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Volume XXXII 



^£k_ 



NEW YORK, APRIL 5. 1899 



No. 14 



HH^RY W. PATTERSON 

At a recent meeting o! the 
Boston Jewelers* Club the 
members of that well-known 
organization elected to lead 
them through the ensuing 
year as president of the club 
a man whose name is a famil- 
iar one to members of the 
trade throughout the country. 
For two years he had served 
the club as vice-president, 
and his choice to the highest 
position in the gift of the club 
was a unanimous one. Henry 
W. Patterson, the new presid- 
ing officer of this exclusive 
Boston trade organization, is 
no stranger to the readers of 
The Review. The firm of 
Smith, Patterson & Co., of 
which he is a member, is 
known from one end of the 
country to the other, and is 
quite as familiar a business 
name in Canada as it is in the 
United States. The firm is 
one of Boston's most success- 
ful business houses, and to 
the energy and business abil- 
ity of the members of the 
company is due its present 
prominence in trade and busi- 
ness circles. 

Henry W. Patterson was 
born in Aylesford, N. S., in 




HENRY W. PATTERSON, 
President of the Boston Jewelers* Club 



DIAMONDS 



Wiu S. Hedges & Co. 



Diamonds and Precious Stones 



170 Droadwau, New York 

•7 Holborn Viaduct, London 



DIAMOND JCWCLRY 



the year 1846. Brought up 
on a farm, like so many of 
our clear-iheaded and solid 
New England business men, 
he received his earliest educa- 
tion at the schools of his na- 
tive town. Later, he attended 
the seminary at Grand Pre, 
or Acadia, a name that calls 
;to mind sweet memories as 
the scene of Longfellow's 
beautiful poem, Evangeline. 
Fiction and real life con- 
stantly tell us of the young 
Tnan who leaves the parental 
roof— the old homestead in 
the country — and sets forth to 
seek his fortune in the busy 
world, far removed from the 
quiet pastoral scenes of boy- 
hood days. This is exactly 
what young Patterson did. 
He was the son of a well-to- 
do farmer, but a farmer's life 
had no attractions for the 
youth, and he waived his 
right of inheritance to the 
old homestead and started out 
to seek his fortune in mer- 
cantile pursuits. In the au- 
tumn of 1868, at the age of 
twenty-two years, he came to 
Boston. Immediately upon 
arriving at the Hub he se- 
cured a position in a retail es- 
tablishment at the munificent 



MOUNT & WOODHULL 



FORMERLY WITH LATE FIRM OF 

RANDEL, BARfinORE k BILLINGS, 



DIAMONDS. 



omer Precious Stones, Pearls, etc 

naters of nne Dlamoixl Jewelru 

86 MAIDEN LANE 

(Soothwest comer NatHii StrteO 

JOHN c Momrr mrw VAPV 

ADDISON w. woomtnrx waw TVK& 



40X303 



For Table off Contonts and Indaz to Advortlaora mo pago 444* 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 5. 1899 



ESTABLISHED 1S40. 



Chester Billings & Son 

SioOMMrt U RANDEL, BAREMORE & BILUN6S 

IMPORTERS 0I^ 

DIAMONDS 

^^ii a^^l^ ^SiS^^^S^^ Oth«r Pr0elM« StMM ami PMrIa 

1866 HANDEL, BAREMORE A CO. 
1880 RANDEL, BAREMORE k BILLINGS. 



58 Naiiats Street, DIAMOND J^ 

29 Maiden Ltait, 22 Holbofn Viaduct, 



Hmw YomK. 



.!» JEWELRY 



J B. BOW DEN. 



M. L. BOWCEN. 



J. B. BOWDEN & CO. 

Makers of FINGER RINGS 

OF EVURY DESCRIPTION 

1 Maiden *i1ane. 

NEW YORK. 



• .Cor. BROADWAY. 



Fred- W- Lewis & Co. 

DIAMONDS, PEARLS 
RUBIES, EMERALDS 

No. 1 MAIDEN LANE 

Corner Broadway NEW YORK 



salary of six dollars a week. The spirit of progression that has 
overcome so many obstacles since that period spurred him on 
to better things. He was cut out for something higher than a 
clerk behind a counter, and several changes all in the line of 
progress and advancement, found him in the spring of 1871 with 
an offer of the management and a half interest in a fancy goods 
store at 1063 Washington street. This oflfer he accepted, and re- 
mained in the retail business for a period of seven years. 

In 1878 he sold out his interests in the business and took an 
office at 465 Washington street with Marcel N. Smith. Here he 
commenced as a manufacturers' agent and a wholesale dealer in 
jewelry and fancy goods. At that time he traveled with his own 
samples through the Dominion of Canada. Mr. Patterson, by 
close attention to business and a display of quiet energy and abil- 
ity, which are among his strongest characteristics, built up a 
large and successful business. At the end of five years, in 1883. 
he opened a Canadian office at 132 St. James street, Montreal. 
He remained in Canada, traveling a great deal of his time, until 
1885, when he joined hands with M. N. Smith, who at that time 
was also conducting a wholesale jewelry and fancy goods busi- 
ness. Both interests were then consolidated into one, and the 
firm of Smith & Patterson was formed, with headquarters at 46 
Summer street. The Canadian oflice remained at the same ad- 
dress. 

After the- consolidation the business grew in proportions, and 
additional space was found imperative. The firm moved to 44 



Summer street, occupying the first floor and basement. An- 
other floor was added two years later. The Canadian oflfice was 
equally expansive, and more space being needed the office was 
moved to larger and better equipped quarters at 207 St. James 
street, Montreal. On January 15, 1892, the firm moved to their 
present quarters at 52 Summer street. Carl D. Smith was ad- 
mitted to partnership in the company on January i, 1895. The 
present location of the firm is one of the finest sites in Boston. 
It is on Summer street, the great thoroughfare that leads to the 
largest railroad station in the world — the South Terminal Sta- 
tion. It is a corner location, affording an opportunity for a 
dozen great show windows. Of the interior of the store it is un- 
necessary to give an extended description. Suffice it to say that 
it is equipped with every convenience for the transaction of a 
great jewelry business. The stock is complete in every particu- 
lar, and embraces not only jewelry and kindred lines, but bicycles, 
in which Mr. Patterson is greatly interested. The wheels carried 
by Smith, Patterson & Co. as agents are the Keating, Atalanta, 
Lorain and Bostonian, the latter wheel being made especially for 
the firm. 

Personally, Mr. Patterson is very popular in the trade. In ad- 
dition to being an old and valued member of the Boston Jewel- 
ers' Club he is interested in many other social and business or- 
ganizations. For many years he has been an active member and 
worker in that military body famous the world over, the Ancient 
and Honorable Artillery Company. For the past eight years he 
has been a sergeant of the third company. He was appointed by 
the captain of the company to be a member of the Nineteen 
Hundred Committee, which has charge of the arrangements to 
receive and entertain the Honourable Artillery Company of Lon- 
don during its visit to Boston next spring. There is an organi- 
zation within the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company 
formed for purely social purposes and known as the Ten of Us 
Club. Of this organization of jolly good fellows Mr. Patterson 
is a member and one of the directors. He is also an old Mason 
and belongs to Boston Commandery, Knights Templar. He is 
a member of the Boston Art Club and other social organizations. 
For several years he has been a member on the standing com- 
mittee on Debts and Debtors of the Boston Merchants' Associa- 
tion, Boston's great trade organization. 

Mr. Patterson has a tall, well-knit and military figure, and is 
a man whose presence commands attention. In manner he is 
quiet and slow-spoken, thinking well before he speaks and choos- 
ing his words with care. He is rather modest and retiring than 
otherwise, but has pronounced views and speaks his mind when 
tlie occasion requires. 

PAOFIC AND ROCKY MOUNTAIN NEWS. 

PKOM OUR SPBCIAL COUtBSTONDBMTS. 

The newt :uid«r this headinc la f»oet?ed from thote Stataa bdrdartaic 00 
tlie Padflo and extendinc inland to the Rooky Monntaini. Tiade newe and 
ooireepondenoe from our readen la alwaya welcome and ahonld be teodved at 
thie olBce not later than Monday morning in each week» 
SBATTLB, WASH. 

Jos. Meyer, of Jos. Meyer & Bros., has returned from a busi- 
ness trip to Victoria and Vancouver, B. C. 

L. L. Barens, of Whatcom, has been here on business. 

Wm. Gratz, agent for the Symphonion Mfg. Co., of New 
York, was here this week. 

Jno. Jepson, of Riker Bros., Newark, N. J., was in town Sat- 
r.rday. * 

The people of Washington have recently collected $7,500 for 
tlie purpose of making a presentation of a silver table service to 
the cruiser Olympia. The designs, furnished by Schrieve & Co., 
of San Francisco, through their agents, Graham & Moore, were 
accepted. As symbolic of the victory at Manila the punch bowl, 
which is the center piece of the service, will be decorated with an 
upright figure of Liberty of silver after the famous design of 
Douglas Tilden, and arranged to stand upon the cover. The 
whole service will consist of thirty-three pieces. The decorations 
will consist of oak leaves and acorns and views of Washington 
scenes. The large tray will be engraved with the names of all 
those who took part in the battle. The service will cost $7,500. 



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April 5, 1899 



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TH]!: JEWELERS REVIEW 



423 



LSntered at the Post OflBce in the City of New York as second-glass matter.] 



THOMAS JACOB, Editor and Publisher. 



Address all communications to The Jewelers Review, 
170 AND 17a Broadway, Cor. Maiden Lane, New York. 



Vol. XXXII 



APRIL 5, 1899 



No. 14 



NOTICE 

In answcf to the many letten fccelved at this officer ^uid to save un- 
neccaafy cone^ondence and delay, we wish to state that this paper 
has no connection whatever with J* J* Fosferty or with Fogerty's 
Jewelers Directory. 



The Jewelers Review is issued regularly every week and will put forth 
every effort to furnish the best and latest news and information concerning 
jewelers, gold and silversmiths, horologists, opticians and allied industries. 
Persons interested in these trades will confer a great favor by sending us 
the news of their localities and their views respecting the manufacture or 
treatment of any articles in the above lines. It is absolutely necessary 
that the name and address of the writer should accompany each communi- 
cation, not necessarily for publication but as a guarantee of good faith. 

Correspondents asking questions requiring answers through the col- 
timns of the Jewelers Review will state the information desired plainly 
and in as few words as possible. All answers will be published as promptly 
as the nature of the enquiry and the pressure of business will permit. Read- 
ers need have no hesitancy in asking questions on any subject in which they 
are interested consistent with the nature of this publication. 



SUBSCRIPTION RATKS^ 

Two Dollars per annum in advance, One I>ol1ar for six months, postage 
prepaid to any point in the United States, Mexico or Canada. Single 
copies ten cents each. 

r erel ga Subscriptions.— To countries within the postal union, postage pre- 
paid. Three Dollars and Fifty Cents per annum in advance. 

Subscribers changing their address should state the old one as well as the 
new to insure proper delivery of the paper. 



' THE JEWELERS REVIEW ABROAD 

Copies of this i>aper can be found in Europe at Holbom Viaduct and the 
Royal Hotels, London. Herald office and hotels L'Athenee and Grand 
Terminus, Paris. The Amstel Hotel, Amsterdam, St. Antoine and the 
Continental Hotels, Antwerp. 



ADVERTISING RATES 

will be furnished on application. Under the new management 
the circulation of The Jewelers Review has steadily increased 
until it practically covers the entire jewelry and allied trades. 
Advertisers will find that there is no better medium to reach the 
trade than The Jewelers Review. 

Advertisements to insure insertion in the next issue should 
reach this office not later than Saturday. 

COMMUNICATIONS SOUCITBD 

Space will always be reserved in the Jewelers Review for news items of 
interest to the trade, such as changes in place of business, co-partnerships, 
dissolutions and the movements of traveling representatives and buyers. 

Jewelers contemplating a trip to New York can have their mail ad- 
dressed to this office, where it will be held until called for, or forwarded 
to any other address if desired. 



Diamonds 
and 

Dc '^eei 



The annual report of the Dc Beers Consoli- 
dated Mines, Ltd., for the year ending June 
30, 1898, has only iust been issued. Despite 
the comparative sticcess of smaller diamond 
mining concerns, and the fre(iiient, -and in 
some cases promising* reports of new "fields." Dc Beers still 
"rules the roost,'' and will in ail probability continue to do so for 
>car^. The policy of the coiupany is to buy up or obtain a con- 
trolling interest in any new ventures likely to aflfect the monop- 
oly; at the same time, by restricting the supply of diamonds, they 
keep prices up. With a sub.scribcd capital of nearly twenty mil- 
lion dollars, and debentures and reserve funds of twenty millions 
more,#the financial strengrh of the company is impregnable. One 
of the directors announced at a recent meeting that the company 
could produce ten tinus as many diamonds as at present. It is 
estimated that five million "loads" of ''blue" are in slight at De 
Beers and four millions at Kimberley, and these mines, there is 
no»doubt, will continue in the future, as in the past, to supply iUl 
the diamonds the world will take, even though^ the demand 
should materially increase from year to year. 



Patronizing 



Manufactures 



Kansas City is establishing an excellent pre- 
cedent for other enterprising manufacturing 
towns whose merchants and citizens generally 
are advocating the pa^^ronizing of home man- 
ufactured products. Kansas City has set aside 
one week for the exclusive exhibit of home manufactured products 
in the display windows of one hundred of the best merchants. 
During the week the city was decorated with flags and bunting in 
a general holiday attire, and the citizens and thousands of strang- 
ers paraded the sidewalks viewing the splendid object lesson of 
the resources of the manufacturers of Kansas City, most of them 
being filled with no small wonderment at the magnitude and va- 
riety of ho'me manufactured products. Few realize the extent of 
the manufacturing industry of their own city, and Kansas City is 
no exception to the rule. Such a strong and eflfective object les- 
son could be placed before the citizens of a large number of towns 
throughout the country. 

One of the noticeable features was the large percentage of the 
jewelry made in Kansas City. Some of the most artistically de- 
signed and skillfully carved products were the handiwork of local 
goldsmiths, and we understand that this show of home manu- 
factured goods has resulted in excellent business for the enter- 
prising firms in this Western city. 



Send us a postal card with your address and we will 
send you particulars of "^ the Special Premium Offer we 
are making. The Jewelers Review, 170 Broad way. 
New York. 



The clfctilation of THE JEWELERS REVIEW 

FOR ISSUE OF MARCH 29 was |0 006 COPIES. 

44 ♦< 44 44 22 ** 9,974 ** 

U U U 44 15 44 |0J052 ** 

u *4 4i it 3 u |Q^Q28 

U 44 44 44 ^ 44 1 0,040 ^ 

The average weekly circtdation durfog March was 

ForFebraary, XO^OSX "* 

Our post office and other receipfs are open to the inspectkm of 
those who desire to verify this stateihent* 



/ 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 5, 1899 




77l^ti^k Ai^^li^t*^ with a reputation to lose will 
WAIVn If Vlll^l 9 not risk it by selling gold 
cases with plated or stuffed crowns or centers. If you 
have not seen our Samples, send for selection or memo- 
randum packages. Sold direct to the retail trade. 

01. f . Doll % eo. 

9-19 maMw tMm, nm York 



CANADIAN NE^TS. 



PROM OUR 8PHCIAL CORRBSPONDBNTi. 



AVERBECK & AVERBECK 

Settled Ready for Business. 



NEW QUARTERS, 



\9 MAIDEN LANE, - - NEW YORK 



TELEPHONE, 2161 CORTLANOT. 



I"^ NORTHERN ILLINOIS COLLEGE 

: OF : 

OPHTHALMOLCXJY AND OTOLOGY, 

MASONIC TEMPLE, CHICAGO, 

Have issued an attractive Announcement with full description of Attend- 
ant. Poat-Qradoate, and Correspondent Conrses, which will be mailed on 
application. 

Yon can be^ln vour coarse at any time. Degrees conferred and Diplo- 
mas awarded. Address 

Q. W. McFATRICH. M.D., Seoaetary, 

1015 MASONIC TEMPLE, CHICAQO 




.YOUR CYCS 




CURES Aa EYE DISEASES 
INFLAnEO EYEa&CAL£8 ON LI01 

GRANULATION ETC 
By mall, 50 cents. 



YOUR 

Optical Department 

is not complete without 

^ MURINE. %«» 

Send tor circulars and tes- 
timonials. Your Jobber has 
Murine, if not, order direct. 

$S.SO p«r Doi«n. 
AN Up-to-date Remedy. 
MURINE CO,, MmmIc Tenplo, Chicago. 




We Can Teach You... 

personally or by correspondence, how 
to correct all defects of vision by 
means of the Trial Lenses and Test 
Cards, without usinj^ mydriatics, in- 
struments, etc. This is the simplest and most satisfactory method 
of Refraction. 

JOHN S. OWEN, M.a, Principal 

DETROIT OPTICAL INSTITUTE, 

23 E. ADAMS AVENUE, DETROIT, MICH. 





|. A r ' MPLE OF WORK DONE ON 




\ Tht r ^rfngle EngraYing Machine 


^iu^i 


W ^ND FOR BOOKLET, 




r EATln^ / :R CO., ill Hassan St., Hew York. 



TORONTO 

R. G. Ellis, of P. W. Ellis & Co., is at Old Point Comfort en- 
joying a well earned rest. 

P. W. Ellis & Co.'s Twentieth Century monthly is now ready 
for distribution, and is a unique way of advertising up to date 
goods. 

Ambrose Kent, senior member of Ambrose Kent & Sons, sails 
from New York, April 8, on a purchasing trip to the European 
market. 

The Toronto Council have decided to call new tenders for 
the city hall tower clock. Over one year ago they invited ten- 
ders, which were received, opened and the merits of the dif- 
ferent systems discussed, and this innovation is not received with 
favor by the parties who competed when they last advertisecl 

Thief Wants His Libertv. — Amos Rosenthal, alias A. C. 
Coleman, or "Diamond Charlie," the notorious swindler, has 
engaged two Toronto lawyers to help him escape from jail. 
"Diamond Charlie" was arrested in St. Mary's, Ont., several 
years ago. He had recently finished a term of years in Missouri 
State prison, and was particularly wanted in Georgia on a charge 
of stealing $10,000 worth of diamonds. He consented not to fight 
extradition if the American detectives would agree to try him 
upon only one charge in Georgia and another in Missouri. 
There were about a do^ten cases against him, but his terms were 
agreed to, and he was tried and sent down for several years. He 
has now just completed his time, but the Georgia people want to 
try him on several old charges. To this "Diamond Charlie" 
strongly objects, and he has asked the Toronto lawyers to pro- 
duce the extradition agreement. 



QUERIES AND TRADE NOTES 

In this department will appear answers to an oorrespondencd and queries 
that are of general interest and miscellaneous items and comments on matters 
in connection with the trade. 

A NOVELTY in sterling silver pencil protectors is just being 
shown by Aiken, Lambert & Co., of 19 Maiden lane, New York. 
They are called the Birthday Stone Head Pencil Protectors, and 
in the head of each a stone symbolic of each month is mounted. 
They are assorted one dozen on an easel with a velvet lined box 
for each and form an attractive novelty. 

Everything in American and foreign watch tools and ma- 
terials is carried in stock by H. S. Kramer, 82 Nassau street, New 
York. A new edition of Mr. Kramer's "Jeweler's Guide" is 
about ready and will be sent free to any jeweler on application. 
Send in your name on a postal card. 

Microscopical Engraving. — There is a steady demand in 
the trade for really good engravers, and we have noticed recently 
that it is being extensively learnt by the rising generation. 
Young men might do a great deal worse than acquire proficiency 
in this art, a knowledge of which is sure to be of value. An ex- 
ample of remarkable expertness in engraving has recently been 
furnished by the head engraver of the E. F. Bowman Technical 
School of Watchmaking and Engraving, at Lancaster, Pa. He 
has performed in an admirable manner the feat of engraving the 
Lord's Prayer upon one side of a Canadian five-cent piece. The 
words can only be read by means of a powerful glass, underwhich 
the text shows up clear and distinct. The Bowman Technical 
School has an able corps of instructors, and is turning out thor- 
oughly well-trained young men. One of their graduates has just 
been called to one of the largest jewelry manufacturers in Phila- 
delphia as engraver. 

On another page we print two letters relative to the quality 
of the gold and silver used in the chains made by A. Wallach & 
Co., 37-39 Maiden lane, New York. "There is no going behind 
the returns when the evidence offered is the assay slip from the 
United States Assay office," say the manufacturers. "The fact 
that the w;jres assayed were selected by a disinterested party, 
who had no idea of favoring us, clinches the matter the more 
thoroughly." 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



425 



[The name DUEBHR, or the Daeber Traie Mark, on a waich or Watch Case, is a guar- 
antee that It is the best of its kind* Tiie name Doeber, or the Dueber Trade Marl^ on Gold or 
Silver Watch Cases, is reoMfnfzed all over the United States, as good as the Hall Mark of England. 

Upon this impregnable foundation of honesty and reliability. The Dueber Co* has built up 
its immense business ] 




Dueber 
Hampden 




Special Railway, 23 Jewel. 



New.Rallway. 17 Jewel. 



Highest Grade American Watclies 




For Gentlemen's use we recommend 

THE *'BIG SIX/' 



Special Railway, • • 
New Railway, . • • 
John Hancock, • • • 
New Railway, . • • 
John C Dueber Special, 
Dueber Grand, * • • 



• 23 Jewel. 
. 23 *' 

. 21 '' 

. J7 *' 

. J7 ^ 

• J7 *" 




New Railway. 23 Jewel. 



John C. Dacber Special, 17 Jewel. 



For Ladies' use we recommend the smallest watch made in America, called 

'*THE 400" 

either O. F. or Htg., with second hand. This Watch is made only by this Company. 

Cases for the above in 

18 Karat Solid Gold, 
14 Karat Solid Gold, 
H Karat Gold FiUed« 

Always on hand or made to special order. 




John Hancock, 21 Jewel. 



The Dueber Watch Works, 

at Canton, Ohio, 

form the finest and most complete Watch Plant in 
the world. The twin factories manufacture both 
Watch Movements and Watch Cases 




Dueber Qnuid, 17 Je^el. 



BEVARE OF IWITATIONS, OR WATCHRg SOI,D UNDER SIMILAR N^MES, 



y 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 5, 1899 




This department is devoted to practical and theoretical articles relating to 
the science and study of optics, and will be sustained by able writers on this 
subject. Under this head will be pubUshed fuU reports of meetings of the 
sereral optical societies, as well as an news of interest to opticians, together 
with copies of lectures and other papers relating to optics. 



Subscribers are invited to send questions on matters on which they desire 
information. These will be answered through our columns^ which are also 
open for the ventilation of all phases of Optical opinion. 



Communications Should be Addressed Optical Department. 
The Jewelers Revikw, 170 & 17s Broadway, New York. 



L. L FERGUSON, Editor. 



Vol,. XXXII. 



APRIL 5, 1899. 



No. 14. 



Bye 
JMasMge 



In these piping times of business enter- 
prise genius always forges to the front and 
makes his mark. 

The optical profession should be sincerely 
grateful to a Columbus avenue, New York, 
optician who has added to his repertoire eye massage. He an- 
nounces the fact by means of a sign in his shop window which 
runs: "Are your eyes tired? Try a massage. Twenty-five cents 
for the operation." He places his patient in a chair and manipu- 
lates the eyelids and surrounding portions with his index finger 
and thumb, and claims that such friction dissipates *'floatin' 
specks/' etc. 

Optical teachers may take warning that hereafter their course 
of tuition will be incomplete unless they essay to make a full- 
fledged masseur or masseuse (according to sex) out of every 
graduate. 

At present we know of no legjtl restriction, such as regent's 
examinations, etc., being put upon the practice of massage in 
this State similar to what the horseshoers, oyster openers or 
other equally high professional callings have hedged around 
them, so this new-found calling may be to the optician as a green 
oasis in a forbidding desert. Who knows but some day when 
we are deprived of the practice of optometry by legislative en- 
actments but what we will be able to eke out our living by be- 
coming eye masseurs at twenty-five cents a rub. Our gratitude 
should partake of monumental proportions to this genius who 
has opened up a new vista and a new road for us to acquire 
wealth. 

But alack! we fear that our ancient Nemesis will soon discover 
that massage possesses the same tbcv -^leutic value as a pair of 
rusty spectacles, and if the cult tvttrt; illy proves remunerative 



it will no doubt be classed in th 
which only medical opticians arc- 
So we would not advise opti< 
undignified haste to acquire and 
wrested from them. It would : 
"Why was I begun for if I am so - 



:.to.u:ory of forbidden fruits 
• '5«!d to enjoy. 
•' jostle each other in an 
'arize that which might be 
' the trite euphemism of 
: } be done for?" 



As many have often reiterated, the question 
The Root as to who or who not is morally and legally 

of the qualified to refract eyes, is not one of particu- 

Qu€5tlon lar abstruseness; after all, the question never 

would have raised its discordant head and 
bothered one side or the other, had it not been for the com- 
mercial and incidentally the financial end of the business. 

Who in this universe ever heard of two contentious factions 
warring over an abstract issue that was devoid of even intrinsic 
value? 

Histories are replete with stories of man's envy of his fellow 
man from Cain down to the present day; in fact, by generations 
and centuries it has become so indurated in our breasts that we 
all possess it, differing only in degree, and broad-minded and 
generous spirited indeed are those who are without it. 

The struggle for what is termed the "survival of the fittest" not 
only occurs merely in the reproduction of genera but also holds 
equally true in all forms of livelihoods, professions being no fa- 
vored exception to the rule; in fact, jealousies, etc., seem to 
reach a more exquisite degree of perfection among those whom. 







IT^*^.^ 


K^a^ 


• 





Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



April 5, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



427 



by virtue of education alone the public should expect high ideals 
and clean disinterestedness, rather than from those who are 
reckoned stolid and are less favored educationally or otherwise. 

Therefore, while it does seem severe to impute mercenary 
motives to any one class who would speciously pre-empt any 
vocation, at the same time that is but a natural corollary which 
we must be pardoned in assuming in the light of similar past 
events. 

Anent the practice of optometry by both non-medical and 
medical practitioners, and the claim of the latter that they are 
the only depository of optometrical knowledge and the dis- 
pensers of jurisprudence concerning our legal status, we must 
remark that the actions of a numerically insignificant few of the 
latter class are responsible for the discord which has been rife 
for the past several years, and which has been provocative of 
nothing but "Dead Sea fruit." What has actuated them in this 
abortive crusade, altruistic regard for the good of the com- 
munity? Bosh! The loudest wail comes from the newly made 
oculists, who, as a rule, owe their nurturing to the motherly 
cares of an optician, who either lends or gives them a test case, 
ophthalmoscope, etc., who in return receives prescriptions to be 
filled in a desultory manner, until the inevitable weaning process 
takes place, when the oculist severs the entente with his opti- 
cian and immediately proceeds to eat the whole apple himself. 

The optician stands by, mutely begging for the discarded 
core, when the oculist tells him "There ain't goin' to be no core." 

The meat of the apple might possibly under some circum- 
stances be the oculist's preserve, but the core, in the shape of the 
prescription, mechanical work, etc., which belongs to the opti- 
cian, is also denied him. 

So when this state of affairs has transpired it is persiflage 
to state that the financial aspect of the case is not the actuating 
lever to hungry pretensions. 



W ^f00^'^(!0 ^^ ^0!4r^tf^f4f4F^ f€0^^^ 4 f 04 f ^ ^ 



WHEN BUYING 

Gold Filled Frames 

SEE THAT THEY ARE 

STAMPED G1< 

AND THIS TAG ATTACHED. 



a 




THE EARLIEST RECORD OF MYOPIA 

While history has recorded that Caligula, Emperor of Rome, 
was short-sighted, and used a concave emerald for gazing at dis- 
tant objects, it also shows that myopia, while possibly not as 
prevalent as it is to-day, yet was sufficiently known and under- 
stood to permit those suffering from that defect to become ex- 
empt from military service, much in the same fashion as myopes 
are debarred from military service at the present day. 

Antiquarians, especially Egyptologists, have done much to- 
ward the enlightenment of the present generation as regards the 
laws, habits, etc., of the ancient Egyptians. 

Last year explorers acting under the directtoa of the Graeco- 
Roman branch of the Egyptian Exploration Fund, unearthed a 
collection of papyri of almost priceless archaeological value, al- 
most 10,000 in number. Messrs. Grenfell and Hunt have care- 
fully edited about 150 of them, and published them with a com- 
mentary in a volume entitled the "Oxyrhynchus Papyri, Part I, 
with eight fac-simile plates." Among various classic writers 
whose works appear in the papyri are Thucydides, Plato and 
Sappho. 

Papyrus No. 39 is taken from the military archives of Oxy- 
rhynchus, and is the certificate of release from army service of 
one Tryphon, because of defective eyesight. It reads thus: "Copy 
of release, dated and signed in the twelfth year of Tiberius Clau- 
dius Cjesar. Release from service was granted by G. Vergil ius 
Capito, praefect of Upper and Lower Egpyt, to Tryphon, son of 
Dionysius, weaver, suffering from cataract and shortness of sight, 
of the metropolis of Oxyrhynchus. Examination was made at 
Alexandria." 

Tiberius was the immediate predecessor of Caligula, therefore 
the finding and deciphering of this papyrus carries back the au- 
thentic history of the recognition of myopia by at least twelve 
years or so, because the examination was made in the twelfth year 
of Tiberius, which would make the date Anno Domini 26, for 
Caligula assumed the emperorship about eleven years later. 

While the discovery allows us to antedate our present knowl- 
edge but such a short space of time, yet it serves a corroborative 
purpose, and more wonderful still is the fact that myopia was a 



No. 078, Gold End Piece. 

ANY JOBBER 
WILL SELL THEM TO YOU. 

MADE BY 

THE SOUTHBRIDCE OPTICAL GO. 

Southbridge^ Mass. 



I J1 Gold Tilkd frame 



must be a good one, or it is not 
worth handling. 



Ours arc not only GOOD, 

il THEY ARE THE BEST. 



A vcf 7 satisf actof y frame for $8.00 doz. 

i ( Send 75c. for sample. 

i J A Superfine Frame, with Solid Gold Joints, at 
* $10.50 doz- 

Send 90C. for sample. 

Our Pefsonal Gtsarantee on these Goods* 



|( Our Prescrit^tioii Olork \% tbe Kecognized 
!« StaRdard. 

D.V.BROWN 

738-40-42 Sansom St., PhUadcIphia, Pa. 
EVERYTHING OPTICAL. 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 5, 1899 



recognized defect sufficiently understood to debar its possessor 
from the army. 

In those days not only was myopia recognizable, but it seems 
that they were also able to diagnosticate the presence of cataract. 
Now in the absence of introspective optical instruments, such as 
what we of to-day know as an ophthalmoscope or retinoscope, 
how could the ancients be aware of such conditions? Certainly 
senile cataracts in their later stages are visible by focused light, 
so in the absence of instruments it is safe to assume that they were 
not able to diagnose cataracts in their incipient stages. 

Furthermore, it is certainly wonderful when we reflect what a 
paucity of eye knowledge there was in those days, to know that 
cataract operations (not by aphakia, but by the needle process) 
were performed in Egypt during the reign of the Ptolemies. 



\^ 



PREVALBNCE OF MYOPIA IN JAPAN 

An examination, recently made, of the eyes of the students of 
the Tokio Imperial University, gave the following results: 



Course. 


Number 
Examined. 


Perfect. 


Short Sight; 


Far Sight. 


Literature 


198 
830 
180 
457 
94 


68 
175 
54 
28 
89 


128 
148 

75 
280 

55 


S 


Technical 

Medicine 

Law 

Science 


2 

1 
4 







IDEAL REFRACTING OFHCES 

The accompanying illustration is a picture of one of the best 




E. L. KGOLF'S REFRACTING ROOM AT HARRISBURG PA. 

equipped refracting rooms in the State of Pennsylvania, if not in 
the country. 

The store and office is located on North Third street, Harris- 
burg, the State capital. 

Its proprietor, Mr. E. L. Egolf, not only presides over its des- 
tinies, but also operates an equally well equipped refracting room 
located at New Berne, N. C. 



VORKING DISTANCES IN SKIASCOPY 

LECTURE DELIVERED BEFORE THE OPTICAL SOCIETY OF THE CITY OF 
NEW YORK BY L. L. FERGUSON 

{Copyright^ iSqq^ by TJu /**. -//^r* Review) 



metropia to neutralize it by virtue of the divergency caused by 
their relative positions; therefore in appearance the myope only 
has 1.7s D. of myopia, which is neutralized by the interposition 
of a — 1.75 D. sph., but that does not totally correct the putative 
error. You observe that the 1.75 has ocularly corrected from your 
point of view only. Wittingly you have supplied 1.75 D. sph., 
and unwittingly you have supplied 0.75 more of the corrective 
element by reason of your 48 inches working distance; therefore, 
to give the proper prescription we would say — 1.75 Ds. plus 
the working distance; 48 inches is 2.50 D. sph. If the interven- 
ing distances be 20 inches you have unwittingly supplied 20 
inches or two diopters of neutralizing power; therefore it will be 
necessary to only impose a — 0.50 D. sph. to complete the job. 
Recollecting in writing the formula that the 20 inches was ex- 
actly the same as though you had used a — 2.00 D. sph. you must 
add that to the — 0.50 D. sph., which would be — 2.50 D. 

Again, if there be myopia to 2.50, and the working distance 
be 16 inches, the divergency caused by the optician's proximity 
would negative any penumbral movement; therefore unwittingly 
a — 2.50 D. sph. was applied in the abstract, and therefore that 
amount of lens correction should be prescribed; also, if there be 
myopia to 2.50 D., but hypothetically we place the working dis- 
tance at 13 inches. The divergency caused by the operator's 
proximity has completely negatived the myopia; in fact, there 
exists an extra 0.50 D. of hypermetropia. Now we know if that 
eye was normal, owing to our proximity, it should receive a 
+ 3.00 D. lens, yet the test discloses that only a 0.50 D. is neces- 
sary. Now there exists only one thing that could neutralize this 
natural law, and that is the presence of myopia; therefore to ob- 
tain the correct lens deduct the ocular correction from the 
amount of working distance and the result would be — 2.50 D. 
sph. 

Such procedures are termed, "measuring the point of rever- 
sal." Too much reliance should not be placed upon this method, 
except as a means of rough computation, because errors of over 
a 0.50 diopter are liable to be committed by even the most expert, 
due to the fact mentioned previously that the closer the prox- 
imity the poorer is the penumbra visible. Furthermore, the 
natural aberrancy inherent in all phases of myopia and hyper- 
metropia are bad enough at their best without aggravating them, 
particularly hypermetropia and all forms of astigmatism by in- 
creasing the simulated error by close proximity. 

At least two-thirds of all ocular deformities that have re- 
fractive errors as a sequence are of i.oo D. or under, and it is 
these conditions that impel the tyro to exclaim that skiascopy 
used in the weaker errors of refraction is unreliable. This ver- 
dict is invariably prompted by the inability of the operator to 
either mitigate or increase the refractive correction according 
to the nature of the error. 

The operator should recollect that appearances are often de- 
ceptive. What often appears to be hypermetropia by virtue of 
divergency caused by proximity is in actuality myopia. The 
same dictum also holds good in astigmatism, and the operator 
who works at the stereotyped distance of i meter and sees the 
shadow go with in astigmatism of a .25 or a .50 D. when using a 
plain skiascope is convinced that it is an actual case of hyper- 
metropia, when in reality it is myopic astigmatism, but ocularly 
it partakes of the nature of hyperopia by virtue of the working 

distance. 

(To be continued) 



Continued frc. 

The optics of a case of myop 
is analogous to the act of neutra • 
cave lens. Objects viewed thr 
stationary; just so in viewing t 
fixed. The emergent converger 
presents the convex lens, and • 
the concave lens with which it i- 

If the myopia be of 2.50 D. '.. 
16 inches; so to carry out the illu-^ . ion we say it is equivalent 
to a + 2.50 D. spherical. Now, '^ \\\*. optician inspects that eye 
at a distance of ^ feet he has apnii'-o '•. lonsciously 0.75 of hyper* 



1 1' t j«»sue 

f,t o -o D. viewed 6 feet away 

If ^ p onvex sphere by a con- 

ig'^ >iich a combination are 

rtHf :, the penumbra is also 

ray 1- "^m the myopic eye rep- 

v\ Ving distance represents 

■unsized. 

r point of distinct vision is 



OPTICAL NEWS NOTES 

Last Wednesday the Senate of the Illinois Legislature passed 
the bill "to create a State Board of Opticians," which was re- 
cently introduced by Senator Putnam, at the instance of the 
Illinois Optical Society. Th'is bill is identical with that intro- 
duced previously in the House, which was killed by the Judiciary 
Committee, who had it under consideration. 

F. W. Laban, of Toronto, O., will begin this week to take a 
course in optics with the Rodney Pierce Optical Company. 

Grafton H. ^ratt, of Iowa, is a recent graduate of Johnston 
Optical Institute and College of Ophthalmology at 84 Wabash 
avenue. 



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April 5, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



429 



"Kirstein, of Rochester/' is widely known for the excellence 
and promptness of his prescription department. Dealers in need 
of optical goods of any kind will do well to keep in touch with 
this hQttse. ; 

E. M. Elgas, formerly of Elgas & Eggert, is conducting an 
optical business in the Koken Building, St. Louis. He makes a 
specialty of filling prescriptions for the trade, and business is so 
good with him that he hjis decided to establish a ground floor 
shop at 616 Olive street in the near future. 

Mr. A. R. Brooks, of the Brooks Optical Company, St. 
Louis, is spending a vacation at his home in Mt. Vernon, 111. 
He is expected to return in about two weeks. 

A. A. Erker, of the Erker Bros. Optical Co., is down with la 
grippe. He has been unable to leave his house for two weeks. 

Levi & Joseph, opticians, have removed from 711 to j^s San- 
som street. 



OAMONDS AND OTHER PREQOUS STONED. 
Undir tkU head wffl Appear «U nutter of interest to Upidariee, Indndiit^ 
foreifB diamond market reporte and all other newa relating to precioiiB stones. 
While we eaanot pablish all oorrespondence leoeiTed, yet mattan of inteieec 
win alwsFt leoeiTe a ^laoe in this department* 

STATE OF THE FOREIGN GEM MARKETS 

PfiOM OUR SPECIAL CORRESPONDENTS 

London, March 25th. — We have had a very busy week this 
week, or at any rate there have been plenty of buyers here for 
roug-h goods. By the same steamer that will take this letter a 
large shipment of rough goods will leave for New York. Our 
poHs4i market has been very active this week. For several 
weeks we have had reason to complain, for French and Russian 
dealers have bought everything in sight, which made it very 
awkward for us, but last week they were slow buyers, which 
was more to our liking. We have bought heavily lately, as we 
are behind with the spring goods, and consequently our jewelers 
have to work overtime. There is a great demand for fancy dia- 
monds, but there is always more or less demand for them, and 
especially for colors most difficult to obtain; for instance, black 
always commands a ready sale, but it must be very fine. Colored 
stones this week had a good run, and several lots were sold at 
fair prices. M. de LYON. 

Antwerp, March 25th. — Plenty of buyers for polish goods 
are here and several large sales are recorded. One big lot was 
sold by J. Kryn and also one by Talkowsky. Max Tom, the 
broker, has sold several large lots. Latinie & Van Antwerp 
and Van der Bosh had a good share too. Prices have been 
steadily going up, but the European diamond buyers take an ad- 
vance much easier than their American brethren do. Our Lon- 
don travelers have not arrived yet, and this week a great many 
went over. J. AKIE. 

Amste&dam, March 25th. — ^The Amstel Hotel and Hotel 
Mille are crowded with guests and have actually had 
to send customers to other houses, which goes to show that 
there are crowds of polish buyers here. Goods are at a prem- 
ium. There is an exceptional demand for fine small goods 
from 40 to 60 per karat fine. The Van Egels have sold a lot 
of Wesselton polish goods, a great part of which have gone to 
New York for their factory there. We had a rumor here that 
Kryn & Wauters are not going to give way to their strikers, 
and have sold their rough to Stern Bros. & Co. This, I think, 
is a canard. News from London announces another rise in 
price, but this we are now quite used to. H. CHARLES. 



AT THE HOTELS. 

RMent azTiTsls are posted daily in the office of " The Jewelers Review," 
when the bulletins can be inspected by members of the trade. 

J. Stuart MacDonald, of Baltimore, at St. Denis; W. C. 
Shaw, of Washington, D. C, at Astor; J. S. Davidson, of Wash- 
ington, D. C, at Astor; J. S. Gibbs, of Wheeling, W. Va., at Im- 
perial; S. Gerhart, of Bahimore, at Hoffman; F. A. Robbins, of 
Pittsfield, at New Amsterdam; E. Stein, of Chicago, at Gerard; 
L. L Shurtlcff, of New Bedford, at Continental; A. Henius, of 
Providence, at Metropole; M. B. Bernstein, of ^inghamton, at 
Sinclair ;C. E. Vosburg, of Binghamton, at Grand; W. B. Mix, ci 
Albany, at Grand Union; L Vidito, of Halifax, at St. Denis; E. 
G. Grau, buyer for Dwyer Bros., of New Orleans, at Empire. 



YOU WANT 

FINE— 




TRAYS and)! 

CASES 



SHOW UP your Goods 

S. VALFER ( CO. 

Makes them 



,^^1 SEND /or CATALOGUE 

S. VALFER & CO., 33 maiden lane, n.y. \\ 

Makers of FINE CASES and TRAYS 
FOR JEWELERS AND SILVERSMITHS. 

^lia55of Bros.9<5o., 

IMPORTERS AND JOBBERS IN 

Diamonds, Watches, Jewelry, 

Silyerware, Clocks, Materials, Tools and Optical Goods. 

New York City : Albany, N. Y. : 

9, II, 13 MAIDEN LANB. 6a & 64 3TATB 3TRBBT. 



OrR Motto—" Honest Goods and Honest Dealings " 




ROSENBAUM & ADLER 



.MPORTERs OF Diamonds. 

AMD MANUFACTURERS OF 

DIAMOND JEWELRY & HOUNTINGS 

65 Nassau St., N. Y. 

NOVELTIES A SPECIALTY. 



FACTORY : 
NEWANK, N. J. 



" If yoa aiDt got no money yon needn't come aronnd " 

iiiXAP ]Vo. 1 

10 K. GOLD FILLED HAIRPIN CHAINS 

WARRANTED FOR $^ 50 PER DOZEN 
10 YEARS. T" NET CASH 

Send 40 cents for Sample Chain, wATCH FOR SNAP No. 2 

in text week's issue. 
WRITE FOR PRICE LIST ON R WORK. 



The Toric Optical Co. 



E. J. KORNFtLD, 

M«Mig«r 



32 E. 23d St., New York i 



Digitized by ^OOQ IC 



430 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 5, 1899 



CERABnCS 

Under this head special attention will be given to pottexy, bric-a-brac and 
porcelain, which now form an important part of the jeweler's trade. Fine 
products of the potter's art have always been prized by the select few but 
recently the popular taste has caused a demand for these goods which has 
encouraged artists of recognized ability in their production, as new wares are 
constantly appearing, especially in foreign countries. 

CRESCENT WARE 

This ware, the product of the potteries of George Jones & 
Sons, Burslem, England, has earned for itself a reputation for 
excellence of quality, as well as for the delicacy of the decorative 
effects employed. The factory at Bruslem has been established 
for the last 50 years and manufactures a large variety of pottery, 
from the finest qualities to the coarser descriptions of earthen- 
ware. Our illustration being in black and white, gives but a 
very limited idea of the 
decoration employed. The 
colors are delicate, while the 
gilt, Which is sparingly but 
effectively used, serves the- 
purpose of an artistic fin- 
ish to tihe whole design. 
We are indebted for the 
example we illustrate to 
Davison Brothers, 12 
Barclay street. New York, 
who are the American 
agents for George Jones & 
Sons. 

They carry a large se- 
lection of the goods manu- 
factured by this well- 
known English firm, some 
of the lines being of an ex- 
ceptionally choice charac- 
ter and well adapted to the jewelry trade. A few choice examples 
of such goods make an excellent addition to the jewelers' win- 
dows and show cases, and encourage a demand for these choice 
ware. 



applied for. This horseshoe pattern is offered in quite an ex- 
tensive variety of pieces, among which those specially handsome 
are fruit and salad bowls, berry dishes, water bottles, punch 
bowls, cups, etc. 




DECORATED CUP AND JJAUCER IN CRESCENT WARE 



BERQEN CUT GLASS 

Our illustration shows a cut glass bowl which would no doubt 
be welcome among the wedding gifts of any June bride. It is not 
only a beautiful example of cut glass, but by reason of the four 
horseshoes in the pattern, proverbially associated with good 
luck, it would have a double significance most acceptable to the 



CERAMIC NOTES 

L. Straus & Sons, 42 Warren street, New York, call atten- 
tion to their cut glass assortments at $50, $75 and $100. They will 
be pleased to send illustrations of these assortments on applica- 
tion. Jewelers in need of special pieces in cut glass for present- 
ation purposes will also do well to look at the large assortment 
of such to be seen at the Straus show rooms. 

Specialties in fancy plates, fish and game sets are a feature 
with Davison Brothers, 12 Barclay street, New York. In addi- 
tion they have a fine line 
of china which is well 
worth inspection. 

We wilC next week il- 
lustrate a specimen piece 
of Utopian faience, the 
production of the J. B. 
Owens Pottery Company, 
Zanesville, O. This ware, 
which is in artistic blend- 
ings of dark brown, -mauve 
and dark green, is high in 
favor with lovers of dec- 
orative pottery. In a show 
window it possesses not 
only its innate attractive- 
ness, but serves as a foil 
for the jewelry display. 
The shapes are, as a rule, 
excellent, being modifica- 
tions of the mediaeval or original creations. While some of the 
pieces ares old at prices as low as 50 or 60 cents each, they run up 
to $100, depending of course on the shape, size and decoration. 
The decoration on the wares is in underglaze, in slight relief, 
and the production of artists, many of whom are of international 
reputation. The goods are specially adapted for retail jewelers, 
being exclusive, decorative and possessing strong selling powers. 




NEWS OF THE TRAVELING MEN 

Under thii head we c^re from week to week the maremeBti of the tnYeUnc 
lepieientatiTet of the txade. We shall welcome any notee they may tend na 
from time to time of mattera of interost. 

Cindniuitl.— Visltinfc traveling men this week will be : A. Wilson, Crescent 
Watch Case Co.; Wm. Rosenbereer, A. Wallaoh & Co.; J. Rodenberg, Roden- 
bercr & Dunn ; R. Potter, J. M. Fisher & Co.; J. Lampert, Henrv Zlmern & Co.; 



BERGEN CUT GLASS BOWL 

recipient. Briefly described, the cutting has for its main features 
four horseshoes, overlapping at sides and bottoms. Concave, 
oval mirrors and fans fill the centers of the horseshoes; at the 
bottom is a large chrysanthemum, and fine diamond work fills in 
'ie space between the upper part of the shoes. No similar de- 
sign has ever before been cut, say the manufacturers, and they 
believe it to be entirely original. A design copyright has been 



Nye, C. Rogers & Bros.; D. Riddle, Adolph Straus & Co.; Ray Randall, Riley, 
French & Heffron. 

Detroit.— The following representatives of jewelry houses were in town 
this week: J. A. Lucas, Cnioago; P. A. Wilkinson, Providence; William A. 
Wlghtman, North Attleboro, Mass.; I. 8. Rlchter, Chicago; Joho W. Mayer, 
New York ; J. Rosenband, New York ; Walter Schute, New York. 

Pittsburg.— The Eastern traveling men not so plentv this week. The 
following were here at the Hotel Anderson : F. C. AUen, A. Wlttnauer, New 
York ; Lewis P. Cook, J. P. Fradley & Co., New York ; T. H. B. Pavls, The 
Mlddletown Plate Co., Middletown, Conn.; Ray Randall. RUey, French * 
Heflfron, North Attleboro, Mass.; H. E. Cobb, Daggatt & Clap. Attleboro, 
Mass.; William A. Wlghtman, H. D. Merritt & Co.. North Attleboro, Mass.; 
Samuel H. Fink, Fink, Bodenhelmer & Co., New York : Frank J. Keller. Keller 
Manufacturing Co.; F. Laurance, Spencer Optical Manufacturing Co.. New 
York ; F. R. Krugler, H. A. Kirby & Co., New York ; L. Kragler, Jr., Champ- 
enols & Co., Newark, N. J.; George A. Stockden, J. D. Bergen Co., New 
York. 

The colors used in the ornamentation of pottery are all made 
of metals, chiefly cobalt, iron, copper and manganese. 



I SPECIALTIES IN m^ 

\ ^ Dmert Platei, f lib ana fiame $et$, ^c. 

1 Fine China Art Pieces 

i DAVISON BROS., Sli«w Rooms, 12 Barclay St., New York. 




BACCARAT GLASSWARE 1 

(Cristalleries de Baccarat, France). | 

I Trade Mark. Gift, Engfavcd zxi^ Cut SUlllWdfC 

I in many UNIQUE and HANDSOME DESIGNS, specially adapted for Retail Jewelers. | 

I Large variety of CUT GLASS PIECES for Silversmiths. \ 

I Mew York Office, 41 Warren Street. PAUL DURAND.Moiiagtr. 



iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii 



iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiuiiiiiiiitiiiiiiiiDKiiliiiiiiitiuiiiiiiiiiniiniiiii 



Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



, Aprils, 1899 



THE' JEWELERS REVIEW 



43^ 



«fi««i 



il«MH9H3lDHM«lMil 



ilflll9iWISff9l90BiffwffNlVfi 



p flnMitllnvwimKiP www 
^9 



O 



The Straus Ameriean Cut Glass 



« 
o 



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o 



s 








r 



An extensive variety of pieces 
designed specially for presenta- 
tion purposes. 




Moderate Prices. 



REIONS SUPREME 
in quality of crystal, 
workmanship and 
brilliant finish. 



For the convenience of the 
trade, we have also prepared as- 
sortments at $50, $75 and $100. 
Illustrations of these may be had 
on application. 



TRADE MARK. 



FACTORY : 

59th Street end North River, 

New York. 



L. STRAUS & SONS, Manufacturers, 

42 to 46 Waften Street, New York. 



.1 



0|HM0000000000««0ft«a00000000000«»«00»000«0«0«00000000«0«««0«00»0«0000000»0000000000ft 



UTOPIAN FAIENCE 



This is a high-glaze 

* m Pottery • 

in beautiful blendings of dull 

Green, Mauve, and Brown. Each piece disiinctive, no two alike; Free Hand Decorations by eminent artists, is slight relief, 
great variety in shapes, which are original creations or modifications of the Mediaeval. 

ZM Cine i$ SPCCiallV SdapUd for tbt Retail Jeweler^ in that it is decorative in the highest degree and pos- 
S2sses strong selling powers. Prices for the different pieces vary from 50 cents to $i.oo» according to shape, size and decoration. 



New York Salesroom: 

W. H. DUNN, 68-70 West Broadway. 



J. B. OWENS POTTERY CO. 

Main Office and Pottery, ZANESVILLE, 0. 



FOR JUNE WEDDINGS 




38 Murray S'. 
NEW YORK 




AMERICAN CUT GLASS 



BRILLIANT FINISH 



BEST WORKMANSHIP 



MODERATE PRICES 



THB 



FOREMOST LINE t^ MARKET TO-DAY 



NEW AND 

BEAUTIFUL 

SHAPES 

DAZZLING 

EFFECTS 



qUAWT WHI8KBY JUQ. 



The Dealer who handles ''BERGEN'' CUT GLASS can defy competition 
We prombed sttf nnins: thingfs for this year — we've got them! 




BERRY DISH; 



y 



W ^ . , . SPECIALTIES IN 

m^ SMBLUNQ mad SALTS BOTTLES, 
^^l^ft^ SALVE and PUFF BOXES, 

^^W^ For MOUNTING, MATCHING and REPAIRING. 

Y Cutting Shop on Premises.. 34 Years* Experience. 

TRADE HARK. W. H. LUM, 46 MuiTray St., New York. 



SPECIALTIES IN 

cut GLASS for JEWELERS. 

THE KIND THAT SELL! 
WICKE & CO., 32 Park Place, NEW YORK* 



Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



432 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 5, 1899 



KIDDLE ATLANTIC STATB NEWS. 



4Um tkit feffidJaf win b« fooai wMk Vj wMk Bwttmg Vfwt» tataiMt- 
fag «bA iMfHl perfOBAl ttuM fran tte ttatM of Www Tofk, Vtw J«n«j, 
FtBafjtnaia, lUiTlAiid, Mawtre and tht TbglilM. Wo thaa bo gU4 to 
loeoifo fran oar loaAort for iaoortloa In thlo oOlimm, aotioot of wmawtl aid 
buaiiieio etaaasot of an kliiA. Saoh notea ahoidA nach ua not later than 
lIODdajr mominc In oack weak. 

New YORK 

M. Shottlander, 59 Nassau street, whose entrance into and 
discharge from bankruptcy wc have closely followed in our col- 
umns, has again opened up in his old place. 

A rather ingenious advertising scheme was suggested in a 
letter sent to the New York "Press" last Friday. The gist of 
the letter is that a large clock should be placed at either end of 
the Brooklyn Bridge. Every "L" station and depot is supplied 
with clocks, and yet the terminus of the numerous "L" roads 
and trolley roads has none. "If the company or city will not 
provide them," he says, "there is a chance for some liberal ad- 
vertiser to make a present and thereby advertise himself." 

The pawnbroker shop of William Simpson, 129 Park row, 
was damaged by fire last Thursday to the extent of $150. 

The S. Dessau Co., importers of carbon and bortz, have re- 
moved from 37 and 39 Maiden lane to the fifteenth floor of the 
Gill Building, 9, 11 and 13 Maiden lane. 

H. D. Merritt & Co., manufacturers of chains, Attleboro, 
Mass., have removed their New York office from 21-23 Maiden 
lane to the ninth floor of the Gill Building, 9, 11 and 13 Maiden 
lane. 

Palmer & Packham, manufacturers of sterling silverware, At- 
tleboro, Mass., have moved their New York offices from No. 
I Union square to the Gill Building, on the ninth floor. 

The Gorham Mfg. Company arc now carrying an Easter line 
of leather goods which is both remarkable for the varieties of 
leather used and the beautiful finish for which they are famous. 
Their lizard skin pocketbooks, purses and chatelaine bags are 
just as popular as ever. They have just introduced a line of 
beaded work pocketbooks and opera bags which, owing to the 
variety of colors used and the beautiful figures worked out in 
the beads, is having a big Easter run. Rhinoceros skin, which 
has sprung into use lately, is by far the most beautiful leather in 
use. Its extreme durability and beautiful velvety surface is un- 
rivaled by any other leather, but owing to its costliness it can 
only become popular among the very wealthy. I might add that 
the Gorham Company have a few pieces of that remarkably beau- 
tiful glaceware manufactured by Clement Mossier, Golfe Jeran. 
This ware is electroplated with silver and beautifully chased. 

C. Dorflinger & Son have an Easter display in the windows 
of their Broadway store of very beautiful colored cut glass and 
imported glass ware. 

The real name of the young man who was arrested for rob- 
bing Fifth avenue stores, an account of which we gave in our last 
issue, is Lumsden. Lumsden was at one time an employe of 
Theo. B. Starr, 260 Fifth avenue, who became one of his first vic- 
tims. Mr. Starr told our reporter last week that Lumsden had 
•not been in the store at the time the ring was stolen, and in all 
probability the theft had been committed by a confederate of 
Lumsden's. The charge against Lumsden is now in the hands of 
the District Attorney. 

The removal sale of Rogers & Bros.' entire line of hollow- 
ware is now going on in their store at 16 Cortlandt street. 

The windows of the Wilcox Silver Plate Company now dis- 



play this sign: "International Silver Company, Successor to Wil- 
cox Silver Plate Company, Silversmiths." 

William F. King, president of the Merchants* Association, has 
appointed as a committee to investigate the delay in the passage 
of goods through the Appraisers' Stores, I. C. Warner, J. Craw- 
ford McCreery, Thomas H. Downing, Frank Green, H. A. Metz 
and W. J. Angell. This committee has power to take action to 
remove the delay complained of. A meeting of the committee 
was held in the offices of the Merchants' Association last Thurs- 
day afternoon. 

S. Valfer & Co., makers of fine cases and trays for jewelers 
and silversmiths, ZZ Maiden lane, have engaged M. Stein as 
traveling representative. Mr. Stein's acquaintance with the trade 
extends through a number of years. 

Judge Blanchard last Monday denied the application to in- 
spect the Grand Jury minutes in the case of Samuel A. Phillips, 
whose case in re Barrios Diamond Company has been fully dis- 
cussed in several issues of this paper. Phillips is under an in- 
dictment for grand larceny. 

George R. Bidwell, Collector of Customs at New York, con- 
ferred with Assistant Secretary of the Treasury Spaulding last 
Monday regarding a modification of the present baggage inspec- 
tion regulations. 

Edward W. Hearsey, a jewelry clerk, of 812 Pacific street, 
Brooklyn, is under arrest on a charge of threatening to kill his 
wife because she refused to give him $5,000 with which to open 
a store of his own. 

Forty importers held a meeting in the Merchants' Association 
headquarters. New York Life Building, last Thursday afternoon, 
to protest against some of the alleged abuses existing in the Ap- 
praiser's office at this port. The president of the association 
stated that the association had received nearly three hundred 
complaints from its members. The methods of the Appraiser's 
office, it was stated, had always been bad, but the principal diffi- 
culty lies in the length of time it takes to get goods from the 
docks to the stores. 

Charles E. Dorr and E. Holbrook, of the Gorham Manufact- 
uring Company, arrived at London last Wednesday. 

American Association of Manufacturing Opticians will meet 
at the Astor House on May i6th, where they will hold a con- 
vention. 

The American Art Galleries, Mad»«on Square, South, have 
now on exhibition one of the most interesting and varied collec- 
tions of Japanese and Chinese art objects, curios, etc., seen for 
many seasons. There are bronzes, lacquers, arms and armor, 
jars, bowls, plaques and a variety of other things. Among 
the number may be singled out No. 173, a rich peachblow vase, 
brilliant in color and delicate in shape; No: 516, a silver vase 
enameled in peachblow by Nainkowo, the modern Japanese en- 
ameler; No. 66, a pale blue crockled Ofuke bottle; No. 476, a 
slender Japanese bronze vase of the seventeenth century; No. 
343, a fine blue single color vase, bottle-shaped and of the 
Kang-he period, and No. 346, a "Sung" jar, decorated with flow- 
ers and birds in blue enamel. 

The fourth annual report of the Provident Loan Society of 
New York, which conducts a philanthropic pawnshop at 279 
Fourth avenue, states that in 1898 loans were made amounting 
almost to $900,000 on more than 41,000 pledges. Only about ij^ 
per cent, of those that matured were not paid when due. The so- 
ciety earned all its fixed and other charge^, and after paying 6 
per cent, interest on $250,000 certificates of ' tii . itions, was in 
a position to increase its reserve fund by out $15,000. The 



The 



Mercantile National Bank 

OP THE CITT OF NEW YORK, 
BROADWAY AND DEY STREET, 

SoJicits Accounts from the Jewelry Trade. 



Digitized by 




April 5, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



433 



S 



TERN BROS. & CO. 



COTT ERS A ND 
niPORTBRSOF 



DIAMONDS 



Cuttfog Workst 140-146 Wdt I4ftii Stmt 
London Officet 29 Ely Place 



Coma John and Nassau Streets 
NEW YORK 



fund now stands at $40,516, which sum is employed in its busi- 
ness. Besides the certificates of contributions, the society has 
outstanding $283,500 in 5 per cent, gold debenture bonds. 

The marriage is announced of Miss Elizabeth C. Wood, 
daughter of Mr. Chas. Wood, to Mr. Samuel Gray den, son of 
Prof. Gray den, of Stevens Institute. 

The new ifirm of Durlach Si Springer is located at 14 Maiden 
lane. 

N. J. Durlach, of Durlach Bros., has returned from Montreal. 

Moses Strauss, Brooklyn, will sail for Europe in about two 
weeks. 

Some beautiful specimens of glass are on exhibition at the 
Tiffany studios, 33^ Fourth avenue. Their recent experiments 
in new tints have brought forth some wonderful results. 

H. & E. O. Belais, manufacturers of diamond mountings, 
are now located at 47 John street, New York, diagonally oppo- 
site their old quarters. The firm's new offices are larger and 
better lighted. Their specialty is the manufacture of mountings 
for stones of odd shapes, and they will be pleased to furnish 
sketches of designs on application, having experienced men for 
that purpose. 

M. Spindler & Co., manufacturers of gold lockets, have re- 
moved from 32 Maiden lane to larger and better lighted quar- 
ters at 82-84 Nassau street. New machinery iias been installed 
and the firm's manufacturmg facilities have been materially in- 
creased. 

Eisler & Laubheim, manufacturers of diamond mounting^ 
and jewelry, are now located at 87 Maiden lane, corner Gold 
street, where their shop space is 3,000 square feet. They have in- 
stalled a large quantity of new and improved machinery, and 
have otherwise increased their manufacturing faciiifies. 

The rumor that Wilbur F. Wakeman, Appraiser of the Port 
of New York, would resign, and had, in fact, sent his resignation 
to Secretary Gage, is emp»hatically denied. To a Review re- 
porter, who called at the Appraiser's office, the story was pro- 
nounced to be without foundation. The department denies that 
there is any truth in the complaint that has been circulated in 
regard to any unreasonable delays in attending to the reap- 
praisement of importations. The Merchants* Association has 
been requested to appoint a committee to investigate these 
complaints, and the following gentlemen have been appointed 
and are at work: J. C. McC'eery, of McCreery & Co., chair- 
man; L. C. Warner, vice-president of L. C. Warner & Co.; 
Thos. H. Down; F. Green, of E. C. Hazard & Co.; E. C. Mctz, 
president of Victor Koechl Company, and G. W. J. Angells. 
The Merchants* Association is largely represented on the com- 
mittee appointed to arrange for the dinner to be given Senator 
Frye at the Waldorf-Astoria on April 26th. M. Y. F. Cutting 
is chairman and W. R. Corwine secretary. 

The last of the series of excursions on the Trunk Line is in 
eflFect April 3 to 6 inclusive. 

L. Nissen, who has been out of town on business, will re- 
turn Thursday. 

The stocks of M, C. Shaw & Co. and Moore & Leding, Wash- 
ington, D. C, are to be sold at auction. 



Joseph Riha, a jeweler, of No. 710 Humboldt street, Brook- 
lyn, was sworn in as a member of the April Grand Jury. 

J. B. Bodwen Bros, will soon remove to i Maiden lane. 

C. Rogers & Bros., of Meriden, Conn., will shortly occupy 
one floor in the Stevens Building. 

The TAk on Checks. — In order to learn the feeling of the 
trade in regard to the new Clearing House regulation taxing 
out of town checks a Review reporter made a canvass of the larg- 
est jewelry houses in the city with the following result: S. B. 
Mann, treasurer of Aiken, Lambert & Co., thinks that as the 
banking system stands to-day the banks have sufficient compen- 
sation for their collection of checks. As an illustration, he said: 
"We always carry a bank balance of at least $5,000; the income 
from that sum at 4 per cent, is $200 yearly. Now when we take 
into consideration the fact that some firms carry a balance of any- 
where from five to fifty thousand dollars, the income from these 
various bank balances should afford sufficient compensation for 
all the trouble the banks have in collecting notes and checks. 
It is my opinion that a very short experience will fully demon- 
strate the folly of any such system." M. D. Moss, of N. H. 
White & Co., says that the new system will place New York at a 
disadvantage with other cities, for the reason that the majority 
of business houses would find it more economical to do their 
banking outside the State; and yet he believes that some business 
man will soon find some method of escaping the taxation and 
thereby making it meaningless. C. E. Bulkley, president of the 
Whiting Manufacturing Company, says: "I believe that if this 
new rule is enforced its existence will not cover sixty days. It 
would soon drive business from this city." As an example of 
what this tax will mean he used the following illustration. "We 
ihad occasion to send out a check for $5,000 to a firm out of the 
State. The cost of collecting this check will be twelve dollars. 
Who is going to meet the loss?" Mr. Spencer, of the Spencer 
Optical Manufacturing Company, considers the tax an unjust 
one. A small check of 75 cents must be taxed 10 cents. He 
believes the banks are making a mistake and that it will work a 
great deal of injury to the business. J. Bowden believes that it 
is a method that will continue but a very short time. He 
thinks it a mistake. Wm. Barthman does not think it will re- 
main in force long. He considers it unjust and injurious. 

Pottery Interests. — ^John R. Dos Passos, of this city, the 
chief proprietor of the American Potteries' Company, whose op- 
tions on potteries of the United States expire on April ist, has 
asked for an extension of thirty days on the options. The indi- 
cations on every hand are that the Western manufacturers will 
refuse to grant an extension. Prominent potters say that they 
have already suffered from loss of time and trade because of their 
affiliation with the American Potteries* Company. 

The Cushman Building. — ^We are informed by Geo. W. Wil- 
coxson, the agent of the Cushman Building, that the idea pre- 
vailing in the jewelry trade that the rental rates of the Cush- 
man Building are high is entirely without foundation. How this 
idea gained weight it is hard to explain, except it be from the 
fact of the building's extremely convenient situation. The truth 
of the matter is, the rates are as low and as reasonable as could 
be expected from any modern office building. 



Digitized by VnOOQ iC 



434 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 5, 1899 



TRENTON. N. J. 

Many pleasant incidents marked the sine die adjournment of 
the New Jersey Legislature last Friday evening. Speaker David 
O. Watkins of the House, formeriy acting Governor of the 
State, was made the recipient of a costly and massive gold watch, 
chain and locket as a gift from the members of the House. The 
watch is a split second, fly-back movement with chinie attach- 
ment, and it, together with the chain and locket, cost over $300. 
The Speaker's monogram is engraved upon the back of the case, 
while t^e inside contains this inscription, "Presented to Hon. 
David O. Watkins, Speaker, by the Members of the House of 
Assembly, New Jersey, 1899.'^ 

The committee appointed by the Legislature to procure a 
sword for presentation to Admiral Sampson, on behalf of the 
people of New Jersey, has practically decided on the design 
submitted by the firm of Simons & Co., of Philadelphia. The 
sword, which is to be a costly jeweled aflfair, is to be designed 
and constructed under the regulations prescribed by the United 
States Navy. It will be entirely of 18 karat gold, silver and 
nickel steel. 



Charles Crick, formerly in business with Sam Till, in the 
Eichbaum Building, has withdrawn from the firm. Mr. Till is 
now advertising for a new partner. 

Max P. Wilson, of Indiana, Pa., was in the city during the 
week making purchases for his new store preparatory to his 
Eastern trip of three weeks. 



PHILADELPHIA 

A window in the jewelry store of William Silverstone, 928 
Locust street, was shattered on Thursday, and plunder valued at 
$60 taken by the thief, who escaped. 

Judge Dallas heard argument last week in the case of Roy L. 
Warren against John S. Casey and Murray S. Chism, who, 
the complainant alleged, were infringing on his patents in manu- 
facturing spectacle cases. The bill was dismissed, but Warren 
appealed. Decision was reserved. 

A number of prominent jewelers of this city spent Easter Sun- 
day at Atlantic City. Among those registered at the Rudolph 
were J. Warner Hutchins, L. P. White, Wm. H. Long, H. T. 
Brieehl, Wm. T. Earle, J. E. Moore, Wm. Fullerton, Fred Bloch 
and J. E. Cadwallader. 

Geo. Garmon, of Coatesville, is looking about for a desirable 
location to start a jewelry store. Mr. Garmon is a brother of S. 
D. Garmon, of Eleventh and Sansom streets, Philadelphia, and 
has just finished his apprenticeship under the capable tuition of 
H. Garmon, his uncle, and the leading jeweler of Coatesville. 

Mr. Burg<heimer, formerly of the firm of Burgheimer & Gable, 
of Wilkesbarre, who sold out their jewelry stock at auction not 
long ago, contemplates starting in the business again. 

W. Harry Mortimer has bought the property in which his 
jewelry store is located on Centre street, Pottsville. The consid- 
eration is said to have been $40,000. Mr. Mortimer intends to 
rebuild shortly. 

Mr. Rexford, of Rexford & Co., of Scranton. which firm sold 
out at auction recently, has bought the silverware stock of C. J. 
Wickel, and will open a fine jewelry and silverware department in 
Mr. Wickel's store. Mr. Wickel deals in fine china and glass- 
ware. 

A. G. Lee, of Wanamaker's jewelry department, has been con- 
fined to his home with a severe attack of rheumatism. 

A special display of sterling silver of great richness and va- 
riety is being made at Bailey, Banks & Biddle Co.'s store. 
Twelfth and Chestnut streets. With the prospect of many Easter 
weddings, the exihibition is of unusual interest to those seeking 
rich and exclusive designs. The entire center of the big store is 
given over to the exposition, which is said to be the finest col- 
lection of silverware ever shown by a single firm. 

PITTSBURQ 

Robert Stoll, of New York, furnished the gold, silver and 
bronze medals for the Duqtiesne Garden. 

A. E. Siviter & Co , of the Verner Building, have added two 
new Diebold safes to their stock of fixtures. 

Hardy & Hayes have just completed putting down a magnifi- 
cent tile floor in their store room. 

A. Gabriel, formerly watchmaker with A. H. Gerwig, of the 
Verner Building, will open a store at Braddock, Pa. 

Sam Evans, formerly with Till & Crick, of the Eichbaum 
Btiilding, will take bench room with A. E. Siviter & Co., of the 
Verner Building. 



WASHINaTON, D. C. 

Among tlie contributors to the fund for the "Peace Jubilee" 
during the past week were the following jewelers: M. Gold- 
smith & Sons, S. Desio, E. L. Everett, M. Sahama and Moore & 
Leding. 

The opening of the new jewelry firm of W. C. Shaw Co., 1105 
F street, will take place Monday, April 10. W. C. Shaw will be 
president of the company and Charles E. Berry, for many years 
associated with Gait & Brother, will be secretary and treasurer. 

Moore & Leding have made an appeal to the Supreme Court 
.of the District in the controversy of a balance of $250, due on 
diamond earrings, purchased by Hulda Stewart, in which she was 
given a judgment for costs in a justice of peace court. Mrs. 
Stewart claimed that the jewels were not worfh the price asked 
and not flawless, as guaranteed. The case will be set for hearing 
at an earlv date. 

H. K. Fulton, 314 Ninth street, is having an auction of sale of 
unredeemed pledges, which commenced Tuesday, April 4th, and 
Bernard Burnstine, 361 Pennsylvania avenue, is also having a 
sale, which commenced Monday, April 3d. 

Michael Russell, a saloonkeeper, of New York, was arresrcd 
last Wednesday on the charge of having stolen a pair of diamond 
earrings, valued at $80, and a diamond horseshoe pin, valued at 
$40, from Salvatore Desio, 1012 F street. Northwest. Russell and 
a companion, it is claimed, entered Desio*s store and examined 
several trays of jewelry and diamonds. Later Mr. Desio missed 
the articles. On Thursday Russell was given a preliminary hear- 
ing and was bound over for the Grand Jury. 



NEW ENGLAND NEWS 

ntOM OUK SPBCIAL COUtBSPONDBim. 

BufiiieM and pertoua newt interesting to the tzade from the State* nader 
t|ie abore heading wiU be found in these oolvmns. We hare a special staff of 
correspondents in all the important centers, bnt are always glad to receive 
from onr readers items of news which they consider of general interest to 
members of the trade. Such notes should reach this office on Moiday morning. 

MA88ACHUSBTTS 

Lowell. — One of the prettiest windows displays shown in 
Lowell in a good many days is that at Wood's jewelry store. 
Articles in gold and silver, diamonds, watches, banquet lamps, 
fancy clocks, etc., are beautifully arranged in windows, the back- 
ground in which is of tufted white goods, studded with violets. 
A description of the three upper windows of Wood's big jewelry 
store would give but a meagre idea of their beauty. These win- 
dows are trimmed to properly display some of the goods included 
in the grand Easter opening sale which began this week. One 
entire window is devoted to a display of watches of all kinds. 

Shelburne Falls. — The boiler house, finishing room and 
stock, finished and unfinished, in the Lamson & Goodnow cut- 
lery works were damaged by fire and water Saturday morning 
to an estimated amount of $5,000. 

BOSTON 

Exports from the port of Boston for the week ending March 
24th amounted to $3,400,397, and included clocks to the value of 

$179. 

John Dwyer, thirty-five years old, living at 7 Bolton street. 
South Boston, was arrested by the Cambridge police on Friday 
morning in an attempt to rob the jewelry store of A. Judson Ap- 
plegate, at 571 Massachusetts avenue, Cambridge. 

An important capture was made by the Boston police on Tues- 
day evening, when George W. Preston, Edward H. Wilson and 
Clifford H. LaBelle were arrested. It is believed that these men 
are responsible for the daring diamond robbery committed in 
Brockton a few weeks 3 go, an account of which was published in 
these columns ai the time. 



Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



April 5, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



435 



At last the case of the American Waltham Watch Company 
against the United States Watch Company, of Waltham, is set- 
Utd. This case has been dragging along in the Massachusetts 
courts for a long tiroe It has been watched with the greatest 
interest by all concerned in the matter. The conclusion was 
reached on Thursday, when the final decree was handed down 
by Justice Marcus P. Knowlton, of the Supreme Judicial Court. 
This is an injunction against the defendant company, and may 
be said to be a complete victory for the American Waltham Watch 
Company. It will be remembered that in the issue of The Re- 
view of March 8 the decision of the full bench of the Supreme 
Court in favor of the plaintiff was published. Many interest- 
ing law points were discussed and disposed of in the opinion 
handed down, and were read by the trade far and wide. Thurs- 
day's proceedings in court were very brief and consisted merely 
of appearance of counsel and the reading of the decree. 

There have been several interesting changes in the office of 
Tiffany & Wales, Jewelers' Building, within the last few weeks. 
A large new safe, uniform in size and design with the others 
in the row has been added. Over the safes there has been built a 
gallery extending the full length of the office. At the other side 



of the room John B. Humphrey, the diamond cutter and dealer, 
has established his office. Mr. Humphrey has been moving in 
for a week and more, and it will be some time yet before he is 
completely settled in his new quarters. Mr. Humphrey was lo- 
cated for many years at 383 Washington street. It is understood 
that Charles E. Guild, who has had his office with Tiffany & 
Wales since that firm moved into the new building, will retire 
from the diamond business at the end of the present month. 

Arthur H. Pray, the well-known diamond dealer, accom- 
panied by Mrs. Pray, left recently for an extended trip through 
the South. 

It is stated in Boston that a dividend of thirty per cent, will 
soon be declared to the stockholders of the Electrolytic Marine 
Salts Company, the company fostered by Rev. P. F. Jernegan. 
All of the outstanding stock of the company has been turned over 
to the committee with the exception of 21,000 shares, and it is 
expected that these will soon be deposited. The committee now 
has in its possession $387,000 outside of the company's plant 
and supplies. This includes $75,000 which has been returned by 
the missing Jernegan. Jernegan returned this amount in securi- 
ties selling at a premium. 




tiK Optician's fiandbook 

Being an Introduction to tbe study of 
the Refraction of the Bye, its Anoma- 
lies and their Estimation and Correc- 
tion by means of Glasses. 

By an Ophtiialinic Surgeon* 
Will be aMt post free on receipt of $1.00 

FROM THE JEWELERS REVIEW. 
170 BROADWAY, New York. 



50 YEARS- 
EXPERIENCE 




Trade Marks 

Designs 
... Copyrights Ac. 

Anyone sending a sketch and description may 
qnfcklT ascertain onr opinion free whether an 
InTontlon is probahly patentable. Communica- 
tions strictly oonfldentua. Handbook on PatenU 
sent free. Oldest agency for secartng patenta. 

Patents taken tnroafrh Munn A Co. receive 
tpeelal noties, without charRe, In the 

Scietifific Anterlcam 

A handsomely Illustrated weekly. I^rRest cir- 
culation of any scientific journal. Terms, 93 a 
year : four months, 9L Sold by all newsdealers. 

' Co.»«"»«-^- New York 

loe. e» F St^ Washington, D. C. 



(lOCK HAIPSPRINGS 



#^ESTABLISHE0I87?:^ 

hRGCSi Mfr or Hairsprings IN IS 



THE CLOCK REPAIIterS A880»TIIENT CABINETS 
•contain 50 or 100 finished hairsprings com- 
plete, all sizes and makes, carefuUT arranffed, 
full directions. Cabinet of 50, $1.00 ; 100; 
$1.75, br maiL Same springs, any sixe or 
make, 80 cts. per doz., 20 cts. per half doz. 
Steam Gauge Hairsprings of every descrip- 
tion. Phosphor Bronze Hairsprings for Elec- 
trical Instruments, etc. Ask your jobbers lor 
tiMOk P.N.MANR08S.F«rMihrllio»Coiui. 



The Sumner-Qrimes Co. 




204. Superior St. 
Cleveland, Ohio. 

¥¥¥ 



Our prices and the style and 
quality of our 



<m Cadi»' aid 6eMt$' 

€l)aiii$ 

will be a surprise to you* 
Write tis. 

THEY WEAR AND THEY SELL. 



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I l)Ottl JUiderson 

PITTSBURGH, PA. 

I Centrally located and easily accessible to 
1 business part of the city. 

I AMPLE SECURITY TO 

JEWELERS' SAMPLES. 

I American Plan. $3.00 to $5.00 a day. 

HENRY McKINNIE. \ 



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M. A. GrRO^JfJ <& BRO. 

IMPORTERS AND CUTTERS OF 

— .^DIAMONDS 

FACTORY : 39 Gold St. OFFICE : 83-84 Nassau 5t , NEW YORK. 

CABLE ADDRESS, OFUSCACION. 



REMOVAL 



MamifacUirars 
of 



H. & £• O. BELAI8 

DIAMOND MOUNT/NGS 

Ar. ..* .t 47 JOHN STREET, New York. 



DESIGNS FOR ODD MOUNTINGS A SPECIALTY. 



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436 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 5, 1899 



Annual Meeting of the Stockholders of the American 
Waltham Watch Company. — The annual meeting of the stock- 
holders of the American Waltham Watch Company was held at 
the factory in Waltham on Thursday, March 30th, at 2:30 o'clock. 
President Ezra C. Fitch presided. The meeting was formal, and 
consisted of hearing the reports of of^cers and the annual elec- 
tion. Treasurer Royal E. Robbins presented the report of the 
financial condition of the company. 



THE ATTLBBOROS 

During the past week the representatives 

The Proposed of the jewelry trust promoters, Frank Cady, 
Jewelry of Norton, Mass., and William Wilkinson, of 

Combinetlon New York, have visited all the local houses to 
secure their opinion on such an organization. 
They have not met with any great success as yet, though they 
have secured the assent of a large proportion of the local jew- 
elers to be present at the first meeting of those interested in join- 
ing the combination next Saturday morning at 10 A. M. at the 
Narragansett Hotel, Providence. Nearly every jeweler in this 
section has been canvassed by either Mr. Cady or Mr. Wilkinson, 
with what success cannot be stated until after the preliminary 
meeting next week in Providence. It seems to be certain, how- 
ever, that a large number of Attleboro jewelers will attend this 
meeting, and if they see that the combination is likely to 
be a thorough one, one that will succeed, the chances are 
that a good many, if not all, of them will enter the combination. 
Tbere is not a single one at present, however, that will admit that 
he has much belief in the scheme or has any idea of entering? it. 

Encouraging reports have been received from George L. 
Bacon j of Bates & Bacon, who is at present sojourning in Ari- 
zona for his health. 

Horace Durgin, of George H. Herrick & Co., left Monday 
morning for New Hampshire. 

The new factory of Proctor E. Wetherell is at last completed 
except for a few minor details, and Mr. Wetherell expects to be 
installed there by the first week in next month. 

Elton I. Franklin, of E. I. Franklin & Co., is at present in 
Florid^ for his health. Before returning home he intends to pay 
a visit to Havana. 

A thermostat system was installed this week in the factory of 
W. D. Wilmarth & Co. 

E. J. Qvarnstrom, of Qvarnstrom, Carter & Remington, has 
been elected vice-president of the Young Men's Sunday Evening 
Club. 

The Lenau Company, manufacturers of sterling silver novel- 
ties, located at Attleboro Falls, has been sold, with all business 
and assets, to a new company known as Lenau, Thomas & Com- 
pany. The new firm consists of Louis F. Lenau and Eugene E. 
Thomas, Jr., and W. N. Fisher, of W. N. Fisher & Co., chain 
' trimmings manufacturers. 

Harry Kiehn, representing Tiffany & Co., of New York, has 
been in town for the last few days placing orders with many of 
the local firms. 

There is considerable competition to secure the location of 
the Attleboro post office. J. E. Blake, of the James E. Blake 
Company, and Jos. Bates, of Bates Si Bacon, were among the 
bidders for the location. Mr. Bates seems to be the more likely 
to secure it. 

Harry Kiehn. representing Tiffany & Co., of New York, was 
in town last week placing orders among the local manufacturers. 

C. E. Haywood is putting the upper floor of his new factory 
in shape for the Attleboro Manufacturing Company to use as a 
packing room. 

E. I. Franklin, of E. I. Franklin & Co., and wife are at pres- 
ent in the South. Mr. Franklin intends to take a trip to Havana 
before returning. 

K- .T- Qvarnstrom, of Qvarnstrom, Carter & Remington; E. 
..D. Gilmore, of E. D. Gilmore v^ Co.: David E. Makepeace; H. 
A. Clark, of Horton. Angell & Co.; Albert Bushec, of A. A. 
Bushee & Co.; H. P. Kent, of F. W. Weaver & Co., and M. H- 
Rowc have been elected officers of the M^n's Sunday Even'n"^ 
Club. 



The factory of H. F. Barrows & Co. closed Friday evening 
for one week to take account of stock. 

A few weeks ago tlie firm of R. F. Simmons & Co., of this town, 
designed a new bracelet, and in honor of the actress. Miss Julia 
Marlowe, called it the Marlowe bracelet. Last week a letter was 
received from Miss Marlowe herself thanking them for the honor 
conferred on her and expressing the highest praise for the beauty 
of the article. 

• The factory of E. I. Franklin & Co. is to go on an eight hour 
schedule this week. 

The marriage of Winthrop F. Barden, of Plainville, junior 
partner in the firm of Chapman & Bardeh, to Miss K. Louise 
Bronson, daughter of Dr. John Bronson, will take place April 12. 

It is stated on good authority that prominent parties are ar- 
ranging to combine capital with Henry D. Merritt to do a man- 
ufacturing jewelry business under the old firm name of H. D. 
Merritt & Co. The parties are looking for quarters in the Attle- 
boros. 

John Trainor has purchased a large lot on Dunham street with 
the intention of erecting a large factory building for jewelry pur- 
t>oses. 

A new jewelry firm, S. M. Einstein & Co., who will do a gen- 
eral jobbing business, have taken the upper floor of Walter Hay- 
ward's new factory on Union street. 

The wedding of Miss Josephine Codding, daugliter of David 
Codding, of D. E. Codding & Co., to Edwin H. Cummings, a 
North Attleboro jeweler, has been set for the 19th. 

S. O. Bigney, of S. O. Bigney & Co., Provi<dence; H. A. 
Clark, of Horton, Angell 81 Co., and David E. Makepeace, have 
been appointed on a committee to solicit funds among the jew- 
elers for the public reception which Attleboro is to give to Co. I, 
Fifth Massachusetts, regiment. 

The Lenau Company, of Attleboro Falls, manufacturers of 
sterling silver novelties, has been sold with all business and assets 
to the Lenau, Thomas Company, which is composed of Louis F. 
Lenau and Eugene E. Thomas, and W. N. Fisher, of W. N. 
Fisher & Co., chain trimmings manufacturers. 

The following were elected town officials of North Attle- 
boro at the annal town meeting last week: 

C. T. Guild, of the Guild Machine Company; Arthur E. Cod- 
ding, of the Codding & HeilboriTCompany; John H. Peckham, 
of Palmer & Peckham; E. D. Sturtevant, of Sturtevant, Whiting 
& Bigelow; Stephen Stanley, of Stanley Brothers; Alpin Chis- 
holm, treasurer of the Bugbee & Niles Co.; T. G. Sandland, of 
Sandland, Capron & Co. 

O. W. Hawkins is now represented on the road by Fred. H. 
Perry, formerly with the Torrey Jewelry Company. The latter 
is now represented by Fred. L. Torrey. 

Hed)ert C. Bliss, of Bliss Brothers, and wife, who have been 
visiting in Milwaukee, have returned home. 

E. H.. Selfridge, of Worcester, a traveling salesman, has been 
visiting in town during the last week. 

E. I. Franklin, of E. I. Franklin & Co., and wife have gone 
to New York to remain six weeks. 

This week has witnessed an exodus of traveling men from 
this town, the following having started for the West: 

W. C. Tappan, for the D. F. Briggs Co.; Arthut Dolan, for 
Dolan & Co.; Arthur Sturdy, for William Nerney & Co.; Fred. 
H. Perry, for O. W. Hawkins & Co.; Jesse Carpenter, for Hor- 
ton, Angell & Co.: A. A. Ellis, for Ellis & Co.; Charles H. 
Allen, for C. H. Allen & Co.; George N. Barrows, for Mac- 
donald & Culver. 

OIney F. Dolan, of Dolan & Co., has been appointed admin- 
istrator of the estate of Bridget Curtis. 

Robert Myers returned Saturday from his initial trip as East- 
ern representative of the Wendell Manufacturing Company of 
Chicago. 

Charles A. Clifford, a Mansfield jeweler, has an exhibition of 
Spanish souvenir coins in his window which has attracted con- 
siderable attention. 

John ShepfHfdson, formerly connected with H. D. Merritt & 
Co., has beefr'riominated for Selectman of Mansfield. 

It is understood that James E. Blake, of the James E. Blake 
Company, is considering the advisability of erecting another 
large factory for the purpose of rental. 



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April 5. 1S99 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



437 



PROVMNBNCB 

The Providence County Grand Jury, formed a week ago to 
consider cases to come before the Supreme Court, reported on 
Monday morning before Judge Wilbur. There were a number of 
interesting indictments found, among them one against Adeline 
Harvey for poisoning food with intent to kill. As detailed in 
these columns last week, this 14 year old girl is the daughter of 
James Harvey, the engineer at the works of the Standard Seam- 
less Wire Company, and the attempt was made by his daughter 
to poison him by putting creosote in his dinner. 

The detective department of this city is investigating the lar- 
ceny of a piece of lead pipe from the refinery of Otis Brothers on 
Thursday last. The pipe was valued at 98 cents, and the detectives 
have learned that the thief disposed of it at the place of Abraham 
Bazar, on Willard avenue, later for $1.08. Naturally Mr. Bazar 
is as deeply interested in the apprehension of the culprit as any- 
one else. 

On Wednesday last the employees of W. & S. Blackington 
remembered the birthday of the superintendent of the factory. 
Amos S. Blackington, in a substantial way. During the ntM>n 
hour Mr. Blackington was called into a room where the em- 
ployees had assembled and was made the recipient of a purse 
containing $100. 

The factory of W. & S. Blackington has closed down for the 
annual stocktaking. 

The Gorham Manufacturing Company dosed down on Sat- 
urday last because the majority of the employees desired to see 
the parade of the returning Rhode Island volunteers and had not 
shown up at work. 

T. C. Tucker & Co., manufacturers of plated goods, have re- 
moved from 193 Richmond street, to 25 Calendar street. 

W. F. Almy has accepted a position as traveling salesman 
with Horace Remington & Son. 

D. F. Chapman, formerly in the employ of William Loeb & 
Co., has started in business at 59 Page street. 

A. H. Thurber & Co. is the caption under which a new firm 
has begun business at 59 Page street. Their line will be gen- 
eral plated good^. George H. Allen, formerly salesman for the 
New Englaftd f earl Company, has been secured as salesman. 
T-he guperifitendence of the factory will be vested in Martin L. 
Rea^, formerly a manufacturer of this city, but more recently 
at Riverside. 

Superintendent Baker, of the Gorham Manufacturing Com- 
pany, is quite seriously ill. 

The Manufacturing Jewelers' Salesmen's Association has ar- 
ranged for a most pleasant occasion on Thursday. The annual 
meeting with election of officers will take place in the afte-noon, 
and in the evening a complimentary ball to the ladies is to be 
given. 

Such liberal inducements have been made to Samuel J. 
. Weeden & Co., of Riverside, by the residents of the village, that 
the firm relocate in the place, that they have already taken pos- 
session of the shop formerly occupied by the Riverside Novelty 
Company, the latter having moved to this city. 

A large number of the jewelry establishments of Providence 
and neighboring towns shut down Saturday in order to allow 
the operatives an opportunity to see the parade of the First 
Rhode Island Regiment, which on that day returned to Provi- 
dence after an absence of nearly eleven months. Among the 
officers and men of the regiment were a number of men who left 
their benches in the jewelry shops at the call to arms, and the 
friends of those men turned out to give them a royal welcome. 
The magnificent bronze tablet to the memory of the late Rev. 
Walter Gardner Webster, who lost his life in the La Bourgogne 
disaster, was unveiled in St. Stephen's church last Saturday 
evening during the Easter Even service. The tablet was made 
by the Gorham Manufacturing Company, on order of Tilden & 
Thurber. the well-known local jewelry house, and was in Gothic 
style with a background of green Vermont marble, cut to a 
point. On this is a canopied framework of b. _.ize of Corinthian 
finish, surmounted by floriated crosses inside the brass work. 
On the brass work the inscription is cut and filled with enamel 
of red and black. 



Monday morning of this week Simon Massell, a jeweler, unt'l 
a short time ago in the employ of the Ostby & Barton Company, 
stabbed his wife with a three-inch blade clasp knife. The affair 
took place at the residence of Mrs. Massell's father, where the 
young woman had gone after separating from her husband a 
few days previous. The stabbing was said to be the result of 
jealousy on the part of the husband, who was arrested before he 
had an opportunity to escape. Mrs. Massell was taken to the 
Rhode Island Hospital, but the chances are against her recov- 
ery, in which case the husband will be called to answer to the 
charge of murder. 

WALTHAM 

Samuel E. Clark, formerly of the Custom House, Boston, 
Mass., has assumed his old position at the Amierican Waltham 
Watch Company. 

John J. Egan, optician in tdiis city, has improved and enlarged 
his quarters. 

Charles E. Myers, jeweler, at Bridgeport, Conn., is visiting 
this city. 

A large party of New York city jeweJers visited the works of 
the American Waltham Watch Company last week. 

H. D. Leyden, jeweler, at Albany, N. Y., is spending a short 
vacation in this city. 

W. R. Barlow, manufacturer of watch materials at Birmini?- 
ham, Eng., is visiting this city. 

The annual meeting of the stockholders of the American 
Waltham Watch Company was held last Thursday afternoon in 
this city and was largely attended. 

Fred W. Derbyshire, assistant superintendent of the American 
Watch Tool Company of this city, concluded his services with 
rhat company last week after twenty-five years of faithful serv- 
ice. Previous to retiring he was presented by the employees of 
the company with a gold watch and chain as a testimonial of their 
good will. 

The students of the Waltham Horological School vish«d the 
works of the American Waltham Watch Company last Wednes- 
day afternoon. 

Charles E. Mackay, formerly a jeweler at Akoona, Pa., has 
entered the employ of the American Walfthasm Watch Company. 

Henry Bond, formerly purchasing agent for the American 
Waltham Watch Company, is visiting friends in this city. 

L. R. Graham, jeweler, at Montreal, Can., is spending a short 
vacation in this city. 

Several departments in the watch industries in this city are 
working nights until 10 o'clock, and from the large orders which 
are being constantly received in all the factories in the city night 
work probably may be required before long. 



REVIEW ITEMS. 
Under the above heading we cive such itemi as we may deem of ceaeral 
interest to the trade which do not come into onr other departments. Short 
descriptions of the opening of new hosinees premises, and miscellaneoiu items 
of all and sondry descriptions will find a place in these oolnmns. 

We have received from the Chicago and Aurora Smelting 
and Refining Company, a circular which from its novelty will, 
we are sure, command the attention of those receiving it. In 
shape it is the same as an ordinary envelope with a flap which 
tucks in. On opening it is a bold design with the announcement 
"Several reasons why Aurora smeltings are the best." Inside 
are the reasons in the shape of half-tone pictures of the works 
and offices of the Company at Aurora, Chicago and Leadville. 
The circular is a unique one, and to make it complete a 
gummed and tag label are enclosed which may be used in 
sending consignments to the company. 

Robert Burnham, dealer in precious stones and minerals, of 
121 Camp street. Providence, possesses some exceptional quali- 
fications for that business. He is an expert judge of gems, a 
qualification gained by experience in the mining fields as well as 
a thorough knowledge of the various processes of cutting and 
polishing. 

Most of the cheaper imitations of precious stones come Irom 
a country famous for its other glassware, Bohemia. 



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438 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 5, 1899 



HERE AND THERE 

John A. Miller, of Cairo, 111., left on the steamship Rotterdam 
on the 1st inst. for an extended trip to Europe. 

Mayor McMurray, of Denver, Colo., has signed the bill 
which will compel the pawnbrokers of that city to pay a license 
oi $300 per year, and to keep a strict record of all transactions 
for the inspection of the police department. 

The severe illness is reported of O. Kohlstadt, the veteran 
jewelryman of Pleasant Hill, Mo. 

The legislature of Missouri has passed a bill which limits the 
amount of commission which can be charged by pawnbrokers, 
etc., to 2 per cent, per month, and making it a misdemeanor for 
any pawnbroker to charge over that. 

Jewelry manufacturers of Providence, R. I., and Attleboro, 
Mass., are organizing a trust to do away with trade abuses and 
to save expenses in distribution and management. 

Mr. Carl B. Reed, of Shell Rock, Ark., has accepted a po- 
sition at Lime Springs. 

Bert Rigby has charge of the jewelry department at T. J. 
Van Meter's, Andrew, la. He is the only jeweler in town. 

Oculist Izatt has removed his business from Cedar Rapids, 
la., to Nearson City. 

F. C. Clemow, of the firm of Powell & Clemow, Ottawa, 
Ont., is dead. He died suddenly of paralysis at the Wayne Ho- 
tel, Detroit. Mr. Clemow was about 60 years old. 

About forty employees of the Anchor Silver Plate Com- 
pany, of Oswego, N. Y., are out because of a reduction in wages. 

Birkbak*s jewelry store, Waverly, Minn., was damaged by 
fire last week. 

A novelty in the way of a striking watch is being manufac- 
tured by Andrew Fisher, a west side jeweler of Chelsea, Mich. 

Malcolm H. Rees, a former jeweler at 207 East Fayette street, 
Syracuse, N. Y., has brought suit against Rebecca Cohen, who 
conducts a jewelry store in Kirk's Block, for $2,000 damages 
for false imprisonment and conspiracy. 

The store of the National Supply Company, Detroit, Mich., 
was damaged by fire last week. 

Chas. L. Taylor, for many years in the jewelry business in 
Sedalia, Mo., has been appointed inspector of watches for the 
Missouri, Kansas & Texas Railroad Company. 

H. B. Shellito & Co., Sault Ste. Marie, Mich., have removed 
to their new quarters in the Mead & Fowle block. 

S. R. Castleman's jewelry store, Zanesville, O., was entered 
by burglars last week and about $40 worth of jewelry stolen. 

The stock of the National Supply Company, Detroit, Mich., 
was damaged by fire last week. 

Joseph Vetre, jeweler, of New Paris, O., is quite sick wi^h 
lung fever. 

Monday the firm of M. E. Nabstedt & Sons, manufacturing 
jewelers, of iii West Second street, Davenport, la., made the 
largest purchase of gold bullion ever known in the history of 
this city. 

Anderson Brothers, jewelers, have moved into their new 
house at Auburn, Cal. 

A. H. Furstnow, of the firm of A. H. Furstnow & Co., manu- 
facturing jewelers, Fond du Lac, Wis., states that he will leave 
in a short time to visit the Eastern cities of the United States, 
where he will spend a month or two in buying new machinery. 

V. A. Glotzbach, manufacturing jeweler, who was burned out 
a short time ago, has opened in the building opposite the "New 
Era" office at Monterey, Cal. 



DEEDS AND MORTGAGES 

C. K. French, Who has a jewelry store in Phoenix, Ariz., has 
given chattel mortgages on his stock for $1,360. 

The jewelry firm of Mauck & Adams, in Marshall, Mo., has 
just purchiised real estate valued at $6,000 and given a realty 
trust deed on same for $5,000. 

A chattel mortgage on fixtures for $151 has been given by 
D. Dinnelly, Terrell, Tex. 

H. Lichtenstein, of the jewelry firm of H. Sc E. Lichtensteiq 
Salt Lake City, Utah, has given a deed to E. Lichtenstein for ^>' 



NEV BUSINESS VENTURES 

Among the new corporations securing charters during the 
past week was the Harvard Stamping and Plating Company, of, 
Cambridge. N. F. Humphrey is president of the new organiza- 
tion, and T. J. Paine is treasurer. The company is capitalized for 
$5,000. 

The Fred. G. Sutor Company was incorporated in Camden,. 
N. J., last week. Capital $50,000. The incorporators are Fred. G. 
Sutor, Philadelphia; J. J. W. Reynolds, Metuchen, and Jno. L. 
White, Toms River, N. J. 

Ed. Kennerdell, of Tarentum, Pa., will open a new store this 
week at Salem, O. 

A. G. Hamilton has opened a jewelry store at Wallaceburg, 
Ont. 

John A. Seedorf, Elgin, 111., is preparing to open a store in 
Rockford. He will carry a stock of medium and high grade 
jewelry. 

The Western Clock Company, Peru, 111., are to build an ad- 
dition to their plant to cost about $5,000. The building will be 
used for a machine and plating shop. 

Ingersoll & Sheppard have opened a jewelry store at Marion, 
111. 

G. S. Hallenbeck will open at Chebanse, 111. 

C. R. Parish has removed from Columbus, O., to Urbana. 

E. A. Tharnish has opened a jewelry store in Atlantic, la. 
Joihn Hirshbtrg has associated himself with Harry Morris at 

Steriing, 111. 

A jewelry store has been opened by Charles Lee at Walworth, 
Wis. 

L. A. Herrick, Sparta, Wis., has removed his store to his new 
building on N. Water street. 

O. L. Sharick, of Shelby, O., has gone to Juneau, Alaska, 
where he will engage in the jewelry business. 

F. B. Means will open a jewelry store in Colfax, 111. 

The Meriden Britannia Company have received the contract 
for fitting out the new Westminster apartment house on Copley 
square, Boston. The order was secured through A. Barber, the 
Boston representative. 

The improvements and decorating of J. Liebenow's jewelry 
store, at Green Bay, Wis., have been completed. 

After two months spent in repairing the damage caused by 
fire, Scott & Co., Ottumwa, la., have reopened their jewelry 
store. They will continue the manufacture of emblems, pins, 
medals, etc. 

Articles of incorporation have been applied for in the Camden 
County Court of New Jersey by Fred G. Sutor, diamond and jew- 
elry merchant, at Tenth and Chestnut streets, Philadelphia, for 
a company capitalized at $50,000. The company will be known 
as the Fred G. Sutor Company, and will be organized this week. 
Forty thousand dollars of the stock will be fully paid and the re- 
maining $10,000 is to be used as a reserve fund. Offices will be 
maintained in Philadelphia, Washington and New York. 



BUSINESS CHANGES 

E. C. Carter, Duluth, Minn., has sold out his business. 

Fay R. Smith, formerly of Davenport, la., has formed a part- 
nership with G. R. Strickland and will open a jewelry store at 
New London, Wis. 

Martin Bros., Rochester, Minn., have removed to Ohillicothe, 
111. 

Hempel & Arends are successors of M. M. Hertstein in his 
business at Crete, Neb. 

Walter & Hafner Jewelry Company, a firm of Smithville, 
Tex., has sold out its entire business. 

E. A. Griffin has sold out his stock of jewelry in Oakland, 
Neb., to G. J. Hanson & Co. 

Mrs. W. De Noyellos has moved her stock from the old lo- 
cal'on in Go!dfield, la. 

Robert Dunlap has sold out his stock of jewelry in Salmon 
City, Idaho. 

W. A. Fisher, of Franklin, Pa., has sold out his store and fix- 
tures. He will discontinue business temporarily. 



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April 5, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



439 



BUSINESS TROUBLES 

Joseph W. Field, a jeweler, of Galveston, Tex., has been sued 
for $287. 

G. A. Bnimmer, of the firm of Brummer Brothers. Clinton, 
la., has been sued for $186, and his brother of the same firm has 
also been sued for $106. 

Saturday closed the last day of the auction sale of the stock 
of Charles Corcoran, of Wood street, Pittsburg:, Pa., w'ho re- 
cently filed a petition in bankruptcy. 

The litigation between M. C. Eppenstein, secretary of the 
Elgin Watch Case Company, Elgin, 111., and ex-President T. W. 
Duncan, has been settled. The suit of the Watch Case Company 
against Duncan has ako been dropped. 

Last Thursday the Bowen-Macomber Company, manufac- 
turers of jewelers' tools, etc., at 203 Eddy street. Providence, 
made an assignment for the benefit of its creditors. The as- 
signee is Ashbel T. Wall, of the firm of A. T. Wall & Co., of loi 
Sabih street. 

The petition of the creditors of L. A. Scherr & Co., 726 Chest- 
nut street, Philadelphia, for the appointment of a receiver, which 
was to have been filed on the 27th inst, has been postponed. 

General Assignments in Massachusetts. — ^The following 
circular has been issued to members by the New York Jewelers' 
Board of Trade: 

New York, N. Y., AprtI 3, 1899. 
In re General Assignments in Massachusetts. 
To Members: 

It is common in Massachusetts to make a general assignment. 

As these assignments are not filed in Court, the creditors are 
the first to receive notice of them, and usually at the same time 
receive a blank form for them to execute accepting the assign' 
ment, and thereby becoming parties to it. 

Some creditors sign these acceptances supposing it is neces- 
sary to do so. It is only necessary when you are willing to accept 
the consequences and be bound thereby. 

In a recent case in bankruptcy. Judge Lowell, of the United 
States District Court, has decided that 



"Creditors who have assented to a general assignment cannot 
become petitioning creditors in involuntary bankruptcy proceed- 
ings against the assigning debtor." 

Under this decision we advise members to refer all such cases 
to the Board for investigation before accenting. 
Yours Respectfully, 

The New York Jewelers' Board of Trade. 

D. L. Safford, Secretary. 

NEWS OF THE LAKE STATES 

reoM ovK sraciAx. coBjmroMDBim. 

fmde newt aid tmsloeM and pertonal itun» from thoM Stetot bordiriiic 
on the Lakes will be lonnd under this head. These States include Minnesota, 
Wisconsin, Iowa, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois and Ohio. We shall welcome any 
items of general interest from our readers, which shonld reach us not later 
than Monday morning. 

CHICAGO 

One of Chicago's city fathers, stirred by a righteous indigna- 
tion at several cases of "fence," which have been brought to light 
lately, particularly that of Ralph L. Ostrander, has allowed his 
very just wrath to get the better of h'is judgment, and has pro- 
posed a measure which, if, by a remote chance, adopted, would 
fall like the rain from heaven on the just and l?he unjust alike — 
and the number of the just is legion. This Alderman — Conlon 
by name — introduced on March 6th an ordinance before the 
Common Council providing for an exorbitant license to be paid 
by all who buy old gold and silver, and making necessary a 
careful record and report to Police Headquarters of all purchases. 
Following are the provisions of the ordinance: 

Section i. That the Mayor may from time to time grant li- 
censes to such persons as shall produce to him satisfactory evi- 
dence of their good character to exercise and carry on the busi- 
ness of buying old gold and silver in any form whatsoever; and 
no person shsdl exercise or carry on the aforesaid business with- 
out being duly licensed, under the penalty of one hundred (100) 
dollars for each day he or she shall carry on such business with- 
out such license. 

Sec. 2. Every person receiving such license shall pay therefor 
the sum of two hundred dollars for the use of the city. 

Sec. 3. Every person so licensed shall at the time of receiv- 



NATIONAL MONTHLY SUMMARY OF COMMERCE 

The ** Monthly Summary of Commerce and Finance of the United States," for February, corrected to March 31, 1899, will con- 
tain the following of interest to the jewelry trade : 



EXPORTS OF DOMESTIC MERCHANDISE. 



ARTICLES. 



Clocks and Watches : 

Clocks and parts of 

Watches and parts of 

Total 

Jewelry and other manufactures of 
gold and silver : 

Jewelry •. 

Other manufactures of gold and 
silver 

Total 



February— 



1896. 



Value. 

$70,828 
56,606 



$127,634 

M,a68 

11,2:5 

$66,648 



1899. 



Value. 

$78,014 
48,685 



$114,649 

72,929 
11,517 



$84,446 



Bight months end- 
ing February— 



1898. 



Value. 

$681,533 
487,665 



$1,119,198 

891,896 
1I7JK64 



$489,578 



Value. 

$686,007 
582,887 



$1,218,894 

461.804 
166,912 



$497,068 



EXPORTS OF FOREIGN MERCHANDISE. 



Clocks and Watches and parts of (dut ): 
Clocks and parts of. 




87 


$608 
1,266 


$281 
232 


Watche. and watch material, etc. . . 


$18 


Total 


$18 
800 


$61 


$1,768 
809 


$463 
406 


Jewelry, manufactures of gold and sil- 
ver, and precious stones : 

Diamonds, n. e. s , not set (dut J. . . . 
Other precious sto .es, rough or un- 
cut (free) 


Other precious stones and Imitations 

of, not set (dut.) 

Jewelry and manufactures of gold 

and Silver (dut.) 


288 


10,006 
861 


7,214 

7,885 


49,415 
19.691 


Total 

Cutlery 


$688 

49 


$10,861 
1,774 


$16,858 
9,872 


$69,511 
6,710 





• IMPORTS. 



ARTICLES AND COUNTRIES. 



Clocks and watches and parts of (dut.) : 

Clocks and parts of 

Watches and parts of 

Total, 

Jewelry, manufactures of gold and sil- 
ver, and precious stones : 

Diamonds, uncut, including miners', 
etc., not set (free) 

Diamonds, cut, but not set (dut.) . . 

Other precious stones, rough or un- 
cut (tree) 

Other precious stones, cut, but not 
set (dut.) 

Jewelry, and manufactures of gold 
and silver (dut.) 

Total 

Precious Stones, etc. (free) imported 
from : 

United Kingdom 

France. .. 

Netherlands 

Other Europe 

Brazil 

Other countries. 

Total 

Jewelry and other precious stones, etc. 
(dutiable), imported from : 

United Kingdom 

France 

Germany 

Netherlands 

Other Europe 

British North America 

Mexico 

East Indies 

Other countries 

ToUl 

Cutlery 



February— 



1696. 



Value. 
$16,076 
41,700 



$57,886 

269.966 
248,886 

4,402 

147,288 

92,8-36 



$762,766 



47.657 

18,176 

210,179 

8.1 



124 



$274,867 



145,020 

192,097 

41,203 

56,105 

68,995 

478 

887 

8 

165 



1899. 



Value. 
$18,884 
66,768 



$00,587 

1,018,880 
661,154 

2,691 

181,856 

264,267 



$2,058,847 



766,597 

14,588 

240,601 

880 



$1,021,571 



176.448 

871,072 

4?,700 

198,264 

241.66S 

271 

1,082 

20 

271 



Eight months end 
ing February— 



1898. 



Value. 
$220,698 
459.610 



$680,808 

8,r0,076 
8,620,968 

16,071 

1,666,(97 

814,128 



$8,878,285 



998.668 

111,712 

1,109,456 

67.805 

1.303 

2,808 



$9,286,147 



1.609.264 

1,858.147 

878.112 

1,714,711 

486,666 

91.008 

4,693 

881 

8.196 



$488,898 $1,036,776 $6,092,088 
79765 87.798t 590,284 



1899. 



Value 
$206 011 
715,580 



$921,641 

2,417,8;T> 
5,666,706 

28 652 

1,811,828 

1,749,998 



11,188,969 



1.488,002 

57.608 

887.900 

4,822 



$2,441,027 



2,274 247 

2,801,489 

570.694 

2,389.328 

786,660 

2.190 

8,667 

7.142 

12,606 



$8,747,962 

747.278 



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440 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 5, 1899 



ing such license enter with two (2) sufficient sureties into a joint 
and separate bond with the City of Chicago in the pemalty of 
five hundred ($500) dollars conditioned for the due observance 
of all ordinances as may be passed or in force respecting said 
business at any time during the continuance of such license. 

Sec. 4, Every i>erson licensed as aforesaid shall keep a book 
in which shall be fairly written in ink a complete and accurate 
record of all purchases of old gold and silver made, driving the 
amount paid for each article and the name and the address of the 
person from whom purchased. 

Sec. 5. The said book or record, as well as every or any arti- 
cle purchased, shall at all times be open to the inspection of the 
Mayor or any member of the police force. 

Sec. 6. Every person licensed as aforesaid who shall violate 
or neglect or refuse to comply with any or either of the provis- 
ions or sections of this article when no other penalty is imposed, 
shall for every such ofitnsc forfeit and pay the sum of twenty- 
five ($25) dollars. 

Sec. 7. It shall be the duty of every person licensed as afore- 
said to make out and deliver to the Superintendent of Police 
every day before the hour of twelve (12) A. M. a legible and 
correct copy from the book required in section four (4) hereof of 
all purchases made during the preceding day, together with the 
time (meaning the hour) when received or purchased, and a de- 
scription of the person or persons from whom purchased. 

Sec. 8. Any properly purchased, as aforesaid, shall not be soid 
or so used as to destroy its identity for the space of fifteen days 
after the copy and statement required to be delivered to the Su- 
perintendent of Police shall have been delivered as required by the 
preceding section. 

Sec. 9. It will be the duty of the Superintendent of Police to 
report to the Mayor any failure to comply with any of the pro- 
visions of this article, and the Mayor may revoke the license of 
such person. 

Sec. 10. The Mayor may forthwith revoke the license of any 
person who shall have been convicted before any Police Justice 
or Justice of the Peace, whether the judgment of such jijsticc 
shall liave been appealed from or not 

Sol Keiser has returned from his trip to California. 

H. F. Hahn, of H. F. Hahn & Co., is expected back in two 
or three weeks. 

M. A. Mead returned the latter part of last week from his 
California trip. 

DeLancey Stone, of New York, was here last week, stopping 
at the Victoria. 

Mr. Ellbogen, of Stein & Ellbogen, returns from his Euro- 
pean trip this week. 

L. Seligman, of L. Seligman & Co., was in town for a few 
days last week. 

T. Y. Midlen, of the Gorham Manufacturing Company, was 
in town for a few days the early part of last week. 

Milton Rodenberg, son of G. L. Rodenberg, Chicago man- 
ager of S. & B. Lederer, has been spending a week ^ere with 
his bride. 

R. P. Morehead and J. J. Robinson, of New York; J. J. Sul- 
livan, of Boston, and W. P. Stowe were in town last week stop- 
ping at the Brevoort House. 

Frank Sproehule, of Sproehule & Co., at 92 State street, has 
returned from a month's business trip. 

E. P. Sundberg, of Fargo, N. D., passed through the city last 
week on his way South. 

S. Goldsmith, of Goldsmith Brothers, refiners and assayers, is 
in the West on a business trip. 

Ralph L. Ostrander, accused of being a "fence," pleaded 
"not guilty" last week to the six indictments found against him 
for receiving stolen property. 

A. L. Sercomb, Chicago manager for the Meriden Brittania 
Company, made a flying trip to Kansas City last week. 

Chicago jewelers are glad to know that George Gubbins has 
signed an agreement with the Courvoisier-Wilcox Manufacturing 
Company to represent them here as Chicago manager until Jan. 
I, 1900. 

Beginning last Saturday, all the silverware houses will close 
at I P. M. on Saturday and at 5:30 on other days. Jobbers and 
manufacturers in the city will begin a similar schedule on May 
1st. 

About May ist the Ansonia Clock Company will move frorn 
their present location at 79 Wabash avenue to new quarters j0 
the building across the street. 

A. L. Sercomb, Western manager of the Meridcti Brit^j, .^ 
Cmpany, will sail for Europe with Mrs. Sercomh nf^ ^Pril > ^^ 



With the advent of the early spring trade the traveling men 
who seem to know a good thing when they see it, are aflFecting 
the Victoria Hotel this season in numbers greatly in advance 
of any previous recalling of tl!e proprietors. Safety for samples, 
along with a careful solicitation for the wants of the guests, are 
adjuncts that attract the sympathies and patronage of the jew- 
elry salesmen. 

DETROIT 

Two Forgers Caught. — Two young men walked into 
Wright, Kay & Co.'s store Friday, and one presented the card 
of Stephen L. Carter, representing the firm of Barnes & Parish, 
Chicago. Mr. Carter wanted to look at some diamond rings, and 
he selected one valued at $150. He gave his address as the Hotel 
Metropole, and said that he would call for the diamond ring 
later. The jewelers were suspicious and notified the detectives. 
All of the detectives were notified to look out for those two men. 
Detectives High and Larkins found they were going into the 
store of Smith, Sturgeon & Co. Detectives watched the jewelry 
stores for hours. At 2:30 o'clock the one who had given his 
name as Stephen L. Carter walked into the store and inquired 
for the ring he picked out the day before. The ring was handed 
to him. He pulled out a letter, to whrch was pinned a check 
for $275, signed by Barnes & Parish. The check was on the 
Union National Bank of Chicago, and was regularly certified. 
As soon as he had turned over the check and received the ring 
he was told that he was under arrest. When his valise was ex- 
amined a clever scheme for swindling merchants was exposed. 
Three letters were found on him, each of which was addressed 
to him, care the Hotel Metropole, dated at Chicago, and such 
as any firm would send to its salesman. Each enclosed a check 
similar to the one passed on Wright, Kay & Co. Charies Geni- 
ents, one of the proprietors of the Metropole, was called over 
to the detectives' office and told the captain that Carter had been 
stopping at his hotel for a short time, and had taken good care 
to make himself acquainted with the proprietors. Clements says 
that one morning Carter opened a letter with a check in it in 
front of him in such a way as to make sure tliat he 
saw the check and the letter. Other letters found on Carter were 
unopened. When Chief McDonnell opened one he found it con- 
tained nothing but blank paper, and was evidently mailed for the 
purpose of making an impression as to the amount of business 
done by Carter. The police think that these are the men who 
have been working Buffalo, Cleveland and other cities. 

Eugene Parker, the jeweler at Durand Mich., was in De- 
troit this week. 

The L. Black Company, jewelers and opticians, report an 
excellent spring trade. An extra traveling man has been put on 
the road and Don Campbell, a well-known salesman, lias been 
installed in the Woodward avenue store. 

Albert Landsberg, president of the L. Black Company, has 
been laid up for a month with rheumatism. 

Wright, Kay & Co. have been making some alterations in 
their store. A new window has been opened and a show room 
for loose diamonds established. 

Fred Butters, foreman of Smith, Sturgeon & Co., is around 
on crutches and attending to business. 

William A. Sturgeon is on a business trip to New York. 

Smith, Sturgeon & Co. have laid in a stock of artistic silver- 
ware that beats anything ever seen in Detroit before. A special 
feature of this stock is a line of dinner ware which includes every 
article in a complete table service. A large line of Easter novel- 
ties and many new and unique pieces in diamond and fancy geni 
combinations are also included in their new line. 

TOLBDO 

One of the most popular fads among the school youth of 
Toledo is that of class badges. The idea seems to have taken a 
firm hold in the grammar grades, judging from the number of 
orders filled during the last thirty days by the jewelry firm of 
J. J. Freeman & Co. Friday this firm delivered to the pupils of 
Warren Grammar School 35 handsome badges, of silver, gilded, 
and in the form of a shield, with pretty enamel work in blue. This 
gam^ firm is now busy making a set of badges for the Fultor 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



441 



Grammar School Another popular fad in the city at present is 
the "frieiidship heart'* bangle which is worn attached to a bracelet. 
J. J. Freeman^ one of the leading jewelers, stated to a reporter for 
The Review that he is selling from 25 to 150 of the friendship 
hearts every day, and that the sale is increasing. The price of the 
hearts runs from 25 cents to $1, or higher if desirable. They 
are made in a multitude of designs. The material in most cases 
is silver or gold or imitations. Some, however, are enameled. 
Some are jeweled, some decorated, and some perfectly plain. 
The fad is a pretty one, and of course there is attached to the 
trinkets a certain sentimental value. 

A perpetual injunction was entered Thursday by the Common 
Pleas Court, restraining the Village Council of Maumee from 
selling the old court house and grounds to a Cincinnati concern 
for manufacturing purposes. Some time ago a Mr. Plumer, a 
Cincinnati promoter, approached the Maumee Council, and said 
that he represented parties who were desirous of purchasing the 
eld court house and using the property for a glass-blowing plant. 

Major J. C. Martin, surgeon of the First Brigade, First Di- 
vision, First Army Corps, stationed at Cienfuegos, Cuba, has sent 
home to his wife in Findlay, Ohio, a large collection of Cuban 
and Spanish relics of great value. J. J. Freeman, one of the lead- 
ing local jewelers, will make arrangements to secure these relics 
and curiosities and have them placed in the jewelers* exhibit at 
the Ohio Centennial in 1902. Among the relics is a lady's dagger, 
said to be 200 years old, and a pair of foils picked up where the 
ashes of Columbus rested. There are also a pair of epaulettes 
and cuflFs worn by General Gomez, several swords, rifles, 
machetes, silver spurs, fine lace shawls, ladies' dressing cases, etc. 

CINCINNATI 

Henry A. Dodt, the Arcade jeweler, had a visit from a smooth 
swindler, whose smoothness was mostly in his own estimation of 
himself. He entered the store and asked to be shown a cheap 
diamond ring. He finally selected one costing $8, and paid the 
money for it. Requesting a guarantee from the clerk, Otto 
Schmidt, the stranger lingered about the counter where the ring 
tray was left, and when the clerk came back he noticed that there 
was one ring missing. He asked the stranger, who gave his name 
as Otto Sneltz, what had become of it, and the fellow denied all 
knowledge of its whereabouts. It was shown afterwards that the 
fellow had the ring in the pocket of his mackintosh, and when 
Schmidt became suspicious, he offered to submit to a search and 
extended his arms at length. Schmidt found the ring on one of 
his thumbs and took it away from him. The ring that he had 
bought and paid for had not been delivered <to him, and thus the 
fellow was out his $8 in addition to being detected in his attempt- 
ed robbery. He made his escape before the police could be no- 
tified. 

The Wadsworth Watch Case Company is now running full 
time wilAi 250 men. 

Sol Fox, of Fox Brothers & Co., will leave for Europe April 
nth, to be gone three months. 

W. S. P. Oskamp has returned from a brief trip to Hunting- 
ton, W. Va. 

Manager Carr, of the Steif Jewelry Company, Nashville, 
was in Cincinnati this week on his way East. 

The good of having an active and li\ne trade association is 
making itself apparent to a number of the local jewelers, and it 
is possible that the Cincinnati Wiiolesale Jewelers* Association 
will be put on its feet again. 

Louis J. Hendricks, of the Jewelers' Company, is out on the 
road on a long trip and will not be back in the office for about 
two weeks more. 

A. G. Schwab, of A. G Schwab & Bro., was in Chicago on 
business tSiis week. 

COLUMBUS 

Krouse & Co. are now located at their new headquarters, 732 
North High street. 

Mr. Nunnemachcr, of Harrington & Nunnemacher, has re- 
turned after a two weeks' business trip to "New York and other 
Bastem cities. 



BLOIN 

A. B. Crawford, formerly of the notion department, has en- 
gaged in the jewelry business at Algonquin, McHenry County, 
IlL 

A general increase of wages in the notion department was an- 
nounced last week, to take effect on the first of February, at which 
time the department was consolidated with the jeweling depart- 
ment. The increase in day pay amounts to 25 cents a day, and 
the piece workers are advanced proportionately. 

Jacques Flauteau, formerly a finisher, writes from South 
Africa that with his brother John he is enjoying excellent health 
and a fair amount of prosperity. Since leaving the watch business 
they have wandered over much of the civilized world, including 
all of the explored portion of Africa, and it is their intention to 
plunge into the interior and renew their search for gold and dia- 
mond fields. They have families here. 

Roger D. Darroll and Theo. McGuire have left the factory. 

David Buchanan, who introduced the machine method of dial 
transferring in watch factories, and who was foreman in that de- 
partment of alriiost every factory in the States, is conducting a 
prosperous business in hand decorated china at Los Angeles, Cal. 

A. N. Wheeler has returned from a long residence in Canton, 
where he has been employed in the Deuber factory, and is again 
on the roll at the National. 

The stem fitting job in finishing B has been laid off. 

Fred. Martin, until recently of the factory, is critically ill at 
Springfield, from laudanum taken with suicidal intent, while de- 
spondent over a love affair. 

Messrs. Seathers, Peterson, Halverson, Parson, Rygh, Dav- 
eler, Bueker, Stork, Jeanmeier and Turner, of the finishing de- 
partment, have been laid off. 

The officers of the Federation of Labor have decided that the 
finishers have no grievance because of the change in the manner 
of finishing. Therefore the matter has been dropped by the 
union, and all who can find employment under the new order of 
things will accept. The conclusion was reached after a session 
of a committee, Messrs. Kidd and 0*Connell, of the Federation of 
Labor, and President Hulburd, of the watch company. The lat- 
ter promises to raise wages as soon as the new system comes in 
vogue. 

SOUTHERN AND ITESTERN NEWS 

VKOM OVK iPBOAI, COUtBSPOMDaMTS. 

in tte B0Wt with IntenttiBf aad uetal trade notat will be ftrea la 
thoee oeioiimt weekly. This beading ooTert «U the Statee Baetwmrd of aad 
adjoining the Socky Kdnntaint aad an the Soathern and OiOf Statee. We 
ehan heartily welcome any notes from thoee of onr readere who can tend ne 
prompt Inlonnation of any trade newt of geneial intereet. Sach notee shonld 
reach ua not later than Monday mominc. 

8T. LOUIS 

Frank Hooper, of Cripple Creek, Colo., stopped here on his 
return from Florida. 

Chas. Cedarstrom, of the Attleboro Jewdry Company, is ex- 
pected to return home in a few days. 

O. J. Pfeffer, of the St. Louis Clock & Silver Co., left for New 
York. 

The firm name, Zerweck Jewelry Co., has been changed to 
the Zerweck-Frech Jewelry Co. 

A negro was arrested last week in the store of the E. Jarrard 
Jewelry Co. for stealing a watch. He asked to be shown some 
watches, and whtn the clerk turned his back the negro put one of 
the watches in his pocket. 

JEWELERS-TAKE NOTICE 

1IBKRAL REWARD for return of watch works answerinji: follow- 
' ing description : 19-line Swiss ancre, full- jewelled, gfilt works, 
gold wheels, voluntaire repeater, silent or strikes as desired, repeats 
hours and quarters or hours only, also repeats hours, quarters and 
minutes if desired, independent train for striking, no number visi- 
ble on works, case had No. 9235. Bells and part of winding train 
were taken off when case was stolen, also hand-setting hour, crown - 
winding wheels and screws. Address F. L. Kirkpatrick, 275 S. 
Eleventh Street, Philadelphia, Pa. 

OtAer fgweUrs" Papers please copy. 



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442 



THE JEWELERS, REVIEW 



.April 5, i8» 



One of the finest Easter shows in the city is displayed in the 
window of the Merric, Walsh & Phelps Jewelry Co. It repre- 
sents the symbol of peace in three bronze statues, situated above 
a space of triangular form, about a foot and one-lialf in heiffht, 
which is surrounded with silk of snowy white. In the back- 
grounds stands the virgin with a gold crown, set with thirteen 
beautiful diamonds. All around and on the sides diamonds, 
emeralds and torquoises are placed most becomingly, lending the 
whole a most unique and attractive appearance, and consequently 
causing a rare observance. 



MINNBAPOUS 

L. Metzger, manager for S. Jacobs & Co., 410 Nicolet ave- 
nue, took the thirty-second degree of the Masonic order Wednes- 
day evening, March 29. Mr. Metzger wears a handsome charm 
to represent the degree, being a large double eagle incrusted 
with diamonds. 

H. M. Carpenter, vice-president of the Minneapolis Jewelry 
Manufacturing Co., while coming to the office Tuesday morning, 
the 28th ult., fell and Severely hurt his knee. 

Ma^ Brohn has accepted a position with Rentz Bros. Mr. 
Brohn was formerly with A. Lreber on Hennipen avenue. 

H. L. Carpenter, vice-president of the Minneapolis Jewelry 
Manufacturing Co., left last Monday on atrip to Springfield, O., 
and will return via Chicago. Mr. Carpenter expects to be gone 
about ten days. 

Rentz Brothers, 301 Nicolet avenue, have rented the adjoining 
space and enlarged their shop and increased their work bench 
space. 

Fred Benfield, with the Foster Lumber Co., of Fairchild, 
Wis., has resigned his position. Mr. Benfield was formerly with 
S. B. Abies, of this city. 

On July 7 Emmet Lytle, jeweler, of Minneapolis, caused the 
arrest of Sarah J. McCumber on a charge of attempting to defraud 
him. On Saturday Mrs. McCumber commenced suit in the Dis- 
trict Court against the jeweler to recover $10,000 for false im- 
prisonment. She alleges that her experiences on the day of her 
arrest have shattered her health and robbed her of her friends. 

The following eastern representatives called on the jewelry 
trade: 

Max Huss, S. & A. Borgzinner; J. Rothschild, Ingomar, 
Goldsmith & Co.; James O. Otis, Harvey & Otisp^N. Limbach, 
Foster & Bailey; Charles Oflfermar, Williams & Smith & Co.; R. 
£. Budlong, S. K. Merrill & Co. 



U>UISVILLB 

George W. Plinke, the Jefferson street jeweler, and the cus- 
tomers in his store one day last we^k were given a scare by a 
drunken man who entered the store with a loaded shot gun 
and said he was going to shoot some one. The three or fou^ 
cusrtomers in the store dodged under counters and behind con- 
venient screens, while one of the clerks rushed into the rear of 
the store and escaped through a window. The man cocked the 
gun and was preparing to do what damage he could to either 
the store or the customers when Mr. Plinke seized the weapon 
and wrested it from the drunken man. He unloaded the gun 
and put the man out of the store. 

Gus Mertz, a jeweler, who was in the employ of Seng, the 
manufacturer, has gone with Buschmeyer across the street. 

Tom Pottinger, who has been spending the winter in Florida, 
will return home this week. Ben Rodgers, also of the firm of 
Rodgers & Pottinger, will then feave for a trip through Cuba, 
and will probably extend his trip to Brazil. 

George Ulrick, manager for George Wolf & Co., has been 
suffering, seyerejy with a^ Jfsin^ in the ear tlje pa^t week. He 
has been unable to be at the store for several days. 

Sandy Liebermann, the well-known jeweler, * who formerly 
had a retail store on Fourth avenue, has closed his store and 
gone out of business. 

C. H. Jewell has moved from 2. '^ o ^kdS Portland avenue, 
temporary quarters, while he is bi ' nj, \[s new store on th^ 
square below. 

Hugo Seidenfaden, a jeweler, vwu J >r j^eis^^^' ^^s b„ / ^ 
away from the store for two weeks '. •!. .; j^^ * ^/ jumbagQ ^ 



The Kentucky battleship commis»oiiers have at last sent out 
a circular letter asking for designs, for a silver service- to cost 
$6,000 to be given to the battleship Kentucky. The local jewelers 
are up in arms because the commissioners have submitted their 
propositions to jewelers all ovet the country. They freely claim 
that since the money for the service was subscribed by Louisville 
people almost exclusively they should be the only ones allowed 
to bid on the service. 



NEW ORLEANS. 

Francois F. Brunet, 313 Royal street, has been awarded the 
contract for a diamond cross, to be presented to the archbishop 
of this diocese by the Catholics of. the city. 

In town: James McPhail, of Newark; J. Cowan, of Boston; 
M. Freund, of New York; Dan McGiven, of Gorham Manfactur- 
ing Co.; Max Arnstein, of New York; Wm. L. Supple, of Con- 
cord, N. H.; Jake Schuman, of Wm. Kimshorf, New York; S. 
Felix, of New York, and Thomas Maddox, of Philadelphia. 

Coleman E. Adler has added a big manufacturing plant which 
occupies the entire second floor of his building, corner Custom- 
house and Royal streets. The plant is strictly up to date in 
every appointment and is fitted for the manufacture of every- 
thing in the trade, including diamond cutting, 

M. Scooler was awarded by Temple Sinai the contract to 
make the resolutions presented to Dr. J. M. Weiss, of Cincin- 
nati. The gift is a model of art, bound in black leather with. sil- 
ver adornments. In the center is an American shield bearing 
the inscription of the presentation to the distinguished Dr. Weiss 
on the occasion of his eightieth birthday, Marcn 14, 1899. The 
execution was so masterly that the Rev. Max Heller sent J. 
Lowengardt, of Scooler's, a testimonial of appreciation. 



KANSAS CITY 

The jobbing trade reports the news that J, M. Greer, a well- 
known jeweler of Harrisonville, Mo., who has been ill fot sev- 
eral months with a complication of diseases, died last week, and 
his remains were taken to his old home in Penn^lvania for 
burial. It is reported that the store will be closed aiid the stock 
shipped to relatives in the East, engaged in the jewelry lin^. 

H. E. Clevience, who is in the employ of the Jaccard Jewelry 
Company, has just recovered from an illness which has colnfined 
him to his home for the past two weeks. 

W, Peyton Howard now has charge of the jewelry repair de- 
partment of C. E. Russell. Mr. Howard has beeyi with the firm 
a good while and deserves this promotion.. , . . 

C. A. Kiger, the wholesale jeweler, has returned from a short 
buying trip to Chicago. 

The House of Representatives of fhe Missouri Legislature 
has ordered a bill engrossed which provides for the death of all 
department stores in the State. Outside of one classification 
there is to be a tax of $500 for each line of goods carried, and 
the usual goods found in a department store are divided into 
seventy-two lines, and if this tax was applied to some of the 
largest department stores in this city the tax would amount to 
$35»ooo per year. ... 

Louis Meyer, the head of the Meyer Jewelry Company, wears 
an especially broad smile this week, as he but lately became the 
papa of a bouncing boy, who will probably, soon be the junior 
member of the firm. 

March i6th Harry D. Brubaker, the well-known jeweler of 
Wagoner, L T., called on the wholesale and manufacturing jew- 
elers of the city, wearing an exceptionally innocent look,.bHt none 
,of them suspected that he was married on that day, in this city, 
to Miss Lylian G. Morris, and they had no cause to suspect the 
occurrence, until a day or so later the wedding announceiments 
were received, which stated the couple wpuld be at home to their 
friends, in Wagoner, after March 20. 

The son of J. C. Shomo, a well-known jeweler, of Ottawa, 
Kas., passeo ■itnii^A the city this week on his way to visit the 
lElastern citie^ 

J. E. Cleinn .np, of Columbia, Mo., who has been engaged in 
the jewelry 1 -if . ^ at that point, passed through the city last 
week on the r 'a-cl lor a location with the. intention of locating 
further west, ^t , is later discovered that his name was among 



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the list of injured in the wreck of the Chicago, Rock Island and 
Pacific passenger train in Kansas, where so many ^yere killed and 
injured. Later information has not been received from Mr. 
^ Clemming in this city. 

George A. Young, -who conducts a jewelry store in Kearney, 
Mo., has just returned to this city after a trip to Washington, 
Kas., w«here he went to attend the funeral of his brother. 

E. S. Villmoare, one of the traveling representatives of J. A. 
Norton & Sons, has been in the city a few days during the past 
; week, having a wrestling match with an attack of the "grip." 

Fred Nyman, who covers a territory for C. A. Kiger, re- 
ceived a telegram from his brother, O. W. Nyman, Galesburg, 
;ill., announcing the death of Carl Nyman, another brother, who 
is well known to the trade and was an old-tim^ watchmaker. 

The following buyers have been in the city during the past 
week: 

C. A. Clement, Springfield, Mo.; J. A. Hurst, Adrian; Mo.; 
W. W. Whiteside, Liberty, Mo.; G. A. Young, Kearney, Mo.; 
• C. A. Wolff, Topeka, Kan; J. H. Whiteside, Liberty, Mo.; W. C 
; Sellers. Medicine Lodge, Kan.; J. B. Haydeh, Topeka, Kan. 

The Kansas City papers announce the arrest and conviction 
' of J. Schwartz, in the Klondike country, for .selling brass filings 
and gold dust for pure gold dust. It is announced that he re- 
ceived a sentence of eight years. The chief of police of this city 
. says there is little doubt but what this J. Schwartz is the same 
Joe Schwartz who is known the world over as the "King of dia- 
mond swindlers," and who began his career in Kansas City some 
twenty years ago. If it is the same Schwartz it is the first time 
he was ever made to suffer for any of his swindling transactions 
in spite of the reputation he gained. He always worked with a 
gang of men who stood by him, and helped him to keep out of 
. the way of trouble in every instance. Schwartz opened a pawn- 
shop in the early '80s at 925 Main street, and during his entire 
residence in the city there was scarcely a month passed without 
his being suspected of some crooked work. His most successful 
swindle wds selling "painted" or "phony" diamonds. He had a 
plan of taking cheap stones, and by "doctoring" them make them 
hi^ve a brilliant and high class appear^mce. ,His^ confederates 
^wouid then, take the diamonds to other pawiibr^kers and ^lispose 
offhem. ^ He was arrested several times in' ^885. for receiving 
" ^olen property, but Tfemained in btftiness.' Ifi 1887 the Mannrng 
jewelry^ store, in Kansas' City, K^as., was robbed of a large 
amount of goods, principally watches. A few months later 
Schwartz failed in business, and when the sheriff took possession 
of the property an old'fruhk wsls discovered in the back room, 
and ; nearly all the Manning property was discovered in it. 
Schwartz went from here to Chicago and opened up in the same 
business, but his methods soon made that city too warm for 
. him, and he went to St. Louis, later visiting the Southern cities, 
and about two years ago he again appeared in Kansas City, but 
announced that he was 6n his way to Alaska and the Klondike 
country, and was later heard of in the West, where he was hav- 
ing trouble over diamonds he had disposed of. ' ^ 

J. H. Serfoss, who has for a number of years attended to the 
watchmaking department for C. E. Russell, the well-known Main 
street jeweler, has given up the position, and it is understood will 
open up a business for himself. He has been succeeded by Benj, 
T. Popenoe, who has been engaged in the jewelry business in this 
city for some time with various firms, and prior to that time was 
located in Lawrence, Kas. 

The following buyers have been in the market during the 
week: 

S. J. Huey, Excelsior Springs, Mo.; H. W. Starcke, Junction 

City, Kas.; E. Freeman, Paola, Kas.; W. G. Lytle, Atchison, 

Kas.; J. J. Stott, Paola, Kas.; J. W. Phillips, Maitland, Mo.; T. 

. B. Mclntyre, Sweet Springs, Mo.; Louis Jaccard, Liberty, Mo.; 

F. J. liaUs^iback, Eldorado Springs, Mo. 

The following buyers have been in the market during the 
past week: 

C. L. Porter, of Porter & Marlow, Moline, Kas.; A. Ginz- 
berg, Leavenworth, Kas.; J. W. Phillips, Maitland, Mo.; John 
Rupp, of the Bliss Jewelry Co., Atchison, Kas.; Walter Sper- 
ling, Seneca, Kas.; S. J. Strickler, Salina, Kas.; Louis Jaccard, 
Liberty, Mo.; E. E. Howeadobler, Perry, Okla.; Sam Fried- 
berg, Topeka, Kas.; S. M. Kaufman, Braymer, Mo.; J. M. 
Kaufman, Polo, Mo. 



IMPROVEMENTS, NEV GOODS AND PATENTS 
Under this head will appear descriptions of all new productions in Kachin- 
ery, Tools, M a n n fa ctnrers' Designs and Patents, domestic and forei|:n, relatinf 
to the trade. Those interested are requested to forward us for publication, 
free of charge, full descriptions of articles, with photographs or drawings 
whenever possible. 

NEV PATENTS GRANTED 

Compiled weekly by Ewing, Whitman & Ewing, patent law- 
yers, 41 Wall street. Copies of patents under this head can be 
had from the Patent Office, postage free, at 5 cents per copy. 

621 831. Separable Button. Georice W. Lee, Binghamton, N. Y. Filed July 
30,^898. Serial No. 687,«61. (No model.) 

621,887. Watch Case Pendant. Abraham tt. Yeakel. Perkasle, Pa. Piled 
May 25, 1898. Serial No. 681,704. (No model.) 





621,831 



621,887 



621,939 



Filed 



620.864. Electric Cleck. Joseph Bntcher, Melrose, Mass. 
Sept. 22, 1897. Serial No.. 652,543. (No model.) 

621.939. Eyeglass Guard. Jacob A. T. Obrlg, New York. N. Y., aRsIgnor to 
Gall & Lembke, same place. Filed Feb. 23, 1897. Serial No. 624,588. (No model. 

622,045, SuryeylDg or Astronomical Instrument. Adolf Heln, Hagen, Ger 
many. Filed May 14, 1898. Serial No. 680,690. (No model.) ^ 




622,045 

6;i 1.044. Mustache Guard for Spoons." George A. Ring. Chicago, 111. Filed 
Nov. 21. 1898. Serial No. 697,016. (No model.) 

30.393. Mirror Frame, etc. Horace E. Miller. Newark, N. J., assignor to 
The Celluloid Company, New York. N. Y.. a corporation of New Jersey. Filed 
Sept. 30, 1897. Serial No. 653.647. Term of patent.7 years. 

. 80,386. Badge or Similar Article. Eugene 8 Anderson, Buffalo, N. Y. Filed 
Feb.23, 1899. Serial No. 706,591. Tenn of patent S^ years. 



DESIGNS 






H ' 



30,368 



80.387 



80,390 



30.388. Badge or Similar Article. Joseph E. Smith and August J. Mcpsler, 
Buffalo, N. Y. Filed March 1, 1899. Serial No. 707,412, Term of patent 8H 
years. 

30.887. Badge or Similar Article. Harry F. Smith, Cincinnati, Ohio. Filed 
Feb. 2, 1899. Serial No. 704,296. Term of patent 7 years. 



TRADEMARKS 




32,625 

32,625. Watch Cases. The Fahys Watch CJase Company. Sag^arbor, N. Y. 
Piled Feb. 27, 1899. 



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444 



tHE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 5, i895» 



Paob 

At the HotcU 480 

BusliMMCliaairM. 438 

ButineM Troubles 489 

General Assi^ments 4S9 

Canadian Newt 484 

Toronto Notes 424 

Ceramics 4d0 

Bergen Cut Glass 4ao 

CrescentWare 4110 

Ceramics Notes 480 

Customs 489 

National Monthly Summary uf Commerce.. 489 

Deedsand MortKages 488 

Diamonds and Other Precious Stones 489 

Slate of the Foreign Gem Markets 4V9 

Bdttorial 488 

Diamonds and De Beers 488 

Patronizing Home Manufactures 4^ 

Here and There 488 

Horological 446 

American W atch Making in England. ... 440 

Bpibycioidal Teeth 440 

Report on Watch A Clock Making at Paris 448 

InK>rovements, New Goods and Patents. 448 

Designs 448 

New Patenu Granted 448 

TradeMarks 448 

Look Out for Counterfeit Nickels 444 

Middle Atlantic States 488 

New York Notes 4fte 

Pottery Interest •. . 488 

The. Tax on Checks. 488 

Philadelphia Notes 484 

Pittsburg Notes 484 

TrentonNotes 484 

Washington Notes 484 

New Business Ventures 488 

New BagteBd News 484 

Boston NoteiM 484 

Massachusetts Notes 484 

Providence Notes 487 

The Attleboros 486 

The Proposed Jewelry Combination 486 

Waltham Notes 487 

News of the Lake SUtes 489 

Cincinnati Notes 441 

Columbus Notes 441 

Chicago Notes 480 

DetroTtNotes 440 

Twp Forgers Caught 440 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 

Pagb 

Elgin Notes 441 

Toledo 44U 

News of the TraTSllDg Meo 480 

Obituary 444 

Optics and Opticians... 480 

EyeMassage ism 

Prevalence of Myopia in Japan 45i» 

The l^arliest Record of Myopia 4%7 

The Root of the Question 4^6 

W orking Distances in Skiascopy 488 

Optical Nevrs Notes 488 

Pacific and Rocky Mountain N t ws 4Ctf 

SeatUe Notes 4i8 

Queries and Trade Notes 484 

Aweview items 487 

Southern and Western News 441 

Kansas city Notes r, 448 

LouifcvUle Notes 448 

Minneapolis Notes 448 

New Orleans Notes 448 

St. Louis Notes 441 



INDEX TO ADVBRTISIiRS 

Paob. 

Anderson Hotel 486 

Amstein Bros, a Co 45il 

Averbeck A Averbeck 484 

Baccarat Glassware 489 

Barthman. Wm 468 

Bergen J. D A Co 481 

Belais* H. A E. 485 

Bowden,J. B...... 488 

Bowman, E. F., Technical School 450 

Brown, D.V 485 

Bumham, R 460 

Chester Billings A Son 4& 

Clewer, Henry 468 

Cohn Manufacturing Co 449 

Cooit, Edward N. 449 

Corker Tires 458 

Davison Bros 489 

Doll, W. F 484 

Dueber Watch Case Manufacturing Co. 486 

Eaton A Glover 484 

Eisler & Laubheim 445 

Eliassof Bros. A Co 489 

Fahys Cases 449 

Fritzsche,L 449 

Groen, U. A. A Co 486 



PAOB 

Hamilton Watch Co 448 

Hedges, W. S. * Co. 4S1 

HirscKL. 4DSt 

Hirschberg, A. S 451 

Kahn,L.$ M.,A Co 468 

Kirstein,B. Sons Company 494 

Koenen, A. A Bro 460 

Kohn, AloisftCo. 448 

Kramer, H. 8 449 

Lelongft Bro 458 

LewisACo 418 

Lum,W.H 481 

Mailiet, C. G. ft Co 468 

Manross.F.N 486 

MendesdeSoU 446 

Mercantile National Bank 488 

Mount A WoodhuU 481 

MunnACo 486 

Murine Co «4 

New England Watch Co 447 

Northern Illinois College 484 

Oppenheimer Bros. A Veith 458 

Owen. J. S 484 

Owens, J. B, Pottery Co 481 

Passmore, Edwin 449 

Philadelphia Commercial Museum, The 446 

Photo Efectrotx pe Engraving Ca 446 

ReichhelnuB P. A Co 448 

Rosenbaum A Adler 484 

Schlueter, A. A Co 468 

Schwarts, J. W 460 

Smith Bros 488 

Southbridge Optical Company 4tt 

Special Notices. 444 

Spencer Optical Co 458 

Spindler, M A Co. 446 

Stem Bros. A Co 488 

Straus, L. A Sons 481 

Sumner-Grimes Co 486 

Tannenbaum, L , 445 

Toric Optical Company 489 

Valfer.S ACo....V:... 489 

Victoria Hotel 451 

Wallach, A. A Co 461 

WickeACo 481 

Wilcoxson, G. P 445 

WUlson, H. B A Co 4B8 

Wood. C. F.ACo 458 

Worrell A Fahoy 461 

Zeller, Wolf A Bro 451 



®bituar^ 



Col. William Ricaby, of St. Joseph, Mich., one of the oldest 
jewelers in Western Michigan, died on the 27th ult., at the asje 
of 71. For the past 35 years Col. Ricaby conducted a jewelry 
store in St. Joseph, and was one of the best known and honored 
citizens of tfhe town. 

The death is reported, on March 22, of J. R. Hudson, a prom- 
inent citizen and jeweler of Santa Fe, New Mex. 

August A. Erker, secretary of the Erker Brothers' Optical 
Co., St. Louis, died here last Tuesday after an illness of about 
two weeks. He was 40 years of age and prominent in the pro- 
fession. 

Luke Clark died at his home in Jersey City, N. J., on Friday 
last. He was formerly engaged in the jewelry business. 

John Clinton Harrington, the old-time drummer of the Amer- 
ican Band, died at his home in Providence, R. L, last Wednes- 
day, aged 68. He was bom in Pawtucket. In business life he 
was a manufacturing jeweler, being of the firm of Harrington & 
Cook, some 25 years ago. 



LOOK OUT FOR COUNTERFEIT NICKELS 

A lot of counterfeit nickels made their appearance Monday 
at the United States Sub-Treasury at the Custom House. From 
the number receive^ it would indicate that these counterfeit 
pieces are in general circulation, and are said by Treasury ex- 
perts to be the best executed imitation of the genuine which has 
ever made its appearance. The counterfeits bear different dates, 
one mold being 1884 and the other 1898. The 1884 specimen is 
particularly good; the only noticeable defect, and that only dis- 
cernible after close scrutiny, is the figure i in the date. In 
color it is a shade lighter than the original of the same date. 
The nickel of 1898 also closely resembles the genuine. In weight 
both nickels are a fraction lighter than a genuine coin, and to 
the touch they are somewhat oily. 



SPECIAL NOTICES 

Kattw loMitod under tint held, ts oeiits A Hue Mtift 
so oeott a line eadi iMoe. VoarormoielaMrtloattio 

•ITUATKIH8 WAHTBD aad ULP WAWTED 
Mrted lor «M owt a wQrt« Vo adfeMtemnt 
win bt no0lf<ad lev toft tban «5 MBtt. OmIi 

U iM tUe divutmeBt free of chintz 



aliMOiAl 

wffl bt te- 



B«$iMei$ Ovpommitict. 



WRITK FULTON & YEAGLEY. ATTORNEYS, DEN- 
TON, TEXAS, if you have notes or claims against Texas 
parties that you desire settled or compromised. 

SmuMiOMi mwtCL 

SITUATION WANTED by a good all-round Manufacturing 
Jeweler; Mounting, Setting and Repairing. Address, 
CLINTON H., care The Review Office. 

YOUNG MAN with executive ability is open for an engage- 
ment with a responsible concern where faithful services and 
reliability assure of a good and permanent position. Experience 
in Solid Gold, Plated and Cheap Jewelry, Road work and duties 
connected with Office', Stockroom and Factory. Recommenda- 
tions from present employer. Address, MATTHEW, care The 
Jewelers Review. 



m^ WMtel 



WANTED— By a New York bouse, an experienced traveling 
man for a general line of Watches, Diamonds and Jew[9ry. 
Address *• E.,'* care The Jewelers Review 

WANTED— An office or desk room with live jewelry concern 
or material house, for a city representative of an outpof- 
town optical firm. Address **X. Y. Z.," care of The Jewelers 
Review. 



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JEWELERS. 

Cushman Building, 
} Maiden Lane. 

Fitwtt Locatioa in New York. 
Renb Reaaotiiiblfi ^» 

Apply N 

G. F. WILCOXSON, 

172 Ninth Aventse^ or on Premises 



^. 




Li 




Jl^ The Caslmuui BvUdinf, Broadway and Maiden Lane. 



Any Book II 

relating to tbe 

jj JEWELRY, OPTICAL, 
HOROLOGICAL or ALLIED 
TRADES 



can be obtained from 



11 

THE JEWELERS REVIEW, \\ 

No. 170 BROADWAY. 1 1 

NEW YORK. ) ! 



L. TANNENBAUM A, CO., 

Importers and Ctftten of 

Diamonds and Precious Stones, 

Cor. Maiden Lane and Nassau Street, 

25 lUittoii Oarden, LONDON. N E W YORK. 



( »»b^» j »! j » #j »#>»b»j» #> j» j » ^^ 



! 

II 



new Dfe for PedrU... 



T)ISCOLORED PEARLS, or such as have lost their 
original lustre or color by accident or age, can be 
readily restored to their pristine beauty. Process abso- 
lutely reliable, rapid, inexpensive and permanent. 



Send U8 a Discolored Pearl 

and convince yoarself . 



Special Price for First Pearl, 
ONC DOLLAR. 



Mendes Cutting Factories 
DiaMOids ami Predoiis %\^i9M 

51-53 Maiden Lane, NEW YORK 






m < 04 MMM 4f*^ MM f4f1f 4m 4MMf^ f 01M M f*4f«--0* ' 4 l ^ f** 4 M^ ^ 



REMOVEDl 



to 87 MAIDEN LANE, cor. ooid St., new york 

In our new quarters we have 3.000 square feet of floor space, filled with modern machinery. 
This means that the t ade may rely upon us for the very best work, promptly executed. 

SIISXjXIXI. tMo X«.A.XT:B£CEIXAa: 

special Order Work Pine Diamond Mountings and Jewelry 

M. SPINDLER & CO. have Removed to 

82-84 NASSAU ST., New York, 



Where they have much larger and better quarters. 1MPR<'>VED MACHINERY has been put in, 
and our facilities are in every way incre4sed. Our specialty is />/\| t\ ■ /\/>|/irrC 
of every kind, bhape and style. We are headquarters for these goods. (j^Ll/ LvlL»|\L I O 



Zhc pbtlabelpbta Commercial Museum, 

S)r. TRnfllfam p. TRIHlson, S)frector, 



Supplies DETAHiED, SPECIPIO INFORMATION eoneerning the 
TEADE CONDITIONS of the WOBLD'S MAJLKSTS. 



It tells WHEBE THE MABKETS ABE 
and by whom supplied. 

Who the BESPONSIBLE BXTYEBS ABB, 
and HOW TO BEACH THEM. 



It can ascertain FOB YOU the particular BEQTJIBEMENTS of any or aO 
markets in THE LINE OF GOODS YOU MAKE. 



It has inaugurated a most valuable method of BEGISTEBING AMEBICAN 
MANUFACTUBEBS in Foreign Countries by means of 



Carb f nbei jFtles 



PLACED IN THE CHAMBEBS OF COMMEBCE IN IPOBTY-TIVE OF 
THE PBINCIPAL COMMEBCIAL CENTEBS O^ THE WOBLD. 



This is a movement in the Interest of American Conmierce with whidi 
YOU SHOULD BE IDENTIFIED. 



Write for particulars to 

XCbe Ipbtlabelpbta Commercial rtMiseum, 

233 Soutb youttb Street* |>MUO<lpUa« f>a« 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 5, 1899 




This department Is devoted to practical and theoretical articles relatinc to 
the measurement of time and kindred subjects. In addition to the contributions 
ol regular writers, the views of expert horologists will appear from time to time, 
as well as expressions of opinion and individual experiences of watch, clock and 
chronometer makers. 

Subscribers are invited to send questions on matters on which they desire 
information. These will be answered through our columns^ which are also 
open for the ventilation of all phases of Horological opinion. 



Communications Should be Addressed horological Department, 
The Jewelers Review, 170 & 172 Broadway, New York. 

HENRY GANNEY, Editor. 



Vol.. XXXII. 



APRIL 5, 1899. 



No. 14. 



American 

Watch Making 

In Bnsrland 



American watchmaking in England seems 
progressing fairly well. Messrs. Williamson, 
Limited, in their first ordinary general meet- 
ing, have declared a dividend of 10 per cent, 
on the ordinary shares. The chairman stated 
that a number of new machines for watchmaking had all been de- 
livered and were already at work in the factory satisfactorily. 
We suppose America can take the credit for making these ma- 
chines, although the fact is not stated. It would be to the credit 
of English watch manufacturers if they would let it be known, 
as the best way to pay and get rid of <in obligation is to acknowl- 
edge it; and it would prove profitable, as American watches and 
American tools have such a reputation throughout the world that 
the knowledge that English watchmakers were using the same 
means of production would give confidence to intending cus- 
tomers, and prove that the ignorant self-sufficiency which has 
dominated the ordinary English watchmakers is being atoned 
for and obliterated. Horological capacity is now so cosmopol- 
itan that any assertion of superiority is impertinent and extent of 
trade and demand the real gauge of merit and ability. The 
English attitude on the fusee watch and machine watchmaking 
has been so absurdly wrong that humility and a teachable spirit 
should be cultivated until a large and prosperous trade admits of 
a more arrogant characteristic again. 



EPICYCLOIDAL TEETH 

LORD GRIMTHORPE ON WHFELS AND PINIONS 

If you roll A G P on another circle A R Y, the curve R P 
traced by the point P in the rolling circle is called an epicycloid 
to the circle A R Y; and if you roll the small circle AGP 
within a larger than itself, such as A Q X, the curve P Q traced 
by P is a hypocycloid to that circle, and it is remarkable that 
if the tracing circle is exactly half the size of the one in which 

!• '1 '•!•.. hypocycloid P Q is a straight line and part of the 
. r*-" of the large circle, and therefore teeth so described 
!'■• !. -H -adial teeth. 

I\.. s ^ lopose A R Y is the circumference of what is called 
the geometrical or pitch circle of the wheel which is intended to 
drive another and A Q X the pitch circle of the wheel to be 
driven, which is generally called a follower, hMt which I tuf^k 
is better called the runner, as followers do not tistt^^^y run K ^^re 
their driver; then it is easy to see that the arc A ? ^^ *^e tj. .^g 



circle is equal both to A R and to A Q, and also that the epicy- 
cloid is always more convex than the hypocycloid, and^ therefore 
that the point P in the tracing circle is^always the point of contact 
between two teeth so traced, and the velocity of the two wheels 
is always the same as if their pitch circles rolled upon each other 
without at all ; and therefore it is constant in all positions of the 
teeth. It is hardly necessary to observe that the teeth of the 
driver, to act after the line of centers, must be wholly outside its 
pitch circle and those of the runner wholly within. The part of 
a tooth within the pitch circle is generally called its flank or 
root, and the part outside is called the point or addendum and 
sometimes the curve, because the flank is generally made radial, 
i. e., a hypocycloid described by a circle of half the diameter of 
the pitch circle. For it is further to be observed, that although 
the points of the driver and the flanks of the runner must be 
traced with the same circle, it is not necessary that the points 
and the flanks of the same teeth should be traced with the same 
circle. In clock work the wheels always drive and the pinions 
run CKcept the 12 hour wheel in the dial work and the 
Fie.55. 





winding wheels and pinions if there are any. It can be 
proved, as you may sec in Professor Willis' "Principles of 
Mechanism," but the proof is too long to give 'here, that no 
pinion of less than eleven leaves (except of a kind which 
] sliall describe presently) can be driven entirely after the 
line of centers. A pinion of 10 can very nearly, and there is so 
much difference between the force required to drive pinions of 
8 and those of higher numbers, that some spring clocks with 
Macdowall's escapement which answered perfectly with pinions 
of 10 or 12, failed with the common pinions of 8 for want of 
force to drive the two extra wheels in the train. Professor Willis 
gave the following table of lowest numbers which will work to- 
gether with all the action after the line of centers: 

Driver— 54, 30, 24, 20, 17, 15, 14, 13, 12, 11, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6. 

Runner— II, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 21, 23, 27, 35, 32, 17, 6. 

The practical inference from this is, that if you use these 
numbers, or any higher ones, together, the driving teeth require 
no flanks and the running ones no points, because if they have 
they will be geometrically identical with the teeth of a pinion 
intended to drive the pinion after the line of centers when 
reversed. 

Suppose, for instance, what is nearly the case in the West- 
minster cFock, that the great striking wheel at one end of the 
barrel and the great winding wheel at the other, are both of the 
same size and number of teeth, and that their pinions are also 
the same; then as the striking wheel always drives but the wind- 
ing wheel is always driven by its pinion, the striking pinion and 
the winding wheel ought to have no points to their teeth, and 



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447 



the sections of the two wheels and pinions would be as in Fig. 
56, the right hand representing the striking part and the left 
the winding, and the action being in both cases, you observe, 
after the line of centers A C, as the arrows indicate. 

It is evident that the same wheel cannot properly drive two 
unequal pinions, with radial teeth, whenever the same wheel 
has to drive two such pinions; the flanks of the pinion teeth and 
the points of the wheel teeth must be traced with the same circle, 
and that circle must not be larger than half the size of the smaller 
pinion, or else it will make the teeth of that pinion weaker at the 
roots than even radial teeth are, which are, of course, narrower 
at the bottom than the top, and therefore a weak form especially 
in small pinions. 

LANTERN PINIONS 

But there is another, perfectly different kind of pinion, which 
is much better for small numbers than radial pinions or leaves, 
viz., what is called a lantern pinion, and in old books a trundle. 
These figures (/ 0) will show its construction better than any 
explanation. I believe it is the oldest form of pinion in the 
world, but it had almost (if not quite) fallen into disuse in Eng- 
land, when it was restored in Dent's turret clocks about forty-five 
years ago. They work with n\uch less friction than common 
leaved pinions of low numbers when driven, the run upon them 
being less and the action wholly after the line of centers, and 
the shape of the wheel teeth requiring less accuracy to drive 
them smoothly. They are not, however, proper for driving, 
because then the action comes all before the line of centers. 
In some French turret clocks the winding pinions are never- 
theless wrongly made as lanterns, and the pins themselves 
pivoted instead of riveted in their sockets, so as to turn while 
they are working, which makes them work loose and shaky, 
and the pinion itself much weaker than when the pins are fast, 
and saves very little in friction besides. 

For the purpose of geometrical construction, we may first 
consider the pins as being of ' infinitely small thickness, and 
then the teeth which drive them would be of the dotted form 
P R in Fig. 57, being epicycloids traced on the wheel with a circle 
the full size of the pitch circle of the pinion. When in order to 
get the shape of the teeth for pins of the actual size, you must 
gauge off half the breadth of the pin from each side of the teeth, 
which reduces it to p r, and you may leave on just as much point 
as will keep hold of the departing pin P until another tooth has 
got well hold of the next pin just as it crosses the line of centers. 
This operation of reducing the theoretical to the actual tooth 
is practically equivalent to tracing the tooth with a smaller 
circle: how much smaller will depend on the number, i. e., on 
the thickness of the pins in proportion to the size of the pinion. 
I find that a lantern pinion 3 or 10 requires a tooth which fits a 
leaved pinion of the same number so nearly that I can see no dif- 
ference in the curves on a pattern 
as large as 9 inches in diameter; 
and even with 12 the difference is 
very small, although a theoretical 
lantern pinion with pins of no thick- 
ness requires the same shape of 
teeth as a radial pinion of twice its 
size. I have no doubt that a lan- 
tern of 8 runs as easily as a leaved 
pinion of 12, and of course it re- 
quires only two-thirds the number 
of teeth in the wheel and is also 
much stronger and less liable to 
break, both in hardening and in 
working afterwards. I may, how* 
ever, repeat the caution that cast 
iron wheels do not work so well with steel pinions (or 
rather they soon wear out) as with cast iron; and therefore 
if the g^eat wheel only is cast iron and the smaller ones of 
brass and gun metal, the pinions should be made of cast iron 
or steel accordingly. Also, it should be borne in mind that 
you cannot draw out an arbor with a lantern pinion endways, by 
unscrewing the front bush only, and therefore they should not 
be used when you cannot get at the back bush to take it off. These 



r§c,57. 




A Vital Point of a 
Watch for accuracy 

is the hairspring. The hairsprings 
used in all of our watches are made 
of the finest make of steel in the 
world. The hairsprings used in the 
most costly watches could not be of 

better steel, because none better is made. 

Our hairsprings, hardened and tempered 
to bring them to a condition of perfect elas- 
ticity, are then very carefully timed in the 
balances. 




/ 




An accurately timed hairspring and bal- 
ance is used as standard. The new bal- 
ances to be timed are taken up, one by one, 
and rotated (the lower point of the staffs 
resting on a polished surface) 
until, by changing the hold of 
the tweezers, the new spring 
and the accurate standard move 
in perfect accord. 

The cheapest of our Watches 
have the same care in this 
respect as the higher priced 
ones. 

••• THe ••• 

New England Watch Co. 

Waterbury, Conn. 







Digitized by 



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448 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 5, 1899 




KltttlMt*tXltltltttltlt«t»t>tXltlt*ta(ltiMMtKS 



^^"T?^ 

^ 




l^-**'' 



^J%\ 



NEW GRADES 
18 Size 21 Jewel Movements 



THE 



Hamilton Watch Co. 



has placed on the market the following: New Grades ji 
of 18 Size, 21 Jewel Movements, both Hunting: and J 
Open Face: 



21 extra fine Ruby Jewels in Gold Settings, 
Nickel, Double Roller Escapement, Steel 
Escape Wheel, Sapphire Pallets, Patent 
Micrometric Regulator, Breguet Hair- 
spring, Double Sunk Dial, beautifully 
finished Nickel Plates, Gilt Lettering, 
Steel parts Champferred, Adjusted to 
Temperature, Isochronism and Positions, 

AND 

21 Jewels, Nickel, Steel Escape Wheel, 
Breguet Hairspring, Patent Regulator, 
Double Sunk Glass Enamel Dial, beauti- 
fully damaskeened. Gilt Lettering, Ad- 
justed to Temperature and Positions. 

These Movements are made with the same ex- 
treme care, and possess the same superiority over all 
others that have made the name '* HAMILTON'' 
famous everywhere* 

¥¥ 



M 



i 



Write for Prices to the 






fianittoit (Uatcb eo«, umm, pa. | 



pinions are used in all the cheap American clocks and also in 
the cheap German or Dutch clocks, both of which it is well 
known will go with an amount of dust in their insides which 
would stop a clock with leaved pinions completely. But the Eng- 
lish clockmakers will not use them in small clocks, and as Eng- 
lish small clocks are not yet made in factories as large ones are, 
and as they are everywhere else in the world, the men who make 
them up have the power of obstructing every such improvement. 



REPORT ON WATCH AND CLOCK MAKING AT PARIS 

BY HENRY GANNEY 
K^Continutd,) 

In Besangon and its neighborhood over 40,000 people work at 
watch and clockmaking. The trade was originally founded by 
emigrants from Switzerland, but they now send movements and 
material to Switzerland in large quantities, and the Swiss lament 
the fact that their watch trade with France has fallen from 
4,000,000 of francs to less than nothing, as the French send them . 
material and watches to the value of 1,600,000 francs, which ex- 
ceeds the value of their trade with France by 200,000 francs. The 
production of rough watch movements in 1877 is reckoned to 
have reached the enormous total of 1,500,000, and of clock move- 
ments 500,000. 

The annual value of horological productions in Besangon and 
the surrounding district is estimated at 25 million francs. The 
value of the clock trades in Paris and other districts is calculated 
at 21 million francs for the present year. Besangon is now erect- 
ing an observatory for scientific and chronometrical purposes, 
largely endowed by the State and town, 140,000 francs being de- 
voted to its foundation, 5,000 francs being given by the general 
council, and 13,700 francs allotted annually for its maintenance, 
the State providing it with all the meteorological, astronomical 
and chronometrical instruments, so that nothing may be lacking 
to ensure the success of Besangon as a theoretical and practical 
school of watchmaking on the model of the institutions in Switz- 
erland. 

The Besangon school was founded by the municipal author- 
ities in 1862, and it now contains 80 pupils. The specimens 
shown of the work of these pupils bears testimony to the value of 
systematic and scientific practical instruction, as in addition to 
learning drawing and a due amount of mathematics and geome- 
try, the pupils are taught to produce all parts of the watch, from 
mixing the metals to constructing the finished chronometer and 
repeater with their own hands during the four years which con- 
stitute their term of apprenticeship. No girls are admitted 
either to the Besangon or Swiss schools. The advantageous 
connection of women and watch work is well appreciated in Lon- 
don as an advertising card, but on the continent females simply 
do as they always have done in the English watch trade; they 
help their fathers or husbands in any easy part of the polishing 
proc«ates. The work done in the French school is the property 
of the pupil or of his parents, and sells for its market value, pay- 
ing more than the cost of the education if the pupil is clever. 
The fees appear to be remarkably low, five francs per month for 
natives and twenty francs for foreigners, showing very plainly by 
this distinction that they do not wish foreigners to become as 
clever as themselves, or, perhaps, that they believe charity be- 
gins at home. 

The extraordinary facilities for acquiring high class edu- 
cation in all departments of art and science abroad by the sons 
of operatives has often caused me to doubt the wisdom of hav- 
ing been born in England, where colleges and schools, founded 
expressly for those whose poverty and love of learning were to 
be their best recommendations, have been stolen from them for 
the benefit of the classes who are able to pay the highest price 



for education. Tic nork 
exhibited, who ar. '< wv; 
have been at the in . ri.»n 
The best pupil thr -.h.ol < 
years of age, who '• 's bcci 
has taken all the 'w^/rs afsd 
during their term^ 
fifty watch moveuciri: 



'/' six pupils of the Besanqon school is 

11 t- • ages of sixteen and eighteen, and 

••n two and one-half to three years. 

et trained is one who is seventeen 

pupil nearly three years, and who 

•ledals given to encourage pupils 



• IditH-n to drawings and models, about 
, vai <? -^tates of completion, and the 



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April 5, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



449 



t 



NOT THESE 



BUT- 




The Cohn Manufacturing Co/s 

novelties in 

Silk and Ceaiber 

Are Sold by Every First-class Jobber* 
••••••ASK FOR ThuM 



Aik your jobber for thb brands if be does not carry 
Hf write direct to us for lelectton packife. 



Makers of Higfi Chm Silk Guards* Vests* Eye Glass Cords, Garters* Eye 
Shields, Tray Pads* Chain and Sample Rolls of all descriptions, Fobs, 
T Opera Glass and Shoppfaig Bags, with or without mountings. Pocket 

▼ Books, ^atch Bags* 

J THE COHN MANUFACTURING CO., 
^ 37 & 39 Maiden Lane, New York. 



THB 




Novelties 



OEAMLESS WIRE. 



^^ .«^. IN ALL SIZES AND QUALITIES 

Maaviactarcd bjr 

EDWARD N. COOK. 

Gold and Silver Rolled Plate. •• ALUMINUM SOLDER/* 

144 PINE STREET. PROVIDENCE, R. L 



IFAHYS 




CASES I 



1iavc$«M6oMB«i»$aaa3oiitt. mMCigraMl S 



illMlllllllllttllllllllllllllllllllllllrlllllilililiniililllllllllillllllllllllllS 



H. S. K^AME^ 



82 NASSAU ST., 



NEW YORK 



Ulatch materials, Cools, Optical Qoodsl 



A Full Awortment 



Also a Full Line of 



both American and Imported ^ 'batches, Qocks and Jewelry! 
Our new *'Jeweler'8 Guide" will soon I 

BE ISSUED. SENft F,'^' IT- NO CHARGE | 



«IIUIII(i|lfllllllllMIIIII«NtlMllltllltltlltim*llllllltlllll|l|l,r: 



LEBRECHT KRITZSCHE 

Ens^raver, Die Sinker and Tool Maker 

Special Attention to HBDALUON and BAD6B WORK. 
73 Hamilton Street, NEWARK^ N.J. 



NdSELCSS BLOWERS 



R R REICHHELM & CO^^S 

lEVELERS^ TOOL DEPOT 

23 J<^ $!•, NEW YORK 

Try Genuine Gtiinea Gold Alloy. 



ALOIS KOHN & CO. 

WtowfaclMrm Of Solid QOld gbdinS 

LORQN&TTES AND GUARDS A SPEC*ALTV. 

4 MAIDEN LANE, NEW YORK* f 



Edwin Passmore 

« Capidary « 

Cettara«dP>al€fi> FTNR aFMS 

JlMericaM geM$ * specialty 

A FINE ASSORTMENT IN STOCK 



Room 76, Jewelefs^ Building, Boaton 

Digitized by VnOOQ iC 



450 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 5, 1899 



majority of them nearly finished, all of his work, amply prove this 
pupil's industry and ability. 

Few adult workmen would turn out as much work in the same 
time, all by their own hands; and I doubt very much if the English 
trade contains any workman, taught in England, who would un- 
dertake to produce such a variety of work of equal excellence. 
A maker of repeating movements has not been known in Eng- 
land for the last fifty years, at about the beginning of which time 
that branch of industry died out here. The practice now is to 
import that class of work from abroad, and to finish it by the 
addition of the ordinary going train of our own style of work. 

The best piece of work of the pupil who has been named is a 
fusee keyless pocket chronometer, finished and full jewelled, and 
ready for the hair spring. A still more complicated piece of 
most beautiful work is his keyless repeater lever, finished and 
full jewelled; and a keyless lever, with Brequet spring, showed 
that springing is by no means neglected, though in the springing 
no special excellence was instanced, or could, indeed, be looked 
for from one so young; the wonder was how so much skill could 
have been acquired in so short a time as about thirty-four months, 
as many years might have been deemed a reasonable time to learn 
so much. 

This seems to indicate some special system of correcting the 
work of pupils, or possibly they may copy good models without 
thoroughly understanding them. Long apprenticeships are 
served in England, and then only a limited part of the branch of 
the work, such, for instance, as escapement-making, is under- 
stood and effectually mastered by the workman. 

Although the practical skill is there, in these pupils and in 
their work, theoretical comprehension of it can only come through 
much study and practice. Correct testing or sizing of parts is 
beyond the power of any tools known outside the watch factories 
of America and Switzerland. 

The Besangon manufactories and schools place all their re- 



liance on skilled handwork, and have given no attention to watch- 
making by machinery, though the subject is beginning to force 
itself on their notice, as in face of the keen competition between 
the horological centers of production, Switzerland, America, 
France and England, supremacy will rest with those who use the 
best machinery. Much as in war, those who have the heaviest 
artillery are supposed to be special favorites of fortune, provided, 
of course, all other things are equal. 

The Besangon pupil, in addition to jewelling the holes and the 
scape-pallets, after drawing the angles on the steel and filing them 
out, makes his own jewel holes. This is very surprising, be- 
cause a good jeweler is not necessarily a jewel-hole maker. The 
two operations belong to distinct branches, holemaking and 
setting being the business of a worker in stones, and the other 
processes that of a worker in brass. 

A personal interview with this prodigy of skill entirely con- 
firmed the statements which had been made. He informed me 
that his father and family were jewel-hole makers, and that he 
had worked at that process a little before going to the school, 
and that after school hours he worked overtime in making jewel 
holes, which he would be happy to supply me with, as he had a 
considerable stock by him ; and he inquired as to the probabilities 
of obtaining work in London as either watchmaker or jewel-hole 
maker; he was not particular as to which, as he wished to visit 
London and learn our language and ways. 

His simple peasant appearance, in his clean rough-boiled 
blouse, gave little promise of the skill he actually possessed; but 
patience was written all over him, and the frontal development of 
the organs of comparison indicated great brain power. The 
Besangon authorities did not add to their reputation by their at- 
tempt to exhibit a watchmaking workshop. I had previously 
passed it somewhat contemptuously as containing only a few 
noisy casemakers and their lathes. 

{To be continued,) 



iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiitiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii 



flllllilllllllllllillliK 



SI Those of you who do not carry a stock of stones— | 

^^ X T I ^ respectfully call your attention to my cash order | 
^^ \t I business. 

C^ # ^y trading with me you get the best goods, and | 

I ' don't pay the jobber's profits. | 

I On receipt of price and size of goods wanted, the same is sent by retura | 

I mail. If not what desired, I will cheerfully exchange or refund the money. { 

I It pays to buy direct of the Importers. I 



ROBT. BURNHAM 



Dealer in Precious Stones and Minerals 



121 CAMP ST., PROVIDENCE, R. I. | 



■iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii 



iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii 



THE EZRA F. BOWMAN TECHNICAL SCHOOL 

Inoorporatlns the American HorolOffloal Institute 

t?c/rV.?g1.^t?arhl^ro'! Watchmakinr and Engraving 

Our itudents are enabled to GET and HOLD positions. If you want to increase your money- 
earning capacity, write for terms and information. EZRA F. BOWMAN, Manager, Lancaster. Pa. 



no doubt you know what you do not want, 

but perhaps you may not know what you do want. 

I have had experience, 

am said to have ability — and 

am at your service — for a reasonable consideration. 

J. W. SCHWARTZ, 

Room 905, Temple G^urt, 

NEW VOP- 



all sorts of 
commercial, literature 



>T^ 



The lew loenen 6ase 

FOR OEFSET EYBGLASJSEfe. 
AND BINDING TEMPLES 




Patented Octobw. 18M. 




w TWO SIZBS 



Made of tfcfr same material (steel and alninl* 

' as tii ^ rbell case whleh ha« ffaln«d mieb 

n...^ the opticians and tbelr patrons. 

It F ' impact, handy and durable, affordinf s 

1^ . teet protection to the gla 



8 1 NaB9£.a St., Ke w 

Digitized by 






April s, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



451 



««« 



Jl. 1 Birscbberg, 



Maouhcturer of 



Jl«4 WmnA UtM, 
n«velty De$i0t$ a Syectalty. 

m UPaibiigtoM Street. . mm, mm. 

ZELLER, WOLF & BRO. 

MANUFACTURERS AND IMPORTERS OP 

Fine Velvety PIusk^Morocco Giscs 

FOR JEWELRY AND SEL VERVARE 

Trays of Every DMcrifiti«ii for Travelers' Cases, Show 
Cases aatf WMo%vs 



75 and 77 NASSAU STREET 



^APm ROXiS, LEATHER NOVELTIES, CARD OASES, 
MM AMD Pm PADS, SAMPLE OAROS, ETO. 



NEW YORK 



Thomas H. Wokbxll. 



M new 0004$ 



Robert A. Fahbt. 



WORRELL ft FAHEY 

Dianotds and oibtr Precious $toNe$ 

Watches and Fine JewelrT' 
9, Hie 13 Maiden Lane, New York 



IDictoria Ibotel 

iviichiran Avenue & Van Buren Street, Chicago 




y 



i^ 



A high -class hotel located in the best part of 

Chicago, fronting Lake Michigan, 

and easily accessible to the 

business district 



SPEQ AL CARE TAKEN OF JEWELERS' SAMPLES 
RATES 



( American Plan, $3.00 and upwards 
I European •• 1.50 " " 



C. F. MILLIOAir 
FSAVK UFMAH 



UP TO STANDARD 



Says the United States Assay Office 



JOS. LINZ A BRO., 
Wholesale Jewelers. 



THE jyOLLOWING CORRESPONDENCE EXPLAINS ITSELF: 



Dallas, Texas, March 25th. iSgg. 



A. WALLACH & CO., , 

39 MAiDtN Lane, New York. 

Dear Sirs : At the lime we received your. iDvoice of p:oo(is, our representative happened to return from his 
trip. He stated, while on his travels he had met several parties handling chains, and while discussing different 
manufacturers, your name was mentioned, stating that the quality oflyQu)" goods was not, plump. In justice to you 
and to satisfy ourselves, we concluded to send one of the. dhains of you^ make to the Unfted States Assay Office at 
St. Louis. We herewith enclose you their reply, and must confess that the quality is satisfactory in every w^ay. 

We herewith return you the old chain. No. 333, weight 10 dwt. and 5 grains, and should you feel disposed to 
exchange it for another and credit our account with $2.00, for assay, we will appreciate it. 

Kindly return their letter, as we wish to u.se it in the event the parties claim otherwise. 

We remain. Yours very truly, JOS. LINZ & BRO., 

Per S. L. 



THE UNITED STATES ASSAY OFFICE AT ST. LOUIS, 
Office of the assayer in Charge. 



March 23d, 1899. 



Messrs. JOS. LINZ & BRO., 

Dallas, Texas. 

Gentlemen: I have assayed the chain marked No. 333, weight 10 dwt., 5 grains, using, according to your 
instructions, part of the bar, swivel and links, and avoiding as nearly as I was able to do it, the solder, and the result 
is as follows: Gold, 409/1000 or 9 81/100. Silver, 226/1000 or 5 42/100. 

JOHN BOYLE, Jr., 

Assayer in Charge, 



Charges $2.00, Paid. 



Respectfully yours, 



A. WALLACH & CO. 

mjlkm of 6OM CbainS m Bracelets 37 & 39 Maiden Lane, New York 

Digitized by ^OOQ IC 



452 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 5, 1899 



wil 



CHAS. F.WOOD & CO., DIAMONDS 



IMPORTERS AND CUTTERS. 



I MAIDEN LANE, NEW YORK. 



HENRY 0. CLEWER, 

Polisber m Umr 
of f lie Jewelry. 

METAL LAPPING IN ALL ITS VARIED 
STYLES. 

FACETING A SPECIALTY. 

Satin and English Finish, Etruscan and Roman 

Color, BriRht Plating and Silvering, 

Oxidizing, etc. All Work 

Guaranteed. 

80 NASSAU ST., NEW YORK. 



CIMALLIET&GO. 

Diamoitd eumrs 

14 Maiden Lane 

NEW YORK 



LondoQt 
50 Holborn VUduct 



AmstcMAnif 
2 Tttlpctraat. 



PATENTS 



Qnicklr fleoar«d. OTTB FEB DTTB WHEH PATEFT 
OBTAUTED. Send model, tketch or photo, with 
description for free report u to patent&btUtj. 48-FAaS 
HAND-BOOK FREE. Coatsins r«fer«tic«f a.nd ftiU 
inform&tion. WRITE FOR COPT OF 0U& 8PKCXAL 
OFFER. Itii the most liberfti proposition eTerniAda br 
a p&teni attoniej, and EVERT IHYEHTOK SHOULD 
READ IT before appi jiti( for patent. AddroM : 

H.B.WILLS0NJCO. 

PATENT LAWYERS, 
LeDroltBldg., WASHINGTON. D. C. 



J 




$1.25 

We Pay 

Retura Ix- 

praaa Cbarfea. 

BeatTiiiish. 

Gaarantead 
Ovrable. 

We have made price con^itert with A No. i 
work as low as possible. We allow noihing but 
first-class portrait* to leave our place Our work 
IS guaranteed aot to Fade nor Peel Off 

TRY Ua, YOU WILL, BE 9ATI9FIED. 

WILLIAM BARTHMAM. 2A Maiden Lane H.Y. 
First-class Work at Moderate Prices. 

EVERVTHINO IN 

ENGRAVING, DIE SINKING ANDT00LHAKIN6. 

FK^rioaced Workaioa, 12 Yoars' Exporleace. 

A. SCHLUETER & CO. 

363 Mafket Strtef, NEWARK, N.J. 



LEON HIRSGH 

Importer of Watches 

No. 45 MAIDEN LANE 
NEV YORK 

Will Remove on or about 

APRIL J 0th 

TO THE 

LORSCH BUILDING 

37 & 39 MAJDEN LANE 
FIRST FLOOR* 



CHAUX-DE-FONDS (SWITZERLAND) 
Rue Daniel Jean Richard 9. 




AW EYE GLASS 
CLEANER 

ideal preparation for the 

iate restoration of lenses 

original brilliancy and 

ness. Contains nothing in- 

bottle will last a long 

time, 

doien ; $15.00 per grots. 



The SS Auto-adjustable and 
Triple-bearing Eye Glass Guard 

The only guard that 
can be adjusted lo fit any 
note It has but ine un- 
interrupted surface wUh 
t-ree points of bearing. 
'^^hich more evenly dis- 
tributes the pre-sure 
element, and may be dis- 
posed of even I V and 
speedily with no other 
tools than the hand 

SPENCER OPTICAL MFQ. CO, 
IS Maiden Lane, 




YOU CAN'T MAKE MONEY 

- 1 
UNLESS YOU BUY AS CHEAPLY AS YOUR COMPETITORS. 

Your competitors buy of us I Do you ? 



We lead in low prices on cheap goods 

We do it to make money 

Others follow to keep their factories running 



We are headquarters for 

6 and 10 Cent Goods. 



Providence, R. I. 



Oppenkeiniep |f08. « |(8i(li/tL?11^.9^??Jr:r 

NASSAU & JOHN (Prescott Building), NEW YORK. 2 T«Iip St., Amsterdam. 4o Holborn Viaduct, London 




[f 



iSE 




)< 



-le 




Volume XXXII 



NEW YORK, APRIL 12, 1899 



No. 15 



JOSEPH NOTERMAN 

Joseph Noterman, the sen- 
ior member of the firm of Jo- 
seph Noterman & Co., can 
be pointed out as the pioneer 
in the manufacturing jewelry 
business in Cincinnati and 
the West. Mr. Noterman 
began business with a con- 
cern long since gone out of 
existence, and for length of 
time in the trade and contin- 
uous existence of the firm 
his can justly claim to be the 
oldest. The reputation of the 
concern is as wide as the 
trade territory of Cincinnati 
and beyond, and the charac- 
teristics of just dealing and 
accommodating service that 
gained the enviable name for 
the firm continue to draw to 
it new support and keep it in 
the high rank that it has at- 
tained in Cincinnati and the 
West. 

Joseph Noterman was born 
in Belgium in 1831, and came 
to New York when he was 
but about twelve years of 
age and began to learn the 
jewelry trade in 1844 in that 
city. He came to Cincinnati 
in the spring of 1848 and 
commenced work with the 
then well-known firm of 




JOSEPH NOTERMAN 
Of Joseph Notenoan & Co. 



Beggs & Smith, at No. 14 
West Fourth street. Mr. No- 
terman remained with this 
firm for twenty years, and at 
the end of that time, in 1868, 
he formed a partnership with 
the late Joseph Jonas, under 
the firm ,name of Noterman 
& Jonas. This firm was very 
successful' in the manufacture 
of jewelry, and it remained in 
the business unchanged until 
the year 1889. It was then lo- 
cated on Race street, just 
above Fourth, and in 1889 it 
was dissolved by mutual con- 
sent without successor, and 
Mr. Noterman started the 
firm of Joseph Noterman & 
Co., which has been in exist- 
ence ever since in the same 
place on Race street, just 
above Fifth, in the manufac- 
ture of jewelry and diamond 
setting. 

During the past two years 
Mr. Noterman has not paid 
the attention to the business 
that he had up to that time, 
the business being taken care 
of by his son, and Mr. No- 
terman, in consequence of 
thus relinquishing the active 
running of affairs, being en- 
abled to spend a great deal of 
his time in his Southern 



DRMONDS 



Wm. S. Hedges & Co. 



Importers.^ 

Diamonds and Precious Stones 



170 Droadwau, New York 

•7 Holborn Viaduct, Loodoa 



DI7V10ND JCWCLRY 



Mount & Woodhull 

FORMERLY WITH LATE FIRM OF 

RANDEL, BARfiMORE & BILLINGS, 

Importers of 

DIAMONDS-_^£i> 

Other Precious Stones, Pearls, Etc. 

Makers of Fine Diamond Jewelry 

26 MAIDEN LANE 
(Southwest corcer Nassau Street) 

JOHN C. MOltNT NEW YORK 



FOR TABLE OF CONTENTS AND INDEX TO ADVERTISERS SEE PAGE 476. 



Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



454 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 12, i^ 



ESTABLISHED 1840. 



Qiester Billings & Son 



ft RANDEL, BAREMORE L BIUJNG8 
IMPORTERS OF 

DIAMONDS 



1840 lANflEL « BAIEMOIE. 
186« HANDEL, BAIEMOIE « CO. 
1880 lANDEL, BAIEMOIE « BILLINSS. 



Otbor PreolMii Stoaoi mwi Potrto 



58 Naaais Sifcet DIAMOND J^ 

29 MAlden Uiie» 22 Holbocn Yladiict . TOYfTCT DV 

jVAHf rojtir. uomoom, m.o. •^ jH WI2iJ-*Iv I 



J. B. BOWDEN. 



M. L. BOWDEN. 



J. B. BOWDEN & CO. 

Makers of FINGER RINGS 

OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. 

1 N1A.IDEN LANE, 

Co«. BROADWAY. NEW YORK. 



home at Hendtrsonville, N. C, especially during the winter 
months. Mr. Notemian has been wonderfully bkssed in hav- 
ing his large family spared to him through his long life. He has 
twelve children who, with his good wife, are all living. Mr. No- 
ternian is respected and looked up to, not ofily by the members 
of the trade, but by his associates and acquaintances in all walks 
of life. - 

HUMAN POLISHING PADS 

The difficulty of keeping plate in polish is very g^eat, and the 
secret of it is known to comparatively few people not in the 
trade. As a matter of fact, it is an industry which affords a live- 
lihood to a large number of persons, chiefly girls, in London, 
Sheffield, Birmingham and other great centers. The big manu- 
facturers of plated articles keep a large permanent staff of plate 
polishers at work, and an important part of their duty is to pay 
periodical visits to the retailers who stock the goods made by 
their employers, and clean up all the plate. The method of 
cleaning is curious. The chief feature of it is using the ball of 
the thumb as a polishing-pad. With this wonderfully well- 
suited, natural pad and a little rouge powder these practiced 
polishers produce miracles of shininess. The dullest of metal 
quickly takes on a mirror-like polish under the hands of a good 
workgirl, whose muscles, through long use, become almost un- 
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THOMAS JACOB, Editor and Publisher. 



Address all Communications to The Jewelers Review, 
170 AND 173 Broadway, Cor. Maiden Lane, New York. 



Vol. XXXII 



APRIL 12, 1899 



No. 15 



NOTICE 

In anfwer to fbe many lettefg received at tills office^and to lave tm- 
neccnary correspondence and delay, we wish to state tiiat this paper 
fias no connection whatever 'wfibrJ.'J* I'ogerty or with Fogerty's 
Jewelers Directory. 



The Jewelers Review is issned resrularly eveiy week and will put forth 
every effort to furnish the best and latest news and information concerning 
jewelers, gold and silversmiths, horologists. opticians and allied industries. 
Persons interested in these trades will confer a great favor by sending us 
the news of their localities and their views respecting the manufacture or 
treatment of any articles in the above lines. It is absolutely necessary 
that the name and address of the writer should accompany each communi- 
cation, not necessarily for publication but as a guarantee of good faith. 

Correspondents asking questions requiring answers through the col- 
umns of the Jewelers Review will state the information desired plainly 
and in as few words as possible. All answers will be published as promptly 
as the nature of the enquiry and the pressure of business will permit. Read- 
ers need have no hesitancy in asking questions on any subject in which they 
s^re interested consistent with the nature of this publication. 



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Copies of this paper can be found in Europe at Holborn Viaduct and the 
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will be furnished on application. Under the new management 
tjje circulation of The Jewelers Review has steadily increased 
until it practically covers the entire jewelry and allied trades. 
Advertisers will find that there is no better medium to reach the 
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Advertisements to insure insertion in the next issue should 
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COMMUNICATIONS SOLICITED 

Space will always be reserved in the Jewelers Review for news items of 
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Jewelers contemplating a trip to New York can have their mail ad- 
dressed to this office, where it will be held until called for, or forwarded 
to any other address if desired. 



The National Customs Report for Febru- 
Steady Increase ^0^» which appeared in the last issue of £his 
In paper, shows a great and steady increase in 

Jewelry Trade almost all branches of the trade when com- 
pared with the same months of last year and 
1897. The value of diamonds and other precious stones im- 
ported in February, 1897, was $257,915; in the same month of 1898 
it had reached $488,398, while in February of the present year it 
reached the enormous total of $1,036,776, an increase of over half 
a million dollars on last year's trade. In the department of jew- 
elry and manufactures of gold and silver the imports during? 
February, 1897, were $78,988; for 1898 they were $92,825, while 
for the seme month in the current year they amount to $254,267. 
A considerable rise too has taken place in the volume of the trade 
exports, though not in a correspondingly large ratio. In Feb- 
ruary, 1897, our exports of jewelry amounted to $51,946; in 1898 
it was $54,368, while in the present year the amount is $72,929. 
In February, 1898, the exports of clocks and parts of clocks had 
fallen from $75iii2 in 1897 to $70,828, but this year it has taken 
an upward turn again and is $72,014. The same cannot be said 
for watches and parts of same, the exports of which for the three 
years named were $53,628, $56,696 and $42,635 respectively. It 
will be found, too, on examining the statistics, that the increase 
we have noted has not been spasmodic, but has steadily extended 
over a period of eight months, the figures indicating without any 
doubt an exceedingly healthy condition of trade, and Riving 
promise of a further steady improvement. 



The 

Retail Merchant 

d to 



What changes may we look for within the 
next few years? This is the query on which all 
retailers with small capital may well ponder. 
Already the thoughtful merchant has recog- 
nized the necessity for the adoption of safe- 
guards to prevent the loss of capital. It may be said that hard 
times have made the people more careful of their dimes, or 
that the great department stores in the cities, with their peculiar 
methods, have made a hole in the small merchant's profit, or that 
it is the ever-extending trolley line or the frequent cheap excur- 
sions to the large centers. It may be said that it is the mail 
order houses, supplying the consumer. But, say what you will, 
there is no denying the fact that changes have come and that 
changes are still going on. Let every merchant, therefore, fortify 
his business by adopting the soundest rules. Let him collect his 
accounts promptly; let him sell more nearly for cash; let him 
meet competition rationally; let him push profitable goods ener- 
getically and restrict his buying to what he can sell, and sell 
quickly. The necessity of the hour is to make the business pay, 
whatever it is, or else the retailer must prepare to join the wage 
workers of the world with whatever grace he can command. 



The circtslation of 

THE JEWELERS' REVIEW 

FOR ISSUE OF APRIL 5 was 9.903 COPIES. 

The average weekly drctslatlon 
DURING MARCH WAS - 10,0/20 COPIES 

*' FEBRUARY^ - 10,0581 ** 
Our post office and other receipts ate open to the inspection of 
those who desire to verify thb statement* 



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Thii department is devoted to practical and theoretical articles relating to 
the science and stady of optics, and will be sostained by able writers on this 
sabject. Under this head win be pnbUshed fall reporto of meetingt of the 
several optical societies, as wen as aU news of interest to optidans, togsther 
with copies of lectures and other papers relating to optics. 

Subscribes are invited to send questions on matters on which they desire 
information. These will be answered through our columns ^ which are also 
open for the ventilation of all phases oj Optical opinion. 

Communications Should be Addressed Optical Department, 
The Jewelers Review, 170 A 17a Broadway, New York. 

L. L. FERGUSON, Editor. 



Vol.. XXXII. 



APRIL 12, 1899. 



No. 15. 



Opticians' 
Titles 



There seems to be a decided liking, or rather 

weakness, of the human genus for titles, 

whether they be suffixes or prefixes. This 

gratification of our human vanities is often 

presented in the most ridiculous light, for in 

the majority of instances the titles affixed are only by means of 

their first letters instead of being spelled out so that the common 

horde cau ^n^erstand them. 

What aire they exploited for if not for their owners' self- 
gratification? Certainly not for the edification of "the great un- 
washed," for the uninitiated cannot understand the purport of 
mystical abbreviations, etc., either prefixed or suffixed to a name. 

Aristocracy of birth is the original cause of the present inun- 
dation of titles, bu^ no matter how much we vaunt our Demo- 
cratic institutions and ideas we are all possessed of a sneaking 
desire to parade our intellectual attainments in a Pharisaical 
manner, to the disparagement of those whom we flatter ourselves 
that we are their superiors; either that or from a mercenary 
point of view we try to convey the impression that our knowl- 
edge is in direct ratio to th^ Unlht^fiigiblen^ss' oT 'the suffix ap^- 
pended to our names. 

These conditions are responsible for the desire which seems 
to be indurated in our breasts to append something or other to 
our names to give us added dignity in the eyes of those who re- 
spect us for what we are supposed to know instead of accrediting 
us with what we actually know. 

Therefore, considering the fact that the regular names of our 
profession have been discredited by lexicographers, it is not to 
be wondered that this nebulosit. o* f* V*s exists. In several lexi- 
cons it is expressly stated that \\*\ < nation of optician is "one 
skilled in optics," but that it is gui'^ -.isse because it is modified 
by the statement "little used," vviii. a\ oculist is defined as one 
who claims (?) to cure diseases 01 Iir- eye. 

So, in the light of these defiiiirions and in the absence of other 
terms more authoritatively defn. live, no wonder we opticians as 
a class have recourse to all sorts of urnis or titles. Out of the sea 
of titles which are pre-empted h** i". le Doctor seems to Kg the 
favorite, some affecting the su^:x '^: O., which can be in^^nH- 



ously written M. D. with a litt'. Mrrtrh of f^j agination- *^ers 
calling themselves Doctor of Rcf.jct on, etc. ^J \\\>tt * ^^ 



Now, candidly, this sort of thing smacks of imitation. Such 
things, while not being directly harmful, do not add particular 
lustre to ourselves. At all events, before we pre-empt this much 
coveted title of Doctor let us see what is the actual authoritative 
definition of that noun. 

One authority relates as follows: "Doctor, a practitioner of 
medicine or surgery. (2) In looser usage any person whose oc- 
cupation is medical practice. (3) A person who has received a 
diploma of the highest degree ,in a Jaculty, as of divinity, law, 
etc., as evidence of his learning and ability to teach; more com- 
monly one who has received the degree as an honorary title 
from a university or college, as Harvard made the President of 
the United States a Doctor of Laws. (4) A device in a machine 
for doing some special work, such as an auxiliary or donkey en- 
gine, a boiler feed pump, a steel edge on a calendar roll to scrape 
off dirt. (5) A liquor employed to make poor wine or beer more 
palatable. (6) On sailing vessels the steward or cook is designated 
as doctor, etc." 

Now then, in the light of these multitudinous definitions, 
ranging from a practitioner of medicine down to a donkey en- 




* e/^f-9^^e^ 






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April 12, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



457 



gine or the cook of a sailing vessel, the optician should go slow 
before he pre-empts that which on closer inspection might prove 
a boomerang to him. 

Some years ago, so the story runs, a man was the proud father 
of a girl baby, and, having a penchant for North American 
aboriginal lore, he rejoiced in the fact that he had found a really 
poetical Indian name, Eufaula, which he straightway christened 
or invested his daughter with. Some jFears afterward he dis- 
covered that the interpretation of his daughter's name literally 
translated meant "wet dog." It is useless to further point the 
moral or adorn the tale. 

Medical men recognize this new state of affairs and know that 
the average person does not have the discriminatory ability to 
differentiate between the genuine and the imitation; between the 
doctor of divinity, law or physics; therefore latterly in polite 
circles the term doctor is tabooed and the nnor^ correct synoi^tm 
physician is used. 

Evidently they (physicians) do not desire to be classed with 
ships' cooks or donkey engines, and neither do I as an optician. 

So out of the maze of titles that we have pre-empted by what 
in law is known as squatter sovereignty let us use something that 
does not smack of imitation, even if ft has to be coined, and then 
await patiently the lapse of time for it to be dubbed authoritative 
by being admitted within the covers of a dictionary. 



5##; r 4>;<^ #y 4 y < ^ ii ^ # ## < r j ^# ;i ^#4r^^ 



VORKING DISTANCES IN SKCASCOPY 

LECTURE DELIVERED BEFORE THE OPTICAL SOCIETY OF THE CITY OF 
NEW YORK BY L. L. FERGUSON 

{Copyright,, 1899^ by The Jewelers Review) 
CoDtinned from last issue 

Fig. 7 illustrates the case in point. The vertical meridian 
emits convergent, which meet at 40 inches; beyond that point 
the optician perceives them as myopic with the skiascope, 
while the horizontal meridian appears perfect; therefore the 
astigmatic strip appears myopic (as such it really is), with the 
meridian of greatest error at 90*, axis of corrective concave 
cylinder axis 180**. Now approach to the conventional stere- 
otyped distance of i meter. Your proximity has neutralized 
the myopia and has transmutated the apparent meridian of least 
error to the 90® axis, whilst that at right angles, which was nor- 
mal at the 72 inch distance, now is hypermetropic to the extent 
of 0.50 D. Now the chances are that nine out of ten would have 
worked at the i.oo meter distance, immediately impose a -}- .50 
Dg. ax. .90**, receive the expostulations of the ametrope, provid- 
ing he had enough intelligence in the premises to do so, and 
then be compelled to fall back tipon the subjecjlye method and 
imagine that you have corroborated your suspicion^ that ski- 
ascopy was unreliable. ^ 

Now the operator has recourse to two, methods to obviate 
this common error; a minus spherical can be added to the 
plus correction regardless as to whether it be eitheef«pnerical 
or cylinder, the same as is done in myopic cases to compensate 
for what the working distance renders only in the abstract; or 
he can correct the angle of greatest aberration first by a ?pherical 
and then cutting out the overplus at right angles by means of 
a concave cylinder. The prescription under such circumstances 
should leave the cylinder as it is, but deduct from the spherical; 
for example, vertical meridian myopic to 0.75 D. horizontal axis 
normal— for infinity. 

The working distance will be 48 inches; therefore there ex- 
ists de jure 0.75 of myopic astigmatisfti, but de facto (for that 
point) 0.75 of hyperopic astigmatism. Now a cylinder should 
not immediately be imposed, but in its stead a spherical ; to cor- 
rect the meridian of greatest error concomitantly there is being 
created both a de facto and de jure myopic astigmatism of 0.75 
D., which must now be corrected by the imposition of a — 0.75 
D. cyl. ax. 180**. The unequal error is now corrected, and there 
remains but to remove the -f 0.75 D. spherical, which was used 
merely to compensate for the working distance temporarily un- 
til the astigmatic correction could be achieved for infinity. 

Now there must be considered that feature of skiascopy, 
which is betwixt and between the two cardinal errors; that is, 
myopic conditions which are apparently under the guise of 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 12, 1895^ 



hypermetropia. To better understand the case remember that 
while plus and minus lenses are possessed of different refractive 
virtue, yet that difference is not abysmal; the transition from a 
+ 0.25 to a — 0.25 Ds. is no greater than it is from a + i.oo to 
a + 0.50, or from a — .25 to a — .75. Both together are subservi- 
ent to the same scale as each one individually; therefore, whilst 
the plus and minus are at opposite sides of the test case, they 
should be mentally dovetailed into each other in about this wise: 

+ ++++0----- 

1.25 I.oo .75 .50 .25 .25 .50 .75 I.oo 1.25 

Therefore, if in working at a distance of 48 inches (0.75) a + 0.50 
renders the reflex convergent, we should revert back to + 0.25; 
from this is to be deducted the proximity, which would meta- 
morphose the case into myopia; .75 deducted from + 0.25 will 
give — 0.50 D. spherical, which corrects for fn^nity. 



Na? 




Hat 4^i7f 



After mastering 
the detail of the 
physical phenomena 
that are exhibited 
by virtue of what is 
known as the work- 
ing distance, the 
next in importance 
is the nature, shape 
and size of the light 
and its distance 
Mat 72 in. from the operator. 



A great deal of literature has been published upon this branch 
of skiascopy, the consensus of which seems to indicate that a 
small light is preferable to a large one, and that the distance be- 
tween the mirror and light should be as little as possible. Now, 
to explain, we will take each question up in its regular sequence. 
The color of the light, this is a subject that has not been touched 
upon by those presumably conversant with this science. All 
seem to assume that the regular color of any light should be used 
unquestionably. Now we know that different colors or tints are 
either agreeable or disagreeable to the eye; just so is it with light. 
In offices that have not electric light, the use of the Argand burner 
is resorted to, often of the Welsbach manufacture. Now, while it 
is permissible to use any light of any intensity you choose, it 
would nevertheless be more humane upon our part to temper 
the light to make it as agreeable as possible consistent with giving 
a good illumination of the fundus. Therefore the use of a Wels- 
bach burner is a positive torture to the amctrope; the incandes- 
cence of the filament emits a torturing white light so intense that 
the iris oftentimes out of sympathy with the retina contracts suffi- 
ciently to debar^a^good view of the reflex. Furthermore, the 
shape of the light is that of lin oblong, which also is a hindrance 
to diagnosing correctly. 

The light from an ordinary gas burner is much more agree- 
able, but the writer has used with excellent results a frosted elec- 
tric light, dipped in a mild blue solution of aniline, which upon 
drying, with the electricity tiu-ned on, emits a light sufficiently 
brilliant for all uses, at the same time ameliorating one of the 
worst features of the skiascopic test, i.e.. the blinding light, which 
to some ametropes is what the flame is to the moth, they can't 
help from stealing surreptitious glances at the mirror during the 
test, which of course each time results in the simultaneous diminu- 
tion of the diameter of the pupil and the consequent protraction 
of the time necessary to test. 

It is almost needless to say that the light should be circular 
in shape, for when it is not, the shape of the light is of course 
pictured exactly upon the skiascope, and from thence reflected 
upon the cornea, and from that point refracted to the retina. 
This shows, then, that it is necessary to accurately diagnose a 
case. The light must be circular, and when it is not, for in- 
stance, when a fish-tail gas burner is used, the operator is under 
the impression that he has a case of irregular astigmatism, owing 
to both the coarse texture and the shape of the flame. The sanie 
condition is noted where an Argand or Welsbach light is iised. 
Their contour is depicted in the retina with a// ^^^ ^^^nt /rV ^^ 
a photographic camera, with the result that (/iC eye app ^n^^V 
shows astigmatism in the horizontal mend/a^ *|rhen \r\ f Qf^t 

whatever existed. {(To'de continuedx) ' ' ^^ ^ 



CORRECT AND INCORRECT SKIASCQOA 

We have been in receipt of several communicatioos^from sub- 
scribers calling our attention to a statement of* Geo. H. Lloyd in 
the March "Keystone," page 285, asking us, if possible, to ex- 
plain harmoniously his statement with the regular accepted the- 
ories of light — parallel, divergent or otherwise. 

The offending paragraph is as follows: 

"My next case I find shadow moves with the mirror, and more 
pronoimced in the horizontal than in the vertical, requiring 
+ 2.50 S. in vertical and + 4.00 S. in horizontal. Deducting 
-I- I.oo D. S. in all hyperopic cases, and adding -\- 1.00 D. S. in 
all myopic cases, the corrected formula will read -}- 1.50 5.0 + 
.50 Cyl. ax. I8o^" 

Now we often find out to our sorrow that by a mistake in 
typesetting or proofreading errors such as substituting a + for a 
— sign, or vice versa, are often liable to occur, and we would fain 
believe our friend Lloyd to be the victim of that error, for if the 
second sentence read as follows: 

"Deducting 4- 100 I^- sph. in all hyperopic cases, and add- 
ing — (minus) i.oo D. in all myopic cases, when the working 
distance would be 40 inches." it would be more nearly correct, 
for the error has been committed somewhere by a -f- sign being 
used instead of a — sign. 

Not to be hypercritical or captious, but in the interests of 
verity, we must also find fault with the transposition of an eye 
whose vertical axis is -f- 2.50 D., whilst the 180** axis is 4.00 D. 
The reason for this egregious mistake is either lapsus calami or 
lapsis memorise, for the author is an optician of considerable 
ability and knows better. 

Now, upon first glance, the angle of least error is 90**: there- 
fore when the spherical is cut out, leaving only the astigmatic 
aberration, it is self-evident that in that direction the axis of the 
corrective cylinder should be imposed; therefore the axis 90® 
it should be, instead of 180*. Again, astigmatism is that amount 
of unequal aberration represented by the dioptral strength of the 
angles of greatest and least errors, which, in the regular variety, 
is always at right angles. In this case the difference between 2.50 
and 4.00 D is certainly 1.50 D.; therefore the astigmatism is cor- 
rected by 1.50 D. axis 90* instead of .50 ax. 180**. 

So if the working distance be 40 inches and the total error, to 
wit, pseudo and actual hypermetropia be 4- 2.50, we will ailow 
from thence for the w. d. a + i.oo, and the amended and correct 
formula will be -f- 1.50 D. sph. O + 1.50 D. cyl. ax. 90*^ instead of 
+ 1.50 D. sph. O -I- 0.50 D. cyl. ax. 180*. 

It is really too bad that such errors find their way into print, 
because they only tend to befuddle those who are striving to at- 
tain optical perfection. 

The only hypothesis that we can account for the lessening of 
the cylinder from a + T.50 to a + .50 is that the author has abused 
himself into thinking that working distance should also be de- 
ducted from cylinders. 

But upon "sober second thought," if all opticians who harbor 
such heretical ideas will reflect for a moment upon the problem 
the absurdity of such a procedure will dawn upon them. Let me 
interject the idea if this party apparently had -f 1.50 of astigma- 
tism, yet by virtue of a i.oo D. of working distance the actual 
error was cut down to .50 D.. why not have made the working 
distance 26 in., and lo! it would have been extirpated completely?/ 



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April 12, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



459 



OPTICAL QUEEUES AND ANSWERS 

To OoRefponAemts.-^Tlie iuuiim and addiMfot of comopoiideiits mutt bo 
CiTen, not nocessarily for paWcation, but merely to identify them if occasion 
ihoold arlie. Ho letters win be answered by man which properly beloni; to 
this depsrtment. 

C. E., New York. — In response to your inquiry as to whether 
there be any stated rule governing the prescribing of cylinders 
in astigmatism, we would say that if there was we would all be 
expert opticians. However, the following rules may be of some 
assistance. The writer finds that the disposition described aboui 
tallies with his own procedure. 

In all cases of twenty-five years or under give full correction 
reg^ardless of what position the axes of the cylinders are re- 
quired. For instance, 

II or or / \ or \ / or '^ — or / I 

between the ages of twenty-five and thirty-five give full correc- 
tion if they have worn cylinders before; if not prescribe two- 
thirds of total amount 

If over forty and had not worn cylinders before give full cor- 
rection at the following axes only: || or , but p/tly one-half 

the correction if the axes be / \ or \ / and but one-third if they be 
-^~or|\or/|. 

C. M. (N. Y.). — It is not my intention to take too much 
of your valuable space, but I can assure you that these pointers 
are a great help, and as we are invited to call again I venture 
to ask you if I refracted the following case properly, viz. : Lady, 
age 24, been using R — 50 Dc. ax. 165 L — 25 Dc. ax. 35 not sat- 
isfactory. Retinoscope shows a movement against in the verti- 
cal and a movement with in the horizontal, with a decided band- 
like appearance indicating ax. 90** O.U. With R — .75 Ds. C + 
1.25 Dc. ax. 90 L — .25 Ds. O + i Dc. ax. 90* there was a slight 
movement with, in all directions. I found R — .25 Ds. O -f .67 
Dc. ax. 90** L — .25 Dc. O + .50 Dc. ax. 90 gave best results both 
at 16 feet and for reading. Now what I would like to know is: 
Should I have first used a -f- sph. and then a — cyl. ax. 180**, or 
did I do right? If -|- sph. was used would not the — cyl. be 
much stronger as the result? 

Answer. — The act of skiascopy is intended to bring to a 
»tate of parallelism the emitted reflex ray; therefore, f-om a 
purely mathematical point of view, it matters not what agent 
yon use to accomplish this point. In this instance there existed 
origrinally myopia of 075 D. in the vertical meridian simultaneous 
with hypermetropia of 0.50 in the horizontal axis. Naturally, 
if you correct the vertical first, with a — 0.75 D. spherical, co- 
existently the hyperopia in the horizontal meridian is increased 
just that much more, making in toto 1.25 D. of hypermetropia, 
which of a necessity must be corrected by a + 1.25 D. cyl. ax. 
90®. Formula now reads — 0.75 D. sph. G + 1.25 D. cyl. ax. 
90*. 

Now the same result could be attained by correcting the 
horizontal hypermetropic meridian first by using a + 0.50 D. 
sph., which would incidentally create just that much more my- 
opia in the 90** axis, making in toto 1.25 D. of myopia, to cor- 
rect which a — 1.25 D. cyl. ax. 180° should be used. Formula 
now reads -f 0.50 D. sph. O — 1.25 D. cyl. ax. 180**. 

Now if the human organ of vision was as inflexible as ada- 
mant either method would be equally good, but the skiascopist 
will find that it will generally be of great advantage to correct 
the hypermetropia first by sphericals. cutting out the remain- 
ing myopia by means of a cylinder. The reason for this is two- 
fold, first, because with the interposition of the plus spherical J 
of sufficient strength the chances of the amctrope using his ac- 
commodation will be reduced to a minimum, which of course 
should always be guarded against in hypermetropia of every 
phase, whilst if the optician commences with a — spherical, 
there is a likelihood of one being used too strong, but which 
might scarcely be detected by the ametrope using sufficient ac- 
commodation to temporarily annul the artificial hypermetropic 
condition so produced. This blunder would then be provocative 
of the use of a stronger plus cylinder than would actually bz 
required when working back to emmetropia for the meridian 
at right angles. 

Secondly, the action of the adumbration in the weaker errors 



'GET YOUR MONEY'S WORTH." 

Snap No. 2. 
AMERICAN OPTICAL CO/S NEW 

lOk Gold Filled Riding Bow Frames 

$547 



WARRANTED BY THE CO. ^g^ A J PER DOZEN, 
FOR 10 YEARS. O NET CASH. 

SEND «0 aNTS FOR SAMPLE HIAMC. 
PreMrlptiMWarknIttoit. Write for Prke Ust aad PrMcriptiM MaaU. 



THE TORIC OPTICAL CO. 



£. J. KORNTCLD, MaMfM'. 



32 East 23d Street, NEW YORK. 



Will REnOVE Next Week 

from 38 MAIDEN LANE to 

6 1 NASSAU ST. 

Headquarters for 
AM. OPT. CO. and BAU5CH & LOMB WARE5 

WORK A SPECIALTY 

I^ NORTHERN ILLINOIS COLLEGE 

: OF : 

OPHTHALMOLOGY AND OTOLOGY, 

MASONIC TEMPLE, CHICAGO, 

Have issued an attractive Announcement with full description of AttMid- 
eat. Post-Qradiiate, and Corrcapoadeat Coarsaa, which will be mailed on 
*• tion. 

can IwKia /oar coarte at any time. Degrees conferred and Diplo- 

G. W. McFATRICH. M.D., Scobetahy, 

1016 MASONIC T^RL,^, CHICAGO 



application. 

Yon can begia vi 

mas awarded. Address 



/ 



.YOUR EYES 




/ 



CURES ALL EYE DISEASES. 
INFLAMED EYEaSCALfS ON LIDS 

GRANULATION CTC. 
By mall, 50 csntt. 



YOUR 

Optical Department 

is not complete without 

«« MURINE, oi 

Send -tor circulars and tes- 
timonials. Your Jobber has 
Murine, if not, order direct. 

M*80 par Doz«n. 
An Up-to-Datb Remedy. 
MURINE CO., MmooIc Taaple, Chicago. 



Thomas H. Worbsix. 



M IHw 8ood$ 



BoaBBT A. Fahit. 



WORRELL A FAHEY 

DiaMotdi md otter Preciois Stonei 

Watches uA Fine Jewelry 
9, U & t3 Maiden Lane, New York 

REMOVED- - 

to 8T Maiden Lane, cor. gow st., new york. 

In our new quarters we have 3,000 square feet of floor space, filled with 
modern machinery. This means that the trade may rely upon us for the 
very best work, promptly executed. 



EISLER & LAUBHEIM 

Special Order Work. Fine Diamond Mountings and Jewelry 

Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



460 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 12, 1899 



when using skiascopy is generally of such a negative characrer 
that the optician is in a state of incertitude as to whether or 
no there exists a "movement." Now the use of the plus spheri- 
cals of proper strength will give the desired positive appear- 
ance or "reversal," and the optician knows at once that he is both 
seeing and doing what is correct. Those of a pedantic turn of 
mind might insist that the ends of optics could be as well 
subserved in one case as the other, yet if the hypermetropia be 
corrected at first there will be less chance to err. 



OPTICAL NOTES 

There will be a meeting of the American Association of 
Wholesale Opticians in New York on the 12th of May. 

Nathan Strasberger and Frank S. Fisher have recently been 
engaged by J. M. & A. C. Johnston, manufacturing opticians, to 
represent them in Iowa. They will cover the north a^ad. south 
portions of the State respectively. 

Frederick H. Smith, of the Geneva Optical Company, expects 
to go to New York the early part of next month to attend the 
meeting of the American Association of Wholesale Opticians, of 
which he is treasurer. 

The following named persons have been accepted as members 
of the American Association of Opticians: 

Geo. H. Brown, Manchester, N. H.; J. J. Mackeown, Paul A. 
Meyrowitz, Lewis Allen, W. T. Georgen, L Mayer, G. Schoenig 
and J. A. Theo. Obrig, of New York City; W. Gilbault, Bidde- 
ford. Me.; W. A. Charping, Vaiden, Miss.; R. W. Chamber-/ 
lain, Marshalltown, la. ; Richard Ashby, Colorado Springs, Colo. ; 
John E. Bell, Ogdensburg, N. Y.; S. Shotwell, Dimond, Cal.; E. 
E. Bausch & Son, Rochester, N. Y.; J. A. Caoutte, Manchester, 
N. H.; Aug. Week, Norfolk, Va.; Wm. C. Jenkins, iM. D., 
Portsmouth, N. H.; W. A. Johnson, Laurens, S. C; C. M. Jen- 
kins, Richmond, Ind.; Frank E. Murtha, Schenectady, N. Y., 
and S. G. Marshutz, Los Angeles, Cal. 

A. Martin, optical goods, 56 Flatbush avenue, Brooklyn, N. 
Y., reports the past year to have been the best iti the history of 
tfhe local branch. 

The City of New York Optical Society will hold its regular 
monthly meeting at the Savoy Hotel, Wednesday evening, 
April 12. 

A committee of five has been appointed by tbe City of New 
York Optical Society to arrange for the banquet to be given by 
the society in June. The following gentlemen compose the 
committee: P. Apfel, chairman; L. Kahn, F. A. Woll, A. 
Wiener, P. A. Dilworth. 

Several new ideas have been embodied in the articles put on 
the market by Williams, Brown & Earle, 918 Chestnut St., Phila- 
delphia. One is illustrated in a specially designed incandescent 
lamp for dentists, oculists and physicians. The lamp is adjusted 
to a band to fit the head like the receivers worn by telephone 
girls, with the bulb in a tube containing a condensing lens, leav- 
ing both hands free for operating. The battery used is a dry cell, 
which can be readily replaced. Another of the innovations is a 
portable frame for the mov;ng picture machine made by this 
firm. The frame is made of structural steel and can be readily 
carried about, insuring a solid stand for the machine in any lo- 
cality. This machine is designed for both films and slides, with 
either calcium or incandescent light attachments. 

The Toric Optical Company, 32 East Twenty-third street, 
New York, is offering a series of bargains for cash purchasers. 
That for last week consisted of 10 carat gold-filled hairpin 
chains, warranted for ten years, at $4.50 per dozen, sample 
chains on receipt of forty cents. Elsewhere in this issue they 
offer lo-carat gold-filled riding bow frames, ten years warranty, 
at $6.47 per dozen, or sixty cents for a sample frame. 




A SAMPLE OF WORK DONE ON 

TheEaton-Eogle EograYing Machine 

SEND FOR BOOKLET, 
FATOH-GLOYEB CO., m Bm&nSLJitf pxt 



CERAMICS 

Under this head special attention will be given to pottery, teic-a-bnie m* 
poicelain, which now torm an important part of the Jeweler's trade. Pine 
products of the potter's art have always been prised by the select few bat 
recentiy the popular taste has caused a demand for these goods which has 
encouraged artists of recognized ability in their production, as new wmiw aie 
constantly appearing, especially in foreign countries. 
CERAMIC NOTES 

There is now on exhibition, at the Waldorf-Astoria, New 
York City, a group of silver cups and bowls and a large cut glass 
loving cup, silver mounted, all intended as prizes at the first 
annual horse show of the New York Horse Show Association, 
to be held at Manhattan Field, May 16-20. Of special interest is 
the cut glass piece, the production of L. Straus & Sons, 42 War- 
ren street. New York, and donated by them to the association. It 
stands about 16 inches in height, with a mouth aperture of about 10 
inches. The cutting upon it is iiytjbe best style of the manufac- 
turers. In harmony with the massive proportions of the cup 
all intricacy in cutting has been avoided, the designer accentuat- 
ing the simple, graceful curves of the outline by bold, sweeping 
cuttings crossing from side to side in the panels between the 
three handles. A large cHrysanthemum is the main feature at 
the lower portion of each panel, and small stars, fine diamond 
work, etc., are the other main features in the cutting. Around 
the rim is a four-inch silver border portraying in high relief 
strawberries and strawberry leaves, this latter being the work of 
the Mauser Manufacturing Company. The cup bears the in- 
scription: "Best pair of high steppers exceeding fifteen hands 
and not exceeding fifteen hands two inches. Oflfered by L, 
Straus & Sons." 

BELLEEK MANUFACTURE IN AMFRICA 

Part of the preparations for porcelain-making take place be- 
fore the materials reach the potter; but most of the ingfredients 
come to the factory in their raw state and are there calcined and 
ground as the different "bodies'* and "glazes" demand. The 
time necessary for grinding varies from hours to weeks, accord- 
ing to the different articles, but all the earthy substances must be 
reduced to an impalpable powder and cleared from any particles 
of iron or other foreign substances. The pulverized materials, 
mixed in proper proportions, are now ready for the "blungers'* 
or vats, in which they are "blunged" in water, so as to form a 
uniform cream-like mass, called "slip," which now goes into the 
"mixing pans," is drawn off, and after being sifted through fine 
silken lawn, is ready for the "caster." These purely mechanical 
operations require the closest attention, as the fine quality of the 
ware depends on the knowledge and care exercised in the mixing 
room, the potter's labothtory. 

The next point of interest is the clay-shop, where all the 
forms are modeled and cast. From the clay model a "block 
mould" in two exactly fitting. portions is made of plaster of paris 
and carefully preserved. From this "block modd" a "case" is 
made, that is. a plaster replica of the model, and from this case, in 
turn, as manv working moulds as m^y be required. Modeling 
and mould-making demand not only knowledge, skill and time, 
but foresight and experience, as the modeler must allow for 
shrinkage in firing* (about one-seventh of the size) and guard 
against the use of forms that will warp or sink in the fire. 
Handles, tops of vases, stands and bases, are all modeled and cast 
separately, so that one piece of ware may require four or five 
moulds. Besides the moulds used in casting, it is necessary to 
make many devices, such as rings and stands to hold certain forms 
in shape while undergoing the fire. 

The caster binds together the two portions of the mould, sets 
it upon his wheel, to which he gives a deft turn, and pours in the 
slip. If the piece he is making is to be smail and thin, he leaves 
the slip in the mould but a moment, then quickly pours out all 
that has not adhered to it; a thicker article requires a proportion- 
ately longer time. The sponge-like plaster readily absorbs the 
water in the slip, leaving a shell of clay, which, as it dries, shrinks 
away from the mould, while it retains its shaipe. The mould con- 
taining the embryo ware is then set in the "drying-room" unHl 
the clay shell is hard enough to be handled. 
{To be continued) 



Digitized by 



Google 



April 12, 189O 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



461 



HHMNI 



fc»»»KJI>«*»)MUMl»»»Ml » g 



The Straus American Cut Glass 



An extensive variety of pieces 
designed specially for presenta- 
tion purposes. 




Moderate Prices. 



REIQNS SUPREME 
in quality of crystal^ 
workmansljlp and 
brilliant finish. 



For the convenience of the 
trade, we have also prepared as- 
sortments at $50, $75 and $100. 
Illustrations of these may be had 
on application. 



L. STRAUS & SONS, Manufacturers, f 

42 to 46 WsLtttn Street, New York. I 



TRADE MARK. 



FACTORY t 

89th Street and North River, 

New York. 




- ,.f''-rr'~^-^ .p Pouyat China for '99 



OoctcTE La Ceramique 

J. POUYAT 

of LisaOGES , Fris\nce. 

ESTABUSHEO 1783 

NEW-YDRK.50Weal Bro&away 

PARIS, 72 Rue d'Hauteville. 

LONDON. 12 BarlleU's Buil dingus, Hoi bom Grxiua, 



^''^ 



r-^k'^^ 




It is a line replete with dainty novelties 
such as jewelers delight to exhibit to 
critical customers. 
See the new collection of samples at the 



NEW YORK 
OFFICE, 



50 West Broadway, 






or send us a postal card and we will 
have one of our travelers call upon you. 



JUNE WEDDINGS. 




Send for Catalogue. Electros fomislied for Advertkbig* 



^ 38 Murray St. 
NEW YORK 



AMERICAN CUT GLASS. 

Brilliant Finish. Best Workmanship* 
Moderate Prices* 

The FOREMOST Line in the Market To-day. 

New and Beautiful Shapes Dazztins: Effects. Tfae Dealer who handles "" BERGEN"^ CUT GLASS can defy competftioiu We pranlMd 

stunning things for this year — we've got them I 

Tj 1 OPIAN^ FAIENCE* ^^^^ ^^ ^ hlj^h-glaze J\tt POtttry in beautiful hlendings of dull Green, 

* ^^* ** ^* ^ * * * ^ -^ ♦ Mauve, and Brown. Each piece distinctive, no two alike ; Free Hand 

Decorations by eminent artists, in slight relief, great vaiiety in shapes, which are original creations or modifications of the Mediaeval. 

ClK £i«e H ipeCbiny aiiPttA for tlH Retail Jemkr, in that it is decorative in the highest degree and possesses strong sell- 
ing powers. J^rices for the different pieces vary from 50 ccnU to $100, accordmg to shape, size and dice ration. 

J. B. OWENS P01TERY CO., Main Office and Pot(ery, ZANLSVIUF, 0. 



M9W TOCK 9SI0ea ewflB I 

W. N. DUNN, M-rO WMt MrmUwy, 



BACCARAT GLASSWARE j 

(Cristalleries de Baccarat. France). s 

T»oeH»k Gilt, Engraved and Cut SteWMre | 

In many UNIQUE and HANDSOME DESIGNS, specially adapted for Retail Jewelers. | 

Lar^e variety oj CUT GLASS PIECES for Silversmiths, \ 

ftew YefiL Office. 41 WaiTMi Street. PAUL DURAND, Manaeer. 



SPECIALTIES IN w^ 
Di$f ert Plates* ?l$l) M9i eawe $ti$, efUf% mA 
Uttm, J\t\ Pieces, €tc«, €tc 

IN PINE GHINA. 
DAVISON BROS.t Show Roooio, 12 Barclay St.* New Yorlu 



Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



46? 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 12, 1899 



JSWELERS IN THE CUSHMAN 
BUILDING 

c. In our issue of March 29th we gave 
oof'^^a^^^ some iHust rations of tho 
fiEQte of-omces in the Cushman Building, 
o^icupied by J. B. Bowden & Co. On this 
page we* illustrate the offices of another 
jewelry fii'm, F. W. LeJwis & Co., deal- 
efcB in diamonds, pearls, rubies and em- 
ei^lds. This firm occupies offices on the 
tljiird floor of the Cushman Building, i 
^laiden lane. In appodntments and fit- 
tings these offices are "equal to any in 
New York, being of quartered oak, fin- 
ished in fret work and antique Japanese 
irt&n work, allowing the fr^ entrance of 
l^Jjt as wedl as being Wry ornamental. 
On entering the office the visitor passes 
into a reception room, which is fitted 
with settees, with window looking into 
t|Je bookkeeper's office, where you state 
j-xjur business before entering the sales- 
room, which is a large and commodious 
room fitted with elegant counters and 
chairs. This room also contains the 
safes. Fronting on Broadway are tw^ 
private offices, one of which is the pri- 
vate office of Fred W. Lewis, which is 
decorated very tastefully with ancient 
statuary and works of art. This firm 
makes a specialty of a fine class of 
goods, such as rare rubies, emeralds, 
pe;^rls, as''well as a stock of diamonds of 
^most every variety. 

THE PROPC»ED JEWELRY COMBI- 
NATION 

PRELIMINARY MEETING AT PROVIDENCE 

The first meeting of jewelry manu- 
facturers in New England to discuss the 
advisability of forming a combination 
or "trust" was held at the Narragan- 
sett Hotel, Friday morning. Seymour 
Bookman, a member of the New York 
Wxx>l Exchange, who had previously 
sent out the greater part of the invita- 
tions, acted as the representative for 
those back of the scheme. Few of the 
important manufacturers ©bowed much 
interest, so that the meeting was not 
very largely attended, and many of those' 
who did go were drawn more by curi- 
osity than anything else. Represent- 



JEWELERS. 

Cushman Building, 
I Maiden Lane 

' i..Fincst Location in New York, 
Rents Reasonable* ^^^ 

Apply 

G- F. WILCOXSON, 

t72 Ninth Avcnuct or on Premises 



^ 



Tii^ L^^UnjiQ. Building, Broadv 




Maiden Lane 



atives of the press were not allowed to 
remain at the meeting, ^^r. Bookman 
stating that the manufacturers did not 
wish to be quoted. At fh't^lq^c^pj the 
meeting, however, several of the man- 
ufacturers were willing to discuss the 
matter. Among those present were 
Michael Fitzgerald, A. A. Greene, of 
the A. A. Greene Comany; Benedict 
Lederer, of S. & B. Lederer; Adolph 
Lederer, of Henry Lederer & Brother; 
S. O. Bigney, of S. O. Bigney & Co.: 
Charles E. Hancock, of Hancock, Beck- 
er & Company; William H. Luther, of 
W. H. Luther & Son; James Smith, of 
Smith Brothers; Julius Palmer, of Pal- 
mer & Capron; H. N. Pervear. of the 
H. N. Pervear Company; H. A. Clark, 
of the Horton & Angell Company, At- 
tleboro; N. B. Nickerson; Secretary 
Carr, of the Ostby & Barton Company; 
R. F. Simmons & Company, Attleboro; 
the Cutler Jewelry Company, of this 
city; Regnall & Bigney, Attleboro, and 
a number of small con-cerns sent repre- 

I sentatives. Mr. Bookman introduced 
himself to the gentlemen present and 
spoke of the great advantages which 
would be derived from consolidation. 
He made particular reference to the suc- 
cess of combinations already fonnetl, 
but he had little to say as to how the 
jewelry combination would be organ- 
ized The meeting, 'he explained, was 
only a preliminary one to get the opin- 
ion of the manufacturers as to the ad- 
visability of the move* He thought that 
one result of such a consolidation would 
be an increase in prices. The appraisal 
of the factories and the setttement of 

^» cotber questions, including that of trade 
Wihi<ks, were brought up by some of the 
men present. Mr. Bookman i«n explain- 
ing his plans said that the proposed 
consolidation should not be considered 
as a trust, but as a combination of the 
forces\'9^ tJic jewpiry trade. He claimed 
that about (»seventy firms control 75 per 
cent, of the traHe^ and that the people 
behind him would have to secure at least 
75 per cent, of the interests before put 
tmg any money into the consolidation. 
He did not mentio^ the financial back- 





*"«««r(^<** ""*••'!, ^- 



Lewis & Co. in the Cushman Building. 



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April 12, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



463 



ers of the scheme, but said rtiat there was ample capital 
back of t^ie movement, and that it was likely manufacturers 
could meet the financial men at a meeting soon to be held in 
New York. When Mr. Bookman had finished several of the 
gentlemen present spoke in opposition to the plan, claiming that, 
even if thoroughly practicable, it would not be lor the interests 
of the manufacturer, the employe, or in fact for anyone con- 
nected with the trade at the present time, and that small concerns 
would be driven out of business. S. O. Bi-g^ney, one of the most 
successful jewelry men present at the meeting, was very out- 
spoken in his opposition; Mr. Fitzpatritk also spoke against the 
movement. Mr. Hancock, of the Hancock & Becker Company, 
thought that to control the trade it would be necessary to form 
three combinations, one to control the gold goods, one the 
plated goods, and one the brass goods. Mr. Bookman, how- 
ever, had provided £oc all emergencies, and exp4ained that this 
could be done by electing three sets of directors, one for each 
division of the traide, and that these directors could select an- 
other set which would have charge of the whole combination. 
The general impression gained by most of those at the meeting 
was that a jewelry trust was not wanted. Mr. Bigney declared 
that ihe would never enter such a combination, and there were 
many other manufacturers of the same mind. Mr. Benedict 
Lederer, of the firm of S. & B. Lederer, was the only one present 
at the meeting who seemed to favor the organization oi the trust, 
but although Mr. Bigney wanted to have a vote taken on the 
question, this was not done. ^ Nothing else transpired, but at the 
close of the meeting several manufacturers were very decisive in 
their talk about the proposed combination, and unless they 
change their minds the trust will never be organized, for they 
represent a good part of the trade in this vicinity. The sales- 
men naturally are unanimously opposed to the scheme, as it 
would throw thi^ee-fourths of them out of cmp^loyment, and many 
of them say that it would resuh in their combining for their own 
protection, in which event it is not improbable they would form . 
companies of their own and carry on business in opposition to 
the trust. They claim they coukl control a large portion of the 
trade. 

QUERIES AND TRADE NOTES 

IB tUt deputBMBt wm avpetr antwwiito «I1 oorretpondeiiot and qneriet 
that An of goneral interact iui4 nriioelUiiagy items and oonmeitt on matttn 
ia conaectiaB with the timde. 

WHO WILL PimCHASB TNB8B PATENTS? 

We have the following inquiry: ^ 

Dear Sirs: — Could yot| give me the address of a good concern 
whom I could get to manufacture a tobacco knife and tobacco 
planter, and also to whom I might sell or assign the patents for 
same? I shall also be glad of the address of some rubber man- 
ufacturing company who would purchase the patent for a device 
for preventing the fingers becoming soiled with ink whUe .writing. 

(Miss) B. Sims, 
Evergreen P. O., Appomattox County, Va. 



KIDDLE ATLANTIC STATB NEWS. 



WHO SUPPUB8 TNB8B OOODS? 

Dear Sir: I want to buy peddlers supplies, small notions, 
cheap jewelry, Ja(>anese pocket handkerchiefs, and, in fact, any 
small, light goods. I want goods of which I can take about a 
dozen different pieces, put them into a paper bag and oflfer them 
for say 25 cents. Can you not fefcr me to some houses in New 
York from which I conid get these goods? I already have Chas. 
Broadway Rouss* circulars, but there ought to be other finms in 
the same line in New York. If anv of them advertise in you- pa- 
per, couW you mail me a copy? I should like to hear fnom you 
by early mail. M. McCANN, 

Care Kimball House, Washington St., Albany, N. Y. 



^hto this tendlig win be fooiA wMk Vj wMk 1 
lie «bA leefol p«cMMl itine Inm the ttttee el Vtw Toik, Vtw Jrnm* 
P«BBeyt?aBiA, MuylAaA, Delawaxe «bA tbe TirflBlM. We ehall be |Ud to 
noetre from ov leedere for ineertloa ia tide eoivmn, notioee of leoioTal end 
beiineee chenfoe of en kind. SoOh notee ehoold reeeb «e Bot later tlutt 
MondAj morahkg in mtk week. 

NBW YORK 

At the last meeting of the Diamond Workers' Union, held at 
their headquarters, 64 East Fourth street, a committee was re- 
ceived from the Miscellaneous Section which urged it to join the 
Central Federated Union. 

£. Bissell & Co., auctioneers, held a trade sale of decorated 
china, bisque figures, vases, glass and Japanese goods last week. 
The offering was widely assorted and attracted a large company; 
competition was spirited for all desirable lines, and prices ruled 
satisfactory. 

The value of precious stones imported through this port last 
month was $1,711,911.12. Less than one-third were uncut This 
is more than twice as much as in March, 1898, and sixteen times 
as much as in March, 1897. 

The committee appointed by the Merchants' Association to 
consider the complaints of delay in the passage of dutiable goods 
through the Public Stores held a meeting at the Astor House 
last week. After a lengthy discussion the committee called upon 
Collector Bid well and discussed the matter with him, suggesting 
certain improvements in routine methods. 

A. B. Levy, 7 Astor House, is disposing of his stock and will 
retire from business on May ist. 

A defective electric light wi«*e caused a fire in the building 
occupied by Robt. Lambert & Bros., jewelers,- at 968 Third ave- 
nue. The damage was slight. 

The second annual reception and dinner of the Scientific Al- 
liance of New York was held at the Hotel Savoy last week. The 
Scientific Alliance comprises the members of the New York 
Academy of Sciences, the Torrey Botanical Club, the New York 
Microscopical Society, the Linnsean Society of N>ew York, and 
the New York Mineralogpical Qub. 

Emil Schneider, refiner of gold, silver and platinum, formerly 
at 9, II and 13 N. J. R. R. place, Newark, has removed to 451 
to 473 Riverside .avenue. He has a complete plant, and in his new 
quarters has increased facilities for smelting sweeps, etc. This 
concern does its own smelting. The trade is cordially invited 
to inspect the new plant. 

John B. Yates, formerly a manufacturing jeweler at 21 Maiden 
lane, was granted a discharge in bankruptcy last week by Judge 
Bcown, of thp U. S. District Court. 

A relic from the Windsor Hotel fire is ^hown in the window 
of Clairmont & Co., 129 E. 23d street. It is a pair of eyeglasses, 
the lenses of which have curled up from the heat. 

A. Kohn & Co., 2 Maiden Lane, have had their stio^ room 
painted and papered. 

A. Shuman^ 713 Broadway, is out of the city on business. 

Leon Hirsh has removed to his new quarters in the Lorsch 
Building, 37-39 Maiden Lane. 

Fred. Kaufman & Bro., 41 Maiden Lane, will remove to 565 
Broadway. 

R. Cohn, watches and diamonds, 180 Bowery, is selling out. 

E. S. Watkins, for ten years a clerk with P. W. Taylor, dia- 
mond dealer, Brooklyn, has accepted a position with the Brook- 
lyn branch of the Remington Bicycle Co. 

Through the energetic efforts of the Merchants' Association, 



The 



Mercantile National Bank 



OF THE CITY OF NBW YORK, 
BROADWAY AND DEY STREET, 

Solicits Accounts from the Jewelry Trade. 



Digitized by VjOOQ IC 



464 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 12, 1890 



the bill introduced at Albany to reduce the legal rate of interest 
to 5 per cent, has been defeated. A personal canvass was made 
of the entire State, and the merchants and county banks argued 
with. Four hundred thousand copies of a 16-page pamphlet were 
also distributed. It cost $12,000 to accomplish its defeat. 

B. F. Spink, dealer in diamonds and silverware, at 433 Ful- 
ton street, Brooklyn, will remove to his new building, 491 Fulton 
street. May ist. 

C. Falkart, jeweler and refiner, 26 Hoyt street, is seeking new 
quarters on Fulton street. 

H. Corn, of A. J. Corn & Bro., 506 Broadway, returned 
Wednesday from a business trip. They anticipate a good spring 
trade. 

H. A. Dillon, a jeweler, of Gloversville, N. Y., is in the city. 

Nathan Kaplan, a jewelry repairer, at 80 Nassau street, has 
filed a petition in bankruptcy to get rid of a judgment of $647, 
obtained against him on May 11, 1898. He has no assets. 

A meeting of the creditors of J. Turner Morehead, smelter, 
97 Cedar street, was held last Friday at the office of Referee in 
Bankruptcy Peter B. Olney. The schedules showed liabilities 
$575,384 and nominal assets $42,045. Albert P. Massey was 
elected trustee. 

Alfred Block and Bernard Atchoarena, jewelers, of Mexico 
City, were in town last week en route to Paris, France. 

Howard & Co., 264 Fifth avenue, are showing an extremely 
fine quality of Oriental pearls. 

A. E. Wood, representing J. B. & S. M. Knowles Co., of 
Providence, R. I., was in town during the past week. 

The Mutual Mercantile Agency, with a paid in capital of $2,- 
000,000, to be increased to $12,000,000, has been incorporated 
under the laws of the State of New Jersey. It is designed to fur- 
nish an entirely new systen* of conveying information touching 
the financial credit and status of business houses. 

Freudenheim Bros. & Levy, of Elmira, N. Y., will open a 
branch office in the Fahy Bldg., 54 Maiden Lane. 

Simon Frankel, of Joseph Frankel's Sons, will leave for Eu- 
rope next week. 

An attachment for $10,000 has been issued against the Joseph 
Ladue Gold Mining an<i Development Company, which has of- 
fices at 20 Nassau street. The attachment is in favor of Morton 
C. Nichols, of tWs city. Mr. Nidhols agreed to purchase $10,000 
worth of stock and paid that amount in cash on August 28, 1897. 
He declares that he has failed to receive his stock, although the 
company has retained the money. The company is capitalized 
at $5,000,000. SheriflF O'Donnell has put a keeper in the com- 
pany's office. 

F. Kohn has removed from 41 to 37-39 Maiden Lane. 

Two young men entered the pawnbroker's sale store kept by 
Nathan Hebald, at 3515^ Bowery, Monday afternoon and asked 
to see some diamond rings. Three rings, worth $50, $90 and 
$110, were placed on the counter for examination, when sud- 
denly one of the men threw a paper of snuflf into Hebald's eyes, 
blinding him. Though unable to see, Hebald made a grab for 
the man and gripped him by the coat. The men struggled and 
fought from the store to the sidewalk, when Detective Faurot, of 
Police Headquarters, who was passing, saw the trouble and made 
the snuflf thrower a prisoner. The thief was taken to Police 
Headquarters, where he gave his name as James King. Dur- 
ing his examination one of the diamond rings was found in his 
mouth. His confederate escaped. 

John H. Welsh, for thirty-seven years a retail jeweler in this 
city, and formerly located at 271 Greenwich street, has brought 
an action in the Supreme Court against his elder daughter, Mrs. 
Belle V. Raymond, for the purpose of getting possession of 
property in Greenwich street, which formerly belonged to him, 
but which he deeded to her on May 8, 1895, without any consider- 
ation. He claims that through misrepresentation Mrs. Raymond 
secured the transfer of the propverty, and that finally on March 
14 last she demanded of her mother that he should leave the 
house. Mr. Welsh further states that she is still endeavoring to 
force him from home and is seeking to influence his wife agai^^^ 
him. He asks the Court to cancel the deeds ^ ^^^Ord fv> ap- 
point a receiver for the property, and to conjnei '^^^ *^ reiirf f ^^ 
accounting of rents collected since Afay r/^ 



The strike of diamond workers at the establishment oi Kryn 
& Wouters, Brooklyti,- is as yet unsettled, and nothing can be 
done toward a settlement until the arrival of Mr. Kryn Irom 
Europe. The men struck, April 6, on actount of a dilute over 
the question of wages. A finer quality of work was demanded 
by the firm at the old schedule of wages, and the men refusted to 
do the work unless they were granted an increase in accordance 
with the quality of the work desired. The international head- 
quarters of the Union at Amsterdam, Holland, is contributing 
$400 weekly to aid the strikers, and the local diamond workers 
have also contributed several hundred dollars. They expect to 
win. In the meantime the firm has been obliged to shut down. 

The action of William F. Doll, a dealer in watches at 13 
Maiden Lane, to enjoin the authorities from preventing him using 
the Speedway for bicycling, riding in a iheavy carriage and on 
horseback, came up for trial before Judge Gildersleeve, of the 
Supreme Court, last week. Mr. Doll, who had been arrested 
for riding a bicycle on the Speedway, tried to ride in a landau 
and on horseback so as to make a test case as to each of these 
means of conveyance. The action ds directed against the Park 
Commissioners, Chief of Police Devery and Police Captain 
Kirchncr. Judge Gildersleeve said he could not see how the ac- 
tion could prevail, but that he would reserve decision. To a Re- 
view reporter Mr. Doll said that he expected that the decision of 
Judge Gildersleev<e will be against him, and the case would tftien 
be carried to the Appellate Division of the Court, where the de- 
cision would doubtless be reversed. 

Jos. P. Jackson, Jr., who some months ago purchased the 
business of John G. Foley, manufacturer of gold pens, at 189 
Broadway, is in trouble. Only a portion of the purchase money 
was paid at the time, the balance being secured by a mortgage 
on the factory, stock and fixtures. For several months he has 
failed to pay any rent or interest on the mortgage and Mr. Foley 
was forced to foreclose. The marshal is now in possession. 

It was reported in some of the daily papers that H. Unger, of 
Unger Brothers & Co., 412 Haley street, Newark, N. J., was 
dead. The report is contradicted by Mr. Unger 'himself, who 
says he was never in better health. 

John G. Foley, Jr., manufacturer of gold pens, at 2 Astor 
House, will remove May i to 6 Astor House. 

Judge O'Brien, sitting in 4he Appellate Division of the Su- 
preme Court, has rendered an opinion in the case of the Illinois 
Watch Company vs. Payne. Judgment is reversed and a newr 
trial ordered. 

Both the Seth Thomas Clock Company and Waterbury Clock 
Company are furnishing a considerable quantity of their goods to 
the Quartermaster's Department They go principally to San 
Juan and Porto Rico. 

The Treasury Department has made an important ruling gov- 
erning the stamp tax on entries of speciie and gold and siK'er 
bullion. It holds rtiat such entries when imported as money, or 
its equivalent, to pay for merchandise imported or to be exported, 
are subject to the stamp tax imposed by the act of June 13 last. 

A judgment has been filed by the Aluminum Specialty Com- 
pany for $382.67 in Savor of M. J. Straus. 

C. Lamb, watchmaker and jeweler, will remove from 9 Cham- 
bers street to 150 Park Row. 

The wholesale dealers in pearls report a great scarcity in the 
market. They report orders iwhich they could fill at their own 
prices if there were any pearls to be had. 

The Executive Committee of Group 6 of t^e New York State 
Bankers' Association met last Friday aiternoon at the Hotel 
Manhattan to discuss the question of the recent imposition of a 
charge on the collection of country checks by the New York 
banks. No plan of action was decided upon. Another meet- 
ing to consider the question will be held the latter part of next 
month. 

Edward Grabenstein, formerly a clock manufacturer at 158 
Wooster street, has filed a petition in bankruptcy, with liabilities 
of $15,466 and no assets. 

Brown & Ward, manufacturers of sterling silver novelties, at 
127 West Thirty-second street, are succeeded by the Wm. A. 
Brown Co., Inc. The capital stock is $50,000, with $15,000 paid 
in* 



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April 12, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



465 



MCCORMICK OPTICAL COLLEGE, 

CHICAGO. 

Is a First-Class School in every particular. It has just issued a new prospectus, 
and will send it free to all interested enough to ask for it, saying they saw this ad- 
vertisement in the Review. 

"OPTICAL TRUTHS/* illustrated with colored plates, postpaid, $2.00. 



Among the petitions in bankruptcy filed in the County Qerk's 
office, the past week, was that of the Mockbridge Sterling Co. 
Liabilities, $12,684.57. 

D. B. Bedell & Co., 866 Broadway, dealers in imported china 
and clocks, are disposing of their stock, preparatory to remov- 
ing to their new quarters at 256 Fifth avenue. 

One of the most beautiful and costly collections of glass, 
china and pottery ever brought together is displayed by Davis, 
Collamore & Co., Broadway and Twenty-first street. The 
display of Rookwood pottery in itself is an art exhibit of no 
mean pretensions. 

ALBANY, N. Y. 

The sword which was presented by the citizens of Albany to 
Commander Daniel Delehanty, the Governor of Sailors' Snug 
Harbor, at Staten Island, last Saturday, is a fine piece of work- 
manship of which the designers, James Mix & Sons, of this city, 
are justly proud. The making of the sword was placed in their 
hands by the Citizens* Committee and was manufactured from de- 
signs drawn by them, by the Gorham Manufacturing Company 
of New York. The cost of the weapon was $800, which is said 
to be the highest price paid for a sword of thi§ kind, in the orna- 
mentation of which no jewels are i»ed. Gold and steel are the 
only metals which entered into its composition. The unique 
beauty of the sword lies in the hand work lavished on these gold 
ornaments. 

Through the adroitness and perseverance of Mr. Moores, 
of the jewelry firm of Moores & Winder, of Troy, two daring 
thieves who made things very unpleasant for members of that 
city and Albany last Saturday, have been apprehended and will 
probably be brought to justice. 



TRENTON 

George F. Applegate, the optician at the corner of Warren 
and State streets, has been making extensive improvements on 
the interior of his store. In addition to other innovations, Mr. 
Applegate has narrowed down his show windows so as to ^ivc 
plenty of store .space to his increasing business. A line of type- 
writers has been added to the business. 

Leech, Stiles & Co. is the name of a firm of eye specialists 
which have recently opened an ofHce in the Forst-Richey Build- 
ing on State street. 

Six new finishers from Elgin, Mass., arrived in this city last 
week to accept positions at the Trenton Watch Factory. 

The Watch Factory gave its employes a holiday last Friday 
because of the return home of three companies of Trenton sol- 
diers from the recently mustered out Fourth New Jersey Volun- 
teers. 

PHILADBLPNIA 

The offices of L. C. Reisner & Co., and L. P. White, 706 Chest- 
nut street, have been refitted and many improvements made. A 
new entrance has been added, making access to Reisner's office 
much more direct. 

Several names have been added to the sick list among the 
jewelers this week. In addition to those already mentioned in 



these columns are James Barry, Jr., the popular young secre- 
tary of the Jewelers' Club; A. H. Kennedy, of Second street be- 
low Market, and L. H. Becker, .of 1431 South Seventh street. 
Mr. Becker is said to be dangerously ill with typhoid. 

John Smedley, manager for the Philadelphia branch of L. C. 
Reisner & Co., of Lancaster, Pa., was in New York several days 
last week purchasing goods for his house. The report that Mr. 
Smedley was succeeded in the management of the Quaker City 
branch by L. C. Williams, formerly of the L. A. Scherr Co., is an 
error. Mr. Williams is Mr. Smedley's assistant. 

The funeral of J. H. Thulier, a widely-known jeweler whose 
store, at 1135 Passyunk avenue, was one of the features of down- 
town business circles, was held on Saturday. The services were 
attended by many representatives of the jewelry trade. 

May 9th is the date set for the annual planked shad dinner 
of the Jewelers' Club. The date was changed from May 25th for 
the convenience of many New York members of the club. The 
place has not yet been definitely decided upon, but the committee 
strongly favors the old Lazaretta, at Essington, on the Delaware 
River, and it is probable that place will be chosen. 



pirrsBURQ 

James Best has removed from 121 Sixth street to 128, almost 
directly oposite his former location. 

Aaron West has taken desk room in the Eichbaum Building 
with Charles Holyland. He will devote his entire time to the 
sale of precious stones. 

Charles Holyland took possession on April ist of his new 
office in the Eichbaum Building. 

J. C. ShaeflFer, for many years located at 3709 Fifth avenue, 
Oakland, has removed to 3619 into more commodious quarters. 

G. L. Ruff, formerly in business at 626 Penn avenue, and after- 
wards with Geo. W. Biggs as watchmaker, has opened a new 
store at Johnstown, Pa. 

C. A. Beyer, watchmaker for J. P. Steinman, of Allegheny, 
has accepted a similar position with George W. Biggs & Co., of 
the Lewis Block. 

L. W. Vilsack has just finished giving his store a general 
overhauling and a new coat of paint, making it one of the most 
attractive stores in the city. 

M. G. Sanes opened a new store at Wilmerding, Pa., last 
week. He was calling on the trade during the week completing 
his purchases. 

Wade W. Williams, the traveling representative for Arnold & 
Steere, was in the city last week accompanied by his bride. 
While here he was the recipient of numerous attentions at the 
hands of his many friends among the trade, who wish him all 
the success and happiness that belongs to a happy married life. 

W. E. Stieren has again been obliged to lease additional room 
owing to the increase in his business and the crowded condition 
of his quarters. He has rented temporarily the adjoining build- 
ing on Smithfield street, which he will use as the phonograph 
department. 

Charles Kopp, for many years with E. Dietzken & Co., of 
New York, has come to this city to assume the managership of 
the engineering department for William E. Stieren. 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 12, 1899 



S 



TERN BROS. & CO. 



CUTTERS AND 
IMPORTERS OF 



DIAMONDS 



Gsttinf Worktt 140.146 West f4tii StMCt 
Londoa Officet 29 By Place 



Coma John and Nassau Streets 
NEW YORK 



HOROLOGICAL SOCIETY QF PHILADELPHIA 

ANNUAL MEETING 

The annual meeting of the Horological Society of Philadel- 
p'hia was held on Thursday evening, April 6th, at the society's 
rooms in Bank Hall, President William T. Lewis in the chair. 

A lOO-punch rivet staking tool, donated to the society by 
the Faneuil Watch Tool Company, is offered by the society as 
a prize to be presented in a competition to be held under its 
auspices, for the "best essay on any horological subject," and a 
committee previously appointed, consisting of Messrs. Ferd. T. 
Haschka, Louis Brekinger and Geo. S. Cullen, presented the 
following report, which was accepted: 

RULB8 QOVKRNING THE COMPETITION FOR THE RIVET 
STAKING TOOL 
1— The essajs shall treat on some subject of horoloiry; they must be writ- 
ten In the English langnage, and on one side of the paper only. 

i— Each essay most be marked with a nom de-plnme selected by the writer, 
and if drawinfFS are sent, they must be in India ink and marlied with the same 



financial secretary, J. Fred Raff; executive committee, Ferd. T. 
Has.(;lika, J. B. Janssen, Ed. T. Corry, John H. Townsend and 
Chas. F. Haas. 

The Philadelphia Exposition, under the auspices of the Phila- 
delphia Commercial Museum and the Franklin Institute, will be 
opened in that city on September 14th next, and will be held 
open until November. The work both of the Commercial Mu- 
seum and the Franklin Institute is directed towards the further- 
ance of American export trade. The Congress of the United 
States, the Legislature of Pennsylvania and the councils of Phila- 
delphia have also formally endorsed it, and liberal appropriations 
have been made towards extensive and substantial buildings, a 
cut of which is herewith shown. The main group of buildings 
is so constructed as to comprise an imposing structure about 
400x900 feet in extreme dimensions, and covering an area of 
more than eight acres. Every convenience possible is being pre- 
pared to facilitate the transportation of visitors and to provide 
for their comfort. 




The P^position Buildings, Philadelphia. 



nom-de-plume. .Eaoh< 



^ ay must be accompanied by a sealed envelope w^ich 

shall bear the same nomde-nlume as the essay and in which roe real nam^tit 
the writer can be f onnd. No other marks of identity must be on essay, draw- 
inir« envelope or wrapper. 

8— All essays in this competition must be in the hands of the Secretkiy, 
F. C. Dwyer, 157 North itOth street, Philadelphia, Pa , on or before October I. 
18M. 

4— The essays will be referred to three Judges, who will report to the 
society by the November meetlnf? for the awarding of the prize. ■ 

-'5 -Every ems s|ialidt|ed will remain the property of tne writer, but right 
of publication wm be ftlrowed the trade JonnialB. 

6— Should the society decide that no essay submitted is of sufficient merit 
it reserves the right to hold the prize for some later competition. 



The president in presenting his annual report congratulated 
the society upon the usefulness of its organization and the good 
work accomplished through the medium of lectures and 
question box, and upon the instructive papers prepared by mem- 
bers and read before the society. He made particular mention 
of tfhe tower clock in the public buildings of Philadelphia, and 
regretted that the suggestion to have the arc lights at the top 
of the tower automatically extinguished for sixty seconds at the 
hour was not adopted. He called attention to the invitation ex- 
tended the society to assist in the creation of a horological sec- 
tion at the exposition under the auspices of the Commercial 
Museum and Franklin Institute in Philadelphia next fall. 

The annual report of the secretary, Frederick C. Dwyer, 
showed a prosperous year, with increased membership. 

After a vote of thanks was given by the society to the retiring 
officers for their efficient work during the past year, an election 
was held for officers for the ensuing year, resulting as follows: 

President, William T. Lewis; first vice-president, Charles 
Murset; second vice-president, Geo. S. Cullen; third vice-presi- 
dent, James Orr; corresponding secretary, Frederick C, Dwyer; 



AMERICAN VALTHAM WATCH CO. v^ U.S. WATCH CO 

DECREE OF THE SUPREME JUDICIAL COURT 

In last week's issue we noted the fact that at last the above 
case had been brought to a conclusion when a decree was 
handed down on March 31st by Justice Marcus P. Knowlton^ 
The terms of this decree, which is an injunctiiOfijac^av:^ the di 
fendant company, are as follows: " 

Supreme Judicial Court. Suffolk County. In Equity. 

American Waltham Watch Company tw. United States Watch Company. 
DECREE. 

This case came on to be further heard at this term and was argued by 
counsel ; and thereupon, upon consideration thereof, it is ordered, adjudged 
and decreed that the respondent, its agents, attorneys and counsellors are 
hereby enjoined to desist and refrain : 

Prom using the combined words '* Waltham Watch" or ** Waltham 
Watches," either by themselves or in combination with other words in con- 
nection with, or in describing, advertising or selling watches, or parts of 
watches ; 

From using the word '* Waltham ** in any advertisement of its watches 
otherwise than geographically in connection with the word ''Maasaohnsetts^* 
or the abbreviation ** Mass." in giving its place of business, and are required 
in all advertisements hereafter issned to take precautions to distinguish the 
defendant from the plaintiff to the full extent of commercial practaoability ; 

From using the word '* Waltham." with or without other words, on the 
dials of its watches ; from making, selling or disposing of watches or parts of 
watches having plates inscribed with the word "^Waltham" unless ac- 
companied by the word **Mass.." and unless there is also prominently ooUo- 
cated with the word '"Waltham," the words "A new watch company at 
Waltham. established 1885," and unless its corporate name whether in full or 
abbreviated is printed on such plates in letters easily legible : from using the 
word " Waltham " in any such way as to induce the belief that its watches are 
made by the plaintiff ; and from doing anything to avail itself of the reputa- 
tion of the plaintiff's watches to increase the sale of its own. 

This injunction shall not apply to inscriptions now on the plates and 
dials of watches heretofore sold and delivered in the ordinary course' of busi- 
ness by the defendant to bona fide purchasers, nor to the plates of watches 
heretofore finished by the defendant so far as to be fitted but not sold and 
delivered, a sworn list of which last named watches with the numbers thereof 
shall be filed wlUi the Court within two weeks, and quarterly returns of sales 
thereof shall be returned to the Court under oath. 



/ 



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April 12, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



467 



DIAMONDS ANP OTHER PREOOUS STONE& 
Under this liead will appear all matter of interest to lapldaziee, indnding 
foxeicn diamond market reports and all other newt relatinf to precious stones. 
While we cannot publish all correspondence reoeiTed, yoc mattsn of iateiesc 
win always reoeiye a place in this department. 

STATE OP THE PORBIQN OEM MARKETS 

FROM OUR SPECIAL CORRESPONDENTS 

London, April 2. — We have had the usual supply of diamond 
buyers here this week, and the supply of stones was quickly dis- 
posed of. One very fine line of silver capes w^s bought for a New 
York house and wiH arrive on the same steamer as this letter. 
There has been general complaint as to the sorting of stones. 
Now the syndicate has the contract for two years, they intend 
to cut both ways, raising the price 5 per cent, now and then. 
Personally I have nothing agaiinst raising the price of roujjh, 
but the goods ought to be sorted honestly, which I think c^n be , 
done if all buyers unite. The polish market was very active this. 
week, and several large lots of goods were sold, all for home and 
colonial consumption. The demand for colored stones, emeralds, 
pearls and olivines has been first rate. M. de LYON. 

Amsterdam, April 2. — It would seem from the fact that we 
have only 200 men idle that all our manufacturers are very busy. 
The majority, however, who are employed are only cutting 
melees. A great many buyers from all parts of the world are 
here, and a great many Americans among them. Severai of our 
rough buyers arrived to-day from London and some made pur- 
chases. Wc have shipped several parcels of goods to America 
recently. Mr. Fox, of Fox Brothers & Co., of Cincinnati, is 
expected here soon. We had a piece of news here that L. Tan- 
nenbaum is cutting in partnership with Joseph Con. Several 
polishers at Kryn & Wauters' factory have written to their friends 
that if the strike continues they will start for home agadn. 

H. CHARLES. 



HERE AND THERE 

Trouble has arisen over a cut in wages at the Anchor Silver 
Plate Company, Oswego, N. Y. Manager Seliger is out of the 
city, and it is probable that no amicable adjustment oi the trou- 
ble can be made until he returns. 

Denbel Bros., Canton, O., have removed into their new 
quarters in the Schaefer block. 

Thf Meriden Cutlery Company, Meridcn, Conn., which has 
been running forty eight hours a week, has started on a new 
schediile and will now run fifty-five hours. 

The stock of G. N. Luckey, at Baldwinsvillc, N. Y., was 
damaged by fire last week. 

James R. Andrews, Vallejo, Cal., has been awarded a patent 
for a device which automatically indicates when a clock has run 
down. ^.7.. ,^^. .^. ,^ 

J. M. Creer, a jeweler, of TlarrisonviTle, Mo., w^o has been ill 
for some time, is reported to be very much wors^f and his friends 
do not expect him to live. -• 

George Bonelli, Kingman, Ariz., will ngMr devote his enti'C 
time to the jewelry and watchmaking burfness, having sold his 
meat business. 

H. H. Arnold has traded his stock of drugs in Franklin, Tex., 
for a stock of jewelry. 

The jewelry establishment of M. Marshall, along with other 
business buildings in San Louis Obispo, Cal., has been burned 
out. 

BUSINESS TROUBLES 

E. Lytle, a prominent jeweler of St. Paul, has presented a peti- 
tion in bankruptcy, and John F. Hilscher has been made trustee. 
The assets are: Real estate, $60,000; stock, $35»ooo; exempt, $11,- 
000. Liabilities, secured, $39,070.01; unsecured, $32,45.138; ^^' 
paid taxes, $965.92. 



Kwtm 



Two Qood Books that V^«t 
may Prove UsefuJ to I VJU 

Speeches-and ^ 
Speech Making: 

BT Judge J. W. Doaoym. 

^TUt book apoii Its apDeMuce obttliiad aa 
faBmediateMdwklMprMdpopuUrity. Andihtt 
te naturml. for it to of pnctkal Interest uid valiie 
to OTcrr oua who hM or hopes tat any proml- 
BCfwe In Us community. It conttins nearly 
300 IMSeS. fWng Piactical hfaits 
6oCh as to oreparlnff um» deliverl— 
examples of speeches for themanj 
caslona on which we are all apt to I 
ft>r speeches, when we have not time to prepare 
and must depend npon the preparation of times 
past. This book viU aid one to prefwre for 
Mich OCCllsioll5« The sooner a man begins 
10 prepare die better, for be otanot become a 
good public speaker at a bound, but public speak- 
ers are.made as weU as bom. 

Hi«dioimlyhi»>dh.qQih. %\MMm^ 

Model Banquet 
Speeches, 

BT Famous BAnquar Spxubbs. 

Here we offer you the finest collection of after- 
dinner speeches ever grathered together In one 
bcwok. for they are not a collection of the utter- 
ances of one man. but are the be&t efTortsof many 
men famous at the banquet board , such as Thomas 

A. Hendricks, Senator Vilas. lame* C. Jenkini, 
Geo. W, Wakefield. Thomas F, Bayard. Gen. J. 
C. BUck. Rev, Wm. E. Park, Dr. Hirsch, John 

B. Green, Henry Wollman, Joseph C, Hendrix, 

iudge Grosicup, Senator Foraker. Chauncey M. 
)epew; and many others "of infinite jest, of 
most excellent fancy and flashes of merriment 
that were wont to set the tables on a roar." The 
speeches here given cover an infinite variety of 
subjects and occ*iions— bar banquets, business 
men's banquets, political banquets, occasioosl 
eelcteations. »nd all kinds and conditions of so* 
doty gatherings. The after-dinner speaker, or 
MM 1^ would be such, wants this book. 

HiiidgoiiiitykwdliCtatt,SI.60drfviftd> 

THE JEWELERS REVIEW. 



Those of you who do not carry a stock of stones — 
I respectfully call your attention to my cash order 
business. 

By trading with me you get the best goods, and 
don'tpay the jobber's profits. 
On receipt of price and size of goods wanted, the same is sent by return 
mail. If not what desired, I will cheerfully exchange or refund the money. 
It pays to buy direct of the importers. 

ROBT. BURNHAM 




Dealer In Precious $t<>nes and Minerals 



121 Clip ST., PROVDEHCE, R. I. 




l)0(er Jliidersoit 

PITTSBURGH, PA. 

Centrally located and easily accenj-ible to 
business part of the city. 

AMPLE SECURITY TO 

JEWELERS' SAMPLES. 

American Plan. $3.00 to $5.00 a day. 

HENRY McKINNIE. 



)'♦! 



D. W. C05TIGAN & CO. 



BPDY §Tf iconerofciifidrdh Providcnce, R.I, 

Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



468 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 12, iSgp 



Judge Townsend, in the United States District Court at New 
Haven, on the 5th, gave a hearing on the motion of creditors 
of Calvin M. Tiffany, of South Manchester, bankrupt, to have 
th€ ssile to M. S. Chapman of certain property of Mr. Tiffany 
set asiide. Mr. Tiffany was engaged in the jewelry business at 
the time he went into bankruptcy some months ago. Mr. Wat- 
kins was appointed trustee of the estate. He disposed of the 
stock erf jewelry to Mr. Chapman for $1,700 and Mr. Tiffany went 
back into tlie store and conducted the business. The creditors 
claim that Mr. Watkins could have obtained more for the stock 
than he did, and it is their desire that the sale to Mr. Chapman 
be declared void. The creditors are Henry Green, of Cam- 
bridge, Mass.; A. T. Morrill, of Boston; Morrill Brothers Com- 
pany, of Boston; International Trust Company, of Boston; J. B. 
Humphrey, of Somerville, Mass., and the Crescent Watch Case 
Company, of New Jersey. 

The assignee of the Campbell-Metcalf Silver Company, Provi- 
dence, R. I., has filed a petition for the relief of the company from 
insolvency, and last Friday a hearing was given on the petition 
before Loring I. Cook, Register in Insolvency. The testimony 
heard was in re'lation to the claim of the Holmes & Edwards 
Silver Company. Cyrus M. Van Slyck, the attorney for the as- 
signee, Alibert A. Remington, explained that the claim was ob- 
jected to because while there were notes out for an amount of 
about $6,000, there were charges to offset this amounting to 
$3,000 for goods, $2,100 credited improperly, and about $400 for 
samples, making in all a total of about $5,500. 

The committee of creditors of Walter D. Tusten, Houston, 
Tex., composed of S. Frankel, C. G. Alford and J. B. Bowden, 
have through the New York Jewelers' Association, who have 
the matter in charge, dedared a casli dividend of 45 per cent, in 
the above matter. They have sent out checks to the different 

NEIT BUSINESS VENTURES 

Schultz, Leiss & Co., of Newark, N. J., have been incorpor- 
ated under the laws of the State of New Jersey. The corpor- 
ators are Fred L. Schultz, John N. Leiss and John C. Lapp. 

Articles of incorporation of the American Smelting & Re- 
fining Co., with a capital of $65,000,000, have been filed at Tren- 
ton, N. J. 

J. Postley has opened a branch at 113 Summit street, To- 
ledo, O. 

T. P. Eastland has opened up in the jewelry business in Glen- 
wood Springs, Col., having removed to that city from his old 
location in Victoria, Tex. 

G. W. Horner has opened up a stock of jewelry in Airn, Ore., 
having removed from Lebanon, Ore., to that point. 

Charles Goodrich has opened up a jewelry store in Carruthers- 
ville, Mo., having moved his stock to that point from the old 
location in Osceola, Ark. 

J. H. Searfoss, who has for a number of years been working 
as a watchmaker in Kansas City, Mo., is making preparatrons to 
open up a new jewelry store in Smith ville. Mo. 

A new stock of jewelry has been opened at 325 College street, 
Springfield, Mo., by Andrew Meyers. 



BUSINESS CHANGES 

Chas. Craff has purchased the business of Charles Aylor, at 
Birmingham, La. 

A partnership has been formed between Joseph Geiwitz and 
M. N. Grasby at La Crosse, Minn. 

Poole & McCammon is the name of a new jewelry firm at 
Oxford. La. 

F. R. Smith, formerly of Davenport, la., has formed a part- 
nership with G. R. Strickland, New London, Wis. 

C. D. Strong, Manchester. Mass., has sold out his business 
and accepted a position with an optical establishment at Boston. 

The firm of Gainor & Crowley, jewelers and opticians, Troy, 
N. Y., has been dissolved. E. P. Gainor will carry on the busi- 
ness at the same location. 

D. W. Drake, of Washington, N. J., has moved to JC^fie, Pa. 
H. M. Shreirter, of Lancaster, Pa., is selling ou^ 

W. H. De Lamater, of South Pittsburg, Tenn., h^. ^c^ to 
iCiwiavill^ hO 



W. J. Kelley, of Oshkosh, Wis., has sold his stock to E. 
Epstein. 

William Black, of Montgomery, Ala., is selling out his stock. 

Charles Goodrich, of Osceola, Ark.,* has moved td'^arlPrticrs- 
ville, Mo. 

F. H. Eickmeyer, of New Branch, Minn., is closing out. 

C. S. Raymond & Co., Omaha, Neb., has been succeeded by 
Mawhinney & Holliday. 

Wm. Dewitt has purchased the stock of Krepps & Dewitt, 
jewelers, of St. Johns, Mich. 

A. M. Hill, jeweler, of New Orleans, La., will retire from 
business. He is disposing of his stock by auction. 

J. C. Smith has sold out his stock of jewelry, etc., in SHverton, 
Oregon. 

C. W. Castello has opened up a new stock of jewelry, etc., 
in Pleasanton, Kan. 

The C. S. Raymond Company have sold out their Jarge retail 
jewelry business in Omaha, Neb., and the name of the firm which 
has succeeded to the stock and good will is Mawrinney & Hol- 
liday. 

B. H. Bt-attic has removed his entire stock of jewel*-y from 
the old location in Turon, Kan. 

William Benzion has admitted a partner to his wholesale jew- 
elry business in Denver, Col., and the style of the new firm is 
Benzion & Zwetow. 

C. W. Crosby has sold out his entire stock of jewelry in 
Brookfield, Mo , tu J. H. Tuoss. 

Olney & Stock have been succeeded in the jewelry and drug 
tnisiucss by the Stock Drug Company, Sheffield, la. 

Albert Miller, the veteran jeweler, of Dundee, 111., has re- 
tired on account of his health. 



DEEDS AND MORTGAGES 

M. Teriiune, of Chicago, 111., has given a chattel mortgage for 
$6,000. 

G. G. Brown, of Kansas City, Mo., has executed a chattel 
mortgage for $150. 

Gustav Moritz, dealer in optical goods, St. Louis, Mo., has 
executed a chattel mortgage for $700. 

J. S, Lewis, of the jewejry firm of J. S. Lewis & Co.. in 
Ogden, Utah, has given a warranty deed for a consideration of $1. 

Gustave Moritz, a dealer in optical goods in St. Louis, Mo., 
has given a chattel mortgage for $700. 

M. White, who has a jewelry store in Davis, I. T., has filed 
a mortgage for $67.50. 

Frank L. Ainsworth, who has a jewelry store in Oelwein, la., 
has given a chattel mortgage for $100. 

George C. Brown, a jeweler of Kansas City, Mo., has given 
a chattel mortgage on tools and fixtures for $150. 



PUBUCATIONS RECEIVED 

In this colonm we shall note the interettinir ftetiitet «f #ar ^arlovr be- 
chances and shaU give notes of the trade pnblicattou wftich Are lasoed; We 
invite our readers to send us their new catalogaes, cinmlars, and other pabU- 
cations of general interest, to which "-^ shall he pleased to devote a portkM 
of this space. 

We have received from the McCormick Optical CoHege, 
84 Adams street, Chicago, a copy of their prospectus for 1899. 
The college faculty is made up of Charles McCormick, M. D., 
president; W. C. Loar, A. M., M. D., Professor of Physiology; 
Wm. B. Hunt, M. D., surgeon pathology, and Frank Rumble, 
Oph. D., vice-president and treasurer. Professor of Ophthal- 
mology and Mathematics. Besides being thorough and con- 
cise in its object, the prospectus is neatly illustrated and attrac- 
tive in appearance. After describing the methods of the col- 
lege and giving a terse summary of the rules and regulations gov- 
erning the in-stitution, which set forth the requirements and facts 
about degrees, there follows a series of interesting illustra- 
tions upon optical subjects. These illustrations are designed to 
show the origin of the nerve supply and the eyes, a normal retina, 
an emibolism or thrombosis, a retinal hemorrhage, vessels turn- 
ing at edge of disc, and a case of papillitis or choked disc. A 
full three pages at the end are taken up with a list of substantial 
references. 



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April 12, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



469 



PAOnC AND ROCKY MCXJNTAIN NEWS. 

mOM OUK SPECIAL COIWXSPOICDBKTS. 



is no9kftd fnm. thorn Statat borderinc «■ 
tht Padfle aiid tztendiaf laland to the Bockj MouitAiiit. Timde bows and 
eonaa pon d e ncs fkooi ovr nadart ia alwaya wtilooma and ahoold ba laoairad at 
thia ottea aot latar tham Mbiidaj moraine in aach waak. 
SAN FRANCISCO 

This past week Geo. H. Kahn shipped on order to Manila two 
Bausch & Lomb-Zeiss stereo field glasses, power of twelve times, 
at $80 each. Optician Kahn is much in favor of expansion, and 
speaks enthusiastically of the good trade expansion he is ex- 
periencing in the way of Philippine Islands business that is com- 
ing his way via every boat-. 

A. N. Sanford, late of the optical goods firm, A. N. Sanford 
& Co., and a prime factor of the recently organized California 
Association of Opticians, embarked on the last steamer from this 
port for Honolulu, where -he has accepted a business connection 
with the large optical goods, jewelry and diamond house of H. 
F. Wichman. Numerous members of the Optical Association 
escorted Mr. Sanford to his steamship and wished him a safe 
voyage and prosperity in his new field of laibor. 

Dt. A. C. Posey, an oculist of many years' practice in this 
city and Oakland, was met on the 4th inst. in the store of the 
Standard Optical Company, where he was liberally outfitting 
himself with a stock of optical goods he is going to take with 
him next week, when he will embark for Manila, where he is 
going to open business as optician and practicing oculist. 



SBATTLB, WASH. 

A new class of fakir, even to Seattle, has struck town. The 
"Ural Mountain Diamond Co." has taken a pretentious red brick 
corner in the best business district, and its magnificent plate 
glass show windows permit the rays of plate-glass "Ural dia- 
monds" to glitter forth. Of course, there are electric lights and 
lavender cloth to help the "diamonds" sparkle. 

A great many novelties in which nuggets are used can be ob- 
tained here. Many show windows have been fitted again and 
again with samples of dust and nuggets. 



NEWS OF THB LAKE STATES 

VBOM com araciAx. cout>spoin>Bim. 

TnUU aawa and baainaaa and paraonal itama from tlioaa Stataa bordariac 
on tha Lakaa will ba found undar tliia haad. Thasa Stataa incloda Minnaaota, 
Wiaconain, Iowa, Michigan, Indiana, IlUnoia and Ohio. Wa shall walooma any 
itama of ganaial intaraat from oar raadara, which should roach «a not latar 
than Monday morning. 

CHICAGO 

Among the buyers here last week were: 

F. H. Reid, Perry, la.: J. C. Peers, Rockford, 111.; F. Boze- 
hardt, Kirkland, 111.; W. A. Shaddelil, Crown Point. Ind.; An- 
drew Rovelstadt,. Elgin, 111.; O. Bilstead, Cambridge, Wis.; C. E. 
Frederick, Waterloo, la.; W. H. Barker, Sanborn, la.; Fred 
^vjerstied, Pa*toiu 111.; J. H. B. Land, Truesdak, Wis. 

Louis. Mannhtfimer and family returned last week from a six 
months' outing in California. 

S. A. Galpin, president of the New Haven Clock Company, 



visited the new Chicago offices of the company for a few days 
last week. 

Mr. Tice, of the Chicago office of A. G. Schwab, is on a west- 
ern trip. 

Lloyd Milnor, president of Spaulding & Co., is in New* York 
for ten days or a fortnight. 

Max Eflbogen, of Stein & Ellbogen, returned last week from 
his European trip, and is back at his desk. 

Gus Rodenberg, western manager for S. & B. Lederer, in the 
Silversmiths' Building, has gone west on a business trip. 

Moses Goldsmith, of Goldsmith Brothers, refiners and assay- 
ers, is away on a shooting expedition in Kankakee Marsh down 
in Indiana. 

Harry H. De Lass, treasurer of the Chicago and Aurora 
Smelting and Refining Company, with offices at 184 La Salle 
street, was out of town last week. 

The Dennison Manufacturing Company have moved from 
their quarters on Wabash avenue, just north of Washington 
street, to a fine new location at the corner of Madison and Frank- 
lin streets. 

Milton Rodenberg, son of Gus Rodenberg, of S. & B. Lederer, 
who has just spent a week here with his bride, has left town in 
the same charming company, for St. Louis. 

Messrs. Spaulding & Co. have issued an attractive catalogue 
of their "Treasures from Spain" collection. The booklet is 
tastefully printed on rough deckle edged paper, and is resplend- 
ent with a bright yellow cover. 

Plenty of special order work in the way of school badges, 
graduating medals, and class pins, is keeping the fifty men in the 
shop of the Wendell Manufacturing Company more than busy 
these days. 

A. letter bearing the simple address, "J. H. P. & Co., Chicago, 
111.." reached its destination promptly in the office of J. H. Purdy 
& Co. In a city of two million souls this indicates a certain en- 
viable reputation. 

O. Bilstead, of Cambridge, Wis., was in Chicago, last week, 
partly on a buying trip and partly to visit his son, who is at the 
Northwestern University, and will graduate this spring. 

Mr. Charles H. Pixley, of F. A. Hardy & Co., is hard at work 
on a new scale card of his own plan, designed for use in ascer- 
taining the various different measurements of spectacle frames. 
The device is new and seems a veritable "multum in parvo." 

D. Stein, of Newport News, Va., was in town last week. He 
bought a large line of J. H. Purdy & Co., who take much pardon- 
able pride in having so good a customer from the extreme east- 
ern field. Three dealers in the Virginia city deal with this Chi- 
cago material house. 

The Chicago branch of the Seth Thomas Clock Company 
have had an order recently for a Warren chime clock, with three 
bells, from Mr. John Farton, of Oak Park, whose elegant estate 
is one of the show places of that beautiful suburb. The clock is 
to be used for the barn. . ^^,,,. ,,.^ 

C. H. Van Pelt, representing A. Lounsbury & Sop, importers 
of diamonds and makers of fine diamond mountings, at 9, 11 and 
13 Maiden lane. New York, was in the city last week with a full 



Ostby & Barton Company, 

Providcncct R. I., 

have Removed to their New Factory, 
US RICHMOND STREET, Corner Clifford, 

directly opposite their former location. 

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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 12, 1899 



line. Mr. Van Pelt does not touch Chicago very often, most of 
his labors being confined to the eastern field. 

Mr. A- L. Sercomb and wife left town last Wednesday for 
the east. Mr. Sercomb will attend to various business matters in 
the eastern cities and at the headquarters of his company, and 
then sail for Europe on the 19th, on the White Star liner Teu- 
tonic. He will be away until the fall trade begins. 

G. E. Throop, a gentleman from New York new to the jew- 
elry ti;ade, has been engaged to occupy a managerial position 
with Spaulding & Co. He will assist Mr. Milnor, president of 
the house* in the multiplicity of duties which devolve upon him 
— a position, in general, similar to that formerly occupied by Mr. 
Foreman. Mr. Throop has^ already taken hold. 

It is said that William F. Juergens, treasurer of the Juergens 
& Andersen Company, will be married soon after the return of 
William Andersen, of the same house, from his six weeks* honey- 
moon in California, which will be along the middle or latter part 
of this month. Mr. Juergens* bride will be a Miss Heissler, a 
daughter of the president of the Heissler & Junge Company, the 
well-known bakers. 

It is thought best by those selecting quarters for the horologi- 
cal exhibition in October to give up the idea of getting, for the 
purpose, a room in the Masonic Temple. Many more people will 
attend, it is urged, if the exhibition is held in some vacant store, 
so that it may be on the ground floor, and passers-by may be at- 
tracted, as well as those particularly interested. The exact loca- 
tion cannot, therefore, be determined now, but will have to be 
decided upon some time in September. 

The Seth Thomas Clock Company have been awarded the 
contract for a tower clock to adorn thfe court house at Prince- 
ton, Ind. The order came through Herman Vollmer, a local 
jeweler, and the contract price was $878.20. The clock company 
are to keep the clock in repair and wind it for a period of one 
year. They guarantee it for five years. 

Last Wednesday was held the first meeting of the Chicago 
Jewelers' Association, in the new assembly room on the sixth 
floor of the Columbus Memorial Building. The new quarters 
are located directly below the old room on the second floor, and 
though the decorations and woodwork are not yet in order, they 
promise to be an attractive and entirely adequate home for the 
association. The chief business before the meeting was in con- 
nection with the proposed city ordinance aim'eH at buyers of old 
gold and silver. A committee composed of A. L. Sercomb, of the 
Meriden Britannia Company, M. A. Mead, of M. S. Mead & 
Co., and J. K. Caldwell, of the Rogers & Hamilton Company, 
were appointed to take the proper steps in opposition to the pass- 
age of the measure, and J. H. Purdy was appointed a committee 
of one to watch its development and treatment in the hands of the 
sub-committee of the License Committee of the City Council, in 
whose hands, largely, the fate of the matter lies. 

Messrs. Stevens, Wallace & Co. last wc'^k finished a beautiful 
piete of work whic^ .^Vas presented to Governor Roosevelt by the 
Hapiilton Club of this city, on the occasion of his acceptance of 
their invitation to respond to the toast, "The Strenuous Life,*' at 
the Appomattox Day banquet given at the Auditorium, last Mon- 
day. Miss Vibette Windett, 4332 Berkeley avenue, painter of 
miniature portraits on ivory, did a remarkably clever miniature 
of the famous rough rider. This, framed simply in gold, forms 
the sole decoration for the cover of a volume containing Kip- 
ling's famous poem, "The White Man's Burden." The book is 
handsomely bound in pig-skin in the natural color, with beautiful 
watered-silk cover linings. The execution of the poem itself is 
another product of Miss Windett's art, each stanza in skillful 
decorative lettering and approp-! I'c n . .-. : h1 sketches, occupy- 
ing a smgle page. The volume !> . rt;. ly 1 unique testimonial: 
with its rich material and exqui .tc art. it i one that can scarcely 
fail to be highly prized by Gov« rnor Roosevelt. 

President George H. Wilco--, ot ihc M riden Britannia Com- 
pany, and S. L. Barbour, of tht Itaih^ ir silver Company, ^^^e 
been in this city recently in t. - int.r .tb of the IntA-^rtational 
Silver Company. A certain .inir ;;. imounting [^oSt to 
anxiety, is felt among some nf »; .. .xeoutive offieA^'^^w in 

t!ie allied cofh3 /^ 



charge of the various local branr' 



cofla. 



as to 



whether a combination of western offices is to be inaugurated 
and, if so, just how far reaching it will be. The outcome of the 
visit to this city of the International Silver Company's oflftcers 
is therefore watched with much interest. The individual con- 
cerns forming the International Silver Company which have of- 
fices in this city are as follows: 

Meriden Britannia Company, Simpson, Hall, Miller & Com- 
pany, Rogers & Hamilton Company, Barbour Silver Company, 
Holmes & Edwards Silver Company, William Rogers, Meriden 
Silver Plate Company, Manhattan Silver Plate Company, Mid- 
dletown Plate Company and the Derby Silver Plate Company. 



DETROIT 

H. Poile, for twelve years jeweler in Chatham, Ont., sold 
out recently and is now completing arrangements to go in busi- 
ness on Woodward avenue, near the Boulevard. 

A lively fire on the morning of the 2d inst. threatened for a 
while to destroy the building at the corner of Woodward avenue 
and Larned street, which is occupied partly by three wholesale 
jewelers, Hinz & Shuttleworth, F. A. Drexel and J. S. Reno. 
The fourth story was badly burned, but none of the jewelers on 
the lower floors suflfered any material damage. 

William Hamburg, of Wright, Kay & Co.'s, is at Narragan- 
sett Pier. 

John Kay, of Wright, Kay & Co., leaves, next week, for a 
business trip to Europe. 

Stephen L. Carter, the young man who was arrested here 
last week while attempting to pass a bogus check on Wright 
Kay & Co., was arraigned in the police court last Tuesday, and 
waived examination to the Recorder's Court. His bail was fixed 
at $5,000, and in default he was sent back to the county jail to 
await trial. 

Dr. C. O. Jenison, oculist at Greenville, Mich., was a visitor 
at the Johnson Optical Co.'s rooms this week. 



CINCINNATI 

The Oskamp estate squabble has come up in the courts again 
and has been argued before the higher court while a decision is 
still anticipated from the Probate Court. 

The news that the pottery trust may not go through was re- 
ceived here in Cincinnati with but little surprise. This was no 
doubt due to the fact that the suit by the Bell Pottery Company 
of Akron against the promoters and partners of the combination 
was filed here, and the combination gained a name of not being 
a scheme tiiat would pull through. The deal or laxrk of a deal 
will affect two Cincinnati concerns, the George Scott's Sons Pot- 
tery and the Brockman Pottery. 

The arrest of Abe Rothschild, neai^ Vincennes, Ind., this week, 
created something of a sensation in Cincinnati. Rothschild was 
a Cincinnati man and has swindled a large number of jewelers 
all over the country. He was caught in trying to work a game 
on the John Shillito Company, and after being arrested with 
a confederate, the two managed to get away from a deputy- 
marshall Rothschild is the son of M. Roth^hild, who was 
formerly a well-known jeweler on Fifth street, between Plum 
and Central avenue. 



CANADIAN NEWS. 



FROM OUR SPSCIAL CORRBSPONOBMTt. 



TORONTO 

J. J. Wallis, je*weler, formerly of Tottenham, Ont, has opened 
up a neat jewelry store in Selkirk, Ont. 

Lome Bucker is opening up a jewelry store in Glen Allan. 
Ont. 

Ambrose Kent, jeweler, Toronto, sailed from New York on 
the Marquette, Saturday morning, April 8, for London. He is 
accompanied by Mrs. Kent. Pleasure and business will occupy 
his time while away. 

The Fullon Jewel Manufacturing Company, Ltd., have opened 
up in more commodious quarters at 40 Colborne street, Toronto. 
The new firm is composed of R. H. Pratt, president; A. R. 
Dewdney, vice-president; A. H. Dewdney, secretary-treasurer; 
E. W. Gil more, manager, manufacturers and importers of rings, 
jewelry, silver novelties, purses, ebony goods, etc- 



V> 



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April 12, 1890 



tH£ JtWtLtkS kfeVIfeW 



473 



Last week a grand reception was given to Co. I, Fifth Mass- 
achusetts Regiment of Volunteers, so-callled the jewelry com- 
pany, on its return from Camp Wetherell, Greenville, S. C, after 
nine months' service in Uncle Sam's service. A hearty greet- 
ing was given them with a big street parade, speeches and a ban- 
quet. The reception committee who had charge of all the ar- 
rangements had among others Major Everett S. Horton and 
Herbert A. Clark, of Horton, Angell & Compsmy; Sidney O. 
Bigney, of S. O. Bigney & Co., Providence, and David E. Make- 
peace. 

Theron I. Smith, of T. I. Smith & Co., and wife, have returne<l 
from a two months' visit in Florida. 

Alton H. Riley, son of WiHiam H. Riley, and foreman of the 
factory of Riley, French & HeflFron; Fred J. Mills, of Sommer & 
Mills Company, and Elton B. Fisher, foreman for£. I. Frajiklin 
& Co., have been elected officers of the Garrison Club, the most 
exclusive club in North Attleboro. 

Ira Barrows, of the New York office ^ H. F. Barrows & Co., 
has been visiting in town during the past few days. 

State Factory Inspector Tierney, of Fall River, inspected the 
jewelry factories of North Attleboro last Thursday. In one of 
them he found two boys who were working without the necessary 
certificate. 

Elton I. Franklin, of E. I. Franklin & Co., has returned from 
his extended Southern trip with Mrs. Franklin. 

Everett S. Horton, of Horton, Angell & Co., and Louis J. 
Lamb, of C. H. Allen & Co., have been elected trustees of the 
Attleboro Public Library. 

William Rounsville, of the firm of C. A. Marsh & Co., has 
gone to Chicago to attend the graduation of his brother from th^ 
Chicago Dental College. 

H. F. Barrows & Co.'s factory, which has been shut down dur- 
ing the past week to take an account of stock, has started up 
again. 

Leo A. Heilborn, of the Codding & Heilborn Company, has 
been elected chairman of the First Universalist Church. 

John M. Fisher, of J. M. Fisher & Co., of this town, was one 
of the prominent speakers at the Methodist conference in Prov- 
incetown last week. 

James E. Blake, of the James E. Blake Company, has pur- 
chased a large lot of land on Union street, with the intention, it 
is said, of erecting a large jewelry factory for S. M. Einstein & Co. 

J. F. Sturdy's Sons are erecting a large addition to their al- 
ready large factory at Attleboro Fails. The addition is to be 100 
feet in length. 

A. H. Bliss & Co. have recently taken the entire second floor 
of the Draper Building for their O'wn use, and are having a large 
vault erected in it. The chang^e was made necessary by the large 
and increasing business which the firm 'has built up. 

Rumors have been strong in North Attleboro during the past 
week that an out of town concern was thinking of building a 
factory in town. 



The following jewelers and manufacturers were in the city 
last week: Stephen O. Thuran, of Pittsburg, Pa.; James L. 
Stockbridge, Columbus, O.; A. R. Wilmoth, jeweler, of Chi- 
cago, 111.; Chas. E. Fernald, of Topeka, Kan. 

Benjamin R. Bickford, formerly a repairer, at Middleboro, 
Mass., entered the employ of the American Waltham Watch 
Company last week. 

Edward C. Batchelder, manufacturer of watch materials, at 
Birmingham, England, returned home last week after a short 
visit to this city. 

A public reception and banquet was tendered Company F, 
Fifth Regiment, Massachusetts Volunteers, last Saturday. A 
large number of prominent military officers and civilians at- 
tended. They gave the watchmakers' company a rousing welcome 
home. 



WALTHAM 

Treasurer L. C. Lane, of the American Waltham Watch Com- 
pany Relief Association, makes the following report for the 
month of March, 1899: Total amount received, $289.25; paid out, 
$288; as compared with $251.50 and $214 for corresponding period 
last year. 

The factories in this city are all running to their fullest ca- 
pacity. 

F. W. Derbyshire, in the employ of the American Watch Tool 
Company, of this city for the past twenty-three years, has entered 
the employ of Pratt & Whitney, of Hartford, Conn. 

At the recent annual meeting of the American Waltham Watch 
Company the office of vice-president was created and Francis 
Appleton elected to the position. All the others officers were re- 
elected. 

The American Waltham Watch Company closed last Mon- 
day afternoon until 3 P. M. to welcome the return of Company F. 

The factory of the Columbia Watch Company and all jewelry 
stores were closed during the passing of the funeral procession 
oi Private James Dermody in this city last Tuesday afternoon. 



SOUTHERN AND WESTERN NEWS 

VKOM OUK 8PSCIAI. CORRBSPONDBim. 

An Hm B0Wt with inteioftiiic «nA niefiil trade notM will be sfreB 1b 
these colimmt weekly. Thii headlnf oorert an the States Bastward of and 
adjoinlnf the Rocky Moimtalns and an the Southern and GvU States. We 
Shan heaitUy welcome any notes from those of our readers who can send ns 
prompt Information of any trade news of general Interest. Such notes should 
reach as not later than Monday morning. 

8T. LX>U1S 

H. L. Beard, cashier of the E. Jarrard Jewelry Co., spent a 
few days in Eureka Springs, Ark., last week. 

S. L. Barbour, of the Barbour Silver Co., spent a few days in 
the city last week. 

S. Ruby, who is now occupying the ground floor at 818 
Franklin avenue, is making preparations to occupy the entire 
three-story building at that number. 

The R. Loewenstein Jewelry Co., on North Seventh street, 
are decorating their place in a grand style with a new coat of 
paint and paper. 

H. C. Graves returned from a visit to Denver, Col. 

Nelson Hegnam, of the Eisentadt Jewelry Co., just returned 
from an extensive trip through Illinois and Iowa. 

W. A. Gill left with his family for a visit to Hot Springs. 

E. M. Elgas has taken quarters with the W. A. Gill Jewelry 
Co., where he is conducting the optical business. 

The Jackson School was presented with a fine silver goblet 
by H. Mauch on occasion of the laying of the corner stone of its 
new building. 

The Retail Jewelers* Association of Missouri held their meet- 
ing Wednesday evening, April 5th. 

Wm. Wiedlich leaves on an extensive business trip this week 
to Iowa, the West and the Southwest. 

Joseph Gibbs, expert watch repairer, has taken bench room 
with the A. R. Brooks Optical Supply Co. 



MINNBAPOUS 

George Quinti, of Madison, Minn., has sold his ^ore to Chas. 
Odell, of Appleton, Minn. 

Mrs. A. E. Paegle has bought the stock from the trustee for 
A. E. Paegle, assigned, for $2,500. Mr. Paegle is now conduct- 
ing an auction sale at 507 Nicolet avenue, before moving, about 
April lotb. 

A. G. Foogman, of Hillsboro, N. D., was in Mimieapolis a 
few days before going to Hillsboro. Mr. Foogman returned re- 
cently from Chicago, where he took a course in optics at the 
McCormick Optical College. 

George Johtarigen, with the Minneapolis Jewelry Manufac- 
turing Company, crushed one of his fingers last Wednesday, 
while operating the drop press. 

F. O. Fiske, with F. O. Fiske & Bro., has gone to Omro, 
Wis., to his old home, to settle the estate of his father, deceased. 
Mr. Fiske intends to go to Chicago before returning to Minne- 
apolis. 

Mr. W. E. White has resigned his position as watchmaker 
for B. Leber. 

H. E. Bergh, with the Equitable Manufacturing Company, 
came from Chicago, and is stopping for a few days in Minne- 
apolis with friends before going to Montana. , . 



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tHE jEWfeLERS REVIEW 



April 12, i^ 



Herman Fredell, with Fredell Bros., Center City, Minn., who 
has been sick for some time with la grippe, is now able to 
resume business. 

iWklHani Plackner of Arlington, Minn., will move into new 
and more commodious quarters about April 15th. 

H. GefTen has moved from 25 Nicolet avenue to 607 South 
Washington. Mr. GefTen has added a cigar and confectionery 
department to his store. 

Mr. W. R. Cooper, with S. H. Clausin & Co., has returned 
from a short western trip. Mr. Cooper reports business good. 



KANSAS CITY 

Rhodes Brothers, the manufacturing opticians and photo- 
graph supply house, have announced that they will move on May 
ist from their old location, 919 Walnut street, to loii Walnut 
street. The new qu^ters will be made very attractive, and the 
firm expects to considc^bly improve their business l)y^the move. 

C. L. Merry, of the C. L. Merry Optical Company, has 
started on a combined business and pleasure trip through Mex- 
ico. He expects to be absent for about a month. 

Leo Hefner, who has charge of the optical department of the 
Jaccard Jewelry Company since the first of the year, has severed 
his connections with that firm, an<i now has charge of the optical 
department of the Emery, Bird, Thayer Dry Goods Company, a 
department store firm of this city. 

A Past Eminent Commander jewel, handsomely set with dia- 
monds, has been presented by the Kansas City Commandery of 
Knights Templar to R. J. Gilbert, the popular manager of the 
Jaccard Jewelry Company. 

W. Calvet, a jeweler, of Washington, Kas., passed through the 
city this week, on his way to Paris, France. 

D. C. Jaccard has been visiting relatives in this city during the 
past week. He is one of the owners of the Jaccard Jewelry Com- 
pany, but makes his home in St. Louis. 

S. Jensen, recently connected with the Jensen Optical Com 
pany, o^ this city, has accepted a position with the Columbian 
Optical Cornpany. 

Jacob Perlin has purchased the fixtures of the jewelry store of 
F. R. Stearns, who came here from California a few months ago 
and opened up on West Ninth street. Mr. Perlin will occupy the 
sarne location, but will have a different stock of goods. 

L. H. Ludwig, the manager of the matf -^1 diepartment of J. A. 
Norton & Son, left the first pairt of the /eek for a visit to Chi- 
cago, where he will combine business with pleasure for about a 
week. 

The following buyers called on the jobbers within the past 
week: William Woolard, dlathe, Kas.; W. Qiiyet, Washington, 
Kas.; B. R. Smithers, Cameron, Mo., and L iller, Ricftmond, 
Mo. 

LOUISVILLB.^ 

Ben Rodgers, of Rodgers & Pottinger, has returned from a 
4, .^rip to the SfiUth /and Cuba, ,/ . , 

J. H. Callaway, of Sellersburg, Ind., was in Louisville, last 
week, looking over plans and consulting contractors with a view 
to building a handsome new store. 

The Wiedekind Optical Company, of Louisville, was recently 
made the victim of a bogus check game by a well appearing pro- 
fessional swindler. 

William Kendrrck's Sons are looking for a clever pocket- 
book thief who made off with a pocketbook left on their counter 
by a lady customer. 

Mr. George Kendrick has removed from Fifth street to his 
handsome new house in St. James Court. 



NEW ORLEANS. 

C. W. Cohen, one of the most poi. '.>r •; 
ard Krower, was married last week to M:s 

Leo Frank, one of the leading jeweler; < 
in the city last week buying a big bi 

Hill's closing out auction sale i^ .-:■ I i' 
as if it will be continued indefinitely. 

M. Scooler is in receipt of a < ' 
thanking him for some handsome y. c 
him. 



iveling men of Leon- 
id. Gernsbacher. 
»i Jeanerette, La., was 



h. 



progress, af^^ ^^°^^ 
^rom ^^^ Crane, 



hasJusj^^^Of jied for 



NEWS OF THE TRAVELING MEN 

Under this lioad w glTo from wetk to wMk the morementt tl tbe tmreUac 
repreoentatiTM of the trade. We ituOl welM^ne aay Mtee theyjq^ tead m 
from time to time of mattere of Intereet. ^ ,> , « .^^ ., ^.^ 

Toronto.— Mr. David H. Rajrmond, Oueen City; Silver Co*. CiDoiniiati 
Oikio ; Mr. Edwia Nordlin^er. Nordlinffer & Mamlurlc, 24 John St., New York : 
Mr. R. Hiroh. Hirch Bros., fancy leather froods, 112 Fore 8t.« London. K. C: 
Mr. A. R. Harmon, of the American Waltham Watch Co. 

St. Lonle.— Saleemen in the city : John A. Abel, David Kaiser A Co., New 
York ; Henry Osborne, R. Wallace & Sons Manofactariiur Co.. WalUmrford. 
Conn.; F. F. Knapp. The Ames-Bonner Co., Toledo, Ohio; Wm. Roseaberxer, 
A. Wailach & Co.. New York ; W. H. Bryant. J. G. Hawkee & Co , Coming. 
New York ; L. C. Howard, Dominlck A Hoff, New York ; E. H H. Smith. T'^e 
J. D. Beriren Co., New York ; H. A. Bliss, Krementz A Co., Newark. N. J.; R H. 
Stevenson. E. Q. Webster & Son, Brooklyn, N. Y.; G. W. Bimbaum, Enipelfried. 
Braun & Weidman. New York : L. W. Frohlichsteln, Hy. Frohlich A Co., New 
York ; Mr. Roehr, Bassett Jewelry Co., Providence, R. I. 

The Attleboroe.— Amonff the salesmen that started for the west last week 
were: Robert Bmwn for George H. Herrick & Co.; Charles Eden for S. M. 
Einstein & Co.; Robert W. Myers for the Wendell Manafacturiof Co., Chicago; 
Faulden D. White for Albert Bashee & Co.; Frank Barden for Fontneaa ± 
Cammlngrs; R. John Marsh for C. A. Marsh A Co.; G. H. Howard for Mason, 
Howard A Co. 

Beaton.— AmonfT the traveling? men who visited Boston darinc the past 
week were the foUowimc named : H. E. Ide, H. C. Hardy A Co.; Fred Claik- 
son, Albert Lorsch A Co.; Otto H. Wolff, E. A. Neresheimer A Co.; Herman 
Freese, F. W. Lewis A Co.; Leverett F. Lewis. Morris Praeger A Co.; Charles 
L. Power. Ludtke A Power; W. R. Cattelle, Henry Oppenneimer A Co.: Mr. 
Parker, Fisher, Whltmarsh A Co.; Mr. Peck, Waite, Thresher A Co.; Jack 
Tweedy, Cheever, Tweedy A Co.; Mr. Trafton, Weightman, Hoogh A Co. 

Kaneas City.— The following traveling saleemen have been oalUng on the 
trade daring the past week : E. W. Braddon, with John W. Reddali A. Co.. 
Newark ; H. C. Barker, with Manderville, Carrow A Crane, Newark ; Fred 
Kaufman, New York ; Mr. Roehr. of the Bassett Jewelry Company, Prori- 
dence; A. H. Clinger, with T. G. Hawkes A Co.. Coming, N. Y.; wm. Leech, 
with Ztrath A Moore, Newark ; Hogh E. Kinsr. with Fessenden A Co., Provi- 
dence; Fred J. Foster, with Unger Bros., Newark; Herbert W. Van Hontee, 
with C. Sidney Smith. New York ; J. J. Heiser, with H. C. Hardy A Co.. New 
York ; George L. Paine, with E. I. Franklin A Co., North Atileboro ; W. A. 
Moore, with the F. W. Gesswein Company, New York ; W. L. Maaon, with 
Hayden W. Wheeler A Co.; S. A. Goldsmith, of Adolph Goldsmith A Son. New 
York ; R. Guntzbarger, Brooklyn. 

Philadelphia.- Among the travelers in town last week were: C. B. 
Charchill, of the New England Company ; E. P. Ledas. of Newark. N. J.; 
L. C. Reisner, of Lancaster ; R. Sweet, of R. L. Simmons Co., Attleboro. and 
W. T. Jones of Attleboro. 



CUSTOBilS 

Under this bead we give weekly a reenine of the shlpmentt and neaipta 
relatmg to the trades covered hy this paper, at the Port of Hew York, aa wi^ 
at the Hational Monthly Report, oontaining ttatiatica of the Importa and ex- 
ports. We also cover reappraliements of imports and the dedaiona of the Traaa- 
ory Department reUttng to imported goods. 

RBAPPRAISBMBNT8 OP MBRCHANMSB. 

The following are among the reappraisements of merchandise 

made by the Board 0/ General Appraisers, March 31st: 

5025 O. P., &058 O. P., Cliicago.— Deooratcd earthcnwark, from Edgre. Mal- 
kln A Co., Bumiem, December 8 and 21, 1808. Flo. Blue Summertlne, entered 
at discounts 55 per cent and 10 per cent, advanced to discounts 65 per cent, 

5 per cent, and 5 per cent. Flo. Blue Summertine, illuminated F. Gilt, entered 
at disoounts 40 per cent, and 10 per cent, advanced to dlscouuta 40 per cent, 

6 per cent, and 5 per cent. 

4961 O. P., 4995/6 O. P., 5056 O. P., Cbfcaffo.— Dscoratbd Barthknwarb. 
from T. A R. Boote, Limited, B^rslem, October 18 to December «, 18fa 
laurel, entered at disoounts Sii}4 pet cent, 5 per cent, and 5 per cent, advanced 
to disoounts 30 per cent, 5 per cent, and'5 ^r cent. 

5088 O. P., Baltimore.— Earthbnwark, from Geo Jonee A Sons, Stoke-oh- 
Trent, Februarv 27, 1899. Semlporcelaine. entered at 60 per cent, -5 per ceot 
and 5 per cent discounts ; no advance. 

20403.— Cut olasbwarb. from T. Seidl A Co.. Gabions, December St. 1896. 
Drops, 185/3% entered at 2.05, advanced to 2.30 florins per 100. Disconnt 8 per 
cent cash, add packing in paper .10 florin per 100 and cases at 4 florins each. 



DECISION ON TOY WATCHES 

Before the U. S. General Appraisers at New Yoric, March 81, 1899. In the 
matter of the protest of John Wanamaker, af^ainst the decision of the collector 
of customs at Philadelphia, Pa. 

The goods in question consist of— 

Articles in the form, and havim? their exterior appearance, of small open- 
face stem-windinf? watches, but are without works other than such as are 
necessary for the purpose of turnimr the hands with the stem Some are in 
imitation of gold and others of oxidized silver and have either an imitation 
gold vest or fob chain, with charm attached, or a chatelaine or brooch attaofa* 
ment with which they are to be worn upon the garment. Although they are 
probaWy intended to be worn by children, they are articles of personal adoni- 
ment. belonging to the general clflis commonly known as Jewelry, and are n^t 
tojrs designed as children's playthings. 

The articles covered by our first finding were assessed for duty at 60 per 
cent ad valorem under the provisions of paragraph 484, act of July S4, 1887. and 
those covered by our second finding at 45 per cent ad valorem under the pro- 
visions of paragraph 193 of said act. The protestant claims that all are anU- 
able at 35 per cent ad valorem as t.>ys under paragraph 418 of said act. 

The protest is overruled and the assessment of duty affirmed. 

STERLING SILVER CUTLERY 

Under date of March 30, the Treasury department notified the Collector 
of customs at New York, that on the exportation of sterling-silver cutlery and 
safety razors, manufactured by Silbersteln. Ueoht A Co., of New York City, 
the skeletons and Mades of which are imported, and the handles of which are 
of domestic manufacture, a drawback will be allowed equal in amount of the 
duty paid on the imported material so used, less 1 per cent on suoh duty. 

Tne entry under which the merchandise is to be inspected and laden moat 
show the marks and numbers of the shipping cases and the oontentaof eaiA 
case, describing specifically the imported materials used in the mannfaotnie 
of the exported articles, by name, mark, number, and value, as they are de- 
scribed on the Import invoice. 



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April 12, 1S99 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



4>5 



IMPROVEBSENTS^ NEW GOODS ANP PATENTS 
UMtr tkU liMd win appear detcilpttoiit of «n saw productioiit In KadiiB- 
eiy, Twdt, M a nufag Uiwi' Deeifnt and Patontt, donntftlb and loraign, lelatinc 
to the ttrnde; Thoae interested are reqneeted to forward ns for pnbUcatioa, 
free of oharce, fan deeeriptUme of artidee, with pkotograpki or drawin<e 
whenerer poiiiUe. 

NEW GOODS 

For Cleaning and Polishing Lenses. — "Lentilene" is a 
preparation which has just been introduced to the trade by the 
Spencer Optical Company, of 15 Maiden Lane. It is a secret 
liquid preparation taken from the formula employed by German 
optica] manufacturers in giving the high polish and clear surface 
to their world-famous lenses. Its introduction to opticians in 
this country has already met with appreciation, the claim of its 
makers being that it will immediately restore lenses to their 
original condition of brilliancy and smoothness. 



ELASTIC CHAIN-UNKS 

BT BMMETT P. BUNYBA 

There have been a great number of patents granted in past 
years for elastic chain links, and while many of these links have 
been used in large chains for different purposes the watchchain 
class has come in for its share of patents in this line of invention. 
There seems to have been, at on^ time at least, a desire to pro- 
duce an attractive chain which would have the quality of elas- 
ticity within certain limits in order that in case the vest chain got 
entangled with any article it would "give" to some extent before 
the links would part. With this end in view the inventors have 
produced quite a number of fairly good structures designed to 
perform the desired functions. 

In 1883 Wm. J. Johnson, of Columbus, Miss., secured a 
patent for an elastic chain link of quite novel structure. The de- 
vice is shown in the following illustration: 




llllllilinTnT 



A spiral spring is formed of sprinjg wire, which may be of 
precious metal or plated as desired. At the terminal ends of the 
spiral the wire is bent parallel with the spring upon the outside, 
and the end is extended thence inside the spring and passes to the 
opposite end of the same. Both terminal ends of the wire are 
thus formed and bent. It will be seen by this construction that 
when the two ends of the wire gfe pulled the spring will com- 
press to a limited extent and will then stop, since the spiral coils 
bear against each other to limit the further compression of the 
spring. Of course it would become necessary in a spring link 
of this character to have some limit to its expansibility, and the 
way that this inventor has adopted seems to be a very novel and 
practicable one. The ornamental feature of such a chain may not 
be as desirable as 'some, but such a spring could be inclosed 
within an ornamental shell if desired. 

Another spring link was patented to Henry Kelly, of Attle- 
boro Falls, Mass., in 1886, an illustration of which follows 
and is reproduced from the inventor's original drawing: 




This invention consists of a hollow barrel and a spiral spring 
within the barrel, the terminals of the spring being secured to the 



end spheres. In order to limit the extension of this spring two 
rods, which are secured at their outer ends within the spheres, 
are hooked at their inner ends so as to limit the expansibility of 
the spring beyond the points where the hooks join. In its normal 
condition the link has the appearance of an ordinary plain or 
polygonal barrel with spheres or bulbs at its ends. When ex- 
tended the spheres are drawn out at some distance from the ends 
of the barrel. 

In 1889 a patent was granted to Charles Redwood, of Denison 
City, Texas, for the device shown in the following illustration: 




This chain is made up of links of substantially horseshoe 
shape, and each link is connected to its companion by loops 
formed therein at its ends and passing around the next link 
toward the closed portion thereof. The wire forming the links 
is resilient, and the result is that when tension is placed upon the 
spring the arms of each link are brought together in the condition 
shown in the bottom view of the above figure. 

Such a chain as this may not be capable of use in many places, 
but whether it would be desirable as a watchchain or not the fact 
still remains that the invention is unique and extremely in- 
genious. For certain classes of jewelry, perhaps, like bracelets, 
it would seem that such chains might be made particularly at- 
tractive and quite desirable, because they could be made to yield 
sufficiently to pass over the hand and would then contract to fit 
the wrist. 

NBW PATENTS GRANTED 

Compiled weekly by Ewing, Whitman & Ewing, patent law- 
yers, 41 Wall street. Copies of patents under this head can be 
had from the Patent Office, postage free, at 5 cents per copy. 

628,480. Reflector for use in Photochromo^ copes, eto. Frederick B. Ives, 
Philadelphia, Pa. Fil*d March 1, 1898. Serial No. 678.908. (Modd.) 

Claim.— 1. The comi Ination of a transpai^Dt mirror desifrned to optically 
blend one ima^e neen by' ^flection with another ima^e seen by transmiaalon, 
with a pressure device b^.-irinc locally upon said mirror and serrinff to alter 
the flfTure of its reflectinfr-sarfaoe so as to cause accurate superposition of the 
images. 




6^,544. Razor. Bffon L. 8chmitz« New York, N. T. ivhe 1. 1896. Serial 
No. 688.810. (No model.) 



62S.856. Fountain Pen. George 8. Parker. Janesrille, Wis. Filed March 7. 
1898. Serial No. 078.967. (No model). 



DeslQN3 




80,464. 
Niagara Falls, N. Y 
7 years. 



Handle for Spoons. Forks or similar articles. 
Filed Feb. 81. 1890. - ■ - " — 



William A. Jameeon. 
Serial No. 706,800. Term of patent 



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476 



tH£ JEWELERS kfeVlt^W 



April 12, iflp^ 



Page 

At the Hotels 471 

Belleek Manufacture in America 400 

BuaiseMCtaanses. 408 

BuBineM Troubles 467 

Canadian Ne^8 470 

Toronto 470 

Ceramics 4«0 

Ceramics Notes 4«0 

Customs 474 

Decision on Toy Watches 474 

Reappraisement of Merchandise 474 

Sterling Silver Cutlery 474 

Deedsand Mortgages 4^8 

Diamonds and Other Preciotis Stones 467 

Editorial 456 

Steady Increase in Jewelry Trade 465 

The Retail Merchant of 1900 466 

Here and There 467 

Horological 478 

Report on Watch A Clock Making at Paris 478 

The Waltham Horological School 480 

Lord Grimthorpe on the Pin- Wheel Bs- 

capement..... 481 

M. Grosman on the Fusee 481 

The 1890 Clock and W atch Dial 488 

Human Polishing Pads ^ 464 

Improvements, New Goods and Patents 475 

Designs 4^5 

Elastic Chain Links 476 

New Patenu Granted 475 

Manufacturing Jewelers' Salesmen's Annual 

Meeting 471 

Middle Atlantic SUtes 469 

New York Notes 469 

PbfladelphU Notes 466 

PitUburg Notes 466 

TrentonNotes 465 

New Business Ventures 468 

New England News 478 

Boston Notes 472 

Providence Notes 472 

The Attleboros 472 

WalthamNotes 478 

News of the Lake SUtes 469 

Cincinnati Notea 470 

Columbus Notes 470 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 

Page 

Chicago Notes 469 

DetroitNoies 470 

News of the Traveling Men 474 

Noterman, Joseph 458 

Optics and Opticians 456 

Opticians'^Titles 466 

Working Distances in Skiascopy 4' 7 

Correct and Incorrect Skiascopia 458 

Optical Queries and Answers 459 

Optical Notes 460 

Pacific and Rocky Mountain News 4l9 

Seattle Notes 469 

Queries and Trade Notes 463 

bouthem and Western News 478 

Kansas City Notes 474 

Louisville Notes 474 

Minneapolis Notes 478 

New Orleans Notes . 476 

St. Louis Notes 478 

Suggestions on Foreign Trade 477 

J ewel I y in Guatemala 477 



INDEX TO ADVERTISERS 



Page. 



Anderson Hotel 467 

Amstein Bros A Co 484 

Baccarat Glassware 461 

Barthman, Wm 484 

Bergen J. D * Co 461 

Belais, H. A E. 488 

Bowden, J. B 454 

Bowman, E. P., Technical School 482 

Brown.D V 456 

Bryant, M.B.& Co 454 

Bumham. R 467 

Chester Billings A Son .... 464 

Clewer, Henry O 484 

Cook, Edward N 488 

Costigan, D. W. & Co 467 



Davison Bros. 
Druiff, S. A S. 

Eaton A Glover 

Eisler & Laubheim. . 
Eliassof Bros. A Co. . 



461 
459 
459 
459 
488 



Fahys Case# 480 



PAGB 

Hamilton Watch Co...... 481 

Hedges. W. S. A Co. 458 

Hlrsch.L. 484 

Hirschberg, A.S 4« 

Hraba,L. H 477 

Kahn,L A M.,* Co 484 

Kirstein,B. Sons Company 456 

Kohn. AloUftCo 488 

Kramer, H.S 480 

LelongABro 4»« 

LewisACo 454 

Lum, W.H 484 

Maiiiet, C. G. ft Co 484 

Mc Cormick Optical College 466 

Mercantile National Bank 46S 

Mount A Woodhull 46S 

Munn A Co 477 

Murine Co 4&» 

New England Watch Co 479 

Northern Illinois College 460 

Oppenheimer Bros. A Veith 484 

OstbyftBarton 469 

Owens. J. B , Pottery Co 461 

Passmore, Edwin 488 

Philadelphia Commercial Museum. The 477 

Pouyat,J 461 

Reichhelm, E. P. A Co 477 

Rosenbauro ft Adler 456 

Schneider, E 484 

Schwartz, J. W 482 

Soutbbridge Optical Company 456 

Special Notices. 476 

Spencer Optical Co 484 

Spindler, M ft Co. 4Hi 

SternBros 466 

Straus, L. ft Sons 461 

Sumner-Grimes Co 477 

Tannenbaum, L 477 

Toric Optical Company 459 

Valfer,S. ftCo 488 

Victoria Hotel 488 

Wilcoxson.G. F 4tt 

Willson, H. B ftCo 4*^^4 

Wood. C. F.ACo 484 

Worrell ft Fahey 469 

Zeller. Wolf ft Bro 481 



80.465. FingerRlng. Joseph H. Fink, New York, N. Y. Filed Feb. 17 
1890. Serial No. 70b Jtm. Term of patent 7 years. 




^ 



80,456. Eyeglass Case. John Casey and Murray S. Chlsm, Philadelphia, Pa. 
Filed Feb. 14, 1899. Serial No. 706, 1«4. Term of patent 7 years. 



TRADE MARK. 



88;666. Watches. American Waltham Watch Co., Waltbsm and Boston 
FUed Dec. 7, 1808. 

820,828. Glass-Molding Machine. Henry Bastow, Indiana, Pa. 
Filed Jan. 4, 1898. Serial No. 665,519. (No model.) 

Claim.— 1. The combination of a turuiuK table, a pin standing 
rigidly thereon, mold-sections pivoted on said pin, a lever pivoted to 
one of said mold-sections, a retractile spring connecting the lever and 
the other mold-section, and a second pin carried by a part separate 
from the table and adapted to be engaged by the lever. 

620,823. Graphophone. Inocenelo Andlon, New York, N. Y. Filed 
Jan. 3, 1898. Serial No. 665,300. (No model.) 

Claim.— 1. A phonograph recorder or reproducer, comprising 
an exterior shell, a diaphragm-holder of smaller diameter than the 
shell located within the shell and spaced therefrom peripheral iv so 
as to form an annular chamber between the shell and the holder, 
and two spaced diaphragms in the holder, the latter being apertured 
peripherally between the diaphragms so that the chamber between 
the diaphragnra communicates with that between the shell and the 
diaphragm-holder. 

62i),693. Apparatus for Finishing Glassware. David E. Carle &nd 
Robert W. I:iuze, Jeancette, Pa., assignors to McKee ft Brothers, 
' Filed Jan. 30, 1896. Serial No. 577,402. (No model.) 



In uppuratiis for finishing articles of glassware, the 
combli<atiou of a suitable table having an opening therein. 



I'lttsburg, Pa. 
Claim.— 1. 

^ . „ a vertical 

rotary shaft hnviuK a foimer in line with said opening substantially 
the size of the opening and shape of tbc Intorl^r of the article and 
adapted to enter the same, mechanism fL raining said shaft and 
mechanism for imparting n \eitlcal movi- . • t to ^ald shaft, whereby 
said former Is rnipcti and lc\\pred throuii nid opening, whereby to 
leave the article on the table vlieii the foii- .i u '«'^vered, substantially 
as set forth. 



U20,."'.<vS. OlaHs n irking n'ocliine IrviM.. 
B'lled Feb. 26, 18l»g. Serial No. 671,709. 

620,642. Glass-working Machine. Irv 
Filed April 27, 1898. Serial No. 679,003. 

Claim.- 1. In a glass-working mac<. 
for modeling the exterior of plastic gla& 
for distending said glass with air and . 
distended In sliding contact with said Bll'-ktr-* 
fled. 



• •-bum, Toledo, Ohio. 

• - <• Ul.) 

' '^ * Hbum, Toledo, Ohio. 

, lurallty of slickers 

> «''>.'ibInatlon with means 

uij[Hjr(i:ig the same while ho 

ubstantially as specl- 



80,304. Badge. Louise L. Whlttemo.-', * oM^, Mass. 
28» 1898. Serial No. 700,174. Term of pu ..i 7 years. 



Filed Dec. 




SPECIAL NOTICES 

Matter iBMited under thii heady t5 osBto a Use eM^ 1 

to cente a Hue each issue. FoarormefeiaeertloBe, locentealiiie eeeh ieeae. 

8IT1TATI(ni8 WAVTBD end HBLP WAHTBD advertieeiiieBtt will be l»- 

for one cent a worA. Ho adyertleeiiieiit onder either of theet 1 
be reeetred fee leee than 15 eeati. Caeh 

U aee tUe desertaeiit fiet ef t 



BHUim Ovpomnitid. 



TjrTRITE FULTON & YEAGLEY. ATTORNEYS. DEN- 
^^^ TON, TEXAS, if you have notes or claims against Texas 
parties that you desire settled or compromised. 



SltMtlOM OlMteO. 



^/OUNG MAN with executive ability is open for an engage- 
^ ment with a responsible concern where faithful services and 
reUability assure of a good and permanent position. Experience 
in Solid Gold, Plated and Cheap Jewelry, Road work and duties 
connected with Office, Stock- room and Factory. Recommenda- 
tions from present employer. Address, MATTHEW, care The 
Jewelers Review. 



I)elp OPMted. 



TJTTANTED— Traveling men to carry Ai side line; samples 
^^ compact and valuable. References required. THE NEW 
ENGLAND SELLING CO., Box 715, New Haven. Conn. 



for uu. 



pOR SALE OR TO RENT— A fully equipped factory with 
* modern machinery, electric or steam power, for manufactur- 
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with wire and plate rollers reversible. Drop by power; heavy 
and foot presses ; Re ichhelm blower No. 3 ; dynamo for electro- 
plating, and motor to run shop. Complete polishing and lapping 
o itfit, with exhausters, furnaces, benches for twenty workmen, 
and many other tools, etc.; safe and office fixtures. Will rent 
same at extremely low terms, inclusive electric light, steam heat 
ard power. Location center of the trade. For particulars ad- 
dress CHAS. ALTSCHUL, 41 Maiden Lane, New York City. 



Digitized by LnOOQ iC . 



April 12, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



477 



SUGGESTIONS ON FOREIGN TRADE 

Undtt this kead win anux tmniiiJuiM of an oonsvlar reports and other mat 
ter from ftneien conntriee containinc in a brief form useful infonnatioii relative 
to jewelry, optics, horology and kindred trades. 

JEVELRY IN GUATEMALA 

In reply to inquiries from a trade association in Chicago, Con- 

sul-General Beaupre writes from Guatemala, February 16, 1899: 

During the years of Guatemala'* phenomenal prosperity, tMs was a 
splendid market for precious stones and jewelry of all kinds. The trade 
was centered largely in the two cities of Guatemala and Queaaltenango. The 
enormous profits of the coffee planters created sudden and large wealth, which 
was lavishly expended in luxuries. This ended, however, some two years 
ago, since which time the trade has ebbed, until now it is pi aciically nothing. 
The fall in the price of coffee, the depreciation of silver, and revolutionary 
troubles created a panic and great depression in business followed. With 
exchange at 250 per cent, premium on New York and very high customs 
duties, it is almost useless to attempt to sell jewelry in ihiscountiy at 



present. There were magnificent jewelry stores in this city, and some of 
them remain : but their business is very small. They are endeavoring to sell 
their old stock and import but little. There are no wholesale dealers, the 
merchants importing direct. 

Most of the jewelry comes from Europe ; but, for some reason, the 
Waltham watch holds the market and is used almost exclusively. This is 
probably due to the fact that it has been well advertised and pushed, and the 
peculiarity of this people is that they are averse to change, and prefer to 
Duy that with which they are perfectly familiar. 

The duty on each gold or gold-plated watch is 7 pesos, and on each of 
silver or other material i peso. This is in Guatemalan currency, with ex- 
change fixed at aoo per cent, at present. However, a recent decree pro- 
vides that 30 per cent of the import duty shall be paid in gold or its equiva- 
lent, which adds to the schedule rate given. 

Diamonds can be bought here for lesb than the cost of importing them. 
They were brought in during the flush times in arge quantities, and the 
conditions have forced many into the market. A very good white 3-carat 
stone can be bought for about 500 pesos (Iszq). and, with exchange at 350 per 
cent, premium, it could not be deemed profitable to import them This will 
hold good in jewelry of all kinds, and, while the present distressingly hard 
times continue, it will be of little avail to attempt to do any business in this 
line in Guatemala. Watches can hardly be classed among the luxuries, and 
it is quite possible that small sales could be made. 



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233 Soutb yourtb Vt(«^ PbiU^e[pbtot pu. 

Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



478 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 12, 1899 




Thit department i» deroted to practical and theoretical artidea lelatinc to 
the meaturement of time and kindred Bubjecta. In addition te the oontrflmtioDs 
of repilar writera, the views of expert horologiata will appear from time to time, 
aa wen aa expressiona of opinion and indiyidual experiences of watch, dock and 
chronometer makers. 

Subscribers are invited to send questions on matters on which they desire 
information. These will be answered through our columns^ which are also 
open for the ventilation of all phases of Horological opinion. 



Communications Should be Addressed Horological Department, 
The Jewelers Review, 170 & 17a Broadway. New York. 

HENRY GANNEY, Editor. 



Vol.. XXXII. 



APRIL 12, 1899. 



No. 15. 



REPORT ON VATCH AND CXOCK MAKING AT PARIS 

{Continued) 

BY HENRY GANNEY 

(Special Artisan Reporter on Watch and Clock Making to the Society of Ai^s 
and Royal Commission for the International Exhibition at Paris, 1878) 

The two hands at work on watches, of whom one was the' 
prize pupil, were engaged in cleaning an old watch, and gave no 
indication of watchmaking skill, which, indeed, would have been j 
very much out of place in so noisy and dusty a situation as the 
center of the working gallery of the exhibition. 

In taking leave of Besangon's watchmaking we may congrat- 
ulate France on its success in the establishment of this branch of 
industry and Besangon iipon having a steadily-growing pros- 
perity, their business havijig increased one-third since the last 
exhibition in 1867. The watch and clock trades of France, taken 
together, are valued for the present year at 57 million francs. 
The Swiss horological department comprises watches of every 
description and marine chronometers, clockwork being scarcely 
represented at all and forming a scarcely appreciable portion of 
their horological trade, which in reality comprises the principal 
manufactures of Switzerland, ^nd which receive* from the gov- 
ernment and people of the Cantons an amount of attention that is 
not accorded to any industry in England, except in the case of 
our staple industries in iron and cotton. The manufacture, unlike 
that of France, has been declining during the past few years, the 
commercial depression which has existed throughout the world 
appearing to be the principal cause of this : ^ut the expansion of 
the French watch manufacture has deprive W^.^ of their French 
market, which ten years since consume' a^out two million 
watches annually of Swiss production. Tf:c rs*i iishment of the 
watch manufacture in America during the ^. r period has also 
deprived them of another of their best mar' ■\< Tn 1872 America 
received 366,000 of their watches, but in 18, (. c ny 75,000, a dimin- 
ution of nearly 300,000. Besides this th 'v ^avc to compete in 



English and European markets with the 
before their own best customers. 

The Swiss are still nevertheless the Ir.i 
watches in the world, being estimated by tb- 
producing annually from. 56 to 60 million** r. 
is rather more than the value of the Fren. 
clock trade, added to the recently develops I 
The Swiss are making great efforts to ret I * 



people who were 

' 't producers of 
Prench rivals as 

.1. s' worth, which 
I their enormous 
h'h manufacture. 
> trade. I think 



it would be impossible to increase it, and it would certainly be 
difficult for them to exhibit more commercial activity and enter- 
prise than they have already shown, except by the introduction of 
steam and machinery, which would not lower the prices of their 
common work, but might give it more uniformity and usefulness 
than it at present possesses. Their common work employs ten 
times the amount of watchmaker's labor to keep it going than 
was originally expended in its production. Their keen commer- 
cial instincts have led them to meet every want, taste or whim of 
the public, without any reference to its bearing in the require- 
ments of a timekeeper, and this has been carried so far as to throw 
discredit upon their really high abilities as makers of genuine 
timekeepers. To please the eye and to attract attention arc the 
leading ideas in the bulk of their work. The distribution of the 
various parts and wheels of the watch is made with the express 
object of exposing their fine polish and attractive moving parts 
to the uninitiated eye. The form of movement most valued in 
English and American work, in which the delicate machinery is 
enclosed between two plates, with special additions of cap and 
case, so arranged as to exclude dirt, the most troublesome foe of 
timekeeping, has no favor with them, and is regarded as an an- 
tiquated curiosity. 

The English err on the side of complication, attempting, as 
they do, with fusee and chain, to equalize the force of the madn- 
spring, an t^nnecessary proceeding, as the modem escapements 
and balance springs correct of themselves the variations of the 
motive force, giving vibrations of unequal extent in equal times 
when properly adjusted. The usual form of Swiss movement, 
besides the disadvantage of exposing all its parts to dirt and 
danger, has no means of retaining the main-spring properly when 
wound up. and dangerous motion in all directions soon ends in a 
general catastrophe, whilst the stop-work, supposed to prevent 
the spring winding too far, from bad workmanship often pre- 
vents the spring winding or unwinding at all, and proves a stop- 
work in a very objectionable sense. The form of the pillar plate 
is virtually a series of steps to facilitate the deposition of dirt upon 
the escapement and small pinions. If a committee of watchmak- 
ers, dealers and cleaners had designed the movement to promote 
their mutual interests they could scarcely have succeeded in pro- 
ducing anything more adapted to promote a large and active 
trade. 

The public have been well pleased, but assuredly not well 
served, by Swiss watches, except by accident. The simple, use- 
ful, horizontal escapement (an English invention thrown aside 
as not meeting the requirements of high-class timekeeping) in 
reality requires little power to drive it and little care to make it: 
it performs under derangements which would be fatal to any 
other watches, and it has made the fortunes of Switzerland, whilst 
spoiling their reputation as horologists. Both French and Swiss 
lament that English marine chronometers fill all the markets and 
keep their own trade from developing, notwithstanding the great 
advantage they possess in special government observatories for 
testing horological instruments, in the large prizes and rewards 
which are given to all who succeed, and in the support of schools 
for promoting the art and science of horology. Their powers of 
production appear unlimited in every direction, but imitation 
may be held to be a virtue in this art) since during the past eighty 

Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



April 12, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



479 



years watches have not altered their form, or received any im- 
provements of Value, and the means of production, apart from the 
introduction of American machinery, are the same as they were 
a century ago. 

In London we are not only using the same kind of tools our 
great grandfathers used, but in many cases the very tools them- 
selves, supplemented by a few Swiss additions, the Swiss tool- 
makers having annihilated the English watch toolmakers some 
years ago. The horological schools of Switzerland appear to be 
very successful, and the work of their pupils equals the best ef- 
forts of the most skillful workmen. It is in fact produced by 
workmen who enter the school to improve their skill. 

In the Swiss schools the pupils are not necessarily youths; 
and the work, from simpje watches to the most complicated re- 
peaters and high class marine chronometers,- is all that could be 
desired. Six schools exhibit at Paris, viz., Geneva, Bionne, 
Chaux-de-Fonds, Fleurier, St. Iniier, Locle. The first used to 
be considered t*he most distinguished school, but the last is now 
the most active and flourishing. The fees of five francs per 
month for natives and twenty francs for strangers are within the 
means of the humblest. The London Clockmakers' Company 
or Guild might surely with advantage promote an horological 
school in London, or the task might, perhaps, be undertaken by 
the Horological Institute, which already possesses drawing 
classes, and gives occasional lectures on the practical details of 
work to young men, but at present furnishes no advantages which 
they cannot obtain elsewhere. As a commercial speculation I 
have no doubt that a school of this kind would answer, as num- 
bers of young men are sent to London ever>- year from the prov- 
inces to finish their education as practical watchmakers in the 
various workshops of Qerkenwell and London. These pay 
large fees, often in excess of the value of what they acquire. 

A certificate of proficiency in watchmaking from an author- 
ized institution would be very serviceable to talented young 
watchmakers without capital, as conferring upon them a reliable 
claim to a means of securing public confidence. They at pres- 
ent are often lost for the want of some testimonial of efficiency, 
like that which a pupil of the Royal Academy of Music receives 
in his, art, and which is obviously more required, as a musician 
can in a few seconds demonstrate his abilities to all but the hope- 
lessly deaf, whilst much faith and some capital must be invested 
by the horologist's patron before he can be as effectually con- 
vinced of a horological aspirant's ability. The great lesson I 
have learned from the exhibition, or perhaps I should rather say 
have had confirmed, for I had learned the lesson before, is that 
the horological manufactures of England require reorganizing 
by the larger employment of capital and machinery in every de- 
partment. The little which has been done in that direction is 
not enoug*h to effect any great extension of our trade. The ap- 
plication of machinery to the production of rough movements 
does not accomplish much unless the finishing is facilitated by 
the same means. But the application of machinery to the more 
delicate purposes involves more expensive tools and processes, 
and on that account finds little favor in England at present, and. 
in ignorance of what the Americans accomplish, is by many held 
to be impossible. Advertisements in trade journals from Amer- 
ican machinists who make a specialty of the construction 
of such tools elicit no response or trial of their capa- 
bilities. Self-sufficiency is the characteristic of the Eng- 
lish watch trade, and this in the face of the fact that 
France and Switzerland each turn out millions of watches 
annually, and that America possesses machinery capable 
of producing half a million a year, whilst our. return of 
cases marked at Goldsmiths' Hall amounted to only 154,000 for 
the year 1876 as the gross manufacture, and from this a large de- 
duction must be made to correctly express the number of watches, 
as some thousands of cases come from abroad, or are made here 
for Swiss and American movements, to secure the advantages 
accruing from the London hall mark. There are no facilities 
possessed by other centers of horological production that Lon- 
don does not enjoy to a greater degree. 

{To be continued^ 



AVitalPointofa 
Watch for accuracy 

is the hairspring. The hairsprings 
used in all of our watches are made 
of the finest make of steel in the 
world. The hairsprings used in the 
most costly watches could not be of 
better steel, because none better is made. 
Our hairsprings, hardened and tempered 
to bring them to a condition of perfect elas- 
ticity, are then very carefully timed in the 
balances. 





An accurately timed hairspring and bal- 
ance is used as standard. The new bal- 
ances to be timed are taken up. one by one, 
and rotated (the lower point of* the staffs 
resting on a polished surface) 
until, by changing the hold of 
the tweezers, the new spring 
and the accurate standard move 
in perfect accord. 

The cheapest of ourWatches 
have the same care In this 
respect as the higher priced 
ones. 




THE 



New England Watch Co. 

Waterbury, Conn. 



Digitized by 



i^oogle 



48o 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 12, 1899 



THE VALTHAM HOROLOGICAL SCHOOL i 

Americans are waking up to the fact that trade schools are 
immensely helpful in the direction^ of retaining American su- 
premacy in the world tof skilled labdn -''indeed, so prevalent is 
the idea becoming that special training is quite as necessary for 
the fullest development of mechanical pursuits as it is in the arts 
and sciences, that in some portions of the country the State has 
made distinct advances along those lines. Massachusetts has 
technical colleges to which students are attracted, not only from 
all parts of the United States, but from all parts of the world; and 
in some of the larger cities of the State textile schools have been 
established that young men may be carefully trained in those in- 
dustries in order that that commonwealth may not lose her 
place at the head of the manufacturing centers of the country. 

The establishment of watch factories was naturally followed 
by the demand for technical schools in that profession, for watch- 
making properly conducted is a profession rather than a trade. 
The American Waltham Watch Company recogrnized the advant- 
age of special instruction more than thirty years ago, when it 
commenced the publication of a series of papers on topics allied^ 
to watch manufacture. 

The development of mechanics in the watch manufactories 






WORKSHOP IN THE WALTHAM HOROLOGICAL SCHOOL 



iiiiiiiiiiiiiitiiiiiiiiitiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii 



82 NASSAU ST., 



showed also that under special training the young man with me- 
chanical tastes need not spend four or five years apprenticed to a 
watchmaker to pick up his profession in tfhe customarily slow 
manner of actual experience on work as it came in, and finally 
conclude his apprenticeship without the slightest knowledge of 
the reason why wheel teeth and pinions were shaped as they werie 
or why escapements, to produce the best results, must be coil^ 
struct -d on purely scientific lines. ■ 

hnical schools in watchmaking naturally followed the de- 
v- .iient of such facts, schools in which the student is carefully 
c'.nd thoroughly taught the scientific problems involved in the 
constniction of the watch, and has the instruction "driven home," 
as it were, by being supplemented by the actual experience df 
manufacturing all portions of the watch from the raw materials, 
including plates, trains, steel work, escapements and jewels. So 
careful and thorough is this instruction in the horological schools 
of America that a special agent sent to this country from Ger- 
many to make a study of the subject reported to his principals 
that in this particular the United States led the world. His ob- 
servation further led him to place the Waltham Horological 
School at the head of all others in this country. 

The Waltham Horological School has peculiar and unques- 
tioned advantages because of its location. It is j-frfht in the J -.^ m^ — -^ T^^ 
renter of a city of watchmakers, on the same street ^^^ within • M ^V r^ \/ ^ 
a quarter of a mile of the great American Walth^K, \lJdX^ ^^^'- » * •• ^* * * ^^ 
tory. The very atmosphere \^ permeated mx\x u^naking. 

Way back in 1853 the Jiosion ]\ra.tcfh Company, ^^t^^iisly lo- 
cated in Roxbury. removed its ^».*;re plant to W^i.P^i ' * '"' 



it came those giants in the business, Dennison and Stratton and 
Hall and Bingham and the others. From this factory men went 
out who founded other factories, but the American still continued 
its place at the head of the procession as a nursery of skilled me- 
chanics. 

The city is ideally located for the business. The Charles 
River, as beautiful as a picture in and at)ovc Waltham, cuts the 
city directlv in two, and on the south bank is situated the Amer- 
ican factory. Across the river near the north bank is located the 
United States factory. Down the river further, on the soi'th 
bank, is the large plant of the A^ierican Watch Tool Company, 
while not far away is the factor}' of the Stark Watch Tool Com- 
pany. Further up the river are the Waltham Screw factory and 
the Waltham Dial Company's factory. The Orient and Comet 
bicycle factories are here, as wedl as two emery wheel plants. 
Everything is in the spirit of thc,4iigher class of the mechanic 
arts. And in such surroundings, with delightful homes on every 
hand, is the Waltham Horological School. 

The school was established in 1870 by Dolphas D. Palmer, 
for many years one of the most skillful workmen in the employ of 
the American Waltham Watch Company, or, as it tshen was, the 
American Watch Company. Its origin was in a single room, 
where but three or four students could be accommodated at one 
time. Indeed, Mr. Palmer's business was such that he did not 
care to have charge of a larger number. In 1892 Eugene H. 
Swain became associated with Mr. Palmer, and arrangements 
were made to enlarge the scope of the school. From that time 
on the number of pupils has steadily increased and the accommo- 
dations have continually been enlarged, until to-day the school 
occupies a two-story building 50x20 feet, and capable of affording 
ample room to its fifty students. 

In 189s Mr. Swain became sole proprietor and instructor, but 
with the increase in number of students and the enlargement of 
the curriculum of the school he has had to employ four sub- 
masters to assist in carrying on the work. These assistants Mr. 
Swain requires shall be experts, both in skill and in imparting in- 
struction in the branches under their supervision. Not only is 
the theory and practice of watchmaking thoroughly taught, but 
the most careful instruction is given in those adjuncts to *he 
business so essential to watchmakers conducting busines3 out- 
side of large cities, optics and engraving. 

The school is thoroughly equipped for its work. It is in fact 
a complete watch factory on a small scale, and there is every- 
thing needed in the construction from the crude materials as they 
go to any watch factory. Indeed, every student is presumed to 
construct a watch completely while pursuing his studies. 



The largest known diamond weighs 970 carats, over half a 
pound. It was found four years ago at Jagersfontein. It is per- 
fection in color, but has a small black spot in the center. 



H. S. Kt^AMHt? 



NEW YORK 



Olatch materials, Cools, Optical goods I 



A Full A«ortment 



9 



Alio a Full Uoe of 



I both American and Imported ^ ITatchcs, Qocks and Jewelfy | 

i Our new "Jeweler's Guide" will soon f 

I BE ISSUED. Send for it -no charge I 



S 




Roxbury, removed its entire plant to W^j^P^^f rid with 

\ 



8 IMve SMM 0«i4 BMP! aM j^hrtt. 



CASES! 



Digitized by VnOO^ iC 



April 12, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



481 




LORD GRIMTHORPE ON THE PIN WHEEL ESCAPEMENT 

There is a very convenient form of the dead escapement for 
large clocks which goes by this name. It is said to have been 
invented by Lepante in 1753, but also by Whitehurst, of Derby. 
The teeth are pins of brass wire set in the face of the wheel, and 
the upper half of each cylinder cut off, as it could not act and 
would only waste room in the drop; but I introduced the plan of 

cutting oflf a small slice of the under 
or acting side also, as shown 
in Figiu-e 15, because unless that 
is done you must either have th.* 
wheel very large, or the pins very 
thin, or long pallets, or a large angle 
of impulse, which are all objection- 
able. The advantages of this es- 
capement are that it does not requite 
so much accuracy of construction as 
the others and less is lost in the drop, 
and therefore you can get many 
more pins than teeth to act in a 
wheel of given size, which often 
saves one wheel in the clock. If 
a pin gets damaged it is easily replaced, whereas if a tooth is 
damaged the wheel is ruined. The blow on both pallets being 
downwards, the action is more steady than it sometimes is in the 
others. The pallets are best made with their cross section 
rather convex, and also "half dead." The scapewheel of the 
large clock at King's Cross, by which the Great Exhibition time 
was kept, and of many others made from my design, is only four 
inches wide, with forty pins in it. The lower pallet should be 
the inner one, and the higher one outside the wheel because this 
makes the action of the teeth on both of them more direct. If 
the pallets are on opposite sides of the w^eel with two sets of 
pins they may be alike. The pins must then be at alternate 
places. 

M. GROSRSAN ON THE FUSEE 

The respective position of barrel and fusee in all the Eng- 
lish fusee movements is also irrational and ought to be in- 
verted. The latter position of the fusee would save a con- 
siderable amount of friction on the pivots without a loss or dis- 
advantage on any other side. The pressure acting on the pivots 
of the fusee in the English movement is by this defect of con- 
struction the highest attainable maximum. The diagram 29 
represents the fusee wheel and center pinion. In order to as- 





Pig. 87 



FIG. 28 



certain the pressure on the pivot it must be supposed that the 
point of contact between the wheel and pinion at F is the ful- 
crum of a lever, on the other end of which. G, the power trans- 
mitted by the chain is acting. It requires no proof that the pres- 
sure on the fusee pivot, C, is equal to double the power exerted 
at G. 

With the other plan of construction illustrated by diagram 30 
the fulcrum is the same at F; the power acts very near it, and 
the pressure at the pivot, C, will consequently amount to about 
one-fourth of the power exerted at G. 

The difference of pressure in the two cases spoken of is as 8 
to i; and, as the friction is in the ratio of the pressure, the ad- 



ieitil»UtiUt»CKitttaMt»MMK 



NEW GRADES 
18 Size 21 Jewel Movements 



THE 



Hamilton Watch Co. 

has placed on the market the following: New Grades 
of 18 Siztf 21 Jewel Movements, both Hunting: and 
O^ti Face: 

2\ extra fine Ruby Jewels in Gold Settings, 
Nickel, Double Roller Escapement, Steel 
Escape Wheel, Sapphire Pallets, Patent 
Micrometric Regulator, Breguet Hair- 
spring. Double Sunk Dial, beautifully 
finished Nickel Plates, Gilt Lettering, 
Steel parts Champferred, Adjusted to 
Temperature, Isochronism and Positions, 

AND 

21 Jewels, Nickel, Steel Escape Wheel, '^ 
Breguet Hairspring, Patent Regulator, 
Double Sunk Glass Enamel Dial, beauti- 
fully damaskeened. Gilt Lettering, Ad- 
justed to Temperature and Positions. 

These Movements are made whh the same ex- 
treme caret and possess the same superiority over all 
others that have made the name ''HAMILTON'' 
famous everywhere* 

¥¥ 

Write for Prices to the 

Raniltoti Olatcl) Co., imm^, p<t 



Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



482 



tHE JEWfeLfiftS R£VI£W 



April 12, 1899 



vantage to be attained by this modification is considerable, 
though it must be remembered that the difference of pressure 
in the two cases is in the ratio of the pressure and is greatest 
when the chain acts at the bottom of the fusee, and diminishes 
towards the top of it; but even there It will be about as 4 to i. 
It is surprising that this arrangement, the advantage of which 
is beyond any doubt and which is due to Julian Leroy, has not 
found any followers in England, the country of the fusee move- 
ment. It has been employed so much the more by French and 
German makers. 

The value of the fusee is much discounted by the new reports 





of the performance of fifty watches that obtained the highest 
number of marks during the year under trial at the observatory. 
Not one fusee watch was under trial, and neither double roller 
nor double overcoil springs did any better than the singk ones, 
but nearly all had the Bonniksen Karrusel revolving escapement. 
We give the rates of the first twenty watches: 



THE J899 CLOOC AND VATCH DIAL 

A very simple expedient has recently been o^led for de- 
termining on which day of the week a certain date of the cur- 
rent year will fall. Its inventor is a German clockmaker, and our 
illustration will explai.n 
his arrangement of the 
figures on the watch «Qr 
clock dial below the 
Roman numerals which 
denote the hours. These 
numerals, it may be 
added, may also be 
looked upon as the cor- 
responding months of 
the year. The Arabic 
numerals shovM \ be 
added to the date of the 
month in question. The 
result should be divided by 
7 and the remainder indicates the day on which the date will fall 
For instance, if the remainder is i, it is Sunday; if 2 Monday, and 
so on. When there is no remainder, Saturday is indicated. The 
German inventor illustrates his plan by the following example: 
Supposing it is desired to find on what day the birthday of the 
German Emperor, which is January 27, will fall this year. Add 
the date 27 to the 7 appearing under I on the dial, which repre- 
sents the first month, January. The result is 34. Divide this 
number by seven, which gives a remainder of six. 




Kew Observatory, England, Record of Twenty of the Highest Rated Watches 



Watch Dcpoaitsd by— 



S. Yeomans, Coventry 

Baumeift Co.. London 

Frid lander, Coventry 

Montandon-Robert, Geneva . . . 

S. Smith 9b Son. London 

Montandon-Robert, Geneva . . . 

Fridlander, Coventry 

E. Fiinn 

Baume & Co . London 

Montandon-Robert. Geneva .. 
Baume & Co., London 

W. Matthews, Coveotrju 

8. Yeomans, Coventry 

W. Ilaithew8« Coventry 

W. Vasel, London 

J. Adams, Coventry 

S. Yeomans, Coventry 

Carley & Co., London 

J. White & Son, Coventry 

Usher & Cole, London 

Frldl''- '^r, Coventry 



I 



% 

a 

p 

'A 



76152 

108C37 

X5569 

1079 

1898-1 

1097 

25570 

18213 

103031 

1102 

108038 

36679 

"16673 



1799 
6315 
76689 
50163 
35928 
: 295478: 
14683 



SSCAPSMSNT, BaLANCK SPRING, 

Kto. 



S r., jf.b., 8.O., Karmsel 

G.b., so., Toarbillon chrontr. . 

S r., ff.b., 8.O., Karmsel 

Dr., g.b., so 

G.b., d.o., piLt chron. Karmsel 
D.r., f?.b.. so., sees, chronph... 

S.r., ff b., 8.O., Karrusel 

8 r., g.b ,s.o.. Karrusel 

G.b., s o., Tourbilion chrontr.. 
D.r., g.b.. 8.O., mln. chronph... 
G.b., s o., Tourbilion chrontr 

S r., g.b..8.o., Karrusel 

S.r., g.b., 8.O., Karmsel 

S r., g.b , S.O., Karrusel 

8.r.,g.b, d.o 

S.r., g.b., 8.C1., Karrusel 

S.r., g.b., S.O., Karrusel 

S.r., (f.b.. S.O., Karrusel 

S.r., g.b., 8.0 

S.r., gb., d.o., Karrusel 

S.r.,g.b., S.O.. , 



Mban Daily Rati. 



..5.8 
—1.7 
..1.9 
-1.6 
..1.4 
.2.0 
..0.9 
..8.3 
—2.2 
-0.8 
..27 
.0.7 
—1.2 
..1.0 
-3.3 
— 4 r> 
-0.5 
..1.0 
—1.0 
-2.1 
K -*1.2 






.6.0 
—2.2 
..2.2 
—2.9 
.0.8 
..1.6 
..0.9 
80 
-0 9 
..1.7 
..1.7 
..0.5 
-0.7 
-0.8 
—4.3 
-5.0 
—0.5 
..0.2 

•..r.5 

-2.8 
-0.7 



sees. 
y6.1 
^2.2 
. 2.5 
—2.7 
..0.1 
..2.1 
..1.3 
..8.1 
-0.6 
..0.0 

:%%• 

1.1 
.0.4 
-2 4 
-4.9 
..0.6 
-15 
..2.5 
—2.1 
-2.0 



sees. 
. 6.2 
—1.1 
..2,4 
-4.8 
..2.2 
..0 2 
..2.9 
..4 4 
-1.9 
—0 2 
.2.8 
-0.1 
-0.7 
-0 4 
—1.5 
—1.5 
-0.1 
..0.3 
-10 
-1.7 
-1.1 



•d 



sees. 
..6.5 
-0.6 
.2.6 
-1.8 
. 1.2 
.4.5 
-0.6 
.52 
—2.7 
..1.6 
.3.9 
.10.9 
-0.2 
-0.4 
—2.1 
-2.9 
-2 8 
..1 5 
—1.2 
-1.4 
-0.9 






r 



sees. 

4 

0. 8 

0. 4 

3 

0. 3 

0. 3 

0. 3 

0. 4 

0. 8 

0. 8 

0. 4 

0. 4 

0. 4 

0. 8 

0. 4 

0. 4 

0. 4 

Q 5 

0. 5 

0. 6 

0. 4 



o2h 

1^ 



cd 

til 

ih 

1^' 



sees. 
0.03 
0.04 
0.04 
002 
0.04 
0.04 
0.04 
0.02 
0.06 
0.04 
0.05 
0.06 
0.06 
0.08 
0.03 
0.08 
0.03 
0.04 
0.03 
0.04 
0.04 



= 3^ 



sees. 
8.7 
8.2 
8.2 
6.8 
4.0 
7.0 
4.7 
4.0 
4.5 
4.5 
4.7 
4.8 
88 
6.0 
5.2 
5.0 
5.2 
4.8 
7.2 
4.2 
47 



Marks awardrd 



4 
Q 



O 2 P 



32.0 
84.0 
82.0 
83.4 
88.1 
84.4 

S:S 

88.9 
88.4 
84.7 
32.0 
82.1 
84.8 
81.7 
82.8 
81 4 
80.7 
80 1 
28.5 
81.5 



39.8 
87.7 
890 
86.6 
87.6 
36.1 
80.8 
87.0 
87.1 
86 5 
37.6 
88.7 
88.7 
87.6 
86.5 
35.1 
86.6 
86 9 
36.9 
88.6 
85.8 



^2. 

li 
II 



|7.« 

ij?f 

18.5 
17.4 
17.5 
17.8 
18.5 
16.2 
17.8 
16.9 
16.8 
16 1 
14 6 
17.9 
18.1 
17.8 
17.5 
18.8 
17.8 
17.5 



89.2 
80.0 
88.6 
80.5 
8S.1 
88.0 
88.0 
87.7 
87.2 
87.2 
878 
87.0 
869 
86.5 
86.1 
86.0 
85.t 
85.1 
846 
81.4 
84.3 



IL the above list, the following abbreviations are used, viz :-s.r. for single roller ; d.r. for double roller ; g.b. for going barrel ; [s o. for alngle overcoil ; d.o. for 

double overcoil ;] + for gaining rate ; — for losing rate. 



THE EZRA r. BOWMAN TECHNICAL SCHOOL 

Inoorporatlns the Amerloan Horologloal Institute 

^horVuVhua^h'ngo/:.' Watchmaklii? and Engravinr 

Our students are enabled to QBT and HOLD positions. If you want to increase your money- 
earning capacity, write for terms and information. * EZRA F. BOWMAN, Manager, Lancaster, Pa. 



no doubt you know what you do not want, 

but perhaps you may not know what you do want. 

I ^.av- hnd experience, 

t'. < have ability - and 

a. 1 iit V i.r service — for a reasonable consideration. 



all sorts of 
commercial literature 



J.W. SCHWARTZ, 

•00m 905, Temple Court, NEW YORK. 



Me SPINDLER & CO. 

HAVE REMOVED TO 

82=84 Nassau St. 

NBW YORK 

Where thev have much larger and better 
quarters lif PROVED MACHINERY has been 
put in, and our facilities are iu every way in- 
creased. Our specially is 

GOLT> LOCKETS 



of every kind, shape and style, 
quarters for these ^ooda. 



We aie head- 



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REMOVAL.. 



H. & E. O. BELAIS, 

-r- DIAMOND MOUNTINGS, 



Are Mm at 



4r JOHN STREET, New York. 



ommiQum for odd mouMTiMam a mpmciAUTY, 

ZELLER, WOLF & BRO. 

MANUFACTUMRt AND IMPORTfm OP 

Fine Vdvct, PltishMMorocco Cases 

FOR lEWELRY AND SILVERlTAiRE 
Tra)fs •! Cvwr > M cr l^ t« for Tr w atori * Cwm , SImw 



75 and 77 NASSAU STREET 



»AMII ■(»■•, LIATHEN NOVCLTMi, OAMO OAtU, 
MN AMD MM FAS*, tAIIFLl OANM, KTa 



NEW YORK 



SEAMLESS WIRE___«^ 
.^..IN ALL SIZES AND QUALITIES 
Maaofactared bjr 

EDWARD N. COOK. 

Ooid and Silver Roiled i>late. "ALUMINUM SOLDER," 

144 PINE STREET. PROVIDENCE, R. L 

^lia55of Bros. 9^0., 

IMPORTERS AND JOBBERS IN 

Diamonds, Watches, Jewelry, 

Silverware, Qocks, Materials, Tools and Optical Goods. 

N«w Yerk City : Albuiy. N. Y. : 

9, II, 13 MAIDBN LANB. 6a & 64 STATE 5TRBBT. 

Edwin Passmore 

« Lapidary « 

OMmimi9„»m,im FINE GEMS 

JiMCTicaw 6<lll « Specially 

A FINE ASSORTMENT IN STOCK 



Room 76, Jewtkaf BniUiag, Boston 



Jl. 1 Rirscbberg, 



newtty DMidM « Spedalty. 
4M maHHittoii met, . . BostOM, man. 



IDictoria Ibotel 

Michigan Avenue & Van Buren Street, Chicago 




^-i^ 



A high -class hotel located in the best part of 

Chicago, fronting Lake Michigan, 

and easily accessible to the 

business district 



SPEQAL CARE TAKEN OF JEWELERS' SAMPLES 



I Americao Plao, $3.00 aod opwards 
KATES I EaropcM " 1.50 " " 



C. F. HnXIOAV 
FRAVK UPMAV 



ALOIS KOHN & CO. 

mawifactiirm Of S olid QoM 0)9111$ 

LORGNETTES AND GUARDS A SPECIALTY. 

4 MAIDEN LANE, NEV YORK. 



>b»j»!)»#j» j »j»j»j»j»j»j» j »j»j»^ ^ 



! 



n Wm 



r" 



YOU WANT 

FINE - 

TRAYS and' 

CASES 



' SHOW UP your Goods 



!; 




I 



S. VALFER t CO. 

Makes them 

SEND /or CATALOGUE 



S. VALFER & CO.p 33 maiden lane, n. y. 

Makers of FINE CASES and TRAYS 
FOR JEWELERS AND SILVERSMITHS. 



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484 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 12, 1899 



CH AS. F.WOOD lb CO., DIAMONDS 



IMPORTERS AND CUTTERS. 



I MAIDEN LANE, NEW YORK. 



HENRY 0. CLEWER, 

Poliilxr 4Md Umr 
of Tine Jewelry. 

METAL LAPPINO IN ALL ITS VARIED 
STYLES. 

FACETING A SPECIALTY. 

Satin and Bnclisb Finish, Btrnican and Roman 

Color, Bright Plating and Silvering, 

OzidUing. etc. All Work 

Gnaranteed. 

80 NASSAU ST., NEW YORK. 



G.G.MALLIET&CO. 

Diamond Ciimrs 

14 Maiden Lane 

^JP^ YORK 



SOHoOwcnVlikdaet. 



A i i u tc w > tn» 
2 Tulpftn&t 



PATENTS 



^^^^•.^i-«s?f,«**« 



^^ „ _ nd Ml 

OTFOL mHh«—rtl lbml yw podjjm<T»r ■ad«b^ 

H.B.WILLS0NiCO. 

PATENT LAWYERS. 

uiMtmif., WASHINGTON. D. C. 



Portrai t copied w mt<fm. 

$1.25 




We Pay 
Raliini Ex- 



BMt naiali. 

Darable. 

We have made price conAittert with A No i 
work as 1 -w as possible. We allow nothing: but 
Brst-class portraits to leave our place Our work 
is guaranteed not to Fade nor Peel Off 

TRY US, YOU WILL Be BATIQFIKD. 

VILLlAl BARTHIAR, 2A Maiden Lane H. T. 



w 

TKAPB MARK 



BPECIALTiea IN 

SMELLING AND SALTS BOTTLES, 
Salve and Pull Boxes 

-^ FOR MOUNTING. 



Catting Sbop on Pmnlaea. 84 Year's Eiperience. 

W. H. LUM, 46 Murray St., Now York. 



LEON HIRSCH 

Importer of Watches 

No. 45 MAIDEN LANE 
NEV YORK 

Will Remove on or about 

APRIL J 0th 

TO THE 

LORSCH BUILDING 

37 & 39 MAIDEN LAISTE 
FIRST FLCXDR. 



FACTORY : 

CHAUX-DE-FOTTOS (SWITZERLAND) 
Rue Daniel Jean Richard 9* 




AN EYE GLASS 
CLEANER 

k ideal preparation for the 
immediate restoration of lenses 
their original brilliancy and 
>thneM. Contains nothing in- 
jurious. One bottle will last a Iouk 
time. 
r dozen; $15.00 per i 



The SS Auto-adjustable and 
Triple-bearing Eye Glass Guard 



4i^ 



The only guard that 
can be adjusted to fit any 
nose It has but one un- 
interrupted surface with 
three points of bearing, 
which more evenly dis- 
tributes the pre&sure 
element, and may be dis- 
posed of evenly and 
speedily with no other 
tools than the hand 



SPBNCBR OPTICAL MFQ, CO. 
IS Maiden Lane. 



etnil Schneider, 



REFINER OF. 



Gold, Silver and Platinum 



AND 



Office and |{[|y|Qy[[) *" 451 to 473 Riverside Ave. 
^"^' NEWARK, N. J. 



(Ue do our Own Smelling 



Jewelers and Silversmiths are cordially invited to inspect our plant. 



Cutters DIAMONDS Importers 



IJk.Xjl 



X»J TI^JL,Va2 



OppeDteiinep Bros. & ptt; 

NASSAU & JOHN (Prescott Baiiditig), NEW YORK. 2 TuUp St., Amstefdam. 45 Holbom VUdtict, London 




Volume XXXII 



NEW YORK, APRIL 19. 1899 



No. 16 



A.L.8ERG0MB 

Mr. A. L. Sercomb is just 
attaining his majority as 
manager of the Western 
branch of the Meriden Brit- 
annia Company. In 1875 he 
first accepted a position with 
that company in New York, 
and in 1878, twenty-one 
years ago, he came to Chi- 
cago to take up the position 
he still occupies. 

Bom in Milwaukee, Wis., 
in the summer of 1847, of 
English parentage, his early 
life was spent in that city. 
When the calls for volun- 
teers came in the early six- 
ties* nothing could prevent 
Sercomb's enlisting. He was 
really too young to be eligi- 
ble, but he succeeded in join- 
ing the ranks of the 39th 
Wisconsin Volunteers. Re- 
turning to Milwaukee after 
the war, he went into the 
crockery and glassware busi- 
ness tender the firm name of 
Sanford & Sercomb. In 
1870 he gave up this business 
and went to New York, 
where he identified himself 
for five years with the whole- 
sale dry goods trade. In 
1875, as we have .said, he was 
engaged by the Meriden 
Britannia Company. 




(^ (^ (P. 



A. L. SERCOMB 
Western Representative Meriden Britannia Company 



Mr. Sercomb is a man of 
many clubs. He has been 
president of the North Shore 
Club, and is a member of 
the Union League Club, the 
Citizens* Commercial Asso- 
ciation, Apollo Command- 
ery No. i, K. T., Columbia 
Post, G. A. R.J and other or- 
ganizations. 

Among fellow jewelers at 
Chicago he is well known 
and well liked. He has been 
president of the Chicago 
Jewelers' Association, and 
was chairman of the Recep- 
tion Committee appointed 
for the last banquet. 

His home, on the Lake 
Shore Drive, in Lake View, 
is one of the many beautiful 
residences of that fashiona- 
ble neighborhood. The two 
sons who make up the family 
are both at St. Paul's School 
in Concord, N. H., and one 
of them has just passed his 
college examinations. 

Mr. Sercomb and his wife 
have sailed for England and 
Europe for an extended trip. 
While in England they ex- 
pect to look after Mr. Ser- 
comb's connections there, 
and will return in ample 
time to look after fall busi- 
ness. 



DIAMONDS 



Wm. S. Hedges & Co. 

Importers ... 

Diamonds and Precious Stones 
1 70 Broadway, New York 

rj Holborn Viaduct, London. 



(5. (j>. (f. 



Diamond Jewelry 



Mount & woodhull 

FX)RMERLY WITH LATE FIRM OF 

RANDEL, BAREMORE & BILLINGS, 

Importers of 

DIAMONDS.^^ 

Other Precious Stones, Pearls, Etc. 

Makers of Fine Diamond Jewelry 

26 MAIDEN LANE 
(Southwest corner Nassau Street) 

JOHN C. MOUNT MF'WVORK' 

ADDISON W. WOODHULL IM^rf W I V^^iVIV 



FOR TABLB OF CONTBNTS AHD INDEX TO ADVERTISERS SEE PAGE 506 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 19, 1899 



ESTABLISHED 1840. 



Qiester Billings & Son 

SMOemrt to RANDEL, BAREMORE & BILUNGS 

IMPORTERS OF 

DIAMONDS 



illustrations and all. This we cannot but regard. as a compliment, 
but would suggest that he has forgotten one important detail, 
that of acknowledging the source from whence he obtained the 
artick. We see that Professor Fergusson is credited, and that 
very properly, but Mr. Fergusson wrote this article especially for 
our own columns; and though we have no objection to our con- 
temporaries reprinting articles th-ey consider valuable, we would 
suggest that they do us the courtesy of acknowledging the source 
from whence thev are obtained. 



1840 RANnEL A BAREMORE. 
1860 RANDEU BAREMORE A CO. 
1880 RANDEL, BABEMORE A BILUNOS. 



Othor ProolORt Stoaot briI PoBrIt 



58 Nunii Street. DIAMOND t^ 

29 Maiden Laner 22 Holbofii Viaduct, ^ TDTTTCT OV 



mmw YORK. 

J. B. BOWDEN. 



M. L. BOWDEN. 



J. B. BOWDEN & CO. 

Makers of FINGER RINGS 

OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. 

1 NlAIDEN LANE, 

NEW YORK. 



Cor. BROADWAY. 



tmmffUfimmjiimmjiKi^^ 



Fred. W- Lewis & Co- 
diamonds, PEARLS 

RUBIES, EMERALDS 

No. 1 MAIDEN LANE 
Corner Broadwoy NEW YORK 

PUBUCATIONS RECEIVED 
In this odiimn we Bhall note tlie Interettixii: featuiet of our Tarlous ex- 
c]ia]i|;e8 and shall give notes of the trade pnblicationa which are Istaed. We 
invite onr readers to send us their new catalopiesy circulars, and other pnhU- 
cations of general interest, to which ^^ shall be pleased to devote a portion 
of this space. 

The Jewelers Journal for March is to hand from Chicago. 
It has as a frontispiece an illustration of the silver loving cup 
made by the C. Prcusser Jewelry Company, of Milwaukee, and 
presented to the Hon. Carl Schurz by his friends in that city. 

Books for Business Men. — We have received a very com- 
plete and useful list of books on business and economics which 
is issued by the Business Publishing Company, 32 Lafayette 
place, New York. The same firm issues "Business," a magazine 
telling of th€ latest improvements in business methods and offer- 
ing many suggestions for increasing the money-saving and time- 
saving power of the office and workshop. 

The English Trade Papers for April are just to hand. The 
"Horological Journal" has, among other items, an interesting 
and valuable article on the automatic regulation of clocks which 
we hope to notice further in the near future. The active steps 
which are being taken at the present moment in England to en- 
force and add to the statutory powers of the Goldsmiths' Com- 
pany for the detection and punishment of counterfeiters of Hall 
Marks is noticed and commented on by all the papers and is the 
one subject of interest for the moment. The "Watchmaker and 
Jeweler*' draws attention to several ways in which the officials 
themselves who are responsible for the Hall marking mig'ht mend 
their ways. There is no doubt that hardship is often inflict<^"d by 
the clumsy methods of the assay office. This paper \\nc, its usual 
budget of news and keeps one well informed as to tJip tdX^ ^^ ^^^^ 



trade in England. In the Optical Department of 



Ml. 9 



<i,per we 



see that the editor shows his appreciation oi mattei. *^ined in 

our own columns by publishing the same verbatjV ^O/^.-^eratim, 



JEVELRY ENAMELING 

It is usual to leave all enameling and even repairs to a special 
enam.eler, and this will remain to be the case with most gold- 
smiths who have such workmen in their employ. Many, how- 
ever, would like to be able to do ordinary repairs themselves, 
besides being anxious to acquire a knowledge of enameling in 
order to increase their all-around proficiency. 

Enamel itself is nothing but a very fusible glass. In an inter- 
esting article "The Watchmaker and Jeweler" (London) states 
that it is made from some pure form of silica, such as infusorial 
earth or quartz soda of a special quality, and oxide of lead. De- 
tails of the manufacture are unnecessary, as few enamelers think 
of preparing their own enamel. Enamel melts at about 800 deg. 
C, but the fusing point varies considerably, and this circumstance 
often complicates matters a good deal. Hence every lot of enamel 
bought should be tested for its fusion temperature, as only those 
which melt at the same temperature should be used together. 
Samples of all the enamels to be used should be heated on a piece 
of copper, or better, of the particular metal to be used. 

Enamel is powdered before use. It is first cracked by being 
thrown hot into cold water, and then ground in an agate or por- 
celain mortar, or, as Benvenuto Cellini recommends, with distilled 
water in a steel mortar. The water is poured off and renevired from 
time to time until it runs off quitt c'ear. A little nitric acid applied 
subsequently frees the glass from traces of iron, but must be 
scrupulously washed away afterwards. The powder is now ready, 
and is applied wet to the object to be enameled with a spatula like 
that used in modeling or a fine sable brush. The best metals for 
enameling are gold, copper and brass. Easily fusible alloys, as 
well as lead, tin, zinc, and aluminum, are inadmissible. The sur- 
face must be absolutely clean and poHshed and must especially be 
free from every suspicion of grease. The metal is heated and 
boiled in cynide of potassium to free it from every trace of oil or 
fat. The surface should also, independently of any depressions in 
it, be roughened, and this is best done with a roughing graver. 
Many enamelers, for the purpose of increasing the adhesion and 
consistency of the enamel powder, recommend that the damp 
mass should be mixed with a little honey, resin, or quince-juice. 
As regards this, every practical man has his own opinion. We 
have learned from the Japanese to glue small pieces of metal to- 
gether with euphorbia juice. This disappears in heating and the 
pieces are united by the enamel. An oven is not necessary for 
repairs, although most useful. For new work it is, however, in- 
dispensable. As early as 1009 the enameler Theophilus recom- 
mended the use of an iron lid, pierced with small holes, sufficient 
to prevent small pieces of coal passing through. The articles to be 
enameled were placed under this and the enamel brought to fusion 
by making a fire around and above it. Johannes Pritzlaff recom- 
mends a better method of procedure. Take, says he, in default ot 
an oven two pieces of charcoal, and hollow them out like cruci- 
bles. When they are quite clean put the thing to be enkmeled in 
one or an iron-wire stand, and invert the other so as to form a 
lid. Then heat the whole strongly until the enamel is melted. Oil 
blowpipes should not be used for enameling on account of the 
soot. Spirit lamps or Bunsen gas lamps should always be cm- 
ployed. The flame passes round the muffle several times, 
and raises its temperature very rapidly. When the wet en- 
amel powder is laid on it is distributed evenly by gently tapping 
the back of the metal. The superfluous water is then soaked up 
with a clean cloth. The first burning shrinks the enamel, and 
more must be added, and a second fusion carried out It is then 
polished with emery, again melted, and finally polished with 
great care with tripoli. 



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THOMAS JACOB, Editor and Publisher. 



Address all Communications to The Jewelers Review, 
170 AND 17a Broadway, Cor. Maiden Lane, New York. 



Vol. XXXII 



APRIL 19, 1899 



No. 16 



NOTICE 

In answer to the many letters received at this office^ and to save tm- 
necessary corre^oodence and delay, we wish to state that this paper 
lus no connection whatever with J. J* Fogerty or with Focfcrty's 
Jewelers Directory. 



The Jewelers Review is issued regularly every week and will put forth 
every effort to furnish the best and latest news and information concerning 
jewelers, gold and silversmiths, horologists, opticians and allied industries. 
Persons interested in these trades will confer a great favor by sending us 
the news of their localities and their views respecting the manufacture or 
treatment of any articles in the above lines. It is absolutely necessary 
that the name and address of the writer should accompany each communi- 
cation, not necessarily for publication but as a guarantee of good faith. 

Correspondents asking questions requiring answers through the col- 
umns of the Jewelers Review will state the information desired plainly 
and in as few words as poss ible. All answers will be published as promptly 
as the nature of the enquiry and the pressure of business will permit. Read- 
ers need have no hesitancy in asking questions on any subject in which they 
are interested consistent with the nature of this publication. 



SUBSCRIPTION RATES 

Two Dollars per annum in advance. One Dollar for six months, postage 
prepaid to any point in the United States, Mexico or Canada. Single 
copies ten cents each. 

Poreiga 5abscriptloiis.— To countries within the postal union, postage pre- 
paid. Three Dollars and Fifty Cents per annum in advance. 

Subscribers changing their address should state the old one as well as the 
new to insure proper delivery of the paper. 



THE JEWELERS REVIEV ABROAD 

Copies of this i>aper can be found in Europe at Holborn Viaduct and the 
Royal Hotels, London. Herald office and hotels L'Athenee and Grand 
Terminus, Paris. The Amstel Hotel, Amsterdam, St. Antoine and the 
Continental Hotels, Antwerp. 



ADVERTISING RATES 

will be furnished on application. Under the new management j 
the circulation of The Jewelers Review has steadily increased 
until it practically covers the entire jewelry and allied trades. ' 
Advertisers will find that there is no better medium to reach the ! 
trade than The Jewelers Review. 

Advertisements to insure insertion in the next issue should 
reach this oflficc not later than Saturday. 

COMMUNICATIONS SOUCITED 

Space will always be reserved in the Jewelers Review for news i.ems ofl 
interest to the trade, such as changes in place of business, co-partnerships, f 
dissolutions and the movements of traveling representatives and buyers. 

Jewelers contemplating a trip to New York can have their mail ad- 1 
dressed to this office, where it will be held until called for, or forwarded | 
to any other address if desired. 



I ConsoUdstlon 
Rnmors 



A persistent rumor started in the trade re- 
cently in regard to a proposed combination of 
watch case and watch movement manufact- 
urers, and which found its way into the daily 
press, turns out, upon investigation, to have 
little else back of it than the unsubstantiated statements of certain 
promoters. All parties interested whose names were in any way 
connected with the movement strenuously denied all knowledge 
of the aflfair; certainly no one could be found who signified any 
intention of joining such an association. 

The business of promoter has now come to be recognized as a 
regular profession. Formerly when keen competition and other 
circumstances rendered a consolidation of interests des-irable, the 
principal members of the trade affected came together of their 
own accord and selected their own promoter. Now the situ- 
ation is entirely changed. It is the promoter who selects the 
trade, who, having made a choice of a certain industry, endeavors 
to bring the conflicting interests together and engineers the deal 
through for a consideration. Promoters appear to have been 
kept reasonably busy of late, which accounts for the number of 
rumors that have been floated. 

The interests involved in the watch case and watch movement 
manufactures would aggregate a great many millions, and such 
a deal is not likely to be rushed through with undue haste. 



There are many reasons for and against the 
Auction Sales holding of an auction sale. For some classes 
*.' for of the iewelry trade it would never be a wise 

Jewelers thing to attempt. Those of our readers who 

do what is called an "exclusive" business 
would without doubt frighten their customers by indulging in 
anything of the kind, but such businesses are few and far between. 
In the general run of business, however, an auction sale comes a-> 
a healthy stimulus. However careful one may be, odd goods 
are sure to accumulate. A traveling man calls and a line of 
goods is bought. Perhaps the bulk of the goods are sold, but 
some are sure to be left over, and, new goods coming in, they are 
apt to be put aside and in many cases overlooked. An auction 
sale clears all this up. It naturally involves a thoroug'h over- 
hauling of stock; and if a first-class auctioneer is employed, goods 
which have perhaps passed out of the immediate season's fashion 
often bring a surprisingly good price. All things considered, an 
auction sale once in a while should be a healthy feature. Old 
goods are turned into cash, which, in its turn, can be turned into 
new goods, while such a sale, if properly conducted, should form 
the best kind of advertisement. A great deal, of course, de- 
pends on the auctioneer. His qualifications are many. He must 
have a thorough knowledge of the goods, a fine tact, a persua- 
sive manner, and. above all, must impress his audience with the 
thorough honesty of his business methods. 



The circulation of 

THE JEWELERS^ REVIEW 

FOR ISSUE OF APRIL J2 was 10,072 COPIES 

^ ' 9,903 

Tiie average weekly circulation 
DURING MARCH WAS - 10,0/20 COPIES 
*' FEBRUARY** 10,021 '' 

Our post office and otiier receipts are open to the inspection of 
those who desire to verify tliii statement* 



Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



488 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 19, 1899 



SC3BNTinC AND INDUSTRIAL 

Our object under this head it not to deal with Sdentiflc nuittera in an ab- 
•tract or theoretical way, bat to giro inch particulars of Sdentiflc facts as may 
be capable of adaptation to practical indnstrial uses. We shall point oat, too, 
new derelopments and improrements in Scientiflc matters which will be osefal 
to the craftsman and manafactarer, while the Industrial side of this department 
will inclode notices of new tools, machinery and appliances. At aU times we 
shall welcome commanications from oar readers who may have suggestions to 
offer on this head. 

THE POROINO OP STEEL 

Steel is forged, is welded like iron under the hammer of the 
smith; it acts like iron under the trip-hammer of great factories, 
in the rolling mill, in the screw-cutting works. Yet there are 
some restrictions. Heated to a very elaborate temperature, steel 
is susceptible to change under various influences; especially its 
carbon may be burned out. The bar of steel submitted to the fire 
is exposed to the action of the oxygen from the current of the 
blast-pipe, and may thus undergo a kind of refining, of irregular 
decarbonization, a change more or less thorough, but difficult 
to avoid. 

The working of steel is, therefore, a much more delicate 
operation than that of iro«, and requires more skill and care. 
An incompetent workman may, in a single "heat," spoil the best 
steel and make a tool void of strength, incapable of taking an 
edge and of no use. 

Numerous heatings will always change the qualities of steel. 
Too high a temperature weakens it rapidly. The skillful artisan 
will understand working t4ie metal at a medium temperature, and 
by sure, accurate blows of the hammer, finish a piece with a small 
number of heatings. 

Steel may be added to itself or to iron, at a white heat under 
the hammer. But all steels do not possess this valuable property. 
Steels of excellent quality in themselves weld very imperfectly. 
The finer grades are changed by the necessary hea* so that they 
cannot be used for this purpose. 

In general, cast-steel will not weld with iron. Steel can be 



welded on itself to combine several pieces in a single mass, or to 
join parts of the same piece, as, for example, where the extremi- 
ties of a bar have been bent to form a ring. 

The operation of soldering steel to iron has a distinct pur- 
pose. Where there is no occasion for hardness except in certain 
parts of an object, these parts can be made of steel and the re- 
mainder of simple iron. Such are the jtools of which the point 
or the edge alone are formed of steel welded to the iron, which 
constitutes the body, as the pick of the miner, his drill, his 
"pointerolle" (small pick), the hammer of the stone cutter and the 
spade of the laborer. This is done rather for the sake of econo- 
my. Formerly steel was so costly that it was used as sparingly 
as possible. 

If you examine the chisel, the gouge, the plane of the carpen- 
ter, you will notice that these tools are made of a thin plate of 
steel so doubled over a plate of iron that the steel always comes 
in contact with the stone that forms the edge. The lining of iron, 
not so hard, but less brittle, sustains the tool and imparts more 
power of resistance. Most cutting tools and instruments are thus 
constituted. 

It thus appears how valuable is the property of steel to weld 
readily and solidly to iron. The net price of steel having *now 
been considerably reduced, in consequence of the new processes 
of manufacture, there is a general tendency to replace with mas- 
sive tools of cast-steel those heretofore made by folding the steel 
over the iron. 

In large modern foundries steel, which is produced in large 
masses by new methods, is treated precisely like iron. It is 
forged in pieces, opened out under the steam hammer, or drawn 
out in the rolling mills in bars, flat or round, in rails, in plates, 
thick or thin. We have seen an ingot of Bessemer metal, on 
being run through the mold, pass under the trip-hammer and 
come from the rolling mill as an unwelded steel rail. 

Steel is to-day forged into the large forms formerly com- 
posed of iron. The forging of these enormous nuasses is destined 
for the most gigantic engines of metallurgy. 



UP TO STANDARD 



Says the United States Assay Office 



JO8. LINZ db BRO., 
Wholesale Jewelers. 



THE FOLLOWING CORRESPONDENCE EXPLAINS ITSELF: 



Dallas, Texas, March 25th, 1899. 



A. WALLACH & CO., 

39 MAiDkN Lane, New York. 

D^ar Sirs : At the time we received your invoice of goods, our representative happened to return from his 
trip. He stated, while on his travels he had met several parties handling chains, and while discussing different 
manufacturers, your name was mentioned, stating that the quality of your goods was not plump. In justice to you 
and tosatisfy ourselves, we concluded to send one of the chains of your make to the United States Assay OflBce at 
St. Lou is. We herewith enclose you their reply, and must confess that the quality is satisfactory in every way. 

We herewith return you the old chain. No. 333, weight 10 dwt. and 5 grains, and should you feel disposed to 
excbang:e it for another and credit our account with $2.00. for assay, we will appreciate it. 

Kindly retiu-n their letter, as we wish to use it in the event the parties claim otherwise. 

We remain. Yours very truly, JOS. LINZ & BRO., 

Per S. L. 



THE UNITED STATES ASSAY OFFICE AT ST. LOUIS, 
Office of the assayer in Charge. 



March 23d, 1899. 



Messrs. JOS. LINZ & BRO., 

Dallas, Texas. 

Gentlemen : I have assayed the chain marked No. 333, weight 10 dwt., 5 grains, using, according to your 
instructions, part of the bar, swivel and links, and avoiding as nearly as I was able to do it, the solder, and the result 
is as follows: Gold, 409/1000 or 9 81/100. Silver, 226/1000 or 5 42/100. 



Charges $2.00, Paid. 



Respectfully yours, 



JOHN BOYLE, Jr., 

Assayer tn Charge, 



A. WALLACH & CO. 

makeri of 60M €bdiil$ jwd BrdCeleff 37 & 39 Maiden Lane, New York 

Digitized by VjOO^IC 



April 19, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 





Jan<izy¥G^/ic^:^ v^ 



^^ He wrote his name where all Nations should behold it, and 
where all time should not efface it/^ 





WE ENGRAVE HIS NAME ON A PERFECT AMERICAN WATCH 

Where all Nations may behold it« aad %vliere all time caaaot efface it. 



Cbc Dueberf)dinpdcn (Uatcb (Uorks 

CANTON, OHIO 

THB FINEST AND ONLY COMPLETE WATCH PLANT IN THE WORLD 
The Best Watch Cases. The Best Watch Movements 

Digitized by VjOOQ IC 



490 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 19, 1899 




This department is devoted to practical and theoretical articles relating to 
the science and study of optics, and will be sustained by able writers on this 
subject. Uhder this head will be published full reports of meetings of the 
several optical societies, as weU as all news of interest to opticians, toeether 
with copies of lectures and other papers relating to optics. 

Subscribers are invited to send questions on matters on which they desire 
information. These will be answered through our columns ^ which are also 
open for the ventilation oj all phases oj Optical opinion. 

Communications Should be Addressed Optical Department. 
The Jewelers Review, 170 A 172 Broadway, New York. 

L. L. FERGUSON. Editor. 



Vol. XXXII. 



APRIL 19, 1899. 



No. 16. 



The following letter from E. C. Perry, of 
Minneapolis, is one of many enquiries we have 
lately received from correspondents request- 
ing information as to the best method of start- 
ing an optical society: 

Minnesota, March 25, 1899. 



Optical 
Organization 



Dear Editor— We are trying to orjfanize an optical association for our 
mutual benefit, and. to make it stronger, to embrace the States of Minnescta, 
North Dakota, South Dakota and Montana. 

But we find it hard to get at enouxh opticians, as we have only a list 
kindly given us by Mr. Hoffman, the wholesale optician. I therefore take 
the liberty to ask your help in loaning us a list of opticians or giving a 
notice in your valuable journal asking all opticians interebted to send me 
their names and addre&ses I find this not an easy matter to start such a 
society going, but the few I have so far interested have promised me very 
substantial assistance in many ways, and 1 now think, with your assistance, 
we should make good progress 

Any suggestions you or any of your readers may ofTer as to h*- w we can 
get at it the best and quickest and make the best succe s will be greatly 
apprec ated by. Yours truly, 

E C Perry, 
c/o C. A. Hoffman, 521 Niccolet av , Minneapolis, Minn. 

There are at present no less than a dozen healthy, lusty optical 
organizations throughout the nation, extending from Boston to 
California, and there presents no difl'iculty in forming another in 
the Northwest States, which if, when organized, keeps apace with 
the other developments of that section, should soon equal if not 
outstrip older organizations in the East. 

There are, of course, a few difficulties that will have to be 
met with in the forming of such a society, but none that are in- 
superable. There are two methods which are open to their judg- 
ment and espousal. The first is to thoroughly canvass the pros- 
pective territory by means of both the optical press and the mail- 
ing of circulars, prospectuses, etc., and the other is to start a so- 
ciety composed principally of local opticians, and if its conj^titu- 
tion be sufficiently broad, and its meetings be made entertaining 
and instructive, around a small nucleus will grow a society not 
only numerically great, but what is more to be desired, of intel- 
lectual weightiness, from which it naturally follows the society 
would perforce have a higher standing amongst kindred scientific 
bodies which exist in that locality. 

There are two elemental features which go to make up a sci- 
entific society's existence, first of which is that its memher^ ^^" 
tend for the knowledge that is to be imbibed; secondly / rid ^^' 
most equally as great), to be a member of a scientific t, tV ^^ 



repute or renown feeds one's self-approbativeness. x,^' it is 



K 



Or 



the easiest thing imaginable to start a society. Naturally at its 
inception all sorts of heterogeneity of mind and purpose will be 
present, but to weld them into a state of cohesion and unity of 
purpose is not so easy. It is the general history of events, op- 
tical and otherwise, that that which is evolved spontaneously 
sputters, burns bright, next fitful and then expires. If a society 
is started on the whoop la! principle the attendance will be \trs 
enthusing the first time, exhilarating the second meeting and de- 
cidedly enervating the third, it not lapsing into a state of coma 
altogether. 

Furthermore, a business man before launching out in a busi- 
ness undertaking mentally weighs all the pros and cons germane 
to the enterprise, therefore the promoters of an optical society 
should do likewise, and therefore be prepared for emergen- 
cies. One, if not two regular lecturers should be engaged to 
give addresses each meeting night upon cognate subjects. The 
practice in vogue among some societies for voluntary contribu- 
tions gives about the same results as voluntary monetary con- 
tributions in a church, rather unreliable and considerably unsat- 
isfactory. So be sure to pay your lecturer, no matter how little. 





1 

1 
1 


1 '^**\^ 


s ' 1 


^^^^Kf '"^'"1^- ^ ''^^^v^s! 


i 





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April 19, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



491 



and each time the society meets, both your lecturer and lecture 
will be on hand; for if, as we have above stated, the matter of lec- 
tures or addresses is left to those that the "spirit moves," you will 
soon find out that what is everybody's business is nobody's busi- 
ness, and, so far as optical cuisine goes, you will depart unfed. 

We give this advice because we bold it to be a self-evident 
truth that an optical society will not hold together without some 
motive to make them coalesce; so surely if the optical end, such 
as lecturing, etc., is not made the primary feature, that society 
perforce ceases to be optical, save possibly in name. 

We infer that Mr. Perry is a refracting optician, for surely 
he is not what is termed a dispensing optician. If he were of 
the latter class organization would not appeal to him very 
strongly, for the cogent reason that in such rankly commercial 
business as the dispenser engages in, there is no necessity for 
scientific disquisitions, although a paper on optical ethics for 
their delectation would not be amiss occasionally. 

In the initial formation of the society, do not attempt 
the impossible by inviting opticians of all shades, such as 
refracting men, mugwumps and dispensers, to sup at the same 
table, but send out a clear-cut clarion call for the class of men 
you are desirous of affiliating with, and class pride and patriot- 
ism will be added incentives for them to "stand together." We 
are familiar with the history of several optical organizations, 
which are all steered successfully in different chann-els. The New 
York State Association of Opticians, which is the oldest optical 
society in existence, has an excellent series of voluntary papers 
by members, ami as an incentive to membership, allows its mem- 
bers the use of the society's seal upon its note paper, and also 
issues a certificate of membership. The Optical Society of the 
State of Pennsylvania, by means of entertainment, has papers read 
by members, and invites outsiders to address them; they have 
subdivided the practice of optometry into several diflFerent grades, 
hold examinations and confer diplomas upon the successful as- 
pirant. The Illinois society is at present engaged in a le^fisla- 
torial scuftle at Springfield, in the endeavor to regulate the prac- 
tice of optometry by legislative enactment, after which they no 
doubt will turn scientificward, as have done their optical pro- 
totypes before them. 

The Optical Society of the State of New York holds but one 
meeting a year, at which scientific papers are read and discussed. 
No other meetings arc deemed necessary, owing to the fact that 
several local societies exi-t in the State that duly provide for the 
optical needs of their members. 

The New England Society meets in Boston monthly and 
very successful meetings are "held. The society also exer- 
cises a tutelary care over a College of Optometry situated in 
Boston, with a course of tuitron extending over a period of two 
years. 

The Optical Society of the City of New York has now been in 
existence not quite two years, starting first with an attendance of 
about seven, barely enough to fill the offices appertaining to a 
society. Monthly lectures are given, one upon physical optics by 
a professor of one of the colleges here, and another lecture on 
practical optometry by another speaker. No examinations are 



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Digitized by VnOOQ iC 



492 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 19, 1899 



necess«iry to become a speaker, and no qualifications are ex- 
pected other than he shall be an optician in good standing. 
From a membership of seven, without solicitation, the society 
now has go upon its rolls, and with an average attendance of over 
40, and it may be stated that the society is as prosperous finan- 
cially as it is numerically. 

The secretaries of the various societies herein mentioned no 
doubt, upon application, will send copies of the by-laws and con- 
stitutions. In conclusion, while not wishing to obtrude our per- 
sonal opinions ad nauseam, we would say — make a small be- 
ginning, and, by natural growth, let your society that is to be, 
unfold itself naturally, without the artificial inflative measures 
that once in a while are used. 



FORKING DISTANCES IN SKIASCOPY 

LECTURE DEUVERED BEFORE THE OPTICAL SOCIETY OF THE CITY OF 

NEW YORK BY L. L. FERGUSON 

(Copyrigkt^ /^, by The Jewelers Review) 

Contlnned from last issue 

Therefore those who persist in using those methods of illu- 
mination should diaphragm the light down so that it would pre- 
sent a circular appearance, and to reduce the intensity of the 
light to a point of toleration, not only should it be diaphragmed, 
but also impose in front of the light (fastened to the shield that 
holds the diaphragm) a piece of ground glass, which will also 
serve to equalize the brilliancy of the flame, thus ensuring a cor- 
rect diagnosis, for whatever inequalities in the reflex are ex- 
hibited now are caused by astigmatism in situ» instead of a simu- 
lated condition caused by the appearance of a coarse flame. 

The size of the light is of enormous importance, although in 
th« light of such latitudinous theories that exist respecting the 
same, the practitioner would be pardoned in assuming that it 
was a matter of no moment. Experience has kd me to believe 
that a large light is immeasurably superior to a small one for the 
folk>wing reasons: 

The act of skiascopy cannot be successfully and quickly per- 
formed unless done so by unconscious cerebration. If the opera- 
tor's brain-action does not .keep pace with his manual control 
of the mirror, but lags behind, inefficiency must be the result. 
Now, then, the smaller the light (to a slight extent) the less bril- 
liant will be the retinal reflex, also the area of illumination as 
viewed through the pupil will occupy but a fraction of the whole 
pupillary area, and in such a manner its movements seem to 
highly exaggerate the corresponding movement of the mirror 
in the hand of the skiascopist; this being so, as before stated, the 
novice is unable to think and to reason simultaneously with the 
mirror movement. 

Furthermore, every student of physical optics knows that 
each infinitesitnally small ray that emanates from a luminous 
source is really an aerial image of the light from whence it was 
expelled. This, then, accounts for the fact that when we view a 
mirror at almost any angle we are able to see thereon the pre- 
sentment of a light situated in front. If such were not the case, 
we would be sensible of the image of the light on the mirror at a 
certain point only, and a movement of the head from one side or 
the other would result in a disappearance of it, therefore the 
surface of the mirror may be said to hold as many images of an 
adjacent light as would be limited by the size of the flame and 
the dimensions of the mirror. Recollecting this fact, it can 
readily be observed that it takes an appreciably longer space of 
time then for the transitation of a larger light over a given sur- 
face than a smaller light would, therefore the slower proportion- 
ally the transition of the light, and the larger the mirror, the more 
liable is our cerebration to keep pace therewith. Furthermore, 
an expert diagnostician judges the amount of refractive error by 




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the appearance and shape of the full fundus reflex, which can only 
be obtained by using a large light, whilst with a small one only 
a small area of the pupil appears to be illuminatedt therefore 
diagnosis is out of the question. It simply devolves down to la- 
boriously measuring the cardinal meridian separately and then 
adjudging the error. 

Now the size of the light will depend upon the distance it is 
removed from the operator. The closer the light is to the op- 
tician the less larger it need be, or the farther away it is sttuated 
the larger it must necessarily be, to compensate for its increasing 
diminution in diameter pursuant to that well known law known as 
"the square of the distance." For instance, two lights situated 
respectively one foot and four feet away, to make one equally 
as large as the other proportionally, the four-foot distance lamp 
would have to be sixteen times greater in area. 

Refractive errors of the eyes are created by what is known as 
aberration, which in time may be defined as a departure from nor- 
mality. Now unquestionably these conditions could be meas- 
ured by any measurable means, i. e., convergent, divergent or 
parallel light. The first, if used, would tend toward diminishing 
the apparent hypermetropia or seemingly increasing the myopia 
present, whilst the use of the latter ray would permk the user to 
discover and diagnose the exact amount uninfluenced by either 
modifying or aggravating influences, according to the nature of 
the error, when convergent or divergent light be used. 

Every scholar in optics knows that light diverges proportion- 
ally greater as we approach it, from twenty feet inwards; so when 
the optician uses a lamp or diaphragmed chimney contiguous to 
his head, as per advertisements, book illustrations, etc., he is 
simply using a light whose proximity alone makes him use highly 
divergent rays; therefore if he is scientific enough to estimate the 
refraction before he imposes a lens, that estimation must neces- 
sarily be incorrect, too great in hypermetropia, instifficient in 
myopia. 

Some operators prefer using a **bulls-eye" light, obtained by 
using what is known as a McKenzie's condenser; and where the 
skiascopist is unable to use a large light, situated say 6, 8 or 10 
feet away, it is a good substitute. The condensing lens, of course, 
magnifies the small-sized flame and tones down its uneven shape 
and coarse texture, which, as before stated, gives a mottled re- 
flex light, and often creates the impression upon the part of the 
optician that he is fitting a case of irregular astigmatism ; the use 
of the condensing lens modifies that appearance and gives a clean, 
even reflex. 

But if the optician will use a light sufficient in diameter to al- 
low it to be used at a distance great enough to insure it being 
sufficiently large for reasons heretofore explained, it will also ex- 
pel parallel rays, which does not require very much erudition 
upon the part of the student to know that a workman's tools 
should be true (parallel) to insure correct work. 

To summarize, the light should be perfectly circular, of even 
texture, as large as possible, at least 3 or 4 inches in diameter, and 
situated from the ametrope, including the angle of reflection of at 
least 10 feet. This can be accomplished by using a 32-candle 
power frosted electric light globe, situating it above and back of 
the ametrope's head, two or three feet above and two feet or more 
backward. This position is furthermore advantageous by reason 
of the fact that the light is off at such an angle from the observed 
eye that none of the direct light from the electric bulb strikes the 
observer's eye during the test, which, if it did, would create what 
is termed diffraction spectra upon the edges of the sight aperture 
of the skiascope, and would be an impediment to the clean obser- 
vation of the reflex in \h • observed eye. 

SECOND SIGHT 

Sometimes per..) •- 'vho have perfect sight in youth, and then 
have been compc' ' I tf* Acar convex glasses for work, find as 
they Kfow old th; • ..< e again able to see near objects with- 

out the aid of gla^ ' ley are often pleased with this and call 

it getting their se ,nt, but it is not a change that is really 

to be desired, fo: not brought about by any regaining of 

the power of ace .i.O'i«.tion, but depends on the eye gfrowing 
near-sighted, so ..int it sees near objects distinctly without the 
use of either the »:cc )nr. ^dation or a convex lens. 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



493 



OPTICAL NOTES 

Prof. Charles N. McCormick, president o-f the McCormick Op- 
tical-College, will address the Illinois Optical Society at its May 
meeting, on the subject, "Education vs. Legislation." Those who 
are familiar with Prof. McCormick's terse ajid outspoken way 
of talking and with his well developed ideas will need no urging 
to attend the meeting. Members of the society have not forgot- 
ten the able contention maintained by him at that meeting, when 
the optical bill was under discussion. 

Drs. Whitehead, Holzberg and Levinson, the committee on 
organization of the California Optical Society of San Francisco, 
report that the organization will be eflFected before another week 
passes. Dr. J. A. Whitehead, of Whitehead & Towers, opticians, 
says none but exclusive refractionists will be eligibJe to member- 
ship. 

Prof, J. H. Caruss. the well known optician, has moved from 
Stamford, Conn., to Hartford, Corai., wh^ere, at 50 Asylum street, 
he reopened an attractive store on the 15th inst. 

The last "snap" offered by the Toric Optical Company, 32 
East Twenty-third street. New York, in gold filled riding bow 
frames, American Optical Company's make, at $6.47 per dozen, 
net cash, has proved so popular that it has been continued for 
another week. Sample frames will be mailed for 60 cents. 



THE CAUFORNIA ASSOCIATION OF OPTICIANS 

The second meeting of this Association, wliich was recently 
inaugurated, was held at the end of last month, and the dis- 
cussion of the constitution arranged at first meeting was, after 
some amendments, adopted. 

Next in order was the nomination and election of a treasure*-. 
Mr. Kuttner nominated W. D. Fennimore, who declined, with 
thanks. W. H. Hunt, of San Jose, was then nominated by Mr. 
Fennimore. Nominations were then closed and Mr. Hunt was 
elected. 

The nomination and election of four members to act in con- 
junction with the other officers and constitute the Board of Di- 
rectors, which are nine in number, was then proceeded with. The 
following were nominated: R. Bruce Magee, of San Jose; Wm. R. 
Johnson, of San Francisco; Charles Wood, of Oakland; B. M. 
Ackley, of San Francisco; O. Granicher, of Los Angeles. Mr. 
Wood declined in favor of Mr. Granicher. Nominations were 
then closed, and Magee, Johnson, Ackley and Granicher were 
duly elected. 

Mr. Fennimore made a motion that W. Reed Williams, of the 
** Keystone," be extended a vote of thanks for the kindness he has 
displayed, both in direct assistance and writings in his journal for 
the new-born California Association of Opticians; also that Mr. 
Williams, of the "Keystone;'* Mr. Frederick Bog^r, of the "Op- 
tical Journal," and Mr. Ferguson, of the "Jewelers Review," be 
elected honorary members. The motion was carried by acclama 
tion and with great enthusiasm. 

The meeting then adjourned until next meeting, the time and 
place for which is to be determined by the Board oif Directors. 

The Board of Directors held a meeting March 28, 1899, at one 
o'clock P. M. A quorum was present, consisting of F. C. Chinn, 
president; I. A. Beretta, second vice-president; G. S. Schneider, 
secrrtary; R. Bruce Magee, of San Jose, and B. M. Ackley, of 
San Francisco. 

The secretary was then authorized to print by-laws as adopted 
and attach names and addresses of charter members. He was 
also authorized to print stationery, etc. 

It was unanimously agreed to have the next meeting of the 
Association on the evening of the third Monday of July, 1899, in 
San Francisco. This being all of importance, the meeting ad- 
journed. 

MEETING OF THE OPTICAL SOCIETY 

The regular monthly meeting of the Optical Society of the 
City of New York was held at the Savoy Hotel, Wednesday 
evening, April 12, The report of the committee appointed to 
arrange for the banquet to be given on June 28th at the Marl- 
borough Hotel was received, and after considerable discussion 
it . was . moved and seconded that the committee be granted 



plenary powers in regard to those who should be invited and 
those who should not. A. M. Frankel, of New York, was elected 
a member of the Society. The following applications for mem- 
bership were received: Thos. McBurnie, 188 Court street, 
Brooklyn; Thos. Yoxall, 1144 Third avenue. New York city; 
August Kost, Jr., 650 Newark avenue, Jersey City, and W. L. 
Stanton, Tottenville, S. I. 



,>\\\vx\v^\sv^v^^v^^v^v^^xcy^^xVvV^^v^^^^VvV^v^^^ 




OUR MOTTO— 

' Honest Goods and Honest Dealings*^ 



ROSENBAUM & ADLER 
-Diamonds 




75 and 77 NASSAU STREET 



MKR BOXn, LIATHEM NOVELTIIt, CARD OAttt, 
KN AND Pm FAM, tAMFLB OAMM, CTO. 



NEW YORK 



REMOVED 



from 38 MAIDEN LANE to 

61 NASSAU ST. 



s.&s.DRuiFF,!!irr."! 

Headquarters for 
AM. OPT. CO. and BAU3CH & LOMB WARE5 

R VORK A SPECIALTY 

M NORTHERN ILLINOIS COLLEGE 

: OF : 

OPHTHALMOLOGY AND OTOLOGY, 

MASONIC TEMPLE, CHICAGO, 

Have issued an attractive Announcement with fnll description of Attend- 
ant. Post-Qraduate, and Correspoadcnt Courses, which will he mailed on 
application. 

TOO can befl[ln your coarao at any tlnio. Degrees conferred and Diplo- 
mas awarded. Address 

G. W. McFATRICH. M.D., Sccretasy, 

1015 MASONIC TEMPLE, CHICAQO 




EYES 




YOUR 



CiRES ALL EVE DISEASES. 
MFlAnED EYES,8CALjE8 ON UOI 

GRANULATION ETC. 
By NMll, 60 ctntt. 



Optical Department 

is not complete without 

«M MURINE. «M 

Send for circulars and tes- 
timonials. Yonr Jobber has 
Murine, if not, order direct. 
•3. SO per Doxon. 

An Up-to-Datb Rbmkdy. 

MURINB CO., MaMBtc Temple, CMcaso. 



/ 



AND MANUFACTURERS OP 

DIAMOND JEWELRY 
& MOUNTINGS. 

65 Nassau St., N. Y, 

NOVELTIES A SPECIALTY. 

ZELL£R, WOLF & BRO. 

HANIIPACTURIRS ANO MPOSTBaS OP 

Fine Velvety PIusli^Morocco Guses ^ 

FOR JEWELRY AND SILVERWARE 
Trays of f very Dsscriiitioa lor Tr o vo l er s * Coses, Sliow 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 19, 1899 



CERAB9ICS 

Under this head special attention win be given to pottery, tolc-a-brac and 
porcelain, which now form an important part of the jeweler's trade. Fine 
prodncts of the potter's art hare always been priced by the select few but 
recently the popular taste has caused a demand for these goods which has 
encouraged artists of recognized ability in their production, as new wares are 
constantly appearing, especially in foreign countries. 
CERAMIC NOTES 

Some very handsome flower vases, in the showy ruby and 
emerald flashed cut glass, are being shown by the J. D. Ber^jen 
Co., 38 Murray street, N. Y. The cutting on these colored 
goods, showing the brilliant crystal beneath the colored surface, 
must always be of a high order, since ever so slight a slip on the 
part of an inexperienced workman would irremediably destroy 
the design in the colored glass. 

BBLLBBK MANUFACTURE IN AMERICA 

{Continued) 

"Placing" or "packing" and "firing" a kiln are very important, 
although apparently simple processes, for on the watchfulness 
and experience of the fireman depends much of the success of the 
potter. The ware to be burned is placed for protection and con- 
venience in fire-clay boxes, called "seggars" or "saggars," in 
which it rests on sand or flint, many shapes requiring regular 
beds of this material. A strip or "wad" of moist clay is then 
laid around the edge of the seggar and it is placed in the kiln close 
to the side, another seggar is set on the first, atid so on to the 
crown of the kiln, each of these upright tiers being called a 
"bung." The "wads" are to further protect the ware from the 
fumes and smoke and to steady the "bung." A^^en the kiln is 
full, the door is bricked up and plastered over with clay, and the 
fire started. 

The kiln is a bee-hive-shaped structure of red brick, lined with 
fire-brick, and generally about sixteen feet in diameter inside and 
about the same height to the "crown." Above this crown or 
ceiling the walls narrow as they go upward. The brick 
wails of the kiln are bound by heavy iron hoops or 
girdles to give greater strength. Around the base at equal dis- 
tances are the fire holes, eight or more in number, communicat- 
ing with the interior by openings above and below. The length 
of time required for a biscuit fire varies according to the body 
and composition of the ware, from twenty-four to a hundred 
hours. 

When the kiln has cooled and the ware, no^v "biscuit," is re- 
moved, a transformation has taken place; the friable, clay-colored 
articles are now beautifully white, firm, translucid pieces of porce- 
lain; that is, unless one of those frequent and mysterious misfor- 
tunes, which constantly assail the poor potter, has distorted and 
discolored a portion of them. 

The biscuit now goes to the biscuit-ware room, where it is 
carefully selected; each separate piece is rubbed with sand stone, 
polished with sand-paper and brushed until i. Is nerfectly smooth 
and absolutely free from dust; it is then ready for the dipping- 
room. The glaze or glass-forming compound is prepared with 
great care. Most of the ingredients, in due proportion, are first 
melted together, forming a "fritt," which is finely ground and 
mixed with the other necessary materials. All are now ground 
together in water until the mass forms a heavy, creamy liquid; 
into this solution the dipper plunges the piece of ware, giving it a 
skillful shake and turn to distribute the coating evenly and avoid 
a superfluity. It is tlien set on the "rack" to dry, and carefully 
guarded from dust and foreign substances. When dry, the ware 
has its second burning in the glost kiln — a fire of lesser heat (for 
soft porcelain) than the biscuit fire. Placing the glost kiln is 2V» 
work of even more care than the biscuit requires. Each seggar 
must be "washed" with a special glaze, pieces must not touch one 
another or the sides of the seggar. Flat pieces are set on fire- 
clay "pins." Stilts are also used to keep certain articles apart. 
The arrangements in "bungs" is the same as before, and the de- 
gree of heat required is tested by means of small clay rings caviled 
"trials," put through little openings made for that purpose if* ^^^ 
kiln walls. Through other small openings, called "sdv hn\^^** 
the interior of the kiln may be seen when the fire is at \yL. i^e^t, 
glowing with such incandescence that an ordinary ob* r^^' 

not distinguish any tangible object therein. When ^^ nt- 



rienced fireman is satisfied with tfie condition of things inside, the 
warm work of "drawing" the kiln begins; the glowing coals arc 
raked out of the fire holes and the hose is turned on. After ihc 
kiln has cooled, and the seggars aire opened, the ware is critically 
examined and the perfect results of these various processes are 
stored in their "bins" in the "white-ware room." The imperfect 
results — always too many in spite of every care and caution — are 
ruthlessly broken. Any purchaser inclined to complain of high 
prices should visit the mound of "potsherds" outside every pot- 
tery, mute witness to the wide range of disaster in this industry. 
{To be continued) 



QUERIES AND TRADE NOTES 

In this department will appear answers to aU conespondenoe and queries 
tbat are of general interest and miscenaneons items aai oommnvts on matters 
in connection with the trade. 

The Dueber Watch Case Mfg. Co., at Canton, Ohio, arc 
closing out their stock of high grade wheels at $30 each. This is 
a rare chance for any one to get a wheel at prdbsMy less than 
cost of manufacture, and also the best made bicycle in America. 

Simon Adler, of Rosenbaum & Adler, 65 Nassau street, 
New York City, has just returned from a five weeks' East- 
ern trip. Mr. Adler expressed himself as very much grati- 
fied with the results of his trip. "Dealers seemed especially 
pleased to find that goods of the class suc4i as I oflFered 
them could be obtained at fair, or I miglit even say, moderate 
prices," said he. "We have novelties now in preparation also 
which I think will be received fully as favorably as the beetle and 
the frog have been." 

CANADIAN NEWS. 

PKOM OUR 8PSC1AI. CORKBSPONDBMTS. 

TORONTO 

The number of visitors attending the Horse Show held in 
Toronto on the 13th, 14th and 15th, proved a source of revenue 
to the k)cal jewelers. 

Walter J. Barr, of the Goldsmith Stock Company, who under- 
went a serious operation three weeks ago, is progressing favor- 
ably* and will be able to resume his work this week. 

Jacob Dover, of Nelson, B. C, was married, March 15th, to 
Miss Arenson, of Montreal; they are remaining in Toronto until 
the 2 1st of April, when they leave for home, via Chicago. 
Buyers in Toronto this week were: 

J. S. Barnard, Whitby; W. R. Jackson. St. Thomas; W. A. 
Sanderson, Peterboro; A. Gibson, Peterboro; Mr. Robertson, of 
Bramley &. Robertson, Montreal. 

Messrs. B. & H. B. Kent are building a two-story addition 
to the back of their premises (40 x 24), 144 Yonge street, Toronto. 

Toronto City Council are now asking for new tenders for the 
clock installation in the new city hall. 



Headquarters for American Tarqaoisc 

after Monday of next week^ will be in the Andefson 
Bldg^ \2 to \6 John St, New York. 

J. G. DOTY, AGT. The Am. Turq. Co. 

Now at (A Jolm Sbeet 



SEAMLESS WIRE ^ 
' AU.atactar«db7 IN ALL SIZES AND QUAUnES 



s.^"" 



EDWARD N. COOK. 

©olt anb »(Iv<r IRoUcD pUtc. ''Bluminnm Softer." 

144 PINE STREET. PROVIDENCB, R. L 



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April ift 1899 



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495 



®bituati^ 



The deaidi is announced of W. C Yuill, a jeweler, of Truro, 
N. S. 

A. D. Miller, Lyons, N. Y., for many years the leading travel- 
ing representative of the Pairpoint Silver Plate Co., of New 
Bedford, Mass., is dead. 

Edwin Rowland Warrington, late of the metal brokerage firm 
of E. R. Warrington & Co., who died on April 9th, was buried 
last week at All Saints burying ground, Torresdale, Pa. 

Dr. Jas. B. Gibson, one of the leading oculists of the country, 
and formerly senior surgeon of the Manhattan Eye and Ear 
Hospital in this city, is dead. 

John D. Sperry, the well-known jeweler and watchmaker, of 



South Haven, Mich., is dead. He was employed at an early age 
by the Waltham Watch Company, and he wtas there at one time 
given the difficult work of arranging a watch set with diamonds 
especially made for a European exposition. This was valued at 
$18,000 and was sent to Europe in charge of Mr. Sperry. After 
that he was employed two and one-ihalf years by the Elgin Na- 
tional Watch Company. In May, 1867, he went from that po- 
sition to open up a business for himself at South Haven. Al- 
though partially paralyzed for the past eleven years, he had been 
able to keep at his work most of the time. He was nearly seventy 
years old. 

Dr. Jas. B. Gibson, of New York, a leading oculist 
and formerly senior surgeon of the Manhattan Eye and Ear 
Hospital in this city, is dead. 

Jacob A. Suits, formerly a jeweler, at Dowagtac, Mich., is 
dead. 



The Straus American Cut Glass 



An extensive variety of pieces 
designed specially for presenta- 
tion purposes. 




Moderate Prices. 



REIONS SUPREME 
in quality of ciystal, 
workmanship and 
brilliant finish. 



For the convenience of the 
trade, we have also prepared as- 
sortments at $50, $75 and $100. 
Illustrations of these may be had 
on application. 



L. STRAUS & SONS, Manufacturers, | 

42 to 46 Warren Street^ New York* 1 



FACTORY: 

B9th StTMt and Nortli RIvm*, 

New York. 



««««Hm«Mi««««««««Hm««««««««««««««««ffmnM««««M^ 



FOR JUNE WEDDINGS. 



^^^^ 




Seod for Cahiogu^ Eiectroc fumiiited for AiyttOdng, 



38 Murray St 
NEW YORK 




FOREMOST LINE OF 

AMERICAN CUT GLASS. 

Color Perfect* Beauty of Design and Brilliancy 
of Finish Unquestionable. 

New and Beatfttful Shapes. Tfie Dealer who handles ''BERGEN"^ CUT GLASS caa deiy competition, because quality of 

Goods and Prices are right* 

M J7CJi 1A.N r A I rLNdrL ^ This is a hijjrh-glaze Jill POttCfy in beautiful blendings of dull Green, 

^'^ ^^1**— ♦ Mauve, and Brown. Each piece distinctive, no two alike ; Free Hand 

Decorations by eminent artists, in slight relief, great variety in shapes, which are original creations or modifications of the Mediaeval. 

CN Cii^ to $|HCi4lly tdipM 1W UK K^ttil JCfDCkr^ in that i*-'^*^ decorative in the highest degree and possesses strong sell- 
ing powers. Prices for the different pieces vary from 50 cants to $100, according to shape, size and decoration. 

J. B. OWENS POrTERY CO., Main Office aiid Pottery, ZANESVILLE, 0. 



Nsw Yecfc 



W. IL MINN, 68-70 West Mfmiwmy. 



BACCARAT GLASSWARE 

(Cristalleries de Baccarat, France). 

T»^1Lk. Gilt^ Engraved and Cut SUlMVPArC 

in many UNIQUE and HANDSOME DESIGNS, specially adapted for Retail Jewelers. 

Lar^ variety of CUT GLASS PIECES for Silv^smiths. 
Itow Yerfc Oflfee^ 41 Worrwi Street. PAUL DURAND, Meeeoer. 



SPECIALTIES IN - 
Dessert Plates. Ttob wa eane Sets, eups aM 
Saucers, JIrt Pieces, €tc, €tc 

IN FINE OHINA. 
DAVISON BROS., Shew Rooms, 12 Barclay St., New York. 



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496 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 19, 1899 



The Late Charles F. Livermore. — In the death, on the nth, 
of C. F. Livermore, Western manager of the Middletown Plate 
Co., not only his associates, but Chicago jewelers and the trade 
throughout the country are heavy losers. Especially endeared 
to those whose fortune it was to know him intimately, he was 
held in the highest esteem by all in any way associated with him. 
Born of New England parentage, in New York City, in the fall 
of 1868, his early life was spent in the East. While he was still 
young, however, his father died, and his mother with two chil- 
dren, a younger sister and himself, went to Chicago to make 
their home. Two years later, at fourteen, he began his business 
career in the Chicago office of the New Haven Clock Company, 
of which Col. G. A. Harmount was then manager. His rise there 
was remarkably rapid, and at the age of sixteen or seventeen he 
was sent out as a traveling salesman. For several years the West- 




THE late CHARLES FREDERICK LIVERMORE. 

ern office of the New Haven Clock Company represented the 
Middletown Plate Company, and when in 1892 the latter es- 
tablished an independent offiqe in Chicago, Mr. Livermore was 
given its management. Since then he has become more and more 
valuable to the company. As evidence of the esteem in which he 
was held, we quote Col. G. H. Hulbert, president of the Middle- 
town Plate Company, who came on from the East especially for 
the funeral: "Mr. Livermore," he said, "was a young man of 
remarkable energy and very popular; he devoted himself to the 
interests of this company, and was untiring in his efforts on our 
behalf." Thomas H. B. Davis, vice-president of the company, 
also expressed his sense of the loss very feelingly. For about a 
year past Mr. Livermore had been troubled with diabetes, but he 
had notwithstanding kept steadily at his work; indeed, up to two 
weeks ago he continued on the road. It was therefore with great 
surprise that Mr. Davis, early last week, while in St. Louis, re- 
ceived word of his critical illness. In 1896 Mr. Livermore was 
married to Miss I. E. T. Harrison, daughter of Dr. and AffS. J- 
.\f. Harrison, then of Philadelphia, and but three months d,0 ^ 
boy was born to them. Funeral services were held at fu Sec- 
ond Presbyterian Church, last Friday, at 2 o'clock, by r\^ ^ J. 
McPherson, pastor of the church, and by fellow Knigh^ .J^* ^' 1^^* 



of Mr. Livermore in Apollo Commandery, No. i, Dearborn 
Lodge 310. Charles Lester, local manager for the New Haven 
Clock Company, and the New England Watch Company, was 
one of the six Knights Templar who acted as pall-bearers. A 
man better liked, personally, or more respected for his business 
ability, than Charles Frederick Livermore would be difficult to 
find. 

Eli Westcott Bailey, formerly a prominent jeweler of this city, 
and one of the widely known merchants of an earlier generation, 
died on Monday night, March 27, at his residence, 21 15 Spruce 
street, Philadelphia, from general debility. Mr. Bailey was 91 
years old and was born in Bloomsburg. Sullivan county, N. Y., 
in 1809. For many years he was actively identified with the jew- 
elry business, and was one of the founders of the firm of Bailey, 
Banks & Biddle Co., of Philadelphia. 

Americus Lancaster, for more than 60 years a widely-known 
jeweler of Philadelphia, died at his home, 2127 Columbia avenue, 
at the advanced age of 92 years. 

Thomas W. McCully, who for 15 years was manager of the 
German Silver Rolling Mill of Samuel Croft, at Glenwood, Phil- 
adelphia, died at the home of his daughter, Mrs. Ellen Lees, 
North Thirty-second street, Philadelphia, on Monday, March 
27th, in his 79th year. He was buried with Masonic rites on 
Thursday in the Roman Catholic cemetery of St. Dennis, in 
Delaware County. 

PAOnC AND ROOCY MOUNTAIN NEWS. 

PKOM OUK tnCIAL COKKBtrOMDBm. 

Tbt Mwt ^isiAm tUt hMdlBC ^ nodTOd from thoM 8tatM borterinc m 
tte PaeUto ahA extandiaf inland to tha Eotky Kowitaina. Tnde. news and 
eoRMpond«nM from oar nadon it alwaya wtftoomo and thovld Iw locetrad at 
this oOoo not Utar than Monday monins in oacb week. 
SAN FRANCISCO 

Recently the store of Mr. Andrews, a jeweler, of Vallejo, Cal., 
was robbed to ihe extent of $700. The occupants of the next 
house, Chris Rush and two men, known as Nick and Cassino, 
have been arrested for the crime. 

W. E. Graves, formerly coast agent for the Pairpoint Manu- 
facturing Company, is now re-located at 220 Sutter street as man- 
ufacturers' agent. He is now successfully introducing to the 
coast trade the two Attlcboro lines of Franjc M. Whiting & Co. 
and of Watson & Newell; also the goods of the Rockford Silver 
V^late Company. 

Mrs. Jennie B. Tennent is here awaitinjj the result of an of- 
ficial search for a jeweler named M. H. Rome, alias George B. 
Barlowe, the two having recently arrived, according to report, 
from Salt Lake City, where they were engaged in the trade. A, 
warrant has l>cen issued for the man, who a/pparently has de- 
serted the woman, in which the latter specifies the jewelry tliat 
it is alleged he stole from her. 

The Seth Thomas Clock Company, of New York, have 
closed their San Francisco agency, and on April ist they issued a 
circular letter to this eflFect; and C. H. Brake, one of their repre- 
sentatives, has been in the city attending to the necessary ar- 
rangements. 

BUTTE. MONT. 

A Model Western Store. — It is but little more than a de- 
cade since what is now the flourishing city of Butte was a rough 
mining camp. As an indication of the way in which it has sprung 
into the position of an important business center we may instance 
the fine store of J. H. Leyson, which has recently been redecor- 
ated. Mr. Leyson is a watchmaker and jeweler and dealer in op- 
tical goods at 221 Upper Main St. The store front is bronze and 
plate glass with panel work of variegated Vermont marble. The 
insides of the windows are of plate glass and white and gold 
woodwork, while the exteriors and show cases are cherry wood. 
All the cases are lighted by electric light, the Fink reflector be- 
ing used. The jewelry manufacturing department is furnished * 
with electric motive power, with turning and polishing lathes 
and rolls, and in fact, every modem convenience. 



From two to three millions carats of diamonds are turned out 
of the Kimberley mines in a year, and as five million carats go 
to the ton, this represents half a ton of diamonds. 



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April 19, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



497 



IMIDDLE ATLANTIC STATE NEWS. 

VKOM ODX SnKlAIf COM fOWDIITl. 



^bd«r this Wifliiif will be iouiA WMk hj week Bulaeii Hewt, latereet- 
iMg aai Mefol perMoal Items fram the States et Hew Toik,' Hew Jersey, 
PeiiBsytT«BiA, lUiylAnd, DelAware eai the TlrfliiUs. We shell be gUid to 
leeetre from oor readers for Insertloii in this oolimuk, notices of remoral and 
bnsiiiees ehangea of an kind. Sneh notee should reach as not later than 
Monday moraine in eaeh week. 

NBW YORK 
The members oi the committee appointed by the Merchants' 
Association to investigate the alleged delays in the appraisement 
of imports in the Appraiser's department are making considera- 
ble progress. Collector Bidwell is doing all in his power to as- 
sist the committee. G. W. J. Angell, the secretary of the com- 
mittee, stated Friday that many letters had been received ap- 
proving of the work that has been done and that as a result of the 
work there was already an improvement in the service connected 
with fhe Appraiser's stores. 

N. Rosenberg, dealer in jewelery and watches, will remove 
from 138 to 30 East Broadway. 

Henry Berlovitz, formerly of the diamond department of Sie- 
gel-Cooper Co., has formed a partnership with John W. Taylor, 
of Newburgh, N. Y., where they will open a jewelry store about 
May IS*. 

Vincenzo Grosso, an Italian jeweler, of 2212 Second avenue, 
was arrested last week charged by Vincenzo Tasta, of 265 Leon- 
ard street, Brooklyn, with retaining $20 worth of jewelry which 
he had taken for repairs. 

The Goldbeaters* Protective Union, numbering 200 men, are 
on strike because the Goldleaf Manufacturers' Association de- 
clined to grant their petition for an increase of wages. Twenty- 
three firms are affected. 

Chinese calbinet objects of jade, crystal, amethyst, agate, am- 
ber and porcelain, brought at their sale by auction in the Ameri- 
can Art Galleries, last week, $3,911.50. 

M. Strauss, the Brooklyn jeweler, sailed Tuesday last on the 
steamer Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse to make a tour through 
Europe. He will visit Amsterdam and Antwerp to purchase dia- 
monds and other gems, and also Switzerland, where he will pur- 
chase watches. 

At the regular monthly meeting of the Jewelers* Board of 
Trade, held at the rooms of the Association, 54 Maiden Lane, 
on April 13, the following firms were unanimously elected mem- 
bers of the Board; Jas. Allan & Co., Charleston, S. C, and S. & 
S. Druiff, New York City. 

John H. Ackerman, a jeweler, at 150 Nassau street, has been 
arrested on complaint of Anthony Comstock, who charges him 
with violation of the lottery law in offering watches to be drawn 
for every week by clubs. 

A. W. Koenig and M. Strauss, jewelers, formerly at 66 Maiden 
Lane, have removed to room 507, Gill Building, 9-13 Maiden 
Lane. 

Wm. H. Heathcote, dealer in diamonds, watches and jewelry, 
has removed from 679 Broadway to iii Fulton street. 

Mr. Mazet's bill to prevent frauds in auction sales by per- 
mitting the State agent, appointed by the State Comptroller, to 
demand information from auctioneers as to the identity and resi- 
dence of purchasers, and, in case of the discovery of fraud, to re- 
voke the license of the auctioneer, was passed in the Assembly, 
April 13. 

The special committee of the Merchants* Association, known 



as the Committee on Imports and Appraisement, has sent out a 
circular to 1,425 importers in Brooklyn and New York asking for 
certain information necessary for the use of the committee in 
pursuance of its investigation of the conditions in the Appraiser's 
office relative to the delays in the passage of goods through the 
Public Stores. 

Jos. Friedlander & Bro. will remove their optical department 
from its present quarters at 18 Maiden Lane to their store, 8 
Maiden Lane. 

The stocks of the American Smelting and Refining Company, 
which was incorporated on April 4th, are now ready for delivery, 
and holders of the subscription receipts may exchange them for 
the stock of the company by presenting the receipts at the office 
of the Manhattan Trust Company. Both the common and pre- 
ferred stock, it is said, will be placed in the unlisted department of 
the Stock Exchange some time during the week. 

It is definitely understood that ex- Representative Fischer, of 
New York, is to be appointed on the Board of General Apprais- 
ers at New York, for which place he was indorsed by the New 
York delegation and many business men in New York City. 

Exports of gold and silver from this port to all countries for 
last week aggregate $944,697 silver bars and coin and $33,688 
gold, a total of $978,385, against a total of $1,386,582 gold and 
silver in the same week last year. Since Jan. ist the exports of 
gold were $16,101,551, and silver $14,600,050, against $4,415,821 
gold and $12,558,893 silver in the corresponding period last year. 

The building located at 87 Frankfort street was badly damaged 
by fire on Sunday last. The Aitken & Lambert Jewelry Company, 
which occupied the top floor for factory purposes, suffered a loss 
of about $3,000 on tools and stock. 

Simpson, Hall, Miller & Co., silversmiths, have removed from 
36 East 14th street, to the offices of the International Silver Co., 
in the Gill Building. 

The regular monthly meeting of the Executive Committee of 
the Jewelers' Security Alliance was held on Friday, April 14th, 
the following members being present: Chairman Butts, Presi- 
dent Bowden, Vice-President Untermeyer, Treasurer Karsch, 
Secretary Noyes, and Messrs. Abbott, Sloan and Ball of the 
committee. The following new members were admitted: 

J. M. Jenks & Co., Lancaster, Pa.; Pritty & Bonaffon, Phila- 
delphia, Pa.: Heacock & Freer, San Francisco, Cal.; Daniel 
Rhemauer, New York Qty; L. Gutmann & Son, Cincinnati, O., 
Mawhinney & Holliday, Omaha, Neb.: W. H. Appel, Allentown, 
Pa.; William Arnold, Ann Arbor, Mich.; Garibaldi & B'-uns, 
Charlotte, N. C; Will H. Homuth, Bloomington, 111.: A. J. Win- 
ters & Co., Paris, Ky.; Geo. W. Ray, East Boston, Mass.; R. V. 
Hurd & Co., New York City; Pennsylvania Optical Company, 
Reading, Pa.; Geo. F. Putnam, Eaton Rapids, Mich.; E. Schert- 
7iger, Mahanoy City, Pa.; T. G. Timpane, Cohoes, N. Y.; Isaac 
Joseph, Amsterdam, N. Y.; G. A. Lockwood & Son, Chariton, 
la.; Edward R. Mason, Binghamton, N. Y.; Bentley Jewelry 
Company, Boston, Mass.; W. C. Birkenbeuel, La Salle, 111.; M. 
A. Goldman, Walla Walla, Wash.: Hesse & Sturgis, Boise City, 
Idaho; Reichstein & Zehman, Springfield, 111. 

Plainville Stock Company, manufacturing jewelers, and J. M. 
Fisher & Brother, have removed from 176 Brofeidway to Room 
13, Gill Building. 

The American Turquoise Company have engaged offices at 14 
John street. They will occupy their new quarters next week. 

E. Bloom, d^er in diamond papers, has removed from 66 
Maiden Lane to 13 Maiden Lane. 

J. D. Warren & Co., successors to W. C. Hutchins & Co., will 
remove from 176 Broadway to the Gill Building, about May i. 



The 



Mercantile National Bank 



OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK, 

BROADWAY AND DEY STREET, 

Solicits Accounts from the Jewelry Trade, 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 19^ 1899 



s 



TERN BROS. & CO. 



CUTT ERS A ND 
IMPORTERS OF 



DIAMONDS 



Cuttiaz Worktt 140-146 Wot f4«fi Stacet 
London OfOcet 29 Ely Place 



Comet John and Nassau Streets 
NEW YORK 



The Wm. F. Doll Co., 13 Maiden Lane, presented to each 
member of the officers and crew of the "Raleigh" one of their 
Dewey souvenir pins. The pins are made of the steel from the 
battleship "Maine" and have the date of the sinking of the war- 
ship, the date of the return of the "Raleigh" and an impression in 
relief of Admiral Dewey. 

Of the 20,000 dishes and the 3,000 glasses used at the Jeffer- 
sonian $1.00 dinner in New York last week, scarcely a half dozen 
were broken. Over 8,000 pieces of new silver, in addition to 4,000 
pieces that had already seen service, were ordered specially for 
the dinner. 

John R. Woods & Sons, 23 Maiden Lane, have removed from 
the second to the fouith floor. 

The commission recently appointed to examine into the 
workings of the office of the Appraiser of Merchandise at New 
York, is in the city and has begun its examination. The com- 
mission is comprised of Messrs. Whitehead, Mayer and Parker. 

Two men went into the jewelry store of Marcus & Co., 857 
Broadway, at noon on Saturday and asked to see some diamond 
earrings. A pair worth $275 was selected and one of the men 
tendered a draft for $425.31 in payment, saying they would call 
later for the change and earrings, as he supposed the firm would 
like to satisfy itself that the draft was genuine. The firm was sus- 
picious that something was wrong and notified the police, who 
telephoned to tlie bank. There it was learned that the draft was 
genuine but that it had been stolen at Buffalo. Detectives were 
sent to the store, and when the men returned they were arrested 
and taken to police headquarters. The purchaser of the ear- 
rings said his name was Albert E. Bell, of London, Can., and his 
companion gave the name and address of Frank H. Smith, Chi- 
cago. When searched several drafts and checks on up-State 
banks and a trunk check were found. This trunk was obtained 
from the baggage room and was found to contain the full uni- 
form of a letter carrier, several registered letters, which had been 
rifled, and checks and drafts to the amount of $10,000. It was 
further learned that the men had stolen a mail pouch at Buffalo 
on April 7fh, and the articles found in their possession were a 
part of the plunder secured. 

Arvid Lingvall, a jeweler, of Brooklyn, has executed a bill 
of sale to his wife, Maria A. Lingvall. 

A. Hollinger, dealer in watches and jewelry, at 1215 Third 
avenue, will remove May ist to a larger store directly opposite. 
H. Zimmern, of Zimmern, Reese & Co., 13 Maiden Lane, has 
engaged passage for Europe. 

Owing to improvements to be made in the property located 
at 375 Grand street, Mrs. M. Weinstein will be forced to move 
her jewelry store. 

S. Frankel, of Jos. Frankel's Sons, 68 Nassau street, has post- 
poned his European trip. 

S. Konovitz, importer of diamonds and watches, 14 Maiden 
Lane, is seeking new quarters. 

The annual convention of Credit Men's Associations will be 
held in Buffalo, N. Y, June 6, 7 and 8. 

Metzar & Loeb are now located at room 37, 39 Maiden Lane. 

Henry Fera, importer of diamonds, 65 Nassau street h^s ^^' 
turned from Europe. 

N. I. Durlach, of Durladi Bros., left Tuesday for 5 1 '«e96 
trip through the East %^ 



S. Zernisky, 381 Grand street, will remove May ist to the 
corner of Ludlow and Grand streets. 

The New Haven Clock Co. is rushed with orders for watches 
and small clocks, and about one-half of the employes will have 
to work overtime all summer. The company has contracted to 
turn out 1,700 watches daily, and in order to do so will have to 
employ their fuill quota of hands and run four hours a day over- 
time. 

The Manuf.\cturers' Association. — The fifth anntial report 
of ttiis association has just been presented by the directors, and 
shows it to be in an exceedingly prosperous condition. The re- 
port gives interesting statistics as to the national finances, pay- 
ment of pensions, expenditure for river and harbor improve- 
ments, construction of new ships for the navy, etc. "It is," the 
report says in conclusion, "indeed satisfactory to note the un- 
precedented prosperity of and the stupendous influx of wealth 
into the United States, which is evidenced by the following facts: 
In the production of gold, copper, pig iron, coal and iron ore 
the year 1898 is without a parallel, and it breaks all records for 
bank clearings, railroad earnings, per capita circulation of money, 
exports of breadstuffs, produce, merchandise and manufactured 
goods." 

PHILADBLPHIA 

James Barry, secretary of the Jewelers' Club, of this city, has 
resigned his position as bookkeeper for the L. A. Scherr Co, 
726 Chestnut street, on account of ill health. 

Edward Magee, a notorious burglar, known to old time trav- 
eling men as the proprietor of the faro bank at Fifth and Locust 
streets in the 6o's, died on Saturday in the Eastern Penitentiary, 
where he was serving a term for the robbery of Albert Abra- 
ham's optical goods store in December, 1897. 

The big clock in the City Hall tower stopped last week for 
the third time since last New Year's day, w4ien it was started 
The trouble began on Thursday afternoon, when the hands on 
the south dial gradually began to lose time, until they were a 
half hour behind. The clock was then stopped for 35 minutes 
and the hamds readjusted. W. O. Steel, who represents the 
manufacturers of the clock — a Milwaukee firm — said the inac- 
curacy was caused by the heat of the sun expanding the metal 
rods which form part of the driving mechanism directly behind 
the affected dial Ice and sleet were the causes of the clock's 
stoppage before, but the atmospherical changes are now sup- 
posed to be overcome. The clock is guaranteed for one year. 

Three pairs of opera glasses were stolen from the establish- 
ment of Springmann Brothers on the second Boor of 722 Chest- 
nut street during a slight fire on the first of this month. Through 
the aid of detectives they were located in pawnshops last week. 
From a description furnished by the pawnbrokers, Qaude Paxon, 
28 years old, of Seventeenth and Tioga streets, was arrested on a 
warrant sworn out by one of the firm, charging him with the 
theft. Paxon is a clerk in the United States Express Company's 
office on the first floor of the building, and was among those who 
rushed upstairs to help extinguish the flames. He was held in 
$500 bail. 

A young man was arrested last week while trying to sdl a 
handsome diamond to a dealer. He claimed to have found it, 
and stuck to his story when arraigned before the magistrate. 
He was held in his own recognizance while the stone was advcr- 



Digitized by 



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April 19, 1809 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



499 



tiled. On Saturday three different persons claimed it, but as they 
could give no accurate description, it was turned over to the 
finder with instructions to keep it for a while. The stone is 
about three carats in weight, almost perfect in a blue white color, 
and was appraised at $200 by an expert. 

Six hundred dollars* worth of cutlery and plated ware was 
stolen from the hardware store of Roger P. Miller, 135 Market 
, jii»eet, Saturday morning. Entrance was effected fhrough a trap 
door in the roof. 

Great interest is centered in a collection of precious stones 
and 4mndsome jewelry now being exhibited in the jewelry de- 
partment of Wanamaker's. The collection is worth nearly 
$1,000,000, and includes every latest caprice of fashion. The dis- 
play is termed the "Bride's Exhibit," by Mr. Sackett, who has 
charge of the department, and taken altogether is one of the 
finest displays of jewelry ever made in this city. Among other 
stones of equal merit is one of 354 carats, without a flaw, valued 
at $6,000; alongside of it is a pigeon blood ruby of a trifle less 
than three carats, for which $1,900 is asked. Cabochon sap- 
phires and rubies, crowns surrounded with diamonds and pink 
pearls, are also in evidence. One of the most interesting and 
valuable of the collection is a facsimile of the necklace worn by 
Queen Wilhelmina at her coronation. The clasp is a serpent 
wrought in gold, mounted with diamonds and olivines. 



TRENTON 

W. W. Bowles, of Monmouth street, assistant superintendent 
at the watch factory, is seriously ill. 

Jeweler A. F. Williams, of East State street, has just installed 
an eighteen-foot silver»are case in his store, which adds greatly 
to the appearance of his already well equipped place of business. 

The Mercantile Protective Association has been recently 
formed for the purpose, among other things, of identifying trav- 
eling salesmen. Those connected with the organization are 
Oliver F. Berry, Edward S. Hull, Jr., and William M. Deen. 



ALBANY, N. Y. 

Assemblyman McMillan's bill relative to the employment of 
women and children in polishing and buffing passed the Senate 
last week. Article 6 of chapter 415 of the laws of 1897 are 
amended by adding to the end thereof a new section to read as 
follows: "No male child under the age of eighteen nor any female 
shall be employed in any factory in this State in operating or 
using any emery, corundum, stone or other polishing or buffing 
wheel. The owner, agent or lessee of a factory who employs any 
such person in the performance of such work is guilty of a mis- 
demeanor and upon conviction thereof shall be fined the sum 
of fifty dollars for each such violation. The factory inspector, 
his assistant and deputies shall enforce the provision of this 
section." 

William Kennedy, a jeweler, of this city, was robbed of two 
watches, four chains and several charms last week by a bold 
thief who introduced himself as coming from an old friend of the 
jeweler and was left to examine the stock in the store as he 
pleased. The goods stolen were valued at $200. The thief was 
captured and gave his name as John Shea. 

At an auction sale of unclaimed packages held by the Na- 
tional Express Company, a handsome gold watch securely packed 
in a small box was sold for twenty-five cents. 



AT THE HOTELS. 

Raooit AzrinOt an potted daily in tlM otBce of " Tbe Jewelen Serlew,'' 
whftr^ th» "bnJlgttnn call M liiip^<YtM Hv nemherA nt ♦»•• trade. 

U. H. Burritt, of New Britain, at Aulic House; J. H. Hollis- 
ter, of Greenfield, at Grand; F. A. Hubbard, of Springfield, at 
Broadway Central; O. Schwab, of Atlanta, at Imperial; A. J. 
Vian, of Springfield, at Broadway Central; J. Sheafer, of Pitts- 
burg, at Westminster; W. C. Putts, of Baltimore, at Albert; I. W. 
McGarry, jewelry buyer for Porteous & Mitchell, of Norwich, 
at 55 Wythe street; L. L. Phillips, jewelry buyer for B. F. Lar- 
rabee & Co., of Boston, at Vendome; H. A. Deming, of Hartford, 
at Plaza; C. M. Ward, of Boston, at Manhattan; H. A. Ockel, of 
Providence, at Grand Union; F. N. Tompkins, of Hamilton, N. 
Y., at St. Cloud; W. B. Glidden, of San Francisco, at Imperial: 
F. B. Fay, of Worcester, Mass., at Grand Union; J. B. Mayer, of 

Buffalo, lat Hoffman; J. Kay, of Detroit, at Imperial, 



HERB AND THERE 

Some few weeks ago we i>rinted an item to the effect that 
H. A. Mondschcin, a jeweler, of Blackfoot, Idaho, had been con- 
fined to an insane asylum. We are very glad to say this was only 
partially true. Recent authentic information is to the effect 
that, while Mr. Mondschein has been suffering from a mental 
trouble which has necessitated treatment at a hospital, he has so 
far recovered that for ten months back he has been able to work 
and carry on business with his customers. He hopes to be at 
his old stand again in a very short time, an expectation everyone 
will be glad to see realized. 

J. C. Armstrong, a jeweler, of Ottawa, Kas., has purchased 
real estate valued at $300. 

F. Nelson, a well-known jeweler, of Denver, Col., has sus- 
tained a severe fire loss. 

T. J. Mitchell, a jeweler, of Missouri City, Mo., has sold real 
estate valued at $275. 

A. H. Alnutt, a jeweler, of Trenton, Mo., is thinning out his 
stock with an auction sale. 

D. C. Jaccard, the well-known St. Louis jeweler, has been vis- 
iting Kansas City relatives for a week. 

W. Calvet, who is engaged in the jewelry businiess in Wash- 
ington, Kas., has made preparations for a long vacation, and will 
start the first of next week to visit Paris. France. 

The E. N. Welch Company, of Bristol, Conn., has about de- 
cided on plans for a new movement department building, to be 
200 feet long and 40 feet wide. The motive power will be elec- 
tricity. : • ' 

A blaze in the window of Alston & Ral ford's jewelry store in 
Birmingham, Ala., for a time threatened the whole building and 
destroyed about $800 worth of display goods. 

The will of the late William K. Vanderslice, jeweler, of San 
Francisco, was filed for probate on March 30th. The estate con- 
sists of real and personal property and stock in the corporation of 
W. K. Vanderslice & Co. 

Garfield Doane, of Carson City, while on a surveying party, 
located a topaz mine. He had some of the gems polished and 
sent to experts for examination. If found to be of correct water 
the discovery will prove very valuable. 

The residence of G. D. Sch"l, a jeweler, of Weyanwega, Wis., 
was destroyed by fire last week. 

Samuel Sundin, formerly with M. H. Smith, Providence, 
R. I., has accepted a position with Hermann A. Ockel, 85 Wey- 
bosset street. 

The E. N. Welch Clock Company, of Bristol, Conn., has 
made arrangements with the William F. Gilbert Qock Com- 
pany, of Winsted, to furnish 60,000 eight-day clock movements. 

A circular has been issued by the Wisconsin Central Railroad 
Company, ordering all its employees to carry watches desig- 
nated among American movements as 17 jewel, steel case, ad- 
justed to heat and cold, and that the variations are not to exceed 
30 seconds a week. 

W. D. Foster, of Mayfield, Ky., has been burnt out. He was 
insured for $1,000. 

L. P. Sturtevant, Barneyville, Mass, is building an addition to 
his works. 

Alterations are being made in Brunncr's jewelry store, East 
Rutherford, N. J. 

The assay office and laboratory of Henry Schnietzel, Lead, 
S. Dak., was destroyed by fire last week. 

Fire destroyed about $100 worth of stock in the jewelry store 
of F. K. Reed, Cadillac, Mich., last week. 

La Estrella Del Norte, a firm of French jewelers, lost $300,- 
000 worth of property by the destruction of Iloilo by the Fili- 
pinos. 

DEEDS AND MORTGAGES 

A chattel mortgage for $300 has been given by Mrs. R. A. 
Dwight, who has a stock of jewelry in Colorado Springs, Col. 

James R. Feeley and M. A. Kelly, Providence, R. I., have 
given a chattel mortgage to Gertrude Brennan, of Woonsocket, 
on the tools, machinery and paraphernalia in the shop at 95 Pine 
Street, where the firm makes church goods. 



Digi 



8i?38 



GiPogle 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 19, 1S99 



NEW BUSINESS VENTURES 

The Yakatay Gold Mining Company of Chicago, with an au- 
thorized capital of $5,000,000, recently filed articles of incorpora- 
tion with the Secretary of State of West Virginia, asking that a 
charter be granted. 

Alexander & Bock have opened a jewelry store in Ida 
Grove, la. 

H. L. Dahle and O. P. Berg have formed a partnership and 
will engage in the jewelry business at Mount Horeb, Wis. 

C. G. Sydow, who has been with Rovelstad Bros., Elgin, 1.1., 
during the past ter. years, has gone to Rockford, 111., where he 
will open a jcwoh*y store. 

I. Seth Anderson, formerly with the Elgin Watch Co., has 
located in Batavia, 111. He will carry a line of watches and 
jewelry. 

Humphry Bros. & Gilbert Wilmington, Del., have formed a 
parlnersliip and opened an establishment at 722 Shipley street. 
The new firm will carry on the business of gold and silver plating. 



BUSINESS CHANGES 

J. F. Seadore, of Wiedman, Mich., has sold out to J. A. Halli- 
day. 

F. B. Felsenthal, of Brownsville, Tenn., has gone out of busi- 
ness, auctioning oflF his stock. 

George Hermance, of Richmond, 111., has sold out to Fred 
Gleason, of Genoa Junction, 111. 

The firm of Porter & Emmons, at St. Johns, Mich., has been 
dissolved, and the business is now in the name of G. Walter 
Emmons. 

Frank Mossberg. formerly vice president and manager of the 
Mossbcri? & Granville Manufacturing Company, and no'w con- 
ducting a manufacturing novelty business in Providence, has 
purchased the entire s^ock and equipment of the Attleboro Tool 
Company of this town, and will shortly move his entire business 
to this town. 

The firm of James R. Feeley & Co., Providence, R. I., has 
been dissolved, Francis P. Boland withdrawing. The business 
will be continued at the old stand by Mr. Feeley and a new part- 
ner. 

The jewelry and pawnbroker firm of Rabinovich & Rapoport, 
Grand Forks, N. Dak., has been dissolved, and Max Rabinovich 
succeeds to the entire business. 

J. S. Reed has sold out the stock of jewelry he has been con- 
ducting in Canton. Mo. 

F. C. Holt has purchased the entire jewelry business of Harry 
Davis, in Trinidad, Col. 

L. E. Miller, until recently engaged in the jewelry business 
in Clearmont, Mo., has sold out all his property in that city and 
moved to Colorado for the benefit of his wife's health. He in- 
tends to open at some Western point. 

T. P. Eastman, of Victoria, Texas, has sold out. 

Julian & Wagner, of Vincennes, Ind., have gone out of busi- 
ness. 

T. C. Parker, jeweler, at Wilkesbarre, Pa., is occupying his 
new quarters at 92 Public Square. 

Floyd Huntingdon has removed from Syracuse to Fulton, N. 
Y., where he has opened a jewelry repair business. 



H. E. Gragg, of Lowell, Ind., has purchased the stock <A F. 
L. Weakly and will continue the business. 

The jewelry and silverware stock of the Mead & Robbins Co., 
924 Chestnut street, Philadelphia, is being sold out at auction to 
close up the retail business. Mr. Herty, the principal owner of 
the concern, will continue in the fine diamond and jewelry busi- 
ness, at 1208 Chestnut street, in Hamilton & Deising«r*s silver- 
ware store, and Alex. Patterson will continue the manufacturing 
in the rear of 924 Chestnut street. 

BUSINESS TROUBLES 

A judgment for $875 has been entered against W. K. Rebert, 
of York, Pa. 

The Bowen & Macomber Company, manufacturing jewelers, 
of Providence, R. I., have assigned. 

J. R. Bartlett, clerk with T. Heineman, counsel for the New 
York creditors of L. A. Scherr & Co., of Philadelphia, has been 
appointed receiver for the company and took charge of affairs on 
Monday. It has not yet been determined whether the business 
will be closed up immediately or be continued under the re- 
ceivership. 

The mortgagee has taken possession of the entire jewelry es- 
tablishment of John Schmitz, in Parsons, Kas. 

S. Beck, the proprietor of fhe S. Beck Jewelry Company, Dal- 
las, Tex., has been sued for a debt of $328.50. 

Charles Roth, a jeweler, of Denver, Col., who recently failed, 
is offering hi3 creditors 25 cents on the dollar. 

J. M. Faehrn»ann, formerly in the jewelry business in Hous- 
ton, Tex., has filed a petition for relief in bankruptcy. The lia- 
bilities are stated to be $5,627.10 and there are no assets. 

Jos. Mayer & Bros., wholesale jewelers, of Seattle, WaJsh., 
have been sued for $125, possession of property and damages. 

An attachment has been issued against the Arizona Copper 
Smelting Co., 32 Broadway, New York, for $3,144 in favor of 
Edward Klinkenfoerg, of Brooklyn, wlio was secretary and treas- 
urer of the company, for money loaned. 

Judgment for $17,752 has been entered against Harry Campe, 
of 7 Lafayette place. New York, in favor of Edward B. La Feira, 
as assignee of Chas. Scale, who did business as Chas. Scale & Co.. 
dealers in diamond jewelry, 929 Broadway, for diamonds which 
Mr. Scale delivered to MMr. Campe in 1892 on memorandum 
for sale. 

About six years ago Granville Wheelberger, who was in the 
jewelry business in Canton, 111., made an assignment to C. H. 
Martin. One of the largest creditors was the wholesale jewelry 
firm of C. H. Knight & Co., Chicago. The stock was sold at 
sheriflF's sale and the proceeds placed in the Lewistown bank, 
which failed. Knight & Co. made a hot legal fight for the pos- 
session of this money, and the case has just been settled. At- 
torneys* fees and court costs have taken the entire amount of 
money, and there is not enough to pay the assignee for his work. 
The creditors get nothing. 

A judgment for $30 has been rendered against E. V. B"*-- 
nett, who conducts a jewelry store in Topeka, Kan. 

In the case of Mrs. Mary F. Reed, of Plainville, against Lin- 
coln, Bacon & Co., the plaintiff has been given $5,760.16, the full 
amount claimed, with interest. 



Ostby & Barton Company, 

Providence, R* L, 

have Removed to their New Factory, 
US RICHMOND STREET, Comer Clifford, 



directly opposite their former location. 



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April 19, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



501 



HAMILTON VATCH Ca PAYS 5 PER CENT* DIVIDE^D 

At a recent meeting of the directors of the Hamilton Watch 
Company, at Lancaster, Pa., a dividend of 5 per cent, was de- 
clared and has since been paid out of its earnings. The share- 
holders have the additional satisfaction of knowing that the direc- 
tors have retained a comfortable sum as a surplus. 

SPECIAL NOTICES 

KatteriBMrtadmdertliUliMdySsoeiitsaUMeMililsm*. Two tniertloiit- 
so oentt a Ub» Mdi ifne. FUmrormavelBMrtioiif, 10 oentt aline mcIi issue. 

8ITUAT10H8 WAHTBD and HBLP WAHTBD adrertlaeiiieiits will be in- 
•sited for one eeat a wwd. Ho aAvertieeneiit vader either of thoee beedinfs 
win be leoeivetf for lese tbaa 15 eeats. Oaali mn 

Su b e aAw n » tmj mm tUt department fiee of ckarge. 



Bi$iim Ovpemiiitlei. 



WRITE FULTON & YEAGLEY, ATTORNEYS. DF.N- 
TON, TEXAS, if you have notes or claims against Texas 
parties that you desire settled or compromised. 

TTTANTED—In ezchaage for good building lot, 50 x 144, 
^^ located in Cedar Springs, Mo., diamond ring or stud. 
Particolars by addressing The Jewelers Review. 



mip (Uaitel 



WANTED — Traveling men to carry Ai side line; samples 
compact and valuable. References required. THE NEW 
ENGLAND SELLING CO., Box 715, New Haven, Conn. 

EXPERIENCED MAN WANTED to take charge of the Gold, 
^^ Jewelry and Stone business of a high-class Importing and 
Retail Jewelry Establishment in New York City. Has 50 years' 
history. Man with some capital preferred. Address E. S. 
AVERY, 67 Wall Street, New York. 



for Uk. 



•pOR SALE OR TO RENT— A fully equipped factory with 
^ modem machinery, electric or steam power, for manufactur- 
ing diamond mountings or any other class of jewelry. Machinery 
with wire and plate rollers reversible. Drop by power ; heavy 
and foot presses ; Re ichhelm blower No. 3 ; d3mamo for electro- 
plating, and motor to run shop. Complete polishing and lapping 
outfit, with exhausters, furnaces, benches for twenty workmen, 
and many other tools, etc.; safe and office fixtures. Will rent 
same at extremely low terms, inclusive electric light, steam heat 
and power. Location center of the trade. For particulars ad- 
dress CHAS. ALTSCHUL, 41 Maiden Lane, New York City. 

■pOR SALE AT A BARGAIN.— The Office Furniture now in 
^ use at our present office — walnut desks, counters, iron grat- 
ings, etc. LUDEKE & POWER, 23 John St , N. Y. City. 

JEWELRY BUSINESS of 14 years' standing in same location in 
a town of 8,000 in Western Maryland ; cheap rent, clean and 
salable stock, plenty bench work, scarcely any opposition ; stock 
and fixtures inventory $1,500 to $1,800. Can reduce stock or sell 
fixtures only. Reason, want to move South. Address at once 
S, care Jewelers Review. 

A JONES REGULATOR, two fine Swiss regulators, one large 
^^ burglar proof safe, one Moseley and one Hopkins lathe, one 
Howard street clock* and all other fixtures of a jewelry store. 
C. ROTH, 813 16th Street, Denver, Colo. 



Co Cet. 



FRONT OFFICE, 18x72, (occupied by the E. Howard Watch 
& Clock Co. for 14 years) ; also smaller offices and rooms for 



Ught manufacturing; rents low. 
43 Maiden Lane, New York. 



KNAPP BUILDING, 41 and 



IMPROVEMENTS, NEW GOODS AND PATENTS 
Under thif head will appear detciiptioiit of aU new prodnctiont In KacUn- 
eiy. Tools, KaaiifactBren' Desiena and Patents, domestic and fbreien, rdatinf 
to the trade. Those interested are reqnested to forward us for pabUcation, 
free of charge, fall descriptions of articles, with photographs or drawings 
whenever possible. 

NEW PATENTS GRANTED 

Compiled weekly by Ewing, Whitman & Ewtng, patent law- 
yers. 41 Wall street. Copies of patents under this head can be 
had from the Patent Office, postage free, at 5 cents per copy. 

623705. Time Recorder. Seward A. Dean, Minneapolis, Minn. Filed Oct- 
11,1897. Serial No. 064; 65. (No model.) 

68S.779. Eyeglasses. Charles £. Norton, Lewiston, Me. Filed Jan. 80, 
1837. Serial No. 6S1850. (No model.) 

682809. Time-Wheel Meohaninm. 6eor«re Smetburst. Maynard, Mass. 
Filed March 14, 1806. Serial No. 078009. (No model.) 

0^40. Scissors. Hufrb Walkinshaw, Lebanon, Mo. Filed March 5, 1898. 
Serial No. 072091. (No model.) 

028782. Prooess of Coating One Metal with Anotlier. etc. Samuel H. 
ThuTHton, Long Branch, N. J. Filed July 2, 1898. Seri^ No. 686078. (No. 
specimens ) 




622071 



023884. Cyclometer Watch. John Davidson, London, England. Filed 
Aug. 17, 1897. Serial No. 048627. (No model.) 

02?007. Winding Indicator for Clocks. Safford G. Button, Hollister. Cal. 
Filed June 18, 1808. Serial No. 088818. (No model.) 



CMD 




6em9 



623058 



Eyeglass Holder. William H. Bailey, Auburn, R. L Filed Feb. 2, 
18P9. Serial No. 704211. (No model.) 

022071 Eyeglass Guard. Sylvester Bastmau, Providence, R. L Filed Feb. 
18, 1897. 'serial No. 021,000. (No model.) 



DESIGNS 




80528 80521 

80528. Pot. Charles J. Ahrenfeldt, New York, N. Y. Filed Jan. 11, 1899. 
Serial No. 70189a Term of patent 3H years. 

80R24. Covered Dish. Charles J. Ahrenfeldt, New York, N. Y. Filed Jan. 
11, 1899. Serial No. 701887. Term of patent 7 years. 




80517 

80525. Covered Dish. CTharles J. Ahrenfeldt, New York, N. Y. Filed Jan. 
11, 1899. Serial No. 701891. Term of patent 3H years. 

80517. Badge. Joseph T. Bailey, Philadelphia, Pa. Filed March 18, 1899. 
Serial No. 708009. Term of patent 14 years. 



TRADB MARK. 

BW.C.CO ' ■ 

82080 

Watohcases. The Fahys Watch Case Company, Sag Harbor, N. Y. 
FUed Feb. 27, 1890. 



Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



502 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 19, 1899 



NEW GOODS* 

UNIQUE DBSI0N8 IN JBWBLRY. 

In a recent issue we gave an illustration and description of 
an extjuishcly designed chatdaine purse, the work of Mr. Annen. 
of Chiclic^>> We are able to give another example of this crafts- 
man's wofk in the form of an artistically designed eyeglass case 



NEW ENGLAND NEWS 



FIOM OUB tPKIAL OOKSBBPOHDBim. 




BBLT BUOKLB, BROOCBB8 ABD PIBS. DB816MBD BY MRS. KLAPP. 

of burnished copper with silver mountings. As we mentioned in 
our previous article, among those who have been most successful 
in Chicago in working up special designs is Mrs. Klapp. Her 
work has been more particularly in planning pins, brooches, 
rings, etc., and the use she makes of precious and semi-precious 
stones shows remarkable art and has won 'her a reputation that 
is national in extent. The examples of this lady's work which 
we are able to show are good illustrations of her originality of 
design and of her use of the semi-precious stones. The central 
figure shows a belt buckle of silver and enamel. Above it is a 
brooch with beautifully modelled grape-leaves in silver, sur- 
rounding an intaglio. In the pin in the upper corner Mrs. Klapp 
has used aqua-marine with gold mounting to good advantage, 









BURNfSHBD OOPPBB BTBOLABS CA8B. DB8IONBD BY MR. AMn^N* 

and in that shown in the opposite left hand corner f- «- vvater, 
irregular-shaped pearls are used. Garnets and other e^> ^^' 

pecially cut, are employed in the pins on either si^^ . ^^^ i^iickle 
and in the other ornaments below. * tl)^ 



\ BAi ptnoaBl Mwt IntwMtliic to tlM tmde from tht BtatwBBto 
thtaborehMdinff wiUbeiouiAlBtlieteofdimBB. We baT» a fpedml bUII of 
oorrMpondtBtt Ib aU tlw important oentan, bat are alwayi clad to leoeiTe 
from oar readers Items of news which they consider of ceneral Intereet to 
members of the trade. Such notes shoald reach this ofBoe on Mo day morniae. 

BOSTON 

D. C. Percival, Jr., has returned from an outing in Southern 
Europe, and the elder Percival, senior partner of the hoase of 
D. C. Percival & Co., sailed April 19th, with Mrs. Percival, from 
Boston on the steamship Canada, for a six weeks' trip to London 
and Paris. 

M. N. Smith, of Smith, Patterson & Co., with his wife, will 
go to Europe in May, for a brief pleasure trip, visiting a number 
of the principal cities and remaining away about eight or ten 
weeks. 

A fine literary and musical programme for the after-dinner 
entertainment of their lady guests has been arranged by the Bos- 
ton Jewelers' Club, and the banquet on Friday evening next, 
April 21, at Hotel Vendome, promises to be an occasion of un- 
surpassed enjoyment in the history of the association. It will be 
the tenth annual event of this character that the club has given 
in honor of the wives and lady friends of the members. 

One of the handsomest street clocks in this city has just been 
placed, in a conspicuous location on Merchants* Row, in front 
of the restaurant of Jones & Marshall. It was made especially 
for presentation, through friends of that firm, by the E. Howard 
Watch and Clock Company. 

Retailers visiting the Boston jobbers the past week were all 
hopeful of continued good business in their localities. Among 
them were: 

L. F. Whitnev. of Clinton, Mass.: E. S. Brooks, of P^faner, 
Mass.: George H. Wood, of Lowell: A. W. Turner, of Willi- 
mantic. Conn.: M. Roberts, of Halloiwell, Me.: J. L. Hicks, of 
Fall River. Mnss.: S. B. Gurney, of Gumey Bros.. Brockton. 
Mass. ; C. W. Cook, of J. H. Washburn Company, Natick. Mass. 



ATTLBBORO 

Last week in the report of the election of officers of the Man- 
ufacturing Jewelers' Salesmen's Association it was stated that 
Fred E. Bellows had been elected treasurer. It was an uninten- 
tional mistake, and the paragraph should have stated that Fred 
E. Bellows was elected second vice-president and Charles Allen 
treasurer. ' 

The service medals to be given by the State of Rhode Island 
to the members of the First Rhode Island Regiment, the two bat- 
teries and to men in other branches of the service who enlisted 
from this State, are now being made by the Gorham Manufact- 
uring Company. The medal will be a neat affair of bronze. It is 
probable that the medals will be given to the men on Memorial 
Day. 

Seymour Bookman, the representative of the New York finan- 
cial men who are trying to combine the interests of the jewelry 
business, was in this city during the past week, but his presence 
was not generally known. It is not thouglit that he held any 
meetings other than a few private ones. The manufacturers are 
generally reluctant to have anything to do with Mr. Bookman's 
scheme. When Mr. Bookman left here over a week ago he stated 
that he would return in about ten days, as the ma ufacturers 
deemed it advisable to hold more meetings. The majority of the 
manufacturers who were at that first meeting now state that they 
had no particular desire to have their views withheld from the 
public, and it looks very much as if the promoters were the most 
desirous of keeping the matter secret. There are probably a 
number of small manufacturers who would like to sell their 
plants, but as the owners would demand cash they are not likely 
to be considered. 

T. E. Bennet has enlarged his business and is now making 
some attractive new finding*. 

Leo A. Heilborn, of the Codding & Heilborn Company; Wm. 
S. Metcalf, of the Plainville Stock Company; G. H. Herrick. of 
G. H. Herrick & Co.; David E. Makepeace, Carl Christensen, of 
the Mossberg Company, have been installed as ofticei's in the 
local lodge of Masons. 



Digitized by 



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April 19, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



505 



Harry P. Kent, of F. W. Weaver & Co., has gone on a busi- 
ness trip to New York. 

Major Everett S. Horton, of Horton, Angell & Co., took a 
prominent part in the quarterly convention of the Bristol County 
G. A. R. Association last week. 

Harold Sweet, of R. F. Simmons & Co., has returnied from 
Philadelphia. 

D. A. White & Co., at present located in the Watson & New- 
ell Building, is seeking to secure quarters in the Robinson Build- 
ing No. I, on the floor formerly occupied by E. P. Claflin. 

Fred A. Newell, of the Watson & Newell Company, has re- 
turned from Florida, where he has been spending the winter for 
his health. 

Last Thursday evening the Y. M. C. A. of this town tendered 
another reception to the members of Co. I, Fifth Massachusetts. 
Major Everett S. Horton, of Horton, Angell & Co., acted as 
master of ceremonies. 

C. O. Sweet, of Regnell, Bigney & Co.; G. A. Dean, of G. A. 
Dean & Co.; E. S. Horton, of Horton, Angell & Co., and John 
Fisher of J. M. Fisher & Co., have been elected directors of the 
Old Cemetery Association of this town. 

The marriage of John L. Thompson, of Remington & Thomp- 
son, the Plainville refiners, and Miss Ethel G. Fisher, daughter 
of A. E. Fisher, of the same place, took place last Wednesday. 

John Rister has been made foreman of the factory of Cutler & 
Granbery. 

The association football season opened in town Saturday with 
a game between the celebrated Watson & Newell team and a 
Pawtucket team. 

The marriage of Winthrop F. Barden, junior partner in ^hc 
firm of Chapman & Barden, of Plainville, manufacturers of solid 
gold jewelry, to Miss K. L. Bronson, of this town, was celebrated 
last Wednesday evening. 

Elton Wbiting, formerly foreman at Cutler & Granbery's, has 
taken a similar position with the Plainville Stock Company. 

Work on David E. Makepeace's new factory is progressing 
rapidly. The engine hotise and the large brick vault of the 
building have been completed. The boiler for the power plant 
arrived last week, and was installed in the engine house. 

A new arrangement has been made by the Bay State Optical 
Company whereby their employees are given Saturday afternoons 
off. The new arrangement is much appreciated by the men. 
Several of the other shops are thinking of adopting the same 
system. 

Sheldon W. W^illiams, manager of the Attleboro Watch Case 
Pendant Company, has been in Boston during the past week. 
He is a delegate to the grand lodge of Pilgrim Fathers from 
Anawan Colony of this town. 

Arthur O. Ostby. of the Ostby & Barton Company, leaves this 



week for the South, where he will spend a few weeks in recre- 
ation. 

A. L. Young, of the firm of Young Bros., box manufacturers, 
has returned from a Southern trip. 

Elton T. Franklin, of E. I. Franklin & Co., ami wife have re- 
turned from an extended Southern trip. 

William E. Richards, bookkeeper of the Bay State Optical 
Company, was pleasantly remembered on leaving the employ of 
the company. Samuel Stone, the head toolmaker, presented 
him, on behalf of the employees of the factory, with an elegant 
set of Emerson's Essays. 

Isaac Sharack, a Boston buyer, was in town several days last 
week and placed orders with many of the kxral houses. 



PROVIDBNCB 

There was to have been a hearing on the Campbell-Metcalf 
Silver Company's petition for relief from insolvency before Lor- 
ing I. Cook, Register in Insolvency, this morning, but it was de- 
cided to continue the hearing one week. 

The suit of the Ostby & Barton Company against William J. 
Coleman, on book account, was heard before the Appellate Di- 
vision of the Supreme Court Monday morning on the plea of the 
defendant to the effect that a suit based on the same matter had 
been brought before the courts in Massachusetts. His attorneys 
argued that as that suit was still pending no action could be com- 
menced in this State. The action in this State was commenced 
some time ago when Coleman happened to be in town. A writ 
of arrest was served on him on the ground that he was about to 
leave the State, it being claimed that previously it was impossible 
to obtain service upon him on property belonging to him. The 
attorney for the Ostby and Barton Company contended that as 
long as the Massachusetts case had not proceeded to judgment, 
the fact that it was pending did not prevent the prosecution of 
a suit in Rhode Island. The case was submitted on briefs and 
the decision of the court will be announced later. 

Saturday evening the committee appointed at the meeting 
of the citizens of East Providence to select a site for the location 
of the building to be used by the jewelry firm of S. J. Weeden & 
Co. met and the desirability of a number of sites was discussed. 
It is probable that the building will be erected on the lot erf a 
gentleman who offers to take the price of the lot in stock of the 
building company. Mr. Weeden has offered to pay 5 per cent, 
of the total amount invested and to maintain the insurance on 
the building. The committee had practically offered to erect the 
building at no cost to Mr. Weeden, and allow him rent free for 
the first year. It is understood that Mr. Weeden will equip the 
building throughout, with the exception of the main shaft, will 
build his own oftice and carding room and also furnish the en- 
gines for the building. 



Jl BMk every OPatdwuiker iDoiM read! 



Cbe Escapements. 



mutinied wtth 20 DUgrams. 66 Pages. 

This book describes the action of escape- 
ments, their action, construction and pro- 
portion. All watch and clock escapements 
thoroughly illustrated and described. 

Price* to Paper Biiidlag* 50c. 
CMk, 75c. 



Will be sent, pottafi^e prepaid, on receipt of 
price, from the office of 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW, 

170 BNMhnty, NET YORK 



•IMllililllltllilllltltllllltllllllllllltllllllillliti 



iiiiiiiiitif)t)iiiMii)fi>ii>iui»*nitiiHiii 



"-n 




I l)otel Jinderson I 

PITTSBURGH, PA. 

5 s 

I Centrally located and easily accessible to | 
I business part of the city. I 

I AMPLB SBCURITY TO I 

i I JBWBLBRS' SAMPLBS. \ 

^1 I 

I American Plan. $3.00 to $5.00 a day. | 

HENRY McKINNIE. 



REMOVED. 



Larger facilities fer deieg flee eoameiiiig 



W. C RANDALL, 

to 159 Pine Stteet, Provi<{ence, R. U 

Opposite tile old namber S58* 

Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



S04 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 19, 1899 



NEWS OF THE LAKE STATES 

FKOM OUK 8PBC1AL COKMBPOMDSim. 

Trade newt anA bnaiiiMS anA pertoiial items from thoee States iMrdciliic 
on tlie Lakes will be found under this head. These States indade Minnesota, 
Wisconsin, Iowa, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois and Ohio. We shall welcome any 
items of general interest from our readers, which shonld reach as not later 
than Monday mominc. 

CHICAOO 

N. B. Rogers, vice-president of C. Rogers & Bros., was in 
town last week. He stopped at the Great Northern Hotel. 

Messrs. W. H. Morse, Potter and Randall, representing east- 
ern firms, were in town last week, stopping at the Brevoort 
House. 

Otto Young is expected back along the first of next month. 

With the change in the City Council due to the recent elec- 
tion, the personnel of the License Committee, in whose hands 
lies the fate of the ordinance recently introduced regulating the 
buying of old gold and silver, has been considerably changed. 
The new committee is composed of the following Aldermen: 
Smulski, Carey, Pike, Boyd, Patterson, McCormick,' Griffith, 
Butler (25th), Blake, Kunz, Butler (27th), Walker, Bos. 

Harry Ketchum, of La Porte, Ind., standing on the rear plat- 
form of a train running through Grand Crossing, last week, was 
seized by highwaymen, who dragged him from the train into 
the railroad yards to a deserted box car. There they took his 
valuables, bound and gagged him, and made off. Ketchum, who 
is 19 years old, succeeded in freeing himself after a time and re- 
ported to the police. He lost $6 in money, a watch valued at $75 
and a plain band ring. 

. The property at 79-85 Wabash avenue, from the first floor of 
which the Ansonia Clock Company are about to move, has re- 
cently been purchased of Mrs. Hetty Green, by Marshall Field. 
The property changed hands for $350,000 cash. Marshall Field 
& Co. will occupy the premises as an extension of their retail 
store. 

The employees of Spaulding & Co. have organized a baseball 
nine which has several games scheduled for the coming season 
with Lyman Berg & Co. and other jewelry houses. The men 
were called out for the first practice game last Sunday. 

Thos. H. B. Davis, vice-president of the Middletown Plate 
Company, was in town last week. He was called here by the 
sudden death of Charles Frederick Livermore, local manager of 
the company. 

Among the buyers in town last week were: 

E. H. Clopper, Polo. 111.: F. C Covell, A. L. Homan, C F. 
Artes & Son, George R. Colby, Bengston, of Freeport, 111.: 



Salmer & Harting, Escanaba, Mich.; Eggerman & Son, Aurora, 
Til.; E. F. Sutton Co., Lake Linden. Mich.; R. E. Brackets, 
Lansing, Mich.; Smyth, Elgin, 111.; A. Unger, St. Louis, Mo.: 
W. L. Stout, Whiting, Ind. 

A young highwayman, last week, relieved Walter Rouse, of 
824 West Twenty-second street, of his watch and a sum of money. 
Rouse says the robber worked like a novice and didn't look 
over 18. 

The American Cutlery Company has moved from Room 402 
in the Masonic Temple to Rooms 707-8 in the same building. 

R. E. Brackett, of Lansing, Mich., was in town last week. 

James A. Todd, manager of the Towle Manufacturing Ccm- 
pany, went East last Friday to visit the factory at Newburyport, 
Mass. 

In the destruction by fire last week of the Eighth Presby- 
terian Church at Washington Boulevard and Robey street, a 
valuable communion service, worth about $1,000, was lost. 

Col. G. H. Hulbert, president of the Middletown Plate Com- 
pany, came to Chicago last week to attend the funeral of C.-F. 
Livermore. Western manager of the company, and also to ar- 
range for his successor. Col. Hulbert stopped at the Victoria 



CINCINNATI 

The new building of tihe John Holland Gold Pen Co. has been 
completed and the company has moved back into the location 
that was destroyed by fire some few months ago. The salesroom 
is more handsome than the one destroyed. The entire structure of 
five floors will be occupied by the concern, as was the old build- 
ing. 

J. Plaut, of A. & J. Plaut, has recovered from an illness of a 
few weeks* duration and is able to attend to business again. 

The design submitted by Dorst & Co. to the Press Commit- 
tee of the Jubilee Saengerfest that is to be held in Cincinnati, 
beginning June 27th, secured the award for the hundreds of 
badges that will be needed for that occasion. The Saengerfest 
will bring 20,000 singers alone to the city from all parts of the 
United States and from Europe. 



COLUMBUS 

The annual opening of the "Hub" occurred last Thursday 
evening. Among the many displays was the handsome window 
of John Schneider's jewelry store, corner Third and Main streets. 

J. C. Goodman, of the firm of Goodman Brothers, has gone 
for a few weeks' visit to Ashville, N. C. 

W. S. Tussing, who for the last three years has been police 
clerk, will in a few days resume his jewelry business. 



9* 
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fu«ui>ct«rtd by F. H. NOBLB & CO., 
103 state Street, Chicago. 

SoM by all Jobbers 



REPAIRING 
AMERICAN 
WATCHES. 

A prize essay on ' «• r'")air 01 all 
kinds of American ^ ..i \.' t; as car- 
ried on by the best it« Lpiakers of 
the present day. 

95c*, post ri^.' I'rora 

THE JEWELERS REVIEW, 

J70 BfOidway, * v York. 



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4 




No. 190. Hunting. No. 194. Open- 
Face. Twenty-three Ruby Jeweled. 



♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦»♦♦♦#<► 




No. 189, Hunting. No. 193. Open- 
Face. Nineteen Ruby Jcwelea. 

♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦»♦»♦♦♦» 




No. 188. Hunting. No. 102. Open- 
Face. Seventeen Ruby Jeweled. 

»#♦»♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦»♦♦♦♦♦ 






Ml- 



No. 187. Hunting. No. loi. Open- 
Face. Fifteen Jeweled. 



♦ ♦»♦♦♦♦♦♦ ♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦ ^ 




No. 196. Hunting. No. 197. Open- 
Face. Seven Jeweled. 



FULL RUBY JEWELED 
ELGIN.... 

Gentlemen's Watch 

NEW (1898) MODEL 





Five Grades, Complete Series 

ALL NICKEL 

HUNTING OR OPEN-FACE 

PENDANT SEniNG 



Always Ask Your Jobber for Elgin Movements 



MANUFACTURED AND GUARANTEED BY THE 



j Elgin National Watcii Co. [ 

New York Office, ► 
II Jolm St. ^ 



General Offices, 
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Factories, 

ELGIN, ILL., U. S. A. 



SEE JOBBERS' LIST FOR PRICES, OR WRITE THE COMPANY. 



Digitized by VjOOQ IC 



506 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 10, i9gg 



The firm of Duhme Bros. & Co. has had on exhibition in the 
window this week all of the cups that are to be awarded as prizes 
at the dog sftiow of the Dog Owners' Protective Association. 
The colllecti<» comprises some of the best cups of the season. 
One of especial beauty that deserves comment is that gotten" up 
by Duhme Bros. & Co. to be given to the best brace of setters. 
The cup is solid and on the side has an enameled figure of the 
famous English setter Gladstcme in white a&d gray, the whole 
forming a most attractive piece. 

F. A. Schweeting, of Oxford, O., was in Cincinnati this week 
for a few days. 

A warrant was issued the other day for the arrest of M. 
Reichenstein, a jeweler, at 6i8 Central avenue, charging him with 
substituting a paste stone for a genuine one. Miss Bessie Shay 
is the complainant. She declares that she left a ring with the 
jeweler to be fixed in which was an emerald. This stone was re- 
moved, according to her story, and a past^ emerald substituted. 
Rf|ichenstein denies the charge in toto. 

The interior of the office and salesroom of Fox Brothers & 
Co., on Fourtlh street, has just been remodeled and refurnished, 
malpng them among the finest of the kind in Cincinnati. 



TOLBDU. 



One of the nlost cleverly planned schemes to hold up a jew- 
elry house was nearly worked successfully on Robert Nelson & 
Co., of this ci^y, on Thursday. The fact that the plaji did not 
work was due to the vigilance of the clerks. It was during the 
noon hour the attempt was made, and tihe robbers knew that part 
of the clerks were at lunch. Four men were in the scheme. 
Oiie interested the clerk by asking to see some spoons. Another 
clerk was busy showing goods to another of the men. The 
third rofbber stood reading a paper and held it at such an angle 
that the clerks could not see the door of the safe. The fourth 
man entered the safe, but was soon spied by a watchful cle»-k, 
who at once gave an alarm. The entire quartette made their es- 
cape. They were pursued and two of them were taken by tb** 
police. 



DBTROIT 

Biut S. Gaylord, for several years a watchmaker in the em- 
ploy of Wright, Kay & Co., has resigned his position and will 
go to Owosso to take charge of the watchmaking department 
ot F. P. Holman. 

A strange story comes from Prescott, Mich. Ang^us Cam- 
eron, a farmer, had a cow which died unaccountably. The ani- 
malt was cut open to determine the cause of death. In its 
stomach was found a hunting case gold watch, stem wind and 
set. The watch was marked No. 951,129, Elgin National Watch 
Co. How the watch got into the cow is a mystery that is so 
far unexplained. Cameron figures that he is ahead on the deal, 
as the cow was only worth $40, and the watch is said to be worth 
considerably more. 

Burglars broke imo JR. D. Baker's jewelry store, 402 Michigan 
avenue, early on the morning of the loth inst, and escaped with 
$56 worth of valuables. 

C. A. Monfbrt, of Utica; Bert Kludt, of Lennox, and W. H. 
Skeman of Wyandotte, were in town this week. 

Louis S. Horlick, one of the jewelers employed at Schaffner's, 
is laid up with pneumonia and is said to be seriously ill. 

Traub Bros. & Co. have purchased the old clock that for the 
past five years has kept time in front of the Grand Trunk ticket 
office. They will place it in front of their uptown store in a few 
days. The clock has seen twenty years' continuous service in 
Detroit, having for years hung in front of the old M. S. Smith 
jewelry store. 

A. F. Toepel, the Gratiot avenue jeweler, is occupying tem- 
porary quarters adjoining his old store, pending the erection of 
a handsome new building. His new store wiH be more complete 
than any on Gratiot avenue. 



HIGH PRICE FOR OLD SILVER 

A Queen Anne silver Monteith bearing the hall mark of 1709 
was sold on the i6th uli, by Debenham, Storr & Sons, at their 
rooms in Co vent Garden, for i2o8, or at the rate of 71s. per ounce; 
a sauce boat and spoon by Paul Lamerie brought 54s. per ounce; 
a Queen Anne mug 51s. peroz., and a taper stick 31s. per oz. 



Page 

At the HottU 4W 

BusineMCbanget. 500 

Canadian Mews. ., 494 

Toronto 494 

Ceramics ... 494 

Belleek Manufacture in America 494 

Ceramics N otes * 494 

Customs ji«v*;l*"V. ^^ 

Reappraisement of Merchandise 507 

Treasury Decision , , 607 

Oeedeand Mongsges • 499 

Diamonds and Other Preeious Stones fi08 

Testing a Diamocd , 506 

State of the Foreign Qem lUrkeU 506 

Editorial vv;--vv: ^ 

Consolidation Ruxpors Unfounded 487 

Auction Sales for JewsiefS 487 

Hamilton Watch Co. pays 5 P«f cf nt dividend 501 

HereandThere 499 

Horological , v "<> 

Management and Cleaning of French 

Clocks 510 

Anne Boleyn's Clock 512 

An Historic Clock. 5W 

Chamber Clocks— Fifteenth Century 519 

Clocks for the House of Kepre»entatives. . 518 

Process of Coloring and Finishing Gold . 518 

Imnrovements^ Mew Goods and Patents 501 

new FatentsGranted.!*..!**.*.'.'.*.'.'.. *.'..*..!'.*.! 501 
Trade Marks 601 

Jewelry Enameling 488 
ewelers in the Cushman Building 409 
Evermore, Charles Frederick. 49tt 

Middle Atlantic ttutes .. 497 

Albany Notes 499 

NewVork Notes 497 

Philadelphia Notes 498 

Trenton Notes 499 

New Business Ventures 500 

NewGoods BW 

Unique Designs in Jewelry 508 

New England News 5^ 

Attleboro 50a 

Boston Notes 5C2 

Providence Notes 608 

News of the Lake SUtes 504 

Cincinnati Notes. 604 

Columbus Notes 504 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 

Page 

Chicago Notes .' 604 

Detroit Notes 506 

News of the Traveling Men 607 

Obituary .' 496 

optics and Opticians 49j 

Optical Organization 490 

working Distances in Skiascopy 492 

The California Association of Opticians . . 493 

Meeting of the Optical Society 498 

Optical Notes 493 

Pacific and Rocky Mountain News 49($ 

Butte, Mont Notes 494 

San h rancisco Notes 496 

Publications Received 488 

Queries and Trade Notes 494 

Rumored Combination of Watch Manufactur- 
ing Trade Denied. 608 

Scientific and Inuustrial 488 

The Forging of Steel 488 

Sercomb« A. L 485 

Southern and Western News 5U7 

Kansas City Notes.. 507 

New Orleans Notes 607 

St. Louis Notes 607 



INDEX TO ADVBRTI5ERS 

Page. 

Anderson Hotel 608 

Amstem Bros. A Co .; . 516 

Baccarat Glassware 495 

Barthman. Wm 610 

Bergen J. D.& Co.... ^.496 

Bowden.J. B 486 

Brown,D. V 491 

Bumham, R 615 

Chester Billings A Son 486 

Clcwer, Henry O 616 

Cook, Edward N 494 

Costigan, D W. A Co 616 

Davison Bros. •• .....495 

Dueber tJatttvton, The Watch Works 489 

Doty. J G*^ 494 

»^-"--*'~^' ' 493 



Druiff,s 'jL'd'.' 

Eaton <s ^* ^«r. 

"^^^to^^^i^^ 



612 



613 



Page 

Hedges, W. S. A Co. 495 

Hirsch.L. 516 

Hirschberg, A. S 51s 

Hraba.L.H 515 

Jurgensen, J........ 668 

Kahn, L. A M., A Co 515 

Kirstein, E. Sons Company 499 

Kohn, Alois A Co 615 

Kramer, H. S 5IS 

belong A Bro 5I6 

LewisACo 481 

Lum, W.H 616 

Madiet, C. G. A Co bl6 

Mercantile National Bank 497 

Mount A Woodhull 4BB 

MunnACo 626 

Murine Co 491 

New England Watch Co 511 

Noble, p. H. & Co SOI 

Northern Illinois College 488 

Oppenheimer Bros. A Veith 516 

Ostby A Barton 519 

Owens. J. B . Pottery Co m 

Passmore, Edwin 619 

Philadelphia Commercial Museum, The 616 

Reichhelm. B. P. A Co 616 

Rosenbaum A Adler 4H 

Schwartz, J. W 518 

Southbridge Optical Company 411 

Smith, Alfred H. A Co m 

Se comb A Sperry Co (M 

Special Notices. 5M 

Spencer Optical Co S16 

Spindler, M A Co 618 

Stern Bros 40 

Straus, L. A Sons 418 

Sumner-Grimes Co 618 

Tannenbaum, L 118 

Toric Optical Company 40 

TowleMfng. Co |»l 

Valfer.S. ACo SM 

Victoria Hotel 614 

Wallach. A. A Co , 486 

Waters JohnA Son 811 

Wilcoxson. G. F 888 

Willson, H. B A Co 881 

Wood, CF. A Co 818 

Worrell A Fahey Ill 

Zeller, Wolf A Bro m 



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SOUTHERN AND ^FESTERN NEWS 

VSOM on 8PBCIAX. COKSBSTOICDBim. 

All tlM m&w with InteroftiBf anA uefol trade notes will be fftren la 
tiMte eoiuniif weekly. Tide heading ooren aU the States Bastwaid of and 
adjodninc the Soeky Mosntaina and all the Southern and Gulf States. We 
•hall heartily welcome any notes from thoee of oar readers who can send as 
prompt infoimatioa of any trade news of general interest. Soch notes shoald 
reach as not later than Monday morning. 

ST. LOUIS 
Theo. Ebeling announces the arrival of a bouncing baby boy 
at his home. 

A. H. Mark is confined to the house with a severe spell of la 
Rrippe. 

Adolph P. Erker was granted letters of administration in the 
Prdbatc Court on the estate of A. A. Erker, deceased. The value 
of the estate was given at $25,000. 

T. Auer, of 909 Olive street, was married to Miss Hannah 
Littmann, daughter of the prominent iron manufacturer, M. 
Littmann, on April 9th. Mr. Auer is engaged in the retail jew- 
elry business in this city and was formerly traveling for the L. 
Bauman Jewelry Co. 

Buyers in the city last week were: J. L. WolflF, Paducah, Ky.: 
C. E. Randall, Litchfield, 111.; John Roark. Winchester, III. 

A. L. Steinmeyer, of the E. Jarrard Jewelry Co., had the honor 
to be elected chairman of th« World's Fair Committee by the 
jewelers of St. Louis. 

Chas. H. Schoen was appointed delegate to the convention of 
the J. P. A., to be held at Springfield, Mo. 



KANSA5 CITY. 



There is a rumor afloat that a large retail jewelry store will 
be opened on Walnut street within the next few months. It is 
understood that the parties who contemplate this move were the 
same who failed to purchase the store of the Streicher Watch 
and Jewelry Company about a year ago. 

The following buyers have been in the market during the 
past week: 

G. W. Ellis, Butler, Mo. ; A. J. Steadley, Carthage, Mo. ; A. L. 
Liggitt, Slater, Mo.; George Young, Kearney, Mo.; C M. Bis- 
hoff, Eudora, Kas.; F. M. Roberts, Cabool, Mo.; J. E. Clemings, 
Harrisonville, Mo.; Louis Megede, o^ Megede Jewelry Com- 
pany, Richmond, Mo.; Fred Essig, Plattsburg, Mo. 

Fxed. J. Scott, a jeweler, of Ottumwa, la., who recently made 
application for bankruptcy proceedings, has been released by the 
court. 

Charles F. Mears, the man who constructed the smallest 
9team engine in the world, and exhibited it at the Trans-Missis- 
sippi Exposition, in Omaha, Neb., last year, securing both a gold 
and silver medal for his trouble, has received a very flattering 
oflfer from the well known jewelry house of Richardson, in El 
Paso, Texas. The steam engine which brought fame to Mr. 
Mears weighs but ten pennyweights and needs but ten drops of 
water to get up steam. 

NBW ORLEANS. 

Leonard Krower, manufacturing jeweler and jewelers' sup- 
plies, left for New York on a business trip. 

The Waltham Watch Company, through the exertions of 
Manager Leonard Krower, chairman of the fair committee of the 
Progressive Union, has secured space for a big display at the 
forthcoming fair. 

A. Yarutzky, the popular bookkeeper and confidential man of 
Leonard Krower, has been re-elected for the seventh time as 
auxiliary president of the Jewish Home. Mr. Yarutzky bears his 
continuous honors meekly. 

A handsome diamond and ruby heart, made to order by M. 
Scooler for Roland Reed, the eminent comedian, has broueht 
L .!. ^^ " '^ '' "^-^nks from Mr. Reed, in which he pays a glow- 
ing tribute to New Oneot^ ^^^^erprise in the jewelry line gen- 
erally and to Mr. Scooler in particular. 

After probably one of the liveliest competitions recordea, il»C 
committee in charge of the presentation of the silver service to 
the cruiser New Orleans announced this morning the award in 
favor of the Gorham Manufacturing Company of Providence. 
This company bid through A. G. Palfrey, representing A. B. 



Griswold & Co., one of the old established houses here. The 
tender was $3,000, being the lowest, comparing style, weight and 
artistic design. The other bidders were among the leading local 
firms. Daniel McGirr, of the Gorham Company, ' looked after 
the interests of his company. The service is what is called a 
buffet set, and consists of a punch bowl, waiter, a ladle, twenty- 
five goblets and two comports. The entire service is to be placed on 
an ebony base; the bowl, waiter and goblets each have a separate 
base on which the inscriptions are to be engraved. Each of the 
two comports has an ebony base of its own. The design of this 
service is of the handsomest character; the weights are massive . 
and the silver is sterling 925-1000 United States assay. The finest 
workmanship in the world, by the way, is being employed in its 
careful construction. The company which is constructing it has 
guaranteed its completion and delivery in New Orleans for the 
15th of May. It is presumed that there will be presented at the 
same time a silver plate engraving of the Maine entering the 
harbor of Havana, execut?ed by D. A. Walter of this city, and the 
silver bell. At any rate, these other two gifts await the cruiser. 



NEWS C^ THE TRAVELING MEN 



ViiaertUthMawes^ra<romwe«ktow9ektlie noriiiieiiti of tlie travtfliaf 
ripratentatiTM «f tlie tiade. Wo than wdoomt aaj mIm tkaj may awd i» 
from tioM to timo of nuittora of intomt. 

Chlcofo.— J. H. White, one of the traveling men in the employ of the Chi- 
cago branch of Simpson, Hall, Miller A Co., has been confined to hit bed lately 
wii h an attack of pneumonia. The crisis has been favorably passed, however, 
and his friends look for bis speedy recovery. It was thought that he might be 
able to take hold again this week. 

Kansas City.— The following traveling men have been calling on the trade 
during the past week : R. H. Stevens, with Mabie. Todd A Bard, New York ; 
F. R. Horton, with Carter, Hastings A Howe. New Tork ; 1. W. Piiedman, New 
York ; M. F. Thornton, with Bdward Todd A Co., New York ; W. F. Adaaa, 
with Simpson, Hall, Miller A Co.. Chicago < fflce; W. C. Barry, with Larter, 
Bloox A Co.. Newark ; H. A. Bliss, with Kromentz A Co., Newark ; O. W. 
Pierce, with Bay State Optical Co., Attleboro ; W. H. Harlbiirt,«ith Providence 
Optical Co , Providence ; R. Corey, with Max Nathan, New York ; H. S. Cobb, 
with Daggett & Clapp. Providence. 

A. L. Sanderson, who travels in the surrounding territory, carrying his 
stock with him, has been in the city stocking up for another trip. 

5t. Louis.— Traveling salesmen in town last week were : Mr. Pierce, of the 
Bay State Optical Co.; Mr. Fordham. of p. & A. Linton : Mr. Hurlburt, of the 
Providence Optical Co.; Jule Franklin, of L. Tanneiibaum & Co., New York; 
F L. Pet tee. Waterlmry Clock Co.; J. W. McClamin, Wilcox Silver Plate Co.; 
De Lanccy stone. Shafer & Douglas ; A. G. Sherrard, Enos Richardson A Co., 
New York : Thos. £ Rogers, Hiker Bros., Newark, N. J. 

The Attleboros.— Horace Durgin. traveling salesman for George H. Uerrick 
& Co.. Attlelutro, who has just returned from New Hampshire, says tliat the 
aleighirg is '^» ill -'"^'i t!iere. 

Provldenca.^Willlam L. Brewer, traveler for J. Qallagher A Co., Provi- 
dence, made a flying trip to Bastem cities the past week. 

C. Warren Tuttle, tne glas^ manufacturer, Proyidence, was among the 
salesmen to go to New York the past week. 

Boston.— Among the Jewelrv salesmen in Boston during the week were : 
George W. Hutchison, of Hutchison & Heustis ; C. C. Orcutt, for Chester Bill- 
ings A Son ; B. Bckfeldt, of Eckfeldt & Ackley; Frank Wood, for Ludwig Nis- 
sen A Co.; Charles L. Power, of Ludeke & Power ; William H. Jones, of Jones 
A Woodland : Dayid C. 'I'ownsend, of Neresheimer & Co.; Harry P. Hayes, for 
the Howard Sterling Company ; George Osbom, for William Smith A Co. 



TREASURY pBOSION 

The following decision was given by the Trcastiry Department 
last week: 

MARKING OF DRESDEN CHINA. 

Royal Dresden china, marked with crossed swords, does not require additional 

marking to Indloate the country of origin, under section 8, 

actof July 84, 1897. 

Tbrasdrt Dspabtxikt, April 6, 1899. 
Sir : The Department is in receipt of a letter, dated New York, the first 
instant, from Messrs. Gllman. Collamore A Co., per J. W. Masters, attorney, in 
regard to the marking to indicate the country of origin, under the provisions 
of section 8 of the act of July 24, 1897, of certain Royal Dresden china imported 
at your port per *'PalatiH" on the Slst ultimo. 

In the opinion of the Department, ware of this well-known manufacture, 
which, it is understood, bears no commercial mHrkings, does not fall within 
the class of goods requiting marking to indicate the country of origin as con- 
templated by said section 8 and Department's circular of December 84, 1896. 
You will be governed accordingly, and furnish a copy of this letter to the 
United States appraiser at your port for his information and guidance. 

Respectfully yours, O. L. SPAULDING. 



CUSTOBffS 

Under this head we give wtekly a rstuna of the shlymenta and neelpts 
relating to the trades oorared by this paper, at the Port of Hew York, as waU 
as the Hationa] Monthly Report, contalniiig statistics of the imports aad ex- 
ports. We also-corer rsappFsisements of imports aad the deciaioBs of the Tiaaa- 
ary Departmont rslating to imported goods. 

RB APPRAISE HBNTS OP MERCHANDISB 

-The following are among the reappraisements of merchan- 
dise hande3^ltewn by tlie Board of General Appraisers last week: 

20Ta9~DBCORATKr> CHINA, from Scbafer & Vater, Rudelstadt, Feb. 27. 1899. 
Figures, decore, aecont^i entered at 1, advanced to 1.80 niarM per dozOT. 
Trays, decore. seconds ; f^atered at 1 and 1.75, advanced to 1.60 and 8.50 marks 
per dozen. Add packing riML^®^ 



"N 



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5o8 



mte JfiWfeLteftS k£Vl£W 



April 19, 1899 



Alfred H. Smith & Co. 

Diamonds, 
Pearls and 
Precious Stones. 



New York Office, - - - 182 Broadway, 

Corner John Street. 

London, - - 21 Holborn Viaduct. 
Chicago Offlce, 103 State Street, 

Columbus Memorial Building, 

Our many years' experience enables 
us to keep in the closest touch with 
every movement of the market. 



•llllllllllllllllllillllllllllDllltlllllllll 



We are pre-eminently leaders in fine 
MOUNTED GOODS, embodying 
perfect taste and the acme of skilled 
workmanship. 



•iiiiiiiiiiiiiiii)«iiii>iitititiiiiiii«iiitii 



While we consider ourselves head- 
quarters for the very finest grades 
of precious stones, we are neverthe- 
less always able tr fill from stock 
orders for goods at lower price. A 
the present time we offer |^?? c\ 
ceptionally fine rubier 'M> '■ nearls* 



RUMORED CCWIBINATION OF THE WATCH MANUFAC- 
TURING TRADE DENIED 

Apropos of the rumor circulated in r^aTd,to the consolida- 
tion of the principal watch and watch case manufacturers, a Re- 
view reporter interviewed a number of the kading concerns. 
Geo. E. Fahys, of Jos. Fahys & Co., 54 Maiden Lane, stated that 
he knew practically nothing in regard to the plan. He had re- 
ceived no proposition from Mr. Burriss, having in view the con- 
solidation, and considered the whole matter vi-sionary. Major 
Appleton, of Robbins & Appleton, selling agents for the Amer- 
ican Waltham Watch Company, had seen the article in the daily 
papers. Further than this he knew nothing about the matter, and 
did not believe that a combination was possible at present. Mr. 
Thomas, of the Elgin National Watch Company, stated that any 
such proposition would be submitted to the headquarters ol his 
company, at Chicago. The local branch had received no com- 
munication in regard to the matter. At the office of the Crescent 
Watch Case Company, 21 Maiden Lane, nothing was known 
about the matter. Reports from our correspondents say that 
President Hulburd, of the Elt^in Watch Company, at Elgin, 111., 
denies that his company is interested in the proposed combin- 
ation. President Fitch, of the American Waltham Watch Com- 
pany, at Waltham. Mass., knows nothing about the matter. El- 
liott Burriss, who has an office at 66 Broadway, and is the pro- 
moter of the pkm, stated that all of the large concerns had been 
communicated with and considerable progress had already been 
made. Further than this he would give no particulars. 

Arthur G. Moses, secretary and treasurer of the Trenton 
Watch Company, Trenton, N. J., stated that he had heard rumors 
in regard to the alleged combination of watch manufacturers, but 
so far as he knew there was absolutely no foundation for them. 
He said that his company had no intention of consolidating with 
any one, for the present, at least. 

John C. Deuber, president of the Hampden Watch Co. and 
the Deuber Watch Case Manufacturing Co., said: "There is ab- 
solutely nothing in it, so far as our companies are concerned- 
Although repeated overtures have been made to us at various 
times, we have refused all propositions." 



DIAMONDS AND OTHER PREOOUS STONE& 
Voder this head win appear all matter of Interest to fa^ldariet, *«y*«**mt 
foreiSii diamand market reporta and all other newt rtlatlni; to piedoiia atones. 
While we cannot pnhlieh an correspondence nceired, yet matten of intantc 
win always receiTe a place in this department. 

TBSriNO A DIAMOND 
When in doub{ as to the genuineness of a diamond there is 
one really reliable way by which the expe^-t or the amateur judge 
can determine the quality of the article, and that is to test its 
hardness by holding it against a rapidly revolving grindstone 
from five to ten minutes. Then, if the least mark appears upon 
the diamond it is not a real stone, for if it were a diamond, so far 
from any mark being produced upon it, it would be likely on the 
other hand to make a deep impression on the grindstone. 

Just to illustrate how hard a diamond is, an experiment was 
made last year with a piece of Brazilian bort. The stone had a 
radiated internal structure, and it was kept on a polishing wheel 
made of hard iron with a diameter of one foot for seven and a half 
hours a day for nine months. During that time the wheel turned 
at the rate of twenty-five hundred to three thousand revolutions. 



STAie OP THB FOREIGN OBM MARKBTS 

FROM OUR SPECIAL CORRESPONDENTS 

London, April 8th. — ^The season here will sliortly be in full 
swing, and our jewelers are in great expectat? v, 
a fine trad^. There have been of late very few fai'.u \^ 1 
in our trade. Buying has been v^'-r l»ri r, ip/r> jev . > 



JllJ^. JURrrN.^^\'j;i:£2iJii!i 



J 



^aatcbes Si Cbtonometcis 



SCHULZ 8l RUB|S^''*^28 johh st.,"hew torj. 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



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having held back, thinking after the 
rise of 5 per cent, there would be a 
corresponding fall in prices, but they 
have found their mistake, and orders 
are coming in every day. Buyers for 
rough goods have been plentiful, and 
the market for colored stones has been 
very active in sympathy with the de- 
mand for polish goods, as it is not our 
custom to use colored stones without 
diamonds; consequently, if the market 
for the latter is slow that for the former 
suffers too. M. de LYON. 

. Amsterdam, April 8. — The market 
here is as busy as ever, although sales 
jare not so quickly made as they were 
a few months ago. Goods, however, 
are no cheaper; on the contrary, prices 
rule higher. The condition of the 
goods has improved lately, but your 
buyers must remember that if they 
have any complaints to make on this 
score they must not blame the manu- 
facturers, but the people in London. 
They are in office, and you very well 
know what it means when an individual 
is in office without opposition of any 
kind. Our season promises to be a 
busy one. Several large orders have 
been received lately from Paris firms 
who are no doubt ordering with a view 
to the exhibition. We have had a 
great many buyers here from Paris 
and Russia, and next week we expect 
to see some of our American friends. 
Several of our rough dealers arrived 
from London yesterday with a fair sup- 
ply of rough, but again very badly sort- 
ed as to color and imperfections. Jac. 
Metz told me the other day that he has 
work on hand for six months to come. 
A good sign. H. CHARLES. 

Antwerp, April 8th.— A great many 
buyers from France, Russia, Germany, 
and a few from America are in evidence 
here and sales are quickly made. We 
are cutting all kinds of goods, and 
prices are as firm as a rock, but with 
ever a tendency to advance. Every- 
body is busy, but there are some pessi- 
mists here who predict a slack summer 
trade, which I think is absurd. With 



JEWELERS. 

Cushman Building, 
1 Maiden Lane 

Finest Location in New Yof k« 
Apply 

G. R WILCOXSON, 

172 Ninth Avenue, or on Premises 




several exhibitions on hand, and with 
the mternational affairs of Europe on a 
firm peace footing, I believe we shall 
have all we want in the way of lucra- 
tive business. We have sent a consid- 
erable quantity of polish goods to the 
United States recently, and I think 
your American buyers will find diffi- 
culty in getting more for a few weeks, 
as large orders have come in from 
•Paris which are likely to keep our 
people busy. The rough buyers ar- 
rived from London this morning, but 
las usual the series buyers supply the 
smaller ones and sales were quickly 
jmad'e. Max Tom sold for Tailkowsky 
a large parcel of capes to M. Besque. 
Coetermans is still cutting large stones. 
The large factory of 1,000 benches will 
will be in working order during the 
coming summer. Gus Wouters was 
last week in the company of several 
^manufacturers, but was not willing to 
speak about the strike at the New York 
factory. J. AKIE. 



The Cushman Building, Broadway and Maiden Lane 



JEWELERS IN THE CUSHMAN 
BUILDING 

CHARLES F. WOOD ft CO. 

This firm is another of the prominent 
jewelry firms of the city who occupy 
offices in the Cushman Building. Their 
suite of rooms covers the entire fourth 
floor, and the appointments and gen- 
eral arrangements are all of the most 
modem and approved design. In 
these as well as the other suites of 
offices we have described in this build- 
ing, the greatest attention has been 
paid to light, and there is hardly one 
place in any of the rooms where dur- 
ing the daytime artificial light is a 
necessity. Chas. F. Wood & Co.' moved 
to the Cushman Building from 14 Mai- 
den Lane at the end of last year. At 
present they deal exclusively in loose 
diamonds, believing that a single line 
can be handled to the greatest advan- 
tage, and in sorting and matching the 
stones Mr. Charles F. Wood is consid- 
ered by the trade to be the equal of any 
in that department of the business. 





Interior of the Offices of Charles F. Wood & Co. in the Cushman Building. 



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April 19, 1899 




This department ii deroted to practical and theoretical artidet relatine to 
the measniement of time and kindred snbjecta. In addition to the contribntions 
of repUar writert, the views of expert horoloffUts will appear from time to time, 
as well as expressions of opinion and IndlTldnal experiences of watch, dock and 
chronometer makers. 

Subscribers are invited to send questions on matters on which they desire 
information. These will be answered through our columns^ which are also 
open for the ventilation of all phases of Horological opinion. 



Communications Should be Addressed Horological Department. 
The Jewelers Review, 170 & 17a Broadway, New York. 

HENRY GANNEY, Editor. 



Vol. XXXII. 



APRIL 19, 1899. 



No. 16. 



MANAGEMENT AND CLEANING OF FRENCH CLOCKS 

There are probably no classes of clocks used for the ordinary 
purposes of life that are capable of giving better satisfaction to 
the public, or less trouble to the dealer and repairer, than those 
known by the name of French clocks. Their comparative mod- 
erate cost, when real worth is taken into consideration, and the 
beautifully artistic design of the cases, has been the means of cre- 
ating a demand for them in refined communities, all over the 
globe. Works of art in this line, which were at on€ time only 10 
be found in the palaces and castles of kings and noblemen, have 
found their way into the dwellings of those possessed of less 
affluence, and in various grades of quality they are gradually be- 
ing introduced into the homes of all possessed of a cultivated 
taste and a moderate income. 

The cleaning and management of these clocks, althousrh 
simple, and requiring care and a little experience, more than any 
other qualification, is seldom done in a manner that eives full 
justice to the clock; and it is our object, in the present paper, to 
impart a few hints to ihose who may not have had the necessary 
experience; and we will begin by making a few hints on new, or 
newly imported clocks. 

It occasionally occurs in newly imported French clocks that 
a movement has been fitted to a case that is not high enough to 
allow the pendulum to swing free when the clock is regulated to 
the proper time. Sometimes filing a little off the bevelled edge 
of the ball will allow the pendulum to clear the bottom of the 
case or stand of the clock, and allow it to be brought to time. 
Should any more than just a little taken off the edge of the ball 
be required, there is no use troubling with it further. You must 
cither get a n^w movement, or alter the train, or make a new 
pendulum ball of peculiar shape. The train is easiest altered by 
putting in a new scape-wheel pinion containing one leaf less than 
the old one. In all large cities, where pinion wire can be had, 
putting in a new pinion is not much trouble to the practical 
workman; but if this cannot be done, and a new movement *' \\- 
not be had, a new pendulum ball of an obloi ^ shape r> ^^ 
used. 

After they are unpacked, whether they are apparently in :.;o \ ' 
condition or not, it is always well to take tl * :ii< v.'ii>' ts to 
pieces and examine every action in the cV» ' . ^ (» . nay beofin 
by takirg off the hands and the dial, fir<' .ry . , '* • 10 iidnds move 
freely; then examine the drops of t' - t- ..; .v it to see if the/ 



are equal, and if they are not exactly even, they can easily be cor- 
rected by moving the front bush of the pallet arbor with the 
screw-driver, making a light mark across the bush with a sharp 
point, which will show how much the bush has been mov<^H. 
The fly pitching may next be examined, and adjusted by a mov- 
able bush in the same wav. The object of this bush beinsr left 
movable is to admit of the depth being set so that the fly will 
make the least noise possible, and also to reg^ulate the speed of 
the striking train. The dial work and the repeating work may 
now be removed, and the springs let do'wn, and the end and side 
shakes of the pivots in their holes carefully tried and all the 
depths examined; but as a general rule they will be found to be 
correct. The pivots will, in some instances, be a little rough, 
and it will not be much trouble for a watchmaker to smooth them 
a little. After examining the main-springs, and noticing that the 
arbors are free in the barrels, the clock may be cleaned out and 
put together. This will be most conveniently done by placing all 
the" wheels first on the back plate, putting the front one on the 
top. Get all the long pivots into their holes first, and as soon as 
possible put a pin into the bottom pillars. The locking of these 
clocks is very simple, and all the pieces are marked that are nec- 
essary to be marked. All the workman has to do is to follow 
th€ marks and he cannot go wrong; but should he begin to bend 
or twist anything, he will soon find himself in serious trouble. 

There are a few items that we wish to direct special attention 
to. Be sure that the arbors in the barrels are oiled, and that 
the main-springs are hooked before you put them in the frame, 
and be sure there is oil on the pivots below the winding ratchets 
before they are put on, and that the wheel that carries the minute 
hand moves round the center pinion with the proper tension, 
before you put on the dial. After the dial is put on, this cannot 
be remedied without taking it off again, and if the hands are 
loose, results fatal to the character of the clock are sure to fol- 
low. We can recall an instance where a customer left an. order 
at one of the most celebrated watchmakers in the United States 
to have a French clock put in order. One of tlie workmen, who 
had the name of being a good watchmaker, was sent to examine 
the clock, and brought it away, cleaned it, and took it home 
again. For months, complaints came in that the clock went slow, 
and the man who cleaned it always went and altered the regu- 
lator, but with no good result, and tlie clock was a second time 
brought to the store. It was examined, and the small wheel on 
the top of the regulator was found to have been wrenched off. 
The regulator was a Breg^uet one, and when the piece that slides 
on the pendulum spring was raised as far as it could go, of 
course atr, further turning of the regulator square at tlie point 
of the lia" \v -^nched the wheel off, as we have stated. Now the 
real rm -«• of ,J1 this trouble and annoyance to every one con- 
mud w *;othing more or less than the hands were loose in 
;. s,t'^,^^ m which they were set, and when the clock was in the 
an .'f discharging the striking part every half hour, the hands 
-ometimes fell back a little, and the clock appeared to be going 
slow. 

In regulating one of these clocks, especially if you have to go 
a distance to do it, and are not conversant with all its peculiari- 
ties, it is always safest to turn the case round, examine the regu- 
lator, apd \i it is a Breguet one, put a slight mark wi^ a sharp 



Digitized by VjjOOQLC 



April 19, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



511 



point across the regulator, and when the regulating square is 
turned you will see exactly how much the regulator is altered; 
because there is sometimes a want of truth in the screw that 
moves the sliding piece, which deceives people as to the value 
of the amount they may have moved the '•egulator. There are 
various kinds of regulators, but probably the Breguet one is the 
most common of those of modern construction. Those that have 
silken thread regulators should always be regulated with caution, 
and when small alterations have to be made, it is well to use an 
eye-glass and notice how much the pendulum is moved up or 
down. When a clock with such a regulator has to be moved or 
carried about, when it is out of the case, it is always safe to mark 
the place where the pendulum worked in the back fork wlien it 
was regulated to time; for, should the thread be disarranged, it 
can be adjusted so as to bring the mark on the pendulum to its 
proper place, and the regulation of the clock will not be lost 
thereby. 

On fastening one of these clocks in its case, they are generally 
put in beat by moving the dial round a little till the beats be- 
come equal; but it sometimes occurs that when the clock is in 
beat, the dial is not square in the case. When this happens, it 
is always best to take the clock out of the case and bend the back 
fork at its neck till you get it to move exactly as far past the 
center wheel pivot on the one side as on the other, when the 
pallets allow the scape wheel to escape. If this is done, the dial 
will be square when the clock is in beat. Some French clocks 
have their back forks loose, o** rather spring tight, on their 
arbors. This is sometimes done in movements that have plain 
as well as jewelled pallets. If the pallets are exposed in front 
of the dial, you can at once detect by the eye if the clock be out 
of beat; but if they are inside, you cannot tell without close listen- 
ing. One of the objects of the loose crutch spoken of is that 
the clock can be put in beat by giving it a shake; but it is evi- 
dent that if a shake puts it in beat another shake will put it out 
of beat again. We have seen great annoyance arise from these 
loose crutches, and long journeys made to examine clocks, when 
nothing was the matter with them more than they were out of 
beat, caused by the housemaids moving them in their dusting 
operations. The crutches ought always to be rigidly tight, ex- 
cept, perfiaps, when the pallets are jewelled, and the clock not 
liable to be moved. 

As to cleaning these clocks, there remains but little to say, 
they seldom if ever require any repairs, except perhaps the pal- 
lets get cut, but they are generally made so as to admit of the 
action being shifted, and which is easily done. Cleaning the 
brass, of course, is done in the usual way. Buffs should be used 
for the large pieces, when very dirty; but when only slightly tar- 
nished, a little cyanide of potassium dissolved in alcohol will be 
found very suitable. 

The cases require to be handled with care, and special care 
should always be taken to prevent finger marks; in the very high- 
est priced clocks this precaution is perhaps not quite so neces- 
sary, because then the cases are either teal bronze, or gilt and 
burnished; but in the cheaper qualities, and also in some ex- 
pensive patterns of cases, the gilding is easily damaged. A little 
cyanide of potassium and ammonia, dissolved in water, will often 
clean and restore it, if the gilding is not rubbed. There is a 
preparation sold in the form of a paste that renews the luster 
of black marble cases if they have become dim. If the prepara- 
tion cannot be got conveniently, a little beeswax on a piece of 
flannel is a good substitute. 

Although we have known instances where there was much 
trouble and little satisfaction in the going of newly imported 
French clocks, in almost every instance the trouble could be 
traced to the mismanagement of those persons who were en- 
trusted to put them in order and adjust them. A little care, and 
the exercise of sound judgment on the part of the workman, 
would prevent many annoyances that sometimes happen with 
pendulum French clocks. 

An Italian in 1723 was the first to introduce the practice of 
using stones for watch bearings. He co.i^cejyed the idea and was 
the first to make hh own jewels. 



AVitalPointofa 
Wateh for accuracy 

Is the hairspring. The hairsprings 
used in all of our watches are made 
of the finest make of steel in the 
world. The hairsprings used in the 
most costly watches could not be of 
better steel, because none belter is made. 
Our hairsprings, hardened and tempered 
to bring them to a condition of perfect elas- 
ticity, are then very carefully timed in the 
balances. 





An accurately timed hairspring and bal- 
ance is used as standard. The new bal- 
ances to be timed are taken up, one by one, 
and rotated (the lower point of the staffs 
resting on a polished surface) 
until, by changing the hold of 
the tweezers, the new spring 
and the accurate standard move 
in perfect accord. 

The cheapest of our Watche? 
have the same care in this 
respect as the higher priced 
ones, 

••• THE ••• 

New England Watch Co. 

Waterbury, Conn. 




Digitized by ^OOQ IC 



512 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 19, 1899 



ANNE BOLEYN'S CLOCK 

There is in the possession of Her Majesty Queen Victoria the 
case of a clock which is said to have been presented to Anne 
Boleyn by Henry VIII. It is 4 inches square and 554 inches 

high, surmounted by a 
figure of a lion. Horace 
Walpole described it as 
"a clock of silver gilt 
(brass), richly chased, en- 
graved and ornamented 
with fieur-de-lys, little 
heads, etc. On the top 
sits a lion holding the 
arms of England, which 
are also on the sides. On 
the weights are the initial 
letters of Henry and Anne 
in true lovers' knots, at 
the top *Dieu et mon 
droit,' at the bottom 'The 
most happye V " The 
present movement in it is 
a modern one. There is 
no record as to the maker 
of Anne Boleyn's clock, 
• of which a drawing is ap- 
pended, but at this time 
most of the "orolages" 
were the production of 
foreign artists, judging 
from the names quoted in State papers of the period. There 
is a record that in July, 1530, £15 was paid to the French- 
man who sold the King "ij clocks at Oking." In the following 
month was paid to a Frenchman called Drulardy for lij dyalls 
and a clokk for the King's Grace the sum of ii5." In December 
of the same year £19 6s. 8d. was "paid to Vincent Keney, clokk 
maker, for kj clokks and dialls." So many payments within a 
brief period warrant the assumption that clocks were a form of 
present favored by His Majesty. 




^H^ 



K & Rirscbberg, 

IJ iamotia Itt omititigs, 



Manttbcttnef of 



JIM DiaMoid Semr. 
nofdiy Dttips a Specialty. 

406 ai4iMMgtoM Street Bo$toa, man. 

Thomas H. Worrkll. J||| DW 6004$ Sobsbt A. Fahst. 

WORREU & FAHEY 

DiaMoad$ atd otlitr Predom Stoats 

Watches and Fine Jewelry 
9, U & 13 Maiden Lane, New York 



AN HISTORIC CLOCK 

In the map room of the office of chief of engineers of the War 
Department is a clock with a history of three-quarters of a cen- 
tury. It is a handsome clock of the old hall pattern, and stands 
in its frame nearly eight feet high. Besides striking the time, it 
has a calendar, which those who know say is always coTcct. 
The clock was made by the firm of Burnett & Rigdon, in George- 
town, for the Bank of Columbia, at Georgetown. Being a na- 
tional bank, it fell under the ban of Gen. Jackson over sixty years 
ago, when he succeeded in having the United States banks abol- 
ished by law. After the bank closed its doors the clock was 
taken to the rooms in the upper part of the building, which were 
occupied by the topographical corps of the War Department, 
from which the corps of engineers in the army afterward sprung. 
From there the clock was moved to tlie Winder Building, where 
it struck the hours tor nearly a third of a century, and was then 
after the erection of the War, State and Navy building given its 
present, and, it is very likely, its permanent home. The indica- 
tions are that it will live for another hundred years, for there do 
not seem to be any worn parts about it. 

CHAMBER CLOCKS-FIFTEENTH CENTURY 

The appended Fig. 18 from the "Bibliotheque National dc 
Paris," purports to represent the remains of a fifteenth century 
chamber clock. It is pretty evident there was originally a bell 
at the top of the case, and perhaps a hand to indicate the hour. 
It is not certain there was a hand, for some of the early clocks 
had revolving dials. In the South Kensington Museum there is 
on a "tarsia," or inlaid work panel of Italian late fifteenth cen- 
tury production a representation of a clock with a revolving 
ring, on which the twenty-four hours are marked, as seen in 
Fig. 19. The whole panel shows an open cupboard, in which 
there are, besides the clock,, a flagon, a chalice, a cross, etc., so 
that one may infer that the clock was of comparatively small 
size, and of course of older date than the panel, which careful 
comparison by the experts of the Museum fixes at certainly not 
later than 1500. The action of the winding work is obscure, but 
with that exception the construction of the clock is tolerably 
clear. 



Edwin Passmore 

« Dpidary « 

(mtti»ram49-fri, FINE GEMS 

JlMieriaiM qeiii * $v«cMitv 

A FINE ASSORTMENT IN STOCK 

Room 76, Jewekt^ B«tlldin8> Bottoo 



H. S. KHANlEt? 



82 NASSAU ST., 



NEW YORK 



REMOVED- 






match materials, tools, Optical goods! 

s 

A txiW Ariior'iieat a Alio a Futl Lioe of | 

bot'i American and Imported ^ Watclics, Clocks and Jewelry | 

Our new "Jeweler's Guide " will soon i 

BE ISSUED. Send for it— no charge I 



to 87 Walden Lane, cor.Goidst..TvEw 

In our new quarters we have 3,00c -square . • . "^ ■; 
modern machinery. This means that t^n- ..k,.*. ,v 
very best work, promptly executed. 



[•.ice I'led with 
pon us for the 



fwV. 



-■T« 



eisler&l;;Ui5Heim 

Special Order Work. Fine niranond NountinsfS and Jewelry 



IFAHYS 




!•■•■•■< 



CASES! 



IMve$«M€«iailMP$«ia9oiMt. 1Mi4€ignMl. 

Digitized by V^jOOQ IC 






April 19, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



513 



CLOCKIS FOR THE HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES 

From the latest report of the Clerk of the House of Repre- 
sentatives, showing the receipts and expenditures of the House 
for the past year, it will be seen from the following figures that 
the jewelry trade came in for a small share of the money put into 
circulation: 



Repairing and cleaning S-day olook, engineer's office 

Repairing 8 day striKlng clock, and cleaning. Committee on Mann- 

faotnres 

French dock, new striking spring, new winding ratchet, and click. 

Committee on Military Affairs 

New 8-day marbleized striking clock. Committee on Revision of Laws, 
New 8-day French clock, fixed up in old marble case. Appropriations 

Committee 

New 8-day marbleized striking dock. Committee on Militia 

French dock cleaned. Committee on Nayal Affairs 

Winding and regulating 9 regulators in Hall of Representatives and 1 in 

theSpeaker*sroom, from July 1, 1807, to July 1, 1806 

French clock cleaned, enrolling room 

French dock, new mainspring, reporter's room 

New rosewood handle for Speaker's gavd ... 

8-day dock. Committee on Printing, new weights and repcUring cylinder. 

New fly-back minute dock for Speaker's desk 

French dock cleaned, committee room. Committee on Ways and Means. 

ifrenoh dock, new top to black marble case, disbursing office 

French dock, new ngure to dial and cleaned, committee room. Com- 
mittee on the District of Columbia 

French clock, new figure to dial. Public Land Committee room 

Winding 3 regulators in Hall of Representatives and Speaker^s room, six 

months to date 

Committee room. Committee on Agriculture : 

July 28. French dock, new teeth to barrel, and cleaned 

Conmiittee on Blections No 1 : 

Aug. 1. French clock, new winding square and cleaned 

8ergeant-at- Arms' office : 

Oct. & French dock, repaired escapement and strike works, and 

cleaned 

Committee on Foreign Affairs : 

Oct 8. Bight-day French clock, pendulum and winding apparatus 

repaired and cleaned 

Committee on Invalid Pensions : 

Nov. 18. Clock cleaned and case repaired and bronzed 

Document room : 

Nov. 18. Elght^day clock case, bronzed, repaired, and cleaned 

Committee on ways and Means : 

Nov. 16. Bight-day clock, new pendulum, spring, and cleaned 



$2.60 

8.00 

8.00 
16.U0 

16.00 
15.00 
3.00 

20.00 
8.60 
2.60 
1.25 
8.50 

26 00 
8.60 
2.00 

4.ro 

.76 
80.00 
4.00 
4.00 

4.00 

4.00 
6.00 
6.00 
4.00 



PROCESSES FOR CX>LORING AND FINISHING GOLD 

DRY COLORING 

Before entering upon an examination of this process, by which 
the surface of alloyed gold is changed into a rich and beautiful 
yellow color, presenting, in goldsmith's work, a strikingly char- 
acteristic and most pleasing appearance, we desire to express the 
hope that we are not laying ourselves open to the charge of be- 
traying trade secrets, our aim simply being to render a service 
which will prove useful to jewelers generally, as well as to manu- 
facturers and workmen, iby endeavoring (from a practical point 
of view) to explain in detail the real nature of a process little 
understood, and one which enriches and puts a finish upon their 
work. 

Coloring, to the goldsmith, is strictly a trade term, and means 
the giving of color to an article after every other process of 
workmanship has been completed, and it is restricted by him 
to this particular process, which is one entirely chemical in 
its ndUure; its effect is to give to gold of inferior standard 
all the appearance of line gold itself. This appearance is not an 
imaginary one, nor is it a mere superficial coating, of the sur- 
face with gold of a higher quality, similar to gilding, 
but a peculiar and exact process of removing the alloy from gold 
articles and leaving a surface of pure gold behind, of a deep rich 
color which no other process can equally effect. The simple fact 
is that gold-coloring is an effective process for refining the whole 
surface. 

It is now about sixty years since colored gold was first intro- 
duced into the English market in its manufactured state as an 
article of commerce. At that time, and previously, the English 
gold workers were bright workers only. The goldsmith's work 
of that period had a red-looking appearance, very similar to the 
now well-known Albion gold in point of color; the finish pro- 
duced then was differently effected from that of the present day, 
being due solely to polishing, and upon the artificer in that 
branch depended the beauty and excellence of finish which the 
work possessed. Articles of those days are designated as arti- 
cles made with the old red gold. It has been said that the gold- 
smith who, by submitting his work to a chemical preparation, 
first produced a color never before obtained by any process was 
a Frenchman. Since the introduction of the art as a French in- 
vention, it has seen many changes—both English and German— 




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NEW GRADES 
18 Size 21 Jewel Movements 



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has placed on the market the following: New Grades 
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Open Face: 

2\ extra fine Ruby Jewels in Gold Settings, 
Nickel, Double Roller Escapement, Steel 
Escape Wheel, Sapphire Pallets, Patent 
Micrometric Regulator, Breguet Hair- 
spring, Double Sunk Dial, beautifully 
finished Nickel Plates, Gilt Lettering, 
Steel parts Champferred, Adjusted to 
Temperature, Isochronism and Positions, 

AND 

2! Jewels, Nickel, Steel Escape Wheel, 
Breguet Hairspring, Patent Regulator, 
Double Sunk Glass Enamel Dial, beauti- 
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These Movements are made with the same ex- 
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Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



5H 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 19, 1899 



IDictoda Ibotel 

Michigan Avenue & Van Bnren Street, Chicago 




A high -class hotel located in the best part of 

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and easily accessible to the 

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SPEQ AL CARE TAKEN OF JEWELERS' SAMPLES 



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American Plan, $3.00 and npwards 
Enropean «« 1.50 ** ** 

C. p. MILUGAV 
FBAVKUPMAM 



ALOIS KOHN & CO. 

maofactirm Of Solid Qold €l)aill$ 

LORGNETTES AND GUARDS A SPECIALTY. 

4 MAIDEN LANE, NEW YORK* 





I YOU WANT 

FINE — 

TRAYS and I 

CASES 



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S. VALFER & CO., 33 maiden lane. n. y. Z 

Makers of FINE CASES and TRAYS )f 

FOR JEWELERS AND SILVERSMITHS. J 



not only in the mode of its application and the sliades of color 
produced, but also in the qualities of the gold operated upon. 

There are two methods of coloring gold, called respectively 
the dry coloring and the wet coloring. The materials employed 
are nearly the same in all cases. They are — 

I part of salt. 

1 part of alum. 

2 parts of saltpeter. 

Dry coloring cannot be performed upon gold inferior to 18 
carats. We shall give several processes for wet-coloring, with 
their respective qualities of gold, as arranged and practised by 
ourselves. But we now proceed to the details of the process of 
dry-coloring and shall give our information in a methodical 
manner in order to be the more plain and intelligible, and shall 
describe the various operations generally employed, upon each of 
which depends failure or success. 



ORIGINAL PROCESS OF DRV COLORING 



^'1-i 



This process for coloring superior articles of gold has been 
extensively practiced by goldsmiths; it is not so complicated as 
many, and therefore may be performed with less skill. This is 
decidedly the original one; it requires the following materials: 

Nitrate of potassia 8 ozs. 

Common salt 4 ozs. 

Alum 4 ozs. 



16 ozs. 



The mixture should be reduced to powder and placed in a 
color-pot or common earthenware pipkin and allowed to dissolve 
slowly, this should be done over a fire that can be easily regulated, 
a gas furnace being the best for the purpose. The pot need only 
be large enough to give the work full play without allowing it to 
touch the bottom or side, which would mark the article dipped. 
It should be suflficiently filled with color, so that when it rises 
it would come to the top. While dissolving the mixture should 
be well stirred with an iron stirrer; it will then rise, and the work 
must at once be suspended in it by means of fine silver or plati- 
num wire and kept in continual motion until the liquid is about 
to sink in the pot, when the work must be taken out and at once 
immersed in clean muriatic acid pickle, which will remove the 
adhering color. The color in the pot will rise again after the 
withdrawal of the work, and of this opportunity advantage must 
be taken for a fresh dip. For plain work generally two of these 
dips will be sufficient, but for hollow work three will be neces- 
sary. No description can give the exact time or explain the in- 
cidents connected with coloring; sometimes it will be produced as 
quickly again as others, and this knowledge can only be acquired 
by actual practice. In this process there is not so much danger 
of spoiling the work as in the subsequent ones we shall refer to, 
for so intense a heat not being required, it can safely be left in 
the mixture for longer periods. Moreover, if preferred, the 
quenching directly after the stated periods of withdrawing the 
work from the color, may be dispensed with altogether. The arti- 
cles may be removed occasionally to ascertain if the mixture 
has operated sufficiently, and when this is made evident they 
should be allowed to cool gradually, and afterwards immersed 
in clean muriatic pickle, which will remove the adhering flux. 
After this is done the articles must be rinsed in a weak solution of 
soda, or potassia, and then washed in hot soda and water and 
finally rinsed well in clean boiling water and placed in clean box- 
wood sawdust to dry. Articles colored by this process may be 
burnished if deemed necessary; but the above mode of perma- 
nently finishing seems to have been formerly practiced and to have 
found favor with many. 

Trial Number is a symbol used to express the relative ex- 
cellence of watches and chronometers in competitive trials. The 
Greenwich method of arriving at the trial number, whidi is also 
used at several foreign observatories, is to add to the difference 
between the greatest and least (in seconds), twice the difference 
between one week and the next. 



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April 19, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



515 



M. SPINDLER & CO. 



HAVE 



REMOVED 



82-84 Nassau St- 

NBW YORK 

Where thev have much larger and better 
quarters IMPROVED MACHINERY has been 
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creased. Our specialty is 

GOLD LOCKETS 

of every kind, shape and style. We are head- 
quarters for these Kocds. 



L TAHHERBiOl k CO. 

Lnportefs and Cutters of 

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25 ItaltM Csrtfea, \Mm4mm. 



00 YEARS' 
EXPERIENCE 




TfiADC Marks 

Designs 

Copyrights Ac 

Anyone sending a sketch and description may 
qnlckir ascertain oar opinion free whether an 
Invention ts probably patentable. Comnmntca- 
tlonsstrioUyoonfldenttisL Handbook on Patents 
sent free. Oldest agency for securing patenU. 

Patents taken through Mann 6t Co. receive 
special fioMcs, without charge. In the 

Scknlific JUnerkam 

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E. P. REICHHELM & CO/S 

lEWELERS' TOOL DEPOT 
23 John St, NEW YORK 

Try Genuine Gnirea Gold Alloy. 

Tine Ceatbcr 6ooa$_ 

Ezclfjsively for tiie Jewelry Trade 



Artistic Gold aRd Silver Monstiiiss 
RARE ^^^^^ 

NEW riNISHES AND COLORS 

LOUIS W. HRABA 



CsuMMMtf 1879 29 East l9Ui St., New York 



Evoytbinff in Pooketbooks, Card Cases. Toilet 
Cases, Dressing Rolls, Bags, Belts, Etc., Etc. 



no doubt you know what you do not want. 

but perhaps you may not know what vou do want. 

I have had experience, 

am said to have ability —and 

am at your service — for a reasonable consideration. 



all sorts of 
commercial literature 



J.W. SCHWARTZ, 

Room 905, Temple Court, NEW YORK. 



•lll|llinillillllHIIIIMIIIIIIIItl«IIIMflllllllllllllllltllltllinillllllltllllllllllltlllilllllllllllll|l|l|l|llllllll(tlMlllltllHIIIIII)lllllllllllllltlll|ltllllllllll)tllllllilllllllltllll)i 



SIIWIIIinillillllHIIIIMIIIIIIIItKIIII 
.. »ay! 

i 



Those of you who do not carry a stock of stones — | 
I respectfully call your attention to my cash order I 
business. | 

By trading with me you get the best goods, and | 
don'ipay the jobber's profits. \ 

On receipt of price and size of goods wanted, the same is sent by rctura I 
I mail. If not what desired, I will cheerfully exchange or refund the money. | 
I It pays to buy direct of the Importers. | 



ROBT. BURNHAM 



Dealer In Predons Stones and Minerals 



Mi CAIP ST., PROYIDEHCE, R. I. f 



D. W. C05TIQAN & CO -.^ 

TO 

EDDY ST. {Comer of ciitiord). Providcnce, R. I. 

XLhc Ipbilabelpbia Commetctal ^useuntt 

S)r* naflUam p* lRaildon» S)frector, 



Supplies DETAILED, SPECIFIC INFORMATION oonoerning the 
TBADE CONDITIONS of the WORLD'S MARKETS. 



It tells WHERE THE MARKETS ARE 
aad by whom supplied. 

Who the RESPONSIBLE BUYERS ARS» 
and HOW TO REACH THEM. 



It can ascertain FOR YOT7 the particular REQUIREMENTS of any ot all 
markets in THE LINE OF GOODS YOU MAKE. 



It has inaugurated a most valuable method of REGISTERINd- AMERICAN 
MANUFACTURERS in Foreign Countries by means of 



Catb f nbei JFlles 



PLACED IN THE CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE IN FORTY-FIVE OF 
THE PRINCIPAL COMMERCIAL CENTERS OF THE WORLD. 



This is a moyement in th e Interest of American Commerce with which 
YOU SHOULD BE IDENTIFIED. 



Write for particulars to / 

Zbc IPbilabelpbia Commercial ^useum» 

233 Soutb yottttb fSttcet, pbilaoetpbia, pa. 



Digitized by VjOOQ IC 



516 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 19, 1899 



CHAS. F.WOOD lb CO., DIAMONDS 



IMPORTERS AND CUTTERS. 



I MAIDEN LANE, NEW YORK. 



HENRY 0. CLEWER, 

Pelliber and Capper 
of Tine 3e«pelnf. 

METAL LAPPING IN ALL ITS VARIED 
STYLES. 

FACETING A SPECIALTY. 

Satin and Engliah Finish, Btruican and Roman 

Color, Bright Plating and Silvering, 

UxidUing, etc. All Work 

Guaranteed. 

80 NASSAU ST, NEW YORK. 



C.G.MALLIET&CO. 

DianoM €antr$ 

14 Maiden Lane 

NEW YORK 



London^ 
50 Hoflbofn Vladttct 



Amitefdaini 
2 Ttilpftnat. 



Try Us on your Old Gold 

We think we can do better by 21ld SUVCr 
you than has l>eea done; at 
any rate we'l. guarantee prompt returns and 
fair tieatment. 

JOHN WATERS' SON 

Gold and Silver Refiner, 
Assayer and Sweep Smelter 

TiN(6oM.Rolkd«MI 

6raNNlat(d Silver a specially. 

12 DUTCH ST., NEW YORK. 



rsil 



$1.25 

WaPar 
Retuni ex- 
press UMirfos* 

BestniiMl. 

- DiiraMa. 

We have made price consistent with A No. i 
work as low as possible. We allow nothing but 
first-class portraiu to leave our place Our work 
is guaranteed not to Fade nor Pool Off. 

TRY Ua, YOU WILL MB aATISFIBD, 

WILLIAI BARTHIAR. ik Maiden Lane R. T. 




TRan* MaKK 



speciALTtea in 

SHELLIH6AHD SALTS BOTTLES, 

SalT6 and Puff Boxes 

FOR MOUNTING. 

MATOMIHQ Alto RM^AIRina. 

Cattlnc Shop OD franiBM. S4 Ymt's EtiwriuiM. 

W. H. LUM, 4-6 Murray St., New York. 



PATENTS 



Qaioltlx loeurvd. OUS FEZ DT71 WHKIf PATEHT 
OBTAINSD. Send model, iketoli or photo. wiU 
dftieription for fro« r«port ai to pftUnUbilifcy. 41-PAOI 
HAITD-BOOK FKIE. Contaiai nfsrenoof And fkiU 
i nfenm Hioa. WBITS rOK 00?T OF OUS SPECIAL 
OFFKE. Ilil tbo moit l iberal propoiitioo «Ter made bj 
ft patoal ftltornoj, and EVEET XVTENTOE BEOXn.D 
EEAD IT bofon appl/ing for patent. Addroti : 

H.B.WILLS0NiCO. 

PATENT LAMYCRS, 

LoPn>itMi«.. WASHINGTON, D. C. 



First-dass Work at Moderate Prices* 

EVERYTHING IN 

EI6RAYIN6, DIE SINKII6 iND T00LHAKIH6. 

Cx#orio«cod WorkoMm 12 Yoors* Cxporiooco. 

A. SCHLUETER & CO. 

363 Market Street, NEWARK, N.J. 



LEON HIRSCH 

Importer of Watches 

No* 45 MAIDEN LANE 
NEW YORK 

Will Remove on or about 

APRIL 10th 

TO THE 

LORSCH BUILDING 

37 & 39 MAIDEN LANE 
FIRST FLOOR. 



FACTORY : 



CHAUX-DE-FONDS (SWITZERLAND) 
Rue Daniel Jean Rlcbatd 9* 




AN EYE GLASS 
CLEANER 

I ideal preparation for the 
immediate restoration of lenses 
original brilliancy and 
&moothness. Contains nothing in- 
jurious. One bottle will last a long 
time. 
dozea ; $15.00 for fro as. 



The SS Auto-adjustable and 
Triple-bearing Eye Glass Guard 



4id 



The only guard that 
can be adjusted to fit any 
nose It has but one un- 
interrupted surface with 
three points of bearing, 
which more evenly dis- 
tributes the preasure 
element, and may be dis- 
posed of evenly and 
speedily with no other 
tools tnan the hand 



SPBNCBR OPTICAL MFQ. CO. 
IS Mmidea Lmae. 



The Sumner-Qrimes Co. 

^'^B!EB^*>4rx ■ y"^ ^^^ Superior St. 
^r^J^^^^^^^tyf ly Cleveland, Ohio. 

Our prices and the style and 
>#\ qaility of oar 

^ CadiM' aad 6eM$' 

€baln$ 

will be a surprise to you* 
Write us. 

THEY WEAR AND THEY SELL. 




OppenlisiiDSP |P08. & (eifli, 



Cutters DIAMONDS Importers 



NASSAU & JOHN (Prescott Baflding), NEW YORK. 2 T«Up St, Amsterdam. 45 Holbotn Viaduct, London 



LLELONG 6 BROTHER. 



.ogle 




Volume XXXII 



NEW YORK, APRIL 26, 1899 



No. 17 



JOSEPH M. BATES 
A couimanding dgure 
anions^ the manufacturing 
jewelers of Attleboro and vi- 
cinity is Joseph M.Bates, pro- 
prietor of the Bates & Bacon 
VVatch Case Manufactory, 
of Attleboro, Mass. Much 
more than that can be said 
of hixn. The town of Attle- 
boro has climbed from a 
sparsely settled village to the 
iront rank of the manufac- 
turing towns of the State, 
solely through the rapid 
growth and magnificent de- 
velopment of its jewelry in- 
dustry. The master hand in 
all that growth and develop- 
ment is that of Joseph M. 
Bates, of whose indomitable 
energy, skill and patriotic de- 
votion this town stands as a 
monument to-day and for- 
ever. 

Mr. Bates was born in 
Wickford, R. I., in 1836. At 
the age of fifteen he went to 
Providence, R. I., to learn 
the jewelry business. His 
time being out, he worked 
one year as foreman of a 
shop in that city. In 1857 he 
went to Attleboro and started 
in business for himself in the 
manufacturing of rolled gold 




JOSEPH M. BATES 

PROPBISTOB BATES * BACON WATCH CASB liANUVACTOBT. 



plated bracelets. He took 
quarters in the old "Shuttle 
Shop," which was run by 
water power. At that time 
he was the only one making 
rolled plated bracelets, and 
there were but three jewelry 
factories in town, which was 
then but a diminutive village. 
January i, j868, he formed a 
partnership with George M. 
Bacon. In 1872 the Erm 
moved to the Steam Power 
Building and increased its 
force from 25 to 175 em- 
ployees. In 1884 the firm 
started manufacturing filled 
gold watch cases in addition 
to the bracelet line, and built 
a new factory 260 feet long, 
40 feet wide and four stories 
high. On May 28, 1890, Mr. 
Bates bought out his partner 
and has ever since conducted 
the business alone. The dis- 
astrous Ere of May, 1898, 
completely destroyed his fac- 
tory and everything connect- 
ed with the business. In nine 
days from the date of that 
fire he had built a temporary 
shop and started on making 
new tools for his business. 
Four months after the fire 
the factory he now occupies 
was completed and in full 







1 ^^^ ...DIAMONDS 


MOUNT & WOODHULL 

FORMERLY WITH LATE FIRM OF 

RANDEL, BAREMORE & BILLINGS, 

Importers of 

DIAMONDS^^ 

Other Precious Stones, Pearls, Etc. 

Makers of Fine Diamond Jewelry 

26 MAIDEN LANE 
(Southwest corner Nassau Street) 

JOHN C. MOUNT TMI? W VOR K" 
ADDISON W. WOODHULL IN tl» W XKJIKr^ 


Wm. S. Hedges & Co. 

Importers ... 

! Diamonds and Precious Stones 

1 

170 Broadway. New York 

>7 Holborn Viaduct, London. 


^ (?- e- Diamond Jewelry 



FOR TABLE OF CONTENTS AND INDEX TO ADVERTISERS SEE PAGE 538 



Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



5i8 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 26, 1899. 



ESTABLISHED 1840. 



Chester Billings & Son 

Soooessm U RANDEL, BAREMORE & BILLINGS 

IMPORTERS OF 

DIAMONDS 



1840 RANDEL A BAREMORE. 
1866 RANDEL. BAREMORE A CO. 
1880 RANDEL, BAREMORE A BILLINBS. 



Othor Prooiotts Stoios aid Poarls 



58 Namti Street, DIAMOND J» 

29 Maiden Lane, 22 Holbofn VhducU . I LfVl/Li T DV 

MmW YORK. UOMOOM, S.O. •^ JHWULKY 



J. B. BOWDEN. 



M. L. BOWDEN 



J. B. BOWDEN & CO. 

Makers of FINGER RINGS 

OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. 
1 NlAIDEN LANE, 

NEW YORK. 



Cor. BROADWAY. 






Fred. W. Lewis & Co. 



DIAMONDS, PEARLS 
RUBIES, EMERALDS 



I No. I MADDEN LANE , t 

I Corner Broadway NEW YORK | 

Operation, turning out watch cases for the market. Durinc^ 
March, 1899, ^^ turned out the largest number of watch cases he 
had ever done before. 

Not. only as a manufacturer, but also as a town builder, has 
Mr. Bates figured. In 1885 he built the Bates Opera House 
block, the handsomest and most commodious brick structure in 
the town, containing a theatre that is the peer of the average city 
theatre. He has also erected eight factories, and at the time of 
the great fire rented rooms to thirty-three tenants in the jewelry 
business. He has served as president of the First National Bank 
of Attleboro twenty-two years, and has been a trustee of the 
Savings & Loan Association, representing a capital of half a 
million, ever since it was established. Although Mr. Bates has 
been the corner stone of the town from an industrial point of 
view, he has not forced his way upon the platform of public life. 
Many times he has refused public honors when, urgently re- 
quested to accept theni. His acts of public and private philan- 
thropy are numberless, and will one day, without doubt, be en- 
graved in letters of gold on the corporate annalt of the coming 
city of Attleboro. 



A SUN DIAL EXHIBITION 

Toulouse has had the original idea to hold an exhibition next 
month of "sun dials," ancient and modern. The committee of 
management demands that they be informed of those buildings 
or monuments which tend to disappear, and that have sun dials 
on some part or parts of the building. The senders would oblige 
by supplying at same time a sketch or photo of the dials that 
cannot be loaned, and also a copy of any inscription connected 
therewith. It is from the Association of Retail Jewelers of Lon- 
don that the idea has arrived in France, for the watchmakers 
and jewelers to unite and constitute an insurance company for 
themselves and from among themselves. 



SCIENTIFIC AND INDUSTRIAL 

Our object under this head is not to deal with Scientific matters in an ab- 
stract or theoretical way, bat to give such particulars of Scientific facts as may 
be capable of adaptation to practical industrial uses. We shall point out, too, 
new developments and improvements in Scientific matters which win be useful 
to the craftsman and manufacturer, while the Industrial side of this depaitmeat 
will include notices of new tools, machinery and appliances. At all times we 
shall welcome communications from our readers who may have suggestions to 
offer on this head. 



SETTING OF TOOLS. 

The term "setting" (grinding) is applied to the operation ol 
giving an edge to the tools designed for cutting, scraping or saw- 
ing. Cutting tools are rubbed either on flat sandstones or on 
rapidly turned grindstones. The wear on the faces of the tools 
diminishes their thickness and renders the cutting angle sharper. 
Good edges cannot be 6btained except with the aid of the grind- 
stone; it is therefore important to select this instrument with 
care. It should be soft, rather than hard, of fine, smooth grain, 
perfectly free from seams or flaws. The last condition is essen- 
tial, for it ofiten happens that, uiKier the influence of the revolving 
motion, a defective stone suddenly yields to the centrifugal force, 
bursts and scatters its pieces with such violence as to wound the 
operator. This accident may also happen with perfectly formed 
stones. On this account artificial stones have been substituted, 
more homogeneous and coherent than the natural ones. 

Whatever may be the stone selected, it ought to be kept con- 
stantly moist during the operation. If not, the tools will soon 
get heated and their temper will be impaired. When a tool has 
for a certain time undergone the erosive action of the stone, the 
cutting ai\gle becomes too acute, too thin, and bends over on 
itself, constituting what is called "the feather edge." This con- 
dition renders a new setting necessary, which is usually cflfectcd 
by bending back the feather edge, if it is long, and whetting the 
blade on a stone called a "setter." There are several varieties of 
stones used for this purpose, though they are all composed of 
calcareous or argilaceous matter, mixed with a certain proportion 
of silex. 

The scythe-stone, of very fine grain, serves for grinding off 
the feather t&f^t of scythes, knives and other large tools. 

The Lorraine stone, of chocolate color and fine grrain, is cm- 
ployed with oil for carpenters' tools. 

The American stone, grayish yellow, is very erosive. It is 
used with water and with oil to obtain a very fine edge. 

The lancet stone is not inferior to any of the preceding. As 
its name indicates, it is used for sharpening surgical instruments, 
and only with oil. 

The Levant stone (Turkish sandstone) is the best of all for 
whetting. It is gray and semi-transparent; when of inferior 
quality, it is somewhat spotted with red. It is usually quite soft 

To restore stones and efface the inequalities and hollows 
caused by the friction of the tools, they are laid flat on a marWe 
or level stone, spread over with fine, well-pulverized sandstone, 
and rubbed briskly. 

When tools have a curved edge, they are subjected to a com- 
position formed of pulverized stone, molded into a form con- 
venient for the xroncavity or convexity. Tools are also whetted 
with slabs of walnut or aspen wood coated with emery of diflfer- 
ent numbers, which produces an excellent setting. 



Tempering Steel Wire.— To attain a uniform tendering of 
steel wire, the manner of annealing is of the greatest import- 
ance, and special care should be taken to see that all parts are 
exposed to equally high temperature. The "Dcutsch Uhrmacher 
Zeitung" says: "This is accomplished in a simple way, by passing 
the steel wire through a lead bath heated to 700-800* C. Often 
it has previously been coated with whiting ground with water to 
keep off any oxides forming on the lead. In this manner the 
steel wire is uniformly heated throughout. According to whether 
it is desired hard like glass or springy, the cooling is conducted 
in water or in oil. In case the chalk coating does not crack oflf 
by itself after the cooling, it can be readily rubbed off." 



Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



April 26, 1899. 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



SI9 




IBntered at the Post Office in the City of New York as second-class matter.] 



THOMAS JACOB, Editor and Publisher. 



Address all Communications to The Jewelers Review, 
176 AND 17a Broadway, Cor. Maiden Lane, New York. 



Vol. XXXII 



APRIL 26, 1899 



No. 17 



NOTICE 

In answer to the man/ letters received at this office^ and to save un- 
necessary corre^ondence and delay^ we wish to state tfcat this paper 
has no conoection whatever with J. J. Fogerty or with Fogfrl/s 
lewelers Directory. 



The Jewelers Review is issued regularly everj' week and will put forth 
every effort to furnish the best and latest^ news and information concerning 
jewelers, gold and silversmiths, horologists, opticians ani allied industries. 
Persons interested in these trades will confer a great favor by sending us 
the news of their localities and their, views respecting the manufacture or 
treatment of any articles in the above lines. It is absolutely necessary 
that the name and address of the writer should accompany each communi- 
cation, not necessarily for publication but as a guarantee of good faith. 

Correspondents asking questions requiring answers through the col- 
umns of the Jewelers Review will state the information desired plainly 
and in as few words as possible. All answers will be published as promptly 
as the nature of the enquirj^and the pressure of business will permit. Read, 
ers need have no hesitancy in asking questions on any subject in which they 
are interested consistent with the nature of this publication. 



SUBSCRIPTION RATES 

Two Dollars per annum in advance. One Dollar for six months, postage 
prepaid to any point in the United States, Mexico or Canada. Single 
copies ten cents each. 

Poreign 3alMcrlptlons —To countries within the postal union, postage pre- 
paid. Three Dollars and Fifty Cents per annum in advance 

Subscribers changing their address should state the old one as well as the 
new to insure p'oper delivery of the paper. 



THE JEVELERS REVIEV ABROAD 

Copies of this paper can be found in Europe at Holborn Viaduct and the 
Royal Hotels, London. Herald office and hotels L'Athenee and Grand 
Terminus, Paris The Amstel Hotel, Amsterdam, St. Antoine and the 
Continental Hotels, Antwerp. 



ADVERTISING RATES 

will be furnished on application. Under the new management 
the circulation of The Jewelers Review has steadily increased 
until it practically covers the entire jewelry and allied trades. 
Advertisers will find that there is no better medium to reach the 
trade than The Jewelers Review. 

Advertisements to insure insertion in the next issue should 
reach this office not later than Saturday. 



COMMUNICATIONS SOUCITED 

Space will always be reserved in the Jewelers Review for news i:ems of 
interest to the trade, such as changes ia place of business, co-partnerships, 
dissolutions and the movements of traveling representatives and buyers. 

Jewelers contemplating a trip to New York can have their mail ad- 
dressed to this office, where it will be held until called for, or forwarded 
to any other address if desired. 



Among the many evidences of the steady 
Improved improvement in trade upon which we are con- 

Accommodation gratulating ourselves is the fact that sq many 
in "the Lane" firms are finding that the premises which have 
sufficed them to the present time do not now 
meet the added demands for space and accommodation. This is 
just the season for removals, and our pages have chronicled the 
news that quite a number of firms in Maiden Lane have changed 
their addresses and moved into larger quarters, while others an- 
nounce the same intention. The large office buildings which 
have sprung up on "the Lane" within the past decade are rapidly 
filling and evidences are not wanting that others will very soon 
take the place of the old-fashioned houses which are still to be 
seen on the street. The accommodation in these new buildings 
is of the highest order, as our readers have been able to judge 
from the illustrations and description we have given of the offices 
of some of the jewelry fifms in these buildings. Nothing is lack- 
ing which will facilitate the transaction of business and we take 
it as a sign of the times that so many firms are recognizing this 
fact and taking advantage of these opportunties for development. 

In our issue of the 19th we referred edito- 
Promoters and daily to the recent rumors of a consolidation 
Capitalists of watch case and watch movement makers, 

which, upon careful investigation proved to be 
nothing else than rumor itself, pure and simple. It was as it were 
the report of the first gun fired by the promoters, which, no 
doubt, hit the mark aimed at insomuch as it set the trade a-talk- 
ing. Having sounded the sentiment of the trade, it is for them 
now to judge whether the expressions of opinion brought forth 
are such as to warrant them proceeding further with reasonable 
prospect of success. As we have said, the business of promoting 
has now almost assumed the dignity of a profession. This leads 
up to a very interesting question, often asked and always inter- 
esting, but seldom satisfactorily answered. Whither are we 
drifting? 

If promoting is a business of itself, is it not also true that the 
capitalist has evolved a new profession out of the business of 
being a rich man? One is led to inquire who is the manufacturer 
to-day? What has become of him? Formerly he was recog- 
nized as the owner of an industrial enterprise. To-day he has 
either disappeared entirely or is relegated to a position of a sala- 
ried employee of the great corporation. The owners are the 
monied men. They know nothing of the practical working of 
their own institutions, and they care nothing about them so long 
as the annual returns show fair margins on their investments. 
Industrial stocks have only become general of recent years. 
There was a time within the recollection of the average middle- 
aged business man of to-day when investors in industrial enter- 
prises were rare. The capitalist of those days confined his opera- 
tions chiefly to financial institutions and to the larger carrying 
or transportation companies; but as wealth accumulated it be- 
came necessary to find other channels of investment, so gradu- 
ally the industrials have become almost the main features of the 
stock exchanges of America. 



The Grculation of 

THE JEWELERS REVIEW 
FOR ISSUE OF APRIL \9 was 10^242 COPIES 
- - - J2 was 10,072 " 

•' " - 5 was 9,903 " 

The avefage weekly circulation 
DURING MARCH WAS - 10,020 COPIES 

** FEBRUARY WAS 10,021 *' 
Our post office and other receipts are open to the inspection of 
those who desire to verify this statement. 



Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



520 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 26, 1899. 



OUR MOTTO- I 

'* Honest Goods and Honest Dealings V | 




ROSENBAUM & ADLER 
MPo.Tt..oF Diamonds 



FAC , «** I : 
NEWARK, N. J. 



AND MANUFACTURERS OF 

DIAMOND JEWELRY 
& MOUNTINGS. 

03 Nassau St., N. Y, 




KOVELTIES K SPECIALTY. ,^^^_ 

ZELLER, WOLF & BRO. 

MANUPAOTUMRt AND IMPOflTEIW OF 

Fine Velvet, Plusk^Morocco Cases 

FOR lEWELRY AND SILVERWARE 
Tra)« of Cvary D — c ri pC— for Travvlara* Cmm. SImiw 



75 and 77 NASSAU STREET 



PAHN ■OXU, LIATHER NOVELTIU, CAIIO OAAEt, 
MM AMD Rm »AM, tAM^l OARM, CTO. 



NEW YORK 



from 38 MAIDEN LANE to 

61 NASSAU ST. 



REMOVED 
S. & S. DRUIFF, Z^^ 

Headquarters for 

AM. OPT. CO. and BAUSCH & LOHB WARES 

5 VORK A SPECIALTY 

I"! NORTHERN ILLINOIS COLLEGE 

: OF : 

OPHTHALMOLOGY AND OTOLOGY, 

MASONIC TEMPLBt CHICAGO, 

Have issued an attractive Announcement with full description of Attend- 
ant. Poat-Qraduate, and Corrcapoadeat Coarsaa, which will be mailed on 



application 

You can begin y< 

mas awarded. Add 



, oar conne at any tlma. 

dress 



Degrees conferred and Diplo- 



G. W. McFATRICH. M.D., Secretary. 

1015 MASONIC TEMPLE, CHICAQO 



VffuT"-^^ 




CURES AIL EYE DISEASES 
INFIAMEO EYEa SCALES ON LIO 

GRANULATION ETa 
By nail. 60 etntt. 



YOUR 

Optical Department 

is not complete without 

MURINE.*** 

Send for circulars and tes- 
timonials. Your Jobber has 
MURINE, if not, order direct. 

$3* SO per Doinn. 
An Up-to-Datb Rbmbdy. 
MURINE CO^ fliMonIc Temple, Chicago. 



LEBRECHT FRITZSCHE 

Engraver, Die Sinker and Tool Maker 

Special Attentiou to MEDALLION and BADGE WORK. 
73 Hamilton Street, NEVARK, N. J. 



HOW TO INCREASE YOUR TRADE 

This is a question that is continually before the mind of every business 
man. In this department we shall endeavor to answer it for him. There axe 
a thousand and one different ways in which it can he done, but it takes time 
to think them out, and time nowadays means money. Under this head will 
be found hints and suggestions from those who make it their business to 
evolve new ideas, and in whatever department of the trade you may he en- 
gaged, this column will not only interest you, but will put dollars in your 
pocket. 

ADVERTISINQ AN AID TO BUSINESS. 

CONDUCTED BY J. W. SCHWARTZ. 

To whom all communications must be addressed. 
This department is open to all readers of The Jewelers Rrview, who are in- 
vited to submit advertising matter of any and all descriptions oh which they 
will receive^ without any charge^ the advice of tlu Editor^ who will at aU times 
welcome correspondence on the subject. 

Remember that the space which you buy costs money. Don't 
you think that it will pay to fill that space to the best advantage? 

Select same special face of type and stick to it through thick 
and thin. After awhile people will learn to recognize your ad as 
soon as they see it, even without the name. 

Nine-tenths of businesses ought to be proveded with a full 
complement of business literature, circulars, folders, brochures, 
booklets and pamphlets. 

Invite people to send for these in your newspaper ads, and 
hand them over your counters when they call. 

Be careful not to be too "funny." A "funny" ad is a two- 
edged weapon. Even a catch-line may sometimes be injudi- 
cious. 

Do not select a medium because the price is low. Study to 
see if its circulation reaches the class you desire. 

If you guarantee any article, have your guarantee so plain that 
there can be no possible doubt as to its meaning. 

Remember that the purpose of an ad is to sell goods. An ad 
may look bright and be pleasing, but its object should be kept in 
view. 

Do not have too many kinds of type in your ad. The fewer 
there are the better it will look, and certainly the appearance of 
an ad is a great essential. 

Use scare-heads with great moderation. Your head-line should 
be bold, but one head-line is usually sufficient. 

Borders are to be used with considerable discretion, and their 
kind is to be largely determined by the class of goods. In the 
jewelry line, on display ads, a dainty delicate border may be 
used to great effect. But a heavy border would on general prin- 
ciples be out of place. So, too, no ad, for instance, could by any 
possibility stand a heavy border, a big black cut and a scare- 
head.. That would be too much. 

Strive to keep away from stereotyped phrases. So many of 
these by continual use, have come to carry absolutely no weight 

The function of the head-line is to attract the attention, but it 
should always have a sensible relation to the body of the ad. 

Always give arguments. Mere statements carry little weight 

The reason why the mention of a price in an ad carries so 
much weight is because it inspires confidence; it shows that you 
do not fear to invite comparison, and that you are conducting 
your business on a business basis. 

In every way possible, indicate in your ad, that you are eager 
to please your customer; that you are always ready to show your 
goods, and that every courtesy will be extended to shoppers, 
even if they do not intend to become buyers. It costs you noth- 
ing to show such a spirit, and it may result in winning much 
trade. 

There are many more phases of advertising which may suggest 
themselves, but for the present let these suffice. 

Here is an ad clipped from an afternoon daily. 

Dr. Blank's 

COUCH SYRUP 

Will cure a Cough or Cold at once. 

It positively relieves all throat troubles. Small 
doses. Price 25 cents at druggists. 

Although not by any means a thing of beauty, it is none the 
less, all things considered, an uncommonly strong ad. 
(To be continued.) 



Digitized by 



Coogle 



April 26, 1899. 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



521 



[The name DUEBER, or the Dueber Trade Mark, on a watch or Watch Case, is a 
guarantee that it is the best of its kind. The name Dueber, or the Dueber Trade Mark, 
on Gold or Silver Watch Cases, is recognized all over the United States, as good as 
the Hall Mark of England. 

Upon this impregnable foundation of honesty and reliability. The Dueber Co. has 
built up its immense business.] 




Dueber 
Hampden 







Special Railway, 23 



New Railway, 17 Jewel. 





For Gentlemen's use we recommend 

THE "BIG SIX" 

Special Railway 23 Jewel 

New Railway 23 

John Hancock 21 

New Railway 17 

John C. Dueber Special ... 17 

Dueber Grand 17 




New Railway, 23 Jewel. 



Jdm C Daeber bpeciai, 17 Jewel. 

For Ladies' use we recommend the smallest watch made in America, called 

"THE 400" 

either O. F. or Htg. with second hand. This Watch is made only by this Company. 

Cases for the above in 

18 Karat Solid Gold, 
14 Karat Solid Gold, 
14 Karat Gold Filled. 

Always on hand or made to special order. 




The Dueber Watch Works, 

at Canton, Ohio, 

form the finest and most complete Watch Plant in 
the world. The twin factories manufacture both 
Watch Movements and Watch Cases. 




D«eber GraiMl, 17 Jewel. 



BEWARE OF IMITATIONS, OR WATCHES SOLD UNDER SIMILAR NAMES. 



Digitized by VnOOQ iC 



522 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 26, 1899. 




This deiMutment is deyoted to practical and theoretical articles relating to 
the science and stady of optics, and will be sustained by able writers on this 
subject. Under this head will be published full reports of meetings of the 
several optical societies, as wen as all news of interest to opticians, together 
with copies of lectures and other papers relating to optics. 

Subscribers are invited to send questions on matters on which 
they desire information. These will be answered through our 
columns, which are also open for the ventilation of all phases of 
Optical opinion. 



Communications Should be Addressed Optical Department, 
The Jewelers Review, 170 & 172 Broadway, New York. 

L. L. Ferguson, Editor. 



Vol. XXXII 



APRIL 26, 1899 



No. 17 



Acknowledgment 
of Articles. 



The field of Optics has been so thoroughly 
threshed and gleaned by such an endless 
amount of writers that but little remains for 
the reader to browse upon that has not been 
worn threadbare by others. Of course, those 
that have the scientific spirit inherent within them stoically listen 
to repetitions uncomplainingly, knowing that knotty subjects by 
frequent repeatals often present to the student, the subject from 
a letter coign of vantage, and again those that are well versed in 
optics, should cheerfully bear the "burden" of frequent iteration, 
knowing that all students' measure of knowledge is not equal, 
and that what is news to one is not so to others. 

However, the supply of optical literature has measurably de- 
creased in the past year or so, whilst the demand has increased; 
and whilst a few years ago optical information was published de- 
sultorily, now there are quite a number of publications that de- 
vote more or less space to optometry. This condition has led up 
to the frequent "cribbing" of articles, which of itself is not so 
bad if the "cribber" would be so kind as to acknowledge the 
source of the article. 

This practice of pre-emption is as old as the hills as is humor- 
ously put by Kipling in the following quatrain. 

"When *Omer smote' is bloomin' lyre, 
He'd 'eard men sing by land an' sea; 

An' what he thought 'e might require, 
'E went an' took — ^the same as me." 

Now, there are two or three old offenders that have been help- 
ing themselves to our columns, without so much as once giving 
us credit in a single instance, and once to our recollection when 
an unspeakable typographical blunder was made, they swallowed 
the "whole thing, blunder and all." 

Now our columns are cheerfully open to all who see sufficient 
merit therein to copy, but please be fair and give us our dues by 
proper acknowledgement. 



REVIEWIOF PHOROSCOPE— II 

Mr. Fay evidently objects unqualifiedly to the criticism and 
review that appeared in our columns several weeks previous rela- 
tive to his new instrument for measuring muscular errors, and 
which is known as the "phoroscope." We divine that his rea- 
son for his rejoinder is not that the criticism or review was un- 
favorable, for it was not by straining its construction in any way 
whatsoever, but that he seems to be offended because our re- 
view was not an uninterrupted symphony of praise from prelude 
to postlude. 

The fact of the matter is that our ideas are almost invariably 
molded by usage and education, and considering this fact practi- 
cally all the papers that devote attenti-on to optical literature al- 
most invariably print the "copy" that is sent to them without 
saying yea or nay anent the theories therein advanced, and that 
reviews that they print, purporting to review books or instru- 
ments, are generally by the author or inventor himself. So no 
wonder that these reviewals are one grand sweet song un- 
punctuatedby sometimes rancorous truth, and to those that areac- 





1 




L ^*^-j 


P 
% 


■ ^SS!^ 


I 







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April 26, 1899. 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



523 



customed to this style of reviewing it comes as a shock to read 
that whidi is written in candor. 

The Review has in its short optical career received no less than 
five reviews (sic) of various optical appurtenances from the man- 
ufacturers or inventors of those inventions, asking us to print 
them, which we have refused to do; nevertheless those "efforts" 
did appear afterwards ad verbatim in the columns of some of our 
contenif)oraries. 

This form of reviewing has been inflicted upon opticians, is 
at present, and no doubt will continue for a measurable length of 
time until good and sufficient reasons stop it; but we do not care 
to be a party to it, at least not until our Pierian spring of infor- 
mation, through stress of intellectual drought, has dried up. 

So accustomed have the optical reading public become to this 
insipid style of reviewal that later inventors deem it a prerog- 
ative 6i theirs that only peans of praise should be voiced in refer- 
ring to their haindiwork, and Mr. Fay seems to be no exception 
to the rule, and manifests undue hypersensitiveness over what we 
consider a very just reviewal of his phoroscope. 

Every review that has been published in these columns has 
been the product of careful analysis, and not the results of being 
**glanced hastily" over; and furthermore they have been actuated 
in a Spirit of professional fairness. We certainly are human, 
therefore fallible; what we state are not other persons* deduc- 
tions, simply our own. 

It was our intention to give this instrument a favorable, dig- 
nified notice, the kind of a reviewal that would appeal to thinking 
opticians; but, shades of Damon and P)rthias! because we did not 
slop over with fulsome flattery, friend Fay's pride was wounded. 

To be more specific, we are charged with stating that the in- 
ventor stated that the instrument would correct 25 per cent, of all 
cases; but when others than himself pointed out that absurdity, 
the foolisihoess of it dawned upon him, but yet he did not recog- 
nize it as his own creation, because he vigorously denies that he 
said any such thing. Now, as a means of self-exculpation, we 
will quote the language on the back of his pamphkt: 

"First It enables the operator to prescribe more satisfactory 
glasses to 25 per cent, of his patients by adding prisms to the 
glasses for reading. 

"Second. It tells him that 75 per cent, of his patients do not 
need prisms, and saves him the possibility of making a mistake 
of prescribing prism for the correction of a spasm." 

Now, then, he makes the statement in proposition No. i 
which, when we quote, gives him umbrage, and in the second 
proposition the first statement is clinched by stating that the re 
mainder does not need prisms (75 per cent.). 

In reference to the two points of light which are viewed 
to the exclusion of everything else, the reviewer would state that 
it is a well-known fact among opticians that binocular vision is 
so intuitive in the human race that whenever two eyes, being 
simultaneously open, observe two points identically similar, 
such as two ink dots, two points of light, etc., etc., that there 
exists instantly a desire upon their part to fuse them into one 
image. This can be easily demonstrated by any binocular-vis- 
ioned person by making two pencil dots upon a card an eighth 
of an inch or so apart, or looking at two separate lights situ- 



44 



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15 



Digitized by VnOOQ iC 



5M 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 26, 1899. 



ated contiguous to each other in the distance. Now their homo- 
geny alone makes their eyes have a tendency to fuse them into 
one image. Maddox was aware of this inherent condition, and 
as he did not believe in the duction methods extant, and knowing 
that the plane dissociating prism would only partially divorce 
binocularity, and that there would be a desire still to fuse these 
two lights into one, that he devised what is known as the Mad- 
dox rod, the raison d'etre of which was that it would distort the 
light as viewed by one eye so as to make it unrecognizable by its 
mate, and thereby get an exact relative measurement of the eyes 
as evinced by their positions as allowed by the now quiescent 
muscles. Now the interposition of the red glass over -the con- 
cave lens for the left eye overcomes this tendency to quite an ex- 
tent, yet the desire is there, and we must say that in our opinion 
that desire is accentuated in the scope by virtue of the fact that 
the eyes only see two points of light surrounded by darkness, 
therefore under such circumstances the eyes would more easily 
assert their binocular functions than though the test was made in 
the bright light where there would be many observable things 
to distract from binocular desire. Of course this is predicated 
upon Mr. Fay's first theory of limp dissociatedness. According 
to the duction scheme the surrounding blackness is decidedly su- 
perior, because the lights are the only visible things, and the eyes 
will 'use them tenaciously despite the increasing of the prismatic 
virtue crowded on by the decentering of the ocular sphericals, 
convex and concave. 

The summa summarium of the whole review and its rejoinder 
is that while we gave due credit, as we thought, still we did not 
slop over sufficiently; at the same time we tempered our praise 
with a slight admonition anent the foolishness of absolutely de- 
markating between a fixed ratio as to who can and who cannot 
wear prisms, which the inventor avers that he did not, and which 
we prove by quoting him that he did. However, we only did 
that in a spirit of facetiousness, and considering the really very 
favorable review which we grave the instruments, we were really 
deserving of a better fate than to receive such a captious re- 
joinder. 

To extenuate our position, if, indeed, such is needful, we 
would say that The Review is not a journal or a magazine, but is 
a Review, not only in name, but in actuality, and as such, for the 
benefit of our readers, who expect independent criticisms and re- 
views, our policy in the future shall be but a continuance of the 
past. 



OF INTEREST TO OPTICAL LITERATI 

Two hundred dollars for the best article on "The Human Eye 
and How It Can Be Cared For" is one of twelve announcements 
which the "Cosmopolitan" makes to its readers this month. 
"Such essays should be in the hands of the editor of the 'Cosmo- 
politan' before August 20, 1899." 

It is a pity that the terms are announced in such a meagn'e 
manner; and whilst appreciating the spirit in which the "Cosmo- 
politan" has made this generous oflFer, yet we could not but have 
expected that some idea should have been put forth as to the 
length of the essay, etc. We fancy that it is going to be a diffi- 
cult job to determine that which will be the most meritorious: 
made of the varied literary effusions which this generous oflFer 
and while it is rather previous to judge of what disposition will be 
most assuredly will bring to light, yet we have no hesitancy in 
presuming that the essayist that possesses the most graceful liter- 
ary style will stand more chances of receiving th« prize than 
others whose erudition, so far as the eyes are concerned, is su- 
perior, yet lack the eleg^ance of what is termed "literary style" or 
polish. 

The oflFer certainly allows a "fair field and no favor" to all 
who have a theory or gospel to proclaim about the care of the 
human eye, for no restrictions are stated as to who or who not 
may contribute. It is sincerely to be hoped, as a matter of pro- 
fessional pride, that an optician will achieve the reward for the 
ethical aspect of the case. 

Without journalistic flattery, merely stating plain truths, we 
must state that of all the monthly periodicals, the "Cosmopoli- 



tan'* is more widely read and has a stronger hold upon its read- 
ers, and wields as much, if not more, potential influence than any 
other periodical of like character. The aiwarding of this prize, 
which, of course, will be very gratifying to the recipient, will not 
amount to a fig's worth in comparison witii the prestige and 
ethical influence it will have upon that class to which the succes:>- 
ful competitor belongs, to wit, non-medical or medical opticians. 
However, we should not predicate our prognosis with the as- 
sumption that this golden apple that hangs in Hesperides' gar- 
den ($200) is going to be plucked by either of the two classes 
that practice optometry; "dark horses" sometimes win, and who 
knows but what some 

"Gem of purest ray serene 
The dark unfathom'd caves of ocean bear,'* 

may shine out so brilliantly as to eclipse both our knowledge'and 
others' oretensions? 



THE CHALMER PRENTICE RETINOSCOPE 

The Review begs to acknowledge receipt of literature from 
the Geneva Optical Company of Chicago descriptive of a new 
instrument for the use of skiascopy, designed by Dr. Chalmer 
Prentice, of that city. 

As will be observed by the accompanying illustration, it con- 
sists of a parallel tube 20 inches long, at one end of which there 
is a skiascopic mirror fastened to a universal joint, thus allowing 
the optician to sweep the mirror in any meridian desired, yet 
always permitting the mirror to be at the proper angle to reflect 
the light. At the other 
end the ametrope's eye is 
situated, and by virtue of 
the tube which darkens 
the intervening space be- 
tween the operator and 
his client, a dark room is 
rendered unnecessary. 
Immediately above the 
lube and next to the ame- 
trope's head are two 
disks; in the periphery of 
each is situated a battery 
of lenses respectively 
ranging from 0.12 to .88 
D., both plus and minus, 
and from i.oo D. to 7.00 
D., plus and minus; the 
disks holding from .12 D. 
to .88 D. are merely sup- 
plementary to the disks 
from 1.00 to 7.00, and by their combined use any diptral power 
may be obtained from 0.12 D. down to 7.88 D. 

Considering that the working distance is invariably ao inches, 
this amount of apparent hypermetropia is provided for by a -}- 
2.00 D. lens, which is independent of the lenses in the disks, there- 
fore no deductions nor adductions will be necessary. 

Every skiascopist is more or less bothered by tantalizing re- 
flections caused when his eye becomes perpendicular to the plane 
of reflection upon the correcting lens, but in the instrument this 
defect is obviated by the lenses being tilted at a slight angle, and 
the reflections are still further obviated by the use of a diaphragm 
which can be used to eclipse those double reflections which arc 
particularly noticeable where strong degrees of convex lenses 
are used. 

The reviewer has one of the instruments in his office, and 
after about a month's use of the same will write an article upon 
its use, practicability, etc. 

The instrument will be ready for general delivery about the 
20th inst. The price is $45. 




THB CHALlCaS PRBNTICB BBTIN08C0PB. 



There are three kinds of anisometropia: (i) where both eyes 
fix at once and binocular vision exists; (2) where each eye b 
used alternately; (3) where one eye only is used, the other being 
permanently excluded. 



Digitized by VnOOQ iC 



April 26, 1899. 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



525 



AN EXPLANATION 

We have received the following letter from A Koenen & Bro., 
81 Nassau street, New York, in reference to the description and 
illustration of an eyeglass case made in burnished copper, which 
appeared in our columns last week under the title of "Unique 
Designs in Jewelry:" 
The Jewelers* Review. 

Gentlemen: We notice that in The Jewelers* Review of April 
10, there is an article in reference to a burnished copper eyeglass 
case, with a cut of the same accompanying it. 

Now, Mr. Annen, of Chicago, is credited with making this 
case, when as a matter of fact it is one of our patent cases, which 
we have been making for a number of years. 

This particular case in question was struck up by us in Octo* 
her, 1898, for a gentleman in Chicago, at his request, for his 
personal use. He furnished us with the copper to be used. 

There is no doubt that Mr. Annen decorated it, and deserves 
credit for his neat work. 

W^e wish to say that if this case is not the one we made, Mr. 
Annen becomes liable, as it is convered by two U. S. patents. 

Trusting you will do all that is in your power to correct this 
error, we are, respectfully, A. KOENEN & BRO., 




Artistically Ornamented Koenen Case. 

W^hile, as Messrs. Koenen say, Mr. Annen is justly entitled to 
credit for the ornamentation of the case which we reprint, it 
is but fair that the patentees of these conveniently designed cases 
should receive due acknowledgement for their share of the work. 



OPTICAL NOTES 

At the April meeting of the New England Association of 
Opticians Herman L. Klein delivered an address upon the oph- 
thalmoscope. 

Rumored New Company for Optical Goods. — A special de- 
spatch from Worcester to a Boston paper announces that a 
company is about to be organized in that city for the manufac- 
ture of optical goods, and it is expected that its operations will 
be carried out on a scale large enough to control the trade 
of the country. Financial backing is said to be ready. A. W. 
Tiffany, one of the men interested, says plans have been thor- 
onghly discussed and decided upon and that incorporation will 
be effected in a few days. He said that the industry is one of 
the few in the country that is not overdone by competition, and 
that the market for the product is always brisk. According to 
the plans formulated nothing but the rims and frames for eye- 
glasses and spectacles will be manufactured. Gold, silver and 
aluminum will be the metals used. There is but one large cor- 
poration in the country manufacturing optical goods — the Amer- 
ican Optical Company, of Southbridge, Mass.. which employs 
on an average 1,100 hands. Mr. Tiffany says the new company 
will start with about 400 hands, but that the factory will be built 
for the accommodation of 1,500 employees. 

Little credence is placed by Boston optical people in the above 
story. Mr. Kirstein, of the firm of Andrew J. Lloyd & Co., who 
"has just returned from an extended tour among the trade, says 
that the proposition is ridiculous. The new company woulcj 
bave as competitors not only the American Optical Company, at 
Southbridge, but the equally large concern of Bausch & Lomb, 



at Syracuse, as well as numerous small manufacturers. The two 
concerns named manufacture fully 85 per cent, of the optical 
goods made in this country, so that a company to compete with 
them would have to be of large proportions and begin business 
under exceptionally favorable conditions. It is also an error to 
say that the business is 'lot overdone by competition,, for com- 
petition in the business is very keen, and there is the same dis- 
position to cut prices as there is in all other lines of business. 

Dr. H. M. Martin, president of the Chicago Ophthalmic Col- 
lege, has moved his downtown office to another room on the 
same floor of the Columbus Memorial building. He now occu- 
pies room 1007. 



NEW YORK STATE OPTICIANS 

The fifth annual meeting of the New York State Association of 
Opticians was held at the "Yates," Syracuse, N. Y., on Wednes- 
day, April 19. 

After the regular routine of business the president delivered 
his farewell address, and the election of officers for the ensuing 
year followed, resulting as follows: President, Fred Hamilton, 
Oswego, N. Y. ; vice-president, H. S. Fuller, Syracuse. N. Y.; 
recording secretary, A. W. Colder, Seneca Falls, N. Y.; financial 
secretary, W. P. Hillick, Fulton; treasurer, C. B. Hibbard. Pu- 
laski: librarian, H. C. Watts, Syracuse; Board of Directors. Fred. 
Robbins, Elmira; C. J. Fuller, Phoenix; Miss Viola Russell, 
Weedsport; Investigating Committee, G. H. P. Stone, Illion; 
G. M. Babbitt, Syracuse. The president appointed Rev. B. Brun- 
ning, of Elmira, to act as reporter for trade papers. 

At the evening session of the Association an excellent paper 
on amblyopia, prepared by L. L. Ferguson, was read before the 
society. The paper was well received and a special vote of thanks 
was extended to Mr. Ferguson. The Rev. B. Brunning then 
read a paper on spectacle frames and their proper adjustment. 
During the proceedings W. J. O'Hare, of Carmillus, and E. L. 
Wheeler, of Mannsville, were elected to membership. As the 
Association comprises New York State opticians only, two ap- 
plications from outside States were rejected. Mr. Burgess, 
of New York City, attended the meeting as a guest. 



CUSTOMS 

Under this head we give weelily t resume of the shipments and receipts relating 
to the trades covered by this paper, at the Port of New Yorli, as well as the National 
Monthly Report, containing statistics of the imports and exports. We also cover 
reappraisements of imports and the decisions of the Treasury Department relating 
to imported goods. 

REAPPRAISEMENTS OF MERCHANDISE 
The following decisions of interest to the trade were handed 
down by the Board of General Appraisers last week: 

5090 O. P. Boston.— Decorated china, from Carl Moritz, Ilmenau, Jan- 
2, 1899. Entered at discounts lo per cent., 5 per cent., and 2^ per cent., 
advanced to discounts lo per cent, and 5 per cent. Ada cases. 

20740.— Decorated china, from H. Proschold, Grafenthal, Feb. 23, 18^. 
Decorated figuren, entered at 1, advanced to 1.50 marks per dozen. Dis- 
count 5 per cent. Add case. 

20730. — Decorated china, from Schafer — Vater, Rudolstadt, Feb. 27, 
1899. Figures decore, seconds, entered at i, advanced to r.50 marks per 
dozen. Trays decore, seconds, entered at i and 1.75, advanced to 1.50 and 
2.50 marks per dozen. Add packing and cases. 

5096/7 O. P., Newport News. — Decorated earthenware, from . 

Tunstall, Tan. 17 and l-eb. 17, 1899. Flow Delft, "Louvre," seconds "La 
Touraine, etc., entered at discounts 62V2 per cent., 5 per cent, and 5 per 
cent. ; no advance. 

20792. — Decorated earthenware, from Fredrich Goldschcider, Wien, 
March 4, 1899. Entered at discounts of 10 per cent., 10 per cent, and 5 per 
cent. ; advanced to discounts of 10 per cent, and 5 per cent. 

20,485.— Cut glassware, from J. Schreiber & NeflFen, Josephstahl, Jan. 8, 
1899. 4-i§o fiaschen It. gl. muft; entered at 24 florins each. No adance. 
Add packin 



packmg. 



QUERIES AND TRADE NOTES. 



In this department will appear answers to all correepondence and queries that 
are of general interest and miscellaneous items and comments on matters in con 
nection with the trade. 

The Dueber Watch Case Mfg. Co., at Canton, Ohio, are 
closing out their stock of high grade wheels at $30 each. This 
is a rare chance for any one to get a wheel at probably less than 
cost of manufacture, and also the best made bicycle in America. 




A SAMPLE OF VORK DONE ON 

Tbe Eaton-Engle EngraYing Machine 

SEND FOR BOOKLET. 

BiTOR-fiLOVER CO., Ill Hassan St., New York. 



New York Mutoal Optical Companjf 

REMOVED TO 9 MAIDEN UNE, 



EDWIN BBCKWITH, 
Manacer. 



NEW YORK. 



Digitized by VjOOQ IC 



526 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 26, 1899. 



MIDDLE ATLANTIC STATE NEWS. 

FROM OUR SPECIAL CORRESPONDENTS. 

Under this heading will be found week by week Business News, Interest- 
ing and useful personal items from the States of New Tork, New Jersey, 
Pennsylvania, Hiuyland, Delaware and the Virginias. We shall be glad to 
receive from our readers for insertion in this column, notices of removal and 
business changes of all kind. Such notes should reach us not later than- 
Monday aMoiing in each week. 

NEW YORK 

The New York Mutual Optical Company has removed from 59 
to 9 Maiden Lane. 

The C. F. Munroe Company are now located in their new 
quarters at 2S Barclay street. 

Conrad Schickerling, formerly with Powers & Mayer, 208 
Fifth avenue, is now located in the Gill building, 13 Maiden 
Lane. He will carry a line of pearls, diamonds and precious 
stones. 

J. A. Becker, manufacturer of gold rings, 93 Green street, 
Newark, N. J., will remove May i to 481 Washington street. 

Simpson, Hall, Miller & Co., have just completed a very ele- 
gant gold chalice for Rev. J. M. Murphy, of Nova Scotia, who 
purchased it for the Trappist monastery. It is valued at $1,800. 
It is about ten inches in height and weighs a trifle over twenty- 
eight ounces. Sixty-five diamonds were used in decorating the 
base and standard of the chalice. On the base appears a hand- 
chased wreath of grape vines and fruit, above which is a cross 
bearing eighteen diamonds in ground settings. A large opal 
surrounded by twenty diamonds occupy the space opposite the 
cross, a turquoise and gold topaz and two opals surrounded by 
diamonds are also set on the base. In the center of the stand- 
ard is a globe in which are set two large amethysts, while two 
rosettes bearing large rubies occupy the other side. The cup of 
the chalice is of wheat and grain pattern, signifying bread and 
wine. A removable cup surmounts the whole. 

Among the decisions handed down by the Board on Classifica- 
tion of the Board of General Appraisers on Saturday was that 
of Leeder & Bernkoff, Providence, R. I. The goods consist of 
faceted spheres composed of garnet, amethyst, crystal and other 
substances, and are in the form of unstrung beads. They were 
assessed for duty at 35 per cent., ad valorem under the provision 
for "beads of all kinds, not threaded or strung" in paragraph 
4081, act of 1897, and were claimed to be dutiable at 10 per cent, 
ad valorem under the provision for precious stones in paragraph 
435. The board held that the provision for beads above quoted, 
is more specific than that for "garnet" or "crystal" in paragraph 
115, or than that for precious stones in paragraph 435. Their 
protest was accordingly overruled and the assessment for duty 
affirmed. 

Moore & Co., formerly at 359 Mulberry street, are now located 
in the new and modern factory building, 22 Green street, Newark. 
N. J. Their new quarters are spacious, well lighted and equipped 
with labor saving devices. In addition to their well known line 
of rings Moore & Co. are now making a popular line of gold 
heart charms of which they will be pleased to send samples to 
jobbers. 

The Police Department of Hoboken city, has for some time 
past, been receiving complaints from local jewelers of thefts of 
watches. Jeweler Beerwald, of Fifth street, complained a few 
days ago that a number of watches had been stolen from his 
store. Detectives Weinthal and Fallon were detailed to work 
on the case with the result that Robert Bohnert, aged 18, of 82 
Grand street, has been arrested and held for trial. 

William W. Thompson, a well known jeweler of Passaic, N. 
J., was arrested last week on complaint of Stephen Koran, a 
saloon-keeper. Thompson has been conducting a "watch club" 
and Koran, with another person, claims that they paid him $50 
but have failed to receive anything in return. Thompson has 
also been sued by a young woman, who claims that in February, 



1898, she borrowed $3 from him, givmg her watch as security. 
When she returned the amount of her loan and asked for her 
watch Thompson claimed that he knew nothing about the trans- 
action. 

Judge Gildersleeve, sitting in part 6, Supreme Court, has ren- 
dered a decision in the case of William F. Doll, recently arrested 
for riding a bicycle upon the Speedway. The judge ruled that 
section 10 as amended by chapter 8 of the laws of 1894, covering 
the matter in question, provides that aside from the sidewalks 
and bridges or subways for the use of boat passengers, no por- 
tion of the said driveway shall be used for any other purpose than 
for "riding by equestrians and driving of carriages." He thus 
denies the right of Mr. Doll to ride a bicycle upon the Speed- 
way. The case will be appealed. 

Dr. J. E. I'opeano, a practicing physician at 259 Fourth street, 
Hoboken, N. J., has sent a complaint to the Hudson County 
Board of Health, charging that a number of opticians in the 
county are doing the work of physicians in the treatment of 
the eyes. 

The doctor sent with his complaints, a number of advertise- 
ments of the opticians in question, which he had clipped from the 
Hoboken papers, and which he claims clearly show the nature 
of the work being done by the opticians complained of. 

To a Review reporter the doctor made the following state- 
ment. He said: **I believe much injury is being wrought to 
the public by many of these so-called opticians, and that they 
should be made to go before the State Board of Medical Ex- 
aminers and pass an examination the same as any other spe- 
cialist." 

One optician, in particular, has aroused the doctor's ire 
through an advertisement inserted in the daily papers containing 
a cut of the optician treating the eye of a patient by applying 
a liquid preparation. This, he claims, is a clear violation of the 
statute. 

F. G. Burgess, for the past ten years with John Scheidig & 
Co., will, in future, represent the Standard Optical Company of 
Geneva, N. Y., both in this city and on the road. He is seeking 
quarters in the Gill building. 

Three well-dressed boys, John Gerrity of 161 Seventh avenue, 
W'illiam Murphy of 46 Downing street and John Ryken of 824 
West Sixteenth street, were arraigned in Jefferson Market Po- 
lice Court before Magistrate Deuel Monday morning on the 
charge of breaking into the jewelry store of W. Rosen, at 59 
Eighth avenue, Sunday night, and stealing $20 worth of watch 
movements and watch chains. 

F. W. Lewis of F. W. Lewis & Co., 24 John street, will sail 
for Europe next week. He will return sometime in June. 

George W. Halske & Co., jewelers, have removed from 10 to 
16 Maiden Lane. 

The case of Foley vs. Jackson was argued by counsel before 
Judge Keogh in Part 4 of the Supreme Court, last Tuesday 
morning. After instructing the attorneys to present briefs he 
announced that he would render a decision in the matter in a 
few days. 

Ludwig Nissen of L. Nissen & Co., 18 John street, is confined 
to his home by illness. 

Reese & Brown, manufacturers of silver novelties, have re- 
moved from 21 Maiden Lane to room 906 Gill Building. 

John F. McDonnell, traveling representative for the Meriden 
Bronze Company, has been appointed to the charge of the con- 
cern's New York business at 30 Park Row. 

J. J. McGane, dealer in watches and jewelry, 187 Broadway, 
is in Waltham, Mass., on business. 

Isidor Straus, of L. Straus & Sons, accompanied by his fam- 
ily, has gone to Europe, and will be absent several months. Mr. 
Straus' tour is solely for pleasure and recreation. 

Henry Bohm, of Bohm-Bristol Diamond Company, Denver. 
Colo., who was in town last week, sailed for Europe on the 
Kocni<Tin Linse, Thursday. 



The 



Mercantile National Bank 

OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK, 

BROADWAY AND DEY STREET, 

Solicits Accounts from the Jewelry Trade. 



Digitized by 



Google 



April 26, 1899. 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



527 



Miller Brothers, manufacturing opticians, 1213 Broadway, will 
occupy their new quarters, Sixth avenue and West Thirty-fourth 
street. May i. 

A relic of the late war is exhibited in the window of Mrs. T. 
Lynch, i Union square. It is a watch and chain taken from the 
sunken warship "Maria Theresa." 

The stock of the Barrios Diamond Company, 415 Canal street, 
has been removed to Goldsoll's Diamond Palace, East Four- 
teenth street, and will be closed out at once. 

Last night at a gathering of the Orpheus Club of Newark, at 
Davis' Restaurant, Newark, N. J., a presentation of a fine bronze 
candelabra was made to Mr. C. C. Champenois, of Champenois 
& Co., of 50 Walnut street, Newark. Mr. Champenois has for 
the past five years acted as vice-president to the club, and dur- 
ing this period has been untiring in his efforts to promote its 
success. In a neat speech Mr. Champenois thanked the mem- 
bers of the club, and, after he had concluded, a presentation of 
a pair of diamond sleeve links was made to Mr. Charles Neussle, 
of Messrs. Sisserson & Neassle, engravers, as secretary of the 
club for the past ten years. 

Theodor Lexow, dealer in diamonds and precious stones, has 
removed from 195 Broadway to 14 John street. 

A lady's gold watch marked "L. F. W.," found in the Windsor 
Hotel ruins, was received at Police Headquarters Thursday. 

John Smith, a driver employed by Julius Levy, dealer in china 
and glass, 49 Ainslee street, Brooklyn, who was arrested for 
stealing $101.35, the proceeds of a sale, was discharged by Judge 
Cowing last Thursday. The discharge was granted out of con- 
sideration for Smith's family, who would necessarily suffer by 
his imprisonment. 

The following information as to the number of packages ex- 
amined at the Appraisers' Stores from March 4 to April 15, 1899, 
and for the same time during 1898 and 1897, has been furnished 
by Appraiser Wilbur F. Wakeman: From March 4 to April 15, 
1899, total number of packages examined, 88,464; daily average 
examined, 2,130. Same time during 1898, 68,576 packages; daily 
average, 1,632. For 1897, 66,958 packages; daily average, 1,594- 
The number of invoices received during March 1899 was greater 
by 5,265 than those received during the same time in 1898. and 
greater by 3,747 than those received for 1897. 

The Police Department have nearly $10,000 worth of jewelry, 
silverware and diamonds on exhibition at the East Fifty-first 
street station, awaiting identification. It was taken from the 
ruins of the Windsor Hotel. 

A young man entered the jewelry store of J. Hebald, 250 Bow- 
ery, Saturday night, and asked to be shown some diamond studs. 
He selected one costing $260, and offered a U. S. gold bond of 
$500 denomination. After examining the bond Hebald decided it 
to be all right, and gave the man $240 change in bills. Detec- 
tives Wade and McCarthy, of the Central Office, saw the trans- 
action and were suspicious that something was wrong and placed 



the man under arrest. Upon investigation it was learned that 
the bond had been stolen on Friday last from Mrs. M. Brown, 
of 211 Wyckoff street, Brooklyn. When taken before Magis- 
trate Pool he said his name was William Brown. The magis- 
trate turned him over to the Brooklyn authorities. 

Appraiser Wakeman has received permission from the Depart- 
ment at Washington to be represented by counsel at the investi- 
gation being carried on in his department by the Merchants' 
Association. 

F. Kaufman has removed from 41 Maiden Lane to 567 Broad- 
way. 

The International Silver Company are fitting up handsome 
offices, which will occupy the entire third floor of the building 
9-1 1- 13 Maiden Lane. After May i the following concerns, 
which have been absorbed by this company, will be located at 
the above address: Meriden Britannia Company, "1849" Rogers 
Bros., "Star" Rogers & Bro., the Rogers & Hamilton Company, 
Simpson, Hall, Miller & Co., Watrous Manufacturing Company, 
William Rogers Manufacturing Company, the Barbour Silver 
Company, Wilcox Silver Plate Company, Meriden Silver Plate 
Company, Rogers, Smith & Co., the Holmes & Edwards Silver 
Company, and the Derby Silver Company. 

"Star" Rogers & Bro. are occupying temporary quarters at 
Dey street, where they will remain until alterations are com- 
pleted at their new location in the Gill Building. 

A smooth-tongued young Englishman was arrested by the 
New York police recently for swindling a number of the whole- 
sale dry goods houses of this city. He described himself as 
Frederick King, 24 years old, a salesman of 248 West Sixty- 
fourth street. When taken before Magistrate Kudlich, he was 
remanded to Police Headquarters for further investigation, with 
the result that he has been identified by Detective Larkins, of 
the Gorham Manufacturing Company, as Frank Willis, alias F. 
W. Eastman, whom the detective arrested in 1892 for obtaining a 
bill of goods from the Gorham Company, paying for same with 
a draft that proved to be worthless. Further investigation 
brought to light the fact that he had a short while ago secured a 
diamond ring worth $300 from Thomas Kirkpatrick, a Fifth ave- 
nue jeweler, and the police believe that others will yet be heard 
from. 

His plan of work was to visit the various business houses and, 
introducing himself as a member of some well known firm, place 
a large order. He would soon return, saying that he desired to 
make some change in the order given, and then request the con- 
cern to cash a worthless check. 

When arrested by Detective Mahony he was endeavoring to 
get a check for $50 cashed. 

King or Eastman, or whatever his name is, was sentenced to 
ten years in States Prison by Judge Cowing, in Part i of the 
Court of General Sessions, Tuesday morning. 




^ NOTICE OF REMOVAL,! 



MOORE & CO. desire to announce their removal from 
359 Mulberry Street to 22 Green Street, Newark, N. J. In 
addition to our line of RINGS, we are making a POPULAR 
LINE OF GOLD HEART CHARMS, and shall be pleased 
to forward samples to legitimate jobbers. 

Digitized by VnOOQ iC 



5^8 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 26, 1899- 



TRENTON 

Last week Governor Voorhees met with the joint committee of 
the Legislature, appointed to select a sword to be presented 
on behalf of the State of New Jersey to Rear Admiral William T. 
Sampson. 

The committee, without consulting the Governor, had prac- 
tically decided upon a sword submitted by Simmons & Co., of 
Philadelphia. Governor Voorhees much prefers a simple wea- 
pon, designed by Tiffany & Co., of New York. Many military 
men approve his choice. 

While the selection has narrowed down to the two designs 
above referred to the Governor and the committee have been 
unable to agree on either. Another meeting will be held shortly 
to further consider the question. The price of each weapon is 
$2000. 

The factory of the Trenton Watch Company closed down two 
days last week on account of an accident to its sewer pipe. 



WASHINGTON 

The eleven cases of petit larceny against Mrs. Annie Marie 
Norris in the Police Court have finally been disposed of. In 
six of them the prosecuting witnesses filed letters asking that her 
personal bonds be taken. There were five cases in which let- 
ters were not filed, and a fine of $10 was imposed in each one of 
them, which was paid. 

Martin Russell, who was arrested about a month ago on the 
charge of having stolen a pair of earrings and a diamond horse- 
shoe pin from Salvatore Desio, 1012 F street, N. W., has been in- 
dicted by the grand jury on the charge of grand larceny. On last 
Thursday, in Criminal Court No. i he asked for a continuance, 
which was granted. The Chief of Police has received from the 
New York police a photograph and history of Russell, the latter 
showing that he had been arrested for similar offences to the 
one alleged to have been committed here. It is also claimd that 
he has been guilty of jewelry thefts in Baltimore, and has been 
identified by the Baltimore people. ' 

The Alaska Jewelry Act. — On the last day of the Fifty-fifth 
Congress, March 3d, 1899, the President approved Public Law 
No. 193, entitled "An Act to define and punish crimes in the 
District of Alaska and to provjde a code of criminal procedure 
for said district." This law provides, in Section 460, that "any 
person or persons, corporation or company" wishing to engage 
in the jewelry business shall first apply for and obtain license so 
to do from a District Court or a subdivision thereof in said dis- 
trict, and pay for said license twenty-five (25) dollars per an- 
num. And section 461 provides, "That any person, corporation, 
or company doing or attempting to do business in violation of 
the provisions of the foregoing section, or without having first 
paid the license therein required, shall be deemed guilty of a 
misdemeanor, and upon conviction thereof shall be fined, for the 
first offense, in a sum equal to the license required for the busi- 
ness, trade, or occupation; and for the second offense, a fine 
equal to double the amount of the license required; and for the 
for not less than thirty days nor more than six months. 

Provided, That each day business is done or attmpted to be 
done in violation of the preceding section shall constitute a sep- 
arate and distinct offense. 

And provided further, That any person, firm or corporation 
hitherto engaged in any business within the said District of 
Alaska mentioned in the last preceding section, or that may en- 
gage in such business at any time prior to the first day of July, 
Anno Domini, eighteen hundred and ninety-nine, shall not be 



deemed to have violated the provisions of this section and the 
last prtccOing section if, in the opinion of the court or judge 
thereof, such person, firm, or corporation shall not have had 
reasonable time and opportunity to apply for license as herein- 
before required." 

The clerk of the court shall be entitled to receive from each 
applicant for a license a fee of five dollars, and no other or addi- 
tional compensation shall be paid such clerk for his services in 
connection with such license or the issue thereof. 

The two volumes of the "Commercial Directory of the Amer- 
ican Republics" compiled and published by the Bureau of Amer- 
ican Republics, is now ready for distribution and from it the 
following figures are taken showing the number of "watchmakers 
and Jewelers" engaged in business in the different countries of 
Central and South America: 
ARGENTINA- 

City of Buenos .Vyres ^ 

Provinces outside *6o 

BOLIMA- ""^ 

City of Laz Paz (Chief Commercial Town) n 

Departments and Provinces outside »» 

BRAZIL— •" 

City of Rio de Janeiro j^g 

In the States '* i6q 

CHILE- , ■ ^ 

City of Santiago ^ 

In the Provinces and Territories 07 

COLUMBL\- '^ 

City of Santa Fe de Bogota 24 

In the Departments 17^ 

COSTA RICA- 

San Jose 29 

In the Provinces 18 

ECUADOR- 

City of Quito 5 

In the Provinces 40 

GUATE.MALA- 

City of Guatemala 19 

Outside of Citv o 

BRITLSH (;LIANA '.. 7 

DUTCH GUL\.\A 1 

MEXICO- 

City of Mexico 75 

States and Territories mo 

NICARAGUA- 

Manague (Capital) 3 

In the Departments 20 

PARAGUAY- 

City of Asuncion 8 

Outside of Asuncion 7 

PHILADELPHIA 

Charles Lockhardt, formerly of the jewelry trade in this city, 
has returned from Arizona, where he was interested in mining. 

James Barry, Jr., secretary of the Jewelers' Club, was in New 
York last week. Mr. Barry is mentioned as one of the candi- 
dates to succeed Miss Weimer as jewelry buyer for Gimbel Bros. 

Julius W. Heitel, vice-president of the Philadelphia Horo- 
logical Society, and formerly with William G. Earle & Co., is 
now in charge of Wanamaker's watch repairing department. 

Fred. Loose, who was in charge of G. A. Schen Company's 
watch repairing for sixteen years, is now with B. F. Williams & 
Co., 726 Chestnut street. 

To fill the vacancy caused by the resignation of Frank Thom- 
son, Mayor Ashbridge has appointed formed Mayor Warwick 
as a trustee of the Commercial Museums. 

The window of Mark Isaac's loan office, 1312 Columbia ave- 
nue, was shattered on Thursday morning by an unknown man, 
who stole goods valued at $50. He escaped. 

A case containing $100 worth of spectacles was stolen from J. 
M. Gensburg. of Lancaster, last Thursday. 

Gold bullion valued at $301,000 was received at the Mint from 
Colorado last week. The forces at the Mint are now chiefly en- 
gaged in coining half eagles, and this will continue until $5,000,- 
000 of this coin is turned out. Thirty-five million dollars of gold 
bullion has been turned into money since January. 



L TAMKBAOM & GO. 

Importefs and Cottefs of 

Diamonds and Preciom Stetiei 

Cor. Maiden Lane and Nassau St., 
NEW YORK. 

26 Hatton Garden, London. 



tfiiMUuiiiliiilila. 




il)Otel Jinderson 

prrrsBURGH, PA. 

I Centrally located and easily acceaeible to 
I business i>art of the city. 

I AMPLE SECURITY TO 

I JEWELERS* SAMPLES. 

I American Plan. $3.00 to $5.00 a day. 

HENRY McKINNIE. 



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Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



April 25, 1899. 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



529 



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«? 

«» 






I GOLDSMITH BROS 



S^v%rees) Smelteirs^^ i^efliaeirs arid A.»»cty&tT» ^ 

Works Office 

58th and THROOP ST. 63 and 65 WASHINGTON ST. 



« » 



Returns for Sweeps within three days of receipt 



€» If returns for old gold should not prove satisfactory, we will return con- |]^ 

signment intact and pay all charges. 

Mention JEWELERS REVIEW. 



The special committee of the Board of Education awarded the 
contract for drawing instruments for the manual training schools 
to Williams, Biown & Eaik, Chestnut strett, beLw Tenth. There 
were four bidders and the above firm received the contract at 
$3-35 a set. Between three and four hundred sets will be re- 
quired for the freshman classes next September. 

A silver and gold plating establishment will be opened shortly 
by Louis Atkinson on the second floor of 726 Chestnut street. 

The committee on arrangements has decided to hold the an- 
nual planked shad dinner of the Jewelers' Club, at Essington, on 
May 9. 

D. J. McKelvey, one of the best all-round jewelry engravers 
in Philadelphia, is now in the repair department at Wanamakers. 

William G. Blair of Blair & Crawford, jewelers, 804 Chestnut 
street, has been appointed to the civil service board by Mayor 
Ashbridge. 

William G. Earle, the popular jeweler of this city, was the 
guest of the Clover Club, at its dinner last week. 

N. Snellenberg & Co. are preparing to open a silverware and 
cutlery department in their big store at Twelfth and Market 
streets. 

Frank Kursch, formerly of the firm of Pearse & Kursch, jew- 
elers in this city, has gone to Newark to take charge of Bippart 
& Co.'s factory. 

John Simons of Simons Brothers & Co.. manufacturing jew- 
elers, 614 Chestnut street, is confined to his home with sickness. 
L. C. Reisner of Lancaster is also on the sick list. 

Captain G. A. Bowen of Bridgeton, N. J., one of the old-time 
jewelers, called on the trade in this city during the week. 

Miss E. C. Weimer. formerly the jewelry buyer for Gimbel 
Brothers' department store, was married last week to H. Hil- 
liard. Until a successor to Miss Weimar is appointed the jew- 
elry counter is in charge of Miss R. Rudolph. Mrs. R. Shattuck, 
buyer of the silverware department, will assist Miss Rudolph. 
Airs. Shattuck was formerly buyer for R. H. White. 

Jules Levy, formerly of the jewelry firm of B. Levy & Son, is 
now with the Ajax Metal Company of Newark. 

George B. Evans, the druggist, is contemplating a watch and 
jewelry repairing branch in connection with the silverware and 
fine art department of his chestnut street store. 



As soon as alterations are completed for the change, gasoline 
will be used at the mint for annealing purposes altogether. Su- 
perintendent Boyer states this method is much more economical 
than the old-time process. 

Frank V^an Roden of Wright, Tyndale &»Van Roden, dealers 
in fancy glassware, 1219 Chestnut street, has gone abroad with 
his family for a short tour. 



PITTSBURG. 

Trade Conditions. — Jobbers report their business for each 
month larger than the one preceding and a great improvement 
upon the corresponding period last year. The only trouble ex- 
perienced no"w is the inability to get the goods. Some lines of 
watches are extremely scarce. W. J. Johnston stated that it was 
an old-time watch year. Other lines are qually as good. In the 
surrounding towns good business is being done. Traveling men 
also are sending in good sized orders. Collections are reported 
much better and the outlook generally is very bright. 

John S. Goodwin, president of the Goodwin Pottery Company, 
of East Liverpool, O., says that a combination of East Liverpool 
potteries will probably take place in the near future. This would 
take in the East Liverpool plants only, and would be capitalized 
at about $10,000,000. 

A. Feldman, of Franklin, Pa., was a visitor in the city last 
week. 

Louis Evans has taken bench room with A. E. Siviter & Co., 
of the Verner building, where he will work as watchmaker. He 
will also do all of the repair work for Siviter. 

Ed. Brillhart, formerly with I. De Roy, of Fifth avenue, is now 
in the employ of A. E. Siviter, for whom he will look after the 
city trade, 

C. P. Setin, of Canton, O., has been engaged as engraver for B. 
E. Arons, of Fifth avenue. 

John O. Slemmons, one of the best known jewelers of this sec- 
tion, and for many years with G. B. Barrett & Co., is now with C. 
G. Alford & Co., of New York. 

A. H. Gering, of the Verner building, has redecorated his 
store. 

Emil Bieler, for many years in business in Pittsburg, and af- 
terwards in Johnstown, Pa., is now with Klein, Graus & Co., 
of the Verner building. 



Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



530 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 26, 1899. 



AT THE HOTELS. 



Recent anhrals are posted daUy in the oflloe of " Tbe Jewelers Review/* 
wkere the bulletins can be inspected by members of the trade. 

F. H. Hill, of Danbury, at the Marlborough; B. Ginzberg, of 
Boston, at Normandie; C. F. Stewart, of Utica, at St Cloud; W. 
P. Sackett, of John Wanamaker, Philadelphia, at Sturtevant; 
A. Stern, of Cleveland, at Bartholdi; J. L. Dinkelspiel, of San 
Francisco, at the Imperial; S. Goodman, of New Haven, at the 
St. Cloud; Mr. Buxton, of Springfield, at the Broadway Central; 
C. J. Buckley, of Albany, at the Park Avenue; A. N. Thayer, of 
Toronto, at the Metropole; H. T. Williams, of Albany, at the 
Metropole; J. A. Hill, of Catskill, at the Albert; W. B. Glidden, 
of San Francisco, at the HoflFman; H. Alkan, of Buffalo, at the 
Imperial; F. A. Harmon, of Portland, at the Manhattan; E. A. 
Whipple, of Springfield, at the Park Avenue; N. C. Nelson, of 
Concord, at the Gallmon; F. A. Hubbard, of Springfield, at the 
Broadway Central; J. F. Mawhinney, of Omaha, at the Gilsey; 
R. Harris, of Washington, at the Imperial; A. Rhoads, of Lan- 
caster, at the Gilsey; F. G. Sutor, of Philadelphia, at the St. 



Denis; E. Keller, of Allentown, at the Cadillac; W. E. Harris, 
of Detroit, at the Sinclair; L. W. Rodgers, of Louisville, at the 
-Grand Union; G. R. Acheson, of Pittsburg, at the Imperial; F. 
E. Ladd, of Springfield, at the Broadway Central; C. Bede- 
chenier, of Philadelphia, at the Marlborough; W. Senter, of 
Portland, Me., at the Murray Hill; W. W. Roberts, of Hartford, 
at the Manhattan; A. Eisenberg, of San Francisco, at the Metro- 
pole; J. W. Barry, of Philadelphia, at the Imperial; A. Lomb 
and H. C. Lomb, of Rochester, at Manhattan. 



SAILED FOR EUROPE. 

The following gentlemen connected with the jewelry trade 
sailed for England during the past week: Oscar T. Jonassohn, 
of Allen & Jonassohn, New York: Leopold Stern, of Stem 
Bros. & Co., New York; Edgar Nevinstein, New York, and 
Chas; J. Rheinboldt, of Glaenzer Freres & Rheinboldt, New 
York; S. Lindenborn, of Solomon Lindenborn, New York. 



ESTABLISHED 1871. 



Cutter and Importer of Diamonds 
Prescott Building, 65 Nassau Street New Yorlc 



FACTORY 
1325 Atlantic Avenue, Brooklyn. 



HOUSE IN EUROPE 
23, 25 Loojerssracht, Amsterdam* 




DROP PRESSES 

PLAIN «P AUTOHATIO. 

What the Jewelers and Silversmiths 
need for the coming season. Plain 
Drops for work that has to be 
daped. Automatics for Flat Back 
and Shallow work. 

POWER PRESSES, 
ROLUNG MILLS, 



WITH ROLLER BEARIIIIG8 



WIRE DRAWING 
MACHINERY. 

Mossberg and Granville 



AdLI^O. 00« 



PROVIDENCE, R. I. 



NLW YORK Ofna: 126 Liberty Street. 
ExUbitioa at PMLAOCLPHU BOURSE. 



No. I PLAIN DROP. 




No. I AU'mjIATlC DROP. 

Digitized by VnOOQ iC 



April 26, 1899. 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



531 



HERE AND THERE 

B. E. Kidd, who has been engaged in the jewelry business in 
Corder, Mo., is reported to now be learning the business, hav- 
ing gone to Peoria, 111., where he is attending Parsons' Horolog- 
ical Institute. 

E. S. Shewalter, a jeweler of Parkville, Mo., committed sui- 
cide on April 13th, by taking wood alcohol. Despondency is 
given as the cause for the deed, and family troubles as the cause 
for the despondency. It seems that only a few months ago he 
procured a wile, through some matrhnontat agency, and but a 
couple of weeks before his death she left him. Since that time 
he had been drinking heavily. 

The latest reports are to the effect that I. Eller, a jeweler of 
Richmond, Mo., is about to undergo an operation for appen- 
dicitis. 

R. E. Brackett, Jr., of Lansing, Mich., was called to River 
Forest, 111., recently on account of the death of his brother-in- 
law, R. C. Braun, formerly a Board of Trade man in Chicago. 

D. A. White & Co., at present located in the Watson & Newell 
Building, Attleboro, are seeking quarters in the Robinson Build- 
ing, No. I, formerly occupied by the Attleboro Tool Company. 

The Citizens' Committee having charge of the erection of a 
building for the occupancy of the jewelry firm of S. J. Weeden 
& Co., Riverside, R. I., report that nearly sufficient funds have 
been received and work will be begun in the near future. 

The Bay State Optical Company, Attleboro, Mass., has ar- 
ranged to give its employes Saturday afternoon of every week. 

Fred. Overstreet, an optician of Paxton, 111., has been attend- 
ing the lectures at the McCormack Optical Institute, Chicago. 

Herman Raneski, a cripple, has been arrested, charged with 
stealing a number of watches from the jewelry store of Henry 
Humiston, 663 Lake street, Chicago. 

A fire occurred in the jewelry store of A. P. Williams, Rome, 
N. Y., last week, causing a damage of I30. 

George B. Kelly, secretary of the Rockford Silver Plate Com- 
pany, Rockford, 111., has resigned. 

A young man called at Bruder's jewelry store, Fort Wayne, 
Ind., last week, and, after making a selection of jewelry, oflfered 
a check for $25 in payment The check proved to be a forgery, 
and the police are looking for the man. 

Herman Strueve, Sr., a pioneer jeweler of Cincinnati, Ohio, is 
reported dangerously ill at his home. He is suffering from a 
stroke of apoplexy. 

O. E. Scott, a jeweler of Waterbury, Vt., has applied for a 
patent on a tool devised to set jewels in watches. 

Fire damaged the stock of W. C. Doherty, jeweler, 367 Wash- 
ington street, Boston, last week. 

The marriage is announced of H. S. Welch, a jeweler of 
Wayne, Iowa, to Miss Harriet A. Henderson, of Osceola, Neb. 

Mrs. Annie M. Norris, the young woman arrested several 
months ago for thefts of jewelry from Washington, D. C, jewel- 
ers, was before Judge Scott last week and was fined $50. 

E. Bosche, who keeps a jewelry store at 612 Ehn street, Cin- 
cinnati, Ohio, was robbed of $15 by a clerk whom he had tem- 
porarily employed last week. 

Thieves entered the jewelry store of B. Barnett, 815 Poydras 
street, New Orleans, La., last week and secured about $15 worth 
of jewelry. 

G. L. Head, Braddock, N. D., will soon be located in his new 
building. 

The jewelry store of Joseph Baker, Collinsville, Texas, was 
entered by burglars last week, who secured about $120 worth of 
jewelry. 

C. G. Lande, a jeweler of Cooperstown, N. D., committed sui- 
cide last week by taking prussic acid. 

The Aurora Silver Plate Co., Rockford, 111., recently turned 
out two i2-piece silver sets on a day's notice. They were or- 
dered by Senator Evans. 

The jewelry stock of Baylor Fauntleroy, Gatesville, Texas, was 
damaged by fire last week. Loss about $800. 

M. W. Potter, of J. M. Fisher & Co., Atleborto, has returned 
from a long Western trip. 

The marriage of Miss Josephine Codding, daughter of James 
A. Codding, of the Codding & Heilbarn Company. North Attle- 
boro, to E. H. Cummings. son of Edwin Cummings, of that 
place, took place last Friday. 

Adelbert Boggs has entered suit against A. E. Siviter, a watch- 
maker of Pittsburg, for the recovery of a watch left with him 
for repairs. 



Allen Richardson, the son of Jeweler Richardson, of Dun- 
ville. Can., accidentally shot and killed himself, while examining 
a revolver last week. 

The jewelry store of C. H. Case & Co., Hartford, Conn., was 
damaged by fire last. week. 

J. M. Gensburg, an optician of Lancaster, Pa., was robbed of 
a satchel containing valuable optical goods, while waiting for a 
train at the Pennsylvania Railroad Station, last Tuesday. 

Samuel H. Avey, the well-known jeweler of Auburn, Neb., will 
be married on May 3 to Bertha Leone Eraser. Invitations are 
out. 

S. C. J. Peterson, of Morris, III., who is in Phoenix, Ariz., for 
his health, was burned out of his quarters there recently. It was 
a quick fire, but fortunately in the day time. The building was 
destroyed in 15 minutes. 



NEW BUSINESS VENTURES. 

Whitcomb Brothers, the well-known jewelers of Lancaster, 
N. H., have opened a new store in Berlin Falls. 

The Jet Palace Jewelry and Loan Office, Memphis, Tenn., 
have filed letters of incorporation. Capital stock, $6,000. 

Samuel Roeder is to open a jewelry store at Springfield, Mo. 

Michael Kennedy, formerly of Watervliet, N. Y., has opened 
a jewelry store in Schenectady. 

The C. T. Anderson Jewelry Company has been incorporated 
at Los Angeles, Cal. Capital stock, $30,000. 

Morris H. Shiman, whom it was announced, would enter into 
partnership with Shiman Bros., of 12 Maiden Lane, will instead 
embark in business for himself as a manufactureer of fine dia- 
mond jewelry. The style of the firm will be M. H. Shiman & 
Co. 

M. L. Diehl has opened a jewelry store at Port Royal, Pa. 

J. W. Ferrier, Guthrie, Okla., who closed out his* business a 
year ago on account of ill health, has reopened. 

Articles of incorporation of the Cold Springs Gold Mining 
& Tunnell Company were filed with the Secretary of State, Den- 
ver, Col., Saturday. Capital, $2,000,000. 

The Adirondack Mining and Milling Company, of New York 
City, has been incorporated under the laws of the State of New 
York. Capital, $100,000. 

F. C. Lawrence has opened a jewelry store at Skaguay, Alaska. 
H. B. Conyers has engaged quarters in the Weaver Building, 

Urbana, Ohio, and will open a jewelry store. 

William J. Cunningham, formerly of Syracuse, N. Y., has 
opened a jewelry store in Dawson City. 

H. C. Stinbroker has removed from Equinunk to Hancock, 
N. Y., where he will open a jewelry store. 

Claude Howard will open a jewelry store at Frankfort, Ind. 

G. B. Porter, formerly of Porter & Emmons, St. Johns, Mich., 
has rented a store and will put in a stock of jewelry at once. 

T. Trower, a jeweler at Ricketts, 111., has purchased the stock 
of the Campbell Jewelry Company, at Shelbyville, where he will 
remove his business. 

J. A. Woodard, of Memphis, Tenn., has opened a jewelry store 
at Brownsville, Tenn. 

J. A. Johnson is again in the jewelry business in In'lcpendence, 
Kan. In forrscr yea»'S he conducted a jewelery, stationo y 
and notion 5iore at that point ,and later he sold ot:c the jewelry 
department. He has now purchased the department again. 

H. Brown, a brother of H. P. Brown, of New Brighton, Pa., 
has opened a store for himself at Salem, O. He was formerly 
in charge of the optical department for his brother. 

Charles Sloane formerly with B. E. Aarons, Pittsburg, Pa., 
has embarked in business for himself at Wilmerding, Pa. He 
opened his new store last week. 

Numa Evard has opened a new store at Wilmerding, Pa., dur- 
ing the week just ended. F. G. Sanes has also opened a store in 
the same place, making three new stores in one week. Wil- 
merding is the town established by the Westinghouse interests 
who employ all told about 5,000 men. 

Paul Kuba has purchased the store and stock of William 
Sharpe, a Gratiot Avenue. Detroit, Mich., jeweler. He will re- 
model the store and make it a very handsome establishment. Mr. 
Kuba was a watchmaker at Noack & Gorenflo's. He was the 
last employe of the late Eugene Deimel to remain with the new 
firm. 

The firm of Messrs. John W. Mealey, Son & Co., diamond 
merchants, jewelers and silversmiths, Baltimore, Md., has been 
formed. John W. Mealey, the senior member of the new firm, 
has for many years been connected -A-ith Hennegen, Bates & Co. 



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i^oogle 



532 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 26, 1899. 



s 



TERN BROS. & CO. 



CUTT ERS A ND 
IMPORTEE^SOF 



DIAMONDS 



Gutting WoriEtt S40-S46 West f4tii Stnel 
London Office) 29 Ely Place 



Comet John and Nassau Streets 
NEW YORK 



BUSINESS TROUBLES 

Emanuel De Roy, a jeweler at 643 Smithfield street, Pittsburg, 
Pa., has filed a petition in bankruptcy in the U. S. District Court. 
Liabilities, ^26,050; assets, $125. 

W. B. Friedman, Gainesville, Texas^ has filed a voluntary peti- 
tion in insolvency. 

Harry L. Bossa, dealer in jewelry and bicycles, Ridefield, 
Conn., has filed a petition of bankruptcy. 

Harry A. Burbank, a jeweler of Willimantic, Conn., has filed 
a voluntary petition in bankruptcy. 

A judgment has been rendered against E. J. Peck, jeweler, 
Joliet, 111., for $1,802. 

Petitions in involuntary bankruptcy were filed before Judge 
McPherson in the United States District Court, Philadelphia, 
Pa., last week, against the A. R. Justice Company. 7206 Chestnut 
street. The creditors have shown a general disposition to accept 
the assignees offer of a settlement of 50 cents on the dollar. If 
this plan proves successful it is probable that the business will be 
continued. 

Petitions in bankruptcy were filed against the L. A. Schcrr 
Company, dealers in jewelry and findings at 726 Chestnut 
street, Philadelphia, Pa., by Charles E. Bartlett, assignee, 
in the United States District Couit, Philadelphia, Pa., last week, 
and the stock and fixtures of the firm will be sold at auction. The 
sale begins on May 3. This house has been in existence for 2'} 
years and for a long time was one of the foremost of its kind. 
Harry C. Barry has been appointed to assist Mr. Bartlett in 
winding up the business. . 

Mrs. S. H. Fitzsimmons, St. Catherines, Ontario, has assigned 
for the benefit of her creditors. 

W. E. Blocher has been adjudicated a bankrupt 

B. Friedman, a jeweler of Galveston, Tex., has been sued for 
the sum of ?4. 

Judgment for ?ii3 has been rendered against the Streicher 
Watch & Jewelry Company, in Kansas City. Mo. 

W. A. Fisher, of Franklin, Pa., who has sold out his business 
is oflFering his creditors a setlement on the basis of 20c on the 
dollar. 

A petition in bankruptcy was filed a few days ago with the 
court by Emanuel Deroy, of Smithfield street, Pittsburg. His 
liabilities are scheduled at ?26,ooo, while the assets are given as 
$125. He states in his petition that most of his indebtedness 
was contracted over 20 years ago. 

There was to have been another hearing on the petition of the 
Campbell-Metcalf Company for a discharge from insolvency 
Monday morning, but it was decided to again postpone the 
matter for one week. Those interested hope that when the mat- 
ter comes up next Monday it will be settled. 

In bankruptcy proceedings held before Judge N. B. Smith, 
Pulaski, N. Y., in the matter of Higgins Bros., bankrupts, for- 
merly in the jewelry business in Oswego, a dividend of 12V2 per 
cent, was made to the creditors and the expenses of trustee 
allowed. 

W. S. Heflion, a jeweler at 618 Main street, Kansas City, has 
filed a petition in the local court, asking that his wife be re- 
strained from taking charge of his business and running it to 
suit herself. He has also applied for a divorce. 

The stock of Madson & Buck, dealers in gold pens in the 
Masonic Temple, Chicago, has been attached by Deputy Sheriff 
McNichols to secure a claim of $1,209.59, made by George P. 
Gaydoul, allep^ed to be (\uq on account. 

Francis H. Parker, United States referee in bankruptcy. Hart- 
ford. Conn., decided last week that there was no fraud in the sa'e 



of the jewelry stock of the estate of Calvin M. Tiffany, of Man- 
chest, r, C( nn., tank.u^t, ty F. Ernest VVatkins, tru.t.e, to Maro 
S. Chapman. 

Jacob M. Epstein, a jeweler at 9 Orchard street, has filed a 
petition in bankruptcy, with liabilities of $i,557 and no avail- 
able assets. 



BUSINESS CHANGES 

C. C. Edgeworth. formerly of Marshville, South Carolina, has 
moved to Bay Springs in the same State. 

S. O. Huseth, formerly of Mt. Horeb, Wis., has sold out there 
and is fitting up a store at Madison, Wis. 

M. W. Scribner, jeweler of Fairport, N. Y., has removed to 
the first floor of the Howe block. 

Davis & Freeman have purchased the jewelry business of J. P. 
Stevens & Bro., Atlanta, Ga. 

J. W. Preston, dealer in watches and jewelry. Middletown, 
N. Y., has removed from 36 East Main street to 15 North street. 

R. H. Burgess has purchased the jewelry stock of Dr. H. M. 
Hitchcock, Greenwich, Conn. 

J. Schwabs, Pt. Collins, Col., has disposed of jewelry business 
to H. G. Petty. 

W. Harrington, New Lewisville, Ark., has removed to his 
new quarters in the Racket store. 

John Halt, a jeweler of Eau Claire, Wis., is occupying his new 
store at loi Kilsey street. 

W. H. Eyer has removed his jewelry business from Onawa, 
Iowa, to Charter Oak. 

C. O. Davenport succeeds the firm of Ward & Davenport, 
Gardiner, Me. 

J. L. Brouse, Grossdale, 111., has removed to Chicago, and 
has located at 629 West Madison street. He will handle a line 
of jewelry and optical goods. 

J. S. Reed, jeweler, La Grange, Iowa, is disposing of his stock 
at auction. 

Ill health has compelled Henry J. McGrade, Iron River. Wis., 
to close out his jewelry business. 

H. J. Riesland & Co., Milaca, Minn., have moved to their 
new store. 

John Kirkpatrick, formerly of Leavenworth, Kan., has re- 
moved to Des Moines, Iowa, where he will engage in the jewelry 
business. 

A. L. Brown, jeweler, has removed from Dow City, Iowa, to 
Pond, Iowa. 

James D. Leys, Butte, Mont., is closing out his jewelry busi- 
ness at auction. 

The jewelry firm of Hoffman & Son, New Braunfels. Texas, is 
succeeded by F. C. Hoffman. 

W. F. Foye, jeweler. Hot Springs, Ark., has closed out his 
business. 

S. J. Goldsoll, of the Diamond Palace, New Orleans, La., has 
transferred his interest in the business. 

The firm of Woodward & Davenport, Gardiner, Me., have dis- 
solved partnership. 

A. E. Job, jeweler, Dundee. Mich., is selling out and will dis- 
continue the business. 

G. R. Filmer has removed his jewelry business from Kosson, 
to Morristown, Minn. 

Ulmer J. Kilmer has opened a watch and clock repairing store 
at Hummilstown. Pa. 

Weststein and Hackett, of Rochelle. 111., have been succeeded 
by W. F. Hackett. 



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April 26. 1899. 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



533 



Harrison & Co. are the successors of H. A. Harrison, at 
Sault Ste. Marie, Mich. 

George B. Barber, of Miami, Fla., has moved to Jacksonville 

Gus Spies, of Irwin, Pa., is selling his entire stock and fixtures 
at auction. He will devote his entire time and attention to his 
new store at Charleroi, Pa. 

A. C. Davis, of Confluence, Pa., is selling out his complete 
store at auction. He will retire permanently from the jewelry 
business after the completion of the sale. 

W. J. Harding, of Newcomerstown, Ohio, has taken into part- 
nership W. Worley. The firm will be known as Harding & 
Worley. 

J. B. Bruce, who has been in business for the past twelve 
years in Burgettstown, Pa., has sold his store to Bert McFar- 
land, who was formerly with M. G. Cohen, of Pittsburg. Pa. 

j^. E. Esterly, Duluth, Minn., has removed from 334 West Su- 
perior street, to Room 2, Palladio Building. 

D. W. Steiner, Pandora, Ohio, will remove to Orville, Ohio, 
May I. 

A. Fechenbach & Co. are now located in their new store, 196 
East Main street. Rochester, N. Y. They carry a full line of 
diamonds, watches and jewelry. 

Blood, Hix & Sumner, jewelers, of Rockland, Ind., have re- 
moved to their new quarters in the Levensaler Block. 

A. B. Regenier recently sold out his entire stock of jewelry in 
Harrington, Kan., at auction, and discontinued business in that 
State. He is now located in Marietta, Ohio, where he has the 
management of a jewelry store belonging to his uncle. 

The jewelry stock in San Diego, Cal., belonging to the. es- 
tate of J. R. Harris, is being closed out, and the business will 
be discontinued. 

A. S. Joseph has sold out the jewelry business he has been 
conducting in Los Angeles, Cal. 

Harry Davis recently sold out his jewelry business in Trini- 
dad, Colo. 

C. A. McCabe has announced that he will discontinue the jew- 
elry business he is now conducting in Pomeroy, Wash., about 
June I. 

Jacob Schwab has sold out his stock of jewelry in Fort Col 
lins, Colo., and H. G. Petty will continue the business. 

D. O. Ward has sold out his shoe business in Provo, Utah, 
and will hereafter devote his entire attention to the jewelry line. 

G. Danielson has discontinued the jewelry store he has been 
conducting in Portland, Ore. 

S. Sutter, who has been engaged in the jewelry business in 
Russell, Kan., has discontinued at that point, and moved to Ore- 
gon. 

Tom McCann, a well known Western jewelry auctioneer, has 
removed from St. Joseph, Mo., to Kansas City. 

John Alasky, who has for some time been engaged in the jew- 
elry business in Lexington, Mo., has sold out at that point and 
removed to Kansas City, where he has gone into business at 
540 Main street. He was engaged in the jewelry business at 
this point before he went to Lexington. 

1. Zeller has purchased the entire jewelry establishment of C. 
Tholander. in Durango. Colo. 

The jewelry firm of Hoflfman & Son. in New Braunfels, Tex., 
has been dissolved, and F. C. Hoflfman will cp ninue the busi- 
ness alone. 

W, F. Foye has decided to discontinue the jewelry business 
he has been conducting in Hot Springs, Ark. 



DEEDS AND MORTGAGES 

The jewelry firm of Johnson & Gillespie, Boston, Mass., has 
filed a chattel mortgage for $500. 

Peter Sorenson, a jeweler of Detroit, Mich., has filed a re- 
newal of a chattel mortgage for $318. 

The Americus Jewelry and Music Company, of Americus, 
Georgia, have given mortgages as follows: People's Bank of 
Americus, $3,888.52. April 12, 1899, due May 12, 1899- C. G. 
Alford & Co., New York City, $626.61, dated April 12, 1899, due 
May 15. June 15 and July 15, 1899, and to G. T. Sullivan. $350 
dated April 12, 1899, due on demand. From these appearances 
the aflfairs of the concern are in poor shape. 

Mrs. Catherine E. Wander, BuflFalo, N. Y., has filed a chattel 
mortgage on her stock for S4 000. 

Mrs. J. C. Yingling, who conducts a jewelry business at De- 
fiance, Ohio, has filed a chattel mortgage for $5,697. 



John Schwarz, manufacturer of jewelry cases, 61 Nassau street, 
has filed a chattel mortgage for $400. 

W. W. Martin, who is engaged in the jewelry business in 
Salem, Ore., has given a mortgage for $2,000. 

F. M. Shivey, a jeweler and furniture dealer of Joplin, Mo., 
has given a realty trust deed for $3,000. 

R. S. McCune, a jeweler of New London, Mo., has given a 
realty trust deed for $200. 

L C. Roseland, who has a jewelry store in Le Grand, Iowa, 
has given a chattel mortgage for $18. 



NEW ENGLAND NEWS 

WmOU OVB SPBCIAl. COHRBSrONDBHTS. 

BulBMa tad peraoDAl newt intereitliic to the trtde from the Statet nidtr 
tlio Above hoadinc wiU be found in tlieoe cohunnt. We hATO a fpecial staff of 
eoneepondents in all the important centers, b«t are always clad to receive 
from our readers items of news whidi they consider of funeral interest to 
members of the trade. Such notes should reach this ofllce on Mo day morning. 

BOSTON. 

E. A. Cowan of the firm of E. A. Cowan & Co., Jewelers' 
Building, who returned two weeks ago from a long Southern 
business trip, has left again for the South, where he will remain 
for a month or more. 

Exports from the port of Boston for the week ending April 
14 amounted to the sum of $2,153,800, and included clocks to the 
value of $136. 

Ladies* Night of the Boston Jewelers' Club. — At the 
Hotel Vendome, Commonwealth avenue, Friday evening, there 
was a jolly gathering of ladies and gentlemen, the occasion being 
the annual ladies' night and banquet of the Boston Jewelers* 
Club. The members and their wives gathered in the hotel par- 
lors, where they were received by President Henry W. Patterson, 
of Smith, Patterson & Co., and Mrs. Patterson. After a half- 
hour of social conversation the company adjourned to the ban- 
quet hall. There was one large round table in the center, from 
which, at either side, extended two long wings. The tables were 
heaped with fragrant cut flowers, and the menu was a dainty af- 
fair tied with lavender ribbon. At the conclusion of the banquet 
an interesting literary and musical entertainment was enjoyed. 
There were readings by Mr. La Rue Vredenburg, soprano solos 
by Mrs. Palfrey, and baritone solos by Mr. A. H. Houghton, At 
the conclusion of the entertainment "America" was sung by the 
company standing. The aflfair was one of the most successful 
and enjoyable of these annual events ever held by the club. 
Among those present were President Henry W. Patterson and 
Mrs. Patterson, Vice-President Arthur H. Pray and Mrs. Pray, 
Secretary and Treasurer Wm. A. Thompson and Mrs. Thomp- 
son, Mr. and Mrs. Charles F. Morrill, Mr. and Mrs. Charles O. 
Lawton, Marcel N. Smith, E. J. Boyde, E. A. Bigelow, Mr. and 
Mrs. James S. Blake, Mr. and Mrs. John H. Whitten, of Man- 
chester, N. H.. guests of Mr. and Mrs Blake; Dr. Cummings, 
guest of Mr. Bigelow; Mr. and Mrs. E. J. Sampson, of Med- 
ford, guests of Mr. and Mrs. Thompson. 

President Wells, of the Globe Optical Company, returned 
on Friday from a Southern trip. He was accompanied by Mrs. 
Wells. 

It is announced that the notorious Electrolytic Marine Salts 
Company will declare a dividend of 20 per cent., payable May i, 
at the office of the State Street Trust Company. An organiza- 
tion committee, of which Hon. Winslow Warren is chairman, 
represents 920,000 shares of stock, out of a total of 953»ooo shares, 
so that a dividend of 20 per cent, will mean the return to in- 
vestors of a total of nearly $200,000. Of this amount Rev. Pres- 
cott F. Jernegan, the promoter, sent back $75,000, and the com- 
mittee secured by attachment about $100,000 more belonging to 
him, making in all about $175,000. Messrs. Usher and Sawyer, 
who were the distributing agents of the concern, have also re- 
turned all that they received from the business. No expert re- 
port has been received as yet on the feasibility of making gold 
from sea water at the North Lubec, Me., plant. 

Among the new corporations granted charters in Massachu- 
setts is the Southbridge Manufacturing Company, spectacles, 
etc.; J. J. Bowley, president: J. J. Delehanty, treasurer; capi- 
tal, $6,000. 

With the advance of the season there has been little progress 
to report in conditions of the jewelry trade in Boston and New 
England. Traveling men in the West and South are having fine 



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THE JEWOELERS REVIEW 



April 26, 1899. 



business, and their orders reaching this city show good results in 
those localities. The local holiday of last week had its effect in 
diminishing the week's business. 

Buyers in town during the past week included the following 
named retailers: D. C. Stull, Provincetown; N. H. Davis, Wor- 
cester; W. S. Lee, Salem; T. R. Gushing, Rockland; H. E. 
French, Hudson; Alden Webb, Beverly; C. J. Hinchcliff, Bev- 
erly; George F. Hussey, Haverhill; J. E. Webster, Milford, N. 
H.; J. A. Greenwood, Lynn; A. B. Bruneau, Fall River; Her- 
man Emerson, Lynn; S. B. Guerney Bros., Brockton; R. B. 
Johnson, Waltham; N. C. Squire, Lynn. 

Manager Barber, of the Globe Optical Company, went to Ep- 
ping, N. H., on Saturday, for a couple of days* visit. 



THE ATTLEBOROS 

Major Everett S, Horton, of the Horton & Angell Company, 
has entered the real estate business under the name of the Attle- 
boro Real Estate Company. He has obtained control of a 
large plot in the southern part of the town, known as the Riv- 
erside plot, and is to erect several new houses on it. 

Mr. and Mrs. Alfred D. Crosby have returned from their 
honeymoon and taken up their residence in town. 

David E. Makepeace anounced last week who the tenants of 
his new jewelry factory would be. His own business will oc- 
cupy the entire first floor, while S. M. Einstein and the Attle- 
boro Manufacturing Company will occupy the second floor. 
There are several applicants for space on the third floor. The 
factory is fast nearing completion. 

Maxy W. Potter has returned from a long trip through the 
West in the interests of S. M. Fisher & Co. 

James E. Blake has denied the report that he is to erect a 
factory for the Attleboro Manufacutring Company to occupy. 

C. H. Allen & Co., is another of the firms to return to early 
Saturday closing. 

The wedding of Miss Josephine A. Codding, daughter of James 
A. Codding, of the Codding & Heilborn Company, North At- 
tleboro, and Edwin H. Cummings, of New York, took place 
last Wednesday evening. Mr. and Mrs. Cummings will make 
their home in New York City. 

The marriage of Miss Fannie L. Butterworth to Egbert Ellis 
Rhodes, manager of the Novelty Manufacturing Company, one 
of the largest mail order concerns in this town, is to take place 
Tuesday of this week. 

The Garrison Club, of North Attleboro, celebrated its an- 
nual Garrison Day at Lake Wollomonapoag last week. The 
committee in charge consisted of Louis E. Morse, of H. D. Mer- 
ritt & Co.; Fred J. Mills, of the Sommer & Mills Company; 
William F. Maintien, of Maintien Brothers & Elliot; Elton B. 
Fisher, of E. I. Franklin & Co.; J. P. Neuscheuz. 

Ernest M. Bliss, traveling salesman for Bliss Brothers, is re- 
ceiving congratulations on the last addition to his family, a son. 

The body of David Farrington, the well-known Providence 
jeweler, who died a short time ago, was brought to Wrentham, 
last week, and interred in the family lot there. 

Last week it was definitely decided that the Mossberg Auto- 
mobile concern of Providence, of which Frank Mossberg, form- 
erly vice-president of the Mossberg & Granville Manufacturing 
Company, is president and manager, would remove shortly to 
Attleboro. A conference was held between Mr. Mossberg and 
James E. Blake, of the James E. Blake Company, who is inter- 
ested in the concern, the result of which was that Mr. Blake of- 
fered the use of the large basement of his shop to Mr. Mossberg. 
while his new factory was being built. The oflFer was accepted, 
and Mr. Mossberg will use the small factory formerly occupied 
by A. A. Ellis & Co., on South Main street, for experimental 
work and drafting. The new concern will employ about 75 
skilled workmen to begin with. 

Frank P. Drennan. one of the skilled workmen employed in 
the factory of the Bates & Bacon Watch Case Manufacturing 
Company, had a narrow escape from a serious injury Saturday 
afternoon, when a large pulley fell from the ceiling striking him 
on the side of the head and inflicting a painful and severe wound. 

Damon A. White, of D. A. White & Co., at present located in 
the Watson & Newell Company building, has secured quarters in 
the Robinson building No. 2. formerly occupied by the Attle- 
4)oro Tool Company. 

PROVIDENCE 

William H. Elliott, the Pawtucket optician and jeweler, ap- 
plied for a discharge from insolvency and when the application 
was heard Saturday last it was granted. Mr. Elliott has made 
arrangements to continue business at his old stand. 



Potter & Buflftngton will remove from their present quarters 
in the Owen Building to new and larger rooms in the Enter- 
prise Building about the first of May. The Owen Building was 
built nearly thirty years ago, and from that time until now has 
been used for jewelry manufacturing purposes. The new home 
of the firm was at one time occupied by the firm of Kent & 
Stanley. 

For some time past workmen in the establishment of Corey & 
Reynolds have been missing sums of money from their pockets. 
The matter was reported to the police, who investigated and 
found that a young boy employed in the place was in the habit 
of going to the pockets of the men while the latter were work- 
ing. He was brought before the court but escaped with a light 
fine. 

The firm of B. K. Smith & Co. have enlarged their shop by 
taking another story in the same building. 

W. C. Randall, the enameler, has removed from 158 Pine 
street to the new building at the corner of Pine and Richmond 
streets, where he will have larger and better facilities for doing 
his work. 

The stock company which is to construct the new building for 
the firm of S. J. Weed, at Riverside, will be formed in a few 
days, as most of the money has been subscribed. It will be situ- 
ated on the Cedar Grove plot. 

The Bowen Building on Page street closed the first four days 
of this week in order that the boilers might be inspected and 
needed repairs made. 

Fred Goodison, a boy employed by Carey & Reynolds, 25 
Congress avenue, has been arrested for stealing small sums of 
money and various articles of jewelry. He was taken before 
Judge Sweetland, who imposed a fine of ?2 and costs. 



CANAIHAN NEWS. 



ntOM OUR SPSCIAL COKRBSPOKDBMTi. 



TORONTO 

Mr. C. Backley of the American Watch Case Company has 
just returned from a missionary trip, having visited all the princi- 
pal places in the Northwest and British Columbia. 

J. Collier & Co. have removed to 130 King street west, and 
will have more commodious premises for the manufacture of 
jewelers' boxes. 

The clocks for the new city hall are now receiving the atten- 
tion of the jewelers of Toronto. New tenders are now asked 
for, calling for a tower clock of English manufacture, an action 
unappreciated by the trade here. 

Several girls employed as enamellers at P. W. Ellis & Co.'s 
jewelry factory, Toronto, have gone out on strike. The trou- 
ble was caused by the action of the firm in introducing a system 
of piece work. Mr. P. W. Ellis said that under the new system 
he believed that the enamellers could earn better wages. The 
girls took a diflFerent view, however, and refuse to go back to 
work unless they receive the old scale of wages. 



PACnC AND ROCKY MOUNTAIN NEWS. 



FBOM OUR tPBCIAL 



Tto Mwt VuMUt this fcttilif It ne&tf96, fnm thote Statot 1 
the Padie and mtmSimg lalaad to the Socky llfNuttliis. Tiade Mwt and 
oonMpoBdeBM from oar loadori it aIwato wtioomo and tlMOld bo noolTOd at 
tklt olBoe not later tkaa Mondaj moniiiff ia oaok wook. 
SAN FRANCISCO 
The senior member of Radke Bros., who opened last month 
as jewelers and silversmiths in the old Hammersmith & Field 
location, 118 Sutter street, is favorably mentioned in local trade 
circles for having caught an expert diamond thief. On April 
2 the man was released from the State Prison, after fifteen 
months* imprisonment for diamond stealing from an East Side 
(Oakland) jeweler. The following day he entered the jewelry 
novelty store of W. S. Tobin, 910 Market street, and while en- 
gaging the attention of the proprietor stole a stone worth $165. 
It is supposed that the thief counted on Jeweler Tobin keeping 
his loss quiet, as he continued his attempts to ply his trade. He 
called upon King, Moss & Co., A. I. Hall & Son and Radke & 
Co., but was treated with suspicion and dealt with accordingly. 
Messages descriptive of the suspect were sent out to various 
members of the trade. On the 14th of April, the day after the 
thief visited the store of Radke & Co.. Richard L. Radke 
saw him on Sutter street, and promptly had him arrested. He 
has been also identified as W. C. Epperson and as Warren Wil- 
son. 



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April 26, 1899. 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



535 



SOUTHERN AND VES TEkN NEWS 

FROM OUR SPECIAL CORRESPOSOr.::- . 

AU tlie newt with interestaig and nsefnl trade notes wlU be siyen in 
tliase colnmns weekly. This heading covers all the States Eastward of and 
adjoining the Rocky Mountains and an the Soathem and Gu'f SUtes. We 
Shan heartily welcome any notes from those of onr readers who can send us 
^ompt information of any trade news of general interest. Such notes shoali 
reach us not later than Monday morning. 

ST. LOUIS 

Charles H. Schoen was elected chairman of the employment 
committee of the T. P. A., at their convention last week, in 
Springfield, Mo. On his return trip, Mr. Schoen visited a num- 
ber of the southwestern Missouri towns. He reports business 
good throughout that part of the State. 

F. W. Hoyt is moving hi? quarters to a more spacious room 
in the Holland building, which he intends to fit up with an en- 
tirely new set of fixtures. Mr. Hoyt will leave for the west and 
northwest next week. 

Henry Estinghausen will leave Havana on April 22. He ex- 
pects to stop at New York and other Eastern cities before com- 
ing home. ' 

The Merwood & Janard Jewelry Company are beginning op- 
erations to move into their new building on the corner of Broad- 
way and Locust. 

F. W. Drosten is having a new clock built in front of his store, 
on Seventh and Pine. 



MINNEAPOLIS 



LOUISVILLE 

The jewelers have determined to take Saturday afternoon holi- 
days beginning June i and continuing until Sept. i. 

Kendrick's Sons have finished a handsome silver cup, which 
will be competed for in the Gentlemen's cup race, to be run on 
the last day of the coming Jockey Club meeting. It is 
worth $300. 

S. Hicks, of Wynn & Hicks, druggists at Providence, Ky., 
has sold his interest in the drug business to his partner and will 
hereafter devote his undivided attention to the jewelry business. 



KANSAS CITY 

Two beautiful medals are being manufactured from 14 karat 
gold by the Edwards & Sloane Jewelry Company for the Haynes 
Academy, in Excelsior Springs, Mo. They are presented to the 
academy for the purpose of prizes in certain lines of study. One 
is given by Gov. Lon V. Stephens and the other by E. F. Swin- 
ney, the cashier of the First National Bank, of this city. 

The following buyers have been in the city during the week: 
Emil Ludwigs, Lexington, Mo.; Gus Willman, Lawrence, Kan.; 
H. R. Mester, Atchison, Kan.; C. C. Morrison, Olathe, Kan.; 
H. R. Devore, Ottawa. 

The Columbian Optical Company has added a line of cam- 
eras and camera supplies to the stock of goods it has been both 
jobbing and retailing in this city, and reports a good trade. 

The pawnbrokers of this city have been considerably excited 
during the past week, on account of a visit from special agents 
of the Internal Revenue Department. These agents informed the 
pawnbrokers that they were conducting a warehouse business, 
and that every article pawned would have to have a warehouse 
receipt issued for it, and the stamps for this receipt would cost 
25 cents each. This decision of the revenue office special man 
was strenuously objected to by the 'local pawnbrokers. They 
have petitioned the local collector, and he has sent in their peti- 
tion, setting forth their views of the matter, together with the 
report of the special agent, and the decision of the Washington 
office is anxiously awaited. 

Felix Fricke, who has for a considerable time occupied the 
position of bookkeeper for the Meyer Jewelry Company, is 
now undergoing treatment for his eyes, and it is stated that he 
will probably not be able to attend to business for a month. 

Tom Hoefer, the traveling representative of M. A. Meade & 
Co., Chicago, has been visiting his brother, Charlie Hoefer, of 
Woodstock, Hoefer & Co. 

Henry J. Linn, who has been traveling for Benjamin Allen & 
Co., Chicago, in the Northwest, has accepted a position as trav- 
eling salesman for the firm of Woodstock, Hoefer & Co. 

M. Flatau, the manager of the Western Optical & Jewelry 
Company, has moved the stock of that concern from 606 Wal- 
nut street to 608 Main street. 

J. C. Altman, after so long a time, has decided to move from 
the location he has been occupying at 707 Main street, and has 
made arrangements to occupy the first floor of the new building 
now in course of erection at 1107 Walnut street. 



H. Green, of 213 Washington Avenue, South, is disposing of 
his stock at auction. 

The Jewelers' ball team, of this city, is reorganizing. 

C. M. Erickson, formerly with S. E. Olson, will open a jewelry 
store in this city about May i. 

T. Johnson has accepted a position with Reed, Bennett & Co., 
in the Lumber Exchange. 

L. De Mars, optician, 329 Nicolet avenue, is in Long Lake, 
Minn., on business. 

R. G. Winters, 327 Nicolet avenue, is in Milwaukee on busi- 
ness. 

C. A. Mathews, Annandale, Minn.; A. Kahle, Belle Plain, 
Minn., and Dr. S. W. Gray, Grand Forks, N. D., were in town 
last week. 

The following Eastern representatives were in the city dur- 
ing the past week: Edwin L. Munford (Waite, Thresher Co.), 
H. E. Cobb (Daggett & Clapp), Earl J. Brown (Geneva Optical 
Co.), Jas H. Donnelly (Alvin Manufacturing Co., and Fahy's 
Watch Case Co.), F. Mead (Barbour Silver Co.) 



NEW ORLEANS 

Mr. Leonard Krowcr has returned from New York, having 
successfully concluded his business relative to a jewelers dis- 
play at the forthcoming industrial exposition, here, next month. 

Last week announcement was made that the Waltham Com- 
pany would have space at the exposition. Following this comes 
the news that the Elgin people will also be very much in evi- 
dence. 

Coleman Addler's manufacturing department is in active opera- 
tion with gratifying business. 

The silver bell to be presented the United States cruiser New 
Orleans by the citizens, will be on exhibition in a few days at 
Scoolers. Mr. Scoolers is the manufacturer of the bell. 

Among the jewelry representatives in the city during the past 
week, where: Messrs. Sam Barry, of the Meridian Brittania 
Company; S. D. Michel, of Derby Silver Plate Company; S. 
Sheyler, of Domineck & HuflF, Charles Forsyth, of the Meridian 
Cuttlery Company; L. Stevens, of Enos, Richardson & Co.; Al. 
Stevens, of Enos, Richardson & Co.; Nely Young, of W. B. 
Keer & Co., New York. 



©bituat^ 



Charles H. Baker, superintendent of the works of the Gorham 
Manufacturing Company, at Elmwood, R. I., died at his home, 
67 Stimson avenue, last Saturday morning. 

Mr. Baker was born at Nantucket, Mass., Aug. 17, 1843, and 
spent his early life in that town, obtaining his education in the 
public schools. When the civil war broke out he enlisted in the 
Twentieth Massachusetts Regiment and served with that organ- 
iaztion for four years, being mustered out as First Lieutenant. 
Shortly after the war he came to Providence and entered the 
office of the Gorham Manufacturing Company as clerk. Step by 
step he worked his way up until he became assistant superintend- 
ent, a position which he filled for several years. On the death 
of Geo. Wilkinson, the superintendent, in December, 1894, Mr. 
Baker was elected to fill the vacancy and continued in the same 
position up to the time of his death. 

In 1866 Mr. Baker was married to Miss Ellen Fitzgerald, of 
Nantucket, who with two daughters, Maude and Ellen Louise, 
survive him. He was a prominent member of the Squantum and 
Congregational Clubs, the Massachusetts Loyal Legion and Slo- 
cum Post. No. 10, G. A. R. 

The death is reported of the wife of E. G. Kingman, salesman 
for Arnold & Steere, Providence, R. I. 

The denth is announced of Celestin Peterman. a veteran watch 
maker of Winona, Minn. 

John K. Farver, a jeweler of Columbus, Ohio, died suddenly 
of heart disease at his home last week. 

W. D. Dreher. Carlisle^ Pa., is dead. He was formerly in the 
jewelry business at Knoxville, Tenn. 

Isaac S. Isaacs, a retired retail jeweler, of this city, died Frida:*, 
April 21 of pneumonia, at his residence. 1809 North Broad street. 
Mr. Isaacs was born in Philadelphia in 18.^ and beean the 
jewelry business at 108 South Eighth street in 1860. When he 
retired because of failing siprht nine years ajro, his place of busi- 
ness was under the Continental Hotel. He leaves a widow, 
two sons and two davghters 



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536 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 26. 1899. 



NEWS OF THE LAKE STATES 

ntOM OUa STBCIAL CORRBSPOMDBMTS. 

Trade newt and bnaiiidsa and penonal items from those Statee borderisf 
on the Lakes will be found under this head. These States include Minnesota, 
Wisconsin, Iowa, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois and Ohio. We shall welcome any 
items of general interest from our readers, which should reach us not later 
than Monday morning. 

CHICAGO 

Henry Lodge, of the Art Department at Spaulding & Co.'s. 
and E. L. Smith, of the Novelty Department, sailed last Satur- 
day for Europe. . Mr. Lodge goes to buy for his department 
and Mr. Smith to be in the Paris store of the house for the 
summer. 

Fred. Purdy, of J. H. Purdy & Co., and manager of the Mystic 
Laboratory, was fortunate enough to escape with a singeing of 
his eyebrows from a gasoline explosion he was mixed up in last 
week. He was investigating with a lighted match the depths of 
some receptacle from wjiich he thought every element of dan- 
ger had been removed. He was speedily convinced of his error. 

G. H. Hurlbert, president of the Middktown Plate Company, 
who came to the city recently to attend the funeral of C. F. Liv- 
ermore and to look into the matter of a successor for him in the 
management of the company's Western office here, left town 
early last week. He was not able to say then as to who had been 
appointedMr. Livermore's successor. 

H. F. Hahn, of H. F. Hahn & Co., returned last week from a 
pleasant six weeks* recreation in the South. Mr. Hahn says he 
has not felt better in ten years than he does now. 

The Bradley & Hubbard Manufacturing Company, manufac- 
turers of lamps and art metal goods, will move soon from their 
present location on the second f^oor of the Masonic Temple to 
the room on the eighth floor of the Silversmiths' Building, at 
131 to 137 Wabash avenue, recently vacated by the Chicago 
branch of the New Haven Clock Company and the New Eng- 
land Watch Company. 

John H. Hardin, vice-president of F. A. Hardy & Co., was ex- 
pected back from his Western trip jn Monday. 

E. S. Sundberk, of Fargo, N. D., was in town last week on his 
way back from a few weeks spent in Florida. 

Thomas E. Miles, cashier of the Chicago office of the Seth 
Thomas Clock Company, has been spending a few days in Ala- 
bama recently. 

Colonel W. A. Moore, treasurer of the Dueber- Hampden 
Watch Works, w^as in town last week. He stopped at the Pal- 
mer House. 

John H. Mather, Chicago manager of George H. Fuller & 
Co., in the Columbus Memorial Building, was away for a good 
part of last week and this. 

Mr. Chambers, of Chambers & Tuskeep, went up to Mil- 
waukee last Thursday for a couple of days, taking with him the 
new ophthalmometer they are. now perfecting. 



O. W. Wallis & Co. and T. W. Adams & Co. have moved 
from Room 605 in the Columbus Memorial Building to the cor- 
responding room two stairs above, No. 806. 

Armed with two revolvers and carrying diamonds valued at 
$3,000, Bert Robinson, said by the police to be a noted ''penny- 
weighter," was arrested last night in front of the Palmer House 
by Detectives Mackey and McCarthy, of the Central Station. 
The scheme at which he is said to be an adept is as simple as it 
is lucrative. The "pennyweighter" calls at a jewelry store and 
asks to see a diamond. A tray is placed on the counter, which 
the customer inspects. He selects one, and promises to purchase 
it in a short time, and leaves. In a few moments the merchant 
discovers the visitor has stolen one or two gems, either replac- 
ing them with paste diamonds or not at alU Robinson has been 
arrested on several occasions on charges of this character, and 
once was convicted. 

Among the buyers in town are: E. L. Davies, Nelson, Neb.; 
George R. Strickland. New London, Wis.; J. Medinkow. Mil- 
waukee, Wis.; E. B. Sherman, Grays Lake, 111.; W. C. Barnes, of 
Clock and Barnes, St. Joseph, Mich.; Guinand, of Guinand Bros., 
Ashland, Wis.; E. S. Newcomb, Big Rapids, Mich.; E. S. Thay- 
er, Rockford, 111.; N. E. Benart, Rockford, 111.; R. S. Patterson, 
Port Huron, Mich.; M. H. Ennar, Apple River, 111.; T. J. Dale, 
Kenosha, Wis.; Charles Geishirt, Niles Mich.; M. Strouse, Mc- 
Gregor, la. 

A. B. Snow, of New York, was in town last week, stopping at 
the Leland Hotel. 

Lloyd Milnor, president of Spaulding and Company, returned 
from a short Eastern trip last week. 

Charles Lochnel, of New York, was in town last week. He 
stopped at the Brevoort House. 

Edward O. Sisson, dean of the Bradley Polytechnic Institute, 
at Searia, was in town last week. 

President Charles H. Hulburd, of the Elgin National Watch 
Company, left town for a fortnight's Eastern trip, last Friday. 

Mrs. George W. Purdy, wife of the Saginaw (Mich.) watch- 
maker, met with a serious accident last week, through the care- 
lessness of some person who left open a trap door in the kitchen 
of their home. Mrs. Purdy's son, Will A Purdy, travels for J. 
H. Purdy & Co., of Chicago. 

The wedding of William F. Juergens, of the Juergens & An- 
derson Company, takes place this week. Mr. Juergens' bride 
is Miss Marie Tanise Heissler, daughter of Mrs. Jacob Heissler, 
4427 Grand Boulevard. 

Geo. Cook, of Madison, S. D., was in Chicago recently, for 
the first time in eight years. 

S. Buchsbaum & Co. are moving into larger quarters, adding 
to their old offices the rooms until recently occupied by the 
American Cutlery Company. This gives them an increased office 
room, which they needed greatly. 

Simon Goldsmith, of the firm of Goldsmith Bros., who do so 




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April 26, 1899. 



THE JEWELi!.RS REVIEW 



537 



large a refining and assaying business, is expected back from his 
Western trip about the first of the month. 



CINCINNATI 



The design submitted by the Duhme Jewelry Company to the 
Executive Board of Directors of the golden jubilee saengerfest 
that is to be held in Cincinnati, June 27, secured the award for 
the only official badges. The order is for 10,000 badges, and the 
design has b.een copyrighted by the designer, C. F. Goettheim. 

There will be some trouble in settling up the dispute between 
the Gibson estate, owning the building in which is located the 
store of A. & J. Plaut, and that jewelery concern. The building is 
to be torn down and a new one erected in its place. The owners 
w^ant the jewelers to get out by Oct. i and the firm, having a 
lease for a year longer is not inclined to do so. 

The xic^ icature in fine art pottery that has stirred up admirers 
of the work all over the country called the crystaline glaze has 
been made for the first time in this country by the Rookwood 
Pottery. The glaze is pronounced one of the most beautiful ef- 
fects that can be obtained and has been made in but two potter- 
ies of the world, the Royal Copenhagen and the Berlin. 

A new retail jewelry store has been established at Muncie, 
Ind., under the firm name of Greyer & Scott. Both the part- 
ners are young men formerly of Anderson, Ind., one of them the 
son of the best known jeweler of that place. 

A. G. Schwab & Bro. received an order this week from Cuba 
for 1,200 medals. The medals are for a regiment of troops and 
will be manufactured in Cincinnati and forwarded as rapidly as 
possible. 

George W. Niles, of New Milford, O., was in Cincinnati this 
week. 

Joseph Noterman, the head of the long established manufactur- 
ing jewelry firm of Jos. Noterman & Co. will arrive home this 
week from his winter residence in the South where he has been 
for several months. 

Herman Keck, of the Duhme Jewelry Company, who has been 
in London purchasing diamonds for his firm, has gone to Hol- 
land. 



DETROIT 

Thomas F. Cornerford and Oscar B. Marx, of the Michigan 
Optical Company have engaged in the manufacture of the Stand- 
ard computing scale, which is made under the Jarnichen and Os- 
borne patents. They are now arranging for a site for their pro- 
posed new building. The new company has a paid-in capital of 
$130,000. Mr. Cornerford is president. Both gentlemen will re- 
tain their connection with the Michigan Optical Company. 

Aid. Oscar B. Marx of the Michigan Optical Company is pres- 
ident pro tem of the Detroit Common Council and chairman of 
the County Board of Supervisiors. He is leading the fight in 
the Council for municipal ownership of the street railway system. 

Jonas Lundin, a jeweler from Kingston, Ont, came to Detroit 
last week in an endeavor to better himself. Failure caused de- 
spondency, and Friday evening a patrolman found him writhing 
in pain on the wharf at the foot of Woodward avenue. "I'm 
tired of life," said Lundin, "and I've taken enough poison to 
stop the flow of my blood." A city physician pumped him out 
and his blood is again flowing naturally. Lundin is 45 years 
old and has a wife and three children in Kingston. 

Thomas Davis of the Middletown (Conn.) Plate Company was 
in town this week. 

TOLEDO 

Since J. J. Freeman has secured the agency of the Libbey 
glass, he has had a special show room, lighted by electricity, 
built in the rear of his store for exhibiting the products of the 
Libbey Company. 

One of the most important events in connection with the Ohio 
Centennial, which occurs in Toledo in 1902, was the selection of 
Mr. E. D. Libbey, as the chief of the department of exhibits. He 
is the proprietor of the great Libbey Glass Works, of this city, a 
concern which manufactures the finest cut glass in the country. 
Mr. Libbey in securing this coveted position in connection with 
the great Exposition guarantees to the people of this country 
that he will put up the finest display ever seen at such a celebra- 
tion and those who know him are assured that he will do as he 
says. Mr. Libbey is sure to have a magnificent display of art 
goods and jewelry and, being closely in touch with the trade, he 
will be able to reach just the class of exhibitors he wants. 



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ESTABLISHED 1854. 



INCORPORATED 1893 



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....MAKER3 OF FINE JEWELRY.... 

Chicago. 



92 to 98 STATE STREET, 
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Telephone, MAIN 1920. 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 26, 1899. 



SPECIAL NOTICES. 

Matter inserted under this head, as cents a line each issoe. Two insertions, 
so cents a line each issae. Four or more insertions, xo cents a line each issoe. 

SITUATIONS WAHTBD and HBLP WANTED adrertisements will be in- 
serted for one cent a word. No advertisement under either of these headings 
wiU be receired for less than as cents. Cash must accompany order. 

Subscribers may use this department free of charge. 



BHSiiim Oppormiiities 



WRITE FULTON & YEAGLEY, ATTORNEYS, DEN- 
TON TEXAS, if you have notes or claims against Texas 
parties that you desire settled or compromised. 

mip OPaiitea 

WANTED at once experienced and competent die-maker 
Celluloid and Cloth-Covered Buttons and Badges. Must 
prove ability. Steady employment for the right party. M. 
ERNST, Cleveland, Ohio. 



Headquarters for American Turquoise 
ANDERSON BUILDING, 

12 to 16 John St., New York. 

J. G. DOTY, AGENT 

The Am. Turq. Co. 



NEWS OF THE TRAVELING MEN 

Under this head we cive from week to week the moTemente of the travdiic 
repieeeiitAtiyee of the trade. We shall welcome any notes they may eend as 
from time to time of matters of interest. 

Traveling men in town during the past week included the fol- 
lowing salesmen: Mr. Stearns, Roy Watch Case Company; Mr. 
Imfeld, Hendrick & Co.; E. R. Knight, S. B. Champlin & Co.; 
W. R. Kettell, H. E. Oppenheimer & Co.; Imng L. Russell, L. 
Tannenbaum & Co.; Mr. Schnedeker, Schultz & Rudolph; Otto 
H. Wolff, Neresheimer & Co.; Mr. Sherrell, Sinnock & Sher- 
rell; Jack Tweedy, Cheever, Tweedy & Co.; W. R. Cobb, W. R. 
Cobb & Co.; Harry Barrows, H. F. Barrows & Co.; Tom 
Frothingham, T. J. Frothingham & Co.; W. G. Clark, W. G. 
Clark & Co.; J. B. Ellis, Parks Brothers & Rogers; Mr. Losses 
S. & J. Van Wezel; Eugene Cox, Sussfeld, Lorsch & Co.; Har- 
old Sweet, R. F. Simmons & Co.; Louis Jones, George A. 
Marsh & Co.; T. B. Wilcox, Pairpoint Manufacturing Company. 

Among the traveling men in Philadelphia during the week 
were; Harry Lartee, of Lartee Elcox & Co.; Charles Duffy, of 
Enos, Richardson & Co.; L. P. Lewis, of Morris Prager & Co.; 
Herman Friese, F. W. Lewis & Co.; Ben Lusiom, Bippart & 
Co.; F. H. Woodman, of Woodman, Cook & Co.; Frank Herr, 
of G. C. Reisner & Co.; James Hughes, of E. M. Bracher & 
Co., and Mr. Corbin, of Waterbury Clock Company. 

Travelers in Toronto: Mr. Hirsch, of Hirsch Bros., 40 
Toengesgasse Frankfort, manufacturers of fancy leather goods; 
H. L. Lyman, of the Dennison Manufacturing Company, New 
York; Mr. Bowen, representing J. Eastwood & Sons, New Glas- 
gow, N. S.. manufacturers of rolled gold chains, etc.; C. H. A. 
Grant, of the Montreal Watch Case Company. 

R. H. Schley, a traveling jeweler of New York, was here last 
week. He put up at the Victoria Hotel. 

J. H. McCormick, who has been on a long Western trip for 
the Western office of the Waterbury Clock Company has re- 
turned. He brings good reports as to business conditions. 

W. A. Montague, formerly engaged in the retail jewelry busi- 
ness in Duluth, Minn., has accepted a position as traveling sales- 
man with Woodstock, Hoefer & Co. 



Page. 

At the Hotels 53© 

A Sun-Dial Exhibition 5»8 

Business Changes 53^ 

Business Troubles S3' 

Customs • 535 

Reappraisements of Merchandise 5^5 

Canadian News 534 

Toronto Notes 534 

Ceramics 54© 

Deeds and Mortgages 533 

Diamonds and Other Precious Stones 540 

State of the Foreign Gem Markets 540 

Editorials ;••••• 5>9 

Improved Accommodations in the Lane. 519 

Promoters and Capitalists 5^9 

Here and There 53^ 

Horological ••• 54^ 

Hand vs. Machine Work 542 

Celebrated Watches Stolen 54= 

Count von Larisch 542 

Pivots and Polishers 542 

An Old Time Order 54? 

How to Increase Your Trade S-^o 

.Advertising as an Aid to Business 520 

Improvements. New Goods and Patents 539 

New Patents Granted 533 

Joseph M. Bates 5»7 

Middle Atlantic State News 526 

New York Notes 526 

Trenton Notes 5^^ 

Washington Notes 5-^^ 

Philadelphia 5^** 

Pittsburg 529 

New Business Ventures 53' 

New England News 533 

Boston Notes 533 

Attleboro News 533 

News of the Lake States 536 

Chicago Notes 536 

Boston News 533 

Obituary •' 535 

Optics and Opticians 522 

Review of Phoroscope 5^2 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

Page. 

Acknowledgment of Articles 522 

Of Interest to Optical Literatii 523 

The Chalmer Prentice Retinoscope 523 

Pacific and Rocky Mountain News 534 

San Francisco Notes 534 

Scientific and Industrial 518 

Setting of Tools 5»8 

Southern and Western News 535 

St. Louis Notes 535 

Louisville Notes 535 

Kansas City Notes 535 

New Orleans Notes 535 

Minneapolis Notes 535 

Trade Notes and Queries 525 

INDEX TO ADVERTISERS. 

Anderson Hotel 528 

Arnstein Bros. & Co 548 

Baccarat Glassware 54i 

Barthman, Wm 54^ 

Bergen. J. D. & Co 541 

Bowden, J. B 5«8 

Bowman, J. H 547 

Brown, D. V 5-23 

Chester Billings & Son 51^ 

Clewer, Henry 548 

Cook, Edward N 548 

Davison Bros 5** 

Dueber, The Watch Works 521 

Druiff, S. & S 520 

Eaton & Glover 5-^5 

Eisler & Laubheim 5+4 

F'ahys Cases 546 

Fritsche, L 520 

Hamilton Watch Co 545 

Hedges, W. S. & Co 517 

Hirsch, L 548 

Hraba, L. H 547 

Jurgensen, J 544 

Juergens & Anderson Co 537 

Kahn. L. & M., & Co 548 

Kirstein, E., Sons Company 522 

Kohn. Alois & Co 540 



Page. 

Kramer, H. S 544 

Lelong & Bro 54S 

Lewis & Co 518 

Malliet, C. G., & Co 548 

Mercantile National Bank 526 

Mount & Woodhull 517 

Munn & Co 547 

Murine Co 520 

New England Watch Co 543 

Moore & Co 527 

Noble, F. H., & Co 524 

Northern Illinois College 5*) 

New York Mutual Optical Co 525 

Oppenheimer Bros. & Vcith ." 548 

Owens, J. B., Pottery Co 541 

Osborne, C. H 54* 

Passmore, Edwin 544 

Philadelphia Commercial Museum, The 547 

Ponyat, J 54' 

Randall, J 548 

Reichhelm, E. P., & Co m8 

Rosenbaum & Adlcr 520 

Schwartz, J. W 547 

Southbridgc Optical Company 523 

Smith, Alfred H., & Co 530 

Seccomb & Sperry Co 524 

Special Notices 53' 

Spencer Optical Co 548 

Stern Bros 533 

Straus, L., & Sons 54' 

Sumner-Grimes Co 548 

Stockwell, E. R 540 

Tannenbaum, L 528 

Toric Optical Company 523 

Towle Mfg. Co 5^ 

Valfer. S.. & Co 546 

Victoria Hotel 54^ 

Waters, John & Son 548 

Wilcoxson, G. F. 547 

Willson, H. B., & Co 5*8 

Wood, C. F., & Co 548 

Worrell & Fahey 5*4 

Zeller, Wolf & Bro 5» 



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April 26. 1899. 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



539 



Chicago: — Fernand J. Wirtz, with F. A. Hardy & Co., Chicago; 
Thomas E. Rogers, with Hiker Brothers, Newark; F. L. Car- 
penter, with Frank M. Whiting & Co., North Attleboro; M. 
Baum, with Rothschild Brothers, New York; K. H. Clarke, 
with Meriden Brittannia Company, Meriden; W. F. Adams, 
with Simpson, Hall, Miller & Co., Chicago office; A. S. Alfred, 
with George B. Hurd & Co., New York; J. C. Carroll, with the 
Van Bergh Silver Plate Company, Chicago office; F. P. Damon, 
with Stone Brothers, New York; R. L. Kintz, with E. G. Web- 
ster & Son, Brooklyn. 

Mr. Owen, representing Jennings Bros. Manufacturing Com- 
pany, of Bridgeport, Conn., is occupying a room in the Holland 
building, St. Louis, Mo., with a line of clocks and novelties. He 
expects to stay about two weeks. 

Salesmen in town: F. L. Pettee, Waterbury Clock Company; 
W. S. Willis, Gorham Manufacturing Company, Chicago; H. C. 
Barkes, Mandeville, Carrow & Crane, Newark, N. J.; J. F. Dean, 
Reed & Barton, Taunton, Mass.; E. Lange, P. W. Lambert & 
Co., New York; E. A. Reed, Reed & Barton, Taunton, Mass.; 
Henry H. Jacobson, Jacobson Brothers, New York; W. E. 
Pearse, Howard Sterling Company, Providence; Fraijk F. Gib- 
son, William Kinscherf, New York; J. A. Browne, Reeves & 
Browne, Newark; F. R. Kingler, The H. A. Kirby Company, 
New York; M. W. Smith, S. B. Champlin Company, Provi- 
dence. 

H. B. Kintz, traveling man for A. H. Gering, has been con- 
fined to his home for the past two weeks by illness. He is rapid- 
ly convalescing and expects to be at work again this week. 

The following traveling men called on the trade during the 
past week in Pittsburg, Pa.: A. S. Holly, Towle Manufacturing 
Company; E. S. Goodwin, Clogg, Wright & Co.; George W. 
Bleecker, Martin, Copeland & Co.; Providence Optical Com- 
pany, W. H. Hurlbert; A.' D. Engelman, Goodfriend Bros.; L B. 
Ettinger, Gattle, Ettinger & Hammel; Mr. Rodenburg, Roden- 
burg & Dunn; George H. Remington, Waite, Mathewson & Co.; 
Mr. Heiser, M. Baum, Rothschild Bros.; H. B. Kennion, Parks 
Bros. & Rogers; W. S. Dudley, Rogers, Smith & Co.; John A. 
Abel, David Kaiser & Co.: Charles B. Bartlett, Whiting Manu- 
facturing Company; Mr. Ford. Ford & Carpenter: Leo Henle, 
Sussfeld, Lorsch & Co.; D. Skutch, New Haven Clock Comp.^ny; 
Mr. Tinker, W. B. Durgin Company; Clarence Uettit, Link & 
Angell; W. H. Bryant, T G. Hawkes & Co.; W. Hofman, Eich- 
berg & Co.; E. A. Reed, Reed & Barton; W. L. Washbourne, 
Redlich & Co.; J. M. Morrow, American Watch Case Company; 
Mr. Parker, Osman, Parker Company; A. Kiersky, A. Kiersky 
& Co.; Mr. Stevenson, E. G. Webster & Son; E. W. Brannon, 
J. W. Reddall & Co.; for William Norton, C. F. Gottschalk. 



NEW PATENTS GRANTED 





623,253 



623,1^. Clock Winding Indicator. 
Miss. Filed June 20, " ~ 



Augustus G. Jacobs, Jonestown, 
" -' lei.) 

Philadelphia, Pa. 



Serial No. 683,933« (No model.) 
Christian H. " 



. 1898. 

623^131. Ophthal Dynameter. Christian K. Brown, 
Filed Dec. 18, 1897. Serial No. 683.3^8. (No model.) 

Claim.— I. An ophthalmic measuring instrument comprising a plate of 
a width greater than twice the distance between the eyes of a person and 
having a central vision-opening, clips or supports at the rear of said plate 
for the reception of removable lenses, a holder for a test object and means 
for positively traveling said holder toward and from said plate, substantially 
as specified. « 




V 



623,131 



623,253^ Picture-Frame. Edward McDonald, Chicago, 111. Filed Jan. 
i3» 1899. Serial No. 702,020. (No model.) 

623,212. Eyeglasses. Louis B. Hilbom, Newark, N. J., assignor of one- 
half to Frederick C. J. Wiss and Louis X. W'iss, same place. Fflcd Dec. 24. 
1897. Serial No. 663,283. (No model.) _ 







IM?r.OVE\:ENTS, N£V GOOES AND PATENTS 

Under this head nctll appear descriptions of all new productions in Machin- 
ery. Tools, Uanufactorers' Designs and Patents, domestic and foreign, relating 
to the trade. Those interested are requested to forward us for publication, 
free of charge, full descriptions of articles, with photographs or drawings 
whenever possible. 

The demand for small hearts, engraved on one side with a 
fancy device and on the other with the initial letter or mono- 
gram of the giver has of late been very large, and manufactur- 
ers have been turning them out in large quantities, and almost 




numberless designs in gold and silver, some being chased and 
others beautifully enameled. They are made for attaching to a 
bracelet, which when it is filled makes a very pretty piece of 
jewelry. 



623,461. Fountain-Pen. George W. Bryant and Thomas C. Townsend, 
Gravesend, England. Filed Dec. 27, 1897. Serial No. 663,747. (No model.) 



623.474- Fountain-Pen. Albert A. Hoffman, Bloomington, 111. Filed 
Feb. 15, 1898. Serial No. 670,395. (No model.) 



DESIGNS 



32.722. Silver-plated Ware. Bernard Rice's Sons, New York, N. Y. 
Filed March 24, 1899. 



30,588 




30,556 



30,577 



Filed 



30,556. Badge or similar article. Charles W. Bingeman, Buffalo, N. Y. 



td March 21, 1890. Serial No. 709,983. Term of patent 3^ years. 

30,561. Dinner-Plate. Oswald W. Schubert, Milwaukee, Wis. F«'H 
Jan. 23, 1899. Serial No. 703,184. Term of patent 7 years. 

30,577.. Clock-Frame. Emile Hardy, New York, N. Y. Filed March 
1899. Serial No. 710,100. Terra of patent 3}^ years. 



30,588. Razor-Handle, etc. Marshall C. Lefferts, New York, N. Y., as- 

^ ^ same place, a Corporation of New 

708,613. Term of patent 7 years. 



signor to the Celluloid Company, same place, a Corporation of New Jersey. 
Filed March 10, 1899. Serial No. 



TRADE MARKS 



^c«..iM INDEPENDENT 






32,721. Stylographic and Fountain-Pens. J. Ullrich & Co., New York, 
N. Y. Filed March 17, 1899- 

32,748. Materials for Sharpening, Grinding, Boring „. 

Chemjsche Thermo- Industrie Cesellschaft mit *Beschrankter Haftung, Es 



Boring and Polishing. 



sen, Germany. Filed March 23, 1899. 



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THE JEW:.i.ERS REVIEW 



April 26, 1899. 



CERAMICS 

Under this head special attention will be eiven to pottery, hric-a-brac atd 
poroelain, which now fonn an important part of the jeweler's trade. Fine 
products of the potter's art have always been prized by the select few bat 
recently the popular taste has caused a demand for these goods which has 
encouraged artists of recognized ability in their production, as new wares ara 
constantly appearing, especially in foreicn countries. 




UTOPIAN FAIENCE. 

We have several times of late had occasion to notice the effort 
that is being made by some of our manufacturers to emulate the 
example of the English and European potteries of producing 

ware in which each 
piece has the merit of 
being unique in shape 
or design. There is to 
the lover of objects of 
art an added charm in 
knowing that his pos- 
sessions, be they pic- 
tures, jewelry or ce- 
ramic ware, are for him 
alone, and that they are 
not duplicated. Such 
is the case with the 
example of Utopian 
Faience ware which we 
illustrate. Not only is 
the style of ornamenta- 
tion unique, but the 
very shape is the crea- 
tion of a master hand, 
and is thoroughly orig- 
inal. To us it would 
seem that the artist has 
gone to nature and has 
taken inspiration from 
pistil and petals of a 
flower. In color, the vase 
is a rich olive green 
toning into a warm 
brown, harmonizing well with the rich yellow of the ear of corn, 
a typical emblem of home production. We need hardly say that 
this ware has already won recognition from lovers of decorative 
pottery. A few specimens in a jeweler's window or show cases 
will not only be sure to attract attention, but also serve as a foil 
to the glistening display of jewelry and silverware. The decora- 
tion on the ware is in underglaze in slight relief, and is the work 
of artists, many of them of international reputation. For the 
specimen illustrated herewith we are indebted to the J. B. Owens 
Pottery Company, Zanesville, Ohio, who, at their New York 
salerooms, 68 and 70 West Broadway, carry a large stock of these 
goods. The prices range from ?5 to $50 and the sizes, designs 
and decorations are endless. 



immediately for their respective homes, and every one appears 
to be well satisfied. Several large orders have been given for 
an American house. Antwerp buyers bought very large bywa- 
ters, while irregulars, silver capes and fine onelees went to Am- 
sterdam. Our polish market was not up to what we expected, 
although, as you will remember, I wrote last week of our excel- 
lent prospects. Several scoiety leaders are in mourning, which 
interferes with business. The Churchills are in mourning for 
the late Duchess of Marlborough. Several Maiden Lane people 
are expected here shortly. Colored stones had a good demand 
and large sales are recorded in the export trade. A large quan- 
tity of American pearls have lately been on this market and met 
with a quick sale. M. DE LYON. 

Amsterdam, April 15. — The market here is brisk and prices 
are firm. Notwithstanding this we have 733 men idle. This is 
caused by the fact that we have to wait for rough, which is none 
to plentiful. Several parcels of yellow were bought by Edward 
Van Dam for his New York factory. Several large sales of 
polish goods were made lately at favorable prices. Paris buyers 
were again'to the front; of course, with the Exhibition in view. 
Several parcels were shipped to America, all at advanced prices. 
Mr. Henry Pollak, president of the diamond workers' union, 
has done a great deal of work for your American strikers. He 
has sent 5,000 guilders and has promised to send money every 
week, and thinks that the New York firms should assist. He 
strongly advocates a uniform scale of prices, which gives every 
one an equal chance on the market. We understand that one 
firm at any rate pays 50 cents a carat less than the other manu- 
facturers, which is a big item. H. CHARLES. 



VASE IN UTOPIAN FAIENCE. 



Henry Fera, 65 Nassau street, New York, is at present polish- 
ing a 37-karat Jagers foutein stone, perfect in color, and without 
a blemish. It. is, he says, one of the finest stones which has ever 
come to this market. 

So distinctive are the characters in diamonds from different 
mines that an experienced buyer at once tells the locality of any 
particular parcel of stones. De Beers and Kimberley mines are 
distinguished by large, yellowish crystals. Dutoitspan yields 
mainly colored stones, while Bulfontein — half a mile off — pro- 
duces small white stones, occasionally speckled and flawed, but 
rarely colored. 



TRADE PUBLICATIONS RECEIVED. 

In this column we shall note the interesting features of our various ex- 
changes and shall give notes of the trade publications which are issued. We 
invite our readers to send us their new catalogues, circulars, and other publi- 
cations of general interest, to which we shall be pleased to devote a portion 
^of this space. 

'The Retailer," a publication devoted to the interests of retail 
merchants in Canada, is out with an extra number for March. 
From appearance this journal promise^to do much toward keep- 
ing the trade together for concerted action in respect to various 
movements for its welfare. 



DIAMONDS AND OTHER PREQOUS STONES. 

Under this head wiU appear all matter of interest to lapidaries, indnding 
foreign diamond market reports and all other news relating to precious stones. 
While we cannot publish all correspondence received, yet matterB ol inteiesc 
will always zeoeiye a place in this department. 

STATE OF THE FOREIGN GEM MARKETS 

Antwerp, April 15. — Rough buyers arrived yester from Lon- 
don with a fair supply of goods; not so much as we wanted, but 
still enough to keep us busy for a week. Coetermans has a 
large shipment of big yellow, for which it seems he has an order, 

*bey are not to be split. Latine, Coetermans & Tailkowsky 
have sold large parcels of polish goods. Max Tom, Van Ant- 
werpen & Van der Bosch have also had a good share of the 
business. Business in the diamond club was also brisk, Paris, 
Russian and Vienna buyers buying heavily. From here these 
buyers went to Amsterdam, to buy the smaller grade goods, so 
both markets have had a share of the good trade. Several of our 
workmen complain of poor business, but are under orders of 
their respective unions not to cross the ocean while the strike 
lasts at Kryn & Wonters factory. J. AKIE. 

London, April 15. — We had the regulars here this week and 
had no trouble in disposing of our rough goods. Buyers from 
Belgium and Holland bought what was to he bought and left 



FVFPYTHIMn >" ""«' Badges, Rings 

L V Ll\ I I I limVl MprialQ. Ruttufift 





Medals, Buttons. 

FOR ^ 

College, Seminary, 
School, Fraternity, 
Society, Club, 

from any required design carefully 
ezeouted. 

E. R. STOCKWELL, 180 B'way, M M. 

j ALOIS KOHN & CO. . j 

mawnTaciwrmoT Solid 60l(l tMnS \ 

I LORGNETTES AND GUARDS A SPECIALTY. I 

I 4 MAIDEN LANE, NEW YORK. I 



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April a6, 1899. 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



541 



The Straus American Cut Glass 



An extensive variety of pieces 
designed specially for presenta- 
tion purposes. 




Moderate Prices. 



REIQNS SUPREME 
in quality of crystal, 
workmanship and 
brilliant finish. 



For the convenience of the 
trade, we have also prepared as- 
sortments at $50, $75 and $ioo. 
Illustrations of these may be had 
on application. 



TRADE MARK. 



FACTORY ! 

89tta 5tre«t and North River, 

New York. 



L. STRAUS & SONS, Manufacturers, 




46 Warren Street, New York. 



^^^.^^^^^r^f^M Pouyat China for '99. 




OociETE La Ceramjque 

J. POUYAT 

of LiSUOGES , Fr<svnce. 

Established 1733 

NEW-YORK, 50 Weal BroAdwAy. 
PARIS, 72 Rue d'Hauteville. 

LONDON, T2 BarllctL'a Buildinds.Holbom Ciix:us 



It IS a line replete with dainty novelties 
such as jewelers delight to exhibit to 
critical customers. 
See the new collection of samples at the 



^^c:^ 



P OFFICE, ^^ West Broadway, 

jjfj^ or send us a postal card and \vc will have 

V-^?3fT)7 .^ »i«0-^^;^,,>J_> %3;, J?^ one of our travelers call upon vou. 




38 Murray St. 
NEW YORK 



pOREMOSTfiLINE OF^^ 

^ AMERICAN CUT GLASS. 

New and Beauttful Shapes. Send for Catalosfue. Electros furnished for Advertisins:. 

Color Perfect* Beauty of Design and Brilliancy 
of Finish Unquestionable* 

The Dealer who handles ''BERGEN'' CUT GLASS can defy competition^ because quality of Goods and Prices afe right* 

I ITADI AMP A IITIWir^ir A high-glaze ART POTTERY in beautiful blendings, 

■ I I VVl^l^kl^ I J^l lI^^^L« ^^ ^"*^ Green, Mauve and Brown. Each piece distinctive; free 

^■^ ^^ hand decorations, great variety in shapes. 

The Line is specially adapted for the Retail Jeweler. Prices for the different pieces vary from 50 cents to $100. 




New York Salesroom: 

W. H. DUNN, 6&-70 ^est Broadway^ 



. J. B. OWENS POTTERY CO., "tSS^T 



BACCARAT GLASSWARE 

(Cristalleries de Baccarat, France). 

Trad^^Mark. Gflt, EngfavccI ond Cut SUHtWare 

in many UNIQUE and HANDSOME DESIGNS, specially adapted for ReUil 

Jewelers. 
Largr variety of CUT GLASS PIECES /or Silvertmitks. 

New York ONice, 41 Warren Street, PAUL DtRAND, 




PECiALTiES IN Desseit Plates, Fish 
and Game Sets, Cups 
and Saucers, Art Pieces, 

DAVISON BROS., ,, .J^^i:,!:^' 

Showrooms, 12 Barclay Street, New York. 



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542 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 26, 1899. 




This department is devoted to practical and theoretical articles relating to 
the measurement of time and kindred subjects. In addition to the contributions 
of regular writers, the views of expert horologists will appear from time to time, 
as well as expressions of opinion and individual experiences of watch, clock and 
chronometer makers. 



Subscribers are invited to send questions on matters on which 
they desire information. These ivill be answered through our 
columns, which are also open for the ventilation of all phases of 
Horological opinion. 

Communications Should be Addressed Horological Dept., 
The Jewelers Review, 170 & 172 Broadway, New York. 



Henry Ganney Editor. 



Vol. XXXn 



APRIL 26. 1899 



No. 17 



The principal difference between European 
Hand schools of watchmaking and ^hose of America 

versus consists chiefly in the form«- bein^ a public 

Mschlm Work and the other a private institution. The 
American schools make a feature of the use of 
lathes and tools similar to those used in American factories, 
while the foreign schools aim at making the pupils more inde- 
pendent of automatic or elaborate tools. They also require him to 
make for himself most of the small implements he uses in his art. 
Another point is that these schools confine themselves to watch- 
making, and do not teach clockmaking except theoretically. 

The American schools, with the exception of one at Toronto, 
which confines itself to watchmaking, and seems very successful 
in turning out pupils of ability, usually teach jewelry repairing, 
engraving and optics in addition to the branches of watch sxa* 
clock making. The periods of study, too, are of shorter duration. 
The quick apprehension of American youths may enable 
them to imbibe a large amount of useful knowledge that fits them 
for positions of useful store assistants, but the system is hiatxHy 
so well adapted to make them specially skilled artisans in either 
of the branches of the arts they are taught. The American plan 
of watchmaking has introduced the system of gauging and 
measurement in the production of work, and American watch re- 
pairers are seeking to work on the same lines, but as the repairer 
does not have two siipilar jobs in succession it is difficult to fol- 
low this method, which is adapted to the production of large 
quantities. The old system of "touch and try" will continue to be 
the best for the general repairer to follow; and though the gauge 
and measure is followed in the crafts of the engineer, carpenter 
and others, who work to actual measurement, the watchmaker 
has reckoned his work too fine to be measured or made by any 
instrument lately to be obtained. 

The American watch factories will eventually show what can 
be done or what are the limits in this direction. Already they 
claim to have accomplished all that is required, but they are still 
dependent on the "touch and try" system of skilled hand workers 
for the final finishing of all their machine work. UnHl the fac- 
tory machines and gauges can turn out a hair spring and balance 
or a pendulum that will keep time without further alteration, the 



"touch and try" system holds the field against all machine and 
gauged work. The exact length of a seconds pendulum is com- 
mon knowledge, and measuring instruments for fractions of 
i,oooths of an inch are common, but an exact or a succession of 
exact pendulums has never been produced, and probably like 
the mathematical point or line or the perfect timekeeper, never 
will be produced, for it represents a perfection unattainable by 
human skill, though common enough and apparently the rule in 
the works of Nature. 



CELEBRATED WATCHES STOLEN 

TAKEN FROM GUILDHALL LIBRARY, LONDON. 

Nine watches included in the exhibition of the Clockmakers' 
Company at the Guildhall Library in London were recently 
stolen from the Rev. H. L. Nelthropp, author of the well known 
treatise on watch work past and present, who presented the col- 
lection to the company a few years ago. The collection illus- 
trated the growth of the art of horology from the very earliest 
times, and prior to the theft was complete in every detail. 

The following is a description of the articfes stolen. The first 
watch was dated 1791, and was made by Robin, the watchmaker 
to the French king. It was a beautiful specimen of the horo- 
logical art, but was more especially interesting because it con- 
tained the escapement he invented, and that it was thought when 
introduced would be universally adopted. Some flaw or other 
was, however, soon discovered, and it passed out of use very 
shortly afterward. The escapement is described by Saunier, 
page 517 of his "Treatise on Modern Horology." Very few 
watches containing this escapement are now to be met with, and 
their value in the rostrum increases year by year. (Catalogue 
No. 99.) The second watch stolen was one made by Breguet, of 
Paris, of about the same period. Its chief feature consisted of 
its being an early example of the movement technically known as 
"flirting the hour." In other words, the hour hand remains sta- 
tionary until the minute hand revolves and reaches 12, and then 
by a clever piece of mechanism it jumps the space to the hour 
completed. This watch, too, was one of the treasures of the col- 
lection, as the movement is only rarely met with. (Catalogue 
No. 99 A.) Another watch stolen also bore the name of Breguet, 
though the Rev. H. L. Nelthropp rather questions whether that 
celebrated watchmaker really made it. It seems that at the 
time of the Revolution he had to flee from Paris, and the suppo- 
sition is that he crossed into Switzerland, and there, in order to 
keep body and soul together, conceded to certain watchmakers 
the right to trade on his name and reputation. The beauty of 
this watch consisted of the chaste enamel work. A better speci- 
men it would have been difficult to find. (Catalogue No. 119) 
Even more interesting was the next-door neighbor to this watch. 
It also bore the name of Breguet, but in a like way it is con- 
jectured that it was not of his manufacture. Its charm rested in 
th° enameling at the back of the case. The subject was *Thc 
Death of Cleopatra," and the design was copied with remarkable 
skill from the historic picture to be seen at the Dresden Galler}^ 
(Catalogue No. 120.) A watch by Ruegger, of Geneva ((Cata- 
logue No. 122), is also included among those missing. Another 
watch (by Rouma, Catalogue No. 123) taken represented the 
period at which the musical movement was the vogue. Watches 
of this character were greatly prized in the early days of this 
century, and, though the workmanship was crude in the extreme 
as far as the harmony was concerned, high prices were always 
obtained for the novelty by the watchmakers of the day. At 
the present time they are greatly sought after, and it -is no un- 

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April 26, 1899. 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



543 



common thing for collectors to run the price up to close upon 
£50 or more when a specimen is offered at Christie's. Another 
valuable watch stolen was one made by Vaucher Freres. (Cata- 
logue No. 124.) It was a splendid piece of work, and possessed 
as its characteristic feature what is termed a parachute or jump- 
ing piece, that is fixed over the balance staff upper pivot, and 
yields when subjected to a jerk or blow, the mechanism in this 
way escaping injury. The watch was further interesting because 
it possessed two dials on the face, the one indicating, it is pre- 
sumed, mean time, and the other the time of the town or locality. 
Another stolen watch (Catalogue No. 125) was a very beautiful 
gold watch set with pearls and turquoises. It was French work, 
and was in all probability made toward the end of the reign of 
Louis XVI. Last, the Clock Watch, by Barraud, Cornhill, bear- 
ing date letter 1798, was stolen. This type of watch is very rare. 



COUNT VON LARISCH 

Working industriously in his small, practical watchmaking es- 
tablishment on Houston street', a few doors from Broadway, may 
be seen Lieutenant Count von Larisch, whose history is both 
interesting and romantic. 

A nobleman by birth and holding the commission of a first 
lieutenant in the German army, he had the misfortune of becom- 
ing embroiled with his commanding officer. Major von Ponita, 
arid on the morning of May 23, 1856, while on parade the quarrel 
culminated in the death of the latter at the hands of Count von 
Larisch. The trouble arose over a lady and on the fatal morn- 
ing von Ponita provoked the younger man to such extent that 
he flung his glove in his face. The senior officer at once drew 
his sword and attacked the lieutenant furiously, wounding him 
in the eye and knocking out some of his teeth. The latter de- 
fended himself from further harm by a sabre thrust which 
pierced the heart of his adversary, who fell dead from his 
horse on the spot. Von Larisch then made a gallant dash for 
liberty, and in the confusion he fortunately escaped arrest and 
got safely over the border. 

In the autumn of 1856 Lieutenant von Larisch arrived at 
New Orleans. He adopted his mother's maiden name of Hein- 
eckc, which he still retains. Unable to obtain better employ- 
ment, he began as dishwasher in a restaurant. While serving in 
this menial position he attracted the attention of a patron of the 
establishment, who, taking an interest in the young man, taught 



him his own trade of watchmaking. He remained in the service 
of his friend until the death of the latter, some four years later, 
when he decided to go to New York. The civil war had broken 
out at' this time and the vessel on which he sailed fell into the 
hands of the Confederates, with the result that Heinecke was 
given the alternative of swearing allegiance to the Confederacy 
or of being shot as a spy. He chose the former. His military 

experience stood him in 
good stead and he was 
soon promoted to a po- 
sition on the staff of 
General Beauregard, and 
was wounded at Chatta- 
nooga. Upon recovery 
he was given command 
of Company A, of the 
Louisiana Tigers. His 
bravery was conspicuous- 
ly displayed at Donnel- 
sonville, where at the 
close of the battle, he 
was found by Federal sol- 
diers lying under his 
horse with a broken hip 
and all but riddled with 
bullets. He was sent a 
prisoner to Washington, 
but was released on tak- 
ing the oath of allegi- 
ance, and finally made his 
way to New York. Once 
more he was obliged to resume his occupation of dishwasher, but 
is was not for long, as his employer, Henry Theumes, then of 
233 Broadway, started him again at his trade, and he still main- 
tains the business he founded in 1866. 

In 1869 he married Miss Anna Vogel. Four children have 
been born to them, and now at the age of 65 he is quietly await- 
ing the expiration of the sentence of forty-two years of exile 
passed upon him by the German court martial. When this term 
will have been completed Von Larisch will be restored to his 
former rank and title and will come into an estate of $75,000 
per annum. 




COUNT VON LABI8CH. 




^Cheapest real Watch in the 
world that can be guaranteed. 

^Thin, handsome nickle case. 

^ Ready now. 

^Will go like wild- 
fire. 

^No telling how 
long our stock 
will last. 



^Sold in half-dozen lots only. 

^All so very thoroughly tested in 
the cases that they will withstand 
more than extraordinarily rough 



handling. 



THE NEW ENGUND WATCH CO., 

WATERBURY, CONN. 




le 



544 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April q6, idgg. 



PIVOTS AND POLISHERS 

A London contemporary makes some pertinent remarks, 
touching English appreciative of American tools and showing as 
well the advantages of old, simple methods for the repairer. Can 
anyone give experience of the Whitcomb Polisher or Ameri- 
can Methods? — The pivot makers or mills supplied with the 
"Triumph" and "Martin" lathes are copies of those made by the 
Americans with very slight modifications. They may appear 
clumsy, but are not so in actual use; in fact, when the staff, or 
pinion, is mounted in the lathe a pivot may be made outright in 
a few seconds, without any turning and no risk of breaking. The 
little mills on the end of the running spindle of the accessory 
are best made of soft steel, with sharp corners for square shoul- 
ders or rounded corners for conical pivots, and if charged with 
fine diamond dust will cut quickly, give a fine polish, and last 
indefinitely. While the pinion or staff is mounted in the chuck 
the arbor and pinion face may be finished with the same tool; 
the arbor, straight, true, and sufficiently well polished; the pinion 
face, square, true, and free from burrs, which is all that is needed, 
though perhaps not so pretty-looking to an old-fashioned eye, 
accustomed to look for deeply cut hollows and highly glossed 
faces — mechanical absurdities and relics of the past. In a fac- 
tory, where large numbers of staffs or pinions are to be manipu- 
lated, the economy of this way of working is marvellous, because 
one setting of the tools may do for hundreds or thousands of 
pieces, but the jobber will usually have to spend time on setting 
the lathe and accessory for only one piece of work, the setting 
taking much time while the actual work takes little. An old 
hand, trained in the old way, would get the pivot made long be- 
fore one of the new schools could get his tools in order, but we 
are not all old hands, and new hands, in most cases, must use 
new appliances to be able to do the work at all. In reference to 
this subject, the querist will find illustrations of the tools in the 
"Triumph Review," to be obtained free at any tool dealer's shop, 
accompanied with a most valuable and practical "prize essay," 
by one who speaks from actual experience in the use of the tools. 
Also "Britten's Handbook," ninth edition, pages 200 and 201. In 
May and June of 1897 some paragraphs appeared in the "Watch- 
maker," showing how pivots may be made with a simple lathe, 
with wax chucks only, and no accessories; by far the quickest 
way of all, only requiring a little practice. 

There are some good points about the advice here given, and 
some that are equivocal. The fact that pivots can be formed 
without turning is new, and we should imagine seldom, if ever, 
practical. But as the Watham factory does all its turning on the 
balance staff, at the rate of one a minute, before the staff is hard- 



ened and tempered, the practical making and finishing of the 
pivots and parts is done by the grinding and polishing miHs. We 
were told by Mr. Webster in 1885 that mills for polishing had 
superseded the wigwag, but we saw both in operation at Water- 
bury and Trenton walich factories, so suppose there is not much 
difference in the results or working capacity of cither. No one 
need trouble, however, to use both or either for watch repairing, 
if skilled in the use of the bow and turns. The actual processes 
and their effects being identical in results the simplest should 
have first attention. The depreciation of "well cut hollows" and 
"highly finished pinion faces and arbors" as mechanical absurdi- 
ties and relics of the past, is not in good taste, disguise the foct, 
as we may, watches are largely worn as articles of personal 
adornment, in fact, in many instances they are but pieces of 
jewelry. The use of gold and silver cases for most watches, 
brings them in line with jewelry, whilst chronometers are better 
cased in brass and wood, which proves the point. The well cut 
hollow and highly finished pinion face are true mechanical fea- 
tures, one denoting squareness, and the other lightness, showing 
also the capacity of the workman in the use of the graver of 
which the point only is supposed to be used in all turning opera- 
tions. Oil stone dust and diamondtine have been discredited for 
finishing pivots in London by several authorities, it being assert- 
ed that pivots become charged with the powder and are liable 
to cut the jewel holes. Certainly some jewel holes are elongated 
in an unaccountable manner, for the art of fine pivoting seems 
to have been invented and developed since the last fifty years. 
We may usefully describe the operations. Before that pinion 
filed and burnished pivots were the rule. It is even now assert- 
ed that they were better than those of modem make, but we can- 
not see how, as most good pivoting was burnished with the steel 
burnisher after polishing. In fact, the greater part of the steel 
parts were burnished to impart that dark black color so highly 
valued. The burnisher was usually made from an old file, ground 
down and finished on a dial or pine board 3 inches wide and 12 
inches long, charged with fine flour of emery, one side of the 
board being' rougher by applying emery more frequently to it. 
The reverse was kept smoother, like a razor strop. First one 
side and then the other was used to polish the burnisher, which, 
before using was vigorously rubbed by a clean piece of wash 
leather. Arbors and pivots were beautifully finished by this 
means, but faces or rivets had to be left for the small tube fac- 
ing tool, made of iron, brass or bell metal, which finished them. 
Flat steel work, such as bolts, cannon pinions, indexes, etc., were 
kept scrupulously clean and held by the fingers on a piece of 
cork or soft wood. The burnisher was then lightly held and made 



JULES JURQENSEN <'-elebrated 

Watches and Chronometers 
SCHULZ & RUDOLPH, tS'iSHyirNEWYOBK 

REMOVED^^x 

to 87 Maiden Lane, cor. Gold si, New York. 

In our new quarters we have 3.000 square feet of floor space, filled with 
modem machinery. This means that the trade may rely upon us for the 
very best work, promptly executed. 



EI5LER & LAUBHEIM 

special Order Work. Pine Diamood Monntinp and Jewelry. 

Edwin Passmore 

Crtter.. .-.terta FINE GEMS 

Jliertom Gem a sptdaity 

A FINE ASSORTMET'I IN STOCK 



Room 76, Jewe' .»' BolUini:, Boaton 



H. S. KRAMER, L'tS ««^ 



WATCH MATERIALS, TOOLS, OPTICAL GOODS, 
Watches, Clocks and Jewelry. 



Our new "Jewelers Guide 
will soon be issued. 
Send for it— no charfire. 



CHAS. H. OSBORNE, 

Representinfr^New Jersey Lamp and Bronze Works E. Infraham Clock Co. 
American Cuckoo Clock Co. Parker Clock Co. 

Also A. W. OSBORNE, 
Representing Marble, Smith & Forrester, (Sterlinfr Silver Norelties) 
are now located in commodious ground floor showrooms at 

4J-43 MAIDEN LANE, NEW YORK 



Thomas H. Wobmlu 



m nm 9Mi$ 



RoBmT A. Fabbt. 



WORRELL ft FANEY 

Diamadi «mI otbtr Prtciow $mt 

Watclics and Fine Jewclf7 
%n&l3 Maiden Lane, New York 

Digitized by VnOf™**™' 



April 26, 1899. 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



545 



to find its own level with scarcely any pressure applied lest it 
would scratch the surface. Clean oil on the burnisher was some- 
times used, when rubbing arbors and pivots. The process had to 
be completed in a few rubs on flat work, otherwise it became 
rounded, or fox brown color was made by the burnisher on the 
steel. Agate is now largely used in watch factories for polishing 
steel without any material between. We would not have thought 
it possible, for finishing brass settings to jewels and acting points 
of American scape wheels. 

Two plates of glass rubbed together with fine emery will make 
very good burnishing glasses for brass settings, or scape wheels, 
and holding the setting on a cork or finger tip with tissue paper, 
and applying the steel burnisher after the glass is used a brighter 
polish will be given, but the tendency of the steel is to make the 
brass rounding so only one or two rubs should be given. If 
these fail the glass must be again used; Agate or ruby polishers 
will do this work still better, but their high cost prevents experi- 
ments, and the repairer, however, careful, never seems to produce 
that finish given by the new worker unless he receives direct in- 
struction from a finisher. 

The watch cleaner seldom knows how to make or keep steel 
and brass parts sufficiently clean, so as to polishr them properly. 
The operations, however, are simplicity itself. The bread box 
which all finishers use is quite unknown to repairers; a piece 
of bread, one day old, is always kept ready, and a piece as big 
as a thumb nail, kneaded with a little oil. It need not be watch 
oil, as dirty bread will still clean well. It keeps the dirt to it- 
self and extracts it from all things it comes in contact with. All 
small steel pieces should be imbeded in it, rounded into a ball, 
then broken open, and the piece taken out with the tweezers. 
It should be handled with clean tissue paper or quite new wash 
leather. The watch finishers' board, however, appears dirty 
and muddled by the various processes of polishing and stoning 
the brass with water a)rr stone and with the blue stone, which 
he also uses. The various stones rough and smooth, about 6 
inches long by }4 an inch broad, are applied with water to the 
brass plates and pieces held on a cork in a vice, a basin of water 
being set underneath. The file marks are taken out, much the 
same way as they were put in, both plate and stone being fre- 
quently watched and washed to see no marks are left; marks that 
seem tmdiscemable in the grey brass, assume a prominence when 
gilt that astonish the tyro. Perfect flatness is aimed at and can- 
not be discovered in the ungilt brass. It is only by carrying the 
hand from center to circumference with the end of the smooth- 
est stone ground to a chisel shape, with a series of circular move- 
ments all over the plate, that the latter will appear flat when gilt. 
Charcoal is sometimes used to give the last finishing touches, 
and sometimes a steel polisher and oil stone dust is used to finish 
small pieces to give them as it were an extra flatness. These are 
the usual means employed in both factory and hand works. 



£<m»uumiuuuuMUt»w»mK>i»ticrj(iut 



AN OLD TIME ORDER 

In the "Sixth Report of the Historical Manuscripts Commis- 
sion" mention is made of an agreement, dated 1599, between one 
Michael Neuwers, a clockmaker, and Gilbert, Earl of Shrews- 
bury, for the construction of a clock. "It is agreed that Michael 
should make a striking clock about the bigness of that which 
he made for the Earl six years past; it is to be made by the last 
c f December next. The cover or case of it to be of brass, very 
well gilt, with open breaking through all over, with a small 
fine hand like an arrow, cleanly and strongly made, the cover 
or white dialplate to be made of French crown gold, and the 
figures to show the hour, and the rest to be enamelled the 
fynelyest and daintyest that can be, but no other colour than 
blue, white, and carnation, the letters to be somewhat larger 
than ordinary: the price of the clock must be £15, which makes 
with the earnest already given ii6, but the circle I must pay 
for, besides the gold which shall make it; the sides of the brass 
case must not be sharp, but round, and the case very curiously 
made." That the same Earl of Shrewsbury was somewhat of 
a connoisseur of timekeepers, as well as an authority on horo- 
logical matters, is borne out by the following letter, dated 161 1, 
from him to Sir Michael Hickes, which is preserved in the 
Lansdowne MSS. rt the British Museum: "I perceived by you 
to-day that you understood My Lord Treasurer's desig^n was 
to have a watch, but I conceaved he wysshed a stryknge clock 
made lyke a watch, to stande oppon a cubbart, & suche one 



if 




NEW GRADES 
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THE 

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AND 

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¥¥ 

Write for Prices to the 

f^mWrn OlatCb Co., canister, P«. 



•^nmk^tsi 



Digitizec 



546 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 26, 1899. 



IDictotia Ibotel 

iviichigan Avenue & VanBnren Street, Chicago 




(though no new one, & yet under a dozen years ould) I have 
found oute, & send you by this bearer which I pray you delcver 
to his Lordship from me, and tell him that I am very well per- 
swaded of the truth of it, or else I should be ashamed to send 
him so gross & rude a piece as this is, & if I hadd thought hii 
Lordship could have well forborne it but for four or five days 
longer, I would have bestowed a new case for it, for this is a 
very bad one. If his Lordship would not have it stryke, either 
in the dayes or nights, the striker may be forborne to be wounde 
up, and so the watch being wounde up it will go alone. It will 
goe twenty-six houres, but I wysh it may be wounde up every 
mornyng or nyght at the same tyme." 



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Makers of FINE CASES and TRAYS 
FOR JEWELERS and SILVERSMlTHa 




A NEW BOW FASTENING. 

A German watchmaker has succeeded in making a bow fasten- 
ing which may be relied upon. The so-called "ears" of the bow 
knob are made solid, as may be per- 
ceived in the slightly enlarged illustra- 
trion. Into each of these ears is insert- 
ed a screw whose projecting head ob- 
tains the form of a long smooth pin, 
upon which the bow ring can move. 
The ends of the ring are made of 
smooth bore for this purpose (without 
windings). The side surfaces, upon 
which he ends of the bow ring rest, 
are kept entrely smooth. The ring 
holds itself upon the bow knob prin- 
cipally by reason of its own power of 
tension (which in soHd bows is known to be considerable), 
whereas, the two pins supply the axle upon which the bow ring 
revolves. Since the pins are very long it may be seen that the 
bow is very well secured against loss. 




AN ELECTRIC CLOCK DIAL 

A Chicago inventor has recently patented an electrically illu- 
minated clock. It seems practical, and is not very expensive to 
make. It is specially adapted for clock towers, and the idea is 
to illuminate the figures on the dial in turn, this end" being ob- 
tained by the mechanism of the timepiece. Upon the hour hand 
is arranged a brush which travels in contact with a ring and seg- 
mental contact pieces, for the purpose of completing the circuit 
between the ring and each of the contact pieces in turn. By 
this arrangement the contact piece will be in circuit with the 
brush during one hour, or until the brush passes to the next 
contact piece, the actual lighting being affected by means of 
twelve electric lights, one behind each character. So soon as 
the hour hand passes the point midway between the two char- 
acters, the brush snaps down upon the next contact piece and 
throws the next lamp into circuit. The minute hand carries an 
electric light on the end of it, and the contact continues, so that 
the minute hand always indicates the exact minute by a single 
lamp, which is lighted continuously, whereas the hour hand uses 
twelve lamps in succession each twelve hours. 



AMERICAN HOROLOGICAL SOCIETY 

Only a few members attended the regular monthly meeting of 
the society last Thursday night in the assembly room of the Chi- 
cago Jewelers' Association. Some discussion took place con- 
cerning the proposed horological exhibition next fall. An ap- 
parent lack of enthusiasm on the part of some of the possible 
exhibitors has had a tendency to cast cold water on the scheme 
for the moment. It is argued by the doubtful ones that the ex- 
pense will be altogether too great for the resources of the so- 
ciety; if they argue the last exhibition, for which everything was 
contributed, cost upward of $90, the proposed more elaborate 
exhibition will cail for a big outlay. 

The following new members were admitted: 
J. H. Dcnkhoflf. Dyersville. la.; S. G. Lewis, New Smyrna, Fla.; Wm. 
Creasy, Crane, Ind.: J. VV. Atchlev, Pin Hook Landing, Tcnn.; W. M. 
Johnson, Centralia, 111.; Wm. T. Murphy, Whitnevville, Conn.; Kandolp}i 
S. VVhittington, Imogene, la.; Alfred Rissen, Mt. Olive, J" 



111. 



A watch which is believed to have been the property of 
Stephen Hopkins, a Rhode Island signer of the Declaration of 
Independence, has been presented to the Rhode Island Histor- 
ical Society by David F. Harris, of Adams. N. Y. The donor 
heard of the watch in 1887 in Vermont. It was then in the pos- 
session of a man 90 years old, and has always been known as 
the "Stephen Hopkins watch." He had never carried it and 
thought it had not been wound in fifty years. The. old man has 
since died. Engraved o?i i\\o movemenU of tho watch is "N. 
'^ 'ni ' -*•■--.•. 1 v; 'don. 5,.<.; 



Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



April 26, 1899. 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



547 



THE EZRA F. BOWMAN TECHNICAL SCHOOL 

Inoorporatins the American Horologlcal Institute. 

u;oi?oS^.^i.!S'o?! Watchmaking and Engraving 

Our students are enabled to GET and HOLD positions. If you want to increase your money-earninfi^ 
capacity, write for terms and information. EZRA F. BOWMAN, Manager, Lancaster, Pa. 



no doubt you know what you do not want, 

but perhaps you may not know what you do want. 

I have had experience, 

am said to have ability — ^and 

am at your service — for a reasonable consideration. 

J. W. SCHWARTZ, 

all sorts of RooiTi 905, Tcmpic Court, 

commercial literature. NEW YORK. 



Im L<atber Goods ^:^^^^,^. 



ARTISTIC GOLD AND SI.VER MOUNTINGS, RARE SKINS, NEW FINISHES AND COLORS. 



Brerythinir in Pocketbooks, 
Card Cases, Toilet Cases Dress- 
ing Rolls, Bags, Belts, Etc., Etc. 



LOUIS W. HRABA 

nanufacturer. 

29 East 19th St., NEW YORK. 
Establlsliea (879. 



Cbe Ipbilabelpbia Commetclal flDuseum, 

Z)r« TPQlfllfam p« TPaildOtit Birectott 



Supplies DETAIIiED, SFECIPIO INFORMATION oonoeming the 
TBADE CONDITIONS of the WORLD'S MARKETS. 



It tells WHERE THE MAREE*rS ARE 
and by whom supplied. 

Who the RESPONSIBLE BUYERS ARE, 
and HOW TO REACH THEM. 



It can ascertain FOR YOU the partioular REQUIREMENTS of any cat all 
markets in THE LINE OF QOODS YOU MAKE. 



It has inaugurated a most valuable method of REQISTERING AMERICAN 
MANUFACTURERS in Foreign Countries by means of 



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PLACED IN THE CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE IN FOR^CY-FIVE OF 
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JEWELERS. 

Cushman Buildings 
} Maiden Lane 



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Rents Reasonable Jl Jl Jt Jt 
Apply 

G. R WILCOXSON, 

f72 Ninth Avenue* or on Premises* 




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This is a movement in the Interest of American Commerce with which | 
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233 0rotb yourtb Stccet* pbiU^cipbiat P«« 



Trade Marks 
Designs 
CorvRiGHTS Sin, 
Anyone sending a sketch and description may 
qnickly ascertain our opinion free whether aa 
Invention is probably patentable. Communica- 
tions strictly confidential. Handbook on Patents 
sent free. Oldest agency for securing patents. 

Patents taken throujrh Munn & Co. receive 
fpedaX notice^ without c harg e. In the 

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; four months, fL Sold by all newsdealers. 

4Co.»8"»«»*»'NewYgrk 

Office, 625 F St., Washington, D. G. T 

Digitized by VnOOQ iC 



Branch 



548 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



April 26, 1899. 



I CHA5. R WOOD & CO., DIAMONDS 



IMPORTERS AND CUTTERS 



1 MAIDEN LANE, NEW YORK 



HENRY 0. CLEWER, 

Polisber and Capper 
of fine Jewelry. 

METAL LAPPING IN ALL ITS VARIED 
STYLES. 

FACETING A SPECIALTY. 

Satin and English Finish, Etruscan and Roman 

Color, Bright Plating and Silvering, 

Oxidizing, etc. All Work 

Guaranteed. 

80 NASSAU ST., NEW YORK. 

PftrtralK Copied on ttPatcbgi. 

$1.25 

We pay Return 
Express 
Charges. 




We have made price consistent with A-No. i 
work as low as possible. We allow nothing but 
first-class portraits to leave our place. Our work 
IS guaranteed not to Fade or Peel Olf . 

TRY US, YOU WILL BB SATiSPiBD. 

WILLUM umm, n Maiden Lane, II. Y, 
SEAMLESS WIRE 

IN ALL SIZES AND QUALITIES 

Manufactured by 

EDWARD N. COOK. 

Gold and Silver Rolled Plate. * Aluminum Solder.'' 

144 PINE STREET, PROVIDENCE, R. I. 



PATENTS 



Qnickly secured. 0T7% FEB DUX WHEN PATBMT 
OBTAINED. Send model, sketch or photo, with 
description for free report as to patentabilitj. 48-PAOX 
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OFFEH. Itis the most l iberal proposition ever made by 
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PATENT LA4/YER8. 

UDrMtMdg., WASHINGTON, D. C, 



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JEWELERS' TOOL DEPOT, 

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G.G.MALLIET&GO. 

Diamond Cutlers 



14 Maiden Lane 



NEW YORK 



London, 
50 Holbom Viaduct. 



Amstcfdam, 
2 Tulpstraat. 



LEON HIRSCH 

Importer of Watches 



No. 45 Maiden Lane 



New York 



HAVE REMOVED 



TO THE 



LORSCH BUILDING 

37 and 39 MAIDEN LANE 
First Floor 



Factory 

CHAUX-DE-FONDS (SWITZERLAND) 

Rue Daniel Jean Richard 9. 



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been done; at any rate we'll guarantee prompt 
returns and fair treatment. 

JOHN WATERS^ SON 

Gold and Silver Refiner 
Assayer and Sweep Smelter 

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Silver a Specialty /f /f /f /^ 



il DUTCH ST., NEW YORK- 



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4id 



The only guard that 
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element, and may be dis- 
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speedilv with no other 
tools than the hand. 



SPENCER OPTICAL MFO. 
IS Maiden Lane 



CO. 



to 159 Pine Street, Providence, R. I. Opposhe the old msmber isa. 

Larger Facilities for Doing Fine Enameling. 

^^Irx X^adios' and Oonts^ 

The TIQER BRAND is the Dealers' Chain Because It Sells. 
T!)i TIQER BRAND is the Buyers' Chain Because It Wears. 

THE SUMNER=QRIMES CO. 




204 5UPliRIOR ST., 



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OppeDkeiinsp Bros, k W^r::^^2^l 



Importers 



NASSAU & JOHN (Piescott Buildtag), NEW YORK. 2 Tv.i V St., Arasterdam. 



L.LELONC 6 BROTHER, c 



45 Holborn Viadtict^ London 



Iborn^ 



oogle 




Volume XXXII 



NEW YORK, MAY 3, 1899. 



No. 18. 



CHARLES H. HULBURD 

Charles H. Hulburd is the 
third president of the Elgin 
National Watch Company. 
On December 20 last, upon 
the resignation tj^f President 
Thomas M. Avery, who had 
held continuous office for 
thirty-one phenomenally suc- 
cessful years, Mr. Hulburd 
was elected, by unanimous 
vote of the Board of Direc- 
tors, to fill his place. As a 
stockholder in the company 
for twenty years and as a 
member of the Directory 
Board for the past six or 
seven, he has been, though 
engaged principally in other 
business, intimately acquaint- 
ed with the affairs of the big 
industry. His interest in the 
company came originally 
through a family connection 
with the Culvers, who were 
large stockholders, and it 
was upon the death of 
George N. Culver, several 
years ago, that he was elect- 
ed a director. Since his 
election to the presidency, 
Mr. Hulburd has arranged 
his other interests so that 
most of his time may be 
spent in the oversight of the 
multifarious concerns of the 
great watch business. 

Born in the little village of 
Stockholm, St. Lawrence 
County, in the extreme 
northern part of New York 




CHARLES H. HULBURD 

PBKSIDENT OP THE BLQIN NATIONAL WATCH COMPA.NY. 



State, on May 28, forty-nine 
years ago, he had the benefit 
of a good common school 
education and in time went 
to Berlin college. Gradu- 
ated from there, he entered 
the law department of the 
University of New York 
City, and in 1874 was admit- 
ted to the bar in that State. 
He soon came to Chicago, 
however, to practice. 
Though successful here as a 
lawyer, business life appealed 
to him, and after two years' 
practice he went into part- 
nership with his uncles un- 
der the firm name of Culver 
& Co. As grain commission 
merchants and members of 
the Chicago Board of Trade, 
the firm did a successful bus- 
iness, until the autumn of 
1888, when it was disbanded, 
and, in search of better 
health, its various members 
went abroad for an extended 
European outing. Business 
of his own and of his com- 
panions, necessitated several 
returns on Mr. Hulburd's 
part to this country, and in 
1893, his health regained, he 
came back to stay, and or- 
g a n i z e d the commission 
house of Hulburd, Warren & 
Co.. with offices in the Board 
of Trade building. The suc- 
cessful affairs of this con- 
cern, of which he is the treas- 
urer, engaged most of his 



(^ (^ (^ 



DIAMONDS 



Wm. S. Hedges & Co. 

Importers ... 

Diamonds and Precious Stones 
1 70 Broadway, New York 

27 Holborn Viaduct, London. 



^ ^ (E. 



Diamond Jewelry 



Mount & Woodhull 



Importers of.. 



FORMERLY WITH LATE FIRM OF 

RANDEL, BAREMORE & BILLINGS, 



DIAMONDS-^i^ 

Other Precious Stones, Pearls, Etc. 

Makers of Fine Diamond Jewelry 

26 MAIDEN LANE 
(Southwest corner Nassau Street) 

NEW YORK 



FOR TABLE OF CONTENTS AND INDEX TO ADVERTISERS SEE PAGE 570 Digitized bv C^nOOQi^^ 



550 



THE JEWLLERS REVIEW 



May 3. 1899 



ESTABLISHED 1840. 



Qiester Billings & Son 



to RANDEL, BAREMORE & BILUNGS 

IMPORTERS OF 

DIAMONDS 



1840 RANDEL Jk BAREMORE. 
1800 RANDEL, BAREMORE 4 CO. 
1880 RANDEL. BAREMORE 4 BILLINGS, 



Otbor Prooloiio Stoaoo BRd Potrlo 



58 NMais Stfed. DIAMOND J^ 

29 Maiden Une, 22 Holborii Viaduct 
jfSMf YORK. uomoom, s.o. 



J^ JEWELRY 



J. B. BOWDEN. 



M. L. BOWDEN 



J. B. BOWDEN & CO. 

Makers of FINGER RINGS 

OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. 
1 NlAIDfiiN LANE, 

NEW YORK. 



Cor. BROADWAY, 



energies up to the time when he undertook the presidency of 
the Elgin National Watch Company. This connection with that 
of Hulburd, Warren & Co., he still retains, as well as the office 
of vice-president of the Equitable Trust Company of Chicago, 
to which he was elected some years ago. He has also recently 
been chosen a director of the Corn Exchange National Bank. 

Personally, Mr. Hulburd is a representative of the best type 
of the progressive citizen of a progressive city. Of the down- 
town clubs he is a member of the Chicago and Union League; 
he is a member also of the Chicago Literary Club. Besides 
these social and intellectual sides of his busy life, another, which 
he holds very important, is that evidenced by his interest and 
work in various philanthropic schemes; he is a director of the 
"Chicago Commons" — ^an institution established in one of the 
poorer quarters for the advancement of the people there, and he 
is, besides, a director of several other benevolent associations. 
Mr. Hulburd's deep interest in the masses augurs well for the 
2,400 hands who find employment in the myriad channels of the 
watch company. Doubtless, when he has had time to investi- 
gate the existing conditions at Elgin, and to put into practice 
his theories for bettering of t!'e status of the laboring man, a 
relation between employer and employed will result that will 
add materially to the welfare of both. 

Fully realizing the honor and the responsibility of the posi- 
tion to which he was elected, and appreciating the high standard 
set by the administration of his predecessor, Mr. Hulburd has, 
since his -lection, devoted himself assiduously to mastering the 
detail of the business, dividing his time between his 
pleasant office at 76 Monroe street, and the factory at Elgin 
with its 2,400 hands. No one watching him can doubt for a min- 
tite the success of his incumbency, or fear that he will fail to 
direct his company's aflfairs loward a larger and greater future. 
Combining the busy man of affairs and the man of higher edu- 
cation and culture, he is well fitted to hold the high position of 
chief executive of one of the leading industries of the country. 



Alice Moore Earle, in her book on "Home Life in Colonial 
Days," states that the first fork brought to America was for Gov- 
ernor John Winthrop in 1633. It wa.^ in a leather case with a 
knife and a bodkin. If the Governor ?*e with the fork he was 
doubtless the only person in the colony who did so. Thirty or 
forty years later a few two-tined iron and silver forks were 
brought across the ocean and were used in New York. Vir- 
ginia and Massachusetts. By the end of the century they had 
come into use at the tables of persons of wealth and fashion. 



SOENriFIC AND INDUSTRIAL 

Our object under this head is not to deal with Scientiflc matters in an ab- 
stract or theoretical way, but to giye such particulars of Bdentiilc facts as auqr 
be capable of adaptation to practical industrial uses. We shall point o«t, too, 
new doTelopments and improyements in Scientific matters which win be naefol 
to the craftsman and manufacturer, while the Industrial side of this department 
will include notices of new tools, machinery and appliances. At an ttnee we 
shall welcome communications from our readers who may have susgestioBS to 
offer on this head. 



ALUMINUM ALLOYS 

In our issue of October 23d we gave some particulars as to the 
best methods of introducing aluminum as an alloy and stated 
the advantages it possesses for many purposes. 

If it is properly introduced there is no reason why any 
of it should be oxidized, and a most perfect surface can 
be obtained, and the finish on such a metal is of a 
higher quality than can otherwise be secured. It is to be 
noted, however, that it is not desirable to use aluminium in brass 
which is to be dipped, for the reason that the introduction of 
aluminium gives the brass an acid-resisting quality, and no mat- 
ter how small a percentage of aluminium is used in brass, if 
it is intended for dipping purposes, the effect of it will be quite 
apparent, and it is impossible to obtain such a finish as if no 
aluminium were used. But this very quality makes the presence 
and use of aluminium in brass particularly advantageous and 
desirable for any place where the brass must be used to with- 
stand corrosive action, either from acids, water or salt air. 

In making brass castings, owing to the additional fluidity 
mentioned above, it is possible to increase the number of pat- 
terns on the gate, where a lot of small castings are being made 
from one-third to one-half over what can be cast if no aluminium 
is present. This is one of the principal advantages and uses for 
aluminium in brass castings, where the aluminium is only used 
in very small quantities. The presence of aluminium in cither 
brass or bronze tends also to change its color slightly. The 
larger the percentage of aluminium that is used, the lighter the 
finished article will appear. 

In the case of aluminium bronze^ 95^ per cent copper and 454 
per cent, of aluminium will give a color which is almost impos- 
sible to detect from 14 carat gold. It is to be noted, however, 
that the addition of very much aluminium will materially in- 
crease shrinkage, and this should be provided for in casting 
work by using larger gates and higher risers. 

In very small articles, the addition of aluminium has been 
found to be particularly desirable; for, owing to the very close 
c.ompetition, the manufacturers of this class of goods have been 
obliged to use a poor grade and cheap quality of brass, and by 
the addition of a small amount of aluminium they are not only 
able to get a casting which is stronger and superior in quality, 
as far as actual strength is concerned, but they are enabled to 
cast more pieces from a single gate or flask, and consequently 
considerable time is saved in making up the moulds for such 
articles, and the saving thus accomplished forms a large item in 
the competition which is to be met, owing to the reduced foundry 
cost of the article manufactured by the use of aluminium. 

It is to be noted in both the alloys of copper, zinc and 
aluminium, and also copper and aluminium, that the use of too 
much aluminium will give a very brittle metal. On the copper 
end of the series the dividing line between the strong and the 
brittle alloys seems to be exactly at the point where a very de- 
cided change in color takes place; that is, where the metal 
changes from the yellow color of gold to the white color of silver, 
and this change takes place in a mixture containing between 80 
and 85 per cent, of copper. Alloys which contain more aluminium 
than this, as, for instance, 25 or 30 per cent., become so brittle 
that they will break if they are dropped on a stone or iron floor, 
and the machining also becomes very difficult, as the metal chips 
and does not turn smoothly. In some special cases these higher 
alloys can be used — if no strength under a blow is required. 
They have a very hard surface and take an excellent finish. 

It is also to be noted that with the use of very much aluminium, 
that is, for percentages from i to 2 per cent, in either brass or 
aluminium bronze, the strength increases to a very noticeable 
extent on the second and third melting. This is accounted for 
by the fact that a more perfect alloy is formed between the 
metals and the aluminium on each successive melting. Taking, 
for example, ordinary castings of 90 per cent, copper and 5 per 
cent, tin and 5 per cent, aluminium, on the first melting these 
are of about 41,000 pounds per square inch, ultimate tensile 
strength. These castings on the second melting are of nearly 
43,000 pounds tensile strength. 

Mixtures of 10 per cent, copper and 10 per cent, tin usually 
give only from 33.000 to 34,000 pounds as their ultimate tensile 
strength; and when these proportions are increased to 20 per 
cent, of each metal the tensile streng^th is only about 2,000 
pounds, and the metal is found to be extremely brittle. The 
maximum strength of the copper, tin alloys is also about the 
point of the maximum tensile. streng^M of >e2u:ir^|t«tar present 



ensile strengtl of 4e2u:irvwtal 

Digitized by V^CJVJv 



May 3. i8g9 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



551 




lEntered at the Post Office in the City of New York as second-class matter.] 



THOMAS JACOB, Editor and Publisher. 



Address all Communications to The Jewelers Review, 
170 AND X73 Broadway, Cor. Maiden Lane, New York. 



In a careful scrutiny of the news which we, 
New as a representative organ of the trade, re- 

Business ceive from all parts of the country, The 

Ventures Review has been very much struck lately 

with the large increase in the number of new 
business announcements which are almost daily being estab- 
lished in all parts. This, while it may certainly be looked upon 
as a sign of present prosperity, has yet greater significance in 
its promise of increased trade in the future. All these new stores 
point to new business and more work for the manufacturers 
who, with the perversity of human nature, are already beginning 
to complain that they are overdone with orders. These com- 
plaints, however, must only be taken humorously. Doubtless it 
means hard work and overtime, but nevertheless these mean 
prosperity to the manufacturer, a welcome change from the ad- 
versity which has of late been the experience of most. 



Vol. XXXII 



MAY 3, 1899. 



No. 18 



NOTICE 

In answer to the many letters tecdvtd at this offlcet and to save tm- 
neccssary correspondence and delay* we wish to state that this paper 
his no conoection whaiever with J. J* Fogerty or wHh Fojrrty's 
Jewelers Directrry 



The Jewelers Rev ew is issued regularly every week and will put forth 
every effort to furnish the best and latest news and information concerning 
jewelers, gold and silversmiths, horologists, opticians and allied industHes. 
Persons interested in these trades will confer a great favor by sending tis 
the news of their localities and their views respecting the manufacture or 
treatment of any articles in the above lines. It is absolutely necessary 
that the name and address of the writer should accompany each commtmi- 
cation, not necessarily for publication but as a gtiarantee of good faith. 

Correspondents asking quf*stions requiring answers throusrh the col- 
umns of the Jewelers Review will state the information desired plainly 
and in as few words as possible. All answers will ^e published as promptly 
a« the nature of the enquiry and the pressure of business will permit Read, 
em need have no hesitancv in asking questions on any subject in which they 
are interested consistent with the nature of this publication. 



SUBSCRIPTION RATES 

Two Dollars per annum in advance. One Dollar for six months, postage 
prepaid to any point in the United States, Mexico or Canada. Single 
copies ten cents each. 

PtoreigB 5ubscri|>tfcm4 —To countries within the postal union, postage pre- 
paid Three Dollars and Fifty Cents per annum in advance. 

Subscribers chansring their address should state the old one as well as the 
new to insure p'oper delivery of the paper. 



THE JEWELERS REVIEV ABROAD 

Copies of this paper can be found in Europe at Holborn Viaduct and the 
Royal Hotels, London. Herald office and hotels L'Athenee and Grand 
Terminus, Paris The Amstel Hute), Amsterdam, St. Antoi-e and the 
Continental Hotels, Antwerp. 



ADVERTISING RATES 

will be furnished on application. Under the new management 
the circulation of The Jewelers Review has steadily increased 
until it practically covers the entire jewelry and allied trades. 
Advertisers will find that there is no better medium to reach the 
trade than The Jewelers Review. 

Advertisements to insure insertion in the next issue should 
reach this office not later than Saturday. 



COMMUNICATIONS SOUCITBD 

Space will always be reserved in the Jewelers Review for news items of 
interest to the trade, such as changes in place of business, co-partnerships, 
dissolutions and the movements of traveling representatives and buyers. 

Jewelers contemplating a trip to New York can have their mail ad- 
dressed to this ofiace, where it will be held until called for, or forwarded 
to anv other addremi if desired 



We notice that the announcement that the 
A notorious Electrolytic Marine Salts Company 

Notable are about to declare a dividend concludes 

Achievement with the words that "no expert report has 
been received as yet as to the feasibility of 
making gold from sea water at the North Lubec plant." That 
gold from sea water, in minute quantities, is a possibility, may 
be granted, but we should think the shareholders of the above 
named concern, having achieved the far more difficult, and ap- 
parently impossible, task of recovering gold, or its equivalent, 
from the Rev. P. F. Jernegan, will rest on their laurels and be 
content to leave experiments with sea water to scientific men, 
at any rate so far as such experiments relate to the acquisition 
of precious metals. 

The case of William F. Doll, of the W. F. 

Another Step Doll Manufacturing Company, watch case 

in the manufacturers, 9-11-13 Maiden Lane, who was 

Doll Cycle Case arrested last year for riding a bicycle on the 
Harlem Speedway, finally came up for trial 
last week and resulted in a partial victory for Mr. Doll. It is a 
decision, however, which pleases neither party. 

After being once arrested Mr. Doll looked up the law in the 
matter and finding himself well within his rights, appeared again 
with his wheel on the Speedway. He was once more arrested. 
This time he was arraigned before Magistrate Wentworth, who 
contended that a bicycle was not a vehicle and fined Mr. Doll 
$5.00, which he paid under protest. An injunction to restrain 
the Park Commissioners from enforcing this ordinance prohibit- 
ing the riding of bicycles upon the Speedway was later on de- 
nied by Justice McLean. In refusing to grant the injunction the 
judge declined to enter into the merits of the case. Judge Gil- 
dersleeve in the recent trial gave it as his opinion that bicycles 
tended to the injury of the roadway. 

Mr. Doll claims that the act of 1887 covers the case and 
grants him the privilege he seeks and that it cannot be overrid- 
den by any mere order of the Park Commissioners. But he also 
takes the broader view that no citizen can be barred from privi- 
leges for which he is taxed. 



AVERAGE 

WEEKLY CIRCULATION 

For February, March and April was : 



10,041 COPIES. 



Our post office aod other receipts are open to the inspection of 
thoie w1k> desire to verify this statement 

D i g i t i nod by ' 






552 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



May 3. :8q9 



-\\V.V.VV \ N V 




\ S VAv^^NV-VNVvVNVNVV'V V X VSWX VxV-X.VVWWN V VN %-VV.V^^.\VXNV^V^V^V^VvV.V^V^^^v 



OUR MOTTO— 

* Honest Goods and Honest Deaiings." 



ROSENBAUM & ADLER 
^ iMPo»TE..or Diamonds 



F ACTOR v: 

I MEWARK, N. J. 



AND MAHUFACTURtR6 OF 

DIAMOND JEWELRY 
& MOUNTINGS. 



6s Nassau St., N. Y. 




^ NOVET.TIES A SPECIALTY. 



ZELLER, WOLF & BRO., 

Manufacturers and Importers of 

Fine Telvet, PInsli and Morocco Cases 

FOR JEWaRY AND SILVERWARE, 

Trays of Every Description for Travelers' Cases, Show Cases and Windows. 
75 and 77 NASSAU STREET, 

Paper Boxes, Leather Novelties. Card Cases, mcvlt vnoi^ 

Pen and Pin Pads. Sample Cards, Etc. rNCW YUKK. 



Edwin Passmore 

« Capidary « 

JlMericaM flew < specialty 

A FINE ASSORTMENT IN STCXX 



Room 76, Jewelers' Boildinsf, Boiton 



Thomas H. Worrkix. 



Jin IH« €oo4$ 



RoBSBT A. Fahxt. 



WORRELL ft FAHEY 

DiiUMtdt aM oflttr Precioitt $fOMt$ 

Watches and Fine Jewelry 
9, U & 13 Maiden Lane, New York 

EVERHHING ZSSt. '!S&."'T: 



Medals, Buttons. 



POR- 




Colleje, Seminary, 
School, Fraternity, 
Society, Club, 

from any required design carefully 
executed. 

E. R. STOCKWELL. 180 B'fay, Few York. 




ALOIS KOHN & CO. 

maMMTacimn Of Solid Qold €bain$ I 

LORQN£TTE8 AND QUAR08 A SPECIALTY. \ 

4 MAIDEN LANE, NEW YORK. I 



CERAMICS 

Under this head special attention will be given to pottery, hric-a-brac and 
porcelain, which now form an important part of the jeweler's trade. Fine 
products of the potter's art have always been prized by the select few bnt 
recently the popular taste has caased a demand for these goods which has 
encoaraged artists of recognized ability in their production, as new wares ar» 
constantly appearing, especially in foreign countries. 



AMERICAN ART POTTERY NOT APPRECIATED 

Mrs. Horace C. Wait, the clever water color artist, a member 
of Sorosis and a woman who has talcen a great interest in pottery 
work for the last few years, in a talk to the members of the New 
York Society of Keramic Arts last week, said: 

"We Americans are snobbish about our purchases. 

"We won't buy things that are American, because they are 
American, though they may be more meritorious than similar 
things that come from abroad. I have been interested in old 
china; and through it I have come to take a great interest in 
modern work and the people who are doing it. But they will 
never succeed in America in giving us good pottery, at reason- 
able prices, until people become interested and buy it. 

"I have had a practical illustration of the snobbery which re- 
fuses to buy home products given me by a man who has done 
some beautiful art work in pottery. He was in France studying 
when he made his first contributions to America's stores, and 
everything he sent over sold well. It sold so well that when he 
came back here to start a pottery he had no idea that he would 
not be entirely successful. But the moment that his work was 
done on American soil, although its character was unchanged, he 
found there was no demand for it. People would not buy it 
because it was American. 

"I find that people do not know anything about what is done 
in America. I tell a woman who is interested in china of work 
that is being done within a stone's throw of her own home, but 
she has never heard of it. I am. taking pains now, when I have 
occasion to send presents abroad, to send as far possible Ameri- 
can work. It is particularly appreciated there, for we are not en- 
tirely alone in a liking for work that comes from another coun- 
try, though in the countries abroad they support their home 
work. 

"Women have had much to do with the production of the 
good pottery we have in America, and they must create the de- 
mand which will make its manufacture a possibility. I went into 
a big department store in New York the other day and asked for 
American pottery. They showed me a number of things in sim- 
ple household articles, but when I asked for something in art 
tery they acknowledged that they had not a piece in the estab- 
lishment. That was a representative store. We are getting a 
deluge of cheap French and German pottery. The Rookwood 
pottery grew out of woman's art club work in Cincinnati. It is 
original work and only artists are employed and the results are 
beautiful. They are now branching out and doing something in 
imitation of the Royal Copenhagen or Iris ware in soft paste 
with great success, but they do not believe generally in imitation. 
It has been the mistake of American potters that they have imi- 
tated and not originated. The Rookwood ware pottery is beauti- 
ful, and it would be thought that it might compete with any- 
thing, but you would find if you should go into a shop where it 
is sold that they excluded all other American pottery to con- 
centrate their efforts upon the Rookwood. There is a pottery 
in Janesville, Ohio, where they are doing work along the lines 
of the Rookwood and have had excellent success. 

"Mrs. Pauline Jacobus, of Edgerton, Wis., started a pottery 
some time in the eighties and brought out some beautiful art 
ware and some household utensils as pot boilers. She used the 
Wisconsin cream-colored clay, which produced beautifni 
tones. She did some beautiful nnderglaze work. But it 
was too much of an art work to be a financial suc- 
cess, and was given up. Now a lawyer has undertaken to con- 
tinue it, as an artist would, for the beauty of the results, and 
not as a money-making scheme, and with success. Miss Mcars, 
the clever woman artist, has made some designs for him. They 
have done some things that might be called terra cotta work, and 
some beautiful designs in bas relief. 

"Volkmar, who started a pottery on Long Island, strives for 
color and form, but it is difficult for him to make people under- 
stand that some decoration is not needed. His work is exhibited 
as an art work in one of the art stores in New York, where beau- 
tiful things in other lines of art are to be found from time to 
time. The Grueby ware of Boston is beautiful: there are some 
wonderful greens to be found in it , Th*i thpe is^ait Inejcpen- 



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May 3, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



553 



sive ware made in New Milford, Conn., by a man who is trying 
for good and original effects, and his pottery is sold in one of the 
New York shops at very reasonable prices. 

"In doing work, the best materials should be used, and I 
would not advise using poor paste for decorating because it is 
American. The best paste comes from England and good deco- 
rative work cannot be done on poor paste any more than a good 
gown be made from poor silk. I have some English china with 
a simple border and a monogram in the center that is a con- 
tinual delight to me, because of the warm ivory tint of the white. 
It is beautiful. I have some Copeland and Cauldon ware that is 
so hard that it cannot be nicked, though it goes into the oven. 
But I want people to become interested in the American pot- 
teries. 

"As for the old blue ware in this country and in England, I 
have found that there is not much of it here, but that a great deal 
of it is still in existence in the out-of-the-way places in England, 
though that has been denied. 

(To be continued.) 



BELLEEK MANUFACTURE IN AMERICA 

{Continued ) 

The decoration of pottery and porcelain is an art of infinite 
restrictions and uncertainties, but of never-failing fascination. 
The many styles of embellishment may be divided into two great 
classes, based on the manner of application — overglaze and un- 
derglaze. 

Underglaze decoration, properly speaking, is painted on either 
the "green" ware or biscuit, after which the piece is glazed and 
subjected to the glost fire. Comparatively few colors will bear 
this "hard fire," the principal ones, sufficiently strong, being 
blue, brown, green and yellow. A style of monochrome paint- 
ing, which, properly executed, gives most beautiful results, is 
miscalled "underglaze," because the "hard fire" colors are used. 
No accurate name has been invented, although "over-under- 
glaze" and "interglaze" are fairly descriptive. The color, finely 
ground and lawned is mixed with various oils and spirits and 
applied to the glazed surface of the ware, exactly as a wash-draw- 
ing would be made. The piece is dried in the kiln for enamel 
colors, and sent a second time into the glost fire, where the color 



penetrates the glaze, becoming part of it. The danger of loss 
in this process is not only the same as for the glazed ware, but 
presents an additional uncertainty; a "short fire" leaves the color 
raw and cold, while a degree of heat greater than that of the first 
glost fire causes the glaze to flow, and as the color cannot pene- 
trate the vitreous body, it moves with the glaze. Thus, an elab- 
orate decoration often "runs" beyond recognition, and the whole 
piece is lost. Few pieces painted in this manner are completely 
satisfactory in one firing, so that every finished article has gen- 
erally passed through four "hard fires" and two enamel fires — 
six times through the kiln in all, often many more. The results, 
however, justify the labor, as the decoration, apart from its 
artistic possibilities, becomes a part of the object, is absolutely 
unharmed by friction or acids and can be destroyed only by 
fracture. 

Overglaze decoration admits of greater variety in color and 
manipulation and is attended with less risk, although here also 
the greatest care must be exercised from the grinding of the 
color to the final "burnishing." A kiln of different construction 
is required for firing, and the degree of heat and time of burning 
varies with different colors. 

The successful combination of vitrifiable colors in a poly- 
chrome decoration depends not only on the artist's intuition, 
but also on the china painter'5 knowledge of color chemistry. 
He is often obliged to resort to a method not unlike lithography, 
of doing portions of his work one at a time, and if gold or raised 
paste enters into this design, he must always wait until the 
rest is fired before that is applied. The ceramic artist, more than 
any other, must, from the beginning of his efforts, see with his 
mind's eye his completed work, and with infinite patience await 
the result of the "fiery trial." A more mechanical process of 
decoration is that of printing the design in color or gold, and 
afterward touching up with the pencil. This is a much quicker 
method than hand work, and often very effective. 

Fashions in ceramic ornamentation come and go in popular 
favor, while the standard of excellence grows higher each year, 
as culture is more widely diffused. No producer of beautiful and 
useful things strives more earnestly than does the potter to win 
and deserve a name and fame from an appreciative public. 




38MtiiTaySt. 
NEW YORK 

pOREMOST LINE OF 

^ " AMERICAN CUT GLASS. 

New and Beautiful Sfaapes. Send for Catalogue. Ekctros furnished for Advertising. 

Color Perfect. Beauty of Design and Brilliancy 
of Finish Unquestionable. 

The Dealer ^i^o handles "BERGEN" CUT GLASS can defy competition, because quality of Goods and Prices arc right. 




UTOPIAN FAIENCE. 



A high-glaze ART POTTERY »n beautiful blendings 
of dull Green, Mauve and Brown. Each piece distinctive; free 
hand decorations, great variety in shapes. 

Prices for the different pieces vary from 50 cents to $100. 



Tbe Line is specially adapted for the Retail Jeweler. 

New York Salesroom: I D rkW/P\IC Dr^TTTPDV C Ci Main OHlce and Pottery, 

V. H. DUNN, 6a-70 Vest Broadway. ^* '-^* V/YyErlllO r V/ 1 llJrIVl W*^ ZANESVILLE, O. 



BACCARAT GLASSWARE 

(Cristalleries de Baccarat, France). 

Trad4^Mark. Gilt, Eiigravcd ahd Cut StCttWarC 

in many UNIQUE and HANDSOME DESIGNS, specially adapted for Retail 

Jewelers. 
Largt variety of CUT GLASS PIECES for Silversmiths. 

Mew York Office* 41 Warren Street, PAUL DDRAND, Managet 




PECiALTiES IN Desseit Plates, Hsh 
and Game Sets, Cups 
and Saucers, Art Pieces,^ 

DAVISON BROS., .. k„h^c^.;\^*^ 

Showrooms, 12 Barclay Street, New York. 



Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



554 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



May 3, 1899 




This department is deTOted to practical and theoretical articles relating to 
the science and study of optics, and will be sustained by able writers on this 
subject. Under this head win be published fun reports of meetings of the 
sereial optical societies, as wen as an news of interest to opticians, together 
with copies of lectures and other papers relating to optics. 



Subscribers are invited to send questions on matters on which 
they desire information. These will be answered through our 
columns, which are also open for the ventilation of all phases of 
Optical opinion. 

Communications Should be Addressed Optical Department, 
The Jewelers Review, 170 & 172 Broadway, New York. 



L. L. Ferguson, Editor. 



Vol. XXXII 



MAY 3. 1895. 



No. 18 



Some Kind' 
of Advertisiof 



We fondly hoped, that the futility of invok- 
ing laws against opticians by medical men 
would have dawned upon the latter class, and 
while even 99 per cent, of ophthalmologists 
recognize that opticians have some vested 
rights which they are bound to respect, yet the remaining one 
per cent., in the absence of anything better to occupy their time, 
in the hope of attaining "temporary immortality," break out 
sporadically and attempt to start a crusade against that which 
conflicts with their self-constituted code of ethics. 

It is of more than passing significance that the instigators of 
this form of pussilanimous persecution are as a rule, to fame 
unknown. Why? The medical code of ethics presents an in- 
flexible front to those who come within its pale. If the practi- 
tioner infracts that code, no longer is he allowed under the aegi^ 
of his local medical society, and thus he would be deprived of 
what is known as a "good standing in the profession." Now 
then, remaining ethical apparently, at the same time doing things 
which are against the spirit of the code, is done times innumerable 
by those who assume virtues even if they have it not, by fhe 
younger and ambitious element in the medical profession. There- 
fore it is but natural that some should chafe under ethical 
restraints and with an anxious eye attempt to discover a pedestal 
whereon they can pose. Now, their innate modesty would forbid 
them standing in the limelight of popular scrutiny, were it not for 
the fact that they seem to imagine that the destinies of the people 
and particularly the welfare of their eyes are in their keeping 
It must be a sore temptation for medical fledglings not to rusl 
into he columns of the daily press to ventilate real or fancied 
t^rievances or to air their opinions on maters of hygiene that 
interest the laical as well as the medical fraternity. It is such 
an easy matter to obtain a little notoriety thereby, you know 
and it knocks into smithereens the old fogy notion that y^^' 
should hang out your shingle and kait, like Micawber, for p? 
tients "to turn up." 



The good old-fashioned physicians in days gone by. when 
writing 10 tiie lay papers, anent topics that intereiied the general 
run of humanity, had the healthy habit of either signing their 
initials thereto, or else using a nom de plume. But times have 
changed; scarcely a day elapses but what we are regaled with 
letters in the daily press from some medical chafing aspirant to 
fame with his full name conspicuously appended thereto, or else 
it appears as a cooked up interiew with the inspirer's name and 
address very much in evidence therein. 

Strictures cannot be too severe updn this form of advertise- 
ment ; it is exactly in the same category of questionable morality 
as is the practice of certain patent medicine men who print their 
adertisements as quondam news, and after the reader has waded 
through several paragraphs of thrilling adventure he finds that 
the hero or heroine in question saved their life by taking So & 
So's pills. 

Until lately these were about the only methods that could be 
invoked without infracting professional ethics, but recently those 








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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



555 



to whom fortune and fame are unknown, have discovered a much 
better plan, to wit, becoming a sleuth and attempting to impound 
luckless individuals that they allege violate medical practice acts, 
and incidentally apprise the news-reading public of not only the 
information but also of their name and other essentials which go 
toward rounding out the symmetry of their adertisement. 

We put the matter in this light because the truth of our state- 
ment is self-eident, or at least by deductiori. In the many com- 
plaints which are presented before the courts, to our knowledge 
not a single complainant had ever achieved distinction even 
among his own class. Imagine, if you will, the spectacle of your 
family physician, prospering financially and enjoying the respect 
of both clientele and neighbors, being the complainant in a court. 
Impossible! you will exclaim. Then who are the instruments 
for this class of work? Simply those who are like Caissus, "lean 
and hungry." 

In the mental amblyopia which this hungry ness has engendered, 
a medical man claims that an optician of New Jejrsey has been 
violating the medical practice act of that State by advertising in 
the papers a cut of a person which represents another one in the 
act of dropping medicine into the eyes, and states he is going to 
bring the matter before the Hudson County Board of Health. 
We would request the opservation of the fact that he immediately 
rushed the complaint, his own name included, into print before 
the health board has acted upon the same (no comments are 
necessary). Furthermore, even the most casual inspection of the 
cut in question, will show that it represents a person dropping 
the emdicine into their own eyes. Every optician is familiar with 
the adertisement which has appeared in all of the optical papers 
throughout the country, the design of which is merely a graphic 
portrayal, principally of the fact that the Murine remedy is not a 
salve but a solution, the pose of the head and the position of 
the hand clearly indicating that they belong to one and the same 
person, and not as this "oculist" alleges, that it represents one per- 
son dropping a solution into another's eye. We must confess 
that the quotations from the Jersey law which this "oculist" in- 
vokes upon first glance looks rather formidable, but it is like all 
similar blanket laws, too sweeping to be constitutional, and if 
such, the druggist who dispenses Bonnet's Sarsaparilla and 
Pond's Extract, is equally liable to arrest and imprisonment. 



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SPECTACLE FRAMES 

THEIR PROPER ADJUSTMENT 

At the fifth annual meeting of the New York State Association 
of Opticians, the Rev. B. Brunning read the following paper on 
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care of the dimes and the dollars will take care of themselves," 
which is only another way of suggesting the important fact that 
it is indispensably necessary to attend to all the minor details in 
any line of business or profession in order to obtain the most 
perfect results desired. And I know of no profession where a 
strict and conscientious attention to duty and details is more 
imperatively demanded than from the professional optician, in 
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556 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



May 3, 1899 



delicate, difficult and philanthropic work. I say critical stage, 
because we are opposed and maligned on one side by the tramp- 
ing peddler whose only object is the mere dollar he makes un- 
der the pretension of being an optician, of the true principles of 
which he knows nothing, and on the other by the medical pro- 
fession who would drive us from the field entirely, by law, that 
they monopolize the entire business by adding the science of 
refraction to that of medicine and occulistic work. 

We have an important, useful and dignified profession, and it 
becomes us to courageously stand by it and prove our claim to 
it by perfecting ourselves in it, in all its details, so as to com- 
mand the respect due to its merits. 

In attending the graduation of a class of medical students at 
the Iowa State University at Iowa City, some years since, the 
president, after delivering the important and ever present diplo- 
mas, made a short address to the outgoing young M. Ds., in 
which he said: "I now presume that you young gentlemen con- 
sider yourselves fully equipped and qualified to go forth in your 
chosen profession and take upon yourselves the responsibilities 
of doctors?" To which the class seemed to give a smiling assent. 
The president then said: "Well, gentlemen, I regret to tell you 
that you are not so qualified. You have only obtained from 
this institution the general principles upon which the profession 
is founded; the details, which are many and far more important, 
are still to be gained and can be obtained only by the closest 
observation, and patient and varied experience. Great responsi- 
bilities will settle down upon your professional shoulders and 
upon your consciences. Into your hands will be placed the lives 
of many men, women and children, who are the loved ones of 
many others, and until you become proficient by your practice 
mistakes are very liable to occur, which will cost some of those 
lives. We have all made them, no doubt, and discovered the 
fact too late to remedy our errors and save the patient's life. 
But you are blessed in one direction, above the members of all 
other professions, namely, in that that the grave will cover up 
a great deal of your dirty work, of which the public will have 
no positive knowledge.*' 

Now, gentlemen, this will not apply to us in any sense, as the 
mistakes we make are, in most cases, known to the sufferers; and 
are usually heralded to the world in the smaller or larger circles 
of acquaintances according to the standing of those either in- 
jured or unsatisfied with our professional work. 

I need present no arguments here in support of the fact of the 
importance of the organs of vision to the human family, and with 
which we have to do directly, as well as indirectly to those ner- 
vous diseases and difficulties incident to impaired vision. 

Among the important details of our professional work is the 
understanding of how to select proper frames and the exactitude 
of their adjustment to the required needs of our varied patients, 
or patrons, as you may please to call them. For many years I 
have been surprised at not finding any important articles or 
statements concerning this much-needed branch of our profes- 
sion, and have especially so in the later works of Chalmer Prin- 
tice, Hartridge, Clairbone, St. John Roosa, Dr. John Phillips, 
Hartman or Fay, and but scarcely a word in the optical journals 
and Keystones in my profession. 

In this paper I am dealing very little in theories, as it is facts 
which we need, and I give it as a matter of observation and ex- 
perience, that not more than three out of ten spectacle wearers 
have properly fitting and adjusted frames, and a good share of 
those who have such, or at least a fair minority, I have found to 
have been as much a matter of good luck, as from the actual 
knowledge of those furnishing the spec tacles, and especially in 
those cases where the goods have bcc.i obtained from jewelers 
and peddlers who are not optical si*..-ents. I regret to have to 
state that among the best refractionists, with whom I have be- 
become acquainted both in the East and West, and whom I 
would trust implicitly in both delicate- and difficult cases re- 
<iuiring refractionary work; yet I would not trust them to adjust 
spectacles to my face and eyes for me to wear. In the course 
of my long practice I have had many cases, where patrons of 
the most popular opticians have come to me complaining very 
bitterly of the prices paid to them for unsatisfactory work, and 
■not so much about the prices paid, if only the work done had 
been properly done. Such cases have usually those of the astig- 
matic kind with compound lenses set in gold frames, wherein 
the claim was that they were not properly fitted. 

I will give you one case merely as a sample of others. This 
was a case of a lady, say, 30 years of age. In this case I took 
pains to neutralize the lenses in spherical cylinder power and - 
axis. Then made a very careful test examination, and found the ' 
prescription perfect, when in the trial frames. T then took the 



measure of the frames she had been wearing and found the pupil- 
lary distance 56 M., when she needed 62 M., and the height of 
the bridge was but 4 M., when she required 7 M. to give her per- 
fectly corrected vision. Such a mistake in the adjustment of 
frames forced her to constantly remain under prismatic effect 
from the outer lateral and the under vertical positions. In this 
case 1 furnished new and properly adjusted frames, transferred 
the lenses from the former to the latter and the vision was per- 
fect. The lady constantly represented me as the most skilled 
optician she had ever employed, which was very pleasant, of 
course, and which profited me very much by giving me practice 
among her friends and acquaintances, and will do the same for 
anyone who has not already become proficient in this special di- 
rection, if only they will become so. It is, perhaps, unnecessary 
for me to say to those present that, in addition to the imperative 
need of accuracy in pupilary distance, that the angle of adjust- 
ment is very different in glasses for distant vision and those for 
near work, as the latter requires very little variation in positions, 
while in the former the field of vision is so vast in extent that 
the lenses should be brought as near as possible to the eyes and 
not interfere with the eyelashes, and the angle the same as that 
of the face, so that the wearer may be able to carry his head in 
its natural position. The two angles as presented above, would 
seem to naturally lead to the suggestion that "Bifopals" were 
not just the thing, as the angle of adjustment would be the same 
and the requirement different. Although, of course, this can be 
overcome largely by the adjustment of the head and eyes, drop- 
ping both in the direction desired, although in looking up at a 
near point even or with their heads and necks in an awkward 
position that is anything else but graceful. 
(To be continued.) 



WORKING DISTANCES IN SKIASCOPY 

LECTURE ON SKIASCOPY DELIVERED BEFORE THE OPTICAL 
SOCIETY OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK BY L. L. FERGUSON. 

{Copyright^ iSgS. i>y The Jeweler s Revieio) 
Continued. 

The diameter of the Skiascope has a decided bearing upon 
the intelligent use of this form of testing, the larger the mirror, 
necessarily the longer will the fundus reflex be visible to the 
operator, by reason of the fact that it will require a longer 
length of time for the light to travel off of a large mirror than it 
would from a small one. Every one, optician or schoolboy, 
knows that if a boy situated across the street, held in either 
hand a large and small mirror and therewith reflected the sun- 
light in your eyes, tilting each simultaneously, that it would 
require a greater length of time for the light to traverse the 
larger mirror than it would the smaller one. So, while rap- 
idity of action during the skiascopic test is very desirable, yet 
relative slowness is necessary whilst observing the transit of 
the reflex across the pupil. So if a small mirror is used, the 
act of transit is accomplished appreciably quicker than though 
a larger reflecting surface was used, a condition not to be de- 
sired, particularly with the beginner, who by virtue of the (to 
him) newness of the test, is not able to permit his mental per- 
ceptions to keep pace with his ocular perceptions, to sum the 
matter up everything appertaining to the test should be done 
with despatch excepting the actual observation of the emergent 
reflex, which should be done as slowly as possible, thus saving 
mental confusion, and the necessity to retraverse the same 
meridian a half a dozen times before an adequate conception 
is had as to just what is or needs to be done. 

The curve of the reflecting surface of the mirror is of the 
highest importance, if one desires absolute accuracy by the 
skiascopic test. Concave and plane mirrors have been in use 
for some time, but each has its virtues and faults, the concave 
considerably more of the latter than the former, whilst the 
plane one is pre-eminently the best and but one fault can be 
found with it, i. e., it reflects rays of light divergently. In ex- 
planation we must say that actually there are no parallel rays 
in nature save those that come from the sun itself. Now opti- 
cians have become accustomed to hearing that rays travel 
parallel from a point 20 feet outward. This is true approximately 
only as can be proven by reflecting the light from a given 
source by a plane mirror, and unvariably the area illuminated 
by the mirrors reflection will be larger than the mirror itself, 
thus demonstrating that actually light does not travel parallel 
but appreciably divergent as is evidenced by the illuminated 
area being larger than the surface which has reflected it, this 
divergency of the light practically amounts to it being a sub- 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



557 



trading ray, subtracting from the potential strength of the 
dioptric media of the eye, therefore the correction attained un- 
der such circumstances will be too strong if plus, too weak if 
minus, because not only will the pre-existing hypecmetropia 
be neutralized, but the stimulated hypecmetropia will be mani- 
fested, occasioned by the proximity of the light. Therefore a 
plane mirror really cannot be advantageously used unless the 
light in making the test be situated at least 15 feet or more 
away from the ametropes eye so as to render them parallel as 
possible, at that point they would not be as much divergent as 
would equal the divergency of light caused by a — .25 Dshh. 
The same error is met with in the use of the concave mirror, 
which bundles rays down to its principal focus, providing the 
incident ray is parallel; but, the closer the source of light is 
made to come, the more divergent it is, therefore it subtracts 
from the strength of the mirror, consequently the means of 
measuring is constantly a variable factor, which of course ren- 
ders it unreliable. 




AlfArc/PALNH^irS 



As can be seen in the accompanying diagram, rays of light 
traveling parallel from A impinge upon the mirror and is then 
refracted to a, which is the actual focus of the mirror. B emits 
divergent light by virtue of its being within the infinity point, 
therefore its divergency subtracts from the focal power of the 
mirror and results in its being brought to a focus at b, which 
necessarily is farther away than a. 

Now then it is clear that the focal power of a concave mirror is 
one of two principal factors in the computation of the refractive 
error, a plane mirror used in a mild case of hypermetropia. say, 
of .25 D, will show it as it is (providing the light comes from 
infinity), whilst a weak concave mirror, say. of .25 D focus, 
would render the appearance myopic, therefore, if the strength 
of the concave mirror was stronger, the amount of myopia (ap- 
parent) evinced would naturally be in proportion. Now then 
it is clear that either a plane or a concave mirror does not re- 
veal the actual error insitio, but either apparently increases the 
amount if a plane mirror be used in hypermetropia. or decreas- 
ing the amount of error in myopia, the reverse of which is the 
case with the concave mirror. Therefore, recollecting that the 
greater the distance the light is removed from the operator, as is 
measured from the light to the mirror and from thence to the 
ametrope, the less will be that diverging so far as the emitted 
light is concerned, and if the intervening working distance be- 
tween operator and client be as great as possible, it will not 
only insure less divergency, but also permit of a more compre- 
hensive understandable view of the fundus reflex, that is, of 
course barring working at such great intervening distance that 
would preclude a sufficiently large retinal image in the eye of 
the operator. 

(r<? be continued.) 



Spectacles can be fitted with a new attachment to enable the 
wearer to see what is behind him without turning around. 



OPTICAL QUERIES AND ANSWERS. 

To Correspondents. - The names and addresses cf correspondents most be 
given, not necessarily for pablication, but merely to identify them if occasioft 
should arise. Ho letters will be answered by mail which properly beloni; to 
this department. 

WHY THE PIN-HOLE DISC IMPROVES SIGHT. 

E. E. T., Alabama. — "Why does a person see better through 
the pin-hole disc when they have defective sight?" 

Because it permits only the central or unrefracted rays of light 
to enter the eye and produce the sensation of sight on the yellow 
spot. 

We will suppose, for example, that there are fifty rays of light 
entering the eye. One of these rays must be located exactly in 
the center of the group and must therefore pass through the 
center of the refractive media. This ray of light is not bent or 
refracted in its passage through the eye but continues in a direct 
line or course from its origin (the object upon which the vision 
is fixed) through the refractive media to the yellow spot. This 
is the case with every eye normal or defective. In the defective 
eye the outside rays of light do not meet the central ray on the 
retina, but may cross before reaching the retina (Myopia) or 
they might (could they penetrate the tissue) meet behind the 
retina (Hypermetropia). Of course in the normal eye these out- 
side rays meet the central ray on the retina. When looking 
through the pin-hole disc all the rays of light are prevented from 
entering the eye except the central rays. If it be a normal eye 
the vision will not be improved, but if the eye be defective the 
vision will be improved by the outside rays which produce the 
defect, being prevented from entering the eye. 



We Can Teach You... 

personally or by correspondence, how 
to correct all defects of vision by 
means of the Trial Lenses and Test 
Cards, without using mydriatics, in- 
This is the simplest and most satisfactory method 




struments, etc. 
of Refraction. 



JOHN S. OWEN, MD», PrincipaL 



DETROIT OPTICAL INSTITUTE, 

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Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



558 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



May 3, 1899 



MIDDLE ATLANTIC STATE NEWS. 

PROM OUR SPBCIAL CORRBSPONDBNTS. 

Under thii beading wiU be found week by week Bosiness News, Interest- 
ing and Bsefnl peitenal items from the States of New Tork, New Jersey, 
Pennsylvania, KaryUnd, Delaware and the VirginUs. We shall be glad to 
receive from onr readers for insertion in this column, notices of removal and 
business changes of all kind. Such notes should reach us not later than 
Monday morning in each week. 

NEW YORK. 

G. Simon, dealer in watches and jewelry, 525 Fulton street, 
Brooklyn, is closing out his stock. 

R. S. Marryott has removed from 1229 Bedford avenue, 
Brooklyn, to his new store on Fulton street. 

The stock of Rogers & Bro., formerly of 16 Cortlandt street, 
has been removed to the old store of Simpson, Hall, Miller & 
Co., 36 E. Fourteenth street, where it is being sold at public 
auction in conjunction with the balance of Simpson, Hall, Miller 
& Co.'s stock by Auctioneer Edward Cane. 

A liquidation sale of china, porcelains, potteries, crystal, bric- 
a-brac and art objects of LeBoutillier & Co., 18 East Seven- 
teenth street, was commenced Monday, May i, and will con- 
tinue at 2 o'clock, daily, until the entire stock is disposed of. 

Robert H. Ingersoll & Bro. report a shipment last week of 
15,000 watches to England, where there is little or no competi- 
tion in cheap goods of this description. South Africa, which is 
rapidly becoming the next best market after England, ordered 
several thousand. The firm's last year's exports exceeded 200,- 
000 w^atches. 

A small package of jewelry was found last Friday, by Edwin J. 
Isaacs, 54 Maiden Lane. The owner can recover same by ap- 
plying to Mr. Isaacs and proving property. 

Morris Fordansky, 22 years old, of 7 East Third street, Man- 
hattan, was held for trial in default of $1500 bail in the Essex 
Market Court, last Thursday, on a charge of grand larceny. 
David Barnett, a jewelry dealer of 469 Fifth street, Brooklyn, 
on April 7 last gave him a diamond breastpin, valued at $150, to 
sell. Fordansky pawned the jewel for $100 and then fled to 
Pennsylvania. He was arrested upon his return to the city. 

L. Tannenbaum & Co., incorporated, are taking in the lofts 
above their present quarters. This will give the firm some 
much-needed room. The lofts are now being repapered, painted 
and fitted up handsomely. 

L. S. Meyer & Bro., dealers in jewelry, optical goods, tools, 
etc., have removed to 38 Maiden lane, first floor. Their new 
quarters are larger, better lighted and more convient in many 
ways. 

The Ansonia Clock Company's offices are now in the large 
modern fireproof building, 99 John street, in which they occupy 
the entire fifth floor and in which the stock is down to excel- 
lent advantage. The old quarters in CliflF street, are still retained 
as warerooms. 

There is no foundation for the rumor that Tiffany & Co. 
were negotiating with the owners of the Manhattan Club site at 
Fifth avenue and Thirty-fourth street, for the purchase of the 
property and the erection of a large steel building, the lower 
floors to be occupied by the above firm. Charles L. Tiffany, 
head of the house of Tiffany & Co., says: "The report is without 
foundation. We have not considered such a thing, and have no 
intention of moving." 

George H. Howard, senior partner in the firm of Howard, 
Klason & Co.. of Attleboro Falls, Mass., has removed his family 
to this city. Mr. Howard will have charge of the New York 
office, which his firm is to open here. 

R. Cohn, dealer in diamonds and jewelry, has removed from 
180 Bowery to 41-43 Maiden Lane. 

The Diamond Point Pen Company have removed from 231 
Broadway to 102 Beekman street. 

A. Paraton, New York representative for J. Pouyat, sailed for 
Europe recently. 



There is no foundation for the rumors that the National Asso- 
ciation of Credit Men will support the new Mutual Mercantile 
Agency, which is being organized by Erastus Wiman in oppo- 
sition to the Dun and Bradstreet agencies. James G. Cannon, 
the president of the Credit Men's Association, says: "Our Asso- 
ciation is not interested in any mercantile agency. The officers 
of the Association have steadfastly refused to make any alliance 
with any and all mercantile agencies, believing it is the function 
of our Association to act as an independent organization and 
thus be entirely free to criticise the mercantile agencies and se- 
cure for the* members of our Association the very best service." 

The American Smelting and Refining Company, which was 
incorporated under the laws of the State of New Jersey, April 
4, has absorbed the United Smelting and Refining Company, 
which operates smelters at East Helena and Great Falls, Mon. 
A deed to all its property in the State of Montana has been 
executed to the new concern. The consideration is not stated. 

D. Pelsner, 158 Fifth Fifth avenue, Brooklyn, has disposed of 
his stock at auction, and will retire from business. 

Auctioneer Theo. Hacker has closed out the stock of dia- 
monds and jewelry of Richard Cohn, 180 Bowery. 

Frederick Boger, secretary of the American Association of 
Opticians, announces that the annual meeting of the Associa- 
tion will be held at Rochester, N. Y., Aug. 15, 16 and 17. 

The Barber Jewelry Manufacturing Company have removed 
from 39 Vesey street to 36 Gold street. 

S. Konovitz has removed from 14 to 42 Maiden Lane. 

The Blair Fountain Pen Co., are now located in their new 
quarters at 163 Broadway. 

C. G. Malliet and S. B. Ross, of C. G. Malliet & Co., import- 
ers and cutters of diamonds, 14 Maiden Lane, sailed for Europe 
May 3, on the steamship "St. Louis.'* They will make extra 
purchases of rough diamonds in London, and then visit Am- 
sterdam where they will place a large order for polished dia- 
monds. 

The following named persons have been accepted as members 

of the American Association of Opticians: 

J. J. MacKeown, Lewis Allen, Pgul A. Meyrowitz, W. T. Gcorgcn, G. 
Schoenig:, I. Mayer and T. A. Theo. Obrig, New York; W. Guilbault, 
Biddeford, Me.; George H. Brown, Manchester, N. H.; W. A. Charping, 
Vaiden, Miss.; R. W. Chamberlain, Marshalltown, Iowa; Richard Ashbjr, 
Colorado Springs, Colo. ; John E. Bell, Ogdensburg, N. Y. ; S. ShatwcIU 
Dimond, Cal.; E. E. Bausch & Son, Rochester, N. Y.; J. A. Caouttc, Man- 
chester, N. H.; Aug. Week. Norfolk, Va.; William C. funkins, M. D., 
Portsmouth, N. H. ; W. A. Johnson, Laurens, S. C. ; C. M. Jenkins, Rich- 
mond. Ind.; Frank E. Murtha, SchenecUdy, N. Y.: S. G. Marschutz, Los 
Angeles, Cal., and A. M. & M. E. Kenney, Utica, N. Y. 

A Green, watchmaker and jeweler, has removed to his new 
quarters at 801 Manhattan avenue, Brooklyn. 

Reed & Barton will remove to their new store, 6 Maiden Lane, 
as soon as alterations are completed. 

The American Gold Statue Co., has filed letters of incorpora- 
tion at Albany, N. Y. Capital, $10,000. Its purpose is the ex- 
hibiting of a solid gold statue of a well known actress at the 
Paris Exposition of 1900. 

Constantine N. KauflFman, who for the past few years has 
been in the employ of TiflFany and Schumann & Sons, was ar- 
rested Thursday, in Brooklyn, by United States Secret Service 
officers, for making counterfeit English shillings. When ar- 
rested by the detectives he confessed that his idea was to make 
a large quantity of the money and carry it to England, where 
it was to be put into circulation. The dies that he had in his 
possession when arrested were remarkably fine, and as he pro- 
posed to use real silver in their manufacture, the detectivs say 
that the money would have undoubtedly deceived experts. KauflF- 
man was held for the Federal Grand Jury. 

Ludike & Power, diamond dealers, have removed from 23 to 
14 John street. 

William Reiman, dealer in watches and diamonds, 1225 Broad- 
way, removed May i to the Hoffman House. 

A. Schorr, importer of jewelry and novelties, 945 Broadway, is 
closing out his stock. 



The 



Mercantile National Bank 



OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK, 

BROADWAY AND DEY STREET, 

Solicits Accounts from the Jewelry Trade 



Digitized by VnOOQiC 



J 



May 3. 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



559 



e claimed 
. Outlaw, 
ucted for 
even bolt- 
affidavits 
1 persons 
ntion wa6 
lett were 
)zen votes 
le first of 
ailed, bot 
ed a pro- 
n and an 
^ken nn- 

jTested in 
committee 
history it 
the press 
tions, and 
club room, 
lors, were 
. political 

he conven- 
ally dedi- 
Iding was 
,er 10,000 
Speeches 
igeon be- 
President 
's league, 
elaborate 
tmmental 
he conclu- 
joined in 
,d Blue." 
ested the 
uditorium 
rfect. 
commoda- 
B reached i 
a speedy ' 
♦^^hose com- 1 
latter in 
he South- 1 
nd after a 
of hotel 
that the 
. the Lin- 
make no 



have everything ready to jump out ae 
the hour of 4 arrives. The government 
gets the advantage of this extra spurt 
from thousands. On other days the 
clerks are not so particular, and do not 
hesitate to let unfinished work go over 
until the next day. But on ball days 
they run no risks, and clean their desks 
up eo that they cannot be held back from 
the game."— Washington Star. 



How One Man Crushed the Watch 
Trust. 

The Dueber Watch Case Manufactur- 
ing Company, by a recent decision in the 
United States Court of Appeals, which 
declared the so-called Colby Patent Pen- 
dent Setting Watch Device invalid, had 
finally wiped out of existence the last 
vestige of the illegal and corrupt Watch 
Trust. 

Mr. John C. Dueber, president of the 
Dueber and Hampden Watch Companies, 
after a bitter fight with the Watch 
Trust for the past eight years, has. un- 
aided and alone, brought about this re- 
sult. 

This Watch Trust embraced all Watch 
Case Manufacturers except the Dueber j 
Company, all Watch Movement Manu- 
factures except the Hampden Watch | 
Company, and all wholesale dealers in | 
Watches— all of whom are compelled to 
refuse to deal in watches of the Dueber- 
Hampden manufacture, pay a royalty on 
this, now decided illegal, Colby Patent, 
or else go out of the Watch business. 

This decision of the Court of highest 
authority places the Dueber-Hampden 
Watch Company, at Canton, O., decid- 
edly at the head of all Watch Manu- 
facturers in America.— St. Louis Repub- 
lic, June 2, 1896. 



Waning AyrloDliare. 

In 1874 there were 3,630,300 acres of 
land devoted to the growing of wheat in 
Great Britain and 188,711 acres in Ire- 
land. In 1895 only 1,417,641 acres were 
thus cultivated in Great Britain and 
36,529 acres in Ireland. During the 
same period the area of permanent pas- 



488^5 for den 
Government 
GRAIN, 
Flour — Unt 
Wheat— No 

14^0. July 64 
CoBN — Jane 
Oats — No. 

mixed western 

ness In bank 
Labd — Weal 
POBK— Old 

9.00. 

BUTTBB Ul 

Chbesb IJl 

Eggs — West 
Cattle — No 
Sheep — |3.i 
Hogs — Ste 

Clbveland- 
|3.60@|4.10. 
Wheat — No 
COBN — No. 
Oats — No. 
Buttbb — Nc 
Cheese — Yo 
Eggs — Strl 

POTATOKS — 

Cattle — c 
f3.75@3.25, go 
13.00^3.25! It 

Hogs — York 
roughs 12.25 

Chicago. A* 

57%c. 
CoBN — June 
Sheep — Coo 
Oats — June 
PoBK — June 
L ABO— June 
KiBS — June 
Cattle — C 

stockers and 

5 :10. 
Hogs — Hea^ 

8 :20, common 

|2.50@3.35. 
Sheep — inc 

|2.00@6.25. 

Toledo. Jul 
and June 64 V* 
COBN— No. 

Oats — Nove 
Clover — s 

BCIPPALO, 

|3.50@3.55, o) 
@4.00. 

Hogs — Good 
|3.60@3.65, pi 
©3.50, medlun. 

Shbbp and 



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586 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



May 10, 1899 



^^^^''-^■'■'Mlij-^il 




This department Is deToted to practical and theoretical articlOB relating to 
the adence and study of optics, and will be sustained by able writers on this 
subject. Under this head wiU be published full reports of meetings of the 
serexml optical societies, as well as all news of interest to opticians, together 
with copies of lectures and other papers relating to optics. 



Subscribers are invited to send questions on matters on which 
they desire information. These will be answered through our 
columns, which are also open for the ventilation of all phases of 
Optical opinion. 

Communications Should be Addressed Optical Department, 
The Jewelers Review, 170 & 172 Broadway. New York. 



L. L. Ferguson, Editor. 



Vol. XXXII 



MAY 10, 1899 



No. 19 



A bill has been recently introduced into the 
The Commission House of Lords, in England, to prohibit the 
Microbe is practice of commissions being given amongst 
Evidently Not Endemic various societies, professional and trades peo- 
ple. It seems that on the other side this 
commissionaire business has grown to enormous proportions, 
to such an extent that it has become the subject of a Parlia- 
mentary Inquiry Committee. 

The London Chamber of Commerce seems to have been 
greatly shocked at some of the testimony adduced before it 
Among the various persons that testified before this commis- 
sion was that of a chemist, who asservated that he personally 
knew of commissions being paid to doctors for prescriptions 
The English correspondent of the New York Medical Record, 
commenting thereon states: "Though possibly here and there 
some one may have fallen so low, it is undeniable that nearly 
all members of the profession would disdain to put themselves 
in a position which is not considered respectable." The prac- 
tice of giving rakeoffs is not only in vogue among the medical 
profession, but also among artists, trades people and others. 
However, we are glad to hear that business ethics have not 
reached that state of moral turpitude in England as they have 
on this side of the water. It is to be presumed that a corre- 
spondent of a paper possesses more than the ordinary means for 
acquiring information, and thus from his pen we must accept 
has statements ex cathedra that "Though possibly here and 
there some one may have fallen so low," etc. Therefore, it is 
to be assumed that while the commissionaire custom has ob- 
tained a firm foothold amongst artists, trades people, etc., it is 
only just beginning to raise its insiduous head among men of the 
medical profession on the other side, but how about such intol- 
erable practices here in the States. This detestable custom has 
been so long and widely in vogue that we have come to regan! 
it much the same as we do any vice, a little perturbed in r .m 
science at first possibly, next viewing it with a lenient gai:cr. if 
not embracing it outright. Surely men who otherwi -.• rridc 
themselves upon their immaculate morals should hes't . . bej-.j 
they soil their hands or garments with such an i^* ' • : ! v., 
doubly ignoble when a co-worker in a professic '^ " .. acsi- 
tate to anathematize the custom and particip-r* * :be :xpres- 
sions above quoted. 
It is but natural that trades people • -.'.^ r ^*;ort to such 



tricks of dubious virtue, the very spirit of trade is competition, 
and amongst that vast army of tradesmen there must exist those 
whose business virtues are considerably sullied. We must ex- 
pect such from them, for even in the days of ancient Rome, 
when there existed a glut of deities, such as national, tribal 
tutelary and household gods for each and every one to worship, 
it was a singular fact that the thieves and trades people wor- 
shiped the same deity, Mercury; demonstrating in a measure a 
certain degree of affinity of morals. 

The physicians of old worshiped Jupiter, who was supposed 
to exercise an influence over the humors of the body, and their 
prescriptions always had affixed thereon the astronomical sign 
of Jupiter as an invocation for him to be propitious, and some 
researchers claim that the ^ which we today put upon our 
medicinal formulae is merely a corruption of the astronomical 
symbol. Looking through the long vista of time which history 
presents, happily the good deeds of our antecedents stand out 
strongly to the view whilst puerile deeds conceived in the mean- 
ness and littleness of one's soul are also happily lost to our view. 
But even with that charitablenesss which time exercises, it is 
but rational to suppose that the Hippocratic disciples of old 
did not indulge in the practices which quite a few now commit, 

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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



587 



because if they did they might have affixed the dual symbols of 
both Mercury and Jupiter. 

But leaving aside historical features, the present condition of 
things is what concerns us. Would to heavens that in this 
country we possessed as powerful organizations as the London 
Chamber of Commerce and the many Guilds which are subse- 
quent thereto, who could stamp their fiat of disapproval and 
condemnation upon such practices of dubious morality, and thus 
effectually put a stop to the same. 

** Every man to his trade," is an axiom that my implication 
infers that every man should also know the trials that are ger- 
mane to his trade. Possibly every vocation has its abuses, but 
we can only speak authoritatively of our own. And to our sor- 
row we are compelled to state that we deem it beyond the realm 
of possibility for any trade or avocation to be more afflicted with 
this execrable practice of commission giving than ours. 

Execrable enough when it applies to commercial staples, but 
morally it is the superlative of that adjunct when the practice is 
applied to the indigent or the toiler in the workshop or factory 
who gives of his little, in the illusive hope that he is receiving 
charity, but who is mulcted again by the dispensing optician in 
an amount utterly disproportionate to the spectacles intrinsic 
value, because he is compelled to give the rakeoff which has 
been previously bargained upon by the "oculist" 

To paraphrase a familiar quotation: "0, Charity, what crimes 
are committed in thy name." 



CEMENT BIFOCALS OF DIFFERENT REFRACTIVE 

INDICES 
There is supposedly nothing new under the sun. Everything 
that we have at the close of this Nineteenth century are merely 
adaptations of nature's forces that have been used for centuries. 
In optics it has been known for a century that if the same radial 
curvature be ground upon glass of different refractive index or 
specific gravity that the heavier the glass the shorter will be that 
lens focus. Just why this well known phenomena has not long 
since been incorporated into the manufacture of combined near 
and far glasses for presbyopia is hard to determine. Certainly it 
is not because the grinding machinery was of not sufficient 
quality, because in the last thirty years there has been prac- 
tically no improvement, save that of labor saving devices in the 
shape of grinding large numbers of sphericals or plane cylinders 
simultaneously. 

The reason there is practically the same as the slow evolve- 
ment of the other forms of bifocals, starting from the "split" 
which was invented by Benjamin Franklin and known techni- 
cally as "Franklin glasses" down to the "Perfection," the use 
of which became prevalent about fifteen years ago and consists 
of an elliptical segment ground out of the lower portion of the 
distance glass and therein inserted a segment of corresponding 
shape, but of greater radial curvative or focus. . 

Another lens is now treated in exactly the same manner, and 
for illustration sake, if they were cemented plane surfaces to- 
gether, the distance focus would be correct, but by virtue of the 
two concave surfaces being opposite each other together they 
would create an interstice. 

Now grind a flint glass of antithetical curvature which if it 
were of the same refractive index as the crown distant lenses, 
would now give the same focus all over alike. 

But by virtue of the flint being heavier its focus will le pro- 
portionately shorter, and when cemented within the orifice 
caused by the interposition of the two plano-concave-convex 
lens would synthetically give a beautifully finished cement bifo- 
cal perfectly smooth on either surface, in contradistinction to 
the Perfection which can be felt by the hand on either side as it 
comes in contact with the distance lens, or with the cement 
which is smooth only on one side. 

This scheme of cementing will be particularly invaluable from 
a cosmetic point of view, but the large cost entailed will pro- 
hibit its use becoming general. This, of course, loosens the 
wafer and sometimes permits it to come off altogether: further- 
niore, on warm days, in cleaning the lenses by reason of the 
temperature and the friction of the cleansing medium the wafer 
often becomes loosened. 

To obviate this there has recently been exhibited a new form 
ol cement bifocal, which, while retaining many good features 
o{ the old style, still has several more good points. The only 
<iifficulty in the way of its becoming universally used will be in 
the impossibility of procuring flint glass of sufficient density to 
give an added -|- 3.00 D wafer in cases of high degrees of prca • 
oyopia. 
As the matter now stands bifocals have been made by this 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



May lo, 1899 



process with a reading correction 2.00 D stronger than the dis- 
tance glass, the procedure of which is as follows: 

The grinder first takes a concave glass, say of — 1.50 D Shh, 
of which on one side is ground piano except a small space as 
per Fig. i. 

On the obverse side is now ground whatever curvature is 
necessary for the distance. The disadvantages arising from this 
sort of combination is that when the rays of light fall obliquely 
upon the intersections of the two surfaces that it allows in- 
descent scintillations to be diffracted into the eye, causing con- 
siderable annoyance. 

Another bad feature is that the interstices between the upper 
and lower lens became full of dirt, thus giving a rounded black 
line directly in front of the eye, also the lenses are merely held 
in position by the tightness of the eye wire, which, often coming 
loose, would permit the lower lens to drop completely out of the 
frame. However, to rural opticians this scheme is not without 
its advantages, inasmuch that it permits the upper and lower 
lenses when carefully ground and fitted to be interchangeable, 
thus precluding the necessity of the optician keeping an in- 
terminable stock on hand. 

Within the past ten years the cement bifocal has become de- 
servedly popular by reason of its neatness of appearance, free- 
dom from dirt at the upper edges, etc., but its principal draw- 
back is that a sudden jar is liable to produce **Newton's Rings," 
that beautiful indescent phenomena exhibiting all the colors of 
the spectrum when held in a favorable position to the light. 



WORKING DISTANCES IN SKIASCOPY 

LECTURE ON SKIASCOPY LKLIVEREO UEFORE THE OPTICAL SOCIETY OF T HE CITY OF NEW 
YORK BY L. L. FbRCUSON. 

{Copyright^ j8g8, by The Jeivelers Review) 
Continued. 

It seems then in the light of the above facts that to insure 
the use of that "sine qua non" (parallel rays), that a mirror 
should be ground that would be just sufficiently concave (and 
thus reflect convergently) to neutralize the divergency of the 
rays that travel from the source of illumination. Now if the 
optician was a working distance of 48 inches or 0.75 D. and the 
light used be. situated at an equal distance away, the light in 
reference to the strength of the observer's eye possesses a di- 
vergency or subtracting power of just one-half of .75 D or twice 
48 inches, which equals 0.37 D of divergency; to overcome this 
and thus insure the using af absolutely parallel rays the writer 
has for several years used a skiascopic mirror of 0.37, which 
neutralizes the divergency when used at 48 inches, thus insuring 
absolute parallel conditions of light, and considering the fact, 
the conditions are such seven-tenths of all cases are refractable 
at that distance away it may be observed that such concavity of 
the mirror is of no uncertain value, moreover, as stated befort, 
if the mirror be perfectly plane the light reflected thereby will 
be so divergent as to appreciably diminish its brilliancy, thus 
often making the actions of the fundus reflex unrecognizable 
thereby, whilst with a slight concavity not only does the optician 
work under more idealistic conditions, but the brilliancy of the 
reflected light is unimpaired, thus giving an intelligible reflex 
where in many cases with the perfectly plane mirror it would 
be unrecognizable. 

As regards the aperture size, form, etc., it may be said that 
the smaller the pupil of the observed eye, the smaller should 
the aperture of the scope be. This is necessary because if the 
aperture be larger or even the same size as the pupil no fundus 
reflex would be visible; to explain: The fundus reflex is visible 
by the surface of the mirror whose area is the same as the dif- 
ference between the size of the observed pupil and the diameter 
of the aperture. This fact accounts for the reason why so much 
better reflexes can be obtained from a larger pupil than a sma ! 
one. In the larger pupil, the latter by its increased size permf ^ 
more reflecting surfaces of the mirror to be used to simultan*. 
ously throw more of a volume of light rays into the eye. 

Some opticians prefer a drilled aperture, others merely have, 
the quicksilver removed from the sight spot. Each has its 
value, yet the virtues of the lormer preponderate over the lat* 
ter, nevertheless it is no easy matter to procure a skiascope wit!. 
a drilled aperture that is entirely free from diffraction spectra, 
caused by the unevenness of the bored surface which allows the 
<**rect rays from the light to impinge thereon, and according tf- 
the individual angle of each minute area the impinging light \^ 
deflected off in each corresponding direction. The presence o* 
this debars an uninterrupted view of the fundus reflex becaust 



it compels the observer to look through a blurred condition; 
to remove this, the makers resort to blackening the edges. But 
even then the black paint used does not always have an absolute 
absorbent effect on extraneous light, and the diffraction is gen- 
erally still visible, at all events it is but a temporary expedient 
at its best, the paint soon wears off, leaving the same condition 
at a later period. The prevention is better than the cure; have 
the aperture drilled very smooth on its edges, and if it is done 
correctly, no diffraction will be visible, and it will present the 
appearance of a dull-edged, frameless lens, clean in appearance 
and will always be the same so far as serviceableness goes. 

With the sight aperture of clear glass (unperforated) certainly 
the nuisance of diffraction spectra is done away with, much the 
same as the cement bifocal has superseded the perfection bifocal 
for practically the same reason, yet when the mirror is tilted ai 
certain angles, it produces a ghost reflection equally as tantaliz- 
ing as does the diffraction spectra in the perforated minor, 
furthermore, dust, etc., collects upon the sight hole detaining 
a clear view; of course the dust can be cleaned off, but it is gen- 
erally a hard matter to get it down inside of the backing of 
the mirror; altogether such form of a skiascope is an unmitigated 
nuisance and should be discarded altogether. To summarize the 
mirror question my experience leads me to prefer a mirror of 
at least 2 inches in diameter, a concavity or focus of about 0.37 
D., and a perforated sight aperture. 

THE ROOM. 
For subjective optometry the room should be 20 feet in 
length, for objective work it is desirable but unnecessary; if the 
ametrope is allowed a twenty-foot distant view, the optician will 
be more liable to approximately diagnose the refractive error ai 
once, providing the ametrope has worn glasses before and there- 
fore knows enough to appreciate the effort entailed by the use of 
his ciliary power; therefore, if the error be hypermetropia an J 
lenses have been perviously worn, the ametrope when looking at 
infinity will nearly always relax his accommodation, thus, in- 
suring to the optician not only a correct diagnose of the nature 
of the error, but also the amount. But if lenses have not pre* 
viously been worn, the hypermetropi will most assuredly use 
his accommodation because he knows no better and a casual 
skiascopic inspection will reveal an apparent emmetropia; these 
considerations, however, are merely predicated when what would 
be necessary (20 feet) for a diagnostician, the same results can 
be obtained in a 6-foot space as well as 20-foot, by imposing 
convex lenses successively stronger until the point of reversal 
is reached, which evidences the fact that no ciliary power is now 
being used; now, if the operator deducts from the ocular cor- 
rection out of deference to his working distance, he has 
achieved exactly the same results as though the operating room 
was 200 feet long. Myopic conditions are answerable to the 
same rule; certainly it is poor comfort for a myope to inform 
him that he is in a room^20, 100 or 200 feet long when his 
punctum remotum is, say, 26 inches by virtue of existing myopia 
of 1.50 D.; surely the optician can refract at a w. d. of* 26 inches 
and by virtue of finding the reflex choked, knows that there ex- 
ists myopia 00 that amount or he can choose a w. d. of 40 inches 
and thus find myopia to the extent of a 0.50 D. and then add the 
w. d. represented in diopters, i. e., i.oo D., which now stands 
—1.50 D. sph. 

It is thus clearly patent, that it is nonsense to say that the 
operating room should be 20 feet in length for skiascopy alone, 
certainly when the test is corroborated subjectively 20 feet dis- 
tance is imperative, but for skioscopy pure and simple a room 5 
feet in length would suffice, providing of course, that the skia- 
scopist was sufticiently clever to allow for such cramped space 
and to be keen enough not to fall into errors which such close 
quarters are liable to entail. For example, every optician 
kno\ys that as lenses decrease in focal power there is a greater 
''■.ear distance between quarter diopters; for instance, the linear 
■: iierence between a 0.50 D. and a 0.75 D. is in inches 24, whilst 
fl e difference between a 2.00 D. and 2.25 D. (notice the differ- 
•!cc in diopters is the same) is but 2 inches. Therefore, if the 
'vi^scopist in close quarters moves his head backward or for- 
w id only 2 inches (at a w. d. of 20 inches) it will result in a 
oit erence in the computation of a .25 D. Now if the w. d. be 
',^ 60 or 48 inches, the movement of the head several inches 
I a- kward or forward would have but little appreciable difference 
in the dioptric result, because, as previously observed, at a dis- 
tance of 4. 5 or 6 feet a 0.25 covers 24 inches, therefore, at that 
■'; nance a forward or backward movement of 2 inches would 
nn amount in diopters to about 0.02 of a diopter, which is 
•aically only one-twelfth of a 0.25 D., therefore unconse- 



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ciuential. The color of the walls is a subject that admits of little 
latitude, it should be either black or a dark brown, anything 
lighter than those permits too many reflections with its conse- 
quent lightness of the room and contraction of the ametropes 
pupil. To summarize the dark room question a 200-foot length 
is not a sine qua non for objective work, a 6- foot distance is all 
that is actually necessary, except for subjective corroboration, 
and the hue of the walls should be of an absorbing quality, pre- 
ferably black or dark brown. 

(To be continued.) 



SAILED FOR EUROPE 

Among the passengers of the S. S. Noordland, which sailed 
for Europe on the 3d was Mrs. T. W. Foster, wife of T. W. 
Foster, of Providence, and H. H. Jacobson on the Lucania. 

R. A. Breidenbach, J. T. Bailey, of Bailey, Banks & Biddle, 
Philadelphia; J. J. Elliot, H. C. Hardy, of H. C. Hardy & Co.: 
C. G. Malliet, of C. G. Malliet & Co.; S. B. Ross, W. P. Sackett. 
of John Wanamakers, Philadelphia, and Clement Weaver, of 
Bailey, Banks & Biddle, Philadelphia, sailed for Europe on the 
St. Lonis on the 3d inst. 



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75 and 77 NASSAtJ S TR E ET 



MMR BOXn, LIATHM NOVtLTIM, CAIIO OAMt, 
FIJI AMD FW FAOt, tAMFLI OAIIM, ITO. 



NEW YORK 



BSTABLISHBD 1854. 



WM. SMITH & CO., 

GILL BLDG., 9-13 MAIDEN LANE, N. Y. 61 PECK ST., PROVIDENCE, R. I. 




Maautocturcn of 



GOLD, SILVER AND ROLLED PUTE 

CHAINS AND JEWELRY. 

Novelties in Gold and Silver Bracelets. Also a large line of Chain 
Trimmings. 



BinU Schneider, "efnea 



OF 



Gold, Silver and Platinum 
and Sweep Smelting: 



^.!!1 REMVED to 45Ho 473 Riverside Ave. 
»e «e our 0«m imim. NEWARK, N. J. 



Jewelers snd Silversmiths are cordially invited to inspect our plant. 
t?f?f¥V?ff?ff?f??T?????¥f???f¥?¥ff??fffV? ^ 




A SAMPLE OF VORK DONE ON 

Tbe Eaton-Engle EngraYing Machine 

SEND FOR BOOKLET. 
EATOH-GLOTER CO., Ill Hassan St., Hew York. 



I Am 




King 



IN LADIES' AND BENTS' CHAINS. 

The TIGER BRAND is the Dealers' Chain Because ii SelU. 

Tbe TIGER BRAND is tbe Buyers' Chain Because it Wears. 

Write for Selection Package. 

THE SUMNER-GRIMES CO., 

L. S. MEYER & BRO. 

^ rJ^,!! !!r«^" 38 Maiden Lane, New York 

JEWELRY, OPTICAL GOODS, MATERIALS. 

Phillip jipmi, vm% (( €0. 

85 NasMu Street, NEW YORK. 

We have lately increased our facilities for doing R work. 
Prompt services. Accurate Work. Specialty of Bifocal Work. 
Send for new Price List 

i/^x YOUR 

^^ Optical Department 

^)^l is not complete without 

oi MURINE, oi 





CURES ALl EYE OtSCASES 
INFUMED EYES,&CAL£SON LIOI 

QI9ANULAT10N CTC 
By mall, 60 cents. 



Send for circulars and tee- 
timonials. Your Jobber has 
Murine, if not, order direct. 

•S.SO per Doien. 
An Up-to-Datb Rbmbdy. 
MURINB CO., HlMOfilc Temple, Chlcage. 



!"§ NORTHERN ILLINOIS COLLEGE 

OPHTHALMOLCXJY AND OTOLOGY, 

MASONIC TEMPLE, CHICAGO, 

Have issued an attractive Announcement with full description of Attend- 
ant. Poet-OradBato, and Correapeadent Courses, which will be mailed on 
application. 

ou can beffia your course at any time. Deirrees conferred and Diplo- 



mas awarded. Address 



G. W. McFATRICH. M.D.. Seonetaiiy, 

1015 MASONIC TEMPLE. CHlCAQO 



New York Mitial IptinI Coipuf 

REMOVED TO 9 MAIDEN UNE, 



EDWIN BECKWITH, 
Manager. 



NEW YORK. 



Digitized by 



Coogle 



590 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



May lo, 1S99 



MIDDLE ATLANTIC STATE NEWS. 

PROM OUR SPECIAL CORRBSPONDBNTS. 

^^^nder this heading win be found week by week Boeiness News, Intereet- 
mVand osefol pfrson^ items from the States of New Tork» New Jersey, 
Pennsylyania, Maryland, Delaware and the Virginias. We shall be glad to 
receive from onr readers for insertion in this column, notices of removal and 
-business changes of all kind. Such notes should reach us not later than 
Monday morning in each week. 

NEW YORK. 

The convention of the National Association of Credit Men 
will be held at Buffalo, June 6 and 8. Important questions re- 
lating to the National Bankruptcy law will be discussed, and 
suggestions received and codified preparatory to the assembling 
of the next Congress. The Committee on Mercantile Agency 
Service will perfect plans for more eflFectually punishing dis- 
honest debtors, both under State laws and under the provisions 
of the Bankruptcy act. 

A young man entered the jewelry store of Frederick RoufT, 
1007 Broadway, Brooklyn, last week Tuesday, and asked to be 
shown some watches. Rouff turned to pick out one which the 
young man designated, and as he did so he received a blow on 
the back of the head which rendered him unconscious. As 
soon as he regained his senses he found that the man was gone 
and he immediately called for help, which was answered by 
those in the adjoining store. When he had fully recovered he 
examined his stock and found that jewelry worth about $50 was 
missing. The matter was at once reported to the police, and 
detectives have been detailed to make an investigation. 

Marcus & Co., 857 Broadway, have secured new quarters at 
Fifth avenue and 4Sth street, and will remove to their new lo- 
cation in the near future. 

Owing to extensive alterations in the building at 683 Broad- 
way, Herman Knepper, manufacturer of jewelry, has been forced 
to seek new quarters, and is now located at 536 Broadway. 

John Foley, Jr., manufacturer of gold pens, has removed to his 
new store, 6 Astor House. 

Solomon Kann, of S. Kann, Sons & Co., sailed for Europe 
Thursday on the steamship *'Bremen." 

The Barber Jewelry Manufacturing Company, manufacturers 
of pyrites stone jewelry, have removed from 39 Vesey street to 
36 Gold street. They will make a specialty of jewelers' findings, 
and have added new and modern machinery, which give them 
increased facilities in their business. 

E. Bissel & Co. held a special trade sale of decorated china, 
white china, fancy goods, blown glass, stoneware, bisque fig- 
ures, vases, lamps, etc. The offering was in wide assortment 
and attracted a good company. Competition was active and 
general results met the owner's satisfaction. 

William G. Frazer & Co., manufacturers of fountain pens, 
are now located in their new quarters at 36 Gold street. 

Robert Schwerter & Co. have opened a branch store at 211 
Greenwich street. 

A New York office has been opened by C. Heubner & Sons, 
of Newark. It is located in the Anderson Building, 16 John 
street. 

Mr. Eaton, of Eaton & Glover^ makers of tfw. Eaton-Engle 
engraving machine, offices at 87 Nassau street, left last Saturday 
for New Orleans, where the firm have an exhibit in connection 
with Mr. Kromer, of above city, at the exposition which opened 
Monday, May. 8. 

Eaton & Glover, manufacturers of the Eaton-Engle engrav- 
ing machine, have removed from iii to 87 Nassau street, Ful- 
ton Building, where they will be closer to the jewelry district, 
in which they do an extensive business. 

H. N. Eliassof, of Eliassof Bros. & Co., of New York and 
Albany, met with a somewhat serious accident last Thursday 
evening. He boarded a Madison avenue trolley car downtown 
and desiring to alight at io8th street he signaled the car to stop. 



As he was about to alight the car started and threw Mr. Eliassof 
into the road sevcf$ig silting his Head. He was taken to a near- 
by drug store, where ^gkt stitches were put in -hi# head. We 
are glad to say Mr. Eliassof is able to be at business. 

Fred W. King, connected with the Julius King Optical Com- 
pany, will arrive in the city Saturday, from a four months trip 
through California and Mexico. Dr. Julius King,^ the head of 
the firm and his son, B. W. King, who are also in the West will 
return in June. 

A Correction. — In last issue we stated that G. Simon, im- 
porter of diamonds and watches, of 525 Fulton street, Brooklyn, 
was closing out his stock, giving the impression that he was go- 
ing out of business. This is incorrect, as the following letter 
we have received from Mr. Simon shows: 

Brooklyn, N. Y., May 6. 1899. 
The Jewelers* Review. 

Gentlemen : You have an account, in your paper stating that I am closing 
out my stock and same is causing a false impression among the trade. 
Now I would like you to alter that. We are offering a special discount pre- 
vious to extensive alterations. \ 

From your account the trade gets the impression that I am going out of 
business, instead of which I am going to spend a considerable amount to 
enlarge and very much improve my business. G. SIMON. 

Meeting of the Jewelers' League. — ^The regular monthly 
meeting of the executive committee of the Jewelers* League, was 
. held at the league office on Friday, May 4. There were present: 
President Hayes, Vice-Presidents Bowden and Greason, Messrs, 
Karsch, Smith, Lissauer and L. Stevens, Jr., secretary. Minutes 
of the previous meeting were read and approved. Report of the 
treasurer was presented and approved. Four requests for change 
of beneficiary were received and upon motion granted and the 
following applicants were admitted to membership; Roderick S. 
Mclver, Savannah, Ga., recommended by R. Van Keuren and S. 
E. Theus. Alfred M. Russell, Elgin, 111., recommended by E 
E. Egler and J. H. Caldwell. The next meeting will be held 
June 9. 

The firm of E. Gaylor & Co., of 823 Broadway dealers 
in optical goods, has retired from business. 

L. L. Ferguson, president of the New York Optical Society, 
has accepted an invitation from Edwin P. Wells, president of the 
New England Society of Opticians, to be a guest at their annual 
banquet to be held at Boston, May 23. 

Some three weeks ago Samuel Mac Donald, whose portrait fig- 
ures in the rogues gallery, visited the store of the Julius King 
Optical Company, Maiden Lane, and aroused the suspicions of 
the clerks by his actions. On Thursday he paid the firm another 
visit and was allowed pretty free play with the result that he 
pocketed a pair of opera glass holders. He was arrested by De- 
tective Sergeant Nugent. Some three years ago he served a 
sentence in jail for a similar offence. 

E. L. Bliss, who was for eight years with the Gorham Manu- 
facturing Company, has resigned his position and will go on the 
road for S. M. Lewis, making on!y the larger cities in the L'nlted 
States and Canada. 

There were received at the port of New York during the week 
ending May 3, 334 packages of jewelry and kindred goods valued 
at $379,259, while for the week ending April 29, 735 packages of 
jewelry and kindred goods were shipped from this port. 

The Gorham Manufacturing Company is turning out a fine 
and attractive line of silver novelties, which arc attracting much 
attention in the window of the company's Maiden Lane store. 

The offices and showrooms of C. Rogers & Bros., of Mcriden, 
Conn., and the Roger Silver Plate Company, of Danbury, Conn., 
are fast nearing completion at No. 3 Maiden Lane. Mr. H. J. 
Cuthbert is New York manager for the C. Rogers & Bros., and 
Mr. Cephas P. Rogers, Jr., New York manager of Rogers Silver 
Plate Company. 

John Gwehr, manager for John W. Johnson, 22 John street, is 
very much pleased over the advent of a pair of twins. 

Capron & Co. have moved their New ^)fork office from 176 
Broaday to the Gill building, 9, 11 and 13 ^faiden Lane, occupy- 
ing rooms 1306 on the thirteenth floor. 



The 



Mercantile National Bank 

OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK, 

BROADWAY AND DEY STREET. 

Solicits Accounts from the Jewelry Trade. 

Digitized by VnOOQ iC 



May 10, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



591 



''He IVho Is Satisfied Is PVell Paidr--Sh2ktsipt2iXQ, 

PRICES WE PAY: 



OLD SILVER 50 cts. per oz. 

OLD GOLD, 8K 32 cts. per dwt. 

•« lOK 40 cts. per dwt. 

12K 48 cts. per d^vrt. 



OLD GOLD, 14K 56cts. perdwt. 

" 18K 73 cts. per dwt. 

PLATED SCRAPS 30 to 35 cts. per oz. 



"If our classification should not prove satisfactory, we will return consignment intact and pay all charges." 

"RettUTis for sweepings made within three to five days of receipt." 

"WE HAVE satisfied hundreds of others and know we can satisfy you." 

Send us your old Gold and Silver whether the quantity be little or great and we know you will be pleased. 




TESTIMONIALS FROM A TEW OF THE SATISFIED ONES: 



Worthington. Minn.. March 13. 18W. 
GOLDSMITH BROS.. Cbiciigo. lU. 

Gentlemen: Yours for check. I2B.96. recelTed and the 
amount is satisfacUnT. Thanking you for your prompt- 
nea and sQuara dealing I remain 
Very respectfully. 

GEO. E. CUNNINOHAIL . 

Palatka. Fla.. March 14. UW. 
GOLDSMITH BBO&. Chicago. 111. 

Gentlemen: Yours to hand this a. m., including 
eheck for 11.45 for the gold scrape. It is perfecUy < 
satisfactory to me. Thanking you | 

I am, as erer, 

G. O. EST£8. 

Sheridan. Wya, February 25. 188B. 
GOLDSMITH BROS.. Chicago. 111. 

Gentlemen: Yours of the 23rd inst to hand and 
with endosurt of check for I2L80, which is rery satis- 
factory for the old gold sent in. Thanks. 

Yours Tery truly, 

W. P. WATERS. 

Brigham City. Utah. Jan. 17. 1899. 
GOLDSMITH BRO&. Chicago. lU. 

GenUemen: Your check for 112.02 to hand. ThU is 
more than I expected to get for the old silver I sent. 
Thank yon rery much. 

Yours truly. 

J. JOHANBEN. 

MuscaUne. la.. April 19. 1899. 
GOLDSMITH BROS.. Chicago. lU. 

GenUemen: Your check for 938.98 Uxt old gold and 
• ■flTer receiTed and O. K. 

F. KOECKERITZ. 

Fredericksburg. Ya.. April 11. 1899. 
GOLDSMITH BR0&. Chicago. IlL 

GenUemen: A short time ago I sent yon some 
gold scraps, which yon bought of me. I was Tery 
mndi gratifled at your square dealing, as I had be%ti 
badly biUen by another dealer some time prior to 
mine wito yon. and if I have any more transacUons 
of Uie kind. I hope to deal with you again. 
Yours truly, etc.. 

J. F. THOMPSON. 



BelTidere. IlL. March 6. 1889. 
GOLDSMITH BROS.. Chicago. lU. 

Gentlemen: Your letter and check receiTed. You 
have sent me more than what I expected for the cases. 
Respectfully yours. 

A. VOEGELL 

Hancock. Mich.. March 27. 1899. 
GOLDSMITH BROa. Chicago, lU. 

Gentlemen: Check received and found O. K. Ac- 
cept thanks for your promptness; you are certainly the 
promptest people I ever dealt with. 

Yours very tnily, 

O. BORREBEN. 

Great Rend. Kas.. AprU 29. 1899. 
GOLDSMITH BROS.. Chicago. lU. 

Gentlemen: Your check for old gold and silver Is all 
satisfactory. 

Yours truly, 

W. D. GOULD & CO. 

Dubuque. la.. April 19. 1899. 
GOLDSMITH BROS.. Chicago, 111. 

Gentlemen: Check of |3L06 is entirely satisfactory 
for old gold. 

W. W. WORMOOU. 

Decatur. 111.. April 6. 1899. 
GOLDSMITH BROS., Chicago. 111. 

Gentlemen: We accept your estimate on old gold 
case, and with many thanks we remain 
Sincerely yours. 

J. L. PEAKE & BON. 

Hawarden. la.. April 4. 1899. I 
GOLDSMITH BROa, Chicago, 111. 

Gentlemen: Yours containing draft received to-day. 
Your estimate is entirely satisfactory. 

Respectfully, 

C. B. GRAVES. 

Pierre. 8. D.. AprU 11. 1899. 
GOLDSMITH BROa. Chicago, 01. 

Gentlemen: Your check for old gold and silver at 
hand very satisfactory. Please accept thaolks for your 
promptness. Very respectfully. 

AD. LINDQU18T. 



Detroit. Mich.. April 12. 1899. 
GOLDSMITH BROS.. Chicago. IlL 

Gentlemen: Received check all O. K. Anything in 
the future I have will send you. 

Yours truly. 

A. B. RAMY. 

Eustis. Fla.. April 10. 1899. 
GOLDSMITH BROS., Chicago, IlL 

Gentlemen : Check for |19.88 at hand. Very satis- 
factory and thanks. Very respectfully. 

GEO. W. CHURCH. 

AlexandrU. Ya.. April 10. 1899. 
GOLDSMITH BROS.. Chicago. HI. 

Gentlemen: We are in receipt of yours of 7th inst 
and find same entirely satisfactory. 
Respectfully, 

R. C. ACTON ft BON. 

Eufaula. Ala.. March 15. 1899. 
GOLDSMITH BROS.. Chicago. 111. 

Gentlemen: Your check for |7.46 for old gold and 
silver is entirely satisfactory— in fact it was more than 
I expected to get Yours truly. 

J. B. SHELLEY. 

Lanrenceville. Va.. Fbb. 27. 1899. 
GOLDSMITH BRO&. Chicago, m. 

Gentlemen: Yours with che<^ to hand; same per- 
fectly satisfactory. Yours truly. 

JAMBS REUBEN. 

Anamoea. la., March 18, 1899. 
GOLDSMITH BROS.. Chicago. IlL 

Gentlemen: I accept your offer for old gold. 110.75. 
which was more than I thought you would allow, and 
oblige. Yours respectfully. 

HARRY CLARKE. 

Helena. Mont. March 24. 1899. 
GOLDSMITH BROa. Chicago. lU. 

Gentlemen: Your check for $15.00 came to hand 
this a. m. and I am satisfied with amount, thanking 
you again for your promptness. 

I remain reepectfulLv. 

A. C. DORNEH. 




GOLDSMITH BROS., 

Sweep Smelters, Refiners and Assayers, 

Office: 63 WASHINGTON ST. 





Works, Cor. 58th and THROOP STS., 




Digitized by ^OOQ IC 



592 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



May lo. 1 8^ 



G. H. & F. L. Crawford, attorneys to the New York Jewelers* 
Board of Trade, have moved from 229 Broadway to y; Wall 
street, New York. ^ 

M. Jaffe, optidian, has moved from 107 Canal street to 2096 
Third avenue, New York. 

The following notice has been sent out to the members of 
the New York City Optical Society: 

The Optical Society of the City of New York will hold their May meet- 
ing at the Fifth Avenue^ Hotel Wednesday, May 10, at 8 p. m. Prof. Win. 
Fox, on "Refraction," 8:30 to 9:j[o; L. L. Ferguson, on 'Skiascopy," 9:30 
to 10:30. Considerable business is to be transacted and your presence is 
imperatively requested. P. A. DILWORTH, Secretary. 

L. L. FERGUSON. President. 

Julius A. Lebkuecher, ot the firm of Krenentz & Co., form- 
erly Mayor of Newark, has been selected to take charge of the 
affairs of the Newark Post Office until a successor is appointed 
to Postmaster David Bragaw, who died on Wednesday. 

William Barthman, of Maiden Lane and Broadway, New York 
City, who is across the water buying jewels, is now at JIamburg. 
A consignment of goods was received from him Tuesday. 

Reed & Barton, who are now at 8 Maiden Lane, will move to 
No. 6 on the same street the last of the week. 

C. E. Breckenridge, manager of the International Silver Com- 
pany's Maiden Lane store in New York City, went over to 
Meriden, Conn., the company's executive headquarters, Wednes- 
day, on business. He will return the latter part of the week. 

Drunk With a Load of Jewelry.— Barnet Emerich, 55 years 
old, of 120 East Foist street, was locked up in the Old Slip sta- 
tion, on Saturday, on the charge of intoxication. He was found 
at Wall and Pearl streets unable to take care of himself. 

When searched at the station house by Policeman Seaton, 
who made the arrest, there were found in his pockets two gold 
collar buttons, $2.25 in change, 14 gold rings, two gold watches, 
two diamond studs; one scarf pin, one pair of gold cuflf buttons, 
one breast pin and chain, and one pair of diamond earrings. 
It is said that Emerich is a wholesale jeweler. 

Consolidation of the Trade Associations. — ^The effort 
being mpdc to consolidate the New York Jewelers* Association 
and the Jewelers* Board of Trade will no doubt meet with suc- 
cess early in October, so a prominent gentleman connected 
with the deal, stated Monday. The two committees appointed 
by the two organizations are working together harmonously, 
but owing to the vast business interests affected in the deal the 
arrangements will take time. 

Ch.\nges in the F. Kroeber Clock Co.— The affairs of the 
F. Kroeber Clock Company, of 260 Broadway, manufacturers and 
impoiters o* clocks anJ fancy wares, are in the hands of the 
company's president and treasurer, Florence Kroeber, who has 
been appointed receiver at the request of the members of the 
company. The company went into voluntary liquidation May 
4th and Judge Scott appointed Florence Kroeber receiver, and 
John Proctor Clark was appointed referee. Mr. Florence 
Krober, when seen Monday evening, stated that the condition 
of the affairs of the company had been greatly misrepresented. 
"We are not insolvent by any means," he stated, "and are in 
condition to pay two and one-half for one. The fact about the 
matter is I desire to gain full control of the business. I now 
own $80,000 of the stock and other parties $20,000, 'and just as 
soon as the company can be Hquidated I will open up for busi- 
ness in the old stand with the same force of employes, no 
changes being made whatever, except in the ownership." 

The company's finances are about in this condition: Local 
creditors, $30,000; foreign creditors, $72,000; assets, $108,000. 
Receiver Kroeber is arranging a statement, in regard to the 
company*s finances, for the trade and will have it out the mid- 
dle of the week. In the meantime the business is being carried 
on as if nothing had happened, by the receiver. 



AT THE HOTELS. 

Recent anivali are potted daily in the ottce of " Tbe Jewelera Rerlew," 
wbere the bulletint can be inspected by members of the trade. 

E. Harris, of Washington, at Park Avenue Hotel ; F. G. Sutor, 
of Philadelphia, at St. Denis; J. Blum, of Galveston, at the 
Albert. 

H. Keck, Cincinnati, Astor; J. F. Ellis, Toronto, Manhattan; 
G. A. Reidpath, Boston, Imperial; jewelry buyer for Pitts, Kim- 
ball Company; Otto Yoimg, Chicago, Holland; Justin Kennedy, 
Rochester, Broadway Central; J. H. Crosby, Jr., Jacksonville, 
Fla.. Murray Hill; E. Swigart, Cincinnati, Astor; N. W. Bell, 
Ogdensburg, Empire; G. M. Sawtell, Washington, D. C. Im- 
perial; A.. Goodman, New Haven, Imperial; F. M. Justice, Phila- 
delphia; Murray Hill; Miss S. Ford, Washington, D. C, Imper- 



ial, jewelry buyer for A. Lisncr; William B. Durgin, Concord, 
Holland, of Willianh'H. l>Urghi Company. 

BUFFALO - 

William U. Watson, dealer in watches and jewelry, has re- 
moved from No. 457 Main street to No 523 Main street. 
C. J. Fisher has opened a watch and jewelry store at No. 251 
i Main street, in the old Glenny Building. 

An interesting suit was begun in the Niagara County Court, 
Wednesday. Dr. Lucien Howe, a well known optician of Buf- 
falo, brought suit against James E. Curtis and others, capitalists 
of Eastern Pennsylvania, representing a syndicate owning prop- 
erty in this city on which mortgage foreclosure proceedings have 
been b^gun. The claim is made that a clause in the deed ot 
purchase in which the syndicate assumed the mortgage binds 
it to assume any loss which may result from foreclosure. The 
defendant claims that it is fraudulently attempted to hold them 
lialTle. 

PHILADELPHIA 

William P. Newhall, and William E. Wood have formed a 
co-partnership to conduct the business of manufacturing silver- 
smiths at 618 Chestnut street. The new firm will be known 
as the Peter L. Krider Company. 

Through worrying over her son John, a youth of 20 years, 
who was sent to prison last week in default of bail to await 
trial for the alleged larceny of silver trinkets from Wanamakcr*s 
jewelry department, Mrs. Lizzie Kelly became violently insane 
and had to removed to the Philadelphia hospital. 

The L. A. Scherr & Co., dealers in jewelry, supplies and find- 
ings, at 726 Chestnut street, is now a firm of the past, the stock 
and fixtures having been sold out at auction last week in pur- 
suance of the proceedings in bankruptcy instituted some time 
ago. The sale was largely attended and generally believed to 
have been successful, but a statement can not be obtained until 
some time during this week. This sale and the Mead & Rob- 
bins' sale had a bad eflfect on the retail trade during the week 
and the retailers are glad it is over. M. Sickle & Son, of 618 
Chestnut street, bought the four large safes at the Scherr sale 
and will probably occupy the store, if satisfactory arrangements 
concerning the leases of both properties can be made. Sickles 
have just finished stock taking and are in a position to move 
if the other difficulty can be overcome. 

Benjamin Giescom, salesman for Bippart & Co., is receiving 
the condolence of the trade for the loss of his mother, who died 
last week. J. M. Aoflfer, jeweler, of Kane, Pcnn., suffered a 
similar misfortune also. 

W. Linker, representative for Gail & Walt, manufacturing sil- 
versmiths, 730 Sansom street, left the city for a trip down east 
on Monday. 

Stop-over Privileges. — An important concession has been 
gained by the Trades League of this city in having the railroad 
companies allow a ten-day stop-over privilege on all first-class 
limited tickets on west and south-bound trains. This privilcfi:e 
extends to all travelers on trains of the Trunk Line Association, 
from points west of Pittsburg and south of Washington, aid 
including these cities. Since 1891 a similar priviliege has been 
in force on east and north-bound trains from these cities. The 
Pennsylvania, Baltimore & Ohio and Philadelphia & Reading 
companies have instructed their conductors to ask all passengers 
if they intend to stop over at Philadelphia, and if so, endorse 
their tickets with dates and signatures. The tickets are to be 
deposited with the passenger agents immediately after arrival in 
Philadelphia. 

Vagaries of the City Hall Clock. — Philadelphians are be- 
ginning to believe they have bought a gold brick in the shape ctl 
the tower clock that is alleged to give the correct time from an 
elevation of 360 feet over the City Hall. For some time the 
hands of this clock have behaved badly and caused people to 
miss trains as well as other inconveniences. The clock is guar- 
anteed for a year and the contract calls for an employe of the 
company to superintend the working of the clock for that period. 
The vagaries of the clock were first accounted for by the cold 
and sleet, then the heat caused expansion, and now the spring': 
and halts need replacing and tightening. The last freak of the 
time recorder was in showing the hour fifteen minutes later on 
the northern dial than the correct time as recorded on the south 
and west dial. in the morning. Early in the afternoon the east- 
ern dial was ten minutes behind, and about 4:30 of the afternoon 
in question the hands on this dial came to a standstill, and on 
the other were having a go-as-you-please chase. As is usual 
when these eccentricities occur the attendant was not at his post 
and the cFock ran wild until he was hunted up. 



Digitized by VjjOOQLC 



May 10, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



593 



s 



TERN BROS. & CO. 



CUTT ERS A ND 
mPORTERSOP 



DIAMONDS 



GnttinK Wbcktt f40-f46 Wat f4th SImiI 
Londoo Offices 29 EI7 Pbee 



Comet John and Nassau Streets 
NEW YORK 



VV. H. Long, jeweler, of 1627 South street, Philadelphia, has 
added an optical department to hk store. 

An optical parlor, with all modern appliances, has been fitted 
up by C. B. Parker, in conjunction with his jewelry store at 
Norristown, Pa. 

J. V. Yclzcrhouse, manufacturing optician, of Erie, Pa., is 
contemplating a trip abroad for the next three months and will 
probably sail within the next two weeks. 

H. E. Hermann & Co., of Williamsport, Pa., have opened a 
fine optical store. 

J. A. Lynch and A. B. Marsden. salesmen for D. V. Brown, 
manufacturing optician, of Philadelphia, have started on their 
summer trips. Mr. Lynch will take in the South and South- 
west, and Mr. Marsden will travel through Western Pennsyl- 
vania, New York and Ohio. 

Joseph T. Bailey and C. Clement Weaver, of the Bailey, Banks 
& Biddle Co., sailed for Europe on the St. Louis last week. 
They will join Samuel Jacquett, of their house, who is already 
abroad in the interests of the firm. W. P. Sachett, of Wana- 
niaker's jewelry department, also sailed on the St. Louis. 

No improvement is reported in the condition of L. H. Becker, 
jeweler, of 1431 South Seventh street, who is seriously ill with 
typhoid pneumonia. 

William G. Earle and wife entertained a party of friends at a 
planked ghad dinner at Essington last Tuesday. With Mr. and 
Mrs. Earle were Mr. and Mrs. William J. Bruchl, Mr. and Mrs. 
Irving Moore and S. P. White. 

More than 100 guests and members of the Jewelers* Club par- 
took of the planked shad dinner of the club, at Gloucester, on 
Tuesday, May 9. Garnished with new potatoes, asparagus, green 
peas and salad, with lots of liquids, the toothsome fish was 
never more tempting, nor more heartily enjoyed. A special 
boat conveyed the guests down the Delaware river to the pa- 
vilion, where the spread was served, the ride serving to sharpen 
the appetites of all on board and putting them on edge to enjoy 
the exquisitely cooked delicacy. The fish served were taken 
from the river during the day and cooked within an hour of the 
party's arrival. Among the guests were representatives of the 
trade from all parts of the East, and they joined in an unanimous 
vote of thanks to the club for its generous hospitality. President 
Warner Hutchins, the officers and board of directors of the 
club, formed the committee of management. 

Otto Winnick, engraver for the trade, at 706 Chestnut street, 
has been engaged by a local firm of costumers to superintend 
the Historical Parade of the Peace Jubilee ceremonies to be 
held in Washington, D. C, May 25th. Mr. Winnich, whose 
originality in designing has been displayed on more than one 
occasion, has made several striking creations for the display, il- 
lustrative of the arts, sciences and industries of this country and 
our colonies. 

D. V. Brown, the manufacturing optician, of 738-42 Sansom 
street, has retiu-ned from a business trip to Ashcville, N. C. 

Among the out-of-town jewelers in Philadelphia this week 
were: 

G. W. Beck and Robert Turner, of Vineland, N. J. : George A. Bowers, 
of Bridgeton, N. J. ; T. A. Fiedler, of Milton, Pa. ; J. D. Landis, of Coates- 
ville, Pa.; Howard Fitzsimmons, of Westchester, Pa., and L. C. Reisner, 
of Lancaster. 

Ross Quicksall, formerly watchmaker for John Smedley, has 
opened up a branch for himself at 706 Chestnut street and is 
prepared to do all kinds of first-class work for the trade. 

C. S. Stockwell, formerly silverware buyer for Sharpless Bros., 
is now with Wanamaker, in the house-furnishing department. 

While there is a general apathy in the trade for special work. 
Joseph H. Deschamps, maker of fine jewelry and mountings, is 



rushed with orders, and says he is as busy now as he was in 
December. 

Silver Service for the "Kentucky."— J. E. Caldwell & Co., 
of 902 Chestnut street, were the successful competitors for the 
contract to furnish the silver service to be presented the officers 
of the battleship Kentucky, by the citizens of that State. This 
firm has turned out several magnificent presentation services re- 
cently, among them being the outfit for the battleship Iowa, the 
handsome jeweled sword for Rear Admiral Schley and the silver 
service for the City Troops, presented by parents and kinsmen of 
the troopers. In the competition for the contract were eight 
other firms, from New York, Providence and Louisville. 

PITTSBURG 

Rodney Pierce left Monday for a six weeks business trip 
through the Eastern part of the State and the Shenandoah 
Valley. 

A. Kingsbacher is in Chicago looking after the business in- 
terests of his firm in that city. 

Edward Biggs has been confined to his home for the past two 
weeks with a severe attack of the rheumatism. 

W. J. Johnston has improved the appearance of his windows 
by the addition of some new silver signs. 

Klein, Kraus & Co. have found their business so much in- 
creased that it was necessary to add a new safe. They report 
their shop full of work and an inability to procure some good 
workmen to help them out. 

John M. Roberts leaves in a week or ten days after stock tak- 
ing, for a short vacation at Cambridge Springs. 

Word has been received here that James R. Reed has set sail 
from Japan, where he has been for the past four months for a 
vacation and expects to arrive home in about two weeks. 

Kingsbacher Bros, have found it necessary to add a new trav- 
eling man to their force in order to take care of their trade. They 
have engaged W. H. Webber, who was for many years with a 
prominent Chicago house. 

Gus Spies will remove during the month from Charleroi to 
Monongahela City, Pa. 

A. Korublnm, Theodore Kaufmann, Sol Cerf and John M. 
Roberts were visitors in New York last week. 

Samuel Weinhaus is selling at auction the only jewelry store 
in Jeflferson, O. The proprietor will discontinue the business. 

John Young, of Ohio street, Allegheny, is selling out his^ 
stock at auction to quit business.- 

On May i Samuel Weinhaus took in to the firm, his brother, 
Benjamin C. Weinhaus. Hereafter they will be known as the 
Weinhaus Bargain House, continuing in the jobbing business 
and general jewelers' auctioneers. 

Maurice Baer, of the Attleboro Manufacturing Company, re- 
turned to Providence, R. I., after visiting his parents here foT a 
few days. 

William E. Stieren has just added to his optical department a 
Fay's optometer and are using with great success a new device, 
known as Prosser's Muscle Test, for correcting muscular insuf- 
ficiency in the eye. Mr. Prosser, the inventor of this new in- 
strument is an employe of Mr. Stieren's, and since devoting his 
entire time to optics has made some useful inventions. 

George Sellser, an employee of Jeweler Wingerter, of Akron, 
O., is missing, also jewelery worth $500 is missing. As soon as 
his absence was discovered the matter was referred to the police 
department who have since found out that Sellser is wanted at 
Waterbury, Mass., for stealing Government bonds. He secured 
from a local capitalist a loan of $600 on a $1,000 bond. 



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Henry Terheyden Acquitted. — Henry Terheyden, a very 
prominent jeweler, was acquitted in Criminal Court, last week, 
of having received stolen goods. It was alleged that he had 
purchased a watch from a certain Rebecca Krochner, a young 
girl, for $17 when the value far exceeded that amount. It later 
developed that the girl had stolen the watch from W. S. Foster. 
When the case was tried the commonwealth showed that the girl 
had first taken the watch to J. M. Schaeflfer, who refused to buy 
it, explaining to her, after giving the weight and value, that he 
could not use it and referred her to Mr. Terheyden, who would 
buy it as he was a manufacturer. Mr. Schaeflfer gave the girl his 
card, which she took with her and showed to Mr. Terheyden, 
telling him that Mr. Schaeflfer had sent her to him. Mr. Ter- 
heyden, thinking it all right, the girl having told such a plausible 
story, bought the goods paying full value for them. No wit- 
ness were called and the jury acquitted him, placing the costs of 
the case on the county. 

WASHINGTON 

Michael J. Russell Acquitted. — Michael J. Russell, of New 
York City, who was arrested last March on the charge of having 
stolen a pair of diamond earrings and a diamond horseshoe pin 
from the store of Salvatorc Desio, 1012 F street, northwest, was 
acquitted by a jury in Criminal Court No. i on Friday afternoon, 
May 5. As soon as the announcement was made Assistant Dis- 
trict Attorney Shillington, who represented the Government, 
stated to the court that a requisition had been received by Chief 
Justice Bingham, of the Supreme Court of the District, from the 
Governor of Maryland, asking that Russell be turned over to an 
oflftcer from that State, as he was wanted in Baltimore to answer 
a charge of larceny, being accused of being a party to the rob- 
bery of jewelry from the store of A. B. Sadler the morning of the 
day the Desio theft was alleged to have been committed. By di- 
rection of Chief Justice Bingham, of the Supreme Court, of the 
District of Columbia, Michael J. Russell was, on Monday, turned 
over to Detective Gait, of Baltimore, on a requisition from the 
Governor of Maryland. 

BALTIMORE 

The silversmith firm of Jacobs & Jenkins, North Charles 
street, have just completed a handsome cut glass punch bowl, 
with a silver rim and a silver ladle accompanying it, which is 
to be presented by the members of the Second Branch City 
Council of Baltimore to the president of that branch, Mr. Robert 
L. Stevens. The above firm made the cup that was presented to 
Captain Coghlan, of the Raleigh, in New York. 

J. Stuart MacDonald, of the well-known jewelry firm J. S. 
McDonald & Co., was on the committee that invited President 
McKinley to attend the Peace Jubilee to be held in this city in a 
few weeks. Arrivals in town: Mr. Julius Lyons, of New York; 
Mr. Bernheim, of Goldsmith & Co.; Mr. Boles, of I. Rosenfeld. 

The firm of Kann & Sons Manufacturing Company, estab- 
lished over a quarter of a century, have changed style of firm as 
above. They have been for the past 14 years at 114 North How- 
ard street, and. recently purchased building 303 West Lexing- 



ton street, and equipped same with improved machinery for the 
manufacturing of silver-plated ware and lately have added a full 
line of jewelery, watches and diamonds, and they tnake a spe- 
cialty of replating and repairing. 

Henry Castelberg, proprietor of Pioneer Jewelry Company, 
Eutaw and Lexington streets, returned to the city after spending 
a few weeks vacation with his family in Atlantic City. 

A. Gertz, formerly watchmaker for Hennegen, Bates & Co., 
will shortly open a jewelery store on West Baltimore street, 
near Poppleton street. 

John Mealey, formerly of Hennegen, Bates & Co., has opened 
a new store on South Charles, near Baltimore street, with a full 
line of jewelry and watches. His specialty will be importing dia- 
monds. 

George Walters, now located on North Howard street, will 
open 'a model jewelry store at 24 West Lexington street aboui 
June I. 

Rumors are afloat that a corporation comprising Philadelphia 
jewelers will shortly open a mammoth store on West Lexington 
street. Their main object being to sell cheaper and freeze out 
smaller stores here. 

TRENTON 

Beginning on Saturday all the departments of the Trenton 
Watch factory on Monmouth street, will enjoy a Saturday half- 
holiday, each week, at last during the summer. Workmen are 
now engaged in painting the exterior of the watch factory. 

Albert F. R. Lutze, the jeweler of No. 133 South Broad street, 
is now doing quite an extensive optical business. He is adver- 
tising liberally in the local papers, and is building up a large 
trade for himself, as a scientific optician. 

Daniel HoflF, the Bordentown jeweler, has become an ardent 
fisherman, and last week started in to fish for shad down the 
Delaware River. Mr. HoflF is quite fond of salt shad, and he 
says he means to salt down at least a hundred for next winter's 
use. 

Thieves raided the house of Frank Bell, ex-city treasurer, of 
Philadelphia, at Bristol, Pa., near here, on Friday night. From 
the dining room sideboard $200 worth of silver was taken, but 
the plated ware was not disturbed. The house adjoining Mr. 
Beirs and owned by Mrs. H. Beatty, was also entered on the 
same evening and silverware valued at $150, including some fine 
old pieces which had been in the family a long time, were stolen. 

Morris May, formerly a Trenton jeweler, but now in the dia- 
mond business in New York, has been appointed one of the 
directors in the recently consolidated Peoples' and Trenton Gas 
Light Company. 



An interesting discovery from a geological view point has 
latterly been made in the Witries Hoek Mountains, in Natal 

On the summit of an extinct volcano near the edge of a 
lake filling the former crater soundings have established the 
presence of a sand layer containing small diamonds. 

It would be instructive to know whether these diamonds were 
there accidentally or whether it is a diamond field. 




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! HENRY McKINNIE. 



REPAIRING AMERICAN WATCHES. 



A prize essay on the repair of all kinds of American watches as car- 
ried on by the best watchmakers of the present day, 

S2C5o*9 post free, from 

THE JEWELERS REVIEW, 

170 Broadway, New York. 



Digitized by VnOOQ iC 



May 10, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



595 



NEV ENGLAND NEVS. 

FROM OUR SPBCIAI. CORRBSPONDRNTS. 

Bnsinesii'Axid personal news interestini; to the trade from the States under 
tlie above heading: will be found in these columns. We have a special stalf of 
correspondents in an the important centers, but are always £lad to receive 
from our readers items of news which they consider of general interest to 
members of the trade. Such notes should reach this office on Monday mondng. 

BOSTON. 

Twenty-two jewelry jobbers and opticians signed the agree- 
ment to close at 5 o'clock week days and at i o'clock on Satur- 
days. The agreement went into effect the first day of May 
and will continue until October. 

The past week was one of the dullest that the trade has known 
in a year. There has been hardly anything doing in any line of 
the trade and buyers have been few and far between. Among the 
retailers noticed in the Hub during the week were the following 
named: 

J. F. Safford, Farmington, N. H.; George A. Foye, George A. Foye* & 
Son, Athol: J. L. Hicks. Fall River; Fred. Davis. L. Kimball & Son, 
Haverhill; William S. Reynolds, Dover. N. H.; W. A. England, Worces- 
ter; H. Harry Kingsley, Fairhaven, Vt.; J. J. Cluin. Lowell: J. J. Hen- 
nessey, Milford; A. W. Gunnison, Hudson: W. H. Heath, South Brain- 
tree; C. G. Sheldon, Exeter, N. H.; F. S. Carr, Springfield; S. C. Hewitt, 
Salem; T. R. Gushing, Rockland; A. D. Wilour, Weymouth; H. S. Hewett, 
Brockton. 

The date for the annual meeting of the New England Asso- 
ciation of Opticians has been set one week later than was at first 
appointed and will be held at Young's Hotel on Tuesday even- 
ing. May 23. A banquet will be served at the conclusion of the 
business meeting. The original date was found to be inconveni- 
ent to a majority of the members and it was thought better to 
put it off. 

The May meeting of the Boston Jewelers' Club will take place 
at Young's Hotel, Tuesday evening, May 8. It will be held at 
Youngfs Hotel and the business meeting has been called for 8 
o'clock. There is no business of importance on the calendar 
and a social evening about the banquet tables will be enjoyed 
by those in attendance. 

W. F. Newhall, the well-known jeweler of Lynn, left on Sat- 
urday for a trip to Norfolk, Va. 

Edward S. Roberts, of the optical department of D. C. Perci- 
val & Co., leaves that firm on- the ist of June to take charge of 
the Baboosic House, Baboosic Lake, Amherst, N. H. The 
best wishes of his many friends will go with him in his new 
venture. 

The Watch Consolidation. — The plan to consolidate the 
United States and Columbia Watch Companies and the Chelsea 
Clock Company, is nearing consummation. The proposed con- 
solidation will be known as the Consolidated Watch and Clock 
Company. It will be incorporated under New Jersey laws with a 
capital of $2,000,000, to be increased later to $5,000,000, equally 
divided into common and preferred. It will continue the manu- 
facture of high grade Howard watches and clocks. 

Within 60 days it is anticipated the consolidated company will 
have sufficiently arranged details to be in complete operation. 
Charles H. Pearson, owner of the Chelsea Qock Company, will 
be prominently identified with the new company. 

THE ATTLEBOROS 

Everything points to Attleboro gaining a new jewelry firm. 
The firm of Freeman, Daughaday & Co., of Chartley, Mass., are 
strongly considering the advisability of moving their entire 
business to this town. For several days past the firm has been 
trying to secure as quarters the third floor of the factory being 
erected in town by David E. Makepeace. Freeman, Daughaday 
& Co., are a progressive firm and will make an excellent addi- 
tion to the jewelry trade of this town. 

A representative of Dingwall & Co., of Winnipeg, Manitoba, 
was in town last week placing large orders among several of the 
local houses. '^ 

Saturday morning Deputy Sheriff Read served a notice of two 
suits against W. F. Herring & Co., and placed a keeper in the 
factory. All work has been stopped pending a settlement. 

Franklin S. Cooley, of the Bureau of Information of the Phila- 
delphia Commercial Museum, was in town last week in the inter- 
ests of the exposition to be held in Philadelphia Sept. 14 to Nov. 
30. Mr. Cooley is endeavoring to secure exhibits from the At- 
tleboro jewelry manufacturers and the prospects are that several 
of the larger firms will send exhibits more or less large. 

Sidney O. Bigney, of S. O. Bigney & Co., Providence, who is 
to erect a large factory for jewelry purposes in this town, has de- 
cided on the general plan for his building. It will be in the 
shape of a double square with an open court in front and will be 
four stories in height. It will be fitted with all the most modern 



improvements and when completed, it is believed that it will be 
the largest and best factory in New England used for the manu- 
facture of jewelry. It will be large enough to accommodate not 
only Mr. Bigney's business but also five other firms. Mr. Big- 
ney, in conversation with a representative bf the Review 'last 
week, stated that he intended to commence work on the building 
immediately. He said that it would be large enough to com- 
pletely cover the lot of land which he has purchased for a loca- 
tion, 153 by 2C0 feet. 

Elmer E. Culver, of MacDonald & Culver, had a thrilling ex- 
perience one day last week. While driving out in the country 
with his wife, a man attempted to hold him up. Fortunately the 
attempt did not succeed Mr. Culver whipping up his horse es- 
caping. 

G. H. French, of Riley, French & Heflfron, has returned from 
an extended trip through the West. 

E. E. Rhodes, of the Novelty Manufacturing Company, is 
seriously ill. 

John E. Tweedy, of Cheever, Tweedy & Co., has gone to 
New York in the interests of his firm. 

James E. Blake, of the James E. Blake Company, has recently 
purchased a fine estate in town, which he proposes to greatly 
improve. Mr. Blake is fast becoming one of the largest real 
estate owners in town. 

A new boiler was installed in the factory of A. A. Bushee & 
Co., last week. 

R. N. Hirschfield of Kansas City, formerly a jeweler in 
Leavenworth, visited many of the local firms last week. 

Louis J. Lamb, of C. H. Allen & Co., has been chosen super- 
intendent of the local Universalist Sunday school for the ensuing 
year. 

Walter E. Claflin, of George L. Claflin & Co., underwent an 
operation for appendicitis last week. He has nearly recovered 
from the effects of it. 

Cards have been issued for the marriage of William H. Blake, 
of the James E. Blake Company, to Miss Florence A. Sweet, of 
this town. May 17. 

PROVIDENCE. 

Joseph Catlow, of the firm of Catlow Bros., manufacturers of 
jiovelties at 185 Eddy street, is able to be out after a week's ill- 
ness. 

The time is approaching for the annual ball game between the 
salesmen of the Providence and Attleboro firms, and this year it 
is thought that the game will be played at Attleboro instead of 
on the day of the salesmen's outing, the change giving the play- 
ers an opportunity to play a full game which cannot be done at 
an outing where there are so many other games to be played. 

Next week the salesmen with the local manufacturers will 
begin to leave for the West with lines of fall goods. Most of the 
salesmen are confident that they will meet with good success on 
this trip and anticipating a big demand for goods the manufac- 
turers in all lines have prepared attractive sample lines which 
will be sure to catch the eyes of the buyers of the Western 
houses. 

Mr. Neisser, of Milwaukee, Wis., has been at the Narragansett 
Hotel for the past few days buying from the Providence manu- 
fact ur ^ ro i ■ -* -* 

C. W. Latrttrbach, of Philadelphia, was at the rooms of the 
Manufacturing Jewelers'* Salesmen's Association, J^onday, and 
as a result of his visit local manufacturers dfspbsed of quite a 
good amount of jewelry. Mr. Lauterbach is buying a sample 
line preparatory to going into the jobbing business. 

D. F. Costigan has removed from his old location on Eddy 
street to larger and better quarters at the corner of Eddy and 
Clifford streets. 

Gus Strandberg, one of the popular salesmen, is able to be 
out now after having been confined to the house by a sprained 
knee. 

On Friday evening there will be a business meeting of the 
Manufacturing Jewelers' Salesmen's Association to be followed 
by a "smoker." The committee in charge, Messrs. W. L. 
Brewer and F. D. White, have arranged an interesting pro- 
gramme of entertainment. 

Saturday the tools and machinery in the shop of E. B. Thorn- 
ton & Co., insolvents, were sold at auction by Auctioneer Crow 
ell. The articles were disposed of to different parties, the firm 
of William Loeb & Co. getting a good share of the goods sold. 

W. F. Payson, who has been on the road for P. S. Eddy, 
manufacturer of gents* goods, has severed his connection with 
that house and his place has been taken by Clarence Bates, who 
has had considerable experience in the traveling line. 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



May 10, 1899 



HERE AND THERE 

While Marks & Havens, of Coatesvillc, Ind., were removing 
their stock of jewelry to a i^w location last week, a package of 
si||U, powder, wh^ had been placed in the store as a guard 
against burglars, exploded severely injuring Mr. Havens. 

The jewelry store of John Apple at Alden Center, N. Y., 
was destroyed by fire last week. 

Fire caused a $14,000 damage last week, to the stock of drugs, 
groceries and jewelry carried by Packard & Son, Sturgis, Mich.' 

Probably the largest safe that has ever been shipped south of 
the Ohio River is now in place in the new store of the B. H. 
Stief Jewelry Company, Nashville, Tenn. It is 8^ feet broad 
and 4 feet deep, and weighs 30,000 pounds. 

Harry Janowitz, a jeweler of Johnstown, Pa., was arrested last 
week, by the health authorities, on a charge of breaking through 
the quarantine lines, during an epidemic of varioloid. 

On the morning of the ist the store of C. P. Waldron was en- 
tered by burglars, and one of the safes blown open. Fprtunately, 
however, nothing was taken. 

John Alden's jewelry store, at Alden Center, N. Y., was de- 
stroyed by fire last Thursday. 

An auction sale is now being held of the jewelry stock of Mrs. 
G. H. McKelvey, in St. Joseph, Mo. 

W. F. Districh and George Krengel, both well-known jewel- 
ers of La Grange, Tex., have consolidated their stores. 

R. Gomez has announced his determination of discontinuing 
the jewelry business he has been conductihg in Richmond, Tex. 

S. A. Durgin, of Morgan, Minn., has advertised his business 
for sale. 

NEW BUSINESS VENTURES. 

The Lake Smelting Company of Ithaca has filed letters of in 
corporation at Albany, N. Y. Capital, $10,000. Directors: F. 
M. Rites, R. C. Carpenter, Peril C. Rites, Marion Carpenter and 
W. H. Smith, of Ithaca. 

K. D. Westbrook, of Towanda, Pa., has opened a jewelry 
store at Montrose. 

F. C. Boasen has opened up a new stock of jewelry in Chand- 
ler, Okla., having moved the entire business from Perry, in the 
same territory. 

W. A. Draper has opened up a new stock of jewelry, etc., in 
Turon, Kan. 

F. M. Morley, of Daphne, Ala., has completed arrangements 
to open a jewelery store at Citronelle. 

W. E. Hamlin has opened a jewelry store at O'Neill, Neb. 

Steinmetz & Kaylor have opened a jewelry store at Pekin, 111. 

J. Urban Kilmer has opened a jewelry store at Hummelstown, 
Pa. 

John Rosendahl has recently opened a new store at Echo, 
Minn. 

B. S. Ruddick, of Waverly, la., is opening up a new sU>rc 
in that town. 

G. LeRoy Parker has opened a new store at Gladstone, Mich. 
Fred Kaylor and George Steinmetz will open a jewelry store 

in the building adjoining the Steinmetz dry goods store at 
Pekin, 111. 

A new jewelry store has been opened at 314 "East Wilson 
'itreet, Madison, Wis., by O. S. Huseth, recently of Mt. Horeb. 

The Elm 'River Copper Company was incorporated under the 
laws of the State of New Jersey last week. Capital, $1,200,000. 

P. A. Turnell has opened a new jewelry store at Dayton, O. 

H. A. Libbotts has opened a jewelry store at Oskaloosa. 

Harstrom Clock and Novelty Company, of Peekskill; capital, 
$10,000. Directors — Carl G. Harstrom, Jacob R. Decatur, Ed- 
ward E. Young, Ira D. Strang, P. August Peterson, James E. 
Lynch, Edward G. Halsey, Peekskill. 

F. L. Zweck is opening a store at Marshfield, Wis. 

J. A. Steinbach is about to engage in the jewelry and repairing 
business at No. 323^^ Georgia street, Vallejo, Cal. 

Articles of incorporation of the Chinn-Beretta Optical Com- 
pany have been filed. The incorporators are F. C. Chinn, I. A. 
Beretta, C. L. Beretta, J. J. McKenna and A. P. Leach. The 
capital stock is $20,000, of which $4,000 has been subscribed. 
They will have stores in San Francisco, Oakland and Sacra- 
mento for manufacturing and handling optical goods. 



G. Wynne, for many years witli the Julius King Optical Com- 
pany, of New York, is now with the Rodney Pierce Optical 
Company, Pittsburg. He will assume charge of the city trade 
and the office. . , 

A. F. Zimmerman, who has been operating optical parlors at 
1013 Walnut street, Kansas City, for some months, coming from 
Warrensburg, where his son succeeded him in business, has de- 
cided to discontinue the store at this point, and will travel. He 
will remove to Warrensburg again, and make that city his home 
in future. 

The style of the new Cincinnati firm mentioned in the Review* 
last week will be Hugo Lindenberg & Co., and the location will 
be No. 6 Pearl street. Mr. Lindenberg has been for a long time 
associated with Bene, Lindenberg & Co., and in his new venture 
of a business for himself he has the good will of the trade 
at home and outside. 

E. Mercer has succeeded to ^he entire jewelry business of A. 
J. Mercer, Burden, Kan., who died but a few weeks ago. 

Mrs. L. Froinshon has discontinued the jewelry business slie 
has had charge of in Hot Springs, Ark. 

L. E. Sanborn, a jeweler of Cedar Rapids, la., has sold out 
his entire business, and will discontinue, f 

M. A. Lumbard, the wholesale jeweler of Des Moines, la., has 
made a change in his business, and the house is now known as 
the M. A. Lumbard Company. 

R. B. Stevenson has discontinued his jewelery store in Mt. 
Vernon, la., having removed the stock to a new location in 
Cedar Rapids, la. 

R. J. Kewin has sold. out the jewelry business he has been 
conducting in Griswold, la., to E. E. Wilcox. 

The jewelery and stationery firm of Humphrey & Kennedy, 
Ritzville, Wash., has been dissolved. 

Mr. Charles Springle has removed his entire stock of jewelery. 
etc., from Fall River, Kan. 

J. E. Ketchem has sold out his stock of jewelry in Morrilton. 
Ark. 

BUSINESS TROUBLE^S 

J. F. Richards, of Skaguay, who went into bankruptcy, 
has compromised at 25 per cent., and the dividends have all 
been paid. 

A meeting of the creditors of Henry A. Casperfeld. who was 
formerly in the jewelry business at 144 Bowery, New York, 
was held on the 4th at the office of Referee in Bankruptcy George 
C. Holt, of 34 Pine street. New York. The schedules sliowed 
liabilities of $706,386. Fourteen claims, aggregating about 
$350,000, were proved. Mr. Casperfeld was not present, his at- 
torney presenting a physician's certificate that he was too ill 
to appear, and the meeting was adjourned for six weeks. 

William S. Banks, jeweler, of White Plains, N. Y., has .filed a 
petition in bankruptcy, with liabilities $15,734 and assets $6,000, 
consisting of a house and lot at Greenwich, Conn., mortgaged 
for $4,000. and with taxes and interest unpaid of $640. He was 
formerly of Banka & Banks, jewelers, of Greenwich. 

Lafwson Hegler, a retail jeweler in business at Washington 
C. H., Fa)rette County, O., has been declared a bankrupt with 
liabilities of $29,507.72 and assets of $247. 

Charles F. Richards, a jeweler well-known on the Pacific 
coast, and formerly in business in Seattle, Wash., has received a 
discharge from the bankruptcy courts. 

T. F. Woods, of New Boston, Tex., has made an assignment 
of his entire stock of jewelry, etc., for the benefit of creditors. 
The assets are said to be about $950, and the liabilities will 
amount to $1,500. 

A. I. Wyatt, who was once a jeweler of Salt Lake City, Utah, 
and failed, has just received a discharge from the bankruptcy 
court. 



BUSINESS CHANGES 

Whitcoml) Brothers, of Lancaster. N. H.. have purchased the 
jewelry business of the late G. L. Preccett. of Berlin. N. H.. and 
will conduct the same in connection with their I^ncaster store. 



DEEDS AND MORTGAGES 

J. F. Warren, a jeweler of Washington, has given a chattel 
mortgage on his fixtures for a consideration of $1,500. 

L. S. McNamara has given a bill of sale to his entire stock of 
jewelry in Nebraska City, Neb., for $200. 

John Gillies, a jeweler of Fort Scott, Kan., has purchased real 
estate valued at $900. giving a realty mortgage on same for $300 

J. R. Martin, a jeweler of Stuart, la., has given a chattel mort- 
gage for $i5a 

Roy Robinson has given a chattel mortgage on the jewelry 
stock of Robinson Brothers. New Whatcom, Wash., for $800. 

M. F. Warren, of Colorado Springs. Col., has executed a 
cliattel mortgage for $1,300. 



Digitized by LnOO^ iC 



May 10, i8qo 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



597 



BANKRUPTCY 



Important Decision. — ^Judge Lowell of the United States 
District Court at Boston on Saturday handed down an im- 
portant decision under the bankruptcy law, holding that a credi- 
tor of a partnership cannot share pro rata with the creditors 
of one of the individual members of the firm and cannot re- 
ceive a dividend until all of the individual debts have been satis- 
fied. The decision reverses that of Referee Field of Franklin ^ 
County. The bankrupt was Myra S. Wilcox. Three or four 
years ago she was a member of a partnership in Lincoln, Neb. 
The other member of the firm left with all of the funds, and 
she paid up all of the debts of the partnership, except $i,ooo, 
which was subsequently presented for proof against her indi- 
vidual estate in bankruptcy and allowed. The question involved 
was whether the creditor could share with the creditors of the 
individual estate, and the referee held that he should, in view 
of the fact that the former partnership had no assets. Judge 
Lowell's decision is voluminous, citing decisions in this country 
and England, which have been given in the past two centuries. 
He holds that the creditor of the partnership should not be paid 
a dividend until all the debts against the individual estate have 
been paid. 



I^AMONDS AND OTHER PKEOOUS STQNE& 
Uader this hoad wiU appear an nutter of laterett to lapldariet, iaclirtiBt 
lor«lcii diamond market rsportt and all other news reUtinc to predooa atonee. 
IfhQB we eannot pnbUah an oorreapondenee noeiyed, yet Batten of isteieat 
will alwaya leoeive a place ia this depaitmeat. 

A DIAMOND SAWING MACHINE. 
In last issue we printed a letter from a correspondent sign 
ing himself ^'Manufacturer" inquiring if there was a diamond 
sawing machine on the market, and where such a machine can 
be seen. A representative of The Review made inquiry and 
found that although, it is stated, that at least, one firm claims to 
have such a machine there is no foundation for any such claim. 
Our representative found that rumors, such as the one which 
probably reached our correspondent, "Manufacturer," were cir- 
culating in the trade and were the general topic of conversation 
among the manufacturers and buyers of polish diamonds. De- 
siring to investigate the rumor he obtained an 8-karat silver 
cape stone depositing with its owner $185 in case an accident 
should occur in the process. His first call was on Van Wesel 
Bros., who informed him that as far as they were aware such a 
process was impracticable, but advised him to see Kryn & Won- 
ters, who, it is said, have claimed to be able to accomplish the 
work. So he journeyed to Brooklyn, called on this well-known 
firm, produced his diamond and repeated the request that it 
should be sawn. He was told that the stone could be split, but 
that there was no machine or means for sawing it Our repre- 
sentative objected to its being split, and was then recommended 
to try the power of his teeth by biting it off. He subsequently 
tried several of the more important firms, but the answer was 
unanimous, it could not be done. Thinking it possible that he 
might obtain some information from a practical diamond cleaner, 
he sought and found Herman S. Vrieslander, expert of L. 8l M. 
Kabn. Mr. Vrieslander stated that though he could saw wood 
Ue could not saw diamonds. He was, however, by no means sur- 
prised to hear the rumor of the diamond sawing machine, "for," 
said he, "if diamonds can be ground they can be sawn, if only 
you have the proper apparatus." He was, however, emphatic 
that at preesnt there was no machine on the market. He was 
also sceptical as to the advantage such a machine would possess, 
supposing it to be made. It would only be useful for large 
stones from 15 karats up. He said the suggestion of such a ma- 
chine opened a field for investigation, but for the present he 
was sure that the trade need not feel disturbed by the rumors 
of diamond sawing, which were entirely without foundation. 



STATE OF THE FOREIGN GEM MARKETS. 

Antwerp, April 30. — The diamond market is very active. All 
kinds of goods are in demand. We have shipped only a few lots 
of polish goods to the United States, but we cannot supply 
everybody and consequently we refer many to our Amsterdam 
friends. The Kryns, Coetermans, Van Antwerpen & Van der 
Bosh are doing a brisk trade. The former are cutting, clean- 
ing and polishing. The new diamond cutting factory will be 
finished this year, and there is a rumor here that we shall shortly 
have another factory twice the size of the new one in the Van 
Iniroerzell Straat. We are expecting a number of American buy- 
er? here by the next steamer. J. AKIE. 



Ccreely Cold. 



^ ^ 



Fact: 



To carry successfully in stock very fine 

gems requires an intimacy with the 

sources of the same and important out- 
lets therefor. 



Requirement : 



Also that confidence in the market born 
of long experience and an earnest belief 
in the advancing value of, and increasing 
demand for, rare goods. 

Deduction : 

That is the reason why Alfred H. Smith 
& Co. should always be visited first by 
buyers in search of special things in Rubies, 
Diamonds, Pearls, etc. 

ALFRED H. SMITH & CO., 

NEW YORK: 182 BROADWAY. 



Telephone : 3583 CortUndt. 



Cable Address : '' Stppbire« N. Y.' 



CHICAGO : 103 State St 
LONDON : 2\ HoLBORN Viaduct. 



Digitized by VnOOQ iC 



598 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



May lo, 1899 



ESTABLISHED 1871. 



Clatter and Importer of Diamonds 



Prescott Building:, 65 Nassau Street 



New York 



FACTORY 
1325 Atlantic Avenue, Brooklyn. 



HOUSE IN EUROPE 
23, 25 Loojersgracht, Amsterdam 



Amsterdam, April 30. — Americans are well to the front here 
as buyers this week, Paris comes nexr, and London and Russian 
buyers are much in evidence. Our rough supply is very limited. 
Amstel Hotel has had a full house with the diamond buyers, and 
the Hotel Mille. Colom has no more room for guests this week. 
The regulars arrived this week from London with a good sup- 
ply of rough which disappeared an hour after it arrived, which 
demonstrates what a demand there is for these goods. Some of 
our locd dealers have received large orders from the United 
States, which I can positively state will not be filled. 

H. CHARLES. 



IMPrOVEy.ENTS, N£V GOODS AND PATENTS 
Under this head T(r*ll appear descriptions of all new productions in Machin- 
ery, Tools, Mannfactvers' Designs and Patents, domestic and forei^, relating 
to the trade. Those interested are requested to forward ns for publication, 
free of charge, fun descriptions of articles, with photographs or drawings 
whenever possible. 

NEW PATENTS GRANTED 




^§HI^^= 



623158. 



623159. 



623,158. Qock Winding Indicator. Augustus G. Jacobs, Jonestown, 
Miss. Filed June 20, 1898. Serial No. 683,933. (No model.) 

623^31. Ophthal Dynametcr. Christian H. Brown, Philadelphia, Pa. 
Filed Dec. 18, 1897. Serial No. 683,398. (No model.) 

Claim.— X. An ophthalmic measuring instrument comprising a plate of 
a width greater than twice the distance between the eyes of a person and 
having a central vision-opening, clips or suoports at the rear of said plate 
for the reception of removable lenses, a holder for a test object and means 
for positively traveling said holder toward and from said plate, substantially 
as specified. 



623461. 



624462. 



•cr%T»iri 



6^3,461. Adjustment for spectacles. R Macdunald, Chicago. Filed Feb. 
14, 1899. Serial 702,020. 

624,462. Spectacle frame. G. W. Bryant, Newark. Filed Feb. 14, 1899. 
Serial 663,747. 



C'p 






630363. 620201. 625521. 

619,343. Knife Shaft. A. G. Jacobs, Jonestown, Miss. Filed June 20, 
1898. 

DESIGNS 
Z2,722. Ornamental Spoon. J. Weiser, New York. „.,,„. 

621^63. Time Indicator. L. B. Hilbom, Newark, N. J. Filed Feb. a, 
1899. Serial 663,746. 



30,556. Badge or similar article- Charles W. Bingeman, Buffalo, N. Y. 
Filed March 21, 1899. Serial No. 709,983. Term of patent 3^^ years. 




/^v^-=.r3iK:> 




32698. 



32722. 



30,561. Dinner-plate. Oswald W. Schubert, Milwaukee, Wis. Filed 
Jan. 23, 1899. Serial No. 703,184. Term ot patent 7 vears. 

30,577. Clock- Frame. Emile Hardy,. New York, N. Y. Filed Marrch «, 
1899. Serial No. 710,100. Term of patent 354 years. 



( 





30556. 



30321. 



30301. 



30,588. Razor-Handle, etc. Marshall C. Lefferts, New York, N. Y., as- 
signor to the Celluloid Company, same place, a Corporation of New Jersey. 
Filed March 10, i^. Serial No. 708,613. Term of patent 7 years. 



J 





34203. 

32.722. Silver-Plated Spoons. ]?emard Rice's Sons, New York, N. Y. 
Filed March 24, 1899. 




REVIEW TRADE ITEMS. 

The trade has' Been looking forward for some months to the 
time when the Dueber-Hampden Watch Works would bring oat 
a i2-size movement to compete with the examples of ^liis in- 
creasingly popular style already furnished by other watch com- 
panies. It was expected that with the product of the other 
manufactories before them, and with the chance of profitin^lby 
possible inadequacies and remedying latent defects that might 
have developed in the watches of that size already on the market, 
the Hampden factory would produce a time-piece that would es- 
tablish a criterion for the 12-size. Chicago jewelers were, ac- 
cordingly, much interested in the beautiful specimen of the new 
12-size Dueber-Hampden Watch, which Col. W. A. Moore. 
treasurer of the Case Company, had with him last week. It is 
17 jewel, fully adjusted and complete 12-size watch; and has a 
solid gold 14-karat case, will be sold to the trade at a price of 
$46. Its makers controlling, as they do, both movement and 
case factories are able to put a complete watch on the market 

Rosenweig Bros., dealers in diamonds, jewelry, materials, etc. 
52 Maiden Lane, New York, are sending out a comprehensive 
catalogue of their goods. It contains many novel and attractive 
designs in silver and silver mounted goods manicure sets, match 
boxes, card cases and a number of other articles for which jewel- 
ers will find a ready sale. 

G. E. Darling, of Providence, is just sending out his fuUy 
illustrated catalogue of fine jewelry, which we see: includes a 
large number of novel and very artistic designs. Among other 
items are buckles, in rose gold and silver gray, rolled gold plate 
and sterling silver crystal lockets and charms in almost endless 
variety. 



Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



May lo; 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



599 



CERAMICS 



Under this head special attention win be given to pottery, bric-a-brac and 
poicelain, whicb now form an important part of the jeweler's trade. Fine 
products of the potter's art have always been prized by the select few bat 
recently the popular taste has caused a demand for these goods which has 
encouxmsed artists of recognised ability in their production, as new wares ar» 
constantly appearing, especially in foreign countries. 

PIERCING MAJOLICA AND PORCELAIN. 

A foreign exchange contained in a recent number the follow- 
ing short treatise upon the piercing of majolica and porcelain: 

Ce^mic objects can be quite readily pierced with steel tools. 
BesV suited are drills of ordinary shape, hardened like diamond 
and moistened with oil of turpentine, if the glaze or a vitreous 
body is to be pierced. In the case of majolica and glass without 
enamel the purpose is best reached if the drilling is done under 
water. Thus, the vessel sh6uld * previously be filled with water 
and placed in a receptacle containing water, so that the gimlet 
is used under water, and, after piercing the clay body, reaches 
water again. In the case of objects glazed on the inside, instead 
of filling them with water, the spot where the drill must come 
through may be underlaid wjth cork. The pressure with which 
the drill is worked is determined by the hardness of the material, 
but when the tool is about to reach the other side it should 
g^dually decrease and finally cease almost altogether, so as to 
avoid chipping. In order to enlarge small bore-holes already 
existing, three-cornered or four-square broaches, ground and 
polished, are best adapted. These are likewise employed under- 
water or, if the material is too hard (glass or enamel), moist- 
ened with oil of turpentine. The simultaneous use of oil of tur- 
pentine and water is most advisable in all cases, even where the 
nature of the article to be pierced does not admit the use of oil 
alone, as in the case of majolica and non-glazed porcelain, which 
absorb the oil, without the use of water. 
CERAMIC NOTES 

Perhaps one reason for the popularity of the product of the 
J. D. Bergen Company lies in the fact that there are no less 
than five Bergens connected with the company, all of whom 
from J. D. Bergen, the head of the company, down are practical 
capable and experienced men who have grown up in the busi- 
ness starting from the bottom rung. Orte Bergen or another is 
at the head of all the principal departments in the shop, while 
J. D. Bergen himself exercises a ifeneral supervision over the 
company's affairs and manages the New York showroom at 



38 Murray street. M^ny of the new patterns atnd euttings, which 
have this year proved so popular are the exclusive creations of 
J. D. Bergen. The New York office has recently been consid- 
erably enlarged and the conipany's fine display of cut glass now 
appears to better advantage than ever. 

The J. B. Owens Pottery Company, Zancsville, O., New York 
office, 68 West Broadway, offers an exceedingly attractive line 
of art pottery of a destinctively American order. The color 
tones of the grounds are dark green, mauve and brown, the dec- 
orations being in slight relief. These latter are of a high order 
of merit, the production of artists of recognized merit Each 
piece is original. Jewelers in New York will do well to take a 
look through the New York salesroom. 

Baccarat glassware has a high reputation. Mr. Pane Durand, 
the New York representative whose announcement appears on 
another page has in the salesroom, at 41 Warren street, always 
on view, the latest and best productions of the Bacarat factory. 
The line is particularly strong in high-class steinware. 

Davison Bros., 12 Barclay street. New York, have a full as- 
sortment of everything in fine china for jewelers* needs. Des- 
sert plates, fish and game sets, cups and saucers, art pieces, etc., 
always find ready sale in a jeweler's stock and the line at 
Davison Bros, offers an opportunity for excellent selections. 

The auction sale at LeBoutillier & Co.'s, 18 East Seventeenth 
street, closed on Saturday last, about 1,400 lots being disposed of 
at- fairly satisfactory prices. 



CUSTOMS 

Under this betd we five weekly a resume of the thlproents and receipts relating 
to the trade* covered by this paper, at the Port of New York, as well as the National 
Monthly Report, conuinlng sutlatics of the Imports and exports. We also cover 
reappraisements of imports and the decisions of the Treasury Department relating 
to Imported goods. 

REAPPRAISEMENTS OF MERCHANDISE 

20730. — Decorated china, from Geo. Borgfeldt & Co., Bamberg, March 
9, 1899. Teller feston, 24 cm., 3446, entered at 2.60, advanced to 2.86 marks 
per dozen. Discounts 10 per cent and 5 per cent. Add cases. 

20761, 20763, 20718. — Decorated china, from Geo. Borrfeldt & Co., Sonnc- 
berg, Marcn 7 and 16, 1899. Seconds: Celery trays, Helene, 3302, entered 
at 4.^0 marks per dozen. Plateau, Engen, 2, 3308, entered at 2.50 marks 
per dozen. Plateau Klio. 2, 3300, entered at 4.50 marks per dozen. Teller 
Defender, 24/3325, enterea at 2.60 marks per dozen. Cabarets Louts. 1/3321, 
entered at 8.40 marks per dozen. Similar goods, similar values. All no ad- 
vance. Add cases. 

20766.— Decorated china, from Geo. Borgfeldt & Co., Bodenbach, March 6, 
1899. Seconds : 5019, mugs, Pauline, 3644, entered at .^2 florin per dozen. 
5019, pudding sets, Paul, 3634, entered at 7.80 florins per dozen. 




38MarraySt. 
NEW YORK 



pOREMOST LINE OF 

* AMEWCAN CUT GLASS. 

New aacl Beaotifiil SIiApet. Scad for Catalog:ae. Ekctrot foniihecl f or AdveriUng. 

Color Perfect. Beauty of Design and Brilliancy 
of Finish Unquestionable. 

Tlie Dealer wlio handSe* "BERGEN" CUT GLASS can defy competitioa, becauK quality of Goods and Prices aic right. 




UTOPIAN FAIENCE. 



A high-priaze ART POTTERY >" t>eautiful blendings, 
of dull Qreen, Mauve and Brown, Each piece distinctive; free 
hand decorations, great variety in shapes. 

Prices for the different pieces vary from 50 cents to $100. 



Tke Line is spedalty adapted for the Retail Jeweler. 

New Yofk Saleiroomi I D nWPMQ DHTTPDV rTl Main Office and Pottery, 

W. H. DUNN, 68-70 Weit Broadway. ^* ■-^» V/ ▼¥ Crl^^ \r\J \ 1 IJflVI WV/.^ ZANESVILLE, O. 



BACCARAT GLASSWARE 

(Cristalleries^ Baccarat, France). 

Trad. Mark, Gilt^ Engravccl and Cut SUWIPJirC 

in many UNIQUE and HANDSOMR DESIGNS, specially adapted for Retail 

Jeweler*. 
JJtrgt variety of CUT GLASS PIECES for Siivtrsmitkt. 

New York Office, 41 Warren Street, PAUL DURAND, 



PECIALTIES IN 



Dessert Plates, Fish 
and Game Sets, Cups 
and Saucers, Art Pieces, 

DAVISON BROS., ., .2^1^}^' 




Showrooms, 12 Barclay Street, New Yyrfc, 

Digitized by 



Cioogle 



60Q 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



May 10, 1899 



NEWS OF THE LAKE STATES 

FROM OUR SPHCIAL CORRBSPONDENTS. 

^f ^ news an^ jb)i^l%ets and personal items from those States bordering 
on the Lakes will be found onder this head. These States include Minnesota, 
Wisconsin, Iowa, Michiean, Indiana, Illinois and Ohio. We shall welcome any 
items of general interest from our readers, whi^h should reach us not later 
than Monday mominf. 

CHICAGO 

The Watson & Newell Company of Attleboro, Mass., are now 
represented in Chicago at room 501 of the Columbus Memorial 
Building. George W. Shepardson is the local manager. 

John C. Case, of the Refining firm of Horace F. Carpenter, 
of Providence, was here last week. He stopped at the Leland 
Hotel. 

The following are at preesnt taking a course in the Johnston 
Optical Institute and College of Ophthalmology, at 84 Wabash 
avenue; William T. Best, of Illinios; J. E. Lanning,- of Iowa; 
Charles A. Wilson, of Iowa. 

Charles H. Hubbard, president of the Elgin National Watch 
Company, returned on Friday from a two weeks Eastern trip. 
He reports that Elgin interests are flourishing in the East, and 
is satisfied with the outlook for fall trade. 

J. S. Gratz, traveling for A. Hirsch & Co., met with an acci- 
dent recently in Wisconsin. He was riding from Omro to Win- 
neconne in that State, in a carriage, and fell out, sustaining in- 
juries in his head. He has recovered now. 

It has not yet been announced who is to be the successor of 
the late C. F. Livcrmore in the management of the Chicago 
office of the Middletown Plate Company. Mr. R. R. West is 
temporarily in charge of the office. 

M. S. Benedict Manufacturing Company, at 109- 11 Wabash 
avenue, are busy with a big business at present. Mr. Benedict 
says the factory at Syracuse is working over time and that all 
the hands that can be accommodated are now employed there. 

The Victoria Hotel, where so many traveling jewelers stop 
while in this city, has recently hung out a new electric lighted 
sign just below the second story windows on the southeast cor- 
ner, and now at night one can see the name "Victoria" for many 
blocks up Michigan avenue. 

Joe Brown Co. are making extensive improvements in their 
quarters at 71 Washington street. A large gallery which is to 
go in will give them the room they have for some time needed 



for their increasing stock, and, with a general redecorating of 
walls and woodwork, will lend a new aspect to the offices of the 
prosperous house. 

The early closing on Saturdays has begun for .the summer 
with the wholesale and jobbing jewelry houses here, last Satur- 
day being the first day. Many of the manufacturing houses, al- 
though the press of their business far from warrants a shorten- 
ing of work hours, have accepted the inevitable with as good 
grace as possible and closed their doors at i o'clock. 

John W. Forsinger has just been made Chicago representative 
of D. Gruen & Sons., of Dresden, Germany, and Cincinnati, the 
manufacturers of the famous Gruen Precision Watch. These 
Dresden watches are recognized among the trade as being 
among the finest made. Mr. Forsinger will carry two sizes, a 16 
and an 18, in two grades; the movements are ruby jeweled and 
of the highest quality. These watches are not handled through 
jobbers, the company's plan being to have local agents in each 
town. Mr. Forsinger's men will carry samples on the road in 
order to be able to fill all orders from these local agents, and 
they anticipate good business. 

The regular meeting of the Chicago Jewelers' Association was 
held on Tuesday of l^t week. There was little business aside 
from routine matters. J. H. Purdy, for the committee appointed 
to take up the matter of discrimination in express charges on 
jewelry shipments, reported that the managers of express com- 
panies in Chicago had been consulted, that they had referred the 
matter to the authorities in the East, and that the answer was 
that no change could be made at this time. The following were 
appointed a committee to nominate officers for the coming elec- 
tion, which will be held at the next meeting of the association on 
the first Tuesday in June; James A. Todd, A. C. Becken, and 
Charles Lester. The officers to be elected are: President, vice- 
president, secretary and treasurer, and membership of the finance 
and membership committees. Mr. T. Y. Midlen's departure 
from the city has left a vacancy on the membership committee. 

Schlesinger and Mayer are to move into the ground Hoor of 
the Silversmith's building, with a stock of books and stationery 
in a few days time. 

Reed & Barton were busy over their inventory last week. 

Maurice Eisenstadt, of the Eisenstadt Manufacturing Com- 
pany, St. Louis, has recently been in Chicago w,here he stopped 
at the Palmer House. 



JOE BROWN CO. 

OPboleiak 3ewekr$ 

CASH BUYERS OF ENTIRE JEWELRY 
STORES AND STOCK 



If you have any surplus stock of Diamonds, Watches or Jewelry that you want to 
sell for cash or trade for other goods, send it to us for estimate. We will send you 
the cash by return mail, and if not satisfactory will return your goods. 

FOR SALE— 5,000 Second-Hand American Thermometers. 
-AMk ibr IlluttrmUd CmMogu: 

. 67-69 E. Washington 'St.. CHICAQO, ILL. 



<;**** ********** AAA A AAAA AAA A A4,iy 

I DWT. 

EASY-FL0WIN6 
GOLD 




SObDeR 



S Earth 



Manylaclured by p. H. NOBLE & CO., 
103 State Street, Chicago. 



RdMiriNg Rtpeatiiig OPatdMi. 

Fully illustrated, paper covers, 32 pages. 

Price 35c. 

A practical treatise on the subject and the 
only one in print. 

Sent post free from The Jewelers 
Review, 170 Broadway, New York. 



RELIABJLE 



SILVERWARE 
REPAIRED 

ANp 

REFLATED 



ill SILVER 



dreomb 



PLATERS 



STATE ST. 



V 






Sold Exclusively to Jewelers 




GEORGIAN 



STERLING SILVER 
TABLE WARE 




French Gray Finish. 



COFFFF SPOON 

[Made in a complete Table Service. 



TOWLE MFG. COMPANY 

I Silversmithis NEWBURYRORT Meiss 

L CHICAGO: 149-153 State Street 

Digitized by VnOOQ iC 



May 10, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



601 . 



Among the buyers in the city last week were: 
W. E. Masters, Jamestown, N. Y.; G. K. Harker, Plainfield, la.; Orris 



Booth, Knoxville, Tmih.; L. Holland, Cirilom, 111.; Justin J. Smith, of 
BellePlaiae, JJ».: Weaver, of Weaver Bros., Lancaster, Wis.; W. H. Thorp, 
Beaver D»m, Wis.; J. L. Mawhinney, Omaha, Neb.; B. S. Ruddick, Wa 



ILLINOIS WATCH CJiSE CO., 



verlcy, la. 

W. F. Fredeking, of Hinton, W. Va., who h.is been in this 
city recently has returned to his home. 

Vice-President Robinson, of the Gorham Manufacturing Com- 
pany, has been in the city recently. 

James A. Todd, manager of the Towlc Manufacturing Com- 
pany, returned last Wednesday from a two weeks Eastern trip. 

J. Milleman, of the Hodges Manufacturing Company, 23 
Maiden Lane, New York, is in town with a full line of samples. 

B. F. Norris, of B. F. Norris, Allister & Co., is journeying 
around the world. He is due in Japan very soon. 

Mr. and Mrs. Otto Young, and the Misses Young, who have 
been in Europe for the past three months have returned. 

George C. Edwards, of Holmes & Edwards, Bridgeport, 
Conn., and one of the executive committee of the International 
Silver Company, was in town last week. 

Louis Manheimer reports good business. The first four 
months of this year show a decided gain over the corresponding 
months of 1898. 

William F. Juergcns, of the Juergens & Andersen Co., who 
was married last month is spending a part of his honeymoon at 
Old Point Comfort. 

Mr. Simon Goldsmith, of the firm of Goldsmith & Bros., re- 
finers and assayers, left town on Monday for a business trip into 
Mexico. 

L. Eisenbach, one of A. Hirsch & Co.'s men. started out on a 
Western trip last Saturday, which will take him into Kansas. 
Missouri and Nebraska. 

Henry Ayres, formerly local agent of the Brooklyn Watch 
Case Company, has been visiting in Chicago recently. Mr. 
Ayers now makes his home at Sydney. Australia. 

W. C. Bliedung, who travels for J. H. Purdy & Co., was in 
the city for a few days last week. He starts out again this week 
for a trip into Wisconsin. 

Frederick H. Smith, of the Geneva Optical Company, left the 
city last Wednesday for a four weeks Eastern trip. He will be 
in New York most of the time. 



B^r^Qiiv, ir^r^.. 




MANUFACTURERS OF 



TIIMMdSilwr... 

Watch Cases. 

COMMANDER, 

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GIANT, 

Guaranteed for 20 yrs. 

NAPOLEON, 

Guaranteed for 10 yrs. 



Ornamented Cases 
a Specialty. 



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. . , Fer Sale by all Jobbers . . . 

ELGIN HOROLOGICAL SCHOOL. 

The best equipped and oldest in the West. We teach Watch 
Repairing, Engraving, Jewelry Repairing and Optics. For terms, 
etc.. address ELGIN HOROLOQICAL SCHOOL, Elgin, III. 

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ESTABLISHED 1854. 



INCORPORATED 1893 



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A\AKER5 OF FINE JEWELRY.... 

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602 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



May 10, 1S99 



ELGIN. 

Henry Muller has engaged in business in Chicago and Mil- 
waukee and will reside at the latter place. 

Will White, of Waltham, has been seriously ill here and will 
return East as soon as able. 

T. J. Juzek, of the Horological School, has gone into the 
Montana fertilizing business and met with unusual success. The 
venture is fast becoming a solid business enterprise. 

The Watchworkers' Union has had a series of lectures from 
prominent sympathizers with the labor cause. The last was by 
Jay Miller, a Chicago business man, who advocated the single 
tax as a paneca for all of the ills the flesh is heir to. The union 
now announces that it is unaware of the sentiments of the 
speaker and does not endorse them. 

Fred Rheinbold, who left the shop at the outbreak of the war, 
has been mustered out of service in Cuba. His wife left here Sat- 
urday for Havana, where they will reside. 

Richard Roddis was given a benefit at the factory gymnasium 
and $500 realized with which to raise a mortgage on his home. 
He is an old-time machinist who became blind. 

CINCINNATI 

R. H. Galbreath, who has been for many years associated 
with the Duhme Jewelry Co., and its predecessors, the Duhme 
Co. and Duhme & Co., is now with the concern of Duhme 
Brothers & Co. The change was effective May i. 

Charles L. Gossard, a retail jeweler of Washington C. H., 
Fayette Co., O., was in the city last week. 

A. G. Schwab has gone on an extended Eastern trip of ten 
days or two weeks in duration. He goes to Washington, Phila- 
delphia, New York, Boston and Providence and will mingle 
with the jewelry and watch trade on his visit. 

Herman Keck is back from his diamond buying trip to Lon- 
don, Antwerp, Amsterdam and Paris. While in London he 
bought very heavily of rough and in the other markets he pur- 
chased pearls and colored stones. He brought home with him 
a chunk of clay from the Kimberly mines that is exhibited in 
the window and that will be broken open in the presence of 
expert witnesses. 

There was a game of ball last Sunday between the wholesale 
and retail departments of the firm of Oskamp, Nolting & Co. 
The game was running along very smoothly when one of the 
men had his nose broken by a ball. 

A sensation was created by the arrest at Owensboro, Ky., 
the other day, of W. L. Coppersmith, a jeweler, on the charge 
of receiving stolen goods. A colored boy declared that he stole 
two rings from a wealthy resident and sold them to Coppersmith 
for 30 cents. The rings were valued at $500. 

Decision in the Oskamp Case. — After all the trouble and' 
testimony a decision has been reached in one of the celebrated 
Oskamp •will cases which have caused so much talk and been 
carried on for upwards of nine months. The decision has.been 
rendered in favor of the heirs who sought to break the will and 
who were opposed to John C. Daller. The will as origift^ly 
drawn is sustained, but two codicils are set aside. The first 
codicil gave Mr. Daller the control of the jewelry store and 
business which was appraised at $183,000. According to this 
codicil also Mr. Daller was to buy* the store at tlie end'bf twenty 
years at a price to be agreed upon by appraisement The other 
codicil made Mr. Daller executor. As both of these codicils 
are now set aside the jewelry store is now put in with the other 
items of the estate to be divided between the heirs, and Mr. 
Daller is succeeded as executor by D. G. Edwards. As the 
will now stands the three daughters, Mrs. Hageman, Mrs. Breen 
and Mrs. Ford receive the farm and town property, all valued 
at $20,000, and the other part of the estate, estimated at $200,000, 
is to be divided between the three daughters named and Mrs. 
Daller and the sons, William, Henry, Clemens and Alfred. 
There is still one other case to be decided in connection with 
this controversy, and that is the one in which there is asked 
an accounting for $125,000, which Mr. Daller claims to have 
been settled by notes that were acknowledged paid by Mrs. 
Oskamp before her death, according to the testimony of Mr. 
Daller. This is the case in which the other heirs set up the 
claim that the receipts were forged and a decision is expected 
in this case before long. 

DETROIT 
J. Hellerich's jewelery store, 39 Michigan avenue, was dam- 
aged $500 by fire on the night of May i. 

C. E. Regli, of Duluth, Minn., and Carl Hegland, of Belleville, 
Mich., have completed special courses of optics with the L. 
Black Company's school. Mr. Regli will open a first-class opti- 



cal store in connection with his jewelery establishmeot in Du- 
luth. Mr. Regland will open an optical establishment in Belle- 
ville, which will supply all the neighboring towns. 

George Johnston, president of the Johnston Optical Company, 
will go to New York this week to attend the annual meeting of 
the American Association of Wholesale Opticians, of which he 
is an officer. 

John Campbell, a city salesman for the L. Black Company, 
will travel through the State for his firm hereafter. 

William H. Broer, watch inspector of the Toledo division of 
the Michigan Central railroad, was in the city for several days 
last week as the guest of Carl Wagner, of the L. Black Com- 
pany. 

The L. Black Company has issued a beautiful new catalogue 
illustrating their photographic and optical goods. 

Joseph Q. Sideman, representing Ferd. Fuchs & Bros., of 
New York, was in the city this l^eek, and placed a large line of 
silverware samples on display in Parlor H,' Hotel Cadillac. Sev- 
eral local jewelers congratulated Mr. Sideman on the excellent 
showing he made and credit him with the best display that 
has been seen here for years. 

The following buyers were in town this week: Ezra Grif&n, of Marlette; 
A. W. Kludt, Lenox; C E. Montford, Utica; L. A. Stehle, Linden; L. H. 
Cooper, Gaines. 



CANADIAN NEWS. 

PROM OUK SrsCIAL CORRBSPONDBHTt. 

TORONTO 

The 20th Century Jewelers' Herald, with illustrations and 
prices of up-to-date goods, is • published monthly by Messrs. 
P. W. Ellis & Co. It certainly should be a trade bringer. 

The Canadian Horological Institute, King street East, To- 
ronto, can boast of a big class, and Prof. H. R. Playtner is to be 
complimented on the success of his school. 

The Canadian Ophthalmic College will conduct a Post Grad- 
uate Course in Retinoscopy, commencing May 25. 

The Optical Institute of Canada will have a class on Retino- 
scopy commencing May 9 for graduate opticians only, and will 
commence the class for beginners June 6. 

M. G. Thompson intends opening up in a few days an optical 
parlor at 93^'$ Yonge street. 

The Waltham Watch Co.'s new price list means to the local 
jeweler a rebate of 10.50 for Vanguards, 5.25 for Crescent St. 
Nickel 21 jewels, and 3.70 for Appleton, Tracy & Co. 17 jewel — 
and they are all looking to their interests, by applying for re- 
bates. 

SOUTHERN AND WESTERN NEWS 

PROM OUR SPECIAL CORRSSPOMDBNTS. 

All the news with Interesting and tuefol trade notes win be fhrtn in 
these oolonms weekly. This heading corers an the States Bastwaid of and 
adjoining the Rocky Moontains and aU the Southern and Gulf States. We 
shaU heartily welcome any notes from those of our readers who can send vs 
prompt information of any trade news of general Interest. Cnch notes shoili 
reath as not later than Monday r^''^*r\tt. 

ST. LOUIS 

H. Selignian returned from a successful southwestern trip. 

S. H. Bauman, of the Bauman-Massa Company, just got back 
from a trip to Kansas City, Springfield and Southwestern Mis- 
souri. 

The amount of subscriptions to the World's Fair stock, 
amongst the jewelers of this city, has up to this time reached 
about ?44,350. 

The regular monthly meeting of the Retail Jewelers' Asso- 
ciation of Missouri, was postponed last Wednesday night, sub- 
ject to the call of the president. 

Buyers in the city: Chas. Reese, of Reese Bros.. San Antonio, Tex.; W. 
G. George, Cobdcn. 111.; L. J. Wick, Highland, 111.: C. W. Birdslec. Litch 
field. 111.; T. J. Dye, Du Quoin, 111.; W. J. Sproul. SparU. III. 

A very sad occurrence, caused by his premature alighting from 
a train, ended in the death of Fred E. Gotsch, a watchmaker of 
2714 Cass avenue, St. Louis, last Sunday. 

Opening of the New Mermod & Jaccard Store. — One of 
the leading features, this week has been the opening of the new 
store of the Mermod & Jaccard Jewelry Company, on Monday, 
May I. Large crowds thronged the place from early in the 
morning until in the evening, when the doors were closed. An 
orchestra, which was engaged for the entire week, rendered 
some excellent selections, and each visitor was the recipient of 
some flowers. Unlike most of the large establishments. The 
Mermod & Jaccard Jewelry Company did an exceptionally 
good business on the day of their opening, in all their different 
departments, notably they had the sale of a "Grandfather's Jubu- 



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May 10, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



603 



lar Chime Clock/* at $750. The ctlebration will continue for the 
rest of the week. 

The Broadway Jewelry Company had to have a new pane put 
in their front show window, to replace the one which was 
smashed by a man who tried to rob the place the other morning. 
The "much-talked about" Department Store Bill, has at last 
passed the Missouri Legislature, with an amendment, that such 
firms, having less than 15 employees shall not be considered 
department stores. Of course, the Jewelers are jubilant at the 
victory, and they will now fight the amendment for further or- 
ders. 

S. A. Aloe, of Philadelphia, formerly of the A. S. Aloe Com- 
pany, is visiting in the city. 

James Johnson, of The A. S. Aloe Company, has just re- 
turned from an extensive trip to Old Mexico. 

Henry Estinghausen, of The Attleboro Jewelry Company, re- 
turned home last Tuesday from a several months' tour through 
South America and Cuba. 

O. Abel, of The A, S. Aloe Company, will leave on a trip to 
Philadelphia, next week. 

Mrs. Lieberman, former wife of Louis Miller, who up to a 
few years ago conducted a jewelry business on Franklin avenue, 
and afterwards committed suicide, has been arrested on a war- 
rant charging her with receiving stolen goods. It required the 
work of four shrewd detectives for several weeks to get on to 
this "fence." About $1,000 worth of jewelry has been found in 
her house. She is said to have Chicago connections in the busi- 
ness. 

The Boland Jewelry Company were the successful bidders for 
the manufactory of 8,600 badges for the Elks, who will hold a 
reunion here about the middle of June; 25,000 Elks are expected 
to come to the city. A large number of Eastern firrhs have been 
knocked out on that bid. 

KANSAS CITY 
Don Dix, who made his first trip on the road this year, for C. 
A. Kiger, has again loaded up his trunks and is on the territory 
again. 

Roy Warner, formerly in the employ of both the Edwards & 
Sloane Jewelry Co. and the Meyer Jewelry Company, has ac- 
cepted a position as traveling salesman for Hugh Oppenheimer 
& Co., of this city. 

S. W. Sturdevant, a traveling salesman for J. A. Norton & 
Son, has returned from a trip over his territory, and will re- 
main a week or so. 

W. J. Smith, a city fireman, saved Mrs. George W. Chase, 
the wife of a jeweler of this city, from burning to death last 
week. Mrs. Chase was the victim of a gasoline explosion, her 
dress caught fire and she ran into the yard. Mr. Smith was 
passing, and at once came to her relief and put out the flames, 
then called out the fire department and put out the fire which 
had been started in the house. 

O. H. Woodfill, a jeweler of Nevada, Mo., came to this city 
last week to attend an operation which Was to be performed 
upon his wife. She was not able to recover from the shock and 
died shortly after the operation was performed. 

Fred Dobler, who has for some time been in the employ of 
the Meyer Jewelry Co., has moved his family from their old 
home in Leavenworth, Kan., to this city. 

William F. Walsh, who has been in the employ of the manu- 
facturing jewelers of this city for some time, is now taking a 
vacation and is visiting his old home in Rockford, 111. 

The Jaccard Jewelry Company announce that their engraving 
department is exceedingly rushed, just at this time, and they are 
turning out a great amount of fine stationery. They have just 
made the invitations to the commencement exercises of the 
Kansas City School of Law, which are handsome products of 
the engraver's art. * 

A divorce was last week granted to Grace Hayter, wife of 
Frederick Hayter, a jeweler of 117 East Fifth street. Mr. 
Hayter was called into court, and announced that he was willing 
divorce should be allowed by default. 

Robert Hickman, of ihc jewelry and drug firm of Eyesell ik 
Hickman, Union avenue, this city, has just returned from a 
bu>'ing trip to Chicago. 

Richard Moore, a watchmaker in the employ of the Meyer 
Jewelry Company, is detained from his regular duties, on ac- 
count of being on the regular panel of a jury. 

C. L. Merry, head of the C. L. Merry Optical Company, has 
returned from his stay of a month in Mexico, and announces 
that he had a very pleasant time and is very much pleased with 
that country. 



The Edwards & Sloane Jewelry Company have just received 
from their printer an eighty-page 1899-1900 catalogue, and will 
at once distribute them among the jewelers of the West. 
LOUISVILLE 

Silver Service for the Kentucky. — The battleship Ken- 
tucky commissioners who were chared with selecting a silver 
service for the ship have brought down a storm about their 
heads by giving the contract to J. E. Caldwell & Co., of Phila- 
delphia. The service is to consist of 70 pieces, and is to cost 
$6,000. Bidders came from New York, Philadelphia, Providence, 
R. L, and Louisville. Those Louisville firms which bid were 
Rodgers & Pottinger, J. K. Lemon & Son, George Wolf & Co. 
Rodgers & Pottinger narrowly missed getting the contract, and 
it is for this reason that the trouble has been raised. The local 
jewelers think that inasmuch as the money for the service was 
raised in Kentucky a Kentucky firm should have been given the 
contract. 

MINNEAPOLIS 

J. B. Andson, 519 Nicolet avenue, is in New York on a busi- 
ness trip. 

Charles Olson & Co., 215 Central avenue, have moved into 
Rose drug store, next door, temporarily, while they are having 
their store remodeled. 

E. Adelsheim, with S. Jacobs & Co., 410 Nicolet, has gone 
to West Baden Springs, Indiana, on a two weeks vacation. 

Joe Schech, with Jacobs Jewelery Company, mourns the death 
of his father, who died last Friday and was buried last Monday. 
Mr. Schech has the deepest sympathy of the jewelry trade. 

Mr. Giest, with Rentz Bros., has gone to Sank Center, Minn., 
to play ball the coming season. Mr* Giest is one of the best 
amateur catchers there is in town. 

Mr. Jumper, with S.' H. Clausin & Co., left last Wednesday on 
a Southern trip. 

Abe Cohen, of 84 East Seventh street, St. Paul, has moved to 
93 East Seventh, temporarily, while he is building a new store, 
which will be built of brick and be ready about the ist of July. 

H. Esterberg, with Charles Olson & Co., has resigned his 
position as watchmaker and in the future will be with his brother 
in St Paul. 

G. W. Felch, Knoxville, la.; W. O. Dustin, Elmore, Minn.; 
William Krone, Annandale, Minn.; W. L. Walsh, of O'Hair & 
Walsh, Waverly, Minn., were visiting Minneapolis the past 
week. 

Evans, Munzer, Pinckering & Co. have moved their jewelry 
department into their new annex, which they have recently oc- 
cupied. 

PAOnC AND ROCXY MOUNTAIN NEWS. 

PKOM OUK SFBCIAL CORKBSPOMDBMTS. 

The mnn^uOm tiit fc<afltiif it nootnA fiom thoM ttatae bofAfiriAgoi 
tW PAcUte and tztwdlBf inUuiA to tlit Soeky HOoBtaiii*. Txadd sewa and 
oooMpondaiod from oar leadero it always weloomo and tluwld bo xooetrod at 
tUt ottoo not later than Moadaj moninc in each wook. 

SAN FRANCISCO 

R. S. Hunt, optician at San Jose, Cal., and Mrs. Hunt, are 
here visit,ipg jtheir numerous San Francisco acquaintances. 

J. W. Davis, secretary and treasurer California Optical Co., 
returned May i from an all around Northern coast trip, report- 
ing trade conditions everywhere brimful of good cheer. 

In continuation of the report of Jeweler Radke's capture of a 
smart diamond thief, as recorded in The Review of April 26, 
the prisoner, W. C. Epperson, appeared a few mornings ago 
before Police Judge Graham, who held him to answer a charge 
of grand larceny, his bond being fixed at $2,000. The specific 
accusation is stealing a diamond ring valued at $240 from W. 
S. Tobin's Market street jewelry store. 

Shreve & Co. have won another victory. In an open field^ 
where no favors were shown, this local firm of silverware manu- 
ufacturers entered as competitors with great Eastern houses in 
• the trade to secure this year's order for the solid silver cup, 
twenty inches high, to be awarded as the debating trophy in the 
year's intellectual competition between the champion debaters 
of Stanford University and the University of California, and 
came out with flying colors. San Francisco members of the 
trade generally speak of this elaborately decorated memento 
cup as a splendid specimen of the silversmith's art, and that it 
reflects great credit on its designers and makers. It has the 
three handles of a loving cup. measures twelve inches across 
the handles and six and a half inches across the rim. It is a 
gift from William R. Hearst, proprietor of the New York 
Journal and San Francisco Examiner. 



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THE fRWELERS REVIEW 



May 10, 1899 



SPECIAL NOTICES. 

Blatter inierted under this head, 35 cents a line eacb istne. Two insertions, 
accents a line each issue. Four or more insertions, 10 cents a line each issue. 

SITUATIONS WANTBD and HBLP WAHTBD advertisements wiU be in- 
serted for one cent a word. No advertisement under either of these headings 
will be received for less than 35 cents. Cash must accompany order. 

Subscribers may use this department free of charge. 



4- 



BiiiiNm Oprortiiiiitks 

WRITE FULTON & YEAGLEY, ATTORNEYS, DEN- 
TON, TEXAS, if you have notes or claims against Texas 
parties that you desire settled or compromised. 

PARTNER wanted by a manufacturer of rings and diamond 
mountings, who desires to amalgamate with someone who 
has an established business. Advertiser wishes to invest $3,000 
to $4,000 in the business. References exchanged. Address with 
full particulars, JEWELERS REVIEW. 

f ©r Sale 

JEWELRY BUSINESS of fourteen years' standing in same lo- 
cation in a town of 8000 in Western Maryland; cheap rent, 
clean and salable stock, plenty bench work, scarcely any opposi- 
tion; stock and fixtures inventory $1500 to $1800. Can reduce 
stock or sell fixtures only. Reason, want to move South. Ad- 
dress at once S, care Jewelers Review. 

$itiMtioi mamed " 

WANTED by competent man, charge of jewelery repairing 
department, in a store; first-class on diamond mounting 
and setting, and all kinds of fine jewelery repairing. Address 
JEWELER, Jewelers Review. 



I^elp oratited 



WATCHMAKERS, jeweler; plain engraver and graduate 
optician; permanent position at $12.00 per week to start. 
Answer with photo, to Box 123 Royersford, Pa. Experience 
and outfits needed. 



John \V. Andrews, formerly of J. W. Andrews & Co., died on 
Monday, May i at his home in Kirkwood, Mo., at the age of 70. 
He was born in the State of New York. After a number of 
successful business ventures he engaged in the wholesale jewelry 
business in 1880, from which he retired about three years ago. 
His wife, two daughters and a son, Clinton Catlin Andrews, 
survive him. 

Mrs. Freeh, wife of A. Freeh, of The Eisenstadt Jewelery 
Company, died here last week. 

Charles Springer, one of the most prominent citizens of New 
Castle, Pa., died very suddenly last week of an attack of the 
grippe. Mr. Springer has been in the jewelry business in that 
town for more than 25 years. He leaves an estate of $50,000 to 
his widow also his store, stock and fixtures, which his widow 
wishes to sell, and will discontinue the business altogether. 

William J. Donnell, a well-known watch repairer, died at his 
late residence on Wednesday, after a long illness. Mr. Donnell 
had been sick for some months. Deceased was born in Ireland 
54 years ago, his father being an officer in the English army. 
When nine years of age he went to St. John, N. B., with his 
parents and later removed to the United States, settling in Cam- 
bridge. 

The death is reported, in Redlands, Cal., of L Runycon, a well- 
known jeweler of that city. 

TOLEDO NEWS 

TOO LATE FOR CLACSIFICAl ION. 

A wholesale jewelry robbery occurred on Saturday, when the 
residence of John GramHng was entered and a rich haul was 
secured by the thieves. A number of diamond rings and other 
valuables were taken. The amount was about $2000. 

Samuel Snell of this city has just announced that the new Eng- 
lish syndicate to operate the Automatic Glass Blowing Machine 
has been organized and will at once begin operations. The new 
machine was invented and patented at the Libbcy Glass Com- 
pany in this city and will revolutionize the raannfactitre of glass 
tumblers. The machine will turn out 2000 perfect tumblers in 
an hour. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Wadsworth, H. A 58' 

Exhibitors at the Paris Exposition 5^2 

(lold Plate 55?-' 

Scientific and Industrial 58-' 

Experiments for Hard Solder 5^' 

NCetallizing Wood 58-" 

Editorials 583 

Wanted Skilled Craftsmen 5S3 

Clock Manufacturers Amalgamating 5^3 

Exhibits at the Paris Exposition 583 

Jewelers' Security Alliance Annual Meeting.. 584 

A Silver Hvacinth ..;: 5f4 

Congratulations for Lissauer ^: Co 584 

Optics and Opticians .....585 

The Commission Microbe is Evidently Not 

Endemic 586 

Cenr at Bifocals of Different Refractive 

.dices 587 

Wo ing Distances in Skiascopy 588 

Saile for Europe 589 

Midd.c Atftintic State News 590 

New York S>o 

A Correction 59" 

Drunk with a Load of Icwclry 59^ 

Consolidation of the Trade Associations.. 592 

Changes in the Krocber Clock Co 592 

BufTalo 59*' 

Philadelphia , 59^ 

Vagaries of the City Hall Clock .592 

Silver Service for the Kentucky 593 

Pittsburg 593 

H. Terheydcn Acquitted 59J 

Washington 594 

M. J. Russell Acquitted 594 

Baltimore 594 

Trenton r 594 

New England News 59.=^ 

Boston 595 

The Watch Consolidation 595 

The Attlcboros 595 

Providence 595 

Here and There 59^ 

New Business Ventures 596 

Business Troubles 59^ 

Deeds and Mortgages 506 

Bankruptcy .597 

Important Decision 597 

Diamonds and Precious Stones 597 

State of the Foreign Cicm Markets 5Q7 

A Diamond Sawing Machine 507 

Improvements. New Goods and Patents 598 

New Patents Clranted 59'? 

Designs 598 



Review Trade Items 598 

Ceramics 599 

Piercing Majolica and Porcelain 599 

Ceramic Notes 599 

News of the Lake Slates 600 

Chicago 600 

Elgin 602 

Cincinnati ;...;...;...;... ;6o2 

Decision in the Oskamp Case, 602 

Detroit 602 

Canadian News 6oj 

Toronto 602 

Southern and Western News 602 

St. Louis 60J 

Opening of the New Mermod & .laccard 

Store 602 

Kansas City 603 

Louisville 603 

Silver Service for the Kentucky 603 

Minneapolis 603 

Pacific and Rocky Mountain News 603 

San Francisco 603 

Obituarjr 604 

Horological 605 

Horological Progress Excelsior £05 

Clock from the Bcrnal Collection 606 

Cutting Prices 5o6 

A Triumph for American Watches 606 

Making Pinions 6o3 

Economy of Force in the Principal Escape- 
ments 609 

London Process of Wet Coloring 610 

INDEX TO ADVERTISERS. 

Anderson Hotel 594 

ApflFcl. Meigs & Co 589 

Arnstein Bros. & Co 612 

Baccarat Glassware 599 

Barthman, William 612 

Bergen, T. D. & Co 599 

Bloom, E 61 r 

Bowden, J. B 582 

Bowman, E. F 612 

Brown. D. V 587 

Chester Billings & Son 582 

Clewcr, Henry 612 

Cook, Edward N 612 

Davison Bros sq9 

Ducber Watch Case Mfg. Co 585 

Eaton & Glover 589 

Eisler Sc Laubheim (5i2 

Elgin National Watch Co 607 



Fahys Cases 510 

Fera, H yi 

Hamilton Watch Co $09 

Hedges, W. S. & Co ^1 

Hraba, L. W 611 

Jurgensen, J <»8 

Kahn, L. & M., <\£ Co 612 

Kirstein, E., Sons Company 586 

Kohn. Alois & Co 611 

Kramer, H. S ^ 

Lelong & Bro J»^ 

Malliet, C. G. & Co 612 

Mercantile National Bank Sg© 

Meyer, S. S. & Bro 589 

Mount & Woodhull §31 

Munn & Co 6« 

Murine Co 5o9 

New England Watch Co 606 

Northern Illinois College ^ 

New York Mutual Optical Co 5?9 

Oppenheimer Bros. & Veiih 612 

Owens, J. B., Pottery Co S99 

Passmore, Edwin 5^ 

Philadelphia Commercial Museum, The 611 

Reichhelm, E. P.. & Co 612 

Rosenbaum & Addler 6io 

Schluetcr, A. 612 

Schwartx, J. W 611 

Southbridffe Optical Company 587 

Sercomb &. Sperry Co. 4 600 

Special Notices 604 

Spencer Optical Co 612 

Stem Bros »3 

Sumner-Grimes Co m 

Stockwell. E. R- 610 

Towle Mfg. Co fa> 

Victoria Hotel 610 

Waters, John & Son 612 

Wilcoxson, G. F «ii 

William Smith Co iSj 

Willson, H. B., & Co 612 

Wood, C. F.. & Co 612 

Worrell & Fahey 6v 

Zeller. Wolf & Bro J» 

Brown, Toe, Company 6c 

Elgin Horological School 6r 

Schickerling Conrad .- s 

Smith 5 

Schneider, E. 

Tuergens, Anderson 

^Tobfe, F. H.. & Co 

I llinois Watch Case Co 

Goldsmith Bros i • • • • - r'^ v^-^u^^ A v^ 

Digitized by VjOOy IC 



May 10, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



605 




This department is devoted to practical and theoretical articles relating to 
the measurement of time and kindred subjects. In addition to the contributions 
of regular writers, the views of expert horologists will appear from time to time, 
as well as expressions of opinion and Individual experiences of watch, clock and 
chronometer makers. 

Subscribers are invited to send questions on matters on which 
they desire information. These will be answered through our 
columns y which are also open for the ventilation of all phases of 
Horological opinion. 

Communications Should be Addressed Horological Dept., 
The Jewelers Review, 170 & 172 Broadway, New York. 



Henry Ganney Editor. 



Vol. XXXIl 



MAY 10. 1899 



No. 19 



We are told that there is always room at the 
Horological top. Most people believe there is no watch 
Procress equal to a good American for general pur- 

i Excelsior I poses, but there must be a great many who 

believe differently, else we should not see the 
imports of watches (principally Swiss), about 20 per cent, greater 
than the exports of American watches as one-third of the prod- 
uct of Waltham, goes to London and thence is distributed 
through the world. Other American factories have also a large 
foreign trade. It is evident there is still a large trade to be 
had in watches, that is done by foreign manufacturers who 
work under the burden of heavy import duties and carriage and 
agency fees that complicate their trade. The two extremes of 
high and low priced work seem to be held by the foreigner, not 
that the American watches do not go low enough in price. When 
we see real American machine made watches retailed at one dol- 
lar, we reckon the price is low enough to allow a profit that will 
tempt any one to dabble with tme, although watches (so-called) 
at half that price are common enough in Europe. We cannot 
say that America cannot make low priced watches, but when 
we come to watches that form the stock of third and fourth rate 
stores, we find the bulk of their stock to be foreign, and the 
American watch, treated as a special article for which a good 
price is asked and obtained. In ladies' watches of a cheap but 
useful class, the Swiss watch leads. The use of the horizontal 
escapement is partly responsible, as well as the natural taste and 
skill in making cheap gold cases that distinguishes the Swiss. 

In the highest grade of watches (semi-chronometers of the 
Jules Jurgensen class), 30 to 40 years ago, the watches of Jur- 
gensen and the Frodsham of London, used to divide honors in 
American estimation. Jurgensen still holds the field, but the 
London watch seems to have disappeared; at any rate, it is not 
obtruded on our notice in the store windows. There seems no 
real reason for this, as there are several manufacturers, mostly 
Swiss, established in London (who since the passing of the 
trade-mark act, which prevents the sale of Swiss watches as Eng- 
lish) who aided by the Kew certificates of rates, do a very suc- 
cessful business in complicated high-class work. An occasional 
appearance of an English watch in the American market, where 
it was once predominant, would not disturb the horological 
equilibrium, or diminish the enormous output of the factories, 
but might tend to mutual respect. 

The London workmen are unexcelled at fine finish and close 



workmanship. Always much too close when he stuck to his 
fusee; but keyless watches have got him out of that, and 
watches with no room for even a piece of tissue paper between 
center, fourth and scape wheel and balance, are no longer made. 
The English have never made small watches, probably saving 
some reputation thereby, but they have made some fine ones 
and perfected the lever escapement as well. 

When is America going to give us a new escapement or an 
improvement on an old one? The numberless improvements 
and inventions of America are acknowledged by the world; but 
where is the American watch as well as the American system of 
making it? It is probably on the road; in fact, it is due, as none 
of the present experiments quite fulfil the requirements of the 
springs and adjuster of pocket watches, according to recent 
writers on the subject. The importation of a few dozen Eu- 
ropean finishers to finish up the excellent movements of some 
of the American factories in European best style, would dispense 
with much of the high-class European work sold there; if sold 
without the name or reputations of factory or machine work, by 
local magnates in the horological and jewelry trades. These do 
not care to play second fiddle in reputation or importance to 
the manufacturers, many of them now shun American watches, 
as much as possible, preferring to sell watches on their own 
name, or with a contract debarring the European maker with a 
name, from supplying others in the same city. This prevents 
cutting of prices or enjoins rivals from proving how they could 
supply exactly the same watch at much lower price. This is 
the British system of watch selling and has some merits, but 
there are two sides to every question. State jealousy erected all 
the factories that spring from Waltham; this feeling does not 
count, but is repressed when each retailer sells under his own 
name, and there seems an opening for this kind of factory at 
the present time. The manufacturer seems too much in evidence 
for the interests of the horological expert and retailer. At one 
time in England the manufacturer's position seemed very ser- 
vile, crawling about to retailers to get an order for one or two 
watches, and then to be paid in paper promises that had to be 
discounted at an enormous rate after many months* credit. The 
spur to our own efforts to introduce the American system into 
England was given by John Bennett, the notorious watchp;)aker 
of London. The usual crowd of manufacturers, had asloFd us 
to inquire of Sir John when he could see them, as he hapj^ {^ned 
to be then busy gossiping with a lady. She prepared to tove, 
when we gave him the message. "Oh, don't go," he said; "it is 
only a few watch manufacturers who want to see me." The 
reply set us thinking and being fresh from the manufacturing 
and practicing repairing in order to learn in the words of Ben- 
net's lecture which he gave all over the country, "What to make 
and how to make it," we had come to the conclusion that finish- 
ing brass and steel was all one could learn in connection with 
manufacturing and finishing watches, and that horology must 
be studied at the watch repairer's work bench, whence all 
the great horologists have sprung. An interchange of skill be- 
tween the manufacturer and the repairing shop must be main- 
tained if the trade in both branches is to be a permanent success. 
Until the watch exports have secured the same relative posi- 
tion as the exports of American clocks, which are thrice the 
value of foreign imported clocks, it cannot be said that the 
watch manufacture has the same relative position from a com- 
mercial point of view. The imports and exports of jewelry and 
materials show a still greater disparity in favor of the foreign im- 
ports. 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



May 3, i«99 



THE FUSEE 



In these days of "going barrels," the fusee, that arrangement 
so dear to the heart of the English watchmaker, and the cause of 
many a long controversy, is but little understood in its principles 
of construction by the present generation of American watch- 
makers ; and it may be interesting to many to know somewhat of 
the theory of its construction, as being pertinent to a thorough 
knowledge of the business, although not called upon to make a 
fusee. There may be peculiarities of action in a fusee watch that 
would baffle the scrutiny of a modern watchmaker to detect the 
cause of, where he is ignorant of what the fusee would, and 
would not, do under certain circumstances; consequently, it is 
well to know all things as well as to **prove all things." 

The Engli*-h fusee is known to all as a mechanical contrivance 
for equalizing the power of the main-spring as it is delivered to 
the train of the watch. 

The Germans, before the invention of the fusee, used two 
springs, opposing each other in their force, and called "stack 
free," the available force for propulsion being the difference be- 
tween the tension of the two. The theory of the construction is 
based upon knowing the force of both extremes, highest and 
lowest, from which data the diameter of the two extremes of the 
fusee are determined. The increasing tension, as the spring is 
wound, must be counteracted by diminished leverage upon the 
fusee. This diminution must proceed according to some certain 
law, either in straight lines, forming the frustum of a cone, or by 
curves of some order bounding the sides of the figure. This 
curve can be demonstrated mathematically to be a parabolic curve, 
and can be drawn absolutely correct, knowing the extremes of 
tension of the spring, the desired diameter of the fusee at its 
base, and the required height. This cone, when laid out can be 
transferred to brass and used as a pattern to which the fusee must 
be fitted previous to turning the groove for the chain. The 
grooves are then produced by the "fusee engine," a mechanical 
arrangement by which the cutting-tooth is given a motion, both 
in a direction parallel to the axis of the fusee, and also toward 
the center. 

The theory of the fusee is certainly beautifully correct, and 



were the action of springs equally so, there would be nothing left 
to desire in the arrangement, but, unfortunately, a spring has a 
will peculiarly its own — an individuality of action, which necessi- 
tates the construction of a fusee adapted to the peculiar action 
of each spring; and this action is governed by no known law — 
probably has none — but depend upon the peculiarities of construc- 
tion. To adapt the fusee and spring to each other, no possible 
rule can be arranged; patient trial, turn by turn, with the fusee, 
spring-box and chain all in place, and the tension ascertained for 
each turn by the use of the adjusting rod, the grooves deepened, 
wherever the action of the spring demands it — is the only mode of 
perfect adjustment Of course, this process is only resorted to 
in those watches where perfection is expected; ordinarily, the 
theoretical curve will give a fair approximation to the desired end. 
In case the spring is broken, or needs another substituted, perfec- 
tion will demand the recutting of the fusee for the new spring, 
or an entirely new one, in order to adjust it to these new idio- 
syncrasies. 

Simplicity, and, consequently cheapness of construction, is 
another element which largely contributes to the adoption of the 
going barrel With the fusee must be coupled the maintaining 
spring, or as the old English horologists called it, the "forcing 
spring," which somewhat complicates its construction, and con- 
tributes to it many elements of derangement and the necessary 
trouble and expense of repairs. These practical difficulties have 
gradually driven watchmakers to the use of going barrels, which 
permit larger diameters for the spring-box, and consequently, 
longer springs with more turns. The general adoption of jewels 
in all the modern watches greatly diminishes friction, and thinner 
springs can be used, thus affording additional turns to the barrel. 
By the judicious use of stop work, only the middle coils need to 
be used, which give, with tolerable accuracy, the mean tension 
of the main-spring, dispensing with the use of either extreme; 
the trifling errors arising from unequal impulse to the train by 
the modern method, being less than the average errors arising 
from construction when the spring-box, chain and fusee were 
generally used, has given the going barrel a hold upon public 
esteem which the perfect theory, but imperfect execution of the 
fusee, can never attain to. 




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6o8 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



May 10, 1899 



MAKING PINIONS 

Pinions that are well made as to truth of centering, of division, 
of form of leaves, and polish, are, as the trade well knows, ot 
vital importance to the value of the time-piece. 

The making and finishing is one of the most troublesome, as 
well as most expensive of all the processes in watch work. The 
nature of the material renders it difficult, as it approaches so 
nearly in hardness to the tools used in cutting. In the ordinary 
Yankee clock, the lantern pinion has entirely superseded the 
solid leaf, which substitution was the greatest element of suc- 
cess in their cheap construction. The lantern pinion is really 
a nearer approximation to the required anti-frictional form than 
a majority of cut pinions in ordinary clocks. In the process of 
manufacture of the cut variety, the first consideration is the 
quality of the steel to be used. For this purpose it should be 
carefully selected by trial, thus ascertaining its fineness, uni- 
formity, softness when annealed, together with its capacity for 
taking a good temper, with the least amount of springing dur- 
ing the hardening process. Very few pinions are cut from the 
solid piece — the drawn pinion wire being quite good enough, 
when milled and finished, for the ordinary run of watch work. 

The steel wire having been selected, the first process is to cut 
it up into lengths a trifle larger than the required pinion. The 
separated pieces are then centered with care, and having been 
placed in a lathe, the staflF and pivot are turned up to nearly the 
required gauge, leaving a portion of the whole piece the full 
size for the leaves. They are now taken to the milling tool to 
have the proper form given to the leaves. As this form is of the 
highest importance, it may be as well to give here the reasons. 
Supposing a wheel of 60 teeth, depthing into a pinion of 8 
leaves, it can readily be seen that the arc of the motion of the 
wheel tooth is of greater radius than that of the leaf of the pin- 
ion, and it follows that if the teeth and the leaves are made in 
taper form with straight sections, there must occur a sliding mo- 
tion on the surfaces of both — the power thus absorbed being 
totally wasted; but if we curve the surfaces we may approach 
a form so nearly perfect that the wheel teeth, being motors, 
really roll on the leaves, avoiding almost entirely the friction 
caused by sliding; the necessity for this curvature becomes 
greater the more the wheel exceeds the pinion in diameter. 
This curve, which has been demonstrated by very profound 
mathematical researches, is the "epicycloidal" ; theroretically it 
should give no more sliding motion than the surfaces of two 
plain wheels revolving on each other. To obtain this perfect 
form, very great pains have been taken and expenses incurred, 
especially by the makers of the best time-keepers. 

In the American factories the cutters are very elaborately 
made, the section being an object of great solicitude — it being 
an exact counterpart of the space between any two leaves, and 
also of one-half the top of leaf from the curvature to the point, 
so that in milling, the space made by the cutter is its shape, leav- 
ing the leaf of the proper form. Generally the pinion passes 
under two cutters; the first to strike down the rough stock, the 
other to dress it to size and shape, with a light cut. The care 
and skill required to make these is certainly very great, and it is 
a proof of the wonderful ingenuity of man that they are made so 
perfect as to shape and cutting power. 

A very ingenious device is used for dividing the leaves under 
the cutter, which revolves at a moderate speed over a slide, car- 
rying a pair of centers, between which the turned up piece of 
pinion wire is placed. The slide is now pushed up to and under 
the cutter, and in its passage as much of a cut is taken as is de- 
sirable; in drawing back the slide the fresh cut space passes 
under a flat piece of thin steel, screwed on the frame, and set 
at a slight angle to the axis of the centers. On moving the 
slide towards the cutter for a fresh cut, the steel plate takes the 

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last cut, and in passing by it the pinion is turned just as much 
as the angularity of the plate, which must be just one leaf. By 
this very clever device the division is effected without an index 
plate. This process, however, is not good enough for work 
intended to be very accurate — the pinion wire not being always, 
or indeed rarely correctly divided, the original error will be 
perpetuated in all the subsequent processes. These are all 
milled, with oil or soda water for a lubricator, and it follows 
that the speed of the cutter is regulated to get the greatest cut 
without dulling the tool. When dull, however, the mill is 
sharpened on the face of the cutting tooth by means of small 
grinders of iron, using Arkansas oil-stone dust for the first 
grinding, and giving the necessary delicacy of the edge by 
means of crocus, or sharp, followed, when fine work is needed, 
by rouge. 

It is necessary that this care should be taken, for if the edge 
is left coarse it will become speedily dulled, and leave a very 
unequal and rough surface on the cut of the pinion, which in the 
subsequent grinding gives rise to error in shape and size The 
pinions, thus cut to gauge, are dried in sawdust, hardened and 
tempered; the staff and pivots are now turned up to size, and 
then pass to the polishers. In the factory they are finished by 
means of what are called Wig- Wags, which it may be interest- 
ing to the reader to have a general description of. 

Two Vs are arranged as centers, the pinion is placed between 
them, the circular parts resting in each V, but free to turn on its 
own axis. Immediately above the Vs is a frame on which a 
slide, carrying the polisher, may traverse — generally about two 
inches. This slide is movable vertically so as to accommodate 
itself to the pinion; attached to the slide is a connection which 
leads to a vertical lever, which is put in motion from a crank 
.on the counter shaft. The grinding is effected by bringing the 
grinder, charged with oil-stone dust in oil, in one of the spaces 
of the pinion, which, of course, is so arranged as to bring it 
parallel and central with the grinder. The power being applied, 
the slide takes a very rapid reciprocatory motion, and the face 
of the grinder, so charged, rapidly reduces the uneven surface 
left by the cutter to what is called the gray. 

The form of this grinder must be as perfect as the cutters, and 
the care taken to get the requisite parallelism is in equal pro- 
portion, and in all the best polishers is planed up while in its 
position. The grinder is composed of tin and lead, with some- 
limes a slight admixture of antimony, rolled to an even thick- 
ness, cut off in suitable lengths, and then mounted in the carrier 
of the Wig-Wag to be planed up to shape. There are too many 
minute adjustments in this machine to render a full description 
in this article admissable. It is large compared with the work it 
has to perform, but it is very admirably made, as indeed all the 
tools are, in the American factories. 

The polishing of the leaves is the next step, and this is effected 
by means precisely the same as grinding. In each stage the 
pinions are thoroughly cleansed before entering on another. The 
polisher is made precisely like the grinder; but instead of oil- 
stone dust, crocus mixed with oil is substituted. Owing to the 
less cutting quality of the material used, the polisher loses its 
form sooner that the grinder, and has to be more frequently re- 
shaped. In very fine work the crocus is succeeded by fine well- 
levigated rouge to bring up that jet black polish which is consid- 
ered a mark of quality by chronometer and watch makers. 

With the exception of turning up the staff and pivots, all the 
work hitherto described has been expended on the leaves — a 
very tedious process, yet done, when the tools and materials are 
in proper order, with marvelous rapidity; but tedious as these 
have been, there are two others quite as much so before the 
leaves are finished. 

The ends are to be faced — they must be flat (that is a true 
plane) and receive the same finish that the leaves took, and it is 
effected by the Wig- Wag; only the pinion revolves between cen- 
ters, at a high speed, the grinder being brought up to the turned 
face. Two motions operate — one rectilinear, the other circular — 
the result being a compound motion which prevents the grinder 
from touching the ?a»ne spot twice in -accession. To effect this 
more surely, tL. • ; /or k:vi's t^ic grinder a slight vibratory 
vtTtirdl '.r ♦ion r ' ol na </* the two faces is effected the 
s .ine a^ the >f. jiuu'''-! ; '' '^ Uiccutting face of the grinders 

iMfl pv.li.iurs being ^op^ n -• pK.ne perpendicular to the axis of 
the pinion, both vertical and 1 orizontal. 

The staffs and pivots InMni^ j.\ the same condition they came 
from the lathe, the nextrht**p- n^' S"^''^ and polish them. Be- 
fore, however, we treat on Si*, :rocci<5. it may not be amiss to 
give the general watch repai. t a,j>roc by which this facing 
may be done on a small scale. 

(To be continur*^.! 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



609 



ECONOMY OF FORCE IN THE PRINCIPAL ESCAPE- 
MENTS 

BY J. HERRMANN^ LATE TEACHER OF HOROLOGY AT HOROLOGICAL IN- 
STITUTE AND POLYTECHNIC SCHOOL, LONDON. 

The grand problem of Scientific and Practical Horology, is 
Motion vs. Time; and as time means duration it may be called 
Motion for the measurement of Duration. This problem, 
which is solved by the circumgyration of our planet, we are 
attempting to imitate by the pendulum and balance wheel. 

The great drawback to all mechanical motion, and especially 
to accuracy of motion, is resistance by pressure; the more we 
can overcome this the better we shall succeed; but I fear it can 
never be disposed of. When we set a pendulum or balance in 
motion, we impart a momentum. By observing the arcs de- 
scribed, we find that each one is less than the preceding one. If 
it were not for the resistance no diminution would take place, 
and consequently they would go on forever. This decrease in 
the arcs of the pendulum or balance is the measurement of the 
momentum expended in overcoming resistance. This proves to 
us that just as much momentum requires to be imparted, as is 
absorbed in overcoming resistance. It is not my business now 
to discuss the nature of balance resistance; it is an existing fact 
which no watchmaker will dispute. My duty is to examine the 
contrivance by which the resupplying is effected, namely, the 
escapement. 

In connecting the escapements with the balance or pendulum, 
there is one other unfortunate fact entering into calculations — 
a fact which no horologist has been able to dispose of yet; the 
balance has either to unlock the motive power to receive the im- 
pulse, as in the chronometer, lever, remontoir, and gravity es- 
capements, or it has to sustain the pressure of the motive power, 
as in the duplex, horizontal, and Graham; and in some it has 
even to overbalance this force as in the verge and clock escape- 
ments. This duty of the balance has, therefore, to be added to 
the other resistance which must be put in account against the 
momentum. 

Treating of the escapement in relation to this task it has to 
perform, I advance the following propositions as the basis of my 
remarks : 

First. The impulse should be given to the balance in such 
a manner that no extra pressure is created thereby. 

Second. The unlocking should offer the least possible resist- 
ance to the balance; and as the force transmitted to the escape- 
ment has to be equal to the impulse, plus the force expended in 
overcoming resistance in the escapement itself, and as the 
presence of pressure requires a proportionate supply of force, 
and the action and reaction of such force will create a propor- 
tionate variation in the impulse and unlocking, I propose. 

Third. That all resistance by pressure should be reduced to 
a minimum in the escapement, in order to dispense with every 
excess of force. 

It is in reference to this third and last proposition that I apply 
the term "Economy of Force." It must, therefore, be under- 
stood in a negative sense: a measured effect with a minimum 
cause. We have to consider the escapements separate and dis- 
tinct machines, with a view to elicit the conditions upon which 
they will yield the greatest possible result with the least amount 
of supply. 

By the principal escapments, I mean those which are most ex- 
tensively applied, rather than those which give the best results, 
and they may be arranged in three classifications, according to 
the three distinct properties they possess, viz. : 

First. Arrangement of their mechanism. 

Second. Their geometrical disposition and proportions. 

Third. Their mechanical elements and results. 

With regard to the first, I must take for granted that all are 
acquainted. The second, although not the direct subject for 
discussion, is yet, to a great extent, involved in the third and 
last, as the one of which I have principally to treat. Before we 
can analyze the escapements, as to their mechanical composition 
and transmittance of force, we must first ascertain what mechani- 
cal elements are. and the propenL *hey possess. 

The simplest instruments by which any force i" communicated 

from one point to another, so as to set in motion any other 

body acted on by another force are cords, rods, and hard 

planes; and the simplest combinatir- of Ljch instruments are 

called mechanical powers. Strictly ^re^are only two, the lever 

and the inclined plane; but these -.re rfgain subdivided into six, 

nd sometimes seven, viz., the lever, wheel and axle, toothed 

' el. pulley, inclined plane, wedge, and screw. The first 

are modifications of the lever, and the last three of the in- 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



May 10, 1899 



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clined plane; and any form of mechanism, no matter how simple 
or how complicated, be it the verge escapement or Mr. Babage's 
calculating machine, must be composed of these elements, and 
can possess no others; and hence we must necessarily first seek 
their acquaintance; but I shall only speak of the definitions of 
the form in which they are employed in the principal escape- 
ments. 

The lever is a mechanical element extensively applied in all 
escapements, of which there are three orders. The first order 
comprises all levers which have the power and weight on the 
ends, and the fulcrum, or center oi motion, somewhere between 
them. The second, those which have the fulcrum on one end, 
the power on the other, and the weight somewhere between the 
power and fulcrum. The third, those which have the fulcrum on 
one end, the weight on the other, and the power somewhere be- 
tween the fulcrum and weight. The length of the lever arms is 
measured by the distance of the points of application of the 
power or weight from the fulcrum, and the weight and power. 
regardless of the order of lever are inversely proportioned to the 
length of lever arms. 



C. F. MILLIOAV 
PRAVK UPMAK 



LONDON PROCESS OF WET COLORING 

Gold alloy of not less than 15 karats in quality may be made to 
assume the appearance of very fine gold, of a beautiful straw 
color, by boiling in the following preparation for a short time. 
Take : — 

Nitrate of potassa 15 ozs. 

Common salt 7 " 

Alum 7 " 

Spirits of salts i oz. 

30 ozs. 

Reduce the above salts as in the preceding case to a fine pow- 
der; then take a large blacklead color pot about eight inches 
high, and seven inches across the top; No. 16 size of Doulton's 
make; put about two spoonfuls of water at the bottom; then add 
the saltpetre, alum, and salt; place on the fire, and very slowly 
dissolve and boil up, stirring well with a wooden spoon. Take 
the work, which has been well prepared by annealing and boil- 
ing out in aquafortis pickle, and suspended upon fine platinum 
wire; put it into the mixture for five minutes, and at the expira- 
tion of that time withdraw and rinse well in clean boiling water, 
then add the spirits of salts to the mixture in the pot; when it 
again boils up, put the work in for four minutes longer, and 
again rinse in fresh boiling water. Now add one spoonful of 
water and when it boils up again put in the work for three min- 
utes longer, and again rinse; next add two spoonfuls of water to 
the mixture in the pot; when it boils put the work in for two 
minutes, and again rinse. Lastly, thin the color with about 
three spoonfuls of water, and when it boils up again, put in the 
work for one minute longer, well rinse in plenty of clean boiling^ 
water and the work is then done, and of a very beautiful color. 
Finish as usual. 

This process is recommended when it is required that the color 
should wear well; it will also produce a beautiful color if prop- 
erly attended to, and these instructions are carefully carried out. 
It was regularly practiced in London by most goldsmiths for a 
number of years witli great success. It should not, however, be 
used for a lower standard of gold than 15 karats. The propor- 
tion given will color ten ounces of solid gold chains, and about 
five ounces of jeweler's work, which latter is generally of a 
bulky nature, having large surfaces. The solder used upon the 
work must be very good to be nicely colored by this process. 
Some goldsmiths have strongly recommended the cjnployment 
of common salts for plugging the work into, after the last dip in 
coloring as means of neutralizing the effects of any acid likely to 
be retained upon the articles. Others have advised the use of 
soda and potash solutions as substitutes for ale, in scratch-brush- 
ing. We may remark that we have tried these things, as well as 
several others we could mention tending in the same direction, 
but cannot say that we ever derived any great advantage from 
the use of them. The loss by this process of coloring will aver- 
age about one pennyweight per ounce of work submitted to the 
action of the mixture. Time occupied in coloring, fifteen min- 
utes. Gold workers are exposed to several pernicious vapors in 
the exercise of their trade, by far the worst being that which 
arises during the process of wet-coloring; from the action of the 
spirits of salts upon the work and the other ingredrients. Th' 
effluvia arising therefrom, in badly constructed workrooms, p*^ 
duces great distress to the operator, affecting the head- 
stomach, and the whole nervous system. When the abov 
plete present themselves, a good drink of new milk w»* 
teract the evil. Digitized by VnOOQLC 



May 10, 1899 



THE lEWELERS REVIEW 



Thomas H. Wobbsxx. 



Jin n<»0ootf$ 



BuBBBT A. Fajbt. 



WORRELL ft FAHEY 

DUMOWls atd otttr PrtciMU Stouts 

Watches and Fine Jewelry 
9, U & 13 lilaiden Lane, New York 

ALO:S KOHN & CO. 

BtoMMfacnirm Of S olid Qold CbaittS 

LDRQNtTTtS AND GUARDS A SPECIALTY. 

4 M MDEN LANE, NEW YORK. 



Tine Ceatber Goods 



611 

Exclusively lor tlie 
Jewelry Trade jMJt 



Artistic Gold and Silver Mountings. Rare Skins. 
New nnishes and Colors. 

LOUIS W. HRABA 



Manufacturer. 



Everything in Pocketbooks. 

Card Cases. Toilet Cases, Dressing 

Rolls, Bags, Belts, Etc, Etc. 



29 East IPth St., NEW YORK. 

EtUbllthed 1879. 



DIAMOND PAPERS and SUPPLIES 

And Jobber in 

JEVELRY CARDS, TAGS AND TISSUE PAPER. 



Romovod from 66 to 9 ialden Lane, 



aiLL 

BUILDINQ. 



no doubt you know what you do nol want, 

but perhaps you may not know what you do want. 

I have had experience, 

am said to have ability — and 

am at your service — for a reasonable consideration. 

J. W. SCHWARTZ, 

all sorts of Room 905, Tempk Court, 

commercial literature. NEW YORK* 



ttbe Ipbilabelpbia Commetdal flDuscum, 

2)t* TlOlfUfam p* TRnflsottt Bftectott 



Supplies DETAILED, SPECl^IO INFOBICATION oonoerning the 
TRADE CONDITIO Ni of the WORLD'S MARKETS. 



It tells WHERE THE MARKE*rS ARE 
and by whom supplied. 

Who the RESPONSIBLE BUYERS ARB» 
and HOW TO REACH THEM. 



Xtoan asoertain FOR YOU the particular REQUIREMENTS of any or all 
markets in THE LINE OF GOODS YOU MAKE. 



JEWELERS. 

Cushman Building, 
\ Maiden Lane 



Finest Location in New York, 
Rcn^s Reasonable ^ J^ ^ ^ 
Apply 

G. R WILCOXSON, 

172 Ninth Avenue, or on Premises. 



It has inaugurated a most valuable method of REGISTERINQ AMERICAN 
MANUFACTURERS in Foreign Countries by means of 



Catb f nber filc^ 



PLACED IN THE CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE IN FORTY-FIVE OF 
THE PRINCIPAL COMMERCIAL CENTERS OF THE WORLD. 



This is a movement in the Interest of American Commeroe with which 
TOU SHOULD BE IDENTIFIED. 



Write for particulars to 



Vbe pbtlabelpbta Comtnetctal Auseum, 

>%) «ont(t ffottttb fftieet. PMIadclpbta. pa. 




The Cushmt. 



n Buildinr, Broadway anKi '^''j'^J^Yt I /> 

Digitizsrfby VnOOp^lC 



6l2 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



May 10, 1899 






mm 



mm 



CHAS. R WOOD & CO., DIAMONDS 



IMPORTERS AND CUTTERS 



1 MAIDEN LANE. NEW YORK 



HENRY 0. CLEWER, 

Polisher and Capper 
of fine 3ewelry. 

METAL LAPPING IN ALL ITS VARIED 
STYLES. 

FACETING A SPECIALTY. 

Satin and English Finish, Etruscan and Roman 

Color, Bright Plating and Silvering, 

Oxidizinif, etc. All Work 

Guaranteed. 

80 NASSAU ST., NEW YORK. 

PrtrtMJK Copied on ftPatches. 

$1.25 

We pay Return 
Depress 
Charges. 

Best Finish. 

Guaranteed 
Durable. 

We have made price consistent with A-No. 1 
work as low as possible. We allow nothing but 
first-class portraits to leave our place. Our work 
is guaranteed not to Fede or Peel Oil. 

TRY US, YOU WILL BE SATISFIED. 

WILLIAM BARTHMAN. 2A Maiden Lane, N. Y. 
First-class Work at Moderate Prices 

EVERYTHING IN 

Engraving, Die Sinking and Tool Making 

Experienced Workmen. 12 Years* Experience. 




A. SCHLEUTER & CO. 



363 Market Street, 



NEWARK, N. J. 



PATENTS 



Qiiicklj secured. OUR PEE DFB WHEN PATENT 
OBTAINED. Send model, eket^jh or photo, with 
description for free report as to paten tabilitv. 48-PAQE 
HAND -BOOK FREE. Crm tains references and fall 
information. WRITE FOR COPT OF OTTR SPECIAL 
OFFER. It is the most lil»erftl firoiHinition ever made by 
A patent Attorney, and EVERT INVENTOR SHOULD 
READ IT befura applying for patent. Addreu : 

H.B.WILLSON£CO. 

PATENT LAWYERS, 

LeDroitBidir., WASHINGTON, O. O. 



FALL LINES NOW READY. 

SPECIALLY QOOD THINGS 
IN PENDANTS, 

EISLER & LAUBHEIM, 

87 MAIMN UNE, NEW YORK. 

Special Order Work. 

Fine Diamond Vfountings and Jewelry. 



C.G.MALLIET&GO. 

Diamond Cutters 

14 Maiden Lane 

NEW YORK 



London, 
50 Holborn VUducU 



Amsterdam, 
2 Tulpstraat* 



50 YEARS' 
EXPERIENCE 




Trade Marks 

Designs 
Copyrights &c. 

Anvone sending a sUetrh and descriptioTi may 
quickly Jt!*cert«ln our opinion free whether an 
Invention is probably pnten table, rommuuica- 
tions strictly conHdentlal. Handbook on Patenta 
sent free. Oldest agency for gecurinRpatents, 

Patents taken thro ugh Munn & Co. receive 
special notice, without cbarpe, iu the 

Scientific JInierican. 

A handsomely illustrated weekly. I.nrjrest ctr- 
culatlon of any scientific journal. Terms. $3 a 
vear; four months, $1. Sold by all newsdealers. 

MUNN fiCo-'^'^-"-'- New York 

Branch Office, 625 F St., Washington. D. C. 



Try Us on your Old Gold and Silver 

We think we can do better by you than has 
been done; at any rate we'll guarantee prompt 
returns and fair treatment. 

JOHN WATERS' SON 

Gold and Silver Refiner 
Assayer and Sweep Smelter 
Fine Gold, Rolled and Granulated 
Silver a Specialty ^ ^ ^ /# 



J2 DUTCH ST*, NEW YORK. 



...50METHINU NBW... 

LENTILENE 

AN EYE GUSS CLEANER 

An ideal preparation for the 
immediate restoration of lenses 
to their original brilliancy and 
smoothness. Contains nothing 
injurious. One bottle will last a 
long time. 

Price, $1.50 per doz.; $43.00 per gross 




The S S Auto-adjustable and 
Triple-bearing Eye Glass Guard 

tThe only guard that 
can be adjusted to fit any 
nose. It has but one un- 
interrupted surface with 
three points of bearing, 
which more evenly dis- 
tributes the pressure 
element, and may be dis- 
posed of ^ evenly and 
speedily with no other 
tools than the -hand. 

SPENCER OPTICAL MFQ, CO. 
IS Maiden Lane 




THE EZRA F. BOWMAN TECHNICAL SCHOOL 

IncorporatlnK the American HorolOBloal Institute. 



This is a School for the 
thorough teaching of... 



Watchmaking and Engraving 



Our students are enabled to GET and HOLD positions. If you want to increase your money-tuning 
capacity, write for terms and informaiion. EZRA F. BOWNIAM, Manaqer. Lancaster. Pa. 



...NOISELESS BLOWERS... 



R R REICHHELM & CO/S 

JEWELERS' TOOL DEPOT, 

23 John St., NEW YORK. 

Try Genuine Guinea Gold Alloy. 

SEAMLESS WIRE 

IN ALL SIZES AND QUALITIES 

Manufactured by 

EDWARD N. COOK. 

Geld and Silver Rolled Plate. "Aluminum Solder." 

144 PINE STREET, PROVIDENCE, R. I. 



A >>>>> >>>>>>>> > ■ >>>>>>>>>>>> 



REPAIRING 
AMERICAN WATCHES. 






A prize essay on the repair of all ^^ 

kinds of American watches as car- ^^ 

>r 
ned on by the best watchmakers of >r 

the present day. ^^ 

2J^O«9 post free, from 

THE JEWELERS REVEW, | 

170 Broadway, New Yort. 

>>>>>>> >>> >>>>>>>> > >>>> >>>■ 



OppeDheimeF |fo8. & leM, 



Cutters DIAMONDS Importers 

NASSAU & JOHN (Prescott Building), NEW YORK* 2 Tulip St., Amsterdam, 45 Holbora Viaduct, London 

_.,..„,_ niniTi7Hdhv^700gle 

|jiai5iil;l:i:iiiii:ia:i 



1 



COLD & SILVER REriNFRS 




Volume XXXII 



NEW YORK, MAY 17, 1899 



No. 20. 



DAVID N. SMITH 

The firm of William Smith 
& Co., chain manufacturers, 
of the Gill Building, 9, 11 
and 13 Maiden Lane, is one 
of those which has a history 
of nearly 40 years. It was 
founded in 1865 by William 
Smith, who gained his ex- 
perience in the jewelry trade 
with the firm of A. Brown & 
Co., of Providence, in which 
he became a partner. When 
that firm was dissolved, he, 
in company with his brother 
John, and O. C. Lentz, start- 
ed the firm of William Smith 
& Co., of Providence. In 
1867 a New York office was 
opened at 66 Nassau street, 
which was subsequently 
changed to 14 John street, 
which remained for ten years 
the address of the firm. Bus- 
iness steadily increased, and 
the next move was to 25 
Maiden Lane, and then to 
No. 33. Here the firm re- 
mained some time, till in 
May, 1898, a move was made 
to the present location at 9, 
II and 13 Maiden Lane. 
During this period the fac- 
tory has been continued at 
Providence, where at the 
present time the firm cm- 
ploys about 150 hands. In 
1883 John Smith and O. C. 
Lentz withdrew, and the firm 
was reorganized, William 
Smith taking as partners his 




DAVID NIVEN SMITH, 

OF WILLIAM SMITH ft CO. 



two sons, David N. and 
William, Jr. David Niven 
Smith, wliose portrait ap- 
pears on this page, was born 
at Providence in 1854, the 
same year in which his father 
entered business. In 1870, 
when his father and family 
removed to New York, he 
entered the office of the firm 
in that city. Beginning at the 
foot of the ladder, he worked 
his way steadily up, and after 
a time went on the road as 
salesman for the firm. His 
father having ample evidence 
of his son's capacity for man- 
agement, gradually laid more 
and more the burden of the 
business on his son's shoul- 
ders, and after William 
Smith's death, David N. be- 
came the senior partner of 
the firm. It is interesting 
to note, too, that on Mr. 
Smith's death, his son, 
though at that time quite a 
young man, filled his father's 
unexpired term of office as 
president of the Jewelers' 
Board of Trade. This. is an 
indication of the esteem in 
which he was held by the 
trade, and is only one of 
many offices he has filled in 
the trade organizations, not- 
ably in the Jewelers' League, 
in which he is to-day one of 
the Executive Committee. 
In 1890 Mr. Smith married 
Miss Nettie D. Moore, and 



(?- (§^ (^ 



...DIAMONDS 



Wm. S, Hedges & Co. 

Importers ... 

Diamonds and Precious Stones 
1 70 Broadway, New York 

27 Hoi born Viaduct, London. 



(^ (?. e. 



Diamond Jewelry 



Mount & Woodhull 

FORMERLY WITH LATE FIRM OF 

RANDEL, BAREMORE & BILLINGS, 

Importers of 

DIAMONDS-^^ 

Other Precious Stones, Pearls, Etc. 

Makers of Fine Diamond Jewelry 

26 MAIDEN LANE 
(Southwest corner Nassau Street) 

NEW YORK 



JOHN C. MOVNT 
ADDISON W. WOOD HULL 



FOR TABLE OF CONTENTS AND INDEX TO ADVERTISERS SEE PAGE 636. 



Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



6i4 



THE JEWELERS RE\ lEW 



May 17, 1899 



ESTABLISHED 1840. 



Qiester Billings & Son 

SaeoetMrt U RANDEL, BAREIORE & BILUN68 

IMPORTERS OP 

DIAMONDS 

1840 lANnEL * BMEMORE. Qtbor PrecUM SttHM tHd Poarlt 

1866 RANDEL, BAREMORE * CO. rrwip.. ot«.v« «.« r««ri« 

1880 RANDEL, BAREMORE * BILLINOS. 



SSNamus Street, 

29 Maiden Lane^ 22 Hblboni Viaduct, 
mmw YORK. LomooN, «.o. 



DIAMOND j» 
j» JEWELRY 



J. B. BOWDEN. 



M. L. BOWDEN 



J. B. BOWBEN & CO. 

Makers of FINGER RINGS 

OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. 
1 NlAIDEN LANE, 

Cc^ BROADWAY. N E\Al^ VO R K. 

A Superb Line of First Quality 

...OPAL RINGS 

New and Attractive Mcufitings in Various Combinatiofis* 

X4r ALLSOPP BROS., 

Tr«]«M.rk. RING MAKERS. 

eo McWhorter Street, - - NEWARK, N. J. 

is to-day the father of two children. He is a member of the 
Anglo-Saxon Lodge, No. 137, F. & A. M. 



SOENTinC AND INDUSTRIAL 

Oar object under thie head is not to deal with Sdentillc matten in an ab« 
stract or theoretical way, hut to give such particnlare of Soientillc facts as may 
be capable of adaptation to practical indostrial uses. We shall point oat, too, 
new developments and improvements in Scientiflc matters which win be nsefol 
to the craftsmaa and manofactarer, whUu the Indastrial side of this department 
will ineinde notices of new tools, machinery and appliances. At an times we 
Shan weiccaie oommanicatiaas from oar readers who may have sagcestions to 
•ffer on this head* 

A BIT OF CHARCOAL 
The other day some bright, practical men were talking about 
the effects of carbon in steel. After discussing carbon in its 
various percentages and conditions, one of the company said to 
his companion: "Tom, I don't know a continental thing about 
carbon, do you? What is it, and what has it got to do with steel 
anyway?" Tom is not the only one who is mystified. The 
bicycle rider asks the same question, for he too is puzzled. He 
is told that a thin tube of fifty carbon steel is stronger than a 
thick tube of twenty-five carbon steel, and he wants to know 
what carbon has to do with it. Every day Tom is doing his 
level best to burn up in his forge fire a considerable quantity of 
carbon, and he succeeds. He even sets at work a powerful blast 
of air to make it burn the fiercer; while the bicycle folk also, 
whenever they take a spin or go on a scorcher, convert much 
carbon, combined with good, wholesome oxygen, into the per- 
fect product of combustion, carbon dioxide. Charcoal is the 
carbon that Tom is burning up, and it is the element which, in 
this or other form, turns itron into steel with all the possibilities 
of that strange metal. To convert iron into steel, the quantity 
required of the apparently inert, yet potent, charcoal is surpris- 
ingly small. Fifty carbon steel means that one-half of one per 
cent, is carbon and ninety-nine and one-half per cent, is iron — 
excluding from the computation some small quantities of other 
elements — while twenty-five carbon means that only one-quarter 
of one per cent, is carbon. That so small a quantity of carbon 



suffices is less surprising, however, if it be remembered that the 
action of minute quantities, or of even mere traces, of foreign 
matter upon masses is, as Roberts-Austen points out, a wide- 
spread principle of nature. "The single grain of powder which 
Raymond Lully said would transmute millions of its weight of 
lead into gold; the single grain of stone which Solomon Tris- 
mosin thought would secure perpetual youth, had their analogue 
in the small amount of plumbago, which, to Bergman's aston- 
ishment, in the eighteenth century, converted iron into steel." 
When steel is heated and cooled at differing rates and tempera- 
tures — ^the thermal treatment — carbon asserts its presence, and 
so freely changes its condition from one form to another, back 
and forth, that an eminent scientist has aptly termed it a **pro- 
tean" element, from the name of the mythological god, Proteus, 
who was credited with the faculty of assuming different shapes. 
The bit of charcoal has "endowed the iron with life," for now it 
can take temper; can bend and writhe and twist and straighten 
itself; can hold an edge* as keen as Siegrfried's magic !?word; can 
be as soft as lead or hard as adamant; can strengthen itself 
mightily within its limit by every increase of the potent char- 
coal, and decimal twenty-five easily gives place to decimal fifty 
at two-thirds the weight. But how and why? There are many 
theories, but no one can certainly tell. It is as mysterious as is 
that mighty power, which, though invisible, can nevertheless be 
reeled from the coils of a dynamo and used to light our cities 
and run our trains. 

AURIFEROUS WATER 

A very remarkable invention has recently been reviewed 
by Richard Zgigmondy, in "Liebig's Annalen der Chcmie." It 
is not "gold water" (Dantzic brandy), as manufactured in Dant- 
zic, but real water in which gold is contained in a dissolved state. 
Heretofore only a simple means of dissolving gold was known, 
a mixture of hydrochloric acid and nitric acid, which, owing to 
its action on the king of metals, bears the name of aqua regi^ 
That it would be possible to dissolve gold in simple water could 
be presumed, since only a short time ago the American chemist, 
Carey Lea, had succeeded in dissolving silver in water, experi- 
ments which, by the way, are said to have been used by Professor 
Emmens for producing gold from silver. The experiment for 
the production of an aqueous gold solution must be conducted in 
an exceedingly careful manner and strictly according to direc- 
tions. It consists mainly in that a strongly diluted boiling and 
feebly alkaline solution of auric chloride is mixed with a certain 
quantity of formaldehyde solution. The liquid first turns a mag- 
nificent pale-red and finally a deep red. If this experiment is to 
be successful, the distilled water especially should be perfectly 
pure. The larger the gold percentage of the fluid, the darker 
will be the red color. The presumption is that the gold is con- 
tained in the water in the so-called collodial state, since the lat- 
ter cannot be passed through a membrane. That the gold is 
really dissolved in the water could be made evident above all 
doubt. The gold can be precipitated from the solution by va- 
rious salts, acids and alkalies. If the liquid is evaporated, the 
gold remains on the bottom of the vessel m tlic form of a bright 
metallic coating. Remarkable is the circumstance that after 
standing for one or two weeks fungous threads of mold will form 
on gold solutions, which, under the microscope with reflected 
light, have the appearance of a goldwire gauze. While other- 
wise gold has a great tendency to combine with quicksilver, this 
is not the case in the aqueous gold solution. 
SOLDERING ALUMINUM 

F. George, of Brussels, has studied a process for soldering 
aluminum, for which he has been allowed a patent. A bath is 
first prepared consisting of one part sea salt (chloride of sodium) 
and two parts essence of turpentine or of any other hydro car- 
bide, whether isomeric or not, and in this latter case the propor- 
tions are modified in such a manner as to always obtain the same 
quantity of carbon combined in contact with the chloride o! 
sodium. Heat the parts to be soldered to a dull red and then 
temper them in the bath described above. The object of this 
tempering is to modify the molecular condition of the metal 
and to prepare it to receive the solder. After such tempering 
the parts to be soldered are lightly powdered with borax, and 
aluminum in a state of fusion is interposed. After cooling, the 
parts are perfectly soldered. 

To Stain Mother of Pearl. — Same must first be treated with 
lukewarm potash solution, whereby the adhering grease is re- 
moved and it is rendered fit for taking the stain. After that, pre- 
pare a concentrated aqueous solution of aniline color, immerse the 
mother of pearl, and place the whole in a warm place. The deeper 
the coloring is desired to penetrate the mother of pearl, the 
longer it must remain in the stain, for only after some time it 
can be assumed with certainty that the desired color has entered 
deep enough. 



Digitized by 



i^oogle 



May 17, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



615 




(.Bntered at the Post Office in the City of New York as second-class matter.] 



THOMAS JACOB, Editor and Pnblisher. 



Address all Communications to Thb Jewelers Review, 

170 AND 173 Broadway, Cor. Maiden Lane, New York;. 

Telephone, 216 Cortlanot. 



Vol. XXXII 



MAY 17. 1899 



No. 20 



NOTICE 

In answer to the many ktteiB received at tliit office^ and to save tin- 
necessary correspondence and delay, we wish to state that this paper 
has no connection whatever with J. J. Fogerty or with Foj^^rty's 
Jewflers Directory. 

The Jewe.ers Rev.ew is isi>ued regnilarly every week and will put forth 
every effort to furnish the best and latest news and intormation concerning 
jewelers, gold and silversmiths, horologists, opticians ani allied industries. 
Persons interested in the^e tradtrs will confer a great favor by sending us 
the news of their localities anitbeir views respecting the manufacture or 
treatment of any articles in the above lines. It is absolutely necessary 
that the name and address of the writer should accompany each communi- 
cation, not necessarily for publication but as a guarantee of good faith. 

Correspondents asking questions requiring answers through the col- 
umns of the Jewelers Review will state the information desired plainly 
and in as few words as po«c ible. All answers will be published as promptly 
as the nature of the enquiry and the pressure of business will permit. Read- 
ers need have no hesitancy in asking questions on any subject in which they 
are interested consistent with the nature of this publication. 



SUBSCRIPTION RATES 

Two Dollars per annum in advance. One Dollar for six months, postage 
prepaid to any point in the United States, Mexico or Canada. Single 
copies ten cents each. 

Poreign Sobscrlptloaa — To countries within the postal union, postage pre- 
paid. Three Dollars and Fifty Cents per annum in advance. 

Subscribers changing their address should state the old one as well as the 
new to insure proper delivery of the paper. 



THE JEVELERS REVIEV ABROAD 

Copies of this paper can be found in Europe at Holborn Viaduct and the 
Royal Hotels, London. Herald office and hotels L'Athenee and Grand 
Terminus, Paris The Amstel Hotel, Amsterdam, St. Antoine and the 
Continental Hotels, Antwerp. 



ADVERTISING RATES 

will be furnished on application. Under the new management 
the circulation of The Jewelers Review has steadily increased 
until it practically covers the entire jewelry and allied trades. 
Advertisers will find that there is no better medium to reach the 
trade than The Jewelers Review. 

Advertisements to insure insertion in the next issue should 
reach this office not later than Saturday. 

COMMUNICATIONS SOUCITBD 

Space will always be reserved in the Jewelers Review for news items of 
iatereat to the trade, such as changes in place of business, co-partnerships, 
dissolutions and the movements of traveling representatives and buyers. 

Jewelers contemplating a trip to New York can have their mail ad- 
dressed to this office, where it will be held until called for. or forwarded 
to any other address if desired. 



The National Monthly Summary of Corn- 
Some merce and Finance for the United States con- 
Encouraging tains figures which should bring encourage- 
Figures ment to the hearts of the jewelry, watch and 
clock trades. In the nine months preceding 
and ending with last March, clocks and watches to the value of 
$1,218,394 were exported, showing an excess over the corre- 
ponding nine months, ending March, 1898, of $109,196. During 
the same period there was an exportation of jewelry and other 
manufactures of gold and silver to the value of $497,083, an ex- 
cess of $57,505 over the same period of 1898. The exportation of 
similar merchandise of foreign manufacture aggregated $69,578 
last year, an excess of $54*220. The imports of clocks, watches 
and parts footed up $921,541, an excess in value of $241,238. The 
imports of manufactures of jewelry and precious stones gave a 
total of $11,188,989, a surplus over the previous year of $2,810.- 
754. The imports of precious stones (free) reached the sum of 
$2,441,027, an excess of $I55.300. The importations of jewelry 
and precious stones (dutiable) from various countries reached 
$8»747»962, an excess of $2,655,874. These figures give what has 
been so long anxiously waited for, a substantial increase that 
shows, by an infallible barometer, that the upward turn in trade 
has begun, not with a feeble spurt which may at any moment fall 
back again, but with a vigorous step which forecasts healthy ad- 
vancement all along the line. That the present year will show 
a still more marked increase in both imports and exports is al- 
ready a certainty from the existing business conditions. A more 
encouraging outlook has not been enjoyed by the jewelry and 
allied trades for some years, which is a matter for congratula- 
tion all around. 

Considered from the view of future trade 
Porto Rico probabilities, the acquisition of the fertile, 

as s New wealthy and well populated island of Porto 

Jewelry Market Rico, should soon bring us a new and ready 
market, close to our doors, for manufactured 
jewelry of all grades. The good people of Porto Rico, like all 
with the blood of a Latin race in their veins, are, both male and 
female, extravagantly fond of personal adornment. Ornaments 
of gold rings, earrings, necklaces, brooches, pins, etc., are worn 
by all classes who can afford them — even the poorest wear some 
piece of genuine jewelry — and the wealthier classes give full rein 
to their passion for embellishment, indulging in the rarest pre- 
cious stones, with fine settings, in the selection of which they 
display excellent taste. Heretofore Porto Ricans have de- 
pended entirely upon Europe for jewelry, France, Germany and 
England supplying the trade. With proper import regulations, 
the same as are now in operation in the United States, and which 
will undoubtedly be put into operation in Porto Rico by the 
next Congress, the whole of this new market would come 
straight to New York. Porto Ricans, unlike their brethren of 
devastated Cuba, have not suffered from the horrors of civil war 
— they are well off and have the cash to buy, and if their markets 
are properly cultivated a wide field is offered for our manu- 
factures. 



The circulation of The Jewelers Review, 
for issue of May lo, was 10,079 copies, 
for issue of May 3, was 10,110 copies. 

AVERABE WEEKLY CIRCULATION 

For February, March and April was: 

10,041 COPIES. 

Our post ofHce and other receipts are open to the Inspection of 
those who desire to verify this statement 



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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



May 17, 1899 



CERAMICS 

Under this head special attention will be given to pottery, bric-a-brac and 
porcelain, which now form an important part of the jeweler's trade. Fine 
products of the potter's art have always been prized by the select few but 
recently the popular taste has caused a demand for these goods which has 
encouraged artists of recognized ability in their production, as new wares ars 
constantly appearing, especially in foreign countries. 

AMERICAN CHINA NOT APPRECIATED 

In our issue of May 3 we had an article under the above title 
and referring to the same subject. Mrs. Horace C. Wait, the 
clever water color artist, a member of Sorosis and a woman 
who has taken a great interest in pottery work for the last few 
years, in a talk to the members of the New York Society of 
Ceramic Arts, recently said: "I have traveled with my husband 
over the greater part of New England and have always looked out 
for old china. I think everything in New England has been very 
well bought up. I have a house in Maine, fifteen miles from a rail- 
road station, and I have made tours from there, finding almost 
nothing. And the people are pitifully poor. I found one old 
woman with hardly clothes enough to hold together, but an old 
Colonial mirror that she would not part with. People will keep 
anything they can see themselves in and that possibly had some 
sentiment connected with it. I bought some things that I did 
not want and for what people thought were fabulous prices, be- 
cause they needed the money so much. Seeing an old sugar bowl 
in the window, with broken handles, making it too ugly for the 
table but good enough for a flower pot in a window, I would stop 
to ask if there was any other old china. 

"The old blue ware with historic scenes that we have in this 
country was made in Staffordshire at the beginning of this cen- 
tury, though people always say that it is over a hundred years 
old. Then followed light blues and browns and pinks that were 
interesting rather than beautiful. Our New England ancestors 
showed their severe rugged traits of character in their table- 
ware. 

"Near Concord, Mass., I found an old Irish farmer who had 
collected a good deal of china in his barn, but he had no idea of 
the relative values of things. He had some Killarney plates for 
which he asked an enormous price, but some beautiful lustre 
ware that stood beside them I bought for very little. I found a 
Lafayette platter in one place that I visited, and bought it for 
$2 or $3, but there were no plates to match it. Those had gone 
in service to pot roasts 

"There are some perfectly delightful things to be found at 
King's Lynn in England. We found people there who had old 
curiosity shops and things in which they were so much inter- 
ested that they did not care to sell. One man went down to 
Cambridge, but there was no demand for the things he had, he 
said, for the people did not care for his old blue representing 
English events, as our people have not cared so much for Ameri- 
can scenes.'* 



CERAMIC NOTE 

L. Straus & Sons, 42 Warren street. New York, are opening 
a new line of Bohemian glass in fancy loving cups, vases, etc. 
It comprises all the popular colors and the various pieces are 
richly ornamented in gold. Among other notable things are a 
line of fancy plates from English and German factories, novel- 
ties in English vases, English china tea sets and dinner sets and 
English semi-porcelain sets. Among these dinner and tea sets 
are new shapies and^decorations, the-Atter with anti wthout gold. 



TRADE PUBLICATIONS RECEIVED. 

In this column we shall note the interesting features of our varioos ex- 
changes and shall give notes of the trade publications which are issued. We 
invite our readers to send us their new catalogues, circulars, and other publi- 
cations of general interest, to which we shall be pleased to devote a portion 
of this space. 

Scientific American Bicycle and Automobile Number.— 
One of the many ways in which the noted enterprise of Munn 
& Co. is often manifested is in the publication of various inter- 
esting supplements devoted to various lines of progressive in- 
dustry. The latest effort of this publishing firm in this direc- 
tion is devoted to the bicycle and to the automobile carriage. 
The number is very copiously and handsomely illustrated, with 
an illuminated cover having a specially prepared design repre- 
senting Science holding aloft the electric torch of progress. 
Beautiful half-tones, depicting every late improvement in the 
bicycle and automobile carriages. 

Pettingill's Newspaper Directory. — The seventh annual 
directory is just out, a handsome volume of 1,000 pages, the 
most complete and comprehensive of any work of the kind. It 
is primarily designed to be a guide for intelligent and well- 
directed advertising, and in fulfilling that purpose has combined, 
as supplementary to its directory of newspapers, gazetteer feat- 
ures of scope and fullness and usefulness that are unrivalled. It 
presents a business picture of over 9,000 towns and cities, giving 
their population and valuation, the county they are located in, 
the railroads touching them, their transportation, facilities by 
water, their principal hotel and bank, enumerates their principal 
manufacturing industries, stating the number of people employed 
in each, and the annual wage payments. To complete the useful- 
ness of such a survey, a railroad map of each State is given. 

PECIALTIES IN Desseit Plates, Fish 
and Game Sets, Cups 
and Saucers, Art Pieces, 

UAVIoUIN DKvJom in fine china. 

ShowroofliK, 12 Barclay Street, New York. 





38 Murray St* 
NEW YORK 

pOREMOST LINE OF 

AMERICAN CUT GLASS. 

New and Beautiful Shapes* Send for Catalogue* Electros fumlslied for Advertiiiiig. 

Color Perfect. Beauty of Design and Brilliancy 
of Finish Unquestionable. 

The Dealer wfio handles "BERGEN^ CUT GLASS can defy competition, because quality of Goods and Prices aie right* 




UTOPIAN FAIENCE. 

The Line is specially adapted for the Retail Jeweler. 

New York Salesroom: I D OWPIVQ DHTTPDV r^O Main Office and Pottery, 

W* R DUNN. 68-70 Vest Broadway. J • ^^* V/VVd^O rVJ I I JC K I W/V/., ZANESVILLE, a 

Digitized by LnOOQ iC 



A high-glaze ART POTTERY >" beautiful blendings, 
of dull Green, Mauve and Brown. Each piece distinctive; free 
hand decorations, great variety in shapes. 

Prices for the different pieces vary from 50 cents to $100. 



May 17, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



617 






**Hc wrote his name where all Nations should behold it, and 
where all time should not efface it*' 



tf 






WE ENGRAVE HIS NAME ON A PERFECT AMERICAN WATCH 

Where all Natioas may behold it, and %vhere all time cannot efface it. 



Cbe Dueberl>ainp(len match (Uorks 



CANTON, OHIO 



THE FINEST AND ONLY COMPLETE WATCH PLANT IN THE WORLD 
The Best Watch Cases. The Best Watch Movements 



dnts ^ J 

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THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



May 17. 1899 




This department is deroted to practical and theoretical articles relating to 
the science and stndy of optics, and will be sustained hy able writers on this 
subject. Under this head win be published full reports of meetings of the 
sereral optical societies, as well as all news of interest to opticians, together 
with copies of lectures and other papers relating to optics. 



Subscribers are invited to send questions on matters on which 
they desire information. These will be answered through our 
columns, which are also open for the ventilation of all phases of 
Optical opinion. 

Communications Should be Addressed Optical Department. 
The Jewelers Review, 170 & 172 Broadway, New York. 

L. L. Ferguson, Editor. 



Vol. XXXII 



MAY 17. 1899- 



Xo. 20 



Some fine Eutopian day, we hope that amid 
Trade Secrets the bequests of some philanthropic decedent. 

Quid Pro Quos, will be found sufficient funds wherewith to 
etc. endow a chair of economics particularly for 

the education of opticians. We are all famil- 
iar with the proposition of the cat that was down in a well. He 
climbed up 10 feet every day but fell back 12 feet every night. 
Query? How long will it take for the cat to get out of the well? 

There is a startling simile between the feline and the optician, 
that is, the optician who is a dispenser, or the one who tergiver- 
sates between catering to the public and wooing the seductive 
oculist also. The optician who attempts one or the other will 
soon find himself in the same subterraneous condition as was his 
feline contemporary. 

Business is clean business, so long as it is done upon its merits. 
But when besmirched with subterfuges, underhand "you tickle me 
and I'll tickle you" business rakeoffs, commissions, etc., it be- 
comes but a "stench in the nostrils of good and honest men." It 
is not to be wondered that some few opticians engage in such 
practices, but before they are condemned one must recollect that 
it takes two to make a bargain. And while tradesmen have some 
extenuation for such a course, the professional man has absolutely 
none except that of ordinary rapacity, and certainly if they do 
not set a clear example of business morality with all their acad- 
emic finesse, surely poor, plodding opticians must not be blamed 
for their own torpidity of conscience. 

The fact of the matter is that in all the large cities of the country 
the spectacle business resulting from the ophthalmic patients in 
the various hospitals falls into the hands of not over four or five 
opticians in each respective city. What are the causes that have 
led up to this contemptible monopoly? Is it because there are 
only four or five that are competent to stick a frame upon a hos- 
pitalled ametrope's face? Of course not. Well, what is it? It 
is plain to be seen that he who does not perceive it must be 
mentally amblyopic indeed. In the city of New York there are no 
less than a dozen eye and ear infirmaries from which the ame- 
tropic output is directed to certain opticians, and the schemes 
that are resorted to to land the victim would be laughable were it 
not for laxncss of business virtue which characterizes such pro- 
ceedings. 

The most fin dc siecle scheme of all has recently been put 



in operation here by means of the telephone. The "oculi.-^t* 
hands the prescription blank to the patient with a number on ii. 
and then directs him or her to hie themselves to a certain optician. 
If the ametrope is a little suspicious that a rakeoff is going to be 
perpetrated and goes elsewhere, he will be told that the prescrip- 
tion which he has is not a prescription at all, merely a blank slip 
of paper with a meaningless number on it. Meanwhile, at the 
optician's who is on the "inside," the telephone rings and the fol- 
lowing dialogue ensues: "Hello! Is this Mr. Trial Frame?" 
"Yes, sir." "Well, I sent you a patient down this morning with 
a prescription. No. 444. The prescription for same is O. U. — 
.50 D. sph; be very careful to have them centered just right; very 
severe case. Good bye." (Rings off.) The second act commences 
when the victim, seeing that he is playing a hard game, resignedly 
calls upon Mr. Trial Frame and has No. 444, which is a synonym 
for O. U. -{- 0.50 Ds. put up in an eyeglass, all of which costs in a 
steel $4 (charity sic). Another scheme is that of writing 
the prescription in hieroglyphics comparable in intelligibleness 
to those of ancient Egypt. The worthy optician that possesses a 
key to the cipher is of course the man that the patient is sent to. 
About two years ago a relative of an optician went to a well 
known clinic to have her eyes examined, which when completed 

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Convince yourself of its value by sending 
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E. KIRSTEIN SONS CO. 



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May 17, 1899 



THE JEWELERS REVIEW 



619 



she was given a prescription that m