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From :i photograph taken July, 1887.
JOHNSON'S
Journey Around the World.
Fifty Thousand Miles of Travel, from the Golden Gate to
the Golden Gate. Interesting Observations in
Various Countries of Europe.
TWICE ACROSS THE ALPS.
Sights in Egypt, India, Africa, New Zealand and the
Sandwich Islands.
Six Thousand Miles Through Australia.
Daring Adventures of a Lone White Man among the Natives in
the Interior of Ceylon, China and Japan, Twelve
Times Across the Western Continent, with
a Description of all the Various
Routes and Sights of
Interest.
BY OSMUN JOHNSON.
SOLD BY SUBSCRIPTION.
Chicago.
18L7.
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1887, by Osmun Johnson, in the
office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.
Printers, Publishers and Engravers,
Chicago.
PREFACE.
During thirty years' residence in California,
I have led a busy life, enduring much hard toil
and the many privations incident to life in the
gold mines in early days. I have pursued many
different avocations: mind and body have been
in constant motion. After such an exciting career
I resolved to take a rest, and have a change of
scene ; to travel abroad, and visit all of the prin-
cipal places of note ; to traverse the ocean, and to
feast my eyes and mind upon the wonders of the
Old World. For the last twenty years I have had
an increasing desire to take a spin around the ball.
I felt it to be the greatest gift and treat that 1
could bestow upon myself, and finally determined
to put my ambitious desire into execution. So I
hastily prepared to go, and made arrangements to
remain as long as I should find enjoyment among
an unknown people in unknown lands. Now, what
I rely on to make this simple narrative interesting
is not the talent or literary training that I have
had, but my ability to present, in an original man-
ner, the information obtained, not only from guides
and interpreters, but from my own observation.
(3)
4 Preface.
During my travels I kept a daily record of events
and incidents connected with my tour around the
world. And in writing- an account of this extended
tour, brief mention will be made of my adventures
on this continent, across which I have made twelve
different trips during the last thirty years; I shall
state the years the journeys were made in, the
different routes traveled, the distance, and the
principal points of interest on each one. As this
narrative is to be filled up with mixed material,
and possibly presented in a somewhat rambling
manner, the writer asks the indulgence of the
reader, as he makes this his first venture in the
new and untried field of literature, remembering
always that a wide difference frequently exists
between the farmer and the educated traveler, the
plowshare and the pen.
Osmun Johnson.
Modesto, Cal., August 5, 1887.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
CHAPT. I.— The United States 9
San Francisco — The Columbia — Yellowstone Park — Dakota —
Minneapolis to New York City — Funeral of General Grant —
Other Journeys over the Western Continent — Sierras — The Mor-
mons — The Missouri — Indian Attack — Big Trees and Yosemite —
Los Angeles — Steamboat Racing on the Mississippi — Niagara —
The St. Lawrence — Walker Expedition against Nicaragua.
CHAPT. II. — The Atlantic and the British Isles... 56
Crossing the Atlantic — Queenstown — Dublin — Liverpool — Lon-
don — Glasgow — The Clyde — English Railway System.
CHAPT. III. — France, Switzerland and Austria... 77
Dover to Calais — Paris — The Louvre — Tomb of Napoleon — Fu-
neral of Admiral Courbet — First Crossing of the Alps — Berne —
Lake Constance — Bavaria — Yienna — On the Danube.
CHAPT. IV. — Germany and Denmark 102
Bohemia — Saxony — Dresden — Berlin — Wiirtemberg — Emperor
Wilhelm — Hamburg — Bremen — Copenhagen — Czar of Russia.
CHAPT. V. — Sweden, The Baltic and Russia 120
Malmo — Stockholm — Inland Lakes — The Baltic — St. Petersburg.
CHAPT. VI.— Norway 126
Trolhatta Fall — Frederickstad — Fjeldes, Fosses and Fiords — Iron
Mines and Fisheries — Christiania — Prince of Wales — Skager
Rack — The Kilhorn — Hardanger Fiord — Drammen — Skien —
Satra Life — Kragero — The Cariole — Gjerestad — Kindness and
Hospitality — The Bryllip — RisOr — Christiansand — Ship-building.
CHAPT. VII. — Across the North Sea, Germany and
the Alps 143
Sea-Sickness — The Elbe — Hamburg — Frankfort-on-the-Main — ■
Heidelberg — Carlsruhe— Baden-Baden — Stuttgart — The Rhine —
Second Crossing of the Alps — St. Gothard Tunnel — Lake Lucerne.
CHAPT. VIII. — Italy, Gibraltar and Malta 154
Milan — Venice — Verona — Bologna — Florence — Rome — Naples —
Vesuvius — Pompeii — Excursion to Gibraltar — Malta — Brindisi.
CHAPT. IX. — The Mediterranean, Egypt, Red Sea
and Arabian Sea 185
Greece — Alexandria — Cairo — Pyramids — Great Desert — Nile —
Suez Canal — Red Sea — Sinai — Aden — Cape Guardafui — Socotra.
(5)
6 Contents.
CHAPT. X.— Ceylon and India 204
Colombo — The Singhalese — Kandy — Hill Country and Scenery
of Interior — Buddhists — Madras — Mohammedans — Brahmans —
Calcutta — Custom House — The Hugh — Ganges — Bay of Bengal.
CHAPT. XI. — The Voyage Over the Indian Ocean.. 225
The Equator — Officers and Passengers Promenading Barefooted —
Lunches — Jolly Passengers — Instructive Conversation.
CHAPT. XII.— Australia 228
Cape Leeuwin — Albany — Adelaide — Great Australian Bight —
Melbourne — -The Interior — Vast Resources — Extensive Coal De-
posits — Sydney — Zigzag Railways of the Blue Mountains.
CHAPT. XIII.— New Zealand 251
Captain Cook — Products — Gold — Scenery — Curious Birds — Rail-
ways — The Maori — Wellington — Fine Climate — Fertile Soil.
CHAPT. XIV.— The Australian Coast 260
Coast Towns — Great Barrier Reef — Coral Sea — Torres Strait —
Pearl Fishing — Gulf of Carpentaria — Tropic Heat — Port Darwin.
CHAPT. XV. — Philippine Islands and China Sea
to Hong-Kong 275
Arafura Sea — Burning Mountain — Borneo — Celebes Sea — Philip-
pines — Java — Singapore — The China Sea— The Typhoon.
CHAPT. XVI. — China, from Hong-Kong to Canton. 285
Hong-Kong — Victoria Peak — Macao — Canton — Pagodas and
Temples — Whampoa — Marco Polo — Interior — Boat Population.
CHAPT. XVII. — Chinese Coast and Shanghai 319
Chinese Fishing Fleets — Swatow — Foochow — Ningpo — Amoy —
Shanghai — The Yang-tse-kiang — Mixed Population.
CHAPT. XVIII.— The Yellow Sea, and Coast and
Coast Towns of Japan 327
Nagasaki — Women Stevedores — Papenberg Island — Progressive-
ness of the Japanese — Kobe — Hiogo — Neatness and Thrift —
Theatres — Osaka — Dress — The Price of a Wife — Kioto — Temples
— National Customs — Shinto Sect and Buddhists — Fusiyama.
CHAPT. XIX.— The Interior of Japan 354
Yokohama — The Jinrikishia — Sedan Chair — Tokio — Mikado's
Palace — Bathing — Nikko — Kamakura — Great Resources — Many
Converts to Christianity — Politeness and Kindness of the People.
CHAPT. XX. — Homeward Bound Across the Pacific,
via Honolulu, to San Francisco 383
On the Steamer City of Peking — Honolulu — The Sugar King —
Explosion on the Mariposa- — Return Through the Golden Gate.
Appendix 395
ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
Portrait of Author Frontispiece
California Street, San Francisco 13
The Palmer House 2S
The Brooklyn Bridge 31
Temple and Tabernacle, Salt Lake City 36
View in Denver 39
The New Bridge at Niagara, with the Falls in the Distance. 52
Dublin from the Liffey : 60
The Prince of Wales and Family 63
London, with St. Paul's in the Distance 66
The Tower of London 68
Westminster Abbey 71
The Old University of Glasgow 73
Paris 80
The Palace of the Luxembourg 83
Place de la Concorde 85
Berlin 104
The Siegessaule, in Berlin 107
Emperor Wilhelm no
The Royal Palace, Stockholm 123
Christi ania 129
Milan Cathedral 155
The City in the Sea 158
St. Peter's at Rome 167
Naples and Mount Vesuvius 174
The Town and Rock of Gibp^altar 180
The City of Cairo 191
Melbourne, the Capital of Victoria 234
(7)
8 Illustrations,
Chinese Pagoda 299
Japanese Woman Spinning Silk 330
Japanese Women Ornamenting the Hair 341
Riding in a Sedan Chair in the Interior of Japan 34S
Mr. Johnson in Japanese Costume, with Fusiyama for a Back-
ground 351
Japanese Ladies Bathing 358
Dining in Native Style 367
Mr. Johnson in the Jinrikishia, the Common Mode of Travel
in Japan 372
Bronze Image of Buddha 374
The Cliff House and Seal Rocks 392
Johnson's Journey Around the World.
CHAPTER I.
THE UNITED STATES.
Before starting on such a long and perilous jour-
ney, it became a matter of great importance to
select to advantage the best routes of travel o'er
land and sea ; to visit the frigid regions in Europe
during the warmest season of the year, so as to
avoid the oppressive cold ; to travel in the tropical
climes of Asia and Africa during that portion of
the year when the terrific heat of the sun's rays
would be the least oppressive, and to avoid the
dangerous monsoons and typhoons that prevail at
cei tain seasons of the year. Many travelers had
gone before me, and many had never returned,
and, keeping this fact in view, I endeavored to so
shape my journey as to avoid all of the dan-
gers incident to such a trip. I had traveled over
the various routes on this continent before starting
on this tour, except by way of the Northern
Pacific Railway; and, as this route traversed a
country which I had never seen, I decided to take
it, and thus avail myself of an opportunity to
view the grand and picturesque scenery on the
Columbia River, the Cascade Mountains in Oregon,
(9)
10 Around the World.
the Yellowstone, the great National Park, the Gey-
sers, etc. So I left instructions in regand to my
business affairs, and started out on my rambles,
promising myself to take in all that was worth
seeing in Europe and the Orient.
Before beginning to give a description of the
varied scenes I witnessed in my travels, the pan-
orama of faces, skies, cities, mountain, valley and
desert, I am going to give a brief description of
my home in the once far-off West. I started from
Modesto, a thriving, enterprising little city situ-
ated in the San Joaquin Valley, the great wheat
region of California. This beautiful little place
of between three and four thousand inhabitants is
exceedingly well located in the centre of a grain-
growing country. It is the county seat of Stanis-
laus County, — has many fine and substantial build-
ings, both business and private; has the advanta-
ges of a healthful climate, and nearness to all the
large commercial centres of the State ; has splen-
did schools and many churches. So, after bidding
adieu to my many friends at this place, I boarded
the train, and was soon speeding away over the
plains. The chief attraction on this line was the
wheat fields dotted with bags filled with grain
awaiting transportation, — for we of this valley can
raise grain enough to feed the hungry at home and
abroad and have an abundance to spare. Every-
where could be seen the indications of a bounti-
Port Costa — Oakland. 11
ful harvest, the reward which always rejoices the
heart of the tiller of the soil.
The first point of interest on this route is Port
Costa, on San Francisco Bay. It is one of the
greatest wheat depots in the State, and has an
immense warehouse capacity. Here the farmer of
a speculating turn of mind stores his wheat, and
takes chances on the rise and fall of the market.
The Star Mills, the largest flouring mills in Califor-
nia, are located near here, and some of the largest
ocean vessels afloat can always be seen at the
wharves loading the precious cargo. At Port Costa
there is also a railway ferry boat of enormous size
which is used in transporting overland passenger
trains across the straits to the Benicia side.
From here I journeyed on to Oakland, the city
of churches, seminaries, and colleges of learning,
and, so far as piety and good morals are con-
cerned, considered the model city in the State, not
excepting San Jose. Oakland is noted for its ele-
gant private residences, its parks and gardens, its
profusion of majestic live oaks, and the picturesque
beauty and variety of scenery by which it is sur-
rounded. Many of the wealthy citizens of San
Francisco and a large number of retired farmers
have their homes here, where they and their fam-
ilies can enjoy the many educational and other
advantages of this quiet city.
Five miles from Oakland, on the opposite side of
12 Around the World.
San Francisco Bay, I found myself in the bustling
city of San Francisco. This city is famous for its
magnificent harbor and its exports of gold and
wheat, — it is the largest city of the Pacific coast, and
is the fourth city of the United States in foreign
commerce ; it has a population of 350,000. San
Francisco is lined with costly edifices, from Golden
Gate Park to the home of the lucky millionaire on
Nob Hill. A few of the many attractions this city
contains are Golden Gate Park, the Cliff House,
the Presidio; Telegraph Hill, from which you ob-
tain a fine view of the bay, Oakland, Saucelito,
and, in fact, of all the surrounding country; Wood-
ward's Gardens, Sutro Heights, the Panorama,
Theatres, Operas and Museums. It has a goodly
number of fine hotels, the most extensive of which
is the Palace. This hotel was erected at a cost of
four millions of dollars, and is the largest caravan-
sary in the world. In my estimation, the South-
ern in St. Louis, the Palmer House in Chicago, or
the Windsor in New York are inferior in compar-
ison with the Palace. The city contains many
magnificent cathedrals and imposing structures,
and possesses every facility and advantage to en-
able it to maintain its position as the metropolis of
the Pacific coast.
On the 25th day of July, 1885, I embarked
on the coast steamer State of California for
Portland, Oregon, — a distance of 800 miles from
(13)
14 Arotind the World.
San Francisco. As we moved out from the dock,
we waved a last adieu with our hats and handker-
chiefs to the friends we left behind us. This last
parting will long be remembered. Soon the faces
of those we loved were left in the dim distance; and,
as we sailed out of the Golden Gate into the broad
Pacific, I felt this to be the practical beginning of
a long and perilous journey,, and it led to queries
in my own mind as to whether I should ever return
to my home in sunny California, or whether I
should meet the fate of many an adventurous
traveler who has found a last resting place in some
distant clime or been consigned to the tender mer-
cies of the restless deep. This portion of the
Pacific was not pacific, a fact soon determined by
many of the passengers, who were decidedly sea-
sick. At sea this most disagreeable of sickness is
called " feeding the fishes." The swell of the sea
and the roll of the vessel soon proved too much
for a landsman like myself, and I joined the num-
ber of seasick passengers. But in my case the
sea-sickness lasted only two days, and I found my-
self with better health and a better appetite, so
concluded there was much truth in the old adage
that "it is an ill wind that blows no one any good."
After recovering my equilibrium I made new
friends and some interesting acquaintances, who
helped to make the days pass swiftly by. On this
coast there is no object worthy of note after leav-
The Columbia. 15
ing Cape Mendocino; and no incident worthy of
mention occurred. We could see nothing but the
fish, the broad expanse of water, and the blue sky
overhead.
On the third day at sea we steamed into
Astoria, at the mouth of the Columbia River.
This place has the largest salmon fisheries in the
world, and is about 650 miles from San Francisco.
The bay in the vicinity of Astoria is dotted with
fishing boats whose occupants are engaged in catch-
ing fish for the canning establishments. These
unfortunate fishermen often meet with accident,
and wrecks and loss of life are of frequent occur-
rence, as this is a stormy shore. Astoria is an old,
flat, rusty-looking town, with wooded bluffs in the
background. The surrounding country is well
timbered. A large number of sailing craft can be
seen from Astoria plying up and down the coast
between Puget Sound and San Francisco; they are
principally engaged in the lumber trade. The
northern coast of California exports a large amount
of choice lumber, such as sugar pine, spruce and
redwood to Australia, Japan and the East.
After leaving Astoria we entered the famous
Columbia River. On either side of this stream is a
succession of elevated ranges thickly dressed in
spruce and pine. When the powerful engine of
our steamer had forced its way through the foam-
ing current for 100 miles, we found ourselves
16 Around the World.
at Portland, which is situated on the western
bank of the Willamette River, a tributary of the
Columbia. Portland is the metropolis of Oregon,
and has a population of 40,000. It is said to be
one of the richest cities in proportion to its size
in the United States. ' It is well laid out, with
many beautiful residences, and is destined, by
reason of its natural advantages, to become a large
city within the next twenty years. Several large
ocean vessels were anchored at her wharves loading
wheat for Europe. Oregon is blessed with a very
rich soil, an abundance of rain, and an almost
inexhaustible supply of timber; her many valleys
are fertile and picturesque. The lofty eminence
which girts the city of Portland seems to prove
the greatest attraction for tourists. Here they can
overlook the shipping, and the life and bustle in the
city below. Here, also, can be seen the farms and
groves of the broad Willamette Valley, and a
distant view can be had of five of the largest
mountains in the United States: Mount Hood,
Mount Jefferson, Mount Taccma, Mount Adams
and Mount St. Helens. The peaks of these
mountains are covered with perpetual snow.
After leaving Portland, I resumed my journey
by rail for St. Paul, a distance of about 1,950
miles, which we made in less than four days. It
seemed but a short space of time before we were
over the Cascade Mountains and into Eastern
Washington Territory. 17
Oregon. Along this route, on the Columbia River,
can be seen some of the finest railway engineering
and wildest mountain scenery in the West; the
further you follow the winding, foaming stream,
the more the scenery increases in grandeur and
interest. At Wallula Station we found that we
had left the Web-foot State. Here I resumed my
journey in the direction of Walla Walla. The
country, as seen from the cars, presented a variety
of scene and soil. At times fertile fields presented
themselves to our view, again we were treated to a
succession of hills covered with bunch grass, and
at other times stretches of country which boasted
of no vegetation but sage-brush met our view. As
the eastern portion of Washington Territory is
remote from the market, and has no extensive
railway system to transport its products, wheat-
raising is indulged in to but a limited extent. The
principal industry is stock-raising ; vast herds of
cattle can be seen arazina- on the hills. At Ains-
worth the cars crossed the Snake River on one of
the largest iron bridges on the Northern Pacific.
Spokane Falls is the last and one of the most
important towns in Washington Territory. It is
surrounded by timber, and contains several sights
of interest, including the most imposing water-
falls east of the Cascade Mountains. From here
on to the Idaho line the land is uncultivated,
and barren of vegetation. We crossed over into
2
18 Around the World.
Idaho, and journeyed along the shores of Lake
Pend d'Orielle. This beautiful body of water is
fed by snow from the surrounding peaks. Our
road wound its way around these lofty mountains,
until at last we found ourselves in the gateway of
the Rocky Mountains. Here a grand sight met
our eyes: the snow-covered peaks glistening in the
sun, the streams and cataracts tearing their way
down the mountain's side, all proclaimed this to be
one of Nature's masterpieces. Idaho produces large
amounts of gold and silver. We found the country
to be thickly timbered, but poorly improved. The
principal resources of this Territory are stock-
raising and mining. Boise City, its capital, is the
centre of a large mining district, and many exten-
sive mines are in operation in its vicinity.
Speeding along at a rapid rate, we soon reached
Montana, the finest stock-raising country on the
Northern Pacific road. Vast herds of cattle could
be seen all through this country: the land is mostly
owned by the government, and these Montana
stockmen have extensive ranges now, where prob-
ably, in a few years, when the tide of emigration
turns that way, there will be many farms and the
land will be extensively cultivated. Much of the
beef is exported to Europe. In addition to her
stock-raising interests, Montana has a fine climate,
much rich soil, and great mineral wealth. At Mul-
len's Pass we crossed the main chain of the Rocky
Crossing the Rocky Mountains. 19
Mountains, passing through a tunnel nearly 4,000
feet in length, and at an altitude of 5,500 above the
level of the sea. The road eastward runs through
a level valley which is well timbered. We found the
scenery very picturesque. The next place of int-
erest was Helena, the capital and largest city. It is
situated on the eastern slope of the Rocky Mount-
ains, and also near the headwaters of the Missouri
River. The country on the northern side of the
city has a panoramic appearance, — lofty mountain
peaks loom up in the distance, and add much to the
grandeur of the scene. Helena is the centre of
one of the largest mining districts on the continent.
In the last few years many million dollars have
been taken from the soil, and there are a laree
number of extensive paying mines at present in
operation. Montana, however, seems to have been
designed by nature for a great pastoral country, and
reaps larger returns from her stock-raising interests
than from her mineral wealth.
As we journeyed eastward from Helena, I was
much impressed by the extensive valleys : always
could be seen in every direction the vast herds of
cattle grazing on the seemingly abundant feed.
To my mind, it was a perpetual reminder of beef-
steak. At Livingston, 125 miles east of Helena,
there is a branch road to the National Yellowstone
Park, a distance of sixty miles. This famous resort
I decided to visit, and while here I met tourists from
•20 Around the World.
home and abroad, who, like myself, had been im-
pressed with a desire to witness one of nature's
greatest wonders. This valley is enclosed by
mountains, many over 10,000 feet in height. Its
deep canyons, lofty falls and numerous bathing pools,
geysers and lakes, make it in many respects the
most wonderful portion of the continent, and even
of the world. It has been set aside by Congress as
a " perpetual reservation for the benefit and in-
struction of mankind." Some of the hot springs
and geysers throw boiling water hundreds of feet
into the air. Yellowstone Lake is seventeen miles
wide by twenty miles long. Several small steam-
ers on this lake convey the tourist to various
points of interest. It strikes me it would be well
to call this park the playground of America, as
Switzerland is termed the playground of Europe.
Well, as the writer is a traveler on the wirigf,
he resumes his journey on the main line. Jour-
neying eastward from Livingston, we arrived at
Glendive, an important trading post. We had
now traveled 800 miles, the extreme length of
Montana. While penciling these last notes in
my memorandum book the iron horse has whirled
us over the boundary line into Dakota. Medora
is the first station on the Little Missouri. It is
surrounded by many odd and curious hills, in all
shapes and sizes, called " The Bad Lands," and
I was fully convinced that these lands did not
Dakota. 21
belie their name; the soil seemed to be of every
kind and color ; great numbers of cattle were seen
grazing on every hill. Here, also, are extensive
hunting grounds; wolves, buffalo, deer and elk can
be found on the prairies. This must be a para-
dise for hunters. The next station we arrived at
was Dickenson, which is located in a fertile val-
ley. It had the appearance of being a hunting
ground also, if one could judge from the variety
of stuffed deer, wolves, and the skins of wild ani-
mals which were hanging in sight and were for
sale at the depot. After passing New Salem, we
began to see new settlements, the first we had
seen in this remote region. Western Dakota has
a fertile soil, and vegetation grows luxuriantly.
It is, however, destitute of timber: this creates a
scarcity of fuel, which is a great drawback to the
prosperity of this section, where the winters are
long and severe. The coal which is used here
has to be brought a long distance, and at great
expense for transportation. Mandan is a thrifty
city of 3,000 inhabitants, situated on the west bank
of the Missouri River, about half way between the
Montana and Minnesota line, and is the terminal
point of the Dakota and Minnesota division of
the road.
The whole country west of Mandan is dotted
with rude farm houses. All of these farms are
scantily improved, and everything bears evidence
22 Around the World.
of newness and want of means. But the tiller of
the soil in Dakota has a fine prospect before him,
and in a few years will reap the reward of his
labors, and independence and comfort will take
the place of the inconveniences and discomforts at-
tending the life of the pioneer. On the east bank
of the Missouri stands the thriving city of Bis-
marck, a place of about 10,000 inhabitants, a
large proportion of whom are Europeans. The
Missouri here is spanned by an enormous iron
bridge, the largest structure of the kind on the
Northern Pacific between Portland and St. Paul.
Between Bismarck and the Minnesota line the
aspect of the country changes most favorably ; it
is level and fertile, covered with fields of waving
grain. The main attraction to farmers in this
section of Dakota is the farms of Dalrymple.
These farms consist of 75,000 acres, all under
cultivation. It was harvest time when I saw
them, and the vast prairie, covered with its wealth
of golden grain, presented a brilliant sight.
The Dalrymple farms are situated in the valley
of the Red River of the North, the banner farm-
ing belt of Dakota. I was now reminded of our
extensive farms in California, to me the garden
spot of the earth. I could not but think how her
farmers were favored with the mild, even climate
and the long, dry summers that afford such ample
time to harvest the grain.
Minneapolis. 23
After 350 miles of rapid riding in Dakota,
we arrived at Fargo, on the western bank of
the Red River of the North. This stream is
the division line between Dakota and Minne-
sota. On the east side of the river we found
the enterprising town of Moorhead, and had our
first glimpse of Minnesota, the fourth greatest
grain State in the American Union. Were it not
for the high latitude and the long and severe
winters, she would lead the van as a great grain-
growing State. All along the line of the railroad
could be seen signs of wealth and prosperity,
especially in the Red River Valley. Brainerd,
an attractive and flourishing city of 10,000 inhab-
itants, is situated on the Mississippi River
140 miles northwest of St. Paul. It is surrounded
by a vast and fertile prairie that is dotted with
beautiful farms. Pursuing my journey eastward,
the next place of importance reached was Little
Falls, situated among and surrounded by forest
trees, and boasting of having the largest hotel
on the Northern Pacific Railroad. It also has
a branch railroad running to Minnewaska Lake,
one of the loveliest summer resorts in Minnesota.
One hundred miles more and we entered Minne-
apolis, the queen city of the Northwest. This city
has a population of 1 25,000, and is one of the great-
est milling points in the world. It is situated on a
level plain on the western bank of the Mississippi.
24 Around the World.
Many of the streets are lined with imposing build-
ings which would do justice to either London or
Paris. Aside from being a great railroad centre,
this city is backed by a densely settled farming
country, extending over the fertile plains to the Red
River Valley. One of the chief points of interest
is St. Anthony's Falls. It is a magnificent sight to
watch the foaming torrent as it tears its way over
rocks and precipices until it reaches the Missis-
sippi. This fall is often called the Niagara of
the West. It has an estimated capacity of 135,000
horse-power at the lowest stage of water. This
water-power is utilized in the various mills, some
of which I visited. The Washburn and Pillsbury
Mills are said to have the greatest grinding
capacity of any mills in the world. Long trains
of cars can always be seen here loading flour,
which is shipped to Chicago, and from thence to
various points on both continents, and this flour is
converted into bread to feed the hungry millions
with. While here I also visited several woolen
factories, where hundreds of men and women are
constantly employed in the manufacture of woolen
goods.
Twelve miles from Minneapolis lies St. Paul,
the capital of the State. It is a thriving, enter-
prising commercial city, situated at the head of
navigation on the Mississippi River. This city is
built on an elevation, and one can have a magnifi-
St. Paul. 25
cent view of the river, upon which boats can be
seen during most of the year plying up and down
the stream. While St. Paul his not the water-
power that Minneapolis has, she has the advantage
of being the capital of a growing and prosperous
State, and this advantage she intends to retain. A
great rivalry exists between these two cities, each
trying to control the great growing Northwestern
trade; but the suburbs of each are growing out in
the direction of the other, and it seems as if the
two must soon become one great city, with inter-
ests in common and a common destiny. The
growth they have made within the last score of
years has been marvelous. When I first visited
Minnesota, twenty-five years ago, each of these
places had less than 7,000 inhabitants. In 1S86
they had a combined population of over a quarter
of a million.
St. Paul has various means of egress. One
can have their choice of a number of routes by
rail, or they can travel by water on the river
steamers until that becomes monotonous, and then
can return to the swifter method of transit. But
at this juncture I concluded to stay with the
rail, so took the train at the Union Depot, on
the line known as the Chicago, Milwaukee &
St. Paul. The first city of importance that I
arrived at in the Badger State was La Crosse,
situated on the Mississippi River, and also at
26 Around the World.
the mouth of the Black River. It is the centre
of a large lumber industry. From here I re-
sumed my journey to Kilbourn City, on the
Wisconsin River, a distance of eighty miles.
The chief attractions on this route were the
numerous bluffs and thickly wooded valleys, until
we arrived at the Dells. This place is quite a
summer resort for Milwaukee and Chicago peo-
ple, who come here during the warmest part of
the summer to enjoy a change of scene and of
air. The Dells are a narrow, rocky gorge, only
a few feet wide, and miles long, where the Wis-
consin River penetrates through bluffs whose
high and curious walls extend perpendicularly in
the air. It is an interesting sight to stand on
one of these high elevations during a freshet in
the spring, and watch the foaming torrent of
water pouring into this narrow passage. Thirty
years ago, before I became a pioneer to the
then far West, my home was near Kilbourn
City. Here my parents first made their home
after emigrating from Europe. Here my boyhood
days were spent among the tamaracks and oaks
in the green meadows. In the winter we were
surrounded by snow-clad hills, and near us were
beautiful lakes. I enjoyed a brief and pleasant
sojourn among my many old and almost for-
gotten friends. Time had wrought many changes;
but memory, busy with the past, brought many
Milwaukee — Chicago. 2 7
&'
pleasant recollections to my mind. Old-time
scenes and incidents were recalled.
After bidding my friends adieu, I again resumed
my journey. I took the cars at Kilbourn City, and
was soon swiftly speeding away over marshes,
swamps, tree-clad hills and rolling prairie. On
this route the towns worthy of note were Portage
and Watertown ; ere long we arrived at Milwau-
kee, the largest city in Wisconsin. It is one of
the five great lake ports, and has a large com-
merce in breadstuff's, provisions and lumber. The
next city of importance was Racine, which is not
far from the boundary line of Illinois, and we soon
arrived at Chicago, which is a great railway centre,
and I again have my choice of a variety of routes. It
isnot the intention of the writer to make extended
mention of these large cities which lie on the beaten
line of travel and are so well known to us all, but
rather to give a brief resume of the places of impor-
tance he passed on his journey over the continent.
Chicago is a city of recent and remarkable
growth, its population having increased nearly 70
per cent, in the last ten years. Originally built
on low ground, it has become, in its grading, drain-
age and water supply, a monument to the energy,
sagacity and public spirit of its citizens. In Octo-
ber, 1 87 1, a fire, one of the most destructive in
modern times, swept away three and a quarter
miles of its most valuable storehouses and resi-
(28)
Scenes Through Pennsylvania. 29
dences. Notwithstanding this sudden calamity,
the most extensive and disastrous that ever befell
an American community, the new Chicago that
has already sprung from the old is, in every respect,
a grander city. It is the commercial metropolis
of the St. Lawrence basin, the chief lumber and
pork market in America, and, next to London, the
greatest grain market in the world.
On leaving Chicago, I decided to travel by way
of the Fort Wayne & Pennsylvania Railroad, and,
by so doing, I passed many of the largest iron
mines, viewed some of the rolling mills, and visited
all of the principal cities in Pennsylvania, including
Pittsburg, Harrisburg and Philadelphia. I also
crossed the largest rivers in the State, and made
the climb over the Alleghany Mountains. I here
saw some of the grandest mountain scenery and
most difficult railway engineering in the Union.
Arriving at Philadelphia, I proceeded to view the
points of interest. I visited the U. S. Mint, and had
a fine view of the city from the elevated railway.
The most famous public building is the old State
House, where the Declaration of Independence was
adopted, July 4th, 1 776. Philadelphia is the second
city in the United States in manufactures and popu-
lation, and the fifth in the amount of its foreign com-
merce ; it also has an extensive domestic commerce,
and is the greatest coal depot in America. It is
noted for its Fairmount Park, its well supplied
30 Around the World.
markets, and its abundance of cheap and com-
fortable dwellings ; it is sometimes called the
" City of Homes."
After leaving Philadelphia, my next stopping
place was New York City. All along the line of
the railroad between Philadelphia and New York
can be seen busy cities, bearing the marks of age,
enterprise and prosperity. New York City is the
richest and most populous city in America. It is
noted for its extensive commerce, the number of its
magnificent hotels, banks, churches and private
dwellings. I visited Central Park and the Brooklyn
Bridge, saw the Vanderbilt and Gould mansions,
and gazed upon the busy, bustling throng in Broad-
way and Wall street. The elevated railway ex-
tends twelve miles, from Harlem River to Castle
Garden. In 1880, only two cities in Europe,
London and Paris, exceeded New York in popula-
tion. Brooklyn, the third city of the United States,
and Jersey City, in New Jersey, are so closely
connected with it that they really constitute one
great city. Besides these are many residential
towns connected with New York by rivers and
railroads. So numerous are these towns that the
total number of inhabitants within a radius of thirty
miles around New York City is not less than
2,500,000. While in New York I attended the
funeral of General Grant, the most imposing pa-
geant ever witnessed in America.
(31)
32 Around the World.
Now that my journey from San Francisco to
New York over the Northern Pacific road has been
described, before I cross the Atlantic, and enter
upon my tour of the Old World, I will make brief
mention of my other transcontinental trips. Per-
chance, some other traveler may follow in my foot-
steps, and, finding himself in San Francisco unde-
cided which route to travel by, would be glad to
know what the various points of interest are on
each route. Not that these few pages are intended
as a guide book, for they are not, but simply a
narrative of the experience of a traveler.
When I made my first journey overland, in 1870,
I traveled byway of the Central and Union Pacific.
San Francisco was my starting point; at Port
Costa we crossed, on the large railway ferry here-
tofore mentioned, to Benicia, and were soon speed-
ing away toward Sacramento, the capital of our
Golden State. A few miles from Sacramento the
character of the country changes, we leave the
fertile vallevs behind, and find ourselves in the
foot-hills of the Sierra Nevadas. The climate and
soil of these foot-hills are peculiarly adapted to
fruit-raising. All varieties of grapes grow to per-
fection, small fruit trees of every kind are culti-
vated here, and even tropical and citrus fruits are
raised successfully. This portion of California has
also been a great mining region, and there are
still a number of rich mines in successful opera-
Over the Sierra Nevadas. 33
tion. One of the grandest sights in the Sierras
is Cape Horn, where some marvelous engineering
can be seen. Here the track is cut on a narrow
ledge around the peak, from which there is a per-
pendicular descent of almost 2,000 feet. The
scenery along here will compare favorably with
that of the Alps, the Alleghanies, the Kandy
Mountains in Ceylon, or even that seen from the
zigzag railway in the Blue Mountains in Australia.
The Sierra Nevadas constitute one of the grand-
est mountain chains in the world. Their loftiest
peaks reach an elevation of about 15,000 feet,
and are the highest in the United States. Their
forest-clad western slope has its foot in the low
valleys almost at the level of the sea ; and,
with their long line of peaks covered with per-
petual snow," their gigantic spurs and numerous
foot-hills rich with gold, their deep canyons,
foaming torrents, and giant trees, they present
landscapes famous throughout the world for vari-
ety, beauty and sublimity. Their eastern slope,
though bold and rugged, is much narrower and
less imposing. Truckee, situated on the eastern
slope of this range of mountains, is surrounded
by a country that is grand, romantic and heavily
timbered. Near here are the famous snow-sheds,
which are about thirty miles in length. A few
miles distant are Donner Lake and Lake Tahoe,
both noted summer resorts These beautiful
34 Around the World.
sheets of water will compare favorably with Lake
Lucerne, in Switzerland, or Lake Como, in Italy.
Lake Tahoe is about twenty-two miles long" by
fourteen wide. It is 1,500 feet deep, and its sur-
face is about 6,000 feet above the level of the sea.
Thirty miles east of Truckee, we arrived at
Reno, the first town of note in Nevada. Here are
two railway lines, one running to Carson City, the
capital of the State; the other for Virginia City,
which lies in one of the richest silver regions in
the world. A peculiar feature of the latter road
is that it is about as crooked as a corkscrew. Ne-
vada is called the Silver State, and with equal truth
might be called the Sa^e-Brush State, as sage-brush
abounds so plentifully. It is, however, pre-emi-
nently a mineral State, its resources of this nature
being extraordinary in variety and value, and in-
exhaustible in quantity. Prominent among the
hundreds of rich mines are those of the famous
Comstock ledge, from which many millionaires have
evolved. From Reno eastward, we soon strike the
Humboldt River, which is the largest river in the
State. After a winding course of about 350
miles, it is lost in the Humboldt and Carson sink,
a shallow lake or marsh -of vast extent, its waters
being brackish with salt and soda. As we go east-
ward, we travel through a country which is for
the most part level and covered with sage-brush.
We pass Wadsworth, Winnemucca, Battle Mount-
Salt Lake City. 35
ain, Palisade, Carlin and Elko, occasionally catch-
ing- a glimpse of some beautiful bits of scenery.
We next reach Utah, the land of the honey bee,
as the Mormons style it. These Mormons constitute
four-fifths of the population of this Territory. One
could not but note the great contrast between the
dry sage-brush country of Nevada and the fertile
valleys occupied by the Mormons, or Latter-Day
Saints, as they style themselves. Salt Lake City,
the capital of Utah, is situated on the east bank
of the Jordan River, the stream which connects
Great Salt Lake and Lake Utah. It is 4,350 feet
above the level of the sea, and is picturesquely lo-
cated. Its streets are lined with shade trees, which,
when in leaf, conceal many of the buildings from
view, which gives a large portion of the city the
appearance of a garden. These streets are 128
feet wide, and a stream of water flows through
each, from which the gardens are irrigated. The
climate is considered very healthful. One of the
chief attractions and points of interest is the
sacred square, or temple block. Here the new
temple, which has been years in the course of con-
struction, is now nearing completion. I last
visited this enormous granite structure in April,
1885, on m y return from the New Orleans Ex-
position. I also visited the Tabernacle, which is a
spacious wooden structure 250 feet long by 150
feet wide, is seventy feet in height, and has an oval
•A
■<
72
O
-<!
2;
3
(36)
Salt Lake City. 37
roof. It has a seating capacity of 10,000 people; its
twenty doors all open outward. In the west end
stands the organ, which the Mormon attendant
who guided me around, informed me was the largest
organ in the United States. It is thirty feet wide,
thirty-three feet long, and has 3,000 pipes. On leav-
ing the church, I was requested to register my name
in the great church register. I also visited the
Zion Co-Operative Mercantile Institution. The
head manager of this institution informed me that
this was the largest mercantile house west of Chi-
cago, that the capital invested in merchandise was
$1,000,000, and that they constantly employed 160
clerks. There is a museum containing a good col-
lection of specimens. Another point of interest is
the Black Rock bathing resort. The residence of
the late Brigham Young, the Salt Lake Assembly
Hall, and the Walker House, the leading hotel,
are magnificent structures that would do credit to
a city twice the size of Salt Lake. The Mormons
occupy fertile valleys at the western base of the
Wahsatch Mountains, and carry on extensive agri-
culture by means of irrigation. These mountains
are 10,000 feet high, and are covered with per-
petual snow. A great many travelers and tourists
visit Salt Lake City.
On leaving" here we have the choice of two
routes. One can return to Ogden, and there take
the Union Pacific Railroad, the straight line to
38 Around the World.
Omaha, or he can take the Denver & Rio Grande
road. The latter is the route I traveled in the
spring of 1886, and by so doing saw some of the
grandest mountain scenery in the State of Colo-
rado. Denver, the capital of this State, is a
thriving city of about seventy-one thousand in-
habitants. Thirty years ago it was a mining
camp, numbering less than two thousand souls.
It is said to be the most rapidly growing city in
America. From Capitol Hill we had a fine view
of the city, which is well laid out. The streets
contain many substantial buildings and many
beautiful private residences. The St. James Hotel
and the new Opera House are costly and elegant
structures. Mr. labor, an enterprising millionaire,
has erected several buildings, at a cost of a million
dollars each. Denver is situated at an altitude of
5,000 feet above the sea-level ; the climate is pecu-
liarly dry and healthful. It is surrounded by a
country which is rich in mines of gold, silver, coal,
iron and salt. It is by nature a railway centre.
At the present time there are eight tracks run-
nine in different directions, and there are more
railroads being built, which will pass through
Denver, and consequently help to swell the
traffic of an already busy city. Much of her pros-
perity is due to the sagacity of her business men.
Journeying eastward from Denver, we find our-
selves in a well improved and thickly settled farm-
(39)
40 Around the World.
ing country. All along the line of the railroad
are numerous cities and towns, until we reach
Topeka, the capital of Kansas. The next place
of importance after leaving Topeka is Kansas City,
in Missouri, which is also a great railway centre,
and is situated on the boundary line between Kan-
sas and Missouri.
Before going farther east, I will betake myself
to Ogden, and give a brief description of what can
be seen on this route,' over which I have traveled
three different times. After two hours' run from
Ogden, we enter the Weber Canyon. Here the
scenery is varied, and grand to behold. To the
left of the road is a peculiar wall or overhanging
red bluff. Lofty peaks which extend heavenward
arrest the eye. But these are soon left behind,
and we come upon new sights and scenes. We pass
Echo Canyon, Devil's Gate and Devil's Slide in
swift succession, and I soon found myself at Gran-
ger's Station, on the boundary line of Wyoming
Territory. This station is the terminus of the
Oregon Short Line. Here a traveler for the
Pacific coast can connect with the Northern Pacific,
and see the magnificent scenery in Idaho and
Washington Territory. He can go over the Cas-
cade Mountains, and travel along the Columbia
River to Portland,* or he can reverse his journey
and travel eastward and visit the National Yellow-
stone Park, and thus, by zigzagging around a few
Highest Railway Elevation. 41
hundred miles, can see some of the grandest and
most wonderful scenery in the world.
Traveling from Granger's Station alone the
main line of the Union Pacific, we arrive in a short
time at Sherman, the most elevated railroad station
on the continent, having an altitude of 8,235 feet.
East of Sherman, we are continually passing towns,
cities and sheds, rocky cliffs and precipices, until
at last we leave them all behind, and descend the
eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains. Arriving
at Cheyenne, one of the most important cities of
the Union Pacific, and the capital of Wyoming, we
find that we have traveled half the distance between
Ogden and Omaha. Cheyenne is situated on a
level prairie, and is quite a railway terminus. Here,
again, the tourist can make a break in the journey
if he desires, and visit Denver, a distance of 106
miles, by taking the Julesburg short line. This,
however, I consider a rather uninteresting route,
as it runs through an open country, destitute of
scenery, or any particular point of interest. The
ride through Nebraska to Omaha, on the Union
Pacific, is a very pleasant one. We traverse a
vast prairie, watered by the Platte River ; an
apparently endless number of horses and cattle
can be seen roaming at will, and grazing on the
plains ; in the far distance, one could occasionally
catch glimpses of herds of antelope or buffalo.
As we travel eastward, the towns become more
42 Around the World.
numerous, the country more thickly settled, and
better improved.
Omaha, a busy, bustling railroad centre, is sit-
uated on the Missouri River. This city has grown
like magic in the last twenty-six years ; in i860, it
had only 4,000 inhabitants; now it has a population
of 60,000. In 1S60, I crossed the plains from the
Missouri River to the Pacific coast in an ox team.
This was my second journey over the continent.
What a contrast between then and now ! On these
broad plains roamed herds of wild buffalo, and
travelers were always more or less at the mercy
of the Indians, who attacked the trains of emi-
grants and were always making raids on frontier
settlements. Our train was called Captain Here-
man's, of St. Louis, and consisted of about one
hundred emigrants. We were attacked by Indians
while camping near Salt Lake City ; the night was
dark, and, after a severe conflict and with the loss
of two of our number, we drove them off, but
not until they had stolen our stock and left us
destitute of teams. We were obliged to take our
choice between traveling on foot or remainine in
our wagons and starving. I was shortly afterward
attacked by a grizzly bear in the Sierra Nevada
Mountains, and had a narrow escape. These are
but incidents of the many hardships endured by
the pioneers of early days in their endeavors to
reach the golden shores of California. Contrast
Over the Southern Pacific Railroad. 43
the difference ! • Then it required five months to
make such a journey, and the weary, forlorn and
footsore traveler endured many hardships and
much privation. Danger was always staring him
in the face. Now the traveler over the same
route can sit in a palace car surrounded by many
comforts and luxuries, and in five days reach his
journey's end. The hostile savage has fled from
civilization, and the vast wilderness is filled with
new life, — towns and cities are springing up every-
where, the old hunting grounds have been con-
verted into well-tilled farms, and the whole country
bears evidence of that change which can only be
effected by the indomitable will and energy of a
free people.
I will now take the reader over the Southern
Pacific Railroad, and, when at my journey's end,
will have completed a description of all the various
routes that I have traveled across the continent.
This takes me back to San Francisco aeain as
the starting point, and here let me remark, that
the Eastern tourist in San Francisco will find many
points of interest to visit within a few hours' ride
from that city ; he will find much to see and admire
at Monterey and Santa Cruz, both noted watering
places. The Hotel del Monte, at Monterey, is one
of the finest hotels on the coast ; it is built in a
beautiful grove of live oaks. The grounds are
handsomely laid out, and the climate is unsurpassed
44 Around the World.
for mildness and evenness. Many tourists from
all over the world delight in wintering at this
famous resort. The Geysers, in Sonoma County,
are a great natural wonder, and are visited by all
travelers. The Big Trees and Yosemite Valley are
two of the greatest wonders of the world. The
Big Trees are gigantic evergreens, a species of
redwood, some of which are more than ioo feet in
circumference and 400 feet high. In the Calaveras
grove one was cut down which measured ninety-six
feet in circumference and over 300 feet high; its con-
centric rings showing its age to be about 3,000 years.
The Mariposa grove contains many large trees.
The Yosemite Valley is a remarkable chasm, ten
miles long, and three miles wide in its greatest
width, with perpendicular walls of granite from
3,000 to 5,000 feet high. It is one of the many
wonders sought out by tourists who visit California.
We start now on the Southern Overland for
New Orleans. The first part of the journey takes
us through the great San Joaquin Valley. In the
spring-time it is covered with fields of waving
grain; in the "fall," or autumn, the broad expanse
of yellow stubble shows that the husbandman has
reaped the reward of his toil. All along this val-
ley are numerous small towns and cities where
fifteen or twenty years ago there were no signs of
civilization. The broad plains and fertile valleys
were uncultivated and unappreciated. The Califor-
Los Anodes. 45
"a
nia farmer often counts his acres by the thousand,
and sometimes by tens of thousands. Leaving this
fertile valley behind, we enter a spur of the Sierra
Nevadas, and cross the summit at Tehachapi, where
there is some wonderful railway engineering in
what is called "The Loop." We soon pass over the
Loop, and reach Mojave, where we connect with the
Atlantic & Pacific Railroad. This road runs along
the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada Mountains,
and crosses the Colorado River at a point called
the u Needles," which are a peculiar formation of
rock extending high in the air above every other
object, and are visible for a great many miles.
This route is highly praised by tourists on account
of the scenery.
At Mojave the tourist can take the Atlantic &
Pacific or continue on with the Southern Pacific
via Los Angeles, the garden city of Southern Cal-
ifornia. This city is beautiful, with its gardens
and orchards, which contain a remarkable variety
of tropical and semi-tropical fruits and trees.
Amono- them are hundreds of thousands of oranee,
lemon, lime and fig trees, and an endless number
of grape-vines. Besides these are the pomegranate,
the palm, the cypress, and many others too numer-
ous to mention. The public buildings and the
educational and religious institutions are among
the best in the State. Five lines of railroad have
here a common centre. The Southern Pacific con-
46 Around the World.
nects the city with the general railway system of
the State and Union. The lines to Santa Monica
and Wilmington give ready access to the ocean.
The facilities for transporting, together with the
extraordinary fertility of the soil and salubrious
clime, make it a favorite resort, and the chief centre
of trade for Southern California. This city has
grown rapidly within the last few years, and now
contains nearly 50,000 inhabitants.
From here we continue our journey southward,
through a beautiful, fertile valley, until Colton,
another railway junction, is reached. Shortly after
leaving here, we begin to travel over the desolate
plains of Southern California As far as the eye
can reach, nothing can be seen but sage-brush and
hills and cactus until we arrive at Fort Yuma, on
the Colorado River. Near this river we crossed
a barren desert, the surface of which is below the
level of the sea, and through which the railroad
extends a distance of sixty-five, miles. Fort Yuma
is one of the hottest places in the United States.
The Yuma Indians, however, do not seem to mind
the heat ; they ramble over the hot sands in a
costume as scanty as that ascribed to Adam.
These indolent fellows exist without industry, and
appear to be born only to roam and die in the
wilderness. I visited, while here, the United States
Fort and the Territorial prison. The latter I found
well filled with Arizona criminals. I was informed
Through A T civ Mexico. 47
that very few of these culprits live to serve out their
sentence, on account of the extreme heat.
On our journey eastward, we cross desert after
desert, the route over which many immigrants
came to California in 1849, anc l tne years follow-
ing the gold excitement.
The first town of importance we arrive at after
leaving* Fort Yuma is Tucson, the largest town in
Arizona, and one of the oldest in the United States.
It lies in the fertile Santa Cruz Valley, is the centre
of many stage routes, and has an extensive trade
with the Territory and Northern Mexico. The pop-
ulation numbers about 7,000. Many of the build-
ings are of adobe, and bear the marks of age. In
a short time after leaving- Tucson, we reach Benson,
where there is a branch railway for Tombstone.
This city has a population of about 7,000, and is
surrounded by rich silver mines. In a few hours
after leaving Benson, we found ourselves in Lords-
burg, New Mexico, also situated among rich silver
mines. Continuing our journey, we soon arrive
at Deming, a general railway terminus, where the
traveler again has an opportunity of choosing
routes for the East. The Atchison, Topeka &
Santa Fe runs through an extensive pastoral re-
gion, and intersects the Atlantic & Pacific at
Albuquerque. This route I have been over once,
seeing a diversity of country, but no particular
point of interest.
48 Around the World.
The Southern Pacific, however, is the route I
intend to follow on this particular journey. After
leaving Deming, we travel for a hundred miles
over a parched and desolate region in the southern
portion of New Mexico. Arriving at El Paso, we
catch our first glimpse of Texas. This is the
largest city and greatest railway centre between
Los Angeles and San Antonio. At El Paso, by
slightly turning your eyes, you can view a State,
a Territory and another country. The Rio Grande
River divides El Paso, in Texas, from Paso del
Norte, in Old Mexico. Here the traveler who
is not pressed for time has a fine opportunity
to take a trip across the line and inspect Mexico
and Mexican customs. By taking the Mexican
Central Railroad, one can travel through this
country for several hundred miles, and form some-
thing of an estimate of its resources. After leav-
ing the thriving, enterprising American city of El
Paso, and crossing the river to the Mexican side,
one can not but be impressed with the contrast.
Everything bears the impress of age : the buildings
are old and of rude construction, and the imple-
ments used in tilling the soil must have been
patterned after those of the time of Moses. Not-
withstanding the rich soil and fine climate, this
slow-going country seems a hundred years behind
the times. Ninety miles eastward from El Paso,
we arrive at Sierra Blanca, where the Southern
Steamboat Racing on the Mississippi. 49
Pacific, or Sunset Route, diverges from the Texas
Pacific, and the tourist again has the choice of sev-
eral routes.
Should the traveler decide to continue on the
extreme southern route, he will travel the entire
breadth of Texas, see many of the principal cities
and towns, and pass over the most cultivated and
fertile portion of the State. On tiring of travel
by rail, he can take a steamer, and go to New
Orleans by way of the Gulf of Mexico, taking in
Louisiana, the land of cotton and cane ; and thence
up the Mississippi to St. Louis, and in this way
have a fine view of the numerous plantations that
border this great river. I have journeyed up the
Mississippi twice during the last ten years, and,
after a 2,000-mile ride by rail, found the change in
scene and motion quite refreshing. At one time I
happened to strike one of those exciting steamboat
races so often pictured on the. Mississippi, and
which are now a thing of the past. The excite-
ment ran so high that one immediately forgot the
danger of explosion, etc. The two boats would
travel for miles at the top of their speed, side by
side, each, of course, bent on victory. I have seen,
when the excitement was at its height, boxes of
bacon thrown into the furnace for fuel.
Should the traveler decide in favor of the Texas
Pacific and Missouri Pacific, he will also travel
the entire breadth of the State, but further north
50 Around the World.
than on the other road. This road I have been
over several times on account of my landed
interests in Central Texas. For the first three
hundred miles after leaving El Paso, the road
traverses a barren country destitute of any object
of interest save the prairie dogs and antelopes.
For miles along the road the plains are dotted
with cattle, and here can be seen, in all his
glory, the somewhat famous cow-boy, as he rides
over the plains on his prancing pony, sheltered by
a broad-brimmed hat which seems to have been
constructed with a view of defying the elements, as
it serves not only as a protection from the burning
sun, but, as the seasons change, is equally service-
able in wind or rain. For hundreds of miles along
this road can be seen neither church nor school-
house. The Police Gazette and Texas Siftings
seem to be the cow-boy's substitute for the Bible.
Arriving at Abilene, one of the largest wool centres
in the United States, we leave the wilderness
behind, and find ourselves once more in civiliza-
tion, and from here eastward prosperity and enter-
prise seem the rule all along the line of the road.
The next point of importance reached was Fort
Worth, where the road again diverges, and one can
take the Missouri Pacific, running up through the
Indian Territory, and from thence into Southern
Kansas, and on to Kansas City ; but it is our inten-
tion to journey more directly eastward, and we
Through Texas, Arkansas ajid Missouri. 51
continue our route in that direction until we reach
Dallas, a growing town thirty miles from Fort
Worth. We pass on, and soon reach Texarkana,
situated on the boundary line between Texas and
Arkansas, and here take our last glance at Texas,
a State larger than several kingdoms in Europe.
Traveling through Arkansas by way of the Iron
Mountain Railroad, we pass through a region of
swamps, cross the Red River at Shreveport, and also
pass through Little Rock, the capital of the State.
The main attractions along- the line of this road
were the negro cabins, corn fields and cotton plan-
tations. Journeying through the southern portion
of Missouri, we pass through a low, swampy region
which is heavily timbered. Here I noticed several
saw mills. One of the principal points of inter-
est is the famous Iron Mountain mines. These
mines, when in operation, employ several hundred
men. In this vicinity are several noted mineral
springs, which are great resorts for the health and
pleasure seeker. In the direction of St. Louis our
road runs along the Mississippi for some distance.
I passed over this route in the winter of 1884,
which was a winter of floods, and the train appeared
to be traveling in water half the time ; but, in a
less stormy winter, I should imagine this to be a
very pleasant route, as the climate is so much
milder than that of the sections traversed by the
roads running farther north.
(52)
Various Routes — A T iagara. 53
&'
If one remains over at St. Louis, he will, in all
probability, seek the best accommodations, which I
found at the Southern Hotel, the largest and most
magnificent hotel in the Southwest. As a guest I
have found it to be as good as it looks. In jour-
neying from St. Louis to New York, the traveler
may, with a slight loss of time and a little round-
about travel, visit all of the principal cities in the
central States. He can take in Louisville, Indian-
apolis, Cincinnati and Chicago. If he should
become wearied with mountain scenery, and care
nothing for the attractions in the Alleghanies, New
York or Saratoga, he can visit the cataract of
Niagara, the grandest waterfall in the world. The
water from the broad basin of four of the Great
Lakes here falls over a precipice 164 feet in height.
One can pass on through Canada, and visit Mon-
treal, the chief city of the Dominion, and, after
Chicago and Buffalo, the largest in the St. Law-
rence basin. On leaving here, a few hours' journey
either by water or rail will bring us to the busy
city of Quebec, the capital of the Province of
Quebec, and the second city in population in the
Dominion. This city is noted for its picturesque
scenery and severe climate. From here the tourist
may, if he desires, embark for the Old World.
In 1S53, the first time I touched American soil,
I traveled up the St. Lawrence, and was much im-
pressed with the falls, canals, and picturesque
54 Around the World.
scenery along its shores. From that day forth the
writer has been almost a constant traveler ; for
only three years afterward he joined the filibuster-
ing expedition of General William Walker, directed
against Nicaragua. We took the steamship Texas
at New Orleans. After an adventurous and some-
what stormy career, Walker was finally captured,
September 3, i860, condemned by a court martial,
and shot. Some of his volunteers died, and others
were shot by the natives. Those who escaped with
their lives were scattered in various directions,
some returning to New Orleans, and others to Cali-
fornia. I was amontr the latter. In the winter of
i860 I returned East. This was before the Cen-
tral Pacific Railroad was constructed. I embarked
on the steamship Illinois at San Francisco, crossed
the Isthmus of Panama, stopping at Acapulco and
Cuba. We had a calm and pleasant voyage on the
Pacific side, but an unusually stormy and unpleas-
ant one on the Atlantic. The voyage lasted
twenty-three days. Thus it will be readily seen
that the writer has been something of a traveler
during the last thirty years, and that he has within
that time experienced both pleasure and privation.
Many times has he been questioned in regard to
what he considered the most desirable route to
travel, and perchance this brief description of the
various points of interest to be seen on the different
highways may be of service to some other tourist.
Summer and Winter Routes. 55
There are many different routes and many dif-
ferent modes of travel over this continent, and to
decide for others as to what route would suit them
best would be a hard matter. In a word, they are
all good ; there is much of interest to be seen on
all of them. The season of the year would always
be an important factor to be taken into consider-
ation in making a choice. The southern overland
route would be preferable in winter, and the north-
ern in summer. It isn't exactly pleasant to be
snow-bound with the thermometer below zero in
the winter, neither would one enjoy the extreme
heat of Arizona and New Mexico in the summer.
56 Around the World.
CHAPTER II.
THE ATLANTIC AND THE BRITISH ISLES.
I departed from New York City at noon on the
nth of August, 1885, on tne steamship Wisconsin,
belonging to the famous Guion line, and bound
for Queenstown. As we slowly steamed out of
the harbor, all hands stood on deck to take a last
look at the receding shore. We could see the
long wharf lined with people waving their last
adieu to the friends who were going far away to
sojourn for a season among another people, and
in a foreign land. There were 200 passengers on
board, embracing many different nationalities, a
variety of professions, and nearly all grades of
society, from a nobleman to a California gold dig-
ger. Each had an object in view; many were
going to visit their friends, to return to the home of
their youth after a lapse of many years ; and, once
again on terra fir ma, this motley crowd would
become scattered from the Baltic Sea to the Medi-
terranean. Others were going with a view of
making a home somewhere in Europe, to settle
down and enjoy the portion accumulated in Amer-
ica ; but, strange to say, I was the only one in all
On the Atlantic. 57
that goodly number who entertained the idea of
making an entire circuit of the globe.
The first day out we were favored with a calm
sea, and we found " a life on the ocean wave " very
enjoyable ; but the second and third days our good
ship was tossed to and fro on the boisterous bil-
lows, and, as a natural consequence, many of the
passengers succumbed to that most disagreeable
feature of ocean travel, sea-sickness. At such time
I was generally to be found on the hurricane deck;
the fresh salt air seemed to help dissipate the
disagreeable feeling. The fourth and fifth days
were a repetition of the first. We sighted several
sailing craft, and enjoyed the unusual calmness
of the sea. Nearing Newfoundland, we were
enveloped in fog, and the music of the fog whistle
could be heard every few minutes. A man sta-
tioned at the bow was on a constant lookout, and
every once in a while we could hear him sing out,
"All well, forward." In every direction now could
be seen fishing boats, with their occupants busy
gathering in the spoils of the deep. We also
passed two dismantled hulks, which caused me to
ponder on the possible fate of their occupants, and
to wonder if we were to be consigned to the tender
mercies of old Neptune. On Sunday we had relig-
ious services on the quarter deck. It is the custom
on English steamers to hold some sort of service
every Sabbath. If there happens to be a clergy-
58 Around the World.
man on board, he generally conducts the services ;
if not, the captain generally reads a chapter from
the Bible. On the seventh day out we had a cool
breeze, and sighted quite a number of steamers
and sailing craft. The passengers were now get-
ting somewhat accustomed to the motion of the
boat, and were able to be out on deck. They were
also becoming well acquainted, and many differ-
ent kinds of amusement were devised for passing
away the time. We had several very enjoyable
concerts. For much of our pleasant times we were
indebted to a few interesting and jolly Philadelphia
ladies. On the eighth day we were introduced to a
gale which watered the hurricane deck, and sent us
all back to bed. We had no inclination to venture
out of our state-rooms, but were contented with
peeping through the port-holes at the storm. On
the ninth day we had a head wind, which impeded
our progress, and a defect was discovered in the
boiler. It is rather monotonous, I assure you, to
be obliged to stop in mid-ocean for repairs. How-
ever, accidents are liable to occur ; and, if one is
fired with an ambition to travel extensively in
foreign lands, he must fortify himself with patience,
courage, endurance, and last, but not least, coin.
On the morning of the tenth day we caught our
first glimpse of the coast of Ireland, a very welcome
sight to those who did not enjoy ocean travel, and
there were many. We cast anchor on the same
From Queenstown to Dublin. 59
day in the harbor at Queenstown, 3,000 miles from
New York. Queenstown has a poor harbor, and
heavily laden vessels are obliged to anchor quite a
distance from the shore. Passengers and freight
are transported to the mainland in tenders. The
waters in this vicinity were dotted with fishing boats,
and I was told that fishing was the principal
resource of the people who live along this coast.
After a brief survey of Queenstown, I was soon en
route for Dublin. The entire country between these
two places is densely populated and well improved.
The landscape, dotted with cozy homes, and gilded
by the rays from an August sun, was simply beauti-
ful. To a Californian accustomed to broad fields of
waving grain, with only an occasional farm house,
this door-yard farming seemed very small business
indeed. Here 8,000,000 people are crowded to-
gether, and derive their livelihood from less than
half the acreage on the Pacific slope, which has
a population of less than a million. But thorough
cultivation and fertilization force the soil to yield
to its utmost capacity. This, combined with a
diversity of crops, raising a few fine sheep and cat-
tle, and the utmost economy and industry, enables
these people to eke out an existence. In such a
densely populated country the poor have a hard
time to exist, and England's best statesmen have
devoted much time and attention to trying to
adjust the respective rights and privileges of land-
60
Around the World.
lord and tenant. I hardly consider myself a prophet;
still, I am willing to venture the prediction that this
generation will not live to see the Irish question
settled. Dublin, the metropolis of Ireland, is a city
of about 300,000 inhabitants. The plan of the city
is singularly simple. The River Liffey flows almost
through the centre from west to east, and bridges
connect' long lines of streets running north and
Dublin from the Liffey.
south. The communication between the two sides
of the city is ample, there being nine bridges in
a distance of about a mile and a half, and ferries
for the two miles of shipping between the last
bridge and the mouth of the river. Sackville
street is the finest avenue in Dublin : the houses,
however, are not uniform, and the street is not long
enough for its width ; while the Nelson pillar, itself
a beautiful object, blocks the view and interrupts
In Dublin. 61
traffic. On the other side of the Liffey, across the
Carlisle bridge, is Westmoreland street, with the
Bank of Ireland and Trinity College at the south-
ern end. At rigfht angles to Westmoreland street
is Dame street, unquestionably the best street in
the city. The houses are lofty and massive, and
more than one of them colossal. At one end is
Dublin Castle, and at the other, the great front of
the Bank of Ireland and of Trinity College. The
chief drawback to Dublin as a city is the sudden
transition from magnificence to meanness, and in
no part of it is there freedom from this unpleasing
contrast. In addition to this, the soil is so oozy
that, after even a slight shower, it is melted into
far-spreading lakes of mud.
The suburbs of Dublin constitute at present the
chief of the many attractions which the stranger
is wont to admire. Dublin is the seat of the Irish
courts of law and equity, from which appeal lies
only to the House of Lords. The means of edu-
cation are ample. The incessant contests between
the various religious denominations have had the
effect of imparting energy to all engaged in teach-
ing. Dublin has several noble edifices, the first
and greatest of which is the Bank of Ireland,
formerly the House of Parliament, which occupies
five acres. Trinity College is in itself a source of
pride to the city. Dublin Castle, being built of
brick, the greater portion of it is dingy ; but the
62 Around the World.
tower and chapel are handsome. The Custom
House is considered one of the chief ornaments of
the city. Among the manufactures are woolen
goods, silk and linen. The chief articles of export
are whisky and the famous Dublin porter.
After several days of rambling on the Isle of the
Shamrock, I started for London, by way of Liver-
pool. A portion of the distance we traveled by
rail, and the remainder of the journey by steamer.
On the 27th of August we anchored inside the
magnificent breakwater at Liverpool, and I was
soon engaged in inspecting one of the largest
shipping ports in the world. The commerce of
Liverpool extends to every part of the world ;
but probably the intercourse with America stands
pre-eminent, there being five lines of steamers
running to New York alone, besides lines to
many other American ports. The leading feature
of the city is the wharves and harbor, and here
can be seen the flag of nearly every nation on the
globe. The two principal railway lines between
Liverpool and London, a distance of 220 miles, are
the Midland and the Northwestern. I chose the
latter. We traveled at the rate of sixty miles an
hour, which was the fastest riding during my whole
tour ; and, for my part, I do not care to repeat the
experience, as I consider it too fast for safety. I
found the English railway system a novel, and, to
my mind, uncomfortable way, of traveling. I do
The Prince of Wales and Family.
(63)
64 Around the World.
not enjoy being locked up in a compartment with
half a dozen strangers.
The road between Liverpool and London runs
over a fertile and somewhat level country, lined
with cities and smaller towns, the whole country
being densely settled, and under a high state of
cultivation ; and I was again face to face with a
country greatly in contrast with California in the
size and cultivation of the farms. Here we see what
can be done by industry and thorough cultivation;
here a million exist with comfort on an area which in
our country is occupied by a few thousand. Should
the traveler prefer mountain scenery to that of a
level agricultural district, he should travel by the
Midland Railroad. We at last reach London, the
metropolis of England, and the chief city of the
British Empire. It is situated on both banks of
the River Thames, and has an area of 123 square
miles, and a population of about 4,000,000. A
detailed description of the city would fill a volume,
and the books written upon the subject are so numer-
ous that they would fill a library many times over
of themselves. I will content myself with men-
tioning a few of the principal points of interest.
I made Charing Cross Hotel my headquarters,
on account of its central location. The streets
within the city limits are in many cases confused
and intricate ; and the total absence of plan in the
construction of the nucleus of London has doubt-
London. 65
less tended to aggravate the confusion outside
the old boundaries. Much of the effect of the fine
architecture of the city's streets is totally lost from
promiscuous crowding, and the main connecting
streets between the city and the West End dis-
play, at certain parts, much meanness and incon-
gruity. Regent street, the most fashionable
throughfare of London, possesses ample width,
and the splendor of its shops atones to some extent
for the plain monotony of its regular architecture.
In Oxford street, which ranks next to it in impor-
tance, there are many buildings of a more orna-
mental character. Piccadilly, the eastern half of
which is occupied chiefly by shops, and the western
by dwelling houses and clubs, is a medley of every
species of architecture. Close to the most fashion-
able regions, there are many mean back streets,
tenanted by workmen ; but the principal territory
of the working classes is comprehended in the
dense and dreary districts east and southeast of
the city. I was much impressed with the activity
of business. The confusion of vehicles, such as
carts, hacks, hansoms, wagons, tramway cars, etc.,
all combined to keep up an incessant din from
dawn until dark, and from dark until dawn again.
The Metropolitan and Metropolitan District
Railway lines, which run partly under ground, and
form almost a complete belt around the inner circle
of London, with several branches intersecting it,
5
(66)
Exhibition of Inventions. 67
and others communicating" with various suburban
lines, have proved invaluable in relieving the throng
of vehicles on the streets, and in affording rapid
communication between important points. I was
much interested in this underground railway. Every
short distance the cars stop at a platform with a
flight of stairs, upon which passengers can ascend
to the street or descend to the cars. I consider
this railway one of the greatest and most useful
enterprises in London.
I can not call to mind any occurrence on
the whole journey that gave me so much pleas-
ure as did my visit to the Exhibition of Inven-
tions. This immense building, or rather series
of buildings, is filled with tools and models of
machinery of every kind, from a hand saw to a
steam engine. I had the pleasure of riding in a
car run by electricity, and it worked like a charm.
It would not be surprising if ere long many of the
street cars in California should use electricity for
the motive power. Nearly every nation on the
globe was here represented by some invention.
Amonor the exhibits from America I noticed alar^e
collection of the celebrated Waltham watches.
These were awarded the first prize. For the fee of
one shilling, we had access to all parts of the build-
ing. The place was literally packed with people.
All nationalities were represented, and the confused
murmur of voices reminded me of the tower of Babel.
68
Around the World.
Another place I visited with pleasure and profit
was the Grain Exchange, in Mark Lane. This
might properly be called the balance wheel of the
world's wheat market. Its movements are watched
with interest by farmers in all parts of the world.
I there saw samples of grain from nearly all the
grain-growing countries. As a farmer I derived
much valuable information in regard to the quality
The Tower of London.
and production of different kinds of grain. Here
could be seen buyers and sellers from every part of
Europe. It was with pleasure and satisfaction
that I observed that our California wheat stood the
test, and was unsurpassed in quality by that grown
by our neighbors across the Atlantic. I also visited
the Crystal Palace, the Tower Water Works and the
various parks. Buckingham Palace, the residence
The Tozver of London. 69
of Queen Victoria, occupies the site of Buckingham
House, purchased by George III. in 1761.
The Tower of London is always a great attrac-
tion to the traveler, and the place is thronged with
people from morning until night, each paying their
penny as they pass through the gate. This tower
was, according to tradition, originally built by
Julius Caesar ; but the nucleus of the present build-
ing was begun in 1078, by William the Conqueror,
who erected the part now known as the White
Tower. This tower was completed in 1098.
Additions were made at various periods, and it
now occupies an area of thirteen acres, surrounded
by a moat constructed in 1 190. The new Palace of
Westminster, built at a cost of about ^3,000,000
on the site of the old palace, which was destroyed
by fire in 1835, is a vast and ornate building in the
Tudor-Gothic style, covering altogether an area
of about eight acres. At the northeast corner is
the clock tower, 320 feet in height. Above the
dome over the central hall a spire rises to the
height of 300 feet ; and the Victoria Tower, 340
feet high, surmounts the royal entrance at the
southwest corner. The central hall, which is
entered by St. Stephen's Porch and St. Stephen's
Hall, separates the House of Peers, which, along
with the royal rooms, occupies the western portion
of the building, from the House of Commons, to
which the eastern portion is assigned.
70 Around the World.
The National Gallery of Paintings, in Trafalgar
Square, contains some of the finest specimens of
the English school of painting, besides many fine
examples of the old masters. St. Paul's Cathedral
is remarkable for its massive simplicity and beauti-
ful proportions. The interior is imposing from its
vastness. Some of the monuments of the old
building are preserved in the crypt, where also are
the tombs of many of England's most distinguished
men. This cathedral is built in the form of a
Latin cross, the length being 500 feet, and the
breadth at the transepts 250 feet; the dome rises
to a height of 365 feet, or of 404 feet to the top of
the cross by which it is surmounted, the height of
the interior dome being 225 feet. It can only be
equaled in grandeur by the Cathedral of Milan, or
surpassed by St. Peter's, in Rome. The unique
commercial position of London, and its intercourse
with every quarter of the globe, have assisted to
make it financially, in a more complete sense than
it is commercially, the metropolis of the world.
The docks present a busy scene, and there can
always be seen a host of vessels, some at their
moorings, others coming and going to and from all
parts of the earth. I also visited the Bank of
England, the largest institution of the kind in the
world. Among the other points of interest I found
time to visit were the famous Scotland Yards, the
Exchange of Industry, the imposing statues of
The Suffering Poor.
U
Lords Nelson and Wellington, Cleopatra's Needle,
the operas, theatres and museums, and Madame
Tussaud's wax-works.
In so large a city as London, there is much suf-
fering and distress among the poorer classes. I
was told that a majority of the families in the tene-
ment houses subsisted largely on bread and ale. If
Westminster Abbey.
I should base my opinion on the number of miser-
able objects I saw staggering around in a state of
intoxication, I would naturally be led to the con-
clusion that ale or intoxicating liquor of some kind
formed the principal diet of these poor creatures.
Much of the crime committed can probably be
attributed to the same source. It would require
72 Around the World.
months to see all the sights of London, or to get
any definite idea of this immense city ; and, as my
time was limited to a few days, I could only take in
a few of the principal points of interest. " Hotel
bills, car fare, and general expenses were more in
London than in any other place I visited in Europe.
The people, with few exceptions, I found to be
generous and obliging, and I was not so tormented
with runners, cabmen and waiters trying to get a
fee as in Italy and other places on the Continent.
London alone would have repaid me for visiting
England.
The next place visited was Glasgow. This city,
after London, is the most populous in Great
Britain. It is situated on the banks of the River
Clyde. Glasgow has been almost exclusively a
commercial city for the last half-century, and has a
great variety of manufacturing interests. While
no one of the great industries occupies a position
of predominant importance, so as to stamp itself
as the peculiar characteristic of the town, there are
numerous leading departments of industry which
have long been established, and are prosecuted on
a large scale, while a variety of special manufac-
tures have found their principal centre in Glasgow
and the Clyde Valley. Ship-building is the great-
est of all the industries of Glasgow, and the posi-
tion attained by the ship-builders of the Clyde is
a matter of imperial consequence and national
Ship-building on the Clyde.
73
pride. In some years about half the total tonnage
built in the United Kinorlom has been launched
from the banks of the Clyde. The work turned
out is very diversified, but, as a rule, of the highest
order. It includes armor-plated and other vessels
for the Royal Navy ; mail and passenger ocean
The Old University of Glasgow.
steamers, for the great transatlantic and other lines;
river steamboats, famous throughout the world for
swiftness and elegance of appointments ; merchant
sailing vessels; dredging plant and hopper barges.
With the exception of a very small proportion of
wooden vessels, the whole of the shipping built on
the Clyde is of iron and steel. The thoroughbred
74 Around the World.
cattle I saw during my visit to Glasgow were supe-
rior to any that I have seen elsewhere. I had the
pleasure of visiting several breeding establish-
ments, and seeing some of the famous Clydesdale
horses. I noticed a vast difference between these
Scotch steeds and the horses of Northern Europe.
My next destination is France. I journeyed by
the way of London to Dover, which is about three
hours' ride from the metropolis, the road traversing
a well-cultivated and somewhat broken country.
Before crossing the Channel, I hope the reader will
pardon me if I digress a little, and comment again
on the English railway system, and the highly cul-
tivated lands I saw. Perhaps the latter struck me
more forcibly than it otherwise would have done had
it not been a siodit in such marked contrast to what
I have been accustomed to see at home. I believe
I never saw an acre of land in England that was
not well and thoroughly cultivated. I suppose this
high state of cultivation is necessitated by the high
rent, which necessarily compels the tiller of the soil
to force the land to yield to its utmost capacity.
The snug and cozy homes, surrounded by a small
patch of well-tilled land, all had an appearance of
comfort and thrift. The railway tariff in England
is rather lower than in the United States, first-class
fare beine about two cents a mile. However in-
convenient and uncomfortable the English railway
system may appear to an American, it is generally
Customs of the Country. 75
adopted on the Continent, in India, Australia and
Japan. For my part, I did not admire the con-
struction of the cars ; they are coupled closely to-
gether, and the passenger must climb in a side
door, as there is no platform at either end of the
car. Each car is divided into small compartments,
capable of holding six or eight passengers. As soon
as the train starts, the door is locked until you
arrive at the next station. I sometimes heard peo-
ple complain, that in case a robbery or some cr me
was committed while the train was in motion, one
would be at the mercy of the depredator, as there
is no communication between the different com-
partments. However, the passengers are not kept
in "durance vile" for any great length of time, as,
in this densely populated country, the distance be-
tween stations is very short. The conductor walks
from car to car on a narrow plank, which is only a
foot or two above the ground. No one is allowed
to board the train while in motion, and this rule is
strictly enforced.
Another custom which appeared odd to me was
that of women acting in the capacity of bar-tend-
ers, at railway stations, inns, or taverns. Often-
times when stopping at a station I would see a
half-dozen of these damsels busily engaged in deal-
ing out liquors, coffee and sandwiches to the hungry
and thirsty crowd. However strange this may
appear to a traveler from the other side o'f the At-
V6 Around the World.
lantic, these bar-maids are considered respectable,
and you never see any of them under the influence
of liquor. This seems to be one of the old and
well-established customs of the country, probably
made necessary by the fact that the women largely
outnumber the men, — more so, I believe, than in
any other country in Europe. Another point in
their favor is that the amount of remuneration they
expect to receive is small, and they are generally
more reliable and attend more strictly to business
than the men.
From Dover to Calais. 77
CHAPTER III.
FRANCE, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA.
At Dover I embarked for Calais, in France, and,
on arriving there, for the first time realized that I
was a stranger in a strange land. Traveling in
Great Britain, where the English language was
continually spoken, I felt more at home than in a
country where on either hand I heard people talk-
ing in an unfamiliar tongue ; and, as I had never
been taught \o parlez Fran?az's, not a single word
uttered was intelligible to me. Calais is a fortress
of the first class, and was formerly a place of great
strength ; but it would now probably not be able
to defend itself long against modern artillery.
Steamers carrying the mails cross twice a day to
Dover, and return. It is the principal landing
place for English travelers on the Continent. In
traveling from country to country, the first bus-
iness I found it necessary to engage in was to have
my money exchanged for the coin of the country I
was traveling in, as it is almost impossible to turn
around without spending money. I now had to
convert my pounds, shillings and pence into francs
and centimes ; and here I will say that I found the
78 Around the World.
most useful friend and companion on a journey
like mine to be a long letter of credit. In Europe,
Africa, India and Australia, I found English coin
preferable to any other. In a tour around the
world one travels more in English territory and on
English steamers than on any other; and, as En-
glish coin is largely circulated, and its value well
known in the Oriental world, one is less liable to
be swindled by money exchangers and brokers, in
using it, than he would be if he was continu-
ally having his money exchanged. Japan and
the Sandwich Islands are the only countries in
which I found American money to be the most
desirable.
I had no sooner landed on French soil than I
found myself surrounded by swarms of guides, or
runners, who all offered their services in a most
polite manner. It was " Monsietir this," and " Mon-
sieur that;" "May I show you the cab," " the
hotels," '' the sights," u attend to your baggage ;"
and they even wished to hang up my hat. As
they expect to be remunerated for the slightest
service, it is sometimes preferable, being more
profitable, to wait upon one's self. At times their
officiousness became so annoying that I was
tempted to wish the last servant out of sight. On
my first attempt to leave Calais for Paris, I failed,
by some mischance, to get aboard the train in time;
and, as I saw it leaving the depot, I realized that
Paris. 79
the train and my baggage were gone, and that I
was left behind. As the train was not yet fully
under motion, I thought I would try the American
plan of running, and jumping aboard ; but I was
promptly stopped by a French official, who informed
me that I must wait until the next train. He was
very polite, however, and, after a long string of
words, pointed to his watch and made me under-
stand that another train would soon be along. In
a very short time I was on another train, speeding
swiftly along in the direction of Paris.
After five hours' ride over a beautiful agricul-
tural country, I found myself in the gayest city in
the world. I first turned my attention to my lug-
gage, which was safely deposited in the Custom
House. After using a mixture of several languages
and a variety of signs, and paying a fee of one
franc, it was handed over. I always found it more
convenient and safer to keep in close proximity to
my luggage. My next step was to hire an inter-
preter; and there proved to be an abundance of
them, rendering it unnecessary to go for them, as
they always came to you. After a certain amount
of bargaining and bickering, I agreed to pay mine
six francs a day; and he, in return, agreed to show
me all of the sights and curiosities, both ancient
and modern, in the city of Paris. He recom-
mended himself very highly, and said he was an
expert in the English language, and one of the
(80)
Hotel Life. 81
best guides in Paris. As a matter of fact, he
spoke about ten per cent. English, and the balance
French.
He first piloted me to an hotel of his own choos-
ing, which bore the name of Hotel de Strasbourg.
The host was French, and so were the guests. My
breakfast was served at eight o'clock in my room,
lunch at one, and dinner at from seven to eight.
We had every imaginable dainty from a horse to a
hare ; the tables were resplendent with silver and
glassware, the waiters were polite and attentive ;
and the spacious dining hall, lighted by electricity,
in the evening presented a brilliant scene. The
waiters always expect to be "tipped," especially by
American travelers. The cafes in the boulevards,
I found to be one of the most interesting features
of Paris. Here are tables strung out along the
sidewalks the length of several blocks, where the
Parisian men and women sit and sip their wine,
apparently oblivious to the crowd around them. If
one should sit down at one of these tables and call
for coffee instead of wine, they would be served
with black coffee in a wine-glass, and then be pro-
vided with another glass filled with brandy to mix
with the coffee.
Among some of the first-class restaurants are the
Cafe Americaine, on the Boulevard des Capucines ;
Anglo-Americaine, Ruede la Chausseed'Antin; and
the Grand Hotel, near the Louvre. Hotel rates
6
82 Around the World.
vary from one franc and fifty centimes to five francs,
according" to the bill of fare and hour of meals. It
is generally well to make a bargain beforehand
with landlords, guides and cabmen, as there seems
to be a tendency among all of them to fleece
strangers, especially Americans. The principal
mode of traveling between different portions of the
city is by cabs, omnibuses and tramways. The
tops of the coaches have comfortable seats, and
about as many passengers ride outside as inside.
The tramway fare is thirty centimes, or six cents
for an inside fare, and about half that amount for
an outside fare.
The grandest of all the grand sights which I saw
in Paris was the Palace of the Louvre. This is
occupied by the richest museum in the city. On
the ground floor are museums of ancient sculpture.
There can be seen such treasures as the Venus of
Milo and the Pallas of Velletre, the most beautiful
of all statues of Minerva. Special rooms are de-
voted to early Christian monuments and Jewish
antiquities. On the first floor there is a magnifi-
cent collection of pictures, furniture, drawings, pot-
tery, terra-cotta ware ; as well as objects in bronze,
glass and ivory. The second floor accommodates
the naval museum, part of the French school of
painting, and rooms for the study of Egyptian
papyrus-rolls. The Luxembourg Palace has a free
museum containing one of the finest art collections
lTlljfrrni|:!i|ijiiim|iiiiiii|!|mii|mmi|!(ir { '|
(83)
84 Around the World.
in France, and the grounds, comprising eighty-five
acres, are laid out in beautiful gardens.
Paris has about sixty theatres, of which the
Grand Opera House, or National Academy of
Music and Dancing, is the largest and most beau-
tiful. This magnificent structure covers two and
three-fourths acres, and is the finest in the world.
The next place I had my guide point out to me
was the Place de la Concorde. This occupies
rather an elevated situation, and Paris can be seen
in almost every direction. The chief point of
interest in the square is eight imposing statues
representing the chief towns of France. From the
centre, where stands the Cleopatra Needle, many
of the most imposing edifices of Paris can be seen.
One has a fine view of the Chamber of Deputies,
the Madeleine and the River Seine. The Palace
of Trocadero, which was built for the exhibition of
1878, also occupies an elevation on the right bank
of the Seine. The central rotunda contains the
largest music hall in Paris, and a colossal organ.
It will hold 15,000 auditors. An exceedingly fine
view of the city and the suburbs can be had from
the dome.
The Champs-Elysees is an attractive promenade,
lined with elm and lime trees. The Elysees Palace,
in the Champs-Elysees, is a vast edifice, built in
modern style, and is the residence of the President
of the French Republic. The Palais Royal is
(85)
**
86 Around the World.
also a favorite place of resort, both for the Parisian
and the tourist. The court and square are lined
with shops, which present a most brilliant display
in jewelry and every variety of trinkets. At night
these arcades are a blaze of light, and presented
one of the most magnificent sights of my whole
journey.
My guide now, for a change of scene, piloted me
across the River Seine. This beautiful river flows
for seven miles through Paris, and, as it enters and
as it leaves the city, it is crossed by a viaduct, used
by the circular railway and by ordinary traffic.
That of Point de Jour has two stories of arches.
Two bridges, the Pont des Arts and the Passerelle
de Passy, are for foot passengers only, all the others
being used for carriages as well. The most fa-
mous of all these bridges is the Pont Neuf, the
two portions of which rest on the extremity of the
island called La Cite, where the river is at its wid-
est (961 feet). On the embankment below Pont
Neuf stands the statue of Henry IV. Between
La Cite and the left bank the width of the lesser
channel is reduced to 161 feet. La Cite also com-
municates with the right bank by the bridges of
Notre Dame and Au Change ; with the left bank,
by that of Archeveche, the so-called Pont au
Double, the Petit Pont and the Pont St. Michel.
The banks of the Seine are lined with palaces and
mansions, the water is dotted with boats of every
Napoleon — Admiral C our bet. 87
description, and its numerous bridges are con-
stantly thronged with people.
I visited the tomb of the first Napoleon. This
grand memorial is placed in the Church of the In-
valides ; a stately dome is erected over the sarcoph-
agus which contains his remains, and over the
entrance is this inscription (taken from his will) :
lt It is my wish that my ashes may repose on the
banks of the Seine, in the midst of the French peo-
ple, whom I have loved so well." In various parts
of the city there are magnificent statues represent-
ing Napoleon on horseback.
While in Paris I attended the funeral services of
Admiral Courbet, who died in China, and whose re-
mains were brought to Paris for burial. The
funeral was almost as imposing as that of General
Grant, which I had attended in New York City.
In fact, this Admiral was almost as famous in
France as General Grant was in America. One of
his latest deeds of prowess in the French Navy
was to sink eleven ships in the China Sea in about
as many minutes. In return for this friendly act
the Emperor of China offered a reward of $100
for the head of every Frenchman sent him. The
majority of my readers will call to mind the brief
Franco-China conflict that occurred a few years
ago. Since then travel in the interior of China
has been considered unsafe for Europeans, espe-
cially Frenchmen.
•vs Around the World.
The largest and finest religious building in Paris
is the Cathedral of Xotre Dame. The attractions
and places of interest worthy of attention are so
numerous that it would require more time than I
had then to see, or have now to describe, them. I
certainly saw people dressed more elegantly and in
more fashionable attire than I ever saw before or
since. One of the happiest thoughts of my visit
to this great city was that there seemed to be more
wealth and less poverty than in any other city
visited by me. Considering the fact that I was a
stranger to both the customs and the language of
the French people, my stay in Paris was a very
enjoyable one, and I hope, some day in the near
future, to revisit this charming city. I agree with
other travelers, that the Parisians deserve the repu-
tation they have long enjoyed of being the politest,
gayest and most fashionable people in the world.
On leaving Paris, I boarded the cars for Berne,
in Switzerland. On this route we passed many
towns and cities. We journeyed over a rolling
country; the soil was fertile, and vegetation every-
where luxuriant. The land was planted principally
to grape-vines and vegetables, and had very much
the appearance of a garden. No matter in what
direction you travel in France, you find a lovely
country, a pleasant climate and a hospitable and
polite people. On every side can be seen evidence
of the thrift and industry of the French people, —
Switzerland. 89
well cultivated fields and cozy and comfortable
homes.
Arriving 1 at the end of the French Division, we
found ourselves at the city of Wilhausen, which is
near the border line between France and Switzer-
land. Continuing our journey over a beautiful
country, we arrived at the city of Basel, the second
largest city in Switzerland, situated on the banks
of the Rhine. Its inhabitants are largely engaged
in the manufacture of silk
Switzerland is chiefly a land of mountains, and
is one of the most remarkable countries on the
globe for its magnificent and picturesque scenery.
The higher Alps rise to a distance of from S.oooto
15,000 feet above the level of the sea, and are cov-
ered with perpetual snow. The glaciers of Switz-
erland are the reservoirs which feed some of the
largest rivers of Western Europe. No country
possesses greater interest for geologists. To the
tourist it presents a great abundance of natural
curiosities. There are many points of view
whence the semicircular array of Alpine peaks
presented at once to the eye, extends for more than
a hundred and twenty miles, and comprises between
two and three hundred distinct summits capped
with snow, and bristling with bare rocks. Of the
heights commanding such Alpine panoramas, the
Righi is probably the finest, as it certainly is one
of the most accessible.
90 Around the World.
Switzerland has numerous waterfalls. The fall
of the Rhine deserves the first rank on account of
the volume of water ; but it is rather a cascade
than a cataract, as it lacks height. There are
many other celebrated falls. The principal and
most interesting of the Swiss Alpine passes are
the Simplon, the St. Gothard, the Splugen and the
Bernardin, both as regards their scenery and the
magnificent and skillfully constructed carriage
roads which have been made over them. Switzer-
land contains a considerable number of lakes,
among the most important of which are Lakes
Geneva, Lucerne and Zurich. In many places
we see the land cultivated clear to the hill-tops.
The mountain side is dotted with cottages, and one
is almost inclined to wonder that the houses built
upon these steep slopes do not roll off into the
gulch below.
On August 27 we arrived at Berne, the third city
in size, and the capital of Switzerland. It is sur-
rounded by vineyards, and has a mild, balmy cli-
mate and a rich soil. Berne is an old city, and its
architecture is certainly odd as well as old. The
houses are chiefly constructed of stone or granite,
as this is a region of quarries, and this material is
both cheap and plentiful. Many of the houses
have broad porches which project over the sidewalk
below. This gives the streets, which are narrow,
a somewhat gloomy appearance. One of the chief
Berne — Aar. 91
attractions of the city is the number of playing
fountains. These are ornamented with bears'
heads and various other figures. Berne is also
quite a manufacturing centre, and a large number
of watches and toys are manufactured here. I
visited several establishments, and found the greater
proportion of the operatives to be women. There
are also several lar^e mills driven with water-
power derived from the River Aar. This swiftly
flowing stream runs through the lower portion of
the city.
The people chiefly spoke the German language.
This language I found easier to understand without
an interpreter than any other. The people were
apparently kind hearted and good humored ; the
hotel bills and servants' fees, the most moderate of
any place on the Continent. Five francs, or one
dollar, per day, is all the first-class hotels charge.
Here, again, I saw women acting as bar-keepers,
porters and waiters in the public houses. On
many occasions they have come into my room at
dawn of day, got my shoes, and given them a fine
polishing. It was something of a novelty to me
to have my shoes blacked by a rosy-cheeked
maiden. I also visited Aar, another interesting
city. It is surrounded by grand and picturesque
scenery. This ended my first visit to Switzerland,
the playground of Europe. I returned, however,
three months later, after I had made the circuit of
92 Around the World.
the Continent. The incidents of that visit to this
interesting republic I will briefly mention in another
chapter.
LETTER FROM SWITZERLAND.
Special Correspondence Modesto Herald.
Berne, Switzerland, Sept. i, 1885.
This time I will only have room to give you a glimpse of the outline of
my trip since I left Modesto. I have been in constant motion from rail to
steamer, and from steamer to rail, until I have traveled over nine thousand
miles, and I have only made a good beginning of my tour around the globe
I steamed out of the Golden Gate on the 27th of July for Portland, Oregon,
800 miles on that coast. The Pacific was not pacific, as was noticed by so
many passengers feeding the fishes, — myself included. Portland, twelve
miles above the mouth of the Willamette River, is a stirring city of 40,000
inhabitants. Ships are seen along the wharves loading wheat for Europe.
From Portland I left by the express train for St. Paul, on the Northern
Pacific Railroad, and soon found myself hurried over the Cascade Mountains
into Eastern Oregon. Cascades along the Columbia River have the grandest
scenery in the West. At Wallula Junction I crossed the boundary line into
Washington Territory, where I traveled for 100 miles ; but, after leaving the
Snake River, the land seemed unimproved and barren of vegetation until I
got to the Idaho line. Spokane Falls is the largest and one of the most
important places in Washington Territory. I crossed the corner of Idaho
for eighty miles, and found it thickly timbered, and adapted more for grazing
than grain growing. We next moved into Montana, the finest stock
country on the Northern Pacific Railroad. At Heron we entered the slopes
of the Rocky Mountains, and the scenery was imposing when viewing those
towering peaks and glittering streams. Helena, the capital, is a flourishing-
city of 10,000 inhabitants, located near the headwaters of the Missouri
River, and surrounded by mountains pointing to the skies. East of Helena
I was much impressed with the extensive grazing valleys, green meadows
and gravelly hills. At Livingston we left the main line for Yellowstone
Park. Here I met tourists from many parts of the globe, investigating the
grandest pyramidic sights in the world. Even here in Switzerland I haven't
seen anything to compare with it. I now resume my journey on the main
line. Glendive, an important trading post, is the last station in sight after
traveling 800 miles, — the extreme length of Montana. The iron horse has
now sent me across the boundary line into Dakota. Medora is the first sta-
Letter from Szuitzerland. 93
tion in sight from here for fifty miles. The soil is of all varieties and colors,
called the bad lands, and presents an interesting appearance to sight-seers.
The next important station we passed was Dickson, located in a fine
grazing region. It also had the appearance of a good game region, from
the variety of stuffed deer and wolves in sight and for sale at the depot. On
the east bank of the Missouri stands Bismarck, the capital of Dakota.
From here on to the Minnesota line, Dakota made a favorable change to a
level, productive farming country, but barren of timber along the line. The
main attraction in Dakota was the large Dalrymple farm, with 75,000 acres
under cultivation. This reminded me of our extensive farming in California,
— the garden-spot of the earth, on account of her even climate and natural
resources. Moorhead, on the east bank of the Mississippi, was the first
glimpse of Minnesota, after traveling 350 miles through Dakota. This
great green State showed signs of wealth and prosperity by the many
improved farms, especially in the Red River Valley ; and, were it not for its
high latitude, Minnesota would equal any State in the Union.
I soon found myself in Minneapolis, the Queen City of the Northwest,
with a population of 125,000, and the largest milling point in the world. St.
Paul, the same size as Minneapolis, is also a great city, with its large whole-
sale houses, and has the largest hotels north of Chicago.
From here I resumed my journey to Wisconsin, where I made a brief
stay among old friends. Thence to New York City, via Washington City and
Philadelphia, where I inspected the United States Mint, and the seat of our
government. I arrived in New York August 8, in time to take a part in Gen-
eral Grant's funeral procession, — the most imposing affair of the kind ever
known in America. After looking over New York, with its million and a
half inhabitants, and thickly planted with houses for twelve miles, from
Harlem River to Castle Garden, I left the harbor on the nth of August, on
board the steamship Wisconsin, for Queenstown, with about 200 fellow-
passengers of different nationalities, — all going to Europe to enjoy the bene-
fits of the portions they had accumulated in America. After eleven days, in
which we had journeyed 3, ego miles over the stormy Atlantic, I found
myself safely landed in the Old World. Since that I have visited Ireland,
England and France. Have spent the most of my time in London and
Paris ; but I am now among the lofty mountains of Switzerland. From here
I am going to Vienna, and so on until I have been over the whole Continent
of Europe.
Notwithstanding the difficulties I have met with in contending with
strange tongues, and being a stranger in strange lands, I have enjoyed my
trip to the fullest extent, and all the objects of interest in this realm I will
speak of more particularly in my next. Osmun Johnson,
94 Around the World.
I next visited Bavaria. Arriving at Boden See,
a beautiful lake situated between Switzerland and
Bavaria, I embarked on one of the small steamers
that traverse the lake. This boat was crowded
with tourists of various nationalities, all intent on
pleasure and sight-seeing. On this boat I partici-
pated in one of the biggest dinners I had spread
before me while in Europe ; it consisted of thirteen
courses, and would have satisfied the most fastid-
ious epicure. After steaming across the Boden
See, I landed in Lindau, a beautiful pleasure resort,
surrounded, on one side, by picturesque mountain
scenery, and, on the other, by the waters of the
lovely lake. The streets are crooked and narrow,
and the inhabitants slow-going and easy. The low
stone buildings have an ancient appearance.
After a brief stay in Bavaria I made preparations
to visit Austria. After passing the town of Blu-
dens, we began to gradually ascend a lofty range
of the Alps, where the scenery, for sublimity and
grandeur, exceeded anything I have seen. Noth-
ing in the Sierra Nevadas or Rocky Mountains can
begin to compare with it. Among the higher
peaks from which we obtained a fine view were
Katzencliff, Davena and Racier. These snow-
capped peaks tower for thousands of feet above the
level of the sea. As the train wound its way up
the steep and narrow grade, a glance out of the
car window almost made one shiver ; on every side
Austria. 95
were deep gulches, steep cliffs and crags. The
engineering on this road is a magnificent piece of
work. Tunnels are numerous, and many of them
difficult to construct. The longest one, called
Alberg, requires twenty minutes to pass through.
Every little while we would pass small patches
of land cultivated by the industrious peasants, who
know nothing else but work. Here the women
work in the field, and do all kinds of manual labor.
By close economy and untiring industry these poor
people manage to exist. One suit of homespun
clothes for Sunday wear, is supposed to last a man
a lifetime. They are always worn on holidays and
on all ceremonious occasions, when they are deco-
rated with ancient jewelry which has been handed
down from generation to generation.
We soon arrived at Innsbruck, where we changed
cars for Kufstein and Salzburg, where the road
skirted the shore of a little lake, partly enclosed by
rugged hills. From here the road traverses the
level valleys of Austria, which seemed to be devoted
to agriculture. I often saw women plowing in the
field with a team composed of a horse, steer and
cow. The grain is cut and threshed principally
with hand tools. Very little machinery is used or
seen in these districts, and the farms in these
tucked-up kingdoms of Europe have the appear-
ance of paddocks to one acquainted with the vast
grain fields of California, where machinery is used
96 Around the World.
exclusively in the cultivation of the soil and the
harvesting of the crops. Here in the whole realm
main strength and stupidity seemed to be the mo-
tive power.
I arrived in Vienna on September 5. It is a dis-
tance of 600 English miles from Paris to this city.
I must confess that it was a rather uncomfortable
journey. The cars were constructed on the
English plan, and I never quite enjoyed being
locked up in these small compartments, with three
or four strangers in such close proximity. I have
already praised the American system, which I con-
sider the most comfortable in the world. On the
other hand, the European conductor is a much
more civil individual than his American contem-
porary ; he will answer questions freely and politely,
and will talk to a stranger like any other mortal.
On the other side of the Atlantic, the average con-
ductor prides himself on his gruffness and individu-
ality.
Vienna, one of the most interesting and enter-
prising cities in Europe, is situated in a fertile
plain on the southernmost branch of the Danube.
The great bulk of the population consists of Ger-
man Roman Catholics ; but all nationalities and
denominations are represented. Vienna is divided
into the old city, which is nearly encircled, and
about three miles in circumference, and the new
city, consisting of thirty-four suburbs. The old
Vienna. 97
city was, up to 1858, surrounded by a deep fosse,
and high walls with projecting bastions, which, in
later times, served as terrace walks ; but these forti-
fications have, in a great measure, long since been
filled up or leveled, thus enlarging the glacis, a
broad and pleasant esplanade, by which they were
encircled, and separated from the suburbs. Of the
numerous gates which formerly led from the old
city to the suburbs, the Burgthor (castle or palace
gate) is justly celebrated.
In the arrangement of its streets, Vienna has
been compared to a spider's web, the principal
thoroughfares radiating from a central point near
the Cathedral of St. Stephen, to the bastions
across the glacis, and through the suburbs to the
outer lines, and being intersected by numerous
minor streets and alleys. Contrary to the general
rule in modern cities, the old part of the town is
the more fashionable of the two. It has narrow
streets, mostly lined with lofty houses, but also
some splendid squares, and contains the oldest
churches and the palaces of the emperor and the
highest nobility.
The Hofplatz (court square) has a colossal
statue of the Virgin, and two fountains ; the Joseph-
platz, an equestrian statue of the Emperor Joseph
I. The square called Freiung contains a beautiful
fountain with five bronze figures representing Aus-
tria and her four principal rivers. The Graben,
7
98 Around the World.
near the centre of the city, has, among other orna-
ments, a beautiful column in honor of the Trinity.
The Graben and the Kohlmarkt, a street leading
from it to the imperial palace, contains the finest
shops. The Imperial Library, a handsome build-
ing on the Josephplatz, contains upward of 350,000
volumes, and about 300,000 engravings, the largest
and finest collection of the kind in the world. It
also contains numerous and valuable curiosities.
The most conspicuous and most interesting
church in Vienna is the Cathedral of St. Stephen,
considered by many to be the finest specimen of
Gothic architecture on the globe. It was begun
five centuries ago ; but the two turrets flanking the
west portal, called the Giant gate, are the remains
of a church built two hundred years earlier. The
length of the cathedral is 345 feet, its breadth 230
feet. Its steeple is a masterpiece of architecture,
and is 444 feet high. The largest bell, cast from
hundreds of cannon taken from the besieging
Turks in 1683, weighs 380 hundred weight. The
view from the steeple extends over the Danube,
and many old battle-fields, also a number of pal-
aces, gardens and bathing establishments.
Vienna has extensive manufactories. I visited
several of them, including the extensive fan fac-
tory carried on by Mr. Grunbaum, brother of our
Modesto merchant, B. Grunbaum. Here they em-
ployed 300 operatives, men and women, who were
Life in Vienna. 99
busily engaged in manufacturing fancy fans, which
are exported to all parts of the world. I am much
indebted to Mr. Grunbaum for his kindness in
piloting me through the bustling city, and pointing
out many of the principal points of interest, among
others the Grand Opera House, erected in place of
the one burned down seven years ago. The ma-
jority of my readers will remember when the news
of this terrible catastrophe was telegraphed to all
parts of the world, and of the sad fate of the
thousands of people who were buried in its ashes.
We next visited the museum. This contains
seven apartments, three of which are filled with
ancient armor. The other departments embrace
old paintings, curiosities of nature and art, carv-
ings, trinkets, remarkable dresses, and many ob-
jects of historical interest. Had I not so lately
visited the Louvre, in Paris, I should have been
all the more struck with admiration in viewing this
wonderful collection of curiosities, relics and mag-
nificent works of art.
The dancing, ball and concert rooms of Vienna,
as well as other places of amusement, are very
numerous and well attended, the inhabitants being
distinguished by a cheerful and jovial disposition
above those of all other capitals of Europe. The
coffee houses are spacious, and generally thronged.
The great promenades are the Glacis, the Volks-
garten (people's garden), the Augarten, Briget-
100 Around the World.
tenau, and especially the Prater, a natural park on
a series of low islands formed by the arms of the
Danube. The Prater, especially on fete days,
with its coffee houses, panorama, circus, swings,
jugglers, rustic kitchens, long rows of tables and
benches, trains of carriages, and its laughing,
drinking and dancing multitudes in all the various
national costumes of the Austrian Empire, is the
most characteristic part of the capital. There are
also fashionable cafes that are frequented by the
aristocracy and nobility, who never mix with the
common people. Among other features of inter-
est that I had pointed out to me were the Palace
of Justice and the House of Parliament.
During my brief stay in Vienna I made the
Wienberger Hotel my headquarters, where I was
charged five guldens, or two dollars, per day.
The narrow streets are thronged with people all
day long. I frequently saw a woman and a dog
side by side pulling a loaded wagon together. The
dog would be in regular harness, and the woman
would wear a shoulder strap. This was a common
sight, even in the most fashionable streets, and
never seemed to attract attention except from a
stranger like myself. In no other city did I see a
wider contrast between the rich and the poor. The
former occupy costly palaces surrounded by all
that luxury and wealth can give, while the latter
are clothed in rags, and perform all kinds of menial
Trip on the Danube. 101
labor. The open market presents a scene of much
interest. Here hundreds of women are daily en-
gaged in buying and selling all kinds of produce.
These women are certainly industrious, but, un-
like the Parisians, can make no pretensions to
feminine beauty.
In company with some other tourists, I had a
pleasant ride on the Danube, and we had a fine
opportunity for viewing the city, which borders the
stream for several miles.
102 Around the World.
CHAPTER IV.
GERMANY AND DENMARK.
I now bade farewell to the Austrian capital, and
set out for Berlin, a distance of ninety German, or
about 350 English, miles. The route I traversed
took me through Bohemia and Saxony. Bohemia
is a kingdom of the Austrian Empire, and has a
population of between five and six millions. We
traveled through a level and fertile valley, where
the rank vegetation and the thrifty growth of its
diversified crops bore evidence to the richness of
the soil. As usual, the women were everywhere
industriously laboring in the fields, where they
could be seen with some implement in hand, some
using the scythe, the sickle or the pruning knife,
while others were engaged in hauling hay or
plowing. It was no longer a matter of surprise
to see women and men working together doing
the work that in America is supposed to belong
to the men exclusively. I understand, however,
that in these countries this custom is a matter of
necessity.
The mineral springs of Bohemia are justly fa-
mous. The industries of the kingdom are highly
Dresden. 103
developed in various directions. Most important
of all is the manufacture of woolen goods, princi-
pally carried on at Reichenburg and in the neigh-
borhood of that city. The cotton manufacture is
also extensively prosecuted in the same district,
and at Rumburg and other places linen stuffs are
largely produced. Bohemian glass has been cele-
brated for centuries, and is still exported to all
parts of Europe. The climate is healthful, but
varies considerably in different districts.
As many of the kingdoms of Europe are smaller
than an ordinary county in California, it takes very
little time to travel from one to the other; conse-
quently I was soon in Saxony. This is the third
constituent of Germany in point of population,
and the fifth in point of area. Saxony is one of
the most fertile parts of Germany. In regard to
the productive occupation of its soil, it stands
among the most advanced nations in the world. It
also claims to be one of the most highly educated
countries in Europe. Its schools and universities
were founded among the earliest in Germany, and
education is compulsory.
Dresden, the capital, is situated in a beautiful
and richly cultivated valley on both sides of the
Elbe. It is approached on almost every side by
avenues of trees, and the distance is bounded by
gentle eminences covered with plantations and
vineyards. On account of its delightful situation
5
a
3
w
(104)
Berlin. 105
and the many objects of interest it contains, it is
often called the " German Florence." Dresden
owes a large part of its fame to its extensive artis-
tic, literary and scientific collections. Among the
chief branches of industry are manufactures in gold
and silver, straw plait, scientific and musical instru-
ments, artificial flowers and painter's canvas.
There are several large breweries, a considerable
corn trade is carried on, and there is an extensive
traffic in books and objects of art.
At Dresden I met a great many tourists from
America, also quite a number of Americans who
reside here. It was a pleasure and a relief to be
able to converse in my own familiar tongue. For
weeks I had been laboring with a foreign language,
and had been obliged to depend on an interpreter.
As one was not always at hand, and as they gen-
erally understood just about enough English to
enable them to fleece a traveler, I labored under
many disadvantages.
My next stopping place was Berlin, the capital
of Prussia, and since 1871 the metropolis of the
German Empire. It is situated on both sides of
the River Spree, and is built on what was
originally in part a sandy, and in part a marshy,
district. By its canals it has direct communication
with the Oder River. This river, with its canals
and branches, is crossed by about fifty bridges,
very few of which have any claim to architectural
106 Around the World.
beauty. Among these latter may be mentioned
the Schlossbriicke, which was built in the years 1822,
.1823 and 1824. It has eight colossal figures of
white marble, representing the different stages of a
warrior's career. These statues are for the most
part of high artistic merit ; they stand on granite
pedestals. The Kurfii.rstenbrii.cke is another bridge
which merits notice on account of the equestrian
bronze statue of the Great Elector, by which it is
adorned.
Berlin covers an area of about twenty-five Eng-
lish square miles, and now takes its place as the
third greatest city of Europe, surpassed only by
London and Paris. In secular buildings, Berlin is
very rich. It differs, however, from all other capi-
tals, in this respect : that, with the exception of
the castle, a large building enclosing two courts
and containing more than 600 rooms, and which
dates its origin back to the sixteenth century, all
of its public buildings are comparatively modern,
dating, in their present form, from the eighteenth
and nineteenth centuries. The public buildings
and monuments which render it famous, date, al-
most without exception, from 1814, the close of the
great conflict with Napoleon I. Its churches are
the structures which lay claim to the highest
antiquity, four of them dating from the thirteenth
and fourteenth centuries. But in respect to
churches, both in their number and beauty, Berlin
The Siegessaule.
(107)
108 Around the World.
is, relatively speaking, probably the poorest of the
capitals of Christendom.
Up to a very recent date, Berlin was a walled
city. Those of its nineteen gates which still
remain have only an historical or architectural
interest. The principal of these is the Branden-
burg gate, which is 201 feet broad and nearly sixty-
five feet in height. It is supported by twelve
Doric columns, each forty-four feet high, and sur-
mounted by a Car of Victory, which, taken by
Napoleon I. to Paris in 1807, was brought back by
the Prussians in 18 14. The streets, about 520 in
number, are, with the exception of the districts in
the most ancient part of the city, long, straight and
wide, and lined with high houses; for the old typi-
cal Berlin house, with its ground and first floor, is
fast disappearing.
Among the most imposing structures are the
Admiralty, the upper house of the Prussian
Legislature, the Imperial Parliament, the royal
palaces, the Jewish synagogue, the Opera and the
Royal Museums. The public buildings are superior
to those in most cities of Europe. Berlin possesses
eight museums, in addition to the Royal Museum
and the National Gallery. The Royal Museums
are the old and the new museums. The former is
the most imposing building in Berlin. The new
museum is connected with the old by a covered
corridor. In its interior arrangements and decora-
Piiblic Monuments. 109
tions, it is undoubtedly the most splendid structure
in the city. The National Gallery is an elegant
building, situated between the new museum and
the Spree, and is intended to receive the collection
of modern paintings, now exhibited provisionally
in the apartment of the Academy.
The public monuments are the equestrian statues
of the Great Elector on the Large Briicke ; the
celebrated statue of Frederick the Great, probably
the grandest monument in Europe, opposite the
emperor's palace, Unter den Linden; and the
statue of Frederick William III. in the Lust Garten.
On the Kreuzberg, the highest spot in the neigh-
borhood of Berlin, a Gothic monument in bronze
was erected by Frederick William III. to commem-
orate the victories of 1813 and 18 15, and in the
Konigsplatz the present Emperor has erected a
Column of Victory in honor of the triumphs of
1864, 1866 and 1870. This monument rises to the
height of 197 feet, the gilded figure of Victory
on top being forty feet high.
Next to Leipsic, Berlin is the largest publishing
centre in Germany. It is not only a centre of
intelligence, but is also an important centre of man-
ufactures and trade. ■ Its trade and manufactures
seem to be at present in a transitory state ; old
branches are dying, and new ones springing into
existence.
I was much pleased with my sojourn in Ger-
Emperor Wilhelm.
(110)
The Emperor William. Ill
many. I found the people, as a rule, polite and
hospitable. They appeared to be much interested
in American travelers. As a rule, there seemed to
be less extortion practiced in Germany than in any
other country I visited. The tramway fare was a
trifling sum ; and the fee to porters, guides and
hackmen, and the railway fare throughout the
whole German empire, the most reasonable on the
Continent. Amono- the leading hotels are the
Auburn and Chalsber Houses, where the traveler
can have his meals served either on the European
or American plan. One can fare well for eight
marks, or about $1.75, per day.
I left Berlin, September 11, for Hamburg. My
route lay over a level country, the soil of which
seemed to be of a swampy and marshy character.
The principal resources of this section seemed to
be hay-making, turf-digging and turf-drying. The
turf is largely used for fuel, on account of the
scarcity of timber in this part of Germany. Of
course, the women had a hand in both industries,
and many of them could be seen busily engaged in
piling turf or mowing hay.
At Wiirtemberg, half way between Berlin and
Hamburg, I had the pleasure of seeing the vener-
able Emperor William, the first crowned head I
had, up to this time, had the pleasure of seeing
while in Europe, but far from being the last.
Thousands of people were awaiting the arrival of
112 Around tJie World.
the Emperor. The militia was out in full force
ready to salute him. The gorgeous decoration of
the station, the drilling, the thunder of artillery, the
holiday attire of the people, all helped to make this
one of the most brilliant and strikine incidents of
my journey through Prussia.
A few hours later I found myself in the city of
Hamburg, one of the most remarkable cities of
Germany, and, in fact, of Europe, ranking, as it
does, as the first of all the seats of commerce on
the Continent. It is situated on the ri^ht bank of
the northern branch of the River Elbe, about
ninety-three miles from the mouth of that river,
just where it is joined by the Alster and the Bille.
The oldest portion of the city is that which lies
to the east of the Alster ; to the west lies the new
town. The old town lies low, and is traversed by a
great number of narrow canals, or "fleets," which
add considerably to the picturesqueness of the
meaner quarters, and serve as convenient channels
for the transportation of goods. They generally
form what may be called the back streets, and they
are bordered by warehouses, cellars and the lower
classes of dwelling houses. As they are subject to
the ebb and flow of the Elbe, at certain times they
run quite dry, and afford a field of operation for a
certain class who wander the oozy channel to pick
up any articles of value. At other times they are
filled from fifteen to twenty feet above their ordi-
Hai7iburg. 113
nary level. As soon as the telegram at Cuxhaven
announces hisfh tide, three shots are fired from the
stintfung, at the harbor, to warn the inhabitants
of the " fleets ;" and, if the progress of the tide up
the river gives indication of danger, three other
shots are fired to add emphasis to the warning.
Then the dwellers on the lower levels make a rapid
escape with their property. At the time of the
equinoxes the inundation may be repeated for sev-
eral days in succession ; but, when all is over, the
people return like rats to their oozy and dripping
abodes. In fine contrast to the dull and dismal
fleets, is the bright and handsome appearance of the
Inner Alsten, which is enclosed on three sides by
handsome rows of buildings.
In the extent of its commerce, Hamburg ranks
among European ports immediately after London,
Liverpool and Glasgow. The river and harbor
are continually crowded with vessels of all descrip-
tions, from the smallest river craft to the largest
ocean steamer.
Of the many churches in Hamburg, St. Peters,
St. Michaels, St. Nicholas and the Dutch Reformed
Church are among the largest, and probably the
most worthy of note. The Church of St. Nicho-
las is remarkable, more especially for its tower,
which rises to a height of 473 feet. Both interior
and exterior are elaborately adorned with sculp-
tures. St. Michaels has a tower which almost
8
114 Around the World.
rivals that of St. Nicholas, as it rises to a height of
428 feet. It surpasses all the other churches of
Hamburg, being 229 feet long and 179 feet broad,
and produces a fine effect by the colossal propor-
tions of its four principal pillars. Among other
buildings of interest are the Hamburg Bank, the
Grand Opera House and the Museum. The prin-
cipal hotels are the Hamburger Hoff and Hotel
Europe. Here accommodations can be had in
thorough European style, and one can live
luxuriously for the moderate amount of eight
marks per day.
An extended stroll over the city left the impres-
sion upon my mind that it did not deserve much of
a reputation for either cleanliness or godliness. I
was told that vice and wickedness prevail in Ham-
burg to a greater extent than in any other city of
the same size in Europe. A noticeable feature of
Hamburg is the cheap prices which seem to prevail
in every branch of business. A suit of clothes
that would cost fifty dollars in San Francisco,
could be bought for twenty here.
After visiting Bremen, an important seaport
within a short distance of Hamburg, I started for
Copenhagen, traveling by the way of Kiel, a city
with a population of about 50,000. It is pictur-
esquely situated at the southern end of Kielov
Fohrde, about sixty-six miles northeast of Ham-
burg by rail. Kiel is the most important naval
The Baltic — Denmark. 115
harbor of Germany, and the station of the German
Baltic fleet, and the port and its approaches are
very strongly fortified. The safety and excellence
of Kiel harbor, whose only drawback is that it is
frozen in winter, have made the town one of the
principal ports of the Baltic. Here I embarked
for Korsor, in Denmark, a distance of eighteen
German, or seventy-two English, miles.
Since landing in the Old World, I had been con-
stantly in motion, endeavoring to see all that was
worth seeing, and had traveled by all the different
modes of transit the various countries afforded.
As we steamed out of the harbor of Kiel I watched
the fast-receding German shore with something
akin to regret ; for I had spent several very pleas-
ant weeks among the German people. The
knowledge I had acquired of their language I
found afterward to be of great benefit to me when
traveling in the German settlements in Asia.
After a few hours' sailing over the boisterous
Baltic, we anchored at Korsor, and I was soon
treading on Danish soil. The first thing was to go
through the regular custom-house formality of
having my baggage searched by its officers, to see
if it might by any possibility contain dynamite, or
some article on which a duty might be levied. Be-
fore starting out in quest of new scenes I was
obliged to hunt up a money broker, and provide
myself with the coin of the country For each
116 Arotind the World.
English pound, I obtained eighteen cronor, or
crowns, which was equivalent to five dollars in
United States gold coin. This would go twice as
far here as the same amount in the United States.
The coasts of Denmark are generally low and
sandy, and the whole western shore of Jutland is a
succession of sand ridges and shallow lagoons, very
dangerous to shipping. On the eastern side the
coast is not so inhospitable. On the contrary,
there are several excellent harbors, especially on
the islands. There is little variety in the surface
of Denmark, as it is uniformly low ; and the high-
est point in the whole country, Himmelbjerget, in
Jutland, is only 550 feet above the level of the sea.
It is not as low, however, as Holland is. The
country is pleasantly diversified, and rises a little at
the coast, even though it remains flat inland.
The landscape of the islands and the south-
eastern part of Jutland is rich in beech woods,
corn fields and meadows, and even the minute
islets are green and fertile. In the western and
northern districts of Jutland this gives place to a
wide expanse of moorland, covered with heather,
and ending at the sea in low, whitish cliffs. There
is a melancholy charm even about these monoto-
nous tracts, and it can not be said that Denmark is
wanting in natural beauty. It is obvious that in
such a country there can exist no rivers ; the
longest of the Danish streams is little more than
a brook. Nor are there any large lakes.
Copenhagen. 117
The people are honest, economical and indus-
trious ; every one works. The majority of them
are rosy-cheeked, healthy and seemingly happy in
their slow-going way. They seem devoid of any
ambition to acquire wealth. Their motto seems to
be to do good, to feel good, and to enjoy life as it
comes from day to day. Denmark, small as she is,
is the most independent little country in Northern
Europe. It is pre-eminently a corn land, all kinds
of grain are grown, and the potato is largely culti-
vated. The produce of grass is not very large, the
fertility of the soil tempting the farmers to use it
all for grain. The exports are largely in excess of
the imports.
From Korsor to Copenhagen is a distance of
eighteen Danish miles, or fifty-six English miles.
The road lies over a densely populated agri-
cultural district. Men, women and children work
in the fields together. The most important
towns we passed on this route were Slagesingele,
Soro and Roskedal. I arrived at the Danish
capital on the 15th of September. Copenhagen
is situated at the southern extremity of the
sound, which is at that part about twenty miles
wide. The main portion of the city is built on
low-lying ground on the east coast of the island of
Zealan.l, between the sea and a series of fresh-
water lakes. It is becoming more and more the
commercial centre of Denmark, and its local indus-
118 A round the World.
tries and its foreign trade are both making rapid
advances. The harbor is large and commodious,
and, by the aid of canals, large vessels can enter
almost to the centre of the city. The principal
streets were thronged with people of every grade
and rank.
At the time I was in Copenhagen the Czar of
Russia was visiting his father-in-law, the King of
Denmark, the public buildings were all decorated,
and the people generally seemed to have donned
their holiday attire. I had a glimpse of the car-
riage and body guard of one of the greatest rulers
in the world. A few days later, while in Chris-
tiania, I saw the Prince of Wales and the Crown
Prince of Norway. For all they were only ordi-
nary mortals, I was glad I had had an opportunity
of seeing them. Strange how one human being
sometimes enjoys even seeing the footprints of
another. The King of Denmark is blest with a
royal son, the King of Greece, and with two royal
sons-in-law, the Czar of Russia and the Prince
of Wales. I hope on my next tour to see this
royalty converted into a republic. It would infuse
new life into the people to be able to breathe the
air of freedom.
Among the most interesting public buildings are
the Royal Palace of Christiansborg. This palace
contains the council chamber and the apartments
in which both houses of Parliament hold their
Public Buildings. 119
sittings. The Palace of Rosenberg is an irregular
building in Gothic style, with a high, pointed roof,
and flanked by four towers of unequal dimensions.
The Palace of Charlottenborg is a huge, desolate-
looking structure, built in 1672. Here the annual
exhibition of painting and sculpture is held. The
Thorwaldsen Museum is two stories in height, and
230 feet long, and 125 feet broad. In the centre is
an open court containing the artist's tomb. The
exterior walls are decorated with groups of figures
illustrative of events connected with the formation
of the museum. The front hall, corridors and
apartments are painted in the Pompeian style, with
brilliant colors and with crreat artistic skill.
The principal theatre is the Royal, on Kongens
Nytory, a beautiful edifice of modern erection.
This I visited, and saw some of the ablest actors
and the most brilliant assemblage of people since
leaving Paris. The play was grand, and the
people dressed in the most costly attire. The
Royal Family might properly be considered the
feature of the evening. I also visited the Tivoli
Gardens, which are situated immediately beyond
the western gate, and form the favorite place of
resort in the summer evenings. The market
square was crowded with people, and produce of
every kind was exhibited. Butter and cheese occu-
pied a prominent place, and they are among the
principal exports.
120 Around the World.
CHAPTER V.
SWEDEN, THE BALTIC AND RUSSIA.
September 19 I embarked on a small coast
steamer for Malmo, a seaport town in Southern
Sweden. It is situated on the eastern shore of the
sound, opposite Copenhagen, from which it is six-
teen miles distant. I paid my fare of two cronor,
and, after a couple of hours' pleasant sailing, found
myself at my destination. Here again I was in a
new country, and my baggage had to be inspected
by custom-house officers. This was done so fre-
quently while traveling in Scandinavia that I began
to look upon it in the light of a nuisance, and I re-
solved, that, if I ever visited the country again, I
would confine my luggage to a valise, and thus save
myself much annoyance. However, I was subject
to less imposition and extortion in Northern Eu-
rope than in the countries south of the Alps and
in the Orient, where there are whole armies of
loafers and hangers-on whose sole object in life is
to fleece the traveler.
Malmo is inferior only to Stockholm and Goth-
enburg in importance, and was formerly the most
important town on the sound. It is built on
Sweden. 121
a level plain, and is backed by an agricultural
country. One has a fine view of the water, which
is dotted with vessels. From Malmo to Stockholm
is about 350 English, or fifty Swedish, miles. The
distance to Gothenburg is about the same.
As we advance eastward the land is rolling and
sometimes rocky, and large strips of country are
timbered with stunted birch, fir and pine trees.
Although to me the soil appeared unfit for cultiva-
tion, it was densely settled and fairly improved.
The red houses and red barns add much to the
picturesqueness of the rocky hills. The farms and
fields are enclosed by stone fences. The grain is
cut with a sickle, and generally harvested by
women. Often in the busy harvest season, the
leading farmers select a dozen women, who, with
sickle in hand, cut the grain and tie it in bundles.
A given number of bundles is considered a day's
work. Many of these peasant women occupy little
homes on the outskirts of the farmer's domain, for
which they pay a yearly rent. The wages they re-
ceive for a day's work in the harvest field is fifty
orer, which is equivalent to thirteen cents. The
laboring classes are meagrely compensated for their
work. The usual wao-es for a man who is em-
ployed by the year is from thirty to forty dollars,
and a woman generally receives about half that
amount.
Gothenburg, the second city and the chief com-
122 Around the World.
mercial town of Sweden, is situated in a low valley
surrounded by bare hills, on the south bank of the
Gotha River. It is well and regularly built, mostly
of stone or brick, with wide and well paved streets,
and in its general appearance much resembles an
English town.
From Gothenburg to Stockholm by way of the
canal is an interesting journey. This canal con-
nects with Lake Wetter, a large sheet of water.
The canal and lake are girted with hills, princi-
pally covered with tamarack and pine. Stockholm
is situated at the junction of Lake Maelar with an
arm of the Baltic called Skaengard. The city is
built chiefly upon a number of islands. It is hand-
somely designed, and built with several squares
and public walks, ornamented with trees and
statues. The city has been likened to Venice.
There are several points of view which recall the
Southern City of the Sea ; but the resemblance is
imperfect. The approaches by water are uncom-
monly beautiful, both on the lake side and from the
Baltic, commanding views probably unsurpassed
of their kind.
The most striking object from every point, is the
great rectangular palace, an immense structure,
standing upon an eminence on the central island.
Its vast and massive walls rise far above the neigh-
boring buildings. There are few cities in Europe
whose general aspect is more attractive than that
Stockholm.
123
of Stockholm. Vast ranges of buildings are re-
lieved and over-shadowed in the Stad by the
majestic palace and church towers rising from their
midst. Nowhere has nature disposed of her undu-
lations of soil and curves of water boundary with
The Royal Palace, Stockholm.
more endless variety. In the compass of a single
evening one may pass through sombre forest and
smooth pasture slopes, climb tall granite cliffs over-
hanging glassy lake and bay, and glide through
the busy seaport filled with sails and moving
industry, the granite quays lined and adorned
124 Around the World.
with architectural beauty, with statues and monu-
ments of art.
The various subdivisions of the city, intersected
by the waters of the lake, are chiefly islands con-
nected by bridges, some of which are of superb
granite masonry. Picturesque ferry boats, pro-
pelled by women in their showy provincial cos-
tumes, add greatly to the scene in summer. In
winter the waters are compact plains of snow-clad
ice, covered with all the moving activity of thor-
oughfares. One of the most interesting objects is
the Riddarholm Church, which contains the tombs
and trophies of many historic personages. The
harbor is one of the finest in the world, and the
largest-sized ships may penetrate into the very
heart of the city.
There are several fine theatres and other places
of amusement. A strong military garrison of life
guards is always quartered in the barracks. A
naval squadron, chiefly of gunboats, is stationed
at an island opposite the palace. The city, cov-
ered by a strong fortress, is perhaps impregnable
by water. Stockholm is the chief seat of Swedish
manufactures, which are here extensive. Trans-
lated into English, Stockholm would be Log
Island. Tradition has it that it derived its name
from a stock, or log, which was sent adrift on the
stream. The city was to be built wherever the log
landed.
Russia. 125
On leaving Stockholm, I crossed the Baltic, and
paid a hasty visit to Russia. We had a stormy
sea voyage of 375 miles. St. Petersburg, the cap-
ital of the Russian Empire, is situated in a thinly
peopled region at the head of the Gulf of Finland,
and at the mouth of the River Neva. The bulk of
the city is on the left bank of the river, and includes
the best and the busiest streets, the richest shops,
the great bazars and markets, the palaces, cathe-
drals and theatres, as well as railway stations,
except that of the Finland Railway. Among the
principal objects of interest are the memorial to
St. Peter and the Cathedral of St. Isaac. This
city has a population of nearly 1,000,000 people.
I had planned to go from St. Petersburg to Mos-
cow, and thence to Constantinople ; but the near
approach of winter induced me to give up this
plan. So, after a brief but interesting stay in the
brilliant Russian capital, I recrossed the Baltic to
Stockholm.
126 Around the World.
CHAPTER VI.
NORWAY.
On arriving at Stockholm, I took the cars for
Christiania. On this journey I visited the Trol-
hatta Fall, one of the grandest sights in Sweden.
At Frederickstad I had my first glimpse of Nor-
way. I was now fast entering one of the most
picturesque countries of the earth. The first sight
of interest we passed in this romantic region was
the celebrated Sarf-foss, on the River Glommen.
This remarkable fall, or foss, is surrounded by
some of the most picturesque mountain scenery in
Norway. In fact, the principal features of Nor-
wegian scenery are fjeldes, fosses and fiords, or, as
we would term them, mountains, falls and rivers.
On account of the mountainous character of tne
country, the rivers are navigable only for short dis-
tances, and even then, only exceptionally by large
vessels. It is only in those comparatively frequent
cases where the rivers expand into lakes, that they
can, strictly speaking, be navigated by ships. On
the other hand, the waterfalls in Norway are
exceedingly numerous, and many of them remark-
able for their height, body of wafer, and great
beauty.
Norway. 127
The mountains are covered with some of the
finest pine timber in the world. Logs are floated
down on the rivers to the saw-mills, which are
everywhere in operation. The lumber is exported
to all parts of Europe. This trade and the famous
iron mines and extensive fisheries form the most
important industries of Norway. Very little grain
is raised here, and fully one-fourth of the cereals
consumed must be imported.
Norway has no extensive railway system, the
railways having a total length of only 973 miles.
At Frederickstad, an important lumber port, I
took the train for Christiania, traveling by way of
the famous Kijolberg bridge, where a battle was
fought in the stormy days of 1S14, between Nor-
way and Sweden. We traveled through an ele-
vated and thickly timbered region, where we had
a fine view of the long, open bay, called the Chris-
tiania fiord. This was one of the most interesting
railway rides I had enjoyed in Europe.
Christiania is beautifully situated at the head of
the fiord of the same name, an arm of the Skager
Rack. The streets are broad, and the houses, ex-
cept in the suburbs, are built chiefly of brick and
stone. It is the seat of the Crown Prince and of
the Storthing, or Parliament, of the Hoieste-ret, or
final court of appeal, and of the bishop of the
Stift. It has a population of about 125,000.
I stopped at the Victoria Hotel, where I paid
128 Around the World.
eight cronor, or about $2.25, per day. The accom-
modations were fine, and Quests are served in
Scandinavian or American style. Among the pub-
lic buildings may be mentioned the royal palace ; the
cathedral, a brick edifice in the shape of a Greek
cross ; the museums and the National Gallery, all
fairly good buildings for a small city. The Parlia-
ment or Storthing building is substantial, but not
grand. The palace of the Crown Prince is a
spacious wooden structure, but is not at all impos-
ing. After visiting the Louvre in Paris, and Buck-
ingham Palace in London, these seemed very
small affairs. The Fish Bazar is quite an enter-
prise. Here live fish are kept all the year round,
and people get their fish here instead of buying
them at the ordinary fish markets. The fortress
of Agershuus defends the fiord and the greater
part of the town. It contains the regalia and
national records, and its ramparts afford an agree-
able promenade It is remarkable more for its
strength and antiquity than for its architectural
finish.
In the northern portion of the city I visited
Agers Elv, a swiftly flowing stream, the water
power of which is utilized by the various factories.
The operatives in these factories are principally
girls. My visit to St. John's height was the most
important event to me that occurred during my
visit to the city. From this lofty eminence I had
(129)
130 Around the World.
a fine view, not only of the entire city, but of the
shipping in the harbor. It happened while I was
viewing the city from this height that there was a
large crowd of people waiting for the arrival of the
Prince of Wales, who was visiting Christiania. At
two o'clock the carriages containing the royal per-
sonages appeared in sight, followed by a large con-
course of people, all at rayed in holiday attire.
The tourist generally takes Christiania for a
starting point when he decides to venture into
Northern Norway to see some of the wildest
scenery under the sun. Forty miles north of
Christiania is a large body of water called Mjosen,
where small steamers are busily plying in every
direction all summer long. The general character
of the whole country is extremely rugged, particu-
larly in the North. The valleys are short and
abrupt. Precipices, cascades and torrents are met
with in every direction, and grand and picturesque
scenery abounds.
Among" the most striking natural curiosities is
the mountain of Kilhorn, a remarkable pyramidal
peak, terminating with a long, sharp, spire-like
summit, and having a large perforation about
three- fourths of the way up its side. Some of the
mountain passes are extremely picturesque. The
Voringfoss and Rukanfoss are cataracts, each nine
hundred feet in perpendicular descent, and several
of the rivers have falls of less height. The rivers
The Fiords. 131
and lakes are abundantly stocked with many
varieties of excellent fish, among which are trout
and salmon. Game of all kinds is very plentiful.
Norway is a favorite resort for the European no-
bility, who, satiated with pleasure and sight-seeing,
come here in the summer to hunt and fish.
The numerous, and in many cases very extensive
fiords give to the different parts of the coast of
Norway a remarkably varied character. For long
distances the mainland does not come in contact
with the sea. Among the most noteworthy is
Hardanger Fiord, which pierces the country for
eighty miles in a northeasterly direction. The
climate is less severe than might be expected from
the high latitude and the elevation of surface, being
considerably tempered by the sea and warm south-
west wintls. Perpetual snow is found only in ele-
vated localities. It is a wonderful si^ht to see the
sun rise in its majestic beauty among the glaciers.
The broad mountains running up into sharp peaks,
covered with clear coats of crystallized ice, glitter in
the sunshine, and present a grandly magnificent
si^ht.
I visited Drammen, a bustling city of about
twenty thousand inhabitants, situated at the head
of Drammen Fiord, thirty miles west of Chris-
tiania. It has quite a number of industrial estab-
lishments, and an active trade in wood, pitch and
iron, is carried on. My next stopping place was
132 Around the World.
Skien, situated at the extreme western end of the
railroad, and 130 English miles from Christiania.
The railroad follows the line of the sea-shore, pass-
ing through numerous tunnels, climbing hills, and
crossing pretty little valleys dotted with small
farms. We were continually sighting streams and
waterfalls. .
On this route we passed Holmestrand, Sane
Fiord and Kongsberg, situated on alvs, or rivers,
and in close proximity to the coast. Here are
situated the rich and famous silver mines of Nor-
way. These mines, as well as the railroads, are
owned and controlled by the government. From
Skien small steamers travel by way of a canal to
an inland lake called the Inland North Sea. This
takes the tourist as far north as Ule-foss, in
Tellemarken. Many tourists avail themselves of
the opportunity to visit this attractive body of
water, and view the grand and striking scenery
among the lofty mountains of Central Norway.
It is exceedingly interesting to visit the country
during the summer season, and inspect the satras.
These are situated four or five English miles from
the main farms. Here they keep the cattle tem-
porarily during the harvest season, and have their
dairies, where they make butter and cheese. While
the herders are watching their flocks in the grassy
meadows and on the wooded hills, they are con-
stantly tooting their horns, partly for amusement
Satra Life. 133
and partly in accordance with an old custom, as it
was formerly supposed that the noise of the horn
was useful in keeping bears, wolves and other wild
animals away from their herds.
In the temporary cabins you will hear the maids
singing as they churn or spin. You will find
women in the meadows raking hay or on the hill-
sides, sickle in hand, cutting foliage to be cured
and stored for food for the stock during the long,
cold winter. The boys are engaged in fishing, and
the smaller children in picking berries. The men
are busy mowing, or felling timber, which is hauled,
tandem fashion, by the chubby ponies to the neigh-
boring fiords. Evening life in these cabins pre-
sents a lively scene. The time is spent in playing
on the flute and violin and in dancing; when wea-
ried of that, in spinning yarns and telling ghost
stories. Some are engaged in making boasts as to
who is the strongest man, who owns the fastest
horse, the sharpest knife, or has the best-looking girl.
This is a fair description of satra life in Norway ;
and is what I have seen with my own eyes, and
heard with my own ears.
On returning to Skien, which is the terminus of
the railroad, I embarked on a small coast steamer
for Kragero, only about four hours' ride on the
Fiord. We kept close to the shore, and had a fine
view of the peculiar formation of the coast. The
harbor of Kragero I found to be surrounded by
134 Around the World.
fjelds and islands. This city impresses one as
being odd, ugly and old ; the streets are crooked
and narrow, and it looks as if it might have been
pretty well shaken up at some time by an earth-
quake. It has a background of rugged and rocky
hills. The city has, however, several wealthy
merchants and owners of ships, and does a thrifty
business in exporting lumber t > foreign countries.
On leaving Kragero, I journeyed into the interior.
The only mode of travel now was by stage. There
is a compulsory law or rule in Norway requiring a
stage to be furnished any traveler who will pay for
the use of it, the price generally charged being one
crono and fifty orer. or forty cents, for every ten
miles, which is generally about the distance be-
tween stations. The tax-payers all along the line
of the mail road have to furnish these stages, each
as their turn comes around. The traveler usually
gives notice of his coming, by mail, the day before-
hand. The stage outfit consists of a pony horse
hitched to a cariole or sleigh, according to the sea-
son of the year.
On this occasion 1 occupied a cariole, a narrow
two-wheeled vehicle used in Norway, just wide
enough to hold one person. I enjoyed the ride
more on account of its novelty than for its com-
fort. My baggage was placed at my feet ; the
driver stood upright behind me on a step, holding
the lines, with which he guided the spirited horse,
Gj crest ad. 135
over my head ; and we rattled along at a lively
gait on a narrow road, which was but a few inches
wider than the vehicle. It is customary at the end
of the journey to tip the driver with fifteen orer
(about four cents). After a varied experience in
traveling and riding, I have learned to enjoy all the
various styles, from comfortably sitting in a palace
car to riding a pack donkey,
Arriving at Gjerestad, I was, after a lapse of
many years, in the place where I was born, and
where the earlier part of my childhood was spent,
surrounded by lofty mountains and inland fiords.
I went sleigh riding and skating - , and eno-aeed in
all the varied amusements that so delight the heart
of boyhood, utterly oblivious of the grand mount-
ains towering above us, or of the picturesque
beauty of the fiord, whose waters glittered in the
summer sunlight or became a vast sheet of ice in
the chilling grasp of winter. Little did I dream,
that, in after years, I should travel thousands of
miles to visit other scenes less grand and inspiring,
or that my home was to be in the far-off, golden
West. The events of my childhood had almost
faded from my memory years before, and old play-
mates and schoolmates were now gray-haired men,
known to me only by their names.
On all sides I was treated to a hearty hand-
shaking and a shower of questions, a few of which I
will repeat. The first query nearly always was :
136 Around the World.
"Well, Mr. Johnson, how came you to get so
rich ? " to which I would reply that I was not aware
of the fact that I was rich, but that what means I
had acquired were due to energy and industry ;
that, if we desire gold, we must go where gold
abounds; that "we must make hay while the sun
shines;" rise early and plow deep to get corn to
sell and corn to keep.
They would next inquire who was going with
me around the world, and I told them that my
only companion was a full purse. They would
often ask me if I did not know that few travelers
ever returned from such a long and venturesome
journey. I answered that this was true, but that
also it would be more remarkable and more to my
credit if I could accomplish it ; that I was fortified
with courage, fortitude and endurance ; and that
I did not care to follow in the beaten tracks where
there was no risk and nothing - to encounter.
I was looked upon with as much curiosity and
interest as if I liad been the long-lost prodigal son.
Although they put no ring on my finger, they
nearly killed me with kindness in the way of over-
feeding me. Here at Gjerestad two of the pleas-
antest weeks I had in Europe were spent; either
tongue or body were in constant motion, and invi-
tations were extended from all sides.
No matter at what hour you make a call, you
must stop and eat a meal, or it is considered no
Customs of the Country. 1 » > 7
visit ; and, hungry or not hungry, you must eat.
After leaving the table it is customary to take the
host and his wife by the hand, and thank them for
the meal. At the dawn of day a cup of coffee and
a sandwich were brought to my bedside. Break-
fast and dinner, the two best meals, are served at
the regular hours. After the latter meal is over, it
is customary to lie down for a couple of hours'
sleep. At two o'clock coffee and sandwiches are
served. This is the custom in nearly all parts of
Norway, particularly in the rural districts. Even
the servants eat five times a day, though often of
the plainest food. Well, they need plenty to eat,
as they are poorly paid for their work in Norway,
as in Switzerland and Denmark.
I was now busily engaged in visiting and sight-
seeing. I went from one farm to another, and was
always given the chubbiest horse and best cariole,
and thus was rapidly whirled along the narrow
roads, which run over rolling hills, through deep
dales, among fjelds and along fiords. As soon as
one attraction was out of sight a grander one ap-
peared in view. In this country a polite custom
prevails ; the people always lift their hats to a
stranger traveling along the highway. The driver,
who stood behind me holding the lines over my
head, often prevented me from lifting mine very
high as I returned the salutation.
Northern Gjerestad is situated at a considerable
138 Around the World.
altitude. The highest mountain in this vicinity is
called Myre-ausen, and is a summer resort for the
aristocracy, who come up into this picturesque
region on account of the grand and romantic
scenery. I stood on the very highest peak of this
eminence, and enjoyed the most magnificent and
the most extended view that I had had from any
peak in Europe. From this point I could get a
glimpse of Tellemarken's highest peaks, and see
the vessels in the ocean west of Jomfruland hasten-
ing on their way over the North Sea.
The scenery was wild and picturesque, on every
side towerinp- mountains and cataracts ; and the
long fiord of Gjerestad, which pierces the country
for many miles, appeared like a glistening streak
of silver. I concluded that this must be the Switz-
erland of the North, so far as grand and romantic
scenery is concerned.
The marriage ceremony is probably the most
curious of the many strange customs that prevail
in this far northern country. The contracting par-
ties must have the bans announced in church three
Sabbaths in succession, preceding the day. This
gives ample time for investigation or objection if
there is any one desirous of preventing the match.
A wedding is always a most brilliant affair in
Norway. The wedding festivities take place at
the house of the groom; and, as all the friends
and relatives at home and abroad are invited,
The Wedding Feast — Schools. 139
there is generally a goodly number of people
assembled.
The wedding is called a "bryliip/'arid feasting and
dancing are kept up for two or three days. The
first day the entire company march to the church,
where the marriage ceremony is performed by the
minister. On returning home every one is in high
glee, and eating, drinking and dancing are indulged
in to their hearts' content. The fattest calves and
beeves are killed, the best beverages served, and
the most skillful musicians employed. I have been
fortunate enough to be one of the guests at a Nor-
wegian wedding, and I assure you that a "bryliip"
is a thing much to be enjoyed, and long to be
remembered. This marriage custom prevails
throughout Scandinavia, and in many other parts
of Europe.
Education is compulsory, and, upon the whole,
well cared for. Every parish has its schoolmaster,
paid partly by small contributions from each pupil,
and partly from the proceeds of a tax on house-
holders. It is rare to find anv one who can not at
least read and write. The towns have superior
schools. Great pains are taken by the clergy with
the religious education of their parishioners. The
religion of the people is Lutheranism, almost with-
out exception. Probably the good seed sown in
childhood is not without its beneficial effect in
after years, as there are fewer criminals in the pris-
140 Around the World.
ons in Norway, in proportion to the population,
than in America and many countries in Europe.
The chief resource of Gjerestad is the lumber
trade. All winter the logs are hauled from the
extensive pine regions to the fiords, and, as soon as
the ice breaks in the spring, the timber is tumbled
into the fiords, and rafted and floated down to the
seaport, and exported by the merchants.
Owing to the mountainous character of the
country, there is comparatively very little level
land ; consequently, grain farms are small, ma-
chinery can not be used to advantage, and the
crops are planted and harvested mainly by hand.
The hay is mowed with a hand scythe by the men,
and raked up by the women.
The crops are planted by both sexes. In the
harvest season the women cut the grain with
sickles, and the men tie it in bundles. It is left a
few days to dry, and then hauled into the spacious
barns. This is clone with two rigs. A species of
rack is placed either on a sleigh or a two-wheeled
rig, and on this the bundles are loaded. The man
drives into the centre of the barn, unhitches the
horse from the wagon, and then goes back to the
field for the other one. While he is away a serv-
ant girl unloads. This is kept up until the last
bundle is removed from the field, and stored in the
barn. In the winter the grain is threshed on the
barn floor with flails by the maid servants. In the
General Prosperity of the People. 141
evening - , when they are resting from their labors,
they are busily engaged in spinning. These small
farmers take great pride in building lofty houses,
which they paint mostly red.
While the people in Norway, as a rule, are not
wealthy, neither does extreme poverty exist. The
people are happy, industrious and honest; they are
simple in their tastes and habits, but kind and hos-
pitable. They are among the best sailors in the
world, large numbers of the population being
engaged from early life in coast fisheries, which are
an excellent school for seamen, the navigation
among the islands, shoals and narrow channels,
being- intricate and dangerous.
Though Norway is situated in a comparatively
remote region, and is the most sparsely populated
country in Europe, she is on the steady road to
prosperity.
I was so busily engaged in visiting and sight-
seeing that the days rolled swiftly by, and, almost
before I was aware of it, the time had come for me
to leave one of the most interesting places on my
whole journey. The last good-bye was said, and I
started once more on my journey around the globe,
with forty thousand miles of it yet to travel before
that journey could be accomplished.
From Gjerestad I traveled westward to Chris-
tiansand, a distance of eighty-five miles. Part of
this journey I traveled by land, and the remainder
142 Around the World.
by water. At Risor, the first seaport, I embarked
on a coast steamer for Christiansand. On the way
we made landing at the following towns : Twedes-
trand, Arendal and Lillesand. The scenery all
along the coast is picturesque in the extreme.
Christiansand is a fortified town on the North
Sea, in Southern Norway, ranking next to Chris-
tiania and Bergen as an important seaport of the
country. It is situated at the mouth of a deep and
well sheltered harbor, and is surrounded on three
sides by cliffs of uniform height. The houses,
mostly of painted wood, are regularly built, and
the streets are wide. There is a fine cathedral and
a cathedral school. The ship-building and the for-
tifications are among the principal attractions.
Crossing the North Sea. 143
CHAPTER VII.
ACROSS THE NORTH SEA, GERMANY AND THE ALPS.
On the 7th of October I embarked on the
Bergen steamer Palace for Hamburg. On this
voyage we had to travel over the North Sea for a
distance of four hundred English miles. It was a
very rough passage, as a heavy gale was blowing ;
and, if one desired a promenade on the lower deck,
he would have to take it knee deep in water.
Under such circumstances I preferred to remain in
my small state-room, for the cabin was small and
uncomfortable for passengers. We had on board
a heavy cargo of fish. The North Sea. was the
stormiest body of water I had sailed on up to this
time, and it has the reputation of being the rough-
est water in the northern world.
I had now been on shore for several weeks, and
had again to get accustomed to the sea. Seeing
me in one of my worst spells of sea-sickness, the
captain said ; " Well! Mr. Johnson, I can not see
where you can find any pleasure in your tour
around the world if you can not stand the sea any
better than this." I told him I probably would not
find much amusement were the North Sea to follow
144 Around the World.
me all the way around, but that in the beginning I
had expected to experience many unpleasant things.
The sights I saw and the pleasures I experienced
in all the countries and amongst the various nations
I visited were sufficient in all instances to repay me
for the comparatively few uncomfortable days I
had to endure while traveling on the ocean. This
rough passage, however, was not without some at-
traction ; for I was much interested in watching
the multitude of vessels which were traversing the
waters of this sea, each with spreading sails hurry-
ing along- to its destination.
On the 9th of October we steamed up the Elbe
River to the busy city of Hamburg, one of the
free cities of Germany, and I once more found my-
self on German soil. I gave a brief description of
this city, however, as I made my northward trip.
At Hamburg I took the cars for Frankfort-on-
the-Main. We traveled over a level and moist val-
ley for a hundred miles, when we arrived at Hano-
ver, a city of about 150,000 inhabitants, situated in
a sandy, fertile plain. The River Leine flows
through the city, having the old town on its right
bank, and the new town between its left bank and
the River Ihme. The old town is irregularly built,
with narrow streets and old-fashioned houses ;
while the new town has wide streets, handsome
buildings and beautiful squares. Of the latter the
most remarkable is the square at the railway ter-
Gottingen — Frankfort-on-the-Main. 145
minus, which has an equestrian statue of King
Ernest Augustus.
The distance from Hanover to Frankfort is 200
miles. The road runs through a fertile valley,
which is almost as densely populated as the
suburbs of a city. This vast expanse of country
is as uniformly level as Stanislaus County, in Cali-
fornia, and struck me as being the finest agricul-
tural country in Europe. The roadways are lined
with shade trees, and on every side can be seen the
comfortable homes of the industrious farmers.
The first city of importance on this route is Got-
tingen, which is quite a railway centre. Here we
changed cars for Frankfort, as I had decided to
travel by the way of Bebra and Fulda. At the
southern end of this road the country is inclined to
be hilly, the soil is of a reddish character, and is
planted to fruit trees and vines.
Frankfort-on-the-Main is one of the principal
cities of the German Empire. It is situated in the
Prussian province of Hesse Nassau, and was, until
1866, one of the four free cities of Germany. It
occupies a position of no small natural beauty in
the midst of the broad and fertile valley of the
Main, its northern horizon being formed by the
soft outlines of the Taunns range. The surround-
ing country is richly clad with orchard and forest,
and, in the spring season especially, presents a
prospect of indescribable luxuriance. I found
10
146 Around the World.
Frankfort an interesting and attractive city, with a
population of about 150,000. It has the reputa-
tion of being the richest city in the world in pro-
portion to its population. The bulk of the capital
of Germany is concentrated here.
In the modern portion, Frankfort will compare
favorably, both in the general appearance of the
streets and the architectural character of indi-
vidual buildings, with all except a very few of the
greater cities of the Continent. Among the most
attractive features of the city are the princely man-
sions of the Rothschilds and other opulent citizens.
The dingy and unpretentious house which saw the
rise of the Rothschild family still stands in the
famous Judenstrasse, or Jews' street. The princi-
pal ecclesiastical building is the Cathedral of St.
Bartholomew. The date of its foundation is not
precisely known ; but a church was erected on the
site at least as early as 874.
Of the secular buildings, perhaps the most char-
acteristic is the Rathhaus, or Romer, dating from
the fifteenth century. It was here, in the Wahl-
zimmer, or election-room, that the electors or their
plenipotentiaries decided the choice of the Em-
peror ; and here, in the Kaiser Halle, or Emperor's
Hall, that the coronation festivities were held. The
palace of the Prince of Thurn and Taxis is a large
building of considerable historical interest. The
Eschenheim Tower is a picturesque relic of the
Heidelberg. 147
ancient fortifications, dating from the middle of the
fourteenth century.
Few cities of the same size as Frankfort are so
richly furnished with literary, scientific and artistic
institutions, or possess so many handsome build-
ings appropriated to their use. The museums, the
zoological gardens and the beautiful pleasure
grounds are all worthy of a visit. There are four
railway stations, which, with the exception of the
one at Stuttgart, are the finest depots in Germany.
The climate in this portion of the empire is similar
to that of France or Italy.
I left Frankfort for Italy on October 12, going
by way of Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, Stuttgart and
Baden-Baden. These are all important cities,
situated in a productive valley in the south of Ger-
many. On the south bank of the Neckar, about
twelve miles from the junction of that river with
the Rhine, and at the opening of the winding
Neckar Valley, the situation of Heidelberg is one
of romantic beauty. Behind it and before it rise
lofty hills covered with vineyards and forests, and
between their fertile slopes the Neckar rushes
swiftly along. To the left the country opens out
into the broad Rhine plain, cultivated like a garden,
and bounded by distant and hardly perceptible
mountains.
The chief building in Heidelberg, and, indeed,
the principal attraction for the stranger, is the
148 Around the World.
famous castle which overhangs the western part of
the town. It is situated on the castle hill, more
properly called Jettenbuhel, 330 feet above the
Neckar. Though now a ruin, yet its extent, its
magnificence, its beautiful situation, and its inter-
esting history render it by far the most noteworthy,
as it certainly is the grandest and largest, of the
old castles of Germany. The University of Hei-
delberg is the oldest in the German Kingdom.
Carlsruhe, the capital of the Grand Duchy of
Baden, I found to be an enterprising city of 55,000
inhabitants. It lies on an elevated plain about
five miles from the Rhine, and is surrounded by
beautiful parks and gardens. It has several public
gardens and some fine squares. In the centre of
the market place is a pyramid in honor of Charles
William, the founder of the city. Carlsruhe car-
ries on a considerable trade, and has quite a number
of manufactories.
Baden-Baden, a celebrated watering place, stands
on the side of a hill, near the Ovs, or Oel, in a
beautiful valley of the Black Forest, eighteen miles
southwest of Carlsruhe. The superiority of its
situation, its extensive pleasure grounds, gardens
and promenades, and the brilliancy of its life dur-
ing the fashionable season, have for a long series
of years continued to attract visitors from all parts
of the world. The hot springs, which were among
the earliest attractions of the place, are twenty-nine
Stuttgart. 149
in number. They flow from the castle rock at the
rate of ninety gallons per minute, and the water is
conveyed through the town in pipes to supply the
different baths. The gaming tables, for so many
years a striking feature of Baden-Baden, are now
abolished.
Stuttgart, the capital of the Kingdom of Wiir-
temberg, is situated on the River Nesan, a tribu-
tary of the Neckar. It stands in a very beautiful
valley, surrounded by vine-clad hills, with well-
wooded mountains in the distance. The town is
encircled by a wall and ditch, is entered by eight
gates, and consists of two parts, the ancient and
modern, with two suburbs. In the chief square is
a fine old Gothic church, with a high tower and
many ancient sculptures and monuments of the
princes of Wiirtemberg. In the vicinity are
numerous parks and gardens, where the public are
admitted, including Rosenstein, the summer palace
of the Kinor
Stuttgart is a very ancient town ; but the date of
its foundation is not known. It has one of the
finest and most spacious railway depots in the
world. On arriving at the station, we had to
descend a long flight of stairs, go underneath the
track, and come up on the other side of the station.
Many of the depots in Europe are constructed on
this plan. However odd this may seem to be, it
guards against accidents that might otherwise
occur.
150 Around the World.
The country is very thickly settled, and one is
hardly ever out of sight of villages or towns.- I
had now traveled the whole leneth of the German
Empire twice in two months, and had seen much
of the life and resources of these industrious
people. I did not see much of the mountain scen-
ery, but was greatly surprised in finding such a
vast area of level land. Much of it was irrigated,
and all well cultivated. Notwithstanding that the
country is densely settled and seemingly over-
populated, the people appeared to be happy and
prosperous. I concluded that economy and indus-
try did it all.
I crossed the River Rhine, and once more found
myself in Switzerland. Before leaving the Rhine,
however, I must not neglect to mention the delight-
ful ride I had on this most beautiful river. I found
its banks lined with gigantic trees, their branches
projecting over the water's edge. The sources of
the Rhine are found in the Swiss Canton of
Grisons. It is about 800 miles in length, and
drains an area of 75,000 square miles. It connects
the highest Alps with the mud banks of Holland,
is the chief river of Germany, and has been one
of the most important waterways of Europe from
the earliest times, to which the long array of
ancient and flourishing towns along its banks bear
witness.
Politically the Rhine has always played a great
Recrossing the Alps. 151
part, and it would require no great strain to write
a history of this majestic river which would also be
a history of the western half of Continental Eu-
rope. In military history constant allusion is made
to the Rhine. Every general who has fought in
its neighborhood has at one time or another had
to improvise a means of crossing it, from Julius
Caesar, who crossed it twice, down to our own
time.
It has always exercised a peculiar sort of fasci-
nation over the German mind, in a measure and
in a way not easily paralleled by the case of any
other river. " Father Rhine," as it is sometimes
called, is the centre of the German's patriotism.
In his literature it has played a prominent part,
and its weird and romantic legends have been alter-
nately the awe and the delight of his childhood.
It was the classic river of the middle ages, and
probably the Tiber alone is of equal historical
interest.
In crossing the Alps the second time, I traveled
by way of the St. Gothard Tunnel, the longest tun-
nel in the world, having a total length of ten miles,
and requiring forty minutes to pass through it.
While I have said much in praise of Germany's
stately cities, extensive and fertile valleys, and
majestic rivers, the palm must be accorded to
Switzerland for grand and picturesque mountain
scenery, and beautiful lakes. At the foot of the
152 Around the World.
Alps on this route, is a pastoral region, the chief
resource of which is stock-raising. Here I saw the
largest breed of cattle in Europe. They were
feeding on mountain sides so steep that one won-
dered how they managed to maintain their equi-
librium.
Lake Lucerne was my first stopping place. This
lake has extraordinary interest for the lover of
natural scenery, and for all who feel a sympathy
with the story of Swiss independence. The
irregularity of its form is the chief cause of the
unequaled variety of its scenery ; but the structure
of the mountains that enclose it much enhances the
effect. Its eastern portion lies amid limestone
rocks, which are marked by sharp peaks and ridges
and precipitous crags ; the middle part is enclosed
by such mountains as the Righi and the Burgen-
stein, which show steep faces, with gently sloping
summits ; while the western extremity is surrounded
by swelling hills, richly planted, and dotted with
bright-looking hamlets or solitary farm houses.
The forests which once covered the greater part
of this region have been extensively thinned out ;
but enough yet remains to add another element to
the charms of the scenery. Vineyards are scarcely
seen on the shores of the lake ; but orchards sur-
round most of the houses, and the walnut grows to
great perfection.
On the shores of this lake were nurtured the
Whirlwinds and Avalanches. 153
men who commenced the heroic efforts that secured
freedom for their country. Here, at the beginning
of the fourteenth century, in an age when nearly
all Europe was in the hands of feudal oppressors,
a handful of mountaineers drove out the local
tyrants and leveled their strongholds, and, a few
years later, on the fields of Morgarten and Sem-
pach, confronted and put to flight the chivalry of
Austria.
I had the pleasure of riding with some tourists
from America on one of the small steamers which
traverse the waters of this lake. There are many
other Alpine lakes of great beauty which I visited
while journeying across the Alps. The whirlwinds
of the Alps are worthy of notice, not only on
account of their terrific violence, often overwhelm-
ing the hapless traveler with blinding snow, but on
account of their frequently setting in motion the
dreaded avalanche. So precipitous are the slopes
of many of the Alpine peaks that the giving way
of a slight barrier, a tree or a boulder perhaps, is
sufficient to detach from its original position a vast
mass of snow and ice. This, gathering force from
its fall, brings sudden and inevitable destruction on
whatever may be on its track, burying at times
whole villages, crushing extensive forests, and
filling up the beds of rivers.
154 Around the World.
CHAPTER VIII.
ITALY, GIBRALTAR AND MALTA.
On descending the Alps into Italy, the first city
of importance is Milan, lying in the middle of the
fertile plain of the Lombard. It has a population
of nearly 300,000. Seen from the top of the
cathedral, the surrounding country presents the
appearance of a great garden, divided into square
plats by rows of mulberry or poplar trees. Milan
is built in a circle, the cathedral beino- the central
point, and is surrounded by a wall seven miles in
circumference. Immediately outside the wall, a
fine broad thoroughfare makes the circuit of the
city. The streets inside are, for the most part,
narrow and crooked.
Among the noted buildings the cathedral is the
most important. It is built of brick cased in
marble from the quarries which Visconti gave in
perpetuity to the Cathedral Chapter. It is 447
feet in length and 183 feet wide ; the cupola is 226
feet high, and the tower 360 feet. The roof is
built of blocks of white marble ; is supported by
fifty-two columns, with canopied niches for statues;
and is ornamented with turrets, pinnacles, and 2,000
Milan.
155
statues. The name of the original architect is not
known ; but it is certain that many German master
masons were called to Milan to assist the Italian
builders.
There are four other churches of interest in Mi-
lan. St. Ambrose's, the oldest, was founded by St.
^m-'^m
Mila^i Cathedral.
Ambrose, in the fourth century, on the ruins of the
Temple of Bacchus. The royal and archiepiscopal
palaces are both worthy of note I also visited
the Arsenal, the Crematory and the theatres.
With the exception of the St. Carlo, at Naples,
156, Around the World.
Milan has the largest theatre in Europe. Milan
is rich in works of art, and it has been the home
of many excellent sculptors and architects. The
picture gallery of the Breva is one of the finest in
Italy.
As I was again in a new country, my baggage
must be examined at the custom house. At the
time of my visit to Italy the cholera was raging,
and all baggage was put into an intensely hot cell
for about ten minutes. This was required as a pre-
caution against the epidemic. While undergoing
this process of purification, my leather valise had a
hole burned in it.
Once more I had to contend with new customs,
new coin, and, worst of all, an unfamiliar language.
I had to employ an interpreter to point out the ob-
jects of interest and explain the many strange
sights. The ordinary fee for such services is five
francs a day, and as much more as they can get out
of the unwary stranger. The traveler on the south
side of the Alps is subject to constant annoyance
from beggars, and all sorts of imposition from run-
ners and guides.
From Milan to Venice was a ten-hours ride on
the cars. The northern half of this route was
over a moist and level valley, thickly planted to
vines and fruit trees. All kinds of vegetation
grow in profusion, and the roadway for miles was
lined with ornamental shade trees. I was almost
Verona —Venice. 157
tempted to think I had found the Paradise of
Europe. The Italian women are not behind their
sisters on the other side of the Alps so far as out-
door labor is concerned. Everywhere in the fields
or gardens they could be seen busily engaged in
hoeing, raking or pruning. For this hard and
constant toil they are poorly remunerated.
One of the most interesting cities we pass be-
tween Milan and Venice is Verona. This is a very
ancient city, and the date of its foundation is un-
known ; but Julius Caesar established a colony
here, and under the Romans it became a flourish-
ing city. It has a population of about 65,000.
Verona is situated on both sides of the river
Adige, which is crossed by four stone bridges.
The town is surrounded by extensive fortifications,
and has five gates. Many of the streets are nar-
row and dusty ; but some are wide and well kept.
It stands in a beautiful country at the foot of the
hills which form a portion of the Tyrolese Alps.
Venice is on the Gulf of Venice, which is prop-
erly a portion of the Adriatic Sea. About four
miles from the coast is a long and narrow belt with
a number of openings through which the waters of
the Adriatic Sea make their way, forming a lagoon
from twenty-five to thirty miles long and about five
miles broad and containing seventy-two small
islands. Into this lagoon, piles have been driven,
and upon them Venice has been built, so that from
(158)
Grand Canal — Rialto — Gondolas. 159
any point the city seems to be floating in the water.
It is an extremely interesting place to the sight-
seer. Communication between the various parts
of the city is by water. There are only two streets
worthy of the name, — Mauria, which is situated in
the centre of the city, and is from twelve to twenty
feet wide ; and the Piazza of St. Mark, with the
Piazzetta leading- from it to the canal. The Piazza
is surrounded on all sides by handsome buildings,
and is a favorite resort for loungers and tourists.
The Grand Canal is from ioo to 180 feet wide,
and is lined on both sides by magnificent buildings,
many of which come down to the water's edge, so
that people step from them into the gondolas.
There are 146 smaller canals, which arc crossed by
360 bridges; but over the Grand Canal, there is
only one, called the Rialto. This is a magnificent
marble structure, built in 1590, at a cost of -more
than half a million dollars.
The gondolas, which in Venice take the place of
carriages and fast horses in other cities, are a
species of barge. They are flat bottomed, usually
about thirty feet long, are as narrow as a canoe,
and are always painted black. The bows terminate
in sharp points, ornamented with brass, which
curve upward like a goose's neck to the height of
several feet. Near the centre of the gondola is a
small cabin with glazed windows hung with black
curtains. The gondoliers, or boatmen, are gener-
160 Around the World.
ally barefooted and half clad. They are so expert
in the management of their craft that a collision or
accident is almost unknown, notwithstanding the
fact that in some quarters the water is fairly
swarming with boats. The city is full of gondo-
liers, runners, guides, beggars and peddlers, all
lying in wait for an opportunity to squeeze the
loose change from the traveling public.
Venice was at one time one of the proudest and
wealthiest cities in Southern Europe, and carried
on an extensive commerce ; but for several cen-
turies her commerce has been declinine, the ma-
jority of her people have relapsed into indolence
and vice, and her magnificent palaces are slowly
falling into decay.
The public buildings are numerous and splendid.
The most important of the churches is the Cathe-
dral of St. Mark. The foundations of this church
were laid in 977 ; but it was not entirely completed
until mi. It is built in the form of a Greek
cross, with the addition of porches. While it was
building, every vessel returning from the East to
Venice was obliged to bring pillars and marble for
its construction. The principal front is 1 70 feet
wide, and has 500 columns of various shapes and
colors. Over the central vestibule stand the cele-
brated bronze horses which were brought from the
hippodrome at Constantinople when that city was
taken by the Crusaders. They are said to have
♦ The Arsenal — Bridge of Sighs. 161
been cast twenty-seven years before the birth of
Christ. In 1797 they were carried to Paris by
Napoleon, but were restored in 18 15. The inte-
rior of the church is exceedingly beautiful, the floor
is of tessellated mosaic work, and the walls and
columns of different kinds of marble.
In nothing is the past greatness of the Venetian
Republic better illustrated than in the Arsenal, a
large building on an island in the eastern part of
the city. It is surrounded by extensive ramparts.
Near the principal entrance stand four lions in
bronze, which were brought from Greece in 1685.
At one time 16,000 workmen were employed at the
Arsenal. At the close of the eighteenth century
many of the curiosities of the model-room were
destroyed by the revolutionists, among them the
Bucentoro, the vessel in which the doge annually
espoused the sea. This ceremony was intended to
illustrate the dominion of the republic over the
Adriatic Sea.
One of the most imposing public buildings is
the ducal palace. This palace contains many mag-
nificent rooms, and is enriched with splendid paint-
ings, some of which are among the earliest speci-
mens of oil painting on canvas. Opposite the
palace, and connected with it by the Bridge of
Sighs, are the public prisons, capable of containing
500 persons. At the right of the Cathedral of St.
Mark is a lofty bell tower, ninety-eight metres high,
11
162 Around the World. *
built in 1494. It contains a curious clock, above
which are two large bronze figures which strike the
hours upon a bell. I also visited the museum, the
Academy of Fine Arts, and the glass manufac-
tories. Up to the close of the last century, Venice
was the teacher of Europe in the manufacture of
glass, and her wares were the most perfect and
elegant in use. All kinds of glassware can be
seen here, from the daintiest bijoutry to the largest
French plate mirror.
I was importuned on every side to purchase ex-
pensive presents for my friends of the feminine
persuasion in America ; but, as much of my journey
was yet to be accomplished, and with the inevitable
custom house always looming up before me, I
resolutely declined to handicap myself with more
luggage. The guides, of course, were always
anxious to assist the salesmen in disposing of their
wares, and for this assistance they generally receive
commissions. The hotel which leads all others in
Venice is the Hotel de Italy, a stately structure of
two hundred rooms. Accommodations can be had
for fifteen francs per day. The dining tables were
beautifully decorated with glassware. The popu-
lation of the city seems to be a mixture of almost
every element and every nationality, and numbers
about 144,000.
On the 26th of October I left Venice for Flor-
ence, which is ten hours' ride from the former city.
Bologna — Florence. 163
Midway between the two cities is Bologna. This
city is about two miles long, and a mile and a half
broad ; it is surrounded by a high brick wall, and
has twelve gates. The streets are generally
narrow and crooked, but clean and well paved ;
the houses mostly three stories high, and all public
and private buildings built of brick. It has a
population of 160,000. This city contains no less
than 130 churches, the largest of which is San
Petronio, an unfinished but splendid structure,
which dates from 1390. Bologna has long been
famous for its sausages and its soap, its manufac-
tures comprising many other varieties of articles
as well. It is the birthplace of many famous men,
and is very ancient. It is said to have been
founded by an Etruscan king.
From Bologna to Florence the road runs over a
mountainous country, and we passed through
twenty-four tunnels, some of them very difficult of
construction. Florence is situated on both sides
of the River Arno, which here flows through a
wide valley. On the north the city is bounded by
spurs of the Apennines, on the south by low hills
belonging to the same range. The climate is
salubrious. The situation and surroundings are
extremely beautiful, the soil in the vicinity is
remarkably fertile, and corn, vines and olives cover
hill and valley ; while the mountains, which rise
3,000 feet above the city, are covered with cypress,
164 Around the World.
chestnut and pine. The country is noted for its
abundance of flowers. ,
The Florentines are gentle and courteous in their
manners, and were seemingly the most refined peo-
ple on the southern side of the Alps. The city is
well supplied with parks and squares. The Casino,
a large extent of ground planted in long avenues,
of trees, is the fashionable resort of the nobility of
Florence. The Boboli Garden, which belongs to
the royal palace, is open twice a week to the public,
and, with its statues, fountains, terraces and trim
alleys, is the delight of the Florentines. The
streets are paved with stone, which for centuries
has been obtained from quarries south of the city.
There are many stately and beautiful mansions
here, and among the most princely structures is one
belonging to Mackay, the Nevada Silver King.
Florence contains over 170 churches, among the
most remarkable being the Badia, or ancient abbey ;
the cathedral, Sta. Maria Novella, San Marco and
the Annunziata. These churches are very ancient,
and of enormous size.
The Art Gallery contains some of the finest paint-
ings in the world, including several of Raphael's
and Titian's masterpieces. A room called the Tri-
bune contains the greatest treasures of the gallery,
and here are placed the most celebrated statues of
antiquity. The Egyptian Museum is small, but
contains many objects of interest. The Museum
From Florence to Rome. 165
of Etruscan Art, which is situated under the same
roof, contains a collection of ancient mosaics and
bronze, the most important of which is a life-size
bronze statue. It also contains a marble Greek
sarcophagus.
The Campanile, or bell tower, of the Cathedral,
was commenced in 1334. This tower is 275 feet
high and 45 feet square.' It is entirely veneered
with black, red and white marble, and has five
stories. On the basement story are two ranges of
tablets in relief ; one representing the creation of
Adam and Eve, the other the seven virtues, the
planets and the seven sacraments. Take it all in
all, Florence is one of the most beautiful and inter-
esting cities in Italy, and generally one of the first
visited by travelers.
From Florence to Rome is a seven-hours railway
ride over a mountainous and barren region, desti-
tute of timber, and unfit for cultivation. On this
route we passed many ancient and picturesque
ruins. The first thing I did on arriving at the
Eternal City was to select my guide ; and here let
me remark that, although in Rome, I did not
always do as the Romans did.
The first object of interest which I visited was
the Cathedral of St. Peter, the mother of all
churches, at least so far as size and grandeur are
concerned. The interior of this church is 602
English feet long, and 445 feet wide at the tran-
166 Around the World.
sept. The circumference of the circle of pillars
which support the dome is 232 feet, and the cupola
is 193 feet in diameter. From the pavement to the
top of the cross the dome is 430 feet in height. It
is encircled and strengthened by six bands of iron ;
it is surmounted by a balustrade six feet high, and
adorned with statues representing Christ and the
Apostles. The interior is magnificent ; it is orna-
mented in bronze and mosaic. Near the altar are
several gilded portraits of the ancient popes, which
have long Latin inscriptions on them. On the floor
of the church are figures marked giving the dimen-
sions of the large churches in the world, these prov-
ing conclusively that St. Peter's is the largest of
them all. The building of this church, from its
foundation, in 1450, until its dedication, in 1625,
occupied a period of 1 75 years. Visitors congre-
gate here from every part of the world.
Next to St. Peter's, one of the most imposing
and interesting structures is the Vatican, or papal
palace. This palace, which is one of the most
magnificent in the world, is rather a collection of
separate buildings than one regular edifice. It
occupies a space of 1,151 by 767 feet, and has over
200 staircases, 20 courts, and 4,422 rooms. Many
of the rooms are decorated with frescoes by famous
artists. It contains a gallery of statues, a museum
filled with the relics of the ancient inhabitants of
Italy, and a picture gallery which has more treas-
(167)
168 Around the World.
ures than any other gallery in the world, although
the whole catalogue only numbers fifty paintings.
The Capitol, on the famous Capitoline Hill, is
chiefly remarkable for the collection of art it con-
tains within its walls. The two Capitoline museums
are very rich in classical sculpture, bronzes, coins
and pottery. Prominent among the many statues
is a colossal figure of Mar-forises, the river god.
There are many squares in the city consisting of
small paved areas, generally adorned with fountains
and monuments. The fountains are numerous,
and form one of the most attractive features of the
city. They are plentifully supplied with water by
three aqueducts which yet remain in operation of
the many that poured their streams into the ancient
city.
The Piazza Colonna is one of the finest open
spaces in the city ; it is ornamented with a gilt
bronze statue of St. Paul, which is 135 feet high.
At the Piazza di Pietra can be seen the ruins of
the Temple of Neptune. The Church of the
Twelve Apostles is also called the Church of Con-
stantine, after the name of its founder. Under
the portico can be seen the fine monument of
Vopato, and the figure of an eagle brought from
the Trojan Forum. The Roman Forum, Campus
Vaccino, was formerly used as a market place, and
contains many ancient and interesting ruins.
On the Palatine Hill are the remains of the
" The City of the Seven Hills!' 1 169
palace of that name. The gardens are open to
the public on Sundays and Thursdays. They are
generally thronged with visitors. The ancient city
of Rome was originally founded on this hill, and,
as the city grew, it spread over several of the
adjoining eminences, and finally became known as
"the City of the Seven Hills." The Lateran, a
museum of classical sculpture and early Christian
remains, was, until the fourteenth century, the resi-
dence of the pope. In this museum were fine
statues of Hercules and Neptune. The Pyramid
of Cestius is a grand sepulchral monument, built
of concrete, and faced with white marble. It is
1 1 8 feet high, and contains a small chamber deco-
rated with stucco. On the marble facing is an
inscription in large letters stating that this is the
tomb of C. Cestius.
The Circo Agonalis is one of the largest open
spaces in Rome, and was probably formerly used
as a circus. It is ornamented with fountains, and
has other interesting features to attract visitors.
Palace Spadra contains a collection of antiquities,
pictures' and statuary, among the latter a statue of
Aristotle in a sitting posture. The Collosseum is
one of the most interestincr of the Roman ruins.
It has been stripped of its exterior ornamentation,
the interior is entirely dismantled, and much of the
outer wall has been carried off for the sake of the
material ; but it still remains a most imposing and
sublime ruin.
lYO Around the World.
The city is divided into ancient and modern
Rome. Ancient Rome is a city of traditions, and
full of historical interest. At one time it covered
a circuit of thirteen miles, and embraced a popula-
tion of nearly 2,000,000. Corso street was the
principal street in old Rome. Extensive ruins,
magnificent palaces and public buildings testify to
her former greatness. Ancient Rome was built
on a series of low-lying hills, while the modern
city is built chiefly on still higher land. The
streets are clean, well paved and well lighted.
The principal business streets are full of life and
activity ; but for hundreds of years to come the
old city will prove the attraction to travelers and
tourists.
In no other city did I see a wider constrast be-
tween wealth and poverty ; one portion of the
population living in opulence and splendor, the
other in raes and filth. The streets are filled with
beggars, and venders of small wares, all struggling
with the problem of existence, presenting a novel
scene of confusion to the stranger.
It would require volumes, and years of research,
to do justice to this old city ; and, as my time was
limited to the space of a few days, I am unable to
give a detailed account of much that would prove
of interest.
The following wa s written to the author's home
paper, the Modesto Herald :
Correspondence. 171
LETTER FROM ROME.
Special Correspondence of the Herald.
Rome, Italy, Oct. 15, 1885.
Editors Herald : — I must send you a few more lines about my
rambles in the Eastern hemisphere. Since I wrote you from Switzerland I
have been interestingly sight seeing on the Continent of Europe, and have
traveled thousands of miles on land and water as fast as express trains and
steamers could carry me. I have crossed the Baltic and the North Seas.
In Norway I remained the longest and traveled the most. I find that country
consists chiefly of fjelds, fosses and fjords. From Christiania to Doverfjeld
the picturesque scenery is extremely grand, and presents to the eye a pano-
rama. I also traveled extensively in Sweden and Denmark. These countries
are densely populated; but I found no great attractions for tourists to feed
their eyes upon. I have been over the length of the whole German Empire,
by two different routes, and have been in all the leading cities, including
Berlin, Bremen, Stuttgart, Hamburg, Frankfort-on-the-Main, Carlsruhe,
Hanover, and many others, in my journey. Frankfort, a city of 155,000
inhabitants, is beautifully located in the heart of a level valley. It has
wide, well-paved sidewalks, stately mansions, richly furnished stores, and
the inhabitants equal those of any city of its size in Europe for dress, style
and elegance.
Germany, south of Frankfort, is well improved, and the soil of the most
productive kind, as was shown by the valley being dressed in the finest pro-
ductions for many miles on the River Rhine. In all German)', there is a
fine, level farming country, but destitute of mountain scenery. Next comes
Basel, the finest city in Switzerland, which country I have also been over
in two different directions. As I have just recommended Germany for its
beautiful level valleys, I will reverse my praise to Switzerland for its attractive
mountain scenery. While Germany has few scenes, Switzerland has enough
to make up for the whole of Europe, including her Alps and glaciers. She
has many interesting attractions to sight-seers. A strange feature is that this
elevated country is not of a rocky character, except on the Alps. Small
farms may be seen almost to the hill-tops, dressed in green, produce of all
kinds, and fruits and vines.
Oxen and women are often seen working together in the fields Some-
times see a mixed team of horses and oxen, but seldom more than three in
number.
This is the second time I have crossed the Alps. The first was to Aus-
tria, and this time to Italy. In coming to Italy I passed through the St.
Gothard Tunnel, the longest tunnel in the world. As the railroads are built
172 Around the World.
much on elevated ground, it gives the tourist a fine view of the many scenes,
from the pyramidic peaks to the glittering streams at the foot of the great
A'ps, and rugged chain of mountains. As a consequence the railroad tunnels
are many, and difficult of construction. Some of them are made in the shape
of loops, and in corkscrew style.
After leaving the Alps, the first city I sighted in Italy of importance was
Milan. It has a population of 300,000, and is a great terminal point for
railroads. Here I found many points of interest, but did not see the place of
cremation. From Milan I resumed my journey to Venice. The country on
this route is mainly attractive for its moist, rich soil, and thickly planted in
fine rows of trees and grape-vines. I begin to think I have struck the Para-
dise of Europe. The city of Venice I find located in the Adriatic Bay,
several miles from the mainland, built on small islands, and it is said to be
one of the oldest cities in the world. It has 144,000 inhabitants. The main
street in Venice is the Grand Canal, where little steamers take passengers and
goods and land them at their doors. Hundreds of other small row boats, or
gondolas, are used in smaller streets and alleys to convey people and their lug-
gage to any part of the city. No horses or vehicles are seen or needed here.
The chief attraction here is the fine glass works and the St. Marquis Square.
It is said to be the finest square in the world. Next is the Bell Tower, ninety-
eight metres high ; the Royal Palace, the Doge's Palace, the Grand Museum,
the Hotel de Italy and the Grand Opera. These are some of the leading
objects in Venice. The city is full of porters and runners lying in wait to
squeeze the loose change'from the traveler.
From Venice to Florence was ten hours' run on the cars. A large por-
tion of this was over a broken and mountainous country. We went through
twenty-four tunnels before we arrived in Florence. This city has 160,000
inhabitants. I was much impressed with the beautiful location and appear-
ance of Florence; and, after I had my Italian guide along to point out and
show me all the fine arts and leading points of interest over the city, I con-
cluded I had at last found a good second to Vienna, in Austria.
From Florence to Rome was seven hours' run over the roughest country
I have found in Italy. At last in Rome, and I must do as the Romans do.
Among the grandest attractions in Rome are St. Peters, and the Pope's Palace,
or the Vatican. The many departments and galleries of fine arts, painted
and ornamented in gilt and bronze, are the grandest sights I ever saw.
Nothing in London or Paris can compare with this imposing edifice, nor do
I expect to see in my whole trip around the globe the grandeur I see here in
Rome. St. Peter's Church is the largest in the world, ornamented also in
gilt and bronze. St. Paul's is the next largest church. Rome has five hun-
dred church buildings, and it is full of statues, sculptures, fountains and
Naples and its Surroundings. 173
museums. I have paid my guide five francs per day to take me all over the
city, and show me the ruins and points of interest, until I am satisfied that
this is Rome, Rome. So soon as I see the Pope, the monks, the marquises
and counts, I will resume my journey to Naples; and, when I have done that
city justice, I will take a steamer for Constantinople, thence to Egypt, and
extend my travels around the world. When I get to the land of the Pharaohs,
you may hear from me again. Osmun Johnson.
Naples is situated on the northern shore of the
Bay of Naples, and fanned by the spicy breezes of
the Mediterranean. It is 169 miles distant from
Rome by rail, and is the largest and most populous
city in Italy, having about 600,000 inhabitants. It
disputes with Constantinople the claim of enjoying
the most beautiful site in Europe. The Italians
say: "See Naples and die." While I am not quite
ready to shuffle off this mortal coil, I am willing to
admit, that probably no other place in the world
combines so much natural beauty with so many
objects of interest to the lover of antiquity.
Naples is built at the base and on the slope of a
range of hills which are divided by a ridge into two
natural crescents. The western crescent is a narrow
strip of land between Yomero Hill and the sea. It
is the fash'onable quarter, and is most affected by
foreign residents and visitors. The eastern crescent
is by far the largest as well as the oldest part of
Naples, and includes the ports, the arsenal and the
principal churches. A magnificent view, both of
land and water, can be had from the hills, which
form a background to the city ; though the city it-
(174)
/
Vesuvius — The Blue Grotto. 175
self is seen to the best advantage from the water,
and the approach from the sea is famous for its
loveliness.
Naples has most interesting surroundings. In
the near distance is Mount Vesuvius, which pre-
sents a scene of matchless grandeur. It has been
in action at intervals for 1,900 years. Its first
eruption is said to have occurred in 79 A. D., at
which time Pompeii was destroyed. Another place
of interest is the famous Blue Grotto, on the Island
of Capri. The scenery throughout this island is
of unusual beauty, and it is said to have been a
favorite resort of Cicero, Nero, and other historical
characters. It is chiefly celebrated, however, as
the retreat of Tiberius, the last ten years of his
reign having been spent here.
Principal among the buildings of especial inter-
est is the National Museum, better known as the
Muser Borbonico. This contains a lar^e collection
of household utensils, statues, vases, gold, silver
and bronze coins, made 79 years after the birth of
Christ; in fact, everything that would bear removal
from Herculaneum and Pompeii. It also contains
a number of celebrated statues, among which are
those of Alexander the Great, Tiberius and Her-
cules. This museum is a treasure house of early
Italian and Roman antiquities. Note-book in hand,
I followed my guide from room to room, he pointing
out and explaining the various objects of interest.
176 Around the World.
The Egyptian room contains a collection of
Egyptian furniture, cooking utensils and agricul-
tural implements, the latter of the rudest construc-
tion. In viewing this ancient collection, one could
not but remark on the wide difference which exists
between then and now. In this room are also many-
fine pictures, including the Farnese Bull. This
picture is an exemplification of a Greek legend,
which runs as follows : Dirce, the wife of Lycus,
King of Thebes, sorely persecuted Antiope, who
finally escaped to Mount Cithaeron, where her twin
sons, who were unconscious of their parentage,
were being brought up by herdsmen. Dirce, who
had come to the hill for a Dionysiac ceremony,
proposed that the sons, Amphion and Zethus, should
tie Antiope to the horns of a wild bull, to be
dragged to death. They were about to do so, when
a herdsman announced their relationship, and they
then tied Dirce to the bull instead.
The third and fourth rooms are chiefly filled with
large equestrian statues. Principal among them
are those of Julius Caesar, Tiberius and Ves-
pasius, also a fine statue of Nero after a victorious
battle, and the marble statue of Balbi. A large
room in the upper story is filled with small bronzes.
This collection contains a large variety of articles
suggestive of the domestic life of Pompeii and
Herculaneum. The mosaic pavements in this sec-
tion are of peculiar interest.
In the National Museum. 177
The collection of sepulchral vases comprises
upward of three thousand specimens. The gallery
of painting comprises a collection of masterpieces
by the world's most renowned artists. In the hall
of Flora is the Flora Farnese, one of the master-
pieces of ancient sculpture. The collection of
ancient glass contains nearly every article into
which glass can be worked. The library is very
large, and contains many thousand books in both
the ancient and modern languages, as well as many
ancient and valuable manuscripts. I have neither
time nor space for a detailed description of the
many wonderful and valuable objects of interest in
this museum, but have given a brief description of
those which most attracted my attention.
Near the museum is an imposing memorial of
the revolutions of 1799, 1820, 1848 and i860, con-
sisting of four colossal lions in bronze, and sur-
rounded by a high iron fence. A few steps from
here brought me to a public park, which adjoins
the sea. It is much frequented by tourists and
sight-seers. One of the main features of this park
is a lofty statue in the shape of a dome, which is
ornamented with small sculptures from the base to
the top. In many directions statues, fountains and
other interesting curiosities can be seen. Here
also is the largest church in the city.
The streets are generally well paved with square
blocks of lava ; sidewalks, where they exist, are
178 Around the World.
nearly always narrow ; the houses are more re-
markable for their size and solidity than for their
elegance, and no other city in the world possesses
such a mass of houses of the same description and
so densely crowded with all sorts of people.
The business portion of the city presents a
most animated and interesting appearance to the
sight-seer. Owing to the balmy climate, and the
fondness of the people for out-door life, a great
deal of the trade is carried on on the sidewalks,
both in selling and manufacturing goods. One of
the queer features of this custom is that you fre-
quently see hundreds of little boys, sitting or
standing on the walks, and industriously engaged
in learning a trade. An expert mechanic can be
had for three francs a day. A laborer receives
twenty pennies, or forty cents. The streets are
crowded with venders of worthless wares, who sing
out at the top of their voices the articles they have
for sale. The beggars and guides help to swell
the number, surrounding a stranger like a swarm of
bees, and are a source of great annoyance. One
is forced to the conclusion that Naples, in addition
to being one of the most interesting cities in Italy,
is also one of the most annoying ones.
A great deal of poverty exists among the lower
classes; but the people in general seem to be
happy and contented. They consume little, and
that little is cheap. For three cents a day a man
A Brilliant Landscape. 179
can get his fill of macaroni, and for three cents
more he can have very good fish or vegetables
fried in oil. These can be procured at any of the
innumerable stands of itinerant cooks about the
streets.
The upper classes are refined in appearance, gen-
erally well educated ; as a rule, tastefully dressed ;
and the men are better looking than the women.
The scholars and men of science in Naples are
celebrated throughout Italy for their devotion to
their respective branches of study.
At the Bristol Hotel, which is situated on an
overhanging bluff, we had a splendid view of the
bus)' life on the bay and in the brilliant city. We
could also see the reflection of the Blue Grotto,
on the Isle of Capri, twenty miles distant ; and
Mount Vesuvius, which has been in action for
nearly two thousand years. In the distance could
be seen the Mediterranean, the harbor teeming
with vessels carrying the Hags of all nations.
Naples is justly regarded as one of the most inter-
esting cities of the world, on account of its classical
associations, its numerous palaces and public build-
ings, the picturesque animation of its principal
streets, and the beauty of its situation. I was for-
tunate in securing the services of a eood enide
who had all the points of interest at his finger-
ends. He was sure not to lose me, as I paid him
the enormous salary of five francs per day.
180
Around the World.
At Naples I had an opportunity of joining an
excursion party to Gibraltar, and visiting the exten-
sive fortifications that the world has heard so much
about. They are certainly formidable. Gibraltar
is situated on the European side of the narrow
strait which forms the entrance to the Mediter-
ranean. The rock, as this promontory is generally
called, rises abruptly from the low, sandy isthmus
The Town and Rock of Gibraltar.
which connects it with the mainland, to a height of
1,200 feet. The eastern side needs no defense
beyond its own precipitous cliffs, and the northern
and southern sides are so steep as to be almost
wholly inaccessible. The western side slopes down
toward the water, and here are situated the town
and the principal fortifications.
Inside the fortifications are two ranges of gal-
Gibraltar — Malta. 18 1
leries cut out of solid rock, and portholes are cut
at intervals of twelve yards, and are so contrived
that gunners are safe from any possible assailant.
This fortress is almost impregnable ; any fleet of
modern artillery attempting to take it would find it
a hard nut to crack.
The town of Gibraltar is chiefly inhabited by
Spaniards. At the time of my visit they were
suffering with cholera. The whole population,
whether civil or military, is subject to certain strin-
gent rules. For even a day's sojourn a stranger
must obtain a pass from the town mayor; and, if
he wishes to remain longer, a consul or house-
holder must become security for his good behavior.
Licenses of residence are granted only for short
periods ; but they may be renewed if necessary.
Gibraltar is a mean-looking town, with narrow
streets and lanes. The houses are a mixture of
English and Spanish style. The people may at
any moment be called upon to give up their houses
and grounds to the military authorities ; so they
are naturally deterred from spending much money
on their dwellings or buildings.
On this excursion we also visited Malta, one of
Great Britain's Mediterranean possessions. This
island is seventeen miles long, and nine miles
broad at its widest part. We landed at Valetta,
the capital, which is situated on a splendid natural
harbor. No sooner had the steamer dropped
182 Around the World.
anchor than we were surrounded by a swarm of
small row-boats, whose dusky boatmen were scram-
bling and yelling, each endeavoring to get passengers
to convey to the shore, a distance of about ioo
yards. For this service they will demand a shilling,
but, after some hard bargaining and much bicker-
ing, they will take threepence, or six cents, instead
of fifty. On landing, we were again surrounded by
natives of various professions, from a cabman to a
beggar. However, after selecting a guide, we pro-
ceeded to view the town.
The first thino- that I observed was that the
narrow streets were thronged with beggars. This
annoyance extended to all the Oriental towns.
Among the places of interest we visited were the
Governor's palace, a comfortable structure, con-
taining many portraits and paintings of former
knights of the island ; and the Cathedral of St.
John, famous for its rich inlaid marbles, its Brussels
tapestries and its painted roof, and containing some
fine paintings and sculpture. We next visited an-
other church, where we were shown the dried
remains of a number of priests, some of whom had
died as recently as 1870. It was customary, when
a priest died, to put his body in a slow oven, and
there let it remain for one year, when it was taken
out and exhibited in the collection. They are now
prohibited from continuing this custom.
We inspected the fortifications, which seem
Return to Naples. 183
almost impregnable, and visited the Garden of San
Antonio, where we saw a large quantity of tropical
fruits, which were growing in profusion. Another
point of interest is the catacombs, which are hewn
out of the solid rock, and extend 200 yards under
the ground. The guide pointed out a chamber
said to have been occupied by the Apostle Paul.
Here also is an underground passage extending for
a distance of seven and a half miles.
No river, brook or lake exists on this island, and
it is destitute of forests. Malta is excessively hot
in summer, and the sirocco prevails, especially in
autumn. The climate, however, is not considered
less salubrious than that of other parts of Southern
Europe, and in the winter it is delightful. The
atmosphere is so clear that at all times of the year
the summitrof Mt. yEtna, 130 miles distant, may be
seen during the rising and the setting of the sun.
On leaving Malta, we returned to Naples, where
I took the cars for Brindisi, a thirteen-hours railway
ride from Naples. Of course, I was locked up in a
compartment, in English style, which to my mind
is an uncomfortable one, but which seems to pre-
vail on both sides of the Alps. This route runs
principally over an agricultural country occupied
by the industrious peasant, who seems to prefer
work to rest, although poorly compensated for his
labor. In every direction, in field and garden, both
sexes could be seen toiling in the hot sun.
184 Around the World.
The most important cities on this line are Foggia
and Bari. Foggia is situated near the centre of
the great plain of Apulia, 122 miles by rail from
Naples ; is well built, and the main streets are wide
and clean. It has become a great railway junction,
just as it was formerly the meeting place of the
principal roads of the country. It is a staple mar-
ket for corn and wool, and the corn magazines are
very extensive, consisting of vaults lined with ma-
sonry, built under the principal streets and squares.
Bari is situated on the Adriatic Sea, and is quite
an important commercial town. The inhabitants
are skillful seamen, and carry on a large traffic, in
their own ships, with different parts of the Adriatic.
The older part of the town is gloomy and irregular ;
the new portion has wide streets and handsome
buildings.
Brindisi is situated at the head of a bay of the
Adriatic. The streets are narrow and crooked, and
the town presents a somewhat dilapidated appear-
ance. Since the restoration of its maritime im-
portance, which is principally due to the fact that
it forms the great transit station in the overland
route to Asia by the way of the Mount Cenis Rail-
way and the Suez Canal, some improvement has
taken place. It has some ancient ruins of consid-
erable interest, principal among which is a remark-
able column supposed by some to have marked the
termination of the Appian Way.
The Mediterranean Voyage. 185
CHAPTER IX.
THE MEDITERRANEAN, EGYPT, RED SEA AND
ARABIAN SEA.
On the 30th of October I embarked on the
spacious steamer Gwalior, for Egypt, via Greece.
The Mediterranean was as calm as a mill-pond, and
the voyage was much more enjoyable than the one
over the stormy Atlantic, North Sea or Baltic.
On this ship were tourists from every quarter of
the globe, and all ranks were represented, from an
English nobleman to a California farmer. It
seemed singular to me, that, out of such a large
number of tourists, I was the only one who repre-
sented the " Golden State ;" and, more singular
still, the only one from America ; and, strangest of
all, the only one who expected to make an entire
circuit of the globe.
This short voyage over the Mediterranean was a
very pleasant one, as I had many agreeable com-
panions, and had several most interesting conver-
sations with some of these aristocratic passengers
on board the ship. I was the only one who could
answer the hundreds of questions they found to ask
in regard to the resources and wonders of Califor-
186 Around the World.
nia. It is strange how well a man will remember
all the good points of his home country when he
comes to travel abroad, and it did not take me long
to convey the information that California was
gifted with all the blessings that Nature could
bestow.
I was not far behind my European companions
in asking questions, for their country and their cus-
toms were as new and strange to me as were mine
to them, and I derived much information from my
new-found friends. Every vocation has its own
range of thought and talent, and one can hardly
fail to be interested and improved by an inter-
change of ideas. In pursuing the ordinary routine
of daily life, we ofttimes let our thoughts and ideas
follow one particular channel, and we need to get
out among our fellow-men and widen our expe-
rience. We shall then find that much that had
seemed of importance to us will grow small and
insignificant.
The vessel on which I was now traveling, and
the Kiserhind, on which I made the last and
longest portion of my journey, belonged to the
Peninsular and Oriental Steamship Company,
which goes by the name of the P. and O. Line.
This line runs about sixty large vessels, and is said
to be one of the safest and most reliable lines
whose vessels traverse the Eastern waters. Acci-
dents are almost unknown on this line, even on the
Dining- at Sea. 187
"a
Bay of Biscay and the Red Sea, where shipwrecks
are of common occurrence.
The traveler will have no trouble in keeping his
body together, as he is surrounded by luxury and
plenty. It is the rule on these steamers to have
five meals a day. Coffee and sandwiches are
served at 6 a. m., breakfast at 8 a. m., and lunch at
i p. m. This lunch consists of a long list of dainty
dishes which will compare favorably with the
viands served on the Mississippi steamers, which
once had the reputation of having the best tables
of any boats in the world. Dinner is served at
seven o'clock, and this is, of course, the principal
meal. We were often served with a dozen differ-
ent kinds of meat, including fowl and fish. The
evenings were spent in promenading on the deck,
or in various amusements and pastimes, and at
9 p. M. sandwiches are again served.
If the traveler desires any beverage to keep him
in a good humor, he will find the bar supplied with
liquors and wines of all kinds, including stout and
Dublin porter at sixpence a bottle. This bar was
certainly well patronized, if one could judge from
the large stock of empty bottles which rapidly
accumulated from day to day. The cabins, saloons
and state-rooms on this steamer were spacious and
comfortable, which is more than can be said of
many of the steamers which sail on Eastern seas.
Two of the worst habits in which sea-going people
188 Around the World.
generally indulge, are intemperance and profanity.
The former seems more prevalent on English, and
the latter on American, steamers. Swearing, by
either officers or crew, is strictly against the rule
on the English passenger lines ; but there seems to
be no objection to their drinking to their hearts'
content. On the American vessels the rule seems
to be reversed ; as I saw very little tippling, but
the crew, from the captain to the cook, indulged in
profanity on all occasions.
The first country we approached after leaving
Italy was Greece. This country is small in space,
but wonderful in physical advantages, and the
beauty and variety of its scenery are unequaled.
The coast line is broken by numerous bays and
harbors, which give it unusual maritime facilities.
The climate is salubrious, the soil fertile, and
olives, figs, and other tropical plants grow luxuri-
antly. The methods of tilling the soil are still
primitive, and modern implements are not em-
ployed to any extent.
This little kingdom has been subject to more
than its share of turmoil and strife ; but at present
it is blessed with prosperity and peace. Want of
time prevented me from visiting Athens, the great
political centre of the country. The cities at
which we stopped were Navarino, Zante, Candia
and Ghazze. After leaving the latter place, Greece
soon faded from our view and we had had our
last glimpse of Europe.
Egypt. 189
As we neared the land of the Pharoahs the water
was dotted with sailing craft of every description.
Vessels of all kinds were seen on every side, from
the stately man-of-war to the boat of the Algiers
pirate. I noticed that nearly all nations had their
men-of-war stationed in the ports of the Mediter-
ranean to look after their subjects and the interests
of their respective countries. We soon sighted the
low coast of Egypt, and I was to have my first
glimpse of the Orient.
The first port at which we stopped was Alex-
andria. This city was founded by Alexander the
Great, 332 B. C. The ancient city contained mag-
nificent buildings, and was for centuries the centre
of commerce and of learning-. Few of the remains
of the ancient city are now visible. Among the
most striking is the column called " Pompey's
Pillar." It stands on a mound of earth about
forty feet high, has a height of ninety-eight feet, and
consists of a single piece of red granite. The
greatest drawback to Alexandria is the shallow
and uncertain harbor, where it is often a difficult
task for vessels to get in and out. The population
, numbers 250,000, and is of a very mixed character,
consisting of people of nearly every nationality.
I visited the museum, which is filled with Egyp-
tian antiquities and many curious relics of an ancient
civilization. My Arabian guide kept me moving
from object to object. I also visited the various
190 Around the World.
mosques, and many ancient and curious ruins, —
sights which, at first interesting, after a time be-
come monotonous.
From Alexandria to Cairo is a distance of 150
miles by rail. Cairo is the capital of Egypt, and
is situated on the east bank of the Nile, about
twelve miles from the apex of its delta. The
Nile is the chief natural feature of Egypt, and the
yearly inundations are the great feature of the
country. With the exception of a few fertile
oases, nearly all the cultivated land of Egypt lies
in the valley and the Delta of the Nile. Twelve
miles above Cairo the river separates into two
streams, which continue to diverge until they reach
the Mediterranean, where they are nearly eighty
miles apart. The triangular space enclosed by the
two branches of the river is called the Delta.
The soil is unsurpassed in fertility, and its rich-
ness is annually renewed by the inundations of the
river, which deposits on the land a coating which
enriches the soil. In many parts plowing is dis-
pensed with, the seed is thrown upon the mud, and
sheep or pigs turned loose in the fields to trample
in the grain. On this annual inundation depends
the success of the crops, as, by either falling or
rising too high, it causes much damage and dis-
tress.
Cairo is partly on a plain and partly on the
lower slopes of a rocky range of hills. The cita-
MI!!IiH:!aliil:!|! , ' iJ|i '
(191)
L92 Around the World.
del stands on an eminence 250 feet above the level
of the city, and the view from its ramparts is one
of great beauty and magnificence. On the eastern
side the Desert of Sahara extends almost to the
gates of the city.
In every street I chanced to stroll, I was sur-
rounded by beggars, and they tormented me the
most of any of this class that I ever had the mis-
fortune to meet. No matter which way you turn,
they keep following you, shouting backsheesh, back-
sheesh; and, were it not for the fact that they are
innumerable, one would be oflad to eive them the
money they demand, in order to get rid of the
sight of their dusky faces. They are clothed in
rags, and covered with dirt and filth.
Cairo is an interesting city to tourists. It is
walled oft into quarters, deriving their names from
the character and condition of their occupants.
The houses of the poorer classes consist of miser-
able mud hovels, which are generally filthy and
dilapidated. The houses of the wealthy citizens
are generally very elaborate and elegant. A wind-
ing passage leads through an open doorway into
the court, in the centre of which is a fountain
shaded with palm trees. The principal apartment
is generally paved with marble.
Among the important public buildings is the
University of Islam. The students are said to
number 1 1,000, and the majority of them are pre-
Cairo — The Great Pyramid. 193
paring for the priesthood. They are taught
theology, the exposition of the Koran, the tra-
ditions of Mahomet, and are well grounded in civil,
moral and criminal laws With the exception of
professors of literature, few Egyptians are taught
to read and write. The women are very rarely
taught to read. The palace of the Khedive is a
stately and imposing building. The city has 500
mosques, of which the most magnificent is the
Mosque of Sultan Hassan, dating from 1357, and
famous for the grandeur of its porch and cornice.
The Mosque of Tulon was founded in 879, and
exhibits some very ancient specimens of architec-
ture. The citadel was built in 1 166, but has since
been frequently altered. It now contains a palace
and a mosque erected by Mehemet Ali on the site
of Joseph's Hall, in the centre of which is Joseph's
Well, which is sunk in solid rock to the level of
the Nile. Bazaars, temples, shrines and old ruins
are numerous.
Here can be seen people of every nationality,
sect and creed, and the population presents a very
picturesque and interesting appearance. The ma-
jority of the streets are narrow and irregular,
although in the newer portion of the city an effort
has been made to straighten an d widen them.
I next visited the pyramids, which rank among
the grandest wonders of the world. They are
about eight miles from Cairo. The Great Pyramid,
13
194 Around the World.
or Cheops, as it is called, from the name of its
builder, dates from 2,300 years before the birth of
Christ, and was built at an enormous expense. It
is 450 feet high, and covers about twelve acres of
ground. My guide informed me that it required
300,000 men and twenty years to build this vast
structure, and that 100,000 men were employed ten
years in constructing the causeway by which the
blocks of stone were transported from the quarries
to the banks of the Nile, from whence they were
taken in boats to the other side. Here these
pyramids have stood through all the succeeding
centuries, defying the elements, and remaining as
perpetual monuments of the greatness of a by-
gone civilization.
As I desired to make the ascent to the top of
the Cheops, I secured the services of three Arabs
for the sum of two and one-half francs apiece to
aid me in the undertaking. Two of them were
occupied in pulling me up by the hands, and the
third boosted me from behind. The ascent from
the foundation to the top consumed eleven minutes,
including the intervals of rest. From this height
we had in one direction a fine view of the beautiful
valley of the Nile, dotted with groups of trees,
and covered with green fields ; on the other side
lay the Desert of Sahara, — as far as the eye could
reach, a limitless waste of sand.
As I stood gazing out over the country, my
The Sphinx— The Nile. 195
thoughts traveled back over the long line of years
to the time when Joseph was the ruler of Egypt,
and this was the land of the Pharaohs ; and in
imagination I could see the waving fields of corn
which grew in the seven years of plenty. But
these people have long since crumbled into dust,
with only here and there a monument left to mark
the scenes of their former greatness.
Near the Cheops are two smaller pyramids, vary-
ing in height from 250 to 350 feet, but large
enough, however, to do justice to any country out-
side of Egypt. Here, also, is the Sphinx, with its
head turned toward the Nile, carved out of solid
granite rock, and supposed to represent King
Cephren, the builder of the second pyramid. The
soil has accumulated around the base until only
the head and shoulders are visible above the sand.
To my mind, the Sphinx is fully as interesting as
the pyramids.
In traveling in Egypt, one finds that camels and
donkeys are largely used as a means of transporta-
tion by both the stranger and the native, and the
tourist who is desirous of visiting the sights and
objects of interest in the surrounding country has
no difficulty in obtaining an outfit and putting his
desires into execution.
From Cairo we took a trip up the River Nile as
far as the First Cataract. This I very much
enjoyed, as it enabled me to get an insight into the
196 Around the World.
life and customs of the Arabs who live along the
banks of this famous and beautiful stream. I
shall not soon forget these dusky denizens of
Egypt, if for nothing else than their begging pro-
pensities. They were certainly the most intoler-
able nuisance that I had come in contact with dur-
ing my journey. I also visited the island of
Rhoda, a short distance from Cairo. It was on
the southern shore of this island that Pharoah's
daughter discovered the infant Moses. I had
intended, on leaving Cairo, to visit Jerusalem and
its historical surroundings ; but at that time the
cholera was raofinor there, and I thought it best on
that account to give up a journey which otherwise
promised so much of interest and profit. So, with
much regret, I left Egypt without visiting the
sacred city, but still hope to be able to do so
sometime in the future when I have again earned
a recreation.
From Cairo to Suez is a four-hours railway ride
over a level and uninteresting country. Camels
laden with packs, and driven along by their Arab
masters, were the chief sights on this route. The
city of Suez is situated on the Red Sea, at the
southern end of the Suez Canal, and is 140 miles
from Alexandria. It stands in a desert. The
population, which numbers about 12,000, is a mix-
ture of European and Oriental races.
The Suez Canal is eighty-eight miles long, and
Suez Canal and the Red Sea. 197
extends from Port Said, on the Mediterranean, to
Suez, on the Red Sea. It passes through two
lakes, Lake Timsah and the Bitter Lakes. These,
however, were dry before the cutting of the canal.
The channel through the lakes was excavated
partly by hand labor, and partly by dredging ; the
remainder of the canal was cut out through the
desert. This canal is one of the greatest of modern
enterprises, was constructed at a vast expense, and
shortens the distance for ships traveling from West-
ern Europe to Asia 3,751 miles, which is a saving
of thirty-six days on a voyage.
There is a constant stream of vessels passing
through this canal, and a heavy tax is levied on
each vessel for the privilege of going through it.
The stockholders feather in an enormous revenue
from this investment. The city of Suez owes its
prosperity to this canal, as a large number of steam-
ships anchor here, and it is a connecting point for
travelers visiting Africa, Europe, Australia and
India. From the lighthouse a panoramic view can
be had of the long and rugged ranges of mountains
on both the Arabian and African sides of the Red
Sea.
At Suez I embarked on the floating palace
Kiserhind,avesselbeloncrinof to the P. and O. Steam-
ship Company. The anchor was raised, and we
were soon speeding away over the Red Sea. The
first point of historical interest we passed was the
198 Around the World.
place where Moses, leading the children of Israel,
is popularly supposed to have crossed, when pur-
sued by Pharoah. If Pharoah and the Egyptians
were drowned in the Red Sea, they certainly had a
salty grave, as this sea is said to be the saltiest
water in the world, with the exception of the Dead
Sea and the Great Salt Lake. On the Arabian
side is a well called Moses' well. This well is much
frequented by tourists, and the waters are said to
be very bitter. The next point of interest was
Mount Sinai, where Moses received the ten com-
mandments. Aside from its historical interest, this
mountain and its surrounding peaks are impressive
in their sublimity. From a distance it has the
appearance of a long, red streak in the Arabian
mountains, and is apparently barren of vegetation.
The hot rays of the sun, shining upon it, gave it a
smoky, hazy appearance.
The first two days sailing over the Red Sea the
fervid African sun poured down upon us, and the
heat was almost unendurable. The thermometer
registered ninety-five in the shade at 7 a. m. In
my state-room, at midnight, the heat was almost
enough to suffocate me, and the perspiration
poured from every pore. A sea voyage of this
kind is more to be endured than to be enjoyed,
especially in the warm season of the year. I was
told that persons in delicate health had died from
the effects of the heat while crossing this sea. The
Down the African Coast. 199
lady passengers, seated in their easy-chairs, spent
most of their time on the hurricane deck, where
they were protected from the blazing sun by a can-
vas awning. We spent most of our time trying to
catch a breeze, which was about as scarce as green
grass on the Desert of Sahara.
However, on this occasion, the heat was of but
short duration ; for, suddenly, the smooth, calm sea
was swept by a raging storm, which sent most of
the passengers to their berths, and sea-sickness pre-
vailed with the majority. But for once I did not
succumb, and reported regularly at the table when
meal time came around, not always an easy thing
to do in a heavy gale. This storm occurred near
the Gulf of Aden, where, a few months before, two
steamers were swamped, and, with the exception of
one man, all on board were lost. However, acci-
dents are expected to occur here at any time, as
this is a treacherous sea, full of rocks and islands,
where vessels have been stranded, and shipwrecks
are of frequent occurrence, especially during the
monsoon season. In the last few years they
have begun to erect lighthouses on the various
islands, and these beacons of light, shining out
over the dark sea, will prevent much disaster in the
future.
There is not much in the way of scenery along
the shores of the Red Sea. There is generally a
narrow, sandy plain along the coast, backed by
200 Around the World.
ranges of barren mountains, abrupt in outline and
of moderate height. We passed a group of twelve
islands called the Twelve Apostles, which are
named accordingly. As the smallest island is
almost covered up in the sea, and the waters in its
vicinity are consequently more treacherous and
dangerous to vessels, it is therefore called Judas
Iscariot. There are several physical features
about this body of water from which its name may
have been derived, one being the abundance of red
coral, and another the red fish which abound in its
waters. The Red Sea is about 1,200 miles long,
and 200 miles broad at its widest part.
The last object which attracted our attention
as we steamed into the port of Aden was the
Island of Perim, which divides the sea into two
channels, called respectively the Great and Little
Channels. The former is ten miles broad, and the
latter narrow and shallow. This island is a bare
black rock, three miles and a half long, and
probably a little over two miles wide. It is almost
destitute of vegetation, and is without water.
Aden belongs to Great Britain, and is one of the
coaling stations of the P. and O. Steamship Com-
pany. It has a population of about 35,000, and
considerable trade is carried on here in the products
of Arabia, such as coffee, gum, feathers, pearls and
ivory. Coal, for the use of the steamers is its
most valuable import. One of the principal occu-
Arabian Sea — Indian- Ocean. 201
pations of the inhabitants seems to be begging.
In this art I found them not far behind their
Egyptian brethren. They also have trinkets and
jewelry to sell, for which they expect to receive
many times their actual value.
On leaving Aden, we had a long sea voyage
before us, as our next destination was Colombo, in
Ceylon. We passed through the Gulf of Aden
into the Arabian Sea, then out upon the Indian
Ocean, and found traveling much pleasanter on
this body of water than on the sultry Red Sea.
We had on board several passengers of high rank,
among the most noteworthy being Lord Byron,
a relative of the famous poet ; and Lord Car-
rington, the newly appointed Governor of New
South Wales, in Australia. There were also other
lords and noblemen of more or less importance,
who were going as representatives of the English
Government to India and China, and the majority
of these gentlemen were accompanied by their
wives. They all helped to swell the number of
what I believe to be one of the jolliest lot of pas-
sengers that ever sailed in the Oriental seas. We
devised various amusements and entertainments to
fill up the time, and break the monotony of the
slowly passing days.
We traveled at the rate. of about 275 miles a
day, passing Cape Guardafui, on the African coast,
and the Island of Socotra. The country in the
202 Around the World.
vicinity of the cape is said to be inhabited by can-
nibals. In this torrid climate the evening is the
pleasantest part of the day ; for, as soon as the
tropical sun begins to ascend the horizon, the cabin
and state-rooms become uncomfortably warm, and
the majority of the passengers ascend to the hurri-
cane deck, where they are somewhat protected from
the sun's rays by the canvas awning, and try in
various ways to while away the long hours. Some
are engaged in reading or writing; others, in spin-
ning yarns about the past, or telling conundrums.
Some are speculating on the latitude or longitude
we are in, on the depth of the sea or the height of
the barometer; wondering how many miles we
traveled yesterday, and whether we are going to
have a storm to-morrow, etc. And so the days go
by until the novelty wears away and the jokes
grow stale. We begin to tire of new friends, and
long for the old, familiar faces. We weary of the
seemingly boundless waste of water, and sigh for a
glimpse of land. We grow impatient for new
sights and scenes.
On this voyage we had several preachers aboard,
and, as a natural consequence, had religious services
on Sundays. Every Sunday at six bells, or eleven
o'clock, the fire alarm was sounded, and the crew
hurried out in full force, and, for a brief space of
time, the decks were a scene of great confusion.
This, of course, was in every case a false alarm,
Ceylon. 203
but was part of the ordinary routine, as it is neces-
sary to keep the crew well drilled, so that, in the
case of a genuine fire, they will be able to obey
orders promptly and efficiently. Of all the calam-
ities liable to occur at sea, fire is the most to be
dreaded, and every precaution is necessary to be
used to guard against it. Finally, after a voyage
of 3,500 miles from Suez, we entered the harbor of
Colombo.
Here we drew a sigh of relief, and hailed with
joy the termination of a long and somewhat peril-
ous voyage. We had crossed the barren deserts
of Egypt, endured the heat on the Red Sea, and
stood the racket of the monsoon on the Indian
Ocean ; so that now the prospect of landing on
terra firma, and enjoying the shade of the dense
masses of tropical foliage, seemed pleasant indeed.
204 A round the World.
CHAPTER X.
CEYLON AND INDIA.
As soon as the steamer cast anchor, we were
surrounded by natives, each in his rickety little
boat, who swarmed the harbor like sea dogs, and
looked about as rickety as their boats, which are
long and narrow as a canoe. They kept up an
incessant yelling and scrambling, each trying to
secure his share of the passengers to convey to the
shore. In a short space of time, after entrusting
yourself to one of these wretched little boats, you
are landed on shore. For this service the boat-
man will charge you a half a rupee, or twenty
cents. If you do not come up to his expectations
in the matter of an extra fee, you are threatened
with a ducking. Should the boat capsize, it
would have no more effect on the natives, who
are principally Singhalese, than throwing a cork
into the water. They are apparently not born to be
drowned.
On landing, you are importuned by guides and
half-naked beggars, both an unmitigated nuisance
in their way. On the streets you are followed by
venders of curios and cheap jewelry. The latter
Colombo. 205
they try to palm off as genuine jewels, and charge
enormous prices in proportion to their actual
value ; and, should the unwary traveler allow him-
self to be beguiled into purchasing the wares of
the dusky merchants, he will depart from the Island
of Ceylon a sadder and a wiser man.
Colombo is the commercial metropolis, and at
present the capital, of Ceylon, and has a mixed pop-
ulation of over 100,000. The people consist of
descendants of the Portuguese and Dutch, who
have both at different times controlled the island,
Singhalese, Chinese, Arabs, Persians, Parsees and
half-castes of all colors. There are a large num-
ber of English residents, many of them belonging
to noble families. They are mainly dependent on
mercantile or political occupations, although some
of them are planters. This city lies north of the
Equator, in latitude seven. Tropical fruits and all
kinds of vegetation grow luxuriantly. On ap-
proaching the city, one would scarcely believe that
it could contain such a large population, as many
of the native dwellings are merely small huts which
are hidden from view by the overhanging palm and
cocoanut trees.
One of the greatest enterprises of Colombo is
the magnificent breakwater lately constructed by
the British Government, the first stone of which
was laid by the Prince of Wales in 1875. Vessels
can now lie at anchor in safety in this harbor, even
206 Around the World.
when the monsoon is at its worst. Among the
places interesting for a stranger to visit are the for-
tifications, the barracks, the parade ground, the
cinnamon gardens, the museum and the clock
tower. I also visited the prison, and had a conver-
sation with Arabi Pasha, the noted Turkish Gen-
eral who was captured in Egypt by the English,
and sent to Ceylon, where he is detained as a
prisoner. He is a large man, and has a very de-
termined appearance.
In the various countries I had visited, I had
ridden in the vehicles peculiar to each country, and
I was now about to enjoy the privilege of riding
in what, so far, was to be the most novel of them
all. This consisted of a clumsy sort of a cart
drawn by a buffalo, and, of course, driven by a
native driver. I paid my half-rupee to the driver,
boarded the cart, and started to inspect the suburbs
of the city at the rate of about two miles an hour.
This particular buffalo was as docile as a kitten,
and about as swift as a snail. The driver looked a
great deal wilder than the steed. The least I can
say for this expedition is that it made up in novelty
what it lacked in comfort. In Ceylon, buffalo,
native oxen, or cows, generally take the place of
the horse, and are usually driven single in a clumsy
kind of a cart.
The Singhalese are, as a rule, well formed, and,
were it not for their brown skins, good looking.
Native Life in Ceylon. 207
They are more intelligent than any other of the
Oriental races, and most of them have more or less
knowledge of the English language. Ceylon was
the only country in the Orient where I could travel
to good advantage without an interpreter. The
native food is similar to that used by the Chinese,
and cooked and served in about the same manner.
Rice, fish, tea, and different kinds of bread-fruit
are their staple food.
As Ceylon is situated in the tropics, very little
clothing is needed, and very little used by the
natives. The peculiar costume of the women at-
tracts considerable attention from the stranger, and
they resemble our Indian women in their fondness
for brilliant colors. Before you get fairly acquainted
with the feminine style of dress, you will hardly be
able to distinguish the men from the women.
However, if they do not beg, you may be pretty
sure that it is a woman, as the men are nearly all
inveterate beggars. The children have no costume
to attract attention from any one. You can see
them playing or running along the streets entirely
destitute of clothing of any kind. It requires
very little time, however, to become accustomed to
these things, which at first seem so peculiar, and
ere long one ceases to notice them at all.
From Colombo, I visited Kandy. This town is
situated in the interior of Ceylon, seventy-five miles
by rail from Colombo, and over 1,700 feet above
208 Around the World.
the level of the sea. The road between the two
places is remarkable for its beauty, and the won-
derful engineering skill shown in its construction.
On the last thirty miles of this road, there are
eight tunnels, the track winds around the mount-
ain tops, and, with each succeeding mile, the
scenery grows wilder and grander. We pass peak
after peak, until Bible Rock, which towers hundreds
of feet above them all, is left behind, and we find
ourselves nearly 2,000 feet above the level of the
sea, in one of the most picturesque countries in the
world. Here we had a commandinof view of rice
fields, coffee and tea plantations, which are situated
on steep hillsides and in deep gulches, and every-
where could be seen the natives busily engaged in
tilling the soil. As I gazed on this beautiful trop-
ical panorama, I concluded that I had at last found
something to equal in grandeur Cape Horn in the
Sierras, the Alps, and the grand mountain scenery
in Norway.
Kandy is beautifully surrounded by hills ; it is
built around the margin of an artificial lake con-
structed in 1806 by the last king of Kandy, and is
situated in the heart of the coffee and tea planta-
tions. Tropical fruits grow in profusion. Here
can be seen the cinnamon tree, the cocoanut, the
pine-apple and the bread-fruit. This fruit the na-
tives boil, using it largely in the place of bread.
The palm, with its spreading branches, affords a
Buddhist Temple and Relics. 209
fine shade ; and the lantena, a species of berry
fruit, grows rank all over the island.
Among the most striking objects of interest at
Kandy are the temples, of which there are sixteen,
twelve Buddhist and four Brahman. Of the
Buddhist temples probably the one most worthy of
mention is Dalada Malagawa, as it claims to be in
possession of a tooth of Buddha. I was shown the
casket which contains the tooth, which has been
guarded for centuries as a memento of the famous
teacher. Ceylon was converted to Buddhism 500
B. C, and mayproperly be called a Buddhist coun-
try, as the majority of the Singhalese, who number
seventy per cent, of the population, are Buddhists.
When I visited the temples the priests very
politely and willingly showed me their images and
sacred curiosities ; but from the time I entered the
temple and commenced my investigation of the
sacred relics until I left it, the priests followed me
around with musical instruments, which to my mind
resembled cow-bells and tin horns, and beat the
tom-tom until I was almost distracted with the
noise. I was frequently enjoined not to touch the
images or relics, as they were all sacred ; but the
priests themselves, I found, were not too sacred to
beg. After they had got all the pennies they could
possibly squeeze out of me, I was led out through
a succession of iron doors in a grandly ceremonious
style, followed up in the meanwhile by the beating
14
210 Around the World.
of the torn torn. This was a visit that I have no
longing to repeat.
The only hotel in Kandy is the Queen's Hotel,
which is kept partly in European and partly in the
Oriental style. The servants were natives. The
charge at this hotel for accommodations was six
rupees, or three dollars, a day. A native servant
lies down in the hall outside the bedroom, acting, I
suppose, as a body guard. I had my mind and
eyes as much on the guard as on the thieves, from
which he was supposed to be a protection. How-
ever, he expected to be tipped with a few annas for
this service, on my departure from the hotel. This
detestable custom of feeing the servants, which
prevails in France, Italy and Egypt, also extends
to every country in Asia.
The first thing that attracted my attention upon
my arrival in Kandy, was the absence of white men.
The streets were black with natives, who came
swarming around me trying to sell their worthless
trinkets, and, when I positively refused to buy, then
they would begin to beg. I was very much inter-
ested in studying the manners and customs of the
natives and their life, both in town and on the plan-
tations. The problem of life is a serious, and to
me an interesting, study.
Many travelers are afraid to venture into the
interior of the Oriental countries on account of
the treacherv of the natives, and are content with
Interior of Ceylon. 211
visiting the seaport towns, and keeping along the
beaten line of travel. On several occasions I have
had European tourists agree to visit interior places
with me ; but in every instance, when the time
came to start, they would " fly the track," and say
that it was too dangerous, that we might be mur-
dered, etc. For my part, I would about as soon
stay at home as to be obliged to follow closely in
the beaten track of other travelers. I like to di-
gress ; a little danger and uncertainty gives spice
to an adventure. However, when I saw the
timidity with which other travelers viewed these
trips into the interior, I concluded that I deserved
some credit for bravery.
Since 1817 the entire sovereignty of the Island
of Ceylon has been in the hands of the British,
and they controlled the principal forts along the
seaboard as early as 1796. I have noticed that
law and order seem to prevail in all of Great
Britain's possessions, and Ceylon is no exception to
this rule. The natives seem to be perfectly satisfied
with their strict but good government. The gov-
ernment of Ceylon maintains a large number of
public schools, and there are also schools under the
management of the Roman Catholics and other
missionary bodies. I was told that the Singhalese
children are, as a rule, very bright, and learn the
English language quite rapidly. Some of the
wealthier natives send their sons to Oxford to be
212 Around the World.
educated. I had an interview with a Singhalese
graduate who had just returned from that institu-
tion, and had been awarded an important position
by the British Government. Native students are
often given official positions when qualified to fill
them, and are thus encouraged to perfect them-
selves in a knowledge of the English language and
English institutions.
Ceylon is now, like the balance of British India,
on the high road to civilization. Nearly all of the
producers of the islands are English planters, who
employ native servants at very meagre wages.
A sixpence a day is the most that is paid for ten
hours' work. The natives, however, do not seem
to need much money, as they are not at all enter-
prising, and are satisfied with a mere existence.
Food is obtained at a trifling expense, and in this
warm climate much clothing is not needed. These
European planters have rather a fine thing of it, as
they have been enabled to purchase this land at a
very low price, and native labor is so extremely
cheap.
Ceylon is rich in resources, and well able to sup-
port her population of 3,000,000. In addition
to her tropical fruits, rice and coffee plantations,
she has some mineral wealth. In the western and
southern portions of the island, iron exists in large
quantities, and is of excellent quality. In many
places it crops out at the surface in a state of great
Various Resources of the Island. 213
purity. From time immemorial the Singhalese
have been accustomed to work the ore into tools;
and, although the means they employ are rude and
imperfect, they manufacture articles which are
esteemed by them far above those imported from
Europe. The rudely worked Singhalese iron is
equal in temper to the finest Swedish metal. Nat-
ural deposits of common salt are found in many of
the provinces. It is also produced by artificial
means in large quantities.
Extensive pearl fisheries exist off the northern
part of the western coast of Ceylon. The banks
on which these oysters are found are situated at a
distance of from sixteen to twenty miles from the
shore, and extend north and south for many miles.
The fisheries are conducted by the government,
which sells the oysters in heaps of 1,000, as they
are landed from the boats. In some parts of the
island precious stones are met with in great abun-
dance, the most valuable of which are the ruby, the
amethyst, the sapphire, the cat's-eye and the car-
buncle. Moonstones, cinnamon stones and gar-
nets are found in great abundance and variety.
In the hill country every valley and open plain
is made to yield its crop of grain, and the steep
sides of the hills are cut into terraces, on which
are seen waving patches of green rice watered
from the mountain streams. Tobacco is exten-
sively cultivated in various parts of the island.
214 Around the World.
The cultivation of coffee is one of the most impor-
tant industries, as the soil and climate of Ceylon
are capable of yielding an excellent quality of this
product.
Probably the most valuable tree which grows on
this island is the cocoanut palm. The plaited
leaves of this tree serve as plates and dishes, and
as a thatch for the cottage of the native. The
dried leaves are used as torches, and the laro;e leaf-
stalks for garden fences. The trunk of the tree
sawed up is employed for every possible purpose:
its fruit, when green, supplies food and drink; when
ripe, it yields oil. The fibre of the cocoanut is
worked up into a kind of yarn and cordage called
cori, which is admirably adapted for use in salt
water. The trading vessels of this country em-
ploy no other cordage or rope but this, and the
planks of the small vessels are often held together
by cori yarn, without the aid of a single nail.
The following review of the voyage from Egypt
to Ceylon, with some other items, is reprinted from
the Modesto Herald:
LETTER FROM CEVLON.
Special Correspondence to the Herald.
Kandy, Ceylon, Nov. 4, 18S5.
Editor Herald: — A few more lines about my movements in the
Oriental world.
After sight-seeing among the mysteries of Egypt, I resumed my journey
to India, and embarked at Suez on the magnificent steamer Kiserhind,
belonging to the Peninsular and Oriental Steamship Company. The line is
said to be the safest of any line that runs in the Eastern waters. Accidents
Letter from Ceylon. 215
are almost unknown to this line, even in the Bay of Biscay, or on the
treacherous Red Sea, where shi; wrecks have been of frequent occurrence.
The town of Suez, on the south end of the canal, has a mixed population
of 12,000 inhabitants. Here is a general anchorage of steamers where
passengers make connections and selections for their destination. From
Suez we enter the Red Sea. The first two days out the African sun was
almost unendurable. It is hot, without a breeze, the thermometer standing
ninety in the shade at 8 o'clock A. M., and at midnight, in my state-room, I
was soaked with perspiration as though I had come out of a sweat-box.
Under such circumstances a sea voyage is only to be endured, but not
enjoyed very highly. However, this extreme heat was only of short dura-
tion, as we were soon surprised and comforted by a raging storm and breeze
that washed the hurricane decks, and sea-sickness was the result. Many of
the passengers were feeding the fishes; but on this voyage I was not one of
them, as I reported regularly at the table. The storm was near the Gulf of
Aden, where a steamer was swamped last June, and all the lives were lost
but one man. The next day the storm subsided to a usual calmness. The
Red Sea is 1,200 miles long, and from 60 to 175 miles wide, and it is said to
be one of the saltiest bodies of water in the world. The leading historic
objects of interest on the Red Sea coast are Mount Sinai, where Moses
received the law, known as the Ten Commandments, and a well where the
Arabs frequent, and which they call the Well of Moses. The water of this
well is bitter.
Ceylon has a mixed population of 3,000,000, composed of the dusky
races. Kandy, seventy-five miles from Colombo, has many attractions for
the tourist and sight-seer. The city is situated amid rolling hills, and sur-
rounded by coffee plantations and luxuriant gardens of tropical fruits and
trees. The Buddhist Temple is the grandest of all the objects to be seen in
Kandy. The peculiar constructions of the railway and the scenery along
the line from Colombo to Kandy on the upper forty miles are the grandest
in the world. The hill country of Ceylon is bright with the rich green of
tropical plantations, and presents many interesting landscapes.
Notwithstanding the heat in this tropical climate, I have found my
travels enjoyable and interesting, and I have formed many pleasant acquaint-
ances both on land and water. But a long, long letter of credit I have
found to be the most useful companion.
From here I will visit many interesting points in India, thence to Aus-
tralia, and extend my journey to Japan and China. I anticipate arriving in
San Francisco about the 15th of January, and will have traveled in all
about 50,000 miles, and thus have completed the circle around the world.
Osmun Johnson.
216 Around the World.
After extended traveling along the sea-coast and
interior of Ceylon ; after viewing her scenery and
resources, from Peduratallagalla, her loftiest mount-
ain, 8,280 feet high, to the coffee plantations in the
deepest gulches, — I took the steamer at Galle for
Madras, a distance of 700 miles. This city is
situated on the eastern coast of Hindustan, ranks
third among the ports of India in respect to the
number and tonnage of vessels stopping there, and
the value of its exports and imports, and carries on
trade with every part of the world. Madras has
a population of about 500,000, which includes
Europeans, Hindus, Parsees, Mohammedans and
a mixture of many other races.
As this city has no harbor, passengers must be
transferred quite a distance in small surf boats,
which are propelled by natives. As there is a
heavy surf breaking on the shore all the time, the
landing is too dangerous and difficult to be inter-
esting. Here I saw a curious way of transferring
the mail to the shore. Should the vessel enter the
roadstead in a sea so heavy that the small boats
can not effect a landing, the natives tie a pair of
logs together, on which they ride to and from the
boat. The mail ba^s are tied on to their heads.
Should they roll off the logs, it would produce
about the same effect on them that it would on a
duck. Upon landing on shore, you are immedi-
ately surrounded and beset by beggars and guides.
From Madras to Calcutta. 217
Here you see the traveling chair, or two-wheeled
Jin-rik-ishia, which is used in China and Japan.
The natives who propel these vehicles are not be-
hind the best of their Asiatic brethren in extortion
and attempts to fleece the unwary stranger.
The leading manufacturing industries are the
manufacture of silk, lace and Indian shawls. These
goods can be purchased here at astonishingly low
prices, mainly due to the cheapness of labor. As
baggage has to go through the custom house so
frequently, and import duty is imposed on articles
of this kind, it is not best to accumulate too much
at even low figures. One of the principal attrac-
tions in the city is the museum and the menagerie,
where can be seen the wild animals common to
India. Among the places I inspected were the
fortifications, the Government House, the numerous
and imposing mosques, the temples and the native
shops. The lighthouse, which is 125 feet high, is
visible from a ship's deck fifteen miles at sea.
From Madras to Calcutta, the capital of India,
is a distance of 750 miles, and a three-days journey
by steamer. Calcutta is situated on the east bank
of the River Hugh, about eighty miles from the
sea-coast. It has a population of a million souls,
composed of representatives of nearly all the
Asiatic races, and a large number of Europeans.
It derives its name from the village of Kaliehat,
on account of the great mortality which existed
218 Around the World.
there for many years. It was identified in the
mind of the mariner with Golgotha, the place of
skulls. It is now sometimes called the City of
Palaces, a name which it richly deserves, as the
streets, in the European quarter especially, are
lined with magnificent structures. Anions the most
costly buildings are St. Paul's Cathedral and the
Government House, each erected at a cost of about
half a million dollars.
The most interesting of all sights in Calcutta is
the shipping. The Port of Calcutta extends ten
miles along the Hugh ; the average width of the
channel is 250 yards, and it has moorings for 169
vessels. At the railway terminus on the Hourah
side of the river is an immense floating bridge,
which was built at a cost of over a million dollars.
It is constructed on pontons, and affords a con-
tinuous roadway for vehicles and foot passengers.
In the Zoological Gardens can be seen nearly
every kind of animal peculiar to India. The
Botanical Gardens contain all varieties of tropical
plants, and are an attractive place to visit. I also
visited the fortifications, the art galleries and the
museum. I strolled through the native portion of
the city, which is densely populated, and was much
interested in what I saw of Hindu life, also in the
Oriental shops, the temples, shrines and mosques,
of which there are a large number.
The three great religions in India are Buddhism,
Buddhism. 219
Mohammedanism and Brahmanism. Throughout
twenty-two centuries the Brahmans have been the
counselors of the Hindu princes, and the teachers
of the Hindu people, and they were the depository
of the sacred books, the philosophy, the science
and the laws of the ancient Hindu commonwealth.
In the sixth century B. C, Buddha appeared,
and gained many followers. Buddhism has co-
existed with Brahmanism for more than a thousand
years. As a religious founder, Buddha left behind
him a creed which has gained more disciples than
any other system of beliefs in the world. After a
lapse of 2,400 years, it is professed by 500,000,000
people, or more than one-third of the human race.
Mohammedanism was born in Arabia about 600 A.
D , and soon spread over a vast portion of country.
It never gained a strong foothold in Southern
India, but had many followers in the Northern
portion of the country. It is to be hoped that the
day may come when the worship of idols of brass
and stone will be discontinued.
The English, on assuming the government of
India, determined as far as possible to administer
justice in accordance with the existing laws of the
country ; and, so long as the various religious be-
liefs do not conflict with justice and humanity, they
are not interfered with. There are many mission-
aries in India engaged in the work of christianizing
the natives ; but, when you ponder on the fact that
220 Around the World.
there are nearly 250,000,000 of them to convert, it
looks as if it would require the combined forces of
the whole Christian world, and as if scores and
scores would come and go before such a result
would be accomplished. The press and the rail-
ways will be important factors in the work of
civilization.
India is the great granary of Asia, and a formi-
dable rival to the wheat producers of California,
and, in fact, of the whole United States. It has
been conjectured that the total area under cultiva-
tion to wheat in India is equal to the area cultivated
to the same crop in the United States. The
quality of the grain is high enough to satisfy the
English millers, and "Calcutta Club No. 1'
commands a price in Mark Lane not much below
that of the finest Californian cr Australian wheat.
Railway communication is rapidly extending all
over India, and there are already some 13,000
miles of road in operation. Tourists can now
travel by rail from the foot of the Himalaya
Mountains to the southern extremity of Cape
Comorin. India has four great rivers, the Indus,
the Ganges, the Irawadi and the Brahmaputra, all
flowing through broad valleys, and from time imme-
morial the chief means of conveying the products
of the interior to the sea. The competition
naturally existing between river craft and the rail-
roads is conducive to cheap transportation. In
Transportation of Wheat. 221
the delta of the Ganges River, navigation attains its
highest development. The population may be
regarded as half amphibious. In the rainy season,
every village can be reached by water, and every
family keeps its own boat.
Since the construction of the Suez Canal, the
distance from Bombay to Liverpool is much shorter
than from San Francisco to Liverpool by the way
of Cape Horn. This makes a difference in the
cost of transportation, and wheat can be carried
from India to England much cheaper than from
San Francisco to England. This has a correspond-
ing effect on the price. Another fact in favor of
our Indian rivals is that the Hindu cheap labor can
be had on the sea as well as on the land, as Indian
sailors can be employed for eight rupees, or less
than four dollars, per month. However, when the
Panama Canal is finished, the tide will turn in our
favor, our wheat will have the less distance to
travel, and transportation will be proportionately
cheaper. Vessels passing through the Suez Canal
have to pay a heavy tax on the cargo, and, under
the present law, they are required to anchor over
night. This, in most cases, adds one day more to
the journey, so that, when everything is summed
up, and we get our canal, the tonnage from India
to Liverpool will not be so much lower, after all,
than from California.
In addition to this, a California farmer, with his
222 Around the World.
combined harvester, can accomplish more work in
one day with four men than an Indian planter can
with fifty coolies, using the present rude hand im-
plements. There is great opposition to machinery
in India ; for there are millions of laborers strug-
gling for bread, who are willing to work for almost
nothing. They look upon a machine which takes
the place of hand labor as an innovation which
deprives them of a livelihood. The producers in
the Indian agricultural districts are neither so
grasping nor so enterprising as our average Cali-
fornia farmer, and are satisfied with much less.
Everything is cheap ; the tropical produce and the
grain, as well as the labor. Planters hire coolies
to work in the harvest fields at a sixpence per day
apiece, and at less than that on the coffee and tea
plantations and in the rice fields. In the Calcutta
bag factory, wages are but threepence per day.
India has two great drawbacks. One is that
communication with the interior districts is often
attended with great difficulties. As the railroads
are extending their lines in all directions, this disa-
bility will soon be removed. The other is the lia-
bility to drouth. In a country so densely settled
as India, and where the means of communication
are so limited, the failure of a harvest must always
cause much distress. India lies half to the north
and half to the south of the tropic, and, excepting
a small fractional part of a mountainous character,
Famines in India. 223
is subject to great summer heat. Some parts are
regularly visited by rain in season, and other parts
are liable to drouth. One season of drouth is gen-
erally followed by another, and that by a third.
Out of thirty-one famines during the present
century, fifteen succeeded each other in three, and
sixteen in two, consecutive years, while intervals
between them varied from two to ten years. The
country has, of course, always been subject to fam-
ines ; and history relates how in 1031 the Emperor
Shah Jehan, and in 1631 the Emperor Aurungzebe,
tried to mitigate their desolating effects without
much success. Within the time of the present
generation several very severe famines have taken
place. From the year 1848 to 1878 the abnormal
deaths which occurred in years of famine did not
fall short of ten millions. It cost the state, to re-
lieve the starving population during this period,
not less than 21,250,000 pounds sterling, exclusive
of several millions in loss of revenue. Irrigation
and railways have done much to remedy the evil.
India is a great country, and possesses a great
variety of resources. British India has a total area
of about 1,500,000 square miles, and a population
of 240,000,000. Of the area, nearly 600,000 square
miles, with a population of 50,000,000, belong to
the native states not under British administration;
while the remainder, 900,000 square miles, with
190,000,000 people, is under direct British rule.
224 Around the World.
As my journey around the world was a long and
somewhat tortuous one, my time for visiting India
was soon exhausted. Had I been satisfied to fol-
low in the usual track of travelers, and taken the
most direct route to China, I would only have had
to travel 1,700 miles in going from Calcutta to
Hong-Kong; but I was ambitious to visit Aus-
tralia, though by going in this roundabout way it
lengthened the distance something- over 10,000
miles. I wavered a little when I thought of the
long and monotonous sea voyage, and meditated
on the fact that it was the typhoon season of the
year. Still, by taking the longer route, I could
visit Australia and New Zealand, skirt the shores
of New Guinea, take in the Philippine Islands, and
see the extensive coral reefs which exist in the
Southern waters. I should sail over many seas,
and see many sights that would be missed by going
the other way ; so I concluded that the pleasures
of this trip would overbalance its discomforts ; and,
bidding good-bye to my friends and traveling com-
panions, as they were going to continue on the
direct route to Hong-Kong, I promised, if the
typhoon did not get the best of me on the China
Sea (this sea is never known to behave itself), to
meet them there some time in the future. I em-
barked on the steamer Enos at Calcutta for
Colombo, a distance of 1,400 miles over the Bay
of Bengal.
The Indian Ocean. 225
CHAPTER XI.
THE VOYAGE OVER THE INDIAN OCEAN.
Colombo is the junction of the P. and O. Steam-
ship Company, where the various routes diverge
for Australia, China, Japan or India. On leaving
here, we had a sea voyage of 5,000 miles before
us ere we could reach the Australian shore. On
account of the extreme heat in these tropical coun-
tries, white linen clothes are worn almost entirely,
and heavy clothing is of very little use. As a clean
suit is needed every day, one has to have a plenti-
ful supply. So, before starting out on my journey,
I had to see that my clothes were washed and in
good order for the trip, as this would be my last
opportunity before reaching Australia. This wash-
ing process is a somewhat interesting one to look
at, but very hard on the clothes. Every article
undergoes a vigorous pounding with a long stone,
and, if the garments are not of the strongest ma-
terial, they are unable to stand this ordeal, and
new ones become a necessity. The expense for
washing, however (outside of the wear and tear of
the material), is of small consequence, one penny
apiece being the regular price charged in all parts
of Asia for washing and ironing shirts.
It may here again be mentioned that it is well
15
226 Around the World.
for tourists to be careful about investing in finery
or curiosities as presents for their friends, as such
articles are all subject to import duty. Packages
containing ammunition a-nd liquors can not be
shipped as baggage, and cases of these articles
must be accompanied by a declaration that they
contain no explosive matter. The principal lines
making monthly trips from Europe to India and
China are the P. and O., the East India Steamship
Company, and a French line called Messageries
Maritimes. These are all reliable and popular
lines, and make regular trips and connections by
the way of Suez and the Red Sea ; but between
Colombo and Australia the P. and O. steamers are
the ones which run the most regularly.
Two days out from Colombo we crossed the line
of the Equator. Here we felt the heat intensely,
especially when on deck. For several days we had
the eastern trade wind against our course, and prog-
ress was slow, 250 miles a day being an average
run. This portion of the Indian Ocean is desti-
tute of islands or any object of interest, and there
is nothing to be seen but the waste of waters, and
the sky overhead ; so the passengers were thrown
entirely upon their own resources for amusement.
At dawn of day we generally had our baths, a daily
bath being an absolute necessity in this warm
climate. A custom which to me seemed somewhat
singular prevails on steamers which sail in these
waters. In the early morning the ship's officers
Crossing the Equator. 227
and the passengers promenade the hurricane deck
barefooted, and in their light morning clothes.
They do this in order to get the full benefit of the
cool morning air before the sun rises. They keep
up a lively pace for about half an hour, and then
retire below, where coffee and sandwiches are served.
About 2 p. m. everybody on board, except the sailors
on watch, retire to their rooms for an hour's sleep,
and at four o'clock coffee and sandwiches are a^ain
served. In addition to this, we had the regular
meals served at the regular hours.
On this passage we had on board a jolly lot of
Indian planters, from whom I gained much valuable
information in regard to terrace farming, the tropi-
cal staples ; seeding and harvesting, and the cost
of each ; the yearly average of the crops, the prin-
cipal exports, and the crops from which the largest
returns may be expected. I was told that the cul-
tivation of tea must largely take the place of coffee ;
as, next to wheat, the former is the most profitable
staple of India. Well, what you don't hear aboard
one of these passenger steamers is not worth hear-
ing, as you mingle with pilgrims of every clan and
from every land, hearing a great variety of
languages, and seeing representatives of nearly
every industry and profession. Every day's travel
took us farther away from the Equator ; and, with
a change of latitude, came a perceptible modifica-
tion of the temperature, making the remainder of
the voyage much more endurable and comfortable.
228 Around the World.
CHAPTER XII.
AUSTRALIA.
After we had been out twelve days, without any
especial incident to record except the head wind
and the extreme heat, we sighted Cape Leeuwin,
the first landmark of Australia; and on the thir-
teenth day we cast anchor in King George's Sound,
a distance of nearly 4,000 miles from Colombo.
Here w r e remained twenty-four hours, which gave
us all an opportunity to go on shore and try terra
firma once more. We were all very much tanned
and about half cooked by the heat of the tropics,
and quite appreciated the change after being tossed
about by the restless deep for so many days. The
town of Albany, on King George's Sound, has a
population of 2,000, all Europeans. This town is
situated on the southwestern extremity of Australia,
has no particular object of interest worthy of men-
tion, and is surrounded by low, barren hills, which
appear unfit for cultivation. The town chiefly
exists upon the traffic from the sea. The best
feature of Kino- George's Sound is that it affords a
o o
commodious and secure harbor, which could accom-
modate a much larger fleet than is likely to be
Australia. 229
needed to guard English interests and subjects in
this part of the world.
It seemed pleasant indeed to be in a civilized
country, and see white people once more instead
of the dusky heathen we had left behind in Egypt,
Africa and India. We could now see churches
and stores, instead of idols, shrines, and bazaars
filled with trifles. Here were to be seen a lar^e
number of enterprising, refined and well-dressed
people, instead of the lazy and half-naked Oriental
races, and we could now tread on wide and well-
paved streets instead of narrow and filthy Oriental
lanes. Here we could hear church bells rinoqna-
out the summons to divine worship, instead of
witnessing the heathen clapping his hands and
bowing his knees before temples and idols; and
we all enjoyed very much the life and bustle inci-
dent to the transaction of business in this prosper-
ous little city inhabited by a civilized people.
Thus far the greater part of my traveling had
been done on English steamships, on English
possessions, and in English waters. This govern-
ment seems to be the power behind the throne in
nearly all quarters of the globe. Malta, Aden,
India, Ceylon, Australia, Hong-Kong and many
other places and islands are in the hands of the
British. They have standing armies everywhere;
their flag flies on every sea, and from men-of-war
in every port ; their fortifications are numerous ;
230 Around the World.
and their soldiers and officers, on land and water,
can be counted by the million. England is often
called the " Mistress of the Seas," but maintains
this supremacy at an enormous expense.
Our next destination was Port Adelaide, 1,000
miles distant from Albany. We soon entered the
Great Australian Bight, and were out of sight of
land for two days. After three days' sailing, we
anchored at Port Adelaide, which is seven miles
distant from the city of Adelaide, and were put
on shore by a steam tender. The harbor at this
port is safe and commodious ; but there is a bar at
its mouth which prevents large vessels from enter-
ing, the depth of the water varying with the tide
from eight to sixteen feet. With a few exceptions,
the harbors on the coast of Australia are shallow,
which is a great drawback to the prosperity of
many of the seaports. In case of a severe gale,
vessels need a safe harbor where they will not be
exposed to the fury of wind and wave.
Adelaide is a beautiful city, situated on both
sides of the River Torrens, which is spanned by
several bridges. The two portions of the town
are called North and South Adelaide. South
Adelaide is the commercial centre of the town,
and lies on a very level plain on the left bank of
the river. North Adelaide, the smaller portion of
the town, contains the chief private houses, and
occupies a gentle slope on the right bank of the
City of Adelaide. , 231
river. Adelaide is the capital of the British colony
of South Australia, and of the county of the same
name. Its streets are broad, and regularly laid out.
Among the most important public buildings are
the Governor's house, the government offices, the
Post-Office and the theatre. The principal places
worth visiting are the Botanical Garden and the
public grounds, called the Park Lands, which con-
tain over 1,900 acres.
Australia is the largest island in the world, — so
large that it is often called a continent. It is 2,500
miles in length from east to west, and 1,950 miles
in breadth from north to south, contains an area of
about 3,000,000 square miles, and has a seaboard of
8,000 miles. As it is situated in the Southern
Hemisphere, the seasons are just the reverse of
what we are accustomed to. June is a winter
month, and crops are harvested in December and
January. The cities in Australia are of modern
construction, and similar to those in America.
- There are no temples, ruins or shrines, and the
aborigines of this country, like the North Ameri-
can Indians, live in rude huts, which are either
bowers formed of the branches of the trees, or are
made of piled logs loosely covered with grass or
bark. In the southeastern part of the island some
of the huts are larger and more substantial. The
numbers of the native Australians are steadily
diminishino- ; small remnants of the race exist in
232 ^Around the World.
each province, and a few tribes wander over the
interior. It is estimated that there are not more
than 80,000 of these aborigines left on the con-
tinent.
The sea-coast, except on the northern and north-
western shore, is wonderfully devoid of inlets from
the sea. Along the entire line of the eastern
coast there extends a succession of mountain
ranges, and on the western coast there is a series
of low-lying hills. Off the southern coast of
Australia the waters of the Indian Ocean com-
mingle with those of the Pacific. I would have
needed no other proof than this, had I been skep-
tical on the subject, to convince me that the earth
was surely round. I had been traveling east for
many months, and now was back in the waters of
an ocean whose waves washed the shores of my
home in the far-off West.
From Adelaide to Melbourne is a distance of
550 miles, which can be traveled either by rail or
steamer. Melbourne is the most populous city in
Australia, and is situated at the head of the large
bay of Port Philip, on the northern bend, which is
called Hobson's Bay. The spacious, land-locked
harbor of Port Philip was discovered in 1802, by
Lieutenant Murray. The city of Melbourne occu-
pies a space three miles inland, on the Yarrah
River ; but the suburbs extend along the shores of
the bay for ten miles.
The Typical Cabman. 233
The entire absence of guides and half-naked
coolie beggars was to me a very pleasant change.
Instead of being surrounded by these nuisances
upon my arrival at the depots or wharves, I was
met by the typical English cabman, his coat glit-
tering with brass buttons, and his head adorned
with a~ plug hat. He was indeed a gorgeous-
looking individual as he sat on the top of his han-
som, to which a steed of the Clyde breed was
attached. The hansom is a peculiar conveyance.
There is no chance for quarreling with any one
while riding, as the coachman sits on top, and there
is only room for one passenger inside, and that*
one must not be an overgrown one. This inside
space fitted me as snugly as if I had sent my
measure ahead. For the privilege of riding in one
of these vehicles, you pay the sum of one shilling
per mile, if you make your bargain beforehand ;
if not, you will probably have to pay double that
amount. Extortion seems to be the rule with cab-
men and guides of all races and colors, and in the
cities of all countries, from San Francisco (travel-
ing eastward) to the shores of Japan.
Melbourne is the capital of the colony of Vic-
toria, and is the most populous city in Australia,
offering, perhaps without exception, the most strik-
ing illustration of the aptitude of the Anglo-Saxon
race for colonization. Until the year 1835 no
white man had ever made his habitation there ;
(234)
Melbourne. 235
and now the spot where the first settler made his
home in the wilderness is the centre of a great city,
which is ten miles in length, six in breadth, covers
an area of 45,000 acres, and has a population of
283,000 people. This city is beautifully located.
It is built on nearly level ground, slightly rising
to the centre from every direction, giving it an
easy slope for drainage ; consequently it is a
healthy city as well as a beautiful one.
At present there is a strong rivalry between
Melbourne and Sydney, each contending for the
honor of being the chief city of Australia. Mel-
bourne has at present 25,000 more people than
Sydney, and Victoria Colony contains some of the
best agricultural land in Australia ; there are also
extensive sheep ranges, and some of the richest
gold mines of the country, in the vicinity of Mel-
bourne. Sydney, by virtue of its position, is prob-
ably destined to be the greater commercial city of
the two, as it has one of the finest and most spa-
cious harbors in the world. The surrounding
country, however, is not so rich as that around
Melbourne ; it is thickly timbered, too hilly to be
much of an agricultural country, but is a fine pas-
toral region, and affords an extensive range for
cattle. In the near distance is situated the town
of Newcastle, which is surrounded by extensive
coal fields. The quality of this coal is said to be^
equal to that of Great Britain for most purposes,
*
236 Around the World.
and it is largely used by steamships navigating the
Pacific and Chinese waters.
I have become so interested in these compari-
sons, that I fear I am digressing. I will now return
to Melbourne, and give a little further description
of the city and its surroundings. The climate in
the vicinity is considered unusually fine. The only
drawback is the occasional hot winds, which blow
from the north for two or three days at a time, and
raise the temperature until it is uncomfortably
warm ; but by far the greater proportion of the
time the sky is clear and the air mild and dry. On
days when the wind blows, I have seen the tem-
perature vary from 60 to 1 20 degrees. I had my
best view of Melbourne and its environs from
Flagstaff Hill. Its numerous suburbs surrounded
the city in all directions ; in the distance, on three
sides, were ranges of hills, and on the fourth the
waters of Hobson Bay could be seen sparkling in
the sunlight.
Notwithstanding its size, Melbourne is by no
means a crowded city ; the streets are all ninety-
nine feet wide, and parks, squares and gardens are
so numerous that it occupies an area nearly one-
half as great as that of London. The two princi-
pal streets are Burke and Collins, — the first the
busiest street in Melbourne, the other containing
-.the most fashionable shops. The buildings which
line these streets are of uniform height, and sub-
Public Buildings, Parks and Gardens. 237
stantially built; but you find no such magnificent
structures as can be seen in the business portion of
San Francisco, nor does there seem to be the same
amount of activity and bustle. I had quite an
argument on this subject with one of Melbourne's
enterprising citizens who had been deluding him-
self with the idea that his city was far ahead of
San Francisco. I quietly disabused his mind of
this idea, and informed him that it would have to
grow with all its might for the next twenty-five
years before it would be as far advanced as our
Metropolis of the Golden West.
Among the objects of interest to be seen in Mel-
bourne are monuments of Burke and Collins, two
of Australia's most famous explorers ; the barracks,
the Parliament Houses, the Custom House, and
the Town Hall, which will seat rfearly 3,000 peo-
ple. In this hall is a colossal organ, on which the
city organist performs two afternoons in each week,
the public being admitted at a nominal charge.
The parks and public gardens are extensive and
handsome. The Royal Park contains about 600
acres, and is timbered with gum trees. About
thirty acres in the centre of this park are beauti-
fully laid out, and contain a zoological collection.
The Yarrah Park, which is about 300 acres in extent,
contains the leading cricket grounds. Want of
space will prevent me from elaborating further on
interesting features of Melbourne.
238 Around the World.
I then visited the western portion of the col-
ony of Victoria, and saw some good agricultural
country. Here the wheat is harvested with strip-
pers of three-horse power ; but larger machines
are in course of construction. By these machines
the wheat is stripped of the heads. On the long
stubble which remains, vast numbers of sheep are
pastured, and they are often brought, for this pur-
pose, a distance of several hundred miles from
the interior. Great attention is paid to sheep
farming, as this is one of the leading industries of
Australia. The price of labor I found to be much
the same as in California, six shillings, or $1.50,
per day, being the usual wages paid in the harvest
season.
The two principal inland towns were Sandhurst
and Belrat. Sandhurst is built on the exhausted
part of the old gold fields of Bendigo. Besides
gold mining, there are quite a number of local
industries, including coach building, brewing and
iron casting. There are nearly 7,000 miners em-
ployed in the Sandhurst district. Belrat has 181
mines, some of them 1,000 feet deep; and one in
particular, known as the Pandora, is 2,000 feet
deep. If the Pacific coast wants to beat those
figures, I am afraid she will have to cross the
Sierras to the Comstock, in Nevada. Silverton is
the principal town in the dividing range, or barrier,
where there are rich silver mines. The Belrat and
SJiecp Farming. 239
Hillman districts contain the richest mines in the
colonies. Millions of pounds of the precious ore
have been taken from these mines, and they are
still worked at a great profit by the fortunate
owners.
After inspecting the gold fields, I visited some of
the sheep plains, or sheep runs, where they count
their flocks by the hundreds of thousands. I was
told that these sheep runs contain from thirty to a
hundred thousand acres, and this amount of land
is generally owned and controlled by one man.
Many of these runs I found to be rocky, and, with
the exception of the timber, apparently barren of
vegetation. It seemed to me that there were two
sheep to every blade of grass. This Australian
grass must be exceedingly nutritious, or such a
multitude of sheep could not manage to subsist.
However, at the time that I visited Australia, there
had been four dry seasons in succession, and all
kinds of stock were in a starving condition, partic-
ularly in New South Wales and Queensland, where
the water-courses had run dry. In fact, most of
the inland Australian streams dry up early in the
season, as there are no rainy regions or snow-clad
mountains in the interior to feed the rivers.
Drouths are of common occurrence, and the rain-
fall is very light, probably owing to the low, flat
character of the country, and the scarcity of high
mountain peaks along the coast to condense the
240 Around the World.
rain clouds, which are consequently blown across
the country without distilling their moisture. I
heard the question of constructing reservoirs, to
catch the water in the rainy season, discussed in
many districts. In Texas they have cisterns for
rain water, and catch all they can, keeping it to use
in time of drouth
The interior of Australia I found to be thickly
timbered with large gum trees, the majority of
them destitute of leaves, and some of bark. In
many places they were ringed, and left to die and
rot down. This was to make openings for farmers,
probably for another generation, when the heavens
will distribute moisture with a more liberal hand
than at present. However interested I may have
been in some of the resources of Australia, I was
not favorably impressed with it as an agricultural
country, not only on account of the frequency of
the dry seasons, but because of the character of
the soil, which is red and rolling, and has the ap-
pearance of being heavy to cultivate. It looked to
me as if farming with the expectation of raising a
profitable crop would be very much like buying the
cat in the bag. I found, however, that the Aus-
tralian residents who had never been in any other
great wheat-producing country looked on the mat-
ter in an entirely different light, and from a more
favorable point of view. Probably I was not an
unprejudiced observer, as I had been for so many
Various Resources. 241
years a farmer in California, a country in which
crops of all kinds grow to the acme of perfection.
I also visited several stock farms. I found the
cattle to be of enormous size, but was not favorably
impressed with the appearance of the horses, which,
to my mind, were disproportionately formed,
although they were said to be descendants of the
famous Clydesdale stock.
Take it all in all, Australia is a great and pro-
gressive country, and has a glorious prospect in
the near future. Her resources are many and vari-
ous, and, where she is inferior in one branch of in-
dustry, she has others which more than compensate
for the difference. Australia is the greatest wool-
growing country in the world, and has more coast
line than any other. Her commercial interests are
enormous, her coal fields are inexhaustible, and she
is rich in minerals of every description. Copper,
tin, antimony, mercury, platina, bismuth, iron,
galena, quicksilver and shale, which yields kerosene
oil, are all found in Australia, and she is second
only to the United States in the extent of her gold
and silver mines. In the last few years pearl fish-
ing has become quite an industry in Australian
seas, and has been carried on with considerable
success. Good pearls are found in Shark's Bay,
especially in an inlet called Useless Harbor; mother
of pearl shells are fished at many points along the
western coast, and an important pearl fishery has
16
242 Around the World.
been established in Torres Strait, on the coast of
Oueensland.
After thoroughly acquainting myself with the
resources of Victoria Colony, I returned to Mel-
bourne, where I took the train for Sydney, the
second largest city in Australia, and the capital of
New South Wales. The distance between these
two cities is 575 miles; the railway fare, four
pounds, or about twenty dollars ; the time occupied
in the journey, twenty-two hours. The railway
system in the southern hemisphere is on the same
plan as that of Europe and India. I can never
cease to express my contempt for the construction
of the cars, — the same inconvenient, uncomfort-
able compartments, where there is scarcely room
enough to swing a cat. Here eight passengers are
wedged in, the door locked, and we are left with-
out water or conveniences of any kind until we
arrive at the stations, which in this country are
often few and far between, as the road runs
through new and remote districts. I suppose I
will again have to admit that I am prejudiced in
favor of the American system, which I consider
the most luxurious mode of traveling in the world.
In these cars, which are much larger and more
comfortable, the proud, brass-buttoned conductor
reigns supreme ; you can take items on the physi-
ognomy of a hundred people if you so desire,
instead of half a dozen ; you have a stove to keep
Paying for Learning. 243
you warm in winter, and ice water to cool your
parched throat in summer ; and the windows are
so constructed, that, if you feel disposed, you can
raise them and put your head out to view the
heavens or any earthly object.
In Eastern countries you are always surrounded,
on arriving at stations, by porters who are always
more than willing to anticipate your wants, and
who desire to be remunerated accordingly. If the
tourist does not wish to pay for learning their
sharp practices, as I have done, he will give them
a few pence, and they, in return, will lift their hats,
favor you with a low bow and a sickly smile, and
let you depart in peace, while they stand in wait
for the next victim. In Australia, as in Europe,
young women superintend the bars and lunch
counters, and, at the large stations, seven or eight
of these blushing damsels can be seen busily en-
gaged in attending to the wants of the hungry
and thirsty travelers. The price of a glass of ale
or a cup of coffee is threepence, and sandwiches
are furnished in proportion to the appetite of the
individual.
There is very little agricultural land on the route
between Melbourne and Sydney ; but there is a
large extent of country where coal abounds, and
the greater portion of the remainder is devoted to
grazing purposes. While travelirig over this road,
I talked with a stockman who owned 100,000 head
244 Around the World.
of sheep, which were stationed in different places
on his run. In New South Wales the coal-bearing
strata cover a very large area in several detached
portions, the largest of which probably exceeds
12,000 miles. In the vicinity of Newcastle, where
the principal workings are, the coal seams vary
from three to thirty feet in thickness, sixteen seams
above three feet beino- known. It is estimated
that the coal strata in Oueensland cover an area of
24,000 square miles. Very little has been done
toward their development, the districts in which
they occur being too far from the settled portions
of the country.
This route is not diversified enough to be pictur-
esque, and is entirely devoid of attractive scenery.
There are no mountains and dales, the country is
low, and in many places the soil is stony. There
are very few high mountain peaks in Australia, the
highest being Mount Kosciusko, which has an alti-
tude of over 6,000 feet. The principal attraction
aloncj the line of this road was the dried gum
trees which dotted the country, some of them of
immense size. The gum trees form the principal
timber of Australia. There are 400 species of
eucalyptus, or gum; the blue, the red, the white, the
spotted, etc. They grow to an immense size, and
live to be many hundred years old. The most of
them shed their bark instead of their leaves, and
some have neither leaves nor bark. Other species
Sydney. 245
of timber are the white box, the iron bark, rose-
wood, sandalwood, tulip-wood and satin-wood.
These latter are used by cabinet makers for orna-
mental work.
Sydney, the capital of New South Wales, is a
bustling commercial city, situated on rolling hills
similar to those on which Rome is built. It lies
on the harbor of Port Jackson, about four miles
from its entrance. This harbor is completely
landlocked, and the largest vessels can come close
to the wharves, thus saving much inconvenience in
loading and unloading vessels, and in transferring-
passengers from the ship to the shore. For my
part, I can cheerfully dispense with the little row
boat which is used to convey passengers from the
ship's side to the landing, as I do not enjoy the
drenching which one is frequently treated to in this
process of transportation The extensive dry
docks and ship yards at Sydney furnish every
facility for repairing vessels. The port is well
defended by several forts and batteries. The har-
bor is very attractive, being fourteen miles long;
and the coast very irregular, with numerous small
bays and promontories, which render it very pic-
turesque.
This bay was discovered and the town of Sydney
founded in i 788 ; but for twenty-five years the set-
tlers of the colony of New South Wales were only
acquainted with a strip of country fifty miles wide,
246 Around the World.
between the Blue Mountains and the sea-coast ; for
they scarcely ever ventured far inland from the
inlets of Port Jackson and Botany Bay. The
climate of Sydney is salubrious ; more rain falls
here than in the southern colonies. It has a popu-
lation of about 250,000, mostly Europeans, the
greater proportion of them being English immi-
grants. These immigrants are constantly pouring
into the Australian colonies. Every steamerwhich
arrives from England is filled with people who are
seeking home and fortune in this far-off country.
With the constantly increasing facilities for travel,
every quarter of the globe will soon cease to be
remote.
A new land act has recently been passed which
is intended to enable immigrants to settle on small
pieces of land, and to give them ample time to pay
for their farms, but to discourage and prevent the
acquisition of large pastoral estates. Out of
17,000,000 acres settled under the old law, only
3,000,000 are in the hands of bona-fide settlers.
The remaining 14,000,000 are in the hands of the
sheep kings. By having all the favorable spots
that give access to water taken up by his servants
and tools, the squatter becomes practically the
owner of his rim, which he can extend to any limit
in the same way. By this fraudulent device, great
estates of hundreds of square miles have been
acquired.
Public Buildings and the Suburbs. 247
"S
The loftiest eminence in Sydney is Flagstaff
Hill, where a magnificent view can be had of the
city, its suburbs and the harbor ; and one can even
see the Pacific Ocean. Among the principal attrac-
tions in this city are the Government buildings,
with their extensive ornamental grounds. From
this point the north shore and the Balmain can be
seen to good advantage. Macguire street is lined
by rows of fine residences on one side, and by gov-
ernment property on the other, is a favorite prom-
inade, and one of the gayest thoroughfares in the
city. The Museum, the Public Library, St. Mary's
Cathedral, and the City Infirmary are all extensive
institutions. In the suburbs are the City Park, the
Zoological and Botanical Gardens and Belmore
Park, all interesting places to visit. One thing
that struck me peculiarly is the fact that the flowers,
both the cultivated varieties and the wild flowers,
seem to be entirely devoid of fragrance.
The most aristocratic quarter is Potts' Point and
Vermalon, where the residences may be considered
a good second to those on Nob Hill, in San Fran-
cisco. The most opulent citizens of Australia re-
side here. The leading hotels are the Pettis Hotel
and the Royal, in St. George street, where you
can get fair meals and a good bed for twelve
shillings a day. Pitt street and St. George street,
the main thoroughfares of the city, have a carriage-
way sixty feet wide, and are lined with handsome
248 Around the World.
shops and churches and other public and private
edifices. Business of every description is transacted,
and, from seven in the morning until eleven at
night, they are thronged with people.
New South Wales was for many years a penal
settlement, and the agitation on this subject has
been the only serious cause of conflict between the
colony and the mother country. It ended by the
latter yielding, and transportation was somewhat
reluctantly abolished. Sydney is well situated to
control the commerce of the Southern Pacific
Ocean, occupying a position corresponding to that
of San Francisco on the Northern Pacific. It has
a large inter-colonial trade, and also carries on an
extensive commerce with the United States. It is
destined, by virtue of its situation, to become one
of the great seaports of the world.
My next move was from Sydney to Paramatta, a
town thirteen miles distant, on the Paramatta
River. This was an exceedingly pleasant trip, as
it gave me an opportunity of viewing the pictur-
esque scenery of the harbor, the islands, and the
beautiful gardens on the Paramatta River. Para-
matta is an old town, and of little importance.
Here I took the cars for the Blue Mountains, in
the neighborhood of which the grandest scenery of
Australia is found. The railroad which runs over
these mountains is called the Zigzag Railway, and is
constructed on the plan of the letter N. The first
The Blue Mountain Zigzags. 249
zigzag, called the Little Zigzag, is thirty-five miles
from the Big- Zigzag. The cars travel backward
and forward before completing the ascent of the
mountain, which is called the Lapstone Hill. The
scenery is grandly picturesque, and would do credit
to the Alps. From this hill we could look over
the broad valleys into deep gulches, and could fol-
low with our eyes the windings of the rivers. I
must not neglect to mention, that, in this zigzag, a
terrible railroad accident occurred six years ago ;
two trains collided, and many passengers were
killed.
After arriving at the summit, we followed a
broken chain of mountains for many miles. All
along the line of- the road the country is thickly
timbered, and to the left we could see far down
into the valley at the foot of the mountains. The
most elevated points on this route were Mount
Ketoomba, which rises to a height of 3,349 feet
above the sea-level ; Went Falls, situated at an
altitude of 2,856 feet ; and Mount Victoria, which is
3,422 feet high. This elevated region is a popular
resort for Sydney people, who come up here a few
weeks in December, when the heat is most intense,
to cool off. The climate is said to be so healthful,
that, except in case of accidents, people never die.
Continuing our journey eastward, we soon arrive
at the Big Zigzag. This is constructed on a steep
incline of 800 feet, in the form of two N's. On
250 Around the World.
emerging from one of the tunnels through which
we pass, we overlook five tracks, running nearly
parallel with each other. In addition to the
beauties of the scenery, there are numerous caves
which the tourist can visit. Of these the Imperial
Cave is the most important, and the most fre-
quented by visitors.
After rusticating a few days in the Blue Mount-
ains, I crossed over to Burke, and enjoyed the
hospitality of the people in the interior of New
South Wales. Then, having seen all I cared to of
the inland sights, I recrossed the mountains to
Sydney. The principal resources in the Blue Mount-
ains are the hunting grounds and the vast coal
fields, which extend over a space of 200 miles to
Newcastle. I was now fully convinced that the
Southern Hemisphere had at least one wonder
which could compare with the Yellowstone Park,
the Alleghanies, Yosemite, Switzerland, or the
Kandy Mountains, in Ceylon, — places which should
be visited by all who wish to make a thorough tour
of the globe, no matter how much pressed for time.
New Zealand. 251
CHAPTER XIII.
NEW ZEALAND.
Before leaving for China, I concluded to visit
New Zealand, 1,281 miles distant from Sydney, so
embarked on the regular mail packet Oakland.
New Zealand consists of two large islands, called
respectively North Island and South Island, of
another smaller one called Stewart Island, and of a
number of smaller islands and islets. New Zealand
was discovered by a Dutch navigator in 1642 ; but
he did not land there. Captain Cook, in 1769, was
the first European who set foot on its shores. He
visited the country several times, and circumnavi-
gated the coast in the course of his three voyages
of discovery, exploring and partly surveying the
general outline. He introduced several useful ani-
mals and plants, including pigs, fowls, potatoes,
turnips and cabbages. From Captain Cook's final
departure, in 1777, until 18 14, little is known of
the country, except that, owing to the cannibalism
and ferocity of the natives, it was a terror to
sailors.
In 1 8 14 a church mission was established at the
Bay of Islands, which was followed by others, and
252 Around the World.
both Protestant and Roman Catholic Missions
were formed. In the course of the following thirty
years the entire native population was converted,
nominally at least, to Christianity. There was, of
course, in after years a considerable relapse ; but
cannibalism ceased, and the barbarous nature of
the race became softened, and capable of civiliza-
tion ; so, as a whole, the results of the missionary
teaching were great and permanent.
The Islands of New Zealand have, since 1840,
been a colony of Great Britain. It was not colo-
nized in the usual manner, around one common
centre ; but there were formerly six distinct settle-
ments, — Auckland, Wellington, Canterbury, New
Plymouth, Nelson and Otago. For some years
communication between them was irregular and in-
frequent. Three provinces are each subdivided
into counties. The residence of the Governor is
at Wellington, which is the seat of government.
The government and Legislature have always been
disposed to favor native interests, the right of the
natives to their lands have always been fully recog-
nized, and no land has been taken from them with-
out their consent, except in the case of some con-
fiscated lands which were taken under the authority
of a special law from rebellious tribes.
The Governor is appointed by the Crown. The
Legislative Council, or upper house, consists of
fifty members who are appointed for life by the
Government and Education. 253
Governor. The House of Representatives consists
of ninety-five members elected by the people.
Four members of the House must be Maoris,
elected by their own race, and they arc also en-
titled to several members in the Council. The
duration of the House is for three years; but it is
subject to re-election whenever the Governor dis-
solves the assembly. Education is free and com-
pulsory, with certain exceptions, for children be-
tween the aees of seven and thirteen. Religion is
not allowed to be taught in any of the schools.
The country is, to a great extent, mountainous,
but is interspersed with fertile valleys and exten-
sive plains, where prosperous farms can be seen
growing crops of wheat and grain of all kinds.
Hops are extensively raised in the Province of
Nelson, which is frequently called the Garden of
New Zealand. Drouths are almost unknown in
these colonies, and rain is frequent. In the North
the greater amount falls during the winter ; in the
South it is more equally distributed throughout
the year. Almost every valley and plain is well
watered by streams flowing from the mountains.
There are countless streams of the purest water
in New Zealand, but very few rivers of any depth
or size. In the Canterbury districts are large runs,
or stations, where hundreds of thousands of sheep
are reared. Here also can be seen vast herds of
cattle and horses, which seem to be roaming at will.
254 Around the World.
Gold is found in all parts ; but the principal
quartz mines are in the Thames and Coromandel
districts, near Auckland, in the North Island.
Gold is also found in the river beds and on the
sea-coast, where it can be worked with comparative
ease. Good coal is obtained in many parts of
New Zealand, particularly on the west coast of the
South Island. There are also rich copper mines
near Nelson, which are beginning to attract atten-
tion. Building stone of various kinds and of
excellent quality abounds. The principal articles
of export are wheat, wool, barley, oats, flax, hops,
gum and gold. The industry of freezing and
shipping mutton has lately been entered into with
great success. Kauri gum, a valuable product of
the kauri tree, found in the soil on the sites of old
kauri forests, and at the foot of growing trees, is
much used in Europe and America as a base for
fine varnishes. Fruit of every description abounds.
The scenery is very picturesque. The mountains
in the North Island occupy about one-tenth of the
surface, and are thickly covered with timber. Mount
Ruapehu and Mount Egmont are extinct volcanoes.
Mount Tongariro is occasionally active. In the
South Island nearly four-fifths of the surface is
covered by mountains, the greater part of them
open, covered with grass, and well adapted for
pasture. The Southern Alps run close to the west
coast the whole length of the island. Mount Cook,
Scenery — Varieties of Birds. 255
which is over 12,000 feet high, is the highest peak,
and has many glaciers. The main range of these
mountains is crossed at intervals by low passes.
On the eastern side are extensive agricultural plains,
and the western slopes are rich in mineral wealth.
On the southwestern coast are several sounds
which are surrounded by snow-capped mountains
rising from 5,000 to 10,000 feet in height. The
scenery is grand, especially in the vicinity of Mil-
ford Sound. There are also numerous cascades
and waterfalls in this section, one of which is 800
feet in height. In the Province of Auckland, on
the North Island, are some famous geysers and
sulphur springs, which are much visited by tourists
and sight-seers. The waters are warm, transparent,
and of a beautiful blue color, and are supposed to
contain wonderful curative power for tubercular
diseases, rheumatism and nervous affections.
New Zealand abounds in birds peculiar to that
country alone, and is particularly remarkable for
its wingless birds. There are four species of kiwi.
These birds are a little larger than a hen ; they are
without wings or tail feathers, have bills like a
snipe, short legs, and are covered with long brown
feathers which resemble hair. The kuku is a
species of owl, and is called by the settlers " More
Pork," because its cry resembles those words. Par-
rots are abundant. Great numbers of kaka, a
large brown parrot, assemble both morning and
256 Around the World.
evening on berry-bearing trees, and utter discordant
screams, which among the natives serve as a signal
for the beginning and ending of the day's labor.
The kea, another native bird, has of late years
developed a fondness for mutton. It flies upon the
backs of the sheep, and, with its strong bill, tears
the flesh away until it reaches the fat around the
kidneys, which is all that it eats. Dogs and rats
were the only native quadrupeds when the islands
were first visited by Europeans. There are no
snakes. A few lizards are found, which are harm-
less, although they are held in superstition by the
natives, who think the spirits of their ancestors
inhabit them.
The trees are almost all evergreens ; conse-
quently change of seasons makes very little differ-
ence in the appearance of the forests. The kauri
pine, which is found only in the North Island,
grows to a great size, and is often forty feet in cir-
cumference. Owingf to the lightness and toughness
of the stem, it is well adapted for masts. The
totard pine equals the kauri in lightness and com-
mercial value ; the purri rivals the English oak in
hardness.
There are 2,500 miles of railway in New Zea-
land. In addition to road and railway communi-
cation, intercourse is carried on between the chief
ports, two or three times a week, by swift, commo-
dious steamers. Telegraph wires run through
The Maoris. 257
every settled district, and extend to Australia and
England. There are a line of steamers which
make regular monthly trips between San Fran-
cisco and Auckland, and regular mail steamers
which run between the latter place and England.
The time consumed in making the trip is
forty-five days. There are also steamers which
run between New Zealand and the different
Australian ports. The distance between Auckland
and Melbourne is 1,479 miles. For many years
the government issued free tickets to emigrants,
and thousands of people from England and Ger-
many availed themselves of this privilege, and
made themselves homes in this far-off land. The
issuing of free tickets has now been stopped, and
an aid-emigration bureau has been established by
the government, which assists farmers, and other
classes of people in need of assistance, with a
small amount of capital, and enables them to get
a start.
The native inhabitants are called Maori. Their
hair is generally coarse and black, though some-
times a rusty red ; they have good teeth, a broad
nose, and brown skin, which in some instances is
very fair, and in others so dark that it is almost
black. They are deficient in reason and judgment,
and have little imagination, but possess good mem-
ories and quick perceptions. They are fond of
simple and noisy music, and have an accurate per-
17
258 Around the World.
ception of time. They are vain, arrogant and
revengeful, hospitable to strangers, affectionate to
their friends, and observant of their promises ;
they are dirty and indolent, and formerly worshiped
gods, to whom they addressed prayers and offered
sacrifices. Their gods were invisible, many of
them deified men, ancestral chiefs of the tribe or
nation by whom they were worshiped. They be-
lieve in a future state, and that there are two
distinct abodes for departed spirits, neither of
which is a place of punishment, as they believe
that evil deeds are punished in this world by
sickness and personal misfortune. They are appar-
ently more industrious and more capable of
civilization than our American Indians, and are
now turning their attention to farming and other
pursuits
In the bush and back country are thousands of
wild hogs, the increase from a few that Captain
Cook let loose when he first landed on the island.
Auckland is the largest city on the islands, and
was, until 1865, the seat of government. All of
the principal cities are well laid out ; the streets are
broad, and the buildings of modern architecture.
Wellington, the capital of the province of the same
name, and at present the seat of the New Zealand
Government, is situated on the fine harbor of Port
Nicholson. It has a number of fine public build-
ings. The principal hotels are the Occidental and
The Climate. 259
the Imperial, at each of which the regular charge
for accommodations is twelve shillings per day.
The country is especially adapted to agriculture, as
it is never subject to drouth, and can always find a
market for the surplus crops in the sister colony of
Australia, where drouths are of frequent occurrence.
New Zealand is nearly antipodal to Great Britain,
and resembles it in climate, only that it is more
equable. The summer is longer and somewhat
warmer than that of England, and the other sea-
sons much milder. In some districts high winds
prevail ; in others, the atmosphere is peculiarly
serene. The climate is said to be the finest in the
world. New Zealand, with her mild climate, fertile
soil, fine harbors, extensive and valuable mineral
deposits, and picturesque and beautiful scenery, is
destined to rank first among the colonies in the
Southern Hemisphere. After a pleasant and profit-
able visit to this country, I returned to Sydney,
where I embarked on the steamer Airlie (belong-
ing to the Australian and Eastern Steamship Com-
pany) for China.
260 Around the World.
CHAPTER XIV.
THE AUSTRALIAN COAST.
The distance between Sydney and Hong-Kong
is 4,500 miles; so I was in for another long sea
voyage, and the most dangerous one I had yet
undertaken since beginning my tour. First, we
had to travel for a distance of 2,000 miles with the
Australian shore on one side and the Great Barrier
Reefs on the other, — the most extensive coral reefs
known in the world. There are frequent and often
dangerous passages in this barrier which permit the
entrance of vessels into the sea lying between it
and the mainland. This body of water varies in
breadth, from its southern entrance, where the reefs
lie at a great distance from the shore and it is a
broad, open sea, to its central point, at Cape Tribu-
lation, where it hardly affords a passage for vessels.
Going north, it widens again until it stretches far
away from the coast, and extends across the east
end of Torres Strait. Many vessels have been
stranded on these reefs in the last few years.
Secondly, we had to face the typhoon in the
China Sea. These winds are generally preceded
by a peculiar haziness of the atmosphere, and an
Along the Australian Shore. 261
ominous stillness. When the storm has arrived at
its greatest severity, the confusion of the scene is
almost indescribable; the wind fills the air with a
deafening roar, and there occur gusts, the violence
of which equals or exceeds the force of the strong-
est wave ; everything gives way before this terrific
wind, and the ship that can weather it is indeed
fortunate. The Chinese call these storms tae-fun;
they are of frequent occurrence in the China Sea,
and many ships are wrecked by them every year.
To make matters still more dangerous on this par-
ticular voyage, the ship was loaded down, to within
two feet of the water's edge, with coal and other
heavy material. As a- large share of this cargo
was to be distributed at different ports along the
Northern Australian coast, it gave us ample time
to take in all the coast towns of New South Wales
and Oueenstown.
On leaving Sydney, we steamed down the har-
bor, and soon found ourselves in the South Pacific
Ocean. After traveling seventy-three miles, we
arrived at Newcastle, where we loaded the steamer
down to the brim with coal to feed the furnaces on
this long and boisterous voyage. Newcastle is the
principal seaport town on the northern coast of
New South Wales. There are two lines of steam-
ers which run daily between this place and Sydney.
It is a well built town, and has a population of
nearly 25,000. The harbor is defended by a fort,,
262 Around the World.
and protected by a breakwater, which renders it
more easy of access in stormy weather. Besides
the agricultural produce of the Hunter River dis-
trict, the principal export is coal. It is a common
thing for vessels in this part of the world, after
discharoinof their cargoes, to pfo to Newcastle and
take in a cargo of coal for the return trip.
After leaving Newcastle, the next city of impor-
tance we arrived at was Brisbane, the capital of the
Colony of Queensland. It is situated on both
banks of the River Brisbane, about twenty-five
miles from its entrance into Morton Bay, and con-
sists of four parts, — North and South Brisbane,
Kangaroo Point and Fortitude Valley. The river
opposite the town is about a quarter of a mile
broad, and is navigable for vessels of considerable
burden. This town was founded in 1825 as a
penal settlement, and named in honor of Sir
Thomas Brisbane. In 1842 the penal establish-
ment was abolished, and colonization set in. Bris-
bane is a prosperous seaport town, and has a mixed
European population of about 47,000. It is
backed by vast mineral resources, and also by
extensive pastoral districts, where sheep farming is
largely engaged in.
The chief orold-mininp- towns in Oueensland
are Palmerville, Ravenswood, Charter Tower and
Olympia. Queensland lies between Torres Strait
and New South Wales. It was separated from the
Productions of Queensland. 263
mother colony in 1859. For many years there
existed a natural but unfounded prejudice against
the supposed warmer climate of this colony, which
retarded its progress. But the discovery of its
great wealth in mineral and sugar lands, and the
fact of the remarkable salubrity of the climate,
removed this prejudice, and greatly advanced the
prosperity of the colony.
The main range of mountains consists of a
broad plateau extending from north to south at a
distance of from 20 to 100 miles from the coast,
and varying in height from 2,000 to 5,000 feet.
This region is the seat of mining, and will be of
agriculture. The Coast Range is less elevated.
Cape York Peninsula is a fair sample of Queens-
land. Good land alternates with bad. The hills
are rich in mineral wealth, and the forests are very
valuable. The flats near the mouths of the
majority of the streams are admirably adapted to
the growth of rice and sugar-cane, while the hilly
slopes are suitable for coffee trees. Pastoral farm-
ing is the leading industry of the colony, and until
the last few years little attention was paid to agri-
culture, on account of the high price of labor, and
the difficulty of finding a market for agricultural
products.
There is a vast section of country which is
especially adapted to stock-raising. These lands
are nearly all owned by the government, and
264 'Around the World.
leased to stock-raisers, for a small rental, for a term
of years. In settled districts, or within thirty miles
of the coast, a "run" is subject to resumption by
the state, on giving six months' notice, should any
part of it be required by actual settlers for the
purpose of cutting it up into farms. But in the
unsettled districts a lease of twenty-one years
granted by the government, is pretty secure to the
lessee. The rent advances every seven years of
the term from about a half a farthing to a penny
an acre. Within certain distances of the principal
mountains the rains fall regularly; but the central
and southern districts of Queensland are not so
well favored, and the western part of the colony
depends on occasional thunder-storms, although
nature provides this section with a species of grass
which resists drouths for a long time. At the time
of my visit to Brisbane, I was told that little rain
had fallen in this vicinity for several years ; the
hills had a bronzed appearance, and many of the
water-courses had run dry.
The Great Barrier Reef, which follows the line
of the northeastern coast for 1,200 miles, protects
it from the violence of the ocean's storms, and
forms a natural breakwater. Inside of this reef
the water is very smooth. As we continued our
journey northward, we were the greater part of the
time in plain sight of the mainland on one side,
and the reefs on the other. On this passage I saw
The Coral Sea. 265
the wreck of an American bark which had been
stranded some three months before on a hidden
reef, the passengers and crew barely escaping
with their lives, — a fair sample of what occurs
every year in the Coral Sea.
The next Australian city at which we stopped
was Rockhampton, situated on the Fitzroy River,
and nearly on the Tropic of Capricorn. It is built
in the hills, and, notwithstanding the heat, has a
singularly line climate. It is a gateway to a great
pastoral country, and a port of export for wool.
The hills in this vicinity are rich in minerals. From
Rockhampton westward a railroad has been built
into the interior. Our next stopping place was
Townsville, on Cleveland Bay. Here a narrow-
gauge railway fifty miles long runs to Charter
Tower, and will eventually be extended farther
into the interior country. The scenery in the
mountains is often beautiful, but not grand. The
shore and the islands along the coast are clothed
with palms and other tropical trees. Flowers are
numerous, and have a powerful fragrance. Over
300 useful woods grow in Queensland, including
satin-wood, sandalwood, teak, mahogany, the red
cedar and tulip-wood. Beautiful ferns abound, and
include many different varieties. In the northeast
particularly, the tree fern attains magnificent pro-
portions, often rising from twenty to thirty feet.
The sea along this coast abounds in fish, and the
266 Around the World.
fishery of the trepang, beche-de-mer, or sea slug,
employs a considerable number <5f boats along the
coral reefs. These fish are boiled, smoked, dried,
or packed in bags for exportation to China. They
make an agreeable and nourishing soup, which is
much relished by Australian invalids. The du-
gong, or sea cow, has a delicate flesh of the flavor
of veal, and furnishes an oil with the qualities of
cod-liver oil. The Chinese are the best fishermen
in Australian waters. The climate on the north-
ern coast is dry and salubrious, the highest tem-
perature being 1 10 degrees in the shade in Decem-
ber, and the lowest 75 degrees in June. The heat
on this shore is modified by the gentle breeze of
the southeastern monsoon, which blows almost
constantly for about seven months in the year.
The next point of interest which came under my
observation was Cape Tribulation, which was dis-
covered by Captain Cook on his first visit to Aus-
tralia. His vessel had to put in here for repairs,
as it had sustained more or less injury in penetrat-
ing the coral reefs. Captain Cook was one of the
greatest navigators of his day. He discovered
New Zealand in 1 769 ; but his attempts to pene-
trate the interior were frustrated by the hostility of
the natives, and he had to content himself with a
six-months voyage around the coast. He discov-
ered the existence of the channel which divides
New Zealand into two lar^e islands. From New
The Great Navigator s Sad Fate. 267
Zealand he went to Australia, and, on April 28th,
came in sight of Botany Bay. His discoveries
here were also confined to the coasts, as the na-
tives were hostile. However, he formally took
possession of the country in the name of Great
Britain. From Australia he went to New Guinea,
and from there to Batavia, where, his boat being
disabled, he had to put in for repairs. He returned
to England, June 11, 1 77 1 , having circumnavigated
the globe in less than three years. He afterward
lost his life on the Sandwich Islands, in February,
1779-
Near Cape Tribulation stands Cooktown, one of
the most important ports on the Northern Austra-
lian coast. It lies at the foot of a towering mount-
ain, and is washed by the waters of the Coral Sea.
Back of this town lies Cook's district, which is rich
in natural resources, and is said to contain the
most extensive gold fields in Oueensland. At the
time I visited the town, there was a great mining
boom, due to the discovery of new and rich mines.
Cooktown has a fine climate, and tropical fruits
of all kinds grow in profusion. Here can be seen
orange trees, cocoanut, tamarind, guava, papaw,
banana and pine-apple, in addition to fruits and
vegetables of all kinds. This is also a good sugar
country.
A great drawback to the settlement of the inte-
rior country surrounding Cooktown is the character
268 Around the World.
of the natives, who are said to be very ferocious,
many of them being cannibals. I heard of several
instances where white men had been murdered,
robbed and eaten by these savages. While I claim
to have had a considerable experience, and a good
opportunity of studying the characteristics of the
different human races during the last thirty years,
a sense of the fitness of things prevents me from
dilating on the results of those observations here.
I have no hesitation, however, in saying, that, from
the information I derived in regard to these Aus-
tralian aborigines, and from what I saw of the
dusky, greasy features of the half-tamed ones who
idle around the towns, and whose only pursuit
seems to be begging from and murdering white
men, they certainly seem to be the most worthless
species of humanity. They have no industry
whatever, and have an insatiable thirst for human
blood. The majority of them are as wild and
savage as the wolves of the forest.
Occasionally, however, the least harmful of them
are permitted to approach the seaport towns. For
instance, in Cooktown I saw them lurking around
the streets, both sexes as nearly destitute of cloth-
ing as the law would allow them to appear in civil-
ization. As they wear no costume worthy of
mention, I am relieved from description in that
line. The men all wear laree rinofs in their noses.
You often see women with their naked babies
Aborigines and Mongolians. 269
a
strapped upon their bare, brown backs. They are
kept warm by the heat of the tropical sun, and do
not seem to feel the need of clothing. It seemed
strange to me that the British Government per-
mitted these savages to roam at large, instead of
confining them to reservations. I heard a great
deal of complaint from European residents on this
score. The natives are much better protected
from being killed or persecuted by the whites than
are our American Indians. I also discovered that
the Mongolian is much better protected in British
possessions than in the United States, although I
heard the same complaint all over Australia that I
had constantly heard at home ; namely, that the
Chinese were the ruination of the country, inso-
much that they supplanted white labor in every
branch of industry, swarming into the mines, and
in all the cities and towns.
As we steamed out of Cooktown, I discovered
that our live cargo had been augmented by 200
Chinamen picked up at the different coast towns.
These were all bound for the Celestial Empire,
intent on enjoying the Chinese New Year among
their moon-eyed brethren. The majority of these
pig-tail passengers had a return ticket, and ex-
pected to go back and make another drain on the
Australian resources. We were so heavily laden,
both with freight and live cargo, that, had we
struck on a reef, the iron vessel would have sunk
270 Aroicnd the World.
like lead. The white passengers would probably
have had to share the fate of the vessel, as the
Chinese were largely in the majority and would
have captured all the life-boats.
All along the coast are numerous lighthouses
and light-ships, with revolving lights, which have
been stationed in different places to aid the mariner
on his way. In the more dangerous portions of
the channel, vessels are required to anchor over
niodit, in order to avoid the risk of running on hid-
den rocks and reefs. At last, after a safe but slow
passage, we entered the Albany Pass, and the
Great Barrier Reefs gradually faded from sight.
Many of the islands in the Coral Sea are as bare
as a bone of vegetation, and are partially cov-
ered with drifting sand; others are covered with
shrubs. Pieces of wrecks are scattered along the
shores of these islands, and various other objects
which have drifted in from the sea. Albany Pass
is situated between the Coral Sea and Torres
Strait. It is a narrow opening about two miles
long, and half a mile wide, lined with picturesque
points and projecting rocks, and the greater part of
the shore is clothed in luxuriant evergreens, which
add much to the beauty of the scene. Every object
of interest is appreciated by the tourist, as he soon
wearies of the monotony of ocean travel.
The first place of importance in Torres Strait is
Thursday Island, the chief seat of the pearl-fishing
Torrid on Torres Strait. 271
industry on the Australian coast. It is three miles
longf and two miles broad. Its inhabitants and
those of the neighboring groups are principally
European divers, who come here solely to engage
in pearl fishing, and with the expectation of accu-
mulating a fortune in this enterprise. Pearl fishing
in these waters is a growing and prosperous in-
dustry. The shells are procured by diving, and
bring from $600 to $1,000 a ton. Mother of pearl
and tortoise shells abound. This industry is said
to be very hard on the lungs, and often causes un-
timely death.
After crossing Torres Strait, we entered the Gulf
of Carpentaria, and skirted the western shore of
New Guinea. I was unable to grain much informa-
tion in regard to the resources of this island, as
only a small portion of it has ever been explored
or colonized, on account of the hostility of the
native inhabitants. Both the Eng-lish and Dutch
have made repeated attempts to explore the interior,
but so far have met with very poor success. The
sea-coast in the vicinity of Port Mosby and the Fly
River, is sparsely settled by Europeans, who are
principally engaged in shell-gathering and pearl
fishing;.
Sailing in the Gulf of Carpentaria, we were fast
approaching the Equatorial line. The heat of the
tropical sun became terrific, and the passengers had
all they could do to keep from melting. The first
272 Around the World.
half of this passage the heat was the most intense
I had experienced since crossing the Red Sea, and,
if anything, it was hotter than then. In my state-
room in the coolest part of the night, with the door
and port-holes wide open, the heat was suffocating.
I generally beat a hasty retreat to the open deck,
where I could get an occasional breath of fresh
air, more to be appreciated than diamonds in this
latitude. Many of the passengers could be seen at
all hours of the night stretched out on the quarter
deck trying to get a few hours' rest and repose after
enduring the severe heat of the day. The captain
and officers were reduced to the same expedient.
As for myself, I began to ponder, and wonder whether
this was the lovely Australian coast or a temporary
hell on sea.
One phenomenon in this part of the globe is
that the sun is apparently traveling in the northern
heavens, and that the compass points south instead
of north, which seems odd to a traveler from the
other side of the globe.
After two days' sailing over the memorable Gulf
of Carpentaria, we steamed into Port Darwin,
where we anchored for two days, discharging a
large amount of cargo and a considerable number
of passengers, many of whom were bound for the
new gold fields at Ord River, in Western Australia.
I was told that new gold fields are always being
discovered in this country, and that there is gener-
Port Darwin. 273
ally more or less excitement in regard to mines.
Port Darwin is the last and most northern point
on the Australian coast. It lies in latitude five,
and is 2,500 miles from Melbourne, and about the
same distance from Honof-Konor Owing- to its
nearness to the Equator, it is extremely hot there.
This port is quite a commercial centre, and has
the advantage of having a spacious and secure
harbor. This harbor is almost encircled by a low
peninsula, extending into the Bay of Carpentaria,
and is considered, next to the one at Sydney, the
best harbor in Australia. The main feature of
interest at this port is the long wharves, which are
being built far out into the harbor. When these
are completed, the cargo can be unloaded directly
from the ship to the cars, instead of being trans-
ferred in barges from the ship to the shore, as at
present. The town has no imposing buildings, and
the houses are low and square, with broad veran-
das built all around them to keep out, as much as
possible, the heat of the tropical sun. The ther-
mometer often rises as high as 130 degrees in the
shade, and I found the heat more intense than at
Fort Yuma or Panama.
The vicinity of Port Darwin is inhabited by sav-
age tribes. Many of these natives haunt the town,
and you often see them rambling around the streets,
the women almost invariably with a baby strapped
to their backs. While several gentlemen and my-
18
274 Around the World.
self were sitting on the veranda to our hotel, we
were approached by one of these brown beauties,
who offered to sell us her baby for the sum of ten
shillings, as it was the only baby she had. She
failed, however, to make a sale, even at this low
figure, as we were all afraid to invest in this kind
of a curiosity, thinking that it might prove an an-
noying and perhaps expensive investment in the
long run. This only goes to illustrate how far from
being civilized these people are, as any one of them
will sell their children for a mere song.
Off for China. 275
CHAPTER XV.
PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AND CHINA SEA TO
HONG-KONG.
On leaving Port Darwin, we set sail for China,
traveling by way of the Philippine Islands, Java
and Singapore. As we steamed out of the harbor,
I had my last glimpse of Australia, a country to
which I had given more time and attention in in-
vestigating its various resources than to any other
on my whole tour. As I have said before, Australia
lies thousands of miles out of the beaten line of
travel between India and China, and on that ac-
count has not been visited by the greater propor-
tion of tourists. My journeyings in Australia, both
by land and water, amounted to 6,000 miles, nearly
5,000 miles of that distance being devoted to sail-
ing along the sea-coast. I visited all the principal
cities and seaports, and traveled nearly two-thirds
of the entire distance around this mammoth island.
I sailed from Cape Leeuwin, in the Indian Ocean,
to Port Darwin, in the Gulf of Carpentaria. I
also traveled 1,200 miles by rail, which gave me an
opportunity of viewing the principal inland sights,
and forming an estimate of the resources of the
276 Around the World.
country. From the Gulf of Carpentaria we sailed
into the Arafura Sea, sighting the Island of Ser-
mattan. This is a small island of no particular
importance, twelve miles long and six miles broad,
its only visible vegetation being a few tropical
plants. For two days the heat was almost intoler-
able, and every one donned their white suits, about
the only suits worn by passengers, captain and of-
ficers in these latitudes. As they are inexpensive,
and much cooler and more comfortable than woolen
clothing, travelers in this part of the world usually
carry a number of these suits with them. It is
necessary, however, to take woolen clothing too ;
as, the average speed of the steamer being twelve
knots an hour, or 300 miles per day, one travels
over quite a number of degrees of latitude in a
week, and the temperature varies accordingly.
We had been distributing European passengers
all along the coast at the various Australian ports
at which we touched, and in turn had picked up
Chinese, so that now the Celestials numbered at
least 300, and my white companions had dwindled
down to a mere handful. This was anything but
pleasant to reflect upon, and I would have much
preferred to have the order of things reversed.
Life on board of the steamer Airlie, among the
coolies, was busy and full of interest, not only to
the Chinese themselves, but to the other passen-
gers, who found amusement in watching how the
Celestials Gambling at Sea. 277
v>
Chinese conducted themselves. An artist would
have found material for at least one day's work,
and the illustrated papers could have gleaned some
striking- views.
Probably the most interesting sight was their
gambling games, which they generally kept up
from dawn until midnight. They were divided up
into squads, seated on the open deck, engaged in
various games ; were almost stripped of clothing,
and would sit in the blazing sun with a fan in one
hand and their gambling blocks in the other,
apparently trying to fleece each other. Those that
were not gambling were lying on their backs
smoking opium, or quarreling, and some were even
fighting. The liveliest time, however, was at meal
time, when a grand rush was made for the table,
and they seized their chop-sticks, and shoveled the
rice into their mouths as fast as if their lives
depended on the rapidity with which they ate. The
meal finished, they left the table as unceremo-
niously as they came, and went to gambling with
renewed vigor. Money changed hands rapidly ;
the poor became rich, and the rich became poor, in
a few hours of play. The Chinese have a decided
passion for gambling, and I was fully convinced,
from what I saw, that they would much sooner
gamble than eat.
These Celestials are not the most miserable race
in existence, by any means. The deck hands, con-
278 Around the World.
sisting of a mixture of several Oriental races, were
a much more degraded set, even dispensing with
chop-sticks while eating, conveying the food to
their mouths with their hands, and reminding one
of so many dusky pigs gathered around a dough
pile. At night their only bed was the open deck,
on which they lay down destitute of any covering
but their scanty clothing, and, with their faces to
the tropical sky, slept much more soundly than do
many of their civilized brethren when surrounded
by all the comforts and luxuries that man's inge-
nuity can devise. The engine in the steamer Air-
lie had a capacity of 314 horse-power, and the ship
itself was of 3,000 tons burthen. The officers, con-
sisting- of the captain, four mates and four engi-
neers, and the goodly staff of smiling waiters, were
all Europeans. The men before the mast, and the
balance of the crew, were a mixture of native
Portuguese, Maoris, Hindus, Arabs and Malays.
They received a sixpence, or twelve cents, a day
for their services. They certainly work cheap
enough, as they do good work, and have very poor
fare, and a white man would hardly be able to do
the work they do and endure the heat.
The same rules for bills of fare and nours for
serving meals seem to prevail on all steamships
which sail in Asiatic and Australian waters. Each
passenger has his own particular place at the table,
which is always, especially for dinner, bountifully
Islands — Burning Mountain. 279
spread. The few European fellow-passengers I
had on this voyage were a jolly lot, composed of
several London and Australian merchants, and a
Hong-Kong sea captain, who thoroughly under-
stood the navigation of these waters. As the com-
mander of our ship, Captain Ellis, was a fine navi-
gator, we were abundantly blessed in that respect.
Both captains kept me well posted as to the lati-
tude and longitude we were in, and also informed
me in regard to the various objects and islands we
passed, the direction in which we were moving,
and the governments to which the different islands
we sighted, belonged.
We traveled as nearly as possible in a northerly
direction, although a direct course was often pre-
vented by the numerous islands of the Indian
Archipelago. Progress was necessarily slow, on
account of the roundabout way in which we had
to travel, and the many obstructions which occur
in these waters. Our average speed was not ovi r
ten miles, or ten knots, an hour ; while in free and
open ocean, with the monsoon in our favor, we
would average twelve knots an hour. Three hun-
dred miles is considered a day's journey at sea.
Seventy miles from Sermattan, we approached
Damma Island, where we were treated to a change
of scene in the shape of witnessing the eruption of
a large volcano, which appeared at a distance like
a burning mountain. Leaving this grand sight
280 Around the World.
behind, we passed through Sunda Strait into the
Banda Sea. Here the sea was calm, but the tem-
perature of the atmosphere extremely hot, which,
of course, we expected, being so near the Equator.
After sailing 150 miles in the Banda Sea, we entered
the Strait of Manipa, and found ourselves skirting
the Island of Amboyna, which is thirty miles long
and thirty broad. The elevation of its highest
peak is 4,008 feet ; it belongs to the Dutch, has a
resident governor, and presents the appearance of
being a fertile island. Between the islands of
Manipa and Borneo is a passage fifteen miles in
width, whose waters are said to be 500 fathoms
deep. We next passed through Baka Strait. The
islands on either side of this passage belong to the
Dutch. They are clothed with the luxuriant vege-
tation of the tropics, and present a very beautiful
appearance.
After sailing through the Basline Passage into
the Celebes Sea, we found ourselves rapidly near-
ing the Philippine Islands. We skirted the shore
so closely for many miles that a girl could throw a
stone from the ship to the mainland. This gave
us a fine opportunity of viewing these famous
islands. The coast was lined with cocoanut trees,
and all sorts of tropical plants were growing in
profusion. The sloping hillsides were covered with
green crops, and the entire landscape looked doubly
beautiful to the eye wearied of the waste of waters.
Philippines and the Celebes Sea. 281
We passed island after island, each clothed in lovely
green, the luxuriant vegetation growing clear down
to the water's edge. These islands seem to be
favored by nature in every respect ; the soil is fer-
tile ; the climate mild, salubrious and healthful. I
felt as if I had arrived at the Mecca of the South
Pacific Ocean.
These islands belong to Spain, and are chiefly
colonized by that nationality. The Spanish Gov-
ernment keeps a resident governor here, and at all
the seaports men-of-war are stationed to protect
the interests of the government and her subjects in
this quarter of the globe. Notwithstanding the
fact that these islands are so well favored by nature,
and so jealously guarded by the Spanish Govern-
ment, by far the larger proportion of the land is
uncultivated and unsettled. The government is
determined that the people of no other nation shall
be allowed to come in and get a foothold in her
Asiatic possessions ; consequently, immigration is
not encouraged, and these beautiful and fertile
islands will probably be sparsely settled for many
years to come. Mindanao Island is the most
southern of the group.
Leaving the Celebes Sea, we sailed through the
Sulu Sea, and were journeying in a roundabout
way to Singapore. The ocean in this part of the
world is full of islands, capes, peninsulas and
straits. Want of space, however, will prevent me
282 Around the World.
from mentioning more than a few of the principal
ones. As we journeyed leisurely along, many times
sailing close to the shore, I had a bird's-eye view
from the steamer of a number of these islands. It
was a matter of regret to me that I was unable to
have more than a passing glance of the Philippine
Islands, Borneo and New Guinea. I would have
liked very much to pay a visit to each of these
countries to gain an insight into the manners and
customs of the people, and learn something of the
resources of each country. As it was, I had to
content myself with such information as I derived
from Captain Ellis, of the steamship Airlie.
Going from the Philippine Islands to Singapore,
we crossed a portion of the China Sea. The pass-
age was very rough, and sea-sickness prevailed with
the majority of the passengers. I was no longer
troubled with this disagreeable malady, and was
able to sit back and laugh at my less fortunate
companions. I had had, however, the advantage
of an almost continuous sea voyage of 25,000
miles ; and, if there is anything in the old maxim
that practice makes perfect, I ought by this time
to have become a pretty good sailor. The rock-
ing of the steamer in the heaviest gale produced
no more impression on me than being carried by
two coolies in a sedan chair. On this particular
trip the sea was so heavy and the waves ran so
higrh that the water dashed clear over the hurri-
Singapore. 283
cane deck. On the way to Singapore we passed
near Anger Point, on the coast of Java, where a
terrible earthquake occurred five years ago, when
the island of Ancrer Point, including: a town of
30,000 inhabitants, was swallowed up in the sea.
Singapore is situated on the south side of the
Island of Singapore, and is in the British colony of
the Straits Settlements. The port of Singapore
is capacious, and the water deep enough for the
largest vessels. The harbor is provided with every
facility for an extensive commerce, and for fitting
out and repairing vessels. In consequence of its
geographical position, it is one of the most impor-
tant ports of Asia, and is resorted to by the vessels
of all nations. The city is situated on a low plain
fronting the harbor, with hills in the rear, which
are occupied by country houses. The principal
points of interest are the fortifications, the Gov-
ernment House ; the Botanical Gardens, which
have a magnificent collection of tropical plants ;
the Chinese temple, and the Mohammedan mosques.
The Island of Singapore lies at the extreme
southern end of the Malay Peninsula, from which
it is separated by a strait about forty miles long
by from one-half mile to two miles wide. This
island is about twenty-five miles long from east to
west, and about twelve miles wide. Near the coast
are swamp tracts, covered with mangrove trees; but
inland there are many small hills from 100 to 500
284 Around the World.
feet high. The climate is healthful ; but, owing to
its nearness to the Equator, very warm. Rain
falls in abundance. Wild animals abound, and
tigers are said to cross the strait to the island, and
carry off, on an average, a Chinaman a day.
The population of Singapore numbers about
125,000. It consists of Europeans, who are largely
in the majority, and a mixture of Asiatic races.
The natives are indolent, seem to be entirely lack-
ing in ambition, wear very little clothing of any
kind, and the highest remuneration they receive for
work of any description is a sixpence a day.
After staying two days in Singapore, we steamed
out of the harbor, bound for Hong-Kong, a distance
of 900 miles. In crossing the China Sea, we were
treated to some boisterous gales, and a storm, which
lasted twenty-four hours, and carried away two of
our life-boats. Once, while the storm was at its
height, I waded knee-deep in water on the quarter
deck. Even the hurricane deck was washed by the
sea from stem to stern. However, the powerful
iron steamer plowed its way through the raging
billows, and landed us safely on the shores of China.
For sixty miles before arriving at Hong-Kong, we
were skirting the Chinese shore. The sea in this
vicinity was dotted with fishing boats. The waters
of the Chinese rivers and seas are teeming with
fish ; and fishing is the principal industry of the
people who live along the coast.
Hong-Kong. 285
CHAPTER XVI.
CHINA, FROM HONG-KONG TO CANTON.
Hong-Kong is situated on the southeastern
coast of China. This island was ceded to Great
Britain, and is considered an important British
possession. It is one of a small cluster of islands
called by the Portuguese " Ladrones," or " Thieves,"
on account of the notorious habits of the old
inhabitants. This island has an area of twenty-
nine square miles ; the extreme length, from north-
east to southeast, is ten miles and a half ; and the
breadth varies from two to five miles. It is sep-
arated from the mainland by a narrow channel,
which is a mile wide in some places, and in others
it is not over a quarter of a mile to the opposite
shore. The capital, which is called Victoria, is
situated on the northwestern extremity of the
island. The streets are wide and well kept, and
the buildings are mostly of brick and stone, and
are greatly superior to those of a Chinese city.
Hong-Kong owes its present importance prin-
cipally to its financial prominence as the head-
quarters of the banking interest, and to its mag-
nificent harbor, which appeared to me to be almost
286 Around the World.
completely landlocked. Next to the one at Syd-
ney, this harbor is probably the most commodious
and secure, and here vessels are anchored from
almost every part of the world. Prominent among
the forest of masts were those flying the American
flag, to me a most pleasant sight, as it brought
anew to my mind memories of the home I had
left behind, and which was still 7,000 miles away.
My first object in arriving at a foreign port was to
get a glimpse of the American flag. There are a
few American residents in Honor-Kongr.
The harbor presented an extremely lively appear-
ance, and the Chinese sampans were swarming in
every direction. These boats, from twelve to fif-
teen feet long, form the only home of quite a num-
ber of families who live on the Canton River, and
every child large enough to toddle must help pull
an oar. As soon as our steamer cast anchor, we
were surrounded by hundreds of these sampans,
the occupants screaming and yelling, each trying
to get the largest number of passengers to convey
to the shore. The boat in which I happened to
get was manned by a family of ten, varying in age
from four to fifty. The old man was occupied in
guiding the rudder and the sail, and the rest of the
family, from the wife down to the baby, were row-
ing, each provided with an oar suited to their size
and strength.
From this novel experience in traveling on
First Experience in a Sedan Chair. 287
water, I was to meet with a still more novel one in
traveling on land. On coming on shore, I was
immediately surrounded by a lot of half-naked
coolies with their sedan chairs, and was soon
being carried through the streets of Hong-Kong
by two Celestials, who took me to the leading hotel
of the city for ten cents. This was called the
Hong-Kong Hotel, and I was charged the moder-
ate price of five dollars per day for accommoda-
tions. The "tone" of the place seemed to be in
the price, and in nothing else. Evidently the
Europeans do not intend to reside in the Orient
for nothing, and are anxious to accumulate fortunes
rapidly.
The town, including the Chinese quarter, ex-
tends for about three miles alongr the shores of the
bay, and has a steep range of mountains for a
background. The climate is a little warmer than
that of San Francisco, a little cooler than that of
Naples, and, with the exception of certain seasons
of the year, is considered healthful. There are
several handsome government buildings, a large
exchange, a cathedral, the bishop's palace, and ex-
tensive barracks. There are also ten large bank-
ing houses in Hong-Kong. The houses of the
merchants are, as a rule, large and elegant, with
broad verandas built all around, and surrounded
by tasteful gardens.
Opium is imported more largely at Hong-Kong
288 Around the World.
than at any other port. It is also the centre of an
extensive trade in silk, chinaware, nut oil, amber,
ivory, sugar and many other tropical productions.
You find in circulation here the silver of almost
every nation, and I experienced more swindling in
making exchanges, and saw more counterfeit coin,
than in any other port. If the natives are behind
other countries in point of civilization, they are
certainly not behind any other people in the art of
fleecing the unwary stranger. The British fleet
is stationed in the harbor. Vessels come and go
almost daily from this port to Bombay, Calcutta,
Singapore, Canton, Yokohama, Sydney and San
Francisco.
Immediately southwest of the Capitol is Victoria
Peak, 1,825 feet in height, which is used as a station
for signaling the approach of vessels. After inves-
tigating the leading features of interest in the city,
I decided to make the ascent of this hill. So I
procured a sedan chair, the two coolies who fur-
nished the motive power of the vehicle agreeing to
carry me to the top and back at the rate of ten
cents an hour, which I considered much cheaper
and better than walking. The ascent was steep
and rocky, and I found being carried in this man-
ner pleasant, and more comfortable than traveling
on foot. Arriving at the summit, I had a fine view
of the Chinese coast and the neighboring islands.
The waters of the sea are dotted with fishing
Visiting Macao. 289
boats, Chinese sailing vessels, and craft of every
description. Looking inland, the prospect is wild
and monotonous. The hills are bare, and entirely
devoid of trees, and nowhere can there be seen
evidences of cultivation or fertility. Patches of
land along the coast have been planted to rice,
sweet potatoes and yams ; but the island is hardly
able to raise vegetables enough to supply the home
consumption.
The streets are guarded by a strong force of In-
dian Sepoys, and the natives are not allowed to go
abroad after eight o'clock without a pass. The
most common mode of street conveyance is by
sedan chairs, which are carried by coolies. The
passage across the Strait of Kan-lung to the main
shore is usually effected by means of sampans.
After doing Hong-Kong, I made a short visit to
Macao, thirty-eight miles distant. The intercourse
between Europe and China began in 151 7, when
the King of Portugal sent an ambassador accom-
panied by a Meet of eight ships to Peking. On
this occasion the Portuguese ambassador managed
to gain the friendship of the Viceroy of Canton,
and made an advantageous treaty with him. This
was the commencement of the relations of China
with Europe. Subsequently the Portuguese ren-
dered the Chinese a signal service by capturing a
famous pirate who had long ravaged their coasts.
In gratitude for this service, the Emperor permitted
19
290 Around the World.
them to establish themselves on a peninsula formed
by some sterile rocks.
On this spot arose the city of Macao, long the
mart of the commerce of Europeans with the
Celestial Empire. The establishment of the En-
glish at Hong-Kong did much to divest it of its
former commercial importance. By the exclusive
policy of both the Chinese and Portuguese, Macao
was prevented from becoming a free port until 1845
and 1846, and consequently it was long ago out-
stripped by its more liberal rivals. The trade of
this city, however, is still of very considerable ex-
tent, its principal commercial intercourse being with
Hong-Kong, Canton, Batavia and Zoa. The
preparation and packing of tea is the principal in-
dustry of the town. The most of the land is under
garden cultivation ; but the majority of the people
are more or less dependent upon commercial pur-
suits. This is a notorious gambling resort, and the
colonial revenue is largely recruited by a tax on
the gaming tables. The sports and young bloods
from Hong-Kong come over here on Sunday ex-
cursions, and generally manage to leave the larger
proportion of their cash behind when they return
home. With its flat-roofed houses painted blue,
red and green, Macao presents a very picturesque
appearance. About one-tenth of the population
are of European birth and extraction ; the balance,
Chinese and half-castes.
From Hong-Kong to Canton. 291
"«S ■-•*»"%>>
I now returned to Hong-Kong, and took a river
steamboat for Canton. There were four Europeans
on board besides myself, and 800 Chinese. The
four Europeans were managers of the English pas-
senger steamer, which appeared to do a rushing
business. This steamboat ride proved one of the
most interesting experiences in my inland travel.
There are rueeed ranges of hills on either side of
the bay, clothed in dark green foliage from their
summits down to the water's edge. Steep acclivities
and lofty peaks add to the picturesqueness of the
scene.
The Chinese, on this seven-hours trip, occupied
themselves in smoking opium, drinking tea and
gambling. Gaming is prohibited in China, but is
nevertheless carried on everywhere, and is indulged
in by old and young with a passion which in some
instances almost amounts to madness. All legisla-
tion on this subject has been overpowered by the
habits of the people, and China is, in fact, one vast
gaming house. The Chinese are industrious and
economical, but are possessed of an immoderate
love of gain and a taste for speculation, which
easily tempts them to gambling when not engaged
in business. The habit once formed, they seldom
recover from it. They cast aside every obligation
of duty and family, and live only for cards and dice.
When they have lost all their money, they will play
for their homes, their lands, their wives, and some-
292 Around the World.
times even for the clothes they have on. This
passion for gambling has invaded all classes of so-
ciety, and men, women and children all play. The
lower classes, however, are the most inveterate and
determined gamblers. In almost every street of
the large towns, you meet little ambulating gaming
tables, with a pair of dice placed in a cup upon a
stool, which prove an almost irresistible attraction
to the workman returning from his daily labor.
Once yielding to this temptation, he ever afterward
finds it more difficult to withstand it, and often
loses the whole of his hard earnings in a few hours.
Twelve miles before arriving at Canton, we
touched at Whampoa. Only steamers are allowed
to go up to Canton ; sailing vessels are restricted
to anchorage here. Owing to the rise of the tide
and the nature of the ground, it was found advan-
tageous to construct docks at this place. Taking
advantage of these facilities, large numbers of for-
eign vessels enter here, and their cargoes are gen-
erally transported to Canton in small boats. On
arriving at Whampoa a lively scene ensued. The
river from bank to bank was lined with water craft
containing Chinese boatmen and boatwomen, all
yelling and screaming to attract the attention of
the passengers toward their respective boats. The
scene was a noisy but amusing one.
According to the Chinese, Canton has existed as
a city for forty centuries, and traces are found of
The Walls and Gates. 293
the existence of a city on this site twelve hundred
years before our era. Although in the same parallel
of latitude as Calcutta, the climate is much cooler,
and is considered superior to that of most places
in the tropics. Canton is situated on the Canton
or Pearl River, about eighty miles from its
mouth and ninety miles from Hong-Kong. This
river is navigable 300 miles further into the inte-
rior. The part of Canton enclosed by walls is
about six miles in circumference, and a partition
wall runs through the city from east to west, divid-
ing it into two unequal parts. The northern and
larger division is called the old city, and the south-
ern the new city. The walls of the city are of
brick, and are about twenty-five feet high and
twenty feet thick. There are twelve gates, four of
which are in the partition wall. The gates are
shut all night : in the day a guard is stationed at
each to preserve order. For four or five miles op-
posite Canton, boats are ranged parallel to each
other in such close order that they resemble a float-
ing city. These boats are occupied by families,
who remain almost constantly on the water.
The Chinese Government has never favored
foreign commerce, and Canton was for a long time
the only seat of British trade with China. It was
no doubt fixed upon by the Chinese Government
as the seat for European trade, on account of
its distance from Peking. Formerly only a lim-
294 Around the World.
ited number of Chinese merchants were allowed to
trade with foreigners, and they were usually men
of large property, and famed for the integrity of
their transactions. All foreign cargoes passed
through the hands of these merchants, and return
cargoes were furnished by them. They became
security for custom-house duties, and it was crimi-
nal for any other merchant to engage in the trade
with foreigners. The foreign trade with Canton
was naturally damaged by the opening of Shang-
hai and the ports on the Yang-tse ; but still it re-
mains of considerable importance.
Probably one reason why the Chinese care so
little for foreign commerce is that their internal
trade is so extensive. It employs vessels of all
kinds and sizes, which are constantly traversing the
rivers and canals, by which the empire is watered
throughout its whole extent. This trade consists
principally in the exchange of grain, salt, metal,
and the productions of the various provinces.
China is such a vast country, and its resources
are so varied, that its internal trade alone is abun-
dantly sufficient to occupy that part of the nation
which is devoted to mercantile pursuits. The
channels of communication, though oftentimes
inconvenient, are always thronged with merchan-
dise, which is carried in boats, on carts, on the
backs of men and on beasts of burden.
The European settlement in Shamein is con-
Suburbs of Canton. 295
nected with Canton by two bridges. On the con-
clusion of peace, in 1861, it became necessary to
provide a foreign settlement for merchants whose
factories had been destroyed, and it was finally de-
cided to appropriate as the British settlement an
extensive mud-flat, known as the Shamein. This
site having been leased, it was converted into an
artificial island by building around it a massive
embankment of granite. Between the northern
side of the site and the Chinese suburbs, a canal
100 feet wide was constructed, thus forming an
island 1 2,850 feet long by 950 wide. The Shamein
settlement possesses many advantages. It is close
to the western suburbs of Canton, where all the
wholesale dealers and the principal merchants
reside. It faces a broad channel, known as the
Macao Passage, up which blows a cool breeze in
summer; and the river opposite it affords a safe
and commodious anchorage for steamers of 1,000
tons burthen.
As I have mentioned before, some months prior
to my visit to China the French and Chinese had
had a difficulty, in which Admiral Courbet sank
eleven Chinese ships, and at the present time it
was unsafe for any Frenchman to enter the interior
of China. As the Chinese are always more or less
hostile to foreigners, I was warned that it was not
considered wise for tourists to try to visit the inte-
rior until the bad feeling against the French had
296 Around the World.
in a measure subsided. When I found myself the
only tourist traveling between Hong-Kong and
Canton, I began to think that probably the appre-
hensions of danger were not entirely groundless.
However, I had come to China with the intention
of visiting the country, and had no idea of con-
tenting- mvself with a view of the outskirts of this
great empire. Having seen Canton outside the
wall, I was possessed with an overwhelming desire
to see the city inside the wall, so thought I would
risk being mistaken for a Frenchman, rather than
go away without seeing some of the country. I
consequently procured a Chinese guide, and sallied
forth. As this coolie said he was an extra good
guide, I agreed to give him extra wages, and we
both decided that seventy-five cents per day would
be a fair valuation for his services.
The preliminaries settled, I followed my Celestial
guide through the nearest gate, and found myself
inside the walls of a city which is said to contain a
million and a half of people. I found my guide
able to speak fairly good pigeon English. I
watched his every movement very closely, as I did
not want to lose him, fearing - I might not be able
to find him again. The people all looked as much
alike to me as the two wheels to a wagon ; but my
guide guarded me very closely, as I represented
seventy-five cents a day to him ; and, as he was to
pilot me for two days, he seemed to consider his
The Passport Demanded. 297
position a money-making one. So we botli watched
each other, — he anxious not to lose me on account
of the money, and I fearful that, if I lost him, I
would never get out alive.
Before we had fairly begun our sight-seeing, I
was approached by some dignified Celestials who
demanded my passport, which was readily shown.
They desired to know my nationality, what I was
there for, etc. I informed them that I was an
American citizen traveling for pleasure, to which
they replied that America and China were like two
brothers, and that I could go where I pleased. I
made little comment on this polite speech, but at
the same time thought that I would be willing to
be a brother to almost anything until I got on the
outside of the city. As I was a stranger rambling
through the city, without any white companions, I
was desirous of keeping on the good side of every-
body.
The streets of Canton are very narrow, varying
from seven to ten feet in width, and are paved with
flat granite blocks. The houses are generally small,
seldom consisting of more than two stories, and
often only one story in height. They are generally
built of adobe or brick, are without verandas, and
entirely open in front, closed only by suspended
bamboo screens. The windows are small, and
rarely of glass, — paper, mica, or some other trans-
parent substance being used. The roofing consists
298 Around the World.
of thin tiles laid in rows, alternately concave and
convex, the latter overlapping the former. The
roofs are of unequal height, as there is a Chinese
superstition to the effect that ill-luck follows eaves
which connect with each other. The houses gen-
erally contain from three to six rooms. The
dwellings of the poorer classes are seldom more
than mud hovels containing but a single room.
In the busy part of the city every house is a
shop, and here we found the productions of every
part of the globe. The Chinese are remarkably
expert men of business. After passing miles of
shops, I came to the conclusion that Canton must
be one of the wealthiest cities in the world, as well
as one of the most interesting-. There is a striking
contrast between the poverty-stricken coolies and
the better classes. The former have the appear-
ance of having a hard time to eke out an existence.
They live in miserable hovels, and amble through
the streets about three-fourths naked, carrying
heavily loaded baskets filled with bones, rags, and
truck of every description. These baskets are car-
ried by the means of a pole stretched across the
shoulders. The streets are so narrow that they
are impassable for carriages, the only vehicles used
being sedan chairs carried by the coolies. These
are found in immense numbers, and offer their
services at very low rates. The city is divided into
quarters for the various kinds of business, almost
300 Around the World.
every trade or occupation having its own separate
quarter. Provisions of all kinds are abundant and
»
cheap.
Few large cities can compare with Canton in
point of salubrity of climate. The temples and
public buildings are numerous ; but few of them
present features worthy of special remark. The
temples are much more attractive inside than out,
as they are not stately and imposing like those of
Japan and India. In fact, there are not many im-
posing buildings in Canton. Chinese taste does
not seem to move in that direction. The space in
front of the temples is generally occupied by beg-
gars, hucksters and idlers, many of them most
pitiful-looking specimens of humanity. By the
way they stared at me and followed me around, I
must have been almost as much of a curiosity to
them as they were to me.
The first objects that would probably attract the
attention of a stranger on entering Canton are the
two pagodas which are situated near the western
gate of the old city. One of these, called the plain
pagoda, is about i.ooq. years old, and rises in an
angular, tapering tower to the height of 160 feet.
The other, an octagonal pagoda, has nine stories,
is 170 feet in height, and was erected 1,300 years
ago.
There are 125 temples, pavilions, and other
religious edifices in the city. I believe that I der
The Temples of Canton. 301
rived more satisfaction from visiting the temples
than from anything- else. The most important one
was the Temple of Five Hundred Gods, or
"Flowery Forest," as it is called, remarkable for
the great number of colossal wooden figures of all
colors, with grotesque or hideous faces, which are
arranged in close order around the walls of the
room. These are the guardian genii of China.
The Hall of Worship is sixty feet square, and in
the centre is a gigantic carved statue, in a sitting
posture, representing Buddha. It was quite a
sight to see the numerous idols, it being on a
grander scale than anything that I had seen in the
Orient.
In this temple I also saw a statue of Marco
Polo, whose father and uncle were the first Euro-
peans to reach China, of whom we have any
knowledge. They visited it in 1260, meeting with
great favor from Kublai, the reigning Emperor,
who decided to send them back as his envoys to
the Pope, with letters requesting him to send a
large body of educated men to instruct his people
in Christianity. The brothers returned home in
1269, and found that Pope Clement IV. had died
the year before, and no new pope had been chosen.
After a delay of two years, they started, not with
the hundred teachers, as requested by Kublai, but
with two Dominicans, who lost heart and turned
back in the very beginning of the journey. On
802 Around the World.
this trip they took young Marco with them, who, at
the time they arrived at Shangtu, in the spring of
i 275, was twenty-one years old. Upon his arrival,
Marco Polo applied himself diligently to the
acquisition of the language; and Kublai, finding
him both clever and discreet, employed him in the
public service, and sent him on many distant mis-
sions. As the years rolled by, the Polos were
anxious to return home ; but Kublai was unwilling
to let them go. They finally, however, effected
their departure, and returned to Venice at the end
of the year 1 295.
The Temple of Longevity is next in importance
to that of the 500 gods. It contains three pavil-
ions, which are well filled with statues and images,
about eighty in number ; and also a colossal statue
in wood, representing an obese old man. Here is
kept a family of storks, which are daily fed by the
attendants. The other temples are much smaller
affairs, and attract little attention after a visit to
the large ones which I have just described, with
the exception of the Buddhist Temple at Honan.
It is called, in Chinese, Hai-chwang-eze, or the
Temple of the Ocean Banner. Its grounds cover
about seven acres, are surrounded by a wall, and
are divided into courts, gardens and burial grounds,
in which are deposited the ashes of the priests,
whose bodies are burned. There are about 1 75
priests connected with this establishment. Near
Idolatries and Superstitions. 303
this temple are undertaking establishments, a fur-
nace for the cremation of the dead, and a mau-
soleum in which to deposit their ashes. The
Temple of Trade is an interesting place to visit
during the Chinese New Year, when one can wit-
ness all the pomp and ceremony attendant upon
that occasion. All sorts of relics can be seen, from
a bronze monkey to a sacred pig.
Another interesting temple is the Temple of the
Sages, which contains seventy bronze images of
Confucius, and wax candles and incense are kept
burning constantly. Certain days of each year are
set apart as a time in which to do honor to the
memory of Confucius. The Temple of Confucius
is of oreat s j ze> The Chinese have some extraor-
dinary ideas or superstitions in regard to their
gods. For instance, they sometimes worship two
Joshes, a good Josh and a bad Josh ; and they will
do more honor, and make more sacrifices, to the
bad than to the good, — and why? They will tell
you that it is because the good one will do no
harm anyway, while it is necessary to placate the
bad one, and keep him from sending you to de-
struction ; so they worship him with a great deal
of pomp and ceremony.
Statues of the most famous personages in the
history of China are seen in the temples. Theat-
rical performances are sometimes given in the front
part of the temples, the charge for admission being
304 Around the World.
ten cash, or one cent. The music at one of these
theatres is of the silliest and most monotonous
sort, and there are seldom over two or three per-
formers. To me the most ludicrous feature of the
entertainment was the loud and frequent laughter
and applause, when there seemed nothing to laugh
at. Another peculiarity is, that the performances
seemed to be all alike. However, I have never
regretted the ten cash invested in Chinese theatres.
The narrow thoroughfares are all more or less
dark and gloomy, owing to the fact that the streets
are so narrow, and the houses so close together.
In some instances, the upper stories of the houses
are built out over the street, and this excludes the
light almost altogether.
There is generally a thorough understanding
between merchants and guides, to the effect that
the latter are to aid the former all they can in the
way of bringing tourists to their shops. As
European and American travelers generally invest
largely in costly articles and numerous curiosities,
as mementoes of their journey,,and as presents for
the friends at home, it is quite an item to secure
this patronage. The shops are all filled with costly
wares, such as silks, lacquered goods, porcelain,
ivory and curios of all kinds and descriptions. I
noticed that my guide, in taking me around the
city, never missed an opportunity of dragging me
into one of his favorite shops to make purchases.
In Search of Strange Sights. 305
The guide is always supposed to make his own
commissions in the shape of an extra squeeze of
the traveler's pocket. Even the coolies who car-
ried my sedan chair would occasionally stop in
front of some imposing shop to gladden the heart
of their merchant friend with a sight of the traveler,
thinking, perhaps, he could be induced to buy some
of the beautiful wares that are displayed ; but I
turned out to be a visitor in search of strange sights,
instead of a purchaser of curiosities ; so, after a
brief glance at the tempting display, I would invite
my coolie team to move on.
The majority of the people of China seem to
have less enjoyment and pleasure than the people
of any other country I have visited. You seldom
see them idle their time away, or indulge in any
pastime except that of gambling. They rather
seem to drag out a dreary, monotonous existence,
which mainly consists in working, paying taxes and
dying. I verily believe, from what I saw of them,
that the Chinese are the most industrious race
under the sun. It is work, work, work, on land or
on water ; no rest, no recreation, no play, — always
work.
Prominent among the industries of Canton are
the weaving of silks and other stuffs ; the manu-
facture of porcelain, screens, umbrellas, ivory fans
and many articles too numerous to mention. These
employ thousands of hands, and the products are
20
306 Around the World.
sold at the lowest prices. There are no large
manufacturing establishments, the workmen either
working at home or in small companies. The com-
pensation they receive generally varies from twelve
to twenty-five cents per day.
The rich in China make little display of their
wealth. In fact, they rather try to conceal it ; for
the government has never favored the accumulation
of money or power in the hands of the people.
The lecral rate of interest has been fixed by the
government at thirty per cent, per annum. There
are many reasons assigned for this by Chinese
economists, one of which is that, since money has
borne this high rate of interest, no one thinks of
hoarding it, and the circulation of it has been more
general and continual. Another is that the pur-
pose was to prevent the value of land from increas-
ino- and that of money from diminishing; and that,
in fixing it at a high rate, it has endeavored to
render the distribution of land proportional to the
number of families, and the circulation of money
more active and uniform.
The cultivators of the soil in China are extremely
poor, never accumulating capital. This may be
owing to the land laws, although they correspond
to some of the advanced ideas of modern agrarian
theorists. All waste lands belong to the crown;
but any one who brings them under cultivation
acquires a clear title, and can freely dispose of the
Tenants and Rents. 307
/
property. The property of a deceased person
passes to his male children in equal shares, and can
not be bequeathed away from them. The greater
part of the soil is owned in small tracts varying
from five acres down to one-sixth of an acre. The
possession of ten acres is considered well to do,
and the owner of an estate of 1,000 acres is con-
sidered a millionaire. Over two-thirds of the land
is cultivated by tenants on the half-profit system,
the landlord providing the houses and paying the
taxes; and the cultivator or renter, the simple im-
plements and his labor. One bad season reduces
these tenants to beggary. In the vast territory of
the Chinese Empire, some district is stricken by
famine nearly every year, either by drouths, floods,
locusts, or in consequence of an insurrection.
My guide was very talkative, and seemed to de-
light in my questions about the manners, customs,
habits and beliefs of his people. He informed mc,
with a great deal of pride, that the Chinese were
the greatest and oldest nation on earth, and seemed
to consider their religion a great improvement on
ours. He thought their gods, made with their own
hands, much better and purer than our unseen God.
Their superstitions and religion, or rather want of
religion, is the outgrowth of centuries of unbelief
and idolatrous worship. Missionary work in China
has not been attended with the same success that
it has experienced in Japan and India ; for the
308 Around the World.
Chinese are not so receptive as these nations, and,
as a matter of fact, are completely indifferent to
religious matters. The government does not favor
Christianity ; they look with suspicion upon the
missionaries and their teachings, and imagine that,
under a pretense of religion, they are really man-
oeuvring to overthrow the empire.
The Chinese are about as far behind civilization
and scientific research as they are in matters of
religion, are perfectly satisfied with things as they
are, and have no desire for improvement or
advancement. They have no railroads, and do not
want any, saying that, if the time ever comes that
they should want them, they will build them them-
selves without any advice, assistance or interference
from Europeans. They think that the introduction
of modern inventions would work hardship on the
laboring classes, as it would deprive them of em-
ployment.
My guide would have done for a Mormon, had
he lived in Utah, as he told me he had three wives,
and that, as soon as he could earn eighty dollars,
he would buy another. A wife, he said, cost any-
where from eighty to one hundred and forty dol-
lars, according to her age and beauty ; and a man
is privileged to have as many wives as he can
afford to keep. The first wife, however, is always
the mistress of the house, and the others are sub-
ordinate to her.
A Novel Bill of Fare. 309
My guide took me for a promenade on the high
wall, from which I could look out over the city,
with its masses of low, flat houses ; could see the
bustle and hear the yelling and screaming of the
people who thronged the streets. It seemed a
veritable Babylon.
The execution ground is an interesting place to
visit. Here sometimes twenty-five or thirty crim-
inals are executed at once, and the average number
of criminals beheaded yearly is said to be 350.
The worst class of criminals are cut to pieces upon
the cross. Shops where idols are made and re-
paired, are also places of interest. The Arsenal,
where they have a large number of breech-loading
guns, presents a lively scene, for 400 Celestials are
kept constantly employed here.
Last, but not least, I was taken to a Chinese
restaurant, where everything was served in regular
Chinese style. The bill of fare consisted of dainty
dishes, such as bird's-nest 'soup, sweetmeats, roast
cat, shark's fins, raw fish, roast frog, rice and tea,
for which we had neither sugar nor milk. I par-
took freely of the tea, and sparingly of the roast
cat. This is a fair sample of the edibles at a
Chinese restaurant or hotel. There are no Euro-
pean hotels inside the wall in Canton.
Another great industry in Canton, which I had
almost forgotten to mention, is the tea-drying estab-
lishments, where teas are cured and colored. The
310 Around the World.
tea production is one of the most important of the
resources of China, and a million and a half tons
of tea are produced annually. This gives employ-
ment to thousands of people, as the tea goes through
a number of processes from the time it is gathered
until it is ready for the market. The cultivation
of rice probably ranks next in importance to that
of tea, and these two products form the chief staple
of food of the Chinese. The cultivation of rice
is similar to that of grain, although, unless grown
on damp, marshy ground, it has to be irrigated.
Canton is situated in the Province of Kwang-tung,
which is one of the most productive in the empire.
In addition to the cultivation of tea and rice, silk
is produced in the district forming the river delta,
which extends from Canton to Macao. Sugar is
orown on the banks of all the rivers, and at Lo-
ting. 1 50 miles east of Canton, matting, fire-crackers,
sugar and palm-leaf fans are annually exported to
the number of four or five million to New York
alone. Three large coal fields exist in this province.
The highest official in Canton is the Tsoung-tow,
or Governor-General, called Viceroy by the Euro-
peans. He is appointed by the Emperor for a
term of three years, and his jurisdiction extends
over the Province of Kwang-tung and Kwang-se.
There is also a Fou-youen, or Sub-Governor. The
Tsoune-tow has the general control of all the civil
and military affairs. The Fou-youen exercises a
Dwarfing the Feet. 311
similar kind of authority, but is more especially
charged with the civil administration.
A peculiar custom in China is that the aristocracy
keep their women in seclusion. They rarely leave
their residences, and are seldom seen in the shops.
When it becomes necessary for them to go from
one place to another, they are transported through
the streets in a sedan chair, or jinrikishia, with
their faces entirely concealed from view by a heavy
veil. You will hardly ever see a woman on foot in
the streets of a Chinese city, unless she belongs to
the coolie order. One of the strangest and most
usual customs which prevail among the upper
classes is the habit of compressing the feet of the
women, a fashion dating, it is said, from the highest
antiquity. From the time a little girl is born, her
feet are compressed with tight bandages, which
hinder their growth. Girls whose feet have not
been properly tortured by bandages in infancy find
it no easy matter to get married, especially if they
are ambitious to marry a person of high rank. It
is looked upon as a disgrace in China to be an old
maid. The women of the lower class are not so
particular about the size of their feet, and there are
probably many coolie women who have never had
shoes on their feet.
Women are considered inferior beings in China,
and have to endure all kinds of privation, contempt
and degradation. When a son is born, there is
312 Arotmd the World.
great rejoicing ; but the birth of a daughter is often
regarded as a humiliation and disgrace to the family.
A man is everything ; a woman, nothing. A young
Chinese girl lives shut up in the house where she
was born, and is treated by everybody as a menial.
She is not taught to read or to write, her sole edu-
cation consisting in learning how to use the needle.
When she is old enough to be married, her husband
is selected for her by her parents. She is never
consulted, oftentimes does not even know the name
of the man she is to marry. A young girl is simply
an object of traffic, a piece of merchandise, to be
sold to the highest bidder.
In many parts of China, female children are
drowned or suffocated soon after they are born.
There are numerous reasons for this ; but the
principal cause is the poverty of the parents. The
birth of a male child is looked upon as a blessing,
as a boy is soon able to work and help his parents,
who rely upon him as a main* support in their old
age. A girl, on the contrary, is regarded as a mere
burden. In certain localities, where the cultivation
of cotton and the silk-worm industry furnish young
girls with suitable occupation, they are allowed to
live, and their parents are even unwilling to see
them marry. Self-interest is the supreme motive
of all Chinese.
After spending several days in Canton, in which
time I devoted myself to seeing the strange sights,
The Ruj-al Districts. 313
and finding out what I could in regard to the man-
ners, customs and social usages of this peculiar
people, I made arrangements to visit the rural dis-
tricts, as I wished to see something- of the interior
of China, outside of the great cities. The first
step in this direction was to hire a couple of coolies
and a sedan chair, and I was soon carried out
among the rice fields and tea plantations. I also
visited the silk districts. This is a peculiarly pro-
ductive and fruitful region, and the whole country
looks like a garden. The land is under the hio-hest
state of cultivation, and every nook and corner is
well fertilized, irrigated, and covered with a vigor-
ous growth of vegetation. Tropical fruits attain
the highest perfection. The oranges, for example,
though smaller than the Los Angeles orange, were
the sweetest and best flavored of any I have ever
eaten. Everywhere could be seen instances of the
untiring industry and energy of the Chinese. All
manual labor is done* by hand, and no machinery is
used, either in planting or gathering their crops.
Much of the land is so fertile, and cultivated with
so much care and skill, that three harvests a year
are regularly gathered.
Next to rice, silk and tea, probably the most
valuable production of China is the bamboo, which
yields a large revenue. The uses to which it is
applied are many and important. There are sixty-
three varieties of bamboo in the Chinese Empire,
314 Around the World.
and a bamboo forest will yield a considerable
revenue if the owner understands how to regulate
the cutting. The cultivation of useful vegetables
is an industry to which the Chinese have always
been especially devoted, and has always attracted
the attention and received the encouragement of
the government.
Of all my journeyings in China, I found traveling
on the rivers the liveliest and most amusing-, The
bays and rivers are all whitened with water craft of
every kind and description, and the water, if any-
thing, seems to be more populous than the towns.
The boats are built in all sorts of fantastic shapes,
— some like houses, others shaped like a fish ; and
all sorts of extraordinary figures have been chosen
for models. Some are of the rudest construction,
and others fitted up with considerable pretensions
to elegance. These boats cruise around inces-
santly, without ever coming into collision with each
other, and their skill in this respect is really won-
derful ; but, then, they are born, live and die upon
the water.
Everything necessary for subsistence can be
found upon these boats. Some are nothing more
nor less than provision shops; others are small
bazaars; and the occupants of others are busily
engaged in selling fruit, flowers, fresh fish, soup,
rice, cakes, and many articles too numerous to men-
tion. To add to the confusion of the scene at
Meagre Pay and Cheap Living. 315
night, they were incessantly beating the tom-tom
and letting off fire-crackers. This river population,
however, does not enjoy a very enviable reputation
for intelligence, honesty or morality. It was a
matter of wonder to me, at first, how they man-
aged to keep their little children from being
drowned ; but I soon discovered how they did it.
They would tie a rope to the child's arm or body,
and fasten the other end to the boat, or else they
would tie an empty bottle, or some other hollow
vessel that would answer in place of a life-
preserver, to the child's body. Accidents to these
children are almost unknown ; they are apparently
not born to be drowned.
As another illustration of how poorly labor is
remunerated in China, I will state that on one
occasion I had a dozen shirts washed and ironed
on one of these river craft, for which they charged
me the small sum of thirty cents. The Chinese
have reduced the cost of living to the lowest pos-
sible figure, and an entire family can subsist
comfortably, and have fish, rice, tea and vegeta-
bles for ten cents per day. In the southern
provinces the climate is warm and balmy, and very
little clothing is needed for comfort, even in the
winter months, and very little is worn by the lower
classes. In mid-winter you will see people almost
destitute of clothing.
In the interior of China there are extensive
816 Around the World.
timber regions ; but no effort has ever been made
to protect these forests, and they are fast disappear-
ing. That is not to be wondered at, however,
when civilized people in our own country are de-
nuding our mountains of their magnificent growths
of timber in the most reckless manner, and no
effort is made to stop this vandalism. In swampy
lands grow willow and bamboo, which are exten-
sively used in the manufacture of furniture. China
is also rich in mineral deposits ; but for many
reasons this resource has never been developed.
They have not the requisite facilities, and transpor-
tation, except along the lines of the rivers and
canals, is exceedingly slow and tedious. There
are vast pastoral regions in China; but very little
attention is paid to stock-raising, and the horses
are small, and not so valuable as those found in
other countries.
It will thus be seen that the resources of China
are vast and various, and, in addition to the va-
riety of its natural productions, it possesses an
inestimable boon in the industry of its inhabitants.
The Chinese Government does not know how to
turn to account the immense resources of the em-
pire. Should the day ever come that this land
shall have a wise and judicious ruler, one who is
animated by a zeal for the public good, and has
patience enough to guide this industrious people
into new and untried fields of labor, the condi-
Coolie Tandem Team. 317
tion of the lower classes will be considerably
ameliorated.
In the interior of China, off from the line of the
water-courses and canals, and especially in the
mountainous districts, the roads are very rough
and narrow, and in the remoter regions are more
like trails than roads. On bad roads, the sedan
chair, or palanquin, is much used, and is the most
comfortable conveyance. A team of four coolies
can travel at the rate of six miles an hour. On
good roads the two-wheeled jinrikishia is the pref-
erable conveyance, the motive power generally
being a tandem team of two coolies, although
occasionally in some districts a horse is used.
The following was written from Canton to the
Modesto, Cal., Herald:
LETTER FROM CANTON.
Canton, China, Dec. 24, 1885.
Editor Herald: — Since the last notes I sent you from India, I have
traveled some 15,000 miles more on the Orient side of the globe. I came
over the Indian Ocean, around to Australia. This was a pleasant journey
with a calm sea. In Australia I traveled about 6,000 miles by land and
water. In the interior I went by railway 1,200 miles, including the principal
portions of her farming and mineral districts, and in many respects I found
Australia to be a poor country, especially in the line of agriculture. The
last four years have been a succession of drouths, and have been severely
felt by sheep and stock men, as well as teamsters. Harvest had just com-
menced when I was there, but it will only be small strips of grain that will
be cut. The best I saw was in Adelaide and Melbourne valleys and in Vic-
toria; but these had poor impression on my mind favorable to an agricultural
country New South Wales and Queensland, in many parts, were dry as a
bone, and destitute of vegetation. Water-courses had run dry, and a great
number of stock had perished, and the balance was on the brink of starvation.
318 Around the World.
Australia will have to import wheat largely this year from New Zealand or
other places ; but the rise and fall in wheat does not trouble my mind.
Enjoying sights and the customs and manners among the different nations
on the globe, is at present the height of my ambition.
From Australia I embarked for China by way of Torres Strait,
Manila, and the Philippine Islands. Here the tropical fruits and foliage were
growing in profusion. The green hillsides had the appearance of beautiful
landscapes. The first half of the passage was the hottest since I crossed
the Red Sea. While we were sailing in the tropics, over the Gulf of Carpen-
taria, near the Equator, it was 10S degrees in the cabin saloon. This seems
warm for December; but it had to be endured. The last part of this voyage
has been a stormy one over the China Sea. The rolling waves have washed
the hurricane decks from stem to stern. However, the faithful iron steamer
has plunged through the swell of the sea, and anchored us safely in the
Flowery Kingdom.
After I had done the principal sights of Hong-Kong, I took a steamer up
the Pearl River ninety miles to Canton, the Paris of China, and here I
expect to eat my bird's-nest soup to-morrow for Christmas dinner. I have
seen many curious sights in Canton, including the largest temple, with its 500
Joshes. Here I had to ride in the sedan chairs in the narrow streets, carried
by two Chinamen, but found it cheaper to make use of the coolies' legs
than to wear out my own. Here you see the style for the ladies to pinch
their feet instead of Modestoans who pinch their waists.
After I have visited all the leading points of interest in the Celestial
Empire, I will extend my tour to Japan, and, after sightseeing in that
country to my satisfaction, I will embark for San Francisco by way of Hono-
lulu, and my trip around the world will be about 50,000 miles, or long
enough to have earned the right to be in fellowship with other " Globe
Trotters." Truly yours, Osmun Johnson.
Chinese Fishing Fleets. 319
CHAPTER XVII.
CHINESE COAST AND SHANGHAI.
Having finished my tour in the interior of China,
I returned to Hong-Kong, where I embarked for
Shanghai on the steamer Thibet, belonging to the
P. and O. Steamship Company, Captain Moody
commanding. The greater part of the voyage we
were in sight of the China shore. Along this coast
is a range of mountains, or hills, apparently desti-
tute of vegetation, and here and there a peak
towering high above the level of the others adds to
the picturesqueness of the scene. It was now the
typhoon season, and we met with a heavy gale
which sent one of our life-boats into the boisterous
sea. This storm, however, was of short duration,
and we did not feel its effects so much as if we had
been in the open ocean, instead of being so near
the coast. Four hundred miles from Shanghai is
a place called Turnabout, which is a diverging place
for steamers.
The principal objects of interest on this route
were the Chinese fishing fleets, and we would often
see as many as fifty of these boats in a group.
They are divided off into pairs, and drift leisurely
320 Around the Woi'ld.
along until their boats are filled, when they take
their cargo to one of the principal ports and dispose
of it. The fish are usually either dried or salted.
As the Chinese waters are teeming with all kinds
of fish, this industry forms one of the principal re-
sources of the people along the coast, and they
carry it on the year around, regardless of typhoons,
monsoons, or any of the perils of the deep.
The principal ports at which we touched on this
voyage were Svvatow, Foochow, Ningpo and Amoy.
These are regular coaling stations for the different
lines of steamers that ply along the Chinese coast.
Boats often take refuse in these harbors to avoid
being shipwrecked by the fearful gales which pre-
vail during the typhoon season. Swatow is a sea-
port town in the Province of Kwang-tung. It has
a good harbor, and carries on quite an extensive
commerce.
Amoy is in the Province of Fokien. It is situ-
ated on the slope of a hill on the southern coast of
a small and barren island ; is a larcje and exceed-
ingly dirty place, about nine miles in circumference,
and is estimated to have a population of 250,000.
Both its foreign and coast trade are extensive and
valuable, and its native merchants are considered
to be among the wealthiest and most enterprising
in China. Amoy was captured by the British in
1 84 1, and was one of the five ports opened by the
commerce of Great Britain by the treaty of 1842.
Foochow. 321
Foochow is the capital of Fokien, and is situ-
ated 150 miles north of Amoy. Foil signifies, in
China, a town of the first order ; tckeou, a town of
the second order ; and tsien, a town of the third
order. These three orders of towns are always
enclosed by ramparts. Foochow is surrounded by
a wall seven miles in extent, and from twenty to
twenty-five feet high. There are seven gates in
this wall, over each of which are hig"h towers.
Outside of each gate are large suburbs, the most
extensive being those on the south side of the city,
which are called Nanti. These extend southward
four miles along both sides of the river, and com-
municate, by two bridges, with a small, densely
populated island called Chungchow. The nor-
thern bridcre is called the Bridge of Ten Thousand
Ages, and is said to be over 800 years old.
The city is irregularly built, and the houses are of
wood, and usually one story high. The streets are
paved with granite, and in many instances planted
with trees ; but they are exceedingly filthy and
narrow, and are infested with beggars, whose
appearance is loathsome in the extreme. A great
number of the inhabitants live in boats on the
river. Some of the residences of the civil and
military officers of the province are handsome
buildings, and the temples are numerous. A
singular feature of Foochow is the great number
of towers erected in all parts of the city, — on the
2i
322 Around the World.
walls, over the streets, and even on the house-
tops, — some of which are covered with grotesque
ornaments. There are several cotton, paper and
hardware manufactories here, also several hundred
furnaces for making porcelain. There are lead
mines near by, and great tea-growing districts
within seventy miles. The commerce of this city
is chiefly with Japan and the maritime provinces of
China. This port is much frequented. The chan-
nel of the river, and a sheet of water called Lihu,
or West Lake, on the western side of the city, is
crowded with all kinds of vessels and floating habi-
tations.
Ningpo, the principal city of the Province of
Cheh-kiang, is situated on the Takia or Ningpo
River, about sixteen miles from its mouth. It
stands in a fertile plain, and is surrounded by a
fine old wall twenty-five feet high, sixteen feet
broad, and from four to five miles in circumference.
There are six gates and two passages for ships, in
this wall. Ningpo contains a population of about
a half a million. In ascending the river the huge
ice-houses, with high thatched roofs, and a large
white tower, which rises to the height of 160 feet,
and has fourteen stories, will attract the eye of the
stranger. This place has long been celebrated for
its religious and educational pre-eminence, and con-
tains a large number of temples, monasteries and
colleges, few of them of any architectural preten-
Shanghai. 323
&
sions. In the centre of the city is a striking
structure called the Drum Tower, which dates
from before the fifteenth century. Brick is the
ordinary building material, and the dwelling houses
are mostly one story. Large salt works are carried
on in the vicinity of Ningpo. Between the months
of April and July, thousands of fishermen are
engaged in catching cuttle-fish.
Shanghai is situated on the western bank of
Hwang-pu River, about twelve miles from the point
where the river empties into the estuary of the
Yang-tse-kiang. It seems more like a part of the
ocean than a river, however, as it is so wide at its
mouth that both banks can not be seen at the same
time. The walls which surround the city are about
three and one-half miles in circumference, and are
pierced by seven gates. The old or native por-
tion of the town may be said to illustrate all of the
worst features of Chinese cities. The streets are
narrow and dirty, and there is an entire absence of
all sanitary arrangements; in fact, the native town
has nothing but its geographical position to recom-
mend it. However, as it possesses a good and
commodious anchorage, and is easy of access to
the ocean, it forms the principal port of Central
China. From the western wall of the city, there
stretches a rich alluvial plain which extends over
an area of 45,000 square miles, and is intersected
by numerous waterways and great chains of lakes.
324 Around the World.
Old and New Shanghai are said to have a com-
bined population of 500,000 inhabitants, including
the boat population, which numbers over 11,000.
On anchoring at Shanghai, we were, as is usual
in Chinese ports, surrounded by the moon-eyed
runners of both sexes, in their rickety sampans,
who seemed considerably more anxious that the
passengers should be conveyed from the ship to
the shore than the passengers themselves were. A
landing; being- effected, we found the wharf lined
with traveling chairs and jinrikishias. After select-
ing my sedan chair, I was carried along by the
two coolies at a lively rate, and proceeded at once
to take observations on the Oriental and Occi-
dental sights which I passed, finding them to be
many and interesting, especially in the Chinese
quarters.
Both portions of the town are situated on nearly
level ground, the part occupied by the foreign
population stretching along the banks of the River
Hwang-pu, and there are many handsome dwellings
and extensive warehouses. The public buildings,
especially in the British settlement, are large and
fine, and what was once a reed-covered swamp is
now one of the finest cities in the East. In strolling
with my guide from the European to the native
town, I found the contrast to be most striking.
On one hand were lofty mansions, and broad, clean
streets, where occasionally one would get a glimpse
Oriental and Occidental Life. 325
of some fair European damsel, which, here let me
remark, are exceedingly scarce in Asia. To my
mind, they will always outshine the native beauties,
no matter how high the rank or how small the feet.
In the Chinese city were narrow streets or lanes,
which seemed to run in every direction but the
right one.
The commerce of Shanghai is said to be more
extensive than that of any other port in the Eastern
world, not excepting Calcutta or Bombay. In the
European settlement, Great Britain, America,
Germany and France are represented. The native
city presents a strange conglomeration of wealth
and poverty. By the side of the merchant clothed
in a costly silken robe, could be seen the professional
beggar, or the poor coolie, whose only covering
was filthy rags, and who was loaded down like a
pack animal with his heavy bamboo baskets. Here
was the child of the Orient, and there the traveler
from foreign lands. The streets were filled with
people, some riding comfortably along in their
traveling chairs, others peddling curios and simple
wares. It was certainly a strange conglomeration.
I had now come to the conclusion that all of the
largfe Chinese cities bear a close resemblance to
each other, and, when you have seen one, with the
exception of a few variations, you have seen them
all. I found the saying, " that, when you have seen
Canton, you have seen the best and worst of China,"
326 Around the World.
to be true. There is the same life, the same bustle,
the same confusion, the same idolatrous worship
of Brahma, Buddha or Confucius, as the case may
be, — the same everything.
As my visit to China occurred in mid-winter, my
tour did not extend to Peking, and I thereby
missed getting even a glimpse of the youthful
Emperor's palace. The principal visitors to Peking
are diplomates. As it is in the extreme northern
portion of the empire, it is not generally visited
by many travelers ; and I was frequently told, that,
when I had seen Shanghai and Canton, I had seen
the best of China.
While there was much, of course, that I left
unseen, I had traveled over a considerable area in
the Chinese Empire, and had spent some little time
among this strange people, with whose habits and
customs I had already become to some extent
familiar from my observations among them in
California, where they have become quite numerous
since the discovery of gold in 1849, but wnose
coming is now restricted by acts of Congress and
treaty stipulations. Much more knowledge, how-
ever, was to be gained of them in their own
country, and the time passed among them was
pleasantly and profitably spent.
I must now bid adieu to the Flowery Kingdom,
and resume my journey eastward.
From China to Japan. 327
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE YELLOW SEA, AND COAST AND COAST TOWNS
OF JAPAN.
On the 15th of February I embarked at
Shanghai on the steamer Costa Rica for Nagasaki,
in Japan, and we were soon drifting into the Yellow
Sea, with the last objects of the Celestial Empire
gradually fading from our view. With a stiff mon-
soon breeze in our favor, we soon crossed the
Yang-tsi bar, and in forty-eight hours the beautiful
coast of Japan appeared before us. The Yellow
Sea, whose waters mingle with those of the China
Sea, is noted for being very boisterous. Typhoon
gales, causing shipwrecks, are of frequent occur-
rence ; but fortunately our voyage was brief and
pleasant, and without accident or incident worthy
of note. Nagasaki, the first seaport city in Japan,
is of considerable commercial importance, and is
also a great coaling station for several large steam-
ship lines. Coal is the staple export.
The first feature of interest noticed in sailing
into this port is the long, narrow harbor, which
appeared to be rim-bound by lofty and uniform
ranges of hills. This harbor, next to Sydney and
328 Around the World.
Hong-Kong, is the most beautiful in the world.
The sloping, picturesque hills in the background,
cultivated, as they are, to perfection by terrace
farming, present, from their tops to the water's
edge, a variety of tropical plants, and add greatly
to the beauty of the city's surroundings. The
highest of these hills is called Hicockson, from
which I obtained a most excellent view of the city,
its harbor, and the surrounding country. Many
vessels lay at anchor, among others two American
ships, with the stars and stripes flying to the breeze,
and serving as a reminder that every day was now
bringing me nearer home.
The population of Nagasaki is about 15,000,
consisting principally of Japanese, with about 300
Europeans. The principal points of interest in
the city are the pagodas, public bath houses, tea
houses and fifteen temples for worshipers of
Buddha. Buddhism is the religion of the country.
Foreign missionaries of various denominations
have done much to convert the people to Chris-
tianity, and both Catholics and Protestants have
houses of worship here, where they have met with
better success in their work than in other parts of
Asia.
Japan, however, has few missionaries compared
to the extent of the field before them ; and it will
require more than a mere handful of Christian
men to remove the superstitious faith of 37,000,000
Japanese Enterprise. 329
heathens imbued with the idolatrous practice and
teaching of Buddhism. But the work done so
far has been well done ; and, however slow the
good work maybe going on, the natives are gradu-
ally abandoning the old faith for the new, and there
are marked evidences everywhere, that the Jap-
anese are a more progressive race, with a higher
civilization, than their celestial neighbors across
the Yellow Sea. They are fast imitating Euro-
peans in all the arts and sciences, and a large
number of their young men are sent to Europe
and America to be educated in the best institutions
of learning. The Japanese officials and people of
rank are imitating Europeans in dress and customs
to a small extent ; but the people of the lower
orders do not seem to have either means or desire
to imitate anything, and the men and women
among them dress much the same.
One of the sights which most attracted my atten-
tion in Nagasaki was the women stevedores. I
saw fifty Japanese women loading our vessel with
coal. They were strung out in a line, standing six
feet apart on planks, the line reaching from the
coal barge to the steamer ; and in this manner the
coal was transferred in little bags by being tossed
from one woman to another alone the line until its
destination was reached. Another gang, consist-
ing of small girls, were similarly engaged in
tossing back the empty bags to be refilled, and in
Japanese Woman Spinning Silk.
(330)
The ''Inland Sea." 331
this way 400 tons of coal was transferred from the
barge to the steamer within four hours. These
little Japanese coolie women, dressed in rags, were
as active as cats until their task was finished ; and
their weather-beaten complexions were in no wise
beautified by handling the coal. This novel piece
of drudgery was my first sight of women acting as
stevedores ; but, while it might be a novel one in
San Franciscb or New York, it was not along the
shores of Japan.
I visited with much interest the tea houses and
the various temples, through which I was piloted
by my guide. Before entering these sacred pre-
cincts, my shoes had to be removed, and I walked
over the floors in my stocking feet while viewing
the glittering bronze images representing their
idolatrous religion. These temples are as sacred
to these heathens as St. Peter's is to the Romans.
Christianity is to-day protected in Japan, and
Nagasaki is now, as it has been in former years,
the nursery of the Christian religion on the island.
At present there are about 50,000 of various
denominations in this vicinity who are devotees of
the Christian faith.
After taking in all the sights at this place, I
embarked for Yokohama by way of the " Inland
Sea," visiting several seaports along the coast.
After leaving the harbor of Nagasaki, we passed
through a narrow entrance guarded by fortifica-
332 Around the World.
tions, and the next object that came in sight was
Papenberg Island, from which many thousand
Christians were hurled into the sea over 200 years
ago, in an attempt to forever abolish Christianity
from the Island of Japan.
From Shimonoseki to Kobe, the entire length of
the Inland Sea is 275 miles. This is, without
doubt, the loveliest sheet of water in the world.
Neither Lake Tahoe, Lake Como, Lake Luzern
or Christiania Fjorden, in Norway, compares with
this beautiful blue sheet of water dotted with its
3,000 picturesque islands. In whatever direction
the eye turns, a panoramic view meets it that baffles
description. Every nook along the shore pre-
sented to view clusters of villages, and the hillsides
were dotted with cozy homes of terrace farms, with
every acre cultivated to perfection by the industrious
Japanese. The foliage of trees on the islands cast-
ing shadows in the sea, and the swarms of Japanese
fishing boats of every description, added to the
attractiveness of the scene. This sea being difficult
to navieate, on account of the narrow and crooked
passages between the clusters of islands, lighthouses
and signals are stationed all along the coast, and
steamers are all required by law to carry pilots.
Never before in my life can I record having seen
so many beautiful attractions in so short a voyage
as that over this Inland Sea, — scenes which will
never be forgotten.
Kobe. 333
Kobe is situated half way between Nagasaki and
Yokohama. It is the only city in Japan in which
the Europeans have control of the municipal
government, and is the second seaport in size and
importance in Japan. Kobe has a deep harbor;
and we were here saved the trouble and annoyance
of having to be transported from the ship to the
shore in the boats of noisy runners, who infest
many of the seaports of these islands ; for here we
were moored to the wharf, and could step ashore
without danger to life or limb. The European
colony is built on the water front, and has many
attractive public and private buildings. Enter-
prising merchants and ship-owners here do a large
commercial business with Chinese and Japanese
ports.
The streets in Japanese cities are much broader
than those in China ; but the houses are lio-ht frame
structures of light boards, and generally two stories
in height. The windows have paper lights instead
of glass. In fact, glass is not used in Japan, either
in windows or doors. The latter are worked on
slides, on which they are easily moved, being
almost as light as a feather. The houses have little
furniture of any description, as it is not considered
necessary to comfort in Japan; but a white straw
carpet covers the floors. Their quaint little houses
are kept as neat as a pin, and the whole family sit
on the floor in a group when eating their meals.
334 Around the World.
The kitchen is the main room, though strangers
are always entertained up-stairs.
A stranger entering one of these houses, is
generally met at the entrance by two of the
inmates, who make salutations by bowing three
times, each succeeding bow being lower than the
preceding one ; when, for the last one they get
down on their knees, and bow nearly to the floor
with their heads. The stranger is then invited to
remove his shoes, and is escorted up-stairs in his
stocking- feet. His shoes must be left at the door
under all circumstances. The reason of this rule
being enforced is to preserve the carpet from being
soiled. The kitchen floor is not generally carpeted,
nor painted ; but it is varnished, and kept as bright
as a mirror. They do not propose to have it
scratched by the foreigner's shoes. All Japanese
wear wooden shoes, with a strap over the toes.
These shoes are so simple that it takes but a second
to remove them at the door before entering. The
bath is taken in a large vat adjoining the kitchen.
Bathing in Japan is considered as necessary as
eating.
Hiogo is separated from Kobe by a small
stream, and is densely populated. The sights of
interest in this city were its temples, theatres, shops
and tea houses. The tea houses of Japan are
classed as the moral and immoral. A vulgar dance
house is often called a tea house. The native
Japanese Theatres. 335
restaurants, road stations, or wayside inns, where
refreshments of sweets with tea and saki are
served, are also called tea houses.
The theatre in Japan begins in the morning, and
continues all through the day, and the audience
carry their lunch with them. To a stranger the
performances appear to be of the simplest and sil-
liest nature, not over three performers appear-
ing on the stage at a time ; and in many instances
the performance is similar to those of the Chinese.
The music is poor and uninteresting ; it sounded
like clii nk -chink-chink. To be compelled to re-
main in a Japanese theatre all day would prove
extremely monotonous to a foreigner. On enter-
ing a Japanese theatre, you are compelled to
ascend a flight of stairs, the performance being on
the upper floor, where there are no seats, except
small mats, which are placed on the floor for each
person who enters ; and no other alternative is left
but to sit flat on the floor. A box with hot char-
coal is placed by the side of each auditor, from
which he can light his pipe or warm his hands and
feet during the performance. The admission to a
Japanese theatre is four cens, or two cents, which
is very reasonable compared to prices charged in
European and American cities. This admission
entitles the visitor to remain all day and witness
all the various plays. Stoves are not used in
Japan, but in their stead braziers or small wooden
336 Around the World.
boxes with a charcoal fire made in the centre.
This fire is usually kept in the kitchen, where the
family sit, surrounding it as we do a stove or fire-
place.
From Kobe I visited two of the most important
cities in Japan, Osaka and Kioto. It is twenty
miles by rail from Kobe to Osaka, and the route is
over the most fertile and level section of country in
Japan. We passed through, on this journey, a
continuous line of well-cultivated gardens planted
into "paddy fields," each divided into half-acre
lots, and levied for irrigation. These fields were
clothed with the most luxuriant vegetation, even
though it was winter.
Osaka is situated on a level plain, is one of the
three imperial cities of Japan, and is the second
city in size in the empire, having a population of
nearly half a million inhabitants. The city is built
on both sides of the headwaters of the Yodagawa,
and steamers can enter from the port of Hiogoand
Kobe ; but the large bulk of freight is carried by
rail via Kobe. A great many small canals are cut
through the city, and the bridges of Osaka can be
counted by the hundreds, reminding one of Venice
or Stockholm.
I visited while here many places of interest, and
was entertained by many interesting sights.
Among- these was the castle on the banks of one of
the many streams which intersect the city. Its wall,
The Bronze Temple of Osaka. 337
sloping from the water's edge, and built of immense
blocks of granite, is sixty feet high. Near the
castle are two forts, and a garrison of 15,000 men.
The Imperial Mint, also located here, covers an
area of forty acres.
The Buddhist temples of Osaka number about
1,400, many of which I visited, where I found great
numbers of devoted natives on their knees clapping
their hands in devotional prayer to their idols.
The Temple Tennoji, situated in the outskirts of
the city, is the largest and most imposing. I paid
a priest here two cents to inspect all the bronze
idols contained within this temple, and for the same
price was permitted to climb to the top, from which
I obtained an admirable view of this interesting
city, the surrounding country and ocean for many
miles.
In riding through this strange city with my
coolie team in a two-wheeled jinrikishia, I was
greatly confused with strange sights and customs.
My tour through the city was made all the more
interesting, on account of it being a holiday. It
was a New Year's, or tenth day of rest. On this
occasion I had an opportunity of seeing people of
every rank and grade, of both sexes, and repre-
senting ages from one to eighty years, who
thronged the streets in their holiday attire, cele-
brating with the greatest pomp and ceremony at
their sacred shrines. Thousands of women carried
22
338 Around the World.
their babies lashed to their backs, Indian fashion.
The lips of the young women were painted blood
red, and their cheeks were smeared with white lead.
The ugliest amone the married women had their
teeth blackened.
Every one was bareheaded, without exception,
from an officer of the highest rank to a coolie of
the lowest order ; and many who were too dignified
to walk were pushed and pulled along in the jin-
rikishia, or carried in a palanquin (or traveling
chair used by the better classes) by the half-naked
coolies. Adding to all this the loud gibbering and
bawling in the native tongue, and the continuous
clattering- from their wooden shoes, and there was
a combination of noises and sights which were
hard on the ears, but exceedingly interesting to the
eye. For variety and confusion, this exceeded
anything I have witnessed in China. Such scenes
were quite a novelty to me at first ; but, after five
weeks' rambling through the empire, I became
better acquainted with the native customs, and the
novelty of the thing soon disappeared.
I was soon able to handle the chop-sticks in
eating- the soaked rice and other native foods. A
good appetite created the necessity for learning
this art, and forced me to take advantage of the
opportunity. Raw fish is a dish relished by many
of the native population ; but this was more than
my appetite could relish, and I afterward discov-
Banging the Hair. 339
ered that it was more a matter of taste than
practice in Japan.
The male population of Japan are small and
slender, and the greater number are also bow-
legged, and very unattractive in appearance. The
females are very small, short waisted, have a
healthy complexion, small black eyes, and are
much better looking than the men. The female
beauties exhibit great taste in ornamenting their
hair according to the custom of the country. I do
not suppose that there is another nation in the
world whose women take more pains, or exhibit
more pride in dressing and ornamenting the hair
than the Japanese. As a rule, women barbers go
from house to house, where they spend two or
three hours on a single head. After banging and
combing, the polishing touch is put on with a good
supply of sticky grease, which gives the hair an
exceedingly glossy appearance. The hair is
dressed in this manner generally once a week, but
never oftener than twice. After the hair is "done
up " in this slow and expensive manner, they take
the greatest precaution to preserve it intact as long
as possible, which is more easily done, as wooden
blocks, lined with velvet and cut to fit the neck,
are used instead of pillows, and sleeping in this
manner enables them to preserve the ornamenta-
tion of their hair for days at a time.
The women wear loose-fitting costumes, except
340 Around the World.
around the feet, where the fit is so close as to impede
the motion of the limbs, so that, at first sight, one
would hardly believe they could walk at all. Over
the upper portion of the body a loose over-blouse
is worn, with the sleeves a foot or so longer than
the arms ; and at a hasty glance the body has more
the appearance of being wrapped in loose cloth
than in a dress suit. The men wear black clothes
wrapped tightly around their legs as a substitute
for pants, a loose blouse over the upper portion of
the body, and an overskirt reaching nearly to the
feet. Without regard to rank or sex, they all
wear flat, high wooden shoes, with snow-white
stockings. Everybody goes bareheaded, from the
infant to the aged ; and, no matter whether you
meet them on the highway, in the remotest part of
the country, in the densely crowded city, or
whether they are exposed to the blazing sun or the
bracing frost, they are bareheaded, this being the
custom on their lovely island.
The marriaoe customs are similar to those of the
Chinese, — the contract being made by the parents
or middle-men instead of by the parties themselves,
and it is of frequent occurrence that the groom
and his intended bride have never seen each other
before the day of marriage. The wedding cere-
mony consists in coming forward, and, in the pres-
ence of the mediators, taking each other by the
hand, and drinking saki, the native wine. It is
(341;
342 Around the World.
the custom for the newly married couple to go and
live with the bridegroom's parents ; and, after
three or four years of married life, the man is
allowed to buy another wife, so that a man fre-
quently has two or more wives, according to his
means. The price of a wife varies from $80 to
$300, and even higher, according to her rank and
beauty. While visiting a friend in Yokohama, I
learned the following facts, illustrative of the hold
this peculiar custom has upon the people. In his
employ was a female Japanese servant Avho had
been married two years, and who was now working
to earn enough to enable her husband to procure a
second wife. I talked with the woman, and dis-
covered her reason for so doing-. She said she
thought it was all right, as the money would be
spent in a good cause, — an opinion in which o.ur
American and European wives would hardly be
found to concur.
The husband here has a ri^ht to divorce himself
at any time from any or all of his wives, after they
have been living together a sufficient length of
time, provided they have no children. The hus-
band has more privileges than the wife under all
circumstances, he being the lord and master of the
household, and the wife the slave.
Girl babies are not considered desirable by the
Japanese, and, when a girl is born into the world,
it is regarded as a misfortune by the family ;
Politeness of the Japanese. 343
whereas, on the birth of a boy, the reverse is the
case, and there is great rejoicing, it being looked
upon as a profitable increase. The peculiar cus-
tom is practiced of exhibiting fish on every house
where a boy has been born within a year.
An agreeable feature of travel among the Jap-
anese is their extreme politeness, it being as
natural for them to be polite to each other as it is
for them to eat. Politeness is a part of their
religious teaching, impressed upon their minds
from infancy ; and, wherever and whenever they
meet, they make salutations by bowing several
times, each apparently endeavoring to bow lower
than the other.
It was amusing to see children of every age, in
the cities or villages, swarming in the roads and
streets, which they use for a playground, and those
that were too small to walk were fastened to the
backs of their older and larger sisters, papoose
fashion. I have sometimes counted twenty or
thirty of these little girls, from six years upward, in
groups, where they played for hours, each with a
little one on her back. All were bareheaded, most
of the small children had their heads closely
shaved, and many were clothed only in rags
padded over each other, presenting quite a comical
appearance. I was informed that they were thus
sent out into the streets to play, with the younger
ones strapped upon the backs of the older ones, in
344 Around the World.
order that the mothers might be relieved of the
care and trouble of looking after them. The
absence of street-cars, carriages, and other vehicles
with horses attached, rendered it perfectly safe for
them to be in the streets.
The Japanese dancing and singing girls also
afforded considerable amusement. There are
organized groups of these maidens who travel
around and sing and play for pay. They are
generally girls of respectability, and sing in sing-
ing halls, while the dancing girls are generally
of a low order, and find their audiences among
the tea houses. Owing to the peculiar inhar-
monious sounds from the odd-looking musical
instruments used by the singers, one not accus-
tomed to or unacquainted with Japanese music
would have no desire to attend one of these
exhibitions more than once. I witnessed a dance
by three of these dancing girls given at one of the
tea houses ; and, from the manner in which they
exhibited their persons, and from the motions of
their bodies, together with the constant manoeuvres
with their fans while dancing, I would judge the
whole affair to be of an immoral nature. In one
corner of the room sat an elderly woman playing
a guitar, or three-stringed banjo, and heartily
laughing- to attract the attention of the audience.
One attendance at a place like this was enough for
me. The dance was called Jon Keno, a name well
befitting it.
Kioto. 345
I now turned my eyes toward Kioto, twenty
miles by rail from Osaka. Kioto is called the City
of Temples. It was the capital of Japan for over
a thousand years ; but within the last fifteen years
the seat of government has been moved to
Yeddo, or Tokio, a more central location in the
empire. At one time Kioto had over a million
inhabitants; but the population in 1870 was esti-
mated at 370,000. This city and its environs is
one of the most interesting places in Japan. It is
situated in a valley between the ridges Hujsizan
and Higushiyama on the east, and of Tennosan on
the west. The hills surrounding the city are
covered with temples, pagodas and shrines cf the
Shinto and Buddha sects. A visitor can have
access to every department of these by paying two
cents to the attending priest, who, with shaven
head and in stocking feet, shows visitors through
these temples, groaning slightly as he gives the
history of the sacred idol. Glittering decorations
of bronze bedeck the sacred images.
I was informed that Kioto had 300 temples of
the Shinto sect, and probably as many more of the
Buddhist persuasion. At the festivals, the follow-
ers of Buddha, while pleading to the bronze images,
clap their hands, while the priest beats a tom-tom.
They believe that the souls of the dead visit their
families every year, on the 13th day of August,
and remain three days before they return to the
346 Around the World.
tomb. The Shinto temples are similar to those of
the Buddhists on the exterior; but at the altar, on
the inside, they make a display of looking-glasses,
or mirrors, before which they perform their rites.
These looking-glasses, or mirrors, serve as a sub-
stitute for the sun, which was worshiped in ancient
times by these people, and is still the great object
of religious veneration among the followers of the
Shinto doctrine. These temples contain numerous
pictures of horses, and I was led to believe that
this animal held a sacred place in their hearts,
which I afterward discovered to be the fact. This
sect have a kind of spirit worship, the word sinto
in fact meaning spirit worship ; and they believe
that great numbers of spirits exercise an influence
over the world, the sun being the greatest of all,
and the elements after him. These are called Dai
Zin, meaning " Great Spirit." There are a large
number of inferior spirits also, — heroes, in the
main, who have been canonized for their worthy
deeds or good qualities. Among the latter there
is one called Fatsman, the God of War.
The Sinto was the ancient faith of Japan ; but
Buddhism has taken its place to a great extent.
The two religions, however, are badly mixed up,
Buddhism having appropriated many of the Sinto
doctrines, and the Sinto sects having taken up
many modes of worship, and images, from Bud-
hism. I was told that many rejected both of these
The Mikado. 347
religions, and the idol worship attending them.
Among these were some of the best-educated peo-
ple who were the followers of Confucius and his
teachings, and belonged to a school of philosophers
called Sinto. The latter have no temples or
external forms of worship, but follow, as a rule of
life, the precepts of the great Chinese sage.
I was very much impressed with the total absence
of hostility between the different sects. The
greatest toleration prevails, and all classes believe
in a spiritual Emperor called Dairi, whose proper
title is the Mikado. He is supposed to be the
vicegerent of God on earth, absolute in power
and of divine commission. He claims descent from
Sin Mu, who was the first to establish a regular
government in Japan, about 600 B. C. The person
of this being is considered so sacred, and he is con-
sidered so holy, that it would be desecration for
him to be exposed to the open air, or to touch his
feet upon the ground. Many other silly notions
concerning him are entertained, and all bow to him
as the one great Superior. They also have a sacred
dance before their idols.
One of the most imposing sights in Kioto is the
old Imperial Palace building and square, contain-
ing about thirty acres, surrounded by a high wall.
On entering, we passed through a large iron gate.
I was more impressed with the quaintness of its
architecture than with its beauty. Since the
(348)
Temples and Tea Hottscs. 3-49
removal of the Mikado to Tokio, little attention
has been given to its repairs by the Viceroy.
One of the greatest attractions in the city is an
image of Buddha, which contains many tons of
bronze. Kioto contains many ruins which mark a
period of calamity from earthquake and fire. I
found it the most interesting city in japan on
account of its ancient and modern wonders. Be-
sides her numerous temples and shrines, there are
many theatres, tea houses and amusements of every
kind, a detailed description of which can not be
given in these pages, as time and space will permit
a brief mention only of the principal objects of
interest. The shops are filled with curious and
costly wares, silk factories are numerous, and tea-
curing establishments, where many hundreds of
women are constantly employed.
I obtained a commanding view of the city and
surrounding country from the top of the mountain
called Shogan Zuka, to which I was carried in a
traveling chair by coolies. From this height I
was enabled to study the topography of the district
in every direction. The manner in which this
broken region is cultivated by terrace farming
from the hill-tops to the bottom of the deepest
ravines, a system of cultivation which I observed
in all parts of Japan, impressed upon my mind the
reason why 37,000,000 people were enabled to
subsist in a country smaller than California.
350 Around the World.
There is a similarity in many respects between
Japan and California in regard to climate and soil,
though California is far ahead of Japan and of
every other country under the sun, in climate and
in resources, and in the favors which nature has
extended ; and yet California now supports only
one million of people, while Japan supports thirty-
seven millions. While California, up to the present
time, has depended mainly on her great fields of
wheat, requiring the labor of but few, who are
sparsely settled over her vast and fertile valleys,
Japan is tilling every foot of her fertile soil to
perfection in small farms, bringing into cultivation
every inch of available space, and producing every
variety of crops instead of one, so that, in case of
over-production of certain cereals, they have others
in reserve, and are not dependent upon one alone.
By this system of farming, with an inferior climate
and inferior resources, they are enabled to support
a population thirty-seven times greater than that of
California.
The principal crops raised are tea and silk. I
noticed a tea plantation on the hilliest and rockiest
ground in the neighborhood. The tea bushes
resemble grape-vines of the same age, and are
planted similarly to our vineyards. In every direc-
tion, all over Japan, we find these little fields, in
which men and women can be seen in groups tilling
and toiling from morning until night, except on
From Photograph of Mr. Johnson in Japanese Costume,
with fusiyama for a background.
(351)
352 Around the World.
every tenth day, which is set apart for rest. Japan,
though favored by nature in many ways, is not a
fruit country, and what little is raised there is of
an inferior quality. Nor is it a good sheep country,
there being a species of herb growing in the vege-
tation which keeps those animals from thriving.
After spending some time in seeing the sights
and investigating the resources of the country in and
around the cities of Osaka and Kioto, I returned
to Kobe, and embarked on the coast mail steamer
for Yokohama, a distance of 350 miles, or a thirty-
five hours voyage. Shortly after leaving Kobe,
we quickly sailed out of the Inland Sea into the
open Pacific Ocean, keeping near the shores and
stopping at all the ports. From the immense car-
goes coming into and going from them, and the
numerous steamer lines plying along this coast, a
stranger would naturally judge the resources and
commerce of Japan to be something enormous.
As we sailed along the coast, the main point of
interest in view was the Fusiyama Mountain, said
to be the most graceful mountain in form of any in
the world. Its towering peak, covered with per-
petual snow, and 14,000 feet above the level of
the sea, can be seen above every other object for
100 miles out in the Pacific Ocean. This volcanic
mountain has a crater two miles in circumference ;
but there has been no eruption for several years.
It is a famous resort for tourists and visitors, and
Fitsiyama. 353
the natives formerly made pilgrimages here for the
purpose of idolatrous worship ; but the custom
which necessitated such a hazardous climb is nearly
abandoned, their worship being confined to the
temples nearer home, where perhaps the same
reward is meted out to them.
23
354 Around the World.
CHAPTER XIX.
THE INTERIOR OF JAPAN.
As we steamed into Yokohama, we found that
spacious harbor full of anchored vessels. Our
steamer was soon surrounded by row craft, from a
canoe to a sampan, all being propelled scull fashion
and with great speed by the noisy boatmen and
boatwomen. On this occasion I was transported
in the Club Hotel's steam tender, and landed with
comfort, thereby avoiding the tedious bargaining
about tariff, as well as the danger of being - drenched
and half drowned by the natives before reaching
shore, which experience I had met with in other
Asiatic ports.
The word Yokohama signifies " opposite shore,"
this city lying opposite to Kanagawa. The latter
place was for many years the residence of foreign-
ers ; but of late years they have been permitted to
remove their business quarters to Yokohama,
which is the leading treaty seaport in Japan. It is
a city of 50,000 inhabitants, including 4,000 foreign-
ers, is built principally on level ground, and is sur-
rounded on three sides by ranges of hills. Several
canals are cut through the city, and these are crossed
by bridges in every direction.
Yokohama. 355
The European settlement extends along the
water front a long distance, and is called the Bund.
It contains some large commercial houses, steam-
ship offices, numerous banks, three churches and a
few good hotels. Among the latter the leading
ones are the Windsor, the Grand, and Club Hotels,
at all of which the rate is three dollars per day.
This locality was formerly a swamp ; but, since its
cession to Europeans, it has been reclaimed, and it
is now the most beautiful part of the city.
The more prominent among the European resi-
dents, the consuls, merchants and missionaries, have
.their private residences on a lofty eminence called
the " Bluff," from which I had a fine view of the
city and bay. This elevation reminded me of Nob
Hill, in San Francisco, only it is of much less im-
portance. I made many acquaintances living here,
and used to make frequent visits to the " Bluff,"
and, in the society of my newly found friend, Mr.
Jensen, and his estimable wife, passed many pleas-
ant hours.
The principal business portion of the city is con-
fined to Main street, which, from its width and the
architecture of its buildings, bears evidence of
European civilization and enterprise. Porcelain
factories, silk establishments and tea warehouses,
where by a certain process the moisture is extracted
from the tea, and the leaves are cured and prepared
for the foreign market, are among the enterprises
356 Around the World.
started by foreign capitalists. A stroll through the
principal tea establishments, where hundreds of
native women are engaged in taking the tea through
these various processes until the finishing touch
was reached, was very interesting and instructive.
The various nations of the world are well repre-
sented at this port, and the flags flying from the
different consulates designate the different coun-
tries represented. The American Consul, Mr.
Green, was the only one I had occasion to call on,
as it was necessary to procure a passport from him,
which document I afterward found to be as useful
as coin, in my travels from Yokohama through the
interior, whenever I crossed the treaty limits.
The native portion of Yokohama is full of
strange and interesting sights, and the principal
streets are illuminated with Japanese paper lan-
terns. One noticeable feature on the streets is the
low-story booths, tea houses and the public bathing
houses. The principal streets in this quarter are
Bentondora and Hanchdora, the shops along which
are crowded with native wares and curios of every
description, either in porcelain, silk or lacquer cabi-
nets, any of which can be purchased at astonish-
ingly low prices.
It is here where tourists generally make large
purchases of presents, souvenirs and curios for
their friends at home. The duty I paid at San
Francisco on my collections amounted to more
Public Bathing. 357
than the original purchase price in Yokohama.
Some of the merchants display their goods and
wares on the open streets ; and, in the little booths
fronting the streets, whole families can be seen
sitting in groups, flat on the floor, around a brazier
of hot coals, smoking their pipes. There are
numerous theatres where the same silly perform-
ance heretofore described can be witnessed for two
cents. The tea houses and dance houses are of
the same character as I found in other Japanese
cities, and a stranger has no desire to visit one a
second time.
The most singular custom which attracts the
attention of the visitor is the manner in which
public bathing is conducted. The public bathing
houses are free for inspection from the sidewalks,
and you can sometimes see thirty or forty women
bathing at the same time, and oftentimes as many
as 150 may be seen bathing in the same water.
On disrobing, they plunge into a large wooden
vat, where the process of scrubbing and washing is
kept up for nearly an hour, and they are constantly
going and coming, dressing and undressing. These
bathing establishments, being public institutions,
sanctioned by the government, any passer-by has a
right to look in and witness the performance ; and,
this being an old custom among the people, these
women are perfectly indifferent whether Europeans
or natives watch their plunging and splashing. At
(358;
Man-Power versus Horse-Power. 359
the entrance is a gate-keeper, who allows none but
females of -respectability to enter. Up to within
the last few years it was the custom for males and
females to bathe together ; but now they have a
railing which separates the sexes. Bathing is
indulged in daily by the Japanese, and, if cleanli-
ness is akin to godliness, surely the Japanese can
claim the kinship. In this and in many other
customs the Japanese are behind the civilization of
the age.
The common mode of travel in Japan is by
means of the'two-wheeled jinrikishia, shaped some-
thing like a small gig, and generally drawn by a
single coolie, except for rapid traveling, when two
are employed. It is quite a comfortable and con-
venient means of travel, enabling a siorht-seer to
ride over the streets of a city and its surroundings
almost as rapidly as he could with a team of horses.
A large number of these coolies have picked up
sufficient English to enable them to explain the
various objects of interest as they travel along,
and in this manner the tourist is saved the expense
of employing an interpreter.
From Yokohama and Tokio, I made many
excursions to the interior in this kind of a rig, the
motive power being two coolies, who would haul me
along at the rate of fifty miles a clay, for which
valuable service they charged me sixty cents a day,
furnishing their own food r which consisted chiefly
360 Around the World.
of rice, tea and brandy, or at least a substitute for
the latter, — a kind of innocent liquor made of rice.
One would think that very little could be made at
such low wages ; but everything in Japan is corre-
spondingly low. I have seen these coolies, when
on the way, stop for refreshments and rest, as they
usually did at stations every fifteen miles, and pay
one cent for a glass of brandy, one cent for a cup
of tea, and two cents for a mess of rice, while raw
fish and other luxuries would be correspondingly
low.
Another mode of travel, in which I also had
some experience, was by means of the sedan chair,
or, as it is sometimes called, the traveling chair, in
which I was carried by two half-naked coolies, with
a bamboo pole resting upon their shoulders. This
mode of travel, used in the hilly districts, and over
rough and broken sections, is fast going out of use ;
but, in the narrow streets in China, it is the princi-
pal means of conveyance.
Wagons of any kind are almost unknown in
Japan, the only vehicle used as a substitute being
the large two-wheeled carts which are pushed and
pulled by a number of coolies, according to the
size of the load. I have often seen a half-dozen of
these coolies moving one of these carts loaded with
produce, to market, a distance of twenty miles.
Everything seemed to be operated with man power,
and this power was certainly utilized for everything
Cultivation and Productions. 361
for which it could be made available, which is but
natural among a poverty-stricken people, and in an
over-populated country.
Horses are few in number and of an inferior
breed. Chubby ponies, smaller than the California
mustang, are used principally in the mountainous
districts as pack animals. I have seen a long string
of these animals with lumber and poles thirty feet
long packed lengthwise on a saddle frame as long
as their backs. The only advantage I could see to
the horse by this arrangement of the load was that
he was enabled to walk in the shade of his burden,
which projected twelve feet beyond his head and
tail.
From Yokohama to Tokio was a pleasant rail-
way ride of eighteen miles, the Pacific Ocean being
in full view nearly the whole distance. The route
ran through a level and prosperous country, every
acre of which was cultivated ; and it seemed like
riding through continuous gardens of rice, tea and
vegetables.
Wheat is also raised, though on a very small
scale, and generally as a second crop after the rice
and other crops have been removed. It is planted
in rows, and the crops raised amount to compara-
tively nothing for such a large population. What
small quantity is raised is converted into a coarse
meal, and made into sweet-cakes, which are served
as refreshments. The European population of the
362 Around the World.
empire import their flour from India and San
Francisco.
Tokio, the seat of government, or the new and
eastern capital, covers a greater area than New
York City. It has a population of nearly one
million, is intersected by numerous canals and
bridges, and contains a greater variety of sights of
interest than any other city in the Orient. Here I
also found many temples, shrines and every idol-
atrous object appertaining to heathendom. The
most imposing sights were the Shibba Temples and
surroundings, from which a beautiful view can be
obtained of the city and surrounding country in
different directions, a distance of eight or ten
miles.
The Osaka temples, in the Osaka district, were
also objects of special interest. The Temple of
Kin Kin Zan is an enormous structure, with a costly
ornamented exterior, and with its altar ornamented
with bronze and gold. The walks to this temple
were thronged with worshipers who were hastening
to perform religious rites to their imaginary gods.
To hear and see how devotional they were while
pleading to these glaring images for mercy was a
touching scene. They bow and clap their hands
repeatedly, calling to their idols in most imploring
tones, and cluster around these inanimate figures
with offerings. In the performance of these super-
stitious rites, they often work themselves into a
To kid — The Mikado s Palace. 363
state of unconsciousness, like the negroes of the
South in their religious fervor.
As usual, a priest with shaven head was on hand
to take the small admission fee, and do the honors
to visitors. Inside of the temple grounds, there
were tea booths, bazaars, art galleries, theatrical
performances and other attractions. This temple
and its surroundings, so closely mixed up with
idolatries, business life and pleasure resorts, makes
the Osaka district one of the most important and
curious places to visit in the city. Near this temple
stands the statue of the Goddess Emma, encircled
by a cluster of children.
I also visited while here the Mikado's Palace,
which was in course of construction in place of the
one burned down a few years ago. It will be a
magnificent building when finished. The Citadel,
the Castle and fortifications were also inspected by
me with much interest. The Imperial buildings
correspond with the architecture of other important
buildings throughout the city, and are all built low,
in all probability on account of the frequency of
earthquakes. Tokio and its environs contain many
dilapidated temples, the wreck and ruin of which
were caused by earthquakes, fire, war and other
destructive agencies.
While here I visited Veno, three miles from the
centre of the city, where, among many other objects
of interest, can be seen the main museum, which I
364 Around the World.
found filled with all kinds of ancient wares, imple-
ments, tools, coins, swords, etc., revealing to a cer-
tain extent the character and customs of the early-
inhabitants of the island. Every kind of wild ani-
mal peculiar to the country was well represented in
the collection of skins deposited here. In point of
interest and display, I found the museum and art
gallery a fair sample of many I saw in Europe.
In Veno I found many elegant gardens and
ornamental residences belonging to the more opu-
lent citizens of Tokio. Here also are many
imposing tombs of the Shoguns, the former rulers
of Japan, among them being one who concluded a
treaty with the United States a few years ago. I
regret that space will not permit a more complete
and interesting description of all of these wonder-
ful sights ; but I must journey on.
Leaving Tokio, I visited Nikko, situated seventy-
five miles in the interior, and amidst the grandest
mountain scenery in the empire. This journey
included a ride by rail to Utsonomaya, fifty miles
from Tokio, and through a moist, level country,
planted largely in tropical fruits.
At Utsonomaya myself and guide put up at the
Yama Hotel, the most important in the town,
where I was served, in pure native style, with all
the luxuries of the land, and I might add that the
enjoyment afforded by the native customs was more
palatable than the articles on the bill of fare. I
Sumptuous Supper. 365
have already mentioned the remarkable politeness
of the Japanese, and, as usual, I was entertained
with it here. On entering the hotel, I was met at
the door by the host, hostess and a servant, each of
whom made salutations by bowing three times, at
the last bow falling down on their knees, and
almost touching the floor with their heads.
According to custom, my shoes were removed,
and I was politely invited up-stairs in my stocking
feet into the parlor, which I found to be kept as
neat as a pin, but as bare of furniture as a barn,
except a straw carpet laid on a springy bamboo
floor. Here I was invited to be seated on a mat
placed in the middle of the floor, and a little
brazier of hot coals was left near my feet, while the
servant girl brought me a cup of tea, without a
saucer, with some native refreshments. The only
objection I had to the tea was that the cup was too
small, containing not more than four thimblefuls
of the beverage.
Supper was served in half an hour. Half-boiled
rice was brought in a wooden tub the size of a peck
measure, and the other dainty dishes were raw fish,
native brandy warmed, shark's fins, and a mixture
of vegetables, soy and sea weed. Two chop-sticks
were furnished me to gather in the food with, and
within two feet of this sumptuous repast were two
blushing maidens watching and attending to my
wants.
366 Around the World.
One of these, kneeling on the floor, held in her
hands a wooden tray, from which I received my
rice in a tiny cup, which, as soon as emptied, was
to be replaced on the tray to be refilled by her
from the smoking rice tub. This was to be filled
and refilled as often as I should desire it. This
maiden served the meal, while the other stood
upright in her white stocking feet, ready for extra
service, such as keeping the paper-light or fire-box
in proper order ; or, if anything else should be
wanted from the kitchen, such as raw fish or
warm brandy, for instance, she would glide after it
as noiselessly as a ghost. They watched me
amusedly in my awkward efforts to eat with the
chop-sticks, with which, though difficult to handle,
I managed to catch all the rice my appetite
required. I did not indulge in the rest of the
luxuries (?), on account of the offensive flavor, which
I found to be most disagreeable to both taste and
smell.
Some little time after this dining and wining had
concluded, and when the hour was growing late, I
was invited to take a bath before retiring- for the
night, which I was obliged to consent to, owing to
the strict custom of the country to indulge in the
luxury of the Uath every night. If I had deviated
from this custom or declined, it would have lowered
me in the estimation of the household, and doomed
me as an unclean person, much lower in their esti-
(367)
368 Around the World.
mation than one who should decline to wash his
face and hands before going to breakfast, would be
with us.
I was escorted to the bath-room by the two
female servants and my guide. The room con-
tained a large oblong vat, with warm and cold
water, and I was informed by my guide that it was
the custom for the two maid servants to wait on
me while at the bath ; that they were there for the
purpose of rubbing and scrubbing me with brushes
and towels until I was perfectly clean.
Truly, I had been convinced and struck with the
politeness, kindness and hospitality of the Japanese;
but I now began to think they were going to kill
me with these qualities, and, for the first time in
my life, I thought I had too much of a good thing.
As a few hours before they had tried to overfeed
me, now they were going to try to overwash me ;
so I declined their service, and told them that,
according to our American custom, we rubbed and
scrubbed ourselves while bathing, and that I must
stick to that rule or not bathe at all, upon which
they gracefully withdrew, and I was left alone to
take the plunge. The only objection I found to
the bath was that everybody bathed in the same
vat and in the same water, the water being changed
only once a day.
However, I came from that bath a wiser and a
cleaner man, and, returning to my bare parlor,
Sleeping in Native Style. 369
entered into speculations as to how I should sleep
during" the night, as neither bedstead nor bedr
clothes were in sight. But a few moments elapsed,
however, before two heavy quilts were brought in,
one of which was spread in the centre of the floor
to lie on, and the other had long sleeves in it
like an overcoat. After the two maids had assisted
me in getting my arms into its sleeves, and a hollow
wooden block to fit my neck for a pillow had been
furnished, I was invited to lie down, which I did.
Near my wooden pillow was placed a brazier of hot
coals to keep me warm during the night, and a kind
of grease-light, in a paper lantern, was left on the
floor near my feet, and kept burning all night.
My guide was put to bed in the same manner at
the door, as a body guard. He was a guardian to
be most feared, as he had the best opportunity of
robbing me. In the slide door stood the two little
black-eyed beauties watching my awkward move-
ments as long as my eyes remained open. They
could not have been married, for their teeth were
not blackened. I was to all appearances more of a
curiosity to them than their strange customs were
to me. I was treated to a shock of earthquake
during the night, a frequent visitor in Japan ; but
it must have been a light one, as neither the bam-
boo walls nor the paper windows were affected by
it. Morning came, and, finding myself not robbed,
I at once placed more confidence in my guide ; and
24
370 Around the World.
here let me say, that I was never robbed out of a
farthing, either in Japan or on any other part of
my journey, except in the extra tips I had to pay
waiters and guides, which many tourists style
"highway robbery."
For this interesting nisfht's accommodation the
rates were as reasonable as could be expected, tak-
ing into consideration the various extras and atten-
tion furnished. Forty cents paid my entire bill,
including the bath, hot coals, light, etc. I was
charged half-price for my guide, as he was con-
sidered of much less dignity, and had to be con-
tented with common fare and attention. I almost
forgot to mention that my passport was examined
here by an officer, and, on my identification as an
American citizen, all was well, as the citizens of
this country are held in higher regard than those
of any other. This is a fair description of the
customs, fare, etc., of the interior hotels in Japan,
and every foreign tourist in search of pleasure
will be likely to share the same comforts, and be
served with like fare and attentions, as I have here
related.
There are no European settlers in the rural dis-
tricts of Japan, and no hotels kept on the European
plan. The Japanese in these districts do not want
to sell or rent land to foreigners, and do not allow
them to become interested in any public enterprise,
or get a foothold or controlling interest in anything;
i
Utsonomaya to Nikko. 371
and these restrictions are especially enforced against
the British. The Japanese, being a wide-awake
nation, want to manage their own affairs, and are
aiming to place themselves on a level with other
civilized countries.
At Utsonomaya I hired a pair of coolies and two
two- wheeled jinrikishias to convey myself and guide
to Nikko, a distance of twenty-two miles. The
road was a steady incline until we reached Nikko,
at an altitude of 2,000 feet above the level of the
sea. The route was very attractive, both sides of
the road being regularly lined with shade trees,
which, on account of their age, were of enormous
size. They must have been planted by former
rulers over 1,000 years ago, and the shade from
them proved a boon to the weary traveler.
We soon arrived at Nikko, the headquarters of
the Buddha and Shinto sects. This place contains
many imposing temples, and some of the grandest
mountain scenery in Japan, including cascades,
rushing waterfalls, lofty mountains, rugged cliffs
and crags, and arches of the most curious formation.
I found here a group of forty-seven temples of
most stately structure, and of grand architectural
design, carved and engraved on the exterior, and
with ornamental altars in gold and bronze in the
interior. Thousands of tons of bronze must have
been used in their construction, and, since leaving
Rome, I had seen no such imposing splendors to
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Nikko, the Rome of Japan. 873
excite my admiration as I found here in Nikko,
which has been truly styled the Rome of Japan.
This is the burial place of Toku Iyyani, the
founder of the Shogun dynasty, and one of the most
celebrated warriors in Japanese history. The sacred
ground containing the ashes of this distinguished
ruler is on a sloping hill, to which I gained access
by following my guide up a long flight of granite
steps, through temples filled with glittering objects
in gold and bronze, and guarded by shaven-headed
priests. My guide was kept busy explaining to me
the wonderful sights met with on this journey, and
my memorandum book seemed fast filling with
descriptions of temples, shrines, tombs and statues,
much of which, I regret, for want of space must be
omitted from this narrative.
After a few days of sight-seeing in this wonder-
ful city, I returned to Yokohama via Tokio. My
next expedition was to Enoshima, a little island,
twenty-two miles from Yokohama, a lovely resort,
and one of the first places visited by tourists after
they have done the sights of Yokohama. One of
the curious features of this island is a natural cave,
400 feet long, which penetrates the bluff near the
level of the sea. This cave contains many sacred
relics, idols guarded by priests, who charge a small
fee of admission to view the secrets contained
within its lone and crooked recesses.
This island is full of native shops, well stocked
374
Around the World.
with shells, beads and other curios gathered from
the sea, and many of the natives make a living in
this way, depending on visitors for customers.
From this island I obtained a beautiful view in
every direction. The ocean seemed alive with its
Bronze Image of Buddha.
clusters of fishing boats, and other drifting objects,
which added to the attractiveness of the scene.
Returning to Yokohama, which had now become
the central point of all of my movements, I
started with my jinrikishia and coolie team for
Kamakura, where Diebutsi, the great bronze image
Photograph Taken on Image of Buddha. 375
or statue of Buddha, is located. It was cast over
600 years ago ; is fifty-three feet high, and ninety-
six feet in circumference, and the face is ei^ht and
a half feet long- and sixteen feet wide. I found
the inside hollow, and the space within used as a
temple. This image is in every respect a most
wonderful piece of workmanship. According to
the usual custom among tourists, I had my photo-
graph taken, with the image as a background, being
placed in a sitting posture on one of its thumbs,
from which my figure appears insignificant when
compared with the enormous proportions of the
statue.
Kamakura is eighteen miles from Yokohama.
It was the capital of Japan from 1190, during a
period of about 400 years ; and the military head-
quarters of Toriton, a famous Prince in Japanese
history, were established here. Kamakura con-
tains several grand temples, the most imposing of
which is the Tsurugoaka Hill, a temple of Shinto
origin, which I entered by climbing a flight of
fifty-eight steps. Here I was shown many old
relics, swords, curious designs of bows and arrows,
pieces of blades, and many other weapons used by
a warlike people. These silent monitors were
representatives of stormy and warlike periods in
the nation's history, and, while preserved as
objects of curiosity by the natives, they are of
eqiial interest to the foreign visitor.
376 Around the World.
While here I visited the tomb of Bill Adams, an
English pilot, and the first white man who died in
Japan.
Leaving this tomb with my coolie outfit, I was
soon hurried into the streets of Yokaski, a favorite
seaside resort, frequented by many visitors from
Yokohama. This place, according to its size, was
the most stirring place I visited in the empire.
The government Navy Yard, dry docks and
Arsenal are located here. I saw many new ships
in course of construction, and many old ones
launched for repairs. Some oi the largest machine
shops in the East are located here, and 2,000
mechanics of various grades are employed, at
wages ranging from twenty to fifty cents a day,
without board. A visit to this busy city can not
fail to impress the visitor with the enterprise of the
Japanese.
I returned to Yokohama, twelve miles away, on
a little steamer, which made four regular trips a
day. The picturesque scenery along the coast
served to remind me that Nature had bestowed her
favors upon Japan with a lavish hand. What
food for an artist these lovely islands, picturesque
shores and inland attractions would afford ! The
next place visited was the favorite health and
pleasure resort called Miya-Notta, which contains
several mineral springs of a sulphurous nature,
visited by many natives and tourists, who drink
Christianizing the Heathen. 377
and bathe in the waters. It is situated in the
midst of beautiful mountain scenery, to reach
which I traveled via Odawara in the usual tandem
style.
From Odawara the road was over a rough and
broken trail, and I was obliged to change my mode
of conveyance to the sedan chair, which has been
described before. After traveling extensively over
China and Japan, I had become accustomed to the
different modes of travel, and was now equal *to
any emergency.
The district traversed by us appeared to be
occupied chiefly by peasants, who lived in dilapi-
dated huts, situated in the centre of their patch-
fields, which were cultivated chiefly to rice, vege-
tables and tea. Their lot seemed to be to live
poor and die poor. Japan, though ground down
with taxation and over-population, has less paupers,
I am informed, than any other nation, according to
population.
Before leaving Yokohama to resume my travels,
I visited several Japanese Christian churches and
schools. Many of these heathen have been con-
verted to Christianity through these influences.
English is taught in these schools, and the teach-
ers and missionaries of both English and American
nationalities work harmoniously together in
christianizing and educating the people. I con-
versed with Mr. Bennett and Mr. Jewel, mission-
378 Around the World.
aries, and with Mr. Baker, a teacher, who informed
me that much good had been accomplished through
their labor and influence. These schools were
well attended by many nations, who rapidly learn
the English language. Several young Japs acted
as assistant teachers. I noticed that many Euro-
peans had mastered the Japanese language and
spoke it with perfect ease. Notwithstanding that
their language has forty-seven letters, it is an easy
language to learn.
I found the churches filled with peopie of every
age, who seemed very devoted to their new-found
religion. To see these natives in a Christian
church, on their knees, in white stocking feet, and
especially the chubby children, was a novel scene.
You can always correctly estimate the number of
people in a Japanese church before you enter, by
counting the number of shoes left outside the
door.
The author sent the following communication
from Yokohama to the Modesto, Cal., Herald :
LETTER FROM JAPAN.
Yokohama, Japan, Jan. 28, 1SS6.
Editor Herald: — Since my last letter, sent you from Canton, China,
I am now 1,800 miles nearer home. For several weeks I have traveled
extensively in Japan, and I find it the most beautiful and interesting of any
country I have seen during my whole journey around the world. I find the
people here nearer up to the scale of our advanced civilization than in China
or India, and, as a rule, they are gentlemanly and polite. If a stranger
enters a Japanese house, he is cordially met in the doorway, and salutations
are made by bowing the head twice near to the floor. In the seaboard cities
Letter from Japan. 379
they are largely imitating the Europeans, both in customs and costumes; but
in the interior I had to use chop-sticks, the same as in China.
I have visited all the leading places of interest in Japan, — temples, tea
plantations, navy yards, arsenals, tea-drying establishments, silk works, por-
celain factories, bazaars, public bathing houses, tea houses, theatres, castles,
rice fields and the depositories of relics all over the country. The grandest
place for sight-seeing is Nikko. It is called the Rome of Japan. This
point I have just been visiting. It is ninety-five miles from Yokohama,
located in the midst of a group of picturesque mountains. Here are forty-
seven stately temples, many of which are ornamented with costly, glittering
bronze. Nikko is the ancient headquarters for the two prevailing religions
of the country, the Shinto and the Buddhist. The latter is the principal
one and the most pious. Among other attractions are waterfalls that con-
tinually flow near the temples from the snow-clad mountains. Here are
large pagodas, images of many descriptions, representing the Japan gods,
and other curious relics and scenes to attract the eyes of a tourist and arrest
his attention.
The interesting places which I have visited, aside from those mentioned,
are Tokio, the capital ; Osaka ; Kioto, the old capital ; Nagasaki, Kobe,
Kamakura, and Yokaski, the government Navy Yard of Japan. Near by
here I saw the grave of Bill Adams, an English pilot, and the first white
man ever buried in Japan. Near by is also the great image of Dibutsi, the
Japanese god, where I had my photograph taken on the thumb of the
image. The Inland Sea of Japan, over which I traveled for 240 miles, is the
most beautiful sheet of water I have sailed on in my whole journey. This
coast has the most beautiful and picturesque landscape scenery from the
shores to the hill-tops, which surround it in every direction, and the water of
the sea is dotted with fishing boats, which add beauty to the sight all along
the coast. The ride I had over this silvery sea, with its thousands of attrac-
tions, will never grow dim in my memory.
In a few days I will embark for the Sandwich Islands, the last country I
will have to visit before I have accomplished my tour around the world.
Yours truly, Osmun Johnson.
In a week's travel through Japan, I had witnessed
many wonderful sights, and visited many famous
places ; I had studied her resources and the customs
and industries of her people ; I had seen more of
her temples, shrines and idols than I ever care to
380 Around the World.
see again ; I had viewed her many attractions with
interest and pleasure, had experienced the kindness
and courtly demeanor of her people, and been
treated with the highest consideration and respect,
according to their custom. An unknown white man
traveling through her interior for hundreds of miles,
and left to the mercy of the natives, instead of
being robbed and plundered, I had been treated as
a nobleman of high birth ; my passport as a citizen
of the United States entitled me to the highest
consideration; and, in conclusion, I will say of Japan,
that, with her mountains of picturesque scenery
and inexhaustible mineral wealth, with her exten-
sive timber regions, with her valleys and hills culti-
vated to all varieties of tropical products, with her
beautiful seas and lakes and bays alive with fish of
all kinds, with her extensive seaboard and secure
harbors, giving her greater commercial advantages
than any other country in Asia, — with all these
natural advantages, and with a healthy, happy, in-
dustrious and ambitious people, she can not fail to
soon take her place among the civilized nations of
the world.
I found her people to be as honest as the day is
long ; courteous, kind, polite and good humored ;
fond of joking, great imitators, and anxious to
acquire knowledge. I enjoyed my visit among
them more than that among any other people on
my tour around the world, and it is with many
Correspondence. 381
regrets that I am now obliged to bid good-bye to
the Mikado's empire.
The following was written at Yokohama by
Mr. Johnson to the Stockton, Cal., Independent :
LETTER FROM JAPAN.
Yokohama, japan, Jan. 18, i836.
For several weeks past I have traveled extensively in the interior and on
the sea-coast of Japan. Of all the countries visited in my journey around
the world, I have found Japan the most interesting. I have just visited
Nikko, about eighty miles north of Tokio, the headquarters of the Buddhist
and Shinto sects, the two prevailing religions of Japan. The temples of
Nikko have a group of picturesque mountains for background. There are
here, in all, forty-seven stately and costly temples, ornamented with bronze
and engraved images, and objects representing the Japanese gods. Thou-
sands of tons of bronze must have been used in constructing these imposing
temples and pagodas. Among other grand attractions in and around Nikko
are seven waterfalls in streams that rush from the snow-clad mountains a
short distance from the city. In other places in Japan, like Tokio, Osaka
and Kioto, I have seen grand temples, pagodas and castles and interesting
curiosities in architecture; but since I left Rome I have never seen so many
beautiful relics, temples and tombs as at Nikko. This place is, in fact,
called the Rome of Japan.
Nikko is ninety-five miles from Yokohama, and on the trip from the last-
named place I first took the cars to Utsonomaya, a distance of seventy- seven
miles. There I hired two coolies with " jinrikishias " for myself and guide,
to convey us the remaining distance to Nikko. That was a curious turn-out
for a Stanislaus farmer to ride in, — a little two-wheeled concern with two
half-naked coolies for a tandem team. I have, however, become an expert
in the " jinrikishia" and traveling chair in Japan and China. I have sent you
by this mail a photograph, taken for me while sitting in the queer two-wheeled
vehicle behind my coolie team.
On this tour I was supplied with a passport from the American consul,
and I found the document as useful as coin. Whenever I entered a Jap-
anese hotel at night, I was met at the door by the host or hostess, who made
salutations by bowing almost to the floor. After my shoes were taken off I
was invited up-stairs, and shown to the best room, which was bare of furni-
ture. I was politely invited to squat on the floor on a white mat, and then a
small vessel of hot coals was left at my feet. Next came a servant giil with
382 Around the World.
a cup of tea'served on a small red wooden tray. The fault found with the
cup of tea was that it was too small, containing not over four thimblefuls.
Half an hour later supper was served, consisting of half-boiled rice in a
vessel the size of a peck measure, vegetables, warm Japanese brandy and
raw fish, with two chop-sticks to gather in the rice. Two blushing maidens
stood opposite the rice dish, and they amused themselves watching my poor
headway with chop-sticks. Fortunately, I had ample time to catch all the
rice that my appetite called for, and I have now learned to be quite handy
with the sticks. The smell of the vegetables, raw fish and brandy, was
enough for me, and satisfied my appetite without tasting these dainty Japan-
ese dishes. At bed-time two quilts were placed on the floor, one of them
having long sleeves to put one's arms into before lying down flat on the mat.
For a pillow a wooden block was furnished, hollowed out to fit the neck, and
a vessel with hot coals was left near my head to keep me warm through the
night. In this position I was ready to sleep.
The whole country is cultivated into gardens instead of farms, and I can
now understand how 37,000,000 of people live in a country smaller than
England. The Inland Sea of Japan for 240 miles is the most beautiful
sheet of water I have seen in my whole tour.
I have now traveled about 45,000 miles, through America, Europe,
Africa, Australia, India, China, Japan, and many islands, in the journey; and
in a few days I will start for the Sandwich Islands, the last country to visit
before I have made my trip around the world.
Osmun Johnson.
Eastward Across the Pacific. 388
CHAPTER XX.
HOMEWARD BOUND ACROSS THE PACIFIC, VIA
HONOLULU, TO SAN FRANCISCO.
On the 9th day of March I embarked on the
four-masted steamer City of Peking for San Fran-
cisco, via Honolulu. This vessel is the largest
American vessel afloat, and is in reality a floating
palace upon the Pacific Ocean. She has a carrying
capacity of 5,500 tons. Her entire length is 425
feet, and her engines are of 800 horse-power, con-
suming forty-five tons of coal every twenty-four
hours. It took a small army of servants to keep
her clean, and in every department they could be
seen scrubbing day and night. The cabin fare was
good, though it was not the custom to serve as
many lunches as they do on the English steamers,
on which eating and s 1 eeping seem to be the main
occupation through the day and night.
I found this Trans-Pacific steamer as comfortable
and well kept as she looked, and considered myself
very fortunate in being able to secure such accom-
modations ; for, at the outset, my aim had been to
include in my tour of the world as many countries
as possible, even though I should be obliged to go
884 Around the World.
out of my way, or out of the regular course of
travel for hundreds of miles or more, and without
regard to the extra time employed or expense
incurred.
I started out to see the world, and I wanted to
see it. An opportunity now presented itself to visit
the Sandwich Islands, — an opportunity rarely
afforded the tourist on leaving Asia. It happened
in this way : From China to San Francisco, there
are two regular mail lines, the Occidental and
Oriental, neither of which touch at Honolulu, as
the distance would be increased 500 miles ; but on
this occasion an arrangement had been made by
Claus Spreckles, the Sandwich Island sugar king,
with the steamship company, to carry and land
for him 900 Japanese emigrants, who were under a
three-years contract with him to work on his sugar
plantations on the islands.
I rejoiced at this opportunity of visiting, on my
homeward journey, another interesting country,
and hastily took advantage of it. It seemed to me
that Providence had favored me throughout my
whole tour, and had allowed me a full share of the
world's most wonderful sights. I had been per-
mitted to visit two more countries than the average
tourist, to wit, Australia and New Zealand, and
now the Sandwich Islands were to be added to
the list.
Having secured passage, and gone aboard, the
Life on the Peking. 385
anchor was raised, and we steamed out of the
beautiful harbor of Yokohama. The snow-clad
peak, Fusiyama, the last visible object in the
Mikado's empire, soon faded from our view, and
we were fairly on our way across the Pacific.
Besides the 900 emigrants on board, there were
passengers of every grade and rank, — lords and
millionaires, Oriental diplomates and ministers to
Washington ; missionaries, worn out, and returning
home ; students from various parts of Asia going
to attend institutions of learning in America, — all
of whom contributed their talents and experience
toward making the voyage one of interest and
pleasure. The cargo consisted of tea, porcelain
and silk.
The distance from Yokohama to Honolulu is
3,400 miles. Besides the huge engines of the ves-
sel, every mast carried sails, contributing, with
favorable winds, fifty miles a day to her speed,
which ordinarily averaged from ten to twelve knots
an hour, according to the favors of the breeze.
The first half of this voyage was stormy, with pre-
vailing head winds, and we encountered a gale
which maintained its fury for twenty-four hours,
raging as furiously as any typhoon I had experi-
enced in the China Sea. It is not often that the
Pacific belies its name ; but on this occasion its
waves rolled mountains high, often enveloping the
whole ship from stem to stern. The storm did not
35
386 Around the World.
last long, but abated with the change of latitude,
not a great distance from Honolulu. The Pacific
again became pacific, and the remainder of the
passage was pleasant and agreeable. The route
over this portion of the ocean being clear of
islands and other objects, as well as of fog, there
is less danger of collision than on the Atlantic
side, where accidents are of frequent occurrence.
There was much more life aboard this steamer
than on any other on which I had sailed, on
account of the large number and great diversity
of the passengers. The first three days out, the
Japanese emigrants were nearly all sea-sick; but,
after they had recovered from this unpleasantness,
the scenes and occurrences among them were very
interesting, especially at meal times, when these
900 half-naked Orients could be seen rushing and
scrambling for their places with chop-sticks in
hand. Instead of "feeding the fishes," as at the
beginning of the voyage, they were now feeding
themselves, which change soon began to tell on the
rice baskets, as they gathered in basket after
basket with their chop-sticks.
Between meals they would amuse themselves by
wrestling, in which exercise they proved themselves
experts, thoroughly skilled in the art, and displayed
great activity and strength. One of the novel
features of their mode of wrestling is that, while
engaged in the exercise, they are never in an up-
Honolulu. 387
right position, but squat down on their haunches,
in this manner throwing their bodies forward and
resting upon their hands and toes when grappling
with each other. The tussle ends when one has
forced the other outside the ring made by them at
the beginning. These happy Japs contributed
largely to our amusement during these monotonous
days in mid-ocean.
On the thirteenth day out from Yokohama, we
sighted the Sandwich Islands, and on the same day
cast anchor in Honolulu. This shore presented an
agreeable change of scene after being at sea nearly
two weeks, with naught but the wide ocean in view
and the salt air for a tonic. After the officers of
the port had boarded our vessel and gone through
the usual formalities according to law, the passengers
were put ashore in a steam tender, and the vessel
remained in port thirty-eight hours to discharge
her cargo and leave the Japanese emigrants. This
brief time was occupied to a good advantage in
taking in the sights of this tropical city and its
nearest surroundings.
Honolulu is the capital of the island group, and
the residence of King Kalakaua, the reigning mon-
arch. It has a population of about 15,000, many
of whom are foreigners, consisting of Americans,
Germans, English and Chinese, and the business is
almost entirely carried on by foreign houses. It is
a lovely city, the tropical shade trees and the
388 Around the World.
luxuriant foliage in the gardens and climbing about
the verandas of the houses, adding much to its
beauty and attractiveness. It is built on a gentle
incline at the mouth of the Valley of Nuuanu, and
has for its background a long range of picturesque
hills, of the most peculiar shape.
Though favored by nature in many ways, Hono-
lulu has one of the poorest harbors which I visited.
This is on account of the long stretch of barren
coral reefs, which prevent heavily laden vessels from
entering. They are generally anchored a mile from
shore, and the cargo and passengers are transported
in barges and tenders. It is a busy and prosperous
place, owing its prosperity largely to enterprising
Americans, and Claus Spreckles, the sugar king, is
looked upon as a power in the land.
The briefest description of these islands would
be to designate them as an interesting chain of
mountains in the Pacific Ocean. In all there are
thirteen, eight of which are inhabited, and the
remainder uninhabited. All are mountainous, and
chiefly of volcanic formation, occupying an area of
7,628 square miles. The entire population of the
group amounts to about 85,000.
Hawaii, the largest of these islands, has an area
double that of all the rest combined. It contains
four volcanic mountains, the most interesting of
which is Mauna Loa, 13,600 feet in height, with a
crater 8,000 feet in diameter, and at the present
The Fate of Captain Cook. 389
time very active. Lacjt of time prevented me
from visiting it.
These islands were discovered by Captain Cook,
in 1778, over 100 years ago. He found the
inhabitants a fierce and warlike people, many of
them cannibals. He was at first received with a
friendly spirit, but afterward met his death at the
hands of a native. Much progress has been made
by the people since that time through missionaries,
and their intercourse with other nations ; and they
have become Christianized and civilized. Just
newly from Oriental cities and idolatrous scenes
and customs, as I was, the first sight of Western
civilization afforded a striking contrast ; the very
air seemed different, and I breathed freer.
Lying in the tropics, between 18 deg. 54 min.
and 22 deg. 2 min. north latitude, and 155 deg. and
161 deg. west longitude, these islands have a most
salubrious climate, and the temperature is very
even the year around. Frost is unknown, and
tropical fruits of all kinds grow in profusion.
Many consumptives and invalids from all countries
visit these islands, and experience great relief.
Honolulu and Naples have similar climates and
similar attractions, and my impressions were that
these two places would be the loveliest winter
resorts in the world, excepting our own coast
resorts, such as Monterey, Santa Barbara, San
Luis Obispo, Los Angeles and San Diego.
390 Around the World.
We barely had time to drive to the Sugar Bluff.
The Pali and sugar plantations are the first places
generally visited by tourists, and the productions
of the islands are as sweet as the climate.
The following is the last letter of this tour,
written for publication. It was mailed at Honolulu
to the Modesto Herald.
LETTER FROM HONOLULU.
Honolulu, March, 1886.
Editor Herald: — As I have kept you posted about my movements
from all the principal points in the European and Oriental world, I will now
send you my last letter of travel, from the Sandwich Islands, which is the
last point I will touch in my journey around the world. The Sandwich
Islands are 3,400 miles from Yokohama, the last point I visited in Asia, and
from that place we brought a cargo of tea, silk and porcelain ; also 900 Jap-
anese emigrants, who came under contract to work on the Spreckles sugar
plantation for the next three years.
The first half of the trip from Yokohama to Honolulu was a stormy one.
It is not often the Pacific belies its name, but our four-masted iron steamer
Peking was partly covered up in the swells of the sea, that were moving like
rolling mountains ; but as we neared Honolulu and made a change of lati-
tude and longitude, the storm abated, and the Pacific was again pacific, and
we enjoyed a pleasant passage with a calm sea.
Honolulu is a busy and interesting city, made so by American enterprise,
and the Sandwich Islands is one of the smallest countries I have visited in
my whole tour ; but it is the sweetest one, as the sugar fields extend in every
direction.
I have yet to breathe the air of the salt sea for over 2,200 miles before I
ha\&e accomplished the trip around the world. As I expect to see you in
Modesto at an early day, I will not trouble any further wit 
