlers, but in the permanent history of our common countr}-.
To the school-boy who has frequently read of these Indians
the fact that they once roved around on the very ground where
their feet tread, and that in their hunting excursions these In-
dians crossed the same prairies where they now gather the
yellow-eared corn, will give to these sketches intense interest,
while the early settlers who talked with Wapello and Keokuk,
ate with them, hunted with them and fished with them, cannot

410 lO^VA LEAVES.

fail to tind in these leaves something fascinating, as they are
thus led back over half a century to live over again the
days of other years and w^itness again the scenes of early days,
w^hen the tall prairie grass waved in the autumn breeze and
the country, like themselves, was younger and fresher than now.
Keokuk came hrst into prominence among the whites at the
breaking out of the second war with England, commonly known
as the w.^.r of 1812. ]Most of the Indians at that time espoused
the cause of the English, but Keokuk at the head of a large
number of the Sacs and Foxes remained faithful to the Amer-
icans. In 1828, Keokuk, in accordance with the terms of a
treaty, crossed the Mississippi river with his tribe and estab-
lished himself on the Iowa river. Here he remained in peace
and his tribe flourished till the breaking out of the Black Hawk
war in 1832. He seemed to have a much more intelligent in-
sight into the great national questions which were raised dur-
ing these early difficulties as well as more thorough apprecia-
tion of the resources of the national government. He opposed
the Black Hawk war and seemed to forecast the great disaster
which thereby befell his tribe. Although many of his warriors
deserted him and followed Black Hawk in his reckless cam-
paign across the Mississippi, Keokuk prevailed upon a major-
ity of his tribe to remain at home. When the news reached
Keokuk that Black Hawk's warriors had gained a victory over
Stillman's forces in Ogle county, 111., the war spirit broke
out among his followers like fire in the dry prairie grass. A
war dance was held and the chief himself took part in it. He
seemed for a while to move in sympathy with the rising storm,
and at the conclusion of a war dance he called a council to pre-
pare for war. In a work entitled "Annals of Iowa," published
in 1865, there is reported the substance of a speech made by

IOWA LEAVES. 411

Keokuk on the occasion. We quote: ''I am your chief and it
is my duty to lead you to battle. If after fully considering the
matter you are determined to go on the warpath I will lead you
on one condition: that before we go we kill all our old men and
our wives and our children, to save them from a lin2:erino: death
by starvation and that every one of you determine to leave your
bones on the other side of the Mississippi river." This was a
strong and truthful picture of the prospect before them and was
presented in such a forcible light that it caused them to abandon
their rash undertaking.

Keokuk was ever recognized as the head of the Sac and
Fox nation by the United States government.

It is said that a bitter feud existed in the tribe during the
time that Keokuk lived near Des Moines between Keokuk's
band and the Black Hawk band. Their distrust and hatred
were smothered in their common intercourse when sober, but
when their blood was fired with whisky it sometimes assumed a
tragic feature among the leaders of the respective bands.

In person Keokuk was of commanding appearance. He
was tall, straight as an arrow and of very graceful mien. These
personal characteristics together with his native fervor and
ready command of language gave him great power over his
people as a speaker. If as a man of energy and courage he
gained the respect and obedience of his tribe, it was more espe-
cially as an orator that he was able to wield his people in the
times of great excitement and in a measure shape their policy in
dealinof with the white man. As an orator rather than as a
warrior has Keokuk's claim to greatness been founded.

The event in the life of Keokuk which more than any other
gave him a national reputation was his trip to Washington City.
He in company with Black Hawk, Powesheik, Kish-ke-kosh and

412 IOWA LEAVES.

some fifteen other chiefs, under the escort of Gen. J. M. Street,
visited Washington City and different parts of the east in 1837.
The party descended the Mississippi to the mouth of the Ohio
by steamer and thence up the latter to AVheehng, where they
took stage across the mountains. When the party arrived in
Washington, at the request of some of the government officials
a council was held with some chiefs of the Sioux then present,
as the Sacs and Foxes were waging a perpetual war with the
Sioux nation.

The council was held in the hall of representatives. To
the great indignation of the Sioux, Kish-ke-kosh appeared
dressed in a buffalo hide which he had taken in war from a
Sioux chief and took his position in one of the large windows,
with the mane and horns of the buffalo as a sort of head-dress
and the tail trailing on the floor. The Sioux complained
to the officials, claiming that this was an insult to them, but
they were informed that the Sacs and Foxes had a right to
appear in any kind of costume they chose to wear.

The first speech was made by a Sioux, who complained
bitterly of the wrongs they had suffered and how they had
been driven from their homes by the Sacs and Foxes, their
warriors killed and their villages burned. Then followed
Keokuk, the great orator of his tribe, who replied at some
length, an interpreter repeating the speech after him. There
were those present who had heard Webster, Calhoun, Clay and
Benton in the same hall and they declared that for the manner
of delivery, for native eloquence, impassioned expression of
countenance, the chief surpassed them all ; and this while they
could not understand his words, save as they were repeated by
the interpreter. From Washington the}' went to New York,
where they were shown no little attention and Gen. Street

IOWA LEAVES 413

attempted to show them the city on foot. The people, in their
anxiety to see Keokuk and Black Hawk, crowded them beyond
the point of endurance and in order to avoid the throng they
were compelled to make their escape through a store building
and reached their hotel through the back alleys and less fre-
quented streets. At Boston they were met at the depot by a
delegation of leading citizens and conveyed in carriages to the
hotel. The next day they were taken in open carriages and,
with a guard of honor on foot, they were shown the whole cit}'.
During their stay in Boston they were the guests of the great
American orator, Edward Everett, who made a banquet for
them. When the Indians returned and were asked about New
York they only expressed their disgust. Boston was the only
city in the United States in their estimation.

The Indians were soon destined to create no further dis-
turbance upon the soil of Iowa, which the white man had
marked for his own. In accordance with the stipulations of
sacred treaties, and likewise agreeably to the demands of the
times, the allotted time had now come for the red man to move
westward again on his roving mission and add one more proof
that his race is fast passing away and must eventually dis-
appear before the restless march of the Anglo-Saxon, as did
the traditionary Mound Builder give place to the predatory red
man of later times.

And did the dust
Of these fair sohtudes once stir with hfe
And burn with passion? Let the mighty mounds
That overlook the rivers, or that rise
In the dim forests crowded with old oaks
A nswer. A race that has long passed away
Built them. The red man came —
The roaming hunter tribes, warlike and fierce —
And the Mound Builders vanished from the earth.
The solitude of centuries untold

414 IOWA LEAVES.

Has settled where they dwelt. The prairie wolf
Howls in their meadows and his fresh-dug den
Yawns by my path. The gopher mines the ground
Where stood their swarming cities. All is gone —
All save the piles of earth tnat hold their bones —
The platforms where they worshiped unknown gods.

The Indian title to the lands now included in the bounds
of central Iowa expired at midnight of October ii, 1845. Mr.
H. B. Turrell, in his brief work entitled, "Historical Reminis-
cences of Des Moines," says:

"This period was implacently awaited by those who were
already here, for after that time each one was at liberty to
make a claim of 320 acres, which could be held until the gov-
ernment brought the lands into market and then purchased
under such regulations as was the custom in 1857.

"Long before the expiration of the Indian title the settlers
around the fort had made arrangements with each other and
the most valuable tracts were already considered claims. Some
claims were even measured and staked off, but this was of no
validity and done only for convenience or to facilitate such sub-
sequent survey as was absolutely necessary to establish and
identify it.

" So eager were the settlers, who had previously remained
only at the sufferance of the general government, to have per-
manent homes near the fort that during the forepart of the
night preceding October 1 1 men were stationed in all direc-
tions around, with instructions to immediately begin the
measurement of claims as soon as midnight arrived,

" Precisely at midnight the loud report of a musket fired
from the agency house announced that the empire of the red
man had ended forever and that of his master race had begun.
Answering reports rang sharply on the night air in quick sue-

IOWA LEAVES. 415

cession from every hill-top and every valley, till the signal was
conveyed for miles around and all understood that civilization
had now commenced her reign in central Iowa.

"The moon' was slowly sinking in the west and its beams
afforded a feeble and uncertain light for the measurement of
claims in which so many were engaged. 'Ere long the land-
scape was enshrouded in darkness, save the wild and fitful glar-
ing of the torches carried by the claim-makers. Before the
night had entirely worn away the rough surveys were finished
and the Indan lands had found new tenants.

"Throughout the country thousands of acres were laid off
in claims before dawn. Settlers rushed in by hundreds and
the regions, lately so tranquil and silent, felt the impulse of the
change and became vocal with sounds of industrv and enterprise.

"A reserve of a square mile around the fort was main-
tained so long as Ft. Des Moines remained a militar}- post.
Part of the troops were removed in the autumn of 1845, the
remainder continued until June of the ensuing year. One hun-
dred and sixty acres of this reserve, including all the buildings
belonging to the fort, were afterward ceded by congress to
Polk county and for several years these buildings furnished the
county with various public offices."

The settlements in central Iowa properly began in October,
1845, as prior to that time no settlements were possible, except
by the special permit of the general government and in the
interests of the garrison of the fort. The histor}' of the county
begins, however, over three years earlier, when the fort was
established at the Raccoon Fork and when the first white
persons located there, many of whom afterward became perma-
nent settlers of central Iowa. There is no doubt but that the
location of the fort at the Raccoon Fork settled the destiny

416 IOWA LEAVES.

of the future capital city and did much to hasten the de-
velopment of the material resources of the surrounding-
countr}'.

On May 9, 1843, the little steamer lone arrived at the
place where the city of Des Moines now stands with a detach-
ment of troops on board, who immediately on their landing com-
menced the work of constructing the various buildings which
were denominated the fort. The lone was the first steamboat
that had ever ventured to disturb the clear water of the Des
Moines so far from its mouth. Having disembarked the troops
with their accoutrements, baggage and the military stores which
composed her lading, she departed. Capt. Allen, the com-
mandant of the future fort, returned with her to make arrange-
ments for bringing on the rest of the troops. In a month or
two they arrived to join their comrades, a mere corporal's
guard which Capt. Allen had left, and all immediately engaged
heartily in building their barracks.

While thus employed they encamped along the bank of
the river above what is now Court avenue. Their labors were
severe and they had many privations to undergo, but a soldier's
disposition grows very facile and readily accommodates itself to
every change of circumstance. Their gay songs and loud
laughter at evening mingled with the dashings of the river and
the beatings of the morning drum, or the loud bugle notes
awakened to new responses the echoes of surrounding hills and
gave the western breezes their first lessons in our national
melodies. The balmy air was invigorating and healthful, the
beauties of summer adorned the forests and prairies, the
enchantments were profusely spread around them, all combining
to render their situation pleasing and attractive, so far as
natural charms could do so.

IOWA LEAVES. 417

The buildings which composed the fort were scattered
along the banks of the Des Moines river and at various points
through what is now the business part of the town. They
consisted of barracks for the men and stables for the horses
and were some twenty or twenty-five in number, a part of
of which remained until 1857.

These buildings were double log cabins, such as the early
settlers often built and most of our readers have heard of; in
another sense they were different from the typical double log
cabin in that they were designed for a place of defense against
any possible hostile incursion of the Indians. The double log
cabin, frequently found in the early settlements, was two single
cabins, built with their gables facing each other, with a
space between, equal in size to the ground covered by one of
the cabins. When the roof was put on it was extended across
the open space between, thus forming a court which was useful
for storing away certain furniture needed only on extraordinary
occasions, farming implements, etc. ; in addition to this it
afforded a good and convenient shelter for the domestic
animals in case of severe storms. The quarters of the garrison
at the fort were houses similar to the double log cabin just
described, with the exception that the side of the building
facing outward was built up solid with logs, instead of having
an open court, and at regular intervals in that side were small
windows or loopholes through which the soldiers could dis-
charge their pieces in case of as Indian attack.

As remarked by Mr. Turrell, there were some twenty or
twenty-five of these buildings and, as they were located along
the Des Moines river to the point and then up Coon river for a
distance, the ground upon which they were built extended in
the shape of an acute-angled triangle with the apex at Coon

418 IOWA LEAVES.

Point. A towering flag-staff stood about midway between the
sides of the triangle, the location being not far from where the
principal part of the city now stands. This flag-staff was cut
down soon after the soldiers departed, the destruction of which
was a foolish and unnecessary act. If proper measures had
been taken to preserve that flag-staff it might still be standing
where the patriotic soldiers first planted it; such a relic of the
first days of central Iowa, were it now in existence, would be of
incalculable value, not only as a memento of early days but as
a fixed point from which the exact situation of all the early
buildings could be accurately and readily estimated.

FT. DES MOINES. AS IT NOW^ IS.

In the account aireaay given of Ft. Des Moines a toler-
ably good idea can be formed of the place at the time the
Indians were removed; with the exception of the soldiers'
quarters and the establishment of Robert Kinzie, the govern-
ment sutler, there were no improvements on the west side.
The improvements on the east side consisted of the buildings
occupied by the Indian agents, Indian traders and fur dealers.
According: to that account there could not have been more
than twenty-five or thirty log buildings all told and not exceed-
ing fifteen or twenty inhabitants, excluding the soldiers. In
speaking of this matter Mr. Turrell says:

"The foregoing enumeration includes very nearly all of the
residents who settled near the fort in 1843, except the govern-
ment troops. Their number continued about the same until
the Indian title expired, when emigrants poured in like a flood."

A reserve of a square around the fort was maintained so
long as Ft. Des Moines continued a military post. Part of
the troops were removed in the autumn of 1845, the remainder

IOWA LEAVES. 419

continued till June of the ensuing year. It will be impossible,
and it would not be practicable were it possible, to give a full
list of the persons who settled at Des Moines during the first
few years, neither will it be practicable to note definitely all the
improvements which were made from 1846 to 1850, when the
pioneer days ended in northeast and central Iowa.

According to Nicollet the name Des Moines, which has
been attached to the largest river, one of the first counties
organized and the capital of the state, is a corruption of an In-
dian word signifying "at the road." He remarks: "But in the
latter times the inhabitants associated this name (^Rivers des
Afoins^ with that of the Trappist monks (^Moine de la Trappe)^
who resided on the Indian mounds of the American bottom. It
was then concluded that the true reading of the Rivers des
Aloins was Rivere Des Moines or river of the monks, by which
name it is designated on all maps." From an article written
by Judge Negus of Fairfield, published in the "Annals of Iowa"
some twenty years ago, entitled "The River of the Mounds," we
take the following extracts :

"Nearly every state has some one particular river which
especially attracts the attention of its citizens, on which their
minds delight to dwell, about which they bestow their praise.

"Iowa has the beautiful river Des Moines, on which her cit-
izens delight to bestow their eulogies. More has been done,
said and thouorht about this river than all the other rivers in the
state. In beauty of native scenery, in productiveness of soil, in
mineral wealth and in many things that attract attention and
add to the comfort of man the valley of the Des Moines is not
surpassed by any locality in the world.

"The banks of this great watercourse and the surround-
ing country bear the marks of having been the home of a

420 IOWA LEAVES.

numerous people centuries in the past and that this people were
possessed of many of the arts of civilized life. But of what race
of people they were and of the acts and scenes which have taken
place in this beautiful valley we may imagine but probably never
know. Of their habits and customs they have left some
marks; but still there is wrapped around these evidences of
their doings a mystery that is hard to solve.'"

With this brief sketch of the early settlements of Des
Moines and central Iowa we now pass to the metropolis and
capital city as she stands to-day on the banks of the same peace-
ful Des Moines where dwelt the red race centuries ago.

In 1856 Des Moines was quite a place and its growth from
that time has been so rapid that in order to give even a synop-
sis of the improvem.ents made during that period would till a
book of ordinary size; therefore, we give below a brief but in-
teresting sketch of the city of to-day and how she appears to the
visitor of 1890.

THE PRIDE OF IOWA.

The growth of this city has been of that nature that makes
it in the first place a healthy one — one that goes to make up a
solid city in every respect. The private buildings that have
been erected are of a permanent and substantial character, while
those of a public nature are far in advance of those of previous
years, so far as the workmanship, material and stability is con-
cerned, the city having discarded the rapidly decaying wood
block pavement and in its stead adopted what should have been
done years ago, the substantial brick pavement, which will stand
the hard test to which the streets are subjected, and, in addition
to this, keep the money that is paid out from year to year for
this improvement at home and furnish employment to scores of
workinsrmen.

IOWA LEAVES.

421

As a city of homes Des Moines has always held a pre-em-
inent position and as such is known far and wide, and in keep-
ing with the record of the last decade has erected the past year

GRAND OPERA-HOUSE, DES MOINES.

hundreds of elegant residences and adorned them with beauti-
ful lawns, etc. This has not been confined to any part of the
city, but in all directions from the center they can be found by

422 IOWA LEAVES.

scores. Another prime factor in this part of the material
growth of the capital city is the fact that fully nine-tenths of the
private residences built are for the occupancy of their owners
as homes, and they are at once convenient, tasteful and comfort-
able. There is probably not another city in the Union for its
size that contains so few so-styled tenement blocks as Des
Moines, but it is rather the rule that the tenant has a house and
lot to himself and family, a boon not vouchsafed to the tenement
class in many cities.

Notwithstanding the immense number of new houses
erected during the year just passed, there has been more than
a corresponding increase in population, for it is a well-known
fact that it is next to impossible to rent a house such as would
be wanted by a family of even moderate means.

The year of 1890 has certainly been a most propitious one
for the capital city in the way of both private and p'ublic im-
provements and we shall only enumerate a few of the more
prominent features brought before us b}' a personal visit and
careful research about the city not long since. Besides the
erection and improvement of 580 buildings for private use at a
cost of $2,365,450 there have been a number of business blocks
erected and large outlays of money for additions to others.
The city has done a considerable amount of brick paving, curb-
ing, sewering, etc., the total of which amounts to the neat sum
of $172,590.51; but this sum is an insignificant one when com-
pared with the amount expended by the Electric Street Car
Company, which foots up $348,875.41. The railroads have
also contributed their mite in the way of improvements to the
amount of $128,000, while the gas and electric light and power
companies have expended no less than $250,000 in the exten-
sion of lines, new buildings, etc.

IOWA LEAVES. 423

The water company has expended $90,000; the telephone
and telegraph companies, $61,700; State Agricultural Society
and exhibitors, $27,000, and the zoological garden $12,000.
Among the building improvements we mention the Essex, the
Marquette Electric Street Railway power house, the Des
Moines Edison Company's new plant, the Des Moines Brick
Manufacturing Company's new plant, the Goode, Turner, Ken-
nedy, Percival & Hatton, Boyd and Clapp blocks.

The mentioning of the above improvements does not by
any means complete the list, even in a rough way, of the
expenditures of the money that has gone to the building up of
the city during the past 3'ear.

Des Moines is a city of beautiful churches and in these she
takes great pride; therefore_, thousands of dollars have been
spent for the erection of these buildings, viz.. Central Church
of Christ, University Place chapel. Sixth Presbyterian, St.
John's Lutheran and parsonage, St. Ambrose, Church of the
Visitation, Highland Park Presbyterian, Young Men's Christian
Association building and others, amounting to $325,000 and
all completed during the year of 1890. Another item that
helps to swell the list is that of colleges and schools and in
this line a great amount of money has been expended.

The principal improvements under this head have been
made by Highland Park College, Drake University, the dis-
tricts of east and west Des Moines, but new school edifices have
also been erected within the independent districts of Greenwood
park, Park avenue. Lake park. North Des Moines and Capital
park, these in the aggregate footing up over $328,000. In
speaking of the schools and the money being expended in the
capital city in adding to and building up their educational insti-
tutions, they are doin^ that which is making Des Moines widely

424

IOWA LEAVES.

known as an educational center and proving one of the greatest
incentives in adding to their rapidly-growing population by
bringing people from far and near who have children to educate.

SAVERY HOUSE, WEST LOCUST, CORNER FOURTH STREET.

This, added to the wide field presented for profitable invest-
ment, makes the capital city all the more desirable for a perma-
nent residence.

MANUFACTURING AND NEW ENTERPRISES.

In the way of new industrial enterprises the past twelve
months may be said to have been fruitful ones for this city, for

IOWA LEAVES. 425

an exceedingly large number of accessions have been made to
the already long list of manufactories, while those previously
established have many of them been enlarged by the addition
of machinery and the employment of a greater number of v^ork-
men; Des Moines has yet to learn of a single one that has
fallen behind the previous year in the amount of output or
dollars' worth of business done. In fact, there has been an
increase of over $2,000,000 in production and sales over the
previous year, which is a showing of which any city might be
proud. The many advantages of the capital city are becoming
more widely known each year and as they become better
known are bringing additions to their manufactories in the
shape of new enterprises, more capital from abroad, more
workmen, etc.

While some of the enterprises launched during the past
3'ear are not mammoth concerns, they are started under such
circumstances that they are bound to grow from year to year,
which is far preferable to embarking too largely and then hav-
ing to shorten sail in order to weather the breeze, which is only
too often the case, while in many instances the capital for
the formation of these new industries has been furnished b}^
their own citizens. The following additions have been made to
the city's industrial interests since January i, 1880:

Bales Automatic Car Coupler Company.
Springer Automatic Car Coupler Company.
Automatic Railway Signal Company.
Merchants' Barb Wire Company.
Capital City Oatmeal Company.
Interstate Lock, Brick & Paving Company.
Crabb Iron Fence Company.
Central Brick & Tile Company.
Iowa Trunk & Bag Manufacturing Company.
Des Moines Glove Manufacturing Company.

426 IOWA LEAVES.

Pearsall-Lyman Company — extracts, etc.

Bachman's Yeast Manufacturing Company.

National Novelty Company.

Iowa Straw & Felt Hat Factory.

Des Moines Water Power Electric Company.

Des Moines Novelty Company.

Des Moines Sanitary & Cremation Company.

Des Moines Brick Manufacturing Company.

Bromley Jewelry Manufacturing Company.

Henshaw & Clark — agricultural steam boilers.

Des Moines Yeast Manufacturing Company.

Daisy Washing Machine Company.

Iowa Rubber Stamp & Stencil Company.

Alliance Binder Twine Company.

Iowa Fruit Preserving Works.

Capital City Fuel Gas Company.

Des Moines Knitting Factory.

United States Stock Feed Company.

The Kratzer Carriage Company.

Economic Gas Tip Company.

William's Shirt Manufacturing Company.

The Capilline Company.

Dealers' Manufacturing & Jobbing Company.

Morgan Well Auger Company.

Des Moines Box Works.

Ring, Mop & Wringer Company.

Bristol Manufacturing Company.

Hess Storage Battery Company.

Begiven & Buttell Piano Factory.

Iowa Machine, Novelty & Brass Works.

Des Moines Beet Sugar & Preserving Company.

Field Manufacturing Company.

Early Bird Phosphate Company.

Hawk-eye Wire & Carpet Stretcher Company.

Standard Coal Company.

Hoove Fence Loom Company.

Springer Buckle Company.

Railway Car Automatic Fire Extinguishing Company.

In addition to these there are three or four others that are
just completing their organization, but who have not yet re-
corded their articles of corporation.

IOWA LEAVES. 427

Heretofore, in order to do brick paving, the city has been
obliged to procure the material in other markets, but during
the past season two new plants — one of them the largest in the
west — have been erected and put in operation. These are the
Des Moines Brick Manufacturing Company and Central Brick
& Tile Company plants, the first calling for an expenditure of
^100,000 and the latter of $20,000. In addition to these the
Merrill Brick Company and the Iowa Pipe & Tile Company
are now turning out paving brick. No longer will the city be
obliged to go away from home for material. The largest
increase in manufacturing in any one line during the past year
has been in pork-packing, which shows an increase of over
$500,000. The other more notable lines were confectionery,
brick, linseed oil, proprietary medicines, soap, furniture and
woolen goods.

THE JOBBING TRADE.

The wholesale trade of the capital city was never on a
more substantial footing than at the present time and a larger
volume of business has been transacted than ever before —
$4,000,000 more — while the increase has been more marked
in some lines than in others. There is hardly a single branch
of the jobbing trade that has not made a great advance in
volume the past season. The wholesale firms are becoming
more aggressive each year and pushing out farther in pursuit
of trade and they are meeting with deserved success. Some
of our large institutions now cover, with their traveling men,
fully half of the states in the Union and are adding to this each
successive year. Every year during the past decade has seen
additions to the army of traveling men employed by the home
houses of the capital city and last year was no exception to the
rule, for there was quite an increase made by some of the old

428 IOWA LEAVES.

houses, while the new ones added their quota to the already
large number.

A large dry goods house and another oil tank company
were added to the jobbing interests of the city during the
spring and met with a much larger business than was expected.
Present appearances would indicate the opening up of several
new lines during the coming year and large additions will be
made to those already represented.

THE RETAIL TRADE.

While the retail business of the city does not enter into the
statistics as prepared by the commercial exchange, considerable
attention has been paid to the subject while gathering up other
branches of business. It is expressing it very mildl}^ when we
say that it is in a healthy condition, for with one accord the
retail merchants proclaim that prices have been well sustained,
collections have been fully up to the average — man}^ report
them better — and the amount of business has grown very
perceptibly. There have been less failures in the capital city
during the year than heretofore and those few who have been
so unfortunate have been of that class whose suspension involved
such small amounts as to receive hardly a passing notice.

THE COAL TRADE.

New mines have been operated and developed in the
vicinity of the capital city with excellent profits, new houses
have been built for the miners and improvements have been
made to the amount of over $100,000.

THE GRAIN BUSINESS.

Last year Iowa was blessed with the most bountiful crop
of grain ever known and other states enjoyed like blessings to

IOWA LEAVES.

429

a great degree, causing prices to drop so low that in tlie aggre-
gate the money value of their crops was less than in several
previous 3'ears and the grain firms, while handling thousands of
bushels more grain, did but a very small percentage more of
business than in 1888. The past year, while production has

^'r^'^m

CALLAHAN COLLEGE, WEST PLEASANT, CORNER ELEVENTH STREET,

DES MOINES.

not been so abundant, values have advanced and a larger
increase is shown in the volume of business transacted at this
point. The increase this year is $185,000 on a moderate crop
as compared with $25,000 increase last year with an immense
production.

430 IOWA LEAVES.

STOCK YARDS BUSINESS.

The Union Stock Yards, which were established at the
capital city some months ago, have had an increase of $328,980
over the year 1889.

THE INSURANCE BUSINESS.

As a general thing the companies engaged in this business
in the capital city confine their risks to Iowa business and this
is appreciated by our state people who place their insurance
with them, and so, almost without exception, the home compa-
nies report a material increase during the year in the amount
of premiums received, the increase for the fire companies alone
showing $109,011. The life companies of the city are growing
right along from year to year and they have received $110,116
more in premiums than in the preceding year. The one acci-
dent company has more than doubled its business and the live
stock company shows a gain of $12,000 — about 20 per cent.

THE FINANCIAL INTERESTS.

Des Moines is unquestionably the financial center of the
greatest state in the Union and her banks are recognized all
over the country for their soundness and stability, having been,
without exception, from the very start managed by careful,
conservative financiers, who are adding to their surplus every
year. Their capital has been taken by home citizens, which
makes it. free from the entanglements quite frequently brought
about by the fluctuations on Wall street.

During the recent troublesome times in many of our larger
cities, these financial institutions have stood as firm as a rock,
ready at all times to meet their engagements and not standing
trembling and not knowing what a day may bring forth. Des

IOWA LEAVES. 431

Moines has been virtually built up within herself and the
money that has gone to make her improvements has been fur-
nished by home men and not by eastern capitalists. So she is
not heavily indebted to the east, as are many of our western
cities, which makes her credit both at home and abroad far
ahead of many of her neighbors. While at the present time
there is a great scarcity in the money market all over the
country, there is no city in the country that is as little affected
by it as the city of Des Moines. During the past year two new
financial institutions have been added, one a savings bank and
the other a private bank. Besides these the many loan and
trust companies are strong, well officered and doing a large and
increasin.fT: business.

THE ELECTRIC RAILW^AY.

If there is one thing more than another about the capital
city on which she dotes it is her elegantly equipped street rail-
way. There is no one thing connected with the city of Des
Moines in which more energy and push have been displayed
than that of the street railway during the past year. They
have replaced the entire horse railway system that was in
existence at the beginning of the year with electricity. This
has not been accomplished by merely putting in electricity as
a motive power, but the entire lines have been rebuilt with new
steel rails, ties, etc., and equipped with new cars and in order
to do this it was made necessary to erect a new power-house
fully equipped with the latest improved machinery. In order
to accomplish this one thing an outlay of no less than $ioo,-
ooo was demanded; it has been done and a finer or more
complete power-house is not found in the country. In the
rebuilding of the old lines and new extensions almost $250,000

432 IOWA LEAVES.

was expended, which has given employment to a small army
of men the entire season. While it would seem that the field
was pretty well covered already, we are informed that the com-
pany is not yet satisfied, nor will it be until Des Moines stands
at the head of all cities of the country so far as the electric
street railway is concerned; to this end it will expend a large
sum of money the coming year.

Among the principal additions made to the system the past
season have been the "Zoo.," Grand avenue, IngersoU avenue,
East Sixth street, Ninth street, cotton mill and fair ground
lines. During the coming 3'ear the North Motor line will be
changed to an electric line and the Sevastapool line built, with
extensions on other lines whenever needed. A line to Easton
place and Hyde Park is also among the probabilities.

SUMMARY OF PUBLIC IMPROVEMENTS FOR 1890.

551 Private Residences, etc $1,713,080.00

18 Colleges, Schools, etc 328,118.00

1 1 Churches, etc 324,252 .00

Total private improvements $2,365,450.00

Add general and public improvements i , 168,61 3 . 68

Total for 1890 ' $3,534,663.68

Total number pieces of mail received for 1890 10,262,499

Total number of pieces of mail dispatched for i8go 12,067,966

PEOPLE EMPLOYED AND WAGES PAID.

The manufacturing industries, wholesale houses, insurance
companies, clerks, accountants, mechanics, operators, type-
writers show as to the numbers employed in the city as follows:

Traveling Salesmen 453

Accountants, Mechanics, etc. (male) 5.439

Accountants, Typewriters, Operators, etc. (female) 1,017

Total 6,909

IOWA LEAVES. 433

The salaries and wages paid tliese emplo3es aggregated
the past year the sum of $3,468,318.

* The total transfers of real estate for the year 1890 show an
increase in the volume of transactions over those of the pre-
vious year amounting to $10,881,118.79.

REAL ESTATE MARKET,

During the past year real estate in the capital city has
more than held its own, while the volume of transfers, the
exact figures of which are given in another column, slightly
exceeds that of the previous year. The sales made have been
decidedly healthier, with much larger profits than for years past.

THE COMING YEAR BUILDING IMPROVEMENTS, ETC.

Every indication goes to show that there will be a far
greater amount of building done the coming season than for
any like period in the history of Des Moines. This will not be
confined merel}'' to the erection of a great number of private
dwellings, which will far outnumber those of the past year,
but will embrace a large number of elegant and costly business
blocks and factories, besides churches, educational buildings,
etc. Already many plans and specifications have been made
and adopted; some have progressed to that point where bids
for construction have been asked for and in other cases con-
tracts have already been let and materials secured. As a class
the business blocks will be made larger, more ornate and far
more costly than any heretofore erected in this or any other
city of Iowa and will compare favorably with any in the west.
There are several building projects being talked of at this time
that have not yet reached that point where announcement can
be made, but that they will soon take definite shape there is
hardly a doubt.

434 IOWA LEAVES.

In the wa}' o. public improvements much will be accom-
plished in the year to come, with the probability that it will
exceed in amount that of any previous 3'ear. Now that brick
pavement has been adopted for the streets, and it has been
found that those of the home manufacture are of a superior
kind, there is no reason why a vast amount of pavement should
not be put in. It is very manifest that this will be done, for
quite a number of streets have already been ordered paved and
in some instances the contracts have been let, while the city
council has already been petitioned for the paving of several
others. The matter of curbing is not entirely dependent on
the paving of streets, but where paving is ordered curbing has
also to be done and in many instances curbing is ordered a year
or more in advance.

Des Moines is far ahead of many larger cities in the
amount of sewering already done and there is no question
that quite an amount will be put in this year. The contract for
the erection of the magnificent new bridge over the Des Moines
on Walnut street has been let by the board of public works and
will add many thousands of dollars to the sum total of money
expended by the city in the year to come. A new and com-
modious house for the use of the fire and police departments,
near the city hall, will be built at a cost of $10,000.

THE EQUITABLE BUILDING.

This magnificent structure, costing over $500,000, is to be
erected on the northwest corner of Sixth avenue and Locust
street by the Equitable Life Association of New York. The
building will be 66 by 132 feet, with the main entrance on
Sixth avenue and will be eight full stories high besides the
basement and constructed solely for an office building, fireproof

IOWA LEAVES.

435

and modern in ever}- respect. The first two stories will be
constructed of the beautiful buff granite of New Hampshire,
while the remainder will be built of buff pressed brick with

terra-cotta and stone
trimmings. The base-
ment, which will be
tw^enty feet in height,
will be devoted to safety-
deposit vaults, making
the largest safety de-
posit vaults in the
countr3^ The main
entrance will be of an
imposing character,
with one of the finest,
architecturally consid-,
ered, staircases to be
found anvwhere. The
entrances, halls and
vestibules will be fin-
ished in white marble

THE EQUITABLE BUILDING.

and one powerful freight and three rapid passenger elevators
will be provided. The offices will be in suites, furnished with
vaults and modern conveniences and provided with fireplaces
and mantels throughout. The building will be lighted by elec-
tricity and an artesian well will supply the water. This build-
ing will be the finest in Iowa, except the capitol.

THE YOUXGERMAN BLOCK.

An elegant eight-story building will be erected the coming
summer by Mr. Conrad Youngerman on the corner of Fifth

436

IOWA LEAVES.

and Mulberry streets, calling for an outlay of $250,000. The
architects completed the plans and specifications for this costly
edifice some time ago, since which Mr. Youngerman has been
busily engaged in letting contracts for material, etc., much of
which has alread}' been secured. The present block, occupying
the site of the new structure, will be torn down April i and

THE YOUNGERMAN BLOCK.

work will be pushed as fast as a regiment of workmen can do
it until its completion, which will not be later than September i
next. This imposing block will be 66 by 133 feet in size, of
pressed rustic brick with Bedford stone trimmings and will con-
tain 200 office rooms and fifty-five vaults. Two rapid pas-
senger elevators will be put in to meet the wants of the block's
occupants. The main entrance to the edifice will be on Fifth

IOWA LEAVES. 437

Street in the center of the block. It will be built in the most
modern and approved style and contain all the conveniences to
be found in any first-class office block.

A COLLEGE BUILDING.

Although the Highland Park College Company expended
over $214,000 during the past year in buildings, the attend-
ance of students has so far exceeded their most sanguine
expectations that they will be obhged to have more room at
the beginning of the next school year and already they have
decided to erect another large structure as a department build-
ing; it will cost fully $50,000 and may reach a much larger
amount.

ANOTHER COLLEGE BUILDING.

A large four-story building, 64 by 86 feet in size, to be
known as Science Hall, will be erected by Drake University
the coming spring and completed in time for the opening of the
next college year. It will be of pressed brick, stone founda-
tion and ornamented with slate roof and will cost $40,000
when ready for occupancy. The gymnasium will occupy ^6
by 60 feet and two stories in height and the remainder of the
lirst two stories will be occupied by the Young Men's Chris-
tian Association rooms, alumni parlors and bath-rooms. The
third story will be used for a laboratory and lecture room,
while the fourth floor will be devoted to a museum and natural
science room.

THE NEW SANITARIUM.

• The Des Moines Sanitarium Company have had the plans
and specifications for the new sanitarium gotten up by Foster &
Liebbe, architects, and are closing the contract for the erection
of a large, ornate and substantial main building and wing.

438 IOWA LEAVES.

The main building will be 44 b}' 106 feet and four stories high,
with a west wing 116 by 36 feet, three stories high. A large
veranda sixteen feet in width will run around the entire fronts
of both building and wing. The building is in close proximity
to the famous Hyde Park mineral spring on the crest of a hill
overlooking the state fair grounds and Factory flat, while to
the west a fine view is obtained of a large portion of the
city.

Elegant bath-rooms will be provided in abundance and
everything done to make comfortable those who choose to avail
themselves of its advantages. The cost of the main building
and wing will be $30,000 and in addition to this no less than
$20,000 will be expended in beautifying the grounds, construct-
ing an artificial lake, etc.

THE EXPOSITION BUILDING.

Mr. J. F. Tierney, who recently purchased the exposition
building, has decided to make some extensive improvements
and attractions this year. The reconstruction of this building
calls for a modern four-story and basement block. In order to
do this the entire front walls on Walnut and Eisfhth streets will
be taken down to the foundation and new and elegant fronts
built. The Walnut street front will be divided into six store
rooms with large plate-glass windows, modern entrances, etc.
The facilities for reaching the upper fioors will be by means
of broad staircases opening on Eighth street and passenger
elevators reached from the same street, while freight eleva-
tors will also be provided. The rooms all over the building
will be provided with both hot and cold water. The recon.
struction, as already mapped out, calls for an expenditure of
$40,000.

IOWA LEAVES. 439

THE NEW UNION DEPOT.

The Des Moines Union Railway Company have had plans
prepared for a magnificent union depot facing on Cherry street
and extending from Fifth to Ninth street. The structure is
much like the union depot at Toledo, Ohio, and will cause an
expenditure of $300,000, while the yard work and double-track
steel bridge across the Des Moines will bring the outlay close,
if not quite up, to $500,000. The main building will contain
the passenger station proper, with the usual large waiting-rooms
for ladies and gentlemen, the restaurant and dining halls, bag-
gage and express rooms, etc., while the main offices of the Des
Moines Union Railway Company and such other roads as
require office room will be located on the second floor. The
projected depot building will be one of the largest to be found
west of Chicago, while for "convenience of access to all parts of
the city no better site could be selected.

THE ROACH BLOCK.

A few months since Mr. Thomas Roach of Ft. Worth,
Tex., purchased the Foster block on Walnut street, together
with the land lying north of the same, running to the alley.
His faith in Des Moines has become so strong that he will erect
a modern three-story and basement double-front store block,
facing on Ninth street.

The structure will be of beautiful design, in pressed brick
with stone trimmings and work has commenced thereon.

OTHER BUILDING IMPROVEMENTS.

Lowry W. Goode of this city contemplates the expending
of at least $200,000 in new buildings during the year 1891. In
all probability another large business block will be erected and

440 IOWA LEAVES.

quite a number of cottages built at Central place, Bate's addi-
tion, etc. The Hyde Park Investment Company will build
six large dwelling-houses at Hyde Park the coming season,
which will average $4,000 each. The Des Moines Sanitarium
Company will erect three cottages at a cost of $2,000 each on
the sanitarium grounds.

There seems to be no doubt but that Mr. Peet, who
expended about $25,000 the past }ear in laying out streets,
grading lots, etc., on his large tract l3ing just west of Central
place, will put up quite a large number of residences during the
spring and summer. Arrangements have been about completed
for the erection of three new churches and a large amount of
money will also be expended by the school board in the erec-
tion and betterment of buildings, which will be found necessary
by the rapid growth of the cit}', as shown by the late school
census, which shows Des Moines to be about two-fifths larger
than any other city in the state.

During the coming year the Des Moines Water Power
Electric Company will erect a large factory building near the
power-house, where room and power can be secured by such
manufacturers as choose to occupy it. This will be a great
boon to many small industries that do not wish to invest capital
in the erection of factory buildings of their own.

NEW MANUFACTORIES FOR 189I.

The outlook for the addition of many new manufacturing
industries in the coming months could hardly be brighter than
it is at present. Several new ones have already completed
their arrangements for locating here, some are negotiating for
locations and a great number are investigating the citv's advan-
tages, so far as their several lines of business are concerned.

IOWA LEAVES. 441

This is manifest by the vast numDer of inquiries being received
daily by the Commercial Exchange., and the correspondence
in the main is from those manufacturers who have been
successful heretofore and have ample capital to carry on
this business rather than from so-called adventurers w^ho are
seeking a large bonus for some industry which is found to fail
as soon as the bonus is used up, even if it should survive that
length of time. Many of these factories seeking a change of
location have their homes in the far east, while their trade, or
the great bulk of it, is in the west and, with equal, or nearly
equal, advantages presented by the great and growing west,
they are obliged to occupy the field or suffer a diminution of
business by its occupation by others. Man}^ are forced to a
change b}' the increased cost of production in the way of fuel,
the working out of clay banks, sand, etc., from which they have
obtained their supplies, while there are others now located
in overcrowded districts where the production far exceeds the
demand and they are at all times in peril from strikes.

FUEL GAS PLANT.

The Capital City Gas Light Company during the past
year purchased a block or more of ground south of their present
site and began work on their new fuel gas plant, putting in a
holder tank, which is a tine piece of masonry, using 700,000
brick and expending the sum of $40,000. The holder will have
a capacity of 300,000 cubic feet and will be the largest in the
country and the buildings about live times as large as the
present plant of the company — the purifying house, the build-
ings for the condensers and the scrubbers for removing the
sulphur, injurious gases and tarry vapors, generating building
and suitable ones for all the machinery necessary. Mechanical

442 IOWA LEAVES.

appliances will be put in the new works for all the material
used in the manufacture of fuel gas. The plans are so arranged
that when the coal has been once put into the house from the
cars the furnaces and retorts can be filled without handling the
coal over again. This will be strictl}- a fuel gas plant, the
illuminating gas for the city being manufactured at the present
works. Nothinof will be left undone to make it one of the most
complete plants to be found anywhere. Fully $500,000 will be
used in the construction and equipment of these new works and
the total sum may even exceed this amount.

BEET SUGAR FACTORY.

The beet sugar and preserving company that was organ-
ized some time ago have already commenced operations as far
as the preserving department of the works is concerned and are
turning out about three tons of preserves, jellies, etc., daily.
About June i the machinery will all be in place for the manu-
facture of starch and syrups and the remainder of the
machinery for the production of beet sugar will be ready for
operation by October i, when the beets will be in condition
to work. One thousand or more acres of beets will be planted
each year.

COLD STORAGE HOUSE.

Messrs. Williams & Powell will build at an early date a
cold storage plant on the bank of the river at Factory fiat, with
a capacity of 1,000 head of cattle. The main object is to
furnish the citizens with better meat during the hot weather.
They will slaughter and hold the meat in cold storage until it
is thoroughly ripened and Des Moines will then be able to
secure as good meat as can be found in any of the markets of
the world. This will call for an investment of $20,000 or more.

IOWA LEAVES. 443

A HOSIERY MILL.

We are informed by citizens of this city that early in the
year there will be put in operation a mill for the knitting of
all kinds of hosiery, both for women and children. The mill
will be equipped with the very latest and most modern appli-
ances for the production of this line of goods.

THE STANDARD COAL COMPANY.

The Standard Coal 'Company, with a capital of $1,000,000,
has already been formed and filed articles of incorporation.
The company is composed entirely of eastern capitalists and
they will engage extensively in the manufacture of briquettes
in this city. These briquettes are manufactured from coal
slack in combination with oil and pressed into bricks, which
make them exceedingly handy for the furnace, etc., and it is
claimed that they can be sold at a very low price, while as
fuel they are equal to the very best lump coal. Quite an
amount of machinery will be used by this new plant and it
will furnish employment to a large force of workmen.

The Empire Steam Gauge Company, with a capital of
$150,000, is another eastern company that has been organized
and filed articles of incorporation to manufacture in Des Moines
steam gauges and other articles on a large scale. The capital
employed in this industry is all controlled by wealthy men in
Massachusetts and they selected Des Moines on account of its
cheap fuel and unsurpassed shipping facilities.

And still another nevv' industry, composed almost exclu-
sively of Massachusetts men and capital, has tiled articles
of incorporation with Des Moines — the Field Manufacturing
Company. This industry has a capital of $150,000 and
will manufacture an extensive line of novelties such as are

444 IOWA LEAVES.

used in every family and will push the business in every
direction.

Among the many new industries looking up the advis-
ability of locating their plants in this city may be mentioned
three glass factories for the manufacture of bottles, both flint
and green; a window-glass factory, a fruit jar factor}', a rolling
mill for the manufacture of merchant iron and now employing
about 300 hands, a corset factory, an overall factory, which is
one of the largest in the Union; a pump factory, hosiery and
underwear mill, a cap factory, a pottery for the manufacture of
fire clay and cooking utensils; one for the making of Rocking-
ham and yellow ware, a manufactory of patented household
specialties and a large flouring mill.

NEW RAILROADS.

Two new railroads will be added during the year to Des
Moines' railway system, thus giving the city no less than nine-
teen roads and there is also a rumor in the air that there may
be a third one. Both of the roads that are virtually assured
will be of great benefit to the city, opening up a section of
countr}' that has heretofore been closed on account of its
inaccessibility in the way of shipment.

A number of financial institutions will be added during
the year and the great bulk of the capital composing them
will be furnished by residents of the eastern states. One of
these new institutions is the Marquardt Savings bank, which
has opened its doors in its handsome new quarters on the
corner of Locust and Fifth streets. A national bank with a
paid-up capital of $500,000 is said to be assured, the entire
amount being furnished by New York financiers. Two other
financial organizations have begun operations, the Union

IOWA LEAVES. 445

Redemption & Bond Association and Equitable Co-operative
Syndicate, both composed of Massachusetts capitaHsts and
organized for the investment of eastern capital in this section.
Taken all in all, the future prospects for this city are far
better than any of the many bright years that have passed into
history. Many of the factories of this city are now behind
with their orders and all are well stocked with them. The
jobbers and merchants report growing business. Real estate
men are well satisfied with the situation. Bankers are predict-
ing better times in monetary affairs. Colleges are growing in
reputation and bringing still larger numbers of students to the
city and there is no reason why the whole state of Iowa should
not rejoice at the present outlook which her beautiful capital
city bears to-day. Northeast and central Iowa are teeming
with beautiful agricultural lands and mineral wealth and those
seeking homes in the great west should give these regions a
personal inspection.

CONCLUSION.

IOWA ITS AGRICULTURAL ADVANTAGES AND INDUCEMENTS

TO EMIGRATION.

Iowa's sudden growth in population and solid distinctive
wealth is rarely equaled in new agricultural settlements
and has but few parallels in the histories of the states.
Less than half a century ago civilization had hardly planted its
aggressive foot within her border and the war-whoop of the
savage echoed and re-echoed over her plains and hills. Her
unbroken wilderness was rich and beautiful, but how lone and
limitless! No plow had broken the sod, not a mill dam inter-
rupted the murmur of her untamed streams in their onward
flow to the gulf and no white man's home adorned a spot of
her domain to mark the settled presence of civilization. All
was in a state of nature; all was new and undeveloped. But
what a change has been and is now going on! She is fast pass-
ing, she is honorably and safely passing, to the high destiny
that awaits her coming to crown her with success.

On July 4, 1838, with a population of 22,859, b}' an act of
congress approved June 12, 1838, Iowa was organized into a
territory and in 1846, by an act of congress approved March
3, 1845, it was admitted into the Union as a state. According
to the state census of 1867 it numbered 902,040 inhabitants,
with a property valuation of $256,517,184. In 1880 it was the
twent3'-eighth in population of the United States and territories,

446

IOWA LEAVES. 447

in 1850 it was the twenty-seventh and in i860 it was only the
twentieth.

Thirty-five years ago not a railroad threaded its way
s^cross her beauty, not a locomotive bluffed an Iowa breeze and
not a mile of rail guided the wheels of a speeding train over a
foot of Iowa soil. Now more than 3,000 miles check her sur-
face and answer to the call of business and pleasure, bending
with the surplus products of her fertility and the precious
freight of life, of beauty and of interest. In 1885, according to
the state census, 100,297,559 bushels of grain answered to the
demand of her productive industry.

But Iowa represents more than this — something higher
and nobler and better than material wealth and physical great-
ness alone. All her great interests are keeping step with the
sure and vigorous tread of modern progress.

As necessary as they are to pecuniary prosperity and
as acceptable as they are to our desires, it is not the depth or
richness of her soil, it is not her great mineral resources, it is
not her meandering streams flowing gracefully to the support
of the Father of Waters in its unceasing tribute to the main,
nor her landscape beauty, boundless and romantic; neither is it
her prairie grandeur, with its woodland relief stretching as far
as the eye can reach, that fills the soul and calls forth the
deepest heart-springs of local pride and attachment. More
beautiful, more transcendently winning than these, is her honor-
able growth and her great social development, that enchain the
better feelings. Her high religious tone and progressive ideas
cast about her an enchantment most pleasing and acceptable.

"Our liberties we prize and our rights we will maintain."
How often I have read and re-read that comprehensive motto
and compared it with lowa^s history and standing. It belongs

448 IOWA LEAVES.

to her in more than a single sense. She has already won it. It
is hers from merit no less than by adoption. An unswerving
devotion to its principles has been vindicated by her civil career
and nobly carried out on heroic battlefields. Does not its senti-
ment shine forth in her educational system.^ Does not its spirit
pervade her code of laws and flow as the vital current in every
vein of her organism.?

We like Iowa and her go-ahead spirit. We are proud of
her character, proud of her martial record and proud of her
constitutional guaranties and personal liberty. Yet at times we
have allowed our mind to wander to other states and other
countries in search of unallo3^ed perfection for full contentment.
We have studied their geography, read their history and
observed their progress, but from their geography, from their
history and from their progress we have gladl}' turned back to
our standard Iowa, relieved of discontent, with no diminished
confidence in her present greatness or shadowed hopes of her
future, but with renewed pride and satisfaction. Yes; to the
proud commonwealth of Iowa, so vast in her agricultural
resources and facilities, so progressive in her public improve-
ments, so pre-eminently flattering in her public school system^
so comprehensive and liberal in her benevolent and reformatory
enterprises and withal so loyal in her attachment to the Federal
constitution.

As important as is the place she now holds in the nation,
as lofty as soars her youthful fame, if the future but unfolds
the promising present she is only in the bud of her greatness,
power and wealth and has never beheld the acme of her possi-
bilities. She is checked for higher purpose and greater attain-
ments. She holds the essential elements of a durable prosperity
and is not going to stand still, neither is she willing to loiter

IOWA LEAVES. 449

on the roadside — to the front. She is rising on the wings of
development; she is on board the excelsior train; the steam is
already up; the sound of the whistle has gone forth; the wheels
are in motion, and no talk, no rivalry, no counter interest can
keep her back.

Iowa is a state of the first magnitude and capable of sus-
taining a population of the most dense order. In extent of
territor}^ she is an empire b}' herself, containing 50,914 square
miles, comprising an uncommon share of choice grazing and
plow land. She presents a wide range of latitude, varying con-
siderably in climate, thus opening an ample as well as inviting
field in which the overflowing fullness of other communities
may suit themselves.

Her citizens will never be restricted to any one branch of
business from necessity. Nature has lavishly bestowed upon
her the elements of a happily diversified industry suited to the
wants of a widespread people. Behold her coal fields and
gypsum beds, her lime, her building stone, etc., her water
power and great agricultural possibilities. To those in search
of new homes let me say, come to Iowa; come where the
manly industries are respected; come where agriculture, manu-
factories and mechanics are fundamenal sources of true personal
independence and which confer grandeur, power and wealth
upon nations are not held in reproach by a perverted public
sentiment and help to keep them respected; come to its broad
expanse and reap the fruit of its generous soil.

If you seek prosperity; if you seek enjo3'ment; if you
would meet with a cordial welcome, come. The culture,
wealth and enterprise of the world are now concentrating near
our parallel of latitude, proving that cotton is no longer king,
nor the stately forests of the north alone proffer inviting homes

' 450 IOWA LEAVES.

for the enterprising, cultivated race. With such convictions,
most heartily do we invite millions to these privileges, to the
goodly land which remaineth to be possessed.

We owe much to the " fatherland " and to the older states.
Why? Because the graves of our forefathers are there. Those
low, rude school-houses (we fear, too, the high torturing backs),
the old apple orchard with the sweet associations of good cider,
perchance the smarting ones of the sprouts. Those very glare
old hillsides where so many pleasant moonlit evenings were
passed and the groves which bent over us as blessings, with
joys or sighs, responsive to the emotions of the heart. The
nuptial ceremonies, kitchen plays, hearthstone stories and hal-
lowed church services carry us back to grave old scenes and
associations which link us in affectionate remembrance to the
past as the friend of our youth and now a partial education,
but more honored in stimulating invention and enterprise
than in molding the mind to contentment without improvement.

No ragged mountain ranges north or south, east or west,
present impassable barriers or necessitate circuitous, out of-the-
way routes for artificial channels of trade, or cut off intercourse
with neighboring states and interrupt direct relations with the
choicest markets in the world.

Her comparative proximity to the Pacific states is most
favorable and by reason of her great network of raih^oads com-
mercial relations have been inaugurated and it has become one
of the most accessible states in the Union. Being the nearest
extensive agricultural district east of the Rocky mountains,
evidently it will become the chief furnishing state and have the
mining trade of the west. It is fast having the lumber trade
of the pine regions on the north, the plantation trade of the
sunny south and the present eastern market all in easy reach.

IOWA LEAVES. 451

Who that has studied the geography of our country and
observes the spread of population and the progress of railroads
can fail to see in Iowa's locality the future business and political
center of that great nation which is giving home, security and
freedom to over 60,000,000 people, acknowledging the same
laws and having the same banner.

It belonoj-s to an as^ricultural reo^ion that is fast beckoninor
the seat of empire westward; from the rising toward the setting
sun; from the Atlantic toward the Pacific ocean, and that holds
not only present but increasing and enduring advantages and
allurements. It is on the great main line from the emporium
of the populous east to the wilderness and gold region of the
distant west. It has been destined to furnish the right of way
across its vast territory and the main trunk of our country's
immense railway system witnesses the passage of common
travel and extensive commerce between the most important
portions of the civilized world.

In this great central locality and desirable spot, in the
great valley and near the Father of Waters, the seat of empire
takes its way and the chaos of a mighty world is rounding
into form.

Internet Archive Audio

Featured

Top

Images

Featured

Top

Software

Featured

Top

Books

Featured

Top

Video

Featured

Top

Mobile Apps

Browser Extensions

Archive-It Subscription

Save Page Now

Full text of "Iowa leaves, six chapters"

See other formats