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JERUSALEM 

1918— 1920 


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C  KASt'E-f  ^■ 


Plan  of  Citadel  Gardens. 


No.  I. 


I 

I 


JERUSALEM 

1918-1920 

Being    the    Records    of  the    Pro-Jerusalem 

Council    during    the    period    of  the    British 

Military    Administration 

EDITED    BY    C.    R.    ASHBEE 


LONDON : 
JOHN    MURRAY,   ALBEMARLE   STREET,  W. 

Published  for 

THE   COUNCIL   OF   THE   PRO-JERUSALEM    SOCIETY 

1921 


PREFACE 

THE  Pro-Jerusalem  Society  was  founded  in  fact,  though  not 
on  paper,  in  the  spring  following  Lord  Allenby's  liberation  of 
Jerusalem.  There  were,  and  will  always  remain,  many  aspects 
of  civic  life,  more  especially  in  this  unique  city,  in  which  no  Military 
Administration,  no  Civil  Government  even,  could,  without  thwarting  civic 
and  individual  effort,  occupy  itself,  however  sympathetically  inclined. 
And  in  the  hard  and  continuous  pressure  of  the  first  weeks  of  the 
occupation  it  was  clearly  impossible  for  the  Military  Authorities  to 
execute  themselves  or  guarantee  execution  of  even  such  primal  necessities 
as  are  indicated  by  the  following  Public  Notice  : — 

"No  person  shall  demolish,  erect,  alter,  or  repair  the  structure  of 
any  building  in  the  city  of  Jerusalem  or  its  environs  within  a 
radius  of  2,500  metres  from  the  Damascus  Gate  (Bab  al  Amud) 
until  he  has  obtained  a  written  permit  from  the  Military 
Governor. 

"Any  person  contravening  the  orders  contained  in  this  procla- 
mation, or  any  term  or  terms  contained  in  a  licence  issued  to 
him  under  this  proclamation,  will  be  liable  upon  conviction  to  a 
fine  not  exceeding  £E.200. 

"(Sgd.)  R.  Storrs,  Colonel, 
"Jerusalem.  Military  Governor. 

"April  8th,  1918." 

or  another,  issued  about  the  same  time,  forbidding  the  use  of  stucco 
and  corrugated  iron  within  the  ancient  city  walls,  and  thus  respecting 
the  tradition  of  stone  vaulting,  the  heritage  in  Jerusalem  of  an 
immemorial  and  a  hallowed  past. 

The  issue  of  these  two  orders  ensured  the  temporary  and  pro- 
visional Military  Administration  against  the  charge  of  encouraging  or 
permitting  vandalism.  It  is,  however,  no  less  impossible  than  it 
would  be  improper  to  attempt  the  preservation  and  extension  of  the 
amenities  of  the  Holy  City  without  due  consultation  with  the  Heads 
of  the  Religious  and  Lay  Communities  which  inhabit  it.  The  Pro- 
Jerusalem  Society  was  then  the  Military  Governor  civically  and  sestheti- 
cally  in  Council,  and  the  political  effect  of  such  a  reunion  round  one  table 


I73xlf^1  H 


of  differing,  and  very  often  actively  discordant,  elements  bound  together 
here  by  their  common  love  for  the  Holy  City  is  not  to  be  under-estimated. 
From  the  first  the  venture  enjoyed  the  active  patronage  and  support  of 
the  Commander-in-Chief,  who  never  failed  to  encourage  and  stimulate 
our  endeavours. 

Later  in  the  year  191 8,  hearing  of  the  presence  in  Egypt  of  the 
architect  Mr.  C.  R.  Ashbee,  a  friend  and  disciple  of  William  Morris,  a 
member  of  the  Society  for  the  Protection  of  Ancient  Buildings,  and  of 
the  National  Trust,  and  well  known  for  his  skill  and  enthusiasm 
for  civic  development  with  its  kindred  Arts  and  Crafts,  I  wrote 
to  him  requesting  him  to  visit  Jerusalem  and  write  a  report  on  its 
possibilities  in  this  respect.  That  report  is  the  germ  of  many  of 
the  undertakings  which  have  since  been  carried  out.  Mr.  Ashbee 
was  appointed  Civic  Advisor  and  Secretary  to  the  Pro-Jerusalem 
Council.  Some  ££.5000  were  collected  by  direct  appeal  to  those 
likely  to  be  interested  in  Jerusalem,  and  the  various  projects  and 
activities,  a  list  of  which  is  set  forth  by  Mr.  Ashbee,  or  may  be  referred 
to  in  Appendix  III,  were  set  in  motion.  A  great  impulse  was  given  to  the 
scope  and  status  of  the  Society  by  the  arrival  of  Sir  Herbert  Samuel  as 
High  Commissioner.  His  Excellency  had,  during  his  visit  in  the  spring 
of  1920,  attended  a  meeting  of  the  Council,  of  which  he  had  been 
unanimously  elected  a  member,  and  signified  his  approval  of  our  aims  by 
a  most  encouraging  speech  as  well  as  a  generous  subscription.  Amongst 
many  other  causes  of  gratitude  the  Society  owes  to  him  its  Charter  and 
an  arrangement  whereby  the  Government  affords  it  a  very  considerable 
annual  subvention. 

It  only  remains  for  me  to  convey  my  personal  thanks  once  again  to 
all  those  benefactors  and  supporters  whose  names  appear  in  the  list 
given  on  pages  72-74  of  this  publication,  to  call  attention  to  the  generosity 
of  the  gifts,  and  to  invite  all  whom  these  pages  may  reach  to  forge  in 
their  lives  a  link  with  Jerusalem  the  living. 

A  reference,  indeed,  to  the  list  of  subscribers,  and  that  is  to  say 
members  of  the  Society,  will  show  how  wide  the  net  is  spread.  Rever- 
ence for  Jerusalem  and  what  it  stands  for  in  the  life  of  man  has  been 
the  motive  that  has  inspired  these  gifts,  and  I  make  bold  to  hope  that 
this  record  of  two  years'  work  in  the  safeguarding  of  the  Holy  City  may 
gather  in  many  hundreds  of  subscribers  among  the  three  great  religions 
for  which  it  stands  as  a  beacon  on  a  hill. 

Under  the  new  Charter  anyone  who  subscribes  not  less  than  £5  a 
year  to  the  Society,  or  makes  a  donation  of  not  less  than  £25  towards  its 
great  work  of  preserving  what  is  old  and  ennobling  what  is  new  in  the 


VI 


(< , 


<( , 


(( 


Holy  City,  becomes  a  member  of  the  Pro- Jerusalem  Society;  and  the 
objects  of  the  Society,  as  defined  in  the  Charter,  are  "the  preservation 
and  advancement  of  the  interests  of  Jerusalem,  its  district  and  inhabi- 
tants ;  more  especially  : — 

"  I.  The  protection  of  and  the  addition  to  the  amenities  of  Jerusalem 
and  its  district. 

'2.  The  provision  and  maintenance  of  parks,  gardens,  and  open 
spaces  in  Jerusalem  and  its  district. 

'3.  The  establishment  in  the  district  of  Jerusalem  of  Museums, 
Libraries,  Art  Galleries,  Exhibitions,  Musical  and  Dramatic 
Centres,  or  other  institutions  of  a  similar  nature  for  the 
benefit  of  the  Public. 

'4.  The  protection  and  preservation,  with  the  consent  of  the  Govern- 
ment, of  the  Antiquities  in  the  district  of  Jerusalem. 

The  encouragement  in  the  district  of  Jerusalem  of  arts,  handi- 
crafts, and  industries  in  consonance  with  the  general  objects 
of  the  Society. 

The  administration  of  any  immovable  property  in  the  district 
of  Jerusalem  which  is  acquired  by  the  Society  or  entrusted  to 
it  by  any  person  or  corporation  with  a  view  to  securing  the 
improvement  of  the  property  and  the  welfare  of  its  tenants 
or  occupants. 

'7.  To  co-operate  with  the  Department  of  Education,  Agriculture, 
Public  Health,  Public  Works,  so  far  as  may  be  in  harmony 
with  the  general  objects  of  the  Society." 

This,  then,  is  the  aim  of  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Society.  The  Palestine 
Administration  gives  to  the  Society  pound  for  pound  of  what  it  collects 
from  private  membership  contributions.  I  make  here  an  appeal  for  two 
thousand  additional  members. 

Ronald  Storrs, 
IS  March  192 1.  Governor  of  Jerusalem. 


"< 


vu 


Appendices  •• 


zi 


CONTENTS 

Page 

Preface.      By    Ronald    Storks,    C.B.E.,    C.M.G.,  Governor  of  Jerusalem   ...      v 

List  OF  iLtUSTRATIONS 

Council  of  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Society      

Official  Review  of  the  Various  Works  undertaken   by  the  Society.      By 
C.  R.  AsHBEE,  F.R.I. B.A.,  Civic  Advisor  to  the  City  of  Jerusalem 

1.  The  Old  City       

2.  The  New  Town  Plan 

3.  The  Archaeological  Needs  of  the  Holy  City 

4.  The  Park  System  

5.  The  Markets       

6.  New  Industries   ...         

7.  Technical  Education      

8.  Civic  Regulations  

9.  Social  Work        

10.  Finance 


I 

II 

IS 
19 
26 

30 
35 
37 
39 
41 


"Les   Restes   de    la    Civilisation    Israelite   Proteges   par    la    Society." 

Par  Dr.  Nahum  Slousch,  L.D.  Sorbonne         43 

"Les  Monuments  de  l'Epoque  Romaine  ProtjSg^s  par  la  Society."  Par 
L.  H.  Vincent,  Prof,  a  I'Ecole  biblique  et  archeologique  de  Saint-£tienne, 
Jerusalem         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...     56 

"Monuments  des  Croisades   Proteges  par  la  Soci^Tf."     Par  T.  M.  Abel, 

Prof,  a  r£cole  biblique  et  archeologique  de  Saint-£tienne,  Jerusalem        ...     61 

"Muslim    Work    Touched    by   the    Society."      By    K.  A.    C.    Creswell, 

M.B.E.,  Late  Inspector  of  Monuments,  G.S.,  O.E.T 67 


71 


Index  81 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

1.  Plan  of  the  Citadel  Gardens  {Frontif piece). 

2.  The  Citadel  of  Jerusalem,  seen  from  outside  the  Jaffa  Gate. 

3.  „  „  „  seen  from  the  top  of  the  Minaret. 

4.  The  Rampart  Walk,  with  guard-house  near  St.  Stephen's  Gate,  showing 

GANGS    of    labourers   AT   WORK. 

5.  Rampart  Walk,  clearings  in  progress. 

6.  Modern  encroachments  on  the  walls. 

7.  The  Damascus  Gate. 

8.  St.  Stephen's  Gate. 

9.  The  Abu  Liya  Playground  :  Plan. 

10.  The  Abu  Liya  Playground,  as  at  present  and  as  suggested. 

11.  Old  wooden  window. 

12.  Roof  system  of  the  S6q  el  'AttarIn,  showing  louvres  in  danger  of  falling. 

13.  Another  view  of  the  same,  showing  fallen  louvres. 

14.  The  Suq  el  'AttarIn  roof  :  looking  to  the  Dome  of  the  Rock  and  the  Mount 

OF  Olives. 

15.  The  S6q  el  'Attarin  seen  from  below  where  the  vaults  have  been  shored  up. 

16.  The  Suq  el  'Attarin  from  within,  looking  north. 

17.  Plan  of  the  SOq  el  Qattanin. 

18.  The  SOq  el  Qattan!n  :  Main  Arcade. 

19.  The  Dome  of  the  Rock. 

20.  The  same,  showing  the  tile  surface. 

21.  The  McLean  Plan. 

22.  The  Geddes  Plan. 

23.  The  Hammam  el  Batrak  :  Central  Vaulted  Hall. 

24.  „  „  „  Plan  and  Elevation. 

25.  The  Jerusalem  Park  system. 

26.  Key  Plan  of  the  Jerusalem  Rampart  Walk. 

27.  The  Citadel  Gardens  :  South  Terrace  (converted  fosse). 

28.  „  „  „  AT   the    entrance   TO   THE    CiTADEL. 

29.  „  „  „  showing   the    base    of   THE   ToWER   OF    DaVID. 

30.  „  „  „  NEAR   THE    DrAWBRIDGE. 

31.  „  „  „         converted  fosse. 

32.  The  Rampart  Walk  :  showing  how  a  roof  has  been  built  over  the  walk 

33.  „  „  „        near  the  Bab  Nebi  Da-ud. 

zi 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

34.  The  Rampart  Walk  :  showing  a  woman  clearing  away  an  encroachment. 

35.  „  „  „  COVERED   BY    12  FT.   OF  "tIP,"  AND  A  NEW  WALL   BUILT  ON 

THE   TOP    OF    IT. 

36.  „       „       „     SHOWING  HOW  THE  ENCROACHMENT  HAS  BEEN  TUNNELLED. 

37.  „       „       „     THE  SAME  POINT  SEEN  NEARER  AND  SHOWING  THE  GIRLS  AT 

WORK. 

38.  „  ;,  „  SHOWING   THE    GRADUAL    DESTRUCTION    OF   THE    CITY   WALL. 

39.  „  ,,  ,,        AT  THE  El  Aqsa  Mosque. 

40.  The  Jaffa  Gate  as  it  was  when  the  "Kaiser's  Breach"  was  being  made,  and 

before  the  building  of  the  Turkish  Clock  Tower. 

41.  „        „  „    showing  the  suggested  reconstruction  of  the  fosse  and 

the  wall. 

42.  View  from  the  Jaffa  Gate,  showing  the  present  unsightly  obstructions. 

43.  „        „        „        „  „     showing  THE  proposed  new  placing  OF  THE  Mar- 

ket after  the  clearing  OF  THE  OBSTRUCTIONS. 

44.  View  Looking  towards  the  Jaffa  Gate  :  showing  how  the  unsightly  build- 

ings obliterate  the  line  of  the 

WALL. 

45.  „  „  „  „  „  „  AFTER  the  removal  OF  THESE  BUILD- 

ings and  the  making  of  the  park. 

46.  The  Post  Office  Square  :  Plan  and  elevation  of  the  work  now  in  progress. 

47.  „        „  „  „  Photograph  showing  the  derelict  state  before 

the  work  was  begun. 

48.  „        „  „  „  Diagram  showing  the  work  when  completed. 

49.  The  Jaffa  Road  (Haim  Valero  or  Mahanna  Yudah)  Market. 

50.  „        „  „     showing  the  market  enclosure  proposed. 

51.  „        „  „     Plan  and  sections  of  the  proposed  market. 

52.  The  David  Street  IVIarket  :  to  the   north,    as    at    present,    blocked    up 

with  debris. 

53.  „  „  „  „  AS  IT  WILL  be  when  THE  DEBRIS  IS  REMOVED  AND 

the  arches  opened  out. 
54-       >,        „  „  „  as  at  present  and  as  proposed. 

55.  Fallen  arcade  in  the  Mauristan. 

56.  The  Sdo  el  Qattanin  :  the  entrance  from  the  street. 

57.  „  „         ,,  ,,  THE    great   chamber. 

58.  A    SyRLAN    POTTER   AT   WORK. 

59.  Group  of  Hebron  glass-blowers. 

60.  A  Hebron  glass-worker  in  his  shop  in  Jerusalem. 

61.  A  Hebron  glass. 

62.  The  Society's  Weaving  Apprentices  in  their  uniform. 

zii 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

63.  The  Weaving  Apprenticeship  Ceremony  :  Opening  of  the  Jerusalem  Looms 

IN  1919. 

64.  Dome  construction  in  Jerusalem. 

65.  A  Jerusalem  carpenter's  window. 

66.  Its  modern  substitute. 

67.  Relief  labour  at  work  on  the  Citadel  clearings. 

68.  Prisoners  shifting  large  stones  at  the  Citadel. 

69.  The  Wailing  Wall  :  showing  the  lower,  or  Herodian,  blocks  of  stone. 

70.  „  „  „       showing   the   upper,  post-Titus,   courses    that   have 

been  recently  repaired. 

71.  The  Tombs  of  "The  Kings." 

72.  Photograph  showing  the  present  derelict  state  of  one  of  the  rock-tombs. 

73.  Diagram  showing  the  ancient  doorway. 

74.  Plan  of  the  projected  park  which  is  to  incorporate  and  guard  the  ancient 

Jewish  rock  tombs. 

75.  Carving  of  an  ancient  tomb  with  a  modern  fracture  and  a  modern  Hebrew 

inscription  on  the  cornice. 

76.  The  ancient  Roman  Staircase  at  Siloam. 

77.  Dome  of  the  Rock  :  Plan. 

78.  East  entrance  to  the  S6q  el  QattanIn. 

79.  Inscription  uncovered  at  the  Citadel. 


Xlll 


COUNCIL  OF  THE   PRO-JERUSALEM  SOCIETY 

Founded  September  1918. 
Incorporated  October  1920  (under  the  Palestine  Administration). 

HON.  PRESIDENT. 
The  Right  Hon.  SIR  HERBERT  SAMUEL,  High  Commissioner  of  Palestine. 

PRESIDENT. 
RONALD   STORRS,  C.M.G.,  C.B.E.,  Governor  of  Jerusalem. 

COUNCIL. 
Hon.  Member:  The  Right  Hon.  Viscount  Milner,  K.C.B. 

Members. 
The  Mayor  of  Jerusalem. 
The  Director  of  Antiquities. 
His  Eminence  the  Grand  Mufti. 
His  Reverence  the  President  of  the  Franciscan  Community,  the  Custodian  of 

the  Holy  Land. 
His  Reverence  the  President  of  the  Dominican  Community. 
His  Beatitude  the  Greek  Patriarch. 
His  Beatitude  the  Armenian  Patriarch. 
The  President  of  the  Jewish  Community. 
The  Chairman  of  the  Zionist  Commission. 
Le  Rev.  P^re  Abel  (Ecole  Biblique  de  Saint-Etienne). 
Le  Cafitaine  Barluzzi. 
M.  Ben  Yahuda. 

Capt.  K.  a.  C.  Creswell,  M.B.E.  (Inspector  of  Monuments,  G.S.,  O.E.T.). 
Dr.  M.  D.  Eder. 
Prof.  Patrick  Geddes 
R.  A.  Harari. 

Musa  Kazem  Pasha  el  Husseini  (Ex-Mayor  of  Jerusalem). 
Commander  H.  C.  Luke. 

Capt.  Mackay  (Inspector  of  Monuments,  G.S.,  O.E.T.). 
Mr.  Meyuhas. 

*  Le  Capitaine  Paribeni. 

Mr.  Lazarus  Paul  (Acting  Representative  of  the  Armenian  Patriarch). 

*  Lt.-Col.  E.  L.  Popham. 
Mr.  E.  T.  Richmond. 

Mr.  D.  G.  Salameh  (Ex  Vice-Mayor  of  Jerusalem). 
Dr.  Nahum  Slousch. 
Mr.  Jacob  Spafford. 

*  Lt.-Col.  Waters  Taylor,  C.B.E. 

Le  Rev.  PIre  Vincent  (Dominican  Convent). 

Mr.  John  Whiting,  Hon.  Treasurer. 

Mr.  David  Yellin  (Vice-Mayor  of  Jerusalem), 

C.  R.  Ashbee,  Hon.  Sec,  Civic  Advisor  to  the  City  of  Jerusalem. 

•  Those  marked  with  on  asterisk  are  no  longer  active  numbers. 

XV 


NOTE 

While  there  has  been  careful  collaboration 
between  the  various  writers  of  the  essays  here 
following,  the  Council,  as  well  as  the  in- 
dividual writers,  wish  it  understood  that  the 
latter  alone  take  responsibility  for  any  state- 
ments made. 

The    Council    also    desire    to    thank    the 

American  Colony  for  the  use  of  many  valuable 

photographs . 

Ed. 


JERUSALEM 

191 8-1920 

The  Old  City 

1.  In  the  old  city  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Society  has,  since  the  British 
occupation,  undertaken  several  large  and  a  number  of  minor  pieces  of 
work.  To  several  of  the  former,  such  as  the  cleaning  of  the  Citadel,  the 
clearing  out  of  the  city  fosse,  the  Rampart  Walk,  the  Citadel  Gardens,  the 
repair  of  the  Dome  of  the  Rock,  and  the  restoration  of  the  Suq  el 
Qattanin,  special  sections  will  be  devoted  below. 

The  Society's  objective  has  been  to  regard  the  old  city  as  a  unity 
in  itself,  contained  within  its  wall  circuit,  dominated  by  its  great  castle 
with  the  five  towers,  and  intersected  with  its  vaulted  streets  and  arcades, 
the  houses  often  locked  one  over  the  other,  and  in  separate  ownerships — 
"  Zion  is  a  city  compact  together."  It  is  this  compactness  or  unity,  so 
characteristic  of  Jerusalem,  that  the  Society  has  set  itself  to  preserve. 

2.  Perhaps  the  most  difficult  of  all  these  works  was  the  cleaning  of 
the  Citadel  (see  Illustrations  2  and  3).  This  cleaning  is  by  no  means 
finished,  for  great  masses  of  stone  debris,  the  remains  of  a  late  Turkish 
fortress,  guard-rooms  and  offices,  some  of  which  had  fallen  down  before 
the  war,  and  which  Jemal  Pasha  had  started  to  remove,  have  still  to  be 
cleared  away.  Soon  after  the  British  occupation  of  Jerusalem  the  city 
was  filled  with  thousands  of  refugees,  mainly  from  Es  Salt,  and  to  these 
people  the  Citadel  had  been  handed  over.  There  was  much  sickness, 
the  misery  and  squalor  were  pitiful,  and  it  took  a  long  time  before  the 
relief  officers  were  able  to  cope  with  the  difficulty,  a  still  longer  time  to 
clean  up  after  the  withdrawal  of  the  refugees. 

The  Society  then  worked  out  a  method  by  which  the  clearing  and 
cleaning  should  be  done  by  refugee  labour,  and  such  of  the  refugees  as 
were  able-bodied  were  utilized  in,  so  to  speak,  tidying  up  their  own  house. 
Many  hundreds  of  men,  women,  and  children,  organized  in  different 
working  gangs,  were  used  thus,  as  will  be  seen  by  reference  to  Section  39 
and  Section  21,  where  also  are  shown  pictures  of  the  gangs  at  work. 

To  the  Citadel  itself  much  has  still  to  be  done.  The  roofs  of  some  of 
the  great  vaulted  chambers  are  in  a  serious  condition,  and  should  be 


THE    OLD    CITY 

protected  from  the  rains ;  there  are  dangerous  cracks  at  several  points  In 
the  ancient  masonry,  coping  and  battlements  In  many  places  need  repair. 
But  as  no  money  was  or  Is  yet  at  Its  disposal,  the  Society  has  been 
unable  to  do  anything  beyond  cleaning  and  the  clearing  of  debris.  It  Is 
estimated  that  about  £i,ooo  was  spent  In  this  work,  but  the  bulk  of  It 
was  paid,  not  out  of  Pro-Jerusalem  funds,  but  out  of  the  various  relief 
funds — Muslim,  Christian,  Armenian,  and  Jewish — that  were  from  time 
to  time  put  at  the  disposal  of  the  Military  Governor  by  the  various 
religious  communities. 

3.  The  cleaning  of  the  Citadel  implied  the  cleaning  of  the  fosse. 
The  Turks  had  used  the  fosse  as  a  tlpplng-pit  for  refuse.  On  the  south 
and  east  were  great  cess-pits;  on  the  west  their  plan  had  been  to  fill  it 
up  entirely,  thus  gradually  covering  the  glacis,  and  turning  the  fosse  into 
road  and  building  sites.  They  had  even  at  one  time  proposed  to  sell  the 
ramparts  and  level  them  with  the  fosse  ;  but  this,  fortunately,  pre- 
sented Insurmountable  difficulties.  As  it  was  decided  to  reverse  Turkish 
methods,  a  new  plan  had  to  be  adopted,  and  this  may  be  seen  by  refer- 
ence to  the  Frontispiece.    The  dotted  line  at  A A  indicates  where  the 

fosse  had  been  obliterated  and  thrown  into  the  road.  The  plan  shows 
the  new  gardens  and  terraces  which  the  Society  has  laid  out.     How  is 

the  point  of  junction   at  A A  to  be  treated  ?    This  Involves  one 

of  the  most  important  civic  improvements,  which  will  be  considered  in 
its  place  (see  Section  22). 

4.  The  cleaning  of  the  fosse,  which  led  to  that  method  of  garden - 
planning  just  referred  to,  and  which  will  be  more  fully  described  in 
Section  20,  the  Jerusalem  Park  system,  led  next  to  the  cleaning  of  the 
ramparts,  the  uncovering  of  the  old  sentinels'  walk  round  the  walls,  and 
the  opening  of  some  of  the  ancient  guard-houses,  some  of  which  were 
covered  with  many  feet  of  debris.  Of  these  guard-houses  four  have  been 
uncovered  in  whole  or  part  (see  Illustration  4),  and  of  the  Rampart 
Walk  about  one-half  has  been  opened  out,  and  inconspicuous  iron  hand- 
rails have  been  fixed  at  the  dangerous  points.  From  the  walk  itself 
some  thirty  encroachments  were  removed.  The  type  of  encroachment 
most  common  is  best  seen  in  Illustration  6.  It  consists  usually  in  an 
attempt  to  convert  the  ancient  wall  into  private  property.  In  the  sketch 
shown,  a  is  the  Damascus  Gate,  J  is  a  block  of  dwellings  in  private 
ownership,  and  the  wall  has  been  blocked  at  X  and  Y.  In  this  work  of 
clearing   the  Rampart  Walk  the    Society   has    had  gangs  of  labourer? 


,^. 


«^ 


'»4     E-. 


^^ 


Fti 


in- 


*i;^^. 


"i-J 


i*i 


VuUti 


% 


T      ^       ^-^J 


4 


W:f 


'i)^ 


k^  A  ■* 


Modern  encroachments  that  the 
Society  is  clearing. 


No.  6. 


THE   OLD    CITY 

employed  for  many  months,  and  has  spent  altogether  about  £500,  in  addi- 
tion to  the  sums  earmarked  for  relief  work  from  the  Governor's  special 
funds  (see  Illustrations  4  and  5). 

5.  A  word  may  be  said  about  the  gates  which  are  so  characteristic 
a  feature  of  the  Holy  City.  The  Society  has  been  instrumental  in  clean- 
ing up  or  doing  work  to  the  Damascus  Gate  (Illustration  7),  St.  Stephen's 
Gate  (Illustration  8),  Herod's  Gate,  and  the  Jaffa  Gate  (see  Illustrations 
2  and  3). 

At  the  Jaffa  Gate  it  stopped  the  soldiers  on  one  occasion  from 
turning  the  gate  into  a  camp  kitchen.  At  St.  Stephen's  Gate  a  bath 
contractor  had  appropriated  the  whole  of  the  top  of  the  gate  for  baking 
dung  cakes.  The  Society  had  him  cleared  out,  likewise  the  breeding- 
place  for  flies  which  he  had  assisted  in  establishing.  The  guard-house 
adjoining  the  gate  had  been  used  as  a  public  latrine.  The  Society 
cleaned  and  repaired  this  at  a  cost  of  some  £50  ;  it  was  subsequently 
used  by  the  city  police.  At  Herod's  Gate  the  Society  also  did  protective 
work,  and  repaired  the  gate-house  at  a  cost  of  about  £20,  turning  it 
into  a  home  for  one  of  its  gardeners,  to  whom  a  piece  of  land  adjoining 
was  given.  The  Damascus  Gate  is  about  to  be  handled  in  the  same  way, 
and  the  approach  from  it  to  Herod's  Gate  is  now  being  cleared. 

6.  While  work  was  in  progress  at  the  Zion  or  David's  Gate  quarter, 
where,  adjoining  the  Jewish  Ghetto,  is  one  of  the  worst  slums  in  the  city, 
a  proposal  was  made  for  laying  out  a  children's  recreation  ground.  The 
Society  entered  into  a  contract  with  Mrs.  Norman  Bentwich  on  the  one 
hand,  and  the  Abu  Liya  Wakf  on  the  other,  to  take  over  a  piece  of 
derelict  and  very  filthy  land,  on  a  ten  years'  lease,  at  a  rent  of  £10  a 
year,  to  make  a  playground  of  it.  Mrs.  Bentwich  undertook  the  planting 
and  upkeep  with  the  aid  of  a  band  of  Jewish  girl  gardeners.  The  Society, 
with  the  assistance  of  the  Zionist  Commission,  who  supplied  a  special 
gang  of  labourers,  did  the  laying-out  and  rebuilt  the  walls.  The  Society 
appropriated  the  sum  of  £25  for  this  work,  in  addition  to  the  annual 
rent,  and  exclusive  of  the  sums  disbursed  by  the  Zionist  Commission, 
whose  labour  it  superintended. 

Unfortunately,  after  the  first  work  of  planting  had  been  done  a 
series  of  nightly  raids  was  made  upon  the  garden,  and  it  was  stripped 
of  every  tree,  shrub,  or  flower.  The  police  were  unable  to  give  the  neces- 
sary protection,  and  the  work  had,  for  the  time  being,  to  be  suspended. 
The  present  population  of  the  Holy  City  has  much  to  learn  yet  in  the 


o 


^ 


THE   OLD    CITY 

elementary  duties  of  citizenship.    When  the  little  playground  is  finished 
it  will  come  somewhat  as  shown  in  Illustrations  9  and  10. 


Abu  Liya  Playground.  No.  p. 

In  the  course  of  making  the  playground  certain  discoveries  of  ancient 
work  were  made  which  are  referred  to  by  Pere  Vincent  in  the  chapter  on 
Graeco-Roman  remains  touched  by  the  Society  (see  Section  57). 

7.  On  another  occasion  a  question  of  principle  had  to  be  decided 
which  involved  the  destruction  of  an  old,  if  not  very  important,  land- 
mark. Among  the  most  characteristic  features  of  Jerusalem  are  the 
overhanging  wooden  windows.  The  owners  of  a  certain  Wakf  had 
applied  to  me  for  a  building  permit  which  involved  the  destruction  of 
the  window  shown  in  Illustration  li.  It  is  of  no  great  age,  but  it  has, 
together  with  the  small  domed  room  of  which  it  is  a  part,  a  character 
of  its  own.  The  owners  pleaded  that,  wood  being  so  difficult  to  get,  it 
would  cost  them  much  more  to  retain  and  repair  the  window,  which  was 
falling  into  the  street,  than  to  rebuild  the  wall  flush  and  insert  a  new 
window.     They  were  willing  to  pay  an  extra  £10  in  order  to  save  the 


THE    OLD    CITY 

window,  and  it  was  finally  agreed  that  the  Society  would  contribute  the 
value  of  the  material,  estimated  at  £4,  provided  the  work  of  repair  was 
done  to  the  Society's  satisfaction. 

8.  Perhaps  one  of  the  most  important  pieces  of  work  the  Society 
has  had  to  do  in  the  old  city  has  been  the  preservation  of  the  ancient 
Suqs  and  covered  ways.  Unfortunately,  the  necessary  money  has  not  as 
yet  been  forthcoming  to  do  this  work  as  it  should  be  done.  Mere  patching 
of  ancient  roofs  and  vaults  is  not  enough.  Under  the  unique  conditions 
of  Jerusalem  property  ownership  and  tenure  a  special  system  of  procedure 
had  to  be  worked  out  as  a  preliminary  to  repair.  This  is  now  being 
done,  and  a  grant  or  loan  has  been  promised  by  the  Administration  for 
the  gradual  repair,  coupled  with  the  condition  of  a  pro-rata  le\'y  to  be 
imposed  by  the  municipality  on  all  tenants  and  property  owners. 

The  blizzard  of  February  1920  brought  matters  to  a  head.  As  the 
result  of  it  some  150  houses  collapsed,  and  a  large  part  of  the  Suq 
el  'Attarin  was  in  danger  of  falling  (see  Illustrations  12  to  16). 

The  record  of  this  is  significant.  In  January  and  February  1919 
Pere  Vincent,  Mr.  Ernest  Richmond,  then  Secretary  of  the  Pro-Jerusalem 
Society,  Mr.  Guini,  the  municipal  engineer,  and  I  as  Civic  Advisor,  had 
already  reported  to  the  Society  on  the  dangerous  condition  of  the  Suq. 
Our  reports  advised  the  immediate  expenditure  of  some  £2,000.  But 
the  Administration  had  no  money,  and  nothing  could  be  done.  As  a 
result  of  the  blizzard  the  repair  will  now,  it  is  estimated,  cost  more  like 
£3,000.  All  turns  on  the  complexity  of  the  roof  system  which  covers  the 
streets.  Illustrations  12  and  14  show  the  great  area  to  be  dealt  with, 
and  some  of  the  difficulties.  The  properties  are  all  interlocked,  and  the 
streets  are  lit  and  ventilated  through  stone  louvres  so  designed  as  to 
screen  the  sun  from  the  streets  below.  The  surface  water  drains  off  in 
accordance  with  fall,  and  if  the  roof  or  louvre  is  neglected  at  one  point  it 
may  lead  to  irreparable  damage  to  neighbouring  property.  Illustration  13 
shows  where  one  of  these  louvres  has  collapsed  after  having  been  tem- 
porarily and  badly  patched.  Illustration  12  shows  how  the  vaulting 
stones  are  disintegrating,  and  Illustration  14  shows,  at  the  point  where 
the  men  are  standing,  how  some  twenty  metres  of  wall  has  collapsed  to 
the  danger  of  the  thoroughfare  below.  Illustrations  15  and  16  show  the 
condition  of  the  vaults  below.  At  the  moment  when  orders  were  given 
to  shore,  the  whole  street  at  this  point  was  in  danger  of  giving  way. 

9.  The  Society's  most  important  undertaking  was  the  repair  in  1919 
of  the  Sijq  el  Qattanin  (see   Illustrations  17  and  18).     This,  as  will  be 

6 


Abu   Liya   Playground,  seen  from  the  Bah  Nebi  Da-ud 

{as  a  I  present) 


•Yo.   in. 


r 


^ 


:^^^k^.\\ 


■/ 


Abu  Liya  Playground,  seen  from  the  Bab  Nebi  Da-ud 

{as  suggested) 


No.   10. 


Si: 


Old  wooden  zvindoiv. 


A'o.   IT. 


No.    12. 


On  the  roof  of  Stiq  el.  Attann. 


On  tlw  top  of  Sfiq  rl  Attarin. 


No.   7,\ 


Showing  range'    of   the  Suq  roofs 
looking  west  to  the  Mount  of  Olives 

{Note  falU'ii  uiall) 


No.  14. 


f*-*" 


The  Silq  el  Qattanin. 


C.R  ASHBE-E, 

No.  17. 


a.  The  Central  Arcade. 

b.  Booths  which  have  rooms  over. 

c.  Central  Hall. 

d.  Hammam-es-Shaffei. 


e.  Classroom. 

f.  Dyeing  and  Spinning. 

g.  Reserved  jor  Glass-work. 
h.  Haram-es-Sherif. 


THE   OLD   CITY 

seen  by  reference  to  Captain  Creswell's  description  in  Section  70,  is  one 
of  the  noblest  streets  in  Jerusalem.  The  Society  has  spent  on  this  about 
£1,000.  Had  the  work  not  been  done,  or  had  the  work  been  postponed, 
as  in  the  case  of  the  Suq  el  Qattanin  just  referred  to,  large  portions  of 
the  Suq  would  have  collapsed  in  the  snowstorm. 

Further  references  are  made  to  the  Suq  el  Qattanin  in  connexion  with 
the  weaving  industry,  of  which  it  is  now  the  centre  (see  Section  27). 
Therefore  I  will  refer  here  only  to  the  general  plan,  which  shows  what 
has  been  done  structurally,  and  what  is  still  intended.  This  plan  (see 
Illustration  17)  is  based  upon  that  of  the  Palestine  Survey,  which,  how- 
ever, was  found  to  be  inaccurate.  It  has  not  been  possible  to  correct  it. 
Many  of  the  shops  are  still  walled  up,  and  since  the  date  of  the  Survey 
portions  of  the  old  buildings  to  which  Captain  Creswell  alludes,  those 
on  the  north  side  of  the  plan,  appear  to  have  been  destroyed  to  make 
way  for  a  modern  house. 

10.  Of  the  repairs  to  the  Dome  of  the  Rock  (Illustrations  19  and 
20),  which  the  Society's  assistance  enabled  the  Wakf  authorities  at  a 
critical  period  to  undertake,  a  few  words  must  now  be  said.  Captain 
Creswell's  notes  in  Section  68  should  be  consulted  for  the  latest  his- 
torical data.  For  the  initial  repair  work  the  Society  advanced  the  sum 
of  £232,  and  it  has  since,  at  the  instance  of  the  Administration,  guaran- 
teed an  agreement  between  the  Wakf  and  their  contractor,  Mr.  David 
Ohanessian,  who  has  been  appointed  to  make,  in  the  old  furnaces,  such 
tiles  as  are  needed  for  the  repair  and  upkeep  of  the  building.  The  super- 
vision of  this  important  work  has  been  since  the  outset  in  the  hands  of 
Air.  Ernest  Richmond,  the  advisory  architect  of  the  Wakf,  from  whose 
report  of  March  1919  the  following  extract  is  given  : — 

"To  ensure  complete  immunity  from  decay,  especially  in  the  case 
of  the  more  modern  tiles,  is  impossible.  The  surface  of  this  kind  of  tile 
(of  which  there  are  very  large  numbers)  is  bound  to  disappear  much 
sooner  than  that  of  the  earlier  tiles,  thereby  seriously  increasing  the 
denuded  areas ;  and  the  time  is  not  far  distant,  if  indeed  it  has  not 
already  arrived,  when  the  following  question  will  have  to  be  answered: 
'Is  the  method  adopted  in  the  sixteenth  century  of  decorating  the  outer 
walls  of  this  building  with  glazed  tiles  to  be  continued  in  the  future,  or 
is  that  system  to  be  abandoned  .?' 

"Efforts  have  for  the  last  400  years  been  made  to  maintain  that 
system.  Repair  after  repair  has  been  carried  out.  Whatever  we  may 
think  of  the  methods  followed  we  must  at  least  acknowledge  the  effort 

8 


No.   rS. 


SHq  el  Oattanin — Main  Arcade. 


Dome  of  the  Rock. 


Dome  oj  the  Rock. 


THE    OLD    CITY 

and  admire  the  perseverance  with  which  it  has  been  made  through 
many  generations,  and  in  spite  of  the  obvious  difficulties  caused  by 
unsatisfactory  methods  of  administration. 

"Tiles  have  decayed  in  the  past,  and  tiles  will  decay  in  the  future; 
some  rapidly,  some  less  so ;  some  by  natural  and  unavoidable  causes, 
others  by  reason  of  neglect  or  lack  of  skill.  In  the  past  they  have  always 
been  replaced  in  some  form  or  other,  though  with  varying  success  and 
uneven  skill. 

"If,  in  the  future,  the  general  policy  followed  throughout  400  years 
up  till  the  present  century  of  keeping  the  building  endowed  with  a  tiled 
surface  is  to  be  continued,  those  responsible  will  have  at  least  in  one 
particular  to  follow  the  example  of  the  past  ;  that  is  to  say,  they  will 
have  to  provide  new  tiles.  This,  of  course,  does  not  exempt  them  from 
doing  all  that  can  be  done  to  preserve  those  that  still  exist,  and  in  this 
matter  the  future  guardians  of  the  building  may  well  do  better  than 
some  of  their  predecessors. 

"  If  we  admit,  as  I  think  we  are  bound  to  admit,  that  the  Dome  of 
the  Rock  is  not  merely  a  building  of  archaeological  interest,  but  also  a 
symbol  of  something  very  much  alive,  we  must  also  allow  that  there  is 
something  to  be  said  for  maintaining  the  outward  and  visible  sign  of 
that  vitality.  All  skin  decays,  but  so  long  as  there  is  life  in  the  body 
which  it  covers  its  tissues  are  continually  renewed. 

"So  long  then  as  the  Dome  of  the  Rock  remains  a  live  building — a 
building,  that  is  to  say,  which  is  an  integral  part  in  the  life  that  surrounds 
it — so  long  as  it  fulfils  the  functions  it  has  fulfilled  for  1,200  years,  so 
long  must  its  skin  be  continually  renewed  in  some  manner  or  other,  by 
marble  or  by  mosaic,  by  tiles  or  by  cement;  for  the  walls  have  been  too 
much  hacked  about,  in  order  to  provide  a  key  by  which  to  fix  surface 
decoration,  to  make  it  tolerable  that  they  should  become  entirely  denuded; 
nor  does  cement  seem  a  satisfactory  or  adequate  covering  to  this  building. 
Within  an  appreciable  number  of  years  the  choice  will  lie  between  cement 
as  a  covering  to  a  considerable  proportion  of  the  building,  or  new  tiles." 

This  extract  may  not  inaptly  be  followed  by  the  Grand  Mufti's 
eloquent  appeal  to  Islam.  It  is  translated  from  the  Arabic,  and  appeared 
in  the  Arabic  papers  on  4  and  5  December  1918. 

"Peace  be  upon  you,  and  the  grace  of  God  and  His  blessings.  This 
sacred  Mosque,  to  which  God  translated  His  Prophet  one  night  from  the 
Mosque  in  Mecca,  and  in  which  one  prostration  before  God  is  counted 
by  him  as  five  hundred — is  it  not  the  Aqsa  Mosque  which  God  has 
blessed  ?    Yet  it  is  neglected,  and  for  several  decades  was  overlooked, 


THE    OLD    CITY 

until  decay  has  set  in  in  its  frame,  and  its  ornamentation  has  faded,  and 
the  whole  edifice  stands  in  peril  of  disruption,  which  may  God  avert. 
Who  desires  the  loss  of  this  precious  gem,  unique  in  its  grandeur, 
its  form,  its  architecture,  the  soundness  of  its  foundation,  and  the  per- 
fection of  its  structure — this  wonderful  building,  the  site  of  which  may 
not  be  seen  on  the  face  of  the  earth,  which  causes  the  greatest  architects 
to  shake  their  heads  in  wonder  and  to  confess  their  incapacity  to  produce 
its  like  even  were  they  all  to  put  their  heads  together? 

"Now,  when  the  men  of  the  Occupying  Power,  and,  in  particular, 
H.  E.  Colonel  Storrs,  Governor  of  the  Holy  Citj^,  saw  the  ruined  state  in 
which  stood  the  Mosque,  and  learnt  that  the  revenues  derived  from  its 
private  wakfs  (i.e.  without  even  taking  into  account  the  difficulty  of 
obtaining  rents  at  all  in  those  days)  do  not  exceed  what  is  required  by 
way  of  expenditure  for  the  maintenance  of  religious  rites — when  Colonel 
Storrs  saw  that,  it  was  an  eyesore  to  him,  and  he  expressed  his  deep 
regret,  and  set  about  at  once — may  God  watch  over  him — and  applied 
for  an  able  engineer  of  those  who  have  specialized  in  the  repairs  of  ancient 
places  of  worship. 

"His  appeal  met  with  prompt  response,  for  very  soon  the  British 
Government  sent  out  from  its  capital,  London,  the  most  celebrated 
engineer  and  the  most  competent  for  this  great  work.  This  is  Major 
Richmond,  known  to  the  greater  part  of  our  Egyptian  brethren  for  the 
good  work  done  by  him  in  their  own  places  of  worship.  No  sooner 
arrived  than  he  set  to  work  at  once,  tucking  up  his  shirt-sleeves  of  activity, 
and  displaying  the  utmost  interest  in  minutely  examining  and  investi- 
gating, and  then  reporting  on  what  ought  to  be  done.  Having  examined 
everything  bit  by  bit,  and  with  the  utmost  care,  he  drew  up  a  report 
fully  explaining  what  was  required  for  the  restoration  and  preservation 
of  this  noble  edifice,  and  dwelt  specially  on  the  necessity  of  speedily 
setting  to  work.  He  also  showed  in  an  estimate  that  to  get  materials, 
apparatus,  and  the  skilled  labour  which  is  required  for  such  delicate 
work,  would  necessitate  about  £80,000,  which  is  not  much  if  the  object 
be  to  preserve  such  sacred  precincts  to  which  humanity  flocks  from  all 
parts  of  the  world  ;  not  much — God  willing — for  those  charitable,  good 
people  who  wish  to  lend  God  a  pious  loan  which  He  will  repay  to  them 
times  over,  to  extend  their  generous  hands  towards  Him  from  all  parts 
of  the  globe,  east  and  west,  and  answer  His  call,  which  is  His,  by  saying  : 
'Lo  !  Our  riches  we  entail  unto  Thee.'  For  verily  he  erects  the  Mosques 
of  God  who  believes  in  God.  Verily,  also,  God  will  not  suffer  good  works 
to  go  unrewarded." 


10 


The   New   Town   Plan 

II.  Passing  from  the  Society's  activities  in  the  care  and  upkeep  of 
the  old  city,  we  now  come  to  the  New  Jerusalem.  Its  first  thought  here 
has  been  the  new  Town  Plan.  All  modern  civic  regulation  points  to  the 
need  of  town-planning.  The  plan  is  the  index  or  method  on  which  the 
orderliness  of  a  city  is  based.  But  a  Town  Plan,  especially  in  an  Eastern 
city,  implies  much  more  than  the  mere  laying  out  of  streets  and 
alignments.  The  Arabs  have  a  word  "  tartib,"  formed  from  the  verb 
"rattab,"  to  make  tidy,  and  meaning  the  method  or  scheme  on  which 
work  is  to  be  undertaken ;  this  "  tartib,"  or  method  of  how  to  make 
tidy,  is  what  we  have  to  consider.  The  confusion  into  which  industrialism 
has  thrown  all  the  conditions  of  life,  whether  in  east  or  west,  has  made 
the  Town  Plan  essential  for  every  city  that  is  in  any  way  alive.  It  is 
doubly  necessary  for  a  city  which  has  been  threatened,  as  has  Jerusalem, 
with  violent  changes  in  the  last  twenty-five  years,  and  has  at  the  same 
time  a  unique  record,  an  immense  wealth  of  historic  building,  and  a 
curious  and  romantic  beauty  of  its  own. 

But  a  Town  Plan  for  such  a  city  depends  for  its  excellence  on — 

(a)  Its  grasp  of  certain  principles,  social  as  well  as  architectural ; 

(b)  Its  power  of  adaptability ; 

(c)  The  administrative  machinery  that  is  set  up  to  give  intelli- 

gent eff"ect  to  the  plan. 

If  the  principles  are  ignored — e.g.,  the  religious  divisions  of  a  com- 
munity, or  the  industrial  needs,  or  the  question  of  water  supply,  or  the 
observation  of  contours — or  if  the  sanitary  needs  are  over  or  under  esti- 
mated, or  the  prevalent  winds  ignored,  or  the  planting  of  the  trees,  or 
the  education  of  the  city's  children,  or  if  any  of  these  things  are  insuffi- 
ciently considered,  the  whole  plan  may  be  impaired.    Or,  again,  if  a  plan 
be  so  rigid  in  its  conception  that  it  checks  the  normal  development  of 
any  of  these  things,  it  is  like  a  panel  that  cracks.     We  get  a  different 
result  from  that  of  our  anticipation.    A  good  plan  must  have  power  of 
variability,  as  a  good  bit  of  wainscoting  must  move  with  the  wind  and 
the  sun  and  yet  not  give.     To  make  this  variability  possible  there  must 
be  an  administrative  machinery  having  power  to  modify  the  plan  in 
accordance  with  the  principles  on  which  it  is  being  worked  out,  for  the 
principles  themselves   may  change,   and   they  certainly  need   constant 
study.      This  study  is  the  concern  of  the  politician  and  the  sociologist 
quite  as  much  as  of  the  draughtsman,  the  architect,  or  the  engineer. 

II 


THE   NEW   TOWN    PLAN 

12.  It  follows  from  these  considerations  that  a  good  plan  cannot 
be  the  work  of  one  man  only.  It  must  be  the  study  of  many  minds, 
imply  a  co-ordinated  knowledge  focused  upon  the  city  which  it  is 
sought  to  ennoble,  or  to  which  the  "tartib,"  or  system  of  tidiness, 
is  to  be  applied. 

There  have  been  many  plans  prepared  for  the  Holy  City  during 
recent  years  in  whole  or  part,  and  by  many  different  people.  There 
have  been  the  various  plans  projected  and  in  part  carried  out  by  Jemal 
Pasha  and  the  German  architects,  who  were  called  in  to  reconstruct 
portions  of  the  city  or  make  new  roads  before  the  British  occupation. 
There  were  the  plans  and  the  new  streets  of  Ephthemius,  the  Greek 
priest ;  there  was  the  plan  of  Mr.  Victor  Hamberg ;  there  is  the  official 
plan  of  Mr.  Guini,  the  municipal  engineer,  upon  which  he  and  his  staff 
have  been  working  for  over  a  year  now — the  plan  of  the  city  as  it 
actually  is  ;  there  are  the  plans  of  Mr.  McLean  (see  Illustration  21) 
and  Professor  Geddes  (see  Illustration  22)  ;  and  there  are  the  various 
plans  of  portions  of  the  city  emanating  now  from  the  Public  Works 
Department,  now  from  the  Municipality,  or  from  my  own  office  as 
the  need   arises. 

13.  It  is  necessary  here  to  make  special  reference  to  the  plans 
of  Mr.  McLean  and  Professor  Geddes,  because  they  provide,  after  the 
official  plan  of  Mr.  Guini,  the  main  lines  upon  which  the  final  Town 
Plan  is  likely  to  be  carried  out. 

The  distinctive  quality  of  the  McLean  plan,  as  will  be  seen  by 
reference  to  the  reproduction  (No.  21),  is  that  it  isolates  the  Holy  City; 
sets  it,  so  to  speak,  in  the  centre  of  a  park,  thus  recognizing  the  appeal  it 
makes  to  the  world — the  city  of  an  idea — that  needs  as  such  to  be  pro- 
tected. The  Geddes  plan,  which  should  be  studied  with  the  McLean 
plan  (see  No.  22),  accepts  this  guiding  principle,  but  pays  more  attention 
to  contours,  saves  a  large  sum  on  roads,  and  being  based  on  more  precise 
data,  and  with  the  experience  of  many  more  months  of  study  than  it  was 
possible  to  give  during  the  earlier  periods  of  the  military  occupation, 
carries  us  farther.  The  Geddes  plan  revealed  the  fact  that  the  maps 
and  measurements  upon  which  both  the  McLean  and  the  Geddes  plans 
were  based  proved  to  be  faulty.  I  have  myself  noted  variations  of 
150  feet.  In  a  sharply  undulated  district  such  as  Jerusalem,  where 
there  are  steep  ascents  and  deep  valleys  in  close  proximity,  this  brings 
us  immediately  to  the  principle  involved  in  contours.  It  is  not  as  on  the 
level  plain,  where  you  can,  so  to  speak,  drag  your  net  and  yet  achieve 

12 


G 

3c 
oi 
in 
of 


y^.H.M 


JERUSALEM  TOWN  PLANNING  SCHEME  No. I 


General  Plan  of  the  Scheme  for  the  Re^to 
^Preservation  of  the  Ancient  City''"*^^^ 
of  the  Modern  City :  &  show- 
ing'  the  Lines  of  Developme 
of  the  Future  City.  ^ 


Df^§.CRIPT10N  OF  THE  SCHEME 

\^01d  City  within  the  Walls. 

't^edixual  aspect  Co  be  preserve^.  New 
bu%iciin^s  fTiay  be  permitted  under 
sped>n^  conditions. 
i2.Arei^betwcen  City  Walls  ^BrownLine. 
No  /7cV  buildings  to  be  permitted  and 
the  are\  to  be  euentually  a  clear  bele 
\in  its  ntatt/ra/  state. 

3.  Aren  between  Brown  Line  &. 
JDotted   Brown  Line. 
auildinijs  may  be  erected onlu 
vith  special  approval &.  under 
Ipecial  conditions  rendering 


ut^ide  dotted  BrownLine. 
■/i|  area  planned  for  future 
■rf.  The  plan  shows  thealign- 
ments  cf' future  streets  and  open 
paces  'and  the  improuenients  of 
existing  streets. 


,0/ 

This  scheme  was  prepared  at  the 
retfuest  of  the  Military  Authorities 
for  the  Municipality  of  Jerusalem. 


W.  H.  Me  Lean,  M.  Inst  C.E.,  I9IS 


£fTiee^W<itket  LimUtd,tc 
No.     J I 


Prof  Patrick  Geddes.  1919. 


£„,,ruWalktr  L:c/..i 


THE   NEW   TOWN    PLAN 

the  same  effect  of  checkers  or  diagrams.  Were  we  to  do  this  across  the 
undulations  of  Jerusalem  we  might  find  ourselves  planning  up  in  the  sky, 
or  our  level  road  falling  down  a  steep  incline. 

The  Guini  survey,  which  is  correcting  the  inaccuracies  of  the  Turkish 
and  German  mapping,  will  make  it  possible  to  carry  out  more  scientifi- 
cally that  co-ordination  of  the  two  plans  upon  which  we  are  now  engaged. 
Here  again  the  direct  assistance  of  the  Society  has  been  given.  Realizing 
that  the  success  of  the  plan  depended  upon  the  survey,  the  Society  has 
given  active  support  to  Mr.  Guini's  office;  it  has  paid  for  the  printing 
of  the  plans,  and  set  aside  some  £70  for  what  is  even  more  Important,  a 
contour  model,  towards  which  the  American  Colony  have  kindly  offered 
to  contribute  in  labour  and  supervision.  Further,  the  Society  has  under- 
taken to  pay  for  a  series  of  aerial  photographs  which  the  Royal  Air 
Force  is  preparing. 

14.  But  neither  the  McLean  plan,  the  Geddes  plan,  nor  the  Guini 
survey  provides  one  thing  which  is  essential  to  the  future  of  the  city. 
This  is  the  "  zoning "  system,  by  which  the  city  will  be  divided  into 
areas  of  occupation,  residence,  amenities,  social  service,  etc.  Such 
a  system  can  only  result  from  the  reasoned  need  of  the  citizens  them- 
selves. To  effect  it  some  sort  of  civic  commission  is  required.  You 
can  only  compel  up  to  a  certain  point,  and  you  must  have  the  logic 
of  the  general  need  behind  you  before  deciding  how  far  compulsion 
may  be  carried. 

Then  political  and  industrial  considerations  enter.  The  two  plaas 
before  us  illustrate  this  very  nicely.  The  McLean  plan  assumes  the  rail- 
way station  as  the  point  round  which  the  main  growth  of  the  city  is  to 
be.  The  Geddes  plan  starts  from  the  hypothesis  of  a  University  develop- 
ment mainly  towards  Mount  Scopus.  Who  can  yet  say  that  the  city  will 
spread  to  the  north-east,  as  Professor  Geddes  suggests,  or  to  the  south- 
west, as  postulated  by  Mr.  McLean  ?  Is  there  likely  to  be  sufficient  indus- 
trial development  to  warrant  both  assumptions  .''  Other  equally  impor- 
tant considerations  enter  :  Will  the  University  be  a  Zionist  University 
merely,  or  will  it  be  frankly  non-sectarian,  a  University  in  which  all 
the  world  shares  .?  Professor  Geddes,  in  his  report,  has  thrown  down 
the  glove  to  Jewry.  Will  the  challenge  be  taken  up  .''  It  is  a  question 
for  the  Jews  alone,  but  the  result  of  their  decision  will  profoundly  affect 
the  city's  future — may  shift  the  axis  of  its  development  and  revolutionize 
the  Town  Plan.  Until  we  can  see  ahead  more  clearly  we  cannot  zone, 
and  until  we  zone  we  cannot  make  our  Town  Plan  effective. 

13 


THE   NEW    TOWN    PLAN 

15.  I  said  above  (Section  ll)  that  the  Town  Plan  depended  for  its 
third  requisite  upon  the  administrative  machinery  set  up.  That  so  far 
has  been  met,  rather  inadequately,  by  the  office  which  it  is  my  privilege 
to  hold  as  Civic  Advisor.  The  various  decisions  which  the  Military 
Governor  of  Jerusalem  has  had  to  give  on  questions  of  civic  development 
have  been  referred  to  me,  and  no  one  under  the  Public  Notice  No.  34  of 
8  April  191 8  could  "demolish,  erect,  alter,  or  repair"  without  first  obtain- 
ing a  permit  from  the  Military  Governor.  These  are  municipal  functions. 
I  had  nearly  500  applications  through  my  hands  between  October 
1918  and  June  1920.  When  the  permit  is  granted  it  becomes  the  Munici- 
pality's work  to  see  that  it  is  effectively  carried  out,  and  to  collect  the 
revenue  under  the  conditions  of  Turkish  law. 

It  is  on  the  side  of  the  amenities,  of  the  finer  civic  development, 
and  of  archzeology,  that  the  office  of  the  Civic  Advisor  touches  the  Pro- 
Jerusalem  Society.  All  important  cases,  such  as  those  referred  to  in 
Sections  17  and  25,  I  submitted  for  the  consideration  of  the  Council  before 
taking  action  upon  them.  How  immensely  helpful  this  has  been  these 
records  will,  I  trust,  show. 


The  Arch^ological  Needs  of 
THE   Holy  City 


i6.  Of  the  500  requests  for  building  permits  referred  to  in  the  pre- 
ceding section  perhaps  25  per  cent,  have  involved  questions  of  archaeology. 
Many  of  the  requests  have  been  quite  trifling,  but  sometimes  the  most 
trifling  have  had  far-reaching  civic  and  archaeological  consequences. 
The  David  Street  Market,  to  which  special  reference  is  made  in  Section  25 
(see  Illustration  54),  is  a  case  in  point.  So  also  is  the  Park  system  (Sec- 
tions 19  to  23),  on  a  portion  of  which,  in  the  area  surrounding  the  Jaffa 
Gate,  I  have  already  refused  some  thirty  applications  to  build.  Other 
cases  again  are  those  dealt  with  in  Sections  2,  3,  5,  6,  7,  9  of  these  records, 
and  those  with  which  I  deal  in  the  ensuing  section. 

17.  The  system  on  which  we  work  at  present  is  that  all  cases  of 
archaeological  importance  are  presented  at  the  monthly  Pro-Jerusalem 
meetings,  and  the  opinion  of  the  various  experts  is  secured  before  action 
is  taken.  Thus  the  matter  of  the  saving  of  the  Roman  staircase  at 
Siloam  (see  Illustration  76),  dealt  with  by  Pere  Vincent  in  Section  58, 
was  reported  on  before  it  was  sent  up  to  the  Chief  Administrator  as  an 
infringement  of  his  proclamation  (see  Appendix  VI).  In  this  case  the 
Society  conducted  the  prosecution  against  a  building  contractor  who  had 
stolen  some  twenty  tons  of  Roman  stonework,  which  he  carried  off  by 
night  on  the  backs  of  donkeys.  The  man  was  fined  £50,  and  had  to 
return  the  stones;  but,  of  course,  they  could  never  be  put  back  again 
into  the  positions  from  which  they  had  been  taken,  and  in  which  the 
Bliss  and  Dickie  excavations  revealed  them. 

The  case  of  the  falling  Suqs  has  been  already  dealt  with  in  Section  8. 
This  case  led  to  a  special  report,  which  I  was  asked  to  make  for  the 
Chief  Administrator,  with  the  object  of  arranging  a  loan  or  grant  in  aid 
to  the  Municipality  for  the  permanent  upkeep  of  the  Suqs,  together  with 
a  property  levy. 

A  good  illustration  of  how  the  system  works  is  the  Hammam  el 
Batrak,  the  "Bath  of  the  Patriarch,"  an  eighteenth-century  Muslim 
building.  A  permit  had  been  asked  for  to  repair  certain  shops  in  Chris- 
tian Street  (see  Illustration  24),  and  at  one  of  them  {b),  the  old  entrance 
to  the  Hammam,  the  stone  mastabahs  were  already  being  removed  and 
broken   up.     It  appeared,   on   investigation,   that  it  was   proposed   to 

15 


THE    ARCH^OLOGICAL    NEEDS    OF   THE    HOLY    CITY 

abandon  the  bath  and  construct  modern  shops  upon  it.  It  seemed  a 
pity  to  do  this,  at  least  without  reservation,  in  respect  of  those  portions 
of  the  eighteenth-century  structure  that  were  most  worth  saving.  A 
special  meeting  of  the  Council  was  therefore  held  on  the  site,  and  the 
various  schemes  considered.  It  was  finally  decided  that  permission 
should  not  be  given  to  the  owners  to  remove  the  bath,  and  that  they 
should  be  advised  to  repair  the  building  for  continued  use  as  a  bath 
with  shops  adjoining.  If  that  were  found  to  be  no  longer  practicable  it 
was  intimated  that  the  modified  scheme  shown  in  Illustration  24  e  and  g 
might  be  approved  for  conversion  into  a  cafe  of  that  part  of  the  building 
most  worth  preserving,  i.e.  the  large  vaulted  room  (see  Illustration  23). 
This  scheme  postulated  the  new  shops  shown  at  a  a  ain  the  part  hatched 
in  the  illustration,  and  a  small  public  garden  g.  The  ruksahs  were  there- 
upon issued  in  the  Governor's  name. 

18.  How  then  shall  we  determine  in  the  future  the  archaeological  needs 
of  the  Holy  City  .''  On  the  hypothesis  that  we  shall  continue  to  administer 
Turkish  law,  with  possible  British  modification,  what  ought  to  be  done  ? 

The  Pro-Jerusalem  Council  has  been  gradually  shaping  for  itself  the 

following  programme.     It  will  be  seen  that  some  of  the  objects  aimed 

at  are  beyond  its  powers,  and  need  administrative  support ;  others,  of 

necessity,  have  awaited  the  coming  of  a  permanent  civil  government  : — 

(i)  Detailed  and  S3^stematic  survey  and  registration  of  all  historic 

monuments  in  the  Kaza  of  Jerusalem. 

(2)  The  establishment  on  and   through  the  Council  of  a  body 

of  opinion  guided  by  men  who  have  not  only  the  technical  and 
archaeological  knowledge,  but  the  authority  to  carry  through 
administratively  any  policy  that  has  been  agreed  upon. 

(3)  The  co-ordination,  with  the  aid  of  the  Municipality  and  such 

services  as  are  still  in  military  hands,  of  the  various  civic 
functions  that  touch  archjeology— e.g.,  the  granting  of 
ruksahs,  the  laying  on  of  water,  or  the  placing  of  drains  in 
the  old  city ;  the  opening  out  of  ancient  streets,  especially 
where  destroyed  by  the  blizzard  of  1920;  the  repair  of  the 
Suqs  by  means  of  administrative  order,  and  the  levy  on 
property  owners ;  the  making  of  new  roads  in  the  suburbs 
of  Jerusalem,  especially  where  these  are  on  the  lines  of  old 
Roman  roads. 

(4)  The  making  of  regulations   as   to  movable   antiquities,  their 

finding,  safeguarding,  or  sale,  and  the  unauthorized  or 
illicit  digging  that  may  bring  them  to  light. 

16 


Hammhm  el  Batrak — The  Large  Hall. 


No.  23. 


8  S-lt: 

«*-  >  ^S  ■« 


4 


<Q^    W^ 


THE   ARCH^OLOGICAL    NEEDS    OF   THE    HOLY    CITY 

In  regard  to  (i),  the  survey,  much  has  already  been  done.  It  is 
stored  in  the  Governorate  files,  of  which  there  are  several  thousand,  or 
at  the  Municipality.  Large  numbers  of  photographic  records  have  been 
taken,  and  plans  and  drawings  made.  All  this  should  later  on  be  sys- 
tematized, and  when  the  actual  register  of  Jerusalem  historic  monuments 
is  made,  it  should,  if  necessary,  be  incorporated.  Such  an  official  survey 
of  "Monuments  historiques"  is  the  first  thing  to  be  done,  and  an  admini- 
strative grant  should  be  made  for  it. 

In  regard  to  (2),  the  composition  of  the  Council  is  in  itself  a  guarantee 
for  the  careful  consideration  of  questions  as  they  arise.  All  the  local 
archaeologists,  and  those  appointed  by  the  Military  Administration,  have 
from  time  to  time  served  on  the  Council,  and,  further,  the  Council  has  on 
it  men,  such  as  the  Grand  Mufti,  the  Mayor,  and  the  heads  of  the  religious 
communities,  who  can  give  the  necessary  sanction  to  its  decisions. 

That  brings  us  to  (3)  co-ordination.  The  weakness  of  any  military 
regime  in  civil  matters  is  its  inadaptability  to  civil  needs.  It  can 
guarantee  no  continuity  ;  its  judgment  in  the  appointment  of  officials  is 
often  determined  by  considerations  not  germane  to  the  appointment,  and 
the  personal  responsibility  of  those  appointed  rests  of  necessity  with  the 
military  superior,  and  not  with  the  man  who  has  to  do  the  job.  A  military 
regime,  in  other  words,  is  concerned,  and  rightly,  with  other  things. 
Through  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Council,  however,  it  was  often  possible  to 
effect  co-ordination,  and  draw  together  interests  that  could  not  in  any 
other  ways  have  been  focused  upon  the  amenities  of  the  Holy  City. 

Lastly,  the  Council  has  had,  perforce,  while  awaiting  the  arrival  of 
a  permanent  Administration,  to  consider  and  solve  problems  of  an 
archaeological  character  which  would  properly  be  within  the  province  of 
a  Department  of  Antiquities.  The  Council  may  reasonably  claim  to  have 
earned  the  gratitude  of  archaeologists  for  the  action  it  has  taken  in  the 
best  interests  of  the  historical  monuments  of  Jerusalem.  It  is  now  to  be 
anticipated  that  a  permanent  department  of  Palestine  antiquities  will  be 
instituted,  and  definite  co-ordination  established  between  the  activities 
of  the  Society  and  those  of  the  department.  The  Council  will  doubtless 
view  this  prospect  with  the  greatest  satisfaction,  especially  in  view  of  the 
additional  strength  and  efficiency  which  such  a  combination  would  give 
them  in  their  special  field. 


18 


a.b 
c.d 
e.f 


J- 
k. 


1. 

m. 
n. 
o. 

P- 

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r. 

s. 

t. 

u. 

V. 

w: 

y- 

z. 


o  o   o; 


C.R.Ashbee,  ly2i 


£mcr^  Walker  Ltd.SC. 
No.  2 J 


The  Park  System 

19.  Perhaps  the  greatest  need  of  Jerusalem,  after  the  preservation 
of  its  history  and  the  cleaning  of  its  streets,  is  gardens,  shade,  and 
afforestation. 

It  is  said  that  the  city  has  never  recovered  the  destruction  of  the 
timber  cut  down  by  Titus  in  the  siege  of  a.d.  70.  The  siege  of  Godfrey  de 
Bouillon  nearly  failed  for  want  of  timber  ;  and  the  Turks,  though 
creditable  gardeners,  never  made  good  the  wastage  of  the  end  of  classic 
civilization.  Professor  Geddes,  in  his  report  to  the  Zionist  Commission,  has 
some  valuable  comments,  with  diagrams,  on  the  question  of  rainfall  and 
plantation  in  Palestine.  Water  and  plantation  in  Jerusalem  go  hand  in 
hand.  They  react  on  one  another.  Plant  trees  and  you  get  more  rain; 
store  your  rainfall  in  a  thirsty  land  and  you  can  plant  your  trees.  Indeed, 
the  difficulties  are  enormous;  and,  so  far,  they  have  been  too  great  for  us 
to  do  much.  They  are  labour,  transport,  water  storage  and  its  applica- 
tion through  the  long  nine  months  of  drought,  and  protection  from  the 
goat.  There  are  really  only  two  months  in  each  year  when  planting  can 
be  safely  done.  In  the  planting  season  of  191 8-19  the  Pro-Jerusalem 
Society  planted  about  200  trees.  In  the  season  of  1919-20  about  2,000. 
With  proper  resources  we  hope  to  plant  in  the  city  or  about  it  4,000 
annually.  It  is  not  the  planting  that  is  the  difficulty,  but  the  tending 
(see  Section  6). 

20.  As  the  Citadel  Gardens  and  the  Rampart  Walk  will  be  the  core 
of  the  Jerusalem  Park  system,  this  is  the  proper  place  to  speak  of  them. 
The  plans  shown  in  Illustrations  25,  26,  21,  and  22  explain  this.  They 
should  be  studied  in  relation  to  one  another.  The  key  plan  (Illustra- 
tion 26)  shows  the  Rampart  Walk  as  the  centre  of  the  Park  system,  the 
spinal  cord  on  which  is  to  be  built  the  whole  series  of  parks,  gardens, 
and  open  spaces  of  which  the  new  city  will  be  composed.  To  the  south- 
west of  this  plan  is  the  Citadel.  The  large  plan  (Illustration  25)  shows  the 
Park  system  as  a  whole.  It  is  an  attempt  to  co-ordinate  the  different  areas 
it  is  proposed  to  reserve,  and  in  the  centre  of  which  the  Holy  City  is  to  be  set. 
In  this  plan  the  modern  building  area  which  lies  to  the  north-east  and  south 
is  left  blank,  and  only  a  few  salient  points  are  shown.  Turning  back  now 
to  Illustration  I  {Frontispiece),  we  see  the  Citadel  enlarged.  The  Citadel 
Gardens  (Illustrations  27  to  3 1)  are  to  be  the  entrance  to  the  whole  system. 
The  eight  areas  now  being  handled  are  marked  around  the  wall  enceinte, 
beginning  at  the  Citadel  area  I,  and  ending  at  the  point  where  area  VIII 

19 


No.  26. 


Key  Plan  of  the  Rampart  Walk. 


I  Citadel  area. 

II  Armenian  Concent  area. 

III  Zi'on  GaU  {Bab  en  Nebi  Da-ud)  area. 

IV  Tyropaum. 

V  Bezetha. 

VI  Damascus  Gate  (Bab  el  Amud)  area. 

VII  New  GaU  (Bab  el  Jedid)  area. 

VIII  Jafa  GaU  (Bab  el  Khalil)  area. 


a.  home  of  the  Rock. 

b.  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre. 

c.  Herod's  Gate. 

d.  Pool  of  Hezekiah. 

e.  Birket  Israel. 

i.  Birket  SiU  Miriam. 

g.  El  Aqsa  Mosque. 

h.  David  Street. 


30 


Liiiiu.et   Gate — South   Terrace. 


xVo.  2y. 


THE    PARK    SYSTEM 

touches  area  I  after  the  wall  circuit  has  been  made.  We  approach  at  the 
main  or  eastern  entrance  of  the  Citadel  over  what  was  once  the  drawbridge, 
and  near  where  Lord  Allenby  made  his  proclamation  on  the  surrender  of  the 
city.  The  Society  proposes  to  commemorate  the  spot  with  an  inscription. 
We  then  pass  southwards  by  a  series  of  steps,  walks,  terraces,  and  plan- 
tations, laid  out  in  the  ancient  fosse,  about  the  glacis,  and  round  the 
various  towers,  to  the  Rampart  Walk.  This  walk  will  ultimately  take  us 
right  round  the  city,  and  bring  us  out  at  the  Jaffa  Gate  immediately  to 
the  north-west  of  the  Citadel. 

The  fosse,  before  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Society  took  it  in  hand,  was  a 
public  latrine,  and,  worse,  it  was  a  refuse  heap  for  dead  carcasses  and 
decomposing  matter.  The  Illustrations  27  to  31  will  show  into  what 
this  has  been  converted.  In  the  designing  of  this  garden  I  have 
followed  the  architectural  lines  of  the  Citadel  which  it  embraces,  and 
every  successive  point  as  we  reach  it  is  dominated  by  the  solemn 
masses  of  the  ancient  stonework.  The  trees  planted  have  been  olive, 
fig,  eucalyptus,  almond,  cypress,  mimosa,  pepper,  trumpet-tree,  and 
sumac.  All  trees  will  be  kept  low  so  as  not  to  interfere  with  the 
scale  of  the  buildings.  Jackaranda  were  tried,  but  the  wind  and  cold 
destroyed  them.  The  illustrations  show  a  number  of  other  shrubs, 
plants,  etc. 

In  making  this  garden  I  had  the  assistance  of  Captain  T.  B.  Mathieson 
and  Sir  John  Burnet.  The  latter  happened  to  be  in  Jerusalem  working 
on  the  graves  memorial  when  a  portion  of  the  south  terrace  was  being 
laid  out.  To  the  former,  who  was  in  charge  of  the  Jerusalem  police,  I 
am  particularly  indebted,  not  only  for  the  unique  horticultural  know- 
ledge he  placed  unreservedly  at  the  Society's  disposal,  but  for  his  constant 
and  unfailing  personal  help. 

21.  The  Rampart  Walk  will  be  the  spinal  cord  of  the  Jerusalem 
Park  system.  It  will,  when  completed,  be  the  largest,  and  perhaps 
the  most  perfect,  mediaeval  enceinte  in  existence.  Carcasonne,  Chester, 
Nuremberg,  are  parallel  cases,  but  none  of  them  comes  up  to  Jerusalem 
in  romantic  beauty  and  grandeur.  Some  of  the  main  points  in  the 
Jerusalem  Rampart  Walk  may  be  studied  in  the  illustrations  here  given, 
and  its  relation  to  the  Park  system  as  a  whole  will  be  best  seen  in 
Illustration  25.  I  will  now  take  the  illustrations  in  order,  beginning 
at  the  entrance  by  the  Jaffa  Gate.  Here  at  the  junction  of  the  wall  with 
the  fosse  a  stone  stairway  has  been  built  to  make  access  possible.  The 
point  is  just  behind  the  minaret  in  Illustration  I  {Frontispiece),  and  the 

21 


THE    PARK    SYSTEM 

line  of  the  ramparts  may  be  traced  to  the  right,  towards  the  Armenian 
quarter  of  the  city. 

Illustrations  32  and  33  show  the  walk  by  David's  Gate  and  the 
encroachments  made  on  it  by  a  modern  Turkish  meat  market.  This  the 
Society  had  scheduled  for  removal,  when  the  act  of  God,  in  the  form  of 
the  blizzard,  fortunately  came  to  our  aid  and  broke  the  roof  in. 

Illustrations  4  and  5  show  gangs  of  the  Society's  labourers  at  work 
clearing  debris  from  the  walk.  Some  idea  of  the  mass  of  stuff  to  be 
removed  may  be  seen  by  the  height  to  which  it  was  piled  in  relation  to 
the  figures.  In  Illustration  5  it  comes  up  nearly  to  the  woman's  head. 
In  Illustration  34  a  woman  is  seen  at  work  picking  off  the  great  stones  of 
an  encroachment  that  had  been  built  on  the  walk.  She  is  herself  standing 
on  the  old  city  wall. 

Illustrations  35  and  36  show  another  of  these  encroachments  ;  it  is 
outside  the  Spanish  Jews'  Hospital.  Here,  again,  as  the  photograph 
shows  (No.  35),  a  new  wall  had  been  built  on  the  top  of  the  ramparts. 
The  pen  diagram  below  (No.  36)  shows  how  this  was  handled.  A  is  the 
new  wall,  B  the  immense  mass  of  tip  on  which  the  new  wall  was  built, 
and  which  in  places  was  beginning  to  burst  the  rampart  wall.  C  shows 
the  unburied  sentinels'  walk.  In  this  case  the  encroachment  was  not 
hacked  away,  but  tunnelled,  and  an  arch  made  over  the  steps  which 
the  excavation  revealed.  Illustration  37  shows  what  the  work  looked 
like  when  in  progress.  The  girls  are  in  the  pit  with  their  baskets 
clearing  debris.  The  ink  line  shows  where  the  arch  was  subse- 
quently built  and  the  parapet  made  good.  At  E,  on  the  inner  side 
of  the  wall,  where  the  walk  adjoins  the  public  street,  it  is  proposed 
to  plant  as  shown. 

Illustration  38  is  interesting  as  showing  the  sort  of  destruction  that 
is  in  progress.  The  old  walls  of  the  city  have  been  used  as  quarries,  and 
the  massive  stones,  when  loosened  from  neglect,  are  carried  off.  A  few 
thousand  pounds  to  make  good  these  parapet  repairs  around  the  city 
walls  are  greatly  needed. 

Illustration  39  shows  the  end  of  the  walk  at  the  El  Aqsa  Mosque. 
We  have  not  for  the  moment  got  beyond  this  point,  and  it  is  possible 
that  a  way  over  the  wall  or  on  the  outside  may  be  better  till  the  walk 
begins  again  at  the  point  where  it  first  touches  the  Temple  area  on  the 
south  side. 

22.  At  this  point,  as  it  will  when  completed  become  one  of  the  most 
important  features  in  the  Jerusalem  Park  system,  a  few  words  may  be 
22 


THE    PARK    SYSTEM 

said  about  the  Jaffa  Gate  improvement  scheme  which   the  Society  is 
anxious  to  carry  through.    It  involves — 

(a)  the  removal  of  the  unsightly  clock  tower  and  the  replacement 
of  the  low  parapet  wall  removed  shortly  before  the  Kaiser's 
theatrical  entry  into  Jerusalem  ; 

{b)  the  clearing  of  the  fosse,  with  a  possible  modification  of  the 
levels  at  this  point,  and  the  completing  of  the  garden  circuit 
round  the  Citadel  (see  Frontispiece).  The  suggested  com- 
promise would  be  a  line  drawn  between  the  old  circuit 
obliterated  by  the  Turks  and  the  modern  road  boundary  AA. 

(f)  The  opening  out  of  a  roadway  with  a  great  meidan  in  front 
of  the  Jaffa  Gate,  and  the  removal  of  the  market  to  the 
other  side  of  the  road. 

(d)  The  completion  of  the  Rampart  Walk  circuit. 

Illustrations  40,  41,  42,  43,  44,  45  show  the  projected  improvement. 
No.  40  is  from  a  photograph  taken  in  1898  when  the  breach  was  being 
made.  Illustration  41  shows  what  the  fosse  may  look  like  when  the 
garden  circuit  is  completed  and  the  glacis  again  cleared.  It  is  suggested 
that  as  much  of  the  road  as  is  needed  for  traffic  be  retained,  and  that  to 
do  this  the  parapet  wall  when  rebuilt  be  pierced  by  an  arch.  The  garden 
circuit  would  then  be  completed  by  a  narrow  entrance  arch  at  a  lower  level 
at  the  base  of  the  Hippicus  Tower.  The  more  archseologically  complete 
way  would  be  to  build  up  the  wall  again  exactly  as  it  was.  All  the 
lower  portions  of  the  wall  are  still  under  the  roadway;  but  the  people, 
having  been  accustomed  for  so  many  years  to  the  double  way  into  the 
city,  might  be  unwilling  to  surrender  it. 

23.  It  is  as  yet  impossible  to  give  plans  of  the  projected  Park  system 
in  any  detail,  and  Illustration  25  does  not  profess  to  be  complete.  This, 
it  will  be  seen,  agrees  roughly  with  the  part  enclosed  in  the  larger  blue 
circuit  of  the  McLean  plan  (Illustration  21).  But  if  it  be  compared  with 
the  Geddes  and  the  McLean  plans,  it  will  be  seen  that  it  is  an  attempt  to 
co-ordinate  the  two.  Most  of  the  contour  roads  on  the  Geddes  plan  are 
adopted,  and  the  blue  zoning  or  enceinte  lines  on  the  McLean  plan  are 
shown  dotted.  All  three  plans,  it  will  be  seen,  accept  these  as  dominating 
factors.  Where  the  Park  system  (Illustration  25)  departs  from  Nos.  21 
and  22  is  in  the  matter  of  method.  The  controlling  feature  here  has  been 
the  tombs,  burial-places,  and  existing  memorials  which  have  been  incor- 
porated into  the  park.  Thus  all  the  Jewish  burial-places  are  shown  in 
circles,  the  Christian  in  crosses,  and  the  Muslim  in  crescents. 

23 


THE    PARK    SYSTEM 

The  laying  out  or  reservation  into  park  land  does  not  necessarily 
mean  special  or  ornamental  plantation.  The  bulk  of  the  land  will,  it  is 
hoped,  always  remain  under  fellahin  tillage  or  even  in  its  present 
wildness.  It  does,  however,  mean  a  certain  amount  of  terracing,  and 
the  removal  of  "sebekh"  or  tip  from  the  valleys  to  the  rock  plateaux. 
Nor  does  the  plan  (Illustration  25)  show  all  the  parts  it  is  hoped  to  plant 
in  the  city  building  areas.     Most  of  the  streets  will  be  fringed  with  trees. 

Some  of  the  portions  of  the  Park  system,  besides  those  already 
mentioned,  to  which  the  Society  has  turned  its  attention  may  be 
given  : — 

(a)  Avenues  along  the  Jaffa  road,  and  the  making  good  of  trees 
destroyed  in  the  war  (h  on  Illustration  25). 

{b)  The  Post  Office  Square  (see  Illustration  25  t  and  Illustra- 
tions 46-48). 

(c)  Plantation  around  the  roads  that  border  the  twenty-three 
acres  near  the  station,  known  as  the  McRae  estate 
(Illustration  25  j). 

{d)  Plantation  round  the  Muslim  Cemetery  by  Herod's  Gate 
(Illustration  25  k). 

(e)  The  garden  and  district  immediately  round  the  Rashidia 
School  (Illustration  25  /). 

(/)  The  Park  projected  with  the  assistance  of  Dr.  Ettinger  and 
Mr.  Yellin  to  the  north  of  the  city  (see  Illustration  2^  dab 
and  Illustration  74).  The  Park  system  will  incorporate  and 
so  preserve  from  needless  desecration  the  ancient  Jewish  or 
Grseco-Roman  rock-tombs  of  which  it  is  proposed  to  make 
a  feature  in  the  Park  (see  Illustrations  72,  73,  75). 

(g)  Various  small  gardens  in  the  old  city,  some  of  them  in 
private  ownership.  In  the  latter  case  the  trees  are  given 
on  the  understanding  that  they  are  planted  according  to 
the  wishes  of  the  Society  and  protected  by  the  owners. 


24 


*.i*  '^  >  1^^*' 


d 


Co 


Citadel  Gardens. 


No.  JO. 


Citadel  Gardens, 


No.  SI. 


The  Rampart  JValk,  showing  how  a  rooj 
has  been  built  over  the  walk  which 
follows  the  arrows. 


Ao. 


V 


A'o.  .,^, 


7"/?^  Rampart  Walk. 


No.  34. 

The  Rampart  JFalk,  showi^ig 
a  woman  clearing  azvay  an 
encroachment. 


A'o.  35- 


The  Rampart  Walk  covered  with  12 ft.  of  "tip,'' 
and  shozving  a  new  wall  built  on  top  of  the  "tip. 


iT^^ 


No.  36. 

The  Rampart  Walk,  showing  how  the  encroachment 
(No.  3S)  has  been  tunnelled. 


I     i    D, 


The  Rampart  Walk,  the  same  as  No.  56,  showing 
fellahin  girls  at  work. 

A.  New  wall  built  on  the  tip. 

B.  Tip. 

C.  Rampart  Walk  newly  cleared. 

D.  Old  city  wall. 

E.  Nezv  garden  being,  tnadr. 


>  VV« 


m 


No.  38. 


The  Rampart  Walk,  showing  tlie  gradual  destruction 
of  the  wall  of  Sulrinian  the  Magnificent. 


.\0.    3Q. 


The  Rampart  Il'alk  at  the 
El  Aqsa  Mosque. 


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C  HASH  BEE. 

No.  46. 


The  Markets 

24.  The  question  of  the  Jerusalem  markets  is  one  sui  generis.  It 
involves  considerations  of  religious  custom  and  law,  of  hygiene,  and  of 
archaeology.    In  some  cases  these  are  curiously  interwoven. 

The  Society  working  in  collaboration  with  the  Municipality  and  the 
Department  of  Public  Health  prepared  a  report  on  the  market  needs 
of  the  city,  in  which  certain  principles  were  drawn  up  which  it  was 
decided  to  apply  to  six  markets  to  begin  with.  It  is  unnecessary  here  to 
go  into  the  details,  and  the  plan,  if  consistently  carried  out,  will  involve 
the  expenditure  of  a  large  sum  of  money  and  the  enforcement  of  sanitary 
and  municipal  orders  of  great  consequence  to  the  city. 

Of  these  six  markets  illustrations  are  given  of  two,  one  in  the  old 
city.  No.  52  and  54,  and  one  in  the  new.  No.  49  and  50.  We  will  deal 
with  the  latter  first,  because  it  illustrates  the  horrible  conditions  of  dis- 
order, slovenliness,  and  squalor  with  which  the  Administration  has  to  deal. 
It  is  the  market  in  the  Jaffa  road  to  the  north-east  of  the  city,  sometimes 
known  as  Haim  Valero,  or  Mahanna  Yudah.  The  row  of  corrugated 
iron  shacks  and  petrol  tins,  of  which  it  is  mostly  constructed,  is  one  of 
the  first  landmarks  as  we  enter  the  Holy  City  from  the  Jaffa  side.  It 
expresses  for  the  visitor  the  New  Jerusalem  as  left  us  by  the  Turk. 
The  drawing  which  accompanies  the  photograph  shows  what  we  hope  to 
make  of  the  market,  screened  from  the  road  by  trees.  Here,  as  in  other 
cases,  the  desire  of  the  sanitary  authority  is  to  control  the  market  in  the 
interest  of  public  health.  To  achieve  this  control  it  must  have  definite 
boundaries,  and  be  so  constructed  as  to  make  the  enforcement  of  certain 
regulations  possible. 

25.  The  David  Street  Market,  shown  in  Illustrations  52,  53,  54,  is 
the  picturesque  Vegetable  Market  in  the  ancient  city,  so  much  admired 
by  all  lovers  of  local  colour,  because  of  the  richness  of  costume  of  the 
peasant  women  who  gather  together  here  from  the  neighbouring  villages, 
bringing  fruit  in  their  colour-plaited  straw  baskets.  It  is  held  under  the 
arches  of  the  mediaeval  buildings  that  once  formed  part  of  or  adjoined 
the  foundation  of  the  Knights  Hospitallers  in  the  Mauristan  (see  Sections 
65,  66,  67).  An  application  was  made  to  me  on  one  occasion  for  closing 
the  arcades  with  a  view  to  converting  them  into  storerooms.  To  grant 
this  ruksah  would  have  meant  not  only  interfering  with  the  structure  of 
the  buildings,  but  with  the  market  rights  of  the  community.    The  whole 

26 


Post  Office  Square,  before  treatmejit. 


No.  47. 


M 


^r-Mt. 


\^^ 


.■  ^ 


i  1 


■•':/..  r;*-^%>ilS         '&^^%^  V 


^;i..4^. 


z;:^''  '^.^..: 


/^o.vz  O^ft"  Square,  when  completed. 


No.  48. 


ITTTpTTTTT^ 


Uo^U*'  Oi»X^^s^f!ja>  is 


The  Jaffa  Road  Market 

{Haim  Valero  or  Mahanna  Yudah) 

as  proposed. 


a.  Shops. 

b.  Central  Sibil  or  Fountain. 

c.  Entrances. 


C  RASHBEE 


No.  51. 


d.  Stalls  under  cover. 

e.  Jaffa  Road. 


27 


THE    MARKETS 

matter  was  gone  into,  with  the  result  that  a  larger  scheme  for  the  develop- 
ment of  the  market  is  now  under  consideration.  This  is  best  studied  in 
Illustration  54.  a  is  David  Street ;  c  shows  the  Vegetable  Market,  to  the 
left  as  it  is  at  present,  to  the  right  as  we  hope  to  make  it.  At  present 
it  has  only  two  arches  to  the  street,  and  at  the  back  all  the  arches  are 
blocked  up  with  debris.  Five  arches  will  be  opened  out  at  the  back,  and 
the  mass  of  debris  {d)  will  be  cleared  away,  while  two  arches  will  be 
opened  out  into  David  Street  {a).  Thus  abundance  of  light  and  shade 
will  be  given  to  the  market,  which  is  at  present  dark  and  ill-ventilated. 
Under  the  newly  opened  arches  between  d  and  d  will  be  seen  the  little 
garden  at  g,  the  planting  of  which  has  already  been  commenced.  The 
remaining  bases  of  the  old  arcades,  which  are  no  longer  standing,  but  for 
the  most  part  covered  in  debris,  were  located  by  the  Palestine  Survey, 
as  shown  in  g  and  h.  Some  of  the  arches  in  h  are  still  visible,  though  a 
portion  of  one  of  the  northern  arches  collapsed  in  the  blizzard  of  1920 
(see  Illustration  55). 


a8 


^: 


^ 


^ 
•^ 


/y<^ 


'I 

\> 

o 


UwOA'^  u.tf.-i4 


o 


•^  IP 


The  David  Street  Market. 

On  the  left  as  it  is  :  on  the  right  as  it  is 


to  be. 


a.  David  Street. 

b.  Suq  el  Lehan. 

c.  Vegetable  Market. 

d.  Strip  of  land  at   back  of  market  covered 

with  debris. 

e.  Shops. 
{.  Khan. 


g.  Excavated  portion  now  again  covered  with 
debris  upon  which  a  garden  is  being 
made. 

h.  Modern  German  building  in  which  the  ex- 
cavated work  has  been  incorporated. 

\.     Restored  Church  of  St.  John. 

}.     New  German  street. 


29 


New  Industries 

26.  The  Pro-Jerusalem  Society  has  established  two  new  industries  in 
the  city,  and  is  trying  to  start  a  third — weaving,  tile-making,  and,  if  the 
present  negotiations  come  to  fulfilment,  glass-work.  These  industries 
are  in  the  nature  of  revivals  rather  than  of  new  undertakings.  They 
have  each  to  do  with  local  life,  and  are  implicit  in  the  ancient  traditions 
of  the  city,  its  structure,  and  its  crafts.  To  these  three  industries 
encouraged  by  the  Society  must,  of  course,  be  added  building  and 
planting  ;  for  though  the  two  latter  ceased  entirely  during  the  war, 
except  for  military  purposes,  the  traditions  of  local  craftsmanship  had 
not  to  be  laboriously  reconstructed  as  in  the  case  of  weaving,  tile- 
making,  and  glass-work. 

27.  I  deal  with  the  weaving  industry  first.  During  the  war  the 
American  Red  Cross  instituted  some  admirable  relief  works  among  the 
refugees,  mainly  Armenian,  of  whom  there  were  many  hundreds  in 
Jerusalem.  Instead  of  giving  doles  it  set  up  looms;  it  started  the  refugees 
at  doing  useful  work  with  which  they  were  familiar — weaving,  spinning, 
etc.  It  seemed  a  pity  to  break  the  organization  up  when  the  Red  Cross 
was  demobilized,  so  the  Society  worked  out  a  scheme  for  taking  this 
over  and  running  it  as  a  permanent  industry  for  the  city.  But  a  place 
had  to  be  found.  It  was  decided,  therefore,  to  take  over  and  restore 
the  ancient  Suq  el  Qattanin  (the  old  Cotton  Market),  to  which  reference 
has  already  been  made  in  Section  9. 

When  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Society  started  upon  this  noble  monument 
it  was,  like  many  another  in  the  city,  a  public  latrine,  the  shops  were 
filled  with  ordure,  and  the  debris  in  some  cases  was  lying  five  foot  high. 
The  picturesque  doors  shown  in  Illustration  18,  the  photograph  for 
which  was  taken  in  1913,  had  been  broken  up  and  used  for  firewood  by 
the  Turks.  The  Society  remade  them,  and  is  at  present  engaged  in 
repairing  the  great  chamber,  shown  in  Illustration  57,  in  which  is  a 
fourteenth-century  inscription  (see  also  Section  70).  In  and  adjoining 
this  portion  of  the  building,  as  will  be  seen  in  No.  57,  was  a  flour-mill, 
whose  20  h.p.  engine  was  gradually  shaking  the  ancient  masonry  out  of 
place.    This  the  Society  had  removed. 

When  the  building  was  put  in  order  looms  were  set  up,  and  the  weavers 
and  spinners  still  at  work  for  the  American  Red  Cross  were  engaged 
and  put  under  the  charge  of  the  present  manager  of  the  industry,  which 
is  now  known  as  the  "Jerusalem  Looms."    In  this  industry,  at  the  close 

30 


NEW    INDUSTRIES 

of  the  first  year's  working,  about  seventy  people  were  employed  directly 
or  indirectly.  The  industry  is  self-supporting,  and  not  financed  by  the 
Society ;  £200  was,  however,  advanced  at  five  per  cent,  by  the  Society, 
and  the  looms  are  its  property.  Further,  the  Society  has  given  assis- 
tance, with  the  financial  aid  of  the  Administration,  in  the  teaching  of 
their  craft  to  the  boys,  who  are  almost  entirely  Muslim.  It  has  started 
a  system  of  indentured  apprenticeship  (see  Appendix  IV),  helps  the  lads 
with  apprentice  scholarships,  and  pays  the  wages  of  their  technical 
instructor  (see  Illustration  62). 

28.  The  revived  industry  of  tile-making  stands  on  a  different  footing 
from  that  of  weaving.  It  is  interesting  to  note  that  whereas  in  the 
industry  of  weaving  it  was  originally  Armenian  relief  money  that  has 
resulted  in  employing  Muslim  workers  to  the  general  public  benefit,  so 
to  the  same  end  it  is  in  the  industry  of  tile-making  and  painting  that 
Muslim  Wakf  funds  have  been  the  cause  of  employing  Armenian 
workers.  We  hope  that  Muslim  workers  will  follow,  but  we  must  take 
conditions  as  we  find  them,  and  use  skill,  knowledge,  and  sympathy 
wherever  we  meet  with  them.  Weaving  is  more  frequently  a  Muslim, 
tile-making  almost  entirely  an  Armenian,  craft.  There  is  no  reason  why 
either  should  be  limited  by  race,  religion,  or  tradition.  The  Armenian 
weavers  have  now  for  the  most  part  returned  to  Armenia,  but  owing  to 
the  great  works  on  the  Dome  of  the  Rock,  further  tile-painters  have 
asked  leave  to  come  from  Armenia  to  Jerusalem. 

Reference  to  Mr.  Ernest  Richmond's  report  already  quoted  (Sec- 
tion 10)  will  show  that  the  damage  in  the  mere  falling  off  of  tiles,  and  the 
disintegration  of  the  wall  surface  from  soakage  of  water  through  the 
building,  could  be  estimated  at  hundreds  of  pounds  a  year,  and  that  in 
increasing  ratio.  But  there  was  no  money.  The  Wakf  funds  in  19 18 
were  not  available.  What  was  to  be  done  ?  The  Pro-Jerusalem  Society 
here  again  stepped  into  the  breach,  and  did  what  the  Administration  for 
the  moment  was  unable  to  do.  It  advanced  out  of  funds  which  the 
personal  energy  and  enthusiasm  of  the  Military  Governor  had  collected 
the  necessary  money  for  the  preliminary  needs  of  Mr.  Richmond's  report. 
Money  for  scaffolding,  labour  payments,  photographic  and  other  records 
were  placed  at  Mr.  Richmond's  disposal,  thus  enabling  him  to  create  a 
system  of  repair  that  might  become  permanent. 

In  the  course  of  Mr.  Richmond's  investigations  the  original  furnaces 
were  rediscovered  in  the  area  of  the  Haram-es-Sherif,  so  it  was  decided 
to  reopen  them  and  make  trial  firings.      The  first  firings  were  a  dismal 

31 


NEW    INDUSTRIES 

failure,  and  the  two  expert  potters,  one  from  Kutahia  and  one  from 
Damascus,  differed  as  to  the  reasons  for  this.  The  Society  had  by  this 
time  advanced  some  £230,  so  the  drastic  course  was  taken  of  discharging 
them  both.  One  of  the  potters,  Mr.  David  Ohanessian,  then  came 
forward  with  the  offer  of  partly  capitalizing  the  industry,  provided  he 
were  allowed  the  use  of  the  old  furnaces  and  given  facilities  to  go  to  his 
home  in  Kutahia  and  bring  back  at  his  own  charges  his  workpeople, 
plant,  and  materials.  This  has  been  done ;  the  Administration  found 
means  for  getting  him  through  to  Constantinople,  and,  later,  of  con- 
veying a  body  of  his  workpeople — men,  women,  and  children — from 
Kutahia  to  Jerusalem,  and  after  some  four  months  of  fresh  experiment 
and  hard  work,  tiles  were  produced  which  compared  very  favourably 
with  some  of  the  early  tile-work  on  the  Dome,  and  certainly  exceeded  in 
beauty  and  skill  the  later  European  factory  production  with  which  for 
the  last  fifty  years  the  Dome  has  been  repaired. 

It  was  recommended,  therefore,  that  a  contract  should  be  entered 
into  between  the  Wakf  Administration  and  Mr.  Ohanessian  for  the 
permanent  establishment  of  the  industry.  An  agreement  was  drawn  up 
by  the  Wakf  with  Mr.  Ohanessian,  wherein,  subject  to  certain  conditions, 
the  Pro-Jerusalem  Society  guaranteed  the  latter's  financial  stability, 
and  the  Wakf  found  £700  to  enable  him  to  continue  and  develop  his 
work.  At  the  same  time  the  Wakf  repaid  to  the  Society  the  original 
£230  it  had  advanced,  thus  enabling  the  money  to  be  used  again  in  other 
new  and  creative  work. 

It  is  the  hope  of  the  Council  that  even  as  we  have  established  out 
of  the  weaving  industry  a  little  textile  school  for  the  city  of  Jerusalem, 
so  out  of  the  tile-work  we  shall  in  like  manner  establish  a  school  of 
ceramics.  All  the  necessary  elements  are  now  there.  The  Syrian  potter, 
with  his  fine  skill  and  his  immemorial  tradition  (see  Illustration  58),  is 
one  of  the  central  facts  of  Eastern  life.  He  needs  encouragement,  and 
will  repay  it. 

29.  We  will  pass  to  the  industry  of  glass-blowing.  There  are,  in  the 
Jerusalem  district,  especially  at  Hebron,  the  remains  of  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  and  characteristic  of  Muslim  crafts.  Illustrations  59,  60,  61, 
show  these  glass-blowers  and  their  work.  According  to  tradition  this 
craft  of  lamp-making  for  mosques,  etc.,  was  practised  in  ancient  times, 
not  only  by  Muslims,  but  also  by  Jewish  workmen  under  protection  of 
the  Khalifs.  Certain  it  is  that  there  are  many  technical  records  and 
remains.     The  old  man  shown  in  Illustration  60  is  himself  a  Hebron 

32 


A'o.  55- 


Fallen  arcade  in  the  Maiinstan. 


So.  ji3. 


SCiq  el  Qatlanin,  from  the 
street,   JVest  Entrance. 


Sitq  el   Oattanin — in    the    great 
chamber  of  Muhammad 
an-Ndsir,  J.D.  IS36. 


Syrian    poUer. 


No.  5tV. 


Ili'hriin  ;^/ays-i)iakers  at  zi'ork. 


No.  59. 


A'o.  60. 


Hebrov  glass-:vorker  in  his  shop 
in  Jrrusalrm. 


No.  61. 


4  Hebron  bine  glass. 


so 


j-1 

o 


NEW    INDUSTRIES 

glass-blower,  but  prefers  to  spend  the  evening  of  his  days  in   reading 
the  Koran  at  his  shop  door,   in  the  Mauristan,  and  selling  occasional 
glass  beads  and  bangles.     On  the  other  hand,  the  Hebron  workshops 
exist.     Their  record  during  and  for  a  few  years  before  the  war  is  rather 
pathetic ;  it  is  typical  of  the  influence  of  Western    industrialism  upon 
Eastern  craftsmanship.    Modern  industrial  conditions  reduced  thirty-two 
shops  to  seven,  and  the  war  closed  these  remaining  seven.     One  was 
reopened    in    1919,  and  again  closed  owing  to  the  difficulty  of  getting 
wood  for  firing.     On  looking  into  matters  I  found  masses  of  debris  from 
cheap  machine-made  lamps  littering  the  Hebron  shops,  and  on  inquiry 
learned  that  the  glass-blowers  had  given  up  using  their  own  good  quartzy 
Hebron  sand  because  it  was  cheaper  to  use  the  v/aste  product  of  English 
factories.     It  had  come  over  as  ballast  of  ships.     As  a  consequence  the 
glass  now  made  is  soft  and  brittle,  and  often  pitted  with  holes.     The 
effort  of  the  Society  here,  as  with  the  textiles  and  the  ceramics,  will  be 
to  raise  the  standard,  to  lift  the  old  craft  out  of  the  industrial  mire,  to 
make  things  of  real  service,  not  merely  knick-knacks  for  tourists,  or  the 
last  degraded  relics  in  coloured  bangles  and  beads  for  poverty-stricken 
peasants.     Arrangements   for  a   contract  with   some  of  the  old   glass- 
blowers  are  now  in  progress.     We  are  planning  to  set  certain  of  the 
shops  in  the  Suq  el  Qattanin  (see  Illustration  17)  at  their  disposal.    At 
the  same  time  it  is  proposed  to  open  one  at  least  of  the  old  Hebron  work- 
shops.    The  method  will  probably  be  some  sort  of  guarantee  by  the 
Society  for  the  sale  of,  say,  a  year's  produce  from  the  shops,  certain 
conditions  as  to  standard  and  the  forms  to  be  adopted  being  laid  down 
at  the  outset.     But  there  are  difficulties.     These  old  Hebron  craftsmen 
are  dour  and  farouche.     It  is  part  of  their  charm.     They  are  as  tough  in 
their  old-fashioned  Islamism  as  in  their  retention  to  themselves  alone  of 
the  secrets  of  their  craft.     In  some  cases  they  will  not  even  teach  it  to 
their  own  sons  for  fear  it  might  be  too  widely  known  ! 

30.  It  is  unnecessary  here  to  allude  to  the  industries  of  building, 
masonry,  the  planting  of  trees  and  laying  out  of  gardens,  all  of  which 
are  helped  by  the  Society,  as  special  reference  is  made  to  these  crafts  in 
Sections  6,  8,  9,  15,  20,  21,  23. 

Other  industries  that  the  Society  hopes  either  to  revive  or  to  estab- 
lish on  a  basis  of  good  standard  are  carpet-weaving,  metal-work,  cabinet- 
making.  No  work  worth  mentioning  is  done  in  any  of  these,  unless  we 
except  the  quasi-sectarian  efforts  of  Bezaleel  and  the  Syrian  orphanage. 
Yet  good   serviceable  furniture,   ordinary  table-service    in    metal-work, 

E  33 


NEW    INDUSTRIES 

rugs  and  carpets,  and  the  various  appliances  for  the  house,  are  just  as 
necessary  as  textiles,  glass,  and  pottery.  There  is  no  reason  why  they 
should  not  also  be  made  in  Palestine  and  have  on  them  the  character  of 
the  locality.  In  the  list  of  desiderata  the  Society  has  drawn  up,  and 
which  I  give  in  Appendix  III,  will  be  found  references  to  these  new 
industries.  We  want  help  for  them.  The  decay  of  good  craftsmanship 
and  what  it  means  to  the  city  is  aptly  illustrated  in  No.  65  and  No.  66. 
The  former  is  a  good  bit  of  Jerusalem  eighteenth-century  carpenter's 
work,  the  latter  its  modern  substitute. 

This  re-establishment  of  the  crafts,  even  if  looked  at  merely  from  the 
political  point  of  view,  is  of  vital  importance  in  Palestine.  As  a  great 
Syrian  once  put  it,  with  the  craftsmen  of  Jerusalem  in  mind,  "Without 
them  shall  no  city  be  inhabited,  and  men  shall  not  sojourn  nor  walk  up 
and  down  therein.  They  shall  not  be  sought  for  in  the  council  of  the 
people,  and  in  the  assembly  they  shall  not  mount  on  high  .  .  .  neither 
shall  they  declare  instruction  and  judgment,  and  where  parables  are 
shall  they  not  be  found.  But  they  shall  maintain  the  fabric  of  the  world  ; 
and  in  the  handiwork  of  their  craft  is  their  prayer." 

Work  with  the  hands,  the  creative  work,  the  work  of  the  imagina- 
tion applied  to  a  man's  personal  labour,  keeps  men  from  empty  political 
speculation.  For  every  craftsman  we  create,  we  create  also  a  potential 
citizen;  for  every  craftsman  we  waste,  we  fashion  a  discontented  effendi. 


34 


Technical  Education 

31.  The  industry  or  craft  brings  us  to  Technical  Education  in  the 
craft.  The  Administration  as  regards  the  city  has  turned  the  technical 
education  grant  over  to  the  Society ;  £200  was  granted  for  the  year 
1918-19,  and  £300  for  the  year  1919-20.  The  Society  has  supplemented 
these  grants,  and  laid  down  the  policy  that  shall  guide  their  adminis- 
tration. The  smallness  of  the  grants  has  limited  our  activities,  but  this 
policy  may  be  here  defined  :  It  is  (a)  to  help  for  the  present,  and  until 
more  money  is  available,  only  such  technical  teaching  as  is  implicit  with 
the  agricultural  development  of  the  Jerusalem  area,  e.g.,  planting  and 
gardening,  and  the  crafts  that  go  with  a  life  on  the  land  ;  (b)  to  teach 
from  the  point  of  view  of  the  industry  or  craft,  rather  than  that  of  the 
classroom;  in  other  words,  to  bring  the  school  into  the  workshop,  and  not, 
as  is  usually  done,  the  workshop  into  the  school. 

The  Society's  work  of  technical  education  has,  therefore,  been  to 
appoint  a  skilled  gardening  instructor  and  place  in  his  charge  the  planting 
of  the  trees  and  gardens  of  the  city,  more  especially  those  from  which 
the  boys  of  a  certain  number  of  schools  may  most  benefit.  Further,  it 
has  appointed  a  skilled  weaving  instructor  in  whose  charge  are  the  looms 
in  the  Suq  el  Qattanin  already  referred  to  (Section  9),  weaving  being  an 
integral  part  of  the  agricultural  life  of  Palestine. 

32.  In  regard  to  the  tree-planting  and  gardening,  the  idea  is  to  make 
the  boys  responsible,  and  teach  them  to  take  a  pride  in  the  city's  upkeep. 
Each  lad  is  given  the  care  of  a  tree  that  he  has  helped  to  plant.  A  garden 
and  a  small  nursery  have  been  put  at  the  disposal  of  the  instructor  at 
the  Rashidia  School  by  Herod's  Gate,  and  some  200  Muslini  boys  are 
benefiting  by  this  arrangement. 

33.  In  regard  to  the  weaving  craft,  a  method  has  been  adopted 
even  more  conducive  to  standard  and  quality.  To  begin  with,  a  dozen — 
at  the  time  of  writing,  eighteen — boys  have  been  bound  as  indentured 
apprentices  to  the  Society's  weaving  industry.  The  indenture  itself  is 
given  in  Appendix  IV,  and  should  be  studied  as  a  useful  working  model 
for  new  enterprise  in  technical  education.  It  is  of  interest  to  note  that 
it  follows  the  Samuel  Montagu  (Lord  Swaythling's)  East  London  Ap- 
prenticeship Fund,  under  which  many  excellent  craftsmen  of  the  Guild 
of  Handicraft  were  bound  in  the  late  'nineties.  The  Pro-Jerusalem 
Society  and  the  Military  Governor  as  its  president  take  the  place  of 

35 


TECHNICAL    EDUCATION 

Lord  Swaythling  as  third  signatorJ^  Of  the  two  Illustrations,  No.  62  and 
No.  63,  the  former  shows  the  apprentices  in  their  uniforms,  the  latter  the 
ceremony  of  apprenticeship  in  the  central  arcade  of  the  Suq  el  Qattanin. 
The  Military  Governor  is  making  a  speech  in  Arabic  and  English,  the 
Grand  Mufti  is  to  his  right,  and  the  boys  are  about  to  be  called  up  and 
given  each,  for  his  parent  or  guardian,  who  is  also  present,  a  copy  of  the 
indenture.  The  text  of  the  speech  is  in  the  main  the  first  clause  of  the 
indenture ;  as  our  forefathers  in  Western  indentures  would  have  had  it  : 
"  Thou  shalt  not  put  the  craft  to  shame." 


36 


No.  64. 
Dome  construction   in  Jerusalem. 


No.  65. 

A  Jerusalem  carpenter's  window. 


No.  66. 


Its  modern  substitute. 


Relief  labour  at  work  in  the  Citadel  clearings. 


Prisoners  shiftitig  large  stones  in  the  Citadel. 


No.  68. 


< 


o 


o 


<5 


Civic  Regulations 

34.  The  Pro-Jerusalem  Council  has  done  valuable  work  in  the 
direction  of  civic  regulations.  In  this  it  has  had  the  aid  of  the  Munici- 
pality and  the  Jerusalem  Chamber  of  Commerce.  Thus  it  has  effectively 
checked  the  unrestrained  use  of  corrugated  iron.  This  is  now  forbidden 
in  the  old  city,  and  can  only  be  used  in  the  new  city  if  screened  from 
view.  The  same  applies,  though  less  rigidly,  in  regard  to  red  tiles.  The 
use  of  these  in  the  old  city,  except  in  the  case  of  repairs,  is  no  longer 
permitted,  while  the  old  method  of  dome  construction  has  been  en- 
couraged, and  in  many  places  revived  (see  Illustration  64).  Illustra- 
tions 13,  32,  49,  show  cases  in  which  the  Society  has  either  prevented  the 
use  of  corrugated  iron  and  red  tiles,  or  is  in  process  of  removing  them. 

35.  The  limitation  of  advertisement  is  an  urgent  need.  The  pro- 
miscuous placarding  and  profanation  of  every  conspicuous  wall-surface 
must  at  all  hazards  be  stopped.  The  Society,  therefore,  drew  up  for  and 
in  conjunction  with  the  municipal  authorities  the  series  of  regulations 
which  are  given  in  Appendix  VII,  an  appropriation  was  made  for  them 
in  the  municipal  budget  of  1920,  and  they  have  since  been  incorporated 
in  the  legislation  of  the  country. 

36.  To  the  Society's  work  in  the  regeneration  of  the  markets  refer- 
ence has  already  been  made  in  Sections  24  and  25.  Not  In  the  markets 
only,  but  in  many  other  instances  it  has  acted,  usually  through  the 
office  of  the  Civic  Advisor,  as  the  link  between  the  Municipalitj^,  or  the 
Service  of  Antiquities  in  embryo,  and  the  Department  of  Public  Health. 
One  of  the  tragedies  of  the  city  is  that  where  an  ancient  building  has 
been  neglected,  or  a  site,  especially  after  excavation,  becomes  derelict,  it 
becomes  unsanitary.  The  Societ)^  has  been  the  means  for  bringing  before 
the  Department  of  Public  Health  a  number  of  beautiful  or  historically 
Interesting  sites,  public  monuments,  and  houses  which,  with  a  little  timely 
supervision  from  the  sanitary  point  of  view,  it  has  been  possible  to  save 
or  protect. 

37.  This  raises  an  important  civic  issue,  and  one  that  the  Society 
has  on  several  occasions  had  before  it,  and  Is  gradually  solving  by  prac- 
tical experiment.  What  Is  to  be  done  with  a  site  after  the  archaeologist 
has  dug  it  over  and  left  it  .''  The  archaeologist  is  not  interested  in  the 
city  as  a  live  thing.  For  him  the  more  dead  and  buried  the  better. 
He  digs,  makes  his  records,  and  goes  away,  leaving  usually  an  untidy 

37 


CIVIC    REGULATIONS 

mess  for  others  to  clear  up.  There  are  a  number  of  such  sites  in  Jeru- 
salem. There  are  likely,  with  the  increasing  desire  for  historical  dis- 
covery, to  be  many  more.  Nature's  solution  is  simple.  The  derelict 
site  is  first  well  dunged  by  children  and  animals;  it  then  breeds  flies  and 
mosquitoes,  after  which,  if  it  has  the  sun  upon  it,  follow  crops  of  Ficus 
indica  and  thistles.  Some  more  rational  and  civilized  method  of  recla- 
mation seems  desirable;  for,  after  all,  the  city  is  alive,  not  dead. 

38.  In  Mr.  Storrs'  preface  it  has  already  been  pointed  out  how  the 
Pro-Jerusalem  Society  in  its  initiation  was  "  the  Military  Governor 
civically  and  aesthetically  in  Council";  the  original  name  under  which 
the  records  of  the  Society  were  filed  in  the  Governorate  archives  was 
"The  City  Council."  This  quality  of  an  Upper  Chamber  to  the  Muni- 
cipality, a  kind  of  Senate  whose  duty  it  has  been  to  safeguard  the  finer 
life  of  the  Holy  City,  it  has  tried  consistently  to  maintain.  Many 
types  of  city  regulations  have  had,  and  are  likely  to  continue  to  have, 
their  origin  in  the  monthly  discussions  of  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Council. 
It  is  a  place  where  ideas  are  made.  The  Council  does  not  necessarily 
put  them  into  force.  It  serves  the  often  more  useful  purpose  of 
inspiring  them. 


38 


Social  Work 

39.  It  is  inevitable  that  the  Society  in  its  many  undertakings  should 
have  touched  the  social  life  of  the  city,  its  labour  problems,  and  what 
in  Jerusalem  is  so  intimately  bound  up  with  this,  its  religious  and 
sectarian  structure.    A  word  as  to  these  may  not  be  out  of  place  here. 

The  Society  has  had  for  its  public  works  the  use  of  three  types  of 
labour — relief  or  refugee  labour,  paid  on  a  minimum-wage  basis ;  prison 
labour,  working  under  guard;  and  skilled  or  partially  skilled  labour, 
working  on  contract  or  at  market  rates. 

Illustrations  67,  4,  5,  show  the  first,  the  relief  or  refugee  labour. 
Most  of  the  Citadel  clearings  and  the  work  on  the  Rampart  Walk  were 
done  by  refugees.  It  will  be  seen  that  they  are  almost  entirely  women, 
for  in  the  East  it  is  the  women  rather  than  the  men  who  do  work  of  this 
kind.  The  women  are  mostly  of  great  strength,  they  are  accustomed  to 
carrying  weights  upon  their  heads,  and  they  are  very  skilful  with  the 
"fass  "  or  pick.  Where,  as  has  often  been  the  case,  they  are  mothers 
with  small  children,  a  sort  of  impromptu  creche  has  been  formed  in 
some  adjoining  field  or  yard  under  one  of  their  number.  This  relief 
labour  has  been  found  to  be  very  variable,  and,  of  course,  it  is  liable 
to  stop  suddenly  when  the  desired  moment  comes  for  return  to  the 
"beled,"  or  when  the  husband,  who  has  often  been  impressed  by  the 
Turk,  returns  from  war  or  from  captivity. 

40.  Prison  labour,  of  which  an  illustration  is  given  in  No,  68,  is  still 
less  satisfactory.  This  has  always  to  be  conducted  under  guard,  and  in 
addition  a  sympathetic  foreman  is  needed.  Prisoners  have  been  used 
for  cleaning  out  unsavoury  sites,  carrying  and  breaking  stone,  and  water- 
ing trees.  It  is  very  extravagant,  for  it  takes  up  so  much  of  the  highly 
paid  foreman's  time,  and  the  guard  requires  almost  as  much  watching 
as  the  prisoners,  for  it  increases  his  difficulties  if  he  is  a  task-master. 
For  him  it  is  better  and  easier  if  the  prisoners  sleep.  At  present  no  pay- 
ment to  convicts  is  allowed,  and  the  theory  is  that  their  work  shall  be 
made  as  unpleasant  as  possible.  But  this  raises  an  interesting  point  in 
prison  psychology,  and  one  that  deserves  greater  attention  than  it 
receives.  I  have  observed  in  watching  these  gangs  under  one  or  other  of 
my  foremen  that  the  men  often  really  enjoy  the  work.  It  is  a  change 
from  the  boredom  of  prison.  If  some  system  could  be  devised  by  which 
some  payment  could  be  made  to  each  gang,  not  as  wages  for  labour,  but 
as  a  recognition  for  services  rendered  if  the  work  is  good,  I  believe  that 

39 


SOCIAL    WORK 

four  times  the  amount  of  labour  would  be  given;  for,  with  some  excep- 
tions, the  convict  really  wants  to  work:  it  is  the  enforcement  he  resents. 
I  think  such  a  recognition  of  service  would  be  good,  not  only  for  the 
city,  but  for  the  man  himself. 

41.  The  Society's  skilled  labour,  paid  from  its  own  funds,  has  been 
that  of  masons,  blacksmiths,  gardeners,  fellahin  women  labourers,  and 
its  regular  foremen.  This  has  conformed  to  market  rates,  and  has  been 
divided  fairly  evenly  over  the  three  religious  groups,  Muslim,  Christian, 
and  Jew.  It  is  hoped  that  as  the  works  of  the  Society  and,  ultimately, 
the  city  develop,  some  form  of  guild  organization  may  be  adopted.  By 
this  is  meant  responsibility  for  standard  among  the  workers,  and  non- 
competitive organization  in  the  interests  of  the  craft.  The  sectarian 
divisions  of  the  city  would  help  rather  than  hinder  this.  Of  the  Municipal 
Labour  Bureau  use  has  often  been  made.  This  should,  wherever  possible, 
be  developed,  and  the  various  religious  relief  funds  utilized  wherever  this 
can  be  done  in  getting  people  to  work.  Any  form  of  civic  reconstruction 
is  worth  trying,  and  even  the  humblest  skill  should  be  made  use  of; 
for  the  curses  of  Jerusalem  are  idleness  and  parasitism.  The  city  has 
been  accustomed  to  live  on  the  unreasoning  charity  of  the  world.  Chris- 
tian, Muslim,  and  Jew,  all  alike  have  taken  the  doles  of  the  faithful;  and 
instead  of  these  doles  being  devoted  to  the  upkeep  and  ennoblement  of 
the  Holy  City,  they  resulted  in  a  rather  sordid  life  among  the  citizens. 
Modern  Jerusalem  is  a  mixture  of  squalor  and  pretentiousness.  This 
fund  of  charity  is  likely  to  continue.  There  is  no  reason,  however,  why 
it  should  any  longer  be  used  to  corrupt,  to  vulgarize,  or  to  degrade. 
The  Pro-Jerusalem  Society  would  wish  to  see  it  employed,  unless  for  the 
definite  relief  of  sickness,  in  the  betterment  of  the  city,  for  that  also 
implies  the  ennoblement  of  the  citizen. 

42.  The  Society  was  asked  if  it  would  aid  the  organization  of  the 
"Girl  Guides" — perhaps  the  title  "Girl  Scouts"  sometimes  used  is  more 
explanatory  of  the  objects — and  a  sum  of  £10  was  set  apart  for  the 
purpose,  subject  to  the  provision  that  a  uniform  be  worn,  and  that 
certain  general  principles  of  conduct  and  order  should  be  conformed  to. 
The  idea  was  to  help  instil  in  the  children  what  is  so  wanting  at  present, 
a  civic  consciousness — or  shall  we  say  conscience? — a  sense  of  trust  in  the 
beauty  of  the  city. 


40 


Finance 

43.  Whence  have  come  the  resources  for  these  many  undertakings  ? 
And  how  are  they  to  be  provided  in  the  future  ?  It  is  not  unfair  to  say 
that  they  have  been  found  almost  entirely  by  the  personal  enthusiasm 
of  Colonel  Storrs,  the  Military  Governor  of  Jerusalem.  The  Administra- 
tion and  the  Municipality  have  aided  with  subsidies,  but  the  original 
moneys  have  been  gifts  from  individuals  who  were  led  by  the  personal 
magnetism  of  the  Military  Governor  to  help  the  realization  of  a  great 
cause.  The  Holy  City  is  for  the  world  at  large,  not  for  any  sect,  creed, 
or  race.  That  is  the  motive  of  Pro-Jerusalem,  and  whomever  that 
motive  touches,  to  him  the  direct  appeal  is  made. 

44.  The  list  of  subscribers,  who  are  also  members  of  the  Society, 
during  the  three  years  1918-19-20,  given  below  (Appendix  II),  is  evidence 
of  how  wide  the  net  is  spread,  and  also  of  the  generosity  of  the  donors. 
In  all  nearly  £5,000  has  been  subscribed,  and  it  may  be  said  to  have  been 
allocated  on  the  Society's  various  undertakings,  roughly,  as  follows  : — 

Repairs  of  the  Suq   el  Qattanin    £1,000 

Weaving  enterprise    250 

Dome  of  the  Rock  repairs 250 

Citadel  cleaning    200 

Citadel  Gardens 500 

Rampart  Walk 500 

Children's  Playground 100 

Park  and  Garden  system 200 

Town  Plan  and  City  Survey  expenses 250 

Registration   of   monuments,    archaeological    work 

and  records    200 

Museum 100 

Technical  Education 300 

General  expenses,  not  allocable  over  the  above. . .  350 

The  balance  of  £800  may  be  regarded  as  available  cash.  The  items 
are  given  roughly  only,  as  salaries  and  wages  have  been  allocated  in 
proportion  to  the  time  spent  on  each  item. 

45.  A  monthly  financial  statement  is  presented  to  each  Council 
meeting  by  Mr.  John  Whiting,  the  Hon.  Treasurer,  who  took  office  after 
the  resignation  of  Captain  Harari,  the   late   Financial  Adviser  of  the 

F  41 


FINANCE 

Alilitary  Governor.  Much  of  the  Society's  early  achievement  is  due  to 
liis  care  and  forethought,  and  this  is  perhaps  a  fitting  place  for  some 
slight  recognition  of  what  he  did  for  the  Society  in  its  most  difficult  and 
uncertain  days. 

46.  The  finding  of  money  for  the  future  must  depend  on  what  form 
the  Society  itself  takes  in  the  new  civil  administration.  The  question  is 
largely  political,  and  does  not  concern  us  here.  This  record  is  one  of 
actual  fact  of  what  has  been  done  under  British  Military  Administration. 

Two  things,  however,  may  be  postulated  : — 

(i)  Future  revenue  is  likely  to  be  drawn  from  the  tourist  and 
the  pilgrim  as  of  old.  The  fund  of  charity,  to  which 
reference  was  made  in  Section  41,  will  continue.  The  test 
of  wise  administration  will  be  to  show  how  far  it  can  be 
better  employed  to  general  rather  than  sectarian  benefits. 
Also  those  who  love  the  Holy  City  enough  to  give  something 
towards  its  ennoblement  have  yet  to  learn  that  the  Society, 
being  of  all  creeds  and  races,  stands  for  a  wider  because  a 
non-sectarian  charity. 

(2)  Some  of  the  Society's  revenue  is  already  recurrent.  That  is 
to  say,  some  of  the  Society's  money  has  been  invested  in 
the  amenities  and  bears  return.  For  example,  the  Society 
already  draws  rents  from  repaired  buildings  and  shops, 
receives  interest  from  the  capital  invested  in  the  weaving 
industry,  and  takes  payment  for  the  education  services  it 
renders  to  the  Administration;  also  its  trees  will  have 
timber  value  in  the  future.  All  such  forms  of  income 
could  be  increased.  Further,  there  are  manj'^  other  of  the 
Society's  undertakings,  e.g.,  the  gardens,  the  walk  round 
the  city  walls,  the  historic  monuments  it  preserves,  which 
could  be  made  to  yield  revenue.  What  is  needed  is  a  stable 
government,  firmness,  sympathy,  and  imagination. 

C.  R.  AsHBEE,  M.A.  Cantab.,  F.R.I.B.A., 

Member  of  the  Town  Planning  Institute, 
Civic  Advisor  to  the  City  of  Jerusalem. 


42 


No.  70. 

The  JVailing  JJ  all,  slwzvmg  the  Ilerodian  courses  {with  modern 
Hebrew  inscriptions  on  the  bottom),  upon  them  post-Titus  work, 
with  the  Muslim  courses  of  smaller  masonry  above  the  scaffolding. 

(Note  the  trees  in  the  u'lill.  Jlebnw  inscription.!  are  only  on  the  bottom  three  courses ;  above 
these  to  the  scaffold  are  Roman,  post-Titus.) 


Tombs  of  "  The  Kings.'''' 


Xo.  7/. 


Desecrated  Jewish  rock-tomh,   Dabbet  er  Risclit 

{The  entrance  is  below  the  arrow.) 


No.  72. 


Skelch  oj  its  condition  made  in  igio  by  Pere  Finceni 


No.  75. 


Les  Restes  de  la  Civilisation  Israelite 
proteges  par  la  societe 

47.  Le  Mur  des  Pleurs  {Wailing  Wall).  —  L'enceinte  ouest  de  Tes- 
planade  du  Temple  donne  sur  I'ancienne  vallee  du  Tyropoeon  qui  d'ici 
se  continue  du  sud  jusqu'au  Siloe  par  la  porte  des  Moghrebins.  Les  Juifs 
qui  vont  pleurer  centre  ces  restes  de  I'antique  mur  le  designe  sous  Ic 
nom  du  Kotel  ha-Ma'arabi  (mur  de  I'ouest).  Sa  partie  visible  a  28  metres 
de  longueur  et  environ  3  m.  60  de  largeur  sans  compter  les  parties  qui 
sont  dissimulees  par  des  constructions  arabes,  ce  qui  ferait  une  longueur 
totale  de  48  metres.  Sa  hauteur  totale  est  de  18  metres,  mais  il  emerge 
du  sol  a  7  m.  70  au  dessous  du  niveau  de  I'esplanadc  du  Temple  et,  en 
outre,  on  constate  dans  le  sous-sol  19  assises  de  pierres  qui  continuent 
le  mur  jusqu'a  ses  fondements  inferieurs. 

D'une  fa^on  generate  on  pent  diviser  l'enceinte  dans  sa  partie  visible 
en  trois  sections  distinctes  qui  sont  superposces  Tune  sur  I'autre. 

A.  Partie   Israelite   certaine   {v.  Illustration  70). —  II  s'agit   des 

neuf  assises  inferieures  qui  sont  caracterisees  par  I'emploi 
de  gros  blocs  non  tallies,  a  peine  decoupes  dans  les  extre- 
mites  et  qui  sont  ranges  les  uns  sur  les  autres  d'une  fa^on 
inegale,  sans  avoir  jamais  ete  enduit  avec  du  ciment  ou  a 
la  chaux.(i)  Plusieurs  de  ces  blocs  ont  jusqu'a  5  metres 
de  long.  On  attribue  generalement  cette  partie  du  mur 
a  I'epoque  de  Herode.  Seulement,  dans  le  fond  de  ce 
genre  de  construction  on  retrouve  une  architecture  Israelite 
antique  qui  a  ete  observe  sur  de  nombreux  points  et  qui 
consiste  a  imiter  la  grotte  naturelle,  qui  formait  la  base  des 
habitations  primitives.  Entre  autres,  on  devait  s'abstenir 
de  I'usage  du  fer  pour  toute  mises  en  construction  des 
pierres  destinees  a  un  sanctuaire.(2) 

B.  Une  deuxieme  couche  de  pierres  qui  est  superposee  sur  la 

premiere   est   composee   de   quatre   assises    de   blocs   plus 

(i)  Je  me  reserve  de  traiter  plus  tard  des  restes  de  I'ancien  mur  qu'on  reconnail 
sur  plusieurs  points  de  l'enceinte  actuelle  de  Jerusalem,  grace  aux  immenses  blocs  nou 
tallies  qu'on  y  rencontre.  On  en  voit  au  nord,  aux  angles  sud-ouest,  comme  a  I'arche 
dite  de  Wilson  et  surtout  dans  le  pont  dit  de  Robinson  qui  contient  des  parties  plus 
anciennes  que  I'epoque  de  Herode.  II  en  est  de  meme  pour  les  substructions  de 
I'esplanade  du  Temple. 

(2)  Ch.  Exode  XX,  25  etc. 

43 


LES    RESTES    DE    LA    CIVILISATION    ISRAELITE 

ordinaires  d'environ  yi  m.  de  long  ;  elle  atteste  une 
origine  romaine  ou  byzantine  {v.  Illustration  70). 
C.  Quant  a  la  partie  superieure  qui  compte  en  tout  11  assises 
elle  est  construite  de  petites  pierres  et  est  posterieure 
au  XIP  slecle.  Les  rangees  superieures  datent  meme  du 
XIX^  siecle. 

Le  Mur  des  Pleurs  est  le  centre  prefere  du  pelerinage 
juif  de  tous  les  pays  et  de  tous  les  siecles  jusqu'au  moyen- 
age  le  plus  recule.  L'usage  de  venir  pleurer  sur  les  ruines 
du  Temple  est  mentionne  par  les  Peres  de  rEglise.(i)  Le 
Talmud  confirme  la  croyance  que  la  "Gloire  de  Jehova 
bannie  des  Saints  des  Saints"  se  serait  refugie  sur  le  mur  de 
I'ouest,  ce  qui  lui  confere  un  caractere  sacre  tout  special  (2) 
en  signe  de  deuil  on  ne  devrait  y  rien  changer  jusqu'au 
jour  de  la  Restoration  du  Temple. 

C'est  le  Vendredi,  le  Samedi  et  les  jours  des  grandes 
fetes  legales  et  surtout  le  9"^  jour  du  mois  d'Ab  (date  de  la 
destruction  du  Temple)  qu'ont  lieu  pres  du  mur  des  ser- 
vices reguliers.  La  coutume,  ainsi  que  le  rituel  des  prieres 
speciales,  n'ont  pas  varie,  du  molns  depuis  le  XIP  siecle. (3) 

Sous  le  regime  Turc  la  communaute  juive  avait  par- 
ticipe  aux  frais  du  nettoyage  des  environs  du  mur.  Aux 
debuts  de  1920  la  Societe  a  demande  de  lui  presenter  un 
rapport  sur  les  reparations  relatives  au  Aiur  des  Pleurs. 

48.  La  Tour  dite  de  David  {v.  Illustrations  3  et  29). —  Le  nettoyage 
et  le  deblaiement  faits  par  la  Societe  comprennent  egalement  la  Tour 
dite  de  David.  Cette  Tour  avec  I'ensemble  des  constructions  qui  I'en- 
vironnent  se  trouve  sur  I'emplacement  du  Palais  de  Herode. 

On  considere  toutefois,  etant  donnees  les  dimensions  que  Josephe 
attribue  a  la  Tour  Phazael  (90  coudees  sur  40)  (4),  que  c'est  cette  derniere 
qui  se  trouve  dans  la  base  de  la  Tour  actuelle.  La  derniere  reconstruc- 
tion de  la  Tour  comme  du  fort  tout  entier  date  de  Souleiman  II. 


(i)  Saint  Jerome,  Discours,  II,  Saint  Nazlanze  et  d'autres. 

(2)  La   Mishna   interdit  de  modifier  I'aspect  des  sanctuaires  en  ruines  et  meme 
d'en  arracher  les  herbes  afin  de  conserver  leur  etat  de  ruines  a  relever. 

(3)  Benjamin  de  Tudele,  Itineraire  (ecrit  vers  11 70). 

(4)  Guerres  des  Juifs,  V,  4. 

44 


LES    RESTES    DE    LA    CIVILISATION    ISRAELITE 

On  constate  d'un  cote  de  la  Tour  de  David  des  assises  de  blocs  non 
tallies  qui  s'elevent  du  sol  sur  une  hauteur  de  12  metres,  et  qui  attestent 
une  origine  herodienne  peu  modifiee  depuis.  C'est  dans  le  sous-sol 
forme  de  debris  qu'on  devrait  chercher  des  fondements  de  I'antique 
batiment  comme  aussi  I'entree  principale  qui  se  trouve  sans  doute 
ensevelie  profondement  sous  le  niveau  actuel  du  sol.  Des  travaux  de 
deblaiement  en  cet  endroit  seraient  riches  en  resultats.  II  faut  feli- 
citer  la  Societe  des  nettoyages  auxquels  elle  avait  deja  procede  et  qui 
augmentent  I'attrait  de  cet  endroit  si  pittoresque  de  la  Ville  Sainte. 

49.  Le  Mont  de  Sion  (v.  Illustration  25  m).  —  En  entreprenant  des 
travaux  de  nettoyage  et  de  deblaiement  pres  de  la  Porte  de  Nebi-Daoud 
la  Societe  touchait  de  pres  le  Mont  de  Sion.  En  outre,  dans  le  rapport 
qui  a  ete  presente  par  M.  le  Conseiller  Civique  sur  les  dommages  occa- 
sionnes  par  la  Tempete  de  1920  on  a  tenu  compte  du  fait  de  la  demolition 
des  murs  qui  entourent  ce  mont. 

Loin  de  nous  de  chercher  a  engager  une  nouvelle  discussion  au  sujet 
de  I'authenticite  de  la  tradition  qui  consiste  a  placer  le  mont  de  Sion  de  la 
Bible  sur  la  colline  sud-ouest  de  la  ville,  bien  que  Josephe  semble  s'y 
preter  en  quelque  sorte.(i)  Cette  tradition  les  Chretiens  I'ont  connue 
depuis  le  IV"  siecle;  quant  aux  Juifs,  un  voyageur  le  signale  vers  Fan 
1002.(2) 

Le  voyageur  Benjamin  de  Tudele  (vers  1160)  donne  comme  auteur 
de  la  decouverte  de  la  pretendue  Tombe  de  David  un  certain 
Abraham  el  Constantini  qui  I'aurait  retrouve  vers  1145.  Les  Juifs  se 
rendent  en  pelerinage  sur  la  Tombe  dite  de  David  le  lendemain  de  la  fete 
de  Shabouoth  (des  Semaines). 

50.  Tombeau  de  Simeon  le  Juste  {v.  Illustration  25). —  Je  considere 
que  le  moyen  le  plus  elhcace  de  preserver  les  hypogees  qui  sont  venerees 
par  les  Juifs  serait  de  les  englober  dans  le  systeme  des  pares  proposes  par 
M.  le  Conseiller  Civique,  tout  en  respectant  les  traditions  et  les  coutumes 
juives  relatives  au  pelerinage.  Voici,  d'ailleurs,  la  description  de  ces 
tombeaux. 


(i)  Antiquites  Juives,  XVI,  7.  (2)  V.  A.  Harkavy. 


45 


TOMBEAUX    JUIFS    DU    NORD 

C'est  en  suivant  la  route  qui  mene  de  la  Porte  de  Herode  vers  le 
nord-ouest  qu'on  rencontre  un  groupe  de  grottes  taillees  dans  les  rives 
pierreuses  et  escarpees  de  I'ouady  el  Djoz.  Parmi  ces  grottes,  deux  sont 
decrites  par  le  R.  P.  Vincent  (i)  dans  son  rapport  de  4  Decembre  1919 
au  Conseiller  Civique  (v.  "g"  sur  le  plan  (Illustration  25)  et  Illustra- 
tions 72,  73,  et  75). 

La  photographie  Illustration  72  presente  I'etat  actuel  de  la  fagade. 

Le  schema  Illustration  73,  pris  sur  un  croquis  sommaire,  donne  I'etat 
en  1910. 


Voici  le  texte  du  rapport  du  savant  Pere  : 

"  Le  second  hypogee  est  situe  environ  250  metres  plus  au  nord  et  s'ouvre 
au  niveau  actuel  du  sol  environnant,  juste  au  bord  du  chemin  moderne. 
L'entree,  beaucoup  plus  monumentale  que  dans  le  tombeau  precedent,  est 
decoree  dans  un  style  composite  caracteristique  de  I'epoque  judeo- 
romaine.  II  est  regrettable  qu'un  amateur  de  "  souvenirs  "  ait  pratique 
une  entaille  dans  la  frise  qui  couronne  I'entablement,  pour  detacher  un 
fragment  de  la  rangee  d'oves,  perles  et  olives  sculptee  dans  ce  corps 
de  moulures.     II  n'est  pas  invraisemblable  que  I'auteur  de  cette  petite 


(i)  Dans  la  region  septentrionale  de  la  ville,  au  lieu  dit  Dabbet  er  Rish,  a  la  nais- 
sance  de  I'ouady  el  Djoz,  se  trouvent  deux  remarquables  hypogees  juifs  de  I'epoque 
herodienne  situes  a  proximite  du  chemin  moderne  passant  un  peu  a  I'orient  de  la  colonic 
juive.  Le  premier  de  ces  monuments,  creuse  dans  une  grande  parol  de  roc,  environ 
20  metres  a  I'ouest  du  chemin,  comprenait  naguere  deux  salles  spacieuses.  Son  entree 
etait  ornee  d'un  encadrement  aux  lignes  tres  sobres,  surmonte  d'un  tympan  moulure, 
maladroitement  brise  de  vieille  date  deja.  L'interet  particulier  de  cette  facade  fune- 
raire  etait  d'offrir  une  courte  inscription  en  lettres  hebraiques  anciennes  donnant  le  nom 
du  titulaire  de  I'hypogee  et  par  ailleurs  d'une  reelle  valeur  paleographique ;  etant  donne 
la  rarete  des  inscriptions  hebraiques  d'epoque  herodienne.  Nous  avons  eu  le  regret  de 
constater  que  cette  tombe,  encore  accessible  en  1914,  avait  ete  transformee  en  cloaque 
et  totalement  obstruee  par  les  plus  malsaines  immondices  apportees  journellement  de 
la  colonic  juive  voisine.  —  P.  V. 

47 


TOMBEAUX   JUIFS    DU    NORD 

mais  cependent  facheuse  mutilation  soit  ce  meme  SnIK"  Israel,  qui 
a  grave  son  nom  sur  le  listel  juste  au-dessous  de  la  regrettable  et 
recente  cassure,  dans  la  situation  que  montre  le  sommaire  diagramme 
Illustration  75. 


T3i"  i-jiii'  Hill'  Lljiiii' ur  iJiir~aF 


LM'  Lll!'   Ui" '  LJIH    nw 


jmmmsm: 


^  FbRTE 


No.  7S. 


"M.  le  Conseiller  Civique  estime  que  le  moyen  le  plus  efficace  de 

proteger  ces  hypogees,  apres  les  avoir  nettoyees,  serait  de  les  englober 

dans  le  systeme  des  pares  et  jardins  projetes  pour  la  ville.    Le  plan  qu'il 

a  bien  voulu  elaborer  sera  certainement  accueilli  et  sa  realisation  appuyee 

par  le  Comite." 

L.  H.  Vincent. 


Une  plaine  plantee  d'oliviers  et  au  bord  de  laquelle  se  trouve  une 
colonic  juive  sert  de  centre  a  ces  hypogees  (Illustration  25  b).  Une  grande 
grotte  beante  porte  le  nom  de  la  synagogue,  et  des  traditions  juives  datant 
du  moins  du  XIIP  siecle  s'y  rattachent  comme,  d'ailleurs,  a  une  autre 

48 


TOMBEAUX  JUIFS   DU    NORD 

caverne  dite  "  Les  Caves  des  Rois ".  (i)  Parmi  ces  grottes,  c'est 
I'hypogee  dit  de  Simeon  le  Juste  qui  jouit  d'une  celebrite  toute  parti- 
culiere.  Situee  au  nord  de  la  plaine,  dans  le  flanc  des  rochers  qui  sur- 
montent  le  Dar  el  Mufti,  cette  caverne  n'a  rien  de  caracteristique  si  ce 
n'est  que  la  tradition  juive  y  place,  depuis  le  XV'  siecle  surtout,(2)  le 
lieu  de  sepulture  de  Simeon  le  Juste,  le  grand  pretre  et  le  docteur  du  III* 
siecle  av.  J.-C.  L'hypogee  contient  deux  salles  et  c'est  dans  I'interieur 
qu'on  montre  le  sepulcre  de  cette  illustre  personnage,  a  qui  on  devait 
egalement  I'agrandissement  et  I'embellissement  de  Jerusalem.  (3) 

Pres  de  I'entree  de  la  grotte  sont  inhumes  les  restes  des  ossements  de 
la  famille  royale  qui  ont  ete  decouverts  par  M.  de  Saulcy  dans  les  sar- 
cophages  des  Tombeaux  des  Rois. 

Le  Tombeau  de  Simeon  le  Juste  jouit  d'une  faveur  toute  speciale 
aupres  les  Juifs  de  la  Ville.  lis  s'y  rendent  en  masse  le  28  Tishre  (en 
Octobre),  date  de  I'anniversaire  de  Simeon  selon  le  Talmud.  (4)  11  en  est 
de  meme  pour  le  lendemain  de  la  fete  des  Semaines.  Mais  c'est  le  jour 
dit  Lag-Ba'omer  (5)  que  presque  toute  la  population  juive  de  Jerusalem 
se  donne  rendez-vous  sur  la  place  qui  porte  le  nom  du  Saint. 

La  grotte  et  la  place  environnante  sont  la  propriete  de  la  Com- 
munaute  Juive. 

51.  Tombeaux  dits  des  membres  du  petit  SynMrion  {v.  Illustration  25). — 
Quelque  minutes  de  marche  vers  I'ouest  du  Tombeau  du  Simeon  on  ren- 
contre une  grande  grotte  avec  plusieurs  compartiments  qui  contiennent 
23  locules  ou  bancs-tombes.  Etant  donne  que  le  chiffre  de  23  represente 
exactement  celui  des  membres  du  petit  Synedrion  qui  exer^ait  la  justice 
a  Jerusalem,  une  tradition  de  date  tres  recente  y  place  les  tombeaux  des 
membres  d'un  petit  Synedrion  qui  y  seraient  inhumes  en  bloc.  Au  point  de 
vue  archeologique,  cette  grotte  n'offre  aucun  interet  special. 

52.  Tombeaux  des  Rois  {v.  Illustration  25  r).  —  La  Societe  ayant 
ete  emue  de  I'etat  neglige  pendant  la  guerre  dans  lequel  se  trouve 
actuellement  le  monument  connu  sous  le  nom  de  Tombeaux  des  Rois 
{v.  Illustration  71)  s'est  fait  adresser  un  rapport  special  sur  ce  sujet. 

(i)  V.  Zacharie,  XIV,  10. 

(2)  EUe  est  mentionnee  pour  la  premiere  fois  dans  un  carnet  de  voyage  d'un  pelerin 
de  Florence  datant  de  I'an  148 1. 

(3)  V.  I'Ecclesiastique  de  Ben-Sirach. 

(4)  Talm.  Babyl.  Traite  Yoma,  f.  39^. 

(5)  Le  33*  jour  des  sept  semaines  qui  separent  la  Paque  de  la  fete  des  Semaines. 

G  49 


TOMBEAUX  JUIFS    DtJ    NORD 

La  grotte  appelee  les  Tombeaux  des  Rois  (Kobour  el  Molouk)  qui  se 
trouve  a  moins  de  800  metres  de  la  Porte  de  Damas  est  un  des  plus 
beaux  monuments  de  I'art  judai'que.  Ce  dernier  a  ete  connu  et  venere 
longtemps  avant  que  M.  de  Saulcy  (i)  n'ait  precede  a  des  travaux  de 
deblaiement  qui  ont  abouti  a  la  decouverte  des  sarcophages  et  d'autres 
objets  d'art  qui  aujourd'hui  decorent  la  Salle  des  antiquites  judai'ques  au 
Musee  de  Louvre. 

M.  de  Chateaubriand  en  a  donne  la  premiere  description  detaillee. 
Voici,  d'ailleurs,  un  releve  sommaire  de  I'ensemble  tel  que  ce  monument 
nous  a  ete  revele  par  les  fouilles  de  M.  de  Saulcy: 

Un  grand  escalier  taille  dans  le  roc  large  de  8  metres  forme  de  25 
marches  conduit  dans  une  cour  interieure.  II  est  flanque  de  petits  canaux 
qui  conduisent  I'eau  vers  une  espece  de  bassin.  On  entre  par  une  arcade 
dans  une  vaste  cour  de  28  metres  de  longueur  et  de  25  m.  30  de  largeur. 
C'est  sur  le  cote  ouest  de  la  cour  que  s'ouvre  I'hypogee  meme.  Un  large 
vestibule  soutenu  autrefois  par  deux  colonnes  doriques  aujourd'hui  dis- 
parus  est  surmonte  par  une  frise  de  style  judai'que  finement  sculpte.  On 
y  voit  un  triglyphe,  une  metopee  ornee  d'un  anneau,  puis  une  grappe 
de  raisins  entre  deux  couronnes  et  deux  palmiers,  ailleurs  on  aper^oit 
des  feuillages  mal  conserves.  La  porte  d'entree  cylindrique  qui  est 
basse  et  etroite  se  trouve  a  gauche  aujourd'hui  ouverte,  mais  on  voit 
encore  la  grosse  pierre  ronde  dite  le  Goleil  (la  roulante)  qu'on  faisait 
rouler  a  volonte.  On  entre  dans  la  salle  centrale  qui  est  carree  et 
assez  elevee  et  sur  laquelle  s'ouvrent  quatre  chambres  ou  on  apergoit 
des  fours  a  tombeaux  et  des  Kochim.  (2)  C'est  dans  la  plus  profonde 
de  ces  chambres  que  M.  de  Saulcy  avait  decouvert  les  sarcophages 
royaux  et  des  objets  d'art. 

Sur  le  cote  anterieur  de  I'un  de  ces  sarcophages  on  lit  en  caracteres 
dits  estranghelo  (syriens)  et  repetes  en  hebreu-arameen  le  nom  d'une  reine 

I.  Kn^S:^  px  2.  nn^So  rm 

Traduction  :  La  reine  Sidonia  (3)  ou  la  reine  Sadda  (en  arameen). 

On  a  voulu  chercher  a  reconnaitre  dans  ces  tombeaux  les  restes  des 
rois  de  Juda  (4)  puis  ceux  d'Helene  d'Adiabene  et  de  ses  fils.  (5)  Plus 
tard  la  decouverte  d'une  empreinte,  tres  suspecte  d'ailleurs  qui  porte  le 

(i)  Cf.  M.  de  Saulcy,  Histoire  de  I'art  Judaique. 

(2)  Dite  Arcosolia. 

(3)  Le  nom  de  Sidonia  est  frequent  en  dialecte  phenicien. 

(4)  M.  de  Saulcy. 

(5)  Robinson,  Palestine,  p.  183. 

50 


TOMBEAUX  JUIFS    DU    NORD 

nom  d'Helene  etait  venue  renforcer  cette  derniere  opinion.  Pour  moi 
I'hypogee  demeure  la  necropole  des  derniers  Hasmoneens.  La  reine 
Sidonia  ou  Sadda  serait  une  reine  juive  de  la  fin  du  IP  ou  du  commence- 
ment du  I"  siecle. 

La  tradition  juive  venere  cet  hypogee  qu'elle  connait  depuis  des  siecles 
sous  le  nom  de  la  grotte  de  Kalba  Shaboua,  un  philanthrope  du  I"  siecle.  (l) 
Dans  une  etude  de  date  recent  on  a  essaye  d'identifier  ce  nom  avec  celui 
de  Monebozes  fils  d'Helene  et  grand  bienfaiteur  de  Jerusalem.  (2) 

Un  folklore  special  se  rattache  a  cette  grotte.  On  lui  attribue  des 
phenomenes  miraculeux.  Entre  autres,  ses  portes  s'ouvraient  d'elles-memes 
le  jour  d'anniversaire  du  deces  des  personnages  qui  y  sont  enterres.  (3) 

L'Hypogee  du  Rois  est  la  propriete  de  la  famille  juive  de  Pereire  a 
Paris  qui  en  a  fait  don  au  Gouvernement  Franfais. 

53.  Tombeaux  des  Juges  (v.  Illustration  25  (i).  —  Un  quart  d'heure 
de  marche  des  Tombeaux  des  Rois  par  la  route  de  Nebi  Samuel  conduit 
vers  les  Tombeaux  des  Juges,  ou  les  Kobour  el  Koudat,  en  arabe.  Les 
Juifs  les  appellent  du  nom  des  Tombeaux  du  Grand  Synedrion,  le  nombre 
des  tombes  qu'on  y  trouve  etant  de  71.  Bien  que  le  chiffre  correspond 
reellement  au  nombre  des  membres  de  Synedrion,  il  ne  faudrait  pas 
prendre  cette  tradition  en  serieuse  consideration. 

II  s'agit  d'un  grand  hypogee  qui  est  creuse  dans  le  rocher.  On  y 
penetre  par  un  vestibule  qui  mene  a  une  grande  chambre  sepulcrale. 
Un  fronton  orne  de  sculptures  et  encadre  de  moulages  offre  un  magnifique 
specimen  d'art  judai'que.  D'elegants  rinceaux  de  feuillages  et  de  fruits 
se  deroulent  a  droite  et  a  gauche  d'une  triple  palme  centrale. 

Sur  un  autre  fronton  on  voit  un  rosace  epanui  d'ou  se  deroulent  deux 
grands  palmiers.  Le  couvercle  d'un  tombeau  dont  les  fragments  se 
trouvent  au  musee  du  Louvre  portent  une  inscription  oil  Ton  lit  le  nom 
de  pnx*  (Isaac),  en  hebreu  carre  archai'que. 

Comme  I'ornementation  permet  de  le  fixer,  le  tout  daterait  de 
I'epoque  des  Herodiades.  Les  voyageurs  juifs  du  moyen  age  signalent 
cet  hypogee  comme  etant  le  lieu  de  repos  de  nombreux  docteurs  de  la 
Loi,  ce  qui  serait  assez  plausible.  A  partir  du  XV°  siecle  on  avait  pris 
I'habitude  de  la  considerer  comme  I'hypogee  des  membres  du  Grand 
Synedrion.  Les  pelerins  juifs  combinent  leurs  visites  avec  celles  des  jours 
qui  sont  reserves  a  la  Tombe  de  Simeon  le  Juste. 

(i)  Un  voyageur  carai'te  de  I'an  1055  '^  signale  sous  ce  nom. 

(2)  V.  le  recueil  Jerusalem  de  A.  M.  Luncz,  t.  I,  p.  93. 

(3)  Cf.  P.E.F.,  q.s.,  1897,  p.  182  et  s. 

51 


TOMBEAUX    JUIFS    DE    L'EST 

54.  La  Vallee  de  Josaphat  (v.  Illustration  25  ^).  —  Inclu  dans  le  sys- 
teme  des  pares  propose  par  M.  le  Conseiller  Civique  d'apres  le  nouveau 
plan  de  la  Ville. 

La  Vallee  de  Cedron  a  ete  de  tout  temps  le  centre  prefere  des  sepul- 
tures juives.  Deja  a  sa  naissance,  au  nord-ouest,  ou  elle  porte  un  autre 
nom,  on  remarque  sur  ses  rives  le  groupe  des  Tombeaux  des  Rois  et  des 
Juges.  Plus  loin  on  rencontre  le  pittoresque  cimetiere  des  Caraites  d'un 
interet  tout  particulier.  En  tournant  vers  Test,  on  rencontre,  entre  la 
gare  et  la  Ville,  au  milieu  d'un  vaste  groupe  des  sepulcres  juifs,  un  hypogee 
qui  est  considere  comme  celui  de  la  famille  de  Herode  et  qui  se  distingue 
par  la  solidite  de  sa  construction,  comme  par  le  travail  soigne  de  deux 
sarcophages  ornes  de  sculptures  judaiques  qu'on  trouve  dans  I'interieur 
de  ce  souterrain.  (i)  Mais  c'est  du  cote  sud-est  que  cette  vallee  est 
consideree  sur  toute  son  etendue  qui  separe  la  ville  du  Mont  des 
Oliviers  comme  la  Vallee  de  Josaphat,  ou  celle  du  jugement  dernier. 

Cette  allegorie  empruntee  aux  prophetes  provient  surtout  de  ce  que 
cette  vallee  sert  depuis  I'antiquite  de  vaste  necropole  aux  Juifs  de  toutes 
les  epoques.  Les  Musulmans  ayant  repris  cette  tradition,  inhument  leurs 
morts  sur  la  pente  orientale  de  la  coUine  du  Temple,  alors  que  tout  le 
versant  ouest  —  entre  la  pente  du  Mont  du  Scandale  et  jusqu'aux  jardins 
de  Gethsemani  et  aux  "  Viri  Galilei"  (en  passant  par  les  villages  de  Siloe 
au  sud  et  de  la  Tour  au  nord)  on  rencontre  des  tombeaux  juifs  antiques 
et  recents,  ces  derniers  etant  caracterises  par  des  pierres  tumulaires 
disseminees  sur  les  pentes  en  desordre. 

Nombreux  sont  les  tombeaux  des  prophetes  et  des  docteurs  que  la 
tradition  croit  pouvoir  identifier  dans  ces  endroits.  La  survivance  de 
plusieurs  monuments  datant  de  I'antiquite  et  la  decouverte  d'inscriptions 
ecrites  de  sarcophages  et  d'ossuaires  peints  donnent  beaucoup  de  consis- 
tance  a  ces  traditions.  Ainsi  on  avait  decouvert  sur  la  pente  du  Moftt 
du  Scandale  des  nombreux  hypogees  dont  plusieurs  contiennent  des 
epitaphes  d'origine  juive  ecrites  en  hebreu  ou  en  grec  et  datant  des  pre- 
miers siecles  du  christianisme. 

Du  cote  sud,  au  pied  du  village  de  Siloe  on  montre  le  tombeau  dit 
du  prophete  Isaie.  (2) 

(1)  C'est  pres  d'ici  que  la  vallee  commence  a  porter  le  nom  de  Rephaim,  c.-a.-d.  dcg 
morts,  des  races  disparues.    Ch.  Joel,  IV,  2  etc. 

(2)  Une  inscription  grecque  confirme  I'anciennete  de  cette  tradition. 

5a 


TOMBEAUX  JUIFS    DE    L'EST 

Dans  une  grotte  situee  en  face  de  la  source  de  Siloe  on  montre  la  sepul- 
ture de  Rabbi  Obadia  de  Bartanora,  le  docteur  (l)  italien  du  XV^  siecle 
et  le  restaurateur  de  la  Communaute  Juive  moderne  de  la  Ville  Sainte. 

Au  nord  du  Siloe,  sur  la  pente  occidentale  de  la  coUine,  on  rencontre 
un  monolithe  detache  du  roc  et  dont  une  porte  donne  acces  a  une  grotte 
double  taillee  dans  le  roc. 

M.  Clermont-Ganneau  a  reconnu  sur  un  cartouche  au  dessus  de  la 
porte  des  lettres  hebraiques  pheniciennes  qui  datent  de  I'epoque  du  pre- 
mier Temple.  D'autre  part,  le  mausolee  porte  un  caractere  egyptien 
distinct,  ce  qui  prouve  qu'il  s'agit  d'un  hypogee  anterieure  a  la  Captivite. 

Plus  au  nord,  du  cote  est  du  versant  se  detachent  trois  monuments 
celebres  du  fond  de  ce  champ  eternel  de  la  mort.  Du  cote  nord  c'est  le 
roc  taille  dit  la  main  d'Absalon  (I'obelisque)  que  je  crois  constituer  un 
monument  commemoratif  ayant  ete  eleve  par  le  peuple  de  Jerusalem  sur 
une  place  qui  avait  ete  consacree  par  la  tradition  anterieure. 

Quant  a  la  pyramide  dite  de  Zacharie,  cette  derniere  pourrait  bien 
etre  un  monument  d'expiation,  en  commemoration  du  meurtre  du  pretre 
et  prophete  Zacharie.  Pareil  acte  serait  conforme  a  I'esprit  pietiste  des 
Pharisiens  comme  a  un  passage  qu'on  rencontre  dans  les  Evangiles. 

Derriere  le  monument  dit  d'Absalon  on  aper^oit  a  peine  les  vestiges 
du  tombeau  dit  de  Josaphat,  aujourd'hui  invisible.  Heureusement  que 
nous  possedons  une  reproduction  fort  bien  faite  de  ce  monument  ainsi 
que  d'une  frise  qui  represente  un  specimen  du  plus  bel  art  judai'que  des 
derniers  siecles  de  la  Judee. 

C'est  entre  ces  deux  monuments  si  originaux  que  se  detache  la  grotte 
dite  de  la  retraite  de  St.  Jacques,  mais  qui  en  realite  ouvre  la  serie  d'hypo- 
gees  juifs  dates  et  identifies.  On  aper^oit  de  loin  les  deux  colonnes  doriques 
qui  soutiennent  I'architrave  de  cette  caverne  qui  est  creusee  dans  les 
flancs  des  rochers  bordant  la  vallee.  L'inscription  qu'on  lit  au  dessus  de 
I'architrave  ne  laisse  plus  subsister  des  doutes  concernant  le  caractere 
de  cet  hypogee,  quoique  en  dise  la  tradition  chretienne  ou  juive,  cette 
derniere  y  ayant  placee  la  retraite  de  Roi  Uzie  atteint  par  la  lepre. 

Le  texte  est  grave  en  caracteres  hebraiques  archaiques  et  I'ortho- 
graphe  date  des  derniers  deux  siecles  de  I'existence  de  la  Judee. 

nnn  'jao  . . .  non  ^n  nTySxi   cjavSn  • . .  p  eiDV  ':2 

Traduction  :  Ceci  est  le  tombeau  et  lieu  (de  repos)  pour  El'azar, 

(l)  R.  P.  Abel  et  Vincent,  Jerusalem,  II,  p.  68. 

53 


TOMBEAUX   JUIFS    DE    L'EST 

Honiah,  Yo'azar,  Yehoudah,  Shimeon,  Yohanan,  les  fils  de  .  .  .  le 
(et  pour  Jo)seph  et  El'azar  les  fils  de  Honiah  .  .  .  des  Bene  Hezir. 

II  s'agit  de  I'hypogee  de  la  famille  sacerdotale  des  Bene  Hezir  men- 
tionne  par  i  Chroniques  Ch.  XXIV,  15.  On  distingue  encore  a  Tinterieur 
les  loctdi  ou  les  fours  destines  a  recevoir  les  morts,  mais  tout  le  reste 
avait  disparu. 

Malgre  toutes  les  vicissitudes  de  I'histoire,  le  versant  ouest  du  Mont 
des  Oliviers  n'a  guere  cesse  de  demeurer  le  centre  des  inhumations  juives. 
La  plupart  de  monuments  ou  des  pierres  tombales  ayant  disparu  ou  ayant 
ete  ensevelies  ou  detruites  par  la  pluie  on  ne  voit  plus  sur  la  surface  que 
les  pierres  de  ces  derniers  siecles  qui  couvrent  tout  I'espace.  Chateau- 
briand en  a  laisse  un  tableau  tres  fidele: 

"Les  pierres  du  cimetiere  des  Juifs  se  montrent  comme  un  amas  de 
debris  au  pied  de  la  montagne  du  Scandale,  sous  le  village  de  Siloan.  .  .  . 
On  a  peine  a  distinguer  les  mesures  de  ce  village  des  sepulcres  dont  elles 
sont  environnees.  Trois  monuments  antiques,  les  tombeaux  de  Zacharie, 
de  Josaphat  et  d'Absalon,  se  font  remarquer  dans  ce  champ  de  destruc- 
tion. A  la  tristesse  de  Jerusalem,  dont  il  ne  s'eleve  aucune  fumee,  dont 
il  ne  sort  aucun  bruit,  a  la  solitude  des  montagnes,  ou  Ton  n'aperg:oit  pas 
un  etre  vivant,  au  desordre  de  toutes  ces  tombes  fracassees,  brisees, 
demi-ouvertes,  on  dirait  que  le  trompette  du  Jugement  s'est  deja  fait 
entendre  et  que  les  morts  vont  se  lever  dans  la  vallee  de  Josaphat." 

Cette  vision  du  grand  romantique  m'avait  paru  exacte  lors  de  ma 
premiere  visite  a  Jerusalem,  il  y  a  un  quart  de  siecle.  Elle  a  fort  peu 
change  meme  aujourd'hui  —  si  bien  qu'il  faudrait  porter  un  remede 
quelconque  a  cette  tristesse  ecrasante,  je  dirais  meme  blessante.  Aussi 
ne  saurais-je  saluer  qu'avec  joie  I'idee  du  Conseiller  Civique  qui  consiste 
a  faire  planter  sur  les  deux  versants  un  pare  bien  ordonne.  Ce  dernier 
aurait  ainsi  englobe  les  monuments  de  I'antiquite  et  dissimule  la  nudite 
des  pierres  tombales  parmi  les  arbres  verdoyants. 

II  faudrait  seulement  faire  attention  a  la  presence  sur  le  sol  comme  dans 
le  sein  de  la  terre  de  nombreux  souvenirs  qui  se  rattachent  a  I'antiquite. 

II  en  est  de  meme  pour  ce  qui  concerne  les  tombes  des  rabbins  et 
des  saints  de  ces  derniers  siecles,  telle  le  sepulcre  convert  d'un  tas  de 
pierres  du  penitent  Kalonymos  qui  se  trouve  tout  pres  du  Monument  de 
Zacharie.  Tres  veneree  est  egalement  la  tombe  du  cabbaliste  Jehouda 
ha-hassid  qui  se  trouve  en  bas  du  cimetiere  des  Ashkenazim  (i),  ce  dernier 
etant  situe  au  dessus  de  celui  des  Sephardim  (2). 

(i)  Juif  de  Rite  Europeen.  (2)  Juif  de  Rite  Oriental. 

54 


TOMBEAUX  JUIFS    DE    L'EST 

55.  Tombeaux  des  Prophetes  {v.  Illustration  25/).  —  Plus  au  nord  on 
rencontre  sur  le  versant  est  de  la  vallee  et  jusqu'aux  hauteurs  du  Mont 
des  Oliviers  des  groupes  d'hypogees  fort  anciens.  La  forme  primitive 
de  plusieurs  d'entre  eux  qu'on  appelle  souvent  "egyptiens"  attestent 
de  leur  originalite  et  antiquite.  Les  plus  connus  sont  les  tombeaux  dits  des 
Prophetes  qui  se  trouvent  sur  la  pente  sud  du  village  de  la  Tour.  II 
s'agit  des  cavernes  creusees  dans  le  roc  pres  du  sommet  et  ayant  au  milieu 
une  salle  a  trois  ouvertures  entrecoupees  qui  donne  I'impression  d'etre 
appuyee  sur  des  colonnes  grossieres  d'environ  30  m.  de  diametre  chacune. 
On  compte  dans  ces  parois  24  Kokhim  ou  arcosolia  servant  de  tombes. 
L'absence  de  toute  ornementation  et  le  style  primitif  de  I'ensemble  sont 
temoins  de  I'anciennete  de  I'hypogee. 

Des  textes  du  XV^  siecle  placent  dans  ces  cavernes  les  sepulcres  du 
prophete  Hagai  et  de  ses  disciples,  alors  qu'un  auteur  caraite  de  I'an 
1522  y  ajoute  les  noms  des  tombes  des  prophetes  Zacharie  et  Malachie. 

Les  Juifs  considerent  cette  grotte  comme  un  lieu  saint.  II  y  a  une 
trentaine  d'annees  I'Eglise  Russe  s'etant  rendue  proprietaire  de  cet 
hypogee,  cette  acquisition  avait  suscite  les  protestations  unanimes  de  la 
population  juive.  Si  bien  que  le  Gouvernement  Turc  ait  fini  par  interdire 
aux  Russes  d'eriger  toute  construction  sur  la  grotte. 

Une  tradition  juive  qui  manque  d'ailleurs  de  toute  base,  place,  en 
outre,  I'hypogee  de  la  prophetesse  Hulda  tout  pres  de  la  grotte  des 
Prophetes. 

Par  contre  on  avait  decouvert  et  identifie  de  nombreux  hypogees 
juifs  de  I'epoque  greco-romaine  dans  les  jardins  russes  de  Gethsemani  et 
au  nord  dans  I'emplacement  dit  Viri  Galilei,  pres  de  la  Chapelle  Grecque 
de  I'Ascension.  Ces  monuments  qui  ont  fourni  des  inscriptions  fort 
interessantes  meritent  qu'on  les  preserve  d'une  destruction  certaine. 

Nahum  Slousch, 
Docteur  es  Lettres  (Sorbonne), 
Director-delegue  de  la 
"  Jewish  Palestine  Exploration  Society." 


55 


Les  Monuments  de  l'Epoque  Romaine 
proteges  par  la  societe 

56.  Jerusalem  n'avait  pas  encore  cesse  d'etre  la  capitale  juive,  et 
deja,  vers  le  debut  de  notre  ere,  sa  physionomie  esthetique,  depouillant 
graduellement  toute  originallte,  se  mettait  a  I'unisson  de  la  culture 
hellenistlque  predominante  a  travers  I'orient,  surtout  depuis  I'extension 
de  la  puissance  romaine.  A  peine  le  Temple  auguste  du  Dieu  d'Israel 
marquait-il  une  certaine  autonomic  artistique  dans  la  vieille  cite ; 
I'empreinte  hellenistique  venait  d'etre  imprimee  jusque  sur  le  glorieux 
sanctuaire  par  la  restauration  fastueuse  d'Herode  le  Grand. 

Presque  aneantie  par  la  conquete  des  legions  de  Titus,  en  I'an 
70  apres  J.-C,  la  ville  essaya  vainement  de  se  reconstituer,  dans  le 
premier  quart  du  second  siecle,  comme  centre  du  mouvement  nationaliste 
autonome  que  dirigeait  Bar-Kokebas.  Cette  tentative  avortee  consomma 
I'aneantissement  de  la  cite  juive.  L'empereur  Hadrien  en  decreta  la 
suppression  et  le  remplacement  par  une  ville  coloniale  romaine,  dont  le 
vocable  nouveau  effacerait  jusqu'au  souvenir  de  Jerusalem.  Sur  le  plan 
rituel  d'une  colonic,  en  I'an  136  de  notre  ere,  des  architectes  romains 
creerent  la  jeune  cite  d'Aelia  Capitolina,  avec  son  Forum,  son  Capitole 
et  Ic  vaste  cycle  des  temples,  basiliques,  theatres,  thermes,  portiques, 
rues  a  colonnades,  arcs  commemoratifs  et  autres  edifices  municipaux  qui 
faisaient  a  toute  colonic  une  image  plus  ou  moins  attenuee  de  la  loin- 
taine  metropolc. 

Topographiquement  la  ville  etait  desormais  figee  pour  de  longs 
sieclcs  par  la  delimitation  dc  la  colonic  imperiale.  EUe  ne  devait  guerc  se 
modifier  jusqu'au  mouvement  dc  subite  expansion  contemporaine,  en 
attendant  que  les  plans  aujourd'hui  en  elaboration  lui  donnent  une 
repartition  et  un  developpement  mieux  adaptes  a  son  role  nouveau, 
comme  a  nos  modernes  concepts  esthetiques  ct  sociaux. 

La  ville  chretiennc  est  derivee  sans  transition  archeologique  de  la  cite 
romaine  d'Aelia  Capitolina,  dont  clle  a  seulement  nuance  I'aspect  par  la 
substitution  d'eglises  aux  anciens  edifices  religieux  du  paganisme,  mais  en 
conservant  dans  toute  leur  integrite  les  monuments  civils  adaptes  au 
regime  nouveau.  La  conquete  arabe,  la  fondation  du  royaume  latin,  les 
invasions  ulterieures,  la  longuc  domination  turque,  ne  furent  que  des 
modalites  dans  I'evolution  perseverante  de  la  meme  tranie  archeologique. 
Aussi  n'est-on  point  surpris  de  rencontrer  en  maint  endroit  de  la  ville 
moderne,  ou  de  voir  reparaitre  frequemment,  des  qu'on  en  remue  quelque 

56 


LES    MONUMENTS    DE    L'EPOQUE    ROMAINE 

peu  le  sol,  des  vestiges  romains  bien  caracterises  :  pauvres  epaves  le  plus 
souvent,  9a  et  la  toutefois  elements  gracieux  de  constructions  imposantes. 

57.  Bien  que  I'heure  ait  ete  trop  longtemps  retardee  ou  des  re- 
cherches  systematiques  pourront  etre  entreprises  pour  operer  le  deblaie- 
ment  total  et  assurer  la  conservation  de  ces  vestiges,  I'attention  du 
Comite  n'a  cesse  d'etre  en  eveil  pour  enregistrer  et  sauvegarder  tous  les 
debris  de  Jerusalem  romaine. 

A  peine  la  ville  etait-elle  liberie,  par  la  brillante  victoire  du  General 
Allenby,  de  I'engourdissement  sordide  ou  la  plongeait  depuis  tant  de 
siecles  une  domination  deprimante  et  oppressive,  que  I'administration 
militaire  anglaise  etait  a  I'oeuvre  pour  ameliorer  des  conditions  hygie- 
niques  nefastes.  Parallelement  aux  admirables  travaux  qui  allaient 
bientot  approvisionner  Jerusalem  en  eaux  vives,  la  plus  notable  entre- 
prise  fut  le  nettoyage  methodique  de  la  Citadelle  pres  de  la  porte  occiden- 
tale  ou  Porte  de  Jaffa.  Chacun  sait  que  le  vaste  edifice  designe  sous  ce 
nom  quelque  peu  emphatique  groupe  des  masures  plus  ou  moins  modernes 
avec  de  splendides  constructions  medievales  et  des  elements  romains  et 
juifs  de  I'epoque  herodienne.  Les  preoccupations  urgentes  du  moment, 
non  moins  que  les  conditions  imposees  par  le  statut  politique  temporaire, 
nelaissaient  pas  la  faculte  des  fouilles  laborieuses  qu'eut  exige  I'exploration 
archeologique  fondamentale  de  cet  ensemble  tres  enchevetre.  II  fallait 
se  borner  aux  mesures  preliminaires  d'assainissement  par  I'evacuation 
de  detritus  de  toute  nature,  et  des  plus  encombrantes  masses  de  de- 
combres.  Cette  tache  realisee  avec  autant  d'energie  que  de  prudente 
circonspection  a  pourtant  revelc  maint  detail  deja  fort  suggestif  des 
transformations  que  les  architectes  romains  firent  subir  a  I'antique  palais 
fortifie  d'Herode  pour  I'adapter  a  I'ordonnance  du  camp  ou  la  legion 
dixieme  demeura  cantonnee  apres  le  siege  de  I'an  70,  et  pour  I'harmoniser 
par  la  suite  a  la  structure  gcnerale  de  la  colonic  d'Aelia  Capitolina. 
Les  constatations  archeologiques  rendues  possibles  par  ces  fructueux 
travaux  seront  fecondes  pour  guider  I'exploration  future.  Sur  le  site  du 
Temple  ancien,  devenu  le  Haram  de  la  cite  musulmane,  la  mosquee  de  la 
Roche  —  dite  communement  mosquee  d'Omar —  exigeait  imperieusement 
quelques  restaurations  {v.  Illustrations  19,  20).  Tandis  qu'il  les  dirigeait 
avec  une  science  technique  et  un  art  consommes,  M.  le  major  architecte 
Richmond  accomplit,  autour  du  merveilleux  edifice,  des  recherches 
archeologiques  discretes  et  habiles  dont  il  lui  appartient  naturellement  de 
divulguer  en  temps  voulu  les  precieux  resultats.  Disons  seulement  que 
parmi    les   faits    archeologiques   enregistres    dans    cette    investigation    si 

H  57 


LES    MONUMENTS    DE    L'EPOQUE    ROMAINE 

sagace,  il  en  est  quelques-uns  de  nature  a  eclairer  d'une  lumiere  opportune 
et  inesperee  revolution  architecturale  du  monument,  et  en  particulier 
I'etat  du  site  a  I'epoque  romaine. 

Diverses  informations  concernant  le  meme  periode  ont  resulte  d'une 
double  entreprise  methodiquement  poursuivie  depuis  deux  ans  par  la 
remarquable  competence  et  patiente  activite  de  M.  I'architecte-ingenieur 
Ashbee,  depuis  longtemps  specialise  en  ce  domaine  esthetique  :  creation 
d'un  systeme  de  jardins  et  de  pares  dans  la  ville  et  aux  alentours  ;  installa- 
tion d'une  promenade  sur  le  chemin  de  ronde  a  la  crete  des  vieux  remparts 
et  sur  le  perimetre  de  I'enceinte.  Et  si,  la  comme  partout  ailleurs,  les 
conditions  du  present  n'autorisaient  pas  une  exploration  archeologique 
integrale,  du  moins  les  vestiges  romains  constates  ont  pu  etre,  suivant 
I'occurrence,  degages,  remis  en  valeur,  consolides,  ou  au  contraire,  apres 
consolidation  provisoire  et  reperage  precis,  mis  a  I'abri  pour  I'exploration 
methodique  de  demain.  C'est  ainsi  qu'en  amenageant  naguere  un  jardin 
et  une  terrasse  de  jeux  pour  les  enfants,  dans  un  quartier  tres  desherite 
de  la  ville  haute,  en  bordure  d'une  des  arteres  aboutissant  vers  la  porte 
de  Nebi  Daoud  et  presque  au  voisinage  de  cette  porte,  fut  constatee 
I'existence  de  substructions  monumentales  sous  le  mole  de  detritus  et 
gourbis  ruineux  constituant  ce  qu'on  nomme  aujourd'hui  le  ouaqf  Abou 
Liya  {v.  Illustrations  9,  10).  Pour  autant  qu'il  etait  possible  de  s'en 
rendre  compte,  une  fois  realise  le  nettoyage  prealable  du  site,  le  sous-sol 
consiste  en  un  reseau  d'arcades  en  plein-cintre  assujetties  sur  de  puis- 
santes  piles  quadrangulaires  et  supportant  un  dallage  massif.  L'obtura- 
tion  de  quelques-unes  de  ces  arcades  par  des  ma^onnerie  de  blocage  et 
I'application  d'un  revetement  etanche  a  transforme  ulterleurement  ces 
substructions  en  citernes.  II  est  toutefois  assez  clair  que  telle  ne  fut  point 
leur  destination  primitive.  II  suffit  d'observer  les  formes  structurales,  la 
nature  et  la  situation  de  ces  vestiges  pour  en  soupgonner  I'origine  romaine. 
Feut-etre  d'aucuns  evoqueront-ils  a  ce  propos  la  creation  du  pavement 
luxueux  en  grandes  dalles  que  la  munificence  herodienne  fit  realiser  dans 
la  ville  entiere,  apres  I'achevement  du  Temple.  Plus  volontlers  neanmoins, 
jusqu'a  plus  ample  informe,  on  serait  enclin  a  rattacher  ces  beaux  debris 
a  I'installation  du  camp  romain  sur  le  site  qui  nous  occupe,  a  partir  de  la 
conquete  de  70.  En  cette  zone  meridionale  du  camp,  I'erection  de 
quelque  edifice  de  speciale  importance,  a  moins  que  ce  ne  soit,  plus 
vraisemblablement  encore,  le  simple  etablissement  d'une  artere  de  com- 
munications interieures,  rendrait  le  meilleur  compte  de  la  plate-forme 
artificiellement  developpe  au  moyen  de  ces  substructions  inebranlees 
apres  de  si  longs  siecles  fertiles  en  bouleversements  de  toute  nature. 

58 


LES    MONUMENTS    DE    L'EPOQUE    ROMAINE 

58.  Et  tandis  que  I'activite  du  Comite  Pro-Jerusalem  enrichissait 
notablement  ainsi  notre  connaissance  archeologique  de  la  cite  romaine, 
sa  vigilance  ne  se  revelait  pas  moins  feconde  pour  la  sauvegarde  des 
monuments  deja  connus.  Un  exemple  caracterlstique  en  fera  suffisam- 
ment  la  preuve. 

Tout  le  monde  a  en  memoire  les  belles  decouvertes  realisees,  voici 
deja  un  quart  de  siecle,  aux  abords  de  la  piscine  de  Siloe,  par  les  vastes 
fouilles  que  dirigerent  M.  le  Dr.  F.  J.  Bliss  et  M.  I'architecte  A.  C.  Dickie 
pour  le  compte  du  "  Palestine  Exploration  Fund  ".  Outre  les  imposants 
vestiges  d'une  basilique  chretienne  en  relation  immediate  avec  les  por- 
tiques  de  la  piscine,  ces  fructueux  et  difficiles  travaux  revelerent  notam- 
ment  I'existence  d'un  systeme  complique  de  vieux  murs  appartenant  a 
divers  periodes  du  rempart  de  Jerusalem  antique,  et  surtout  une  voie 
monumentale  a  escaliers  qui,  par  le  fond  primitif  de  la  vallee  du  Tyropoeon, 
mettait  la  piscine  de  Siloe  en  communication  directe  avec  la  ville  d'epoque 
romaine  {v.  Illustration  76).  Vers  la  fin  de  I'ete  de  1919  un  entrepreneur 
de  constructions  bien  au  fait  de  ces  decouvertes  qui  avaient  fait  bruit  en 
leur  temps,  eut  I'idee  astucieuse  de  les  exploiter  clandestinement  pour 
approvisionner  a  peu  de  frais  ses  chantiers.  Non  content  d'avoir  utilise 
d'abord  comme  une  tres  lucrative  carriere  un  enorme  massif  de  magon- 
nerie  antique  situe  a  I'angle  nord-ouest  de  la  piscine,  il  commen^iait 
I'extraction  des  superbes  dalles  de  la  rue  a  escaliers  quand  sa  funeste 
besogne  fut  observee  par  M.  le  conseiller  civique  Ashbee  dans  une  de  ses 
frequentes  rondes  de  surveillance.  La  dilapidation  fut  aussitot  inter- 
rompue,  le  fouilleur  indiscret  contraint  de  remettre,  autant  que  faire  se 
pouvait,  toutes  choses  en  etat,  et  condamne  par  surcroit  a  une  amende 
de  cinquante  livres  egyptiennes  :  sages  et  energiques  mesures  qui  de- 
courageront  vraisemblablement  a  I'avenir  les  tentatives  analogues. 

59.  Dans  la  limite  si  restreinte  encore  de  ses  ressources  et  de  sa 
liberte  d'action,  etant  donne  le  statut  provisoire  qui  a  regi  la  contree 
jusqu'a  ce  jour,  le  Comite  Pro-Jerusalem  a  done  bien  merlte  deja  des 
antiquites  romaines  de  la  Ville  Sainte.  Si  le  resume  succinct  et  neces- 
sairement  superficiel  qu'on  vient  de  lire  a  reussi  a  donner  quelque  idee 
de  sa  feconde  activite  dans  ce  domaine  special,  qui  represente  seulement 
une  faible  partie  de  la  tache  qu'il  poursuit,  chacun  voudra  pratiquement 
seconder  un  labeur  si  utile  au  developpement  scientifique,  esthetique, 
economique  et  social  de  Jerusalem. 

L.  H.  Vincent, 
Prof,  a  I'Ecole  biblique  et  archeologique 
Jerusalem,  mai  1920.  de  Saint-Etienne,  Jerusalem. 

59 


\\ 


'•;-\ 


A 


Roman  Stairway  at  Siloam. 

Plan  based  on  the  Bliss  and  Dickie  excavations,  showing  where  the 
Stairway  from  Jerusalem  to  Siloam  has  been  disturbed. 


No.  76. 


Pool  of  Siloam.  f. 
Rock-hewn  conduit. 

Ancitnt  Pool  and  hfth-century  Church.  g. 

Old  Pool.               ^^                ^  ^ 

The  great  Roman  Stairway  and  street  (with  i. 

drain   below)  running  from    Jerusalem  XXX. 

down  to  Siloam. 


The  south  wall  of  the  city,  of  the  period 
of  the  Empress  Eudocia. 

Inferred  line  of  wall. 

Gate. 

Existing  paths. 

The  portions  within  the  circle  are  those 
destroyed  by  the  contractor. 


Monuments  des  Croisades  proteges 

PAR    LA    SOCIETE    PRO-JERUSALEM 

60.  II  n'est  pas  encore  entre  dans  les  attributions  de  la  Societe  de 
s'occuper  directement  des  edifices  eleves  au  moyen  age  a  Jerusalem,  tels 
que  les  diverses  eglises  aujourd'hui  en  exercice  (le  Saint-Sepulcre,  Sainte- 
Anne,  Saint-Jacques  des  Armeniens,  le  Tombeau  de  la  Vierge),  ou  trans- 
formees  en  mosquees  ou  en  ouelys  (Nebi-Daoud,  el  Yaqoubiyeh,  Cheikh 
Derbas,  Djamia  Mawlana,  etc.).  Tandis  que  les  unes  sont  entretenues 
soigneusement  par  leurs  proprietaires,  les  autres  sont  soumises  a  une 
reglementation  qui  echappe  a  la  competence  de  notre  Comite.  Celle-ci 
ou  celle-la  pourtant,  abandonnee  a  un  delabrement  pitoyable,  pourra 
etre  I'objet  d'un  examen  attentif  de  la  part  des  archeologues  qui  auront 
a  coeur  de  signaler  les  degradations  et  les  moyens  a  employer  pour  la 
conservation  de  ces  venerables  temoins  de  I'histoire  de  la  Ville  Sainte. 

L'activite  des  constructeurs  du  XIP  siecle  a  ete  telle,  meme  en  dehors 
du  domaine  religieux,  qu'il  est  difficile  de  ne  pas  rencontrer  en  n'importe 
quel  point  de  la  ville  des  vestiges  de  leur  travail.  Si  les  reparations 
apportees  aux  maisons,  aux  khans,  aux  bains,  aux  bazars,  aux  portes,  aux 
remparts,  aux  rues,  par  les  Arabes  et  les  Turcs  dans  les  siecles  qui  ont 
suivi  les  Croisades  ont  masque  ou  defigure  la  batisse  medievale  en  divers 
endroits,  elles  n'ont  pas  reussi  a  en  dissimuler  partout  le  caractere  original. 

61.  Le  nettoyage  opere  a  la  Citadelle  (el  Qalaah:  v.  Illustrations  3,  6j) 
par  les  soins  du  Comite,  en  attendant  de  proceder  a  un  deblaiement 
plus  complet,  a  certainement  mis  en  valeur  quelques  locaux  remontant  a 
I'occupation  franque.  La  destruction  systematique  dont  ce  monument 
fut  victime  en  1239  de  la  part  de  Adalek-en-Naser  et  de  Daoud,  prince  de 
Kerak,  dans  le  but  d'aft'aiblir  la  ville  convoitee  par  les  Occidentaux,  ne 
s'est  pas  etendue  aux  salles  bases,  ni  aux  souterrains.  Apres  avoir  abattu 
les  constructions  superieures  que  les  Croises  avaient  consolidees  et 
developpees,  les  demolisseurs  renoncerent  a  desceller  les  blocs  de  la 
batisse  inferieure  dont  une  partie  subsistait  depuis  les  temps  herodiens. 

Vulgairement  appelee  "  Tour  de  David  "  de  I'une  de  ses  plus  notables 
constructions  decoree  de  ce  nom  depuis  I'epoque  byzantine,  la  Citadelle 
joua  un  role  considerable  dans  I'histoire  de  la  Jerusalem  du  XII'  siecle. 
Reduit  a  capituler  apres  que  la  ville  fut  tombee  aux  mains  des  Occiden- 
taux, I'Emir  Efftikhar  Ed-Dauleh  I'avait  remise  au  comte  Raymond  de 
Toulouse,  a  condition  d'avoir  la  faculte  de  se  retirer  a  Ascalon  avec  sa 

61 


MONUMENTS    DES    CROISADES 

garde  composee  d'Arabes,  de  Turcs  et  de  negres.  Les  nouveaux  maitres 
se  garderent  de  negliger  un  ouvrage  militaire  de  cette  importance. 
Immediatement  le  comte  Gamier  de  Gray  en  accrut  la  force  defensive, 
en  iioo.  La  forteresse  comprenait,  outre  la  tour  dont  on  voit  encore  le 
soubassement  massif,  toute  une  serie  d'appartements  et  d'abris  proteges 
par  des  remparts,  des  fosses,  des  barbacanes,  des  machicoulis.  On  y 
gardait  d'abondantes  reser\-es  d'eau  et  de  ble,  en  prexnsion  d'une  alerte 
qui  obligerait  les  habitants  de  la  yWIq  a  s'y  refugier.  C'etait  veritable- 
ment  le  donjon  de  la  cite,  le  praisidium  civitatis,  aux  termes  memes  des 
contemporains.  La  tour  atteignait  une  hauteur  imposante  puisqu'il 
fallait  gra\'ir  deux  cents  degres  pour  en  atteindre  le  sommet.  Une  partie 
de  cet  escalier  portant  tres  \-isiblement  les  caracteristiques  de  la  taille 
medievale  se  retrouve  en  montant  a  la  terrasse  de  la  tour  actuelle. 
L'higoumene  russe  Daniel  obtint,  comme  une  faveur  exceptionelle,  la 
permission  de  la  \'isiter  en  1106.  "  Elle  est  tres  difficile  a  prendre,  ecrit-il, 
et  forme  la  principale  defense  de  la  \*ille;  on  la  garde  soigneusement  et  on 
ne  permet  a  personne  d'y  penetrer  sans  surveillance.  Tout  infirme  que 
je  suis,  Dieu  m'a  accorde  I'acces  de  cette  tour  sacree  avec  Isdeslav,  qui 
a  ete  le  seul  que  j'ai  pu  faire  entrer  avec  moi. " 

Cette  citadelle,  dont  certains  chateaux-forts  de  Syrie  nous  donnent 
une  idee,  etait  confiee  a  un  officier  qui  porta  d'abord  le  titre  de  Gardien 
de  la  Tour  de  Da\-id,  puis  celui  de  Chatelain  de  la  Tour,  ou  Chatelain 
de  Jerusalem.  Elle  etait  en  somme  la  residence  du  gouvemeur.  En 
depit  de  certaines  revendications  qui  s'agiterent  entre  les  chefs  de  I'armee 
conquerante,  elle  fit  partit  des  domaines  royaux  et  figura  sur  les  sceaux 
d'Amaur}-  I"^  (1162-1173)  et  sur  les  monnaies  de  son  successeur 
Baudouin  IV,  sjinbole  de  I'independance  et  de  la  pleine  souverainete  des 
rois  latins  de  Jerusalem.  Ceux-ci  y  avaient  annexe  un  palais  faisant 
face  a  la  tour  principale  vers  le  midi ;  ce  "manoir  du  Roy",  comme  on 
I'appelait,  etait  situe  sur  la  rue  des  Armeniens  dans  le  voisinage  de  la 
petite  eglise,  encore  tres  reconnaissable,  de  Saint-Thomas  des  Allemands. 

Un  detail  qui,  quoique  remontant  a  I'an  1 15 1,  ne  manque  pas 
d'actualite  est  a  relever  ici,  puisqu'en  ce  moment  Ton  pense  au  nom  de 
I'esthetique  et  de  la  protection  du  monument,  a  soulager  la  Porte  de 
Jaffa  du  fardeau  encombrant  de  I'horloge  turque. 

II  s'agit  d'un  acte  de  la  reine  de  Jerusalem,  Melissende,  suppri- 
mant  un  moulin  qui  genait  la  Tour  de  DaN-id  et  la  porte  de  la  \'ille  qui  y 
touche.  En  compensation,  les  freres  de  Saint-Lazare,  qui  en  etaient  les 
proprietaires,  resolvent  un  champ  pres  de  Bethleem.  Quand  on  con- 
sidere  que  la  partie  lesee  etait  la   societe  chargee  des  leproseries,   on 

62 


MOMMFMS    ni-S    cROlSAOF.S 

con.-;t.uo  qu'on  i.-o  tonips-l.\  r.uuoiitc  no  iwul.iit  vio\  .nit  .uu-uac  OvMisidrrA- 
tion  ni  mesuro  r.uiio.ilo  pour  .issuici   A  l.i   \  illc  Jo  TaisAnco  ot   Ac  I'har- 

monio. 

(V.  l.o  (.\Muito  .1  oc.iloinoni  ou  ."i  s\\\-upov  dos  H.»ins  liu  r.uri.u\i\c 
ct  do  1.1  pisoino  Jo  niomo  lunn.  qui  so  ti\ni\ont  do  part  cl  d'autiv  de  la 
ruo  dos  Chrotious  {iDut  i-.'H-.V.;,v.;r<l-  r.  Illustrations  2<;,  14").  Rappolons  a 
CO  sujoi  qu'.nant  dc  dovonir  un  C>uaqf  ^\c  la  Ktuinihih  S.iJ.^hUvh,  ootte 
install.ition  balnoairo  ot  l.i  pi.<oino  qui  ralimontait.  ctaicnt  dcja  en  usage 
au  Xll'  sioolo  sous  los  appoIl.it  ions  dc  Bttlma  patriarchm  et  de  Jmcu^ 
baJnrorum.  Los  rovonus  011  ot.iionT  reserves  au  palais  du  r.itriarchc 
qui  dovait  dovouir  onsuito  l.idito  A.' /j<jh </.!/).  1  ..1  nio  dos  (.'iuotiei\s 
s'appolait  alors  oourauiiuout  soit  luo  i.lu  Patri.noho.  sv>it  luo  ilos  Haius 
du  Patriarche. 

(■)}.  .\  ccXtc  opoquo.  I'ospnoc  oompris  entro  lo  lUrkrt  ILimtti/Itu  /■/ 
Batriik  (,qui  oousorvo,  on  lo  voit.  son  nom  niodio\  .iH  ot  la  Porte  de  jalla, 
nommec  alors  Porto  >.\c  n.i\  id.  n'ot.iit  jms.  oiMiuno  Ac  nos  jours,  eneombr6 
des  const ruot ions  hetoroolites.  l,o  noni  niodornc  de  MfiJiin  qui  designe 
la  ruo  au  nord  Ac  la  Citadollo  n'osl  qu'uno  roniinisoonoo  de  Fautique 
place  <.ni.  au  piod  ilo  l.i  Tour  ilo  n.nid.  on  t. lis. lit  lo  coniiiioio<'  ilos  001c. lies. 
La  possibilito  d'un  do;:.i;:oniont  .111  nioins  p.uliol  Ac  l.i  I'mto  Ac  J.illa  a 
etc  cnvisagoo  par  lo  Coinite  Pro-Jcrusaleni.  un  rolonr  .1  rd. it  piiiuiiif 
nc  devant  pas  raisonnabloniont  olio  pris  cw  oonsidoi.ition  ^r-.  Ulusii.i- 
tions  4045). 

64.  Mais  ou  i!  a  ete  possible  d'elToi  tuoi  icit.iinos  inulioi.itions,  c'est 
a  I'ensonible  des  bazars  voutos  qui  oooupont  le  ou-iir  ilo  l.i  \illo  h  ini- 
cheiniii  entio  la  C'itadcUe  el  la  Torto  du  il.ir.uu  ililo  lull'  r^  Silsilrh. 
Nous  avons  la  irois  rues  parallelos  aiiuolloniont  donominoos,  il'ouosi  on 
est  : — 

1.  Sodq  d  La/iIiAnifn  (Bazar  dos  Ivuuhers). 

2.  So^q  t-l  ''Jttann  (Bazardos  parlinncurs:  f.  illin.Ir.ilions  i ,'.    \U). 

3.  Sodq  el  Kluiivdjat  ou  cs-^ouyyaK'i   (l^azar  Ac  lUKoiianls  uii 

des  orfcvros). 

Aux  temps  byzantins  rcmplacenient  de  ccs  trois  Souqs  n'el.iii  qu'iine 
section  de  la  grande  rue  a  cok)nnes  qui  traversait  la  ville  du  nurd  au  siui, 
de  la  Porte  de  Danias  a  la  Porto  dcSion.     La  proxiinilo  Aw  S.iint  SopuK  le 

03 


MONUMENTS    DES   CROISADES 

y  avait  sans  doute  attire  un  grand  nombre  de  commer^ants,  et  Fun  des 
marches  signales  par  les  recits  de  la  prise  de  Jerusalem  par  les  Perses  en 
614,  devait  assurement  se  trouver  la.  L'agora  qu'ils  mentionnent  est  a 
localiser  d'autre  part  au  Meid&n  de  la  porte  occidentale  de  la  ville  que 
I 'on  appelait  aussi  B&b  er-Rahbeh  (Porte  de  la  place)  au  temps  de  Moudjir 
ed-Din.  Pour  en  revenir  au  triple  bazar,  les  Arabes,  a  leur  arrivee, 
auraient  laisse  aux  Chretiens  les  deux  rangees  de  boutiques  qui  longeaient 
la  rue  a  I'occident  et  a  I'orient,  mais  se  seraient  approprie  I'espace  inter- 
mediaire  qui  constituait  le  marche  du  milieu. 

65.  Pour  faciliter  les  transactions,  des  changeurs  s'etaient  etablis  a 
chaque  extremite  de  ces  halles.  Au  XIP  siecle,  on  trouvait  les  changeurs 
latins  au  sud,  et  les  changeurs  syriens,  c'est  a  dire  indigenes,  au  nord, 
occupant  les  premieres  echoppes  en  tete  des  Souqs,  jusqu'a  ce  que  la 
restauration  de  Melissende  les  cut  groupes  en  deux  corps  de  logis  dis- 
tincts.  Digne  emule  des  Helene  et  des  Eudocie,  cette  reine,  ainsi  que 
nous  I'apprend  une  piece  officielle  de  1152,  avait  obtenu  la  cession  de 
divers  locaux  appartenant  aux  deux  "Changes"  afin  de  parfaire  une 
nouvelle  rue  a  Jerusalem,  ad  perficiendam  novum  rugam  in  Jherusalem. 
Une  rue  tenant  aux  deux  groupes  d'echoppes  des  changeurs  latins  d'un 
cote,  et  syriens  de  I'autre,  ne  peut  etre  qu'un  des  trois  bazars  paralleles 
en  question.  Les  "Changes"  furent  des  lors  recules,  I'un  au  midi  jusqu'a 
la  Bachourah,  aujourd'hui  la  cafe  a  colonnes ;  I'autre  celui  des  Syriens 
dans  le  corps  de  batiment  en  tete  de  Htret  ed-Dabbcighin  qui  conduit  au 
Saint-Sepulcre. 

Que  la  nouvelle  rue  creee  par  Melissende  soit  identique  au  Souq  el 
^Attarin  actuel,  la  preuve  en  est  fournie  non  seulement  par  le  style  de  cette 
construction,  mais  aussi  par  les  inscriptions  recouvertes  de  badigeon,  mais 
que  M.  Clermont-Ganneau  a  pu  relever  autrefois  et  publier  dans  Archeo- 
logical  Researches,  I,  p.  117.  C'est  le  titre  Sa^icta  Anna  grave  plusieurs 
fois  a  la  naissance  des  arcs  doubleaux,  et  marquant  les  boutiques  appar- 
tenant a  I'abbaye  de  Sainte-Anne  et  dont  cette  abbaye  percevait  la 
location.  Un  diplome  de  1 170  donne  pour  une  maison  de  la  rue  des 
Drapiers  contigue  a  celle-ci  une  boutique  de  Sainte-Anne  comme  point  de 
repere,  Juxta  stationem  S.  Annae.  Si  Ton  songe  qu'au  milieu  du  XIP 
siecle,  Sainte-Anne  avait  pour  abbesse  la  propre  sceur  de  Melissende, 
Judith,  on  trouvera  tout  naturel  que  cette  reine  ait  assigne  une  grosse 
partie  des  revenus  de  sa  nouvelle  rue  a  I'entretien  du  dit  monastere. 

A  prendre  la  description  de  la  "Citez  de  Jerusalem"  au  pied  de  la 
lettre,  cette  rue  centrale  s'appelait  "Rue  de  la  cuisine"  que  le  populaire 

64 


MONUMENTS    DES   CROISADES 

avait  baptisee  Malcuisinat.  La,  dit  on,  s'accommodaient  les  viandes  pour 
les  pelerins ;  c'est  la  egalement  qu'ils  se  faisaient  laver  la  tete.  Ce  dernier 
detail  implique  Tinstallation  des  coiffeurs  ou  parfumeurs,  d'oii  le  nom 
actuel  dJ''AttaAn.  Lorsque  Saladin  eut  transforme  en  madraseh  I'etablisse- 
ment  de  Sainte-Anne,  il  lui  attribua  les  revenus  du  Souq  el  'Attann,  per- 
petuant  par  la  la  decision  de  la  princesse  latine.  II  faudrait  dans  ce  cas 
modifier  la  position  de  ce  baxar  telle  que  la  fixe  Aioudjir  ed-Din  en  lui 
donnant  la  situation  qu'il  occupe  aujourd'hui.  Quoi  qu'il  en  soit,  I'ordre 
de  ces  rues  paralleles  etait  au  moyen  age  le  suivant,  en  partant  de  I'ouest: — 

1.  Rue  des  herbes  :  marche  aux  legumes  et  aux  epices. 

2.  Rue  Malcuisinat   {vicus  coquinatorum)  :  cuisines  populaires 

et  salons  de  coiffure,  (i) 

3.  Rue  Couverte   {ruga  cooperta  —  parmentariorum)  :   des  mar- 

chands  tailleurs. 

66.  Le  groupement  des  metiers  auquel  travaille  le  Comite  dans  un 
but  de  commodite  et  d'hygiene  etait,  comme  on  le  voit,  chose  faite  au 
XII"  siecle.  Chaque  corporation  avait  sa  rue  ou  sa  section  de  rue.  Au 
centre  de  la  ville  nous  rencontrons  les  corps  de  metiers  :  drapiers,  tail- 
leurs, restaurateurs,  coiffeurs,  marchands  de  cierges,  changeurs,  chacun 
dans  son  bazar.  Dans  la  partie  meridionale  du  Mauristan,  oii  notre 
Societe  a  plante  quelques  arbres  sur  le  terre-plein  des  mines,  se  trouvaient 
localises  le  marche  aux  oeufs  et  aux  volailles,  le  marche  aux  poissons 
(f.  Illustration  54).  De  part  et  d'autre  de  la  place  travaillaient  les 
orfevres  syriens  et  les  orfevres  latins.  Sur  la  rue  du  Temple  (Tariq  Bab 
es-Silsileh)  on  avait  a  gauche  en  descendant,  la  Boucherie  (macellum, 
bocharia)  avec  I'escorcherie  du  Roy ;  a  droite,  les  cordonniers ;  en  allant 
vers  la  porte  des  Moghrebins  (Poterne  de  la  Tannerie)  la  rue  des 
Pelletiers. 

67.  Le  Khhn  ez  Zeit  qui  n'a  pas  ete  non  plus  sans  attirer  Tattention 
vigilante  du  Comite  etait  fort  connu  au  XIP  siecle  sous  le  nom  de  Rue 
Saint-Etienne  a  cause  de  sa  direction  vers  la  porte  septentrionale  de  la 

(i)  Cette  rue  etait  mitoyenne  a  la  rue  Couverte:  "Tenant  a  celle  rue  Malcuisinat, 
a  une  rue  qu'on  appelle  la  rue  Couverte,  la  ou  Von  vend  la  draperie."  Ce  textc  de  la 
Citez,  X,  est  confirme  par  cette  charte  de  1167  :  domos  quasdam  accipit,  vicos  Coguinati 
et  Parmeniariorum  inUrjacentes  scilicet  in  angulo  illo  quo  itur  ad  Sepulchrum  Domini. 
II  est  a  croire  que  le  Souq  oriental  se  prolongeait  aussi  loin  que  k§  putres  au  nord  et 
n'ctait  point  diminue  de  moitic  commc  aujourd'hui. 

I  65 


MONUMENTS    DES    CROISADES 

ville  qui,  depuis  I'epoque  byzantine,  s'appelait  dans  les  milieux  chretiens 
Porte  Saint-Etienne.  Les  documents  medievaux  signalent  dans  cette 
rue  un  moulin  a  huile  assez  important  pour  avoir  donne  plus  tard  son 
nom  au  bazar  sur  lequel  il  se  trouve,  des  voutes  appartenant  a  I'hopital 
Saint-Jean  et  de  nouvelles  boutiques  construites  par  le  chapitre  du  Saint- 
Sepulcre.  Le  So'ilq  el  Qattanin  {v.  Illustrations  17, 1 8)  relevait  de  I'abbaye 
de  Temple  comme  les  bains  avoisinants,  ainsi  que  plusieurs  magasins  de 
la  ville  marques  du  signs  T  S,  c'est  a  dire  Templi  Statio.  Mais  sur  ce 
Quartier  dV/  Ouady  nous  n'aurons  d'amples  details  que  le  jour  ou  I'on 
retrouvera  et  que  Ton  publiera  les  archives  de  I'abbaye  du  Temple,  comme 
il  a  ete  fait  jusqu'ici  pour  le  Saint-Sepulcre,  les  Hospitallers,  la  Sainte- 
Sion  et  Notre  Dame  de  Josaphat. 

F.  M.  Abel, 

Prof,  a  I'Ecole  biblique  et  archeologique 
de  Saint-Etienne,  Jerusalem. 


66 


Muslim  Work  Touched  by  the 
Pro- Jerusalem  Society 

68.  The  Dome  of  the  Rock  has  already  been  referred  to  in  Sec- 
tions lo  and  57  of  these  records.  A  ground  plan  is  here  given  (Illustra- 
tion 77).  The  building  is,  as  its  name  "Kubbet  es  Sakhrah"  implies, 
the  covering  or  dome  over  the  sacred  rock,  the  rock  with  which  tradition 


10 


20 

=3    Metres. 


DOME     OF    THE  ROCK. 


No.  77. 


connects  the  sacrifice  of  Isaac  and  Mohammed's  heavenly  journey.  The 
inscription  on  the  inside  of  the  drum  records  its  building  in  the  year 
72  H.  (a.d.  691)  by  the  Khalif  Abd  el  Malek.  One  hundred  and  twenty 
years  later  the  name  of  Abd  el  Malek  was  cut  out  and  that  of  El  Mamun, 

67 


MUSLIM    WORK   TOUCHED    BY   THE   SOCIETY 

who  repaired  the  building,  inserted.  The  plates  of  gilded  copper  with 
which  the  Dome  was  originally  covered  were  removed  to  pay  for  the 
damage  of  the  earthquake  of  130  h.  (a.d.  747-8).  Much  of  the  material 
of  the  Dome  is  that  of  earlier  buildings,  Byzantine  or  Roman,  on  or 
around  the  city,  and  doubtless  destroyed  at  the  time  of  the  invasion  of 
Chosroes  II,  a.d.  614,  and  shortly  before  the  capture  of  the  city  by  the 
Khalif  Omar,  a.d.  639.  The  story  of  how  Omar  found  the  site  derelict 
is  well  attested;  but  what  the  base  of  the  existing  building  may  be,  and 
whether  it  is  that  of  Hadrian's  Temple  of  Aelia  Capitolina,  can  only  be 
verified  when  the  foundations  below  the  floor  of  the  existing  buildings 
are  examined.  Portions  of  the  earlier  mosaic  skin  of  the  building,  before 
the  sixteenth-century  ceramic  skin  with  which  Major  Richmond's  report 
deals  (see  Section  10),  have  been  recently  discovered  in  the  Haram  area. 

69.  The  first  Aqsa  mosque  was  built  by  Omar  in  14  h.  (a.d.  635), 
and  rebuilt  by  Abd  el  Malek  in  72  H.  (a.d.  691).  This  building,  which 
is  said  to  have  been  wrecked  by  an  earthquake  in  130  h.  (a.d.  747-8), 
was  restored  by  Al  Mansur,  probably  in  154  h.  (a.d.  771),  as  he  is  known 
to  have  visited  Jerusalem  in  that  year.  A  few  years  later  it  was  again 
restored  by  Al  Mahdi,  say  about  163  H.  (a.d.  780). 

The  earliest  descriptions  of  the  Aqsa  which  we  possess  are  those  of 
Muqaddasi  (a.d.  985)  and  Nasiri  Khosrau  (a.d.  1047),  but  the  building 
described  by  them  in  no  way  corresponds  with  the  present  building,  its 
size,  the  number  of  its  doors,  and  the  number  of  columns  supporting  the 
roof  being  much  greater.  From  their  descriptions,  which  are  in  fair 
agreement,  and  which  in  some  respects  supplement  each  other,  it  is  clear 
that  the  Aqsa  mosque  of  their  day  had  fifteen  doors  in  the  north  side 
and  eleven  in  the  east,  and  consisted  internally  of  a  forest  of  280  columns 
arranged  in  twenty  rows  of  eleven  each.  In  this  respect  it  must  have 
resembled  the  great  mosque  of  Cordova  (eighth  to  tenth  century) ;  in 
fact,  these  two  buildings  are  actually  mentioned  together  for  purposes 
of  comparison  by  Idrisi  (a.d.  1154).  The  central  aisle  was  wider  than 
the  rest,  and  there  was  a  big  dome  over  the  space  in  front  of  the  mihrab. 

The  Crusaders  under  Godfrey  de  Bouillon  took  Jerusalem  a.d.  1099, 
and  the  Haram  ash  Sherif  was  handed  over  to  the  Knights  Templars. 
They  do  not  appear  to  have  made  any  alterations  to  the  Dome  of 
the  Rock  (which  they  imagined  to  be  the  Temple  of  the  time  of 
Christ)  beyond  the  addition  of  the  beautiful  grille  which  they  placed 
between  the  columns  of  the  inner  aisle  ;  but  they  must  have  made 
considerable   changes    in    the  Aqsa,  which  was  known  to  them  as  the 

68 


A- 


'niwTjp,«"*ifc'^ 


-  •-"-«..- 


:  *;»3?e^-*vi,^^jj^  j^^  ^^ 


■^-^ 


Entrance  to  the  Sitg  el  Oattanin. 


No.  yS. 


i 


^    '^M 

■^.-      "ms^^ 

> "                 '. 

I^-^.        ^ 

^m^^^^^^^^Sr^'  '^ 

tc 

% 

\ 

f 

i- 

i: 

■^ 


<  1  ■ 

1-1  \' 


,^*' 

--     -.- 

■■"■''^''     ^! 

i 

• 

'  'r' 

« 

^ 

■ 

r//!-'  cartouche  of  Sultan  Suleiman  tincovered  in  the  Citadel. 


No.  7p. 


MUSLIM    WORK.   TOUCHED    BV   THE   SOCIETY 

"Palatium"  or  "Templum  Salomonis."  They  used  it  as  their  residence, 
and  added  the  double  row  of  vaulted  bays  which  extend  the  present 
building  to  the  west  along  the  southern  wall  of  the  Haram  and  formed 
their  armoury.  They  are  probably  responsible  for  the  greater  part  of 
the  vaulted  portico  in  front  of  the  northern  entrances  to  the  mosque. 

On  Saladin's  reconquest  of  the  city  in  1187  further  changes  were 
effected,  and  the  work  of  the  Crusaders  was  obliterated  to  a  great  extent, 
and  it  is  to  him  and  to  the  Crusaders  that  the  mosque  owes  its  present 
form,  the  first  description  which  we  possess  after  the  time  of  Saladin— 
that  of  Mujir  ad  Din — agreeing  substantially  with  the  present  building. 
Saladin  is  known  to  have  restored  the  gold  mosaics,  and  a  fine  Kufic 
inscription  in  gold  mosaic  on  the  left  of  the  mihrab  is  almost  certainly 
due  to  him.  He  also  brought  from  Aleppo  the  beautiful  pulpit  which 
had  been  made  for  Nur  ad  Din  in  564  h.  (a.d.  1168)  for  the  small  mosque 
in  the  Citadel  of  that  city,  and  on  which  is  carved  one  of  the  earliest  known 
inscriptions  in  Naskh,  which  henceforth  began  rapidly  to  replace  Kufic. 


70.  The  Stiq  el  Qattamn. — This  bazaar,  the  finest  in  Syria,  is  entered 
by  two  portals,  of  which  the  eastern  (see  Illustration  78),  leading  into 
the  Haram  ash  Sherif,  is  one  of  the  noblest  and  largest  monumental 
gateways  to  be  seen  in  Syria.  This  great  portal  is  provided  with  lateral 
openings  giving  direct  access  to  the  arcades  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Haram,  which  are  of  the  same  date;  and  above  these  openings  is  some 
stalactite  work  of  great  beauty,  which  reminds  one  irresistibly  of  Tudor 
vaulting  a  century  and  a  half  later.  Across  the  lintel  of  the  doorway  is 
an  inscription,  according  to  which  it  was  rebuilt  by  order  of  Muhammad 
an-Nasir,  Sultan  of  Egypt,  and  son  of  Qalaun,  and  under  the  super- 
vision of  the  Emir  Tenkiz  in  737  h.  (a.d.  1336).  The  date  is  somewhat 
defaced,  but  is  confirmed  by  Mujir  ad  Din.  The  lintel  is  composed  of 
three  blocks  with  vertical  joints,  which  causes  the  observer  to  wonder 
why  it  does  not  fall;  but  there  is  no  doubt  that  the  hinder  portions  of 
these  blocks,  although  concealed,  are  wedge-shaped  and,  perhaps,  joggled 
so  as  to  form  a  flat  arch  ;  a  similar  trick  may  be  clearly  seen  in  the  Adeliya 
Madrasa  at  Damascus,  where  the  back  of  the  lintel  is  not  hidden. 

The  booths  at  the  west  end  of  the  bazaar  have  been  reopened  and 
turned  into  workshops,  as  has  already  been  described  in  Section  27,  but 
more  than  half  still  remain  walled  up  (see  Illustrations  17,  18).  Let  us 
hope  they,  too,  will  soon  be  opened. 

69 


MUSLIM    WORK   TOUCHED    BY   THE   SOCIETY 

A  few  words  are  now  needed  as  to  the  Muslim  work  on  the  Citadel, 
the  Roman  and  Crusading  work  having  already  been  referred  to  by 
Pere  Vincent  and  Pere  Abel  in  Sections  57  and  61. 

The  first  known  instance  of  Mohammedan  work  after  the  time  of 
the  Crusaders  is  the  restoration  of  Malik  Muazzam  Isa,  which  is 
recorded  by  an  inscription  at  present  embedded  in  the  inner  wall  of 
the  Citadel  mosque.  It  states  that  a  tower  was  restored  in  610  h. 
(1213/4).  The  mosque  itself  is  dated  710  H.  (13 10),  but  the  minaret 
must  be  much  later.  The  inner  entrance  of  the  Citadel,  with  the  two 
right-angled  turns,  was  dated  710  H.  also,  but  the  inscription  slab  has 
long  since  disappeared.  The  outer  entrance  is  dated  938  h.  (1532)  in 
the  name  of  Sultan  Suleiman,  to  whom  the  beautiful  cartouche  shown  in 
Illustration  79  belongs.  It  was  uncovered  by  the  Society  during  the 
making  of  the  garden. 

K.  A.  C.  Creswell,  M.B.E., 
Late  Inspector  of  Monuments,  G.S.,  O.E.T. 


70 


Appendix    I 

CONSTITUTION  OF  THE  PRO-JERUSALEM  SOCIETY. 

(Now  embodied  in  the  Charter.) 

Object, 

The  object  of  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Society  shall  be  the  preservation 
and  safeguarding  of  the  amenities  of  the  Holy  City  without  favour  or 
prejudice  to  race  or  creed. 

Further  the  Society  shall  be  empowered  to  hold  property  real  or 
personal  in  Trust  and  to  administer  it,  and  such  administration  shall  be 
in  the  interest  of  all  to  whom  the  Holy  City  is  sacred. 

As  a  part  of  this  trusteeship  the  Society  may  from  time  to  time  act 
in  an  advisory  capacity  to  any  public  authority  whose  action  may  affect  it. 

It  shall  be  one  of  the  objects  of  the  Society,  in  view  of  the  above,  to 
give  publicity,  whether  by  bulletin,  writings,  or  newspapers,  to  any 
question  aifecting  the  public  welfare  of  Jerusalem. 

Membership. 

The  Pro-Jerusalem  Society  shall  consist  of  a  Patron,  an  Honorary 
President,  a  President,  an  Honorary  Treasurer,  an  Honorary  Secretary, 
and  a  Council  whose  membership  shall  be  of  such  only  as  have  special 
standing  or  qualifications. 

The  following  shall  be  ex-officio  members  of  the  Council  :  The 
Military  Governor  of  Jerusalem ;  the  Grand  Mufti ;  the  Mayor  of  Jeru- 
salem;  the  Orthodox  Patriarch;  the  Latin  Patriarch;  the  Head  of  the 
Armenian  Convent  in  Jerusalem ;  the  Custode  di  Terra  Santa ;  the  Head 
of  the  Jewish  Community. 

Method  of  Appointment. 

The  appointment  of  members  of  the  Council  shall,  in  the  first  in- 
stance, be  by  the  President.  Membership  to  the  Society  shall  be  of  all 
those  who  subscribe  to  its  funds. 

In  the  event  of  either  a  new  Government  for  Palestine  being  created 
or  of  the  departure  of  the  President  the  constitution  of  the  Society  shall 
be  modified  to  suit  the  altered  circumstances  and  modelled  on  the  lines 
of  the  British  "National  Trust  for  Places  of  Historic  Interest  and  Natural 
Beauty,"  or  any  similar  quasi-public  body  in  France,  Italy,  or  America. 

71 


CONSTITUTION  OF  THE  SOCIETY 

Ownership  of  Property. 

Property,  real  or  personal,  shall  be  held  "in  Trust"  with  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  Society. 

Finance. 

The  Committee  shall  have  an  account  with  the  Anglo-Egyptian 
Bank  in  Jerusalem,  cheques  shall  be  made  payable  to  the  Pro-Jerusalem 
Society,  and  payments  shall  be  made  only  on  the  authority  of  the 
President. 

Rules  of  Procedure. 

Meetings  shall  be  convened  monthly  by  the  Honorary  Secretary,  or 
extraordinary  meetings,  at  the  special  request  given  to  him  in  writing 
by  any  three  members  of  the  Council. 

Five  members,  in  addition  to  the  President,  shall  form  a  quorum. 

Notice  of  the  meeting,  with  minutes  of  the  previous  meeting,  shall 
be  distributed  beforehand. 

First  Membership. 
The  first  membership  of  the  Council  shall  be  as  under,  and  the 
members  shall  serve  for  one  year  certain  from  the  date  of  this  constitu- 
tion, subject,  however,  to  such  modification  as  by  common  consent  may 
be  deemed  advisable  in  the  event  of  any  change  of  Government. 


Appendix    II 

MEMBERS    OF    THE    PRO-JERUSALEM    SOCIETY    AND 
CONTRIBUTORS    SINCE    ITS    INAUGURATION 


1918 


Messrs.  Smouha  &  Co. 
Messrs.  Btesh  Bros.  . . 
Morums  Oriental  Store 
Mr.  Solomon  Angel    .  . 
Cairo  Syrian  Community 
Mr.  Denham  (for  Morton  & 
Haj  Yusuf  Wafa  Al  Dajani 
Messrs.  Marash  Bros. 
American  Colony 


Co.) 


£E.  585 
SCO 
100 

19.  SCO 
400 

10 

10 

H'  375 

2S 


72 


I9I9 


1920 


MEMBERS  OF  THE  SOCIETY 

Dr.  Faris  Nlmr           

£E.     so 

Mr.  Siman  Sidnawy  .  . 

50 

Jerusalem  Municipality 

ISO 

His  Eminence  the  Grand  Mufti 

10 

Anglo-Egyptian  Bank 

100 

Mr.  F.  Levaux 

5 

Messrs.  Buckler 

19.  200 

Mr.  Guini 

21 

Mr.  Hazan 

10 

Messrs.  Bentovia  and  Forer 

25 

Miss  Palmer    . .          . .          

100 

Mr.  Haim  Valero 

200 

Mr.  Isaac  Cohen 

SO 

Mr.  Benjamin  Kokia 

10 

Council  of  Jerusalem  Jews    .  .          

10 

Imperial  Ottoman  Bank 

200 

Credit  Lyonnais  Bank 

SO 

American  Anonymous  donor  (per  Jacob  Spafford) 

9.  870 

Sir  Basil  Zaharoff,  G.C.B.,  G.B.E. 

48s.  62s 

Mr.  Chs.  Hamilton 

194.  250 

Prof.  Patrick  Geddes 

3 

Messrs.  Blum  and  Levy 

25  . 

Anglo-Palestine  Bank 

100 

Banco  di  Roma 

ISO 

Capt.  Hamborough  (for  a  drinking  fountain) 

9.  650 

Council  of  Jerusalem  Jews   .  . 

10 

Council  of  Sephardic  Jews    . . 

10 

Central  Committee  Knesseth  Israel 

10 

Zionist  Commission   . . 

250 

Administration  grant  for  Technical  Education     . 

200 

Administration  grant  for  Tree-planting     . . 

25 

Municipality  of  Jerusalem    . . 

200 

Mrs.     MacQueen    and     Mr.    Macrackan    (Sub 

scription  Dance) 

61.    95 

Mr.  Bruce 

100 

Mr.  Hoffstat 

25 

Mr.  Peterson 

25 

Miss  Carey  Thomas 

10 

K 


73 


MEMBERS  OF  THE  SOCIETY 
Logan  Pearsall  Smith 
Btesh  Bros. 
51st  Sikhs  Regiment 

(For  Repairs  to  the  Mosque  of  Omar) 
The  Rt.  Hon.  Sir  Herbert  Samuel  .  . 
Viscount  Milner 
M.  de  Picciotto 
Dr.  Eder 

H.  M.  Kalvaresky 
Prof.  P.  Geddes 
Mrs.  Elizabeth  McQueen 
Mr.  John  H.  Finley  . . 
Mrs.  Elizabeth  McQueen  (for  seats  in  the  Citadel) 
Mr.  Harris  Cohen  (per  Sir  Herbert  Samuel) 
Anglo-American  Society  (for  seats  in  the  Citadel) 
British  School  of  Archaeology  (per  Prof.  Garstang) 
Miss  Laudau  (for  repairs  to  the  Citadel)  .  . 
Ronald  Storrs  (for  repairs  to  the  Citadel) 
Norman  Bentwich 

Administration  grant  for  Technical  Education 
Municipality  of  Jerusalem    .  . 

„         grant  for  City  Tree-planting 
Rabbi  Horowitz 
Ronald  Storrs 
Canon  Stacey  Waddy 
Dr.  Harte 
Administration  grant  for   Citadel  repairs 

„  „     per  Antiquities  Dept, 

Sir  Abbas  Eflf.  Abd-el-Baha,  K.B.E 
Sir  Alfred  Mond,  Bart. 
Mrs.  Holman  Hunt   . . 
L.  A.  Van  Vriesland  .  . 
Administration  grant  for  1920 
D.  Salameh 
By  Special  Concert    .  . 

Miss  Blandy 

Anglo-Egyptian  Bank 

Miss  Lapin 

Mr.  Hennay  J.  Paten 

74 


£E.  4. 

550 

100 

40 

10 

10. 

2CX3 

25 

2. 

100 

25 

3 

15 

4- 

840 

49 

9- 

750 

15 

30 

10 

20 

5 

300 

200 

250 

5 

20 

S 

5 

SO 

250 

100 

25 

97- 

125 

5 

295 

S 

296. 

Soo 

20 

25 

S 

4- 

250 

Appendix   III 

LIST  OF  THE  SOCIETY'S  NEEDS 

Scholarships  for  the  Society's  weaving  apprentices  to  enable  them 
to  go  to  the  Mehalla  Kebir  weaving  school  in  Egypt  for  one 
year.     For  one  scholarship  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .       £50 

Seats,  in  Palestine  marble  or  other  good  stone,  for  the  Society's 
Parks  and  Gardens.  The  donor's  name  will  be  carved  upon 
the  seat.     Some  twenty  are  needed  at  a  cost  per  seat  of  £20  to  £50 

Seats  in  wood  or  iron,  at  convenient  points  in  the  Rampart  Walk 
or  in  the  gardens.  The  donor's  name  will  be  cut  or  painted 
on  the  seat.     Some  twenty-five  are  wanted ;  to  cost  from  £5  to  £10 

Sections  of  the  Rampart  Walk  to  be  repaired  and  cleaned  together 
with  the  parapet  adjoining.  The  Society  provides  the  stone. 
In  other  words,  "to  repair  the  walls  of  Jerusalem."  The  work 
is  apportioned  in  sections  . .  .  .  .  .at  from  £10  to  £100 

Sections  of  the  Fosse  clearing ;  calculated  for  each  gang  of  women 

working  for  a  month         .  .  .  .  £25 


.     £500 

.  £500 
£1,000 
.£1,000 
.  £500 
■     £500 


For  the  establishment  of  the  Glass  Industry 

For  the  establishment  of  the  Carpet-weaving  Industry 

For  the  establishment  of  Furniture-making  Workshops 

For  the  establishment  of  Metal  Workshops  .  . 

For  the  establishment  of  a  School  of  Ceramics 

For  the  completion  of  the  Suq  el  Qattanin  repairs 

For  repairs  to  the  Citadel,  in  sections  on  its  different  towers,  the 

Tower  of  David,  the  Hippicus,  etc.  In  sections  at  from  £50  to  £1,000 
For  the  starting  of  the  Museum  to  house  the  Society's  collections  £500 
For  the  Jaffa  Gate  improvement  scheme  and  the  removal  of  the 

Turkish  clock  tower  ..  ..  ..  ..  ..  ..£1,000 

Gifts  of  historical  subjects   (Palestine  history)  for  the  Society's 

Museum. 
Gifts   of  examples   of  Arts   and   Crafts,   especially   examples   of 

Oriental  weaving  and  embroidery  for  the  School  of  Textiles. 
Gifts  of  trees  for  the  Parks  and  Gardens. 
Gifts  of  flowers  and  seedlings  for  the  Society's  nursery. 
The  gift  of  a  membership  stamp,  to  be  specially  designed,  and  sent 

upon  letters  dispatched  from  Jerusalem, 


75 


Appendix   IV 

WEAVER'S    APPRENTICESHIP    INDENTURE 

This   Indenture  witnesses   that  M is  this  day  bound 

apprentice  to  Shukri  Batato  of  "  the  Jerusalem  Looms  "  upon  the 

following   terms   parties   to   the   agreement  being   N , 

Father  or  Guardian  of  the  said Shukri  Batato  of  "the 

Jerusalem  Looms  "  Major  Tadman  the  Education  Officer  as   repre- 
senting O.E.T.A.  and  the  President  of  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Society. 

1.  M undertakes  to  serve  the  said  Shukri  Batato  for 

a  period  of  one  year  to  obey  his  order  and  diligently  apply  himself  to 
learning  the  craft  of  weaving.  He  agrees  to  honour  and  obey  the  crafts- 
men with  whom  he  shall  be  placed  during  his  apprenticeship  and  at  all 
times,  in  speech  and  action,  to  bear  himself  towards  them  with  respect. 

2.  N the  Father  or  Guardian  of  the  said  M 

undertakes  to  see  that  his  son  devotes  attention  to  his  work  and  attends 
such  instruction  as  is  arranged  for  by  the  Education  Officer  and  generally 
conform  to  the  terms  of  this  agreement,  also  in  the  event  of  the  cancella- 
tion of  this  agreement  due  to  the  negligence  or  misconduct  of  the  said 

M to  pay  to  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Society  half  of  any  sum  that 

the  Society  shall  have  disbursed  for  him, 

3.  Shukri  Batato  undertakes  to  teach  the  said  M the 

craft  of  weaving  to  arrange  for  him  to  receive  at  the  hours  agreed  to  with 
the  Education  Officer  such  teaching  other  than  weaving  as  may  be  deter- 
mined, further  to  pay  him — 

For  the  first  three  months  a  wage  of  i  pt.  a  day. 
second   ,,  „  ,,        2  pt. 


J» 

>5 

J> 

J> 

>J 

third 

)J 

>> 

M 

5J 

fourth 

»? 

J> 

>> 

5> 


2J/2  pt.    „ 


■y. 
3  pt.    „ 


this  wage  to  be  regarded  as  a  minimum  and  to  be  increased  according  to 

the  skill  and  the  diligence  of  the  said  A'l but  in  case  of  the 

non-observance  of  the  agreement  by  the  said  M or  of  his 

proven  incapacity  the  said  Shukri  Batato  shall  be  free  to  discharge  him 
after  due  notice  given  to  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Society. 

76 


WEAVER'S   INDENTURE 

4.  The  Education  Officer  agrees  to  superintend  the  teaching  other 
than  weaving  and  to  report  from  time  to  time  to  the  Pro-Jerusalem 
Society. 

5.  The  Pro-Jerusalem  Society  agrees  to  act  as  referee  in  case  of  any 
difference  arising  as  to  the  above  and  to  watch  the  interests  of  the  appren- 
tice and  of  the  weaving  industry. 

As  witness  to  which  the  above  parties  have 

set  their  hands  this    

1919. 

M 

N 

The  Education  Officer. 

President  of  the  Pro- Jerusalem  Society. 

"The  Jerusalem  Looms." 


Appendix  V 

PUBLIC  NOTICE.    No.  34. 

No  person  shall  demolish,  erect,  alter,  or  repair  the  structure  of  any 
building  in  the  City  of  Jerusalem  or  its  environs  within  a  radius  of 
2,500  metres  from  the  Damascus  Gate  (Bab-el-Amud)  until  he  has  ob- 
tained a  written  permit  from  the  Military  Governor. 

Any  person  contravening  the  orders  contained  in  this  proclamation, 
or  any  term  or  terms  contained  in  a  licence  issued  to  him  under  this 
proclamation,  will  be  liable  upon  conviction  to  a  fine  not  exceeding 
£E.20o. 

R.  Storrs,  Colonel, 

Military  Governor. 
Jerusalem,  8th  April  igi8. 


n 


Appendix   VI 

ANTIQUITIES  PROCLAMATION 

Whereas  it  is  convenient  to  make  provision  for  the  conservation 
of  ancient  monuments  and  for  the  preservation  of  ancient  objects  of 
virtu  and  relics  movable  and  immovable  (hereinafter  styled  "Antiqui- 
ties") in  the  Occupied  Enemy  Territory  (South): 

Now  THEREFORE  I,  MaJOR-GeNERAL  SiR  ArTHUR  WiGRAM  MoNEY, 

in  exercise  of  the  powers  conferred  upon  me  as  Chief  Administrator  of 
Occupied  Enemy  Territory  (South)  by  warrants  dated  24th  April  and 
29th  October  191 8,  under  the  hand  of  the  General  Officer  Commanding- 
in-Chief  the  Egyptian  Expeditionary  Force, 

HEREBY   ORDER   AS   FOLLOWS  : — 

1.  Throughout  the  Occupied  Enemy  Territory  (South)  the  property 
in  all  antiquities  which  were  the  property  of  the  Ottoman  Government  or 
which  have  been  discovered  since  the  Occupation  or  shall  hereafter  be 
discovered  shall  be  deemed  to  be  vested  in  the  Occupied  Enemy  Territory 
Administration  (South). 

2.  The  term  "ancient"  for  the  purpose  of  this  Proclamation  shall  be 
deemed  to  signify  antecedent  to  the  year  1600  c.e. 

3.  No  alteration,  restoration,  movement,  or  disposal  of  any  anti- 
quity or  of  any  site  of  religious  interest  whether  in  public,  private,  or 
ecclesiastical  custody  may  be  made  without  the  previous  consent  of  the 
Occupied  Enemy  Territory  Administration  (South). 

4.  Any  person  who  discovers  an  antiquity  or  who  is  aware  of  the 
discovery  of  an  antiquity  shall  inform  the  Military  Governor  of  the 
district  within  a  period  of  30  days. 

5.  No  person  who  discovers  an  antiquity  either  on  his  own  land  or  on 
the  land  of  another  may  appropriate  it  to  his  own  use  or  to  the  use  of  any 
public,  private,  or  ecclesiastical  body  without  the  consent  of  the  Occupied 
Enemy  Territory  Administration  (South). 

6.  No  person  may  negligently  or  maliciously  destroy,  deface,  or  in 
any  way  damage  any  ancient  monument  or  any  site  which  he  has  reason 
to  believe  to  contain  an  antiquity  or  which  is  reputed  to  be  of  religious 
interest. 

78 


ANTIQUITIES  PROCLAMATION 

7.  No  person  shall  traffic  or  abet  the  traffic  in  antiquities  except 
under  licence  issued  by  the  Occupied  Enemy  Territory  Administration 
(South). 

8.  Any  person  who  knowingly  disobeys  any  direction  of  this  Pro- 
clamation shall  be  punishable  on  conviction  by  either  a  Civil  or  Military 
Court  with  imprisonment  for  a  term  which  may  extend  to  one  year  or 
with  a  fine  which  may  extend  to  £E.5oo  or  with  both.  Any  antiquities 
found  with  the  person  convicted  or  disposed  of  in  contravention  of  the 
terms  of  this  Proclamation  and  any  property  implicated  may  be  con- 
fiscated. 

9.  Any  person  who  reports  the  discovery  of  an  antiquity  over  which 
the  Administration  decides  to  exercise  its  right  of  property  shall  be  duly 
compensated,  and  when  any  such  antiquity  is  relinquished  by  the  Adminis- 
tration the  Administration  shall  deliver  the  said  antiquity  to  the  person 
or  corporation  appearing  to  have  the  most  proper  claim  thereto,  together 
with  a  certificate  authorizing  the  said  antiquity  to  be  transferred  in 
accordance  with  the  terms  of  this  Proclamation. 

10.  The  powers  vested  in  the  Administration  under  this  Proclama- 
tion together  with  power  to  perform  all  necessary  acts  subsidiary  thereto 
are  hereby  delegated  to  the  Chief  Administrator  or  such  person  or  persons 
as  he  may  appoint  to  act  on  his  behalf. 

11.  The  provisions  of  this  Proclamation  shall  be  substituted,  so  far 
as  they  apply,  for  the  provisions  of  the  Ottoman  Law  of  Antiquities  of 
loth  April  1322  H.  throughout  the  whole  of  the  Occupied  Enemy  Territory 
(South)  but  all  the  provisions  of  the  law  shall  be  deemed  to  have  been  in 
force  up  to  the  date  of  this  Proclamation. 

(Sgd.)     A.  W.  Money,  Major-General, 
Chief  Administrator. 
Headquarters, 

O.E.T.A.  (South) 
Jerusalem,  i  December  1918. 


79 


Appendix   VII 

ADVERTISEMENTS  ORDINANCE 

1.  Save  as  hereinafter  provided,  no  advertisement  shall  be  exhibited 
upon  any  hoarding  or  similar  structure,  or  on  any  wall,  tree,  fence,  gate, 
or  elsewhere  in  Palestine. 

2.  In  a  town  area  the  Municipality  with  the  consent  of  the  District 
Governor,  and  elsewhere  the  District  Governor,  may  authorize  the 
erection  in  specified  places  of  one  or  more  boards  or  hoardings  for  the 
exhibition  of  notices  and  advertisements. 

3.  Any  person  may  exhibit  upon  his  own  premises  advertisements 
relating  to  the  business  or  occupation  carried  on  in  those  premises. 

4. — (i)  In  a  town  area  the  Municipality  with  the  consent  of  the 
District  Governor,  and  elsewhere  the  District  Governor,  may  make  by- 
laws under  this  Ordinance  {a)  for  levying  a  charge  upon  the  exhibition 
of  notices  and  advertisements  exhibited  in  accordance  with  Section  2  of 
this  Ordinance ;  {b)  for  regulating  the  size  and  form  of  notices  and  adver- 
tisements exhibited  in  accordance  with  Section  2  or  Section  3  of  this 
Ordinance.  (2)  Such  by-laws  shall  be  submitted  for  the  consent  of 
the  High  Commissioner,  and  shall  not  be  valid  without  his  consent. 

5.  Nothing  in  this  Ordinance  shall  apply  to  notices  or  advertise- 
ments exhibited  by  any  Department  of  the  Government  of  Palestine,  or 
by  any  Military  or  Naval  or  Air  Force  Authority,  or  by  any  Judicial 
Authority,  or  by  any  Local  Authority. 

6.  Any  person  committing  a  contravention  of  the  provisions  of  this 
Ordinance  or  of  any  by-laws  issued  thereunder  by  a  Alunicipality  or 
District  Governor  shall  be  liable  to  the  penalties  prescribed  by  the 
3rd  Addendum  of  Art.  99  of  the  Ottoman  Penal  Code,  and  further  to  a 
continuing  penalty  of  £E.i  for  every  day  during  which  the  offence  is 
continued  after  his  conviction. 

If  any  person  after  conviction  fails  to  remove  any  structure  erected 
or  any  advertisement  exhibited  in  contravention  of  this  Ordinance,  the 
Police  shall  be  entitled  to  remove  it  at  his  expense.  The  Court  may 
award  an  amount  not  exceeding  one-half  of  the  fine  imposed  to  any 
person  giving  information  which  leads  to  a  conviction. 

7.  This  law  shall  come  into  force  on  the  ist  day  of  November  1920. 

(Sgd.)     Herbert  Samuel, 
High  Commissioner  for  Palestine. 
Government  House,  Jerusalem. 
20-7-20. 

80 


INDEX 


PAGE 


PAGE 


Ab  (month  of) 

44 

Ashkenazim 

54 

AbdelMalek 

67,68 

'Attarin  (Suq  el),  ///.  13-16    . 

■  6,63,64,65 

Abel  (Pere)        

S3,  66,  70 

Avenues             

24 

Absalom  (Tomb  of) 

53,54 

Abu  Liya  Wakf,  ///.  lo 

4,  5,  58 

Adeliya  Madrasa 

..       69 

Adiabene  (Helen  of)     . . 

50,51 

B 

Advertisement  (regulation  of) 

37,80 

Aelia  Capitolina 

56,  57,  68 

Bachourah         

..       64 

Air  Force  (Royal) 

13,80 

Baldwin  IV 

..       62 

Aleppo    . . 

..       69 

Bangles 

33 

Allenby  (Lord) 

V,  21,57 

Bar-Kokeba 

.         ..       56 

Almond  .  . 

21 

Batato  (Shukri) 

.         ..       76 

Amaury  I           

..       62 

Bath  of  the  Patriarch  . . 

IS,  16,  17 

American  Colony 

13,46 

Baths.     See  Hammam. 

„       Red  Cross 

..       30 

Batrak  (Hammam  el)  . . 

15,  16,  17 

Amud  (Bab  el).    See  Damascus  Gate. 

Bazaars  . .         . .                 61, 

63,  64,  65,  69 

Anglo-Egyptian  Bank 

••       72 

Beads      

33 

Anne  (St.)          

61,  64,  6s 

Ben  Sirach.     See  Sirach. 

Antiquities                                  .  .v, 

16,  18,  78 

Beni  Hezir         

••       54 

„        (Department  of)  . . 

18 

Bentwich  (Mrs.  Norman) 

4 

Apprentices,  ///.  62,  63 

35,  36,  76 

Bethlehem,  ///.  42 

62 

Aqsa  Mosque,  ///.  39    .  .          . .  9 

20,  22,  68 

Bezaleel 

■•       33 

Arab  Conquest 

..       56 

Bezetha 

20 

Arcades,  ///.  j8,  55                 .  .  7, 

17,  58,  69 

Birket  Israel 

20 

Archaeology        14,  15,  16,  18,  37, 

56,  57,  58 

„      Sitt  Miriam 

20 

61,  64 

„      Hammam  el  Batrak    . 

.         ..       63 

Arcosolia 

50,55 

Bliss  (Dr.  F.  J.) 

IS,  59,  60 

Armenian  Convent 

20,  22 

Blizzard  of  1920           . .       6, 

16,  22,  28,  45 

Armenians                  Ij  20,  22,  30, 

31,  62,  71 

Booths    

7 

Asali(Eff.)         

5 

British  occupation 

..  I,  10 

Ascalon  .  . 

61 

„      administration         26, 

31,32,35,42 

Ascension  (Chapel  of  the) 

55 

Burial-places 

23 

Ashbee,  C.  R.,  ///.  /,  10,  25 

Burnet  (Sir  John) 

21 

vi,  3,  5,  7.  25,  42, 

46,  58,  59 

Butchers            

.         ..      63 

81 


INDEX 


y^  PAGE 

Cafes 17 

Candle-makers  .  .          . .          .  .          ■  •  65 

Captivity  (the)              S3 

Carcasonne        .  .          . .                      •  ■  21 

Carpenter's  work,  ///.  6j  34 

Cedron.     See  Kedron. 

Cement  .  .          .  .          . .          .  .          .  .  9 

Cemeteries                                             .  .  24 

Ceramics  (School  of)    .  .          .  .          .  .  75 

Chamber  of  Commerce  (Jerusalem)  .  .  37 

Charter  of  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Society  vi,  vii 

Chateaubriand  .  .          . .          .  .             SO,  54 


Chester  .  . 

Chief  Administrator 

Chosroes  II 

Christian  Street 

Chronicles  (Book  of) 

Church  Fathers 

Churches 

Citadel,  ///.  2,  j,  67,  68 


21 

V,  IS,  79 

68 

IS,  17,63 

54 
44 
20 
I,  2,  21,  39,  41, 


57,  61,  63,  69,  70,  7S 
„  Gardens,  ///.  i  (Frontispiece), 

28,29,30,31  19,21,22,41 

City  Council  38 

„     Survey 41 

See  also  Town  Plan. 
Civic  Advisor  vi,  6,  14,  37,  4s,  48,  S2, 

54,  59 
,,     Regulations  37 

Civil  government          .  .          .  .  v,  16 

Clermont-Ganneau                   .  .  53,  64 

Clock  tower  (Turkish),  ///.  40,  44  62 

Commander-in-Chief    .  .  vi 

Conduits                         .  .          . .  .  .       60 

Constantini  (Abraham  el)       . .  .  .       45 

Constantinople              . .          ,  .  .  .       32 

Constitution  of  tlu-.  Pro-Jerusalem  Society  71 

Cook-shops        64,  65 


68 
6S 
37 


Cordova 

Cordwainers 

Corrugated  iron 

Cotton  Market.     See  Qattaniii. 

Council  of  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Society 

^  .  ,  'fv,  14,  16,  37,  38,  65 

Creche    . .  . .  _        ^n 

82 


PAGE 


Creswell  (K.  A.  C)       .  . 

Crusades 

Custode  di  Terra  Santa 

Cypress  . . 


D 

Dabbaghin  (Haret  ed-) 
Dabbet  er  Rische  Park 
Damascus 

Damascus  Gate,  ///.  7. .   2,  4,  20, 
Daniel,  Abbot    .  . 
Daoud  Prince  de  Kerak 
David  Street  IS,  20, 

„      (Tower  of),  Frontispiece 

44,  45, 
,,  (Tomb  of) 
David's  Gate  . . 
Derbas  (Sheikh) 
Dickie  (A.  C.)  .  . 
Djamia  Mawlana 
Dome  of  the  Rock  i.  8,  9, 


Dome  Construction,  ///.  64 
Drapers  . . 
Dung 
Dyeing    .  . 

E 

Earthquake 

East  London  Apprenticeship  Fund 

Ecclesiasticus    . . 

Education  . .  . .  vii,  3s,  36. 

Effendism 

Efftikhar  Ed-Dauleh    . . 

El'azar 

Encroachments,  ///.  34,  36,  37 

Estranghelo 

Etienne  (Ecole  biblique  de  Saint-) 

Ettinger,  Dr.     . . 

Eucalyptus 

Eudocia  (Empress) 

Excavation 

Exodus  . . 


8,  30,  70 

61,  68,  70 

71 

21 


..   64 

24,  46,  47 
32,69 

SO,  63,  77 
62 
61 

26,  28,  29 

61,  62,  7S 

45 

4,  22,  63 

61 

IS,  59,  60 
6i 

20,31,32, 
41,  57,67 

64,65 

4,38 

7 


68 
35 
49 
41,  76 

34 
61 

53 
3 

50 
59,66 

24 
21 
60,  64 
i6 
43 


INDEX 


Ficus  indica 
Fig 

Finance  .  . 
Florence  (Pilgrim  of) 
Flour-mill,  ///.  57 
Fosse,  ///.  /,  5,  27,  31, 
Fountains 
Furniture-making 
Furriers  .  . 


40,41 


PAGE 

38 

21 

41,72 

49 
30 
21,  75 
27 
75 
65 


G 

Galleries  (Art)  .  .  . .  . .  . .       vii 

Gardens,  ///.  /  (Frontispiece),  28-31,  37 

vii,  I,  2,  17,  19,  24,  29,  35,  41,  48,  70,  7S 
Garnier  de  Gray  .  .  .  .  . .       62 

Gates,  ///.  7,  8,  27,  40-45        2,  3,  4,  20,  22, 
23,  43.  SO,  S7>  58,  61,  62,  63,  64 
Geddes  (Prof.  Patrick),  ///.  22 

12,  13,  19,  23 
German  Architects 

„        Mapping 
Gethsemane 
Ghetto    .  . 
Girl  Guides 
Glacis 

Glass-work,  ///.  5p,  60,  61 
Godfrey  de  Bouillon 
Goldsmiths 
Goleil 
Governor  of  Jerusalem 


12,  29 
13 

52,  55 
•■  4,5 
..       40 

2 

7,  30,  32,  75 
19,68 
..       65 
SO 
V,  vi,  vii,  2,  4,  10, 


14,  31,  35,  36,41,42,71,  77 
Governorate  .  .  18,  38 

Graeco-Roman  remains,  ///.  70 

5,  15,  24,44,  56,  57,  58,  68,70 
Grand  Mufti  of  Jerusalem      .  .  9,  18,  36,  71 
Guard-houses     .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .     2,  3 

Guild  of  Handicraft  . .  35 

Guini      . .  . .  . .         . .  . .  6,  12 


H 


Hadrian 
Haggai 


56,68 
•       55 


Hairdressers 
Hamberg  (Victor) 
Hammam  el  Batrak 
Hammam-es-Shaffei 
Hammam,  Hammamat 
Haram    .  . 
Harari  (R.  A.) 
Harkavy  (V.  A.) 
Hasmoneans  (The) 
Hebron,  ///.  59,  60,  61 
Helena  (Empress) 
Herodian  work,  ///.  70 


7,31 


IS, 


PAGE 

65 

12 

17,63 

7 

7,  15,  17,63 

57,  63,  68,  69 

41 
45 

51 

32,  33 

64 

43,45,  51,  52, 
56,  57,  58,  61 
•  4,  20,  24,  35 
•       44 


Herod's  Gate     . . 
„         Palace  .  . 
Hezekiah  (Pool  of)        .  .  .  .  .  .        20 

High  Commissioner      .  .  .  .  vi,  80 

Hippicus  Tower,  ///.  /  {Frontispiece)  23,  75 
Historic  monuments  (Register  of)  .  .  18 
Holy  City  v,  vi,  vii,  4,  10,  12,  16,  18, 

19,  26,  38,  41,42,  45,  59,  61,  71 


Holy  Sepulchre  (Church  of) 

Honiah    .  . 

Hospitals 

Hospitallers 

Huldah  the  prophetess 


20,  61,  63, 
64,  65,  66 

54 
22 

26,66 
■•       55 


I 

Idrisi  .  .  . .       68 

Indentures  of  apprenticeship,  ///.  63     35,  76 
Industries  (new)  . .  .  .  30,  33 

Isaac  . .  . .  •  ■       67 

Isaiah 52 

Islam 9,  33 


Jackaranda  .  ,  . .  21 

Jaffa  Gate,  ///.  40,  41,  42,  43,  44,  45 

4,  IS,  20,  21,  23,  57,62,63,75 
Jaffa  Road         24,  27 

83 


INDEX 


James  (St.) 
Jedid  (Bab  el)   . . 
Jehoshaphat 
Jehouda  ha-hassid 
Jemal  Pasha 
Jerome  (St.) 
Jerusalem 

„  looms 

(New) 
Jewellers 
Jewry      . . 

Jews        ..  13,22. 

John  (St.) 
Josephus 
Judah  (Kings  of) 
Judith  (the  Abbess) 


40,43 


PAGE 

S3,  61 
20 
SI,  53,  54,  66 

54 
..  I,  12 

44 

II.  19,21,35 

30 

8,  II,  23,  26 

..       63 

13 

44,  49,  54,  71 

29,  66 

44,45 
..  so 
..       64 


K 

Kaiser  Wilhelm  II 

"  Kaiser's  Breach,"  ///.  40 

Kalba  Shaboua  (grotto  of) 

Kalonymos 

Karaites 

Katanin.     See  Qattanln. 

Kaza  of  Jerusalem 

Kedron   .  . 

Kerak 

Khalifs 

Khalil  (Bab  el) 

Khan  ez  Zeit 

Khanqah  Salahiyeh 

Khans 

Kings,  Tombs  of  the.     See  Tombs. 

Kitchens 

Knights  Hospitallers    .  . 

Knights  Templars 

Kobour  el  Koudat 

Kobour  el  Molouk 

Kochim  . . 

Kokhim  . . 

Koran 

Kotel  ha-Ma'arabi 

84 


29, 


•  23 

•  SI 
54 
51 

16 
52 
61 

32 
20 

•  6s 

•  63 
61,65 

64,65 

26 

.       68 

•  SI 

•  50 

•  SO 

•  SS 
33 

•  43 


Kubbet  es  Sakhrah. 
Kutahia 


PACE 

See  Dome  of  the  Rock. 
32 


Labour  difficulties 

19 

„       (methods  of)    . . 

22 

„       (bureau) 

..         40 

Lag-Ba'omer 

•       49 

Latin  Kingdom 

..       s6 

Latrines 

17,  21 

Lazare  (St.) 

62 

Leprosy 

62 

Libraries 

vii 

London  . . 

10 

Looms,  ///.  62,  63 

30,  7(> 

Louvre  (Musee  du) 

SO 

Luncz  (A.  M.) 

SI 

M 

McLean, ///.  27  12,23 

Macrae  (Lady  Margaret)        . .  24 

Mahanna  Yudah  Market        . .  26,  27 

Mahdl  (Al)        68 

Malachi  . .  . .         . .  . .       55 

Malcuisinat  . .  . .  65 

Malek-en-Naser  . .  61 

Malik  Muazzam  Isa  . .  . .       70 

Mamoun  (El) 67 

Mansur  (Al) 68 

Markets,  ///.  43   15,  22,  26, 27,  28,  29,  37,  65 
Masonry,  ///.  69,70     ..         ..      45,  58,  59 

Mathieson  (T.  B.)        21 

Mauristan,  ///.  55        . .         . .       26,  33,  65 
Mayor  of  Jerusalem     . .  18,  71 

Mecca  . .  9 

Mehalla  Kebir 75 

Melissende  (Queen)  . .  62, 64 

Metalwork         33 

Military  Administration          . .         . .       18 
Mimosa  . .                                . .  21 

Minarets,  Frontispiece             . .  21,  46 

Mishna  (The) 44 


INDEX 


Moghrebins  (porte  des) 

43,6s 

Mohammed       

•  9.67 

Monebozes 

SI 

Money  (Sir  A.  W.) 

79 

Money-changers 

64,65 

Montagu  (Samuel) 

35 

"  Monuments  historiques  "       i8 

37, 

41,42 

Morris  (William) 

vi 

Mosaic    . . 

9 

Mosques,  Frontispiece,  III.  3Q 

9, 

10,  20, 

22,61 

68 

69,70 

Mufti  (Dar  el) 

49 

Muhammad  an-Nasir,  ///.  57  .  . 

■       69 

Mujir  ad  Din 

64,69 

Municipality  of  Jerusalem        16, 

18, 

26,  37, 

38 

40,80 

Muqaddasi         

68 

Museums           

vii 

41,75 

N 


Nasir  (Muhammad  an-), 

///. 

S7        ..69 

Nasiri  Khosrau 

. .       68 

Naskh 

•  .       ■.•       ^ 

National  Trust  for  places  oi 

Historic 

Interest 

71 

Nebi  Da-ud  (Bab  en) 

•  •      20,  45,  58 

„     (Waly) 

61 

Nebi  Samuel 

46,  SI 

New  Gate 

20 

Nur  ad  Din 

. .       69 

Nuremberg 

21 

O.E.T.A. 

70,  76,  78,  79 

Ohanessian  (David) 

8,32 

Olive 

21,  48 

Olives  (Mount  of) 

•      52,  54,  55 

Omar  (Khalif)   .  . 

68 

Orphanage 

33 

Ottoman  Penal  Code   . 

80 

Palatium 

Palestine 

Palestine  Exploration  Fund 

Palestine  Survey 

Park  system  of  Jerusalem 


PAGE 
.  ..  69 

34.  71,  80 

59 

. .  8,  28 

vii,  2,  15,  19, 


21,  22,  24,41,  46,  48,  75 


15,63 
21 

51 

63,  6s 

.         ..       64 

••       53 

••       44 

19,  24,  30,  35 

5,41,58 

. .  4,  80 

20 

20,  63 

24,25 

32 

39 

V,  15,  78 


Patriarch  (Bath  of) 

Pepper-tree 

Pereira    .  . 

Perfumers 

Persian  Conquest 

Pharisees 

Phazael  (Tower  of) 

Plantations 

Playgrounds,  ///.  10     .  . 

Police 

Pool  of  Hezekiah 

Pools 

Post  Office  Square,  ///.  47,  48 

Potters,  ///.  5<y 

Prison  Labour,  ///.  68  . . 

Proclamations    .  . 

Pro-Jerusalem  Society  v,  vi,  vii,  i,  2,  5, 
6,  14,  16,  18,  21,  30,  31,  32,  35,  37,  38, 
40,  41,  42,  56,  57,  59,  61,  63,  67,  70, 
71,  72,  76 

Prophet  (the) 9 

Prophets  (the) 55 

Public  Health  (Department  of)      vii,  26,  37 

Public  Notices v,  14,  77 


Qalaah.     See  Citadel; 

Qalaun    .  .  69 

Qattanin  (Suq   el),  ///.  12,  18,  56,  57,  78 

I,  6,  7,  8,  30,  33,  35,  36, 

41,69,75 

Quarries  . .         ■  •  22 


R 

R.A.F.     See  Air  Force. 
Rabbi  Obadia  de  Bartanora 
Rahbeh  (Bab  er-) 
Ramparts 


S3 
64 

22,  58,  61 

85 


INDEX 


PAGE 

Rampart  Walk,  Frontispiece,  III.  52, 33, 34, 

35,  36,  37,  3S,  39  I.  2,  3,  i9,  20,  21, 
23,39,41,42,58 
Rashidia  School  24,  35 

Raymond  of  Toulouse  .  .       61 

Red  Cross  (American)  .  .  . .       30 

Refugees  .  .  .  .       39 

Registration  of  monuments     .  .  41 

{See  also  "  Monuments  historiques  ") 


Relief  labour,  ///.  6y 
Rephaim 

Richmond  (Ernest) 
Robinson's  Arch 

"Palestine" 
Rock.     See  Dome  of  the 

,,        Tombs  .  . 
Roman  staircase 

,,       roads     . . 

,,       camp 
Russian  Church 


39 

52 

6,8,  10,31,  57,  68 

43 
. .       50 

24,  46,  47 

■•      15,59,60 

..       16 

. .       58 

••       55 


Sadda  (Queen)  .  . 
St.  Stephen's  Gate,  111.8 
„  Street     . . 

Saladin    .  . 

Salt  (Es)  

Samuel  (Sir  Herbert)   . . 

Sanhedrin  (Great) 

Sanitation  .  .  . .  .  .       37, 

Saulcy  (M.  de) 

Scandal  (Mount  of) 

Seats 

Sebekh    . . 

Sephardim 

Sepulchre  (St.).     See  Holy  Sepulchre 

Shabouoth  (fete  de) 

Shimeon 

Shops 

Sibil        

Sidonia  (Queen) 

Siloam  ..     15,43.52,53.54. 

Silsileh  (Bab  es-) 

86 


50.51 
4.66 

65 

65,69 

I 

vi,  80 

51 

46,57 

49,50 

52,54 

25 

24 

54 

45 

54 

17,  29 

27 

50,51 
59,60 
61,65 


Simon  the  Just 

Sion  Gate.     See  Zion. 

Sirach  (Jesus  son  of) 

Slaughterhouse 

Slousch  (Dr.  Nahum) 

Social  work 

Sorbonne 

Spanish  Jews 

Spinning 

Stairways 

Stonework 

Storrs  (Ronald) 

Subscribers  to  Pro-Jerusalem 

Suleiman  the  Magnificent,  ///.  3S,  79 

Sumac 

Suq  el  Qattanin.    See  Qattanln. 
„       'Attarin.     See  'Attarin. 
,,       Lehan    .  .  .  .       29 

,,       Lahhamin        .  .  . .  . .       63 

„       Khawajat  63 

Suqs,  ///.  56,  37,  78       I,  6,  7,  8,  15,  16,  29, 
30,  33,  35,  36,  41,  63,  64,  65,  66,  69,  75 

Swaythling  (Lord)         .  .  .  .  35,  36 

Syria  . .  . .  . .  62, 69 

Syrian  Orphanage  . .  . .       33 


PAGE 

45,49,  51 

..       49 

..       6s 

■■       55 
39,40 

••       55 
22 

■  ■  7,  30 

IS,  21,59,60 

IS 
V,  vii,  10,  38,  41,  77 
72 
70 
21 


Table-service 
Tadman  (Major) 
Tailors    . . 
Talmud  .  . 
Talmud  Thorah 
Technical  Education 


35, 


33 
76 

65 

44,49 

5 

36,41 

66,68 


Temple  (Abbey  or  Church  of  the) 

Temple  and  Temple  area  22,  43,  44,  52, 

53,  56,  57,  58,  68,  69 

Tenkiz  (Emir)   . .  .  .  .  .  69 


Terraces 

Textiles  (School  of) 
Thomas  (St.) 
Tiles,Tilework   .  . 
Tillage    .  . 


.  .   2,  21 

75 
..       62 

9,  30,  37 
24 


INDEX 


Tishre 

Titus,  ///.  21 

Tombs,  ///.  25,  7/         23,  24, 

Tower  (Village  of) 

Town  Plan,  ///.  2/,  22,  25    1 1 

Transport 

Trees  . .  . .      19 

Trumpet-tree 

Tudela  (Benjamin  of)  .  . 

Turkish  administration  i 

22,  23>  30. 
TyropsEum 


PAGE 

49 
19,  56 

45,  46,  47,  49, 

SI,  52,  54,  55 

55 

13,  14,41,  52 

..       19 

21,  24,  30,  35 

21 

44,  45 
,  2,  13,  16,  19, 

39,  44,  55,  56 
•      20,  43,  59 


u 

Uzziah  (King)    . .  . .  . .  . .       53 


Valero  (Haim)   .  .  . .  . .  26,  27 

Vaults,  Vaulting,  ///.  J2,  /j,  14,  /j,  16,  18 

6,7 
Vegetable  market         . .         . .  28,  29 

Vincent  (Pere),  ///.  73 

5,  6,  IS,  47,  48,  53,  59,  70 
Virgin  (Tomb  of  the)  .  .          .  .  61 

"  Viri  Galilei  " 52 


W  PAGE 

Wady  Joz,  ///.  73  ..  ..  46,  47 

„    (Quartier  d'el) 66 

Wailing  Wall,  ///.  6q,  70  .  .  43,  44 

Wakf(Ouaqf)    ..  4,5,8,31,32,58,63 

Walls  of  Jerusalem,  ///.  ^5,  6g,  70   42,  43,  60 


Walys 
Water  (laying  on  of) 
Weaving,  ///.  6a 
Whiting  (John) 
Wilson's  Arch     .  . 
Window,  ///.  II. 


Yaqoubiyeh  (el) 

Yehoudah 

Yellin  (David) 

Yo'azar  .  . 

Yohanan 

Yoma 

Yudah.     See  Mahanna. 


Zechariah 
Zion 

„  Gate 

„St.  ..  .. 

Zionist  Commission 

„      University 
Zones  and  Zoning 


61 

19,  57,  60,  62 

31,  35,  36,  41,  75 
41 

■  •       43 


61 

54 
24 

54 
54 
49 


49,  53,  54 

•  1,45 
4,  20,  63 

66 

•  4,  '9 

13 
13 


87 


6 


JERUSALEM 

1920— 1922 


All  Rights  Reserved 


Masom  at  u-ork  on  the  Kast  Tou-er  oj  the  Citadel. 


No.     22. 


JERUSALEM 

1920— 1922 

Being  the   Records  of  the   Pro-Jerusalem 

Council  during  the   First   Two    Years    of 

the  Civil   Administration 


EDITED    FOR   THE   COUNCIL   OF   THE   PRO-JERUSALEM   SOCIETY 
BY  C.  R.  ASHBEE,  M.A. 

FELLOW    OF   THE   ROYAL   INSTITUTE    OF   BRITISH   ARCHITECTS 
SOMETIME    CIVIC    ADVISER   TO    THE   CITY    OF   JERUSALEM 


WITH    A    PREFACE 
BY   SIR   RONALD   STORRS 

GOVERNOR    OF   JERUSALEM 
PRESIDENT    OF    THE    PRO-JERUSALEM   SOCIETY 


LONDON 
JOHN    MURRAY,   ALBEMARLE   STREET,  W. 

Published  for 

THE   COUNCIL   OF   THE   PRO-JERUSALEM    SOCIETY 

1924 


Printed  in  Great  Britain  by 
HazM,  IValson  &  Viney,  Ld.,  London  and  Aylesbury. 


PREFACE 

ALTHOUGH  the  Second  Volume  of  the  Records  of  the  Pro- 
Jerusalem  Society  does  not  strictly  include  more  than  the 
years  1920-22, 1  propose  in  this  Preface  to  offer  for  the  informa- 
tion of  members  and  of  the  public  a  very  brief  review  of  its  activities 
up  to  the  date  of  writing. 

As  stated  in  the  Preface  to  the  First  Volume,  "  there  were,  and 
always  will  remain,  many  aspects  of  civic  life,  more  especially  in  this 
unique  city,  in  which  no  Military  Administration,  no  Civil  Govern- 
ment even,  could,  without  thwarting  civic  and  individual  effort, 
occupy  itself,  however  sympathetically  inclined." 

"  The  objects  of  the  Society,  as  defined  in  the  Charter,  are  the 
preservation  and  advancement  of  the  interests  of  Jerusalem,  its  district 
and  inhabitants,  more  especially  : 

"  I.  The  protection  of  and  the  addition  to  the  amenities  of 
Jerusalem  and  its  District. 

"  2.  The  provision  and  maintenance  of  parks,  gardens,  and  open 
spaces  in  Jerusalem  and  its  District. 

"  3.  The  establishment  in  the  District  of  Jerusalem  of  Museums, 
Libraries,  Art  Galleries,  Exhibitions,  Musical  and  Dramatic 
Centres,  or  other  institutions  of  a  similar  nature  for  the 
benefit  of  the  public. 

'*  4.  The  protection  and  preservation,  with  the  consent  of  the 
Government,  of  the  Antiquities  in  the  District  of  Jerusalem. 

"  5.  The  encouragement  in  the  District  of  Jerusalem  of  arts, 
handicrafts,  and  industries  in  consonance  with  the  general 
objects  of  the  Society. 

"  6.  The  administration  of  any  immovable  property  in  the  District 
of  Jerusalem  which  is  acquired  by  the  Society  or  entrusted 
to  it  by  any  person  or  corporation  with  a  view  to  securing 
the  improvement  of  the  property  and  the  welfare  of  its 
tenants  or  occupants. 

"  7.  To  co-operate  with  the  Departments  of  Education,  Agricul- 
ture, Public  Health,  Public  Works,  so  far  as  may  be  in 
harmony  with  the  general  objects  of  the  Society." 

V 


PREFACE 

It  being  clearly  impossible  for  a  Governor,  military  or  civil,  to 
superintend,  still  less  to  carry  out  in  detail  the  execution  of  this  highly 
technical  programme,  I  requested  Mr,  C.  R.  Ashbee,  then  in  Cairo, 
to  visit  Jerusalem  and  to  report  upon  its  possibilities  in  this  respect. 
After  perusal  of  his  interesting  and  highly  suggestive  report,  I  offered 
to  him,  and  he  accepted,  the  post  of  Civic  Adviser,  which  included 
that  of  Secretary  to  the  Society.  Mr.  Ashbee  began  work  at  once, 
and  for  nearly  four  years  rendered  loyal  and  excellent  service  to  Pro- 
Jerusalem.  The  weaving  and  tile-making  industries  were  established, 
and  the  Rampart  Walk  round  the  walls  was  cleared  and  restored. 

Mr.  Ashbee  retired  in  1922,  and  was  succeeded  by  Mr.  A.  C. 
Holliday,  the  present  Civic  Adviser.  Since  that  date  several  works 
and  projects  of  works  have  to  be  reported.  Special  efforts  have  been 
made  to  improve  the  condition  of  the  Citadel.  Many  minor  repairs 
have  been  executed  on  the  crenellated  and  parapet  walls,  and  repairs 
to  the  South  Tower  are  actually  in  progress.  Designs  have  been 
prepared  for  a  stone  bridge  at  the  entrance  of  the  Citadel.  The 
Turkish  barrack  buildings  within  the  courtyard  are  in  process  of 
removal,  and  over  6,000  cubic  metres  of  buildings  and  stone  have 
already  been  dug  up  and  carted  away. 

The  clock  tower  erected  by  the  loyal  burgesses  of  Jerusalem,  in 
a  style  midway  between  that  of  the  Eddystone  lighthouse  and  a  jubilee 
memorial  to  commemorate  the  thirty-third  year  of  the  auspicious 
reign  of  the  late  Sultan  Abdul  Hamid,  has  been  bodily  removed  from 
the  north  side  of  the  Jaffa  Gate,  which  it  too  long  disfigured,  and  is 
being  set  up  again  in  fulfilment  of  a  promise  (less  aggressively  and 
shorn  of  its  more  offensive  trimmings)  in  the  central  and  suitable 
neighbourhood  of  the  Post  Office  Square. 

Stricter  measures  are  being  enforced  for  the  preservation  of  the 
traditional  building  style  of  Jerusalem,  offensive  and  unsuitable 
materials  are  being  prohibited  or  removed,  and  an  effective  control 
of  new  buildings  and  town  planning  sections  has  been  instituted. 
The  size  of  shop  signs,  which  had  become  of  recent  years  a  serious 
disfigurement  to  the  city,  has  been  regulated  by  Municipal  By-laws, 
under  which  also  the  posting  of  bills,  placards,  and  advertisements  is 
restricted  to  moderate-sized  notice-boards  displayed  in  specially  chosen 
localities.  The  majority  of  the  streets  have  been  named  by  a  special 
committee  representative  of  the  three  great  religions,  and  the  names 
vi 


PREFACE 

blazoned  in  the  three  official  languages  in  coloured  and  glazed  Dome 
of  the  Rock  tiles.  For  the  first  time  in  the  history  of  the  city  the 
houses  of  Jerusalem  are  being  numbered.  A  map  is  being  published 
to  a  scale  of  i  :  5,000  in  English,  Arabic,  and  Hebrew,  giving  contours 
and  street  names.  A  civic  survey  and  a  comprehensive  town  plan 
are  in  course  of  preparation. 

The  Society  is  taking  a  prominent  part  in  the  Palestine  Pavilion 
of  the  British  Empire  Exhibition.  The  celebrated  models  of  the 
Temples  will  be  exhibited,  and  the  Dome  of  the  Rock  and  other 
pottery,  with  the  Hebron  glass  products,  will  be  sold  in  the  Pavilion. 
All  profits,  after  reimbursement  of  the  heavy  initial  expenditure,  will 
be  devoted  to  the  work  of  the  Society  in  Jerusalem. 

Early  last  year  I  travelled  to  the  United  States  with  the  object 
of  enlisting  the  interest,  sympathy,  and  assistance  of  that  generous 
nation.  I  have  to  record  with  gratitude  the  chivalrous  reception 
accorded  to  my  remote  and  unusual  quest,  in  so  much  that  a  sojourn 
forcibly  limited  to  twenty  days  resulted  in  subscriptions  and  donations 
amounting  to  several  thousand  pounds. 

The  monthly  expenditure  of  the  Society  is  about  jTE.aoo  (exclusive 
of  the  exceptional  British  Empire  Exhibition  expenses).  As  the 
Government  grant  of  jTE.  1,000  will  probably  have  to  be  withdrawn, 
new  members  and  donations  are  urgently  needed. 

The  following  special  projects  are  in  contemplation,  and  are 
detailed  in  the  hope  of  striking  the  imagination  of  friends,  as  yet 
unknown,  who  may  perhaps  desire  to  associate  their  names  with  some 
specific  achievement  of  permanent  benefit  to  the  Holy  City  : 

Seats  in  Palestine  marble  or  other  good  stone  for  the 
Society's  parks  and  gardens.  The  donor's  name 
will  be  carved  upon  the  seat  ...  ...      from         >C^*2° 

Seats  in  wood  or  iron  at  convenient  points  in  the 
Rampart  Walk  or  in  the  gardens.  The  donor's 
name  will  be  cut  or  painted  on  the  seat     ...     from       jrE.2-5 

Repairs   to   the   walls   of   Jerusalem,   to    be   done   in 

sections  ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...     ;^E.  1000 

Upkeep  of  the  School  of  Ceramics         ...         ...  ...        ^E.500 

Repairs  to  Citadel  (site  of  Palace  of  Herod  the  Great) 

in  sections  in  its  different  towers,  and  excavations...     ^E.2000 

vii 


PREFACE 

For   the   establishment   of  a   Museum   to   house   the 

Society's  collection   ...         ...         ...         ...         ...        j^E.500 

For  repairs  to  the  seven  gates  of  Jerusalem,  each  about  jC^«5o 

Minor  repairs  to  the  historic  bazaars     ...         ...     from         >C^-^° 

Gifts  of  historical  subjects  (Palestine  history)  for  the 

Society's  Museum. 
Gifts  of  examples  of  arts  and  crafts,  especially  examples 

of  Oriental  weaving  and  embroidery  for  the  School 

of  Textiles. 

I  would  like  to  take  this  opportunity  of  thanking  the  High  Com- 
missioner for  his  never-failing  interest  and  support,  and  the  departing 
Assistant  Governor,  Mr.  H.  C.  Luke,  whose  activities  and  vigilance 
recently  evoked  from  the  Council  a  unanimous  resolution  appointing 
him  to  life -long  membership  ;  further,  the  past  and  present  Civic 
Advisers  for  their  loyal  collaboration.  I  would  also  place  on  record 
the  debt  of  gratitude  which  Jerusalem  owes  to  the  members  of  the 
Council,  the  Mayor,  the  Director  of  Antiquities,  the  Mufti,  the 
Orthodox,  the  Latin  and  the  Armenian  Patriarchs,  the  Anglican 
Bishop,  the  President  of  the  Jewish  Community,  and  the  other  dis- 
tinguished Moslems,  Christians,  and  Jews,  all  of  them  busy  men  with 
urgent  and  important  duties  of  their  own,  who,  nevertheless,  have  not 
spared  themselves  nor  their  time  in  keeping  this  constructive  and 
unifying  fellowship  so  far  as  possible  abreast  with  the  needs  of  the 
time,  and  in  holding  it  above  and  out  of  the  dust  and  clamour  of 
political  and  other  controversy. 

Of  our  benefactors  many,  who  live  in  remote  continents,  may 
never  witness  the  results  of  their  generosity  ;  of  whom  we  can  but  say 
that,  while  some  little  of  their  achievement  will  be  presented  to  their 
vision  by  picture  and  by  plan,  their  true  satisfaction  will  rest  rather 
in  the  sure  and  certain  knowledge  that,  through  their  loving  carefulness, 
Jerusalem  will  have  been  preserved  nearer  to  the  city  of  their  faith  and 
of  their  dreams. 

Ronald  Storrs, 
President  of  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Society. 
April,    1924. 


via 


CONTENTS 

Preface.     By  Sir  Ronald  Storrs,  C.M.G.,  C.B.E.,  Governor   of   Jerusalem 

List  of  Illustrations 

Council  of  the  Pro- Jerusalem  Society 

Review  of  the  Various  Works  undertaken  by  the  Society  during  1920-22. 
By  C.  R.  Ashbee,  M.A.,  F.R.I.B.A.,  sometime  Civic  Adviser  to  the  City  of 
Jerusalem 

1.  Introductory 

2.  The  Work  of  Conservation 

3.  The  New  Town  Plan 

4.  The  Park  and  Garden  System 

5.  Markets  and  Khans 

6.  The  Naming  of  the  Streets 

7.  New  Industries  and  Educational  Work 

8.  Finance 

L'Etat  de  la  Cite  de  Jerusalem  au  XII®  Siecle.  Par  F.  M.  Abel,  O.P.,  Pro- 
fesseur  a  I'Ecole  Biblique  et  Arch^ologique  de  Saint-Etienne,  Jerusalem 

Extracts  from  the  Diary  of  a  Franciscan  Pilgrim  of  the  Sixteenth 
Century.  Contributed  by  H.  C.  Luke,  B.Litt.,  M.A.,  Assistant  Governor 
of  Jerusalem 

The  Christian  Communities  in  the  Holy  Sepulchre.     By  H.  C.  Luke 

A  Brief  Account  of  the  Painted  Tile  Work  in  the  Armenian  Cathedral 
of  St.  James.     By  George  Antonius,  M.A.,  and  Ch.  A.  Nomico    . . 

A  Brief  Description  of  the  Work  done  by  the  Local  Craftsmen  at  Govern- 
ment House,  Jerusalem.     By  C.  R.  Ashbee    .. 

An  Account  of  the  New  Jewish  Garden  Cities,  etc.,  and  the  Modifications 
they  entail  in  the  Town  Plan.     By  C.  R.  Ashbee  

A  Bibliography  of  Moslem  Architecture  in  Palestine.  By  K.  A.  C. 
Creswell,  M.B.E.,  late  Inspector  of  Monuments,  G.S.,  O.E.T.A 

Appendices   . . 
Index 
B 


PAGE 
V 

xi 

XV 


I 

4 
15 
20 
21 
26 
29 
31 

33 


41 
46 

57 
60 

64 

69 

95 
105 
ix 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


1.  Key  Plan  of  the  Citadel. 

2.  Citadel  Drawbridge  before  repair. 

3.  Drawbridge  Tower. 

4.  Cupola  during  reconstruction. 

5.  Cupola  seen  from  below. 

6.  The  Hippicus  Tower.     Block  Plan. 

7.  „  „  „  The  Window,  after  Enlargement. 

8.  5,  „  „  The  same  seen  Sectionally. 

9.  „  „  „  Section  A.B. 

10.  „  „  „  Section  CD. 

11.  „  „  „  Lower,  or  Street  Level  Plan. 

12.  ,,  ,,  „  Upper    Floor   Plan. 

13.  „  „  „  North  Elevation. 

14.  „  „  „  West  Elevation. 
15-    j>            »            >5            South  Elevation. 

16.  Tower  by  the  Minaret. 

17.  Tower  by  the  Minaret,  showing  the  Crack. 

18.  Citadel  South  Tower.     South  Facade. 

19.  „  „  „  West  Facade. 

20.  Citadel  Glacis  during  repairs. 

21.  Present  ending  of  the  Rampart  Walk  by  St.  Stephen's  Gate. 


XI 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

22.  {Frontispiece)  Masons  at  Work  on  the  East  Tower  of  the  Citadel. 

23.  Rampart  Walk,  clearance  in  progress. 

24.  Rampart  Walk,  showing  the  lowering  of  the  roof  of  the  Franciscan 

Convent,  to  reopen  the  public  way  at  that  point. 

25.  Rampart  Walk,  showing  the  building  line  of  the  Latin  Patriarchate, 

NOW  safeguarded  by  the  town  planning  legislation. 

26.  Al  Aqsa  Mosque,  showing  the  break  in  the  Rampart  Walk  on  the 

south  side  of  the  City. 

27.  Al  Aqsa  Mosque,  showing  how  it  is  proposed  to  complete  the  Walk. 

28.  Rampart  Walk  as  now  completed  around  Bezetha. 

29.  Damascus  Gate  pinnacles  before  repair. 

30.  Damascus  Gate  pinnacles  after  repair. 

31.  The  Suq  al  Kabir,  showing  the  Society's  repairs. 

32.  The  Tariq  Bab  al  Selseleh. 

33.  Details  of  a  window  in  the  Tariq  Bab  al  Selseleh. 

34.  The  Jerusalem  town  planning  area. 

35.  Jerusalem  Zoning  System. 

36.  Seat  in  the  Citadel  Garden.     The  Gift  of  Mrs.  Elizabeth  McQueen. 

37'  >j  >j  >5  The    Gift    of    the    Anglo-American 

Society. 

38.  „  „  „  The  Gift  of  Mr.  Arthur  Franklin. 

39.  „  „  „  The  Gift  of  Miss  Virginia  Blandy. 

40.  Jaffa  Gate  Maidan  Improvement  Scheme,  with  Market. 

41.  Jaffa  Gate  Improvement  Scheme  as  a  whole. 

42.  Jaffa  Gate,  the   present  condition,  showing  the  Market  sprawling 

over  the  road  area  and  upon  the  Fosse  (now  covered). 

xii 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


43.  Jaffa  Gate,  showing  the  proposed  alterations  from  the  same  point, 

WITH  the  reconstructed  caf^  and  a  low-built  containing   wall 
for  a  properly  regulated  market. 

44.  The  proposed  Valero  Khan  at  the  Damascus  Gate. 

45.  Plan  of  the  Holy  City  in  the  Thirteenth  Century. 

46.  Plan  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  and  surroundings. 

47.  St.  George  and  the  Dragon.  (Tile  in  the  Church  of  St.  James.) 

48.  Execution  of  John  the  Baptist. 

49.  Our  Lord's  entry  into  Jerusalem. 

50.  The  Virgin  and  Child. 

51.  David  playing  on  the  Harp. 

52.  The  Miracle  of  Lazarus. 

53.  The  Descent  from  the  Cross. 

54.  The  Resurrection. 

55.  Government  House,  Jerusalem.     The  Drawing-room. 

56.  Government  House,  Jerusalem.     The  Dining-room. 

57.  Government  House,  Jerusalem.    The  sideboard  in  the  Dining-room, 

designed  by  C.  R.  Ashbee. 

58.  Block  plan  of  Antiochus. 

59.  Model  of  block  plan  of  Antiochus,  with  British  Government's  plot 

shown  in  outline. 

60.  Elevation  of  block  plan.     Antiochus. 

61.  Talpioth  Garden  City.     Block  plan. 

62.  Talpioth  Garden  City.     Contour  plan. 

63.  Talpioth  Garden  City.     Model. 

64.  Talpioth  Garden  City.     Model. 

xiii 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

65.  Block  plan.     Janjirieh  Garden  City. 

66.  The  proposed  Synagogue.     Janjirieh  Garden  City. 
6"].  BoNEH  Bayit  Garden  City.     Key  plan. 

68.  Antimus  Porah  in  the  Jaffa  Road.     Block  plan. 

69.  BoNEH  Bayit  Garden  City.    Model. 


XIV 


COUNCIL    OF    THE    PRO-JERUSALEM    SOCIETY 

Founded  September  1918. 

Incorporated  October  1920  (under  the  Palestine  Administration). 

HON.   PRESIDENT, 
The  Right  Hon.  SIR  HERBERT  SAMUEL,  C.B.E.,  High  Commissioner  of  Palestine. 

PRESIDENT. 
SIR   RONALD   STORRS,   C.M.G.,   C.B.E.,  Governor  of  Jerusalem. 

COUNCIL. 
Hon.  Member :    The  Right  Hon.  Viscount  Milner,  K.G.,  G.C.B. 

Members. 
The  Mayor  of  Jerusalem. 
The  Director  of  Antiquities. 
His  Eminence  the  Rais  al-'Ulema. 
His  Beatitude  the  Orthodox  Patriarch. 
His  Beatitude  the  Latin  Patriarch. 
His  Beatitude  the  Armenian  Patriarch. 
The  Right  Rev.  the  Anglican  Bishop  in  Jerusalem. 
The  Very  Reverend  the  Custodian  of  Terra  Santa. 
His  Reverence  the  Superior  of  the  Dominican  Convent. 
The  Very  Reverend  Chief  Rabbi  Kuk. 
The  Representative  of  the  Palestine  Zionist  Executive. 
Le  Rev.  Pere  Abel  (Ecole  Biblique  de  Saint-Etienne). 
Mr.  C.  R.  Ashbee,  M.A.,  F.R.I. B.A.  (late  Civic  Adviser). 
Le  Capitaine  Barluzzi. 

Captain  K.  A.  C.  Creswell,  M.B.E.  (late  Inspector  of  Monuments,  G.S.,  O.E.T.A.). 
Dr.  M.  Eliash,  B.Litt. 
Professor  Patrick  Geddes. 
Mr.  R.  a.  Harari. 

Muza  Kazem  Pasha  al-Husseini,  C.B.E. 

Mr.  H.  C.  Luke,  B.Litt.,  M.A.  (Assistant  Governor  of  Jerusalem). 
Mr.  J.  Meyuhas,  M.B.E. 
Mr.  E.  T.  Richmond. 
Mr.  D.  G.  Salameh. 
Dr.  Nahum  Slousch. 
Mr.  Jacob  Spafford. 

Le  Rev.  Pere  Vincent  (Ecole  Biblique  de  Saint-Etienne). 
Mr.  John  Whiting. 

Mr.  David  Yellin,  M.B.E.  (Vice-Mayor  of  Jerusalem). 
Mr.  a.  C.  Holliday,  B.A.,  Civic  Adviser  (Hon.  Secretary). 

XV 


NOTE. 

While  there  has  been  carejul  collaboration 
between  the  various  writers  oj  the  essays  here 
Jollowing,  the  Council,  as  well  as  the  in- 
dividual writers,  wish  it  to  be  understood 
that  the  writers  alone  take  responsibility  Jar 
the  statements  made. 

The  Council  desire  to  thank  the  Ameri- 
can Colony  Jor  the  use  oj  many  valuable 
photographs. 

Ed. 


XVI 


JERUSALEM 

1920 1922 

By  C.   R.  Ashbee 

Introductory 

1.  The  present  volume  carries  on  the  work  conceived,  planned, 
and  started  during  the  period  of  the  British  Military  Occupation  of 
Palestine.  The  occupation  lasted  roughly  for  two  years,  the  Civil 
Administration  beginning  on  July  i,  1920.  The  present  record, 
therefore,  may  be  taken  to  cover  the  two  years  from  that  date,  and 
the  volume  containing  it  might  be  fitly  named  "Jerusalem,  1921-1922," 
in  effect  the  two  years  of  Civil  Administration  that  preceded  the  formal 
granting  of  the  Mandate. 

2.  The  principal  interest,  from  a  practical  point  of  view,  in  the 
present  volume  will,  I  think,  be  found  to  lie  in  a  comparison  between 
what  was  planned  and  what  may  have  been  accomplished — the  dream 
and  its  realization.  This  involves  other  than  the  purely  technical 
considerations  dealt  with  in  the  following  pages.  The  status  of  the 
Society  in  the  new  Administration  had  to  be  considered  and  its  rela- 
tions to  such  of  the  newly  created  Government  Departments  whose 
work  impinged  upon  that  of  the  Society.  Thus  the  conservation  ot 
public  monuments  in  the  Jerusalem  area  became  also  a  matter  for  the 
newly  established  Department  of  Antiquities.  The  town  planning 
of  the  modern  city  and  the  making  of  roads  became  a  matter  that 
also  concerned  the  newly  established  Department  of  Public  Works 
and  the  Town  Planning  Commission.  Further,  there  was  during 
the  years  1921  and  1922  a  much  more  precise  definition  of  the  functions 
of  the  Jerusalem  Municipality  and  those  of  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Council 
and  the  Civic  Adviser. 

3.  Two  things  became  evident  during  the  two  years  with  which 
we  are  dealing :  first,  powers  and  functions  which  were  formerly 
exercised  by  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Council  through  the  Governor's 
Administrative    order  were   exercised   more   and   more    by   the   new 


INTRODUCTORY 

departments  of  State  ;  and,  in  the  second  place,  many  of  the  ideas, 
plans,  and  proposals  outlined  in  Vol.  I  have  been,  at  least  as  far  as 
Jerusalem  is  concerned,  incorporated  into  the  structure  of  the  new 
State.  The  Pro-Jerusalem  Society  did  its  four  years'  work  during  a 
very  plastic  period  in  the  social  history  of  Palestine.  Such  laws  as 
the  Antiquities  Ordinance,  the  Town  Planning  Ordinance,  the  regula- 
tions regarding  corrugated  iron  and  advertisement,  the  Town  Plan 
with  its  green  belt  or  "  reserved  area  "  round  the  Holy  City,  the  new 
municipal  by-laws — all  these  were  largely  stimulated  by,  or  were  the 
direct  outcome  of,  discussions  on  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Council,  or  of 
action  taken  by  it.  As  the  new  social  order  becomes  less  plastic  and 
more  rigid  it  will  be  interesting  to  watch  how  far  the  Society  is  able 
to  go  on  inspiring  and  moulding  the  new  social  life.  So  far  much 
of  this  legislation  may  be  regarded  as  typical  of  the  post-war  State. 
Will  it  all  survive  .''  No  community  can  live  for  long  above  its  own 
level.  Will  the  new  order  that  is  shaping  in  Palestine  be  able  to 
grow  within,  and  carry  out,  the  new  laws  which  its  Administrators  in 
the  years  1921  and  1922  made  for  it?  The  thought  contains  a 
challenge. 

Following  the  method  of  the  previous  volume,  the  grouping  is 
under  the  heading  of  (i)  Work  of  Conservation,  (2)  the  New  Town 
Plan.  This  broadly  is  first  the  protection  of  the  old  city,  then  the 
laying  out  of  the  new. 

4.  The  various  contributions  by  members  of  the  Council  are  of 
special  interest  in  that  they  all  touch  on  the  Society's  work.  Pere 
Abel  contributes  a  monograph  on  the  condition  of  the  city  in  the 
Crusading  period.  This  monograph  is  largely  epigraphical.  The 
Reverend  Father  was  a  member  of  the  street-naming  committee,  to  the 
work  of  which  I  give  a  special  section  below,  and  without  his  great 
knowledge  of  the  nomenclature  and  the  written  records  of  Jerusalem 
in  its  various  languages  the  sub-committee  would  have  been  unable 
to  carry  on  their  work.  Mr.  H.  C.  Luke,  the  Assistant  Governor  of 
Jerusalem,  contributes  an  extract  from  the  Diary  of  a  sixteenth-century 
Franciscan  Pilgrim  to  the  Holy  City,  translated  from  the  unpublished 
Latin  manuscript  in  his  possession.  We  also  have  from  his  hand  an 
account  of  the  Christian  Communities  in  the  Church  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre.  This  chapter,  in  view  of  the  recent  changes  within  the 
body  of  the  Orthodox  Church,  has  particular  interest  and  significance. 
2 


INTRODUCTORY 

Mr.  Geo.  Antonius  contributes  a  monograph  upon  the  historical  side 
of  the  craft  of  Ceramics.  This  dovetails  into  the  Society's  practical 
work  on  behalf  of  the  tilework  and  repair  of  the  Dome  of  the  Rock, 
and  the  School  of  Ceramics,  which  it  initiated  in  1920.  Mr.  Creswell's 
bibliography  of  Moslem  Architecture  in  Palestine  will  be  found  to  be 
an  invaluable  addition  to  the  study,  and  more  especially  to  the  dating 
of  Arabic  building — matters  about  which  English  architects  and  writers 
have  been  very  ignorant. 

The  remaining  contributions,  the  account  of  the  new  Jewish 
town  planning  projects,  and  the  work  of  the  local  craftsmen  at  Govern- 
ment House,  explain  themselves.  They  deal  almost  entirely  with 
modern  work  and  modern  creative  endeavour,  I  treat  the  subject- 
matter  in  its  place,  but  would  like  to  say  here  that  without  the  assist- 
ance, the  constant  and  kindly  encouragement,  of  Dr.  Ruppin,  or  the 
scholarly  labours  of  Mr.  KaufFmann,  the  work  could  not  have  taken 
the  shape  it  has  in  the  actual  town  plan  of  the  city,  nor  could  I  have 
set  down  the  record  of  what  has  been  done  or  projected  in  the  two 
years  and  which  is  here  shown. 


The  Work  of  Conservation 

5.  The  disaster  of  the  Great  War  has  forced  upon  all  men  and 
women  the  necessity  of  preserving  all  that  is  possible  of  the  beauty 
and  the  purpose,  in  actual  form,  of  the  civilizations  that  have  passed 
before.  We  have  come  to  see,  moreover,  that  this  is  not  a  mere  matter 
of  archeology  or  the  protection  of  ancient  buildings.  In  the  blind 
mechanical  order  with  which  we  are  threatened  everything  that  we 
associate  with  our  sense  of  beauty  is  alike  in  danger.  Landscape,  the 
unities  of  streets  and  sites,  the  embodied  vision  of  the  men  that  set  the 
great  whole  together,  the  sense  of  colour  which  in  any  oriental  city  is 
still  a  living  sense — all  these  things  have  to  be  considered  practically  ; 
they  must,  to  put  it  plainly,  be  protected  against  the  incursions  of 
the  grasping  trader,  the  ignorant  workman,  the  self-interested  property 
owner,  and  the  well-intentioned  Government  Department. 

In  Jerusalem,  perhaps  more  than  in  any  other  city,  these  facts  are 
brought  home  to  us.  It  is  a  city  unique,  and  before  all  things  a  city 
of  idealists,  a  city  moreover  in  which  the  idealists  through  succeeding 
generations  have  torn  each  other  and  their  city  to  pieces.  Over  forty 
times  has  it  changed  hands  in  history.  And  perhaps  partly  because 
of  all  this  and  partly  because  of  the  grandeur  of  its  site  and  surrounding 
landscape  it  is  a  city  of  singular  romance  and  beauty. 

These  facts  are  emphasized  by  other  considerations.  When  the 
British  Military  Administration  began  work  there  were  practically 
no  roads.  The  Turks  only  improvised  roads  and  most  of  them  the 
Great  War  had  destroyed. '  Next,  in  the  turning  of  every  sod  or  scrap 
of  stone  some  historic  association  is  affected.  There  are  then  the 
interminable  questions  of  prescriptive  right  in  venerated  sites,  the 
joint  ownerships  by  divers  and  conflicting  religious  bodies.  The  city 
maintains  a  large  parasitic  population — priests,  caretakers,  monks, 
missionaries,  pious  women,  clerks,  lawyers,  the  motley  order  that  has 
a  vested  interest  in  maintaining  the  status  quo.  Here  is  a  force  that 
often  makes  for  what  is  picturesque  and  conservative,  but  as  often 
checks  the  administrator  in  genuine  and  rational  improvement,  because 
the  sanction  for  what  he  wants  to  do  rests  not  in  the  city  itself,  but  in 
the  great  world  outside  somewhere,  hidden  away.  The  actual  bit  of 
stone  or  the  rubbish-heap  we  want  to  clean  up  may,  it  is  true,  belong 

4 


THE  WORK   OF   CONSERVATION 

to  some  Greek,  or  Moslem,  or  Jew,  but  the  Armenian,  the  English 
Protestant,  the  Abyssinian,  the  American  missionary,  the  Italian, 
the  Wakf  in  India,  the  Copt,  the  other  fellow  somewhere — they  all 
have  a  word  to  say  on  the  matter,  and  before  we  do  anything  we  must 
wait  to  hear  it. 

And,  last,  there  has  been  the  fact  that  has  necessarily  modified 
alike  the  enterprise  of  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Society  and  the  Administra- 
tion— there  has  been  very  little  money  to  do  anything  with.  This, 
though  it  may  cripple  historical  research,  may  also  be  a  protection 
against  vandalism  or  ill-considered  enterprise,  for  one  great  power 
at  least  the  Administrator  of  to-day  possesses,  the  power  of  sitting 
tight  and  doing  nothing,  of  stopping  unintelligent  or  destructive 
action,  of  waiting  till  a  better  day.  If  he  have  taste,  though  he  himself 
be  precluded  from  all  creation,  he  can  at  least  prevent  foolish  or  wanton 
things  from  being  done.  That  has,  in  the  Holy  City  during  the  last 
five  years,  been  a  very  great  help. 

And  one  thing  we  whose  concern  is  civics  must  always  remember. 
In  the  conservation  of  a  city,  whether  it  be  like  London,  Paris,  Rome, 
or  New  York,  well  within  the  great  stream  of  the  world,  or  whether 
like  Jerusalem  set  upon  a  hill-top  and  remote,  what  we  are  conserving 
is  not  only  the  things  themselves,  the  streets,  the  houses,  spires,  towers, 
and  domes,  but  the  way  of  living,  the  idealism,  the  feeling  for 
righteousness  and  fitness  which  these  things  connote,  and  with  which 
every  city  with  any  claim  to  dignity  and  beauty  is  instinct. 

6.  I  will  now  take  the  Society's  work  of  conservation  in  detail 
and  begin  with  the  Citadel  of  Jerusalem.  This  has  been  the  centre 
of  its  activities.  There  are,  including  the  little  tower  at  the  entrance 
gate  and  the  old  drawbridge,  seven  main  towers  in  the  Citadel,  and 
to  all  but  one  of  these  the  Society  during  the  last  two  years  did  some 
important  structural  work.  I  give  twenty-one  illustrations,  eight  of 
them  photographs  and  thirteen  diagrams  or  plans,  and  I  take  them 
in  the  order  of  the  towers  on  the  plan  (Illustration  No.  i).  Beginning 
with  the  entrance  or  drawbridge  tower  (b  on  the  plan),  I  show  in 
No.  2  a  photograph  of  the  tower  as  it  was  before  the  ugly,  dilapidated 
Turkish  woodwork  was  cleared  away.  Illustration  No.  3  shows  the 
little  tower,  carefully  pointed  and  repaired,  and  once  again  free.  The 
picture  also  shows  the  fosse  garden  as  finally  constructed.  Passing 
through  the  entrance  tower,  we  come  to  a   beautiful  little   octagon, 

5 


Tower  of  David. 
Entrance,  or  Drawbridge  Tower. 
The  Second  Tower. 
The  South-East  Tower. 
The  dismantled  and  ruined  Keef. 
The  Minaret  and  South-West  Tower. 
The  Terrace  above  the  glacis. 
The  Mosque. 
The  Hifficus  Tower. 
Fosse,  new  Citadel  Garden. 
The  Jaffa  Gate. 
The  Rampart  Walk. 
.  The  Barracks. 


Key  Plan  of  the   Citadel. 


\ 


1 


"No.   I. 


Cupola  during  reconstruction. 


F*.-i».-r.  -,.-.Jt.v  .li 


'■ifxr   ■  K-.-i)'"Xi-^        ■-'^^_i 


Cupola  seen  jrom  below. 


No.   5. 


THE  WORK   OF  CONSERVATION 


a. 
b. 
c. 
d. 


h. 


The  Hi-ppicus  Tower. 
The  Jaffa  Gate. 
Cistern. 
Halj-excavated       fit 

debris. 
Modern      Turkish       stables. 

partial  ruins. 
Modern  annex. 
The  walls. 

The  Terrace  on  the  glacis. 
The  Fosse. 

{Scale,  1.200  m.) 


The  Hipptcus  Tower.     Block  Plan. 


No.  6. 


so  called,  of  Suleiman  the  Magnificent.  Over  this  octagon  is  a  dome 
or  cupola.  This  was  falling  ;  the  parts  were  reassembled  and  reset. 
No.  4  shows  one  of  the  Society's  masons  at  work  on  this  cupola,  and 
No.  5  the  masonry  itself  as  seen  from  below. 

One  of  the  most  important  pieces  of  structural  repair  has  been 
that  on  the  East  or  Second  Tower  (see  c  on  Plan  No.  i),  which  was 
taken  in  hand  with  the  financial  help  of  the  Department  of  Antiquities. 
Some  of  the  Roman  stone  work,   reset    in   Moslem    times,    was    dis- 

7 


No.  7. 


Limits  of  window 
before  enlargement 


No.  8. 

The  Hjppicus  Tower — shoiving  how  the  little  prison-like  window  [hatched 
in  the  diagrams)  was  replaced  by  a  large  light  fitted  into,  but  without 

disturbing,  the  original  masonry. 


THE   WORK    OF    CONSERVATION 


integrating.  The  beautiful  illustration  [See  Frontispiece)  shows  the 
Society's  masons  at  work.  The  lower  portion  of  the  tower  was 
made  good  and  the  bulk  of  the  tower  repointed. 

The  same  picture  shows  in  the  distance  the  Tower  of  David. 
To  the  outside  of  this  nothing  was  done,  but  the  Society  repaired 
and  opened  out  the  interior,  making  of  the  great  central  chamber  a 
rather  beautiful  exhibition  room. 

A  like  work  was  carried  out  in  the  Hippicus  Tower  (see  i  on  Plan 
No.  i).  This,  which  before  and  during  war  was  a  hospital  for  spotted 
fever,  was  carefully  put  in  order  and  the  interior  converted  into  two 
large  exhibition  rooms  (Nos.  g  to  15).     Illustrations  Nos.  7  and   8 


o    I    a     & 


The  Hippicus  Tower. 


No.  9. 


No.   10. 


show  how  the  little  prison-like  window  beneath  the  arch  was  enlarged 
to  light  the  great  room.  The  Hippicus  Tower  flanking  the  Jaffa 
Road,  and  opposite  the  Jaffa  Gate,  is  necessarily  one  of  the  main 
features  of  any  improvement  scheme  in  this  part  of  the  city,  as  will 
be  seen  later  when  the  Jaffa  Gate  improvement  is  considered  (see 
pp.  2  1,  22,  23).  The  Society,  therefore,  arranged  with  the  Depart- 
ment of  Antiquities  to  have  this  tower  specially  measured,  and  some 
of  the  drawings  here  given  are  from  the  measurements  of  Mr.  Salante. 

The  last  of  the  towers,  upon  which  the  Society  was  at  work  in 

1922,  is  the  south-west  tower  (see  Nos.  16  and  17)  in  which  a  serious 

crack   showed    itself   in   the  summer  of    1922.     This   tower,   the  fall 

of  which  would  endanger  the  minaret,  is  one  of  the  most  distinguished 

of  all  the  Citadel  towers.     Though  the  Society  at  the  time  had  no 

D  9 


D- 


No.    1 1 . 

LcK'er,  or  street  level  flan. 

The  Hippicus  Tower. 


No.    I  2. 


upper  floor  plan. 


r- 

1 

n 

J 

J¥l 

We 

St 

Elevalic 

n 

N.  Elevation 


No.  13. 
T/ie  Hippicus  Tower. 


No.    1 4. 


11      [T^. 


D    D 


nJ 


South   Elevation 


No.   15. 


Tower  by  the  Minaret. 


No.   1 6. 


No.    17. 
Tower  by  the  Mi/iaret,  showing  the  crack. 


10] 


0< 

1-.    Co 


^ 


5=0 


THE  WORK   OF   CONSERVATION 


money  it  was  felt  that  special  sacrifices  must  be  made  and  the  _(/^E.3oo 
needed  for  its  protection  somehow  or  other  found.  The  diagrams  here 
given  (Nos.  i8  and  19)  show  the  cracks  in  detail  and  the  method  of 
tying  to  be  adopted. 


Minaret 


Corbel  missing 


I 


Plan 


Vertical  heights 
approximate 


S 


X 


South  Facade 

No.  18. 
Citadel  South   Tower. 

The  thick  black  lines  show  the  cracks  in  the  masonry. 


West  Fa9ade 

o       I       2^4^678  Metre* 

No.  19. 


The  last  of  the  Citadel  works  to  which  I  shall  allude  is  the  repair 
of  the  angle  of  the  glacis.  In  No.  20  we  see  the  work  in  progress. 
Illustration  No.  16  shows  the  glacis  in  its  relation  to  the  whole 
Citadel. 

It  will,  I  think,  be  agreed  that  these  various  works  undertaken 
at  a  total  cost  of  about  ^E.  1,000  (the  exact  figure  during  the  financial 
year  1921  was  ^^49 5'  *^^^  balance  having  been  spent  later),  show  no 
mean  record  of  conservation  taken  over  a  period  of  two  years.  And, 
indeed,  the  work  was  needed.  There  had  been  no  repair  for  over 
ten  years,  and  much  of  the  Citadel  was   in  danger  of  falling.     Much 

II 


THE  WORK   OF   CONSERVATION 

yet  remains  to  do,  and  much  of  the  most  interesting  work  historically 
is  below  the  ground  level  or  in  the  blocked-up  passages  beneath  or 
skirting  the  glacis,  or  even  under  the  moat.  But  the  Citadel  of 
Jerusalem  is  one  of  those  buildings  upon  which  the  architect  and 
the  archsologist  join  issue.  The  latter  would  wish  to  dig  it  up  and 
search  its  origins.  To  do  this  he  has  to  kill  the  building.  The 
former  insists  that  as  the  building  is  still  alive  and  serving  a  purpose, 
noble  and  beautiful,  it  must  be  so  kept.  The  later  periods  cannot  be 
disturbed  to  reveal  the  earlier.  Architecture  here  is  more  important 
than  archeology. 

7.  The  work  on  the  Citadel  leads  inevitably  to  that  of  the  ramparts. 
The  preserving  and  opening  out  of  the  Rampart,  or  Sentinel's  Walk, 
which  was  discussed  at  length  in  the  first  volume  of  the  Jerusalem 
Records,  is  now  to  all  intents  and  purposes  complete.  All  encroach- 
ments except  one  have  been  cleared  away  ;  that  one,  the  most  difficult 
of  all,  is  at  the  two  ends  of  the  Haram  al  Sherif.  One  of  these  is 
shown  in  Illustration  No.  21,  the  other  was  shown  in  the  first  volume 
Illustration  No.  39.  The  difficulty  is  not  technical,  it  is  political, 
and  it  is  greater  than  it  was  at  the  close  of  the  Military  Administration. 
In  technical  matters  that  affect  the  general  welfare  or  the  amenities 
of  the  whole  community  alike  it  was  often  easier  to  get  things  done 
then  than  now.  Mr.  Benton  Fletcher's  drawing  (No.  26),  which 
with  the  other  in  this  volume  the  Council  commissioned  him  to  do, 
gives  an  interesting  view  of  this  side  of  the  Rampart  Walk  from 
without  the  walls.  The  precise  way  in  which  it  is  proposed  to  solve 
the  problem  of  linking  up  the  last  section  of  the  walk  that  will  pass 
across  the  Al  Aqsa  Mosque  is  not  yet  determined.  An  inconspicuous 
iron  way,  skirting  the  Al  Aqsa  outside,  is  suggested  (see  Inset  No.  27). 
Illustrations  Nos.  23  and  24  show  two  clearances  near  the  New  Gate, 
the  former  a  gang  at  work  opposite  the  Convent  of  the  ScEurs 
Reparatrices  ;  the  latter  the  lowering  of  the  roof  of  the  Franciscan 
Convent,  where  a  gabled  roof  had  been  built  over,  and  butting  upon 
the  Rampart  Walk  parapet.  This,  by  arrangement  with  His  Reverence 
the  President  of  the  Franciscan  Community,  was  brought  down  to 
the  level  of  the  walk,  thus  preserving  the  public  right-of-way. 

Illustration  No.  25  is  of  the  utmost  interest.  It  shows  how  the 
activities  of  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Society  have  automatically  come  to 
be  incorporated  in  the  working  legislation  of  the  city.  The  building 
12 


Rampart    Walk,   clearance   in  progress. 


No.   23. 


Rampart  Walk,  showing  the  lowering 
of  the  rooj  oj  the  Franciscan  Convent 
to  reopen  the  public  way  at  that  point. 


No.  24. 


No.  25. 


Rampart  Walk,  showing  the  building 
line  oj  the  Latin  Patriarchate,  now 
safeguarded    by    the    town    planning 


legislation. 

o 


•',  ^  <-5 


iiu. 


ve 


> 


^ 


'-I 


<1 


•^ 


-Si 


'U     -^i^ 

K.^  ^ 


Is.*  -;      ^1 


bN     Ei 


DO 


t-4 


IS 


^ 

^ 
^ 


-      =< 


Damascus    Gate  pinnacles   hejore  repair. 


No.   29. 


Damascus   Gate  pinnacles  ajter  repair. 


No.  30. 


r«j 


THE   WORK    OF   CONSERVATION 

is  the  Latin  Patriarchate  with  its  garden  skirting  the  walk.  Beyond 
is  the  Citadel  with  the  Hippicus  Tower  and  David's  Tower.  A 
permit  to  build  had  been  asked  for  at  the  point  shown  below  the  arrow, 
thus  blocking  out  the  view  of  the  towers  from  the  walk.  The  Society 
had  nothing  to  do  with  the  case  except  through  its  representative 
officer,  myself,  with  whom  lay  the  decision  as  to  whether  it  should 
be  brought  up  at  the  Town  Planning  Commission.  With  this  body, 
under  the  new  law,  rests  the  final  decision  as  to  whether  or  not  permits 
shall  be  allowed  that  affect  the  town  plan.  The  case  was  heard,  the 
Commission  disallowed  the  permit,  and  ruled  that  the  building  line 
of  the  Latin  Patriarchate  must  be  followed.  A  precedent  of  the 
utmost  importance  under  the  new  law  was  thus  established  which  may 
have  the  effect  of  saving  large  portions  of  the  city  from  destruction. 

The  last  illustration  I  give  of  the  now  completed  Rampart  Walk 
(No.  28)  is  that  of  the  corner  by  the  Stork  Tower.  It  shows  the 
great  stretch  of  the  walls  across  Bezetha  and  looking  out  to  Scopus 
and  the  Mount  of  Olives. 

8.  I  now  come  to  the  Gates,  During  the  two  years  effective 
work  has  been  done  upon  three,  the  Jaffa  Gate,  the  Damascus  Gate, 
and  Herod's  Gate.  Over  the  last  of  these  the  Rampart  Walk  was 
cleared.  At  Damascus  Gate  an  important  piece  of  repair  work  was 
undertaken  on  the  pinnacles,  again  with  the  financial  assistance  of  the 
Department  of  Antiquities.  I  give  two  illustrations  (Nos.  29  and  30) 
of  their  condition  before  and  after  repair.  Beneath  these  pinnacles, 
in  the  eastern  wing  of  the  gate,  one  of  the  old  guard-rooms  was 
cleaned  up  and  let  as  a  studio.  It  is  now  in  the  occupation  of  Mr. 
Melnikoff  the  sculptor.  The  more  important  scheme  of  the  Khan 
outside  the  Damascus  Gate,  which  has  also  been  considered  by  the 
Society,  I  shall  deal  with  below  (section  20),  as  it  affects  town 
planning  rather  than  conservation,  though,  indeed,  the  partial  opening 
up  of  the  Roman  arch  and  levels  is  involved  (see  plan  44). 

For  the  Jaffa  Gate  the  Council  worked  out  a  definite  scheme 
entailing  the  removal  of  the  clock  tower.  It  is  now  proposed,  in 
deference  to  wishes  of  the  donors,  to  re-erect  it  elsewhere.  The 
Rampart  Walk  was  opened  out  through  the  Jaffa  Gate,  an  attempt 
having  been  made  to  convert  that  entrance  into  private  property. 

9.  In  the  old  suqs  and  covered  ways  of  the  city  the  Society  was 
unfortunately  not  able,  owing  to  lack  of  funds,  to  do  what  should  be 

13 


THE  WORK   OF   CONSERVATION 

done.  I  would  refer  here  again  to  what  was  set  forth  on  this  matter 
in  p.  8  of  the  Records,  Vol.  I.  Almost  everything  there  stated  still 
holds  good.  One  piece  of  work,  however,  was  well  carried  through, 
and  this  largely  owing  to  the  enterprise  of  the  Mayor  of  Jerusalem, 
Ragib  Bey  Nashashibi.  This  work  is  best  shown  in  the  drawing 
made  for  the  Council  by  Mr.  Benton  Fletcher  (Illustration  No.  31). 
The  matter  is  one  of  finance.  It  is  much  to  be  hoped  that  the  plan 
of  the  pro  rata  levy  on  property  owners  will  shortly  be  worked  out. 
To  this  could  be  added,  where  needed,  the  sums  budgeted  for  the 
upkeep  of  historic  buildings  in  the  municipal  budget. 

These  ancient  suqs  of  Jerusalem  are  unique.  Their  present  state 
and  the  photographic  records  scattered  up  and  down  the  Society's 
two  volumes  of  Records  should  be  studied  side  by  side  with  Pere  Abel's 
plan  of  the  medieval  city  (Illustration  No.  45). 

10.  A  matter  upon  which  the  Society  would  have  liked  to  take 
action,  but  which  unfortunately  went  no  further  than  report  and  con- 
servative advice,  was  the  state  of  the  houses  in  the  Tariq  Bab  al 
Selseleh,  the  most  beautiful  street  in  Jerusalem.  I  give  two  illustrations 
(Nos.  3  2  and  33).  Most  of  these  houses  are  private,  and  Wakf  property  ; 
moreover,  they  are  almost  entirely  Moslem.  An  occasional  bit  of 
pointing,  the  saving  of  a  stone  or  an  inscription  here  and  there,  would 
be  of  immense,  because  of  timely,  help.  It  is  a  matter  upon  which 
the  Pro-Jerusalem  Society  and  the  Wakf  might  co-operate.  Here, 
again,  technical  matters  are  often  affected  adversely  by  political  con- 
siderations. 


14 


The  Suq  al  Kabir,  shoiving  the  Society's  repairs. 


No.   3  I , 


The   Tar'iq   Bab  al  Selseleh. 


No.    32. 


Details   of  a   window  in   the  Tariq    Bab   al  Selseleh. 

Note  the  crack  through  the  inscriftion. 


No.   3  3 . 


ri5 


The  New  Town  Plan 

11.  A  study  in  the  Council's  work  upon  the  new  city  during 
the  years  1921-22  becomes  inevitably  a  study  in  town  planning,  and 
town  planning  of  a  very  practical  and  direct  kind.  Not  only  had  a 
new  city  to  be  planned  ;  the  law  had  to  be  drafted  that  should  make 
this  planning  possible,  and  the  machinery  set  up  that  should  give 
effect  to  the  law.  Moreover,  all  the  remains  of  the  old  Turkish  order 
had  to  be  taken  over  as  part  of  the  O.E.T.A.  heritage,  and  this  often 
made  direct  action  or  a  "  clean  slate  "  impossible. 

It  was  after  many  informal  conferences  between  members  of  the 
Council,  Professor  Geddes,  Dr.  Ruppin,  the  Legal  Adviser,  the 
Governor  of  Jerusalem,  and  myself  that  the  law  was  finally  got  into 
shape  for  drafting,  and  it  was  the  two  years'  experience  of  the  Pro- 
Jerusalem  Society  that  provided  the  necessary  data,  or  indicated  how 
much  of  the  modern  western  town  planning  legislation  it  might  be 
possible  to  use  in  Palestine. 

12.  The  Palestine  Town  Planning  Ordinance  then  may  be  said 
to  have  come  into  existence  largely  as  the  result  of  the  spade  work 
done  in  the  city  by  the  Council  of  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Society.  Much 
of  the  legislation  it  embodies  is  dealt  with  in  the  Council's  early 
minutes,  and  the  ideas  set  forth  in  Vol.  I  of  the  Records  have  for  the 
most  part  been  incorporated. 

It  has  been  complained  that  the  Ordinance  is  complicated  and 
difficult  to  understand,  that  it  is  impossible  to  render  in  the  three 
official  languages,  that  it  is  in  parts,  as  a  mere  matter  of  machinery, 
unworkable.  Some  of  these  criticisms  were  found  to  be  just,  and  in 
1922  an  amending  Ordinance  was  passed  to  give  effect  to  them. 
And  there  is  much  of  real  truth  in  them.  Laws  and  Ordinances  that 
are  suitable  to  western  cities,  and  partly  because  of  the  way  in  which 
their  citizens  observe  and  administer  them,  may  not  be  suitable  to 
eastern  cities,  or  it  may  be  a  very  long  time  before  they  are. 

13.  The  question  whether  the  work  initiated  by  the  Pro-Jerusalem 
Society  in  the  new  town  plan  succeeds  or  not  will  depend  very  largely 
upon  whether  the  members  of  the  Town  Planning  Commission  ap- 
pointed under  the  Ordinance  to  carry  out  the  town  plan  understand 
and  can  administer  the  great  trust  committed  to  them.     It  is  that 

15 


THE   NEW  TOWN   PLAN 

Commission  which  has  now  taken  over  all  the  duties  of  the  Pro-Jerusalem 
Society  in  respect  of  the  town  plan,  and  their  success  or  failure  will 
largely  affect  all  the  other  cities  of  Palestine. 

There  stand  to  the  credit  of  the  Jerusalem  Town  Planning  Com- 
mission, which  may  then  be  justly  claimed  as  the  child  of  the  Pro- 
Jerusalem  Society,  four  important  pieces  of  work  during  the  years 
1921  and  1922. 

1.  The  establishment  of  the  new  town  boundaries. 

2.  The  zoning  of  the  city  in  general  outline. 

3.  The  first  draft  of  the  new  body  of  by-laws  and  regulations 

that  shall  give  effect  to  the  law. 

4.  The  lay-out  and  aligning  of  eight  sections  of  the  new  city. 
14.  The  plan  I  show  (No.  34)  illustrates  the  first  and  fourth  of 

these  achievements.  The  now  established  boundaries  lie  along  the 
nearest  convenient  geographical  points  within  the  dotted  containing 
line,  but  including  the  villages  of  Saafat,  El-Isawiye,  El-Azarie^ 
Mar  Elias,  Der  Jasin,  and  Lifta.  The  eight  numbered  areas  upon 
the  plan  represent  those  portions  of  the  city  whose  new  road  align- 
ments and  lay-out  have  been  passed  by  the  Jerusalem  Town  Planning 
Commission.  Of  these  Nos.  VI,  VII,  and  VIII  are  new  Jewish 
garden  cities,  with  which  I  shall  deal  later  (see  pages  65,  66,  67). 

A  word  is  needed  here  on  the  vitally  important  question  of  survey. 
The  Pro-Jerusalem  Society  fought  bravely,  and  for  long  unsuccess- 
fully, for  a  proper  survey  of  the  city.  Every  town  planner  knows 
that  without  the  preliminary  datum  of  a  correct  survey  the  making  of 
a  town  plan  is  an  impossibility.  The  Military  Administration  took 
a  different  view.  They  held  that  the  town  plan  might  be  made,  but 
refused  to  sanction  any  budget  for  the  survey  ;  the  municipal  surveyor's 
office  was  thus  broken  up,  and  the  staff  discharged.  This  threw  the 
work  back  for  two  years,  and  it  was  not  until  the  Civil  Administration 
was  well  established  that  this  was  remedied.  On  the  key  plan  the 
central  portions  of  the  new  city  are  based  upon  the  municipal  survey 
of  Mr.  Guini,  the  outlying  portions  upon  the  official  survey  of  Palestine 
which  his  Excellency  the  High  Commissioner  put  at  the  service  of 
the  city.  Thus  whereas  the  McLean  and  Geddes  plans  are  based  on 
incorrect  data,  the  eight  sections  of  the  new  town  plan  are  fixed  upon 
data  that  claim  to  be  accurate. 

It  is  considered  wiser  not  to  reproduce  here  the  eight  aligned 
16 


The  yerusalem   Town  Planning  Area. 


No.   34. 


The  area  is  within  the  dotted  lines,  the  numbered  sections  are  those  in  which  the 
flan  has  been  officially  passed. 


E 


THE   NEW  TOWN   PLAN 

sections,  first  on  the  ground  of  expense,  then  on  that  of  scale,  and 
lastly  because  all  are  still  liable  to  modification  during  the  process  of 
development  in  the  next  few  years.  It  may  therefore  be  better  to 
issue  them  in  some  later  volume  that  shall  give  the  complete  town 
plan.  There  will  probably  be  some  twenty  sections  in  all,  and  these 
have  to  be  linked  together  with  the  eight  sections  already  officially 
published  and  open  for  inspection  in  the  Municipality  of  Jerusalem. 

15.  I  give,  however,  the  zoning  plan  in  general  outline  coloured 
(No.  35)  because  it  affects  the  order  and  arrangement  of  the  new 
city.  Also  a  zoning  plan  necessarily  precedes  the  making  of  new 
alignments,  or  the  planning  of  new  roads  and  quarters.  This  plan 
must,  however,  be  regarded  only  as  a  first  draft.  No  complete  plan  is 
possible  until  the  survey  itself  has  been  completed.  But  the  plan  here 
shown  is  the  working  plan  upon  which  permits  to  build  were  granted 
up  to  the  end  of  the  period  covered  by  this  volume. 

Zoning,  indeed,  as  understood  in  European  cities,  is  hardly  yet 
possible  in  the  East.  There  is  too  much  medievalism,  too  much 
muddle  and  litter  of  western  industrialism  to  be  first  cleared  out  of 
the  way,  and,  above  all,  the  people  themselves  are  not  as  yet  ready 
to  act  in  accordance  with  the  laws  when  these  are  made.  They  are 
still  too  dependent  upon  orders  imposed  from  above.  In  some  respects 
this  makes  our  task  as  town  planners  easier,  but  in  so  far  as  we  try 
as  administrators  to  encourage  the  citizens  to  think,  act,  and  legislate 
for  themselves,  we  are  handicapped  because  an  ideal  order  is  postulated. 

To  make  the  town  plan  itself  ideal  predicates  a  good  deal  more 
than  town  planning.  Thus  we  have  after  long  and  careful  study  to 
set  the  roads  where  they  should  go,  we  have  to  consider  all  the  beauty 
spots,  we  have  to  save  and  link  up  all  the  historic  buildings,  we  have 
to  tear  down  and  clear  away  all  the  ugly  things  and  make  the  private 
give  way  to  the  public  interests.  That  is  the  ideal  way.  The  City  of 
Jerusalem  is  worthy  such  a  treatment.  As  a  matter  of  practical  experi- 
ence and  where  there  is  no  money  what  happens  is  very  different. 
It  is  impossible  to  get  out  of  the  hard  rut  of  existing  roads  ;  all  we  can 
do  is  to  widen  a  little.  It  is  difficult,  often  impossible,  to  touch  buildings 
that  are  in  the  hands  of  religious  bodies.  There  is  as  yet  neither  money 
nor  administrative  machinery  to  keep  in  repair  historic  buildings,  and 
many  of  the  finest  of  these  are  in  private  hands.  The  real  work  is, 
after  all,  not  the  drawing  of  the  city  plan  on  paper,  nor  the  description 
18 


O    0     O      o  / 

o  o    o    o        tj€\ 

CCCC     Ml 


a.b. -■    ■Jewiifi  tombs  many  ofthem  ancient  roclL\ 
C.d  I    tcmbs  which  are  incorporated  with  the  Park 
e.f  I   System 


No.^S- 


THE    NEW   TOWN    PLAN 

of  it  in  a  book,  nor  the  comments  on  it  in  an  office  file,  nor  even  the 
making  of  a  picture  of  it  for  the  walls  of  the  Royal  Academy.  The 
real  work  is  to  administer  it  intelligently  and  towards  the  shaping  of 
a  more  or  less  ideal  end.  The  only  test  of  this  is  the  beauty  and  the 
comeliness  of  the  city  itself. 


»9 


Park  System  and  Gardens 

1 6.  I  deal  now  with  certain  minor  aspects  of  the  town  plan  which 
have  been  under  the  special  charge  of  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Society,  and 
I  take  first  the  parks  and  gardens. 

The  Citadel  Garden,  of  which  illustrations  have  already  been 
given,  has  made  considerable  progress,  and  some  gracious  and  valuable 
gifts  (see  Nos.  36  to  39)  have  been  made  to  it.  The  pictures  speak  for 
themselves.  Of  the  ceramic  work,  I  shall  speak  later  (see  pages  29 
and  62).  A  beautiful  example  of  the  Dome  of  the  Rock  tiles  is  shown, 
No.  39.  Mr.  Antonius,  in  his  article  on  the  Kutahia  craft,  pp.  58 
and  59,  also  refers  to  its  revival  in  Jerusalem. 

1 7.  A  careful  record  has  been  kept  of  all  the  trees  planted  in  the 
city  during  the  two  years  with  which  this  monograph  deals.  The 
record  for  the  second  of  these  years  will  be  found  in  Appendix  I. 
It  shows  thirty-eight  failures  in  a  total  of  1,903  trees  planted  in 
1921-2,  as  against  332  failures  in  a  total  of  1,283  planted  during 
the  year  1920-21.  The  reason  of  this  success  is,  from  the  civic 
point  of  view,  highly  gratifying.  The  staff  learned  to  understand 
jheir  work  better,  the  public  to  give  it  greater  value.  The  Society 
established  two  nurseries,  one  in  the  Citadel  Garden,  one  on  the 
open  land  claimed  by  the  municipality  and  known  as  Jamal  Pasha's 
Park,  near  the  Muscovia. 

18.  The  work  in  the  Post  Office  Square  still  needs  completion. 
The  stone  work  has  to  be  finished,  the  terraces  to  be  paved,  and  the 
circular  seat  and  steps,  as  shown  in  Vol.  I,  p.  25,  to  be  built.  But  the 
trees  at  the  close  of  1922  were  doing  well,  and  this  centre  of  the  town, 
instead  of  being  an  ugly  refuse  heap  of  broken  stone  and  litter,  was 
taking  form  and  colour.  Meantime  the  land  itself,  under  the  new 
Town  Planning  Ordinance,  has  to  be  expropriated  or  the  owner  com- 
pensated. The  return  upon  the  capital  outlay,  it  is  estimated,  will  be 
from  improved  values  to  the  municipal  buildings  in  the  square  and  from 
the  "  Sharafia,"  or  betterment  tax. 


20 


Seat  in  the  Citadel  Garden. 
The  gift  of  Mrs.  Elizaheth 
McQueen. 


Seat  in  the  Citadel  Garden.  No.    -^J. 

The  gift  oj  the  Anglo-American 
Society. 


Seat  in  the  Citadel  Garden. 
The  gijt  of  Mr.  Arthur 
Franklin. 


No.   38. 


I  <i^■l^^<l 


Seat  in  the  Citadel  Garden. 
The  gift  oj  Miss  Virginia 
Blandy. 


Xo.   39. 


20] 


y^iffa  Gate,  the  prcsciit  LUiidUion,  s/wu-ing  the  market  spraiclirig 
over  the  road  area  and  upon  the  Fosse  [noiv  covered). 


No.  42. 


m 


1  'II'M- 


yaffa  Gu:.\  J,,  ,i<ing  the  proposed  alterations  from  the  same  point, 
with  the  reconstructed  caje  and  a  low-built  containing  wall  Jor  a 
properly  regulated  market. 


rf^-f^^^ 


\^ 


n 


.\,.  43. 


Markets  and  Khans 

19.  The  work  on  the  markets  has  progressed  but  slowly.  There 
has  been  no  money.  And  private  enterprise  does  not  move  readily 
in  a  mould  meant  for  public  benefit  ;  but  Mr.  Valero,  one  of  the 
owners  of  the  Mahanna  Yuda  property,  for  which  the  designs  were 
shown  in  Vol.  I,  p.  27,  expressed  his  willingness  to  carry  out  the 
scheme,  and  the  tenants  of  the  miserable  booths  which  still  disgrace 
the  entrance  to  the  modern  city  from  the  Jaffa  side  have  been  given 
notice. 

More  important  is  the  scheme  I  show  of  t;he  Jaffa  Gate  Market, 
Illustration  No.  40.  Here  the  efforts  of  the  Town  Planning  Commis- 
sion, of  the  municipality,  and  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Society,  are  combined. 
The  inception  was  with  the  latter.  The  Commission  approved  the 
scheme  in  principle  ;  the  working  out  of  the  finance,  in  other  words 
the  collection  and  adjustment  of  the  market  dues  that  will  cover  the 
payment  of  interest  on  loan,  is  with  the  municipality. 

When  once  the  market  is  moved  from  the  Citadel  Fosse  and  the 
latter  opened  out  the  whole  Jaffa  Gate  improvement  scheme  as  shown 
in  plans  40  and  41  will  be  within  measurable  distance  of  accomplish- 
ment. This  market  improvement  project  should,  from  the  civic  point 
of  view,  be  studied  in  conjunction  with  the  new  ridge  road  that  lies  to 
the  north,  the  Jewish  scheme  for  the  new  business  quarter  of  Antiochus 
that  lies  to  the  north-east  of  it,  and  the  new  hotel,  the  site  of  which  will 
be  seen  to  the  north-west  (B  on  No.  41).  All  around,  from  the  present 
site  of  the  banks  and  cafes  (No.  42),  which  later  might  be  rebuilt  some- 
what as  shown  in  my  illustration  No.  43,  should  be  reserved  as  open 
space  or  park  land  as  already  laid  down  in  the  general  park  plan  in 
Vol.  I,  p.  19.  Much  of  this  has  already,  through  financial  necessity, 
being  whittled  away.  If  the  great  idea  of  the  green  belt,  or  what 
is  left  of  it  round  the  Holy  City,  is  to  be  preserved,  all  ruksahs  must 
in  this  area  be  jealously  watched  or  refused  altogether. 

21 


Jajffa   Gate  Maidan  Improvement  Scheme,  nvith  Market. 


No.  40. 


MARKETS    AND    KHANS 


A.  The  New  Ridge  Road. 

B.  The  Four  nezu  Building  Reservations. 
Antiochus. 

The  Government s  Plot. 

The  French  Government's  Plot. 

The  New  Hotel. 

The  Market  in  front  of  Jaffa  Gate. 

C.  To  be  E.vpropriated. 


No.  41. 

The  object  of  this  plan  is  to  show  that  the  land 
marked 


and  at  present  vacant  should  be  kept  clear  of  all 
building  in  order  to  preserve  uninterrupted  the  view 
to  and  from  the  Jaffa  Gate. 


Key  to 
The  object  of  the  whole  scheme  is  : 

1.  To  give  market  accommodation. 

2.  To  preserve  the  unique  view  from   the 

Jaffa  Gate. 

3.  To  complete  the  Citadel  garden. 

4.  To  widen  the  Jaffa  road  at  the  dangerous 

points. 

5.  To    clear    away    the    present    unsightly 

shanties. 
The  shaded  part  on  plan  No.  40  is  the  Baruckoff 
land  it  was  agreed   to  expropriate  for 
market  purposes. 
A  represents  later  market-extension,  to  the  N. 
B  represents    possible   extension    to    the    S.,    or 

plantation. 
C  areas  to  be  expropriated  for  road  widening  and 

for  opening  out  the  City  wall. 
D  causeway  (for  foot  traffic)  with  embankment 


No.  40. 

wall,  overlooking  the  valley  of  Ales,  which 
is  to  remain  open,  or  "  park  area." 

E  the  old  Turkish  "  sebil  "  to  be  replaced. 

K  suggested  new  permissible  building  line 
for  Banks  {but  not  to  exceed  existing 
heights). 

The  Market  is  on  two  levels,  and  the  accom- 
modation given  is  : 

Lower  Level — 4  domed  store-houses  ;  28  stone- 
shops  ;   54  booths. 

Upper  Level — 4  domed  store-houses  ,•  28  stone 
shops  ;  40  booths  ;  a  sebil  and  "  mastaba  '* 
at  the  N.  end. 

Interior  mean  width  of  stone-built  shops,  3  m. 

Interior  mean  width  of  stone-built  stores,  5  m. 

Interior  span  of  domes,  5  m. 

Mean  width  of  zvooden  stalls  {under  tiled  awning 
2  m.  X  li  m. 


MARKETS   AND   KHANS 

20.  Closely  akin  to  the  schemes  put  up  for  market  improvements 
in  the  city  is  that  of  the  proposed  Khan  at  Damascus  Gate,  immediately 
opposite  the  Governorate.  The  object  here  is  not  only  to  clear  away 
the  unsightly  shops  and  corrugated  iron  buildings  that  obliterate  the 
Damascus  Gate,  but  also  to  accommodate  the  Bedouins  and  their 
camels  that  enter  the  city  here  in  great  numbers.  The  sketch  plan 
(No.  44)  shows  what  is  proposed.  Here,  again,  the  Valero  family,  who, 
it  is  suggested,  shall  build  and  hold  the  Khan  as  a  private  undertaking, 
have  evinced  a  sympathetic  interest  in  the  work.  As  the  area  of  the 
proposed  Khan  is  reserved  and  may  not  be  further  built  on,  and  as 
the  corrugated  iron  when  it  falls  will  not,  under  the  ordinance,  be 
renewed,  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  in  default  of  other  more  profitable 
ventures  the  building  of  the  Khan  will  materialize. 


24 


10      5      0 


Scale  of  Metres 

20 


"^  Section 
A 


TiiA//^-^/\.t~Damascu3  Gate 
level 


The  space  marked     •      X      1 
shows  the  Roman       ~~__,-' 
work  underground . 
Palestine  exploration 
clearing.  1867. 


The  proposed  Valero  Khan  at  the  Damascus  Gate. 
F 


No.  44. 


The  Naming  of  the  Streets 

21.  The  record  of  the  civic  work  of  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Council 
during  the  year  1922  would  not  be  complete  without  an  account  of 
the  street  naming.  A  special  sub-committee  was,  at  the  instance  of 
his  Excellency  the  High  Commissioner,  formed  to  undertake  this 
most  interesting  and  by  no  means  easy  task.  The  names  had  to  be  in 
the  three  official  languages,  and  the  three  traditions,  Christian,  Moslem, 
and  Jewish,  had,  so  far  as  possible,  to  be  preserved.  Not  only  that, 
their  connotations  in  the  language  in  which  they  had  no  precise 
meaning  had  often  to  be  sought  out.  Here  was  scope  not  only  for 
scholarship  but  acute  political  division,  and  the  sub-committee  had  on 
several  occasions  to  be  steered  over  very  dangerous  rocks.  That  was 
the  work  of  the  Assistant  Governor,  who  was  chairman  of  the  sub- 
committee. I  give  here  the  first  set  of  names  that  have  been  chosen 
and  sanctioned  up  to  the  close  of  1922.  Forty-six  in  the  old  city  and 
eighty  in  the  new  city  were  either  named  or  numbered  for  naming, 
and  the  names  in  some  cases  were  painted  in  ceramics,  and  set  in  the 
streets.  The  list  is  so  full  of  history,  poetry,  and  folk-lore  that  it  is 
well  worth  careful  study.  Since  1922  the  list  as  given  below  has  been 
added  to  and  amended  in  several  respects. 


THE  OLD  CITY  (WITHIN  THE   WALLS) 

1.  New  Gate 

2.  David  Street 

3.  Street  of  the  Chain 

4.  The  Citadel 

5.  Cloth  Merchants'  Market 

6.  Spice  Market 

7.  Meat  Market 

8.  Armenian  Street 

9.  The  Muristan 

10.  Street  of  the  Hospital 

11.  Citadel  Lane 

12.  Way  of  Zion  Gate 

13.  Honour  Lane 

14.  Moorish  Quarter 

15.  Moorgate  Street 

16.  Tyropasum 

17.  Latin  Convent  Lane 

18.  Khanqah  Street 

19.  Damascus  Gate  Street 

20.  Our  Lady's  Street 

21.  Orthodox  Convent  Street 

26 


1.  Al  Bab  al  Jadid 

2.  Tariq  Mehrab  Daud 

3.  Tariq  Bab  al  Selseleh 

4.  Maidan  al  Qal'ah 

5.  Suq  al  Tujjar 

6.  Suq  al  'Attarin 

7.  Suq  al  Lahhamin 

8.  Haret  al  Arman 

9.  Al  Marestan 

10.  Tariq  al  Marestan 

11.  Haret  al  Qal'ah 

12.  Tariq  al  Nabi  Daud 

13.  Haret  el  Sharaf 

14.  Haret  al  Magharbeh 

15.  Tariq  Bab  al  Magharbeh 

16.  Al  Wad 

17.  Haret  Dair  al  Ifranj 

18.  Hosh  al  Khaneqah 

19.  Tariq  Bab  al  'Amud 

20.  Tariq  Bab  Sitti  Mariam 

21.  Haret  Dair  al  Rum 


THE   NAMING   OF  THE   STREETS 


22.  Herod's  Gate  Street 

22.  Tariq  Bab  al  Zahera 

23.  Sheikh  Rihan's  Way 

23.  Tariq  al  Shaikh  Rihan 

24.  Christian  Street 

24.  Haret  al  Nasara 

25.  Feather  Lane 

25.  Haret  al  Risheh 

26.  Casa  Nova  Lane 

26.  Tariq  al  Casa  Nuova 

27.  Street  of  the  Latins 

27.  Tariq  al  Latin 

28.  Jews'  Street 

28.  Haret  al  Yahud 

29.  El  Medan 

29.  Haret  al  Maidan 

30.  Qaraite  Street 

30.  Haret  al  Qaraim 

31.  Saadieh  Stairs 

31.  Haret  al  Sa'diyeh 

32.  El  Asali  Street 

32.  Haret  al  'Asali 

33- 

33- 

34.  Blacksmith's  Lane 

34.  Haret  al  Haddadin 

35.  Bab  Hetta  Street 

35.  Haret  Bab  Hetta 

36. 

36. 

37.  Khan  al  Zeit 

37.  Khan  al  Zait 

38.  Water  Melon  Alley 

38.  'Akabat  al  Battikha 

39.  Lentil  Convent  Lane 

39.  Sekket  Dair  al  'Adas 

40.  Al-Buraq  Court 

40.  Hosh  al  Buraq 

41.  Cotton  Gate 

41.  Suq  al  Qattanin 

42.  Via  Dolorosa 

42.  Tariq  al  Alam 

43.  Bezetha  Street 

43.  Tariq  Bait  Zaita 

44.  Dancing  Dervish  Street 

44.  Tariq  al  Maulawiyeh 

45.  Jacobite  Street 

45.  Tariq  Dair  al  Surian 

46.  Stork  Lane 

46.  Tariq  Laqlaq. 

THE   NEW  CITY  (WITHOUT  THE 

WALLS) 

I.  Jaffa  Road 

21.  Street  of  Ezra 

2.  Nablus  Road 

22.  Gaza  Road 

3.  Jericho  Road 

23.  Constantine's  Way 

4.  Hebron  Road 

24.  Moses  Maimonides  Street 

5.  Mamilla  Road 

25.  Street  of  the  Maccabees 

6.  St.  Paul's  Road 

26. 

7.  Godfrey  de  Bouillon  Street 

27.  Isaiah  Street 

8.  Street  of  the  Prophets 

28.   King  George  V  Avenue 

9.  Tancred  Lane 

29.  St.  John  the  Baptist  Street 

ID.  Suleiman  Road 

30.  Jeremiah  Street 

II.  Allenby  Square 

31- 

12.  Herod's  Way 

32.  Amos  Road 

13.  Nehemiah  Road 

33.  Ben  Yehuda  Street 

14.  Agrippa's  Way  ' 

34.  King  Solomon  Street 

15.  Street  of  Josephus 

35- 

16.  St.  Louis's  Way 

36.  Hezekiah  Street 

17.  Julian's  Way 

37. 

18.  Q.  Melisande's  Way 

38. 

19.  Street  of  Baldwin  I 

39- 

20.  Ibn  Batuta  Street 

40.  St.  George's  Road 

27 


THE   NAMING   OF  THE   STREETS 

THE   NEW   CITY   (WITHOUT   THE   WALLS)— Continued 

41.  St.  Stephen's  Road  46. 

42.  Coeur  de  Lion  Street  47- 

43.  48- 
44-  49- 
45.  50- 


TOWN  PLAN,  PART  II 
51.  Saladin's  Road 


52- 

Al  Mamun's 

Way 

53- 

AI  Mahdi's  Way 

54- 

Al  Walid  Road 

55- 

Al  Malik  Road 

56. 

Omar's  Way 

TOWN  PLAN,  PART 

III 

66. 

Unnamed  for  the  present 

67. 

jj            )) 

68. 

69. 

>) 

JJ 

70. 

)) 

71- 

jy 

72. 

jj 

73- 

)> 

57.  Way  of  Al  Mansur 

58.  Selim  I  Road 

59- 

60.  Qalaun's  Way 

61-65  (numbers   reserved   for   unplanned 
streets) 


74.  Unnamed  for  the  present 

75'  )»  )>  j» 

76.  Ein  Kerim  Road 

77.  Reserved     numbers     for     unplanned 

streets 

7°'  »»  »?  « 

79-  ..  »  .. 

80.  ,,  „  ,, 


28 


New  Industries, 
Educational  Work  and 
Exhibitions 

22.  The  Society,  during  the  two  years  under  review,  concentrated 
its  effort  on  the  three  industries  of  weaving,  ceramics,  and  glass.  The 
inability  of  the  Administration  to  carry  out  the  Society's  plan  for  the 
proposed  Palestine  School  of  Weaving,  whose  centre  was  to  be  in  the 
Suq  al  Qattanin,  determined  the  Council  to  wind  up  its  weaving 
apprentice  contracts.  The  enterprise  of  the  "Jerusalem  looms"  had 
either  to  develop  by  union  with  Mejdel  and  Gaza,  become  a  Palestine 
industry,  or  contract  into  a  purely  Jerusalem  undertaking.  The  latter 
as  an  endowed  school  seemed  inadvisable,  so  it  was  decided  to  cancel 
the  contract  with  Mr.  Batato,  arrange  for  a  certain  number  of  shops 
to  be  leased  direct  to  the  master  weaver,  and  some  of  his  boys,  to  retain 
the  looms  and  plant  for  the  future  school  of  weaving,  and  to  place  out 
all  the  remaining  apprentices. 

23.  In  the  craft  of  ceramics  the  Society,  with  the  aid  of  the 
Department  of  Education,  did  a  good  deal  to  help  the  work  of  Mr. 
Ohanessian  and  the  Armenian  and  Moslem  industry  of  painted  tile 
work  for  the  Dome  of  the  Rock. 

The  pergola  in  the  Citadel  Garden  (Illustration  No.  39)  has  been 
already  referred  to.  This  was  in  part  the  gift  of  an  American  lady. 
Miss  Blandy.  The  names  of  the  streets  are  also  being  painted  in 
ceramics,  and  the  Society  was  in  great  part  responsible  for  the  wedding 
present  of  a  table  centre,  a  miniature  Dome  of  the  Rock  in  blue 
faience,  for  Princess  Mary,  for  which  I  made  the  designs. 

The  method  adopted  in  regard  to  apprenticeship  and  training 
in  the  school  of  ceramics  is  much  the  same  as  it  was  in  the  "Jerusalem 
looms."  The  young  men  and  women  are  indentured  to  learn  the 
craft  as  far  as  possible  right  through.  The  supervision  rests  with  the 
Department  of  Education,  and  the  Department  and  the  Society  con- 
jointly put  up  the  money. 

24.  The  craft  of  the  Hebron  glassblowers  still  hangs  on  by  a 
thread.  The  Society  in  1921  had  a  furnace  erected  in  the  Via  Dolorosa, 
at  the  Dome  of  the  Rock  pottery,  and  got  some  of  the  Hebron  crafts- 
men to  work.  An  example  of  these  experiments  is  shown  below, 
in  the  work  they  did  under  my  direction  at  Government  House  (see 

29 


NEW   INDUSTRIES    AND    EDUCATIONAL  WORK 

Nos.  56  and  57).  Some  ^E.50  or  ;^E.6o  was  spent  in  this  experiment, 
and  it  was  one  well  worth  making.  It  proved  certain  things  essential 
to  our  knowledge  before  the  revival  of  the  craft  of  glass  work  could 
be  seriously  undertaken.  First,  that  this  craft  was  an  integral  part 
of  the  structure  of  Moslem  agricultural  society.  The  men  work 
in  short  but  intense  spells  for  many  hours  at  a  stretch  to  retain  the 
furnace  at  the  necessary  heat,  and  then  alternate  these  periods  with 
long  stretches  of  work  in  the  fields,  adjusting  their  work  at  the  craft 
to  the  Palestine  season  and  the  crops.  It  proved  next,  that  the  furnace, 
for  economy  and  annealing  capacity,  had  to  be  constructed  of  a  certain 
size,  the  unitary  workshop  group  being  five  or  six  men  or  boys  in 
each  ;  and  that  below  this  group  it  could  not  be  made  to  work  econo- 
mically. And  it  proved,  last,  that  the  problem  of  fuel  and  its  transport 
to  Hebron  and  Jerusalem  was  not  yet  mastered.  A  knowledge  of 
these  preliminary  conditions  is  needed  to  determine  the  capital  or  the 
basic  organization  required  for  the  re-establishment  of  the  craft.  The 
necessary  resources  were  not  at  the  Society's  disposal,  but  I  am  con- 
vinced it  can  be  done.  It  is,  first,  a  matter  of  intelligent  administration, 
with  a  little  financial  backing  by  the  Education  Department.  But 
it  must  be  done  soon.  Since  these  lines  were  written  the  craftsmen 
who  conducted  the  Society's  experiment  and  did  for  me  the  work  at 
Government  House  have  left  the  country  in  search  of  work.  There 
is  now,  they  say,  more  "  Baraka,"  that  is  the  blessing  of  the  Lord,  in 
Constantinople  than  in  Palestine. 

25.  The  last  enterprises  of  the  Society  to  be  reviewed  in  these 
pages  are  its  exhibitions  in  the  Citadel.  These  have,  it  is  hoped, 
been  a  help  in  the  education  of  the  community.  There  were  three 
during  the  two  years,  and  all  of  considerable  interest.  The  exhibition 
of  the  year  1921  was  in  part  town  planning  and  the  crafts  encouraged 
by  the  Society,  in  part  ancient  Moslem  art,  in  part  modern  Palestinian 
effort.  In  1922  the  Society  had  a  special  show  of  Mr.  Benton  Fletcher's 
Jerusalem  drawings.  Some  of  these  were  prepared  specially  for  the 
Society,  and  have  been  already  referred  to,  and  two  (Nos.  26  and  31) 
are  shown  in  these  pages.  This  exhibition  was  followed  by  another 
dealing  with  the  crafts  and  industries  of  Palestine,  initiated  by  the 
Society,  but  conducted  and  financed  under  a  special  Commission 
appointed  by  the  High  Commissioner  to  investigate  the  crafts  in 
relation  to  agriculture.     The  data  provided  by  this  exhibition  and  the 

30 


NEW   INDUSTRIES   AND   EDUCATIONAL  WORK 


findings  of  the  Commission  are  of  profound  interest  and  importance 
to  the  future  of  Palestine.  Is  the  life  to  be  agricultural  or  industrial  ? 
Can  it  be  both  ?  If  not,  to  what  extent  is  the  former  to  be  dependent 
upon  western  industrialism  ?  The  whole  Zionist  problem  is  involved 
in  this,  for  it  means  the  life  of  the  Jewish  colonies.  Are  they  going 
to  continue  to  be  dependent  on  outside  support  ?  Will  they  develop 
mechanical  power  intelligently  ?  will  they  practise  by-crafts,  as  the 
Palestinian  peasant  has  done  for  thousands  of  years  ?  Here  are  not 
only  vital  problems  in  the  theory  of  civics,  the  Zionist  question  itself 
is  involved,  and  the  Mandate  for  Palestine. 

Finance 

26.  A  word  in  conclusion  as  to  the  Society's  finance.  The 
Administration  gives  to  the  Society  pound  for  pound  of  what  it 
receives  in  subscriptions  and  donations.  These  during  the  year 
ending  January  1922  amounted  to  ^E.  1,218,  so  that  the  income, 
exclusive  of  special  grants  for  education  or  fresh  subscriptions  and 
donations,  will  for  the  current  year  be  double  that  sum.  As  this 
record  is  taken  up  to  the  end  of  the  second  year  of  the  Civil  Adminis- 
tration, i.e.  July  I,  1922,  it  is  only  possible  to  give  complete  accounts 
to  the  end  of  the  year  1921.  This  I  do  below,  showing  how  the  money 
'received  by  the  Society  was  accounted  for.  An  analysis  of  the  monthly 
outlays  is  shown  in  the  Appendix,  No.  3. 

CASH  ACCOUNT 

Payments 


Receipts 
Balance  in  hand  from  January 

I,  1921       ••  •• 

By  grants,  subscriptions,  and 

receipts  from  all  sources  . . 


i:E.857 
5,268 
6,125 


By  total  expenditure  for  the 
year 

Balance  in  hand  on  Decem- 
ber 31,  1921 


££.5,276 
„       849 


6,125 


The  Society  had  liabilities  in  respect  of  payments  still  due  before 
next  30  June,  contracts  with  its  apprentices,  etc.,  amounting  to  about 
jTE.joo.  It  had  assets  in  the  capitalized  value  of  its  rent-bearing 
properties,  its  stocks  of  iron,  wood,  books,  trees,  nursery,  glass,  and 
museum  objects,  but  of  these  none  except  the  books  and  the  glass  are 
to  be  considered  as  marketable. 

C.    R.    ASHBEE. 

31 


Porte  S^Estienm 


Josaphat 


Fbrte  David 


Fbsteme  de  laTannene 


^Porte  du  Mont  Syon 
Plan   oj  the   Holy    City  in   the    Thirteenth    Century. 


Fbrte  de 
Belcayre 


No.  45. 


L'Etat  de  la  Cite  de 
Jerusalem  au  XIP  Siecle 

Par  le  Rev.  Pere  F.  M.  Abel,  O.P. 

Pour  se  rendre  compte  de  la  physionomie  de  la  Jerusalem  m^dievale 
il  faut  joindre  a  la  lecture  des  itineraires  celle  des  descriptions,  des 
chartes   et   des   plans   de  I'epoque   des   Croisades.     Les   itineraires   ou 
recits  de  voyage  ne  s'interessant  guere  qu'aux  choses  du  p^lerinage 
ne  touchent  qu'en  passant  i  I'etat  de  la  ville.     Leur  t^moignage  n'est 
pas  a  d^daigner,  mais  ils  demandent  h  etre  completes  par  les  esquisses 
techniques  comme  celle  de  "  la  Citez  de  Jherusalem  "  et  les  nombreuses 
allusions   des   actes   publics   que   confirment    dans   les    grandes   lignes 
les  releves  graphiques  executes  aux  XIP  et  XIIP  siecles.     La  presente 
description  a  pour  objet  de  dresser  le  cadre  de  la  ville  sainte  d'apres 
les  conclusions  tirees  de  I'etude  et  de  la  comparaison  des  documents 
entre  eux.     Si  pour  I'une  ou  I'autre  des   identifications  proposdes  et 
qu'on  trouvera  dans  le  plan  ci-joint  il  est  difficile  d'arriver  h.  une  solution 
certaine,  on  s'est  arrete  a  I'approximation  la  plus  stricte  dans  les  cas 
douteux,  qui  sont  d'ailleurs  en  infime  minorite.     C'est  ainsi  que  nous 
pouvons  presenter  comme  un  resultat  acquis  I'ordre  des  portes  et  le 
reseau  des  rues  principales  a  I'interieur  des  remparts,  car  il  n'entre  pas 
dans  notre  dessein  de  franchir  les  limites  de  I'enceinte  pour  battre  les 
chemins  de  la  banlieue.      Cet  apergu  suffira  pourtant  a  jeter  quelque 
lumiere  sur  la  vie  civile  de  cette  periode  lointaine  et  fournira  peut-etre 
quelque  inspiration  en  vue  de  la  restauration  de  la  Jerusalem  moderne 
qui  n'est   autre  que  la   cite   medievale,   degradee,   dechue   et   ruinee. 
II  ne  sera  pas  sans  interet  de  constater  que  les  denominations  passees 
dans  I'usage  d'alors  se  trouvaient  logiquement  fondees  soit  sur  d'ancien- 
nes  traditions,  soit  sur  la  presence  d'un  edifice  connu,  soit  sur  la  proxi- 
mite  d'une  corporation  ou  d'une  colonic,  constatation  qui  nous  fait 
regretter    davantage   les    modifications  imposees    a   I'Onomastique    de 
Jerusalem  par  la  topographic  arbitraire  mise  en  vigueur  au  cours  du 
XV^    siecle.     Afin    d'obtenir    plus    de    clarte    dans    I'exposition    nous 
traiterons  successivement  des  portes  de  la  ville,  des  quartiers,  des  rues, 

G  33 


L'ETAT  DE  LA  CITE   DE  JERUSALEM  AU  XIP  SIECLE 

des  marches,  des  hospices,  des  bains,  des  moulins  et  des  fours,  sans 
aborder  la  question  des  sanctuaires  autrement  qu'en  relation  avec  les 
voies  auxquelles  ils  communiquent  leur  vocable. 

Partes. — En  appelant  Porie  David  I'entr^e  occidentale  les  mddi^- 
vaux  ne  faisaient  que  conserver  une  appellation  byzantine  provenant 
de  la  proximite  de  la  Citadelle  qui  etait  connue  sous  le  nom  populaire 
de  Tour  de  David.  La  Poterne  Saint-Ladre,  ou  Saint  Lazare,  que 
Ton  rencontrait  au  nord  tirait  son  nom  du  voisinage  de  la  Maladrerie, 
ou  leproserie  situee  non  loin  de  Tangle  nord-ouest  de  la  ville.  Cette 
issue  secondaire  qui  a  ete  retrouvde  muree  dans  le  jardin  des  Peres 
Franciscains  etait  encore  en  usage  aux  environs  de  1 500  avec  le  nom 
de  "  Porte  du  Couvent  des  Serbes."  Les  Serbes  possedaient  alors  le 
monastere  de  Saint-Michel  contigu  a  Saint-Sauveur,  C'est  aussi  en 
conformity  avec  I'usage  byzantin  que  le  Moyen-age  donnait  a  la  porte  du 
nord  (bab  el-'Amoud)  le  nom  de  Porte  Saint-^tienne,  parce  qu'elle 
s'ouvrait  dans  la  direction  du  lieu  oii  la  tradition  primitive  avait  plac6 
le  martyre  du  premier  diacre  et  sur  lequel  Eudocie  avait  acheve  la 
basilique  fondee  par  le  patriarche  Juvenal.  Au  XIP  siecle,  une  chapelle 
perpetuait  ce  meme  souvenir.  Ce  n'est  que  bien  plus  tard  que  ce 
vocable  fut  transf^re  a  la  porte  de  Test  par  quelques  Occidentaux,  sans 
que  toutefois  fut  abolie  la  mdmoire  de  I'ancienne  localisation.  Au 
XVIP  siecle,  le  topographe  Quaresmius  sera  contraint  de  deployer 
toute  sa  casuistique  pour  resoudre  ce  probleme  :  Porta  sancti  Stephani 
quomodo  cum  orientalis  sit  aquilonaris  did  possit  ?  Comment  expliquer 
qu'une  porte  que  les  t^moins  antiques  placent  au  nord  puisse  se  trouver 
^  I'orient  ?  La  solution  donnee  est  pitoyable,  mais  la  confusion  ne 
s'en  est  pas  moins  poursuivie  jusqu'a  nos  jours  en  vertu  de  la  tendance 
moutonniere  des  drogmans,  des  imprimeurs  de  cartes  postales  et  des 
dresseurs  de  plans  ignorant  I'histoire  et  enclins  au  moindre  effort. 
Les  Juifs,  si  Ton  en  croit  Benjamin  de  Tudele,  nommaient  Porte 
d' Abraham  la  porte  septentrionale,  reservant  le  vocable  de  David  ^ 
notre  moderne  Porte  de  Jaffa  suivant  la  coutume  generale.  II  est  i 
remarquer,  en  effet,  qu'un  plan  du  Moyen-age  place  dans  les  environs 
une  eglise  Saint-Abraham. 

Dans  la  muraille  qui  constituait  un  renforcement  de  Tangle  nord-est 
du  rempart,  vis-a-vis  de  la  breche  par  laquelle  Godefroy  de  Bouillon 
avait  penetre  dans  la  ville,  les  documents  signalent  la  presence  de  la 
Poterne  Sainte-Madeleine  qui    ne  donnait    pas    immediatement    dans 

34 


L'ETAT  DE  LA  CITE  DE  JERUSALEM  AU  XIP  SIECLE 

la  campagne  mais  dans  un  espace  resserre  entre  deux  murs — "  dont  on 
ne  povoit  mie  issir  au  chans,  mais  entre  II  murs  aloit  on."  Elle  avoisi- 
nait  I'eglise  jacobite  de  Sainte-Madeleine.  Quant  a  I'entree  orientale, 
on  I'appelait  communement  Porte  de  Josaphat  tant  chez  les  chrdtiens 
que  chez  les  juifs,  en  raison  de  sa  position  sur  le  bord  de  la  valine  de 
Josaphat.  Les  itineraires  grecs  lui  donneront  jusqu'a  nos  jours  le 
vocable  de  Porte  de  Gethsemani,  manifestant  ainsi  que  toute  autre 
appellation  leur  est  etrangere. 

La  denomination  de  Poterne  de  la  Tannerie  attribute  ^  la  moderne 
bab  el-Mogharbeh  venait  de  ce  qu'elle  s'ouvrait  vers  la  piscine  de 
Siloe  dont  I'eau  etait  reconnue  excellente  pour  tanner  les  cuirs.  A  la 
preparation  des  peaux  qui  se  pratiquait  encore  au  XV*  siecle  en  cet 
endroit,  il  faut  ajouter  la  buanderie  et  I'irrigation  des  jardins,  car  I'eau 
de  Siloe,  peu  recherchee  comme  boisson,  ne  servait  guere  qu'a  I'industrie 
et  a  I'arrosage — "  De  celle  aigue,  tanoit  Ton  les  cuirs  de  la  cite,  et  si 
en  lavoit  Ton  les  dras,  et  en  abevreit  Ton  les  jardins,  qui  estoient  desoz 
en  la  valee."  La  Porte  de  Mont-Syon  se  trouvait  directement  a  I'extrd- 
mite  des  deux  rues  paralleles  qui  viennent  du  centre  de  la  ville,  de 
sorte  que  pour  plus  de  commodite  I'abbaye  du  Mont-Syon  s'dtait 
fait  accorder  le  droit  de  percer  une  porte  suppl^mentaire  ^  I'aboutisse- 
ment  de  la  rue  des  Armeniens.  Cette  derniere  etait  dite  Porte  de 
Belcayre,  soit  a  cause  du  grand  square  de  Tangle  sud-ouest  du  rempart 
(Bellum  Quadrum),  soit  a  cause  de  I'installation  des  gens  de  Baucaire 
aux  abords  de  cet  angle.  On  sait  en  efFet  que  les  gens  de  Raymond  de 
Saint-Gilles,  apres  avoir  assiege  la  ville  de  ce  cote,  avaient  du  occuper 
cette  region, 

Quartiers. — S'il  est  difficile  de  tracer  une  ligne  de  demarcation 
bien  definie  entre  les  differents  groupes  ethniques  qui  peuplaient 
alors  I'interieur  de  la  ville,  il  n'est  pas  impossible  d'aboutir  a  une 
repartition  generale  tout  en  admettant  sur  certains  points  une  com- 
penetration  inevitable  due  aux  hasards  de  I'installation  qui  suivit  la 
conquete,  a  des  necessites  commerciales  et  aux  exigences  de  I'association 
corporative  ou  de  souvenirs  religieux. 

Deux  quartiers  considerables  se  partageaient  le  nord  de  la  ciii  : 
celui  du  Patriarche  limite  par  la  rue  David  et  la  rue  Saint-Etienne,  et 
celui  des  Syriens  ou  Chretiens  indigenes  sur  la  colline  du  Bezetha. 
Le  Quartier  du  Patriarche  repondait  au  quartier  chrdtien  organist 
sous   Constantin   Monomaque.     II   contenait   une   quantitd   de   petits 

35 


L'ETAT  DE  LA  CITE  DE  JERUSALEM  AU  XIP  SIECLE  . 

monasteres  grecs,  et  autres  dont  les  vocables  ont  persist^  jusqu'^  nos  I 

jours.     Autour  du  Saint-Sepulcre  se  pressaient  le  palais  du  Patriarche  " 

ct  les  batiments  du  chapitre  des  Chanoines  et,  non  loin  de  la,  au  midi, 
rimposante  maison  des  Hospitallers,  ou  Chevaliers  de  Saint-Jean 
et  les  deux  abbayes  benedictines :  Sainte-Marie  Latine  et  Sainte- 
Marie  la  Grande.  Ce  quartier  ^tait  done  en  grande  partie 
eccl^siastique. 

Les  Chretiens  de  langue  arabe  occupaient  la  portion  de  la  ville 
comprise  entre  le  Haram  et  le  rempart  septentrional,  quartier  d^signd 
sous  le  nom  de  yuiverie,  sans  doute  parce  que  precedemment  il  abritait 
la  petite  colonie  juive  de  Jerusalem.  Mais  on  ne  la  trouve  plus  1^ 
au  XIF  siecle.  Les  deux  cents  juifs  qui  exercent  le  metier  de  teinturiers 
dont  ils  ont  le  monopole  sont  alors  confines  dans  un  coin  de  la  ville  sous 
la  Tour  de  David. 

Les  Templiers  et  les  moines  de  I'Abbaye  du  Temple  se  partageaient 
I'esplanade  du  Haram  oil  s'elevaient  leurs  residences,  leur  arsenal  avec 
les  ^curies  dans  les  substructions  oil  Ton  parvenait  par  des  portes  pra- 
tiquees  dans  le  mur  meridional.  Des  jardins  occupaient  les  parties  non 
dallies. 

Au  sud  de  la  ville  les  Hermins  ou  Armdniens  sont  group^s  ^ 
I'ombre  de  Teglise  de  Saint-Jacques.  Les  Europeens  ou  Francs  habitent 
le  quartier  juif  actuel,  le  centre  de  la  ville  et  les  abords  du  Haram. 
Dans  la  rue  du  Mont-Syon  les  chartes  signalent  les  habitations  de 
Guillaume  Angevin,  de  Marie  Lachevere,  de  Jean  de  Lisbonne,  des 
sieurs  Turoz,  Mahafe,  Litart,  Jean  Raimont  ;  dans  la  rue  Saint- 
Martin  :  Richard  Capons,  Pierre  Baron,  Guillaume  Tortuz,  Etienne 
de  Cahors,  et  dans  les  memes  parages  le  Syrien  Seyr  et  le  medecin 
Bulfarage.  On  retrouve  aussi  des  noms  fran^ais  dans  la  rue  du  Temple 
et  sur  la  ligne  nord  du  Haram.  Les  Allemands  ont  une  rue  et  un 
hospice  au  plus  haut  point  du  quartier  des  synagogues  actuel.  Des 
Lombards  et  des  Espagnols  habitent  aux  environs  du  serail  turc. 
Benjamin  de  Tudele  est  frappe  de  la  multiplicite  des  langues  qui  se 
parlent,  et  Jean  de  Wiirzbourg  se  plaint  qu'on  ait  fait  la  part  trop  petite 
aux  Allemands  dans  une  ville  qu'occupent  "  Francs,  Lorrains,  Nor- 
mands,  Proven^aux,  Auvergnats,  Italiens,  Espagnols  et  Bourguignons." 
Parmi  les  privileges  accordes  par  le  roi  aux  cit^s  maritimes  on  compte 
la  concession  d'une  rue  aux  Genois,  aux  Venitiens,  aux  Pisans  et  aux 
Marseillais.     Les  chartes  mentionnent  en  passant  une  rue  d'Espagne  ; 

36 


L'ETAT  DE  LA  CITE  DE  JERUSALEM  AU  XIP  SIECLE 

dans  la  foule  des  signatures  de  contrats  nous  remarquons  celles  de 
plusieurs  Anglais. 

Rues. — De  la  Porte  David  au  Haram  on  suivait  la  rue  David  et 
la  rue  du  Temple  desquelles  se  detachaient  perpendiculairement  vers 
le  sud  la  rue  des  Hermins  (Armeniens),  la  rue  du  Mont-Syon,  la  rue  de 
PArc  Judas  et  la  rue  aux  Allemands,  ces  deux  dernieres  unies  par  la 
rue  Saint-Martin.  Du  cote  septentrional  de  I'artere  David-Temple 
partaient  la  rue  du  Patriarche,  et  le  triple  bazar  :  rues  aux  Herbes, 
rue  Malcuisinat  et  rue  Couverte  dont  nous  avons  trait^  au  volume 
precedent  (No.  65),  puis  la  rue  Saint-Julien  et  la  rue  des  Pelletiers 
qui  passant  sous  la  rue  du  Temple  conduisait  vers  la  Poterne  de  la 
Tannerie.  Ce  passage  couvert  nomme  le  Pont  a  ^t^  condamn^  sous 
les  Mamelouks. 

Au  centre  de  la  ville  la  rue  des  Paumiers,  oil  des  Syriens  vendaient 
des  cierges  et  des  palmes  que  les  pelerins  rapportaient  comme  souvenir 
de  voyage,  aboutissait  au  parvis  du  Saint-Sepulcre,  tandis  que  la  rue 
du  Sepulcre  passait  au  nord  de  la  basilique  desservant  le  prieure  et  le 
patriarcat.  Ces  deux  rues  avaient  leur  point  de  depart  sur  la  grande 
artere  dite  rue  Saint-Etienne,  aujourd'hui  Khan  ez-Zeit.  Au  cot^ 
oppose,  c'est-a-dire  a  Test,  s'amor9aient  la  rue  du  Marechal  (i)  qui  se 
confondait  avec  la  rue  Sainte-Anastasie,  la  rue  Saint-Jean  PEvan- 
geliste  et  la  rue  Saint-Cosme  appel^e  ^  faire  partie,  plus  tard,  de  la  voie 
Douloureuse. 

La  rue  de  Josaphat  aboutissait  a  la  porte  du  meme  nom.  La  rue 
du  Repos  tirait  son  nom  de  la  proximite  du  moustier  erige  sous  ce 
vocable  a  I'Antonia. 

II  y  a  plus  de  difficulte  a  identifier  les  rues  concedees  aux  cites 
maritimes  ou  a  d'autres  nationalites  comme  la  rue  d'Espagne  que 
Ton  trouve  en  relation  avec  Saint-Jean  I'Evangeliste.  Ainsi  en  va-t-il 
pour  celles  qui  ne  sont  designees  que  par  le  nom  d'un  notable  qui  y 
possedait  sa  demeure  telles  que  la  rue  de  Girard  Lissehonette,  la  rue  de 
Romain  du  Puy,  la  rue  de  Lauremer,  etc. 

Marches. — A  I'interieur  de  la  Porte  David  s'etendait  la  Place 
au  6le,  vaste  espace  reserve  a  la  vente  des  cereales  et  dont  la  Fonde, 
ou  khan  servant  de  Chambre  de  commerce,  n'etait  pas  ^loignee.  Les 
villes  de  la  cote  n'etaient  pas  les  seules  a  jouir  de  cette  institution 
composee  de  jures  Syriens  et  Francs.     Un  acte  d'Amaury  I,  en  1173, 

(i)  La  rue  Marzban  de  Moudjir  ed-Din. 

37 


L'ETAT  DE  LA  CITE  DE  JERUSALEM  AU  XIP  SIECLE 

mentionne  la  Fonde  de  Naplouse  "  Funda  Neapolitana,"  une  charte 
de  1 1 14,  celle  de  Jerusalem  (i). 

A  I'ombre  des  abbayes  du  Mauristan  se  trouvait  le  Marche  principal 
"  ou  on  vendoit  les  oes  (oeufs),  les  fromages,  les  poules  et  les  oisiaux  "  ; 
les  vendeurs  de  poissons  avaient  egalement  leur  place.  Tout  autour 
s'alignaient  les  echoppes  des  orfevres  latins  et  des  orfevres  syriens. 
Le  triple  bazar  parallele,  a  peu  de  distance  de  la,  abritait  les  marchands 
de  legumes,  les  cuisiniers-traitants,  les  coiffeurs  et  les  drapiers.  Deux 
banques,  I'une  a  chaque  extremite,  facilitaient  les  transactions :  le 
Change  Latin  et  le  Change  Syrien. 

Bouchers,  ecorcheurs,  cordonniers  bordaient  la  rue  du  Temple 
au  sud  de  laquelle,  dans  les  terrains  vagues,  on  trouvait  la  Biijierle  ou 
marche  aux  bestiaux.  Dans  la  rue  voisine  les  pelletiers  preparaient 
peaux  et  fourrures.  Plus  proche  du  Saint-Sepulcre  les  Syriens  vendaient 
leurs  draps  et  fabriquaient  des  cierges  sous  une  roue  voutee.  Les 
boutiques  des  bazars  etaient  designees  sous  le  nom  de  stationes.  Le 
Saint-Sepulcre  en  fit  construire  de  nouvelles  au  Khan  ez-Zeit  ;  Sainte 
Anne  et  le  Temple  en  possedaient  au  centre  de  la  ville. 

Moulins  et  Fours. — Un  recensement  des  revenus  de  I'Hopital 
(i  170)  fait  allusion  a  un  moulin  k  huile  de  la  rue  Saint-Etienne  (KhSn 
ez-Zeit,  ou  khan  de  I'huile) — molendinum  olivarum  in  ruga  S.  Stephani. 
Des  moulins  a  ble  se  trouvaient  en  ville  concedes  a  I'abbaye  de  Josaphat. 
Les  Hospitallers  avaient  aussi  le  leur.  Celui  de  Saint-Lazare  pres 
la  Tour  de  David  fut  enleve  par  la  reine  Melissende  en  i  151  comme 
nuisible  a  la  Porte  et  a  la  Tour.  Sur  le  cote  droit  de  la  rue  du  Temple 
on  voyait  la  maison  du  minotier  Leger. 

Les  fours  sont  dissemines  par  toute  la  ville.  Sauf  deux  qui  sont 
la  propriete  des  Hospitallers  et  un  appartenant  a  la  Latine,  ils  relevent 
tous  du  Saint-Sepulcre.  On  les  signale  dans  la  rue  David,  devant  la 
porte  de  Saint-Jacques,  devant  la  residence  de  Rohard  le  chatelain  de 
la  Tour,  en  face  de  I'eglise  Saint-Martin,  dans  la  rue  du  Mont-Syon, 
vis-a-vis  de  I'eglise  Saint-Thomas  des  Allemands,  devant  Saint-Gilles 
vers  le  Pont,  devant  la  Boucherie,  vers  la  Tannerie,  dans  les  rues 
Malcuisinat,  d'Anastasie  et  du  Repos,  trois  au  quartier  syrien  (Juiverie)  : 
^  Saint-Helie,  a  Sainte-Agnes,  et  celui  de  Martin  Karaon  ;  d'autres 
dans  les  rues  de  Girard  de  Lisbonne,  de  Tremailes  et  de  Saint-Etienne, 

(i)  Le  patriarche  percevait  les  dimes  de  la  Fonde,  qui  appartenait  a  son  quartier.     Un 
plan  medieval  situe  une  eglise  Saint-Georges  in  Funda  pres  de  la  Place  au  ble. 

38 


L'ETAT  DE  LA  CITE  DE  JERUSALEM  AU  XIP  SIECLE 

pres  de  Saint-Chariton,  devant  la  porte  du  Saint-S^pulcre,  pres  de 
Saint-Pastor. 

Hospices,  Bains,  etc. — Les  pelerins  latins  trouvaient  aisement  i 
loger  dans  les  vastes  salles  de  I'Hopital  Saint-Jean  qui  recevait  aussi 
les  pauvres  et  les  malades.  Les  abbayes  avaient  egalement  leurs  hotel- 
leries  ou  les  voyageurs  etaient  heberges.  Un  plan  de  1180  marque 
deux  tavernes  sur  la  rue  du  Mont-Syon.  Les  Hongrois  avaient  un 
pied-a-terre  a  quelque  distance  au  nord  du  Saint-Sepulcre,  les  Alle- 
mands  a  Sainte-Marie  sur  la  rue  qui  portait  leur  nom.  Les  Orientaux 
devaient  se  loger  dans  leurs  quartiers,  autour  de  leurs  eglises,  les 
Armeniens  a  Saint-Jacques,  les  Jacobites  a  Sainte-Madeleine,  les 
Grecs  a  la  metochie  de  Saint-Sabas  pres  la  Tour  de  David  ou  encore  a 
I'hospice  dependant  du  monastere  du  Sinai. 

Une  bulle  de  11 79  fait  mention  des  bains  [balnea)  que  possede 
I'abbaye  du  Mont-Syon  a  I'interieur  des  murs.  Les  restes  d'une 
installation  balneaire  retrouves  en  1870  du  cote  de  bab  es-Silsileh 
nous  reportent  au  bain  signale  en  1229  a  proximite  de  la  Boucherie. 
Les  bains  du  Patriarche  alimentes  par  I'eau  du  birket  Hammam  el- 
Batralc  (lac  des  bains  du  Patriarche)  sont  encore  bien  connus  quoique 
abandonnes.  Aux  abords  de  I'eglise  Saint-Martin  il  existait  aussi 
un  bain.     Les  autres  n'ont  aucune  mention  speciale. 

La  porcherie  du  Patriarche  confinait  des  terrains  vagues  situds 
vers  Tangle  nord-ouest  du  cote  de  la  Tour  de  Tancrede. 

Pres  de  la  Porte  Saint-fitienne  on  marque  xin  palatium  appartenant 
^  Sainte-Marie  Latine.  Quant  au  palais  royal  et  a  la  citadelle  nous 
n'avons  rien  a  ajouter  ^  ce  qui  a  ete  dit  au  volume  precedent,  No.  61. 

Les  voutes  de  certaines  rues  apparaissent  a  maintes  reprises  dans 
les  chartes,  en  particulier  celles  du  Change  de  I'Hopital,  de  Robert, 
de  Roger  I'Anglais  sur  la  rue  du  Temple,  de  Sainte-Marie  la  Petite 
dans  la  rue  des  Drapiers,  et  sous  les  maisons  de  Robert  le  Hongrois. 
"  Presque  toutes  les  rues,  ecrit  Theodoric  en  1172,  sont  construites^ 
dans  le  has  avec  de  grandes  dalles,  au-dessus  la  plupart  ont  des  voutes 
de  pierre,  percees  de  jours  de  distance  en  distance.  Les  maisons 
elevees  en  appareil  soigne  se  terminent  non  pas  avec  des  toits  inclines 
comme  chez  nous,  mais  avec  des  terrasses  planes,  propres  a  recevoir  Teau 
des  pluies  que  Ton  recueille  dans  des  citernes  pour  I'usage  des  habitants 
qui  n'usent  pas  d'autre  eau.  Les  bois  propres  ^  I'industrie  ou  au  chaufFage 
sont  chers,  car  le  Liban,  qui  seul  abonde  en  cedres,  en  cypres  et  en  pins, 

39' 


L'ETAT  DE  LA  CITE  DE  JERUSALEM  AU  XIP  SIECLE 

est  trop  doigne  et  les  embuscades  des  ennemis  en  rendent  I'acces 
impossible."  Les  observations  de  Rey  (Les  Colonies  Franques  de 
Syrie,  p.  238)  sur  I'etat  forestier  de  la  Syrie  et  de  la  Palestine  corrigent 
ce  que  cette  derniere  reflexion  d'un  voyageur  de  passage  presente  de 
trop  absolu. 

F.  M.  Abel, 
Prof,  a  I'Ecole  Biblique  et  Archeologique  de 
Saint-Etienne,  Jerusalem. 


40 


Extracts  from  the  Diary  of  a 
Franciscan  Pilgrim  OF  THE  i6th  Century 

Contributed  by  H.  C.   Luke 

Note. — The  hitherto  unpublished  Latin  manuscript,  from  which  I  translate  the 
following  extracts  concerning  Jerusalem,  came  into  my  possession  some  twelve  years 
ago.  The  manuscript,  which  is  entitled  "  A  Pilgrimage  from  Rome  to  Jerusalem,"  is 
unsigned  and  undated,  but,  from  internal  evidence,  must  have  been  written  somewhere 
about  1560.  All  that  the  manuscript  reveals  of  its  author  is  that  he  was  a  member  of 
the  Franciscan  Order  and  a  native  of  Italy. — H.  C.  L. 

"  Having  arrived  in  the  Holy  City  of  Jerusalem  we  were  lodged 
with  the  friars  of  St.  Francis,  on  Mount  Zion,  although  not  in  the 
convent,  from  which  our  friars  have  been  expelled.  The  Turks 
and  the  Moors  occupy  that  place  as  a  mosque,  together  with  the  Holy 
Czenaculum  and  the  Chapel  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  which  descended 
upon  the  Apostles  on  the  day  of  Pentecost.  The  sites  of  other  miracles, 
which  took  place  on  Mount  Zion,  are  also  in  the  hands  of  the  Turks  ; 
and  then  they  took  the  C^enaculum  and  the  Chapel  of  the  Holy  Ghost, 
and,  eight  years  later,  the  cloister.  In  the  year  1552  they  seized,  a 
little  at  a  time,  the  whole  of  the  monastery  and  large  church  which 
was  situated  at  the  side  of  the  Csnaculum,  on  the  very  spot  where 
Christ  said  to  Thomas,  Infer  manum  tuam.  Behind  the  convent  there 
is  a  stone,  set  in  a  wall  so  that  it  may  not  be  lost,  which  is  said  to  have 
been  transported  by  an  angel  from  Mount  Sinai.  Close  by  the  place 
where  stood  this  church  are  many  other  holy  sites,  such  as  the  place 
where  the  Virgin  Mary  passed  from  this  life  to  the  other  ;  where  she 
was  anointed  ;  where  the  Apostle  John  the  Evangelist  celebrated  mass. 
Some  say  that  the  Virgin  Mary  lived  in  these  buildings  for  fourteen 
years  after  Christ's  Ascension.  Here,  too,  is  the  place  where  St.  James 
the  Less  was  elected  Bishop  of  Jerusalem  ;  the  place  where  the  lot  for 
the  Apostolate  fell  upon  Matthias  ;  where  Christ  sent  the  Apostles 
out  to  preach  ;  where  St.  Stephen  the  Protomartyr  was  buried  by  his 
followers  after  he  had  been  stoned,  although  his  body,  with  that  of  St. 
Lawrence,  lies  in  Rome,  without  the  walls.  Many  other  wonders 
took  place  in  this  church,  of  which  vestiges  still  remain.     The  Casna- 

H  41 


DIARY   OF   A   FRANCISCAN   PILGRIM 

culum  and  the  Chapel  of  the  Holy  Ghost  were  at  the  side  of  the  said 
church,  somewhat  higher  up.  We  there  observed  a  stone  commemo- 
rating the  spasm  of  the  Blessed  Virgin,  who  was  as  though  dead  when 
she  saw  her  Son  despised  upon  the  cross.  This  stone  was  preserved 
and  carried  into  the  said  monastery  ;  and,  so  that  it  should  not  be 
lost,  the  friars  took  care  to  place  it  in  the  lintel  of  one  of  the  doors  of 
the  monastery. 

"  Beyond  Mount  Zion,  by  the  city  wall,  is  to  be  seen  the  place 
where  the  Jews  wished  to  stop  the  coffin  containing  the  body  of  the 
Blessed  Virgin  when  the  Apostles  were  carrying  her  to  burial  in  the 
Valley  of  Jehoshaphat  ;  but,  as  they  did  so,  their  arms  and  hands 
became  rigid.  At  that  time  this  place  and  the  Mount  were  within 
the  city.  Ascending  in  this  direction  we  found  the  cave  where  Peter 
wept  bitterly  after  having  denied  Jesus  Christ.  From  this  place  is 
seen  the  brook.  Kidron,  which  is  now  spanned  by  a  small  stone  bridge. 
From  this  bridge,  towards  the  upper  part  of  the  valley,  begins  the 
Valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  which  is  not  very  long  nor  very  wide  :  it  is 
perhaps  a  mile  in  length  and  a  stone's  throw,  or  perhaps  a  little  more, 
in  width.  Below  the  bridge  is  the  Valley  of  Siloam.  In  this  brook 
the  poor  friars  have  been  living,  since  their  expulsion  in  1552,  in  the 
place  where  stood  their  bakery.  Here  they  celebrate,  eat,  and  sleep, 
and  bake  the  bread  for  themselves  and  for  the  religious  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre  and  of  Bethlehem.  These  are  things  that  would  provoke 
tears  if  they  were  taken  more  deeply  into  consideration  by  our  superiors 
and  by  the  Pope.  If  the  Almighty  had  not  provided,  everything 
would  have  been  taken  away  from  them.  The  monastery  of  Mount 
Zion  stands  outside  the  city  ;  we  were  accommodated  in  a  place  close 
to  it,  also  outside  the  city,  because  the  Turk,  in  the  year  1548,  caused 
the  city  to  be  enclosed  within  a  new  wall,  changing  the  line  of  the 
old  one.  Thus  the  city  has  been  contracted  on  the  south,  where  is 
Mount  Zion,  and  enlarged  towards  the  north  ;  and  so  the  convent  of 
Mount  Zion,  which  was  formerly  within  the  city,  is  now  outside  it. 
The  converse  is  the  case  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  which  once  was  without, 
but  is  now  within,  the  city,  together  with  Mount  Calvary. 

"  Having  obtained  permission  from  the  Saracen  monks  who, 
against  money,  give  permission  to  enter  by  night  the  convent  of  Mount 
Zion,  and  having  received  the  keys,  we  were  able,  together  with  the 
monks,  to  visit  the  Holy  Csnaculum,  where  Jesus  Christ  supped  with 
42 


DIARY   OF   A   FRANCISCAN   PILGRIM 

His  disciples,  where  He  instituted  the  Sacrament  of  the  Eucharist, 
and  where  He  washed  the  feet  of  the  Apostles,  There  is  still  to  be  seen 
the  stone  marking  the  place  where  Jesus  pronounced  that  divine  dis- 
course after  the  supper  (John  xiii.,  sqq.)  ;  now  the  Casnaculum  is  a 
Saracen  mosque.  Above  the  Casnaculum  is  the  Chapel  of  the  Holy- 
Ghost.  In  the  middle  is  a  wall  which  the  Saracens  have  discovered. 
The  Csenaculum  is  eleven  paces  long  and  seven  paces  wide.  Below 
the  Casnaculum  we  saw  the  cell  where  the  Virgin  Mary  lived  for  several 
years  after  the  ascension  of  Christ  into  heaven,  and  another,  which 
housed  St.  John  the  Evangelist.  David  and  Solomon  are  said  to  lie 
buried  in  an  underground  place  ;  we  know  from  Holy  Writ  that  their 
sepulchre  is  on  Mount  Zion  (3  Kings  ii.  and  xi.  :  Sepuitus  est  in  ctuitate 
David  pair  is  sui).  For  this  reason  the  Saracens  consider  us  unworthy 
of  [owning]  these  places,  where  lie  buried  their  Patriarchs  David  and 
Solomon  ;  for  they  hold  the  Patriarchs  in  great  esteem,  making  them 
to  be  descended  from  the  race  of  Mohammed.  On  this  account  they 
took  away  the  holy  monastery,  having  obtained  it  from  the  Grand 
Turk.  In  the  year  of  the  capture  of  the  island  of  Rhodes  [1521] 
there  was  only  water  in  the  brook  when  it  rained.  At  the  brook  is  a 
tomb,  which  some  say  is  that  of  Absalom,  others  that  of  King  Jehosha- 
phat,  whence  the  valley  is  called  the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat.  Close  to 
it  is  the  valley  and  the  garden  of  Gethsemane,  and,  near  by  in  the 
Valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  the  tomb  of  the  Blessed  Virgin  Mary,  within 
a  church.  Twenty  paces  from  this  church,  on  Olivet,  is  a  cave  where 
Christ  prayed  many  times  and  sweated  drops  of  blood  for  us.  It  is 
a  holy  underground  place,  down  which  one  descends  eight  steps  ; 
almost  in  the  middle  is  an  open  hole  and  within  are  pillars  carved  of 
the  very  rock  of  the  cave.  Here  mass  is  said  at  times,  especially  in 
Holy  Week.  In  these  places  there  are  many  indulgences.  By  the 
entrance  to  Gethsemane  is  the  place  where  Christ  left  the  eight  apostles 
and  took  with  Him  the  other  three,  namely  Peter,  James,  and  John, 
and  after  a  little  while  enjoined  them  to  stop  and  watch  while  He  went 
to  the  aforesaid  cave  and  prayed  to  the  Father. 


"  Before  the  entrance  to  the  Holy  Sepulchre  each  pilgrim  pays  nine 
castellani  ;  then  come  four  or  five  Turkish  officials  to  open  the  gate, 
together  with  their  scribe,  and  when  they  have  taken  the  names  of 

43 


DIARY   OF  A   FRANCISCAN   PILGRIM 

the  pilgrims  and  of  their  countries  and  have  increased  the  amount  of 
the  fee,  they  open  the  gate  with  much  to-do  with  their  keys,  taking 
away  the  seal.  Having  entered,  we  saluted  the  religious  who  live 
therein,  and,  all  together,  preceded  by  the  cross,  went  in  procession 
to  visit  the  holy  places  in  this  great  church,  the  friars  at  every  holy 
place  saying  the  appropriate  prayers,  followed  by  an  antiphon.  The 
Turks  then  closed  and  sealed  the  gate  and  went  away,  not  returning  until 
the  next  day  or  two  days  after.  In  the  meantime  the  pilgrims  consoled 
themselves  with  many  visits  to  the  holy  places,  above  all  to  the  Holy 
Sepulchre  of  Christ,  a  spot  worthy  of  all  veneration.  .  .  .  This 
sepulchre  is  built  from  east  to  west,  for,  when  the  sun  rises,  it  enters 
by  the  larger  chapel  through  the  aforesaid  door  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre. 
In  the  edicule,  which,  as  I  have  said,  is  square  (although  the  inside 
chapels  are  almost  round),  is  a  small  chapel  belonging  to  the  Coptic 
Christians.  ...  In  perambulating  the  church,  which  is  very 
large,  we  visited  the  green  (i)  stone  on  which  Christ  was  anointed 
after  His  death.  Close  to  this  is  the  place  where  the  Virgin  Mary, 
with  the  other  women,  watched  from  afar  when  they  placed  Jesus 
Christ  upon  the  cross  ;  it  is  distant  a  good  stone's  throw  from  Calvary. 
Afterwards  we  visited  Mount  Calvary,  ascending  to  it  by  nineteen  steps. 
There  is  the  chapel  where  Jesus  was  crucified  upon  the  cross.  This 
chapel  belongs  to  the  friars  of  St.  Francis.  There  are  many  lamps  in 
the  place,  and  beside  it  is  the  place  where  the  cross  was  erected  and 
placed  in  the  hole,  which  is  now  to  be  seen  surrounded  with  silver. 
The  hole  in  the  rock  is  a  cubit  in  depth  and  a  hand's  breadth  in  width  ; 
it  is  round.  This  chapel  belongs  to  the  Greeks.  At  the  sides  of  the 
holes  are  two  columns,  showing  where  were  set  up  the  crosses  of  the 
thieves.  To  the  right  of  the  chapel  is  the  rock  which  was  rent  when 
Christ  died  :  quia  petrce  scissce  sunt.  Underneath  this  same  chapel, 
almost  below  the  hole  of  the  cross,  is  the  place  where  was  found  the 
head  of  Adam,  and  the  rent  in  the  rock  comes  down  as  far  as  here. 
Having  descended  from  Mount  Calvary  we  saw  six  or  seven  tombs  of 
Kings  of  this  city,  among  them  that  of  Godfrey  of  Bouillon,  and  of 
King  Baldwin.  .  .  .  Around  the  church  live  the  representatives  of 
all  the  Christian  nations,  who  have  their  special  places  and  their  lamps 
here  ;  those  who  live  here  are  either  priests  or  members  of  religious 
orders.  First  come  the  friars  of  St.  Francis  ;  secondly,  the  Greeks  ; 
(i)  The  present  Stone  of  Unction  is  a  slab  of  pink  marble. — H.  C.  L. 

44 


DIARY   OF  A   FRANCISCAN   PILGRIM 

thirdly,  the  Syrians  ;  fourth,  the  Jacobites  ;  fifth,  the  Georgians  ; 
sixth,  the  Abyssinians  ;  seventh,  the  Copts  ;  eighth,  the  Nestorians  ; 
ninth,  the  Armenians.  Our  friars  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  own  twelve 
lamps  in  the  chapel  [of  the  Holy  Sepulchre],  and  the  other  nations 
have  also  some." 

H.  C.  Luke. 


45 


Till-     CURlSriAN     COMMIXITIHS    IX 

Till-    Hoi  Y   Si-ri  i.cuRi- 

Bv  H.   ^\   I  i-jcE 

Among  the  feuturci;  which  Sv,  .  .:.-  the  Church  ot  the  Holy 
Sepulchre  fn>in  the  other  sanctiuirlcj;  oc  Chrijtcudoni  i<;  the  tact  that  it 
is  not  ser\-evi  by  ;i  single  cvMuniunity,  but  is  shared  by  many  Christian 
denominations,  Ihis  circumstance  has  been  the  controlling  element 
in  its  history  since  the  end  of  the  Crus;\ding  Kingdom  ot  Jerusalem. 
Its  ..""  .'s  tnarily  concerned  with  the  claims  to  its  shrines  and 

ch.ipiis  . :  :  .  <  •unrhes  of  East  and  West,  and  with  the  tiuctuations  of 
their  l\  .  .  .  .  s  within  its  walls.  In  the  following  pages  I  have 
attemptevi  to  gi\'e  a  very  rapid  yet  cv>ntinuous  sur\'ey  of  this  aspect 
of  the  Jloly  Sepulchre's  history ;  .-.  oo..-.prehensi\-e  one  \\x)uld  casUy 
fiU  se%c:  '  \.' •  nes.  It  wUl  in\vl\e,  when  it  comes  to  be  under- 
take;!. •■. :  o;'..y  a  study  of  the  vvimtless  wAsrks,  both  manuscript  and 
pri:  u\-,  of  the  pilgrims  ...  r  tra\-ellers,  who  in   the  course  of 

>cvc;.  v-enturies  ha\-e  WTitten  ac.  .  :;s  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  ;  it  will 
also  nccvS.<'M:c  a  critical  examination  of  many  Firmans  in  Arabic,  in 
Turkis':-.  •'  :^:-  T:  -.  -  A-^.-.b".-  '-.r.^n  employed  by  some  of  the 

C.u-.c-.s  ^  .  /  N,  ^  \:\  •  :.  u  ,  .c  Moslem  rulers  of  Palestine 
: -^  the  seA  v  v  ..mumities  in  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  The  circum- 
stance tha:  :'  Sv  Kirmans  are  not  infrequently  in  contradiction  with 
o  -A         '  .    •'■'■  ■    '   .     the  difficulties  of  the  Holy  Haces  Commis- 

>       .      :-.v;-.  ;;•...:  .      stUMte^!  and  h:?s  begun  to  address  itself  to 

•:    .    .    .^SCCUticr.  :-   :  ^x 

In  looo,.  whev,  T    .  v  within  the  dominions  of  the  Fatimite 

Khadifs       '  3  tyrannical  Khalif  Hakim  bi-amr- 

lUakc  -  c~^upof  buildings,  whose  successors 

wcr«s.  ■  Churdi  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre, 

The  b.  ^  ^  .,-.  by  the  Patriarch  Modestus 

aftv  >  .s  :\   :   .  i.      :  c  razed  to  the  ground,  or 

.*•  the  foundations  *" witose 

.  .  ^  v..:      ...u.  .%  '*  oduld  not  be  torn  out 

:le**(i)  were         -  -,  remain.    Ele-ven  years 

.      XiceplKv...v.  \\ho  had  previously  been  a  carpenter 


CHRISTIAN   COMMUNITIES    IN   HOLY   SEPULCHRE 

In  Hakim's  employ,  made  use  of  his  acquaintance  with  the  Khalif  to 
secure  permission  tor  the  Christians  to  resume  their  services  "  suivant 
n'importe  quel  rite  ou  n'importe  quelle  croyance  .  .  .  dans  I'enceinte 
dite  de  I'eglise  de  la  QiSmeh  et  sur  ses  ruines  "  (i).  Finally,  twenty- 
nine  years  after  its  destruction,  the  Church  of  the  Anastasis — that  is, 
the  Church  surmounting  the  Tomb  of  the  Saviour — was  restored  at 
the  expense  of  the  Emperor  Constantino  Monomachus.  The  restora- 
tion of  Monomachus  did  not  extend  to  the  Martyrium,  that  is  to  say, 
to  the  buildings  which  had  been  erected  over  the  sites  of  our  Lord's 
Passion  ;  it  was  left  to  the  Crusaders,  after  the  establishment  of  the 
Latin  Kingdom  of  Jerusalem,  to  unite  Anastasis  and  Martyrium, 
together  witli  their  dependent  chapels  and  shrines,  into  one  compre- 
hensive cathedral.  Partly  by  utilizing  and  adapting  the  existing 
buildings,  mostly  by  new  constructions,  they  left  a  church  which  to 
some  extent  in  fabric,  wholly  in  outline,  is  the  Church  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre  as  we  know  it  to-day. 

While  we  read  that,  in  the  new  cathedral,  the  Orthodox  retained 
their  former  altar  under  the  Triumphal  Arch  (2)  together  with  the 
chapel  in  which  was  preserved  their  reliquary  of  the  True  Cross  (3), 
and  that  the  Armenians  owned  a  chapel  just  within  St.  Mary's  Gate  (4), 
that  mediirval  porch,  now  walled  up,  which  is  situated  in  Christian 
Street  immediately  to  the  north  of  the  present  police  post,  the  Latins 
were  paramount  in  the  church  during  the  existence  of  the  Latin 
Kingdom.  Nevertheless,  even  at  this  time,  most  of  the  Eastern  Churches 
celebrated  their  services  under  the  roof  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  In 
his  hibellus  de  Locis  Sanctis  (5)  the  monk  Theodoric,  writing  about 
1 172,  gives  the  following  account  of  the  arrangements  then  in  force: 
"  Before  the  door  of  the  choir  is  an  altar  of  no  small  size,  which,  how- 
ever, is  only  used  by  the  Syrians  (6)  in  their  services.  When  the  daily 
Latin  services  are  over  the  Syrians  are  wont  to  sing  their  hymns  either 
there  outside  the  choir,  or  in  one  of  the  apses  of  the  church  ;  indeed, 
they  have  several  small  altars  in  the  church,  arranged  and  devoted  to 
their  own  peculiar  use.  These  are  the  religious  sects  which  celebrate 
divine    service    in    the    church    at   Jerusalem:     the     Latins,    Syrians, 

(i)  Vincent  and  Abel,  vol.  cit.,  p.  250.  (2)  IhiJ.,  p.  266. 

(3)  Ibui.,  pp.  269-70.  (4)  Ibid.,  p.  269. 

(5)  English  version  published  by  the  P.ilestine  Pilgrims'  Text  Society,  London,  1891. 

(6)  Theodoric  distinguishes  between  the  Orthodox  Arabs  and  the  Orthodox  Greeks. 

47 


CHRISTIAN   COMMUNITIES   IN   HOLY   SEPULCHRE 

Armenians,  Greeks  (i),  Jacobites,  and  Nubians.  All  these  differ  from 
one  another  in  language  and  in  their  manner  of  conducting  divine 
service.  The  Jacobites  use  trumpets  on  their  feast  days,  after  the 
fashion  of  the  Jews." 

The  Crusaders  lost  Jerusalem  to  Saladin  in  1187,  regained  it 
under  the  Emperor  Frederick  II  for  the  decade  1 229-1239,  and  after 
that  held  it  no  more,  although  the  Latin  Kingdom  maintained  its 
foothold  in  the  Holy  Land  until  Acre,  its  last  outpost,  fell  to  the  Mame- 
luke Melek  al-Ashraf  in  1291.  After  1239  the  Saracens  took  control 
of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  and  gave  the  custody  of  its  keys  to  the  two 
Moslem  families  whose  descendants  still  retain  it.  The  end  of 
undisputed  Latin  supremacy  in  the  Holy  Sepulchre  synchronized  with 
the  end  of  Latin  rule  in  Jerusalem  ;  by  the  consent  of  the  Moslem 
rulers,  given  in  accordance  with  the  ability  to  pay  the  heavy  fees  which 
they  exacted,  the  Eastern  Churches  now  secured  their  shares  in  the 
fabric  (2).  The  Latin  clergy  were  not  expelled  from  the  church,  but 
by  1333  the  Augustinian  Canons  of  the  Latin  Kingdom  are  replaced 
by  the  Franciscans,  who  are  henceforth  the  representatives  of  Latin 
Christianity  in  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  By  1335  three  Orthodox  monks 
are  established  within  it  (3),  and  are  soon  followed  by  representatives 
of  the  other  Eastern  Churches,  who,  as  we  have  seen  from  the  extract 
from  Theodoric's  Libellus  quoted  above,  were  celebrating  their  services 
in  it  two  centuries  previously.  The  small  chapel  then  known  as 
St.  Mary  of  Golgotha  (now  St.  Mary  of  Egypt),  which  is  the  lower  of 
the  two  chapels  that  occupy  the  projecting  building  in  the  north-east 
corner  of  the  parvis,  belonged  to  the  Abyssinians  (and  is  now  Orthodox); 
the  chapel  of  St.  Michael  (now  in  the  hands  of  the  Copts),  which 
adjoins  it  on  the  south,  then  belonged  to  the  Georgians,  or,  according 
to  some  authorities,  to  the  Jacobites  ;  that  of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  now 
St.  James  (the  southern  neighbour  of  St.  Michael),  belonged  then,  as 
it  does  now,  to  the  Armenians.  Ludolf  of  Sudheim,  in  1348,  finds 
"  Latins,  Greeks,  Armenians,  Nubians,  Syrians  and  Georgians  "  in 
occupation,  and  also  mentions  the  Nestorians — zs  pessimi  heretlci. 

Notwithstanding    the    fact    that    the    Holy    Sepulchre    was    now 

(i)  Theodoric  distinguishes  between  the  Orthodox  Arabs  and  the  Orthodox  Greeks. 

(2)  C/.   Jeffery,  A  Brie]  Description  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  etc.,  Cambridge,   1919, 

PP-  30-31- 

(3)  Vincent  and  Abel,  vol.  cit.,  p.  291. 

48 


CHRISTIAN   COMMUNITIES   IN   HOLY   SEPULCHRE 

accessible  to  all  Churches,  the  Latins  were  still  able,  in  the  fifteenth 
century,  to  maintain  a  predominant  position,  largely  thanks  to  the 
protection  afforded  to  them  by  the  Dukes  of  Burgundy.  The  man 
who  obtained  for  them  this  assistance  was  the  Burgundian  knight 
Bertrandon  de  la  Brocquiere,  perhaps  the  most  interesting  of  the 
travellers  and  pilgrims  of  the  fifteenth  century.  This  nobleman,  who 
visited  Jerusalem  in  1432,  was  esquire  carver  to  the  Duke  of  Burgundy, 
and  it  was  his  account  of  the  condition  of  the  Christians  in  the  Holy 
Land  that  led  his  master  to  exert  himself  to  fortify  the  position  of  the 
Latins  in  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  De  la  Brocquiere's  description  of  his 
travels  ( I ),  while  full  of  life  and  picturesque  detail,  is  marked  by 
accuracy  and  good  sense,  and  betrays  none  of  the  credulity  of  so  many 
of  his  predecessors.  This  is  his  account  of  the  various  branches  of 
Christianity  which  he  found  in  the  Holy  Sepulchre  :  "  Among  the 
free  Christians  there  are  but  two  Cordeliers  who  inhabit  the  Holy 
Sepulchre,  and  even  they  are  oppressed  by  the  Saracens  ;  I  can  speak 
of  it  from  my  own  knowledge,  having  been  witness  of  it  for  two 
months.  In  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  reside  also  many  other 
sorts  of  Christians,  Jacobites,  Armenians,  Abyssinians  from  the  country 
of  Prester  John,  and  Christians  of  the  girdle  ;  but  of  these  the  Franks 
suffer  the  greatest  hardships." 

Largely  in  consequence,  no  doubt,  of  the  efforts  of  the  Duke  of 
Burgundy,  the  Latins  improved  their  position  to  such  an  extent  that 
before  the  end  of  the  century  they  held  the  keys  of  the  chapel  surmount- 
ing the  Tomb  itself  (2),  and,  among  other  shrines,  the  chapel  of  St. 
Mary  and  an  altar  on  Calvary.  The  Chorus  Dominorum  and  the 
Prison  of  Christ  belonged  as  now  to  the  Orthodox.  In  the  Chapel  of 
Calvary  the  Georgians  took  the  place  of  the  Armenians,  who  acquired 
instead  a  portion  (which  they  still  hold)  of  the  galleries  in  the  Rotunda. 
The  Dominican  Felix  Faber  of  Ulm,  in  his  discursive  Evagatorium  (3), 
whose  epistle  dedicatory  is  dated  1484,  assigns  to  the  Georgians 
Calvary  and  the  chapel  beneath  it,  together  with  the  chapel  of  the 

(i)  Included,  in  an  English  version,  in  Wright,  Early  Travels  in  Palestine,  London, 
1848. 

(2)  Having  dispossessed  the  Georgians,  who  held  them  at  the  time  of  the  pilgrimage 
of  Ludolf  of  Sudheim. 

(3)  Translated  and  published  by  the  Palestine  Pilgrims'  Text  Society,  2  vols.,  London, 
1892. 

I  49 


CHRISTIAN   COMMUNITIES    IN   HOLY   SEPULCHRE 

Invention  of  the  Cross  ;  to  the  Jacobites  the  Stone  of  Unction  and 
"  a  small  chapel  adjoining  the  Lord's  monument  "  ;  to  the  Abyssinians 
the  Chapel  of  Derision,  which  is  now  in  the  hands  of  the  Orthodox  (i). 

Two  other  fifteenth-century  pilgrims  deserve  special  notice  in 
this  connexion.  The  Franciscan  Francesco  Suriano,  who  was  subse- 
quently to  become,  for  two  periods,  "  Guardian  of  Mount  Zion,"  that 
is  to  say,  the  head  of  the  Franciscan  Missions  in  the  Holy  Land,  com- 
pleted the  first  text  of  his  Trattato  (2)  in  1485.  In  the  twenty-third 
chapter  of  Golubovich's  edition,  which  reproduces  the  second  of  the 
three  texts  of  the  Trattato^  Suriano  enumerates  ten  partners  in  the 
Holy  Sepulchre,  namely,  Latins,  Maronites,  Greeks,  Georgians,  Abys- 
sinians, Copts,  Jacobites,  Syrians  or  Christians  of  the  Girdle,  Armenians, 
and  Nestorians  ;  and  in  the  ten  subsequent  chapters  he  gives  a  mass 
of  interesting  (also  outspoken  and,  it  is  to  be  feared,  at  times  uncharit- 
able) particulars  of  each.  He  does  not,  as  a  rule,  define  the  portions 
of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  occupied  by  the  several  Churches,  being  more 
concerned  with  the  "  putrid  heresies  "  of  those  not  in  communion 
with  Rome  ;  but  of  the  Nestorians,  concerning  whom  the  notices  of 
mediaeval  writers  in  this  connexion  are  scantier  than  are  those  dealing 
with  the  other  Eastern  Churches  (3),  he  says  that  they  own  an  altar 
by  what  is  now  the  sacristy  of  the  Franciscans. 

In  the  interesting  description  (4)  of  his  pilgrimage  to  Jerusalem 
in  1494  Pietro  Casola,  Canon  of  Milan  Cathedral,  enumerates  nine 
communities  as  sharing  the  ownership  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  namely, 
Latins,  Greeks,  Georgians,  Armenians,  Abyssinians,  Syrians,  Maronites, 
Jacobites,  and  people  whom  he  calls  Golbites.  He  describes  the 
Orthodox  occupancy  of  the  Chorus  Dominorum,  and  states  that  the 
chapel  of  the  Jacobites  is  behind  the  Tomb  itself  ;  while  Calvary  belongs 
to  the  Georgians  and  the  Chapel  of  Derision  to  the  Abyssinians.  He 
finds  the  Armenians  in  possession  of  a  "  chapel  which  goes  down  by 
many  steps  under  Mount   Calvary  " — perhaps   meaning  thereby  the 

(i)  C/.  vol.  i.,  pp.  431-439- 

(2)  //  Trattato  di  Terra  Santa  e  deW  Oriente,  edited  by  Father  G.  Golubovich,  O.F.M., 
Milan,  1900. 

(3)  For  the  Nestorians  in  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  cf.  also  Amico,  Trattato  delle  Piante  .  .  . 
di  Terra  Santa,  p.  32. 

(4)  Margaret  Newett,  Canon  Pietro  Casola's  Pilgrimage  to  Jerusalem  in  the  year  14^4, 
Manchester  University  Press,  1907. 

50 


CHRISTIAN   COMMUNITIES   IN   HOLY   SEPULCHRE 

Chapel  of  St.  Helena,     By  "  Golbites  "  the  Canon  presumably  means 
the  Copts. 

Although  Casola  does  not,  as  do  some  of  the  pilgrims,  assign  a 
part  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  to  the  "  Christians  of  the  Girdle,"  he  refers 
to  them  on  several  occasions  in  the  course  of  his  narrative  as  having 
communities  in  Jerusalem,  Ramleh,  and  elsewhere  in  Palestine.  It 
may  not  be  out  of  place,  therefore,  to  ask  ourselves  who  exactly  were 
these  people,  these  Chrhtiani  della  cintura.  Most  of  the  mediaeval 
authors  refer  to  them  as  if  they  were  a  sect  apart.  Thus  Sir  John 
Maundeville,  no  very  reliable  guide,  it  is  true,  in  enumerating  the 
sects  of  Syria  and  Palestine,  says :  "  There  are  others  who  are  called 
Christians  of  the  girdle,  because  they  are  all  girt  above."  Roberto  da 
Sanseverino,  writing  of  Jerusalem  in  1458,  states  that  "  the  Christians 
of  the  Girdle  are  so  called  because  their  ancestors  were  converted  by 
the  miracles  performed  by  Saint  Thomas  the  Apostle  with  the  girdle  of 
the  glorious  Virgin  Mary,  which  he  received  from  her  when  she  ascended 
into  heaven.  In  remembrance  of  this,  and  in  sign  of  devotion,  when 
they  enter  the  churches  for  worship,  they  put  on  a  girdle  made  like 
those  sold  for  the  measure  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  According  to  what 
people  say  the  girdle  they  wear  is  exactly  like  that  of  the  glorious 
Virgin."  Similar  accounts  are  given  by  Santo  Brasca  and  other  pil- 
grims (i)  ;  while  Faber  goes  yet  farther  astray  in  blending  Georgians, 
Nubians,  and  "  Christians  of  the  Cincture  "  into  one  impossible 
identity.  Suriano  is  nearer  the  truth  when  he  describes  the  eighth 
in  his  list  of  sects  in  the  Holy  Sepulchre  as  Syriani,  zioe  christiafjt  de 
la  Centura.  And  Bertrandon  de  la  Brocquiere,  who,  as  we  have  seen, 
includes  them  among  the  tenants  of  the  Sepulchre,  also  refers  to  them, 
as  does  Casola,  as  inhabiting  villages  in  Palestine.  No  foreign  eastern 
sect  would  then  be  mingled  with  the  local  population  in  Palestinian 
villages  ;  and  it  may  be  assumed  with  safety  that  the  "  Christians  of 
the  Girdle  "  were  none  other  than  the  local  native  Orthodox  Christians, 
the  people  who  would  now  be  described  as  the  Arabophone  flock 
of  the  Orthodox  Patriarchate  of  Jerusalem.  The  mediaeval  writers 
almost  invariably  distinguish  between  the  Orthodox  Arabs  on  the 
one  hand,  and  their  hierarchy  and  monks  in  the  Holy  Sepulchre, 
who  were  mainly  Greeks  by  race,  on  the  other.  The  appellation  "  of 
the     Girdle  "    may    have   originated   from    the    edict  ^issued    by    the 

(i)  Casola,  p.  386,  note  77. 

51 


CHRISTIAN   COMMUNITIES    IN   HOLY   SEPULCHRE 

persecuting  Khalif  Mutawakil  in  a.d.  856,  whereby  Christians  and 
Jews  in  his  dominions  were  ordered  to  wear  broad  girdles  of  leather. 

The  sixteenth  century  witnesses  the  beginning  of  a  change  in 
the  balance  of  power  in  the  Holy  Places.  The  conquest  of  Palestine 
by  Sultan  Selim  I  in  1517  from  the  Mameluke  rulers  of  Egypt 
and  the  incorporation  of  the  country  within  the  Ottoman  Empire 
inaugurates  a  renaissance  of  Orthodox  influence  at  the  expense  of 
the  Latins ;  and  the  Franciscans  in  Jerusalem  are  beset  in  the  course 
of  the  century  with  many  difficulties,  such  as  the  loss  of  the 
Czenaculum  in  1 547. 

In  the  Holy  Sepulchre  the  position  is  not  materially  altered,  but 
in  1537  (or  1 571)  (i)  the  Copts  erected  a  small  chapel  back  to  back  with 
that  covering  the  Tomb  (2).  This  chapel  shared  the  fate  of  the  Rotunda 
in  the  fire  of  1808,  but,  with  it,  was  afterwards  rebuilt  in  its  present 
form.  The  anonymous  sixteenth-century  Franciscan,  from  whose 
manuscript  description  of  the  Holy  Places  I  have  translated  extracts 
in  the  previous  chapter,  enumerates,  as  we  have  seen,  the  Latins, 
Greeks,  Syrians,  Jacobites,  Georgians,  Abyssinians,  Copts,  Nestorians, 
and  Armenians  as  the  occupants  of  the  church. 

An  informative  description  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  and  its  com- 
munities in  the  latter  half  of  the  sixteenth  century  is  given  by  the 
Dutch  traveller  Dr.  Leonhart  Rauwolff  (3),  who  visited  Jerusalem  in 
1575.  As  permanent  denizens  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  Rauwolff 
mentions  the  Latins,  Abyssinians,  Greeks,  Armenians,  Georgians, 
Nestorians,  Syrians,  and  "Jacobites  or  Golti."  It  is  to  be  noted  that 
by  "  Syrians  "  he  means  Jacobites  (he  states  that  they  own,  as  they  do 
to  this  day,  the  House  of  St.  Mark  in  the  south-east  quarter  of  Jerusa- 
lem), and  that  his  "  Jacobites  or  Golti  "  are  the  Copts.  Of  the  Maronites 
he  says  that  "  these  live  not  continually  in  the  Temple  of  Mount 
Calvaria,  but  go  often  thither  on  Pilgrimages."  In  his  careful  account 
of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  Rauwolff  places  the  Latins  where  they  are  at 
present,  and  the  Orthodox  in  the  Chorus  Dominorum,  also  in  Calvary, 

(i)  Vincent  and  Abel,  vol.  cit.,  p.  294. 

(2)  Zuallardo,  in  1587,  speaks  of  an  altar  in  the  Holy  Sepulchre  used  by  "  Goffiti 
Indiani."  Can  he  be  referring  to  the  Church  of  Malabar,  originally  an  offshoot  of  the 
Nestorian  Church,  but  now  in  greater  part  in  communion  with  the  Jacobites  ? 

(3)  An  English  version  of  Rauwolff's  work  is  included  in  John  Ray,  A  Collection  of 
Curious  Travels  and  Voyages,  London,  1693. 

52 


CHRISTIAN   COMMUNITIES    IN   HOLY   SEPULCHRE 

"  which  they  forced  from  the  Georgians,  as  they  [sc.  the  Georgians] 
did  before  from  the  Armenians,  by  giving  money  to  the  Turks." 
The  Copts  have  "  the  chapel  behind  the  Sepulchre  of  Christ  "  ;  the 
Abyssinians  "  live  in  the  Temple  of  Mount  Calvaria,  just  by  the 
church  door  towards  the  left,  and  have  through  their  Lodging  a  peculiar 
way,  so  that  without  hindrance,  according  to  their  pleasure,  they  may 
go  in  and  out."  The  Georgians  "  are  also  possessed  of  their  peculiar 
places,  wherein  they  sing  and  exercise  the  Offices,  and  chiefly  of  one 
in  the  Church  of  Mount  Calvaria,  in  the  place  near  the  Sepulchre  of 
our  Lord  Christ,  where  He  did  first  appear  unto  Mary  Magdalen  in 
the  similitude  of  a  Gardener,  after  His  Resurrection."  Of  the 
Nestorians  Rauwolff  only  says  that  "  some  of  their  Priests  live  upon  the 
Mount  Calvaria  in  the  Temple,"  without  specifying  the  precise  locality. 
The  first  half  of  the  seventeenth  century  is  mainly  occupied  by 
the  struggle,  which  had  now  come  to  a  head,  between  the  Orthodox 
and  the  Latins  for  supremacy  within  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  The 
former  had  as  their  spokesman  in  the  capital  the  CEcumenical  Patriarch, 
the  latter  were  powerfully  supported  by  successive  French  Ambassadors 
to  the  Porte.  The  battle  raged  most  fiercely,  with  varying  fortunes, 
during  the  years  1 630-1 637,  Sultan  Murad  IV  being  then  on  the  throne. 
In  this  brief  period  the  right  of  pre-eminence  [prcedominium)  in  the 
Holy  Places  principally  concerned,  namely,  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  the 
Church  of  the  Tomb  of  the  Virgin  near  Gethsemane  and  the  Basilica 
of  the  Nativity  at  Bethlehem,  alternated  no  fewer  than  six  times 
between  the  two  protagonists  (i).  Finally,  in  October,  1637,  Theo- 
phanes  III,  Patriarch  of  Jerusalem,  obtained  of  the  Sultan  a  Firman  in 
favour  of  the  Orthodox,  and  thereupon  the  dispute  remained  quiescent 
until  it  broke  out  with  renewed  violence  at  Easter,  1674.  The  English 
Ambassador  to  the  Porte  was  then  Sir  John  Finch,  his  French  colleague 
the  Marquis  de  Nointel  ;  but  the  lengthy  negotiations  now  inaugurated 
with  Sultan  Mehmed  IV,  in  which  these  diplomatists  took  a  large  share, 
left  the  matter,  on  the  whole,  in  statu  quo  ante  (2). 

(1)  These  events  are  related,  from  somewhat  different  points  of  view,  in  Papado- 
poulos, ' JcTTopta  TJ}?  "EKK\rjaLa<;  ' lepoaoXvficov,  Jerusalem,  1910,  ch.  7,  and  Golubovich, 
/  Frati  Minori  nel  Possesso  de''  Liwghi  Santi  di  Gerusalemme  e  i  jalsi  Firmani  posscduti 
dai  Greco-Elleni,  Florence,  1921.  The  Latin  position  is  also  summarized  in  the  same 
writer's  La  Ouestione  de''  Luoghi  Santi  (extracted  from  the  Archivum  Franciscanum 
Historicum,  vol.  xiv),  pp.  6-9. 

(2)  Cj.  Abbott,  Under  the  Turk  in  Constantinople,  London,  1920,  pp.  116  sqq. 

53 


CHRISTIAN   COMMUNITIES   IN   HOLY   SEPULCHRE 

This  century  also  saw  the  decline  of  some  of  the  Eastern  Churches 
in  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  the  complete  withdrawal  of  others.  The 
Georgians,  unable,  owing  to  the  exactions  imposed  by  Persia  on  the 
Georgian  Kingdom,  to  afford  any  longer  the  heavy  dues  demanded 
by  the  Turkish  Government,  retired  from  the  church  about  1644  ; 
a  quarter  of  a  century  later  the  Abyssinians  were  forced  to  retreat  to 
the  roof  of  St.  Helena's  chapel,  where  they  remain  to  the  present  day  ; 
we  now  hear  no  more  of  Nestorian  participation  in  the  fabric.  Of 
the  Maronite  holdings  we  also  hear  no  more  :  henceforth  the  Uniate 
Churches  are  represented  in  the  Holy  Sepulchre  by  the  Latins. 

In  view  of  the  outstanding  position  so  long  occupied  by  the 
Georgians  in  the  Holy  City,  I  may  perhaps  be  permitted  the  following 
quotation  from  what  I  have  Vv^ritten  elsewhere  (i)  :  "  An  Armenian 
historian  says  of  the  Georgian  Queen  Tamara  (reigned  11 84-1 2 12)  : 
'  Tamara  made  a  treaty  of  peace  with  the  Sultan  of  Damascus.  .  .  . 
From  that  time  the  Sultan  has  treated  the  Christians  more  humanely  .  .  . 
taxes  on  the  monasteries  are  reduced  .  .  .  the  pillage  of  pilgrims 
travelling  to  Jerusalem  is  forbidden,  especially  if  they  are  Georgians.  .  .  . 
They  (sc.  the  Georgians)  are  free  from  taxation  in  the  Empire  of  the 
Sultans  and  in  Jerusalem,  where  Tamara  was  held  in  great  esteem.' 
According  to  another  Armenian  chronicler  '  only  the  Georgians  had 
the  right  to  enter  Jerusalem  with  flying  colours  and  without  paying 
tribute.  The  Saracens  dare  not  insult  them.'  Indeed,  from  the  early 
days  of  Christianity  the  Georgians  occupied  a  very  special  position  in 
Jerusalem  and  the  Holy  Land.  They  ranked  fourth  in  the  Church  of 
the  Holy  Sepulchre,  where  they  owned  the  Chapel  of  the  Invention  of 
the  Cross,  and  at  one  time  they  possessed  eleven  religious  establishments 
in  and  around  the  Holy  City.  Dositheus  I,  Patriarch  of  Jerusalem,  a 
contemporary  of  Queen  Tamara,  wrote  that  '  the  pious  Kings  of 
Iberia  have  always  been  the  protectors  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  and  other 
sacred  sites.'  In  so  late  a  period  as  the  sixteenth  century  the  Georgians 
enjoyed   immunities  conceded  to  no  other  Christians  in  Jerusalem  ; 

(i)  Luke,  Aftatolica,  London,  1924,  ch.  10.  For  the  Georgians  in  Jerusalem,  cf.  also 
Tsagareli,  Pamyatniki  Grusinskoi  Starinui  v  Svyatoi  Zemlje  i  na  Sinaje,  in  No.  lo  of  the 
Review  of  the  Russian  Orthodox  Palestine  Society  {Pravoslavnuii  Palestinskii  Sbornik), 
Petrograd,  l888;  extracts  from  Georgian  codices  in  the  Athonite  monastery  of  I veron, 
given  by  Themeles  in  ' ExaTovTaeTtjpU  rov  Uaviepov  Naov  tj)?  ' AvacTTCKrea)';,  Jerusalem, 
1910,  pp.  152-3  ;  Williams,  The  Holy  City,  2nd  ed.,  vol.  ii.  ;  Dowling,  Sketches  of  Georgian 
Church  History,  London,  1912. 

54 


CHRISTIAN   COMMUNITIES    IN   HOLY   SEPULCHRE 

and,  had  not  their  ancient  autocephalous  Church  been  absorbed  by  the 
Church  of  Russia  when  Russia  absorbed  Georgia,  they  would  be 
there  to  this  day.  Their  last  possession,  the  Convent  of  the  Holy 
Cross,  the  death-place  of  Rustaveli,  lying  in  a  shallow  valley  one  and  a 
half  miles  west  of  the  city  walls,  is  now  the  theological  college  of  the 
Orthodox  Patriarchate  of  Jerusalem  ;  but  Georgian  inscriptions  are  still 
visible  in  fresco  on  the  walls  of  the  church." 

Another  Dutchman,  the  painter  Cornelius  van  Bruyn  (i),  visiting 
Jerusalem  in  1681,  found  that  "  in  this  Church  of  the  holy  Sepulcher 
there  are  always  Nine  Latin  Priests,  whose  constant  business  it  is  to 
pray  to  God,  and  to  take  care  of  the  holy  Places.  These  are  the  Chief, 
and  invested  with  the  greatest  Authority.  Of  the  Greeks  there  are 
commonly  seven  ;  of  the  Armenians  five,  and  of  the  Coptes  one. 
There  is  not  a  Person  that  resides  there  besides  them.  Formerly  the 
Abyssines  and  Syrians  were  Resident  (2).  The  Maronites  come 
thither  and  join  with  the  Latins  in  their  publick  Offices.  The  Latins 
are  in  possession  of  the  greatest  part  of  this  Church  :  the  Greeks  have 
the  Quire  and  the  holy  Sepulcher  :  the  Armenians  have  in  the  Front 
of  the  Church  a  large  Court,  where  they  reside  ;  but  the  other  Christians 
that  are  there  are  crouded  into  a  small  Apartment." 

The  situation  at  the  close  of  the  seventeenth  century  is  described 
by  the  Reverend  Henry  Maundrell,  who,  as  Chaplain  to  the  Factory 
of  the  English  Levant  Company  at  Aleppo,  visited  Jerusalem  in  1697, 
in  the  following  words  (3)  :  "  In  galleries  round  about  the  church, 
and  also  in  little  buildings  annext  to  it  on  the  outside,  are  certain 
apartments  for  the  reception  of  friars  and  pilgrims  ;  and  in  these  places 
almost  every  Christian  nation  anciently  maintained  a  small  society  of 
monks,  each  society  having  its  proper  quarter  assigned  to  it  by  the 
appointment  of  the  Turks,  such  as  the  Latins,  Greeks,  Syrians,  Arme- 
nians, Abyssinians,  Georgians,  Nestorians,  Cophtites,  Maronites,  etc., 
all  which  had  anciently  their  several  apartments  in  the  church  ;    but 

(i)  The  English  version  was  published  as  A  Voyage  to  the  Levant,  London,  1702. 

(2)  Although  the  Abyssinians  then  resided  on  the  roof  of  St.  Helena's  Chapel,  van 
Bruyn  evidently  regards  that  locality  as  outside  the  Holy  Sepulchre  proper.  The 
Jacobites,  while  maintaining  their  chapel  at  the  western  end  of  the  Rotunda,  which  they 
have  never  ceased  to  hold,  did  not  actually  reside  within  the  precincts,  and  are  for  this 
reason,  presumably,  omitted. 

(3)  A  Journey  from  Aleppo  to  Jerusalem  at  Easter,  i6p'/,  Oxford,  1703. 

55 


CHRISTIAN   COMMUNITIES   IN   HOLY  SEPULCHRE 

these  have  all,  except  four,  forsaken  their  quarters,  not  being  able  to 
sustain  the  severe  rents  and  extortions  which  their  Turkish  landlords 
impose  upon  them  The  Latins,  Greeks,  Armenians,  and  Cophtites 
keep  their  footing  still  ;  but  of  these  four  the  Cophtites  have  now 
only  one  poor  representative  of  their  nation  left  ;  and  the  Armenians 
are  run  so  much  in  debt  that  it  is  supposed  they  are  hastening  apace 
to  follow  the  examples  of  their  brethren,  who  have  deserted  before 
them." 

Maundrell  seems  to  have  overlooked  the  Jacobites,  and  he  says 
nothing  of  the  Abyssinians  on  the  roof  of  the  Chapel  of  St.  Helena  ; 
otherwise  his  account  may  be  regarded  as  reliable.  The  eighteenth 
century  saw  some  improvement  in  the  financial  position  of  those  whom 
he  found  tottering  on  the  verge  of  bankruptcy,  an^  since  his  day 
there  have  been  no  more  withdrawals.  Gradually,  during  the  eigh- 
teenth century,  the  respective  shares  of  the  surviving  communities 
became  consolidated,  and  were  not  materially  affected  by  the  fire  of 
1808  and  the  subsequent  reconstruction  of  the  Rotunda. 

The  accompanying  plan.  No.  46,  adapted  by  permission  from  that 
made  by  Dr.  Schick  in  1885  and  amended  by  Dr.  Mommert  in  1898  for 
the  German  Palestine  Society,  shows  the  position  of  the  several  com- 
munities as  now  established  under  the  status  quo.  It  will  not,  of  course, 
have  been  forgotten  that  it  was  an  aspect  of  the  question  concerning 
the  Holy  Places  which,  by  exacerbating  the  general  Eastern  Question, 
brought  about  the  Crimean  War,  A  settlement  was  reached  in  1878 
at  the  Congress  of  Berlin  ;  and  Article  LXII  of  the  Treaty  of  Berlin 
reads  as  follows :  "  It  is  well  understood  that  no  alterations  can  be 
made  in  the  status  quo  of  the  Holy  Places."  Thus  it  will  readily  be 
realized  how  the  words  status  quo  have  assumed  so  tremendous  a 
significance  in  matters  affecting  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  for  it  is  to  them 
that  appeal  is  made  in  all  questions  which  still  arise  within  those  sacred 
and  much  contested  walls. 

In  conclusion,  it  may  be  added  that  in  1885  the  Orthodox  Patriarch 
Nicodemus  assigned  to  the  Church  of  England,  for  the  celebration  of 
Anglican  services,  the  Chapel  of  Abraham  in  the  Convent  of  the  same 
name,  adjoining  Golgotha  on  the  south.  This  act  of  courtesy  con- 
stitutes a  privilege,  not  a  right,  and  does  not  imply  that  the  ownership 
of  the  chapel  is  vested  in  the  Church  of  England. 

H.  C.  Luke. 

56 


The  ground-floor 


Orthodox 


.  766 


.  J5- 


i  Jacobites 


•mm 


M  ,   1  I 

-a 


;:^<::r- 


'■::  ?'~ 


S.'/i 


0  p 


56] 


9 


Ine  ground- floor  is  shoii/n 


PLAN   OF    THE 
HOLY  SEPULCHRE  AND  SURROUNDINGS 

Adapted,  by  peimission  of  the  German  Palestine  Society,  from  the  plan  made  by  Baurath  C  Schick, 
and  brought  up  to  date  by   Dr.  C.  Mommert 


Heights  about  Sea-level  in  metres 


Orthodox     Convent 


Xo.  46. 


r 


The  Tiles  of  the  Church  of 
St.  James  of  Jerusalem 

By  George  Antonius 

The  Armenian  Church  of  St.  James  prides  itself  on  the  possession 
of  a  set,  unfortunately  incomplete,  of  ceramic  tiles  of  unusual  interest. 
They  are  to  be  found,  for  the  most  part,  in  the  Echmiadzin  Chapel  on 
the  south  side  of  the  church,  in  two  vertical  rows  facing  each  other, 
of  which  one  adorns  the  northern  and  the  other  the  southern  walls  of 
the  chapel,  A  few  more  may  be  seen  in  a  remote  part  of  the  convent, 
on  the  wall  of  a  priest's  cell,  where  they  form  a  quaint  dado  beneath 
the  window-sill.  These  tiles,  of  which  there  are  thirty-seven  altogether, 
are  all  that  is  left  of  a  larger  set  of  three  hundred,  originally  brought  to 
Jerusalem  in  the  first  quarter  of  the  eighteenth  century,  by  pious 
Armenians.  They  were  votive  offerings,  as  the  inscriptions  on  some 
of  them  testify,  which  had  been  specially  ordered  and  made  in  Kutahia 
for  the  decoration  of  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  But,  for 
various  reasons,  this  intention  was  never  fulfilled  ;  the  tiles  were  set 
up  elsewhere.  In  course  of  time  they  were  destroyed  or  scattered, 
and  only  thirty-seven  remain. 

Eight  of  these  tiles  are  reproduced  here  (Nos.  47  to  54),  by  the 
courtesy  of  M.  Christophe  A.  Nomico,  whose  learned  monograph  (i) 
throws  fresh  and  interesting  light  on  their  origin  and  manufacture. 
They  are  of  uniform  size,  namely,  7  by  7  inches,  or  rather  they  were, 
for  some  have  had  their  edges  worn  away  or  have  been  truncated  in  the 
process  of  setting  up.  The  pictures  are  in  bright  colours  (green,  yellow, 
and  blue,  and  sometimes  purple  and  red)  on  a  background  which  is 
invariably  white  ;  while  the  subjects  are  either  scenes  from  the  Old 
and  New  Testaments,  or  images  of  saints.  They  were  manufactured  in 
Kutahia,  at  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century,  that  is  to  say,  at 
a  time  when  the  artistic  traditions,  if  not  the  processes,  of  the  great 
Anatolian  and  Syrian  ceramists  of  the  fifteenth  and  sixteenth  centuries 
had  become  virtually  extinct  and  the  art  of  the  faience  decorator  was 

(l)   "  Ta  ■ypiaTiavi.Kci  Kepa/xoupyij/xaTa  toO  'ApfieviKOV  Ilarpiap^eLOu  tS)v  'lepoao- 
Xv/xtov,"  ed.  Kasimatis,  Alexandria,  1922. 

K  '  57 


THE  ARMENIAN  CATHEDRAL  OF  ST.  JAMES 

in  decadence.  Hence  the  primitive  designs,  the  crude  ornamentation. 
Yet  the  pictures  are  not  devoid  of  beauty.  Though  their  perspective 
is  rudimentary  and  the  composition  of  their  groups  hardly  more 
cunning  than  that  of  a  conscif^ntious  child,  the  effect  is  one  of  peculiar 
charm  and  freshness.  The  tile  representing  our  Lord's  entry  into 
Jerusalem  (No.  49)  is  perhaps  the  most  characteristic,  both  of  the  naive 
conception  of  the  artist  and  the  fidelity  with  which  he  sought  to  repro- 
duce every  detail  of  the  holy  episode  :  the  waving  of  palms  and  spreading 
of  raiments,  with  an  onlooker  perched  on  a  tree.  Another,  which 
represents  the  beheading  of  John  the  Baptist  (No.  48),  is  interesting 
as  showing,  in  the  figure  of  Salome,  distinct  traces  of  Persian  influence, 
with  a  distant  echo  of  Chinese  mannerisms. 

For  it  must  be  remembered  that  when  these  tiles  were  manu- 
factured, at  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century,  the  art  of  the 
Anatolian  ceramist  was  well-nigh  at  its  lowest  ebb  and  was  readily 
influenced  by  the  more  individual  methods  of  his  Persian  neighbour. 
The  decline  began  about  the  end  of  the  sixteenth  century  at  a  time 
when  a  marked,  though  somewhat  short-lived,  revival  of  this  and 
other  arts  was  taking  place  in  Persia.  As  time  went  on,  the  great 
traditions  of  the  earlier  centuries  were  forgotten  and  lost,  and  a  new 
and  inferior  art  arose,  confined  almost  exclusively  to  Kutahia  and  to 
the  fabrication  of  small  objects,  such  as  plates,  cups,  tiles,  and  egg- 
shaped  ornaments.  The  artisans  were  Armenian  Christians  who  could 
copy,  albeit  clumsily,  the  processes  of  their  predecessors,  but  lacked 
their  decorative  genius.  Moreover,  they  were  gradually  turning  their 
art  to  new  uses.  Hitherto,  they  had  worked  exclusively  for  their 
Turkish  masters  whose  houses  and  mosques  they  had  adorned.  But 
now  the  great  age  of  building  had  passed,  and  they  turned  their  attention 
to  their  own  needs,  to  their  houses  and  their  churches.  Christian 
decoration,  however,  involved  saints  with  human  figures,  of  which 
there  were  in  Asia  Minor  no  traditions  to  observe  or  models  to  copy. 
Hence  the  primitive  designs,  and  the  immature  drawing,  in  these 
tiles  which  are  a  fair  sample  of  the  production  of  the  period.  Their 
manufacture  shows  that  the  ceramists  of  Kutahia  could  still  imitate  the 
processes  of  the  sixteenth  century,  with  a  fair  measure  of  success  ;  but 
the  pictorial  talent  in  them  is  rude  and  primitive,  as  of  an  art  in  its 
infancy. 

It  may  not  be  out  of  place  to  say  a  word  here  about  the  possibilities 

58 


I   ^   . . ^ ;  <-♦    —^'-^ "^      ■ Sf^ 

Av.   47. 
&.    George   and  the   Dragon. 


i\o.    48 


Execution   of   "John   the    Baptist. 


-.~-=q 


'h-'tr"""'"  4*-  hf^ii^^- 


A^l*-^   ^   ^ -^—^ 3 

>  j^n-uj^^'^'^  ^•"P1"-{Jt    -fj-¥uii"'^ 


No.   4g. 


Our  Lord's  entry  info    'Jerusalem. 

53] 


The  Virgin   and  Child. 


A«.   50. 


ll*i^//***/*.*^»^^y*rrAi^ 


David  playing  on   the   Harp. 


A'o.  51, 


r/zt'   Miracle  of  Lazarus. 


No.  52. 


A'o.   54. 


T/ie  Descent  from  the   Cross. 


The    Resurrection. 


THE    ARMENIAN   CATHEDRAL   OF   ST.  JAMES 

of  a  revival  of  the  Anatolian  ceramic  art.  Of  late  years  there  has  been 
displayed  a  new  activity  in  Kutahia  and  other  centres  in  Asia  Minor, 
which  is  taking  the  form  of  a  striving  after  the  forms  and  the  designs 
of  the  sixteenth  century.  The  Pro-Jerusalem  Society  have  seen  in 
this  the  seeds  of  a  possible  revival,  and  have  established  a  workshop 
in  Jerusalem,  with  an  Armenian  Christian  artisan  from  Kutahia  at  its 
head,  where  experiments  have  been  actively  conducted  during  the  last 
five  years.  The  immediate  object  of  these  experiments  is  to  produce 
the  coloured  tiles  required  for  the  repairs  to  the  Dome  of  the  Rock. 
But  they  have  another  end  in  view,  which  is  to  collaborate  in  the 
endeavour  to  revive  the  craft.  The  possibilities  are  immense,  and  it 
must  be  owned  that  whatever  success  may  be  achieved  will  be  due, 
in  the  first  place,  to  the  humble  artisans  of  Kutahia  who  have  preserved 
and  handed  down  all  that  was  left  of  the  processes  of  the  "  belle  epoque" 

G.  Antonius. 


59 


A  Brief  Description  of  the  Work 
done  by  the  local  craftsmen  at 
Government  House 

By  C.   R.  Ashbee 

One  of  the  most  interesting  pieces  of  constructive  work  that  was 
done  during  the  first  year  of  the  Civil  Administration,  a  direct  outcome 
of  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Society's  activities  and  experiments,  was  the 
work  of  furnishing  and  decorating  at  Government  House.  It  is 
interesting  as  showing  what  can  be  done  in  Palestine  by  Palestinians, 
and  still  more  as  showing  the  method  and  traditions  of  labour  that 
have  perforce  to  be  followed,  and  the  difficulties  which  have  to  be 
faced  in  the  work  of  practical  administration. 

There  were  four  rooms  to  decorate  and  furnish,  some  jrE.3,000 
to  spend,  and  the  question  was,  should  this  be  done  from  England, 
by  Maple  or  Waring,  or  some  other  firm,  or  could  it  be  done  in  Jerusalem 
by  local  craftsmen  ?  His  Excellency  the  High  Commissioner  decided 
on  the  local  venture,  and  put  the  work  in  my  hands.  The  experiment 
was  not  purely  aesthetic  ;  it  was  also  human.  I  think  that  all  con- 
structive ventures  in  the  crafts  have  their  human  side,  and  may  be 
submitted  to  a  human  as  well  as  a  merely  aesthetic  test  ;  for  it  is  a  fact 
daily  growing  clearer  to  us  that  in  these  days  of  the  industrial  helot 
state,  with  its  infinite  subdivisions  of  mechanical  labour,  we  often  get 
better  value  for  our  money  from  work  produced  among  groups  of 
men  working  happily  and  humanly  together,  and  conscious  of  their 
own  personal  creation,  than  from  work  produced  in  the  impersonal 
factory. 

In  the  Government  House  work  we  employed  six  main  groups 
of  craftsmen  : 

masons 

ceramic  painters  and  tile-makers 

blacksmiths 

cabinet-makers,  carvers  and  upholsterers 

weavers 

glass-blowers 
60 


WORK  DONE  AT  GOVERNMENT  HOUSE,  JERUSALEM 

Including  the  subordinate  crafts  in  each  case,  the  machine-minders, 
the  seamstresses,  the  journeymen  and  labourers,  there  were  from 
forty  to  fifty  craftsmen  employed  over  a  great  many  months.  They 
were  practically  all  Palestinian,  and  all  the  work  was  local  with  the 
exception  of  the  silks,  which  I  had  woven  in  Cairo,  and  the  carpets 
which  I  selected  for  the  colour  schemes  I  needed.  The  stone  was 
local  marble  (Missi  Yahudi)  and  sandstone,  the  clay  was  local  clay, 
the  cotton  and  wool,  though  imported,  were  made  up  at  the  Jerusalem 
looms,  and  the  glass  was  from  Hebron.  Wood  there  was  none  in  the 
country,  so  my  selection  was  limited  to  such  slight  and  carefully  hidden 
stocks,  Indian  woods  mainly,  as  had  been  left  over  from  the  wastage 
of  the  war. 

The  chief  difficulty,  and  it  is  the  difficulty  familiar  to  every 
administrator  in  Palestine,  was  labour  co-ordination.  How  were  all 
these  different  races  and  religions,  with  their  various  traditions  and 
customs,  to  be  got  to  work  together .-'  In  Jerusalem  we  had  not  only 
every  variety  of  race  and  language  as  a  natural  condition,  but  on  the 
top  of  it  all  the  disorganization  of  the  war,  and  the  chronic  confusion 
which  industrialism  has  introduced  into  the  crafts,  a  condition  that  is 
now  rapidly  disintegrating  the  traditional  methods  of  the  East,  as  it 
has  long  ago  destroyed  those  of  our  western  workshops. 

But  craftsmanship  and  the  love  of  craftsmanship — the  cunning 
of  a  man's  own  right  hand — was  found  here  to  be,  as  so  often  before  in 
human  story,  a  great  amalgam  ;  and  it  was  interesting  to  observe  how 
all  these  different  work-people,  Moslems,  Christians,  Jews  ;  English, 
French,  German  ;  Greeks,  Armenians,  Syrians,  Poles,  and  Russians, 
with  no  common  language,  and  who  when  the  machine-guns  of  the 
mandatory  Power  patrol  the  streets  are  ready  to  be  at  each  others' 
throats,  were  working,  jesting,  and  in  the  end  banqueting  harmoniously 
together.  Of  my  four  foremen,  one  talked  Greek,  Arabic,  and  French  ; 
the  second  Arabic,  French,  and  Armenian  ;  the  third  German  and 
Arabic  ;  and  the  fourth  Arabic  and  Turkish.  Among  the  Jewish 
carvers,  upholsterers,  and  seamstresses  the  languages  were  Yiddish, 
Polish,  Russian,  and  there  may  have  been  a  dash  of  classic  Hebrew 
and  American  Bowery  English.  Whatever  the  aesthetic  merits  of  the 
work  may  be  which  this  polyglot  community  produced,  it  was  an  object- 
lesson  in  the  futility  of  political  methods  as  set  beside  the  cohesive 
power  of  the  arts  and  crafts  when  practised  rather  than  talked  about. 

6i 


WORK  DONE  AT  GOVERNMENT  HOUSE,  JERUSALEM 

I  give  here  three  illustrations,  one  of  the  drawing-room  (No.  55) 
and  two  of  the  dining-room  (Nos.  56,  57).  In  the  first  will  be  seen 
some  of  the  wood-work  and  the  treatment  of  the  walls,  the  hangings, 
and  the  inlaid  and  other  furniture.  The  scheme  was  a  greenish  blue 
with  purple  and  gold.  In  the  latter  the  effect  was  got  by  following 
the  blue  turquoise  and  green  pattern  work  designs  of  certain  traditional 
sixteenth-century  colour  schemes  in  the  Dome  of  the  Rock.  In  the 
rendering  of  these  schemes  the  Kutahia  workmen  are  masters. 

My  plan  for  the  completion  of  the  dining-room  some  day  is  to 
carry  the  rich  blue  panelling  and  tile  work  up  to  the  curve  of  the 
dome,  on  the  wall  opposite  the  large  window.  This  will  give  their  full 
value  to  the  golden  "  atlas  "  hangings,  and  to  the  sideboard  with  its 
peachblossom  marble  and  its  carved  and  gilded  Indian  woods  (No.  57). 

Two  other  rooms  were  worked  out,  the  Library  in  a  scheme  of 
grey  and  raisin-coloured  silks,  and  Lady  Samuel's  boudoir  in  white 
with  dark  indigo  and  red  striped  Bethlehem  hangings.  In  the  details 
of  the  design  I  worked  to  no  style,  but  tried  to  make  things  that  should 
first  serve  their  needs  and  then  have  about  them  something  of  the 
character  of  the  country.  There  are  many  essentially  Syrian  forms, 
such  as  the  twisted  cord,  the  corded  hoop,  and  similar  simple  patterns 
and  mouldings  that  are  Byzantine  or  Arabic  in  character  and  go  well  in 
local  stone  and  wood. 

The  electroliers  were  made  of  Hebron  glass  in  great  pendant 
clusters  of  blue  and  white  mosque  lamps  and  hanging  bead  work. 
One  hopes  that  this  method  of  light,  which  will  always  need  some 
sort  of  shell  or  screen  around  the  glass  bulb,  may  help  revive  a  beautiful 
if  unhappy  craft  that  has  fallen  on  such  evil  days.  The  Pro-Jerusalem 
Society  was  just  engaged  in  its  Hebron  glass  experiments,  so  a  special 
furnace  was  constructed  below  the  Via  Dolorosa  at  the  new  tile  works 
of  the  Dome  of  Rock  pottery.  And  during  the  making  of  this  glass 
a  curious  and  significant  thing  happened.  It  was  of  the  utmost 
importance  that  the  work  should  be  done  by  a  certain  date,  but  nothing 
could  move  the  old  Moslem  craftsmen.  They  would  conform  to  no 
time  conditions  I  desired  to  impose.  And  why  ?  Because  their  craft 
of  glass-blowing  was  implicit  with  the  seasons  of  Palestinian  agriculture. 
"  If,"  said  they,  "  the  High  Commissioner  desired  their  glass  he  must 
first  wait  till  the  tomato  crop  was  harvested."  And  wait  we  had  to. 
"  Why  should  these  things  be  hurried  ?  "  said  the  old  Moslem  crafts- 
62 


m^/:^/,)^///:-: 


\    /■;;?^'^-;^;.?wsfci;; 


* 

^ 

k, , 

•m 

■I 

II 


Government   Hoi/se,    'Jerusalem.      The   Draicing- 


room. 


^0.    55. 


Government    House,    Jerusalem.      The    Dining-room. 


No.   56. 


'■^    S    i'    •> 


Gover/ime/u  House,  Jerusalem.      The  sideboard  'in  the 
Dining-room^  designed  by  C.  R.  Ashbee. 


No.   ij. 


[63 


WORK  DONE  AT  GOVERNMENT  HOUSE,  JERUSALEM 

men.  "  You  cannot  hurry  the  seasons.  God's  blessing  rests  on  those 
who  observe  His  ways  and  do  not  hustle.  Hustling  is  a  western 
disease  and  connotes  factories, and  mechanical  transportand  faithlessness, 
with  other  evils  that  are  coming  upon  this  land.  But  Allah  is  merci- 
ful !  "  There  is  a  slender  hope  He  yet  may  grant  His  blessing.  Every 
evening  after  the  last  form  was  drawn  from  the  fire  the  old  glass-worker 
spread  his  prayer-mat  out  beside  his  furnace, and  he  and  his  two  assistants 
would  ask  that  blessing  on  their  work. 

C.     R.     ASHBEE. 

Jerusalem,  July   1922. 


63 


An  Account  of  the  New  Jewish 
Garden  Cities,  etc.,  and  the 
Modifications  they  entail  in  the 
Town  Plan 

By  C.   R.  Ashbee 

Among  the  most  interesting  developments  in  the  modern  con- 
structive work  of  Jerusalem  are  the  various  plans  and  proposals  for 
building  upon  which  different  Jewish  groups  are  engaged  under  the 
auspices,  for  the  most  part, of  the  Palestine  Land  Development  Company. 

I  am  indebted  for  the  information  here  following  partly  to  Dr. 
Ruppin,  the  chairman  of  the  company,  with  whom  it  was  my  privilege 
to  serve  for  many  months  upon  the  Central  Town  Planning  Commis- 
sion, and  partly  to  the  architect  of  the  company,  Mr.  Kauffmann,  many 
of  whose  plans  I  am  showing  here,  and  all  of  which  had  to  come 
before  me  in  my  capacity  as  Civic  Adviser  and  Secretary  of  the  Jerusa- 
lem Town  Planning  Commission.  In  several  instances  it  has  been 
my  business  to  modify  and  to  co-ordinate. 

If  reference  be  made  again  to  the  key  plan  No.  34  on  page  17  it 
will  be  seen  how  these  specifically  Jewish  schemes  are  being  linked  on  to 
the  general  town  planning  of  the  city.  There  are  five  so  far,  and  I 
would  say  a  word  or  two  as  to  each  :  Antiochus,  Talpioth,  Janjirieh,, 
Boneh  Bayit,  and  Antimus  Porah.  With  the  exception  of  Antiochus^ 
which  is  in  Part  I  of  the  Plan,  they  occupy  the  parts  to  the  south  and 
west  of  the  city. 

ANTIOCHUS 

The  decision  to  sell  some  of  the  lands  of  the  Orthodox  Patriarchate 
of  Jerusalem  brought  into  the  market  the  land  at  the  corner  of  the 
Mamilla  Cemetery  (see  No.  41  on  page  23). 

An  important  road  improvement  was  carried  out  at  this  pointy 
on  a  very  uneasy  corner  in  between  two  rather  steep  slopes,  and  the 
higher  portion  of  the  land  to  the  south-west  of  the  new  road  had 
64 


Block  plan  of  Antiochus 


Model  oj  block  plan  oj  Antiochus, 
with  British  Government's  plot 
shown  in  outline. 


No. 


59- 


Elevation  of  block  plan.      Antiochus. 
64] 


j\o.    60. 


VITOATIOH    PLJsN 

T/\L.P10TtL 


Talptoth    Garden    City.      Block  plan. 


No.   6i.  . 


5^ 


■^ 

o 

^ 

.6 

o 

^i 

1 

^ 

^.4 

e? 

i^} 

m 

-:5^ 

Wk 

f^ 

THE   NEW  JEWISH   GARDEN   CITIES 

already  been  given  by  the  Greek  Patriarch,  to  the  Turkish  Administra- 
tion, for  a  public  building.  This  plot  is  shown  at  the  top  of  plan 
No.  41,  as  "  B.  Government's  plot,"  and  the  suggested  building  upon 
it  is  indicated  in  outline  in  No.  59.  The  new  plans  for  Antiochus 
had  therefore  to  take  these  two  facts  into  consideration.  It  will  be 
seen  in  the  architect's  block  plan  No.  58  and  the  photograph  of  his 
model  No.  59  that  this  proposed  public  building  must  in  the  future 
determine  the  axis  of  the  new  Ridge  Road  ;  also  the  new  corner  of 
the  road  from  the  Post  Office  to  the  railway  station  has  been  a  dominating 
feature.  But  even  more  important  has  been  the  linking  up  of  the 
Antiochus  group  with  the  Ridge  Road,  and  the  plans  shown  here  should 
be  compared  with  that  on  p.  23.  When  the  new  town  plan  for  this 
area  was  under  consideration  a  co-ordination  was  envisaged  of  the 
following :  the  Jaffa  Gate  improvement  scheme  (see  No.  40),  the  opening 
out  in  front  of  the  Jaffa  Gate,  including  the  new  market,  the  park 
reservation  in  the  valley  of  Mes,  and  the  proposed  new  hotel  in  the 
Ard  es  Sillam  (see  No.  41). 

The  accommodation  which  the  present  Antiochus  scheme  provides, 
and  some  of  which  is  shown  on  the  plan,  is  as  follows :  on  a  total  new 
area  of  19,270  square  pics,  approximately  200  shops.  About  50  of 
these  are  small  bazaars.  There  are  further  four  buildings  for  banks, 
each  building  site  being  1,000  square  metres,  and  there  are  offices  and 
ware  houses.  The  elevation  No.  60  is  shown  through  the  proposed 
Suq  and  shop  buildings. 


THE  TALPIOTH   GARDEN   CITY 

The  proposed  suburb  lies  to  the  south  of  Jerusalem  beyond  the 
station,  and  the  key  plan  on  p.  17  already  referred  to  shows  it  as 
No.  VI.  The  plan  No.  6 1  explains  the  relation  of  the  site  to  the  Holy 
City,  to  the  Bethlehem  road,  the  railway  station,  and  the  monastery  of 
Mar  Elias.  The  proposed  garden  city  is  to  be  on  high  ground  ;  a 
part  of  it  at  one  time  was  the  landing  station  for  aeroplanes.  The 
photographs  of  the  architect's  contour  plan  and  models  Nos;  62,  63, 
64,  give  an  idea  of  the  disposition. 

The  total  area  is  given  as  1,859,544  square  pics,  or  1,068,650 
square   metres,   from  which  have  to  be  deducted  the  area  for  roads. 

L  65 


THE   NEW  JEWISH   GARDEN   CITIES 

The  accommodation  proposed  is  as  follows,  and  this  should  be  studied 
on  the  plan  No.  62,  upon  which  also  the  contours  are  shown. 

Private  plots  with  houses  :   ca.  800. 

Town  Hall. 

Hotel. 

Baths. 

Post  Office. 

Co-operative  distributive  store  for  food-stufFs. 

Theatre. 

Academy. 

Synagogue. 

Hospital. 

The  area  allowed  for  parks  and  plantations  is  given  as  160,892 
square  pics  (92,450  square  metres),  and  for  the  sporting  ground  21,936 
square  pics  (12,600  square  metres),  making  a  total  area  for  public  open 
space  reservation  of  28,873  square  pics  (16,550  square  metres),  and  a 
net  area  for  plots  of  1,294,658  square  pics  (801,488  square  metres). 

An  extract  from  Mr.  Kauffmann's  explanatory  Report  is  worth 
quoting,  and  in  the  language  of  the  Report.  It  should  be  read  in 
conjunction  with  the  drawings.  "  Die  naturliche  form  Talpioth's 
bedingt  seine  stadtbauliche  Gestaltung.  Die  Kuppe  des  ovalen  Berges 
wird  bekront  von  weiten  und  grossartig  gedachten  Monumentalbauten. 
Hier  in  diesem  kulminationspunkt  des  Ganzen  sei  praktisch  und  ideell 
alles  zusammengefasst,  was  eine  grosse  Menschensiedelung  gemeinsam 
haben  und  Kronen  soil." 

The  planning  and  the  dream  are  symbolic  of  Zionist  activities,  and 
it  is  interesting  to  note  how  these  are  already  modifying  the  town  plan 
of  Jerusalem.  That  it  will  all  materialize  as  set  forth  in  Mr.  Kauffmann's 
Report  and  drawings  is  improbable,  but  one  must  admire  the  enthusiasm 
and  the  hope. 

THE  JANJIRIEH   GARDEN   CITY 

This  is  a  less  ambitious  undertaking  (see  No.  65),  and  one  that 
will  more  readily  come  together  with  the  English,  Greek,  and  Moslem 
building  projects  in  this,  the  south-western  area  of  the  city,  in  which 
one  of  the  principal  building  developments  is  to  be  anticipated. 

The  total  area  is  212,000  square  pics  (about  120,000  square 
66 


Jcuijir'ich  Garden  City.      Block  plan . 


No.    65. 


The  Proposed  Synagogue.  No.    66. 

Janjirieh  Garden  City, 


66] 


Boneh  Bay  it  Garden  City.     Key  plan. 


No.  67. 


No.   68. 


Antimus  Porah  in  the  Jajfa 
Road.      Block  plan. 


Boneh   Bayit   Garden    City.     Model. 


No.   69. 


THE   NEW  JEWISH  GARDEN   CITIES 

metres),  net  163,000  pics  (about  94,000  square  metres)  ;  there  are  1 14 
plots  reserved  for  private  building,  besides  plots  for  business  premises, 
a  Hebrew  high  school,  a  synagogue,  etc.  The  plan  should  be  carefully 
studied,  it  explains  itself,  and  the  contours  are  shown.  The  architect 
contributes  with  the  above  figures  a  sketch  of  the  synagogue  which  it  is 
proposed  to  erect  upon  the  high  land  to  the  north  of  the  site  (No.  66). 

THE   BONEH   BAYIT   (GARDEN   CITY)   (NOW 
"  BETH-HAKEREM  ") 

The  last  of  the  proposed  Jewish  enterprises  which  has  so  far  been 
incorporated  into  the  Jerusalem  town  plan  is  the  garden  city  planned 
on  the  road  to  Ain  Karem  ;  it  is  No.  VIII  on  the  key  plan  on  page  17. 
It  covers  approximately  280  dunems  of  land.  The  contours  on  the 
plan  are  characteristic  of  Jud^ean  landscape  and  well  worth  noting 
(No.  67),  as  also  the  manner  in  which  the  architect  has  handled  them. 
See  in  this  connection  the  photograph  of  the  model  (No.  69).  The 
accommodation  provided  is  as  follows 

School. 

Public  hall. 

Synagogue. 

Sports  ground. 

Play-ground. 

Co-operative  distributive  stores. 

Twenty-four  per  cent,  of  the  total  area  is  devoted  to  roads,  open 
spaces,  green  belt  area,  and  public  building,  and  there  are  148  separate 
lots,  of  which  29  are  i  dunem  in  area  and  119  two  dunem. 

ANTIMUS   PORAH   IN  THE  JAFFA   ROAD 

One  other  minor  Jewish  enterprise  is  worth  noting  in  so  far  as 
it  affects  the  modification  of  the  town  plan  ;  it  is  the  treatment  of  the 
piece  of  land  skirting  the  Jaffa  road  from  the  point  where  at  present 
the  cinema  stands,  northwards  through  the  old  sports  ground  and 
westwards  towards  Tabitha  Cumi.  The  architect's  block  plan  is 
given  (No.  68). 

C.     R.    ASHBEE. 

Jerusalem,  August   1922. 

67 


A  Provisional  Bibliography  of  the 
Moslem  Architecture  of  Syria  and 
Palestine 

By  K.  a.  C.  Creswell,  M.R.A.S.,  Hon.  A.R.I.B.A. 


A  Provisional  Bibliography  of  the 
Moslem  Architecture  of  Syria  and 
Palestine 

By  K.  a.  C.  Creswell,  M.R.A.S.,  Hon.  A.R.I.B.A. 


FOREWORD 

The  following  bibliography  forms  one  section  of  a 
Bibliography  of  the  Architecture,  Arts,  and  Crafts  of 
Islam,  the  completion  of  which  was  stopped  by  the 
war.  In  its  present  state  it  consists  of  about  4,700 
different  entries  under  "Authors,"  and  about  6,700 
under  "  Subjects."  It  is  not  possible  to  publish  it 
now  in  the  form  of  a  book,  and  I  am  accordingly 
endeavouring  to  puMish  sections  of  it  as  opportunity 
offers.  The  section  on  the  Moslem  Architecture  of 
India  has  already  appeared  in  the  Indian  A  ntiquary. 
May  and  September  1922.  I  may  add  that  I  have 
personally  seen  and  examined  every  item  in  the 
following  list  (except  those  marked  •),  either  in 
the  libraries  of  the  British  Museum,  the  India  Office, 
the  Royal  Asiatic  Society,  the  Royal  Institute  of 
British  Architects,  the  Art  Library  at  South  Ken- 
sington or  elsewhere.  I  shall  be  extremely  grateful 
to  those  readers  who  are  kind  enough  to  notify  me 
of  omissions. 

Arrangement : 

I.    Guide-books. 
II.    General  Works, 
in.    For  Jerusalem  only. 
IV.   For  Qusair  'Amra  only. 
V.    For  the  Palace  of  MshattS  only. 

I.  GUIDE-BOOKS 

A  Guide-book  to  Central  Palestine, 
Samaria  and  Southern  Galilee,  including 
Nablus,  Arsuf,  Haifa,  Acre,  Nazareth, 
Tiberias  and  their  Districts,  with  His- 
torical Appendix  and  four  Maps.  Based 
upon  the  well-known  enemy  publication 
Baedeker's  Palestine  &  Syria,  and 
augmented  by  numerous  additions.  Sm. 
8vo,  pp.  III. 

"  The    Palestine    News,"    Jerusalem, 

1918. 
Palestine  Pocket  Guide-books  (vol.  II). 

Baedeker,  Karl.  Palestine  and  Syria, 
with  routes  through  Mesopotamia  and 
Babylonia  and  the  Island  of  Cyprus. 
Handbook  for  travellers.     With  21  maps, 

70 


56  plans,  and  a  panorama  of  Jerusalem. 
Fifth  edition,  remodelled  and  augmented. 
8vo,  pp.  civ  and  462. 

Baedeker,  Leipzig  :    Unwin,  London, 
1912. 

Review    [of    French    edition],   S.  R[einach], 
Review  archiologique,  ive  serie,  tome  xiv,  p.  445. 

Brodrick,  Mary.  Handbook  for  Tra- 
vellers in  Syria  and  Palestine,  including 
a  short  account  of  the  geography,  history, 
and  religious  and  political  divisions  of 
these  countries,  together  with  detailed 
description  of  Jerusalem,  Damascus, 
Palmyra,  Baalbek,  and  the  interesting 
ruined  cities  of  Moab,  Gilead,  and  Ba- 
shan.  A  revised  edition.  With  new 
maps  and  plans.  8vo,  pp.  lii,  3  and  426. 
Stanford,  London,  1903. 

One  of  Murray's  Handbooks. 

Chauvet,  Ad.  and  E.  Isambert.  Itine- 
raire  descriptif,  historique,  et  archeolo- 
gique  de  I'Orient.  Tome  troisieme  :  Syrie, 
Palestine,  comprenant  le  Sinai,  I'Arabie 
petree  et  la  Cilicie.  4  cartes,  62  plans  et 
coupes,  et  5  vues.  Sm.  8vo,  pp.  Iviii  and 
848,  maps  in  separate  case. 

Hachette,  Paris,  1882. 

One  of  the  Collection  des  Guides-Joanne. 

Lievin  de  Hamme,  Le  irere.  Guide- 
Indicateur  des  sanctuaires  et  lieux  his- 
toriques  de  la  Terre-Sainte.  Seconde 
edition,  revue,  augmentee,  et  accompagnee 
de  cartes  et  de  plans.  8vo,  3  parts, 
pp.  xxviii  and  391  ;  xx  and  200  ;  xxvii 
and  254,  with  folding  map. 

Lefever,  Louvain,  1876. 


MOSLEM   ARCHITECTURE   IN   PALESTINE 


Macmillan's  Guide  to  Palestine  and 
Syria.  With  thirteen  maps  and  six  plans. 
Fifth  edition.     8vo,  pp.  xxxi  and  164. 

MacmUlan,  London,  1910. 

Meisterman,     Pere    Bamab6,    O.F.M. 

Nouveau  guide  de  Terre  Sainte.  Avec  23 
cartes  en  couleurs  et  no  plans  de  vUles 
et  de  monuments  dans  le  texte  et  hors 
texte.     izmo,  pp.  xliii  and  610. 

Picard,  Paris,  1907. 

Reynolds-Ball,  Eustace.  Jerusalem.  A 
practical  guide  to  Jerusakm  and  its 
environs,  with  excursions  to  Bethlehem, 
Hebron,  Jericho,  the  Dead  Sea,  and  the 
Jordan,  Nablous,  Nazareth,  Beirut,  Baal- 
bek, Damascus,  etc.  (Second  edition.  Re- 
vised and  enlarged.)  With  eight  full-page 
illustrations  in  colour  by  John  Fulleylove, 
R.I.,  and  five  maps  and  plans.  Sm.  8vo, 
pp.  viii  and  238. 

A.  &  C.  Black,  London,  1912. 

First  edition  :  1901. 

IL    GENERAL 

Ahmed  Djemal  Pascha.  Alte  Denk- 
maler  aus  Syrien,  Palastina,  und  West- 
arabien.  100  Tafeln  mit  beschreibendem 
Text.  Veroffentlicht  auf  Befehl  von 
Ahmed  Djemal  Pascha.  4to,  pp.  [vii] 
and  I  page  of  text,  in  Turkish  and  German, 
to  each  plate. 

Reimer,  Berlin,  1918. 

Alouf,  Michel  M.  History  of  Baalbek. 
1 2th  edition,  revised  and  completed. 
i2mo,  pp.  vii  and  155,  with  5  plates  and 
2  plans. 

Catholic  Printing  Press,  Beyrut,  1914. 

Qubbat  Satha,  Qubbat  as-Sa'adin,  Qubbat 
Duris,  Qubbat  al-Amjad,  pp.  5-6  ;  Mosque  at 
Ras  al-'Ain,  p.  3. 

Anon.  A  Room  from  "  the  Street 
called  Straight."  The  Connoisseur,  Vol. 
xxxvi,  pp.  132-134,  with  I  coloured  plate. 

Plate:  "  i6tb-i7th  [i8th?]  century  old 
panelled  room  from  Damascus,  about  16  x  14 
X  12  ft.  high."  Exhibited  in  London  at  the 
Vincent  Robinson  Galleries,  Wigmore  Street. 


Apostolidhis,  D.  L' Architecture  en 
Palestine.  La  Construction  Moderne^  tome 
XXV,  pp.  391-393,  with  2  illustrations. 

Includes  a  fine  large  illustration  of  the  Dome 
of  the  Rock  (exterior). 

Banse,  Ewald.  Die  Gubab-Hiitten  Nord- 
Syriens  und  Nordwest-Mesopotamiens. 
Orientalisches  Archiv,  Jahrg.  ii,  pp.  173- 
179,  with  4  illustrations  on  i  plate,  a  map, 
and  6  figures.  1912. 

Modem  representatives  of  the  domed  huts 
shown  on  Layard's  slab.  These  huts  are  first 
met  with  as  the  valley  opens  out  into  the  plain 
to  the  south  of  Homs,  and  are  a  constant  feature 
from  Homs  to  the  north  of  Aleppo  and  thence 
to  Mesopotamia. 

Bell,  Grertrude  Lowthian.  Amurath  to 
Amurath.  8vo,  pp.  xvii  and  370,  with 
234  illustrations  and  a  folding  map. 

Heinemann,  London,  191 1. 

Aleppo,  pp.  1-16,  with  13  illustrations. 

Bell,  H.  J.  Greek  Papyri  in  the  British 
Museum.  Catalogue  with  Texts.  Vol.  iv, 
The  Aphrodito  Papyri.  With  an  Appen- 
dix of  Coptic  Papyri,  edited  by  W.  E. 
Crum.     4to,  pp.  xlviii  and  648. 

British  Museum,  London,  1910. 

See  pp.  12-13,  42-43  and  80  for  papyri  relating 
to  the  Great  Umayyad  Mosque  at  Damascus, 
and  pp.  74,  75,  for  one  relating  to  a  mosque  at 
Jerusalem. 

.     Translations    of    the     Greek 


Aphrodito  Papyri  in  the  British  Museum. 
Der  Islam,  ii,  pp.  269-283,  372-384 ; 
iii,  pp.  132-140,  369-373;  and  iv,  pp. 
87-96.  1911-1913. 

See  ii,  p.  374,  and  iii,  pp.  133,  371  and  373 
for  papyri  relating  to  the  Great  Mosque  at 
Damascus  ;  and  ii,  p.  383  and  iii,  pp.  137  and  370 
for  papyri  relating  to  a  mosque  and  palace 
being  built  for  the  Amir  al-Mu'minin  at 
Jerusalem. 

Berchem,  Max  van.  Le  Chateau  de 
Banias  et  ses  inscriptions.  Journal 
Asiatique,  viii°  serie,  tome  xii,  pp.  440-470, 
with  I  plate  (plan).  1888. 

.      Notes    d'archeologie   arabe. 

Monuments  et  inscriptions  fatimites. 
Journal  Asiaiique,  viii*  serie,  tome  xvii, 

71 


MOSLEM   ARCHITECTURE   IN   PALESTINE 


pp.   411-495,   uith    I    folding    plate  and 
I  plan  ;    tome  xviii,  pp.  46-86.  1 891. 

Inscriptions  on  the  Great  Mosque  at  Damascus, 
etc.,  pp.  420-423. 

Berchem,  Max  van.  Notes  d'archeobgie 
arabe.  Deuxieme  article.  Toulounides  et 
fatimites.  Journal  Asiatique,  viii°  serie, 
tome  xix,  pp.  377-407.  1892. 

Inscriptions  on  the  Great  Mosque  at  Damascus, 
etc.,  pp.  394-397- 

.     Eine   arabische   Inschrift   aus 


dem  Ostjordanlande  mit  historischen 
Erlauterungen.  Zeitschr.  d.  Deutschen 
Palaestina-V ereins.  Band  xvi,  pp.  84-105, 
with  I  plate.  1892. 

Inscription  from  the  wall  of  the   Khan   al- 
'Akabe,  dated  a.h.  5io  (1213). 

Recherches    archeo    logiques 


en  Syrie.  Lettre  a  M.  Barbier  de  Meynard. 
Journal  Asiatique,  ix'  serie,  tome  vi,  pp. 
485-515.  1895. 

.     Arabische      Inschriften      aus 


Syrien.  Zeitschr.  d.  Deutschen  Palaes- 
tina-Vereins,  Band  xix,  pp.  105-113,  with 
I  plate.  1896. 

Inscriptions  from  buildings  at  alMu'arriba, 
Bosra,  Der'at,  the  Haram  in  Hebron,  etc. 

Epigraphie   des   Assassins   de 


Syrie.    Journal  Asiatique,  9™*  serie,  tome 
ix,  pp.  453-501,  with  I  plate.  1897. 

For  resume  see  the  Comptes  Rendus  de  I'Acad. 
des  Inscr.  et  Belles -Lettres,  4""  serie,  tome  xxv, 
pp.  201-208.  1897. 

For  the  inscriptions  on  the  castles  of  Masyad, 
Kahf  and  Qadmus. 

.     Inscriptions  arabes  de  Syrie. 

Memoires  de  I'lnstitut  Egyptien,  tome  iii, 
pp.  417-520,  with  8  plates.  1897. 

.     Les   chateaux   des   croises  en 


Syrie.  Union  syndicate  des  architectes 
francais ;  bull,  et  comptes  rendus  des 
travaux,  iv,  pp.  260-276,  with  10  illustra- 
tions. 1897. 

See  vol.  V,  p.  283. 
72 


Berchem,  Max  van.   Arabische  Inschriften 

aus   Syrien    II.      Mitth.    und  Nuchr.  des 

Deutschen  Palaestina-V  ereins,   Jahrg.    ix, 

pp.  3 3-70,  with  15  illustrations  (facsimiles). 

1903. 

Includes    several      dating     inscriptions    of 
buildings. 

.     Monuments  et  inscriptions  de 

I'atabek  Lu'lu'  de  Mossoul.     Orientalische 

Stiidien  (Jheodor  Noldeke  Festschrift),  Band 

i,  pp.  197-210,  with  I  figure  (inscription). 

Topelmann,   Gieszen,    1906. 

.     Muhammadan  Architecture  in 


Syria  and  Egypt.  Article  in  the  Ency- 
clopcedia  of  Religion  and  Ethics,  vol.  i, 
pp.  757-760.  1908. 

Epigraphie    des    Atabeks    de 


Damas.     Florilegium  Melchior  de  VogUe, 
pp.  29-43,  with  2  plates.  1909- 

Dating  inscriptions  on  mosques,  etc. 

Inschriften  aus  Syrien,  Meso- 


potamien  und  Kleinasien  gesammelt 
im  Jahre  1899  von  Max  Freiherrn  von 
Oppenheim,  mit  Beitragen  von  Max  van 
Berchem,  Julius  Euting,  Nicolaus  Finck, 
Alfred  Jeremias,  Leopold  Messerschmidt, 
Bernhard  Moritz.  I. — Arabische  Inschrif- 
ten, bearbeitet  von  Max  van  Berchem,  mit 
26  Abbildungen  und  7  Lichtdrucktafeln. 
8vo,  pp.  156. 

Hinrichs,  Leipzig,  1909. 

Beitrdge    zur    Assyriologie    und    semitischen 
Sprachwissenscha/t,  vii,  i. 

The      Principal      Forms      of 


Islamic  Religious  Buildings  (Syro-Egyp- 
tian  School).  Article  in  the  Encyclopcedia 
of  Islam,  vol.  i,  pp.  422-425.  1910. 

Berchem,  Max  van,  and  Joseph  Strzy- 
gowski.     Amida.     410. 

Winter,  Heidelberg,  1910. 

See  p.  312  and  Abb.  258  (Mosque  at  Baalbek)  ; 
pp.  316,  320-32,  and  Abb.  263  and  268  (Great 
Mosque  at  Damascus),  pp.  324-325  and  Abb.  271- 
272  (Baalbek). 


MOSLEM   ARCHITECTURE   IN   PALESTINE 


Berchem,  Max  van,  and  Edmond  Fatio. 

Voyage  en  Syrie.     Impl.  410,  2  vols.,  pp. 

xvi  and  344,  with  2  folding  maps  and  179 

figures  ;    78  plates. 

Le  Caire,  1913-14. 

Tripoli,     Homs,     Qal'at     al-Mudiq,     Aleppo, 
HSrim,  Baalbek,  etc. 

Bischof,  Dr.  Tuhaf  al-anba'  fi  ta'rikh 
Halab.     Sm.  8vo,  pp.  163. 

Beyrut,  1880. 
Contains  transliterations  of  dating  inscriptions 
on  many  monuments  of  Aleppo. 

Blochet,  E.  L'Histoire  d'Alep  de 
Kamal-ad-Din.  Version  frangaise  d'apres 
le  texte  arabe.  Revue  de  VOrient  Latin, 
tomes  iii,  pp.  509-565  ;  iv,  145-225  ; 
V,  37-107;    and  vi,  1-49.  1895-1898. 


.  Do.  Tirage  a  part,  with  title- 
page  :  "  Kamal-ad-Din.  Histoire  d'Alep 
traduite  avec  des  notes  historiques  et 
geographiques.     8vo,  pp.  256. 

Leroux,  Paris,  1900. 

Appendice  I  :  "  Sur  la  topographie  de  la  ville 
d'Alep,  quelques  details  empruntes  A  la  Descrip- 
tion d'Alep,  MS.  ar.  1683  de  la  Bibliotheque 
nationale,"  vi,  pp.  20-39,  and  /.  d.  p.,  pp.  226- 
242. 

Appendice  II  :  "  Inscriptions  arabes  de  Noilr 
ad-Din  et  des  souverains  Ayyoubites  dans  la 
ville  d'Alep,"  vi,  pp.  39-49,  and  t.  d.  p.,  pp. 
245-255- 

Borghese,    Scipione.     In    Asia.     Siria- 

Eufrate-Babilonia.     Con  235  illustrazioni 

da  fotografie  di  A.  M.  Borghese  ed  una 

carta.     (2a  edizione  riveduta  dall'  autore.) 

Large  8vo,  pp.  224. 

Institute    Italiano    d'Arti    Grafiche, 

Bergamo,   1904. 

Collezione  di  Monografie  illustrate.  Serie 
Viaggi,  No.  2. 

See  chap,  ii,  Damascus. 

Borrmann,  Richard.  Die  Baukunst  des 
Altertums  und  des  Islam  im  Mittelalter. 
4to. 

Seemann,  Leipzig,  1904. 
See  pp.  323-327,  with  5  illustrations. 

Bourgoin,  J.  Claire-voie  (xvi°  siecle) 
dans  la  grande  mosquee  de  Damas. 
Revue    generale    de    f  Architecture    et    des 

M 


Travaux  publics,   tome   xxxvii,   col.    247, 
and  plate  54.  1880. 

Plate  signed  J.  Bourgoin. 

Bourgoin,  A.  Precis  de  Part  arabe, 
et  materiaux  pour  servir  a  la  theorie  et 
a  la  technique  des  arts  de  I'orient  musul- 
man.  4to,  in  4  parts,  pp.  ii,  16,  22,  25  and 
9,  with  300  plates  (many  coloured). 

Leroux,  Paris,  1892. 

Memoires  de  la  Mission  archeologique  franfaise 
au  Caire,  tome  vii. 

See  Part  I,  pis.  11-15,  17-20,  34-42  ;  II,  pis. 
12-15,  28-35,  56-60  ;  III,  pis.  14,  25-29,  74-75, 
and  85-86,  for  beautifully  drawn  details  of 
stalactite  doorways,  inlaid  panels,  minarets,  etc., 
etc.,  all  at  Jerusalem  or  Damascus. 

Bridel,  Rev.  Ph.  La  Palestine  illustree. 
Collection  de  vues  recueillies  en  Orient 
par  F.  et  E.  Thevoz.  Texte  explicatif 
par  Ph.  Bridel.     Oblong  4to. 

Lausanne,  1889. 

.  Palestine  of  To-day.  Illus- 
trated by  F.  Thevoz  &  Co.,  Geneva.  With 
text  translated  from  Rev.  Ph.  Bridel, 
Lausanne.  Revised  by  A.  H.  Marshall. 
Part  I.  [All  published.]  Oblong  4to,  10 
plates,  with  explanatory  text  interleaved. 
Marshall,  London.  (Printed  in  Lau- 
sanne.)    [1889.] 

.     Palestine  Illustrated.     A  Col- 


lection of   Views  obtained   in   the   Holy 

Land.     By  Messrs.   F.  Thevoz  &  Co.,  of 

Geneva.     Reproduced    by    Photogravure. 

With  descriptive  Letterpress  by  P.  Bridel. 

Series  I,  Part  I, — From  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem. 

[All  published.]     Oblong  4to,  pp.  [4],  with 

the  same   10  plates  and  nearly  identical 

text  interleaved. 

Society     for     Promoting     Christian 

Knowledge,  London,   1892. 

See  pi.  9,  Tower  of  the  Forty  Martyrs,  Ramleh, 
and  pi.  10,  Ramleh,  within  the  walls. 

Briggs,  Martin  S.  Through  Egypt  in 
War  Time.  8vo,  pp.  280,  with  67  illus- 
trations on  32  plates  (i  coloured)  and  2 
maps. 

Unwin,  London,  [191 8]. 

For  Khan  Yunus,  see  pp.  240-241,  and  plate 
facing  p.  242. 

73 


MOSLEM   ARCHITECTURE   IN   PALESTINE 


Briggs,  Martin  S.  The  Architecture  of 
Saladin  and  the  Influence  of  the 
Crusades  (a.d.  II71-1250).  Burlington 
Magazine,  vol.  xxxviii,  pp.  10-20,  with 
2  plates  and  2  figures.  1921. 

.  The  Saracenic  House.  Bur- 
lington Magazine,  vol.  xxxviii,  pp.  228- 
238,  with  2  plates  ;  pp.  289-301,  with 
2  plates  and  2  figures.  192 1. 

See  p.  301  and  Plates  iii  and  iv  for  houses  at 
Damascus. 

Briinnow,  Rudolf  Ernst,  and  Alfred  v. 

Domaszewski,     Die  Provincia  Arabia  auf 

Grund   zweier   in    den    Jahren    1897   und 

1898    unternommenen    Reisen    und    der 

Berichte  friiherer  Reisender  beschrieben. 

Impl.  4to,  3  vols.,  pp.  xxiv  and  532  ;    xii 

and  359  ;    xiv  and  403  ;    with  very  many 

plates,  illustrations,  plans,  maps,  etc. 

Triibner,  Strassburg,  1904-1909. 

Bd.  i,  ash-Shaubak,  pp.  113-119,  and  figs.  97- 
104  ;  Bd.  ii,  section  vi :  El-Mesetta  [Mashita], 
pp.  105-176,  with  4  double  plate  and  69  illustra- 
tions (many  full-page).  Mosque  at  al-Mana(jir, 
ii,  pp.  192-195,  and  figs.  180-784  ;  Qal'at  ad- 
Daba'a,  ii,  pp.  74-76,  and  figs.  655-656  ;  Mosque 
at  Bosra,  Bd.  iii,  pp.  39-40,  with  section  and 
plan,  stc,  etc. 

Briinnow,  R.  Uber  Musils  Forschungs- 
reisen.  Vienna  Oriental  Journal,  vol.  xxi, 
PP-  353-374;  xxii,  pp.  399-414;  xxiii, 
pp.  18-32.  1907-1909. 

An  article  on  Musil's,  Arabia  Peircea,  Bd. 
i  and  ii  [q.v.]. 

Burford,  Robert.  Description  of  a 
View  of  the  City  of  Damascus,  and  the 
surrounding  country,  now  exhibiting  at 
the  Panorama,  Leicester  Square.  Painted 
by  the  Proprietor,  Robert  Burford.  8vo, 
pp.  12,  with  folding  plate. 

Brettell,  London,  1841. 

Butler,      Howard      Crosby.      Ancient 
Architecture    in     Syria.     Section    A. — 
Southern    Syria.     4to,    pp.    xii   and   363, 
with  many  plates  and  illustrations. 

Brill,  Leyden,  1907-1915. 

Only  two  Muhammadan  buildings  are  de- 
scribed ;  both,  however,  are  important  on 
account  of  their  early  date:  (i)  Mosque  at 
Qusair  al-Hallabat,  probably  8th  century,  pp. 
74-77,  with  2  illustrations  and  6  figures,  aJso 

74 


Appendix,  pp.  xvi-xix,  with  i  illustration  and 
5  figures ;  (2)  Hammam  as-Sarakh,  a  bath 
building  almost  identical  with  Qusair  'Amra,  pp. 
77-80,  with  5  figures,  also  Appendix,  pp.  xix-xxv, 
with  4  illustrations  and  5  figures. 

Buyser,  Bray  de.  Interieur  d'une 
maison  arabe  a  Damas.  Revue  de  I'Oriefit, 
de  VAlgerie  et  des  Colonies,  nouvelle  serie, 
tome  i,  pp.  367-372.  1855. 

Chamonard,  J.  A  propos  du  Service 
des  antiquites  de  Syrie.  Syria,  tome  i, 
pp.   81-98.  1920. 

Choisy,  Auguste.     L'Art   de  batir  chez 

les    Byzantins.     Sm.   folio,    pp.    187   and 

[iv],  with  25  plates  and  178  figures. 

Soc.    anon,    de   publications    periodi- 

ques,  Paris,  1883. 

See  p.  85  and  planche  xxi,  for  the  squinches 
of  the  Great  Mosque  at  Damascus. 

.     Histoire     de     I'architecture. 


8vo,  2  vols.,  pp.  642  and  800,  with  1,700 

figures. 

Rouveyre,  Paris,  n.d. 

See  "  Architectures  musulmanes,"  tome  ii,  pp. 
83-138.  Scattered  information  on  Syrian  archi- 
tecture. 

Clermont-Ganneau,  Ch.     Inscription  du 

calife  el-Mahdi  relatant  la  construction  de 

la    mosquee    d'Ascalon    en    I'an    155    de 

I'hegire.     Journal    jisiatique,     8""*    serie, 

tome  ix,  pp.  485-491,  and  i  plate  (to  left). 

1887. 

Reprinted  in  his  Recueil  d'arckiologie  orientate, 
i,  pp.  214-218,  and  planche  xi  (to  left).       1887. 

.  L'Inscription  de  Banias.  Jour- 
nal jisiatique,  8°*  serie,  tome  x,  pp.  496- 
509.  1887. 

Reprinted  in  his  Recueil  d' archiologie  orientale, 
tome  i,  pp.  241-252.  1888. 

See  also  Gildemeister  :  A  rabische  Inschrift  vom 
Nahr  Banijas. 

.     Le  Port  de  Lydda   construit 

par  le  sultan  Beibars.  Journal  A siatique, 
8"°*  serie,  tome  x,  pp.  509-527,  with  I 
double  plate;  xi,  pp.  305-310  with  2 
plates.  1887-1888. 

The  first  part  of  the  above  (pp.  509-527)  was 
reprinted  in  his  Recueil  d' archiologie  orientale, 
tome  i,  pp.  262-279,  with  the  three  plates  (1888). 

An  English  translation  subsequently  appeared 
in  his  Archa-ological  Researches  in  Palestine  [q.v.], 
vol.  ii,  pp.  102-118  and  470  (1896). 


MOSLEM   ARCHITECTURE   IN   PALESTINE 


Clermont-Ganneau,  Ch.  Archsological 
Researches  in  Palestine  during  the  years 
1873-4.  With  numerous  illustrations 
from  drawings  made  on  the  spot  by 
A.  Lecomte  de  Noiiy,  Architect.  Trans- 
lated by  Aubray  Stewart,  M.A.  [Vol.  ii, 
by  John  Macfarlane.]  2  vols.,  4to,  pp. 
xvii  and  528  ;   x  and  504. 

Palestine  Exploration  Fund,  London, 

1899,  1896. 

See  vol.  i,  pp.  127-178  for  the  Haram  ash- 
Sharlf  ;  179-227  for  the  author's  most  important 
researches  on  the  Dome  of  the  Rock  ;  p.  234, 
Khan  as-Sultan. 

See  vol.  ii,  pp.  47-48  for  the  shrine  of  Nebi 
Musa ;  pp.  102-118,  for  mosque  (converted 
church)  with  minaret,  and  bridge  (Jisr  Jindas) 
at  Ludd  ;  119-122,  mosque  (converted  church) 
at  Ramla ;  167-182,  for  mosque  (converted 
church),  shrine  of  Abi  Hureira  and  bridge  at 
Yebna  ;  p.  314,  Nablus  ;  383  ff.  for  great  mosque 
(partly  a  converted  church)  at  Gaza,  and  470, 
for  further  reference  to  bridge  at  Ludd. 

.      Le      tombeau     de     Dja'far, 

cousin-germain  de  Mahomet.  Rfcueil 
d'  Archeologie  orientale,  tome  iii,  pp. 
278-283,  with  2  figures   (of  inscriptions). 

1899. 

References  to  a  mosque,  restored  A.H.  752 
{1351),  and  to  a  mausoleum,  the  latter  dated 
A.H.  727  (1327)  erroneously  attributed  by  the 
Arabs  to  Ja'far. 

— .     El-Kahf    et    la    Caverne    des 

Sept-Dormants.       Recueil      d"  Archeologie 

orientale,     tome    iii,     pp.     293-303,     and 

plates  ix  and  x.  1899. 

With  notes  on  the  ruined  mosque  (J  mile  S.E. 
of  'Amman)  and  plan  of  same. 

.     Une     inscription     du     calife 

Hicham  (an  no  de  I'hegire).  Recueil 
d" Archeologie  orientale,  tome  iii,  pp.  285- 
293,  with  I  figure  and  plates  vii,  A  (facsi- 
mile) and  viii.  1900. 

Kufic  dating  inscription  of  a  monument, 
apparently  a  fortified  khan,  built  by  the  in- 
habitants of  Homs,  A.H.  no  (728). 

.     The  Moslem  Mukams.     Pales- 


tine Exploration  Fund,  Q.  St.,  pp.  89-103. 

J877. 

Reprinted  in  the  Survey  of  Western  Palestine, 
Special  Papers,  pp.  258-273.  1881. 


Conder,  Lt.  Claude  R.,  R.E.  Notes  on 
Architecture  in  Palestine.  Palestine  Ex- 
ploration Fund,  0.  St.,  pp.  29-40.        1878. 

At  all  periods. 

Conder,  C.  R.  Report  on  the  Visit  of 
their  Royal  Highnesses  Princes  Albert, 
Victor  and  George  of  Wales  to  the  Hebron 
Haram,  on  5th  April,  1882.  Palestine 
Exploration  Ftind,  Q.  St.,  pp.  197-213, 
with  3  figures.  1882. 

Conder,  Major  C.  R.  The  Survey  of 
Eastern  Palestine.  Memoirs  of  the  Topo- 
graphy, Orography,  Hydrography,  Ar- 
chaeology, etc.  Vol.  i.  The  'Adwan 
Country.  [All  published.]  4to,  pp.  xii 
and  305,  with  15  plates  and  many  illus- 
trations. 

Palestine  Exploration  Fund,  London, 

1889. 

See  pp.  57-59  for  mosque  at  'Amman,  and  pp. 
216-217,  for  fort  with  Arabic  inscription  dated 
1191  (1777). 

Conder,  Lieut.  C.  R.,  and  Lieut.  H.  H. 

Kitchener.  The  Survey  of  Western 
Palestine,  Memoirs  of  the  Topography, 
Orography,  Hydrography,  and  Archaeo- 
logy. Edited  with  additions  by  E.  H. 
Palmer  and  Walter  Besant.  4to,  3  vols., 
pp.  X  and  420,  with  30  plates  and  many 
illustrations  ;  pp.  vii  and  445,  with  21 
plates  and  many  illustrations  ;  pp.  vii 
and  450,  with  21  plates  and  many  illus- 
trations. 

Palestine  Exploration  Fund,  London, 

1881-1883. 

For  Moslem  work,  see  vol.  i,  Galilee,  pp.  72-81, 
iio-iii,  116,  123,  123-125,  125,  125-128,  128- 
133,  133-135,  160-167,  185-186,  186-190,  191, 
206-207,  207-208,  226,  234,  248-250,  256,  272, 
335-338.  394-396,  409-411,  and  418-420. 

Vol.  ii :  Samaria,  pp.  105,  116,  119-121,  185, 
195,  203-210,  264,  264-265,  266-267  (?),  269-275, 
332,  368-369,  421,  422  and  441-443. 

Vol.  iii :  Judaea,  pp.  8,  16,  25,  54-55,  91,  129- 
130,  149-152,  157-158,  163,  207,  220,  234-235, 
236,  248-250,  252-253,  270,  303-304,  305-307, 
320,  327-328,  333-346,  374  and  449-450. 

Contenau,    Dr.    G.      Mission    archeolo- 

gique  a  Sidon  (1914).     Syria,  tome  i,  pp. 

16-55;  108-154;  198-229; 287-317.     1920. 

See  pp.  1 08-11 8,  planche  x,  and  figs.  20-26, 
for  researches  at  the  Castle  of  Sidon. 

75 


MOSLEM   ARCHITECTURE   IN   PALESTINE 


Cowper,  H.  Swainson.  Through 
Turkish  Arabia.  A  journey  from  the 
Mediterranean  to  Bombay  by  the  Eu- 
phrates and  Tigris  Valleys  and  the 
Persian  Gulf.     8vo,  pp.  xx  and  490. 

Allen,  London,  1894. 

See  chap,  iv,  pp.  68-114  for  a  good  account 
of  Aleppo  ;  also  illustrations  on  pp.  229  and  243. 

Grace,  John  D.  On  the  Ornamental 
Features  of  Arabic  Architecture  in  Egypt 
and  Syria.  Sessional  Papers  of  the  Roy. 
Inst,  of  Brit.  Architects,  vol.  xx,  pp.  71-90, 
with  3  plates.  1870. 

Creswell,  K.  A.  C.  The  Origin  of  the 
Cruciform  Plan  of  Cairene  Madrasas. 
Bull,  de  rinst.  francais  d'archeologie 
orientale,  tome  xxi,  pp.  1-54,  with  12 
plates  and  10  plans.  1922. 

Contains  plans,  photographs  and  descriptions 
of  eight  early  madrasas  in  Aleppo,  Ma'anat  an- 
Nu'man  and  Damascus. 

.     Two  Khans  at  Khan  Tuman. 

Syria,  tome  iv,  pp.  1 34-139,  and  PI. 
xxxvi-xxxviii.  1923. 

Daly,   C^sar.     Incrustations  de  marbre 

et    faience    (XV*    s.)    a    Damas.     Revue 

generale   de  l^ Architecture  et   des   Travaux 

•publics,  tome  xliii,  col.  5,  with  i  coloured 

plate.  1886. 

A  fine  piece  of  marble  inlay  from  the  Mosque 
Qal'at  al-UUah,  at  Damascus. 

Dickie,     Archibald      Campbell.      The 

Great  Mosque  of  the  Omeiyades,  Damas- 
cus. Report.  Palestine  Exploration  Fund, 
Q.  St.,  pp.  268-282,  with  5  folding  plates 
and  I  figure.  1897. 

Diez,  Dr.  Ernst.  Die  Kunst  der  is- 
lamischen  Volker.     Sm.  4to. 

Akademische  Verlagsgesellschaft 
Athenaion,  Berlin-Neubabels- 
berg,  [1915]. 

See  pp.  12-33,  Tafel  I,  and  Abb.  6-36  ;  pp. 
37-38,  65,  and  Abb.  81,  84-86  and  88. 

76 


Drake,  C.  F.  Tyrwhitt.  [Homs  and 
Hama.]  Palestine  Exploration  Fund,  Q. 
St.,  pp.  7-1 1.  1872. 

Reprinted  in  the  Survey  0/  Western  Palestine, 
Special  Papers,  pp.  119-122  (1881). 

Reports — XVI.        Palestine 


Exploration    Fufid,    Q.    St.,    pp.    64-76. 

1874. 

See  pp.  64-67  for  notes  on  the  Citadel  and 
Qubbat  as-Sakhra  at  Jerusalem,  and  the  White 
Mosque  at  Ramleh. 

Dussaud,   Ben^,  and  Fr^^ric  Macler. 

Rapport  sur  une  mission  scientifique  dans 

les  regions  desertiques  de  la  Syrie  moyenne. 

Nouvelles  Archives  des  Missions   Scienti- 

fiques,  tome  x,  pp.  411-744,  with  many 

plates  and  figures.  1902. 

Dating  inscriptions  on  buildings  at  el-'Ayin, 
Salkhad,  and  Qal'at  Azraq. 

.     Le  Temple  de  Jupiter  Damas- 

cenien  et  ses  transformations  aux  epoques 
chretienne  et  musulmane.  Syria,  tome 
iii,  pp.  219-250,  planches  li-liv  and  figs. 
1-6.  1922. 

Fago,     Vincenzo.        Arte    araba.     I — 

L'Arte    araba    nella    Siria    e    in    Egitto. 

4to,  pp.  198  and  Ixxv,  with  50  plates  (fine 

photogravures). 

Roma,  1909. 

Chiefly  devoted  to  Egypt.  See,  however, 
plates  i-iii. 

Fergusson,     James.      A     History     of 

Architecture.     8vo,  2  vols. 

Murray,  London,  1893. 

See  pp.  516-525,  with  7  illustrations.  Also 
p.  407  and  figs.  270-271  for  Mshatta. 

Fulleylove,  John,  B.I.,  and  John  Eel- 
man.  The  Holy  Land.  Painted  by  John 
Fulleylove.  Described  by  John  Kelman. 
4to,  pp.  XV  and  301,  with  92  coloured 
plates. 

Adam   and   Charles   Black,    London, 
1902. 

See  chap,  iv,  Moslem,  pp.  157-179  and  plates 
49-  54  and  56-64. 


MOSLEM   ARCHITECTURE  IN   PALESTINE 


Germer-Durand.  Rapport  sur  I'ex- 
ploration  archeologique  en  1903  de  la  voie 
romaine  entre  Amman  et  Bostra  (Arabic). 
Bulletin  archeologique,  pp.  1-43,  with  6 
plates.  1904- 

Plate  vi:  "  Dera'a  (Syrie),  interieur  de  la 
mosquee." 

Gildemeister,  Prof.  J.  Arabische  In- 
schrift  vom  Nahr  Banijas.  Zeitschr.  d. 
Deutschen  Palaestina-Vereins,  Band  x, 
pp.  188-189.  1887. 

On  an  inscription  copied  by  Dr.  Fritz  Noetling 
recording  the  construction  of  a  military  work. 

See  Clermont-Ganneau  :  Inscription  arabe  de 
Banias. 

Girault  de  Prangey.  Monuments 
arabes  d'Egypte,  de  Syrie  et  d'Asie 
Mineure,  dessines  et  mesures  de  1842  a 
1845.  Ouvrage  faisant  suite  aux  Monu- 
ments arabes  de  Cordoue,  Seville  et 
Grenade,  publics  de  1836  a  1839.  Livr. 
1-6.  Folio,  with  24  tinted  plates,  and 
16  pages  of  description. 

Publics  par  I'auteur,  Paris,  1846. 
See  plates  i,  8,  12,  14,  15  and  24. 

Gliick,  Heiniich.  Ein  islamisches  Hei- 
ligtum  auf  den  Olberg.  Ein  Beitrag  zur 
Geschichte  des  islamischen  Raumbaues. 
Der  Islam,  Band  vi,  pp.  328-349,  with  15 
illustrations.  1916. 

Goldziher,  Dr,  Ign.  Das  Patriarchen- 
grab  in  Hebron  nach  Al-'Abdarl.  Zeitschr. 
d.  Deutschen  Palaestina-V  ereins.  Band 
xvii,  pp.  1 15-122,  with  I  double  plate 
(interior).  1894. 

See  also  Guthe  (H.),  Stumme  (H.),  Vincent 
(H.)  and  Le  Strange,  Palestine  under  the  Moslems, 
pp.  309-327. 

Grimaldi,  Rev.  A.  B.  Cenotaphs  of  the 
Hebrew  Patriarchs  at  the  Cave  of  Mach- 
pelah.  Palestine  Exploration  Fund,  Q.  St., 
pp.  145-150,  with  6  plates.  1912. 

Includes  views  of  the  interior  of  the  Haram 
at  Hebron,  from  the  North  British-Israel  Review, 
January.  191 1. 

Gurlitt,      Cornelius.      Geschichte      der 

Kunst.     Large  8vo,  2  vols. 

Bergstrasser,  Stuttgart,  1902. 

Syrien  und  Africa  unter  arabischer  Herrschaft, 
Band  i,  pp.  381-386 ;  Das  Heilige  Land,  pp.  477- 
479- 


Guthe,  Prof.  H.  Die  Untersuchung 
des  Patriarchengrabes  in  Habron  im 
Jahre  11 19.  Zeitschr.  d.  Deutschen  Palae- 
stina-Vereins, Band  xvii,  pp.  238-248, 
with  I  double  plate  (interior).  1894. 

(See  also  Goldziher  (I.),  Stumme  (H.)  and 

Vincent  (H.) 

Hammer-Purgstall.  tJber  Hrn.  v. 
Kremer's  Topographic  von  Damaskus. 
Situngsber.  der  philos.-hist.  classe  der  K. 
Akademie  der  Wissenschaften,  Band  xiii, 

483-494- 

Wien,  1854. 

Hanauer,  J.  E.  Right  of  Sanctuary  at 
Damascus.  Palestine  Exploration  Fund, 
Q.  St.,  p.  207.  1913. 

Instance  of  the  ancient  right  of  Sanctuary 
connected  with  the  Great  Umayyad  Mosque, 
October  1912.     See  also  ibid.,  1912,  pp.  206-209. 

Hartmann,  Martin.  Die  arabischen  In- 
schriftcn  in  Salamja.  Zeitschr.  d.  Deut- 
schen Palaestina-Vereins,  Band  xxiv,  pp. 
49-68,  with  7  illustrations  (facsimiles). 

1901. 

Hartmann,  R,      Damascus.     Article  in 

the  Encyclopaedia  of  Islam,  vol.  i,  pp.  902- 

910.  1912. 

With  notes  on  the  great  Umayyad  Mosque 
and  other  buildings. 

Harvey,  William. — Saracenic  Vaulting. 
Architectural  Review,  vol.  xxx,  pp.  241-245, 
with  6  illustrations.  191 1. 

Three  Syrian  examples  illustrated. 

.      Some     Saracenic     Doorways. 

Architectural  Review,  vol.  xxxii,  pp.  255-260, 
with  5  illustrations.  1912. 

Two  Syrian  examples  illustrated. 

Herzfeld,  Ernst.  Mshatta,  Hira  und 
Badiya,  die  Mittellander  des  Islam  und 
ihre  Baukunst.  Jahrbuch  der  Preuszischen 
Kunstsammlungen,  192 1,  pp.  104-146, 
with  10  plates  and  17  illustrations.     1921. 

Hornstein,  Charles  Alexander.  A  Visit 
to  Kerak  and  Petra.     Palestine  Explora- 

77 


MOSLEM   ARCHITECTURE   IN   PALESTINE 


Hon  Fund,  Q.  St.,  pp.  94-103,  with   17 
plates  and  3  figures.  1898. 

Jalabert,  L.    Damas.    Article  in  Cabrol 

and  Le  Qercq's  Dictionnaire  d'arche'ologie 

chretienne,  iv,  cds.  1 19-145.  1920. 

See  cols.  135-145  for  the  Great  Mosque  at 
Damascus. 

Janssen,  J.-A.  Trois  inscriptions  arabes 
inedites,  du  Haram  d'Hebron.  Revue 
biblique,  tome  xxxii,  "  Melanges,"  pp.  80- 
92,  with  2  plates  (facsimiles).  1923. 

On  three  inscriptions,  relating  to  the  endow- 
ments, not  published  in  the  work  of  Vincent  and 
Mackay  [q.v.]. 

Inscription    arabe    du    Khan 


al-Ahmar  a  Beisan  (Palestine).  Bulletin 
de  I'Institut  francais  d'Archeologie  ori- 
entale,  tome  xxii,  pp.  99-103,  with  I 
figure  (facsimile  of  inscription).  1923. 

Built  by  the  Emir  Salar  in  Gumada  708  (in 
November  1308). 

Kahle,  Paul.  Die  moslemischen  Heilig- 
tiimer  in  Palastina.  Paldstinajahrbuch, 
Jahrg.  vi,  pp.  63-101,  with  6  illustrations. 

1910. 

.     Das  Wesen  der  moslemischen 

Heiligtiimer  in  Palastina.  Paldstinajahr- 
buch, Jahrg.  vii,  pp.  85-119,  with  8  illus- 
trations. 191 1. 

Kay,  Henry  Cassels.  A  Seljukite  In- 
scription at  Damascus.  Journ.  Roy. 
Asiatic  Society,  pp.  335-345-  ^^97- 

On  an  inscription  in  the  Great  Mosque  at 
Damascus,  which  records  a  restoration  of  the 
maqsiira,  etc.,  in  a.h.  475  (1082). 

"  Squeeze  "  from  the  mosque 


of  Scheikh  Murad,  near  Jaffa.  Palestine 
Exploration  Fund,  Quarterly  Statement, 
p.  247.  1898. 

Recording  its  restoration  by  Amir  Jamal  ad- 
Din. 

Kiemer,  A.  von.  Ausziige  aus  Ibn-osch- 

Schihne's    Geschichte    von    Haleb.     Sit- 

zungsher.    der    philos.-hist.   Classe    der    k. 

Akademie   der   Wissenschaften,    Band   iv, 

pp.  215-250.  1850. 

Contains  considerable  architectural  and  topo- 
graphical information. 

78 


Elremer,  A.  von.  Die  Medreseen  von 
Haleb.  Sitzungsber.  der  philos.-hist.  Classe 
der  k.  Akademie  der  Wissenschaften,  Band 
iv,  pp.  304-309-  1850. 

A  list  with  notes. 

Topographie    von    Damascus. 


Denkschriften  der  k.  Akadeinie  der  Wissen- 
schaften, philos.-hist.  Classe,  Band  v,  Abt. 
2,  pp.  1-5,  with  3  plates  and  3  figures  ; 
Band  vi,  Abt.  2,  pp.  1-37,  with  i  plate 
and  I  figure.  1854-1855. 

See  Hammer-Purgstall. 

Laborde,  Leon  de.  Voyage  en  Orient. 
Pres  de  400  vues  de  sites  historiques  de 
I'Asie  Mineure  et  de  la  Syrie,  dessinees 
d'apres  nature  par  I'auteur,  accompagnees 
d'un  Texte  explicatif.  Vol.  ii.  Voyage  de 
la  Syrie.     Folio. 

Firmin  Didot,  Paris,  1838. 

See  plate  xv,  Tripoli ;  xxvii,  Beyrut,  old 
fortifications ;  xxxvii,  Bteddin,  Palace  of  the 
Emir  Beshir  ;  xliv,  Damascus  ;  Ivii  and  Iviii, 
Bosra,  Citadel  and  walls  ;  Ixii  and  Ixiii,  Tiberias, 
before  and  after  the  earthquake  of  1837  (in  the 
first  completely  walled),  and  Ixxxvii,  Sidon,  fine 
doonvay. 

Lallemand,  Ch.  D'Algei  a  Constan- 
tinople. Jerusalem-Damas.  4.to,  pp.  134, 
with  22  plates  (i  coloured)  and  74  Ulustra- 
tions. 

Quantin,    Paris :      Gervais-CourteUe- 
mont,  Alger,  [1894]. 

Collection  Courlellemoni  ariisiique  etpittoresquc. 
Illustrations  directes  d'apres  nature. 

Lammens,  H.  La  Syrie :  Precis  his- 
torique.     Sm.  8vo,  2  vols.,  pp.  ix  and  279, 

277- 

Imprimerie     Catholique,     Beyrouth, 
1921. 

See  pp.  87-88  for  the  Great  Mosque  at 
Damascus,  and  pp.  96-98  for  a  discussion  of  the 
problem  of  Mshatt4,  which  the  author  attributes 
to  VValid  II  (743-744). 

Le  Strange,  Guy.  Palestine  under  the 
Moslems.  A  Description  of  Syria  and  the 
Holy  Land  from  a.d.  650  to  1500.  Trans- 
lated from  the  works  of  the  mediaeval 
Arab    geographers.     8vo,    pp.    xxiii    and 


MOSLEM   ARCHITECTURE   IN   PALESTINE 


604,  with  17  plans  and  illustrations  and  2 
maps. 

Alexander  Watt,   for  The   Palestine 
Exploration  Fund,  London,  1890. 

Le  Strange,  Guy.  Description  of  Syria, 
including  Palestine,  by  Mukaddasi  (circ. 
985  A.D.).  Translated  from  the  Arabic 
and  annotated.  8vo,  pp.  xvi  and  116, 
with  2  maps  and  4  plans  (including  one 
of  the  Haram-esh-Sherif). 

London,  1892. 
Palestine  Pilgrims'  Text  Society,  vol.  iii. 

Littman.  Aibeg  (Arab.  pron.  Aibak), 
properly  called  'Izz  al-Din  Abu'l-Mansur 
Aibeg  al-Mu'azzami.  Article  in  the  En- 
cyclopedia of  Islam,  vol.  i,  pp.  208-209. 

1909. 

Governor  of  Damascus.  Gives  a  list  of  his 
buildings  at  Salkhad  (Hauran)  and  elsewhere. 
Died  A.H.  646  (1248/9). 

de  Lorey,  Eustache,  and  Gaston  Wiet. 

Cenotaphes  de  deux  dames  musulmanes 
a  Damas.  Syria,  ii,  pp.  221-225  and 
Planche  xxvii.  192 1. 

Lukach,  Harry  Charles.    The  Fringe  of 

the  East.     A  journey  through  past  and 

present   provinces  of  Turkey.      8vo,   pp. 

xiii  and  273,  with  map  and  76  illustrations. 

MacmLllan,  London,  191 3. 

Contains  several  new  architectural  photo- 
graphs, e.g.  Great  Mosque  of  Hama  ;  Great 
Mosque  at  Damascus,  as  restored  since  the 
fire,  etc. 

Luke,  Harry  Charles,  and  Edward 
Keith-Roach.  The  Handbook  of  Pales- 
tine. With  an  Introduction  by  the  Right 
Hon.  Sir  Herbert  Samuel,  P.C,  G.B.E. 
Issued  under  the  authority  of  the  Govern- 
ment of  Palestine.  Sm.  8vo,  pp.  xii  and 
295,  with  frontispiece  and  folding  map. 
MacmLllan,  London,  1922. 

See  Moslem  Architecture  in  Palestine  (by 
E.  T.  Richmond),  pp.  67-74  ;  also  the  Pro- 
Jerusalem  Society,  pp.  131-132. 

Luynes,  Due  de.  Voyage  d'exploration 
a  la  Mer  Morte,  a  Petra  et  sur  la  rive 
gauche   du    Jourdain.     CEuvre  posthume 


publiee  par  ses  petits-fils  sous  la  direction 
de  M.  le  comte  de  Vogiie.  Impl.  4to, 
text :  3  vols.,  pp.  iii  and  388  ;  227 ;  vi 
and  326  ;  plates  :  97,  with  2  folding  maps. 
Bertrand,  Paris,  [1871-1876]. 

Mosquee  dite  d'Omar — Qoubbet-es-Sakhrah, 
tome  i,  Appendice,  pp.  335-34°- 

Also  dating  inscriptions  on  mosques,  etc.,  at  Et- 
Borak,  Hebron,  Karak,  Mo'teh,  Qal'at  al-Hesa, 
Shaubak  and  Ramleh,  tome  ii,  pp.  183-222. 

Mar9ais,  Georges.  La  Mosquee  d'EI- 
Walid  a  Damas  et  son  influence  sur 
I'Architecture  musulmane  d'Occident. 
Revue  Ajricaine,  L°  annee,  pp.  37-56, 
with  2  figures.  1906. 

Margoliouth,  Rev.  D.  S.,  D.Litt.     Cairo, 

Jerusalem     &     Damascus  :     three     chief 

cities    of    the    Egyptian    Sultans.     With 

illustrations  in  colour  by  W.  S.  S.Tyrwhitt, 

R.B.A.,  and  additional  plates  by  Reginald 

Barratt,  A.R.W.S.     4to,  pp.  xvi  and  301, 

with  5 7 coloured  plates  and  3  line  drawings. 

Chatto  &  Windus,  London,  1907. 

Moslem  architecture  at  Jerusalem,  pp.  203- 
225  ;   at  Damascus,  pp.  228-248. 

Masterman,    Ernest    W.    Gurney.     A 

Greek  Inscription  from  the  Grand  Mosque, 
Damascus.  Palestine  Exploration  Fund, 
Q.  St.,  pp.  224-5,  with  facsimile.  1896. 

Note  by  Dr.  Murray,  ibid.,  pp.  225-226. 

Mayer,  L.  A.  Arabic  Inscriptions  of 
Gaza.  Journal  of  the  Palestine  Oriental 
Society,  vol.  iii,  pp.  69-78,  with  3  plates 
and  I  figure.  1923. 

du  Mesnil  du  Buisson.  Les  anciennes 
defenses  de  Beyrouth.  Syria,  tome  ii, 
pp.  235-257,  planches  xxxv-xl  and  figs. 
1-8;  pp.  317-327,  planches  xlvi-liii  and 
figs.  9-1 1.  1921. 

Migeon,  Gaston.  Hama,  de  Syrie. 
Syria,  tome  ii,  pp.  1-5,  and  planches  i-ii. 

1921. 

Much,  Hans.  Islamik.  Westlicher 
Teil  bis  zur  persischen  Grenze.  8vo,  pp. 
16,  with  98  illustrations. 

Friederichsen,  Hamburg,  192 1. 

See  Abb.  10,  ii>,  14,  21  (Aleppo),  27'>,  50,  51'', 
54,  55,  58-61,  63,  66>>,  670  and  79. 

79 


MOSLEM   ARCHITECTURE   IN   PALESTINE 


Mxiir,    Sir    Wm.     Destruction    of    the 
Great  Mosque  of  Damascus.     The  Archi- 
tect, vo\.\\, -p.  SS-  1^94- 
Reprint  of  a  letter  to  the  Scotsman. 

Miilinen,  Dr.  E.  Graf  von.  Das  Grab 
Abu'l-Fida's  in  Hama.  Zeitschr.  d.  Deut- 
schen  morgenldndischen  Gesellschajt,  Band 
Ixii,  pp.  657-660,  with  4  illustrations  on 

2  plates.  1908. 

See  Seybold. 

Musil,     Alois.     Arabia     Petraea.     8vo, 

3  parts  :  I — Moab,  topographischer  Reise- 
bericht,  mit  i  Tafel  und  190  Abbildungen 
im  Texte,  pp.  xxiii  and  443  ;  II — Edom, 
topographischer  Reisebericht.  I.  Teil,  mit 
1  Umgebungskarte  von  vvadi  Musa  (Petra) 
und  170  Abbildungen  im  Texte,  pp.  xii 
and  343  ;  2.  TeU,  mit  i  Ubersichtskarte 
des  Dreiecknetzes  und  152  Abbildungen  im 
Texte,  pp.  X  and  300  ;  III — Ethnologischer 
Reisebericht,  mit  62  Abbildungen  im 
Texte,  pp.  xvi  and  550. 

Holder,  Wien,  1907-1908. 

Kusejr  '.^mra,  Band  i,  pp.  219-233,  illus. 
96-105  ;  pp.  276-289,  illus.  1 18-124  ;  Kasr  al- 
Harani,  pp.  290-293,  illus.  129-135  ;  Mashita, 
pp.  196-203,  illus.  83-92. 

Nasir-i-Ehusrau.  Sefer  Nameh.  Rela- 
tion du  voyage  de  Nassiri  Khosrau  en 
Syrie,  en  Palestine,  en  Egypte,  en  Arabic 
et  en  Perse,  pendant  les  annees  de  I'hegire 
437-444  (1035-1042).  Public,  traduite  et 
annote  par  Charles  Schefcr.  Large  8vo, 
pp.  Iviii,  348  and  97  (Persian  text),  with  4 
coloured  plates. 

Leroux,  Paris,  1881. 

Publications  de  I'Scole  des  langues  orientates 
tiivantes,  ii«  serie,  vol.  i. 

See  pp.  31-105,  for  Aleppo,  Ma'arrat  an- 
Nu'man,  Tripoli,  Jebeil,  Sidon,  Akka,  Tiberias, 
CcBsarea,  Ramleh,  Jerusalem  (most  important 
account  of  the  Haram  .\rea)  and  Hebron. 

Oppenheim,  Dr.  Max  von.  Vom  Mittel- 
mecr  zum  Persischcn  Golf  durch  den 
Hauran,  die  syrische  Wiiste  und  Mesopo- 
tamien.  Mit  vier  Originalkarten  von 
Dr.   Richard   Kiepert,   einer  Uebersichts- 

80 


karte  und  zahlreichcn  Abbildungen.     8vo, 
2  vols.,  pp.  XV  and  334  ;    xv  and  434. 

Reimer,  Berlin,  1 899-1 900. 

Bteddin,  Band  i,  pp.  27-30,  with  1  plate  and 
2  illustrations  ;  Damascus,  pp.  48-77,  well  illus- 
trated ;  Bosra,  two  mosques,  pp.  19S-199,  with 
plate  ;  Salkhad,  castle  and  minaret  dated  a.h. 
603  (1206/7),  PP'  203-207,  with  2  illustrations. 

Pierotti,  Dr.  Ermete.  On  Jewish  and 
Roman  Architecture  in  Palestine  from  the 
earliest  period  to  the  time  of  the  Crusades. 
Papers  read  at  the  Roy.  Inst,  of  Brit. 
Architects,  vol.  xii,  pp.  149-164.  1862. 

"  Epoch  of  the  .•Vrabs,"  pp.  161-162. 

Porter,  Rev.  J.  L.  Five  Years  in 
Damascus  :  including  an  account  of  the 
history,  topography,  and  antiquities  of 
that  city  ;  with  travels  and  researches  in 
Palmyra,  Lebanon,  and  the  Hauran.  Sm. 
8vo,  2  vols.,  pp.  xi  and  395,  with  8  plates 
and  8  illustrations  ;  pp.  vii  and  372,  with 
2  plates,  a  map  and  12  illustrations. 

Murray,  London,  1855. 

.      Second  edition,   revised.    Sm. 


8vo,  pp.  xvi  and  339,  with  i  plate,  map 
and  18  illustrations. 

Murray,  London,  1870. 

Portfolio  of  Saracenic  Art.  4to,  4 
parts,  8  coloured  plates,  no  text. 

London,  [1887-1890]. 

Part  2,  plate  t  :  "  Panel  of  tiles.  From  the 
Senariyeh  f?  Sinaniyya]  Mosque  at  Damascus, 
about  1580." 

Puchstein,  Dr.  0.  Guide  de  Ba'albck. 
Traduit  de  I'allemand.  Sm.  8vo,  pp.  42, 
with  12  figures.  Reimer,  Berlin,  1906. 

Reinach,  A.  J.  Les  mosaiques  de  la 
mosquee  des  Omayades  a  Damas.  Revue 
Archeologique,  iv'  serie,  tome  xvii,  pp. 
453-454.  191 1. 

Reitemeyer,  Dr.  Else.  Die  Stadte- 
griindungen  dcr  Araber  im  Islam,  nach  den 
arabischen  Historikern  und  Geographcn. 
8vo,  pp.  iv  and  170. 

Harrassowitz,  Leipzig,  191 2. 

See  pp.  69-75,  for  Ramla,  Rusafa,  etc. 


MOSLEM   ARCHITECTURE   IN   PALESTINE 


Rey,  E.  Guillaume.  Voyage  dans  le 
Haouran  et  aux  bords  de  la  Mer  Morte, 
execute  pendant  les  annees  1857  et  1858. 
Text :  8vo,  pp.  XX  and  306;  plates  :  atlas 
folio,  pp.  [i]  with  25  plates  (i  double). 

Bertrand,  Paris,  [i860?]. 

Bosra  :  Mosque  Dar-al-Moslim,  Mosque  of  al- 
Mebrak,  and  Mosque  of  Omar-al-Kitab,  pp.  179- 
183.  View  and  plan  of  latter,  plate  xvi,  frieze, 
plate  xvii. 


.     Rapport     sur     une     mission 

scientifique  accomplie  en  1 864-1 865  dans 

le  nord  de  la  Syrie.     Archives  des  missions, 

2°"  serie,   tome   iii,   pp.    329-373,   with  9 

plates.  1866. 

Salamiyya,  p.  245  (mosque  with  Kufic  in- 
scriptions) ;  Shouraaimis,  pp.  345-346 ;  and 
Mambij,  p.  352  (square  minaret  built,  according 
to  an  inscription,  by  Saladin  insji-FsSi^  a.d. 
1183). 

Riant,  Comte.  Note  explicative  d'un 
plan  de  la  mosquee  d'Hebron.  Comptes 
rendus  de  I'Academie  des  Inscriptions  et 
Belles-Lettres,  pp.  54-63,  with  i  double 
plate  (plan).  1886. 

Rivoira,  G.  T.  Architettura  Musul- 
mana,  sue  origini  e  sue  sviluppo.  4to,  pp. 
ix  and  391,  with  341  illustrations. 

Hoepli,  Milan,  19 14. 

.       Moslem      Architecture,      its 


origins  and  development.  Translated 
from  the  Italian  by  G.  McN.  Rushforth. 
4to,  pp.  xvii  and  383,  with  341  illustra- 
tions. 

Milford,  Oxford,  1918. 

See  Dome  of  the  Rock,  and  Mosque  of  al- 
Aqsa,  pp.  45-72  and  11-23,  and  Great  Mosque 
at  i)amascus,  pp.  72-137. 

Russell,  Alex.  The  Natural  History  of 
Aleppo,  and  parts  adjacent.  Containing 
a  description  of  the  city,  and  the  principal 
natural  productions  in  its  neighbourhood  ; 
.  .  .  4to,  pp.  viii  and  276,  with  15  plates. 
Millar,  London,  1756. 

■ ■ — .     The  second  edition.    Revised, 


enlarged,     and     illustrated    with     notes. 
By     Pat.    Russell,    M.D.,     F.R.S.     4to, 

N 


2  vols.,  pp.  xxiv,  446  and  xxv,  with  5 
plates  ;  pp.  vii,  430,  xxxiv  and  26,  with 
15  plates. 

Robinson,  London,  1794. 

Sachau,  Dr.  Eduard.  Reise  in  Syrien 
und  Mesopotamien.  Mit  2  Karten  von 
Professor  Heinrich  Kiepert,  18  Abbildun- 
gen  und  22  Llchtdruckbildern.  8vo,  pp. 
X  and  479.  Brockhaus,  Leipzig,  1883. 

Homs,  pp.  62-64  and  plate  viii  ;  Qal'at  Sejar, 
pp.  68-69  and  plate  x  ;  Mambij,  pp.  146-152  ; 
Qal'at  an-Negm,  pp.  153-155  ;  and  Aleppo, 
pp.  458-459  and  plates  xx-xxii. 

Sachsen,   Jobann    Georg,   Heizog   zu. 

Tagebuchblatter  aus  Nordsyrien.     Mit  85 

Abbildungen.     8vo,  pp.  viii  and  71. 

Teubner,  Leipzig,  1921. 

Review  :  Hugo  Grothe,  Orientalisches  Archiv, 
Jahrg.  iii,  pp.  146-147. 

For  Homs,  HamS  and  Al«ppo. 

Saladin,  H.  Manuel  d'art  musulman. 
I — L' Architecture.     8vo. 

Picard,  Paris,  1907. 

Chap,  ii  :  "  Ecole  syro-egyptienne  (Egypte, 
Syria,  Arabic),"  pp.  45-i'84,with  108  illustrations. 

Salhab,  Dr.  T.  La  fabrication  des 
briques  en  Orient.  Al-Machriq,  pp.  747- 
749.     [In  Arabic.].  1910. 

Sarre,  Friedrich,  and  Ernst  Herzfeld. 

Archaologische  Reise  im  Euphrat  und 
Tigris  -  Gebiet.  Mit  einem  Beitrage  : 
Arabische  Inschriften  von  Max  van 
Berchem.  Sm.  folio,  4  vols.,  pp.  x 
and  252,  with  2  maps  and  132  illustra- 
tions ;  pp.  xii  and  395,  with  2  maps  and 
245  illustrations  ;  pp.  xi,  with  120  plates  ; 
pp.  vii  and  59,  with  28  plates. 

Reimer,  Berlin,  1911-1920. 

ForsckuHgen  der  Islamischen  Kunst,  i. 

See  i,  pp.  1-3,  for  dating  inscriptions  at 
Balis,  by  M.  van  Berchem,  pp.  1 10-172,  for 
itinerary  from  Aleppo  to  Deir  az-Z6r,  by  E. 
Herifeld  ;  and  iii,  Tafeln  i  and  xxiv. 

Sauvaire,  Henry.  Histoire  de  Jerusalem 
et  d'Hebron,  depuis  Abraham  jusqu'a  la 
fin  du  xv'  siecle  de   J.-C.     Fragments  de 

81 


MOSLEM    ARCHITECTURE   IN   PALESTINE 


la  Chroniqtie  de   Moudjir-ed-dyn  traduits 

sur  le  texte  arabe.     8vo,  pp.  [iv]  and  346. 

Leroux,  Paris,  1876. 

Architecture  and  topography  of  Jerusalem 
and  Hebron  in  the  fifteenth  century,  with  the 
dates  of  many  monuments. 

Sauvaire,Henry.  Description  de  Damas. 
Traductions  de  I'arabe.  Journal  Asiatiqtie, 
ix"  serie,  tome  iii,  pp.  251-318,  385-501  ; 
iv,  pp.  242-331,  460-503;  V,  pp.  269- 
3iS>  377-411;  vi,  pp.  221-303,  409- 
484;    vii,  pp.    185-285,  369-453- 

1 894-1 896. 

.     Do.     Extrait     du    Journal 

Asiatique.  8vo,  2  parts,  pp.  318  and  441. 
Imprimerie  Nationale,  Paris,  1895-6. 

Schick,  Dr.  Conrad.  Letters,  II — 
Arabic  Building  Terms.  Palestine  Ex- 
ploration Fund,  0.  St.,  pp.  194-201,  with 
9  small  figures.  1893. 

Includes  stone-cutters'  and  masons'  tools, 
which  the  figures  illustrate. 

Schumacher,  Dr.  G.     Unsere   Arbeiten 

im  Ostjordanlande.      VII.     Zeitschr.    des 

Deutschen  Paldstina-Vereins,  Band  xxxviii, 

pp.  136-149,  and  plates  vi-xviii.  191S- 

See  p.  140  and  plates  viii-x  for  Mosque  of  al- 
Khidr  and  Great  Mosque,  and  pp.  146-147  and 
plates  xvi-xvii  for  Great  Mosque  at  Ezra. 

Sepp,  Dr.  Jerusalem  und  das  heilige 
Land.  Pilgerbuch  nach  Palastina,  Syrien 
und  Aegypten.  8vo,  2  vols.,  pp.  xxxviii 
and  781,  with  I  plate  and  232  woodcuts  ; 
pp.  xxviii  and  866,  with  i  plate  and  174 
woodcuts. 

Hurler,  Schaffhausen,i863. 

.     Do.     Zweite,  durch  architek- 

tonische  und  diplomatische  Studien  ver- 
mehrte  Auflage,  mit  550  Illustratione  und 
einer  selbstaendigen  Karte  von  Palaestina. 
8vo,  2  vols.,  XXXV  and  923  ;  xii  and  916. 
Hurter,  Schaffhauser  (Bd.  ii-Manz, 
Regensburg),   1 873-1 876. 

Seybold,  C.  F.  Zum  Grab  Abu'lfida's  in 
Hama.     Zeitschr.    d.    Deutschen    morgen- 

82 


Idndischen  Gesellschaft,  Band  Ixiii,  pp.  329- 
333,  853-854.  1909. 

Notes,  chiefly  epigraphical. 
See  MUlinen. 

Sobernheim,    Moritz.     Materiaux   pour 

un     Corpus     Inscriptionum     Arabicarum. 

Deuxieme      partie.        Syrie      du      Nord. 

Fasc.  i,  impl.  4to,  pp.  vii  and  139,  with 

15  plates. 

Le  Caire,  1909. 

Memoires  de  I'Instilut  Francais  d'Archeologie 
Orientate  du  Caire,  tome  xxv. 

Das   Heiligtum    Shaik    Mu- 


hassin    in    Aleppo.       Melanges    Hartwig 

Derenbourg,  pp.  379-390. 

Leroux,  Paris,  1909. 

A  history  of  the  shrine  with  transliterations 
and  translations  of  the  five  inscriptions. 

Sobernheim,  M.     Halab.     Article  in  the 

Encyclopedia  of  Islam,  vol.  ii,  pp.  227-237, 

with  folding  map.  1915- 

See  iii,  Notes  on  the  Architectural  History 
(based  on  the  joint  researches  of  Dr.  Herzfeld 
and  the  writer),  pp.  233-236. 

.     Hama.     Article    in    the    En- 


cyclopadia  of  Islam,  vol.  ii,  pp.  240-241, 
with  folding  map.  191 S- 

.     Hims.     Article    in    the    En- 


cyclopedia of  Islam,  vol.  ii,  pp.  309-310, 
with  folding  map.  1916. 

.     Baalbek    in    islamischer   Zeit. 


Large  4to,  pp.  40,  with  6  figures  (facsimiles 
of  inscriptions). 

De  Gruyter,  Berlin,  1922. 

Vorabdruck  aws  dem  Werke  :  Baalbek,  Ergeb- 
nisse  der  Ausgrabungen  und  Untersuchungen  in 
den  Jahren  1S99  bis  1905,  Band  iii. 

Spiers,   R.    Phen6,   F.R.I.B.A.,    F.S.A. 

The  Great  Mosque  of  the  Omeiyades, 
Damascus.  Journ.  of  the  Roy.  Inst,  of 
Brit.  Architects,  vol.  iv,  third  series,  pp. 
25-40,  with  14  illustrations  ;  pp.  57-65, 
with  2  illustrations.  1897. 

Also  note  under  "  Chronicle,"  ibid.,  p.  41. 
This  account  is  fuller  and  the  illustrations  on 


MOSLEM   ARCHITECTURE   IN   PALESTINE 


a  larger  scale  than  the  same  articles  in  Architec- 
ture ■■  East  and  West. 

Additional  Notes,  as  a  result  of  further  in- 
vestigations made  on  the  spot  by  Mr.  A.  C. 
Dickie,  A.R.I.B.A.,  for  the  Palestine  Exploration 
Fund,  appeared  ibid.,  vol.  v,  pp.  1 66-1 71,  with 
6  illustrations. 

Spiers,   R.   Phen6,  F.R.I.B.A.,   F.S.A. 

The  Great  Mosque  of  Damascus.  Pales- 
tine Exploration  Fund,  0.  St.,  pp.  282- 
299,  with  8  illustrations.  1897. 

In  substance  the  same  as  that  published  in  the 
J.R.I.B.A.,  but  revised,  in  view  of  additional 
information,  received  subsequently  from  Dr. 
Masterman  of  Damascus,  and  from  Mr.  Dickie, 
who  was  specially  sent  by  the  Palestine  Fund 
Committee  to  make  fresh  researches. 

.     The    Great    Mosque    of    the 

Omeiyades,  Damascus.  Architectural  Re- 
view, vol.  viii,  pp.  80-88,  with  9  illustra- 
tions ;  pp.  103-114,  with  10  illustrations  ; 
pp.  158-169,  with  10  illustrations.       1900. 

The  illustrations  are  on  a  large  scale. 

Spoer,  Hans  H.     Das  Nebi-Musa-Fest. 
Zeitschr.   d.  Detitschen  Palaestina-V ereins, 
Band  xxxii,  pp.  207-221,  with  6  illustra- 
tions. 1909- 
See  abb.  5,  7,  and  9. 

Stadler,  Ferd.  Damascus  und  der  Khan 
Assad-Pascha  daselbst.  Zeitschrijt  fiir 
Bairuiesen,  Jahrg.  xix,  col.  567-572,  and 
plate  70  in  folio  volume.  1869. 

Street,  A.  E.     On  Fountains  and  Water 

Treatment.     Architectural  Review,  vol.  iv, 

pp.  44-50,  with  8  illustrations  ;   pp.  93-98, 

with  6  illustrations.  1898. 

Includes  :  Mosque  of  Omar,  Jerusalem  ; 
Courtyard  Reservoir,  Holy  Land  ;  a  Pool  in  the 
Holy  Lcmd. 

Stumme,    Dr.    Hans.      Inschriften    im 

Haram  in  Hebron.  Zeitschr.  d.  Deutschen 
Palaestina-V  ereins,  Band  xvii,  pp.  249- 
250.  1894. 

Suras  from  the  Kuran  over  Milira,  etc. 

See  also  Goldziher  (I.),  Guthe  (H.)  and 
Vincent  (H). 

Tarchi,  Ugo.  L'Architettura  e  I'arte 
musulmana  in  Egitto  e  nella  Palestina. 
Folio,  18  pp.  of  text  (Italian  and  French 


in  parallel  columns),  with  166  plates  and 
47  figures. 

Crudo,  Torino,  [1923]. 
See   Tavoli   5-11,   for   Jerusalem,    12-13   for 
Damascus,  13  for  Baalbek  and  60  for  Ramla. 

Thiersch,  Hermann.  Pharos.  Antike 
Islam  und  Occident.  Ein  Beitrag  zur 
Architekturgeschichte.  Mit  9  Tafeln,  2 
Beilagen  und  455  Abbildungen  im  Text. 
Impl.  4to,  pp.  viii  and  260. 

Teubner,  Leipzig  and  Berlin,  1909. 

See  "  Kapitel  V. — Die  Nachwirkungen  dcs 
Pharos  im  Mittelalter.  i. — In  der  islamischen 
Baukunst,"  pp.  97-174.  The  author,  in 
developing  his  well-known  theory  as  to  the  origin 
of  the  Egyptian  type  of  minaret,  passes  a  large 
number  of  Syrian  minarets  in  review. 

The  second  part  of  the  Appendix  (pp.  212-245) 
is  devoted  to  the  evolution  of  the  mosque  plan, 
and  an  entirely  new  theory  is  offered  as  to  the 
origin  of  the  plan  and  elevation  of  the  Great 
Mosque  at  Damascus.     See  pp.  214-217. 

Vincent,  L.  H.,  E.  J,  H.  Mackay 
and  F.  M.  Abel.  Hebron  :  le  Haram 
el-Khalil,  sepulture  des  Patriarches. 
Ouvrage  honore  d'une  souscription  de 
I'Academie  des  Inscriptions  et  Belles- 
Lettres.  Large  4to,  pp.  vi,  257  and  vi, 
with  28  plates  and  86  figures. 

Leroux,  Paris,  1923. 

Vincent,  L.  P.  Nebi  Samouil.  Revue 
biblique,  tome  xxxi,  "  Melanges,"  pp.  360— 
402,  planches  xi-xiii  and  figs.  I  and  2. 

1922. 

Vogu6,    Marquis    de.      La    citerne    de 

Ramleh    et     le    trace    des     arcs      brises. 

Memoires  de  I'Academie  des  Inscr.  et  Belles- 

Lettres,  tome  xxxix,  pp.   163-180,  with  3 

plates,  I  figure  and  9  diagrams.  1912. 

With  Kufic  inscription  dated  a.h.  172  (789): 
"  Le  principal  interet  de  ce  monument  r&ide 
dans  ce  fait  qu'il  offre  le  plus  ancien  exemple 
date  de  I'emploi  systematique  et  exclusif,  en 
Palestine  et  en  Egyptc,  de  I'arc  brise,  vulgaire- 
ment  appelc  ogive."  Includes  also  an  important 
study  on  the  setting-out  of  two-centred  arches. 

Wetzstein,      Dr.      Johann      Gottfried. 

Reisebericht  iiber  Hauran  und  die 
Trachonen,  nebst  einem  Anhange  iiber 
die   sabaischen   Denkmaler   in   Ostsyrien. 


83 


MOSLEM    ARCHITECTURE   IN    PALESTINE 


Mit    Karte,    Inschriftentafel    und    Holz- 

schnitten.     8vo,  pp.  vi  and  150. 

Reimer,  Berlin,  i860. 

For  Sala  and  Bosra.  Notes  on  the  Citadel, 
mosque,  etc.,  with  dating  inscriptions,  pp.  70-72- 

Wiet,  Gaston.  Les  Inscriptions  arabes 
de  Damas.     Syria,  tome  iii,  pp.  153-163. 

1922. 

On  a  collection  of  copies  of  several  hundred 
inscriptions  at  Damascus,  made  for  Waddington 
by  a  Syrian,  and  recently  found  by  M.  Courant 
of  Lyons. 

Williams,     Robert,      F.R.I.B.A.       An 

Architectural  Quest.  The  Architect,  vol. 
Ixxxix,  pp.  32-40,  with  17  illustrations  ; 
pp.  67-69,  with  8  illustrations  ;  pp.  97-99, 
with  7  illustrations.  1913- 

See  illustration  on  p.  26  :  "  Baalbek. — Ruins 
of  Mosque  built  in  the  Thirteenth  Century  from 
the  ruins  of  Roman  Temples  "  ;  also  on  p.  29  : 
"  Aleppo. — Interior  of  the  Mosque  of  Halawia." 

Wilson,  Colonel.  Picturesque  Palestine, 
Sinai  and  Egypt.  Edited  by  Colonel 
Wilson,  assisted  by  the  most  eminent 
Palestine  explorers.  4to,  4  vols.,  pp.  xx 
and  240  ;  vi  and  240  ;  vi  and  240  ;  vi 
and  236.  With  44  steel  engravings  and 
several  hundred  woodcuts. 

Virtue,  London,  [1880-83]. 

Wilson.  Extracts  from  the  Diary  of 
Captain  (now  Major-General  Sir  Charles) 
Wilson,  in  1865.  Palestine  Exploration 
Fund,  Q.  St.,  pp.  299-301.  1897. 


III.     FOR   JERUS.\LEM   ONLY 

Abel,  F.  M.  Pour  la  conservation 
de  Jerusalem.  Revue  Bihliqiie,  nouvelle 
serie,  tome  xv,  "  Chronique,"  pp.  550-552. 

1918. 

Foreshadowing  the  formation  of  the  Pro- 
Jerusalem  Society  by  Colonel  (now  Sir  Ronald) 
Storrs,  the  Military  Governor. 

Adler,  F.  Der  Felsendom  und  die 
heilige  Grabeskirche  zu  Jerusalem.  Vor- 
trag,  gehalten  fiir  den  wissenschaftlichen 
Verein    in    der    Sing-Akademie    am    18. 


84 


Januar     1873.     Mit     zwei     Lithografien. 
8vo,  pp.  27. 

Habel,  Berlin,  1873. 

Virchom  und  Holtzendorff.  Sammlung  Ge- 
meinverstdndlicher  wissenschajtlicher  I'ortrdge, 
Serie  viii,  No.  188. 

Arren,  J.  La  mosquee  d'Omar  violee. 
Revue  Archeologique,  iv®  serie,  tome  xvii, 
PP- 452-453-  19"- 

On  the  excavations  of  Captain  Parker. 

Ashbee,  C.  R.  Jerusalem  1918-1920. 
Being  the  Records  of  the  Pro- Jerusalem 
Council  during  the  period  of  the  British 
Military  Administration.  Edited  by  C.  R. 
Ashbee.  410,  pp.  xvi  and  87,  with  79 
illustrations. 

Murray,  London,  192 1. 

See  "  Muslim  Work  Touched  by  the  Pro- 
Jerusalem  Society,"  by  K.  A.  C.  Creswell,  pp. 
67-70  and  illus.  77-79. 

Barclay,  J.  T.  The  City  of  the  Great 
King  ;  or  Jerusalem  as  it  was,  as  it  is, 
and  as  it  is  to  be.  Large  8vo,  pp.  xxiii 
and  627,  with  17  plates  (5  coloured)  and 
45  illustrations. 

Challen,  Philadelphia,  1858. 

Bartlett,  W.  H.     Walks  about  the  City 

and  Environs  of  Jerusalem.     8vo,  pp.  viii 

and    224,    with    16   steel    engravings,    26 

illustrations  and  a  map. 

Virtue,  London,  [1844]. 

See  pp.  161-178  for  Catherwood's  account  of 
the  Dome  of  the  Rock,  etc.,  written  in  1833. 

Bartolini.      Le    temple    de   Salomon    a 

Jerusalem.     Revue  de   VArt  chretien,   xiv° 

annee,  pp.  217-227,  with  i  plate  ;  pp.  265- 

271,  with   I   plate  ;    pp.   321-325,  with   i 

plate;    pp.   377-381,  with   I   plate;      pp. 

433-444.  1870. 

The  Dome  of  the  Rock,  pp.  377  ff.,  with  i  plate 
(plan). 

Becker,  Heinricb.  Die  Tempel  zu  Jeru- 
salem. Allegemeine  Bauzeitung,  Jahrg.lviii, 

PP-  5-7,  i4-i8>  30-31-  1893- 

The  Qubbet  as-Sakhra  (which  the  author 
believes  to  be  the  church  built  by  Coustantiae), 
pp.  16-18. 


MOSLEM    ARCHITECTURE   IN    PALESTINE 


Berchem,  Max  van.  Arabische  In- 
schrift  aus  Jerusalem.  Mitth.  undNachr. 
des  Deutschen  Palaestina-Vereins,  Jahrg. 
iii,  pp.  70-78,  with  I  facsimile  and  i 
plan.     [Note  by  Vollers,  p.  86.]         1897. 

English  translation :  Palestine  Exploration 
Fund,  Q.  St.,  pp.  86-93,  with  1  plan  and  a  photo- 
graph of  the  inscription.  1898. 

An  undated  Kuijc  inscription,  which  the  author 
suggests  may  be  of  Muktadir  about  a.d.  930, 
referring  to  a  mosque. 

See  Clermont-Ganueau :  La  basilique  de 
Constantm,  etc. 

.      Materiaux    pour   un     Corpus 

Inscriptionum  Arabicarum.  Deuxieme 
partie  :  Syria  du  Sud.  Tome  premier. — 
Jerusalem  "  Ville."  Imp].  410,  pp.  xxxii 
and  464,  with  72  figures.  Tome  troisieme. 
Impl.  4to,    120  plates. 

Institut  franfais        d'archeologie 

orientale,  Le  Caire,  1920-1923. 

Memoires  de  I'Institut  franfais  d'archeologie 
orientale,  tomes  xliii  and  xlv. 

Tome  ii  is  in  the  press.  It  will  contain  the 
inscriptions  of  the  Haram  Area. 

A  fundamental  work  for  the  study  of  the 
Moslem  architecture  of  Jerusalem.  It  contains 
a  great  amount  of  architectural  and  archaiological 
information,  and  the  plans  of  a  great  number  of 
buildings  are  given.  The  plates  also  are  full  of 
architectural  subjects. 

Besant,    Walter,   and   E.    H.    Palmer. 

Jerusalem,  the  City  of  Herod   &  Saladin. 

with  a  frontispiece.     8vo,  pp.  xii  and  532. 

Chatto  &  Windus,  London,  1899. 

Building  of  the  Dome  of  the  Rock,  mosque 
of  ElAksa,  etc.,  pp.  86-98  ;  see  also  pp.  433-435- 
Previous  editions:  1871,  1888.  A  thin  paper 
edition  in  1908. 


Bourgoin, 

Folio. 


Jules.       Les     Arts     arabes. 
Morel,  Paris,  1873. 

See  plate  2  (Turbeh  of  Jalikiyyat  Khatun) 
and  14  (Madrasa  Rasasiya).  See  also  plates  51 
and  91. 

Castelnau,  L.  de.  Ein  Besuch  in  der 
Omarmoschee  in  Jerusalem.  Aus  dem 
Berichte  des  Hrn.  L.  de  Castelnau  an 
den  franzosischen  Kultusminister.  Allge- 
meine  Bauzeitung,  Jahrg.  xxi,  "  Notiz- 
blatt,"  pp.  47-49.  1856. 


Catherwood,  F.  Description  of  a  View 
of  the  City  of  Jerusalem,  and  the  sur- 
rounding country,  now  exhibiting  at  the 
Panorama,  Leicester  Square.  Painted  by 
the  Proprietor,  Robert  Burford.  From 
Drawings  taken  in  1834,  ^Y  ■^^^-  ^-  Cather- 
wood, Architect.  8vo,  pp.  12,  with  fold- 
ing plate. 

Brettell,  London,  1835. 

Clermont-Ganneau,  Ch.    The  Jerusalem 

Researches.  Letters  vii  and  viii.  Pales- 
tine Exploration  Fund,  0.  St.,  pp.  135-158, 
with  7  figures.  i874- 

Notes  on,  and  discoveries  regarding  the 
Qubbat  as-Sakhra  during  the  repairs  in  1873/4. 

See  also:  Lt.  Conder's  Report,  ibid.,  1873, 
p.  154,  and  Tyrwhitt  Drake's  Report,  ibid.,  1874, 
pp.  63-6. 

.     La  basilique  de  Constantin  et 


la  mosquee  d'Omar  a  Jerusalem.  Recueil 
d'Archeologie  orientale,  tome  ii,  pp.  302- 
362,  with  3  illustrations.  1898. 

The  mosque  of  Omar  referred  to  here  is  not 
the  Qubbat  as-Sakhra,  but  one  of  the  many 
mosques  named  after  Omar  which  were  built  at 
various  points  in  Jerusalem.  The  inscription, 
which  had  just  been  discovered,  on  which  this 
paper  is  written,  refers  to  a  mosque  named  after 
Omar,  which  was  built  at  the  latest  in  the  loth 
century  (the  author  suggests  a.d.  936/7),  in 
the  vestibule  of  the  Basilica  of  Constantine,  at 
the  top  of  the  staircase  giving  access  to  it. 

See  also  ibid.,  tome  iv,  pp.  2S3-287.  On 
fresh  evidence  he  attributes  the  inscription  to 
el-Hakim. 

See  Berchem  (M.  van)  :  Arabische  Inschrift  aus 
Jerusalem. 

.     Une  inscription   inconnue   du 

calife  'Abd  el-Melik  a  la  Sakhra.     Recueil 

d'Archeologie  orientale,  tome  ii,  p.  400. 

1898. 

On  an  inscription  existing  in  the  17th  century 
in  the  Qubbat  as-Sakhra,  relating  its  construc- 
tion by  the  Khalif  'Abd  al-Malik. 

.     L'hemisphere,  abside  ou  cibo- 

rium  du  Martyrion  de  Constantin  et  de  la 

Mosquee   d'Omar.      Recueil   d'Archeologie 

orientale,  tome  iii,  pp.  88-90.  lS99' 

Quotation  from  Eutychius  (d.  a.d.  940)  to 
the  eBect  that  the  Khalif  al-WaUd  carried  oS  a 
dome  of  brass  gilt  (in  which  description  the 
author  recognizes  the  hemispherical  cover  of  a 
ciborium)  from  a  church  at  Baalbek,  in  order  to 


85 


MOSLEM   ARCHITECTURE   IN   PALESTINE 


cover  the  Sakhra  (rock)  at  Jerusalem — where  it 
was  no  doubt  placed  like  a  baldachino  over  the 
sacred  spot,  in  emulation  of  the  Christian 
practice. 

Conder,  Claude,  Lieut.  R.E.     The  High 

Sanctuary    at     Jerusalem.      Transactions 

of  the  Roy.  Inst,  of  Brit.  Architects,  vol. 

xxix,  pp.  25-60,  with  3  plates.  1879. 

Communication  on  the  above  from  E.  C. 
Robins,  F.S..A.,  ibid.,  pp.  231-232. 

Conder,    Lieut.-Col.     Claude    Reignier. 

Syrian  Stone  Lore  ;    or,  the  Monumental 

History  of  Palestine.     New  [3rd]  edition. 

Sm.  8vo,  pp.  xvi  and  484,  with  28  figures 

and  3  folding  maps. 

Palestine  Exploration  Fund,  London, 

1896. 

See  pp.  355-362  for  the  Dome  of  the  Rock  and 
the  Aqsa  Mosque. 

Dalman,  Prof.  Gustaf.  Die  Grabungen 
nach  dem  Tempelschatz  von  Jerusalem. 
Mitth.  und  Nachr.  ies  Deutschen  Palaestina- 
Vereins,  pp.  56-61.  191 1. 

.     Neue  Petra-Forschungen  und 

der  heilige  Felsen  von  Jerusalem.  Mit  64 
Ansichten  und  19  Planen.  4to,  pp.  viii 
and  172. 

Hinrich,  Leipzig,  191 2. 

"  Der  heilige  Felsen  von  Jerusalem,"  pp.  iii- 
151  ;  contains  many  photographs  of  the  interior 
of  the  Qubbat  as-Sakkra. 

Debio,   G.     Ein    Proportionsgesetz   der 

antiken    Baukunst    und    sein    Nachleben 

im   Mittelalter   und  in   der   Renaissance. 

Large    8vo,     pp.      36,    with     60     plates. 

Triibner,  Strassburg,  1895. 

See  plate  ix,  which  shows  the  author's  ideas 
applied  to  a  section  of  the  Dome  of  the  Rock.  A 
system  of  triangulation  is  superimposed  on  it 
which  gives  most  of  the  hxed  points. 

Du   Camp,  Maxime.     Egypte,   Nubie, 

Palestine    et    Syrie.      Dessins    photogra- 

phiques     recueillis     pendant    Ies    annees 

1849,  1850  et  1851.     Folio,  pp.  61,  with 

125   plates  (photographs  mounted). 

Gide  et  Baudry,  Paris,  1852. 

See  Planche  113  for  the  wall  from  the  Citadel 
to  the  S.W.  comer  of  Jerusalem,  and  Planche 
117  for  the  Dome  of  the  Rock. 

86 


Fergusson,  James.  An  Essay  on  the 
Ancient  Topography  of  Jerusalem,  with 
restored  plans  of  the  Temple,  &c.,  and 
plans,  sections  and  details  of  the  church 
built  by  Constantine  the  Great  over  the 
Holy  Sepulchre,  now  known  as  the  Mosque 
of  Omar,  and  other  illustrations.  410,  pp. 
xvi  and  188, with  7  plates  and  lowoodcuts, 
Weale,  London,  1847. 

The  Holy  Sepulchre  and  the 


Temple  at  Jerusalem.  Being  the  sub- 
stance of  two  lectures  delivered  in  the 
Royal  Institution,  Albemarle  Street,  on 
the  2 1  St  February,  1862,  and  3rd  March, 
1865.  8vo,  pp.  xvi  and  151,  with  i  plate 
and  30  figures. 

Murray,  London,  1865. 

"El  Aksah,"   pp.   36-45,  with   i  figure  and 
2  plans. 

The  Temples  of  the  Jews  and 


the  other  buildings  in  the  Haram  area  at 
Jerusalem.  4to,  pp.  xviii  and  304,  with 
9  plates  and  79  figures. 

Murray,  London,  1878. 

Part  III,  "Christian  and  Saracenic  buildings 
in  the  Haram  area,"  pp.  193-260. 

Frith,  Francis.  Sinai  and  Palestine. 
Folio,  with  36  plates  (mounted  photo- 
graphs), I  leaf  of  text  to  each. 

Mackenzie,  London,  n.d. 

Includes   photographs   of   the    Dome   of   the 
Rock  and  the  mosque  of  al-.Aqsa. 

Fuller,  Major  A.  R.  An  Account  of 
Jerusalem,  translated  for  the  late  Sir 
H.  M.  Elliot,  from  the  Persian  text  of 
Nisir  ibn  Khusrii's  Safarnamah.  Journ. 
Roy.  Asiatic  Society,  new  series,  vol.  vi, 
pp.  142-164.  1873. 

Contains  a  detailed  description  of  the  Qubbat 
as-Sakhra,  etc.,  in  a.h.  438  [1047]. 

Gildemeister,  Dr.  J.  Beitrage  zur 
Paliistinakunde  aus  arabischen  Quellen. 
Zeitschr.  d.  Deutschen  Palaestina-V ereins, 


MOSLEM   ARCHITECTURE   IN    PALESTINE 


Band  iv,  pp.  85-92  ;  vi,  pp.  1-12  ;  vii,  pp. 
143-172,  215-230;    viii,  pp.   117-145. 

1881-1884. 

Includes  "  Ibn  Abd  rabbih  :  Beschreibung 
der  Moschee  von  Jerusalem,"  iv,  pp.  89-91,  etc. 

Gildemeister,   Dr.   J.     Die    arabischen 

Nachrichten  zur  Geschichte  der  Haram- 
bauten.  Zcitschr.  d.  Deutschen  Palaestina- 
Vereins,  Band  xiii,  pp.  1-24.  1890. 

Gressmann,  Hugo.  Der  Felsendom  in 
Jerusalem.  Paldstinajahrbuch.  Jahrg.  iv, 
pp.  54-66,  with  2  illustrations  on  i  plate. 

1908. 

Gu6rin,  Victor.  La  Terre  Sainte.  Jeru- 
salem et  le  nord  de  la  Judee.  Ouvrage 
illustre  de  147  gravures  dans  le  texte  et 
hors  texte.     410,  pp.  338. 

Plon,  Paris,  1897. 

"  Jerusalem  apres  I'invasion  arabe.  Sanctu- 
aires  musulmans  du  Haram  ech-cherif,"  pp. 
165-177,  with  6  illustrations. 

Hanauer,  Rev.  J,  E.  Walks  about 
Jerusalem.  8vo,  pp.  xvii  and  260,  with 
193  illustrations. 

London  Society  for  Promoting  Chris- 
tianity amongst  the  Jews.  Lon- 
don, 1910. 

Harper,  Henry  A.  Walks  in  Palestine. 
Illustrated  by  24  photogravures  from 
photographs  taken  by  Cecil  V.  Shadbolt. 
4to,  pp.  128. 

Religious     Tract     Society,     London, 

1888. 

See  pp.  23-27,  70-77,  and  plates  4,  13-14. 

Hartmann,  Richard.  Studien  aus  dem 
Deutschen  evang.  archaolog.  Insti- 
tut  zu  Jerusalem.  17.  Geschichte  der 
Aksa-Moschee  zu  Jerusalem.  Zeitschr.  d. 
Deutschen  Palaestina-V ereins,  Band  xxxii, 
pp.  185-207.  1909. 

Hartman,  Richard.  Der  Felsendom  in 
Jerusalem  und  seine  Geschichte.  Mit  5 
Lichtdrucktafeln.     4to,  pp.  73. 

Heitz,  Strassburg,  1909. 


Harvey,  William.  Jerusalem  Door- 
ways. Architectural  Review,  vol.  xxxi,  pp. 
201-206,  with  12  illustrations.  1912. 

Chiefly  devoted  to  the  Tenkiziyya   Madrasa 
and  the  Old  Serai. 


-.   Colour  in  Architecture.     Joiirn. 


of  the  Roy.  Inst,  of  British  Architects, 
vol.  xxix,  Third  Series,  pp.  485-501,  with 
5  illustrations.  1922. 

See  p.  495  and  figs.  3-5  for  the  Dome  of  the 
Rock.  The  three  illustrations  are  much  reduced 
from  the  beautiful  drawings  made  by  William 
Harvey  ;  they  are  in  the  possession  of  the 
Byzantine  Research  Fund,  who  have  not  yet 
published  the  book  for  which  they  were  made. 

Hasak,  D.  Die  Konigliche  Halle  des 
Herodes,  die  Marienkirche  Justinians  und 
die  Moschee  el-Aksa  auf  dem  Tempelplatz 
in  Jerusalem.  Zeitschr.  d.  Deutschen 
Palaestina-V  ereins,  Band  xxxvi,  pp.  300- 
309,  with  I  plan.  1913- 

Herzfeld,  Ernst.  Die  Qubbat  al- 
Sakhra,  ein  Denkmal  friihislamischer 
Baukunst.  Der  Islam,  Band  ii,  pp.  235- 
244,  with  I  figure  (plan).  1911. 

.     Zu     Strzygowski's    Aufsatzen 

in  Band  ii,  79  ff.  u.  OLZ  191 1  Nr.  4.  Der 
/j-/<2/w.  Band  ii,  pp.  411-413.  1911. 

See  Strzygowski's  Felsendom  und  .i  ksamoschee- 

Holscher,  G.  Englische  Schatzgraber 
im  Felsendom  zu  Jerusalem.  Mitth.  und 
Nachr.  des  Deutschen  Palaestina-V  ereins, 
Jahrg.  xvii,  pp.  44-46.  191 1. 

Jeffery,  Geo.     The  Secondary  Churches 

of  Jerusalem  and  its  Suburbs.     Journ.  of 

the  Roy.  Inst,  of  Brit.  Architects,  vol.  xviii, 

Third  Series,  pp.  737-766,   with   10  plans 

and  illustrations.  1911. 

Includes  notes  on  the  Harim,  the  Dome  of 
the  Rock,  the  Mosque  of  al-Aqsa,  etc. 

Lagrange,  M.  J.  La  pretendue  viola- 
tion    de     la     mosquee     d'Omar.     Revue 

87 


MOSLEM   ARCHITECTURE   IN   PALESTINE 


Biblique,    nouvelle    serie,    tome    viii,    pp. 
440-442.  191 1. 

Lees,  G.  Robinson.  Jerusalem  Illus- 
trated. With  a  preface  by  the  Rt.  Rev. 
Bishop  Blyth ;  and  an  appendix  illus- 
trating the  models  [of  the  Temple  area  at 
all  periods]  of  Herr  Baurath  von  Schick, 
with  descriptive  letterpress,  translated 
by  the  Rev.  J.  E.  Hanauer.  8vo,  pp.  [x] 
and  163,  with  74  illustrations  and  5  plans. 
Mawson,     Swan,    &    Morgan,    New- 

castle-on-Tyne :      Gay    &    Bird, 

London,  1893. 

Le  Strange,  Guy.     Notices  of  the  Dome 

of  the  Rock   and   of   the    Church  of  the 

Sepulchre    by    Arab    Historians    prior    to 

the  First  Crusade.     Palestine  Exploration 

Fund,    Q.    St.,   pp.  90-103,  with  plan  of 

the  Haram  area.  1887. 

To  show  that  the  Dome  of  the  Rock  does  not 
represent  the  Basilica  erected  by  Constantine, 
as  maintained  by  Fergusson. 

Description     of    the     Noble 


Sanctuary  at  Jerusalem  in  a.d.  1470, 
by  Kamal  (or  Shams)  ad  Din  as  Suyuti. 
Extracts  re-translated  by  Guy  Le  Strange. 
Journ.  Roy.  Asiatic  Society,  New  Series, 
vol.  xix,  pp.  247-305,  with  I  plate.     1887. 

Idrisi's  description  of  Jerusa- 


lem in  1 1 54.     Palestine  Exploration  Fund, 
0.  St.,  pp.  31-35.  1888. 

An    Inscription    in    the    Aksa 


Mosque.     Palestine  Exploration  Fund,  Q. 
St.,  pp.  278-280.  1888. 

Lewin,  Thomas.     The  Mosque  of  Omar. 

Archceologia,   vol.   xli,   pp.    135-150,   with 

I  plate.  1867. 

The  %vriter  compares  it  with  the  Temple  of 
Jupiter  at  Spalato,  and  comes  to  the  conclusion 
that  the  present  building  is  in  fact  the  Temple 
of  Jupiter  Capitolinus  restored  or  rebuilt  by 
Maximin  Daza,  the  successor  of  Diocletian  !  !  ! 

Lewis,  Prof.   T.   Hayter,   F.S.A.     The 

Mosque    El    Aksa,    Jerusalem.     Palestine 

88 


Exploration  Fund,  Q.  St.,  pp.  47-49,  with 

2  plans.  1887. 

One  plan  shows  mosque  as  it  was  according 
to  Muqaddasi. 

Lewis,  Prof.   T.  Hayter,  F.S.A..     The 

Holy  Places  of  Jerusalem.      8vo,  pp.  xii 

and  130,  with  many  illustrations. 

Murray,  London,  1888. 

Chapters  on  the  Dome  of  the  Rock,  the  Mosque 
of  al-Aq5a,  etc. 

Lloyd,  W.  Watkins.  Mr.  Fergusson  on 
the  Temple  of  Jerusalem.  The  Architect, 
vol.  xix,  pp.  262-264  ;    320-322.  1878. 

An  article  on  Fergusson's  work  [q.v.]. 

Mauss,  C.  Note  sur  la  methode  em- 
ployee pour  tracer  le  plan  de  la  mosquee 
d'Omar  et  de  la  rotonde  du  Saint-Sepulcre 
a  Jerusalem.  Revue  Archeologique,  iii'' 
serie,  tome  xii,  pp.  1-3 1,  with  3  plates 
and  II  figures  in  the  text.  1888. 

Showing  that  the  proportions  were  obtained 
by  a  system  of  triangulation.  In  the  first  case 
right-angled,  in  the  second  case,  equilateral 
triangles  were  used. 

.     Note  pour  faire  suite  au  trace 

du  plan  de  la  mosquee  d'Omar,  public 
en  juin-juillet,  1888.  Revue  Archeolo- 
gique, iii*  serie,  tome  xiv,  pp.   194-200. 

1889. 

On  the  unit  of  measurement  used  by  the 
designers. 

MitcheU,  Hinckley  G.  The  Modern  Wall 
of  Jerusalem.  Annual  of  the  American 
School  of  Oriental  Research  in  Jerusalem, 
vol.  i,  pp.  28-50,  with  71  figures.  1920. 

Offord,  Joseph.  Documents  concerning 
Jerusalem  in  the  Aphrodito  Papyri  of  the 
Mohammedan  Era.  Palestine  Exploration 
Fund,  Q.  St.,  pp.  20^-206.  1912. 

Relating  to  workmen  for  the  "  mosque  at 
Jerusalem "  and  "  the  Palace  of  the  Amir  al- 
Mu'minin."     Date  c.  708-714  a.d. 

Palmer,  E.  H.  History  of  the  Haram 
es  Sherif.  Compiled  from  the  Arabic 
Historians.  Palestine  Exploration  Fund, 
0.  St.,  pp.  122-132,  164-170.  1871. 


MOSLEM    ARCHITECTURE   IN   PALESTINE 


PSris,     Le     contre-amiral.        Souvenirs 

de  Jerusalem.     Album  dessine  par  M.  le 

contre-amiral     Paris.     Lithographic     par 

Hubert  Clerget,  Bachelier,  Jules  Gaildrau 

et  Fichot.      Ouvrage  public  par  I'escadre 

dc  la   Meditcrranee.     Impl.   folio,    pp.    4, 

with  14  plates  (13  coloured). 

Bertrand,  Paris,  [1862]. 

Includes  2  fine  lithographs  of  the  interior  of 
the  Dome  of  the  Rock,  and  i  of  the  interior  of 
the  Mosque  of  al-Aqsa. 

Paris,  Vice-Admiral.  Beschrcibung  der 
Omarmoschee  und  der  Moschee  El-Aksa 
zu  Jerusalem.  Allgemeine  Bauzeitung, 
Jahrg.    xxix,   Lit.-blatt,   pp.    355-358. 

1864. 

Payer,    Alois.      Album    von    Jerusalem 

in  25  Ansichten  aus  den  heiligen  Landern, 

nach  photografischen  Original-Aufnahmen 

von  Alois  Payer  .  .  .  unter  der  Leitung 

des    Dr.    Ignaz    Knoblecher.       P*^    Heft. 

Sm.  oblong  folio. 

Dittmarsch,  Wien,  [1866]. 

Plate  iiis  :  "Die  Eck-Moschee  "  (Minaret). 
Also  shown  in  ive.  No  more  published.  Heft  i 
contains  plates  3-6,  16  and  17  only. 

Pierotti,  Ermete.  Jerusalem  Explored  : 
being  a  description  of  the  ancient  and 
modern  city.  Translated  by  Thomas 
George  Bonney.  4to,  2  vols.,  pp.  xii  and 
339  j  [''^]>  with  63  plates  (many  tinted), 
and  explanatory  notes  interleaved. 

Bell,  London  :    Deighton,  Cambridge, 

1864. 

See  plates  xi,  xiv,  xxi,  xxiii,  xxiv,  ixvi-xxix, 
xliii-xlvi,  and  liii. 

Reynolds,  Rev.  James.  The  History 
of  the  Temple  of  Jerusalem  :  translated 
from  the  Arabic  MS.  of  the  Imam  Jalal- 
addin  al  Siiiti.  With  notes  and  disserta- 
tions. Large  8vo,  pp.  xxxvi,  xx  and  551. 
Valpy,  London,  1836. 

Oriental  Translation  Fund. 

This  translation  has  been  very  severely 
criticised  by  G.  Le  Strange  [q-v.],  who  has  re- 
translated portions  of  the  work. 

Riess,  Dr.  von.  Zur  Baugeschichte 
des  Felsendomes  in  Jerusalem.     Zeitschr. 

O 


d.     Deutschen     Palaestina-Vereins,     Band 

xi,  pp.  197-211.  1888. 

An  article  on  Conrad  Schick's  Beit  el  Makdas 
[q-v.]. 

Rosen,    Dr.    G.      Topographisches    aus 

Jerusalem.     Zeitschr.    d.    Deutschen    vior- 

genldndischen  Gesellschajt,   Band  xiv,   pp. 

605-621,  with  double-page  map.         i86o. 

Includes  notes  on  the  Qubbat  as-Sakhra. 

Salzmann,  Auguste.  Jerusalem.  Etude 
de  reproduction  photographique  des  monu- 
ments de  la  Ville  Sainte,  depuis  I'epoque 
judaique  jusqu'a  nos  jours.  Text  :  folio, 
pp.  92,  with  3  plates  (i  coloured)  and 
many  figures  ;  plates  :  atlas  folio,  2  vols., 
with  81  and  93. 

Gide  et  Baudry,  Paris,  1856. 

There  was  a  "  Grande  Edition  "  and  a  "  Petite 
edition  "  of  the  plates.  In  the  former  the 
photographs  number  180  (on  174  plates)  and 
measure  24  x  34  cm.,  in  the  latter  there  are 
40  only,  measuring  16  X  22  cm. 

See  Monuments  arabes,  pp.  76-90,  with  18 
figures,  and  47  plates  in  atlas-folio. 

Schick,  C.  Die  Baugeschichte  der 
Stadt  Jerusalem  in  kurzen  Umrissen  von 
den  altesten  Zeiten  bis  auf  die  Gegen- 
wart  dargestellt.  Zeitschr.  d.  Deutschen 
Palaestina-Vereins,  Band  xvi,  pp.  237-246, 
with  2  figures  ;  xvii,  pp.  1-24,  with  a 
folding  plan  and  2  figures,  pp.  75-88, 
165-179,  251-276.  1893-1894. 

.     Letters,  HL — Notes  of  changes 

in    Jerusalem    Buildings,    &c.        Palestine 

Exploration   Fund,    Q.    St.,    pp.    19-21. 

1894. 

Minaret  of  the  Haram  Esh  Sherif ;  spire 
"  removed  and  a  dome-shaped  stone  top  put  on." 


.     Reports,   No.    3  :     Mosque   in 

the  Street  "  Suweikat  Allun  "  [Jerusalem], 
Palestine  Exploration  Fund,  0.  St.,  p.  217. 

1896. 

Die    Stiftshiitte,    der    Temper 


in  Jerusalem  und  der  Tempelplatz  del 
Jetztzeit.  Dargestellt.  Mit  47  in  den 
Text    gedruckten    Abbildungen    und    11 

89 


MOSLEM   ARCHITECTURE   IN   PALESTINE 


lithographierten  Tafeln.  8vo,  pp.  viii 
and  363. 

Weidmann,  Berlin,  1896. 
For  Moslem  buildings  see  pp.  226-283. 

Schick,  C.    Reports  and  Papers.    No.  i  : 

The  Kubbet  "  Shekfee  Sakhra."  Also 
called  the  "  Little  Sakhra,"  in  the  Haram 
es  Sherif,  Jerusalem.  Palestine  Explora- 
tion Fund,  Q.  St.,  pp.  103-105,  with  plan, 
section  and  elevation.  1807. 

.     Reports,     VII. — The     Book: 

"  Palestine  under  the  Moslems."  Pales- 
tine Exploration  Fund,  Q.   St.,  pp.  84-85. 

1898. 

Note  re  p.  122,  confirming  the  correctness,  at 
the  present  day,  of  Ibn  al  Fakih's  statement  re 
30  pillars  supporting  the  Dome  of  the  Rock. 

Schick,  Dr.  Conrad.  Birket  as-Sultan, 
Jerusalem.  Palestine  Exploration  Fund, 
Q.  St.,  pp.  224-229,  with  I  folding  plate. 

1898. 

Sepp,  Dr.  Bernh.  Die  Felsenkuppel  in 
Jerusalem.  Zeitschr.  d.  Deutschen  Palaes- 
tina-Vereins,  Band  xii,  pp.  167-192,  with 
I  illustration  (section).  1889. 

Sepp,  Prof.  [J.  N.]  Neue  architek- 
tonische  Studien  und  historisch-topo- 
graphische  Forschungen  in  Palastina.  Mit 
siebzig  lUustrationen.  8vo,  pp.  xliv  and 
256. 

Stahel,  Wiirzburg,  1867. 

Chap,  ii.  Die  Hagia  Sophia  order  Felsenkuppel, 
ein  werk  Justinianus  ;  iii,  Erbauung  der  Aksa 
durch  den  Chalifer  Abd  el  Melik. 

Sepp,  Prof.  J.  N.  and  Dr.  Bernh.  Sepp. 

Die  Felsenkuppel  eine  Justinianische 
Sophienkirche  und  die  iibrigen  Tempel 
Jerusalems.  8vo,  pp.  xxiv  and  176,  with 
I  plate  and  41  illustrations. 

Kellerer,  Miinchen,  1882. 

Simpson,     William.      Transference     of 

Sites.     Palestine  Exploration  Fund,  Q.  St., 

pp.  18-32,  with  4  figures.  1879. 

On  the  Holy  Sepulchre  and  the  Dome  of  the 
Rock. 

90 


Simpson,  William.  The  Sakhrah. 
Palestine  Exploration  Fund,  0.  St.,  pp. 
74-75,  with  view  and  plan.  1887. 

.     The  Holy  Sepulchre  and  the 

Dome   of  the  Rock.      Palestine  Explora- 
tion Fund,  0.  St.,  pp.  14-17.  1889. 

On  the  connection  between  the  design  of  the 
two  buildings,  and  a  quotation  from  Muqaddasi 
in  support  of  this  opinion. 

Spence,  T.  R.  Jerusalem  from  an 
Architectural  Point  of  View.  Architec- 
tural Review,  vol.  vi,  pp.  253-262,  with  8 
illustrations.  iS99- 

Strzygowski,    Josef.      Felsendom    und 
Aksamoschee.    Eine  Abwehr.     Der  Islam, 
Band  ii,  pp.  79-97,  with  5  plates.        191 1. 
See  Herzfeld,  Zu  Slrzygowski's  Aufsdizen. 

Tobler,  Dr.  Titus.  Zwei  Biicher  Topo- 
graphic von  Jerusalem  und  seinen  Um- 
gebungen.  Erster  Buch  :  Die  heilige 
Stadt.  Zweites  Buch  :  Die  Umgebungen. 
8vo,  2  vols.,  pp.  cvi  and  677,  with  4 
plates  ;  pp.  iv  and  1033,  with  i  plate  and 
several  figures  in  the  text. 

Reimer,  Berlin,  185  3-1 854. 

"Die  Moscheen,"  i,  pp.  456-614.  With 
numerous  references  to  the  descriptions  of 
mediaeval  travellers,  both  Christian  and  Muham- 
madan. 

Vaux,  Baron  Ludovic  de.  La  Pales- 
tine. Ouvrage  illustre  par  P.  Chardin  et 
C.  Mauss.  4to,  pp.  ii  and  527,  with  154 
illustrations  and  a  map. 

Leroux,  Paris,  1883. 

For  the  Haram  ash-Sharif  and  the  buildings 
within  it  see  pp.  188-215,  with  i  plate  and  3 
illustrations.  See  also  p.  297,  for  plan  and  view 
of  a  mausoleum  in  the  Mamillah  cemetery  at 
Jerusalem. 

Vincent,  F.  H.     Nouvelles  de  Jerusalem. 

Revue  Bibltque,  nouvelle  serie,  tome  xvi, 

"  Chronique,"  pp.  252-254.  1919 

Notes  on  the  clearing  away  of  hovels,  debris 
etc.,  from  the  interior  of  the  citadel. 

Vogii^,    Le   comte   Melchior   de.      Les 

Eglises  de  la  Terre  Sainte.     Sm.  4to,  pp. 

464,  with  28  plates,  23  figures  and  2  maps. 

Didron,  Paris,  i860. 

See  chap,  vi,  pp.  266-291,  and  Planches  xix 
and  XX,  for  tlie  Dome  of  the  Rock  and  the 
Mosque  of  al-Aqsa. 


MOSLEM   ARCHITECTURE   IN   PALESTINE 


Vogu6,  Le   comte   Melchior    de.     Le 

Temple  de  Jerusalem.  Monographie  du 
Haram-Ech-Cherif,  suivie  d'un  essai  sur 
la  topographie  de  la  Ville-Sainte.  Folio, 
pp.  vii  and  148,  with  37  plates  (ii 
coloured)  and  56  figures. 

Noblet   &  Baudry,  Paris,   1864. 

La  mosquee  d'Omar  a  Jeru- 


salem.   Revue  illustree  de  La  Terre  Sainte, 

tome  xxii,  1905. 

Illustration,  p.   129  (chaire  d'Omar),  illustra- 
tion p.  137  (mosquee  d'Omar),  p.  142  s. 

Warren,  Col.  Sir  Charles,  K.C.M.G.,  and 
Capt.  C.  R.  Conder.  The  Survey  of 
Western  Palestine  :  Jerusalem.  4to,  pp. 
vii  and  542,  with  10  plates  and  many 
illustrations. 

Palestine  Exploration  Fund,  London, 

1884. 
See  pp.  38-40,  42,  66-69,  and  80-84. 

Watson,  Sir  C.  M.  The  Story  of  Jeru- 
salem. Illustrated  by  Genevieve  Watson. 
i2mo,  pp.  XX  and  339,  with  44  illustra- 
tions and  a  folding  plan  of  the  city. 

Dent,  London  ;    Button,  New  York, 

1912. 

One  of  the  Mtdiaval  Towns  Series- 
Muhammadan  period,  pp.  1313. 

Wild.  Die  Omar-Moschee  in  Jerusalem. 
Allgemeine  Bauzettung,  Jahrg.  xix,  pp. 
1-2,  with  I  plate  (in  folio  volume).      1854. 

Williams,  Robert.  Crosses  on  the 
Mosque  of  the  Dome  of  the  Rock,  Jerusa- 
lem. Palestine  Exploration  Fund,  Q.  St., 
pp.  178-183,  with  ID  illustrations.     1913. 

Wilson,  Capt.  Charles  W.  Ordnance 
Survey  of  Jerusalem.  Made  with  the 
sanction  of  the  Rt.  Hon.  Earl  de  Grey 
and  Ripon,  Secretary  of  State  for  War,  by 
Capt.  Charles  W.  Wilson,  under  the  direc- 
tion of  Colonel  Sir  Henry  James.  Folio, 
3  vols.:  text  pp.  iii,  90,  and  [26],  with 
30  plates  ;  "  Portfolio  of  Plans,"  with  14 
*  I  have  not  seen  this  memoir. 


plates  ;    "  Volume  of  Photographs,"  pp. 
ii,  with  76  photographs  on  43  plates. 

Published  by  Authority  of  the  Lords 

Commissioners  of  Her  Majesty's 

Treasury,  1865. 

IV.     FOR  QUSAIR  'AMR A   ONLY 
Becker,     C.    H.      Das    Wiener    Qusair 
'Amra-Werk.     Zeitschrijt  jiir  Assyriologie, 
Band  XX,  pp.  355-379.  1907. 

An  article  on  Musil's  Work  [q.v.]. 

Berchem,  Max  van.     Au  pays  de  Moab 

et    d'Edom.     Journal    des    Savants,    pp. 

293-309;    363-372;   401-41 1.  1909. 

Chiefly  on  Qusair  'Amra  and  its  date.  Also 
on  the  date  of  Mshatta.  Written  as  an  article 
on  MusiVs^Arabia  Pelraa  [q.v.],  and  Kuseir 
'Antra  [q.v.]. 

Herzfeld,  E.  'Amra  (Kusair  'Amra,  the 
little  castle  of  'Amra).  Article  in  the 
Encyclopaedia  of  Islam,  vol.  i,  pp.  336-339. 

1910. 

Hurgronje,  C.  Snouck.  Kusejr  'Am- 
ra und  das  Bilderverbot.  Zeitschr.  d. 
Deutschen  niorgenldndischen  Gesellschaft, 
Band  Ixi,  pp.  186-191.  1907. 

Janssen  and  Savignac.  Les  Chateaux 
arabes  de  Qeseir  'Amra,  Haraneh  et 
Tuba.  Large  8vo,  pp.  [i]  and  135,  with 
21  illustrations  in  the  text,  and  58  plates 
in  separate  cover. 

Geuthner,  Paris,  1922. 
Mission  archiologique  en  Arabie,  iii. 

*Karabacek,  Josef,  von.  tJber  die 
Affindung  eines  Khalifenschlosses  in  der 
nord-arabischen  Wiiste.  Neue  Freie 
Presse,  No.  13,563. 

Wien,  1902. 

* .     Uber    die    Affindung    eines 

Chalifenschlosses  in  der  nordarabischen 
Wiiste.  Almanack  der  Kaiserl.  Akad.  d. 
Wissenschajt,  Iii,  pp.  341  ff. 

Vienna,  1903. 
*  Not  seen. 

91 


MOSLEM   ARCHITECTURE   IN   PALESTINE 


Migeon,  Gaston.  Qesejir  Amra.     Revue 
Biblique,  nouvelle  serie,  tome  xl,  pp.  392- 
401,  with  I  double  plate   and  7  illustra- 
tions. 1914- 
A  short  survey  of  research  on  this  subject, 
accompanied   by   photographs   of   the   frescoes, 
taken  by  MM.  Janssen  and  Savignac  for  a  work 
not  yet  published. 

Moritz,  Dr.  B.  Ausfliige  in  der  Arabia 
Petrxa.  Melanges  de  la  Faculte  Orientale, 
Beyrouth,  tome  iii,  pp.  387-436,  with  7 
plates.  1908. 

Kusejr  'Amra,  pp.  416-433.  Also  Qasr 
Kharaneh. 

Musil,  Alois.  Kusejr  'amra  und  andere 
Schlosser  ostlich  von  Moab.  Topogra- 
phischer  Reisebericht.  I.  Theil.  Sit- 
xungsber.  der  philos.-hist.  Classe  der  k. 
Akademie  der  Wissenschaften,  Band  cxliv, 
Abh.  vii,  pp.  51,  with  18  plates. 

Wien,  1 90 1. 

.     Do.     Separat    abdruck.    Svo, 

pp.  51,  with  18  plates. 

Gerold's  Sohn,  Wien,  1902. 

Reviews :  Clermont-Ganneau,  Journal  dcs 
Savants,  1902,  pp.  281-284  ;  R-  Briinnow, 
Vienna  Oriental  Journal,  vol.  xxiv,  pp.  268-296. 

.     Kusejr  'Amra.     Folio,  2  vols., 

pp.  X  and  238,  with  145  illustrations  and 
large  folding  map  ;  p.  [i]  and  41  coloured 
or  tinted  plates  (18  double). 

K.  K.  Hof-und  Staatsdruckerei,  Wien, 

1907. 

Kaiserliche  Akademie  der  W  issenschaften, 
Wien. 

Contents :  Kusejr  'Amra.  Von  Alois  Musil. 
Architektonische  Beschaffenheit  des  Baues. 
Von  Max  Kropf.  Die  Aufnahme  der  Malereien. 
Von  .\.  L.  Mielich.  Die  chemische  Analyse  der 
Farben.  Von  J.  Pollak  und  F.  Wenzel.  Der 
Stil  der  Malereien.  Von  Franz  Wiekhoff. 
Erklarung  der  Tafeln.  Von  Franz  Wiekhoff. 
Datierung  und  Bestimmung  des  Baues.  Von 
Josef  von  Karabacek. 

See  Noldeke,  Zeitsch.  der  deutschen  morgen- 
landischen  Gesellschalt,  Ixi,  pp.  222-233,  for  a 
most  important  review  of  this  work,  in  which  he 
disputes  Karabacek's  dating  and  gives  the  now 
universally  accepted  interpretation  of  the 
inscriptions. 

.     Neues     aus    Arabia     Petraea. 

Vienna  Oriental  Journal,  vol.  xxiv,  pp. 
51-61,  with  I  illustration.  1910. 

An  article  on  Moritz's  Ausfliige  in  der  Arabia 
Petraa  [q.v.]. 

92 


Strzygowski,  Jose!.     Amraals  Bauwerk. 

Zeitsckr.     /.     Geschichte    der     Architectur, 
Jahrg.  i,  pp.  57-64,  with  3  illustrations. 

1907. 

.     Amra    und    seine    Malereien. 


Zeitschr.  jiir  bildende  Kunst,  neue  Folge, 
Band  xviii,  pp.  213-218,  with  6  illustra- 
tions. 1907- 

-.   Der  grosse  hellenistische  Kunst- 


kreis   im   Innern   Asiens.     Zeitschrijt    jiir 

Assyriologie,     Band    xxvii,    pp.    139-146, 

with  I  plate.  191 2. 

Discusses  also  the  wall  paintings  of  Qusair 
'Amra. 


V.    FOR  THE  PALACE  OF  MSHATTA 
ONLY 

Bell,  Miss  G.  L.  Palace  and  Mosque  at 
Ukhaidir.     410. 

Clarendon  Press,  Oxford,  1914. 

See  pp.  1 17-118, 120,  and  plate  81  for  Mshatti, 
which  the  authoress  is  inclined  to  attribute  to 
Yazid  II  (d.  a.d.  724). 

Berchem,  Max  van.    Mechatta.   Journal 

des  Savants,  pp.  472-477.  1905. 

An  article  on  Schulz  and  Strzygowski's 
Mschatta  [q.v.]. 

Bliss,  Frederick  Jones,  PI1.D.  Narra- 
tive of  an  Expedition  to  Moab  and  Gilead 
in  March,  1895.  Palestine  Exploration 
Fund,  0.  St.,  pp.  203-235,  with  16  illus- 
trations and  a  map.  1895. 

Mshatta,  pp.  229-234,  with  2  plans  and  3 
illustrations. 

Briinnow,  Prof.  R.  Reisebericht :  I, 
Von  Jerusalem  bis  Madeba;  II,  Meschetta  ; 
III,  'Amman — Jerusalem — Dscholan  ;  IV, 
Dscholan  und  Hauran.  Mitth.  und  Nachr. 
des  Deutschen  Palaestina-Vereins,  Jahrg.  i, 
pp.  65-73,  with  7  illustrations,  pp.  81-88, 
with  6  illustrations  ;  ii,  pp.  1-5,  with  5 
illustrations,  pp.  17-24,  with  5  illustra- 
tions. 1 895-1 896. 

Mshatta,  i,  pp.  8i-83,  with  6  illustrations. 


MOSLEM   ARCHITECTURE   IN   PALESTINE 


Briinnow,  Prof.  R.     Zur  neuesten  Ent- 

wickelung    der     Meschetta-Frage.       Zeit- 

schrijt  fiir  Assyriologie,   Band  xxvii,   pp. 

129-138.  1912. 

Assigns  it  to  the  sixth  century. 

Diehl,  Charles.     Manuel  d'art  byzantin. 

8vo,  pp.  xi  and  837,  with  420  illustrations. 

Picard,  Paris,  1910. 

See  pp.  45-49  and  fig.  17,  for  the  Palace  of 
Mshatta,  which  the  author  believes  to  be  fourth 
or  fifth  century. 

Dieulafoy,  Marcel.  L'Art  antique  de 
la  Perse :  Achemenides,  Parthes,  Sassa- 
nides.     Sm.  folio,  in  5  parts. 

Morel,  Paris,  1884,  etc. 

See  Vnie  partie,  pp.  88-95  and  figs.  63-68. 
Suggests  that  it  was  commenced  c.  a.d.  612. 

Dussaud,  Bene.  Les  Arabes  en  Syrie 
avant  I'lslam.  Avec  32  figures.  8vo,  pp. 
i  and  178. 

Leroux,  Paris,  1907. 

See  pp.  40-56  and  fig.  12  for  the  date  of 
Mshatta,  which  the  author  considers  to  be  pre- 
Islamic. 

Harvey,  W.,  W.  R.  Lethaby,  0.  M. 
Dalton,  H.  A.  A.  Cruso,  and  A.  C.  Head- 
lam.  The  Church  of  the  Nativity  at 
Bethlehem.  Sm.  folio,  pp.  xi  and  76, 
with  13  plates  (2  coloured),  and  30  illus- 
trations. 

Batsford,  London,  1910. 

See  pp.  29-30  for  remarks  on  Mshatta  by 
Prof.  W.  R.  Lethaby,  who  places  it  in  the  sixth 
century. 

Herzfeld,  Ernst.  Die  Genesis  der 
islamschen  Kunst  und  das  Mshatta-Pro- 
blem.  Der  Islam,  Band  i,  pp.  I'j-G'^, 
with  4  plates  and  19  figures  ;  pp.  105-144, 
with  I  folding  plate  and  4  figures.        1910. 

See  pp.  105-144.  He  comes  to  the  conclusion 
that  it  was  built  either  by  Yazid  II  (720-724),  or 
Walid  II  (743-744),  probably  the  former. 

Hill,  Gray.  Mashita.  Palestine  Ex- 
ploration Fund,  Q.  St.,  pp.  173-174.     1890. 

Short  note  on  visit. 

Lammens,  H.  Les  ruines  d'al-Mochatta 
[Mshatta].     Al-Machriq.    P'®    annee,    pp. 


481-487,   with   2   illustrations  ;    pp.   630- 
637,  with  2  illustrations.     [In  Arabic] 

1898. 

Lammens,  H.  La  hadia  et  la  hira  sous 
les  Omaiyades.  Al-Machriq.  xi"  annee, 
PP-  7^5-773-     [In  Arabic]  1908. 

La  Badia  et  la  Hira  sous  les 


Omaiyades.     Un  mot  a  propos  de  Msatta. 

Melanges  de  la  Faculte  Orieniale,  Beyrouth, 

tome  iv,  pp.  91-112,  with  2  plates.      1910. 

Plate  ii  shows  entrance  and  interior  of  Qasr 
Kharaneh. 

Resume  in  al-Machriq,  1908. 

Merrill,  Selah.  East  of  the  Jordan : 
a  record  of  travel  and  observation  in  the 
countries  of  Moab,  Gilead,  and  Bashan. 
70  illustrations  and  a  map.  8vo,  pp.  xv 
and  549. 

Bentley,  London,  1881. 

For  Mshatta  see  pp.  256-263,  with  4  illus- 
trations. 

Rawlinson,  George.  The  Seventh  Great 
Oriental  Monarchy,  or  the  geography, 
history,  and  antiquities  of  the  Sassanian, 
or  New  Persian  Empire.  8vo,  pp.  xxi 
and  691,  with  20  plates  (i  coloured)  and 
56  illustrations. 

Longmans,   Green   and  Co.,  London, 
1876. 

See  pp.  594-599,  plate  10,  and  figs.  62-64,  for 
an  account  of  Mshatta,  based  on  Tristram  and 
Fergusson.  The  author  places  it  between  a.d. 
614  and  627. 

R[einach],  S.  La  date  de  la  fagade  de 
M'schatta.  Revue  archeologique,  iv*  serie, 
tome  vii,  p.  485.  1906. 

Saladin,  H.  Le  palais  de  Machitta 
(Palestine).  Rapport  de  M.  Saladin.  Bulle- 
tin archeologique,  pp.  409-414,  with 
3  plates.  1904. 

Schulz  and  Strzygowski.  Mschatta. 
Bericht  iiber  die  Aufnahme  der  Ruine 
von  Bruno  Schulz  und  kunstwissenschaft- 
liche  Untersuchung  von  Josef  Strzygowski. 
Jahrbuch  der    Kgl.    Preuss.    Kunstsamm- 

93 


MOSLEM   ARCHITECTURE   IN   PALESTINE 


lungen,   Bd.   xxv,   pp.    205-373,   with    12 
plates  (some  double)  and  1 19  illustrations. 

1904. 

S^journ^,  Paul  M.  [Plan  et  monuments 
de  Mechatta.]  Revue  Biblique,  \f  annee, 
"  Chronique,"  pp.  131-134,  with  4  figures. 

1893. 

Tristram,  H.  B.  The  Land  of  Moab. 
Travels  and  discoveries  on  the  east  side 
of  the  Dead  Sea  and  the  Jordan.  With 
a  chapter  on  the  Persian  palace  of  Mashita 
by  Jas.  Fergusson,  F.R.S.  With  map : 
and   illustrations   by   C.   L.    Buxton   and 


R.    C.    Johnson.     8vo,   pp.   xvi  and  408, 
with  I  plate  and  41  illustrations. 

Murray,  London,  1873. 

See  pp.  195-216  for  Tristram's  account,  and 
pp.  367-385  for  Fergusson's  essay.  He  comes  to 
the  conclusion  that  it  was  built  by  Chosroes  II 
in  A.D.  614. 

See  also  above  :  Fergusson,  History  (3rd  ed.), 
i,  p.  407,  and  figs.  470-471  ;  Musil,  A  rabia  Petraa, 
i,  pp.  196-203  and  ."^bb.  83-92  ;  and  his  Kuitjr 
^  Amra,  pp.  14-15  and  figs.  6-10  ;  Brijnnow  and 
Domasrewski,  Die  Provincia  Arabia,  ii,  pp.  105- 
176,  figs.  686-754,  and  Tafeln  xlv-xlviii ;  also  pp. 
30S-311  (for  a  review  of  the  work  of  Schulz  and 
Strzygowski)  ;  van  Berchem,  in  the  /.  des 
Savants,  1909,  pp.  293-309  ;  Baedeker,  Syria, 
p.  149  ;  Diez,  Kunsi  der  islamischen  Vblker,  pp. 
29-33  ;  Taf.  i,  and  Abb.  31-33  (assigns  it  to 
Yazid  II,  A.D.  720-724)  ;  Herzfeld,  Mshattd, 
Hira  und  Bddiya,  pp.  84-105  and  133-146,  and 
Taf.  i  (assigns it  to  Walidll,  126  H.=  743-744)  ; 
and  Lammens,  La  Syrie,  i,  pp.  96-98  (assigns  it 
also  to  Walid  II,  a.d.  743-744). 


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Appendix  ii. 


LIST  OF  SUBSCRIPTIONS  AND  DONATIONS   RECEIVED 
BETWEEN  DECEMBER  30,  1921,  AND  JULY  i,  1922 


Vaughan  Morgan,  Esq. 
Miss  Mabel  C.  Hopkins 

F.  A,  White,  Esq 

Sir  Alfred  Mond  

Anglo-Egyptian  Bank 
Mr.  Garabed  Melkonian 
National  Bank  of  Egypt 

John  H.  Finley 

Max  Mouchly 

Credit  Lyonnais 
Mrs.  Tod  Osbourne 
Princess  Edmond  de  Polignac 

Sir  Hugh  Bell 

The  Khangi  Karbari  of  Baroda 
Mrs.  Clowes 
Wolf  Papenheim 
Herbert  Krustal 
Banco  di  Roma 
Anonymous  (per  H.  E.) 
Herbert  Bentwich 

J.  A.  de  Rothschild      

H.  C.  Luke,  Esq.         

Anglo-Palestine  Bank 

Arthur  Franklin,  Esq 

Hon.  Stanley  Fisher     

V.  Harari  Pasha 

Baron  Felix  de  Menasce 


Carried  forward 


96 


1.94a 

480 

5.09a 

24.25a 

1 00.00a 

100. oca 

97.50a 

5.00a 
lo.ooa 

1.94a 
29.09a 

9-540 
25.00a 

9-540 

5.00a 

5.00a 

25.00a 

50.00a 

2.046 

48.75a 

1. 00a 

25.00a 

29.10a 

1. 000 

25.00a 

25.00a 

674.696 


Brought  forward   ... 
Mr.  Justice  Isaac  A.  Isaac 
Frederic  Wenham  Morton  & 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  H.  B.  Abdy 
Sir  Stuart  Samuel,  Bart. 
Imperial  Ottoman  Bank 
Prof.  Michael  E.  Sadler 
Miss  Sampter    ... 
Prof.  Garstang,  British  School 

N.  Nahoum        

N.  Nahoum 

S.  Goldstein 

S.  Goldstein 

J,  Eisenberg 

J.  B.  Barron,  Esq. 

H.E.  Sir  Herbert  Samuel 

Sir  Thos.  Hay  craft 

Lionel  Cust,  Esq. 

G.  Antonius         

Mr.  Henry  Friend 
H.E.  the  Latin  Patriarch 
Mrs.  Clowes 
E.  T.  Richmond,  Esq 
Dr.  Reynolds    ... 
Arthur  E.  Franklin,  Esq. 
Nevill  Forbes,  Esq. 

Total 


Co 


of  Archsolo 


gy 


APPENDIX  II 

674.696 

24.250 

5.000 

4.805 

30.000 

50.000 

1. 000 

5.000 

30.000 

200.000 

15.000 

50.000 

5.000 

3.000 

5.500 

20.000 

5.000 

4.850 

2.050 

5.000 

5.000 

14.550 

2.047 

5.000 

50.000 

2.000 

1,218.748 


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98 


Appendix  IV. 

THE   PRO-JERUSALEM   SOCIETY 

List  of  Subscribers 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  B.  Abdy 

The  Reverend  Pere  Abel,  O.P. 

The  American  Colony  Stores 

Mr.  Solomon  Angel 

The  Right  Reverend  the  Anglican  Bishop  in  Jerusalem 

The  Anglo-American  Society 

The  Anglo-Egyptian  Bank 

The  Anglo-Palestine  Bank. 

Department  of  Antiquities,  Palestine 

Mr.  G.  Antonius 

His  Beatitude  the  Armenian  Patriarch  of  Jerusalem 

Mr.  C.  R.  Ashbee 

Mr.  Adam  Atkinson 

The  late  Sir  Abbas  EfF.  Abd-el-Baha 

Mr.  Barluzzi 

Mr.  J.  B.  Barron 

Miss  Edith  Beach 

Sir  Hugh  Bell 

Messrs.  Bentovia  and  Forer 

Mr.  Herbert  Bentwich 

Mr.  Norman  Bentwich 

The  late  Mr.  Eleazer  Ben  Yahuda 

Miss  A.  Berger 

Miss  S.  Berger 

Miss  Virginia  Blandy 

Messrs.  Blum  and  Levy 

His  Excellency  Boghos  Pasha  Nubar 

His  Eminence  Cardinal  Bourne 

Lord  Brownlow 

Mr.  John  Bruce 

Messrs.  Btesh  Brothers 

Messrs.  Buckler 

Mr.  Alfred  Buxton 

99 


LIST    OF    SUBSCRIBERS 

Mr.  Richard  Cadbury 

The  Cairo  Syrian  Committee 

Miss  Carey-Thomas 

Mrs,  Andrew  Carnegie 

The  Reverend  Harris  Cohen 

Mr.  Isaac  Cohen 

Sir  H.  Cohen 

The  Council  of  Jerusalem  Jews 

The  Council  of  Sephardic  Jews 

The  Credit  Lyonnais 

Mr.  A.  Creswell 

Mr.  L.  G.  A.  Cust 

The  Very  Reverend  Custodian  of  the  Holy  Land 

Mr.  Denham  (for  Messrs.  Norton  and  Co.) 
The  Dominican  Convent  of  St.  Etienne 
Dr.  Drinker 

Dr.  Eder 

National  Bank  of  Egypt 

Mr.  Joseph  Eisenberg 

Mr.  Solomon  Feingold 
Mrs.  Joseph  Pels 
Mr,  Marshall  Field 
Mr.  John  H.  Finley 
The  Hon.  Stanley  Fisher 
Mr.  Bernard  Flexner 
Mr.  Nevill  Forbes 
Mr.  Arthur  Franklin 
Mr.  Henry  Friend 

Mrs.  J.  S.  Gardiner 
Professor  John  Garstang 
Judge  Gary 
Mrs.  W.  Gatling 
Professor  Patrick  Geddes 
Mr.  S.  Goldstein 

lOO 


LIST   OF    SUBSCRIBERS 

Mrs.  Gordon 
Mr.  Morris  Gray 
Mrs.  C.  A.  Grinnell 
Mr.  B.  Guini 

Capt.  Hamborough 

Mr.  Charles  Hamilton 

V.  Harari  Pasha,  C.M.G. 

Dr.  A.  C.  Harte 

Sir  Thomas  Haycraft 

Mr.  David  Hazan 

Mr.  F.  N.  Hoffstat 

Miss  Mabel  C.  Hopkins 

Rabbi  Horowitz 

Mrs.  Holman  Hunt 

Musa  Kazem  Pasha  al-Husseini,  C.B.E. 

Jerusalem  Municipality 
Justice  Isaac  A.  Isaac 

The  Khangi  Karbari  of  Baroda 

Mr.  H.  M.  Kalvaresky 

Mr.  Kenny  Leveck 

Lieut. -Commander  Kenworthy,  M.P. 

The  Kneseth  Israel  Central  Committee 

Mr.  Benjamin  Kokia 

Mr.  Herbert  Krustal 

Rabbi  I.  Hacohen  Kuk 

Miss  Landau 

Miss  Lapin 

Mr.  Nathan  Laski 

Mr.  L.  A.  Lawrence 

His  Beatitude  the  Latin  Patriarch  of  Jerusalem 

The  late  Right  Hon.  Andrew  Bonar  Law 

Lord  Lee  of  Fareham 

Mr.  F.  Levaux 

Mr.  Little 

The  Right  Hon.  David  Lloyd  George 

lor 


LIST    OF   SUBSCRIBERS 

Mr.  Joseph  Lorenzo 
Lady  Ludlow 
Mr.  H.  C.  Luke 

Capt.  Mackay 

Mr.  Macjames  Remie 

Messrs.  Marash  Brothers 

His  Worship  the  Mayor  of  Jerusalem 

Mrs.  Elizabeth  McQueen 

Mr.  Mellon,  U.S.A. 

Mr.  Garabed  Melkonian 

Baron  Felix  de  Menasce 

Mr.  Joseph  Meyuhas 

Viscount  Milner,  K.G.,  G.C.B. 

Sir  Alfred  Mond,  Bart. 

Mr.  John  Pierpont  Morgan 

Mr.  Vaughan  Morgan 

Messrs.  Frederick  Wendham  Morton  and  Co. 

Messrs.  Morum's  Oriental  Stores 

Mr.  Max  Mouchly 

His  Eminence  the  late  Grand  Mufti  of  Jerusalem 

Mr.  N.  Nahum 
Dr.  Faris  Nimr 
The  late  Viscount  Northcliffe 

His  Beatitude  the  Orthodox  Patriarch  of  Jerusalem 

Mrs.  Todd  Osborne 

The  Imperial  Ottoman  Bank 

Mr.  Harold  Pailet 

Miss  Palmer 

Mr.  Wolf  Papenheim 

Mr.  Hennay  J.  Paten 

Mr.  Lazarus  Paul 

The  Hon.  A.  and  Mrs.  Pelham 

Mr.  B.  W.  Peterson 

Mr.  de  Picciotto 

102 


LIST    OF   SUBSCRIBERS 


Princess  Edmond  de  Polignac 
Lieut. -Colonel  Popham 

Mr.  Reynolds 
Mr.  E.  T.  Richmond 
The  Banco  di  Roma 
Mr.  J.  A.  de  Rothschild 
Mr.  P.  Rutenberg 

Sir  Michael  Sadler 

Mr.  D.  Salameh 

His  Excellency  Sir  Herbert  Samuel,  P.C.,  G.C.B. 

Sir  Stuart  Samuel,  Bart. 

Mr.  Simon  Sidnawy 

Mr.  Mortimer  Schiff 

51st  Sikhs  Regiment 

Mr.  Logan  Pearsall  Smith 

Messrs.  Smouha  and  Company 

Mr.  Jacob  SpafFord 

Mr.  F.  C.  O.  Speyer 

Lady  Storrs 

Sir  Ronald  Storrs,  C.M.G.,  C.B.E. 

Lieut.-Colonel  Waters  Taylor,  C.B.E. 
Mrs.  I.  Tucker  Burr 

Mr.  Haim  Valero 

The  Reverend  Pere  Vincent,  O.P. 

Mr.  L.  A.  Van  Vriesland 

Canon  Stacey  Waddy 
Mr.  Felix  Warburg 
Mr.  Waterman 
Mr.  F.  A.  White 
Mr.  John  Whiting 

Mr.  David  Yellin 

Haj  Yusef  Wafa  al-Dajani 

Sir  Basil  Zaharoff,  G.C.B. 

The  Zionist  Executive  in  Palestine 


103 


Index 


Unless  otherwise  specified  in  the  text,  the  mediaeval  names  on  Pere  Abel's  plan,  p.  32, 
the  names  in  Mr.  Creswell's  Bibliography,  pp.  69-94,  and  the  names  of  the  Members 
and  Subscribers  to  the  Pro-Jerusalem  Society  shown  at  the  close  of  this  volume  are  not 
given  in  this  Index. 


Abbott 

Abdul  Hamid 

Abel  (Pere),  2,   14,  32,  33 

Abraham  (Chapel  of) 

Absalom     . . 

Acre 

Agrippa's  Way 

Ain  Karem 

Aleppo 

Allenby 

Amaury  I  . . 

Amos 

Anastasia  (Street  of) 

Anastasis  (Chapel  of  the) 

Anatolia     . . 

Antimus  Porah 

Antiochus  . . 

Antiquities  (Department 

Antonia 

Antonius  (G). 

Aqsa  Mosque 

Ard  es  SUlam 

Arman  (Haret  al) 

Asali 

Ashbee  (C.  R.) 

Augustinian  Canons 

Azarie 


4o>  46,  47i 


of) 


VI 


3, 


26, 


60, 


B 


Bab  Hetta  (Haret) 
Baldwin  I  . . 
Baron  (Pierre) 
Barracks    . . 
Baruchoff  . . 
Batato  (Shukri) 
Battikha  ('Akabat  al) 
Baucayre    . . 

Q 


PAGE 

••     53 
vi 

48,  52 

..     56 

..     43 

..     48 

••     27 

••  55 
..     27 

••  37 
••  27 
..     38 

••  47 
..  58 
64,67 
..  64 
I.  7>9 
••  17 
20,  37 
..  12 
..  65 
36,  37 
..  27 
63,67 
..  48 
16,  17 


•  27 
27.44 
36 
6 

23 

29 
27 

35 


Bellum  Quadrum . . 

Ben  Yehuda 

Benton  Fletcher    . . 

Bertrandon  de  la  Brocquiere 

Beth  Hakerem.     See  Boneh  Bayit. 

Bethlehem..  ..  ..  42,53, 

Bezetha 

Bibliography  of  Moslem  Architecture. 

Blandy  (Miss) 

Boneh  Bayit 

Bufierie 

Bulfarage  . . 

Buraq  (Hosh  al)    . . 

By-laws  (Municipal) 


PAGE 

••     35 
..     27 

12,  30 
49>  51 

62,  65 

13,35 
69 
..  29 
64,67 
..  38 
,.     36 

•     ^l 
vi 


Caenaculum 
Cahors  (Etienne  de) 
Calvary 

Capons  (Richard) 
Casa  Nova  Lane 
Casola  (Pietro) 
Ceramics     . . 
"  Change  Latin  " 
"  Change  Syrien  " 
Chapel  of  Derision 
Chorus  Dominorum 
Christ 

Christian  Street     . . 
Citadel  (Gardens)  . . 
„       of  Jerusalem 
Cceur  de  Lion 
Constantine  Monomachus 
Constantine's  Way 
Corn  Market 
Creswell  (K.  A.  C.) 
Crusades     . . 


41,  42,  52 
..  36 
42,  44,  49,  50,  52,  53 
..  36 
..  27 
..  50 
vii,  3,  29,  57,  62 
..  38 
..  38 
..  50 

49,52 
41,  42,  44 

27,47 

,6,  7,9,  II,  12,  26 

6,  20,  95,  98 

..  28 

35,47 

••  27 

••  37 

3,69 

33,  47,  48 


INDEX 


Dair  al  'Adas  (Sekket) 
„     al  Ifranj  (Haret) 
„     Jasin .  . 
„     al  Rum  (Haret) 
„     al  Surian  (Tariq) 

Damascus  Gate     . . 

David 

„       (Street)       . . 
,,       (Tower  of).. 

Dome  of  the  Rock 

„  .  (Til. 
Dositheus  I  (Patriarch) 
Dowling 


PAGE 

..     27 

..     26 

16,  17 

..     26 

••     27 
13,  24,  25,  26,  34 

6,  34.  43 

26,  35,  36 

6,9.  13.34,  36,  38 

3,  29.  59.  62 

vii,  3,  20,  29,  62 

••54 
•  •     54 


Echmiadzin  Chapel 
Education  (Department  of) 


••     57 
29,  30 


Felix  Faber 

. 

••     49 

Finch  (Sir  John)   . . 

. 

••     53 

Fosse 

7,21 

Francesco  Suriano 

..     50 

Franciscans 

34, 

41. 

50,  S3 

Frederick  II 

..     48 

Funda  Neapolitana 

. 

..     38 

Garden  Cities 

Gaza 

Geddes  (Prof.)       . . 

George  V  Avenue. . 

Germans  (Street  of) 

Gethsemane 

Godfrey  de  Bouillon 

Golbites 

Golgotha    . . 

Golti 

Golubovich 

Government  House 

Governor  of  Jerusalem 

106 


..     64 

27,  29 

15,  i6 

..     27 

••     37 
35.43 

27.  34.  44 
..     50 

..  56 
••  52 
50.53 
30,  60 
..     IS 


PAGE 

Governorate  (Jerusalem)  . .  24,  25 

Guillaume  Angevin  . .  . .  . .     36 

Guini  . .         . .         . .         . .         . .     16 


H 

Haddadin  (Haret  al)        27 

Hakim  (bi-amr  Illah)       . .  . .  .  .     46 

Hamborough         . .  . .  . .  ■  •     25 

Haram  (al  Sarif)   . .  . .  . .  •  •     36 

Hebron       . .  . .  . .  vii,  27,  29,  61,  62 

Herbs  (Street  of) 37 

Herod         . .  . .  . .  . .  vii,  27 

„        (Gate  of) 13,27 

Hezekiah    . .  . .  . .  . .  . .     27 

High  Commissioner  of  Palestine      16,  26,  30, 

60,  62 
Hippicus  Tower    . .  .  .    6,  7,  8,  9,  10,  13 

Holliday  (A.  C.) vi 

Holy  Cross  (Convent  of) . .  . .  . .     55 

Holy  Ghost  (Chapel  of)   . .  •  •    41,  42,  43 

Holy  Sepulchre  (Church  of)         2,  36,  37,  38, 

39,  42.  43,  44,  46,  47,  48,  49,  50,  52.  53, 

54.  55,  56,  57 
Hospital  of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem  . .  39 
Hospitallers  . .  . .  . .  3^,  38 


Ibn  Batuta  27 

Invention  of  the  Cross  (Chapel  of  the) . .     54 
Isaiah         . .  . .  . .  . .  •  •     27 

Isawiye       . .  . .  . .  . .  16,  17 


J 

Jaffa  27,  67 

„      Gate. .        6,  7,  9,  13,  21,  22,  27,  34,  65 
Jamal  Pasha         . .  . .  . .  . .     20 

Janjirieh    . .  . .  . .  . .  64,  66 

Jeffery        . .  . .  . .  . .  . .     48 

Jehoshaphat  . .  . .   35,  37,  38,  42,  43 

Jeremiah    . .  . .  . .  . .  •  •     27 

Jericho       . .  . .  . .  . .  •  •     27 


INDEX 


Jerusalem  looms  . . 

Jewry         

Josephus    . . 

Judas  (Street  of  the  Arch  of) 

Julian 


K 


Kauffmann 
Khan  ez-Zeit 
Khaneqah  . . 
Kidron 
Kutahia 


PAGE 

29,  61 

36,38 
..     27 

••     37 
••     27 


3,  64,  66 

■■     37 
..     26 

..     42 

57,  59>  62 


Lachevere  (Marie) 

.          ..     36 

Lahamin  (Suq  al) . . 

..     26 

Laqlaq  (Tariq) 

..     27 

Latin  Patriarchate 

..      13 

„      (Tariq  al)    . . 

..     27 

Lauremer   . . 

••     37 

Lebanon     . . 

••     39 

Levant  Company  . . 

•■     55 

Lifta           

16,  17 

Lisbonne  (Girard  de) 

.         ..     38 

(Jean  du) 

.         ..     36 

Lissbonette  (Girard  de)   . 

••     37 

Litart         

.         ..     36 

Ludolf  of  Sudheim 

48,  49 

Luke  (H.  C.) 

viii,  2,  46,  54 

M 


Maccabees . . 

..     27 

McLean 

..      16 

Mahafe 

.          ..     36 

Mahanna  Yuda     . . 

. .      21 

Mahdi(Al)            

..     28 

Maidan  (Haret  al) 

..     27 

Maimonides 

..     27 

Malabar  (Church  of) 

..     52 

Malcuisinat 

37,  38 

Malik  (Al) 

..     28 

Mamilla 
Mamun  (Al) 
Mansur  (Al) 
Mar  Elias    . . 
Marechal  (rue  du) 
Martin  Karaon 
Martyrium.. 
Mary  (Princess)     . . 
Marzban     . . 
Maulawiyeh  (Tariq  al) 
Maundeville  (Sir  John) 
Maundrell  (H.)      . . 
Mayor  of  Jerusalem 
Mehmed  IV 
Mejdel 

Melek  al-Ashraf    . . 
Melisande  . . 
Melnikoff    .  . 
Mes  (Valley  of)      . . 
Missi  Yahudi 
Modestus  (Patriarch) 
Mogharbeh  (Bab) . . 

„  (Haret  al) 

Mommert  (Dr.)      . . 
Moudjir  ed-Din     . . 
Mount  of  Olives    . . 
Mount  Sinai 
Mount  Sion    35,  36,  37, 
Mufti  (Grand) 
Municipality  of  Jerusalem 
Murad  IV  . . 
Muristan    . . 
Muscovia    . . 
Mutawakil 


N 

Nablus 

Nasara  (Haret  al) 
Nashashibi  (Ragib  Bey) 
Nativity  (Basilica  of) 
Nehemia     . . 
New  Gate  . . 
Newett  (Margaret) 
Nicephorus  (Patriarch) 
Nicodemus  (Patriarch) 


PAGE 

27,  64 
..28 
..28 
•  •  16,  17,  65 
••37 
.•38 

••47 
. .     29 

••37 
. .     27 

..     51 

•  •     55 
.  .    viii 

••53 

..29 

..  ..48 

27,38 

•  •     13 

22,  65 

..61 

..  ..     46 

••35 
..26 

..         ..56 

••37 

•  •     13 
..41 

39,  41,  42,  43,  50 

. .    viii 

I,  18 

••53 
26,  38 
. .     20 

..52 


25,27 
••  27 
..     14 

••  53 
••  27 
12,  26 
..  so 
..  46 
..     s6 

107 


INDEX 


Nikephoria 

Nointel  (Marquis  de) 

Nomico  (C.  A.) 


PAGE 
22 

•  53 

•  57 


O.E.T.A 

•      4>  15,  i6 

Ohanessian  (D.) 

..     29 
-  0 

Omar 

25 

Ordinance  (Antiquities)  . . 

2 

„          (Town  Planning) 

.         2,   IS,  20 

Palestine  Exploration 

Land  Development  Co. 
Pilgrim's  Text  Society 
Papadopoulos 
Patriarch    . .  •  •  •  •  3", 

„         (Bath  of) 
Porte  de  Belcayre 
Porte  de  Josaphat 
Porte  de  Mont-Syon 
Porte  d' Abraham 
Porte  du  Couvent  des  Serbes      . . 

Post  Office  Square 

Poterne  de  la  Tannerie    . . 

Poterne  St.  Ladre 

Poterne  St.  Madeleine     . . 

Prester  John 

Prison  of  Christ    . . 

Pro- Jerusalem  Society 


Prophets  (Street  of  the) 


I,  2,  5, 
21,  26, 


..       25 

..  64 

47,49 
••  53 
37,  51,  54 
••  39 
••  35 
■  ■  35 
•  ■  35 
••  34 
••  34 
. .     20 

35,  37 
■•  34 
••  34 
••  49 
•■  49 
12,  14,  15, 
59,  60,  62 
..     27 


Raimont  (Jean)    . . 

Ramleh 

Rampart  Walk     . . 

Rauwolflf  (Dr.  L.)  . . 

Ray  (John) 

Repos  (rue  du) 

Rhodes 

Ridge  Road  (Jerusalem) 
Rihan  (Sheikh)      . . 
Risheh  (Haret  al).. 
Robert  the  Hungarian 
Roger  the  Englishman 
Remain  du  Puy    . . 
Ruppin  (Dr.) 
Rustaveli   . . 


vii,  6,  12,  13, 


..  36 

..     SI 

25,33 

52,53 

..   52 

•  •     37 

••     43 

23,65 

..     27 

•  •     27 

••     39 

•  •     39 

•  •     37 

,  15,  64 

55 


Qalaun 

..     28 

Qaraim  (Haret  al) 

. .     27 

Qattanin  (Suq  al) 

27,  29 

Qiameh 

•  •     47 

Quaresmius 

•  •     34 

Quartier  du  Patriarche    . . 

••35 

108 

Saadieh 

Saafat 

St.  Abraham 

St.  Agnes    . . 

St.  Anastasia 

St.  Anne     . . 

St.  Chariton 

St.  Cosimus 

St.  Elias     . . 

St.  Francis . . 

St.  George 

St.  Gilles    . . 

St.  Helena 

St.  James   . . 

St.  John     . . 

St.  John  the  Baptist 

St.  Julian   . . 

St.  Lawrence 

St.  Lazare  . . 

St.  Louis    . . 

St.  Madeleine 

St.  Mark     . . 

St.  Martin  . . 

St.  Mary     36,  39, 41, 

St.  Michael 

St.  Pastor  . . 

St.  Paul      . . 


27 

16,17 

34,  56 

38 

37 

38 

39 

37 

38 

41,44 

27 

38 

•  •  51,54,55 
36,  39,  41,  43,  48,  57 
.  •  36,  37,  39,  41,  43 

•  •    27,48,58 

37 

41 

..         ..          34,38 
27 

34,35,39,53 

52 

36,  37 
42,43,44,47,48,49,51 

48 

39 

27 


INDEX 


St.  Peter 

St.  Sabas    . . 

St.  Stephen  ..28,  31,  35,  37, 

St.  Thomas 

Saladin 

Salante 

Salome 

Samuel  (Lady) 

„         (Sir  Herbert).     5^^  High 
missioner. 
Sanseverino  (Roberto  da) 
Santo  Brasca 
Schick  (Dr.) 
Selenfreund  (YudA) 
Selim  I 
Selseleh 

Sepulchre.     5^^  Holy  Sepulchre 
Seraglio  (the  old)  .  . 
Seyr  (Syrien) 
Sharaf  (Haret  al) . . 
Shop  signs 
Siloam 

Sitti  Mariam  (Bab) 
Soeurs  Reparatrices  (Convent  of) 
Solomon 

Spain  (Street  of)   . . 
Stone  of  Unction  . . 
Storrs  (Sir  Ronald) 
Suleiman  the  Magnificent 
Suriano 


PAGE 

••     43 

••     39 

38,  39>  41 

38,41.  SI 

28,48 

••  9 

..  58 

..  62 

Com- 

..  51 
..  SI 
..     56 

••  95 
27.52 
26,  39 


36 
36 
26 
vi 
42 
26,47 
.  12 
27,43 
36,  37 

44,50 
.    viii 

7,  27 
•     SI 


Tabitha  Cumi        . .  . .  . .  . .     67 

Talpioth 64 

Tamara  (Queen)    . .  . .  . .  . .     54 

Tancred 27,  39 

Tanners  (Street  of  the)    . .  . .  •  •     37 

Tariq  al  Alam.     See  Via  Dolorosa. 

Temple 37,38,53 

„        (Abbey  of)  36 

Textiles viii,  29 

Theodoric 39,  47,  48 


Theophanes  IH  (Patriarch)        . .  . .     53 

Tortuz  (Guillaume)  . .  . .  . .     36 

Town  Plan  (Jerusalem)    ..     2,  15,  17,  64,  6j 
Town  Planning  Commission   i,  13,  15,  16,21, 

64 
Tsagareli     . .         . .  . .  . .  . .     54 


Tudela  (Benjamin  of) 
Tujjar  (Suq  al) 
Turoz 
Tyropaeum 


Valero  (Haim) 
Van  Bruyn  (Cornelius) 
Via  Dolorosa 
Vincent  (Pere) 


34,  36 
..     26 

..     36 
..     26 


..    21,24,25 

••55 

27,  29,  37,  62 

46,  47,  48,  52 


W 

Wad  (Al) 

Walid  (Al)  

Weaving  (School  of).     5,?^  Textiles. 
Williams     . . 

Wright        

Wurzburg  (John  of) 


Yahia  Ibn  Sa'id 
Yahud  (Haret  al) 


Zahera  (Bab  al)     . . 
Zait  (Khan  al)       . . 
Zionism 
Zoning 

„       (Plan  of  Jerusalem) 
Zuallardo   . . 


26 
28 

54 
49 
36 


46 
27 


. .  27 
27.38 
..  30 
..  18 
..  18 
..     52 


109 


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