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Full text of "Japanese impressions, with a note on Confucius"

JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 



JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

WITH A NOTE ON CONFUCIUS 41 

TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH OF 
PAUL-LOUIS GOUGHOUD * * 

BY FRANCES RUMSEY, WITH 
A PREFACE BY ANATOLE FRANCE 



LONDON: JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD, W. 
NEW YORK: JOHN LANE COMPANY MCMXXI 



Printed in Grtt Britain by R. Clay ff Sont, Ltd., London and Sunday. 



TO 
THE EXQUISITE MASTER 

ANATOLE FRANCE 

P.-L. C. 



2218701 




PREFACE 



HE French author whom I have 
the honour to present to this English 
public considered as it is by H. 
Taine to be the most serious, the 
most reserved and the most attentive 
in the world is worthy, I am cer- 
tain, to occupy the leisure of so 
estimable a collective sensibility. M. Paul-Louis 
Couchoud, former scholar of the Ecole Normale, 
professor of philosophy and doctor of medicine, 
published in 1902, while still very young, a book 
which already disclosed the centre of attraction 
of a mind ceaselessly stirred by an ardent curiosity, 
but which revolves about a central point in that 
it is harmonious and fundamentally informed. This 
book is a study on Spinoza (published by Alcan) con- 
ceived in an original manner. In his belief that 
the doctrine of a philosopher is an historic event, 
the author has attached the work of the excom- 
municated Jew of Amsterdam to those exterior 
circumstances which can explain it ; he acquaints 
us with the surroundings in which Spinoza lived 
and unfolds an animated and inspired series of 
pictures. Thus the vocation of M. Couchoud was 
manifest at an early hour. He has since made 
important studies in psychiatry, he has conducted 

vii 



viii PREFACE 

laboratory researches and has even isolated a new 
germ. But his chief desire is to place his acquisi- 
tion at the service of the modern Clio and his 
interest is to meditate on the history of the moral 
ideas which constitute the common base of each 
human generation. 

It is thus that he has been led to the study of 
the origin of Christianity. Having reached the 
splendid meridian of the road of life, he is con- 
secrating the years of his rich maturity to the com- 
position of a book which will present under a new 
aspect the obscure beginnings of a religion that has 
conquered a vast portion of the world. As much 
as it has been given to me to know of this work in 
process of formation inspires a vivid interest and 
that enthusiasm which emanates from the presenti- 
ment of a great accomplishment : Nescio quid majus 
nascitur ... I shall not finish the phrase : it would 
be a lapse of taste to assume the oracular tone. 
But it is none the less true that attentive minds, in 
Europe and in America, see this exegesis, after three 
centuries of effort, touch on the verge of those 
results least awaited by the ignorant multitude. 
How magnificent and how worthy of praise are those 
men who, with infinite labour, surmounting almost 
insurmountable obstacles, and surrounded by the 
indifference or the hostility of the mass, ceaselessly 
seek the truths which are essentially necessary to 
liberty of mind and to tranquillity of heart. 



But I have not characterized Dr. Couchoud until 
I have defined his familiar spirit, which whispers 
perpetually in his ear and leads him at its will. 



PREFACE ix 

This spirit is the same which goaded the old Hero- 
dotus to wander throughout the known world of 
the Greeks, to visit the barbarians and to study their 
customs, and which furnished the matter of his 
tales ; it is the spirit which haunts the curious and 
sincere soul whose jealous care is to paint from 
nature the spirit of travel ; that spirit which 
led Marco-Polo to the Great Mogul, at the price 
of cruel fatigues and numberless dangers. To-day 
one is a Marco-Polo without difficulty. Favoured 
by the genius of his time, Dr. Couchoud has since 
the days of his early youth circled the world. The 
book which I am here presenting, Japanese Impres- 
sions, owes much to this familiar spirit in him. 
The title, if it be not exact as a definition, at least 
promises us a charming voyage, and it does not 
disappoint us. The volume is actually composed 
of five studies, three of these consecrated to Japan, 
where the author lived, and one to China which he 
visited. 

How gradual, after all, has been our advance 
in the knowledge of the planet we inhabit, one of 
the smallest of its system, which is itself not one of 
the greatest of the heavenly systems. Even yester- 
day, for the European consciousness, the Far East 
was scarcely included in the philosophy of history. 
It is giVen no place in the Discours sur Vhistoire 
universelle of Bossuet. Voltaire's genius divined 
China ; but he did not understand it, and in the 
eighteenth century it was to us a still inaccessible 
country. Ernest Renan, whose mind was so wide 
and so curious, concerned himself little with it. 
In my youth no one revealed to me the grandeur 
and the beauty of the antique Oriental civilizations. 
China was scarcely known to us save by its porcelains, 



i PREFACE 

of whose age we were ignorant, and Japan by its 
prints which we admired without discernment. 
The European generation to which M. Paul-Louis 
Couchoud belongs has been the first to investigate, 
to study and to consider at leisure an opened China 
and a transformed Japan ; a Japan which was 
victor of Russia and rival of the United States, 
and which now enters the concert of peoples and 
makes itself redoubtable by its fleet, its army and 
fts diplomacy. 

M. Couchoud, from the moment he saw Japan, 
loved it ; not only for its cleverness, and its astound- 
ing promptitude in borrowing from Europeans 
weapons with which to combat them, but for its 
fine love of beauty, its courtesy, its exquisite art 
of living and for a sentiment for nature of an 
unequalled penetration. Were it not that his 
curiosity is universal and that he is possessed by a 
need to see and comprehend everything, he would, 
like Lafcadio Hearn, have adopted a Japanese life 
and passed the remainder of his days in a joint 
appreciation, with this people so dedicated to the 
love of landscape, of the festivals of the first snow 
and the bursting of the cherry trees into flower. 

3 

His book begins with an article entitled " The 
Japanese Quality," treating of the prevalence of 
the love of Nature in a country where every one 
is a poet, a draughtsman or a musician. In Japan 
one paints and writes with the same brush, as M. 
Couchoud tells us, and poetry is not the exclusive 
property of the erudite. Art is universal. The 
woodcutter's wife crowns the little bundle which 



PREFACE xi 

she carries on her head with a few red leaves. It 
is the country of design. With a single stroke the 
Japanese can perpetuate the attitude of an animal. 
What Pisanello alone created in Italy has constantly, 
and during centuries, been created in Japan. Our 
author attributes this aptitude to depict both 
domestic and wild animals to that sympathy for 
every living creature which is natural to Asiatic 
peoples. The Japanese believe themselves to be 
of the same essence as beasts. It lends them an 
amiable and charming quality, that they have not 
broken the bond which binds man to animate nature 
which is the whole of nature ; they remain in a 
communion with universal life, with animals and 
with plants, and they have not taken refuge, with 
an arrogant ignorance, in the empty spaces of 
metaphysics. 



After these pages, written with profound feeling 
and with enchantment in their style, follows a 
section on the Japanese Muse, consecrated in par- 
ticular to the haikaij a poem composed in a fixed 
form of seventeen syllables. It is thus a fragment of 
extreme brevity, beside which the European sonnet 
appears an epic. It naturally becomes imperative 
that these seventeen syllables should emanate from 
a definite emotion. In Japan the poet speaks in a 
universal language, the same which a countryman 
uses and understands. In its compactness, we are 
told, the haikai lays a fine touch on both the ear 
and the heart. Basho, the Epictetus and the 
Marcus Aurelius of Japan, excelled in this mode 
of composition which bears for us an analogy to 
the Greek epigram. But there is more art in 



xii PREFACE 

Meleager than in Basho. Since he is far more 
familiar than we with the haikai, M. Couchoud 
savours it more intimately. He cites an extensive 
selection of these charming dwarf-like morsels and 
accentuates for us their salient quality. With his 
natural persuasiveness he was able during the war 
to inspire one of his friends, Julien Vocance, with 
the idea of noting the impressions of trench life 
in this rhythm so essentially Japanese, and M. 
Vocance has succeeded in expressing, in haikai, 
experiences of the finest sensibility. (Julien Vocance, 
Cent Visions de Guerre.} 



The third section of this collection is " Japanese 
Patriotism." It is a transcript of the journal which 
the author kept in Tokyo in the month of February, 
1904, on the outbreak of war between Japan and 
Russia ; notes rapidly flung on paper, of a vivid 
interest to all who lived in France and in England 
the hours of August and September, 1914, and of the 
widest significance for those who consider in a 
philosophic spirit the passage of human events. 
These last will, perhaps, be struck by the fact that, 
taken as a whole and at the same degree of civiliza- 
tion, the differences between men are insignificant 
and that in like conditions they act more or less in 
like fashion. We see a people of a yellow race 
preparing to fight a powerful opponent. To watch 
them and to hear them inspires a Frenchman, and, 
indeed, an Englishman if his self-esteem does not 
weaken his judgment, with a sense of their likeness to 
himself. In the face of the enemy they show the 
same patriotism, the same confidence and the same 



PREFACE xiii 

enthusiasm. Selecting in advance the formula 
which the Allies were afterwards to adopt, Nippon 
declared that it was fighting in defence of civilization. 
All factions merged into one ; only the Socialists 
gave vent to some protestations which were con- 
temptuously disregarded. The merchants proved 
to be extraordinarily bellicose and recognized that 
the war had business advantages for them ; the 
government suspended parliamentary guaranties 
and established a censorship of books and news- 
papers ; the bonzes collected to present the soldiers 
with protective charms precisely as, ten years later, 
the French priests distributed in the trenches the 
medals of the Immaculate Conception. War bonds 
were issued and the heavy subscriptions to them, 
from patriotic motives, made a handsome aggregate ; 
private individuals poured their gold into the coffers 
of the state ; and those booths at the fairs where the 
loafers of Tokyo came to shoot Russians for a penny 
recall to one, vividly enough, the flaring stage of the 
Empire Music Hall where Londoners applauded 
a clown buffeting with his fists an effigy of President 
Kruger. 

If one wishes to cite particularities of difference, 
one could perhaps note that the Japanese gave his 
riches to the state with a liberality unknown to 
Europeans. In the diverse agitations of the time 
there was exemplified that Asiatic disdain of death 
which is without a parallel under our skies. One 
is no less struck by the chivalrous spirit inherited 
from the old Samurai, notably manifest when the 
Russian ambassador quitted Tokyo overwhelmed 
with honours and with gifts, and which frequently 
expressed itself in courtesies of language in regard 
to the enemy. But it must be considered that the 



xiv PREFACE 

Japanese had not had to bear the strain of long wars 
with Russia, with their consequent injuries ; that 
since the outbreak of these hostilities the constant 
victory of their arms made generosity facile ; and 
that in any case their tone essentially changed when 
they learned that the Russians were sinking merchant 
ships and indulging in acts of piracy. From that 
moment they were treated as barbarians, Goths 
and Vandals. 

It is unprofitable to persist too closely in these 
parallels between peoples who never act in circum- 
stances which are completely identical. None 
the less war lends itself more than peace to such 
comparisons, since it discovers the primitive impulses 
of men and discloses masses united in a common 
action. Since we are led, under the guidance of 
an historian-philosopher, to speculate on these 
relations of humanity in time and space, we must 
necessarily wonder whether mortals, in their sub- 
jection to necessity, have not resemblances in the 
essential, in all epochs and throughout the world, 
and despite the divergences produced by race, 
by climate and by all special conditions of life. In 
ancient times likeness between peoples seems to 
have been the principal point of consideration. 
It was the effort of the minds of the seventeenth 
and eighteenth centuries to determine that man 
resembled man, under exterior divergences. The 
romanticists, with Walter Scott at their head, and 
looking to the wider distances, suddenly felt dissem- 
blances to be more fine than identities. Augustin 
Thierry, to cite that evocator of the past who, in 
an epoch of inexactness, kept the measure of his 
thought equable and his tone just, is visibly devoted 
to distinctive particularities and forces local colour 



PREFACE xv 

in his pictures. In one chapter of his studies he 
takes exception to his predecessor, the old Anquetil, 
who fastens upon the French, from Clovis to Louis 
XIV, uniform traits. But shortly thereafter Sainte- 
Beuve, that profound student of souls, was to esti- 
mate that the more one studies history the more 
one discovers that men and things, under variations 
of form and of costume, have always closely resembled 
each other. (For a more thorough dissection of this 
compare the histories of Mezeray and Rollin with 
those of the two Thierry and Michelet : Guizot 
remains of the old school : the reader will be still 
more struck, if he places the lelemaque of Fenelon 
and the Sethos of the Abbe Terrasson side by side 
with the Martyrs of Chateaubriand and the 
Salammbo of Flaubert.) The fundamental and rapid 
progress of the historical sciences hastened the 
romantic defeat. But however we recognize the 
essential identities it is none the less true, as the 
common language expresses it, that a stranger 
remains strange. M. Couchoud is particularly 
gifted to write history in accordance with the 
exigency of modern thought ; as a philosopher and 
an artist he expresses with an equal felicity the 
general and the particular. 



The fourth and final chapter of the book trans- 
ports us from Japan to China, that immense and 
venerable land where, under the Sung, as M. 
Couchoud recounts, were invented refinements 
of sensibility unknown to the rest of the world. 
This is the relation of a visit, or I should rather say 
of a pilgrimage, to the tomb of Confucius at K'iu- 



xvi PREFACE 

feou. Our author inspires in us his own love for 
this old sage who spoke so little of a celestial provi- 
dence, who made no pronouncement upon what 
was beyond the knowledge of man, who confined 
his teaching to the conduct of life and of public 
affairs and who, in advance of the stoics, professed 
charity to human kind. M. Couchoud foresees 
and hails a day when the best thought of the world, 
as a single entity, will unite in a common veneration 
of Confucius and of Socrates ; and this concludes 
a volume which, composed as it is of detached 
articles, forms in its spirit and its doctrine a homo- 
geneous whole. 



The charm of M. Couchoud lies in that rare 
power to evoke ancient or distant facts which is 
the faculty of a Renan and a Ferrero, and which 
touches history with the interest of a living spectacle. 
He is gifted with that rich imagination, as necessary 
to the historian as to the poet, and without which 
nothing is inspired or illuminated. He has invention 
in the strict sense of the word, the art of divining, 
of disclosing what is hidden. Yet this penetrating 
spirit, which pierces to the depths of things, seems 
at times to brush over their surface, so light a hand 
does he lay on them. His thought naturally inclines 
to benevolence, not that he constrains himself to an 
excessive indulgence to individuals, whom he rather 
seeks to appreciate with equity. His goodwill 
is larger than this, and approaches that of Renan ; 
it is to men at large, and to the obscure multitude, 
that it lends itself. His kindness radiates like a 
living light and dissipates the shadows of an extinct 
faith. He loves men even with their faults and 



PREFACE xvii 

follies, and seems at times to excuse himself for 
not participating in their weaknesses. 

There obviously results in his case what results 
with most minds who exercise to excess the faculty 
of comprehension. Since they recognize the reason 
of what exists, they are ready to accommodate 
themselves to it. They do not easily combat even 
what they least approve ; they rather enter into 
that popular thought most opposed to their own 
and register its prejudices. Polemics horrify them ; 
they wisely fear the loss of time in mere dispute. 
If, however, the old Scandinavians were right to 
believe in the virtue of runes, and if a sacred word 
traced on a stone had the power to change the world, 
who better than such men could write that word ? 
But I am forgetting the fact that they are ceaselessly 
writing it, unknown to themselves, and that it is their 
thought which is transforming societies. 

M. Couchoud writes without affectation, with 
no apparent effort, with a natural beauty and a 
winning grace ; his concrete style illumines, colours 
and vivifies objects ; like that Venus whom the 
gravest of the Latin poets invokes, he brings flowers 
to blossom, scatters a radiance and penetrates one's 
feeling with a fine flame. Great praise is also due 
to Madame Frances Rumsey for having transformed 
into English all that could be conserved of so rich 
a language. 

ANATOLE FRANCE. 

January, 1920. 



TRANSLATOR'S NOTE 




T may seem appropriate to note the 
service which, beyond its original 
theme, M. Couchoud's delicate little 
volume renders to such thought as is 
dedicated to the play of the selective 
sense. We have in it not only a charm- 
ing glimpse of Japan but, from the 
point of view of the English reader, a visible illustra- 
tion of the action of the fine French thought dealing 
with a subject completely alien. It has become 
a tradition with us that the French mind does not 
readily travel, in the sense that travel is a projection 
and displacement of the imagination ; even in 
dealing with history and with art, far removed from 
the immediacy of our day, it is our impression that 
the French writer remains of his time and of his 
particular place ; and that for long he looked upon 
Asia as he saw it in the lacquer of Louis XV furniture 
and in the chinoiserie of the snuff-boxes at Versailles. 
We have before us the interesting instance of a 
mind which has travelled in a perfectly defined 
degree and with a clarity of purpose possible only 
to this race with the purpose of recognizing and 
apprehending beauty. M. Couchoud is completely 
logical. He makes no attempt to draw artificial 
conclusions from either historic or artistic data, 
except as they minister to his central idea. He 
does not deduce morals from his delightful poetic 

xix 



xx TRANSLATOR'S NOTE 

themes. He applies himself to the facts he sees, 
rather than he derives from them a forced con- 
clusion. His comments are notations, and not 
an attempt at an impossible participation. This 
integrity in the French judgment strikes long 
echoes as it strikes against the integrity of the 
Japanese character and discovers to us much that, 
in our looser way, we have never formed into defini- 
tion. The French penetration makes evident to 
us such points as that, though the Japanese have the 
instinct to learn the art and arts of life, it yet so 
slightly modifies their actual living ; that in spite 
of their cult for Nature, they learn so little from 
her ; it defines the line between the progressive 
and the imitative, and it understands that there is 
no mere formality in the Japanese formalism but 
that it is a current ritual of thought and action. 
Those very divergences between France and Japan, 
of which M. Couchoud reminds us, have their 
surprising analogies and correspondences. Some 
taste of France comes to us when we realize that 
Japanese art, which seems to have all the saliency 
of the personal, is produced by the mind of the race 
rather than by the individual mind. The sub- 
ordination of the individual himself to form touches 
the fabric of the French social consciousness ; just 
as the Japanese caligraphic sense may strike our 
vision as French thought made visible, in its fine 
tracery and sharp relativities. 

There was no more possibility of translating M. 
Couchoud's text literally than of explaining his 
impact with the Japanese civilization entirely by 
either its affirmations or contradictions. It has 
been necessary to feel for the action of his mentality, 
a mentality at once ascetic, grave and rich, His 



TRANSLATOR'S NOTE xxi 

idea has been literally preserved wherever possible ; 
since his letter is his spirit, it is hoped that this has 
been scrupulously accomplished. His translations 
of the haikai have been carried as far as possible 
word for word into the rougher medium of English ; 
and it is a sign of the beauty of his process that, 
even in an Occidental approximation, so much of 
their fineness, their sensitiveness and their com- 
pactness remains. What is above all a tribute to 
M. Couchoud, and to all of France in him, is that a 
record of impressions of travel, which was neces- 
sarily fugitive, should yet be so vivid and so 
distinguished. 



CONTENTS 

PACE 

PREFACE ........ ^ 

TRANSLATOR'S NOTE ...... X1X 

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER ..... x 

THE JAPANESE QUALITY ..... *3 

THE LYRIC EPIGRAMS OF JAPAN .... 33 

JAPANESE PATRIOTISM ...... 73 

CONFUCIUS ........ I2 9 






XX111 



INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER 




INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER 

HE four fragments which form this 
notation were written in Japan and 
in China. In them will be found 
the faults, and possibly the verity, of 
the immediacy of a first impression. 
They were the author's entry into 
Asia ; and they are destined for 
those who have not yet crossed that enchanted 
threshold. 

" The Japanese Quality " is an attempt such as one 
makes to concentrate, for one's more understanding 
friends, the salient elements of a year of an alien 
existence. If I had to reconstitute a longer experi- 
ence, I should change some of my details and I 
should add much, but I should leave throughout 
the same colour. There is in Japan an essential 
charm which the man of taste will always seek there, 
and which he cannot find elsewhere. One captures 
it in the sight of the pinnacle of a little temple 
amongst the pines, in the ceremonies of the accept- 
ance of a cup of tea, or in the smile with which two 
Japanese greet each other. Inherent in this charm 
is a conception of life and of art whose perfection 
was reached at Kyoto, in the fifteenth century, under 
the principality of the Ashikaga. Kyoto has the 
immanent grandeur of Athens and of Florence ; 
like them it resumes an exquisite moment in human 

3 



4 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

history. The miracle of beauty which united in 
Athens the procession of the Panathenea, the 
sculpture of Phidias and the tragedy of Sophocles 
brought into co-existent being, at Kyoto, the 
gardens of the moon, the painting of Sesshu, the 
No dances and the rites of communion with great 
art. There is in the East a secret taste of life, 
a penetration of nature, a fine effusion of pity, an 
enjoyment accentuated by brevity and mystery, 
and a flash of the spirit, which those who have once 
tasted know cannot exist in the Occident. The 
art and the moral life of Mediterraneans is too 
dependent on their public. Eloquence, dialectic 
and humanism are the marrow of their bones. It 
is to the senses of that soul which has the passion 
of solitude that Japan opens a special world of 
beauty, opposed to, but as fine in its values, as that 
which exists in the Parthenon. Japan is as eternal 
as Greece ; like Greece it is a universal possession. 
As long as men exist who have the sensitiveness to 
respond to the incomparable art of the Sung and 
Ashikaga, and who comprehend the Hagoromo 
and Yamamba dances, the spirit of antique Japan 
will survive in its irreducible and incomparable 
essence. 

The exquisite fourteenth-century Japan carries 
one's thoughts back to the twelfth century in China, 
as Florence turns one's thoughts to Athens. It 
was China where, under the Sung emperors and 
beside the flowery lakes of Hanchou, there was 
invented a refinement of sensibility unequalled in 
human history. The thread runs still farther back, 
to that first creator of idealism, India, whose mission- 
aries brought to the industrious Chinese and the 
warlike Japanese that Buddhistic principle which, 



INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER 5 

rough but full of fire, was to spread a unique spark 
of animation. Asia is one. The same great spiritual 
torrents and the same imperceptible tremors of 
sensitiveness have passed through it from end to end. 
This is the first realization necessary for one who 
knocks at any one of its doors. But all these waves 
of feeling broke about Japan, and became part of 
her own vibration. The Indian ardour and the 
Indian delicacy, the Chinese power of reason and 
the Japanese force of will, are all necessary, in their 
highest intensity, to the production of a Japanese 
work of art. 

" The Lyric Epigrams of Japan " are in reality, 
in the compression of their seventeen syllables, poems 
in miniature or a prolonged exclamation, which 
lose in translation both their incisiveness and the 
speed which makes their life. These epigrams are 
the more modern form of the Japanese lyric art ; 
the other forms are the classic poems of thirty-one 
syllables and the fragmentary chants of the No 
dances. These latter are no less essentially Japanese ; 
but the sentiment for nature which they exhale 
is of Chinese origin and they are saturated with an 
Indian ecstasy. 

The interest of the epigrams is that they furnish 
us with the perfect example of that discontinuous 
poetry towards which all Japanese poets, and possibly 
all Asiatic poets, tend. Stephane Mallarme has 
denounced the facile eloquence which has sub- 
merged our own lyrics. He wished that poetic 
expression should deal only with those things which 
could in no way be treated in prose. Poetry had 
been continuously betrayed, as he put it with a 
smile, " since the great Homeric deviation." If 



6 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

he were reminded of what existed before Homer, 
he qualified it by the term orphism. The Vedic 
hymns, the early Chinese poems and the Japanese 
uta and haikai touch Mallarm^'s own orphism. In 
comparison with them all our own poetic styles 
are oratorical. Mallarme had an intuition of this 
development when he wrote : 

Imiter le Chinois au coeur limpide et fin 
De qui 1'extase pure est de peindre la fin, 
Sur ses tasses de neige a la lune ravie, 
D'une bizarre fleur qui parfume sa vie 
Transparente, la fleur qu'il a sentie enfant, 
Au fillgrane bleu de 1'ame se greffant. 

It is above all the discursive and the explanatory 
which are extirpated from the Japanese poem. Its 
fantastic flower is unique, as it detaches itself from 
the snow. A bouquet is always forbidden. The 
essence of the creation is sensation, lyrically expressed, 
caught at the instant when it bubbles from the 
spring, and before a movement of either thought 
or passion has placed and utilized it. Logical 
relation of experience is left to prose ; the placing 
of ideas in affective sequence, by means of rhythm, 
redundancy and cadences, is left to eloquence. 
The Japanese poetry has its consummation in pure 
sensation, which it rigorously refuses to sully with 
qualification or explanation. It is therefore essen- 
tial that the subject should contain to perfection 
this initial purity ; and in this incomparable use 
of the selective sense the poet's genius begins and 
ends. 

Words must always remain an obstacle. The 
composition of them in sequence creates a chain 
and introduces an elemental order which is instantly 
artificial. It is for this reason that Japanese poetry 



INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER 7 

has freed itself of all forms but that of seventeen 
syllables ; and a discussion of this special instance 
of composition will perhaps interest those who have 
meditated on the essence of poetry. 

" Japanese Patriotism " is a digest of notes kept, 
in Japai, during the first two months of the Russo- 
Japanese war. They are a cinematographic view 
of Japan, at a moment when her destiny hung in 
the grave uncertainties of oscillation. As a French- 
man, my sympathies were more naturally in the 
Russian canp ; but, little by little, Japan conquered 
personal instances of dissimilarity, as she afterwards 
conquered her enemies. 

Neither the war of 1894 nor that of 1914 shook 
the country to its foundations or discovered its 
essence like "hat of 1904. It was an exceptional 
hour for observation. A great war puts a people 
to those sup r eme tests to which a vital sickness 
puts the individual. Under its disintegration the 
profoundest farces of resistance come into play. 
We Occidentals are now emerging from such a 
condition, and the reader may, perhaps, be curious 
to see how ar. Asiatic people has issued from a 
similar experieice. I have ventured to present 
these notes as ai instantaneous sketch, and without 
retouching them. The penetrative mind will judge 
for itself if this Japanese devotion to country can 
become a part of the soul, and mingle with the deli- 
cate poetry and the calm wisdom of Asia. 

The Russo-Japanese war will remain a vital date 
in the history of peoples. When it ended, in the 
victory of the Rising Sun, the contact of Japan 
with the Occident was established on terms of 
equality. By means of her victory Japan, as the 



8 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

champion of Asiatic civilization, created for herself 
a place amongst the civilized nations of Europe, 
a place which she has since occupied, with che 
fullest rights, in the late European war. This 
particular participation, whose political results 
are in process of formation under our eyes, is rich 
with immense consequences for general civilisation. 
Across the fine lacquer bridge built by the fepanese 
soldier between Asia and Europe, all thi stored 
treasures of humanity may be equally exchanged. 

" Confucius " is the relation of a Msit which 
the author made to the philosopher's tative land, 
in company with a young and learned member of 
the Ecole franchise d'Extreme-Orient, M. Aurous- 
seau. M. Chavannes, so regretted br his many 
friends, was kind enough to read this account. 

One owes to the Sage of China an impression 
of complete continuity ; it is through him that one 
discovers that beneath the robe of Chiiese embroid- 
eries there is the same reunion o: intellectual 
faculties which lies beneath the himaticn of Aristotle, 
beneath the toga of Cicero and beneath the pour- 
point of Descartes. The power of drect reasoning 
appears as one of the most universal of possessions, 
identical in its essence across centuries and distances. 
From the impenetrability of China and through 
the mists of time, Confucius speak to us a word 
which we instantly comprehend ; and, in a flash, 
he has become our contemporary and our compatriot. 

The dissemination of his doctrine of reason, 
however, remains an incomprehensible prodigy. It 
brings us to a vast and disturbing question : what 
respective use of reason has been made by the peoples 
of Europe and the peoples of Asia ? In Europe it 



INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER 9 

is apparent that reason has essentially been applied 
in the realm of knowledge, and that it has both 
invented and perfected the sciences. In Asia it 
has been applied in the relation of man to man 
and to the perfection of justice and happiness. It 
is this point which resumes the profound fascination 
of Asia. Life there is simpler and softer than with 
us because it is more reasoned. " You, Greeks, are 
the youth of the world," said the Egyptian priest 
to Herodotus. " You are young," is the phrase 
of the Asiatic sages to our restless scientists, who 
have weighed the stars but who have found no 
formula to bring men closer to justice or happiness. 
The Revelations are the empiric solution with which 
we must still content ourselves. We shall learn 
from Asia as much as she will learn from us ; with us 
the individual is more remarkable, but her busy 
hive of existence is better constructed. 

To confront these two halves of humanity will 
be the great work of this century. We are approach- 
ing an epoch which transcends our imaginations. 
At no given period of the past has the human con- 
sciousness apprehended the death and the birth 
of such vital factors. For the first time, from one 
end of the earth to the other, man is aware of man ; 
for the first time there is indicated some basis of a 
common life for humanity. Between the peoples 
who invented the ideograms of Asia and those who 
adopted the vocal roots of Europe, there was 
formerly a terrifying distance ; there is to-day a 
nearness no less terrifying. The inventions of the 
mechanical world the locomotive, the steamship, 
the automobile, the telegraph, the daily paper and 
the cinematograph have automatically accom- 
plished this. To-day, in any given twenty-four 



io JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

hours, the same news is known, at least virtually, 
throughout the world. The mechanical processes 
have so united humanity that they are forced to an 
identical process of progression. 

What will arise from this imposed conciliation ? 
Before long the terrestrial surface will appear as a 
single vast State, in the primary conditions of 
disorganization and chaos. It is even probable that 
the Richelieu or the Cavour, who will first indicate 
the lines of order into which this general aggregate 
is to fall, is already born ; and if this must come to 
pass with violence, it will none the less come to 
pass. 

The other perspective which calls us is that of 
the individual. The man of to-day is born with a 
fabulous heritage from distant and innumerable 
sources. He cannot deny his inheritance, and it 
is his trust to administer and utilize it. Until now 
our thoughts on this matter have been half com- 
plete ; we have not seen our Europe in the pro- 
portion which it bears to the rest of human kind. 
Scarcely forty years ago Renan could write : " Pour 
un esprit philosophique il n'y a vraiment dans le 
passe" de 1'humanite que trois histoires de premier 
inte"ret : 1'histoire grecque, 1'histoire d'Israel, Phis- 
toire romaine." He lived in the same intellectual 
world known to the Ancients. To-day this would 
be impossible. The barrier has fallen. We see 
that humanity has developed on two wide levels, 
and that it has flashed into the night of history 
two great searchlights. 

The investigations of the future historian promise 
an extraordinary fruition. Each of our arts will 
be culminated by one of the arts of our newly 
discovered brothers in resemblance or dissemblance. 



INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER 11 

The product of our emotion, our minds and our 
hands will serve as matter for general comparison, 
and, one by one, strange correspondences will be 
discovered. There is not a problem, whether pro- 
found or subtle, posed and resolved on one side of 
the planet, which has not repeated itself, in essence, 
on the other side. Many of our absolute terms 
are about to become relative ; and we shall use the 
word universal with a juster sense of its content. 

In this stupendous exchange, Japan will be a 
pioneer. The last and most vigorous offspring 
of Asia, that mother of peoples, she has constituted 
herself the guardian, the advocate and the interpreter 
of her ancient ancestress. Geographically she is 
placed at the single point of intersection between 
Asia and Europe. It was essentially in Japan that 
such men of the newer culture could appear as 
Lafcadio Hearn, Hall Chamberlain, Okakura Kakuzo ; 
men who have in their thought united Asiatic to 
Occidental culture and in whom there has developed 
the consciousness of a unique humanity. If Europe 
is to continue an upward march, it will be more 
and more vitally European by this extension of 
consciousness, and we shall even see Buddhistic 
ecstasy and Confucian wisdom distilled into the 
Christian liturgy. But if Europe is to founder in 
new cataclysms, it will save from the wreck only 
what is in its present limited capacity to save ; 
and the best of our thoughts would survive as they 
are now repeated, in fine ideograms, on silken scrolls. 
From the sacred hills of Kyoto, even more than from 
those of Rome, the avenues of a new world reach 
to the infinite ; and from their summits one divines, 
as from the prow of a ship, the new horizon. 



THE JAPANESE QUALITY 




THE JAPANESE QUALITY 



HE most remarkable event of the 
years which immediately preceded 
the European War was the entrance 
of Japan into the rank of the great 
powers. We give this term, not to 
those nations which are the most 
highly civilized but to those which, 
in event of war, are most to be feared. Japan has 
proved to China, to Russia and to Germany that she 
is possessed of a redoubtable strength ; and, now 
that we recognize her power, we consent to speak 
of her otherwise than in the phrases of Loti's amused 
and slightly disdainful curiosity. M. Motono, 
former Minister of Japan in Paris, once put it with 
a penetration in which there was an element of 
sadness : " As long as we consecrated ourselves to the 
work of an intensive civilization, as long as we pro- 
duced only men of letters, men of knowledge and 
artists, you treated us as barbarians. Now that we 
have learned to kill, you call us civilized." It will 
be essential to keep in mind the lesson inherent in 
this observation ; to put on one side the formidable 
spectacle of Japan's growth in armaments, and to 
penetrate to the characteristic traits of that ancient 
and original civilization to which she lays claim, 



16 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

and which she is prepared to defend, with European 
arms, against Europe itself. 

In the first instance we must relegate to its place 
what is called, with an obvious grossness, the 
Europeanization of Japan. It is unnecessary to 
recall a fact of which we are fundamentally aware, 
though we at times disregard it that Japan did not 
await the arrival of Europeans in order to become 
civilized. In the seventh century of our era, when 
the Merovingian kings were dragged by oxen 
through the forests of Gaul, the flowering of the 
arts in Japan was equal to that in the Italy of the 
Renaissance and the refinements of living were those 
of France under Louis XV. Since this epoch there 
have never existed in Japan the same stagnation and 
inertia which overcame China. Until about the 
year 1830, no matter at what given date one com- 
pares Japan with France, the former is almost 
always relatively in advance of the latter. It is the 
most erroneous of impressions that Japan has 
traversed in thirty years the ground which it has 
taken Europe ten centuries to cover. What she 
has learned from Europe, since 1834, are the 
means of defence against the fate of Java, the 
Philippines and Indo-China. Outside of this general 
conformity to the methods of modern armaments, 
Japan owes Europe two main systems of progression : 
in the first place, railways, which, France must 
remember, date not from the time of Charlemagne 
but from that of Louis-Philippe ; and, in the second 
place, the parliamentary system, which began to 
work on a normal basis in the various Western States 
only about the same time, and which is to-day scarcely 
assured throughout Europe. As to the develop- 
ments of electricity, these date, practically in their 



THE JAPANESE QUALITY 17 

entirety, from 1870, and the Japanese followed them 
and benefited by them at exactly the same time as 
the French. 

On the arrival of the European influences, there- 
fore, Japan was less like a barbarian than like a man 
so fundamentally cultured that he is ready to absorb 
whatever of value comes to him from another world. 
It is sometimes said that Japan has assimilated the 
results of science, but neither the methods nor the 
spirit which has produced them. This is essentially 
erroneous. In physics, in chemistry, in medicine 
and in philology Japanese scholars are the equals of 
their Occidental brothers. It was a Japanese 
physician who isolated the plague bacillus, and it 
has been Japanese physicists, with their fortunate 
opportunities of studying a volcanic soil, who have 
developed to so great an extent the science of 
seismography. 

In our effort to give a further extension to the 
antiquity of our civilization, we are accustomed to 
prolong it by attaching it to the civilizations of Rome 
and of Greece. In such a postulation it is but just 
to add to the Japanese civilization the civilizations 
of ancient China and ancient India. Confucius 
and Buddha are far anterior to Socrates. Japan is 
to-day both the inheritor and the knight-errant of 
all Asiatic civilization. It was India which created 
that admirable Buddhism which has proved a 
practically inexhaustible source of art, of morality, 
and of the spirit of goodness. But Buddhism has 
long since disappeared from India, and to-day it is 
vital and fecund only in Japan. Until the sixteenth 
century, China was a constant creator of new forms 
of art and of thought. Sculpture, painting, poetry 
and philosophy emanated from China and Japan, 



1 8 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

and each manifestation of Japanese progression in 
these fields corresponds to a new wave of the Chinese 
influence. But after the invasion of the Manchus 
China sank into torpor, and to-day the ancient monu- 
ments of her art are largely in Japanese museums. 

In addition to the defence of her national inherit- 
ance, Japan is, therefore, also the guardian of the 
Indian and Chinese traditions. From the point of 
view of Mediterranean culture, it is Japan which 
synthesizes the civilization of the other half of 
humanity. Seen from this angle, her victory in the 
conflict with Russia was an indubitable necessity ; 
for in the ruins of Japan all the concentrated survival 
of ancient Asia would have perished, and a whole 
section of humanity must have fallen to dust. 

Any brief attempt to define some traits of the 
Japanese mentality must necessarily be superficial 
and incomplete. The present study is restricted 
to deal with three points : the Japanese love of 
nature, the place which they assign to art, and their 
moral education. 



No people have so keen an emotion in the face 
of nature as the Japanese. In spite of a fairly severe 
winter climate, it is with reluctance that they close 
their houses against what is for them a perpetually 
renewed spectacle of beauty. Throughout all the 
change of seasons, the Japanese removes the finely 
constructed partitions of wood and paper which 
separate him from the sky, from the flight of birds, 
and from the profound calm of his garden which 
symbolizes to him the essential Japan. In every 
room he places the tiny tree which resumes in itself 



THE JAPANESE QUALITY 19 

the spirit of forests. His cities are parks, and his 
temples are alive with flowers and with animals. 

The national fete-days are the festivals of nature. 
Take as an example the day of the fall of the first 
snow ; the banks and the shops close, and one has the 
impression that the entire population, mounted on 
their high clogs, have climbed to the hills to admire 
the white miracle of the winter. In February, when 
the plum-trees break into blossom beneath the snow, 
the people crowd around them in a fever of admira- 
tion which has the elements of a personal piety. 
The old trees, which are weary with bearing, are 
given the support of wooden crutches ; and there 
is a general participation in an act of thanks for 
the vision of flowers and the scent of perfume during 
a still inclement season. There exists towards nature 
a ritual in the face of which other duties are 
suspended. In February, 1904, the plum-trees 
flowered a few days after the declaration of war, and 
the event was not less marked than in other years. 

In April, there is a solemn celebration of the 
flowering of the cherry-trees, the most fragile of all 
blossoms. In the chances of wind or of rain, their 
life endures but three days, and for this reason the 
delicate mist of flowers inspires the most ardent 
enthusiasm. Along the length of the river at 
Tokyo, which is bordered with cherry-trees, boats 
pass and repass in a wake of petals. There are people 
who take the two days journey to Yoshino, to view 
a mountain covered with the flowers ; and others 
travel farther still, into the scarcely accessible forest, 
to catch a glimpse of the marvellous shining of a 
solitary cherry-tree amongst the pines. The peach- 
trees bloom a little later. These trees, like the 
cherry and the plum trees, are not trained to bear 



20 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

fruit. The Japanese have no use for the grafting 
which is an attempt to domesticate, and they love 
the flowers for their wildness. In summer they have 
the same devotion for the elegant wistaria and the 
frail peony ; and with the coming of autumn the 
thousand coloured chrysanthemums are greeted in 
every garden, and high on the mountains the 
devotees of nature watch the purpling of the maples. 

Autumn is the season of the most ardent of 
celebrations, that of the moon. The hours of sleep 
are changed to day-time, so that people can be free 
to follow at night the vibrant variations of moon- 
light. A Japanese journalist who recently arrived in 
Paris made, as his first comment, the observation that, 
beautiful as the city was, the houses were too high to 
permit one to see the moon ; and on the nights of 
full moon, he could only betake himself to the quais, 
astonished to be alone with so much splendour. 

It is not such a sentiment for nature but rather 
its extension to an entire people which is extra- 
ordinary. The enthusiasm penetrates to country- 
people, to coolies, and to the roughest labourers. 
A coolie was one day dragging my rickshaw through 
a snowstorm. The road was rough and the man 
was plainly exhausted ; yet he turned back to me, 
not to complain, but to draw my attention to the 
veil of snow crowning a tree. This is the oldest and 
profoundest trait of the race. While in French 
literature, until the time of Jean-Jacques, any 
recorded impression of nature is exceptional, 
Japanese poetry, ever since its farthest origin, has 
bloomed into landscapes. The almost prehistoric 
inhabitants noted the most exquisite examples of 
these impressions in short poems which were collected 
in the sixth century of our era. 



THE JAPANESE QUALITY 21 

There are some charming miniature poems of the 
twelfth and fifteenth centuries which treat of this 
passion, and which are remarkable for their extreme 
brevity. They consist of five short verses with a 
cesura after the third and in Japanese they mount 
to only thirty-one syllables. There exist even 
shorter poems, of three verses. One is constantly 
reminded of the fact that the Japanese genius shows 
in refinement and concision. 

Nocturne : 

Midnight. 

On the summit of Fuji 

The moon has paused . . . 

Only the mountain's smoke 

Can soil the sky. 
Moonrise : 

With a beating of wings 

The wild geese tear apart 

The little cloud . . . 

As they utter their cry, 

The moon ! 

The spring breeze : 

The sudden wind 

Has flung 

The tree flowers to the grass . . . 

I thought that I saw leap 

A waterfall. 

An old priest : 

In spring 

I recommence my love 
Of this illusory world . . . 
In what future star 
Shall I find such flowers ? 

The Willow : 

At the breeze's breath 
The willow's hair 
Trembles and sways . . . 
Always towards that same land 
Where dies the spring 



22 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

The Japanese poet constantly compares the snow 
to the drifting petals of the cherry ; he links it to 
his Buddhistic meditations more than once, as in 
the following : 

When in winter days 

From the sinister skies, 

The white blossoms flutter and fall, 

My heart knows that past the clouds 

A spring surely shines. 

The following is, amongst thousands, a final 
example of these brief poems : 

Night and solitude, 

The noise of the women who wash in the stream 

Becomes fitful . . . 

As they toss the white linen 

They must be watching the moon ! 

The poet does not arrogate to himself alone the 
privileges of the apprehension of beauty. On the 
same plane with him and with the profoundest 
theologian is recognized the right of the poorest 
women to celebrate the splendours of this world. 
That sense of nature which with the Occidental is a 
sentiment essentially dedicated to calm moments 
of rare manifestation is to the Japanese a perpetual 
devotion before which all else keeps silence. 



3 

That same passion of the intelligence which 
relates the Japanese to nature exists also in his senti- 
ment for art. With the French, the artists form 
an aristocracy or, if the term may be risked, a 
class. They are fundamentally distinct from the 



THE JAPANESE QUALITY 23 

bourgeois. This division has its derivation in the 
rigid requirements of technique. No people know 
better than the French that, in Occidental develop- 
ment, to become a painter, a musician or a poet is 
not a matter of improvisation. In Japan a man 
partakes naturally of the elements of the poet, the 
musician and the painter, and without reflective 
thought. He paints and writes with the same 
pencil, and sees no distinction between the two 
modes of expression. His music is without orches- 
tras, and still exists in the freedom of popular 
invention ; and his poetry, in its intrinsic simplicity 
and brevity, is essentially denuded of artifice. The 
countryman who, after the harvest, sets out on a 
pilgrimage across Japan, slings at his sash a little 
note-book for the reception of his impressions, 
whether in the form of a brief sketch or of three 
little verses. The art of art is diffused throughout 
the people ; it has saturated their country and 
impregnates their life with vitality. 

The claim has been made that the Japanese art 
has not penetrated to the distances spanned by the 
European ; and it is questionable whether it has 
expressed and exemplified the profundities of the 
human soul. But it is undeniable that it has better 
mastered the fulfilment of a social necessity, and 
that it diffuses more freely and more widely a general 
sense of joy and of beauty. 

The fundamental principle on which Japanese 
taste is based would seem to be a constant applica- 
tion of refinement and a conservation of simplicity. 
The Japanese have as instinctive a repugnance to 
multiplication as to coarseness. The arrangement of 
their houses is the finest tribute to this quality. No 
single article of furniture is permanently placed. 



24 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

The same bare room becomes a dining-room when 
the servant brings in a tiny lacquer table, and a 
bedroom when she unrolls the silken mattresses. 
Nothing has the rigidity of the stationary. A single 
place is always consecrated to contain a work of art, 
or any object of beauty ; for the delicate statuette 
is often replaced by a flowering branch, or even by 
a single shining pebble. These changes are made 
according to the varying beauties of the season, the 
fluctuating light of the different hours, to corre- 
spond with the imaginative mood of the host or the 
taste of the guest whom he hopes to receive. But 
the consecrated object radiates its influence 
throughout the house. The poorest cottage possesses 
one beautiful thing, and the richest would never 
put on exhibition more than one at a time. 

The selective sense of the Japanese has divined 
the charm of the temporary as well as the charm 
of the unique. It is distasteful to their sensitiveness 
for the inanimate to permit a work of beauty to fail 
of its audience and to become an object of indiffer- 
ence, before which one passes without either respect 
or emotion. Even in the museums, which have 
been established on the Western plan, the paintings 
are rolled in their cases, every five days, and the eye 
is refreshed by others. 

The most definite social expression of this cult of 
art is what is called the " ceremony of tea," which is 
in reality an aesthetic ritual whose rites have been 
prescribed since the fifteenth century. Five friends, 
following the canonical number, meet in the morn- 
ing, in the depths of an odorous garden, in a pavilion 
so small that it consists of only three braidings of 
straw, and made of thatch and of the simplest woods. 
An antique painting of authoritative beauty is 



THE JAPANESE QUALITY 25 

suspended on one wall ; but the company does not 
turn to it until the conversation has fallen into 
established form, and deals in the grave and the 
delicate, Then, with a preliminary examination of 
the case which has contained it and the mounting 
which supports it, each guest approaches the work 
of art ; and the phrases of their appreciation form 
the starting-point for a discussion of the arts which 
stretches into the hours. The simple repast is 
prepared by the guests themselves, in porcelains 
which are always old and exquisite, and when night 
surprises them the five pilgrims on the road to a 
finer apprehension feel that they have made a stage 
of their journey. Those who practise this ceremony 
of tea the chajin form an aristocracy of taste 
which has interpreted the acceptances and refusals 
of artistic Japan. Popular esteem ranks a famous 
chajin with a revered statesman or a great general. 
But every Japanese is essentially and eternally a 
chajin, and prides himself on his appreciation of the 
lines of a drawing or the curve of a vase. 

All the little ornaments which emanate from 
Japan and which the West puts to such absurd uses 
the lacquer, the ivory boxes, the sabre guards 
are in customary use in their country of origin. 
The tiny vase which lifts its flowery contours in a 
European Museum often comes from the kitchen of 
a peasant. Since the diffusion of culture in ancient 
Greece there has not been so rich and dissemin- 
ated a creation in the domestic arts. 

The influence of the Japanese production has been 
felt throughout the world. In the seventeenth 
century their lacquer brought new life to the form 
and design of French furniture. Those faiences of 
Kyoto which a Dutch ship carried to the West gave 



26 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

the wings of inspiration to this art at Delft and, 
later, to the same at Copenhagen. Amongst painters, 
from Whistler to Degas, and amongst print makers, 
from Riviere to Toulouse-Lautrec, those who have 
saturated themselves in the Japanese sense of line 
are easily marked. If one speaks of the influence of 
Europe in the military development of Japan, it is 
an equal justice to recognize the Japanese influence 
in the development of European culture. But the 
too facile success of the too superficial Japanese pro- 
duction has weakened our mature judgment of their 
basic art. We give its familiar and more ephemeral 
examples too important a place, in the fashion of 
that historian of Greek art who was so absorbed in 
talking of the Tanagra that he forgot the Parthenon. 
We are only academically aware that Japan has 
formed, produced and perpetuated a great school 
of sculpture and a great school of painting and that, 
almost without exception, the perfected examples of 
both arts are still in Japan. 

The school of sculpture of Nara and the school of 
the Kano landscapes have taken categoric rank with 
the schools of Florentine sculpture and of Dutch 
landscapes ; but in the future there will be a more 
general consciousness that they are part of the 
artistic patrimony of all races. In spite of predic- 
tions to the contrary, no decadence in Japanese art 
can be signalized. It seems to enclose the germ of 
an eternal rebirth, due to the perpetuity of an 
aristocracy of taste and to the extension of this taste 
to the public at large. A police officer, whose salary 
was perhaps twelve hundred yen a year, has been 
known to pay a hundred yen for a cup which passed 
his criticism and pleased his fancy. As long as such 
dissemination of good judgment exists amongst a 



THE JAPANESE QUALITY 27 

people, there will arise artists worthy to satisfy the 
demands made of them. 



The link between moral and religious life is par- 
ticularly strong in Japan, and the form of one is 
infused with the vitality of the other. Japan, even 
more strikingly than Italy, is the country of astonish- 
ing confirmations and particularly in matters of 
belief. 

The curious anomaly created by the survival of 
Shintoism has produced a situation which would be 
paralleled only if ancient Celtic forms of faith had 
kept pace with Christianity and if to-day, in addition 
to the priest of the popular theocracy, there was 
included a Druid in his white robes, surrounded 
with that same mystical potency which hangs about 
the traditional cutting of the mistletoe at New Year, 
with a golden sickle ; above all if, conjointly with these 
two hierarchies and acceptable to them both, there 
existed a rationalistic philosophy. Shintoism stands 
in the position which would in that case be occupied 
by the Druidic faith, the equivalent of Buddhism 
would be Christianity, and the rationalistic thought 
would be Confucian philosophy. 

Shintoism has as its basic postulation the tenet 
that Japan is the chosen country of the gods, and 
that the Japanese, as descendants of the goddess 
Amaterasu, are by this privilege immune from the 
need of any moral code other than their own. There 
exists, therefore, very little sense of that personal 
responsibility which springs from the doctrines of a 
more intensive morality. The consequent belief is 
that the Japanese need only give free rein to their 



28 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

innate impulses, and let speak in themselves the 
generosities of nature, of honour and of patriotism 
which are the hereditary instincts of so noble a race. 
A Japanese believing himself a descendant of the 
gods, and with credence in the possibility that, at 
his death, he himself may become a half-deity, has 
little use for the restrictive fears of the usual man ; 
the pride of his birth inspires all his actions and is 
sufficient in all circumstances. 

The Emperor is the nearest link with this divine 
inheritance. This cult for the Emperor is more 
fundamental than any attachment of the subject 
to the sovereign ; indeed, for many centuries the 
Emperor completely lacked political authority. It 
may be called the cult of Japan personified. When 
the bulletin of a victory states that the armies have 
triumphed, because of the inherent virtue of the 
sovereign, the allusion is not alone to the reigning 
Emperor, but to the perpetual and perpetuated 
Emperor ; that is, to this eternally personified 
expression of the genius of the nation. 

One is struck by the fact that although there is 
scarcely any conscious idea of sin in the Japanese 
mentality, and no law exists to deal with polygamy, 
adultery or divorce, the habits of the people are 
essentially moral and the family life is constituted 
on a basis of solidity. The supposition that Japan 
is dissolute is the falsest of fictions. The superficial 
observers who leap to this conclusion have been taken 
unaware by the atmosphere of joy and of sensitive- 
ness to beauty which reigns throughout the country. 
The elaborate courtesy of the men and the fine smile 
of the women have surprised them into inaccuracies 
of judgment, and they have believed themselves to 
be in conditions related to those of Tahiti. French 



THE JAPANESE QUALITY 29 

travellers have been especially apt to commit this 
particular error, since with them all literature of 
travel carries a tradition of libertinism. The French 
language has a regrettable tendency to give to alien 
terms, as well as to alien impressions, the implication 
of a gallant meaning. For example, the ordinary 
Turkish words seraglio and harem, the first signify- 
ing a palace and the second corresponding to the 
English word home, have assumed in French a 
special sense. In the same way the Japanese terms 
mousme and geisha have come to represent, in 
French, women constituted and trained for the 
relation of the sexes, whose chastity is not on the 
defensive. The mousme is quite simply the 
daughter of the household, the eldest sister. The 
geisha are women who can be compared only to 
vivified objects of art, and whose sole role is to be 
lovely and charming. They exemplify the grace of 
Japan, as the Japanese officers express the spirit of 
the national honour. The most beautiful stuffs are 
woven for their robes and their sashes, and the finest 
of jewels and of lacquer are for their use. They are 
actresses without a stage, who are sought for their 
beauty and their wit, their talent of musician- 
poetesses, and the play of their imagination ; and, 
if they have their loves and their caprices, they are 
far from being venial. A Japanese in exile regrets a 
geisha as one of the living images of his country. 
Something of their origin as Shintoist priestesses 
persists in them, and they symbolize that delicate and 
noble epicureanism which is the moral of Japan. 

The Buddhism of Japan an alien religion has 
softened the intrinsic egoism of this epicureanism. 
The metaphysics of this faith are profound, its morals 
are ascetic and sublime, and its doctrine is one of 



30 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

renunciation and of a universal goodness. Its posi- 
tive action is comparable to that of Christianity or 
to that of the epicureanism of antiquity. But 
Buddhism has never been a faith which permitted 
persecutions, and it has allowed pagan temples to 
sleep in their ancient peace. It has concentrated its 
force in converting to its doctrines the most sensitive, 
the most highly-developed and the most disen- 
chanted minds. These it has led to a moral per- 
fection by the passion it instils for artistic perfection, 
since art presupposes in the first degree renunciation 
and concentration on one's inner development ; 
and, according to the laws of Japanese Buddhism, 
the experienced man who comes to its temples to 
find peace must become an artist before he can be 
a saint. The influence of Buddhism is waning to- 
day, but for twelve centuries it was a school of 
idealism. It formed great spirits, tortured by the 
nostalgia of the infinite, and on the other hand 
saints so tender and so saturated with peace that 
they are comparable to our Francis of Assisi. 
Scarcely an Eastern art has not emanated from it ; 
scarcely any activity of Eastern life has escaped its 
transforming touch. It has penetrated vast masses 
of people by the sense of mystery, by a silent good- 
ness, and a belief in the mystic solidarity of souls ; all 
that transcends reason and which the heart divines. 
The virility of the Japanese nature has emanated 
from Confucianism. Since the gradual subsidence 
of the influences of Buddhism, those of Confucianism 
have made a more and more penetrative progress. 
Confucianism is a philosophy, and above all a system- 
atized morality, whose principles, borrowed from 
the Chinese classics, have been adapted by the 
Japanese to the particularities of their character. 



THE JAPANESE QUALITY 31 

Its principal tenet deals with the principles of honour, 
or, to speak more exactly, the morality of deport- 
ment. From their earliest school days, children are 
taught what is called in Japanese the art of managing 
the body, which embraces everything from cleanli- 
ness to self-mastery. They learn, and they learn as 
an art, to control their tears, their anger and their 
fear. They are given an heroic education which is 
without concession or attenuation. The rarest 
courage is presented to them as a simple necessity 
of propriety. A physician never hides from a 
patient the gravity of his condition : it would be 
an insult to expose him to the failure of a ceremonious 
propriety in the face of death. At the beginning of 
the war with Russia I was frequently enabled to 
observe the departure of troops from small wayside 
stations. The function never varied. The geisha 
of the village, in their loveliest robes and most 
elaborate head-dresses, gathered to offer the soldiers 
a last cup of tea ; they passed through the ranks 
smiling and bending in salutation. The priests 
distributed their amulets, to the lightest sound of 
laughter, which seemed to indicate that if these little 
objects could do no good at least they did not harm. 
Finally, with the approach of the parents and wives, 
came the instant when the men seemed most fully 
aware that they were going on their way to a desired 
death. In Japan people neither embrace nor shake 
hands ; their expression was therefore limited to 
two inclinations, two long looks, and two smiles. 
It was impossible to detect a cry or a tear. One 
divined that the pain was none the less penetrative, 
but that it was a law scrupulously to repress it until 
privacy was reached. It is a Japanese proverb that 
the pillow alone shall know one's tears. 



32 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

In a country where the values are so nicely 
balanced, people need a tempered fineness, a stoicism 
and a steadiness of bearing to escape dissolution of 
character. This hard discipline, which is not in- 
spired by nature but inculcated by education, gives 
Japan its moral tone, and in the face of danger what 
is called in Japanese national unanimity. It is an 
astonishing fact that among this nation of epicureans 
there are no anarchists, no dilettanti and no idlers. 
Artisan and artist are equally faithful to their work 
and, when need arises, to their national duty. In 
the flash of an instant the nation can become a 
unanimous whole and one Japanese indistinguishable 
from another. 

At the beginning of the war with China the 
Emperor left his palace and went to live in a cottage, 
to range himself with the humblest of his subjects. 
The gravity with which each Japanese lives his 
personal life is equally applicable to his part in the 
collective effort, and is a form of his consecration 
to deportment. Here is evidenced the miracle of 
Japan : an artistic sensibility which is so highly 
refined united to an immutable military discipline ; 
an island of poets which is the most unified nation 
of to-day. 



THE LYRIC EPIGRAMS OF JAPAN 




THE LYRIC EPIGRAMS OF JAPAN 



HAIKAI is a Japanese poem in three 
verses, or a phrase in three short 
members, the first of five syllables, 
the second of seven and the third of 
five : seventeen syllables in all. It 
is of the most elementary poetic 
construction ; indeed, it is a ques- 
tion whether one can venture to define as poetry 
a stanza of three verses, in which there is no regard 
for rhyme, for quantities or for accentuation, and 
where even the number of syllables admits some 
licence. A haikai can be compared neither to a 
Greek nor Latin distich, nor to a French quatrain. 
It is neither a " thought," nor a " word," nor a 
proverb ; an epigram in neither the modern sense 
nor in the antique, which is rather an inscription. 
It is the simplest picture, in three movements of 
the brush, a sketch which is a brief touch or impres- 
sion. The abstract is entirely deleted. Its syntax 
is elliptical to excess. With three rapid notations, 
a landscape or the vision of a scene is composed. 
All the poetic effort is bent on the choice of those 
three suggestive sensations which must give birth 
to a train of others. 

In his study of the haikai, Mr. Basil Hall Chamber- 

35 



36 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

lain * calls them " the lyric epigrams of Japan." This 
title defines two of their essential qualities brevity 
and the power of suggestion. The lyric epigram 
has scarcely any analogy in Occidental poetry. It 
is a perfect exemplary of the Japanese spirit ; its 
terseness holds even in the realms of emotion and 
ideality. It discloses what is the most intimate trait 
of their nature and their most inveterate tendency : 
the instinct of concentration. 

The lyric epigram is one of the accepted forms 
of Japanese art ; it carries the general character of 
all Japanese expression in a simplification so rigorous 
that it is audacious. One can compare a haikai to a 
Japanese sketch which encloses, in a few precise 
strokes, either the subtlest details of a human 
chronicle or the spaces of an infinite landscape. In 
the first instance the pencil has traced words, and 
in the second visual traits ; but the eye has seen the 
same vision. In the course of a trip through Japan, 
I had as companion a young painter who noted 
alternately, in a sketch and in a haikai, the impres- 
sions of our journey. 

Both poetry and painting one frequently a 
translation of the other have had the same evolu- 
tion. The haikai, whose origin is as remote as the 
end of the fifteenth century and whose greatest 
vogue was in the seventeenth and eighteenth cen- 
turies, developed contemporaneously with the 

* B. H. Chamberlain, " Basho and the Japanese Poetical 
Epigram," in Transactions of the Asiatic Society of Japan, Vol. 
XXX, Part II. 

I have borrowed from Mr. Chamberlain some historical notes 
on Basho and some of the most charming of the examples he 
quotes. I desire also to acknowledge my debt to the erudition of 
my friend M. C.-E. Maitre, who gives a substantial notice on the 
haikai in the Bulletin de FEcole franf aise d* Extreme-Orient. 



THE LYRIC EPIGRAMS OF JAPAN 37 

popular school of painting, Ukyoe. Their name 
signifies comic, vulgar, popular. It is not their con- 
cision which distinguishes them from the uta or 
classic poems. A uta, indeed, has only thirty-one 
syllables ; its form is that of a haikai to which two 
verses of seven syllables have been added. The line 
of demarcation between the two is rather in the 
choice of subject. The classic poetry of the uta 
corresponds to the classic painting of the School of 
Kano. There is the same nobility of inspiration, 
the same refinement of form, and the same tradi- 
tional treatment of flowering cherries, of reddened 
maples, of the October moon, of the austere Chinese 
landscapes and of all the subtle inspirational subjects 
of Chinese poetry. They had the same public : 
the courts of the Emperor and Regent, the prin- 
cesses, the great nobles with a taste for letters, and 
the prelates with a taste for aesthetics. The haikai 
represent realistic painting. No subject is for- 
bidden to them ; all the aspects of Japan meet in 
them and all Japanese life can seethe in their brief 
compass. No object is so fantastic and no action 
so ordinary that it cannot inspire a haikai. A word 
of slang or a foreign twist to language often gives 
them their savour. It is a form of expression which 
is without crippling restrictions, and it is essentially 
the poetry of the class not privileged to wear two 
sabres. 

At that epoch when their beauty was at its height, 
the haikai were composed by mystical priests like 
Basho, revolutionary painters like Buson, and 
naturalistic romancers like Saikaku, by philosophers 
baying at the moon, by pilgrims who dreamed in the 
starlight, by all that vagabond company which 
treads the footpaths of Japan. It was this strange 



38 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

admixture of men, sometimes rascals but always 
artists, who undertook to reduce all their experience 
to scraps of poetry. 

Until to-day the uta and the haikai have followed 
parallel ways. A general and a university professor 
will write in the uta form. They retouch a syllable 
or two of an ancient poem, as a Kyoto painter 
imitates, with imperceptible changes, a painting of 
Motonobu or Okyo. It is the journalists who write 
the haikai. The war with Russia brought forth 
hundreds of them, in the same way in which it gave 
subjects of popular interest to the artists. 

A mind entirely consecrated to the notation of 
delicate differences would give, in Japan, only a 
brief consideration to these haikai, just as a real 
chajin would glance only cursorily at the work of 
Hokusai and Hiroshige. But the realistic art of 
Japan essentially appeals to a quality in the European 
intelligence. To appreciate a uta it is necessary 
to have both the Chinese and the Japanese classic 
education. A haikai, on the contrary, even in its 
translated form instantly strikes us. It resumes a 
vision, directly addressed to the eye ; it is a rapid 
impression which may awaken some sleeping sensa- 
tion. Its complete import is doubtless lost for any 
but a Japanese, and we cannot perceive its delicate 
resonances. But across the foreign words some 
drift of meaning comes to us, like the sound of a 
cithar from behind a screen or the scent, through a 
fog, of plum-trees in flower. 



The diversity of the haikai is best shown by a 
division of their subjects into three groups : those 



THE LYRIC EPIGRAMS OF JAPAN 39 

which deal with animals, trees and flowers, those 
which deal with landscape, and finally those treating 
of a characteristic scene, the significance of a moment 
or the hidden sense of an action. 

The power to create at a stroke a visual picture of 
the life of an animal is the least contested talent of 
the Japanese. Their marvellous penetration of 
the animal world is universally recognized. They 
have the qualities essential to deal in it a patience 
which derives and combines, a rapidity of glance 
which simplifies, and an intelligence which instinc- 
tively animates with life the object seen. Their 
kakemono, their silks, and even their household 
utensils are ornamented with cranes, with wild 
geese, with deer, with monkeys and with carp, 
painted with a sense of freshness and a fidelity to 
life which Pisanello alone is capable of recalling. 
The makers of the haikai vied in this field with the 
painters. Their sketches in words would have 
delighted Jules Renard. As examples, we have the 
white heron in its dreamy immobility : 

Save for his thin voice 
The motionless heron 
Is but a drift of snow. 

Sokan, 1465-1554. 

Sometimes the movement alone is preserved : 

A long line of wild geese 
Against the lonely peak, 
In the moonlight. 
Buson. 

Or the butterfly : 

A fallen petal 
Rises to its branch : 
Ah, a butterfly ! 

Arakida Moritake, 1472-1549. 



40 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

The last example is typical. A brief astonish- 
ment is the definition of the essence of the haikai. 
A delicate shock is its method of impression. The 
sudden and the unexpected are the fundamental 
bases of its treatment. The three little verses seem 
composed to define a visual surprise. For example, 
this little scene is that which meets a traveller when, 
in the freshness of earliest morning, he approaches 
a Buddhist temple, at the same moment when the 
priest, still half asleep, strikes the bronze bell with 
his huge hammer : 

A mountain temple . . . 
The bell, at daybreak, 
Scatters afar the crows ! 

Yokoi Yayu, 1702-1783. 

And one's eye follows to the farthest distance the 
flight of the birds. 

To the Japanese a sketch of an animal neces- 
sarily evokes more than it does for us. Whether 
Buddhist or Shintoist, he believes himself to be 
created of the same essence as beasts. The mind 
of the Japanese poet has an almost childish in- 
genuousness which puts him on a par with the direct 
action of the animal world. Not that he for a 
moment attempts to liken it to the human world ; 
he tries, on the contrary, to penetrate these rudi- 
mentary beings with a regard for the integrity of their 
minute dreaming souls, whether they show them- 
selves ill-natured, ardent, or vindictive, and with 
the understanding that they are always puerile. The 
form of the lyric epigram, which would be almost 
absurdly terse for an expression of human psych- 
ology, seems to him perfectly adjusted to define an 
action of the animal consciousness. He regrets, 
with a vivid intensity, the limitations of his instinct 



THE LYRIC EPIGRAMS OF JAPAN 41 

which rob him of the capacity to feel the little 
flame of desire burning in the butterfly : 

The flowery dream 

Of the butterfly, I seize it ... 

But it is gone. 

Reikan. 

A Chinese philosopher had written a treatise on 
this " flowery dream " of the butterfly ; and in the 
margin the poet put this haikai as a commentary, 
half touching and half satirical, on the attempt to 
dogmatize beauty. 

He divines with no less sensitiveness the dream 
of the wandering trout, of the swallow who never 
ceases his flight, of the inquisitive sparrow, of the 
placid buffalo and the wild boar's stupid appetite 
for plunder. He has neither disdain nor indifference 
for any member of the animal kingdom. Their 
small desires and their monotonous hopes interest 
him. He turns most naturally to those whose 
incipient consciousness seems to him suffering or 
touched by nostalgia : to the apes shivering in the 
winter rain, the deer which cries out to an invisible 
mate, to the new-born mice, searching for the pro- 
tection of their parents, and to the fire-flies with 
light in the heart of their tiny bodies. Insects, 
above all, appeal to him, such infinitely little 
creatures and so nearly invisible that he knows of 
them only the thin sound of their voices through the 
dark ; yet a sound of such vastness that it seems to 
him the voice of the earth itself. 

The vegetable world is painted with the same 
sureness of observation as the animal, the same gift 
of infusing life, the same delicate tenderness. The 
Japanese imagination seems to glide from one to 
the other, in a like effusion. 



42 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

A tree becomes a living being, of a felt and recog- 
nized charm. The willow flings out its soul 
through the spring mists in the sensitive swaying 
of its fringes. The cedar lifts itself in a tranquillity 
full of force ; the hollow camphor is racked by an 
ugly secret, and the bamboo is as slim and fine as 
a geisha of Kyoto. Each tree has, to the Japanese 
perception, its favourite seasons and haunts. Winter 
rejoices the black pines, rising from stretches of 
silver slopes, and autumn strikes into life, in the 
valleys, the glory of maples and the gold of the 
icho. 

Certain flowers, which seem to have the subtle- 
ties of a secret feeling, draw and hold the Japanese 
poet's attention. Basho is a little disdainful of 
the crude magnificence of the chrysanthemum, 
which seems to him as inanimate as porcelain. He 
prefers the high-bred orchid to the camellia, and 
paints still more feelingly the hedge flowers in their 
frail beauty. In them he feels the nascent soul 
which inspires his own emotion. The hill-side 
flowers seem to him to open to the passion of the 
wind as he opens his own heart ; the thistles and 
the cumin quiver under the first breath of autumn 
more sensitively than he, and the violets keep silent 
in themselves all the fever of spring. 

A Japanese is accustomed to place a flower in his 
room not as an ornament but as a companion. 
Many of the lyric epigrams play on this refinement 
of taste. The poppy is even frailer than a sick 
child : 

Alone, in the room 
Where no soul exists, 
A tall white poppy. 

Buson. 



THE LYRIC EPIGRAMS OF JAPAN 43 

The lily is as capricious and impressionable as a 
young girl : 

The evening's cold 
Touches the pallid lily's skin 
Before it touches me. 

Isshu. 

Buddhism has exalted in the Japanese that sym- 
pathy for everything animate which is natural, it 
seems, to the various Asiatic peoples. The haijin, 
or makers of haikai, were for the most part priests 
who practised both their cult and their art in a wide 
range of human contact. They formed a third 
order of poetical Buddhism. A universal pity was 
the first article of their rule. It was a necessary 
result of their tradition and training that, into the 
light silhouettes of thought which they so freely 
sketched, there should creep something deeper than 
an amused curiosity. Their thin brushes express, 
at a stroke and spontaneously, a little of the vast 
Buddhist tenderness. 

Absorbed in his passionately exact measurement 
of the suggestive power of every word, the adept 
haijin has known how to profit by the particular 
train of thought which certain names awaken in 
the Japanese. He cites the cherry blossom, and his 
reader instinctively evokes the superb and fragile 
honour of the Samurai ; the lotus rises to the surface 
of thought like the mirages of Amida and with the 
misty presentiment of future worlds. The pine 
brings to mind the dignity and magnificence of age 
and awakens a longing for longevity; and in a 
haikai like that of Nishiyama Soin : 

Between the hedges of two gardens 
Floating, swaying, floating, 
A willow . . . 



44 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

the Japanese instinctively translates the verse into 
the troubled vision of a woman vibrating between 
two loves. 

This sense of symbolic value carries to the Japanese 
consciousness a concomitant drama. The sudden 
apparition of a blossom strikes light from the 
greyness of reality, as in the following : 

Blind with memories 

I mounted to the ruins : 

And all was eglantines in flower. 

This is the essence of the haikai : a rapid touch, 
laid lightly on the senses ; a pure high note, which 
creates in us, as it reverberates and dies, its own 
harmonies. 



The three quick glimpses which make the vision 
of the haikai can evoke for us the breadth of a land- 
scape even more exactly than they can particularize 
the fine fabric of detail. Their brevity is compact 
with so much force that it expresses the immense 
more readily than it does the miniature. They 
carry the resonance of a vibration which indefinitely 
enlarges itself. Indeed the haikai are above all 
notable for the vastness of their interpretation of 
nature. The term " picture " fails to compass 
their extent ; they are rather drops of the essence 
of poetry, each of which mirrors the whole of Japan. 

Sometimes these haikai assemble the quick nota- 
tions of a traveller : 

A mountain cottage, 

And by the well 

A plum-tree flowering. 

Kikwan. 



THE LYRIC EPIGRAMS OF JAPAN 45 

In the trembling sunlight, 
In golden grain, 
A water-mill. 

Buson. 

At times the notation is even briefer : 

A boat and its net 
Fade into shadow. 
Evening's freshness. 

Buson. 
Suddenly, 
In the autumn sky, 
Mount Fuji ! 

Onitsura, 1661-1738. 

The haijin have always tasted all the salience of 
their native land. While the classic poets entwined 
their dreams about China and admired in Japan 
only a limited number of landscapes so famous that 
they were consecrated by general appreciation and 
thus corresponded to the canon of Chinese perfec- 
tion, the rougher makers of the haikai loved the 
soil in all the sharp characterization of its pecu- 
liarities. Their thought scaled the mountainous 
islands whose relief is so accentuated and so original 
and the edges of which, in the finest mists, dissolve 
into the sea with no less harmony than that with 
which spring dissolves into summer. " Too de- 
licious a country," as Kipling has said, " to be soiled 
by a pen." The haikai is, perhaps, the only touch 
light and fragmentary enough to express it. 

With their parasols of straw, swinging their bells 
at the top of which tinkled two bronze rings, their 
robes tucked up and the baskets containing their 
tiny braziers slung on their backs, the haijin were 
always afoot on their aesthetic pilgrimages. They 
experienced all the marvels and adventures of ancient 



46 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

Japan, which one recreates from the albums of 
Hokusai the Tokaido or the One Hundred Views of 
Fuji from the old account of Kaempfer or, better 
still, from the passionate austerity of the letters of 
St. Francis Xavier. They caught the water of 
countless torrents in their tiny cups ; they lay at 
night in the open fields and fell in with the tur- 
bulent processions which followed the daimyos. 
Since they had nothing to lose, they had frank and 
easy intercourse even with ruffians and at times they 
made poets out of thieves. As they carried no arms, 
they were not stopped at the barriers of Hakone. 
When they approached the famous temples, they 
hung their well-worn sandals on a tree as a votive 
offering; and, packed in the swaying crowd of 
pilgrims, they listened in absorption to the local 
saintly legend, droned in the nasal voice of the 
beadle. In an access of devotion they plunged into 
the pond of Fudo, tossed a stone to the knees of the 
statue of Jiso, patron saint of travellers, and, in 
intention of humility, rubbed devoutly the shoulder 
of the unfaithful Disciple. Above all they had a 
sense of splendid indignation when they saw the 
profanation of neglect in those places which history 
had made sacred, as in the following : 

Behold the tomb 

Of the hero Kaneshira : 

Now only pale green rice ! 

Kikwan. 

April found them entranced before the cherry- 
trees of Yoshino, and June knee-deep in the poppies 
of Hasedera. In these effulgent months they steadily 
drained their gourds of sake, and with their cheeks 
burning they often fell asleep amongst the flowers. 
Most frequently they made their journeys alone, 



THE LYRIC EPIGRAMS OF JAPAN 47 

with a sense of the calm security of the open fields ; 
but they loved to haunt the foreign markets and 
listen to the murmur of gossip which rose up with 
each dawn. 

They traversed little villages in the golden dust 
of thrashed wheat. When they lifted their eyes to 
find kites in the sky they knew that a city was near ; 
their fatigue fell from them and their steps hastened 
with the hope of rest : 

Joy! 

I approach Nara, 

And I laugh at the rain. 

Shorio. 

In winter they sought their shelter from house to 

house : 

All doors are closed, 
The length of the street, 
To the lantern and the snow. 

They knew the gross surprises of the life of the 
wayside inn and the intimate charm of accidental 
hospitality ; and they paid their host by reading to 
him a set of poems, or made for him a little epigram 
of farewell. Then once more they took the road, 
almost always on foot, against wind and rain and 
under the snow and the flame of the dog-days, the 
doors of their senses thrown open and their spirits 
full of the brief flash of that haikai which they would 
carve on a hill-side rock or tie, with a thread of silk, 
to a flowering branch. 

It was instinctive with the haijin to try to fix his 
impression of a brief spectacle, and he did it with the 
eye of a painter, as in the following : 

What commotion ! . . . 

Under the sudden shower, 

The sails swing towards us and away ! 



48 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

A scene frequently owes the savour of its charm to 
a single detail : 

Pilgrims on the road . . . 
Their bells swing 
Above the harvest. 

Isshu. 

This type of haikai is purely pictorial ; it even ex- 
presses a kind of visible humour. Properly speaking, 
a haikai cannot be witty because it is devoid of 
reflection or comment. Its resumption is entirely 
visual. 

We always feel behind this vision the personality, 
so to speak, of a particular eye. Through the charm 
of the detail noted there penetrates that special 
quality which appealed to a special appreciation in 
the author. The three touches of verse are alive 
with the selective intention which brought them 
together. They inevitably betray the sentiment, 
whether frivolous or serious, which animated their 
composer and show the genesis of an emotion, 
whether grave or fine, which has all the personality 
of a definite individual and of a definite instant. 
In this sense, a haikai is an equal definition of a state 
of mind and a state of soul. It is thus that it reveals 
to us all Japan, the delicate fall of its rains and the 
variations of its skies, the rich mixture of its verdure, 
the arched bridges bright with the colours of a 
crowd, the villages sunk to the knees in harvest, the 
sacred forests dim with the diffusion of a spiritual 
light, the tiny temples of the country-side where, 
behind an open screen, a worm-eaten statue of the 
god smiles in the shadow, the peaks and the sea 
all that goes into the fabric of that landscape which 
seems made of a living silk, embroidered with 



THE LYRIC EPIGRAMS OF JAPAN 49 

fringed and snow-crowned islands. But it also 
reveals to us in perfection a racial genius which is 
unique, a completely original sentiment for nature, 
and the drift of the dreams of a people whose 
receptivity invariably takes the form of art. 

We are perpetually struck by the Japanese taste 
for a country-side seen under snow or under moon- 
light. It is possible to explain this tendency by 
reasons entirely connected with the pictural sense. 
Snow at once simplifies masses and places them in 
proper relation. It prepares the contexts and con- 
trasts of the painter by throwing certain objects into 
the foreground and softening the accents of others. 

Moonlight is no less important in establishing the 
plane of values. It enwraps verdure, it touches 
with a silent mystery the tops of sleeping houses, 
and it rests on a tree in flower with the light of 
death. Its luminousness has the highest force and 
intensity of concentration. But there are addi- 
tional reasons for the haijin's ardour for the vibrant 
tremulousness of moonlight and the frail mirages 
of the snow. It is instinctive with him, the more 
his powers of appreciation are educated and special- 
ized, to have his admiration warm to emotion. 
The exquisite monotony of a snowy country-side 
and the poignancy of diffused moonlight penetrate 
him, without complexity and reaction, and soften 
all his thought. It is in these simpler manifesta- 
tions of beauty that nature seems most clearly in 
unison with him. The frozen landscape touches 
him with a peculiar intimacy : 

Long, long, 

The lonely line of a river 

In a land covered with snow. 

School of Basho. 



So JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

The omnipresent beauty of the moon is in these two 
little nocturnes : 

A rainy night, 

And everywhere, on everything, 

A pale luminance. 

Etsujin. 

In the long summer rains, 
One night, furtively, 
The moon in the pines. 

Ridta, 1719-1789. 

The fairy-like fineness of these spectacles seems to 
Mm a largess for rich and poor alike : 

The grey villages, 
Without gold or flowers, 
To-night have the moon. 

Saikaku, 1641-1693. 

Both snow and moon are universal to him, and 
carry some of the quality of eternity. 

We touch, at this point, a vital characteristic of 
this special atavism. The most distinguished and 
distinguishing emotion, to a Japanese, is not joy 
but a delicate pain, refined and spiritualized by the 
poetic apprehension. This is, perhaps, another 
result of Buddhism, which enjoins a faith and a 
charity without hope, which knows no Church 
triumphant, and which puts sorrow into its para- 
dise. The old poem of the uta expresses to satiety 
the charms of melancholy. It analyses the par- 
ticular moment when the cry of pines in the wind 
is most despairing ; it feels love most keenly in suf- 
fering and sees the face of nature in its greatest 
beauty through tears. 

Though less exclusively dedicated to this attitude, 
the trend of the haikai is in the same direction. 
Landscapes of gaiety are rarely noted ; one of the 



THE LYRIC EPIGRAMS OF JAPAN 51 

few of Ransetsu carries some of the light movement 
of a holiday : 

A cold clear New Year's Day, 
A cold clear sky, and the 
Chattering sparrows. 

It is on a grey canvas that the memories of the haikai 
detach themselves most richly and that their ex- 
pression of fugitive sensation attains the poignancy 
of perfection : 

The sharp breath of autumn, 
A lantern flashes afar . . . 
Dusk. 

Buson. 

Stillness ! Through 
The rainy midnight, 
The sound of a bell. . . . 

Kikaku. 

Amongst the scattered pines, 
Lighting, dying, lighting, 
The fire-flies. 

Hakuyu. 

A graveyard, 

And here, and there, 

The fire-flies of autumn. 

School of Kikaku. 

Between the three little lines one feels the 
implacable cold of death. The haikai convey, in an 
instantaneous flash, the impression of the flight of 
time. More sensible than we to the brevity of 
human existence, the Japanese note the imperceptible 
stages of its passage. They instinctively fix and 
embalm the memory of an instant : 

Flame beneath the ashes, 
A house beneath the snow. 
Midnight. 

Buson. 



52 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

They watch the slow rotation of natural phenomena, 
with a sense of differences in the different hours 
which is vivid to the point of lending each a per- 
sonal quality. They know the hour of the bind- 
weed, six o'clock in the morning, when the corolla 
of the opening world is steeped in freshness ; midday 
is to them the hour of the greatest beauty of the 
ivy, when even the dark leaves shine with the sun's 
radiation ; dusk the hour of most delicate sen- 
sitiveness, when we are open to the touch of any 
impression : 

Hour of velvet soft-winged bats . . . 
The soft-eyed maid 
Throws me a velvet glance. 

Buson. 

Above all they know that pale hour which has a 
special name in their language, and when, before 
the sun has risen, the moon has not yet died. They 
follow the light changes of atmosphere no less than 
they follow the succession of the seasons. The 
sense of sequences runs throughout their thought 
and illustrates their profoundly rooted continuities. 
Their vignettes are thus not only notations but 
definitions of a state of mind. Each scene has a 
significance. All the movements of nature become 
human gestures and her total immobility measures 
itself against the fugacity of the individual life. 
The discontinuities of experience conform at last 
to the certain rhythm of the great metamorphoses, 
and the waves of accident scatter into foam against 
the inflexibility of eternal order. 



THE LYRIC EPIGRAMS OF JAPAN 53 



To the haijin, as well as to the painter, landscape 
is the supreme inspiration. Human incidence in 
the haikai is a light diversion and the poet never 
accords the individual case, no matter how striking 
or how distinguished in its manifestation, the same 
artistic value which he gives to a sketch from nature. 

In the sixteenth century, Matahei, who was 
entrusted with the decoration of the palace of 
Nagoya, made a new departure when he covered 
the fine screens of the interior with human figures. 
He divided his vast landscape into sections, alive 
with illustrations of personal activity. The life of 
the period flows richly and actually across the folds ; 
the stir of colour and the long rhythm of the move- 
ment are those of a Japanese Watteau. The detail 
is precise, the costumes exact in all their beauty and 
the gestures never fail to be salient. Public taste 
was surfeited with the sombre and magnificent 
refinement of the Ashikaga, in its Japanese reflection 
of the Sung period. The popular eye was beginning 
to find the Sesshu landscapes thin, in their unity of 
tone and their attempt still further to simplify an 
extreme simplicity. A new wave of Chinese in- 
fluence had broken and passed. The sumptuous 
Ming, with its golden embroideries, its peacocks 
and rare flowers, its rivers of goldsmith's work and 
its dedication to magnificence of colour, was the 
fitting expression of the passion for luxury of the 
epoch of Hideyoshi. Into the splendours of this 
romanticism, Matahei, in his art, infused realistic 
expression. The battle of artistic formulae was as 
ardent in the Japan of the sixteenth as in France of 



54 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

the nineteenth century. There emerged from it 
the Ukyoe, that school of a vivid realism, whose 
glory, though it is contested in Japan itself, has been 
proclaimed in our time by Europe and by America. 
About the same period the haijin slipped into 
their collections, between their notes on the scent 
of a flower and the tenuous mists of the autumn 
moon, some slight sketches of men and of women. 
But the courage to produce this type of work did 
not come to them until later. In the seventeenth 
century, which is their golden age, they are still 
essentially inspired by landscape and by animal life. 
In the eighteenth century the haikai become more 
frequently miniatures of human personality. Entire 
collections are consecrated to this theme. Their 
scenes change to those of life in the country inn and 
in the artist's workshop, in the theatre and in the 
sacristy, in the towns and the villages, and all the 
human comedy is resumed in the flash of rapid 
gestures. The haijin developed a particular subject 
until he made of it his specialty. One would excel 
in noting the eccentricities of country folk, another 
in depicting courtesans ; some drew, in their pig- 
ment of words, only women, as Haronobu or Koryu- 
sai drew only women in their prints. Prints and 
poems flow together in the unity of their artistic 
apprehension. It is difficult to dissociate the 
following from its visual expression : 

Her saucepan in her hand, 
She runs across the little bridge 
Through the snow. 

Buson. 

Or in this apparition of the young girl awaiting her 
lover in an autumn garden : 



THE LYRIC EPIGRAMS OF JAPAN 55 

The steps of him I wait, 
How far they sound . . . faint 
Upon the fallen leaves ! 

Buson. 

We see also in actuality the wood-cutter's wife, 
carrying on her head the bundle of sticks to which 
she has added, for her sense of beauty, some scarlet 
leaves ; the young wife, with her head weighted by 
her heavy hair and her long neck of old ivory. Each 
one only passes and has time to make only a single 
gesture. It is the extreme use of the vital instant 
or the evocative attitude, as in the following, of 
Kikin, when we get the concentrated force of the 
turbulence in a young girl's heart : 

" 'Tis summer has made me thin and sad ! " 

But as she speaks 

Her heart breaks in tears. 

The haijin, poetic vagabond as he was, could never 
resist making his caricature of the people he met on 
his way : the garrulous gardener, the hunter with 
his bow and arrow, awaiting a quail, the light- 
hearted workman, a handkerchief about his head 
and his pipe thrust in his belt. He watched the 
trembling flame of the fire of hemp kindled on a 
fisherman's boat and followed with his eye a traveller 
across a bridge whose length is proverbial : 

Under the beating rain 

A man runs the long length 

Of the bridge of Seta. 

Joso. 

In winter he catches the attitude of people who 
bend before the wind and lift their frozen hands 
to their lips. He is amused at the expense of an 
elegant, with his head enveloped in a silk veil, as he 



56 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

swings his inlaid sabre and waves his fan. The 
haijin himself carries only his old umbrella : 

The moon casts sudden shadows 
Of my tattered umbrella, 
In the autumn rain. 

Buson. 

He follows above all the life of the priests, with 
whom he generally is or has been affiliated. He 
knows the secret corridors of temples ; he has 
seen the gods from behind the scenes, and has 
examined their grotesque or pitying faces without 
fear. Buson gives us a delightful series of eccle- 
siastical types : the great Shintoist, in his white 
splendour, the meditative old bonze whose only 
occupation is to gather his lotus flowers ; the 
necromancer making his incantations in the smoking 
fire of benzoin ; the penitent pilgrim hidden under 
his vast straw hat ; and the monk in his insatiate 
search for alms, who never ceases to strike the little 
bell hanging against his breast : 

Along the winding road 

The psalmody of begging monks 

Goes wandering. 

It is singular that amongst this catholic collection 
almost none is satiric. To the Gallic apprehension, 
the short poem which depicts the intensification of 
personality is almost invariably pitched in that 
tone. It is the French sense, indeed, of the word 
epigram. In this interpretation the haikai, prac- 
tically without exception, could not be called 
epigrams. They express no action of raillery, but 
a comment made for the direct pleasure in its 
creation, and are far removed from the biting 
brilliance of Boileau or Piron. The salt of French 



THE LYRIC EPIGRAMS OF JAPAN 57 

epigrams is almost always in their play of words ; 
they are very justly called mots : " Piron was 
nothing, not even an Academician " ; " Egle com- 
poses his visage and does not compose his verse." 
They are light lashes of the tongue. The haikai is 
a coup cTczil. It is limited by the limitation of a 
glance ; it is scarcely even a caricature, since a 
caricature would presuppose the interposition of an 
idea between the eye and the object seen. 

But if the outlining of the silhouette betrays a 
feeling since, in the last analysis, all composition 
is conscious that feeling is almost invariably one 
of an indefinite sympathy, which extends from a 
benevolent curiosity to the profundities of pity. 
To ridicule is only to play at wit, and the haijin's 
wit is touched by his heart. His compassion is 
sometimes superficially mute but always sensitive : 

The weary carrier 

Travels his road, and never sees 

The mountain cherries. 

Buson. 

The poet, with no other burden than that of 
enjoying the spring flowers, has the sense of a certain 
remorse because of his privileges, as he watches the 
heavily-laden man who has neither time nor strength 
to lift his eyes. 

Wanderer as he is, he has a vital comprehension 
of human misery. His contacts are far from that 
dream of moonlight and flowers in which the poet 
of the uta uniquely exists. He knows that the 
grinding noise of a little saw, through the night, 
means that somewhere a workman is struggling to 
gain his bread ; he has divined the instinctive effort 
of the woman who gleans to remain in the sun, as 



58 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

she creeps forward in her work, because her rags 
scarcely cover her body ; and the three brief lines 
are moist not only with the freshness of the first dew 
but with the beauty of tears. 

The emotion trembling through the little poems 
at times vibrates as far as the realm of philosophic 
sentiment. In the following haikai is given an 
example of the continuity of the Japanese vision of 
life and of their custom, on every New Year's Day, 
to plant before each house a pine as the symbol of 
perpetuity : 

Pines at the doorway ! 
They mark the miles 
Of the road to eternity. 

Raizan, 1654-1716. 

The next, still more philosophic in tone, gives us 
in a flash the unbroken flow of human experience, 
with all the Buddhistic disenchantment. Its use 
of interruption is more than a striking means of 
expression and impression, and symbolizes the image 
of the sensible world : 

They spread their beauty And 

We watch them And 

The flowers turn and fade And . . . 

Onitsura. 

The third is one of the most purely exquisite of 
all haikai. Its pessimism is veiled by a half-shame- 
faced epicureanism, which is none the less enjoyed 
with the savour of a sin. " World of dew " is the 
usual dogmatic term of the priests, to designate the 
fugacity of things : 

This world of dew 

Is, alas, only a world of dew ! 

Yet, none the less . . . 

Issa, 1763-1827. 



THE LYRIC EPIGRAMS OF JAPAN 59 

This is a resumption of the haijin's creed. He is 
to perfection a fervent Buddhist, who doubts neither 
the sublimity of his doctrine nor the efficaciousness 
of his morality. He practises mercy to men and to 
animals, to plants and to demons. Seventy times 
each day he concentrates his thought at that point 
in his belief where all creatures confound themselves 
in a unique being. But he cannot deny that fact 
evidenced by his senses that, in the appalling 
journey of the human consciousness to the final 
abyss of nothingness, there are none the less lovely 
moments. He looks with all his consistency at the 
inconsistent face of this world of unrealities ; yet 
he finds it beautiful to look at. 

On the rare occasions when the haijin expresses a 
direct personal sentiment, he reverts to that im- 
passioned contemplation which is his vocation. He 
is far from the man whose intoxication is meta- 
physical : the noise of a frog diving in the still of a 
pond can stir the finest fibres of his imagination. 
In the series of his reincarnations he asks nothing 
more than to be part of the intrinsic beauty of 
nature and no role more splendid than that of the 
mute immobility of a great tree : 

Oh, marvellous moon ! 
Could I be born again 
A pine set on a peak ! 

Ryota. 

The fewest words are enough to express his 
limitless ecstasy. Even the traditional terseness of 
his medium seemed to him at times too redundant. 
The poet Teishitsu (1608-1671) burnt all his works 
with the exception of a single haikai which is only 
an exclamation : 



60 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

Ah, Ah! 

Is all the heart can say 

Before the flowers of Yoshino. 

He had penetrated the essence of the haikai ; the 
fact that its seventeen syllables are an interjection, 
a cry which has its meaning only from the depths of 
the feeling out of which it rises, and only for the 
sensibility of the ear which hears it. 



In the innumerable chorus of the makers of the 
haikai, it is difficult to distinguish special voices. 
A Japanese can isolate and analyse them ; the 
Western mind has a deeper pleasure in confounding 
and generalizing their beauty. The lyric epigram 
assumes for us the qualities of a national char- 
acteristic ; and in each case it is not a particular 
man, but the entity of Japan, whose expression 
reaches us. 

It is, however, essential to separate from the 
others the most ardent and penetrative of all, 
Basho (1644-1694). It was he who gave the haikai 
its soul ; who transformed it from a delicate amuse- 
ment and touched it with the purity of a work of 
art, a work which rose at times to the height of the 
religious. 

His life has a strange context with that of Pascal, 
whose young contemporary he was, on the farther 
edge of so widely disparate a world. He was a 
Japanese Pascal, without the geometrical sense, 
but equally grave and equally tormented by the 
desire to discover access to the human heart. His 
ardently austere youth received its deepest impress 
from the loss, when he was sixteen, of a friend to 



whom he clung with all the passion of life. Basho 
retired to the monastery of Koya, the Monte Cassino 
of Japan, and lived in the midst of nature, of books 
and of works of art, absorbed in the work of creating 
his soul. When he finally quitted the convent 
he went to Edo (the future Tokyo), followed the 
courses of the most famous teachers of the day, 
and shortly founded his own school. He was 
surrounded by priests and men of letters, by mer- 
chants and nobles, by women and by children, and 
was the central point of a circle whose literary 
authority was almost democratic in quality, in the 
midst of a strictly hieratical society. 

At the age of thirty-eight he experienced the 
profundities of a second conversion. He studied 
more deeply the doctrine of the sect of Zen, a kind 
of Buddhistic Jansenism, but a Jansenism both 
tolerant and joyous and whose rigidity is tempered 
by a sense of art and of the charm of human inter- 
course. A bond of intimate comprehension was 
woven between him, his professor in Buddhism 
and a servant of the latter, a man of no education, 
who had raised his consciousness to a high spiritual 
illumination. The conflagration of 1683, in which 
his house and the greater part of Edo were destroyed, 
was his miracle of the Holy Thorn ; he escaped 
death only by throwing himself into the garden 
pond, and the experience was a visible illustration 
of the Buddhistic text that all human life exists 
only as a house in the midst of flames. 

From this moment Basho became an apostle whose 
ardour was as intrinsic as his gentleness. He used 
poetry as a means of conversion. When his disciples 
transgressed the rule of poverty, humility and 
patience he reprimanded them by saying : " That 



62 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

is not in the spirit of haikai." More frequently 
he taught by illustration. He set out with them, 
through the length and breadth of the country, 
to give them a sense of communing with mountains 
and rivers, forests and waterfalls, to show them 
actual historic spots, and to fulfil the canons of the 
Buddhistic ideal. He visited with them places 
consecrated by legend and by heroism, battlefields, 
tombs and temples, and landscapes celebrated for 
their beauty, seeking everywhere not facts but an 
edification of the spirit. His aim was not science 
but illumination, in the Buddhistic sense. Basho 
was himself an accomplished mystic. He realized 
in actuality the precepts of the Zen doctrine 
that doctrine of ecstasy which, using art as its 
instrument of stimulation, carries its followers to 
the very summit of pure contemplation ; a doctrine 
at once powerful and gentle, and under whose 
influence have developed those virtues of sim- 
plicity, nobility and grace and that sobriety of good 
taste which is immanent in the art of ancient Japan. 
In the costume of the poorest pilgrim, Basho 
travelled with two or three disciples, his only 
burden a set of writing implements and a few 
books. He slept at inns or in wayside huts. At 
times his reputation brought him an invitation from 
some powerful personage ; in such instances he 
refused any formality of reception and accepted for 
himself and his companions only a bowl of cold 
rice, served by the master of the house and not by 
his servants. Without any attitude of prudery, 
he led a life which was extreme in its purity a 
rare instance in the midst of the licence of the 
first century of the Tokugawa. His principal 
precepts were never to give way to anger and to 



THE LYRIC EPIGRAMS OF JAPAN 63 

practise charity to all living things. This tender- 
ness for beasts and flowers became the most accen- 
tuated characteristic of the school. 

His disciples educated themselves to an elevation 
worthy of him. Three of them, including Kikaku 
and Ransetsu, who came from surroundings of 
riches and culture, lived together in a little room 
without other furnishing than a teapot and a kettle, 
and with its only ornament a statue of the child 
Buddha in a niche. They shared a single mattress, 
which was so short that their feet protruded beyond 
it ; and when the cold was too bitter they went 
out of doors and composed their haikai. Throughout 
Japan Basho left his trace in this half-convent, 
half-studio life. He never tired of inculcating into 
his pupils the fact that in order to be poets they 
must infuse poetry into their lives. He rarely 
spoke of art in any artificial isolation, and made 
little of the pretended rules of inventive processes. 
In composing he was in the habit of saying, " Do 
not compose too much. You will lose what springs 
from nature ; let your haikai rise from your heart." 
He wrote to a correspondent : " Your zeal in 
creative work is the best of news ; but the heart 
is more important than any erudition. There are 
many who can turn their three verses ; there are 
few who observe the rules of the heart." Elsewhere 
he says : " Let your haikai resemble the willow 
branch, wet with light rain and tremulous in the 
breeze," defining in this way the fact that the 
emotion with which the little poems are charged is 
all their price. 

Basho felt only contempt for the banalities of 
artificial poetry. The haikai were far from unknown 
before his time ; it had, on the contrary, been a 



64 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

fashion to excel in their composition. For the 
preceding century and a half, they had been per- 
fected by such successful poets as Sokan, Moritake, 
Teitoku, Teishitsu, Soin and Saikaku. There even 
existed men who made a profession of correction, 
and who retouched the attempts of beginners. 
The art was in its fullest vogue, but it was not 
above the level of a fine play of words. Basho 
raised it, at a stroke, to a height where he alone 
could sustain it. 

In a letter to a friend he divides the composers 
of the haikai into three classes : first, those who 
pass their lives wrangling over the points of cor- 
rection made by their instructors " an innocent 
folly which at times causes them to forget wife, 
children and liege lord " ; secondly, the rich who 
use poetry as a distraction and are indifferent as 
to whether the censors give them good or bad 
criticism " they resemble children at play " ; 
thirdly, those who make poetry with their hearts 
and who use it as a means to attain the philosophic 
and mystic life " of these there are scarcely a dozen 
in all the empire." 

He died at the age of fifty. On the day of his 
death he seated himself on his bed, his closest 
disciples facing him and the others on either hand. 
He sent messages to several pupils and charged 
those who were present to grant pardon to a disciple 
whom he had been forced to dismiss from the band 
for a grave offence ; then, joining his hands, he 
recited the sutra of the Goddess of Pity and fell 
into death as if he fell into sleep. 

A list of his effects has been preserved : a statue 
of Buddha, a copper bowl, a wooden ink-pot, a few 
books and a few kakemono. 



THE LYRIC EPIGRAMS OF JAPAN 65 

It was Basho's privilege to regenerate the taste 
of his day, and his figure dominates an entire epoch 
of Japanese literature. His haikai, which are difficult 
for even the Japanese appreciation, are often 
intelligible only to a mind nourished on Buddhistic 
doctrine, Chinese literature and Japanese history. 
Those which are accessible to us strike us either 
by the unforgettable simplification of a single 
impression, as in the following : 

An ancient pond, 

And, when a frog dives, 

A sudden sound in the silence. 

Or by so delicate a familiarity with animals that he 
recalls to us St. Francis of Assisi : 

On the flower where it glances, 
Ah, spare the little bee, 
Friend sparrow ! * 

Or above all by the grave and perpetual thought 

of death : 

Death against the heart, 
Nothing announces it 
In the grasshopper's song. 

The summer's green ! 

All that remains 

Of the dreams of dead warriors. 

This last example was written on the site of a 
battlefield. 

* Kikaku once brought to his master this haikai : 
The glorious dragon-fly, 
Strip his wings, 
And he is but a reddened grain. 

Basho reproached him for the downward movement of his 
imagination and corrected the composition as follows : 

Lift a reddened grain 

With wings, and behold 

A glorious dragon-fly. 
F 



66 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

Until about 1720 the school of Basho kept at its 
height the flame which the Master had kindled. 
Onitsura, Kikaku, Ransetsu, Kyorai, Joso, Kyoroku, 
Shiko, Yaha, Etsujin are on a plane with both 
the beauty and austerity of Basho's composition : 
some of their epigrams attain the absolute quality 
of perfection. From 1720 to 1750 a decline is 
evidenced. The haikai became once more a play 
of wit, often nothing more fundamental than a 
charming enigma. But in the second half of the 
eighteenth century there was a renascence of the 
real haikai. The great haijin of this period was 
Buson (1716-1783). He was a painter of Kyoto, 
with a sharply defined independence and originality 
of spirit. At Kinkakuji there are two rooms 
decorated by him, in a few strokes of brown and 
ochre, showing an execution at once brutal and 
confident. The peninsulas advancing into the 
waters of his lakes are peopled with trees bent by 
the tempest ; on the lakes are laden rafts, which 
make their slow progress by means of the long 
boat-hooks in the hands of the sailors. The pilgrim 
who leaps to the bank recalls the sketch in the 
haikai by the same author : 

The boat grounds in sand . . . 
I spring to shore 
Among the violets. 

Set in the corners of the composition the rags of 
scattered groups of beggars infuse a touch of black 
and of rose. At intervals there is a note of yellow 
like the melancholy of a Cazin : a cottage with 
its thatch torn and tattered stands against a horizon 
of sandy hills. There is a screen by Buson in the 
Kyoto Museum, painted with wild horses in rare 



THE LYRIC EPIGRAMS OF JAPAN 67 

tints of green, violet, rose and white. The painting 
is crude and somewhat arid the white tail of one 
horse and the whiteness in the water of a cascade 
have the density of plaster but it is a profoundly 
original work, of breadth and of probity, which 
shows none of the evanescent qualities of the 
desire to please. During his lifetime, Buson was 
supremely valued for his haikai ; after his death 
there was a recrudescence of the cult for his paint- 
ings ; to-day his fame as a poet is again the more 
accentuated of the two. The dominant note of 
his haikai is that of his sincere love of the poor 
and the suffering. They are less profound than 
the haikai of Basho, less exquisite, less philosophic, 
more purely picturesque, possibly more varied, 
and at times of a more simple and poignant humanity. 
An anthology of the haikai of Buson would give the 
best idea of all the various resources and expressions 
of this art. 

In the list of the makers of the lyric epigram 
mention should be made of the poetess Chiyo 
(1703-1775), who wrote with a delicately feminine 
accent of compassion. Every Japanese knows the 
little lines in which she has enclosed the eternity 
of her grief at the death of her young son : 

The little hunter of dragon-flies, 
To what far country 
Has he taken his hunting ? 



The author of a biography of Buson remarks : 
" European poetry has a power of seduction, but it 
is superficial. Japanese poetry has little artifice, 
but it is vivified with soul." The severity with 



68 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

which this author limits the field of our poetry 
should warn us of the difficulties in judging the 
poetic expression of an alien race. There have been 
several charming definitions of the haikai, which 
may attest our appreciation of it. Mr. Chamber- 
lain characterizes it as the opening of a trap-door, 
for an instant, on a tiny glimpse of life ; a half- 
formed, sudden smile ; or a quick sigh, interrupted 
and dispersed before it has been heard. In his 
lovely studies of Japan, M. Andre Bellessort uses 
particularly happy terms of definition : a poem 
made of the glimmer of light and the tremulousness 
of feeling ; the perfection of exactitude enveloped 
in a dream ; sparks which light our vision with 
infinite vibrations of sensibility. He likens the 
haikai also to delicate old fans which, in the second 
in which one opens and closes them, flash before 
one's eyes the miracle of a great landscape. 

The Greeks, of certain phases of whose art the 
Japanese art not infrequently reminds us, believed 
that one of the characteristics of their poetry was 
a winged concision. It is interesting to compare 
with the haikai certain epigrams of the Anthology. 
" The perfect epigram," as Cyrillos puts it, " is in 
two verses ; beyond three it ceases to be an epigram 
and becomes an epic." 

These exquisite distichs are fashioned quite 
otherwise than the haikai. Instead of the three 
brief notes of surprise, there are two exclamations 
prolonged by the rhythm of tragedy. Though 
they are almost as brief as the haikai, their difference 
in essence is enclosed in their limited space. They 
are impregnated with a ritual gravity and a nobility 
of grandeur, and one feels it their destiny to be 
inscribed in perpetuity on bronze or marble, and 



not on the light scrap of silk paper which is as 
tenuous as a flower. 

The great columns of Naxos, Megatimos and Aristophoon 
Are planted, oh vast Earth, in thy breast. 

Archilochus of Paros. 

Alkibe gave her ritual veil of hair 
To Hera, who vouchsafed the sanctity of marriage. 

Archilochus. 

To the fisher Petagon his father Meniscos consecrates 
His fish trap and his oar, symbols of his hard life. 

Sappho. 

Prexedike has made it, Dyseris has designed it, 
This sacred mantle : their love has united in it. 

Anacreon. 

Those who brought to Phoebus the booty of the Tyrrhenians, 
The same sea, the same bark, the same tomb, holds them. 

Simonides of Ceos. 

The solemn distich falls into the slower move- 
ment of mourning in the following : 

A child of twelve years ! Philip has laid here 
His son Nicoteles, his only hope. 

Callimachus. 

Ordinarily the Greek epigrams are composed of 
two, three or four distichs. Like the haikai they 
remained an intellectual fashion for centuries. It 
was a matter of pride to turn them exquisitely 
and elegantly. Several collections exist of the best 
amongst them. One constantly notes in these the 
persistency of the same basic idea which animates 
the haikai, but its advance is measured to an even 
tread, instead of a light flight of feet. The metro- 
nome is changed, and instead of the Japanese 
prestissimo there is the calm of andante. 

There is a curious charm in the contrast between 
the animals depicted by the haijin and two Greek 



7 o JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

epigrams treating of animals, by the poetess Anyte 
of Tegea, who was the Chiyo of Greece. The 
first is on a goat : 

The children have strapped red reins and a bridle, oh goat, to 

thy bearded chin, 
They sport before the temple, that the god may protect their 

play. 

The next is on a dolphin : 

Nevermore in the swinging seas shall I lift my dripping head from 

the vast deeps 
And against the brassy prows of ships scatter my watery breath, 

joyous to see my own image. 
The dark waves have beat me to land, and I lie conquered on 

the soft sands of the shore. 

The following are two Greek landscapes, by Plato. 
In the first the God Pan speaks : 

Sit thee beside this singing pine whose verdure, far above, quivers 

with every air, 
And on thine eyes, beside my tremulous brook, my flute will lay 

sleep's magic. 

In the second he is also present : 

Hush, and drink from the dryad's rock waters burst from the 

stone. The sheep call to their young. 
It is he who holds the melodious flute. To the gathered reeds 

Pan has touched his moist lips, 
And they cluster around and their restless feet feel for the dance 

Nymphs of water and Nymphs of the wood, 

In the final example the epicurean sense of the 
ephemeral is a far echo of the haijin's Buddhistic 
sense of mortality : 

Here, even now, are roses and young peas, and the delicate hearts 

of cabbages, those that are first to be cut, 
And anchovies with their moisture, fresh white cheese, and the 

pale leaves of curled lettuces. 



THE LYRIC EPIGRAMS OF JAPAN 71 

Shall we not climb the cliffs and look afar, oh Sosylos, as we have 

done each year ? . . . 
Behold, Antigene and Bacchios yesterday loved in the sun ; to-day 

cold earth receives them. 

Philodemus. 

In French expression, certain extremely terse 
poems of Verlaine are perhaps what most intrinsically 
convey the Japanese essence. Even these contain 
four or five times as much matter as the Japanese 
poems. The apparent facility in the construction 
of a haikai is its most inherent danger. It is the 
form of literature from which the so-called literary 
manner is most completely excluded. Since expres- 
sion is reduced to what may be called a supreme 
minimum, it is impossible to create in this space 
an elemental beauty unless one has had an elemental 
sensation or a genuine emotion. A haikai is, indeed, 
a pure sensation ; and, if this sensation is no more 
than ordinary in its revelation, the fabric falls to 
pieces. On the other hand, as a form to phrase 
in its palpitant purity an acute moment of life, 
there is perhaps no poetic composition superior to 
that of the haikai.* 

The interest of such attempts in French is that 
it shows what an effort of limitation the Western 
artist must impose on his receptivity in order to 
condense his feeling into a unique sensation. This 

* Julien Vocance (Cent visions de guerre), during the winter of 
1914 and the year 1915, in the Champagne trenches where he 
fought and was wounded, conceived the idea of noting in this 
form his impressions of the war. The lyric epigram proved to be 
extraordinarily adapted to express this terrible substance. In my 
opinion, these haikai of Julien Vocance are worthy to be placed 
beside the Japanese models, as one of our prints is sometimes 
hung beside the Japanese example which has inspired so much 
of its beauty. [Author's Note.] 



72 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

compression is natural to the Japanese poet. It 
is strange to think that Japanese poetry almost in 
its entirety the poetry of thirteen centuries is 
composed of these tiny morsels, for the poems of 
three verses are the primitive poems of five verses 
divided in half. In the work of all French poets 
it would be possible to trace passages which, if 
isolated, would exist as haikai. In La Fontaine, 
above all, there are perfect ones. But all these 
are inserted in a whole which flows to its own end. 
The Japanese poet would treat them for their 
individual value. One notes here an essential 
divergence between the Japanese and the French ; 
the most fragmentary of the French poets are 
eminently constructive compared to theirs. 

These differences are finally reducible to the 
elements of psychologic definition. An Occidental 
mind instinctively constructs ; a Japanese mind 
instinctively dissociates. This is an atavistic ten- 
dency, a trend of habit accentuated by early educa- 
tion and at times corrected by advanced instruction. 
The French child who tries his hand at drawing 
first makes a house or a man ; the little Japanese 
draws a tree or the curve of a finger-nail. The 
one reacts at once to the whole ; the other, with 
the immediacy of instinct, to detail. Their differ- 
ences of impression and of execution are after all 
differences of immensity, if they have the great- 
ness to integrate their dreams and if one becomes 
a Corot and the other a Motonobu. 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 




JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 

OKTO, 6th February 1904. An im- 
perial decree, published this morning, 
promulgates the continuance under 
arms of the marine forces which 
were shortly to be demobilized. 
A fact still more serious, and the 
publication of which has been for- 
bidden, is that the army reservists have been called 
to the colours. A crowd is gathered about the 
barracks to acclaim them. There is a general belief 
that the declaration of war is imminent. 

The government keeps the public in complete 
ignorance of both its intentions and its decisions. 
An absolute censorship is exercised in regard to all 
news concerning military operations. Even to-day, 
when the streets of Tokyo are alive with the excite- 
ment caused by the issuance of the call to reservists, 
the papers refrain from publishing this order. This 
state of ignorance fails to calm general opinion and 
definitely exasperates it. During the six months 
that the government has passed through a period 
of hesitation and delay, the patriotic and military 
ardour of the people has been progressively inflamed. 
From the class of journalists and professors this 
ardour has penetrated to the merchant class, to 
workmen and to women. My rickshaw man has 
fervent visions of the conquest of Corea ; a charm- 

75 



7 6 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

ing young lady told me yesterday that her two 
brothers have joined the colours and that she 
herself is enlisted as a nurse. Nothing in Japan 
equals the popularity of the Red Cross, and every 
mousme wishes to crown her dark hair with a 
white muslin cap. The little soldiers one passes 
in the streets, with all their straps tightly buckled 
and their equipment shining, are red with the 
excitement of anticipation. No war has ever been 
acclaimed here with a more universal popularity, 
and there has never been a more unbroken confidence 
in victory. The government, which alone could 
define for the country the actuality of the difficulties 
to be overcome, is silent, and this silence augments 
the general confidence. 

It is interesting that the commercial class are 
the most keenly enthusiastic for the war. Possibly 
they foresee a stimulation of trade. It is they who 
swell the membership of the many national leagues 
recently founded, and who are most noticeable at 
patriotic banquets. At the moment they have 
collected two million yen as a war subscription. 
With them must be ranged the instructors and 
professors, who have had a paramount influence in 
transforming what was in reality a war of con- 
flicting interests into a war of an almost sacred 
enthusiasm. The patriotic intensity of hatred for 
Russia is not new in Japan. The smallest school- 
child is sensitive to the stigma of the ceding of 
Sakhaline, in 1875, in exchange for a group of 
valueless islands ; above all he is aware of the fact 
that the Russians deprived Japan of the fruits of 
her conquests in China. Every one quotes the 
teacher who taught his pupils to walk on the snow, 
in order to accustom them to the climate of the 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 77 

enemies of Japan. There is acute appreciation of the 
fact that what Russia now menaces is Corea, the 
country twice conquered by Japan and the goal of her 
secular ambition ; and this at a moment when Japan 
is stronger than at any previous period of her history, 
when she has emerged victorious from two wars 
and when she owns the largest armoured ships in 
the world. This is the belief of the little Japanese 
and what inspires his impatience for departure ; 
it is evident this people has had no education in 
the spirit of defeat. 

While all the action of the government isolates 
it from the nation at large, the people are con- 
comitantly conscious of a complete unanimity of 
determination. The vivifying force of this en- 
thusiasm is such that if, at the moment, the Japanese 
obtained by diplomacy all the advantages they 
hope to achieve, there would exist an inevitable 
disappointment. They are keyed up to the ardour 
of a war with a European power, in order to astonish 
Europe ; and they are convinced that any con- 
cessions on the part of Russia would bear the stamp 
of perfidy. 

With war openly desired by those business interests 
hostile to Russia and passionately longed for by the 
nation at large, the issues, as it seems, have been 
determined by a silent and circumspect government. 
The Japanese fleet is concentrated between Sasebo 
and Tsushima ; the people have heard, with some 
anxiety, that the Russian fleet has left Port Arthur 
for an unknown destination ; they can only await 
developments. 

8th February. The various journalists are sum- 
moned to meet this evening at the Ministry of 
Foreign Affairs, to receive an announcement from 



78 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

Baron Komura. In these eight months of waiting 
for a definitive word, it is the first time that a 
member of the government has made any declara- 
tion. During this silence the newspapers have been 
left to formulate their own opinions, without either 
moderation or enlightenment from official sources, 
and they have been constantly discouraged by the 
strangeness of this reserve. They have finally, and 
in desperation, published anything and everything 
in order to elicit at least correction ; but the 
government has steadily refused to direct public 
opinion. This has been its greatest weakness. It 
is possible that the official world itself will now be 
influenced by the publication of fictitious and 
exaggerated statements, which have all that dis- 
proportion of judgment which comes from editorial 
offices. The more the journalists have felt the 
reserve of the politicians, the more their irritation 
has grown. They have excited the country at 
large and given its enthusiasm the dangerous note 
of infatuation. From a troublesome neighbour 
Russia has been changed by the newspaper men 
into an ogre. 

It is announced each morning that Russia will be 
easier to conquer than China ; and since Japan has 
never had the salutary experience of misfortune, 
since a wave of Cossacks sweeping from the North 
to the South has never given another turn to the 
opinion of the populace, this statement has been 
half credited. If war is definitely announced 
to-night, the triumph of the journalists will be 
complete. They have done everything possible to 
render it inevitable. 

Last December the two Chambers had an exist- 
ence of only five minutes before their dissolution, 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 79 

and it is therefore only to the press representatives 
that the Minister will read his declaration. The 
diplomatic corps has in the course of the day been 
apprised of the contents of this declaration. It is 
understood that since the 6th oral negotiations with 
Baron de Rosen have ceased. For the last two days 
reservists from the country at large have poured 
into Tokyo. The coolies are erecting temporary 
shelters for horses along the length of the canals. 
There is a general belief that action is imminent. 

At half-past nine I met one of the staff of the 
Yomiuri, who told me that though nothing was 
certain the rupture of negotiations had been 
announced, and hurried on to prepare his article. 

tyh February. The papers have published the 
declaration of the Ministry ; and at a stroke we have 
learned the result of the negotiations and in what 
they have consisted. On the 1 2th of last August, 
Japan claimed a quasi-protectorate in Corea, with 
an engagement to respect commercial freedom ; 
this also involved the recognition by Russia of 
Chinese sovereignty and commercial freedom in 
Manchuria. On the 3rd of October, Russia refused 
to assume alone any engagement regarding Man- 
churia and demanded that Japan should undertake 
not to use Corea for any strategic purposes. Her 
requirements included the establishment of a neutral 
zone in the north of Corea and a recognition by Japan 
that Manchuria was beyond the sphere of her 
interests. This was, in a word, the proposition 
known as Manchuria against Corea. Japan cate- 
gorically refused it, calculating that a half -Japanese 
Corea would be menaced by a Manchuria completely 
Russian. At this point negotiations were sus- 
pended, and they have now been broken off. Japan, 



8o JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

concludes the declaration, " has abandoned all hope 
of reconciliation." 

It is undeniable that it is difficult to see either 
an imperative or urgent reason for war. Nor does 
the situation contain a serious threat against the 
security of Japan or even against the probable develop- 
ment of her ambitions. What is definite is that 
Japan fears, even if she is given a complete liberty 
in Corea, that she may be preceded there by Russians, 
and that she would in consequence be unable to 
absorb it as quickly as they. The Japanese enter- 
prise in Corea is insignificant in comparison with 
the Russian enterprise in Manchuria. This is the 
stimulative point of action. Japan has until now 
been little of a colonist and has only a meagre 
power of expansion. She wishes to change this 
state of things by force, and the basic motive of 
the war is that she believes this occasion to be 
favourable. She has imposed on herself heavy 
sacrifices to obtain an army and navy of the first 
rank, and is eager to profit by this advantage. The 
sensibility of the nation has, above all, been wounded 
by the form of the negotiations and by the indolence 
of Russia in replying. This was a false step which 
the Russians should have avoided in dealing with 
the proudest and most sensitive of peoples. 

Though the government makes no categorical 
announcement, no one is deceived as to its inten- 
tions. The newspapers assume the accent and 
attitude of stirring days ; some exaggerate the tone 
of their arguments and others exalt the lyric quality 
of their patriotism. 

The Asahi, the journal of business men, defines 
the principal cause of war as the competition of the 
Russians and the Japanese in Manchuria. To quote 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 81 

its article : " If Russia had definitively occupied 
Manchuria, Japan would have been deprived of a 
territory suitable to receive the surplus of her 
population and which would have offered them 
admirable means to sustain life. We should have 
been continually subjected to an artificial com- 
pression and our fifty millions of compatriots would 
have been reduced to the shameful necessity of 
remaining confined to this small group of islands, 
which can neither produce sufficient subsistence to 
nourish them nor furnish them with enough space 
for free elbow-room." The exaggeration of this is 
evident. Of the fifty million Japanese of which 
the Asahi speaks, a hundred and thirty thousand 
alone reside in foreign countries, half of this number 
in the Hawaian Islands. The Japanese is one of 
the least emigrant of nations. In spite of the 
density of its population Japan is not overcrowded, 
and in all the northern portion of the country 
there is ample space. 

The Jiji, an anglophile sheet, subscribes, with 
apparent innocence, to the English prejudices 
against Russia. It avers that Japan will be fighting 
for civilization and insists on the enthusiastic recep- 
tion of this idea. " Supposing that by the grace 
of heaven we emerge victorious from this difficult 
struggle, we shall not only be in a condition to 
fulfil our solemn duty, which is to carry the light 
of civilization into the Far East, but we shall also 
impose upon the world at large the necessity of 
respecting us and we shall deserve, in the history 
of the progress of humanity, a glorious chapter." 
One admires an eloquence so separate from lower 
interests ; but the Jiji concludes, more frankly : 
" If she is fated to find a Trafalgar or a Waterloo in 

G 



82 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

the Far East, Japan can aspire to be the England 
of the Eastern world." The formula has been 
stated : Japan hopes for a Trafalgar. 

Another paper reproaches the Russians, above 
all else, with their delays and with their offensive 
negligence. " So outrageous a treatment is con- 
trary to those rules of justice which Japan has 
observed since the most remote centuries." The 
note of comment here is simpler and fairer. One 
hears the echo of the Samurai who, stirred by a 
slight failure of behaviour, makes out his vengeance 
a sacred duty. The fact that the Russians have 
broken the ancient code of courtesy seems to this 
people to be their gravest provocation. 

So far as the aspect of the streets goes or rather 
of the roads it is necessary to remember, in order 
to estimate the public manifestations, that Tokyo 
is an immense village, stretching widely about the 
moat of a huge palace. It is a village of two million 
inhabitants, most of whom live at the mercy of the 
free wind. The greater number of the houses, 
which are low and open, resemble those of small 
settlements. The different quarters are called 
" hamlets." These " hamlets " are grouped on 
hill-sides, among the trees, in the depth of valleys, 
in the open plain, on the banks of the river and 
of the various canals ; others are clustered in an 
ancient park of the daimyo and still others about 
an old temple. The form of life is almost rural. 
The roads, which are without paving of any sort, 
run along the flowering hedges, through the groves 
of bamboo and under the awnings in front of the 
shops. Even the few official buildings, in the vague 
circumference about the palace, scarcely combine 
to give the impression of a city such as the Western 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 83 

eye is accustomed to see. One finds at times a street 
which is more compact in its animation, and where 
tea-houses and the wares of book-shops and print- 
sellers are crowded together. From the south to 
the north runs the high road lined with the kiosks 
where newspapers are sold and with the modern 
bazaars. In this vast unorganized village it is not 
easy to observe any direct manifestation of public 
opinion or activity. The people pursue desultorily 
their small errands. The gogai are already in 
circulation, that is to say, sheets of the most recent 
news, printed as an " extra " on tiny squares of 
paper. These are carried from hamlet to hamlet, 
to the sound of a bell ; but the vendors do not 
hurry, and there is no haste to seize the gogai from 
them. 

The reservists are gathered before the shops to 
allow their uniforms, which they still wear with an 
air of awkwardness, to be admired. They carry 
their Japanese clothes in a bundle and seem a 
little flustered to be in trousers. The people press 
around, to compliment them and make them little 
gifts, and there is a general atmosphere of good-will 
and laughter. 

The country people have led in their horses, 
miserable, knock-kneed, hairy beasts, which are none 
the less treasured by their owners. The State 
ordinarily pays from 60 to 120 yen for them, but 
on this occasion it is understood that they shall be 
worth only from 20 to 30 yen. A poor North- 
countryman has offered for no compensation an 
excellent horse, equipped for mountain climbing, 
and has led him in, carrying the animal's feed 
himself. 

The bazaars are already offering a print of the 



84 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

expected naval victory, by Gakko, the first in his 
trade. They also have for sale large maps, where 
Corea appears coloured in the same tint as Japan. 

A society has been formed for the purpose of 
composing such poems as will amuse the soldiers 
and stimulate their ardour. 

At the South Station refugees from Vladivostok 
have begun to arrive. They are for the most part 
coolies and girls of the poorer class, who are full of 
such stories as that the Russians tried to detain some 
of the Japanese women, and of their indignant pro- 
tests, in the manner of the heroines of Maupassant. 
It appears that almost all the Russian babies there 
had Japanese nurses, so these little creatures are the 
first victims of the war. 

At five o'clock there is a gogai : two Russian ships 
are blocked by a Japanese squadron at Tchemulpo. 
The news is entitled " Caught in the neck of a 
bottle," with an evident reminiscence of Santiago 
di Cuba. 

At ten in the evening the little bells ring out the 
arrival of graver tidings. Three Russian ships have 
been torpedoed at Port Arthur and there is a general 
engagement. 

loth February. The official despatch from 
Tchemulpo reads that after a fruitless attempt at 
escape, and after Admiral Uryu's warning that they 
were violating the neutrality of the port, the 
Varyag and the Koreets brought on themselves their 
own destruction. The despatch does not publish 
the number of Japanese war-ships engaged, which 
would scarcely be flattering to Japanese pride. 

The news from Port Arthur is confirmed, but the 
outcome of the battle is not yet known. 

The Europeans here are indignant at this sudden 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 85 

aggression on the part of Japan, without a declaration 
of war and in neutral waters. I have been to see a 
retired Japanese general, to ask his opinion in the 
matter, and he surprised me by the following 
question : 

" And what is your opinion of these Russian 
officers who do not die on their decks ? And of the 
petty officers who go pleading to the consulates 
that they should not be made prisoners ? Japanese 
would never have done that. In the accident to 
the Takaimaru, some months ago, the captain had 
himself lashed to the main-mast and sank with his 
boat. She was only a trading- vessel. At the battle 
of Yalou, the Chinese admiral knew how to die on 
board. I can assure you that if, by misfortune, a 
Japanese war-ship were destroyed in this war, not 
a sailor would wish to save himself." 

I replied, with some astonishment, that it was 
difficult to see why the suicide of the Russian sailors 
should have been deemed necessary, and that the 
Russian commandant had fulfilled his duty cate- 
gorically. But the general did not enter into this 
distinction. I could feel in him the old Japanese 
code of suicide : "to have a trust, to fail in its 
discharge, nothing remains but harakiri." 

I ventured another question : would he not 
regard Corea as neutral territory ? 

" Not in the least. We do not admit this pre- 
tension of neutrality. The war with China be- 
queathed to us the right to Corean territory for the 
passage of our troops." 

" Is it, then, in conformity with the spirit of the 
Samurai to attack Russia without warning ? " 

" And why not ? " 

His tone recalled the fact that in the histories of 



86 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

heroism which one sees on the Japanese stage, cunning 
and sudden attack are raised to an equal glory with 
suicide. Whether one kills or dies, the facts and 
the terms are equally unimportant. One is suddenly 
aware, in the tests of war, of certain radical moral 
divergences between Oriental and Occidental. We 
have not the same definition of the noble and the 
ignoble. 

As I passed along the principal street I found the 
print by Gakko for sale everywhere, together with 
some old photographs of the battle of Yalou. The 
gogai are issued on each other's heels ; but there is 
still no statement of the result of the Port Arthur 
engagement. The crowd showed neither anxiety 
nor turbulence. Some street urchins had dragged 
a Russian flag in a brook and heaped pebbles upon it, 
but the people seemed as calm and as smilingly 
polite as usual. One wonders whether it is their 
habitual sense of deportment or an absolute con- 
fidence in victory. 

In the Kanda district several barbers have hung 
out a sign that soldiers will be shaved at half-price. 
The half-tariff applies also in the public baths. A 
midwife advertises her services as free to the wives 
of soldiers who have left for the war. A small 
ovation was being given to a soldier of enormous 
stature. It appears that men of this size have 
framed a petition that they be sent to the front in a 
single company. Each of them is able to do the 
work of three coolies and can give the lie to whoever 
sneers at the miniature size of the Japanese. A more 
touching petition is that of the prisoners who are 
nearing the expiration of their terms. Since they 
are not eligible as soldiers, they beg to be admitted 
to the lower ranks of the police. It gives a sense of 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 87 

the unanimity of the country that, the moment 
there is a patriotic necessity, the thieves should offer 
to do police work. 

A manifestation was organized by the Jiji for 
this evening. Several hundred students met in 
the new park of Hibiya, carrying red and white 
paper lanterns and the national flag. The con- 
stables respectfully asked them to maintain order ; 
they, too, carried the regulation red and white 
lantern, for in this unlit village the police do the 
service of public lighting. The students marched 
in good order to the outer gate of the palace ; they 
were followed by a few girl scholars, walking on their 
high clogs and seeming somewhat embarrassed and 
shy in the crowd. Before the closed gates there 
were shouts of " Banzai ! banzai ! " and the pro- 
cession then wound off to repeat the ceremony 
in the enclosure of the Admiralty. They parted 
at last with many salutations, the lanterns separated 
like fire-flies in the immensity of the night, and 
peace dropped on the city; the moon whitened 
the silent roads like hoar-frost, and gave it the fan- 
tastic contours and values of Chinese ink ; and the 
black sky was powdered with the silver of an 
aventurine lacquer. 

nth February. Last night the Emperor made a 
public declaration of war ; from the point of view 
of the Russians, who have been informed by such 
definite acts, it must seem somewhat tardy. 

The moment is scarcely a well-chosen one for the 
citation of Russian brutalities ; the Jiji none the 
less says : " It is entirely in the nature of things that 
the Russians should provoke to the utmost, by their 
inhuman actions, the magnanimity of our officers 
and our men. But we may be confident that the 



88 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

Japanese will control themselves and will do nothing 
contrary to the universally recognized laws of 
civilization and of humanity. While the enemy, 
stripped of his varnish of civilization, will show 
himself in all his naked barbarity, the moderation 
and humanity of our men will elicit, as a contrast, 
the sympathy of the civilized world." 

The Kokumin, a semi-official sheet, predicts a 
long war. " We have not yet fought on land, and 
we should not underestimate the enemy before the 
exchange of some vital strokes. The comment of 
certain Russians should serve us as a warning ; they 
admit the superiority of Japan at every point except 
one the capacity for endurance. We must of 
necessity contradict this estimate, and we must 
summon all our powers of firmness and of per- 



severance." 



The Asabi believes the day to be far distant when 
Russia shall sue for peace. " The fact that she 
hesitates to publish her defeat at Port Arthur 
proves the obstinacy of her resolution." It is 
ironic that so little does Russia hesitate to " publish 
her defeat " that it is through the Alexeieff report, 
sent back from Paris by M. Motono, that Japan has 
to-day learned the details of her success. 

To-day is a national fete : the anniversary of the 
foundation of the Empire, at the time of Romulus, 
by Jimmu Tenno, great-grandson of the Sun. 
There is a great display of flags fewer, however, 
than on New Year's Day. The Emperor gives a 
breakfast to the various diplomats, after which he 
is to receive the guardians of the sacred treasures. 
These treasures, the possession of which designates 
the Emperor, are : the mirror of the goddess, Sun, 
the sabre of the god, Typhon, and a sacred jewel. 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 89 

The day is further celebrated by a performance of 
the No : five lyric dramas with chorus, orchestra 
and dances. 

I strolled into the theatre, to gossip about 
Japanese matters with a friend. The public is 
extraordinarily calm. The gogai are not dis- 
tributed, and no one seems to attach any importance 
to them. There is no atmosphere of war ; for that 
matter, there is none throughout Tokyo, except in 
the barracks and in the newspaper offices. 

They were playing Sumidagawa, one of the most 
celebrated of the No. A woman, who carries the 
reed which indicates madness, learns from a boatman 
that the child she is seeking was drowned, some years 
since. The songs, the orchestra, and the lines of 
the poem unite in the expression of this sorrow. 
The movement of river waves, the rustle of bamboos 
and the stir of the wind murmur in concert the 
prayer of the dead to Amida. By degrees the 
strident and plaintive music grows vaster ; the 
mother hears through it the voice of her child 
invoking Amida. The child suddenly appears to 
her, with the terrifying hair of a spirit ; twice 
she tries to embrace it and twice it melts from 
her grasp and disappears. 

The story is profoundly impressive, and the 
people around were moved to the point of tears. 
Their openness to artistic impression is unfailing ; 
it is difficult to realize that their sons and brothers 
are at this moment on the high seas, fighting a great 
battle. 

Baron de Rosen, the Russian Minister, has left. 
He was fated to learn here the reverses which have 
come to his country. He has been surrounded 
with sympathy ; the Court and the various Ministers 



90 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

have sent representatives to take leave of him, and 
all the foreign Ministers were present at his depar- 
ture, except those of Corea and China. The 
Empress gave Madame de Rosen some magnificent 
gold and silver lacquers. 

The newspapers have joined in this manifestation 
of sympathy. " Baron de Rosen," says the Kokumin, 
" is one of Japan's best friends and one who has most 
intimately comprehended us. He has served his 
government with an impeccable devotion and 
loyalty and he has always shown us his good-will. 
The Japanese preserve intact their friendly senti- 
ments for the Court of Russia and its representative, 
and they wish nothing better than that Baron de 
Rosen should shortly find himself here again." 

" It was beyond Baron de Rosen's power," says 
the Asahi, " to prevent the present crisis ; indeed, 
it was also beyond the power of the Tsar. We have 
the highest personal regard and respect for Baron 
de Rosen and for his master, the Tsar, both of whom 
are above any prejudice of hostility of race or of 
religion. Let us hope that, in fighting with equal 
devotion to their relative causes and as honourable 
enemies, the two belligerents will not lose their old 
sense of personal esteem ; let us trust that they can 
deal with each other like two friends placed in a 
temporarily false position." 

At this hour, and fugitive as it may be, one has 
the tragic impression of a war at the base of which 
lies no hatred. 

Almost all the Russians have left with Baron de 
Rosen ; there was a sad leave-taking at the station 
between the Minister and the orthodox bishop of 
Tokyo, Monsignor Nicolai. Baron de Rosen urged 
him to accompany them, but the bishop could not 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 91 

be prevailed upon to do so. His life work has been 
here, and he has remained in his cathedral with the 
golden minarets, surrounded by the twenty-five 
thousand Japanese Christians who owe their con- 
version almost solely to his ardour. 

The French Minister, M. Harmand, is charged 
with the protection of the remaining Russians, and 
M. Andre, the first interpreter, will live in the 
Russian Legation. 

12th February. The Bank of Japan is about to 
issue a war loan of a hundred million yen. It has 
only a hundred million of gold in reserve. M. 
Sonoda, one of the best speakers in Japan, has begun 
a campaign through the country to prevent a 
deterioration of value in the yen. He is urging his 
compatriots to deposit all their gold and silver 
objects in the Bank of Japan, in order to assure the 
currency of paper money. The cost of the war 
falls most heavily upon the poorer classes ; the rich, 
on their part, are contributing their most priceless 
possessions. These are in many cases treasures 
inherited from generations of ancestors ; in the 
Japanese view their beauty is only enhanced by the 
sacrifice of them to patriotic necessity. 

The geisha have been the first to respond to this 
appeal : they have brought their jewels, and some- 
times even the watch-chains of their friends. 

The Japanese are generally supposed to have little 
dependence on the forms of their belief ; but it is 
none the less evident that they are anxious to know 
if the gods are favourable to them. In the first 
days of the war with China, a bird of prey which 
had lit for a moment on the main-mast of the 
Takachiho was captured. It was a fortunate 
presage, for the Takachiho was the first to sink a 



92 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

Chinese boat. This time the same ship, according 
to report, has cut a young whale in two. The 
augurs claim that this foretells the definite separation 
of the Russian fleet into two impotent masses. 
The daily despatches give news of other forecasts. 
While a man of Bitchu was smoking his pipe, he 
saw an eagle fall from the sky ; this, to the popular 
mind, symbolizes the Russian eagle. In Chikuzen, 
at the temple of Hachimantaro, the Kokumin 
announces that while the priests were praying for 
Japan, the sacred pigeons, to the number of seven 
hundred, flew out to the north-west and disappeared. 
It is cited that in 1894, just before the battle of 
Yalou, the birds took flight in the same manner and 
only returned after the Japanese victory. 

One gathers, from the space which these reports 
occupy in the papers, that the public mind is far 
from indifferent to them. Before he received his 
appointment as admiral from the Emperor, Togo 
had been chosen by popular acclaim because he had 
fired the first cannon shot in the war with China. 

Marquis Ito was to-day sent to the sanctuaries 
of Ise, to make a solemn petition to the gods. He 
penetrated to the depths of the sacred forest and, 
in the little wooden temple, where since the origin 
of things the mirror of the goddess, Sun, has rested, 
and before the light silk veil which no one may raise, 
he read the great invocation. This is the ceremony 
which marks the days of national peril. It has been 
fulfilled at strangely variant moments at the time 
of the Mongol invasion in the thirteenth century, 
and in the nineteenth on the arrival of the Americans 
and Europeans. 

The populace has learned with satisfaction that 
the Tsar has not gone to Moscow to offer Jiis prayers ; 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 93 

they are in any case convinced that the kami of 
Moscow is not as puissant as Amaterasu. 

A second envoy was sent by the Emperor to 
announce the declaration of war to the ancestral 
Manes. He declaimed his message in loud tones, at 
Kudan, in the temple sacred to those soldiers who 
have died for their country, and called the dead to 
witness that the cause for which others were about 
to die was just. 

i$th February. Rumour has to-day signalled the 
presence of a Russian squadron in northern Japanese 
waters. First Fukuyama and then Aminato were 
reported bombarded ; but all this stir was reduced 
to the fact that a merchant vessel, the Nakanoura, 
was sunk by the Russians. 

The newspapers have treated with contumely 
the atrocity of sinking an inoffensive boat, with her 
crew, instead of capturing it. " Russia will pay," 
says the Jiji, " sooner or later, for this capricious 
destruction. We merely draw the attention of 
more civilized strangers to this crime, which is 
contrary to the rules of war, and to the principles 
of humanity." " An act of pure piracy," says the 
Nichi-Nicbi. " The Russians have proved them- 
selves complete barbarians," the Asahi states. 
" They are the Goths and Vandals of the North, 
insensible to shame and defiant of heaven." The 
Kokumin remarks : " Our conduct in regard to 
Russian merchant vessels has been entirely different. 
We have refrained from inflicting the smallest 
injury on the sailors ; indeed, they have been 
surprised at our generosity. In regard to the 
prisoners of war taken at Tchemulpo we have been 
more than generous. We left them free to depart ; 
more we allowed seventy-eight of them to enlist 



94 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

in the volunteer corps for the care of the wounded 
which was organized by our compatriots of 
Tchemulpo. And Russia repays us with these 
acts of horror. But Japan will none the less 
absolutely spurn any idea of reprisals. She would 
disdain to subject non-combatants to such shameful 
treatment." 

The Europeans here are, generally speaking, 
united in their condemnation of this scarcely gallant 
operation of war. 

Togo is the name on all lips, and a legend is fast 
crystallizing around it. " Togo " a Japanese 
friend told me " is completely a hero. You 
remember what he did during the war with China ? 
He fired on his own men ! The Japanese admiral 
was hesitating and the Chinese frankly did not want 
to fight. Togo fired and every one believed it 
to be the Chinese, and the battle was on." Every 
one cites Togo's remarks. His appointment as 
admiral was brought to him when he was ill in bed. 
He instantly rose. " As soon as my foot touches 
deck, I shall be cured." When the fleet sailed, 
a friend asked what message he should convey to 
the admiral's wife. " Nothing, except that I forbid 
her to send me any news of herself." An attitude 
sufficiently Roman, but scarcely to Occidental taste. 
In his first battle, when he was told how badly the 
enemy ships were damaged, his laconic comment 
was : " We will mend them." 

There is instanced a different kind of Roman 
streak in another Japanese. Just as he left for the 
war he divorced his wife. It is a matter easily 
accomplished here ; but he was recently married 
and the couple had been extremely devoted. His 
sole reason for the action was that as he had neither 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 95 

father nor mother, brother nor sister, he wished to 
dedicate himself entirely to the service of his 
country ; and he did not expect to return from the 
war alive. His will bequeathed everything to the 
State. The wife submitted without flinching ; 
one wonders which of the two made the more vital 
sacrifice. 

i^tb February ; Sunday. To-day I have been to 
the Greek church. The Russian Cathedral is by 
far the largest Christian church in Tokyo, and it 
dominates several quarters of the city. If Tokyo 
were not so many worlds from Paris, one could 
compare its position to that of the Sacre-Cceur. 
It stands as a mute witness of the tolerance of the 
Japanese and the energy of a single individual. 

To my rickshaw man it is only necessary to say 
" Nicolai," in order to have him understand my 
destination. The Russian church and the Russian 
faith are equally called by this name in Tokyo. In 
twenty-three years the bishop, Nicolai, who has 
never been able to accustom himself to the co- 
operation of any Russian auxiliary, has created the 
entire colony of churches, pastors and flocks. He 
has converted by his own personal effort more than 
all the united Catholic missionaries, and he had not 
the advantage of building, as they did, on the 
foundations laid amongst the old Christians of 
Nagasaki. His proselytism has taken place against 
the grain of the most unfavourable conditions, for 
the inimical attitude of the Japanese to the Russians 
is a rooted one. 

In the enclosure of the iconostasis I could not 
discern the white beard of the bishop. A Japanese 
pope was officiating, in his heavy cope. One or 
two hundred Japanese, men and women, were 



96 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

grouped about, all the rigidity of their silence 
seeming to hang on the priest and the flaming icons. 

I heard that yesterday Nicolai called together the 
most prominent amongst his parishioners. His 
statement to them was the essence of simplicity. 
He had been unable to decide, he said, to separate 
himself from them and he would leave Japan only 
at their own desire. But he was a subject of the 
Tsar, and he would pray as faithfully for his Emperor 
as they would pray for the Japanese country. If 
they had news of a Japanese victory, it would be 
only fitting since God required of them both 
patriotism and loyalty that they should celebrate 
their thanksgiving in their church. He left the 
issue to a just Heaven, which would judge the cause 
and permit those who deserved it to conquer. 

There must have been a strange contradiction in 
the thoughts of this gathering, and they must have 
had a latent sense of the contradiction in a war 
which opposed their spiritual chief to their legiti- 
mate ruler, the thousand-year-old incarnation of 
their country to the man who represents for them 
the vicar of Christ. One's thoughts travelled to 
the other little Christian communities, of diverse 
names, scattered throughout Japan. It makes the 
situation more touching that the converts have still 
all the first warmth of the apostolic fervour ; they have 
not yet hardened themselves to the habit of invoking 
Sabaoth and singing ^e Deum after a massacre. 

The Japanese have claimed the faculty to trans- 
form and refine whatever they borrow from other 
races. They have made of Buddhism, and particu- 
larly of the Zen sect, a religion of happiness and 
activity and of an equable attitude of soul, and they 
have recognized and nourished in Confucianism a 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 97 

doctrine of spiritual honour as sensitive as the 
Castilian. One wonders what their quick artisan- 
ship will make of Christianity, which as far back as 
the sixteenth century inspired in them a new thirst 
for social justice and a fierce desire for martyrdom. 

There appeared to-day, in an English paper, some 
reflections on the war by M. Uchimura, a Japanese 
Christian. He cannot reconcile himself to the fact 
that nations which call themselves Christian should 
not treat each other as they themselves would be 
treated, and he attributes to this falsity of individual- 
istic pride the unapproachable attitude of Russia 
pending the negotiations. The war, he says, cannot 
terminate without Christians recognizing that a single 
law exists for humanity at large, that respect is due 
to man as man, and that it is a fundamental failure 
to ignore this precept. He attributes the outbreak 
of the conflict to the false patriotism of both 
Russians and Japanese. " Are the Russian and 
Japanese Chauvinists alone responsible ? Certainly 
not. There are English, American and French 
Chauvinists, who, detecting advantages to themselves 
in a quarrel, are only too glad to see two neigh- 
bouring peoples leap at each other's throats. What 
they term their sympathy for Japan or their sympathy 
for Russia is in reality only the product of their 
egoism, and the ineffaceable stigma of their religion. 
There is nothing more worthy of contumely than 
such patriots who name themselves Christians and 
who, to secure an open market for their produce, 
encourage other nations to resort to arms." 

For his own part, he frankly deplores the war. 

He cites in a favourable sense the French proverb : 

" Scratch the Russian and you will find a Tartar." 

" Are not Russians half-Oriental, and are not 

H 



98 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

Japanese half-Occidental ? Are their respective 
missions in Asia not complementary rather than 
contradictory ? Have peoples destined to a high 
collaboration the right to make war on each other ? 
Nothing is of a more frequent occurrence than 
friction between brothers and friends ; the present 
conflict is an additional instance, and we can only 
pray that such a deplorable misunderstanding will be 
shortly terminated." 

In countless ways one can trace, in this country, 
the germs of a reconciliation with Russia. 

i$th February. The actor Kawakami, well known 
by Parisians as the Antoine of Japan, and the husband 
of Sada Yakko, has gone to the front with all his 
troupe and with Sada Yakko herself ; not as a soldier, 
but as an artist who wishes to make certain studies 
from nature. They are going to witness a drama 
which they themselves will reproduce later. Mean- 
while, they will act their heroic plays for the soldiers 
and will install in the front lines their mirrors and 
their rouge-pots. 

The time is opportune for the infusion of a new 
life into theatric art. A theatre at Yokohama has 
already announced a performance of " The Battle 
of Port Arthur." The play had been written before 
the action ; one feels as if this were imagination 
pushed too far. 

Since his disillusions in the political world, 
Kawakami has devoted himself to the reform of the 
heroic theatre. In the future this will necessarily 
also be the realistic theatre. Last year the troupe 
played " Othello," with Othello as a Japanese 
officer and the scene set in Formosa. 

A pickpocket slipped amongst those of his com- 
patriots who entertained Kawakami at Osaka 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 99 

stole the actor's watch. It appears that this was a 
present made to him by the Tsar, during his Russian 
tour. Kawakami announced this fact to the press 
and that he was glad to be relieved of such a souvenir. 
The people of Osaka state that the following day a 
small parcel was left at the actor's house and that the 
thief, having seen the imperial crest on the watch, 
returned it with contempt. 

The reality of the war is now perceptible. At 
every step one meets the little carts which serve as 
furniture-vans. Two or three coverings, a tiny 
wardrobe, a lamp, a brazier, a clock ; this is all. 
Japanese life is lived without furniture. Once the 
head of the household is gone, his family looks for a 
more modest dwelling-place. I fell into talk with a 
woman. She carried a baby on her back and led 
two little girls by the hand ; and on the shoulders 
of the older another little head nodded. She and 
her husband, who is a maker of tiles, had gone as 
colonists to the Hokkaido. They met with poor 
luck, and returned to Tokyo ; now that her husband 
is summoned to the ranks, the woman scarcely knows 
how to live. Some one has been found to take 
charge of her mother-in-law. She herself plans to 
get her bread by making match-boxes, and the old 
woman will earn a pittance by playing the guitar 
in the streets. There seems to be no pressure of 
anxiety in their minds ; indeed, the solidarity of the 
poorer people is one of the most impressive traits of 
Japanese life. In all quarters of the city there have 
been formed societies to care for the families of 
soldiers. The subscriptions to some of these already 
amount to four or five million yen. Ten yen are 
paid to a family for its installation in a new home, and 
in addition four yen for each person above fifteen 



ioo JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

and two yen for each child ; and in addition to this 
there is a service of constant kindness and politeness. 

The patriotism of the poorest is the most fervent 
of all. I saw an old woman bring into the cabin 
which serves as a police station two hundred yen 
as an offering to the government. She explained 
to the sergeant that this represented her savings for 
her old age, but that her days of infirmity were not 
worth so much consideration. Economy, too, can 
scarcely be said to be one of the Japanese virtues. 
It is astonishing that malefactors, with no apparent 
possessions, can give a hundred yen. A special 
office to receive these contributions has been opened 
at the War Office. More than two millions have 
already been deposited there, in great part in 
donations from the very poor. Those who have no 
money bring their mattresses and all they possess 
for the use of the military. Others have only their 
services to give. The rickshaw men carry the 
soldiers without charge ; the men and women 
workers in a great oil refinery have united in the 
decision to work an additional hour each day and 
to give the extra pay they receive to the State. 
The most striking fact of all is the simplicity and 
inevitability with which every Japanese fulfils his 
conception of duty. 

Strangers arouse little resentment ; at Kobe, one 
hears, there is some hostility to the foreigner, but 
here there is definitely apparent an attitude of 
kindness. The foreigners, on their side, have 
contributed to the various war works, and some have 
offered to lodge soldiers. An obscure community 
of sentiment has arisen as a result of the stir of the 
times. Japanese life and thought have a social 
intimacy which are conducive to such sympathy 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 101 

and there is no country where opinion and enthusiasm 
blend more freely. 

Two typical personages fill the pages of the 
popular gazette : a hero of the war with China and 
a Russian spy. The first is famous for having 
dynamited a fort or saved a gun. He is to-day in 
the territorials, and he fills the recruiting offices 
with his clamorous advice to the enlisted men to 
insist that they shall be sent to the front at once. In 
view of his popularity, the administration has to 
appease his ardour with promises of immediate 
action ; and while he waits for his orders, his friends 
offer him sake and listen once again to the tale of 
his exploits. The Russian spy is a Japanese of 
unprepossessing demeanour ; whenever the sus- 
picions concerning him take precise form, he is 
expelled from his quarter of the town and his 
neighbours take upon themselves the maintenance 
of his family. 

1 6th February. We have heard that on the night 
of the 1 4th two Japanese torpedo boats, in a whirl- 
wind of snow, penetrated to the entrance to Port 
Arthur. They torpedoed two vessels, were dis- 
covered, made good their escape, and came back 
safe and whole. 

This kind of audacity is sympathetic to the 
Japanese temperament. They are proud to cite 
the fact that the captain who commanded the 
principal torpedo boat is already famous for his 
taciturnity and his temerity. On the 8th of 
February he reconnoitred the waters at Dalny, to 
search out the Russian fleet, and sailed up almost to 
the edge of the quay. 

The Emperor has set the note of sacrifice for the 
greatest families in the kingdom by depositing in 



102 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

the Bank of Japan his collection of coins and medals. 
He is leaving Tokyo and will take up his residence at 
Kyoto " To change the action of spirits," as a 
Japanese said to me. This is a recognition of the 
subtle mystic ritual which this people so closely 
observes. Like the families of his soldiers, the 
Emperor will reduce his style of living and disavow 
all luxury. During the war with China he lived 
in a cottage at Hiroshima. 

He will have no part in tactical operations or in 
the direction of his armies. He is essentially a 
statesman, whose eminent qualities are discretion, 
tact and good sense, and he is entirely willing that 
his subjects should freely question his capacities as a 
commander. At the last manoeuvres, an official 
report frankly criticized those operations which he 
conducted. 

ijtb February. The annual festival of the fall 
of the first snow. During the night the flakes were 
heavy and thick, but they are dissolving before the 
power of a brilliant sun. The popular mind sees in 
this an image of the dissolution of white Russia's 
strength before the flag with the red orb. From 
the heights of Atagoyama, crowds have been watch- 
ing the fragile grace of the country shining under 
its white veils ; the more fortunate have chanced 
to surprise the miracle of February a flowering 
plum branch beneath the snow, or a nightingale 
stirring into flight with the tip of its wing a flake as 
perfect as a petal. 

iSth February. The popular journals publish 
daily caricatures which can scarcely be called 
artistic. Japan has no longer a Kyosai. Some of 
the drawings are alive, however, with the vivid 
Japanese spirit. 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 103 

The yose are the little public rooms where people 
gather, each evening, to sit about on mats, sip their 
tea, and listen to the most popular reciters. The 
speaker kneels on a raised platform. He makes at 
the outset his profound salutation, crouched like a 
frog and leaning on his outspread palms. The 
movement of the tale he tells flows to the ceaseless 
movement of his fan. There are both serious and 
comic speakers, but all have an admirable art of 
mimicry. They weave for the audience a fabric of 
brilliant diversity, history flavoured with tart 
personalities, old tales, romances whose rich re- 
dundancies spread over the course of several even- 
ings, accounts of travel accented with the oddity of 
burlesque, stories full of a sly suggestiveness or of the 
gaiety of impossible exaggeration, and embroideries 
of comment on the happenings of the day. 

To-night the Amanosetsu who fought in the war 
with China told with an easy art an episode of that 
war. At the end of the silence which followed 
his final bow he announced, in another tone, that 
he was about to leave for the present front, in order 
to bring back impressions of it to his faithful public. 
There was a flattering murmur and one foresaw 
that the laurels of Kawakami would be divided. 

iqtb February. The sailors of the English and 
Italian warships which have just arrived have had 
the most cordial of receptions. For the first time 
I saw Tokyo swayed by a popular demonstration. 
One's thoughts went back to a reception of Russian 
sailors in Paris, eleven years ago ; except that, since 
the kiss is unknown as a salutation in Japan, the 
mousmes did not show the same gaiety of enthusiasm 
as the French girls did in greeting the sailors. The 
Japanese people are at one of those periods of crisis 



104 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

where they feel the need to express affection. 
Every stranger was hailed with the cry of " Banzai ! 
banzai ! " and all were taken for English or Italians 
indiscriminately. The smallest shopkeeper has hung 
out his flags in their honour. 

An essentially Japanese spectacle was arranged for 
the visitors in the park of Hibiya. This was a 
wrestling match, of no ordinary character. The 
champions of the East and the West, Hitachi-Yama 
and Megatani, gave such an exhibition as one 
ordinarily sees only once a year. They looked more 
than ever monstrous, as they stood naked side by 
side, and seemed more than ever an enigma amongst 
the delicate Japanese. Megatani was a mountain of 
reddish flesh, with a face scarcely human ; Hitachi- 
Yama, hardly less inhuman, his skin blotched and 
his eyes bloodshot. Before the match they stood 
tensely bowed over each other, in a motionless 
salute, and when, at the signal, the gigantic strain 
of effort began, their breath came with sharp sound 
of whistles. Megatani, by his actual immensity of 
weight, conquered his adversary ; and one felt that 
the sailor lads crouched in the front lines had taken 
away with them a singularly brutal vision of so fine 
a race. 

In the splendid evening sky there are flashing the 
fireworks which, as they burst into stars, scatter on 
Tokyo the flags of three nations. The crowd is so 
closely packed that it flows with the smooth move- 
ment of water. When a petard falls in its midst, 
the people neither flinch nor cry out, and the smoke 
of the powder rises harmlessly above their heads. 
This mastery of the nerves, at even the unimportant 
moments, stands out as an essential quality of the 
Japanese. 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 105 

2otb February. The Emperor has received the 
first trophy a Russian flag from the Varyag^ 
captured at Tchemulpo, and the fruit of a scarcely 
glorious action. It has been given to the Military 
Museum, and to-day it is hung at the great door, 
in view of all the city. The crowd passes, as serious 
and as perfect in deportment as usual, in spite of 
its ardour. Every one pauses to read the inscription 
and to comment politely, wanders for a moment 
into the park, and then gravely returns to admire 
the blue cross of St. Andrew on a white ground and 
the holes torn by the explosion of the Varyag. 

In the park itself, and beneath the cherry-trees 
where the idle divert themselves, the air has already 
the melodious suavity of spring. The vendors are 
peddling their tempting delicacies tiny cakes 
moulded by hand and sea-weeds of all colours, 
clinging to scraps of rock. Every now and then a 
man approaches the temple sacred to the memory 
of fallen soldiers and bends his head in a brief 
prayer. Here and there is the bright red of the 
imperial guard, which has imitated the French red 
trousers. On the platform reserved for women who 
have taken religious vows, a priest dressed in white is 
striking, in a grotesque rhythm, a painted drum, to 
the delight of an audience of children. A sense of 
the perpetual exclusion of the foreigner comes over 
one once more : is this a vulgarized liturgy, or a 
cheap show raised to the rank of a ritual ? 

21 st February. There is a story current that at 
Tchemulpo a Japanese torpedo boat has been 
penetrated by shot ; but no paper mentions it. 
It appears that the funnel was pierced and that 
during the night the Japanese sawed it off. 

22nd February. M. Inoue Tetsujiro, the doyen 



106 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

of the Faculty of Letters, is at once a scientist, a 
philosopher and the founder of a new form of 
religion. He has studied in Paris with Jules Simon, 
Vacherot, Caro, Ravaisson and Paul Janet. He is 
no less conversant with the minds of contemporary 
philosophers in Germany, England and the United 
States, and in this country which is in reality a vast 
library he is noted as the man whose reading has 
been the most extensive and the most diverse. One 
would define him as one of the authorized exponents 
of Japanese thought. Against the walls of the vast 
room where he received me there were piled stacks 
of thin Japanese volumes, and ranged amongst them 
the heavy bindings of the West. The chief furnish- 
ing of the room was a long table on trestles, and the 
air was full of the charm of the austerity of erudition. 
In spite of his doctoral frock coat, M. Inoue is as 
instinct with vitality as a hawk. He was entirely 
willing to talk of the war. It would be, he averred, 
a great moral lesson, and first of all for Russia. 
Russia had violated a solemn pact to which she had 
freely consented. She would have to learn, and to 
her cost, that good faith is obligatory even in dealing 
with the nations of Far Asia. 

I ventured to suggest that this seemed scarcely to 
dispose of the present instance. But he took me up : 

" But this is an instance of international morality. 
If a contract is violated to the hurt of one race, it 
is violated to the hurt of all. This war may have 
superficial causes of superficial interests, but it is 
based on a clear case of justice and injustice. Japan 
has it keenly on her conscience that she is protecting 
international right. For us, too, the war will be a 
lesson in political morality. If we are victorious, 
as we hope, it will be because of the vital force of 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 107 

our liberal institutions. We owe more to the 
propulsive power of their ideas than to our armies. 
The thesis of the military order defends, as a rule, 
an absolutism of power ; we know, on the contrary, 
that only a principle of liberty can create the 
conscious unanimity of a nation. Because our 
opinions circulate as freely as air, we have no internal 
revolt to fear. In 1894 the Chinese Minister 
informed his government that, since Japan was torn 
by parliamentary dissensions, it was the propitious 
moment for an attack. The futility of his conclu- 
sion was proven. The spirit of the entire country 
rose in a flame such as even our ancient shoguns 
never saw. To-day it is the same. Thanks to our 
recognition of liberty and eliminating a very 
restricted group of neo-Christians and socialists 
the same unanimity exists at present. Liberty is 
with us " M. Inoue made the allusion to the 
" Marseillaise " with a smile " and she will fight 
with her defenders." 

" But if Japan vanquishes a European power, 
will she be as likely to wish to draw her inspiration 
from Europe ? " 

" Unfailingly so. Neither our religions nor our 
traditional doctrines can throw up a barrier against 
progress. Our Shintoism is too summary, our 
Buddhism is fading into superstition, our Con- 
fucianism is incompatible with a liberal regime. 
We do not need Europe's Christianity, but we do 
need her scientific methods and the new social ideal 
which she is elaborating." 

And the professor, arrived at last at his favourite 
thesis, wandered delightfully into an exposition of 
the future religion of humanity. 

26th February. A day of false rumours. An 



108 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

official Russian despatch announces that four 
Japanese armoured cruisers and two transports have 
been destroyed at Port Arthur. I strolled through 
the principal streets to see the impression which 
this announcement of disaster had produced. The 
gogai, without commentary, was posted on the shop 
doors and on the telegraph poles. The passers-by 
read it with no break in the surface of their habitual 
serenity, and with their perpetual smile. Is it that 
they totally lack the sensitiveness of nerves, or that 
they have a self-confidence which is impregnable ? 

At eight in the evening there arrived a corrected 
version of the story. Five transports, in imitation 
of the Merrimac which was sunk to block the Gulf 
of Santiago, sank themselves, or were sunk, in an 
attempt to block the approach to Port Arthur, 
which the Japanese squadron has bombarded. This 
gogai is posted above that of this morning ; and, 
as this morning, the people read it calmly, without 
any manifest feeling, and with the same eternal 
quality in their smile. 

Seventy-seven men were called for to navigate 
the ships to be sunk and the torpedo boats charged 
with the work of rescue. More than two thousand 
volunteered, and one deliberately cut his finger 
and wrote the application with his blood. 

2jth February. The benevolent society of my 
neighbourhood has posted the following notice : 

1. This will be the longest war Japan has ever 
known. It is, therefore, essential that every possible 
economy shall be practised. 

2. No matter how many successive Japanese 
victories are announced, do not permit yourself any 
rejoicing. There will be no veritable victory until 
the war is won. 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 109 

3. Except for war expenses, deprive yourselves of 
everything. 

4. No houses should be built and there should 
be no money spent on marriages, funerals or other 
ceremonies. 

5. If a contagious malady should appear, it would 
require a heavy cost to arrest its progress ; it is, 
therefore, essential that every one shall take the 
requisite care of his health. 

2yth February. The prints of war subjects are 
making the shop windows brilliant. About a 
hundred have already been published. On the 
tossed violet of waves a burning ship smoulders, 
and in the long rose streak of its reflection a black 
torpedo boat slinks away. Another shows a blind- 
ing snow, composed of particles of shattered plaster, 
and a group of blue blouses crowding about a 
cannon ; the faces grimace in their excitement and 
in the background, in a pale vermilion light, a boat 
is on fire. The theme of the imaginative treat- 
ment of a naval combat is varied in countless ways. 

The crowds gather before these prints and 
examine them in a silence of concentration. The 
artists fulfil the part of educators. One of the 
newspapers has complained that the depiction is 
too flattering to the Japanese, and demands a more 
realistic respect of truth. 

.ist March. The new war romances have ap- 
peared, in their bright bindings. They arrest the 
eye literally at every step, for there are more book- 
shops in a Tokyo street than in the length and 
breadth of Spain. The titles are displayed every- 
where : " In the Mists of Tchemulpo," " Let us 
die for our Country," " The Old Officer," " The 
Offering to the Dead," " The House of Admiral 



i io JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

Yamanaka." These stories appear in instalments, 
and the plots will be modified according to the 
course of events. Some publishers have their cor- 
respondents with the armies at the front. One 
sees the war legend develop, in all the fire and heat 
of actuality. 

2nd March. It is the culminating moment of 
the exquisiteness of the plum-trees. A group of 
poets and enthusiasts scatters like flowers in the 
orchards of Kameido. This year the appreciation 
of the beauty of blossoms and scents is heightened 
by the pride of civic emotion. The fervent de- 
votees are more numerous, and they tell me that 
the movable tea equipages have rented twice as 
dearly as last year. 

Wrinkled old men, with wisdom in their seared 
faces, and floating geishas are seated side by side 
on the gold-coloured mats. Since all the young 
men are at the war, the looks of tenderness from 
the women's dark eyes rise and lose themselves in 
the clouds. One fancies that this surplus of feeling 
without direction saturates the delicate air and 
lingers in the intoxicating spring odour. 

In a frame of dark surrounding pines are crouched 
a knot of bent, worm-eaten plum-trees, shining in 
their brief radiance. They are broken and blackened, 
and crutches have been arranged to support their 
infirmity. But all the length of their old inter- 
twined arms the white flowers ripple, so that the 
dark branches seem saturated in a sparkling mist. 
Each tree has its degrees of whiteness, from snow to 
ivory, and the clinging scent which they breathe 
out impregnates one's clothes. 

Some strange incongruity struck me in a geisha 
with a magnificent sash : suddenly I realized that 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM in 

she wore her hair in a European knot, instead of in 
the high Japanese fashion. The girl with whom 
she talked and all her neighbours did the same. 
On inquiry I was told that they had given up their 
usual head-dress as too costly, and that the economy 
thus achieved was to go as a subscription to the 
war fund. There was something peculiarly poignant 
in this sacrifice of personal beauty for the love of 
country. 

yd March. To-day is a festival consecrated to 
little girls. The tiny mousmes make a grave effort 
at sacrifice, since their brothers and their friends 
are subjected to the dangers of war. They have 
been instructed not to give way to laughter. Their 
dolls must wear their last year's dresses, and the 
contents of their little savings banks will be given 
to the Society of Nurses. 

At the top of three elevations of red lacquer, on 
a mat bound in silk, are placed images of the Emperor 
and Empress ; a little lower, a prince and a princess, 
and lower still five musicians. Between them 
stand some porcelain jars, some plates of sweets 
and a minute set of furniture. Lanterns, on their 
slim, tall pedestals; complete the decoration. Two 
young girls advanced with a slowly measured grace, 
carrying flowering branches, while the little children, 
in their sumptuous dresses, fixedly watched them, 
and I and a Japanese friend, crouched in a corner, 
discussed the war and heated our fingers over the 
brazier. Mademoiselle Suzu, the eldest daughter, 
was directly in front of the little shrine. She made 
her reverential bow, struck her hands gently to- 
gether and began her prayer ; the altar was so low 
that she had to kneel, and in the act the whiteness 
of her bare leg shone underneath her robe. 



ii2 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

There is no Japanese family so poor that they 
have not to-day celebrated, before these clay images, 
this rite which is immemorial. 

^th March. All of the theatrical spectacles of 
Tokyo are based on the war, from those in the 
important theatres to those in the rough wooden 
booths where one can see a Russian shot for a penny. 
My interpreter recommended to me a certain 
popular theatre where, as he said, the public was 
as dramatic as the actors. Huddled in our little 
box, we found ourselves surrounded by voluble 
patriots, who gorged themselves plentifully, and 
who, in the intervals of their noisy laughter, gulped 
down their sake and worked up their enthusiasm 
to excite the actors. The warmed flagons followed 
each other in quick succession, as their contents 
disappeared into the little round cups, and wand- 
like sticks were used to eat from the lacquer boxes 
which are full of rice and fried eels. 

There is no attempt to present a consecutive 
story, but rather a review which represents the 
various daily happenings recorded in the news- 
papers. I was particularly struck by the fact that 
the spectacle turned so often on many of those 
instances of the selective action of conscience which 
the Japanese so like to discuss, subtle moralists as 
they are. A publisher recently announced a forth- 
coming treatise on casuistry, as inspired by the 
war : he could have gathered many of its elements 
here. 

A Japanese woman of Manchuria, for instance, is 
supposed to be the " femme des yeux" or mekake, 
of a Russian officer. She explains her case to the 
audience ; the officer has showered on her count- 
less kindnesses, he loves her, she loves him, and he 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 113 

has every confidence in her. In a bureau of her 
house there are certain secret maps of the general 
staff ; can she, and should she, steal them ? Does 
patriotism nullify the personal duties ? The 
audience shouts to her its affirmation : she opens 
the bureau and flees with the maps. In three or 
four other scenes spying is glorified in this same 
manner ; and I recollected, as I watched them, a 
woman who was asked, some months since, for news 
of her son and who responded, with a simplicity of 
pride : " He is a spy in Manchuria." 

Another little human problem was represented 
by the meeting of two soldiers. The one accuses 
the other of wearing a torn and soiled shirt ; the 
second retorts that it is good enough to attract a 
Russian ball. This reply was greeted with applause, 
but more still follows. The first speaker reminds 
his friend that after a battle the dead are rifled and 
that it is the pride of a Japanese soldier to be found 
with clean linen. At this the enthusiasm was 
unbounded. 

Everyday happenings were pictured, naturally 
and without ornamentation, without too accentu- 
ated an imagination, and with a highly picturesque 
realism. At the call of the reservists, one saw a 
pedlar of boiled vegetables receive his marching 
orders in the street. He dropped the two wooden 
saws he carried and ran to the barracks, crying, 
" Banzai ! " The prefect of police approached, 
in his black overcoat and his white gloves, and 
asked why the saws had been left to obstruct the 
street ; and, when the passers-by explained the 
matter, he picked them up and walked off balancing 
them on his shoulder. 

In a neighbouring house, a carpenter who was 
i 



ii 4 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

going off was grieved to leave his wife at the point 
of childbirth. The neighbours all assured him of 
their care of her, in his absence ; but when the 
moment of departure struck the woman began to 
feel the first pains. The wildest confusion was 
represented ; every one ran here and there, seeking 
for the grandfather, the grandmother and the mid- 
wife. The birth of the child was supposed to take 
place behind a partition of paper. The old grand- 
father tremulously hurried to bring hot water and 
the grandmother livened the coals of the fire by 
blowing on them through a pipe and exhaling the 
smoke through her nostrils. The detail was as 
fine as that of a Dutch picture. All the populace 
of the street is gathered at the door, while the 
poor husband drags on his uniform and calls out 
to know if the child is born ; and just as he is on 
the doorstep a cry comes from behind the screen 
and the grandfather runs out to him with the tiny 
bundle of pink flesh. There are tears and laughter, 
and all the audience shouts : " Banzai ! " 

Another scene showed another street of Tokyo 
and a lodging-house for soldiers. Here there 
passed changing pictures of every form of Japanese 
life. One saw children playing at war ; the pur- 
veyor of military supplies, who made his rations too 
scant ; the coolie who had brought a soldier in his 
cart and who refused to accept a fee ; the villager 
leading his horse and whispering in his ear so that 
he should not shy; the hero of the Civil War, 
bringing to his son the family sabre. A bonze came 
to offer the soldiers medals of good fortune ; there 
was a gossipy old countrywoman, searching for her 
son without knowing where he lodged. The car- 
penter's wife hurried up with her new-born child, 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 115 

and was stopped by an officer, correct and cold in 
manner ; but as she dropped on her knees, holding 
out the infant, he made a grimace to -wink away a 
tear, took the child and let her pass. 

The setting then changed to represent the in- 
terior of the house and the common-room of the 
soldiers. Seated or curled up on the floor, they 
were smoking and drinking, chatting or drawing, 
while the sergeant read aloud the daily papers. 
In a whining voice he declaimed the Tsar's declara- 
tion of war, interrupted by flashes of laughter and 
by quips, most of which flew back to the performers 
from the audience. On the introduction of the 
word " God," every one rocked with amusement. 
Then the soldiers rose and stood in line, with their 
heads bent, and to the solemn chant of the No the 
sergeant recited the declaration of war of the 
Japanese Emperor. After the tensity of silence, 
all the spectators burst into the cry of " Banzai ! " 
and then dissolved again into gaiety. A soldier 
who is a fishmonger exhibited the knife which is 
the weapon of his trade and with which he ex- 
pected to cut Russian noses and ears. Leaping 
from one end of the stage to the other, he made 
use of his comrades to give a startling demonstra- 
tion. The laughter had a sudden sound of ferocity : I 
wondered into what wasp's nest I had thrust myself. 
Then the tone of feeling happily changed. A 
soldier had composed a poem, and he sang it in a 
voice still full of the uncertainty of adolescence ; 
another soldier seized a fan and executed a war 
dance ; and the audience whispered that this was 
a real reservist and that the uniform which the 
actor wore was rightfully his. 

The remainder of the spectacle represented the 



n6 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

naval battle. There were reproduced the episode 
of the soldier whose hand was torn off and who 
picked it up, and of the officer who, mortally 
wounded, refused to allow his boots to be removed, 
so that he might be ready to resume his post. 
The scene darkened and on a white curtain the 
cinema flung the picture of the half-sunk Varyag. 
A great wave flowed over the wreckage, and the 
patriotic intoxication reached its height. And, as 
an ending, one saw the dynamiting of a tunnel on 
the Vladivostok line, which was this morning's 
news : if this is not authenticated to-day, it will 
perhaps shortly be accomplished. 

$th March. The Japanese Socialists deserve some 
analysis. With three or four neo-Christians, they 
form what is up to now the sole group frankly 
hostile to the war. The excellent notation con- 
cerning them in the bulletin of the Ecole d'Extreme- 
Orient, edited for Japan by M. Cl.-E. Maitre, 
reports that the socialistic doctrine was imported, 
some years since, from San Francisco. It was at 
first a literary and philosophic movement, but the 
organization of workmen's syndicates gave it a 
practical base of action. During all of the im- 
mediately preceding year (1903) the Socialists have 
carried on active propaganda by means of meetings 
and of publications, and there has been ceaseless 
friction between them and the police. They have 
sought to establish international socialistic relations. 
In Japan they have the co-operation of several 
influential neo-Christians, notably Schimada Saburo, 
the deputy from Yokohama, and Takahashi Goro, 
the author of a text -book of Socialism. They have 
their Thomas Morus and their Bellamy, in the person 
of Yano Fumio, whose Utopian book, The New 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 117 

Society, made a wide stir ; they will possibly 
find their Blanqui in Oi Kentaro, a man of swift 
decisive action, who, with twenty companions, tried 
as early as 1885 to instigate revolution in Corea and 
was imprisoned by the Japanese government. The 
principal socialistic leader is Katayama Sen, the 
author of two books, Municipal Socialism and Our 
Socialism, and director of the Socialistic Review, 
Sbakwai Sbugi. 

I chanced to buy the last issue of this publication. 
Its exposition of principles is intermixed, as one 
expects, with personal polemics. An article en- 
titled " Reflections on the War " contends that 
Japan has not a single original idea to disseminate 
throughout the world ; that neither its religion 
nor its morality, nor its material civilization, are 
of such a quality that they are worthy to be im- 
posed by force, and that conquest for the sake of 
conquering is not an achievement. The present 
war is claimed to be without basic justification and 
without the inspiration of an aim : " The Japanese, 
we admit, are powerfully developed in the art of 
war. They destroy large vessels and even small 
ones. They are exceedingly brave. All Japan has 
yielded to the insidious charm of victory. If, 
however, we compare the Russians and the Japanese, 
we must compute not only their relative accomplish- 
ment in the military art, but also their accomplish- 
ment in scientific and general fields. One cannot 
claim that Japan is great, merely because of the 
courage of her army. Some higher quality than 
this must exist to assure a domination of the world. 
This quality might well be religion ; but the 
Japanese religion is decayed and practically dead. 
It might also be an economic system; but, while 



ii8 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

progressive industrial men should have no concern 
with Ministers or Kings, ours are subservient to 
the government. Nor can we claim that our 
morality is fit for imposition on other peoples. The 
spirit of fraternity, formerly so powerful amongst 
us, grows poorer day by day, and this is the single 
human sentiment which can conquer the world. 
We have seen many reservists part from their wives 
an act intrinsically against nature ; they feigned 
bravery in order to win applause. To summarize, 
our priests, our industrial leaders and our soldiers 
think only of pleasing the crowd, and Japan has 
not a single great principle to show the world." 
One must admit that there is a touch of force, of 
generosity and of courage in these contentions. 

Another Socialist Review, the Heimin Sbimbun 
a paper more for the crowd declares, in good 
Japanese and with an English translation, what 
attitude the Socialist Party will take in regard to 
the war : " We Socialists have maintained a firm 
opposition to the general clamour in favour of the 
war and we have done our best to make known our 
attitude by speech and by publication. To-day, 
with the people losing their heads over the naval 
victories, this attitude remains unchanged. The 
enthusiasm grows from day to day and every one 
is now prepared to give the government all the 
money it needs. No one thinks of the disastrous 
consequences which will inevitably follow. Even 
the labouring classes refuse to see how deplorable 
the war is for them : they persist in their vision 
that some undefined amelioration of their lives will 
come out of the present ominous crisis. It seems 
as if they were stupefied by an intoxicant. A man 
who is suffering from cold can warm himself for an 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 119 

instant with whisky; but his suffering returns as 
soon as the effect of the alcohol has passed. It is 
the duty of Socialists to remain dispassionate and 
to judge matters impartially. Was the Russo- 
Japanese war really inevitable ? Is it actually true 
that the independence of Japan is menaced if the 
Russian forces are not expelled from Manchuria ? 
Is it not always the case that war brings profit to a 
small number of capitalists, while it is sheer loss to 
the proletariat ? As long as these queries remain 
unanswered, we cannot justify the conflict in which 
we are engaged." 

jth March. A condemned man who was hanged 
the day before yesterday had hoarded two yen. 
The jailer urged him to spend them in a final feast, 
but the good fellow, in his patriotism, left the two 
yen to the government which decreed his death. 

The situation presents many opportunities for 
citing the philosophy of history. Uchimura Kanzo 
has stated the following as the philosophy of Japan's 
political action : " In a word, it must be that of 
the Hungarians and not of the Turks. We are 
Mongols, a detached branch of the Altaic tribes ; 
we have no need to deprecate this origin, for we 
know that no ethnic past can disbar either a man 
or a nation from the attainment of the highest 
ideals. It is civilization and not heredity which is 
determinant in the destiny of peoples." M. Uchi- 
mura is a Christian and a man of powerful mentality. 
He knows that he himself came originally from 
Central Asia ; and he does not believe himself 
descended from Amaterasu and does not contend 
that the other nations are issue of the excrement of 
Susanowo. 

" Japan, in her position as representative of the 



120 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

Orient, should not seek to orientalize the world. 
The Turk tried it, and in spite of his initial suc- 
cesses he remains the sick man of the East. The 
Hungarian, also of Oriental origin and a cousin of 
the Turk, has done otherwise ; and to-day his 
prosperity attests his wisdom. John Hunyade fought 
his Turkish brothers in defence of European civiliza- 
tion ; and he thus saved Europe and Hungary itself. 
If the Hungarians were traitors to their race, they 
were faithful to the civilization which they had 
adopted. Their case is one of those in which it is 
necessary to desert one's parents in order to enter 
into the kingdom of progress. 

" The Yellow Peril of which certain Europeans 
speak springs from their fear that Japan may play, 
on a larger scale, the same part essayed by Turkey. 
Millions of Chinese, armed by Japan, dance before 
their terrified vision, and they hasten to prepare to 
defend themselves against this danger. The futility 
of their effort is apparent, since if such an incursion 
were to come to pass no European nation could 
resist it. A Gengis-Khan, with his soldiers armed 
with Murata guns, would oversweep everything. 
But " the tone of the statement changed in a way 
that relieved what had been, I admit, my fear 
" this is exactly illustrative of the responsibilities 
of Japan and of her need of a noble self-control. 
As the vigilant guardian of the East, it is her task 
to forbid any encroachment by a barbaric power ; 
but as the author of European civilization in the 
Orient she should never permit a revulsion, in her 
associate nations or in herself, against that civiliza- 
tion, which is the life of humanity. In the midst 
of the future glories that await her, she must never 
forget that her present glory is due to the civiliza- 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 121 

tion which she received from the West ; that if her 
geographical situation is Oriental, her actual affinities 
are with the West, and that a nation is made of 
spirit and not of flesh." 

Three weeks ago M. Uchimura was hostile to 
the war. He regarded the Russians as Mongol 
brothers. To-day he differentiates and distinguishes 
the living elements of the struggle, but his generous 
spirituality remains the same. 

2$th March. The extreme apprehension of the 
first month has almost disappeared. One news- 
paper gives the name of hysterics to the people 
who sacrifice their family treasures to the cause 
and who live in an ascetic frugality. The most 
ardent patriots have no longer so combative an air, 
nor do they seem keyed up to so keen an anxiety. 
Little by little the music of the guitars sounds less 
muffled. 

It is remarkable that the single uncertainty ap- 
parent in Japan since the outbreak of the war has 
to do with the question of finance. The eventuality 
of defeat has never been mentioned and it seems 
never to have suggested itself to the majority of the 
Japanese. It is because of the universal certitude 
of victory that the country seems so perfectly 
united. 

One of the two principal factions, the Seiya-Kai or 
constitutional party, announced that it could not 
reconcile itself with the Cabinet, whose interior 
and foreign policy and whose absolutist tendencies 
it condemned ; but that in the name of the un- 
animity of the nation it would not force any active 
opposition. The second party, the Shimpoto or 
the progressive group, declared its position on the 
same basis. The parliamentary sessions, which began 



122 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

five days ago, have thus been exempt from discus- 
sion and occupied almost entirely by votes of 
approbation. 

The perfection of this discipline has been achieved, 
it is true, by mutual concessions. The opening of 
the Chambers was preceded by a series of confer- 
ences between the members of the Cabinet and the 
party leaders, and there were sharp debates before 
a compromise was reached. The Cabinet was 
forced to forego several features of its programme. 
It was able to impose the monopoly on tobacco, 
but the monopoly on salt a vexatious tax which 
produced little revenue was rejected. The great 
tobacco dealers defended their case hotly ; the 
press has carried on an enthusiastic campaign in 
their favour, and they have succeeded in augment- 
ing the indemnity accorded to them. The agri- 
culturalists have forced a reduction in the proposed 
increase of the land tax ; the silk manufacturers 
have managed to evade a new tax on silk. At the 
cost of great effort the party leaders have obtained 
a ruling from the government that extraordinary 
taxes shall not be conserved for more than a year 
after the war ; but it was only on the night of the 
2Oth of March, after the solemn opening of Parlia- 
ment by the Emperor, that definite accord was 
established on all these points. 

With such prearrangements the official sessions, 
which are short meetings of an hour before a selected 
public, have reflected the " unanimity of the nation." 
The Ministers read academic discourses and con- 
gratulations were sent to the fleet. The various 
articles of the budget were arbitrarily voted ; and, 
to crown the patriotic enthusiasm, a deputy accused 
one o* his colleagues of having sold himself to 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 123 

Russia. No serious accusation could be furnished 
against the pretended spy, but such is the mental 
sensibility of public assemblies in war time that he 
was immediately proscribed, with imprecations. 

2tyh March. Lieutenant Hirose, who tried to 
block the entrance to Port Arthur, was to come 
here to give, concerning his exploit, a lecture 
which now will never take place. He renewed his 
attempt and was killed. The papers publish his 
biography and cite him as a national hero. It 
appears that he was a lover of art and spoke English, 
French and Russian. In this cultured man it is 
surprising to find a certain mystical veneration of 
monarchy. At an official ceremony the Empress 
once shook hands with him, in the Occidental 
fashion ; and he preserved the gloves he had worn 
and wished to die, as he said, wearing them. 

$ist March. .Japanese officials and American 
residents here have celebrated the fiftieth anni- 
versary of the landing from American ships on the 
Japanese coast, an event which determined the 
advent of Western civilization. Imposing speeches 
have been made on the subject. One of the 
deputies, M. Shimada, declared in the heat of 
his ardour that Japan had definitely adopted the 
Anglo-Saxon type of civilization, characterized by 
the love of liberty, equality and progress. Count 
Okuma, who is more attached to the old Japan, 
analysed in a subtle speech the proportionate in- 
fluences of the interaction of American ideas. He 
defended the policy of a closed door, established by 
Seyasu at a time when Europe ceased her religious 
wars only long enough to dismember herself in the 
Thirty Years' War. " This policy assured to Japan 
a peace of more than two centuries, in the security 



124 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

of which there developed a renascence of the literary 
art, a progressive commercial growth, and a marvel- 
lous increase of public prosperity." He recalled 
the fact that long before the arrival of Commodore 
Perry, medicine, botany, astronomy and other 
branches of Western science had been introduced 
by the Dutch of Nagasaki. From the beginning 
to the end of his speech he combated the idea that 
a mystical stroke by a magic wand had been given 
to Japan by the West. 

Since this legend has become common property 
in its misapprehension and will be repeated to the 
point of satiety during the present war, it is well 
to recollect how much exaggeration it contains. 
In 1854 J a P an was inferior, in general culture, to 
no European country; it was superior to most of 
them. At this time Europe had the advantage 
only in a certain number of practical inventions, 
made in the previous thirty years, and in the fact 
that some nations had established constitutional 
government. Japan had her first railway in 1874; 
France had had hers thirty-seven years earlier. The 
difference is scarcely a formidable one ; and if the 
new method of transportation seemed strange to 
Japan, it was no less so to the France of Louis- 
Philippe. The Japanese government was made 
constitutional in 1889; this can hardly be called 
an excessive delay in progress, as compared with 
that of other nations ; and the country was not 
less prepared for this form of administration than 
the France of Louis XV or the Austria of Metter- 
nich. In a word, Japan, with her civilization equal 
to, and of older origin than, European civilization, 
consistently ignored Europe as long as she con- 
sidered that Europe had nothing important to 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 125 

teach her. She adopted European innovations 
almost as soon as they appeared. This does not 
seem extraordinary. The new Japan and the old 
are not in a more marked opposition than the new 
and old phases of any given European country. 

Osaka, 2nd April. The castle of Osaka is re- 
markable for its mass. It is noteworthy that while 
most things in Japan are small and on a small 
scale, when they are large they reach the pro- 
portions of the gigantic. An entire quarter of the 
town is contained in the first enclosure. The 
massive walls, with their deep projecting angles, 
recall the fever of enthusiasm for such construction 
which beset the Japanese when they had learned 
from the Portuguese the art of building fortresses. 
Stone buildings were then a complete innovation to 
them. Yet this colossal citadel was raised in two 
years one wonders how. 

The scale of the castle evokes the people who 
lived in it and the master mind which ordered its 
construction. In the sixteenth century the nation 
was energetic, adventurous, brutal, rich in blood 
and muscle, worthy of the praise of Stendhal or 
of Taine. From Osaka there set out the great 
expedition to invade Corea, the single one made 
by the Japanese before 1894 outside of their own 
territory. Three hundred thousand men were 
launched in the adventure, as many, it may be, as 
will be involved in this Russo-Japanese war. There 
was no real motive for the invasion. Neither 
Corea nor China threatened Hideyoshi. The war 
was a direct consequence of the acquisition of new 
armaments, and was necessitated by the frenzied 
prodigality of the times. Each New Year's Day 
the daimyo were required to transport to Osaka 



126 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

mounds of gold, and Hideyoshi, on his part, main- 
tained the fidelity of his followers only by a cease- 
less distribution of fiefs and of goods. " Their 
desire for gain was limitless," says a Japanese his- 
torian, " but the power to satisfy it was circum- 
scribed by the size of the country. Thus, Hide- 
yoshi was forced to award to his generals recom- 
penses to be conquered in foreign lands." The 
Japanese conquistadores flung themselves upon the 
peninsula at the time when the pillaging soldiers of 
Spain were sacking all of their known world. But 
they were confronted by what to-day the Russians 
supremely lack by an admiral of genius. The 
Corean admiral invented to combat them those 
famous tortoise-like boats, covered with iron plates 
and able to advance from either end, which were 
the first armoured ships. He succeeded in cutting 
the communications of the would-be conquerors ; 
and the expedition to Corea terminated like Bona- 
parte's expedition to Egypt. 

To-day the enormous fortress is again sending 
forth soldiers for the conquest of the continent. 
The very stir of the horses in their stalls sounds as 
if they were restless to be off and across Siberia. 
The same nervous energy runs throughout the 
men, and one feels that its inspiration comes from 
that old land of carnage, Europe. 

yd April. The festival of the apotheosis of the 
first Emperor, the founder of Japan. To-night a 
Russian boat was burnt in effigy. From the window 
of my inn I could see the rapid passage of lanterns, 
as fleeting as the sound of guitars, on the black 
water. They are the geisha boats, and each lantern 
cast on the water a bar of tremulous gold. When 
the fire of the supposed Russian ship burst forth, 



JAPANESE PATRIOTISM 127 

all the river flamed into light and on the other 
bank a great shout rose from a vast invisible crowd. 

jtb-Sth April. One can go from Osaka to 
Hiroshima by water through the Japanese archi- 
pelago ; the boat drops down the river, between 
the hedges of high caravels, and then stops, one by 
one, at every little port. The inner sea of Japan 
is like our Mediterranean set in a garden. Even 
at night one traces the wonders and surprises of 
the coast and its beauty penetrates one's sleep. 
At dawn new islands emerge in the light, some 
leafy and some arid. The morning mist suspends 
the mountains in the sky, as they appear in the 
kakemono. Little by little each village, each beach, 
and each watering-place grows precise in detail and 
the extravagant lines of the twisted pines dis- 
sociate themselves from the grey rocks. At every 
loveliest point there is a temple. Here and there 
rises from the sea a flowery cluster of trees, clinging 
to a frail islet of sand ; and we floated past the 
dreaming fishing-boats where entire families spend 
their lives, crouched about a tiny fire. 

At one place the sea narrows to the dimensions 
of a wide river and one can see the tomb of that 
Kiyomori who, in the twelfth century, was tyrant 
of the archipelago. The incessant warfare between 
the pirates of these islands once created here a 
great naval power, which was the rival of the feudal 
power established in the north in the plain of 
Kamalura. Sailors fought against archers and Taira 
against Minamoto. The victory was won by the 
North ; but to-day the people of the South have 
their advantage again and fill almost all the high 
grades of the navy and the army. 

April. Everything has united, in the last 



128 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

two months, to deepen the profound impression 
of that upheaval which attends the commencement 
of a conflict. War seizes a people as a passion 
seizes a man : both experiences are of a basic force 
before which everything else is effaced. Sacrifice, 
suffering and death exact no cost and life has no 
intrinsic price apart from the momentous emotion. 
The circumstances are always regarded as unique 
and unparalleled ; yet the individual is only one 
more man touched by the eternal genius of life, 
and the nation is, with equal completeness, in the 
hands of the god of destruction, the irresistible 
Siva. 

Those actively engaged in a war can never explain 
its causes. At the root of these is an instinct not 
of hate but of pride. The sonorous old word glory 
is still the same motive of combats ; and, when a 
people fling themselves into carnage, it is above 
all because of their idea of this idealism. In this 
war almost all the Japanese believe themselves bent 
on the ruin of Russia ; only a few of them know 
that what they hope to conquer is her esteem. 



CONFUCIUS 




CONFUCIUS 



E had left the train which, in recent 
years, has run from Tsinan-fou to 
Nankin, through the most ancient 
China ; the holy mountain of T'ai- 
chan, at the base of which we had 
crept, was gone from the horizon. 
In the vast plain the shimmering 
harvest was ripening in the July sun ; its golden 
riches, swollen by the last rain, seemed, in their dry 
brilliancy, to be already thirsting for the next. 

We took our places in the Chinese cart, one of 
us bent to suffocation beneath the dark canopy, the 
other half protected by the awning stretched above 
the horse. The wheels slipped into ruts older than 
time, and with its accustomed lurch the cart swung 
into the long slow movement of the horse and the 
driver who walked beside him. 

We found ourselves in the immeasurably ancient 
district of Lou, two hours' journey from the juris- 
diction of K'iu-feou, the city where Confucius was 
for more than thirty years a functionary, which he 
quitted, dissatisfied with the trend of public action, 
to travel for fourteen years in neighbouring countries, 
to which he returned to die and where he has his 
tomb. In honour of this tomb there exists the 



132 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

temple which China, in an increasing ardour of 
faith, has enlarged from age to age. One is per- 
petually dumb before the enigma of this man whose 
doctrine has united a vaster multitude of faithful 
than that of any god and who has to-day more 
temples than Buddha or than Allah. What genius 
is enclosed in this commandment founded solely 
upon reason, and that modest form of reason which 
is the operation of good sense ? It is an incredible 
departure from the usual premises to have to recog- 
nize that this kind of practical wisdom can work 
as great prodigies as faith ; that a people can cease- 
lessly, from generation to generation, honour reason 
rather than a divinity. The admission is a difficult 
one for the Occidental soul still saturated with 
mysticism. 

Our cart made its slow way between the hedges 
of slim reeds which waved above it their plumed 
crests, bursting with grain. This is a kind of 
millet, which provides the Chinese peasant with 
the mats for his house and with a broth for him- 
self and his live-stock. When the high interlaced 
walls opened, long fields of flax and wheat stretched 
beyond ; farther still a vast multitude of swollen 
gourds crept across the ground. The cart wheels 
dropped into sand, and suddenly a river cut the 
plain in two. Our driver stripped himself to his 
waist and we passed over a shallow spot, with the 
water murmuring about the axles. 

One has the sense that these customs have altered 
but little since the beginning of the world. Our 
cart is like that of the most primitive scripture, with 
its body balanced on long axles which protrude fan- 
tastically beyond the wheels. Confucius made his 
journeys in such a vehicle. The width between the 



CONFUCIUS 133 

wheels, and the consequent width of the ruts in the 
road, is to-day, as it was in his time, peculiar to each 
region ; so particularly and so invariably that a 
definition of this measurement is also a definition 
of the province from which a man hails. 

Our driver showed us in the distance a long wall, 
with innumerable trees beyond it. This is the 
tomb, or rather, as they term it, the " forest " of 
Confucius. Half an hour later we had entered the 
city. 

There is nothing to recall to one either a Mecca 
or a Jerusalem ; no shops with religious objects, no 
wares for tourists, and no hostel for the reception 
of pilgrims. It was with difficulty that we found 
a bookseller who had a description of the temple, 
and this he refused to sell because he did not want 
our silver piastres and we had not enough sous. 
We engaged our lodging in the inn, which is neither 
better nor larger than those in the usual villages. 
They gave us two rooms, whose floors were of 
trodden earth ; on the wall was a portrait of the 
Sage and some of his inscriptions. Our fellow- 
lodgers were some carters, a few merchants and 
two actresses from Tsinan-fou, who had been driven 
out as the result of brawls. 

Close by some triumphant arches, a vast enclosure 
and monumental gates announce the presence of a 
great temple. This is the sacred edifice of Yen-tseu, 
the favourite disciple ; the temple of Confucius is 
farther off ; in itself it occupies half of the city and 
a street runs through its precincts. As one ap- 
proaches it, one passes under a belfry, on the 
summit of which an enormous drum, framed in a 
lovely kiosk, strikes the hour, twice each day. The 
" forest " is still distant, beyond the walls. 



134 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

The city is filled with a curious peace. In spite 
of the filthy mud of its streets, the sordidness of 
its hovels and its clamorous troops of naked children, 
it has an air of serenity and quietude. From the 
high ramparts one's eye rests on the long placid 
flow of harvests. In every public square there is a 
small stone mill, and the people pass in turn, to 
grind their millet and their wheat. Tiny cages 
holding grasshoppers hang before the shops ; and 
each time the carts pass the insects supplement the 
shrill creak of the wheels with a still shriller cry. 
The palace of the governor is guarded by soldiers 
with long braids, whose air is scarcely martial ; its 
dignity is further signalized by its lovely beams of 
blue and gold. The men seem relaxed and without 
muscle, and have a touch of effeminacy. The 
women sway on their tortured feet, which give 
them the air of wounded hinds ; but the faces of 
many of them have a fine purity and an- expression 
of deep sweetness. 

Like all Chinese cities, this malodorous one exhales 
the very perfume of literature. Not a house and not 
a door is without a literary inscription. Ordinarily 
this takes the form of the expression of a good wish, 
to which is given a metaphorical or poetic turn. 
Sometimes it is a delicate phrase or a classic allusion 
for the relish of a subtle intelligence. The very 
shop signs are composed to flatter the perspicacity 
of the literarily minded. 

A knot of people, as we approached, proved to 
be listening to a blind man. He held a kind of 
long tube, covered with a serpent skin and sealed 
with another tightly drawn skin, for resonance ; and 
while he struck this, at regular intervals, he recited 
an old epic plaint. It was touching to see the 



CONFUCIUS 135 

respect with which he was surrounded and the 
frequent request for a repetition of the loveliest 
passages. Elsewhere some people were seated or 
standing about a public scribe who, with his spec- 
tacles on his nose, was reading a romance for which 
he furnished the mimicry, the variations of intona- 
tion and a running commentary. As his chapters 
ended, those who were pleased with his performance 
gave him one or two coins. 

This rustic city is again like other Chinese cities 
in that it is haunted by genii. Everywhere a sense 
of their presence is evident ; and, what is more, 
everything indicates that most of them are impor- 
tunate. In front of or behind the apertures of each 
house a screen is placed to prevent them from 
entering. The terrifying images of the Taoist gods 
whom the genii most fear are pasted against the 
doors ; and on the roof -trees are placed porcelain 
statuettes of those animals whose influence is 
exorcising dogs and lions, fish and unicorns, repre- 
sented in the most hostile postures. As one finds 
everywhere in China, the summit of each roof is 
carefully slanted upwards. There have been various 
reasons offered for this slant, which is so typical 
and so strange ; it has been suggested that it is a 
surviving form of the construction of the tents of 
nomadic ancestors ; but investigation has established 
the fact that the most ancient Chinese houses have 
roofs which drop uniformly. The roof which is 
bent upwards appears at the same time as the cult 
of Taoist exorcisms. It is, therefore, probable that 
this architectural movement was an attempt to 
facilitate the flight of genii from the house and to 
prevent them from striking against the roof itself 
and falling. 



136 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

If Confucius returned to-day, he would find the 
morality of his city little changed. His fellow- 
citizens still profess two of his most rooted doctrines 
a taste for literature and a careful avoidance of 
supernatural beings. 



The temple of Confucius is an entire city, or rather 
a vast palace, with large and small apartments, high 
ceremonial chambers, light kiosks, parks, courts, 
galleries, common-rooms and dependencies. The 
spirit of Confucius has a princely lodging, sur- 
rounded by his four associates, the twelve great 
philosophers who followed him and his seventy-two 
principal disciples. In addition to his spiritual 
family, his terrestrial relatives are given a place near 
him. One palace is reserved for his wife, one for 
his father, another for his mother, and a fourth for 
his ancestors. Wide parks open out through 
triumphal arches and beyond magnificent mono- 
liths which have been erected by his worshippers. 
Space has not been spared ; there is everywhere 
evidenced the sense that this immense monument, 
which represents the unity and the moral con- 
tinuity of China, should be expressive of the 
grandeur of that unity and the majesty of that 
continuity. 

In the temple-palace itself nothing is mystical ; 
nor is anything religious, in the usual sense of the 
word. The atmosphere differs totally from that of 
a church, a mosque or even of a Buddhist temple. 
Everywhere there is testimony to the deference, 
respect and veneration which surround the wisdom 
of the men who are honoured here ; but at no 



CONFUCIUS 137 

moment does the freedom of the human spirit 
seem bent by the oppressive consciousness of con- 
cealed power. There is no reserved area, no 
darkened sanctuary, no Holy of holies. Everything 
is open, gracious and light. The guardians are 
neither priests nor sacristans. If you observe the 
laws of natural decorum you may go anywhere and 
do whatever pleases you, without the risk of violating 
a rule or profaning a sacred precinct. You are 
visiting a prince of the mind, who is not a Buddha 
and still less a god. 

Taken as a whole, it is one of the great monuments 
of the world. The height of the vision it conveys 
and its architectural beauty come from its plan and 
its proportion. Spaces and masses, parks and build- 
ings, supplement each other and subordinate them- 
selves harmoniously to the principal edifice, which 
dominates them without dwarfing them. Logic, 
rhythm and balance are everywhere ; reason is 
satisfied before the eye is satisfied. Each court has 
its particularities of dimension ; each pavilion has 
an original form ; but the pervasive order and 
symmetry hold them in the relation to which they 
are proportionately suited. The great gates through 
which one successively passes are placed at calculated 
distances, the terrace on which is raised the main 
pavilion is neither too high nor too low, and a 
harmony flows throughout all the detail. Once 
there is established in one's mind the sense of this 
sureness and strength and of grave balance, one is 
prepared to savour the comparative relation between 
a stela and the pavilion which covers it, between 
the pavilion and the court which surrounds it, 
between one of the columns and the roof which it 
supports ; and from the outer park to the innermost, 



138 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

one sees a thousand repetitions of the thuya, a tree 
with the sombreness and rigidity of the cypress, 
which in its architectural lines and its V-shaped 
branches adds to the classic regularity of the whole. 

This regularity would border on severity if the 
men who designed it had not foreseen the admirable 
collaboration of nature. The essentially Chinese 
negligence of the guardians of the temple has added 
to the art of its architects. Almost without excep- 
tion the parks have been overrun not only by weeds 
but by a thick jungle ; a jungle alive with perfumes 
and noises, dense with every kind of bush and 
plant, where partridges scuttle to and fro and 
grasshoppers cry. Only the great paved court 
which precedes the central terrace is free from 
other invasion than that of mosses and lichens. 
The alignment of the thuyas has been just enough 
broken ; and the effect is marvellous. Against the 
clear deep green of the jungle, the two beautiful 
colours used by the architects the imperial yellow 
of the lacquered roofs and the vermilion of the 
walls spring into vigorous contrast ; and in the 
surrounding frame of these vital colours, which are 
everywhere present, all the other colours glow with 
life and harmony. The grey of the thuyas takes 
on the delicacies of a softened silver ; the poly- 
chromy of the under roofs a blue symphony touched 
with green and gold becomes a festival of beauty. 
The smallest object which passes in the distance, the 
blue of a cotton drapery, the pallor of flesh or the 
rose of a silk robe, surprises and enchants the eye. 

Once one has felt the organized grandeur of this 
Chinese monument, one feels that it rivals the 
greatest magnificences of Asia. The unforgettable 
temples of Japan have a romantic beauty. They are 



CONFUCIUS 139 

subordinated to Nature, and they show her in 
aspects perpetually new, always moving and always 
rare. But they do not unfold themselves into space. 
They rather concentrate one's view on a single spot 
where the human heart can lift itself in peace. Their 
appeal is to feeling, to all feeling, and it is couched 
in a magic and persuasive tongue. But none of 
them speak the solemn universal language which 
one hears here. Indian monuments have the quality 
of splendour. Their beauty consists in an infinite 
multiplicity, on foundations which are summary 
and often poor, of everything which can startle and 
stimulate the imagination. Only the Musulman 
architecture of India can be compared to this 
grandeur of plan and this balance of proportion. 
Yet an intrinsic element must always separate these 
two. Musulman architecture is equally sublime for 
its perfection of taste and for its indigence of 
thought. Nothing must distract the spirit of the 
worshipper from the pure and simple affirmation 
of the existence of Allah ; here, on the contrary, 
everything is prepared by minds which are both 
selective and wise. 

Each part of the temple of Confucius has a 
literary signification, and its name is inscribed in 
gold on ultramarine, upon a tablet placed so as to 
summon the attention. Every one of these names, 
as well as the order of their precedence, has been 
carefully chosen. The spirit is led, by a gradation 
of allusions and of memories, to the summit of the 
highest thoughts ; and the temple has thus not 
only the perfection of arrangement, but is also a 
visual rule of life, in which the preface precedes 
the development of subject and is followed by the 
peroration. 



140 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 



As one returns to the temple, day after day, it 
acquires a charming familiarity, from the great 
drum beneath the belfry to the soldiers on guard, 
in their straw hats, who no longer turn their heads 
to watch us pass. 

Every day we pay our duty to the Perfect One, 
whose heavy lips have a delicate smile, behind his 
jade pendants, and who seems to greet us with an 
infinite wisdom and an infinite beneficence. Then 
we wander into the oldest portions of the palace, 
where he lived. The eternal thuyas have allowed 
a few other better-known trees to penetrate here, 
of the same kind, so legend says, as those which 
grew in his day. The well which belonged to his 
family still holds water from the same source as 
that which supplied it before it reflected his face. 
An Emperor who came to drink from it composed 
a poem which is engraved on a stela, under a tiny 
roof, set in the wild grasses. 

There is a little wall, built on the site of a 
similar wall in which were found inurned some 
priceless books, containing the most ancient text 
of the master's teaching. But what seems to make 
the Sage most present is the sight, just behind the 
temple enclosure, of the curved roof of the palace 
of Duke K'ong, his lineal descendant and the 
present head of the Confucian house. He is a city 
magistrate, as all his ancestors have been since that 
greatest ancestor who dispensed justice here. The 
line of his nobility, which is older by centuries than 
almost all other descendance, is established on the 
unbroken testimony of Chinese history. China has 



CONFUCIUS 141 

never suffered a usurpation of this claim. In the 
thick foliage a stela covered with moss traces this 
genealogical tree of twenty centuries up to the 
fourteenth century; beyond this, everything in 
China is practically contemporary. The fact of 
this unbroken line of functionaries lays an extra- 
ordinary touch on one's imagination. To see side 
by side the dwellings of the Ancient One and of 
his successor, and to shift one's eye from the well 
of the one to the palace of the other, is to witness 
in material terms the miracle of Chinese perpetuity. 
There is an open chamber, a sort of finished 
outbuilding, erected on the site of a similar structure 
where Confucius had with his son two interviews 
whose history has been preserved. One of the 
disciples was in constant fear that the master was 
not imparting to him all his knowledge. He 
therefore asked the son of Confucius if his father 
had given him any special wisdom, and received 
the following answer : " One day when my father 
was alone, and while I was passing quickly and 
silently through the room " this was a mark of 
respect " he said to me, * Have you read the 
Book of Odes ? If you have not read it, you will 
not be an accomplished man.' I read it. On 
another such occasion he arrested me as I passed 
by saying, * Have you read the Book of Rites ? If 
not, your virtue will lack a firm foundation.' I 
went apart by myself and I read it. This is the 
wisdom I have received from my father." The 
disciple was overjoyed and said : " I asked for one 
answer and I received three. One concerns poetry, 
one concerns rites, and the third is that the Sage 
gives no secret instruction to his son." If Cicero 
could have known this citation of poetry and rites 



I 4 2 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

as supremely important, one feels how he would 
have felt its charm. 

The originality of Confucius lay in the fact that 
he gave no new rule, but that he instituted a 
school for the practice of the highest virtue. Its 
method was of a mutual moral development. 
The master corrected his pupils with vigour but 
with an equable humour ; at times he was corrected 
himself. His weakness was that he was at once too 
courteous and too sensitive ; and his followers 
blamed him equally for his exaggerated politeness 
in calling upon a lady of the oldest of the pro- 
fessions and for his exaggerated grief at the death 
of his favourite disciple. 

He submitted all his acts to the freest criticism. 
His thesis was to form man not by doctrine but by 
his contact with man. This practice of a practical 
virtue so enchanted him that he lost, as he has 
said, all need of food, that he forgot all care, and 
that he did not feel the advent of age. He and 
his followers held contests in the cause of goodness, 
in which the effort of each one was to imagine the 
most perfect actions ; he expressed his opinion 
freely, concerning people and things, events and 
ideas, the heroes of the past and the politicians of 
the day, and it was difficult to know which trait 
in his wisdom to admire most the firmness of his 
character, the suppleness of his wit or the generosity 
of his heart. As he says of himself : " No know- 
ledge is born in me, but I love the past and I have 
learned to learn. Am I wise ? I know not. But 
whatever it may be to cultivate virtue without 
ever experiencing distaste and to teach without ever 
knowing lassitude, that I do." 

It was in this world of composite beauty, with 



CONFUCIUS 143 

its colours, its verdure and its silences, that so many 
just and profound maxims came from him : 

" The wise man does not grieve because men 
know him not, but because he knows not men. 

" The wise man does not spurn a good word 
because it is spoken by the wicked. 

" Have I a science ? I have no science ; but 
when the humblest man questions me, no matter 
what his ignorance, I answer him fully. 

" Not to correct an involuntary fault is to commit 
a real one. 

" It is more difficult to guard oneself from 
bitterness in poverty than from arrogance in riches. 

" One can carry off a general from the midst of 
his army ; one cannot deprive a man of his resolve 
to practise virtue. 

" That which one knows, to know that one knows 
it, that which one knows not, to know that one 
knows it not, is the true knowledge." 
' Confucius practised this last maxim, the negation 
of which has cost humanity so many illusions and 
deceptions. Concerning matters of which nothing 
is known he made no pronouncements. He avoided 
any talk of spirits and of phenomena ; he spoke, 
indeed, very little of celestial providence. When 
a disciple interrogated him concerning death, his 
answer was : " You who know not what is life, how 
can you know what is death ? " This abstention 
has a rare and touching quality. On the approach 
of his end, when the wisdom of most sages weakens, 
and when his disciples asked if they should pray to 
spirits for him, he refused, despite his love for his 
rites and ceremonies, and replied briefly : " My life 
is my prayer." Socrates, in his enigmatic sacrifice 
of a cock to uEsculapius, was less firm. 



144 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

His explanation of his rule excels in its simplicity. 
" There are matters which a wise spirit does not 
study; but those which he studies, he never quits 
until he knows them. There are matters on which 
he does not meditate ; but if he meditates, he does 
not cease until he has made his discovery. There 
are matters concerning which he asks no question ; 
but if he questions, he never rests until he has 
understood. There are matters which he does not 
attempt to differentiate ; but those which he differ- 
entiates he never leaves without having seen all their 
differences." 

His art was to subordinate each thing to its end. 
What one perpetually admires in him is his balance, 
his fineness and his justice. He detested antithesis 
and emphasis, as he distrusted sublimities. The 
conduct of life and the conduct of public affairs 
were the domain of his operation. If he loved 
power it was because he preferred action to specula- 
tion. Like a Cicero or a Leibnitz he was most a 
philosopher when he had to console himself for not 
being a minister. His programme was simply to 
apply his mind to public affairs and to deal with 
them ceaselessly. He did not consider that to 
despise preferment was an absolute testimony of 
virtue. " When the State is well governed," he 
said, " the wise man will be ashamed to possess 
neither honours nor riches." One of his disciples 
cited to him with admiration a minister who, when 
he was three times raised to power, showed no joy, 
and when he was three times stripped of it showed 
no regret. The master praised him, but with 
reserve, since he considered that indifference towards 
the responsibilities of office is not perfection. 



CONFUCIUS 



'45 



A charming portion of the temple is the pavilion 
of metal and of silk, which is also the pavilion of 
music. No corner of this vast solitude is more 
deserted. The tangle of thorns and roots is thick 
around it, and it is replete with a thousand scents 
and with the cries of a thousand insects. Passing 
through the surrounding wilderness of weeds, of 
odours and of sounds, one comes upon the long 
half-ruined pavilion, whose proportions carry the 
universal beauty. Here is preserved if one can 
apply the word the collection of musical instru- 
ments. 

The objects in this collection are broken and 
incomplete, and this gives to it the added charm 
of surprising lapses and unevennesses. The lutes 
have lost their silken cords ; the flutes are gone ; it 
must be that they are preserved elsewhere. In the 
octaves of sonorous stones or of bells, one or two 
notes are missing. But some ancient instruments 
of great loveliness remain : a flattened bell which 
emits a sound of extreme purity, a resounding stone 
cut in the form of a square, the timbre of which 
is exquisite, and drums of all sorts. These instru- 
ments are used for the celebrations in honour of 
Confucius. He himself was passionately fond of 
music. He played melodies on the lute and on the 
musical stones, and whenever he fell in with good 
choristers he delighted to sing with them. In the 
country of Ts'i, it is said, he heard songs of such 
beauty that for three months he lost his sense of 
taste. On his return to his own province his first 
care was to restore the cult of music. The masters 



146 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

of the art had been scattered ; he gathered them 
together and raised to honour again the loveliest 
of the old odes ; and his tender respect for the 
chief musician who was blind clings always to one's 
memory. 

His favourite songs were those of a soft beauty, 
such as the songs of the Emperor Chouen. The 
warrior songs of the Emperor Ou seemed to him 
too strident. He detested the music of Tcheng as 
at once too sensual and too brilliant. He compared 
it to the deep purple which he disliked and which 
he regretted to see substituted for the rich red of 
his forefathers. There was no separation in his 
mind between music and rites ; the latter expressed 
the complete and sensible form of duty ; the former 
expressed the symbol of duty and represented its 
soul. By this he always meant that this spiritual 
quality was chiefly carried in music executed in 
concert. The attitude of the musician in a concert 
resumed, according to his idea, the attitude of the 
citizen in his obligation to society. In this con- 
summation he affirmed that participation in music 
perfected character, and to one of his followers who 
mourned the fact that his virtue was not yet 
perfect he replied that his lute was not yet per- 
fectly tuned. His followers have used this tendency 
of his taste to define his relation to the immense 
number of his faithful. They compare the reson- 
ances of his doctrine to a harmony which per- 
petuates itself from century to century. Seen in 
this light, he is neither a saviour nor a prophet, a 
legislator nor a hero, but the master of a universal 
choir. 



CONFUCIUS 147 

5 

After we left the music pavilion we were invited 
to visit the School of Rites ; this is the college of 
those benevolent officials who, on fete days, direct 
the ceremonial. We passed through the wild 
gardens, the museums of epigraphy, beneath the 
solemnly beautiful doors and the triumphal arches, 
and at. the other end of the immense temple we 
came upon a small silent court. A great thuya has 
dropped towards earth there, to grow horizontally, 
and no one has disturbed it. On three sides there 
open out three very simple chambers, with their 
doors thrown wide. We were offered a stool and 
a bowl of tea, and we found ourselves surrounded 
by some thirty youths and men. 

They are a hundred in all, under the direction 
of four monitors, and they meet here to rehearse 
the ceremonials. Their service in the temple is 
entirely voluntary and gratuitous ; they receive no 
recompense of any sort and pay for their own food. 
One cannot call them priests ; their mission is not 
divine and they are not part of a sacred hierarchy. 
When an old monitor, who was trying to explain 
their functions to us, alluded to himself as a pro- 
fessor, they interrupted him gaily to ask if he was 
trying to pass them off as scholars. They com- 
pletely lack the ecclesiastical tinge, that indescrib- 
able mixture of insinuation and reserve which the 
service of any doctrine so frequently brings. But 
their office is far more than figurative. They are 
the human means for the conservation of a tradition 
which is extremely ancient and extremely minute ; 



148 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

and one has the sense that if they freely apply 
themselves, with so exact a devotion, to the study 
of these ceremonies, the ceremonies themselves must 
be beautiful. 

As we followed the rehearsal which they were 
good enough to give us of the principal of these 
rituals, the one which takes place each year in the 
name of the State, one realized this beauty and the 
high qualities of both its age and its simplicity. 
An important dignitary is the chief functionary, 
with sixty-two assistants. He makes his entry to 
music ; and in the religious silence which succeeds 
this he approaches the statue before which the 
offerings are made. At this moment the bells 
commence their melody. The choirs and the 
stringed instruments follow them, and the resonant 
stones terminate and hold the sound until the 
second strophe. There is thus executed, in cadence, 
a very slow hymn. It consists of six strophes which 
correspond to six periods of the ceremony. Each 
strophe is made up of eight verses and each verse 
of four majestic monosyllables, carried by four full 
notes. The hymn is not only sung ; it is traced, 
as it were, on the ground by two groups of dancers 
who hold long pens and short flutes and who 
follow, by their movements, the caligraphic character 
of each syllable as it is sung, and thus embellish the 
spiritual idea. 

One does not feel that this ceremony corresponds 
to an effusion of soul. It rather expresses, by its 
simultaneous appeal to the eye and the ear, the 
rite which is being fulfilled and the sentiment 
which it should awaken. The first offering is that 
of wine and of fruits, the hymn for which flows 
somewhat as follows : 



CONFUCIUS 149 

My spirit rests in the clarity of virtue. 
Jade breaks the long echoes of metal. 
Among the living none could approach him. 
His word has swept over the stars. 
Here are the vases aged a thousand years. 
Each year, on the sacred days, 
The limpid wine flows into them, 
Its perfume rises to the sky. 

This ritual and this cult evoke in the French 
mind a strange memory of those ceremonies of the 
Revolution which were prescribed by David, and 
of which Marie-Joseph Chenier was the poet and 
Michelet the musician. Seen from the temple of 
Confucius, there is a thread of logic in them. 
What they lacked was a past of a thousand years. 
The cult of which Auguste Gomte dreamed has 
been dreamed in China, and when we honour 
Michelet or Rousseau at the Pantheon, we are to 
some extent participating in one of those feasts of 
reason which are so essentially Confucian. In the 
West the more laic rites are still in demand, and 
the worship of reason and of humanity is still 
unformed. It exists, however, and since any 
assemblage of men turns to ritual and ceremonial 
one can imagine that, if religions weaken, it will 
grow and that in a few centuries the celebrations 
at the Pantheon might have their definite form, 
each part of which would testify to a sensibility 
and a tradition and to collective emotions. 

Since the dawn of history China has trained 
herself to honour reason. We may teach her the 
application of it, as we teach her a hundred thousand 
inventions and a thousand forms of science. What 
we can learn from her is a lesson of respect. She 
can prove to us that this cult is neither difficult 



150 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

nor of precarious tenure, and that no faith which 
deals entirely with the supernatural has yet equalled 
it in its extension or in its longevity. 



The temple of Yen-tseu is also a palace, with 
special dwellings for the disciple and for the various 
members of his family, with verdant parks and walls 
of vermilion, with lacquered roofs and blue doors, 
and a whole aligned army of thuyas. But the 
surroundings of the follower have a more intimate 
air than the surroundings of the Sage. 

It was Yen whom Confucius most loved and of 
whom he said : " Yen hears me in silence through- 
out the day, as if he had no mind to object or to 
question. But when he has gone from me I see 
all my teaching sanctified in his conduct " ; and it 
was Yen who wrote : " The more I study the 
doctrine of the master, the higher I find it. I see 
it before me, and suddenly it is behind me. If I 
wish to cease my progress in it, I am unable to ; 
and after I have spent all my strength, there is 
always something new in front of me, like an 
inaccessible mountain." 

When Yen died, in his thirty-second year, the 
grief of Confucius was so extreme that he said that 
heaven had taken his life and annihilated him. The 
disciple had come of a very poor family, and, 
faithful to his love of the fitting, Confucius wished 
for him a simple funeral such as he had had for 
his own son. The other followers disobeyed and 
he was interred with great splendour. Their love 
for him became part of their faith, and when the 
Sage spoke of him it was with that depth of feeling, 



CONFUCIUS 151 

at once passionate and extravagant, which only the 
heart inspires. 

To look at the gentle young face of the young 
disciple brings one nearer to his master and lends 
an intimacy to the respect he evokes. Two qualities 
are eminent in Confucius his intellectual method 
and his social conception ; but there is a third, the 
freshness of his sensibility. It is recorded that when 
he found himself eating beside a man who was 
dejected at the loss of a near relative, the infection 
of grief so overcame him that he himself could 
scarcely eat ; and when he went to weep for one 
of his own dead, his sorrow prevented him from 
singing throughout the entire day. 

This spontaneity and this sincerity of feeling 
explain what he has said concerning ritual. In his 
view, it was not an insignificant gesture or a lifeless 
form. He penetrated the sense of ceremonial and 
infused it with a soul. Mourning was to him the 
sensible form of bereavement. He exemplified in 
himself the profound grief of old races a profundity 
which too often escapes us in our day. His rites 
were the beautiful vessels in which he enclosed, for 
preservation and transmission, that most subtle and 
precious of essences sentiment. Those ancient 
usages which he wished to retain were not such as 
claimed the adherence of a temporary fashion, but 
those which preserved and codified a deep feel- 
ing, like saluting at the foot of a stairway, rising 
before the blind and before persons in sorrow, and 
changing nothing in the house of one's dead parents 
for the immediate years after their death. In a 
case where there was a choice in the matter of 
behaviour, a sureness of instinct always indicated 
to him the more noble and the more exquisite. 



152 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

Confucius would never hear of the fact that 
virtue was in itself enough without politeness. He 
viewed them as inseparable ; he saw courtesies as 
coming from the heart, and that when they were 
practised with all the heart a moral elevation 
ensued. 

His own instinct was distinctly sociable. There 
was always a light raillery in his opinion of those 
fierce sages who, to escape the spectacle of human 
injustice, fled to the mountains and the deserts and 
sought the society of animals. For his part, he 
regarded his fellows with np such rigour and he 
could imagine no disillusion which would tempt 
him to renounce the charm of human intercourse. 
Once when his courage was at a low ebb he 
exclaimed : " If I fled to a raft in the midst of 
the sea, who would follow me ? Yen, I suppose." 
And when he saw Yen's joy at this comment he 
added charmingly : " Yen is more courageous than 
I, but he needs a little cleverness." 

He had in the largest sense that greatest quality, 
humanity. Long before the Stoics he taught charity 
to one's kind, and far in advance of the Christians 
he humanized all its elements. It was he who first 
said : " Do as you would be done by ; do unto 
others as you would that they should do unto you ; 
love thy neighbour as thyself." And the immor- 
tality of these words assures him, in the world at 
large, the rank which China has given him. 

7 

We spent our last morning in a visit to the tomb 
of Confucius. 

In formef days it stood at the gates of the city ; 



CONFUCIUS 153 

but K'iu-feou has expanded disproportionately in 
another direction, and now the lengthy walk of old 
trees which leads one to it passes out of the gates 
and through monotonous fields. The sudden appa- 
rition, across the path, of a triumphal arch interrupts 
one's reverie. The trees grow more and more 
closely until they are contracted between two walls 
of vermilion ; a little farther and one passes through 
a door into the " forest." 

It is a strange spot, overrun by the wildest 
nature, so tangled and so isolated that it would 
seem part of the primeval world if the regularity 
of the cypresses did not give warning that it was 
the approach to a tomb. A stream flows amongst 
the bushes ; there is no monument visible, but 
only an altar for the ritual offerings. The wide 
walk is bordered with sculptured stones which date 
from the second century of our era. First there 
are two octagonal columns, then two pairs of 
fantastic animals, and finally the statues of two 
functionaries, one of the military class, carrying his 
long sabre, the other of the civilian, with his ivory 
tablets ready to note the orders of the prince. 
Beyond the altar the walk continues ; it passes on 
the left the tomb of the grandson of Confucius, 
Tseu-sen, the second of the Associates and the 
author of one of the four Confucian books. There 
is another stone to the right, commemorating the 
son of Confucius. The path turns, and a little 
farther, in front of a green mound, in the completest 
solitude, stands a final stela. 

The three tiny vessels of bronze placed before it 
are the sole marks of its sanctity; but one has the 
sense that the grandeur of space and silence is 
alone equal to the grandeur of this dead. The 



154 JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS 

forest about exhales its rumours and its odours, and 
the cypresses stand with the languor of grief. 
Scattered amongst the undergrowth are little seats 
which commemorate the fact that Emperors have 
come here to meditate. 

One's impression, as one confronts the spot, has 
all the quality of a vision. The universality of this 
teaching raises the wonder, in one's mind, whether 
the future may not see a universal temple ; whether, 
in a few centuries and in this scale of measurement 
what do centuries count ? the three great conti- 
nents may not unite to raise an edifice twice as 
vast as the one we have just left, and in which the 
Greek perfection shall be combined with the Chinese 
amplitude a building as final in its beauty as the 
Parthenon and as majestic in its spaces as the plan 
of Peking. 

Confucius would there be venerated side by side 
with that other sage who, on the other side of the 
world and at a date almost as early as his own, 
taught the subtle use of reason ; he and Socrates, 
the ceremonious Chinese and the ironic Greek, 
would be regarded as the founders of this moral 
science, as those first to recognize the warmth of 
charity and the clear flame of reason, and to fulfil 
their part as spiritual fathers of the State. 

With these two would be honoured their asso- 
ciates in thought. Confucius would have his four 
companions, his twelve philosophers and his seventy- 
two disciples ; Socrates would have beside him 
memorials to Plato, Xenophon, Aristotle and 
Epicurus. It would be difficult to extend to the 
West the list of those whose accomplishment was 
to be commemorated, since there reason has been 
too long neglected ; but Descartes would be placed 



CONFUCIUS 155 

beside Seneca, Spinoza would follow them, and 
there would be noted Locke, Montesquieu, Rousseau, 
Kant, Goethe and Auguste Comte. 

To the Orient and to the Occident, the uniting 
of these names would certify the universality of 
reason ; and, whether this monument existed in 
actuality or in the cult of a common veneration, it 
would mean a recognition of our common thought, 
of its perpetual struggle towards clarity and of the 
peace of its ultimate achievement. 

Confucius has said that the way to honour the 
dead was to keep them present in one's mind. His 
own presence is so perpetuated that it conquers 
those who come here as curious travellers and lays 
upon them the vivid touch of his philosophy. The 
quiet of good judgment has never before appeared 
so exquisite and so intimate. Before this tomb the 
future of the more mystic religions seems less assured. 
What they teach is also taught here, and taught 
both more efficaciously and simply. It is in this 
age-long silence that one learns something of the 
necessity to free one's mind from the chimerical, 
to maintain in the face of the unknown a dis- 
passionate and fearless attitude, and to live in the 
society of one's fellow-men with an incorruptible 
measure and harmony. 



THE END 



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