Fr. Andr£ Michaux
JOURNAL OF ANDRE MICHAUX, 1793-1796
SOURCE: Englished from the original French, appearing in Amer-
ican Philosophical Society Proceedings, 1889, pp. 91-101, 114-140.
JOURNAL OF ANDRE MICHAUX
On the i5th of July 1793, 1 took leave of Citizen Genet,
Minister of the Republic of France to the United States1
and started from Philadelphia on the same date at ten
o'clock at night to avoid the great heat, and to travel by
Moonlight. The i6th, being in company with . . .
humeau and . . . Leblanc,2 we journeyed 40 miles.
The iyth, passed by Lancaster and made 35 Miles.
The 1 8th, passed by Carlisle . . . Miles and slept
at Chipesbourg [Shippensburg].
The i gth we slept at Strasbourg . . . Miles.
Sunday the 2oth, we started from Strasbourg, a small
town situate at the foot of the Mountains; one of our
horses having fallen sick we traveled only 21 Miles;
observed Magnolia acuminata, Azalea octandra, Kalmia
1 Edmond Charles Genet (Genest) was born at Versailles about 1765. His
father was a diplomat who was interested in English literature, and who wel-
comed the American coterie in Paris to his home. Henrietta Genet, later
Madame Campan, was first lady of honor to Queen Marie Antoinette; her
brother was chosen at the early age of twenty-four, secretary — later, charge
d'affaires — to the French embassy at St. Petersburg. His dispatches thence
were of so republican a tone, that in 1792 he was commissioned minister of the
new French republic, to Holland; but late hi the same year was chosen for the
mission to the United States, where he arrived April 8, 1793. His career in
America is well known. After his commission was revoked, Genet became a
naturalized American citizen, married a daughter of Governor Clinton of
New York, and died at Jamaica, Long Island, in 1834. — ED.
2 Humeau and Le Blanc appear to have been agents of Genet, assisting in
this revolutionary movement. Nothing is known of the former. Le Blanc
was a citizen of New Orleans, well-affected to the French revolutionary cause.
He was to have been made mayor of New Orleans, when that city should fall
into the hands of the revolutionists. See American Historical Association
Report, 1896, pp. 1049, I05°- — ED.
28 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
latifolia, Fagus castanea, Fagus pumila, Pinus 2-}olia,
3- folia, Strobus: Abies Canadensis; Quercus castaneaejolia
etc. Juglans nigra.
The 2ist of July started from Wells's tavern, crossed the
Juniata river . . . and noticed Rhododendron maxi-
mum, Hydrangea frutescens, Trillium erectum; slept at
Bedford. 21 Miles.
The 22nd. Started from Bedford and breakfasted at a
place 4 miles distant where the Pittsburg Road divides
into two. We took the right hand road; the Rain com-
pelled us to stop and sleep only twelve Miles from Bed-
ford.3
The 23rd we made 24 Miles and passed the summit of
the Alleganys.
The 24th we made 25 Miles.
The 2$th we passed by Green'sburg and made 31 Miles.
The 26th Rain ; we made only . . . Miles.
The 27th, we made 19 Miles and arrived in Pittsburgh.
Total 32* Miles from Philadelphia.
The 28th visited Mr. H. Brackenridge.5
The 2pth herborised; recognized on the banks of the
Monongahela, Dracocephalum Virginianum,9 Bigno-
nia radicans, Crotalaria alba? These plants grow on
3 For a description of the left-hand or southern branch of the road, known
as "The Old Glade," see Harris's Journal, post. — ED.
4 Evident error; perhaps 320 was intended. — C. S. S.
The distance in reality by this route was somewhat less than this. — ED.
5 Hugh H. Brackenridge was at this time the most prominent lawyer in
Pittsburg, whither he had come in 1781, after graduating at Princeton and
serving as chaplain in the regular army. Brackenridge was a Scotch-Irish-
man, and a Democrat in politics; therefore he sympathized with the uprising
known as the Whiskey Rebellion, and wrote a work in its defense, although his
influence had been exercised to moderate its excesses. Gallatin defeated him
for Congress in 1794; but later he took his place upon the bench of the state
supreme court, and served with great ability until his death in 1816. — ED.
' Physostegia Virginiana, Benth. — C. S. S.
1793-1796] Andre Michaux s Travels 29
the banks of the river which are submerged when the
waters are high.
The 3oth of the same, recognized a Plant of the Genus
Ziziphom . . . Cunila pulegioides1 floribus tetan-
dris; Teucrium Canadense, Eupatorium aromaticum,
Sigesbeckia . . .; Verbenae several species.
The ist of August, herborised and recognized Cassia
Marylandica; Monarda didyma; Sanicula Marylandica;
Triosteum perjoliatum; Sicyos angulata; Acer rubrum,
saccharum; Campanula, . . . ; Cercis Canadensis;
Menispermum Canadense; Actaea spicata; Tilia Ameri-
cana; Urtica divaricata; Arum triphyllum; Celtis occi-
dentalis; Panax quinquejolium; Staphylea trijoliata; Aza-
rum Canadense; Rhus typhina, glabra, vernix; copallinum,
radicans, toxicodendron; Clinopodium vulgare, incanum.
The 2nd of August recognized Aristolochia sipho or
macrophylla; Panax quinquefolium; Lobelia siphilitica;
Convallaria many species; Veronica . . . Ozalis
stricta.
The 3rd and 4th of August herborised: Cacalia 2
species, Phryma leptostachia; Leontice thalictroides; Lobelia
siphilitica, inflata, cardinalis; Eupatorium perfoliatum,
maculatum, odoratum et celestinum; Actea spicata; Podo-
phyllum peltatum; Azarum Canadense; Hydrophyllum
Canadense; Trillium cernuum; Panax quinquefolium;
Aristolochia Sipho; Menispermum . . . ; Sambucus
Canadensis fructu nigro; Sambucus . . . , fructu
rubro foliis tomentosis; TUia Americana; Laurus Sassa-
fras, benzoin; Robinia pseudocacia, Juglans oblonga,
Juglans hiccory; Plantanus occidentalis; Acer rubrum,
saccharum; Ulmus . . . ; Hamamelis . . . ,
Cynoglossum 3 species; Vitis vulpina; Dioscorea jructu
1 Hedeoma pulegiodes, Pers. — C. S. S.
30 JLarly Western Travels [Vol.3
infero; Teucrium Canadense; Scrophularia Marylandica;
Dracocephalum Virginianum; Dianthera . . . , So-
phora joliis ternis stipulis lato-lanceolatis floribus coeruleis
vexillo corolla breviore; Mimulus ringens; Bignonia radi-
cans; Cercis Canadensis; Fagus sylvatica Americana;
Circaea Canadensis; Urtica inermis; Erigeron Canadense;
Cornus florida; Rubus odorata, Rubus occidentalis: Pen-
thorum sedoides; Cephalantus occidentalis; Polygonum
aviculare, hydropiper, amphibium, scandens; Sanguinaria
Canadensis.
On the 6th of August I saw on the bank of the Monon-
gahela river opposite Pittsburgh a Coal mine at the en-
trance of which there seems to be a thickness of 15 feet
of that mineral without admixture; sometimes a ferru-
ginous tint can be distinguished between the different
layers. In several spots soft rocks are to be found which
seem good for use as whet-stones for large tools; they
seem to me to consist of a combination of sandy, clayey
and ferruginous particles with particles of mica in very
rare instances.
The soil in the neighborhood of Pittsburgh is generally
clayey, the calcareous rocks or stones of a brown color,
consisting of much muddy clay. The soil between the
two rivers on which Pittsburgh is built, is alluvial; stones
rounded and worn by the rolling of torrents have even
been found in the earth, dug up while sinking wells at a
depth of more than 30 feet.
The pth of August, when I was ready to start, the con-
ductor of the Boat on which I had embarked my baggage
came to tell me that he was waiting for the Boats destined
to convey the troops, especially as the Boat seemed too
deeply laden for that Season when the Waters are low;
there was an appearance of Rain.
1793-1796] Andre Michaux's Travels 3 1
The loth the river seems to be falling.
The nth, 1 2th and i3th we remained, awaiting the
departure.
The 1 3th three Boats arrived from the Illinois belonging
to Mr. Vigo.8 They were manned by about 30 French
Canadian or Illinois oarsmen.
A Frenchman who has resided in America for 14 years
and whose business consists in shipping supplies of flour
to New Orleans, told me that he would give me Letters
for Illinois addressed to the Commandant of the Post of
St Louis. He is at present settled in Pittsbourgh and his
name is Audrain.9 This Audrain is said to be in partner-
ship with one Louisiere or Delousiere who was exiled
from France for having been concerned in the plot to
deliver Havre to the combined English and Spanish
fleets. This Louisiere is at present absent from Pitts-
burgh. There is another Frenchman residing in Pitts-
burgh, Mr Lucas de Pentareau, an excellent Democrat,
now absent. He passes for an educated man with legal
knowledge.10
8 Col. Francis Vigo was a Sardinian, who came to Louisiana in the Spanish
army. Settling at St. Louis as a trader, he embraced the cause of American
independence, rendering substantial aid in many ways to George Rogers
Clark, in the latter's Illinois campaigns. Vigo took the oath of allegiance to
the United States, and later settled at Vincennes, where he died in poverty in
1836. His just claims upon the government were not settled until thirty years
after his death. — ED.
9 A Spanish document of this period complains of Audrain as having mis-
appropriated funds for his contracts, also charges him with being a radical
republican, receiving all the patriots at his house, where dinners were given
and toasts drunk to the downfall of monarchy. See American Historical
Association Report, 1896, p. 1049.
The commandant at St. Louis was Captain Don Zenon Trudeau, who held
the office from 1792-99. — ED.
10 This Frenchman was known in Pittsburg as J. B. C. Lucas, and was
appointed associate judge of Allegheny County in 1800. His Democratic
principles were so strong that he brought about the impeachment of his col-
league, Judge Addison, a well-known Federalist. — ED.
3 2 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
Pittsburgh is situated at the confluence of the two rivers,
Monongahela and Allegany; These two rivers unite and
form the Ohio or Belle Riviere. There are a great many
more houses on the Monongahela river than on the Alle-
gany. The number of houses is about 250 and it increases
considerably every year. The ditches are still to be seen
that served as the entrenchment of the Fort built by the
French and called Fort Duquesne. The English, since
that time, had built another almost beside it at the angle
formed by the junction of the two rivers. It was built
of brick and the Americans are demolishing it to use the
bricks in building the houses that are being erected every
day at Fort Pitt.11
The Americans have a Fort of Palisades situated behind
the town on the bank of the Allegany River; it serves as a
Depot for the arrival of the troops that are being sent
against the Savages and as a Magazine for the Munitions
sent there from Philadelphia.12
Wednesday the i4th of August, started from Pitts-
bourgh and slept at a distance of two miles only on the
point of a small island on which I found Acer negundo,
rubrum, saccharum; Evonimus capsulis glabris.19
The 1 5th recognized at 20 Miles from Pittsburgh Pavia
11 The writer here uses the term "Fort Pitt" as the name of the town; the
brick fortification which was being demolished was the one known by that
name, built by Stanwix in 1759-61. It stood between the rivers, below Third,
West, and part of Liberty streets. A redoubt, built in 1764 as a part of these
works, is still standing, and has been restored by the Pittsburg chapter of the
Daughters of the American Revolution, whom it serves as a museum. See
Frontier Forts o} Western Pennsylvania (Harrisburg, 1896), ii, pp. 99-159. — ED.
12 Fort Fayette, a stockade erected in 1792 for protection against the Indians.
It stood about a quarter of a mile above Fort Pitt, on the present Penn Street,
at the crossing of Garrison Avenue. — ED.
13 E. atropurpureus, Jacq. — C. S. S.
1 793-1 796] Andre Michaux's Travels 33
lutea, Panax quinquefolium; A Bryonia plant monoica
calyce $-fido, corolla 5 partita floribus masculis spicatis
axillaribus floribus jemineis quoque axillaribus germine
instructo spinis innocuis.14 Our journey covered 28
Miles.
The 1 6th at 7 o'clock in the morning we crossed the
boundary line between Pennsylvania and Virginia. The
line is marked by cutting down the trees on a width of
about . . . feet on the right and left of the Ohio or
Belle Riviere and this place is 45 miles from Pittsbourgh.
In the evening of the same day arrived at Buffalo Creek.
7p Miles from Pittsburgh.
The 1 7th passed by Willing [Wheeling] 92 Miles from
Pittsburgh;15 this place is inhabited by about 12 families
as is also Buffalo Creek [Wellsburg]. Owing to the con-
trary wind we traveled only 30 Miles.
Sunday August i8th 1793, saw several flocks of wild
Turkeys; wind contrary.
The igth we made 50 Miles. There are no settlements
between Willing and Marietta, a small Town situate at
the mouth of the Muskingum river. We slept at the
14 This is probably his Sicyos lobata (Echinocystis lobata of Torr. and Gray)
which, according to the Flora, was detected by Michaux "in occidentalibus
Pensylvaniae, juxta fluvium Ohio." The "corolla 5 partita" is retained by
Richard in his description. — C. S. S.
"Wheeling was founded upon land taken up by Col. Ebenezer Zane in
1770. During Lord Dunmore's War a stockade was built at this place, called
Fort Fincastle; later, the name was changed in honor of Patrick Henry, first
governor of the state of Virginia. Fort Henry was thrice besieged during the
Revolution — in 1777, 1781, and 1782. Many romantic incidents are told
of these events; most notable, that of the sortie for additional powder, success-
fully executed by Elizabeth Zane. Colonel Zane laid out the place in town-
lots in 1793; two years later, the Virginia legislature incorporated it. In 1797
Wheeling became the seat of Ohio County; and early in the nineteenth century
appeared likely to surpass Pittsburg in prosperity, and as an important empo-
rium for Western trade. — ED.'
34 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
place called Fort Harmar, situate opposite Marietta on
the right bank of the Muskingum river.1' Dianthera
americana.
The 2oth we spent the day there.
The 2ist, we passed by Little Kanhaway,17 Belpre*, and
Belleville 34 Miles.
The 22nd we saw no settlements. Recognized Polym-
nia canadensis; Acer rubrum foliis in feme glaucis; Acer
negundo, Acer saccharum, Acer foliis rugosis nervis
sublanuginosis; Annona triloba, Pavia lutea, Platanus
occidentalis.
The 23rd passed Great Kanhaway,18 4 miles before
arriving at Galliapolis on the opposite bank.
The 23rd we arrived at the settlement of Galliapolis
situate on the left bank of the Belle riviere. The houses
are all built of squared logs merely notched at the ends
instead of being Mortised (Log-house).19
The 24th remained over, visited doctor Petit who in-
spired me with the greatest respect by his good sense, his
knowledge and his virtue. It seemed to me that humanity
is the only thing that keeps him attached to that unfortu-
19 The site for Fort Harmar was chosen by Gen. Richard Butler (1785), on
his journey to Cincinnati to make peace with the Miami Indians. A detach-
ment under Major Doughty began building the fort — named in honor of
Gen. Josiah Harmar — in the autumn of this year; its completion in 1786
afforded protection to the frontier inhabitants of Virginia. Two years later
(1788), the Ohio Company of Associates — New England veterans of the
Revolution — came out under the leadership of Gen. Rufus Putnam, and began
the settlement of Marietta, "the Plymouth Rock of the West." — ED.
17 For the Little Kanawha, see Croghan's Journals, vol. i of this series,
note 98. — ED.
18 For the Great Kanawha and its historical associations, see Croghan's
Journals, vol. i of this series, note 101; also Thwaites, On the Storied Ohio. — ED.
19 For the history of this French settlement on the Ohio, see Journal of
F. A. Michaux, post. — ED.
1793-1796] Andre Michauxs Travels 35
nate colony.20 Out of the 600 persons who came there
to settle, only about 150 remain.
Sunday the 25th started from Galliapolis; at a distance
of 35 Miles recognized Iresine celosioides on the banks of
the belle riviere where they are submerged by the great
inundations. Passed a small river called Gay [Guyan-
dotte]. We saw no habitations; 40 Miles.
The 26th, saw no habitations; passed the river Scioto
. . . Miles.21
The 27th, saw a Settlement of several houses at the
place called Three Islands, ten miles before arriving at
Lime Stone;22 these Settlements are considered the first
belonging to Kentuckey. We reached Lime Stone toward
evening.23
Limestone is considered the Landing place or Port of
Kentuckey. Goods are landed there that are sent from
Philadelphia for Danville, Lexington etc. A small town
founded six years ago at a distance of 4 Miles on the
Lexington road, is called Washington and is very flour-
ishing being situate in very fertile land.
20 Jean G. Petit was the most prominent man of this settlement, acting both
as physician and judge. — ED.
21 For a description of the Scioto, and its early historical importance, see
Croghan's Journals, vol. i of this series, note 102; also Thwaites, On the Storied
Ohio.— ED.
22 The Three Islands were noted landmarks in the early history of Ken-
tucky. Kennedy and his company encamped there in 1773, but the settlement
was in a dangerous location, as this was near an Indian crossing place. In
1791, twenty men were told off to garrison the settlement. The upper island
was near Brush Creek, in Ohio. Only one island remains at this place. — ED.
23 Limestone (now Maysville) was long the chief river post for Kentucky,
but was not early settled owing to its exposure to Indian attacks. Bullitt and
the McAfees were there in 1773; Simon Kenton settled farther up on Limestone
Creek in 1776. The same year, George Rogers Clark landed at this place the
powder provided by Virginia for the protection of the Kentucky settlements.
The first blockhouse was built on the site of Limestone in 1783; four years
later, the town was incorporated by the Virginia legislature. — ED.
36 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
The 28th, visited Colonel Alexander D. Orr.24
The 2gth I left the two Companions who had come with
me from Philadelphia. They continued their journey to
Louisville while I went on by way of the inland Settle-
ments. Colonel D. Orr offered me his Company to go
with him to Lexington whither he proposed to go in a
few days.
The 3oth and 3ist herborised while waiting until horses
could be procured for the journey to Lexington. Guilan-
dina dioica; Fraxinus (quadrangularis); Gleditsia tria-
canthos; Serratula praealta; Eupatorium aromaticum,
Crepis Sibirica? etc.
Sunday ist of September 1793. Dined at Colonel
Lee's.25 *
The 2nd dined with . . . Fox and prepared my
baggage for departure.
The 3rd the journey was put off until the Following
day. The soil in the vicinity of Washington is clayey
and blackish, very rich. The stones are of an opaque
bluish calcareous Substance, full of petrifactions of sea-
shells. The bones of those monster animals supposed to
24 Alexander D. Orr was representative in Congress for Kentucky, from its
admission and through the fourth Congress (1792-97). A Virginian by birth
(1765), he removed to Mason County at an early period, and had much in-
fluence in his neighborhood, where he lived as a planter until his death, June
21, 1835. Michaux's visit to Colonel Orr is probably significant of the fact
that Orr was interested in the former's mission. — ED.
25 Gen. Henry Lee was one of the earliest settlers in Mason County. Com-
ing to Kentucky as a surveyor in 1779, six years later he established Lee's
Station, near Washington — one of the earliest in northeastern Kentucky.
Lee was Kentucky delegate in the Virginia house of burgesses (1788), a member
of the convention that adopted the federal constitution, and later member of
the Danville conventions for organizing the State of Kentucky; his political
influence, therefore, was important. Unlike many of the pioneers, he pros-
pered in business and amassed a considerable fortune, dying on his estate in
1845.— ED.
1793-1796] Andre Michaux s Travels 37
be Elephants are found in the neighborhood.28 It is to
be presumed that those bones belonged to marine Individ-
uals, judging by the great abundance of debris of marine
bodies collected in those places.
The 4th started from Washington; passed by a place
where the soil is impregnated with saline substances and
whither the Buffaloes used to go in great numbers to lick
the particles of Salt continually exuding from the surface
of the Soil. There are at this spot springs whose water
is bitter, putrid, blackish and full of mephitic air which
frees itself at the slightest movement of the soil by the
bubbles appearing on the surface of the spring as one
approaches. The people living in the neighborhood
erect ovens with kettles and extract Salt by the evapora-
tion of the water.27 We traveled 33 Miles.
The 5th we made 27 miles and, at an early hour,
reached Lexington,28 the chief town amongst the Settle-
ments of the State of Kentuckey. We passed a small
Settlement, looked upon as a town and called Paris, the
capital of Bourbon county.29 It contains about 18 houses.
28 For the history of Big Bone Lick, see Croghan's Journals, vol. i of this
series, note 104. — ED.
27 This was either May's Lick, in Mason County, or the Lower Blue Licks,
in Nicholas County. It is evident that the buffalo had nearly disappeared
from this region, where less than thirty years before Croghan had found them
in such vast numbers. Butricke (Historical Magazine, viii, p. 259) says that
in 1768 they were scarce above the Scioto River. The last buffalo was killed
in the Great Kanawha Valley, about twelve miles below Charleston, West
Virginia, in 1815. — ED.
28 There is some doubt thrown upon the commonly-accepted statement
that the first cabin at Lexington was built in 1775, and the place named in
honor of the opening battle of the Revolution, news of which had just been
received. The permanent settlement was not made until 1779; the following
year the town was made county seat of the newly-erected Fayette County, and
itself incorporated in 1782. — ED.
29 Paris was laid out in 1786, the first court of Bourbon County being held
there in 1787. Two years later, it was incorporated by the Virginia legislature
as Hopewell; the present designation was adopted in 1790. — ED.
3 8 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
There are farming Establishments along the road and
travelers now go without danger from Lime Stone to
Lexington, a distance of Sixty six miles from one place
to the other. 66 Miles.
The 6th visited two persons residing in Lexington for
whom I had Letters of introduction.
The yth herborised . . .
Sunday 8th of September was obliged to remain being
unable to hire a horse.
The gth left Lexington, went through portions of forest
lands with very scattered Plantations. Crossed the
Kentuckey river the banks of which are very close to one
another; when the waters are low there is a height of
more than 100 feet from the bank of the river to the level
of the lands bordering on it and through which it runs. I
am told that in flood-time it rises to a height of 40 feet
in one day. On arriving there one would think himself
between two ranges of very steep Mountains but in fact
it is merely a torrent or a river whose Bed has been deeply
worn. The rocks on the banks are of a calcareous
nature. Several shrubs and Plants, natives of Carolina,
grow on the cliff with a southern exposure being secured
and protected from cold by the favorable situation offered
by the great depth of the bed of the river.
The loth arrived in Danville30 and visited several per-
sons for whom I had Letters: Colonel Barbee etc, Capt.
Peter Tardivau, a witty man31 etc. etc.
80 Danville was laid off as a town by Walker Daniel in 1781, and rapidly
rose to importance, being the centre of political activity and the seat of the
conventions in which statehood for Kentucky was agitated (1785-92). After
the admission of Kentucky as a state, Frankfort was chosen capital, and the
importance of Danville declined. — ED.
81 Joshua Barbee was born in Virginia, and after serving in the Revolution
removed to the vicinity of Danville, early in the Kentucky settlement. He
was militia officer in 1791, a member of the political club of Danville, and O'
1793-1796] Andre Michaux s Travels 39
The nth, visited General Benjamin Logan whose
house is situate 12 Miles from Danville. I confided to
him the Commission entrusted to me; He told me he
would be delighted to take part in the enterprise but that
he had received a Letter a few days previously from J.
Brown32 which informed him that negotiations had been
begun between the United States and the Spaniards
respecting the navigation of the Mississipi and the Creek
Indians; That a messenger had been sent to Madrid33
and that any one of the United States that would venture
the state legislature. A man of wealth and prominence, his family became
intimately associated with Kentucky history. He died in 1839.
Pierre Tardiveau was a French merchant who had an extensive business in
the West, and connections in Bordeaux. With his partner, Honore", he car-
ried on trade with New Orleans, and made frequent trips thither. Tardiveau
embarked in Genet's enterprise, and was appointed interpreter in chief by
Michaux, who appears to have used him to communicate with agents in New
Orleans. See Claiborne, Mississippi (Jackson, 1880), pp. 152, 153; also
American Historical Association Report, 1896, pp. 952, 1026, 1096. Tardiveau
removed to Louisiana when it came under American dominion. — ED.
32 John Brown, one of Kentucky's most prominent public men, was born at
Staunton, Virginia, in 1757, and while a student at Princeton joined the Revo-
lutionary army as aid to Lafayette. At the close of the war he removed to
Kentucky, was its first representative to the old Congress (1787-89); then to
Congress under the Constitution (1789-92), where he was employed in securing
the admission of Kentucky as a state. Upon that event (1792), Brown was
sent to the United States Senate, of which he remained a prominent member
until 1805. He was a personal friend of Washington, Jefferson (with whom
he studied law), and Madison, and when he died in 1837 was the last survivor
of the Congress of the Confederation. Brown was cognizant of Michaux's
plans, and evidently sympathized with them, having been interested in previous
separatist movements for Kentucky. See Butler, Kentucky, and John Mason
Brown, "Political Beginnings of Kentucky," Filson Club Publications No. 6.
Brown gave letters of introduction to Michaux. See American Historical
Association Report, 1896, pp. 982, 983, 1010. — ED.
33 Brown refers here to the embassy of Carmichael, and the negotiations
entered into by him and Pinckney, the minister at Madrid, that ultimately led
to the treaty of 1794.
The Creek Indians lay south of the United States territory in West Florida,
and were believed by the Westerners to be incited to attacks upon Americans
by the Spanish authorities of this province and of Louisiana. — ED.
40 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
to act in a hostile manner against the Spaniards before
the return of the first of December next, would be dis-
approved by the federal Government; That he was going
to start the following day for his Establishment of Boul-
skine [Bullskin] Creek and that, after I should have con-
ferred with General Clark, he hoped the latter would, in
consequence of what I should communicate to him, make
arrangements for further conferences together34 etc. etc.
The 1 2th returned to Danville.
The 1 3th Visited (his Excellency) the Governor of the
State of Kentuckey, Isaac Shelby;35 visited the hills called
34 Michaux went to what was known as St. Asaph's, or Logan's Station, in
Lincoln County, to see the well-known pioneer and Indian fighter, Gen. Ben-
jamin Logan. Next to Clark, Logan was, doubtless, the best known person in
Kentucky, and had been chosen by Genet as second in command of the expe-
dition. That he afterwards decided to enter upon this affair, seems evident
from his letter to Clark of December 31, 1793, in American Historical Asso-
ciation Report, 1896, p. 1026. Logan was a Scotch-Irishman, born in Virginia
in 1743. When but fourteen his father died, and he was left as eldest son of
the family. Having removed to Holston, he was out with Bouquet in 1764,
and ten years later in Lord Dunmore's War. Locating his station in Kentucky
in 1775, he brought out his family the following year, and sustained many
Indian attacks as well as led several aggressive campaigns against the savages.
As county lieutenant he was a safeguard for the new settlements, and was
revered and respected by all his neighbors. Having served in the legislature
and the convention that drew up the Kentucky constitution, he died at his
home in Lincoln County in 1802. — ED.
8S There was no better-known character in the West, than Governor Shelby.
Born in Maryland in 1750, the family were of pioneer stock, and early moved
to Western Virginia, where young Shelby was sheriff (1771), and lieutenant
under his father, Evan Shelby, at the Battle of Point Pleasant (1774). The
next year he surveyed in Kentucky, and then returned to the Holston to engage
in the Revolutionary struggles. To his forethought is attributed the success
of the battle of King's Mountain, after which he served in the North Carolina
legislature. Removing to Kentucky in 1783, Shelby was welcomed as a hero
by the new community, and made the first governor of the State. He served a
second term during the War of 1812-15, reinforcing Harrison at a critical
juncture for the Western division of the army. Refusing the portfolio of war,
offered by Monroe in 1817, Shelby retired to his farm in Lincoln County, where
he died in 1826. Michaux carried letters to Shelby; see American Historical
Association Report, 1896, pp. 983, 984. On Shelby's later attitude toward the
expedition, see ibid, pp. 934, 1023, 1040, note. — ED.
I793-J796] Andre Michaux's Travels 41
Knob Licks;36 Saw several Plants especially in the salt
lands enclosed in the interior of the territory of Ken-
tuckey. Andromeda arborea.
The 1 4th left Danville for Louisville, lodged with
Cumberland ig Miles from Danville.
Sunday i5th of September 1793, 22 Miles from Dan-
ville found a sort of Tragia, a monoecian Plant, fructifica-
tion in the manner of the Euphorbias. Shortly before
reaching Beardstown recognized the rocks and stones of
calcareous substances possessing all the forms of the
Madrepores. The tops of the Mountains (hills) one
has to cross, 3 or 4 Miles before reaching Beardstown,
consist entirely of these petrified madrepores. Recog-
nized many Plants not found elsewhere: Fagara of the
State of New York; Rhamnus (Carolinian) and Rhamnus
. . . etc etc. The neighborhood would be very in-
teresting for a Botanist to visit. Dined at Beardstown37
and slept 6 miles further. 31 Miles.
The country between Beardstown and Louisville
possesses no interest for a Botanist.
The 1 6th arrived at Louisville having traveled by the
new road.38 29 Miles. In all 79 Miles from Danville.
36 Knob Licks, Lincoln County, was formed as a settlement in 1776 by
Governor Shelby. De Pauw, one of the French agents, resided here. See
American Historical Association Report, 1896, pp. 977, 1002, 1023, 1102-1106.
The Knobs were a peculiar formation of detached hillocks. — ED.
37 Beardstown (Bardstown) was an important settlement in early Kentucky
history, established (1788) near the Salt River in what is now Nelson County,
and named for the proprietor, David Baird. It is now a small village, although
still the county seat. — ED.
38 For the founding of Louisville, see Croghan's Journals, vol. i of this
series, note 106. The old road from Bardstown to Louisville went via the Salt
Works (Shepherdsville, Bullitt County), and was reckoned at forty-five miles.
See Speed, "Wilderness Road," Filson Club Publications (Louisville, 1886),
p. 17. The new road was more direct, went across country from Bardstown,
and joined the old about ten miles below Louisville. — ED.
42 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
The i yth of September visited General Clarke. I
handed him the Letters from the Minister and informed
him of the object of my Mission. He told me that he was
very eager for the Undertaking but that, although he had
written so long ago, he had received no answer and thought
it had been abandoned.39 I told him that his Letter had
fallen into other hands and that the Minister had received
it only indirectly after his arrival in Philadelphia. He
informed me that a fresh circumstance seemed to oppose
an obstacle to it.40
The 1 8th remained at Louisville and herborised.
The iQth returned to visit General Clarke . . .
The 2oth started from Louisville, passed by General
Clarke's41 and passed on to sleep near Salt river.
The 2ist passed by Beardstown. Evonimus ramulis
quadrangulis capsulis muricatis.42
Sunday September 22nd arrived once more at Dan-
ville at 5 o'clock in the evening. Wrote to Minister
Genet the same day by the Philadelphia Post."
The 23rd I rested.
The 24th started for Lexington and slept at the Ken-
tuckey river crossing.
The 25th found that my horse had wandered away. I
slept at an inn where there was no Stable; my horse
89 For the letters of Genet and Clark, see American Historical Association
Report, 1896, pp. 967, 986. — ED.
40 In Clark's letter to Genet, he seems to indicate that this obstacle was the
leaking out of the secret, by which intimations might reach the Spaniards.
Possibly he refers to the Spanish mission which caused Logan's hesitation;
see ante, note 33; also American Historical Association Report, 1896, p. 1007-
1009. — ED.
41 The home of Clark's father, with whom he resided, was known as "Mul-
berry Hill," situated in the environs of Louisville. — ED.
0 E. Americanus, L — C. S. S.
43 On the early mail routes, see Speed, Wilderness Road, pp. 65-68. — ED.
1793-1796] Andre Michaux's Travels 43
jumped over the fence and I spent the whole day looking
for him.
While so engaged I saw on the sandy beaches: Iresine
celosioides; Mollugo verticillata; On the rocks; Heuchera
Americana; Asplenium rhyzophorum; Pteris nova; Parie-
taria . . . ; Hydrangea arborescens. On the lime-
stone mountains: Serratula 2 unknown species; Cuphea
viscosa; Didynamia gymnosperma novum genus; Didy-
namia angiosperma novum genus. On the bank of the
Dickson river, Dirca palustris; Sophora floribus coerulis.
In the shady forests etc: Acer joliis argenteis an rubrum?
Acer saccharum; Fraxinus foliolis subintegris, Fraxinus
joliolis serratis ramis quadrangularis; Gleditsia triacan-
thos ; Guilandina dioica, Robinia pseudo-acacia; Evonimus
ramulis subrotundis, capsulis laevibus.
The 26th of September 1793, Rained all day; slept at a
mile from Kentuckey river at the house of ...
Hogan44 who was kind enough to lend me a horse for
nothing to go in search of mine.
The 27th arrived at Lexington distant only 20 Miles from
the crossing of Kentuckey river called Hickman junction.45
The 5th of October started from Lexington.
Sunday the 6th of the same arrived at Danville. The
same day wrote to Citizen Minister Genet.
The 7th took lodgings at Puvit's46 and received my
baggage.
44 James Hogan was a pioneer of Kentucky who settled at Bryan's Static",
before 1779, and took a leading part in its defense against Indians (1781). He
was granted (1785) by the Virginia legislature the right to maintain a ferry
across the Kentucky River. — ED.
45 The principal ferry on the road from Danville to Lexington was at the
mouth of Hickman's Creek, so named in honor of the first Baptist preacher in
Kentucky, Rev. William Hickman. — ED.
48 See letter of this date, written by Michaux to Clark (American Historical
Association Report, 1896, p. 1010), in which he gives his address at "Mte
Isham Prewitt, Jefferson County, near Danville." — ED.
44 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
The loth Sent a Messenger to Louisville.47
The 1 3th Sunday returned to Lexington and came
back on Sunday the 2oth, to Danville. Not having re-
ceived general Clark's answer I was unable to take ad-
vantage of the Post to write to the Minister at Philadel-
phia.
The 2ist received General Clark's answer.48
The loth of November 1793, Year 2 of the French
Republic, left Danville for Philadelphia after visiting
Colonel George Nicholas49 near Danville. He laid stress
upon the plan he had proposed to me the previous day
regarding the Navigation of the Mississipi. Namely:
That the Naval Forces of the Republic should seize the
Mouth of the Mississipi, declare that the Country be-
longed to them by right of Conquest and invite the Ameri-
cans of the Western Country to take advantage of the
freedom of Navigation. Then, if the Spaniards situated
higher up the river molested the Vessels carrying the
provisions conveyed by the Americans, the latter would
have the right to repel Constraint and force by force.
47 The original letter sent by this messenger is in the Wisconsin Historical
Library (Draper MSS., 55 J 5), and is printed in American Historical Associa-
tion Report, 1896, p. 1013. — ED.
48 This reply is given in American Historical Association Report, 1896, pp.
1007-1009. The break in the manuscript of Michaux's diary is occasioned
by the completion of one blank book and the commencement of another. — ED.
49 Nicholas was one of a famous coterie of Virginia constitutional lawyers.
Born in 1743, the son of a distinguished lawyer, Robert Gary Nicholas, he
served as captain in the Revolution, and at its close qualified for the bar. His
services in the Virginia convention which adopted the federal constitution,
were important. Shortly after its close he removed to Kentucky, and there
aided in the adoption of its state constitution, which is reputed to have been
drawn up by his hand. Upon the formation of the state government, he was
chosen first attorney general. Nicholas adopted a moderate position in regard
to Western politics; the scheme here outlined, seems characteristic. In 1799
he was appointed law professor in Transylvania University, but died during
the same year. — ED.
1793-1796] Andre Michaux*s Travels 45
Thus the Spanish Government would have no reason to
complain of the United States having broken through
inasmuch as the country would be reputed in the pos-
session of the French Republic.
Slept at Crab orchard distant from Danville 22 Miles.
The nth of November 1793, started from Crab Or-
chard in company with 12 persons who had assembled
at that place to pass through the Woods inhabited and
frequented by the Savages. The tract between Crab
orchard and Houlston settlement is 130 Miles wide and
is called The Wilderness.50 Slept at Longford Station.
10 Miles.
The 1 2th slept at Modnell Station 28 Miles.
The 1 3th slept at Middleton station. 28 Miles.
The 1 4th crossed low, swampy places where the water
was brown and stagnant. Six miles from Middleton
Post and 18 miles before reaching the top of Cumberland
Gap, saw a climbing fern covering an area of over six
acres of ground near the road.51 At this season when the
Frost had produced ice from 3 to 4 lines thick, this plant
was not at all injured by it. In this territory are two
places, one called Flat lick and the other Stinking Creek.
Saw near the Carcass of a Stag the . . . Raven
(Corvus cor ax). Davissas station 2 miles to the52 . . .
Cumberland Gap53 26 Miles.
80 Michaux returned to Philadelphia by the well-known ' ' Wilderness Road,' '
the chief means of exit from Kentucky. Parties frequently waited at Crab
Orchard — the western terminus in Lincoln County — until enough had gath-
ered to act as protection against the Indians. See Speed, ' ' Wilderness Road, '
Filson Club Publications, No. 2 (Louisville, 1886); also Hulbert, Historic
Highways of America, vol. vi. — ED.
81 Lygodium palmatum, Swz. — C. S. S.
B Three words are here frayed away in the manuscript of the Journal. —
C. S. S.
53 Cumberland Gap, in southeastern Kentucky, emerging into Tennessee,
was explored in 1750 by Dr. Thomas Walker, who named both mountains and
river in honor of the Duke of Cumberland, son of George II. — ED.
46 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
The 1 5th of November traveled through parts of very
high Mountains in the midst of which we crossed Clinch
river and slept at Houlston Station54 in the house of one
. . . 27 Miles.
The 1 6th followed the bank of the Houlston river and
slept at the house of ... Amis Esquire, three Miles
from Hawkin Court house.55 26 Miles.
Sunday the i yth the Rain compelled me to remain in a
a small Cabin near the North fork of Houlston 25 Miles.
The 1 8th my horse was so tired owing to the rapidity of
the journey and the bad roads across the Wilderness that
I was obliged to stop after a Journey of only eleven Miles.
jj Miles.
The i Qth started at daybreak. At the foot of the house
where I lodged, the Kentuckey road divides,56 the right
one leads to Burke court house in North Carolina passing
by the Mouth of Wataga river; the other leads to Abington
court house, the first town of Virginia. As my horse was
still tired, I made only 20 miles.
The 2oth I made 75 Miles; arrived at Abington.57
The 2ist I slept 22 Miles from Abington near Seven
Miles Ford, the middle Branch of the Houlston.
54 The Clinch and Holston rivers are upper waters of the Tennessee, in
southwestern Virginia and northeastern Tennessee. The settlements in these
valleys were among the first on the west-flowing streams. See map in Turner,
"State Making in the Revolutionary Era," in American Historical Review,
i, p. 74.— ED.
56 Both of these stations are mentioned in an early journal; see Speed, Wilder-
ness Road, p. 21. The first was the seat for Hawkins County, Tennessee. — ED.
M The forks of the road was at the junction of the north and south forks
of the Holston River, near the present town of Kingsport, Sullivan County,
Tennessee. — ED.
67 Abingdon, originally known as Wolf Hills, was one of the earliest settle-
ments in the Valley of Virginia, and the seat of Washington County. It was
established as a town in 1778. It is still the county seat, and a station on the
Norfolk & Western Railway. — ED.
1793-1796] Andre Michaux's Travels 47
The 22nd of November 1793 crossed Seven Miles ford.
The Holston river consists of three principal Branches,
namely: North fork, Seven Miles fork and South fork
of Holston river.
In the space of six miles after crossing that little river,
observed on the northern Hills bordering several small
rivers the Pinus abies canadensis, Thuya occidentalis,
Rhododendron maximum and also Magnolia acuminata
in places where the soil is very rich: Fagus chinquapin;
clayey soil, ferruginous Quartz rocks, Slates rare and
lime Stones sometimes interveined with white Quartz;
grey Squirrel (forgot to mention that, in passing Abing-
ton, saw a Tortoise 8 inches in diameter petrified in a
black calcareous substance like the Rocks abounding in
the territory) Our day's journey was 23 miles.
The 23rd of November slept in the house of a German.
During the night my horses strayed away. Between
Abington and With Court house58 among the Mountains
Abies canadensis and Thuya occidentalis.
Sunday the 24th, passed by With Court house and at
about 1 8 Miles in the steep Mountains observed Pinus
Strobus, Pinus foliis ternis (pitch pine) Pinus foliis
geminis . . . , Pinus abies canadensis, Rhododen-
dron maximum, Kalmia latifolia, Gaultheria procumbens,
Epigea repens: In more arid places, Fagus chinquapin,
Fagus castanea americana, Fagus sylvatica americana,
Andromeda arborea, Hypericum Kalmianum. Among
the damp rocks or those watered by the streams; Rocks o*
silex and also of agate slightly transparent.
From Seven Miles ford to With Court house 36 Miles.
68 Wytheville, near the centre of the county of that name, and its county
seat. — ED.
48 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
The 25th crossed the ferry called Peper's ferry59 on the
New River and afterward crossed from the West to the
East side of the Alleganies; slept on a branch of James
river called Catawba which flows eastward while the
New River flows West of the Mountains.
The 26th continued on my way to Botetort Court house
30 miles.
The 27th passed by Botetort Court house60 and by the
south Branch of the James River 12 miles from Botetort.
The 28th passed by Lexington61 40 miles distant from
Botetort and by the north branch of James river to one
Mile from Lexington. Thuya occidentalis, Pinus Strobus.
The 2pth of November, remained in Mac Dowall's
house;62 my horse's leg was so swelled that he could not
walk.
The 3oth journeyed 27 miles.
Sunday the first of December 1793 passed by Stanton,
a small and rather flourishing town situate 120 Miles
from Richemont and 75 Miles from Botetort.83
59 The early route through the Virginia Valley crossed New River at Ingles's
Ferry, a short distance west of Blacksburg, Montgomery County. A new
road shortened the distance and crossed the New River about five miles farther
up the stream, at a ferry operated by the pioneer family of Pepper. They
are alluded to in the Draper MSS., Wisconsin Historical Library, i QQ 97. — ED.
80 Botetourt Court House, now Fincastle, the seat of Botetourt County
(established in 1769), was laid off as a town in 1772 on land donated for the
purpose by Israel Christian. It was named for the ancestral seat of Lord
Botetourt, an early governor of Virginia. — ED.
81 Lexington was established by law in 1777 as county seat for Rockbridge,
then newly-formed out of Augusta and Botetourt. See ante, note 28. — ED.
82 Col. James McDowell, who lived near Fairfield, Rockbridge County,
was a descendant of the Scotch-Irish settler, Capt. John McDowell, who came
to the valley as a surveyor in 1737, and was killed in the first Indian fight
therein (1742). — ED.
83 The present roads through the Valley of Virginia follow the course de-
scribed by Michaux, passing through the same towns. Staunton is one of the
earliest towns of the region, having been settled in 1732 by John Lewis, a Scotch-
I793-I796] Andre Michaux's Travels 49
The 2nd passed by Rockyham or Rockytown64 20
miles distant from Stanton.
The 3rd passed by Woodstock,65 another small town 37
Miles from Rockytown. Between Stanton and Wood-
stock the country is mountainous, the soil rather fertile,
of a clayey nature, with calcareous rocks called Blue
limestone; Quercus rubra, alba; Fagus chinquapin and
Pinus joliis geminis, conis squamis rigidis et aculeatis.
Three miles before reaching that town, on the North of a
Hill on the road, Thuya occidentalis, Pinus joliis geminis,
Juniperus Virginiana.
The 4th started from Woodstock, passed by New-
town.86
The 5th passed by Winchester,67 35 Miles from Wood-
stock, formerly called Miller 'stown.
Irishman, whose sons Andrew and Charles were among the most prominent
borderers. Andrew commanded the Sandy Creek expedition in 1756; and at
the battle of Point Pleasant in 1774, where Charles was slain. Staunton was
laid out as a town in 1748, at the ' ' Beverly Mill Place,' ' but was not established
by act of legislature until 1761. — ED.
M This town is generally known as Harrisonburg, from its founder, Thomas
Harrison (1780). The county of Rockingham was erected in 1778, and held
its first court at the house of Daniel Smith, which was two miles north of
Harrisonburg. — ED.
85 The upper or northern portion of the Valley of Virginia was first settled
by German emigrants from Pennsylvania. Woodstock was laid off as a town
by Jacob Miller, and established by law in 1761. — ED.
88 Newtown, or Stephensburg, was founded by Lewis Stephens on the site
of his father's first claim. Peter Stephens came to Virginia in 1732, with Joist
Hite, an early settler of the northern portion of the Valley. His son estab-
lished the town in 1758, it being called Newtown to distinguish it from the
older Winchester. Newtown is now a small hamlet, without a post-office. — ED.
87 Winchester was built upon Lord Fairfax's grant in 1752. In 1738 there
were two cabins at this place, which was then called ' ' Shawnee Springs,' ' and
was the frontier outpost in that direction. The population was a mixture of
Germans and Scotch-Irishmen. Col. James Wood is accredited with the
foundation of the town of Winchester. — ED.
50 Early Western Trawls [Vol. 3
The 6th passed by Charlestown88 22 Miles from Win-
chester. Passed by Harspur ferry69 across the Potomack
river 8 miles from Charleston and entered Maryland.
The 7th passed by Fredericktown70 20 Miles from Har-
spur ferry (Potomack river) and 50 miles from Winches-
ter.
Sunday the 8th passed by Woodberry and Littletown71
35 Miles from Fredericktown.
The Qth passed by Hanover, formerly MacAllister-
town72 42 miles from Fredericktown and by Yorktown
1 8 Miles from MacAllistertown now Hanovertown.
The loth passed by the Susquehanna river and entered
88 Charlestown, in what was then Berkeley County, but now the seat for
Jefferson County, West Virginia, was laid off (1786) upon his own land by
Col. Charles Washington, brother of the general, and christened from his own
Christian name. — ED.
69 Harper's Ferry takes its name from the first settler, Robert Harper,
who formed part of the German emigration of 1734. Washington perceived
the strategic importance of this place, and recommended it as the site of a
national arsenal. — ED.
70 Frederick City, Maryland, was laid out in 1745 by Patrick Dulany, and
named in honor of the sixth Lord Baltimore. The first house, however, was
not erected on this site until 1748, when it became the seat of the newly-erected
Frederick County. Most of the early settlers were Germans, with an admix-
ture of Scotch-Irish. At Frederick the road from Virginia crossed the National
Road from Baltimore to Wheeling. — ED.
71 Woodsboro is a small village in Frederick County, Maryland. Littles-
town, in Adams County, Pennsylvania, was laid out in 1765 by one of the early
German settlers of the region, called Peter Klein (Little). It was frequently
called Petersburg in the earlier days. It is now a small station on the Freder-
icksburg branch of the Pennsylvania Railway. — ED.
72 Hanover, York County, Pennsylvania, was laid out upon a tract granted
by Lord Baltimore to John Digges in 1728. The proprietors of Maryland
claimed this region, and Digges settled a number of German immigrants upon
his tract of 10,000 acres, which was known as "Digges's Choice." A Scotch-
Irishman, Richard McAllister, emigrated thither about 1749 and acquired
great influence over the German settlers of the neighborhood, where he kept
a store and tavern. He laid out the town and named it Hanover in 1763 or
1764. — ED.
1793-1796] Andre Michaux's Travels 51
Pennsylvania eleven miles from Yorktown.73 Passed
Lancaster 1 2 miles from Harris ferry on the Susquehanna
river and 24 miles from York.74
The nth of December 1793 traveled 30 Miles.
Thursday the i2th, arrived in Philadelphia 66 miles
from Lancaster.
The 1 3th visited Citizen Genet, Minister Plenipoten-
tiary of the French Republic.
p The 1 4th Visited Mr. Jefferson, Mr. Rittenhouse75
and . . .
Sunday the i5th; Recapitulation of the journey, namely:
From Danville to Lincoln .... 12 miles
From Lincoln to Crab Orchard 10
From Crab Orchard to Langford Station . 10
From Langford to Modrell Station . . 28
Modrell to Middleton Station ... 28
Middleton to Cumberland Gap ... 24
Cumberland to Davisses Station . . 2
Davisses to Houlston . . . . 27
Houlston to Hawkin Court house . . 22
73 Michaux is mistaken in placing the Pennsylvania boundary so far north,
as he had entered that state before reaching Littlestown. This territory, how-
ever, had been in dispute between Pennsylvania and Maryland, but was settled
by the running of Mason and Dixon's line in 1763. York was not settled on the
lands of the Penn estate until 1741, when there were 2,000 settlers within the
bounds of what is now York County. The town became an incorporated
borough in 1785. — ED.
74 For the early history of Harris Ferry, see Post's Journals, vol. i of this
series, note 73. — ED.
n Dr. Daniel Rittenhouse was one of America's best known scientists. Born
in Pennsylvania in 1732, his talent for mathematics early manifested itself,
and he became a clock and instrument maker, and finally an astronomer of
much repute. He held important positions in the new State of Pennsylvania,
was its treasurer (1777-89), also first director of the United States mint. Ritten-
house was employed to settle the boundary between Virginia and his own
state, and during 1784-85 was in service in the field, directing the running of
the line. He succeeded Franklin as president of the American Philosophical
Society in 1790, retaining the office until his death in 1796. — ED.
5 2 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
Hawkin to ... Amis . . • . 3 miles
Amis to North Fork of Houlston . „ 25
North fork to Carolina fork . . « 31
From the fork to Abington formerly Washington
Court House in Virginia . . . 15
From Abington to Seven Mile ford . . \ , 76
From seven Mile ford to With Courthouse j
From With Court house to Peper ferry . 33
From Peper ferry to Botetout Court house . 50
From Boteton to James River South fork . 12
From James river South fork to Lexington . 28
From Lexington to Stanton ... 35
From Stanton to Rockytown ... 20
From Rockyham to Woodstock . . . 37
From Woodstock to Winchester . . 35
From Winchester to Charleston . . . 22
From Charleston to Harpur ferry or Potomack 8
From Potomack to Fredericktown . . 20
From Fredericktown to Littletown . . 35
From Littletown to Hanover formerly MacAlis-
ter 7
From Hanover to Yorktown . . . 18
From York to Susquehanna, Harris ferry . 1 1
From Susquehanna to Lancaster . . 12
From Lancaster to Philadelphia . . 66
Total 746 Miles
From Danville to Lexington ... 33 Miles
From Danville to Louisville77 . . . 84 "
71 The manuscript is so frayed that the figures for these two distances are
destroyed. The footing requires 60 M. for the two. — C. S. S.
"Michaux remained in Philadelphia until February 9, 1794, chiefly occu-
pied with his botanical pursuits, and in getting his accounts audited. Proceed-
1793-1796] Andre Michaux s Travels 53
The 3oth Germinal in the 3rd year of the French Re-
public One and Indivisible (Sunday igth of April 1795
old style) started to go and herborise in the high Mountains
of the Carolinas and afterward to visit the Western ter-
ritories. Plants seen before arriving at Monk's corner:
Heuchem . . . , Vicia 2 species, Smilax herbacea
erecta, Melampodium? . . . Polygonum necessaria,
Silene Virginica, Phlox lanceolata then in flower, Vale-
riana. Slept at 45 Mile House.
The loth Floreal (20th of April,) around forty five
Mile house, Valeriana\ 3 Miles before reaching Neilson's
ferry Gnaphalium dioicuin, Uvularia ? On the said 2oth
of April a new tree of the Santee river, elm-leaved, fructus
muricati capsula muricata, semen unicum subovatum.79
These seeds were then almost ripe; Celtis occidentalis
flowers . . ,79 and lower male flowers.
Slept 77 Miles from Charleston.
The 2ist of April noticed on the Santee High-hills:
Phlox with white flowers and Phlox with pink flowers,
two different species, very small Phlox with lance shaped
leaves; Saw in the neighborhood of Monk's corner Lupi-
nus hirsutus in flower. Dined with Dr . . . ; slept
at Statesboroug.
The 22nd passed by Cambden; five miles beyond, a new
Kalmia; it was not yet in flower. Slept 10 Miles beyond
Cambden.
ing south on horseback, he arrived at Charleston March 14, 1794, where he
consulted with the French consul, Mangourit, concerning the Florida portion
of the expedition against ; French territory. See American Historical Associa-
tion Report, 1897, pp. 569-679. Upon the collapse of this project, Michaux
undertook a botanizing tour to the mountains of North Carolina, from July
14, to October 2, 1794. Upon his return, he had an attack of fever for "more
than six weeks," and passed the remainder of the winter in arranging his garden
and classifying his plants. — ED.
78 Planera aquatica, Gmel. (P. Gmelini, Michx.). — C. S. S.
79 A word here is illegible in the manuscript. — C. S. S.
54 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
The 23rd of April passed by Flat rock, by Hanging
rock Creek and slept at Cane Creek, Lancaster county,
in the house of a Mr May; my horse strayed away during
the night and following his traces it was found that he
had passed by Mr Lee's.
The 24th I was obliged to look for him all day. Mr
Lee also sent his son and his negro to search for him.
He procured me a Horse to go on my quest and after-
ward invited me to lodge with him; he overwhelmed me
with civilities.80
The 25th, the horse came to Mr Lee's house of his
accord. Plants on the creek: Dodecatheon Meadia,
Asarum Canadense, Claytonia Virginica, Erythronium
dens-leonis.
Sunday 26th of April, started from Cane Creek, passed
by Land'sford on the Catawba river. But the real road
is from Cane Creek, ask for Colonel Crawford's house or
Plantation on the Waxsaw, then pass MacClean Hands
ferry on the Catawba; Thence straight to the Iron works
called Hill's Iron Works operated by Colonel Hill.81
Thus from Cane Creek to Waxsaw . . . Miles;
From Waxsaw to Iron Works, York county . . .
The 27th passed Iron Works about 32 miles from Cane
Creek.
80 Probably this was Thomas Lee, son of a Revolutionary patriot, and
usually a dweller in Charleston. In 1792, however, he married and afterwards
lived for some time on his estate in the up-country. Born in Charleston in
1769, he was admitted to the bar in 1790, and later was assistant judge (1804-16),
and United States district judge (1823-39). He was one of the most prominent
South Carolinians of his day. — ED.
81 These were the most important iron-works in the state; their owner had
invented an improved water-blast, and had a forge, furnace, rolling mill, and
nail factory. — ED.
1793-1796] Andre Michaux's Travels 55
The 28th passed by Armstrong82 ford on the south
branch of the Catawba, 12 miles from Iron Works.
The same day passed by the dwelling of Bennet Smith
where there is a . . . Magnolia, 12 Miles from
Armstrong ford.
The 29th passed by Lincoln,83 12 Miles from Bennet
Smith's and 36 miles from Iron Works.
Thursday 3oth of April passed by the dwelling of Old
man Wilson84 9 miles from Lincoln and 6 Miles from
Robertson's. Reached Morganton85 30 Miles from Rob-
ertson.
The ist of May spent the day at Morganton and her-
borised in the neighborhood.
The 2nd spent the day at Colonel Avery's,86 4 miles
from Morganton.
83 Col. Martin Armstrong was a Revolutionary soldier in command of the
local militia, and much engaged in the war against the Tories. After the
battle of King's Mountain, he took over the command from Benjamin Cleve-
land.— ED.
83 Lincolnton is the seat of Lincoln County, which was originally part of Ty-
ron. The name was changed in 1779 in honor of the patriot leader, Gen.
Benjamin Lincoln. This entire region was a centre of agitation for indepen-
dence; and in 1780 a fierce battle between Whigs and Tories was fought at
Ramsour's Mills, near Lincolnton. — ED.
84 Probably this was Capt. Zaccheus Wilson, a Scotch-Irish resident of
this region who migrated thither from Pennsylvania between 1740 and 1750.
Wilson was an ardent patriot, a member of the Mechlenburg convention in
1775, of the provincial congress of the state the following year, and a captain
at King's Mountain in 1780. In 1796 he followed his brother David to Ten-
nessee, where he lived until his death in 1823 or 1824. — ED.
85 Morganton is the oldest town in the mountainous district of North Caro-
lina, having been founded during the Revolution, and named in honor of Gen.
Daniel Morgan. The settlers of this region were largely Scotch-Irish, who had
emigrated from Pennsylvania by way of the Valley of Virginia. — ED.
81 Col. Waightstill Avery was of New England origin, born in Connecticut
in 1743. At the age of twenty-three he was graduated at Princeton, and after
studying law in Maryland removed to North Carolina in 1769. He was very
influential in the upper country, a member of the Mechlenburg convention of
1775, and of the state provincial congress the following year. After a campaign
56 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
Sunday 3rd of May started for the Mountains; at a
distance of 14 Miles from Burke is Wagely's house.
The Lineville Mountains at whose foot this house is
situated, abound in Magnolia auriculata. They were
then in flower. From Wagely's to Captain Young's is 8
Miles.
The 4th of May left Young's. The distance to Ains-
wort's is 2 Miles but by going to the right one reaches the
foot of a very high Mountain 3 Miles from Young's.
The summit is 5 Miles from Young's.
From the summit of the Mountain at Young's to
Bright's, called Bright's Settlement, the distance is 3
Miles and from Bright's to Davin Port's 2 Miles, making
10 Miles in all from Young's to Davin Port's.87
The 5th of May herborised in the vicinity of the dwell-
ings of Davin Port and Wiseman.
The 6th started for the Mountains, namely: Round
[Roan] Mountain and Yellow Mountain; Toe River
flows between these Mountains. All the Convallaria
were in flower as well as the Podophyllum diphyllum and
umbellatum.
Sunday loth of May 1795 returned from the Mountains
to the dwelling of Davin Port.
against the Cherokees, he was commissioned to negotiate a treaty with this
tribe in 1777. During the war Colonel Avery was in active service as a militia
officer; at its close he settled four miles from Morgan ton, calling his planta-
tion "Swan Ponds." Five times Burke County sent him to the state legisla-
ture, and in 1796 to the senate. Andrew Jackson challenged Avery to a duel
in 1788, but later became his firm friend. He died about 1821. — ED.
87 Michaux followed the well-known Bright's trace, by which communi-
cation was maintained between the settlements of East Tennessee and those
of Western North Carolina. Over this road came the men who won the victory
at King's Mountain in 1780. Bright's place is now in the possession of the
Avery family. Martin Davenport resided at a noted spring not far from Toe
River, in Mitchell County, North Carolina. He was a well-known Whig;
his son William became a man of prominence, several times representing his
county in the state legislature. — ED.
1793-1796] Andre Michaux's Travels 57
The nth herborised on the Mountains facing the
dwelling. The distance to the summit of the Bleue
Ridges at the part called Rompback is about 3 Miles; on
the first Mountains are to be seen in very great abundance
the Azalea foliis apice glandulosis, Azalea lutea. There
is no other Azalea on the Hills surrounding the dwellings
of Davin Port and Wiseman but this yellow-flowered
species. That on the River banks is generally that with
carnation flowers and that with white flowers.88
The 1 2th ascended the summit of the Blueridges,
Rhododendron minus in flower, Cypripedium Luteum.
The 1 3th of May started to continue my journey. At
Noon arrived at the foot of Yellow Mountain 10 Miles.
In the evening came to sleep at the house of John Miller
12 Miles from the Mountain. Thus there are 22 Miles
from Davin Port's to Miller's; at a distance of half a mile
one commences to cross Doe River.
The 1 4th followed and crossed Doe river 27 times. It
is dangerous when the waters are high. Slept at the
house of Colonel Tipton,89 20 Miles from Miller's.
The 1 5th passed by Johnsboroug90 10 Miles from
Colonel Tipton's dwelling and 84 Miles from Burke Court
house. Slept at the house of Anthony Moore near Noley-
chukey river. During the night my horse strayed away.
88 Rhododendron arborescens, Torrey. — C. S. S.
89 Col. John Tipton was one of the noted pioneers of Tennessee. Born in
Virginia, he early removed to Eastern Tennessee, and was engaged in the
defense of the frontier. Upon the inauguration of the state of Franklin, Tipton
joined the North Carolina party, and a fierce factional struggle ensued, which
culminated in the arrest of Colonel Sevier by Tipton's agency. Tipton lived
east of Jonesborough, on Sinking Creek. — ED.
90 Jonesborough is the oldest town in Tennessee, having been founded in
1779 and named in honor of Willie Jones, Esq., an active patriot of Halifax,
North Carolina, and a warm friend of the Western counties. Jonesborough
was the first capital of Washington District, and is still the seat of Washington
county. — ED.
5 8 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
The 1 6th, Sunday i7th, & i8th were spent in search-
ing for my horse.
The igth bought another horse for the price of fifty
Dollars from an inhabitant of Noley Chukey river named
. . . Earnest, a neighbor of one Andrew Fox. The
Magnolia tripetala abounds on the banks of Noley
Chukey.
Wednesday 2oth of May, passed by Green Court house
27 Miles from John's Borough and the road to Kentuckey,
taking the right hand and passing by ... ferry on
the Holston river. Continuing straight on the road leads
to Knoxville. By going to the left a little before Green
the road leads to Frenchbroad.91 The distance from
John Borough to Green Court house is 27 Miles.
The 2ist passed by Bull's Gap 18 Miles from Green.92
The 22nd passed by Iron Works93 30 Miles from Bull's
gap. The distance to the river called Houlston river is
only four miles. Two miles from Iron Works is a Rock
of mineral, pieces whereof on being crushed and reduced
to powder dye cotton red ; this mineral is boiled etc.
The 23rd as my horse was injured I was obliged to
remain a Mile from Iron Works on Mossy Creek at the
house of one Newman. Near his house (% mile) is to
be found the mineral that I take to be Antimony.
Sunday 24th, arrived at Colonel King's on the Houl-
91 Greene Court House is now Greeneville, seat of Greene County. From
here two roads branch off, that to the right toward Cumberland Gap and Ken-
tucky; that to the left through Newport and Sevierville, along the French
Broad Valley. Michaux took, as he says, the right hand road, leaving it, how-
ever, beyond Russelville, and continuing by this upper and less frequented
road to Knoxville. — ED.
92 Bull's Gap is a pass in Bay's Mountain, between Jefferson and Greene
counties, named probably for Captain Bull, an early pioneer. — ED.
98 This was one of the earliest forges in Tennessee; it was in Jefferson County,
not far from Mossy Creek. — ED.
1793-1796] Andre Michaux's Travels 59
ston river at the place called Macby ferry94 15 Miles from
Iron Works.
The 25th crossed the ferry and arrived at Knoxville 15
miles from Macby ferry, the residence of the Governor of
the Western territories, no Miles from Johnsborough.95
Plants and Trees of the Territory of Knoxville and of the
neighboring country: Quercus prinus saxosa; Quercus
prinus humilis; Quercus rubra; Quercus proemorsa; Quer-
cus tomentosa; Quercus pinnatifida; Quercus alba . . .
Ulmus viscosa; Ulmus jungosa; Fraxinus . . . Dio-
spiros Virginiana; Liquidambar styraciflua; Juglans nigra,
alba or oblonga, hiccory pignut. Platanus occidentalis;
Nyssa aquatica; Fagus castanea americana; Fagus pumila;
Fagus sylvatica americana; Magnolia acuminata; Betula
alnus americanus; Cercis Canadensis; Cornus florida;
Evonimus latifolius, Evonimus Americanus; Podophyllum
peltatum; Jeffersonia; Sanguinaria Canadensis; Trillium
sessile.
Remained the whole week at Knoxville and herborised
in the vicinity while awaiting a sufficiently numerous
caravan to pass through the Wilderness.
Sunday 3ist of May received notice that twenty five
M McBee's Ferry, crossing the Holston in the northwestern corner of Knox
County, was a well-known landmark of this region. — ED.
95 Knoxville was settled by James White in 1787, and at first called White's
Station. In 1791 a town was laid out, named in honor of General Knox,
which after the establishment of territorial government became the capital.
The first governor of the territory was William Blount, who was born in North
Carolina in 1749, and was active both in the War of the Regulators (1771), and
in the Revolution. Blount was a member of the North Carolina legislature
and later of the national constitutional convention. Washington appointed
him governor of Southwest Territory, and on the admission of Tennessee as a
state he was chosen first state senator. For intriguing with foreign emissaries
he was impeached, and expelled from the Senate. The people, however, showed
their confidence by choosing him to the state senate (1797). He died in Knox
County in 1800. — ED.
60 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
armed travelers were on the point of arriving at Knox-
ville.
Monday ist of June 1795, old style, the journey was
again put off.
Thursday 4th of June started from Knoxville and slept
15 miles away at captain Camel's at the place called
Camel [Campbell] station.
Friday the 5th, slept at the place called West Point on
Clinch river, a Post of soldiers guarding the frontiers of
the territory,98 25 Miles from Camel station.
The 6th started and crossed the river in a Scow or
ferry connected with West point station. Our journey
covered 10 miles. The Travelers consisted of 15 armed
men and more than thirty women and children.
Sunday 7th of June crossed the Mountains called Cum-
berland Mountains, 22 Miles.
The 8th continued our march in the Mountains 23
Miles. Magnolia petalis basi purpureis.07
Tuesday gth of June 1795, alternately ascended and
descended the Mountains. In the bottom lands Magno-
lia tripetala in abundance, 25 Miles.
The loth arrived at the Cumberland River, 10 Miles,
and slept beyond the 2oth Mile.
The nth arrived at Blodsoe Lick or Blodsoe station,88
20 Miles. 120 Miles in all of the Wilderness.
98 Fort Southwest Point, as it was usually called, was erected in 1792 at
the junction of Clinch and Holston rivers, near the present town of Kingston,
as an outpost on the road to Western Tennessee, and a protection against the
Cherokee Indians. As late as 1803 travellers found it safer to go in company
through this wilderness. See journal of F. A. Michaux, post. — ED.
17 Probably M . macrophylla, Michx. In the Flora, it is described as only
growing "in regionibus occidentalibus fluvio Tennassee trajectis." — C. S. S.
18 Isaac Bledsoe was one of a party of hunters who discovered this lick
(near Gallatin, in Sumner County) as early as 1771. He removed hither in
1779 and founded a station; he was also one of the framers of the Cumberland
1793-1796] Andre Michaux s Travels 61
Slept at this place where there is food for men and
Horses.
Friday the i2th, came one mile to Colonel Winches-
ter's;99 slept there two nights to rest myself and my Horse.
Sunday the i4th herborised.
The 1 5th came to the house of a resident near Cumber-
land River, Mr. Jackson;100 soil fertile. Oaks, Quercus
prinus: Quercus rubra, Quercus glandibus magnis, capsulci
includentibus, called Overcup White Oak.101 Quercus
tomentosa,102 Quercus praemorsa. 25 Miles.
The 1 6th arrived at Nashville 12 Miles.
Total 197 Miles from Knoxville to Nashville, the capital
of the Cumberland Settlements on the Cumberland
river.103
Association, and a faithful adherent of Robertson. His brother, Col. Anthony
Bledsoe, who had a reputation as a leader in the Holtson settlement, later
removed to Cumberland, and was an able second in command on Indian expe-
ditions, especially that against the Chickamaugas in 1787. He was killed by
Indians at Blcdsoe's Station in 1788. The spring at this place is now called
' ' Castilian Springs.' '— ED.
** Gen. James Winchester, born in Maryland in 1752, served in the Revo-
lution, after which he removed to Tennessee, and settled not far from Gallatin,
in Sumner County. He served in the territorial and state militia, and in 1812
was appointed brigadier-general in the regular army, superseding Harrison in
command of the Western division. Captured at the River Raisin, he was
exchanged in 1814, resigned the following year, and died at his home in Ten-
nessee in 1826. — ED.
100 Michaux's remark indicates the obscurity of Andrew Jackson at this
early period of his history. He then lived upon a plantation called Hunter's
Hill, thirteen miles from Nashville, not having removed to the "Hermitage"
(two miles beyond) until 1804. — ED.
101 Quercus macrocarpa, Michx. — here first mentioned. — C. S. S.
102 Q. bicolor, Willd.— C. S. S.
103 Nashville was founded by James Robertson, who in 1779 came overland
from the settlements of Eastern Tennessee. Donelson's party, which went via
the rivers, did not arrive until April of the following year. Being beyond the
jurisdiction of any state, the settlers drew up a compact under which they h'ved
until the organization (1783) of Davidson County as a part of North Carolina.
The town, named for the patriot General Nash, was until 1784 called Nash-
6 2 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
The i yth visited various persons, Daniel Smith,104
Colonel Robertson,105 Captain Gordon, [G. M.] Deade-
rick, Dr White, Thomas Craighead106 etc. etc.
Herborised on the following days.
Trees of Nashville Territory:
Quercus prinus; Quercus phellos latijolia; Quercus
pinnatifida; Quercus joliis lyratis subtus tomentosis caly-
cibus maximis margine laciniatis glandibus indudentibus
Vulgo; Over cup White Oak;107 Quercus rubra; Quercus
tomentosa; Acer saccharum, Acer negundo, Acer rubrum;
Juglans nigra, oblonga, hiccory: Platanus occidentalis;
Liquidamber styraciflua; Ulmus wscosa }ungosa;los Car-
pinus Ostrya americana; Rhamnus Alaternus latifolius,
Rhamnus frangula?109 jrutex prunijer; Juniperus Vir-
giniana. Banks of Cumberland river Philadelphus ino-
borough. Nashville was incorporated in 1806. The legislature met at this
city in 1812-16 and after 1826, but the city was not made the permanent capital
until 1843. — ED.
104 See description of visit to Daniel Smith, brother-in-law of Andrew Jack-
son, in Journal of F. A. Michaux, post. — ED.
106 Gen. James Robertson, the founder of West Tennessee, was born in
Virginia in 1742, but removed to North Carolina at an early age, and was one
of the first settlers of Watauga. In 1774 he took part in Dunmore's War, de-
fended the Watauga fort in a siege in 1776, and three years later removed with
a party to the Cumberland. This settlement was maintained only by heroic
exertions, and the courage and wisdom of Robertson in his dealing with the
Indians. In 1790, Washington appointed him brigadier-general and Indian
commissioner. He died in the Chickasaw country in 1814. — ED.
108 These were all prominent early settlers of Cumberland. Captain Gor-
don was commander in several Indian affrays, notably the Nickajack expedi-
tion, and served under Jackson in 1813. Thomas Craighead was the first
clergyman in Nashville, where he arrived in 1785 and built a school-house at
Spring Hill. He was an especial friend of Andrew Jackson, whose wife was a
member of his church (Presbyterian). — ED.
107 Q. lyrata, Nutt— C. S. S.
108 Ulmus fulva, Michx.— C. S. S.
108 Rhamnus Caroliniana, Gray.— C. S. S.
1793-1796] Andre Michaux's Travels 63
dorus; Aristolochia siphotomentosa;110 Mimosa erecta-
herbacea; Mirabilis111 clandestina seu umbellate, sen parvi-
flora; Hypericum Kalmianum grandiflorum.™
Soil of Nashville clayey, rocky, limestone Rocks some-
what similar to the Kentuckey formation, position of the
Rocks horizontal, occasionally Quartz Veins in the Rocks,
abounding in marine petrifactions.
Sunday 2ist of June 1795, killed and skinned some
birds.
Birds: Robin, Cardinal, Tetrao (grouse), Lanius Ty-
rannus rare, Quantities of the Genus Muscicopa; few
species of the Genus Picus: Wild Turkeys. Quadrupeds:
Musk-rat, Beaver, Elk, dwarf Deer, Bears, Buffalos,
Wolves, small grey Squirrels.
Minerals: soil clayey. Limestone Rocks always in a
horizontal position; impure Slate, flocks of schistus;
Petrifactions of land and fresh-water shells.
Monday 22nd of June 1795 (Old style) 4th of Messidor
in the 3rd year of the Republic, started from Nashville
for Kentuckey; passed by Mansko's Lick,118 12 miles from
Nashville; slept at Major Sharp's 1M 29 Miles from Nash-
ville.
110 A. tomentosa, Sims.— C. S. S.
111 Oxybaphus nyctagineus, Sweet. (Attionia nyctaginea, Michx.). — C. S. S.
112 Probably Hypericum aureum, Bartram. — C. S. S.
113 Mansco Lick was in the northeastern part of Davidson County, named
for its discoverer, Kasper Mansco (Mansker), who was one of the party of
Long Hunters in 1769. On his adventures, see Roosevelt, Winning of the
West, i, pp. 147 ff. — ED.
114 Major Sharp had formerly lived in Washington County, Virginia, whence
he had gone out to serve at the battle of King's Mountain. He removed to
Kentucky soon after the Revolution, and later settled in the Barrens. His son,
Solomon P. Sharp, born in 1780, became one of the most noted Kentucky
lawyers and political leaders, serving in the thirteenth and fourteenth Con-
gresses, a friend and adherent of Calhoun. He was assassinated in the midst
of a brilliant career. — ED.
64 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
The 23rd crossed the Barren oaks and slept at [Drake's]
Creek. There is no house in the interval. The Soil
produces only black oaks. 30 Miles.
The 24th passed by Big Barren River. The man who
keeps the Ferry is well supplied with provisions.115 The
distance is 3 Miles from [Drake] Creek.
Crossed the Barrens and slept on the ground without
a fire and without allowing my horse to graze at large
through fear of the Savages.
The 25th passed by Little Barren River, the first house
43 Miles from Big Barren River. Afterward passed by
Green River 6 Miles from Little Barren River.
The 26th passed by Roland [Rolling] fork, head of Salt
River, 30 Miles from Green River.
The 27th arrived at Danville 35 Miles from Roland old
fork.
From Nashville to Danville, the oldest town in Ken-
tuckey 117 Miles.
Sunday 28th of June rested.
The 2pth skinned three striped Squirrels (Sciurus
striatus)
The 3oth herborised.
Wednesday ist of July 1795 visited several residents.
The 2nd continued rain.
The 3rd put my old Collections in order.
The 4th
Sunday 5th of July116
Sunday i2th of July dined with the Governor of the
State of Kentuckey, Isaac Shelby.
Thursday i6th of July 1795 left Danville.
116 This was Andrew McFadden, who settled a station and ferry at this-
point in 1785, and was a well-known character of that region. — ED.
118 A part of one leaf of the Journal is here left blank. — C. S. S.
I793-I796! Andre Michaux's Travels 65
The i yth passed by Beardston forty three Miles from
Danville.
The 1 8th arrived at Stanford's near Man's Lick.117
Sunday ipth remained to await my Baggage.
The 2oth remained, and being obliged to stay, watched
the Process of manufacturing Salt. The Wells for get-
ting the salt water are dug to a depth of about . . .
feet. Muddy clay is met with to a depth of . . . feet.
Then . . . feet of slatey rock. When the rock is
pierced the salt water is found at a depth of more than
. . . feet. This slate burns in the fire as if impreg-
nated with bitumen or entirely made up of that substance.
Bones of those great marine bodies that are rather fre-
quently met with on the banks of the Ohio have been
found in the impure clay that was dug up to reach the
slatey rock.
The 2ist of July, arrived at Louisville, 40 Miles from
Beardstown.
The 22nd and 23rd remained and herborised.
The 24th returned to Manslick, 16 Miles from Louis-
ville.
The 25th returned to Louisville.
Sunday 26th of July herborised.
Plants in the neighborhood of Louisville: Quercus
cerroides,118 Quercus rubra; Quercus alba; Quercus prinus;
Liriodendron; Fagus castanea, Fagus sylvatica; Rhus
joliis alatis dioique; Hibiscus110 foliis hastatis calyce
exteriore lacinis subulatis flore pallide roseo.no
117 Mann's Lick was a salt station before 1786; it was on the road from
Shepherdsville to Louisville, on the southern border of Jefferson County. — ED.
118 Probably some form of Quercus alba, Michx. — C. S. S.
119 Hibiscus militaris, Cav. (H. hastatus, Michx.). — C. S. S.
120 Here follow to the end of this part of the Journal separate memoranda
on loose sheets. — C. S. S. We omit these. — ED.
66 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
Saturday first of August made ready to leave for the
Wabash and the Illinois.
Sunday the 2nd I was invited to dine with a French-
man named La Cassagne,121 a resident of Louisville for
more than 15 Years.
Trees, shrubs and Plants of Louisville territory:
Liriodendron tulipifera; Platanus occidentalis; Acer
rubrum joins ^nferne argenteis; Fagus sylvatica ameri-
cana; Quercus rubra; Quercus alba, Quercus praemorsa,"*
Quercus prinus, Quercus cerroides;122 Tilia americana;
Juglans nigra, Juglans alba, Juglans hiccory, (Juglans
pacane rare) ; Gleditsia triacanthos, Guilandina dioica.
Sunday gth of August 1795, started from Louisville
and slept at Clarksville,123 two miles from Louisville on
the opposite Bank of the Ohio.
The loth we set out and arrived at Post Vincennes
situate on the Wabash River on Thursday the i3th of
August in the evening.124 The distance is considered to
be one hundred and twenty five Miles. On the day of
our arrival we crossed a River about 20 miles before
reaching Post Vincennes and although the Waters were
then very low we were on the point of making a Raft for
the Country is not inhabited along this Road. Of all the
121 Michael Lacassagne was one of the richest and most prominent merchants
of Louisville; he enjoyed the confidence of the community, and was a member
of the Kentucky convention of 1787. — ED.
122 It is not clear what species are here referred to. Q. praemorsa is prob-
ably Q. macrocarpa, and Q. cerroides some form of Q. alba, although later in
the journal it is spoken of as an overcup oak. — C. S. S.
128 Clarksville, named in honor of Gen. George Rogers Clark, was intended
as the metropolis of the Illinois grant of 150,000 acres, which was made by the
Virginia legislature in 1783 to the officers and soldiers of the Illinois regiment
which had served with Clark. A board of trustees was established for the
town, and a few of the former officers settled here; but the place did not thrive,
and is now but a suburb of New Albany. — ED.
124 For the early history of Vincennes, see Croghan's Journals, vol. i of this
series, note 113. — ED.
1793-1796] Andre Michaux's Travels 67
Journeys I have made in America in the past 10 years
this is one of the most difficult owing to the quantity of
Trees overturned by storms, to the thick brushwood
through which one is obliged to pass; to the numbers of
Flies by which one is devoured, etc.
The 1 4th, i5th and Sunday the i6th of August I was
obliged to rest having arrived almost ill. My horse,
while trying to jump over the trunk of a large fallen tree,
fell and threw me a great distance and I suffered for
several days from an injury to the lower part of the Chest
on the left side because the trigger of my gun had struck
there.
The i yth spent a portion of the day herborising on the
banks of the Wabash River.
I continued herborising on the following days.
The 1 8th of August 1795
List of Plants observed on the Wabash :
No. i — Verbena125 urtici folia caule erecto, paniculis
divancatis, bracteis flore brevioribus, floribus albis.
No 2 — Verbena"6 . . . , caule erecto, paniculis
fastigiatis erectis, bracteis et calycibus pilosis, floribus
purpureo-ceruleis.
No 3 — Verbena121 caule erecto, paniculis rectis ]oliis
ovatis, tomentosis, duplicato-serratis.
No 4 — Verbena . . .
No 5 — Verbena129 caule repente, foliis pinnatifidis,
bracteis longissimis.
Silphium perfoliatum, Silphium connatum, Silphium
laciniatum, Silphium grandifolium, Silphium trijoliatum,
Silphium pinnatifidum. Andropogon muticum; Holcus?
125 V. urticifolia, L.— C. S. S.
m V. hastata, L. ? — C. S. S.
m V. stricta, Vent. (V. ringens, Michx.).— C. S. S.
128 V. bracteosa, Michx.— C. S. S.
68 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
. . . ; Poa . . . ; Quercus cerroides Ch$ne frise,
Overcup White Oak; Quercus latifolia Chene a latte
Ram's Oak ; Quercus . . . Polygonum aviculare stam-
inibus 5, Stylis 3; Polygonum aviculare ma jus staminibus
5, Stylis 3. Trifolium? pentandrum ma jus; Trifolium?
pentandrum floribus purpureis; Sanicula129 marylandica
or [called] Racine a Becquel by the Illinois French and
Sakintepouah by the Pians130 Savages: A decoction of the
root is a sovereign remedy for several diseases and for
long-continued venereal diseases.
Sunday 23rd of August 1795 started from Post Vin-
cennes situated on the Wabash River for the Illinois on
the Mississipi. We journeyed six Miles and camped
on the bank of a Little River [Embarras]. I had no
other company than a Savage and his wife. I had hired
the Savage for ten Dollars and promised him two Dollars
more to induce him to carry all my baggage on his horse.
The 24th we made about 25 Miles; the Savage was ill
and was obliged to stop more than three hours before
sunset.
The 25th crossed several Prairies. Observed a new
species of Gerardta.1*1 Stalk commonly simple, oval
leaves opposite one another, sessile, axillary flowers pur-
purine flowers.
The 26th the Provision of meat was consumed. The
Savage stopped very early, finding a favorable spot for
hunting. Moreover heavy Rain fell about three o'clock
in the afternoon. An hour after camping the Savage
came back laden with a Bear cub and with the two hams
™Spigeliaf — C.S.S.
180 The Piankeshaw tribe of Indians, a branch of the Miami nation that
dwelt around Vincennes. — ED.
m G. auriculala, Michx.— C. S. S.
1793-1796] Andre Michauxs Travels 69
of another and much older one. We boiled the kettle
twice and had enough to satisfy us. We roasted what
remained.
The 27th the Savage killed two Stags. We halted
very early to dry the Skirts and to eat, for the Savage and
his wife ate five meals a day. Moreover, they regaled
themselves with the marrow of the bones which they ate
raw; for, being unable to carry away the meat, they con-
tented themselves with a piece of the animal's loins.
The 28th of August 1795. Just as I was eager to see
Game the ist and 2nd day, so was I afraid to see it then
owing to the waste of time. I was all the more anxious
to proceed that it rained every day. I had already been
obliged once to dry at a fire my baggage that had been
wet through especially four books of Botany and Mineral-
ogy I had with me, as I had been unwilling to expose them
to the hazards of the River and had sent by way of the
Mississipi two Trunks containing grey Paper, Powder,
Lead, Alum, Boxes for collecting Insects, and all the
articles required for making Collections of Plants, Animals,
Insects and Minerals.
Sunday 3oth of August arrived at the village of Kas-
kaskia132 situated two mile from the Mississipi river
133 The French villages in Illinois resulted from the plans of La Salle; the
earliest grew up about Fort St. Louis, on the Illinois River. In 1700, the
Kaskaskia tribe of Indians removed to the river bearing their name, the Jesuit
missionaries and traders followed, and the village at this place began. The
inhabitants were chiefly descendants of the coureurs des bois, intermixed with
Indian blood. The Jesuit plantation at Kaskaskia consisted of two hundred
and forty arpents of land, well-cultivated and stocked with cattle, containing
also a brewery. When the Jesuits were suppressed, the buyer, Beauvais,
raised eighty-six thousand weight of flour from a single harvest. The French
dominion came to an end in 1765 (see Croghan's Journals, vol. i of this series).
Kaskaskia was captured from the English in 1778 by George Rogers Clark,
and the American regime was instituted by John Todd, under appointment
from Virginia. See Mason, Chapters from Illinois History (Chicago, 1901),
pp. 250-279.— ED.
70 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
and half a mile from the Kaskaskia River. It is inhabited
by former Frenchmen under the American Government.
The number of families is about forty five. It is agree-
ably situated but the number of inhabitants had decreased ;
nothing is to be seen but houses in ruins and abandoned
because the French of the Illinois country, having always
been brought up in and accustomed to the Fur trade with
the savages, have become the laziest and most ignorant
of all men. They live and the majority of them are
clothed in the manner of the Savages. They wear no
breeches but pass between their thighs a piece of cloth
of about one third of an ell [in length] which is kept in
place before and behind above the hips by a belt.
The 3ist of August herborised.
Tuesday the first of September continued my herbor-
ising; also on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th of the same.
The 5th started for the village called Prairie du Rocher
about 15 miles distant from Kaskaskia.133 Passed by the
village of St Philippe abandoned by the French and in-
habited by three families of Americans.134 This village
is 9 Miles from Prairie du Rocher.
The 6th arrived at Kaskia [Cahokia]135 near the Missis-
sipi . . . Miles from Prairie du Rocher.
133 Prairie du Rocher was a small French village situated upon a grant made
to Boisbriant (about 1725) by the Mississippi Company, and by him transferred
to his nephew Langlois, who maintained seignioral rights therein until the
establishment of American government. — ED.
134 St. Philippe was founded upon Regnault's grant. Pittman (Present
State of European Settlements on the Mississippi, London, 1770), says that when
he visited it (1766) there were sixteen houses, a small church, and one inhabi-
tant, dubbed "captain of the militia," who had twenty slaves, many cattle, and
a mill. — ED.
135 Cahokia was probably the oldest settlement in the Illinois, although
Kaskaskia disputes its priority. A mission of the Se"minaire des Missions
Etrangeres was founded among the Tamaroa and Cahokia Indians about 1698,
and a French village sprang up around the place. In 1714 there was a large
1793-1796] Andre Michauxs Travels 71
The yth herborised and visited the neighborhood of
Kaskia.
The 8th started to return to Kaskaskia and arrived
there on the gth.
The loth continued herborising in the vicinity of Kas-
kaskia Village until the i3th of the same month.
Sunday the i3th of September crossed over with a sav-
age guide to the south bank of the Kaskaskia River and
continued to herborise there until the i8th of the same
month.
The 1 8th and igth Rained continually. Put my Col-
lections in order and gave my horse a rest.
Sunday the 2oth . . .
Kaskaskia 45 families; Prairie du Rocher from 22 to
24 families. St. Philippe 3 American families. Fort
de Chartres in ruins.136 Kaskias 120 families. Americans
at Corne de Cerf and at Belief ontaine137 35 families. St
Louis flourishing138 . . . Prairies and hills.
accession of renegade cowreurs des bois. See Wisconsin Historical Collections
(Madison, 1902), xvi, pp. 331, 332. After the English acquired the Illinois,
many inhabitants migrated from Cahokia to St. Louis. — ED.
138 Fort Chartres was the most considerable fortification built by the French
in the western part of America. The original fort was constructed in 1720 by
Boisbriant, commandant in Illinois for the Company of the Indies. In 1756,
the stronghold was rebuilt in stone, being described as an irregular quadrangle
with port-holes for cannon, houses, barracks, magazines, etc. For a contem-
porary description, see Pittman, Settlements on the Mississippi, pp. 45, 46.
After 1765, Fort Chartres was garrisoned by the English; but in 1772 the ero-
sion by the river caused a portion to collapse, and the fort was abandoned.
For its present condition, see Mason, Chapters from Illinois History, pp. 241-
249. — ED.
137 The earliest American settlements in Illinois were made by soldiers of
Clark's army. Bellefontaine, in the present Monroe County, was the centre
for American life. More American families were reported a few years previous
to this. Probably the Indian wars and the allurements of the Indian trade had
caused some dispersal. — ED.
138 St. Louis was founded by Pierre Laclede in April, 1764. He had secured
a license from the French governor of Louisiana to trade upon the upper Missis-
7 2 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
Friday 2nd of October started to go by land to the
place where the Ohio falls into the Mississipi. Owing
to the difficulty experienced in crossing the Kaskaskia
river we traveled only 12 Miles.
The 3rd and Sunday the 4th Rained and we crossed
several prairies. Traveled about 27 Miles.
The 5th passed more Prairies intersected by strips of
Forest. My guide killed an Elk called Cerf by the
Canadians and French of Illinois. This animal is much
larger (twice as large) than the dwarf Deer of the United
States of which there is an abundance also in the Illinois
country and which the French of these countries call
Chevreuil. Its antlers are twice the size of those of the
European Stags. Below each of its two eyes is a cavi-
ty which keeps closed but, by separating the two sides
like eyelids, one can insert a finger to the depth of an
inch. This cavity seems intended for the purpose of
secreting some kind of humor. In fact on opening the
cavity I found a substance of the form and consistency
of a hare's dropping but of the size of an acorn. This
animal has canine teeth in the upper and lower jaw like
those of horses, called fangs. The hunters say that this
animal is always very fat. In fact this one was exceed-
ingly so. Traveled about 32 Miles.
The 6th entered the forests and crossed several rivers.
Traveled . . . miles.
sippi and the Missouri. Upon arriving in the Illinois country, the previous
November, he chose the site for his new settlement, and spent the winter at
Cahokia making arrangements. Meanwhile the news of the transfer of Canada
and the Illinois to the British had arrived. Under the impression that France
had retained the left bank of the Mississippi, many Illinois settlers removed
thither with Laclede. St. Louis nourished under Spanish dominion, but was
known by its neighbors as "Pain Court" (Scant-bread) because its inhabitants
devoted more time to fur-trading than to agriculture. It was not until trans-
ferred to the United States (March, 1804) that the career of St. Louis as a city
began. — ED.
1 793-1 796] Andre Michaux's Travels 73
The yth of October 1795 my guide killed a Buffalo
which he considered to be about four years old. It
seemed to weigh over nine hundred pounds. As it was
not very fat my guide told me it was very common to see
animals at that age weighing over twelve hundred pounds.
It seemed larger than any Oxen in France and to surpass
them in length and size.
Thursday the 8th saw another Buffalo thirty toises from
our Road. We stopped to look at it. It walked very
slowly but after a couple of minutes it stopped and,
recognizing us, ran away with extraordinary speed. On
the same day arrived at Fort Cfceroquis otherwise called
Fort Massac by the Americans.189 125 Miles.
The Qth of October 1795 herborised on the bank of the
Mississipi: Platanus Liquidamber Bonducs, pekan Nut-
trees, hiccory Nut-trees, called by the French Noyers
durs; prickly Nuts (by the French Noyer amer) round
Nuts. White Oak, Quercus alba, Quercus rubra ramosis-
sima, Quercus cerroides (by the French chene frise" and by
the Americans overcup White Oak) Quercus prinus,
Quercus integrifolia1*0 or Quercus foliis junioribus omni-
bus et adultis semper integerrimis margine undulatis
apice setaceis. This species of oak abounds in the
Illinois Country. It loses its leaves later than the other
139 For definition of Toise, see post, note 163.
Fort Massac had been erected by the order of General Wayne in 1794, in
order to check the expedition which Michaux went to Kentucky to promote.
It was on the site of an old French post, which had been erected in 1757 by
Aubry, governor of Illinois. He first named it Fort Ascension, and proceeded
thence to reinforce Fort Duquesne at the forks of the Ohio. After the evacua-
tion of that fortress (1758), the Illinois troops dropped down to this place, and
renamed it Fort Massac, in honor of the Marquis de Massiac, minister of marine.
When the French surrendered the Illinois, the British neglected to fortify this
place, although recommended to do so by their engineers. Accordingly Clark
marched hither overland to his capture of Illinois. — ED.
140 Q. imbricaria, Michx.— C. S. S.
74 Early Western Travels [Vol.. 3
species of Oak. The French inhabitants call it Chene a
lattes. In Lower Carolina it is rather rare but keeps its
leaves until the month of February or March. It seems
to resemble the green Oak from which it differs in the
shape of its acorns.
Nyssa montana rather rare; Gleditsia triacanthos ;
Robinia pseudoacacia (by the French fevier). The Gledit-
sia tnacanthos is called fevier epineux and the Guilandina
dioica Gros fevier and the seeds Gourganes. Note. On
the Illinois river is a species or variety of Guilandina
dioica whose seeds are twice as big as those on the Banks
of the Mississipi, Cumberland etc. Liana Rajanioides;
Anonymos141 ligustroides; Vitisu2 monosperma, this species
is found along the Rivers and not in the interior of the
forest ; I saw it on the Kaskaskia River, on the Mississipi
in the vicinity of fort Massac, on the Tenasse river, but it
completely covers the banks of the Cumberland river
from its mouth to a distance of 45 Miles.
Sunday nth of October 1795 started with a Guide to
ascend the Cumberland (Shavanon) river148 in a Canoe.
The rain compelled us to return.
Tuesday the i3th hired two men at a dollar a day each
to ascend the Rivers of the Territory of the Cheroquis
Savages. Started from fort Cheroquis or Fort Massac.
The distance is six Miles to reach the mouth of the
Tenassee River called by the French of Illinois Chero-
141 Forestiera acuminata, Poir. (Adelia acuminate, Michx.). — C. S. S.
142 Vitis riparia, Michx., or more probably, in part, at least, V. palmata,
Vahl. (V. rubra, Michx. in herb), a species which is often monospermous,
and which was discovered by Michaux in this region and merged by him with
his V. riparia.— C. S. S.
148 The Cumberland River was usually known as the Shawnese River on
early maps. Doubtless this Indian tribe had dwelt thereon when first met by
white explorers. — ED.
1793-1796] Andre Michaux s Travels 75
quis River.144 This river is very great and very wide.
After ascending it about six miles we saw the tracks of a
Bear on the bank. We stopped and entered the wood
when we came upon a she Bear with cubs. The dog
pursued the Mother, the cubs climbed a tree; I killed one
and the guides killed the two others. We passed the
night at that place.
The 1 4th very heavy Fog; we made only 5 Miles.
Rain began to fall about noon.
The 1 6th paddled or rowed about ten Miles owing to a
heavy Wind that began by a storm the previous evening
and continued a part of the day. We camped opposite
an Island or Chain of Rocks running nearly across the
River. Nevertheless there is a channel on the south
Bank that is fairly deep and sufficient for the passage of
large boats.
Banks of the Cheroquis river (Tenassee): Platanus;
Juglans pacana, Hiccori, pignut; Liquidambar; Quercus
mbra, prinus; Anonymos carpinoides; Anonymos ligus-
troides;1*5 Betula austrolis grey-bark Birch,148 which is
found throughout America from Virginia to the Floridas;
it differs from the Betula papyrifera; Bignonia catalpa;
Ulmus; Fraxinus; Vitis rubra or monosperma; Gleditsia
triacanthos; Diospiros; Smilax pseudockina; Bignonia
crucigera, radicans; Rajania . . . Dioecia 8-dria;
Populus Caroliniana, by the French Creoles Liard, and
by the Americans Cotton tree. (Note: The Canada
Poplar is called by the Canadians Tremble and by the
English of Canada Quaking Aspen); Acer rubrum, sac-
144 So called because it took its rise in the Cherokee territory. See Weiser's
Journal, vol. i of this series, note 33. — ED.
145 Forestiera ligustrina, Poir. (Adelia ligustrina. Michx.). — C. S. S.
148 Betula nigra, L. (B. lanulosa, Michx.).— C. S. S.
j6 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
charinum, negundo: Anonymos ligustroides; Anonymos
ulmoides.1*7
(The 22nd of June 1795, according to the Gazette the
Agents of the French Republic were recognized by Presi-
dent Washington
Philip Joseph Letombe, Consul General
Theodore Charles Mozard, Consul at Boston
Jean Anthony Bern Rosier, Consul at New York
Le*on Delaunay, Pennsylvania
Louis Etienne Duhait, Maryland)148
The 1 5th October 1795 herborised.
The 1 6th descended the river and camped at the mouth
of the Shavanon River called Cumberland river by the
Americans eighteen Miles from fort Massac; killed a
Canada Goose called by the French Canadians and
Illinois French Outarde; killed two water-Hens an
American kingfisher, an American pelican.
The 1 7th ascended the River about ten Miles; there
were numbers of wild Turkeys on the banks ; the Rowers
and I killed five from the Canoe in passing, without land-
ing.
The 1 8th continued on our way toward the upper part
of the River.
The 1 9th descended the river.
Tuesday 2oth of October 1795 returned to Fort Chero-
quis or Fort Massac.
Trees and Plants in the neighborhood on the Banks of
the Ohio.
147 Planera aquatica, Gmel.— C. S. S.
148 The interpolation of these names in the journal at this point, would
appear to indicate that the news of the appointments consequent upon the
arrival of the new French minister, Adet (June i, 1795), had just reached
Michaux; also that his interest in political affairs was still active, and that other
motives may have led him to this country under feint of herborizing. — ED.
i793-J796] Andre Michaux s Travels 77
Platanus occidentalis, by the Americans Sycamore and
by the Illinois French cotonnier; Populus, by the Ameri-
cans Cotton tree and by the Illinois French, Liard;
Celtis occidentalis^ by the Americans Hackberry tree and
by the French Bois inconnu; Liquidambar styraciflua,
by the French of Louisiana Copalm and by the Amer-
icans .
A Frenchman who traded among the Cheroquis Savages
cured himself of the Itch by drinking for ten days a decoc-
tion of Chips of that tree which he called Copalm and
which is the true Liquidambar; Gleditsia triacanthos, fevier
(bean-plant) by the French and sweet locust by the Ameri-
cans.
Guilandina dioica.149
Sunday 25th of October 1795 Spiraea trifoliata is a
purgative used by the Savages and by the Illinois French.
They call it Papiconah. In the neighborhood of Fort
Cheroquis is found also the Geranium called herbe or
rather Racine k Becquet which is given for chronic Dis-
eases during several weeks; Veronica virginica called by
the French herbe a quatre feuilles (four-leaved grass) is
often added.
Sunday first of November I was obliged to defer my
departure, my Horse not having been found.
Friday the 6th my Horse was brought back to the Fort
and I at once made ready to start for the Illinois. Started
the same day and journeyed about 18 Miles.
The 7th the Rain began early in the morning and con-
tinued all day. Remained camped under a Rock where I
had stopped the previous day with my Guide.
Sunday the 8th traveled through woods and Hills.
The gth, the same.
149 A blank of five days in the Journal occurs here. — C. S. S.
78 'Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
The loth arrived toward evening at the Prairies.
The nth crossed the Prairies.
The 1 2th toward evening Re-entered the Woods once
more and slept 7 Miles from Kaskaskia river.
The 1 3th arrived before breakfast at Kaskaskia about
130 Miles from Fort Massac.
The 1 3th of November I rested.
Sunday the i4th went out to hunt Canada Geese.
The 1 5th put my Collections of seeds in order.
The 1 6th same occupation.
The i yth I went Hunting.
Thursday i8th started for Prairie du Rocher
The igth Duck Hunting.
The 2oth Goose Hunting.
Sunday 22nd paid visits.
The 23rd, 24th, 25th, 26th, 27th and 28th visited the
Mountains of Rock bordering on the inhabited Country;
Opossums, Raccoons, aquatic Birds etc.
Sunday 2pth of November went to the Village of St
Philippe called the Little Village.
The 3oth visited Fort de Chartres.
Tuesday the ist of December started for Kaskaskias
and remained there.
The 2nd and 3rd of the same Made arrangements with
Richard150 to go by water to Cumberland.
The 4th returned to Prairie du Rocher.
The 5th prepared to start. Stuffed a white-headed
wild Goose.
The 6th started once more for Kaskaskias.
The 7th confirmed once more in my opinion that the
Second Bark of Celtis occidentalis (called in the Illinois
150 A habitant named Pierre Richard is listed as a head of family at Kas-
kaskia in 1783, and again in 1790. — ED.
1793-1796] Andre Michaux s Travels 79
country Bois connu and toward New Orleans Bois inconnu)
is an excellent remedy for curing jaundice; a handful of
the roots or leaves of Smilax sarsaparilla is added to it;
it is used for about eight days as a decoction.
The 8th of December 1795. The French Creoles call
the species of Smilax found in the Illinois country, Squine.
Only the thorny species grows there; it loses its leaves in
the Autumn. The other species is herbaceous and
climbing.
The 9th of December. The root of Fagara as a decoc-
tion is a powerful remedy for curing disease of the Spleen.
I have no doubt that the root of Zanthoxilum clava-Her-
culi can be used for obstructions of the liver and Spleen.
The zoth: Bignonia Catalpa,151 by the French Creoles
Bois Shavanon; Cercis canadensis, Bois noir (black
wood) ; Liriodendron tulipifera, Bois jaune (yellow wood) ;
Nyssa, Olivier (olive). In making Wheels for vehicles
the workmen use the Wood of Padus Virginiana for the
felloes, Elm for the Naves and white oak for the Spokes.
The nth of December. Confirmed once more in my
opinion that the root of Veronica Virginiana, vulgarly
known as Her be a quatre feuilles (four-leaved grass),
used as a decoction for a month, is effective for the cure
of venereal Diseases. Four or five of the roots are
boiled. As this beverage is purgative the strength of
this Ptisan must be increased or reduced by putting more
or less according to the effect it has on one. It is suffi-
cient for the first days that the bowels be relaxed and
looser than usual; it is not unusual that the bowels be
moved 3 or 4 times the first day.
I was informed at Illinois that Mackey a Scotchman
151 This, doubtless, is C. speciosa, Warder, the only indigenous species in
this region. — C. S. S.
80 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
and Even a Welshman, started at the end of July 1795
from St Louis to ascend the Missouri in a 4 oared Barge.
They are aided by a Company whereof Charles Morgan,
a Creole from the Islands, is Manager.152
December the [i2th] 1795.
Sunday the i3th made my preparations for the journey
to Cumberland.
The 1 4th started for Cumberland; passed the Salt
spring on Spanish territory. Observed Tagetoides.
Learned the news of the peace between France and
Spain. Slept six miles from the Salt* spring. Observed
on the banks of the Mississipi river Equisetum which the
French Creoles call Prele. This Plant has here a cir-
cumference of nearly one inch and the stalk is 4 feet high.
The 1 5th passed Cape St Come153 at the foot of which
the Mississipi makes an angle. Fish is caught here in
abundance; the distance from Kaskaskia is eighteen
Miles. Camped at Girardeau154 17 leagues from Kas-
kaskia.
m The principal fur-trading company at St. Louis had been formed in
1794 by a union of all the traders at the suggestion of the governor, Trudeau;
at its head as manager was placed Jacques Clanmorgan (Ch. Morgan is a
misprint for Clanmorgan), who had for some time been in business in St. Louis,
but did not sustain an honorable reputation. He, however, succeeded in inter-
esting in his enterprises, a rich merchant of Canada, named Todd, and prob-
ably the Scotchman and Welshman were his factors. See Billon, Annals of
St. Louis (St. Louis, 1886), pp. 283 ff. — ED.
158 Cape St. Cosme has been corrupted into Cape Cinque Hommes, in
Perry County, Missouri. It was originally named for Jean Francois de St.
Cosme, a Canadian Seminary priest who made a voyage down the Mississippi
in 1700, and was a missionary to the Illinois and Natchez. A few years later,
he was assassinated on the lower Mississippi by a band of savages, upon whom
Bienville later avenged his death. The term "Cap St. Cosme" is found on a
map of 1758. — ED.
154 Cape Girardeau was settled in 1794, the first house having been built
by a Frenchman. The later settlement, however, was almost exclusively
American; by 1803 there was a population of twelve hundred. — ED.
1793-1796] Andre Michauxs Travels 81
The 1 6th continued for 6 hours with Hills and Rocks
on the shores of the river, then low land. We camped
at the place where the Belle Riviere [Ohio] falls into the
Mississipi. On the opposite bank was camped Gover-
nor Don Gayoso, Governor of Natchez and upper
Louisiana.155 He sent a Boat to find out who we were
and, learning that I was a passenger, he came to see me.
He told me the news of the Peace between France and
Spain. He offered me his services. The distance from
Cape Girardeau to the Mouth of the Belle Riviere is
eighteen leagues and in all 35 leagues from Illinois.
The i yth camped at a distance of about 7 leagues.
The 1 8th arrived near Fort Massac; seven leagues.
The i gth camped opposite the Mouth of the River
Cheroquis or Tenasse.
Sunday the 2oth passed by la Pacaniere; this is an ex-
tensive Swamp on the North West side bordered by
Pekan Nut-trees situate opposite or rather a little before
entering the Cumberland River.
The same day Sunday 2oth of December, entered the
River Shavanon or Cumberland River the mouth of
which is six long leagues from Fort Massac. Slept two
leagues above the Mouth.
The 2ist rowed about 8 leagues.
The 22nd rowed about 7 leagues, and slept at the great
Eddy which is considered to be at a distance of forty five
miles from the mouth.158
156 Don Manuel Gayoso de Lemos was educated in England and married
an American. During his governorship at Natchez he was employed by Caron-
delet in intrigues with the inhabitants of Kentucky; he had come north at this
time for a conference with Sebastian, and to communicate with Wilkinson.
In 1797 he was made governor-general of Louisiana, and died two years later,
after a dinner given at New Orleans in honor of Wilkinson. — ED.
158 The town of Eddyville, Lyon County, Kentucky, was founded at this
eddy in 1799. — ED.
8 2 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
The 23rd we camped above the Isle aux Saules (Willow
Island) ; rowed about 1 2 Miles or 4 leagues.
The 24th remained in camp. Rained all day. The
River which was very easy to navigate until today, rose
considerably and flooded the woods.
The 25th Rain continued to fall mixed with hail. Re-
mained in Camp.
The 26th Remained in camp on account of the rising
of the river whose current was too strong.
Sunday 27th of December 1795. rowed about 4 Miles
only owing to the difficulty of rowing against the current
of the river. Camped at the mouth of Little River.
The 28th crossed to the opposite bank. The current
was as rapid as on the previous days and compelled us to
camp. White frost.
The 29th it again Rained heavily. Remained in camp.
The 3oth the River having overflowed and flooded all
parts of the woods, we shifted camp and returned to the
Little river; we ascended it until we came to a Hill high
enough to relieve us from the fear of being flooded.
Rain.
The 3ist the weather became clear, the wind shifted
to the North but the river continued to overflow its
banks. Most of us went hunting wild Turkeys.
Friday first of January 1796. Wind from the north;
Frost; the River rose one inch during the night.
In the vicinity of Little river, the Country has Hills
scattered here and there. Soil clayey, very rich Mould,
Rock consisting of Silex very slightly ferruginous. Blue
Limestone.
Animals: Raccoons, dwarf Deer, Opossums, Buffaloes,
Bears, grey Squirrels, Beaver, Otter, Musk-rats (these
three species very rare).
1793-1796] Andre Michaux s Travels 83
Birds: Ravens, Owls of the large species, Cardinals,
blue Jays; green Parroquets with yellow heads of the
small species; Jays with red heads and throats.
Trees and Plants: Liriodendron; Liquidambar; yellow
chestnut Oak, red Oak; Annona; horn-bean.
The 2nd of January, still remained in camp at the same
spot. Weather cloudy. The River fell two inches only.
Sunday the 3rd Heavy wind. Nyassa montana is
called by the French Creoles Olivier Sauvage and by the
Kentucky Americans Black Gum tree and by the Penn-
sylvania Americans Tupelo. Having nothing to do I
made ink with gall nuts which I gathered on the Oaks
in the vicinity of the spot where we were camped. •• It was
made in less than five minutes and will serve me as a
sample. In the neighborhood of Little river Lirioden-
dron; Liquidambar; Carpinus ostrya; Ulmus fungosa;
Padus Virginiana minor; Laurus benzoin etc.
The 4th rowed about 4 or 5 Miles. Camped near
rather high Hills consisting of shifting soil and rolled
boulders. Carpinus ostrya; Ulmus fungosa; Padus
Virginiana minor; Philadelphus inodorus; Nyssa
montana, by the Americans Black gum; Acer rubrum;
Viscum parasite; Fagus Americana and Orobanche Vir-
giniana a parasite on the roots of the Fagus Americana;
Betula spuria157 called by the French Bouleau batard.
Tuesday 5th of January 1796 we rowed 7 Miles and
camped opposite Diev Island 12 Miles from Little River.
The 6th the snow that fell during the night had cooled
the weather. Steep limestone Rocks from the place
where we were camped continuing for about a Mile on
the east bank. Rowed about 8 Miles.
The 7th The River fell 19 inches during the night;
167 B. nigra, L.— C. S. S.
84 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
as the frost had lowered the water this led us to hope
that it would be easier to row against the current of this
river which is naturally hemmed in between Hills. Rowed
about 8 Miles.
The 8th the river fell 19 inches during the night.
Passed by the Island of the boundary line between Cum-
berland and Kentuckey.
Plants on the Banks: Platanus occidentalis; Betula
australis or spuria; Acer rubrum; Ulmus Americana;
Fraxinus; Salix on the low Islands; Anonymos ligustroides.
Rowed about 10 Miles.
The pth the river fell nearly five feet during the night.
We rowed about ten Miles.
Sunday loth of January the River fell 4 feet during the
night. Continual Rain and Snow. Passed Yellow Creek
1 6 Miles before reaching Clark's ville. Passed Blowming
grove (?) 13 Miles before reaching Clark's ville. Rocks
and Hills. Passed Dixon Island (?) 10 Miles before
reaching Clark's ville and at present the most remote
Settlement of Cumberland territory. This Settlement
consists of fifteen families who established themselves
there three months ago. The chief place of this settle-
ment is called Blount's borough or Blount's ville.
The nth Rained all the previous night and a portion of
the day. Passed by a chain of Hills and by a rock called
Red painted rock on the right side of the River that is to
say on the north bank of the river 2 Miles from Clark's
ville. Afterwards passed by the red river whose mouth
is likewise on the north side and a quarter of a mile from
Clark's ville. Finally arrived at Clark's ville.158
158 Clarksville was one of the oldest settlements of Cumberland, having
first been occupied (1780) by the Renfroe and Turpin families. As an ad-
vanced outpost it was attacked many times by Indians, the latest onslaught
having occurred in 1794. The other settlements which Michaux mentions
1793-1796] Andre Michauxs Travels 85
The 1 2th of January 1796, remained at Clark's ville
on account of the river rising.
The 1 3th Doctor Brown of Carolina who had come to
found this new town Blount's borough 10 Miles above
Clark's ville, was at the latter place.159
The 1 5th bought a horse at the price of one hundred
Dollars.
The 1 6th departed; my horse ran away and I caught
him 6 Miles from Clark's ville at the Mill, 10 Miles.
Sunday the i7th dined 10 Miles from Nashville at
Ebneston's a quarter of a Mile from the Mill at the house
of an old Pennsylvanian, an educated man well informed
as regards foreign news.160 Slept at Crokes 18 Miles from
Ebneston. The Widow Martin lives near there and her
house is better for travelers.
The 1 8th passed the Ridges, 15 Miles, without seeing
any houses as far as White Creek. Old Stumps181 lives 5
miles from White Creek.
The i Qth started from Stump's and arrived at Nash-
ville 5 Miles.
Total from Clark's ville to Nashville 54 Miles by land
and 70 Miles by water.
were, as he says, of quite recent origin — incident upon the close of the Indian
war (1795), and the inrush of settlers over the new wagon road made this same
year to the Cumberland. — ED.
169 The entry for the i4th is omitted in the original publication. — ED.
160 Capt. John Edmeston was a well-known Indian fighter and leader of the
militia. An expedition against the Chickasaws, organized by him in 1792,
was forbidden by Robertson, because of negotiations pending with this warlike
tribe.— ED.
181 "Old man" Frederick Stumps was a German, who early made improve-
ments on White Creek, north of Eaton's Station. His flight of three miles to
the latter station, with Indian pursuers close at his heels, was one of the tradi-
tions of the settlement. — ED.
86 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
From St Louis to Kaskaskias ... 94
From Kaskaskias to the place where the Ohio
falls into the Mississipi . . . 95 Miles
From there to fort Massac ... 45 Miles
From there to the mouth of the Cumberland
river 18 Miles
From there to Clark's ville on the red river 120 Miles
From there to Nashville 60 Miles
Total 432 Miles 432
(Prices at Nashville): Dinner 2 shillings, Breakfast
or supper i shilling 4 pence; ^ Quart of Whiskey i
shilling. Hay and maize for Horse 2 shillings. The
whole is six Shillings for one Dollar.)
The 2oth, 2ist, and 22nd remained at Nashville.
The 23rd started from Nashville and journeyed 29^
Miles; lodged with Major Sharp.
Sunday the 24th of January 1796 arrived at a Creek at a
distance of 29 Miles near which one Chapman keeps
lodgings at 3^ Miles; MacFaddin on Big Brown
[Barren] keeps a ferry and lodgings. Total 32^
Miles.
The 25th Rain and Snow.
The 26th Started for Green river. The ground was
covered with snow, the Roads rough and my horse fell
lame. I was obliged to walk. I made 12 miles. I was
unable to light a fire because the trees and wood were all
frosted. I spent the night nearly frozen. About 2
o'clock the Moon rose and I resolved to return to Mac-
Faddin's where I arrived at 10 o'clock in the morning.
The 27th being overcome by cold and weariness, having
traveled afoot, having eaten nothing since the morning
i793-I796l Andre Michaux s Travels 87
of the previous day and not having slept during the night,
the toes of my right foot became inflamed. I bathed my
feet in cold water several times during the following
night and no sores resulted therefrom but for several days
the toes were numb and as if deprived of sensation.
The 28th I was compelled to go a distance of seven
Miles to get my horse shod and I went to sleep at Mr.
Maddison's whose plantation was close by.
The 2gth of January 1796 I started very early in the
morning as I had 38 Miles to travel without coming to an
inn or other habitation. I had been received with all the
civility that can be expected from a man who has had a
higher education than the other inhabitants of the
country. This Mr Maddisson was a Virginian and a
relative of the celebrated Madisson, Member of Congress.
This gentleman was a true Republican in his principles
and I spent a very interesting and very pleasant evening
at his house.182 His wife surpassed him in offering me
every service that hospitality could suggest, which is
seldom met with in America except in the case of persons
better educated than the common people. That Lady
suggested that I should wear heavy woollen socks over
my shoes. She herself cut me out a pair and I was so
surprised at the comfort I derived from them on the fol-
lowing days that I resolved never to travel in the season
of snow and frost without taking the precaution to have
182 This was George Madison, brother of Bishop Madison of Virginia.
Born about 1763, he served in the Revolution while yet a boy, and enlisting in
the regular army was wounded at St. Clair's defeat (1791), and again the fol-
lowing year. Shortly after this visit of Michaux, Madison was appointed
state auditor, and removed to Frankfort, where he held the office for twenty
ensuing years. In 1812 he served as major in the army, was captured at Raisin
River, and sent as prisoner to Quebec. Upon his exchange, he was received
in Kentucky with great rejoicing, and elected governor (1816), but died during
the first year of his term. — ED.
8 8 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
a pair in my Porte Monteau. In the evening I came to a
place three Miles from Green river and slept at the house
of one Walter; I slept on the floor and my horse in the
open air; but I was accustomed to this.
The 3oth I crossed the Green river ferry in the morning.
The cold was excessive and such as had not been felt for
Many years. At 9 Miles I passed by Bacon Creek and the
Cabin of a man but recently settled there and who was
unprovided with everything, even Maize, needed for
the sustenance of his household. At 22 Miles from
Green River is the House of one Ragon and I hurried on
to reach some better habitations before night. 26 Miles
from Green River I perceived a House 200 toises163 from
the Road situate on the bank of a Creek. The inhabi-
tant was a German who had been settled there only a
year; he had a good stable, was well supplied with fodder
of wheat, straw, and Maize leaves for my horse, and I ate
Wheat bread for the first time since I had left Illinois.
My supper consisted of bread and milk and I found my-
self very well treated. The name of my host was George
Cloes; a German by Birth; his house is situated on the
South fork of Nolin river.
Sunday the 3ist passed by Huggins mill164 on Nolin
river (good lodgings) ; at a quarter of a Mile the road on
the right hand leads to Beardston. At 2^ Miles the
new cut road is straight. At 9 Miles passed by Rolling
fork and 4 Miles further slept at Mr. Scoth's on Beech
fork.
Monday ist of February 1796 passed by Dr Smith's
163 A toise is a French linear measure equivalent to 6.395 English feet. — ED.
184 This mill was at the site of the present town of Hodgenville, seat of Lame
County. Abraham Lincoln was born about two miles south of this place, when
Larue was still part of Hardin County — ED.
1793-1796] Andre Michaux's Travels 89
house 8 Miles from Beech fork and by Mackinsy 9 Miles
from Beech fork. From Mac Kinsy to Long Lake 6
Miles. From Longlake to Sheperdston on Salt river 4
miles.165 From Shepperdston to Standeford 9 Miles
(good inn). From Standeford to Prince Old station 8
Miles. From Prince to Louisville 6 Miles.
The 2nd started from Prince's and arrived at Louis-
ville. 3^2 Miles before arriving measured a Lirioden-
dron tulipijera on the left hand road whose size was
twenty two feet in circumference, making more than seven
feet in diameter. (Correspondent of Monsieur La Cas-
sagne and St. James Bauvais at New Orleans Monsieur
Serpe Trader at New Orleans.168 Correspondent of
Monsieur La Cassagne at Philadelphia Geguir and
Holmes,. Merchants, Philadelphia. Prices: Dinner i
shilling 6 pence; Supper and Breakfast i shilling 6 pence;
Lodging 9 shillings; }4, quart of Brandy 2 shillings 3
pence; Horse per day on hay and maize 3 shillings 9
pence.)
The 3rd, 4th and 5th remained at Louisville, being
occupied in gathering together the Collections I had left
with one La Cassagne.
The 6th I saw General Clarke and he informed me of
the visit of Colonel Fulton who had come from France a
few months previously.187
165 Shepherdsville, the seat of Bullitt County, was incorporated as a town in
1793. Its site was at the falls of Salt River, and it was an important station in
early Kentucky history. — ED.
184 Gayoso mentions one Sarpy, a rich merchant of New Orleans, as con-
cerned in the plot against Louisiana (1793). Another merchant, Beauvais, was
similarly involved. Consult American Historical Association Report, 1896,
p. 1049. — ED.
167 Samuel Fulton, a native of North Carolina, who had lived for some time
among the Creek Indians, was agent for Clark in settling his accounts with the
French government. He arrived from France late in 1795, and Michaux's
90 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
Sunday the yth breakfasted with General Clarke's
Father whose house is 4 miles from Louisville. I wanted
to obtain more ample information regarding Lieutenant-
Colonel Foulton. I was told that he was to proceed to
Philadelphia immediately after having gone to Georgia.
That he was to embark for France and hoped to return
to America at the end of this summer 1796. The same
day, I started to return to Nashville. Slept at Stande-
ford. 14 Miles from Louisville. (Supper i shilling,
Bed 6 pence. Hay for the horse for the night i shilling.
Maize 8 quarts i shilling 4 pence.)
Monday 8th of February 1796. (Breakfast i shilling)
Passed by Sheperdston 9 Miles from Standeford. Maize
for horse 3 quarts, 9 Pence, Virginia money, as in all
parts of Kentuckey and Cumberland.) Passed by Long
lake, where Salt is made as well as at Sheperdston and
slept at Mackinsy's 7 Miles from Longlake.
In swampy places in the vicinity of Longlake: Quercus
alba; Quercus cerroides; Fraxinus . . . ; Nyssa; Lau-
rus benjoin; Sassafras; Mitchella repens; Fagus sylvatica
americana.
On the hills: Pinus168 foliis geminis conis oblongis
minoribus squamis aculeis retrocurvis. Saw planks of this
tree at the house of an inhabitant; the wood seemed to me
almost as heavy as that of the three leaved Pine of Caro-
lina. Tar is also made of it in this part of Kentucky.
The 9th I started very early in the morning from
Mackinsy's. I had been very well received there that is
to say he gave me a supper of boiled Pork; the same for
testimony was relied upon to secure the affidavits necessary to obtain recom-
pense from the French republic. See American State Papers, Indian Affairs,
i, p. 463. Consult, also, American Historical Association Report, 1896,
pp. 1047-1065. — ED.
188 Probably Pinus inops, Ait.— C. S. S.
1793-1796] Andre Michaux's Travels 91
breakfast. My horse fared very well on Maize fodder
and in a Stable that was not muddy like all those in
America when one lodges with Americans or with Irish.
I paid 3 shillings, being i shilling 6 pence for my horse
and as much for myself. I had paid 5 shillings for my
lodging the previous night and had not been so well satis-
fied. As the daughter of this house was the smartest
of any I had ever seen in America I gave her a quarter
of a Dollar and the old man offered me a stuffed Tongue
but I thanked him, not being fond of salt meat.
It began to rain an hour after I started but I was for-
tunate enough to pass Beechford and Rollingford. 13
Miles from Mackinsy's.
I was obliged to stop at the house of an inhabitant a
Mile and a half from the crossing and the Rain com-
pelled me to pass the night there.
In the neighborhood there is Liriodendron with yellow
wood and in some parts Liriodendron with white wood.
The inhabitants prefer the yellow variety.
Wednesday loth of February 1796, I had supped the
previous evening on Tea made from the shrub called
Spice-wood. A handful of young twigs or branches is
set to boil and after it has boiled at least a quarter of an
hour sugar is added and it is drunk like real Tea. There
was no Milk at the time and I was told that Milk makes
it much more agreeable to the taste. This beverage
restores strength and it had that effect for I was very
tired when I arrived. This shrub is the Laurus Benjoin
Linn. The Illinois French call it Poivrier and the hunt-
ers season their meat with some pieces of its wood.
In the vicinity grows a plant169 of the Orchis family
whose leaf remains all winter. There are seldom two;
1M Aplectrum hyemale, Nutt.— C. S. S.
9 2 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
the form is oval, furrowed, entire; the root bears two or
three very viscous bulbs. It is used in the Country to
mend broken crockery. It is called Adam and Eve. This
plant is more common in the rich low lands of the terri-
tory West of the Allegany Mountains. I have also seen
it in Lower Carolina but it is very rare there. It is not
rare in Illinois.
Rain continued to fall all day and I was obliged to
spend the night in a house near Nolin Creek because the
river had overflowed its banks.
The nth arrived at Huggins's 12 Miles from Rollin-
ford.
The 1 2th passed through a Country covered with grass
and Oaks which no longer exist as forests, having been
burned every year. These lands are called Barren lands
although not really sterile. The grasses predominate:
Salix pumila, Quercus nigra and Quercus alba called
Mountain White Oak. Gnaphalium dioicum also grows
there in abundance. It is called by the Americans White
Plantain.
The same day i2th of February 1796 passed by Bacon
Creek, a new settlement 19 Miles from Huggins Mill and
arrived at Green river 9 Miles from Bacon Creek. Slept
3 Miles further on at the house of one Walter.
The 1 3th of February traveled 37 Miles without seeing
a House through the lands called Barren lands. The
Salix pumila that grows there in abundance is the same
as that which is very common in the Illinois prairies as
one leaves Vincennes Post to go to Kaskaskia. Slept
beyond the Big Barren river
Sunday the i4th traveled about 30 Miles. In all the
Houses the children were suffering from Hooping Cough.
This disease probably results from a simple Cold but the
1793-1796] Andre Michaux s Travels 93
reprehensible system of living continually on salt and
smoked meat fried in the pan produces those acrid
humors that render expectoration more difficult.
The 1 5th traveled 27 Miles and arrived at Nashville.
Supper, bed and breakfast 2 shillings.
The 1 6th started to go and visit Colonel Hays170 a
wealthy inhabitant to whom I had been recommended
the previous year by Governor Blount, Governor of the
Country known under the name of Western territories,
South west of the Ohio. This Country, which is esti-
mated to have 60 Thousand inhabitants, in consequence
of the considerable annual immigration and of the rapid
increase of population, has just been erected into a State
governed by its own representatives under the new name
of the State of Tennesee from the name of a very large
river that runs through the whole Houlston Country, the
Cumberland Country, the Country of the Cheroquis
Indians and other adjacent countries. This large river
falls into the Ohio 9 Miles above fort Massac. It was
known by the French, who were the first to discover the
Countries in the interior of North America, under the
name of Cheroquis River and it is so designated on the
French Maps. I met at Colonel Hays's several inhabi-
tants of the neighborhood who came to confer upon cur-
rent matters in connection with the election of new civil
and military Officers.
The 1 7th and i8th of February 1796 remained at
Colonel Hays' on account of bad weather.
The 1 9th concluded the bargain for the purchase of a
170 Col. Robert Hays, a brother-in-law of Andrew Jackson, was born in
North Carolina, and served in the Revolution, being captured at Charleston.
He removed to Cumberland in 1784, was first United States marshal of Ten-
nessee, muster-master-general for Jackson in 1813, and died at his home near
Nashville in 1819. — ED.
94 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
Horse to convey the baggage, Collections of Plants,
Birds and other Things I had brought from Illinois and
recently from Kentuckey. Returned the same day to
sleep at Nashville.
The 2oth spent the entire day in getting my collections
together and in packing them. Saw some French voy-
ageurs who spend all their lives in the Trade with the
Savages and asked the Terms on which I could obtain a
Guide to go up the Missouri river. One of them named
. . . told me he would willingly engage for a year for
the sum of 500 dollars in furs that is to say 1000 dollars in
money; another asked me 2000 dollars in money.
Sunday the 2ist prepared for my journey.
The 22nd had my two horses shod.
The 23rd started and after making two Miles was
obliged to return on account of ...
The 25th started to return to Carolina and slept 10
Miles away at the house of Colonel Mansko, a declared
enemy of the French because, he said, they have killed
then* King. Although I had not dined I would not
accept his supper believing that a Republican should not
be under obligations to a fanatical partisan of Royalty.
I was greatly mortified that the night and the rain should
compel me to remain in his House. But I slept on my
Deer skin and paid for the Maize he supplied me with
to cross the Wilderness.
The 26th
Sunday 28th of February 1796 stopped ten miles from
the river on account of the Rain and because the Creeks
had overflowed then: banks.
The 29th in the evening crossed the Creeks and slept
in the Wood near the road at a place where Reeds or
Canes were growing in abundance. This species of
1793-1796] Andre Michaux's Travels 95
grass which grows abundantly in many places which have
not been settled, is destroyed when completely eaten
by Cattle; Swine also destroy it by rooting in the earth
and breaking the roots. The stalk is sometimes as thick
as a goose quill, but in the rich lands bordering on the
rivers and between the mountains, some stalks are as
much as 2 and even three inches in diameter; the height
is sometimes from 25 to 30 feet. This grass is ramose
but it seldom bears fruit in the territory of Kentuckey,
in that of Tenesee or in that of the Carolinas. This
grass begins in the southern and maritime portion of Vir-
ginia. Further South as in the Carolinas, in the Floridas
and in Lower Louisiana, this grass is found in abun-
dance.171
Snow fell throughout the night and on the following
morning my two Horses that had been tied had their legs
swelled in consequence of the cold and of the continually
muddy roads over which I had traveled the previous day.
The ist of March 1796 arrived at Fort Blount situated
on the Cumberland River.172 Snow continued to fall dur-
ing a part of the day.
The 2nd remained over in order to pull young Shoots
of a new Sophora173 I had remarked in the vicinity of
Fleen's [Flinns] creek about 12 Miles from the Fort.
171 Arundinaria macrosperma, Michx. — C. S. S.
172 Fort Blount was not a pioneer stronghold, but one erected by the govern-
ment shortly before Michaux's visit, for protection of the settlers against the
Cherokees. It was on the north bank of Cumberland River, in the south-
western part of Jackson County, about midway between the Eastern and West-
ern Tennessee settlements. — ED.
173 Cladrastis tinctoria Raf., discovered here by Michaux, although not in-
cluded in his Flora. A letter written by Michaux to Governor Blount suggest-
ing the value of the wood of this tree as a dye wood, was, according to the younger
Michaux, published in the Knoxville Gazette, on the fifteenth of March, 1769.
[See his journal, post.]— C. S. S.
96 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
Snow covered the ground and I was unable to get any
young Shoots but Captain Williams, the young [officer]
stationed in the Fort cut down some trees and I found
some good seeds.
I also pulled up some roots of those trees to replant
them in my garden in Carolina.
The same day I had occasion to write to Governor
Blount.
The 3rd of March continued my journey; crossed
Fleen's Creek several times. Saw again the small bul-
bous umbelliferous plant I had remarked some days
previously. Toward evening the road was less muddy.
The 4th arrived at the Mountains called Cumberland
mountains.
The 5th passed several Creeks and Rivers on which is
an abundance of a climbing Fern of the genus . . ,174
The land through which these rivers flow is less fertile
than the territory of Nashville or Cumberland settlement
and two-leaved Pines are found there in abundance.
Sunday 6th of March 1 796 arrived at West Point on the
Clinch River.
The 7th slept at a distance of 15 Miles near the junction
of the Houlston river with that called Tenesee.
The 8th arrived at Knoxville.
The 9th Dined with Governor William Blount.
The loth took my lodgings in the house of Captain
Loune" near the Cumberland river.175
The nth herborised on the opposite bank bordered by
steep rocks covered with Saxifrage, bulbous umbellifera
etc.
174 Lygodium palmatum Swz. — C. S. S.
176 The Looneys were a prominent family in the early history of East Ten-
nessee. Captain David Looney was militia officer during the Revolution and
the Indian wars. — ED.
1793-1796] Andre Michaux s Travels 97
The 1 2th continued to herborise.
Sunday the i3th, Visited Captain Richard, Command-
ant of the garrison.
The 1 4th herborised; saw in bloom, Anemone hepatica;
Claytonia Virginica; Sanguinaria.
Saw a new genus of Plant designated by Linnaeus
Podophyllum diphyllum and discovered some years ago
in Virginia while passing by Fort Chissel. This Plant is
less rare in the fertile lands of Kentuckey and Cumber-
land. It is found in the neighborhood of Knoxville.
Dr Barton176 called it Jeffersonia in a description he gave
of this Plant after seeing the flower of the Shoots I had
brought back to Philadelphia in the hands of the Botanist
Bartram.177 The time when the plant flowers in the
neighborhood of Knoxville is about the zoth of March.
The 1 5th received the Letter from Governor Blount in
answer to that I had written him respecting the discovery
of a new Sophora in the neighborhood of fort Blount.
Started the same day and slept at a distance of 7 Miles.
Paid 2 shillings 3 pence for Supper and for Maize and
fodder for the Horses. Bundle of fodder 2 pence.
The 1 6th of March 1796 slept a mile from Iron Works
at the house of Mr Rice, Lawyer, 30 Miles from Knoxville.
178 Dr. Benjamin S. Barton was one of the best known scientists and natu-
ralists of his day, as well as a skilful physician. Born in Lancaster, Pennsyl-
vania, he was educated in Europe and took up practice in Philadelphia. In
1789, he was made professor of botany and natural history in the University of
Pennsylvania; he was vice-president of the American Philosophical Society, and
member of other learned organizations. He was designated to edit the scien-
tific data of Lewis and Clark's expedition, but died before accomplishing this
(1815).— ED.
177 William Bartram, son and co-worker of John Bartram, one of America's
first naturalists, was born in Pennsylvania in 1739. He devoted his life to the
study of botany, travelling extensively for the discovery of plants. His head-
quarters were at the botanical gardens near Philadelphia. — ED.
98 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
Observed in bloom: Ulmus viscosa, Acer rubrum $ flower
on one individual and ? flower on another tree.
The i yth slept near Bull's gap 30 Miles from Iron
Works.
The 1 8th passed by Lick creek and by Green court
house 1 8 Miles from Bull's gap.
The i Qth passed by Johnsborough 25 Miles from
Green [ville]. Several merchants are established at
Johnsborough who obtain their goods from Philadelphia
by land.
Sunday the 2oth started from Johnsborough. Saw in
passing Mr Overton of Kentuckey,178 Major Carter of
Wataga179 at whose house I had lodged several years
previously with my son, and Colonel Avery.
Sunday 2oth of March 1796 saw in bloom Corylus
americana, ? flower having the Styles or Stigmas of a
purpurine color. Ulmus viscosa geminis aureis floribus
4-$-6-andris, stigmatibus purpureis.
Acer rubrum $ flower on one individual and ? flower
on another. Slept at Colonel Tip ton's 10 Miles from
Johnsborough.
The 2ist remarked that the Mountains were covered
in several places with Sanguinaria, Claytonia and Ery-
178 John Overton was one of the best-known jurists of Tennessee. Born in
Virginia, he early emigrated to Kentucky, whence he removed to Nashville,
about the time Jackson began his career. He became Jackson's partner and
warm friend. From 1804-10 he was judge of the superior court, and of great
service in adjusting land titles; the next five years (1811-16) Judge Overton
served on the supreme bench of the state. He was one of the early proprietors
of Memphis; and died near Nashville in 1833. — ED.
179 John Carter was the foremost man of the early Watauga settlement.
Coming from North Carolina, he had the prestige of family and a superior
education, and was chosen head of the new community, serving efficiently in
many capacities. He was concerned in the State of Franklin movement, and
was frequently called out at the head of the militia, on Indian expeditions.
Carter County was named for him, and he had therein a large estate. — ED.
1793-1796] Andre Michaux's Travels 99
thronium with spotted leaves. These Plants were in
bloom. Magnolia acuminata et auriculata; Rhododen-
dron; Kalmia; Pinus abies canadensis, Pinus strobus;
Azalea etc. etc. grow in abundance at the foot of those
Mountains. Arrived at Lime Stone cove and slept at
Charles Collier's 18 Miles from Colonel Tipton's.
The 22nd crossed Iron Mountain and arrived at night
at David Becker's, 23 Miles without seeing a house.
The 23rd started from Becker's on Cane Creek to
Rider's 6 Miles; from Rider's to Widow Nigh's 7 Miles;
from Nigh's to Samuel Ramsey's 2 Miles; from Ramsey's
to David Cox's on Paper Creek 4 Miles and from Cox's
to Young's i Mile; from Sam Ramsey's to Davinport's
8 Miles.180 Total 23 Miles. Slept at Davinport's.
Remarked the Salix capreoides in flower on the banks of
the streams.
The 24th visited the high Mountains opposite Davin-
port's house; pulled up several hundred Shoots: Azalea
lutea julva; Anonymos azaleoides. Rhododendron minus
etc.
The 25th of March 1796. Saw in flower the Corylus
cornuta,1*1 amentis 5 geminis quandoque solitariis squamis
ciliatis; antheris apice ciliates, stylis coccineis.
This species flowers about 15 days later than the species
of Corylus americana found in all the Climates of North
180 Michaux returned across the mountains by a different route from the
one by which he went out. The northern or upper road over Yellow Moun-
tain appears to have been the more frequented; the lower road, over the Iron
Mountain range and down the Nolichucky, the more direct. See the younger
Michaux's account {post) of the difficulties of this route, when he passed over
it six years later. Limestone Cove was probably at the mouth of Limestone
Creek, a tributary of the Nolichucky on the western or Tennessee side of the
mountain. Cane and Paper Creeks are small tributaries of the Nolichucky,
on the eastern or North Carolina grade of the mountains. — ED.
181 C. rostrata, Ait.— C. S. S.
i oo 'Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
America even in lower Carolina in the neighborhood of
Charleston. The Corylus cornuta is found only on the
highest mountains and in Canada. Corylus americana
amentis £ solitariis squamis externe tomentosis margine
nuda; ftoris ? styhs coccineis.
The 26th herborised and pulled Shoots of shrubs and
fresh Shoots to transport them to the garden of the Repub-
lic in Carolina.
Sunday 2yth of March . . .
The 28th prepared and packed my Collection of fresh
Mountain Plants.
The 29th started from Davinport's and slept at the
house of ... Young. Violet with dentate reniform
leaves, villous petiole and yellow flower in full bloom on
the banks of streams and very cool places.
The 3oth continued my journey and by mistake took a
road to the right leading to Wilkes [County]. Another
Viole lutea scopus foliosus foliis hastatis in flower in cool
places and also less damp places. This one is a little
more tardy than the previous one.182
The 3ist arrived at Colonel Avery's and slept at Mor-
ganton or Burke Court house.
Friday ist of April 1796, started from Morganton.
Slept at Robertson's, formerly Henry Waggner's, 30
Miles from Morganton.
The 2nd of April Epigea repens in full bloom as on
previous days; on several individuals all the female
flowers were without rudiments of Stamens while on
other individuals all the flowers were hermaphrodites.
Arrived at noon at the house of Christian Reinhart near
Lincoln. Remained all day to pull shoots of the Spiraea
tomentosa that grow in swampy spots.
1(0 V, hastata, Michx.— C. S. S.
1793-1796] Andre Michaux's Travels 101
Sunday 3rd of April arrived at Bennet Smith's 12 Miles
from Lincoln; remained all day to pull shoots of a new
Magnolia183 with very large leaves, auriculate, oblong,
glaucous, silky, especially the young leaves; the buds very
silky; Flowers white Petals with a base of a purple color.
Stamens yellow etc. Along the Creek on the bank of
which this Magnolia grows I also saw the Kalmia latijolia,
Viola lutea, joliis hastatis; Ulmus viscosa then in process
of fructification; Halesia; Stewartia pentagyna.
The 4th started and crossed Tuck-a-segee ford on the
Catawba184 river 10 Miles from Bennet Smith's. Took
the road to the left instead of passing by Charlotte and
slept ii Miles from Catawba river.185
The 5th of April 1796 at a distance of 12 Miles took
once more the road leading from Cambden to Charlotte.188
Took Shoots of Calamus aromaticus that grows in
damp places in the neighborhood of Charlotte and of
Lincoln. Rhus pumila. Slept near Waxsaw Creek in
South Carolina about 35 Miles from Tuck-a-Segee ford.
The 6th at the house of Colonel Crawford near Waxsaw
Creek : anonymous Plant with leaves quaternate, per foliate,
glabrous, entire. This same Plant grows in the Settle-
183 M . macrophytta, Michx.— C. S. S.
m Tuckasegee Ford is between the present Gaston County and Mechlen-
burg, about ten miles west of Charlotte. — ED.
188 Note: before passing the ford, I dined with . . . Alexander, a very
respectable man from whom I have received many courtesies. — MICHAUX.
It is impossible to determine from this allusion, which of the numerous
Alexander family Michaux visited. The Alexanders of Mechlenburg were
noted as patriotic, God-fearing, Scotch-Irish Presbyterians, who had a large
share in the Revolutionary War in their country. Abraham presided at the
Mechlenburg Convention (1775), of which Adam and John McKnitt Alexander
were both members. — ED.
188 When one does not wish to pass by Charlotte in going to Lincoln, he must
inquire twelve or fifteen miles before reaching these, for the route to the left
which passes by Tuckasegee Ford. — MICHAUX.
IO2 Early Western Travels [Vol.3
ments of Cumberland and in Kentuckey. Frasera
joetida.187
Passed by Hanging Rock; the distance from Waxsaw
to Hanging Rock is 22 Miles. To go to Morganton or
Burke Court house one should not pass by Charlotte,
but take the Road to the left 3 j4 Miles from Hanging
Rock.
About 20 Toises after leaving the fork of the two roads
(one of which leads to Charlotte) one sees the Anony-
mous™* shrub with a red root which has the appearance of
the Calycanthus. This shrub is the one I saw in the
vicinity of Morganton. Slept near Hanging Rock.
Thursday yth of April 1796 arrived at Cambden; five
or six Miles before arriving there pulled Shoots of a new
Kalmia seen some years previously. The distance from
Hanging Rock to Cambden is 26 Miles.
Friday 8th of April started from Cambden, passed by
State's borough 22 Miles from Cambden and slept at
Manchester 30 Miles from Cambden.
The gth my Horses strayed away during the night,
having broken the Fence within which they were placed.
In the streams: Callitriche americana; fructificatio
simplex, axillaris sessilis, Calyx 2-phyllus, stamen uni-
cum; filamentum longum, latere geminis germen duplex?
styli duo longitudine stamfnis, stigmata acuta.
Silene . . . calyx f-fidus cylindricus, corolla Petala
5 (or 5- partita usque ad basim) unguibus angustis, laciniis
planis apice obtusis; Stamina 10 basi corolla inserta;
187 It has been suggested that this may refer to F. Caroliniana, Walt. (F.
Walteri, Michx.).— C. S. S.
188 It is not at all clear what shrub Michaux refers to in this entry. Mr.
Canby, to whom several of the doubtful points in the Journal have been referred,
and whose knowledge of the plants of the Allegheny region is now unrivaled,
suggests that Michaux may have found Darbya. There is nothing in his
herbarium to indicate that he ever saw that plant, which was found, however,
by M. A. Curtis not far fro m Morganton. — C. S. S.
i793-I796] Andre Michaux's Travels 103
Germen oblongum. Styli ires; stigmata acuta; Capsula
unilocularis, semina plura numerosa, flores rosei.1*9
Started in the afternoon and slept at 15 Miles having
crossed 10 Miles of sand called Santee High Hills in the
space of which observed Phlox; Silene . . . ; Dian-
thus ... in flower; Lupinus perennis et pilosus
in flower.
Sunday loth of April 1796 arrived at the Santee River
at the place called Manigault ferry; before arriving there
observed Verbena (aubletia?) and on the banks of the
Santee, arbor Anonymous whose fruit (muricatis) covered
with soft points, was almost ripe.190 Manigault ferry is
28 Miles from Manchester.
Two miles further on one takes the road to the right
called Gaillard road which is shorter than the ordinary
road but muddy in winter. Slept at the house of the
Widow Stuard 18 Miles from Manigault ferry. Tavern
dirty and without a supply of fodder for Horses.
The nth started very early; at a distance of 5 Miles
remarked Lupinus perennis and Lupinus pilosus in
flower. Distance from Charleston 40 to 43 Miles. Ar-
rived at the garden of the Republic 37 Miles from the
Widow Stuard's that is to say 47 Miles from Charleston.
Recapitulation of the journey from Illinois to Charleston.
From St Louis of the Illinois to Kaskias . 4 Miles
To the village of St Philippe . . . 45
To the Prairie du Rocher ... 9
To Kaskaskias .... .45
To the junction of the Mississipi and Belle Ri-
viere . . . . . 95
189 Probably Silene Pennsylvanica as suggested by Mr. Canby, or S. Bald-
winii, as suggested by Mr. Meehan. In both of the species the petals are some-
times rose colored. — C. S. S.
180 Planera aquatica, Gmelin.— C. S. S.
1 04 Early Western Travels [Vol. 3
To Fort Massac .".' . i . . 45 Miles
To the Junction of the Cumberland and Belle
Riviere ...... 18
To Clark's ville on the red river . . 120
To Nashville 60
To Bloodshed's lick191 .... 30
To Fort Blount on the Cumberland river . 40
To West Point on the Clinch river . . 90
To Knoxville on the Houlston river . . 40
From Knoxville to Iron Works . . 30
To Bull's gap 30
To Green's ville ..... 25
To John's borough .... 25
To Colonel Tipton's 10
To Limestone cove . . . . 18
To David Becker's beyond the Mountain called
Iron mountain ..... 23
From Backer's to Young's ... 20
To Morganton or Burke . . . 22
To Robertson's 30
To Lincoln ...... 16
To Tuck a Segee 22
To Wax Saw Creek .... 35
To Hanging Rock . . . . . 22
To Cambden ...... 26
To Manchester 30
To Manigault ferry . . . . 28
To Charleston ..... 70
Total . . . .1123 Miles
374 1 73 leagues
191 Bledsoe's Lick. A pioneer told Lyman C. Draper that this was often
called "the Bloody Ground," because so many whites were there killed by
Indians — note in Draper MSS., Wisconsin Historical Society, 3 XX 18. — ED.
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