WESSOR C,A, KOFOID
_d*j|yfl^v
PITCAIKN :
THE ISLAND, THE PEOPLE, AND THE PASTOE.
TO WHICH IS ADDED
A SHOUT NOTICE OF THE ORIGINAL SETTLEMENT
AND PRESENT CONDITION OF
NORFOLK ISLAND.
BY THE LATE
REV. THOS. BOYLES MURRAY, M.A. F.S.A.
\,v
RECTOR OF ST. DUNSTAN-IN-THE-EAST, LONDON,
AND PREBENDARY OF ST. PAUL'S.
PUBLISHED UNDER THE DIRECTION OF
THE COMMITTEE OF GENERAL LITERATURE AND EDUCATION
APPOINTED BY THE SOCD3TY FOR PROMOTING
CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE.
LONDON :
SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING- CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE.
SOLD AT THE DEPOSITORIES :
77 GREAT QUEEN STREET, LINCOLN'S-INN FIELDS;
4 ROYAL EXCHANGE ; 48 PICCADILLY ;
AND BY ALL BOOKSELLERS
New York: Pott, Young, & Co.
GIFT OF
ESSoa C.A, KOFOID
FEINTED
For the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge
AT THE CLAKEKDO.N PRESS,
OXFORD.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
PREFACE t ...... 8 , v
CHAPTER I.
THE BOUNTY THE OBJECT OF THE VOYAGE TO OTAIIEITE BREAD-
FRUIT ARRIVAL AT OTAHEITE DEATH OF THE SURGEON DELAY
AT OTAHEITE ENTERTAINMENTS ON BOARD THE BOUNTY
TINAH AND I DDE AH DESERTION AND ROBBERY BY THREE SEA-
MEN OF THE BOUNTY FAREWELL TO OTAHEITE HUAHEINE,
WYTOOTACKEE, AND ANNAMOOKA ARRIVAL OFF TOFOA MUTINY
IN THE SHIP LIST OF MEN LEFT IN THE BOUNTY LIST OF MEN
IN THE LAUNCH . . , f . 15
CHAPTER II.
SCENE ON THE ISLAND OF TOFOA MURDER OF JOHN NORTON
SUFFERINGS OF BLIGH AND HIS CREW FEEJEE ISLANDS CANNI-
BALISM BLIGH'S LOG-BOOK MISERABLE ALLOWANCE PRAYERS
IN THE LAUNCH ENDEAVOUR STRAITS TIMOR ARRIVAL AT
COUPANG BLIGH'S RETURN TO ENGLAND MEMOIR OF BLIGH 36
CHAPTER III.
LEGAL PROCEEDINGS IN CONSEQUENCE OF THE MUTINY TOUBOUI
CHURCHILL AND THOMPSON WRECK OF THE PANDORA PETER
HEYWOOD AND HIS FAMILY LETTERS FROM KESSY HEYWOOD
AND OTHERS TRIAL OF THE MUTINEERS THE KING'S PARDON
HONOURABLE CAREER OF CAPTAIN HEYWOOD HIS DEATH
LINES BY ONE OF HIS CREW 69
CHAPTER IV.
CHRISTIAN AND HIS PARTY PITCAIRN'S ISLAND FOLGER's AC-
COUNT LANDING OF NINE MUTINEERS AND OF OTAHEITANS AT
PITCAIRN DREADFUL DEATHS OF CHRISTIAN AND OTHERS IN-
TOLERABLE STATE OF SOCIETY AT PITCAIRN INTEMPERANCE
JOHN ADAMS'S DREAMS HIS REPENTANCE AND REFORMATION
HIS SERVICES IN THE CAUSE OF RELIGION AND MORALITY IN THE
ISLAND . 103
11 CONTENTS.
CHAPTER V.
THE CHRONOMETER OF THE BOUNTY DESCRIPTION OF THE STATK
OF PITCAIRN IN 1814, AND SUBSEQUENT YEARS ACCOUNT GIVEN
BY SIR THOMAS STAINES BY ADMIRAL BEECHEY EMIGRATION TO
OTAHEITE IN 1831 QUEEN POMARE HER LETTER TO QUEEN
VICTORIA 125
CHAPTER VI.
RETURN OF THE PITCAIRN EMIGRANTS TO THEIR ISLAND IN 1833
POPULATION OF PITCAIRN THE QUEEN'S BIRTHDAY ACCIDENT
ON THE ISLAND LOYALTY OF THE ISLANDERS THEIR RULES AND
CUSTOMS THE ISLANDERS* DAY AT PITCAIRN RECEPTION OF
VESSELS TOUCHING AT THE ISLAND HOSPITALITY TO STRANGERS
MR. CARLETON'S MUSICAL CLASS 1.45
CHAPTER VH.
MR. NOBBS SOME ACCOUNT OF HIS LIFE HIS ESCAPE FROM THE
HANDS OF THE PIRATICAL SOLDIER, BENEVIDEIS HIS ARRIVAL
AT PITCAIRN MR. HILL EXTRACTS FROM HIS LETTER TESTI-
MONIES TO THE CHARACTER AND SERVICES OF MR. NOBBS PRO-
GRESS OF RELIGION IN PITCAIRN*S ISLAND REUBEN NOBBS TES-
TIMONIES FROM THE REV. WM. ARMSTRONG AND CAPTAIN WORTH
LETTERS FROM THE ISLANDERS STATE OF THE SCHOOL . . 1?0
CHAPTER VIII.
INVITATION OF THE FEMALES OF PITCAIRN TO ADMIRAL MORESBY
VISIT OF AN ENGLISH ADMIRAL TO THE ISLAND HIS LETTERS,
AND THOSE OF HIS SECRETARY AND CHAPLAIN THE ISLANDERS
IN 1852 MR. NOBBS'S ARRIVAL AT VALPARAISO MR. NOBBS IN
ENGLAND HIS ORDINATION AS DEACON AND PRIEST . . 203
CHAPTER IX.
THE REV. G. H. NOBBS IN ENGLAND HIS RECEPTION BY THE QUEEN
AND PRINCE ALBERT MR. NOBBS'S RETURN HOMEWARD BY NAVY
BAY AND THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA THE LATE BISHOP OF SYDNEY
MR. NOBBS AT VALPARAISO EFFORTS IN ENGLAND FOR THE
ISLANDERS INTELLIGENCE FROM PITCAIRN THE FIRST COMMU-
NION ON THE ISLAND MR. NOBBS'S ARRIVAL AT PITCAIRN PIT-
CAIRN IN 1853 AID RENDERED TO THE ISLANDERS . . 210.
CONTENTS. Hi
CHAPTER X.
SOME ACCOUNT OF THE LAWS OF PITCAIRN THE ISLAND REGISTER
REUBEN AND FRANCIS NOBBS REUBEN'S LETTER TO ADMIRAL
MORESBY REUBEN'S LAST ILLNESS HIS DEATH .... 252
CHAPTER XL
EXAMPLE OF REUBEN NOBBS SHADOWS OF COMING EVENTS THE
LATE B. TOUP NICOLAS, ESQ., CONSUL AT RAIATEA HIS JOURNAL
OF A WEEK AT PITCAIRN IN ] 853 LETTERS FROM THE REV. G. H.
NOBBS LETTER FROM MRS. NOBBS CAPTAIN DENHAM's SURVEY OF
NORFOLK ISLAND CAPTAIN FREMANTLE*S VISIT TO PITCAIRN
HURRICANE ON THE PACIFIC EXPECTATIONS OF A REMOVAL TO
NORFOLK ISLAND 289
CHAPTER XII.
SERMONS PREACHED BY MR. NOBBS ON PITCAIRN*S ISLAND THE
HARP OF PITCAIRN EVENING HYMN THE ANGELS* LAMENT
I BELIEVE, I BELIEVE FENUA MAITAI NATIONAL SONG SONG
OF THE PITCAIRN ISLANDERS THE CORALLINE ISLES LIST OF
SHIPS SIGNALS PITCAIRN A WILDERNESS 325
CHAPTER XIII.
DEPARTURE OF THE PITCAIRN COMMUNITY FROM PITCAIRN TO
NORFOLK ISLAND NORFOLK ISLAND, ITS ORIGINAL SETTLEMENT,
AND SUBSEQUENT OCCUPATION VISIT OF BISHOP BROUGHTON
CAPTAIN DENHAM'S DESPATCH LETTERS FROM ARTHUR QUINTAL
AND REV. G. H. NOBBS SIR WM. DENISON'S COMMUNICATION
EXPENSE OF REMOVAL ACCOUNTS FROM HOBART TOWN . 362
CHAPTER XIV.
LETTER FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS RESPECTING THE VOYAGE TO
NORFOLK ISLAND, AND SETTLEMENT OF THE PITCAIRN COMMUNITY
THERE THE BISHOP OF NEW ZEALAND CONFIRMATION ADDRESS
TO HER MAJESTY FROM THE PITCAIRN FUND COMMITTEE VISIT
OF SIR WM.DENISON PRESENT STATE OF THE ISLANDERS THEIR
PROSPECTS CENSUS CONCLUSION 381
ILLUSTRATIONS.
PORTRAIT OF JOHN ADAMS To face Title
THE BREAD-FRUIT TREE . p. 16
THE BREAD-FRUIT 20
PORTRAIT or CAPTAIN BLIGII 36
BLIGH'S GOURD, CUP, BULLET WEIGHT, &c. ..... 44
TOMB OF ADMIRAL BLIGH 68
BOUNTY BAY, AND VILLAGE OF PITCAIRN 104
CORAL ISLAND 115
PORTRAIT OF THURSDAY OCTOBER CHRISTIAN 128
JOHN ADAMS'S HOUSE 134
PORTRAIT OF THE KEY. G. H. KOBBS 170
CHURCH AND SCHOOL HOUSE 200
CHART OF PORTION OF THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC .... 221
GRAVE OF JOHN ADAMS 261
ISLAND or JUAN FERNANDEZ 324
FAC-SIMILE OF JOHN ADAMS'S HANDWRITING 333
LOOK-OUT RIDGE, PITCAIRN 354
VIEW ON NORFOLK ISLAND 384
PBEEACE
TO THE TWELFTH EDITION.
THE first Edition of " Pitcairn ; the Island, the
People, and the Pastor/' appeared in the spring
of 1853. Between that date and the present,
about thirty thousand copies have been printed.
The subject was one of a kind at once to
command a large circulation of the work : and
circumstances have continued to arise, in con-
nexion with the Island, which have greatly
tended to sustain the interest felt in the place
and its inhabitants.
The arrival of their Pastor in England, his
admission, whilst here, to holy orders, and his
interview with the Queen and the Prince Con-
sort, were pleasing and important occurrences,
when viewed in reference to the original history
of Pitcairn. Still more eventful days, however,
were in store for the people. The provision
made by the British Government for their
transfer to Norfolk Island, and the further
measures recently adopted for their benefit by
VI PREFACE.
Sir William Denison, the governor, have brought
to our minds the progress and prospects of this
remarkable community in a striking manner.
The following letter, addressed to the author
of this work by his friend, Vice-Admiral Sir
Fairfax Moresby, K.C.B., late Commander-in-
Chief of Her Majesty's Naval Forces in the
Southern Pacific, will explain the occasion of
Mr. Nobbs's visit to England in the autumn of
1852 :-
" VALPARAISO, August, 1852.
" This will be conveyed to you by Mr. Nobbs,
the Pastor of Pitcairn's Island. It was not until
after our departure from thence, that I found he
had received a letter from you, dated the 29th of
November, 1850, which, I confess, has relieved
me of much anxiety on the responsibility I have
taken upon myself of sending Mr. Nobbs to
England.
" I can most conscientiously assure you, that
the state of society at Pitcairn has not been too
highly described. The Bible and Prayer-book
of the Bounty, as handed to Mr. Nobbs from
John Adams, have been, and continue to be, the
objects of their study, and have enabled them
to withstand the innovations that too fervid
PREFACE. Vll
imaginations, in America and elsewhere, have
thought, by their correspondence, it was their
calling to effect.
" The affectionate attachment of the islanders
to Mr. Nobbs (who, in the triple capacity of
pastor, surgeon, and teacher, is as necessary to
them as their food) created some little difficulty
in his leaving; but it was overcome by the
arrangement made for leaving with them our
chaplain, Mr. Holman, and by my assurance
that I would return their pastor to them with
as little delay as possible. I hope I am not
wrong in supposing that if Mr, Nobbs is found
worthy of being ordained, only a short time will
be required to prepare.
" I think I did not mention to the Bishop of
London the way in which Mr. Nobbs reached
Pitcairn. It disproves the malignant stories
which have been circulated. And the success
of twenty-four years' labour is an abundant
proof, that, under the blessing of God, he has
educated in the principles of our Church, as one
united family, a community whose simple and
virtuous lives are so pre-eminent.
" In 1826 he left England for the purpose of
going to Pitcairn. For nearly two years, by
VU1 PREFACE.
the way of the Cape of Good Hope, India, and
Australia, he sought a passage. Finally, at
Callao, in Peru, he met the owner of a launch,
who, on the condition of Mr. Nobbs's fitting
her out, agreed to accompany him to Pitcairn.
Mr. Nobbs fitted her himself, and expended what
little money he possessed. The owner was in
ill-health : nevertheless these two left Callao by
themselves, on a voyage of 3,500 miles, which
they accomplished in forty-two days. The
owner died soon after their arrival. The launch
was hauled on shore, and her materials used to
build a house for Mr. Nobbs.
"I was four days on shore at Pitcairn, in
constant discourse with the islanders. I am
convinced that the time and the opportunity
have arrived for giving them a minister of our
Church ; and that Mr. Nobbs is the person they
wish, and the person at present best adapted for
them. 1 ''
Amidst all the attentions which Mr. Nobbs
received during his short sojourn in England,
the thought of his flock at Pitcairn was evi-
dently uppermost in his mind. Those who felt
an interest in him, having heard of the virtuous
PREFACE. Ix
habits and happy lives of the people, were less
surprised at his wish to return to them as soon
as his errand should be accomplished.
The particulars of his return will be found
stated in the body of this work. His life and
conversation among the islanders, since his
appointment as their Chaplain, and a Missionary
of the Society for the Propagation of the
Gospel, are sufficiently shown in the following
extract of a letter from a leading member of the
community, who was the chief magistrate of
Pitcaim in 1854. This worthy and intelligent
person is a grandson of the original John
Adams.
"PITCAIRN'S ISLAND, Oct. 1854.
" Had it not been for the many valuable
lessons we have learned, from the liberal supply
of books which we from time to time have
received from the Society to which you have the
honour to belong, 1 doubt if the present state of
education now existing among us would have
been attained. You will doubtless be rejoiced
to learn, that your Society has been the means
of diffusing much Christian Knowledge among
us, and that we are not insensible of the immense
debt of love and gratitude we owe you.
X PREFACE.
" The ordination of our Teacher is a blessing
which we highly appreciate; and it will, with
the blessing of Almighty God, be productive of
much good.
" Divine Service is performed every Wednes-
day evening ; and we partake of the Holy Sacra-
ment of the Lord's Supper on the first Sunday
of each month ; privileges for which we cannot
be too thankful.
" You will doubtless be glad to learn that
the Rev. G. H. Nobbs has, since his ordination,
acted in a manner highly honourable to his
high calling and profession. His whole aim
seems to be directed to one object, that of doing
good to his flock, both in spiritual and temporal
things.
" Please to accept of my kindest love and
regards ; and believe me to be,
" Yours ever gratefully,
" JOHN ADAMS.
"To tfie REV. T. B. MURRAY, M.A."
The mention of the name of John Adams
reminds us of the origin of the settlement at
Pitcairn's Island. Without further anticipa-
ting, therefore, the eventful history which is
connected with the place, and which proves that
PREFACE. xi
real life may be more romantic than fiction, the
author will make it his business to give an
account of the island, and of the troublous
iimes which preceded the pure and peaceable
condition of its inhabitants.
For some years the population of the island
had gone on increasing at an advanced ratio,
whilst the ground available for produce had
occasionally shown symptoms of failure in the
supply of the requisite articles of food. Under
the pressure of a certain amount of want and
apprehension, the inhabitants, in May, 1853,
unanimously solicited the aid of the British
Government, in transferring them to a more
roomy place; and they themselves suggested
Norfolk Island as a desirable spot for their
future residence. That beautiful island, which
has been sometimes called the garden of the
world, has ceased to be a penal settlement ; and
there are no other settlers.
The Government determined, in the year
1853, to provide for the transfer of the inha-
bitants of Pitcairn, or of as many of them as
might consent, to Norfolk Island. The execu-
tion of the measure was confided to Sir
William Denison, the Gfovernor of New South
Xii PREFACE.
Wales, who, as Lieutenant-Govern or of Van
Diemen's Land, had Norfolk Island for several
years under his superintendence. It would not
be just to omit to mention the forethought,
discrimination, and zeal manifested by His Ex-
cellency in making the requisite arrangements
for the task.
The plans of the Government were not
matured until the spring of 1856. The vessel
engaged for carrying the transfer into effect, was
the Morayshire, chartered at Sydney. During
the whole of the passage, which commenced
on May 3, 1856, the real interests and per-
sonal comforts of the people, young and old,
of both sexes, were consulted in the most tender
and scrupulous manner in all respects. Acting
Lieutenant G. W, Gregorie, of the Juno, per-
formed his part of Superintendent of this service
in a manner which amply justified the choice of
so competent and humane an officer. In the
removal of 194 persons in an emigrant ship, on
a voyage of upwards of three thousand miles,
occupying thirty-five days, it does not appear
too much to say, that no one could have desired
a better kind of treatment for members of his
own family*
PREFACE. Xlll
The conduct of the Eev. G. H. Nobbs
throughout the whole of this transaction, con-
firmed the feelings of confidence and esteem
which he had earned by more than a quarter of
a century's faithful and efficient service amongst
his charge at Pitcairn. He not only attended to
the religious wants of the voyagers^but all the
medical duties likewise devolved upon him.
These were of no light nor ordinary kind ; so
severely did many suffer from continued sea-
sickness.
All were landed securely at their new abode,
on the 8th of June, 1856 ; a grand result, which
was much facilitated by Captain Denham, E.N.,
and the officers and men of H.M. Surveying
ship Herald; that vessel having been con-
siderately detained some days by Captain
Denham on the spot, for the purpose of giving
assistance.
The first act of the Community, on assem-
bling after the landing, was to offer a devout
Thanksgiving to God, for their prosperous
voyage, and for His many mercies.
Sir Wm. Denison has written to the author,
saying, that henceforward the Islanders will not
require any charitable assistance. " They are
XIV PREFACE,
now/* said he, " occupants of a most fertile
island, with stock of all kinds, with tools and
appliances for all their immediate wants." His"
Excellency stated his intention of exercising a
careful supervision over the people who may be
permitted to land and reside among the new
inhabitants.
He has since fulfilled a promise which he
had made, of becoming personally acquainted
with them. It will be seen in the latter pages
of the present Edition, that he availed himself
of the occasion to afford them good counsel
and advice ; and it may be hoped that a visit
so kind and so paternal will have proved of
much benefit as well as comfort to the flock oa
Norfolk Island.
Although the presence of England's worst
exiles for several years gave a bad name to that
beautiful place, there is no reason why it should
not now become associated in the mind with
whatsoever things are true, honest, just, pure,
lovely, and of good report.
LONDON, July, 1860.
PITCAIRN,
CHAPTER I.
TH3 BOUNTY THE OBJECT OF THE VOYAGE TO OTAHEITE
BREAD-FRUIT ARRIVAL AT OTAHEITE DEATH OF THE
SURGEON DELAY AT OTAHEITE ENTERTAINMENTS ON
BOARD THE BOUNTY T1NAH AND IDDEAH DESERTION AND
ROBBERY BY THREE SEAMEN OF THE BOUNTY FAREWELL
TO OTAHEITE HUAHEINE, WYTOOTACKEE, AND ANNAMOOKA
ARRIVAL OFF TOFOA MUTINY IN THE SHIP LIST OF MEN
LEFT IN THE BOUNTY LIST OF MEN IN THE LAUNCH.
IN the year 1787, in the reign of King George
the Third, his Majesty's armed ship, Bounty,
was fitted out by the English government, for
the purpose of proceeding to the South Sea
Islands for plants of the "bread-fruit tree, which
afforded to the inhabitants of those islands, and
of Otaheite especially, the greater portion of
their food. This step was taken in consequence
of representations made to the King, by mer-
chants and planters interested in his Majesty's
West Indian possessions.
Lieutenant William Bligh, to whom the com-
mand of the vessel had been given, was then
about thirty-three years of age. He had been
sailing-master under Captain Cook, having been
for four years with that great navigator in the
Resolution. He was appointed in August, 1787,
both commander and purser of the Bounty, which
16 BREAD-FRUIT.
was stored and victualled for eighteen months.
Besides other provision, he had supplies of port-
able soup, essence of meat, sour krout, and dried
malt ; to which were added articles of iron and
steel, trinkets, beads, and looking-glasses, for
traffic with the natives. The plants, the best
he could obtain, he was to convey to the West
Indies, to attempt their growth for the sup-
port of the slave population; it having been
the opinion of Sir Joseph Banks, who had visited
Otaheite with Captain Cook in 1769, that the
bread-fruit tree might be successfully cultivated
in those colonies.
The ship was fitted out in dock at Deptford
under Bligh's superintendence. The great cabin
was devoted to the preservation of the plants. A
false floor, cut full of holes, contained the garden-
pots, in which the plants were to be placed.
The bread-fruit grows on a tree of about
the size of a common oak, which, towards the
top, divides into large and spreading branches.
The leaves are of a very deep green. The bread-
fruit springs from twigs to the size of a penny loaf.
It has a thick rind ; and before becoming ripe,
it is gathered, and baked in an oven. The inner
part is like the crumb of wheaten bread, and
found to be very nutritive. Captain William
Dampier,* who sailed round the world in the
year 1688, thus described the bread-fruit : " It
* Dampier was an old English navigator, born in 1652.
His name is associated with that of the famous Alexander
Selkirk, who sailed in company with him. Selkirk's won-
derful adventures suggested to De Foe the idea of hi inimit-
able Robinson Crusoe, and to Cowper the beautiful verses
beginning, "I am monarch of all I survey."
THE BREAD-FRUIT TREE.
THE BREADTREE, which, without the ploughshare, yields
The unreap'd harvest of unfurrow'd fields,
And bakes its unadulterated loaves
Without a furnace, in unpurchased groves,
And flings off famine from its fertile breast,
A priceless market for the gathering guest.
THE VOYAGE. 17
has neither seed nor stone in the inside ; but all
is of pure substance like bread. It must be
eaten new ; for if it is kept above twenty- four
hours, it grows harsh and choky; but it is
very pleasant before it is too stale. This fruit
lasts in season eight months in the year, during
which the natives of Guam eat no other sort of
food of bread kind. I did never see of this fruit
anywhere but here. The natives told us that
there is plenty of this fruit growing on the rest
of the Ladrone Islands ; and I did never hear of
it anywhere else."
The ship Bounty, of 215 tons burden, left
Spithead on the 23rd of December, 1787, carrying
forty-six persons, including the commander, and
a botanist, and gardener. They started with a
fresh breeze, easterly, which moderated on the
25th, so that they were able to keep their Christ-
mas with cheerfulness; but it increased to such
a heavy gale by the 27th, that the vessel suffered
damage; a sea which she shipped having broken
some of the planks of the boats, and an azimuth
compass. It also wetted and injured a few bags
of bread in the cabin, which, when, the weather
improved, were got up and dried. The voyage
was attended with many circumstances of diffi-
culty and danger. The few hours of respite from
the hard westerly winds that blew, were, accord-
ing to a fine expression in Lord Anson's voyage,
"like the elements drawing breath,, to return
upon them with redoubled violence."
During the voyage Bligh lost an able seaman,
James Valentine. This man's case appears to
ve been cruelly mismanaged by the surgeon,
.,
18 ARRIVAL AT OTiHEITE.
who was an indolent and intemperate man.
Valentine had been one of the most robust people
on board, but, for some slight indisposition, was
bled in the arm. Some time afterwards, the arm
became painful and inflamed. The inflammation
increased ; a hollow cough and extreme diffi-
culty of breathing came on, and the poor fellow's
death soon put a period to his sufferings.
The simple and unaffected manner in which
Bligh relates the events of his voyage, and the
difficulties through which he passed, is one of
the chief charms of his narrative. The original
instructions from the Admiralty, dated Novem-
ber the 20th, 1787, were, that he should proceed
round Cape Horn. They were very minute,
and were signified to the Commissioners by
Lord Sydney, one of his Majesty's principal
Secretaries of State.* Owing, however, to the
advanced season of the year, and the delay
caused by contrary winds, he had applied for,
and obtained, discretional orders to go round the
Cape of Good Hope to Otaheite. Having tried
in vain, in a tempestuous ocean, to go by Cape
Horn, he took his course towards the island of
Tristan d'Acunha, and at last made a passage
round the Cape of Good Hope. Having visited
Cape Town, and afterwards Van Diemen's Land,
and passed near New Zealand, the ship at
length arrived at Otaheite, anchoring in Mata-
vai Bay at 10 in the forenoon of the 26th of
October, 1788.
* The city of Sydney, N. S. Wales, was named from this
nobleman, the first Viscount Sydney, Thomas Townshend,
Esq. He died A.D. 18CO.
"
RULES ON ARRIVING. 19
The voyagers, forty-five in number, were
received with kindness by the natives, who asked
particularly after Captain Cook, whom they
called Toot: they also inquired about Sir Joseph
Banks, and others who had visited them some
years before. But their first inquiries of the
voyagers were, whether they were Tyos, which
signifies, friends, and whether they came from
Pretanie (Britain), or from Lima. Having
become satisfied on these two important points,
they instantly covered the deck in such num-
bers, that Bligh, moving about among the
crowd, could scarcely find his own people.
He had prepared and written down certain
rules to be observed by all his men for facilitat-
ing a trade for provisions, and establishing a
good understanding with the natives. Amongst
other regulations it was ordered, that at the
Society of Friendly Islands no person whatever
should intimate that Captain Cook had been
killed by natives, or indeed that he was dead.*
No one was to give the least hint that the party
had come for the purpose of getting the bread-
fruit plant, until Bligh should think proper to
make known his plan to the chiefs. Every one
was to study to gain the esteem and goodwill
of the islanders. No one was ever to fire but
in defence of his life. It was against the rules
to purchase curiosities or provisions, except by
.pplication to a duly-appointed purveyor.
Immediately on anchoring, these orders, signed
* Cook had been murdered by the natives of Owhyhee in
February, 1779. The above order for the suppression of
" uth, involving a kind of falsehood, may have encouraged in
*me of the men deceit in other things.
:
20 DEATH OF THE SUEGEON.
by Bligh, and dated October 25, 1788, were
stuck up on the main-mast. With respect to
curiosities, it appears that none struck the sea-
men so forcibly as roasted pigs and fine bread-
fruits; and these came in abundance.
In about six weeks after their arrival, the
number of the party was reduced to forty-four,
by the death of the surgeon, who could have
been but of little use to them, as he had suffered
from a long illness, the effect of his intemperance
and indolence. During the whole course of the
voyage he had scarcely ever stirred out of his
cabin, and had never been prevailed upon to
take half-a-dozen turns upon deck at a time.
Bligh wished that the body should be buried on
shore ; and the natives were not only ready to
meet his wishes, but on the day following the
surgeon's death, they were found digging the
grave. Without any communication with the
ship, these kind people had marked out the
grave, east and west. Tinah, a friendly chief,
asked Bligh if they were doing right, adding,
" There the sun rises, and there it sets." It was
thought that they had learned the practice of
burying east and west from the Spaniards; a
captain of a Spanish vessel having been buried
at Oeitepeha in 1774.
Bligh, in his " Voyage to the South Seas,"
published a plan and section of the Bounty,
showing the manner of fitting and stowing the
pots for receiving the bread-fruit plants. Of
these plants he had 1,105, carefully selected.
He had also procured a number of other plants
and choice fruits, which his friend, Sir Joseph
THE BREAD-FRUIT.
ENTERTAINMENTS TO THE NATIVES. 21
Banks, had recommended him to obtain. In-
deed, the time and attention which he had
bestowed on the main object of his undertaking
may be mentioned as accounting in some de-
gree for what might else appear to have been a
needless delay at Otaheite. It is probable that
he would have been spared much trouble and
misery had he quitted Otaheite sooner ; but he
had been induced, partly by the reason above
given, and partly by the kind persuasions of
the chiefs, to defer his departure.
The events which were now impending over
Bligh, contrast darkly with the scenes of cheer-
fulness, and gaiety, and full success, which had
hitherto marked his enterprise. On one occa-
sion, (Nov. 13, 1788,) he had a large company
to dine with him on board. Some of his Ota-
heitan visitors had observed, that they always
drank his Britannic Majesty's health as soon
as the cloth was removed. " But, n says Bligh,
in his own simple style, " they were become, by
this time, so fond of wine, that they would fre-
quently remind me of the health in the middle
of dinner, by calling out, * King George, Earee
no Pretanie ! ' (the chief of Britain,) and would
banter me, if the glass was not filled to the brim.
Nothing could exceed the mirth and jollity of
these people when they met on board."
Among the company on all these occasions
was the sociable chief, Tinah, of whom more
will be said presently. He was fed at dinner
by one of his attendants, who sat by him for
that purpose; this being a custom among the
superior chiefs. " I must do him the justice, 11
22 AMUSEMENTS ON BOARD THE BOUNTY.
said Bligh, " to say that he kept his attendant
constantly employed. There was, indeed, little
reason to complain of want of appetite in any
of my guests. As the women are not allowed
to eat in presence of the men, his wife, Iddeah,
dined with some of her companions about an
hour afterwards, in private, except that her
husband favoured them with his company, and
seemed to have entirely forgotten that he had
already dined! "
The natives were, one day, much delighted
with the spectacle of a female figure, which was
gaily dressed up, and carried about the deck of
the Bounty. This object they at first mistook
for a living person ; but it consisted of a stick
covered with a quantity of cloth, surmounted by
a painted head, which had formerly been in a
hairdresser's shop-window, having been brought
by the ship's barber from London.
Bligh's description of this scene is as good as
a picture : " It having been reported to the
natives that we had an English woman on board,
the quarter-deck was cleared of the crowd, that
she might make her appearance. Being handed
up the ladder, and carried to the after part of
the deck, there was a general shout of 'Huaheine
no Pretanie myty ! ' Huaheine signifies woman,
and myty, good. Many of them thought it was
living, and asked if it was my wife. One old
woman ran with presents of cloth and bread-
fruit, and laid them at her feet. At last they
found out the cheat, but continued all delighted
with it, except the old lady, who felt herself
mortified, and took back her presents, for which
DESEKTION OF THEEE SEAMEN. 23
she was laughed at exceedingly. Tinah and all
the other chiefs enjoyed the joke; and after
making many inquiries about the British women,
they strictly enjoined me, when I came again,
to bring a ship full of them."
The people had also formed a vast idea of
the beauty of English ladies from the head of
the ship in their harbour. This was a striking
wood-carving of a large-featured female, the
highly-coloured figure-head of the Bounty, which
they greatly admired.
During the interchange of friendly civilities
and hospitable receptions, both on board the
Bounty and on shore, some thefts were com-
mitted by the natives, owing to the negligence of
the Bounty's crew. Soon afterwards, Churchill,
Muspratt, and Millward, three of the men be-
longing to the ship, deserted, carrying with
them the small cutter, a chest of fire-arms, and
ammunition. They were quickly taken by Bligh,
with the help of some of the natives, at a neigh-
bouring island, Tettaha. These three deserters
wrote a letter of humble acknowledgment to
their captain, for his clemency in not bringing
them to trial. They promised good conduct in
future : but he was deceived by their fair profes-
sions ; and they were soon afterwards mutineers
of a more daring order. In their original de-
sertion and robbery, they had been guilty of
an atrocious crime ; and their case affords one,
among many instances which might be quoted,
of the danger of gassing over the first outbreak
of a rebellious spirit. Like a fire, if not put out
at once, it will be sure to spread. The deserters'
24 PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING.
letter to Bligh, which has been preserved,
was dated on board the Bounty, at Otaheite,
January 26th, 1789, and ran as follows :
" SIR, We should think ourselves wholly
inexcusable if we omitted taking the earliest
opportunity of returning our' thanks for your
goodness in delivering us from a trial by Court
Martial, the fatal consequences of which are
obvious : and although we cannot possibly lay
claim to so great a favour, yet we humbly beg
you will be pleased to remit any further punish-
ment; and we trust our future conduct will fully
demonstrate our deep sense of your clemency,
and our steadfast resolution to behave better
hereafter. We are, Sir, your most obedient and
most humble servants, C. CHURCHILL, WM.
MUSPRATT, JOHN MILLWARD."
Three months had now rolled away, when,
early in the morning of February the 6th, the
captain discovered that the cable by which the
ship rode had been cut close to the water's edge,
so as to be very nearly divided. The offence
was first charged upon some of the natives ; but
it afterwards occurred to Bligh, that this scan-
dalous attempt to cut the ship adrift was most
probably made by some of his own people, who,
if she had been driven on shore, might have
succeeded in remaining at Otaheite.
The reader will observe that the word Otaheite
is here used as spelt by Captain Cook. It is
now often printed, Tahiti.
The time was at length come for Bligh and his
companions, with heavy hearts, to bid farewell
to charming Otaheite. The ship was crowded
TINAH AND IDDEAH. 25
by the natives, many of whom .requested to be
allowed to accompany the party. Cocoa-nuts,
plantains, bread-.fruits, hogs, and goats, were
then brought as presents. The chief, Tinah, who
was six feet four inches high, and stout in pro-
portion, though without the courage of a warrior,
had begged hard to be allowed to leave the island
in the Bounty, being sure that King George,
whom he wished much to see, would be glad to
see him, and his wife Iddeah. She also was
much above the common size, and had learnt to
load and fire a musket with much dexterity.
Bligh was obliged to decline, as politely as he
could, the honour of conveying this remarkable
couple to England. On going away, he offered
a pair of pistols to Tinah, who at once re-
signed them into other hands, remarking that
Iddeah, his wife, would fight with one, and his
friend Oedidee, a chief, with the other. Poor
Tinah, in transferring the pistols, expressed his
fear of being attacked by his enemies, as soon as
the Bounty should leave Otaheite ; and when he
found it impossible to prevail on his Tyo myty
(good friend) Bligh to let him go, he busied
himself in getting two Parais, or mourning
dresses, made, as a present to King George.
When he presented the Parais, he could not
refrain from shedding tears. " At the time,"
says Bligh, " that Tinah first mentioned to me
his desire of visiting England, I asked what
account I could give to his friends if he should
not live to return; to which he replied, that
I must cut off his hair, and carry it to them, and
they would be perfectly satisfied."
26 DEPAKTUKE OF THE BOUNTY.
On the evening of the day before the de-
parture of the Bounty, there was none of the
dancing or mirth, to which the people had been
accustomed, on the beach. Before this, the part
of the beach nearest the ship had been the
general place of resort towards the close of the
day. An hour before sunset, the inhabitants had
amused themselves with exercising the lance,
dancing, and various kinds of merriment. Of
this cheerful scene Bligh and his men had been
beholders and partakers every fine evening. In
the midst of these delights, the moments so
blissfully flew, that the young men of the Bounty
seemed to imagine that the day of departure
would never come :
" But pleasures are like poppies spread,
You seize the fiow'r, its bloom is shed ;
Or like the snow-fall in the river,
A moment white, then melts for ever ;
Or like the Borealis race,
That flit ere you can point their place ;
Or like the rainbow's lovely form,
Evanishing amid the storm."
On Friday, the 3rd of April, 1789, all was
silent. The mirth of the island was gone. The
visitors were under sailing orders, and must
quit the charming scene. It was a heavy trial
to many. They had conformed themselves to
the ways and habits of the native community ;
and, just as though they had been settled in the
place, most of the party had suffered themselves
to undergo the custom of tattooing.
They had now passed three and twenty pleas-
ant weeks at Otaheite. On Saturday the 4th,
the ship, as if loth to leave, moved slowly off,
WYTOOTACKEE AND ANNAMOOKA. 27
being towed out of the harbour. Poor Tinah
was on board to the last. He longed for a
salute from the ship's guns on his departure,
and wished that honour should be shown him
before his people. But the indulgence of a salute
could not be granted, for fear of disturbing the
bread-fruit plants. As a parting token, however,
of respect and regard, the Bounty people manned
ship with all hands, and gave him three hearty
cheers, as he left. Farewell, Tinah, inoffensive,
genial chief! No more has been heard of you,
since the rays of the setting sun fell on the de-
parting Bounty, and you in sadness and sorrow
again reached your shores, deserted by the
youthful and the gay.
Soon afterwards, the fresh sea-breeze blew,
and they stood off to sea, steering towards the
isle of Huaheine. On the 9th, they saw a water-
spout, which passed within ten yards of the
stern of the Bounty. After touching at the island
of Wytootackee, and arranging some friendly
interviews with the natives, Bligh anchored at
Annamooka for water. Here some instances of
theft occurred ; and the natives insulted the
watering party, forcibly taking a spade from
them. A boat's grapnel was also stolen. In
consequence of these robberies, some of the
chiefs were detained on board ; but Bligh, de-
spairing of the return of the property, let the
poor men go, they having denied all know-
ledge of the crimes imputed, and beaten them-
selves about the face and eyes, weeping and
lamenting. At last, the parting from Anna-
mooka w r as friendly ; the tears of the liberated
28 THE MUTINY.
chiefs were changed into smiles of joy ; and on
the 27th of April, the voyagers were sailing on
a smooth sea, between the islands of Tofoa and
Kotoo.
On the arrival of the Bounty off Tofoa, one of
the Friendly Islands, on the 28th of April, 1789,
a dreadful mutiny broke out among some of the
ship's officers and men, with Fletcher Christian,
the master's mate, at their head. He was of a
respectable family in the north of England, a
young man of talent in his profession, twenty-
four years of age, and of a quick and daring
spirit.
It is difficult, at this distance of time, to judge
of the real motives which actuated these men in
their evil design. Indeed, at the period of the
mutiny, the object which the leaders had in view
could only be conjectured. Bligh gave it as his
opinion, that they had flattered themselves with
the hope of returning to Otaheite, and again
leading the agreeable kind of life which they had
passed in that lovely and fascinating island; and
he was most probably right.
It has been alleged, on the other hand, that the
idea of revisiting Otaheite had not formed part of
the plan, but that, during the voyage, there had
been frequent misunderstandings between the
commander and Fletcher Christian; and that
offence had been given by the former to Christian,
and to some of the men, on the day before the
mutiny. Much stress has been laid, by different
persons, on each of these circumstances, as if one
or the other had been the cause of the outrage.
On this part of the subject it is unnecessary
THE MUTINY. 29
to dwell at any length ; though it must not be
wholly passed over. To assume, without proof,
that the act of the mutineers was owing to
tyranny on the part of Bligh, is surely not to
make their case better; because, in this point
of view, the deed must be looked upon as one,
not only of sinful revenge against their com-
mander, but of absurd and wanton cruelty against
their unoffending messmates. For what prospect
was there to men exposed in such a manner to
the horrors of the deep, but death,' either by
drowning or starvation?
Again, those who had been accomplices in the
mutiny would be likely to make excuses, and to
throw the cause of the crime on any but them-
selves. Every thoughtful reader will doubt the
value of statements coming from such a quarter.
Bligh was a well-trained and distinguished
officer of a former school. Notwithstanding
occasional impatient expressions of anger, which
appear to have been more prevalent in naval
commanders of those days, and which the rough
and uneducated character of their crews was
likely to provoke, still it is clear that it was
Bligh' s study to make his men not only effi-
cient, but comfortable and happy. No one can
read his journal without being impressed with
the tone of thoughtfulness for the welfare of
others which pervades that remarkable work.
But he could not endure professional neglect.
Attending strictly to his own duty, he deemed
it his part to see that those about him should
attend to theirs : and it will be allowed, that he
had some men under his command intractable
80 THE MUTINY.
enough to try severely a temper less impetuous
than his. On the 9th of March, he had found
it necessary, on a complaint of the master, to
punish one of the seamen for insolence, and
mutinous behaviour.
With regard to Fletcher Christian, he said,
" This was the third voyage he had made with
me; and as I found it necessary to keep my
ship's company at three watches, I had given
him an order to take charge of the third, his
abilities being thoroughly equal to the task."
Speaking of the division into three watches,
he added, " I have always considered this a
desirable regulation, when circumstances will
admit of it, on many accounts ; and am per-
suaded that unbroken rest not only contributes
much to the health of the ship's company, but
enables them more readily to exert themselves
in cases of sudden emergency."
On the evening before the mutiny, Bligh had
invited Christian to supper in his cabin ; an
invitation which was declined, Christian saying
that he was unwell; but he had engaged to dine
with Bligh on the following day.
The night of the 27th of April, 1789, was
remarked for its beauty, even in the tropical
regions, all nature being calm and lovely around ;
but it was the eve of a day of consternation and
terror. On that night Christian had the watch
for two hours. He had also the next morning's
watch, which was from 4 to 8. Pull of desperate
intentions, he began to sound Matthew Quintal,
and some others, and soon gained over the greater
part of the men. Having rapidly arranged their
MEN IN THE BOUNTY, 31
plans, they got at the arms, under pretence of
requiring a gun to shoot a shark, which was
astern of the ship.
At the dawn of day, they roughly awoke
Bligh, who, starting up in amazement, on seeing
men about him armed with cutlasses and pistols,
called out loudly for assistance. On his demand-
ing what they meant, " Hold your tongue, sir,
or you are dead this instant !" was the answer
which he received. Some of the mutineers,
among whom Christian, Churchill, Mills, and
Burkitt, were the most active, using oaths and
violence, tied his hands with cords behind his
back, not giving him time to dress ; and forcing
him on the deck in his shirt, kept him under
a guard behind the main-mast. They had
secured the officers who were not of their party,
by placing sentinels at their doors. " I con-
tinued my endeavours," said Bligh, " to turn
the tide of affairs, when Christian changed
the cutlass he had in his hand for a bayonet
which was brought to him ; and, holding me
with & strong gripe by the cord that tied my
hands, he, with many oaths, threatened to kill
me if I would not be quiet."
The boatswain and others, having been com-
pelled to hoist out the launch, Bligh and eighteen
men were forced to go into her, and were
quickly veered astern of the ship by a rope.
The men who remained on board the Bounty,
were, as Bligh said, "twenty-five of the most
able men in the ship. 7 A description of their
several persons was afterwards drawn up by
Bligh and others in the Bounty launch, and
C
32 DESCRIPTION OF THE MEN".
completed at Timor, Copies were forwarded to
Lord Cornwallis, Governor-General of India, and
to Governor Phillip, New South Wales. A list
was left at Batavia. The author has no need to
make any apology for inserting these particulars,
which he is now enabled to furnish from a rare
but authentic document. Among the following
names will be seen those of the founders of
families, respecting whose history this book is
about to treat.
FLETCHER 'CHRISTIAN, Master's Mate, 24 years of age,
5 feet 9 in. high, very dark-brown complexion, dark-
brown hair, strong made, a star tattooed on his left
breast, &c.
PETER HEYWOOD, Midshipman, aged 1 7, 5 feet 7 in. high,
fair complexion, light-brown hair, very much tattooed.
On his right leg tattooed the three legs of the Isle of
Man, as upon the coin. At this time he has not done
growing.
EDWARD YOUNG, Midshipman, aged 22 years, 5 feet 8 in.
high, dark complexion ; strong ; lost several of his fore
teeth ; tattooed, a heart and a dart through it, and E. Y.
GEORGE STEWART, Midshipman, aged 23 years, 5 feet 7 in.
high, good complexion, dark hair, slender make, small
face, black eyes, tattooed on the left breast with a star,
and on the left arm with a heart and darts.
JAMES MORISON, Boatswain's Mate, aged 28 years, 5 feet
8 in. high, sallow complexion, long black hair, slender
make, has lost the use of the upper joint of the fore
finger of the right hand, tattooed with a star under his
left breast, and a garter round his left leg, with the
motto, HONI SOIT QUI MAL T TENSE. Has been wounded
in one of his arms with a musket-ball.
CHARLES CHURCHILL, Master-at-arms, aged 30, 5 feet 10 in.
high, fair complexion, short light-brown hair, top of the
head bald, strongly made, tattooed in several places of
his body, legs, and arms.
WILLIAM BROWN, Gardener, aged 27, 5 feet 8 in. high, fair
complexion, dark-brown hair, slender made, a remark-
able scar on one of his cheeks.
JOHN MILLS, Gunner s Mate, aged 40, 5 feet 10 in. high,
DESCRIPTION OF THE MEN. 33
fair complexion, light-brown hair, strong made, and
raw-boned.
MATTHEW THOMPSON, Able Seaman, aged 40, 5 feet 8 in.
high, very dark complexion, short black hair, slender
made; is tattooed in several parts of his body.
JOHN SUMNER, Able Seaman, aged 24, 5 feet 8 in. high,
fair complexion, brown hair, a scar on the left cheek,
tattooed in several places.
RICHARD SKINNER, Able Seaman, aged 22, 5 feet 8 in.
high, fair complexion, very well made ; has scars on
both ankles and on his right shin; is very much
tattooed.
THOMAS BURKITT, Able Seaman, aged 26, 5 feet 9 in. high,
fair complexion, very much pitted with the small pox,
brown hair, slender made, very much tattooed.
JOHN MILLWARD, Able Seaman, aged 22, 5 feet 5 in. high,
brown complexion, dark hair, strong made, very much
tattooed in different parts of the body.
THOMAS ELLISON, Able Seaman, aged 17, 5 feet 3 in. high,
fair complexion, dark hair, strong made ; has got hia
name tattooed on his right arm, and dated Oct. 25, 1788.
MICHAEL BYRNE, Able Seaman, aged 28, 5 feet 6 in. high,
fair complexion, short fair hair, slender made., is almost
blind, plays the violin.
MATTHEW QUINTAL, Able Seaman, aged 21, 5 feet 5 in.
high, fair complexion, light-brown hair, strong made,
very much tattooed.
WILLIAM M'CoY, Able Seaman, aged 25, 5 feet 6 in. high,
fair complexion, light-brown hair, strong made, a scar
where he has been stabbed in the belly, a small scur
under the chin, is tattooed in different parts.
ALEXANDER SMITH, alias JOHN ADAMS, Able Seaman,
aged 22, 5 feet 5 in. high, brown complexion, brown
hair, strong made, very much pitted with the smallpox,
and very much tattooed on his body, legs, arms, and
feet ; he has a scar on his right foot, where it has been
cut with a wood axe.
JOHN WILLIAMS, Able Seaman, aged 25, 5 feet 5 in. high,
dark complexion, black hair, slender made, has a scar on
the back part of his head, is tattooed ; a native of
Guernsey ; speaks French.
ISAAC MARTIN, Able Seaman, aged 30 years, 5 feet 1 1 in.
high, sallow complexion, short brown hair, raw-boned
tattooed with a star on his left breast.
KENRY HILLBRANT, Cooper, aged 25 years, 5 feet 7 in<
C2
34 MEN IN THE LAUNCH.
high, fair complexion, 'sandy hair, strong made, left arm
shorter than the other, having been broken ; is an
Hanoverian born, speaks bad English, tattooed in several
places.
WILLIAM MUSPRATT, Commander's Steward, aged 30,
5 feet 6 in. high, dark complexion, brown hair, slender
made, a very strong black beard, with scars under his
chin ; is tattooed in several places of his body.
JOSEPH COLEMAN, Armourer, aged 40 years, 5 feet 6 in.
high, fair complexion, gray hair, strong made, a heart
tattooed on one of his arms.
CHARLES XORMAN, Carpenter's Mate, aged 26 years, 5 feet
9 in. high, fair complexion, light-brown hair, slender
made, is pitted with the small pox, and has a remarkable
motion with his head and eyes.
THOMAS MC!NTOSH, Carpenter's Crew, aged 28, 5 feet 6 in.
high, fair complexion, light-brown hair, slender made, is
pitted with the small pox, and is tattooed.
The nineteen in the launch were as follow :
WILLIAM BLIGH, Commander.
JOHN FRYER, Master.
WILLIAM ELPHINSTON, Master's Mate.
ROBERT TINKLER, a Boy.
WILLIAM PECKOVER, Gunner.
WILLIAM COLE, Boatswain.
WILLIAM PURCELL, Carpenter.
THOMAS D. LEDWARD, Surgeon's Mate.
JOHN SAMUEL, Clerk and Steward.
DAVID NELSON, Botanist.
LAWRENCE LEBOGUE, Sailmaker.
PETER LINKLATER, ^ ,, .
JOHN NORTON, Quarter-Masters.
GEORGE SIMPSON, Quarter-Master's Mate.
THOMAS HALL, Ship's Cook.
JOHN SMITH, Commander's Cook.
ROBERT LAMB, Butcher.
Having flung them a few pieces of pork
amounting to 32 pounds, 150 pounds of bread
28 gallons of water, 6 quarts of rum, 6 bottles
of wine, 4 cutlasses, a quadrant, and a compass,
MEN IN THE LAUNCH. 35
with a quantity of twine, canvas, and cordage,
the mutineers sailed away. Christian, as if to
keep up the courage of his comrades, and exert
his usurped authority in the vessel, ordered a
dram of spirits to be served to each.
In an affidavit, signed, in the presence
of witnesses at Batavia, October 15, 1789, by
fourteen men who had been in the launch with
Bligh, it was declared, not only that huzzas
were uttered in the Bounty, but that several
expressions were used, which made the men in
the launch believe that the intention of the
mutineers was to return to Otaheite. Little did
those lawless seamen think, when shouting with
joy at their miscalled liberty, what troubles they
were bringing upon their own heads.
Leaving the Bounty pursuing the course which
she had just before traversed, on the bright
waters of the Pacific, the history will now turn
to Bligh and his eighteen companions. What
must have been his feelings, when his well-stored
vessel was rudely snatched out of his hands,
and he was doomed to see all the hopes and
prospects of an important and interesting expe-
dition scattered to the winds ! What a change
in his prospects had a few hours wrought I
The design, however, was not to be frustrated.
Bligh was a man of sanguine temperament, and
vigorous constitution j and it is possible th^t, as
he bent his last look on the Bounty, hope may
have whispered in his ear, that the royal com-
mission would again be placed in his hands,
and be crowned with full success. Was this to
be so ? The reader will see.
CHAPTER II.
SCENE ON THE ISLAND OF TOFOA MURDER OF JOHN NORTON
SUFFERINGS OF BLIGH AND HIS CREW FEEJEE ISLANDS
CANNIBALISM BLIGH's LOG-BOOK MISERABLE ALLOWANCE
PRATERS IN THE LAUNCH ENDEAVOUR STRAITS TIMOR
ARRIVAL AT COUPANG BLIGH'S RETURN TO ENGLAND
MEMOIR OF BLIGH.
THE eighteen men, and their captain, thus cast
adrift on the wide ocean, soon found themselves in
a miserable condition. They began with touch-
ing at Tofoa, an island about thirty miles from
the scene of the mutiny. There they landed,
endeavouring to obtain bread-fruit and water.
In doing this, they seem to have forgotten their
own defenceless state. After some deceitful
show of friendship, the natives who lined the
beach gave signs of violence, by knocking stones
together which they had in their hands. Mac-
caackavow, one of their chiefs, having in vain
requested Bligh to remain that night, the 1st of
May, 1789, the treacherous old man got up, and
said, " Then, mattie," which signifies, " We will
kill you ! " and left him.
Scarcely had the helpless voyagers reached
their boat, when the stir which had been com-
menced by the chief came to its height. About
two hundred natives attacked them with stones,
which flew like a shower of shot : and all would
probably have been cut off by these cowardly
savages, had not one of the crew, John Norton,
quarter-master, run up the beach, for the purpose
MURDER OF JOHN NORTON. 37
of releasing the boat. This brave man fell a
sacrifice, in preserving the lives of his com-
panions. In doing this, he was surrounded by
the natives, who barbarously murdered him, and
afterwards beat him about the head with stones.
Poor Norton, who had been on a former
voyage with Bligh as a quarter-master, was a
man of worthy character, and supported an
aged parent out of his wages. Tney killed
him on the beach, and dragged the body up the
country to one of their malais, or lawns, and
there left it exposed for two or three days before
they buried it. This story was related by the
islanders to Mr. William Mariner, when he
visited Tofoa eighteen years afterwards ; and
they added that no grass had since grown on
the line along which they had dragged the
corpse, nor upon the spot where it had lain
unburied. Such a tale induced him to make
further examination ; and he found a bare line,
as they had stated, in a place where it would
seem there was no frequency of passers-by; and
at the termination of the track was seen a bare
spot, extending transversely, about the length
and breadth of a man.
To this anecdote, which is found in Mariner's
" Account of the Natives of the Tonga Islands/'
it is not intended to give much weight ; there
being many ways of explaining the seeming
wonder. But a matter connected with one of
the Bounty men, so heroic a character too,
deserves to be recorded in this place. Those
who related the marvellous part of the story
were of such a treacherous and deceitful race,
38 MARINER AT TOFOA.
that Mariner, in visiting the volcano on the
summit of Tofoa, in company with a native
guide, thought it necessary to provide himself
with a pistol, as a defence against any violent
measures on the part of his companion. Nor
would he advance with him too near the crater
of the volcano, " lest the man might have some
sinister intent." * The volcano on the island of
Tofoa may be noticed in the print of Captain
Bligh, whose open l/oat is also represented.
After the murder of Norton, on the 1st of
May, many of the natives in canoes followed
Bligh's boat very quickly, and renewed the
assault with stones, of which they had brought
a great quantity ; but, being attracted by some
clothes which were, by his order, thrown to
them, and which they stopped to pick up, they
lost time, and abandoned the pursuit.
It was then resolved by the party, at Bligh's
instance, to make for a Dutch settlement on the
island of Timor, in the East Indies, a distance
of no less than 3,618 miles.
Their stock of provisions then consisted of
about 150 pounds of bread, 28 gallons of water,
20 pounds of pork, 3 bottles of wine, and a small
quantity of rum ; a few cocoa-nuts were also in
the boat. Such bread-fruit as they had was of
no use, having been trampled to pieces in the
bustle and confusion of the attack at Tofoa.
The sufferings undergone by these eighteen
men, in a boat only twenty- three feet in length,
and six feet nine inches in breadth, heavily
laden, and without any awning, were very
* Mariner's "Tonga Islands/" vol. i. chap. viii.
BLIGH MAKES FOR "NEW HOLLAND. 39
severe. They had to encounter heavy storms, and
the pains of cold and hunger. Aware of the vast
tract of voyage before tlwn, they promised to be
content with one ounce of bread, and a quarter
of a pint of water a day, for each person.
The courageous and skilful manner in which
Bligh pursued his course to the end, forms a
striking fact in the annals of naval adventure.
Having entreated the men, in the most solemn
manner, not to depart from the promise which
they had made, he, on the 2d of May, bore
away, and shaped his course for New Holland,
across a sea little explored. The boat was of
such limited dimensions, that her gunwales are
stated to have been not more than six inches
above the water. In a violent tempest, which
soon broke over them, the boat shipped such
a quantity of water, that it was only by great
exertions that she could be kept afloat.
On the 5th of May, continuing their course to
the north-west, they saw and passed a cluster of
islands. Hitherto they had not been able to
keep any other account than by guess ; but they
now succeeded in getting a log-line marked, and
by a little practice some could count the seconds
with a tolerable degree of exactness.
On the 6th, to their great joy, they hooked a
fish ; but were miserably disappointed by losing
it, as they tried to get it into the boat.
On the 7th, the helpless and confined 'state
in which they were, induced Mr> Bligh to put
themselves " at watch and watch ;" so that one
half might be on the look-out, while the others
lay down in the boat's bottom^ or upon a chest.
40 THE FEEJEE ISLANDS.
Even this gave but a trifling alleviation to their
sufferings. Exposed to constant wet and cold,
and not having room to stretch their limbs, they
often became so dreadfully cramped as to be
incapable of moving.
On this day, another group of islands was
seen; from whence they observed two large
canoes in pursuit, one of which, by three o'clock
in the afternoon, had gained upon them, and
arrived within two miles of the boat, when the
savages gave up the chase, and returned to
shore. Mr, Bligh concluded, from the direction
of these tracts of land, that they must have been
the dangerous Feejee Islands, of which there
are upwards of two hundred. The appearance
of these islands, especially of the two largest, is
generally very beautiful and interesting. They
are well wooded, and have extensive rivers.
The late Captain H. J. Worth, who visited the
Feejee Islands in the Calypso^ in June, 1848,
said, in a report which he sent home, that the
group was supposed to contain a population
of 300,000 inhabitants.
Bligh appears to have had a providential
escape from the Feejeeans, who are not only
cunning, cruel, and vindictive, but are to be
ranked among the vilest and most ruthless
cannibals. Their horrible habit of feeding on
human flesh is the more remarkable, as they
excel their neighbours in talent and ingenuity,
of which Captain Cook saw several specimens in
1777, and which have been noticed by subse-
quent travellers. Cook admired their well-carved
clubs and spears ; their earthen pots, variegated
THE FEEJEE CANNIBALS. 41
mats, and beautiful chequered cloth, but spoke
with disgust of their abominable repasts. He
remarked that the inhabitants of Tongataboo, an
island about three days' sail from the Feejees,
hold this horrid custom in detestation ; but are
induced by fear to cultivate the friendship of
their terrible neighbours, and are accustomed to
bend the body forward, and cover their faces
with their hands, to express the sense of their
own inferiority to the Feejee men. Cannibalism
prevails everywhere in the Feejee Islands, ex-
cept in the places in which Christianity has
made progress. Captain Worth was informed
by Mr. Hunt, of the Wesleyan Mission, that not
fewer than five hundred persons had been eaten,
within fifteen miles of his residence, during the
five years previous.
In August, 1855, Mr. Waterhouse, a Wesleyan
Missionary to the Feejees, wrote from Bau, one
of their cities, to say that he had, in the Decem-
ber previous, prevailed upon the king to spare
the life of a young man, an enemy, whom they
had captured. " A Feejeean approached the king
very respectfully, and begged his majesty to give
him the young man to kill and eat that very
day. With diabolical eloquence did he urge his
suit, notwithstanding my presence. But the king
adhered to his promise to me." Many of the
Feejeeans acknowledge that they greatly prefer
human flesh to any animal food whatever.
But it is time to return to the band of men
who had been so wonderfully preserved from
threatening dangers. A small blank book, which
42 BLIGH AND HIS CREW.
had been commenced in the Bounty, for the
insertion of signals, was now found very ser-
viceable in the launch. This book was used by
Bligh, who, in consequence of its exposure to
the wet, found it difficult to make his notes.
" It is with the utmost difficulty," he said, "that
I can open a book to write; and I feel truly
sensible I can do no more than point out where
these lands are to be found, and give some idea
of their extent." This manuscript is in the pos-
session of his daughters, and is much blotted
and weather-stained.
In it he wrote on the 7th May, " Cloudy, and
light winds ; squeezed shirts ; saved six gallons
of water."
On the 8th, the weather was calm and fair,
which gave the voyagers an opportunity of dry-
ing their clothes, and cleaning out the boat.
Mr. Bligh also amused all hands, by relating to
them a description of New Guinea and New
Holland, and supplying them with every in-
formation in his power, so that in case any
fatal accident should happen to him, the sur-
vivors might be able to pursue their course to
Timor.
At this time the whole day's allowance to each
was an ounce and a half of pork, half a pint of
cocoa-nut milk, an ounce of bread, and a tea-
spoonful of rum. " Hitherto," says Bligh, " I
had issued the allowance by guess ; but I now
made a pair of scales with two cocoa-nut shells;
and having accidentally some pistol-balls in the
boat, twenty-five of which weighed one pound,
or sixteen ounces, I adopted one of these balls
MISERABLE ALLOWANCE. 43
as the proportion of weight that each person
should receive of bread at the time I served it."
The allowance of half a pint of cocoa-nut
milk was soon reduced to a quarter of a pint ;
and these poor men, in their deep distress, at
last relished even the wetted and decayed bread,
which was doled out to each in the most careful
and scrupulous manner. A storm of thunder
and lightning, with heavy rain, though it
drenched them once more to the skin, was yet
very acceptable, as it gave them about twenty
gallons of water.
At about this date appears the following
memorandum, which the author has copied
from the book in Bligh's own hand- writing :
" May 9 Fair weather, smooth water ; served
a gill of water, and half-an-ounce of bread for
supper. Sung a song, and went to sleep."
Sung a song ! Surely every feeling heart must
be affected by the contemplation of this simple
instance of cheerfulness in the night of affliction.
It shows in Bligh's character that trust in Pro-
vidence which is so pathetically described by
the sailor, in Dibdin's sea song, as part of the
naval chaplain's teaching :
" For he said how a sparrow can't founder, d'ye see,
Without orders that came down below,
And many fine things, that prov'd clearly to me
That Providence takes us in tow.
For, says he, do you mind me, let storms e'er so oft
Take the top-sails of sailors aback,
There's a sweet little cherub that sits up aloft
To keep watch for the life of poor Jack."
The annexed engraving, from a drawing made
expressly for this work from the originals, shows
44 KELICS OF TIIE LAUNCH.
the bowl, or gourd, out of which the commander
took his meals ; the bullet- weight ; the little
quarter of a pint horn mug for serving out the
water; and, though last not the least interesting,
Bligh's own log-book. They are all much
treasured by his daughters, who permitted them
to be sketched for this work. There are, per-
haps, few genuine relics of the past more in-
teresting. Through the kindness of the owners
the author has had the satisfaction of illustrating
with these objects a lecture on Pitcairn-s
Island.
The diameter of the gourd is rather more than
five inches ; the depth nearly four inches. The
following words are cut with a knife under the
string :
W. Bligh, April, 1789,
Written in ink round the gourd :
The cup I eat my miserable allowance out of.
The horn cup is about two inches in depth,
and not quite two inches in diameter. Bound
it are these words, written in ink by Bligh :
Allowance of ivater 3 times a day.
The bullet is set in a small hasp-shaped
metal plate, which Bligh afterwards used to
wear suspended by a riband round his neck.
Above the bullet are these words :
This bullet, -^j of alb., was the allowance of bread which sup-
ported 18 "mm for 48 days, served to each person three times
a-day.
TROUBLES AT SEA. d5
On the obverse :
Under the command of Captain Will. BUgh, from the 28th
April) 1789, to the 14A June following.
On the 10th, the weather again began to be
extremely boisterous, with constant rain, and
frequent thunder and lightning. The sea was
so rough as often to break over the boat, so
that they were constantly baling, and often in
imminent danger of perishing, In addition to
their other misfortunes, the bread was damaged
by the salt-water. Their clothes being never
dry, they derived no refreshment from the little
rest they sometimes got. Many were benumbed
and cramped by the cold, and afflicted with
violent shiverings and inward pains. As the
weather still continued tempestuous, Mr. Bligh
recommended all to take off their clothes, and
wring them in the salt-water. This produced
a warmth, which, whilst their clothing was wet
with the rain, they could not enjoy.
The following mournful entries are extracted
from Bligh's little MS. book :
" 12th May Calm and very cloudy : very
uncomfortably wet ; no sun : see fish, but can
catch none. Saw a gannet.
" 17th May Sky dreadfully black all round
us. Not able to see the compass.
" 20th May Deluge of rain. We now
dread the night ; being so cold and wet.
" Thursday, 21st May Dismal, dark, rainy
weather ; not able to see the compass ; steering
by the sea, and suppose out of our course."
On the 24th, it was thought necessary to
reduce their already wretched pittance ; and it
46 WHO SHALL HAVE THIS?
was agreed that each person should receive one
twenty-fifth part of a pound of bread for break-
fast, and the same quantity for dinner, omitting
the allowance for supper.
The next day, they saw several noddies and
other sea-fowl, a few of which they were so
fortunate as to catch. One of the birds came
so near the boat, that it was caught by the
hand. There was no wish to cook the birds.
Besides the difficulty of dressing them, the
claims of hunger were too peremptory to
wait for such a process. Bligh divided one of
them, which was of the size of a small pigeon,
into eighteen portions ; " and," said he, " by a
well-known method at sea, of, Who shall have
this? it was distributed with the allowance of
bread and water, for dinner, and eaten up, bones
and all, with salt-water for sauce.' 7 The simple
and impartial method alluded to is this : One
man turns his back on the several portions of
food. Another man, with his face towards the
food, points to one of the portions, saying, Who
shall have this ? He is answered by the former,
who names one of the party ; each person having
thus an equal chance of the best morsel.
After they had shared this grand prize, several
boobies flew near them in the evening, and they
caught one of them. u This bird," says Bligh,
" is as large as a duck. Like the noddy, it has
received its name from seamen, for suffering
itself to be caught on the masts and yards of
ships.' The sight of sea-birds indicated the
neighbourhood of land. The weather was now
dry and fine. But even this soon became dis-
PRAYER IN THE LAUNCH. 47
tressing; the heat of the sun was so intense, that
many of the people were seized with a languor
and faintness, which made them weary of life.
On the morning of the 29th, breakers were
discovered about a quarter of a mile distant;
they immediately hauled off, and were soon out
of danger. At daylight they saw the reef, over
which the sea broke furiously* Steering along
the edge of it, an openingwas observed, through
which the boat passed. They were at once in
smooth water ; they tried to catch fish ; and all
their past hardships seemed to be forgotten. Tt
occurred to Bligh, that they were within a few
miles of Providential Channel. A small island
within the reefs he named Island of Direction,
as it served to show the entrance of the channel
to which they had been conducted. At this
hopeful period, he wrote, " We now returned
God thanks for His gracious protection; and
with much content took our miserable allowance
of 3k twenty-fifth of a pound of bread, and a
quarter of a pint of water for dinner."
They had the advantage of using frequently
a devout and humble prayer to God. which had
been drawn up by the commander. This Form
of prayer, which is in Mr. Bligh's handwriting
in the manuscript book alluded to, the author
has been enabled, through the kindness of Miss
Bligh, to lay before the reader :
PRAYER.
" O Lord our Heavenly Father, Almighty
and Everlasting God, [Thou hast safely brought
48 BLIGH'S PRAYER.
us to the beginning of this day].* In and
through the merits of our blessed Saviour,
through whom we are taught to ask all things,
we, thy unworthy servants, prostrate ourselves
before Thee, and humbly ask Thee forgiveness
of our sins and transgressions.
" We most devoutly thank Thee for our pre-
servation, and are truly conscious that only
through thy Divine mercy we have been saved.
We supplicate thy glorious Majesty to accept
our unfeigned prayers and thanksgivings for
thy gracious protection. Thou hast showed us
wonders in the deep, that, we might see how
powerful and gracious a God Thou art, how
able and ready to help those who trust in Thee.
Thou hast given us strength, and led us, and "
has shown how both winds and seas obey thy
command, that we may learn even from them
hereafter to obey thy Holy Word, and do as
Thou hast commanded.
" We bless and glorify thy name for this thy
mercy in preserving us from perishing. And
we humbly beseech Thee to make us truly sen-
sible of such thy Almighty goodness, that we
may be always ready to express a thankfulness,
not only by our words, But by our lives, by
living more obediently to thy Holy Com-
mandments :
" Continue, OLord, we beseech Thee, through
the mediation of our Blessed Saviour Jesus
Christ, this thy goodness towards us. Strengthen
our minds and guide our steps. Grant unto us
* In the evening, [" Receive us this night into thy '
Almighty protection."]
BLIGH'S PRAYEK. 49
health and strength to continue our voyage, and
so bless our miserable morsel of bread that
it may be sufficient for our undertaking. O
Almighty God! relieve us from our extreme
distress, such as men never felt. Conduct us,
through thy mercy, to a safe haven, and in the end
restore us to our disconsolate families and friends*
"We promise, O Lord, with full and con*
trite hearts, never to forget thy great mercies
vouchsafed unto us. We promise to renew our
unfeigned thanks at thy Divine Altar, and to
amend our lives according to thy Holy Word.
And now, Almighty God, as Thou hast given
us grace at this time to make our common sup-
plications unto Thee, and hast promised to
those who ask in thy Son our Saviour's name
that Thou wilt grant their requests, fulfil, O
Lord, we beseech Thee, our desires and peti-
tions, as may be most expedient for us, granting
us in this world a knowledge of thy truth, and
in the world to come life everlasting ; through
the merits of our Blessed Mediator and Re-
deemer, Jesus Christ. Amen.
" Our Father, which art in heaven, &c.
" The Grace, &c."
The coast of New Holland now began to
show itself distinctly. On the 28th of May,
some of the party landed on a small island.
Half the number slept on shore, the other half
in the boat. On this island, on the 29th of
May, they found plenty of oysters and berries,
which, by men in their sad and reduced con-
dition, were looked upon as luxuries : and above
D2
50 RESTORATION ISLAND.
all, they met with fine fresh water. After a
more comfortable repose on the 29th than they
had enjoyed for many nights, they were pre-
paring the next day to depart, when about
twenty natives, quite black, appeared on the
opposite shore, running, hallooing, and making
signs to land. Each was armed with a spear;
several others were seen peeping over the tops
of the adjacent hills. Bligh, who had earned
some experience, and could judge of the nature
of such invitations, deemed it most prudent to
make the best of his way to sea. He named
the place, Restoration island ; as not only
applicable to his own situation, but to the an-
niversary of King Charles the Second's Resto-
ration, when it was discovered. As the boat
sailed along the shore, many other parties of
the natives came down, waving green boughs as
tokens of peace and friendship ; but the judici-
ous commander mistrusted these overtures, and
thought it wise not to land.
On the 30th of May, poor Bligh makes this
complaint in his book : " The little pork I had
when we sailed we have found frequently to be
stolen, and found it so now, but cannot discover
the wretch that did it."
On the 31st, the voyagers landed on an island
of good height, in order to get a distinct view
of" the coast, as well as to obtain food. Some
of the men were sent for supplies ; the others
were ordered to remain in the boat. A few of
the former paity, unwilling to work, owing to
fatigue and weakness, said they would rathe-
go without their dinner than have to search for
:
SYMPTOMS OF MUTINY. 51
it. The scene which followed was so remark-
able, that it must be told in Bligh's own words.
" One person, in particular, went so far as to
tell me, with a mutinous look, that he was
as good a man as myself. It was not possible
for me to judge where this might have an end,
if not stopped in time : therefore, to prevent dis-
putes in future, I determined either to preserve
my command, or die in the attempt. Seizing a
cutlass, I ordered him to take hold of another
and defend himself; on which he called out,
that I was going to kill him, and he imme-
diately made concessions. I did not allow this
to interfere with the harmony of the boat's crew,
and everything soon became quiet."
Immediately after this scene, he added in his
MS. : " Kind Providence protects us wonder-
fully ; but it is a most unhappy situation to be in
a boat among such discontented people, who don't
know what to be at, nor what is best for them."
Again, " Our little well still supplies plenty
of water.
" Saw a bee, and some lizards. I read prayers,
and returned thanks for our safety."
One of the three men who had been sent on
the 31st of May to catch noddies, chose to pro-
ceed by himself, and disturbed the birds to such
a degree, that only twelve were brought back
by the party. This man, Eobert Lamb, for
his folly and obstinacy, received a good beat-
ing from Bligh, and afterwards confessed
when at Java, that he had eaten nine birds raw,
after he had separated from his two companions !
It was probably he who stole the pork.
52 THEIR SUFFERINGS.
From the above-mentioned island,after making
hearty meals on birds and shell-fish, the voyagers
again put to sea, steering along the shore, often
touching at the different islands, and sandy quays,
to refresh themselves, and to get such supplies
as could be afforded. On the evening of the 3d
of June, they had passed, by a* most difficult and
dangerous passage, through Endeavour Straits,
and were once more launched into the open ,
ocean, shaping their course for the island of
Timor. A continuance of wet and tempestuous
weather, and incessant fatigue, affected even the
strongest among them to such a degree, that
they appeared to be almost at the point of
death, Mr. Bligh then, as at other times, used
.every effort to revive their drooping spirits.
The notices in the journal, a few days after
this, appear to show that their situation had
become too deplorable to last. But at that
awful crisis, as the reader will see, it pleased
their Almighty Preserver to bring them out of
trouble. On June the 8th they had been so
fortunate as to catch a small dolphin, portions
of which were issued, including the offal, in
the usual way of, Who shall have this ? The
remainder they saved for dinner the next day.
Towards evening that day the wind freshened;
and it blew strong all night, so that they shipped
much water, and suffered greatly from the wet
and cold.
MS. book, June Gth. "Caught a booby,
and, as before, some of us ravenous for even the,
blood; 1
SIGHT OF LAND; 53
" June 9tJi. At daylight, as usual, I had
much complaining, which my own feelings con-
vinced me was too well founded. Gannets,
boobies, men-of-war, and tropic birds, were con-
stantly about us. Served the usual allowance
of bread and water, and at noon dined on the
remains of the dolphin, which amounted to about
an ounce per man. This afternoon I suffered
.great sickness from the oily nature of part of
the stomach of the fish, which had fallen to my
share at dinner. At sunset I served an allow-
ance of bread and water for supper. In the
morning, after a very comfortless night, there
was a visible alteration for the worse in many
of the people. Extreme weakness, swelled legs,
hollow and ghastly countenances, a more . than
common inclination to sleep, with an apparent
debility of understanding, seemed to me the
melancholy presages of approaching dissolution"
How cheering are the words which follow:
" Birds and rock-weed showed that we were not
far from land !"
This simple passage reminds us of the words
of the old sea-song :
" Look out, look out, my trusty crew,
Strain every anxious eye ;
Though spray and mist obscure the view,
We know the land is nigh ! "
At three o'clock in the morning of the 12th
of June, to their inexpressible joy, they dis-
covered the island of Timor. Here Bligh breaks
out in language which will find an echo in the
heart of every reader, who has accompanied him
54 ROTI.
thus far in all his troubles and privations.
"It is not possible for me to describe the plea-
sure which the blessing of the sight of this
land diffused among us. It appeared scarce
credible to ourselves, that in an open boat, and
so poorly provided, we should have been able to
reach the coast of Timor in forty-one days after
leaving Tofoa ; having at that time run, by our
log, a distance of 3,618 miles; and that, not-
withstanding our extreme distress, no one
should have perished in the voyage ! "
On the 13th, they found land in a small sandy
bay near the island of Roti, where the natives,
who were of a dark tawny colour, received them
courteously, "bringing them a few pieces of dried
turtle, and some ears of Indian corn, which were
very acceptable. They offered to bring other
refreshments ; but Bligh, who acknowledged
their kindness, and the " European politeness"
of some of them, determined to push on. At
ten o'clock that night he issued for supper a
double allowance of bread, and a little wine to
each person ; and at one the next morning,
which was Sunday, " after the most sweet and
happy sleep that ever men enjoyed," they
weighed anchor, and continued along the east
shore. Then, after rowing and resting alter-
nately for some distance, they were, on the 14th
June, regaled with sounds and sights dear to
every seaman, but almost transporting to those
who had so long been strangers to all that was
joyous in their profession. The report of two
cannons that were fired gave new life to all ; and
soon after they discovered two square-rigged
ARRIVAL AT COUPANG. 55
vessels and a cutter at anchor to the eastward.
Out of a bundle of signal flags, which the boat-
swain had thrown into the launch before they
left the Bounty, they had made a small jack,
which was hoisted in the main shrouds, as a
signal of distress ; " for," says Bligh, " I did not
think proper to land without leave."
Soon after daybreak, at the Dutch settlement
of Coupang, a soldier who had been sent down
to the beach, hailed them to land. He con-
ducted them to the fort; and what was their
delight in making their way through a crowd of
people, who stood gazing with wonder and
pity upon their emaciated forms, to meet an
ENGLISH SAILOR ! This man, who belonged to
one of the vessels in the road, at once stepped
forward to give them a hearty welcome, adding
that his captain", who was the second person in
the town of Coupang, would gladly be of use.
To him the party were conducted; and cer-
tainly Captain Spikerman, though not quite the
second man in the place, was a living example
of the truth of the good old proverb, "A friend
in need is a friend indeed." He received them
into his house, took care of them, and intro-
duced them to the governor. They met with
the most friendly and hospitable treatment from
the governor, Mr. Adrian Van Este, though he
was in a very ill state of health. He sent a
message, regretting that illness prevented his
befriending them in person ; but he committed
'them, to the care of Mr. Wanjon, his son-in-law;
who, with other leading persons at Coupang,
made every effort to render their situation corn-
56 THE LANDING AT COUPANG.
fortable. Mr, Van Este ordered a house to be
cleared and comfortably prepared for Bligh 's
use; but he would accept nothing till he saw
his officers and men provided for also. He,
therefore, took one room for himself ; and in his
own memorandum book he specifies the manner
in which he allotted the rest of the rooms to
them, Then he adds, " The surgeon came to
visit us. Clothes given. Dinner at noon."
The picture given of the landing, displays in
a striking manner the sad condition of these
afflicted creatures, and the feelings excited in
the hospitable people of Coupang. " Our bodies
were nothing but skin and bones, our limbs
were full of sores, and we were clothed in rags.
In this condition, with the tears of joy and gra-
titude flowing down our cheeks, the people of
Timor beheld us with a mixture of horror, sur-
prise, and pity." . Bligh, who headed the sad
procession, and who gave this account, must
himself have had a ghastly and famine- stricken
appearance ; for a few days before, when they
were all on the open sea, the boatswain had in-
nocently told him, that he (Captain Bligh)
looked worse than any one in the boat. But
Bligh himself cheerfully wrote with his own
pen, " I ranked among the few of the heartiest
ones, and was certainly the strongest on my
legs, but reduced like the others very much ; and
it was favourable to all, as I was able to move
about, and supply the necessary wants."
In July, David Nelson, the botanist, died of
fever. Nelson was a man much respected, and
of great scientific knowledge, lie had been
BLIGH'S RETURN TO ENGLAND. 57
originally appointed to the Bounty, on the re-
commendation of Sir Joseph Banks, to have the
management of the bread-fruit plants ; and he
had been similarly engaged in Captain Cook's
last voyage.
On the 20th of August, Bligh, and his crew ;
of sixteen, sailed from Coupang for Batavia, in a
schooner which he had bought, and which he
had appropriately named, the Resource. They
took in tow the launch in which their lives had
been so providentially preserved, Both the'
Resource and the launch were afterwards sold
by Dutch auction* at Batavia.
After some detention at Batavia, in conse-
quence of illness, Bligh was able to embark for
his passage homeward, on the 16th of October,
1789 ; and on the 14th of March, 1790, he was
landed by an Isle of Wight boat at Portsmouth.
f Of the nineteen who had been forced into
the launch, twelve returned to their native coun-j
try, Bligh had brought all but Norton safe to
Coupang : Elphinston, Linkletter, Hall, and
Lamb, died soon afterwards, Ledward remained
at Batavia,
< That, under the very distressing trials, to
which they had been exposed, all with the ex-
ception of the poor man who was murdered,
should have been brought safe to Coupang, is a
fact which may well excite our astonishment.
On this head some remarks remain to be added.
" With respect, 1 ' said Bligh, " to the preserva-,
" The custom at Batavia is to begin high, and to lower
i.e price till some person bids, and the first bidder is the
buyer." Bligh's Voyage, p. 256.
58 CAPTAIN KENNEDY.
lion of our health, during a course of sixteen .
days of heavy and almost continual rain, I would
recommend to every one, in a similar situation,
the method we practised, which is, to dip their
clothes in the salt water, and wring them out as
often as they become filled with rain. It was
the only resource we had, and, I believe, was of
the greatest service to us ; for it felt more like a
change of dry clothes than could well be ima-
gined. We had occasion to do this so often, that
at length all our clothes were wrung to pieces ;
for, except the few days we passed on the coast
of New Holland, we were continually wet either
with rain or sea."
The practice alluded to in this passage, as
well as in other parts of Captain Bligh's affect-
ing narrative, is also strongly recommended by
Captain Kennedy, in his account of the loss of
his ship at sea, and of his distresses afterwards.
Captain Kennedy sailed with his crew from
Port Royal, Jamaica, on the 21st of December,,
1768. They were shipwrecked, their vessel was
sunk, and thirteen men were crowded into the
yawl. Tossed about with hardly any provisions,
they at last reached the Bay of Honduras. " It
may," says he, " appear very remarkable, that
though I had neither tasted food nor drank
for eight days, I did not feel the sensations
of hunger and thirst. On the fourteenth day
my drought often required me to gargle my
throat with salt water. On the 10th of January,
1769, we arrived at St. George's Quay in a
very languid state, having then lost six out of
the thirteen in the course of about twenty days.
BLIGH'S ACTIVITY AND CHEERFULNESS. 59
I cannot conclude without making mention of
the great advantage I received from soaking my
clothes twice a-day in salt-water, and putting
them on without wringing. It was a considerable
time before I could make the people comply
with this measure ; though, from seeing the good
effect it produced, they afterwards, of their
own accord, practised it twice a-day. To this
discovery I may with justice attribute the pre-
servation of my own life, and that of six other
persons, who must have perished but for its
being put in use.
" This hint was first communicated to me
from the perusal of a treatise written by Dr.
Lind, and which, I think, ought to be commonly
understood, and recommended to all seafaring
people. So very great advantage did we derive
from this practice, that the violent drought went
off, and the parched tongue was cured in a few
minutes, after bathing and washing our clothes ;
at the same time, we found ourselves as much
refreshed as if we had received some actual
nourishment.''
Bligh was not a person likely to overlook such
an advantage as this. But, whilst these and
like means were made available for the benefit
of those who were so sorely tried, it must not be
forgotten, that he, by his own advice and ex-
ample, and the application of all his resources,
helped to keep up the flame of life and courage
in the whole party with the happiest effects.
There is internal evidence of this, which has not
been sufficiently marked in the accounts hitherto
published ; but which, if collected, would serve
60 NOTICE OF BLIGHr
to show, that if ever there was a brave officer
actuated by a resolute sense of duty, uninfluenced
by selfishness or partiality, it was Bligh.
A short notice of the life of Admiral Bligh
will be interesting in this place. It appears by
the register of St. Andrew's, Plymouth, that
William, son of Francis and Jane Bligh, was
baptized in that church, October 4th, 1754.
Francis T the Admiral's father, was the son of
Richard Bligh, of Tinten, a duchy estate in St.
Tudy, a few miles from Bodmin, Cornwall. The
general residence of the family was near Bodmin,
where some connexions of the late Admiral, who
also bear the name of Bligh, are still living.
It has been stated that Bligh had sailed for
four years with Captain Cook, in whose inte-
resting history of researches in the Southern
Pacific, Bligh' s name more than once occurs.
The account of his wonderful two years' ad-
ventures, from the end of 1787 to the beginning
of 1790, is before the reader.
On his return to England in 1790, he was
made a Commander, and then a Post Captain ;
the three years' service, according to ordinary
regulation, being, in his case, dispensed with as
a mark of favour.
He was again appointed to a ship for the pur-
pose of conveying the bread-fruit to the West
Indies. This ship was the Providence, in which
he set sail August 3d, 1791, accompanied by
the Assistant, a smaller vessel. They reached
Otaheite April 9th, 1792, from whence they
sailed in July with 1,281 tubs and pots of the
plants in the finest condition. These were dis-
NOTICE OF BLIGH. 61
tributed at St. Helena, St. Vincent's and Jamaica,
and he returned to England in August, 1793,
In token of this important service, and as a
tribute to his merit, Captain Bligh, in 1794,
received a large gold medal from the Society of
Arts. This valuable relic is in the possession
of his daughters.
On his arrival in England from his second
and successful voyage to Otaheite, he found that
the court-martial on the mutineers had taken
place in his absence, and that Edward Chris-
tian, Fletcher Christian's brother, a barrister of
eminence, had put forth a quarto pamphlet,
entitled " Minutes of the proceedings of the
Court-Martial, &c., with an Appendix ? &c."
These minutes are stated to have differed from
those lodged at the Admiralty; and the ten-
dency of the publication was to palliate Fletcher
Christian's conduct at the expense of Captain
Bligh's character. Edward Christian naturally
feared that his brother's life, should he have
lived to return home, would have been forfeited
to the laws of his country.
In December of the same year Bligh issued
an answer to the allegations which had been
published against him, and replied with much
calmness to what he styled Mr. Edward Chris-
tian's defence of his brother. In the preface to
his Answer, which consists chiefly of original
documents, by way of proofs, he said : " One of
the hardest cases which can befal any man is to
be reduced to the necessity of defending his cha-
racter by his own assertions only. As such
fortunately is not my situation, I have rested
62 . BLIGH'S SERVICES.
my defence on the testimony of others, adding
only such of the written orders issued by me in
the course of the voyage as are connected with
the matter in question; which orders, being
issued publicly in writing, may be offered as
evidence of unquestionable credit."
Among the important documents thus pub-
lished, were affidavits, made in August 1794, at
Guildhall, London, before Alderman Sir Watkin
Lewes, which serve to disprove the statements
which had been put forth to Bligh's prejudice.
The Answer contains nothing in his own words,
except a short preface, and the Conclusion,
which is as follows :
" I submit these evidences to the judgment of
the public, without offering any comment. My
only intention in this publication is, to clear my
character from the effect of censures which lam
conscious I have not merited. I have, therefore,
avoided troubling the public with more than
what is necessary to that end, and have refrained
from remark, lest I might have been led beyond
my purpose, which I have wished to limit solely
to defence."
After this event, Bligh was much engaged in
active service, both in war and peace. In the
spring of the year 1797, on the occasion of the
mutiny at the Nore, when some of the seamen
of the Channel fleet, instigated by evil-minded
persons, disgraced themselves by disobedience
and insurrection, the Admiralty employed Bligh
to go amongst them, and effect what could be
done, in bringing back these misguided men
to a sense of loyalty and honour. On that
MUTINY AT THE NORE. 63
occasion he behaved with great heroism and
determination.
An address to British sailors, which was
largely circulated during that memorable year,
and signed " The Seamen's Friend," being
written by the late Mr. William Vaughan,
an active and eminent merchant of Lon-
don, concluded with the following stirring
words :
" Arouse ye, then, ye British seamen ! Go
join the brave Admiral Duncan, who, with four
sail of the line, blockades the whole Dutch naval
force in their own ports, while a British fleet
ingloriously blockades the mouth of the Thames.
Blot from the page of history the record of your
shame, and a recollection of the transaction, by
a return to your duty, and by your exertions.
It may be in your power to close a war honour-
ably to yourselves, and favourably to your coun-
try. Emulating the examples of Lord Howe
on the glorious action of the 1st of June, 1794,
and Sir John Jervis's signal and brilliant vic-
tory on the 14th of February, 1797, go seek the
enemy off their own ports ; and may the laurels
you gain secure to us an honourable and lasting
peace ! Remember, however, that the British
navy and British seamen owe their fame, suc-
cess, and national character to vigour, union,
discipline, and subordination ; and that without
them, the navy is like a ship in a storm without
masts or rudder." The writer of this address
truly added, " The nation loves the navy ; it is
a favourite service."
It was at about this time that Dibdin wrote
E
64 GRAND NAVAL VICTORIES.
his celebrated sea-songs, t> encourage manly
and loyal sentiments among the sailors.
In the year 1797, there were two naval
actions, both of them important in themselves,
and peculiarly so from the state of the times :
one was that of Sir John Jervis, who gallantly
fought the Spanish fleet off Cape St. Vincent, in
February ; the other, that of Admiral Duncan,
who successfully engaged the Dutch fleet oft
Camperdown, in October. These victories dis-
pelled the gloom that had hung over the nation ;
for British valour had shone with the greatest
splendour in both actions.
On the llth of October, 1797, Bligh com-
manded the Director, in the brave Admiral
Duncan's fleet, at the famous battle of Camper-
down. The Miss Blighs have some good naval
drawings by Owen; one representing the Director
coming up with the Vrijheid, the ship of the
Dutch Admiral, De Winter; another showing
the engagement between them ; and the third,
the Vrijheid, almost a hulk, silenced, and
striking to the British flag. The canton of the
Dutch flag, a valued prize, is in the possession
of these two ladies.
The seamen had now, in the eventful year
1797, returned to their duty; and on the 19th
of December a public and solemn Thanksgiving
to God was held in St. Paul's Cathedral, for the
three great naval victories obtained by Lords
Howe, St. Vincent (Jervis), and Duncan.
In 1801, Bligh commanded the Glatton at
the battle of Copenhagen, under Lord Nelson,
who, having sent for him after the action,
ADMIRAL BLIGH. 65
thanked him before his officers, saying, "Bligh,
I sent for you to thank you; you have sup-
ported me nobly."
In 1805, Captain Bligh was appointed Go-
vernor of New South Wales. The steps which
he took, with a view to the benefit of the colony,
in accordance with instructions laid down for
him by the Government at home, dated St.
James's, May 25, 1805, occasioned much dissa-
tisfaction to some persons on the spot ; though
his measures obtained the written approbation of
His Majesty's Government. The instructions
given him had been directed against the unre-
strained importation of spirits into the settle-
ment; the colonists having been in the constant
habit of bartering their goods for ardent spirits.
Lord Castlereagh, in a letter dated London,
Dec. 31, 1807, wrote to Governor Bligh as
follows: "I am to express His Majesty's
approbation of the determination you have
adopted to put an end to the barter of spirits,
which appears to have been abused to the great
injury and morals of the colony ; and I am to
recommend, that, whatever regulations you may
find it most eligible to establish for the sale of
spirits, you will never admit a free importation,
but preserve the trade under your entire control ;
and that you will not fail vigorously to levy
the penalties you shall establish for preventing
illegal import. "
In his energetic efforts to abolish this evil,
and in the fearless discharge of his duty, Bligh
gave deep offence. He was too inflexible to be
popular; and in January, 1808, he was deposed
E2
66 ADMIRAL BLIGH;
at Sydney by the New South Wales Corps,
headed by Lieut. -Colonel G. Johnston, In
May, 1811, Colonel Johnston was tried by
court-martial at Chelsea Hospital, found guilty
of an act of mutiny, and sentenced to be
cashiered. This trial lasted for thirteen days,
and excited great public interest. Colonel
Johnston was of a highly respectable family in
Annandale, in Scotland. He returned to New
South Wales, shortly after his trial, and spent
the remainder of his days in the colony. Sir
F, S. Pollock, Lord Chief Barom of the Ex-
chequer, who was at that time Mr, Frederick
Pollock, was one of Bligh's counsel at the trial.
Previously to this, and during Bligh's admi-
nistration, a circumstance occurred which, when
recent events are considered in connexion with
the people of Pitcairn, appears very remarkable.
His predecessor, as Governor of New South
Wales, Philip King, had advised the abandon-
ment of Norfolk Island as a convict settlement ;
and the execution of the task devolved upon
Bligh ; William Windham, Esq. , then Secretary
of State for the Colonies, having, in December,
1806, despatched to Governor Bligh directions
for the entire evacuation of the Island. The
reasons alleged for this measure were the vast
expense of maintaining the settlement ; the dif-
ficulty of keeping up a communication between
it and Port Jackson; the danger attending an
approach to an island without a port secure from
tempests, and even without a road in which
ships could safely anchor. Many of the convicts
weie removed, against their own wishes, to Port
DEATH OF BLIGH. 67
Dalrymple, and other places in Van Diemen's
Land ; but the entire removal of prisoners did
not take place until the year 1807.
Bligh, after his return to England, be-
came a Vice- Admiral of the Blue. In ad-
vancing years he found much happiness in the
midst of his family, to whom he was greatly
endeared. His eventful life was now drawing
to its close. A serious internal complaint
obliged him to come to London from his resi-
dence at Farningham, Kent, for advice^; and he
died shortly afterwards in Bond Street, on the
7th of December, 1817, in the sixty-fourth year
of his age. He left no son, but several daughters.
His surviving daughters remember him with
feelings of the most tender affection, and call to
mind many instances of the kind and thoughtful
attention which he showed to the welfare and
comfort of his children, especially when any of
them happened to be suffering from illness.
The portrait at the beginning of this chapter
is a good representation of Captain Bligh, at
about the age of forty. His complexion was
naturally pale, or, as it has been described, "of
an ivory or marble whiteness." His hair was
black. His face, though it had been exposed to
all climates, and to the roughest weather, was,
even as years began to tell upon him, far from
appearing weather-beaten, or coarse. This was
probably owing to his temperate habits and fine
constitution.
The remains of Admiral Bligh were deposited
in a vault in the churchyard of the parish church
of St. Mary, Lambeth. On the south side of the
68 TOMB OF BLIGH AND HIS TAMILY.
church is his tomb, which has been repaired and
restored by the Society of Arts. In the family
vault beneath this tomb, also lie interred the
remains of Elizabeth Bligh, his wife, who died
in April 1812, in the sixtieth year of her age.
She is described in her epitaph as a good daugh-
ter, wife, and mother. Two sons, twins, who
died in 1795, aged one day; a daughter, Anne
Campbell Bligh, who died November 1, 1844,
aged fifty- nine ; and a grandchild, W. Bligh
Barker, who died October, 1805, aged three
years, rest in the same vault.
The following inscription appears on the west
side of the tomb :
TO THE MEMORY OF
WILLIAM BLIGH, ESQ. F.R.S.
VICE-ADMIRAL OF THE BLUE,
THE CELEBRATED NAVIGATOR;
WHO FIRST TRANSPLANTED THE BREAD-FRUIT TREB
FROM OTAHEITE TO THE WEST INDIES J
BRAVELY FOUGHT THE BATTLES OF HIS COUNTRY;
AND DIED BELOVED, RESPECTED, AND LAMENTED,
ON THE7TH DAT OF DECEMBER, 1817,
AGED 64.
CHAPTER III.
LEGAL PROCEEDINGS IN CONSEQUENCE OF THE MUTINY
TOUBOUI CHURCHILL AND THOMPSON WRECK OP THE
PANDORA PETER HEYWOOD AND HIS FAMILY LETTERS
FROM NESSY HEYWOOD AND OTHERS TRIAL OF THE
MUTINEERS THE KING'S PARDON HONOURABLE CAREER
OF CAPTAIN HEYWOOD HIS DEATH LINES BY ONE OF HIS
CREW.
RESUMING the thread of the history, the reader
will now return to the period of Biigh's arrival
in England, after his preservation from the vio-
lence of the mutineers, and the terrors of the
deep. On his return home in 1790, he published
an interesting narrative of the mutiny on board
the Bounty, and the hardships which he had
endured until his landing at Timor. This ex-
cited much sympathy in his favour, and no little
indignation against the mutineers.
As soon as the English government became
acquainted with the criminal act of mutiny and
piracy, of which Christian and his party had
been guilty, they sent out the Pandora frigate,
under Captain Edward Edwards, with orders to
visit the Society and Friendly Islands, and use
every endeavour to seize and bring home the
offenders.
On the arrival of that officer at Matavai
Bay, off Otaheite, on the 23d of March, 1791,
three of the men, who had remained there nearly
70 CHURCHILL AND THOMPSON.
two years, namely, Joseph Coleman, Peter Hey-
wood, and George Stewart, came on board the
Pandora, and surrendered themselves to the law.
They were received with all the sternness of
offended justice, and instantly put in irons. The
captain succeeded in taking eleven others at
Otaheite, who were also carefully ironed.
Two of the mutineers, Churchill and Thomp-
son, who had landed with the rest at Otaheite,
were no longer in existence when Captain
Edwards arrived. The history of these two men
has a dreadful kind of interest belonging to it.
Within a short period of their quitting the
Bounty, one of them, the ship's corporal, had
become a king, and both had been murdered !
Churchill, after residing a short time at Mata-
vai, accepted an invitation to live with Walieea-
dooa, who was sovereign of Teirraboo when
Captain Cook last visited that place, Thompson
accompanied Churchill thither; but they very
soon disagreed. Waheeadooa dying without
children, Churchill, who had been his tyo, or
chief friend, succeeded to his dignity and pro-
perty, according to the established custom of
the country. Thompson, envious of Churchill's
honours, and angry at some fancied insult, took
an opportunity of shooting him. The natives rose
to punish the murderer of their new sovereign,
and stoned Thompson to death. This wicked
man had been guilty of murdering a man and
a child, but had then escaped punishment, in
consequence of the difficulty of identifying his
person. Peter Heywood had been mistaken for
him, and was on the point of being destroyed
WRECK OF THE PANDORA. 71
with an axe, when an old chief, who knew Peter,
interposed, and saved his life. The only simi-
larity between these persons must have been in
their both having been Europeans ; for Thomp-
son, at the time of the mutiny, was forty years
old, and of very dark complexion, with short
black hair ; whilst Peter Heywood is described
as but seventeen years of age, with a fair com-
plexion, and light brown hair.
Captain Edwards, after many inquiries, could
hear nothing of the Bounty, nor of the nine
remaining mutineers. But he had secured, and
had with him on board the Pandora, fourteen
prisoners, confined in a narrow space, which
was called " Pandora's Box/' It was built on
the after-part of the quarter-deck, and was only
eleven feet in length.
The voyage homeward was very disastrous,
the ship being wrecked on her return on a coral
reef, off the coast of New Holland, on the 29th
of August, 1791. Before she went down, Hey-
wood and some other prisoners were able to
disengage their hands and feet from the irons
with which they had been fastened- the key
of their chains having been dropped through
the scuttle into their prison, which was, at the
time, fast filling with water. The master-at-
arms, who, whether by design or accident, had
dropped the key, was drowned, with thirty of
the ship's company, and four of the unhappy
prisoners. These four Stewart, Sumner, Skin-
ner, and Hillbrant sunk in their irons. Eighty-
nine of the Pandoras crew and ten prisoners
were saved.
72 THE SANDY QUAY.
Young Heywood seized a plank, and was
swimming towards a small sandy quay about
three miles off, when a boat took him up, and
conveyed him thither. He afterwards sent home
to his dear sister Nessy, from the ship Hector,
in which he was confined as a prisoner, two
clever little sketches, which are in existence,
being within a circumference not larger than
that of an ordinary watch-glass. The one re-
presents the Pandora sinking, as he must have
caught a view of her from his plank. The other
depicts the survivors on the sandy quay, which
was scarcely ninety yards long by sixty yards
wide : where, under the meridian, and almost ver-
tical, sun, the only shelter the prisoners had was
to bury themselves up to the necks in the burn-
ing sand. They were on this miserable spot
for nineteen days. Captain Edwards had tents,
made from the boat-sails, erected for himself and
his people. The prisoners petitioned him for an
old sail, part of the wreck, which was lying use-
less ; but it was refused. He seems to have been
needlessly severe and harsh to men who had not
yet been declared guilty, and who had an un-
doubted right to the common offices of humanity
and respect. But there are those in every age
who find no pleasure in showing kindness to
the unfortunate, whilst they are lavish of their
attentions to the prosperous and happy.
The only article saved by Heywood, on his
escape from the wreck, was a Common Prayer-
book, which, in swimming from the Pandora, he
held between his teeth. It is a small Oxford
edition of the year 1774. It has " P.H." written
HAYWARD AND HEYWOOD. 73
on the title-page, and contains, in the fly-leaves,
some of his handwriting, chiefly in the language
of Otaheite. The writing, which is much oblite-
rated, probably by salt-water, consists of notes
of events and places in which he was concerned.
The first date is the memorable 28th of April,
1789, the day of the mutiny, The next entry
is " Sep. 22, 1789, Mya ToOBOOAl* mye"
"Mar. 25, 1791, We ta Pahee PANDORA."
" EDWARDS, 1 Sept 1791,"" 18 March, 1792,
We tow te Vredenberg tea (several Otaheitan words
follow, with English proper names intermingled
in the sentence), TABLE BAY, GORGON, PORT
JACKSON."" 24 March, 1792, Pahee HECTOR."
This interesting relic, and the little drawings
above mentioned, are in Mrs. Hey wood's pos-
session. <
Captain Edwards, and the remainder of the
crew, after leaving the sandy quay, made their
way in the ship's boats to Timor, where they
arrived September 15th, 1791. They had in the
mean time suffered dreadful privations. A very
small allowance of bread and water each day
was carefully served out to the men, the weight
of each portion of bread being ascertained by
a musket-ball. A pair of wooden scales had
been made for each of the four boats. One of
the seamen went mad, and died from drinking
salt water to quench his intolerable thirst. In
* The allusion to Toobooai applies to the island of that
name in lat. 20 13' S. long. 149 35' W., where the muti-
neers had landed after the mutiny, and where, on a second
visit, they had begun to throw up a fort. They again left
Toobooai for Otaheite in the Bounty at tho end of September
74 PETER HEYWOOD AND HIS FAMILY.
Captain Edwards's boats one of the mutineers
was observed to be engaged in his private
devotions ; but he was roughly, interrupted by
the Captain, who would not allow him to pray,
but chose to read prayers himself among his
company afterwards. Who the poor prisoner
was, that was not ashamed to be seen by his
fellow-sufferers in the act of piayer, and whose
devotions were thus rudely prevented, we are not
told ; but the circumstance is one of too affecting
and instructive a nature to be overlooked.
It is a remarkable fact, that Lieutenant
Thomas Hayward, who had been in the Bounty,
afterwards in the launch with Bligh, and subse-
quently in the Pandora with Edwards, was, in
consequence of the wreck, again set adrift on
the same sea in an open boat, again exposed to
serious hardships on the deep, and again per-
mitted to reach Timor in safety !
Peter Heywood, son of Peter John Heywood,
Esq., and grandson of Mr. Heywood, Chief Jus-
tice of the Isle of Man, was born in June 1773.
He had left a- happy home in the Isle of Man,
in August, 1787, when only fourteen years old,
for his first voyage in the Bounty, and was but
a youth of between fifteen and sixteen on the
occasion of the mutiny. He had now been away
from his father, mother, brothers, and sisters, for
five years. About the latter end of March, 1790,
liis mother heard with grief and consternation of
the mutiny which had taken place on board the
Bounty. Her husband had died two months
previously, and had thus been spared a painful
domestic trial. The dreadful intelligence which
NESSY HEYWOOD. 75
reached her was aggravated by many malignant
additions to the facts. She had been informed
by one who came to break the news to her, that
her son, as a ringleader of the mutiny, had gone
armed into Bligh's cabin ! She could not, indeed,
bring herself to believe the account; but, though
she knew her dear boy's good qualities, she
feared the worst results from his having been
mixed up in such a disastrous transaction.
His sister Nessy (Hester), uncertain whether
he was alive or dead, had written him a letter,
dated Isle of Man, 3d June, 1792, and had
despatched it by "the hands of Mr, Hay ward, of
Hackney; the father," she says, " of the young-
gentleman whom you, dear Peter, so often men-
tioned in your letters while you were on board
the Bounty, and who went out as a third lieu-
tenant of the Pandora.^
After making many pathetic allusions to her
brother's probable condition, and declaring her
readiness, " without hesitation, to stake her life
on his innocence," she adds, " How strange does
it seem to me that I am now engaged in the de-
lightful task of writing to you ! Alas ! my loved
brother, two years ago I never expected again to
enjoy such a felicity ; and even yet I am in the
most painful uncertainty whether you are alive.
The gracious God grant that we may be at
length blessed by your return. But, alas ! the
Pandora s people have been long expected, and
are not even yet arrived. Should any accident
have happened, after all the miseries you have
already suffered, the poor gleam of hope with
which we have been lately indulged, will render
76 ARRIVAL OP PETER HEYWOOD.
our situation ten thousand times more insupport-
able than if time had inured us to your loss."
A letter from Peter, dated Batavia, Nov. 20,
1791, at last announced that he was alive, and
on his return. His account of the painful scene
on board the Bounty afforded them, as far as he
was concerned, comparative happiness. " Hap-
pening to awake," said he, "just after daylight,
and looking out of my hammock, I saw a man
sitting upon the arm-chest in the main-hatch-
way, with a drawn cutlass in his hand," Being
confused with the scene presented on deck, and
having heard two different accounts of the object
and intent of the chief actors in this deed of
violence, Heywood remained awhile a silent
spectator of all that was passing, until, with the
best judgment which his youth and inexperience
could supply on such an emergency, he decided
to remain in the ship. Afterwards, on his trial,
he expressed a hope that he might be reckoned
among the friends whom Bligh acknowledged
he had left on board the Bounty. " Indeed,"
said Heywood, " from his attention to, and very
kind - treatment of me, I should have been a
monster of depravity to have betrayed him,"
Young Heywood's arrival (though as a prisoner
in chains) in England, on the 19th of June, 1792,
was in itselr a relief to his distressed mother and
friends. He had been conveyed from Batavia to
the Cape of Good Hope in a Dutch ship, in which
he had endured much hardship, and had been
thence removed into the Gorgon, where he was
treated with kindness, and allowed to walk upon
deck several hours a day. Two days after his
LETTERS. 77
return, he was transferred to the Hector^ a 74-gun
ship, commanded by Captain Montagu, which
was, for upwards of eighteen weeks, his prison.
Many letters passed between Heywood and
his family after his return. Mrs. Heywood, his
widow, has in her possession some affecting com-
munications from himself, his sisters, and others
interested in his case. That lady, who cherishes
her late husband's memory with reverence and
affection, kindly placed in the hands of the
author papers and letters throwing light on the
severe trials, as well as on the amiable and
honourable character of Mr^ Heywood. With
regard to the rescued Prayer-book, she said that
her dear husband had often found it a source of
much comfort under his afflictions.
This little work would be incomplete without
some further notice of one, who was enabled, by
the good providence of God, in whom he trusted,
to live down the scandal and heavy imputa-
tions, which, in consequence of his position and
circumstances, in relation to other and older
men, had fallen upon him in his youth. The
following letters, which are classed according to
their dates, cannot be read without emotion.
Heywood was now a prisoner on board the
Hector , at Portsmouth, awaiting his trial.
" Escaped with life, in tatters,"
as the sea-song has it, he had reached Spithead,
distressed and moneyless. The cheap and poor
suit of nankeen in which the youth was clad, he
had bought out of the produce of some straw
hats made by himself, whilst his hands were in
manacles.
78 LETTERS.
Commodore Pasley to Mr. P, Heywood.
"SHEERNESS, July 1st, 1792.
" I have, by this day's post, my dear young
friend, written to my friend, Sir Andrew Ham-
mond, to supply you with money, or what else
you may want at present. In a day or two you
shall hear from me particularly in answer to your
letter. I have seen Mr. Fryer and Cole. Rest
assured of every exertion in my power to serve
you. Let me hear from you, and be particular
in anything in which you think I can serve you.
Bear your present situation with patience and
firmness. Adieu ! May God grant that your
innocence may be made clear, which will make
happy your family and your affectionate uncle,
" THOS. PASLEY."
Heywood wrote a letter to his sisters, dated
July 12, 1792, HfM. S. Hector, Portsmouth;
beginning, " My beloved sisters all."
In this he expresses his delight at hearing
from them all, and alludes to a plan which his
sister Nessy had projected for a visit to him, on \
board the Hector: " Oh, my Nessy, it grieves
me to think I must be under the necessity, how-
ever heart-breaking to myself, of desiring you
will relinquish your most affectionate design of
coming to see me. It is too long and tedious
a journey; and, even on your arrival, you would
not be allowed the wished- for happiness, both to
you and myself, of seeing, much less conversing
with your unfortunate brother. The rules of the
LETTERS. 79
service are so strict, that prisoners are not per-
mitted to have any communication with female
relations."
Two days after writing this letter, he addressed
the following communication to Mrs. Bligh, who
was then in London, Captain Bligh having, at
that time, sailed for Otaheite, on his second
commission for bread-fruit plants.
The reader will observe with interest the poor
youth's allusion to his clothes, which he had left
in London nearly five years before, and which
he seems to have wanted in time for his trial.
" His MAJESTY'S SHIP, Hector, PORTSMOUTH.
July Uth, 1792.
" DEAR MADAM, I make no doubt you have
already heard of my arrival here as a prisoner,
to answer for my conduct done on the day that
unfortunate mutiny happened which deprived
Captain Bligh of his ship, and I then feared, of
life; but, thank God, it is otherwise, and I
sincerely congratulate you, Madam, upon his
safe, and almost miraculous, arrival in England.
I hope ere this you have heard of the cause of my
determination to remain in the ship ; which was
unknown to Captain Bligh, who, unable to con-
jecture the reason, did, as I have reason to fear
(I must say, naturally), conclude, or rather sus-
pect, me likewise to have been a coadjutor, in
that unhappy affair. But God only knows how
little I merited so unjust a suspicion, if such a
suspicion ever entered his breast. My thorough
consciousness of never having merited it, makes
me sometimes flatter myself that he could scarcely
80 LETTERS.
be so cruel ; and ere long, let me hope, I shall
have an equitable tribunal to plead at ; before
which (through God's assistance), I shall have
it in my power to proclaim my innocence, and
clear up my long-injured character before the
world.
" I hear he has gone out again ; if so, may he
have all the success he can wish! Alas, Madam,
I yesterday heard of the melancholy news of
the death of your best of parents. I heartily
condole with you for his loss. In him I lost the
most kind friend and advocate, whose memory I
shall for ever revere with the highest veneration.
" I have one request to ask of you, Madam,
which is, that you will be so obliging as to in-
quire whether Mrs. Duncan, in Little Hermitage
Street, has in her possession the clothes which,
if you remember, I left with her in 1787; and
gave you an order, by which you might at any
time get them from her ; so that if they are still
there, you will be so good as to send them down
here directing them for me, ' On board his Ma-
jesty's ship Hector, to the care of Sergeant
William Clayfield, Marines, Portsmouth, or
elsewhere. 7 But if you can hear no tidings of
them or her, you will honour with a few lines your
much obliged, obedient, and humble servant,
"PETER HEYWOOD."
He soon afterwards received from his three
sisters replies to his letter of July 12th. These
were on one sheet : the first was from his eldest
sister :
LETTERS* 81
Miss Heywood to Mr. Peter Heywood.
" ISLE OF MAN, July 17, 1792,
"How can I sufficiently thank you, my
dearest and most beloved boy, for your kind
attention in remembering me, when I should
have been the first to welcome you on your
arrival in England ! It is as impossible for you
to conceive, as for me to express, the pleasure
and satisfaction we felt on receipt of your several
letters. James had your favour by the same
packet which brought mine. What infinite
obligations are we under, my dearest Peter, to
Mr. Heywood, and his amiable daughter, Mrs.
Bertie! To her kind and maternal attention you
owe the re-establishment of your precious health,
that blessing without which there is no real en-
joyment in this life. And let it be, my dear
bi other, our future study to render ourselves de-
serving of, though it will be impossible to repay,
such friendship. God grant your innocence may
be, by your acquittal, speedily known to the
world ! I never for a moment doubted it ; nor
if it was in the smallest degree suspected, would
you, my dearest boy, be sustained and supported
by so many friends, who, I am convinced, will
do everything in their power for you. How
anxiously do we all wish for the time when
we shall have the inexpressible happiness of
embracing you in the Isle of Man! May
that period be very, very near; and may that
Almighty Providence which has hitherto pre-
served you, watch over and protect you at the
F 2
82 LETTERS.
awful moment of trial ! My mamma, brothers,
and sisters join in most affectionate love and
ardent wishes for your safety. That you, my
beloved boy, may have a speedy end to all your
difficulties and distresses, and be again restored
to your adoring family, is the unceasing prayer
of your most sincere friend and affectionate
sister, "MARY HEYWOOD."
The following was from Miss Eliza Hey wood:
" How extremely happy would my beloved
brother make me, if, when he has time, he would
favour me with a few lines ! I assure you I should
be quite proud of the honour ; and, as you have
written to Mary, James, and Nessy, my turn
must come next, or I shall feel jealous. Heaven
grant we may soon embrace you in the island !
You may expect to be almost suffocated with
caresses for the first week. Adieu ! Take care
of your health, and keep up your spirits, my dear
Peter. Your affectionate and faithful sister,
>" ELIZA HEYWOOD."
Nessy added these few lines: "For me there
is no room left, but to say that his faithful and
affectionate Nessy sends ten thousand blessings,
the best which Heaven can bestow, and every
wish that love and friendship can dictate, to her
best beloved brother. PETER. "
Then came the trial, and the conviction !
The first clause of the 19th Article of War
(22d Geo. II.) is this : " If any person in or
TRIAL OF THE MUTINEERS. 83
belonging to the fleet shall make, or endeavour
to make, any mutinous assembly, on any pretence
whatever ; every person offending herein, and
being convicted thereof, by the sentence of the
court-martial, shall suffer Death."
The court-martial was held at Portsmouth,
,on board his Majesty's ship Duke } on the 12th
September, 1792. Vice- Admiral Lord Hood was
the President. The officers who sat at the trial
were Captains Sir A. S. Hammond, Bart., John
Colpoys, Sir Geo. Montagu, Sir Koger Curtis,
John Bazeley, Sir Andrew S. Douglas, John
T, Duckworth, John N. Inglefield, John Knight,
Albemarle Bertie, E. G. Keats.
The names of the ten prisoners, capitally
charged with mutiny and piracy, were, Peter
Heywood, James Morrison, Thomas Ellison,
Thomas Burkitt, John Millward, William Mus-
pratt, Charles Norman, Joseph Coleman, Thomas
M'Intosh, and Michael Byrne.
The trial was concluded on the sixth day,
the 18th of September, when the prisoners were
brought in. The court having agreed, that the
charges of running away with the ship, and
deserting his Majesty's service, had been proved
against six of the prisoners, they found Heywood,
Morrison, Ellison, Burkitt, Millward, and Mus-
pratt, guilty; and adjudged them to suffer death
by being hanged by the neck on board one of
his Majesty's ships of war.
The court acquitted Norman, Coleman, M'In-
tosh, and Byrne ; and recommended Peter
Heywood and James Morrison to his Majesty's
mercv.
84 LETTERS.
Two days afterwards, the youthful convict
wrote the following letter to the Rev. Dr. Scott y
of the Isle of Man, who was a friend of the-
Hey wood family :
Mr. Peter Hey wood to Dr. Scott.
" HECTOR, Sept. 20th, 1792.
" HONOURED AND DEAR SIR, On Wednes-
day, the 12th, the awful trial commenced ; and
on that day, when in court, I had the pleasure
of receiving your most kind and parental letter,
in answer to which I now communicate to you
the melancholy issue of it, which, as I desired,
my friend Mr. Graham to inform you of imme-
diately, will be no dreadful news to you. The
morning lours, and all my hope of worldly joy
is fled far from me. On Tuesday morning, the
18th inst., the dreadful sentence of Death was
pronounced upon me ; to which (being the just
decree of that Divine Providence who first gave
me breath) I bow my devoted head, with that
fortitude, cheerfulness, and resignation which is
the duty of every member of the Church of our
blessed Saviour and Redeemer Christ Jesus. To
Him alone I now look *up for succour, in full
hope, that perhaps a few days more will open to
the view of my astonished and fearful soul His
kingdom of eternal and incomprehensible bliss,
prepared only for the righteous of heart.
" I have not been found guilty of the slightest
act of the detestable crime of mutiny, but am
doomed to die for not being active in my endea-
vour to suppress it. Could the evidences who
appeared in the court-martial be tried, they
LETTERS. 85
would also suffer for the same and only crime
of which I have been guilty. But I am to be
the victim. Alas I my youthful inexperience,
and no depravity of will, is the sole cause to
which I can attribute my misfortunes. But so
far from repining at my fate, I received it with
a dreadful kind of joy, composure, and serenity
of mind, well assured that it has pleased God to
point me out as a subject through whom some
greatly useful (though, at present, unsearch-
able) intention of the Divine attributes may be
carried into execution for the future benefit
of my country. Then why should I repine at
being made a sacrifice for the good of perhaps
thousands of my fellow- creatures ? Forbid it,
Heaven ! Why should I be sorry to leave a
world in which I have met with nothing but
misfortunes, and all their concomitant evils ?
" I will, on the contrary, endeavour to dives fc
myself of all wishes for the futile and sublunary
enjoy menis of it, and prepare my soul for its
reception into the bosom of its Eedeemer.
" For though the very strong recommenda-
tion I have had to his Majesty's mercy by all
the members of the court may meet with his
approbation, yet that is but the balance of a
straw, a mere uncertainty upon which no hope
can be built. The other is a certainty which
must one day happen to every mortal. There-
fore the salvation of my soul requires my most
powerful exertions, during the short time I may
have to remain on earth.
" As this is too tender a subject for me to
inform my unhappy and distressed mother and
86 HEYWOOD IN PRISON.
sisters of, I trust, dear sir, you will either show
them this letter, or make known to them the
truly dreadful intelligence, in such a manner as,
assisted by your wholesome and paternal advice,
may enable them to bear it with Christian for-
titude. The only worldly feelings I am now
possessed of are for their happiness and welfare.
But even these, in my present situation, I must
endeavour, with God's assistance, to eradicate
from my heart, how hard soever the task. I must
strive against cherishing any temporal affec-
tions. But, dear sir, endeavour to mitigate my
distressed mother's sorrow. Give my everlast-
ing duty to her, and unabated love to my dis-
consolate brothers and sisters, and all their
relations. I have encouraged them, by my
example, to bear up with fortitude and resig-
nation to the Divine will, under their load of
misfortunes, almost too great for female nature
to support. And teach them to be fully per-
suaded that all hopes of happiness on earth
are vain. On my own account I still enjoy the
most easy serenity of mind, and am, dearest
sir, your greatly indebted and most dutiful, but
ill-fated,
"PETER HEYWOOD.' 7
It was natural for a young man, whose spirit
had been well-nigh broken by sorrows of dif-
ferent kinds, to view his case on the dark side.
Many circumstances had, indeed, come out in
his favour. Bligh, when writing to Colonel
Holwell, an uncle of Peter's, said, " His conduct
had always given me much pleasure and satis-
STATE OF THE TIMES. 8t
faction." But then it had been alleged at the
trial, that he had assisted in hoisting out the
launch ; that he had been seen by the carpenter
resting his hand on a cutlass ; and that he had
laughed, on being called to by Blight His
comments on these charges were forwarded by
him to Lord Chatham, who then presided at the
Admiralty. The explanations are very satis-
factory, having the air of truth throughout.
But he knew the unfavourable construction that
might be put on doubtful acts ; and he was
aware that he had been neutral on an occasion
of trial and danger.
Besides this, as a thoughtful person, he could
not but be alive to the danger of his position,
from the peculiar features of the offence of which
he had been convicted. The year 1792 is me-
morable for the active exertions of revolutionists
and disaffected men in this country, on the one
hand, and for the associations of zealous friends
of the British constitution, on the other. It
was the avowed object of the latter to coun-
teract all seditious proceedings, and to bring to
punishment persons concerned in them. The
authority of the lawful magistrate, and the
claims of the established government, were to
be respected and supported. The example of
France, whilst it excited some eager spirits ^ in
the British empire to a love of change and in-
surrection, animated others to more energetic
efforts for the maintenance of order. In the^
city of Paris, shortly before the execution of
Louis the Sixteenth, Koyalty had been declared
to be abolished for ever ; and it happened that
88 SfiTE OF THE TIMES.
the 20th of September, 1792, the very day on
which poor Heywood wrote the above admirable
letter, was styled the first day of the French
Kepublic. The state ' of the times, therefore,
tended to mark the crime imputed to him with
a yet deeper dye.
JS T or could the sufferer be ignorant of some
then recent cases, short of murder, in which,
amidst extenuating circumstances, and conse-
quent appeals to mercy, the law had been
allowed to run its course, and the capital sen-
tence to pass into full effect. Who that, at that
time, bore in mind the instance of the unhappy
Dr Dodd, and remembered that all entreaties,
and even Dr. Johnson's powerful and affecting
appeal in his behalf, had been made in vain,*
could rest with confidence on the strength of
the intercession of any man ?
Now, however, some intimations from high
quarters began to inspire greater hope in Hey-
wood and his friends.
His amiable sister Nessy, anxious to see him,
and to be of use, resolved to accept the invitation
given by a friend of her family, Mr. A. Graham,
and to make her way up to London, where he
resided. This gentleman had been a purser in
the navy, and was afterwards a valuable police
magistrate in London. On the 3d of October,
1792, we find Nessy arrived at Liverpool from
the Isle of Man^ and writing thus to her mother
and family :
* The original draft of a petition, in Dr. Johnson's hand-
writing, is among the Manuscripts in the British Museum.
The document is short, pithy, and persuasive.
LETTERS. 89
" We did not arrive here till noon this day,
after a most tempestuous passage of forty-nine
hours, with the wind directly contrary the whole
way. Yet notwithstanding that vexatious cir-
cumstance, hard boards, aching bones in conse-
quence, together with passing two nights almost
without closing my eyes, let me but be blessed
with the cheering influence of Hope, and I have
spirit to undertake anything. The plaid was
a most comfortable thing to me . I wrapped it
round my head. At the mouth of the river,
this morning, we met a small open fishing-boat,
into which I got, as I was told I should, by that
means, arrive two hours sooner than I should
otherwise have done ; and as the sea was very
high, every wave washed over me, and I had a
complete wetting. On my arrival, I found poor
Henry had sailed two days ago. I regret I did
not come in time to see him, but I rejoice to find
he went off in good spirits ; and his last words
mentioned Peter ! I have been myself to secure
a place in the mail-coach, and hope to be by
ten o'clock to-night on my road to (may I not
hope ?) the completion of all my earthly happi-
ness. Mr. Southcote, whom I passed at sea,
will inform you that the pardon went down to
the King at Weymouth some days ago. May
we not, then, encourage a hope that I shall find
all our misfortunes at an end ? When I was
tempted to repine at the winds, I remembered
that they were favourable for Henry ; I reflected
on Peter's sufferings, and was content. Adieu,
my dearest mamma, and sisters ! God bless you
all! In your prayers for our beloved and ex-
90 LETTERS.
emplaiy sufferer, add a word or two for your
most dutiful and affectionate,
" NESSY HEYWOOD."
On the same day she wrote to Mr. Graham
on the subject which was nearest to her heart,
and which had determined her to visit London ;
and in a letter to her mother, dated the 5th
October, Great Eussell Street, the hospitable
residence at which she had arrived, she an-
nounced her personal introduction to Mr. Gra-
ham, and added .
" Well, my dear Mamma, I have had a long
conversation with Mr. Graham; and, to my
utmost satisfaction, he says, ' I look upon him/
speaking of Peter, ' to be the most amiable
young man that can possibly exist. I do not
scruple to say, that I should not entirely believe
you, as you may be partial ; but I speak from
my own observation. He conducts himself in
such a manner as will reflect the highest and
most lasting honour on himself, and produce the
strongest sensations of pleasure and satisfaction
to his friends.' Mr. Graham assures me, that
there is not a doubt existing in the mind of any
person who has seen the minutes of the Court-
Martial, respecting Peter's innocence.''
Mr. P. Heywood to Miss Nessy Heywood.
-" HECTOK, October 16th, 1792.
" I have this moment, by my brother James,
my beloved sister's letter of yesterday, which
gives me new pleasure, from the sentiments
I find my dear mother, even now, entertains of
LETTERS. 91
me ; notwithstanding the laws of my country
have condemned me to be banished from this
world, as a wretch unworthy to live in it. But
what of that? Am I the first unhappy victim
who has been torn from his dear family, his
connexions, and his all, though conscious of his
own integrity and thorough innocence of the
crime for which his life must be the unjust
forfeit ? No! Why then should I for a moment
repine ? I do not, nor ever will ! For that idea
alone, if placed on a good foundation, is sufficient
to make any man so light that he can buoyantly
float upon the ruffled tide of misfortune. And
I own to you, my dearest sister, it is that only
whicht now enables me to support my life and
spirits, which, without it, would soon bend
beneath the ponderous load under which I have
long tottered. But by and by I shall, with
God's assistance, throw it off; then all will be
well, and then shall I be a joyful partaker of
that bliss of which I can now have but a very
faint idea ! Cheer up, then, my dear Nessy !
Cherish your hope, and I will exercise my
patience ; both I know by experience to be pro-
ductive of the same fruits of present content.
James is gone to dine with Mr. Spranger, and
I am employing my leisure hours in making a
vocabulary of the Otaheitan language.* Whom-
soever you write to at home, my love, remember
me to them as I wish, and in particular, to our
paternal friend, Mr. Graham.
" Ever, my dearest sister, your most ardently
affectionate, and truly faithful brother,
" PETER HEYWOOD.
92 EOYAL FAMILY AT WEYMOUTH.
" Keep up your dear spirits, above all things.
Hope is yours and mine too."
Mr. James Heywood to Miss Nessy Heywood
" HECTOR, October 17th, 1792.
" MY DEAR NESSY, While I write this, Peter
is sitting > by me, making an Otaheitan voca-
bulary, and so happy and intent upon it, that
I have no opportunity of saying a word to him.
He thinks, however, you must be very busy too,
or you would not deprive us of the pleasure of
paying fourpence every morning. You under-
stand me This is the second day you have
omitted it. I assure you he is at present in
excellent spirits ; I am perfectly convinced they
are better and better every day. Don't, my
dear little ^Ness, suppose I tell you this merely
to ease your mind. No, far from it ; you must
be certain I 'am in earnest, else I would not
write in r so" light a strain. Adieu, dear sister.
Best compliments to Mr. and Miss Graham ; and
believe me, ever affectionately yours,
* c JAMES HEYWOOD."
We know how the recommendation to mercy
'prevailed. 'King George was then enjoying a
visit at Wey mouth, with the Queen and the royal
family. It appears from the public records of
that date, that he found pleasure in doing acts of
kindness ; and doubtless this exercise of the
royal prerogative was a cause of much inward
satisfaction to the king
"The quality of mercy is not strain'd;
It droppeth as the gentle rain from heaven
j THE KING PAKDONS HEYWOOD. 93
Upon the place beneath. It is twice blest ;
It blesses him that gives and him that takes ;
'Tis mightiest in the mightiest ; it becomes
The throned monarch better than his crown.
His sceptre shows the force of temporal power,
The attribute to awe and majesty,
Wherein doth sit the dread and fear of kings :
But mercy is above this sceptred sway ;
It is enthroned in the hearts of kings,
It is an attribute to God himself,
And earthly power doth then show likest God's
When mercy seasons justice."
On the 24th of October, 1792, the royal
warrant was despatched, granting a free pardon
to Heywood and Morrison, with a respite for
Muspratt. At the same time was sent a warrant
for executing Burkitt, Ellison, and Millward.
Muspratt was afterwards pardoned.
Millward, and Muspratt, with Churchill, were
the men who had been deserters at Otaheite, and
who had been forgiven by Bligh for that offence.
Burkitt had been forward in the mutiny on board
the Bounty. Ellison, who was a mere boy on the
occasion of that act of violence, is thus described
in the list forwarded from Batavia in October,
1789: "Thomas Ellison, able seaman, aged 17
years, five feet three inches high, fair complexion,
dark hair, strong made ; has got his name tattooed
on his right arm, and dated October 25, 1788."
Morrison, before his connexion with the
Bounty, had served in the navy as a midship-
man ; and, after his pardon, had been appointed
gunner of the Blenheim, in which he perished
with Admiral Sir Thomas Troubridge. In a
violent gale on the 1st of February, 1807, that
vessel foundered and was lost, with all the
94 EXECUTION OF THREE MUTINEERS.
passengers and crew, on her way from Madras to
the Cape of Good Hope. Sir T. Troubridge was
one of our most gallant and efficient admirals,
the friend of Nelson and St. Vincent.
Burkitt, Ellison, and Millward were executed,
pursuant to their sentence, on the 26th of Octo-
ber, 1792, on board the ship Brunswick, in Ports-
mouth Harbour. Captain Hammond reported,
that the criminals had behaved with great
penitence and decorum, had acknowledged the
justice of their sentence, and exhorted their
fellow-sailors to take warning by their untimely
fate ; enjoining them, whatever might be their
hardships, never to forget their obedience to
their officers, but to remember the duty which
they owed to their king and country. The
Captain said that a party from each ship in the
harbour, and at Spithead, had attended the
execution ; and that, fronf the accounts he had
received, the example seemed to have made a
salutary impression on the minds of all the
ships' companies present.
The following words were used by Mr. Hey-
wood, when Captain Montagu had read to him
his Majesty's free and unconditional pardon, on
the 27th of October :
" SIR, When the sentence of the law was
passed upon me, I received it, I trust, as became
a man; and if it had been carried into execution,
I should have met my fate, I hope, in a manner
becoming a Christian. Your admonition cannot
fail to make a lasting impression upon my mind.
I receive with gratitude my sovereign's mercy,
LETTERS. 95"
for which my future life shall be faithfully
devoted to his service."
The pardon was a source of unspeakable de-
light to his family, especially to his sister Nessy,
whose peace of mind had been broken by the
terror of losing him by an ignominious death,
and whose joy, on hearing of his pardon, was,
perhaps, more difficult to bear than her previous
grief had been :
" For sudden joys, like griefs, confound at first."
She had written to her mother and sisters on
the 26th, enclosing a statement of the pardon
having been transmitted to Portsmouth. In
this letter she said, " blessed hour ! Little
did I. think, my beloved friends, when I closed
my letter this morning, that before night I should
be out of my senses with joy. This moment, this
ecstatic moment, brought the enclosed. I cannot
speak my happiness. I am too mad to write
sense ; but 'tis a pleasure I would not forego to
be the most reasonable being on earth."
In this way the family received the delightful
intelligence ; and the warm-hearted and untiring
Mr. Graham, unable to remain easy at home,
hastened to Portsmouth to congratulate his young
friend, and bring him to London. * Nothing can
be more hearty or natural .than the 'folio wing:;
A. Graham. Esf to M iss N. Hey wood.
"PORTSMOUTH, Oct. Wh, 1792..
" MY DEAREST NESSY,
" If you expect me to enter into particulars as
to how I got him, when I got him, and where
I have him, you will be disappointed ; for that
G
93 LETTERS.
is not in my power at present. Suffice it to say
that he is now with me, and well ; not on board
the HECTOR, but at the house of a very worthy
man. To-day we dine with Mr. Delafons ; to-
morrow we shall, perhaps, sleep on the London
road; and on Tuesday, Oh, my dear little girl!
Kiss Maria for me, and tell her I love her dearly;
and am, Yours most affectionately,
"A. GRAHAM."
To this letter the following postscript was
added :
From Peter Heywood to Nessy.
" P.S. Be patient, my dearest Nessy. A few
hours, and you will embrace your long-lost and
most affectionate brother,
" PETER HEYWOOD."
Mr. Graham's impatience, and generous
anxiety to crown this joyful event, would not
permit him to delay one moment ; and on the
Monday morning, the happy party arrived in
London.
On the 29th October a letter was written
apprising the anxious mother of her dear sailor
boy's arrival in London. Another letter, written
after poor Nessy had seen him at liberty,
breathes the tenderest feelings of a heart almost
breaking with joy. It is thus headed :
" Great Russell Street. Monday Morning,
29th Oct., half-past ten o'clock, the brightest
moment of my existence," and ends thus :
" I can write no more, but to tell you, that
the three happiest beings at this moment on
earth are your most dutiful and affectionate
NESSY HEYWOOD'S TALENTS O 97
children, NESSY HEYWOOD, PETER HEYWOOD.
JAMES HEYWOOD."
This amiable girl possessed, among other
accomplishments, poetic powers of no common
order. There remain in manuscript many
copies of verses of her composition on various
subjects ; though her theme of themes was her
brother, his sufferings, and his restoration to
liberty and honour. The following are among
the lines which she wrote, " On receiving certain
intelligence that my most amiable and beloved
brother, Peter Heywood, would soon be restored to
freedom:"*
blissful hour ! moment of delight !
Replete with happiness, with rapture bright.
An age of pain is sure repaid by this ;
'Tis joy too great 'tis ecstasy of bliss.
My beating heart, oppress'd with woe and care,
Has yet to learn such happiness to bear.
From grief, distracting grief, thus high to soar,
To know dull pain and misery no more,
To hail each op'ning morn with new delight,
To rest in peace and joy each happy night,
To see my Lycidas from bondage free,
Restored to life, to pleasure, and to me ;
To see him thus, adorn' d with virtue's charms,
To give him to a longing mother's arms,
To know him by surrounding friends caress'd,
Of honour, fame, of life's best gifts possess'd ;
Oh, my full heart ! 'tis joy, 'tis bliss supreme,
And though 'tis real, yet, how like a dream !
Then teach me, Heav'n, to bear it as I ought ;
Inspire each rapt'rous, each transporting thought
Teach me to bend beneath Thy bounteous hand,
With gratitude my willing heart expand :
To Thy Omnipotence I humbly bow,
Afflicted once but ah ! how happy now !
What reader does not wish to learn more
about Nessy Hey wood? In less than a year
G2
98 DEATH OF NESSY HEYWOOD.
after her beloved brother's liberation, whilst
still in her youthful days, she was called away
from taking a part in this busy, anxious world.
It no longer remained for her to " rejoice with
them that do rejoice, and weep with them that
weep/' Active and alert no more in the service
of those she loved, she was to seek her occu-
pation and comfort in her sick chamber; and
there is reason to believe, that, trusting in her
Redeemer's merits, and daily preparing for eter-
nity, she found consolation in true religion,
without which the ties of affection must, she
knew, be utterly dissolved, the enjoyment de-
rived from it pass away for ever.
In the manuscript collection, from which the
above letters and verses have been extracted,
is a memorandum by Mrs. Hey wood (Peter's
mother) in her own handwriting, dated, Douglas,
Isle of Man, shortly after Nessy's death. " My
dearest Nessy was seized, while on a visit at
Major Yorke's, at Bishop's Grove, near Tun-
bridge Wells, with a violent cold ; and, not
taking proper care of herself, it soon turned to
inflammation on her lungs, which carried her off
at Hastings, to which place she was taken on
the 5th of September, to try if the change of
air, and being near the sea, would recover her.
But, alas ! it was too late for her to receive thej
wished-for benefit, and she died there on the
25th of the same month, 1793, and has left her
only surviving parent a disconsolate mother, to
lament, while ever she lives, with the most
sincere affliction, the irreparable loss of her most
valuable, affectionate, darling daughter."
CAREER OF CAPTAIN HEY WOOD. 99
Having, on his release, visited his family and
friends, Mr, Heywood, as soon as his health was
completely restored, re-entered the navy, by the
desire of Captain Pasley (afterwards Sir Thomas
Pasley, Bart ), and on the express recommenda-
tion of Lord Hood, who had presided at his
court-martial. Indeed, Lord Hood offered to
take him under his own immediate patronage ;
but this was declined with thanks by Captain
Pasley, who, on the 17th May, 1793, received him
under his own command, into the Bellerophon.
In consideration of the King's free pardon, it
was decided that no incapacity existed for his
thus again fully undertaking the duties of his
profession. In January, 1797, after he had done
his duty in several actions with the French fleet,
Earl Spencer, who had attentively considered the
several points connected with the court-martial
of 1792, wrote to Sir Thomas Pasley, to say
that those circumstances ought not to be allowed
to stand in the way of Mr. Hey wood's further
progress in his profession; "more especially,"
said his lordship, u when the gallantry and pro-
priety of his conduct, in his subsequent service,
are taken into consideration, I shall therefore
have no difficulty in mentioning him to the com*
mander-in-chief on the station to which he be-
longs, as a person from whose promotion, on a pro-
per opportunity, I shall derive much satisfaction."
He became a Post-Captain in 1803 ; and, after
a career of important and responsible service,
including two diplomatic missions to South
'America, was, on the 29th July, 1813, appointed
to the command of the Montagu, of 74 guns, in
'which he served . in_ the North Sea, and after-
100 CAREER OF CAPTAIN HEYWOOD,
wards in the Mediterranean, under the command
of Lord Exmouth.
On Captain Hey wood's return, the Montagu
was paid off at Chatham, on the 16th July, 1816;
and ne came ashore, after having been actively
employed at sea twenty-seven years, six months,
one week, and five days, out of a service in the
navy of twenty-nine years, seven months, and
one day.
On the 18th May, 1818, Lord Melville, with-
out any solicitation, made him the offer of the
command, with a Commodore's broad pendant,
on the lakes in Canada. A considerable salary
was annexed to this important office; but as he
had married in 1816, and there was no war
requiring his active exertions for the benefit of his
country, Captain Heywood, with Lord Melville's
permission, declined the proffered honour; and
he afterwards found his chief happiness in the
bosom of his family. His career of activity
being now at an end in an honourable profes-
sion, which had acknowledged and appreciated
a life of useful labour, his early afflictions, the
sufferings of body and mind, began to tell upon
his constitution. It is thought, that during the
period of his imprisonment, the seeds were sown
of the lingering and painful disorder (an enlarge-
ment of the heart) which terminated his existence.
In the description which was drawn up at
Timor, in 1789, he was represented as "a mid-
shipman, aged seventeen years,, five feet seven
inches high, fair complexion, brown hair, well
proportioned, very much tattooed. At this time
he has not done growing ; and he speaks with
the Manks, or Isle of Man, accent,;!
DEATH OF CAPTAIN HEYWOOP. . 10 1
He had not done growing. .Whilst his body
ripened into manhood, the iron entered into his
soul.
This valuable and excellent officer, having
reached nearly the top of the list of captains,
and being near the rank of Admiral, died in
London on the 10th February, 1831, in his fifty-
eighth year. He was buried in a vault under
Highgate Chapel.
There is not room in these pages for an
enumeration of his professional services ^ but
this deficiency may be supplied by the following
passage respecting him in Marshall's Naval
Biography: "The misfortunes of his youth
proved highly beneficial to him. The greater
part of those distinguished officers who had sat
as members of the court-martial, justly consi-
dering him much more unfortunate than criminal,
extended their patronage to him immediately
after his release ; and through their good offices,
and his own meritorious behaviour, he was
subsequently advanced, step by step, to the rank
he at present holds. The duties which have
fallen to his share he has ever performed with
a zeal not inferior to that of any other officer in
the service. The young men who have had the
honour of serving under him, many of whom
now enjoy commissions, will readily and grate-
fully acknowledge, that, both by precept and
his own example, he invariably endeavoured to
form their characters, as men and officers, in the
solid principles of religion and virtue. We do
not hesitate to say, that his king and country
never had a more faithful servant, nor the naval
service a more worthy and respectable member.''
102 TESTIMONIES TO, HIS CHARACTER.
How zealously must he have laboured in his
profession ! How great must have been the pro-
fessional merits of one, who could have earned,
at the age of forty- three, such ample testimonies
to his worth!
The reader may wish to know something of
Captain Heywood's personal appearance. His
figure was well-proportioned, and rather above the
middle height. His features were regular and
good, and indicative of a calm, observant, and re-
flecting mind. In conversation his countenance
was lighted up with cheerfulness and vivacity.
This chapter cannot conclude better than with
a spirited stanza from a copy of verses, written
by one of the Montagus crew, and sent to
Captain Heywood, by desire of the whole ship's
company, when that vessel was put out of com-
mission in 1816 :
' Farewell to thee, HEYWOOD ! a truer one never
Hath exercised rule o'er the sons of the wave ;
The seamen who served thee would s^rve thee for ever,
Who swav'cl, but ne'er fetter'd, the hearts of the brave."
CHAPTER IV.
CHRISTIAN AND HIS PARTY PITCAIRN'S ISLAND FOLGER T S
ACCOUNT LANDING OF NINE MUTINEERS AND OF OTAHEI-
TANS AT PITCAIRN DREADFUL DEATHS OF CHRISTIAN AND
OTHERS INTOLERABLE STATE OF SOCIETY AT PITCAIRN
INTEMPERANCE JOHN ADAMS'S DREAMS HIS REPENTANCE
AND REFORMATION HIS SERVICES IN THE CAUSE OF RELIGION
AND MORALITY IN THE ISLAND.
To return to the nine missing mutineers.
Nothing more was heard of Fletcher Christian
and his party, until twenty years had passed
from the date of the mutiny when Sir Sidney
Smith, then commander-in-chief on the Brazil
station, informed the Admiralty, from Bio Ja-
neiro, that Captain Folger, of the ship Topaz, of
Boston, United States, on landing on Pitcairn's
Island, in 1808, had found an Englishman,
named Alexander Smith, the only person re-
maining of nine that had sailed in the Bounty.
Smith, otherwise John Adams (he having, on
first entering the service, assumed the name of
Alexander Smith), related, that after putting
Bligh. into the boat, Christian, with the other
mutineers, had gone to Otaheite, where all hands
remained, but Christian, Smith, and seven others;
that each had taken an Otaheitan wife, and then
proceeded to Piteairn, where they had made
good a landing, and afterwards destroyed the
Bounty. .
104 PITCAIEN'S ISLAND.
Before they were discovered by Captain
Folger, in September, 1808, two ships had
been seen from the island. A boat from one
landed, and the crew carried off some cocoa-
nuts, but quitted before the inhabitants could
communicate with them.
Captain Folger, on his approach, was surprised
to see smoke, and signs of houses, as he had
thought the island uninhabited ; but he was
more astonished on seeing canoes, and on finding
himself hailed in good English by the men, who
invited him to land. This he at first declined ;
but one of the Topaz men, a native of England,
offered to go on shore, if the ship were allowed
to come near the rocks, so that he might swim
off if attacked. He went cautiously on shore,
and soon met John Adams, who, like the new
comer, felt some suspicions. Each, in fact,
doubted the designs of the other; till Adams
very soon became satisfied of the peaceful inten-
tions of the visitor. Observing that the man
had a slovenly and neglected beard, he asked
him, Why he did not shave ? Without waiting
for a reply, Adams sent one of the young natives
for his razors, which were brought, and the
man having undergone the operation with some
alarm and apprehension, returned as quickly as
possible to the ship. The captain then came
on shore, and remained the greater part of th6
day. He took the opportunity of giving Adams
an account of the many and great naval battles
in which England had been engaged, and of the
various victories which she had gained. What
a glorious catalogue, including Camperdown,
PITCAIRN'S ISLAND. 105
Copenhagen, St. "Vincent, the Nile, and Tra-
falgar ! At the end of the narrative, Adams
gave a loud cheer, shouting, at the top of his
voice, " Old England for ever ! "
The visit of Captain Folger introduces us to
Pitcairn's Island, and its inhabitants. The
reader may now desire to learn the origin of its
name, and the circumstances of its first discovery
by British navigators.
Captain Philip Carteret, in his description of
a Voyage round the World, wrote as follows,
July, 1767 :
" We continued our course westward till the
evening of Thursday, the 2d of July, when we
discovered land to the northward of us. Upon
approaching it the next day, it appeared like a
great rock rising out of the sea. It was not
more than five miles in circumference, and
seemed to be uninhabited. It was, however,
covered with trees ; and we saw a small stream
of fresh water running down one side of it. I
would have landed upon it, but the surf, which
at this season broke upon it with great violence,
rendered it impossible. I got soundings on the
west side of it, at somewhat less than a mile
from the shore, in twenty-five fathoms, with a
bottom of coral and sand ; and it is probable that
in fine summer weather landing here may not
only be practicable, but easy. We saw a great
number of sea-birds hovering about it, at some-
what less than a mile from the shore; and the
sea here seemed to have fish. It lies in lat.
20' 2' south; long. 133 21 west.* It is so
* The latitude and longitude are here wrongly stated.
106 PITCAIRN'S ISLAND.
high, that we saw it at the distance of more than
fifteen leagues ; and it having been discovered
by a young gentleman, son to Major Pitcairn,
of the marines, we called it PITCAIRN'S ISLAND.
This young man was unfortunately lost in the
Aurora.* While we were in the neighbouihood
of this island, the weather was extremely tem-
pestuous, with long rolling billows from the
southward, larger and higher than any I had
seen before. The winds were variable, but
blew chiefly from the SS.W., W. and W.N.W.
We had very seldom a gale to the eastward ; so
that we were prevented from keeping in a high
south latitude, and were constantly driving to
the northward." f
Pitcairn's Island, distant about 1,200 miles
from Otaheite, is of volcanic origin. The pecu-
liar features of the volcanic islands, of which
there are several in the South Seas, show that
they have been elevated from the bed of the
ocean by the resistless force of fire, which has
given a vertical character, and jagged outline,
to their rocky mountains, and greatly increased
the wild beauties of their scenery. Pitcairn is
in latitude 25 4' south, and longitude 130 8'
west; and the highest point is about 1,008 feet
above the level of the sea. In clear weather
the island may be seen at forty miles' distance.
It is four miles and a half in circumference, one
* His father, Major Pitcairn, was killed at the battle of
Bunker's Hill, in America, in 1775.
t Voyage round the World, by Captain P, Carteret, Com-
mander of H.M. Sloop Swallow, in 1766-7-8-9, Passage from
Mas-afuera to Queen Charlotte's Islands, chap. lii.
PITCAIRN'S ISLAND. 107
mile "and a 'half being the greatest length. The
climate, which is just without the tropics, is
adapted for the production of useful vegetables,
which form the chief article of food : Irish and
sweet potatoes, yams, bread-fruit, a vegetable
called taro (Arum esculentum), pumpkins, Indian
maize, and beans. Here and there are patches
of the tobacco -plant, and sugar-canes. The
fruits are pines, plantains, and bananas, oranges,
limes, melons, a species of apple, and cocoa-nuts.
Among the trees are the cocoa-nut (Cocos nuci-
fera) ; the Plantain (Musa paradisiacd) ; the
Bread-fruit tree (Artocarpus incisd) ; the Nono
(Morinda citrifolia), &c. ; but the most striking
and remarkable is the Banyan (Ficus Indica) : '
** The fig-tree ; not that kind for fruit renown d,
But such as at this day to India known,
In Malabar or Deecan, spreads her arms,
Branching so broad and long, that in the ground
The bended twig takes root, and daughters grow
About the mother-tree, a pillar'd shade,
High over-reach'd, and echoing walks between.
There oft the Indian herdsman, shunning heat,
Shelters in cool, and tends his pasturing herds
At loop-holes cut through thickest shade."
MlLTON."
The temperature of Pitcairn ranges from 59
in winter to 87 in summer. The average is
65 in winter, and 82 in summer. The vege-
tation sometimes suffers from swarms of insects.
To remedy this evil, there having been on the
island only one species of land bird, a small fly-
catcher, it was thought desirable to convey some
birds to the spot. Her Majesty's Ship, Virago,
Commander Prevost, left Callao for Pitcairn, in
108 PITCAIRN'S ISLAND.
January, 1853, having on board singing-birds,
rose-trees, myrtles, &c. for the islanders.
There are lizards, but no venomous reptiles
on the island. The people are annoyed by
rats, which do much damage to the sugar-canes.
Hence the strictness of the law for preserving
cats, which remains to be noticed in a future
page.
About half the island, consisting of six hun-
dred acres, is cultivated. The rest is too rocky
for cultivation. There being but little beach,
the quantity of sea-weed washed up is small :
such as there is, however, is employed for the
use of the ground.
Though the climate cannot be called un-
healthy, the people are not generally long-lived.
Arthur Quintal, sen., the. oldest man now among
them (1856) , is about sixty years old. Elizabeth
Young, daughter of the late John Mills, the oldest
person on the island, is sixty-four, she having
been born in 1792. The ailments to which the
islanders are most subject are, rheumatism, in-
fluenza, bilious affections, and diseases of the
heart.
Nature has fortified the coast with powerful
barriers, which render the island most difficult
of access, except in Bounty Bay, situate on the
north-east side ; and even there the approach is
impossible when the sea is high. The ships,
which occasionally remain awhile in the neigh-
bourhood of the island, and for which there is
abundance of water, stand off and on as well
as they may, and as the wind allows them.
Though soundings in from 25 to 35 fathoms
. PITCAIRN'S ISLAND. 109
may be obtained at some distance, anchorage is
seldom resorted to, the state of the ground being
such as to cause a risk of losing the anchor.
Lofty bristling rocks, one of which is called
St. Paul's Point, rise perpendicularly from the
sea ; and cliffs, with clumps of cocoa-nut trees
at their base, are seen, as the boats approach
the beach, which is shingly, and very narrow at
the place of landing. The landing is effected
in the boats of the natives ; these being better
suited than ships' boats for passing the breakers.
" Having set foot on shore," says Mr. Brodie,
who was there in March, 1850, " you ascend a
steep hill, almost a cliff, for about three hundred
yards, to a table -land, planted with cocoa-nut
trees, which is called the market-place, about a
quarter of a mile beyond which, at the north end
of the island, lies the settlement, flanked by a
grove of cocoa-nut trees, kumeras, plantains, &c.
which make the approach very picturesque." *
Though the island, according to Captain Car-
teret, owes its name to young Mr. Pitcairn, he
having been the first native of this kingdom who
noted the place, it was doubtless once known by
some other name, which is now lost. All traces
of its former inhabitants have also disappeared.
A few human skeletons, idols, and weapons
were discovered there by the mutineers. Thus
it has become a clear matter of fact, that the
island was inhabited previously to their arrival.
Overlooking Bounty Bay is a lofty peak, within
100 yards of which were found on a rock four
* Pitcairn's Island and the Islanders, in 1850. By Walter
Brodie.
110 PITCAIRN'S ISLAND,
images, about six feet in height, placed upon
a platform, which is called a paipai. One of
these was a rude representation of the human
figure, to the hips, hewn out of a piece of red
lava. Each of the skulls which were dug up
had under it a pearl-shell, according to the mode
of burial adopted in the place at the time, pro-
bably some centuries since. It has been sug- '
gested with reason, that the ancient occupants
were drifted to this place from the Gambler, or
other islands, on a raft. Several specimens of.
hatchets, and spear-heads of very hard stone,
and a large stone bowl, were discovered. The
mutineers also found in .a cavern situate in the
face of a cliff, on the east side of the island,
certain uncouth carvings of the sun, moon, stars,
a bird, men, &c. .- ,
There are some inaccuracies in the narrative
forwarded by Captain Folger, in his letter of
March 1, 1813, respecting his visit to the island.
He stated that about six years after the arrival
of the nine mutineers, the Otaheitans had killed
all the Englishmen except Smith (Adams), who
was severely wounded ; and that on the same
night the Otaheitan widows had risen, and
murdered all their countrymen, leaving only
Smith, with the widows and children. His
account may be corrected by the following
statement :
After getting rid of Mr. Bligh and his crew,
the mutineers sailed from Toubouai, an island
about 500 miles south of Otaheite, where they
intended to land ; but the natives refusing to
admit them, they proceeded to Otaheite. A
LIST OF THE MUTINEERS. Ill
second ineffectual attempt at settling having
been made on Toubouai, and a refuge having
again been found, for a short time, at Otaheite,
Christian and eight of his comrades left for
Pitcairn, in the Bounty, with certain Otaheitans,
the rest of the mutineers remaining at Otaheite.
It happened that Carteret's printed description
of Pitcairn had been on board the Bounty ; and
this probably determined Christian in his choice.
Carteret, however, as will have been seen, was
wrong in his description of the latitude and
longitude of the island.
When the Bounty arrived at Pitcairn's Island,
she had on board nine Englishmen, with their
nine Otaheitan wives, and six Otaheitan men,
three of whom had wives with them. These,
with a little Otaheitan girl, made twenty-eight
persons who landed. This little child, then an
infant of ten months old, was afterwards the wife
of Charles Christian, and the mother of Mrs. G.
H. Nobbs ! The names of the nine mutineers
who reached the island in the Bounty were
FLETCHER CHRISTIAN .... Master's Mate.
EDWARD YOUNG Midshipman.
JOHN MILLS Gunner's Mate.
MATTHEW QUINTAL Able Seaman.
WILLIAM M'CoY Ditto.
- ALEXANDER SMITH, alias JOHN ) -p..,,
ADAMS (
JOHN WILLIAMS Ditto.
ISAAC MARTIN Ditto.
WILLIAM BROWN Gardener.
Christian and Young were men of good edu-
cation. The former was the brother of Edward
Christian, Esq., Professor of Law at Cambridge,
H
112 MURDER OF CHRISTIAN AND OTHERS.
Chief Justice of Ely, and Editor of Blackstone's
Commentaries. Young was a nephew of Sir
George Young, Bart. The other mutineers who
landed at Pitcairn were chiefly sailors of the
ordinary class.
They had not long set foot upon the island,
ere it became a stage for the display of every
evil passion. They were " hateful, and hating
one another." During the frightful period of
domestic warfare between the Europeans and
the blacks, in which the former often adopted
the tremendously simple rule of might against
right, the blacks made common cause together ;
and having planned the murder of their impe-
rious masters, they went, from time to time,
into the woods to practise shooting at a mark,
and thus became tolerably good marksmen.
Their murderous plot reached the ears of the
wives of the mutineers ; and the females are
said to have disclosed it to their husbands, just
before the time appointed for the massacre, by
adding to one of their songs these words,
14 Why does black man sharpen axe? To kill
white man."
In the course of the deadly struggles occurring
between the members of this small community,
Christian, Mills, Williams, Martin, and Brown,
were murdered in the year 1793, by the Ota-
heitan rnen whom they had brought to the island
with them. Christian was the first who fell a
victim to their revenge. Mills was the next.
Adams was shot ; the ball entering at his
shoulder, and coming out at his neck. He fell ;
"but suddenly sprung up and ran. They caught
STATE OF SOCIETY AT PITGAIRN, 113
lii in ; and a blow was aimed at his head with
the butt-end of a musket. This he warded off
with his hand, having his finger broken by the
blow. . On his again escaping, he ran down the
rocks towards the sea ; but his pursuers called
out to him, that if he would return he should
not be hurt. He returned accordingly, and they
troubled him no more. All the Otaheitan men
were killed in the same year; one of them having
been destroyed by Young's wife with an axe.
As soon as she had killed him, she gave a signal
to her husband to fire upon the only remaining
Otaheitan. This was done with fatal precision,'
This woman, Susannah, afterwards married
Thursday October Christian, Fletcher Chris-
tian's son, and died at an advanced age in the
year 1850. She was the last survivor of the
Bounty.
The sanguinary frays among the members of
the small body of inhabitants, from the time of
their landing to 1794, have been described at
different times. These painful particulars shall
be passed over. One point, however, connected
with the murders deserves mention, as it may
serve to clear up some doubt regarding the death
of Fletcher Christian. As the spot in which he
was buried on the island is not known, and as
a person resembling him was seen, about the
year 1809, in Fore Street, Plymouth, by Captain
Peter Hey wood, who imagined, from a transient
view, that the stranger was Fletcher Christian
himself, an impression in some quarters prevailed,
that Christian had escaped the massacre of 1793,
and had returned to England. It was said that
^ H 2
114 STATE OF SOCIETY AT P1TCATRN.
the stranger, as if he knew himself to have been
recognised, had fled from Captain Hey wood, who,
after pursuing him for some distance in vain,
felt persuaded that he had seen Christian. But
the man, whoever he was, might have run off for
other reasons ; and some manuscript documents
of the island are stated by Admiral Beechey to
be clear as to the death of Christian and the
others. In 1794, when only four men, Young,
M'Coy, Adams, and Quintal, were left alive, the
women of the place were seen holding in their
hands the five skulls of the murdered white men.
The Otaheitan women were compelled, after some
difficulty, to give up the heads to be buried.
In that year the state of the island had become
so intolerable to the women, that they resolved
to brave the perils of the sea, rather than
remain. They had accordingly prepared to set
off secretly in a boat, which, fortunately for
them, was swamped. Indeed, the men who had
built it probably intended it should upset as
soon as it was launched ; though they had, as
a pretence, instructed the females how to steer,
and had appointed one of them " the Captain."
On the issue of this project, the Island Register
has the following comment : " Had they launched
out upon the ocean, whither could they have gone,
or what would a few ignorant women have done
by themselves, drifting upon the waves, but
ultimately have fallen a sacrifice to their folly ?"
Thus ended the visionary voyage of the females,
who, foiled in their attempt to get away, again
settled down in their sad and unwelcome home,
Whither they had proposed to go, it is impossible
STATE OF SOCIETY AT PITCAIRN. 115
to say. The nearest island to Pitcairn, about
ninety miles to its north, is Oeno, of coral for-
mation, a barren place, most difficult of access.
The approach is so bad, owing to the reefs of
coral encompassing the lagoon which surrounds
the island, that when Beechey, in December,
1825, attempted to land, the boat was broken
to pieces. Lieutenant Belcher narrowly escaped
with his life, and a young lad of the party was
drowned.
There is also, about 120 miles from Pitcairn,
Elizabeth, or Henderson's Island, so called after
Captain Henderson, of the Hercules, of Calcutta.
It is nearly eighty feet above the level of the
sea, five miles in length, one mile in breadth, of
volcanic formation, and covered with dead coral.
The soil is poor and sandy. There are many
trees and shrubs on the island, and it has been
occasionally visited by the Pitcairn people,
chiefly for the sake of the timber found there
On the occasion of their visit in 1851, they dis-
covered eight human skeletons lying in caves ;
probably the remains of some shipwrecked
mariners, who, unable to procure food or water,
had lain down to die. Several pieces of wreck
were found on the shore.
To return to 1794. Trouble followed trouble.
The women, in the same year in which they
had endeavoured to quit Pitcairn, deliberately
planned the destruction of the four white men
left among them. This dreadful plot was dis-
covered in time by the men ; and a partial and
suspicious peace was brought about.
But other horrors remained behind. In 1798,
116 DREADFUL FATE OF THE MUTINEERS.
M'Coy, in a fit of Delirium tremeris, brought on
by drunkennes$, threw himself from the rocks
into the sea, and was drowned. Matthew
Quintal, after threatening the lives rf of his com-
panions, was killed by Young and Adams, who/
in 1799, took away his life with an axe in self-
defence.' Thus, six of the mutineers were mur-
dered, and one committed suicide.' \Edward
Young died of asthma, in 1800. % Adams, as has
been seen, was severely wounded in one of the
contests which took place, but recovered. ., Only
two of the fifteen men who had landed from the
Bounty (Young and Adams) died a natural
death.
Here we may pause to reflect ~on the "unhappy
lives and dreadful deaths of men who had been
guilty of a very heinous offence against the laws
of God and man. Though Christian, when settled
at Pitcairn, often wore a cheerful countenance
and easy manner, there is reason to believe that
the remembrance of the past was deeply painful
to him, and that shame and remorse, mingled
with the fear of detection, weighed heavily on
his mind. On the top of a high rock is a spot
which was called his " look-out." Whilst many
hearts, thousands of miles off, were wounded, if
not broken, by suspense and uncertainty re-
specting his fate, and that of his companions, he
was either employed in surveying the ocean
around him, under the apprehension of the ap-
proach of the officers of justice, or in endeavour-
ing to control the turbulent community among
whom he had irrevocably cast his lot.
It may be observed, that punishment in this
INTEMPERANCE. 117
life often bears a startling likeness to the sin
which has been committed, and which not only
thus finds the offender out, but shows him that
it has done so. Within the narrow limits of the
island, as in the confines of a ship, Christian had
enemies at hand, who harassed, and at length
took away his life ; and it is a remarkable fact,
that he who had raised his hand in a criminal
manner against his superior in command, should
have suffered death from those whom he looked
upon as men under his authority.
Nor must it be forgotten, that one chief cause
of all the quarrels and miseries of the mutineers
was intemperance. M'Coy had unhappily
become acquainted with the art of distilling.
With the aid of a copper boiler, which had been
taken from the Bounty, and which was altered
into a still, he soon made an ardent spirit out of
the ti-root (Dracaena terminalis}. This served
to thin yet further the number of the original
male settlers, until only one of them was left
remaining.
It pleased God to touch the heart of that one,
and to make him an instrument of good to those
around him. His deceased comrades had left
families, who had been brought up in ignorance
of their God and Saviour, all the women being
Otaheitan idolaters. One Bible, and one only,
which had been occasionally read by Christian
and Young, remained this inestimable treasure
having been rescued from the Bounty. Here
was a merciful provision for guiding Adams,
and those around him, in the right way, and
making them wise unto salvation ! It may even
118 JOHN ADAMS'S DREAMS.
be hoped that the blessing had not been wholly
lost upon Christian and Young.
Besides the Holy Scriptures, Adams had the
comfort and advantage of possessing a Common
Prayer-book, one copy of which had also been
recovered from the ship ; and of this book he
'made. constant use.
In the year 1800, having then reached his
thirty-sixth year, he found himself the only
man on the island. The younger part, con-
sisting of twenty children, looked up to him
with reverence and affection. In that year his
son George, who yet survives, was born. About
ten years after this, John Adams had two re-
markable dreams, which presented to him in
vivid colours his past transgressions, and the
awful nature of the punishment threatening
to await them. In one of these dreams, he
imagined v that 'he saw an awful being ap-
proaching, and about to thrust him through witli
a dart. The other vision represented to him
the horrors of a future place of torment. These
terrible dreams not only alarmed him at
the time, but produced on him a lasting and
wholesome impression, and effectually moved
his conscience. May we not believe this to have
been the influence of the Holy Spirit, whose
merciful design it was to give him a better
knowledge of himself, and a sense of the justice
and goodness of God, and to bring him, an
humble suppliant, to the throne of grace, for the
pardon of his sins, through the merits of a cruci-
fied Saviour? " Behold, I stand at the door,
and knock ; if any man hear my voice, and open
HIS REPENT A.NCE. 119
the door, T will come in to him, and will sup
with him, and he with me/' (Rev, iii. 20.)
Let no one say that there is any encourage-
ment to superstition in these remarks. That
which is uppermost in the thoughts, though it
may not have ripened into good resolutions,
much less into right practice, is frequently dis-
played in a manner strong as reality, in those
solemn hours when the world is shut out, and
deep sleep falleth upon man. An idea which
lias been presented to the mind whilst we are
awake> often assumes, by reflection, and during
the hoars of sleep, a solemnity and importance
which it did not before possess. And perhaps
there are no inward admonitions more affecting,
or more fruitful of good, than those which relate
to our children, and to the obligations under
which we are laid to conduct the young in the
right way. Happy are they who are wise enough
to make a good use of that which appears to
have been sent to them for a good end.
Adams had begun to read his Bible ; and
who can tell the power given by the grace of
God to the study of the revealed Word, with
prayer? With a clearer view of the parental
character, and of the condition of his own soul,
Adams became a religious man. He gained a
knowledge of the Saviour, who died for him,
and who called him by His grace. Penitent and
zealous for his Master's honour, the lately rough
sailor was softened, and began to inculcate in the
minds of the young people about him the love
and fear of God. He prayed for them, and for
himself. He observed the rules of the Chinch
120 SOCIETY'S EFFORTS FOR PITCAIHN.
of England, always had morning and evening
prayers, and taught the children the Collects,
the Catechism, and other portions of the Prayer-
book. He was very particular in hearing them
say the Lord's Prayer and the Apostles' Creed.
The youthful pupils took such delight in Adams's
instructions, that on one occasion, on his offering
to two of the lads, Arthur Quintal and Robert
Young, some compensation for their labour in
preparing ground for planting yams, they pro-
posed, that, instead of his giving the present
held out to them, consisting of a small quantity
of gunpowder, he should teach them some extra
lessons out of the Bible, a request with which
he joyfully complied.
He exhorted the people, before going out fish-
ing, or proceeding on any dangerous enterprise,
to pray to God for his protection and blessing.
On one occasion, he and some of the Otaheitan
women went out fishing on the south side of the
island. The surf became heavy, and broke their
canoe. To ascend the precipice was impossible.
Their only alternative was, as Adams told them,
to commit themselves by prayer to their Maker,
and swim to a rock some distance from the land,
and again swim to another part of the island.
This they did ; and at last they all reached the
shore in safety.
Adams, in the latter part of his life, was very
fond of reading a book published by the Society
for Promoting Christian Knowledge, entitled,
" The Knowledge and Practice of Christianity ;
an Instruction for the Indians, by the Bight
Kev. Dr. Wilson, Bishop of Sodor and Man."
SOCIETY'S EFFORTS FOR PITCAIRN. 121
The reader may feel desirous of learning how
this " Instruction for the Indians" had reached
the island. It is satisfactory to find that
Pitcairn's Island, as long since as the year
1819, partook of the benefits conferred by the
Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge. In
the Society's transactions for that year, ten
years before Adams's death, the following parti-
culars appear, under the head of the Report from
Calcutta; the Right Reverend Dr. Middleton
being then Bishop of Calcutta, and President of
the Calcutta Diocesan Committee :
"In July 1819, an opportunity having oc-
curred of communicating with the little colony
on Pitcairn s Island in the South Pacific Ocean,
by the departure from Calcutta of the ship
Hercules for that place, the Committee were
unwilling to lose so interesting an occasion of
adding to the various benevolent contributions
made for the use of those islanders. It having
been intimated that a ^supply of Bibles had been
furnished by another Committee, the Diocesan
Committee made such a selection of other books
and tracts as. appeared most suited to the situ-
ation of these people, which, together with
New Testaments, Prayer-books, and children r s
school-books, were placed under the care of
Captain Henderson, accompanied by the follow-
ing letter, addressed to John Adams and the
other islanders, and dated Calcutta, July 15th,
1819:
122 SECRETARY'S LETTER.
' To John Adams, and others on Pitcairns Island.
' It is with peculiar pleasure that I take an
opportunity of sending to you by Captain Hen-
derson, of the ship Hercules, a small stock of
religious books, of which, probably, your society
on Pitcairn's Island may stand much in need.
They are a present from a Committee of the
Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge,
established in this country , and I am sure that
the prayers of this Committee attend their pre-
sent, that the books may lead to the advance-
ment of you all in religious knowledge, and in
Christian holiness of life. You will find books
of instruction fitted for all ages ; and may God
Almighty prosper you in the use of them!
' At some future time, perhaps not very dis-
tant, you may find opportunities of imparting
the knowledge which you acquire, to the natives
of other islands, in which the name of Jesus
Christ is not known ; and may become blessed
instruments in the hand of God for extending
the kingdom of his Son our Lord. I trust that
you will eagerly seize any such occasion ; and
that by the example of your own lives, and by
bringing up your children in habits of piety
and virtue, you will recommend the Christian
religion to others, as the only means of attaining
true happiness here and hereafter. The Com-
mittee would be very glad to hear of the welfare
of your little society; and I am, with every
good wish and prayer, your faithful Servant,
'J. HAWTAYNE, Joint Secretary:]
EXE11TIONS OF ADAMtf. 123
Adams was no ordinary man, or lie could
never have accomplished the arduous task
which he had undertaken to perform. His
work as a teacher must have been all the more
laborious from his having had little or no in-
struction in his early days. It is said that he
had never been at school. His brother Jonathan
was a waterman in London; and from him
John sometimes received letters directed to
him at Pitcairn. Struggling against all his
difficulties, John Adams gained the best and
most useful kind of knowledge, the knowledge
of God, and of Jesus Christ whom He hath
sent. Having happily learned how to impart
that knowledge to others, he left a name,
the memory of which is cherished beyond the
borders of his little island. He not only at-
tended to the young, but if any of the older
inhabitants wanted counsel, he gave it ; if they
were ill, he went and prayed with them. By a
steadfast adherence to the line of duty which he
had marked out for his conduct, he could not
but perceive that the blessing of God was
upon his labours. The fruits of good became
apparent in a place where indifference to re-
ligion and looseness of morals had prevailed ;
and when we consider the latter part of his
pilgrimage, and the filial reverence with which
he was regarded by his juniors, we may conclude
that this island-pat rial ch had much to cheer and
encourage him, amidst the trials and sorrows
which had fallen upon him. Amongst the most
comfortable feelings of his heart, as the end
of his existence drew on, was probably the
124 CAUSES OP ALARM.
well-grounded hope that the rising generation
would fear God, and keep His commandments.
Looking at the improved condition of the people,
st previously to his death, which happened in
arch, 1829, when he was sixty-five years of
age, he might well have been gladdened by the
prospect of the continuance among them of those
firm and solid principles of true religion, which
had been fixed upon a sure foundation, and
which form a topic of honourable mention at
this very time.
Much of Adams's trouble and anxiety in
former years naturally arose from the fear of
being discovered and taken. In May, 1795, he
and. his brother mutineers, having observed a
ship nearing the island, in their terror hid
themselves in the bush. Having, after some
time, cautiously left their place of concealment,
they proceeded to the beach, where they found a
knife, and a few cocoa-nut shells, proving that
some persons had landed. The visitors^ how-
ever, it would seem, had not noticed any signs of
houses, and had therefore left the island without
further search.
CHAPTER V.
THE CHRONOMETER OP THE BOUNTY DESCRIPTION OP THE
STATE OP PITCAIRN IN 1814, AND SUBSEQUENT TEARS
ACCOUNT GIVEN BY SIR THOMAS STAINES BY ADMIRAL
BEECHEY EMIGRATION TO OTAHEITE IN 1831 QUEEiC
POMARE HER LETTER TO QUEEN VICTORIA.
ON Captain Mayhew Folger's departure from
Pit cairn, after his visit there in 1808, in the
American ship Topaz, he carried away a Ken-
dall's chronometer, and an azimuth compass,
both of which had belonged to the Bounty. In
a letter to the Lords of the Admiralty, dated
Nantucket, March 1st, 1813, Folger stated that
the " time-keeper " and compass had been pre-
sented to him, on his leaving the island, by
John Adams. He added that this time-keeper,
after being in his possession about six weeks,
had been taken from him by the governor of the
island of Juan Fernandez. The compass he
forwarded to their Lordships.
The time-keeper, or chronometer, had been,
previously to this, twice carried out by Captain
Cook, in his voyages of discovery. In 1776,
when the Resolution was in the course of equip-
ment for her voyage, " The Board of Longitude
S.t into the possession of Captain Cook, and
r. King, his second lieutenant, the time-keeper
126 THE CHRONOMETER OF THE BOUNTY.
which Captain Cook had carried out in his last
voyage, and which had performed so well. It
was constructed by Mr. Kendall, and was a copy
of Mr. Harrison's." *
This time-keeper was taken out again by
Captain Bligh in 1787 ; and, after the mutiny on
board the Bounty, was carried by the mutineers
to Pitcairn's Island. According to May hew
Folger's statement, it was in the possession of
the governor of Juan Fernandez in 1808. It
was afterwards sold in Chili ; and subsequently
came into the possession of Alexander Cald-
cleuch, Esq., of Valparaiso, of whom Captain
Herbert, K.N. (now Admiral Sir Thomas Her-
bert) purchased it, in 1840, for fifty guineas.
That officer, who then commanded the Calliope,
had the instrument repaired at Valparaiso, took
it with him to China, and, in 1843, brought it
home in the Blenheim. It was exhibited in the
Royal Institution, Albemarle-street, in 1844.
It is six inches in diameter, with three dials
on its face ; one for hours, one for minutes, and
one for seconds ; with a massive outer silver
case, made as the outer cases of pocket watches
were, eighty or ninety years since ; so that its
appearance is that of a gigantic watch. It has
" Larcum Kendall, London," inscribed on the
face. The same name, and the date, A.D.
1771, are engraved inside. It is at present in
the United Service Museum, Scotland-yard,
Whitehall-place, London, Sir Thomas Herbert
having presented it to that institution. This
* Captain Cook's Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, in 1766,
vol. i. p. 3. Ed. 1784.
LETTER FROM~SIR T.~ STAINES. 127
chronometer is an object of exceeding interest
to those who view it with reference to its history,
in connexion with the Resolution and the Bounty.
The author will, therefore, be forgiven for his
minuteness on the subject of this relic
No further notice was taken of Pitcairn's
island, nor of its inhabitants, until 1814, when
his Majesty's ships Briton and Tagus, Captain
Sir Thomas Staines, and Captain Pipon, being
in search of an American ship of war, the Essex,
which had been seizing some of our whaling
vessels, arrived at the spot. Adams, upon
this, supposed that his time was come, and that
he should be carried away. Although much
alarmed, he did not attempt concealment, but
presented himself to the officers, who soon re-
assured him, by saying that he was not to be
arrested; the time was past for that; he had
been a quarter of a century on the island, and
his presence was useful to the islanders.
,The condition of the place and people at that
'date cannot be better described than by Sir T.
Staines, in his own words, in a letter addressed
by him to Vice- Admiral Manley Dixon :
" Briton, Valparaiso, Oct. 18, 1814.
, " SIR, I have the honour to inform you that
on my passage from the Marquesas Islands to
this point, on the morning of the 17th Septem-
ber, I fell iu with an island where none is laid
down in the Admiralty or other charts, accord-
ing to the several chronometers of the Briton
I
128 LETTER FROM SIR T.
and Tagus. I therefore hove-to until daylight,
and then closed, to ascertain whether it was
inhabited, which I soon discovered it to be, and,
to my great astonishment, found that every
individual on the island (forty in number)
spoke very good English. They proved to be
the descendants of the deluded crew of the
Bounty, which from Otaheite proceeded to the
above-mentioned island, where the ship was
burnt.
" Christian appeared to have been the leader,
and the sole cause of the mutiny in that ship.
A venerable old man, named John Adams, is
the only surviving Englishman of those who last
quitted Otaheite in her, and whose exemplary
conduct, and fatherly care of the whole little
colony, could not but command admiration. The
pious manner in which all those born on the
island have been reared, the correct sense of
religion which has been instilled into their
young minds by this old man, has given him
the pre-eminence over the whole of them, to
whom they look up as the father of the whole,
and one family.
" A son of Christian was the first born on
the island, now about twenty-five years of age
(named Thursday October Christian) ; the elder
Christian fell a sacrifice to the jealousy of an
Otaheitan man, within three or four years after
their arrival on the island. They were accom-
panied thither by six Otaheitan men and twelve
women ; the former were all swept away by
desperate contentions between them and the
Englishmen, and five of the latter have died at
BRITON AND TAGUS. 129
different periods, leaving at present only one man
and several women of the original settlers.' ,
" The island must, undoubtedly, be that called
Pitcairn, although erroneously laid down in the
charts. We had the meridian sun close to it,
which gave us 25 deg. 4 min* S. latitude, and
130 deg. 25 min. W. longitude, by chrono-
meters of the Briton and Tagus. It is abundant
in yams, plantains, hogs, goats, and fowls, but
affords no shelter for a ship or vessel of any
description; neither could a ship water there
without great difficulty.
" I cannot refrain from offering my opinion
that it is well worthy the attention of our
laudable religious Societies, particularly that for
propagating the Christian religion, the whole of
the inhabitants speaking the Otaheitan tongue
as well as English. During the whole of the
time they have been on the island, only one
ship has ever communicated with them, which
took place about six years since, by an American
ship, called the Topaz, of Boston, Mayhew
Folger, master. The island is completely iron-
bound, with rocky shores, and landing in boats
at all times difficult, although safe to approach
within a short distance in a ship.
(Signed) " T. STAINES."
It is remarkable, that in this letter John
Adams should have been styled a "venerable
old man." He was then only fifty years of
age. But he had suffered much anxiety. For
a long period of his life he had been a stranger
to security; and his weather-beaten face bore
i2
130 BRITON AND TAGUS.
marks of a more advanced age than that which
he had attained. He is mentioned in Bligh's
description, as very much pitted with the small-
pox, and tattooed on his body, legs, arms,
and feet.
As the real position of the island was ascer-
tained to be far distant from that in which it
had been usually laid down in the charts, and
as Sir T. Staines and Captain Pipon seem to
have still considered it as uninhabited, they
were not a little surprised, on approaching its
shores, to behold plantations regularly laid out,
and huts or houses more neatly constructed than
those of the Marquesas Islands. When about
two miles from the landing-place, some natives
were observed bringing down their canoes on
their shoulders, dashing through a heavy surf,
and paddling off to the ships ; but the astonish-
ment of our sailors was unbounded on hearing
one of the natives, on approaching the ship,
call out in the English language, " Won't you
heave us a rope, now?"
The first man who got on board the Briton
soon proved who they were. His name, he said>
was Thursday October Christian, the first born
on the island,* son of Fletcher Christian. He
was then about twenty-five years of age, a fine
young man, about six feet high, his hair deep
black, his countenance open and interesting, of
a brownish cast, but free from all that mixture
of a reddish tint which prevails on the Pacific
islands; his only dress was a piece of cloth
* He was born on a Thursday in October.
INTERVIEW WITH ADAMS. 131
round his loins, and a straw hat, ornamented
with the black feathers of the domestic fowl.
" With a great share of good humour,* 7 says
Captain Pipon, " we were glad to trace in his
benevolent countenance all the features of an
honest English face. I must confess," he con-
tinues, " I could not survey his interesting
person without feelings of tenderness and com-
passion. His companion was named George
Young, a fine youth of seventeen or eighteen
years of age."
If the astonishment of the captains was great
on hea,ring their first salutation in English, their
surprise and interest were not a little increased,
on Sir Thomas Staines taking the youths below
and setting before them something to eat, when
one of them rose up, and placing his hands
together in a posture of devotion, distinctly
repeated, and in a pleasing tone and manner,
" For what we are going to receive, the Lord
make us truly thankful ! '
They expressed great surprise on seeing a
cow on board the Briton, and were in doubt
whether she was a great goat, or a horned sow.
The two captains of his Majesty's ships ac-
companied these young men on shore. With
some difficulty arid a good wetting, and with
the assistance of their conductors, they ac-
complished a landing through the surf, and
were soon after met by John Adams, who
conducted them to his house. His wife accom-
panied him, an old person, blind and infirm.
He was at first alarmed, lest the visit was to
apprehend him; but on being told that they
132 APPEARANCE AND DEPORTMENT.
had been perfectly ignorant of his existence, he
was relieved from his anxiety. Being once
assured that the visit was of a peaceable nature,
it is impossible to describe the joy these poor
people manifested on seeing those whom they
were pleased to consider as their countrymen.
Yams, cocoa-nuts, and other fruits, with fine
fresh eggs, were laid before them ; and Adams
would have killed and dressed a hog for his
visitors, but time would not allow them to
partake of the intended feast.
This interesting settlement then consisted of
about forty-six persons, mostly grown-up young
people, besides a number of infants. The young
men (all born on the island) were very athletic,
and of fine forms, their countenances open and
pleasing, indicating much benevolence and good-
ness of heart ; but the young women were
objects of particular admiration ; tall, robust,
and well-formed, their faces beaming with
smiles, and unruffled good humour, but wearing
a degree of modesty and bashfulness that would
do honour to the most virtuous nation on earth.
Their teeth, like ivory, were regular and beauti-
ful, without a single exception ; and all of them,
both male and female, had the most marked
English features.
The following pleasing account appeared in
the Quarterly Review :
They sometimes wreath caps or bonnets
for the head, in the most tasty manner, to
protect the face from the rays of the sun ; and
though, as Captain Pipon observes, they have
only*" had the ~ instruction of their Otaheitan
OCCUPATIONS. 133
mothers, our dressmakers in London would be
delighted with the simplicity, and yet elegant
taste, of these untaught females.
Their native modesty, assisted by a proper
sense of religion and morality, instilled into
their youthful minds by John Adams, had
hitherto preserved these interesting people pure
and uncorrupted.
They all labour, while young, in the culti-
vation of the ground ; and when possessed of a
sufficient quantity of cleared land, and of stock
to maintain a family, they are allowed to marry,
but always with the consent of Adams.
The greatest harmony prevailed in this little
society ; their only quarrels (and these rarely
happened) being, according to their own expres-
sion, quarrels of the mouth. They are honest in
their dealings, which consist of bartering different
articles for mutual accommodation.
Their habitations are extremely neat. The
little village of Pitcairn forms a pretty square,
the houses at the upper end of which are occu-
pied by the patriarch John Adams and his
family, consisting of his old blind wife and
three daughters, from fifteen to eighteen years
of age, and a boy of eleven; a daughter of his
wife by a former husband, and a son-in-law.
On the opposite side is the dwelling of Thursday
October Christian, and in the centre is a smooth
verdant lawn, on which the poultry are let loose,
fenced in so as to prevent the intrusion of the
domestic quadrupeds. All that was done was
obviously undertaken on a settled plan, unlike
anything to be met with on the other islands.
134 AGRICULTURE.
In their houses they had a good deal of decent
furniture, consisting of beds laid upon bedsteads,
with neat coverings : they had also tables, and
large chests to contain their valuables and
clothing, which is made from the bark of a
certain tree, prepared chiefly by the elder Ota-
heitan females. Adams's house consisted of
two rooms, and the windows had shutters to
pull to at night. The younger part of the sex
are? as before stated, employed with their
brothers, under the direction of Adams, in the
culture of the ground, which produced cocoa-
nuts, bananas, the bread-fruit tree, yams, sweet
potatoes, and turnips. They have also plenty
of hogs and goats ; the woods abound with
a species of wild hog, and the coasts of the
Island with several kinds of good fish.
Their agricultural implements are made by
themselves, from the iron supplied by the
Bounty, which with great labour they beat out
into spades, hatchets, &c. This was not all.
The old man kept a regular journal, in which
was entered the nature and quantity of work
performed by each family, what each had re-
ceived, and what was due on account. There
was, it seemed, besides private property, a sort
of general stock, out of which articles -were
issued on account to the several members of the-
cornmunity; and, for mutual accommodation,
exchanges of one kind of provision for another
were very frequent, as salt for fresh provisions,
vegetables and fruit for poultry, fish, &c. ; also,
when the stores of one family were low, or
vrholly expended, a fresh supply was raised
ADMIRAL BEECHEY'S ACCOUNT, 135
from another, or out of the general stock,
to be repaid when circumstances were more
favourable.*
The name of John Adams is so closely
identified with Pitcairn's Island, and so much
of the present happy state of the people is
owing, under the Divine blessing, to him, that
it is difficult to say too much on this part of the
subject. The description given by the late Ad-
miral Beechey of Adams, as well as of the young
islanders, who came out in a boat to the Blossom,
when off the island in December, 1825, is so
graphic, that it must be quoted in the excellent
author's own words :
" They sprang up the side, and shook every
officer by the hand, with undisguised feelings
of gratification. The activity of the young
men outstripped that of old Adams, who was,
consequently, almost the last to greet us. He
was unusually strong and active for his age,
notwithstanding the inconvenience of consider-
able corpulency. He was dressed in a sailor's
shirt and trowsers, and a low-crowned hat,
which he instinctively held in his hand until
desired to put it on. He still retained his
sailor's gait, doffing his hat, and smoothing
down his bald forehead, whenever he was ad-
dressed by the officers. It was the first time
he had been on board a ship of war since the
mutiny, arid his mind naturally reverted to
scenes which could not fail to produce a tempo-
rary embarrassment, heightened, perhaps, by
the _ familiarity with which he found himself
See Quarterly Review, voL iii. p. 378, &c.
136 DESCRIPTION OF YOUNG ISLANDERS.
addressed by persons of a class with those
whom he had been accustomed to obey. Ap-
prehension for his safety formed no part of
his thoughts : he had received too many de-
monstrations of the good feeling that existed
towards him, both on the part of the British
Government and of individuals, to entertain any
alarm on that head ; and as every person endea-
voured to set his mind at rest, he very soon
made himself at home.
" The young men, ten in number, were tall,
robust, and healthy, with good-natured counte-
nances, which would anywhere have procured
them a friendly reception ; and with a simplicity
of manner, and a fear of doing wrong, which at
once prevented the possibility of giving offence.
Unacquainted with the world, they asked a
number of questions, which would have applied
better to persons with whom they had been
intimate, and who had left them but a short
time before, than to perfect strangers; and
inquired after ships and people we had never
heard of. Their dress, made up of the presents
which had been given them by the masters and
seamen of merchant ships, was a perfect carica-
ture. Some had long black coats, without any
other article of dress, except trowsers ; some,
shirts without coats ; and others, waistcoats
without either; none had shoes or stockings,
and only two possessed hats, neither of which
seemed likely to hang long together."
The following picture of filial affection, drawn
by a careful and intelligent observer, is well
worthy of insertion. Captain Beechey, anxious
FILIAL AFFECTION 137
to visit the houses at Pitcairn, rather than pass
another night at sea, determined to put off with
some of his men in boats, and to accompany
Adams and the islanders on shore. He says :
" The difficulty of landing was more than repaid
by the friendly reception we met with on the
beach from Hannah Young, a very interesting
young woman, the daughter of Adams. It ap-
peared that John Buffett, who was a seafaring
man, ascertained that the ship was a man-of-
war ; and. not knowing exactly why, became so
alarmed for the safety of Adams, tjiat he either
could not, or would not, answer any of the inter-
rogations which were put to him. This mys-
terious silence set all the party in tears, as they
feared he had discovered something adverse to
their patriarch. At length his obduracy yielded
to their entreaties ; but before he explained the
cause of his conduct, the boats were seen to put
off from the ship, and Hannah immediately
hurried to the beach to kiss the old man's cheek,
which she did with a fervency demonstrative of
the warmest affection."
Beechey observes, that Adams on no occa-
sion neglected his usual devotions. The old
man, while on board the Blossom, slept in that
officer's cabin, in a retired corner of which he
fell on his knees each night to say his prayers,
and was always up first in the morning for the
same purpose. The same writer, who made
many highly valuable notes respecting the cha-
racter and customs of the people in 1825, gives
the following remarkable account of them :
" l During the whole time I was with them,
138 REVERENCE FOR THE LOlfo'S DAY.
I never heard them indulge in a joke or other
levity ; and the practice of it is apt to give
offence. They are so accustomed to take what
is said in its literal meaning, that irony was
always considered a falsehood, in spite of ex-
planation. They could not see the propriety of
uttering what was not strictly true, for any
purpose whatever. The Sabbath-day is devoted
entirely to prayer, reading, and serious medita-
tion. No boat is allowed to quit the shore, nor
any work whatever to be done, cooking except ed,
for which preparation is made the preceding
evening. I attended their church on this day,
and found the service well conducted. The
prayers were read by Adams, and the lessons by
Buffett ; the service being preceded by hymns.
The greatest devotion was apparent in every
individual, and in the children there was a
seriousness unknown in the younger part of our
communities at home. In the course of the
iLitany they prayed for their sovereign, and all
!the royal family, with much apparent loyalty and
sincerity. Some family prayers, which were
thought appropriate to their particular case, were
added to the usual service ; and Adams, fearful
of leaving out any essential part, read in addition
those prayers which are intended only as substi-
tutes for otherSo * A sermon followed, which was
very well delivered by Buffett; and, lest any
part of it should be forgotten, or* escape attention,
it was read three times. The whole concluded
with hymns, which. were first sung by the grown
people, and afterwards by the children. The
service thus performed was very long ; but the
EARL WALDEGRAVE'S ACCOUNT. 139
neat and cleanly appearance of the congregation,
the devotion that animated every countenance,
and the innocence and the simplicity of the little
children, prevented the attendance from becoming
wearisome. In about half-an-hour afterwards,
we again assembled to prayers. They may be
said to have church five times on a Sunday.
" All that remains to be said of these excellent
people is, that they appear to live together in
perfect harmony and contentment; to be vir-
tuous, religious, cheerful, and hospitable beyond
the limits of prudence ; to be patterns of conjugal
and parental affection, and to have very few
vices. We remained with them many days,
and their unreserved manners gave us the fullest
opportunity of becoming acquainted with any
faults they might have possessed.'' *
In the year 1830, the Hon. W, Waldegrave,
Captain of H.M.S. Seringapatam, touched at
Pitcairn's Island. The following extracts from
a letter of this officer, now Earl Waldegrave,
will show that the moral and religious training
of the rising generation had been well attended
to subsequently to John Adam's death :
"PITCAIRN'S ISLAND, March 17, 1830.
"On the 15th of March I landed at this
island, and was friendly and hospitably received
by George Nobbs and all the inhabitants. My
officers and men were most kindly treated at
breakfast and dinner, and slept in their houses.
My crew received a supply of cocoa-nuts and
* Captain F \V. Beechey's "Narrative of a Voyage to the
Pacific and Behring's Straits;" a work of much interest.
140 EARL WALDEGRAVE'S ACCOUNT.
fruits. I had the gratification to hear William
Quintal say part of the Catechism,, and answer
several questions as to his knowledge of the
redemption in Christ, and of the different habits
of the Jews, their sects and diseases, perfectly,
clearly, and distinctly showing that he under-
stood their meaning. I also heard two little
girls repeat part of a hymn, which showed to me
how well they had been instructed ; and lastly,
I attended at their evening prayers. I can
only trust that the God who preserves this
island and its inhabitants from foreign injury,
may keep them alive in the true faith of Jesus
Christ in purity and peace; so that each per-
son, at his death, may quit this world in the
expectation of being for ever in heaven, through
the merits of Jesus Christ, It was.^vith very
great satisfaction that I observed ths Christian
simplicity of these natives. They appeared to
have no guile. Their cottages were open to
all, and all were welcome* to their food; the
pig, the fowl was killed and dressed instantly ;
the beds were ready ; each was willing to show
any and every part of the island, Before
they began a meal, all joined hands in the
attitude of prayer, with eyes raised to heaven ;
and one recited a simple grace, grateful for the
present food, but beseeching spiritual nourish-
ment. Each answered, Amen, and after a pause
the meal began. At the conclusion, another
grace was offered up. Should any one arrive
during the repast, all ceased to eat. The new
guest said grace, to which each repeated, Amen, .
and then the meal continued/ 7
EMIGRATION TO OTAHEITE, 141
There having been the fear of a want of
water } at Pitcairn in 1831, the people, eighty-
seven in number, were removed from the island
to Otaheite, by order of the British Government,
in the barque, * Lucy * -Anne, sent from Sydney 9
New South Wales. On being landed at Otaheite
on March 23d, they were well received by Queen
Pomare'.
Captain Sandilands, of ELM.S. Comet, in his
despatch to Kear-Admiral Sir E. W. Owen,
K.C,B., gave an interesting report of this case
of emigration, and of the manner in which the
voyagers were welcomed by Queen Pomare,
who was then, and is still, the ruling sovereign
of Otaheite. At her Majesty's desire, Captain
Sandilands landed the people of Pitcairn at her
residence, about three miles from the anchorage,
where houses were provided for them, until she
gave up for their temporary use a large dwell-
ing belonging to herself in the town of Papiete.
A tract of rich land was also marked out, as
a desirable territory for their future residence.
Having assembled the chiefs of the district, the
Queen, in a speech, formally announced that she
had assigned this land to her guests from Pit-
cairn, giving directions at the same time that
her people should immediately commence the
construction of houses for the new comers. In
showing this hospitality, she appears to have
consulted her own kind disposition, and also to
have endeavoured to fulfil the promises given by
her father, the late King Pomare, who had pro-
mised them welcome and protection in case of
need. Nor was this good feeling confined to the
142 LETTER TO HER BRITANNIC MAJESTY.
Queen. Much regard was generally shown by
the Otaheitans, who sought out with diligence
whether there might not be relations among
their guests. In one instance a woman came a
considerable distance, and discovered in one of
the four remaining women a long-absent sister.
The fact of, Queen Pomare having been en-
gaged in a troublesome civil war at the time of
the visit of the islanders, places her kindness
and attention to them in a still more pleasing
light. ^
This is the Queen Pomare, who, early in
1843, complained to her Majesty Queen Vic-
toria of the proceedings of the French, in
threatening her peace and government. There
is much pathos and simplicity in the Otaheitan
Queen's mode of address to her "Sister and
Friend." The following are extracts from her
letter, literally translated :
" TAHITI, January 23, 1843.
" My dear Fripnd and Sister, Queen Victoria,
Queen of Great Britain, Health and peace to
you ! And saved may you be by Jehovah, the
Foundation of our power as Queens of our re-
spective countries. We dwell in peace by the
arrangements made by our predecessors.
" This is my speech to you, my sister friend.
Commiserate me in my affliction, in my help-
lessness, in which my nation is involved with
France.
" The existing protectorate government of
France in my dominions I do not acknowledge.
I knew nothing of what my chiefs and the
LETTER TO HER BRITANNIC MAJESTY. 143
French Consul had done before I wrote to you
by Captain Jones, I being absent at Raiate."
After bemoaning the dependent state into
which she had been thrown by French interven-
tion, and the political movements of her chiefs,
she proceeds :
u And now, my friend, think of me, have
compassion on me, and assist me ; let it be
powerful, let it be timely and saving, that I
may be reinstated in my government.
4; Have compassion on me in my present >
trouble, in my affliction, and great helplessness.
Do not cast me away ; assist me quickly, my
friend. I run to you for refuge, to be covered
under your great shadow, the same as afforded
to my fathers by your fathers, who are now
dead, and whose kingdoms have descended to
us the weaker vessels. I renew that agreement.
Let it be lasting and for ever. Let its con-
tinuance extend not only to ourselves and
children, but to our children's children. My
friend, do not by any means separate our friend-
ship. This is my true wish.
" I now deliver up to you, my friend, my last
effort. My only hope of being restored is in
you. Be quick to help me, for I am nearly 1
dead. I am like a captive pursued by a warrior
and nearly taken, whose spear is close to me.
The time is very nigh, when, I fear, I shall lose
my government and my land.
" My friend, send quickly a large ship of war
to assist me. A French ship of war is daily
expected here. Speedily send a ship of war to
protect me ? and I shall be saved. It is my
K
144 QUEEN POMARE:
wish that the Admiral may speedily come to
Tahiti. If he cannot speedily come, I wish a
large ship of war may come just at this present
time. Continually send here your ships of war.
Let not one month pass away without one, until
all my present difficulties are over.
" I have also at this time written a letter to
your Admiral on the Spanish coast, to come to
Tahiti and assist me. Health and peace to you!
May you be blessed, my sister friend, Queen of
Great Britain, &c.
" POMARE, Queen of Tahiti"
Queen Pomar, however, and her people soon
felt the power of the French, who erected a fort,
commanding the entrance to the harbour of
Otaheite. They have a frigate and a war-
steamer anchored there, and a military force on
vthe island. The Queen is married, and has
'children. She adopted the late Eeuben Nobbs,
the Pastor's eldest son, but never ^removed him
from the care of his parents.
CHAPTER VI,
RETURN OF THE PITCAIRN EMIGRANTS TO THEIR ISLAND IN
1833 POPULATION OP PITCAIRN THE QUEEN'S BIRTHDAY
ACCIDENT ON THE ISLAND LOYALTY OF THE ISLANDERS
THEIR RULES AND CUSTOMS THE ISLANDERS' DAY AT
PITCAIRN RECEPTION OF VESSELS TOUCHING AT THE ISLAND
HOSPITALITY TO STRANGERS MR. CARLETON'S MUSICAL
CLASS.
THE Pitcairn emigrants did not remain long at
Otaheite. Their health suffered in the new cli-
mate ; and the licentious habits of the place proved
distasteful to that well-ordered Christian commu-
nity. It was owing to this, as well as to the
love of country, which is a powerful principle at
Pitcairn, that the people soon found their way
back to their own home. When the British
ship Challenger touched at Otaheite in 1833,
it appeared that all whom death had spared had
returned to Pitcairn. Some had yielded to the
temptations to intemperance. Sickness also had
become prevalent among them, and had carried
off twelve. Five died almost immediately after
their return home.
It was partly in consequence of the failure of
the scheme of emigration of 1831, and partly
from the fear of interrupting the happy state in
which the people had so long lived on their be-
K2
146 EMIGRATION.
loved island, that their friends in this country
felt serious misgivings on hearing of the probable
necessity of the removal of the community from
Pitcairn, on the score of necessity. Captain
Fanshawe, who visited the islanders in 1849, had
written as follows: " I could not trace in any of
them the slightest desire to remove elsewhere.
On the contrary, they expressed the greatest
repugnance to do so, whilst a sweet potato re-
mained to them ; a repugnance much enhanced
by their emigration to Otaheite about eighteen
years ago.' 7 George Adams, the son of the
original John Adams, had declared subsequently
that he should prefer remaining, that he might,
when his time should come, die on his native
island, and be buried in the grave of his father.
Mr. Nobbs had said, in the hearing of the
author, in November, 1852, that as long as two
families should remain at Pitcairn, he would
remain also.
Until recently, however, the people had not
been encouraged by the hope, that in the event of
their crops failing, or their population increasing,
they might probably be transferred to some
more roomy spot, blest with a genial climate
and a fertile soil.
It will be seen, in the progress of this work,
that a scarcity of provisions, followed by general
illness at Pitcairn' s Island, in the year 1853, had
caused a strong feeling of the necessity for a
change of residence, and that this feeling had
ripened into an actual proposition from the com-
munity for a removal to Norfolk Island. It was a
part of their plan, should this petition be granted.
POPULATION. 147
that they might be allowed to live on Norfolk
Island in the same seclusion from the rest of the
world as they had hitherto done at Pitcairn.*
V But it is due to the reader to refrain from an-
ticipating the subject of this eventful history.
It was suggested in former editions of this work
that, if found needful, a certain amount of emi-
gration might take place, formed on the principle
of serving the interests of others, as well as of
the islanders themselves, by means of Christian
instruction and example ; the good leaven, thus
infused into other communities, being likely,
with God's blessing, to produce the happiest
effects upon them. It was observed, that such
means of Christian usefulness would, doubtless,
be within the reach of the people, whatever their
abode might be ; and that they might thus, at no
distant period, be the favoured instruments of
spreading Christianity and civilisation through-
out the numerous groups of islands in the
Southern Pacific Ocean.
By a census which appears to have been
taken on the occasion of the visit of the Juno,
Captain Fremantle, to the island, in the latter
part of September, 1855, the number of persons
inhabiting Pitcairn's Island was stated to have
been 187. All were natives of the place except
three : the Eev. Geo. H. Nobbs, John Buffett,
and John Evans. The only surnames on the
island were eight : namely, Adams, Christian,
M'Coy, Quintal, Young, Buffett, Evans, and
Nobbs. Brown, Martin, and Williams had no
children. John Mills left no son. The Ota-
* See Nautical Magazine, vol. xxv. p. 208, April, 185(5.
148
POPULATION.
heitan men met with early and violent deaths,
and left no children.
^ The original division of the island was into
nine parts, between the nine mutineers ; it was
afterwards subdivided into twenty -two; this being
the number of families on the island.
The following table, corrected to September
19, 1855, will present some useful statistics to
the reader with reference to the population :
q
"8
Pitcairn Islanders,
H >>
g'g
13
-1
I
i
bearing the names of
I
2
1
p
Nobbs .
14
6
8
4
10
Christian
49
27
22
12
37
Quintal
44
20
24
12
- 32
Young
24
11
13
10
14
Adams
17
11
6
5
12
M'Coy
11
2
9
3
8
Buffett
19
11
8
9
10
Evans
9
4
5
4
5
Total . .
187
92
95
59
128
In preparing the sheets for a new edition of
this work, after so great a change had been
made in the position and circumstances of the
community, the author felt some doubt as to
the best manner of relating the history. At
length he determined to describe Pitcairn and
the Pitcairners not in the past tense, but in the
present, as in former editions. There seems to
be greater propriety in adopting this course, as
the islanders in their habits and customs will
QUEEN VICTORIA'S BIRTHDAY. 149
probably continue to be at Norfolk Island such
as they were at Pitcairn.
Some little misunderstandings occasionally
arise as to boundaries- bufc these as well as
such other matters of dispute as now and then
occur, are generally soon settled by the chief
magistrate and the two councillors.
The owners of "this sceptred isle,"
" This precious stone set in the silver sea,"
avow a hearty allegiance to the Queen of Eng-
land. Her Majesty's birthday is observed as
an occasion of much joy. All the people as-
semble near the church, in holiday apparel ; the
bell is set ringing, and old and young unite in
singing loyal songs in honour of the day. By
their Pastor's account, not only the cheerful bell
is heard on this festive day, bufc it had been
usual to introduce the deep-mouthed gun to
assist at the solemnity. The history of this gun
is curious, and, in some respects, painful. It
once belonged to the Bounty, and was fished up
from the bottom of the sea in 1845, with one of
its companions, which had been spiked, and
which was therefore useless. The better of the
two, after remaining many fathoms deep for
five-and-fifty years, was much honeycombed,
and, when brought into use, was generally used
with caution.
It has been stated above, that H. M. steamer
Virago left Callao for Pitcairn, early in 1853,
on an errand of kindness. She arrived at the
island on the 24th of January.. The officers
150 ACCIDENT ON THE ISLAND.
and such of the crew as were landed were about
to take their leave. The Virago was the first
steam- vessel the people had ever seen, no
steamer having before visited Pitcairn ; and
they had enjoyed, by the Captain's invitation,
an agreeable excursion in the vessel round the
island. Captain Prevost had wished all fare-
well, and had gone on board to start for
Otaheite.
This was on January the 26th, 1853, when
a most serious accident occurred. The magi-
strate, Matthew M'Coy, and two others, Charles
Driver Christian and William Evans, were
employed in loading the old gun of the Bounty,
to salute the Virago, on her departure. The
rammer used was an old rafter, on the top of
which was a nail. Whilst Matthew was in the
act of ramming home the charge, the friction
caused by the nail effected the explosion of the
powder. He was blown away several yards from
the gun, and his arm was knocked to pieces.
The two other men were severely wounded.
Matthew's arm was carefully amputated ; but
the shock to the system was too severe ; and
after he had lingered twelve hours in great
agony, death put a period to his sufferings. He
bad the character of being a good man, and well
prepared for death. The other two, though
severely hurt, happily recovered, and were able
to attend Divine service on Easter-day, March
27th. Matthew M'Coy was a grandson of Wil-
liam M'Coy, the mutineer, and was about thirty-
five years of age. He was married to Margaret
Christian, a sister of Mrs. Nobbs, and had a
LOYALTY. 151
large family. The old gun has been spiked, and
will never be used again.
To return to a more cheerful portion of the
narrative. The scene presented by the assem-
blage of people on the Queen's birthday has
been depicted by a poet of their own. The
following stanzas by Mr. Nobbs, in one of his
national songs, produce a .pleasing sketch :
Ha ! that flash yon grove illuming,
Long impervious to the sun ;
Now the quick report comes booming
From the ocean-rescued gun.
Now the bell is gaily ringing,
Where yon white-robed train is seen ;
Now they all unite in singing,
GOD PRESERVE OUR GRACIOUS QUEEN !
In the year 1849, a Frenchman, of a military
air, and partly military costume, arriving, with
some other travellers, from the brig Fanny, was
courteously received by the islanders. With
the politeness characteristic of his countrymen,
he soon engaged in conversation with Mr.
Nobbs, and, in imperfect English, inquired,
Whether the people of Piteairn had heard of
Prince Louis Napoleon, and the French Re-
public? and the next question was, Would they
enlist themselves under it? Suiting the action
to the word, he took a paper for signatures from
his pocket.
He was briefly answered by Mr. Nobbs's
quietly pointing to the English flag, which
waved in the wind over their heads,
The flag that braved a thousand years
The battle and the breeze !
152 OFFICE OF MAGISTRATE.
The Pastor then assured him, that they knew
all about Louis Napoleon, and the French
Eepublic, but that all the people on the island
were loyal subjects of Victoria, Queen of Eng-
land. The Frenchman again bowed, begged
pardon, returned the paper to his pocket, and
explained, that " he did not know Pitcairn was
a colony,"
Though Pitcairn is not a colony, it is entirely
English ; and such a loyal and united commu-
nity, as a whole, cannot be found in any of the
colonies or dependencies of the British Empire.
The English union-ja,ck is hoisted on all grand
occasions; and to England the people would
look for protection, should any attempt be made
to interfere with their position. But who would
think of disturbing so inoffensive and so- poor a
settlement ?
Their leading man is a magistrate, who is
elected on the first of January every year, by the
general votes of males and females who have
attained the age of eighteen years. Married
persons, both males and females, though they
may be under that age, are entitled to vote,
Two councillors are chosen at the same time, one
elected by the magistrate, the other by the
people. When there is any dispute to be settled,
which cannot well be decided by the magistrate,
or by the magistrate and councillors combined,
a jury of seven is called, to whom the matter is
referred. Then, should it not be satisfactorily
arranged, it stands over until the arrival of a
British man-of-war ; and there is no appeal
against the Captain's decision. During the
OFFICE OF MAGISTRATE. 153
interval the matter drops, and no ill feeling re-
mains. ' It is a principle, with them, which was
specially urged upon them by John Adams,
never to let the sun go down upon their wrath.
What an example is conveyed in the practical
adherence to this Scriptural rule ! How simple
and effectual a mode of adjusting differences,
and preventing the growth of malice and all
uncharitableness !
The wise will let their anger cool,
At least before ' tis night ;
But in the bosom of a fool
It burns till morning light.
The office of magistrate is not coveted, it
being in some respects an invidious one. It
often happens that the person for whom this
honour is designed would rather be fined than
accept it. The fine generally consists in killing
a hog for the public good. The duties of the
magistracy are fulfilled without fear, favour, or
affection.
With respect to the general appearance of
the islanders, in their features and complexion,
as well as their dress and manners, they re-
semble the people of one of our English vil-
lages of the better order. A few of them are,
however, rather darker than the generality of
Europeans, partaking more of their half-Ota-
heitan descent.
A few words about dress. The women wear
a 'full petticoat, and above that a loose gown,
with a handkerchief thrown over the shoulders.
A wreath of flowers is often worn round the
head. There are many large trees on the island,
154 DRESS AND HABITS.
which produce small white flowers, much es-
teemed for their fragrance ; and of the flowers
of this tree (Morinda citrifolia} r or a mixture of
them with bright red flowers, the females make
their wreaths. Their hair is worn in bands,
and is brought up in a very becoming manner
into a knot cleverly twisted behind.
The men wear short trousers, the legs of which
are cat ofT two or three inches above the knee.
A shirt, and a cap or hat, complete their costume.
They seldom wear shoes or stockings, except on
Sundays.
The people live principally on vegetables,
having meat about once a- week ; and each
family gets fish once, and, occasionally, twice
a-week. The fishing is difficult and precarious,
as they have to seek the fish in very deep water,
often at the depth of 150 or 200 fathoms.
At the commencement of the yam-digging
season, in April, when there is much hard work
in prospect, and they require better food, and
more of it, each family, having a hog, kills it.
This is the period for the people to indulge,
beyond their usual custom, in animal food.
There are three burial-places on the island.
The funerals are always attended by every
member of the community, who is able to go
out of doors, even if the deceased should be but
an infant.
The children are early instructed in swim-
ming; and many of their sports are in the water.
They also learn to thread the difficult passes of
the rocks like so many young goats. The per-
sonal strength and activity of the men, which are
STRENGTH AND ACTIVITY. 155
described by Admiral Beecliey, as he observed
them in 1825, do not seem to be diminished at
the present day. The Lieutenant Belcher, men-
tioned in the subjoined extract, is now Captain
Sir E. Belcher, C.B.
" Two of the strongest men on the island,
George Young and Edward Quintal, have each
carried at one time, without inconvenience, a
kedge anchor, two sledge hammers, and an
armourer's anvil, amounting to upwards of six
hundredweight. Quintal, at another time, car-
ried a boat, twenty-eight feet in length. Their
activity on land has been already mentioned.
1 shall merely give another instance, which was
supplied by Lieut. Belcher, who was admitted
to be the most active among the officers on
board, and who did not consider himself behind-
hand in such exploits. He offered to accompany
one of the natives down a difficult descent, in
spite of the warning given by his friend, that he
was unequal to the task. They, however, com-
menced the perilous descent ; but Mr. Belcher
was obliged to confess his inability to proceed,
whilst his companion, perfectly assured of his
own footing, offered him his hand, and said he
would conduct him to the bottom, if he would
depend on him for safety. In the water they
are almost as much at home as on land, and can
remain nearly a whole day in the sea. They
frequently swam round their little island. When
the sea beat heavily on the island, they have
plunged into ,the breakers/ and swum to sea
beyond them. This they sometimes did, push-
ing a barrel of water before them, when it could
156 STRENGTH AND ACTIVITY,
be got off in no other way ; and in this manner
we procured several tuns of water, without a
single cask being stove."
The Rev. Wm. Armstrong, formerly Chaplain
at Valparaiso, and since resident in New Bruns-
wick, in a letter to the author from Valparaiso,
dated October, 1849, stated that an English
man-of-war, the Pandora, had lately arrived
direct from Pitcairn, and that the commander,
Lieut. Wood, arid the officers, had given the
most pleasing account of the happy state in
which the little community were living. They
were described as a remarkably strong and
healthy people. For instance, a young woman,
eighteen years of age, had been accustomed to
carry on her shoulders a hundred pounds weight
of yams over hills and precipitous places, and
for a considerable distance, where one unaccus-
tomed to such exercise would scarcely be able
to scramble. A man, sixty" years old, with ease
carried the surgeon of the Pandora up a steep
ascent from the landing-place, where he had
himself in vain attempted to mount, the ground
being very slippery from recent rains ; and
the officer being a large man, six feet high,
rendered it the more surprising. Indeed, Lieut.
Wood said he was himself borne aloft in the
arms of a damsel, and carried up the hill with
the utmost facility.
From the date of the first intelligence re-
specting the inhabitants of Pitcairn, there has
been no variation in the character given of them.
As they were, in those two great essentials of
human happiness, purity and peace, when Sir
GOOD CONDUCT OF VISITORS. 157
Thomas Staines visited the island in 1814, so
they are now in 1856, the same contented,
kind, and God-fearing race. Nor need we feel
surprise at this, however delighted we may be
with the picture. They are sensible of the trea-
sure which they possess in the Bible, and they
take it for their guide in the performance of
their duty towards God and their neighbour.
And they have learned to estimate the value
and excellency of the Book of Common Prayer,
which, as a faithful exponent of the revealed
word t)f God, has tended to keep them in the
unity of faith, in the bond of peace, and in
.righteousness of life.
The difficulty of landing On the island, and
the want of harbour and anchorage, though at
first sight a disadvantage, may have proved a
blessing, in preserving these simple-minded
people from the baneful effects too likely to
arise from crews remaining, as a matter of
course, among them. As it is, the behaviour
both of officers and men, who visit the place, is
stated to be most exemplary. No encourage-
ment is given to evil ; and no instance can be
quoted of the transgression, on the part of
visitors, of the sacred law of hospitality. On
the contrary, the good habits, and moral and
religious conduct of the islanders, do not fail to
produce, by the power of example, a wholesome
influence on strangers.
Jlf it be asked how the people pass their
me, and what they can have to do in a spot
whose utmost limit is barely four miles and a
half in circumference, comprising less of extent
-
158 THE PITCAIRNERS' DAY.
than Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens put
together, the question may be answered by a
description of the Piteairn Islanders 7 ordinary
day.
They rise early, generally as soon as it is
light. As the difference of longitude between
England and Piteairn is about 130 degrees, or
nearly nine hours in time, at seven in the
morning with them, it is about four in the after-
noon with us. Each house has early family
prayer, preceded by Scripture reading ; two
chapters of the Bible being generally selected
for the morning, and one for the evening. After
some slight refreshment, or none, (for they have
only two regular meals a-day,) the business of
the Pitcairners' day begins.
The young people are sent to school, in
pursuance of a law of the island ; and after the
" graver hours, that bring restraint, and sweeten
liberty," they have their needful food, and their
childish amusements. They are fond of flying
kites, and of games at ball ; though the want of
room on the island imposes a limit on the nature
and number of the out-of-door diversions both of
young and old. -
The occupation of the men consists in culti-
vating their land ; looking after their gardens ;
building and improving their houses, which are
neat, clean, and commodious; rearing stock;
fencing in their plantations ; manufacturing hats
from the leaf of the palm ; making fancy boxes,
&c.; which they keep in store for barter with
whalers, or other vessels which may call at
Piteairn for refreshment.
FISHING. 159
At about twelve o'clock, they have a plain
and substantial breakfast, or dinner, consisting
of yams and sweet potatoes, made into a kind of
bread, for which they do not fail to ask God's
blessing, and to render Him thanks.
Hand of bounty, largely spread,
By whom our every want is fed ;
Whate'er we touch, or taste, or see,
We owe them all, Lord, to Thee.
HEBER.
So strict is their observance of the duty of
saying grace before and after meals, that " we
do not know," says Captain Beechy, " of any
instance in which it has been forgotten. On one
occasion I had engaged Adams in conversation,
and he incautiously took the first mouthful
without having said his grace ; but before he
had swallowed it, he recollected himself, and,
feeling as if he had committed a crime, imme-
diately put away what he had in his mouth,
and commenced his prayer."
Fishing for a kind of cod, grey mullet, and
red snapper, though no very hopeful pursuit in
the deep water round the island, occasionally
forms part of the day's employment. Nor of the
day only ; for sometimes they go forth at night
among the rocks close to the sea, or row r out
in a canoe, and taking a light, attract the fish,
which they strike with a pole, armed with five
barbed prongs, and so take.
Suppose, however, the islander returned from
his day's labour to his supper, at about seven
o'clock in the evening. Except once or twice
-week, no fish, meat, or poultry will be found
L
160 NATIVE CLOTH.
to grace the "board, but yams and sweet potatoes,
and such humble fare as has been prepared by
the females of the family. For the women have
their daily task to perform ; some preparing the
ground, taking up yams, and doing other work
requiring diligence and strength. There being
no servants, the wives or daughters make and
mend the clothes, and attend to all the requisite
household affairs.
The women also manufacture tappa, or native
cloth, from the bark of the Anti, or paper-
mulberry, which is rolled up and soaked in
water, and then beaten out with wooden mallets,
and spread forth to dry.* This is very hard
work. The author has in his possession a piece
of beautifully. wrought white tappa, given him
by Mrs. Hey wood, and bearing a label, which
states that it was made by the wife of Fletcher
Christian, from the bark of the paper-mulberry
tree.. The piece from which this portion was
taken was entrusted by Christian's widow to
Captain Jenkin Jones, when he visited the
island, in her Majesty's ship Curagoa, in 184L
She particularly desired him to give it to Peter's
wife. Isabella, Fletcher Christian's widow, was
a native of Otaheite, and died, at a very advanced
age, in September, 1841.
The cooking is performed by the females.
Their cooking-places are apart from their dwell-
ings ; and there are no fire-places in any of the
houses. Baked, not roasted, meats are the
substantial luxuries of the table at Pitcairn.
* For a full account of the mode of making tappa, see
Cook's Voyage in 1777, &c. vol i. p. 201. Ed. 1784.
HOUSEHOLD ARRANGEMENTS. 161
Their ovens, like those at Otaheite, described
by Captain Cook, are formed with stones in the
ground. Captain Beechey says, that an oven is
made in the ground, sufficiently large to contain
a good-sized pig, and is lined throughout with
stones nearly equal in size. These, having
been made as hot as possible, are covered with
some broad leaves, generally of the ti-plant, and
on them is placed the meat. If it be a pig, its
inside is lined with heated stones, as well as the
oven. Such vegetables as are to accompany
the meal are then placed round the meat that
is to be dressed. The whole is covered with
leaves of the ti-plant, and buried beneath a heap
of earth, straw, or rushes and boughs, which
by a little use become matted into one mass.
In about an hour and a quarter, the meat is
sufficiently cooked.
There is much wisdom in the arrangement
regarding the absence of fire-places from their
wooden cottages. They are also sparing in
their use of lights in general. They have no
candles, but use oil, and torches made with nuts
of the Doodoe-tree (Aleurites triloba). They
have no glass for the windows. The shutters,
which serve the purpose of admitting light and
air, are closed in bad weather. For the most
part pure water, but, now and then, tea, consti-
tutes their drink. Cocoa-nut milk, and water
sweetened with syrup, extracted from the
bruised sugar-cane, vary the drinks of these
temperate people. No wines or spirits are ad-
mitted to the island, except in small quantities
for medicinal purposes. The water which they
L &
162 LITERATURE.
use does not come from springs, (there are
none in the island,) but from reservoirs or
tanks, neatly excavated, which collect the rain.
Of these there are five or six, holding from
three to four thousand gallons of water each,
sufficient not only for the consumption of the
inhabitants, but for supplies to whalers and
other vessels.
With respect to literary occupation, " You
will be glad to hear," wrote Mr. Armstrong to
the author, " that they are all well educated.
The young men are instructed in navigation,
and some of the lower branches of mathematics.
They all live together in the greatest harmony,
and in the strictest observance of religious
duties public, family, and private with every
appearance of perfect freedom from all crime,
and bearing the stamp of extreme innocence and
simplicity.
" A new regulation has been recently made
for the distribution of all their books among the
families, they having been before kept as
public property, as it was believed they would
be more read and valued in that way. Shelves
have been put up in all their houses, which are
very neat and comfortable, though more like
ship-cabins than dwelling-houses. The reason
they give for this arrangement is, that they are
in the habit of walking into each other's houses
with the same freedom as into their own ; and,
taking up a book, will sit down and read it
aloud, or not, as they feel disposed. The books
of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge
reached them in good time, some of which were
EVENINGS AT PITCAIRN. 163
particularly suitable ; there being several copies
of the same work, such as the Homilies and
others."
Considering the employment found by the
inhabitants, in the ways of industry above de-
scribed, and the advantage and amusement
derived from reading for the people have many
books of general literature, as well as publica-
tions of a directly religious character the day
cannot be said to hang heavy on their hands in
Pitcairn's Island.
How various his employment whom the world
Calls idle, and who justly in return
Esteems that busy world an idler too !
Friends, books, a garden, and perhaps his pen,
Delightful industry enjoy'd at home,
And Nature in her cultivated trim
Dress'd to his taste, inviting him abroad
Can he want occupation who has these ?
Will he be idle who has much t' enjoy ?
A life all turbulence and noise may seem,
To him that leads it, wise, and to be praised ;
But wisdom is a pearl, with most success
Sought in still water, and beneath clear skies.
COWPEE.
When the shades of evening draw on, the
islanders, one and all, again remember Him,
who is about their path and about their bed,
and spieth out all their ways. Nor are they
slow to acknowledge His claims, who expects
the grateful homage of His intelligent creatures,
and whose protection and blessing they beg in
family worship, before they lie down to sleep.
And then, without any thought of locks, bolts,
or bars, for they have no such defences, nor
any need of them, each may feel at night a
164 ARRIVAL OF SHIPS.
happy confidence in the protection and blessing
of that gracious Lord, who has guided and pre-
served them through the day.
Guarded by Thee, I lay me down,
My sweet repose to take ;
For I through Thee securely sleep,
Through Thee in safety wake.
But if they are active and cheerful on common
days, how great is their pleasure on descrying,
from the " Look-out Ridge" of their sea-girt
rock, a sail on the edge of the horizon ! and
what a stir does the arrival of a ship cause
among them! How different are the feelings
of the present islanders from those which pos-
sessed the inhabitants fifty or sixty years since !
Then they sought a place of concealment, when
they perceived a vessel heave in view ; now
they rejoice at the sight.
A short account of the reception of a ship on
their shores will interest the reader.
It is customary for each family, in turn, to
have the privilege of receiving as their guest
the captain of any vessel, whether a man-of-war,
or a whaler, which may happen to arrive. On
her appearance sufficiently near, the master of
the house, whose turn it is to be the host, goes
off in a canoe, and, after satisfactory answers to
questions as to the health of those on board, he
ascends the ship's side ; the canoe, which is but
a light affair, being quickly hauled up after
him. Most important are these inquiries ; for if
the small-pox, or any other infectious disorder,
should find its way into the island, dreadful
indeed would be the result. But when it is
CONSIGNMENT OF GOODS. 165
1 \
" all right," the ship's boat being lowered, the
captain, and five or six men, conducted by the
islander, who steers in the difficult parts, proceed
to Bounty Bay. Some persons are always ready
on the rocks to give a signal for the safe entrance '
of the boat, without which precaution serious
accidents would frequently occur.
The captain and his company having safely
landed, a?re at once greeted and attended by a
number of the natives, who have descended from
the village to the little beach. All then ascend
the hill; and the first walk is usually to the
school-house, where th;j strangers obtain a sight
of the island-register, and examine the shipping-
list, in which they enter the name of their own
vessel ; whence she has come, and whither she
is bound. After some preliminary conversation,
the representatives of the several families, one at
least from each house, assemble; and after a
hearty welcome, and the interchange of friendly
expressions, inquire what is wanted for the
vessel, as to vegetables, refreshments, &c. A
list is handed in of the articles in demand, such'
as yams, sweet potatoes, &c., the price of these
goods being always the same in time of scarcity
as of plenty. The inhabitants then, in their
turn, inquire of ^the^captain, what he has to
dispose of, This is generally found to be coarse
cotton cloths, soap, oil, &c., with perhaps some
small quantities of lead or iron- While the
captain is engaged in conversation with the
teacher, on matters "of mutual and general
interest, the health of the Queen being the first
in the series of questions and answers, the
166 FESTITE OCCASIONS.
inhabitants retire, and consult among themselves
what each person's proportion of the captain's
wants amounts to. This being settled, each
repairs to his own plantation to procure his part,
which in every instance is, as far as possible, an
equal share from each family.
Such is the reliance placed by visitors on the
honesty and integrity of the islanders, that in no
case does the captain think it necessary, either
himself or by proxy, to be present at the weigh-
ing or measuring of the articles required. One
of the islanders is appointed to remain at the
market-place, to take an account of the things
sent on board ; and the mode of dealing is
always cheerfully acceded to by the authorities
of the vessel. The articles are removed from
the market-place to Bounty Bay, where they
are deposited at the captain's risk, and from
whence they are conveyed in boats ; or, if the
surf is heavy, the goods are packed in casks,
which are conducted by the natives, who swim
with them through the heavy surf to the boats
lying outside the broken water.
It is the custom on festive occasions, when
the captain and his friends from the ship are
entertained at dinner, for the women to attend
upon the party at table. This is the exception
to the general rule : as, usually, when there are
no visitors, the men and women in a family
sit down together. But the attendance of the
females on strangers, and on their own relatives,
has been misapprehended by some travellers as a
mark of barbarism. Now, there must be some to
wait ; strangers must be hospitably served : and
FESTIVE OCCASIONS. 167
the younger women do these honours of their
island in the most attentive and good-humoured
manner. Here, again, the delicacy and good
sense of the islanders are to be admired. It
will be allowed that for husbands and brothers
to be attending upon their female relatives and
newly-landed guests, would be a less desirable
and becoming mode than that at present adopted.
In March 1850, five passengers of the barque
Noble , Captain H. Parker, bound from New
Zealand for California, were left by a mischance
on Pitcairn ; the vessel from which they had
landed having been blown off from her place
near the island during the night. She was
visible the next morning from the shore ; all the
people watching her movements with intense
anxiety. For some reason, however, (probably
the state of the weather,) when seeming to
approach the island, she suddenly changed her
Course, sailed away, and left her five passengers
behind. During the three weeks of their deten-
tion, which turned out to be a very agreeable
visit, the strangers, who had no property about
them but the clothes which they had on, re-
ceived every mark of sympathy and friendship.
One of these gentlemen, Mr. Walter Brodie,
whom Mr. Nobbs entertained as his guest, em-
ployed himself chiefly in gathering materials for
an account of the island, and its hospitable in-
habitants, which was afterwards published, and
to which allusion has already been made.
Two of the other guests, the Baron de Thierry,
and Mr. Hugh Carleton, especially the latter,
applied themselves to the task of teaching the
uc
- v <* a
, tli
168 MR. CARLETON'S MUSICAL CLASS.
whole of the adult population to sing. Fortu-
nately, the Baron happened to have a tuning-
fork in his pOcket ; and the people, whose efforts
in psalmody in church had been noticed as some-
what imperfect, caught with delight at the idea
of a little musical instruction. They proved,
according to Mr. Brodie, remarkably intelligent,
not one among the number being deficient in
ear, while many had exceedingly fine voices.
The progress surpassed the most sanguine ex-
pectations of the teacher. On the fourth day,
they sang through a catch in four parts with
great steadiness : and the performance was very
remarkable. Mr. Brodie has given the names of
57 pupils being 30 males, and 27 females, as
the " list of Carleton's musical class.' 7
For some time their chief musical instrument
in the church had been an accordion ; but among
the gifts procured for them by the kindness of
friends in England was an excellent organ.
With regard to Mr. Brodie, it is worthy of
remark, that, though he had been thus detained
at Pitcairn, he arrived in the barque Colonist at
San Francisco, in California, twenty-eight days
before the Nolle, which had been ninety-three
~ays on her passage from Pitcairn ! The crew of
tie Noble had suffered great privations, owing
to the want of provisions and water. His dis-
appointment, which appeared so grievous, in
missing his ship at Pitcairn, ended in his escap-
ing the miseries to which the people in the
Noble had been exposed, and in finding the few
weeks on Pitcairn's Island among the happiest
periods of his life.
DETENTION AT PITCAIRN. 169
One of the most important results, however,
of this seemingly casual visit was, that the real
position and prospects of the community became
obvious to impartial judges, and were pointed
out to the inhabitants themselves. Previously
to his departure from Pitcairn, the Baron de
Thierry addressed them on their helpless situ-
ation. He reminded them of the uncertainty
attending the arrival of vessels on their shores,
and called their attention to the scarcity of
water, that great requisite, which the next
landslip might cut off altogether. But the chief
wants which he apprehended, especially amidst
an increasing population, were those of food and
clothing. " Whichever way I look," said he,
" in whatever light I view your case, I see
nothing left for you but removal, and that, too,
as speedily as possible." Writing to them from
Honolulu, Sandwich Islands, in June, 1852, he
advised them to make an application to the
Colonial Secretary for their transfer to Norfolk
Island, in the event of the removal of the
convicts.
CHAPTER VII.
MB. NOBBS SOME ACCOUNT OF HIS LIFE HIS ESCAPE FROM
THE HANDS OF THE PIRATICAL SOLDIER, BENEVIDEIS HIS
ARRIVAL AT PITCAIRN MR. HILL EXTRACTS FROM HIS
LETTER TESTIMONIES TO THE CHARACTER AND SERVICES
OF MR. NOBBS PROGRESS OF RELIGION IN PITCAIRN'S
ISLAND REUBEN NOBBS TESTIMONIES FROM THE REV.
WM. ARMSTRONG AND CAPTAIN WORTH LETTERS FROM THE
ISLANDERS STATE OF THE SCHOOL.
THE arrival of Mr. George Hunn Nobbs at
Pitcairn's Island, in the year 1828, may be
considered a providential occurrence for the
well-being of the inhabitants. The success of
thirty-two years' labour is an abundant proof
of Mr. Nobbs's fitness for his office. Under the
blessing of God, this faithful teacher has edu-
cated in the true religion, and in the principles
of our Church, as one united family, a com-
munity, pre-eminent for their simple and virtu-
ous lives. A brief notice of his career, and of
the circumstances which led him to Pitcairn's
Island, cannot fail to be interesting to the
reader.
Mr. Nobbs was born in Ireland, in 1799. He
was in his youth a midshipman in the British
navy, having first gone to sea when not much
more than eleven years of age. He had been
entered in 1811 on the books of H.M.S.
'
EARLY CAREER OF MR. NOBBS. 171
Roebuck, through the interest of Rear- Admiral
Murray; by whose means he was, in 1813,
placed on board the Indefatigable., naval store-
ship, the master of which was Captain Bowles.
In this vessel the young sailor went to New
South Wales, and Van Diemen's Land. Having
quitted Van Diemen's Land and visited Cape
Horn, and from thence proceeded to the Cape
of Good Hope, he returned, after a short stay
at St. Helena, to England. He then left the
navy. After residing at home a few months,
he received a letter from his old commander,
offering to procure him a berth on board a ship
of eighteen guns, designed for the use of the
patriots in South America; He accepted this
offer, and left England early in . 1816, for
Valparaiso ; but the Royalists having regained
possession of that place, he could not enter it
until 1817. He afterwards held a commission
in the Chilian service, under Lord Cochrane,
now Earl of Dundonald, and became lieutenant
in consequence of his services J
Among other important adventures which
took place during this period, and in which
Mr, Nobbs bore a part, was the courageous
enterprise of cutting out the Spanish frigate
Esmeralda, of forty guns, which was lying irx
the bay, under the batteries of Callao, in Peru.
The capture was accomplished late at night on
the 5th of November, 1820. An address from
Lord Cochrane had been delivered to the marines
and seamen, which concluded with an injunc-
tion, that the Chilenos should act with valour,
" and that the English should do as they had
172 EARLY CAREER OF MR. NOBBS,
always done, both in their own country, and
elsewhere." A very spirited account of this
remarkable transaction, the success of which
surpassed all that could have been imagined,
is met with in Lady Callcott's " Journal of a
Residence in Chili in 1822."
Lieutenant Nobbs was also engaged in a
severe conflict with a Spanish gun-brig, near
Arauco, a fortress of Chili. He had been or-
dered up a river near the town ; the object being
to recover a quantity of property belonging to
British and American merchants, which had
been seized by the piratical general Benevideis.
Mr. Nobbs, when in command of a gun-boat,
after sustaining the loss of forty-eight men, in
killed and wounded, out of a party of sixty-four,
was taken prisoner by the troops of that despe-
rate adventurer and robber.
The sixteen unhappy captives were marched
off to prison, and were all shot, with the excep-
tion of Lieutenant Nobbs, and three English
seamen. These four, after remaining for three
weeks under sentence of death, were quite un-
expectedly exchanged for four officers attached
to Benevideis' army ; one of the officers, a
major, being fortunately a brother-in-law of
Benevideis. Mr. Nobbs had seen his fellow-
prisoners, from time to time, led out to be shot,
and had heard the reports of the muskets con-
signing them to death. He retains to this day
a vivid memory of that dreadful fusillade.
Lady Callcott states that Benevideis was the
son of the inspector of a prison, and had been
a foot-soldier in the first army of the Chilenos
EARLY CAREER OF MR. NOBBS. 173
in the cause of South American independence.
From the descriptions given of this man's cha-
racter and actions, the reader will rejoice at
Mr. Nobbs's rescue from his hands.*
Having been made prisoner by the Royalists,
Benevideis entered their army, and, being taken
soon after, was sent to be tried as a deserter;
but he escaped by setting fire to the hut in which
he was confined; and he soon distinguished
himself among the Royalists by his talents and
bravery. Again he was taken prisoner, and
sentenced to be shot, in company with many
others, in the Plaza of Santiago. He fell with
the rest; but, though thought to have been
executed, was not killed. He lay like a dead
man amongst the others, until it became dark.
He. then contrived to extricate himself from the
heap, and in a most miserable plight, covered
with wounds, crawled to a neighbouring cottage,
the generous inhabitants of which received and
attended him with the greatest care.
General San Martin, who was at that time
planning an expedition to Peru, and was look-
ing about for able and enterprising individuals,
heard of Benevideis being still alive ; and
knowing his talents and courage, considered
him a fit person to serve some of his desperate
purposes. The bold ruffian himself actually
gave information of his being alive, and invited
San Martin to hold a secret conference at mid-
night, in the centre of the great square of San-
tiago. The appointed signal was to strike fire
* See Captain Basil Hall's "Notes on Chili, Peru, and
Mexico."
174 EARLY CAREER OF MR. NOBBS.
from their flints three times ; a mark sufficiently
conspicuous for the purpose of distinction, yet
of a nature .calculated to excite no suspicion.
San MartinJ accordingly, alone, and provided
with a brace of pistols, went to the spot, where
he encountered Benevideis, similarly armed.
After a long conference with the desperado,
whom he finally engaged in his service, he
settled that Benevideis should, for the present,
serve in the Chilian army employed against the
Araucanian Indians in the south; but should
be ready to join the army in Peru when the
expedition sailed.
Benevideis soon quarrelled with the Chilian
General, and once more changed sides, offering
his services to the Indians, who were glad to
obtain so brave and unrelenting an associate,
In a short time his experience and congenial
ferocity gave him so great an ascendency
amongst this warlike race, that he was elected
Commander-in-chief. Hence arose the atrocities
with which Benevideis is justly charged. He
murdered his prisoners in cold blood. His
great delight was to invite the captured officers
to an elegant entertainment, and, after they had
eaten and drunk, march them into his court-
yard, whilst he stood at the window to see them
shot. Some, to whom he had promised safety,
he delivered over to the Indians, of whose
barbarous treatment of prisoners of war he was
well aware ; and they were cruelly murdered.
His cause having failed, Benevideis fitted
out a privateer, to provide himself with food
and ammunition ; and at length, on the 1st of
EARLY CAREER OF MR. NOBBS. 175
February, 1822, finding he could hold out no
longer, he attempted to escape to one of the
Spanish ports in a small boat. But he was
recognised, seized, and sent to Santiago, where,
on the 21st, he was tried, and sentenced to
death. The awful sentence was fulfilled. He
was tied to the tail of a mule, dragged from
prison, and then hanged in the palace-square.
Mr. Nobbs having quitted the Chilian service,
after many hardships and dangers, went to
Naples in October, 1822. On his passage from
that city to Messina in a Neapolitan vessel, she
foundered off the Lipari Islands ; and, with the
loss of everything, he reached Messina in one
of the ship's boats. In May, 1823, he returned
to London in the Crescent, commanded by
William Pitt, a Navy Lieutenant ; and in the
same year he sailed to Sierra Leone as chief
mate of the Gambia. Of nineteen persons who
went out in that vessel, none but the captain,
Mr. Nobbs, and two coloured men, lived to
return. In June, 1824, he again went to Sierra
Leone, commander of the same ship, and was six
weeks on shore ill with fever ; but it pleased
God to restore him to health in time to return
with his ship, the command of which he resigned
on his arrival in England.
7 The commander of a ship in which he had
sailed, had expatiated so frequently on the
happiness of the people at Pitcairn, that Mr.
Nobbs seriously intended to go thither, if his
life should be spared ; and he set out with this
object in view, on the 12th November, 1825,
in the Circassian, bound for Calcutta. He had
M
176 ARRIVAL OF MR. NOBBS AT PITCAIKN.
at that period been four times round the world,
and his wish was to lead a life of peace and
usefulness to his fellow-creatures. With his
mind steadfastly set on Pitcairn's Island, he
was detained until August, 1827, in Calcutta;
from whence, after a very narrow escape from
shipwreck in the Straits of Sunda, he crossed,
the Pacific in a New York ship, called the
Ocean, to Valparaiso. There, and afterwards
at Callao, he suffered a further detention ; but
ultimately he succeeded in leaving Callao in
a frail bark of eighteen tons burthen, having
expended one hundred and fifty pounds sterling
on the vessel and her outfit. He was accom-
panied by only one other person, an American,
named Noah Bunker, and arrived at Piteairn,
after a six weeks' voyage, in October, 1828.
His companion died soon afterwards; and the
vessel afforded the materials for a house for Mr.
Nobbs. John Adams received him with kind-
ness ; and after Adams's death, in March, 1829,
Mr. Nobbs, who had been engaged in keeping
school from the period of his arrival, was ap-
pointed the teacher of the community.
When he first entered upon his charge, the
number of inhabitants of Pitcairn was only sixty-
eight. From that time until the present, he
has been with them through evil report and
good report, as their pastor, surgeon, and school-
master, with the exception of a few months
during which he was absent from the island, in
consequence of the intrusion of a Mr. Joshua Hill,
who arrived from Otaheite in 1832. This pom-
pous person, who was then about sixty years of
LETTEB OF MB. JOSHUA HILL. 177
age, informed the inhabitants that he had been
authorized by the British Government to reside
at Pitcairn's Island; when, in fact, he had
received no such authority. Mr. Nobbs. appears
to have been of too plain and straightforward
a character to suit this new-comer, whose pre-
sence amongst the people caused much trouble,
and who divided their little society into two
factions ; one siding with him, the other with
the constitution as it was. At length, partly by
splendid promises, and partly by instilling into
the simple minds around him the terror of giving
offence to the Government at home, whom he
affected to represent, he enlisted some of the
natives against the three Europeans, and suc-
ceeded in excluding them and their families, for
a time, from the island.
Certain misrepresentations concerning Mr
Nobbs, which are alluded to by Admiral
Moresby, in his letter contained in the Preface,
took their rise at about this time.' ~
It is fortunate for any one who may have
been misrepresented by Mr. Hill, that he wrote
in June, 1834, a long letter, full of his own-
praises, which has been published,* and which
sufficiently shows into what sort of hands
the islanders of Pitcairn had fallen during
the time of Hill's influence. The -author can-
not refrain from quoting a specimen of this
epistle :
" I have visited the falls of Niagara and Mont-
morency, the natural bridge in Virginia, the great
Reciprocating Fountain in East Tennessee, the
* Brodie, p. 211.
M 2
178 , LETTER OF MR. JOSHUA HILL.
great Temple of Elephanta at Bombay. I have
dined with a prince as well as with a princess ;
and with a count, a baron, an ambassador, a
minister (ordinary and extraordinary), and have
travelled with one for some weeks. I have dined
with a Char g 6 d 1 Affair es, and lived with consuls,
&c. I have visited and conversed with ''Red
Jacket? the great Indian warrior : I have visited
and been visited by a Bishop. I have frequently
partook of the delicious Hungarian wine (tokay),
Prince Esterhazy's; as also of Prince Schwart-
zenburgh's old hock, said to have been 73 years
old ; and I was intimate with the brother-in-law
of this last German nobleman. I have dined
with a principal Hong merchant at Canton. I
have sat next to the beautiful Madame Recamier,
and Madame Carbanus ? at the great dinner par-
ties. I have written to the Prime Minister of Eng-
land ; and have received the late Earl of Liver-
pool's answer, with his thanks, &c. I was at Paris
when the allies were met there. I have visited
and breakfasted with the late Warren Hastings,
Esq., at his seat in Gloucestershire. I have had
permission with a party of friends to hunt over
his grounds. Entertained, &c., two or three
days at the sporting lodge of an Earl, now a
Marquis.
" I have made a crimson silk net for a certain
fashionable Marchioness, which she actually wore
at her next great party of five or six hundred
persons. I have danced with the Countess Ber-
trand, i.e. Mademoiselle Fanny Dillon, before
she married the Marshal. I was at Napoleon's
coronation. I have been invited to the Lord
REMOVAL OF ME. HILL. 179
Mayor's, and to the dinner of an Alderman of
London."
Happily, the Hill dynasty was not destined
to last long. He had given out, says Mr, Brodie,
"that he was a very near relative of the Duke
of Bedford, and that the Duchess seldom rode
out in her carriage without him." * But whilst
the people listened, and still their wonder grew
at his magnificent accounts of himself, and of
his noble friends, who should arrive on their
shores, in H.M.S. Actceon, in 1837, but Cap-
tain Lord Edward Russell, a son of the Duke
of Bedford !
A spectre could not have been a more ap-
palling visitant to the so-called relative of the
Russellsc He would have been forthwith taken
from the place by Lord Edward ; but this could
not have been done without orders. Soon,
however, Captain H. W. Bruce (afterwards Ad-
miral Bruce, Commander-in-chief on the coast
of Africa) arrived in H. M. S- Imogene, and
quietly carried off Mr* Hill, landing him, in
1838, safe at Valparaiso.
Mr. Nobbs, during his absence from Pitcairn,
was at the Gambier Islands, where he employed
himself as a teacher, biding his time in patience,
and employing, in his own homely manner, the
talent entrusted to his use.
Gambier's group, about three hundred miles
W.N. W. of Pitcairn, consists of eight islands,
surrounded by coral reefs, enclosing a lagoon in
which there are several secure anchoring-places,
* Brodie, p. 211.
180 GAMBIER ISLANDS.
but which contains dangerous knolls of coral.
Admiral Beechey gives a pleasing account of
his visit to these islands in January, 1826, and
of his interviews with the natives. His vessel
rode safely in the lagoon, where the crew caught
a large quantity of fish. The people came out
on rafts to the vessel, and were delighted with
the presents which they received. One of them
snatched up a small terrier dog, which was
not intended for him ; and it was only by
force that he was prevented carrying it away.
Others wanted to possess themselves, without
a title, of a large Newfoundland dog ; " but
he was big and surly enough to take care of
himself."
Of these islands, which afforded a safe asylum
to the pastor, during his exclusion from Pit-
cairn, the recent accounts, furnished by Captain
Morshead, of H.M.S. Dido, are too valuable to
be lost. That officer, who had been instructed
by Admiral Moresby, after leaving Pitcairn, to
visit the Gambier Islands, with the view of
ascertaining the capabilities of the gioup, as
a place of call for the trans-Pacific steamers,
supplied the following report :
" On the morning of the 10th November, 1853,
I stood close along the N.E. side of Crescent
Isle, with Mount Duff in sight, and having got
the S.W. end of Wainwright Island on with
the mountain, we carried six fathoms over the
barrier reef; and passing to the eastward of
Wainwright Island, anchored on the same after-
noon in eighteen fathoms (sand) under Eelson
Island, which, according to Captain Beechey
GAMBIER ISLANDS, 181
and tlie Pacific Directory, is good anchorage,
and best water. I landed immediately to see the
watering-place ; but it was with much difficulty
that we succeeded in getting the gig over the
reef, and found only a very small stream of
water, not more than would run from the neck
of a bottle, with a few detached wells. Before
moving the ship, I went the next morning
in the gig to see the water, and landed on
Peard Island, to the southward of Mount Duff,
marked in Beech ey's plan ' good water.' Here
the landing is impracticable for a loaded boat,
but we found a good stream a long way in
shore, which is now divided to irrigate the tara
beds, and trickles at last over the rocks into
the sea in numerous little streamlets. The
east side of the island, near the King's house,
was the only place we could find fit for water-
ing ; and on the following morning I moved the
ship over, and anchored off the S.E. angle of
Peard Island, about a mile from the watering-
place, in twenty-two fathoms (sand), and a laby-
rinth of coral patches all around us. By turning
two streams into one, and damming it up, we
were enabled to fill about three tuns in two
hours, and to bring off with some difficulty about
ten or twelve tuns daily. As water is abundant,
reservoirs and tanks might easily be constructed,
should they ever become a rendezvous. I found
the French Protectorate flag flying on shore, and
five French families, but no one in any official
capacity. There are three Romish priests on the
islands, Father Cyprian being at their head, who
holds the king and natives in the mo#t perfect
182 GAMBIER ISLANDS.
subjection, "both temporal and spiritual. There
are several stone-built houses on the island, and
a handsome Romish church 200 feet long, with
a double row of columns inside, and capable
of containing a thousand persons : the altar is
chaste and beautiful, formed of mother-of-pearl.
Upon the hill on the south side of Mount Duff is a
cemetery, and a convent containing one hundred
nuns and sixty children, whose interval between
prayers and penance is filled up by trundling
a distaff, and spinning native cotton, to supply a
; factory with a dozen hand-looms at work-"
N " With respect to supplies, mountain sheep,
goats, hogs, fowls, and fish can be procured. Most
of the tropical vegetables grow, tara and pump-
kin being principally cultivated; but onions,
leeks, carrots, spinach, lettuces, and cabbages,
with a few European potatoes, are cultivated by .
the French families. Of fruit, cocoa-nuts, ba-
nanas, bread-fruit, and pine-apples are abundant
and very fine; oranges and limes are scarce;
the paw-paw apple and fig are also there, Wood
for building and firing is scarce and bad, the
bread-fruit timber being principally used.
" The islands produce annually about four
hundred tons of pearl-shells, and pearls about
equal in value to the shells. Nearly every native
had a few pearls concealed about his person, and
rather over-estimated their value. There were
several large collections on the islands, and some
very indifferent ; but a few in the possession of
the king were magnificent. The population is
now a little above two thousand, an epidemic
having lately (according to Father Cyprian) swept
MR. NOBBS'S RETURN FROM GAMBIER. 183
off several hundreds, The natives are rather a
good specimen of the Koauka race tractable,
hard-working, and expert boatmen. They were
all well dressed; and clothes, cutlery, tobacco,
and soap were sought after, and readily taken in
exchange for supplies. The king having ex-
pressed a desire to see the ship, I received him
with manned yards, and a salute, at which he
was delighted ; but no flag was hoisted, not being
aware that the French Protectorate is either
claimed or acknowledged. His Majesty was
accompanied by the priests, and is a fine-looking
man, above the middle age, and was dressed in
plain European costume. He had a mild, in-
telligent countenance."
After this digression, the reader will be glad
to return to the history of M^ Nobbs. In about
nine months after he had been at the Gambier
Islands, the people of Pitcairn recalled him, with
the other Europeans ; the request for their return
being accompanied by an offer of payment of all
their expenses ; and they returned accordingly,
without further delay.
Mr. Nobbs's active life in the Chilian service
has been briefly noticed. On the 9th of Novem-
ber, 1839, when engaged in the quiet and seden-
tary, but scarcely less laborious, duty of a pastor
and teacher at Pitcairn, with his youthful pupils
around him, he had the satisfaction of receiving,
as a visitor to the island, General Friere, ex-pre-
sident of Chili, who had known him eighteen
years before. What a contrast to those former
scenes is afforded by the picture presented by
184 LETTER FROM THE ISLANDERS.
the plain and simple words, found in the Island
Register, respecting this visit ! *
The following letter, signed by several of the
islanders, including the magistrate and the two
councillors, will speak for itself. It is an answer
to a communication received from the Rev. J.
Moody, then chaplain of H.M.S. Thalia, and
afterwards chaplain at the Falkland Islands :
" Pitcairn's Island, South Pacific Ocean,
" July 20th, 1847.
" REVEREND SIR, We received on the 26th
of February last by H.B.M.S. Spy, your ac-
ceptable present and truly valuable letter, which,
so far from giving offence, is highly appreciated,
and has been deposited in the archives of the
island, to be referred to at public meetings and
other suitable occasions. We extremely regret
the circumstances which frustrated your intended
visit, for we should be in the highest degree de-
lighted to have made your acquaintance, received
your advice, and, we trust, in some measure,
your approbation ; for we can assure you the
report of our splitting into parties, &c. is incor-
rect. A few years since, a partially deranged
impostor, named Joshua Hill, alias Lord Hill,
came here, and made much disturbance ; but he
was removed by order of the British government.
Respecting the letter of which you saw a copy
in the Oahu paper, so far from expressing the
sentiments of the community, not more than
three persons were acquainted with its contents.
* See the PUBLIC REGISTER of this date.
LETTER FROM THE ISLANDERS. 185
The rest of us were ignorant of its existence till
we saw it published in the above-mentioned
paper. That part of it reflecting on our respected
and worthy pastor has been publicly retracted,
and an apology sent down to the Sandwich
Islands, to be inserted in the same paper in
which the letter referred to appeared. Public
worship has never been discontinued, in fact,
since the death of Mr. Adams in 1829. We
cannot call to mind six Sabbaths in which Divine
worship, in accordance with the rules of the
Established Church, has not been performed
twice in the day. Whatever few exceptions
there may have been, the cause was either the
ill health of the teacher, or the unavoidable
necessity of his attending on those who were
very ill, or badly hurt. Moreover, we have a
Bible class for the adults every Wednesday, and
public school for the children five days a week.
The number of children who attend school at
present is . fifty-three ; they are all instructed,
and make good progress. We have been thus
explicit in the foregoing particulars, that you
may understand the actual state of affairs among
us/ As British subjects, to honour and obey
our most gracious Sovereign, and all who are in
authority under her, is our bounden duty, and
we trust will ever be our privilege.
" And now, Reverend Sir, we would bespeak
your attention and interest for the following
items : The whole community are members of
the Church of England, admitted thereto in their
infancy by the rite of baptism ; and the service
of that Church is duly performed twice every
186 LETTER FROM THE ISLANDERS.
Sabbath ; but we are much in want of Pray^r-
books, Psalms, and Watts 1 s Hymns, for public
use. The procuring some for us would be con-
ferring a most essential service. Elementary
books for the younger classes in the school, and
Walkinghame's or other books on arithmetic for
the more advanced scholars, are greatly needed.
In short, the want of school requisites generally
impedes the progress of the rising generation.
" The next thing we would respectfully state
our want of, is a medicine-chest ; for there is a
vast amount of sickness among us, and serious
accidents frequently occur. Our teacher possesses
considerable skill as a physician, but his know-
ledge is often rendered comparatively valueless
from the want of the necessary remedies.
" One thing more, before we conclude, we
earnestly present to your consideration ; and as
it comes in an especial manner within the pro-
vince of your holy office, we would indulge the
hope that our application will be attended with
success. The case in question is this: Our
teacher, who has b,een with us for nineteen years
in that capacity, and whose services to us are
invaluable, has never received the licence or
sanction of the proper authority in that Church,
of which we are a component part. This cir-
cumstance is a source of much anxiety both to
him and us ; and as our number amounts to
138 (71 males and 67 females), and is rapidly
increasing, we do most urgently, but most re-
spectfully, solicit your application to the proper
quarter for a pastoral letter, inducting or sanc-
tioning our teacher into the holy office he has for
LETTER TO CAPTAIN HOPE. 187
so long a space of time unceasingly, untiringly,
and worthily filled on this island. That he is
deserving such a mark of ecclesiastical appro-
bation and favour, is justly and cheerfully ac-
knowledged by the whole community ; and of the
great benefit which will accrue to us therefrom,
no one can be more competent to judge than
yourself."
*
The islanders also addressed a letter to Cap-
tain Charles Hope, who commanded the Thalia
in the Pacific in 1844, but who was prevented,
much to his regret, from paying them a visit.
He, however, sent them some useful presents.
These did not reach them till February, 1847.
In their letter of acknowledgment to Captain
Hope, dated July 1847, is the following pas-
sage : " Our number now amounts to one hun-
dred and thirty-eight, and is rapidly increasing.
Our teacher, who is a worthy man, and whose
services are of great value to us, has never
received the sanction or licence of the proper
authorities in the Church, to qualify him for the
very important and prominent situation he fills.
He is most anxious, and we are no less so, that
"he should be more formally inducted into the
office of pastor ; and for this purpose our humble
request to you is, that you will (if it can be
done with propriety) make our case known to
the Bishop of London, or some other competent
dignitary, who would send a pastoral letter to
cur teacher, sanctioning and confirming liim in
the sacred office he for nineteen years has held
among us."
188 PROGRESS OF RELIGION.
Mr. ISTobbs had been between eighteen and
nineteen years in the midst of the people, when
the above letters were written ; and he had
maintained and advanced among them, accord-
ing to the teaching of the Church of England,
those good principles with which the very name
of Pitcairn has been so long and so happily
associated.
As their religion has been full of good fruits,
so it has been of a quiet, sensible, and unosten-
tatious kind. Inquiry having been made of
Mr. Nobbs by some persons in the United States
of America, a few years since, as to any instances
of sudden and extraordinary conversion, which
might have fallen under his notice, he replied
that his experience did not furnish any such
cases from Pitcairn, In answer to the questions
put to him, he remarked, in reference to the last
hours of Polly Adams, which will be found
noticed in a subsequent page, as well as to some
other instances of dying persons :
' " Had inquiry been made for examples of
HAPPY DEATHS, I could have replied with un-
mitigated satisfaction ; for I have seen many
depart this life, not only happy, but triumphant.
And herein is, I think, the test of the Christian
character ; for when we see a person, who for a
number of years has not only in word, but in
deed, adorned the doctrine of God our Saviour
in all things, brought by sickness or casualty
to the confines of the eternal world, about to
enter the precincts of the silent grave, yet with
unabated energy and fervour proclaim his hope
of a glorious resurrection ; when we see a person,
RELIGION ON THE SICK-BED. 189
suffering the most acute pain, exhorting and
encouraging others to pursue the same path he
has trod, telling the love of God to his soul, and
of his desire to depart, that he may enter into
the presence of his Redeemer; when we wit-
ness such unwavering confidence, amid sucli
intense sufferings, and when the sanity of the
patient is undoubted, can we hesitate to say at
the demise of such an one, ' Let me die the
death of the righteous, and let my last end be
like his ! ' It has been my felicity to witness
several departures of this description within a
few years ; two from accidents, one from a cancer
in the breast, one shortly after child-birth, and
one from disease of the heart. All these died in
the faith. Some of the diseases were lingering,
others rapidly fatal ; but in all cases the subjects
were ' strong in faith, giving glory to God.' '
It is pleasing to notice the terms of respect
and regard in which the teacher is mentioned
in the several communications from the island.
Indeed, many valuable qualities appear to be
united in him for the due discharge of his office.
His good common sense, and plainness of speech,
accompanied with an inoffensive firmness of
conduct and manner, and that kind and Christian
demeanour, without which all other important
points of character in the " messenger of grace ''
are useless and unmeaning, distinguish him as
the man for the situation to which it has pleased
God to call him.
His remuneration had for many years been
"wholly inadequate to the necessities of his
family, and to the maintenance of that respect-
190 THE PASTOR'S SERVICES.
able appearance, which a teacher among the
community ought to hold. For instance, in
writing to a clergyman at Valparaiso, in August,
1844, Mr. Nobbs said,
" My stock of clothing which I brought from
England is, as you. may suppose, very nearly
exhausted, and I have no friends there to whom
I can with propriety apply for more. Until the
last three years, it was my custom to wear a
black coat on the Sabbath ; but since that period,
1 have been obliged to substitute a nankeen
jacket, of my own making. My only remaining
coat, which is quite threadbare, is reserved for
marriages and burials ; so that it is customary
to say, when a- wedding is going to take place,
i Teacher, you will have to put on your black coat
next Sunday,' which is equivalent to informing
me that a couple are going to be married,"
In 1849 Captain Fanshawe said, "Mr. Nobbs
appears to be very much respected by all ; and
his virtuous demeanour, and careful education
of the young, bear testimony to the faithfulness
with which he has discharged his duty, The
heads of families have obviated the necessity of
his seeking elsewhere some more remunerative
employment, by making over to him so much
land as to place him, in that respect, on an
equality with themselves."
It will gratify the reader to learn that this
worthy and humble-minded pastor has since
had a sufficient provision made for his comfort,
and suitable appearance as a clergyman.
The Kev. Wm. Armstrong, writing in 1849
xespectmg the islanders, reported that they coa-
THE PASTOR'S SERVICES. 191
tinned to receive much benefit from the services
of Mr. Nobbs, " as their religious teacher, their
schoolmaster, and their doctor." During an epi-
demic which prevailed in 1848, from the attacks
of which not more than twenty out of one hun-
dred and fifty escaped, Mr. Nobbs attended
them from house to house, day and night, for a
period of two months, with great success ; only
one, an infant, having died.
On his proposing to accept a free passage to
Valparaiso, that he might accompany thither
his eldest son Eeuben, and then return to his
people, the whole of his adopted countrymen
came and begged that it might not be so, as
they could not bear to part with their pastor
and friend. This appeal prevailed ; and, on
Reuben's quitting the island for Valparaiso to
settle in the world, the father gave the whole
of the money he possessed, amounting to eight
dollars, to his son. All the families joined in
fitting the youth out to the best of their power,
furnishing him with a supply of clothes, and
making up altogether a purse of more than
forty dollars, several contributing every cent
they had.
Mr. Nobbs afterwards received, by Commander
Dillon, of the Cockatrice schooner, in 1851, seve-
ral gratifying letters from Reuben. This young-
man had acquired the esteem and confidence of
his employers, merchants at Valparaiso, and was
much valued by all who knew him. But it was
deemed right, after a few years' residence there,
that he should return to Pitcairn's Island, in
compliance with the wish of his mother, who
192 THE PASTOR'S ELDEST SON.
had been very unhappy in consequence of. his
absence ; and thither he accordingly went in the
spring of 1853. He afterwards took the op-
portunity of returning with Captain Morshead,
in the Dido, to Valparaiso, where he resumed
the duties of a responsible mercantile situa-
tion. But his friends having heard with deep
regret, that his health had been much impaired,
it was found necessary to remove him once more
from Valparaiso to his native island. He was
afflicted with lameness, in consequence of an
accident from a gun. To this, as well as to his
illness and death, allusion will be made in the
progress of this work.
The late excellent Captain Worth, of H.M.S.
Calypso, who visited the island in 1848, afforded
the following testimony to the amiable character
and the happy state of the Pitcairn islanders :
" We arrived here on the 9th March (1848)
from Callao, but the weather being very bad,
stormy and squally, as you know there is no
landing except in a small nook called Bounty
Bay, and very frequently not even there
indeed, never in ship's boats, from the violence
of the surf I did not communicate with the
shore till the next day, when, having landed
safely all the presents I brought for the inhabi-
tants from Valparaiso, I landed myself with half
the officers and youngsters, the ship standing off
and on, there being no anchorage. I made the
officers divide the day between them, one-half on
shore, the other on board ; so they were gratified
with visiting these interesting people. I never
was so gratified by such a visit, and would rather
CAPTAIN WORTH'S TESTIMONY. 193
have gone there than to any part of the world.
They are the most interesting, contented, moral,
and happy people that can be conceived.
" Their delight at our arrival was beyond
everything. The comfort, peace, strict morality,
industry, and excessive cleanliness and neatness
that was apparent about everything around them,
was really such as I was not prepared to witness.
Their learning and attainments in general edu-
cation and information really astonishing ; all
dressed in English style ; the men a fine race,
and the women and children very pretty, and
their manner of a superior order, ever smiling
and joyous. But one mind and one wish seems
to actuate them all. Crime appears to be un-
known, arid if there is really true happiness on
earth, it surely is theirs.
" The island is romantic and beautiful ; the
soil of the richest description, yielding almost
every tropical fruit and vegetable : in short, it
is a little paradise. I examined their laws,
added a few to them, assembled them all in
the church, and addressed them, saying how
gratified I was to find them in the happy state
they were, advising them to follow in the steps
of virtue and rectitude they had hitherto done,
and they would never want the sympathies of
their countrymen (i. e. English), who were most
interested about them. It was really affecting
to see these primitive and excellent people, both
old and young, 140 in the whole, looking up to
me, and almost devouring all I said, with eager
attention, and with scarcely a dry eye amongst
them. And, ' albeit unused to the melting,
N2
194 LETTER FROM MR, ARMSTRONG
mood/ I found a moisture collecting in my own
which I could scarcely restrain, they were so
grateful, so truly thankful for all the kindnesses
that had from time to time been shown them,
and for the Interest in their welfare shown by
us and our countrymen. I had all the men
and most of the women on board ; but there
was such a sea on, that the poor girls were
dreadfully sea-sick. I fired some guns and let
off rockets on the night of our departure ; and
they returned the compliment by tiring an old
honeycombed gun belonging to the Bounty^
I set them completely up gave them 100 Ibs-
of powder, ensign and union-jack, casks of salt
beef and pork, implements of agriculture of all
kinds, clothes, bocks, &c. ; and sailed, on the '
evening of the llth, for Tahiti.'!
Mr. Armstrong, in a letter, dated Valparaiso,
October 18, 1849, said :
" .The people tell me they have, for the present,
R good "supply of books, having received a very
suitable grant from the Society for . Promoting
Christian Knowledge. The whole of the books
will, I am sure, highly delight them ; and, from
all I hear, I have no doubt they will be prized,
and made good use of."
The more recent account given by Captain
Morshead, in a letter to Admiral Moresby, Dec.
15, 1853, deserves to be added to the array of
testimony to the character of the islanders.
" .With reference to the provisions that you
entrusted to my discretion, I have left them on
the island. Their yant harvest had been a fair
average ; but, owing to a long drought, great
CAPTAIN MOKSHEAD'S TESTIMONY, 195
fears were entertained for the potato crop, on
which they are equally dependent. One whaler
only had been supplied for the year, yet there
was not on the island a single yam, potato, hog,
or goat available for traffic, although they would
exchange them for an equal amount of nutriment
in biscuit or flour. Their famine has taught
them a good lesson ; for in many houses I saw
small parcels of biscuit tied up to the beams to
await their pending scarcity, Under these cir-
cumstances, I was induced to leave the supplies
with directions that they were to be reserved for
the contingency
" It has long been their custom to leave any
cases at issue for the decision of a captain of
a man-of-war as a final appeal. Only one was
left for me to decide ; it had previously been
before the magistrate, and submitted to a jury,
and on my confirming the opinion of their own
tribunal, they all shook hands
" I trust I may be allowed to add my testi-
mony to their already established reputation for
morality and virtue. With the Scriptures daily,
even hourly, in their hands, it is impossible
that any can act from higher principles or purer
motives ; and all their impulses happily appear
for good, while their goodness ever inclines
them to judge charitably of the faults of others ;
} but so simple and confiding is their nature, that
any designing person thrown among them might
easily destroy their peace and harmony. It has
never been my lot to witness a community more
entitled to admiration and respect ; and from
this, estimation of their character^ it is impossible
196 LETTERS FROM THE ISLANDERS.
to separate the credit that is due to Mr. Nobbs,
who has been their friend and teacher for twenty-
five years, and is now happily their spiritual
guide and minister."
Mr. Armstrong, to whom allusion has been
made above, had for some years shown a warm
feeling of regard for the happiness and welfare
of the islanders. He had not only been instru-
mental in transmitting some valuable presents
by way of additions to their comforts, but had
written them encouraging letters by H.M. S.
Basilisk, Captain H. Hunt, which touched at
the island in July 1844. He afterwards received
the following pleasing letters from some of those
in whom he had taken so warm an interest :
" To the Rev. William Armstrong.
" Pitcairn's Island, Aug. 7, 1845.
' " REV. SIR, Please to receive our united
thanks for the presents which you have sent us.
We have prepared some native commodities for
you, and would have sent them by this vessel ;
but the weather not being fine, and the captain
being in great haste, it was delayed until an-
other opportunity should present itself. The
inhabitants are doing well ; we have a good
school, and religion is in a flourishing condition;
and I trust by the grace of God it will continue
to be so. God Almighty be with you, and bless
you now and for ever. Amen.
"Yours, ARTHUR QUINTAL, JUN.
"Chief Magistrate.
LETTERS FROM THE ISLANDERS. 197
" P S. We should like to hear from you bj
this same man, the name of the Admiral, his
character, &c."
" Pitcairn's Island, South Pacific Ocean,
" Lat. 25 4' S., Long, 130 8' W. Sept. 26th, 1844-
" HONOURED SIR, Please to accept my
humble thanks for your condescension and
kindness in administering to our necessities,
and expressing such solicitude for our welfare.
I hope myself and schoolfellows will ever retain
sentiments of gratitude both toward you and
our other friends in Valparaiso ; and I humbly
pray the God and Father of our Lord Jesus
Christ will have you in his holy keeping, and
that after this life I may be permitted to see
you all, fece to face, in the presence of Him
who loved us, and washed us in his own blood.
To him be glory for ever and ever. Amen,
" LOUISA QUINTAL/'
" Pitcairn's Island, South Pacific Ocean,
"Sept 26th, 1844,
" REVEREND AND HONOURED SIR, Please
to accept my humble thanks for the interest
you are pleased to take in our welfare, and also
for the presents you and our other friends in
Valparaiso have sent us ; and may they and
you be rewarded a thousandfold, both in a
temporal and spiritual sense. And may the
grace of our Lord Jesus Christ, and the love of
198 LETTERS FROM THE ISLANDERS.
God, and the fellowship of the Holy Ghost, be
with you all. Amen.
U I am, Reverend Sir, your grateful Servant,
" MIRIAM CHRISTIAN.'*
From the Chief Magistrate of Pitcairn's Island.
" Pitcairn's Island. April 6th, 1848.
" DEAR FRIEND, Long have I heard of you,
though not acquainted with you, but have often
heard of your friendship towards us Pitcairn
islanders. Now, I have taken this opportunity
to write these few lines to you, informing you
of the state of things in our little island. We
are all getting on very well. I hope that you
and the rest of our friends are getting on well,
as we are. I return you thanks for your kind
letter, which I have received from H. M. S.
Calypso ; also the present which is sent by you
and the rest of the kind gentlemen at Valparaiso.
.We have received from you all such things as
are very .valuable to us, spades, saws, pots,
and other articles. We have received them all
with the greatest pleasure, and I return you all
a thousand thanks for them. The presents are
divided equally amongst us all, from the oldest
woman to the youngest child.
" Kind friend, this is the first opportunity I
have had to write to you. I will thank you
very much if you will take this fund of money
which you will see in this paper, and buy me
a few fish-hooks of the size you will see in the
paper ; and also for my family's use six copies
of Watts's Hymn-books, and one Family Bible*
LETTER FROM GEORGE ADAMS. 199
Friend, I bid you farewell. Perhaps it may not
be our chance to meet in this world, but 1 hope
we may in a better world, where saints and
angels meet ; and if it be our good luck to meet
there, there we shall meet to part no more. I
am obliged to close my letter in haste.
" I remain, your sincere friend and well-wisher,
" GEORGE ADAMS,
" Chief Magistrate of Pitcairn's Island."
Besides these letters, the author has some neat
" copies," in a small round hand, signed respec-
tively by Albina M'Coy, Reuben Elias Nobbs,
Miriam Christian, Robert Buffett, Jemima Young,
Martha Young, James Chester Adams, John
Adams, David Buffett, Simon Young, Frederic
Young ; the two latter being grandsons of Ed-
ward Young, who was on board the Bounty.
These copies are from well-chosen originals,
given by their master to his pupils as exercises
in writing.
The following are specimens :
" Religion conduces both to our present and
future happiness.
" Wisdom and understanding should be trea-
sured in your heart.
" Kingdoms and crowns must eventually be
laid in the dust
" Strive to deserve the friendship and appro-
bation of good men."
There is also a leaf out of Martha Young's
ciphering-book* She was afterwards married to
David Buffett. The pages are filled with accu-
rately finished sums in several rules of arithmetic.
200 THE SCHOOL,
The School- house is a substantial building,
about 56 feet long by 20 wide, conveniently
supplied with forms, desks, slates, books, and
maps. This room was fitted up and used for the
performance of Divine Service on Sundays, and
such other days as are appointed on the island.
In a letter from some of the elder pupils to
Captain Hope, in August 1847, a report is given
of the school duties and times of attendance :
" We attend school five days in the week,
five hours each day. Our routine of -school
duties is as follows : namely, commence with
Sayer and praise ; conclude with the same,
onday, recital of weekly tasks, reading the
Holy Scriptures, writing, arithmetic, and class
spelling. Tuesday, the same as on Monday.
Wednesday, reading in history and geography,
transcribing select portions of Scripture, &c.
Thursday, similar to Monday and Tuesday.
And on Friday, which is the busiest day of the
week, transcribing words with their definitions
from Walker's Dictionary ; read hymns, or
rather devotional and moral poetry ; repeat
Watts's and the Church Catechism; arithme-
tical tables, &c. &c. ; and emulative spelling
concludes the whole : we are generally an hour
longer at school on this day than any other.
On Wednesday afternoon the elder scholars
attend the Bible class, with their parents. On
the Sabbath, Divine service is performed twice,
and all who can possibly attend do so.
" If the request is not improper, will you,
honoured Sir, procure for us some copy-slips, or
models for writing, and a few of Walkinghame's
JOHN BUFFETT. 201
Arithmetic, with a Key to the same ? We often
hear our teacher say, if he had these helps, the
work would be much easier.* 1
Before the engagement of Mr. Nobbs's ser-
vices as an instructor, Mr. John Buffett, who
had arrived at the island in the year 1823,
afforded his assistance as teacher and pastor in
the school and chapel. The life of Buffett has
been one of remarkable adventure. He was
born in a village near Bristol, in 1797, and was
apprenticed, at an early age, to a cabinet-maker,
But having a desire for a sailor's life, he left
his business, and went to sea in the brig Wan-
derer, of Bristol, engaged in the Newfoundland
trade. He quitted the Wanderer at the end ot
six or eight months, and entered the American
merchant service, in which he remained between
four and five years. In 1815, when a youth on
board the Penelope, bound from England for
Quebec, he was wrecked in the Gulf of St.
Lawrence, the ship having struck on a bed of
rocks. Most of the people perished; but he
escaped with a few others in the pinnace safe
to land, where, as the ground was covered
with snow, and there were no inhabitants, he
suffered severe privations. In a few days some
Canadian fishermen, who sailed near, descried
the shipwrecked mariners, and rescued them
from their perilous situation. Some years after-
wards, in a voyage from Jamaica to St. John's,
New Brunswick, in the brig Weasel, Buffett was
shipwrecked on Situate Bay, near Boston, and
was again saved from the fate which seemed
ready to overtake him. In 1821, he sailed as
202 JOHN BUFFETT.
mate from London in an American ship bound
for Canton. From Canton he went to Manilla,
and, after experiencing many trials and hard^-
ships by sea, proceeded to California, where he
remained for some months. He then joined
the whale-ship Cyrus, of London, John Hall,
master, and having procured 1,700 barrels of
sperm oil, touched, in the passage homeward,
at Pitcairn's Island, for refreshment.
"The inhabitants," says Buffett, " being in
want of some person to teach them to read and '
write, the captain asked me if I should like to
lemain there. 1 told him I should, and was
discharged and went ashore. When our boat
landed, the natives appeared very glad to see us.
We ascended the hill, and were conducted to
the village, where we saw John Adams. He
was a man about five feet six inches high, stout
made, and very corpulent. 7 '
Little did John Buffett, in his various wan-
derings, imagine that he should one day be well
settled as an inhabitant of Norfolk Island.
CHAPTEE VIII.
INVITATION OF THE FEMALES OF PITCAIRN TO ADMIRAL
MORESBY VISnrOF AN ENGLISH ADMIRAL TO THE ISLAND
HIS LETTERS, AND THOSE OF HIS SECRETARY AND CHAPLAIN
THE ISLANDERS IN 1852 MR. NOBBS^ ARRIVAL A$ VAL-
PARAISO MR. NOBBS IN ENGLAND HIS ORDINATION AS
DEACON AND PRIEST.
THE narrative has now reached an important
* era in the annals of Pitcairn. .The first arrival
of an English Admiral at the island, in August,
1852, may be considered aiykhistorical event
among the inhabitants, : and it?ay be reasonably
hoped that the result of hia-Msit will prove a
blessing to the people.- A m#re cordial feeling
of friendship and regard has probably never been
evinced by any one towards his fellow-beings,
than Admiral Moresby has shown in behalf of
this favoured community.
Rear- Admiral Moresby, C.B., who had long
been interested in the state and prospects of the
islander^received, in July 1851, the following
warm and hearty invitation, signed by thirteen
of the female inhabitants, in the name of all of
their sex on the island:
"Pitcairn, July 28th, 1851.
" HONOURABLE SIR,- ** From the kind interest
you have evinced for pur little community, in
the letter which you have sent our excellent and
wortliy pastor, Mr. Nobbs, we are emboldened
to send you the following request, which is that
you will visit us before you leave this station;;
or if it is impossible for you to do so, certainty
204
LETTER OF INVITATION,
we, as loyal subjects of our gracious Queen, ought
to be visited annually, if not more, by one of
her ships of war.
"We have never had the pleasure of welcom-
ing an English Admiral to our little island, and
we therefore earnestly solicit a visit from you.
How inexpressibly happy shall we be if you
should think fit to grant this our warmest wish !
We trust that our very secluded and isolated
position, and the very few visits we have of late
had from British ships of war ; will be sufficient
apology for addressing the above request to you.
With fervent prayers for your present and future
happiness, and for that of our Queen and nation .
" We remain, honoured Sir,
' ; Your sincere and affectionate well-wishers,
" CAROLINE ADAMS,
DORCAS YOUNG,
SARAH M'CoY,
SARAH ADAMS,
PHCEBE ADAMS,
JEMIMA YOUNG,
REBECCA CHRISTIAN.
HANNAH YOUNG,
NANCY QUINTAL,
SUSAN QUINTAL,
LOUISA QUINTAL,
RUTH QUINTAL,
RACHEL EVANS,
SARAH NOBBS.
Who could decline such an invitation as this ?
Admiral Fairfax Moresby could not It will be
seen from the subjoined narrative, that it was
In the name, and on
behalf, of all the rest
of the female sex on
the island,"
VISIT OF ADMIRAL MORESBY. 205
cordially accepted. The lively account, which
was supplied by Mr. Nobbs, of the reception of
the gallant Admiral, will serve to place the reader
in possession of many interesting facts connected
with the present state of the island.
" On the 7th of August, 1852 (at noon), a
vessel was reported, which at sunset was strongly
suspected of being a ship of war. The hours
of the night passed tediously away, and before
sunrise next morning several of our people were
seated on the precipice in front of the town,
anxiously waiting the report of a gun from the
ship, which would give positive confirmation to
the overnight suspicion of her being a ship of
war. Nor were they kept long in suspense :
the booming of a cannon electrified the town,
and the whole community were thrown into a
state of intense excitement, more especially as
it was quickly observed that she wore an
Admiral's flag.
-^'.Our boat repaired on board, and, after a
short time, another from the ship was seen
approaching the shore. The teacher and some
others went to the landing-place, and had the
honour and pleasure of welcoming to Pitcairn
Rear-Admiral Moresby, Commander-in-Chief,
the first officer of that rank that ever visited
Pitcairn. The Admiral received our greetings
of welcome in a most urbane manner, and both
himself and his secretary, Mr. Fortescue Moresby,
were pleased to express themselves much grati-
fied with all they saw and heard. The Admiral
attended Divine service, and was evidently sur-
prised at the improvement the people had made
206 VISIT OF ADMIRAL MORESBY.
in singing by note ; especially as their friend
Carleton had so very limited a time for instruct-
ing them. In the afternoon the Rev. Mr. Hol-
man read prayers, and preached a sermon, most
appropriate to the occasion, from 1st Cor. 15th
chap, last verse.
" The Admiral, in the course of conversation,
learned from the inhabitants that they had a
great desire for the ordination of their pastor, in
order that he might be qualified to administer
the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper ; and, with
great kindness, proposed to send Mr. Nobbs to
England for that purpose, leaving the Rev. Mr.
Holman to officiate in his stead. The inha-
bitants did not accede to this most generous offer
so readily as they ought to have done ; and the
reason they gave was, that in case of sickness
they would have no one to prescribe for them.
The Admiral told them they might do as they
liked, but they were certainly much wanting to
themselves and their children, if they let so
favourable an opportunity pass without improv-
ing it. He explained to them, very clearly and
forcibly, the necessity of an ordained clergy-
man being established among them, and the
disabilities their children laboured under until
such an event took place. They listened with
breathless attention to the paternal advice of the
Admiral, and most readily acquiesced in all his
expansive views of the subjects most vitally
connected with their welfare. But still they
evinced a backwardness in agreeing to part with
their teacher. The Admiral, on perceiving this,
kindly told them he would give them till eleven
VISIT OP ADMIRAL MORESBY* 207
o'clock to come to a decision, and that he would
not retire till that period.
" During their debate one of them came to
inquire of the Admiral, whether Mr. Holman
would teach the public school. The Admiral
replied, * Certainly. 1 On this the man went
away ; and at eleven o'clock, as no answer had
arrived, the Admiral went to bed. About twelve
o'clock word was brought that the community
had agreed to let their teacher go, which was
duly reported next morning to the Admiral,
who remarked that they had done well in con-
senting to Mr. Nobbs's departure, and that he
would take upon himself the responsibility of
the expenses incurred necessarily by Mr. Nobbs,
although he had no doubt there were friends
of the Pitcairn islanders who would cheerfully
unite with him ; and further, they would never
lack friends so long as they continued to deserve
them.
" As the point was now decided, Mr. Nobbs
was requested to hold himself in readiness for
embarkation, the Admiral generously under-
taking to supply him with articles in which his
scanty wardrobe was deficierrt. On seeing the
necessity there was of an educated female to
improve the domestic habits of the women
generally, and hearing Mr. Nobbs remark that
he would send one of his daughters to Valpa-
raiso for improvement, that she might on her
return instruct the others, but that he could
not command funds for doing so, the Admiral
replied, * Take your- child with you, and I will
|3ut her to school while you are gone to Eng-
208 THE LEAVE-TAKING.
land ; and when you come "back, you can take
her to the island with you/
"And now comes the leave-taking, the
venerable and benevolent Commander- in-Chief
of her Majesty's forces in the Pacific, standing
on the rocky beach at Bounty Bay (the very
spot where the mutineers had landed sixty-two
years before), himself the oldest person there
by fifteen years, surrounded by stalwart men
and matronly women, youths, maidens, and
little children, every one in tears!; and most
deeply affected, formed a truly impressive scene.
The boat was some time in readiness before the
Admiral could avail himself of an opportunity to
embark. Some held him by the -hand, the elder
women hanging on his neck, and the younger
ones endeavouring to obtain a promise that he
would revisit them. As a number of the men
went on board with the Admiral, a similar scene
occurred there ; and as the last boat pushed off
from the ship, some of the hardy tars standing
in the gangway, were detected in hastily brush-
ing away a tear. The frigate now stood in for
the last time, and, hoisting the royal standard,
fired a salute of twenty-one guns. The tars
manned the rigging, and gave three hearty
cheers, and one cheer more. The islanders
responded ; the band struck up c God save the
Queen ; ' and the stately Portland started on her
track. May He who stilleth the raging of the
waves waft her propitiously to her destined
port! To Admiral Moresby, Mr. Fortescue
Moresby, Captain Chads, and the officers gene-
| rally, the people of Pitcairn are much indebted
LETTER OF ADMIRAL MORESBY. 209
for many 7 very many favours. That they will
long be gratefully remembered, admits not of
a doubt ; and that the inhabitants may con-
tinue to conduct themselves as becomes people
*so highly favoured, is most devoutly to be
wished."
A letter from Admiral Moresby, dated Port-
land, at sea, lat. 25 25' S., long. 126 29' W.
August 12, 1852, informed the authorities at the
Admiralty that he had reached Pitcairn's Island
early on Sunday, the 8th August. From that
time to the period of his departure, on the llth,
he had remained on shore. The following im-
portant testimony was borne by him as to the
religious and moral state of the island, and to
the character of the pastor :
" It is impossible to do justice to the spirit of
order and decency that animates the whole com-
''munity, whose number amounts to 170, strictly
brought up in the Protestant faith, according
to the Established Church of England, by Mr.
Nobbs, their pastor and surgeon, who has for
twenty-four years zealously and successfully, by
precept and example, raised them to a state of
the highest moral conduct and feeling.
" Of all the eventful periods which have
chequered my life, none have surpassed in
interest, and (I trust and hope) in future good,
pur visit to Pitcairn: and surely the hand of
(rod has been in all this ; for by chances the
most unexpected, and by favourable winds out
of the usual course of the trades, we were carried
in eleven days to Pitcairn's from Borobora It
is impossible to describe the charm that the
o2
210 LETTER OF THE ADMIRAL'S SECRETARY.
society of the islanders throws around them,
under the providence of God. The hour and
the occasion served, and I have brought away
their pastor and teacher, for the purpose of send-
ing him to England to be ordained, and one of
his daughters, who will be placed at the English
clergyman's at Valparaiso, until her father's
return. The islanders depend principally for
their necessary supplies on the whaling-ships,
which are generally American. Grreatly to their
credit, the men behave in the most exemplary
manner, very differently from what I expected.
One rough seaman, whom I spoke to in praise
of such conduct, said, < Sir, I expect if one of
our fellows was to misbehave himself here, we
should not leave him alive/ They are guileless
and unsophisticated beyond description. The
time had arrived when preparation for partial
removal was necessary, and especially for the:
ordination of their pastor,- or the appointment of
a clergyman of the Established Church."
Extract of a letter from the Admiral's Secre-
tary :
" At 6.30 A.M. of the 6th, as we were dancing
along about eight knots an hour before a fresh
breeze, we discovered a thin blue sEadow, whose
outline appeared to be too well defined to be a
cloud; at 9 we were certain that we saw Pitcairn's
Island. Having read so much about the mutiny
of the Bounty \ and the subsequent romantic his-
tory of the mutineers, which has resulted in the
formation of a colony celebrated for their virtue.
LETTER OF THE ADMIRAL'S SECRETARY. 211
and simplicity, and religion, I experienced a
feeling of something (I know not what to call it)
on approaching the island, that I have felt when
visiting some spot held sacred either from history,
or from being the scene of some Biblical relation.
Having a fair wind, we hoped about noon to be on
shore ; but whilst we were yet twenty miles from
the island, the wind came directly foul, and fell
light, so that we hardly held our own, owing to
the heavy swell, and all day we remained en-
deavouring to work up. What a little spot it
appears on the vast Pacific ! a mere rock appa-
rently incapable to resist the mighty waves of
so vast an ocean. Easily indeed would a ship
not knowing its exact position miss it. The
mutineers might well deem themselves secure
on so small an island, so remotely situated at
that time. Also these seas were but little fre-
quented ; but even now, to give you an idea of
their vast extent, notwithstanding the thousands
of ships that are trading on them, we have only
seen one ship at sea, and our track measures
4,500 miles. When we get close to the land,
or some well-known port, we see a few. During
the night we got a slant of wind, and at 6, Sunday
morning the 8th, we were close to the island.
- A whale-boat full of the islanders soon came
off, but before coming alongside they asked per-
mission to come on -board; then jumped up the
side seven or eight fine tall robust fellows, and
assured us of a hearty welcome when we went
on shore.
" I was in my cabin with Philip M'Coy, one ^
of the islanders, when the sentry came to tell mo '
212 LETTER OF THE ADMIRAL'S SECRETARY.
that it was prayer-time, for the Admiral always
has prayers before breakfast. I said to Philip,
' 1 shall be up again directly, if you will wait/
He paused a moment, and then said, ' May I
come, sir?' ' Oh, yes,' I answered. On going
down, we met the rest of his companions, whom
he told, and they all came in and knelt down to
prayers. We then got a hurried breakfast, and
the Admiral and myself immediately landed
in the cutter, the water being pretty smooth.
This was the only time a ship's boat was able to
land, for a heavy surf generally rolls in, breaking
with terrific violence on the rocky shore. The
proper way to land is to come to the back of the
rollers in a ship's boat; a whale-boat then comes
off, you get into her, and she immediately gets
ready to obey the signal of a man who stands
upon a rock on shore : and directly he waves his
hat, the favourable moment has arrived, the men
give way, and with wonderful rapidity the boat
is borne on the top of a wave to the shore. They
are very sij^fcil, and in a heavy surf will gene-
rally land you dry.
"Mr. George Hunn Nobbs, their teacher or
pastor, met us at the landing-place, and we at
once ascended the cliffs by a steep winding
path to a plantation of cocoa-trees, called the
market-place, as all trade is carried on at this
spot. Here the islanders met us and gave us a
hearty welcome. Generally all the inhabitants
assemble here to welcome the officers of a man-
of-war ; but as it was Sunday and early, they
had not arrived. We continued our way by
a pretty path winding through the trees to the
LETTER OF THE ADMIRAL'S SECRETARY. 213
town, meeting here and there detachments
coming towards us. These all followed in our
wake ; and Joy the time we reached Mr. Nobbs's
cottage, which is situated "at the opposite end of
the town, we had pretty well all the people
after us.
" Never were seen so many happy smiling
faces, all eager to look at the first admiral that
ever came to their happy island; but not one
tried to push his way, or make any attempt to
get before another. If we said a kind word to
any of them, they looked so happy and pleased!
and we did not neglect to do so. There is not
one in whose face good humour, virtue, amia-
bility, and kindness does not beam, and con-
sequently not one whose face is not pleasing.
4 'It was now church- time, and away we all
went to church. Mr. Nobbs officiated, and read
the prayers impressively and earnestly: the most
solemn attention was paid by all. They sang
two hymns in most magnificent style ; and
really I have never heard any church singing
in any part of the world that could equal it,
except at cathedrals ; and the whole of the
credit is due to Mr. Carleton, who was left
behind by accident from a whaler.
u They all like to dress like English people,
if they can, on Sundays. The women complain
that they cannot get shoes ; but all the men can
get them from the whalers. During the week,
their dress consists chiefly of a dark-blue petti-
coat, and a white kind of shirt, for the women :
and for the men loose shirt and trousers. Their
food consists chiefly of yams, cocoa-nuts, bananas*
214 LETTER OF THE ADMIRAL'S SECRETARY.
oranges, &c., and a few fish ; and in the yam
season, each family kills a large pig, so that
during the hard work of digging yams they may
have a little animal 'food. Sometimes they get
goats' flesh, and are trying to rear a few cattle
they have there. The Admiral gave them a
young bull and cow, also a ram.
" Both sexes work very hard indeed. They
usually rise at dawn ; have family prayers ; do
the work that is necessary; about dusk have
supper; then they go to the singing-school or
to Mr. Nobbs, or meet to have a chat. About
nine or ten, they go to bed, previously having
family worship. Should one of the little ones go
to bed or to sleep during its mother's absence,
she immediately awakes it to say its prayers.
Not a soul on the island would dream of com-
mencing a meal or finishing it without asking a
blessing, or returning thanks. Boys and girls
can swim almost as soon as they can walk ; con-
sequently they can swim through the largest
surf, and play about amongst the broken water
on the rocks that we look at with terror. One
of their greatest amusements is to have a slide,
as they term it : that is, to take a piece of wood
about three feet long, shaped like a canoe, with
a small keel (called a surf-board); they then,
holding this before them, dive under the first
heavy sea, and come up the other side ; they
then swim out a little way until they see a rapid
heavy sea come rolling in, the higher the better :
they rest their breast upon the canoe or surf-
board, and are carried along on the very apex
of the surf at a prodigious rate right upon the
LETTER OF THE ADMIRAL'S SECRETARY. 215
rocks, where you think nothing can save them
from being dashed to pieces, the surf seems so
powerful; but in a moment they are on their
legs, and prepared for another slide. Their
method of fishing is equally dangerous ; the
women walk upon the rocks until they see a
squid; then watching the retreating sea, they
run in and try to pick the squid up before the
advancing surf can wash them off; but frequently
they are washed off, and then they have to exert
all their skill to land, for they have no surf-
board to help them.
" Christmas-day is a grand feast, and they
keep it up in good style. But the Queen's
birthday is their grand day ; it is kept up with
feasting and dancing, and all sorts of merri-
ment. Among the first questions everybody
asks is, ' How is her Majesty the Queen?
"Away, away ! we are off to the world again,
truly sorry to leave this island. Their happiness
in this life consists wholly in virtue, and their
virtue is their truest pleasure. They think that
(and how really true it is !) the more religious
and virtuous you become, the happier you are ;
deeming every sin to take from your enjoyment
in this and the after life. They know that true
pleasure is only to be obtained by obeying the
will of God. Their temperance and industry
give them health, food, and cheerfulness, and
gain for them universal esteem, respect, and
sympathy ; and as in this life they do not seek
their pleasures in things below, but in a higher
Power, so we may earnestly hope that the image
of the Saviour will bp found in their hearts, and
216 THE ISLANDERS IN 1852.
that in the next world they may be peculiarly
nis own/'
The following account, by one of the voyagers,
brings the narrative down to Mr. Nobbs's arrival
at Valparaiso, on his way to England :
" These excellent people deserve all the praise
-which has been bestowed upon them. They are
like one large family, living in perfect harmony
with each other. We were treated by them
like brothers, and welcomed everywhere. The
population is now twenty-one families. Arthui
Quintal is the oldest man, and George Adams
next, these being the only male survivors of the
first generation. They are badly off for clothing,
which they purchase from the whaling- vessels
occasionally touching there. Their money is
derived from the sale of their surplus yams, &c. ;
but owing to the small size of the island, and
the rapid increase of the population, they must,
in a very few years, withhold from ships all
supplies except water.
" We arrived on the morning of Sunday,
Aug. 8, 1852. As soon as we hove-to, off
Bounty Bay, Arthur Quintal and George
Adams, with as many as a whale-boat could
contain, came on board to pay their respects
to the first admiral who had ever visited them.
Shortly after, they requested leave to attend
prayers in the Admiral's cabin, which are read
every morning by the chaplain. When break-
fast was over, the band was ordered up, with
which they were much delighted.
"Our chaplain performed the afternoon ser-
ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND. 217
vice, and preached an excellent sertnon. Th
hymns were sung in regular parts by the whole
congregation. I doubt much whether any
church in England, excepting cathedrals, can
boast of such a good choir. The congregation
were very nicely dressed : indeed, it is a great
point to have white shirts on Sundays. The
Sabbath is strictly observed. The crew of the
Portland requested permission, which was
granted, to present the islanders with three
casks of rice, twelve bags of bread, and one cask
of sugar; the value of these articles being
charged against their wages. Mr. Nobbs left
the shore amidst the tears and blessings of his
little flock, by whom lie is sincerely beloved.
" Before making sail on our course, we ran in
close to the island, hoisted the royal standard
at the particular request of the islanders, who
had never before seen it displayed, fired a royal
salute, manned the rigging, and gave three
cheers for the islanders, which they answered
heartily. We arrived at Valparaiso on the
30th August."
Mr. Nobbs having travelled by the Isthmus
of Panama, sailed by the Orinoco steamer, and
landed at Portsmouth on Saturday, Oct. 16,
1852. Admiral Moresby had supplied him
with the means of obtaining a passage from
Valparaiso to London, and generously contri-
buted one hundred pounds towards such costs
as might be incurred during his absence from
the island.
On his presenting himself to the late Bishop,
his Lordship, in consideration of Mr. Nobbs's
218 OEDINATION OF MR. NOBBS.
long services at Pitcairn, and the high character
given of him by Admiral Moresby, as well as by
other competent persons, acceded to his request
to be admitted to holy orders.
On Sunday morning, October 24th, 1852, an
ordination took place in the parish church of
St. Mary, Islington, by the Bishop of Sierra
Leone, under a special commission from the
Bishop of London, when Mr. Nobbs was ad-
mitted to deacon's orders. Mr 1 . Richard C.
Paley, B.A. of St. Peter's College, Cambridge,
a grandson of the eminent Archdeacon Paley,
was ordained at the same time ; both candidates
having been presented by the Rev. Henry Venn,
Secretary of the Church Missionary Society.
Several of the clergy of the neighbourhood, arid
about twenty students of the Church Missionary
College, were present. Mr. Paley, who was a
very young man, entered at once upon his
arduous and interesting Mission at Abbeokuta,
Western Africa, but was stopped by the hand
of death almost at the commencement of his
missionary career. The other candidate, who
was more than twice his age, yet lives on, by
God's good providence, for the benefit of his
little flock in the Southern Pacific.
On the 30th November, St. Andrews-day,
1852, the Rev. G. H. Nobbs was ordained
priest in Fulham Church, by the Bishop of
London. His description in the letters of orders
was, " Chaplain of Pitcairn's Island." He
was presented for priest's orders to the Bishop
by the author of this work.
CHAPTEE IX.
THE REV. G. H. NOBBS IN ENGLAND HIS RECEPTION BY THE
QUEEN AND PRINCE ALBERT MR. NOBBS'S RETURN HOME-
WARD BY NAVY BAY AND THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA THE
LATE BISHOP OF SYDNEY MR. NOBBS AT VALPARAISO
EFFORTS IN ENGLAND FOR THE ISLANDERS INTELLIGENCE
FROM PITCAIRN THE FIRST COMMUNION ON THE ISLAND
MR. NOBBS'S ARRIVAL AT PITCAIRN PITCAIRN IN 1853
AID RENDERED TO THE ISLANDERS.
DURING his two months' stay in England, Mr.
Nobbs met with various marks of kindness.
The prompt and courteous attention shown
him at the Admiralty, by the late lamented
Augustus Stafford, M.P., Mr. T. T. Grant, and
other gentlemen, he valued very highly. EU
paid visits to the Duke and Duchess of North-
umberland, the Bishop of London (Dr. Blom-
field), the Bishop of Winchester, and Arch-
deacon Grant, at whose houses he was a welcome
guest. Speaking of his visit to the Bishop of
London and Mrs. Blomfield, he said, " The- un-
affected condescension and regard shown to 'me
whilst I sojourned at Fulham Palace will long
be treasured in my memory ! " The late ex-
cellent Sir Eobert H. Iriglis received him with
much hospitality ; and he was entertained with
true kindness at Killerton, Devon, by Stt Thomas
and Lady Acland, who were amongst the most
kind and serviceable of his many friends.
220 RECEPTION BY THE QUEEN AND PRINCE.
On Wednesday, December 15, 1852, two days
before he quitted England for Pitcairn, Mr. Nobbs
embarked at Portsmouth, on board the yacht
Fairy, and proceeded by appointment to Osborne
House, where he was received by Colonel the
Hon. C. Grey, and after a short time was pre-
sented to Prince Albert.. His Koyal Highness
asked many questions as to the island, and
appeared much pleased with the answers given, i
Mr. Nobbs having, towards the conclusion,
of this interview, humbly begged' to be allowed
to pay his duty in person to the Queen, and it
having appeared that her Majesty had ex-
pressed her readiness to receive him, the Prince
was pleased to present him to her Majesty.
The reception was highly gratifying to his feel-
ings as a dutiful subject^ and the representative
of the truly loyal community of Pitcairn 0i The
Queen, who was most gracious and condescend-
ing in her demeanour towards him, was pleased
to present him with her portrait. " Portraits of,
Prince Albert and the Eoyal Children were
added. These highly-treasured gifts having
been consigned at Valparaiso to the care of
Captain Morshead, of H.M.S. Dido, were safely
landed at Pitcairn; and, on the 3d of the follow-
ing November, were exhibited to the Islanders."
Their devoted loyalty on the receipt of the pic-
ture of the Queen was most striking.
4 Mr. Nobbs having been placed by the Society
for ike Propagation of the Gospel on its lists of
Missionaries, with a salary of 50?. per annum,
sailed on the 17th December, 1852, from South-,
amp ton, in the Royal Mail, steam-ship La Plata.
MR. NOBBS'S RETURN HOMEWARD. 221
He reached the island of St. Thomas early in the
year 1853, and from thence proceeded in another
steamer to Navy Bay. The Directors of the
Royal Mail Steam Navigation Company had
kindly provided him with a free passage to that
place.
At the 'head of Navy Bay lies the town, which
by the government of the province, and in all
official documents, is styled "Colon," but by
the Americans, who are its founders and chief
owners, is known by the name of " Aspinw,all. n :
There is the terminus of the railroad, by wEIch
the traveller was conveyed about 25 miles, at a
high rate, to the station of Barbacoas, on the
river Chagres. Thence there was a conveyance
up the river by canoes about 14 miles, to the
town of Cruces. From Cruces the journey over-
land to Panama, about 25 miles, was. completed
on mules, over one of the very worst roads that
ever existed in the world.
The Panama line of railroad has. since been
completed for traffic from Navy Bay on the
Atlantic to the Bay of Panama on the Pacific,
a distance of about 50 miles.
It will be interesting to many readers to learn
that the late admirable Bishop of Sydney, Dr.
W. G. Broughton, travelled by this line, cross-
ing,^ under circumstances of great difficulty,
owing to his lameness, and enfeebled health,
the Isthmus of Panama, on his way from Lima
to England. It is remarkable that he reached
our shores on the 18th of November, 1852, the
day of the funeral of the great Duke of Wel-
lington. ^ The acute and penetrating mind of the
222 THE LATE BISHOP OF SYDNEY.
Duke had, many years previous, observed and
appreciated Mr. Broughton's high qualities, and
the strict sense of duty by which he was ever
actuated. He became Archdeacon of New South
Wales in 1829, and had been long esteemed in
the Colony, when he was called, in 1836, to
fulfil the Episcopal office in those immeasurably-
spread regions, which have since been divided
into several dioceses. In undertaking single-
handed so laborious a task, he felt, as he after-
wards wrote (Feb. 1838): " My Immble confi-
dence is placed in God, who has hitherto shown
us His favour and protection ; and so I am per-,
suaded He will continue to do, whilst our exer-
tions are directed to the promotion of His glory,
by the extension of His Church upon earth, and
to the edification of His people here, and theia:
eternal salvation in the world to come."
Bishop Broughton died in London, greatly
.lamented, on the 20th February, 1853. His
remains were interred in Canterbury Cathedral.
He had, shortly before his death, expressed to
the author much sympathy with the Pitcairn
Islanders, and their Pastor. Speaking of his own
difficulties in crossing the Isthmus of Panama,
on mules, by canoes, and railroad, the Bishop
said that, after the undertaking was all over, he
had sometimes to pause and ask himself, whether
it was possible that he had actually accom-
plished it.
The Bishop, notwithstanding the fatigue
attendant upon his journey, had fully projected
an important act of kindness towards the British
community at Valparaiso^ which circumstances
MR. NOBBS AT PANAMA. 223
prevented him from carrying into effect. He
wrote to the Kev, B, Hill, late chaplain at Val-
paraiso, from Lima, to inform him, that it had
been his wish and intention to call at Valparaiso,
in the hope that he might be serviceable to the
junior members of the Episcopal Chtirch there,
by conferring on them the rite of Confirmation ;
that he had waited for some time, in the expec-
tation of obtaining a passage to that port, but
had at length, from want of a ship, been obliged
to abandon his intention.
Mr. Nobbs, though a well-tried traveller,
and equal to the endurance of much hardship,
experienced a full share of the trouble and
annoyance for which the journey over the
Isthmus of Panama was then proverbial. He
had purposely avoided taking much luggage.
Not only, however, was the charge for convey-
ance exorbitant ; but, with all his care, he, for
some time, lost sight of a trunk, containing,
among other articles of importance, a beautiful
set of silver communion plate, which had been
entrusted to his care by a friend at Fulham, for
use in the church at Pitcairn. This painful
event, added to the ill effect of the climate,
brought on an attack of fever, the symptoms
of which were serious after his leaving Panama.
By God's blessing, this sickness passed away.
The reappearance of the goods, which were,
through the active zeal of Mr. Perry, the British
Consul at Panama, restored to Mr. Nobbs's
hands, appears to have tended to his recovery.
Two dreadful events, occurring hi the year
1856, on the Isthmus of Panama, have added
p
224 MR. NOBBS AT VALPARAISO.
to the catalogue of horrors belonging to the
place ; the one a terrific conflict between some
American passengers and the natives, in which
the former were robbed, and several on both
sides killed and wounded ; the other, a frightful
accident, causing the death of between thirty and
forty persons, and serious injury to seventy or
eighty, on the Panama railroad. Between nine
and ten miles from Aspinwall, nine cars were
precipitated into a ravine thirty feet deep.
On Mr. Nobbs's arrival at Valparaiso, he found
his son and daughter in good health ; but he was
just too late for a vessel for Pitcairn. Writing
to the author from Valparaiso, he said : -
"After some detention and sickness, I was
graciously permitted to arrive here on the 12th
of February ; and I am still detained, waiting for
the Portland. Oh, how I wish to be at home !
I have divided the duty with the Rev. B. Hill at
the church on shore, ever since I have been here,
besides the service on board one of the British
ships of war, once on each Sabbath ; so you see
I am not idle. The agent for British steamers
in these parts presented me with a free passage
from Panama to Valparaiso. I hope my next
will be dated ' Pitcairn's Island.' "
Looking forward to the pleasure of being once
more at home, he added, "Oh! that will be
joyful.' 7
Admiral Moresby, in a letter to the author,
dated Valparaiso, 31st January, 1853, said:
"My heart rejoices at the completion of
my wishes in Mr. Nobbs's ordination., and the
FIRST COMMUNION AT PITCAIRN, 225
prospect opening to the Pitcairn community. A
small sum will suffice to keep up a knowledge
of the Tahitian language the voice by which
the extension of the Gospel will be forwarded.
I hope and trust that it will please God to give
His blessing to all that has been done."
The Admiral, at the same time, forwarded a
communication addressed to him by the Rev,
W. H. Holman, dated Pitcairn, Dec. 21st, 1852.
From this it appeared that the people had been
greatly pleased with the presents brought by the
Cockatrice, and felt truly grateful for the kind-
ness of their friends. Two deaths had occurred
on the island Mary Christian, and a little boy,
William Quintal ; the latter from lock-jaw, occa-
sioned by a thorn running into his foot. The
people were healthy, with the exception of the
slight illness caused by vaccination, which had
proved successful in every case.
A very favourable report was given of the
moral and religious character of the Islanders.
The first administration of the Holy Com-
munion had taken place, when the whole of the
adult congregation (sixty-two persons) received
the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper.
Soon after this, the Chief Magistrate, in the
name of the community, wrote to Admiral
Moresby in the following terms :
"PITCAIRN'S ISLAND, January \%th, 1853.
"DEAR'AND HONOUEED FATHER,
"We, the inhabitants of Piteairn's Island,
filled with a sense of gratitude for the many
226 LETTER TO THE ADMIRAL.
favours which we have experienced at your
hands, have made bold to address you in the
language of children. We feel in ourselves
that if kindness and protection from a parent
deserve the respect and obedience of his chil-
dren, we certainly owe the same to you, for the
many, many favours which we have received
from you ever since your arrival in this ocean.
Your former favours to* us are not forgotten,
and especially your kind visit to us in August
last. The presents which we then received from
you arid your officers, and good ship's company,
and those again by the Cockatrice lately, have
filled us with the deepest gratitude ; and will, we
doubt not, be remembered in Pitcairn's Island
when we ourselves are no more.
" Situated as we are, so far away from the
rest of mankind, and lying so far out of your
course, we esteem it the greatest kindness in-
deed that you should deign to pay us a visit as
you did ; and we sincerely hope, that through
the mercy and kindness of ' Him who alone can
govern the unruly wills and affections of sinful
men,' we may ever continue to conduct our-
selves in such a manner as to merit the esteem
and approbation of yourself and all our nu-^
merous friends.
" In the name of the community, we beg you
to accept our most sincere and hearty thanks for
all your kindness to us. We feel that words
are but weak to convey our thanks ; but such as
they are, we hope you will accept of them as
flowing from sincere and grateful hearts; and
that the Giver of all good gifts, who has de-
MR. N(JBBS'S RETUKN TO PITCAIRN. 227
clared that * it is more blessed to give than to
receive,' may ever bless and preserve you and
yours, is the sincere desire of
" Your loving children,
<c MATTHEW M'Cor,
" Chief Magistrate, &c. &c.
" To Rear- Admiral Fairfax Moresby, Commander-in- Chief."
Very many persons in this country had learned
to feel a deep interest in Pitcairn' s Island and
its Pastor; and when they considered the un-
certainty of human life, and the dangers and
difficulties of the passage between London and
Pitcairn a distance of more than thirteen
thousand miles they could not but be anxious
to hear of Mr, Nobbs's safe return to the scene
of his labours. They therefore sympathised
not only with him, but with the energetic and
disinterested Admiral Moresby, when it became
known that the valuable deposit, entrusted by the
Islanders to that officer's care, had, under Divine
Providence, been happily restored to them.
The following is an extract from a letter from
Mr. M. Forteseue Moresby, son and Secretary
of the Commander-in-Chief, dated H.M.S. Port-
land, 25th June, 1853 :
" On Friday, the 15th of April, 1853, we
sailed from Valparaiso, having Mr, Nobbs, and
his children Reuben and Jane, on board, in
order to return them all to their island home.
On Saturday, the 14th of May, we sighted
Pitcairn, about 50 miles distant : on Sunday, at
sunrise, it was looming large from the deck,
228 ARRIVAL AT PITCAIRN.
Just before we went to morning service we fired
three guns, to let them know we had three
passengers on / board. After church we were
close enough to see people on the island ; and
we observed them all come out of church, and
launch their whale-boat. Of course, this was
a most anxious tim^ for Mr. Nobbs. In about
half-an-hour they came alongside, followed by a
canoe, in which were old John Adams's son and
grandson. They manifested the same honest
genuine feeling of delight at Mr. Nobbs's return,
as they did of sorrow at his departure. Of course,
they were delighted to see us also once more.
We observed that all the men looked ill and
poor ; which, they told us, was the effect of the
long drought having disappointed them in their
crops. This had caused not quite a famine, but
so near it, that for months they had been
reduced to pumpkins, berries, cocoa-nuts, and
beans, for their existence. When we got on
shore, the effect of so low a diet was plainly
visible ; they were not nearly the same gay
people that they were before ; one and all looked
thin and careworn. The Admiral, with Mr.
Nobbs, Reuben, Jane, and myself, immediately
landed in the cutter, and got rather wet in the
surf. Every soul was on the beach to receive
us ; and it would be a task my pen is totally
unequal to, were I to attempt describing their
delight at again receiving amongst them their
old and beloved pastor. We at once proceeded
in a body to the village ; and they then told us
how dreadfully close they were, and how they
had been pushed for food. The officers and
PRIVATIONS AT PITCAIRN IN 1853. 229
crew of the Virago had handsomely presented
them with all their savings of provisions. But
for this timely supply, their distress would have
been much more sharply felt. They made the
best of their narration, trying to say that they
generally fared so well, that the least privation
seemed to them a great hardship ; but their thin
figures and low spirits told the truth.
" We staid from Monday until Thursday
morning, and passed our time in much the same
manner as before, taking walks over the Island,
sketching, talking, and singing: truly a more
innocent and delightful race could not exist
The Admiral was, with much reason, pleased
with the progress made by Jane Nobbs. Whilst
she was at Valparaiso we saw very little of her,
in order that she might apply closely to her
studies; but on our passage we had time to
form a correct opinion of her. She had learnt
to sew neatly, with many other useful domestic
accomplishments, and all this without losing in
the least her pristine simplicity and modesty.
I trust she will prove a useful member of the
community.
" On Thursday we left, and shaped our course
for the Gambier Islands ; we sighted them the
same evening ; but the weather was so bad, we
dared not attempt to pass through the narrow
entrance of the reef. For some days the wea-
ther was worse ; and as it was a fair wind for
Pitcairn, we bore up, and soon sighted the Island
again. It was thick dirty weather, and as we
stood in, no boat came off ; so we thought they
could not communicate. We stood off and on
230 SICKNESS AMONG THE PEOPLE.
for a few hours, thinking that the weather would
moderate, and then bore round, intending to fire
a gun or two, and then away. But just then I
caught the flash of an oar, and said, * There's
the boat, Sir. : For some time the flag-lieutenant
and others wanted to persuade us it was a rock ;
"but as it rose on each wave, I said that ' it was
a living rock, then. 7
" At last they were convinced ; so we hove to,
and five of them came on board in their whale-
boat. They had a sad tale to tell ; all were sick
on shore, having been attacked, the day after we
sailed, with the influenza. As it was bad dirty
weather, we hoisted the boat in, and stood off
and on for the night. We gave the poor fellows
a good supper, and they related all their woes.
It was decided that early the next morning, the
Captain, Doctor Palmer, and myself, should
land, and see what was to be done. In the
mean time we got ready a quantity of tea, sugar,
biscuit, &c, for them.. On Sunday morning we
landed, and found most of the poor things in
bed. Some, not so bad as the others, got up to
receive us. The Doctor visited, and did all he
could to relieve them ; three or four of the cases
he found very bad, and he would willingly have
remained three or four days ; but as he had
given directions, and done all he could, the
Admiral decided to leave. (
) "You can hardly think how sad it was, seeing
four-fifths of them so ill. We visited each
house, and spoke a word of comfort here and
there to those most desponding. Tea was their
great want, and they seemed so thankful for the
LETTER FROM ADMIRAL MORESBY. 231
little I took for them ; some immediately made
a large kettle full, and said they felt better.
Mr. Nobbs, Reuben, and Jane were nearly the
only ones entirely free from sickness ; showing
that the strong food they had been living on
was their medicine ; for the poor Islanders,
famine-struck and weak, had no strength left to
resist the disease. At 4 P.M. on Sunday, we
were compelled to leave them once more ; and
so all our distress came over again, because we
left them all ill, and were anxious for their
future state.
" Now we are fairly off, I suppose. Never more
shall I see Pitcairn ; but if I never see it again,
I can never forget it. To me it will ever be the
gem of all the places I have ever seen, or shall
see, in the varied roamings of a sailor's life."
Thus vividly, with a rapid pen, did the youth-
ful sailor, the Admiral's youngest son, describe
the events in which he had borne a part in an
interesting period of his life. Afterwards, in
another clime, and amidst other scenes and
duties, his thoughts often recurred to Pitcairn ;
but he little imagined that it would be his
happy privilege to see the same friends again,
though on a totally different spot.
I Admiral Moresby, in a letter of the same
date, on his passage in the Portland, from Pit-,
cairn to Lima, wrote as follows :
" Our voyage to Pitcairn was long thirty
days ; but with Mr. Nobbs, Reuben, and Jane
on board, we had a pleasant time. Sad wasjhe
232 LETTERS TO ADMIRAL MORESBY
first appearance of the Islanders ; for hunger
had nearly worn them to the bone. Our arrival
was most opportune."
During the Admiral's visit, and shortly before
his departure from the Island, he seized the
golden opportunity of affording the inhabitants
good advice on several important points con-
nected with their peculiar state and position.
It is, perhaps, scarcely necessary to add that
the words of so kind a benefactor were received
and treasured up with respect and gratitude.
These feelings are best expressed by themselves
in a letter to the Admiral.
"PITCAIRN'S ISLAND, 18^ May, 1853.
" HONOURED SIR,
" We, the undersigned Magistrate and Coun-
cillors of Pitcairn's Island, having, according to
your request, convened a public meeting of the
inhabitants of this island, have the satisfaction
to inform you that, as regards your wise pro-
position for the amendment of certain laws
relative to the duties of the Chief Magistrate,
the age at which he and his councillors are
eligible to hold such offices, &c. &c., we, to-
gether with the rest of the community, do unani-
mously and fully acquiesce in your opinion, and
will lose no time in attending to all your kind
suggestions.
" As regards the necessity of removing to
some other island or place, it is very evident
that the time is not far distant when Pitcairn's
Island will be altogether inadequate to the
ON THE NECESSITY OF REMOVAL. 233
rapidly increasing population ; and the inha-
bitants do unanimously agree in soliciting the
aid of the British Government in transferring
them to Norfolk Island, or some other appro-
priate place ; and desire that the funds which
you have so benevolently and condescendingly
(with the assistance of other benefactors) col-
lected in England for the benefit of this com-
munity, should be reserved and appropriated in
assisting them in such a step whenever it should
become necessary.
" With high sentiments of gratitude and
respect, permit us, in the name of the commu-
nity, to subscribe ourselves,
" Your obedient,
" Very humble servants,
" (Signed) ARTHUR QUINTAL, Jun., Magistrate.
" THOMAS BUFFETT, 1st Councillor,
" EDWARD QUINTAL, 2d Councillor.
To Rear-Admiral Fairfax Moresby. C.B.,
Commander-m-Chief, &c. &c. &c. '
To Rear-Admiral Moresby, &c. The Portland.
"HONOURED SIR,
" We, the undersigned Magistrate and Coun-
cillors of Pitcairn's Island, having, after your
departure, convened a public meeting of ^ the
inhabitants of the island, and your propositions
being carefully read over to the people, have the
satisfaction to inform you that not an objection
is made by the inhabitants against one of your
Honour's wise propositions ; and that we, together
234 LETTERS OF THANKS.
with, the rest of the community, do unanimously
and fully acquiesce in your opinion, and will
lose no time in attending to all your kind sug-
gestions.
"We cannot conclude without expressing our
grateful thanks to you for all your kindness to
us, especially for the late supply of sugar and
tea you have so condescendingly presented to
the community of Pitcairn's Island.
" We sincerely hope and pray that Almighty
God will bless your earnest endeavours for our
welfare, both spiritual and temporal; and rest
assured that our sincere prayers for your eternal
happiness shall ever follow you.
! " Subscribing ourselves yours affectionately,
" (Signed) ARTHUR QUINTAL, Jun.,
Magistrate of Pitcairn.
" THOMAS BUFFETT, Councillor.
" EDWARD QUINTAL, Councillor"
To Rear- Admiral Moresby, Portland.
"PITCAIRN'S ISLAND, Sept. 12th, 1853.
" HONOURED AND RESPECTED SIR,
"We, the inhabitants of Pitcairn's Island,
embrace the earliest opportunity of addressing
your Honour, thanking you for your disinte-
rested kindness towards us. Tour fatherly
kindness, we trust, will be indelibly impressed
upon our memory. We may truly say, < When
we were sick you visited us,' and the necessary
articles you sent on shore were of great service
to us. Through the goodness of the Lord, the
sickness did not prove fatal to any, although it
TOKEN OF DUTY TO THE QUEEN. 235'
was several weeks before we all recovered, and
even now some feel the effects of it.
" Will jour Honour be pleased to return our
sincere thanks to the nobility and gentry who
so kindly subscribed to the Pitcairn Fund, to
the Committee, and all our kind friends ? And
we hope, by Divine assistance, we may live as
becomes those who are bound by so many obli-
gations.
" By your Honour's suggestion, we have
made a small chest of drawers for her gracious
Majesty the Queen, which we hope you will
have the honour of presenting to her Majesty.
It is made of the Island wood; and we should
be much pleased if her Majesty would accept it
as a token of our loyalty and respect. You
know, honoured Sir. our means are very limited,
and our mechanical skill likewise, and we hope
her Majesty will receive it as the widow's mite
the will for the deed. Will your Honour
give our kind respects to your sons, our kind
friends Fairfax, and Fortescue, Captain Chads,
and especially to our late Pastor, Eev. W. H.
Holm an, and all the officers and crew of H.M.S.
Portland?
" We remain, honoured Sir,
" Your much obliged and grateful Servants,
" The Inhabitants of Pitcairn's Island.
" (Signed) ARTHUR QUINTAL, Magistrate,
" THOMAS BUFFETT, Councillor,
" EDWARD QUINTAL, Councillor,
"In the name and on behalf of the Community."
236 AID TO THE ISLANDEES.
In a letter from Valparaiso, dated 30th Sep-
tember, 1853, the Admiral said :
"You will be pleased to know that I de-
spatched the Dido yesterday, laden with all the
supplies that have been sent from England.
Private contributions have also been liberally
forwarded of things that the late scarcity and sub-
sequent epidemic made it necessary to think of.
The two afflictions made me anxious as to their
present state ; for the failure of their crops would
deprive them of their usual means of barter.
" We have sent them a milch cow and calf,
and two fine heifers of a small breed ; and I
have placed a quantity of provisions to be dis-
posed of or retained, as Captain Morshead may
find occasion.
" The special donation for Pitcairn Island, of
22?. 195 7d., I have laid out in the purchase of
a whale-boat, and completed her with sails, oars,
&c. from private aid. The boat is to them of
the first consequence; they having only one
serviceable, that was given by the officers and
crew of the Portland.
" I sincerely hope it will please God to bless
your endeavours to retain this community a
peculiar people, planted for His wise purpose on
that ocean rock."
This letter was soon followed by one from
Mr. Fortescue Moresby, dated " Portland, at
Caldera, 17th December, 1853." The following
are extracts :
" The mail has this moment arrived from the
South, bringing us the news of the Dido's return
LETTER FROM CAPTAIN MORSHEAD. 237
from Pitcairn's Island. As she sails in less than
an hour, you will excuse my condensing the news
we have received, the Admiral having directed
me to write to you, as he says he feels sure you
will be glad to receive any news from the island,
in which you have taken so great an interest.
" Captain Morshead writes as follows :
" ' On landing, I was met by the whole popu-
lation, with their highly esteemed and reverend
minister, Mr. Nobbs, at their head; and I am
happy to add that, owing to the supplies left by
yourself in the Portland last May, they speedily
recovered from the effects of the famine; and,
with one exception, the whole island was in
perfect health. During my stay on shore I
assembled the inhabitants, and acquainted them,
in compliance with your order, that their memo-
rial relative to Norfolk Island had been forwarded
by you from Callao last June.
" ' I took the opportunity of attending Divine
Service on Sunday, when the whole adult con-
gregation received the Sacrament from their
minister, Mr. Nobbs ; and I feel it must be gra-
tifying to all who are interested in their welfare
to hear of their increasing respect and attach-
ment to him, since his return amongst them as
their ordained minister, respected and loved as
he has ever been ; all were perfectly aware of
the additional advantages which his ordination
has conferred upon them. The person who had
the medical charge during Mr. Nobbs's absence
still continues to act, yet every case is superin-
tended by Mr. Nobbs himself, and on our arrival
we found he had a patient suffering from dropsy;
238 CAPTAIN MORSHEAD'S TESTIMONY.
and during our stay he had to attend a young
woman nearly burnt to death, as well as to
attend to another serious case; and although our
surgeon or his assistants were soon after in
attendance, to whom he resigned the case, yet
everything had been done by Mr. Nobbs that
their professional experience could approve, and
all appeared unanimous that no one could be
better adapted to their general wants.
i " ' 1 trust I may be allowed to add my testi-
mony to their already established reputation for
morality and virtue. With the Scriptures daily,
even hourly, in their hands, it is impossible that
any can act from higher principles or purer
motives ; and all their impulses happily appear
for good, while their goodness ever inclines
them to judge charitably of the faults of others.
But so simple and confiding is their nature, that
any designing person thrown amongst them
might easily destroy their peace and harmony.
It has never been my lot to witness a commu-
nity more entitled to admiration and respect ;
and, with this estimation of their character, it
is impossible to separate the credit that is due
to Mr. Nobbs, who has been their friend and
teacher for twenty-five years, and is now happily
their spiritual guide and minister. A glance
at the public records of the island, where their
delight is expressed at Mr. Nobbs's return, and
he is welcomed back as their "worthy Pastor"
and "dear kind Friend" will evince their feel-
ing towards him better than any language of
my own. 7
" The steamer only stays here an hour, and
LETTER FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS. 239
is at this moment fretting like a curbed horse
under our stern, waiting for the Admiral's
despatches."
Mr. Nobbs's own account of his return, and
of the state of the island, cannot fail to prove
interesting.
ft PITCAIRN'S ISLAND, July 21, 1853.
" It has pleased our heavenly Father to per-
mit me to return in safety to my island home,
and to a happy meeting with my family. I
arrived here in H.M.S. Portland on the 15th of
May, bringing with me my son and daughter.
Admiral Moresby has continued to the last an
untiring benefactor, to myself in particular, and
the islanders in general. The expense and
trouble he has put himself to on our account
would almost exceed belief; his reward is with
Him who doeth all things well. We landed on
the Sabbath; and after the evening service,
when Mr. Holman preached his farewell sermon,
I read from the pulpit my ordination letters and
licence as Chaplain of Pitcairn Island, granted
me by my honoured patron, the Lord Bishop of
London. The Portland remained off the island
four days, and then left us for the Gambier
Islands. The next day after her departure, the
influenza made its appearance; and as there
were two or three persons on board the Portland
who were affected with bronchitis, I am inclined
to think the germs of the disease were derived
from them. Unfortunately, the wind was from
the north-west, and the atmosphere was very
dense and heated, which acted as fuel to the
contagion ; and so rapid was its progress, that
Q
240 LETTER FROM THE REV. G. fl. NOBBS.
in one week there were not ten persons capable
of attending to their own wants.- It was the
most severe attack since 1840, the date of its
first appearance among us.
" After an elapse of nine "days, the Portland
returned ; and the people on board her observing
a flag flying on the shore, supposed it to be an
intimation that the surf was too heavy to admit
of boats landing, and the vessel was in the very
act of sailing away, when they providentially
observed our boat coming off. On their making
known to the Admiral our sad condition, he
humanely lay by all night (it being very late
when our boat got on board), and in the morn-
ing sent Captain Chads and his Secretary, with
one of the ship's surgeons, to our assistance* As
my small stock of tea and sugar was almost
exhausted by imparting to those that had none,
the Admiral sent on shore a good supply, and
the officers also contributed biscuits and other
necessaries. 1 attribute the severity with which
the disease was felt, to the debilitated state of
the community, owing to the scarcity of food
which prevailed for some months prior to my
arrival ; when they had been reduced to great
straits, in consequence of the want of rain, which
had prevented their planting their usual crop of
sweet potatoes. It was for some weeks almost
actual starvation; their only resource being
half-grown pumpkins.
" My dear wife, while relating to me the history
of their privations, said the circumstance which
used to affect her most was, that the younger
children would wake up about midnight, and cry
LETTER FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS. 241
for hours from sheer hunger; so unsubstantial was
the fare they had partaken of previous to their
going to bed. And I well know, when my
children cry from hunger, their good mother's
sufferings, mentally and bodily, must have been
very great. After remaining with us twenty-four
hours, the good Admiral was constrained to leave
us, by reason of the water on board for drinking
getting short. His destination was Callao.
Myself and my son and daughter, who came
with me, escaped the epidemic, and the rest of
the community have pearly recovered. No deaths
have occurred; so that we are able to sing of
mercy and judgment.
"I have administered the Holy Sacrament
once since my return, and design (D.V.) to do
so monthly. We have about 75 communicants.
The number of inhabitants amount to 172; 85
males, 87 females. A dreadful accident occurred
f during my absence. H.M.S. Virago was just
on the point of quitting the island ; most of the
community were on board taking leave ; the few
who remained on shore had assembled round
the Bounty 's gun, with the intention of firing a
farewell salute. Matthew M'Coy was employed
ramming home the cartridge, when the gun
accidentally exploded ; the poor man was dread-
fully injured, and survived but a few hours,
'although he had the attendance of two surgeons
from the Virago. He left a family of nine
children to mourn his loss. Two other persons
were badly wounded, and it was doubtful for
some time if they would survive : one of them
etill suffers from his wounds.
Q2
242 LETTER FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS.
" I should be very thankful for some copies
of some small work upon the Holy Communion :
from not having been in a capacity to administer
it hitherto, I feel that my flock have not had so
much instruction from me on this momentous
subject, as they ought to have had."
" Nov. 3, 1853.
" The Dido has just arrived. She has brought
large quantities of stores for us, both from the
Government, yourself, and others : but we shall
not have an opportunity of opening them before
the Dido leaves, so I cannot add anything to
the accompanying letter ; but as soon as possible
after the division of the articles among the fami-
lies, I shall trouble you with an account of our
proceedings. You would be amused to see what
a state of excitement our people are in. I think
it must in some degree resemble the first opening
of the Crystal Palace.
u I trust you will excuse this hasty and per-
haps unsatisfactory scrawl, but I have twenty
letters to write, the Captain of the Dido to
accompany in his visits to the several families,
and also to attend the landing of the goods."
The Chaplain's want of certain books had
been anticipated; a supply of works on the
Holy Communion, the late Bishop Blomfield's
Family Prayers, and other publications, having
been despatched, as a grant from the Society for
Promoting Christian Knowledge.
i From the above correspondence, it will be
seen that these loyal islanders had prepared a
ADDRESS TO HER MAJESTY. 243
specimen of their mechanical taste and industry,
as a loyal offering to the Queen. It was brought
to England by Admiral Moresby, accompanied
by an humble address, couched in the language
of duty and affection :
"PITCAIRN'S ISLAND, July 27th, 1853.
"MAY IT PLEASE YOUR MAJESTY,
"We, your Majesty's loyal and devoted sub-
jects the inhabitants of Pitcairn's Island, avail
ourselves of an opportunity just offered us, to
assure your gracious Majesty of our loyal attach-
ment to your person and Government.
" The recollection of the visits of your Majesty's
ships to our island will be preserved with pride
and gratitude ; and we desire to express, in the
most unqualified manner, our thanks for these
gracious marks of royal favour. We humbly
trust we may be allowed to consider ourselves
your Majesty's subjects, and Pitcairn's Island a
British colony, as long as it is inhabited by us,
in the fullest sense of the word.
" Several years since, the Captain of your
Majesty's ship Fly took formal possession of
our little island, and placed us under your
Majesty's protection. And if your Majesty's
Government would grant us a document, de-
claring us an integral part of your Majesty's
dominions, we should be freed from all fears
(perhaps groundless) on that head ; and such a
gracious mark of royal favour would be cherished
by us to an exertion in the discharge of the
various duties incumbent on British subjects.
244 ADDRESS TO HER MAJESTY.
" The Commander-in-Chief for the time being
in the Pacific Ocean has permitted a ship of
war to visit us occasionally ; and we humbly
trust your Majesty will be pleased to permit
those visits to be continued, if your Majesty's
Government should think fit to remove us to
some other place.
" At the suggestion of our worthy benefactor,
Rear-Admiral Moresby, we have ventured to
present your gracious Majesty with a small
chest of drawers of our own manufacture from
the island wood. The native name of the dark
wood is Miro. The bottoms of the drawers are
made of the bread-fruit-tree. Our means are
very limited, and our mechanical skill also;
and we will esteem it a great favour if your
Majesty would condescend to accept of it as a
token of our loyalty and respect.
" In conclusion, we beg to add our earnest
desire and prayer that your Majesty may long
live to govern those whom God has placed
under your Majesty's care and protection. May
He strengthen, protect and prosper you, is the
earnest desire of your Majesty's loyal and devoted
subjects, the inhabitants of Pitcairn's Island.
(Signed) " ARTHUR QUINTAL, JUN.,
" Chief Magistrate of Pitcairn's Island. 19
The piece of cabinet-work, formed of island
wood, was humbly forwarded for Her Majesty's
acceptance, by Admiral Moresby, who was soon
informed by the Duke of Newcastle, that the
Queen had been pleased to accept this offering
very graciously. It was added, " I am further
DESCRIPTION OF NORFOLK ISLAND. 245 ;
to state, that Her Majesty expressed her gratifi-
cation at receiving this mark of loyalty and
esteem from her subjects on Pitcairn's Island."
The Queen's gracious recognition of the
islanders as her subjects was much valued by
them. They had been previously informed that
a formal document, declaring them a part of
Her Majesty's dominions, might imply doubts
which did not really exist.
The reader will have observed that the people
had made a request to be removed to some
spot, exempt from the visitations of famine; j
and that Norfolk Island, which, they under- !
stood, was no longer to be a penal settle-
ment, had been pointed out by themselves as
the scene of their future residence.* This island,
which is situate on the 29th parallel of south
latitude, north of New Zealand, is thus described
by the Rev. F. S. Batchelor, who resided there
between three and four years.
" The island is about twenty miles in cir-
cumference, with an average breadth of five
or six miles. It is beautifully diversified with
hills and dales, or, as the latter are generally
designated, i gullies;' and these low lands are
exuberantly fertile. On the same plot of earth
are growing pine-apples, figs, guavas, lemons,
pomegranates, Cape-gooseberries, bananas, plan-
tains, grapes, peaches, strawberries, apples,
quinces, potatoes, cabbages, peas, and beans.
Cinnamon and other spices abound; while
tobacco, arrow-root, red pepper and sweet pota-
toes, can be cultivated to any extent. Maize,--
* See page 233.
246 DESCRIPTION OF NORFOLK ISLAND.
barley, wheat, and rye, grow on the higher and
more level land. In my time the commandant,
J. Price, Esq., introduced the cocoa-nut tree
and planted orange-trees in all directions; which,
doubtless, before this, have brought forth fruit
to perfection. Thousands of acres are in high
cultivation ; and much more of the island can be
speedily reclaimed, and made available for any
purpose. Fortunately, too, there are a number
of capital stone-built houses, really large and
handsome buildings, which would not disgrace
our large cities* and plenty of store-houses,
granaries, barns, &c., with a neat chapel, capable
of holding a thousand persons ; not to mention
another similar building, formerly used by the
Roman Catholics for divine service. Indeed,
I should think it might be designated an island
of palaces, compared with Pitcairn's Island, and
its accommodations. Besides tools, and other
implements of husbandry, now in use by the
convict population, there is a capital stock of
cows, sheep, horses, pigs, and poultry, whicli
would be invaluable to a new community.
" There are plenty of fish to be caught at all
seasons : salmon, herrings, trumpeter, king-fish,
snapper, guard-fish, and mullet ; some of which
are very delicate and delicious, and all eatable :
while in the fresh water streams, which inter-
sect the island in all directions, there are mag-
nificent eels, weighing from one to seven pounds.
There is doubtless great danger in fishing from
the rocks which stud the coast, as the sea
often rises, in a moment, to the height of seven
or ten feet; and the drawback, or receding
PEOPOSED KEMOVAL TO NORFOLK ISLAND. 247
of the waves, is absolutely terrific, so that
few Europeans washed off. have been able to
make the land again. However, the Pitcairners
must have been accustomed from their infancy
to fish in such dangerous waters, so they would
feel quite at home. The whole island teems
with life. Parrots and parroquets, of various
kinds, swarm in your path. Pigeons (originally
the common English pigeon let loose) are in
innumerable flocks; and magnificent wood-
guests, plovers, and sandpipers are often to be
had. No venomous reptile of any kind is on
the island ; and it is very rarely indeed that
you ever feel or see the mosquito, which seems
indigenous to all other warm localities."
The first mention of Norfolk Island as 'a fit
place for the reception of the Pitcairn com-
munity, occurs in a despatch from the lit. Hon.
Sir John S. Pakington, Bart., to Lieut.-Governor
Sir W. Denison, dated Downing-street, Dec. 15,
1852. In this despatch Sir W. Denison was
requested to transmit a report respecting the
management requisite for the evacuation of the
Island, and as to its resources, buildings, &c.,
.d its suitableness to the people of Pitcairn.
An official communication, respecting the
.ecessity of such a removal, was made by
B. Toup Nicolas, Esq., Her Majesty's Consul
at Raiatea, Society Islands, in a letter dated the
3rd of April, 1853, addressed to the Earl of
Malmesbury.
In that year it was determined by the British
Government to accede to the request of the
people, and to transfer to Norfolk Island such
an
ne<
248 BISHOP OF NEW ZEALAND*
of them as should desire to go thither. The
benevolent plan thus decided upon was notified
to the Pitcairn Fund Committee by letters from
Herman Merivale, Esq., Under Secretary for the
Colonies, dated December 14, 1853, and April 6,
1854. Under this arrangement, instructions
were given to the Lieutenant-Governor of
Norfolk Island, not to allow the lands on the
island to be occupied by any other class of
settlers.
The measures for the transfer were for some
time postponed, in consequence of certain requi-
site delays in the clearance of Norfolk Island of
all its convict population. During the period
of consideration and inquiry, in the summer of
the year 1854, it was suggested by the excellent
and energetic Bishop of New Zealand, who was
then in England, that a college, which he was
desirous of establishing, as the centre of the
Melanesian (or Black-Islander) Mission, might
be settled on Norfolk Island ; the buildings on
the island being, according to the account of the
Bishop, of a capacity equal to that of all the
.Colleges in the University of Cambridge. >
The Pitcairn Fund Committee, then sitting in
London, expressed their opinion, that such an
employment of the buildings as Bishop Selwyn
had proposed, would in no way interfere with the
well-being of the Pitcairn Islanders, if proper
precautions were taken that the community of
Pitcairn should be kept distinct, both as to pro-
perty and self-government ; and that the whole
Island should be protected from the intrusion
of other settlers...
PITCAIRN FUND COMMITTEE, 249
This view of the subject was duly communi-
cated, in July, 1854, to the Government. Both
in the general measure, however, of the transfer
from Pitcairn to Norfolk Island, and in all its
details, the Government took such a course as
seemed to them the best. To the Government
belongs the credit of the act, in the execution
of which they evidently proceeded in accord-
ance with what they deemed to be the wishes
of the islanders themselves, who, as it will
be seen, repeated their entreaty to Captain
Fremantle, on his visit to Pitcairn, in Sep-
tember, 1855, that they might be permitted
to live on Norfolk Island, in the same kind of
seclusion from the rest of the world as they had
lived at Pitcairn.
Allusion having been made to the Pitcairn
Fund Committee, it is time to add a few words
relative to their efforts for the Islanders.
In consequence of the scanty resources of
Pitcairn' s Island, some noblemen and gentlemen
were induced, on the recommendation of Sir F.
Moresby, with the aid of Lady Moresby, Captain
and Mrs. Prevost, and Mr, and Mrs. White, of
Grantham, to raise a fund for the passage and
outfit of Mr. Nobbs, after his ordination, and
for the supply of such things as were deemed
requisite for the inhabitants. Labourers' and
carpenters' tools, a proper bell for the church,
medicines, a few clocks, clothing of various
sorts, simple articles of furniture, cooking utensils,
&c,, were required.
The first meeting of the Committee was held
at the Admiralty, Somerset House, on the 3rd of
250 PITCAIKN FUND COMMITTEE.
December, 1852. The then Bishop of London,
Dr. Blomfield, was in the chair on that occasion.
The Eev. G. H. Nobbs had been invited to at-
tend, and was present. Mr. Nobbs was requested
by the Committee to furnish a list of articles
wanted ; and a statement was supplied by him
accordingly. The authorities at the Admiralty
kindly assigned, for the use of the Islanders,
such of the articles in his list as were among
those stores of the victualling department which
were not wanted for their original purpose.
The rest were purchased from the fund, raised
by means of liberal contributions, and were
despatched in June, 1853, to Pitcairn.
The Society for Promoting Christian Know-
ledge, at a general meeting on the 7th of De-
cember, 1852, granted One Hundred Pounds
towards this fund. Mr. Nobbs was present, and
addressed the Board,
Admiral Moresby generously added to his
former benefactions One Hundred Pounds.
The exertions made in this good cause proved
remarkably successful. Not only were the need-
ful articles paid for from the means subscribed,
but the sum of Five Hundred Pounds was
invested in the stocks, for the future benefit of
the Islanders. A whale-boat was bought, and
sent out for them, from the same source. Agri-
cultural implements, and other requisite articles,
costing upwards of one hundred pounds, have
since been purchased at Auckland for the com-
munity by a deputation consisting of Messrs.
Buffett and Evans, who went thither with the
Bishop of New Zealand in the Southern Cross.
PITCAIRN FUND COMMITTEE. 251
Though the attention of the Committee was
mainly directed to the task of supplying the
islanders with needful things for their support
and comfort, the Members could not be indif-
ferent to the progress of events in connexion with
the prospects and well-being of the community ;
and they unanimously expressed their willing-
ness to assign the remainder of the money under
their care to certain useful purposes, which were
specified by Sir William Denison, the Governor
of New South Wales and Norfolk Island.
The particulars of the assignment of the
balance to objects required for the community
will be stated in the latter part of this work.
The following are the names of the noblemen
and gentlemen who formed the Committee:
The Earl of Harrowby.
The Bishop of London (Dr.
Blomfield).
Tke Bishop of Oxford (Dr.
Wilberforce).
Sir T. T. Grant, K.C.B.
William Cotton, Esq.
T. F. Elliot, Esq.
Captain E. G. Fanshawe, R.N.
Archdeacon Grant.
The Lord Auckland, Bishop Rev. Ernest Hawkins, M.A.
of Bath and Wells.
The Bishop of New Zealand.
Hon. George Waldegrave.
Sir Thomas Dyke Acland,Bart.
His Excellency Sir G. Grey,
Vice Admiral Sir Fairfax
Moresby, K.C.B.
Treasurers and Trustees The Lord Bishop of London
Sir Thomas Dyke Acland, Bart. M.P. ;
William Cotton, Esq.
Honorary Secretary Rev. T. B. Murray, M.A.
Honorary Assistant Secretary G. C. Silk, Esq.
Captain Inglefield, R.K
Captain Prevost, R.N.
Herman Merivale, Esq.
Arthur Mills, Esq., M.P.
Fortescue Moresby, Esq.,
R.N.
CHAPTER X.
SOME ACCOUNT OP THE LAWS OF PITCAIRN THE ISLAND
REGISTER REUBEN AND FRANCIS NOBBS REUBEN'S LETTER
TO ADMIRAL MORESBY REUBEN'S LAST ILLNESS HIS DEATH*
SOME account of the Laws of Pitcairn will
be expected "by tlie reader. The simple code
of the Islanders, whilst they inhabited that spot,
will serve to show with how few laws a right-
minded Christian community may be governed.
Early in their history they laid down a rule for
themselves, never to make a law until it should
t be wanted.
LAW RESPECTING THE MAGISTRATE.
The Magistrate is to convene the public on
occasions of complaint being made to him ; and
on hearing both sides of the question, commit
it to a jury. He is to see all fines levied, and
all public works executed ; and every one must
treat him with respect. He is not to -assume
any power or authority on his own responsi-
bility, or without the consent of the majority
of the people. A public journal shall be kept
by the magistrate, and shall from time to time
be read ; so that no one shall plead ignorance
of the law for any crime he may commit. This
journal shall be submitted to the inspection
of those captains of British men-of-war which
occasionally touch at the island.
LAWS Afr TO THE SCHOOL. 2o3
N.B. Every person, from the age of fifteen
and upwards, shall pay a fine similar to masters
'* of families.
LAWS REGARDING THE SCHOOL.
There must be a school kept, to which all
parents shall be obliged to send their children,
who must previously be able to repeat the
alphabet, and be of the age of from six to six-
teen. Mr. Nobbs shall be placed at the head
of the school, assisted by such persons as shall
be named by the chief magistrate. The school-
hours shall be from seven o'clock in the morning
until noon, on all days excepting Saturdays
and Sundays ; casualties and sickness excepted.
One shilling, or an equivalent, as marked below,
shall be paid for each child per month, by the
parents, whether the child attend school or not.
In case Mr. Nobbs does not attend, the assistant
appointed by the chief magistrate shall receive
the salary in proportion to the time Mr. Nobbs
is absent.
I
Equivalent for money :
s. d.
One barrel of yams, valued at .... 8
One barrel of sweet potatoes .... 8
One barrel of Irish potatoes . . .12
Three good bunches of plantains ... 4
One day's labour . e ...... 2
The chief magistrate is to see the labour well
performed : and goods which may be given for
money, shall be delivered either at the market-
place or at the house of Mr. Nobbs, as he may
direct.
It may here be remarked that the worthy
254 AS JTO LANDMARKS, TRADING, ETC.
schoolmaster having become godfather to many
of the children, charges nothing for the instruc-
tion of his godchildren.
LAWS RESPECTING LANDMARKS,
On the 1st of January, after the magistrate
is elected, he shall assemble all those who
should be deemed necessary; and with them
he is to visit all landmarks that are upon the
island, and replace those that are lost. Should
anything occur to prevent its accomplishment
in the time specified (the 1st of January), the
magistrate is bound to see it done the first
opportunity,
LAWS FOR TRADING WITH SHIPS.
No person or persons shall be allowed to
get spirits of any sort, from any vessel, or sell it
to strangers, or any person on the island. Any-
one found guilty of so doing shall be punished
by fine, or such other punishment as a jury
shall determine on. No intoxicating liquor
whatever shall be allowed to be taken on shore,
unless it be for medicinal purposes. Any person
found guilty of transgressing this law shall be
severely punished by a jury. No females are
allowed to go on board a foreign vessel of any
size or description, without the permission of the
magistrate ; and in case the magistrate does not
go on board himself, he is to appoint four men
to look after the females.
LAWS AS TO DOGS AND CATS. 255
LAWS FOR DOGS.
If any one's dog is found chasing a goat,
the owner of that dog shall pay a fine of one
dollar and a half; one dollar to the owner of
the goat or gpats, and the other half to the
informer. If a dog kills, or otherwise injures
a goat, the owner of the dog so offending must
pay the damage ; but should suspicion rest on
no particular dog, the owners of dogs generally
must pay the damage. The foregoing law is of
110 effect when the goat or goats are upon culti-
vated ground. Persons who have fowls or hogs
in the bush may take dogs to hunt them ; but
should the dogs commit damage during the hunt,
the person taking the dogs to hunt must pay the
damage.
LAWS FOR CATS.
If any person under the age of ten years
shall kill a cat, he or she shall receive corporal
punishment. If any one, between the ages of ten
and fifteen, kill a cat, he or she shall pay a fine
of twenty-five dollars ; half the fine to be given
to the informer, the other half to the public. All
masters of families convicted of killing a cat
shall be fined fifty dollars ; half the fine to be
given to the informer x the other half to the
public.
If a fowl be seen trespassing in a garden,
the proprietor of the garden is allowed to shoot
and keep it, while the owner of the fowl is
obliged to return the charge of powder and shot
R
256 PUBLIC WORKS,
expended in killing the bird. (This is the law ;
but the practice is to send back the dead fowl,
and drop the claim for ammunition.) If a pig
be seen trespassing, no one is allowed to give
information excepting to the owner of the land,
that he may not be baulked in whatever course
he may think to adopt.
Squid (a glutinous fish, in shape not unlike
a starfish) is not allowed to be taken for food
from off the rocks at the north end of the island,
excepting by the owner of the rocks ; but any
one may take it for bait, when going fishing.
Carving upon trees is forbidden. " It seems,"
says Mr. Brodie, " that the lads and maidens
used to amuse themselves with carving true love-
knots, which are considered by the elders, who
had written their own long ago, as a practice
fraught with danger." The trees generally used
for the above purposes were the large banana
and plantain. It is as easy to write upon the
leaves of these trees as upon paper.
PUBLIC WORKS.
The magistrate for the time being is obliged
to superintend the execution of all public works,
among which are ranked the building of houses,
fresh thatching them -which is necessary every
seven years reparations and alterations of the
church, roads, and water-tanks, three of which
have been cut out of the solid rock, on the
west side of the island, for the supply of ves-
sels, &c. In these public works, one member
of each family (excepting that of Mr, Nobbs) is
AS TO CATS, FOWLS, GOATS, ETC, 257
obliged to assist. With regard to the school-
house and schoolmaster's residence, they are kept
in repair, and altered as required, by the parents
of those children who attend ; the labour contri -
buted by each family being proportionate to the
number of children it sends.
When a man marries, he takes a share of
his father's land, which land is equally divided
among his children. The wife takes her pro-
portion from her own father's land, and joins it
to her husband's land ; so that the young couple
come immediately into their landed property.
It may appear strange that even the rocks
upon the sea-shore should be shared out as
private property: but they are of value for the
collection of sea salt.
LAWS FOR THE PUBLIC ANVIL, ETC.
Any person taking the public anvil and
public sledge-hammer from the blacksmith's
shop, is to take it back after he has done with
it; and in case the anvil and sledge-hammer
should get lost by his neglecting to take it back,
he is to get another anvil and sledge-hammer,
and pay a fine of four shillings.
With regard to the laws as to CATS, FOWLS,
&c., the Rev. G. H. Nobbs stated as follows:
If a CAT is killed without being positively
detected in killing fowls, however strong the
suspicion may be, the person killing such cat is
obliged, as a penalty, to destroy 300 rats, whose
tails must be submitted for the inspection of the
B2
258 THE PITCAIRN BANK.
magistrate, by way of proof that the penalty
has been paid.
If a FOWL is found destroying the yams or
potatoes, the owner of the plantation, after
giving due warning, may shoot the fowl, and
retain it for his use, and may demand of the
owner of such fowl the amount of powder and
shot so expended, as well as the fowl. The
fowls are all toe-marked.
GOATS and other quadrupeds are ear-marked.
If a pig gets loose from its sty, and commits
any depredation, the owner is obliged to make
good the damage, according to the decision
of the magistrate, whose duty it is to survey
the injury alleged to be done, and from whose
decision a reference, if necessary, may be made
to a jury ; but the final appeal is to the cap-
tain of the next man-of-war touching at the
island.
A BANK was set on foot a few years since
at Pitcairn. The dollars, which were not very
numerous, were allowed to accumulate for a
time, partly with the object of purchasing a
vessel. But the plan did not answer, and the
several deposits were returned to their owners.
The islanders have, however, found means to
contribute from their humble resources to the
funds of the Society for the Propagation of the
Gospel. In each of the years 1854, 1855, and
1856, they have subscribed according to their
ability; their last annual benefaction having
"been upwards of forty dollars.
THE REGISTER OF PITCAIRN'S ISLAND, from
1790 to 1854, is a very interesting document,
PUBLIC KEGISTER, 1790 93. 259
and will probably be of great value hereafter,
as a record of names and events connected with
that little world.
The author has lately had the pleasure of
receiving, as a present from the islanders, the
original folio manuscript volume of the Register.
A memorandum, inserted between the end of
the Journal and the beginning of the Shipping
List, is in the handwriting of the Rev. G. H.
Nobbs, and states that the book had suffered
so much from getting wet with salt water, when
taken on board the Virago, early in 1853, during
his absence, that it had become necessary " to
prepare a new book, by copying the contents of
this into it, and then continue from this date. It
is my intention," he adds, " to send this to my
well-beloved friend, the Rev. T. B. Murray. 1 '
Accompanying the book were the following
articles: A desk made by the islanders from
the bread- fruit -tree and miro wood ; a large
sheet of tappa cloth ; a thick pane of glass,
Which was the window of Bligh's cabin in the
Bounty, and afterwards the window of Mr,
Nobbs's house at Pitcairn; and some nails manu-
factured from the copper bolts of the Bounty by
Isaac Martin, one of the mutineers.
The first entry in the manuscript occurs
January 23d, 1790. " H.M.S. Bounty burned.
" Fasto, wife of John Williams, died. Thurs- >
day October Christian born."
| The annals of 1793 are of a melancholy kind/
recounting the massacre of Fletcher Christian,
John Mills, William Brown, John_ Williams, '
260 PUBLIC REGISTER, 17941817.
Isaac Martin; and the death of all the Otaheitan
men, " part by jealousy among themselves, and
others by the remaining Englishmen ! "
In 1794 we read of " a great desire in many
of the women to leave the island;" and of a boat,
built on purpose to remove them, being launched,
and upset. In August, the same year, " a grave
was dug, and the bones of all the white men
that had been murdered were buried." In
November, " a conspiracy of the women to kill
all the white men, when asleep in their beds,
was discovered. They were all seized, a -dis-
closure ensued, and all were pardoned." Nov.
30th, " The women attacked the white men, but
no one was hurt. Once more pardoned, and
threatened the next time with death."
" 1795, May 6th. The first two canoes, for
the purpose of catching fish, were made. Saw
a vessel close in with the island. Mutineers
much alarmed. She stood out to sea, Dec.
27th.
" 1797. Endeavoured to procure a quantity
of meat for salting, and to make syrup from the
ti-plant and sugar-cane.
" 1799. Matthew Quintal, having threatened
to take the lives of Young and Adams, these
two considered their lives in danger, and thought
they were justified in taking away the life of
Quintal, which they did with an axe.
" 1800. Edward Young, a mutineer, died of
asthma.
" 1817. Arrived, ship Sultan, of Boston,
Captain Eeynolds. Jenny, a Tahitian woman,
left here in the Sultan.
PUBLIC REGISTER, 18231831. 261
"1823. Arrived, ship Cyrus, of London,
Captain Hall. John Buffett. came on shore, as
schoolmaster. John Evans also came on shore.
" 1825, Dec. 5th. Arrived, H.M.S. Blossom,
Captain F, W. Beechey.
" 1826, Dec. IQth. Jane Quintal left us in.
the Lovely, of London, Captain Blythe.
" 1828, Nov. 15th. George Nobbs came on'
shore, to reside.
" 1829, March 5th.
JOHN ADAMS died, aged 65.
" 1830, Mar. 15th. Arrived, H.M.S. Bering-
apatam, Captain Hon. W, Waldegrave, with a
present of clothes and agricultural implements
and tools from the British Government.
" 1831,1^.28^. Arrived, H.M. sloop Comet,
Alexander A. Sandilands, and barque Lucy Anne,
of Sydney, Government vessel, J. Currey, master,
for the purpose of removing the inhabitants ot
Pitcairn's Island to Tahiti.
" March 6th. All the inhabitants embarked
and sailed for Tahiti.
" March 21st. Soon after our arrival at Ta-
hiti, the Pitcairn people were taken sick.
" 1831. John Buffett and family, Robert
Young, Joseph Christian, &c. sailed from Tahiti,
in a small schooner; but, owing to contrary
winds, they landed at Lord Hood's Island.
" June 21st. John Buffett, and the others on
Lord Hood's Island, embarked in the French
262 PUBLIC REGISTER, 18381841.
frigate Bordeaux Packet, and on the 27th landed
at Pitcairn's Island. During our absence our
hogs have gone wild, and destroyed our crops.
After we returned, we employed ourselves in
destroying the hogs.
"1838, Nov. 29^. Arrived, H.M.S. Fly,
Captain Russell Elliott, with a present from
Rev. Mr. Rowlandson and congregation at Val-
paraiso. Captain Elliott proposed electing a
chief magistrate, which was adopted; and
Edward Quintal was chosen.
"This island was taken" possession of by
Captain Elliott, on behalf of the Crown of Great
'Britain, on the 29th of November, 1838.
" 1839, Nov. 9tL Arrived, H.M.S. Sparrow-
hawk. Captain J. Shepherd, The captain,
several officers, and General Friere, ex-President
}of Chili, landed. In the afternoon the school-
children were examined, and received the ap-
probation of our respected visitors. Captain
Shepherd afterwards divided some valuable
presents among them,
" 10th. Captain Shepherd and his officers
attended divine service twice. At 5 P.M. they
went on board. They sailed on the 12th.
"1840, Feb. StL Mrs. Nobbs received a
severe contusion on the shoulder, by the falling
of a cocoa-nut from the tree.
"Feb. 13th. Moses Young fell from a cocoa-
nut-tree, at least forty feet high, and was but
slightly injured.
" 1841, A ugust IStL Arrived, H.M.S. Cura-
0a, Captain Jenkin Jones ; and a most oppor-
tune arrival it was, for there were at least twenty
PUBLIC REGISTER, 18411845. 263
cases of influenza among us." The Register
goes on to describe the valuable services ren-
dered by Captain Jones and the surgeon of
the ship, Dr. Gunn. The Curagoa sailed on
the 20th.,
" Sept. 19^. Died, Isabella, a native of Ta-
hiti, relict of Fletcher Christian, of the Bounty.
Her age was not known, but she frequently
said she remembered Captain Cook arriving at
Tahiti. '
" 1843, March 4th. Eleven of the inhabitants
sailed in the barque America, for the purpose of
exploring Elizabeth Island.
" 5th. Arrived, H.M.S. Talbot, Captain Sir
T. Thompson, Bart. After remaining on shore,
and adjusting some of the most pressing judicial
cases presented to him, he went on board, and
sailed for Valparaiso.
" 11th. Barque-^tmenca returned from Eliza-
beth Island, our people bringing a very unfa-
vourable report of it.
" 1844, July 28th. Arrived, H.M.S. Basilisk,
Captain Henry Hunt, bringing presents from
the British Government, Admiral Thomas 3 the
Rev. Mr. Armstrong, &c.
" 1845, Jan. 19th. During the last week we
have been employed in fishing up two of the
Bounty's large guns. For fifty-five years they
have been deposited at the bottom of the sea,
on a bed of coral, guiltless of blood during the
time so many thousands of mankind became, in
Europe, food for cannon. But on Sunday last,
one of the guns resumed its natural vocation
at least the innoxious portion of it to wit.
264 ; _ PUBLIC EEGISTER, 1845.
pouring forth fire and smoke, and causing the
island to reverberate with its bellowing; the
other gun is condemned to silence, having been
spiked by some one in the Bounty.
" 1845, April 16ih" The diary of this date
contains a striking description of a storm, which,
bursting over the island, greatly alarmed the
inhabitants. A considerable portion of the
earth was detached from the side of the hill
situate at the head of a ravine, and carried into
the sea ; about 300 cocoa-nut-trees were torn up
by the roots, and borne along with it ; a yam-,
ground, containing 1,000 yams, totally disap-
peared; several fishing-boats were destroyed,
and large pieces of rock were found blocking up
the harbour in several parts. In the interior, 1
all the plantain patches were levelled, and
about 4,000 plantain trees destroyed, one-half
in full bearing, the other designed for the
year 1846.
" So that," says the annalist, "this^very
valuable article of food we shall be without for
a very long time. The fact is, that from thi^
date until August, we shall be pinched for food.
But God tempers the wind to the shorn lamb;
and we humbly trust that the late monitions of
Providence namely, drought, sickness, and
storm, which severally have afflicted us this
year may be sanctified to us, and be the means
of bringing us, one and all, into a closer com-
munication with our God. May we remember
the rod, and who hath appointed it ! May we
flee to the cross of Christ for safety and succour
in every time of need, always bearing in mind
PUBLIC REGISTER, 1847, 265
that our heavenly Father doth not willingly
afflict the children of men ! "
The details which follow, respecting a serious
accident to the pastor's eldest son, Reuben E.
Nobbs, which resulted in what appears to be
confirmed lameness, are so characteristic of the
kind and brotherly feeling subsisting in the
island, that they must be quoted in full.
" 1847, Feb. 20th. This afternoon, as Reuben
Nobbs was out on the mountains, shooting
goats, his foot slipped, and he let fall his
musket, which exploded and wounded him
severely. The ball entered a little below the
hip-joint, and passing downwards, came through
on the inside of the thigh, about half-way
between the groin and the knee. Providentially,
some persons were within call, who immediately
ran to his assistance, and tore up their shirts to
stanch the blood, which was pouring forth pro-
fusely. A lad was despatched to the village
with the melancholy news ; and in a few
minutes the whole of the inhabitants capable of
going were on their way to afford relief, headed
by his affectionate mother, who was almost
frantic with grief. In about an hour^ they-
returned, bearing him in a canoe, which they
had taken up for that purpose. After some
difficulty the blood was stanched, and the lad
suffered but little pain. Every person ; was
anxious to render assistance ; the greater part
of the male inhabitants remained at night, to be
ready at a moment's warning to do anything
that might be required. Towards midnight he
fell asleep; and so ends this melancholy day.
266 PUBLIC REGISTER, 1847
/, About daylight the wounded lad
awoke, very much refreshed ; he does not com-
plain much, and has but little fever. The men
and grown lads have formed themselves into
three watches, to attend his wants, both day and
night, It is most gratifying to his parents to
see the esteem in which their son is held. ,
22d. Eeuben Nobbs is free from pain, but
there is a considerable accession of fever; it
does not appear that, either the thigh or hip-
bone is injured, as he can move his leg without
much difficulty or pain. From the great length
of the internal wound, it is difficult to ascertain
whether any of the wadding remains where the
ball must have passed through.
"26th. This morning a ship was reported;
everybody appeared rejoiced, hoping to get
some necessaries for their wounded friend. On
nearing the island, she proved to be H.M S. Spy.
Captain Wooldridge. ' Thank God ! ' was the
grateful exclamation of many, on hearing it
was a ship of war, on account of her having a
surgeon on board. At 1 P.M. Captain Wool-
dridge and the surgeon (Dr. Bowden) landed,
who " immediately visited young Nobbs ; and
after probing the wound, and ascertaining the
extent of the injury, gave his opinion that there
was not much danger, and that with proper
attention he would, in all probability, recover,
although a narrower escape from death never
came beneath his notice. Captain Wooldridge,
being much pressed for time, informed the
inhabitants he must sail that evening. After
kindly interesting himself in the welfare of the
PUBLIC REGISTER, 1847 1849. 267
island, and noting down such things as the
community were most in want of, at sunset the
Spy sailed for Valparaiso. Mr. and Mrs. Nobbs
here take the opportunity of publicly recording
their grateful acknowledgments to Captain
Wooldridge and Dr. Bowden for the favours
conferred on their son.
" June 4tk. Experienced a heavy gale from
the westward, which, if it had been of long
duration, would have done incalculable damage.
A large piece of the banyan-tree was blown
down, and the flagstaff broken in two pieces.
" 1848, March 9th. Arrived H. M. S. Calypso,
Captain H. Worth.
"10th.At 9 A.M. Captain Worth, and a
party of officers, landed; and the greeting on
both sides was most cordial. Our people, men,
women, and children, are almost beside them-
selves."
Many valuable and useful presents were
brought to the island. The next day the ship
was discovered four miles from the land. Cap-
tain Worth, Dr. Domet, and others, again
landed. The Doctor, wishing to inspect the
hieroglyphics carved by the aborigines, went
down the face of the cliff without the assistance
of a rope a most hazardous feat. It is stated
that he was the first European who had per-
formed it.
" At sunset the Calypso sailed, carrying with
her our grateful aspirations, &c.
" 1849, July 10th." A very animated de-
scription is given, under this date, of the arrival
of " the Pandora , Captain Wood, from Oahu
268 PUBLIC REGISTER, 1849.
and Tahiti, bringing us Mr. Buffett back, who
left us for the Sandwich Islands last summer.
"July llth. This evening Captain Wood
left us, to our great regret ; for although our ac-
quaintance was of but two days' duration, the
urbanity of Captain Wood, and his solicitude
foi our welfare, have made a .deep and, we hope,
a lasting impression on our hearts. That the
good ship Pandora, and all her gallant crew,
may escape the perils of the deep, and, before
many months have elapsed, show her number
some early day at Spithead, is the wish of their
friends residing on the rock of the West.
"Aug. 9th. The inhabitants are slowly re-
covering from the epidemic which has pervaded
the island during the last month. So general
was the attack, that the public school has been
discontinued, and public service but once per-
formed on each Sabbath, in consequence; the
teacher being fully employed attending the sick.
" llth. Arrived, H.M.S. Daphne, Captain
Fanshawe, from Valparaiso, via Callao, bringing
the desiderata of the community, viz. a bull,
cow, and some rabbits. They were landed
without any difficulty by our own boats. We
also received from the Rev. Mr. Armstrong
several boxes of acceptable articles, and a large
case of books from the Society for Promoting
Christian Knowledge. At 3 P.M. Captain Fan-
shawe and a party of the officers landed. At
' sunset they returned on board again, except the
surgeon, who remained on shore, at the particu-
lar request of Mr. Nobbs, who required some
advice about the sick,
PUBLIC REGISTER, 1849, 2G9
i. at 1 P.M. Captain Fanshawe returned
on shore, with a fresh party of officers, and
attended divine service. Much persuasion was
used by our young people to induce Captain F.
to remain another day, but he told them he
could not do so with propriety. At sunset they
all returned on board, and H.M.S. Dapline sailed
for Tahiti. Captain Ft (as well as his officers)
treated those of our people who went on board
most kindly, and made most minute inquiries
into our wants and actual condition. They were
pleased to express their satisfaction at what they
saw and heard, and left us deeply impressed with
their courtesy and urbanity. May Almighty
'God have them in his holy keeping!-
" Sept. 6th. A large hair seal captured on
the west side of the island. Fletcher Christian
first discovered it among the rocks, and was
much alarmed at the sight of it. He feared to
go near it, lest it should be a ghost (of which
he has a great horror), or some beast of prey,
but quickly ascended the hill which overlooks
the town, and gave the alarm. Some persons
went over to his assistance, and shot the animal
just as it was making its retreat into the sea.
" 20th. This day we set apart as a day of
fasting and prayer. Public service commenced
at 11 A.M. and ended at 1 P.M. All who could
et to church attended. Text, Romans ii. 4, 5.
of the females fainted during service."
" SUMMARY.
" This year is unprecedented in the annals
of Pitcairn's Island. We have been visited by
270 PUBLIC REGISTER, 1849.
two British men-of-war the Pandora, Captain
Wood, and the Daphne, Captain Fanshawe.
The commanders of these ships, and their offi-
cers, treated the inhabitants with the greatest
kindness, and were pleased to express their
entire approval of all they saw and heard. The
Daphne brought us a bull and a cow, and some
rabbits, with a variety of other articles, from the
Rev. Mr. Armstrong and other friends in Val-
paraiso. The cattle and the rabbits produced
a great sensation. Another' (to us) wonderful
occurrence is, the arrival of so many other ships
under English colours, viz. eight from the Aus-
tralian colonies, bound for California, and one
whaling vessel from London ; in all, nine mer-
chantmen, and two ships of war. American
ships have dwindled down to six whalers and
one from California; in her Reuben E. Nobbs
embarked for Valparaiso.
" George Adams saved the life of a child
alongside of a ship in the offing,
" The inhabitants, with scarcely one excep-
tion, have suffered from sickness very severely
during the months of August, September, and
October. The school was discontinued, the
children being too sick to attend, and the teacher
was fully (and, thank God ! efficiently) employed
in ministering from house to house. Some of
the cases were quite alarming, and the disease
(the influenza) in general was more severe, but
considerably modified from that of former years :
violent spasms in the stomach and epigastric
region were frequent in all stages of the com-
plaint. At the close of the year, the inhabitants
PUBLIC REGISTER, 1850. 271
are enjoying much better health. May the
recent affliction teach us so to number our days,
that we may apply our hearts unto wisdom !
" 1850 9 Jan. 23d. This day was observed as
the anniversary of the settlement of this colony,
sixty years since. One survivor of that strange
event and sanguinary result, witnessed its cele-
bration.* At daylight one of the Bounty's guns
was discharged, and awakened the sleeping
echoes, and the more drowsy of its inhabitants.
At 10 A.M. divine service was performed. After
the service, various letters received from the
British Government and principal friends were
read and commented upon. At twelve o'clock
(noon) a number of musketeers assembled under
the flagstaff, and fired a volley in honour of the
day. After dinner, males and females assembled
in front of the church (where the British flag
was flying), and gave three cheers for Queen
Victoria, three for the Government at home,
three for the magistrates here, three for absent
friends, three for the ladies, and three for the
community in general, amid the firing of mus-
kets and ringing of the bell. At sunset the gun
of the Bounty was again fired, and the day closed
in harmony and peace, both towards God and
man. It is voted that an annual celebration be
observed.
"March 24^. Daniel M'Coy and Lydia
Young married.
" April 2QtL Charles Carleton Vieder Young
born.
Susannah, who died on the 15th of July following.
S
272 PUBLIC REGISTER, 1851.
" June 3d. John Pitcairns Elford (native of
Adelaide, New South Wales) baptized.
" 15th. Julia Christian died of dysentery.
" July 15th. Susannah (a native of Tahiti,
and last survivor of the Bounty) died from the
prevailing epidemic and the exhaustion of old
age combined.
" Sept. 18th. Bobert Charles Grant Young
born.
27th. Mrs. Eliza C. Palmer, wife of George
Palmer, of Nan tucket, died of consumption.
28^. Edward Quintal (second) fell from
the precipice upon the rocks below, and badly
fractured his leg.
"Dec. 24th. Charles William Grant born,
son of the master of a whaler, whose wife had
been left on the island.
"1851, Jan. 1st. Thursday 0, Christian
elected chief magistrate ; John Buffett, jun. and
Thomas Buffett, councillors.
" 8th. Mary Anne M'Coy born.
" 21st. Frances Adelaide Quintal born.
" 23d. Observed the anniversary of the
settlement of the colony, David Buffett and
Martha Young married.
" March 15th. By the accidental discharge
of a fowling-piece in a whale-boat that was out
fishing, three persons, viz. Abraham Quintal,
John Buffett, and Fletcher Nobbs, were seri-
ously injured.
" 30th. Anna Bose Christian died, aged
three years.
"April 27th. Mary Isabel Adams born.
" July 13th. Fairfax Moresby Quintal born;
PUBLIC REGISTER, 1851. 273
" August 5th. Joseph A. M. BufFett born.
" 10th. Jacob Christian and Nancy Quintal
married.
" 16th. Twelve of the inhabitants sailed in
the Joseph Meigs for the purpose of visiting
Elizabeth Island. On their arrival at the island,
they discovered a human skeleton ; and as
nothing could be found that may lead to dis-
cover who this unfortunate individual was, it
must remain a mystery.
< Sept. 5th. Thomas A. BufFett born.
' 15th. Julia E. Quintal born.
' Oct. 17th. Leonard E. W. Christian bom.
' 28th. William Ward Dillon Adams born.
' Nov. 5th. Sarah Clara Quintal born.
' 9th. Julia Anna Christian born.
" llth. Thirty-eight of the inhabitants sailed
in the ship Sharon, of Fairhaven, for the purpose
of visiting Elizabeth Island. On Friday, 14th,
after a boisterous passage of three days, they
landed upon Elizabeth Island, when they imme-
diately set about wooding the ship, and exploring
the country, which is evidently of coral forma-
tion. The soil is very scanty, and totally unfit
for cultivation. Various specimens of marine
shells are dispersed all over the surface of the
island, which, in combination with the thickly
scattered pieces of coral, render travelling both
difficult and dangerous. Water is found on the
north-west part of the island, slowly dripping
from the roof of a cave, which cannot be reached
without the aid of ropes. The island rises about
sixty feet above the level of the sea. Eight
human skeletons were also found upon the
274 PUBLIC REGISTER, 1852.
island, lying in caves. They were doubtless
the remains of some unfortunate shipwrecked
seamen, as several pieces oAa wreck were found
upon the shore. %!
" 27th. Sarah Adams died from a disease of
the spine, aged fifty-five years.
" Dec. 13th. Philip M'Coy and Sarah Quintal,
Benjamin Buffett and .Eliza Quintal, married.
" 1852, Jan. 2d. Abraham B. Quintal elected
chief magistrate ; Frederick Young and David
Buffett, councillors.
" 7th. At about 1 p. M. intelligence was
brought to the village that Robert (a native of
one of the Society Islands, and who was left
here sick from the American whale-ship Bal&na)
was washed from off the rocks by the surf;
those who were at hand, when the news was
told, immediately hastened to the place to learn
the truth of the statement. Upon arriving
there, and not seeing anything of him, search
was made along the rocks. This also proving
unsuccessful, some of the men went in their
canoes to search for him outside of the rocks.
A few minutes after the canoes were launched,
his hat was found some thirty or forty yards
from the rocks. Being convinced from this that
the man was drowned, the search was continued
with renewed vigour, and, about an hour after,
his body was seen lying at the bottom, in about
seven fathoms of water, and about twenty yards
from where he was washed off. The men suc-
ceeded in recovering the body, which was in-
terred the same evening. It is but justice to
the memory of this poor man to add, that his
PUBLIC REGISTER, 1852. 275
good and quiet behaviour while among us had
gained for him the esteem and good-will of
all upon the island, and that his untimely
end is deeply regretted by the whole com-
munity.
" 29th. At break of day a ship was reported
close in with the shore ; all who had turned out
of their beds hastened to the edge of the precipice
to ascertain the truth of the statement. Scarcely
had they done so, when, from the heraldic bear-
ing of her colours, she was by the teacher pro-
nounced to be a man-of-war. * The whale-boat
was immediately manned, and in the course of
a few hours she returned to shore, bringing
'with them Captain Wellesley, and others of the
officers of H.M.S. D&dalus, from the Sandwich
Islands, via Tahiti, bound to Valparaiso. Cap-
tain Wellesley and his officers remained on
shore all night, and returned on board the fol-
lowing morning, when a fresh party landed from
the ship. Captain Wellesley and his officers
were pleased to. express their approbation of
what they saw upon the island, and have, by
the urbanity of their conduct during the few
hours they were with us, gained the good-will
and esteem of all the inhabitants.
30^. Emily W. Christian born.
" 31st. At half-past seven this morning,
Captain Wellesley and his officers returned on
board, and the Dcedalus left this for Valparaiso,
bearing the good wishes of the island.
" March 7th. David E. B. Young born.
" 14-th. David R. B. Young died, aged seven
days.
276 PUBLIC REGISTER, 1853. \
" April 15th. Fletcher Christian died, after
a lingering illness of many months' duration,
aged forty years. As a member of the com-
munity, the conduct of Fletcher Christian was
ever worthy of imitation."
After the full account of the visit of Admiral
Moresby to the island in August 1852, it is
not deemed necessary to insert extracts of that
date from the Island Register. . The Adeline
Gibbs, American whaler, Mr. Weeks, Master,
was at Pitcairn during the visit of the Portland.
Mr. and Mrs. Weeks were living ashore. " It
would be a happy circumstance," wrote the
Admiral, " if a person like her could be found to
reside among them." The Register proceeds ;
~ " 1853. Sunday, 15th May. A sail was seen
in the morning coming from the eastward, bearing
down for the island, under a crowd of sail. At
half-past twelve she had iieared the island suffi-
ciently for the boats to go off to her. The vessel
proved to be the Portland, and we had once more
the satisfaction to welcome the dear and gallant
Admiral Moresby, and our Pastor, the Rev.
G. H. Nobbs. She also brought back the
son and daughter of our worthy Pastor, the
former of whom had been absent nearly four
years. We were truly rejoiced to see the dear
and good friends, who have done so much to
promote our comfort and happiness; and we
hope and trust that we may ever deserve their
kindness and regard. Divine service was
performed during the evening. The Rev. Mr.
Holman preached a farewell sermon to the
PUBLIC REGISTER, 1853. 277
community, which deeply affected, and will
long Tbe remembered by, them. Text from
2 Cor. xiii. 11.
"Monday* 16th. The community busily en-
gaged landing the various presents to them from
their untiring friends and benefactors, Admiral
Moresby and others, in Valparaiso and England,
to all of whom we feel truly thankful.
" Tuesday, 17 th. To-day, at 12, the Admiral
assembled the people, and addressed them on
various subjects, principally relating to the in-
ternal regulations of the island.
" Wednesday, 18th. This morning the Ad-
miral avowed his intention to sail in the course
of the day ; and in consequence all was bustle
and preparation,
t; Thursday, 19th. Several of the people were
attacked with influenza.
* ; Friday, 20th. The epidemic rapidly spread-
ing; many very ill. Henry Chads Christian
born.
" Wednesday, 25th. Most of the people
seriously ill, and unable to help themselves.
" Saturday, 28th. Rainy and very thick
weather. About 10 A.M. a ship was reported
in sight to the westward ; 12, the ship seen from
the village, and instantly recognised to be the
Portland. After some hours, a crew of invalids
pulled off to her. The next day, at sun-down,
the good ship Portland left us, we fear, for
ever. That our heavenly Father may ever
preserve her gallant crew from all the dangers
of the sea, and from the assaults of their
spiritual arid temporal enemies, is the prayer
278 PUBLIC REGISTER, 1853.
and earnest wish of the community at Pitcairn's
Island.
" 31st. Elizabeth Holman Adams born.
"June 20th. Thomas Buffett and Louisa
Quintal, and Fletcher Nobbs and Susan Quintal,
married.
" 28th. John Moresby Acland Quintal born.
" Aug. 9th. William Henry Holman Chris-
tian born.
" 13th. Rosalina Amelia Young born.
" October 5th. Ernest Hey wood Christian
born.
" September 19th. Sarah M'Coy had a severe
fall, by which she broke her collar-bone and
fractured her jaw,
" 21st. Sarah M'Coy suffering much pain.
" October 5th. Sarah M'Coy almost quite
recovered.
" 16th. George Henry Parkin Christian born.
" November 2d. About 4 P.M. a sail, which
was immediately pronounced to be a man-of-
war, was seen coming from the eastward. The
whaleboat was immediately manned ; and after
a few minutes' hard rowing, some of the islanders
received a hearty welcome on board H.M.S.
Dido, bringing to the community some more
tokens of the kind regards of their friends
abroad, more especially Rear- Admiral Moresby,
and his benevolent officers.
"Nothing can exceed the kind treatment which
theislanders received from the Captain (Morshead)
and officers of the Dido.
" 4th. Our people are very busily occupied
in the laborious though certainly .delightful,
PUBLIC REGISTER, 1853* 279
operation of landing the presents, arid conveying
them up the steep ascent to the village. Fortu-
nately, the weather has been very fine, so that
the things are landed with comparative ease and
safety ; and our worthy guests are enabled to
avail themselves of a walk over the Island, and
other little amusements in which they may take
an interest. v
" Yesterday, just in the bustle and excitement
of the day, an American whale-ship, which left
us the day before, made her appearance again
round the east point of the Island ; and shortly
after, the captain landed with the melancholy
information that his ship w r as in a sinking state,
occasioned by two of his crew having, the night
before, with an inch-and-a-quarter auger, bored
eight holes through the bottom, hoping to sink
her off the Island ! Nor was it discovered until
fifteen feet deep of water had made its way into
the hold. He had landed to procure assistance ;
and taking into consideration the unfortunate
position he was in, one half of our men went
immediately on board, leaving the others to con-
tinue landing the things from the Dido. After
fourteen hours of hard labour, they, with the
assistance of the crew, succeeded in pumping out
all the water, and in stopping the holes. After
endeavouring in vain to be allowed to leave the
mutinous characters on the Island, he again left
us, to procure redress at some port where there is
an American Consul, and where he might be able
to replenish his stock of provisions and other
stores, as those he had on board are nearly all
ruined, The captain was unable to account for
280 PUBLIC REGISTER, 1853.
the cause of the diabolical attempt to sink the
ship, and endanger the lives of so many human
beings. Still several of the crew have been pre-
viously heard to speak with much discontent of
the treatment they experienced on board, and
of the tyranny of the captain. It is a most pro-
vidential thing for us, that she did not sink. For
having been within eighty miles of this Island,
whoever were saved would naturally have come,
expecting hospitality from us ; arid as there were
twenty-seven persons on board, it would be a
heavy draw upon our at all times circumscribed
means, to have them quartered among us for
perhaps several months, before chances should
occur of removing them. Besides which, it is
impossible to imagine how much mischief might
be occasioned by having among us so many
individuals, who, by all we have learnt of them,
are by no means the best of characters."
The incident here recorded deserves a little
more notice. The circumstances attending the
rescue of the whaler, which have also been
related by Admiral Moresby, serve to throw
additional light on the generous and disinterested
character of the islanders. " They asked no
reward," said the Admiral, "nor did they get
any, beyond the Captain's thanks, that I know
of; for all they mentioned to me was, ' The
Captain thanked us very much.' '
To return to the Register :
" Nov. 4:th. This afternoon the splendid pic-
ture of the Queen and Royal Family was un-
packed The case having been a little wetted on
PUBLIC EEGISTEE, 1853. 281
landing, it was feared that it might have pene-
trated to the picture ; "but fortunately , and to the
inexpressible joy of every one, no wet had got to
it, nor any injury whatever befallen it either here
or on the passage out. It was placed for the time
being in the singing-room ; and it is impossible
to describe the anxious delight, and, it may be
added, grateful loyalty, with which all hastened
to obtain a view of so great a treasure as the
picture and gift of our much-loved Sovereign.
" A very fine portrait of our untiring benefac-
tor, Admiral Moresby, was also brought on shore
to-day by Captain Morshead, and kindly pre-
sented by him to the community. This also
was exhibited; and so good a likeness was it of
our benign and venerated friend, that every
breast was kindled anew with the warmest
emotions of grateful and devoted affection.
" Nov. 5tk. The men have been employed
to-day in landing the remainder of the stores,
including some twenty bags of biscuit and four
barrels of beef which Admiral Moresby, with
his wonted generosity and benevolent solicitude,
ordered to be landed and kept in store for the
benefit of the community, in case of any contin-
gency or scarcity of provisions during the next
six months ; and at 4 P.M. we had the satisfac-
tion of seeing our work completed, that is, every
thing carried up from the landing-place, and
safely deposited under cover. In landing the
things, we have been most successful, insomuch
that nothing was injured, more than the slight
wetting of a few bales, which have been timely
attended to ; any evil consequences which might
282 PUBLIC REGISTER, 1853.
have resulted being thus prevented ; and we
desire to return our grateful thanks to Captain
Morshead, and all on board the Dido, for the
kind manner in which their services were ren-
dered to facilitate the boat operations.
" Nov. 5th. This afternoon, whilst Lucy
Christian, a girl of sixteen years, was occupied
in cooking, her clothes accidentally took fire.
She was instantly enveloped in flames ; and had
it not been for the assistance of two or three
people, who fortunately happened to be within
a short distance, the consequences would have
been most dreadful. As it is, her arms and
back are very much scorched ; but it is hoped
not seriously. The Rev. Mr. Nobbs was almost
immediately in attendance with medical assist-
ance ; and as the surgeons of the Dido were
both on board at the time, one of them was sent
for, who arrived in about an hour and a half,
but found that Mr. Nobbs had done everything
that was necessary, and all that the most skilful
surgeon could have recommended.
" Nov. 6tk, Sunday. Capt. Morshead very
kindly remained to spend the Sunday with us ;
and both at morning and evening service, himself
and a number of his officers attended our humble
church. It being the first Sunday of the month,
the Holy Sacrament was administered, with the ,
usual number of attendants.
" Captain Morshead intends sailing to-morrow,
first to the Gambier Islands to water* and then
to Valparaiso, taking with him two members of
our community, Reuben and Francis, sons of the
Rev. Mr. Nobbs, who go to establish themselves
LETTER FROM REUBEN. 283
in Valparaiso for a few years, the former having
been for nearly four years a resident there. 7 '
The last paragraph in the portion extracted
from the Island Register, records the inten-
tion of the two Pitcairn brothers, Reuben
and Francis Nobbs, to settle in Valparaiso for
a fw years. Mention has already been made
of the elder of the two brothers, and it will have
been seen that, after reaching Valparaiso, where
he was engaged in some mercantile business
at Mr. Miller's, Reuben's health had failed.
Francis was employed in studies such as might
tend to fit him for greater usefulness among
his fellow islanders ; but he was at once called
away from these pursuits, to attend and nurse
his poor brother. Subsequently, Admiral
Moresby received from Reuben a letter, giving
an account of his illness, and breathing a spirit
of entire resignation to the will of his heavenly
Father. The hand which inscribed the follow-
ing lines is now cold and motionless in death ;
but who that reads them will not be cheered and
edified by the tone of faith and hope which
pervades the letter ?
Dr. Ancrum, a physician at Valparaiso, and
Mrs. Ancrum, who are here alluded to, proved
kind and true friends to the two brothers.
To Rear-Admiral Fairfax Moresby, C.B1
\ VALPARAISO; April 14, 1854.
*' DEAR ADMIRAL, Although scarcely able,
through weakness and a troublesome cough, to
284 LETTER FROM REUBEN.
steady myself in an upright posture for a minute
at a time, still, as dear Mrs. Ancrum kindly
offered to enclose for me a few lines to you, if I
can possibly contrive to have them ready, I must
endeavour not to lose so favourable an oppor-
tunity, however little I may be able to say.
" On taking a last farewell of you, and our
other dear friends of the Portland, I little thoi^ht
that the first letter you were to receive from me,
after your arrival in England, was to inform you
of the total dissolution of all my earthly plans
and hopes, shattered as with an arrow from
heaven, and leaving every expectation enter-
tained for myself and Francis scattered to the
winds. Yet I trust I can from my heart say, 'It
is the Lord, let him do what seemeth Him good.'
He will undoubtedly make all things work toge-
ther for our good, and for the glory of His name.
" Very likely Mrs. Ancrum has mentioned
something respecting the circumstances which
brought about the sudden change in our hopes
and expectations. The narrative is very simple. 1
It was on the 31st of last month. Everything
with respect to myself and Francis was going
on much the same as when you left. He was !
still pursuing his studies; and my duties at)
Mr. Miller's were daily growing more respon-J
sible. I had for about two weeks been troubled
with rather a bad cold ; and the morning of the
day above-mentioned being very damp, while
at my work (writing), my cough became some-
what more violent ; when, suddenly, and without
any warning, an immense discharge of blood
from my chest, which nearly choked me ? soon
LETTER FJROM KEUBEN. 285
proved that there was a rupture of some blood-
vessel. The doctor was sent for immediately ;
and after a little while the bleeding was checked.
I was taken home, and matters appeared to be
going on favourably, with the blessing of God,
and the kind attendance of Dr. Ancrum, till
about two o'clock next day, when another fresh
discharge of blood occurred, succeeded in the
course of that day and night by two others, the
last of which left me on the very verge of eternity.
" The next day Dr. Ancrum had me brought
up to the hospital ; but the motion in coming up
caused another abundant flow of blood, so that
when I reached here I was reduced to perfect
helplessness. Since then, however, there has
been no fresh discharge; and with God's blessing,
and the kindness of both Dr. and Mrs. Ancrum,
1 1 am slowly regaining my strength. Dr. An-
crum very kindly allows Francis to come and
stay with me the whole time, and is of opinion
that the climate does not agree with him either,
as he is not so well and strong as on his arrival
here. Dr. Ancrum appears to have consulted
with Mr. Miller and the Kev. Mr. Hill ; and
they have decided that, if it pleases God to
spare me, we must return home as soon as pos-
sible. So they will look out for a vessel bound
for Tahiti or Australia for that purpose.
4" How different it was last year ! This very
day last year, I was getting my things onboard
the Portland, with every imaginable joy, and the
next morning started on our happy trip to dear
Pitcairn. But, dear Admiral, there are no such
pleasant prospects now. We received a few
286 LETTER FROM REUBEN.
short letters from home the other day. They were
dated January 27th, and everything seemed to
be going on favourably. Father, mother, and
the rest of our friends were all well. Please
remember both myself and Francis to all your
kind family, and to Captain Chads ; and with
grateful remembrances of past and continued
favours, believe me, dear Admiral,
" Your obedient and very humble Servant,
" REUBEN E. NOBBS.
" P. S. I have been obliged to let Francis
write the greater part of this."
" April 29, 1854.
" During the last fortnight, or since the
former part of this letter was written, my health
appears to have improved a little; but in my
opinion, very little. I sit up nearly all day in
a rocking-chair, and can walk for a few minutes
at a time about my room or in the corridor.
What a blessing it is to have Francis with me
to attend to my numerous wants! And very
attentive and good has he been ; I do not know
what would have become of me had he not been
here. For the first three weeks, Dr^ Ancrum
would not allow me to say a single word to any
one. Everything was done by signs : and no
one but Francis, and one or two of the servants,
was allowed to enter my room or see me.
" This, dear Admiral, may seem very dreary;
but it is an excellent school for weaning the
affections from things temporal, and fixing
them on those more abiding realities of heaven.
LETTER FROM REUBEN. 287
Whether or not it is the will of God that I shall
ever be permitted to leave this country, so far
our prospects of procuring a passage home are
very gloomy. The golden days when, through
the condescending benevolence of an influential
and untiring friend, a passage by a man-of-war
might be procured, will, I fear, never be again
renewed ! Happy days ! both for myself and
the whole community of, I trust, still grateful
islanders !
" There are several reasons for which I desire
to lose neither time nor opportunity in returning
home. Not merely that I think the voyage, if
at all a pleasant one, with the balmy air of my
native isle, will do much to restore me ; nor the
natural desire to have my bones laid beside those
of my relatives and friends. But one reason is,
I cannot endure the thought of what Francis
will suffer, if I am taken away, before he will
be able to reach home in safety. Another reason
is, the effect which I know the report of my
having died in a foreign land will have upon
the tender and too anxious feelings of my poor,
dear mother. Still must I fervently say, ' Thy
will, O Lord, be done ! Thou knowest best
what to ordain concerning me ! '
" Should it please the Lord to restore me to
my home, and even to a comparatively sound
state of health, I shall endeavour, by His help
and blessing, to improve the little talent en-
trusted to my care, in assisting to further the
intellectual, and in some respects the moral,
improvement of my people. With many and
T
288 HIS RETURN TO PITCAIRN.
earnest prayers for the blessing of God upon
our kind benefactor,
" I remain, &c.'' j
'"".yV.
It pleased God to restore Reuben to the home
and family-circle which he so much longed to
see again. The brothers were at length enabled
to leave Valparaiso ; and they reached Otaheite
in safety : but they were detained there two
months. They afterwards happily met with
a vessel which conveyed them to Pitcairn.
Admiral Moresby, writing to the author from
Exmouth, said :
" I have received a few lines from our friend
Mr. Nobbs, dated Pitcairn's Island, 14th De-
cember, 1854, on the arrival of Reuben and
JFrancis. Reuben, he says, is very sick, and
cannot, humanly speaking, hold out much
longer. It is pleasing to know that Reuben has
been granted his earnest wish. His pure spirit
will no doubt go aloft; and his remains will
rest in his native island.' 7 .
Before this letter was written Reuben had
breathed his last. His remains now rest in his
native island.
Francis, who has been trained in the same
good ways with his brother, was, according to
the last report from Norfolk Island, employed
as an instructor in the school.
CHAPTEE XL
EXAMPLE OP REUBEN NOBBS SHADOWS OF COMING EVENTS
B. TOUP NICOLAS, ESQ., CONSUL AT RAIATEA HIS JOURNAL
OF A WEEK AT PITCAIRN IN 1853 LETTERS FROM THE REV.
G. H. NOBBS LETTER FROM MRS. NOBBS CAPTAIN DENHAM'S
SURVEY OF NORFOLK ISLAND CAPTAIN FREMANTLE'S VISIT
TO PITCAIRN HURRICANE ON THE PACIFIC EXPECTATIONS
OF A REMOVAL TO NORFOLK ISLAND.
SOME particulars of Reuben's last hours, as he
sunk TO rest, in the presence of his father and
mother, in humble reliance on his Saviour,
have been drawn by the pen of a loving parent,
and will appear in the progress of our work.
These will serve further to illustrate the cha-
racter of one whose industry, integrity, and
piety were conspicuous, and whose example, it
may reasonably be hoped, will be useful to the
rising generation. Reuben's life, short as it
was, and unmarked by any brilliant features,
forms one of the cluster of good fruits which
have, under God, given toPitcairn the lovely
and honourable name which it has acquired.
In addition to the pressure of domestic afflic-
tion, which weighed heavily upon the pastor's
mind at this time, he had to contend with diffi-
culties of no ordinary nature. The project for
a removal to Norfolk Island was now ripening ;
and he who had educated so many members of
the community, and had held such various offices
amongst them, was naturally looked up to for
T2
290 SHADOWS OF COMING EVENTS.
advice and counsel. The bias of his judgment
had, from the first, been in favour of a transfer
to a more roomy spot. Baron de Thierry,*
and others personally acquainted with Pitcairn,
had represented to him, in vivid colours, the
calamities which appeared too surely to impend
over the island, with an increasing popula-
tion, a diminishing quantity of food, and a
precarious supply of indifferent water, which
another landslip might cut off altogether.
What a helpless position, humanly speaking,
with nothing to attract shipping out of its usual
course, no trade, no harbour, no means of repair,
nothing but exposure and danger! Still the
plan of a removal from home, a place to which
the people were so fondly attached, the pastor
knew to be one fraught with peril and trouble.
He deemed, indeed, that the evil would, if let
alone, become, like any other disease, mis-
chievous by delay and neglect ; but, as a wise
and skilful adviser, he declined pressing upon
any one an operation which could not be con-
templated without pain.
Signs and shadows of coming events had
then appeared. The notes of the singing-
birds were no longer heard. " The birds,"
said he "have forsaken us. 77 All the families
were then, in fact, about to take their leave
of a spot full of deep interest to them, for a
new, strange, and distant place of residence.
Of Norfolk Island, and its present inhabitants,
the author will have more to say presently, but he
* In a letter dated Honolulu, Sandwich Islands, June 15, 1852.
B. TOUP NICOLAS, ESQ. 291
will first communicate some further intelligence
in connexion with their late position at Pitcairn.
Mention has been made of the kind offices of
B. Toup Nicolas, Esq., British Consul at Baia-
tea, towards the community, whom he visited
in the year 1853.
Mr. Nicolas having forwarded an extract from
his diary to the author, it is here presented to
the reader as one of the most agreeable and
animated of the sketches of life in Pitcairn.
MR. B. TOUP NICOLAS'S WEEK AT PITCAIRN.
At daylight, on the morning of Monday,
the 24th of January, 1853, Pitcairn's Island
was in sight from the mast-head of H.M. S.
Virago, apparently about 45 miles off. As it
peeped above the horizon, it recalled the top of
St. Pad's Cathedral.
We reached the anchorage in Bounty Bay
at half-past two, under steam ; and, being the
first steamer which had ever visited the island,
we made up our minds to astonish the natives,
with the unusual display of a ship going through
the water at the rate of some six knots an hour
in a dead calm. But they knew the dread mon-
ster at once to be a steamer, and, although much
delighted, were not equally surprised at her per-
formances. A boat came off with Mr. Holman,
the chaplain of the Portland, who had been left
to fill the place of Mr. Nobbs, during the time
the latter should be in England, where he had
gone for the purpose of being ordained. They
supposed that we had brought Mr. Nobbs back;
292 A WEEK AT P1TCAIRN.
and his wife and daughter were also in the
boat to welcome him. They, of course, were
disappointed ; but, glad as the Islanders would
undoubtedly have been to receive Mr. Nobbs,
they would, 1 believe, have been little less sorry
to lose Mr. Holman. We landed (the Virago
saluting me with seven guns) without much
trouble, in Captain Prevost's whale-boat, steered
by one of the natives, and experienced a hearty
and truly English welcome ; all of them shaking
us warmly by the hand, and telling us how truly
glad they were to see us ; professions which
their after-kindness fully confirmed.
From the landing-place we scaled a kind of
zigzag goat path for about two hundred yards,
which brought us to the " market-place." But
instead of buildings, benches, butchers' shops,
and all that constitutes an English market-
place, one must fancy a floor of shrubs, and a
roof of cocoa-nut trees ; a small space of a few
yards being cleared away: and on this the
different families bring their stock for sale,
when any merchant-vessels call at the island
for provisions. Here were assembled all those
who were either too old or too young to reach
the landing-place, and who renewed the expres-
sions of good-will made to us by their relations
below. We then walked towards their village,
or rather the succession of detached houses,
each on its own little terrace, embowered in
orange and cocoa-nut trees ; and, as it was
nearly tea-time, we were billeted, generally two
in a house. My friend Hassan, the Turkish
lieutenant, and myself, were quartered on John
A WEEK AT PITCAIRN. 293
Adams, with whom Mr. Holman lives. In the
evening, it being a beautiful moonlight night,
we all met in front of the house where the
organ is kept. The Islanders then sang several
hymns and touching melodies, one of which,
from its simple pathos, and from the exquisite
manner in which it was sung, to the tune of
" Long, long ago," I believe I shall never forget.
THE SAILOR-BOY'S EARLY GRAVE.
Shed not a tear o'er your friend's early bier,
When I am gone, when I am gone ;
Nor, if the slow-tolling bell you should hear,
When I am gone, when I am gone.
Weep not for me when you stand round my grave,
Think Who has died, His beloved to save ;
Think of the crown all the ransom'd ghall have,
When I am gone, when I am gone.
Plant ye a tree, which may wave over me,
When I am gone, when I am gone.
Sing ye a song, if my grave you should see,
When I am gone, when I am gone.
Come at the close of a bright summer's day
Come when the sun sheds his last ling'ring ray ;
Come, and rejoice that I thus pass'd away,
When I am gone, when I am gone.
Plant ye a rose that may bloom o'er my bed,
When I am gone, when I am gone ;
Breathe not a sigh for the bless'd early dead,
When I am gone, when I am gone.
Praise ye the Lord, that I'm free from all care,
Love ye the Lord, that my bliss ye may share ;
Look ye on high, and believe I am there,
When I am gone, when I am gone.
The voices of the Islanders are both powerful
and sweet ; and the thrill of rare and unexpected
pleasure I experienced on hearing them sing
the above song, was never surpassed, not even
294 A WEEK AT PITCAIRN.
when listening to Jenny Lind. This may seem
going too far ; and so may many other of the
statements I make in speaking of the Pitcairn
Islanders. I came prepared to do them justice,
it is true ; but no more, for I could not help
believing that there must be some exaggeration
in the florid accounts given by voyagers who
had touched at their islan.d. I came, therefore,
with a mind disposed to test and to criticise ;
and I leave them with the feeling that few, if
any, of their qualities would not stand the
severest test ; and that their conduct generally,
"that is, on all main points, may triumphantly
challenge the severest criticism. This is my
deliberate opinion, after having been domesti-
cated among them for a week, and with every
'opportunity given me for arriving at a just con-
clusion ; going in and out of the houses at any
hour I chose, and asking any questions I thought
proper; seeing them, too, in their joy, and after-
wards in their affliction.
Captain Prevost having 'offered to take
all the inhabitants round the island in the
Virago, under steam, on the following day
(Tuesday), the offer was joyfully accepted ; and
at about ten o'clock the next morning our own
boats and their whale-boat brought successive
cargoes of men, women, and children on board,
until only six people were left on the island.
We then got under weigh, and slowly steamed
from point to point, and in about an hour again
anchored in Bounty Bay, where, after having
had some cake and wine, the Islanders were
safely landed. The engine-room afforded con-
A WEEK AT PTTCATRN. 295
slant interest to those who were not sea-sick;
but, unfortunately, most of the women and
children were very much so. We landed in
the afternoon ; and in the evening the Islanders
again sang the songs we were never tired of hear-
ing; and we amused them by dancing among
ourselves, and playing at leap-frog, blind-man's
buff, &c., at which they laughed heartily.
The next day, Wednesday, having planted
the roses, fig-trees, &c., we felt it was time to
hasten on our way, and accordingly wished our
friends good-bye, except the few who accom-
panied us on board, intending to return in their
whale-boat.
At about half-past one the capstan was
manned, and we were about to get under weigh,
when our attention was arrested by the firing of
the Bounty s gun, in farewell salute.
Scarcely had the sound died away, when it
was succeeded by what we at first took to be
cheers ; but which, alas ! proved to be shrieks
from the women and children along the cliffs.
A boat was instantly manned and sent on shore ?
with the two surgeons.
By the help of the glass, we could see the
women carrying two forms along the cliffs to-
wards the houses, by which we feared that
some fatal accident had occurred.
In a short time a canoe came from the shore,
with the melancholy tidings, that in loading the
gun, the chief magistrate, Matthew M'Coy, and
two others, Driver Christian, and William
Evans, were seriously, if not fatally injured.
On reaching the village, we found that poor
296 A WEEK AT PITCAIRN.
M'Coy, who had suffered the most severely, had
had his arm amputated above the elbow, it hav-
ing been perfectly shattered. The arm was going
on well, but the surgeons gave very little nope,
owing to the shock the system had received;
his breathing was very difficult ; and, altogether,
we could not help feeling that his hours were
numbered. Poor M'Coy ! He had pleaded very
hard that they would not take off his arm ; as,
without it, he said he should be of very little
use to his wife and his eight children. They
told him it was his only chance of life, when he
submitted to the amputation with unflinching
nerve. It was a necessary, but, as the issue
proved, a useless infliction ; he remained in
the same state, hovering between life and death,
until about two o'clock the next morning, when
he died.
The two others were severely wounded and
burnt, but not dangerously ; and every hope is
entertained of their recovery.
- Thursday. This dreadful accident has over-
whelmed the little community with grief; there
is nothing but weeping; they are truly one
family, bound together in heart as they are by
the ties of relationship.
At sunset we, that is, the officers and petty offi-
cers of the Virago, and the Islanders, assembled
outside the house where the body of poor M'Coy
lay. His widow had begged to be allowed to
take a last look of what was her husband ; the
surgeons feared what the effect might be, as she
was near her confinement ; but she pleaded so
piteously, that, at last, they had not the heart to
A WEEK AT FITCAIRN. 297
refuse. "She accordingly came, accompanied by
her children ; and touching, indeed, was the
scene that followed. She seemed calmer and
more resigned after having seen her poor hus-
band; and when I wished her good-bye, on
leaving yesterday morning, she appeared better
able to bear the affliction with which the
Almighty had thought fit to visit her.
All in the Virago gave her their best sym-
pathy, and made a subscription for herself and
the poor children, amounting to nearly thirty
pounds, which will, we hope, in a slight degree,
tend to lighten her burden.
Few scenes have made a stronger impression
upon my mind than the funeral of poor M'Coy,
deeply impressive from the earnestness of those
engaged in the ceremony, and from the absence
of that form and luxury with which civilisation
too often loves to bury its dead.
The grave was dug in a little garden con-
secrated by the ashes of the father and the
brother of Matthew M'Coy, beside whose re-
mains his own were about to be laid.
The Burial Service was impressively read
by the Rev. W. Holm an, after which a hymn
jwas' sung or attempted to be sung for the
accents of the poor Islanders were stifled by
sobs ; and amidst these sobs the body was low-
ered into the grave.
It was a beautiful sunset; the tall, plume-
like cocoa-nut- trees waved gently above our
heads. Borne upwards from the sea, mournfully,
but not discordantly, came the sound of the
breakers as they burst against the shore ; while
298 A WEEK AT PITCAIRN.
from orange and from lime, and from a thou-
sand fragrant herbs, delicious scents filled the air.
Quietly and thoughtfully we retired from the
spot, and gradually found our way off to the
ship, to prevent giving the poor afflicted Island-
ers more trouble than we could help.
Friday. Christian and Evans going on well.
Went with Captain Prevost; and, with the
concurrent wish of the Islanders, spiked the
Bounty s gun, to prevent a recurrence of the late
dreadful accident, which seems to have been
ca.used by using a rammer made from the rafter
of a house, these rafters having a nail at each
end. The gun was so honeycombed, that it
could not be fired without danger of its bursting.
Saturday. Christian and Evans progressing
as favourably as could be expected. Made every
preparation for leaving, when it came on to blow,
and the Virago stood off to sea.
Finding there was no chance of getting
away to-day, I accompanied the rear-guard of
goat-hunters to the mountains, armed with a
clumsy-looking, but, I believe, true German
rifle, lent me by George Adams, whose maker,
boasting a name of some seven syllables, could
little have anticipated that his handiwork would
call forth echoes from the picturesque crags of
an island in the South Pacific.
Returned to the settlement r dead-beaten, with
a very vivid recollection of the awfulness of the
precipices, and of the wariness and activity of
the goats.
Sunday. This morning Captain Prevost,
Koss, the assistant-surgeon, Nihill, a passenger,
A WEEK AT PITCAIRN. 299
and myself, the only ones left on shore, went to
church, and were much struck with the attention
paid to the service by the Islanders ; several
hymns and psalms were sung in their usual
correct and devout manner. They repeat the
responses very slowly and distinctly; so much
so, indeed, as to make it difficult for us to ac-
company them.
Captain Prevost partook of the Sacrament of
the Lord's Supper, as did most of the adult Island-
ers. In the afternoon we again attended church.
Monday morning. The weather having mo-
derated, the Virago stood in, and sent a boat
on shore ; so we prepared for a final leave-
taking, the two wounded men going on very
well, and pronounced by the surgeons to be out
of danger.
As soon as the Islanders found that we really
must go, they set about collecting a quantity of
ripe fruit, which they insisted upon our taking,
although they distressed themselves by this
generosity.
The old people accompanied us as far as the
" Market-place," where we bade each other an
affectionate adieu. To the beach we descended
with the remainder of our friends ; and I do not
remember ever to have seen so much mingled
kissing and crying.
The affectionate natures of the Islanders
cause them soon to attach themselves to those
who show them even a trifling kindness, and our
visit had been attended with peculiar circum-
stances, unfortunately, but too well calculated to
touch the susceptible feelings of this warm-
300 A WEEK AT PITCAIRN,
hearted race. Poor M' Coy's death had called
forth our sympathy ; the strong tie of a mutual
sorrow caused their tears to mingle with our
farewell regrets. vs^ -,*
The Pitcairn Islanders are undoubtedly a fine
race ; the figures of the men being, however,
better than those of the women, which betray
their Tahitian origin. The expression of the
face in both sexes is generally good, often singu-
larly noble and intellectual ; their skin is dark,
darker than I had expected, although ex-
ceptions occur, particularly in children, when it
is sometimes nearly white ; their eyes are large
and lustrous, and their teeth beautiful.
; The week spent at Pitcairn's Island will be
looked upon by me as one of the most interesting
of my life. A state of society is there beheld
which cannot be believed unless seen.
^ In many points, particularly in the culture of
their minds, a high state of civilisation presents
itself, without vice or luxury, the community
living in the most primitive simplicity. But
the most remarkable feature in their character is
that of earnest and universal piety. And from
this fountain springs their brotherly love, so
true, so touching, so unlike anything I had ever
seen or dreamed of, as animating a whole com-
munity, that it can only be likened to the feeling
that exists in a deeply religious and united
private family in England.
6 So earnest is their piety, so directly does it
appear to spring from Him who is the Divine
Source of all religion, that I almost fancied
myself in a Theocracy of the primitive ages. /
LETTERS FEOM THE REV, G. H. NOBBS. 301
If I am asked, Hare they no faults ? I an-
swer, Yes, two, to show that they are children
^of Adam.
< The first is, that the men seemed to allow the
'women to work harder than themselves. The
second, that there is a want of energy apparent
in all they do, always excepting religious
matters.
In these I have summed up all I know to
their disadvantage. How proud may England
be, that it is to her this virtuous and most inte-
resting community look as to their fatherland !
May HE who so marvellously raised such
fruit from such seed still watch over and protect
them ! B. T. N
In this friendly wish and prayer for the wel-
fare of the community, the reader will heartily
join.
The following communications will bring down
the history to the period at which the removal
from Pitcairn had been determined on.
, The Rev. G. H. Nobbs, in a letter to the
author, dated June 29th, 1855, said :
"I sit down to write you a letter: but when
an opportunity may occur for sending it, is
beyond any calculation of mine ; it has become
so rare for a vessel of any kind to visit us.
Whale-ships do not come, because they rarely
can obtain such an amount of vegetable refresh-
ment as they require ; and merchant-ships have
nothing to induce them in the way of commerce.
A ship-of-war will, no doubt, occasionally pay
us a flying visit of twenty-four hours ; but those
302 LETTERS FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS.
much desired gala days must necessarily be few,
and very far between ; especially if war continues
the order of the day. I do not make these re-
marks from a querulous or discontented state of
mind : but I do so in order that you, my most
patient and untiring friend, may not suppose
that negligence or carelessness is the cause of my
writing so seldom.
"And now I have to record a dispensation it
has pleased Almighty God to visit on myself
and family. I do not call it an afflictive dispen-
sation ; for although in the bereavement many
of my earthly anticipations were prostrated, still -
I am most graciously permitted to sing of mercy
and judgment
"Last December my two sons, Reuben and
Francis, who had gone to Valparaiso in the
Dido, returned hither ; the eldest, Reuben, far
gone in pulmonary consumption ; and the other
lad betrayed incipient indications of the same
disease. Their many friends in Valparaiso ad-
vised their return, as the only means (humanly
speaking) of restoring Francis to health, and
arresting, for a short time, the fatal malady
which was rapidly bearing poor Reuben to the
grave. They accordingly left Valparaiso in a
French ship bound to Tahiti, and remained there
two months without being able to obtain a pas-
sage home : but they were efficiently cared for
by some good Samaritans residing there; still
Reuben kept declining, and fears were enter-
tained that he would never see Pitcairn's again.
At length, when all hopes began to give way,
an opportunity unexpectedly offered. An Ame-
LETTERS FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS. 303
rican ship from California, ostensibly bound
on a pleasure trip, arrived at Tahiti ; when the
owner of the vessel, in conjunction with the
gentleman who professed to have chartered her,
on hearing of the situation and desires of my
children, promptly offered to convey them hither.
They were accordingly received on board, and,
after a lengthened passage of twenty-two days,
arrived here. During the passage they were
treated with the greatest kindness and sympathy
by these gentlemen, and several other passengers,
among whom was a lady, the wife of the princi-
pal personage on board ; and she, too, was most
indefatigable in her motherly attentions to my
"poor boy. Before they left us (after a sojourn of
two days) they sent on shore from their cabin-
stores a very large quantity of such things as
would be serviceable to Reuben, and moreover
refused payment in any shape for the passage but
the thanks of gratitude ; and these were most
heartily accorded them by the whole community,
" My poor boy sunk rapidly after his return*
I saw from the first there was no probability of
his recovery ; but this stroke of domestic afflic-
tion was mercifully divested of much of its
severity on finding that he was perfectly aware
of his situation, and not only resigned to it, but
anxiously desirous to depart, and enter into the
joy of his Lord. Sometimes his dear mother,
flattered by the specious appearance of his
insidious disease, would hint at the possibility
of his being yet spared to us. But with a
gentle shake of the head he would reply, ' No,
dear mother, I feel I am rapidly approaching the
u
304 LETTERS FEOM THE RET. G. H. NOBBS.
grave ; humanly speaking, my recovery is im-
possible ; and that my dear father knows as well
as I do ; and if it is not improper to entertain
such a wish, I would rather not return to health
again. My earnest desire and prayer is to
depart and be with Christ, which is far better.'
Such was the tenor of his discourse during the
short time he was spared us ; and he died ' strong
In faith, giving glory to God.' An hour before
Ms death he w r as seized with a violent spa$m,
which we thought would have carried him off;
but he rallied again. Seeing his mother weep-
ing, he said, * Do not weep, .mother ; one more
such stroke, and T shall be in the arms of my
Saviour.' Shortly after, he had another attack,
and nothing remained but his attenuated form.
The happy spirit had returned to join the glori-
fied throng. He died on Friday afternoon,
March 2d, at six o'clock. The Sunday before
his death I administered to him the Holy
Eucharist. There were eight of us present ; and
it was a time of refreshing : so awfully sublime
did it appear to us all, that we felt as if we were
indeed where Jacob felt himself to be, on his
awakening at Luz. Most grateful did I feel that
I was invested with full authority to dispense
this most precious rite; that I could stand by
the bed of my dying child, and offer him the
symbols of a dying Saviour's love, and declare
the remission of sins through faith in His all-
sufficient atonement. I repeat, I felt most
' grateful to those who, under God were, instru-
mental in conferring upon me clerical ordination ;
and I am sure a full share of that gratitude was
LETTERS FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS. 305
reflected towards yourself, my well beloved and
respected friend.
" The remains of my beloved child are depo-
sited with their kindred dust, the first-fruits of a
family of eleven children. And should it please
my heavenly Father to call the survivors from
time into eternity, and they were graciously per-
mitted to witness as good a confession as their
departed brother did, I humbly believe I could
bow with submission to the righteous mandate,
and say, c It is well.'
" To that phase of the consistent professor's
life, ' the chamber where the good man meets
his fate, I can revert with unmingled satisfac-
tion. It has been my privilege to attend the bed
of sickness among this community for twenty-
seven years, and I have frequently had the
unspeakable happiness to listen to the testimony
of the dying believer ; to see death so robbed of
its sting, that the soul, before quitting its frail
tenement, seemed invested with an antepast of
heaven. Such manifestations can by no means
be construed into mental hallucinations, or trans-
ient feelings of excited gratitude. For not to
recur to the happy state of mind in which many
of our immortals have entered the ' dark valley,'
here (I refer to my deceased child) was a young
man prostrated in the prime of his days, and for
many weeks standing on the brink of eternity,
with a full and solemn view of his state deeply
impressed on his mind, both from his own feelings
and the conversation of his sorrowing but happy
friends : yet he could, amidst the ravages
and exhaustion of pulmonary consumption, so
u2
306 LETTERS FROM THE REV. G, H. NOBBSr
entirely resign himself to the providential dis-
pensations of his heavenly Father, as to make the
exemplary words of his suffering and acquiescent
Saviour the frequent and earnest theme of his
aspirations, ' Not my will, but Thine be done. 7
Were not these sweet words for an earthly parent
to listen to ? I found them unspeakably so.
Such unwavering confidence, with eternity in
view, strengthens me amidst this temporal be-
reavement to exclaim, ' Bless the Lord, O my
soul; and all that is within me bless his holy
name. 7
" Three weeks after the demise of my son,
death made another inroad among us. A little
boy, ten years of age, son of my wife's sister,
Maria Quintal, pierced his foot with a barbed
arrow (used for taking fish from the holes
of the rocks) , which induced tetanus ; and in
forty-eight hours after the terrible disease had
commenced, his happy spirit fled to the realms
of bliss. During the intervals of the violent
spasmodic constrictions of the suffering bodyv^ 6
dear child would speak of his blessed Saviour^
and ask Him to take him to be with those whom
He took in his arms when on earth. The
patient sufferer was aware that he could not
recover : still he never expressed the least fear
of death. At the time of his departure, I was
praying with him, his parents and several other
persons kneeling around his bed, when he gave
a slight shudder, and exclaimed in a clear and
audible voice, Lord Jesus, receive my spirit ! '
And then went to see Him as He is.
" But one fortnight had elapsed from this
LETTERS FROM THE RET. G. H. NOBBS. 307
period, when another sad and awful bereavement
fell upon the community. Daniel M'Coy and
his wife went to the north -west side of the island
in quest of fish. After descending to the rocks,
Daniel left his wife, and re-ascended, with the
intention of passing the head of a small inlet of
the sea, and then going down to the rocks on
the other side. While doing so, he fell ; and his
wife saw him fall- but there was the before-
mentioned inlet between them, into which a
very heavy surf was running; to avoid which
Daniel had gone round the head of the bight ;
and it was in the act of descending to the shore,
on the other side, that he fell. His wife without
hesitation plunged into the heavy surf (which
she had unfortunately persuaded her husband to
avoid), and, landing on the opposite side of the
inlet, found him on the rugged lava of the shore,
a corpse ! She had the presence of mind, pre-
vious to her braving the foam-crested billows,
to call a lad at some distance fishing, and
despatch him to the village with the sad tidings
that Daniel had fallen ; but she did not then
know the extent of his hurt. Less than half an
hour previous, he had left her with a smile on 1
his countenance, for Daniel was always in a
cheerful mood. What must have been the poor
creature's agony as she sat by her dead husband, 1
with his head resting in her lap, for more than
an hour ere any one could get to her assistance!
Her feelings I will not attempt to describe ; but
I will tell you what she did. On finding life
extinct, she knelt down, and prayed that God
would give her grace so to live that she might
308 LETTERS FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS.
rejoin her dear Daniel in heaven. ' For I am
sure,' said she, when speaking to me on the sub-
ject, 'that he was prepared for death; and that
takes away the pain of my great loss.'
" I was in bed at the time of the accident,
suffering from bronchitis, when a long low wail
reached my ear, accompanied by exclamations
of grief. Jumping from my bed, I ran out of
doors, forgetting that I was or had been sick ;
and, on inquiring what was the matter, learned
that Daniel M'Coy was badly hurt, if not killed,
by falling from the precipice. Most of the men
were out in their canoes fishing, it being Satur-
day ; the two or three that were at home has-
tened to the spot, and several of the women
followed, among whom was my wife. Now, as
they would have to go the same route by which
the deceased fell, I was in great fear lest a
similar accident might befall -Mrs. Nobbs ; and
a heavy load was removed when I saw her
return in safety. She had not got so far as the
dangerous part of the road, when she met one
of the men returning, who informed her that
poor Daniel was dead. A canoe was sent to
summon home the fishermen; and the whale-
boat was 'manned, and taken to the spot where
the corpse lay ; when with some difficulty and
danger, on account of the heavy surf, it was put
into the boat and brought round to Bounty Bay;
then transferred to a canoe for a bier, and borne
on men's shoulders to the village. I had been
busy preparing bandages, and such other things
as might be necessary, and placed them in the
house to which I supposed he would be brought;
LETTERS FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS. 309
but the sad tidings of his death rendered all my
intentions useless. However, busying myself
about these things kept me in a great measure
from the painful impressions induced by sus-
pense, and fretting myself about the safety of
my dear wife. But a chapter from the Bible,
and a few words of prayer, I found to be the
panacea. At length the women returned ; and
my wife and eldest daughter (who, though I did'
not know it, had gone) with them ; and I was
truly thankful.
" A messenger now came from Bounty Bay,
summoning me thither; as the sister and brother
of the deceased were both attacked with spas-
modic fits. Taking some remedies, I started,
but met them on their way home. Poor Lydia
M'Coy came home in the whale-boat with the
corpse. On examining the injuries, I found the
spine broken at the bend of the shoulders, and
the occiput badly fractured ; but there were no
other bones broken that I could ascertain.
" Such, and so sudden, was the death of Daniel
M'Coy ; a young man beloved by all the com-
munity, and most deservedly so. He is the
third of the family who has met an untimely
end within a very lew years. William M'Coy
died from lock-jaw, occasioned by a splinter of
wood running* into the upper part of his foot;
Matthew M'Goy, from wounds received by the
accidental explosion of the Bounty s gun. ; and
now the third brother, Daniel, by falling from
a precipice on the north-western side of the
island. May the God of the widow support
poor Lydia under the awful calamity! She has
310 LETTERS FKOM THE KEY. G. H. NOBBg.
no- children to rest her affections upon, but she
has a mother, and brothers, and sisters, and she
has the sympathy of the whole community. On
Him, who, above all others, well deserves the
name of Friend, may she place her unwavering
trust: to Him let her flee as a very present
Help in time of trouble ; and all will be well,
both for time and eternity.
" There have been three other deaths since
the above accident : one was a premature birth,
the child surviving but a few hours ; the other
two were infants under twelve months. The
number of deaths on the island this year has been
six; a larger amount than has occurred in any
one year since our unfortunate visit to Tahiti. Up
to the present date the deaths exceed the births.
" We are most grateful that so large a sum as
500/. sterling has been secured for our future
benefit. I do not think there will be a necessity
for drawing any portion of it for the next two
years, if we should remain here so long. If
there should be a removal to Norfolk Island,
that may alter the case. The next time you
favour me with a letter, I want your opinion as
to what I ought to do, if some families remain
here, in preference to removing to Norfolk
Island, whenever an opportunity is offered them.
I have no choice on the subject. I have men-
tioned it to my Diocesan, the Lord Bishop of
London, in my former letter ; but I should like
to have your advice also. I think it probable
some families will remain, and I have no ob-
jection to remain with them ; but I hold myself
in readiness to go if desired to do so.
LETTERS FROM THE KEY. G. H. NOBBS. 311
u In all the vicissitudes through which I have
passed,- whether on the Galapagos Islands,
almost perishing from thirst, or labouring in
chains among malefactors of the deepest dye, on
the batteries of Callao ; or waiting, with some
anxiety, my turn to be the subject of a fusillade,
for the amusement of Benevideis in Arauco, I
have never regretted, nor desired to abandon, the
course prescribed. And now, having been in-
voluntarily drawn from my retirement, invested
with sacerdotal authority, and placed, as it were,
on a pedestal, I shall endeavour, by Divine aid,
to lead this unique community, step by step, to
that 'rest which remaineth for the people of
God.' And may you, my friend, be spared
many years to chronicle the result."
Accounts of the war with Russia, and the
agitating scenes which ensued, had reached the
quiet islanders, and had formed a theme of serious
interest in their despatches. The startling and
solemn event by which, under divine Provi-
dence, the Crimean conflict was stayed, is glanced
at in the following postscript :
4 " P.S. September 14, 1855. I have just five
minutes to say that we are all well, and that
1 forward this by a whale-ship going to Juan
Fernand^:.* I have no chance to send your desk.
But the first ship-of-war that comes will take it.
"We learn from this ship the death of the
Czar ! But there is not a newspaper on board,
so we are still in the dark."
* For a view of this island, see p. 324.
312 LETTERS FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS.
In another ' letter, dated Pitcairn's Island,
July 19, 1855, Mr. Nobbs said :
"I will briefly detail my avocations on the
island. Divine Service twice on the Sabbath,
and a Sunday-school for five classes (sixty per-
sons) afterwards. The teachers are Jemima
Young, Mary Young, Jane Nobbs, Francis
Nobbs, and myself. There is also public service
every afternoon at four o'clock, with the ex-
ception of Saturday, on which day the men are
generally out in their canoes fishing, and the
women busy in preparing food for the Sabbath.
" The Holy Communion is administered on
the first Sunday of each month. The total
number of communicants is 78. At the age of
sixteen, after due preparation, they are admitted
to the Lord's Table. Our day-school is from
eight in the morning till one, five days in the
week. There are 55 scholars. Edward Quintal
is the schoolmaster.* I attend every day from
ten until the dismissal. These duties, with the
care of the sick, keep me in constant employ ;
and, I am happy to say, beneficially so. The
young man who keeps the school being incapa-
citated from bodily infirmity for any other occu-
pation, I have made over to him the pecuniary
resources of the school, to wit, one shilling per
month for each scholar, paid in potatoes, &c.
So that I am altogether dependent on my stipend
from the Society for the Propagation of the
Gospel ; the more especially as I have now no
beloved son in Valparaiso to contribute to my
necessities.
* Ha died in the early part of 1856.
LETTERS FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS. 313
" Nevertheless, I will take my stand upon
these declarations of the son of Jesse : < Trust in
the Lord, and be doing good ; dwell in the land,
and verily thou shalt be fed. 7 ' He hath given
meat unto them that fear Him. He will ever be
mindful of his covenant. 7 But a greater than
either the son or grandson of Jesse has prescribed
the line of conduct imperative on the believer in
these words : ' Therefore, I say unto you, Take
no thought, 7 &c. &c. (St. Matt. vi. 2533.)
May I have grace to appropriate them !' 7
"PITCAIRN'S, July 16, 1855.
"The greatest part of the community are
holding themselves in readiness for a removal ;
and several have relinquished house-building.
We are now on the eve of yam-harvest, and
though the crop is quite a poor one, we have a
good stock of sweet potatoes to turn to ; but few
or none to spare for ships. However, humanly
speaking, the pinch of this year is over; and
perhaps by March next, we may, if it please
God, be on our route for Norfolk Island. We
are going on very comfortably at present. Both
church and school are well attended, and a very
great degree of unanimity exists.
"G. H. N."
A letter from Mrs. Nobbs to Mrs. Hey wood,
and her daughter, Lady Belcher, will afford
another example of the tone of simple, un-
affected piety, and intellectual culture, per-
vading the written communications from the
Islanders.
314 LETTER FROiVf MRS. NOBBS.
" MY DEAR LADIES, My husband has kindly
left room in his letter for me to say a few words ;
and I address you without any hesitation ; for
you seem to me as personal acquaintances. The
circumstances which brought my grandfather to
this island have made the name of your husband
and father as familiar to us as *- household words.'
And now that I have heard my dear husband
speak of the kind reception you accorded him,
and have likewise become myself the recipient
of your benevolence, I cannot let this oppor-
tunity pass without testifying my gratitude for
so much kindness to me and mine.
"It has pleased God, in his inscrutable wis-
dom, to call from time to eternity my beloved,
my firstborn. But though the tears of natural
affection will flow, and I do not restrain them,
still I sorrow not as those which have no hope.
For my dear child displayed so much of humility,
faith, and trust, that I think I may conclude, on
scriptural grounds, that he is with those who
are washed in the blood of the Lamb. ' Not lost,
but gone before.' Several others from amongst
us have been called from time into eternity,
very recently. But I perceive my husband has
given you the particulars of this. It speaks
to every member of this community, ' There-
fore, be ye also ready ! '
" My daughters bid me offer their respects
and thanks.
''Wishing you, dear sisters in Christ, every
needful blessing, believe me,
" Yours most gratefully,
" SARAH CHRISTIAN NOBBS."
SURVEY OF NORFOLK ISLAND. 315
To return to the subject of the removal to
Norfolk Island.
Captain H. M. Denham, of H.M.S. Herald, in
his " Hydrographic Notice of Islands and Reefs
in the South- Western Pacific Ocean," written on
Norfolk Island, 12th June, 1855, makes some
interesting remarks on the place appointed as
the future abode of the Pitcairn Islanders.
" The passage from Sydney to Norfolk Island
occupied eight days. Light baffling winds kept
us four days within fifty miles of it. Our track
all the way from Port Jackson was rendered as
fruitful as possible, in regard to noting the cur-
rent demarcation signs of the trade and variables
on this route at this season of the year, together
with such birds and fishes as present themselves.
And by frequent casts of the lead to 200 fathoms,
with a vigilant mast-head look-out, we satisfied
ourselves that the way is clear of islands, or
even gro wing-up dangers, . over an ample radius
upon every mile of the ship's track which our
track-charts will display ; the extent of night
vision being distinguished from that day.
" It had been published in the Sydney papers,
as resulting from a cruise of the Torch, that the
longitude of Norfolk Island was in error in some
charts 68' ; and on my consulting the published
books and charts during my passage thither, I
found discrepancies which made me unusually
anxious to clear up the point. Otherwise it was
my intention to have passed well southward of
the island to avoid the skirt of the south-easters,
and so direct for the Rosaretta reef, and then
take the start for Fiji ; experience having taught
316 SURVEY OF NORFOLK ISLAND.
me that this detour from Sydney to the Friendly
Islands makes the best passage.
" Having effected a landing on Norfolk Island
on the 6th instant, a precarious process, but in
our case without accident to any person or the
instruments, a very satisfactory set of observa-
tions, including circum-meridians for latitude,
were obtained.
" I am enabled to inform you, that the geo-
graphic position of Norfolk Island may be re-
corded as having its landing rock on the settle-
ment on the south-west side in
O / It
Latitude 29 3 45 S.
Longitude 167 58 6 E.
Magnetic variation in June (1855) . 12 34 E.
while Mount Pitt, the highest point of the island
towards its north-west end, as deduced trigono-
metrical! y, is in
/ a
Latitude 29 56 S.
Longitude ......... 167 57 E.
elevated above the sea, 1,039 feet, and visible
36 miles.
" The very boisterous weather in this region
at this its winter season, occasioning the shifting
of the ship from one side of the island to the
other for shelter, has obstructed the surveying
operations I designed ; nevertheless, by the assi-
duity of Lieutenant Hutchinson and Mr. Smith,
as well as Messrs. Howard and Wilds, I shall
be enabled to improve Bradley 's chart, in regard
to anchorage soundings, the edge of soundings,
and its direction of meridian.
SURVEY OF NORFOLK ISLAND. 317
" I may remark, that I found Norfolk Island
no longer a penal settlement. The convict esta-
blishment was withdrawn on the 7th of May ;
and it is at present occupied by an assistant
commissary storekeeper, with a few hands en-
gaged in rendering into tallow the surplus sheep
intended for the Pitcairn Islanders, who are
daily expected to occupy the island ; and whose
hearts and minds, simple though they be, will
not fail to adore the Queen and country which
put them in possession, with fostering solicitude,
of the most lovely island conceivable, with all
the facilities for industry and comfort ; compris-
ing fifteen square miles of land capable of tillage,
800 acres cleared and fenced, beautiful roads in-
tersecting it, eighty-one substantial buildings,
including chapel, schoolroom, hospital, barracks,
dwelling-houses, cottages, mills, and workshops,
together with household furniture, artisans'
tools, and agricultural implements, the gardens
stocked with seed, and the farms with 2,000
sheep, 300 cattle, horses, pigs, and poultry. ' A
bounteous bestowal indeed ! "
I Captain Denham sent home, among other
things connected with his survey, Surgeon
Eayner's " Natural History of Norfolk Island,"'
and a list of trees and vegetables at Norfolk
Island, by Mr. Milne, the gardener. The former
was forwarded to Sir Roderick I. Murchison,
Bart.; the latter to Sir William J. Hooker, Eoyal
Botanical Gardens, Kew.
In August, 1855, Sir William Denison,
Governor of New South Wales, despatched from
Sydney the Juno, a vessel of war, under the
318 VISIT OF THE JUNO TO HTCAIRN.
command of Captain Fremantle, for the object
and with the results detailed in the following
statement. This communication appeared in the
Nautical Magazine for April, 1856 :
" Having left Sydney on the 6th ult., I arrived
off Pitcairn's Island on the 18th instant (17th,
according to the Pitcairn date).
" As we approached Bounty Bay, a whale-
boat, containing the magistrate, G. M. Frederick
Young, and several other natives, came along-
side ; and having assured us that landing was
practicable, I shortly after accompanied them on
shore with half the officers.
" The cordial reception which is accorded to
officers of men-of-war by the ingenuous, warm-
hearted, and loyal inhabitants of the Island,
need not be repeated. The visit of one of Her
Majesty's ships is always a short season of
gaiety and innocent excitement. Labour and
studies are suspended, and all occupy themselves
in the service and entertainment of their .wel-1
come visitors.
t- "After having been heartily greeted by the
whole population, we proceeded to the church
and school-house, the spot usually chosen for,
assembling the community upon public matters.,
Here the object of the mission was explained to
them. The Rev. Mr. Nobbs also read out a
brief description of Norfolk Island, which had
been drawn up and furnished by His Excellency
the Governor-General of New South Wales.
" The generous proposal of Her Majesty's
Government was not altogeflier unexpected ;
VISIT OF THE JUNO TO PITCAIRN. 319
rumours of such intention had already reached
Pitcairn ; and although the mind of the people
generally was made up, they asked for a day or
two for inquiry and consultation, before finally
deciding upon so grave a question, and one so
closely affecting their future destiny*
" The following evening a general meeting of
the community was held, and a very large
majority at once closed with the offer which had
been made. Some there were, however, whose
attachment to Pitcairn was apparently too strong
to reconcile them to the thoughts of abandoning
it. Among these was George Adams, the son
of old John Adams, of the Bounty. All felt the
necessity of some change, for another subdivision
of land would reduce the portions to mere insig-
nificant patches scarcely worth cultivating. All
felt most grateful for the solicitude and liberality
manifested in their behalf by Her Majesty's
Government, but the anticipated removal was a
melancholy subject for deliberation ; the addresses
were very abrupt, and in some instances con-
find to the monosyllable ' Go/ The discussion,
however, ended by 153, out of a population of
187, declaring for Norfolk Island ; the rest I
will not say determined to remain on Pitcairn,
but they would not then acquiesce in the voice
of the majority. The lamentable migration to
Tahiti in 1831, still fresh in the recollection of
the older and more influential part of the com-
munity, no doubt prompted misgivings as to
the present scheme, although they seemed
greatly reanimated by the assuring prospects
held out by Sir William Denison's summary,
X
320 VISIT OF THE JUNO TO PITCAIRN.
and the account of Norfolk Island given ly the
officers.
" The final issue of the meeting was conveyed
in writing, signed by the Magistrate and Chap-
lain of the island. The islanders expressed
a hope that they may be allowed to live on
Norfolk Island in the same seclusion from the
rest of the world as they had hitherto done at
Pitcairn ; and it is impossible for anybody who
has once been an eye-witness of the exemplary
conduct, and the pious single-minded character
of this innocent people, not to urge a compliance
with a request so natural and so reasonable.
There was much anxiety to know what succour
or protection those that remained behind might
expect hereafter, a point on which I was unable
to afford positive information. George Adams,
in particular, pressed hard that when the ship
was sent to convey them away, the position of
those who were left, with respect to the British
Government, might be explained to them. It
was also suggested that the time of their re-
moval should not take place during the winter
months, that is, between March and July : and
I think I could detect a general wish, that
the dissolution might be postponed till after,
rather than to precede, that season of next
year.
" Subsequently to the meeting, I held some
conversation with George Adams and the others
who are disposed to stay at Pitcairn ; and being
asked for advice, I endeavoured, without using
any undue persuasion, to show that it would be
better that no separation should take place. The
VISIT OF THE JUNO TO PITCAIRN. 321
few that remained would probably find themselves
very much isolated, without grown-up men suffi-
cient to work the plantation, or to man the boat,
and without the means of controlling the crews
of whalers, which now frequently call off the
island for water, and to barter clothing and other
necessaries for fruit and vegetables : or prevent
their settling there. Much of the interest felt
towards them would be transferred to Norfolk
Island, whither the main body would be gone ;
and it is to be feared, that without clergyman or
teacher, the rising generation might not imbibe
or retain those pious and moral principles which
are now universal. There is great reason to
expect that, when the time comes, not one will
adhere to the resolution of stopping behind ; so
affectionate, so attached are they to each other,
and the ties of relationship necessarily so inter-
woven, that the moment of parting will in all
probability stifle all other considerations.
" The condition of the island and of its inha-
bitants has in no respect been changed since it
was visited by Admiral Moresby in 1852-53.
So much has been written and published about
them, that it would be superfluous to recapi-
tulate the peculiar characteristics which have
excited so much interest in England, and gained
for them the affectionate sympathy of all their
fellow Christians. I can only add my corro bo-
ration to their still remaining the same cheerful,
docile, unsophisticated community, as they have
been so often represented. The enthusiasm dis-
played by the officers, and especially by the ship's
company, for their welfare, was quite uncontrol-
x 2
-322 VISIT OF THE JUNO TO PITCAIRK,
lable; they were ready to part with anything,
everything, to supply or gratify them; and equally
anxious to carry away some object or token in
remembrance of the island, even to the stones
on the beach. But the girls perceiving this, ran
and collected a quantity of tappa, sufficient for
every man in the ship to receive a suitable
memorial.
" The yam harvest having been recently
gathered in, there was no deficiency of the
ordinary means of subsistence ; but their stock of
animal food is very limited, and fish have become
of late years exceedingly scarce. A liberal con-
tribution of salt meat was furnished by the men
and officers from their messes, and, in addition,
the Paymaster was authorized to supply them
with four casks of beef on the part of the Govern-
ment, likewise a small quantity of soap, of which
they were almost destitute. The poor people
expressed their gratitude with frank simplicity ;
they especially prize any favour or attention
which has its source from the Crown or Govern-
ment of England, and they evince the greatest
anxiety, and esteem it their highest privilege to
be recognised as subjects of her most gracious
Majesty.
" The last man-of-war that touched at Pitcairn
was the Amphitrite, in February last. An
American whaler, the Matthew Luce, Mr. Coon,
Master, was off the land in daily communication
with the shore."
In January, 1856, many of the community
suffered from a catarrhal affection, the germs of
VISIT OF THE DIDO* 323
the disease having been communicated, as Mr,
Nobbs thought, by a California^ ship which had
called at the island a few weeks previous. He
had many on the sick list. " But," said he, " I
am well supplied with the appropriate remedies.''
Subsequently (April 10, 1856), he gave the
following graphic account:
" Yesterday we were electrified by a shout from
the ' Rope/ that a man-of-war was in sight. The
wind was light, and she made but slow progress,
However, about 9 P.M. her boat arrived off the
harbour of Bounty Bay. The officers landed in
our boat : it was very smooth, and the young
moon was shining right into the bight. The
ship proved to be the Dido ; and right glad
we are to see our kind friend Captain Morshead
again. She sails this afternoon. Last Sep-
tember H.M.S. Juno touched here to inquire
how many persons were anxious to remove to
Norfolk Island. One hundred and fifty-three
persons concluded to go, and we expected a
vessel ere this to remove us ; but it seems they
will wait till the winter months are past, and
I now understand the vessel is to be here in
July or August. We are very anxious to be
going, for we are become gradually more strait-
ened. We have had one death since I last
wrote Edward Quintal, who was the school-
master : his end was peace. My son Francis
now teaches the school ; but I am with him four
hours every day Everything goes on smoothly,
and 1 trust will continue to do so. Frederick
Young was re-elected this year ; and an excellent
magistrate he has proved himself.
324
HURRICANE ON THE PACIFIC.
" 13th April. Captain Morshead is gone down
to the landing-place to embark ; and I must run
after him with this hasty scrawl."
Captain Morshead, writing from Valparaiso,
13th May, 1856, said that he had left the Pitcairn
islanders on the 13th April, having arranged
for their departure for Norfolk Island. The
people were in good health. They had lately
been slaying many of the cattle, their stock
having increased and thriven wonderfully.
The Dido was caught in a hurricane off
Raiatea, and very seriously damaged.
ISLAND OF JUAN FERNANDEZ.
The residence of Alex. Selkirk from Sept 1704 to Feb. 17W; and the scene of the
Adventures of Robinson Crusoe.
CHAPTER XII.
SERMONS PREACHED BY MR. NOBBS ON PITCAIRN'S ISLAND-
THE HARP OF PITCAIRN EVENING HYMN " THE ANGELS*
LAMENT" i BELIEVE, i BELIEVE FENOA MAITAI
NATIONAL SONG SONG OF THE PITCAIRN ISLANDERS
BIRTHS, DEATHS, AND MARRIAGES LIST OF SHIPS SIGNALS
PITCAIRN A WILDERNESS.
THE reader will be glad of the opportunity of
seeing some specimens of discourses preached in
the distant Island of Pitcairn to the descendants
of the mutineers of the Bounty. It is pleasing
to observe, from the faithful and affectionate tone
of address adopted by the Preacher of Pitcairn
towards the little flock assembled in the church
of that place, that they have the blessed means
of learning what is the faith and duty of a Chris-
tian. It will also be seen that these extracts,
as well as some poetical ones which follow,
possess a certain degree of literary merit.
The following sermon was preached by Mr.
Nobbs in the church at Pitcairn :
Rev. xxii. 17. The Spirit and the Bride say, Come: And
let him that heareth say, Come. And let him that is athirst
come. And whosoever will, let him take the water of life
freely.
" There is in the Holy Scriptures such an
adaptation to the wants of man, as a mortal and
a sinner, that independently of the command to
' search ' them, we ought to make the Bible ' the
326 SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND.
man of our counsel.' In all conditions of life,
in prosperity or adversity, in sickness or health,
in all places and at all times, the Bible, if referred
to with a single eye and a prayerful disposition,
will prove * a lamp to our feet and a light to our
paths.'
" Such considerations as these ought to stimu-
late us in our inquiries after happiness, even if
it ended with this life. But if we believe that
our time of sojourning here is merely proba-
tionary, and to be viewed only as an introduc-
tion to another and eternal state, yet that our
everlasting happiness or misery depends entirely
upon the use we make of the very short period
allotted to us in the flesh, then are we not inex-
cusable, if we neglect those means which God,
of his infinite mercy and goodness, has been
pleased to put within our reach? the only
means which, by the Divine blessing, can make
us wise unto salvation. For 'faith, 7 we are as-
sured, ' cometh by hearing, and hearing by the
word of God. 7 Open the Bible, and you can
scarcely look upon a page that does not inform
you of our wretched state by nature, and by
actual transgression. It asserts that 'by one
man's transgression many were made sinners ; '
that ' the heart of man is deceitful above all
things, and desperately wicked;' and it declares
in unequivocal language, 'The soul that sinneth,
it shall die.' Dreadful as this view of the subject
may appear, and dreadful it really is to the
impenitent offender, yet, blessed be God!
wherever in his holy word He has pronounced
a curse against sin, an offer of pardon to the
SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND. 327
sinner, if lie will turn from his evil way, inva-
riably follows. So far from desiring the death
of a sinner, God hath declared, 'It is because
he is God, and not man, therefore we are not
consumed.' And again, ' O Israel, thou hast
destroyed thyself; but in me is thy help!' Bat,
though numberless exceedingly precious .pro-
mises for the encouragement of the ' weary and
heavy-laden ' are to be found in the Old Testa-
ment, yet it is in the life and death of Jesus
Christ that all the promises of his Father are
fully developed; for they are all 'Yea arid Amen/
in Christ Jesus our Lord : ' For God so loved
the world, that He gave his only-begotten Son,
that whosoever believe th in Him should not
perish, but have everlasting life.' How encou-
raging, then, the thought that we have an Advo-
cate with the Father a compassionate High-
priest, who died for our sins, and rose again for
our justification; who ever liveth to make inter-
cession for us ; and who now urgeth us by his
word and by his Spirit to repent and be con-
verted, that our sins may be blotted out ! Majr
we be made c willing in the day of his power,'
even now, while we consider the importance of
the words in the text, in which we have :
" 1. An exhortation. 'The Spirit and the
Bride say, Come.'
" 2. A command. ' Let him that heareth say,
Come.'
"3. An encouragement. * Let him that is
athirst come.'
"4. A general invitation. c Whosoever will,
let him take the water of life freely/
328 SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND.
" 1. An exhortation. ' The Spirit and the
Bride say, Come.'
"Our blessed Saviour said to his disciples.
a short time before He suffered, ' It is expedient
for you that I go away ; for if I go not away,
the Comforter will not come unto you.' And it
is recorded in the Acts of the Apostles, that on
the day of Pentecost, the Holy Ghost, the Com-
forter, descended upon the Apostles, and so
endued them with power from on high, that,
regardless of personal safety, they hastened forth
into the midst of Jerusalem, and there, sur-
rounded by a mixed and innumerable multitude,
declared the wonderful works of God.
" But the Holy Spirit did not descend upon
the Apostles merely to invest them with mira-
culous power, by which they might prove that
Jesus was the Messiah, and that they, in conse-
quence of their attachment to Him, while He
sojourned upon earth, were thus singularly and
favourably noticed. Far otherwise ; for one
especial purpose of the coming of the Holy Ghost
was to c convince the world of sin.' And that,
this purpose was accomplished on the memorable
day alluded to is certain ; for the multitude, after
hearing Peter's declaration, i were pricked in
their heart, and said unto Peter, and to the rest
of the apostles, Men and brethren, what shall
we do?'
" Oh, what a glorious specimen of divine
mercy was here ! what a proof that God is long-
suffering, slow to anger, and willeth not the death
of a sinner, but that all should turn unto Him,
and live ! Here, in the very place where Christ
SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND, 329
was crucified, among those who demanded his
blood, did the Holy Spirit commence his opera-
tions, and say to each one of them, i Come. 7
Brethren, we by nature and practice are exactly
in the same state in which those Jews were.
' In us, that is, in our flesh, dwelleth no good
thing.' But that same Holy Spirit who pricked
the Jews in the heart is now striving with us,
and convinces us, as it did them, of sin. It is
allowed that the miraculous gifts of the Spirit
have ceased long since, but his ordinary opera-
tions in the heart of man are continued, and will
continue, till the great and notable day of the
Lord come. But how do we treat them? Do
we encourage them? Do we desire that they
may be increased within us in frequency and
power ? Do we pray to be c endued with the
grace of the Holy Spirit, to amend our lives
according to God's holy word ? 7 Or when, in
effect, He says to us, ' Come, now, and let us
reason together,' do we resist his gracious influ-
ences and say, ' Depart from us, we desire not
the knowledge of thy ways ? ' If, alas ! this is
the case, and that which the holy martyr Stephen
said of the Jews, * Ye stiffnecked and uncircum-
cised in heart and ears, ye do always resist the
Holy Ghost,' is applicable to us, then 'there
remaineth nothing but a certain fearful looking
for of judgment arid .fiery indignation/ For the
Almighty, whom we have insulted, will say unto
us, * Because I have called and ye refused ; I
have stretched out my hand, and no man re-
garded; but ye have set at nought all iny coun-
sel, and would none of my reproof; I also will
3,30 SERMON PREACHED ON THE
laugh at your calamity, I will mock when your
fear cometh ; when your fear cometh as a deso-
lation, and your destruction cometh as a whirl-
wind ; when distress and anguish cometh upon
you. 7
" But there is another thing to be observed in
this exhortation, viz. ' the BRIDE says, Come.'
It is by this endearing appellation that Christ
condescends to call the Church, that is, the
congregation of the faithful in all ages up to the
present time wherever their lot may be cast,
whatever their situation in life. The constant
theme of their conduct and conversation to those
around is ' We are journeying unto the place
of which the Lord said, I will give it you ; come
thou with us, and we will do thee good, for the
Lord hath spoken good concerning Israel. 7
" When Peter exhorted the alarmed Jews to
repent, the members of the visible Church were
few in number, and oppressed with poverty ;
but did they on this account consider themselves
excused from declaring the whole counsel of
God, and making known the great salvation
which had been effected by the death of the
Lord Jesus? Certainly not. And what was
the result ? Multitudes of bigoted Jews alarmed,
and at least three thousand souls added to the
Church. Well might St. Paul exclaim, at a
somewhat later period, c God hath chosen the
foolish things of the world to confound the wise,
and God hath chosen the weak things of the
world to confound the things that are mighty/
But time would fail me were I to attempt de-
scribing a millionth part of what the Bride has
SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND, 331
been ever ready to do, for the honour of her
Beloved. Let it suffice to say, every individual
tinder this roof has been invited by her to come
unto the Lord.
The valuable presents, of a religious kind,
which have, from time to time, been sent to the
distant island in which my lot is cast, are just
so many invitations from the Church of Christ,
saying, 'Come with us, and we will do thee
good. 1 The Bibles, Prayer-books, sermons,
tracts, and a variety of other good books which
have been liberally bestowed upon us, all join
in expressing the desire of their donors, ' Save
yourselves from this untoward generation.'
And, blessed be God ! the invitation has been
accepted. The benevolent call has been, re-
sponded to : ' Thy people shall be my people,
and thy God my God. 7 My brethren, we live
in a glorious time. Never before was there
such a simultaneous movement made against
the powers of darkness. Multitudes who, a few
years since, had never heard of a Saviour, now
have the glad tidings of salvation by Jesus
Christ preached, every nation in their own lan-
guage. And tens of thousands from distant
lands and isles of the sea are still stretching out
their hands, and saying to the Church of Christ,
' Come over and help us/
" Nor w r ill they call in vain. Every year
many holy men leave their country and friends,
to endure persecution, famine, nakedness, and
encounter even death itself, to unstop the deaf
ears, to open the blind eyes, to turn the heathen
from the power of Satan unto God, that they
332 SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND.
may receive the forgiveness of sins, and in-
heritance among them which are sanctified by
faith in Jesus Christ.
"2. A command. * Let him that heareth
say, Come.'
" Our blessed Saviour knew that the Church
collectively, as a body, would always be anxious
for the salvation of sinners, inasmuch as thereby
the glory of her Lord would be eminently
exalted. But he also foresaw that individual
members of that Church would be prone to luke-
warmness in his cause, and bury their talent in
the earth. To prevent this, He says in the
text, ' Let him that heareth say, Come.' As if
He had said, ' Ye profess to be my disciples to
have received the remission of your sins through
faith in my blood, which was shed for many.
Do not, then, desire to keep so great a salvation
for yourselves only, or for a few of your nearest
and dearest relations. It was not my design,
when I left the bosom of my Father and came
down upon earth, to die for the sins of any par-
ticular kindred, or tongue, or nation of mankind :
my blood was shed for all the sons of Adam,
that as there is none other name under heaven
given among men whereby they must be saved,
and as my Father desireth not the death of a
sinner, but that all should turn unto him and
live so whosoever cometh to him by me shall
not perish, but have everlasting life. Publish,
then, abroad this great salvation. Declare unto
sinners what I have done for your souls ; tell
them that although they have destroyed them-
selves, yet in me there is help ; that ye have
SERMON PREACHED ON THE INLAND. 333
found joy and peace in believing, and a good
hope, through grace, to enable you to go on your
way rejoicing/
" This, my friends, appears to be the purport
of that part of the text now under consideration ;
and, if correct, does it not loudly say to every
sincere professor 'Up and be doing, that the
Lord may be with thee ? ' Barren fig-trees will
not be permitted to stand in Christ's vineyard.
We should be instant, in season and out of
season, exhorting with all long-suffering, never
weary of our work ofefaith and labour of love ;,
but should strive by word and deed to convince
sinners of their danger, that they may turn from
their evil ways. Thus doing, we shall comply
with the commands of our Master, procure for
ourselves an increase of happiness, and illustrate
the promise of the Apostle, that ' he which con-
verteth a sinner from the evil of his ways, shall
save a soul from death, and hide a multitude of
sins.'
" 3. Encouragement. ' Let him that is athirst
come. 7
" It is one of the glorious attributes of the
Gospel, that a sincere reception of it renders
null and void all the denunciations of the law.
For whosoever has fled to it as the shadow of
a great rock in a dry and weary land, who-
soever is subjected to its salutary influences,
is 'no longer under the law, but under grace.'
The awakened sinner may write bitter things
against himself, but to such an one it may be
said, i Be of good cheer, .lie calleth thee.' Jesus
was fully aware of the obstacles that would arise
334 SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND.
in the way of a penitent sinner. He knew also
that, as no one would flee from the wrath to
come without his suggesting the necessity, so no
one could escape but by his special assistance.
He has, therefore, cheered the road from death
unto life with encouragements and consolations.
Let us, then, for the benefit of the thirsty soul,
recite two or three of them. They are the words
of the blessed Jesus himself ' There is joy in
the presence of the angels of God over one
sinner that repenteth.' ' Come unto me, all ye
that labour and are heavy laden, and I will give
you rest.' * I ana the bread of life : he that
cometh to me shall never hunger, and he that
belie veth on me shall never thirst.' * Him that
cometh unto me I will in nowise cast out/
'Whatsoever ye shall ask in my name, that
will I do, that my Father may be glorified in
me. If ye shall ask anything in my name,
I will do it.' Are not these rills exceedingly
delicious to the parched, fainting soul ? Ye that
hunger and thirst after righteousness, declare,
is it not such consolation as this that ye have
need of? Yes, you may reply, if I were in-
cluded, such inviting language would cheer my
' heart : my sincere desire is, to be admitted into
Christ's fold : but I am so laden with sin, my
corruptions are so many, I am so vile in my own
eyes, and consequently must be so much more vile
in His sight who is of purer eyes than to behold
iniquity, that my heart faileth, and I know not
wherewith to come before the Most High,
" O tliou of little faith, wherefore dost thou
doubt? Is not obedience better than sacrifice?
SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND. 335
What is it that Christ requires of thee, but that
thou shouldst close with his unqualified offer
of free salvation ? If thou comest to Him pol-
luted, He will cleanse thee ; if thou art naked,
He will clothe thee ; if thou art wretched, He
will cheer thee. He will give thee joy for
sorrow, riches for poverty, health for sickness.
To sum up the whole, come to Christ without
delay. While the Spirit worketh within you,
speak to Him in earnest, persevering prayer,
and He will hear your supplications : you may
remain in heaviness for a time ; but be not
weary in well-doing, and the certain result will
be that He will speak comfort to thy soul. He
will enlighten thy mind, and bid thee ' go in
peace, thy sins are forgiven/
" 4. A general invitation. ' Whosoever will s
let him take the water of life freely. 7
" Glory be to God! salvation by Jesus Christ
is so fully made known, and so frankly offered
in the Gospel, that whosoever will, may take
the water of life freely. Nor is the invitation
confined to Gospel times. Long before Christ
appeared in the flesh, the proclamation was
extant. Hear the prophet Isaiah, under the
influence of the Holy Spirit, crying aloud
1 Ho, every one that thirsteth, come ye to the
waters ; and he that hath no money, come ye,
buy, and eat; yea, come, buy wine and milk
without money and without price. 1 Again
Seek ye the Lord while he may be found, call
upon him while he is near : let the wicked for-
sake his way, and the unrighteous man his
thoughts: and let him return unto the Lord,
Y
336 SERMON PLEACHED ON THE ISLAND.
and lie will have mercy upon him ; and to our
God, for he will abundantly pardon.' Hear
also what God saith by the mouth of the prophet
Ezekiel ' Have I any pleasure at all in the
death of the wicked, and not that he should
return from his ways, and live? As I live,
saith the Lord, I have no pleasure in the death
of the wicked ; but that the wicked turn from his
ways and live : turn ye, turn ye from your evil
ways ; for why will ye die ? ' Here are no
exceptions made; God willeth not the death
of a sinner. He says to no one, Thou art con-
demned from eternity ; but contrariwise, ' Turn
ye, turn ye ; why will ye die ? '
" John the Baptist testified of Christ that He
was the ' Lamb of God which taketh away the
sins of the world.' And the Lord himself said
to his disciples ' If I be lifted up, I will draw
all men unto me.'
"My object in reciting these passages of
Scripture is, to illustrate the great Scripture
truth, that God will accept the returning peni-
tent ; and that, while the day of salvation lasts,
we are encouraged to come unto Him that
' willeth not the death of a sinner, but that all
should turn to Him and live. 3
"But let not this forbearance and long-suf-
fering of God be perverted to our own ruin.
/ Now is the accepted time, now is the day of
salvation.' '
This sermon was not only preached in Pit-
cairn's Island, but also in London. On Sunday
morning, Nov. 28th 7 1852, the Pastor of Pitcairn
SEItMON PKEACHED BY MR. NOBBS. 337
delivered the same discourse in the parish church
of St. Dunstan-in-the-East, City, and added the
following passages :
" And now, my brethren, will you bear with
me for a few moments, whilst I refer to circum-
stances which have come in a great measure
under my own immediate notice, in the com-
munity over which I have for nearly twenty-
five years been the unworthy pastor ?
" Many years ago,, an officer and some seamen
belonging to the British navy, after committing
an unjustifiable act that of mutiny fled for
safety to Pitcairn, an isolated rock in the South
Pacific Ocean, taking with them some Otaheitan
men and women. Within ten years, all the
men, with the exception of two, came to an
untimely end; one of these two died of con-
sumption ; and the last of this party of mutineers
was left on the island with five or six heathen
\vomen, and twenty fatherless children. After
some time this man, John Adams by name,
became seriously impressed with the responsi-
bility of the situation in which he was p laced.
Here were a number of young persons between
the ages of five and fifteen years, growing up in
ignorance of the God who made them. And
they would, humanly speaking, in a few years
have become confirmed idolaters, from the
example of their heathen mothers.
" These considerations weighed heavily on
Adams's mind ; and it was then that he had
two alarming dreams, which so affected him,
that he could scarcely eat or sleep for some time,
338 SERMON PEEACHED BY MK. NOBBS.
when he bethought himself of the Bible, brought
on shore from the Bounty, which had been much
used by Christian, and also by Young in his
last illness. After some search he found it, and
commenced reading it, imperfectly at first, for
he had never been to school, but had taught
himself what he did know from scraps of paper
picked up by him, when a boy, in the streets of
London. Being, however, a man of excellent
natural abilities, he was soon enabled to read
with facility both the Bible and the Book of
Common Prayer ; a single Prayer-book also
having happily been recovered from the Bounty.
He commenced praying in secret three times a
day ; nor did he pray in vain ; his mind became
enlightened, he saw his guilt and danger; and
he was almost tempted to despair of pardon.
Still, as he persevered in reading the Bible, he
gradually became acquainted with the Gospel
method of salvation ; and, by the guidance of
the Holy Spirit, was enabled to come to Him
who is mighty to save. In short, my brethren,
he was brought to Jesus.
" Now, mark the result. From this time he
commenced instructing the children of the muti-
neers, first by reading to them portions of the
Scriptures, and subsequently teaching them to
read for themselves; and so anxious were the
young people to learn, that on one occasion two
of the lads, who were employed by Adams to
make a mattock of iron from the wreck of the
Bounty, instead of accepting the promised com-
pensation, (a quantity of gunpowder,) told
Adams, they would rather he should give them
SERMON PREACHED BY MR. NOBBS. 339
some extra lessons from God's Book, a name
by which they used to designate the Bible.
And now peace and contentment pervaded this
rock of the West. The young men and women
entered into the social relations of husband and
wife; and they, in turn, depending on that
most precious promise of their all-sufficient
Saviour, ' Where two or three are gathered
together in my name, there am I in the midst
of them/ instructed their children with that
knowledge which is better than riches. They
brought them to Jesus.
" The population of this settlement now
amounts to 170 persons, who are living without
any dissensions, and with but one form of Church
Dvernment that of the Church of England,
he Holy Bible, and the Church Prayer-book,
are their chief rules of guidance ; their motto,
'One Faith, one Lord, one Baptism.' And
when I, their pastor, took a sorrowful leave of
them, about three months since, they were
strong in faith, giving glory to God. That they,
and all who hear me this day, may be included
in that most precious invitation, ' Come, ye
blessed of my Father, inherit the kingdom pre-
pared for you from the foundation of the world,'
may God of his infinite mercy grant, for Jesus
Christ's sake. Amen."
The same sermon was preached by Mr. ISTobbs
in St. Mary's Chapel, Park-street, Grosvenor-
square, on Sunday morning, December 12th,
1852, and was printed at the request of several
members of the congregation.
340 SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND.
On the occasion of a wedding sermon, preached
by Mr. Nobbs, in Pitcairn Church, four young
persons having, on the same morning, entered
into the holy estate of matrimony, he took his
text from Eph. v. 22, &c. : " Wives, submit
yourselves unto your own husbands, as unto the
Lord. For the husband is the head of the wife,
even as Christ is the head of the Church : and
He is the Saviour of the body. Therefore as the
Church is subject unto Christ, so let the wives
be to their own husbands in everything. Hus-
bands, love your wives, even as Christ also loved
the Church, and gave himself for it."
After speaking of the holy influence of the
Christian religion, in restoring women to their
proper place in society, he described the igno-
miny with which females are treated, not only
among the natives of the islands of the Southern
Pacific, but among the Hindoos, and Moham-
medans, and the inhabitants of other countries,
especially in the East, in which a false religion
and absurd superstitions prevail. To this evil
principle he attributed the custom, so long pre-
valent in India, of sacrificing widows at the
funerals of their husbands, and wickedly de-
stroying numbers of female infants.
" I am sure, my female friends, your hearts are
ready to sink within you at the recital of such
horrible atrocities; but it is the truth. Nay,
I need only refer you to the account of the land
from whence your mothers and grandmothers
came. You have heard them declare how the
women were degraded in their country, being
SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND. 341
looked upon as inferior creatures, and how often
female infants were put to death. So true is
it tli at the dark places of the earth are full of
cruelty, But where the Christian religion ob-
tains, there woman rises to her proper station
the friend of man. Nor are her expectations of
happiness confined to this life. She is informed
in the Scriptures, that she has an immortal soul,
which Christ died to redeem, and that after
death she will be eternally happy or miserable,
as she employs the talent here committed to her
care. She will understand, also, that, as the
Church of which she is a member is required
to be obedient to the commands of Christ, its
Head, so must she also be obedient unto her
husband, and for the same reason. Christ is
the Head of the Church, and the man is the
head of the woman.
" How thankful ought every woman present
to be when she reflects on the wonderful good-
ness of God in preserving the life of the late
Mr. John Adams, until a knowledge of the
Christian religion was extant among you ! Had
he been cut off when ye were in your child-
hood, in all probability your husbands would be
bowing to a stock or a stone, and ye, instead of
uniting in the worship of the true God, would not
indeed have been permitted to enter the temple
of idols, but would have remained all your
lives the slaves of sensuality and caprice ;
despised by your tyrannical masters, scorned
by your own children, deserted in your sick-
ness, and without hope, and without God in
the world.
342 SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND.
" Bless God, then, for Jesus Christ, my
female friends. Serve Him with sincerity of
heart, and remember it is He that commands
you to submit yourselves unto your husbands
as unto Himself.
" Men and brethren, To you I next address
my discourse. On you chiefly depends the hap-
piness of your families. Remember, when you
entered the married state, you promised to love
and honour your wives. See, then, that you are
true to your engagements. Let Christ's love to
his Church be an example for you to copy. To
each I would say, Love your wife with a pure
heart, fervently. Never speak disrespectfully of
her to other people. Never call her ill names ;
neither be fond of showing that you are master
before other people. This makes a woman feel
her inferiority, and lowers her in the opinion of
many. Avoid all occasion of controversy in
public. If you differ in opinion, argue the
matter over by yourselves, and you will come
to a rational conclusion sooner than in com-
pany. See that your children pay a proper
respect to their mother. Set them a good ex-
ample yourself, and they will be easily taught
to follow it. Children are imitative beings;
and if they observe one parent indulge in sar-
casms, or improper expressions at the expense
of the other, they will be sure to do so too.
Many children have been taught to despise their
mother from improper appellations bestowed
upon her by their other parent. If your wife
wishes to send the children to any place, never
countermand her orders without good reason:
SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND. 343
and then tell her why you do so. Whenever
your wife sees fit to chastise any of the children,
do not interfere in their behalf. By so doing,
you teach them to set her authority at nought.
But time would fail me, were I to attempt
giving directions in every particular relative to
the proper conduct of married persons towards
each other, and towards their children. The
Word of God abounds with instructions as to
our mutual duties ; I shall therefore conclude
with this piece of advice :
" i Husbands, love your wives, and be not
bitter against them.' ' Live with them according
to knowledge, for no man ever yet hated his
own flesh ; but nourisheth and cherisheth it,
even as the Lord the Church.' ' Rejoice with
the wife of thy youth, and be thou always satis-
fied with her love: for she is thy companion,
and the wife of thy covenant.' c Go not after
a stranger; and let none deal treacherously
against the wife of thy youth.'
" ' Wives, be in subjection to your own hus-
bands; that, if any obey not the word, they
also may without the word be won by the con-
versation of the wives ; while they behold your
chaste conversation coupled with fear.' ' For
after this manner in the old time the holy
women, who trusted in God, were in subjection
to their own husbands : even as Sarah obeyed
Abraham, calling him lord; whose daughters
ye are, as long as ye do well.'.
" And for your comfort and commendation,
and to induce in you a deportment in conformity
with the will of God, remember it is expressly
344 SERMON PREACHED OX THE ISLAND.
said, < A prudent wife is from the Lord. The
heart of her husband doth safely trust in her ;
she will do him good and not evil all the days of
her life. She openeth her mouth with wisdom ;
and in her tongue is the law of kindness. She
looketh well to the ways of her household, and
eateth not the bread of idleness. Her children
arise up, and call her blessed ; her husband also,
and he praiseth her.'
" Husbands and wives, excite each other in
the path of duty. Form the holy resolution,
that you and your house will serve the Lord ;
and having made this resolution, persevere in it
till death. Be diligent in reading the Word of
God, and causing it to be read in your families.
' Search the Scriptures, for in them ye think ye
have eternal life,' is a precept of our blessed
Lord ; and parents are in a peculiar manner
bound to instruct their children in the knowledge
of the Word of God. Family prayer is a duty
as absolutely necessary as reading the Word of
God ; for prayer is an excellent means to render
reading effectual. We read that our blessed
Lord, when He dwelt on earth, promised a
peculiar blessing to joint supplications : ' Where-
soever two or three are gathered together in my
name, there am I in the midst of them.' And to
this, that we are commanded by the Apostle to
c pray always with all manner of supplication,'
which, doubtless, includes family prayer.
" Remember, the time will come, and that,
perhaps, very shortly, when we must all appear
before the judgment-seat of Christ, where we
must give a solemn and strict account how
SERMON PREACHED ON THE ISLAND. 345
we have had our conversation in our respective
families in this world. How will you endure
to see your children, who ought to be your joy
and crown of rejoicing in the day of our Lord
Jesus, coming out as so many swift witnesses
against you ! consider this, all ye that forget
to serve the Lord with your respective house-
holds, lest He pluck you away, and there be
none to deliver you !
" Do, I beseech you, seriously reflect on what
has been said this morning. It is the last day
of the year ; and who may be permitted to see
the close of the approaching year, God only
knows. Do but seriously and frequently reflect
on, and act as persons that believe, such impor-
tant truths, and you will not neglect either your
own spiritual welfare, or your family's. And
though, after all your pious endeavours, some
may continue unreformed, yet you will have
this comfortable reflection that you did what
you could to make your families religious, and
therefore may rest assured of sitting down with
Abraham, Isaac, Cornelius, Hannah, Lydia,
Mary, and Dorcas, and all the godly families,
who, in their several generations, shone forth as
so many lights in their respective households
upon earth. Now the Lord Jesus Christ, who
is God over all, blessed for ever, assist and
watch over you, and keep you from all evil and
sin here, and present .you before his Father
faultless at the great day of account.
" To God the Father, the Lord Jesus Christ,
and the blessed Spirit, three Persons, and one
eternal God, be ascribed, &c. Amen."
346 THE HARP OF PITCA1RX.
The Chaplain of Pitcairn has not only the
power of expressing himself well and clearly
in prose: he also possesses the happy art of
framing his thoughts in verse. This talent
he has often exerted, on subjects of national and
religious interest, at the wish of members of the
Pitcairn community. As a suitable conclusion
of this chapter, a few poems from the Pastor's
pen are inserted by his permission. These being
considered as simple strains of the HARP OF
PITCAIRN, will not be subjected to severe
criticism. On the contrary, the piety, loyalty,
and evident desire for the happiness of others,
which are manifested in the following stanzas,
will commend them to the candid Christian
reader. They may even tend, as an addition
to the specimens of Mr. Nobbs's sermons and
letters, to excite a feeling of thankfulness, that,
in the course of God's providence, such a man
should have been called to such a post, at the
very time that a teacher and friend was most
urgently needed by the islanders.
EVENING HYMN.
1.
FATHER, let our supplications
Find acceptance in thy sight ;
Free from Satan's foul temptations,
From the perils of the night,
Oh, preserve us,
Till return of morning light.
THE HARP OF PITCAIRN. 347
Jesus, friend of dying sinners,
Ere we close our eyes m sleep,
Let the hope that dwells within us
Prove thou dost thy people keep ;
Gracious Shepherd !
From the wolf defend thy sheep.
3.
Holy Ghost, be ever near us,
Make our hearts thy blest abode ;
Strengthen, purify, and cheer us.
Raise our waking thoughts to God ;
With sweet visions
Gild the hours on sleep bestow'd.
4-.
Father, Son, and Holy Spirit,
Us into thy keeping take ;
Not for our deserts or merit,
Solely for thy mercy's sake,
Oh, protect us,
When we sleep and when we wake.
HYMN.
1.
'I WILL not encumber my verse
With metaphor, figure, or trope ;
Nor will I the praises rehearse
Of aught in creation's wide scope ; v
My Bible shall furnish the theme,
My subject will angels applaud,
My soul shall rejoice in his name,
My Brother, iny Saviour, my God.
348 THE HARP OF PITCAIIiN.
2.
My Brother! how grateful that sound
When sorrow preys deep on the heart ;
When malice and discord abound,
What balm can a. brother impart !
A tender, unchangeable friend,
On whose bosom 'tis sweet to recline,
Ever prompt to assist or defend ;
Such a Friend, such a Brother is mine.
3,
My Saviour! Thrice-glorious name!
But who of the children of men
The wondrous appointment may claim ?
Or who can the title sustain ?
Immanuel, Jesus, alone
Doth fulness and fitness combine,
He only for sin can atone,
And He is my Saviour, e'eii mine.
4.
My God ! what a mystery is this ;
Jehovah appears as a man !
Truth, wisdom, grace, mercy, and peace,
Devised the inscrutable plan ;
He came to redeem us from hell,
He died to effect his design,
He reigns where the glorified dwell,
And he is my God, ever mine.
5.
Then what upon earth need I fear ?
My Brother partakes my distress,
My Saviour attends to my prayer,
My God deigns to pardon and bless.
Through life as I journey along,
Sustained by thy staff and thy rod,
Thy love shall give life to my song,
My Brother, my Saviour, my God.
Pitcairn's Island, South Pacific Ocean,
Lat.25i', Long. 130 8'.
THE HARP OF PITCAI11N. 349
THE ANGELS' LAMENT.
CONTRASTED WITH LUKE xv. 10.
1.
ENSLAVED by sin, in league with hell,
Prompt to obey, should Satan call,
Thine own deceivings please thee well ;
Opprest, yet held in willing thrall :
The gall of bitterness is thine,
Still dost thou not thy state discern ;
Though more degraded than the swine,
rf Thou wilt not to thy home return.
2.
The crown is fallen from thy head,
The gold of Ophir, oh, how dim !
Burning appears in beauty's stead.
And all thy garb in wretched trim.
Alas, alas ! how art thou changed,
Yet angels thy rebellion mourn;
Though from thy Saviour-God estranged,
He still invites thee to return.
3.
What is thy hope ? What canst thou find
To equal thy Redeemer's love ?
Riches are fleeting as the wind,
And pride and lust will adders prove.
Oh stay, oh stay thy mad career,
Ere to destruction thou art borne ;
Infatuated sinner, hear;
Deluded wanderer, return.
4.
Recal to mind those precious hours
When in the truth thy footsteps trod ;
When heart, and mind, and all thy powers
Were dedicated to thy God.
Sweet, sweet it was to hear thee then,
In grateful strains to heaven upborne \
And shall they not ascend again ?
* O prodigal, return, return 1
350 THE HARP OF PITCA1EN.
5.
High on presumption's tottering mast,
Held by a thread in reckless sleep,
Thou fear'st not, though th' approaching blast
May whirl thee headlong to the deep.
Awake, awake, no longer dare
The vengeance thou affect' st to scorn,
Lest thy enraged Creator swear,
" Thou never, never shalt i
6.
Canst thou 'midst endless burnings dwell ?
Or with eternal fire abide ?
That thou wouldst madly doom to hell
The soul for which Immanuel died.
Arise, arise, repent, believe,
The Spirit's call no longer spurn ;
Thy Saviour will the welcome give,
And angels joy at thy return.
This hymn was composed at the request of
several of our little community, who wished to
have one of their own, which they might sing to
the pathetic air of " Bonny Doon." G. H. N.
I BELIEVE, I BELIEVE.
" How are you to-day, Polly? " said I to the
wife of George Adams, who had long been
grievously afflicted with a cancer in her breast,
and was rapidly approaching the grave.
" I shall soon be at home, sir" she said.^
" On whom is your hope placed at this time ?'
I asked.
" On the blessed Saviour who died for me, and
has redeemed meS'
And then she went on to declare her faith and
THE HARP OF PITCAIRN 351
hope, of which the accompanying verses are the
substance.
You ask how I feel in the prospect of death,
And whether the grave has no terrors for me ?
If brig-lit are my hopes, and unshaken my faith,
And to whom for relief in my sufferings I flee ?
The questions are weighty, and I am so weak,
Yet will I endeavour an answer to give ;
And this is the substance of what I would speak*
I believe, I believe.
On the brink of the grave it has pleased my Lord
To keep me long waiting the word to depart ;
And though for dismission I oft have implored,
let He has forgiven the thought of my heart.
Though often impatient and prone to complain,
Much love in this chastening 1 plainly perceive.
Our Father afflicts not his children in vain:
1 believe, 1 believe.
This body so wasted by ling'ring disease,
That scarce to the worms it can furnish a meal,
Insatiate death as a trophy may seize,
And in me the sad fruits of transgression reveal :
But must I for ever continue his prey ?
No, Jesus my dust from his grasp shall retrieve ;
The call to arise "I shall gladly obey:
I believe, I believe,
I know, on this earth my Redeemer shall stand,
And these eyes, though now dim, shall his glories behold ;
My powers so reduced shall with knowledge expand,
And this heart throb with rapture, which now beats so
cold :
His voice I shall hear, and in accents divine,
ShaU I, then made worthy, a welcome receive;
In his presence to dwell 'twill for ever be mine :
I believe, I believe.
Z
352 THE HARP OF PITCAIRN.
This then is my hope ; and I am not deceived,
On the word of my God I can fully depend: v
1 know by the Spirit, on whom I've believed,
That fle will support and console to the end ;
Immanuel's death hath Jehovah appeased ;
That death on the cross did my ransom achieve ;
That death is my passport when I am. released :
I believe, 1 believe ; yes, I firmly believe.
POLLY, the wife of GEORGE ADAMS, departed
this life December 17th, 1843, aged 48 years.
I have merely verified part of the foregoing
conversation. It is in sum and substance a
reply to an inquiry made by me concerning her
state of mind in the prospect of death, which
was then rapidly approaching* Assuredly, her
end was peace.
GEORGE H. NOBBS,
Pastor and Schoolmaster.
FENUA MAITAL
AMONGST the original poems composed on the
island, is a singularly wild effusion, described as
having been " sung on the sixtieth anniversary
of the foundation of the colony/' In this poem
reference is made to local names and circum-
stances, conveyed partly in Otaheitan forms of
thought and language, such as can be thoroughly
understood only by the islanders themselves.
" Feniia Maitai," with which each stanza con-
cludes, are Otaheitan words, and mean, THE
GOOD LAND.
THE HARP OF PITCATRN. 353
>
1.
PITCAIRN, I love tliee, though, lone 'midst the ocean,
Thou standest exposed to the tempest and storm,
Though thy shore, ever white with the surf's rude corn-
motion,
Rugged lava and wide-yawning chasms deform ;
Yet oft, Amongst those chasms, with joy have I rambled,
In the "Pools" down " the Rocks,"' and down "Isaac,"
have gambol? d,
Or have join'd my companions, by moonlight assembled,
To sing forth thy praises, FENUA MAITAI !
2.
Though discord and strife mark'd the dawn of existence,
Nor yet were the days of our children more bright,
And, but for the efforts of female assistance,
The black man had surely o'erpowered the white.
But why harrow up recollections of sorrow ?
From the past for the future a lesson we'll take ;
And draw a close veil o'er those dread scenes of horror,
When blood stain'd thy valleys, FENDA MAITAI !
3.
To happier moments now memory turning,
When Youth, Hope, and Love gave to Fancy full scope,
I have climb'd the rude cliffs at the first break of morning,
To see the sun rise from " the ridge of the Rope : "
Or down " T'other side," with his last ray ascending,
Over mountain and valley, in one glory blending,
My rapturous gaze o'er the prospect extending,
I have fancied thee " Eden," FENUA MAITAI !
^ 4.
By torch-light the haunts of the white bird exploring,
Perch'd high on the " big tree's " aerial bridge,
How quick beat each heart, as the death-wail came soaring,
From the ghost that still lingers on " Talaloo's ridge !"*
' V- 9 '
Talaloo, an Otaheitan, who landed with the mutineers
on the island, was barbarously murdered by his wife, and
one of his countrymen, Menalee. Menalee, who is mentioned
in the next stanza, was in his turn put to death by two of
the mutineers.
z 2
354 THE HARP OF PITCAIRN.
Or with arrow aud grains, on the calm nights of summer,
When the "Davy " recedes from the shores ot Tahtama,
The tribes of the ocean, allured by the lamma,
Are the meed of thy children, FENUA MAITAI !
5,
" Ship-landing ""St. Paul's"" Water-drop " " Vai-
bebea's "
" Eteaa " " Arlehow " " Menalee's-stone "
" Alah," where the lore of the Indian appears,
Memento of hordes, long extinct and unknown ;
Prom the heights of " Look-out," where the wild goats are
bounding,
To the coralline groves where the tf Toaw " is sounding,
Sweet Rosebud of Ocean, FENDA MAITAI !
6.
Our sires to their mem'ry this day is devoted;
Our friends may they prosper in every land ;
Ourselves may our blessings be gratefully noted,
Our errors deplored, and Religion expand !
May the flag of old England for ages wave o'er us !
Be Victoria our Queen ! May our Queen be victorious*
And this Rock of the West oft resound with the chorus.
" Pitarnia hinaaro, FENDA MAITAI !"
NATIONAL SONG.
A ir " ROUSSEAU'S DREAM."
1.
MID the mightv Southern Ocean
Stands an isolated rock,
Whiten'd by the surf's commotion,
Riven by" the lightning's shock,
2.
Hark ! those strains to heaven ascending,
From yon slopes of vivid green ;
Old and young their voices Blending,
God preserve Britannia's Queen !
THE HARP OF PITCAIRN-
3.
Ha ! that flash yon grove illuming,.
Long impervious to the sun ;
Now the quick report comes booming
From the ocean-rescued gun.
4.
List ! the bell is gaily ringing,
Where a white-robed * train is seen /
Now they all unite in singing
God preserve our gracious Queen !
SONG OE THE PITCAIRN ISLANDERS,
ON THE ANNIVERSARY OF THE BIRTHDAY OF QUEEN
VICTORIA.
1.
THE Queen ! the Queen ! our gracious Queen !
Come raise on high your voices,
And let it by your smiles be seen,
That every heart rejoices.
Her natal day we'll celebrate
With ardour and devotion,
And Britain's festal emulate
In the Pacific Ocean,
Now let old England's flag be spread,
That flag long famed in story ;
And, as it waves above our head,
We'll think upon its glory.
Then fire the gun, the Bounty's gun,
And set the bell a-ringing,
And then, with hearts and voices one,
We'll all unite in singing :
In allusion to the Tappa-cloth dresses.
356 THE HARP OF PITCAIRN.
3,
The Queen ! the Queen ! God bless the Queen !
And all her royal kindred ;
Prolong' d and happy be her reign,
By faction never hindered.
May high and4ow, the rich and poor,
The happy or distressed,
O'er her wide realm, from shore to shore,
Arise and call her blessed.
4.
Our friends, and oh ! they love us well,
Unnumber'd favours say so ;
Our hearts are with them where they dwell,
And first in Valparaiso ;
New Zealand, Sydney, Hobart Town,
And those upon their journey,
With many more already down
In golden Californy.
5.
We've pass'd o'er some whom we respect,
Of varied name and nation,
But not from coldness or neglect,
Or want of inclination.
God bless them- all, wherever seen,
On ocean or on dry land.
Now give three cheers for Britain's Queen,
And three for Piteairn's Island.
THE CORAL ISLES. 357
THE CORAL ISLES.
1.
THE Coralline Isles in the deep blue sea
At daybreak how beauteous to look upon !
As over the reef the surge rolls free,
Like a circlet of pearls round an emerald stone.
And giant forms of rocks and trees l
Burst through the veil of mist and spume
And oft the fitful fresh'ning breeze
Comes redolent of rich perfume. 2
And the man-of-war Hawk, and the Tropic Bird,
Sweep over the track where the dolphin shines, 3
And the plaintive voice of the dove is heard
In the evergreen groves of the Corallines.
2.
The Coralline Isles in the troublous sea
At noontide are awful to gaze upon ;
When the tempest louring fearfully
Environ the sea with a lurid zone.
And the waterspout and the whirlwind urge
Their devious way through sea and air,
And the cachalots huge from the deep emerge,
Attracted by the lightning's glare. 4
And the man-of-war Hawk, and the Tropic Bird,
ImpelTd by fear, disgorge their spoils, 5
And the curlew's piercing wail is heard
And danger is rife round the Coral Isles.
NOTES BY THE AUTHOR REV. Q. H. NOBBS.
(1) A thin mist or haze greatly magnifies the appearance of rocks or
trees ; this is especially the case among the low islands in the Pacific.
(2) At early morning, the wind, when blowing from the land, brings
with it a gush of pleasant odours.
(3) These birds are constantly on the watch for the dolphin, whose
presence is betrayed by his flashing scales ; and the agile birds pounce
upon the flying fish, of which he is in chase.
(4) A singular phenomenon sometimes attending these squalls is the
sudden appearance of the spermaceti whales, beating the water furiously
with their tails.
(5) So alarmed do these birds become, either from the intense glare of
the lightning, or the astounding crash of the thunder, that they eject
from their gullets the fish they had swallowed
358 THE CORAL ISLES.
3.
The Coralline Isles in the glittering sea
At evening are glorious to muse upon,
As Sol's last ray to lake and tree
Imparts the hues of the topaz stone ;
And the crested surge in triple row
Bounds over the reel with deafening roar,
And the vivid tints of the Covenant Bow
With mosaic decks the blanched shore,
And the man-of-war Hawk, and the Tropic Bird
Speed homeward, rang'd in length' ning files ;
For the cry of their callow brood is heard
From their grassy beds on the Coral Isles.
4.
The Coralline Isles in the tremulous sea
At midnight are lovely to look upon,
As the moon from her zenith beams splendidly
O'er the Parian strand, and the smooth lagoon.
And he who adventures to sojourn there,
Amid scenes so strange, so beautiful.
Might fancy he breath' d enchanted air, 1
Where gnomes preside and genii rule.
For the man-of-war Hawk, and the Tropic Bird
Seem petrified by magic wiles,
And nought but the Tupa's click is heard,
Whose myriads traverse the Coral Isles.
5.
The Coralline realms in the deep blue sea
Are wonderful to gaze upon,
For the latent powers of Deity
Are there in rich profusion shown ;
Parterres that storms can ne'er disturb,
Nor winter's frigid hand undress ;
Pillars and pyramids superb,
And vestibules of palaces.
Oh, let the ingrate atheist come ;
See and confess a power Divine ;
And then refer the clique at home
To the gorgeous fane of the Coralline. G. H. N.
(1) " I remember/ says the author of the Coral Isles, " passing anight
on one of these islands. I 'became so captivated with the lovely scene
that sleep did not approach my eyelids the whole of that night."
VESSELS WHICH HAVE TOUCHED AT PITCAIRN. 359
The vessels mentioned in this work, which
have touched at Pitcairn's Island, between 1808
and 1856 inclusive, are as follow:
VESSEL. CAPTAIN. DATE. PAGE
Topaz . . . . . Polger - ...... 1808 103
H.M.S. Briton . / Sir T. Staines . . . 1814 127
H.M.S. Tagus . . Pipon ...... 1814 127
Sultan . . . . . Reynolds ..... 1817 260
Hercules .... Henderson . . . . 1819 122
H.M.S. Blossom . . : Beechey . . . . . 1825 135
Lovely . . .'".'. Blythe . . . . . .' 1826 261
H.M.S. Seringapatam Waldegrave . . . . 1830 139
Lucy Anne ... J. Currey . . . .' . 1831 141
Bordeaux Packet . - . . .= . . 1831 262
H.M.S. Comet . . Sandilands ..... 1831 141
H.M S. Challenger . Fremantle ..... 1833 145
H.M.S. ActEeon . . Lord E. B-ussell . . . 1837 179
H.M.S Imogene . , H.W.Bruce. . , . 1837 179
H.M.S. Fly ... E. Elliott ..... 1838 262
H.M.S. Sparrowhawk Shepherd ..... 1839 262
H.M.S. Curayoa . . Jenkin Jones . . . . 1841 160
Cyrus ..... J. Hall. ..... 1823 202
America .... ...... 1843 263
H.M.S. Talbot . . Sir T. Thompson, Bart. 1843 263
H.M.S. Basilisk . ." H. Hunt ..... 1844 263
266
H.M.S. Pandora . . T. Wood ..... 1849 156
H.M.S. Daphne . , Fanshawe . . . . . 1849 268
Fanny ..... Leathart ..... 1849 151
Noble I-..-"... Parker . ..... 1850 167
Colonist . , . . . Marshall ..... 1850 168
I.M.S. Cockatrice . Dillon . , , . . . 1851 191
360
SIGNALS FOR LANDING.
VESSEL.
CAPTAIN. DATE. PAGE
Joseph
Meigs .
, . . . 1851 273
Sharon
18^1 9*71
Balaena
18
^9! 971
H.M.S.
Daedalus . .
Wellesley 1852 975
H.M.S.
Portland
1 8
Vice-Ad.Moresby, K.C.B.
1 8
5-2 205
53 228
Adeline Gibbs
Weeks 1859 97
H.M.S.
Virago . .
Prevost. ..... 18
53 107
149
H.M.S.
Dido . . .
Morshead. . j 3833 18
(1856 323
H.M.S. Juno . . .
Fremantle .... 1855 317
Amphitrite . . .
. . 1855 322
Matthew Luce . .
Coon ...... '1855 322
Southern Cross . .
M c Arthur 1855 392
Morayshire
Mathers 1856 381
Upwards of 350 vessels have touched at
Pitcairn between 1808, and the memorable year
1856, the year of the people's departure.
The following Signals were established by
Admiral Moresby, and agreed upon in 1853 :
A PLAIN WHITE FLAG will be hoisted when it is possible to
communicate from Bounty Bay.
A PLAIN WHITE FLAG OVER A BED ENSIGN, OT over any
other flag, will ~be hoisted, when it is impossible to communicate
from Bounty Bay.
, A RED ENSIGN, or any other flag over a plain white flag, will
be hoisted when it is impossible to communicate from Bounty
Bay, but possible from the lee-side of the Island.-
PITCAIRN A WILDERNESS. 361
Thus far of Pitcairn. In preparing the eleventh
edition of this book, the author observed, that
of Pitcairn' s Island the reader might then take
leave ; one of the fairest spots in the world
having become a wilderness, and left in sole
possession of a few head of cattle,
" Whose right there was none to dispute."
The view of Pitcairn appeared to have dissolved,
and passed away; and it was added, with reference
to the settlement of the people on Norfolk Island,
66 The remaining portions of our history will give
further intelligence of the community, and unfold
the new and strange, but not unpleasing scenes,
which have opened before them."
Strange to say, however, more will yet remain
to be said of Pitcairn, as a place for the residence
of human beings; two families, consisting, in the
whole, of sixteen persons, having sailed thither,
from Norfolk Island, in December, 1858, with
the object of re-inhabiting their old home.
The reader's attention is now called to a short
notice of the original settlement, and present
condition of Norfolk Island.
CHAPTER XIII.
DEPARTURE OF THE PITCAIRN COMMUNITY FROM PITCAIRN
TO NORFOLK ISLAND NORFOLK ISLAND; ITS ORIGINAL
SETTLEMENT, AND SUBSEQUENT OCCUPATION VISIT OP
BISHOP BROUGHTON CAPTAIN DENHAM's DESPATCH
LETTERS FROM ARTHUR QUINTAL AND REV. G. H. NOBBS
SIR WM. DENISON'S COMMUNICATION EXPENSE OF REMOVAL
ACCOUNTS FROM HOBART TOWN.
EARLY in the year 1857 the friends of the
Pitcairn community received intelligence of the
change which had taken place in the circum-
stances of the islanders. Silence and solitude
had resumed their reign at Pitcairn. The Chap-
lain and his wife had paid their last visit to
the grave of their beloved Keuben. The in-
habitants, from the oldest man and woman,
down to the infant of a few months, had quitted
the memorable spot, as it seemed, for ever, and
embarked in the Moray sliire on their perilous
voyage of between three and four thousand
miles. Nay, more, they had arrived at the
beautiful and fertile island, generously bestowed
upon them by the kindness and consideration of
Her Majesty's Government.
Norfolk Island, lying in the Southern Pacific,
GOVERNORS PHILLIP AND KING, 363
In latitude 29 3' 45" South, and longitude 167
58' 6" East from London, was discovered, by
Captain Cook, October 10, 1774, and named by
him from the noble family which bears the title
of Norfolk. It is about 600 miles from New
Zealand, and about 900 from Sydney. It appears
to have been formed by the eruption of volcanic
matter from the bed of the sea ; and is estimated
to contain about 10,000 acres.
It was not until nearly fourteen years after
the discovery of Norfolk Island that steps were
taken by the Government for the occupation of
the place, which had remained entirely unin-
habited. On the 14th February, 1788, a few
settlers, consisting of a small number of marines
and convicts, and two agricultural labourers,
were sent thither by Governor Phillip, under the
command of Lieutenant P. G. King.
By the year 1790, a great increase had taken
place in the number of convicts, and there were
then upwards of 500 persons on the island.
In September, 1800, Lieutenant King became
Governor of New South Wales, on the retire-
ment of Captain Hunter, who had been
Governor for five years. Not long after quitting
Norfolk Island, Governor King recommended
its entire abandonment. Many hundreds of
acres of land had at that time been brought
into cultivation; and several costly buildings,,
belonging both to Government and private in-
dividuals, had been erected. There was a
population of a thousand souls ; and the quan-
tity of cattle, pigs, poultry, and goats was
abundant.
364 GOVERNORS BLIGH AND BRISBANE.
The execution of the task which had been
recommended by King, and which entailed
an amazing sacrifice of property, devolved
upon one whose name has often been men-
tioned in this work, especially in its earlier
pages. Captain Bligh of the Bounty had been
appointed Governor of New South Wales in
1805 ; and in December, 1806, William Wind-
ham, Esq., then Secretary of State for the
Colonies, despatched to Governor Bligh direc-
tions for the entire evacuation of Norfolk Island.
I The reasons alleged for this measure were the
vast expense of maintaining the settlement , the
difficulty of keeping up a communication between
it and Port Jackson ; the danger attending an
approach to an island without a port secure from
tempests, and even without a road in which
ships could safely anchor. Many of the con-
victs were removed, against their own wishes,
to Port Dalrymple, and other places in Van
Diemen's Land ; but the entire removal of pri-
soners did not take place until the year 1807.
) About eighteen years after this, another
change came over the destiny of Norfolk Island.
In 1825, during the government of Sir Thomas
Brisbane, the island was again constituted a
penal settlement; and, in June the same year, it
was occupied by Captain Turton, with fifty sol-
diers, and about the same number of prisoners.
For several subsequent years the horrors of the
place, owing to the frightfully vicious condi-
tion of the convicts, became proverbial. In
1839, there were upwards of seven hundred
prisoners.
BISHOP BKOUGHTON'S VISIT. 365
The services of the late excellent Dr. Brough-
ton, Bishop of Sydney, and the regard which
he felt for the Pitcairn community, have been
noticed in the Ninth Chapter of this book.
It is an interesting fact in the history of
his life, that Norfolk Island, when a very dif-
ferent race from its present occupants inhabited
the place, was visited by the Bishop ; and that
some of the then dwellers in that dreary abode
of wrath and punishment were the special ob-
jects of his pastoral care. An affecting letter,
dated Mulgoa, New South Wales, 17th June,
1839, addressed to the Secretary of the Society
for Promoting Christian Knowledge, was read by
the author to the Board seventeen years ago :
" I am anxious to have an opportunity of
stating the satisfaction and thankfulness which
I experienced, during a visit, in the month of
January last, to the penal settlement of Norfolk
Island, to find in that dreary abode of wrath
and punishment, a striking practical testimony
afforded to the value of the Society's exertions.
Even among the outcast offenders who inhabit
that insulated spot, your Bibles, and Prayer-
books, and Manuals of Devotion, are among the
chief sources of comfort enjoyed by the otherwise
all but hopeless prisoner.
" I never before had so strongly conveyed to my
mind a sense of the diffusiveness of that bene-
volence which you, my dear Sir, on behalf of
the venerable Society, are so actively engaged in
extending, as when I beheld the eagerness with
which those books are sought, and the thankful-
ness with which they are received among more
366 BISHOP OF NEW ZEALAND'S VISIT,' '
than 700 criminals, who are there under the
spiritual charge of the Rev. Thomas Sharpe.
So extensive, indeed, have been the fruits of
his attention, that, under the Divine blessing,
and with thankfulness to the Society which
has so aided his exertions, I may express a
confident expectation of many hardened men
receiving the light of the truth, and being re-
covered to a reverence for it, to which, during
the previous portion of their lives, they had
been practically strangers.
" So far as it is granted me to judge of the
sincerity of man's intentions, I felt so confident
as to a considerable number presented and re-
commended to me by Mr. Sharpe, that, at their
humble and earnest desire, I admitted them to
the rite of Confirmation, the nature and design
of which had been, carefully explained to them.
And I afterwards received such of them as were
desirous to attend, at the administration of the
Sacrament of the Lord's Supper."
The Bishop of New Zealand, before his last
visit to England, touched at Norfolk Island, and
was much struck with the beauty of the place,
and its fine climate. The contrast of the ex-
ternal features of nature with the spirit of the
human population was powerfully portrayed by
him ; and he drew a lively comparison of what
the island was with what it might be, ci It
was designated," said one who lived there nearly
four years, " 4 the Ocean Hell/ I doubt not, but
eventually the presence of the Pitcairn people
will render it what nature intended it to be,
an earthly paradise." These words were used
CAPTAIN DENHAM, R.N. 367
before the project had been matured for convey-
ing this fine estate to the people of Pitcairn.
The reader who has accompanied the Pitcairn
community in the striking annals of their race,
as well as in the even progress of their own lives
and fortunes, will rejoice with them on their safe
landing at a new and suitable abode. He will
be enabled to discover, in the present stage of
their history, the footsteps of a gracious and
superintending Providence, and will share in
the thankful and happy feelings of those who
have been in any way concerned in this remark-
able event He will observe with pleasure the
Christian behaviour of the voyagers in their
strange and somewhat startling position. What
can be more touching, or (considering what
Captain Denham calls "the habitual piety" of
the new settlers) what more natural, than their
prompt and united act of Thanksgiving to their
Divine Preserver and Guide ?
The Islanders owe a debt of gratitude to
many distinguished naval officers, who, by pro-
fessional zeal and intelligence, as well as by
various friendly offices in behalf of the people,
have contributed largely to their welfare, A
recent communication made by Captain H. M.
Denham, R.N., who had the charge of the survey
of Norfolk Island, will speak volumes, both as to
his attention to the people, and their settled
sense of duty. The paper, which is also in-
teresting in a geographical point of view, was
dated on board H.M.S. Herald, Norfolk Island,
June 16, 1856. Proceeding towards Norfolk
Island, he had taken advantage of a calm
A A
368 SURVEY OF NORFOLK ISLAND.
afternoon on the 30th May ; and when 1 62
miles N. 65 30' E. from Lord Howe Island,
and 322 miles S. 75 30' W. from Norfolk
Island, had struck soundings in 919 fathoms.
Whilst obtaining these soundings, he was
assailed by a westerly gale, which, lasting for
eight-and-forty hours, was at its height on
Sunday, June 1st ; and it became imprudent,
to let the ship run, until the gale broke.
On the morning of the 3d June, having
arranged with Lieut. John Hutchison and Mr.
J. W. Smith, assistant surveyors, in regard to
completing the survey of the island and its
islets, together with lines of soundings to the
edge of the bank upon its surrounding aspects,
he effected a landing. He landed, the Sappers,
whom, at the instance of the Governor-General,
Sir Wm. Denison, he had brought from Sydney,
to make a topographical survey of Norfolk
Island, with reference to the future allotting
and occupation of the island by the Pitcairners.
He also landed the Herald's carpenters, to cut
down and trim pine-trees out of the abundant
plantations of the remarkable Norfolk Island
pine, in order to profit by so economical an op-
portunity of providing Her Majesty's ship with
a set of spare topmasts ; a selection of boat-
knees and frame timber was also made, and the
commissary officer Mr. Stewart, in charge of the
island, promptly caused the ship to be supplied
with fresh beef, in accordance with Sir William
Denison's considerate views, which enabled
Captain Denham to render it a gratuitous issue
to the wliole of the crew.
ARRIVAL OF THE COMMUNITY. 369
Captain Denham had now daily reason to ex-
pect the arrival of the Moray shire with the Pit-
cairn community on board. " And," he added,
" as the presence of one of Her Majesty's ships
at the new home of that interesting people would
doubtless cheer them, as well as afford them
essential aid in landing and organizing, on the
one hand, whilst, as simultaneously as possible,
clearing the island of its residue as a penal settle-
ment, I became solicitous of being on the spot.
I therefore had only to hope that the transport
would arrive before my primary object in taking
Norfolk Island en route to the Polynesian Islands
could be accomplished.
Fortunately, on Sunday the 8th instant,
although a gloomy and rather boisterous day,
with considerable surf, the Moray shire not only
closed with the island, but, being joined by the
Herald, and assisted by a tracing of our survey,
she took up a favourable position for disembar-
cation ; . and by sunset the Pitcairn community,
numbering 194 persons, were comfortably
housed, as well as landed, without accident. I
was invited to their first evening Church service
at their new home, when a special thanksgiving
was rendered unto God for the preservation
vouchsafed, and His guidance implored in the
new era they had just entered upon. It was an
exemplary manifestation of habitual piety that
woiild not allow fatigue, amounting with many
to almost exhaustion, nor that excitement in the
robust at the extreme novelty of matters around
them, to interfere with their wonted primary
duty in life. On the contrary, these artless, sel-
A A 2
370 MATHERS AND GHEGORIE.
denying people seemed to gather physical com-
fort and energy as they responded to our
^ beautiful Church service, rendered the more
touchingly so by their admirable chanting.
And they listened patiently and devoutly to the
well -adapted exhortation of their revered pastor
and counsellor, the Rev. George Hunu Nobbs.
This gentleman could not rest until he had
expressed to me the pervading gratitude which
the arrangement for the transit and reception of
his flock had excited."
Captain Denham then adverted to the admi-
rable manner in which acting Lieut. Gregorie
managed their embarcation, so that every mov-
able article, " even to the Gun and Anvil of the
.Bounty" had been transferred. He described the
friendly zeal with which Captain Mathers, the
master of the transport, followed out his under-
taking on a five weeks' passage; the tender
treatment of alarming cases of sea-sickness,
which ceased not from inland to island ; the
birth which took place during the voyage ; and
finally, the joyful sight of one of the Queen's
ships, in whose boats the people were landed.
Captain Denham, with the commissariat officer,
greeted them individually, as they* set foot on
shore, and conducted them to their comfortable
quarters, on Norfolk Island.
" The following week," said he, " was success-
fully employed in landing all the seventy years'
gathering of chattels belonging to the Pitcairners,
notwithstanding the precarious sea-board of this
island causing the ships to put to sea every
night. They could, therefore, duly observe
MACDONALD AND WILSON, 371
yesterday's Sabbath in the first fitted-up church
they had seen. In this the Sacrament of the
Lord's Supper was most impressively adminis-
tered to us, together with every adult of the
new congregation a privilege I can never for-
get. This Sabbath was marked by another
solemnity, our attendance upon which assuaged
the general depression which their first mourn-
ing visit to the cemetery was calculated to inflict ;
it being their custom for the whole of the com-
munity to attend each funeral. In the present
case, it was to inter a female infant, who had
been embarked in a most delicate state, but had
survived the voyage, though beyond medical
relief when placed under the care of one of my
medical officers, Mr. Denis Macdonald.
ft " Mr. Macdonald has, with his characteristic
kindness, attended to some cases of illness con-
sequent on so great a change of life, and has
instructed the islanders essentially in the re-
sources of the ample dispensary for their use.
Our artificers have imparted to these naturally
apt people the uses of the variety of tools and
implements, including the wind and water mills
on the island. Indeed it has been a week of ini-
tiation ; and amongst the novelties, the operation
of the photograph, with which our zealous artist,
Mr. Glen Wilson, has been taking likenesses
to forward to England, has not failed to excite
their attention, delight, and wonder.*
* These likenesses consist of a group of the Rev. G. H.
Nobbs, his wife, (daughter of Fletcher Christian of the
Bounty,} and two daughters ; a group of Rebecca and Rachel
Evans; and three sisters, Ellen Quintal, Mana Christian,
and Sarah M'Coy e
372 POPULATION AND STOCK.
" The first step for future provision has teen
taken by planting their esteemed sweet potato.
Pending harvest time, which they give six
months to come about, I leave this community
of 193 persons, comprising 40 men, 47 women,
54 boys, and 52 girls, provided with 45,500 Ibs.
of biscuit, flour, maize, and rice, with groceries
in proportion, and abundance of milk at their
hand. Their live stock and fodder consists of
1,300 sheep, 430 cattle, 22 horses, 10 swine in
sties, 16 domestic fowls, 16,000 Ibs. hay, 5,000
Ibs. straw, and a quantity of wild pigs and
fowls. Lest, however, the first crop should be
retarded or fall short, I have submitted a list of
supplies which the Governor-General will for-
ward to these islanders as an extent-in-aid."
Every reader must be struck with the fore-
thought and delicacy, as well as energy, shown
in this transaction by all concerned in it.
Reverting to Pitcairn's Island, Captain Den-
ham added, that future voyagers might find
fresh beef there, as some cattle had been left
upon it. A few sheep, with several goats and
fowls, were also left at Pitcairn. The pigs were
destroyed, lest they should break through the
fence, and disturb the graveyard.
During the voyage from Pitcairn to Norfolk
Island, one of the senior members of the com-
munity, Arthur Quintal, wrote thus to his excel-
lent friend Admiral Moresby :
" At Sea," May 14th, 1856.
" MY DEAR FRIEND,
" You may easily guess, from the date of my
letter, where I am bound to. I am on board an
ARTHUR QUINTAL'S LETTER. 373
English emigrant ship, bound to Norfolk Island,
with all the rest of my fellow-countrymen. We
left our own dear little island on the 2d of May,
and are now about half-way on our passage.
We have had a fine run, with strong easterly
winds, until the 9th, when the wind shifted
ahead, and has continued baffling ever since.
Our people mostly were dreadfully sick for the
first three or four days ; but, by the blessing of
God, they have nearly all recovered. Two or
three are still very sick ; but as the weather is
fine, I think, in a day or two, they will quite
recover.
"This ship is called the Moray shire, and a
fine ship she is, of 850 tons burden; she has
ample accommodation for all of us. and I have
no doubt you will be pleased to learn that, from
the captain and officers, and, in fact, all the
ship's company, we have received the utmost
kindness and attention. Still, at times, we have
been shocked to hear their awful profanation of
God's holy name.
66 The emigration is conducted by acting Lieu-
tenant Gregorie, of H.M.S. Juno, whose untiring
kindness and strict attention to our wants have
greatly endeared him to us. He is indefatigable
in his exertions to promote our welfare ; he has
been twice at Norfolk Island, and is well ac-
quainted with the place and its capabilities ;
and, according to his account, it is all we could
wish.
"Please to receive my sincere congratula-
tions for the honour recently conferred upon you
by our most gracious Sovereign; I am sure it
374 REV. G. H. NOBBS'S LETTER.
is not undeserved; and, to use the words of our
people, when they first heard of it, 'it ought to
have been done long ago.'*
" Our worthy friend, Captain Morshead, was
at Pitcairri a few days before we left ; and right
glad we were to welcome such a tried friend to
our little island again. We have seen, by the
Navy List, that our dear friends of the Portland
are dispersed all over the world ; but we have
bright recollections of all of them ; and to such
of them as are still near, we beg you to remem-
ber us kindly. Your ever grateful friend,
"ARTHUR QUINTAL."
The Eev. G. H. Nobbs, on the 17th July,
1856, soon after his arrival at Norfolk Island,
wrote thus to the author :
"I sent you a few lines by H.M.S. Dido,
from Pitcairn's, intending to follow it up by
a longer letter. But quite unexpectedly the
ship for removing us to Norfolk Island arrived ;
and we immediately commenced preparation for
the removal.
>. "I am not now going to enter into particulars,
for I am too busily engaged to analyse my
thoughts of the past, or my hopes for the future.
Suffice it to say, that by the permission of
Almighty God, we arrived at this place, June
8th, after a passage of thirty-five days, and were
* Rear- Admiral Moresby, C.B., the Pitcairners' warm and
constant friend, had received the honour of knighthood. He
has since been promoted to the rank of Vice- Admiral.
REV. G. H. NOBBS'S LETTER. 375
landed in tolerably good health, with an increase
of one, who was baptized on board the ship.
" We fortunately found H.M.S. Herald here ;
and her boats gave us great assistance in land-
ing. Captain Denham, notwithstanding the
rain which occasionally fell, stood on the mole,
and heartily welcomed us to our new home.
You cannot imagine, much less can I describe
(though I think at some time I shall attempt it),
our feelings on landing in a place, morally and
physically so entirely different from Pitcaira's.
We were both gratified and disappointed ; but
I think the causes for the latter feeling will gra-
dually wear off. The Colonial Government of
New South Wales have victualled us for six
months ; but there is not a vegetable to be had,
nor will there be for months to come ; and I am
very fearful that our present unusual diet may
induce dysentery. Captain Denham has written
to the Governor-General, requesting him to send
a large supply of Irish potatoes for food and
seed ; and also for some rice and peas, which I
trust will be quickly sent to us.
"We have but little sickness among us at
present, although we have already had one
death that of an infant of five months, Phoebe
A lams, who was very unwell when we left
Pitcairn's. There was no doctor on board the
ship ; consequently all the medical duties de-
volved on myself. These, I can assure you,
were very arduous ; for never did people suffer
so much from sea-sickness as this community.
"Many were sick during the whole passage, and
four or five were alarmingly so, insomuch that I
376 KEV. G. H. NOBL3'S LETTER.
feared for their lives ; but it pleased oar hea-
venly Father to spare them. The commander
of the ship was most kind and attentive, and the
ship was most comfortably fitted up ; in short,
we were well cared for on board the Moray shire.
" We are just now getting the houses, stores,
cattle, &c. &c., transferred to us; which seems
to be a work of time and routine. Some of our
people are getting lessons in ploughing, sheep-
shearing, milking, and corn-grinding; so that
we are all very busy. The weather is so unfa-
vourable that we have not yet got all our effects
on shore, although every exertion has been made
under the superintendence of acting Lieutenant
Grcgorie, of H. M.S. Juno.
" Last Sabbath was a day which will long be
remembered by us ; it was our first meeting in
the church for "public, worship. After the morn-
ing service I administered the Holy Communion,
and in the evening committed to the earth a
premature ear from our gradually ripening sheaf.
Think of us in the church which had formerly
been filled with the vilest outcasts of society;
and then imagine us in the graveyard, filled
\rith the mounds which contained hundreds of
their bodies ; and I am sure that you yri\\ enter
largely into, and partake of, the intense grati-
tude, joy, grief, and (I had almost /Said) terror,
which pervaded our miiuky
" I should like to su}<4jlpre jJ^ut I am so fully
employed all the day, an3 I carnnot see to write
by night ; so that, assuring y^a I will write
more fully whenever I can do so, I shall end by
wishing all whom you love, that best of all
GOVERNOR DENISON'S LETTER. 377
possible portions, ' The grace of our Lord Jesus
Christ, and the love of God, and the fellowship
of the Holy Ghost.' Amen.
" P. S. The Bishop of New Zealand was here
about a fortnight before our arrival, and left
word that he should return in about a month."
The following is an extract from a letter
written to the author by Sir Win. Denison, Go-
vernor of New South Wales, who has through-
out shown a sincere regard for the Pitcairn
Islanders and done them good service:
<( Government House, Sydney, July 14, 1856.
" I have to acknowledge the receipt of your
letter, and to thank you for your book, giving
an account of the people of Pit cairn's Island.
They are now about to become inhabitants of a
richer spot, and one which will, I hope, prove
equally congenial to their moral condition. I
take, I assure you, a great interest in their wel-
fare, and have done my best in the arrange-
.ments w r hich I have made for their settlement
at Norfolk Island, to secure a continuance of
their present system and habits, so far as these
are compatible with the change of place and
circumstances.
"It is by no means improbable that I shall
visit the island myself, in the course of a few
months. I would point out to you, however,
that from henceforward the islanders will not
require any charitable assistance. They are
now occupants of a most fertile island, with
stock of all kinds, with tools and appliances for
all their immediate wants."
378 COST OF REMOVAL.
In relating the chief particulars of one of the
most extraordinary cases of emigration on record,
the author has thought it best to quote the very
words of those who have taken leading parts
in the events described. The opportunity of
reference to these documents may one day prove
of greater value than is at present apparent.
The following is an -estimate of the amount
required to defray the expense of the removal
from Pitcairn to Norfolk Island :
Freight and provisions to Norfolk Island. . . 4,480
Stores for use of the settlers on their first arrival 900
Contingencies 200
5,580
The Hobart Town Daily Advertiser, of July
28, 1856, contained the following notice :
" The Moray shire, Captain Mathers, left Sydney
on the 23d of last February, for the purpose of'
proceeding to Pitcairn's Island, to remove the
interesting community of that place to Norfolk
Island. Captain Mathers reached Pitcairn's
Island on the 22d of April, and sailed thence
for Norfolk Island on the 3d of May, having
taken on board, in the mean time, the whole
population of the island, consisting of 194 souls,
viz. 40 adult males, 47 adult females, 54 boys,
and 53 girls, together with the whole of their
goods and cnattels. The vessel arrived with
her interesting freight at Norfolk Island on the
8th of June, all well. On the voyage from
Pitcairn's to Norfolk Island there was one birth,
a "boy, who was named Reuben Denison, after
ACCOUNTS FROM HOBART TOWN. 379
his Excellency Sir W. Denison, the Governor of
New South Wales, who has taken the greatest
interest in the removal of these interesting-
people, and who has done all in his power to
provide for their subsistence, and to make them
comfortable on taking possession of their new
island home. Large quantities of cured beef,
maize, vegetables, clothing, &c., have been
forwarded by the Sydney Government in the
Moray shire for their use. Independently of such
supplies, a large quantity of Indian corn, the
growth of the island, has been left for their con-
sumption ; also 2,000 sheep, and 450 head of
cattle, as well as some 500 pigs. Twenty horses
have been left on the island. \
" The Rev. G. H. Nobbs, the respected pastor
and surgeon of the Pitcairners, accompanied
them, and, during the passage from Pitcairn to
Norfolk Island, he had his hands full in both
capacities ; all the islanders having been severe
sufferers from sea-sickness.
" Captain Mathers speaks in the highest terms
of the untiring perseverance of Mr. Nobbs in
attending to his charge. But for his exertions,
the Captain is convinced many of the islanders
would have found a long home in the waters.
The Morayshire] on her passage from Pitcairn's
to Norfolk Island, encountered very severe wea-
ther. The first half of the passage occupied
only six days, while the latter half took twenty-
five days to accomplish.
" The attention which these people pay to
their religious duties is very exemplary, and
reflects great credit upon their pastor."
380 ENTIRE REMOVAL OF CONVICTS.
It appeared from this account that Field, an
old convict, who had remained in charge of the
cattle, &c. on Norfolk Island, had made himself
so useful as a shepherd, and teacher of farming,
that the islanders recommended him to the
Governor of Van Diemen's Land for this
purpose. They viewed Field as a reformed
man ; and their letter on the subject was of a
truly benevolent and Christian kind, though
perhaps wanting in that prudence and caution
so important in their peculiar position.
Field thus obtained a ticket of leave, and the
prospect of a conditional pardon ; he having
been under sentence for life for sheep-stealing.
On the sailing of the Moray slur e from Norfolk
Island, for Sydney, he was placed on board, and
was received at the Sydney convict-department,
with his provisional discharge about him.
After an investigation of the case, and during a
week's remand, an intimation was received from
Sir William Denison, that he could not permit
the man to be returned to Norfolk Island ; his
Excellency having resolved to allow no convicts
to be mixed up with the present inhabitants.
In accordance with the Governor's directions,
the sitting Magistrate at Sydney ordered Field
to be returned to Hobart Town, and then
handed over to the Comptroller-General of
convicts. In taking this discreet step, the
Governor said, that, for the object required by
the community, some steady married man,
with a family, might be induced to settle on the
island.
CHAPTEE XIV.
LETTER FROM THE REV. G. H. NOBBS RESPECTING THE VOYAGE
TO NORFOLK ISLAND, AND SETTLEMENT OF THE PITCAIRN
COMMUNITY THERE THE BISHOP OF NEW ZEALAND CON-
FIRMATION ADDRESS TO HER MAJESTY FROM THE PITCAIRN
FUND COMMITTEE VISIT OF SIR WM. DENISON PRESENT
STATE OF THE ISLANDERS THEIR PROSPECTS CONCLUSION.
THE Chaplain of Norfolk Island, in a letter to
the author, dated Sept. 24th, 1856, described,
with much minuteness and good feeling, the
occurrences of the voyage, and the occupation of
the place by its present settlers. A few por-
tions of this letter from the Island will present
to the reader's mind some striking events in
connexion with a most interesting era of the
history.
Monday ', April 21st. While busily employed
in the school this forenoon, a piercing and elec-
trifying shout apprised me that a ship was in
sight ; but it was a long time before any one
came from the hill to inform me what she looked
like, she being discovered from the south side
of the island. About three o'clock it was ascer-
tained that she was a large merchant ship
standing in for the land. At four she rounded
St. Paul's rock ; and then we perceived she had
a pennant flying. On this being made known,
some one exclaimed, " That is the ship come to
convey us to Norfolk Island, and the pennant
382 ARRIVAL OF THE MORAYSHIRE,
denotes she has a naval officer on board."
It was the Morayskire, Captain Mathers.
Having learned from the Dido, but little more
than a week since, that the ship for removing
us was not to be here before the latter end of
July, I could not believe this was the vessel,
until the ship's boat landed, bringing the com-
mander of the ship, and Lieutenant Gregorie
of the Juno, appointed to superintend the em-
barcation of all those who were disposed to
accept Her Majesty's most gracious offer ; to
wit, Norfolk Island and all that appertains
thereto, for themselves and families. Such an
unqualified offer of so beautiful a spot as Norfolk
Island is easier to imagine than realize; but it
is a bondjide reality to us.
Saturday, May 3d. Fine weather. Break-
fast eaten 'with heavy hearts. My family being
among those appointed to embark first, pre-
viously to doing so Mrs. Nobbs and myself went
into the graveyard, where are deposited the re-
mains of our first-born. Scarcely a word was
spoken by either one of us, but tears fell freely.
Why ? Not because we lamented the lot of a
saint in Christ, but because we were about to
leave the grave and head-stone, those frail me-
morials, which had become unspeakably dear to
us, never to behold them more. The reflections
caused our tears, and not an ungrateful repining
that our son was with the Lord. Vale, Reuben,
till this corruptible shall have put on incor-
ruption !
At Bounty Bay we rejoined those who were to
DEPARTURE FROM PITCA1RN. 383
embark in the same boat with us. Passing safely
through the surf, we commenced our departure.
After a short pull wo got on board the Moray*
shire, and were kindly received by her com-
mander. Now my vocation commenced in
reality. Scarcely had we reached the ship, when
women and children became sadly affected by
the motion, although it was very fine weather; so
placing them in the best positions, I hastened to
the berth deck and got the beds into their places.
But neither women nor children could remain in
the berths ; so we had to make a field bed on the
deck ; and as the boats came alongside and were
discharged we laid the sea-sick community side
by side, and did the best we could for their com-
fort. By four o'clock P.M. every person was on
board, without any accident occurring ; and the
ship made sail with a fair breeze.
In the dusk of the evening Pitcairn Island re-
ceded from view, There were very few of the late
inhabitants on deck to take a last long lingering
look at the much-loved and ever-to-be-remem-
bered spot; but very many men, women, and
children wished themselves on shore again ; for
so intensely were they suffering from nausea, that,
could they have regained the shore, they would
most assuredly have remained there, During
the whole night I was continually employed in
attempting to relieve their sufferings ; the few men
who were not sick had to nurse the infants, and
old Arthur Quintal, assisted occasionally by the
captain and Lieutenant Gregorie, was employed
in administering, under my direction, such re-
medies as seemed most appropriate. It was a
mees
384 FIRST SIGHT OF NORFOLK ISLAND,
comfortless and, to most of our people, a sleepless,
night. For several days did this state of things
continue ; at length some of the convalescents
began to appear on deck, which soon became
studded with smiling faces.
Friday, Jane 6th. Land ho ! I forgot to note
in the proper place that, shortly after leaving
Pitcairn, we changed the day of the week, that is,
we went forward a day ; so that that week had but
six days ; this was done to make our hebdomadal
calendar coincide with that of New South Wales.
Well, then, on Friday, according to the new ar-
rangement, we made Norfolk Island. But it was
a long way off. The wind not being fair, we
made but slow progress, and night closing in
upon us, hid the land from view. During the
night a very heavy squall struck the ship, and
caused some consternation among the more timid;
the lightning also was very vivid.
Saturday, June 1th. The land some twenty-
five miles distant ; the weather cloudy, with pass-
ing showers; a sail in shore at noon exchanged
signals with her. It is H.M.S. Herald, and is,
no doubt, engaged sounding round the island,
as^ \he occasionally hove to. For picturesque
beauty, Norfolk Island is not to be compared
with Pitcairn's. At sunset pretty handy to
Phillip's Island, which is some six miles from
Norfolk Island, which by way of eminence is
generally called the main land. Another night
must be passed on board, but in all probability
we shall land to-morrow. Squally weather
through the night ; and, being close to the shore,
it was a night of anxiety to most on board^and
LANDING AT NORFOLK ISLAND. 385
I suppose to none more so than our worthy and
indefatigable captain.
Sunday, June 8th. Cloudy weather ; close in
with Norfolk Island ; very much disappointed in
its appearance from the present point of view,
which is directly off the settlement, and presents
a succession of hillocks and shallow ravines co-
vered with short brown grass, but scarcely a tree
to be seen. No doubt other parts of the island
have a better appearance, but this side certainly
loses in the comparison with our ' Rock of the
West/ At eight o'clock the anchor was let
go, and preparations made for landing. The
Herald's boats also came to assist in landing the
community. At ten A.M. left with my family
and some others in the ship's life boat, but it
blew fresh, and we were nearly two hours getting
on shore, the wind being off the land ; during
our passage several squalls of rain occurred, and
the boat leaking badly, we were thoroughly
drenched, the women and children presenting a
most forlorn appearance. The landing was riot
bad ; and we had no difficulty in crossing the
reef, and running alongside the pier, steered by
one of our own people. We were kindly received
by Captain Denham, of the Herald, and Mr.
Stewart, the gentleman in charge of the govern-
ment establishment. Mrs. Stewart was also
there, ? notwithstanding the rain, and conducted
the females as they landed to the house prepared
for their reception, where a large fire was made
and hot tea ready; and greatly they needed these,
kind attentions, for they were so cramped by the
rain and the cold, that on landing many of them
BB2
#86 GENEKAL THANKSGIVING.
found it difficult at first to walk. However, a
cup of tea and a warm at the fire soon recovered
them. Being conducted by Mr. Stewart to his
residence, I deposited my wife there and then
returned to the pier.
By one o'clock all our people were landed,
without any accident occurring ; and the weather
clearing up, the boats returned for our bedding.
During the whole time of our debarcation Captain
Den ham remained on the pier, notwithstanding
the heavy rain, and welcomed our people as they
landed to their new home, and evinced the
greatest anxiety for their comfort.
Towards the close of this eventful day we all
assembled in a large upper room in the military
barracks, Captain Denham and most of the go-
vernment establishment being there also ; when
we solemnly and gratefully offered our thanks
and praises to our Triune God, for his continued
goodness and mercy in thus bringing us to our
future earthly home ; and I trust we were sincere
in imploring his watchful care that we swerve
not to the right hand nor the left. Soon after
dark we all retired to rest under the same roof;
and a quiet and comfortable night we passed.
Monday, 9th. Moderate weather. All hands
up early. After prayers, the men of our com-
munity prepared to go on board for our luggage.
Everything denotes that we are in a strange
country the size of the houses, their construc-
tion, and the great height of the rooms, the
number of cattle feeding quietly about, the oxen
yoked to the carts bringing our goods from the
pier to the place where we reside, this same
FIRST FUNERAL. 387
building three stories high, and each room
eighteen feet in height ; all and everything
astonished our people.
Sunday, 15th. For some days little has been
done towards landing anything, the Moray-
shire being obliged from bad weather to get
under weigh. Divine Service twice in the church,
which is much out of repair about the roof.
Administered the Holy Communion to fifty-eight
persons ; but the only persons not of our com-
munity were Captain Denham and Mr. Gregorie.
After service a melancholy duty called us to the
graveyard, which lay at some distance from the
village. Yesterday, somewhat suddenly, though
not unexpectedly, departed this life the infant
Phoebe Adams. This afternoon we committed the
mortal remains to its parent earth in that grave-
yard where stands the record of many whose
crimes had banished them from country and
friends, and also of others whom deeds of violence
and bloodshed after their arrival here had brought
to an untimely, and, it is to be feared, an un-
prepared end.
Sunday, 22d. Divine Service twice ; weather
moderate. At sunset a ship appeared in the
offing : she has the look of a ship of war ; in all
probability the Juno, which ship we are expect-
ing ; if so, Lieut. Gregorie's stay among us will
be short. We shall be sorry to lose him, for
he is quite a favourite with our people, and
deservedly so. Captain Mathers, of the Moray-
shire, spent the day on shore with us, his ship
standing off and on. Eight welcome is he to
our hospitality.
388 DEPARTURE OF THE MORAYSHIRE.
Monday, 23d. Moderate weather, but the
swell is heavy on the reef. One of the large*
"boats being left at anchor by the wharf got badly
injured by knocking her bottom on the rocks, so
that in all probability she will become a wreck.
This is unfortunate : however, we have still one
large boat left, but I trust she will be better
cared for than the other. Got some things on
shore to-day; the ship having been off here
fourteen days from the time of our landing, de-
murrage commences according to the tenor of
the charter. The Juno (for such the ship in
the offing yesterday proved to be) came to an
anchor at the Cascades, it being very smooth
there ; but Captain Fremantle did not land. I
presume his arrival will hasten the departure of
the Herald, whose stay here is principally to
see us settled properly and quietly in our new
abode, and to superintend the embarcation of
the Crown prisoners and certain stores. But the
Herald had not been idle; she has had con-
tinuous employment in sounding round the
island, and has obtained soundings at 150 miles'
distance, an anomalous case among islands in
these seas. Captain Denham has constructed a
beautiful chart of the island and its vicinity, a
manuscript copy of which we have obtained. '
Thursday, 26th. Early this morning Cap-
tain Mathers embarked. The Moray shire got
under weigh, and proceeded for Van Diemen's
Land. God preserve those on board ! At four
P.M. Captain Denham embarked, and soon after
the Herald made sail. The Juno also got
up her anchor, but is not yet going to leave us.
BISHOP OF NEW ZEALAND'S VISIT. 389
Saturday, 2Sth. The Juno boats landed,
and got off such things as are wanted ; her ship's
company kindly sent us some bags of bread,
and we in return sent them some fresh beef.
Captain Fremantle wrote a letter to the magis-
trate, but did not land himself. At five o'clock
Mr. Gregorie went on board to resume his duties
there; and the Juno made sail on her cruise.;
Now we are all alone, humanly speaking; yet'
there is One in the midst of us who watcheth 1
over us by night and day.
Sunday, 29th. Rainy weather ; Divine Ser-
vice twice. The roof of the church is leaky ; and
my surplice is no protection. I fear we shall
have to abandon the church, and use one of the
large rooms in the barracks (which is almost the
only building in repair) in its stead.
Monday. Some are employed tending sheep,
some driving in the cattle, and two or three at
the windmill grinding maize ; and it is really
wonderful with what facility our people compre-
hend the details of these complicated employ-
ments,
Friday, July th. This morning a sail was
descried at no great distance ; by her rig we were
at no great loss to understand whom she had on
board, for we had learned that the Bishop of New
Zealand had touched here a short time previous
to our arrival, and that his Lordship intended to
go to Sydney, and then return hither. As soon
as she approached near enough, our whale-boat
went on board, and soon returned bringing the
Bishop's Chaplain, the Rev. Mr. Patteson. The
Bishop proposes landing to-morrow, and bringing
390 BISHOP AND MRS. SELWYN,
Mrs. Selwyrf with him. Mr. Patteson took up
his abode with me ; and after supper the com-
munity assembled at my house, and remained
some hours engaged in edifying conversation and
'singing, which greatly pleased the reverend
'gentleman.
Saturday, 5th.- Fine weather this morning ;
'the Kev. Mr. Patteson returned on board, and
the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn came on shore.
We, as it may be supposed, gave them a hearty
.welcome ; and Government House being vacant,
it was appropriated to their use during their stay.
In the evening the people assembled at the
Bishop's residence, and were much pleased to
find that a Bishop could condescend to men of
low estate. Myself busied at home preparing a
sermon for the occasion, not polishing it, but
endeavouring to set forth the duties of pastors
'and people ; I trust it answered the intention ;
I am sure I earnestly prayed it might.
Sunday, 6th. Divine Service twice, with the
Sacrament of the Lord's Supper. At the morning
service I read prayers, and the Bishop preached
a most effective sermon ; it was almost extem-
porary. Afternoon ; the Bishop read prayers,
and mine was the sermon. After service the
Sunday school was assembled for the first time
since our arrival; the Bishop took one class, Mrs.
Selwyn another, and Mr. Harper, who accom-
panied the Bishop, took a third ; the other classes
.were attended by their usual teachers. .The
classes gave entire satisfaction. In the evening
many of our people went to listen to the Bishop's
very instructive conversation.
LATE CONVICT ESTABLISHMENT. 391
Monday, 7th. Fine weather ; the Bishop and
myself went through the prisons and other de-
partments of the Convict Establishment, but no
sound was there of good or eviL They were
merely dreadful mementos of the past. Still it
was harrowing to pass through these barriers of
wood and stone, and to be continually stepping
on bolts and shackles, and using much strength
to swing on their hinges the ponderous doors of
cells and dungeons, which, when closed, were
impervious to the light of day. And it seemed
to me that even the very air was forbidden to
enter except in very insufficient quantities. Oh,
there were irrefragable proofs of the depravity
of the nature of man ! that being whom God
made upright, but whose rebellious perverseness
brought upon himself tribulation and wrath to
the uttermost. In the evening the Bishop held
a public meeting, in which the interests of the
community, temporal and spiritual, were dis-
cussed : his Lordship also appealed to our
sympathies in regard to the heathen, especially
those among the islands he is now about to visit.
A proposal was also made by him, that we should
receive a few children from these islands into
our families, and teach them the principles of the
.Christian religion and industrious habits, so that
'in a few years they might return to their native
lands and instruct others. I see no objection
^to our receiving a few children among us to be
civilised, as far as civilisation has obtained here.
[I have consented to have one child under my roof,
and will do all I can for its welfare, by God's help.
Tuesday, 8th. Weather very fine; the.
392 CAPT. M C ARTHUR'S SOUTHERN CROSS.
Bishop's vessel (the Southern Cross), according
to arrangement, came in, and was telegraphed
round to the Cascades. By request the Bishop
performed Divine Service, and then prepared to
take his departure. Mrs. Selwyn, not enjoying
S3od health, is to remain with us until the
ishop's return ; and I am glad Mrs. Selwyn is
going to stay among us for a time ; her instruction
and example will be of much use to our girls.
Jemima Young and my daughter Jane will reside
with her. After dinner, went over to the Cas-
cades with the Bishop, the boat from the vessel
was in waiting. The Bishop told the two sea-
men to come on shore, and look about them for
an hour, and himself and one of our people took
the oars to pull on board. Of course, the Bishop
was not permitted to retain his place at the
oar, one of our lads relieving him ; but I am
told that he frequently pulls an oar in his boating
expeditions among the islanders, swims through a
heavy surf, travels sometimes barefoot, and with-
out attendants, among the untamed natives, who
view with astonishment and respect his fearless
but conciliatory deportment. Towards evening
the Southern Cross pursued her errand of mercy.
On the 2d September, a vessel arrived which
was at first mistaken for the Bishop's Southern
Cross ; but it turned out to be another Southern
Cross, Captain McArthur, who had touched at
Pitcairn about a year previous.
.The return of Bishop Selwyn to the Island is
[thus narrated :
Thursday, Sept. 4t7i. -"At three P. M. a sail was
announced off the Cascades. Towards evening
SOLOMON ISLANDERS. 393
she was ascertained to be a schooner, no doubt
the vera SOUTHERN CROSS.
Friday, 5th. The schooner off the settlement,
with the flag of peace flying at the main ! One of
our canoes went on board: it being somewhat
rough, the schooner went round to the Cascades,
where the Bishop landed, being pulled on shore
by a boat's crew of Solomon Island natives,
some of whom had rings in their noses, but quite
tractable, they understanding and obeying every
direction of the good Bishop with alacrity, so
rapidly had he obtained an influence over them
for good. As soon as he landed, he was fur-
nished with a horse ; and I, on another, accom-
panied him back to the settlement. In the
evening the Bishop examined a class of cate-
chumens preparatory to confirmation. During
the day some half dozen Solomon Islanders,
under the charge of a young man belonging
to the Bishop's establishment, landed at the
Cascades, and came over. They had rings in
their noses ; and the lobes of their ears had been
perforated, and the holes so widely extended,
that they hung down like loops of Indian rubber,
into which your hand might be inserted without
difficulty ; otherwise they had nothing of a fero-
cious appearance. They were decently clad, and
displayed little curiosity or wonder at houses or
their contents, or the horses or cattle which they
for the first time saw. They were, however,
objects of curiosity, sympathy, and attention to
our people,.
Saturday, 6tk. Weather calm and clear.
Arranged the community in classes, preparatory
394 CONFIRMATION.
to the Bishop's examining them for confirmation,
which he is busily engaged upon.
Sunday, 7th. Finding them competent to the
wise and consistent requirements of the Church,
his lordship determined to perform the scriptural
rite of Confirmation this afternoon. The morning
service commenced at the usual time, myself
officiating. At the conclusion of the second
lesson the Bishop administered the sacrament
of baptism to the infant child of John Adpms
the second. What would have been the feelings
of John Adams the first, could he have seen this
day?
Just at the conclusion of the holy rite, the
Bishop's Chaplain (the Rev. Mr. Patteson, who
had just landed from their vessel) entered the
church, having put on his surplice outside, and
walking down the aisle, joined the Bishop in the
chancel. So many clergymen in their appropriate
vestments, present at the same time, had never
before been witnessed by our community, and
I think excited in them somewhat of wonder av,d
veneration. The Bishop concluded the Liturgy
by reading the proper portions of the
nion service ; Mr. Patteson assisted. His lord-
ship then went into the pulpit and Breached
nearly extempore a sermon admirably suited to
the occasion, from the Epistle for the day (Eph.
iii. 17 19). It was listened to with breathless
attention, and was, I think, thoroughly com-
prehended and retentively appreciated. The
sermon concluded, the Holy Eucharist (it being
the first Sunday in the month) was administered
to sixty-six communicants, the Bishop present-
CONFIRMATION. 395
ing the bread, myself the wine. After the de-
parture of the congregation, the Bishop, Mr.
Patteson, and myself, with old Arthur Quintal,
were for some time employed in placing stools in
front of the chancel for the accommodation of
the a* about to be confirmed.
At half-past three in the afternoon the service
commenced : the candidates were first called by
name, and arranged on the before-mentioned
stools ; the women on the right-hand range or
tiev ; the men on the left. It was, in truth, not
only an impressive, but a pleasing scene.
I am sure our Christian friends would have
experienced unmitigated pleasure to have seen
the aged and the young renewing, and ratifying
their Christian obligations in the name of the
Lord from whom cometh our help. Before the
conclusion, it became nearly dark in the church,
and the Bishop was obliged to repair to the
outer door in order to distinguish the names of
the persons on the certificates of confirmation.
The Bishop himself first taking each person by
the nand, and using the Christian name of each,
asked God's blessing on them. And then the
members of the various families returned to their
respective homes, well pleased and edified.
The lumber of persons confirmed amounted
to eighty-six, including all ages, from Elizabeth
Young (daughter of Mills, of the Bounty, and
the oldest person in the community, she being
about sixty-six), to Andrew Christian, aged
fifteen, the great grandson of Fletcher Christian.
Three persons only, who were invalids, were
exceptions to this general assembly.
396 DEPARTURE OF THE BISHOP.
The Bishop, in describing the scene at the
Confirmation which he held on the island, said,
" The Chapel opened into the prison-yard, set
round with every kind of cell, for every class of
criminal, in every corner heaps of rusty fetters,
or cast-off garments marked with the broad
arrow, and numbered on the back, as if the
wearer were no longer worthy of a name ; and
all these signs of misery and sin, made more
striking by the horrid silence of the solitary
cells, or of the wards which the numbers showed
to have been once crowded with twenty, thirty,
or even one hundred prisoners. Close to this
visible type of everything which is most hateful
in sin and its consequences, might be heard
the song of praise, in which every voice joined,
and on the 7th of September, 1856, eighty-
six persons there knelt before the Lord's
Table, to receive strength to fulfil their bap-
tismal promise, by fighting manfully under
Christ's banner, against sin, the world, and the
devil."
On Tuesday, the 9th, the Bishop, with Mrs.
Selwyn and Mr. Patteson, left for Auckland.
It is gratifying to observe the considerate
and disinterested manner in which all the
arrangements, in connexion with the assign-
ment of Norfolk Island to a deserving race,
have been conducted by persons in power.
Such a donation, so conferred, has reflected on
Her Majesty's Government an amount of honour
and advantage far greater than that of any
pecuniary profit wlricL might have been derived
PROSPECTS OF THE ISLANDERS* 397
from the sale of the whole property. Nor
have feelings of kindness towards the Pitcairn
community so far prevailed as to keep out of
view a just and careful attention to their real
interests. If they are to continue happy, they
must "be industrious. Labour and toil, the
original condition of man's lot on earth, will
doubtless enter into the terms of the muni-
ficent charter under which they will possess the
island. In what way an object so essential to
their own good may be attained, the wisdom of
the Governor-General, and those associated with
him in the conduct of affairs on the spot, will
best decide.
Meanwhile, it would be wise in the com-
munity, and their friends far away, to pay
good heed to the sensible recommendations of
Sir William Denison, on the subject of aid
from without, in the shape of clothes and other
articles. It would be far better that the people
should learn to provide for their extra require-
ments by the sale of extra produce, for which
there will always be a demand, than to depend
upon any gratuitous supplies. With a large
stock of sheep they may realize something
considerable by the wool. The favourite sweet
potato, and nearly all the varieties of English
vegetables, may be raised in profusion. Guavas
and lemons grow wild ; and, there being two
crops of the former every year, they come in
well to assist in feeding the pigs. Grapes,
peaches, melons, figs, loquots, bananas, pine-
apples, pomegranates, and cucumbers, grow
in the open air. The crops of wheat, barley,
398 PROGRESS AND PROSPECTS.
rye, and oats, though sometimes good, are sub-
ject to blight.
Should they wish to avoid intercourse with
any ships and whalers which occasionally pass,
they can do so. The landing at the two best
points, north and south of the island, is generally
difficult, owing to the heavy swell, called " the
Bar," which lashes Uie island on all sides. The
principal harbourage is on the southern side, in
front of the settlement ; but even this is paved
with anchors ; and, at low water, their flukes are
seen protruding from the beds of coral. Captains
of vessels have seldom shown any desire to land,
unless they are in need of water, or of fruits and
vegetables.
With the large stone houses, one of which
contains about twelve rooms, and numerous out-
offices, including coach-house, stable, &c., these
unambitious colonists need have little to do.
They will not require the solid and extensive
blocks of building, forming the old and new
military barracks, which alone afforded accom-
modation for 280 men with their officers ; the
commissariat, convicts', and engineers' store
premises ; the range of buildings forming the
gaol-establishment, and the gaolers' and turnkeys 7
quarters, with the large dornitories, and mess-
rooms, and dwellings for the overseers. But they
will have found awaiting them- good stone cottages,
some with six rooms, others with four, three, &c.,
and kitchens detached ; several weather-boarded
cottages and huts, carpenters' and blacksmiths'
shops ; a wind-mill, and a water-mill ; barns
and stables; and two large boat-sheds j with
NECESSITY OF LABOUR. 599
other appliances and means for the exercise
of their talents and industry. If they at first
miss their sweet potato, they have the Irish
instead ; flour, instead of yams and plantains ;
cows' milk, instead of milk from the cocoa-nut.
The astonishment of the people, on viewing
the magnificent structures of Norfolk Island,
is said to have been great ; and they were much
amazed *and delighted at the sight of a horse,
a creature which they had never seen before.
They were not long, however, in becoming well
acquainted with the use of the noble animal.
On the day after their arrival, several of them
took their turns in riding the overseer's horse
about the island; and by the severe exercise
which they gave him, he was completely tired
out by the evening. Jacob Christian, riding
with more courage than skill, had a bad fall
from one of the horses.
The islanders have commenced farming and
Gardening operations ; and they have probably
iscovered, (or at least they have been assured
by their judicious friend and Governor,) that
labour, and plenty of it, will be necessary to
advance their welfare and happiness. The
various kinds of wood produced on the island,
maple, ironwood, ,,and hopwood, will supply
materials for solid and ornamental box-making,
creditable specimens of which have been sent to
England from the same hands at Pitcairn. Some
of the far-famed Norfolk Island pines may per-
haps be found serviceable for the purposes of Her
Majesty's navy; whilst the too luxuriant growth
of the vegetation, especially the wild cotton-plant,
c c
400 RESOURCES ON THE ISLAND.
will demand no trifling amount of exertion to
keep it down, and render it serviceable.
To those who are accustomed to trace the
wisdom of God in the works of the Creation,
the pursuit of botany will afford an ample fund
of pleasure and refreshment.
The fishing being good, a large supply of
hooks and sea-lines, sent out to Norfolk Island,
will have already been found useful.
Phillip Island, about six miles distant, may
be easily reached on a calm day. It abounds
with rabbits ; a skilful marksman can kill suffi-
cient, in a few hours, to fill his boat. There
are, also, on this island, some beautiful wild
goats, which may be got at with caution. Their
flesh is not far inferior to our English venison.
The study of books, which engaged a consi-
derable portion of the day at Pitcairn, will still
prove the islanders' employment and delight.
An addition of some religious and useful works
has lately been made to the library by the
Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge.
The Pitcairn Fund Committee, sensible of
the condescension and generosity shown by the
Queen in favour of her loyal subjects, late of
Pitcairn's Island, resolved, humbly to lay before
Her Majesty the following dutiful address :
TO THE QUEEN'S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY.
THE HUMBLE ADDRESS OF THE PITCAIRN
FUND COMMITTEE.
" We, your Majesty's faithful subjects, in the
name of the Subscribers to the Fund, and -for
ADDRESS TO THE QUEEN. 401
ourselves, humbly desire to express our most
devoted loyalty and dutiful attachment to your
Majesty ; and to offer our hearty thanks for the
benevolent provision which your Majesty has
been pleased to make in behalf of your good
and most loving subjects, the late Community
of Pitcairn Island, now transferred by the kind-
ness of your Majesty, and, with singular success,
by your Majesty's Government, to their new
abode on Norfolk Island.
" Leaving with feelings of regret their former
habitation in the Southern Pacific, which was
no longer capable of sustaining their, increasing-
numbers, one hundred and ninety-four persons
have been safely removed, and located on Nor-
folk Island, a home the most suitable for them
in your Majesty's dominions, luxuriant in its
natural productions, and sufficiently remote from
the commerce of the world. There the simplicity
of their manners may, under God's blessing,
long continue.
" Furnished, by your Majesty's fostering care,
with the present necessaries of life, with imple-
ments of agriculture, with horses, oxen, and
sheep, and seeds to sow in their due season, the
new inhabitants of Norfolk Island have already
shown a surprising aptitude for the performance
of the several duties arising from their altered
position.
" They have expressed their heart-felt grati-
tude for the advantages conferred upon them by
your Majesty. And we, in unison with them,
do gratefully acknowledge your Royal benefi-
cence ; and look to the influence of their unaf-
cc 2
402 VISIT OF THE GOVERNOR.
fected piety, and pure Christian practice, for the
most happy results to the future welfare of the
islanders of the Pacific and Indian Oceans.
" That this glorious anticipation may be real-
ized, we humbly pray your Majesty graciously
to continue to the Community your benign care,
and powerful protection. And we most humbly
beseech Almighty God to prosper this your
Majesty's excellent work."
The Committee were apprised, soon after the
presentation of the Address, that it had been
very graciously received by Her Majesty. It
was added, that both Her Majesty and the
Prince Consort had read with much interest the
Report of the Committee, as to the safe transfer
of the Pitcairn Community to Norfolk Island.
The Governor of New South Wales and
Norfolk Island, in a letter to the Islanders from
Sydney, Feb. 16, 1856, had expressed a hope
of becoming personally acquainted with them ;
and said, he trusted that they would continue
to maintain that happy simplicity, and true
Christian character, which had gained for them
regard and esteem all over the world.
His Excellency accordingly paid his intended
visit to Norfolk Island, and saw the community
in the enjoyment of the advantages of their new
home. Having sailed from Sydney on the 17th
Sept. 1857, he had reached Norfolk Island on the
23d, and found a large proportion of the popula-
tion, with the Eev. G. H. Nobbs at their head,
ready to receive and welcome the distinguished
visitor. Horses had been brought ; but the Go-
vernor preferred walking, across the Island,
HIS ADVICE AND INSTRUCTIONS. 403
accompanied by Mr. Nobbs, and the Chief
Magistrate, Mr. Young, to the settlement, a
distance of about three miles. On the following
day he called the inhabitants together in the
school-room, and read his commission, which,
together with the instructions forwarded to him
by the Secretary of State for his guidance, he
caused to be copied into the book containing the
laws of the Colony. He also applied for certain
written returns as to names, families, population,
available land, and other statistics.
The people being much in want of flour and
biscuit, he determined to proceed to Auckland,
New Zealand, to get the requisite food, as well
as to arrange for a trade in such things as
wool, tallow, and hides, which the Islanders
had for sale. He embarked for Auckland on
Saturday, the 26th September, and returned to
Norfolk Island on the 8th of October. In the
mean time, the returns had been prepared, and
the Governor had finished his revision of the
Laws and Eegulations. A meeting of the adult
portion of the community was held on the 14th,
when he explained to them the objects of Her
Majesty's Government in placing them where
they were, and gave them valuable instruction
and advice, in order that they might, with God's
blessing, maintain their increasing numbers by
their own exertions, and keep up, as far as pos-
sible, the peculiar form of polity under which
they had existed so happily on another spot
The necessity of regular and energetic labour
was impressed upon them ; and, to facilitate this,
the Governor proposed to send as settlers on the
404 NEW SETTLERS ON THE ISLAND.
Island, some fit and competent persons. Mr.
Thomas Rossiter, who was deemed eligible as a
Schoolmaster and Storekeeper, and who had been
a successful Master of a Church of England In-
dustrial School in Hertfordshire, was at the head
of the party. He was accompanied by his wife,
his two children, and his sister. James Darve,
miller, wheelwright, and smith, with his wife
and two children, and H. J. Blinman, single
man, mason and plasterer, made up the number
of ten. These persons having been appointed
by Her Majesty's Emigration Commissioners,
sailed from Plymouth in the Palmyra, Feb. 13,
1859. The passage-money to Sydney was, in
each case, defrayed from the fund raised by the
Pitcairn Fund Committee. The whole balance
of the amount invested has since been placed
by the Committee in the hands of the Governor,
for the benefit of the Islanders.
Mr. Fortescue Moresby, R.N. of the Iris, ac-
companied Sir William Denison on his visit to
Norfolk Island. In a letter dated H.M.S. Iris,
Sydney, Nov. 27, 1857, Mr. Moresby said:
"I landed at Norfolk Island on the 25th of
September, with three other officers : and never,
indeed, did any man receive a warmer welcome
than I did ; much to the wonder of the officers
who were with me. I was carried back to those
times when I landed at Pitcairn in company
with my dear father ; and I heartily wished
him with us, to see the kindly faces around me.
As Mrs. Selwyn was on the Island, I walked
up to pay her my respects, and then returned
to Mr. Nobbs's house, to take some photo-
PROVISION FOK THE COMMUNITY. 405
graphic pictures of the Islanders ; for I had all
my apparatus on shore. I turned Mr. Nobbs's
study into an impromptu dark room, and then
took some pictures. Of course, in taking groups
with children, some of them moved."
A narrative of the Governor's visit, and the
substance of his instruction and advice to the
Islanders, were communicated by him in a
lecture, which he delivered in the Hall of the
School of Arts, at Sydney, New South Wales,
on the 24th of November, 1857.
The following particulars will afford a just
view of the present state of Norfolk Island :
The whole of the island has been surveyed,
and divided into allotments, averaging about
fifty acres to each allotment ; and it has been
decided by Sir William Denison, that one
allotment shall be assigned to each of the
families now resident on the Island. The
island being the property of the Crown, the
right of ownership, in every instance, will be
held on a grant from the Crown. A document
will be issued to each head of a family, con-
veying to him in fee the absolute property in
one of the portions or allotments. The deeds of
conveyance have been sent to the island, but are
not to be handed over to those concerned until
1861. The Governor, after the symptoms of in-
decision manifested by some members of the com-
munity, deemed it undesirable to place property
in the hands of persons who might be disposed
to part with it for the purpose of procuring
means of returning to Pitcairn's Island.
Should a deed of grant be lost, the defect
406 REGULATION OF PROPERTY.
may be repaired by a simple numerical system
of registration, such as is adopted in New
Zealand.
A wish having been expressed by the com-
munity that grants of allotments should be
made to unmarried females, who had reached a
certain age, this recommendation will probably
take effect, under the restriction, that, at their
decease, the property which they had possessed
should revert to the Crown.
Firm and prudent measures have been taken
for the regulation of property in the live-stock
on the island. Owing to the deficiency of skilled
labourers for the works, and to other causes, the
inhabitants appear, in the early period of their
residence on Norfolk Island, to have failed
in making energetic efforts to replenish the
supplies of sheep and cattle lost by disease,
or slaughtered for food. With the view of
remedying this state of things, Sir William
Denison made the sheep Government pro-
perty, and directed that they should be allowed
to increase until they reached the original
number of two thousand. The product of the
wool and of the carcases serves to create a fund
for the benefit of the islanders. His Excellency
also procures goods at Sydney, which are des-
patched, at proper intervals, to the storekeeper,
Mr. Kossiter, for their use ; that is, for such as
choose to purchase.
In addition to the profitable results of their
fishery, and the tuns of whale-oil which have been
sent to Sydney for sale, the islanders, through the
sagacity of one of their body, have discovered a
THE CHAPLAIN'S ACCOUNT. 407
fruitful source of gain in a fine species of stone
suited for filters. This ingenious person found the
quarry, excavated the stones, and formed them
into the shape of filters. This filter, or drip-
stone, containing about four gallons, is invalu-
able for a whale ship ; and these hollowed stones
actually fetch from 4 to 5 each. The people are
also enabled to manufacture soap, for which they
find a sale among the whalers visiting the island.
The last letter received from the Rev. G. H.
Nobbs, dated Norfolk Island, October 20th,
1859, gives the following account:
" On the 27th of December last, a ship named
Secibird, belonging to McNamara and Co., of
Sydney, left this place; my son Edwin taking
a passage in her at the request of Sir William
Denison. By this ship I forwarded to your
address a basket of Fiji manufacture, containing
various ornaments and mats of heathen origin,
and which I thought would serve as subjects for
lectures ; there were also two photograph en-
gravings, suitable for the Norfolk Island portion
of your book ; letters to Admiral Moresby, Sir
Thomas Acland, Mrs. Heywood, and other
valued friends ; and, lastly, several original
papers, to wit, a sermon preached before the
Governor-General, some verses, entitled, ' The
Coral Isles/* with a string of notes appended,
and a variety of other pieces.
" On the 2d of last December, two families,
those of Mayhew Young and Moses Young, left
this place for Pitcairn's, in a schooner of eighty
tons, called the Mary Anne. Of these persons,
For these clever and spirited verses, see page 357*
408 SECEDERS FROM NORFOLK ISLAND.
sixteen in number, the parents were the only
persons over the age of fifteen years. We have
heard nothing of them since their departure, and
you can easily imagine how great our anxiety
is concerning them. During the four or five
months subsequent to their departure, nothing of
note transpired beyond the arrival of H.M.S.
Cordelia, bringing despatches from the Go-
vernor-General, and a letter from yourself,
informing me that you had forwarded a box
containing the articles I mentioned. The next
letter I received was by Mr. Rossiter, on the
23d of June, dated January 1st, 1859, and with
it a package of excellent books from your bene-
volent Society. Your new year's letter was
most acceptable. The next letters which came
to hand arrived through the kindness of Bishop
Selwyn; and with them the long-announced
and anxiously-expected box, in good order, and
everything correct ; the clothing, &c. all ex-
cellent, and well-fitting. The letters were dated
July and October, 1858, and had been sent with
the box on board H.M.S. Elk, to be brought
hither ; but on her arrival at Auckland she was
ordered elsewhere, and the things she had on
board were transferred to the Southern Cross.
For the books furnished by your Society, and
contained in this box, I beg leave to offer my
grateful, my unqualified thanks. The Cate-
chisms are the helps I have long needed ; that
is to say, a sufficient quantity of them to form
classes ; and now that I have so much more
time to attend to this particular branch of school
instruction, I think you may well expect me to
CONFIRMATION BY BISHOP SELWYN. 409
say, { I am grateful.' The Bishop remained
with us on this occasion three days, and held a
confirmation of three persons, there being no
more of sufficient age. His Lordship then made
sail for the Isles of darkness in this vicinity ; and
we are expecting his return in a week or two, on
his way to Auckland. He is as kind as ever,
and we are the recipients of many, very many
favours at his hands. There is no one here but
loves his lordship truly.
" Our people succeeded in taking a hundred
and twenty barrels of oil last year, one hundred
of which were sent to Sydney, and realized
240. This money has just been remitted to
us, but will not more than cover the expenses of
the fitting out of last season, and the cost of
new boats, lines, casks, &c. for an establishment
on a larger scale this year. We have now four
boats well equipped, which require twenty-
four men to work them. The whaling season
is now almost over; but not more than thirty
barrels of oil have yet been secured, owing to
the scarcity and shyness of the whales ; but
this is nothing strange in the whaling lottery :
another year may be altogether as plentiful.
Two weeks since they killed three large cow
whales, but they sank immediately (a common
case) ; one was afterwards recovered, but the
sharks had so preyed upon it that not more than
fifteen barrels of oil were obtained. In the
melee at that time we had one boat smashed,
but the boat's crew would not run from the
whale. With a hole in the fore part of the boat
big enough for a man to go through, they all
410 WHALING ADVENTURE.
removed to the after part, and in spite of trie
kicking and fighting of the whale, held on till
the other boats came to their assistance, which
was scarcely done when the broken boat, being
full of water, rolled over, bottom up. In that
boat I had three sons and two sons-in-law. On
their return, I remonstrated with them for their
rashness, but they seemed to think there was no
great danger.
" The season has been very favourable for our
crops, and we have plenty of Indian corn and
sweet potatoes, with fish, milk, and butter.
Irish potatoes will not thrive ; would they do so,
whale ships would supply us with almost every-
thing we need. Flour we must also import.
There has been very little sickness among the
community ; the most are becoming contented,
and consequently comfortable.
" Mr. Rossiter is, I think, just such a man as
was needed industrious in school, and out, and
very unassuming.
" Her Majesty's ship Niger was here a short
time since, bringing a large quantity of articles,
purchased by Sir William Denison, for opening
a store under the direction of Mr. Rossiter. The
only expensive thing is flour, which at the
B'esent time is dear at Sydney. Sir William
enison has taken the control of the sheep into
his own hands. The wool is to be sent to
Sydney, and the proceeds therefrom will be
placed in bank for the benefit of the community;
but can only be drawn with the consent of the
Governor, whose signature must be affixed to
the drafts.
CAPABILITIES OF NORFOLK ISLAND. 411
" As respects other matters we are going on
very well. There have been fifty births since
our arrival ; and it would appear that baptisms
and churchings will be of weekly occurrence ere
long. But Norfolk Island contains 8,607 acres,
which will give a fifty acre lot to 172 families
(there are now forty) ; so that there is plenty of
room for increase ; though I am not at all anxious
there should be any influx of strangers beyond
those we have at present, save a parson and a
doctor, when I am invalided or buried, as it may
be providentially ordered by Him who doeth all
things well. There have been no marriages this
year, and but two deaths infants of a few days
old. In short, since our arrival, now more than
three years, the deaths which have occurred are
those of a young woman, aged fifteen, from con-
sumption ; a child of five years, from concus-
sion of the brain, the result of an accident ; and
four infants : total, six. Asthma and rheu-
matism are the principal complaints, and they
are less severe than at Pitcairn's. The last year
and the present have been very productive, from
the frequency of showers during the summer
months ; but I perceive from a meteorological
journal, kept here formerly, these are exceptional
occurrences, and that long-continued droughts
between October and February are frequently
fatal to the corn and sweet potato crops. But
Moses' injunction and promise are equally in
force now, as in ancient days, ' Ye shall serve
the Lord your God, and He shall bless thy bread
and thy water.'
" The number of persons belonging to the
412 CENSUS OF THE COMMUNITY.
comimmity is 221 : 112 males, and 109 females.
This is exclusive of the sixteen returned to
Pitcairn's, and the families recently arrived, now
numbering ten persons. Communicants, ninety-
seven. Children in the public school, sixty-
three, all of whom attend the Sunday-school,
which is composed of eight classes. The teachers
are Thomas Rossiter, Jemima Young, Jane
Nobbs, Francis Nobbs, Johnstone Nobbs,
Edwin Nobbs, Macey Quintal, and myself. I
take the younger ones, and as soon as they are
organized, appoint a permanent teacher for them,
and then collect another class from the literally
' little ones.' Not being able to attend every
Sunday as I have frequently patients to visit
after the public services are concluded, my
absence is not so much felt by a young class as
it would be by those more advanced : besides, I
am frequently a visitor to all the classes."
The captain of a vessel which called at
Norfolk Island as lately as September, 1859,
has thus described his visit, in the Hobart Town
Daily Mercury, December 12th, 1859 :
" In the month of September, 1859, I visited
Norfolk Island (the present home of the Pitcairn
Islanders), to recruit my vessel. It was their
Sabbath, and I well knew that they would
transact no business on that day. I went on
shore, however, in the morning. On approach-
ing the beach, I found several of my former
acquaintances assembled to give me a hearty
welcome. No sooner did the boat touch the
ground, than she was carried clear of danger by
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PEOPLE. 413
my own crew, and the parties on the beach.
The kind and affectionate manner in which
these trusting people welcomed me cannot be
expressed in words. After placing our boat in
safety, we were escorted by them from the Cas-
cades to the settlement, where every hospitality
was shown both to myself and my men.
" It being the Sabbath, I did not encroach on
their time ; but on the following day the Pitcairn
Islanders of both sexes, children included, came
to give us a hearty English welcome, and to
minister to our immediate wants ; nor did their
kindness and attention cease until I left. It
coming on to blow, my vessel was compelled to
get under weigh and stand out to sea, leaving
me on the island, and I was thus enabled to
learn from them their immediate wants, their
form of government, and such like. Their mode
of government is extremely simple, and as
effective as it is simple. A magistrate and two
councillors are elected annually. If any dispute
arises, it is referred to these, and their decision
is presumed to be binding. If, however, that
decision is. not satisfactory, a reference is made
to the captain of the first British man-of-war
touching at the island ; and from his decision
there is no appeal. These disputes, however,
never create any angry feeling between the
parties ; they live on as friendly as ever. The
magistrates have very little difficulty in recti-
fying all differences as they arise.
" During my stay, I conversed with the
greatest part of the community. Crime of any
kind, theft, swearing, falsehood, immorality, are
414 CONCLUSION.
unknown on the island. Although devout in
their religious services and observances, they
are, at the same time, cheerful and buoyant in
spirits, neither knowing wrong themselves, nor
dreading wrong from others.' 7
It is gratifying to observe the religious, moral,
and amiable traits of character, which were so
attractive at Pitcairn, still marking the conduct
and manners of the people in their new and
more amply furnished home. But it will be
evident to every thoughtful reader, that they
are beset with trials of various kinds, espe-
cially those which are incident to increased
responsibility, and extended possessions ; and
that, like their brethren here, and everywhere,
they will have daily need of divine grace, to
prevent them from falling, and to enable them
to keep themselves unspotted from the world.
Printed for the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge
at the CLAKENKON PKESS, Oxford,
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Seaside (A Month at the); or, A Sequel to "Willie
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By Mrs. R. M. BRAT. Royal 16mo, cloth boards 10
School and Holidays.
A description of German Upper Class Life for Girls. Trans-
lated from the German. With three illustrations on toned
paper. Fcap. 8vo, cloth boards 16
Sowing Dragon's Teeth.
Fcap. 8vo, cloth boards 10
Stories of Success, as Illustrated by the Lives of
Humble Men who have made themselves Great.
By JAMES F. COBB, Esq., Author of " Silent Jim." With four
illustrations on toned paper. Crown 8vo, cloth boards ... 3
Stranger than Fiction.
A Story of Mission Life. By the Rev. J. J. HALCOMBE, M.A.
With eight full-page illustrations on toned paper. Post 8vo,
cloth boards 26
Susan ; or, The First Year in Service.
With a full-page illustration on toned paper. Crown 8vo,
cloth boards 10
Thousand Years, A ; or, The Missionary Centres of
the Middle Ages.
By the Rev. JOHN WTSE. On toned paper, with four illustra-
tions. Crown 8vo, cloth boards 2 o
Uncle Tom's Stories ; or, Buzzes from Insect Land.
On toned paper, with four full-page illustrations. Royal
16mo, cloth boards . . ; 16
Village Beech Tree, The ; or, "Work and Trust.
With four full-page illustrations on toned paper. Crown
8vo, cloth boards 2 C
What Friends are Meant For.
By FLORENCE WILFORD. Royal 16mo. On toned paper,
cloth boards 16
Year in the Country (A) ; A Tale of the Seasons.
Royal 16ino. Oil toned paper. Cloth boards 16
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