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BIBLIOTHECA
PVSEtANA OXON:

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■ 1

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y.L %

THE

ISLE OF MAN;

anti Legeritiatp.

Rev. JOSEPH GEORGE GUMMING, M.A., F.G.S.,

VICE-PRINCIPAL OF KING WILLIAM's COLLEGE, CASTLETOWN.

QUOCUNQUE JECERIS 8TABIT.

LONDON:
JOHN VAN VOORST, PATERNOSTER ROW.

MDCCCXLVIII.

3)A

PBINTBO BT RICHARD AND JOHN K. TAYLOR,
RED LION COORT, FLEET STREET.

;j^-'7j /jvw

TO
THE RIGHT REVEREND FATHER IN GOD,

THOMAS VOWLER SHORT, D.D.,

lord bishop of st. asaph.

My Lord,

I AVAIL myself with pleasure of the kind permission to
dedicate this Work to you, both because it assures me of
your still continued interest in this most ancient existing
Diocese of the British Isles, in which you entered on the
duties and responsibilities of the Episcopal Office, and also
because it gives me an opportunity of expressing my own
feelings of personal obligation to your Lordship, as well as
those both owed and felt by every member of that Institution
with which I am connected. Whilst many other proofs of
your goodwill can never be forgotten, a special remembrance
is entertained of that occasion when, through your energy

17 DEDICATION.

and liberality, King WiUiam^a College was restored, and
more than restored, from the ruins of a most destructive
visitation. I am sure we have reason to thank God that He
put it into your heart to take the lead in raising up again
an Institution which was planned by the most loyal and
unfortunate James seventh Earl of Derby, endowed by the
liberality of your predecessor, both in this See and that
which you now occupy, the pious Dr. Isaac Barrow, fostered
by the assiduous care of the Apostolic Thomas Wilson, and
established in its best estate by the labours and munificence
of Bishop Ward, to be {as we hope) a perpetual nursery of
sound learning and religion in this Isle.

I have the honour to subscribe myself,
My Lord, your Lordship's

Most humble and obedient Servant,

JOSEPH GEORGE GUMMING.

PREFACE,

The following work originated in the desire expressed by
some friends, whose judgement I value, that I would place
before the public in a popular form the substance of my
memoirs upon the physical history of the Isle of Man,
which have appeared in the numbers of the ^ Quarterly
Journal of the Geological Society of London/ I was the
more inclined so to do from observing that a deficiency
existed on matters connected with natural history in all
works upon the island hitherto published, and from find-
ing that on one subject, its geology, peculiar circumstances
enabled me to supply information not possessed by any
other.

The most simple and popular method of communicating
that information, as it appeared to me, was to transfer
from my field-book the notes of the different geological
traverses I have made during the last seven years in
various parts of the island.

In doing this I could hardly pass by the spots rendered
interesting by their connection with events in Manx civil
and ecclesiastical history without some notice of them ; and
even the Fairy legends and Ghost stories, deeply inter-

VI PREFACE.

woven with and illustrating the character of the native
population^ obtruded themselves upon my memory^ and
seemed not altogether unworthy of being perpetuated.
My work has thus taken a somewhat wider range than I
had originally intended. How far I have succeeded in
throwing interest into a subject to all but geologists I fear
very dry, I must leave to the reader to determine. I be-
lieve however that this little book will be found to contain
a faithful summary of all that is really known of the past
periods of the insular history, and that nothing is omitted
which it is important a stranger should be made acquainted
with in order that he may form a just estimate of the pre-
sent condition and prospects of this island country. At
the same time it presents a fuller itinerary than can be
elsewhere met with ; and if I have deviated in some respects
from the route generally taken by tourists, it is to draw
attention to some peculiar features in Manx scenery which
a casual visitor would be almost sure to miss, and with
which even many residents are unacquainted.

For the geological portion of the book I myself am solely
and altogether responsible. The memoirs previous to my
own having been drawn up at a period when Geology was
in its infancy, those who are acquainted with the rapid
advance which it has made in late years will be prepared
to expect some addition to those accounts in any work
now published on the same subject. The maps and sec-
tions which I have made as they appear in this work, com-

PREFACE. VU

pared with those previously existing^ will show that these
additions are considerable^ as also the catalogues of fossils re-
corded from this locality, the number of which I have raised
from about twenty to upwards of two hundred and fifty.

Mr. George Wood's account of the Isle of Man, published
in 1811^ contains the earliest geological notice of it, and
is pretty accurate as respects the older rocks. Dr. Berger
resided here a considerable time, and in 1814 a memoir of
his was published in the second volume of the First Series
of the ^Transactions of the Geological Society;' and this,
together with a supplementary account by Professor Hens-
low in the fifth volume of that series, furnishes a correct
view of the extent of geological information at that time
possessed respecting the Isle of Man.

Dr. Macculloch in 1819, in his account of the Western
Isles of Scotland (vol. ii. p. 516), made an addition to the
previous notices; and an interesting memoir by Dr. Hibbert
on the discovery of the Megaceros Hibemicus or Fossil
Elk in the Isle of Man, will be found in the fifth number
of the Edinburgh Journal of Science, published in 1826.
H. B. Oswald, Esq., of Douglas, also published a pam-
phlet on the stratification of alluvial deposits in 1823.
The only other and latest notice with which I am ac-
quainted, is the extremely interesting paper on the Pleisto-
cene formation of the north of the island, by Hugh Strick-
land, Esq., F.G.S., in the fourth volume of the Second
Series of the Proceedings of the Geological Society, read
November 2nd, 1843.

Vlll PREFACE.

The mat^als for a General History of the island are ap-
parently copious^ but in reality very scanty^ as a close exa-
mination will show that the majority of the nnmerous
writers of later years have gone on borrowing from their
predecessors without materially adding to the information
previouslypossessed^ and ofttimeswithout any acknowledge-
ment. Tradition runs^ that on the Scottish conquest of
the island in 1270^ Mary^ the daughter of Reginald, last
king but one of the race of Goddard Crov&n, and lawful
heir to the crown on the death of her uncle Magnus with-
out issue, was secretly conveyed away with all the public
deeds and charters, and that thence has arisen the dearth
of records prior to that pmod.

It is a happy circumstance 'that the Chronicle of Man
and the Isles, commencing at the period of the Norman
Conquest of England, and continued to that of the Scottish
Conquest of Man, written by the Monks of Rushen Abbey,
has been preserved. It seems to have been conveyed at
this latter time to the Abbey of Fumess in Lancashire, of
which Rushen was a dependent, and ultimately to have
been deposited in the British Museum, where it now is.
It was abridged by Camden for his history, and was also
published, with an English translation, by Mr. Johnstone,
rector of Maghera-Cross, in his ' Antiquitates Celto-Nor-
manicse,' printed at Copenhagen in 1786. I have used a
copy of the latter, belonging to the library of the Univer-
sity of Cambridge. I have not had an opportunity of
closely comparing the two, though I took notes from an

PREFACE. IX

old copy of Camden in the University library ; but it ap-
pears from Mr. Gough's edition in 1789 that they were
printed from two different manuscripts^ and he prefers
that of Camden to Mr. Johnstone^s^ because in the latter
the dates have been corrected in the margin by the editor ;
but in Camden's manuscript itself they are correct. Cam-
den begins with the death of Edward the Confessor in
1065, and Johnstone forty-seven years sooner. Camden's
ends A.D. 1266, the Scottish Conquest, but has been con-
tinued by a later hand till 1316. Johnstone's copy ends
in 1376, and contains some additional matter foreign
to the history of the island. They are no doubt both
ancient; and I think it probable that after the removal to
Fumess a copy may have been made from that which
Camden followed somewhere towards the close of the four-
teenth century, and that this is the copy followed by John-
stone. The change of hand at the date 1266 in Camden's
copy is extremely interesting, and seems to me an indica-
tion of its genuineness. James Chaloner, Esq., Governor
of the Isle of Man under Lord Fairfax in 1658, and Wil-
liam SachevereU, Esq., Governor from 169J to 1696, have
each left an account of the, island of extreme interest, of
which I have had copies by me continually in drawing up
the civil and ecclesiastical history portion of this volume.

Through the kindness of Mark Quayle, Esq., Clerk of
the BoUs, I have had the use of a manuscript in his pos-
sessiou, written at the close of the civil wars by a gentle-

a 5

X PREFACE.

man, an unknown author, who states that he retired hither
from Wales during the troubles of that period. As I find
the restoration of the island to Charles, son of James the
illustrious seventh Earl of Derby, in 1660, recorded in the
same hand as that of the rest of the manuscript, but the
name of his successor William, in 1672, in a different hand,
we must determine the date of this manuscript history
between those two periods. I am inclined to think that
this manuscript was used by Governor Sacheverell in his
account ; for he states in his introduction that " there is
not one who has given any tolerable account of the isle
except Mr. James Chaloner, Governor for Lord Fairfax,
and the gentleman (who has not been so kind as to trans-
mit his name to posterity) out of whose papers I have
drawn the ensuing essay ;'^ and on comparing Mr. Quayle's
manuscript with SacheverelFs account, I find that in some
places they agree almost word for word. This manuscript is
well-worthy of being published : it was seen by Mr. Feltham,
who refers to it in his Tour through the Island, published in
1798. In 1731, Waldron's description of the Isle of Man
was published in folio { it is more a romance than a history,
and abounds in some of the strangest legends of his day,
and in vulgar abuse of the ecclesiastical rule of Bishop
Wilson. Bishop Wilson himself drew up a short account,
which appears in his works edited by Crutwell ; it is very
valuable as a faithful continuation of the former accounts,
and gives a clear insight into the condition of the island in

PREFACE. XI

his episcopate of more than half a century : I have found
it extremely useful in many points pertaining to the eccle-
siastical history of the isle.

Seacombe's * Memoirs of the House of Stanley/ 1783,
borrows largely from Sacheverell in the description of the
Isle of MaQ, but famishes valuable additional information,
and is a useful book. There is also in 12mo a history of
the island by Rolt in 1782.

Feltham's Tour in 1797-98 is a very faithful statement,
and as the materials of it were collected in the various
parishes with much personal labour, it is by far the most
trustworthy of more modem accounts.

Mr. Wood's accoimt, to which allusion has already been
made, contains much information not elsewhere to be met
with, and may be well studied.

We have also Quayle's ' Agricultural Survey of the Isle
of Man,' drawn up for the consideration of the Board of
Agriculture in 1794, and reprinted inl811, and the 'Report
of His Majesty's Commissioners for the Isle of Man,' 1792,
both of them standard books of reference, as also are Mill's
' Ancient Ordinances and Statute Laws of the Isle of Man,'
and a book entitled ' Isle of Man Charities,' published in
1831. Of Townley's Journal, Bullock's History, and
Jeffery's Description, I can only say that perhaps it would
have been better had they not been written.

The latest and most complete work is that of Mr. Train,
in two volumes 8vo, in which he has brought together.

XU PREFACE.

with much labour and research^ a great variety of docu-
ments bearing on our insular history^ and has elucidated
from external records the more obscure portion lying be-
tween the fifth and tenth centuries^ as well as checked the
chronology of the Bushen Chronicle by comparison with
the ^ Norse Sagas and Indi Annals. For thia portion of
the civil history I have constantly referred to his account.
It is to be regretted that in the later portion of his work
he has not sufficiently distinguished between what is and
what was^ and that from his residing at a distance from
the island he has been obliged to trust to the reports of
persons not always the best qualified to give information :
he has thus been unwittingly led into several grave errors.

I do not feel responsible for the orthography of Manx
names, which never appear to have been fixed by any defi-
nite authority. The name of the island itself is variously
written Man and Mann by the best writers and in public
documents, in some of which we also find it written Manne.
The first which I have adopted seems to be that in more
general use.

As connected with the ancient history of the island, I
have given at page 34 the date a.d. 947 to the building of
Castle Rushen, from an oak-beam discovered in some re-
pairs in 1815, in which it occurs in relief along with cer-
tain apparently very ancient characters. This is not to
be taken as the date of the great central pile forming the
keep, of which the architecture is of the twelfth century.

PREFACE. XUl

with some windows of later insertion, but of that portion
of it which forms the Sally-port, which is plainly of more
ancient workmanship. Some doubt has been expressed as
to the genuineness of this date from the employment of
the Arabic numerals. Mr. Hallam, in his Introduction to
the 'Literature of Europe/ vol. i. p. 150, refers to a com-
mon literary tradition, ascribing the introduction of these
numerals into Europe from the Saracens by Gerbert, near
the close of the tenth century. It is however somewhat
singular that we have another example to bring forward of
the apparent employment of these figures in a very early
record connected with the Isle of Man. In a note to the
second canto of Sir Walter Scott's ' Lord of the Isles,' an
account is given of an ancient chalice, bearing in Saxon
black letter, very distinct, the following legend : —

"fSSto: Sfollti^: f&itb* WMm* ^ndjpiiT: IBe: II

e^: jbjpst: S90: Sfbti: B&: II €U&i SIDrra: gpa: ji
S^tit: €Uui: Si: gr: II 930: <^at: <»imi: \\r

proposed to be read thus : " Ufo Johannis Mich Magni
Principis de Hr Manae Yich Liahia Magryneil et Sperat
Domino Jhesu Dari Clementiam Illorum Opera. Fecit
Anno Domini 993. Onili Oimi.'' — Lard of the Isles, p.
207, ed. 1833.

Some doubt has been thrown upon the genuineness of
this inscription, inasmuch as there is no recorded Magnus
Prince of Man of so early a date as 993. It is clear, how-

XIV PREFACE.

ever, that a question may be raised whether this date is
read rights for only the Arabic figures 93 occur in the in-
scription^ and the position of the (Ht) leads us to presume it
may have been misread for lit (Nostri), or d^ {Mille) ; the
date may perhaps be 1093^ at which period Magnus Bare-
foot (as will be seen in p. 46^ chap. 6 of this work) had
seized upon and was actually in possession of the Land of
Man. It has been supposed that both in the case of this
chahce and of the carved oak-beam in Castle Rushen^ the
dates have been inserted at a later period. It may be so ;
the two circumstances are however worth recording; and
it may be as well to note that there is some evidence that
Arabic figures were in use before the method of calculating
by them was understood ; and it appears from a note in
Mr. Hallam^s ' Literature of Europe/ vol. i. p. 150, that
there is in the British Museum a manuscript (number 343
of the Arundel MSS.) which has been referred to the twelfth
century by some competent judges, in which the author
uses nine digits, but none for ten or zero, as is also the
case in a MS. of Boethius. This I suspect is the case also
on the chalice under consideration.

With respect to the date on a doorway in Castle
Rushen, mentioned in p. 62, I have learnt that it is a
forgery.

An interesting relic of Peel Cathedral is preserved,
which I have not mentioned in the body of the work, viz.
the remains of a painted window, in which, amongst other

PREFACE. XV

devices, we have connected with the arms of Man the sin-
gular monogram of Matthew Parker, Archbishop of Can-
terbury. It is a valuable addition to the links which con-
nect Queen Elizabeth with this isle ; the others will be
read of at pages 59 and 95. It is in the possession of the
family of the late Clerk of the Rolls.

My thanks are greatly due to the President and Council
of the Geological Society for their kindness in allowing me
the use of the Uthographic stones, from which have been
taken Plates I. and II., containing the general map of the
island and the southern basin denuded of the tertiary for-
mations. The map of the southern basin, including the
tertiary formations ; the map of Poolvash Bay ; the map
of the island in 1595, and several new sections taken on
diflFerent traverses. at several parts of the island, together
with some slight emendations on sections previously pub-
lished, will, I hope, be found desirable additions to the
geological portion of this work.

I am under great personal obligation to our leading
geologists for the very kind interest they have expressed in
the work, many of whose names appear as subscribers to
it. Independently of their suggestions at various times in
tracing out the geology of this area, the catalogues of
fossils have been greatly increased by their kind inspection
of the contents of my cabinet ; in this particular I would
mention with gratitude the names of Count Keyserling,
the eminent States^ Geologist of Russia; D. T. Ansted,

XVl F&EFACE.

Esq., F.R.S. and G.S., Professor of Geology, King's Col-
lege, London ; E. Forbes, Esq., F.R.S., L.S. and, G.S.,
Professor of Botany iiL the same University, and Palieon^
tologist to the Ordnance Survey of Great Britain; and
also of my friend John Morris, Esq., F.G.S., of Kensington.
The late Mr. Gilbertson also, whose name is well known
in connexion with the fossils of the Carboniferous lime-
stone, did me great service in naming several species of
Brachiopoda which I submitted to him.

My most grateful acknowledgements are still further
due to Professor Edward Forbes for the very valuable
paper which he has contributed to this work on the Flora
of this his native isle. His labours in its marine fauna
are already well known, both from his work entitled
^ Malachologia Monensis,^ and also the more extensive
undertaking and most valuable volume, the ' British Star-
fishes.'

To the Board of Northern Lights, Edinburgh, and to
their engineer, Allan Stevenson, Esq., an expression of my
best thanks is tendered for the very liberal manner in
which they have placed at my disposal the whole of their
volumes of meteorological observations made at the Point
of Ayr and Calf of Man Lighthouse during the last twenty-
five years.

My thanks are due to my kind friend, George Kemp,
Esq., M.D., of St. Peter's College, Cambridge, for a deter-
mination by analysis of the per-centage of lime in the Plei-

PREFACE. XVU

stocene marls of the north and south of the island. Edward
Delamotte^ Esq.^ Professor of Landscape Drawing in the
Mihtary College^ Sandhurst^ has my warmest thanks for
the extremely faithM manner in which he has expressed
upon stone the geological features of the country, and
greatly added to the embellishment of this work. I have
to acknowledge also favours of the pencil from my friend
Alfred Lemon, Esq., and my quondam pupil Mr. Kxigh
Kewley.

My grateful acknowledgements are due to Mark Quayle,
Esq., Clerk of the Rolls, as well for the use of the ancient
MS. history of the island before noticed, as for much
valuable information on legal subjects connected with the
civil and ecclesiai§tical history of the isle.

I owe similar acknowledgements to many other gentle-
men holding official appointments, and also to those con-
nected with the different mining companies.

To the Venerable the Archdeacon and the Clergy gene-
rally, I tender my best thanks for the readiness with which
they have answered my inquiries on many points con-
nected with the Church of the Isle of Man.

F. C. Skrimshire, Esq., Her Majesty's Agent for the
Woods and Forests, has furnished me with valuable details
of that portion of the insular revenue with which he is con-
nected. To the late lamented Robert M^Guffog, Esq., I
am indebted for the return of the income and expenditure
in the Customs' department.

XVIU PREFACE.

. Samuel Harris^ junior^ Esq.^ Tithe Agent for the Island,
has most liberally supplied me with the details of the
ecclesiastical revenue ; and I am indebted for an account
of the herring-fishery to Mr. James Mackenzie, officer of
the Isle of Man fisheries.

In throwing so much matter into the Appendix, I have

acted on a desire to remove as much as possible dry details

from the body of the work, so that it might read as one

continuous narrative. The Appendix, as it has cost me

more labour, so it will be found to contain the most im-

I portant information in the book. The headings of the

' chapters form a kind of general index to their contents.

{ It may be desirable for those who are not interested in

I geological questions, to omit Chapters X. and XV.

• J. G. C.

King William's College, Isle of Man,
May Ist, 1848.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Page

Ancient legend of the Isle of Man — allegorical of its early his-
tory. — The interest which may be excited by the study pf
the physical history of a country. — General statement of the
physical changes which have passed over the Isle of Man. —
Geology not a mere speculative science, but an enunciation
of established facts.— First view of the Isle of Man.— Erro-
neous impression as to its size ; how produced. — Its varying
appearance as presented at different points of the compass.
— ^This variety produced by the varied action of certain phy-
sical causes. — The great natural agents which have modified
the crust of the earth. — ^The records of the Palaeozoic period
in the Isle of Man. — Great gap between it and the Tertiary,
as there developed. — The glacial epoch. — ^The more recent
physical changes and present character of the Island 1

CHAPTER II.

Douglas Bay — Panorama on entering it. — ^The past and present
condition of the town. — Rambles in its neighbourhood — ^to
Baldwin, Kirk Braddan, the Nunnery 12

CHAPTER III.

Road from Douglas to Castletown. — Port Soderic. — Beautiful
scenery. — Natural caves. — Intrusive greenstone. — Axis of
elevation. — ^Transport of boulders. — Barrows and Cromlechs.
— ^Action of drift-ice and icebergs. — ^The ancient condition of
the Isle of Man as a chain of smaller islands. — Santon-bum,
Ballalona, Fairies 22

XX • CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IV.

The Sheading of Rushen. — General view of the southern area
of the island.— The Eye of the Calf .—Spanish Head.— Port
Erin.— Port St. Mary.— Ballasalla.— Rushen Ahbey.— Castle
Rushen. — King William's College. — Langness. — ^The great
natural features of this Sheading. — Ellipsoidal hills of the
boulder formation. — Great drift-gravel platform. — ^Valleys of
denudation. — Estuary deposits. — Notice of the agriculture of
the island. — Hints on drainage 32

CHAPTER V.

Lucian's dialogues. — The physical constitution of Man. — ^The
old Abbey-bridge. — ^Monks and mills. — ^The Abbey of Rushen.
— ^Ancient tripartite division of insular tithes. — Present mis-
application of the Abbey-third. — The Abbot stone of Rushen.
—The Creggins Hill.— Drift-gravel platform.— Skybright.
— Malew Church. — Recent changes in the level of the land 42

CHAPTER VI.

The ancient Castle of Rushen — ^The ramparts^ the moat, the
glacis, the keep.-— Well in the drift-gravel. — ^The Derby
family. — Bishop Wilson. — ^View from the castle walls. — The
town. — The old chapel and clock-room. — Legend of the
Black Lady. — Hango Hill. — Limestone blocks in the boulder
clay. — ^WiUiam Dhone. — Skeletons. — King William's Col-
lege. — ^Ancient foundation. — ^Advice of the Earl of Derby to
his son. — Bishop Barrow. — The Isle of Man an ancient seat
of learning ..- 58

CHAPTER VII.

Castletown Bay. — The Scraans. — The race-course. — Sir Isaac
Newton. — Measures of time and space. — The measure of a
man. — ^The former extent of the drift-gravel. — Time occupied
in its erosion and in the formation of the Irish Sea. — Con-
sideration of time arising from the composition of a gravel
bed. — The circuit of Langness. — ^Trap-dykes, Bosses, Natural
arches. — Round tower. — Porphyry. — St. Michael's Isle. —
Ruined oratory.- The old fort 11

CONTENTS. XXI

CHAPTER VlII.

The port of Derbyhaven — Its great natural advantages. — Sin-
gularly embraces in its circuit every rock and soil in the
ishind. — ^The battle-field of Ronaldsway. — Great events of
the thirteenth century. — The Scottish conquest. — Richard
Mandeville, the Irish freebooter. — ^The lower limestone fossils
of Ronaldsway. — Skillicore bosses. — ^Great disturbance at
Coshnahawin. — ^Valley of Santon-bum. — M'Culloch in error 96

CHAPTER IX.

View from the Brough. — ^Varying composition of the pleisto-
cene marls. — Return to Castletown. — Notice of recent raised
beaches at various points along the coast. — Remarkable un-
dulations of the limestone beds at the Stack of Scarlet caused
by the protrusion of basaltic rocks. — Glacial striations, groo-
vings and indentations. — ^Mud glaciers not solving the phse-
nomena. — Recent action of littoral ice at Cape Blomidon in
the Bay of Fundy affording a clue to the true solution. —
Probable gradual sinking of this ared at the beginning of the
glacial period 112

CHAPTER X.

The trap rocks of Scarlet. — Evidences of successive volcanic
eruptions. — Great thickness of trappean beds. — Fossils of
the trap-tuff. — ^The Posidonian schist interposed in it. — Pro-
bable extent and duration of the black marble quarries. — The
economy of their working. — ^The Poolvash limestone. — Great
abundance in it of the fossils of the Lower Scar limestone
of Yorkshire. — Pleistocene beds at Strandhall. — Singular
stalactitic concretions 122

CHAPTER XI.

Strandhall. — Submerged forest. — Has the land gone down or
the sea come up? — ^The great fault. — Denudations. — Ken-
traugh. — ^The Giants' Quoiting-stones. — ^The Runic Cross. —
Port St. Mary. — Perwick Bay. — Coast scenery.— Spaloret
and the Chasms. — The Samphire-gatherers. — Spanish Head.
— Rumpy cats.— rThe. Calf Islet and Cow Harbour. — The city

XXll CONTENTS.

of the Conies. — Bushel's house. — Boss of gravel in the Calf
of Man. — Icehergs again. — Diluvium. — ^The legend of Kitter
and the sword Macbuin 139

CHAPTER XII.

Port Erin. — St. Catherine's Well. — Brada Head and Copper
Mine. — ^View from Grammah. — Fairy Hill, Fleshwick Bay.
— Manx peasantry, cabins, carranes, and Sunday blankets. —
Origin of the names Lezayre and Arboiy. — ^The Friary. —
Upper limit of the boulder-clay. — Grenaby. — St. Mark's.
—The Black Fort and Sir Walter Scott.— Granite blocks and
Goddard Crovftn's Stone. — Structure of granite. — Bubble of
South Barrule. — ^Ascent of the mountain. — ^Evidence of great
cataclysmal action. — Strike of parallel mountain-chains. —
Mines and Minerals. — Slieauwhallin. — ^Witchcraft. — Tjm-
wald Mount. — Ancient ceremonies 164

CHAPTER XIII.

Peel.— The Castle.— The Round Tower.— The Cathedral.-
The Crypt.— Duchess of Gloucester.- Thomas Earl of War-
wick. — The Guard-room. — The Moddey Dhoo. — Scenery
about Peel.— Glen Helen.— The Rennass Waterfall.— Glen
Darragh. — St. Trinian's Chapel. — Coast-road from Peel to
Kirk Michael. — Geological features. — Glen Willan. — Kirk
Michael. — Bishop Wilson. — ^Discipline of the Manx Church 187

CHAPTER XIV.

Bishop's Court.— The Grounds.— The Chapel.— Onys Head.
— Probable continuation of limestone series in the north of
the Island. — Formation of the Curragh. — Ballaugh. — Jurby.
— ^Megaceros marl-pits. — Use of marl. — Overthrown ancient
forests. — Ancient lakes. — Legend of Mirescogh. — Sulby Glen.
— Snaefell.— The Bride Hills.— Admiral Thurot.— The Ayre.
— Point Cranstal. — Grand development of Boulder series.
—Ramsey.— Ballure Glen.— Sky Hill.— Port-le-Voillen.—
Kirk Maughold.— The Holy Well.— Vision of Gil Colum.—
TheDhoon granite. — Laxey. — Orry's Cairn. — Cloven Stones.
—Return to Douglas 207

CONTENTS. XXUl

CHAPTER XV.

Page
Lithological character of the Isle of Man. — Granite Bubbles. —
Great extent of schistose formations. — The Isle of Man ex-
isting as such in the Devonian period. — No disturbance be-
tween the Old Red conglomerate and Carboniferous lime-
stone. — ^The lower and upper Limestone series. — Eruption
of Trap rocks and interpolation in Carboniferous beds. —
Great gap between the Carboniferous and Glacial deposits.
—The Glacial epoch. — Subsidence and emergence of the
Island. — Its present condition ' 237

APPENDIX.

A. On the name of the Isle of Man 255

B. The Civil History of the Island, including an account

of the Customs, Revenue, Receipt and Expenditure,
with a Catalogue of Governors to the present time . 257

C. On the geographical position and extent of the Isle of

Man, and its population at different periods 280

D. The Act of Settlement : 284

E. Amount and distribution of the insular tithe 285

F. The Act of Surrender made by Reginald to the See of

Rome 289

G. Account of James, seventh Earl of Derby, with a table

of the genealogy of the house of Athol, so far as re-
lates to the separation of the Isle of Man from the

Derby Family 290

H. A detailed account of King WiUiam's College, Castle-
town 300

I. On the per-centage of lime in the boulder clay formation 305

K. Mines, minerals and quarries 306

L. The Manx fisheries and the number of vessels of all
kinds observed passing the Calf of Man and Point of

Ayre in the year 1847 311

M. On the Manx language 315

N. The Life of Bishop Thomas A^ilson 322

0. Disciphne of the Manx Church 334

^•efc- ^^^. -fi^_— a

XXIT CONTENTS.

P. Catalogue of the Bishops of Sodor and Man, with the

origin of the See and its name 338

Q. List of the Carhoniferous fossils of the Isle of Man . . 354

R. List of fossils of the Pleistocene period 359

S. On the Flora of the Isle of Man, hy Professor E. Forbes 360
T. Meteorological tables compiled from the register kept

at the Point of Ayre and Calf of Man Lighthouses. . 364

CORRIGENDA ET ADDENDA.

Page 51, line l,Jbr 1237 read 1265.
Page 62, line 5, for 1103 read 1011.
Page 149, foot-note, ^r Erithmum read Critbmimi.
Page 286, tMert Bradden glebe 30 acres. Also note that all the parisbet
are vicarages, excepting Andreas, Ballaugfa and Bride.
Appendix Q. Since printing the list of fossils I have been able to make
a slight addition to the catalogue of the Upper or Poolyash limestone series,
viz.

PleurotoQUffia Eliana, DeKoninck.
Cypridina annulata, DeKoninck,
Baphnia primseva (?), APCoy.
I am also indebted to Professor E. Forbes for the identiiicatioB of some
fossils in my cabinet with the samples from the Irish Carboniferous series as
figured by M'Coy in his ' Synopsis.'

Chonetes tuberculata (the C. sarcinulata of my Catalogue).
Pecten concavus.
Pecten flabellulum (?).

Platychysma Jamesii (?) (the Fleurotomaria lineata of my Cat»>
. logne).

Loxonema impendens.
Orthis cylindria.
Psammodus porosus.
PetaloduSy vncertahL

DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES.

Plate I.

1, General Map of the Isle of Man, coloured geologically, with a
Table of Signs and Colours. The outer dotted line represents
the coast at low- water; the continuous coast-line is high-water-
mark.

2. General Section across the south-western part of the Island from
Lhergydhoo, north-east of Peel, across the granite boss on South
Barrule to Langness Point, south-east of Castletown.

Plate II.

Geological Map of the Limestone Basin and other parts of the
southern district of the Island, as it is supposed they would ap-
pear if denuded of the gravels, sands and clays of the Tertiary
period.

This Map exhibits the relations of the Carboniferous hmestone to
the Old Red sandstone formation and the great Schistose series
of the Island, and the intersection and contortion of this area by
igneous rocks.

Plate III.

In this Map we have included the Tertiary formations denuded in
Plate II. The different shades of yellow and green represent the
Boulder-clay, the Drift-gravel and the newest Marine and Fresh-
water alluvium with raised beaches, and exhibit the formation
of long valleys of denudation during a period of elevation of the

XXVl DESCRIPTION OP THE PLATES.

Island, and the manner in which some portions of the Tertiary
series have been preserved by the peculiar arrangement of the
palaeozoic rocks.

Plate IV.

Map of the Isle of Man in 1595, performed by Thomas Durham, aa
given in Camden's * Britannia,' Speed's * Chronicles,' Chaloner's
' History,' and Bleau's ' Atlas,' published at Amsterdam. It ex-
hibits ancient lakes both in the north and south of the Island,
which are now drained.

Plate V.

1. Ground Plan of a portion of Poolvash Bay, as seen at low-water
at the mouth of the streamlet which flows from Balladoole into
the sea. It exhibits a remarkable series of Bosses on the surface
of the limestone, caused apparently by the intrusion of trap
rocks, which are abundant in that neighbourhood.

2. Section North and South magnetic in the above Plan across the
Bosses, showing the undulations.

Plate VI.

1. Ground Plan (coloured geologically) exhibiting the details of
the Coast from Ronaldsway, near Derby Haven, to Coshnahawin,
at the mouth of the Santon-bum, and marking the position of the
faults, cracks and axes of disturbance connected with the eleva-
tion of the Brough, and the formation of a series of Bosses in
connection with trap dykes along the axes of disturbance.

Sections 1, 2, 3 and 4 to the above Plan, are intended to illustrate
the elevation of the Brough at the mouth of the Santon-bum,
and the manner in which the Bosses may be supposed to have
been formed by the intrusion of trap amongst the pebbles of the
old red conglomerate. The letters of reference, O P, A T, S R,
Q K, show the direction of the lines of section.

Plate VII.

Various Sections exhibiting the arrangement of the different forma-
tions in the South of the Island, the intersection of the area by

DESCRIPTION OP THE PLATES. XXVll

dykes of trap and porphyritic greenstone^ and the consequent
faults and undulations of the surface.

1. Section from Brada Head to Coshnahawin^ showing the denuda-
tion of the older rocks after the formation of the great faults and
undulations^ the deposit of the tertiary gravels, sands and boulder-
clays on the abraded siuface, and the formation of alluvial basins
by the action of the sea, during a still subsequent elevation of this
area.

2 & 3. Sections from the Mull Hills to Langness, and from Black
Hill to Scarlet Head, illustrating the formation of the stratified
trap-tuff with the included Posidonian schist.

4. Ground Plan, showing the ramifications of trap when traversing
beds of the Old Red conglomerate on the eastern side of Castle-
town Bay. See page 84 of this work.

5. Section near the Stack of Scarlet, exhibiting the contortion of
the Umestone and the trap-tuff by a second volcanic disturbance.

6. Section at the Calf of Man, showing the remarkable position of a
mass of stratified gravel and sand at an elevation of nearly 400
feet above the present sea-level. See page 155 of the present
work.

Plate VIH.

1. Section in the North of the Island from the mountain range near
Ballaugh to Jurby Point, showing the foimation of the great
Curragh and the freshwater marl basins, in which have been
found the remains of the great Irish Elk.

N.B. The arrangement of the Umestone and Old Red con-
glomerate is theoretical, as detailed in the body of the
work, page 210.

2. Section through Hango Hill and King William's College to the
Creggins, exhibiting the CUff of Boulder Clay and the arrange-
ment of the drift-gravel and alluvium.

3. Section at the mouth of Glen Willan, near Kirk Michael, showing
a valley of denudation in the drift-gravel and boulder clay, with
terraces of alluvium at different levels.

ZXVUl

ARRANGEMENT OF THE VIEWS.

Page

View of King William's College from the Creggins, with Hango
Hill, Castletown Bay and Langness Round Tower in the

distance... for Frontispiece.

Distant View of the Island to face 4

Runic Cross and Old Font in the Churchyard of Braddan, and

Stone Coffin-lid at Rushen Ahhey 20

The Creggins Hill from the Silverbum • 54

Natural arch on Langness 88

Coshnahawin at the mouth of the Santon-bum 108

Castletown from the Stack of Scarlet, showing the contortion

of the Limestone beds 124

Spanish Head from the Chasms 150

Peel Cathedral from Orry's Head 196

Portion of the Mountain range between Sulby Glen andBishop's
Court, as seen from Andreas Churchyard 222

LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.

Adcock, W. R., Esq., Shepperton. 2 copies.

Adcock, Mrs., Shepperton.

Allen, W. A., Esq., Preston, Lancashire.

Alsop, the Rev. J. R., M.A., West Houghton, Lancashire.

Alsop, J., Esq., Linton, Kent.

Ansted, D. T., Esq., M.A., F.R.S., F.G.S., Professor of Geology in

Ring's College, London. 5 copies.
Ashbumer, Rev. J., M.A., Linton, Kent.

B.
Backhouse, Major T., Castletown.
Bacon, Capt., Seafield.

Barker, Rev. W. G., M.A., Matlock, Derbyshire.
Barrett, Thomas, Esq., Woodspring House, Clevedon.
Barstowe, G., Esq., Garrow-hill, York.
Barton, Rev. J., King William's College, Castletown.
Bennett, 'J., Esq., Ballacosnahan.

Bentley, Dame Elizabeth Fane, Belgrave-square, London.
Bentley, Geo. Fred. Aubre, Esq., Barrister-at-Law, Belgrave-square,

London.
Bentley, George M'Intosh Mahon Corry, Esq., Belgrave-square,

London.
Bentley, W. Fred. Mahon Corry, Esq., M.D., Doon, Roscommon.
Black, J., Esq., M.D., F.G.S., Manchester.
Blackburn, Rev. J., M.A., Attercliffe, Yorkshire.
Blamire, Mrs., 36 Upper Harley-street, London.
Bowman, Rev. Edw. HeswaH, Nestori, Cheshire.
. Biidson, Mrs., Ballasalla.

Brown, Rev. Abner W., M.A., Pytchley, Northamptonshire.
iTrown, John, Esq., F.G.S., Stanway, Colchester*
Brown, Rev. Joseph, B.A., Kirk Michael.
Buckland, The Very Rev. W., D.D., F.R.S., L.S. & G.S., Dean of

Westminster.

XXX LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.

Bunch, Rev. J., D.D., Fellow and Bunar of Emmanuel College,

Cambridge.
Butterton, Rev. O., D.D., Settle, Yorkshire.

Cain, Mr. Robert, Ballasalk.

Campbell, Lieut.-Col. James, Douglas.

Campbell, Mrs., Edinburgh. 2 copies.

Calvert, Edw., Esq., Full-street, Derby.

Cannell, Mr. C. J., Douglas.

Carey, Clarence, Esq., Spring Valley. 2 copies.

Casey, William, Esq., Douglas.

Chapman, W., Esq., Castle Lawn^ Douglas.

Charlesworth, E., Esq., F.G.S., York.

Cholmondeley, Thomas, Esq., Castletown.

Christian, E., Esq., Douglas.

Christian, John, Esq., M.A., late Deemster, MiUtown.

Christian, Rev. W. B., M.A., Vicar of Lezayre.

Clague, R. D., Esq., Comptroller of Customs, Galway.

Clarke, Rev. J., St. Mark's, Isle of Man.

Clarke, Rev. W., M.D., F.R.S., Professor of Anatomy, Cambridge.

2 copies.
Cbirke, W. N., Esq., Derby Castle.
Clayton, Mrs. S., Linton, Kent.
Collinson, A., Esq., New-cross, London.
Connall, M., Esq., Mount Gawne.
Conybeare,TheVeryRev. W.,M.A., F.R.S. & G.S., Dean of Llan-

daff. 2 copies.
Conybeare, Rev. W. J., M.A., Principal of Collegiate Institution,

LiverpooL
Corlett, Thos. Arthur, Esq., Vicar-General, lUmsey. 2 copies.
Corlett, William, Esq., Ballamona, BaUaugh.
Corrin, Mr. Robert, Peel.
Corrin, Rev. W., Rushen, Isle of Man.
Comwallis, The Bight Honourable James, Earl, Linton Park, Kent.

2 copies.
Coulthurst, Mrs., Douglas.
Cowle, Mrs., Andreas. 2 copies.
Craine, J., Esq., M.D., Ramsey.
Crye, Mr. Robert, Birkenhead.

LIST OP SUBSCRIBERS. XXXI

CubboDj M/. R., Castletown.

Gumming, The Rev. Professor, M.A., F.R.S. & G.S., North

Runcton, Lynn, Norfolk. 3 copies.
Gumming, Sir WilUam J. Gordon, Bart., F.6.S., Altyre, Forres, N.B.

2 copies.
Cummings, Rev. C. J., M.A., Cheadle, Cheshire.

Davison, H. C, Esq., King William's College.

Delamotte, Edward, Esq., College-terrace, Bagshot.

De Renzy, Major G. W., Dundee, N.B.

Dixon, Rev. Robt., M.A., Principal of King William's College, Isle

of Man. 3 copies.
Dixon, Thomas H., Esq., New Boswell Court, Lincoln's Inn.
Douglas, Miss, Lower Halliford, Middlesex.
Drinkwater, His Honour Deemster, Ramsey. 2 copies.
Drury, Rev. William, Braddan.
Duff, Adam, Esq., Blackheath, Kent.
Duggan, Rev. William, Marown.
Dumbell, Miss, Atholl-street.
Dutton, the Misses, Villa Marina, Douglas.

E.
Egerton, Sir Philip De Malpas Grey, Bart., M.P., F.R.S., Oulton

Park, Cheshire.
EUerton, John, Esq., Trinity College, Cambridge.
Emmanuel College, Cambridge, Library of.
Evans, Frederick J., Esq., Admiralty Survey.

Farrant, Mrs., Jurby.

Faught, Rev. G. S., Montpellier, Hastings.

Fellowes, Mrs., Ballasalla.

Fielden, Mrs. Oswald, Weston Rectoiy, Shifinall.

Forbes, David, Esq., Norway.

Forbes, Edward, Esq., F.R.S., L.S. & G.S., Professor of Botany,

King's College, London. 3 copies.
Forbes, Rev. E., M.A., St. George's, Douglas.
Forbes, Mrs., Malew.
Forster, Richard, Esq., White House^ Gateshead, Durham. 3 copies.

rxxii LIST OP subscribers. ".J^TZl

Garvey, Rev. R., M.A., St. John's, Wakefield.

Gawne, Edward M., Esq., Kentraugh. 12 copies.

Gedge, Rev. Sidney, M.A., Grammar School, Birmingham.

Gell, James, Esq., Advocate, Castletown.

Gelling, Rev. Samuel, Kirk Santon.

Geological Survey of the United Kingdom.

Gill, Rev. WiUiam, Vicar of Malew.

Gillon, James, Esq., Douglas.

Goldsmith, John, Esq., Douglas.

Gooch, Rev. J. H., M.A., Heath, Halifax,

Goodall, Miss, Portland-place, Leamington.

Griffith, Richard, Esq., F.G.S., Dublin.

Grisel, Mons. F. U., King William's College. 2 copies.

Gumey, Daniel, Esq., F.S.A.,RunctonHaIl, Lynn, Norfolk. 2copies.

Hall, Mrs., Andreas.

Hancock, Charles, Esq., 6, Crosby-square, London.

Hanwell, Lieutenant-Colonel, Castletown.

Harrison, Rev. Bowyer, Maughold.

Harrison, Edward, Esq., Preston, Lancashire.

Harrison, J. B., Esq., Douglas.

Harrison, Rev. J. E., Jurby, Isle of Man.

Harvey, Rev.Gilmour, King William's College, Castletown. 2 copies.

Haslam, W., Esq., Cooley Lodge, Kirk Michael.

Henslow, Rev. J. S., M.A., F.R.S. & G.S., Professor of Botany,

Cambridge.
Heslop, Rev. R., M.A., Ilton, Ilminster.
Heywood, J. J., Esq., Deemster, Bemahague. 3 copies.
Hill, Thomas, Esq:, Portwood Hall, Stockport. 3 copies.
HoUis, R. Pelham, Esq., King Wilham's College, Isle of Man.
Holmes, Rev. A., Kirk Patrick, Isle of Man.
Hope, His Excellency the Hon. Charles, Lieutenant-Governor of

the Isle of Man. 5 copies.
Home, Miss, Brosely Hall, Shropshire.
Howard, Rev. John, Kirk Onchan.
Howard, Rev. Thomas, Ballaugh.

LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. XXXlU

Howard, W., Esq., B.A., Mathematical Lecturer, Sidney Sussex

College, Cambridge.
Howland, Mr. Charles, Kirk Bride.
Humfrey, Charles, Esq., M.A., Peckham. 2 copies.

Johnstone, Mrs., New Brighton, Cheshire. 2 copies.
Jones, Lloyd, Esq., Neston, Cheshire. 2 copies.
Jones, Mrs., Portland-place, Leamington.

Kayll, Mr. George, Peel.

Kelly, Mr. John, Ballacreggin, Rushen.

Kelly, J., Esq., High Bailiff, Castletown.

Kelly, Mrs., Arhory-street, Castletown.

Kelly, Mr. R. G., Market-place, Douglas.

Kelly, W., Esq., Douglas.

Kelshaw, WiUiam, Esq., Thomes, Wakefield.

Kemp, George, Esq., M.D., St. Peter's College, Cambridge.

Kenvig, Mr. J., Castletown.

Kermode, Rev. William, Ramsey.

Kershaw, T. W., Esq., Blackheath, Kent.

Kewley, James, Esq., Douglas.

King William's College, Castletown, Isle of Man, Library of. 2 copies.

Laughton, R., Esq., M.D., Castletown.
Law, Miss, Mona-terrace, Douglas.
Lemon, Alfred, Esq., Athol-street, Douglas.
Lewis, Rev. T. T., Bridstone Vicarage, Ross.
Llewellyn, Mrs., Castletown.
Lloyd, Mrs., the Parade, Castletown.
Lyons, J., Esq., M.D., Ramsey.

M.
M*Intosh, Mr., Calf of Man.
M'Meiken, Mr. J., Castletown.
Major, Stephen, Esq., Quomdon, Derby.
Man, The Honourable and Right Reverend the Lord* Bishop of.

Bishop's Court. 3 copies.
Matthews, Frank, Esq., Glynn Moore.

XXXIV LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.

Maude, £d«ir. James, Esq., Knowsthorpe House, Leeds.

Medd, John, Esq., Stockport, Cheshire.

Menteath, Alexander Stewart, Esq., Edinburgh.

Moore, The Venerable Joseph, M.A., Archdeacon of Man, Andreas.

4 copies.
Moore, Edward, Esq., Douglas.
Morris, John, Esq., F.G.S., High-street, Kensington.
Mosely, J. E., Esq., Douglas.
Murchison, Sir R. I., G.C. St.S., M.A., F.R.S., G.S., L.S., &c.,

16 Belgrave-square, London.
Murray, George M., Esq., Douglas.

N.
Nelson, Rey. John, Kirk Bride, Isle of Man.
Newham, W., Esq., B.A., Fellow of St. John's College, Cambridge.
Newmarsh, Rev. Henry, M.A., Hessle, HuU.
Niclin, Miss, Kirk Onchan.

O.
Ogden, C. R., Esq., Attorney-General for the Isle of Man, Kirby.

3 copies.
Oldenbourg, Carl, Esq., Dundas-place, Manchester.
Oldham, Edwin, Esq., Morton, Alfreton.
Oldridge, Miss, Castletown.
Oswald, H. R., Esq., H.K., Finch-road, Douglas.

Palmer, Mr. John William, Peel.

Parker, Rev. W., M.A., Linton, Kent.

Parsons, Rev. G. S., Government Chaplain, Parade, Castletown.

Petit, Rev. J., M.A., ShiffnaU, Salop.

Petit, L. H., Esq., F.R.S., London.

Phillips, Rev. A., D.D., Kenwick House, Worcester.

Phillips, Professor John, F.R.S., F.G.S., St. Mary's Hall, York.

Philpot, Rev. B., M.A., F.G.S. (late Archdeacon of the Isle of Man),

Rector of Cressingham, Norfolk.
Pictou, J., Esq., Douglas.
Pickering, Mrs. C, London.
Pierce, Mr.H., 188 Gibraltar-street, Sheffield.
Price, John, Esq., Brierly Hall, Staffordshire. 2 copies.
Primrose, Mr., Calf of Man.

LIST OF SUBSCBIBEBS. XXXV

Quayle, Mark, Esq., Clerk of the Rolls, Castletown. 3 copies.

Quayle, Mrs. J., Castletown.

Quirk, G., Esq., Receiver-General, Parville.

Quirk, James, Esq., High Bailiff of Douglas.

Quirk, R., Esq., Douglas.

Radcliffe, Mr. Charles, Andreas.

Ramsey, A. C, Esq., F.G.S., Professor of Geology, University Col-
lege, London, and Director of the Geological Survey of England.
Reade, Rev. J. B., M.A., F.R.S., Stoney Vicarage, Aylesbury.
Ready, Mrs., College-green, Castletown.

Renouard, Rev. G., M.A., F.R.S., Swanscombe, Dartford. 2 copies.
Richardson, Robert, Esq., Oakhill.
Robertson, W. H., Esq., M.D., Buxton.
Robinson, A. G., Esq., Derby Castle, Isle of Man.
Rolfe, Rev. C, M.A., Shadoxhurst, Kent.
Rolfe, John, Esq., F.G.S., Preston.
Rothwell, Mr., Malew-street, Castletown.
Ruvignes, Henry de, Esq., Douglas.

S.
Sandilands, Rev. R. B., M.A., Croydon.
Scrimshire, F. C, Esq., Stanley-terrace, Douglas.
Sedgwick, the Rev. Adam, M.A., F.R.S. & G.S., Prebendary of

Norwich, and Woodwardian Professor, Cambridge. 2 copies.
Selkirk, Dunbar James Douglas, the Earl of, F.R.S. & G.S., St.

Mary's Isle, Kirkcudbright. 2 copies.
Sheriffs, Mr., Douglas.
Simpson, R., Esq., the Cliffe, Douglas.
Skinner, Capt. G. M*Gregor, Moimt Murray.
Smith, Mr. A., Castletown.
SneU, Rev. W., Lynn, Norfolk.
Spittall, Andrew, Esq., Laureston.
Spurim, Thos. H., Esq., Kirk Onchan.
St. Asaph, The Right Rev. Thos. Vowler Short, D.D., Lord Bishop

of. 12 copies.
Stamer, Sir Loveley, Castle Lawn, Douglas.
Stamp, Charles H., Esq., Ramsay, Huntingdonshire.

ICXXVi LIST OF 8UBSCBIBEB8.

Steele, Alexander, Esq., Crescent.

Steward, Thomas, £sq.. Lower Halliford, Middlesex.

Stowell, Rev. J. L., M.A., Peel.

Stowell, Miss, Rushen Abbey, Malew.

Stowell, the Misses, Rushen Abbey.

Strickland, H. £., Esq., M.A., F.R.S. & G.S., 4 Beaumont-street,

Oxford.
Sutton, Edward, Esq., Lidiate, Liverpool.

Tandy, Edw., Esq., Eangston, Dublin.

Tate, Rey.A.,B.D.,AssistantTutor, Emmanuel College, Cambridge.

Teare, Mr. T., Ramsey. 2 copies.

Teare, Thomas M., Esq., Surgeon, Ramsey.

Thomas, Miss, Harris-terrace, Douglas.

Trollope, Capt. C.B., R.N., Bedford.

TroUope, Rev. J. J., Vicarage, Wigmore, Herefordshire.

Trollope, Rev.W., Jurby.

Tweddell, Rev. R., M.A., Halton, Cheshire. 3 copies.

Underwood, Thomas, Esq., M.D., Castletown.

Vallance, Henry, Esq., 20 Essex-street, Strand.

W.
Wakefield, Rev. Joseph, Blymhill, Salop.

Walpole, Hon. Henry, 7 Connaught-square, Hyde-park, London.
Wilders, Mrs. W., Castle Lawn, Douglas.
Willis, Rev. Robert, M.A., F.R.S. & G.S., Jacksonian Professor,

Cambridge.
Witham, James, Esq., Cliffe House, Wakefield.
Woodhouse, H., Esq., Christ's College, Cambridge.
Woods, G. A., Esq., H. K., Balladoole. 2 copies.
Worcester, The Right Rev. the Lord Bishop of. 3 copies.

York, Philosophical Society of.

CJe Sffile of iHan.

3t& l^tetorp, ]PI)psicaI, eccle£(ta£(ttcal, Cftitl,
anH Hegentiarp.

CHAPTER I.

Ancient legend of the Isle of Man — allegorical of its early history.
— ^The interest which may be excited by the study of the physical
history of a country. — General statement of the physical changes
which have passed over the Isle of Man. — Geology not a mere
speculative science, but an enunciation of estabhshed facts. —
First view of the Isle of Man. — Erroneous impression as to its
size; how produced. — Its varying appearance as presented at
different points of the compass. — This variety produced by the
varied action of certain physical causes. — The great natural agents
which have modified the crust of the earth. — The records of the
Palaeozoic period in the Isle of Man. — Great gap between it and
the Tertiary, as there developed. — ^The glacial epoch. — ^The more
recent physical changes and present character of the Island.

The earliest native history of the Isle of Man is of a
legendary character. It was thrown into the form of a
popular ballad in the sixteenth century*. It derives the
name of the Island from Mannanan-beg-mac-y-Lheirr
(little Mannanan son of Lheirr)^ an ancient king and
famous necromancer, who is said to have preserved his

* See Appendix, note A, and prefatory remarks.

THE ISLE OF HAN.

kingdom from foreign invasion by the exercise of his
magic art. At his bidding, the monntains rocked from
their foundation, the sea boUed up from its lowest depths,
volcanic fires, with sulphurous vapours and dense columns
of smoke shot forth, and thick mists enveloped the Isle in
an impenetrable mantle*.

It may be permitted us, perhaps, to regard this strange
legend simply as allegorical of the confusion and obscurity
belonging to the early history of the Isle of Man, looming
forth from a dark chaos, enveloped in thick mists of uncer-
tainty and error.

There is however a history of the Isle far more ancient
than any to which human arohives can give access, a history
inscribed on stone in ever^nduring characters by the finger
of Him that was, and is, and is to come, upon which such
darkness and uncertahxty does not rest : this is its physical
history And to those who have the patience to study,
and some earnest desire to make themselves masters of its
various chapters, it will certainly be found by far the most
mfprestine and instructive.

"S wonders of necromancy which the legend unfolds
have nothing to offer in comparison with the stupendous
reaUtiea which the geologist is permitted to read out from
the book of nature ; a volume ample and highly illustrated j
a volume, upon which when He looked on the day when it
came forth fresh from His hands, and ere yet it was marred
and blotted by man's sin, its great Maker pronomiced very
good.

The antiquary of the world turns to that chapter in its
physical history which has reference to the Isle of Man,
and he finds testimony given, in language which it is im-
possible to misunderstand, to the fact that it has been the
scene of mighty events ; that it too, small as it may seem,
* Chaloner-, History of the We of M«i. 1656, foUo, p. 9.

THE ANTIQUARY OF THE WORLD. 3

has been (so to speak) the battle-field of the elements;
that fire and water, heat and cold, have here met together
and exhausted their fury, and have left behind them either
entombed under gigantic mounds, or scattered far and
wide over its naked surface, the tokens of their power, the
fragments of their armour, and the skeletons of their hosts.
He can produce evidence from this book to show that at
one period the island heaved and tossed to and fro on a
sea of molten lava, which poured forth over its surface
through the rents formed during a time of convulsion,
whilst volcanic ashes darkened the air, or buried, as in a
living sepulchre, the inhabitants of the neighbouring seas.
He can show that at another period vast waves desolated
its fair surface, tearing up in their course the very rocks
themselves, and depositing masses of granite on the highest
mountain-tops. At one time he reads of a tropical climate
with its luxuriant vegetation of lofty palms and towering
tree-ferns adorning the land, whilst the sea around teemed
with tropical life, the ever-active coral insect filling up the
depths with its calcareous and many-coloured secretions,
and the delicate nautilus plowing the sunny surface of the
waters, and spreading forth its tiny sail to the genial in-
fluence of the primaeval trade-wind. But time hurries on
and hurries away all these fair seasons in its course, and
he reads again how arctic storms ravaged the coasts of the
lovely isle, whilst an icy ocean girt it round, lashed its
promontories and graved its shores with the weight of ice-
bergs.

The geologist beyond doubt brings strange things to
our ears, and he has so constant a habit of speaking dis-
respectful words concerning the age of our parent Earth,
that no wonder if many of her dutiful children are oflFended
at his statements, and some should affirm that he is wilfully
uttering what he knows to be false.

4 THE ISLE OF HAN.

And yet geology, rightly viewed, is no mere speculative
science. It has for its object to discover and, if possible,
classify /ac/«, and by the strictest principles of analogy, to
trace out the cause in the effect. In this latter branch it
may happen that an insufficiency of data shall impart a
measure of uncertainty to the argument as to cause; never-
theless these data are individual certainties in the mind of
the geologist, and his real object (if sincerely devoted to
his science) will henceforward be to search for phsenomena
additional to those already possessed, and not to discard
as useless what he is already assured of, because it will not
fully support him in the enunciation of causes which he
deems only probable. And it is highly desirable that all
who read a book which has to do with the structure of the
earth or any part of it, should first of all be assured of the
reality of the science on which the geologist is intent, and
the soundness of those principles on which he claims the
assent of his hearers or readers to the statements which he
has to set before them.

I remember with a feeling of melancholy pleasure the
first glimpse which I caught of the Isle of Man. It was
from the summit of Helvellyn, which, though not the
loftiest of the Cumberland mountains, presents views un-
rivalled by any of them. By my side stood a friend, as
ardent an admirer of nature^s beauties as myself, and who,
in company with the devoted metropolitan of India, has
since had opportunity enough of studying them in all the
variety which the three presidencies of that mighty empire
unfold, and who, almost alone and on foot, has penetrated
into the heart of the Himalayah chain, and contemplated
her grander features in the midst of habiliments of snow.
The day had been one of storm and cloud, and promising
no repayment for the toil of the ascent. All at once the
dense canopy which rested on the mountain seemed lifted

''_^'_

FIRST VIEW OF THE ISLE. 5

up, and underneath it the scenery, in an atmosphere cleared
by the recent tempest, came forth in its most impressive
magnificence for miles around. After dwelling awhile in
silent admiration on the sterner beauties of the nearer
landscape, our eyes rested on the westerly sea, and there in
the glory of a setting sun, floating as it seemed most tran-
quilly on the bosom of the great deep, lay the Isle of Man.
The peculiar form of the island* causes it to lose
in apparent magnitude when seen from a distance (espe-
cially from the sea) in a greater degree than is produced
optically by simply receding from an object. The reason
is this : the northern portion of the island is an almost
plane area of nearly fifty square miles, of which the
greater portion (and that portion more especially which is
close upon the northern extremity of the mountain range)
is elevated hardly more than sixty feet above the level of
the sea. In receding therefore from the island, this area
very soon sinks below the horizon, and the length of it is
sudclenly shortened by six miles when viewed from the
south-east or north-west. Again, the more elevated portion
shows very different phases as approached from different
points. The distant northern viewf is that of an abrupt
pile of mountain rent into chasms, which the nearer ap-
proach shows us as lovely glens, — Ravensdale, Sulby Glen,
Glenaldyn and Ballure. The western view is an extended
mountain chain descending rapidly to the sea on the hearer
side, more distinctly precipitous at the south-western ex-
tremity, and crossed at right angles by two valleys at Port
Erin and Peel, by which the island appears divided into
three. The southern view exhibits a gradual slope from

* See the Plate, " Distant sea-view of the island as approached
from the south-east."

t See the Plate, " View of the mountain range of the Isle of Man
from Kirk Andreas."

THE ISLE OF MAN.

the sea-level to the highest points with no distinct valleys
or chasms^ but occupied by towns^ viUages^ viUas, cottages^
corn-fields and pastures. The eastern view shows rocky
cliffs and bold headlands from 300 to 400 feet high, backed
at the distance of seven or eight miles with mountains ran-
ging from 1500 to 2000 feet above the sea, between which
and the cliffs the slope is generally easy and clothed with
verdant pasture. Now all these various appearances of the
same mass, as viewed from different points, are in reality due
to certain ancient agencies which it is one of the chief objects
of the physical history of the Isle of Man to trace out, to
classify and describe. It may be well, for the benefit of non-
geologists, to stat^ in this place a few of the leading truths
of geology to which constant reference must be made.

There are evidently two prime agents always at work
modifying the crust of the globe on which we tread, i. e.
water and fire. The farmer has a constant tendency to
lower the more elevated portions, by carrying down particle
after particle and mechanically depositing them in the hol-
lows, which would thus become ultimately filled up, and
the whole surface of the earth be reduced to a plane; the
latter helps to consolidate and harden into rocks* the sofik
materials so deposited, and ofktimes again by the agency of
those elastic forces which it generates, to break up and ele-
vate them into hills and mountain chains. It is also pretty
clear that whilst some rocks are thus deposited in horizon-
tal layers by the action of water, others by the action of fire
are poured forth in a molten or semi-fluid state from the
bowels of the earth and over its surface, or having been
once molten but cooled down into a solid state beneath the
earth, have afterwards been forced upwards through it.
Thus it has become convenient to divide rocks into two

* The term rock however is applied geologically to all the mate-
'^s of the earth's crust, hard or soft.

FALiBONTOLOGY. 7

classes under the names sedimentary or aqueous (that is
formed by water), and plutonic or igneous (that is formed
hy fire) ; it has also been observed that many of the sedi-
mentary rocks have, by the continued action of heat and
under great pressure, been altered entirely in their character
and condition ; to these the name metamorphic is applied.

It has also been determined that the different sedimen-
tary rocks composing the surface of the earth have not been
thrown together carelessly and without method, but there
is a certain order so fixed and determined, that if in one
part of the earth we find a particular rock B lying above
another A, then in every other part we may expect to meet
with the same arrangement, so that if we found A at the
surface it would be useless to dig downwards with the idea
that we should meet with B under it. And it has been
further observed, that whilst the rock A contains in it the
relics of a certain species of animals in great abundance,
the rock B contains few or perhaps none of them, but has
instead the remains of another species of animal which is
wanting in A. Sometimes the difference between the re-
mains of animals found in two contiguous rocks, A and B,
is so great as to fix the idea upon oiu* minds that all the
animals which were living whilst A was being deposited
having become extinct, or the last race of them having been
destroyed by some sudden catastrophe, those found in B
were entirely a new creation, called into existence by the
Almighty Lord of life as more adapted to an altered con-
dition of our globe. The study of tl^ese different remains
(called fossils) belongs to the science called Palaeontology,
and a classification of the different rocks composing the
earth^s crust has been proposed in accordance with certain
results obtained by that study.

Thus the oldest series of sedimentary deposits have been
grouped together as belonging to the Palaeozoic period*.
* Old-Ufe period.

THE ISLE or MAN.

A newer series^ containmg as it wonid seem a new creation
of animals^ it lias been proposed to name as belonging to the
metozaic period* ; and a still more recent class of deposits
with another set of organized beings as of the kainozoic
period t. The last of thes6 is more generaUy spoken of under
the term tertiary or mpercretaceous ; the last but one corre-
sponds very nearly with the rocks generally classed under
the older name secondary; and the third includes the re-
maining portion, which was formerly known under the terms
primary and transition.

The physical history of the Isle of Man, as read from
the characters graven on its surface, is afker all but a book
with its middle portion torn out and its preface a good deal
injuredj.

The Palaeozoic period, including the Silurian, Devonian-
and Carboniferous aeras, the dynasties respectively of Trilo-
bites, Cephalaspides and Megalichthy8§, is fairly enough
set before us, as respects bulk at least, and there are many
deeply interesting chapters in it; but the Silurian portion
has been so much knocked about and scorched by being
placed in contact with a heated surface, that we have a dif-
ficulty in making out the division of the chapters, and can
scarcely tell whether we have Upper Silurian only, or Lower
Silurian only, or Upper and Lower Silurian together.

There is however no difficulty in distinguishing the Silu-
rian from the Devonian or Old Red Sandstone sera. A
great revolution ushered in those ages when the families of
Cephalaspis, Pterichthys, Coccosteus and the Holoptychii
held the supreme power. The older dynasty was com-

♦ J»f»«Wfc.foyc period. t N«ocr.fo/c period.

X In explanation of this statement and the geological phenomena
alluded to in the remainder of this chapter, the reader may refer
to the concluding chapter of this work, which contains a sunmiaiy
of the geology of the isknd.

§ See "The Old Red Sandstone," by Hugh MiUer.

THE PALJiOZOIC PERIOD. 9

pletely upset and broken in pieces^ and its hardier mem-
bers^ after being rudely driven hither and thither and ex-
posed to continued violence^ were at length left to shift for
themselves and to take their places as they best could in
the new order of things.

Not such was the fate of their successors : though the
effflier years of their empire seem indeed to have been years
of turbulence and confusion^ and there is no doubt of
their having been a warrior race, yet t"he close of it, as far
as can be gathered from Manx physical history, was of a
peaceful character ; and when a new constitution was called
for, the sovereignty passed into the family of Megalichthys,
either in consequence of failure in the reigning line, or be-
cause the altered character of its dominions was imfitted
for the display of its peculiar endowments. And thus the
Carboniferous sera began. For a lengthened period affairs
were conducted with the greatest order and precision. The
public records, as they are handed down to us, appear to
have been very accurately made and carefully preserved,
and we can trace out the events almost of every year in the
exact order of their occurrence ; and we have a good deal of
information upon the pecuUar habits and occupations of
the different grades of society in a very densely peopled
country. It is true that at first there was a little difficulty
in arranging the elements of the new constitution, and
affairs wore a dark and gloomy aspect. But after a time
all settled down quietly, the coarser materials found their
proper level, and peace, social order and industry every-
where prevailed.

At length, from some cause or other, evidently deeply-
seated but never satisfactorily made out, a violent emeute
took place; the entire fabric of society was broken up, and
a succession of disturbances so convulsed this portion of
the empire, that amidst the confusion caused by the con-

10 THB ISLE or MAK.

flicting masses^ it is with the utmost difficulty we can trace
out the order of succession. And here the great gap in
our history occurs^ and most unfortunate is it for the pre-
sent prosperity of the island that it is so. A few stray
leaves* indicate that just at that time a deposit was being
commenced here with an eye to generations yet unborn,
which in other portions of the British dominions forms the
true capital which has set agoing the manufactures supply*
ing the world ; the capital which has made Manchester and
Leeds and Birmingham, and the other rapidly-increasing
towns of the districts of coal.

We have here no record whatever of the termination of
the Palaeozoic period, and the whole too of the secondary
series is wanting, as well as a large portion of the tertiary.
We enter upon the history again merely where it just be-
gins to end, and it is here also as much confused as where
it was so suddenly broken off near the close of the Palaeo-
zoic period. But it is soon evident what vast changes have
taken place in the physical character of the country and its
inhabitants in the interval. It was then a land of warmth
and sunshine and teeming with the vegetation of the tro-
pics, we come upon it again as a land cold, dreary and de-
solate, a treeless and barren waste. But another chapter
opens, and it speaks of this region as one of lakes and
plains; of plains stretching out and uniting it with England,
Ireland and Scotland, over which ranged and reigned the
mighty Megacerosf* And then is ushered in another pe-
riod, still a period of change, a period of sinkings and risings
again, a period when noble forests of oak, elm and pine,

* The fossil plants in the Posidonian shale of Poolvash.

t Generally known under the term Irish Elk ; it ought to have
been called Manx Elk, or Megaceros Monensis, as the first described
specimen was found in the Isle of Man, and the remains are abun-
dant for the size of the island.

THE RECENT PERIOD. 11

clothed the mountain sides and adorned the valleys and
plains^ and Mona again became an island. And last of all
comes our own aera^ in which the woods have disappeared^
the lakes one after another have been drained*^ and smil-
ing corn-fields occupy in their steady and the reign of the
beasts of the field and fishes of the sea has given way to
that of him who was created and made to have dominion
over all.

* See Plate IV., Map of the Isle of Man in 1595, performed by
Thomas Durham, as given in Camden's 'Britannia' and in Speed's
• Chronicles.*

12 THE ISLE OF MAN.

CHAPTER 11.

Douglas Bay — Panorama on entering it. — The past and present
condition of the town. — Rambles in its neighbourhood — to Bald-
win, Kirk Braddan, the Nunnery.

What a magnificent bay is this of Douglas ! bow deep the
azure whicb rests upon its waters ! Few scenes can be more
impressive than that presented to the stranger on bis arrival
by steamer on a clear calm summer's eve, eitber from
Liverpool or (the more natural communication) Fleetwood.
Thirteen or fourteen hours ^ since he may perhaps have
been in London, or he may have just fled from the smoke
and din of Birmingham, or Manchester, or Leeds.

The shape of the bay he will observe to be nearly that
presented by the concave arc of the moon when three
days old. The southern horn (the left-hand one to him
at entering) runs out into the sea as a mass of clay
schist dipping inland at a high angle, and surmounted by
the light-house. A httle further in, near and under the
battery t, he may observe some violent contortions of the
strata, and between that and Harold Tower perhaps his
eye may catch a sight of a small patch of gravel a few feet
below the level of the battery; this is a remnant of the

* A person leaving the Isle of Man at ten o'clock in the morning
will ordinarily be in Liverpool in time for the express train which
reaches London at eleven o'clock the same evening.

t This battery was erected in 1813, at which period also was re-
moved one of the most interesting relics of antiquity of which the
island had to boast, the ancient Pictish tower which stood at the
bight of the Pollock Rock, the former entrance to the harbour.
See Appendix, Note B.

DOUGLAS BAT AND TOWN. 13

northern drifts a very ancient though not the last upraised
sea-beach. In the south-western area rests the tower of
refuge*^ an extremely picturesque object^ and in case of
shipwreck on the dangerous reef (the Conaster rock^ or St.
Mary^s Isle) on which it stands^ a precious point of safety
for the mariner. The headland at the northern extremity
of the bay is Banks^s Howe, a favourite resort of the Dou-
glas people when an autumnal sun has mellowed the heather
on the mountain sides. The distance between the extreme
horns of the bay will be about two miles.

A continuation of the bold coast two miles north-east of
Banks^s Howe (interrupted only by the sweet little haven
of Growdale, where a streamlet comes tumbling down from
the White Bridge near Onchan) terminates the scene with
Clay Head.

. In the foreground we have the town of Douglas stretch-
ing along the south-western edge of the bay. The old
town, in the form of a triangle, occupies the low ground at
the mouth of the river on the level of the last raised sea-
beach, the piert (with its light-house) and St. Barnabas
church being the most stidking objects. The more elevated
localities have in later years been seized upon by the better
classes for their habitations and for the lodging-houses of
strangers, and a new town has thus rapidly grown up of a
more respectable character, and this from its position being
more conspicuous than the more ancient one, happily im-
presses the visitor on his approach with a very favourable
opinion of the spot. The Odd Fellows' Hall, St. George's J

* Erected in 1832, mainly through the exertions of Sir William
Hillary.

t The first stone of the pier was hiid on July 24, 1793, by John
Duke of Athol. Its length is 520 feet, and breadth 40 feet. The
cost of erection was Jt22fl00,

t Built in 1780.

14 THE ISLE OF MAN.

Churchy and the House of Industry*^ stand out as the more
prominent objects in the upper town. Along the shore to
the north we have the new church of St. Thomas f, the
only modem building on the island which can pretend to
an ecclesiastical character.

Above this a fine terrace of the northern drift is being
rapidly occupied by a superior class of residences, com-
manding a magnificent view of the bay and the environs
of Douglas. Bather more to the north we have Villa Ma-
rina, and then as the most conspicuous object almost in
the centre of the crescent of the bay, in a Une direct from
the light-house through the tower of refuge, stands out
Castle Mona, formerly the residence of John Duke of
Athol, whither he removed from Port-e-Chee, but now con-
verted into a first-rate hotel. A little further northwards
the continental traveller is reminded strongly of the Rhine
castles, by the castellated and highly picturesque pile on
the Falcon Cliff.

Perhaps a well-practised eye may perceive a few yards
to the northward of the Falcon Cliff that the claret-colour-
ed schist, on which the castle stands, dips at a high angle
nearly south by east, and has but a very thin capping of
the drift gravel. The series is well-developed in a quarry
hard by, where the road turns up the hill to Kirk Onchan,
and shows, as contrasted with the dip of these schists on
Douglas Head, that the town lies in a synclinal depression.
Strathallan Crescent forms an interesting feature in this
portion of the bay, where the shore begins to curve to the
north-eastward ; and in the same division of the panorama
we can include Derby Castle, though standing a little apart
within its own grounds to the eastward.

The upper portion of the same field of view will take in

* Built in 1837. • t Commenced in 1846.

KIRKONCHAN. 15

a pretty fragment of the village of Onchan* perched on
the rise of the hill, with its heavenward pointing church
spire relieved against a richly-wooded background, — a com-
bination not too frequently falling under the eye of the
painter in the Isle of Man, where trees are few and far be-
tween.

Such is the foreground in the panorama of Douglas Bay,
owing much perhaps of its present attraction as a watering
place to the hand of manf^ but still most truly enchanting
in its own undecked naturalness. In fact, the mind of
him who is a true admirer of the beauties of Creation re-
verts at once to the time, scarcely more than a century and
a half ago, when Douglas, a fishing-hamlet in the parish
of Kirk Braddan, sent up on a still summer Sabbath-eve
its ciurling wreaths of turf-smoke from the Uttle group of
fishers^ cots which nestled in the western angle of the bay,
whilst fathom upon fathom of herring nets lay drying
around upon the sand-hills, since occupied by a ducal palace
and aristocratic mansions, and he will ever love mentally to
Unger on such a scene.

Well ! let him then even now lift up his eyes to the
further off landscape in the distant mountain chain. Let
us suppose the station a mile or two out at sea, so as to
permit the line of view clear over Douglas Head and the
nearer eminences. Tis evening; stretching away to the
right and left, from seven to eight miles inland, as far as
the eye can reach in a Une almost parallel to the south-
eastern coast, the glorious panorama of mountain peaks
stands forth in clear relief against the western sky. We
have said peaks, but their outline generally speaking is too
soft and rounded fairly to claim that termf. A mellowed

* Dedicated in honour of St. Concha, the mother of St. Patrick,
t See Note C, Appendix.

X A good idea of their form may be gained from the " Distant
sea-view of the Isle of Man as approached from the south-east."

16 THE ISLE OF MAN.

light streams through the gorges and deeper central valley
which cleaves the island in twain from Douglas to Peel.
The dark heather on South Barrule and Bein-y-Phot^ the
longer we gaze looks darker and darker still. The loftier
mountain-range, though continued onwards with a gradual
depression towards Brada Head^ the Mull Hills, and the
Calf of Man, seems to terminate in the south-west with
Gronck-na-Irey-Lhaa (the hill of the rising day), reaching
1400 feet above the sea-level, its eastern face smoothed
down and every cavity apparently filled up. A glance at
the geological map* wiU show that the tertiary deposits,
here consisting of boulders, sand and clay of the pleisto-
cene age, stretch far up the mountain side. They might
perhaps under the term diluvium be continued to the very
summit, for even to that height we find boulders of granite
evidently detached from the boss on the eastern side of
South Barrule, and rolled forward in a south-westerly direc-
tion. The western face of Irey-na-Lhaa descends almost
perpendicularly into the Western Sea. It is the leeward
side, so to speak, of the mountain barrier opposed to the
drifting current from the north-east.

Carrying the eye onward towards the north, the next
summit is South Barrule (the top of the Apple), a noble
mountain as seen from any side, the King of the South,
rising 1545 feet above the sea-level. The intervention of
Mount Murray takes off somewhat from its grandeur as
seen on entering Douglas Bay. The same may be said
perhaps of Slieuwhallin (the Hill of the Whelp), the next
mountain to the right descending (at its northern extre-
mity) with extreme abruptness into the vale of St. John.
The northern slope of that valley ascends far more gently
to the summit of Greebah, which presents to the southern
view the appearance of a truncated pyramid.

The ridge continues now with a slight depression towards
* Plates I. and III.

INJEBRECK. 17

the north-east^ affording a pass across the chain from
Baldwin to the Bennass Valley. And now further to the
north, having passed another prominent pointy we can just
scan the head of the Baldwin valley in the deep recess of
Injebreck, a lovely wooded retreat on a hot summer's day,
where the clear dew-drops come trickling down in a silver
thread from the grassy slope betwixt Garraghan and Snae-
fell to form the Glas (the grey water), which rolling on-
wards through the Baldwin valley and joining the Dhoo
(the black water)* near Port-e-Chee (the Harbour of
Peace), forms with it the Douglas river from which the
town takes its name.

Standing forward from the more regular chain of moun-
tains, we have next Gurraghan and Bein-y-Phot, whose
elevation above the sea is respectively 1520 and 1750 feet.
Then falling back upon the line to the north is the monarch
of Mona, Sneafell, 2004 feet in height ; and the ridge is
further extended north-eastward, terminating in the conical
point of North Barrule, which frowns down upon Ramsey,
the metropolis of the north, and sends forth at its base
a series of lesser ridges on every side, like the gnarled
and twisted roots of some gigantic old oak. In the ravines
thus formed are the sylvan retreats of Ballure and Glen-
aldyn. Maughold Head, rough and precipitous, forms the
extreme north-eastern termination of the great mountain
chain, as seen from the entrance to Douglas Bay, and shuts
up the further view of the island in that direction. It
should however be rather considered physically as a more
salient point of a secondary chain to the south-eastward of
the former principal one.

It is a hard and ungracious task to advise people in
general of a line of tour in such a country as Monads fair
isle. There are so many various points to be considered
* It nses in the turf bogs of the central insular valley.

18 THE ISLE OF MAN.

in the matter; the time at the disposal of the visitor is a
prime consideration ; regard must be had to the different
energies of the invalid travelling in his easy carriage in
search of health amidst the valleys^ and the able-bodied
pedestrian who is prepared to scale precipices and inhale
the keen air which plays around the mountain-top. Regard
must be had to the antiquarian intent on Runic monu-
ments, Kist-vaens and Cromlechs, ruined churches, cathe-
drals, monasteries and castles ; whilst the naturalist will
feel anxious to have his attention directed to those lo-
calities which present the best specimens of the objects
on which his mind happens to be just now particularly
engaged.

But in writing for the geological tourist, we need not
hesitate in advising the course he ought to take, whether
it be by days or weeks that he is to reckon his stay. He
must go almost at once to the south of the island, where
he will find the whole physical history of the country de-
veloped in the geological study of the Sheading of Rushen.
Yet, if he can spare a day, he may devote it first to the
neighbourhood of Douglas, in an examination of the valleys I

in which flow the streams originating the Douglas river.
He will there (especially in Spring valley) fix his attention
on the terraces of drift-gravel, the indication of successive |

elevation of the area of the ancient sea-bottom of this
neighbourhood. He will perceive that in former times an
estuary ran up into the country to Port-e-Chee (the Haven
of Peace), and that it has been drained at a period, geolo- i

gically recent, by an elevation which is probably the last /

affecting materially the physical condition of the island ;
and he may find some reason perhaps for the supposition,
that a movement, then commenced, has been quietly pro-
ceeding even down to the present time. He may even
extend his day^s excursion beyond Port-e-Chee, a few miles

RUNIC MONUMENTS. 19

into the Baldwin valley^ and perhaps reach Injebreck^;
and all the way he will be struck with the masses of gravel,
sand and clay through which the streamlets from the
mountain's dashing and foaming have cut their way, and
formed many a romantic glen which he will refer in great
part to the period of the boulder-clay deposit. And the
general tourist, who cares nothing for the geological ques-
tions involved, may well accompany him in this day's
ramble, for he will pass through scenery which for quiet
and secluded loveliness is hardly to be equaUed anywhere
in Mona. And why should he not include in it the Kirk
yard of Braddan t ? sweet shaded holy spot ! How do pensive
solemn thoughts steal over us there ; and scenes of bygone
times flit rapidly before our imagination as we sit upon the
western stile, itself an ancient, misplaced and perverted
Runic monument! Would that it were the only misplaced
holy stone in this churchyard, but, proh pudor ! in the
midst of it, under the open sky, is the good old square
font, plain and simple, 't is true, but yet of honest stone,
and hallowed to many a generation, now crumbling to dust
in the yard around. It was turned out of the church J to
make room for a pew not many years ago. A small basin

* The general tourist should be advised to visit this spot, and he
may {rem Injebreck easily ascend Bein-y-Phot and Sneafell.

t St. Brandon (in honour of whom the church was dedicated) is
said to have been an Abbot and Confessor, who died a recluse in the
Isle of Arran towards the close of the eleventh century. In the year
A.D. 1292, Mark, Bishop of Sodor, held here a synod, in which were
enacted thirty-six canons for the government of the church. The
present church of Braddan was built in 1773.

X There is scarcely a church on the island which retains its an-
cient font within the church. The fonts have been ejected for the
most part within the last twenty years, and appropriated to various
nameless uses. Mostly they are cut out of insular granite blocks
without any attempt at ornament, and probably they are very old.

20 THE ISLE OF MAN.

upon a wooden pillar within the altar rails is intended to
do duty in its stead.

Above this old square font is one of the finest Runic
monuments of the island^ its length 5 feet 4 inches^ the
shaft adorned with figures of dragons or monstrous animals
intertwined together. Along its edge is an inscription*
in Runes^ the interpretation of which has greatly puzzled
antiquarians. If we look about we shall find two other
Runic monuments^ one leaning against the church tower
on the southern side^ the other built in as a lintel to one
of the windows of the tower. But we must away.

Let us take the road which leads through the richly-
wooded grounds of Kirby and Ballaughton^ and coming
out upon Spring Valley, we may saunter leisurely down
the streamlet which falls into the Douglas river below the
Nunnery. Let us look upwards now to those embattled
walls which perch on the summit of the rock, or peep forth
from the denser foliage which mantles round its base.
These are not the very identical walls in which the vene-
' rable Prioress of Douglas used in the olden tune to hold
her baronial courts, exercising a te9iporal as well as a
spiritual discipline over her own vassals. They, for the most

* It was copied for Gibson's Camden upwards of a hundred years
ago. The best figure of this cross is given in the Archaeological
Journal of the Archieological Institute of Great Britain and Ireland,
vol. ii. p. 75. The two readings which have met with the greatest
favour seem to be those of Mr. Beauford and Mr. Just ; the former
reads it thus : — " Durlifr nsaci nsti krus dono aftfiac sunfin frudur
sun safrsag ;" and translates it — " For Admiral DurUf this cross is
erected, by the son of his brother (the son of) Safrsag."

The latter reads it-—" Thurlior : Niaki : Rasti : Krus : Thono :
Aft : Fiak : Sini : Aruth : Ur : Sun : Taors :" and translates it —

" Thurlior Niaki raised this cross for his Aruth ur, son of Jaor."

We have given a view of the Runic cross and the ancient square font
as they stand together in the Auld Kirk Yard.

4>i^-:i^^^*ar:

:iH4

..JSr^'-*'

THE XUNNERY. 21

part^ have long since passed away; and it would be difficult
to trace a vestige of monumental stone (even in the eastern
wing^ which has a pretension to greater antiquity) which
we might venture to pronounce as fashioned and wrought
to take its place as part of that ancient house which St.
Bridget is said to have founded here in the sixth century*.
But still there is an impressiveness about the buildings and
we can hardly help feehng a desire to know more of its
earher history^ and to trace its influence^ if possible^ upon
a rude people in a troublous age^ and observe how it stood
forth as a home of civilization and of true religion^ a real
Port-e-Chee^ a refuge to the weak and peaceful in times
when every man^s hand was against his fellow.

* St. Bridget was bom in the year 453, and at the age of fourteen
yean received the veil at the hands of St. Patrick. In 484 she
founded the nunnery of Kildare ; about the same time a monastery
was founded under the same roof; and this illustrious and imma-
culate lady presided both over the nuns and the monks till the time
of her death in the year 523. — Wood^a History of the hie of Man,
p. 113.

22 THE ISLE OF MAN.

CHAPTER III.

Road from Douglas to Castletown. — Port Soderic. — Beautiful
scenery.— Natural caves. — Intrusive greenstone. — Axis of ele-
vation. — ^Transport of boulders. — Barrows and Cromlechs. —
Action of drift-ice and icebergs. — The ancient condition of the
Isle of Man as a chain of smaller islands. — Santon-bum, Balla-
lona. Fairies. \

In proceeding from Douglas to Castletown, we have the
choice of two routes, one lying along the eastern coast by
Oakhill, Ballashamrock, and through the parish of Santon,
which was the old road, another running over the higher
ground more inland by Mount Murray, which is that now
generally traversed. The former seems to have been aban-
doned in consequence of the deep gulleys which were
crossed by it, over which it was deemed too expensive (in a
country where no tolls are taken) to throw viaducts ; but it
was a great mistake to carry the new one in its present
direction over two very steep and long hills (Middle Hill
and Richmond Hill), through a country in great part wild
and dreary in the extreme, and where good road materials
are scarce ; a middle line might have been adopted nearer
and easier than either of the others, taking^ the old road as
far as Ballashamrock, thence through Oatlands into the
new road, near the half-way-house; and then from the foot
of the hiU, where the old and new road join about three
and a half miles from Castletown, the road might have
been continued by Ballahick and the Creggins, nearly in a
straight line, and avoiding a very wearisome hill. It is not
too late yet to adopt this route, and public rather than

SOUTH BARRULE. 28

private interests will be consulted thereby. In this case
it would be desirable to bring into use the masses of tough
greenstone which lie scattered along the surface almost
the whole way, than which there can hardly be a better
road material.

For the sake of the scenery, the pedestrian or horseman
may well be advised, even now, to take the old road en-
tirely, and carriages may adopt it in part by turning off
from it by the by-road which runs through Oatlands and
connects the old with the new Castletown road, about half
a mile south of Mount Murray. At this point, where the
by-road meets the new main-road, it will be well to pause
and take a view of the south of the Island. The imme-
diate neighbourhood, as has just been mentioned, is re-
markably bleak and barren, consisting of cold clay lands,
formed by the degradation of the subjacent schists.
Scarcely a tree can be seen, and such as are seen convey
the idea of nature holding out wretched signals of distress.
Immediately to the westward, at the distance of four miles,
rises South Barrule, looking black and frowning towards
the south-west, seemingly supported to the right and left
by its twin body-guards Slieuwhallin and Irey-na-Lhaa ;
whilst directly in front, above St. Mark's and the mining
ground of Foxdale, rises a fine granitic dome, studded
with disintegrating blocks of that rock, and spangled near
the summit with masses of white quartz. South Barrule
thus reminds us of an overgrown school-boy with a frosted
plum-cake in his lap. We catch from this point also a
glimpse of the Calf of Man and Spanish Head, with other
of the more remarkable promontories; and turning more to
the south, we observe the tower of King WilUam's College
standing out as a striking object at the head of Castletown
Bay.

But the traveller on foot or on horseback, as has just

24 THE ISLE OF MAN.

been mentioned^ may well keep on the old Castletown road^
and examine the different glens which run down to the sea.
They are full of interest, and will well repay a visit in detail.
Descending to the sea-shore below Ballashamrock^ we
come upon Port Soderic, a secluded and exquisitely lovely
inlet, into which, at its south-western recess, the streamlet
from Mount Murray makes its way, cutting through the
beds of the boulder-clay formation, which we may com-
mence studying here, where they have been sheltered from
denudation in the interior of the little bay. The schists
which form the horns of the bay rise at a high angle* in-
land, and there become contorted; and this is apparently due
to the intrusion of masses of greenstonef, which run hence
in a direction nearly west magnetic, and throw the beds
into an anticlinal along an axis in that direction, the traces
of which are discernible in various creeks X along the shore
for several miles towards the south of the island, and more
especially at the mouth of the Santon river, near Coshna-
hawin Head. The action of the sea at different levels
upon the schists which have thus been disturbed, and the
formation of a series of water-worn caves penetrating the
lines of fracture, are highly deserving of study by the geo-
logist ; and the artist will find here many a pretty gem for
his sketch-book, and the lover of nature many of her
wildest features for his contemplation. Here are the
favourite haunts of the sea-fowl ; and when a storm has
been spending its fury on these rugged cliffs with a heavy

* At the caves they dip S. 10° E. magnetic at an angle of 35°.

t I have not as yet been able to discover the outburst of the
greenstone at Port Soderic, though I have little doubt of its exist-
ence in this neighbourhood, from the numerous blocks on the surface
to the south-west of the bay.

X In Sea-field harbour the strike of the disturbance is N. 82° W.
magnetic, or nearly magnetic east and west.

PORT SODEKIC. 25

swell rolling in from the jiorth-east^ their wild screaming^
mixed up with the roaring of the billows in the rocky
caves and deep gullies^ and the dash of the foaming surge
upon the pinnacles of schist which stand out here and
there into the sea, forms a concert of discords wonderfully
impressive and heart-stirring. And so again are we soothed
into a kind of romantic melancholy when not a breath stirs
the waters, and the only sound is that of the lap Japping
of the wave, and its faint echo against the sides of the
picturesque cavern on the quiet influx of the tide, mixed
with trickling of water from the roof and the splash of the
little neighbouring cascade which comes tumbling down
fifty or sixty feet and mirrors a rainbow from the morn-
ing sun ; and there is the gentle bleating of the sheep on
the crag above, and the plaintive cry of the curlew, which
has made its nest in some rocky cranny along the shore :
and then to look down into the clear deep azure pools and
watch the finny tribe there disporting themselves, and
tempting lobsters and crabs peeping forth from their holes,
and all the beautifrd variety of algae waving to and fro in
the briny swell ; where can we see these things in greater
perfection than in Mona ? Who that loves such scenes
will not hasten to enjoy them here ?

The next principal inlet to the south of Port Soderic is
Seafield. It is a fine open bay with rocky caves oh the
north side; and from the south side we have a good view
of a wooded valley running up tor some distance inland,
and we have a continuation of the same geological phseno-
mena, and consequently the same scenery as at Port
Soderic.

On the way we must have observed here and there con-
stant accumulation of greenstone blocks on both sides of
the road, but specially to the westward, and we shall have
little doubt as to the direction in which many of these have

26 THE ISLE OF MAN.

come. We shall find them in considerable numbers as
we ascend from Seafield towards the church of Kirk Santon,
and especially to the south-west on the summit of the hill.
We cannot help noticing the circumstance that a very large
use has been made of these boulders in the formation of
the so-called druidical circles, which are, or rather were,
so abundant on the island.

The antiquary, when treating of the mechanical powers
employed in bringing to their present position on the tops
of hUls these magnificent masses of stone, in an age when
machinery must have been of a very simple character,
seems sadly to have overlooked the fact of their having
been in many instances a geological deposit left ready to
hand frequently on those very spots where we now see
them, brought thither (shall we say it ?) by the carrying
power of ice which grounded and melted on those summits
when the glacial sea was at a higher level relatively to the
land than it now is. It is not necessary in each case to
presume that the masses of ice thus transporting rocks
were of such a size as to be strictly speaking icebergs; the
position of the blocks may very frequently be accounted
for by the simple supposition of their having been frozen
in amidst packed ice or mixed ice and snow*, which was
afterwards broken up, forced along shore by the action of
powerful currents, grinding down and smoothing in many
instances the subjacent rocks which lay in the main pas-
sages or tide-ways (and may we not in this way account for
the vast accumulation of gravel, sand and clays in the lower
portion of the boulder formation?), and again often stranded
and forced inland in the form of packed ice by the action
of stormy waves, and upon the deliquescence of the ice
forming vast piles of detrital matter with mixed angular

* Mr. Darwin has cited some admirable instances of such phseno-
mena in his recent travels in the Southern Hemisphere.

ICEBERGS. 27

and rounded blocks^ according to the condition in which
those blocks were when frozen into the ice. And both
angalar and rounded blocks may have become scratched
and marked with furrows in their passage from one locality
to another whilst held tight in their icy matrix ; and this
is the condition in fact in which we mostly meet with
masses of rock in this formation.

Perhaps in considering the boulder series on the Isle of
Man^ we may hold as a general rule that those accumula-
tions which consist entirely or in most part of insular
rocks, have been so deposited by shore-ice, and on the other
hand we may attribute to the carrying power of icebergs
those small boulders, and even large accumulations of
boulders and gravel, which have a foreign aspect, and are
plainly travellers from a more distant region.

In discussing too the question of the action of shore-ice,
packed-ice, icefloes, and icebergs in the formation of the
boulder deposit in this neighbourhood, the true physical
condition of the country relatively to the sea-level at that
time ought to be taken into consideration. We must re-
member that when the land was depressed and the sea
reached higher up the mountains, we should have presented
to us a chain of islands separated by. very narrow channels*.
The fearful rapidity with which the current at certain

* In a French work published in Paris last year, entitled * Re-
cherches sur les Glaciers, les Glaces Flotantes, les Ddp6ts Erratiques,
&c.,' the author (Mons. Jules Granges) brings forward evidence to
show that the inferior limit of perpetual snow descends lower in
islands than peninsulas^ and in peninsulas lower than on continents ;
and he comes also to the conclusion, " que dans les climats insulaires,
oil les temperatures moyennes sont assez levees et otlcependant les
temperatures estivales sont tr^s douces, les glaciers pr^senteront le
plus grand d^veloppement possible ; ce sera precis^ment le contraire
pour les climats continentaux." The bearing of these statements
on the origin of the boulder formation is very interesting.

28 THE ISLE OF MAN.

points in the ebb and flow of the tide (aided also by parti-
cular winds) rashes through the Sound of the Calf or Kit-
terland Strait at the present period^ is a matter of noto-
riety, and has not unfrequently been a cause of the loss of
small vessels which have ventured through, and of human
life. When in addition to this channel there was one from
Port St. Mary to Port Erin, from Poolvash Bay to Feswick
Bay, from Douglas to Peel, and perhaps from Peel by Kirk
Patrick to Glenmoy, and from Port Lewaigue to Port Moor,
thus forming, as it would appear, most probably seven islands
and islets, the destructive power of conflicting currents
charged with icebergs, icefloes, and drift-ice, bearing in
their under surface, or mixed with them, fragments of por-
phyry and other hard rocks, will readily be granted, and
we shall be prepared to allow an extensive degradation of
the shores, and a continual ploughing up of the sea-bottom
in these channels.

Let us now travel onwards, descending from Kirk Santon
Hill to the Santon-bum, which taking its rise a little south
of the Foxdale mines at the foot of the granitic boss on
South Barrule, flows down a wild and picturesque valley
hardly ever visited, but certainly claiming and well reward-
ing the detour of a few miles which the pedestrian may
make up it. At various points up this valley, as in the
Baldwin before-noticed, we shall find the streamlet cutting
its way through masses of the boulder clay, which may be
very finely studied here in the terraces which impend the
stream on either side. Here and there the valley opens out
and forms rich alluvial meadows, which a proper system of
drainage would convert into most valuable land, but which
is too often permitted to be so constantly under water as
to produce little else than luxuriant crops of rushes. The
geologist cannot fail of being struck with the singular
grouping of blocks in this stream, the mixture of insular

BALLALONA. 29

granite boulders from the north-westward with the boul-
ders of greenstone from the north-eastward^ as well as with
foreign rocks. The former have been brought down from
Barrule by the stream swollen with rain or melting snow^
or (it may be) in ancient times by a glacier^ the latter have
tumbled out of the boulder formation wherever the stream
has undermined a bank and claimed its contents for a
prey.

The road from Douglas to Castletown crosses the San-
ton-bum at a very pretty point. There is a charm in the
very name of the spot, BaUaUma or Fairy-bridge. It is
not often now-a-days that we can meet with persons not
ashamed to own their belief in the existence of the good
people, and still more seldom is it that we can extract affirm-
ative testimony of eye-witnesses to their tiny pranks upon
the green sward. It would be a mistake however to sup-
pose that the minds of the Manx peasantry are uninfluenced
by a superstitious feeling of reverence for the fairy elves,
and for places which tradition has rendered sacred to their
revels. The superstition has with them its use, it causes
them to keep good hours ; and in some parts of the island
it would be difficult to prevail on a native to stir out after
dark alone. Yea, it is said, that on dark, dismal and stormy
nights, up in the mountain parts of parishes, the tender-
hearted peasants retire earlier to rest, in order to allow to
the weather-beaten fairies the unmolested and unwatched
enjoyment of the smouldering embers of their turf fire.
In the olden time the stories of their appearance to differ-
ent parties were very rife. Waldron has preserved a
goodly number, which no doubt he has largely garnished
out of his own fertile and marvellous brain. Here is one.
''A farmer belonging to the parish of Malew was journey-
ing across the mountains from Peel homewards and missed
his road. Presently the sound of soft and flowing music

30 THE ISLE OF MAN.

reached his ears^ on foUowing which he was led into a mag-
nificent hall, where he observed seated round a well-gar-
nished table a goodly number of the Uttle people, who were
making themselves merry with the comforts of this life.
Amongst those at table were faces which he fancied he had
certainly seen in times past, but took no notice of them,
nor they of him, tiU the little people offering him drink,
one of them who^e features seemed well-known to him
plucked him by the coat tails, and forbade his tasting
aught before him on pain of becoming one of them and
never returning to his home. A cup filled with some
liquor being put into his hand, he found opportunity to
dash its contents upon the ground. Whereupon the music
ceased, the lights disappeared, and the company at once
vanished, leaving the cup in his hand. By the advice of
his parish priest he devoted this cup to the service of the
church, and I am told (says Waldron) that this very cup
is now used for the consecrated wine in Kirk Malew."

Lord Teignmoutb, in his sketches of the coasts of Scot-
land and the Isle of Man, makes the observation that the
Manx retain many superstitious notions common to the
other branches of the Celtic family, and in proof of it men-
tions a conversation which he had with his guide on the
occasion of his visit to the island. The guide stated that
about six years before that time a troop of fairies had ap-
peared to a man of Laxey, who being intoxicated began to
abuse them, but they wreaked their vengeance on him by
piercing his skin with a shower of gravel. The catastrophe
did not terminate here ; for lo ! next morning his horse
died, his cow died also, and in six weeks he himself was a
corpse. The brief hint of intoxication in the above case
leads us to suspect that there was somewhat of truth as
well as shrewdness in the suggestion of a certain local
Wesleyan preacher, that the fairies had been seen taking

THE PHTNNODEBEE. 31

their departure from the island in empty rum puncheons^
and scudding out of Douglas Bay with a fair breeze for
Jamaica.

Whilst on the subject of fairies, which our passage of Bal-
lalona has evoked, it may be well to notice here that the
Manx, as well as their Scottish and Irish congeners, have,
in reference to the distribution of erratic blocks, by the
help of the invisible race cut the Gordian knot which has
long tortured the patience and tried the ingenuity of geo-
logists. Many of these piles of stones, as well as the single
blocks of stone which are perched upon eminences, are
attributed to the labours of a certain evil genius, termed
by them " phynnoderee,'^ a kind of reprobate or outcast
fairy, who for his sins was transformed into a shaggy Satyr,
with long flowing goat^s hair and cloven feet. An in-
stance is related of a certain farmer in the neighbourhood
of Sneafell, who, being about to build a house, collected on
the seashore a goodly pile of boulders. There was how-
ever one enormous quartz boulder on which his heart was
specially fixed, but which no human art could remove from
the spot. In one single night the phynnoderee is stated
to have transferred, not only this stone, but many hundred
loads of the collected boulders to a distance of many miles
inland, in proof whereof the erratic quartz rock is to this
day pointed out, where it Ues on an elevated spot on the
mountain side.

32 THE ISLE OF HAN*

CHAPTER IV.

The Sheading of Rushen. — General view of the southern area of the
island.— The Eye of the Calf.— Spanish Head.— Port Erin.— Port
St. Mary. — BallasaDa. — Rushen Ahbey. — Castle Rushen. — King
William's College. — Langness. — The great natural features of this
sheading. — ^Ellipsoidal hills of the boulder formation. — Great drift-
gravel platform. — ^Valleys of denudation. — Estuary deposits. —
Notice of the agriculture of the island. — Hints on drainage.

A HUNDRED yards south of the junction of the old and new
road to Castletown and the road leading up to Harris-
dale Farm, we reach the top of the last hill on the road
from Douglas to the metropolis of the Isle of Man. Six
hundred yards further brings us to a cottage on the right-
hand side of the road, a most desirable spot for taking a
bird^s-eye view of the structure of this southern area, and
we may very well at this point enter upon the geology of
the Sheading of Rushen. The stream we have just crossed
(the Santon-bum) forms its north-eastern boundary from
the sea inland to the very source of the stream at the Fox-
dale Mines; thence to the north and north-west it is
boimded by a curved line running over South Barrule (a
little to the westward of its summit), and thence over Irey-
na-Lhaa into the sea. It thus takes in the loftiest moim-
tains of the southern division of the island, the great masses
of schist in all the varieties here existing, the remarkable
granitic boss near Foxdale, the old red sandstone frin-
ging and underlying the basin of the carboniferous deposits,
the limestone itself (the older beds of Ronaldsway and
Port-St.-Mary, and the newer series of Poolvash), the trap-
tuflf of Scarlet Head, and the trap dykes and greenstone

THE SHEADING OP BTTSHEN. 83

dykes which in difi!erent directions cut up the area; it
includes the rounded hills of the boulder formation, the
terraces of drift-gravel, and the still newer and most in-
teresting series of marine and freshwater alluyia which
occupy the southern valleys. In fact we have the entire
geology of the Isle of Man itself brought within a reason-
able compass in this single sheading. And here let us see
what it is made of.

We are looking down upon an elliptical area of some-
what irregular outline, the extremities of whose major axis
we may consider to be Coshnahawin Head in the north-
east, and Port St. Mary in the south-west. The outline
of the area to the north-westward of this axis is formed by
the mountain chain, which from its general direction from
N.E. by N.to S.W. by S. curves round towards the south as
it approaches the Calf of Man. We cannot see the Calf of
Man from this point, but we catch a glimpse of the Eye of
the Calf, which appears as if united to the main island.
Spanish Head presents a bold front to the sea, and was
till within the present year an overhanging precipice of
more than 300 feet ; it is surmounted by the Mull Hills. A
gap (in which lies Port Erin) intervenes between these
hills and Brada Head, which has a front to the west not less
imposing than Spanish Head. Port Erin itself is hidden
by one of the nearer eminences, over which peeps Brada
Head to the south-westward. A second gap to the north-
ward (in which hes Fleshwick Bay) separates Brada Head
from the great mountain chain which terminates in Irey-
na-Lhaa. Port St. Mary is conspicuous with its white-
washed houses and the smoke of its limekilns to the north-
westward of Spanish Head in a snug comer of Poolvash
Bay. It is the most southern hamlet on the island, situated
in the parish of Kirk Christ^s Bushen, whose village church,
if it had a very tall spire, we might perhaps distinguish

c 5

31 THE ISLE OF MAN.

over the hill in a line between us and Port Erin; and the
same line would pass nearly over Arbory Churchy and rest
upon the venerable abbey of Kushen, the ruins of which
lie down in the valley here about half a mile from us
amidst that mass of foliage ; we can just see two of its gray
and ivied towers peeping out from amongst the elms which
surround it. It is a spot full of solemn associations^ the
resting-place of kings^ bishops, abbots and holy men.

O ! quia verendoram admonitus sacros
Temnit locorum?

This at our feet is the village of Ballasalla, the largest in
the island, and even within the last fifty years of sufficient
importan<;e to have a Deemster^s Court held in it. And
there two miles beyond on the western edge of its bay is
Castletown itself, clustering round the ancient pile of Castle
Rushen, which the Danish Guttred* erected nearly nine
hundred years ago, — a noble specimen of fortification,
scarcely inferior to that of Elsinore, which it greatly resem-
bles. Wisely did that Scandinavian hero choose the mate-
rial of his castle from the crystalline limestone of this imme-

* In Johnstone's Jurisprudence, page 13, it is stated that Castle
Rushen was built by Guttred in960, but in some repairs of the Castle in
1815 an old oak beam was discovered, bearing the following characters :

The central letter appears to be a combination of the Maeso-Gothic
52 (o) and X (ch-)- The date 947 is supposed to be the sera of the
reign of Guttred, second prince of the line of Gorree, who acquired
the island in the tenth century ; Guttred is said to be buried within
the Castle. Cardinal Wolsey, who was guardian to the young Earl
of Derby, is generally supposed to have planned and caused to be
erected the glacis, of which there ia a portion remaining on the east
and south sides.

CASTLE RUSHEN. 35

diate locality. After more than eight centuries and a half
of war with the elements^ after the sieges* with which by
man at various times it has been beleaguered^ it looks as
fresh and entire as its neighbour. King William^s College,
raised from the same quarry not the seventh of a century
ago. To be sure the latter has undergone the ordeal of fire,
which has left somewhat of a more sombre and gray tinge
of time upon its tower than would otherwise have been the
case, yet even before that calamity appearances were not
greatly in favour of the junior building. The reason in
fact why both have suffered so little from the severe tests
through which they have gone, is that the stone has been
(so to speak) annealed in the quarry in ages long gone by,
the great mass of molten trap with which the limestone is
in contact at Scarlet-point having in cooling imparted to
the latter rock (of which the College and Castle are built) a
crystalline and enduring nature. It is strange that with
such a specimen as Bushen Castle before them, the archi-
tects of Douglas Pier and Castle Mona should have gone
across the water to England and to Scotland for a much
worse material, a material too which does not harmonize
so well with the character of the scenery with which Dou-
glas is surrounded.

But to return to the landscape now within the field of
view. Malew Church peeps forth in a gap between the
Creggins and Ballahot, and St. Mary's Church in Castle-
town is seen to the south-eastward between the castle and
the bay. To the north of the town on the rising ground
stands Lorn House, the present residence of the Lieut.-
Govemor. The old and new pier, the latter unfinished,
are hid from view by the intervening buildings. Alto-
gether the view of Castletown from this northern point

* ''In the year 1313 King Robert Bruce beseiged this Castle."
Feltham, page 274.

86 THX ISLB OV MAN.

is imposing^ and giyea the idea of greater extent than is
the reality. The foreground too is good and sets it off to
advantage; it appears to stand almost at the opening out
of a finely cultivated valley into a noble bay^ penetrating
three miles inland^ and being two wide at its mouth ; the
northern shore (the head of the bay) is relieved of the
tameness it would otherwise have by the College^ which
forms^ with its central tower rising more than 100 feet
from the ground^ a conspicuous object of a cathedral
character. The basaltic pile of Scarlet Stack at the western
side^ and the peninsula of Langness on the eastern side
of Castletown Bay^ with its round tower near the southern
extremity*, will next catch the eye ; and then to the north
of the narrow neck of land which joins Langness to the
main island, lies the quiet fishing handet of Derbyhaven,
with its retired and lovely bay. Bonaldsway, an ancient
mansion and battle-field, and a favourite resort of the geo-
logist, to the north of Derbyhaven, is hardly hid by the
trees and rising ground of Ballahick, a property which lies
down here to the left-hand on the opposite side of the
valley from Ballasalla.

But the great natural features of this southern area have
as yet been hardly dwelt upon.

The immediate neighbourhood is a low undulating
country, presenting a series of rounded hills f rising from
100 to 200 feet, whose seaward front is a curved line from
Coshnahawin Head towards Kirk Arbory. The most pro-
minent are the Brough and Ballahick HUl on our left,

* The fort and ndned church at the northern extremity of Lang-
ness (or rather in the island of St. Michael, which is connected with
it by a breastwork of stone) are concealed at this point by the hill
above Ballahick.

t See the Map of the Southern area, including the tertiary for-
mations, Plate III. and Plate VII., section 1.

THE CBEGGINS. 87

Ballahot on oar rights westward of Roshen Abbey, and
directly in front and trending westward, the Greggins Hills,
Skybright (near Malew church) and Ballown. If we ex-
amine closely into the general direction of the axes of these
ellipsoidal hills (the osar of Swedish naturalists), and of
the short valleys or depressions between them, we shall see
that it is parallel, or nearly parallel to the direction of the
great mountain chain. It is also coincident, or very nearly
so, with the direction of the scratches and groovings on
the surface of the subjacent rocks whenever they can be
discovered. The composition of these hills is the gravel,
sand, and clay of the boulder or pleistocene formation ;
the points where it is best seen being in the banks of the
Silverbum, below Ballasalia, near the Greggins, and again
to the westward of Skybright. The lower portion will be
found the more loamy, and of the colour of the subjacent
rock, of which also it generally contains not very rounded
but much-scratched fragments. The middle portion is
generally sandy, with small rounded pebbles and boulders
chiefly of foreign rocks ; the upper portion is stiU more
gravelly, but it is on the surface generally, and also on the
higher ground that we fall in with the largest boulders,
whether single or in patches.

Direct attention again to the further-off landscape be-
tween these rounded hills and the sea as far as the eye can
reach. It may be described as one great terrace of gravel
rising gradually inland from twenty-five to sixty feet above
the sea-level, with an indistinct appearance of a series of
lower terraces or raised sea-beaches down to the present
sea-level. But the whole area of these terraces is cut up
by a succession of valleys of denudation, which have evi-
dently been occupied at one time by the sea as estuaries*,

* See the Map of the Southern area of the island, including the
tertiary formations, Plate III. and Plate VII., section 1.

38 THE ISLE OF MAN.

but which are now receiving constantly the alluvial deposits
which the streams from the mountains bring down and
spread forth in them. If we examine the outline of the
coast and the materials of which it is composed^ we shall
discover certain causes which have operated in producing
the present physical appearance of the lowlands. We shall
see that Langness Pointy Scarlet Head and Balladoole HiU^
present to the south masses of tough^ igneous and crystalline
rocks which very powerfully resist denuding action^ and
which have acted as breakwaters against that action coming
up the Irish Channel. We shall see also that the drift-
gravel Ues along and is preserved over the ridges of the
undulations which have been impressed upon the subjacent
limestones. Indeed so much so is this the case^ that we
might easily fall into the error that the limestone has been
thrown into these wavy ridges since the deposition of the
boulder clay series and drift-gravel ; and some of my earlier
sections across this basin favoured that supposition. A
closer examination^ and the finding rolled fragments of the
trap^ whose eruption caused the undulations of this area^
in the boulder formation^ showed such an hypothesis to be
incorrect*.

When the sea flowed over these low barriers of the hard
palseozoic rocks before the land had risen to its present
elevation, it would wash the base of the rounded hills of
the boulder series which have been spoken of as lying on
a curved line from Coshnahawin to Arbory, beating up
into the valleys between them, and doubtless causing the
removal of large portions of the looser materials of which
they are composed, transporting them to a greater or less

* This remark must not be taken so as to exclude the probability
of any disturbance having affected this area since the boulder clay
deposit^ as there is very good evidence of some disturbance^ but in a
different direction.

BOUNBEP HILLS. 39

distance according to their different specific gravities and
the strength of the currents. The great terrace of drift-
gravel was evidently the sea-bottom of that period, and its
contents have in great part been derived from the boulder
formation. The great features of these lowlands are there-
fore plainly attributable to the denuding action of the sea-
waves during the elevation of the island, and the resistance
presented at various points by the superior hardness of the
rocks subjacent to the tertiary formations ; and the round-
ing also of the lower hills of the boulder formation may in
part, perhaps, be attributed to a similar action. Yet it
seems not improbable that their contour had been im-
pressed upon them previous to the elevation, when they
lay as banks at some depth beneath the surface of the
glacial sea, which we have evidence on the Isle of Man was
relatively with the land 400 feet at least higher than it
now is*.

Presuming that the action of the currents would then
be influenced as now by the coast-line, and that they would
have the greatest force in directions parallel to it, tide-
ways, t. e. submarine valleys, would be originated and
maintained in those directions, and thus the apparent con-
nection between them and the great axis of the island (which
gave the form to the coast-line) would be established and
exhibited on the subsequent elevation of the sea-bottom.
It is further to be observed that the scooping out of these
valleys would be aided materially, were the currents pass-
ing through them charged with icebergs, which there is
good reason for believing to have been the condition of the
sea at that period.

Of the agricultural character and capabilities of this

* See my memoir on the " Geology of the Calf of Man," published
in the Quarterly Journal of the Proceedings of the (Geological Society
of London, in May 1847, p. 184.

40 THB ISLB OF MAN.

Bouthem area^ it may be well to say a word or two before
we leave this point ffappuL It is evidently the garden
of the island^ and altogether under the plough^ and the
advantages of soil and position for obtaining cheaply the
most valuable ingredients for its improvement are ex-
tremely great; yet it is only of late years that any
attempts at systematic and scientific farming have been
made. We may attribute much perhaps of this state of
things to the fact of the farms having been broken up into
so many small holdings^ and the great deficiency of capital.
To carry on therefore any general and effectual system of
drainage was next to impossible^ even if individual farmers
had been so disposed. The gravel terraces and the lower
rounded hills of the boulder formation admit of very easy
drainage; but this is not the case with either the cold
clay uplands which rest upon the schist and granite^ or the
alluvial valleys which have been scooped out of the drift-
gravel ; and the consequence is that these are even yet
under very partial and imperfect culture. The uplands are
not very promising 'tis true, yet individual instances of
industry have shown that a profitable return for labour may
be obtained even from them ; and this more especially by
the simple act of draining carried on with judgement
through a series of years, even with very limited means.
In every part of this sheading lime may be had within a
distance of four miles ; the great wonder is that it has not
been more largely used.

But the case is different with respect to the valleys
which open out immediately upon the sea. Their extreme
moisture is owing to several causes, each of which requires
a separate treatment.

The denudation of the drift-gravel has originally taken
place down to, the lowest bed of the tough boulder clay,
in many cases through the clay down to the inferior lime-

HINTS ON BBAINAOE. 41

stone. The dip of the limestone towards the sea is gene-
rally at an extremely low angle^ and in some places again
it is horizontal^ at others raised up into bosses.

The valleys have again been in part filled up with estuary
deposits of marine sand and fine gravely as well as with the
detritus brought down by freshes from the mountains.
These deposits are in most instances only a few feet thick.
Hence the waters from the uplands after excessive rains
accumulate in the valleys, overflow the river courses, satu-
rate these sands and gravels, and are only ultimately carried
ofif to the sea by an extremely sluggish natural drainage.

But there is another additional cause of their moisture.
The rains which fall on the gravel terraces which inclose
the valleys, sink through the gravel and sand till they come
down to the boulder clay. This is almost impenetrable,
and the water prevented from descending further is thrown
out on each side into the valleys, and the consequence is
that just at the foot of the gravel terraces, where they fringe
in a manner the valleys, there is a constant accumulation
of moisture producing peat, moss, and rushes. One deep
drain on each side of the valley would take off the springs
at their head, but I am not aware of any instance in which
this system has been adopted. Should the present hint
be acted upon, it will afford an opportunity of testing the
soundness of my views as to the structure of this area, and
be an instance of the practical application of geology to
the interests of agriculture in this particular locality.

42 THE ISLE OF MAN.

CHAPTER V.

Lucian'f dialogues. — ^The physical constitution of Man. — ^The old
Abbey-bridge. — ^Monks and mills. — The Abbey of Rushen. —
Ancient tripartite division of insular tithes. — Present misapplica-
tion of the Abbey-third. — The Abbot stone of Rushen. — The
Creggins Hill. — Drift-gravel platform. — Skybright. — Malew
Church. — Recent changes in the level of the land.

In one of those admirable dialogues by which the heathen
Lucian so forcibly ridicules the vanity of human wishes^
and exhibits the instability and utter nothingness of those
things which the greater mass of mankind are toiling after
and grasping at^ he introduces the fabled ferryman of
Styx in colloquy with Mercury*. They have piled Ossa
on Olympus, and Pelion on Ossa, and have mounted atop.
The aged Charon however soon discovers that by this ele-
vation he has only gained a loss. He wished to become
acquainted with man, to get a closer insight into his con-
stitution, but he has raised himself so far above him as
utterly to defeat the purpose for which he came from the
depth of Erebus. He proposes therefore to the active con-
ductor of the shades, that they should descend at once and
visit one by one the different localities likely to aflFord him
the choicest information. It is natural enough that we
should express a similar wish with his, though the elevation
from which we have been contemplating the physical con-
stitution of Man has nothing to compare with the triple
mountain height to which Charon toiled.

Geologists are accused of very grovelUng habits; they
are said to be always burrowing \mder the earth ; they pro-
* Lucian's Dialogues, — 01 ijrio-K<movvT€s,

THE OLD ABBEY BBIDOE. 43

fess to pry deeper into millstones than other people. Be
it so j they have a mission to fulfil, and humble though it
may appear to many, they are quite contented with their
vocation, and heartily labour at it. Let us descend. The
geologist has been studying hitherto from his elevation
only the great outline of this portion of Man ; he wishes
now to trace out in detail the individual features, each
limb and member, yea, to mark each vein and artery
through which, flowed that igneous fluid* which once
agitated and fashioned the entire frame. He does not, 't
is true, in this immediate neighbourhood of Ballasalla fall
in with those trap dykes and masses of greenstone which
have disturbed and broken up this part of the island ; for
the whole of the palseozoic series is covered up with the
tertiary formations, except where the action of the moun-
tain streams upon the boulder clay has laid bare the sub-
jacent rocks, or the limestone has been sought after by the
quarriers for economic purposes. There are, however, close
by this ancient village (and in fact running through it)
some traces of a disturbance of the older rocks which
appears to be connected with the great elevation of the
mountain chain.

Just above the Abbey of Rushen is a very old bridge,
how old it would be hard to tell ; it appears in the earhest
maps of the island t> and it is sketched by Camden j: as a
remarkable object in his day. It is impassable by any
vehicle except a wheelbarrow, and indicates a time when
packhorses were alone used for the transport of men and
their chattels. The neighbours know it by the name of

* This lower area, as will be shown, is cut up with dykes of trap
rock, the irruption of which seems to have contributed to the
minor features of the country. See page 39, supra.

t See Map of the Isle of Man in 1595, Plate lY.

t It is also given in Chaloner's History, 1656.

44 THE ISLE OP MAN.

the Crossag. Just above it is a mill-dam^ whose original
fabrication we may well believe to have been by the monks
of this abbey. How frequent a concomitant the mill is to
the reUgious houses of the Cistercian order is well known^
and as they^ in the Isle of Man^ were the special almoners
of the poor, there is surely good reason for persuading
ourselves that it has not been by mere accident that in this
locahty the abbey and the mill are so closely connected.
There is the same evidence of design in the contiguity of
a mill with the Friary Bowmaken in Arbory, an offset from
this abbey of Bushen. We have it again in the mill hard
by the nunnery of St. Bridget, near Douglas.

Now betwirt the mill-dam and the bridge, if we look
down into the river, we shall see that the beds of Umestone
are twisted up and set edgeways along a line of fault
which just in this place crosses the stream in a direction
N. 10° W. magnetic ; but as the stream (the Silverbum)
makes a turn westward a little higher up and coincides
then with the line of fault, we may thus trace it upwards
towards the mountain chain, and observe that in this
direction the disturbance increases in value, and is at right
angles, or nearly so, to the great line of elevation of the
mountain chain. The uplift is on the southern side, and
at Athol Bridge, a mile hence up the Silverbum, is about
100 feet. Here, however, at the Crossag Bridge it is very
small, and probably dies away entirely a little south of
BaUasalla. The cross fracture again which runs at the
back of the abbey garden to the westward, has brought
up to view the old red sandstone from under the carboni-
ferous limestone in a very interesting condition. It does
not present to us its ordinary red colour, but pebbles of
white quartz in a gray matrix of limestone, and includes
the characteristic fossils* of the lowest limestone series as
* Particularly " Orthis SharpeiJ*

THE OLD BED SANDSTONE. 45

seen elsewhere in this basin. Perhaps we may trace the
passage more distinctly from the Devonian into the Carbo-
niferous series a little higher up the hill^ on the road-side
near Ballahot Farm House. If we now folldw the Peel road
from this latter spot^ we shall observe just on the brow of
the hill before descending to Athol Bridge^ the lower beds
of the conglomerate with their ordinary red colour resting
unconformably on the upturned edges of the subjacent
claret-coloured schists, whilst on the other hand, we can
easily trace by the Ballahot quarries hard by, the regular
passage of the gray-coloured conglomerate into the dark
limestone and shales of the lower carboniferous beds.

Whilst sauntering near the venerable ruins of the Abbey
of &ushen, let us muse awhile on its history.

The statement of Sacheverell, that it was founded by
Macmarus* in 1098, appears to rest on uncertain authority.
That period was one of great confusion and desolation in
the Isle of Man.

Goddard Crov&n, or Chroub&n (white-handed), the Ice-
landic Chief, in 1077 had defeated the Manks under Fin-
gall their king at Ramsey and gained possession of the
isle. He reserved the southern portion to himself and
followers, and granted the northern to the inhabitants on
the terms that none of them or their heirs should ever pre-
sume to claim any part of it by way of inheritancef. He

* " Macmaiiis, a person of great prudence, moderation and jus-
tice, in the year 1098 laid the first foundation of the Abhy of Rushen
in the town Ballasalley ; these monks lived by their labour with
great mortification ; wore neither shoes, furs, nor Unnen, eat no
flesh except on journeys. It consisted of twelve monks and an
abbot, of whom the first was called Conanus. I find the Cistercian
order to have its first beginning this very year, though probably they
were not planted here till six-and-thirty years after by Evan, Abbot
of Fumess." — Wm. Sacheverell's Account of the Isle of Man,
published in 1702, page 33.

t Note D, Appendix. The Act of Settlement.

46 THE ISLE OV MAN.

in turn was overtlirown by Magnus^ the piratical king of
Norway, who having overrun the western isles and part of
Scotland, seized upon the Isle of Man in 1098. Magnus
shortly after returned to Norway, and seems to have left
behind him as Jarl* or Viceroy, one Outher or Octtar, a
Norwegian. Becoming obnoxious to the Norwegian inha-
bitants of the southern district he was deposed by them,
and Macmarus or Macmanis elected in his stead. The
Northerns still adhering to Octtar, a civil war was originated.
A battle fought at Stantway in Jurbyt between the con-
tending parties gave the victory to the Northerns after a
severe struggle, in which the leaders on both sides were
slain j:. In this juncture Magnus arrived a second time
from Norway in 1098, found the island almost a desert,
and the few inhabitants who remained hving in caves and
underground huts.

It is not improbable that Macmarus on his election to
be Jarl may have made over some lands at Ballasalla and
Rushen to religious purposes, and that these lands thus
devoted to rehgion were granted afterwards by Magnus to
the Abbot of Bievalle, according to Camden, who further
states that " they did not build there.^' Magnus, who was
slain in an invasion of Ireland in 1103 at Moichaba, left four
sons, the youngest of whom, Harold GylUe, set up a claim
to the throne of Man on the death of his father, which was
rejected by the inhabitants, who gave in their allegiance to
Lagman eldest son of Goddard Crov&n. His tyrannical

* Hence our English title " EarL"

t Or St. Patrick's Isle.

X Sacheverell says, " The women of the south side came with so
much resolution to the assistance of their hushands, that they not
only restored the battle, but as a reward of their virtue and bravery,
to this day they enjoy half their husbands' estates during their
widowhood, whereas the northern women have but a third." — ^Ac-
count, page 34.

OLAVE KLEININ6. 47

acts, and especially his cruel treatment of his brother Ha-
rold, whom he barbarously mutilated, created such disaf-
fection that he was obhged to fly the country, and it is
stated that he went on a pilgrimage to the Holy Land and
never returned. The Manks, finding themselves again
without a leader and threatened with foreign enemies, de-
termined to send for Olave Kleining (or the dwarf), the
youngest son of Groddard Crov&n, who had been brought up
at the court of William Rufiis and his successor Henry I.,
whose granddaughter Affrica he subsequently married.

Olave was quietly established on the throne of this isle,
and appears to have ruled with mildness and equity. It
was he who must be regarded in reality as the founder of
the Abbey of Russin or Rushen. In the year 1134, ac-
cording to the ^ Chronicon Mannise et Insularum*,^ pre-
served in the British Museum, written by the monks of
this abbey, he gave to " Ivo or Evan, Abbot of Fumess, a
portion of his lands in Mann, towards building an abbey
in a place called Russin ; he enriched the estate of the
church with revenues and endowed it with great liberties/^

The revenue he apportioned thus ; one third of all the
tithes to the bishop for his maintenance, the second to the
abbey for education of youth and relief of the poor, and
the third to the parochial priests for their subsistence.
The Abbey of Rushen being a Cistercian cell dependent
on the Abbey of Fumess, received its abbots by appoint-
ment thence. The Abbey of Fumess seems also for some
time to have appointed to the bishopric of Man. Certain

♦ MCXXXIV. "Fimdata est Abbatia Stae. Marise de Caldra.
Eodem anno Olavus Rex dedit Yvoni Abbati de Fumes partem terrae
suee in Mannia ad Abbatiam constituendam in loco qvi vocatur
Russin, deditque Ecclesiis insularum terras et libertates." — ^Antiqui-
tates Celto-NormannicsB, page 13, printed at Copenhagen, 1786, from
the original manuscript in the British Museum.

48 THS ISLE OF MAN.

it is that Wimond, who was Bishop of Man from 1113 to
1151^ was a monk of Fnmess Abbey^ as was also Nicholas
de Meaux^ who was made bishop in 1203. The former
there is reason to believe was of Manks descent.

There is great plainness and simplicity in the few relics
of the architecture of this abbey which now remain to us;
square-headed windows and doors as plain as those of the
plainest cottage on the mountain side^ — clear proof both
of the ancient character of this rehgious house and of the
limited extent of its revenues at any time. There is cer-
tainly no evidence here to bear out the statement which
has been made by some^ that in consequence of an accession
of temporal dignity^ the abbot and monks degenerated
from their primitive simplicity and humble industry into
pride and luxury. The property made over to their hands
was in trust for others^ and they seem to have exer-
cised that tiTLst honestly and rigidly. It was a noble tes-
timony to their pious character and their poverty that the
rapacious eighth Henry laid not his hand upon them till
he had plundered aU their EngUsh brethren. It was the
latest monastery dissolved in these kingdoms; and like
all other property perverted from ancient religious uses, it
seems to have settled uneasily on its owner ever since, and
has perpetually been changing hands. A regret has been
expressed by many that it was not secured as the site for
King William^s College ; it would thus have become again
what Sacheverell states to have been the original intention
in its foundation, ^'a nursery to the church.'^ What has
become of the endoMrments ? '^ When (as the son of Bi-
shop Ward says) * the abbey was destroyed in that devour-
ing reformation, its charitable possessions driven, out into
the world, its lands sold, its church the resting-place of
kings and bishops desecrated, and itself buried in its own
* Isle of Mann and Diocese of Sodor and Mann, p. 328.

IMFKOPBIATE TITHES. 49

ruins^ the Lord of the Isle seized upon that third which had
been held in trust by the monks pro bono publico/' When
Bishop Barrow came to the see in 1663^ he found those
vicars^ the tithes of whose parishes were in the hands of
the lord, in the greatest destitution ; and devoting all his
energies to raise them from this state^ ^' he found means to
purchase a long lease of those Impropriations from the
then Lord Charles Earl of Derby/' An estate of the Earl
in England^ viz. the Manor of Bispham^ together with the
farm or tenement called Methop^ was collaterally bound
for the pajnnent of the clergy. On the alienation of the
island from the Derby family, the Duke of Athol claimed
the impropriations as an inseparable appendage of his
estate and royalty, of which it could not be divested by any
right that had or could be shown*. The clergy were thus
thrown upon the collateral security, viz. the estate of the
Earl of Derby. The deeds for some time could not be
found, and the clergy were under most painful apprehen-
sion, and would gladly have taken any reasonable conside-
ration rather than lose aU. At last, through the exertions
of Bishop Wilson and his son, they were discovered in the
Bolls 0£Sce, and the claim of the clergy was established.
The compensation then agreed on to be paid out of the
Derby estate was JE219 per annum ; but in 1809 Bishop
Crigan demanded a revisal, on the ground that the Earl of
Derby had granted to Bishop Barrow all tenths yearly
renewing, growing and increasing, and that the said tenths
had greatly increased since 1735, when the former compen-
sation was agreed on, and it was found that their real net
annual value was £663. Lord Derby hereupon agreed to
pay down the sum of £16,000 to be rid of the annual
charge on his estate altogether, and very unwisely the sum
was accepted, and spent in bad purchases of land returning

* Life of Bishop Wilson by Crutwell, 8vo. vol. i. p. 177.

50 THE ISLE OF MAN.

only about i£400 per annum. Before the sale of his rights
to the English Crown in 1765^ under the Act called the
Act of Revestment^ the Duke of Athol had sold half of the
impropriations fo different parties ; the other half is now
in the hands of the British Government, and amounts to
above £525* per annum. It thus appears that of more
than £1000 per annum, the present value of the third of
the tithe belonging anciently to the Abbey of Ru^en }br
the purposes of ecclesiastical education and relief of the
poor, none is appUed to its ancient use ; it is alienated
from the church; the £400 per annum i^pplied to the
augmentation of the salaries of the poorer clergy beirfg,
in reality, the proceeds of a certain claim upon an En-
glish nobleman^s estate, obtained of his ancestors, with
the moneys collected by the pious Bishop Barrow in
1666. •

Humble in its architectural pretensions as this abbey
is, it is the resting-place of the dust of mighty and pious
dead. It is known that Reginald, Bishop of Man, who
died in 1225, lies buried there t;01aveGodredson, king
of the Isle in 1226, whose bastard brother the usurper
Reginald j:, without any legal title himself, surrendered the
Isle to the Pope Honorius in 1219, was interred there in
1237 §; aiid so also was the Norwegian general Gospatrick
in 1240 II . Magnus ^, the last king of the Norwegian line,

* The jf 525 per annum received out of the tithe by the British
Government goes into the surplus revenue. The inhabitants claim
that the surplus should be spent in the island upon improvements^
and with seeming justice. Surely the church has an annual claim
upon that surplus fund to the extent of £625 for the augmentation
of the number of her clergy^ their training, and the general piirposes
of church education. — See Appendix, Note E.

t Chronicon Mannise, p. 44. § Ibid. p. 32.

J See Appendix, Note F. || Ibid. p. 34.

IF Magnus III., son of Olave Godredson^ was chosen king by

THE ABBOT STONE. 51

died in 1237^ and was also interred in the Abbey of Busben.
In the abbey garden may now be seen an ancient tomb-
stone^ or stone coffin-lid. On its surface is a raised cross
of beautiful device^ by the side of whose shaft is a knight's
sword. This is the famous so-called ^^ Abbot stone of
Bushen/' upon which certain erudite dissertations have
been written, and conjectures hazarded, such as that it was
the tomb of some ''sword-bishop,^' that is, a bishop exercis-
ing temporal and spiritual supreme authority. The floriated
head of the cross, having been somewhat damaged, has been
converted into a crosier by the imagination of the first
writer on the subject ; and subsequent authors have taken
his statement upon credit, instead of examining for them-
selves. It appears to have belonged certainly to the tomb
of a military person, but has nothing of the ecclesiastic
indicated upon it. Its date is probably of the thirteenth
century*.

In passing from the abbey-grounds and following south-
ward the course of the Silverbum, we soon find ourselves
upon a line of disturbance running S. 4ff W. magnetic,
and the limestone upon the saddle being broken, permits
the stream to pass onward in that direction, though there
is a cross fault at right angles near Ballasalla House with
the upcast on the south-western side, which seems to have
acted in some measure as a barrier against the river, and
perhaps at one period turned it down in the direction of
Derbyhaven. It is at any rate very interesting to observe

universal consent of the people in 1252, confirmed in Norway in
1254, and by Henry III. of England in 1256. He assisted Richard,
Bishop of the Isles, the next year, 1257, at the consecration of the
Abbey Church of St. Mary of Rushen, which had been begun 130
years before. He was the ninth and last of the race of Goddard
Crov&n, and left no child.

* We have given a view of this beautiful relic of the mediaeval
times.

52 THE ISLE OF MAN.

the action of the stream on the loose materials of the
boulder formation at an ancient period^ and the formation
of a species of basin to the northward of this faulty in
which have been deposited montane alluvia. The river
flows over the limestone for a considerable distance ; pro-
perly speakings this rock forms its bed all the way hence
to Castletown and the sea, though in the lower grounds
there may be intervening a foot or two of loam and alluvial
gravel and boulders.

As we pass down the Silverbum, a few hundred yards
below the flax-mill, we observe a good development of the
boulder clay formation where it has been worn away by
the river. The lower portion has a dirty bluish tinge, is very
loamy, and abounds in scratched fragments of rock, chiefly
limestone. A slight excavation would doubtless discover
the surface of the subjacent limestone, which, as seen in
the stream a hundred yards above, begins to rise here
towards an anticlinal eastward of this point ; and there is
little doubt but that, as in other places in this area, where-
ever the boulder clay is removed, this surface would be
found grooved and scratched with lines directed nearly
towards the magnetic west. The upper portion consists
chiefly of yellow sand, rather loamy, and with smaller
fragments of rock included, which seem generally foreign
to this immediate locality. The top of the bank consists
altogether of fine sand, which I presume belongs to the
platform of drift gravel and sand, whose elevation reaches
in this neighbourhood just to this height, as seen in the
fields on a level with the top of this bank. I am more
inclined to the belief that this sand is a portion of the
raised sea-beach of the drift than that it forms a bed in
the boulder formation and passes under the rounded hill
of the Creggins to the eastward. Yet the question has
its difficulties. Formerly I included the rounded hills of

DRIFT GRAVEL. 58

this neighbourhood in the drift-gravel series^ presuming
them to indicate its highest levels and to have been subse-
quently denuded and rounded during a period of elevation,
or a rush of water from the north-east. Further study
has led me to class them in the later period of the boulder
formation, and to restrict the term " driffc-graveP' series
to the great platform of gravel rising gradually inland
from the coast, indicative of a certain period of quiescence
and more regular stratification in the marine deposits.
The existence of such a platform is clearly made out if we
descend the stream for about 300 yards till we come to a
rustic wooden bridge, and then on the other side (the
eastern side) take a seat upon the steps which carry the
footpath alongside of the first gate which stops up the
bridle-road hence to the Creggins. 1^ is an enchanting
station for the lover of scenery, and deeply interesting will
it prove to the geologist*. The steps on which we are
sitting are fashioned out of the granite blocks which have
been roUed down the Silverbum by means in part of that
tributary branch of it which runs up to the granitic boss
at St. Mark^s,. and carries off the drainage from that water-
shed. Some of them have, no doubt, tumbled out of the
boulder formation in the uplands, at such a spot for in-
stance as Greenaby, where the stream may be seen under-
mining banks from which are sticking out granite blocks
which had been originally carried onwards from the great
granitic boss by the drifting currents and diluvial waves of
the boulder period along the south-eastern side of Barrule,
and lodged in the various depressions on the mountain's
side.

Let us look up the country. There, just over the
stream and the gravel terrace beyond, peeps up the modest
parish kirk, with its white-washed walls and ancient bell-

* See " View of the Creggins Hill from the Silverbum.'*

61 THE ISLE OF HAN.

turret. A painted eastern window has recently been in*
serted^ whicli casts a hallowed light within the church ;
and the antique granite font which for some time had
outside of it been catching the rain-water gathered from
its roof^ has b^n restored to the inside of the building
and occupies its proper place near the south door.

The name of the kirk and parish (Malew) is evidently a
corruption of the name of the patron^ St. Lupus, in honour
of whom the kirk was dedicated. The interior walls of the
church are largely occupied by monumental tablets, the
oldest of which bears the date 1578.

To the westward of the kirk rises Skybright, a rounded
hill of the boulder formation. On its top is perched a
solitary erratic block of white quartz. Report says that
once there was a gypcle there, and we may therefore regard
it as the one last memorial of the earhest burying-ground
eristing at this place. There seems a melancholy pleasure
in mingling our dustwith that of our ancestors. It is another
and a hallowed form of the spirit of patriotism which lingers
in solemn reverence about the spot where our fathers wor-
shiped when alive and are resting in death.* Thus we find
the kirk-yard of Malew, with its chiselled and dated grave-
stones, in close contact with the more ancient circle on
Skybright ; and thus too we find the present church of St.
Mary at Castletown near the site of the ancient temple of
Jupiter Augustus*.

Beyond Skybright we have Ballown resting in a wooded
hoUow, and thence a fine slope rises upwards towards Irey-
na-Lhaa and South Barrule. Directly in front the clear
stream comes purling down the valley through which we
have just passed. Looking up it in the far distance is

* In the grounds of Lorn House is a Roman altar, said to have
been originally removed to Castle Rushen by Bishop Wilson, when
he laid the foundation-stone of St. Mary's Chapel in 1698.

THE CBEGGINS. 55

Greebah^ like in shape to a decapitated pyramid. Its
nakedness is relieved by tbe denser foliage of the trees
vhich cluster around the old abbey aad the grounds of
Ballasalla House ; and there is a mistiness about it^ partly
arising from the distance and partly from the smoke of the
village of Ballasalla^ which hes hid down in the hollow.
The flax-mill forms a picturesque object in the nearer
landscape^ and we just hear its monotonous sound floating
down to us upon the streamlet and the breeze. The ' dis-
charged water from the wheej^ as it rushes from the con-
duit into the Silverbum below, raises many a bright burst-
ing bubble to the surface, and attracts around its embou-
chere a shoal of sportive trout. A hawthorn hedge at one
point borders the stream ; and the opposite bank is ifresh
with mosses and blooms with furze, not altogether, as
Goldsmith says, unprofltably gay, for the cattle browse
upon the tender shoots, and in some seasons of the year
the branches are bruised by the mountain farmers and
mixed with the other provender. And here close at hand
is the study for the geologist*.

The Creggins Hill in front is of an oblate hemisphe-
roidal shape, and rises to the height of 130 fe^t above the
high-water sea-level. To the north of it is a Ibwer hill of
similar shape and character,. and the major axis (so to
speak) of each of them runs nearly magnetic east and west,
in a direction towards which all the currents in this neigh-
bourhood tend. A flat terrace of gravd fringes round the
base of these hills at a height of twenty-six feet above
high-water mark. Yonder group of trees to the eastward,
hard by the high road and the Creggins farm-house, have
fixed their roots deep into and luxuriated upon this pebbly
platform. But the steps on which we are seated are <on

* See "View of CregginiB Hill from the Silverbum," and Plate
VI. section 1.

56 THE ISLE OF MAN.

the level of a still lower platform of fine alluvial sandy loam^
upon which the river in its meanderings has made great
inroads^ and deposited in its stead a considerable quantity
of montane detritus^ boulders^ gravel and sand. In the
comer of the field on our rights on the opposite side of the
road from the cottage^ is a patch of turfy ground^ firom un-
derneath which^ in a whitish marl^ have been turned up
some remains of Cenms megaceros. The drift-gravel di-
rectly before us is worn into cavities, presenting all the ap-
pearance of a low sea cliff exposed to the action of breakers*
Its height above the stream, which at one point is wearing
it away, is sixteen feet. If we were to follow the stream
downwards towards Castletown Harbour, we might find, in
the harbour itself below the level of high- water, trunks of
trees, chiefly hazel, which seem to have grown on the spot,
with leaves and nuts; and this, as we shall see hereafter, is
not the only locality in this southern area where we meet
with partially submerged forests.

The explanation of these phaenomena, the physical history
of the country to be read from these hieroglyphics, seems
to be this. The rounded hills of the newer boulder form-
ation, presenting all the characteristics of those which the
Swedish naturalists have described under the term osar
and trainees, having been partially raised above the sea-
level suffered considerable denudation, and contributed
largely towards the materials of the drift-gravel platform,
which was then the sea-bottom. This sea-bottom was
afterwards raised, whether by slow degrees or suddenly we
have hardly at present sufficient evidence to determine,
though it is not altogether improbable that it took place
at intervals during which the drift-gravel platform was
gieatly eroded and several depressions in it scooped out,
in which freshwater lakes afterwards existed. This ele-
vated drift platform connected the island with the sur-

SUBMERGED FORESTS. 57

rounding countries^ and was the means of the immigration
into it of various tribes of animals and the introduction of
several new species of plants.

Afterwards forest-trees sprang up, and a rich vegetation
clothed the surface. Another depression took place, and
the sea regained in part its former area and overthrew and
buried the forests.

There has subsequently been 9, partial re-emergence,
I am more inclined to this view of the position of the
half-submerged forests than to that which would attribute
it to a submergence going forward at the present period.

58 THB ISLE OF MAN.

CHAPTER VI.

The ancient Castle of Rushen — ^The ramparts, the moat, the glacis,
the keep. — ^Well in the drift-grayel. — ^The Derby family. — ^Bishop
Wilson. — ^View from the castle waUs. — ^The town. — ^The old chapel
and clock-room. — Legend of the Black Lady. — Hango Hill. —
Limestone blocks in the boulder day. — ^William Dhone. — Skele-
tons. — King William's College. — ^Ancient foundation. — ^Advice of
the Earl of Derby to his son. — ^Bishop Barrow. — ^The Isle of Man
an ancient seat of learning.

The ancient Castle of Rushen* occupies a commanding
position on the southern side of the Silverbum, where it
meets the salt-water on the western margin of Castletown
Bay. The best near view of it is perhaps from the stone
bridge at the northern extremity of the harbour. Its re-
semblance to the Danish Castle of Elsinore has before been
noted ; and of its great antiquity there is no doubt^ even
should the datef fixed upon for its commencement be
incorrect.

There is a solemn majesty about it^ and a solidity in
its masonry which betokens great strength. In the centre
is the keep^ whose ground-plan is an irregular rhombus^
the longer sides running nearly north and south. It is
flanked with towers on each side ; the eastern^ southern^
and western standing out from it of a square form ; the
northern rising upon the building itself. At its northern
extremity is a lofty portcullis^ passing which is an open

* St. Russin^ after whom the Castle, the Abbey, and the Sheading
have taken their name, was one of the twelve missionary fathers
who along with Columba settled in lona, a.d. 563.

t A.D. 947. See page 34 supra.

CARDINAL W0L8ET. 59

quadrangular courts with a well in the centre. The height
of this keep at its entrance is seventy-four feet^ and on the
right-hand side of it at entering^ a winding stone staircase
leads us by ninety-nine steps to the summit of the northern
or flag-tower^ the total height of which firom the ground
is eighty feet. The southern tower rises seventy feet^ and
contains the clock which was presented by Queen Elizabeth
in 1597^ when she was holding the island in trusty whilst
the rival claims between the heirs of Ferdinand and Wil-
liam were being litigated*. The east tower is seventy
feet^ and the west the same^ if we allow one foot for the
rise in the ground.

The thickness of the walls of the keep varies from seven
to twelve feet. On "the outside of it, at a short distance,
is an embattled wall, in height twenty-five feet, and nine
feet thick, with seven square towers at irregular intervals.
Ext^or to this wall was a fosse or moat, now filled up.
On the exterior of this moat is a glacis, erected, it is said,
by Cardinal Wolsey, when he was guardian to Edward,
the sixth Lord of Man. At three several points in this
glacis were formerly three low round towers or redoubts,
now in ruins. The best specimen of them is seen on the
north-western side, near the harbour.

If the ditch were filled from the river, it is plain that
there must have been some elevation of the land since its
formation; at the present time the highest tides seem
hardly capable of surrounding the castle with water to any
depth. But it is stated that a few years since some wooden
pipes were discovered conducting water to the castle from
a reservoir in the higher ground.

At the mouth of the harbour, and in its bed, the lime-
stone is seen to rise firom the bay on a saddle, whose axis

* Rolt's Isle of Man, page 42, edition 1773.

60 THE ISLE OF HAN*

runs S. 70^ W. magnetic^ and then to dip again inland'*^.
The boulder clay and the drift-gravel have filled np the
depression on the western side of this saddle^ and the
castle and town stand on the fine platform of gravel which
we have before had occasion to notice. The wells of the
castle and the town are sank through the gravel generally
to the clay. When carried too deep^ they are scnnetimes
rather brackish, in consequence of the sea-water, which
finds access through the harbour at high water, the dip of
the limestone inland preventing its easy return to the sea.
Let us re-enter the castle.

There is a winding road conducted between lofty ram-
parts from the ditch, where formerly was the drawbridge,
to the castle-gate and the first portcullisf.

To the left-hand a flight of stone steps leads to the
Bolls^ Office :( ; and on passing through the portcullis into
the open space between the two keeps, we observe on the
right-hand another flight of steps leading to the ramparts,
and conducting also to the Court House and the Council 1

Chamber. These buildings were formerly occupied by ,

the Derby family, and by the governors and lieutenant-
governors of the Isle to the time of the late lieutenant- ]
Governor-General, John Ready, who resided there between
two and three years §. A stone was lately thence removed
in making some repairs, on which are inscribed the letters

Between the old and new pier is a trap-dyke, which seems to
have greatly altered the limestone with which it is in contact. See
Plates II. and III.

T Anciently at the castle-gate were placed three stone sediHa, one

14^0*^ ^^^®"iw* and the other two for the deemsters. In the year

> Henry Byron, the lieutenant-governor, held a court of all the

^^ommons between the gates on the Tuesday next after the 20th day

§ l'^'^^TT^ *^® ^^^^^ archives are kept.

om House, to the northward of Castletown, has latterly been

^rmmsmmmmmmmmmm

THB EABL OF DERBY. 61

D. I. C.*, with the date 1644. I read them James and
Charlotte Derby^ who it is known resided here at that
date, when they saw the compiencement of the great rebel-
lion, in which the former, like the blessed king whom he
served, lost his head under the hands of cruel and unrea-
sonable menf*

As we enter the inner keep we have here too the memo-
rial of another holy man, who preferred a clear conscience
and Christian consistency to wretched expediency and a
time-serving surrender of a righteous cause. In this little
dark cell, on the left-hand^ was confined the apostolic
Thomas Wilson, who, ere he died, was one of the two
oldest, poorest, and most pious prelates in Christendom j;.
He had suspended Archdeacon Horrobin, the governor's
chaplain, for a serious breach of ecclesiastical discipline.
Governor Home in his rage and fury sent a band of
soldiers to Bishop's Court, who conveyed the good man to
Castle Bushen, where he was immured for two months.
On the opposite side of the entrance, at the foot of the

the Lieutenant-Governor's residence : it is the property of the Cun-
ninghame family.

* Thus:-

]

I c.

164.4<

t For an account of James, seventh Earl of Derby, see Appendix,
NoteG.

t '' Cardinal Fleury wanted much to see him, and sent over on
purpose to inquire after his health, his age, and the date of his con-
secration, as they were the two oldest hishops, and he believed the
poorest in Europe ; at the same time inviting him to France. The
bishop sent the cardinal an answer which gave him so high an
opinion of him that he obtained an order that no French privateer
should ravage the Isle of Man." — CmtweU's Life of Bishop Wilson,
8vo edition, vol. i. page 226.

62 THE ISLE OF MAN.

flag-tower stairs^ is another cell^ in which were confined at
the same time the bishop's two vicars-general.

Let us now ascend by the spiral staircase to the summit
of the tower^ observing first on the headstone of the door-
way* of the cell at its foot the date 1103 ; here seventy-
two steps bring us to the room at present used for the
chapel^ thence eighteen steps lead us on to the roof^ and
^nine more to the upper platform of the flag-tower. Now
let us look around.

In the far south-west Ues the Calf of Man^ with the
rocks called the Borrough and the Eye, — the former pro-
jecting from the island, the other isolated, and both drilled
through by the action of the sea at a higher relative level f.
Spanish Head rears its awfal front towards Fort St. Mary
Bay, and the rocks in its neighbourhood are rent by a
landslip into chasms 300 feet deep. The fine gravel plat-
form on which Castle Bushen is built seems, as regarded
from this point, to extend almost unbroken to Fort St.
Mary and Fort Erin, the intersecting rivers not being
distinguished ; and the geologist will mark well the clear
straight line which the drift platform presents against the
western horizon, as contrasted with the broken and irre-
gular outline of Brada Head and the Mull Hills, which
tower upwards on either side to the height of 600 feet.

Directly over Fort Erin, in the gap between the head-
lands just named, on a clear day, we can mark far away
over the Irish Sea the magnificent granitic mountains of
Moume, Slieve Donard, and Slieve Bingian.

Directing the telescope to the south, we may on a
tolerably clear day discern the Faris Mountain in Anglesea,

* The style of this and most of the other doorways is the square-
headed trefoil arch, which prevailed in England in the twelfth
century.

t See Plate VII., section 6.

ST. MAILTOS CHUBCH. 63

and still more to the eastward the Snowdownian range^
with Caraedd-Llewellyn and Penmaenmawr. A great gap
in the horizontal traverse then occurs — nihil nisi pontus et
aer — ^till we reach at a north-eastern point Black Coombe
in Cumberland^ and the mountains beyond it round about
SkawfeU and Langdale Pikes. The more northern giants
of Cumberland are intercepted by the nearer though very
inferior elevations of this island^ beginning with Santon
Head and Douglas Head; whilst the "Land o^ Cakes"
is shut out altogether by Monads Monarch and supporters ;
and of these the view from the castle-tower is highly in-
teresting and imposing^ from the manner in which they
are grouped together.

And then trace out the nearer landscape^ the deep in-
dentations of Poolvash Bay, Castletown Bay, and Derby-
haven, crowded as they are in the summer months with
the herring-fleet of from three to four hundred sail. And
how beautiful the upland slope towards the dark heather-
clad South Barrule, and the granitic boss above St. Mark^s,
whence the silver river comes flowing down, and meander-
ing in the alluvial valley before us, till it mixes with the
sea-water in the harbour at our feet I

We have also still nearer a bird^s-eye view of the town
itself, the spacious market-place and parade, with its
Doric freestone column, an honorary memorial of the ex-
cellent Governor Smelt*. There to the right is the market-
house, and opposite to it the barracks ; and hark ! that is
the trumpet-call to parade. St. Mary^s Church t occupies

* Erected in 1836.

t In clearing away the foundation of the ancient cross which
stood in the market-place, when the new portico of St. Mary's
Chapel was erected in 1826, three Roman coias of Germanicus and
Agricola were discovered. The first erection of St. Mary's Chapel
was by Bishop Wilson in 1698. See Cratwell's Life of Bishop Wil-
son, vol. i. page 41, 8vo edition.

64 THE IBLE OF MAN*

the south-eastern extremity of the market-place, and a
little to the north of it is situated the Free School*, which
was the more ancient church of St. Mary of Bushen, and
has still about it more g[ the true character of church
architecture than the modem erection.

That square building in the open space to the east of
the Castle is the House of Keys, the place of meeting of
the Insular Parliament, consisting of twenty-four members,
or Taxiaxit, whose original institution dates back to the
reign of (Jorree or Orry, in the tenth century. And we
must not overlook the old and new piers at the entrance

* Of which the bishop and archdeacon are trustees : free-boys
10; master's salaiy 60/. per annum. — Isle of Man Charities, p. 23.

t Mr. Feltham states (page 139 of his Tour through the Isle of
Man), on the authority of Mr. C. Vallancey, that '' in the Gaedhlic
taisce means a pledge or mortgage, and aisce a trespass ;" and he
infers that these Taxiaxi were originally hostages to the Lord of the
Isle for their different clans. In the statute-hook there is a docu-
ment (drawn up in 1422, when the great meeting of the Commons \
was held at Reneurling in Kirk Michael) which states " that there
•were never twenty-four Keys in certainty since they were first called
Taxiaxi : these were twenty-four freeholders, to wit, eight in the out
isles and sixteen in your land of Man, and that was in King Orry's
days. Aiid since they have not been in certainty, but if a strange
point will come which the Lieutenant will have reserved to the
Tynwald twice in the year; and by the leave of the Lieutenant the
deemsters there to call of the best to his Council in that point as he
thinks fit to give judgment ; and without the Lord's will none of the
twenty-four Keys to be." At the Court held at Castle Rushen in
1430 by Henry Byron, as before stated, six men out of every
Sheading being chosen by the people and presented to him, he
selected four out of each six and so made up the number twenty-
four. At the present time, when one member dies or is discharged,
the resf present two persons to the Governor, from whom he chooses
one to fiU up the vacancy. The name Keys is perhaps derived from
the Manks " Keesh," a tax. Till 1706 the Keys met in a room in
the Castle. The present building was ocpupied by them in 1818.

THE CASTLE CHAPEL. 65

to the harbour^ altogether of iusular materials and work-
manship^ and the guard-house just in front of the caatle
gates, with its lounging inmates and sentinel pacing to
and fro.

But we have not quite done with the castle itself, — we
must visit the clock-tower, where the antiquarian will find
objects for his study.

We may have observed that the windows looking in
upon the central open square of the keep have relics of
tracery worked in freestone, and evidently inserted at a
date later than the building of the castle. In looking at
the castle from the outside (say from the drawbridge over
the river), we observe one of these more ornamented win-
dows on the eastern side of the clock-tower. I had long
a suspicion that this might have been the eastern window
ot'the old chapel, and an examination of the interior of it
converted the suspicion into a certainty.

On each side of the oriel window is a stone ledge on
which rested the ancient altar, on the southern side of it a '
piscina, and on the north a small niche or cupboard (an
equivalent of the credence table) for containing the sacred
elements. In the northern angle of the little chapel, which
is hardly fifteen feet square, is a small grated window com-
municating apparently with a cell, which has been since
thrown into a passage ; we may readily conjecture this to
have been the Confessional. ''Here at any rate was the old
chapel of the castle garrison, and we may feel thankful
that it has been converted to no other use than that of con-
taining the more recent though still venerable clock, which
is itself not without interest. It was a present from Queen
Elizabeth (a^ we have before noticed), and an improvement
on the antique sundial upon the market-cross below ; and
the bell, upon which the hours are tolled, was by its in-
scription the gift of James, tenth Earl of the noble house

66 . THE ISLE OF MAN.

of Derby^ the last connected with the Isle of Man^ in the
year 1729, six years before his death.

How long this ancient chapel may be occupied by this
solemn monitor of the lapse of time 't is hard to tell. An
unsightly addition to the castle within the last two years
has blocked up the clock-face^ and pubUc convenience
may perhaps demand the removal of the machine to a
more conspicuous locality. O tempora! O mares! We still
have to go to school to the architects of the decried dark
ages.

There are strange tales afloat respecting this castle and
its inmates in days of yore. Tradition connects the castle
with the Abbey of Rushen by means of a subterranean
passage*^ which the lover of romance at one time has ren-
dered subservient to the rescue of a captive maiden by her
affianced knight^ at another has described as a kind of
facilis descensus Avemi, the dark road to the Home of the
spell-bound Giants. There is Uttle need of fiction to give
interest to a building whose realities are all romantic^ and
must move to sadness the heart that can feel for others'
woes; but Waldron's account of the Black Lady of Castle
Bushen is given with such a zest for the marvellous^ that
it may perhaps relieve the tedium of what some will deem
a dry matter-of-fact description of this reUc of feudal pomp |

and powert.

''A mighty bustle they' also make of an apparition
which, they say, haunts Castle Bushen in the form of a '

woman, who was some years ago executed for the murder
of her child. I have heard not only the debtors, but the (

* The fact of dark cells built in the solid foundations of the towers
and strongly arched over was established in certain repairs of the
building made in 1816.

t Waldron's Description of the Isle of Man, folio edition, 173U
page 136.

THB BLACK LADT. 67

soldiers of the garrison^ affirm that they have seen it at
various times ; but what I took most notice of was the re«
port of a gentleman^ of whose good understanding as well
as veracity I have a very high opinion. He told me^ that
happening to be abroad late one nighty and caught in an
excessive storm of wind and rain, he saw a woman stand
before the castle gate ; and as the place afforded not the
smallest shelter, the circumstance surprized him, and he
wondered that any one, particularly a female, should not
rather run to some Uttle porch or shed, of which there are
several in Castletown, than choose to stand stiQ, alone
and exposed to such a dreadful tempest. His curiosity ex-
citing him to draw nearer that he might discover who it
was that seemed so Httle to regard the fary of the elements,
he perceived she retreated on his approach, and at last, he
thought, went into the castle though the gates were shut.
This obliging him to think that he had seen a spirit, sent
him home very much terrified : but the next day relating
his adventure to some people who lived in the castle, and
describing as near as he could the garb and stature of the
apparition, they told him it was that of the woman above-
mentioned, who had frequently been observed by the sol-
diers on guard to pass in and out of the gates, as well as
to walk through the rooms, though there were no visible
means to enter. Though so familiar to the eye, no person
has yet had the courage to speak to it ; and as they say
that a spirit has no power to reveal its mind unless con-
jured to do so in a proper manner, the reason of its being
permitted to wander is unknown.^'

On leaving Castle Bushen, and the heroes both of ro-
mance and reality who make a figure on the page of its
history, are two objects in the immediate neighbourhpod
closely associated with one of them, and serving to keep
up our interest in the character of the great and unfortu-

68 THE ISLE OF MAN.

nate James Stanley^ seventh Earl of Derby^ and his most
truly heroic Countess^ — ^these are Mount Strange and
King William^s College.

At the head of Castletown Bay is a singular and cha-
racteristic patch of the boulder clay formation. It seems
to have been originally one of those low^ rounded^ ellip-
soidal hills of that formation^ which we have had occasion
already to notice in the neighbourhood of the Creggins^
but of a still more diminutive character^ hardly rising
twenty-four feet above the present high-water level. The
continued action of the sea^ the rain and the wind^ has in
the lapse of time reduced this mound to at most only half
its original size^ and now it presents a low cliff to the
south-westward^ affording an excellent insight into its
structure.

Let us imagine an inland lake^ which in the extremity
of a most severe winter has been frozen to a great thick-
ness^ bursting from the accession of waters on a sudden
thaw ; or rather let us call to mind the magnificent spec-
tacle of the deb&cle of the Val de Bagnes* in the autumn
of 1818, brought about by the extension of the Glacier de
Getroz, and the consequent stoppage of the Dranse in the
previous winter. The melting of the icy barrier, aided by
the reflex action of the overpouring cascade, let loose in
half an hour 500 million of cubic feet of water, to roar
and rage and roll onwards through a narrow and tortuous
gorge with unspeakable velocity and with awful grandeur;
and thus ultimately a vast torrent of water, mud, gravel,
boulders and blocks of ice poured forth upon the devoted
district of Martigny, sweeping down in its passage trees,
bridges, bams, cottages, and even large buildings.

Arrest such a torrent in its course, and, fixing it upon

* For an account of this deb^le see Lyell's Geology, vol. i., or
Edinburgh Phil. Journal, vol. i.

HANOO HILL. 69

the spot^ permit the waters quietly to drain off^ and you
have in character just such an accumulation as that pre-
sented at the head of Castletown Bay^ only substituting in
the latter place angular and scratched blocks of limestone
for the angular and scratched blocks of ice.

We have a consoUdated mass of black or dirty blue mud,
such as we can easily imagine to be formed by the grind-
ing down of the dark Umestones and shales of this district,
such a debris in fact as is formed in the yards of the stone-
masons of this neighbourhood where this same hmestone
is cut and polished. In it we find mixed up confusedly
gravel and sand^ and pebbles (not large) of foreign rocks,
granites, syenites and porphyries, fragments of the coal-
measures of Cumberland, and one or two chalk flints*.
We have some boulders of the insular granite and larger
masses of insular rock, such as greenstone and old red
conglomerate, but above all masses of limestone in rhom-
boidal blocks, some weighing upwards of a ton and having
the appearance of transport from Coshnahawin, a mile and
a half to the north-eastward, where we find the limestone
beds on the sea-shore cracked and broken up into similar
masses by the intrusion and subsequent cooling down of
trap. These limestone blocks seem pushed over one upon
the other, and piled up amongst the gravel, sand and clay
in wondrous confusion.

Here is the stady for the geologist ; and he might, per-
haps, imagine that one of the names of the spot, Mount
Strange t> has something to do with the extraordinary

* The nearest locality of the chalk is in the north of Ireland. It
is just possihle that the examples of chalk-flint which I have found in
the boulder clay of Hango Hill may have tumbled down out of the
overlying drift-gravel.

t It is generally known by the name Hango Hill^ from its having
been formerly used as a place of execution.

70 THE ISLE OF MAN.

history of its physical composition ; but it is not so. The
name is taken from one of the titles of the Derby family,
and the locality is famous for an event which has been con-
sidered by some as casting a shade over the memory of that
illustrious lady, whose defence of Lathom House*, and
uncompromising fidelity to her sovereign and her liege
lord, showed her worthy of being the wife of the great and
good James, the seventh Earl of that noble family.

In the parish register of Kirk Malew is the following
notice: — '^Mr. William Christian of Ronaldsway, late
Receiver, was shot to death at Hango Hill, 2nd January,
1662. He died most penitently and most courageously,
made a good end, prayed earnestly, and next day was
buried in the chancel of Kirk Malew.^'

The crime for which he suffered was alleged treason
against the Countess of Derby, in that he had in the year
1651 headed an insurrection against her, and, taking the
sovereign power into his own hands, had thereby deprived
her and her heirs of their vested rights. He made no at-
tempt in court to defend himself against the charge, alle-
ging his Majesty Charles the Second's general pardon and
indemnity as a sufficient bar against all legal proceedings.
This plea was overruled by a majority of the court, as not
availing in case of treason against a member of the reign-
ing family ; and he was sentenced forthwith to be " shot
to death, that thereupon his life may depart from his
bodyt/'

♦ See Peck's Desiderata Curiosa, vol. ii. p. 449.

t Sir Walter Scott iif his * Peveril of the Peak/ has erroneously
stated that his execution took place in the court-yard of Peel Castle.
He has perhaps confounded this William Christian with Edward
Christian, who died in Peel Castle in 1670, having been committed
by the Earl of Derby in 1643, on his attempting a disturbance. He
had been governor in 1628.

WILLIAM DHONE. 71

The memory of William Dhone is held sacred by Manx-
men^ and he has been regarded by them as a martyr to
the cause of popular liberty. It is difficult at this distance
of time^ when the whole tone and character of society has
so entirely changed^ to pass a correct judgement upon acts
which^ if attempted now^ would doubtless be reprobated as
excessively harsh and unjustifiable.

That was not a period when those who had power felt
themselves amenable to the judgement of their fellow-men
as to the manner in which they should use it. The royal-
ists had suffered too great injustice at the hands of the
Roundheads in the period of the great rebellion^ to be over
scrupulous of the exact Umits of justice towards the weaker
party when the power was restored into their hands. They
would doubtless endeavour to excuse any excess on the
severer side^ by the argument that '^ those should have
judgement without mercy who had showed no mercy .'^

The husband of the noble Countess had^ in defiance of
all the laws of war, been condemned by a court-martial to
lose his head, after quarter for life had absolutely been
granted to him on his surrender ; and he was put to death
under aggravated circumstances of insult. William Chris-
tian was a protegi of the Earl, who reposed in him so
much confidence as to leave him with the command of the
insular troops, and as the protector of his wife and children.
He enters into a conspiracy '^to withstand the Lady of
Derby in her designs ;'' and within eight days after the
murder of her husband, at the head of a popular insurrec-
tion, forces the widowed and sorrowing Countess to con-
sent to their demands.

It has been further stated, and never clearly disproved,
that on the first appearance of the parliamentary troops
under Colonel Duckenfield off the island, William ChristJailF
at dead of night seized on the Countess and her famil]^ in

72 THE ISLE OF MAN.

Castle Rushen^ and conveyed them as prisoners to the in-
vading army. Into the true character of this man we may
perhaps gain some further insight^ from the circumstance
that when James Chaloner was appointed commissioner by
Lord Fairfax^ he found it necessary to sequestrate the
estate of the Receiver-General^ to make compensation for
the unaccounted for arrears of the exchequer^ and impri-
soned his brother John for assisting him in escapmg off
the island.

With a knowledge of these facts^ let us place ourselves
in the position of the Derby family at the period of the
Restoration, and we shall perhaps own the temptation very
great to hasten the downfall and death of such a character.

Since that event time and tide have done their work of
devastation upon this spot. That old gray battlemented
ruin crowning the mount was then standing in the midst
of a circular area, and there was a drive all round it, and
the cliff was removed some thirty or forty yards from the
building. Already has one side of the large rectangular
room which it contained become a prey to the waves, and
the remainder totters on the brink of a precipice, which
each equinoctial spring-tide bids fair wholly to pull down.

" No more the glance
Of blazing taper thro' its windows beams
And quivers o'er the undulating wave ;
But naked stand the melancholy walls,
Lash'd by the wintry tempests cold and bleak.
Which piece-meal crumble down the whole to dust."

The ground was anciently used as a place of sepulture,
and as the cliff tumbles down, the graves are exposed to
view, and the skeletons one after another become the sport
of the rolling surge. It has been presumed that these are
the mortal remains of criminals who have been executed
on the spot. If so, they must have suffered at a period

KING William's college. 73

anterior to the erection of the bmlding now in ruins, for
the destruction of the last winter has discovered skeletons
direetly under the very foundation of it*. I am somewhat
inclined to the belief that we have here one of the many
ancient tumuli which are scattered about the island; and
that the use of the spot as a place of execution, and its
ccmsequent nomenclature, is of a more recent date.

But we have not yet entirely bid farewell to him with
whom it has been well said, '^the sun of the house of
Stanley set in clouds and darkness/'

There is good reason for tracing up the origin of King
William's College to the great Earl of Derby who perished
at Bolton. In that letter of advice f to his son Charles,
which he wrote in 1643, during his sojourn at Castle
Bushen, we meet with these two clauses : '^ Fear God,
honour the King. Have this in your thoughts, first to
choose a reverend and holy man to your bishop;^' and
^^ I had a design, and God may enable me to set up an
university without much charge (as I have conceived it),
which may much oblige the nations round about us. It
may get friends unto the country and enrich this land.
This certainly would please God and man." The troublous
times in which he lived and died, prevented him from
carrying out these pious designs. His son, when restored
to his own, remembered one part of that advice, which
has led, after the lapse of nearly two centuries, to an at-
tempt at carrying out the wish of the father as above ex-
pressed. In 1661, good Mr. Butter, who had been arch-
deacon for many years, was appointed to the bishopric, a

* In addition to the case of William Christian before mentioned,
there is another memorandum in the parish register, stating that in
the year 1664 Kewiih and Callow of Kirk Maughold, who were
executed at Hango Hill, were buried in Kirk Malew.

t See Peck's Desiderata Curiosa, vol. ii. p. 429.

74 THE ISLE OF MAN.

man for whom (said the Earl to his son) you and I may
both thank God. He was removed by death* in two years,
and in his place was appointed Dr. Isaac Barrow f (after-
wards translated to St. Asaph), who at the same time was
made governor of the Isle. And in this joint office as
sword-bishop, or governor both in civil and .ecclesiastical
state, he conferred in the short period of his stay most im-
portant and lasting benefits upon this church and people.
It has before been noticed]:, that at the period of the
Eeformation the abbey third of the insular tithe fell into
the hands of the Lord of the Isle, and that Bishop Barrow
managed to purchase a long lease of those impropriations
from Charles, the eighth Earl of Derby, and with these im-
propriations he increased the salaries of the poorer clergy.
After the purchase a small sum remained in his hands,
which was afterwards increased to £600, which he directed
should be applied towards furnishing a master for his pro-
posed academic institution. He also by will granted the
sum of £20 per annum, due and arising out of the profits
of the estate of Ballagilley and Hango HiU, towards the

* The following singular epitaph, written by himself, was placed
on the tomb of Bishop Rutter in Peel Cathedral, inscribed on a
brass-plate. The plate was removed from the tomb about fifty years
ago, and was supposed to be lost or destroyed, but was discovered
in 1844 at the bottom of a well near the sally-port of Peel Castle.
In hac domo quam a vermiculis
Accepi confratribus meis spe

Resurrectionis ad vitam
Jaceo Sam permissione divina

Episcopus hujus insulse.
Siste, Lector} = {Vide ac ride
Palatium Episcopi.
Obiit XXX° die mensis Maii 1663.
t Fellow of Eton, and uncle to the famous Dr. Isaac Barrow,
Master of Trinity College, Cambridge.
X Page 49, supra.

BISHOP BABROW^S FUND. 75

mainteDance of three boys at this academic school when
it should be settled; or in case there should be no such
school within twelve months after his decease, then to-
wai^ds the maintenance of two youths at some university
abroad*. In the year 1728, the trustees of Bishop Bar-
row^s fund came into full possession of the above estates ;
and after the year 1808, the Academic Masters* fund and
the Academic Students' fund were merged into one trust.

The accumulations from this trust, aided by public sub-
scriptions and a mortgage on the Ballagilley and Hango
Hill estates, enabled the trustees to commence the erection
of the present, college, which was first opened for the re-
ception of students on the 1st of August, 1833, and named
in memory of his Majesty King William IV.

Writing in the year 1829, Lord Teignmouth says,
'* Bishop Ward does not despair of executing another pro-
ject — ^the foundation of a college for the education of the
Manx clergy. The success which has rewarded a similar
plan of the Bishop of St. David's, aflfbrds him ^ much en-
couragement ; and it is hoped that such a place of educa-
tion might, from its vicinity, and from the great cheapness
of living, attract students from Ireland and the adjacent
parts of England, who could not otherwise afford the ex-
penses of a residence at College ; and that Mona may be-
come once more, as in ancient times, the fountain of honest
learning and erudition f.^'

* At the present^ three youths at Cambridge are holding exhi-
bitions from this estate of thirty pounds a-year each.

t " Hector Boetius says that Man was the fountain of all honest
learning and erudition. Others of the Scotch nation held it to be
the Mansion of the Muses, and the Royal Academy for educating
the heirs apparent of the crown of Scotland, as Eugenius the Third
himself, who likewise sent three of his sons into the Isle of Man to
be educated under Conanus, whom they write Bishop of Sodor,
two of which, Ferquard and Donald, were successively kings of

£2

76 THE ISLE OF MAN.

And in a note written in 1836, he adds, ''It affords
me much gratification to state the successful result of the
zealous efforts of Bishop Ward, and other trustees of Bishop
Barrow^s fund, to establish a college for the objects above
specified. That worthy Prelate's pious intentions have
been thus fulfilled, after an interval of nearly two cen-
turies/'

May we not believe that Bishop Barrow had before him
the suggestions of the illustrious Earl of Derby in his
famous letter to his son, and that to such suggestions
King William's College is somewhat indebted for its pre-
sent existence ?*

Scotland, as both Hector Boetiiu and HoUinshead witness. So
celebrated was the discipline of those ages, that it seems to have
passed into a law that the princes d Scotland should be educated
in this island." — SacheyereU's Account of the Isle of Man, the In-
troduction, p. 5.

* For a further account of King William's College see note H,
Appendix.

CASTLETOWN BAY. 77

CHAPTER VII.

Castletown Bay. — The Scraans. — ^The race-course. — Sir Isaac New-
ton. — Measures of time and space. — ^The measure of a man. — The
former extent of the drift-graveL — ^Time occupied in its erosion and
in the formation of the Irish Sea. — Consideration of time arising
from the composition of a gravel bed. — ^The drcuit of Langness.
— ^Trap-dykes, Bosses, Natural arches. — Round tower. — Por-
phyry. — St. Michael's Isle. — Ruined oratory. — The old fort.

On the eastern side of Hango Hill is a grassy recess open-
ing to the souths and affording a pleasing view of Castle-
town and its extensive horse-shoe bay. The town is well
relieved against the dark mass of the Mull Hills which
rise over the bold cUffs of Spanish Head; St. Mary^s
Chapel^ the Castle and the five-sailed windmill standing
prominently forth with the two quays and the shipping in
fronts and the whole picture falls again upon the eye re-
versed in the watery mirror at our feet.

A series of marine residences occupy the shore to the
south of the town terminating with Scarlet House, thence
the coast-line sweeps gently south-eastward; and where
the limestone rises on a series of undulations against the
outburst of igneous rock, forming at its extremity the
basaltic. pile called the Stack of Scarlet, a group of lime-
kilns, with their front seaward, may easily be mistaken for
a battery guarding the entrance to the bay.

The opposite horn of the bay is formed by the southern
point of the peninsula of Langness, or as it is written in
the old map of the island before alluded to, " the poynt
Langnouse.'^ It is a mass of clay-schist tilted and con-
torted between two hard greenstone dykes, which here run

78 THE I8LE OF MAN.

out into the sea S. 70^ W. magnetic^ nearly in a line with
the Eye of the Calf^ and form the Scraans^ an awkward
reef on which the tide sets with great force firom the Calf
of Man. In the hollow of Langness^ leaning up against
the schist^ and just at the angle bending over it in a saddle,
is the Old Red conglomerate and sandstone which forms
the entire eastern coast-line of the bay till we reach the
isthmus of Derbyhaven. The isthmus itself is formed by
a long bank of gravel and sand, which I believe to belong
to the drift period,, though it has the general character of
the sand dunes which are found on coasts liable to periodic
winds*.

This bank extends all along the head of the bay to
Hango Hill, and is clothed with a short and sweet herbage
and crowded with wild flowers. The purple thyme creeps
along upon the ground, mixing with the yellow flowers of
trefoil and galium, and the vernal squill with its pale blue
petals rears its graceful head in spite of the stormy south*
westers that sweep across the bay; the sea-holly {Eryn-
gium mariiimum) has sent down its long taper roots into
the sand^ and flourishes even amongst the shingle which
has been driven by the tides high and dry on the shore.
As the bank dries up almost immediately after a shower,
and commands very beautiful views, it is a favourite pro-
menade of the neighbourhood, and is known familiarly by
the name of the Race, from the circumstance of its having
been used as a race-ground some few years ago. The
fishermen spread forth their nets here on the Saturday's
eve at the close of the herring season, when the shoal has
come down to the bays in the south of the island, and
the little children amuse themselves afterwards in pick-
ing up the bits of coarse coral and the star-fish and sea-

A cutting made for a dram last summer shows alternating layers
of pebbles, sand and loam.

THE MEASURE OF A MAN. 79

urchins which have been entangled in them and dragged
ashore.

The saying of the great and yet humble-minded Newton,
towards the close of that bright career of physical discovery
which has placed his name high upon the list of those
illustrious philosophers of whom Great Britain justly
boasts^ will often occur to us in our sea-side rambles:
^^ I seem to myself but as a child who has been permitted
to gather a few bright pebbles on the shore, whilst the
vast ocean of eternal truth has lain before me wholly un-
explored.^'

The works and the monuments of man we may easily
measure by our own finite standards of time and space, by
days, months and years, by inches, feet and miles ; but
our scales are all too large or too small when we attempt to
apply them to the measurement of the works of Him from
whom the Monad and the Archangel are alike infinitely
removed, and to whom they are still alike most intimately
known; of Him ^'who inhabiteth eternity, and is the same
yesterday, to-day and for ever.''

What an astounding idea of time is presented by the
scene which we are now contemplating ! The age of the
ruin on the cliff above us we may talk about, the years
also of the venerable Castle, which still rears its head un-
scathed over the western margin of the bay, are all nimi-
bered : these are the works of man, and come within the
measure of a man. But what dare we say of the age of
that bed of gravel which runs like a fringe all round the
bay, capping all the rocks which are twenty feet above
high water mark ? Let us pass over this raised sea-beach
on which we are sitting, which is not more than eight or
ten feet above the present high water sea level; for since
it contains shells not apparently differing at all from those
now inhabiting the neighbouring sea, it may be considered

80 THX I8IJB OF HAN.

geologkaUy recent, though the very gradual rise by whidi
it seems to have been laid dry, may have been going on
long antecedent to the period which we call historical.

It is very readily seen how this drift-gravel bed was at
one time at the bottom of. the sea, and that it was spread
out pretty evenly on all sides, filling up every depression,
and thus of course filling up the bay of Castletown ; so
that on the elevation of the sea*bottom there would be a
tolerably plane surface of boulder clay, drift-gravel and
sand extending across firom Langness to the Castletown
side of the bay, at the same general level as the terrace of
drift which now only circles it around.

In few words, then, there was at one time a line of diff
extending from the Stack of Scarlet to the point of Lang-
ness, similar to that which is now seen three miles inland
from those points at the Head of Castletown Bay. Let us
suppose that here the sea began its eroding work upon the
drift-gravel platform, and how many thousand years has it
been in eating its way up to Hango Hill f We have said
that in 1662 (0. S.), when William Dhone was here shot
to death, the cliff was probably removed fipom thirty to
forty feet from the building. Let us reckon the work (^
destruction to have been sixty feet in the last 200 years
(and the old maps of the island, and the situation of
Castletown Harbour itself forbid us to allow much more),
and we have one yard in ten years, that is, at this rate of
waste it requires more than 50,000 years for the excava-
tion of Castletown Bay.

When the sea cliff was more exposed no doubt its de-
struction would be much more rapid, and we therefore
may very well make a considerable reduction on the above
period. But when we have even halved and quartered it,
there are years enough remaining to make one start back
in amazement at the conclusion at which we have anived.

CONSIDERATIONS OF TIME. 81

Yet we have not done with the question of the drift-
gravel platform^ and the ages consumed in its destruction.
ReUcs of this platform remain on the coasts of all the
countries surrounding the Isle of Man^ on the coasts of
England^ Wales^ Ireland and Scotland ; and there is every
evidence we can desire for showing that by it were these
countries connected together^ and that at the same tiii^e
and in the same manner England was connected with the
continent of Europe*. This drift-gravely then^ occupied the
whole area of the present Irish Sea; and the cliff which
we have spoken of as extending from the Stack of Scarlet
to Langness Pointy we may on the same considerations
ifemove in ages long before to a line across the mouth of
St. George's Channel. Now bid the Ocean do its work,
and then calculate the ages it would be occupied in making
its cutting and removing the excavated materials between
St. David's Head and the Head of Castletown Bay.

In speaking of the destruction of this great gravel plat-
form^ nothing has as yet been said of the time taken up in
its formation. We have not spoken of the years during
which the different pebbles, of which it is in great part
composed, were being rolled about and funded into their
present shape, after they were broken off firom their parent
rock and exposed to the action Df "the tides upon the coast.
We have hardly yet alluded to the fact that many of them
existed in the shape of pebbles in an older formation (the
boulder clay), out of which they were washed and sifted
and sorted ere they were distributed in layers in the more
recent drift. Nor have we touched upon the consideration
that the rock itself, from which they were originally broken
off, was once a bank of sand or mud, which had been
formed by quiet deposit of layer upon layer at the bottom

* See Professor E. Forbes' papers in the Appendix.

E 5

g2 THE IBLE OF MAN.

of the sea before it was consolidated, and then heaved up
to become a coast-line, and again exposed to the breakers.
Still would there be the consideration of the wave upon
wave which broke upon that first granitic mass which ap-
peared above the primaval ocean, and so wore it away
particle after particle to form the first sedimentary deposit.
We can measure our own age, and the age of our most
lasting works, by the grains of sand which run through
our hour-glasses; but to measure the age of those very
sands, we must apply cycles made up of the revolutions
of the sun itself about the far-off centre of our sidereal
system.

From Hango Hill we may start on a short excursion
round Langness, which, as may be seen by reference to
the geological map, will bring us into acquaintance with
three distinct palaeozoic formations within small compass —
the Schist, the Old Red Conglomerate and the Limestone,
being the representatives of the Silurian, Devonian, and
Carboniferous periods. The Old Red cropping out from
under the limestone on the eastern side of the bay, and
reclining upon the schist, we can walk across the basset*
edge, and within a very short space get an insight into the
order of deposition and the character of the rocks.

As we pass along the shore at the head of the bay in an
easterly direction when the tide is out, we can break up
with our hammer one bed after another of the lower lime-
stone series, consisting of dark-coloured Umestones and
shales ; and without much trouble can gather together a
fair collection of the characteristic fossils ; Gigantic Turbi-
nolia, specimens oiProductushemispluBricuSy Orthis Sharpei,
Leptisna papiUonacea, Bellerophon apertus, and Cirrus ro-
tundatus meet the eye.
The limestone rocks in the north-eastern comer of the

TRAVELLED BLOCKS. 83

bay, just before we come upon the old red conglomerate,
are of a brown arenaceous character, and highly crystalline
in texture. I believe they have been much altered by the
escape of heated gases, containing acids, through the cracks
formed at the period of the intrusion of the trap of this
neighbourhood amongst the subjacent beds of the old red
conglomerate. We very soon come upon a narrow trap-
dyke, running at first southward down the axis of the
saddle, into which it has thrown the old red conglomerate,
till it reaches the great dyke, which, intersecting the
peninsula of Langness, crosses Castletown Bay^ and is
observed again in the harbour between the old and new
piers. It requires a practised eye to distinguish the trap
here amongst the sea-weed and pools of muddy water
which the higher tides only just reach.

This comer of the bay is a place of great resort for
wild-fowl, ducks and geese, which *^ dulcibus in stagnis
rimantur;" and here too the long-legged sohtary heron
may ofttimes be seen lazily flapping his wings and drying
himself in the sun.

It is also interesting to mark on the shore a series of
large boulders of porphyritic greenstone, placed in a Une
nearly due east and west magnetic towards the hmekilns
which are on the opposite side of the bay, near the Stack
of Scarlet, and to connect with them the fact that close by
those limekilns is a large boulder of the same rock, and
that there is an outburst of apparerftly this same rock at
the northern extremity of Langness, at a point which is
just eastward of these blocks which we see on the shore.
We shall find also that the groovings and scratches on the
limestone under the boulder clay, near the Stack of Scarlet,
have all this same direction, which we may therefore rea
sonably believe to have been the direction of the current
which drifted away the blocks from the northern end of

84 THE ISLB OF MAN.

Langness^ and also the direction of the general drifting
current of that period.

Close by the gate which leads up to Langness Farm-
house we catch sight of the schist, which has been brought
up by the fault which elevated the Langness Peninsula.
It is highly ferruginous and claret-coloured, as is gene-
rally the case immediately under the old red conglomerate.
We soon lose sight of it under the dnft-gravel.

As we proceed southward we cannot help noticing the
old coast-line prior to the last elevation ; it seems more
distinctly preserved here than at any other point. The
low ground along the margin of the bay, made up chiefly
of shingle, and covered with a scanty vegetation, was at
that time between high and low water, it is now elevated
from eight to ten feet above the highest tides. On the
opposite side of the bay, near to Scarlet House and Sea-
view, we have at the same level beds of shells of a recent
date, such as Littorina rudis, lAttorina littorea, Purpura
lapillusy Patella vulffata, and Buccinum undatum.

Just at the point where the road ascends from this lower
beach to the higher terrace of the drift-gravel, we have
another trap-dyke having the same general direction as
that before noticed to the northward, but more distinctly
exhibiting ramifications amongst the beds of the old red
conglomerate*. The ground-plan of it is well-worthy of a
minute study, and the contrast of colour of the two rocks
(the ffreen or olive-coloured trap and the red conglomerate)
renders the phsBUomena distinctly visible to even an un-
geological eye. The trap seems to shoot out in one strong
body from the schist to the eastward, and may be seen as
a dyke of the breadth of forty-five feet, where it runs out
to sea on the eastern side of the Peninsula ; but as sooo as
it enters upon the old red conglomerate, which overlies the
* 3t5e Plate VIL, section 4, and Plates II. and IIL

BBANCHINO BTKE. 85

schist^ we find it separating into branches^ and twisting
about amongst the pebbles and boulders of that formation
in a most singular manner. Some of these branches taper
off to an extreme thinness; we can trace them by the
colour till they are scarcely the thickness of a wafer. Now
on the opposite side of the bay^ at Knockrushen^ we see
this dyke*^ where it cuts through the limestone in the
same solid and compact form which it has where it cuts
through the schist. There are there, to be sure, two or
three straight cracks in the limestone, which have been
filled up by the fluid trap injected from this dyke ; but the
general fact which we must observe is this, that in the
schist and tough limestone the trap-dyke is compact ; in
the old red conglomerate it is spread out and branching.
And thus we come to the conclusion that the fluid trap was
forced upwards with enormous force through the schist ;
that when on its ascent it reached the more permeable and
separable beds of the old red conglomerate, tied down as
they are by the tougher masses of limestone, it spread itself
out, and ultimately raising the limestone in a boss or
saddle, produced a crack, or series of cracks, and so forced
its way through the opening to the surface. And I believe
we must in this manner account for the great number of
undulations and bosses on the surface of the limestone,
which we meet with in this area wherever the removal of
the tertiary formations by the denuding action of the sea
enables us to examine any extensive portion of the surface.
All the rocks in contact with the trap are more or less
altered, and from the minute crevices into which it has
evidently insinuated itself, there is every reason to conclude
that it was in a molten condition when it rose to the sur-
face. At the same time it appears probable that it was
accompanied by a discharge of gases containing acids, which
* See Plate II.

86 THE ISLE OF MAN.

were forced into more minute cracks and between the bed-
ding of the limestone, and hence the altered and crystal-
line condition of these limestones, evcfti at a considerable
distance from the trap-dykes^ or at any rate where the trap
does not appear at the surface.

In passing further down the coast to the south-westward,
we may trace one of the branches of this great dyke wind-
ing itself about in a very remarkable manner, till at length
it intersects a large bed of greenstone at a point where the
schist comes out more distinctly from under the drift, and
presents a cliff to the westward. Unfortunately a mass of
debris prevents our examination of the circumstances of
this intersection, and the drift-gravel also hinders our
tracing this branch dyke any further to the south when it
has crossed the greenstone*.

Parallel with this greenstone bed we meet with three
others within a hundred yards in passing along the cliff;
if we must consider them as dykes, we must observe that
they do not penetrate the old red sandstone; but as they
lie in the plane of the schists, or nearly so, and have the
same strike, viz. N. 85° W., the probability is that the
greenstone was either poured out upon the bed of the sea
at intervals during the deposition of these schists, or accu-
mulated there in the form of volcanic ash, as we shall see
was the case afterwards in the carboniferous period, when
we examine the trap tuff at Scarlet Head and in Poolvash
Bay.

The lovers of pic-nics and rustic parties have found a
spot every way suited to their innocent festivities, at the
caves and natural arches which lie a little further south
along shore. The fault, on the south-eastern side of which
the peninsula of Langness has been lifted, as we have
hitherto traced it, runs nearly due west magnetic ; it seems
♦ See Plate III.

ROMANTIC BOCKS, 87

however just at this point to make a sudden tum^ or rather
there is a cross fracture meeting the other at an angle of
70^, and the direction it takes hence is about 10° west of
south. The action of the sea when at a higher relative
level with the land^ dashing against the beds of the old red
conglomerate thus shattered by the cross fracture^ has
carved out a series of sea-side grottoes, romantic arches
and grotesque pillars, and pinnacles of rock. The strata
being of different degrees of hardness, and dipping at a low
angle towards the centre of Castletown Bay, have suffered
unequally from the destructive beat of the waves ; and the
erosion has been much greater upon some of the beds of
the conglomerate than on others, and hence the strange
variety of outline presented to our view. Uncouth faces,
outvieing the jpoppy-heads of mediseval architecture, seem
to be grinning down upon you from every nook and cranny.
Gigantic noses, gaping mouths fashioned out of the boul-
ders, and white quartz pebbles, which protrude from the
red mass of the conglomerate, topped with rude wigs of
hoary hchen moss and saxifrage, startle you on every side.
There is one isolated mass which has oft reminded me of
the dons of our ancient English universities on commemo-
ratioTi days in cap, wig and scarlet robes ; in fact, there is
hardly an animal or figure which does not meet with its
caricature amongst these romantic rocks. And the peep
out through the archways, the cracks and the chasms in
the rock upon the bay, and the country which backs it, is
particularly pleasing.

I remember well the autumnal eve when in a sea-side
ramble I first came upon the unexpected beauties of this
spot. It was quite a discovery, for not a rumour of it had
reached my ear, though I had been in the neighbourhood
several weeks. Not a breath crimpled the azure sheet of
water spread before me. A few fleecy clouds were cresting

88 THE ISLE OF MAN.

South Barrule and Irey-na«Lhaa^ which cast their long
shadows athwart the landscape^ and from the many white-
washed cottages which stud the mountain's side^ were
rising steadily on high wreaths of smoke^ doubtless redo-
lent of turf and herrings. A gleam of sunlight shot
through that singular aperture at the southern extremity
of the Calf Islet called the Eye^ and came streaming along
in a glorious ruddy pencil over the calm surface of the
deep. Here and there a sail was flapping to and fro in
lazy mood^ whilst the hull attached to it was drifting along
on the tide and'currents which sweep by the coast. Directly
across the bay^ the dark basaltic pile of Scarlet Stack was
casting a still darker patch of shadow upon the waters.
At the point where I was sittings just under the archway,
Castletown itself was hid by a mass of rock directly in
front ; but the voice of the bells of the chapel of St. Mary
summoning to the Wednesday evening service^ and the
steady beat of oars in the rowlocks of some boat which
was making its way into the harbour^ came floating to my
ear upon the dewy wing of eve. The CoUege formed a
distinct object through an opening to the north, with the
picturesque ruin on Hango Hill in advance of it*. On
ascending the cliff I was suddenly struck with what I took
far a star of extraordinary brightness, just visible on the
outline of the Calf; I watched it a few seconds, it grew
fainter and fainter, and at length disappeared ; presently
it shot forth again with increasing splendour : it was the
lower of the revolving Calf lights.

There is in this southern area of the Isle of Man no ex-
ample of the unconformity of the old red conglomerate
with the subjacent schist more distinct than that presented
to the eye of the geologist at these caves, and there is none

* See view of the Caves on Langness.

NATURAL A&CHBS. 89

affording a more useful lesson for the tyro in such studies.
The abutments of the arch last-mentioned consist of claret-
coloured schist somewhat contorted, but having a general
dip 55° W. magnetic at an angle of 50°. The different
layers of the schist are rendered distinct by their varying
tints. The crown of the arch consists of the old red con-
glomerate, the coarseness of which and the size of some of
the boulders cannot but cause surprise. It looks extremely
like a consolidated ancient boulder clay formation, only
there is more approach to disdnct bedding, more regularity
of stratification, as in the drift-gravel deposits. Was it
aceumulated under similar conditions of climate and in a
sea of like character? Were there periods of excessive
disturbance of the ocean bed, storm periods, so to speak ?
Had the extraordinarily bony character of the fishes of
the old red sandstone (the Osteolepis or bony-scale, for
instance) anything to do with such a condition of the ele-
ment in which they lived ? Was it so that those strange
trilobitic-looking fishes of that sera (the Coccosteus, Pte-
richthys and Cephalaspis) had to endure the buffeting of
icy waves and to struggle amidst the wreck of ice-floes and
the crush of bergs ? These are questions which we may
perhaps venture to ask, but which we dare not hope to
have solved till we know something more than at present we
know of the history of the boulder clay formation itself.

We might spend much time upon the southern extremity
of Langness, if time were at our disposal, most usefully and
agreeably. It is intersected by trap-dykes, and forming
angles with these are two parallel greenstone dykes*, which
seem to have originated the ridge running out in a westerly
direction and terminated by the Scraans. The schists, as
before observed, are remarkably contorted between these

I' See Plate II. and Plate I., section across the island.

90 THK ISLE OF HAN.

dykes*. From this locality we may distinctly mark how
the old red conglomerate and limestone^ which were once
continuous over the whole peninsula of Langness^ have
been denuded and remain only in depressions on the west-
ern side where protected by the greenstones and schists.
We have thus some evidence of the direction of the denu*
ding currents.

Even the capping of drift- gravel has its interest^ and
the scenery around is of the finest description ; it affords
us the most magnificent land-view we can get of the entire
mountain range of the island^ and ought not to be missed
by any one who wishes to get a just idea of the structure
of this side of it. For this purpose we may ascend the
building erected on one of the highest points^ which I
cannot learn has ever been used for any other purpose than
a land-mark, but which possesses all the characteristics of
the round towers of Ireland.

There are some exquisitely picturesque chasms all the
way up the eastern side of Langness, and a reference to
the geological map will show that the schist is extremely
well-developed, and a good insight afforded into the man-
ner of intrusion of the igneous rocks and the nature of the
intersection of those of different age, as for instance, the
mass of greenstone to the north of the land-mark running
in a direction S. 70° W. magnetic, with the more southerly
of two large trap-dykes which intersect the peninsula.

At the northern extremity, the great development of por-
phyritic greenstone may be well studied ; and also the ap-
pearance of gravel terraces, though the plough has too
much disturbed them for any accurate observations on
their different levels, if there have ever really existed more

"^ In a specimen now in the museum of the Geolo^cal Society of
London, there are three contortions as acute as a ridge-tile within
the length of a single foot.

^^^^^ "-' I

ST. MICHAEL^S ISLE* 91

than the two marked ones of the before often alladed to
drift-gravel platform and the terrace of the last raised sea
beach.

The little isle of St. Michael* (commonly called Fort
Island)^ on which stands the fort and ruined church, is
connected with Langness at its northern point by a narrow
causeway. The causeway is built across two not very wide
trap-dykes, which are nearly parallel with a general direc*
tion magnetic N. 18° W. They appear again at low water,
crossing the ridge on which stands the Derbyhaven break-
water. The greenstone also appears in some force at the
northern extremity of this causeway, and is protruded in
bosses amongst the schist. It is observed at low water in
several places along the eastern shore of Derbyhaven f-

This diminutive islet seems to have had considerable
importance attached to it in ancient days. Perhaps our
posterity may discover that in this respect our ancestors
were wiser than we are. Camden will have it J ttat this
was the ancient Sodor, and that in it Pope Gregory IV.
founded a bishopric which he named Sodorensis, and which
had jurisdiction in times past over all the western islands.
Whence he got his story is uncertain, but it is certainly
incorrect.

There can be no doubt of the great antiquity of the little
chapel or oratory at the west end of it. Two centuries ago,
as figured in Chaloner^s ^ Description,' it was a ruin. It re-

* In the old map of the island, Plate IV., it is called St. Migbil's
Island.

t See Plates II. and III.

I " Their chief town they count Russin, situate on the south side,
which of a castle wherein lieth a garrison, is commonly called Castle-
town, where within a little island Pope Gregory IV. instituted an
Episcopal See, the hishop whereof, named Sodorensis (of this very
island as it is thought), had jurisdiction in times past over all the
islands." — Camden's Britannia, foUo, page 204, Scotland.

92 THE I8LS OF MAN.

minds us strongly in its arcUtecture and general details of
the interesting church of Peranzabuloe in Cornwall^ de-
scribed by Mr. Collins in ' The Lost Church Found/ It
differs however in the number of windows. The church of
Peranzabuloe was lighted by but one, this has/our^ an east
and a west window^ and a north and south placed very near
the east end« The west^ north and south windows are
square-headed^ the two latter being only twelve inches wide
outside^ but with a wide splay to two feet ten inches inside.
The east window is one long single lights with a semicir-
cular head and only ten inches in breadth outside^ but
largely splayed.

This little chapel is of but one compartment^ whose
l^gth is thirty-one feet and breadth fourteen. The thick-
ness of the walls is three feet. At the west end is a simple
bell-turret. The chapel was entered by one door on the
south side nine feet from the west end^ the height of which
is six feet^ and the width two feet four inches. This door,
like the east window^ has a semicircular headings formed of
small pieces of the schist of this neighbourhood set edge-
ways round the arch^ whilst the door-jambs are of rough
blocks of limestone. There is no appearance of a tool on
any part of it, if we except the coping-stones on the west
gable.

We may mark the foundation of a stone altar under the
east window, and at the same end in the north comer, three
stone steps which may have served as an ambo or pulpit.
The height of the side walls of the building is only ten feet.
ITie length of its graveyard is 192 feet and the breadth
ninety-eight, and as yet it is untouched by the plough :
18 more than we can say of many other similar chapels
Cha T* ^P a^d down the isle. Witness St. Catherine's

apel in Christ's Rushen parish, which is inserted in the

old maps of the island.

wmm

OBATORT OF ST. MICHAEL.

It has been stated by some writers that the chapel was
dedicated in honour of St. Mary ; it seems more probable^
from the name of the little islet on which it stands^ that
St. Michael was the patron. The orientation of the build-
ing is E. by N.^ and singularly enough falls directly in a line
with the little chapel in Castle Bushen before mentioned,
and^ if I mistake not^ with the ruined chapel at Port-St.-
Mary. If we dare place it along with the church of
Peranzabuloe in Cornwall in the same century as the oldest
recorded stone church in Great Britain^ viz. that of Can-
dida Casa or Whithern, i. e, Whitchurch in Gralloway^ which
is said to have been erected about 448 by St. Ninian, it
may be well to bear in mind the dose connection q£
Whithern with the See of Man in ancient times. The
priory of Whithern was endowed with lands in this isle^ for
which the Prior was wont to do fealty to the lord*.

How much of Manx church history might be found to
hang upon the history of this little oratory I How much
of private history too may be attached to it ! How many
a mariner^ owing his safety to the hght streaming from
yonder eastern window at the hour of evening prayer, or
to the sound of the vesper bell swingihg in that humble
tiuret on a dark and stormy night, may have come to offer
up his thanksgivings within the lowly roof with a fervour
no less, but with a faith more pure, than those whose
dripping garments and votive offerings were wont in still

* At the Tynwald Court, heldA.D. 1422, caUed by Sir John Stanley
as Lord of the Isle, we find the Prior of Whithern in Galloway, the
Abbot of Bangor, the Abbot of Sabol, and the Prior of St. Bede in
Copeland, were called in but came not, therefore they were deemed
by the Deemsters that they should come in their proper persons
within forty days, and if tiiey came not then all their temporal!*-
ties to be seized into the Lord's hands. — ^Sacheverell's Account,
p. 84.

94 THE ISLE OF HAN.

more ancient days to be suspended in the splendid marble
temples of the Pagan sea-god* 1

And what a testimony do these roofless waUs, overspread |

with fem^ and this holy area grown over with moss and
nettles^ bear to the decay of primitive piety, which reared
even in wild districts so many houses of prayerf, whence
also the waters of life gushed forth and refreshed from
time to time the thirsty land ! When may we hope for
the restoration of spots once hallowed by such uses ? Such
restorations would be both the evidences of new life in the
church and the cherishers of it.

At the northern extremity of this little islet of St. Mi-
chael is a circular embattled fort, which, according to
Chaloner}, was raised by James, the illustrious seventh |

Earl of Derby, as a protection to the harbour of Ronalds- I

way. Over the doorway is an oblong stone with an earFs j

coronet in relief, and the date 1650, as I read it ; but the
third and fourth figures are very indistinct, and have had
di£ferent values given to them by different parties §. If
the date be 1603, as stated by Train, and the building is

* " Me tabula sacer

Votiva paries indicat uvida
Suspendisse potenti
Vestinienta maris Deo."

Horace, Od. I. 5.
t In the old Manx ballad of the early part of the sixteenth cen-
tury, there is a traditional statement that the oratories or quarterland
chapels (in Manx treen caballyn) were built by St. German, but
that afterwards St. Maughold, by throwing several quarterlands into
one division, formed the seventeen regular parishes which we now
have.

X Chaloner's Description of the Tsle of Man, p. 31.
§ Feltham reads the date 1667, which would bring the erection
of the building to a period after the great rebellion. But Chaloner,
.writing in 1653, speaks of it as built by the late £arl of Derby. Fel-
tham's reading is thus plainly incorrect.

OLD FOBT. 95

to be attributed to the prudence of Queen Elizabeth when
holding the island^ as before noticed^ we still have the
difficulty of the coronet and the statement of a contempo-
rary, Chaloner.

The thickness of the walls is eight feet, but they are not
solid throughout. Thirty years ago it was furnished with
four iron cannons. A turret has been raised upon the
wall on the eastern side as a Ughthouse, in which, during
the herring season, a light is kept burning from sunset to
sunrise.

96 THE ISLE OF MAN.

CHAPTER VIII.

The port of Derbyhaven — Its great natural adyantages. — Singularly
embraces in its circuit everjr rock and soil in the island. — ^The
battle-field of Ronaldsway.— Great events of the thirteenth cen-
tury. — ^The Scottish conquest. — Richard Mandeville, the Irish
freebooter. — The lower limestone fossils of Ronaldsway . — Skillicore
bosses. — Great disturbance at Coshnahawin. — ^Valley of Santon-
bum. — M'Culloch in error.

The port of Derbyhaven, which appears to have been
anciently called Bognalwath, Bonaldswath^ Bamsway and
Rannesway^ and so Ronaldsway^ was formerly of consider-
able importance, and with the northern harbours of Ramso,
now Ramsey, shared a large portion of the traffic of the
eastern side of the island.

But times have indeed changed since the commence-
ment of the eighteenth century, and there has been from
that day forward a gradual increase of the tonnage enter-
ing the harbour of Douglas, and a proportionate decrease
in that entering the other ports of the island. The con-
traband trade, then the erection of the pier at Douglas,
and the restriction of import of all licensed goods to that
harbour*, have latterly hastened the consummation. The
circumstance also of the great owners of property in the
immediate neighbourhood of Derbyhaven having a larger
interest at Douglas operates disadvantageously to the
former place.

The Castletown people are content with their own har-
remo^d* '®**^^°^ ^** ^*^"^ ^he last two years been partially

DEBBTHAYEN. 97

boiw for general purposes, and seem perfectly satisfied to
be at the expense and Hsk of land-carriage from Douglas
for articles of less urgent and more uncertain demand, and
even some of the larger shops are but branches from head
houses of business there.

There are certainly very great capabilities in this har-
bour of Derbyhaven, and it seems a great pity that they
are not called into play. A breakwater was erected a few
years ago on a ridge of limestone running out southwards
from Ronaldsway-house ; but though st great protection to
small vessels lying in the inner harbour during a storm
from the east, yet it can assist little towards the traffic of
the place, as there is no pier for landing goods.

A strong jetty thrown out for 100 or 160 yards, in a
north-easterly direction into the bay from a point near the
fort, would afford perfect security at all times to vessels of
considerable burden ; whilst a landing-pier, as a continua*
tion of the high road at'Derbyhaven into the inner har-
bour, would afford a great convenience to the neighbour-
hood, and supersede the frequent necessity for going round
to the Castletown-pier for the purpose of unlading vessels*
It would not require any very great outlay to effect this.
The very best materials, the limestone both for building
and burning, are on the spot, and, when finished, the
harbour would be not only the best in a commercial point
of view in the island, but probably the best as a harbour
of refuge in the north-eastern portion of the Irish sea.
At the same time it would be highly desirable to cut
through the narrow isthmus of about 150 yards, sepa-
rating Castletown-bay from Derbyhaven, and which con-
sists only of sand, gravel, and boulder clay : by this means
Derbyhaven would be rendered an immediately available
port for Castletown, and whichever way the wind lay,
vessels might find ingress or egress into either harbour.

98 THE ISLE OF MAK.

Should this ever be effected, the result upon the exports
of this part of the island must be highly advantageous.

The great agricultural produce of the Isle of Man is
from the northern area, in the neighbourhood of Bamsey,
and the southern round about Castletown ; the neighbour-
hood of Peel furnishes also a considerable portion. The
great mining district on South Barrule, as well as the
great granitic boss there, is nearer to Derbyhaven than to
Douglas the present chief port of shipment of the lead
and the granite. Then we have the umber works at
Ballasalla, and the lime from the several kilns in that
neighbourhood, as well as in Derbyhaven itself. We have
again the black marble of Poolvash, which is wrought in
Castletown, of which the steps of St. Paulas Cathedral are
made, and for which there has lately been a renewed demand
for purposes of ecclesiastical architecture, both on the island
and in England. And, though last, not least, there is the
fine mass of porphyry which has hitherto been untouched at
the northern end of Langness, a rock harder and more
durable than the granite; and if, on account of the diffi-
culty of working, not generaUy available for building, yet
an excellent material for roads, and one to which attention
ought to be directed as. a subject for export and for use on
the island, in the neighbourhood of Douglas and the sandy
districts of the north.

A simple reference to the geological map of the southern
limestone basin of the Isle of Man* will show that, with the
exception of granite and Poolvash marble, every rock and
soil in the island is contained within the limits of this fine
bay. There is the clay schist in several varieties, forming
St. MichaePs Islet and the eastern boundary of the bay.
This is intersected with trap dykes and masses of porphyry,
which protrude through them at several points along
♦ See Plate III.

BONALDSWAT. 99

shore^ as well as at the northern point of Langness. It is
singular to observe how the schist mantles round these
bosses of porphyry, and how much they have been altered
where in contact. In the southern comer of the bay we
have the old red conglomerate resting unconformably on
the schist, which here dips S. 80^ E. at an angle of 20^ ;
whilst the dip of the old red is N.W. magnetic* Pre-
sently the limestone sets on ; but proceeding westward we
again for a few yards fall in with the old red conglomerate^
which is brought up by one of those singular bosses which
we shall have such frequent occasion to notice in this
locaUty ; the limestone from the crown of the boss having
been denuded shows the nucleus of old red. We have
then forming the bed of the bay, on its eastern side, the
carboniferous Umestone, on which reposes the boulder day
in the northern angle, and which also forms the holding
ground at the entrance to the bay off St. Michael's Isle,
and then all round the bay above high water we have the
drift- gravel and the sand of the more recent-raised beach.

The northern comer of the bay adjoining Ronaldsway
forms an interesting study for the geologist. The anti-
clinal ridge upon which the breakwater is built is inter-
sected at right angles by the two dykes which were noticed
under the causeway joining St. MichaePs Isle with Lang-
ness. The limestone is greatly altered and contorted, and
as we proceed north-eastward the bosses on the surface
become more important. We are in fact tracing along
a line of disturbance, which, commencing near the caves on
Langness, increases in intensity up to the Brough, and
Coshnahawin at the mouth of the Santon river.

Very near the limekilns, which are at the northern ex-
tremity of Derbyhaven, the line of low water is the old red
conglomerate coming out from under the Umestone ; but
between the two series, or rather incorporated with the old

100 THE ISLE OF MAN.

red^ appears a tabular mass of trappean oonglomerate or
of quartz pebbles^ apparently mixed up in a trappean
matrix. The limestone overlying this bed is cracked and
altered in an extraordinary degree, and I cannot but regard
it as confirmatory of my view as to the origin of the bosses,
thus to find traces of igneous action so closely connected
with them.

There is one remarkable fact which should not be over-
looked, which is, that the boulder day itself seems in
some measure to have partaken of the metamorphosed
character of the limestone. Patches of it here and there
are hardened and cemented, and present a baked appear-
ance, and have resisted the action of the sea. It is difficult
to determine whether this has resulted from long contact
with the ochreous masses of altered limestone, or from the
escape of heated gases at some period of the boulder clay
through cracks formed by the previous disturbances, or
whether the alteration was coincident with those disturb-
ances which we must thence class as belonging to the
boulder period. The locality where this is particularly to
be noted is one hundred yards north of the limekiln, and
very near the stream from Ballahick, where, passing by
the mill, it enters the sea in a small recess, which I have
always known by the name of Bonaldsway Creek. There
is a line of disturbance running from under the drift
gravel which forms the battle-field of Bonaldsway, in
a direction N. 80^ E. magnetic, crossing the general strike
of the beds for a distance of sixty yards, and then gradu-
ally disappearing. Along this axis unequivocal tokens of
igneous action are afibrded, and parallel to it it is worth
while to observe all the way to Goshnahawin a series of
cracks and disturbances with the same evidences of meta-
morphism about them.

The battle-field of Bonaldsway, though little noted in

AFFAIRS OF MAN. 101

British history^ was once the scene of a memorable struggle
for the liberties and independence of the Manx nation^
and determined its fate. It may be well to take a review of
the history of the isle for a few years preceding that event.

When the usurper Reginald (the same who surrendered
the isle to Pope Honorius — surrendered in fact that which
did not belong to him^) was slain at the great battle of
the Tynwald Hill, on St. Valentine's day, 1229*, the crown
settled quietly on the head of the rightful king, Olave the
Black, called in the Ghronicon, Olave Oodredson, being
the son of Oodred Kleining. He died in 1237, leaving
three sons, Harold, Reginald, and Magnus.

The former reigned ten years, and perished by shipwreck
on the coast of Rudland, with his young bride, Cecilia,
daughter of Haco, sovereign of Norway, and a numerous
train of nobility, and Lawrence, then Bishop elect of Man.

On the 6th of May in the following year Reginald as-
sumed the reins of government, but was murdered in a
meadow near the west end of Trinity Church in Rushen,
by the knight Ivar, brother of the usurper Reginald.

Magnus, the last surviving son of Olave, was at this
time resident with his father-in-law, Ewen Konongr or
John Dugalson, in one of the Hebrides, and the govern-
ment was seized (a.d. 1250) by Harold, son of Godred
Don, and grandson of Reginald.

Haco, hearing of this usurpation, summoned Harold to
Norway, and there cast him into prison. He then de-
puted Ewen Konongr to hold the sovereignty of Man-
during the minority of Magnus Olaveson. John, arriving
in Mau, and disembarking at Ronaldsway (a.d. 1250),
proclaimed himself king of the Isles. The Manx, provoked
at this presumption, rose in a body, attacked his army,
* See Cbronicon Manniie, p. 30.

102 THE I8LB OF MAK.

which was encamped on St. Michaers Isle^ and totaDy de-
feated them.

Magnns himself was gladly received in 1252^ and ac-
Imowledged king by the Manx nation at large, and re-
eeived afi;erwards a confirmation of his right and title by
the sovereign of Norway, 1254, and was knighted by
Henry III. of England in 1256*.

The battle of Largs, Oct. 3, 1263, in which Alexander
III. of Scotland so completely broke up the expedition of
Haco^ placed the isle at the mercy of the Scottish monarch;
and Magnus, despairing of help from Norway, met Alex*
ander in a conference at Dumfries, did homage to him,
and obtained a charter to hold the island from the crown
of Scotland.

In 1265, on the 24th of November, died in Castle
Rushen, Magnus, the ninth and last of the race of Gbdred
Crovan, which for nearly 200 years had held the sceptre
of the isle as viceroys to the monarch of Norway. He
was buried in the church of St. Mary of Rushen, which had
been finished and dedicated in the fifth year of his reign,
by Richard '^ Sodorensis Episcopus,^^ and left no issue.

The following year, Magnus, king of Norway, successor
to Haco, ceded to the Scottish king his right and title to
the Isle of Man and the Hebrides, in consideration of 4000
marks sterling, in four yearly payments of 1000 marks
each, and an annual quit-rent of 100 marks for ever.

In the mean time (to use the words of Sacheverell), the
widow of Magnus, a woman haughty and intriguing, and
secretly in love with the knight Ivar (who by the murder
of her brother-in-law Reginald, had cleared the way to the
crown), thought him the fittest person to supply thevacancy.

There was no lawful successor except the daughter of
* See Chronicon Mmmise, p. 40.

SCOTCH CONQUEST. 103

Reginald^ and she a child; the danger from Scotland seemed
pressings but what will not love and the temptation of a
crown persuade men to ? Ivar, therefore, in the vigour of
his age, gay, generous and popular, the boldest, the bravest^
the most licentious, and yet the best of all the natives,
one who had virtues enough to save, and vices enough to
undo a nation, readily embraced the offer, and Mary* was
secretly conveyed into England with all public deeds and
charters by those who had the care of her, equally fearing
the danger from abroad and at home. Ivar vigorously
prepared for the defence of his newly-acquired govern-
ment, and resolved at least to deserve, if not enjoy, the
crown. But the Isle of Man could do little singly with
the more potent kingdom of Scotland; for Alexander,
having now reduced all the out-isles, sent a numerous
army under Alexander of Paisley and John Comyne, who
landed at Bonaldsway in the year 1270t. Ivar, though
much inferior in numbers (being deprived of all foreign
assistance), received them with a resolution natural to the
Manx nation, stoutly fought and as bravely fell with the
expiring hberties of his country, and with him 537 of
the flower of the people. The monks of Rushen have
preserved this number in the following doggerel epic
verses —

* This Mary in the year 1292 claimed the kingdom of the Isles,
and did homage to Edward the First of England in Perth or St.
John's town. Though the Norwegian royalty descended in the
male hne, yet we find nearly 400 years after that, on the plea of
the validity of Mary's claim to the sovereignty of Man, sentence
was pronounced in favour of the heirs general of Ferdinand Earl of
Derby, against his brother. Earl William, though afterwards it was
settled by the British Parliament in favour of the male line. — See
Sacheverell's Account, p. 60, and Chaloner's History, p. 15; also
p. 59, supra.

t According to the Chronioon Mannise, 1275.

104 THE ISLE OF MAN.

L dedes X ter et pente duo oecidere
Maonica gens de te danma futura caye *.

This distich might almost be deemed prophetic^ for we
find not many years after that the Manx suffered most
severely from foreign enemies landing at this same spot. In
May 1316^ on Ascension day^ Richard de Mandeville^ and his
brothers, John and Thomas, with a company of Irish free-
booters, landed at Bonaldsway, and demanded of the Manx
supplies of provisions, cattle and money. Their request
being rejected, they formed themselves into two divisions,
which marching up the country, again united at the foot
of South Barrule ; then uttering the Irish war-whoop, they
fell upon the Manx who had there drawn up their forces to
receive them. At the first onset the Manx fled in a body.
The victorious Irish, roaming through the country, plun-
dered it of every thing on which they could lay their hands.
The sanctity of the venerable Abbey of Bushen availed
nothing against this lawless company ; they stripped it of
all its Aimiture, flocks and cattle. Spending a month in
this manner, and at their leisure digging up much silver
which had been buried in various places, they stowed their
vessels with the best efiects of the coimtry and returned
safe home.

The estate of Ronaldsway belonged to WilUam Dhone,
and at his execution as a traitor at Hango Hiil was con-
fiscated. It was afterwards restored to the family by an
order of King Charles II. in council.

The geologist will find the creek of Bonaldsway a rich
d^pdt of fossils of the lower Umestone strata. With a
good heavy hammer, having one face wedge-shaped, he
may go in amidst the alternating beds of shale and lime-
stone at low water, and, raising the layers, extract some of

* Ten Ls thrice X with five and two did fall ;
Ye Manx, take care, or suffer more ye shall*

■^•^

3KILLICOBE BOSS. 105

the rarer organisms a£? libitum. He will find here Hete-
ropora a beautiful branching coral^ Turbinolia fungites,
Cyathophyllum megastoinay Cyathophyllum crassum, Orthis
Sharpei, Productus giganteus and Productus hemispkaricus,
several large encrinites and remarkable facoids.

It will be well for him to take hence a good collection^
in order to contrast them with the newer limestone series^
when he comes to study it at Foolvash in the centre of
this gi*eat limestone basin.

But the points of most interest for one occupied in the
study more especially of the physical structure of this
district^ will be the examination of the cracks^ disturb-
ances, contortions, bosses and trap dykes, which lie be-
tween this creek and the mouth of the Santon river*. Here
are very plain indications of two epochs of disturbance,
the axes of intenser action ' running in distinctly different
directions. We have one axis of disturbance running
S. 40° W., with cracks and faults at ^igl^t angles to that
direction, and this seems particularly to be connected with
the bosses and trap-dykes; the other running S. 80° Jl.,
with cracks and faults at right angles, and this seems
connected in some way with the protrusion of greenstone
masses. The great difficulty is in determining which was
the anterior disturbance.

The great boss at Skillicoref is extremely interesting,
from the manner in which it is intersected by a trap-dyke
or assemblage of dykes. We have here a dyke, or rather
a number of small cracks, filled with trap, and then uniting
to form one dyke, which runs S. 85° E. magnetic on the
line of the beds to the centre of the boss; it there sepa-
rates again into two, one of which, after being a little
contorted, is continued in a direction S. 80° E., the other
running S. 50° E., and throwing out small branches which

* See Plate VI. t Ibid.

F 5

106 THE ISLE OF MAN.

soon terminate. This latter presents evidence of great
force exercised in the ascent of the fluid trap, the edges of
the limestone beds being very sharply turned up along
the dyke to the extent of half a foot on each side.

The limestone is singularly broken up into rhomboidal
blocks by cracks which cross each other in directions
8. 40° W. and S. 80° E. But along the great line of
disturbance, where the rocks are suddenly brought up and
turned over on an axis, the metamorphism is most com-
plete ; and it is extremely difficult to determine to what
class of rocks, limestone or old red conglomerate, the mass
originally belonged. The beautiful variegated appearance
of the rock has led to some attempts to work it as a marble
quarry, which have been defeated by the large admixture
of quartz, and the fractured character of the rock.

The mouth of the Santon bum is one of the most pic-
turesque spots with which I am acquainted in the Isle of
Man. The valley down which the river runs into the sea
is one of elevation, a great crack in the earth^s crust in
consequence of extreme tension across a saddle when the
country was being elevated. Even an ordinary observer
must mark how the salient points at one side of this lovely
winding valley correspond to recesses on the opposite side
of it ; so that if the earth were to sink down again, we
see at once that they would lock into each other just (to
compare small things with great) as the teeth in a rat-trap
when the edges approximate. The earth here in opening
her mouth has exhibited a set of teeth, compared with which
those possessed by the most monstrous Saurian that ever
paddled in the secondary seas sink into utter insigni«>
ficance.

We have before alluded to the beauty of this valley in
its upper portion above Ballasalla or Fairy-bridge. The
angler, as he comes rambling downwards from that bridge

COSHNAHAWIX. 10?

towards the sea^ will greatly be reminded of the favourite
scene of his friend Isaac Walton's special enjoyment — ^the
Derbyshire Dovedale — save that the gorge is somewhat
narrower and in places hardly permits the sweep of the rod
which throws the deceitful fly upon the purling water of
the bum. But then the splendid opening out of the gorge
into the sea^ and the chances of hooking the salmon which
sport about its mouth, — these well compensate for the other
deficiencies^ as compared with the picturesque features of
the Derbyshire trout-stream.

Those water-worn caves which pierce yonder frowning
crag^ shattered and contorted as it has been by those
masses of greenstone thrust up on either side, — ^how
tempting the shade and retirement which they afford ! and
the golden gorse in spring time, and the purple heather in
autumn, with all manner of wild flowers, grace the opposite
slope, and drop their perfume on the gentle sea-breeze
which comes swelling up the glen.

There is a romantic archway on the eastern side of the
stream near its mouth*, where the claret-coloured schist
is contorted upon an axis of disturbance. A little higher
up, on opposite crags, as the poet sings —

** immortal without mother.
Which stand as if outfacing one another, — '*

are the remains of two forts, rude earthwork embankments,
the names and reputation of which, if ever they had any,
have long ago passed away, and are amongst the things
which are not. Woe to the occupants of either, had their
hold been forced ! something worse than Hobson's choice
nwaited them : it was no question between fighting aud
running away ; a full tide might give a bare chance j other-

* See the view *' Coshnahawin at the month of the Santonbum,"

108 THE ISLE Of HAN.

wise he who leapt that precipice would never have lived to
fight another day.

The mass of limestone forming Coshnahawin Head was
sometime ago a puzzle to McCulloch^ as appears in his
account of the Western Isles of Scotland ; at least he has
committed to paper two singular errors in reference to it
which have since been taken on trusty and copied by Dr.
Mantell in his most interesting work^ ' Wonders of Geo-
logy.' He has stated^ that the mountain limestone of this
area rests directly upon the slate^ and he has adduced the
limestone of Coshnahawin* as an instance of the crystal-
line action of slaty cleavage passing upwards from slate
into superincumbent Umestone.

It may at first sight appear singular to any one inspect-
ing the sectionst which I have given, in which the old red
conglomerate is seen interposed between the limestone and
the .schist, how such a mistake could have been committed,
and yet the error is easily explained.

In the first place, at the time Dr. McCulloch wrote, the
old red sandstone was grouped as a member of the carbo-
niferous series; it remained for his two great northern
fellow-countrymen, the authors respectively of ' The Silu-
rian System' and the 'Old Red Sandstone,' to separate
it into a system of its own and to work out in detail
its separate members. Dr. McCulloch too had seen the
old red as a formation of thousands of feet in thickness as
it is developed in Scotland, spreading out over thousands
upon thousands of acres : here, in this southern area, it can
never be seen more than fifty feet thick, and its tilted

* I belieye this ought to be spelt Cas-ny-hawin^ the foot of the
waters^

t See Plate VIL, sections 1, 2 and 3; and Plate VI., sections 2
and 3,

/^ • ■ ■ c'- - >. ^ \ r». > V-. ^-i '\... 'A. Vi ■'''•• V •' • ^

THE BROUOH. 109

basset-edge may be walked across anywhere in a oonple of
hundred yards.

Again^ the subject of metamorphism of rocks had not at
that time received the attention which has of late been
bestowed upon it. The presumed slaty cleavage of the
limestone is plainly due to the metamorphic action of the
heated masses with which it has been connected at the
period of disturbance.

Again^ at this particular spot the schist is singularly
brought up and placed in contact with the limestone by
two faults^ one running S. 40° W., which is distinctly seen
on the sea-shore at the mouth of the bum near the caves,
in consequence of the different colour of the schist on each
side of the fault ; the other caused by the upheaval of the
country on an aids running S. SQP E., of which the caves,
and the natural arch on the opposite side of the stream are
the immediate consequences. There are other disturbances
at right angles to these directions which give a somewhat
eomplicated character to the geology of this spot, but the
general and total effect of all is plain ; the limestone at the
Head is on two sides placed in contact with the schist, de-
nudation of the upheaved portion of the country has re-
moved the limestone and old red conglomerate to the
northward, and it is only by diligent searching at low-
water that the conglomerate is discovered with a thin bas-
set-edge coming up from under the Hmestone and there-
fore plainly separating it from the schist. If however we
mount the hill (the Brough) to the westward we shall dis-
cover the conglomerate in great force forming a fine escarp-
ment to the seaward with a very clear sequence into the
carboniferous series, and with it dipping down towards the
centre of this southern basin at Foolvash.

The total lift of the bed of old red conglomerate by the
two before-named faults combined is about 110 feet, the

110 THE ISLE OF MAN.

bed seen at the mouth of the river being about ten feet
below high-water, and where it appears again on the
Brough being 100 feet above it. Some five years ago
I had the gratification of going over the ground, and
pointing out the details of this my almost first discovery
in the geology of this neighbourhood, with Count Keyset*
ling, the illustrious States Geologist of Russia and com-
panion in travel with our own Sir Roderick Murchison, and
coadjutor with him and Mons. de Yemeuil in the researches
which have resulted in that most noble geological work,
' Russia and the Ural Mountains.' His approval of this
first essay was in itself a sufficient encouragement to pro*
ceed with the details of the whole area, to which it afibrds
the key.

Before leaving this neighbourhood, the lover of the pic-
turesque may make an attempt when the tide is out to
cross the Santon bum at its mouth ; and following the
road which winds up the opposite bank, and tracing the
edge of the low cliff for about a quarter of a mile north-
eastward, he will come upon another little creek called
Saltric, possessing a peculiar wildness about it, and at the
same time, within a very small compass, a singular admix-
ture of softened and harsh features in the same landscape.
The recess in the coast is of a horse-shoe form, of which
the horns are occupied by masses of schist and greenstone,
a continuation of the same axis of disturbance which we
have just noted at the mouth of the Santon bum and pre-
viously at Seafield, which is a mile to the north-eastward
of this point.

In consequence of this axis of disturbance a synclinal
depression has been formed a few hundred yards inland,
but parallel to the coast : this depression has been filled up
by the pleistocene-clay sand and gravel during the glacial
period when the sea was at a higher relative level with the

SALTEIC CUEEK. Ill

land. On the elevation of the island^ the sea has worked
its way in at a cross fracture and largely eroded the soft
pleistocene* beds^ whilst the harder schists and greenstone
have been much more slowly acted upon.

The inner portion therefore of the little bay swells out
with a softened outUne and presents deep rounded gullies
clothed with tender herbage and mosses or blooming with
ftirze^ broom and heath ; the entrance to it from the sea
presenting bluff precipices and dark water-worn caves^ a
favourite resort of the jackdaw in spring time. Here she
builds her nest and rears her young.

* In this locality may be obtained^ more abundantly than in any
other part of this southern area, fragments of the fossils of the
pleistocene period.

112 THE ISLE OF MAN.

CHAPTER IX.

View firom the Brough. — ^Varying composition of the pleistocene
marls. — Return to Castletown. — Notice of recent raised beaches
at various points along the coast. — Remarkable undulations of the
limestone beds at the Stack of Scarlet caused by the protrusion
of basaltic rocks. — Glacial striations, groovings and indentations.
— Mud glaciers not solving the phenomena. — Recent action of
littoral ice at Cape Blomidon in the Bay of Fundy affording a
clue to the true solution. — Probable gradual sinking of this area
at the beginning of the glacial period.

The view from the Brough is sufficiently pleasing to repay
the toil of the ascent^ its height being not more than 160
feet above the level of the sea. The most toilsome way is
really the most picturesque. About 400 yards above the
caves the Silverbum makes a sudden angle, and its course
from running nearly magnetic north is directed more to
the east. The face of the valley is very steep here, but
after mounting 100 feet we come to the top of the schist
and meet the old red conglomerate very finely developed
as a mass of boulders and pebbles of quartz, quartz-rock
and grauwacke, in at first a deep ochreous setting, which,
as we rise still higher, becomes at length a gray carbona-
ceous matrix. A station on the top of this old red con-
glomerate, looking into the valley at the angle, presents an
interesting scene both seaward and landward. In the
latter direction we may catch glimpses of the course of the
Silverbum for several miles up towards the moimtains, and
the structure of the valley is easily ascertained.

Proceeding onward towards the summit of the Brough
we soon cross the basset-edge of the carboniferous limestone,
and may observe its dip towards the centre of the basin.

PLEISTOCENE MARLS. 113

The composition of the Brough itself may next engage
our attention. It belongs to the boulder fonnation^ which
seems to attain to a considerable thickness npon it^ if we
may judge of it by a comparison of the height of the hill
with the depth under its summit^ at which^ according to
the dip of the beds^ we should meet with the limestone.
The extreme red colour of the soil on the hiU would indi-
cate that it is formed in great part of the denuded por-
tions of the escarpment of the old red conglomerate which
appears to the eastward above Coshnahawin Head. This
is another evidence of the extremely local character of the
lower portion at least of the boulder-clay-formation. As
we proceed westward across this limestone basin we shall
observe how it changes in composition^ and tallies in che-
mical character^ as well as in lithological appearance and
colour, with that of the subjacent rock prevaihng a very
little to the eastward of any spot on which we may fix for
its examination*.

We may descend from the Brough to Ballahick, and
thence get upon the high road between Ballasalla and
Castletown, or we may take the road to Ronaldsway, and
begin there to examine the evidences of the last raised
beach, which we may then trace very distinctly all round
the coast where there is no lofty cliflF presented to the sea-
ward. Just by the Mill at Bonaldsway we may observe
perhaps in the bank an accumulation of a bed of sea-shells
of recent species. We have before noticed the beach at

* Through the kindness of my friend, George Kemp, Esq., M.D.,
of St. Peter's College, Cambridge, I am enabled to give the per-
centage of lime contained in the clay at different places on the
Island. A reference to the geological map and sections will show
at once its value, as bearing on the present question of the origin of
the boulder formation ; and it may prove acceptable to agriculturists^
as indicating the best localities for marls containing the lai^est
quantity of lime. See Appendix, Note I.

114 THE ISLE or MAN.

Hango Hill^ and in proceeding thence towards Castletown
we may perceive it very continuously at the back of the
houses which front towards the sea all the way to the
BowUng Green.

Let us set out again from Castletown towards the Stack
of Scarlet. We have the same beach^ with plenty of shells
all the way round from Knockrushen by Sea-view and be-
yond Scarlet House. The same thing occurs at Poolvash,
StrandhaD^ Mount Gawne^ and Port St. Mary.

In passing from Castletown to the Stack of Scarlet^ the
series of trap-dykes which are seen between high and low
water^ the undulations on the surface of the limestone and
its frequently altered character, will certainly attract atten-
tion. The great Knockrushen dyke, in width twenty-one
feet (sending out three other smaller ones), I have supposed
to be the continuation of the more southerly of the two
great dykes which intersect Langness, and which we meet
with again at Foolvash divided into three branches.

It is however evident, as we approach the Stack, that
another disturbance than that of the trap-dykes has affected
this portion of the limestone basin. The direction of the
undulating ridges is changed, and the undulations become
more frequent and marked. The long swell becomes the
crested wave just ready to break upon the shore.

Close by the limekilns the contortions become very vio-
lent, and the great wonder seems to be, that the limestone
beds have not snapped under the extreme tension. There
is merely a jagged crack running down the crown of the
undulation, though its curvature is as rapid as the rim of
an ordinary sized carriage-wheel. Either the superincum-
bent pressure must have been excessive, or the beds were
in an extremely new and plastic condition at the time of
the contortion.

At these limekilns it is worth while to linger a little,

GLACIAL MARKS. 116

both for the fine view here afforded of Castletown bay and
the adjacent country^ and also to observe the groovinga
and scratchings on the surface of the limestone where the
quarriers have removed the boulder-clay.

There are three kinds of markings to be noticed ; the
deeper polished groovingSy the striations or finer scratches
upon the groovings^ and the indentations. The direction of
the first is very nearly magnetic east and west^ a point north
of east and south of west ; the second, though generally
having the same direction as the groovings, sometimes cross
them at acute angles ; the third have the appearance of
being produced by some hard, sharp-pointed object brought
suddenly in contact, grooving the surface for an inch or
two, and then removed.

If we examine the action of the breakers upon the stir-
fiBU5e of the limestone, wherever it is exposed at the present
time, we shall find the result very different to that seen on
the rocks under the boulder clay. "We have the proof
plain before us, about one hundred yards south-westward
of these limekilns, nearer the Stack of Scarlet, on a shelf
of rock which is intersected by a trap dyke. The surface
of the limestone, which is just exposed to the sweep of the
waves at the highest spring tides, or when a storm rages
from the souths is dnlled with a series of holes of every
size and depth. How are they formed? Look at that
pebble or heap of pebbles which lies at the bottom of one
of these clear briny pools. These are the tools with which
the work is done ; the natural augers which have pierced
the solid stone. The effect is thus produced. The action
of the atmosphere on a small crack or flaw in the lime-
stone (and being in such close contact with trap-rock,
and contorted so fantastically, no wonder that it is in some
places much cracked !) produces a small hole. A little

116 TAE ISLE OF MAK.

pebble driven on by the breaker lodges in it : the next
high tide sets the pebble in motion, and the instrument
begins the drilling operation. As the hole increases, other
and bigger pebbles or hard boulders find a lodgement
there, and assist in widening and deepening the hole till
it is too deep for the refluent surge to be capable of moving
the collection at the bottom, and then of course the action
ceases. Now here is plainly a very different result from that
found on the surface of the rock under the boulder clay.
Indeed, I am not aware of any instance in this neighbour-
hood where the sea now produces anything like the groo-
vings, scratchings and indentations which we are now con-
sidering.

It has been suggested that the effect has been brought
about by the sliding forwards of the entire mass of the
boulder series upon the inclined surface of the limestone
beds ; in fact, the boulder clay has been spoken of as a
kind of mud glacier, which, rolling onwards, has abraded
the subjacent rocks, and left the traces of its course in those
groovings and striations which in so many places meet the
eye. Such an explanation might possibly stand had we
to do simply with groovings, or with the striations only
parallel to them; yet even in this case the objection
would have to be met, that these do not always coincide
with the dip of the rock ; and further, that since it is now
pretty generally allowed that the motion of glaciers is due
to gravitation, and as this would be specially the case in
the so-called mud-glacier, it would require a rather nice
engineering adjustment of the inclines and application of
forces for the motion to be propagated through several
miles up one hill and down another to an extent which
greatly taxes one's credulity. But the grand difficulty
which still remains on this hypothesis is to solve the

CAPE BLOMIBON. 117

problem of the cross-scratches and the indentations. I
have never heard of such a solution^ and I certainly cannot
offer one.

And why should we go out of our way to frame hypo-
theses to account for these marks upon the rocks^ made at
the period of the boulder deposit, when we have similar
phsenomena to adduce of a recent date, where the cause
and effect are distinctly set before our eyes in the closest
possible connection ?

Mr. Lyell has suppUed us with the necessary data for
determining the problem in his recent travels in North
America*. Strolling one day along the beach, at the foot
of Cape Blomidon, in the Bay of Fundy, he was startled
by observing, upon a ledge of soft sandstone, some recent
furrows, the exact counterpart of the grooves of ancient
date attributed to glacial action. Some of these farrows
were half an inch broad, and very nearly parallel ; others
were rather divergent, and crossed each other. The direc-
tion of the parallel furrows coincided with that of the
shore at this point. His guide was asked if ever he had
seen much ice at this spot. He replied, that in the pre-
ceding winter of 1841 he had seen ice, in spite of the tide,
which ran at the rate of ten miles an hour, extending in
one uninterrupted mass from that side of the bay to the
opposite coast of Farisborough, and that the icy rocks,
heaped on each other, and frozen together, or packed at
the foot of Cape Blomidon, were often fifteen feet thick,
and were pushed along when the tide rose over the sand-
stone ledges. He also stated that blocks of a black amyg-
daloid, containing numerous geodes coated with quartz
crystals, fell from the summit of the cliff, were frozen into
the ice, and moved along with it. Need we say, that Mr,
Lyell, Uke any other man whose mind has been trained in
* Lyell's Travels in North America^ vol. ii. p. 172.

118 THE ISLE OF MAN.

the inductive principles of the Baconian philosophy, hesi-
tated not an instant as to the agent which had produced
the groovings and furrows upon the ledge of soft sandstone
in the Bay of Fundy ?

And need we hesitate to ascribe the groovings, striations
and indentations on the limestone at Scarlet and else-
where, wherever the boulder-clay is removed, to the same
agency?

We must again recur to the circumstance so often before
istated, that at the period of the boulder formation the Isle
of Man was a cluster of islands, and that powerful currents
in all probability swept through the channels between
them; that tide-ways would be formed parallel to the
coast-Une, and that the climate was, to judge by the fossils
included in the drift, of a more Arctic character than it is
at the present time. Is it very difficult to connect the
phenomena of the grooved, striated and indented rocks
with the action of shore-ice, ice-floes and icebergs ?

It appears to me highly probable that at the commence-
ment of the boulder period there was a gradual sinking
of this area: successively, therefore, the points of dif-
ferent degrees of elevation were brought within the in-
fluence of the sea, and exposed to the rake of the tides
charged with masses of ice which had been floated off
from the surrounding shores, and bearing in their under
surfaces mud, gravel and fragments of hard rock. K the
basset-edge of a rock were opposed to the drifting cur-
rents, it is probable that their effect would be to detach
pieces from it, or to break up the beds, especially when
they consisted of alternations of soft shale with limestone.
Thus an accumulation of mud, with blocks of limestone
and the boulders torn from the old red conglomerate^
would be constantly taking place in the hollows, and the
sea-bottom would gradually be filled up. If the rock

LOADED IC£« 119

over which the ice-charged current flowed presented no
serious obstacle, if it were for instance one of the lime-
stone domes or bosses which are so numerous here, — then,
instead of tearing the beds in pieces, the effect of a mass
of loaded ice groimded upon it would be to polish, groove
and scratch the surface ; and though the general direction
of these marks would be that of the great tide-ways, yet
so long as the rock was subject to the extremes of high
and low water (just as at the present time the Carrig boss
is in the centre of Poolvash Bay), we can readily conceive
how the ice-charged breakers might produce scratches in
any direction. Afterwards, as the submergence of the land
proceeded, and these bosses became placed at greater
depths below the sea-level, they would be beyond the
reach of the merely scratching influence of shore-ice, but
still suffer from the digs and thumps of icebergs, and by
such blows would the indentations and those furrows, which,
from being very deep and rough, gradually die out, be
produced.

In the separate detail of these operations we may very
possibly have erred; in the opinion of some, there may
have been no depression of land, but on the contrary, eleva^
Hon; or the polished furrows may be attributed to icebergs
and the identatiom to shore-ice; but the general theory
which seeks for the solution of these phsenomena in the
action of ice, in some shape or other, floating in marine
currents, does certainly not tax our credulity to any un-
reasonable extent.

Having spoken of the manner in which the sea-bottom
was being filled up in the glacial period, it is easily under-
stood how these furrowed and scratched bosses also became
ultimately covered up with the accumulated glacial de-
posits^ and how these marks have been preserved from
erosion at a subsequent time, when this area was agaiu

120 THB I8LE OF HAN.

upheaved. The foreign rocks of tbe boulder period are
plainly the produce of erratic bergs detached from more
distant shores.

About sixty or seventy yards to the north of the lime-
kilns is the boulder of porphyritic greenstone^ to which
allusion has before been made as having probably been
detached from the mass of similar rock at the northern
extremity of Langness^ and drifted across Castletown-bay.
The scratches and groovings on the surface of the rock at
the limekilns point directly to that same spot on Lang-
ness. But as it may be argued that the current was as
likely to have flowed from the magnetic west as from the
east^ it is desirable to state that there is no distinct trace
in the boulder-clay at the limekilns of the rocks which lie
to the westward of that point, viz. the trap — ^tuff and breccia
which extend from the Stack of Scarlet to Poolvash Bay,
and over which the drifting current would have passed
had it come from the westward. It is at any rate a sin-
gular circumstance that we do not meet with these rocks,
and it is not readily to be accounted for on the supposi-
tion that the currents of that period were solely due to the
ebb and flow of the tide. At this very spot, however, we
fall in with pebbles of foreign rocks in the boulder clay,
which must have come from a great distance, from the
shores of Cumberland and the south of Scotland; we have
for instance fragments of the grit of the coal measures.
Now all this leads to the conviction of one great current
setting down from the Solway Frith upon these shores,
and overpowering the effects of the local currents caused by
the flux and reflux of the tide. The origin of such a cur-
rent is at present a mere matter of speculation ; we dare
only point to the evidences of its existence.

On the hypothesis of a gradual depression of the land
and sea-bottom, it is easy to see that as long as any par-

THE GREAT CURRENT. 121

ticular surface was within the direct influence of the tide
(lying, we will say, between high and low water), traces of
that influence might be left on it, in scratches varyiug in
direction from that of the prevailing great current, as
indicated by the polished furrows and groovings; yet
afterwards, as the submergence proceeded, and the surface
of rock was placed at some depth below the level of the
sea, all the detrital matter, the accumulation of the boulder
clay deposited on it, would be the product of the great
current only, and this appears to have flowed from the
magnetic east.

122 THE ISLE or HAN.

CHAPTER X.

The trap rocks of Scarlet. — Evidences of successive volcanic erup-
tions. — Great thickness of trappean beds. — Fossils of the trap-
tuff. — ^The Posidonian schist interposed in it. — Probable extent
and duration of the black marble quarries. — The economy of their
working. — ^The Poolvash limestone. — Great abundance in it of the
fossils of the Lower Scar limestone of Yorkshire. — Pleistocene
beds at Strandhall. — Singular stalactitic concretions.

If the hieroglyphics which we have just been endeavouring
to decipher at the limekilns remind ns that there has been
a period when the great agent employed in giving its phy-
sical contour and character to this area was ice^ we have a
chapter which has been stereotyped in a frame of molten
rocks hard by at the Stack of Scarlet^ which declares that
the intensity of volcanic fire has also been exerted on the
same object.

The undulations which we have noticed as increasing in
number and intensity towards this point are suddenly in-
tercepted by a series of igneous trappean rocks of every
character and description^ from a hght pumice and volcanic
ash to solid columnar basalt.

First of all we fall in with a compact trap-dyke of five
feet in width running nearly north and south magnetic
and intersecting the limestone ; thirty yards further to
the westward is another large dyke, or assemblage of
dykes, running N. SOP W., and the limestone appears
thrown down violently towards it, and masses of it are en-
tangled in the trap and metp-morphosed. Proceeding eleven
yards farther to westward we come upon a mass of amyg-

TRAP BOCKS OF SCABLET. 123

daloid, and this abuts against an isolated patch of altered
limestone which has been raised into a dome or bdss rather
more than thirty yards across ; round this boss and en->
veloping it like the coats of an onion are beds of trap-tuff
or volcanic ash, and upon these a mass of trap-breccia. All
these beds appear to have been broken up by the pro-
trusion of the basaltic mass terminated in ihe Stacks and
it would seem as if through the openings thus caused in the
earth's crust another accumulation of trappean mud or ash
bad been poured forth which rests across the upturned edges
of the previously erupted beds. We may perhaps some-
times have seen a thick coat of ice on the surface of a canal
broken up by the passage of a boat and piled in masses on
either side, and then frozen in a second time, so that the
fragments of the first freezing stood bristling up edgeways
at every conceivable angle and presented fantastic groups of
miniature sierras. Now something of a similar picture is
set before us in these trappean beds at Scarlet Stack. The
scenery is extremely wild and picturesque, though the scale
is so limited in its extent ; a miniature volcanic mountain
with traces of sepai'ate convulsions and outpourings of vol-
canic products. But the volcano was subaqueous which
afforded the materials accumulated here, or at any rate it
was so near the sea that the mass of ashes and scoriae which
were ejected fell at once into the waters, were borne along
by the currents, and deposited in regular layers of stratifi-
cation over the sea-bottom.

I have never been able to make out with certainty where
the volcanic vent was that emitted the trappean materials
first deposited, though I have conjectured that it was a pro-
longed chasm extending from the Stack of Scarlet into Fool-
vash Bay. We have but a mere strip of these rocks along
the shore between high and low water to judge by, and the
whole country has suffered so much from denudation that

124 THE ISLE OF HAN.

we cannot always be certain where the denser masses
have originally been. That there was afterwards a great
convulsion along an axis in this direction is very evident^
and also that it was this which originated the more violent
contortions of the strata and was connected with the for-
mation of the basaltic pile of the Stack ; and that still sub-
sequently there was an outpouring of similar volcanic matter
to that at first accumulated in this basin^ but enveloping
altered fragments of the former eruption as well as of car-
boniferous limestone by which a species of breccia was
formed ; this is all pretty plain as to the general statement^
but it is not always so easy to determine of two contiguous
masses of the trappean formation to which of these periods
they belong. It appears also most probable^ that at the
period of the great convulsion just alluded to there was so
much heat evolved (perhaps with add gases) as to alter
considerably the character of the adjacent rocks. The
metamorphosis is so complete in some instances as to
render it difficult at first sight to determine of a piece
of rock whether it is altered, limestone or true trap.
Such a result may arise from the circumstance which will
presently be more particularly noticed^ that at the period of
the deposit of the volcanic ash at the bottom of the sea the
ordinary calcareous deposit was also proceedings and the
resulting beds were a mixture of trappean with carbonaceous
matter. Such a rock altered in various degrees must ne-
cessarily present appearances of a passage from, true lime><
stone into true trap.

The view from the summit of the Stack of Scarlet is very
striking. We are standing on a pile of basaltic columns,
not so magnificent or distinct certainly as those of the
Giant's Causeway in the north of Ireland, but exhibiting
the same characteristics ; the sail-clad sea is spread almost
entirely around, and at high water completely isolates the

M'.}

STACK OF SCARLET. 125

mass. To the extreme west the Calf of Man with the Btur-
rough and the Eye rock stretch far down into the Irish Sea^
appearing from this point as it did from Langness^ simply
a prolongation of the Mull Hills. The bold front of Spanish
Head rears itself aloft^ and casts its black shadow athwart
the waters of Poolvash Bay ; then the precipitous Head of
Brada to the north of Port Erin^ from which (with the ex-
ception of the deep chasm in which lies Fleshwick Bay) we .
have a continuation of the insular chain to the north-east^
including the more elevated points of Irey-na-Lhaa and
South Barrule. The northern mountains of the island as
seen from this point appear well clustered together^ and
form a fine background to Castletown and its bay^ at the
head of which the college facing in this direction is seen to
great advantage. Sweeping round to the east^ Derbyhaven
with its white-washed cottages and herring-house^ then the
fort and mined oratory on St. MichaeFs Isle^ come into
view, and quite round to the south-east we have the round
tower on Langness.

The contortions of the limestone at Scarlet are well seen
hencCi^ ; the smooth surface of the beds, and their step-like
&ce where opposed to the denuding action of the sea, are
finely contrasted with the rugged character of the trap
rocks, and the isolated mass of the crystalline altered lime*
stone nearer to us. The very violent contortion of an ap-
parently detached portion of the dark limestone enveloped
in the trap-tuff, and jammed up against the outburst of
basalt which terminates in the Stack, is particularly inter-
esting, and catches the eye from this point when the rocks
are laid bare at low water.

The fault before mentioned running N. 35° W. magnetic
enables us to determine pretty nearly the thickness of the
lower limestone series in this part of the basin.

♦ See the view, " Castletown from the Stack of Scarlet,"

126 tHE ISLE OF MAN.

I have measured accurately the thickness of this hme-*
stone from low water mark^ spring tides, to the black shaly
bed which appears just to underlie the Foolvash limestone,
and this amounts to 129 feet. I cannot add more than 50
feet from the low water mark to the base of the limestone
series, as the old red conglomerate at the south-western
end of Langness runs out into Castletown Bay a great
distance and at a low angle ; so that we may put down in
round numbers 180 feet for the dark limestones and shales
at the Stack of Scarlet.

The upper portion of the isolated and altered patch of
limestone nearest the Stack appears by the included fossils,
as far as they can be made out, to belong to the light*
coloured Poolvash limestone, but the lower portion may
readily be observed as being the same with the black beds
to the northward of the protruded amygdaloid and trap
which have isolated this limestone boss. It is very unfor-
tunate that at this point (where, in consequence of the re*
moval of the driffc-gravel and boulder clay^ we have a distinct
view of the order of superposition in the limestone series)
the rocks should have been so much altered from their or-
dinary character. It is the more unfortunate because the
junction between the upper and lower series of limestones
in this basin is everywhere covered up by the tertiary for-
mations ; or wherever along this line of fault, running from
Scarlet to Strandhall in the north-west of Poolvash Bay,
they are brought up to view, they are both metamorphosed
in such ^a manner as to render it somewhat difficult to de-
termine whether the passage from one to the other was
gradual or sudden. Such evidence as we have is in favour
of the latter supposition. It is very plain that some decided
change took place in the character of the sea-bottom of
that period, either in consequence of gradual fiUing up, or,
as seems equally probable, by volcanic elevation, which ren-

CBOMWELL^S WALK. 127

dered it a fit area for the development of organized life to
a greater extent and of a more diversified character than
hitherto. To be fully convinced of this fact, let us just
before parting with them observe carefully the fossils of
the upper portion of the lower dark limestone group.

There is a great dearth of fossils here, and the few which
we find are of large species: — ^viz. Caninia gigantea of
Micheliii*, Ortkoceras giganteuSy Nautilus complanatus and
Ganiatites Henslou^ii; the two latter were named origin
# nally from specimens found at this spot which are now in
the Woodwardian Museum at Cambridge and are almost
uniquef . The Brachiopodous MoUusks are extremely rare.
We shall find the reverse to be the case when we get into
the Foolvash limestone series. Let us start thither.

The summary which we must give of appearances at the
Stack of Scarlet is, that there were certainly two eruptions
or disturbances ; the one producing cracks and faults run*
ning about S. 35^ E. and N. 35^ W« magnetic, with others
at right angles to this direction ; another producing cracks
and faults running S. 15"^ E. and N. 15^ W., with others
at right angles to this direction. The latter was probably
contemporary with the trap-dykes which intersect this area.

As we pass along the shore the great thickness of the
trappean deposit seems to come out in a more striking man*
ner, and presents scenery quite peculiar to itself, whose
wildness and desolateness, though on so small a scale, it is
impossible to realize from mere description. This is par-
ticularly the ease at a spot familiarly known by the name
of CromweU^s Walk, wh^e the action of the sea, aided by
the peculiar condition of these beds, which have a tendency

* I am indebted for this identifieatum to Count Keyserling.
t There is also a large fucoid or perhaps zoophyte {Calamopora
infiatal) which is distributed very extensively over two of the beds.

128 THB I8LB OF MAN.

to split up into rhomboidal maues^bas wrought deep chaBmsu
which after all do not discover the base of the formation*.
It is however very interesting to mark the regularity of
stratification in this trap-tuff or trappean ash, and the evi-
dences it presents of a quiet deposit of the ash along with
the ordinary carboniferous limestone of this area. We
begin to see this first in a deep gully 100 yards north-
westward of Cromwell's Walk, where there is a thin bluish-
coloured bed low down in the tuff, which appears in every
respect like a mixture of limestone and trap. If we follow '
the rise of this bed towards the north-west, we come to an-
other denuded recess just under the stone shed which has
been built on a prominent point of the tuff. In this we have,
rising on a boss, a thick bed of black schistose limestone
which is completely enveloped in the trappean beds and
appears to dip under them in all directions ; but as the boss
is much broken and disturbed, we cannot be quite certain
of this latter statement, more particularly as there is another
bed of similar limestone I believe higher up in the series, as
well as a thin band of the same rock, consisting mostly of
black cherty nodules of a still more recent date.

My opinion at present is, that this black schistose lime-
stone, which here appears low down in the trap-tuff, is the
same as the Posidonian schist of Foolvash, though, from the
circumstance of there being, as it would seem, three beds of
this black limestone and the whole district much disturbed,
it is hardly right to speak confidently. Amongst the dis-
turbed trappean beds for instance, close upon the Stack of
Scarlet, there is a contorted fragment of black schistose
limestone, but it is quite impossible to fix the bed to which
it belongs.

With some little trouble a small dyke may be made out
intersecting all these trappean beds between high and low
* It is at this point certainly not less than 50 feet thick.

tbtAPpean ash. 129

water, and its protrusion seems to have contorted the neigh-
bouring beds ; it runs hence N. 46^ W. in a Kne for the
Carrig rock in Port St. Mary Bay, and is probably the same
as that which appears in the schist at the mouth of the
Colby river near Kentraugh.

The trappean beds present a very singular brecciated ap-
pearance at a point where the shore begins to take a more
northerly direction. It is a species of conglomerate rock,
of which the inclosed boulders seem to be altered limestone.
Here also we find masses of the black schist enveloped in
the trappean beds and quite cherty.

Along the high water mark the strata have been much
dislocated, and there is evidently the continuation of the
line of fault from the Stack of Scarlet. But between high
and low water the beds are very regular, and dip at a low
angle in a direction for Port St. Mary N. 56^ W. magnetic.

On the shore near the pile of stones erected by the
Trigonometrical Survey, we have rather a large develop-
ment of the trappean limestone beds, in which sometimes
the trappean ash is the prevailing ingredient, at others the
carbonate of lime. But the most interesting circumstance
is, that we meet with organic remains regularly imbedded
not only in the limestone, but in the trappean ash ; they are
chiefly corals and crinoidea, and are the newest of the palaeo-
zoic fossils occurring on the Isle of Man; they are rather
abundant than otherwise, though the eye does not readily
catch the particular beds in which they occur.

It is very readily seen that the black schistose beds are
lenticular,, and that the black mud of which they are com-
posed was deposited in hollows and a shallow sea ; indeed,
from the manner in which the great Posidonian schist bed
at Poolvash, which is wrought as a marble quarry, thins out
round the bosses of limestone which appear just at high
water mark, it seems probable that the configuration of the

130 THE ISLE OF If AN.

sea-shore in this immediate locality was the same at that
particular period as it is now.

There is a ruined workshop of the marble-cutters at a
point where the shore turns northward to form the inlet
which is generally called 'par excellence' Poolva8h*,9nd
it is here that the great black schistose limestone bed rapidly
attains^ as it dips into the sea, a thickness which has not yet
been pierced, though at the back of the building a few yards
to the south we find it only a foot thick, and seeming to die
out amongst the trappean beds inland. It is an important
point for the geologist to observe and to trace the continuity
of this thin bed, having the trap-tuff below and above it,
as it is the only evidence we have of the reality of the in*
terpolation of the great Fosidonian schist bed in the trap-
pean formation. The circumstance of our observing all
along the coast of this bay the black schist reposing at once
on the limestone -f, would lead at first to the belief that the
passage from the one to the other was direct and uninter^
rupted. But a happy denudation of the beds near this
workmen's shed shows, that after some disturbance of the
limestone the trap-tuff was deposited in hollows and bays
which it filled up, and that then the mud of the Fosidonian
schist was thrown down so as to overlap the line of junction
of the trap-tuff and limestone and thus overspread both
formations. Perhaps a closer examination may show, that
just before the deposit of the Fosidonian schist there was a
second slight disturbance of the sea-bottom, and hence the
rapid thickening to seaward of this bed.

In consequence of the extensive denudation which has
taken place over this area, it is impossible to determine the
thickness of the accumulating trap-tuff superior to the great
Fosidonian schist bed. As measured near Scarlet Head it
* The bay of death, from the Manx PoyU, a pool, and Baase, death.
t See section to ground plan in Plate Y.

P08IDONIAN SCHIST. l3l

was certainly not less in that locality than 60 feet^ and it
includes^ as we have noticed, other beds of black cherty
limestone and trappeo-Umestone beds, and beds containing
organic remains. There are also overspreading masses of
a trap-breccia which contains lumps of the altered subjacent
rocks, and there are trap-dykes intersecting all these beds
which probably overflowed their surface and added to their
thickness, though we have no distinct evidence of the
passage of these dykes into overlying trap, so fai* as I have
iiitherto observed them.

This immediate locahty is much intersected with these
trap-dykes^ to the protrusion of which I attribute the great
<»ntortions and the mammillated appearance of the beds of
Fosidonian schist*. There is a small dyke, one foot wide,
close under the marble-mason's ruined workshop just men-
tioned ; to the northward of that a few yards, another 6 feet
^de ; and thirty yards still further north, one of 21 feet in
width. The general direction of these is about N. 15^ W. and
S. 15*^ E. I presume that these are a continuation of the
dykes observed at the Stack of Scarlet disappearing under the
•drift in this direction. Again, at the mouth of the stream
from Balladoole, where the surface of the Fosidonian schist is
remarkably studded with bosses, we have a dyke which seems
first to run hence N. 15° W. magnetic for some Httle distance,
and then turns N. 35° W., and is probably the most south-
.erly of the three which we meet with in the little creek op-
posite to which the road from Balladoole comes out upon
the shore. I conjecture this to be a branch of the great
Knockrushen dyke, and thus a continuation of the more
southerly of the two notable dykes which intersect Langness t •

The Fosidonian schist is so important a bed in an eco-
nomical point of view, that I have dwelt rather largely upon
it, in order that its true character and probable extent may
* See Plate V. t See Plate II-

182 THE ISLE OF MAN.

be known. Since the days when Bishop Wilson caused
to be quarried here the steps of St. PauPs Cathedral in
London, a great inroad has been made upon the workable
portion of it. The great depth at which it is in some places
buried under the trap-tuff, the contortion and cracking
which it has experienced in others, and its alteration for
some feet where in contact with the trap- dykes ; again, its
thinning out inland, and the circumstance of the thicker
beds only lying below high water mark, — all combine to
make the exhaustion of the quarry as a remunerative invest-
ment a very possible thing, though very many years must
elapse at the present rate of working ere this can take place.
Prom the facility with which it is wrought into chimney-
pieces, tomb-stones, steps, &c., it is evident that if it were
better known in England a large demand would probably
arise. It does not however take a natural polish in conse-
quence of its soft character. A kind of black varnish is put
upon the objects which are wrought out of it, and in this
way they are made to look not much inferior to the best
Derbyshire black marble.

The labours of the quarriers in getting at this black mar-^
ble have shown us another locality in which the groovings
and striations of the glacial period may be well examined.

At the point where the more northerly of the two largest
trap-dykes just noticed disappears under the drift and
boulder aieries, a large portion of the latter has been removed,
and on the surface of the Fosidonian schist thus laid bare
the glacial marks are very finely developed, with their bear-
ings corresponding to those which we have observed at the
limekilns near Scarlet Stack.

The different layers (or lifts, as the quarriers call them)
of the Posidonian schist bed vary both in their lithological
texture and in organic contents. The finest and most
compact layer, which is worked for ornamental purposes, is

POaLVASH LIMESTONE. 133

characterized by an abundance of the Fosidonia and the
relics of tree-ferns, which we must necessarily regard with
interest as indicating an approach, though still at a con-
siderable distance, towards the coal formation of Great
Britain. Another layer is little better than a soft shale
charged largely with sulphuret of iron, and in this we have
preserved (converted into that sulphuret) the remains
chiefly of cephalopods, Goniatifes and Orthocerata. There
is a gentle rill in the eastern comer of this little creek
which bursts out from under the drift-gravel near one of
the trap-dykes, and the cattle coming down to drink there,
trample about in this shale bed and break it up, and the
tides then wash out the fossils and cast them ashore. In
consequence of their metallic lustre and electrotypic ap-
pearance, they have been much sought after by those who
are acquainted with the locality, and have become rather
scarce. It may be well to note, that all the beds of the
Posidonian schist are more or less charged with iron
pyrites.

Continuing our sea-side ramble north-westward, we meet
with a succession of creeks in which we find the hollows
' occupied by thin beds of the Posidonian schist, but the
ridges are composed of a pale grey Umestone almost entirely
made up of fossils. These belong to the upper limestone
series, which from the locality I have termed the Poolvash
limestone. The colour seems owing almost entirely to the
abundance of the organisms contained in the rock, and
throughout the entire mass no trace of a shale bed appears.
, The manner in which this patch of the newest lime-
stone in the very centre of the basin has been preserved
and exhibited to our view, is somewhat singular.

The original deposition of the beds of this Poolvash
limestone seems to have been in a wide but not very deep
bay, in which a line drawn from Spanish Head to Kirk

134 THE ISLE OF MAK.

Santon Head would perhaps unite the extreme homs^
though^ in consequence of the denudation of the tilted
edges both on the east and west side^ we have no data by
which to establish this satisfactorily.

When the whole of this area was broken up by the con-
vulsion which originated the trap-dykes undulations and
bosses, the I hill above Balladoole near Foolvash seems to
have been elevated somewhat more than the neighbouring
portion in a dome shape^ and in the elevation it cracked
along its south-western and north-western sides. Thus,
when the denuding action subsequently took place, which
we have always presumed to have come from the north-
east and round towards the south, in consequence of their
dip towards that quarter, the Foolvash beds on the Balla-
doole side were preserved.

We may perhaps illustrate the changes which have
passed over this southern area since the Old Red Sand-
stone or Devonian period in the following manner.

Suppose a freshwater lough fed by a large river, but just
accessible to the sea at about the ordinary half-tides. A
hard frost sets on at the time of high water of the highest
spring tide, and coats the lough with ice ; on the ebb of
the tide the water falls a few feet, and the ice sinks down
upon the sides of the lough. In this condition a second
coat of ice is forme*at the ordinary level of the lough, and
the first icy coating sticks up on aU sides around it. When
the tide flows again, the incoming waters force up the ice
in the centre of the lough, and through the cracks thus
formed the salt water gushes up, and forming a mixture
with the fresh water of the river, overflows the broken beds
of the first and second freezing ; but as the tide this time
does not rise so high as before, supposing another coat of
ice now formed of this mixture of salt and fresh water,
though it will overspread all the ice of the second freezing

BALLADOOLE HILL. 135

and partially of the first, it will still leave a portion of the
first freezing sticking up around its edges. A fourth sheet
of freshwater ice is again formed on the recess of the tide,
which is again contorted and broken up at the next high
water, when another and fifth crust is frozen of mixed salt
and fresh water, the proportions of each, as in the third
freezing, varying according to the distance of any particular
locality from the mouth of the lough. The tide ebbs and
flows again, but this last time, in consequence of a violent
storm producing a heavy ground-swell upon the sea, the
force of the incoming tide is such as to produce great un-
dulations and domes in the centre of the lough. A thaw
commences in the interior of the country, and the aug-
mented volume of the river consequent upon it sweeps
along over the surface of the lough and erodes the beds,
which being tilted up are more directly opposed to its
violence, whilst those which present a smooth surface to
the current are preserved. At the same time the hollows
are filled up with gravel and detritus brought down from
the uplands on the melting of the snow and the overflow
of the river upon its banks.

In the above illustration, the first freezing will represent
the older lowest dark limestone of Ronaldsway and Port
St. Mary ; the second is the Poolvash limestone ; the third
the lower trap-tufl"; the fourth the Posidonian schist bed ;
the fifth is the upper trap-tuff; and the alluvial deposit
after the denudation may represent the position of the
boulder formation and drift-gravel series overlying the
undulating and broken beds in the lower portion of this
southern area of the Isle of Man.

The crack which we have just noticed as occurring on the
touth-west side of the BaUadoole hill is best seen at a point
where the sea-road suddenly descends to the shore after
passing a small cluster of cottages four himdred yards west*

135 THE ISLE OF MAN.

ward of the road to Balladoole. The lift seems to have been
suf&cient to bring up the black beds of the lower hmestone
to view.

At this point between high and low water there is a
spring which seems to communicate with an underground
pool^ filled from the sea at high water^ and which continues
to run as a salt stream several hours after the ebb of the
tide*.

The whole of the coast hence to Strandhall is so cut up
with dykes and metamorphosed^ that it is impossible to
make out any order in the beds^ though it is generally
evident that in proceeding north-westward^ we are descend-
ing again into the lower series f.

The very great alteration which has taken place in the
limestone here would seem to indicate that this was the
grand focus of disturbance at the period of the trap-dykes,
and this is further confirmed by the circumstance that the
majority of the dykes which stretch over the area seem to
converge towards this locality as a centre.

I had the great gratification of submitting a portion of
this altered limestone to that eminent continental geologist
Baron Leopold Yon Buch, and after a very tittle examina-
tion, he pronounced it pure dolomite. A chemical analysis
also of the same rock, by my valued friend George Kemp,
Esq., M.D., determined its magnesian character. The
estabtishing this species of metamorphism in connexion
with trap-rock is highly interesting and important J.

* This is the best locality for obtaining a series of the Poolvash
fossils. They are so abundant as really to make up the substance
of the rock. Within an area of 100 yards, almost every species
noted in the Scar limestone of Yorkshire may be found.

t If the trap-tuff and Posidonian schist extended thus far (w)iich
is highly probable), they have been entirely denuded.

X Geologists seem to have been misled many years ago, when
their science was in its infancy (a mere branch of mineralogy), by

PLEISTOCENE CONCSETIONS.

187

When we reach Strandhall, the limestone has recovered
its ordinary character, and the lower beds are exhibited
between high and low water nearly horizontal, and charged
abundantly with its characteristic fossils.

There is an interesting phsenomenon connected with the
tertiary sands, which, as we have the opportunity, we may
as weU study at this point, though the same is developed
on a much grander scale in the north of the island.

As might be naturally anticipated, many of the springs
of this neighbourhood, passing through and over the beds
of limestone or washing the boulder clay, are highly charged
with carbonate of lime. A spring of this character burst-
ing forth from imder the drift-gravel near some cottages
on the sea-shore at the mouth of the Strandhall streamlet,
has cemented the pleistocene sands of this locality in a very
singular manner, forming hard, sonorous, stalactitic-looking
masses. These are often tabular, and pierced with a series
of long tubes varying in bore from that of a straw to two
or even three inches diameter. At other times they are
like long tapering icicles with a stone attached to the
thicker end. It would seem that the water forcing its way
through the pleistocene sands interposed between two layers
of loam, and carrying with it particles of the carbonaceous
clay thence derived, has a tendency to form concretionary
masses on the lee side of any obstacle, (as for instance a
pebble bedded in the sand,) and pipes or cavities where it
has a freer course. The fragments of shells in the sand
assist towards this concretionary structure, and perhaps it
is owing to their great abundance that in the north of the

specimens of rock taken from this neighbourhood. Some early
geological maps which I have seen, lay down a hroad hand of the
magnesian limestone formation enveloping palaeozoic formations in
the Isle of Man. There is dolomite indeed, hut it is metamorphic
limestone of the carhoniferous sra.

188 THB ISLE OF MAN«

island, though the actual quantity of lime in the boulder
clay is hardly more than six per cent., we have large masses
formed in every gully after excessive rains by the percola-
tion of the waters through the alternating beds of sand
and loam.

At Strandhall we have also a modem raised beach,
cemented by the carbonated water, and a lovely bed of moss
of some extent is being converted into travertine by the
same cause. We can easily select specimens whose upper
portion is all alive, green and flourishing, whilst the lower
is fixed and rigid in its coating of stone, which preserves
for ever the delicate outline of the growth of other days*

STSANDHALL. 139

CHAPTER XL

Stcandhall. — Submerged forest. — Has the land gone down or the
sea come up ?— The great fault. — Denudations. — Kentraugh. —
The Giants' Quoiting-stones. — ^The Runic Cross. — Port St. Mary.
— Perwick Bay. — Coast scenery. — Spaloret and the Chasms.—
The Samphire-gatherers. — Spanish Head. — Rumpy cats. — The
Calf Islet and Cow Harbour. — The city of the Conies. — Bushel's
house. — ^Boss of gravel in the Calf of Man. — ^Icebergs again. —
Diluvium. — ^The legend of Kitter and the sword Macbuin*

We are once more on the high road^ and two miles to the
eastward along it would return us to Castletown, though
our walk thence along the shore has been double that in
distance, and, not including stoppages, the treble of it in
point of time. But we are bound for Port Erin and Flesh«
wick Bay, Port St. Mary, the Chasms, and the Calf Islet,
Our ungeological friends have promised to pick us up at
this point as they pass by in their carriage, but we are
decided on first of all making them alight awhile, and ex-
amine with us the ruins of a submerged forest.

At the mouth of the Strahdhall brook, between high
and low water, may be observed a bed of turf about one
foot thick, and the trunks of trees (chiefly ash and fir)
standing upright, and their roots running down into an
alluvial blue sandy marl; these roots maybe traced several
feet, and it is perfectly plain that here on this very spot
the trees hved and grew. The same thing (viz. the exist-
ence at one time of forest trees at a level now below high
water) is also established for other localities around this
great bay. Twenty-one years ago, according to the testi-
mony which I have received from living witnesses, after a

140 THE ISLE OF MAN.

violent stonn of three days^ the sands opposite Mount
Gawne were swept away and discovered a vast number of
trunks of trees^ some standing upright^ others laid prostrate
towards the norths as if overthrown by some violent incur-
sion of the sea*. Nay, it has been further stated to me
by those whom I am bound to beUeve, that the foundations
of a primitive hut were laid bare, and that therein were
some antique uncouth-looking instruments, once the pro-
" perty, it may be, of the primitive woodcuttersf. Now we
need not be told that the oak, ash and fir are not marine
plants, and that turf and algae do not ordinarily occupy
together the same soil ; and yet the algae wave and float
around and upon these venerable stumps, as if they were
veritably the mere metamorphosed mosses and lichens
which in more ancient days fastened and luxuriated upon
them. To what do these things tend? The land has
either gone down, or the sea come up. The latter suppo-
sition no geologist will subscribe to, as it has now become
an axiom that nothing is so stable as the sea, and nothing
so unstable as the land. The land has gone down then,
and carried the turf and the trees along with it. But I
further believe that it has partly come up again. My rea-
sons are the following.

I have already alluded in several instances to a raised
sea-beach, of apparently a modem date, occurring very
distinctly along the coasts of the southern part of the
island, at a level of about eight feet above the present high

♦ One gentleman (the father of my informant), hoping to turn
the strange occurrence to some account, carted away several loads of
the rotten turf which was laid hare and spread it upon his lands. The
effect was just the opposite to his intention : the fields were barren
for two or three years.

t The marks of a hatchet are discernible on one of the stumps
which I have removed.

SUBMERGED FOREST. 141

water. In many instances the coast-road runs upon this
beach^ and the former beach (generally a bank of the
boulder clay or drift-gravel) rises up on the landward side
at distances varying, according to the fall of the ground,
from twenty to fifty yards from the present high water
mark. The road in fact runs between two coast Unes, the
present and a more ancient one. Perhaps the two most
clear examples are, the road from Hango Hill to Castle-
town, and the road at the foot of Mount Gawne, between
the mouth of the Colby river at Kentraugh and the stream-
let which comes down from the meadows of Kirk Christ^s
Rushen. I have just alluded to the cementing of the ma-
terials of this newest beach by the calcareous spring hard
by here at Strandhall. My own feeling then is, that this
last-raised beach has been formed since the growth and
perishing of the half-merged forest. First appearances
perhaps go the other way, and it seems easier to suppose,
that when the land was elevated so as to form this beach,
the elevation was to such an extent as to leave dry a large
portion, if not the whole, of Poolvash Bay, and that on the
land thus gained from the sea the forest grew, and that
there has been since that time a gradual sinking of the
land, by which the sea has regained its territory nearly up
to the ancient beach of the drift-gravel, and that thus the
trees have been submerged.

But let us examine the matter a little more closely. We
may first then observe, that the localities where the trees
are found are at the mouths of low valleys opening out
widely into the sea ; and, as I have previously stated, they
seem to have been formed by the denuding action of the
sea during the elevation of the great drift-gravel platform,
and are contemporary with the scooping-out of the great
basin of the Curragh in the north of the island. Now that
elevation being to such an extent as to connect the island

142 THE ISLE OF MAN.

with the surrounding countries^ these excavated valleys
would be far more extensive than now^ and their termini
would be removed many miles from the points where they
now meet the salt water. These were the valleys and
plains in which the great Elk (Megaceros Hibemicus) de-
lighted^ and in them, in the south of the island as well as
in St. John^s Vale and the Curragh of the north, his re-
mains are found. And as in the present day these low
alluvial and sheltered valleys are almost the only localities
where timber seems readily to grow, so would it be then.

But a period of submergence came : the sea again over-
spread the valleys and converted them into estuaries,
whilst the great drift-gravel platform was being quietly
still further eaten away, and then the turf-beds and the
forest-trees became the habitat of marine monsters :

" PiBcium et 8umm& genus hsesit ulmo*."

The inner coast line was then formed. But a giftdual
emergence again set on, and may still imperceptibly be
going forward, which has brought up to our inspection out
of the great brine-vat the preserved samples of a primitive
vegetation, which have been in pickle for (it may be) thou-
sands of generations.

In our onward journey by the high road we must again
ask our friends to halt and alight for ten minutes, whilst
we examine the fault which cuts off suddenly the lime-
stone in the western area of this southern basin. It is
rather better than half a mile westward of the Strandhall
streamlet, and not more than 300 yards beyond the lime-
kiln by the road-side, and about the same distance from
the eastern lodge of Kentraugh. Here it is I clear enough
on the sea-shore, where a short road, convenient for cart-
ing the wrecked sea-weed, leads down from the highway.

♦ Horace, Od. i. 2,

THE GREAT FAULT. 143

We are looking nearly westward *, in a line which passes
through the limekilns at Fort St. Mary^ and grazes the
bluff coast extending thence by Spanish Head and the
isouthem side of the Calf of Man down to the Burrough
and the Eye rock. On our left hand is the lower dark
limestone^ nearly horizontal ; on our right the schist^ dip-
ping generally at a very low angle towards the souths
but with gentle undulations as we proceed in a westerly
direction. We stand on broken ground covered with
boulders and shingle^ but with some slight indications
that along the line of fault the same mass of greenstone
runs which is discernible at Port St. Mary. Where is
the Old Red conglomerate ? I have little doubt that it
underlies the limestone here up to the very edge of the
fault, and of a respectable thickness too, for such is the
case a few miles inland up the country, as seen by the
cross-fault at Athol-bridge on the Peel-road from Castle-
town f. But it is plain enough that after the elevation of
the entire country on the northern % side of a line drawn
from Athol-bridge through this spot to Port St. Mary, a
great denuding force has clean shaved off the upper and
lower limestone, the old red conglomerate and some por-
tion of the schist beds ; and so here, as well as at the fault
at Coshnahawin (which was noticed before), the limestone
and the schist are in such juxtaposition that the fact of the
intervening old red conglomerate is not at all exhibited.

Let us take a note of the period within which this fault
occurred, for it may be of use hereafter. The boulder clay
lies directly and unbroken across the great fracture ; it was
therefore anterior to that deposit ; and though the newer
limestone beds do not reach up to this line of disturbance
now, it is very clear that this is only in consequence of the

♦ Magnetic S. 80° W. t See Plate II.

X Magnetic meridian.

144 THE ISLE OF MAN.

denudation^ which has swept away rocks on both sides of it ;
the fault was therefore posterior to the Carboniferous sera.
We have thus, even geologically speaking, a vast interval
wherein the different elements of elevation and destruction
had their play.

^The drive along the coast by Kentraugh from this point
is particularly fine, and the country around in a high state
of cultivation. There are unmistakeable evidences too of a
desire on the part of thegreat landed proprietor of this neigh-
bourhood to develope the agricultural resources of the coun-
try, and to advance the character and condition of the farm
labourers. If a similar desire were more general, the com-
plaint which has been sometimes made by EngUsh judges at
agricultural meetings on the island, that it would be de-
sirable to grow more wheat and fewer weeds, would soon
be groundless.

Just beyond the Colby river where it meets the sea near
Kentraugh, there are three roads which rise from the shore
inland upon the terrace of the drift-gravel. The first leads
up to Ballagawne and Fleshwick Bay, the second to Fort^
Erin, and the third to Port St. Mary ; this last may per-
haps be considered rather as a continuation of the main
road, and we may as weU adopt it, as most fitting to our
present object.

A gigantic slab of clay-schist stands erect in a field on
our right, — ^the monument, it may be, of " Danish chief in
battle slain.'' It once had its fellow, and tradition assigns
their location to the energies of two giants, who in a trial of
their respective skill in quoit-playing tossed them hither
from the summit of the Mull Hills *.

A few years ago there was another stone of some interest,
as being the only Runic monument in this neighbourhood
and the largest on the island, which stood at the meeting

* Hence the name, ''the Giants' Quoitmg-stones."

PORT ST. MARY. 145

of the road to Port Erin with the road running from Port
St. Mary to Bushen parish church. It must now be in-
quired after, and will be found after some search propping
the wall of a tottering outhouse in the farm-yard close by.

Port St. Mary, or as it was anciently called in Manx,
Purt-noo-Moirey,andlhence corrupted intoPort-le-Murray,
is a thriving fishing hamlet carrying on a fair export trade
of limestone, lime, and agricultural produce at all times,
and in the herring season sheltering a large portion of the
fleet whilst pursuing their fishing on the southern coasts.
The harbour was formerly not considered safe, but recent
survey has shown that with a not excessive outlay very supe-
rior accommodation might be obtained for even large vessels
in almost every wind*. The Calf of Man may be visited by
boat either from Port Erin or Port St. Mary, or we may
proceed on foot or horseback over the Mull Hills by the
sequestered hamlet of Craig Neesh to the Sound of the
Calf or Kitterland Strait and take boat there, should there
chance to be one on the spot. The direction of the wind
and the state of the weather will best determine the route,
or whether the Calf Islet should be attempted at all. The
coast scenery is so fing in this neighbourhood that the
journey by water should be adopted if practicable by those
who have heart for it, and can enjoy azure depths, dark
frowning precipices, rocky pinnacles, water- worn caves, and
the wild screaming of thousands of sea-fowl echoed re-
sponsively from one bluff headland to another.

For the purpose of visiting the far-famed chasm of
Spanish Head, let us take a boat from Port St. Mary. A

* The Mariner's Guide notes the Carrick as a dangerous rock in
the centre of Poolvash Bay. The material of which it is composed
would pay for its removal. It is a fine boss of the lower limestone.
Conchologists will find it a favourite habitat of Saxicava rugosa.
With a hammer we may detach masses of rock thick with pear-shaped
cavities and containing the living moUusk.

146 THE ISLE OF MAN.

guide will conduct the more timid thither on foot by a
somewhat tedious road which winds about on the eastern
side of the mountain. We may, whilst the boat is being
prepared, examine the limestone in the neighbourhood of
the kilns and procure a series of the fossils of the lower beds.
They are here rich in the larger corals, and good samples
of Favorites catetes and Turbinolia may be picked up. The
grooving and polishing of the limestone also just under
the boulder day near the limekilns may be well-studied, and
turning round the point into Ferwick Bay, a good section
is exhibited of the boulder clay with the drift-gravel resting
on it, and overlying the junction of the limestone with the
schist caused by the fault which has just been noticed as
continued hither from Athol Bridge through Strandhall.
Perwick Bay itself has some very pretty scenery, and will
be found well-worthy of a visit.

' And now we 're afloat and gliding down coastwise to the
south-west on the ebb tide. A good mile brings us to
Fistard Head, where, as Mr. Chaloner has noted in his book
or rather map, is the rock called " Chering Cross where
the rare grotto is.'' A huge bifurcated stack rises up
amidst the breakers like twin gigantic sugar-loaves to a
height of 150 feet*. From the almost perfect horizontaUty
of the beds of grey-coloured schist of which it is composed,
it might readily be taken, even within a short distance, for
a pile of limestonef. Flocks of gulls and curlews are per-
petually disputing its prominent points, and many a good
shot may the marksman here get at ''Mother Carey's
chickens J." The ''rare grotto" will amply repay the

* See view of Spanish Head from the chasms.

t The light hlue schist of Spanish Head breaks up into long
slahs, which are used very largely on the island as lintels for doors
and windows. It is slightly elastic and very tough in texture.

X Thalassidroma pelagica, or Stormy Petrel.

SPANISH HEAD. 147

peril of the visit. At full tide it may be sailed through^
and on a calm day no voyage can be more delicious. Below
is the deep blue pool swarming with fish of every character ;
crab% lobsters^ sea-urchins^ star-fish and medusae (jeUy-fish)
with long floating and stinging arms present an ever-
moving picture : above, the heavy-browed arches whose rude
groinings have been carved out of the soUd rock by that
never-ceasing tool with which Old Ocean fashions his won-
drdus palaces, where the flickering light dances to and fro
as the splash of the oar stirs the ripple doubled and tripled
and interlacing with its fellows returned from each jutting
point of this winding cavity.

Emerging again to the clear and steady light of day, we
find ourselves at the foot of a stupendous precipice, frown-
ing down upon us fiill 300 feet, rent into awful chasms,
and presenting detached masses which imagination at once
converts into the gathering strength of rocky avalanches,
just nbout to rush down and overwhelm us in their stu-
pendous ruin. And such events are not the mere pictures
of the imagination, but a reaUty. Even within the last
winter a pile of several tons weight precipitated itself from
the summit of Spanish Head into the raging waves below,
mingling its awful crash with the deep roar of the wintry
billow. And the geologist will easily see that the nearly
half-moon bay lying between Fistard Head and Spanish
Head has been formed by a series of such catastrophes.

The dip of the beds is nearly magnetic south, at an
angle, however, not exceeding 15®. An examination of
the neighbourhood seems to indicate that they form part
of a large dome, of which the Mull Hills are the summit.
In the elevation of that dome cracks were most likely
formed perpendicular to the surface and at right angles to
each other, converging therefore towards the central nu-
I cleus. Whether the great fault which we. have noticed

148 THE ISLE OF MAN.

already two or three, times as extending in this direction
happened at the same time with that elevation^ or was
subsequent to it, is not a point of great importance in the
question, or readily determined. The result in eithec case
would be the same, viz. that of a steep precipice towards
the south or nearly south, of which the upper part would
be always impending, and the lower part would present to
the beat of the waves great facilities for destruction, in
consequence of the cracks and chasms running inland at
right angles to the coast line. There is in fact a constant
tendency to land-slips, and the erosive action of the sea
upon the cliflF is ever accelerating such events. Any con-
vulsion of nature, and more especially a violent earth-
quake, would also produce similar catastrophes. There
are dark allusions in some of the ancient chronicles to re-
markable earthquakes felt on the island, and it is not alto-
gether improbable that the fissures which now attract par-
ticular attention may have been thus enlarged from •mere
cracks to their present size within the historic period. Dr.
M^Culloch has noticed the position of the ruins of a her-
miit^s residence in reference to this point ; and the situation
of a cromlech on the very edge of the precipice, and in-
tersected with fissures, indicates that the locality has ex-
perienced some disturbance at a date not very far back.

To get a good view of the phsenomenon we must ascend
to the summit of the precipice. By proceeding towards
the western recess of the bay, where the shore slightly re-
cedes, we may, after some toil, accomplish this. I have
ascended by the cracks and crannjes in the perpendicular
face, but I should not be disposed to venture a second
time. Having once upon a time proceeded half-way, the
incoming tide and the oncoming night forbad a return,
and forced me to adopt the system of cUmbing-boys, with
elbows and knees against the opposite walls of one of the

SAMPHiaE-GA.THERERS. 149

narrower fissures. Eight thankfully I placed my hands
upon the topmost ledge of rock, and drew myself on to its
secure platform. A story is current in the neighbourhood,
which may well make us shudder in looking down from
this fearful precipice upon the broken crags below us.

Two samphire-gatherers, husband and wife, had discover-
ed a fine bed of that herb* on a rocky ledge several fathoms
below the great platform. In no place with which I am
acquainted does it luxuriate more richly than in the clefts
and crannies about Spanish Head. They determined to
be possessed of this prized discovery; and for this pur-
pose procured a rope, which the wife permitted to be
passed under her arms, and in this manner, with an ample
bag suspended from her neck, she was let down by the
husband to the identical spot. When she had gathered as
much as she could, she signaled to be drawn up.

It would appear that, in consequence of the additional
weight, some of the strands of the rope were sprung, or,
more probably, they had been chafed and severed against
the keen edges of the rock. When within a few feet of the
top the rope altogether gave way. Can we picture the agony
of the husband in that moment, when he beheld his wife
dashing headlong from pinnacle to pinnacle, till at length
her mangled corpse was received in the rolling surge ?

On examining the rocky platform we shall observe, about
eighty yards inland from the brink of the precipice, a line
of subsidence running magnetic easi; and west, and be-
tween this line and the cliff a series of parallel deep cracks
or crevasses, some of them a good yard wide. At right
angles to these crevasses, that is, in directions running
magnetic north and south, we find the rock rent into
several grand chasms penetrating to an unknown depth,
though evidently narrowing as they proceed downward.

* Erithmum maritimum.

150 THE ISLE OF HAN.

The area of the most seriously disturbed mass^ whieh
seems ready to detach itself from the mountain-side and
rush headlong on the stightest prorocation into the sea, is
by actual measurement about 12,000 square yards.

After betaking ourselves again to the boat, a little
steady pulling will bring us in front of Spanish Head it-
self, the most southerly point of the island. 'T were hard
to say whether the upward or .the downward look is the
most sickening. We are floating betwixt as it seems twin
abysses, the ocean and the sky, the blue above and the
blue below. A stupendous wall of grey schist rears itself
on high, directly out of the sea, to an elevation of 300
feet ; its reflection in the azure mirror before us doubles
that height^ and in truth the plumb-line will sink many
fathoms even close in shore ere it strikes the bottom.
Tradition is very strong which connects the name of the
headland with the wreck of a portion of the Spanish Ar-
mada upon this iron-bound coast. Full many a noble
vessel might founder here and leave no trace behind. I
have however heard it hinted, that the island owes its sin-
gular breed of tailless cats * to that event, and that the
ancient cradle of this apparently mutilated species of the
feline family must be looked for in one of the provinces of
the south-western peninsula of Europe.

In turning the point of Spanish Head we find ourselves
suddenly in the rake of the tide, which sets, when near
the full, with great rapidity through the narrow channel
separating the Calf Islet from the main island. In bois-

* The Rumpy Cat (as it is here called) appears to he a monstro-
nty of the commoii domestic cat. In its wild state (which is not
uxuErequent) it is somewhat larger than an ordinaiy-sized cat; the
hind legs also are proportionally larger than the fore. In mixed
breeds, of which I have had frequent sight, of the same birth, some
have been without tails, others with full-length tails, and others
again with mere rudiments of tails, consisting of only a few joints.

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THE CALF ISLET. 151

terous weather the passage from the one to the other is
not without great risk, and though the width of the chan-«
nel is not more than 500 yards, there have been occasions
when for many days no comi^unication could be made
across. There are several sunken rocks^ and the strait is
often full of breakers. In mid-channel, though rather to
the northern side of it, is a small islet called Kitterland, of
about an acre and a half, on which the tide breaks in full
fury and becomes divided into two powerful river-torrents,
running from eight to ten miles per hour when the wind
blows strong at high water from south-east or north-west.

The landing at the Calf Islet is usually made at a small
creek on the northern shore, whence parties proceed by a
winding road which rises over the hill on the western side
to visit the ruins of Bushel's House and the adjacent light-
houses. It will be as easy for us to run down on the south-
eastern side of the islet, passing the fine headland Oough-
yam and a series of wild creeks, till we reach the Cow
Harbour, ,an extremely convenient place of access near the
Burrough at the south of the Calf of Man. Here then we
may ship out oars, and draw up the frail craft "in littore
sicco.^'

At the southern extremity of the Calf Islet is a fine patch
of the drift-gravel platform. It is here about twenty-five
feet above high water, resting upon the tilted edge of the
clay schist, which dips at a high angle S. 30° W. magne-
tic*. That feeble folk the conies have becavemed it in
every direction, and as their mining operations have been
carried on now, according to most ancient records f, for
many centuries, their subterranean city spreads out with

* I discovered here a small vein of sulphuret of copper in 1846.
It runs S. 60° £. magnetic, and dips S. W. by S. at an angle of 70^.

t Chaloner, writiog in 1653 of the Calf Islet, says, " Here are
some Ayries of mettled Faulcons, that build in the Rocks; ^at

152 THE 1SL£ OF MAN.

its labyrinth of streets to an unknown extent. The tenant
of this island farm^ in remuneration for the damage which
they occasion to his growing crops^ demands from them
about 2000 heads annually, the amount of which he remits
to the " Lord of the Isle/^ in part payment of the rent.

Hard by, standing out somewhat prominently into the
southern sea, are two remarkable rocks, the Burrough and
the Eye, of which the last is perfectly insulated, and both
rise to a height of more than a hundred feet above high
water, and are pierced by natural archways wrought out by
the action of the sea when at a higher relative level upon
the strike of the schist of which they are composed. The
Eye is accessible only with much risk and toil, and on its
summit is a singular excavation called the Grave of Bushel*,
in reality a place of refuge, concealment and defence, per-
haps at the time when, as Camden tells us, the islet was
held by " a pretty good garrison.'^ We ascend by an easy
road, for which we are indebted to the Edinbro* Board, as
the guardians of the northern lighthouses, who opened it

store of Conies, and Red-Deer ; and in the summer time, there arrive
out of Ireland and the Western parts of Scotland many of those small
Hawks called Merlyns. There is also a sort of Sea-Fowl, called Puf-
fines, of a very unctuous Constitution, which hreed in the Coney
holes. The flesh of these hirds is nothing pleasant, fresh, hecause
of their rank and Fish-like taste, but pickled or salted they may be
ranked with Anchovies, Caviare, or the like. But profitable they are
in their feathers and Oyl." — Description of the Isle of Man, p. 2.

* Mr. Wood described it in 1811 in the following terms : — " It is
in the form of a cross, each of the two longitudinal cavities being
about six feet long, three wide and two deep. Immediately at the
edge of the cavities is a wall of stone and mortar, two feet high, ex-
cept at the southern, western and eastern ends, which were left open,
perhaps for ingress, egress, observation, and the admission of hght.
The whole is covered with slate and mortar. Salt water is found at
the bottom, the consequence of the sea breaking over the rock in
stormy weather."

153

and keep it in good repair^ to facilitate the transport of
stores to the two important lighthouses, which are so
placed on elevated ground in the western part of the Calf
Islet as that their two Ughts being brought into one, shall
bear upon a dangerous reef, the Hen and Chickens, run-
ning out a few hundred yards into the sea, of which the
extreme point is dry at low water. How deeply interest-
ing is it to ascend the spiral stairs of one of the towers,
and to follow out the details of these beacons set upon a
hill, upon the accuracy of which depends the safety of so
many richly freighted vessels and the preservation of thou*
sands of our hardy tars in the dark nights when "the
stormy winds do blow 1^' And that solitary watcher, how
deep the responsibility which devolves upon him to keep
from sunset to sunrise the lights burning, the wicks well-
trimmed, the mirrors bright and burnished, and the ma-
chinery clean and regular, and wound up at stated seasons !

To the northward of the lighthouses, on the highest
point of the Calf Islet, full 470 feet above the sea, is a pile
of stones, erected for the Trigonometrical Survey. A
would-be hermit of the name of Bushel erected about two
centuries ago a lonely hut within a few feet of this point,
where the precipice descends with fearful rapidity into the
sea*. The following record which he has left of himself,
whilst it contradicts the story of his death and burial on
the islet, is a painful testimony to the reality of his seclu-
sion and the motives to itf : —

" The embrions of my mines proving abortive by the
sudden fall and death of my late friend the Chancellor

* Quoted in a MS. history now in the possession of the Clerk of
the Rolls, written about 1655, the author of which says he found
it set down in Mr. Thomas Bushel's Mineral Overture to the Par-
liament.

t Looking down the precipice, within a few yards of the ruined
hut into the sea, the eye rests on the two triangular or pyramidal

H 5

154 THE I8L£ Of MAN.

Bacon^ in King James's reign^ were the motives which
persuaded my pensive retirement to a three years' unso*
ciable solitude in the desohite island called the CaK of
Man, where, in obedience to my dead liord's philosophical
advice, I resolved to make a perfect experiment upon my-
self, for the obtaining a long and healthy life (most neees«
sary for such a repentance as my former debauchedness
required), as by a parsimonious diet of herbs, oil, mustard
and honey, with water sufficient, most like to that of our
long-Uved forefathers before the flood (as was conceived
by that Lord), which I most strictly observed, as if obliged
by a religious vow, till Divine Providence called me to
more active life*/'

The attention of the geologist vnll, however, on this spot
be arrested by a still more singular and far more ancient
record of events which this islet has witnessed.

Scattered here and there round about the ruins of this
hut are rounded lumps of granite and other hard rock
(strangers to this islet) about the size of a medium cannon-
ball. They were certainly not brought hither for Mr.
Bushel's special amusement, nor is it very likely that he
followed so closely in the steps of his master as to specu-
late on the fact of their occurrence in this singular locality ;
and yet their occurrence is well-worth the study of even
the most profound philosopher. Whence did they come
hither ? Haw did they come ? These are questions which
involve in their answer some of the most interesting theo-
ries of geologists.

rocks of the Stack, fifteen yards from the bottom of the cliff, ivith
the sea interyening, and rising from a base of about fifty feet to a
height of rather more than one hnndred. They form a very pic-
turesque object as approached from the north-west.

* Mr. Wood rektes a tradition of a person who in the reign of
Queen Elizabeth had murdered a most beautiful lady in a fit of
jealousy, and took refuge in the desolateness and seclusion of this
islet.— Wood's Account, p. 144,

GRAVEL BOSS. 159

Let us see what further facts of a similar character may
be picked up on the islet. Strung together they may form
a band capacious enough to encircle the truths and bring
it before us bound down within the limits of a reasonable
probability.

We pass to the eastward over hill and dale^ rugged and
barren, and at every ten or dozen yards of our progress
these rounded and scratched foreigners catch the eye.
Sometimes they increase largely in their dimensions, and
become, though not gigantic, yet full-sized boulders.
Near the eastern PUe of Stones which has been- erected on
an eminence of 400 feet above the level of the sea is a very
remarkable deposit of boulders, gravel and sand. It is
about a hundred yards north of the pile, and at twenty-
eight feet lower elevation, but still resting on and covering,
in the shape of an oblong spheroidal boss, a somewhat
raised portion of the day schist which forms the substratum
of the islet.

A good section has been made into the very heart of
this mass (which is about thirteen feet deep and fifty feet
across in the longer, i. e. the north and south axis) for the
purpose of procuring gravel for the neighbouring road,
and exhibits a somewhat irregular yet distinct stratification,
which consists in the lowest part of a deposit of fine sand ;
above that, patches of gravel in sand-; then still higher up,
of gravel and scratched fragments of rock and good-sized
boulders. And the rocks are not any of them such as we
could swear to as belonging to this immediate locality.
There are red and grey syenites, porphyries, granites, grits
and sandstone, either from Cimiberland or the south of
Scotland, but not a fragment, as far as I have hitherto seen,
of Poolvash or Bonaldsway limestone, though there can be
little doubt that the materkls of the hillock have been trans^
ported hither across the limestone area of the Isle of Man.

156 THE ISLE OF MAN.

Did some great wave^ caused by the sudden upheaval of
a mighty mountain-chain from the bosom of the ocean,
sweep across the area of the Irish Channel, and bearing
onwards in its resistle89 course a rocky storm of the tom-
up debris of the strata over which it had passed^ break
upon the eminence of this islet, which stood up an unlucky
reef in its mid-progress ? On such an hypothesis it seems
hard to account for the regularity of the deposit and the ap-
parently quiet manner in which the different materials have
assumed their present position, together with the absence
of the limestone rocks of the immediate neighbourhood.

On the other hand, can we look upon this stratified boss
of boulders, gravel and sand, simply as a rehc of the an-
cient sea-bottom, a kind of upper terrace of drift-gravel,
and aggregated under circumstances similar to those under
which was spread out the platform of which a fragment
has just been noted ne&r the Burrough, and of which an-
other fragment may be noted down there by the sea-shore
of the north of this islet ? Then it seems very strange
that such a mass should have remained on the subse-
quent elevation of the island, just upon this one prominent
spot, and not in the hollows which surround it on almost
all sides. There is for instance, about eighty yards to the
eastward, a deep depression, in which is a turf-bog, whence
a little stream takes its rise. . We may stand in that hol-
low, and singular as it may appear, though we are closely
surrounded by sea on all sides, and the extent of the islet
of the Calf is only 800 superficial acres, not a glimpse of
the salt water can we catch, look which way we will, and
yet in this hollow we can detect no such bed of gravel and
sand, no tokens whatever of an ancient sea-bottom.

The only hypothesis which to my mind seems capable
of being applied with any show of plausibility to the solu-
tion of the problem, is that which I have suggested in my

DILUVIAL ACTION. 157

memoir of the '^ Geology of the Calf of Man/' published in
the Proceedings of the Geological Society of London in
1847*. It is that of a grounded iceberg, or stranded
mass of packed ice, melting and depositing quietly its load,
gathered on far-distant shores, whilst subjected to the
gentle action of a drifting current coming from the E.N.E.,
or nearly magnetic east. And the inference which I have
further drawn from the phsenomenon is, that the sea-level
of that period was relatively with the Isle of Man 400 feet
at least higher than now, i. e, that there has been an eleva-
tion of the whole sea-bottom of this neighbourhood since
the time of this deposit, amounting to at least 400 feet in
perpendicular height.

I would not urge this hypothesis to the exclusion of that
of a diluvial action as having at some former period passed
over the island ; indeed there are other phsenomena else-
where which to me seem capable of being explained only
on this latter supposition ; perhaps the scattered bouldel*s
which we trace even to the highest point on the islet at
BusheFs House are also attributable to such action ; but
what I would simply urge is, that the sweeping of great
waves of translation seems inconsistent with the accumu-
lation of so quietly stratified a deposit as this gravel boss,
on so exposed a point, and that therefore the diluvial action
must have taken place prior to this accumulation, which
we must rather attribute to the deliquescence of loaded ice
in a not very much troubled seaf. The question of the

* See Quarterly Journal of the Geological Society, May Ist, 1847,
p. 179.

t It might perhaps he argued, that the elevation of the Calf Islet
and the great mountain-chain of the island, of which it is evidently
a continuation, took place after the accumulation of the drift-gravel ;
but it was in anticipation of such an argument that I have directed
attention to the circumstance of this drift deposit lying undisturbed

158 THE ISLE OF MAN.

diluvium itself will come before our notice when we ascend
South Barrule and Irey-na-Lhaa^ and track the granite
boulders from their summits to the origin of them.

The panorama from the summit of the gravel boss on
the Calf Islet is of the finest possible character. Looking
northward^ the whole of the southern portion of the Isle of
Man appears spread out as a map for our study. To the
eastward lie the deep indentures of Foolvash Bay and Castle-
town Bay ; the rich corn-lands rising from the water^s edge
and spreading far up into the interior of the country^ and
the differcQt objects which we have noted in our peregrina-
tions now become familiar to us^ dotted here and there
over the fair landscape. To the westward again the scenery
presents a contrast the most complete. Stupendous rocks
pile upon pile stretch far away northwards^ black, frowning
and precipitous. Immediately in front rise the Mull Hills,
and beyond, uplifted as it were each one on the shoulders of
the nearer to us, the eye rests successively on Brada Head,
Ennyn Mooar, Slieau-y-Camaane, Irey-na-Lhaa, and the
majestic South Barrule. The first four of these descend at
once without a rest or break right down from a height of
between 600 and 1200 feet into the western sea, and yet
they cradle at their base the lovely quiet bays of Port Erin
and Fleshwick. And look ! there we catch a far- off glimpse
of the Niarbyl and the opening out of Glen Bushen where
the turbid waters from the Beckwith Mine come pouring
over the pretty waterfall of Glenmeay*. Beyond is Con-

teross the great line of fault passing hence through Port St. Mary
and Strandhall to Athol Bridge. When the Isle of Man was ele*
▼ated out of the Pleistocene sea, the whole area of the Irish sea-
hottom seems to have heen raised with it.

* The Waterfall of Glenmeay (the rich valley, Mea or Meay being
Manx for luxuriant or fertile) is a favourite resort of tourists easily
accessible from Peel ; or it may be taken in the way from Castletown
to Peel by those who adopt the higher mountain road thither ovef

THE IRISH SEA* 159

trary Head, where the great tides coining into the Irish
Channel from the north and south twice each day straggle
for the mastery and twice each day retire with doubtful vic-
tory. The whole scene closes in that direction with the
hills above Peel and Gorrin's Folly mounted upon the sad-
dle of the round-backed Horse*.

On a clear day from the same point we may pick out the
more prominent points of the north-eastern coast of the
Emerdd Isle, the Arklow and the Moume Mountains, and
the high land about Carlingford Bay and Lough Strangford.
Anglesey and the Cambrian and Cumbrian Mountains
present a dim blue outline in the southern and eastern
horizon ; and dotted over the bosom of the great deep are
countless sails, the fair wings of commerce speeding their
flight to the farthest-off regions of earth. WhBst enjoying
such scenes from this spot on a clear sunny day, when all
appears pleasure, peace, and security, — ^the little cloud no
bigger than a man^s hand rising up in the far south-western
horizon, distinct harbinger of the storm and darkness soon
about to cover the ocean and the air, will remind us of the
truthfulness of the metaphor which Gray's bard scratched
out when he sang,—

" Fair laughs the mom and soft the zephyr blows.

While proudly riding o'er the azure realm.
In gallant trim the gilded vessel goes^

Youth on the prow and Pleasure at the helm.
Regardless of the sweeping whirlwind's sway

That, hush'd in grim repose, expects his evening prey."

South Bam4.e. The geologist will he interested in the patches of
drift-gravel by the side of the road between Dalby and Glenmeay,
and the pleistocene series may also well be studied at the mouth of
the glen half a mile below the waterfall.

* The Horse is the name given to the rounded hiU rising south-
ward of Peel Castle.

160 THE ISLE OF MAN.

A far different scene was once witnessed from this spot
(so says the legendary history of this isle) by a grim Nor*
wegian hunter^ which^ as it has to do with the name of the
little islet lying down there in the Race or Sound of the
Calf, we may as well relate as the conclusion of this chapter^
pretty nearly as Waldron has given it in his strange record*:

^' In the days of Olave Godredson there resided in Man
a great Norman baron named Kitter, who was so fond of
the chase that he extirpated all the bisons and elks with
which the island abounded at the time of his arrival, to the
utter dismay of the people, who dreading that he might
likewise deprive them of their cattle and even of their purrsf
in the mountains, had recourse to witchcraft to prevent
such a disaster. When this Nimrod of the north had de-
stroyed all the wild animals of the chase in Man, he one day
extended his havoc to the red deer of the Calf, leaving at
his castle on the brow of Barrule only the cook, whose name
was Eaoch, (which signifies a person who can cry loud,) to
dress the provisions intended for his dinner. Eaoch hap-
pened to fall asleep at his work in the kitchen ; the famous
witch-wife Ada caused the fat accumulated at the lee-side
of the boiling pot to bubble over into the fire, which set the
house in a blaze. The astonished cook immediately exerted
his characteristic powers to such an extent that he alarmed
the hunters in the Calf, a distance of nearly ten miles. Kit-
ter hearing the cries of his cook and seeing his castle in
flames made to the beach with all possible speed, and em-
barked in a small currachj for Man, accompanied by nearly

* Waldron, page 185. See also Train's History of the Isle of
Man, vol. ii. p. 177.

t A wild species of swine at one time common in the mountain
districts,

:|: The Currach or Coracle was a kind of light boat of the Ancient
Britons formed of a slender framework of timber connected by short

THE SWORD MACABUIN. 161

all his attendants. When about half-way the frail bark
struck on a rock (which from that circumstance has since
been called Kitterland) and all on board perished.

" The fate of the great baron and the destruction of his
followers caused the surviving Norwegians to believe that'
Eaoch the cook was in league with the witches of the island
to extirpate the Norwegians then in Man, and on this charge
he was brought to trial and sentenced to suffer death. The
unfortunate cook heard his doom pronounced with great
composure, but claimed the privilege, at that time allowed
to criminals in Norway, of choosing the place and manner
of passing from time into eternity. This was readily grant-
ed by the king. ^ Then,^ said the cook with a loud voice, ' I
wish my head to be laid across one of your majesty^s legs
and there cut off by your majesty's sword Macabuin, which
was made by Loan Maclibhuin, the dark smith of Dron-
theim.'

" It being generally known that the king's scimitar could
sever even a mountain of granite, if brought into immediate
contact with its edge, it was the wish of every one present
that he would not comply with the subtle artifice of such
a low varlet as Eaoch the cook ; but his majesty would not
retract the permission so recently given, and therefore gave
orders that the execution should take place in the manner
desired.

^'Although the unflinching integrity of Olave was admired
by his subjects, they sympathized deeply for the personal
injury to which he exposed himself rather than deviate
from the path of rectitude. But Ada, the witch, was at
hand; she ordered toads' skins, twigs of the rowan-tree,

pieces of wood and covered with hides. They were sometimes so small
as not to consume more than three hides in their manufacture. It
was in such a hoat that St. Maughold was cast ashore at the head
which bears his name.

162 THE ISLE OF MAN.

and adders' eggs^ each to the number of nine times nine^
to be placed between the king's leg and the cook's head,
to which he assented.

"All these things being properly adjusted, the great
sword Macabuin, made by Maclibhuin, the dark smith of
Drontheim, was lifted with the greatest caution by one of
the king's most trusty servants and laid gently on the neck
of the cook ; but ere its downward course could be stayed,
it severed the head from the body of Eaoch, and cut all
the preventives asunder except the last, thereby saving the
king's leg from harm. When the dark smith of Drontheim
heard of the stratagem submitted to by Olave to thwart
the efficacy of the sword Macabuin, he was so highly
offended that he despatched his hammerman, Hiallus-nan«
urd, who had only one leg, having lost the other when
assisting in making that great sword, to the Castle of Feel
to challenge king Olave or any of his people to walk with
him to Drontheim. It was accounted very dishonourable
in those days to refuse a challenge, particularly if connected
with a point of honour. Olave, in mere compliance with
this rule, accepted the challenge, and set out to walk against
the one-legged traveller from the Isle of Man to the smithy
of Loan Maclibhuin in Drontheim. * They walked o'er
the land and sailed o'er the sea,' and so equal was the
match that when within sight of the smithy, Hiallus-nan-
urd, who was first, called to Loan Maclibhuin to open the
door, and Olave called out to shut it. At that instant,
pushing past him of the one leg, the king entered the smithy ,
first, to the evident discomfiture of the swarthy smith and
his assistant. To show that he was not in the least
fatigued, Olave lifted a large forge-hammer, and under
pretence of assisting the smith, struck the anvil with such
force that he clave it not only from top to bottom, but also
the block upon which it rested. Emergaid, the daughter

EMER6AID. 163

of Loan, seeing Olave perform such manly prowess, feU
so deeply in love with him, that during the time her father
was replacing the block and the anvil, she found an oppor-
tunity of informing him that her father was only replacing
the studdy to finish a sword he was making, and that he
had decoyed him to that place for the purpose of destruc-
tion, as it had been prophesied that the sword would be
tempered in royal blood, and in revenge for the afiront of
the cook^s death by the sword Macabuin. ' Is not your
father the seventh son of old Windy Cap, King of Norway?'
said Olave. ' He is,' replied Emergaid, as her father en-
tered the smithy. ' Then,' cried the king of Man, as he
drew the red steel from the fire, 'the prophecy must be
fulfilled.' Emergaid was unable to stay his uplifted hand
till he quenched the sword in the blood of her father and
afterwards pierced the heart of the one-legged hammer-
man, whom he knew was in the plot of taking his life."

The sequel of the legend is that Olave married the fair
Emergaid, and from that marriage descended a long line of
kings of Man down to Magnus, the last of the race of God-
dard Crovan.

164 THE ISLE OF MAN.

CHAPTER XII.

Port Erin. — St. Catherine's Well. — Brada Head and Copper Mine.
— ^View from Grammah. — Fairy Hill, Fleshwick Bay. — Manx pea-
santry, cabins, carranes, and Sunday blankets. — Origin of the names
Lezayre and Arbory. — ^The Friary. — Upper limit of the boulder-
clay.— Grenaby.— St. Mark's.— The Black Fort and Sir Walter
Scott. — Granite blocks and Goddard Crovan's Stone. — Structure
of granite. — Bubble of South Barrule. — ^Ascent of the mountain.
— Evidence of great cataclysmal action. — Strike of parallel moun-
tain-chains. — Mines and Minerals. — SlieauwhaUin. — ^Witchcraft.
— Tynwald Mount. — ^Ancient ceremonies.

Port Erin (or as it is sometimes called, Port Iron) presents
a genuine specimen of a Manx fishing village. Old herring-
nets spread upon the thatch of cottages, and big stones *
tied at each corner to keep all safe down ; semi-putrid fish
drying in the sun against the walls; pigs and poultry
roaming about and picking up refuse ; the heads and en-
trails of hake and congers ; heaps of the shells of the
limpet, periwinkle, scollop, and whelk ; old inverted boats
hauled up and ranged along the walls ; lobster-pots strewed
about on the shore ; and rumpy cats basking in the sun.

Tis a splendid beach, and the prettiest bay in the island !
If it were on the southern coast of England, it would beyond
all doubt become a favourite watering-place. A Uttle of
the public money would make it a valuable haven, and a

* Generally speaking the thatch is tied down by sugganyn (straw
ropes) made fast to pieces of stone (called hwhid suggane) which jut
out from the walls, though not unfrequently (almost always in the
case of hay and straw stacks) the ropes are fastened to large stones
which hang down loose on every side. See the frontispiece view of
King William's College from the Creggins.

GRAMMAR. 165

great accommodation to the herring fleet when lying oflF
the western coast of Man. Her Majesty^s mail has been
landed here when it could not be landed in Douglas ; but
there is no great landed proprietor resident on the spot,
no one to plead the claims of the poor fishermen, and so,
like Derbyhaven, with great capabilities it lies neglected
and almost useless*.

How magnificently does Brada Head rise up, shutting in
the northern angle of this horse-shoe bay ! The mines of
copper there, which at the beginning of the seventeenth cen-
tury seem to have been wrought to some extent, have latterly
been almost abandoned. The only copper at present raised
on the island seems to be at Laxey, where it is worked along
with the lead and zinc and afterwards separated by hand.
The mouth of the mine is with difficulty accessible when
the tide is out.

In proceeding across from Port Erin to Fleshwick Bay on
foot we cross the little hill Grammah, from which a very
fine view is presented. It is probably the only point at so
low an elevation where both the east and west side of the
island can be seen at the same time. We catch a view of
Dalby Point near Peel, and of Castletown and its neigh-
bourhood, and turning round south-westward we have a fine
view of the Calf Islet and the Stack. Just in the hollow
here on the northern side of the hill, and in the meadows
at the west end of Bushen parish church, there is a magni-
ficent tumulust, known by the name of Cronk-na-mooar

* St. Catherine's Well gushes out of the sand by the sea-shore.
In the old maps of the island we find mention made of St. Cathe-
rine's Chapel, but it has disappeared along with the Chapel at Port
St. Mary, and that which once existed in this parish at Balla-keill-
Moirey (the place of Mary's Cell or Chapel), as the name plainly in-
dicates.

t It is 450 feet in circumference and 40 feet in height, and sur-
rounded by a ditch.

166 THE ISLE OF MAN.

and Fairy Hill. In so many instances * it has been deter-
mined by actual examination that these barrows or elevated
mounds of earthy as well as the cromlechs and the so-called
druidical circles^ are places of sepulture^ that it seems
useless to note the conjectures which have been hazarded
by different persons as to the original intention of this
camedd in the valley here at our feet.

It may be rememberedf that Reginald^ son of Olave the
Black, was slain here in 1249 by the knight Ivar ; as we
have however the record of his interment in the church of
St. Mary of Bushen^ this is evidently not his mausoleum.
Nor is it certain that any battle took place on that occasion
between the followers of Reginald or Ivar, otherwise we
might presume that it covers their remains. It is probably
of a very much earlier date than the thirteenth century.

In descending from our station on Grammah towards
the parish church, some gravel-pits on the road-side give a
good insight into the structure of the drift-gravel platform,
and it is well to examine it at this point in immediate con-
nexion with the underlying boulder-clay, which is very
finely developed in the cliffs at the head of Port-Erin Bay.
The scooping-out of the tertiary gravels at the period of
the elevation of the land may be well studied in this im-
mediate neighbourhood.

* See the Archieological Journal, vol. i. p. 142, and vol. iii. p. 223.
Chaloner, in his Account of the Isle of Man, writes thus : " Whilst I
remained on the island I caused one of those round hills to be opened,
in which were found fourteen rotten urns or earthen pots placed with
their mouths downwards, and one more neatly than the rest in a bed of
fine white sand containing nothing but a few brittle bones, (as having
passed the fire,) no ashes left discernible : hereabouts are divers of
these hills to be seen; but in other parts of the isle few and di-
spersedly ; some of these being environed with great stones picked
endways in the earth."— Chaloner's Account, p. 10.

t See page 101 supra.

FLESHWICK BAY. 167

An excursion hence into Fleshwick Bay will never be
regretted by any true lover of the wild and stupendous in
Nature's beauties^ though the road for carriages is none of
the best. Brada and Ennyn M oar^ sinking down precipi-
tously into the western sea with bluff and frowning look*,
. were at one time quite separated by a narrow channel cor-
responding with the Kitterland Strait, through which,
during the pleistocene period, the sea continually flowed.
Now theyare connected by the upheaved tertiary sea-bottom.
A sufficient inroad has however been made in these gravel
and clay beds to form a snug little creek tolerably secure
from all winds but the north-west for only very small fish-
ing craft.

I have been in few places where a sense of solitude rested
more powerfully upon me than here. It has often put me
in mind of some of the more sequestered valleys in Wales,
Cumberland, or the Peak of Derbyshire, as I have watched
the tiny sheep f perched goat-like upon points of rock, or
dashing headlong! in their fright at the stranger adown a
rugged chasm, the tinkling of the bell and their shrill
bleat echoing most wildly from mountain to mountain.
Here will be heard, I verily believe, more Manx than in
any other part of the Sheading, and the simple habits of
the natives can scarcely be studied in a better locality than

* Three wiaten ago a fine vessel, the ' Wilhelmina ' of Glas^w,
bound for Leghorn, was dashed to fri^ments against these adamant-
ine precipices, and every being on board of her perished. It was
utterly impossible to render any help from the shore, though attempts
were made by letting down ropes from the crags above.

t Quarters of mutton may frequ^tly be had not weighing more
than 8 lbs.

X Instead of walls and hedges, in the Isle of Man the fields are
mostly divided by banks of earth, on the top of which gorse is sown,
and forms a tolerable fence. To prevent the cattle, horses, cows and
sheep from chmbing over, the hind and fore legs of the animal are
fastened together by a rope or straw band. This is called lanketting.

168 THE ISLE OF MAN.

this. Here, if anywhere, we may expect to meet with
carranes* instead of shoes, Sunday-blankets f for cloaks,
bundles of gorse for gates and doors, loaghtyn j: sheep and
relics of the ancient race of purrs, and here the true
samples of Southside Manx cabins ; and their inmates are
(generally speaking) sufficiently well-oflF not to be solicitous
about anything better. They enter most fully into the
spirit of the adage, '^ Man wants but httle, nor that little
long.^^ They are certainly an independent lace, which
may seem to some remarkable when they consider the
many masters they have had at diflFerent times, and the
frequency with which the island has changed hands. I am
however myself inclined to attribute much to the absence
of a poor-law on the island, and to the operation of the
insular law (to which they are very strongly attached),
which gives power to the wife over a considerable moiety
of the husband's goods, which she can settle away inde-
pendent of his wishes or interests. An unruly son whom
his father would cut short may thus fall back securely
upon the more tender feelings of his mother. It has
however frequently kept family property together, and

* The carrane is made by placing the foot in a raw neat's hide,
cutting out a convenient poition, which is then drawn up over the
foot and laced with a thong. The hair is outside. Old rags are
sometimes placed under the sole of the foot, or portions of pitched
sheepskin, to prevent the wet coming through.

t In the Lex Scripta of the Isle of Man it is given for law that
the Sunday-blanket (an equivalent of the Scotch tartan) shall de-
scend as an heir-loom in the female line direct. It is to this that
Camden alludes when he says that *' the women of the island, when-
ever they go out of doors, did clothe themselves in a winding-sheet
to keep them mindful of their mortality." — Mr. Quayle's MS. quoted
above.

X Loaghtyn or Lugh-dhoan (luga, mouse, and dhoan, brown) is
the name given to a pecuhar breed of sheep having a dirty brown
fleece, which was once common on the island, but has almost dis-
appeared. «

KIEK ARBORY. 169

Kberated estates which the dissipation of the father would
have impoverished. Hence the affection of the islanders
for this ancient law.

It would be easy^ on foot or horseback^ to ascend the
mountain-range from Fleshwick Bay and to take the bridle-
road over in that direction to Peel ; but it suits us better to
return towards Castletown by the inland road for a couple
of miles, and then to turn up the hill-side by the road to
Grenaby, and so into the Peel road ifrom Castletown. We
pass on our way Christ's Rushen parish church, Colby
glen and Arbory church, and turn oflF at the Friary, an
ancient Cistercian cell in connection with the Abbey of
Bushen. It is amusing to note sometimes the strange
reason assigned for the names of places; thus Chaloner
tells us* Kirk Christ's Rushen is so called from ^' being
built on the side of a rushy bog;'' Kirk Arbory, because
formerly surrounded with trees arbour-like, and Kirk
Christ's Lezayre because it is ''placed in a sharp air."
For my own part I am inclined to give the following de-
rivation of the names. The parish churches of Christ's
Rushen and Lezayre are dedicated in honour of the Holy
Trinity, and it may not be easy to determine why the
name of the second person in particular has been applied
to them. They stand respectively in the sheadings of
Rushen and Ayre. We have before t noted the origin of
the name Rushen, in Sf. Russin, a fellow-labourer of St.
Columba, and I know no reason why Lezayre should not
be derived from the Manx fe«A, towards or belonging to,
and Ayre, the name of the sheading J. Again, if we look

♦ Chaloner's account, page 6. t Page 58, supra,

X The only other two parishes on the island not called hy the

name of the patron Saint are Ballangh and Jurhy, and the reason

plainly is to avoid the confusion of two St. Mary's and two St.

Patrick's on the isle. There was the abbey church of St. Mary of

170 THE ISLE OF MAN.

at the old map of the island*^ which Chaloner himself
has given in his book^ we find Kirk Arbory written Kirk
Kerebrey. Now we know that St. Cairbre^ a disciple of
St. Patrick^ attained to considerable celebrity towards the
close of the fifth century^ and though Sacheverell states^
seemingly on his own authority^ that the patron saint of
Kirk Arbory is St. Columba^ I am much more disposed to
give that honour to his senior St. Cairbre^ and to conclude
that^ just as Kirk Conchan has been corrupted into Kirk
Onchan^ so Kirk Cairbre has easily slidden into Kirk
Arbory.

We ascend the mountain-side by the road which turns
up between Parville and the Friary f and passes by Balla
Clague. The road traces along the upper limit of the
boulder clay, and we begin to be struck with the number
of large granite blocks which rest upon the surface ; they
have largely afibrded materials for building, but we stiU
find them in the banks on each side of the road, and on
the top of the hill before we descend toward Grenaby there
is an accumulation of them in the corner of a farmyard.

The view of the southern basin of the island from this
point is particularly fine. We are sufficiently elevated to
have the whole spread out as a map before our eyes, and
to comprehend it almost at a glance, and at the same time
we are sufficiently near to dwell upon and to note dis-
tinctly any object about which we are specially interested.

Rushen, and so the other St. Mary was called Ballaugh or Balla-
lough (the place of the lake). There was St. Patrick of the Peel,
and so the other St. Patrick was called Jurhy, from the isle of Jurby
in which the church stood. * See plate IV.

t A reUc of the ancient building may be remarked in an old bam,
whose windows and doorway have somewhat of an ecclesiastical
character : all else has disappeared. Of the old mill nothing now re-
mains but the sluice. It was anciently called Bemaken, Bimaken
and Brimaken.

THE BLACK FORT. 171

Descending to Grenaby we come upon a well-wooded
valley, through which the Silverburn has cut its way, and
the old mill and the contiguous bridge form nice subjeets
for the sketch-book. The road ascending towards Barrule
has been cut through a mass of the boulder clay, and pre-
sents a convenient section for its study. There is a road
leading hence direct across the country for St. Mark^s, but
it is hardly practicable for vehicles. The more advisable
route is to continue on the road which runs on the brow of
the hill skirting the western side of the valley of the Silver-
bum, till we get into the Peel road near Ballahot. Here
again, just before we descend to Athol bridge, we note, at
the point where the road-cutting exposes the old red con-
glomerate resting on the upturned and contorted schists,
a fine accumulation of granitic blocks, and there is, as we
shall see, the Silverburn valley interposed between them
and their origin.

After proceeding a couple of miles on the Peel road, we
may if we choose turn off on the right hand by a good road
leading to St. Mark's, and visit the spot which Sir Walter
Scott has rendered famous as the Black Fort in ' Peveril
of the Peak'*. Hardly a trace now remains of the old
Danish rampart ; but the field where it stood (a portion
of glebe which the present chaplain of St. Mark's has re-
claimed out of a dreary waste) has been christened after
the " Great Unknown," whose description of the locality
is both highly picturesque and faithful f. It is not far

* Vol. i. p. 264, edition 1822.

f The famous granite boulder weighing between twenty and thirty

tons, known by the name of Goddard-Crovan's stone, stood close by.

It was broken up by the owner of the field about twenty years since :

I some fragments of it are built into the parsonage. The old legend

I of the stone is, that Goddard Hved with his termagant wife in a great

I castle on the top of Barrule. Unable to endure the violence of her

tongue, he turned her unceremoniously out of doors ; after descend-

172 THX ISUB or MAN.

from St. Mark's ehapd on the western side hard by the
little purling brook^ which rising in the granitic boss of
South Barrule, and taking a southerly course^ meets the
Silverbum a little above the Crossag bridge at Ballasalla.
The rtream is didced up with the blocks of granite, and
they are accumulated against every salient angle in the
▼alley, and spread out in every little alluvial flat for a con-
siderable distance.

It is very plain that the accumulation of granite blocks
in this direction is oinng to a very diflerent cause to that
which has lodged them in the valley of the Silverbum at
Grenaby, and perched them on every eminence along the
mountain-range both on the eastern and (as we shall see)
the western sides of it, and even on the very summits of
South Barrule and Irey-na-Lhaa. We must certainly mark
here the different effects of alluvial and diluvial action.-
But we must keep in mind also the fact, which the gravel
boss on the Calf of Man has tended to establish, that the
sea-level at one point in the period of the boulder forma-
tion, was at least 400 feet higher relatively with the land
in this neighbourhood than at present. It would therefore
almost wash the base of this granitic boss on South Barrole.
It was a glacial period, one in which the carrying power
of ice was much brought into play, and therefore the
granite blocks which the little biuns, taking their rise in
that eminence, brought down to the sea were frozen into
shore-ice, drifted off a mile or two by the currents along
the coast and stranded here and there on the lower emi-
nence where they accumulated on the deliquescence of
the ice. We may in this way account for their occurrence

ing the mountain some distance, imagining herself out of his reach,
she turned round and hegan to rate him so soundly at the full pitch
of her Yoice, that in a rage he seized on this huge granite boulder,
and hurling it with all his might killed her on the spot.

OBANITIC BUBBLES. 173

over the greater part of the southern basin of the island
without having recourse to any violent catacljsmal action,
since when we come to examine the matter, we find that
all the points of the occurrence of these blocks which lie
to the east and south of the granitic boss are at a hwer
level than it; but we must plainly lodk to some other
cause to explain their occurrence on the western and
south-western side of the boss at a much greater elevation.

Now let us examine this great ellipsoidal granitic bubble.
It rises up in a fine dome, around the base of which mantle
a series of metamorphosed rocks, gneiss and mica^schisfi^,
passing gradually into the ordinary clay-schist of the
island. Great masses of white quartz rock lie strewed
about on the surface, and have been carried along with the
granite blocks a great distance to the south-westwardf*
It presents a complete wiUemess of bloeksj dreary and
desolate and black with heather ; the very blades of coarsest
grass seem to struggle hard upon it for a miserable exist-
ence; here and there a swampy hollow has gathered
together a foot or two of peat, where the cotton-grass
{Eriophorum polystachion) finds a wretched habitat.

Baron Yon Buch, in his description of the Brocken, in a
paper read before the Berlin Academy of Science, (De-
cember 15, 1842,) has given us a good insight into the
structure of these granitic bubbles. The beautiful bell-
shaped form of that mountain, as presented to persons ap-
proaching it from Elbingerode by way of Schierke, is par-
ticularly striking. There is an exqidsite repose in the
landscape which rests upon its parabolic surface, of which
the outline is so distinct, that a small cottage on the top,
which would hardly be noted on other mountains, stands

* I have, from the north side of this boss near the Foxdale mines,
specimens of mica-schist which contain imperfect garnets.

t A dyke of white quartz cuts through the eastern side of the
boss from north to south.

174 THE ISLE OF MAN.

out prominently as a small wart. We might at a distance
suppose it smooth and polished^ but an actual approach
exhibits it as covered with innumerable blocks^ heaped on
each other without any appearance of regularity.

Now these two very general phsenomena^ the regularly
circular form of granitic mountains^ and the breaking up
of the surface into miUions of blocks^ seem to depend on
one another in some relation. Baron Yon Buch suggests
that granite mountains are lifted up in a certain plastic
condition^ not as lava in a perfectly fluid state filling up
fissures^ but in thick ellipsoidal bubbles^ by forces acting
from beneath ; in the ultimate cooling and contraction of
the upper dome-shaped surface^ it will necessarily break up
into a vast number of blocks^ forming what have not been
unaptly termed " seas of rocks.'' At the same time the
granite arranges itself in cooling into large concentric
layers, gradually diminishing in size, until at last the inner-
most nucleus appears cylindrical, as may be seen in bosses
of small extent, and this remarkable concentric arrange-
ment may very readily be mistaken for stratification.

The granite of South Barrole* is a true granite, consist-
ing of flakes of mica, and small crystals of pinky-white
quartz in a matrix of white felspar, the felspar greatly
predominating. A somewhat coarse and not very hard
rock is the result, of which the general appearance when
wrought is not unlike some of the coarse specimens which
I have seen of millstone-grit. Till lately it has only been
used in buildings in its rough state, occasionally for gate-
posts and farm-rollers, but within the last year a company
has been formed, who have commenced working a quarry f

* The surface of thi3 granitic bubble is about a mile long, by three
quarters of a mile wide.

t It has been wrought into excellent millstones, and the new
church of St. John near the Tynwald hill is being erected wholly of
gi^&uite from this quarry.

AGE OF THE GRANITE. 175

for its export in a wrought condition. It has a slight
tendency to decompose in concentric layers, which is pro-
bably due to the predominance of felspar ; but if care be
taken in reference to this, in the arrangement of the blocks
in building, there is no doubt, from the evidence afforded
by old cottages and bams on the island, that it will be
found a very durable material.

Of the age of this granitic bubble I can only offer the
negative evidence, of its not having appeared at the sur-
face at the period of the old red conglomerate, from the
absence of any boulders of it in that formation in all re-
searches hitherto on the island. But these boulders do
appear in the boulder-clay formation. Either then its
elevation took place in the interval between the carboni-
ferous epoch and that of the pleistocene tertiary beds ; or,
if it were anterior to the carboniferous epoch, it has been
since exhibited on the surface in consequence of that ex-
tensive denudation, of which we have other clear evidence
as having passed over the island*. I am inclined to this
latter view, though still supposing a second elevation of the
granitic mass, during which were injected into the cracks
and fissures then formed those elvans or granitic veinst
which we find penetrating far into the schists round about
this boss, three of which are cut through in the Foxdale
minej:.

The whole of this district forms a grand mining country,

* See the last chapter.

t See Map I., section across the island.

X The granite of the veins is much finer than of the great mass
of the boss. I have specimens from an adit which passes under the
Peel road, which seem to consist almost entirely of felspar, with '
some large crystals of schorl. The richness of the mineral-veins
increases as they approach the granitic mass ; and at the contact, I
have been informed, the quantity of silver in the lead-ore was found
to average 108 ounces per ton.

176 THE ISLE OF MAN.

and has been opened at several points along a line nmning
E.N.E. and W.S.W. (which is the general strike of the
productive veins) between Glen Bushen and EUersley in
Maroun parish. The Beckwith mine in Glen Bushen, the
Cronk Vane (white hill) mine on the north-eastern side
of South Barrule, and the Foxdale mines (including
under this latter term the Comelly or Jones* vein), be-
long to one company, who hold them on lease from the
Crown. The Mona mine at Ellersley is in the Bishop's
barony, and is held from him on lease by a different com-
pany.

llie distribution of the mineral veins of the common
sulphuret of galena (lead), in this neighbourhood is some-
what singular, approaching rather to that of mountain-
limestone districts than of Silurian countries. The veins
often swell out into large sops, which sometimes terminate
again in serines or small rake-veins, spreading out from
one great trunk. There is therefore necessarily great un-
certainty aud speculation in the working. The miner
comes suddenly upon a vast body of ore^ of which he had
previously little or no indication ; in the midst of his work,
whilst following up, as he imagines, a continuous pipe-vein
from fifteen to twenty feet in widths as suddenly it seems
to die out, and without the least warning he finds his
mine exhausted and his works stopped^.

The ascent to the summit of South Barrole is by no
means difficult. There is a very fair road leading over the
pass between that mountain and Irey-na-Lhaa, which com-
municates with Colby, Arbory and Grenaby, and with the
Peel road from Castletown near the sixth milestone on the
western edge of the granitic boss. In following the road
from this latter point, we shall be tracing the course along

* For an account of the mines in the Isle of Man, see Appendii^^
Note K.

I 41

GRANITE BOULDERS. 177

which the blocks of granite from the boss have been driven^
and we shall find them diminishing in number and size
the further we proceed. The height of the pass above the
granitic boss is about 200 feet^ and the granite boulders
haye been driven over it to the western side of the moun-
tain-range^ and occur scattered at wide intervals over a
large extent of country, and may be met with in the bed
of the Glemneay river, into which they have been earned
by the streamlets which flow into the vale of Glenrushen.
We catch them here and there running along the ridge
which unites Irey-na-Lhaa with South Barrule, and I have
picked up a few of them the size oi a good cannon-ball
quite on the top of Irey-na-Lhaa> a height of 1445 feet
above the sea, and near 700 feet above the top of the
granitic bosa^. But the most remarkable circumstance is,
that in ascending from the paiss to the summit of South
Barrule we fall in with three or four of considerable size,
and there is one which I have noted within sixty feet of
the top of the mountain, and quite on the western side of
it, certainly not less than two tons weight. The summit
of South Barrule is in a direct line between this granite
boulder and the granitic boss whence it has come, and the
difference of height is 788 feet. But there is a sUght
depression between the granite boss and the ultimate rise
of the mountain, across which the boulder must have
been transported, viz. that in which the sixth milestone
stands^ and this> milestone is distant about a mile and a

I have taken the heights as given hy Dr. Berger, in his paper
in the first volume of the Transactions of the Geologieal Society of
London, as ascertained hy harometrical observations. According to
this measurement (which 1 beUeve very near the truth) South Bar-
rule is 1545 feet, Irey-na-Lhaa, 1445 feet, the granitic boss (which
he calls Dun-how), 757 feet, the pass between South Barrule and
Irey-na-Lhaa, 983 feet, the sixth milestone on the Peel road
from Castletown, 692 feet above the mean sea-level.

178 THE ISLE OV MAN.

half from the top of the mountain. Hence we have a rise
of 853 feet in a mile and a half up which the granite
boulder ascended to the top of South Barrule^ and then
slid down some sixty feet on the other side. Had there
been but one boulder, we might perhaps have concluded
that it had been carried thither for some purpose by
human agency, but the circumstance of there being so
many scattered at random all over the surface of the moun-
tain precludes such a supposition.

Here then, it seems to me, we have the evidence of some
great diluvial action, an indication of enormous waves with
great carrying power sweeping over the surface of the
island, and breaking upon the mountain summits. How
far the transport of these granite boulders may have been
aided by their being frozen (perhaps) into masses of ice,
must remain a mere speculation ; but I do not see how it
is possible, with any conditions of relative sea-level, to
account for the phaenomena here presented to us by any
known effects of ice alone, and without taking into the
reckoning the agency of some great cataclysm or series of
cataclysms. Here if anywhere certainly we must have
recourse to the theory of great waves of translation pro-
posed for our acceptance by the gifted author of the
Silurian System.

The scene from the summit of South Barrule is of a
most magnificent character, not presenting the wildness
and vastness of the Cumberland, Welsh or North British
mountains, but perhaps a greater variety. England,
Scotland, Ireland and Wales, surrounding the blue ocean,
in which like some monster ship the Isle of Man seems to
float, are caught sight of on a clear day from as it were
one of the mast-heads of the vessel. The importance of
this look-out is seen by the selection of the spot in the
' Trigonometrical Survey ^ for connecting the triangulation

MOUNTATN RANGE. 179

of Ireland with Great Britain. All the more notable points,
both on the 'coasts of the Irish Sea and for a considerable
distance inland, come within the uninterrupted sweep of
our instruments, if we except the neighbourhood of Kirk-
cudbright in the south of Scotland, which is hid by the
intervening loftier eminences of Sneafell and North Barrule
in the north of the Isle of Man.

How easy is it on a bright summer day, when seated
beneath the pUe of stones which crowns the summit of the
mountain, to enter into the feelings of the noble Earl of
Derby, where writing to his son Charles*, he says, ^'When
I go on the mount you call Barrule, and but turning me
round can see England, Scotland, Ireland and Wales, I
think shame, so fruitlessly to see so many kingdoms at
once (which no place, I think, in any nation that we know
under heaven can afford such a prospect of), and to have so
little profit by them V'

The geologist could hardly desire a better point for ob-
taining a bird^s-eye view of the arrangement of the insular
mountain-chain, and the relation it bears to the coast line
and the tertiary formation of the lowlands. He finds
himself here clearly upon a saddle whose axis runs E.N.E.,
with the beds of dark glossy schist dipping off towards
Castletown on the one side and Peel on the other ; at the
same time there are some traces on the southern side of
the mountain of a fault in the same direction as this axis,
as if in the upheaval the saddle had cracked on that side,
and permitted the N.N.W. portion to be somewhat more
elevated than the other.

This same ridge or saddle is continued in a direction
W.S.W. to the summit of Irey-na-Lhaa, where it termi-
nates abruptly. It seems to die away more gradually

* In 1643. See Peck's Desiderata Curiosa, vol. ii. p. 438.

180 THE ISLE OV MAN.

towards the E.N.E.J passing over the granitie bubble on
Dunhow^ and sinking down into the lower hills of Maroi^i
parish*.

Parallel to this ridge we have that which ought pro-
perly to be called the great central axia passing through
Sheauwhallint and North Barrule as most prominent ex-
treme points^ and including Sneafell the highest mountain
of the island and Greebah 1478 feet high. There is again
another secondary range to the north-west of, and parallel
to, this, containing some prominent poi;nt8, in wkich we
may include Bock Mount near Lhargydhoo, Sartdj:,
Slieauny&aughane, FeHer and Mount Karrin.

Between these ranges are very deep synclinal depres-
sions, which form the drainage of the country, as indicated
by several of the rivers or their main branches. Other
valleys are thrown off at right-angles, and along these ge-
nerally speaking the gathered waters find their outlet to
the sea.

On the summit of South Barrule there are indications
of ancient fortifications, inclosing an iiregul^ area of 22,000
square yards, the thickness of the base of a wall on the
northern side being upwards of nine yards. When we call
to mind that the ancient name of this mountain was War-
field or Warfell, and that on the invasion of the island by
Bichard de Mandeville§^ the Manx retreated towards this

* Strictly speaking, Gairaghan and Bein-y-phot in the northern
district are the continuation of this axis; the former is 1520 feet.
And the latter 1 750 feet, high.

t SHeauwhaUin, 978; North Barrule, 1850 feet; Sneafell, 2004
feet. The meaning of SUeauwhallin is Whelp's Mountain {Slieau
Mountain and QualUan Whelp). Barrule is generally derived from
baare top, and ooyl an apple. Perhaps it is baare-rouail, wander-
ing or ramhling point ; Wild Mountain.

X Sartel, 1560 feet.

i See Chap. VIII. supra p. 104.

9UBAUWHALLIN. 181

point as their natural stronghold^ we shall perhaps be
brought to the conclusion that at one time this was a mili-
tary station of considerable importance*.

We return into the Peel roadj and deseeipbd towards St.
John's YaUey^ following the course of a streamlet which
talj;e8 its rise in the turfy ground near the sixth milestone.
It has cut its way in one part along the line of junction of
the granite and the schists^ and we see the two so closely
dovetailed into each other, that the granite has the appear-
ance at one or two points of being an overlying formation.
The metamorphism of the incorporated schists is well worth
study. The shaft of a mine has been sunk upon their
junction, and from a vein running nearly north and south
some valuable ore is at present being obtained out of the
granite.

A little lower down by the road-side near Hamilton
bridge is a very pretty waterfall, which in rainy weather
pours down a full torrent some thirty feet over a ledge of
clay-schist into a wooded hollow. Hence the valley down-
wards is of a very fine character, and becomes more and
more impressive as we descend. It is refreshing after the
desolate, treeless wildness of the granite district, to look
upon such a rich combination of wood, water and rock,
valley and fell, which here presents itself before us.

SUeauwhallin on our left-hand rises precipitately, on our
right Kenna cultivated to the top ; immediately in front a
low alluvial valley extends athwart the landscape, which is
backed by the magnificent Grebahf^ rising up dim and

* We read in Chaloner the following statement: — ''Mananan
Mac-Bar^ a pagan and necromancer, took of the people no other
acknowledgement for their land but the bearing of Rushes to cer-
tam places called Warrefield and Mame on Midsummer even." —
See Description, p. 9.

t Sometimes oiUed Greebey and Kreevey.

182 THE ISLE OV MAK.

gray with its two summits at points north and south from
each other^ the former to a height of 1478 feet^ and the
latter 1355. But as we descend further stilly our atten-
tion is arrested by^ and rests exclusively on^ Slieauwhallin^
and we shudder as we look at its steep northern aspect^
running up at an angle of 45^^ and call to mind the pur-
poses to which in former days superstition devoted it.

We may have read the severe statutes enacted in the
fifteenth and sixteenth centuries against witchcraft^ both
in England and Scotland^ under which multitudes of both
sexes perished^ and it may surprise us to learn that they
have been repealed only vdthin the last century and a
quarter. But in an island like that of Man^ where the
wind howls over heathery wilds^ the lightning plays upon
the summit of cloud-capped mountains^ the thunder-peal
rolls along dark and deep valleys^ and is re-echoed against
an iron-bound coast^ mingling with the roar of the stormy
billow in sea-worn caves and fearfully dismal chasms^ we
need feel no surprise that in such an island persons should
be found seeking gain by practising on the superstitious
and awestruck feelings of the ignorant^ or that laws should
be enacted to suppress if possible such dark practices. Yet
there was a classical refinement in the cruelty of these laws^
and the manner of their execution. That dank turfy
hollow there at the foot of Greebah was once a wide-spread-
ing lake which glassed the deep shadows of- the surround-
ing mountains. It then had a name indicative of its cha-
racter^ Curragh-glmSy the ^' Gray-bog.^' Many such pools
in very ancient days seem to have existed round about here
in the valley, scooped out of the great drift gravel platform
which spreads out at a level of 125 feet above the sea.
They have been gradually filled up by the growth of peat
beds, but in the marl beneath the peat have been discovered
numerous remains of the antlers and other portions of the

THE TYNWALD MOUNT. 188

skeleton of the great Irish Elk*. These majestic specimens
of the cervine tribe seem to have come down from their
mountain-fastnesses to drink^ and the weight of the homy
foliage of their heads sunk them in the mire and they
perished. In the Curragh-glass those who were suspected
of witchcraft met with a similar fate, and happy were they
if they perished by drowning there, for then they were ac-
quitted of the charge laid against them, and received the
last rites of the church in hallowed ground. But if in the
struggle for life they managed to gain a footing again on
terra firmay then their guilt was established, and the dread-
ful alternative awaited them of finishing their wretched life
either by fire at the stake, or by being rolled down in a
spiked barrel nearly a thousand feet from the northern
summit of Slieauwhallin.

Those days of cruelty and of blood have happily long
passed away, but, alas ! the spirit of superstition which
prompted such deeds lingers on in the midst of Monads
peaceful mountains, and cases of presumed witchcraft con-
tinue still to be obtruded by the credulous peasantry into
courts of justice in the Isle of Manf-

And here we have hard by, in the centre of the valley,
the Tynwald Mount, the "forum judiciale,^^ the hiU of

* There is a very fine specimen in the possession of Mr. Grell^ of
the market-place^ Douglas, obtained in this locality.

t See Mona's Herald, January 10th 1844. Whilst these sheets
have been going through the press, an occurrence has been noted in
the public papers which is by no means rare on the island. A farmer
in the vicinity of Peel lost one or two of his cattle by disease. To
detect the evil eye or avert its malice, he determined on a cow-fire.
With turf, coals and gorse a fire was kindled in the centre of the
road, upon which the entire carcase of the defunct cow was placed.
But an after-thought delayed proceedings awhile. The hide had
been sold to the tanner, and an entire sacrifice was deemed essential.
The hide was sent for, the purchase-price refunded, and then the
holocaust was made. See Manx Sun, October 2nd, 1847.

184 THK ISLE 07 MAN.

justice itself^ as Bishop Wilson explains it. Of the
Scandinavian origin of the name, as well as of the cere-
ni(»ues connected with this hUI, there can be little donbt
whatever, let the interpretation of it he what it may*;
and deeply interesting to every patriot Manxman, as well
as to ev^ antiquarian, must the s^ht of this green
mound be. Whenever he hears of annexation to England,
and a representation in the British Parliament, it ought to
be a monitor to him to stand fast for the ancient glory of
hia country, and to plead hard for tiie independent laws
and the time-honoured institutions of the Isle. Hither,
for eight hundred years and more, has the gathering of his
ancestors been, and here has the herald proclaimed the
decisions of the national council and the laws by which
Man should be governed.

The Tynwald hill, called also Cronk-y-Keeillown (t. e. St.
John's Church Hill), is a mound of earth said to have been
originally brought from each of the seventeen parishes of
the island. The circumference of the base of it is 240 feet :
it rises by four stages or circular platforms, each three feet
higher than the next lower : the lowest platform being
eight feet wide, the next six, the third four, and the last or
topmost being six feet in diameter : the whole is covered

* The tenn "thing" is a Scandinavian equivalent of the Saxon
mote, signifying a court or judicial assembly. Thus we have the
Moot or Motehall for the miners' court in Derbyshire, aAd also the
term Barmote, as well as the Wittenagemote of more ancient days.
May we not connect the English word hustings with the Scandina-
vian thing ? Again Wald is by some said to mevn/enoed, by others
to be the same as the Saxon weald, a woody place ; thus we have the
Wealds of Kent and Sussex. The monks of Rushen in their Latin
Chronicle wrote the word Tingualla. May not ffualla be from
Gallia? We have Cornwall comu Galli, the Gauls m the horn of
England, and WaUia (Wales) from the same root. Thus Tingualla
would mean the British judicial assembly.

THE CEREMONY. 185

with a short turf, neatly kept. Formerly it was walled
round and had two gates.

On the feast of St. John the Baptist a tent is erected
on the summit pf this mound^ and preparations are made
for the receptpn of the offices pf state, according to an-
cient custom. Early in the morning the Governor pro-
ceeds from Castletown under a military escort to St. John's
Chapel, which is a few hundred yards to the eastward of
the T3mwald hill. Here he is received with all due honour
by the Bishop, the Council, the Clergy and the Keys, and
all attend divine service in the chapel, the Government
chaplain officiating. This ended, they march in procession
from the chapel to the mount, the mihtary formed in line
on each side of the green turf walk. The Clergy take the
lead, the juniors being in front and the Bishop in the rear.
Next comes the Vicar-general and the two Deemsters, then
the bearer of the sword of state in front of the Governor,
who is succeeded by the Clerk of the Rolls, the twenty-
four Keys, and the Captains of the different parishes.

The ceremony of the Tynwald hill is thus stated in the
Lex Scripta of the Isle of Man, as given for law to Sir John
Stanley in 1417.

" This is the constitution of old time, how yee should be
governed on the Tinwald-day. First you shall come
thither in your royal array, as a king ought to do by the
prerogatives and royalties of the land of Mann, and upon
the hill of Tinwald sitt in a chaire covered with a royall
cloath and quishions, and your visage into the east, and
your sword before you, holden with the point upward.
Your Barrons in the third degree sitting beside you, and
your beneficed men and your Deemsters before you sitting,
and your Clarke, your knights, esquires and yeomen about
you in the third degree, and the worthiest men in your
land to be called in before your Deemsters, if you will ask

186 THE ISLB OF MAN.

anything of them^ and to hear the government of your land
and your will; and the Commons to stand without the
circle of the hill^ with three dearkes in their surplices, and
your Deemsters shall caU the Coroner of Glanfaba, and he
shall caU in all the Coroners of Man, and their yardes in
their hands, with their weapons upon them, either sword
or axe ; and the Moares, that is to witt of every sheading ;
then the chief Coroner, that is the Coroner of Glenfaba,
shall make affence upon pain of life or lyme, that no
man make a disturbance or stirr in the time of Tinwald,
or any murmur or rising in the Song's presence, upon paine
of hanging and drawing; and then to proceed in your
matters whatsoever you have to doe, in felonie, or treason
or other matters that touch the government of your land
of Manne/'

At the present day the chief ceremony of the Tynwald
Hill is the proclamation in Manx and English of all the
laws which have been passed during the year ; after which
the procession returns in the same order as before to St.
John's Chapel, where the laws receive the signature of
the Governor, Council and Keys, and the business of the
day is finished*.

* In the neighbourhood of Tynwald Hill two great battles are
recorded as having been fought: the one between the brothers
Reginald and Okve in 1229, for the sovereignty of the ishind; the
other in 1238 between Lauchhin on the one side, and Dugal Maol
Mhuise and Joseph, deputies of Harold, on the other. The hitter
were skin. See '' Chronicon Manniee," p. 30, and Chap. YUI. p. 100,
supra.

PEEL. 187

CHAPTER XIII.

Peel.— The Castle.— The Round Tower.— The Cathedral.— The
Crypt. — ^Duchess of Gloucester. — ^Thomas Earl of Warwick. —
The Guard-room. — ^The Moddey Dhoo. — Scenery about Peel. —
Glen Helen.— The Rennass Waterfall.— Glen Darragh.— St. Tri-
nian's Chapel. — Coast-road from Peel to Kirk Michael. — Geolo-
gical features. — Glen Willan. — KLirk Michael. — Bishop Wilson.
— Discipline of the Manx Church.

Halland Town, Holene Town and Holme Town, as it
was anciently called, and more recently Peel Town and
Peel, derives its cliief notoriety from the ancient castle and
cathedral, situated on a small rocky islet at the mouth of
the river Neb, which flowing westward through St. John's
vale, and separating the parishes of Kirk German and Kirk
Patrick, making a sudden turn to the northwards, forms a
commodious harbour near the town, — ^a favourite rendez-
vous of the herring-fleet in the early part of the season'*'.
St. Patrick's Isle is in extent about flve acres, being
simply a prolongation northward of a small spur of the
Horse Hill, which on the opposite side of the river com-
mands the town of Peel. It consists of the ordinary clay-
schist of the neighbourhood, having the usual north-west-
erly dip of this side the mountain. Within its small area
it contains the ruins of the venerable cathedral of St. G«r-
manus, of the still more ancient church of St. Patrick, a
fine specimen of a round tower, and the remains of other
buildings, ecclesiastical as well as civil, of which the age
and uses are in many instances extremely doubtful. The

* For an account of the Herring Fisheries, see Appendix, L.

188 THE I8LB OF MAN.

whole area is surrounded by embattled walls four feet thick^
built of mixed firagments of clay-schist and the old red
sandstone of the immediate neighbourhood^ flanked here
and there irregularly with towers. The erection of these
walls may well be attributed to Henry, the third Earl of
Derby, in 1598*, probably under the direction of his son
the Hon. William Stanley, who was that year Captain or
Governor of the Isle, and afterwards Earl of Derby f. In
more ancient times insular position was considered (at least
by the Celtic races) a sufficient defence; nor is it impro-
bable that some reliance was placed on the hallowed
character of the little isle itself. The island is now
joined at its southern extremity with the mainland by
means of a strong stone causeway, erected within the last
century as a breakwater to secure the harbour from westerly
gales.

In the midst of the green sward, which now has over-
spread nearly the whole of the area within the walls, and
forms a short, sweet pasturage, is a pyramidal mound of
turf, of a rectangular form, facing the four cardinal points,
and measuring about seventy yards along each side. The

* Bishop Wilson states (History, p. 355) that Thomas Earl of
Derby encompassedit with a wall and other fortifications ; but an order
(preserved in the Lex Scripta of the Isle of Man) dated February
18th, 1593, issued from Lathom House, directs that the two garri-
sons of Castle Rushen and Peel should be again erected. If forti-
fications had previously existed at Peel, they were destroyed by
Bobert Bruce in 1313. The manner too in which the walls of the
fortress join on to St. German's Cathedral, show them to be certainly
posterior to that building. Simon would never have built his beau- ,
tiful chancel to range evenly with, and form part of, the walls of a
fortress.

t He received from James I. afresh grant of the island, on terms
equally liberal with those granted by Henry IV. to his ancestor Sir
John Stanley in 1406. This grant was confirmed by the English
Parliament, a.d. 1610.

THE ROtrNB TOWEK. 189

angles have well-nigh disappeared^ and it presents but the
rude outline of its ancient proportion. It seems to have
been an old Danish fort^ thrown up probably about the
beginning of the eleventh century*.

Close by this mound^ perched on the highest point of
the island^ rises the Bound Tower, with its antique masonry
almost wholly of the old red sandstone, regularly laid in
courses of long and thin stones with the wide jointing
filled in with coarse shell-mortar of extreme hardness. It
is in every respect similar to those of Ireland, so admirably
described by Mr. Petrief ; and its position, a httle to the
north of the ruined church, seems to tally remarkably with
the view which he has taken of the double purport of these
buildings, as belfries and as keeps or places of strength for
the protection of sacred utensils, books, relics, and other
valuables, and into which in cases of sudden attack the
ecclesiastics to whom they belonged might retire for secu-
rity. There is a little door facing the east at the lower
part of the tower, six feet nine inches above the ground, to
which access seems to have been gained. by a ladder; four
small square-headed apertures near the top face the cardinal
points, and one other is seen lower down on the north-west
or seaward side]:.

* Mr. Grose, in his ''Antiquities of England/' vol. iv., ^ves it as
his opinion that " from this eminence the commanding officer ha-
rangued his garrison." Mr. Train believes this to have been the
hill named Santwart, or Saint-hill, mentioned in the " Chronicon
Manniie" as the spot where the great battle was fought between
Reginald and Olave in 1098.

t See the Ecclesiastical Architecture of Ireland, &c., by George
Petrie, R.H.A. vol. i. Dublin, 1846.

ft. in.
X Circumference of the Tower near the base ... 44 6

Internal diameter at the door 5 9

Height of the Tower about 60

190 THE ISLE OF MAN.

But the great point of attraction is the venerable Cathe-
dral *^ on the south-eastern side of the isle.

St. Patrick^ on his departure from the Isle of Man in
447, left; behind him (jermanus, a holy and prudent man,
''ad regendum et erudiendum populum in fide Christi/'
says Jocelinusf. This was sixty-nine years prior to the
foundation of the See of Bangor, and one hundred and
fourteen before the mission of St. Augustine. Here then
we stand upon the vestiges of the Cathedral-church of the
most ancient existing See of the British Isles^. But of the
original church of St. Germanus not a trace, as far as we can
point out, remains. The building, of which we see here the
ruins§, is cruciform, and was begun by Simon, who became
Bishop of Sodor in 1226. His work is plainly the chancel :
its style is early English, with somewhat of an admixture
of Norman character. It corresponds in the main with the
architecture of the Cathedral-church at Drontheim, and is
interesting in this view on account of the known connection
of this See of Man and the Isles with that Archiepiscopate||.

The central tower, which is square and has a long square
staircase-turret^ rising to a height of sixty-six feet at the
south-western angle, is evidently of a somewhat later date,
though the chancel arch is early English. The north arch of
the tower is early decorated, and the south arch somewhat
later, as is also the western arch. The transepts are also

* Adetailed account of the Cathedral of St. Gennanus willbe found
in a highly valuable paper, by the Rev. J. L. Petit, in the Arclueolo-
gical Journal, No. 9, p. 49.

t Sacheverell's Survey of the Isle of Man, p. 109.

X It must be borne in mind that St. Patrick was on his way to
Ireland, where he founded the See of Armagh, when he left Germanus
in the Isle of Man.

§ Bishop Hildesley was the last bishop enthroned in this Cathedral.

II The Bishops of Sodor and Man obtained their consecration from
the Archbishop of Drontheim for many generations.

THE CRYPT. 191

of a decorated char^er^ though with later insertions.
The south transept has a western door^ and near it a niche
for holy water^ and over against it on the opposite wall is a
bracket for an image *.

The nave is of ruder workmanship throughout. It would
seem to have had a south aisle^ the piers and arches of
which have been built up and later windows insertedy
though it is not altogether improbable that the piers may
have been originally incorporated in the wall with a view
to the future enlargement of the building by the addition
of the south aisle.

The battlemented character of the central tower, with the
north and south transepts, is very remarkable, as presenting
a combination of military and ecclesiastic purposes in the
same building. It is both a cathedral and a fortress,
though this does not appear to have been originally in-
tended by Bishop Simon when he built the chancel. Under
the chancel is a fine crypt, thirty-four feet by sixteen. A
series of arched ribs springing from thirteen short pilasters
support a pointed barrel vault : the entrance to it is by steps
within the thickness of the south wall of the chancel, and

* The following are the dimensions of the building, as taken by
Mr. Petit:—

ft. in.

Internal length of chancel 36 4

length of nave 52 3

tower from east to west 25 11

Total length inside 114 6

Length of north transept (inside) 20 4

Ditto south transept 22

Total width at intersection.... 68 3

Width of chancel and nave 20 1

Ditto north transept 19 10

Ditto south transept 18 8

Height of chancel- wall and of nave 18

Thickness of the walls about 3

192 THE ISLE OT MAN.

it is lighted by a smaU aperture under the chaneel east
window.

Shakspere^ in the second part of his play of Henry the
Sixths has made allusion to the Isle of Man as the place
whither '^ dame Eleanor Cobham^ Gloster's wife/' should
after three days' penance be sent to live ''in banishment with
Sir John Stanley/' He^ or the author from whom he has
borrowed the substance of the second and third parts ot
that play^ are clearly guilty of an anachronism in thus
bringing tc^ether these two personages. From the events
detailed at the commencement and end of that part of the
play, the period occupied by it hes between the years 1445
and 1455, but Sir John Stanley had died in 1432, and was
succeeded by Thomas, who appears hardly to have resided at
all on the Isle of Man, being for a period o( more than six
years engaged as Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, and afterwards
for five years one of the commissioners for the defence of
Calais. The feet however of the confinement and death of
the Duchess within the wall^ of Peel Castle is generally
allowed, and this crypt under the chancel of the cathedral
is pointed out as her prison-house.* They tell you, says
the marvellous-loving Waldron, that ever since her death
to this hour a person is heard to go up and down the stone
staircase of one of these little houses on the walls constantly
every night as soon as the clock strikes twelve. The con-
jecture is that it is the troubled sprite of this lady, who died
as she lived, dissatisfied and mourning her fatef.

* In later yean, even down to the episcopate of Bishop Wilson,
this ctypt seems to have heen used as the phice of confinement for
persons guilty of gffences coming under ecclesiastical censure, such
as incest and adultery.

t Description of the Isle of Man, p. 110. ''In the reign of
Henry YI. among the friends of Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, his
Duchess, Dame Eleanor, was arrested. Roger Bolynghroke, a man
expert in necromancy, and a woman called Margeiy Jourdemain,

PRISONERS. 193

Dame Eleanor was not the only state prisoner confined
within these sea-girt walls. We read of Thomas Earl of
Warwick, in the reign of Richard II., being banished
hith^, probably through the influence of Sir William
Scroop, afterwards Earl of Wiltshire, who was at this time
king of Man, having purchased the island from Sir William
Montacute, Earl of Salisbury. On the downfall of Richard
his favourite the Earl of Wiltshire* was beheaded, and the
Earl of Warwick was set at liberty by the Duke of Laur
caster, afterwards Henry IV. In after-times we have
notice of Edward Christian (who had been lieutenant-
governor of the isle, and whom Sir Walter Scott seems to
have confounded with his nephew William Dhone,) being
confined a prisoner here by the Earl of Derby. And if
these state-prisoners had liberty of range of the entire
circuit of the isle, ^t were no very miserable confinement,
as far as scenery at least is concerned. There to the south
rises the noble Horse Hill with its notable land-mark f; a
bold coast sweeps onwards t» Contrary Head ; the eastern
side of the hill has a fine rounded swell forming a choice
sheep-walk ; then at its base comes the silvery Neb rippling
over its gravelly bed adown a verdant valley, where grassy

sumamed the Witch of Eye, were charged with having at the request
of the Duchess of Gloucester devised an image of wax like unto
the king, the which imi^ they dealt so with that hy their devilish
sorcery they intended to bring the king o>ut of life, for the which
reason they were adjudged to die." — Falgan's Chronicle, p. 394.

* The following are the terms of the record of sale of the island
to Sir William Scroop : — " Wilhelmus le Scroop emit de Domino
Wilhelmo Montacuto Insulam Eubonise id est Mannise : Est nempe
jus ipsius Insulse, ut quisquis illius sit Dominus, Rex vocetur, cui
etiam fas est Coron^ aure^ coronari." — See Sacheverell's Account
of the Isle of Man, p. 72.

t Corrin's Folly (as it is usually called) is said to have been
erected by a fam^er of Peel as a mausoleum for his " gude wife."

194 THE ISLE or MAN.

slopes are here and there interrupted by clamps of trees
and studded with neat villas. The vale in which stands
the parish church of St. Patrick spreads out far south-
ward^ and is embayed in the majestic amphitheatre of
mountains which form the continuation westward of the
ridge of SUeauwhallin. The South Barrule chain peeps up
at various points beyond. Far to the eastward we look
up the St. John's Valley, and here and there catch sight
of the different mountain-crests which hedge it in and give
such a rich diversity to the Glenfaba sheading. There is
a lower chain in front towards the north-east which sweeps
round from Rock Mount towards the coast nearLhergydhoo
and Ballanayre. It consists of clay-schists which have
been tilted on an axis'*' by an intrusive mass of hornblende
rock, of which the outburst may be seen by the road-side,
where it passes at the southern termination of the range
fiY>m the Peel side down into the lovely Rennass valley.
There is every reason for believing this upheaval to have
been posterior to the Carboniferous sera, for it appears to
have tilted also the old red sandstone of this neighbour*
hood to a high angle, and there is no evidence whatever of
any disturbance of the area between the old red and the
carboniferous limestone. It is very unfortunate that the
whole line of jimction of the schists and the old red sand-
stone in this neighbourhood is covered up by the tertiary
gravels and clays except at the point where they come out
together on the sea-coast, and here all the beds are so
shattered by intrusive masses of igneous rock that we can
learn nothing of their history in connection. Northward
beyond this point the shore loses its bold character, and
the fine sweep of Kirk Michael Bay and the further reach
to Jurby Point, thirteen miles from Peel, presents, by its

* See Plate I.^ Section aeross the island.

THE CASTLE SCENSBT. 195

remarkable terrace-like appearance^ a singular contrast to
the nearer mountain scenery. The transition from the
primary to the tertiary strata^ and the character of the
drift-gravel platform as a raised sea-beach^ is nowhere more
distinctly marked.

On a remarkably clear day the view which the Irish Sea
presents to us on looking out over the ruined battlements
of Peel Castle is that of a large inland lake^ the Scotch
and Irish coasts seem so completely to embay it. Burrow
Head^ in the south of Scotland^ seems but a continuation
of the land beyond Jurby Point. Luce Bay runs far inland^
and its head cannot be seen^ but the Mull of Galloway
comes stretching down again towards us from the blue
distance westward and southward; and then again the
coast-line from Belfast Lough and the Gopeland Isles to
the mouth of Lough Rtrangford, and so on to Ardglas
and Dundrum Bay^ shuts up the scenery to the far west.
And then southwards of Dundrum Bay the Mourne moun-
tains rise up again with imposing magnificence and run
far enough down the channel to be shut up by Contrary
Head^ which is but a mile or two off.

But the picture is not complete without taking in the
ancient-looking town of Peel^ which will remind northerns
of some of the Highland sea-side towns built upon this
same old red sandstone. It may be^ after all^ a question
whether or no Peel itself does stand upon the old red
sandstone^ or whether the schist on which Peel Castle
stands passes under the river and actually underlies the
drift-gravel and boulder-clay^ in which the foundations of
the houses of the town are dug. Perhaps the Coal Com-
pany of Peel will undertake to solve the question by their
borings in this neighbourhood ! The old red sandstone
however comes out &iely from under the tertiary beds a
couple of hundred yards north of the town^ and presents a

196 THE I8LS OF MAN.

bold cliff to the westward and soathward^ thoagh tlie sea
has made great inroads upon it, and has dug out a fine
series of caves and romantic gullies all along the coast
where it is exposed. These gullies are a favourite resort
of pebble-seekers*. At the base of them, generally
speaking, is a fine gravelly beach, on which a little careful
searching will discover madrepores, grey and red cornelians,
agates and jaspers ; the former have been broken ofi* from
the carboniferous limestone, which there is every reason to
believe lies exposed a few hundred yards firom the shore;
the latter have either been washed out of the old red con-
glomerate and primary rocks of this neighbourhood, or
may have come firom the washing of the drift-gravel by the
mountain streamlets which cut their way through it and
bring down with them alluvial deposits into these gullies.
Yet these things could, after all, have no interest in the
eyes of the lonely prisoners in Peel Castle. Had Fenella
been a reaUty (as the guide, who shows the sally-port where
she is said to have been last 'seen, gravely assures us), we
might well fancy her fairy steps tripping along the gravelly
beach, and ever and anon snatching up the sparkling
pebbles which the last tide had cast at her feet. But for
the rest, kingdoms were the baubles which glistened in
their eyes, and one of them at least was so successful in
the pursuit as to gain for himself the title of the King-
maker.

We descend fi-om the Cathedral to the guard-house
hard by the ancient gateway. Though one of the latest-
erected portions t of the Castle, and solidly built, decay

* The White Strand about a mile northward of Peel is particu-
larly noted.

t " The tower, and other parts of the castle about the entrance,
which is south of the Cathedral, seem to belong to the early part of
the fourteenth century ; the masonry is strong and carefiil, though

':l

THE SFECTBE-HOUND. 197

has set its cold grasp upon it ; the dew-damp rests upon
the walls which of old echoed with the soldiers^ mirth, and .
the hearth which blazed brightly is now desolate and blacks
But the Wizard of the North has thrown an air of enchant-
ment over it which will endure till the notes of the last
minstrel's lay have ceased to sound*.

The story of the spectre-hound or black dog of Peel
Castle is thus told by Waldronf : —

'' They say that an apparition^ called in their language
the Moddey dhoo, in the shape of a large black spaniel,
with curled shaggy hair, was used to haunt Peel Castle,
and has been frequently seen in every room, but par-
ticularly in the guard-chamber, where, as soon as the
candles were lighted, it came and lay down before the
fire in presence of all the soldiers, who at length, by being
so much accustomed to the sight of it, lost great part
of the terror they were seized with at its first appearance.
They still however retained a certain awe, believing it to
be an evil spirit which waited to do them hurt, and for that
reason forbore swearing and all profane discourse while in
its company. But though they endured the shock of such
a guest when all together, none cared to be left alone with
it. It being the cfustom therefore for one of the soldiers

not very regular^ and the blocks of stone larger than those used in
other parts of the huilding." — ^The Rev. J. L. Petit, in the Archaeo-
logieal Journal, Part 9.

* But none of all the astonish'd train
Were so dismay'd as Deloraine ;
His hlood did freeze, his hrain did bum,
'T was fear'd his mind would ne'er return ;
For he was speechless, ghastly, wan.
Like him of whom the story ran
That spoke the spectre-hound in Man.

Scott's Lay of the Last Minstrel,
t Description of the Isle of Man, 1731.

198 THE I8LB OV MAN.

to lock the gates of the castle at a certain hour, and cany
. the keys to the captain, to whose apartment the way led
through a choreh, they agreed among themselves, that
whoever was to succeed, the ensuing night, his fellow on
this errand should accompany him that went first, and by
this means no man would be exposed singly to the danger,
for the Moddey dhoo W9B always seen to come out firom that
passage at the close of day, and return to it as soon as the
morning dawned, which made them look upon this place as
its peculiar residence.

" One night a fellow being drunk, and by the strength
of his liquor rendered more daring than ordinary, laughed
at the simplicity of his companions ; and thou^ it was
not his turn to go with the keys, would needs take that
office to testify his courage. All the soldi^s endeavoured
to dissuade him ; but the more they said the more resolute
he seemed, and swore that he desired nothing more than
that the Modiey dhoo would follow him as it had done the
others, for he would try whether it was dog or devil. After
having talked in a very reprobate manner f(Mr some time,
he snatched up the keys and went out of the guard-room.
In some time after his departure a noise was heard ; but
nobody had the boldness to see what occasioned it, till the
adventurer retuiiiing they demanded the knowledge of
him ; but loud and noisy as he had been at leaving them,
he was now become sober and silent enough ; for he was
never heard to speak more; and though all the time he
lived, which was three days, he was entreated by all who
came near him either to speak, or if he could not do that,
to make some signs by which they might understand what
had happened to him, yet nothing intelligible could be
got from him, only that by the distortion of his limbs and
features it might be guessed that he died in agonies
greater than is common in a natural death. The Moddey

GLEN HELEN. 199

dhoo was however never seea afterwards, nor would any
one attempt to go through that passage ; for which reason
it was closed up and another way made. This accident I
heard attested by several, but especially by an old soldier,
who assured me that he had seen the Moddey dhoo oftener
than he had hairs on his head.''

Our journey to the north of the island from Peel may be
made either by the coast-line or by the more inland route
through the Bennass valley. This latter is much the
further of the two as respects distance, but it has so many
beauties peculiarly its own, that the general tourist in
making the detour will find himself amply repaid; and if
he has time at his disposal, he may be induced perhaps still
further to lengthen the journey by following the valley and
the stream beyond the point where the road to the north
turns up Craig Willie and passes by Cronk-y-Voddey*.
The continuation of Glen Helen in the direction of Little
London beyond this point, is not in itself so striking as
the more southern portion of the valley which the high
road traverses. Its chief interest is derived from the
Bennass waterfall and the wildness of the scenery around
the spot where the waters fret and tremble, then dash
onwards over the jagged edge of rock, and pour their
whitened volume into the seething caldron below. But to
tiiis fall there is no carriage-road as yet, and the distance
of a couple of miles thither and back from the highway t
must be made on foot or horseback.

* Cronk-y-Yoddey, the hill of the dog. It will be observed that
accordmg to the genius of the Manx language, the m at the begin-
ning of the word moddey dog is, in a state of construction, changed
into V, See Appendix, M. *' On the Manx language."

t We cannot speak of turnpikes in the Isle of Man, as no tolls
are taken upon the highways, which are kept up chiefly by a tax of
ten shillings per annum upon each pair of wheels of any vehicle.

200 THE ISLE OF HAN.

It would after all^ perhaps^ be more desirable to make
this point the object of a separate visit from Douglas, and
the excursion might then include a peep into Glen Darragh
(the Vale of Oaks), where is a (so-called) Druidical temple
in good preservation, the Mona Mine of Ellersley on the
Bishop's barony, and the ruins of St. Trinian's Chapel*
on the road-side near Crosby. The pedestrian or horse-
man having visited these places and the Rennass water-
fall, might return to Douglas by the Baldwin valley, by
taking the pass across the mountain between Sartel and
Greebah.

The coast-road from Feel to Kirk Michael lies, except
at one point, wholly upon the terrace of the drift-gravel,
descending however in several places into the deep narrow
valleys, which have been eroded in the drift partly by the
action of the mountain streamlets and partly by that of
the sea when the land was more depressed than it now is.
These valleys are extremely picturesque, often well-wooded,
studded over with cottages, opening out into the sea at the
lower extremity with a fine alluvial terrace, and at the
upper backed by some fine sweep of the mountain-range.
They offer to the geologist peculiar facilities for the study
of the pleistocene series, as well as several points of inter-
est connected with the disturbances of the palseozoic rocks,
and he will therefore almost necessarily adopt the coast-
line in his joumeyingsf.

* This parish seems to abound in ruined oratories. There is one
on the estate of Balla Crink, another at Balla quinney-mooar, a third
at Balk-lough, and a fourth at BalUngan.

t In following the coast-line northward from Craig-Mallin, he
travels through the beds of the old red sandstone in the ascending
order. The upper portion is greatly charged with carbonate of lime,
and efienresces strongly with acids. It contains characteristic De-
vonian fossils, such as Favosites polymorpha, though there is every
probability that it passes very soon into the lower carboniferous

, GLEN WILLAN. 201

A description of Glen Willan, which is but a few hun-
dred yards southwards of the point where the coast-road
and the inland road unite near the Mitre hotel and the
Ecclesiastical Court-house of Kirk Michael^ will serve as a
sample of all the other glens which have been excavated in
the pleistocene series.

The road from Peel to Kirk Michael is carried across
the lower part of Glen Willan by an embankment^ with a
bridge of a single arch in its centre^ which permits the
egress of the waters brought down from Slieaudhoo and
Slieau-ny-fraughane. At the western extremity of this
embankment a rustic gate admits to a winding path along
that side of the valley towards the sea. A prominent
point about 300 yards down presents itself to the artist as
the proper station for taking a sketch. The foreground
consists of the sloping banks which skirt either side of
the purling streamlet with a profusion of broom, eglantine,
gorse, daisies, primroses, veronicas and white campanelles.
The sides of the valley incline at an angle of 40°, and its
breadth at the bottom averages about 150 yards. Look
upwards inland in a direction S.S.E. -how exquisitely
grouped are the cottages and trees by the mill and the
rustic bridge ! A fine section is presented of the drift-
gravel platform by the road-cutting in the north-eastern
escarpment. We have atop about twenty-five feet of very

aeries of the island. Whether the liraestone which supplied the
kilns ahout a mile north of Peel was simply a band of corn-stone in
the Devonian series, or a true hmestone of the Carboniferous age,
there are hardly sufficient data to determine. At the mouth of the
streamlet (Claveg) which runs down from Lhergydhoo, the old red
sandstone is seen to rise on a bold undulation which in the next
creek northwards is shown to have been caused by the protrusion of
the mass of igneous rock which cuts off the Devonian beds to the
north-east of a line hence to Rock Mount.

202 THE ISLE OF MAN.

coarse gravel*. This rests on a great thickness of fine
sand^ which passes into the loamy sand of the bonlder
formation. To the right is a rounded range of low hills
of this formation, rising nearly 100 feet above the level of
the drift platform. We have a magnificent view of the
mountains beyond, — Sartel, Slieau-dhoo, Slieau-ny-fraug-
hane and Slieau«heame. The clouds fiit across their sum-
mits and cast down creeping shadows into the ravines and
along the verdant slopes.

If we turn round again to the north, and look out at the
opening of the valley towards the sea, we trace the windings
of the stream in the low alluvial flat, and beside it fisher*
men*s cots, with the usual concomitants. The cattle stray
upon the very verge of the cliff. The black*cap and spar-
row twitter in the gorse. The lark rises up aloft from the
gravel terrace, and at heaven^s gate sings ; whilst the plover
whirls around in mazy eddies with well-feigned anxiety
about that comer of the field which is furthest off from
the spot where she has deposited her four brown speckled
eggs. The nearer murmur of the stream mixes with the
farther-off dash of the breaker on the shore, and the wild
cry of the curlew which sweeps by the mouth of the glen
with the cackling of the geese which are nibbling the short
herbage a little higher up.

Beyond, afar off, over the deep blue wave, the Mull of
Galloway and Burrow Head are seen embracing Luce Bay ;
the sand-hills about Bishop's Court hide the rest of the
Scottish coast. Here we have Kirk Michael close at hand,
spreading out towards the mountains, but clustering round
the modest chiurch and the grave-yard where rests the
earthly tabernacle of the holy Thomas Wilson. The humble
palace where he dwelt during the half-century of his epi-

* See Plate VIII. and the explanation of it.

KIRK MICHAEL. 203

Bcopate lies in the wooded glen beyond^ and the tallest of
the trees which we catch sight of there are said to have
been planted by his hand. Let us remove and take a
nearer view of these different objects.

Kirk Michael Churchyard has some points of interest
which may cause us to loiter awhile within its precincts.
Those old Runic monuments at the gateway indicate that
for at least 800 years this spot has been the resting-place
of the ancestry of the tenants of this ecclesiastical village;
and they indicate that the persons to whose memory they
were erected professed themselves Christians^ which the
more recent headstones might not perhaps lead us to con-
clude of the tenants of the graves beneath them. Yet the
inscriptions of the more ancient stones are almost wholly
hieroglyphic. This much however we can learn of the
x>wner of one of them^ that he was a Nimrod in his day^ a
mighty hunter as well as warrior. The animals of the chase
as well as the beasts of the field are sculptured alongside
of the figure of a warrior bearing his javelin and shield*.

* This Runic monument, which stands just outside the church-
yard gate, is in very good preservation. It is 7 feet 4 inches in
height, 20 inches wide and 5 inches thick, of the blue clay schist of
Spanish Head. The inscription is cut in Runes along the edge of
the stone, and has been as usual variously read and interpreted.

Sir John Prestwich read it (as given in Bishop Wilson's Life by
Cratwell)— -" Jualstr ! : Ujnr : Thurulf ! : Ein I : Rautha : Ri ! Ti !
Kru ! : Thono : Aft : Frithu : Duthur ! : Jao : " and he translates
it thus : " Walter son of Thurulf, a knight right valiant. Lord of
Frithu the Father Jesus Christ." There is no doubt of this being in-
correct; the reading, in fact, is not consistent throughout. Mr*
Train (' Isle of Man,' vol. ii. p. 36) gives the following as the reading
and translation of Mr. Just, of Bury, Lancashire : — " Voalfar : Sunr :
Thurulfs: Eins: Rautha: Rasti: Krus: Thono: Aft: Frithu:
Muthur : Sino :" — " Voalfar, son of Thurulf the Red, raised this cross
lor Frithu, his mother." A view of this stone is given in the Archieo-
logical Journal, vol. ii. p. 76 ; and in Kinnebrook*8 Runic Monu-
ments of the Isle of Man.'

204 THE ISLE OF MAN.

And we seem to have proof before us that smce that time
a change has taken place in the class of animals which
must be considered upon the isle ^Aferct naturd. The deer
tribe was game in those days. But even the laws of
Howel Dha could avail nothing against the advance of
agriculture and civilization, and the area of the Manx
mountains, even if placed altogether within a ring-fence, is
much too circumscribed for the rambles of the cervine
race*.

Another of these Runic monuments standing on the
wall to the north of the gateway, in good condition, con*^
tains also amongst other devices that of a stag, and a
figure apparently playing upon a harp. The churchyard
is rich in these remains (there are five altogether), and
they form a beautiful link in the chain of monumental hi-
story. We have first of all rude uncarved blocks and pillars
frequently placed in a circle, as the Cairn Vichael in this
parish ; then these elaborately wrought crosses, with their
singular Runic inscriptions and strange devices ; we have
then the coped coffin-lid, such as that preserved at Rushen
Abbey ; of sepulchral brasses, there are no recorded sam-
ples in the Isle of Man ; lastly, we see the miserable, un-
meaning, and too oft unchristian productions of the last
two centuries, standing up a dense black crowd in every
churchyard around.

Yet there is a recent monumental erection in the grave-
yard of Kirk Michael which may well excite attention.
The parish-register says, — " The Right Reverend Father
in God, Dr. Thomas Wilson f. Lord Bishop of Sodor and
Man, buried near the east gable of the church, March 11th,

* An attempt was made by James the seventh Earl of Derby to
preserve deer upon the Calf Islet, but without success, as they swam
across the Sound.

t For an accoimt of Bishop Wilson, see Appendix, N.

CHURCH DISCIPLINE. 205

1755/* Directing thither our steps, not to the east end
of the present church, but of the old one, of which the
gable has been preserved, we find a plain tomb railed in
with iron, and bearing the following^ inscription*: "Sleeping
in Jesus, here lieth the body of Thomas Wilson, D.D.,
Lord Bishop of this Isle, who died March 7th, 1755, aged
93, in the 58th year of his consecration. This monument
was erected by his son Thomas Wilson, D.D., a native of
this parish, who, in obedience to the express command of
liis worthy father, declines giving him the character he so
justly deserves. Let this island speak the rest.'*

If that appeal be made now, what must be the answer
as far as the Church is concerned ? Bishop Wilson, in
speaking of the general readiness with which ecclesiastical
censures were submitted to in his episcopate, gives as one
reason that there was no professedly Christian community
besides the Established Church to which excommunicate
persons might betake themselves ; and in his ' History of
the Isle of Man * he states that, excepting a family or two of
Quakers, Dissenters of any denomination there were none.
Such also is the testimony of his successor Bishop Hil-
desley when writing to the Archbishop of York in 1 762t : —
" The adult natives, to a man I think I may say, are con-
formists to the established communion of the Church, and
so exact and punctual for the most part X in their attend-
ance on the public oflSces of divine worship (there being
no less than 600 at the communion in a country parish
church at Easter), that there is little or no occasion for
presentments on this head.*'

* In the same churchyard we find the graves of his successors in
the episcopate, Hildesley and Criggan; the former died in 1772,
aged 7i ; the latter in 1813.

t See Butler's Life of Bishop Hildesley, p. 418.

X For the discipline and order of the Manx Church, tee Appen-
dix, O.

206 THE ISLE OT MAN.

What is the position of church matters now ? Almost
within the short space of the mile which intervenes between
the churchyard where Bishop Wilson is interred and the
palace where he lived are two meeting-houses *, filled each
succeeding Sunday with parishioners zealously attached to
Wesleyanism in its different connections. And such is pretty
generally the case diroughout the island. The meeting-
houses outnumber the parish churches in the proportion
of four to one^ and the congregations assembling within
each respectively are very nearly in the same proportion.
Yet the people are not hostile to^ though aUenated from^
the Churchy and there is far more hope of their restoration
to the conformity of their fathers than is the case with the
Separatists on the other side of the water. And it is per-
haps not too much to say^ that the remembrance of the
great benefits^ temporal as weU as spiritual^ conferred upon
this isle by the bishops of the Church, foremost amongst
whom stands, and will ever stand, the holy and apostolic
Wilson, has contributed very largely to keep up the feeling
which doubtless still exists in the minds of the great mass
of the population, that the Established Church is their
church, and that it is a real blessing to the isle.

* One of them is a few hundred yards to the south of the church
gates.

bishop's couet. 207

CHAPTER XIV.

Bishop'g Court.— The Grounds.— The ChapcL—Oiry'g Head.— Pro-
bable continuation of limestone series in the north of the Island.
— ^Formation of the Curragh.— ^allaugh. — Jurby. — Megaceros
marl-pits. — Use of marl. — Overthrown ancient forests. — ^Ancient
lakes. — Legend of Mirescogh. — Sulby Glen. — Snaefell. — ^The
Bride Hills. — ^Admiral Thurot.— The Ayre. — Point Cranstal. —
Grand development of Boulder series. — ^Ramsey. — Ballure Glen.
—Sky HiU.— Port-le-VoiUen.— Kirk Maughold.— The Holy WeU.
— ^Vision of Gil Colum. — ^The Dhoon granite. — Laxey. — Orry*8
Cairn. — Cloven Stones. — ^Return to Douglas.

The demesne of Bishop's Court consists of (very nearly)
one square mile of glebe. There is a peculiar charm about
it in the contrast of its richly wooded glen with the open-
ness of the surrounding country^ and the magnificent pile
of mountain which rises up from it in one continuous
verdant slope towards the east. There is a repose upon
the spot which specially suits its character as the residence
of a Christian Bishop*.

The palace itself is in perfect keeping; Bishop Wilson's
description still holding good^ in which he speaks of it as
" a good house and chapel (if not stately^ yet convenient
enough)^ large gardens and pleasant walks^ sheltered with
groves of fruit and forest trees.'' When he came to it he
beheld it sadly fallen to ruinf, the bishopric having been

* For a catalogue of the Bishops of Sodor and Man, see Ap-
pendix, P.

t The date of the original palace is not known, though there is
no doubt of its being extremely ancient. It is said to have been a
castellated building, and that one part of it had the name Orry's

208 THE ISLE OF MAN.

vacant five years ; but with his characteristic energy, he
immediately commenced a substantial restoration; and
though very valuable improvements have since been made^
the substance of the present building may still be con-
sidered his. In the grounds, the avenue of elm-trees (now
thickly hung with ivy), which closes in the northern ex-
tremity of the lawn, is always pointed out as the planting
of the earlier days of his episcopate, and a favourite prome-
nade in the later*. Here, walking one cold damp day,
after evening prayers, in the ninety- third year of his life
and the fifty-eighth of his consecration, he caught that
cold which terminated his earthly labours, and permitted
his longing spirit to enter into the rest of that Paradise
where he enjoys the blessed society of just men made
perfect.

The chief additions and improvements made to the
palace and grounds since his day have been under the di-
rection of Bishops Murray and Short. The former rebuilt
the chapel, which the latter again refitted. The chair on
the north side of the holy table is a reUc of Bishop
Hildesley, and on convocation-days the chair of the vene-
rable Wilson is brought out and occupied by the Bishop,
whilst in conference with his assembled clergy.

The parishes of Kirk Michael and Ballaugh each of
them claim a share in Bishop^s Court, as the streamlet
which winds down the glen in which it is situated forms
the boundary between the two. Following this streamlet
upwards towards the mountain^ we catch through the trees

Tower, and was surrounded by a ditch. We have historical evidence
of its having been occupied by Bishop Simon in 1230.

* His coffin was made of the wood of one of the elms which he
had pknted on his arrival upon the island, and which he caused to
be cut down and prepared for the purpose a few years before his
death.

oery's dale. 209

here and there lovely glimpses of the country far and near,
the Scotch and Irish coasts ever on a clear day presenting
their faint blue outUne on the extreme verge of the horizon.

Downwards the stream leads into Orry's Dale and
towards Orry's Head* Where the former begins to open
out to the sea, we fall in with a limekiln ; where is the
limestone ? The boulders of limestone have been found in
sufficient quantities along the shore to make it worth while
to collect them for this purpose, owing to the difficulty
and expense of conveying lime from the southern to the
northern portions of the island. Whence have these
boulders come? They tumble out of the boulder-clay
which is developed very finely along the entire coast, from
Kirk Michael to Jurby Point, in the cliffs rising from 50
to 150 feet above the level of the sea.

The rake of the tide sweeping powerfully down the Irish
Channel falling upon this coast, composed as it is of loose
materials of sand, loam and boulders, pulls down continu-
ally vast masses from the cliffs, and bears away the finer
portions as its spoil. The boulders left behind are chiefly
granites, syenites and porphyries, quartz-rock, clay-slate,,
old red conglomerate, limestone, and a few chalk-flints.
Whether the last, which must have come from the north
of Ireland, belong to the boulder formation, or are truly
found only in the drift-gravel, I have not yet seen any
determinate evidence.

Let us examine the limestone boulders. Some of them
hav^ a deep reddish tinge, and look like a passage-rock
from the old red sandstone into the lower limestone ; the
contained fossils are chiefly corals, madrepores and tubi-
porites ; others again are comparable to the dark limestone
of the south of the Isle of Man in lithological character and
organisms, and we fall in also with some containing the
characteristic fossils of the upper or Poolvash limestone.

210 THE I8LB OF MAN.

Now as we have at Peel very plainly the Old Red series
of considerable thickness dipping down into the sea west-
ward and north-westward^ it is very reasonable to conclude
that the basset edge, both of it and of the different beds of
the superior limestone, curves round to the northwards,
and passes under the northern area of the Isle of Man; so
that it would be by no means a rash speculation at various
points in the northern parishes, at the distance of from
three to four miles from the mountains, to bore through
the pleistocene series with the expectation of falling in with
the much-sought-after, and in this neighbourhood specially
valuable, limestone. To make such an excavation would
evidently not be money altogether thrown away (as in all
attempts to find coal in the south and centre of the island)^
for the excavated materials, aU the way down to whatever
rock we might happen to come to, being the very marl
which is so largely used upon the sandy lands of the north,
would evidently pay a large portion of the expense of the
trial. The subjacent rock might be expected in some
places, such as along the northern edge of the Curragh, at
from 60 to 100 feet below the surface; it might even be
less than this*.

Whilst it is evident that we must look to the south of
Scotland as the chief origin of the granites, porphyries and
syenites which we meet with in the boulder-clay of the
north of the Isle of Man, it is not altogether improbable
that the Umestone, old red sandstone and schist boulders
may some of them have a more local derivation. Under
the impression that the coal beds which dip down into the

* In the year 1839 borings were made fbr coal at the Craig near
St. Jude's chureh ; the following is stated to have been the result :
five feet sand, twenty-seven feet blue marl, two feet gravel, twenty-
seven feet blue marl, and then sand. The boring was not proceeded
with any deeper.

BALLaUGH. 211

sea at Whitehaven^ and are wrought to some distance
under it^ come up again between that coast and the north
of the Isle of Man^ I have often sought for some frag-
ments of the coaUmeasures amongst these boulders^ but
hitherto without success.

From the mouth of Orry^s Dale a fine range of sand-
hills sweeps round to Ballaugh^ and in passing along them
we gradually bring within sight the entire expanse of the
northern plain country^ constituting an area of fifty square
miles. It is a scene which may perhaps remind us of some
portions of Norfolk^ where we meet with the next greatest
development of the pleistocene series in the British Isles
south of the Clyde.

At our feet lies the straggling village of Ballaugh^ one
moiety of which clusters round the old church near the
sea-shore; the other seems to have drawn upwards and
inland towards the high road which bends round the base
of the mountains^ and has a new church erected for greater
eonvenience of access.

That lovely vajley south of the village, down which the
river comes rippling, is Ravensdale, and contains within
itself some exquisite wild scenery ; at its head there is a
fine pass over the mountains into Druidale and the south
of the island.

Ballaugh clearly stands on the platform of drift-gravel.
If we look out northward and eastward, the eye roams over
a low swampy country, the fen-district of the island, of
which the local name is the.Gurragh. It occupies, as we
may see, a depression in the drift-gravel several miles in ex-
tent, the further bank extending in a curved line from near
Jurby Church towards Andreas. We may compare it to
a great inland lake fringed round with gravel-banks. Such
in fact at one time it was, but the lake has been gradually

212

THE ISLE OV MAN.

drained and fiDed up with montane alluvial deposits*, and
layer after layer of turf has accumulated in the damp
hollows^ sometimes to the depth of thirty feet^ and reduced
the whole to one level surface^ which by burning and top-
dressing with the marlf of the neighbourhood has at
length been brought to bear the plough and to yield a good
return for the expended capital.

Jurby Church stands out a very conspicuous object on
the higher ground near the headland. The name is

* Bishop Wilson mentions the occurrence of a layer of peat three
or four feet thick under a bed of gravel, sand and day of some miles
in extent. At one time I thought that he referred to some locality
which had heen inundated from the sea. I am now inclined to the
belief that the gravel, &c. is the result of montane detritus, which
has been spread out over the peat by the change of a river-course
or some similar cause.

t The advantage derived from the marl does not seem to consist
in the quantity of lime which it contains, as this is hardly more than
six per cent., but in the consistency which it imparts to the sandy
soil. It is singular that it has been so little used in the south of
the island, where it is even of better quality than in the north, and
where the deficiency of lime can be so easily remedied. When
Sacheverell wrote in 1703, the Manx fiirmers are stated not to have
had the skill or purses to lay it out on their grounds. The marl of
the north is of three kinds : the Andreas marl, generally red, and
evidently of the boulder-clay formation ; the Jurby, which is of a
lighter colour with streaks of blue, and containing sometimes vege-
table impressions to a great depth ; this is probably the deposit of
some of the ancient lakes ; and the white shell-marl of Ballaugh be-
longing to the very ancient alluvial basins of the period of the Me-
gaceros or Irish Elk. The preference is given to the two former,
especially the first. About 3300 bushels per acre are laid upon
light lands, and 2800 on those of stronger quality. The heaps
collected in summer lie till winter commences, when the marl is
spread and ploughed in. A bushel of marl, unheaped, weighs
about Il2lbs.--See Quayle's Agriculture of the Isle of Man, p. 93.

THE CURBAOH. 213

evidently Norwegian, the more ancient appellation being
St. Patrick^s Isle: and insular at one time the parish
certainly was, the sea sweeping round it westward and
northward, and the Curragh with its out-flowing waters to
the eastward and southward. There is a tradition that all
the waters of the river Sulby, which now taking an easterly
course from the mouth of the glen, flow into the sea at
Ramsey, formerly found their outlet on the northern side
of the island by the Lhen-Mooar. It is easily seen that a
very little labour would, if it were necessary, turn the river
down that way again.

St. Jude^s Church, in the parish of Andreas, is a marked
object in the very centre of this great plane area. It stands
on an outlier of the drift-gravel, — a kind of spur thrown out
westward from the Andreas bank into the midst of the lake.
The parish church of Andreas is not so readily distinguished
through the want of a tower or spire. St. Bride's Church
is altogether out of sight, as it Ues on the other side of that
low rounded chain of hiUs atretching out from Blue Head
to Point Cranstal.

A very great relief to the sameness of scenery through-
out the wide-spreading flat area of the north of the island
is afforded by several luxuriant patches of trees, which are
aggregated at suitable intervals around the better sort of
farm-houses, which occupy prominent points around the
margin of the Curragh. The Ivoods also stretch up the
mountain valleys, and clothe the north-eastern face of the
mountains themselves, and thus giye a varied richness to the
landscape, especially as viewed from the northern side of the
Curragh in the neighbourhood of East Nappin and thence
along the road to Kirk Andreas. Ballaugh is peculiarly
interesting to the geologist as the locality where the
first tolerably perfect specimen of the Great Irish Elk was
discovered. At a farm known by the name of Balla Ter-

214 THE ISLE OF MAN.

son to the eastward of the new churchy and about a mile
from the foot of the mountains^ are two oval depressions
in the drift-gravel platform* ; they are on either side of a
by-road which leads down from the great northern high
Toad to the sea-shore. It was in the more westerly of the
two that the celebrated fossil f was discovered. Mr. Oswald
of Douglas t has well pointed out both the character of this
basin and the circumstances under which the Elk was
found. It is a small turf-bog about a hundred yards long
by fifty wide, occupied in the central part by a pool vary-
ing in size according to the moisture of the season, in which
aquatic plants luxuriate. The superficial stratum is a
light and fibrous peat of good quality, enveloping some
fragments of bog-timber. The thickness of the peat in
the centre of this basin is six feet, but it thins out con-
siderably towards the margin. Under the peat is a bed of
fine bluish-white earthy sand from two to three feet in
thickness. This rests upon a deposit of white marl con-
taining delineations of shellsi The marl is of a fibrous
laminar structure, and when dry as white as chalk ; the
shells are delineated white upon a somewhat darker ground^
and are discovered by separating the layers, but are seldom
if ever found in their original state. In this marl a great
quantity of bones of the Elk were found at the first open-
ing of the pit, occurring at various depths in the marl, but

* See Plate VIII., Section from the mountain-range to Jurby
Point.

t Megaceros Hibemicu$. See Professor Owen's Report to the
British Association, 1843, p. 237 ; also his British Fossil Mammalia,
p. 447. The figure in the ' Ossemens Fossiles,' tom. iv. pi. 8, is
taken from an engrayixig of the Ballaugh skeleton transmitted to
Baron Cuvier by Professor Jamieson.

t See " Observations relative to the Fossil Elk of the Isle of Man,
by H. R. Oswald, Esq., F.S.A., Surgeon," in the 3rd vol. of the
Edinburgh Journal of Science, 1826, p. 28.

HEGACEBOS. 215

the deeper they were found the more fresh and perfect did
they appear^ and near the bottom complete heads were
found.

The skeleton which was presented by the Duke of Athol
to the Museum of the University of Edinburgh^ was found
quite at the bottom of the marl where the bed was about
twelve feet thick. The different bones, though partly con-
nected, were in much disorder. An ingenious blacksmith
of the village possessed himself of the skeleton, and in
putting it together according to his own ideas of what the
animal was, found himself short of a few bones, which he
supplied from the relics of other animals, and it was some
time before the fraud was discovered.

This shell-marl would appear to rest on the boulder
formation, according to the description given by the work-
men. When they pierced it, water immediately sprung
up and inundated the pit. It is worth while to notice that
the peat and timber are confined to the surface of the
basin, and that in them no remains of the Elk were found,
and this has been universally the case in the Isle of Man.
Under the portion of the Ballaugh Curragh which stretches
down towards Ballamona, and pours forth its accumulated
waters bytheCarlaane drain into the sea,, similar basins to
these have been discovered* containing the remains of the
Elk, but they are all below the great turf-bogs in which we
meet with trunks of trees both upright and prostratef.

There is no doubt that great changes have taken place
throughout this northern area, even within the period

* See Plate VIII., Section from the mountains to Jurby Point.

t See the statement of Bishop Wilson, History of the Isle of
Man, p. 341 : '* Large trees of oak and fir have been found, some
two feet and a half in diameter ; they do not lie promiscuously, but
where there is plenty of one sort there are generally few or none of
the other."

316 THE ISLE OF MAN.

which has been called historical. The old map of the Isle
of Man performed by Thomas Durham^ as given by Speedy
Camden^ Chaloner^ and in Bleau^s Atlas, exhibits ancient
lakes both in the south and north of the island*. There
was the Malar lough in Lezayre, a lough in Andreas parish^
and Bala lough, the corruption of which has given the
present name of the village in its vicinity — Ballaughf.

The great lake of Myreshaw or Mirescogh seems to have
occupied at one time a large portion of the Gurragh I near
the base of the mountains, and so late as 1505 we read of

* See Plate lY. In some portions of the drained Curragh have
been found stone celts and other relics of more ancient times, such
as coracles which were probably sunk in these ancient lakes. I have
in my possession a celt of the simplest kind, found under the peat
on the edge of the Curragh near East Nappin. In a meadow ad-
joining Close Mooar, the property of Professor E. Forbes, were foimd
a short time ago a stone axe and sharpening or edge stone a few feet
asunder. They lay upon a bed of fine sand, covered over with a
stratum about four feet thick of peat trunks of oak-trees, &c., and
over the peat was a bed of blue dluvial clay to the depth of three or
four feet.

t Some derive the name from Balla laagh, the place of the mire.
There are several Balla loughs in di£ferent parts of the island.

^ Sacheverell mentions (p. 3) the draining of the Curragh to-
wards the close of the seventeenth century. It is probable that the
discovery of the firs situated eighteen and twenty feet deep in the
Curragh, with their roots still firm in the ground, but their heads
broken off and lying to the N.E., noted by him (p. 12), was made
at the period of this drainage. In my Memoir read before the Geo-
logical Society of London, February 4th, 1846, I made mention of
the Megaceros marl-pits at BaUaugh as drained at that period, and
stated that the white marl of these pits is more recent than the blue
marl of Jurby. On a closer examination, I find good reason for
concluding that the white marl is more ancient than the deposit of
the lakes then drained, and perhaps more ancient than the Jurby
marl, though this is apparently an alluvium older than the forests of
which the remains are found in the Curragh.

LEGEND OF MIRESCOGH. 317

a grant of one half of the fishery of it to Huan Hesketh,
Bishop of Man, by Thomas Earl of Derby. The names
of several estates in this neighbourhood (such for instance
as Elian Vane, JVhite Island) point to their original condi-
tion, as well as the nature of some of the holdings, which
show that even since the Act of Settlement, there has been
a large territory once occupied by water reclaimed to the
purposes of husbandry.

The mention of the lake Mirescogh reminds us of a
strange legend detailed by the venerable Chroniclers of
Rushen Abbey, which at any rate adds another link to the
chain of evidence which we have of the great change which
has here taken place in the appearance of the country.

In an old document at the end of the ^ Chronicon Man-
niBd/ tracing out the boundary of the church-lands, we find
mention made of three islands in the lake Myreshaw*.
-One of these islands seems to have been occupied as a
state prison, and was once, as the good old monks tell us,
the scene of a notable miracle wrought by the intercession
of St. Mary of Rushen.

One Donald, a veteran chieftain, a particular friend of
Harald Olaveson, flying the persecution raised by Harald
Grodredson, took sanctuary with his infant child in St.
Mary^s monastery at Rushen. He was however induced to

* " This is the line that divides the lands of Kirkercus fi*om the
Abbey lands. It begins at the lake of Myreshaw, which is called
Hescanappayse, and goes up to the dry moor directly from the
place called Monenyrsana, along the wood to the place called Seabba-
Ankonathway. It then ascends to Roselan as far as the brook
Gryseth, and so goes up to Glendrummy, and proceeds up the King's
way and the rock called Carigeth as far as Deep -pool, and descends
along the rivulet and Heth-aryegorman ; and so descends along
the river Sulaby to the wood of Myreshaw. It encloses three islands
in the lake Myreshaw, and descends along the old moor to Dufloch
and so winds along and ends at the place called Hescanakeppage."

L s

218 THE ISLE OF MAN.

come forth under faith of a promise from the king of per-
fect safety. Within a short space however the king^ viobi-
ting his sacred engagement^ ordered Donald to be seized
and conveyed to the state prison in one of the islands in
Mirescogh. In his distress Donald prayed earnestly to
the Lord to deUver him through the intercession of the
blessed Virgin^ from whose monastery he had been so in-
sidiously betrayed. The divine interposition was not
withheld. One day as he was sitting in his chamber
guarded only by two sentinels^ the fetters dropped from
his ankles and he found himself free. He made the best
of his way to the abbey of Kushen^ which he reached on
the third day^ where he put up thanksgivings to God and
the most merciful Mother for the deliverance. This de-
claration^ adds the chronicler^ we have recorded from the
man's own mouth. The date of the miracle is 1249*.

In proceeding inland eastward from the sea-coast, we
descend to a lower level from hills of the boulder day
formation covered with beds of blown sand, to the terrace
of drift-gravel which fringes the great plain of the Curragh.
The high road from Ballaugh to Ramsey runs for a con-
stderable distance upon this fringing bank, and forms a
drive hardly anywhere to be surpassed in loveliness. A
close planting of ash and elm on either side of it presents
an avenue for several miles in length, through the breaks
in which we catch sight of strongly contrasted scenery on
the right-hand and on the left. On the right we have a
sudden and abrupt termination of the mountain-chain,
which sinks down almost at once from its greatest altitude
to the level of the gravel terrace. The descending gorges,
which open out with a more gentle slope towards the plain,
are well clothed with wood, and have been happily seized upon
as sites for a series of beautiful villas along the whole of the
* Chronicon Maiiniie> p. 39. «

SULBY GLEN. 219

way to Bamsey. On the left-hand a fine champaign country
opens out to a distance of three or four miles^ bounded by
the line of low rounded hills which stretch from Blue Head
to Point Cranstal. We catch sight of the different home<^
steads of the farms which are scattered throughout it^
whose whitened walls and wreathing columns of smoke
are just distinguished amidst the clump of trees surround-
ing each of them; and around in the more open lands
the flocks and herds occupy the reclaimed Curraghs, which
afford rich pasturages alternating with arable land.

But if there be one point which more than any other
will attract the attention of even the most ordinary ad-
mirer of scenery, it will assuredly be Sulby glen. The
stream which waters it, and is the largest in the island, is
thrown off the north-western side of Snaefell, and pouring
down GUon-Mooar, spreads itself out on the alluvial plain,
and after a course of eight miles falls into the sea at Ramsey.
It is throughout a beautiful trout-stream, and in no small
repute with our first-rate anglers.

A fine view of the country may be obtained jiist at the
entrance to the glen from the Curragh, by following a wind«
ing road to the right-hand from the cloth mill up the side
of the hill for a short distance till we reach a stone quarry*.
At the extreme left, looking over the Curra^, is Jurby
church standing on an eminence which forms the extreme
north-western point of the island ; beyond we have a fine
view of the sea backed by the Mull of Galloway and the
Scotch mountains to the north. Looking directly north
we may track the course of the Lhen-Mooar, which was
once the outlet of the Sulby river, a gap in the drift-gravel

* The following note of this point occurs in my field-book. The
great heds of schist have the appearance of being turned over on an
axis whose strike is east and west magnetic. The stretching has pro-
duced divisional planes concentric with this axis with cross joints^
which cause the rock to split up into rhomboidal fragments.

2iO THE ISLE OF MAN.

near Blue Head admitting the passage of the waters in
that direction. The churches of St. Jude and Andreas lie
a little to the right of a line hence to Blue Head^ whence
we mark the undulating ridge stretching out eastward to-
wards Kirk Bride and Point Cranstal. This chain of hills
evidently formed at one time a line of sand-banks in the
pleistocene sea parallel to the then noithem coast of the
Isle of Man ; and at a distance of four miles from it the
Sulby stream^ which winds at our feet and sets in motion
yonder wheel, is richly clothed with wood, from the midst
of which, at a point where the waters begin to flow east-
ward, the Sulby school-house with its pointed windows and
pinnacled walls peeps forth*. To the right Cronck-y-
Shammock (the Hill of Primroses) bounds the view, shut-
ting out the neighbourhood of Ramsey. It is a singular
fantastic pile of rock standing out at the mouth of the glen,
a giant sentinel guarding the pass to the south, and keeping
watch and ward over the inhabitants of the great northern
plain of the island.

The road up Sulby glen affords the best access of any
to the summit of Snaefell (the Snow Mountain), and the
ascent may be accomplished in this direction with extreme
facility, even in a vehicle, to within a short distance of the
top. It may be approached also by the road through Glen
Aldyn (the vale of Aldyn or Aydunf), which is nearer "to
Ramsey, and equally picturesque with Sulby Glen, as well
as from Injebreck and Laxey, though the morasses on the
southern side render it necessary for strangers to use some
caution in ascending by the latter routes.

At Sulby bridge is a good road running direct north to

* The internal arrangement of the building is such as to provide
a school for week-day, and a small chapel for the Sunday services.
- t Aydun was the grandfiither of Ferquard, Fiacre and Donald,
who were sent to the Isle of Man to be educated under Bishop
Conauus, who is said to have had his q)iscopal residence in this vale.

ADMIRAL THUROT. 221

the parishes of Andreas and Bride^ and passing the Craig
and St. Jude^s church, and the old earthen fort of Balla-
Churry, which is extremely well worthy of a visit*.' In
this direction the geologist will get an excellent insight into
the structure of the northern area. The different patches
of Curragh still remaining, and their relation to the drift-
gravel, which has been excavated in many places and sifted
for road materials, come very readily under his observation.

Let us take the road on through Andreas which leads to
the Bride Hills. We pass Braust on our way, formerly
the residence of Archdeacon Mylrea, and further on Thu-
rot Cottage, which seems to have been so christened in
memory of the gallant French Commodore who fell in a
naval engagement off the northern coast of the Isle of Man.

The name of Thurot about the middle of last century
filled with apprehension the inhabitants of the sea ports
of Great Britain. A native of Dunkirk, at the age of fifteen
he joined the adventures of an Irish smuggler and became
a successful contrabandist between the shores of the two
Monas, running spirits from Man to Anglesey, and after-
wards did business on a larger and more daring scale from
the shore of his native country. By his exploits, as a pri-
vateer in the war which broke out between England and
France in 1755, he gained the command of a frigate and
afterwards (in 1759) of a squadron of five ships, with
which he made descents upon the coast of Ireland and
plundered Carrickfergus. Captain Elliot, hearing of his

* It appears to have been thrown up during the period of the
great rebellion by the troops of Cromwell. It consists of an inter-
nal rectangular area of 144 feet long by 120 feet wide, at the comers
of which are four bastions, whose tops are about forty-eight feet
square, all constructed of the earth which has been thrown up out
of the ditch which surrounded the encampment. There are a great
many barrows in the parish of Andreas, and in the churchyard some
very interesting Runic crosses.

THE ISLE OF MAN.

exploits, set sail in quest of him with three frigates, and
on rounding the Mull of Galloway on the 28th of Febru-
ary 1760, he discovered the French Commodore at anchor
with three vessels near the entrance of Luce Bay*. He
attempted to embay him, which Thurot perceiving stood
out to sea towards the Isle of Man, the scene of his earUest
adventures, but was soon overtaken by the EngUsh squa-
dron, and a sharp action ensued. The carnage on the side
of the French was very great in consequence of the crowd-
ed state of their vessels, and Thurot himself fell by a grape-
shot as he was cheering on his men to renew the fight.
He was thrown overboard by his own men, but was afters-
wards cast ashore near the Mull of Galloway, and buried
in the grave-yard of Kirkmaiden. The bowsprit of the
Belleisle, two yards in circumference, which was struck off
in the action, came ashore near Bishop's Court ; and in com-
memoration of the action and as a trophy of victory. Bishop
Hildesley caused it to be erected on a mount which he
named Mount ^olus, a little above the garden of his
episcopal residence.

The rounded form of the hills of Kirk Bride has before
been alluded to. They seem to have formed a sand-bank
in the pleistocene sea at the distance of about four miles
from the coast, and to have been subject to the action of

* The respective squadrons consisted of the .£olus 32 guns, Pal-
las 36, Brilliant 36, on the side of the English ; and on the side of
the French the Belleisle 48 guns. Blonde 36, and Terpsichore 36. The
contest lasted an hour and a half, and was attended on the side of
the English with the loss of only five men killed and thirty-one
wounded. Besides their commander, the French had above three
hundred killed and wounded in the engagement, of whom nearly two
hundred were on board the Belleisle. Thur6t had previously lost
two of his vessels at sea.

See Appendix to Memoirs of Bishop Hildesley, and Smollett's
History of England, chap. 19. page 388.

!.*ir i if

THE BBIDE HILLS. 223

conflicting currents. It is most interesting to compare
them with the rounded chain of low hills in the south of
the island of the same age, as well as with the confor-
mation of the Bahama Rig* and King William's Bank,
Whitestone's Bank, and Point of Ayre Bank of the present
day.

The view from these hills is highly picturesque in every
direction. Looking southward, we have the fine expanse
of the Curragh contrasted against the towering masses
of the great insular chain. The splendid bay of Ramsey,
with its richly wood-clad environs, the heights of Ballure,
Skyhill and Claughbane, stretches out south-eastward and is
shut in by the serrated precipices about Maughold Head.
The Cumberland mountains, at a distance of between forty
and fifty miles, present their majestic outline in the far
east. We look up the Frith of Forth, but the shores are
too low to allow the eye to rest upon any particular fea-
ture of them. It is not till we have traced round somewhat
northward that we begin to catch sight of the Scottish
giants, and then the granitic range from Crifiell toward
Kircudbright is set before us. Burrow Head, at the di-

* The Bahama Bank or Rig bears N.E. two leagues from Ramsey,
is about four miles long from S.S.E. to N.N.W., with only six feet
water at the south end low water spring-tides and is about half a
mile wide. King William's Bank (so called from the Prince of
Orange, who was nearly wrecked on it on his way to the battle of the
Boyne) is seven miles in length from S.E. to N.E. and half a mile
broad. The N.W. end is east six and a half miles from Point of
Ayre. The least depth of water on it is eighteen feet.

The Point of Ayre Bank extends half a mile from the Point for
one mile eastward and curves round to the south-east towards the
Bahama Rig. There is always a ripple on it, and the current runs
seven miles an hour.

Whitestone Bank lies S.S.E. a mile and a half from Point of Ayre,
with a good passage between them. It has six feet at low water spring-
tides, is half a mile long N. and S., and a quarter of a mile broad.

224 THE ISLE OP MAN.

stance of hardly more than seventeen miles^ appears but as
the further bank of a wide river. We get a fine peep into
Luce Bay^ which retreats some fifteen miles inland^ and is
sheltered on its western margin by the Silurian ridge which
forms the Mull of Galloway.

Immediately at our feet northward we have the Ayre
spreading out to an extent of 2400 acres^ forming an ex-
tremely low coast-line raised but a very few feet above the
present sea-level. It is very plainly the newest raised
beach of the island^ at present an almost barren waste of
sand and gravel belonging to the Crown, in which a few
miserable gorse bushes drag out an impoverished existence,
whilst rabbits, snipe and wild duck aboimd.

The light-house on the Point of Ayre, which was at first
close upon high-water mark, has now a good piece of bank
extending between it and the salt water. The height of
the tower is 106 feet ; and it is furnished with two revolving
lights, sending forth alternately every two minutes a red
and yellow pencil of rays athwart the green waves.

An extension eastward of the Bride Hills terminates in
Point Cranstal. We see in the old map of the island
that there was once a village in this neighbourhood on
the low ground of the Ayre near the little lake Balla Mooar,
to which the name of Cranston pertained ; it seems to have
gone to ruin, but is interesting as indicating the antiquity
of the last raised beach, or at any rate the very slow rising
of the land. The old town of Douglas, as was before noticed,
stands on a similar level on a raised beach of the same age.

Point Cranstal itself is in the same old map denomina-
ted " Shellack poynt.^' It is well-worthy of study as pre-
senting the finest development of the boulder series any-
where to be met with in this island, or perhaps in the Bri-
tish Isles. A grand cliff of clay, sand, gravel and boul-
ders, rises to the height of 200 feet above the sea-level. It

POINT CRANSTAL. 235

is in every stage of disintegration and decay^ seamed in a
thousand places by the little gills which bui*st out between
the beds of gravel and clay, or pour down after every heavy
rain from the corn-fields, which reach to the very edge of the
precipice. The formation of sonorous concretionary masses,
having the appearance of stalagmites and stalactites at the
base of the cliffs of the boulder series, has been noticed be-
fore at the locality of Strandhall in the south of the island,
and its origin explained*. We might have noticed the
same at many places on the Ballaugh and Jurby coasts,
but nowhere have we such fine instances as at Point Cran-
stal. Here they are piled one upon the other in most fan-
tastic shapes at the base of every gully, and even high up
in the cliff, wherever there has been a break and resting-
place where the mud-charged and calcareous waters which
have trickled over some upper beds of the boulder-clay
series could find a lodgement.

The great mass of clay, presenting not the least appear-
ance of stratification, Ues at the base of the cliff. We meet
here and there with great cavities in it filled with fine
sand ; and it is in these cavities, generally speaking, that
the more perfect fossils are found ; but they are in such a
friable state that they will hardly bear removal. The
stronger-framed fossils are generally met with in the clay,
such as Fusus antiquus and Cyprina islandica ; but a frag-
mentary condition is the most frequent with all of them,
as if the sea-bottom of the time of their deposit had been
exposed to the rolling action of great waves or the plough-
ing action of icebergs t*

* See Chap. X. supra, page 137.

t See Professor E. Forbes's Memoir on the Distribution of the
existing Fauna and Flora of the British Isles, and the Geological
Changes which have affected their area, especially during the epoch
of the Northern Drift, in the first volume of Memoirs of Geolo-.
gical Survey of Great Britain, page 383.

226 THE IStE OF MAN.

The upper portion of the pleistocene beds at Point Cran*
stal consists of rudely stratified gravels and sands^ with
occasionally interposed bands of marl. Throughout the
entire mass of the cliffy boulders of granite^ syenite^ por-
phyry^ quartz^ red conglomerate and red limestone are
dispersed^ but they appear to increase in size upwards^
and sometimes attain to the weight of several tons. Similar
blocks are scattered on the surface all over this northern
area, especially on the tops and sides of the low hills ; and
I have httle doubt that all those stones of which the circles
which surround the ancient tumuli in this country are
formed, are of this character, and were found within a very
short distance of the spot on which they now are placed.

There is a fine beach extending all the way from Point
Cranstal to Ramsey, a distance of four miles ; the cliSa of
pleistocene marl, sand and gravel, gradually sink in
height; and from the Dog-mills southward, as far as the
Sulby river, at the embouchure of which the town stands,
they are hardly more than fifty feet high. South of the
town we again find the same beach and cliff for about half
a mile, and then a hundred yards beyond the mouth of
Ballure glen, the streamlet from which has cut its way
through these drift-beds, we see the whole pleistocene
series driven up against the old schist rocks of the island,
which have here a direct northerly dip.

Let us ramble up the Ballure glen, which for quiet
beauty has not its equal on the island. Dark deep green
Woods throw their mantle over a rugged ravine, which ex-
tends for two or three miles up into the wilds of North
Barrule. A bright clear stream comes tumbling down
from crag to crag, and sprinkles a dewy freshness upon the
mosses and creeping thyme and hanging ivy which grace
its border. A bridge of a single span carries the high road
from Ramsey to Laxey across it at a point where the jag-

RAMSEY. 227

ged schists have just opened to let the streamlet tremble
and struggle through. Let us mount higher stilly and
follow a green grassy path which strikes upwards on our
right-hand^ and zigzags amongst the plantations which
crown the height immediately overlooking the town of
Ramsey. We emerge at length on a fine terrace stretching
towards Glabane and Skyhill*^ and a splendid panorama is
opened before us. The metropolis of the north lies at our
feet. It is a busy^ active town ; the mountainous district
which separates it from Douglas^ and makes the commu-
nication tedious^ has forced it into a sort of self-depend-
ence ; so that whilst Castletown has barely trebled itself in
the last hundred years^ Ramsey has much more than qua-
drupled in the same time. Its chief foreign dependence
is on Glasgow rather than Liverpool^ the steamers from
the former place southwards touching at Ramsey^ wind
and weather permitting^ and keeping up a friendly com-

* Skyhill is noted for the militaiy manoeuvre which placed the
crown of Man on the head of Godred Crov^, son of Harald the
Black of Iceland. In his attempt upon the Isle he had met with
two repulses. Once more he got together a large armament^ and
coming hy night to the harbour of Ramsey, he managed to land and
conceal a body of 300 men on Scacafell or Skyhill. At sunnse the
Manx attacked Godred with considerable fiiry ; but in the heat of
the engagement, the 300 men, rushing from their ambuscade, ter-
ribly galled the Manx in the rear, and put them to rout with great
slaughter. Godred gave his troops the option of dividii^ the Isle
amongst them for an inheritance, or of pillaging it and returning
home again. The majority chose to plunder the country ; a portion
however preferred remaining with Godred, and with them he shared
the southern part of the island, leaving the northern to the natives,
on condition that no one whatever should attempt the establishment
of an hereditary claim to any part. The property of the whole isle
and its revenues thus became vested in the Sovereign, nor till the
Act of Settlement did the people acquire a valid title to their differeat
estates.

228 THE ISLE OF MAN.

munication with the manufacturing metropolis of Scotland.
The ruined church which we see above the town on the
terrace of the northern drifts beautifully embayed in the
woods^ was erected not a hundred years ago^ and conse-
crated by Bishop Wilson himself when in the ninety-third
year of his life. The church now in use (St. Paulas) stmds
in the centre of the town, and was built by subscription in
1819. Hard by it is the Court-house, where the northern
Deemster holds his courts. A substantial bridge of three
arches, and 180 feet long, spans the Sulby river a little
westward of the town, and makes. a communication with
the northern parishes of Andreas and Bride.

The spot on which we are standing is pointed out with
a feeling of pride by the people of Ramsey as that from
which the royal consort of our beloved Queen took a sur-
vey of the outspread landscape on the morning of the
20th September of the last year, when her Majesty glad-
dened the hearts of her loyal Manx subjects by a second
visit to the shore of Old Mona on her way from Scotland.
His Royal Highness greatly commended the fair scene,
and the spot whence he surveyed it has ever since borne
his name, and is marked with a memorial pile.

Let us journey again southwards, taking the eastern
coast as our route. When we have passed Ballure glen
about a quarter of a mile, the southern road divides into
two, one of which continues to mount upwards along the
eastern face of North Barrule, the other on the left-hand
sinks down again to Fort Lewaigue*, and so on to Maug-
hbld Head.

Port Lewaigue is a sweet retired nook, and might easily
be made into a small dry harbour, conveniently auxiliary to
Ramsey. A small spur has run out from the schists in a
north-easterly direction for about 500 yards, and forms a

* Called also Port-le-Voillen.

PORT LEWAIGUE. 229

natural breakwater on the eastern side of the little creek ; if
it were continued in a northerly direction for about 200
yards further, the harbour would be sheltered from every
gale. This spur is very low, sufficiently so to be capped
by the northern drift, which has also found a resting-
place in the recess of the bay, and stretches a little distance
inland*.

On a bank by the road-side on the left-hand, as we pass
onwards towards Maughold, we fall in with a Runic monu-
inent of freestone, its height 5 feet and its width 2
feet 8 inches. Its location is singular, and would raise
a suspicion that there has once been one of the quarter-
land oratories in this neighbourhood. The entire parish
of Maughold seems at one time to have been invested with
a somewhat higher sanctity than the other parishes of the
isle ; the church has more tokens of architectural care and
embellishment ; the churchyardf is much larger than any
other, and the Runic and other ancient monuments are
more abundant]:.

* See Plate I., Map of the Isle of Man.

t It contains five statute acres. The length of the church, in-
cluding the chancel, is 72 feet and its width 17. A similar propor-
tion holds in most of the old Manx churches.

X There is one Runic stone raised on steps as a market-cross in
an open space before the church-gates, carved on both sides, though
much injured. Its length is 6 feet 6 inches, and breadth at the
widest part 2 feet 6 inches. Another on the south side of the church
(an excellent model for the headstone of a grave) is 3 feet 6 inches
in height and 2 feet 6 inches wide. A third near the eastern gable
is 7 feet 4 inches long and 2 feet 4 inches wide.

A singular cross of the fifteenth century stands at the left-hand on
entering the church-gatcs. It is raised on three steps, and consists
of a slender shaft 4 feet 10 inches high, surmounted with a peculiar
quadrangular entablature 3 feet high. The carving on two of the
faces of this entablature is greatly obliterated. On the other two
we have bas-reliefs, one of which represents the Virgin Mother and

230 THE ISLE OF MAN.

The shrine of St. Machutus^ Machaldus^ Macfield, Mac-
hilla^ Magharde, or Maughold, as he is variously styled,
who was buried here, was held in great repute down to the
period of the Reformation ; and here we find a sanctuary
was established in very early times. The legend of him is,
that originally having been captain of a band of Kerns, or
Irish freebooters, he was converted to the Christian faith
by the great apostle of Ireland, St. Patrick. Desirous of
withdrawing from the scenes of his former lawlessness, he
is said to have embarked in a frail boat made of wicker-
work and covered with hides, and committing himself to
the guidance of the Almighty, he was driven by the winds
and tides, and at length cast ashore on the Isle of Man at
the headland which still bears his name. The severity of
religious discipline to which he subsequently subjected
himself spread his fame for sanctity far and wide ; and
Manx tradition records that St. Bridget*, the famous nun,
came hither to receive the veil of perpetual virginity from
his hands, and that on the death of Romulus he was by
universal consent elected to the bishopric of the Isle. To
him, as before has been mentioned, we owe the present
division of the isle into seventeen parishes.

On the north-eastern side of that magnificent headland
which forms the southern limit of Ramsey bay, is a little
spring bursting out from the chinks of the uptilted and
twisted gray schists. Immediately above rises the pile of

Child, and the other the Crucifixion. Under the latter is a shield
bearing the arms of Man after the Scottish conquest; under the
former a shield charged with a rose contained in a garter or circle.

* The Irish dispute the truth of this legend, affirming that it was
from St. Patrick that Bridget received the veil. See supra, p. 21.
Sacheverell however says, " In this retirement it was that St. Bridget,
one of the tutelar saints of Ireland, came to receive the veil of vir-
ginity from his hand, as her nephew Cogitosus, who wrote her hfe,
informs us. .

■^^

ST. maughold's well. 231

rock, which fetching up with a fine sweep from the valley
extending between Port-le-Voillen and Port Mooar, sinks
down again precipitously nearly 500* feet into the salt
water. Veins of ironstone t and masses of quartz rock
interposed in the schists, give a variegated appearance to
the north-eastern angle of the precipice, with red and
white streaks upon a gray ground. Bound about the
spring a soft green sward clothes a few roods of ground,
and for a few yards, where it trickles in its overflowings
adown the face of the steep, a crop of rushes luxuriates.
Where the spring gushes forth the rock has been hollowed
into a small basin, and over it has been erected a simple
shed of rough unhewn blocks of the rock immediately at
hand. Hither the Saint is said to have resorted ; nor is it
altogether improbable that nearly fourteen hundred years
ago at this very font he administered the baptismal rite.
Certainly it was for many ages in great repute for its medi-
cinal properties, and was resorted to on account of its sanc-
tity by crowds of pilgrims "from all parts. Nor is it yet
forgotten. The first Sunday in the month of August calls
forth the neighbourhood to their annual visit to the well,
and bottles of the water are there and then procured,
carried away to the homes of each, and preserved for any
emergency with scrupulous care.

The peculiar sanctity of the church of St. Maughold and
its immediate precincts has just been alluded to. There is
a legend detailed in the ^ Chronicles of Man,' which, whilst
it serves to bear out this remark, is such an amusing in-
stance of the honest credulity of the Rushen Cistercians,
that it seems worth while to give it almost in extemo.

* The height of Maughold Head^ as determined barometrically by
Dr. Berger, is 475 feet.

t For an account of the iron mines of Maughold, see Appen-
dix, K.

232 THE ISLE OF MAN.

Somerled Jarl of Argyle had taken up arms against Godred
Olaveson. A sea-battle was fought between them on the
eve of the Epiphany (1156)^ with such doubtful success to ^
either^ that the next morning they came to a compromise
to divide between them the sovereignty of the Isles. Under
this compromise Somerled acquired all the Isles^ excepting
Man, south of the point of Ardnamurchan. From that
period the sovereignty of the Isles ceased to be vested in
one single person.

In the year 1 158 Somerled again with a fleet of fifty-three
ships came to Man, where encountering Godred, he de-
feated that prince, who then fled to the court of Norway to
crave assistance.

On the approach of Somerled to the Isle the second
time, the Manx people conveyed their money and valuables
to the sanctuary of St. Maughold^s Church, in hopes, says
the Chronicler, that the veneration due to St. Machutus,
added to the sanctity of the place, would secure every thing
within its precincts. After the battle, in which he was
victorious, the fleet of Somerled lay at Ramsey, and one of
his captains, Gil Colum, made a proposal to surprise the
church of St. Maughold, and at least drive off the cattle
which were feeding around the churchyard. With much
reluctance Somerled consented, pronouncing at the same
time these words ; " Let the affair rest between thee and
St. Machutus ; let me and my troops be innocent ; we claim
no share in thy sacrilegious booty .^' Gil Colum laid his
plans accordingly, arranging with his three sons to effect
the surprise at daybreak of the following morning; but as
he lay asleep in his tent at dead of night, St. Machutus
appeared to him arrayed in white linen and holding a pas-
toral staff in his hand, with which he thrice struck him in
the heart. Awaking in great terror of mind, he sent for
the priests of the church to receive his confession, but they

COBNA CREEK. 233

had no words of comfort for the dying wretch. One of
them even proceeded to pray that St. Machutus would never
withdraw his hand till he had made an end of the impious
man, and immediately he was attacked by a swarm of fiithy,
monstrous flies, and about six in the morning expired in
great misery and torture. Somerled and his whole host
were struck with such dismay upon the death of this man,
that as soon as the tide floated their ships they weighed
anchor, and with precipitancy returned home.

The road leading from Maughold to Laxey is wild in the
extreme. There are however two lovely valleys running
down to the sea, the one terminating in Coma Creek, or,
as it is sometimes called, Kennay ^ the other is that through
which the Dhoon river delivers its waters. This river, or
rather bum, takes its rise in a granitic boss, which stretches
out from the headland between Coma Creek and the mouth
of the Dhoon, on an estate known by the name of the Ba-
rony, up inland for a mile and a half towards Snaefell.
The granite is of a much more compact character than that
on South Barrule, approaching more to the condition of a
gray syenite, small particles of hornblende being substi-
tuted for the flakes of mica which appear in the granite of
the southern district of the island. It has not hitherto
been worked, but is evidently far more available than the
more inland mass on South Barrule, and its character much
more durable. It ought at least to be used on the roads
of the north-east side of the island, instead of the soft clay
schist which is too frequently laid upon them.

In passing down the hill into the Laxey Valley, on the
right-hand side, at the turn of the road, is a cairn which it
has been asserted is the resting-place of the ancient war-
rior King Orry, to whom the island is indebted for the in-
stitution of the House of Keys. A few years back the
owner of the property on which it stands not having the

234 THB ISLE OF MAN.

fear of fairy or phynydorree before liis eyes^ bat seeing the
stones lying convenient for a fence he was bnsy on, set to
work to remove some of the lesser from the central heap of
apparent mbbish in which they were fixed ; in doing this
he discovered a rude dome-shaped vault, in the centre of
which was a kistvaen composed of two large slabs of schist,
placed paraUel to each other in a direction nearly east and
west, but inclining towards each other above, at the extre-
mities of which seem originally to have been placed verti-
cally thin slabs of the same rock which had been broken.
Inside were a few brittle bones and teeth of a horse, and
here the search was discontinued. The discovery of the
remains of the horse is so rare ia barrows which can be
determined of the date of the ancient Britons, that in the
absence of other evidence it may be safe to attribute this at
Laxey to an early period of the possession of the island
by the Northmen. This kistvaen is evidently but one of
a number collected at the spot, and further careful research
would probably be attended with most interesting results.

As we descend the hill a few hundred yards further and
before entering the village, the position of a patch of the
drift-gravel platform through which the road has been cut
should attract notice, as it is one of the few links along
the eastern coast which connects the great expanse of that
series in the north of the Isle with the gravel, sands and
day of the same age in the south.

Laxey valley and village, Laxi baye and towne, as the
old chronicler Speed has it, is sufSiciently beautiful to merit
a special visit to itself. There is also a bustle about the
place caused by the hands employed in the neighbouring
mines and the paper-mill, which comes very unexpectedly
upon us whether we journey through it northward or
southward. So deep in fact is the glen, so precipitous the
mountain sides which hedge it in, that were it not for the

LAXEY. 235

many wreaths of smoke which come curling up out of thia
great natural cavity^ even within a very short distance^ we
should hardly suspect that we were near the clustered ha^
bitations of men. The ascent of Snaefell may be very
well accomplished in this direction^ as has before been
noticed ; and on the road a mile and a half up the valley
we pass the entrance to the mines^ from which very large
and valuable shipments of copper^ lead and zinc have been
and continue to be effected. The village of Laxey is situ-
ated in the parish of Lonan^ and by taking the left-hand
road which turns up by the school-house near the wooden
bridge a mile up the stream^ we shall soon reach the old
parish churchy where there are to be seen two Bunic crosses
in excellent preservation and well worth study. One of them
stands in the church-yard on the south side of the churchy
the other on a mound between forty and fifty yards from
the church on the north side.

We turn again into the Douglas road about a mile from
Laxey ; and a mile still further brings us to a small circle
of twelve stones on the southern side of a Uttle ravine^ one
of which^ six feet high^ is remarkable as being cloven from
top to bottom^ and hence it is presumed that the name
cloven-stones which has been given to the spot originated.
It has however been conjectured that the word cloven is a
corruption of clovan^ and this again from Kirk Lovan* or
Lomanf^ the ancient name of the parish. The tradition
of the spot is that a Welsh prince was here slain in an in-
vasion of the island^ and that these stones mark the place

* In the patent given to William Earl of Derby in the seventh
year of the reign of James I., we read the name of this pariah Kirk
Lovan.

t St. Lomanus, son of Tygrida, one of the three holy sisters of St.
Patrick; is said hy tradition to have succeeded St. Maughold in the
bishopric. See Sac^everell's Account of the Isle of Man, page 120,

286 THE ISLE OF MAN.

of his interment. Mr. Feltham mentions the discovery in
the centre of the circle of a stone sepulchral chest or kist-
vaen ; and in the view which he has given of it as existing
at the time of his visits there is the clear indication of a
coved roof of stones forming an arched vault in the centre
of the mound.

We pass onward^ and the mountains and valleys of the
south side of the isle open, gradually upon our view. We
leave Clay Head on our left-hand^ forming the southern limit
of Laxey Bay. Here is Growdale^ with its quiet sheep-
walks and gently purling bum. Crossing White Bridge
and ascending the opposite slope^ Onchan comes into view^
with the richly- wooded grounds of Bamahague. We have
the choice of two roads into Douglas^ both of them afford-
ing most happy views of its bay; and though we have
looked upon many a fair scene of valley and fell, water and
wood, in journeying round the Isle, still does this arrogate
to itself in each respect those feelings of entire satisfaction
which it awoke when first it was spread before our eyes.

A SUMMARY. 237

CHAPTER XV.

Lithological character of the Isle of Man. — Granite Bubbles. — Great
extent of schistose formations. — ^The Isle of Man existing as such
in the Devonian period. — No disturbance between the Old Red
conglomerate and Carboniferous limestone. — The lower and up-
per Limestone series. — Eruption of Trap rocks and interpola-
tion in Carboniferous beds. — Great gap between the Carbonife-
rous and Glacial deposits. — The Glacial epoch. — Subsidence and
emergence of the Island. — Its present condition.

Considering the Isle of Man lithologically^ it may be
stated as consisting to the amount of three-fourths of it of
a series of schists mantling apparently round bosses of
granite, these granitic domes or nuclei being arranged in a
rather irregular curved Une running in a general direction
from S.W. to N.E. There is no appearance of the granite
having been pushed up in a solid state through the schists,
nor again of its having overflowed the surface* in the
manner of basaltic rocks ; but it seems to have risen up in
a semifluid condition, in gigantic bubbles (if we may so
speak) of molten matter, forcing itself in amongst the
schists wherever they gave way.

These granitic bosses appear at the surface in two locali-
ties, in consequence most probably of the schists which
enveloped them having suffered denudation.

Both these localities are on the south-eastern side of
the great range of mountains which divide the island, the
one near the head of the Dhoon river betwixt Laxey and

* I believe that in the streamlet near the Foxdale mines, where
the granite appears to overlie the schist, it is simply a case of intru-
sion along the line of contact.

288 THE ISLE OF MAN.

Ramsey*^ and the other ou the eastern side of South
Barrule^ on the road between Castletown and St. John's
Valet* The schists in contact with the granite have been
completely metamorphosed^ and as we recede from these
nuclei^ pass regularly through the stages of a gneissose
rock and mica- schist into clay and grauwacke- schist. Of
the geological age of the schists we have no good criterion^
the few undetermined fucoids or corallines in the newer
portion being insufficient guides ; they are probably^ as far
as developed, lower Silurian. Their texture is, generally
speaking, softer than the Cambrian or Snowdonian rocks,
and the slaty cleavage (if it exist at all) seems very im-
perfectly developed.

There is little reason to doubt that these schists were
deposited in a deep sea. At Spanish Head, where they are
nearly horizontal, we have seen that they are more than
800 feet in vertical thickness {, of a peculiar fibrous kind,
not apparently metamorphosed, and yet giving not a trace
of organized life, and these rocks form but a small portion
of the entire series. Now, as every particle of these sedi-
mentary rocks must have been derived from the destruc-
tion and degradation of pre-existing igneous rocks (ex-
cepting of course such as may be attributed to animal
secretions from the waters of the primaeval ocean), we must
soon come to the conclusion that an enormous period was
requisite for the aqueous deposition of the schistose series
alone. Where the continent or land was, the degradation
of which furnished the materials for this series, is entirely
a matter of speculation.

It is evident however that there was an elevation of the

* See the last chapter, p. 233, and Plate I.
t See Chapter XII. p. 176, and Plate I., general section across
the island.
t See Chapter XI. supra, p. 147.

PALEOZOIC PERIOD. 239

Consolidated sea-bottom of the Silurian age at the com-
mencement of the middle palaeozoic period^ as the old red
sandstone and conglomerate of the island rest on the up-
turned edges of the older schists.

Of the existence of some portion also of these schists
above the level of the sea^ so as to form an island^ or series of
islands^ at the time of the Old Red Sandstone formation^ we
have seen evidence at several points along the edge of the
southern basin of the island^ the conglomerate occurring as
a mass of small white quartz pebbles in a carbonaceous paste
only a few feet in thickness*, though further down towards
the centre of the basin it attains a thickness of from fifty
to sixty feet, and in all cases is unconformable to the schists,
though passing conformably upwards into the dark lime-
stones and shales; and it is evident that whatever cause
elevated the schists, throwing them off to the S.E. by S.
and N.W. by N. of the central ridge, has given to the island
its general form.

Hitherto no boulders of the central granite have been
found in the old red conglomerate, which is negative evi-
dence against the hypothesis of its having at that time been
brought to the surface. Still it may have been (and most
probably was) the elevating agent, rising up in its charac-
teristic dome shape, and metamorphosing the schists by its
molten contact and subsequent cooling. The secondary
devations on the island seem due to an outburst of por-
phyries at a subsequent periodf.

There is no evidence of any disturbance having taken
place between the deposit of the old red sandstone and
the mountain limestone ; the former passes into the latter
with a most easy gradation by an abstraction of the larger

* See Chapter V. supra, p. 44.

t As in the case at Rock Mount : see general section across the
Island, Plate I.

THE ISLE OF MAN.

quartz pebbles^ and the substitution of^ firsts a brown are-
naceous, and then of a dark calcareous matrix for the fer-
ruginous paste of the lower portion.

The fossils too of the carboniferous series set on (so to
speak) before the quartz pebbles of the old red conglo-
merate have ceased. This we have seen to be the case in
the south of the island at leasts where alone the passage
can be regularly observed*.

In the neighbourhood of Peel, which is the only other
locality where the old red sandstone is discovered, the
beds are of an increased thickness, attaining about 300
feet, and are in the character chiefly of a workable sand-
stone. Here the overlying limestone is not seen, having
in fact been denuded from the elevated beds ; but there is
no doubt of its position not far out at sea, as indicated in
the geological section across the island f, as boulders of it
occur plentifully along the shore, and have been collected
at various times for burning into lime. There appears to
have been a small patch of it also at one time on the edge
of the cliflf near Craig MalUn, which has been entirely con-
verted into lime, in the kilns of which the ruins still exist.
The old red sandstone in this locality, just under the pre-
sumed position of the limestone, is extremely calcareous,
and effervesces largely with acids, yet contains its own
characteristic fossils, as, for instance, Favosites polymorpha.

The carboniferous series, as developed in the south of
the island, is divided into two portions in its lowest mem-
bers ; it consists of thick beds of dark limestone, alter-
nating with thin bands of shale ; the lifts of limestone
not being equally calcareous, or alike convertible into lime
when burnt, and it is remarkable that the most fossiliferous
^re the least suited to that end.

* See p. 44, supra. f See Plate I.

UPPER LIMESTONE BEDS. 241

On a comparison of the fossils of this division with those
of the carboniferous series in other parts of the British
Isles, we find them remarkably agreeing with the lower
Northumbrian type, or still more closely with the series
developed in the neighbourhood of Hook Point in the
south of Ireland ; they may very well be compared also
with the Kendal beds. Scarlet, the western horn of Castle-
town Bay, is however still alone in its glory of possessing
the beautiful fossU which was first noticed there, the Go-
niatiies Hemhmi'^y of which the original is in the Wood-
wardian Museum at Cambridge.

The upper division of the carboniferous series, as seen
in the south of the island, indicates, by its different and
extremely abundant fauna, that a change took place in the
physical condition of the basin in which the deposit took
place, probably in consequence either of the filling up or
elevation of the then sea-bottom.

The black carbonaceous mud which previously was depo-
sited in this area seems not to have been favourable to
organized existence, or the sea may have been too deep for
the more abundant species of the lower scar limestone.
Certsdn it is that the two series of dark and light-coloured
limestone differ as much in their contained fauna as in
their lithological appearance. They have comparatively
few species in common, and those which are common are
mostly such as have a great vertical range.

The light-coloured limestones again seem separately di-
visible into (so to speak) zones of life ; and thus we see,
even within the very limited area of this basin, that, as in
the present day, so also in the palaeozoic period, there were
certain ranges of depth within which each animated species
was confined, and that whenever, from any cause the sea-

* Named in the Dean of Westminster's Bridgewater Treatise
Ammonites Henslowii.

242 THE I8]:.E OF HAN.

bottom was elevated or depressed^ certain species died out^
and others came in to take their place*.

There were other subsequent changes in the physical
condition of this area within the carboniferous period of a
still more remarkable nature. A violent convulsion (which
may be traced in its effects more particularly along a line
running from the Stack of Scarlet through Foolvash)
crumpled up the strata into a series of folds t^ and formed
a number of troughs or smaller basins for the reception <^
a new and peculiar deposit. There was at first a large
outpouring of trap, which, where it has flowed over the
limestone, has greatly metamorphosed it ; in some cases
indeed transforming it into pure dolomite. Whilst, on the
one hand, the more violent eruption seems to have been
but of short continuance, it is evident also that the vent
(wherever it might be) was kept open, and emitted for a
lengthened period volcanic ash, which was carried by the
currents and deposited quietly in different parts of this
area.

We have seen indications indeed that the deposit went
on so quietly, or was poured out only at such intervals, as
not very greatly to interfere with the development of
organized life j:. We find fossils imbedded as regularly in
the beds of volcanic ash as in the limestone beds. We
find also a very interesting local deposit of black carbona-
ceous mud (very similar to that forming the earUer shales
of the basin) going on at the same time, and mingled with
the volcanic products, the prevalence of one or other in
any particular locality depending, it would seem, on the
relative distance of that locality from the sources of the
respective ingredients there deposited. We may easily

* See List of Carboniferous Fossils, Appendix Q.
t See Plate VII. sections 2 and 3.
X See Chap. X. supra, p. 129.

POSIDONIAN SCHIST. 243

explain the appearances^ by supposing a river whose waters
were charged with a carbonaceous silt^ having its embou-
chure in the neighbourhood, and thus mixing its contents
with the quiet outpouring of a subaqueous volcanic vent
at no great distance. At one period, indeed, the carbona-
ceous deposit seems to have entirely prevailed, perhaps the
volcanic action entirely ceased, gathering strength for a
subsequent eruption. The bed then formed has its own
lithological charact^ and fossils. It is the Posidonian schist
or black Poolvash marble so largely used for economic pur-
poses*.

I have termed it Posidonian schist, from the circum-
stance of its containing the Posidonia in great abimdance,
and as its characteristic fossil. But it is also otherwise re-
markable. It contains, on the one hand, Favosites Goth-
Umdica, hardly hitherto considered a carboniferous fossil ;
and on the other hand, we find in it the first and only
traces of coal-plants met with on the island. I have in
my possession a beautiful cone of Lepidostrobus omatus.

like all the other shale beds, this abounds in sulphuret
of iron, and in one particular layer the contained fossils
have become converted into that mineral: they are ex-
quisitely beautiful, and give- us the idea that they are &(ome
of nature^s electrotypes. Every line and every curve of
the original has been preserved with the closest exactness,
as we perceive by a comparison with the corresponding
species in the limestone beds. And as the surface of many
of them presents the appearance of burnished copper coins,
the illusion is complete.

This quiet and regular deposit was afterwards suddenly

interrupted. The volcanic action was again exhibited with

renewed violence, as at the first. The lower beds of the

first eruption, together with the beds of volcanic ash, of

* See Chap. X. supra, p. 130.

244 THE ISLE OP MAN.

mixed trappsean ash and calcareous deposits^ and Fosido*
nian schists, were contorted, broken up, reduced to a frag-
mentary condition and enveloped in the outpoured deposits.
There results a trap-breccia, in which the fragments of the
older beds seem to have been considerably influenced by
heat. The Posidonian schist has become cherty, the lime-
stone highly crystalline, and in some cases hardly di-
stinguishable from amygdaloid.

It is an extremely interesting question, as to whether
the trap-dykes which stretch across several portions of this
basin in a direction a little to the south of east and north
of west, were or were not the accompaniments of this erup-
tion. In the only spot (Poolvash Bay) where they can be
seen in connection with it, they seem to merge into the
breccia, and the impression consequently is that it was the
overflow of the dykes which assisted in forming that breccia,
and that the convulsion and contortion of the inferior beds
was contemporaneous with the formation of the cracks from
which the trap poured forth. There is good evidence to show
that whenever the trap did flow forth, forming the dykes,
it did not merely find vent through pre-existing cracks,
but that the eruption also was the cause of those cracks
which it filled ; and it seems to have forced itself in also
between the beds of conglomerate and the tough superior
limestone. Should any clear evidence hereafter arise
showing that the trap-dykes are posterior to the trap-
breccia, it must still be impossible to fix their exact date,
as they may range through the whole of the mesozoic or
secondary, and a large portion of the kainozoic or tertiary
periods; the next deposits superior to the trap-breccia
being those of the pleistocene formation.

In this interval however must at any rate be fixed the
protrusion of those porphyritic masses which, as we before
said, seem to have formed the secondary elevations on the

AGE OF PORPHYRIES. 245

island^ and perhaps contributed a lift to the central chain.
This period seems to be fixed in the following manner*
If we examine (as an instance) the ridge running from
Rock Mount * near St. John's towards Cronk Urley, at both
which places the porphyry is discovered^ we shall find that
it was the elevation of this ridge which gave the high angle
to the old red sandstone of Peel (to which also the lime«
stone is conformable). But the pleistocene formation at
Peel appears to rest quietly on the up-turned edges of the
old red sandstone.

Again^ the great fault running from Perwick Bay
through Port St. Mary^ Strandhall and Athol Bridge^ in a
direction nearly N.E. by N., cutting off at once all the
carboniferous series to the N.W. of this hne, seems closely
connected with these porphyries^ which are developed
almost continuously along the fault. Since this fault took
place a great denuding force has swept over the island^
and has planed down both sides of the fault to the same
levels and the boulder-clay formation lies evidently undis-
turbed continuously across the line of disturbance f*
And we have similar evidence on Langness^ at Coshnaha*
win^ and the whole way to Santon Head.

It seems not unlikely that the same denuding action
which^ as we have just stated^ swept away so large a portion
of the carboniferous series in the southern basin^ reducing
to the same level the beds on each side of the fault, laid
bare the granitic boss on the eastern side of South Barrule^
for the boulders of that granite appear in the boulder clay,
but not in any previous formation.

We thus arrive at the conclusion, that, if we except the
low extended area of the tertiary formation in the north of

* See Plate I. General section across the Island,
t See Chap. XI* p* H3^ supra, and Plate VII., section 1^ with
comparison of Plates II. and III.

246 THE ISLE OF MAN.

the island^ its present physical appearance was attained in
great part in the secondary and earlier tertiary periods.
Whether in the entire interval between the carboniferous
and glacial deposits it was above the waters of the sea^ and
therefore not receiving on its surface the beds of the Per-
mian^ Triassic, Liassic^ Oolitic and Cretaceous series, or
whether after having received some or all^ and having been
elevated above the sea^level it was denuded of all of them
in succession down to the Carboniferous, and including a
portion of it, is quite uncertain. It is evident that either
may have been the case, yet neither of these views is without
its difficulties'!^.

The period of the boulder-clay formation on the island
manifestly commenced vrith a state of atmospheric con-
ditions very different to that existing in the carboniferous
epoch or those now existing.

Those conditions seem to belong to a severe climate t-
It appears impossible to exclude the agency of ice in the
greater part of that formation, though how far this may
have been aided in its effects by extraordinary currents and
waves of translation, originated perhaps by the upheaval
of mountain-chains or extensive tracts of land above the
ocean, is still a question sub judice. The facts bearing
upon the question have presented themselves in the course
of our journeys, and I am not without hope that the Isle
of Man itself may be found hereafter to afford the key to
the unlocking this mystery.

Very distinct evidence, as we have seen, is presented in
the south of the island, that vast masses of clay, sand,
gravel and fragments of rocks must have been forced along
by powerful currents in definite directions. Underneath

* The fonner hypothesis would be most consistent with the views
which I have expressed at p. 118^ Chap. IX. supra,
t See list of Pleistocene fossils. Appendix R.

THE BOULDER DEPOSIT. 247

the boulder-day formation there^ the rocks of the limestone
series are grooved and scratched in a remarkable manner.
The lines are not always continuous^ but seem struck out
as if by some sharp body brought in contact, suddenly
pushed forward and then elevated again*. The fragments
of rock also in the boulder-clay formation are themselves
scratched and grooved, and when they can be determined
as belonging to the island not much rounded. Indeed
there is every indication that they were not rolled but
pushed along whilst held tight in some matrix ; and what
matrix supplying all the requisite conditions can we so
readily conjecture as ice ? The effects of that agent in the
present day on the shores of our Arctic and Subarctic seas
and rivers t so closely correspond with the appearances
presented to the geological inquirer as belonging to the
period of the boulder clay or pleistocene formation |, that
we can hardly resist the argument for the identity of the
agency in both cases.

The lower portion of the boulder deposit is the more loamy.
Perhaps this may argue that it was originated in a muddy
and deep sea, and the included fossils point to the same
hypothesis. Yet the ploughing-up by icebergs of a sea-
bottom, consisting of Umestones and shales, tilted so as to
present a series of basset edges to the drifting currents,
must have contributed largely to the materials of this for^
mation. And it has been noticed, as remarkably confirma-*
tory of this view, that the boulder clay to the leeward of
any particular rock relatively to the drifting current has
the predominant colour and mineral contents of that rock ;
to the leeward for instance of the basset edge of the old
red sandstone it has a reddish tinge, of the limestone and
shales a dark dingy blue.

* See Chap. IX. p. 115, supra.

t As in tbe instance adduced, p. 117$ supra.

% Seep. 113, supra*

248 THE ISLE OF MAN.

It will readily be conceded, that in such a climate and in-
sular locality, the loftier mountains might generate glaciers,
bringing down large accumulations of detrital matter, with
angular and scratched fragments of rocks. As yet how-
ever no distinct evidence has presented itself of such glaciers
having existed on the Isle of Man. The small elevation
and extent of its mountains above the then sea-level would
by some perhaps be considered hardly favourable to their
development, though modem researches have shown that in
islands within the arctic regions glaciers descend even to
the sea-level*. But the icy waves (especially if aided by
storms) must have acted powerfully in the degradation of
the shales, whilst masses of gravel and sand frozen into
coast-ice would be carried onwards by the currents, which,
hurried through the different channels, and being arrested
in their course by any more elevated object, would become
packed, and form heaps of gravel, sand and clay on the de-
liquescence of the ice.

The formation of long ellipsoidal hillocks, whose major
axis (so to speak) is in the direction of the general drifting
current (as shown by the subjacent scratched rocks), is a
very remarkable fact, and has been well-studied in the
south of the island ; whether they were so formed originally
beneath the sea, or have attained the shape through the
action of currents at a period of gradual elevation, it may
not at present be safe to say. That after a long continu-
ance of depression there was for some time again a gradual
elevation of the sea-bottom seems pretty clear, and that the
sea itself subsequently became of a less muddy characterf
is also evident ; the upper portion of the boulder deposit

* See 'Recberches sur les Glaciers, les Glaces Flotautes, les
D^p6ts Erratiques, &c.,' by Mons. Jules Granges. Paris, 1846.
See also p. 27, supra.

t See the Memoir of Professor £. Forbes in the first volume of
the Geological Survey of Great Britain, pp. 383 and 385^

GRANITE BOULDERS. 249

cot^sisting largely of rolled pebbles^ gravel and sand^ gene-
rally in waved layers, with very little clay. The contained
rocks too in the upper portion, as we have seen, are more
generally foreign than in the lower. We should be pre-
paired to expect this, as presuming the boulder-clay series
at the commencement of its formation to have been origi-
nated in the manner we have described, in at first a gra-
dually deepening sea and without any extraordinary action
of denuding waves ; it would follow, that after a time, when
the sea-bottom became well-covered by this deposit, the
further degradation of the inferior rocks by the ploughing
action of the icebergs would cease.

In speaking of the commencement of the boulder-clay
formation, as presenting to us no problems requiring
necessarily a violent diluvial action for its solution, it is
not intended that no such action existed at any period of
the deposit. On the contrary, there are phsenomena which
point to the probability at least, that enormous waves with
vast carrying force must have swept over the surface of the
island at a later period of the formation. The general
appearance of its eastern, as compared with its western
side, described by Swedish naturalists under the term
stoss seite or weathered side, indicates in some measure that
fact, and also the direction of such action. But the
evidence which tends most powerfully to the establishment
of such a view, is to be read in the phsenomena presented
to us on the western side of South Barrule. We have
noticed there*, on its western side, and even within a hun-
dred feet of its summit, large boulders of the same granite
which is developed on its eastern side more than 600 feet
below the summit. No simple carrying action of icebergs
can have transported these blocks up the very steep eastern

* See Chap. XII. p. 177, supra,

M 5

250 THE ISLE 07 MAN.

face of the mountain and so over to the other side^ bnt we
can imagine the extraordinary action of great waves acting
on masses of ice charged with these granitic blocks, and
bearing them to a considerable elevation above the then
sea-level. We must either grant this, or suppose an eleva-
tion of the mountain chain to the westward of the granitic
boss since the deposit of the blocks on the top and western
side of South Barrule, but of such elevation no independent
evidence has been as yet discovered.

There is some reason, as I said, for concluding a gradual
elevation again of the island towards the close of the
boulder-clay deposit, and that the singular low rounded
hills of that formation, which are observable both in the
south of the island, and in the north on a line from Point
Cranstal to Blue Head, are due to the beating about of the
waves and the action of currents at such period. It ap-
pears however that when this gradual elevation had pro-
ceeded to some extent, there was a long-continued rest,
during which the great platform of drift-gravel was de-
posited, in part formed by the degradation of the upraised
masses of the previous boulder-clay deposit. In this drift
there is little or no clay; coarse sands alternate with beds
of gravel, and occasionally there are some large foreign
boulders in it, especially on the surface.

In some parts of the island (but more especially on the
north-western coast between Peel and Kirk Michael) there
are appearances as if the boulder clay had been worn down
and its surface swept clean before the deposit of the drift-
gravel was formed upon it. In other cases the gravel has
filled up hollows in the boulder clay, not in horizontal
layers, but in layers which are concentric vrith the bound-
ing surfaces of these depressions, indicating a shallow sea.

On the surface of this drift-gravel, as we have just
noticed, we often fall in with large boulders, sometimes

DUIFT-GRAVBL. 251

laingle^ at other times several of them together. They are
also occasionally met with on the tops of the low hills of the
boulder deposit^ and on the eastern slopes of the moun-
tains : they have been most probably dropped on the
melting of drift-ice which has grounded.

The elevating process seems again to have set on after
a time, and during that elevation there was considerable
denudation of the drift-gravel. The great depression now
occupied by the Curragh in the north of the island, seems
to have been formed at this period ; the vaUeys of St. John,
Baldwin and Spring Valley in the centre, and the long
valleys in the south, are evidently coeval and originated by
like causes. They have assumed their present form, as is very
readily perceived, in consequence of the particular arrange-
ment of the subjacent palseozoic rocks, forming natural
breakwaters in particular locahties, and preventing the
removal of the gravel by the beating of the waves at the
period of elevation. In the unprotected places, the denu-
dation has proceeded down to the boulder clay, which, from
being in its lower portion of a rather tougher texture, has
resisted the denuding action longer, though in some in-
stances the denudation has proceeded to the surface of the
older rocks.

It will perhaps be always impossible to determine
the extent to which the elevation of the sea-bottom con-
tinued.

My own conviction is, that the greater portion of the
area now occupied by the Irish Sea became dry land, and
formed extensive plains occupied by many freshwater lakes.
There is no reasonable ground for doubting that the Isle
of Man became connected by such means with England,
Scotland and Ireland. Over these plains roamed the stately
Megaceros, and in these lakes he was frequently mired*.
* See Chap. VII. supra, p. 81.

252 THE ISLE OF MAN.

At the same time England would be united with the
continent of Europe, and opportunity would be given for
the emigration into the British Isles of the various tribes
of animals which appear to have inhabited them at this
period. Professor E. Forbes has most elaborately worked
out the same result &om considerations of the flora of the
British Isles, as compared with foreign types*.

What ages may have elapsed with such a condition of
land and water in this portion of the northern hemisphere I
The inland lakes became filled up with alluvium and peat
by the ordinary and slow operations which we see now
going on, and vast forests of oak, pine, ash and birch grew
up and covered the surface of the country.

We have however further evidence that a depression of
this area again took place. The forests were overthrown
perhaps by the incursion of the sea, and covered by marine
deposits. The different races of animals then existing
were perhaps in part destroyed, the remainder betook
themselves to the higher grounds and the mountains, and
became isolated.

Perhaps amongst them the Megaceros Hibemicus may
be included, though we have not as yet any distinct evi-
dence of his existence after the growth of the great forests.
Further immigration from the continent of Europe was
then stopped.

But again the elevatory process commenced, a process
which may be slowly carried on up to the present time.
The submerged forests have again in part re-appeared
above the waves of the sea. The Gurragh and the lakes it
contained, as also those in the south of the island of which
we have historical records, have been one after the other
drained ; land has been reclaimed from the sea in the open*

* See his valuable paper on the Flora of the Isle of Man, Appen-
dix S.

ATMOSPHERIC AGENTS. 253

ings of some of the alluvial valleys, though the work of
destruction still proceeds, aided by the ordinary atmo-
spheric operations of wind, rain and frost at more exposed
portions of the tertiary formation, where it presents cliffs
to the action of the breakers*.

* For a report of the Meteorology of the Island, see Appendix,
NoteT.

" ^y^^^tv^ifiit^ V "-"-^ -

APPENDIX.

A. Page 1.

The names wbicli have been given at different times to this
navel of the Irish Sea, as Gildas calls it^ are as various as the
methods of spelling that under which it is now generally known,
The following notice in Camden is interesting : — " More north-
ward Heth that Mona whereof Csesar maketh mention, in the
mids of the cut, as he saith, betwen Britain. and Ireland.
Ptolemee termeth it Moneda, as one would say Mon-eitha, that
is, if I may be allowed to conjecture, the more remote Mona, to
put a difference between it and the other Mona, t. e. Anglesey.
Plinie Monabia, Orosius Menavia, and Bede Menavia Secunda,
i.e. Second Menavia, where he termeth Mona or Anglesey
Menavia Prior, i. e. former Menavia, and calleth them both
islands of the Britons, in which writers, notwithstanding, it is
read amisse, Menavia. Ninius, who also goeth abroad under
the name Gildas, nameth it Eubonia and Manau, the Britons
Menow, the inhabitants Manning, . and we Englishmen the
yle of Man."— Folio Edition, Scotland, p. 203, letter E.

The translator of * Polydore Vergil ' says, " There are
manie iles adjacent to Britayne, and two of indifferent fame, —
the one called the Isle of Wighte beinge against the south
bancke of England ; the other ilond, beinge somewhat famous,
is the Isle of Mone, or Man, by the exchaunge of one letter,
which one the north side enclineth toward Scotlande, south-
eastward towards Englond, on the weste towards Irelonde.
In olde time, whensoever there appeared decrease or ebbe in

256 APPENDIX A.

the ocean, it was dmded with so small a sea, and was so near
with the lande, that a man might have gone thereunto without
shippinge, which thinge (as Cornelius Tacitus recordethe) was
donne of the Romaines. There are some which dare affirme
that jt is the He of Mone which men call Anglesea, beinge
nearer Walles."

The inhabitants themselves call the island Mannin or Elian
Yannin (Isle of Mann). Amongst the derivations of the name
we may note the ingenious one of Bishop Wilson, who says,
" The Isle of Man very probably had the name it goes by now
from the Saxon word mang, among, as lying almost at an
equal distance between the kingdoms of England, Scotland,
Ireland, and Wales."

Mr. Feltham (copying from Mr. Quayle's MS.) says, " Some
suppose the word to originate from Maune, the name of St.
Patrick, the apostle of the island, before he assumed that of
Patricius." It is however hardly necessary to observe, as de-
structive of both these derivations, that the name Mona, from
which Man is clearly taken, was applied to the island long
before the days of St. Patrick, or the Saxon occupation of
England. It is in ancient British that we must look for the
derivation, and the word M6n, and isolated may be adduced as
a not improbable root. I am however myself inclined to de-
rive it from *Maen,' a pile of stones or rocks ; the rather from
observing that in other instances this word has passed through
similar changes to that which we see in the. name of this
island. Whilst we have in Wales * Pen-maen-mawr ' (Great
head-stone), ' Maen-twrog ' (the stone of Twrog), and so on,
in which the root occurs ; a pile of stones as a mark on the
top of a mountain which the Welsh call Maen is in Cumber-
land (the land of the Cymry, Cimbri or ancient Britons) called
Man, Whilst we have Caernarvon (Caer-yn-ar-fon), the fort
over against Mona, i. e.. Anglesey ; close by it is the Menai
Strait (the strait of the water of Mono), in which the letter
"e" of Maen seems retained*. By inspecting the following

* There is in the Baltic an island called Moen.

APPENDIX B.

257

table the character of the different changes will at once he
perceived : —

Caesar and Tacitus ...

Mona*

Ptolemy

Movaoidat Movapivay Mova vtivw,
Monabia.

Pliny

Orosius

Menavia.

Bede

Menavia secunda.

Gildas

Manau and Eu-^^n-ia.

Britons

Menow.

Manx •

Mannin.

English

Man.

Page 12.

On the title-page to Mr. Feltham's * Tour through the Isle
of Man in 1797 and 1798,' is given a view of a round battle-
mented tower which stood at the extremity of the Pollock-
rock, which forms a kind of jetty at the entrance to Douglas
Harbour ; it was pulled down in 1 8 1 8 as inconvenient. Waldron
attributes its erection to the Romans. In the centre of it was a
small round tower rising up above the rest of the building, which
is said to be a peculiar feature in presumed Pictish raths. It
was at any rate, whether Roman or Pictish, a most interesting
memorial of the earliest days of the Isle, and might well have
been permitted to remain whilst time would let it*.

Though remains of the Romans on the island are few and
of a very uncertain character, there is every probability that
they were at one time masters of itf. On their departure

* The fort is thus mentioned in Mr.Quayle's MS. History of the Isle
of Man : — '* Douglas hath alsoe a most considerable fort strongly built of
bard stone round in forme, upon which are a mounted tower, and four
pieces of ordinance. It is commanded by a Constable and Lieutenant.
The Constable and two of the soldiers (which are there in continual pay)
are bound to lye in this fort every night ; and four of the townsmen are
bound to keep watch and ward upon the rampart betwixt the fort and the
towne."

t SachevereU spates that he puts no faith in a story quoted in Mr.
Quayle's MS. out of John Capgrave's Life of Joseph of Arimathsa, viz. that

258 APPENDIX B.

from Britain it fell into the hands of the Scots. Camden
quotes a passage from Gildas to the effect, that in the reign of
the Emperors Arcadius and Honorius (a.d. 395) a Scot of the
name of Bnde, or Brude, had possession of the Isle. This
agrees very well with the statement of Chaloner, that this
" island was first of all inhabited by the ancient Scots, that is
to say, by the Irish or Highlanders of Scotland.'' — Chaloner,
chap. iy. p. 9. They seem to have had quiet possession
during the whole of the fifth century, in which period the
island was visited by the mission of St. Patrick*, and the
Church settled under the Bishops Conindrius, Romulus, Maug-
hold and Germanus.

At the commencement of the sixth century it seems to have
shared in the troubles of the surrounding countries, for we
learn from the ' Annals of Ulster,' that in a.d. 503 there was
war in Man under the conduct of Aodan, or Aydun ; and Sa-
cheverell notices from the ' Antiquities of Glastonbury,' that
*' about A.D. 520 King Arthur conquered this Isle, which he
generously restored to the native prince, and afterwards ad-
mitted him among his Knights of the Bound Table."

The more probable story however is that related in Rowland's
* Monastic Antiquities,' viz. that Maelgwyn, nephew to Arthur,
conquered the island from the Scots, and as an acknowledge*
ment of his valour was admitted a Knight of the Bound
Table. It was however recovered from his son Bhun by Aydun
M'Gabhran, king of Scotland, in a.d. 581 (according to the
'Annals of Ulster'), who appointed his sister's son Brennus
(styled by Buchanan ** Brendinus Begulus Eubonise ") to be

** one Mordndns, a king who delivered St. Joseph (at his first coming over
into England) out of prison in Yenedotia, i.e. in North Wales, hj whom he
was converted, governed the Isle of Man, a.d. 63. The city where he re*
sided in Man was called Saracta." This story may have originated in the
common confusion of the two Monas.

* He is said to have expelled the reputed necromancer Mannanan*beg-
mac-y-Lheir, whom Manx tradition indicates as the Father, Founder, and
Legislator of the country, ** who exacted no tax or subsidy from the people,
but only the bearing of rushes to certun places called Warrefield and Mame
on Midsummer even."

APPENDIX B. 259

his Ticeroy. Brennus, as Sacheverell states, hearing that his
uncle was hard beset by the Picts and their confederates,
raised what forces he could for his assistance, and in the year
A.D. 594 was slain fightmg at the head of his Manxmen, and
with a prodigious slaughter of the enemy, left a bloody victory
to his uncle.

We have no clear inthnation as to the successor of Brennus in
the yiceroyalty of Man, though it is not altogether improbable,
that Aydun appointed his own son Eugenius to that office, since
we find (according to Sacheverell) that when Eugenius shortly
after succeeded to the crown of Scotland, in memory of his
own kind reception on the island, he committed his three sons
Ferquard, Fiacre and Donald, to be educated under Conanus
Bishop of the Isle.

About thirty years after the death of Brennus, we find that
Edwin king of Northumberland, following up his success
against Cadwallon, a Welsh prince who had invaded his terri-
tory, got possession of the Isle of Man, which (Sacheverell
says) he wrested from the Scots. Afterwards Cadwallon, ob-
taining aid from France and Scotland, reconquered the terri-
tory which had been overrun by Edwin, and seems to have been
permitted to retain the Isle of Man as part of the kingdom of
North Wales.

On his death, which took place in a.d. ^7^, the crown fell
successively upon the head of his son and grandson, Caldwar
lader and Boderic, whose youngest son Howell claimed the Isle
of Man as his portion of the kingdom. He appears to have
been succeeded by Merfyn Frych, whose wife Essylt was niece
to Howell and daughter of Cynan Tindsethwy king of North
Wales ; so that on the death of Cynan he united again the
sovereignty of North Wales and Man in his own person*.

In the ' Annals of Ulster ' we read that in a.d. 84 1, two years
before the death of Frych, a fleet from Man entered the Boyne,
which would lead us to infer that he was engaged in making
additions to his kingdom. His son Bodic Mawr (Boderic the

* See Rowland's Monastic Antiquities, p. 173.

260 APPENDIX B»

Great) was one of the greatest princes of his day, his territory
including North and South Wales, with Fowjsland, Anglesey
and the Isle of Man.

On his death a partition again took place hetween his three
sons Cadell, Aherfyn and Anarawd ; the last succeeding to the
sovereignty of Man.

Towards the close of his reign the Northmen (Duhh GMs
and Fin-Gals, i. e. Black Foreigners and White Foreigners)
seized one afler another upon the Isles ia the west of Scotland,
making continual descents upon the neighhouring countries.
Amongst them the most notahle was Gorree, Orrey, or Orry,
who, in the heginning of the tenth century, having conquered
the Orcades and Hebrides, arrived on the shores of the Isle of
Man with a fleet of strong ships, and landed at the Lhane in
the north of the island. To him we are indebted for the Scan-
dinavian character of the constitution of the island. He
established the House of Keys, the Meeting of Tynwald, and
the division of the Isle into six sheadings. His son Guttred,
the founder of Castle Rushen in 947, succeeded him. I have
called him a Scandinavian* hero from the circumstance of the
introduction of Scandinavian customs by his father Orry, whose
true origin (probably Icelandic) is unknown, though he is gene-
rally called Danish.

We have then a succession of princes given us by Sacheverell
in the following order : — Reginald, Olave, Olain, Allan, Fingall
and Goddard, of whom little is known to their credit ; but the
next in order (a.d. 973), Macon or Hacon, makes a figure in
history, and is conspicuous as a naval commander in the days
of the Anglo-Saxon Edgar. He was one of the petty kings
(eight in number) who on the river Dee rowed in the royal
barge, Edgar (" Rex soli et saUf") holding the helm J. Spel-
man calls him the Prince of Seamen ('* totius Angliae Archipi-
rata"), and states that his fleet consisted of 3600 ships of war,
which annually sailed round the shores of Great Britain to free

* Chap. IV. p. 34, supra, f Mr. Quayle's MS., p. 4.

t Hume's History of England, chap. ii.

APPENDIX B. 261

them from pirates. His name also (Macusius, as Spelman
writes it) appears in the charter of Glastonbury* subscribed
immediately after the king of Scotland. Camden states that
he was not only king of Man but of many other isles, and
places his date about a.d. 960 f. From him it would seem
the ancient arms of the Isle of Man were adopted, viz. a ship
in her ruff (in full sail) with the motto " Rex Mannise et In-
sularum," which arms Camden states he had seen on a seal
belonging to the king of Man J. These continued in use till
the Scottish conquest (a.d. 1270), when by Alexander III.
they were exchanged to the present arms, which are,— Gules
three armed-legs proper, conjoined in fess, at the upper part of
the thigh flexed in triangle, garnished and spurred topaz, with
the motto " Quocunque jeceris stabit§" surrounding it in a
garter. The motto has been singularly appropriate to the
island, for after all the tossings about from one master to
another, it has had the feUcity to drop upon its legs, and has
retained to the present time its ancient peculiar and indepen-
dent constitution.

The date of the death of Macon has not been preserved, but
as we read in the * Annals of Ulster' of a battle in Man in
986 between Godred or Goddard M^Harald and the Grals, and
as we learn also from the 'Irish Annals' that Macon was a son of
Harald, it seems very probable that about this time Goddard
was occupying the throne which had previously been possessed
by his brother Macon. Sacheverell however, with some evident
misgivings, names Syrach as holding the kingdom about the
beginning of the eleventh century, and says he was succeeded
by his son Goddard, who was king so late as 1065. The fol-
lowing Hst, as given by Mr. Train from Skenes's * Highlanders
of Scotland ' and the * Irish Annals,' is evidently more correct.

Goddard was succeeded in 996 by his son Reginald, upon
whose death in 1034 his nephew Suibne|| came to the throne.

* Sachevereirs Account, p. 27.

t Mr. Quayle's MS., p. 4. % Britannia, p. 24.

§ " Whichever way you shall have thrown it, it will stand."
il Skenes's Highlanders of Scotland, part 2. chap.ii.

APPENDIX B.

Suibne appears to have been skin in defending his territoiy
against Torfin, Jarl of the Orkneys, in 1034 ; and in 1 040* we
read of Harold, a king of Man, dying at Duncha in Ireland,
and being succeeded by Goddard, son of Sygtrigt> king of the
Danes in Dublin.

During the whole of this century a very close connection had
existed between the Danes of Dublin and those of the Isle c^
Man ; they seem to haye been bound together by a league ofFen-
sive and defensive ; and the sovereignties of Dublin and of Man
were either held by one and the same person, or by members <^
the same family.

The close of it however saw a change in the line of kings
who exercised this sway. Groddard Croviln (called also Chrou-
ban, Crownan and Cronan^), the son of Harold the Black of
Iceland, having been amongst the forces of the Norwegian
monarch Harald Harfager, which were beaten by the Anglo-
Saxon Harold at Stamford Bridge, a.d. 1066, took refuge
in the Isle of Man, where he was kindly entertained. Groddard,
the reigning king at that time, seems to have incurred the
odium of his subjects, and Goddard Crovan determined to take
advantage of this feeling. He returned to his own country,
and raising a great fleet, shortly after invaded the Isle, where
he found Fingall, the son of Goddard, occupying the throne in
place of his father just deceased. After two repulses § he was
successful, and established himself on the throne, Fingall being
slain in battle along with Sygtrig M'Olave king of Dublin and
two O'Brians in 1077 1|.

After his conquest of Man^, Goddard Crov&n made himself

* Annals of Ulster.

f In the ' Chronicles of Man ' he is called the son of Sygtrig, though
Mr. Train, from the * Annals of the Four Masters,' states that he was
brother to Eachmarcach, son of Reginald king of the Danes, who was
driven from Dublin, a.d. 1052, by Dermid, son of Maihambo king of Inis-
gall, Dublin and Munster. — Train's History, vol. i. p. 70.

X See Chap. V. p. 45, supra.

§ See Chap. XIV. p« 227, supra.

II According to the * Annals of Ulster,' a.d. 1073.

f See Chap. Y. p. 45, supra.

APPENDIX B. 263

also master of Dublin and a considerable portion of Leinster.
He also (as the * Rushen Chronicle ' tells us) humbled the
Scotch to such a degree that no ship-builder durst use above
three bolts in any yessel.

On his death, after an uncertain reign '*^ of sixteen years,
Lagman (a.d. 1 104), the eldest of his three sons, mounted the
throne, which he was forced again to yacatef , and the youngest
son of Goddard Crovan, Clave the Dwarf, was unanimously
elected (a.d. 1114) to supply his place. To him is due the
foundation of Rushen Abbey and the tripartite division of the
insular tithe ; he is highly extolled for his amiable character
and the general mildness of his reign, yet he perished by the
hand of an assassin, and that assassin his own nephew Reginald,
the eldest of the three sons of that Harald whom Lagman had
so barbarously mutilated. These three had entered into a con-
spiracy to dethrone Olave ; uniting with themselves several dis-
affected persons, they demanded a moiety of the kingdom as
the children of an elder brother. Olave appointed a conference
on the day ofthe festival ofSt. Peter and St. Paul (a.d. 1154J),
on ^hich occasion Reginald stepped forward under pretence to
salute the king, and with one blow of his axe severed his head
from his body.

Olave left by his wife Affirica, daughter of Fergus Lord of
Gralloway, a son, Godred the Black. He left also an illegiti-
mate family, Reginald, Lawman and Harald, with several
daughters, one of whom was married to Somerled, prince of
Argyle, which proved highly injurious to the monarchy,
through the machinations of her sons Dubh Gal, Reginald,
Aongus and Olave.

Godred the Black had been educated at the court of Norway ;
on his return he was at once acknowledged successor to his father.
He caused his father's murderer Reginald to be put to death,
and the two younger brothers to be deprived of their eyes. In
the third year of his reign the people of Dublin invited him to

• See Chap. V. p. 46, wpra, t Ibid. p. 47.

X According to the Chrouoon Manni», a.d. 1142.

264 APPENDIX B.

be their king (a.d. 1 155) on the death of Reginald king of the
Danes. Ottar, who had been his competitor for the crown
having been slain, bequeathed to his son Torfin an intense
hatred against Godred. Torfin entered into an aUiance with
Somerled to place his eldest son Dubh Gal on the throne of
the Isles. The hostile fleets met in Ramsey Bay on the eye of
the feast of the Epiphany, 1156, and though success was not
determinate to either, the ultimate result was a division of the
kingdom of the Isles '*', Grodred retaining only the Isle of
Man. Two years after Somerled made a second expedition
against Godred, and possessed himself of the Isle of Man.
Godred fled to Norway, where he resided six years, till the
death of Somerled in 1164, when he returned to take posses-
sion again of his throne in Man. Here he found his natural
brother Reginald prepared to dispute the sovereignty. A battle
was fought at Ramsey, in which Reginald was successful ; a
second, which took place four days after, reversed the scales.
Grodred regained his kingdom, but had the cruelty to mutilate
his brother, aud put out his eyes.

Godred being resettled in his kingdom, took to wife Fingala,
daughter of MacLauchlan king of Ireland, but the marriage
not having been canonically performed (a.d. 1176), Yiranus,
Apostolic Legate from Pope Alexander III., came into Man
and caused the marriage to be solemnized afresh, when his son
Olave was three years oldf. On this occasion the king gave
to Sylvanus, the Abbot who performed the ceremony, as an
expiation of his error, a piece of land at Mirescogh in Lezayre,
which afterwards became the property of Rushen Abbey.

Godred died in a good old age, in the year a.d. 1 187, on the
10th of November, in St. Patrick's Isle, and the year after his
body was translated to the island of lona. Godred left besides
Olave two older illegitimate children, Reginald and Ivar. In
his lifetime he had nominated Olave his successor, who being
only thirteen years old at the time of his father's death, Regi-

* See Chap. XIV. p. 232, supra.
t Sacheyerell's Account, p. 44.

APPENDIX B. 265

nald was inyited (a.d. 1 188) to occupy the throne during his
minority. Olave was of a peaceful disposition, and when he
found his illegitimate hrother disinclined to surrender the king-
dom to him when of full age, rather than lose all he accepted
the Isle of Lewis as his moiety of the kingdom of the Isles.
This isle, mountainous and harren, he found utterly insufficient
for his maintenance. On petitioning Reginald for an extension
of the grant, he was invited to an audience, traitorously seized
(a.d. 1208), and sent a prisoner to William king of Scotland,
where he was kept in durance seven years, till the death of
that monarch and the kindness of his successor Alexander
opened his prison-doors.

On his liheration he came to Man, and soon after went on a
pilgrimage to the shrine of St. James of Compostella. At a
suhsequent period we find an apparent reconciliation between
Re^nald and Olave, and the latter again accepting the Isle of
Lewis. It is however very clear that the usurper Reginald
felt the crown of Man sitting uneasily on his brow, as we find
him casting about on all sides for helps and alliances. In the
sixth year of his reign John of England took Reginald into his
protection, and granted him a knight's fee i^ Ireland, ''pro
fffiodo et servitio suo* ; " and in 1219 Henry III. granted to
him letters of safe conduct to come into England to do him
homage for his crown. Yet, as if this were not sufficient secu-
rity, he determined on imitating John of England in submitting
himself to the Pope, and making to him a surrender of bis
usurped kingdom. The act of his surrender to Honorius III.
is given in Appendix F. Yet it was all to no purpose ; Olave
daily gained ground in the affections of the people, and on his
presenting himself (a.d. 1224) in the Isle of Man, under the
conduct of Paul Balkason, Sheriff of Skye, Reginald was glad
to yield to him one-half the kingdom of the Isles. Afterwards,
the Manx, disgusted with the duplicity of Reginald, who had
now held the kingdom thirty-eight years, sent for O^ve, and

* Sacheverell, Account, p. 51.

866 APPENDIX B.

placed the crown on his head. After two years Reginald made
an attempt to regain possession, and after some severe struggles
the contest was at length decided at the Tynwald Hill» on St.
Valentine's day, 1229, when the party of Reginald was defeated
and himself slain.

The year following Olave repaired to the court of Norway,
and did homage to Haco Hagen^on the reigning monarch,
Olave occupied the throne for nine years after the death of
Reginald, and died on the 21st of May 1237* leaving three
sons, Harold, Reginald, and Magnus.

The first of these at the age of fourteen came to the throne,
and wielded the sceptre ten years. He perished hy shipwreck
on his return from Norway in 1248*.

His successor, Reginald, was murdered hy the knight Ivarf
the year follovnng, and it was not till the year 1252 that Mag-
nus, youngest son of Olave, gained possession of the throne.
He was the last of the race of Goddard Crovan who swayed
the sceptre of Man. He died in 1 265, having done homage to
Alexander III. of Scotland.

The year following, Magnus VI. of Norway, successor to
Haco Hagenson, ceded to the king of Scotland and his heirs
the Isle of Man and the Hehrides, with all the rights and pri-
vileges belonging to the said island, without any restraint,
along with the Episcopacy of Man, the lands, jurisdictions, and
liberty of the church of Nidrosien, in every thing that he pos-
sessed in the Episcopacy and Church of Man ; the composition
to be paid by the king of Scotland being fixed at 4000 marks
sterling, in four yearly payments of 1000 marks each, and an
annual pension (called by the Norwegians a tribute) of 100
marks per annum. This treaty was done at Perth on the Fri-
day after the feast of St. Peter and St. Paul, a.d. 1266.

It was not however till four years after this that the Scotch
gained possession of the island, when King Alexander placed
in it a succession of Thanes as governors, of whom Godred

* See Chap. YIII. p. 101, 9upra, f Ibid.

APPENDIX B, 267

M'Manas was the first ; after him Allan ; then Maurice, Oker*
fair, Brennus and Donald*. In 1290 Edward I. took posses*
sion of the island on its surrender by Bichard de Burgo, and
gave letters-patent, 4th June 1290, to hold the same to Walter
de Huntercomb, who the year following surrendered it by King
Edward's order to John Baliol king of Scotland, to be held
by him as a fief from the crown of England.

The history of the Isle of Man for the next fifty years is ex-
tremely complicated, arising partly from its connection with the
crown of Scotland, and partly from the circumstance of there
being two Hues of succession by the female side of the family
of Goddard Grovan, each claiming an interest in the crown of
Man.

Mary, the daughter of Reginald, last king but one of the
race of Goddard Crovan, on the death of Magnus had been
secretly conveyed away from the island, with all the pubHc
deeds and charters. She appears to have been married to the
Earl of Strathem, and afterwards to John de Waldebeof .

Whilst King Edward I. was at Perth, adjusting the difference
between Bruce and Baliol, competitors for the crown of Scot-
land, she put in her claim for the Isle of Man, and offered to
do homage to him for it, but was referred to Baliol. She died
whilst prosecuting her claim, and her right descended to Wil-
liam her son and heir, and from him to John his son, who. pre-
sented his petition in Parliament to King Edward in the thirty-
third year of his reign (a.d. 1305), and was referred for a
hearing in the King's Bench.

The rival claim to the throne of Man arose from Affrica,
younger sister to Magnus, the last king of Man, and therefore
aunt to the aforesaid Mary, daughter of Reginald. In a deed

* Okefair's successor is said in Mr. Quayle's MS. to have been Chaplain
of King Alexander. The conduct of Allan was so tyrannical that the Manx
rose in a body against the Scottish Government. By the intervention of
the Bishop, the whole matter was referred to the result of a combat of
thirty champions on each side. The Manx lost the day, five of the Scots
surviving when all the Manx champions were slain. Allan was pressed to
death by the people^

268 APPENDIX B.

of gift, dated at Bridgewater in Somerset (a.d. 1305), in which
she styles herself " Aufrica de Connoght heres de Man," she
made oyer the island to Sir Simon de Monte Acuto (Simon
Montacute), from whom a claim thus descended to his son Sir
William Montacute, who is said to have mortgaged it for seven
years to Anthony Beck, Bishop of Durham and Patriarch of
Jerusalem, which Bishop obtained also a grant of it for life from
Edward II.

On the death of that prelate, March 3, 1311, the rival
claim to the Isle of Man appears still to have been entertained by
the Montacute family. This rivalry was however at length
happily set aside by the union of the two contesting famihes in
the persons of Sir William Montacute, Earl of Salisbury (son
to the last-mentioned Sir William), with Mary, daughter of
Wilham de Waldebeof, and therefore great-granddaughter of
Reginald, the son of Olave the Black. This appears to have
taken place in 1343, through the influence of Edward III., who
furnished to the Earl of Salisbury men and means for the con-
quest of the island from the Scotch, who then had it in posses-
sion. During the period in which this contest had been going
on between the two branches of the family of Groddard Crovan,
the kings of England and Scotland, as each had possession of
it, seem to have disposed of this island to other parties, accord-
ing to their own pleasure.

In the beginning of the year 1307, Edward I., dispossessing
Henry de Beaumont, granted the custody of the island to Gil-
bert de MacGaskill, and he was allowed by Parliament the Sum
of ^1596 Os, lOd, for his expenses, being ^81215 3«. 4d. for
the cost of defence against the Scots, and ^380 1 7s, 6d. fur-
nished by him for provisions to the Governor of Carlisle.

King Edward I. died July 7th of that same year. His son
within the period of the year following made no less than three
grants of the island to as many of his favourites, viz. Piers
Gaveston of Gascony, Gilbert de MacGaskill, and Heniy de
Beaumont ; but it iB doubtful if any of them ever actually had
possession ; and if they had, the party of Bruce very soon began

APPENDIX B.

269

to contest it with the nominees of the English king ; and in
1313 we read that "RohertPruce himself sat down hefore
Castle Rushen, which for six months was obstinately defended
by one Dingay Dowyll*, though in whose name we do not
findf ." And not long after it was granted to Robert Randolph,
Earl of Murray, afterwards regent of Scotland^. At this
time John de Ergadia, who had married a daughter of the
Red Com3nQ, and had large possessions in the Isle of Man, was
forced to flee with his family into Ireland, as from espousing
his father-in-law's side he was obnoxious to the family of
Bruce. He afterwards returned with some forces, and ex-
pelled the Scots in the king of England's name.

It is evident however that again the Scots gained possession
from the circumstance before noted, that Sir WiUiam Monta-
cute was obhged to win the island from them.

It was whilst Murray held the island, that Martholine,
almoner to the king of Scotland, was sent over in the year
1329 to take care of the business of rehgion and reformation of
manners. Sacheverell tells us that he wrote a work against
witchcraft, then greatly practised here, and mmted a copper
coin, with the king's effigy on one side and a cross on the
other, with the inscription, " Crux est Christianorum gloria §."

The Scotch during their tenure of the island appear to have
been regarded by the Manx with intense feelings of hatred,
and these feelings continued long after their expulsion. A
law was passed in 1422 1|, '* that all Scots avoid the land with
the next vessel that goeth into Scotland, upon a paine of for-
feiture of their goods, and their bodies to prison."

In the year 1344 Sir William Montacute was solemnly

* Bugal Macdouall. f Sacheverell's Account, p. 71.

t The Randolph family quartered the arms of Man upon their escutcheon ;
and it was from the circumstance of this short possession of the island
that this same device appeared upon the shield of the Duke of Albany,
who was created from that family in 1398. See Train's History, vol. i.
p. 149.

§ Sachevereirs Account, p. 72.

II See Mill's Statute Laws of the Isle of Man, p. 27.

270 APPENDIX B.

crowned kmg of Man, but the family seem to have held the
island by an uneasy tenure ; and in the year 1393 the Earl of
Salisbury sold it to Sir William Scroop*, the king's chamber-
lain, afterwards Earl of Wiltshire, on whose attainder and ex^
cution in 1399, Henry IV. granted the Isle to Henry Percy,
Earl of Northumberland, to be held by him on the service of
carrying the sword of Lancaster on the day of the coronation
of the kings of England.

He was four years after, on his attainder, deprived of it again
by Act of Parliament, and in the seventh year of his reign the
king granted it to Sir John Stanley for life only. Subse-
quently (a.d. 1406) he extended the grant to him in perpetuity,
in as full and ample a manner as it had been granted to any
former lord to be held of the crown of England, by paying to
the king, his heirs and successors, a cast of falcons at their
coronation. He died in the beginning of 1414, being at the
time Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, *' a man truly great and an
honour to his country.'*

He was succeeded by his son Sir John Stanley, who came
into the Isle in the year 1417, and in the June of the same
year convened a meeting of the whole island at the Tynwald
Hill, on which occasion were promulgated the laws which ap-
pear first in the Statute Book of the island.

He held subsequent Tynwald Courts, either in person or by
his lieutenants, in the years 1422, 1429 and 1430, in which
important alterations were made in previous laws and new ones
enacted ; amongst the former, " prowess or trial by combat,"
which had hitherto been allowed, was henceforth abolished.
His death took place in 1432, when he was succeeded by Sir
Thomas Stanley, his son, created (a.d. 1456) Baron Stanley
by Henry VI. ; after whom succeeded (a.d. 1460) Thomas
his son, created first Earl of Derby by Henry VII. in 1485.
He married Mai^ret, daughter of the Duke of Somerset and
Dowager-duchess of Richmond, and mother of Heniy VII.
He is remarkable in English history as having crowned the

* For the terms of sale, see p. 193, ngfra.

APPENDIX b; 271

Earl of Richmond immediately after the battle of Bosworth
Field. In 1505 he was sncceeded by Thomas his grandson,
who resigned the regal title under the conviction that " to be
a great lord is more honourable than to be a petty king*."

On his decease in 1521 Edward his son was only fourteen
years of age, and the island was ther^ore during his minority
under a commission, consisting of the Bishop, the Lieutenant-
governor, the Archbishop of York, and the Chancellor of
England.

After his accession to the Lordship of the Isle, he lived forty-
four years, in the reign of Henry VIII., Edward VI., Mary and
Elizabeth, and saw through the eventftd period of the Re-
formation. He died October 24th, 1572.

Henry his son succeeded him as fourth Earl of Derby. He
appears in all his acts to have been a strenuous supporter of
the Reformation, which hardly was carried out in the Isle of
Man during the life of his father. He was a bitter enemy of
Mary Queen of Scots, and was appointed one of the Commit*
sioners for her trial at Fotheringay. He died September 25th,
1594, leaving two sons, Ferdinand and William, of whom the
latter had been Grovemor of the Isle the year before his father's
death.

Ferdinand, the elder son, succeeding to the Lordship of Man
in 1594, was poisoned by his servant in the beginning of the
following year, upon which his younger brother William, en-
deavouring to take possession, found his claim contested on
behalf of the four daughters of Ferdinand, who had left no
son.

Queen Elizabeth appointed a commission to determine the
question ; in the mean time taking the island under her own
protection, and appointing Sir Thomas Gerrard Governor.
When James I. came to the throne, he seems to have taken
advantage of the doubts created as to the rightftil heirs to make

* See Earl of Derby's Letter to his son in Peck's Desiderata Curiosa,
voL ii. p. 436.

272 APPENDIX B.

grants of the island at different times to other parties not con-
nected with the Derhy family. Perhaps he may have heen led
to this from a consideration of the feeling shown towards his
unfortunate mother hy Earl Edward.

After years of litigation the result was giyen in fayour of
the female socoession, hut a compromise being entered into
between the daughters of Ferdinand and their uncle, an Act
was passed in 1610, assuring and estabhshing the Isle of Man
in the name and blood of William Earl of Derby, who then
entered upon possession. Towards the dose of his life, being
desirous of retiring from public business, he by deed of gift
(a.d. 1637) to his son James, Lord Strange, placed in his
power the Isle of Man and all his other estates, on condition of
the payment to himself of an annuity therefrom of ^1000.
Earl WiUiam died in 1642.

James some time before this deed of gift had visited the
Isle of Man, and took ocder for the settling the Government.
His name appears connected with the acts of Tynwald passed
in 1629 and 1636. The conduct of this noble earl during the
civil war is fully detailed in Appendix G. infra^ and the parti-
culars of his execution at Bolton in 1651 are there given. His
estates were taken possession of in the name of the ParUament,
and after the reduction of the Isle of Man by Colonel Ducken-
field, it was granted to Lord Fairfax as an acknowledgment of
his great services.

In 1652 Fairfax appointed James Chaloner and Robert
Dinely, Esquires, and Jonathan Witton, Clerk, as his Commis-
sioners for the government of the Isle.

At the Restoration, the Isle of Man and the other estates of
the Derby family which had been sequestrated returned to
their right owner, and Charles the eighth Earl of Derby (eldest
son of James) became Lord of Man, a.d. 1660. He died in
1672, and was succeeded by his eldest son William, who mar-
ried Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas Earl of Ossory, by whom
he had one son, William (who died in 1700 without issue).

APPENDIX B. 273

and two daughters, Elizabeth, who died without issue, aud
Henrietta, who was married, first to John Earl of Anglesea,
and afterwards to John Lord Ashbumham. She had two
daughters by these marriages, who both died without issue.

On the death therefore of WiUiam the ninth Earl, James, a
younger son of Charles, became tenth Earl of Derby and Lord
of Man in 1702. It was from this Earl that Bishop Wilson
obtabed in 1703 that great benefit to the island the Act of
Settlement, by which the properties of the gentry and land-
owners were secured to them for ever on the payment of certain
fines, rents and dues to the Lord. He died without issue in
1735, the last of that illustrious family which had governed the
Isle of Man for more than 300 years ; and then the kingdom of
Man devolved on James Murray second Duke of Athol, who
was descended from Lady Amelia Sophia, youngest daughter
of the noble James, seventh Earl of Derby, who had been mar-
ried to John Marquis of Athol, his grandfather, all the older
branches of the seventh Earl of Derby's family having died off.

This James was third son to John, created first Duke of
Athol. His eldest brother, the Marquis Tullibardin, being
dead^ and the second brother being under attainder in conse-
quence of the part he took in the rebeUion of 1 7 1 6, he succeeded
to his father's titles and estates in 1 724, and in the year 1 736
came in for the Lordship of Man in the manner just stated.

During his reign illicit commerce very rapidly gained ground
in the Isle of Man, causing much annoyance to the British
Government, who made to him several overtures for the pur-
chase of his rights in the island, but without coming to any
conclusion.

James died in 1764, and leaving no male issue was succeeded
by his nephew John in the Dukedom. John having also mar-
ried James's daughter Charlotte, the Baroness Strange, in 1753,
became also Lord of Man in his wife's right. The British
Government still continuing their overtures of purchase, the
Duke, beginning to fear lest if he were too pertinacious of his
rights he should lose all without any equivalent, at length
agreed to surrender the revenues of the Isle for ^670,000, and

274 APPENDIlC B.

an annuity to himself and Duchess of ^62000. The title of
Lord of Man, the manorial right, the patronage of the Bishop-
ric, mines, minerals and treasure-trove, were still reserved to
him on the honorary service of rendering a cast of fiilooas
at every coronation, and the annual payment of a roit of
^101 159, lid. The Act hy which this was aooompliahed,
passed in January 1765, is known hy the name of the Act of
Reveatment. This was the third time that the island changed
hands hy purchase ; the two former instances being those of
Alexander III. of Scotland, who gained it thus of the king of
Norway ; and of Sir William Scroop, who bought it of Sir Wil-
liam Montacute.

John, the third duke of Athol, dying in 1774, hb son John
succeeded to his title and estates. Under the conviction that
the family had not received a suitable remuneration for their
surrendered rights, he petitioned Parliament in 1781 and 1790
for a further allowance, but without success. At length, in
1805, he obtained a grant of the fourth part of the revenues of
the island, afterwards commuted to ^3000 per annum for
ever. However, in 1825, the Duke acceded to a proposition
made to him by the Lords of the Treasury to purchase the
whole of his remaining interest in the island for the sum of
^4 1 6, 1 1 4 ; and thus the Isle of Man became entirely and de-
finitely, with all the rights and privileges of the royalty, vested
in the British Crown. John, fourth Duke of Athol, died Sep-
tember 29, 1830, in the seventy-sixth year of his age, having
been Lord of Man fifty-five years : he had rendered the accus-
tomed service of a cast of falcons at the coronation of George IV.
^ The following is an analysis of the sum of ^416,114 paid

by the British Government to the Duke of Athol : —

£.

For the Customs* revenue 150,000

Kents and alienation fines 34,000

Tithes, mines, quarries 132,114

Patronage of the bishopric, with fourteen advowsons, the 1 iftftunn
aggregate value of which was igGOOO J *""»"*^

£416,114

APPENDIX B. 275

Deducting from the above amount the sum of ^ 1 00>000, paid
for the ecclesiastical patronage which the Crown now holds, we
have the residue, ^316,114, the interest of which sum at 3^
per cent, per annum is ^11,065.

In-order to get at an idea of the value of this purchase to
the British Government, and the surplus paid to the Consoli-
dated Fund of the United Kingdom from the Isle of Man, we
have the following balance-sheet, which for convenience is
given in round numbers, the amount derived from the Customs
being for the year 1846, and the rest an average of five years*
the royalties of the mines and quarries being the only variable
quantities.

Isle of Man Revenue,

Recbift.

Customs' duties on wine, spirits, tobacco, tea, coffee, sugar and ^'

timber 26,500

Mines and quarries' royalties (average) 3,900

Lord's rent, abbey rents, quit rents and fines 1,300

Tithes commuted 500

Total receipt 32,200

Deduct expenditure 25,200

Surplus revenue , iB7,000

EXPEXOITUBB.

Civil establishment. — Salaries, expenses of the Government and ^'

the administration of justice 8,000

Harbours 2,300

Collection of Customs, prevention of smuggling, and agent for

Woods and Forests ; 3,900

Interest on iS416,114 at 3^ per cent 11,000

Total expenditure ;C26,200

The Isle of Man has (from time immemorial) been governed
by its own laws, made and enacted by the three estates of the
Isle, viz. —

The King or Lord.

The Governor and Council.

276 APPENDIX B.

The TweDty-fonr Keys or Tazkd, as the representatives of
the inhabitants of the Isle.

These estates, when aasemUed, are called a Tynwald Conrt,
and their triple concurrence establishes the law, which baa
force after it has been proclaimed from the Tynwald Hill.

The Council consists of the Bishop, the two Deemsters* the
Clerk of the Rolls, the Attomey-Gcaieral, the BeoeiTer-Gene-
ral, the Water Bailiff, the Archdeacon, and the Yicar-GeneraL

Prior to the year 1 846 there were two Vicars-General. The
offices of Beceiver-€reneral and Water Bailiff are at presoit
held by one person.

Anciently the Abbot of Rushen and the Archdeacon's offi-
cial had seats in the Council.

The Goyemor or Lieutenant-GrOTernor is chief both in civil
and military power, and has by law authority to call a Tynwald
Court as often as he finds necessary, at which the Council and
Keys, according to their oaths, are bound to attend.

One clause in the Goyemor' s oath is remarkable : — " Tou
shall truly and uprightly deal between our Sovereign Lady the
Queen and her people, and as indifferently betwixt party and
party, as this staff now standeth, as far as in you lieth."

The Deemsters are the first popular magistrates, the supreme
judges in all civil courts, whether for life or property. The
office is of the highest antiquity. It is uncertain whether their
name is derived from to deem or to doom. Formerly, before
the laws were vmtten, in all new and emergent cases they
were called in to declare what the law was, and the laws so
declared were named Breast-laws.

The oath administered to a Deemster when appointed, mns
thus : — " By this book, and by the holy contents thereof, and
by the wonderful works that God hath miraculously vrrought
in heaven above and in the earth beneath, in six days and
seven nights, I (A. B.) do swear that I will, without respect of
favour or friendship, love or gain, consanguinity or affinity,
envy or malice, execute the laws of this isle justly betwixt our
Sovereign Lady the Queen and her subjects within this isle.

I I ^liiiig mil ■><

APPENDIX B. 277

and betwixt party and party as indiflferently as the herring
hack-bone doth lie in the midst of the fish. So help me God
and by -the contents of this book/*

There were formerly four baronies within the Isle, for which
courts were holden, viz. the Bishop's Barcmy, the Abbot's or
Abbey Barony, the Barony of Bangor and Sabel, and the
Barony of St. Trinion.

Till the year 1 845 the Bishop and the Archdeacon were mem-
bers of the Court of General Gaol delivery. Before that time
it was retained as an ancient usage, that the Bishop, or some
priest appointed by him, should sit with the Governor in the
trial of capital cases till sentence of death (if any) was to be
pronounced, the Deemster asking the jury, instead of guilty or
not guilty, " Vod fir-charree soie ?" which means hterally,
^' May the man of the chancel, or he that ministers at the
altar, continue to sit?'*

The following is a catalogue of the Governors and Lieutenant-
Governors of the Isle of Man since the accession of the house
of Stanley : —

A.D.

1407. Michael Blundell, Lieutenant.

1417. John Letherland^ lieutenant.

1418. John Fasakerly, Lieutenant.
1422. John Walton, Lieutenant.

1428. Henry Byron, Lieutenant. No records till

1496. Peter Dutton, Lieutenant.

1497. Henry RadcHffe, Abbot of Rushen, Deputy.
1505. Randolph Rushton, Captain.

1508. Sir John Ireland, Knt., Lieutenant.

1516. John Ireland, Lieutenant.

1517. Randolph Rushton, Captain.
1519. Thomas Danisport, Captain.
1526. Richard Holt, Lieutenant.

1529. John Fleming, Captain.

1530. Thomas Sherbum, Lieutenant.
1532. Henry Bradley, Deputy-Lieutenant.

278 APPENDIX B.

A.D.

1533. Henry Stanlej, Captain.
1535. (jeorge Stanley^ Captain.
1537. Thomas Stanley, Knt., lieutenant.

1539. George Stanley, Captain.

1540. Thomaa Tyldesley, Deputy.
1544. William Stanley, Deputy.
1552. Henry Stanley, Captain.

1561. Sir Richard Sherhume, Lieutenant.

1562. Thomas Stanley, Knt., Lieutenant.

1566. Richard Ashton, Captain.

1567. Thomas Stanley, Knt., Lieutenant.
1569. Edward Tarhock, Captain.

1575. John Hanmer, Captain.
1580. Richard Sherbum, Captain.
1591. Richard Aderton, Lieutenant.
1592 J^^*^* Gerrard, Captain.
' I Thomas Mortimer, Deputy.

1593. The Hon. William Stanley, Captain, afterwards

Earl of Derby.

1594. Randolph Stanley, Captain.
'Sir Thomas Gerrard, Knt., Captain. Peter

Legh, appointed Governor by Queen Eliza-
beth in the absence of Sir Thomas Gerrard.
[Cuth. Gerrard, Deputy.
^ r Thomas Gerrard, Knt., Captain.

' ' I Robert Molineux, Deputy.
. / ^^^' Gerrard, Captain.
' L Robert Molineux, Deputy.
1600. Robert Molineux, Captain.

1 609. John Ireland and John Birchall, GoTemors, con-
jointly by patent.

1610. John Ireland, Lieutenant and Captain.
1612. Robert Molineux, Captam.

1621. Edward Fletcher, Deputy.

1622. Edward Fletcher, Goyemor.

1596.

I
II

APPENDIX B. 279

A.D.

1623. Sir Fred. Liege, Knt., Captain.

1625. Edward Fletcher, Deputy.

1626. Edward Holmewood, Captain.

1627. Edward Fletcher, Deputy.

1628. Edward Christian, Lieutenant and Captain.

1634. Eyan Christian, Deputy.

1635. Sir Charles Gerrard^ Edit., Captain*

1636. John Sharpies, Deputy.

1639. RadcUfFe Gerrard, Captain.

1640. John Greenhalgh, Governor.

1651. Philip Musgrave, Knt. and Bart.

^ * > Colonel Rohert Duckenfield, GrOTemor.
1652. J

1652. Samuel Smith, Deputy-Governor.

1652, Aug. 18, Lord Fairfax made commissioners for

the governing the Isle this year, James Cha-
loner, Rohert Dineley, Esqrs., Jonathan Wil-
ton, Clerk.

1653. Matthew Cadwell, Governor.
1656. Wilham Christian, Governor.
1659. James Chaloner.

After the Restoration.
1 fifiO / ^^^S^' Nowell, Governor.

' I Richard Stephenson, Deputy.
IfifiS JH®^^ NoweU, Deputy part of the year, and

* I Thomas Stanley for the other part.
1 664 / bishop Barrow, Governor.

* L Henry Nowell, his Deputy.
1669. Henry Nowell, Governor.

1677. Henry Stanley, Governor.

1678. Rohert Heywood, Governor.

1691. Roger Kenyon, Esq., Governor.

1692. William Sacheverell, Governor.
1696. Colonel Nicholas Sankey, Governor.

Hon. Captain Cranston, Gt)vemor.

280 APPINDIX c.

A.D.

1703

r Robert Mawdesley, Esq., Governor.

I John Rowe, Deputy.
1714. Captain Alex. Home, Gk}Temor.

Major Floyde, Governor.
1726. Thomas Horton, Governor.
1734. James Horton.
1739. Hon. James Murray, first Governor under the

Duke of Athol.
1741. Patrick Lindsay.
1757. Basil Cochrane, Esq., Governor.
1763. Captain John Wood, Governor.
1765. The Island sold to the Crown, J. Hope, Deputy-
Governor.
1776. Richard Dawson, Lieutenant-Governor.
, y-y r Edw. Smith, Esq., Govemor-in-Chief.

* L Richard Dawson, Lieutenant-Governor.
1791. Alexander Shaw, Esq., Lieutenant.
1798. His Grace the Duke of Athol, Govemor-m-Chief.
1805. Colonel Cornelius Smelt, Lieutenant.
1832. General John Ready, Lieutenant.
1845. The Hon. Charles Hope, Lieutenant.

C. Page 15.

The following is a general account of the size of the Isle of
Man and its population at different periods.

The centre of the island is in latitude 54^ 15' north, and
^ " longitude «? 30' west.

It stretches out in a direction N.E. hy N., and S.W. hy S.
from the point of Ayre to the Sound of the Calf, distant from
each other 33^ miles.

Its greatest hreadth at right angles to this direction, from
Banks' Howe to Ballanayre, north of Peel, is 12^ miles.

The shortest distances from the surrounding countries are, — .

From the Calf of Man to Ardglass in Ireland, N.W. \ N.,
31 miles.

APPENDIX C.

281

From Peel to Lough Strangford, N.W. by W., 27 miles.
From Point of Ayre to Burrow Head, N.N.E., 16 miles.
From Maughold to Whitehaven, E. J N., 31 miles.
From the Calf of Man to Holyhead, S.S;W., 45 miles.
The number of statute acres in the island amounts to rather
more than 130,000, but in consequence of the many indenta-
tions and irregularities, it is impossible to calculate closely
without a very accurate survey, which has not as yet been
made.

The total amount of enclosed and cultivated lands paying
tithe is 89,458 acres ; the unappropriated Crown lands reach to
30,788 acres, of which—

The northern mountains contain .... 19,898

Southern ditto 8,495

The Ayre of Kirk Bride 1,668

The Ayre of Andreas 727

The lands belonging to the Crown are subject to a right pos-
sessed by the pubHc to turn sheep out on them, cut turf, and
preserve highways, turbaries and watercourses. "We may safely
allow 10,000 acres for the remaining uncultivated and untithed
lands, rocks, waters, and islands ; thus bringing the amount
of surface to an approximate total of 130,246 acres.

The following table of the heights of the mountains is taken
from Dr. Berger's report in the first volume of the Transac-
tions of the Geological Society of London. They were ob-
tained by the barometer.

Feet.

North Barrule 1850

South Barrule 1545

Bein-y-Phot 1750

Brada Head (highest point) T^7

Bushel's House (highest point on the Calf Islet) . 461

Corrin's Tower (on the Horse-hill Peel) 675

Cronck-Irey-na-Lhaa 1445

Douglas Head 315

Douglas Howe 466

Greebah (highest point) •. 1355

282 APPENDIX C.

Feet.
Ganagban 1520

Maughold Head 475

Mount Murray 742

Sartyl 1560

Slieauwhallin (highest pomt) 978

Slieau Heam 1533

Slieau Dhoo 1215

Slieau-y-Camaane 900

Sneafell 2000

Spanish Head 350

Santon Head (low point) 126

Tynwald Hill 1 30

Watershed, between Port Erin and Port St. Mary . 82

Naturally the island is divided into two districts, a south-
eastern and north-western, by the chain of mountains running
through it. For civil purposes it is divided also into two di-
stricts, a southern and a northern primarily, and these are sub-
divided into six sheadings, and again into seventeen parishes.
Each district has its Deemster or Judge, each sheading its
Ck>roner, and each parish its Captain, Sumner and Moar, i.e.
collector of Lord's rent. There is another division of the island
into the high bailiwicks of Castletown, Douglas, Peel and
Ramsey. The High Bailiff has jurisdiction in causes under 40«.
old Manx currency, equal to £1 14«. 3^d. British.

The following Table of the population is derived in chief
part from Quayle's ' Agriculture of the Isle of Man,' with the
addition of the census in 1821, 1831, and 1841.

APPENDIX C.

288

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284 APPENDIX D*

D. Page 45.

Act of Settlement,

After Goddard Croyan had conquered the Isle of Man, he
divided it between his followers (those who chose to remain
with him) and the natives, on the terms that none should ven-
ture to claim their holdings as hereditary property, but look
upon themselves merely as tenants at will of the king. This
tenure was afterwards known by the term " tenure of a straw.''

The Stanley family, by the charter granted to Sir John
Stanley, were vested with all the rights belonging to any former
king in the fullest manner. In the time of James seventh earl
of Derby, the people became alarmed on the subject of their
holdings, and were 'prevailed on to enter into an agreement
with the Earl to deliver up their property into his hands, and
receive them again on leases for three hves. In order the
more readily to induce them to this, one of the Deemsters
took the lead in the surrender of his lands, having entered at
the same time into a private arrangement with the Lord, by
which he shortly after obtained an Act of Tynwald reinstating
him in his possessions.

A spirit of great dissatisfaction (as might naturally be ex-
pected) was consequent throughout the Isle, and this appears
to have increased more and more as the lives of the different
leases dropped in. Agriculture was in consequence greatly
neglected, and the island was in a very languishing and de-
pressed state when James the tenth Earl of Derby became Lord
of Man in 1702.

In the year 1 703, however, owing chiefly to the great interest
of Bishop Wilson with the Earl of Derby, and his earnest
representations to him of the state of the island, an Act was
obtained which has well been designated the Manx Magna
Charta.

The Act of Settlement is the name given to " An Act for
the perfect settleing and confirming of the Estates, Tenures,
Fines, Rents, Suits and Services of the Tennants of the Bight

APPENDIX E. 286

Honorable James Earl of Derby witbin tbis Isle of Man." It
was drawn up and received tbe approbation of tbe Twenty-four
Keys and tbe Council, February 4th, 1 703, and being after-
wards approved of by the Earl of Derby, received his signature
September 6th of the same year. On the 6th of June 1 704 it
was proclauied on Tynwald Hill, according to form and custom,
and thus became the settled law of the land. Of the part
taken by Bishop Wilson in procuring it, we find the followmg
memorandum amongst his papers : —

" Sept. 6, 1 703.— Blessed be God for his favours. On thief
day I was, I hope, an happy instrument in bringing the Lord of
Man and his people to an agreement; his Lordship having
this day condescended to settle them upon a certain tenure, or
rather to restore them to their ancient tenure, which has been
uncertain for more than one hundred years. What the con-
sequence may be I know not ; but this I know, that I have
acted uprightly in this whole affair, which God be praised
for!"

E. Page 50.

In the year 1839, the Crown, the Bishop and the Clergy,
agreed to commute the several tithes payable to them for the
annual payment of ^5575, and since that time the payments
have been regulated according to the average price of com,
ascertained according to the prices of barley, wheat, and oats
during the seven years preceding each and every payment ; and
thereby the annual payments are liable to be increased or dimi-
nished accordingly. The proportions were regulated by Act of
Tynwald.

286

APPINDIX E.

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APPENDIX B, 287

" From the above table it will be perceived that the sum of
£b575, for which the tithes were commuted, arises from the
two sums of ^5489 5s. lO^d., the value of the tithe, and
£85 Ms, 1|^., arising from prescriptive payments. It is

disposed of as under : —

£ 9. d.

Sum paid to the incumbents of parishes 3292 12

The Lord Bishop 1515

The Crown 525

Chaplain of St. Jude's in Andreas 101

Trustees of Clergy Widows' Fund... 141 8

Total £5575

All the livings are in the gift of the Crown, excepting Brad-
dan, Patrick, German and Jurby, which are in the gift of the
Bishop. There are also glebe lands attached to the clerkship
of several of the parish churches : — Maughold 29 acres, Andreas
4 acres, Santon | acre, Lezayre 12 acres, German 7 acres,
Michael | acre, Ballaugh 3| acres, Jurby 27 acres 2 roods,
Bride 1 acre.

General Goldie is entitled to the tithes and customs payable
from the Abbey lands of Braddan, which, exclusive of the Nun-
nery estate of eight quarterlands, amount to the annual sum
of ^45.

Capt. Bacon is entitled to the one-third of the tithes payable
from several estates in Kirk Santon, and which amomit to the
annual sum of ^40.

George Quirk, Esq. was entitled to the one-third of the tithes
of Arbory, but he sold them to the. proprietors of the diflFerent
properties from which the same were payable.

A Spittal, Esq. and M. Kelly are entitled to a portion of the
tithes of Marown, amounting to the annual sum of ^17.

Under authority of an Order in Coimcil from her Majesty
Queen Victoria, dated December 10th, 1842, of which the ori-
ginal is deposited in the Episcopal Registry, it is '' ordered
that the several payments now made to the several Uvings from
the Royal bounty, shall upon the vacancy of each hving cease,
and the sum or sums thence arising be distributed to such poor
Clergymen officiating under his Ucense in the said island as

288 APPENDIX S.

shall seem good to the said Bishop. PinmdedahnijB, that the
said Bishop shall not deprive the Schooimasten of sodi por-
tion of the said grant as they hare heretofore reoeiTed, and shall
inform the Groyemor of the island from time to time of sndi
alterations as he shall make in the several payments."

Under this order three different apportionments have already
heen made, whereby the salaries of the Chaplains of St. Jnde's,
St. Mark's, and St. John's have been incraued.

There are at present 52 elementary schools in the island, in
which 2750 children are nnder instmction, being upwards of
an eighteenth of the entire population.

It is provided by the Common Law of the island that a
school shall be bnilt and maintained in substantial repair in
every parish by assessment upon the inhabitants ; that every
child of a proper age shall attend the school ; that certain chil-
dren shall attend free of any chai^, the rate of payment of
the rest being fixed by law ; and it is forbidden by law that
any man should exercise the profession of a schoolmaster whose
qualifications have not been ascertained by a competent autho-
rity, and who has not the license of the Bishop.

Thus the principle of State education in connection with the
Church has been fully recognised in the Isle of Man since the
day when Bishop Wilson procured the enactment of the ' Con-
stitutions Ecclesiastical/ so highly eulogized by Lord Chan-
cellor King.

Towards the maintenance of the Parish Schools a sum of
about ^200 is set apart from the Impropriate Fund at the dis-
posal of the Bishop and Archdeacon for Church purposes.
There is a ^rther sum of £16 \ 3s, applied annually to this
purpose under the designation of Royal Bounty, and ^39 an-
nually, arising from a bequest of Lady' Elizabeth Hastings.
These sums are distributed amongst the schools in portions ave-
raging about ^8 to each school. The remainder of the master's
stipend is made up by quarterages paid by the children. See
Report of the Parochial Schools of the Isle of Man, by the
Rev. H. Moseley, F.R.S., one of her Majesty's Inspectors of
Schools. 1847.

APPENDIX P.

F. Page 50.
The Act of Surrender, Made hy Reginald to the See of Rome.

" Reginaldus Rex Insulse Man, eonstituit se vasallum sedis
Romanae, et ex insuUl sua facit Feudam oblatum, Londini
10 Cal. Octob'. 1219.

** Sanctissimo Patri et Domino Honorio Dei gratia summo
Pontifici, Reginaldnns Rex Insnlarum commendationem cum
osculo pedum.

'' NoTerit sancta Patemitas yestra, quod nos, ut partidpes
simus honorum quae fiunt in Ecelesi^ Rom. juxta admoni-
tionem et exhortationem dilecti patris Domini P. Narvicen.
electi, Cameranj etLegati restri, dedimus et obtuHmus nomine
Ecclesise Romance, et vestro, et Catholicorum vestrorum «uc-
cessoTum, Insulam nostram de Man, quae ad nos jure bsere-
ditario peitinet, et de qua nulU tenemur aliquid servitium fa-
vere, et deinceps nos, et haeredes nostri in perpetuum tenebimus
in feudum dictam Insulam ab Ecclesia Romand, et faciemus ei
per boo homagium et fidelitatem, et in recognitionem Domini,
nomine census, nos et bseredes nostri in perpetuum annuatim
solvemus ficclesiae Rom. duodecim Marcas Sterlingorum in
Anglid apud Abbatiam de Fumes Cistertiensia Ordinis in
festo Purificationis B, Marits. Et si non esset ibi aliquis ex
parte ^estra yel successorum yestrorum, deponentur dictse duo-
decim Marcbee per nos et bseredes nostros penes Abbatem et
Oonventum, Ecdesiae Rom. nomine. Hanc donationem, et ob-
lationem dictus Dominus Legatus recipit ad voluntatem et
bene placitum testrum, et post receptionem factam ab eo sic
ipse Dominus Legatus dictam Insulam dedit mibi, et hsere-
dibus meb in feudum perpetuo possidendam et tenendam
nomine Ecclesiee Rom. Et me inde per annulum aureum in-
vestivit, &c.

" Actum Lond. in domo militiae Templi 10 Kal. Octob.
Anno Dotn. Millesimo ducentesimo decimo.nono. Et ne super

290 APPENDIX 6.

his aliqumdo possit dubitari, has literas fieri fecimuB et sigillo
nostro muniri.

" Codex juris gentium Diplomaticns per Godefridum Guliel-
mum Liebnitzium, impressus HanoTerie 1693> fol. pag. 5."

G. Page 61.

The following account of James, seventh Earl of Derby, is
extracted, the former part of it from Dugdale's sketch of him,
as given in Peck's * Desiderata Curiosa,' vol. ii. p. 436, the latter
from Coleridge's ' Worthies of Yorkshire and Lancashire.'

" James Stanley, £arl of Derby, was a person highly ac-
complished with learning, prudence, loyalty and true valour ;
whereof none are ignorant.

" To pass by the great state wherein he lived whilst this
realm continued in peace, and his wonderful hospitality, he
was one of the first who repaired to King Charles I. at York,
.when by reason of the dangerous tumults at Westminster in
the beginning of the year 1642, his Majesty became necessi-
tated to retire thither. Whence being ordered back into Lan-
cashire, to prepare for the Ring's reception, upon a resolution
taken 'for setting up the royal standard at Warrington, he
forthwith mustered the whole county on three heaths near
Berry, Ormskirk and Preston, where he had an appearance
of at least 20,000 men at each place : intending the like course
in Cheshire and North Wales (by virtue of his commission as
lord-lieutenant in those parts). But in this interim the place
resolved on for erecting the standard being changed (to the
great disappointment of the King's faithful subjects in those
parts and the no less encouragement of his enemies), it was set
up at Nottingham. When the countries not coming in so
fi*eely as was expected, the King by special letters desired his
Lordship to raise what men he could and hasten to him.
Whose answer was, that he would do his best ; but that the

APPENDIX 0» 291

case was then much altered ; a great part of the country re-
solving to stand neuters ; and that many others had already
joined with the rehels and seized upon Manchester.

*' All this notwithstanding, amongst his own tenants de-
pendants and private friends, he raised three regiments of foot
and three troops of horse. Which he clothed and armed at
his own charge, and then posted to the King at Shrewsbury
for orders how to dispose of them. Whereupon his Majesty
commanding him to return and forthwith to make trial of one
smart assault upon Manchester ; and then, whether he mastered
that town or not, to march up to the general camp ; he re-
paired to those his forces; drew up before that town; and
upon his summons thereof it revising any treaty, directed an
assault at four of the clock next morning, with hopes to carry
it. But that very night receiving commands from the King to
haste to him in two days' space, he brought up his regiments
and troops to his Majesty. Which being disposed of under
the command of other officers, he was desired to return back
and take what care he could of the country. Hereupon the
party then sitting in Parliament in Westminster made offer to
him of the largest terms imaginable, in case he would come to
them or quit the King's service. But to this he answered,
' When I turn traitor, I may hearken to these propositions ;
but till then let nne have no more of these papers, at the peril
of him who brings them.' This being the second time they
had in that kind attempted him.

** By this time the enemy having garrisoned the towns of
Lancaster and Preston, and in a manner brought the whole
country under their power, his Lordship set himself to fortify
his own house at Lathom. And, though his arms and maga-
zine were gone (how, you will hereafter hear), made shift, with
the assistance of his friends, to cut off three companies of the
enemy on Houghton Common ; as also to take Lancaster and
Preston by storm. Li the former leading on his men himself,
with a half pike in his hand (after one repulse) to the second
assault, which did the business. Man(;hester having, in all

292 APPBNDTX O.

probability, followed^ had not his auxiliaTies and his own forces
been called away in that very nick of time, when he was ready
for the attempt.

" Soon ailer this, upon information that the enemy had a
design npon the Isle of Man, he was ordered thither for the
defence of that place. And went accordingly, ha\ing first
made some necessary provisions of men, moneys and ammuni-
tion for the protection and defence of his incomparable lady at
Lathom ; to whose charge he committed his children, house,
and other his English concerns.

" During the Earl of Derby's absence in the Isle of Man, his
Countess, the Lady Charlotte, being left in this house, the enemy
looked upon it as their own ; expectmg Jittle from a woman,
being a stranger, or that the place being so unprovided (as they
supposed) any considerable resistance could be made ; so that
a commission was presently obtained for the reducing it*.

" Upon intelligence given to the Earl of these his lady's dis-
tresses, he hasted out of the Isle of Man to beg relief to his
Majesty. "Whereupon orders were given that Prince Rupert
should take Lancashire in his way to York, unto which place
he was then designed. But no sooner did Bigby hear that his
Highness had entered Lancashire at Stopford Bridge, than he
raised his siege on the 27th of May 1644, and marched to
Bolton, a strong garrison of the enemy. Where, with the
addition of other forces to 2000 of his own, he made up a body
of 2500 foot and 500 horse. Upon notice whereof to ihd
Prince, he marched directly thither, and gave orders for an
assault. Which, though gallantly attempted, succeeded not at
the first ; he therein losing 200 men, the enemy killing all they
took upon the walls, in cold blood, in his sight. Whereupon a
second assault being resolved, the Earl of Derby desired to
have the command of two companies of his old foot, and the
honour of the forlorn. Which at his importunity being

* An account of the siege of Lathom Hoase will be found in Bohn*i
Standard Library. The Ck>ante88 kept possession for one whole year, till
relieved by Prince Rupert.

APPENDIX 0. 293

g^ranted^ and aU things r^y, the town was carried in the space
of half an hour^ on every side ; he himself heing the first man
to set foot in it, upon the 28th of May. Whereupon Rigby
made his escape, leaving 2000 of his men behind.

" Upon the taking of this rebellious town. Prince Rupert sent
all the colours to the Countess at Lathom ; and so marched to
Liverpool for reducing that. Thence he went to Lathom,
where he staid four or five days ; but before his departure
gave direction for repairing and fortifying the house, and at the
request of the Countess disposed the governorship thereof to
Captain Edward Rawsthome, whom he made colonel of a foot
regiment, and two troops of horse, for its defence. By which
captain it was stoutly defended for fuU two years more in a
second siege, but at last by his Majesty's order delivered up ;
having cost the enemy no less than 6000 men, and the garri-r
son about 400, it being one of the last places in this realm
which held out for the King. Such was the fate of Lathom
House."

The latter days of this noble Earl are thus detailed by Mr.
Coleridge. See also Ward's ' Ancient Records, &c. of the Isle
of Mann,' p. 162.

"After the raising of the siege of Lathom House, an. 1644,
the Earl and his Countess returned together to the Isle of Man.
For Derby and his consort the following years were years, not
of peace, but of comparative inaction. Cooped up in their
diminutive kingdom, they were honoured as patriarchal princes ;
they bad defiance to the fleets, the threats and the persuasions
of Parliament. Even when their children, whom they had
sent into England on the faith of a pass from Fairfax, were de-
tained in captivity by the ruling powers, though repeated offers
were made to restore them, with the whole of the English
estates, if the Earl would give up his island ; he constantly an-
swered that much as he valued his ancestral lands, and dearly
as he loved his offspring, he would never redeem either by dis-
loyalty. Nor did they change their resolution even when the
King, for whom they held their rocks and little fields, was no

294 APPENDIX G.

more, and his son a wandering exile. Angry at solicitationa
which implied an insult to his honour, Derby returned the
following reply to that fierce republican Ireton, who had urged
the old proposal with renewed earnestness : —

" ' I receiyed your letter with indignation, and with scorn I
return you this answer : that I cannot but wonder whence yoa
should gather any hopes from me, that I should (like you)
prove treacherous to my Sovereign, since you cannot be insen-
sible of my former actings in his late Majesty's service ; from
which principle of loyalty I am no way departed. I scorn
your proffers ; I disdain your favours ; I abhor your treasons ;
and am so far from delivering this island to your advantage,
that I will keep it to the utmost of my power to your destruc-
tion. Take this final answer, and forbear any further solicita-
tions ; for if you trouble me with any more messages upon this
occasion, I will bum the paper and hang the bearer.

" ' This is the immutable resolution, and shall be the un-
doubted practice of him, who accounts it the chiefest glory
to be

" ' His Majesty's most loyal and obedient subject,

" * Derby.'

" ' Caatle Town, 12tli July 1649. '

" He remained in the Isle till 1651, when the younger
Charles entered England at the head of a Presbyterian army,
governed by Presbyterian preachers, with which it was impos-
sible for the English Royalists cordially to cooperate. But
Derby's loyalty had no reservations ; his oath of allegiance con-
tained no proviso for the case of a King bringing the Solemn
League and Covenant along with him. At the request of
Charles, (who sent him the order of the Garter,) he left the
island, and landed in Lancashire, to join in as unpromising
an enterprise as ever threw away good lives. Having sent
forth trusty emissaries in all directions to announce his arrival,
and call his cavaliering friends and neighbours from their re-
treats, two or three days after he parted with the King, he

APPENDIX G. 295

fixed bis quarters at Wigan, to wait the coining up of the
musters. But next morning he was unexpectedly attacked by
a large body of militia and regulars under Lilbum, whom Crom-
well had detached to hang upon the King's rear and prevent
the junction of stragglers.

" Derby's 'band of brothers' were set upon in an irregular
street^ which enabled them to make a prodigious stand against
over-running numbers. ' Three thousand veterans, practised
in war's game/ were barely sufficient to cut to pieces, and
trample under foot, 200 loyal English gentlemen. In this
skirmish the Earl received seven shots in his breastplate, thir-
teen cuts in his beaver, and five or six wounds in his arms and
shoulders, and had two horses killed under him. Yet his time
was not yet come. He escaped almost singly, and found his
way through Shropshire and Staffordshire, to join the King at
Worcester.

'' Of the result of the 3rd of September, and the subsequent
wanderings and escapes of Charles, who in this land of oaks is
ignorant ? It was Derby that, with cold and bleeding wounds,
led the King in secrecy to St. Martin's gate, and directed him to
the concealments of White-ladies and Boscobel, where he him-
self had found shelter not many days before. He then made
for his own country, though sick of heart and wounded sore ;
but scarcely had he gained the borders of Cheshire, when he
was overtaken by a party under Major Edge, to whom he sur-
rendered under a promise of quarter. He was led prisoner to
Chester. The Parliament sent down a commission of nineteen
persons, selected frcAn the miUtary, who formed a sort of court-
martial, styled ' a High Court of Justice,' in order to ' try the
Earl of Derby for his treason and rebeUion.' Of course the
Earl was found guilty, and condemned to die ; but by an un-
necessary aggravation of cruelty, the execution was appointed
to take place in his own town of Bolton-le-Moors, where a few
years ago he appeared a conqueror. He was beheaded on
Wednesday the 15th of October 1651. Two days before he
wrote a letter to his Countess, which we will give entire : —

296 APFBNBIX O.

" • My dear Hcart,-^! have heretofore sent you comfortable
lines, but, alas ! I have now no word of comfort, saving to our
last and best refsge, whidi is Ahmgbty Grod, to whose will we
must submit ; and when we ooosider how He hath disposed of
these nations, and the goTemment thereof, we have no more to
do but to lay our hands upon our mouths, judging ourselves,
and acknowledging our sins, joined with others, to have been
the cause of these miseries, and to call upon Him with tears for
mercy.

*' < The Governor of this place. Colonel Dnckenfield, is Gene*
ral of the forces, which are now going against the Isle of Mann ;
and however you might do for the present, in time it would be
a grievous and troublesome thing to resist, especially those that
at this hour command the three nations, wherefore my advice
notwithstanding my great affection to that place, it is that you
would make conditions for yourself, and children and servants,
and people there, and such as came over with me, to the end
you might get to some place of rest, where you may not be
concerned in war, and taking thought for your poor children, !

you may in some sort provide for them : then prepare yourself <

to come to your friends above, in that blessed place where bliss
is, and no mingling of opinions.' « * « ;

'' Mr4 Bagerley, one of the Earl's gentlemen, who was al- ^

lowed to attend him to the last, drew up a narrative of his >

djring hours, the manuscript whereof still remains in the fa-
mily : —

" Upon Monday, October Idth, 1651, my Lord procured
me Hberty to wait upon him, having been close prisoner ten
days. He told me the night before, Mr. Slater, Colonel Duck-
enfield's Chaplain, had been with him from the Governor, to
persuade his Lordship that they were confident his Ufe was in
no danger ; but his Lordship told me he heard him patiently,
but did not beHeve him ; for, says he, ' I was resolved not to
be deceived with the vain hopes of this fading world.' After
we had walked a quarter of an hour, he discoursed his own
commands to me, in (urder to my journey to the Isle of Mann,

APPENDIX G. 297

f^ to bis coiismit to my Lady to deliver it on those articles his
Lordship had signed.

** After we were out of the town, the people weeping, my
Lord, with an humble behaviour and noble courage, about half
a mile off, took leave of them ; then of my Lady Catherine and
Amelia upon his knees by the road-side, (alighting for that end
from his horse,) and there prayed for them, and saluted them^
and so parted. This was the saddest hour I ever saw, so
much tenderness and affection on both sides.

" That night, Tuesday, the 14th October, we came to Leigh ;
hut in the way thither, his Lordship, as we rode along, called
me to him, and bid me, when I should come into the Isle of
Mann, to commend him to the Archdeacon there, and tell him
he well remembered the several discourses that had passed be-
tween them there, concerning death, and the manner of it ;
that he had often said the thoughts of death could not trouble
him in fight, or with a sword in hand ; but he feared it would
something startle him tamely to submit to a blow on the scaf-
fold. ' But,' said his Lordship, 'tell the Archdeacon from me,
that I do now find in myself an absolute change as to that
opinion ; for I bless God for it, who hath put this comfort and
courage into my soul, that I can as willingly now lay down my
head upon the block as ever I did upon my pillow.'

" Then we went to prayer, and my Lord commanded Mr.
Greenhaugh to read the Decalogue, and at the end of every
commandment made his confession, and then received absolu-
tion and the sacrament ; after which, and prayers ended, he
called for pen and ink, and wrote his last speech as follows : — r

'^ ' Now I must die, and am ready to die, I thank my God
with a good conscience, without any maUce, on any ground
whatever, though others would not find mercy upon me upon
just and fair grounds : so my Saviour prayed for his enemies,
and so do I for mine.

" * As for my faith and religion, thus much have 1 at this
time to say : I profess my faith to be ia Jesus Christ, who
died for me, from whom I look for my salvation, that is

298 AFFBNDIX O.

through His only merit and snffeniigs. And I die a dutiful
son of the Church of England, as it was estahlished in my
late Master^s time and reign, and is yet professed in the Isle of
Mann, which is no little comfort to me.

" * I thank my Gk)d for the quiet of my conscience at this
time, and the assurance of those joys that are prepared for
those that fear Him. Good people, pray for me ; I do for
you ; the Grod of Heaven hless you all, and send you peace ;
that God that is truth itself, give you grace, peace and truth.
Amen.*

*' Just before he suffered he calmly requested that the block
might be removed so as to face the Church, saying, * I will
look towards thy sanctuary while here as I hope to live in thy
heavenly sanctuary for ever hereafter.'

" So he laid himself down with his neck to the block* and
his arms stretched out, sa3ring, —

'^ * Blessed be God's glorious name for ever and ever. Amen.
Let the whole earth be filled with his glory. Amen.'

" And then, lifting up his hands, the executioner did his
work, and no manner of noise was then heard but sighs and
sobs."

After her husband's death the Countess of Derby stOl held
out her domain of Mann, ruling it with a broken fortune,
broken heart, but unbroken spirit, till those Christians, to
whom the Earl at his leave-taking had committed the care of
his wife and children, and of the Island forces, betrayed it to
the Government. Then was the Countess for a time a captive,
and afterwards a wanderer, subsisting on such kindness as the
poor can bestow on the poorer still. At the Restoration the
estates reverted to her eldest son, and she spent the short
Temnant of her days at Knowsley Park. She died in 1662.

n
S a

CO s

.J §

o
o

300 APPENDIX H.

H. Page 76.

The foiindati<ni-stone of King William's College was laid by
Lieuteiiant-Goyemor Smelt on St. Greorge's day, April 23, 1830.
The building, which stands at the head d Castletown Bay, ia
of mixed early English and Elizabethan character. It extends
S.E. by E. and N.W. by W. 210 feet. The transept at
right angles to this direction in the centre of the building, in-
cluding the Tower and Chapel, is 135 feet. The Tower, placed
between the Chapel and the rest of the building, rises to a
height of 1 1.5 feet from the groimd. The original design, fur-
nished by Messrs. Hansom and Webb, included an octagonal
turret on the sununit of the Tower intended as an observatory,
but it was abandoned in the erection. The contract for the
building by the late Mr. Fitzsimons was ^6000. T^e Chapel
(not yet consecrated) was built by Bishop Ward out o£ moaeys
collected in England for building churches on the island. The
bnUding is now divided into seven fire-proof compartments,
separated by strong party-waUs rinng above the roof, and com-
mumcating through cast-iron doors, the passages being flawed
with stone. It contains, in addition to the Chapel and Tower,
the residences of the Principal and Vice-Principal, tiie Library,
and four Class-rooms.

The fund accumulated by the Trustees from the rents of
the Ballagilley and Hango Hill estate, amounted in 1830 to
£2071 lOs. Through the exertions of Bishop Ward, a sub-
scription-list, nobly headed by himself with iSlOO, produced
nearly ^82692 more, and the College estate was mortgaged by
Act of Tynwald for another ^2000. A sum of ^50 per annum
is set apart from the proceeds of the trust for the gradual pay-
ing off this incumbrance. The building cost £6572 ISs. The
College lands, originally held under lease at i£20 per annum,
were let in 1769 for a term of thirty-one years at the annual
rental of ^100. Again in 1800 they were re-let at ^^341 15«.
per annum ; in 1826 they obtained a further advance to a rental
of i^89 Is, per annum ; and lastly in 1842 they were let at

APPENDIX H. 301

about ^520 per annum. The Principal receiyes from this
estate the same salary as was formerly given to the Academic
i Master. The salaries of the other masters (except a portion

\ of that of the Yice-Principal, and £15 paid to the English

master from a bequest of the late Mrs. Quilliam) are paid out
of the tuition-fees of the students.

The remainder of the proceeds of the trust is expended in
exhibitions to Manx students to the Uniyersities of Great Bri-
tain^ in the payment of interest upon the borrowed capital of
i62000, in the reserved fund for the liquidation of this debt^
and on improvements of the College estate.

The Mapx Exhibitioners to Oxford, Cambridge, or Trinity
College, Dublin (of whom there are at this present three), are
^ bound by the terms of Bishop Barrow's will to return and

serve in the Manx Church upon the call of the Bishop, or to
refund the sum advanced to them for their education out of
the trust.

The Trustees of the College are His Excellency the Lieut.-
Grovemor,the LordBishop, the Clerk of the Bolls, theAttorney-
Greneral, the senior Deemster and the Archdeacon.

The educational arrangements of the College are after the
original plan of Llampeter in South Wales, combining a gram-
mar-school, with a higher department for students for holy
orders. The ordinary course embraces the Greek and Latin
classics, Hebrew, with Greek, Laidn and English composition,
history and geography, the mathematics, with mensuration,
fortification and navigation. The modem languages and
drawing are q>tional. The oourse of religious instruction is
according to the doctrine and discipline of the Church of
England. The tuition-fees vary, according to age, from £4
to ^10 per annum. The board 30 guineas. The masters are
voluntarily educating gratuitously 22 boys, of whom the greater
portion are sons of the native Manx clergy.

The first Principal was the Rev. E. Wilson, M.A., of St.
John's College, Cambridge, who was succeeded by the Bev. A.
Phillips, D.D., of Jesus College, Cambridge. He was suq-

802 APPENDIX H.

ceeded by the Rev. R. Dixon, M.A., of St. Catherine Hall,
Cambridge, in 1841, who had previously been Vice-Principal
from the opening of the College. The original library of the
College was removed from the grammar-school, Castletown, in
the prindpalship of the Rev. £. Wilson. It belonged to the
Academic School. It contained several volumes given by
Bishop Wilson, many of them containing his autograph and
motto, "Tuta et Pajrvula." It was increased by many bene-
factors ; amongst them Lord de Grey gave Bishop Ward j820
to be laid out in books ; Captain Willis of Castletown and
R. Quayle, Esq. made valuable presents, and the British and
Foreign Bible Society gave a selection of their versions. But
the most liberal donor was Bishop Short, who presented a
valuable collection of Hebrew books, works of Greek and Latin
criticism, the Delphin Classics in 141 volumes, Stephens'
Greek Thesaurus, 8 vols. fol. ; Facciolati's Latin Lexicon, 4
vols. fol. ; Critici Sacri, 9 vols. fol. ; works of Johnson, Ro-
bertson, Burnet, Clarendon, Strype, Grindal, Whitgift and
Parker, &c. Very many of these books formed a part of the
library of the late Dr. Ireland, Dean of Westminster, his Lord-
ship's uncle.

Between two and three o'clock of the morning of January
14th, 1844, a fire broke out in the dining-hall of the Principal,
in the western wing of the College ; its origin has never been
discovered. Owing to the circumstance of the entire roof of
the building being connected throughout, and two wainscoted
and floored corridors running from end to end, the flames
spread with fearful rapidity, and in a very short time consumed
(with the exception of the greater part of the Vice-Principal's
Residence) the entire building, tower and chapel. There was
a great destruction of property. The Ubrary was all but
wholly consumed. Most providentially no accident of life
or Umb occurred, though the inmates of the College numbered
nearly 100. The Principal was fully insured, but the College
only to the amount of ^2000, a very inadequate sum. Bishop
Short drew up a circular, asking for pecuniary aid, and head-

APPENDIX H. 303

ing the subscription-list with ^300, The call was handsomely
responded to, and ^1871 10«. was raised. The cost of re-
building amounted to ^3791 Ids. Ad.

The rebuilding and refitting the College after the fire was
undertaken voluntarily and gratuitously by J. Timperley, Esq.,
Civil Engineer, to whose assiduous attentions, energy and per-
severance, the rapid restoration of the building is to be ascribed.
Sufficient progress was made to enable the members of the
College and their friends to meet for the annual distribution
of prizes in the large class-room on the 4th of June of the
same year. The College Library has already in part been re-
stored by donations of books from various sources.

The University of Oxford, through the interest of Bishop
Short, made a most munificent donation of a choice selection
of 344 volumes, printed at the Clarendon press, handsomely
bound. Bishop Short has also himself largely contributed to
the new Ubrary, and haa obtained presents from his friends.
The Rev. W. P. Ward, son of Bishop Ward, formerly of this
diocese, contributed several valuable works. The Parker So-
ciety replaced the works published by them which had been
burnt, and the British and Foreign Bible Society more than
replaced their original gift of selected versions of the Holy
Scriptures. The University of Cambridge presented several
volumes, printed at the Pitt press. Mrs. Shirley, widow of
Bishop Shirley, presented, at Bishop Shirley's request, 63
volumes ; being a complete series of the Latin Fathers.

The most liberal of all the recent benefactors to the College
was the late Mrs. Quilliam, reUct of Capt. Quilliam, R.N., of
Ballakeign, near Castletown. She gave two separate sums of
^100 to the building and rebuilding the College, the commu-
nion-plate, value nearly iSlOO, and a pair of silver candlesticks
for the Holy Table. She left by will the sum of ^300, the
interest to be applied to assist towards the salary of a master
to teach navigation and other useful sciences. She also by the
same will left to the Masters of King WiUiam's College the

804 APPBNDIX H.

rerersion of the estate of Orrisdale, in the parish of Malew,
valued at about j6130 per annum ; which estate has fallen in
by the death of her niece^ Mrs. Gunton. The validity of the
bequest having been disputed by the heir-at-law, — ^by an action
at Common Law, December 7th, 1847> a verdict has at this
time been given in- favour of the College claim.

The Act of Mortmain not applying to the Isle of Man, be-
quests of landed property may at any time be made to corpo-
rate bodies as well as to private individuals.

A Museum for the reception of objects of natural history
has been commenced, and has received some valuable donations.
Lectures on Natural Philosophy are periodically deUvered at
the College. A payment of 2«. 6^. per quarter is made by
the students towards the purchase of philosophical apparatus,
and the augmentation of the library and Museum. Prizes of
books are open for competition on various subjects.

His Excellency Lieutenant-Governor Ready gave 4^5 per
annum for the encouragement of English poetry and mathe-
matics, which has been continued by His ]&ccellency the
Hon. Charles Hope.

Bishop Ward gave 5 guineas (continued by his successors)
for a Latin and an English Theological Essay.

James Clarke, Esq., Attomey-Gkneral of the Isle of Man,
and Recorder of Liverpool, gave £5 per ani^um for the en-
couragement of English composition ; continued by Charley
Ogden, Esq.

The Venerable Ardideacpn Philpot gave prises of books for
the encouragement of Greek and Latin verse. Archdeacons
Hall and Moore have continued a donation of two guineas and
a half to the same object.

Francis Lace, Esq., of Ingthorpe Grange, Skipton, York-
shire, gives ^10 per annum for the encouragement of Heln'ew,
a knowledge of the Greek Testament, and English history.

The following documents, taken from the Chancery records
of the lAe of Man, will be found interesting in c(Mmection with

APPBNDIX I*. 805

the buil£ng of Kix^ WiUiaBi's College. — Chancery Reoords^
1673 :—

'^ Whereas there is a full accord between the Bishop of
St. Asaph' and the Isle of Man concerning the profits belong-
ing to the Bishopric of the Island from the time of its ya-
cancj, and all disputes and differences between them about
any eoncems in the island being concluded ; And whereas it
is agreed between them, with my consent and approbation,
that the whole profits for the year 1671 shall be placed in the
hands of William Banks of Winstanley in the county of Lan-
caster, Esq., till we can meet with oonyenient purchase for the
erection of a public school for academic learning : These are to
require you to collect the profits aforesaid, and all charges
necessary for the collection being deducted, to return the
money by the first opportunity, that it may be fixed and em-
ployed according to the agreement between us.

" Given under my hand at Knowsley the 8th June 1672.

" Derby."
" To the Deputy-Governor of my
Isle of Man.

Isaac. Asaph.
. Henric. Sodorensis.'^

^In presence of <

In the Chancery Book, 1675, there is a deed of sale from
Charles Moore to Bishop Bridgeman, by which it appears that
in that year the Bishop purchased the Abbey of Rushen from
Charles Moore, with the intention of erecting the Academic
School there ; but having been unable to accomplish this
through want of funds, the property was subsequently restored
to the said Charles Moore.

I. Page 113.

The analysis by Dr. Kemp, for the purpose of determining
the per-centage of lime in the marls of the north and south of

S06 APPENDIX K.

the iBland, gave for a sample taken from Kirk Bride parish,
near Point Cranstal, only 5*145 per cent, of lime, whilst a
sample from Hango Hill, near King William's College, yielded
ahout 24'5 per cent. A sample taken at Ronaldsway, near
Derby Haven, a little to the westward of the basset edge of
the old red sandstone, gave 6*75 per cent., and the same was
very nearly the proportion of a mass from Strandhall, where
the limestone bedB a little to the eastward are greatly altered
and crystalline in consequence of the intrusion and overlying
of masses of trap.

These facts indicate the extremely local character of the
contents of great part of the boulder clay ; and show also that
the great use of the marl in the north of the island is to give
consistency to the sandy soil, rather than to supply it wiUi a
proper quantity of lime, of which 20 per cent, should be added
to make it a good manure.

K. Page 176.
Mining Operations on the I*le of Man,

Evidences of mining operations carried on at a very early
date have been noticed at Brada Head, in the south of the Isle
of Man.

A level appears to have been driven in just above high-water
mark in the north-western face of the headland, reaching about
200 yards. By means of a shaft sunk from above this level
about 12 yards higher up and inclining inwards, and also by
means of other shafts sunk below the level, a considerable
quantity of ore (sulphuret of lead) was obtained. The level
was wrought through the vein, which was very irregular, in
some parts 40 feet high by 6 feet broad, in others httle or no
ore appeared. Its quality seems to have been but indifferent.
Some wedges of a description in use before the introduction
of gunpowder into mining, called /<?afAcr-we«^e«, have been
found in the mine, and the general appearance of the work
bespeaks remote antiquity; history and even tradition are

APPENDIX K.

807

silent by whom and at what period these operations were
commenced. It is stated in Chaloner*s * Caledonia' (vol. iii.
p. 372) that John Comyn, Earl of Buchan, obtained from
Edward I. a license to dig for lead in the Calf of Man to cover
eight towers of his Castle of Cruggleton in Galloway. In the
course of the fifteenth, sixteenth, and seventeenth centuries, the
noble family of Stanley appear to have sought for copper in the
same neighbourhood : traces of their labours remain. The ore
discovered, though not abundant, was rich in quality, producing
six pennyweights of copper per oimce of ore. The vitriolic
character of some springs of water in that neighbourhood is
noted in Sacheverell's 'Account' 150 years ago, and in the
Statute-Book of the Isle of Man various notices of mining
operations occur under the dates a. d. 1422, 1613, 1618, 1630.
See * General View of the Agriculture of the Isle of Man, &c.*
by Thomas Quayle, Esq., 1812.

The neighbourhood of Laxey seems to have attracted atten-
tion about the beginning of the present century. Mr. Wood
was the first to draw up any particular account of the mine.
Writing in 1811 he says that a level had been begun about
thirty years previously, but not regularly worked, being much
incommoded with water. The vein wrought consisted of
common brown blende, lead glance, and occasionally green
carbonate of copper in a matrix chiefly of quartz ; small por-
tions of phosphate and of carbonate of lead were interspersed.
He also states that his information was, that the galena was so
rich in silver as to produce on assay 180 oz. to the ton. The
blende was for some time neglected, but latterly more attention
has been paid to its working and dressing, and it has obtained
a good price in the market. At a later period a second level
was driven into the hiU about a quarter of a mile Airther
down the stream and about 5 fathoms below the level of the
former excavation, for the purpose of drainage. The workings,
extending 200 yards into the heart of the mountain, were not
at first very productive. The number of hands employed in
1811 was only three at the time of Mr. Wood's visit. A new

806- APPENDIX K.

company haying been fonned for working the minerals in that
neighbourhood on a more extensive scale, has been amply re-
warded. When I yisited the mine last smnmer, I obtained the
foUowing notes from inspection and information on the spot : —

The mine (situated at a dbtance of about one and a half
mile from the sea up the Laxey valley) consists of the grand
day adit driven in the north-eastern face of the hill just above
the level of the stream, which flows along the bottom of the
valley. This adit runs N. 15^£. magnetic 400 &thoms into
the heart of the mountain. At 200 fathoms met with pro-
ductive ore. At this point it is met by the engine shaft at 23
fathoms from the surface. A second shaft meets this adit at
about 180 fathoms from its entrance. From this adit down-
wards various shafts are sunk upon the vein, and connected by
galleries at 20, 30, 35, 45, 50, 60, 70, 80, 100, 110, 120, 130
fathoms below it, the last being about the total depth of the
then workings below the level of the day adit. At that depth
the width of the vein was 16 feet, the vein hading to the east
magnetic one foot in a fathom out of the perpendicular ; it is
pursued on the strike to the north.

The number of men employed was 300, raising 60 tons of
lead per month at ^20 10«. per ton, 200 tons of black jack
mixed with the lead worth £2 10«. per ton, and 5 tons of
copper averaging ^5 per ton.

Both water and steam power is used ; the radius of the water-
wheel at the lower shaft is 17 yards.

The Foxdale mining ground has however hitherto proved
the most productive on the island, the proximity of the granite
of South Barrule having very beneficially afifected the mineral
riches of that neighbourhood. By analogy we may well con-
clude that the workings of the Laxey mine are likely to become
m<Nre valuable as they are carried in the direction of the Dhoon
granite. The Foxdale district extended across the northern
side of South Barrule, from Glen Bushen nearly eastward, or
rather to N. of £., which is the general strike of the productive
veins on the island.

APPENDIX K. 309

The present company was formed in 1823. They purehftsed
from Michael Knott, Esq., who was lessee under the late
Duke of Athol.

The chief workings at that time were upon what is generally
termed the Foxdale vein to the northward of the great granitic
hoss, crossed hy elvans striking out from the nucleus of the
granite. Very Httle except horse and water power had heen
employed, though there were at that time two small steam-
engines also at work, and the depth reached was never more
than 40 fathoms. The great workings are now carried <m at
the eastern and western extremities of the district, at Comelly
or Jones vein in the neighhourhood of Kenna, and at the
Beckwith vein in Glen Rushen. The Cronck Vane (White-hill)
mine, more in the centre of the district, on the hrow of the hill
betwixt Sleauwhallin and South Barrule, a few years ago was
worked with very great results. The miners appear to have
fallen in with one of those great sops or masses of ore which
I have noticed in the body of this work as generally charac-
teristic of limestone districts, but which appears as a peculiar
feature of this schistose country also.

At the time of my visit, in company with Professor Anste4
three years ago, the depth attained into the body of ore was
88 fethoms, the width of the vein or mass at its centre being
24 feet, thinning off to the £. and W. to about 4 feet. The
length of this body of productive ore was 14 fathoms. The
vein had generally a southerly dip, the walk being very clean,
and presenting in several places extensive appearances of
slickenside. "Hiere is very little gossan upon these veins, and
not in general any indication of their presence till the workman
comes directly upon the body of lead. The prediction of
Professor Ansted at that time, respecting the duration of the
working at the Cronck Vane mine, seems to have been fully
verified, as I found on my last visit to the place the works
abandoned.

The number of men and boys employed at the miaes of thiB
company in different parts of the district is genenilly about

310 APPENDIX K.

350, and the average raising of ore for the last ten years has
been about 2400 tons per annum. The product gives about /
per cent, for lead, and 9 oz. silver per ton.

The steam power now employed is very extensive and on
the newest principle.

The Ellersley mine on the Bishop's Barony is wrought by a
different company. It is situated to the eastward of the last-
mentioned district, about five miles from Douglas. It appears
to have been commenced on a very thin even vein, consisting
of a narrow thread of ore in veinstone, the outcrop being visible
at the surface in a small bum running from the ridge betwixt
Foxdale and Mount Murray. Considering the extremely rapid
and extensive variations m thickness and value observable in
the continuation of the vein westwards, it was not unreason-
able to hope that the result might be favourable in this spot,
notwithstanding that the distance from the granite or other
apparent change of ground was unsatisfactory.

It appears that, in accordance with the more usual conditions,
this latter indication was but too accurate, and the vein which
has been pursued from its outcrop upwards of 300 fathoms, at
a depth of from 6 to 10 fathoms presents such a striking
uniformity as greatly to discourage further working. At one
or two points cross courses have been met with, but they do
not affect the value of the vein.

Copper does not appear to have been wrought to any great
extent on the island. I discovered a small vein about two
years ago in the south of the Calf Islet, as also one at Port
Erin. There is a Copper Mining Company in Maughold
parish, but hitherto they have not succeeded in raising ore for
the market. The iron mines however in that parish are of a
very promising character. For a long period back small
parcels of that ofe had been wrought in several places. In
the year 1836 a company was formed, and procured a lease
fipom the Crown for twenty-one years. They opened a vein
known by the name of the * Glebe Vein,* not far to the west-
ward of Maughold Church, which proved productive and .was

APPENDIX L. 311

partially wrought for a few years. Latterly William Dixon,
Esq., of Glasgow haying become sole lessee, the mines during
the last three years have been more closely followed up, and
have produced an average shipment of about 500 tons per
month, fetching in the market I6s. per ton when pig iron is
£3 per ton. By a return from F. C. Skrimshire, Esq., Agent ^
for the Woods and Forests, I find that in the year 1846 a
royalty of ^232 was paid from this mine. About seventy men
are employed in connection with these works.

The quarries of stone and marble are not wrought extensively
on the island. They have paid latterly a royalty averaging
not more than ^90 per annum. By the insular laws every
person standing in need of limestone or building stone may
enter on his neighbour's land and dig and carry away what is
requisite for his own use, paying the occupier a reasonable
satisfaction, which appears to be interpreted merely surface
damage.

L. Page 187.
The Herring Fishery,

The herring fishery has always formed such an important
branch of the Isle of Man commerce, that a brief notice of it
seems necessary in the present work. In the year 1827 a
Committee of the House of Keys inquired into and reported
on the subject of the herring fishery to the following effect : —

" It would appear that, contrary to the generally received
opinion, a shoal or shoals of herrings enter St. George's
Channel from the south in the month of May, when the fishery
commences near Arklow on the coast of Ireland, and that the
progress of the fish to the northward is slow, Arklow, Ardglass,
and the Isle of Man being the successive fishing-grounds
frequented by the Cornish boats ; that the body of fish seldom
reaches the Isle of Man before the middle of June or later ;
that two coral-banks situated to the E. and W. of the island,
and chiefly the former, would seem to be the ultimate annual

312 APPENDIX L.

destination of this shoal or shoals, thetk spots hekig uniformlj
frequented hj them for the purpose of therein depositing their
spawn ; that after the completion of this process, in the months
of Octoher and Novemher, these shoals again return southward
with greater expedition than they had advanced, and fiuniah
a second or mnt&t fishing at Arklow in November. The
separate facts connecting this course of migration seem to be
distinctly shown in the evidence, and an Arklow fisherman
states the very conclusive circumstance, that in the summer
fishery the herrings always mesh with their heads to the
north, and in the winter with their heads to the south, or in
other words, that in summer they are caught to the south of
the net, and in the winter to the north of it."

An Account of the Number of Boats belonging to the Isle of
Man, whether decked or undecked, that have beem employed
in the year ended 5th January 1846 in the Herring, Cod,
Ling, and Inshore Fisheries.

Number of boats, whether decked or undecked . . 606

Number of fishermen and boys by whom ^

the said boats were manned . . . .3,813
Number of coopers employed .... 13
Number of persons emploved in packing . 186
Number of labourers employed .... 54

Total number of persons employed 4,066

Number of fish-curers 86

Tonnage of boats employed in the herring, cod, and

ling fisheries 5,145

Square yards of netting used in the herring fisheries 3,608,064
Yards of long lines and buoy ropes used in the
fisheries 386,400

Value of boats employed in the fisheries . . . 63,945
Value of nets employed in the fisheries . .'* . 18,792
Value of lines employed in the fisheries . . . 690

Total value of boats, nets, and lines, employed

in the fisheries 83,427

APPKNDIX 1^ 313

Of the above 606 boats there are 278 yawls that follow the
in-shore fishing, the tonnage and value of which have not been
ascertained.

283 boats follow the cod^ herring and Hng fisheriea; 45
smacks run fresh and bulk fish to Liverpool and other parts
in the Channel ; 606 bel<»g to the Isle of Man, and are maimed
by 3813 men ; 278 yawls follow the in-shore fisheries.

There are about
50 Irish vessels running fish to Liverpool,

6 men each 300 men

45 Welsh and English, 4 men each . . . 180

200 Irish fishing4K)at8, 8 men each . . . 1600

200 EngUsh fishing-boats, 8 men each . . 1600

495 vessels employing 3680 men

employed on the coast of the island during the fishing season
and consequently frequenting its harbours, in addition to the
606 vessels above-mentioned. Total, 1101 vessels manned by
7493 men.

The harbours on the west coast of the island will not accom-
modate half the above, neither Peel nor Port St. Mary can
ccmtain a quarter of the above vessels, and it is certain that
the deficiency of harbour-aceommodation prevents the exten-
sion of the fisheries ; the risk of life and property being great
even where there is harbour-room for the vessels, but much
greater where there is a deficiency, and that to so great an
extent as to prevent parties embarking capital.

30,352 barrels of herrings were cured in the above year, but
in the preceding year about 60,000 barrels were cured, and each
barrel is allowed to contain 800 herrings ; average price paid to
the fishermen is about 4«. per hundred, or 32«. per barrel, fresh.

The usual quantity allowed for the consumption of the
island when well-supplied is about 1 0,000 barrels. When there
is a medium fishing, the value of the herring, cod and ling
fisheries, together with the in-shore fishery, fluctuates between
^60,000 and ^80,000 per annum.

The returns exhibited in the following page are independent
of the number of vessels passing in the night-time, and those
visiting the island direct from Elnglond.

314

APPENDIX L.

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APPENDIX M. 315

M. Page 199.

An inquiry into the language anciently spoken by the Celtic
race shows that, as respects the British Isles at least, it divides
itself into two great dialects, which for convenience we may
term Cambrian and Gaelic, taking as types the Cymraeg as
spoken in Wales and the GaeUc as spoken in the Highlands
and islands of Scotland. A closer examination gives a still
further division, and as varieties or subdialects of the former
(the Welsh) we notice the old Cornish, which died out rather
more than a century ago, and the Armorican or language of
Bretagne, spoken by the lower classes of the present day* ;
as varieties of the latter (the Gaehc) we mark the Erse or
ancient Irish and the Manx. Thus the Manx, the Gaehc and
the Erse are sufficiently ahke to enable a person speaking
any one to understand the other two. This is not the case
between the Manx and the Welsh, though they have some
words in common or only shghtly differing. The Manx is
spoken generally in the mountain districts of the Isle of Man,
and in the north-western parishes. There are however few
persons (perhaps none of the young) who know no Enghsh.
Its orthography does not appear to have been fixed on any sure
principle, nor was it printed till just at the beginning of the
eighteenth century, when Bishop Wilson caused to be printed a
small tract in Manx and Enghsh entitled ' The Principles and
Duties of Christianity.'

Except one or two popular ballads, the earUest of wliich
seems to have been composed in the sixteenth century f, there

* The same dialect was spoken anciently in Cumberland, where a branch
of the Cymry maintained their ground till the close of the eighth century.
The Cymry clearly derive their name as being Cimbri, Cimmerii or
Gomerii, the offspring of Corner. So German again is simply Gomerian.

t It is entitled *' Mannanan Beg mac y Lheirr ; ny, slane coontey jeh
Elian Vannin.'' It commences with an account of Mannanan the neitro-
mancer, and the conversion of the Isle by St. Patrick, and terminates ^dth
the landing of Thomas, second Earl of Derby, in 1507. It was probably
composed about 1510. See Train's Histoiy, vol. 1. p. 50.

316 APPENDIX M.

is no native literature to reward the study of it. No dictionary-
has heen published of English into Manx, but there is a very
useful and copious dictionary of Manx into English by Mr.
Archibald Cregeen, printed in Douglas in 1835, which contains
also some introductory remarks which will be found serviceable
ill the examination. Dr. Kelly compiled a grammar* of the
language, but the copies are very scarce. He also compiled a
dictionary, of which a corrected copy went to press, but perished
by fire together with the printing-office.

The following notice f of some of the pecuUarities of the
language and the mutations of letters I have chiefly compiled
from Mr. Cregeen's work and Kelly's Grammar.

The Manx possesses a plural article ny (the), as ny deiney
(the men), ny claghyn (the stones) ; y and yn are the singular.

The adjective is placed after the substantive, as hooa ghoo
(a cow black), a black cow ; magher mooar (a field big), t. e. a
big field.

They say dhaa ghooiney, two man ; feed dooiney, twenty
man ; dhaa-eed dooiney, forty man ; not two menX, twenty men,
&c. ; yet they say tree deiney, three men ; kiare deiney, four
men, &c.

* ^' A Practical Grammar of the Antient Gaelc, or Language of the Isle
of Mann, usually called Manks.'' By the Rev. John Kelly, M.A., Vicar of •
Ardleigh, &c. Quarto, London, 1804.

t This must only be regarded as a very imperfect notice. There are a
great many exceptions to the niles which I have stated.

t We may well consider this as a dual.

The numerals are : —

Unnane {unity)^ or un before

9. Nuy.

substantives.

10. Jeih.

Jees (*oM), or dhaa before a

11. Unnane-jeig.

substantive.

12. Dhaa-yeig, &c. &c.

Troor {frine)^ obsolete ; tree

20. Feed (a score).

in common use.

21. Unnane-as-feed.

Kiare.

30. Jeih-as-feed.

Queig.

31. Unnane-jeig-as-feed.

Shey.

40. Dhaa-eed or dhaeed.

Shiaght.

60. Tree-feed.

8. Hoght.

APPENDIX M.

317

The substantives are all masculine or feminine, none neuter.

The adjective has also a plural, as dooiney rnaoar, a big man ;
deiney mooareyy big men.

The alphabet consists of the following letters : — a, 5, c, d,
^./> 9y K hj, h ly fn, w, o, p, q, r, «, sh, si, t, u, v, w, y. Of
these Cy d, g, I, m, p and t admitting an aspirate become ch,
dhy gh, Ih, mh, ph and th ; sh and si are considered as double
consonants, since they have a change peculiar to themselves.
Table of Mutable Consonants with their changes.

o**

^^1

b V m bea, life ; e vea, his life; nyn mea, our life.

c ch g carrey, a friend; e charrey, his friend; nyn garrey,

our friend,
ch h j chiam, a lord; e hiam, his lord; nyn jiam, our lord.
k ch g keyrey, a sheep ; e cheyrey, his sheep ; nyn geyrey, our
sheep,
foaySj advantage; e cays, his advantage; nyn voays,
our advantage.
p ph b pooar, power; e phooar, his power; nyn booar, our

. power. -

ph "Ij V phreeney, a pin; ereeney, his pin; nyn vreeney, our

* pin*.

q wh g quine, a yoke ; e whing, his yoke; nyn guing, our yoke.
s h t sooiUi an eye; ehooiU, his eye; nyn tooiU, our eye.
sh h ch shenn ghooiney, an old man ; e henn ghooiney, his old

man ; yn chenn ghooiney, the old man.
si Ih cl slat, a rod; e Ihat, his rod; yn clat, the rod.
t h dh towse, a measure; e bowse, his measure; nyn dhowse,
our measure.

I have termed the second and third columns aspirates and

gutturals from their prevailing characters. The / and ph when

aspirated pass at once into a mere breathing or are quiescent,

as the old Greek digamma. The following consonants admit

but one change : —

dooiney, a man ; e ghooiney, his man.
ffeay, wind; e gheay, his wind.
Jee, God; e Yee, his God.
mo3nm, pride ; e voym, his pride.

* This instance is given in Kelly's Grammar, but it is of rare occurrence.

Radical.

Aspirate.

818 APPENDIX If.

It is to be observed that a labial is never changed to a den-
tal, nor a dental to a labial.

The changes of these initial letters are made either for the
sake of euphony, or thej are indicative of gender, government,
declension, &c. Thus words of the feminine gender change
the initial of their following adjective : as dooiney bane, a fair
man ; ben vane, a fair woman.

When two substantives come together belonging to different
things, the latter if masculine, and the article y or yn precede
it, changes its initial into the aspirate* ; if feminine, the article
ny instead of yn is used in the genitive without any change of
the initial letter.

If an adjectivef be placed before its substantive, the initial
of the substantive is changed into its aspirate : as droffh^hootney,
a bad man ; shenn ven^ an old woman.

The plural of nouns is generally formed by the terminations
yn, ghyn or aghyn added to the singular, and sometimes by the
change of vowels : as mac, a son ; mecy sons : fer, a man ; fir,
men : keeilly a church ; Mai teeny n, churches.

The pronouns personal are mee or ytn;^, I ; oo, thou ; eh, he ;
ee, she ; shiny main or mayd, we ; shiu, ye ; aif, they. These
are placed after the verbs with which they are joined.

The root of the verb seems to be the imperative mood. The
different tenses present and past are formed by means of auxi-
liary verbs, and the participles, the future and aorist (answering
to the English perfect by inflection) by certain changes in the
initial letter and by postfixes.

The auxiliary verbs are dy ve, to he ; dy vSd, to be able.

In interrogative sentences the Manx use vel instead of ta

* Words beginning with d^Jt t, of the mntable consonants are excepted.

t The adjectives so placed are <fro^A,bad ; thenn, old ; also giaref short ;
and Ihofff loose (English slack ?).

X I have put down ym as one form of the nominative, though it is not
^n use by itself. It appears however in the genitive aym, i. e. ee-^ym (of
me), and the compounds foym (fo-ym), under me ; aynym (ayn«-^m), in
me ; rhym (ri8k-ym)t to me, &c. ; and in the first person of the future tense
of verbs as a pronominal affix^ as in caillee ym (I shall lose).

APPENDIX M« 319

(am, &c.) : tistame (I am), vel me (am I ?) ; ta shin (we are),
vel shin (are we?).

The following is the conjugation of the verb dy ve, to he,

INDICATIVE MOOD. PRESENT' TENSE.

Sing. Ta mee, I am\ ta oo or t'ou, th^m art ; t'eh or ta eh,

he M ; fee, she is.
Plur. Ta shin, we are ; ta shiu, ye are ; t'ad, tJiey are.

PRETERIMPERFECT.

Sing. Va mee, / was ; t'ou, thou wast ; v'eh, he was ; v'ee,

she was.
Plur. Va shin, we were ; va shiu, ye were ; v'ad, they were.

PRETE RPE RFECT.

Sing. Ta mee er ve, I have been ; t'ou er ve, thou hast been ;

t'eh er ve, Ae has been ; t'ee^ ve, she has been.
Plur. Ta shin er ve, we have been ; ta shiu er ve, ye have

been ; t'ad er ve, they have been.

PRETERPLVPERFECT.

Sing. Va me er ve, I had been ; v'ou er ve, thou hadst been ;

v*eh er ve, he had been.
Plur. Va shin er ve, we had been ; va shiu er ve, ye had

been ; v'ad er ve, they had been.

FUTURE.

Sing. Bee'm, / shall be ; bee oo, thou shalt be ; bee eh, he

shall be ; b^ ee, she shall be.
Plur. Bee mayd^ we shall be ; bee shiu, ye shall be ; bee ad,

they shall be.

IMPERATIVE MOOD.

Bee, be thou, Bee-jee, be ye.

SUBJUNCTIVE MOOD. PRESENT TENSE.

Sing. (My) vee'm, (if) I be ; (My) vees oo, (if) thou be, &c.
Plur. (My) vees mayd, (if) we be ; (my) vees shiu, (if) ye be,
&c.

320

APPENDIX M.

PRETERIMPERFECT.

Sififf. Veign, / miffht be ; veagh oo, thou migktH he ; yeagh

eh, he might be.
Plur. Veagh shin, we might be ; veagh shiu, ge might be ;

veagh ad, they might be.

PRETERPERFECT AND PRETERPL.UPERFECT.

Veign er ye, / might have been, &c.

INFINITIVE MOOD.

Present. Dy ye, to be.

PARTICIPLES.

Present. Wanting. Preterit. Er ye, having been.

Future. Er-chee ye, about to be.

Row, was, is also an auxiliary of the past tense, but used
also in supplications for the future : as, Shee dy row marin !
Mag peace be with us !

The following is an example of a r^ular yerb : —
Dy choayl, to lose ; from the root caill, lose thorn*

' indicative mood. — present tense.
Sing. Ta mee coayl, I am losing, &c.
Plur. Ta shin coayl, we are losing, &c.

imperfect.
Sing. Va mee coayl, / was losing, &c.
Plur. Va shin coayl, we were losing, &c.

AORIST.

Sing. Chaill me, / lost, &c.
Plur. Chaill shin, we lost, &c.

PRETERPERFECT.

Sing. Ta mee er choayll, I have lost, &c.

PRETERPLUPERFECT.

Sing. Va mee er choayll, I had lost, &c.

APPENDIX M. 321

FUTURE.

Sinff. Caillee-ym, I shall lose ; caillee oo, thou shall lose, &c.
Plur. Caillee mayd ershin, we shall lose ; caillee shiu, ye shall
lose, &c,

IMPERATIVE MOOD.

Caill, lose thou. Caill-jee, lose ye.

The Subjunctive Mood may be fonned through the auxiliary
foddym, I may he able : thus, —

PRESENT TENSE.

Sing. Foddym coayll, I may lose-, foddee oo coayll, thou
mayst lose, &c.

Or, more regularly, after the adverbs dy, that; my, if:

thus, —
Sinff. (My) gaillyn, (*/) I may Use ; (my) gaill oo, (if) thou
mayst lose.

PRETERIMPERFECT.

Sing. Yinnyn coayl, I might lose ; yinnagh oo coayl, thou
mightst lose.

AORIST.

Sing. Chaillin, I would lose ; chaillagh oo, thou wouldst lose,
&c.

PRETERPERFECT AND PRETERPLU PERFECT.

Sing. Veign-er-choayl, / Aa«? or might have lost, &c.

INFINITIVE MOOD.

Present. Dy choayl, to lose.

Participle PRESENT. Codij\, losing. — Preterit. Er choayl,

having Zo«#.— Future. Er chee coayl, about losing.

— Supine. Caillit, lost.

The passive voice is formed by the auxiliary verb dy ve and
the supine : as, Ta me caiUit, I am lost, &c.

The following copy of the Lord's Prayer in Manx, with an

822 APPENDIX N.

interlined English version, will give an idea of the structure of
the language : —

Ayr ain t* ayna nian, Casherick dy row dt' Ennym. Dy jig
Father our who art in heaven. Holy (may) he thy name. Come
dty reeriaght. Dt' aigney dy row jeant er y thalloo myr te
thy kingdwn. Thy will be done on the earth as it is
ayns niau. Cur dooin nyn arran jiu as gagh laa. As
in heaven. Give to us our bread today and every day. And
leih dooin nyn loghtyn myr ta shin leih daiiesyn ta
forgive to us our trespasses as are we forgive to those are

jannoo loghtyn nyn 'oi. As ny leeid shin ayns

committing trespasses us against. And not lead us into
miulagh; agh livrey shin veih oik. Son Ihiats y reeriaght,
temptation J Imt deliver us from evil. For thine the kingdom
as y phooar as y ghloyr, son dy bragh as dy bragh. Amen.
and the power arid the glory, for the ever and the ever. Amen,

*N. Page 204.

The life of Bishop Thomas Wilson is given at fall length in
the editions of his works by Crutwell. There is also an able
biography of him by the late Rev. Hugh Stowell, Rector of
Ballaugh, and another by the Rev. Richard Hone. From the
former the following is a brief abstract : —

Thomas Wilson was bom at Burton in Cheshire, on the
20th December 1663, of "honest parents fearing God,'* as he
himself says. His father, who died in 1702, was descended
from a family which from time immemorial had lived in that
neighbourhood ; his mother was sister to Dr. Sherlock, Dean of
Chichester. His early education he received from Mr. Harper,
a schoolmaster of Chester, with whom he continued till his
admission into Trinity College, Dublin, in 1680. It Vfas his
intention originally to study medicine, but having contracted
an intimacy with Archdeacon Hewetson, that pious dignitary
perceiving his serious and earnest disposition, and his peculiar
fitness for the ministerial office, prevailed on him to turn
his attention to divinity studies, which he did, and on St.
Peter's day, 1686, he was ordained deacon by Dr. Morton,

JLPPENDIX N. 323

Bishop of KUdare, on the daj of the consecration of the ca-
thedral church of Kildare, when he, in conjunction with Arch-
deacon Hewetson, presented at the offertory a small silver
paten for the service of the holy tahle. It is to Archdeacon
Hewetson's friendship and early counsel we must in great part
attribute that high tone of Church feeling which pervaded all
the ailer-acts of his life as well as the writings which he has
left behind him. In a memorandum-book kept by Bishop
Wilson, we find at the commencement of it, written in the
Archdeacon's own hand, a short notice of the ordination of his
dear young friend, " with some advices thereupon." Amongst
them the following memoranda will sufficiently point out the
sentiments of their author upon Church order and discipline: —

*' To say morning and evening prayer, either pubUckly or
privately, every day, is the Church's express command in one
of the rubricks before the calendar."

" In church to behave always very reverently, nor ever to
turn the back upon the altar in service-time, nor on the mi-
nister when it can be avoided ; to stand at the Lessons and
Epistle, as well as at the Gospel, and especially when a Psalm
is sung ; to bow reverently at the name of Jesus whenever
it is mentioned in any of the Church's ofSces ; to turn to-
wards the east when the Gloria Patri and the Creeds are re-
hearsing ; and to make obeisance at coming into and going
out of the church, and at going up to and coming down from
the altar ; are all antient, commendable and devout usages, and
which thousands of good people of our Church practise at this
day."

Archdeacon Hewetson continued to correspond with and to
advise Mr. Wilson till 1704. On the 10th of December 1686
he was licensed to the curacy of New-Church, in the parish of
Winwick, Lancashire, of which his uncle. Dr. Sherlock, was
.' rector, on a stipend of i^30 per annum ; and on 20th October
1689 he was ordained priest. Three years afterwards he was
appointed domestic chaplain to William ninth Earl of Derby,
and tutor to his son James Lord Strange, afterwar<}s tenth and

324 APPENDIX N.

last Earl connected with the Isle of Man. Mr. Wilson took
great pains with his noble pupil, whose principal faults were
want of consideration and a precipitancy of temper. The foU
lowing extraordinary instance of his management on a parti-
cular occasion is a proof at once of his upright character and
^thfulness. One day as Lord Strange was going to set his
name to a paper which he had not read, Mr. Wilson dropped
some burning sealing-wax on his finger ; the sudden pain made
him very angry, but his tutor soon pacified him by observing
that he did it in order to impress a lasting remembrance on his
mind never to sign or seal any paper- he had not first read and
attentively examined.

In the year 1697 the Earl of Derby offered him the Bishop-
ric of the Isle of Man, which had been vacant since the death
of Dr. Baptiste Levinz, who died in 1693. This kind offer
Mr. Wilson modestly declined, alleging that he was unequal
to as well as unworthy of so great a charge. Dr. Sharp, Arch-
bishop of York, afterwards complaining to King William that
a bishop was wanting in his province to fill the see of Man,
and the King urging the matter with the Earl of Derby, and
threatening to fill up the vacancy himself, the Earl insisted on
his chaplain accepting the preferment, and thus was he, to use
his own expression, " forced into the Bishopric." On the
15th January 1697-8, Mr. Wilson, being first created D.C.L.
by the Archbishop of Canterbury, was confirmed Bishop of
Man at Bow Church by Dr. Oxendm, Dean of the Arches,
and the next day ccmsecrated at the Savoy by Dr. Sharp, Arch-
bishop of York, assisted by the Bishops of Chester and Nor-
wich. On April 5th fc^owing he landed at Derby Haven in
the Isle of Man, and on the llth was enthroned in the ca-
thedral of St. German, within Peel Castle. The value of the
Bishopric at that time did not exceed ^^00 in money, and
when he arrived at it he found his palace in a most ruinous '
condition, nothing in fact remaining of it entire but an old
chapel and tower. Yet with extraordinary economy he ma-
jiaged to lay aside from his income enough to build, first of «^

APPENDIX N. 325

1^ new church at Castletown, of which he laid the foundation
in 1 698, and next hy degrees to put his palace and demesne
into order, which last, according to a private memorandum,
cost him upwards of ^1400. In compensation for the con-
dition in which he found his residence, and from a conviction
of his worthiness, the Earl of Derhy offered to him the Uving
of Baddesworth to hold in commendam, hut this he most con-
scientiously and nohly refused as utterly inconsistent Vith his
duty. He married in 1698 Mary, daughter of Thomas Patten,
Esq., hy whom he had four children, two hoys and two girls,
only one of whom, the youngest (Thomas), grew up to man's
estate.

The life of this good Bishop was a forcihle illustration of
that declaration of Scripture, '* The path of the just is as a
shining light, shining more and more unto the perfect day."
The character given of Cyprian, Bishop of Carthage, very faith-
folly talHes with his : — " Faith and love and native simpticity
appear to have heen possessed hy him when an early conveit.
He saw with pity the poor of the flock, and he knew no method
so proper of employing the unrighteous mammon as in relieving
their distress. His looks had the due mixture of gravity and
cheerfolness, so that it was douhtfol whether he was more
worthy of love or reverence ; his dress also was correspondent
to his looks. He had renounced the secular pomp to which
his rank had entitled him ; yet he avoided affected penury."
Bishop Wilson's Uherahty was sudi, that it was said by a gen-
tleman who kn^w him well, that " he kept beggars from every
body's door but his own." The following anecdote is to the
same purport. He had ordered a cloak to be made by his
tailor, giving him directions that it should be quite plain, with
merely a button and a loop to fasten it. " But, my lord," said
the tailor, " what would become of the poor button-makers and
their families, if every one thought in that way ? They would
be starved outright." " Do you say so, John ?" replied the
good Bishop ; " why then button it all over, John."

He was most unceasing in the discharge of the duties of his

326 Atnifmx y.

episcopate, and laborious in preaching throtighout the diocese.
He very frequently on Sunday rode out to distant parishes
without giving the clergy any warning, doing duty and return- .
ing to Bishop's Court to dinner, and this even after he was
eighty years of age, and on horseback. In his private diary
we find under date 1712, "I supplied the vacant vicarage of
Kirk Arbory for on^year, and applied the income towards build-
ing a new vicarage-house ; with this and what I begged, and two
pounds ten shillings I gave myself, and the assistance of the
parish, we have erected one of the best houses in the diocese."

On comparing his discourses with the generality of those
preached in England during the period in which he Uved, we
cannot but be struck with their clear and full development
of Evangelical truth. And yet there has been perhaps no
prelate more deeply impressed with a sense of the dignity and
importance of the episcopal office, or more jealous of any in-
fringement upon the authority committed to him in the Church
of Grod. In these points he was ready to suffer as for righ-
teousness' sake, and he did suffer : his imprisonment in Castle
Bushen is well known. It was entirely upon a matter of Church
discipline, and on a subject greatly affecting the independence
and purity of the Church of this Isle.

A doubt has sometimes been expressed as to whether the
Canons of the English Church which received in the year 1603
the sanction of the clergy of the province of Canterbury, and
were afterwards enjoined upon the whole Church by the King,
are actually binding upon the clergy of the province of York,
who did not assent to them. It is agreed that they are not bind^
ing upon the laity in either province, as they did not receive the
sanction of Parliament. The Isle of Man is in the province of
York, and the proctors for the clergy are summoned with the
rest of the bishops and clergy of that province to Convocation.
Now as even the English Acts of Parliament do not apply to the
Isle of Man, nor is the Act of Uniformity (as such) binding here,
there being no record of its adoption by the Insular legislature,
and the approbation and signature of the Lord of the Isle, a stil)

APPENDIX N. 327

stronger doubt may be raised upon tbe question of the validity
of the English Canon law in this diocese. The Manx Church
has always had its own peculiar and independent Canon law,
and has been goyemed by it ; and as respects the last of those
enacted^ drawn up by Bishop Wilson, there is no doubt of their
being now binding equally upon clergy and laity. They are
in fact Statute law, haying been passed in the insular Convo-
cation of the Clergy and in the House of Keys, confirmed by
the Earl of Derby as Lord of the Isle, and published accord-
ingly at the Tynwald Hill, June 6th, 1704.

Lord Chancellor Eang was so much pleased with these Con*
stitutions, that he said, '* If the ancient discipline of the Church
were lost, it might be found in all its purity in the Isle of
Man." Amongst these Canons, the fifth runs thus : — " For
the more effectual discouragement of vice, if any person shall
incut the censures of the Church, and having done penance,
shall afterwards incur the same censures, he shall not be ad-
mitted to do penance again (as has been formerly accustomed)
until the Church be fully satisfied of his sincere repentance ;
during which time he shall not presume to come within the
church, but be obhged to stand in a decent manner at the
church door every Sunday and holiday the. whole time of
-morning and evening service, until by his penitent behaviour
and other instances of sober tiving, he deserve and procure a
certificate from the minister, churchwardens and some of the
soberest men of the parish to the satisfaction of the Ordinary ;
which if he do not deserve and procure within three months,
the Church shall proceed to excommunication ; and that during
these proceedings the Governor shall be appHed to not to per-
mit him to leave the island."

In Bishop Wilson's History of the Isle of Man, the follow-
ing passage occurs : — " There is one very wholesome branch of
Church discipline, the want of which in many other places is
the occasion that infinite disorders go unpunished ; viz. the
injoining offenders purgation by their own oaths and the oaths
of compurgators (if need be) of known reputation, and a severe

32ft APPENDIX N,

penalty is laid upon any that shall after this reyive the scan-
dal." Mrs. Home, wife of Captain Home, Govemor of the
Isle of Man in the year 1729, accused Mrs. Puller, a widow
lady of fair character, of improper intimacy with Sir James
Pool, and Archdeacon Horrohin, the Government Chaplain,
upon this accusation debarred Mrs. Puller from the Holy Com-
munion. She had recourse to the above mode pointed out by
the constitution of the Church to prove her innocence, and she
and Sir James Pool took the oath before the Bishop, with com-
purgators of the best character. No evidence being produced
of their guilt, they were by the Bishop cleared of the charge,
and Mrs. Home sentenced to ask pardon of the parties whom
she had so unjustly traduced. This she refused to do, and
treated the Bishop and his authority, as well as the ecclesiastical
constitution of the island, with contempt. She was conse-
quently put under censure, and banished from the Lord's Sup-
per till atonement should be made. In defiance of this censure
the Archdeacon received her at the Communion, and was in
consequence suspended by the Bishop. The Archdeacon, in-
stead of appealing to his Metropolitan, the Archbishop of York,
the only legal judge to whom the appeal could b^ made, threw
himself on the civil power, and the Govemor fiped the Bishop
£50, and his two Vicars-general, who had been officially con-
cerned in the suspension, ^20 ^ach. This fine they all re-
fused to pay as arbitrary and unjust ; on which the Grovemor
sent a party of soldiers, and they were on 29th June 1 722 com-
mitted to the prison of Castle Rushen, where they were closely
confined, and no persons admitted within the walls to see or
converse with them. The Govemor would not even permit
the Bishop's housekeeper, Mrs. Heywood, the daughter of a
former govemor, to see him, or any of his servants to attend
him in his confinement. From the dampness of the prison,
the good Bishop contracted a disorder in his right-hand, which
disabled him from the free use of his fingers, and he ever after
wrote with his whole hand grasping the pen. He was con-
fined in this prison for two months, but released at the end of

ATFENDIX N.* 329

that time by petition to the King ; and on the 4th July 1 724,
the King in council reversed all the proceedings of the officers
of the island, declaring them to he oppressive, arbitrary and
unjust. The expenses of his trial were very great, and it is said
that when his lawyers' hills were paid, little indeed remained
to him or his son. The Eong offered him the Bishopric of
Exeter to reimburse him, but he could not be prevailed on to
quit his own diocese, nor would he prosecute the Governor to
recover damages, though urged so to do. He had established
the discipline of the Church, and he sincerely and charitably
forgave his persecutors. The concern of the people was so
great when they heard of his imprisonment, that they assem-
bled in crowds, and it was with difficulty they were restrained
from pulling down the Governor's house by the mild behaviour
and persuasion of the Bishop, who was permitted to speak to
them only through a grated window, or from the walls of the
Castle, whence he blessed and exhorted hundreds of them
daily, telling them that he meant to appeal to Csesar.

The attachment between the Bishop and his flock was mu-
tual, and so well known, that in the year 1 735, when attending
a levee of Queen Caroline, where there were several prelates in
attendance, she turned roimd, and said, " See here, my lords,
is a bishop who does not come for a translation." '' No indeed,
please your Majesty," replied the good Bishop, " I will not
leave my wife in my old age because she is poor." He had
before this been offered English bishoprics by Queen Anne and
George I.

He seems to have had an instinctive dread of the evils hkely
to befall his diocese from the introduction of novel practices by
innovatmg clergymen of the EngUsh Church.

In the year 1740 an application was made to the Bishop
for leave to raise a subscription for a Sunday evening lecture
at Douglas, to be preached by a clergyman lately come from
England. His Lordship refused his assent, and his reasons
for so doing are expressed in a letter to one of his clergy who
made the application, commencing thus : " Your scheme, as you

330 APPENDIX N.

call it, if suffered to take place, would be attended widi more
evil consequences than I have now time to mention, or, I hope,
than what you have thought of; otherwise you would sure
have consulted your Bishop before you would have suffered it
so much as to have been spoken of; because, where people
hare taken a thing in their heads, right or wrong, they will be
apt to lay the blame on those that oppose them, and reflect
upon their judgement, discretion and piety ; which I expect
will be the consequence because I will not run headlong into
your schemes, which would, in a great measure, set aside the
express duties of catechising bound upon us by, laws, rubricks
and canons, which if performed as they should be, with
seriousness and pains in explaining the several parts of the
Catechism, would be of more use to the souls both of the
learned and ignorant than the very best sermon out of the
pulpit. This, I say, after a serious, plain and practical sermon
in the morning by a minister of Jesus Christ who preaches by
his pious life and example, as you say that gentleman doth,
and I believe it, will answer all the ends of instruction without
an afternoon sermon, which being a novelty in this diocese, may
be attended with unforeseen mischiefs, which you yourself may
have reason to repent of, and the rest of your brethren have
reason to blame you for, if I should be so weak as to comply
with your inconsiderate project," &c. &c.

The language of Bishop Wilson on this occasion, though
severe, may be regarded as in a measure prophetic. Enghsh
practices have so far been adopted, that public catechising,
except on particular occasions, has ceased in this diocese. The
present Bishop of St. Asaph, when Bishop of Man, laboured
by exhortation and example to restore it, but met with Httle
success or encouragement.

Bishop Wilson's earnestness on this subject was continued
to the close of his life ; indeed in one of his latest Charges to
Convocation, delivered when he was 84 years of age, he ex-
pressly says, " In every one almost of our yearly meetings on
this day, I have taken occasion of insisting, more or less, upon

APPENDIX N. 831

the duty and the necessity of catechising in the Churchy hound
upon us as strictly as laws and canons and conscience can
oblige any minister of God."

Bishop Wilson, though most sensitively alive to everything
within the Church which seemed to infringe upon his authority
and its ancient order and discipline, was most Hberal in his
sentiments towards those without. His biographer informs us
that "he was so great a friend to toleration that the Papists
who resided in the island loved and esteemed him, and not un-
irequently attended his sermons and prayers. The Dissenters
too attended even the Communion Service, as he had allowed
them a Uberty to sit or stand ; which however they did not
make use of, but behaved in the same manner with those of
the Established Church. A few Quakers who resided on the
island visited, loved, and respected him."

He did not interfere in temporal or political concerns, unless
when called upon at the* request of the inhabitants to serve
them on particular occasions. Such an occasion was that
when he gained for the people from the Earl of Derby their
Magna Charta, the Act of Settlement. Again, in the year
1 740, a year of great scarcity and famine and pestilence on
the island, the Bishop distributed all his own com and bought
up what he could at a very high price, selling it out to the
poor at a low ; and when all the com of the island was well
nigh exhausted, he engaged his don to make interest with his
Majesty, by which an order in council was obtained, taking off
the embargo for a certain time upon com imported into the
Isle of Man.

He established a fund for the support of clergymen's widows
at the suggestion of his son in 1 730. The money collected by
him and placed in the English funds amounted at that time to
£\2 per annum. Afterwards the thirds of the Hving of Kirk
Michael were purchased and made over to tmstees for the use
of that charity for ever, and at the present time, from the com-
muted tithes of the island, ^141 per annum is paid as its
equivalent.

332 APPENDIX N.

His early medical studies he turned to great account, and
practised as a physician, bodily as well as spiritually, to the
poor of the island. He kept a constant store of medicines,
which he distributed as well as his adyice gratis. His private
papers note almost annually the gift of sums of money for the
erection of churches, parsonages and school-houses, in his own
diocese and elsewhere. He always kept an open, hospitable
table covered with the produce of his own demesnes in a
plentiful though not extravagant manner, and he maintained
in his own house, under his own immediate care and instruc-
tion, candidates for holy orders.

The Bishop held an ordination ixi the year 1 751, and another
in 1752. In the year 1753 he consecrated a new chapel at
Bamsey. His death followed two years after.

The following singular letter I discovered amongst some
papers of Bishop Wilson in the possession of the Vicar of
Malew, in the Isle of Man. It is simply the original draft,
and the name of the person to whom it is written does not
occur in it, yet from the contents there can be little doubt
that it was addressed to the Honorable Archibald Campbell,
one of the Nonjuring Bishops*, who pubUshed a work in 1721
entitled * The Doctrine of a Middle State, &c.,' also a * Preser-
vative against several of the Errors of the Roman Church.*
Bishop Campbell's own copy of this work, with his MS. notes
upon it, is in my possession.

*'Honour'dSir,

" I had not the Fav' of y" upon the middle state and
against Popery till a^* a month ago ; by w* misfortune it came
no sooner, I cannot yet learn ; and hope you have rec^ the
Price of it long before this, I having writ twice to my friend
to wh"* you delivered it, to see you satisfied, w** I hope he has

• The Honorable Archibald Campbell, after having been long in priest's
orders, and after having long resided in London, was on August 25, 1711,
consecrated a Bishop by the deprived Bishops Rose, Douglas, and Falconer.
He was elected Bishop of Aberdeen in 1721, which charge he resigned in
1724. He died June 16, 1744.

APPENDIX N, 333

done. The subject was not altogether new to me ; for besides
what I could not but observe in my former readings, I had
seen y' lesser peice soon after it was published.

"Whatever objections may be made ag** Perfecting our con-
dition in a future state, and the benefit th5 members of the
Church in Paradise may reap from the Prayers of the Church
on earth, the Doctrine of an Intermediate State is too well
grounded upon the H. Scriptures to be opposed by any, except
such as are much prejudiced or unacquainted with that subject.

" But as well as a middle state is founded, and y* a Regular
advance to Perfection seemed to be the just consequence of such
a Doctrine, and altho' the Primitive Church had their Com-
memorations of, and Prayers for such as died with the seal of
Faith ; Yet since that Practice was not founded upon the H.
Scriptures, and the consequence of restoring it at the Reforma-
tion might have been of as bad consequence as it w^ have been
to have continued the Agapse in the Primitive Church which
were therefore by Her laid aside ; one w^ not too severely blame
our Reformers, who thought it not convenient to continue the
rep. of Prayers for the dead in the PubUck service ; especially
as they have not condemned it in their Articles, but have left it
to the discretion of every pious member of our communion to
beUeve and Act in this particular as he thinks fit.

" And indeed if that Grand Delusion and dreadful doctrine of
the Popish Purgatory, if this in all appearance has no better
effect upon the generahty of that communion than to make
them trust too securely to a deathbed repentance, and as is
much to be feared has been the ruin of many souls; what
might be the consequence if our People should come to be
persuaded that without the terrors of a Purgatorial Fire they
might thro' the Prayers of the Church escape the just pimish-
ment of their negligence and disobedience, and attain such a
Perfection as sh** render them acceptable to God at the day of
Judgnt? ^^jj considering the corruption of Human Nature,
one cannot but fear that in time some such practice as is now
the Reproach of the Church of Rome w^ be introduced into

334 APPENDIX O.

the Reformed Churchy and too many w^ think they should
make a saying hargain to part with a good deal of money's to
be secure of the Prayers of the Church, and not in the mean-
time to be oblig'd to part w*** their lusts.

" I do not renifember, y* in y' elaborate collection of S. S. you
have taken notice of a Text, w^ appears to Me expressly to
determine the Doctrine of an intermediate State, and that the
Souls of the Elect are in very different mansions betwixt
Heaven and Earth according to the different Degrees of
Holiness w^ they have attained unto, and this until the Day
of Judgement .—The Text, Mark 1 3, 27. If I have overlooked
it in y' work, you '11 pardofi me."

O. Page 205.
Owing in some measure to its insular position, as well as the
limited extent of the diocese, enabling the bishop really to
oversee his flock, the Manx Church has been able to maintain
more of ancient order and discipline than pertains to any other
diocese in the British Isles. It is hardly hkely that this can
continue to be the case much longer, now that the communica-
tion with England is so easy and constant, and the influx of
non-natives so large. Indeed for some years past many of the
Church statutes really available for the suppression of vice and
the maintenance of order have been practically a dead letter.
I am informed that it is now about twenty years since the last
act of public penance was performed in a case of incest. Bishop
Wilson, in his ' History of the Isle of Man,' speaks of the
practice as very general in his day, and most primitive and
edifying; and he drew up a form for the reconciliation of
penitents, which was constantly used. The practice of com-
purgation, which I have noted in his life, may now be con-
sidered as virtually abolished. As yet no marriages are legal
except as performed by the clergy of the Church, though a
bill has passed the insular legislature making an alteration in
favour of Dissenters, similar to the change which took place
ten years ago in England*

APPENDIX O. 335

Although the English Act of Uniformity, as before observed,
cannot (as such) be regarded as binding in the Isle of Man,
yet the uniformity of Rubrical observance in country churches
where Manx clergymen officiate is much more exact than in
England. The offertory question for instance, which has
produced so much ill feeling in the Enghsh Church, has not at
all affected this diocese, because the offertory itself has never !
been dropped ; and on Sundays when the Holy Communion is
administered, the non-communicants withdraw as a matter of
course after the prayer for "the Whole State of Christ's Church
Militant here in earth," without the blessing. The absence of /
a poor-law on the island, rendering this ancient method of
collecting the alms of the congregation more necessary, may
perhaps more than anything else have tended to the preserva-
tion of this practice. Yet there is also an undercurrent, so to
speak, of ancient Church usages clearly remaining, though only
feebly developed and very imperfectly understood, which is not
influenced by any such necessity. The practice for instance >
may be mentioned amongst the old people of bowing, not only
at the name of Jesus, but also when the Gloria Patri is re-
hearsed ; a practice which seems to have been adopted in ancient
times as a distinctive mark of the orthodox, in acknowledge-
ment of the mystery of the eternal Trinity.

Bishop Hildesley notes as a peculiar mark of Manx church- '
manship that the common people reckon their time by the
canonical church hours as a standard, saying so many hours
before or after " traa sherveish," i. e. service-time. The Manx
continue several singular and ancient usages in connection with
the Church festivals. Amongst them those practised at the
Oiel Varrey (or Eail Varrey), the vigil of Mary, or the night of
the feast of Mary, i. e. Christmas Eve, attract most attention.
The churches as in England being largely decked out with
evergreens, the parishioners assemble for evening prayer, bear-
ing in their hands to the church' large candles prepared for
the occasion, a species of rivalry existing as to who shall bring
the largest. Aftier the prayers and generally a sermon referring

336 APPENDIX O.

to the Nativity, an intimation is given by the clergyman that
any persons having carols to sing may commence. Choirs of
singers then in different parts of the church relieve each other
in turn, and the singing of anthems and carols is often kept
up till a late hour.

. The perambulations and acting of the White Boys at the
same season is kept up still with as much vigour as in England,
but on St. Stephen's day they have a practice which seems
peculiar to themselves called " hunting the wren." Boys go
out in parties into the fields, and when they have discovered a
wren they pursue it with sticks and stones. Having secured
their prize, they suspend it on a perch between two osier twigs
decked out with ribbons and evergreens, and carry it about
from house to house soUciting subscriptions and singing a song,
in which allusion seems to be made to the stoning of St.
Stephen, and the giving alms to the halt, the lame, and the
blind*. Wherever they receive money they give in return a
feather of the bird, which after a successful day's tour is pretty
well plucked. In the evening they carry out the wren for
burial.

The convocation of the clergy has been occasionally alluded
to, and more particularly in reference to the Canons and Con-
stitutions Ecclesiastical of Bishop Wilson. In order to secure
the discipline of the Church (as Bishop Wilson says), the
bishop calls a convocation of his clergy at least once a year.
The day appointed by law is Thursday in Whitsun week (if
the bishop be in the Isle), when he has an opportunity of
inquiring how the discipline of the Church has been observed,
and by the advice of his clergy of making such constitutions as
are necessary for its better government. It is one token of
the independence of the Manx Church, as really a separate
national church governed by its own laws, that the clergy can
so meet, and that canons so passed have become law by the

* The Manx have a proverb" peculiar to themselves, to this purport :
" Tra ta yn deny vought cooney lesh bought elley, ta Jeehene garaghtee :"
i. e. fFhen one poor man relieves another, God himself rejoices at it, or more
literally, laughs outright.

APPENDIX 0. 337

consent of the laity in the house of representatives, and of the
Lord of the Isle as supreme Grovemor in Church and State.
So again the circumstance that Bishop Wilson drew up forms
of puhlic prayer which were used on various occasions, such
for instance as that for the herring fishery, is another evidence
of the same independence. We may mention to the same end
also, the introduction into the litany and the present constant
use of a prayer for the fisheries. The petition runs thus,
" that it may please to hless and preserve to our use the kindly
fruits of the earth, and to restore and continue to its the
blessings of the sea, so as in due time we may enjoy them.*'

It certainly seems somewhat singular that with this liberty
no such prayer has been introduced as is in use in Ireland and
in the different colonies of Great Britain, in behalf of the
Lieut.-Govemor of the Isle for the time being, as well as
another which seems desirable for the House of the Insular
Legislature. Why the British ParHament in which the island
has no representative and whose laws do not directly affect the
Isle of Man should be exclusively, prayed for, does not satis-
factorily appear.

It is only very lately that the desecration of ancient church-
yards and the treen oratories has taken place. There was a
strong feeling in their behalf, even within the present century.
A case of seeming divine retribution in one instance, where in
an act of apparent necessity a species of sacrilege was com-
mitted, is often brought forward as having occurred in the
parish of Jurby. A farmer in that parish during a violent
storm of thunder and lightning drove his sheep for shelter
into one of the old chapels, which I have noted as so frequent
on the isle, which at that time (about seventy years ago) had
the roof on it. It was afterwards observed that the farmer
lost all the lambs of that fiock in the ensuing spring, and that
many of them were bom monstrosities. The story was related
to me by a clergyman, whose grandfather was the farmer in
question. It at any rate exhibits the feeling then prevalent,
and bears out the statement of Bishop Wilson, that the Manx

APPENDIX P.

have generally hated sacrilege to such a degree that they do not
think a man can wish a greater curse to a family than in these
words : — ' Clagh ny killagh ayns comeil dty hie wooar/ May
^ stone of the church he found in the comer of thy dwelling.

P. Page 207.

The proper style and title of the hishop of this island, used
in the documents hy which he is inducted, is Bishop of Man,
qfSodor, o/Sodor and Man, and of Sodor of Man. The origin
of this title, and particularly df the term Sodor, is somewhat
curious and indicative of the various ecclesiastical changes in
the extent of the diocese at different periods.

Originally, as now, the diocese was restricted to the Isle of
Man. There is no reason to dispute the generally received
tradition that it was constituted hy St. Patrick, who in 447 left
St. Germanus first bishop.

It appears doubtful whether St. Columba, who (according
to the Saxon Chronicle) arrived inlona, a.d. 560, as Abbot of
that monastery, really exercised any episcopal jurisdiction
beyond the limits of his monastery. The animosity entertained
by the Saxon clergy against the school of lona for adhering to
the eastern doctrine and discipline instead of that of the
Lateran is well-known, and therefore their testimony in this
respect can hardly be relied on.

The Bishopric of Sodor and the Hebrides or Western Isles^
was instituted in 838 by Pope Gregory the Fourth, the name
Sodor, says Bishop Wilson, being taken from the cathedral
church inlona dedicated to our Saviour, in Greek S«r^p (Soter) ,
At the same time it is to be observed that the thirty islands
constituting this bishopric went by the name of the Sudereys,
t. e. Southern Islands, another group to the north going by the
name of Nordereys ; and we often find in the Chronicles of
Bushen, the terms Bishop of the Sudoer and Bishop of tlie
Isles convertible. And this seems the most probable deriva-
tion of the term Sodor. But in the year 1098, Magnus of

APPENDIX P. 339

Norway, having conquered not only theWestem Isles, but Man,
the bishoprics of Sodor and Man were united*, and so con-
tinued till the close of the fourteenth century, when the English
having conquered, and being in possession of the Isle of Man
on the death of John Dunkan, a.d. 1380, the clergy of lona
and the Isles elected for their bishop a person named John, and
the clergy of Man made an election of Robert Waldby for their
prelate f.

At the same time the Bishops of Man still retained their
title of Bishops of Sodor, giving the name Sodor to the little
island near Peel J, in which the cathedral of St. German
was built, and which had previously been called St. Patrick's
Isle.

Thus we see then that the term Bishop of Man is the most
ancient; and the title of Bishop of Sodor is equivalent to Bishop
of lona and the Southern Isles, Bishop of Sodor and Man the
imited diocese of the Sudereys (or Southern Isles) and Man ;
and Bishop of Sodor of Man, means Bishop of the cathedral-
church in the little islet called Sodor adjoining or belonging to
Man.

The Scotch Bishops after the separation never seem to have
adopted the term Sodor, but only "Bishop of the Isles,"
whilst the Manx Bishop seems to have retained the title on
the same principle that the kings of England retained the title
of King of France long after they ceased to be possessed of any
territory therein.

The arms of the Bishopric are Gules the Virgin Mary,

* The Archbishop of Drontheim, called Nidorensis Episcopns, was
Metropolitan, and the consecration took place at his hands.

t The Bishops of Man were then consecrated by the Archbishop of
Canterbory, though they had been in more ancient times, as now, con-
secrated by the Archbishop of York ; and the Bishops of Sodor (or of the
Isles, as they were then called) were consecrated by the Archbishop of
Glasgow.

t Thus we read in the grant made by Thomas Earl of Derby, in 1505,
to Hoan Hesketh, of *' Ecclesiam Cathedralem Sancti German! in Holm,
Sodor vel Peel yocatam, Ecclesiamque Sancti Patricii ibidem."

340 APPENDIX P.

standing on three ascents with her arms extended between two
pillars^ supporting on the dexter a church, all proper. In base
the present arms of the island surmounted with a mitre*.

It is stated in Keith's Catalogue of Scottish Bishops, that
the ancient armorial bearing of the See of Sodor and Man was.
Azure, St. Columba at sea in a cock-boat all proper in chief,
over head a blazing star or.

If these were really the arms of the united Bishoprics of
Sodor and Man, and not of Sodor alone, previous to the Union,
I should feel disposed to regard the figure in the cock-boat or
coracle as that of St. Maughold rather than St. Columba, as
it bears so close a resemblance to the legend of his arriyal upon
the island ; and he was the senior Saint and held by the Manx
in special repute.

It is evident from the insertion of the three legs in the base
of the shield, that the arms now in use were not assumed till
after the Scottish Conquest ; and it is interesting to trace their
connection through the Abbey of Rushen with the Abbey of
Fumess, whose patron was St. Mary, and which abbey claimed
a right, according to a grant from the Bishop of Romef, to
appoint to the Bishopric of Man. In this light they must be
regarded as a tacit acknowledgement of that right, and of sub-
mission to the authority of the Pope.

Now the first Bishop of Sodor and Man, who seems more
directly connected with the Papal See, was Richard, conse*
crated a.d. 1252 at Rome by the Archbishop of Drontheim :
this was that Richard, who, with the presence and assistance
of Magnus, the last king of the race of Goddard Crovan, con-
secrated the Abbey Church of St. Mary of Rushen in 1257.
He died in 1274, i.e. four years after the Scottish Conquest,
and was buried in the Abbey of Fumess. The introduction

* See Title-page.

t A bull of Pope Celestine to Furness Abbey runs thus : — " In eligendo
Episcopum Insularum, libertatem, quam reges earum bonse memoriae Olavus
;et Godredus filius ejus monasterio yestro contuleruntt sicut in authentids
eorum continetur, auctoritate vobis Apostolic^ confirmamus. Dat. Rome
10 Cal. Julii, Pontificatus Nostri 4.'' See Ward's Ancient Records, page 31.

APPENDIX P. 841

therefore of the arms of the See now in use, may with much
probability be attributed to him.

The following account of the succession of Bishops of the
Isle of Man, is given in great part in the words of Sacheverell,
with some emendations and additions by Bishop Hildesley*,
Sacheverell seems in great part to have followed the unpublished
manuscript in possession of the present Clerk of the Rolls,
M. Quayle, Esq., unless both copied from some other common
source ; all have derived the substance of the Catalogue from
the 'Chronicon Mannise,' in which the monks of Rushen
Abbey have handed down a list of the Bishops who filled the
See of Man from the days of Goddard Crovan, a.d. 1056, till
the episcopacy of John Dunkan, a.d. 1378, the last bishop
before the island passed into the hands of the Stanley family.

There is no distinct evidence of Christianity having made
any progress in the Isle of Man till the middle of the fifth
century. Hector Boetius has made a statement which has
been followed by Bishop Spotswood and Buchanan, that
" Cratilinth the Scottish king, a.d. 277/ was very earnest in
the overthrow of Druidism in the Isle of Man and elsewhere ;
and upon the occasion of Dioclesian's persecution, when many
Christians fled to him for refuge, he gave them the Isle of
Man for their residence, and erected there for them a stately
temple, which he called Sodorense Fanum. And herein Am-
phibabus a Briton sat first Bishop." The story has however
been rejected by most authors of good repute, and put on the
same footing as that of Capgrave in his life of Joseph of
Arimathea, respecting Mordraius the Manx king, said to have
been converted to Christianity. Sacheverell justly observes
that it is also almost impossible that the Manx nation should
preserve no memory of so considerable a blessing ss their first
conversion to Christianity, but their tradition is directly against
this story.

The mission of St. Patrick and his twenty coadjutors to
Ireland, for the suppression of the Pelagian heresy, a.d. 434,

* Bishop Wilson's account is also an abstract from Sacbeverell.

342 APPENDIX P.

is well known. He returned into Britain for the purpose of
obtaining more help, and in company with thirty religious
persons, whilst making a second voyage to Ireland, was driyen
by a storm to the Isle of Man, a.d. 444. Here finding the
people much given to magic, under the influence of Mananan-
beg-Mac-y-Lheir, he stayed three years, and was instrumental
in their conversion to the pure Christian faith. To rule over
this infant church* he left

GERMANUS, a.d. 447> a holy and prudent man, one of his
own disciples, and a canon of the Lateran, who so settled
the matter of religion that the island never afterwards
relapsedf. St. German, in honour of whom is dedicated
the cathedral church of Man, dying in the lifetime of St.
Patrick, that Apostle of the Manx Church consecrated
successively
CONINDRIUS, of whom nothing is known but his name, and
ROMULUS, during whose episcopacy

ST. MAUGHOLD, a.d. 498, arrived in the island, bemg cast
ashore in his Uttle leathern boat at the head which now
bears his name. He was chosen Bishop by the universal
consent of the Manx Church. This is said to have been
five years after the death of St. Patrick, t. e. in 498. How
long he sat Bishop is uncertain, though Dr. Heylin says
he was Bishop in 578 1.

The successor of St. Maughold is said by tradition to
have been
ST. LOMANUS, son of Tigrida, and nephew to St. Patrick ;
in honour of him the parish church of Kirk Lonan is
dedicated ; but his date is uncertain, as are those of his
successors, whom Manx tradition puts down under the
names of

* '* Ad regendam et enidieDdum populum in fide Christian^." Jocelinus
in Vita Patricii, ap. Usher's Annals. f Jh\d.

X This seems very improbable, aod I am inclined to read this as a mis-
print for 518, the date of his death as given in Keith's Catalogue of Scottish
Bishops. This will nearly coincide with the statement of Sacheverell,
that h^ probably sat Bishop for more than twenty-four years.

APPENDIX P. 343

ST. CONAGffAN, and after him

ST. MAROWN, another patron of one of the insular churches.
It is known however that in a.d. 600

CONANUS, A.D. 600, tutor to the three sons of the fourth
king of Scotland, was sitting hishop. He died January
26th, A.D. 648, and was succeeded by Rantantus, called
also

CONTENTUS, a.d. 648, whose successors at unknown dates
are stated to have been*

BALDUS, of whom we have only the name, as also of

MALCHUS ; nor have we any recorded succession till the
eleventh century t. All that the monks of Rushen have
been pleased to tell us of the intervening period is, that
" there was doubtless a true succession," and that the
Church flourished under the care of their bishops, suc-
cessors to St. Patrick. It is not at all improbable, that
during the period in which the authority of the Welsh
princes^ was acknowledged in the Isle of Man, there
might be a close connection between the Manx Church
and the rehc of. the ancient British Church in Wales,
which did not till a very late period acknowledge the
authority of Rome, and hence the silence of the Rushen
Chroniclers §.

ST. BRANDON, a.d. 1025. In the eleventh century, St.
Brandon, or Brandinus, or Brandanus, in honour of whom

* Appendix to Memoirs of Bishop Hildesley, page 288.

t Torkinus or Torkins is inserted in the list of Bishops of Man, a.d. 880
hy Bishop Hildesley and Mr. Train. The Tery circumstance however
which is stated hy them that he was Bishop of Sodor, contradicts his being
Bishop of Man, as the Sees were not united till 200 years after his
episcopate.

t See page 259, aupra,

$ Whether the Archbishop of Armagh (as successor •f St. Patrick) was
acknowledged as Metropolitan is uncertain. It is not however improbable,
for the See of York was not constituted under Paulinus till near the middle of
the seventh century, and the first consecration we hear of by the Archbishop
of York of a Bishop for the Isle of Man, was that of Wimund for the united
dioceses of Sodor and Man, in the beginning of the twelfth century.

344 APPBNDIX P*

the parish church of Braddan is dedicated^ is stated to have
heen Bishop of Man, and he has heen placed* as successor
to Boolwer and WiUiam, who were Bishops in the same
century ; yet it seems unlikely, had he succeeded them, that
the ' Chronicon Manniae/ which mentions these two, would
have omitted him. The Chronicle hegins the list thus : —
" These are the bishops which filled the episcopal see of
Man since the time of Groddard Crownan, a.d. 1077, and
a few years before." A short time before the reign of
Goddard Crownan, or Croyan,

ROOLWEB, A.D. 1050, was consecrated bishop. He is in-
terred in the church of St. Maughold. Next

WILLIAM, A.D. 1 065. After whom, according to Johnstone,
in the * Celto-NormanicsB,' there was one

AUMOND M'OLAVE, a.d. 1077, who was bishop at the
time of the Norwegian Conquest. After him came

WYMUND, A.D. 1100, otherwise named Hamund, or Rey-
mund, and by some Vermundus, of whom Matthew Paris f
says, " Post conquestum Norwegorum a.d. 1098, binse
sedes Sodor et Man in unum coaluerunt et primus epi-
scopus fiiit Wymundus sive Wermundus." He was son
of Jole, a Manxman. He was consecrated by Thomas
Turstan, Archbishop of York, and seems to have been the
first Bishop of Man who was a suffiragan of that province.
He had been a monk of the Abbey of Fumess, but after
his elevation to the Bishoprick of Sodor and Man, he
married J a daughter of Somerled Thane of Argyle, and
becoming obnoxious on account of his overbearing con-
duct, he was expelled the island, and his eyes were put
out. Matthew Paris says that he died in 1151, and was
succeeded by

JOHN, A.D. 1151, a monk of Sais, in Normandy, who was
buried in St. Grerman's. After him

* Appendix to Memoirs of Bishop Hildesley, page 288.

t Hist. Angl. p. 85.

X Hailes' Annals of Scotland, vol. i. p. 87, quoted by Mr. Train.

APFBNDIX P. 345

GAMALIEL, a.d. 1154, an Englishman, was consecrated by
Boger Archbisliop of York in 1154. He died in 1181,
and was buried a€ Peterborough. His successor was

REGINALD, a.d. 1181,'a Norwegian ; to him the thirds of
all the livings in the island were granted by the clergy,
that from thenceforward they might be freed from all
episcopal exactions. It is probable that he was the firsl^
bishop that was consecrated by the Archbishop of Dron-^
theim, in Norway. His successor was one

CHRISTIAN, A.D. 1190, a native of the Orkneys, who Ues
buried in the monastery of Bangor, in Ireland ; to him
succeeded

MICHAEL, A.D. 1195, a Manxman, a person of great merit
and exemplary Ufe. He died in a good old age, and was
honourably buried " apud Fontanas." To him succeeded

NICHOLAS DE MELSA, a.d. 1203, Abbot of Fumess.
He hes buried in the Abbey of Bangor. After him

REGINALD, a.d. 1216, a person of royal extraction, sister's
son to goodKingOlave, was consecrated bishop, and though
he laboured under great infirmities of body, yet he go-
verned his church with prudence and resolution ; at last,
with an exemplary resignation, he yielded lip his soul into
the hands of his Creator. He lies buried in the Abbey of
Rushen, and was succeeded by

JOHN, the son of Harfare, a.d. 1226, who by the negligence
of his servants was burnt, " apud Jerevas in Anglia," i. e,
Jervaux Abbey, Yorkshire. After him, one

SIMON, A.D. 1230, a person of great discretion, and learned
in the Holy Scriptures, governed the Church with pru-
dence and piety. He held a synod in the year 1239, in
which thirteen canons* were enacted, most of them relatmg
to the probate of wills, the clergy's dues, and other infe-

* See Dugdale's Monasticon Anglicanum, vol. i. p. 711, and Ward's
Ancient Kecords, p. 127.

Q 5

846 APPENDIX P.

rior matters. He died at his palace of Kirk Michael in
a good old age, and lies buried in the cathedral dedicated
to St. German, in Peel Castle. After him

LAWRENCE, a.d. 1247, the Archdeacon, was elected Bishop,
and after great disputes, consecrated by the Archbishop
of Drontheim, but was unfortunately drowned with Harold
king of Man, his queen, and almost all the nobiUty of the
Isles ; so that the Bishopric continued vacant almost
six years, — when

RICHARD, A.D. 1252, an Englishman, was consecrated at
Rome by the Archbishop of Drontheim. This bishop
consecrated the Abbey Church of St. Mary of Rushen,
anno 1257. After he had governed the Church twenty-
three years, returning from a general council, anno 1274,
he died " apud Langallyner in Copelandia," and lieth
buried in the Abbey of Fumess. In his time the Scotch
conquered the island. He was succeeded by

MARKUS GALVADIENSIS, a.d. 1275, commonly written
Gallovedinus, at the nomination of Alexander king of
Scotland ; for which reason it is supposed he was banished
by the Manxmen ; during his absence the island lay under
an interdict, but at last being recalled, he laid a Smoke
Penny upon every house by way of commutation. He
held a synod at Kirk Braddan, in which thirty-five canons
were enacted * . He lived to a great age, and was for many
years blind, and Hes buried in St. German's Church, in
Peel Castle, and was succeeded by

ON ANUS t, a.d. 1298, of whom only the name is recorded.

MAURITIUS?, a.d. 1303, who was sent prisoner to London
by King Edward I., therefore supposed never to be con-

* " Constitutiones Synodales Soderensis Ecdesie in Synodo ordinats
et statutse in Ecclesi& Sancti Bradani in Manni& sexto idiU Martii, a.d.
1291."— Ward's Ancient Records, p. 129.

t Onanus or Inanus, given in Mr. Quayle's MS. from Spotswood,
Scottish Church, Book II. p. 116.

APPENDIX P. 347

secrated nor put into the catalogue of bishops. In his
room was substituted

ALLEN*, A.D. 1305, of Galloway, who governed the Church
with honour and integrity. He died the 1 5th of February,
anno 1321, and lies at Rothersay, in Scotland. To him
succeeded

GILBERT, A.D. 1321, of Galloway, who sat but two years and a
half, and lies buried near his predecessor, in the church of
Rothersay aforesaid. And after him

BERNARD, a.d. 1323, a Scotchman, held the bishopric
thirteen years, and lies buried in the monastery of Kil-
wining, or Arbroath, in Scotland, and was succeeded by

THOMAS, A.D. 1334, a Scot, who sat bishop fourteen years :
he was the first that exacted twenty shiUings of his clergy
by way of procuration, as Ukewise the tenths of all aliens.
He died the 20th of September 1348. The same year

WILLIAM RUSSELL, A.D. 1348, Abbot ofRushen, was elected
by the whole clergy of Man, in St. German's Church, in
Peel Castle. He was consecrated by Pope Clement VI.
at Avignon, and was the first that shook off the yoke of
the Archbishop of Drontheim, by whom his predecessors
had for many ages been consecrated. He held a synod,
anno 1350, in Kirk Michael, in which five articles were
added to the former canons. He died the 21st of April
1374, and was buried in the Abbey of Fumess : he was
Abbot of Rushen eighteen years, and Bishop twenty-six
years ; and after him

JOHN DUNKANf, a.d. 1374, a Manxman, waa elected by
the clergy of Man, and going to Avignon was confirmed
by Pope Gregory XI., and consecrated " per Cardinalem

* In the ancient Rolls of Scotland occurs this note : — " Allan of Wigh-
town holds letters of presentation to the Church of St. Carber, in Man."
This presentation to the living of Kirk Gairbre, or Arbory, took place in
1295. See Train's History, vol. i. p. 339.

t John Dankan is the last bishop mentioned in the * Chronicou Mannise.'
The narrative tells us that on his installation in St. German's in 1376, " he
received many great offerings"

348 APPENDIX P.

Prenestinum, dadum Archiqpiscopum :" in his return home
he was made prisoner at Boloma, in Picardy, and lay in
irons two years, and at last was forced to ransom himself
for 500 marks ; so that he was not installed till the year
1376. On his death the two sees were divided; the
clergy of lona electing a bishop for the western Isles
named John, and the clergy of Man electing

ROBERT WELBY, or WALDBY, a.d. 1380, who, it is be-
lieved, sat twenty-two years, and is said to have been
translated to the see of Dublin*. He had for his suc-
cessor, according to Sacheverell,

JOHN SPROTTON, a.d. 1402, the first Bishop mentioned
in the insular records. It is uncertain how long he sat
Bishop, but in the Statute Book of the Isle of Manf, we
find under date of 1430« mention made of a visitation the
year before, held by

RICHARD PULLEY, a.d. 1429, of whom we have only the
name. The next to him appears to have been

JOHN GREENJ, a.d. 1448, Vicar of Dunchurch in Warwick-
shire, who continued to hold his English preferment with
his bishopric. He died in 1452, and was succeeded by

THOMAS BURTON, ad 1452, who held the see twenty-
eight years, and died in possession in 1480. After him

RICHARD OLDHAM, a.d. 1481, Abbot of Chester, who
died September 19th, 1486, and was buried in the Abbey

HUAN, HUGH, or EVAN HESKETH, a.d. 1487, succeeded
him. In his time Thomas Stanley, King of Man and
Earl of Derby, in a deed preserved by Dugdale§, dated
March 28th, 1505, confirmed to him and his successors
all the lands and possessions of his bishopric. He died
in 1510, and was buried in his cathedral of St. German
at Peel.

* Keith's Catalog:ue of Scottish Bishops, p. 304.
t Miles's Statute Laws of the Isle of Man, p. 13.
t Appendix to Memoirs of Hildesley, p. 293.
( Monasticon Anglicanum, vol. i. p. 7.

^■ii^p

APPENDIX P. 849

Whether the Bishopric was immediately filled up is
tincertaiii. But it appears hy an indenture in the Lex
Scripta of the Isle of Man, that one

JOHN, A.D. 1510 ?, was Bishop in 1532*. And we also learn
that in the year 1542,

THOMAS STANLEY, son of Sir Edward Stanley, first Lord
Monteagle, was holding the Bishopric : in his time the
statute of 33 Henry VIII. was passed, dissevering the Isle
of Man from Canterhury, and annexing it to York ; and
Bishop Stanley, not complying with these arbitrary mea-
sures of Henry, was deprived in 1545, and in his room
was appointed

ROBERT FERRAR, or FERRIER, a.d. 1545, translated to
St. David's in 1546f . He had been chaplain to Arch-
bishop Cranmer in 1533. He was imprisoned during the
reign of Edward YL, for his Lutheran opinions, and
on Mary's accession to the Crown, he was condemned as a
heretic, degraded, and burnt at the Market Cross, Caer-
marthen, March 30th, 1555.

HENRY MANN, a.d. 1546, D.D. of Oxford, and Dean of
Chester, had the royal assent to his election to the See
of Sodor and Man, January 22nd, 1546. He continued
to hold the See in the reign of Mary, anddied in quiet
possession, October 10th, 1556, and was buried in
St. Andrew's Undershaft Church, in London. On his
death,

THOMAS STANLEY^ a.d. 1556, was restored^ ; nor was he
again deprived on the accession of Elizabeth, but continued
quietly to exercise his episcopal functions till his death in
1568§. He was also appointed Governor of the island

* Ward's Ancient Records, p. 88.

t Stated in Burnet to have been consecrated in 1548.

t " Thus it appears that the See of Sodor and Man has never lost the
regular succession of its Bishops, being the only diocese in the British
Church of which that can be said." — ^Ward's Ancient Records, p. 89.

§ There is on the Isle of Man no record whatever of the period of the
Reformation.

350 APPBNDi;c p.

in 1556. Wood says that he paid his last deht to nature
in the latter end of the year 1570. This is not unlikely,
as it appears that his successor,

JOHN SALISBURY, Dean of Norwich and ChanceUor of
Lincoln, and Archdeacon of Anglesea, was consecrated in
1571. He had a share in translating the Bihle into
Welsh. He died in 1573, and was huried in Norwich
Cathedral. After the not unusual custom of Elizabeth,
the See was kept vacant three years, when

JOHN MERRICK, a.d. 1577, was sworn Bishop of the Isle.
He gaye Camden the History of the Isle of Man, pub-
Ushed in his * Britannia.' He died in 1599, and was im-
mediately succeeded by

GEORGE LLOYD, a.d. 1600, Rector of HeswaU, Cheshire,
who was afterwards, January I4th, 1604, translated to
the See of Chester, and in his room

JOHN PHILLIPS, D.D., a.d. 1605, Dean of Cleveland and
Rector of Hawarden, Flintshire, succeeded. He was a
native of North Wales, and is said to have translated the
Bible and Prayer Book into Manx : the latter was extant
in the days of Sacheverell. He was famous for his great
pains in preaching, his charity and hospitality. He died
August 7th, 1633, and was buried in St. German's Ca-
thedral. After him

WILLIAM FORSTER, D.D.*, a.d. 1633, Fellow of Catherine
College, Cambridge, and Prebendary of Chester. He held
a court at Douglas, October 1634, and died in the begin-
ning of 1635.

RICHARD PARR, D.D., a.d. 1635, a Lancashire man, some
time Fellow of Brazennose College in Oxford, who, whilst
he continued in the University (says Mr. Challoner of his
own knowledge), was an eminent preacher. He was the
last who sat Bishop before the civil wars. He died in
1643. The See having been vacant seventeen years,

* Sacheverell (who hiis been followed in this by Bishop Wilson) has
placed his name inadvertently before John Phillips.

APPENDIX P. 35 I

SAMUEL RUTTER*, a.d. 1661, was sworn Bishop. He had
been Archdeacon several years, and governed the Church
with great prudence during the civil wars : he was a man
of exemplary goodness and moderation, and sat Bishop
till the year 1663; "to his assistance," says Seacome,
'' I am greatly obhged for his collections and memoirs
made use of in my present history of the noble house of
Stanley, but especially in that ever-memorable siege of
Lathom ; the defence whereof he had a large share in."
After him

ISAAC BARROW, D.D., a.d. 1663, was consecrated Bishop,
and sent over Governor by Charles Earl of Derby. He
was a man of a pubtic spirit, and great designs for the
good of the Church ; to his industry is greatly owing
all the learning amongst the clergy of Man, and to his
prudence and charity many of the poor clergy owe the
bread they eat. This good man, to the great loss of the
island, was removed to St. Asaph, and was succeeded by

HENRY BRIDGEMAN, D.D., a.d. 1671. And after
him

JOHN LAKE, A.D. 1682, afterwards removed, a.d. 1684, to
Bristol. He was again translated to Chichester, 1685.
On the 8th of June 1688, this prelate, with Sancroft,
Lloyd, Ken, Turner, White and Trelawney, was com-
mitted to the Tower by James II. for petitioning him
against the publication of his ' Declaration for Liberty of
Consciencef.' He died 1689.

BAPTIST LEVINZ, D.D., a.d. 1684, who died 1693; and
was succeeded by

* The author of Mr. Quayle's MS., writing at the close of the Great
Rebellion, says, " At my being in the Island, in place of the Bishop (sede
vacante), the Church was goTerned by Mr. Butter, the then Archdeacon of
Man. A man more meriting to have succeeded than to have supplied the
Bishop's place and office."

t See Bishop Short's History of the Church of England, p. 566.

352 APPENDIX P.

THOMAS WILSON, D.D., a.d. 1697-98, who died in 1755.
His praise is in all the Church.

MARK HILDESL£Y, D.D., a.d. 1 755. Under his auspices
the Manx version of the Bible was consummated. He
received the last portion of it on Saturday, November
28th, 1 772, and on the Monday following was seized witli
the palsy, and died on the 7th of the ensuing month.

RICHARD RICHMOND, D.D., a.d. 1773, was consecrated
as successor, and died in London, February 4th, 1780.

GEORGE MASON, a.d. 1780, was the next Bishop, but
only held the Bishopric three years. He died in 1783.
His successor was

CLAUDIUS CREGAN, D.D., consecrated February 20th,
1784. He was nominated by the Dowager Duchess of
Athol during the minority of her son. On his death the
appointment of his successor was kept open till the

Hon. GEORGE MURRAY, a.d. 1813, second son of Lord
George Murray, Bishop of St. David's, and nephew to John
the fourth Duke of Athol, was of age for consecration.
The consecration took place in April 1813. In the year
1827 he was translated to Rochester, and

WILLIAM WARD, D.D., a.d. 1827, Rector of Great
Hawksley, Essex, succeeded. In his episcopate was
passed the Act for uniting this See with CarUsle. Through
the great exertion of the Bishop, seconded by his clergy
and the leading members of the laity of the Church, to-
gether with the strong remonstrance of the Bishops of
the English Church, this scheme was ultimately set aside.
Bishop Ward was the means of adding largely to the
church accommodation of the island*, and he very greatly
promoted the erection of King William's College. He
died at Great Hawksley, in Essex, January 26th, 1838.

* He succeeded in raising £8000 for this purpose 5n England, and
nearly £4000 in the island. Out of this sum eight new churches were
erected, and others enlarged.

APPENDIX P. 853

To him succeeded, as tlie first nominee of the British
Cjrown,

JAMES BOWSTEAD, a.d. 1838, late Tutor of Corpus Christi
College, and Rector of Bettenden, Essex. He was cre-
ated D.D. by Eoyal mandate*. During the short period
of his episcopacy on the island he estabUshed the Dioce-
san Society. On his translation to the See of Lichfield,
1840,

HENRY PEPYS, D.D., a.d. 1840, brother to Lord Chan-
cellor Cottenham, succeededf, but in the year following
was translated to Worcester. His successor was

THOMAS VOWLER SHORT, D.D., a.d. 1841, Rector of
St. George's, Bloomsbury, and formerly Tutor of Christ's
Church, Oxford J. At the close of 1846 he was trans-
lated to St. Asaph. The successor of Bishop Short in the^
See of Sodor and Man, was the

Ven. WALTER AUGUSTUS SHIRLEY, D.D., a.d. 1847,
Archdeacon of Derby, who was installed at Castletown,
February 1st, 1847. He had been appointed Bampton
Lecturer for that year, and entered upon the first portion
of his course in the Lent Term. He returned to Bishop's
Court in the Easter vacation, where he was soon after
seized by an attack of bronchitis, and on the 21st of April
he expired, after an episcopate of only three months. His
successor, the present Bishop, is the

Hon. ROBERT EDEN, D.D., a.d. 1847, youngest son of
William first Lord Auckland, and brother to George
present Earl of Auckland, late Governor-General of India,
and now First Lord of the Admiralty. His Lordship,
who previous to his appointment to the Bishopric of Sodor
and Man had been Fellow of Magdalen College, Cambridge,
Chaplain to the Queen and Vicar of Battersea, Surrey, is

* His installation took place in St. Mary's Chapel, Castletown, Sep.
tember 5th, 1838.

t Installed at Castletown, May 8th, 1840.
X Installed at Castletown, July 25th, 1841.

854 APPENDIX Q.

heir-presamptive to the barony of Auckland. His Lord-
ship was installed at Castletown, June 29th, 1847.

The Bishop of Sodor and Man is the highest member in the
Lower House of the English Convocation. He has a seat in
the House of Lords, within the bar, apart fi^om the other
Bishops, but no vote*. As the Bishop now, since the pur-
chase of the Isle, no longer holds his barony from a subject,
but directly from the Crown, it would appear that if the Sove-
reign should choose, he might be summoned to the House of
Lords, unless the circumstance of his having a seat in an inde-
pendent legislature within the dominions of Great Britain
should seem to preclude him.

Q. Page 242.

The following list of 222 species of the Carboniferous lime-
stone fossils of the southern basin of the Isle of Man, is given
from specimens in my own cabinet. By more diligent search
the number would probably be largely increased. There is a
small collection of Manx limestone fossils in the Museum of
the Geological Society of London, of which no separate cata-
logue has been published. We have a notice of 14 species
only as from the Isle of Man, in Phillips' 'Geology of Yorkshire,'
and a few more are given in Sowerby's ' Mineral Conchology.*
The present addition will therefore be useful, both as an addi-
tion to the British localities of the different fossils, and also as
indicative of the different changes in the character of the marine
fauna in the neighbourhood of the Isle of Man, at different
periods of the carboniferous Hmestone formation.

* In Crutweirs Life of Bishop Wilson, 4to» p. zxxiv. there is the fol-
lowing note : —

** If the island, as in case of treason, should become forfeit to the
Crown, the Bishop, holding his barony from the Sovereign, would then
have a vote as well as a seat. This information is from a gentleman on
the authority of the present Earl of Abingdon's grandfather, who said that
the Bishop of Man had a seat there de mo jure,**

APPENDIX Q.

355

For the naming of the Cephalopoda in the subjoined list,
I am chiefly indebted to the kindness of Count Keyserling, for
the Corals to Professor Ansted, and for the Brachiopoda to the
late Mr. Gilbertson. Having submitted to the Ust-named
gentleman a series of specimens taken from the lower lime-
stone deposit, he noted that he did not generally recognise the
forms to which he had been accustomed in the moimtain
limestone of Yorkshire and Derbyshire. In the Ust will be
found a few identifications with foreign specimens, given by
Professor De Koninck in his work on the Carboniferous fossils
of Belgium. I have also ventured to add a few provisional
names for some fossils for which I could obtain no identifi-
cation.

Plantjs.

Adiantum

Pecopteris

Sphenopteris nervosa, Brongn.
Lepidostrobus omatus,£ro«i^.
Calamites

ZOOPHTTA.

Amplexus coralloides. Sow. ...

spinotiaSy DeKon,

Cyathophyllom basaltifoime,

var., PhUL

i^ngiteSy De Kon. ,

Calamopora inflata ?, De Kon,,

Caunopora ramosa, PhiU,

Caninia gigantea, MicheUn ...
Favosites csetetes, PhiU

scabra, Rafinesqvte

Gotblandica, PAiff.

Gorgonia fastuosa, DeKon. ..

laxa,PAt7/.

polyporata, PAt/2.

— • retiformis, Schloth

ripisteria, Goidf,

striata met, n.8

tortuosa mei, n.s

tenuifila, PAttf. ,

Heteropora, species unknown

'1,1

Glauconome pIumns,var.,PAtff.
Lithodendron cna^um, DeKon,

— fasciculatum, Fiem

Michelinia favosa, Gol^f-

Postulopora oculata, Milne

Edwards

Syringopora ramnlosa, Goleff'

EcBINODISaMATA.

Platy crinus gigas, PhiU, ',

f unknown species

Poteriocrinus crassus, Martin
Egertoni, PAtT/.

Annelida.
Traces in shale beds .

Crustacea.

Cythere Phillipsiana

Cyprtdina ovaUs mei

Phillipsia gemmulifera, PhiU,

granuUfera, PhiU

Kellii, Por//

— omata, Portl,

— raniceps, PhiU.

— seminifera, PAt^.

— truncatula, PhiU,

— unknown species

856

*
*

*
*
*

IPl

*
*

*
*
*

*
*

*
*
*

*
*

*
*
*

*
*

rDIX Q.

Productns condnnns, Sow, ...
costatus, Sow

COKCHIPBRA DllfTAKTA.

Cardinia abbreviata, De Ktm. . .

g:iganteas, Sow

*
*
*
*

*
*

tclUnaria, Gotdf,

hemisphericus, Sow. ...

Cardimorphia oblonga, Kon....
Cypricardia striatola-mellosa,

latissimus. Sow

Cuculbea anruta. Phiil

Nucola claviformia

Pinna flabelliformis, Martin...

Pleurorbynchus aliforoiis,
PhiU.

1 rarispinus, De Kon

1 scabriculus, Sow

SanguinoUria arcuata, PhiU,..

— — spinosus, <Soir

sulcata, PhiU,

Solcmya primaeva, PhiU,

Solen siliquoides, DeKon,

Spirifer attenuatas, Sow

CoNCniFBRA MONOMTARIA.

convolutus, PhiU.

Avicula Dumontiana?, J)eKon,

connivens, PAttt

^— cycloptera, PhiU,

cuspidatos, Sow

tessellata, 2)« JTon ...

decorus, Sow

Inoceramus vetustus, Sow

Posidonia Becberi, PhiU.

duplicicostus, PhUL

bisulcatus. Sow

lateralis, PhiU,

- -■ gracillima mei

globularis, PhiU,

Pecten arenosus, PhiU.

integricostatus,PAftf....

hemisphaericus, PhiU,...

recur vatus, I>e JTon

rotundatus, var., Sow,..,

rhomboidens, PAi//

semicircularis, PhiU. ....

senilis, PAitf

fimbriatus, PhiU,

Brachiopoda.

Leptsna corrugata mei

■ depressa, Dalm

papilionacea, PhiU,

Terebratula acuminata, Sow...
ambigua, PhiU,

et De VemeuU

Ortbis crenistria

Sharpei, Morris

— — mesogona, PhiU.

pleurodon, PhiU.

Buch

DUirnus. Sow

Productus antiquatus, 5ot<r. ...

comoides, Sow

APPENDIX Q.

357

Gasteropoda.
Buccinum acutum, Sow. ...

imbricatum, Sow, ...

Cirrus rotondatus, Sow

tabalatus, PkilL

Chemnitzia Lefebvrei, DeKon.
curvilineuiD .>, De Kon. . .

eloDgata, De Kon

r ugifera, De Kon.

Euomphalos carbonarius ...

catillus, Sow

pentangulatus, Sow. .

pugilis, Phill.

Murcbisonia, unknown species

Humboldtiana, /)e JTon.

Natica ampliata, Phill.

elliptica, Phill.

elongata, Phill.

lirata, Phill.

neritoides, Phill.

Patella pileus, Phill.

mucronata

Pileopsis angustus, PAtV/.

extensus i»«, n.s

Pleurotomaria acuta, Phill. ...

concentrica, PAt//. ...

conica ?, Phill.

coronata m^', n.s. ..

catenata, De ^071

expansa, Phill

gemmulifera, PhiU..,,

glabrata, Phill. ,

linealis meit n.s ,

naticoides, DeKon....

ovoidea, Phill.

sulcatula, PAtV/.

Solarium radians, De Kon.
Trochus biserratns, PhilLjyzT.

Heteropoda.
Bellerophon apertus, Sow..

cornu arietis, /Sou;. ..

hiulcus, Sow ,

tenuifasda, Sow ,

• Woodwardii, PAiW....

Cephalopoda.
Cressis primaeva ?, Forbes
calamus mei, n.s ,

Cyrtoceras unguis, Phill. ..

— obliquatum, Phill. ..

— Poolvashii wet, n.s...

— rngosnm, Fleming

— tessellatum mei, n.s.
Goniatites crenistria, Phill... .

— evolutus, Phill.

— Henslowi, Phill.

— implicatus, PAtY/

— intercostalis, Phill. ....

— micronotus, Phill. ....

— obtusus, Phill.

— reticulatus, Phill.

— spharicus, Phill.

— striolatus, Phill.

— truncatus, Phill.

Gyroceras serratum, DeKon.
Nautilus biangulatus, Sow. .

— bistrialis, PhiU

— complanatus, Sow

cyclostomus, Phill.

— ingens, Phill.

— oxystomus, Phill ,

— subsulcatus, Phill.

— sulcatus, Phill

— pinguis, DeKon

Orthoceras calamus, De Kon...

— cinctum, Sow

— caetetes met, n.s ,

— dentaloideum, Phill. ....

— distans, 5(n0

— dilatatum, DeKon

— filiferum, Phill.

— fusiforme. Sow

— Gesneri, Mart

— giganteum, Sow

— laterale, Phill.

— Martineanum, 2)« Aon.

— Muensterianum, i^eiTon.

— ovale, PAiT/.

pyriforme, 5011^

prolongaturo meif n.8. ...

Pisces.
Helodus ladyissimuSt Jgass, ...

plAnns, Agass

Psammodus porosus ,

— rugosus?, Jgagg, ,

'Si

358

APPENDIX Q.

The following analysis of the above list for each of the de-
posits is interesting : —

Plant®

Zoophyta

Echinodermata

AnnelidsB

Crustacea

Conchifera Dimyaria ...
Conchifera Monomyaria

Brachiopoda

Gasteropoda

Heteropoda

Cephalopoda

Pisces

Totalnumber in each deposit... 76 153 39

5
2

1
1

3
4
4

18
1

In order to show a reason for the separation which I have
made of the Carboniferous Hmestone series of the Isle of Man
into the three divisions of — 1st, Lower limestone ; 2nd, Pool-
vash limestone ; Srd* Posidondan schist, it will be sufficient
to call attention to the following facts, as seen in the above
table, viz. that —

Of the 222 species named and located in it we have only
30 common to 1st and 2nd.
8 — 1st and 3rd.
11 — 2nd and 3rd.
3 — Ist, 2nd and 3rd.

Again, of the 76 species occurring in the 1st, 40, or more
than 50 per cent., are found in it only.

Of the 153 species occurring in the 2nd, 117, or 76 per
cent., are found in it only.

Of the 39 species found in the 3rd, 20, or just 50 per cent.,
belong to it alone.

The fossils characteristic of the lower limestone series seem
to be " Orthis Sharpei" " Productus hemispJuBricuSy' " Cau-
nopora ramosa,*' Favosites ccetetes, and the larger variety of

APPENDIX R. 859

the Cyathophyllum fungites. The locaHties for ohtaining them
are the Httle creek of Bonaldsway, Strandhall to the westward
of Poolvash, and Port St. Mary. At Scarlet, near the lime-
kihis, the specimens of Ammonites Henslouni and Nautilus
complanatus, which are in the Woodwardian Museum, Cam-
hridge, were ohtained. I am not aware that the latter fossil
has elsewhere been found. There are many examples of it on
the surface of a bed of limestone at Scarlet, but extremely dif-
ficult of extraction. Of the Ammonites Henslowii, which is a
rare and beautiful fossil, I have found three examples.

The upper or Poolvash limestone fossils are found in great
abundance about a quarter of a mile westward of the mouth of
the streamlet from Balladoole. The characteristic fossils are
Orthis resupinatUy Terebratula excavata, Froductus striatums
(anomalus), and Goniatites crenistria, all very abundant.

The Posidonian schist is found at the mouth of the Balla-
doole streamlet. A Kttle to the eastward, just at high-water
mark, fossils occur in it as a sulphuret of iron; these are
chiefly Goniatites and Orthocerata, not found in any other lo-
cality. The Posidonia is a plentiful and characteristic fossil
in all the black schistose beds. The ferns and Favosites Goth'
landica may be met with in a hollow near three dykes, about
300 yards westward of the Balladoole stream.

R. Page 246.

The following Ust of forty fossil species from the Pleistocene
marine formation of the Isle of Man, collected by myself, and
named by Professor E. Forbes, has already in part appeared in
my memoir in the Quarterly Journal of the Geological Society,
vol. ii. p. 346 ; it contains however several interesting additions
made since the pubUcation of my memoir. The fullest account
of Pleistocene fossils hitherto published will be found in the
valuable memoir of Professor E. Forbes on the geological rela-
tions of the existing fauna and flora of the British Isles, which

360

APPENDIX S.

fonns a portion of the first Tolume of the ' Memoirs of he
Geological Survey of Great Britain.'

Mammalia.

The rib of a cetacean, species unknown, found in the drift at Douglas.

MOLLUSCA.

Order PalUobranehiaia.

Mactra solida.
Corbula nucleus.
Tellina solidula.
Astarte borealis.

elliptica ; the giarensis of Mr.

Nicol.
■■ damnoniensis.

compressa.

pisiformis.

Cyprina islandica.
Artemis exoleta.
Venus casina.

gallina.

Cardium edule.

— Isevigatum.
Pectunculus pilosus.
Pullustra decussata.

Leda minuta ; the Nucula rostrata
of Sowerby.

rostrata; the Nucula oblonga

of Brown.

GA8TBB.0P0DA.

Dentalium entale.
Patella viilgata.
Littorina littorea.
Turritella terebra.
Murex erinaceus.
Fusus Bamffius.

scalariformis.

Forbesi; distinct from the

Fusus cinereus of Say.

antiquus.

Pleurotoma turricula.
— ^ laevigata.
Buccinum undatum.

(ciliatum ?).

Purpura lapillus.
Nassa Monensis.
reticulata.

macula.

Natica clausa.

ClRRIPEDA.

Balanus communis.
uddevallensis.

S. Page 252.

The flora of the Isle of Man is singularly deficient in inter-
est, so far as the presence of rarities distinguishes it. Considered
however with respect to the British flora generally, and espe-
cially as bearing on the geological history of that flora, it is not
unimportant.

The greatest part of the plants of the British Isles are colo-
nists from Central Europe. Tlifey emigrated hither after the
upheaval and over the upraised bed of the Pleistocene sea. Of
such plants, as might be expected, the rarer species are to be
met with in the eastern English counties, whilst those only ca-
pable of the greatest diffusion, and consequently of becoming
commonest, found their way to Ireland and the Isle of Man

APPENDIX S. 861

before the breaking up of that portion of the upraised Pleisto-
cene sea-bed which occupied the area of the now Irish Sea.
This event happening before some plants generally common in
England had diffused themselves so far, excluded them from
our Manx flora.

Before this upheaval of the Pleistocene sea-bed, such parts of
Britain as were above water existed in the condition of islands
in an ice-charged sea, or of land connected with other land very
far north, whence a vegetation of a boreal or arctic character
was derived. This vegetation still remains on the summits of
the Scottish, Cumberland and Welsh mount^ains, and consists
of alpine plants in the north of Scandinavia. These plants in
the north of Scandinavia, where climatal conditions nearly simi-
lar to those which prevailed within our area during the Plei-
stocene epoch are still maintained, are there seen not only on
the mountains, but growing to the edge of the shore.

In the Isle of Man we have no trace of this flora. There
are no alpine plants upon our mountains, which in all proba-
bility were during some part of the Pleistocene epoch wholly
submerged I".

In the south of England and south of Ireland there is a flora
consisting of such plants as are commonest in the west of
France, and which must have emigrated at the time of the
union of those parts of our islands with the continent. Of such
we have no traces on the Isle of Man, nor of the peculiar Astu-
rian flora which gives a character to the vegetation of the hills
in the west of Ireland.

The few rare Manx plants belong to an assemblage the
history of which has not yet been developed. They are essen-
tially western, either peculiar to the western parts of Britain
and to Ireland, or found chiefly in the western and south-

* I have the permission of Professor Porhes, in reference to the above
hypothesis, to direct attention to the facts which I have stated in the body
of the work, tending to establish the probability of great ice-charged
waves sweeping over the mountain summits, which would most effectually
destroy any previously existing flora. See page 178, supra. — ^J.G.C*

362 APPENDIX 8.

western coasts of Europe. They may possibly be fragments c^
the flora of the great western extension of Europe, the exist-
ence of which geological investigations have rendered probable
during a period beginning about the close of the Miocene
epoch, and terminating just before the historical.

Our rarest plants, as the Sinapis Monenns, the Campanula
hederacea, Pinguicula Itmtanica, Euphorbia portlandica, and
Scirpus Saviiy are instances. Radiola millegrana^ Centunculus
mijiimuSy Linum angustifolium and Carum verticillatufn, all
plants worth gathering, were probably companions of these.

The localities and distribution of such Manx plants as are
worthy of notice may briefly be narrated.

On the slaty rocks which form cliffs overhanging the sea,
between Douglas and Maughold Head, Douglas and Coshna-
hawin. Peel and Spanish Head, and the Calf Islet, are not a few
plants worth gathering. The most general of these are the
Scilla verna, a very beautiful species of Squill, flowering in
great* profusion during spring and summer, and scenting the
air with its fragrance. Cochlearia groenlandica and other
species of scurvy grass are common. Arenaria marina^ Plan-'
tago maritima, Statice Armeria (the sea-pink), Pyrethrum
maritimum, and Silene inflata are everywhere abundant. The
samphire, Crithnrnm maritimum, grows profusely among the
rocks in many places. Hie sea-kale, Crambe maritima,
occurs near Dalby . The handsome Lavatera arborea is found
on the Calf and at Spanish Head. The Artemisia maritima
(var. gallica) is abundant on the rocks near Kirk Santon.
Rhodiola rosea occurs near Peel. Scutellaria minor, Sdrpus
Savii and Pinguicula rosea are frequent in damp ravines
opening to the sea, and may all be gathered abundantly in
those between the Crescent and Banks' How, near Douglas.
In a field on the summit of the cUfFs above Derby Castle in
the same neighbourhood, the beautiftil and scarce wild flax
Linum angusti/olium grows in profusion.

On the mountains few plants worthy of note occur. Listera
cordata, an orchidaceous plant, has been found on Snaefell.

APPENDIX S. 863

lAalera avata is not uncommon. Fiold lutea occurs with
Gnaphalium dioicum ; also Empetrum nigrum ; Ruhus sctxa-
tilts and Salix pentandra grow in Sulby Glen, at the mouth of
which is the only locality where Ferbaseum Thapsus (Jacob's
ladder) has yet been met with apparently wild.

In moorlands, both on the mountains and near the sea, the
curious Hyperium elodes is very abundant. AnagallU tenella,
the prettiest of pimpernels, is common in such places, especially
beside springs. Bubtia Koehleri is not uncommon among our
brambles on a clayey soil.

On the limestone near Castletown the plant most worthy of
notice is the scarce Erodium marttimum. It is very abundant
near Scarlet. (Enanthe pimpinelloidea occurs in wet places
near the sea.

Most of the plants noted as growing on the slate sea cliffs
occur also on the limestone rocks by the shore. The henbane,
Hyoscyanms niger, grows at Poolvash.

The sandy tract of the north furnishes several interesting
plants. Convolmdua Soldanella ornaments the sea-side near
Ballaugh. SaUola Kali, Cakile marifima. Polygonum Raiiy
Arenaria peploides^ and various species of Atriplex are com-
mon on the shores. On the grassy summits of the sandy
brows bounding them may be foun^ Cerastium tetrandrum,
Sctgina maritima, Myosotis CoUina, Carex arenaria, Phleum
arenarium, Triticum loliaceum and Ficia lathyroidea: Ceras-
tium arvense and Lepidium Smithii occur in the sandy fields
in several localities (also near Castletown). The rare Sinapis
Monensis is found expanded in the sand, and sending out long
peduncles bearing bright yellow flowers, through a great part
of the north, especially near Ramsey and Jurby . It occurs also
on the sand-hills near Douglas, and may be gathered in the
grounds of Castle Mona. Orohanche major occurs near Ramsey.

A curious tetragonal variety of the eyebright, Euphrasia
officinalis, and a peculiar form of Poly gala, apparently distinct
from Polygala vulgaris, and probably identical with Polygala
oxyptera, are frequent in sandy fields near Ballaugh. Stackys

364 APPENDIX T«

ambigua is frequent in the damper parts of the sandy districtgr
of the north, and Scirpus maritimus occurs in pools in Andreas.
Glatcx maritima is frequent in wet places near the shore, hoth
in the north and near Castletown. Mentha pulegium, the
pennyroyal, grows in many places where there are marl pits.
In the peat hogs we find Alisma ranunculoides, Sparganium
simplex and Lycopus europaua.

In many places on all soils we find Hypericum androsamum,
Rosa spinosissima and tamentosa, Rubua carptnifolitis, Sedum
anglium. Cotyledon umbilicus and Lamium intermedicum.

Our most striking ferns are the rery rare and heautiful
Adiantum Capillus Veneris^ which has heen gathered at Glen
Meay, and in caves at Santon ; and the handsome Osmunda
regalis, which grows in many places throughout the island^
hut is especially ahundant and very luxuriant in the peat hogs
of the north. Aspidium Thalyptema, Polypodium dryopteris
Botrychium lunaria occur in many places.

Among common English plants very rare in the Isle of Man,
the dead nettle, Lamium album, and the hlack nightshade,
Solanum nigrum, may he mentioned.

Some scarce plants occur which appear to have heen intro-^
duced either accidentally or hy design. Such are Reseda fru-
ticulosa, which grows near Castletown, and on the wall of the
Rectory at BaUaugh; Gnaphalium margaritaceum, which
occurs on hedges in Andreas; Onopordum Acanthium (the
great thistle) near Ramsey ; Foeniculum pulgare, not rare near
houses ; and Melilotus leucantka, occasional and apparently
introduced with com. Erysimum ckeiranthoides has heen met
with on the road hetween Ramsey and Kirk Michael, and Cala^
mintha Nepeta in the same district.

T. Page 253.

The following Tahles have been compiled from the Journals

kept at the Point of Ayre Lighthouse in 5A° 27'N. lat., 4° 20' W.

long., elevated 106 feet above the medium level of the sea, and

from that at Calf of Man Lower Lighthouse, lat. 54° 5' N.,

APPENDIX T,

365

4° 46' W. long., at 275 feet above the sea. In consequence of the
elevation and exposure of the points at which the observations were
made, the mean temperature is determined somewhat lower than
the reality.
Table I. — An Avercuge of Twenty Tear s, from 1825—44 i?iclusive.

POINT OF AYRE

Averages for periods of five
years each.

Thermometer.

Barometer.

Bain,
gauge.

Wet

and
cloudy
days.

Clear
days.

9 a.m.

9 p.m.

9 a.m.

9 p.m.

From 1825-29 inclusive
From 1830-34 inclusive
From 1835-39 inclusive
From 1840-44 inclusive

Average for 20 years, 1
from 1825-44 inclusive/

51-789
50-663
48-240
48-748

50-438
49-720
47-647
48056

29-878
29-868
29-843
29-766

29-878
29-864
29-833
29-617

2°3-77
27-43
29-07
28-11

155
299
347
312

210
66
18
53

49-860

48-965

29-739

29-798

27-09

278

CALF OF MAN.

From 1825-29 inclusive
From 1830-34 inclusive
From 1835-39 inclusive
From 1840-44 inclusive

Average for 20 years,"!
from 1825-44 inclusive J

49*863
49-397
47-297
47-999

49-253
49-145
47-271
48-182

29-669
29-605
29-507
29-454

29-672
29-606
29-502
29-682

19-78

25-04

23-93

24-253

124
186
269
247

241

179

118

48-691

48-463

29-558

29-615

23-25

226

139

Hence we ohtain mean annual temperature for the whole island,
from 1825-44 inclusive, 48-995, or nearly 49° Fahrenheit = 9-3&
Centigrade. Mean annual fall of rain, 25-17 inches. Clear
days, 113. Wet and cloudy days, 252.

The following Tahle gives a comparative view of the tempe-
rature of the Isle of Man and some other portions of Europe, as
stated hy Baron Humholdt in his ' Cosmos.' The scale used is
the Centigrade.

Table II.

Places.

Year.

Winter.

Spring.

Sum-
mer.

Autumn.

Lati-
tude.

Height
above
sea.

Isle of Man

§39
9 5

8 6
13 9

9 8

S53
4 6

6
6 1

1 2

7 9

8 4
8 1

13 4
10

iS 16
15 3

17 5
21 7

18 1

10 71

9 8

8 6

14 4

o /

54 12
53 23
52 31
44 50
48 35

4
75

Dublin

Berlin

Bordeaux

Strasburg

366

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f-4

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(O ^ ^
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to o

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pl4

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1-4 * l-H

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Ol Ol Ol

CO 0) O)

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1-4 l-H rH

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pi- »l4 *^

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H=> <?' r

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l-H

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fM A .M

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: T

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: 04 1^

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1-4

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Ol CO

tH 00 ©

to Ol ^

• OO ©

kO o •-•

op Tt« Tt<
1-4 l-H fH

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Ol l-H 1-4

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29-619
29-468
29-461

01 *>• »>.

O lA Ol
0> op CO

ass

o» o> 6»

Ol Ol Ol

CO CO p-4
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r^ Oi CD

s s s

29-605
29-368
29-420

III

op qp CO

Ol Ol Ol

s g s

^ »C iO

s s s

Ol Ol CO

42-742
40-212
42-235

*>* O Ol

5 S ^

s s §

^ <j, o

^ ^ ^

111

42-248
39-981
41-495

^ O 00

^ s s

^55

«o «o *^

s s s
^35

i^ Qp CO

t* <o lb

^ ^ ^

March
'1831 to 1835 ...

1836 to 1840 ...

J841 to 1847 ...

{!? § ^

00 00 00
l-l i-« 1-4

s a s

fh «0 fh

CO CO '^
00 00 QO

^ ^ ^^

•9JAV

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00 00 00

joji^o

8 S 5?

00 00 00
rm4 ,^ r^

S 2 2

S CO "^

00 00 00
r-t f-t r~i

JO JUIOJ

JOJIHO

870

APPENDIX T.

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•sj

APPENDIX T,

371

op « ^
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(N <N

to t>. CO

00 -Tj* CO
to rj^ to

SS £

: f «

r : ^ .

<p «p r

^ 2 S

2 5 S

*^ kO to

T»4

1-4 kO

CM C^ rf

01 00 ^«

to kA kA

-<* <o t^

6^ CTi ^

00 00 00
Tf 00 to

CO CO CM

»1 CM 00

« to rh

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ko «b lb

^ CM 00

to '^

kb o) i>«

op qp
•^ ^ kO

«0 kO

''i^ ^1 ^

CM rH ^

<N ,M oi
CO C4 CM

tH ^ -^
ei f^ r^

CM i-l »-l

CM !-• ^
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1-4

op (N **

1— 1 m^

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p-4

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"^ «o -^

CI • •

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y to kO

op op w

«0 CO kO

F-i to

1— t

« 7^ ^

^ lO -^

Op <t|< kA

00
CI

"* <o »-•
<b ir^ kb

1— • pH

^ qo

i-« »li t*

6»

CM xh

rf ««• W

1-4 r^

01 CM kA

w ■ do

CM ^ o
O) o ^«

qo to ^

0> to CO
CM ^ pH

"?* T^ ^

w © do
p^ 1-4

CM '^

8 3 S

Mi *^ ^ i

"^ CM O

ko «b ©

1— 1 1— •

: CO 00

. 1-4

T(4 r« C)

w rt fM

1— • pH

« kA
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fs ? s

rU ^ C4

00 -^ *^
qo ko CM
^ o c«

2: S §5

^ 6^ ^

CO kA CM
T* ^ ^

^ ^ F^

l-H

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00 CM CO
op kO kO

g § S

29-988
29-889
29-455

1-4

-^ CM CM
CO !>. *>.

to kO kO

g s g

29-912
29-926
29-915

29-707
29-564
29-564

to 1-4 to

1 i g

"* CM CM

CO !>. to

^ kA kA

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22 § 2

CM CO CM

Tt*

55-136
54-188
54 836

S g s
s s s

kH
kA

t^ © i-l

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«>. kA kA

s s s

kA kA kA

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CM

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kA kA kA

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lojTO

00 00 00

l-l ^M ^H

S B S

CO CO ^

00 00 00

l-< »M PH

JO ;nioj

August
'1831 to 1835 ...

1836 to 1840 ...

J841 to 1847 ...

S S ^
00 00 00

pH fH P-i

s s s

§11

i
JO !|UIO J

•uupv

372

APPENDIX T.

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CO CO

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OO ©1

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qp ->

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to qp

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CI A

Tf
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CO f-i

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t>.

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l-H

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fH fH

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: At 90

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§ S2

S 2 S

d d ^3

s§ s :s

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1 ^ s

29-538 29-540
29-559 29-560
29-432 29-427

29-918 '29-858
29-993 29-916
29-747 129-733

d
d

s 1

111

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October
'1831 to 18^5 ...

1836 to 1840 ...

.1841 to 1847 ...

lO © r*

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00 00 00

t^ r-i ,^

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fH (O fH
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00 00 00

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JO JIBO

APPENDIX T.

373

CO «o »o

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4-03
3-92
1-44

2-32
2-30

{: 2 S
d d d

^ CO «o

? S 8
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s s §

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g s s

y-4

29-584
29-555
29-412

29-870
29-841
29-804

I-H to CO
C^l PH kO
CO <N CO
0> 0> 04
CI CI CSI

29-828
29-563
29-731

29-573
29-634
29-410

29-843
29-835
29-811

00 CO to
00 to rH
00 -^ i-H

^ § 5:

tn o 00
o> CO «>.

^ ^ ^

rH
CI

d I-H CO

OS o» to

t^ rM OS
^ ^ ^

S S 2

'O O d

lb « w
^ ^ ^

I-H

46-337
45-979
46-521

o o» *>•

g § s

5 3^

45-419
42-674
43-460

fH 00 to
d CO CO
kO to 00
kO d CO

^ -* ^

November
'1831 to 1835 ...

1836 to 1840 ...

J841 to 1847 ...

S § 5?

OO 00 00
1^ r^ ^^

3 3 S

«-H CO ^

s sg s

f-H fH ,-H

JO :>aioj

^ kO O *r^
^00 OO 00

'g ^ l-H 1^.

^3 3 3

^ I-H to P-l

Peo CO '^

00 00 00

•-I I-H r-1

•nBpi

»o o «>.

CO 00 00
I-H ^H I-H

5 5*S
Si ^ ■^

00 00 00

I-H I-H f-H

•9jXy
}0 auioj

374

APPENDIX T.

Table V. — Table of Mean Monthly and Annual Temperatures for a
period of Twenty-Jive Years, from 1823 to 1847 inclusive.

December
January ...
February...

Calf of Man.

Point of Ayre.

Temperature for
the whnle IfilAnd

Total
mean In-
sul. temp.
1823-47,

Fahr.

Average
1823-30.

Average
1831-47.

Average
1823-30.

Average
1831-47.

1823-30.

1831-47.

43-768
40-161
41-327

45-083
41-120
40-567

44-931
41-493
42-323

45-652
40-845
40*929

44-349
40-827
41-825

44-029
40-982
40-739

Winter 1
temp. J

41-752

42-257

42-918

42-475

42-364

41-583

41-953

March

April

May

42-675
44-712
50028

40-318
44 947

47-469

44-088
46-927
51-784

43-277
45-112
50-488

43-381
45-819
50-916

42-382
45-031
49-884

Spring 1
temp. J

45-805

44-245

47-600

46-292

46-705

45-766

46-236

June

July

August ...

54-367
56-957
57-320

53-617
55-335
56-713

56-370
58-466
58-335

54-601
57-380
58194

55-868
57-711
52-827

54-043
56-357
57-357

Summer 1
temp. J

56-215

55-222

57-724

56-692

55-469

55-919

55-694

September
October ...
November

54-335
51-824
47-433

54-709
50-891
46-384

56-996
52-976
48-489

55-659
51-001
46030

55-665
52-400
47-961

55-206
50-691
45-707

Autumnal \
temp... J

51-197

50-661

52-817

50-897

52013

50-535

51-274

Hence the mean annual temperature of the Isle of Man, taken for a
period of 25 years, from 1823 to 1847 inclusive, is 48*789 Fahrenheit
= 9°'27 Centigrade thermometer.

APPENDIX T.

375

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III! I

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S M I 1 I 151 S llj lllSfl 85

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aoaoQOQoooQOQooDoocoooaoQoaoQoaoaoQOcoaoao

376

APPENDIX T.

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THE END.

Printed by Richard aad John E. Taylor, Red Lion Court, Fleet Street.

jr uws'jtL.

XANGNESS P?

lines of* Section .
Scaler , Chve^ Inchy to tkt Mile .

Ma.h)W

This Map t<ihen frrnn Spcvd's Jfistmy of Omtt Mritaitt e^vhUnta aneie/U InkiV hotfvin
the North & SmUk of the Irlati^l whtWi have Mince heen drained .

376

APPENDIX T.

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THE END.

Printed by Richard and John E. Taylor, Red Lion Court, Fleet Street.

saaiD

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Scale ^ (hie Inch to theMi/e.

± vu4J^'jja..

XAN&1?^SS PT

lines of* Section .
Scaler , (hw Inch to the Mile .

._.,,« 1,,. "R^P-.- -R:

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ty Re«Te,BTOth»T«

This Map tnAen'Jrcm Speed's Jftsirry of Omtt Jiritairt' e^vJtilnts anciaU f-aktv hotkin^
the yortii & Smith of the Islartti wht'ch have mice been tbrtined .

Piduv

POOLVASH BAY

GROUND FLAN

ahewing remarkable Bosses irv
(VTweotionywU^' Tr/rpJ)ykar

Locality

Section from Ato B in the above Plan

Shewing tke/ latdulaUons caused^ I/y the/ protruncrv of Ti^ccf)

e ty P.eevB Br«»tn«B.

_- -L-.T} -n 4-1, —

J-

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A 6850A0

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TV Of MICHIGAN

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DO NOT REMOVE

OR
MUaMii^^ADS

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