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593 
J63 


JOURNAL. 

in  ottering  this  journal  to  the  public,  the  writer  makes  no  pretension* 
:o  authorship,  but  believes  that,  although  it  be  written  in  plain,  off-hand 
style,  nevertheless,  some  portions  of  it  may  be  interesting  to  the  public 
and  that  if  any  who  may  chance  to  read  it  are  about  to  "start  for  "Eldo- 
rado," they  may  derive  some  benefit  from  it.  whether  they  <rO  over  the 
Plains,  or  by  water.  The  writer  will  only  attempt  to  describe  objects  ahd 
incidents  as  he  saw  them. 

We  commenced  our  journey  from  Lake  countyHll.,  on  the  27th  day 
of  March,  (or  rather  I  did,  the  team  not  being  ready,  and  I  havin.r  some 
business  to  transact  at  Rock  River.) 

March,  28—1  left  Hainesville,  and  traveled  to  Franklinville,  McHenry 
Co.,  at  night  a  distance  of  30  miles. 

29th.  Reached  Belvidere  about  noon,  and  spent  the  remainder  of  the 
day  with  John  S.  Curtis,  Esq.  Belvidere  is  a  thrivino-  village  in  Boon  co., 
situated  in  the  midst  of  a  fertile  and  beautiful  country.  '  18  miles. 

30th.— Left  Belvidere  about  noon,  after  havincr  made  a  very  agreeable 

visit  wOh  Mr.  Curtis,  and  traveled  as  far  as  Rockford,  on  Rock  river,  where 

I  found  E.  Ford,  one  of  our  company,  and  several  others  from  Lake  coun- 

[   found  Ford  taking  care  of  a"  California  emigrant  from  Wisconsin, 

by  the  name  of  Maynard,  who  was  very   sick  at  the  Rockford  House. 

12  miles. 

1st.  I  remained  at  Rockford,  it  being  Sunday.  Rockford  is  one  of 
the  most  active  and  prosperous  villages  on  the  Rock  River,  and  when  the 
contemplated  railroad  from  Chicago  to  Galena  shall  be  completed,  it  will 
double  its  size  and  population.  The  water  power  furnished  by  damnino- 
the  Rock  River  in  unequaled.  It  is  used  now  to  some  extent,  but  is  ca° 
pable  of  driving  six  times  the  machinery  which  it  now  does. 

April  1st  Remained  at  Rockford.  Maynard  died  this  night  about  11 
o'clock.  He  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  his  wife  before  ^he  died,  she 
having  been  sent  for  by  the  landlord  of  the  Rockford  House.  How  many 
will  be  cut  down  by  disease*  on  this  crusade  to  California.  How  many 
will  die  where  they  can  have  no  friendly  hand  to  alleviate  their  •sufferings, 
time  only  will  tell. 

'!d.  Started  down  the  Rock  River— travelled  thirty  miles  through  a 
very  good  country,  and  stopped  over  nio-ht  at  the  house  of  an  old  towns- 
man and fri.MuI,  L.  Scott,  Esq.  30  miles. 

Itormy  and  cold;   went  over  to  Mr.  J.  R.  Merrill's,   another   old 
townsman,  and  spend  the  day. 

H!i.  Rained  at  Merrill's— visited  Grand  de  Tour,  a  thriving  vil- 
lage on  the  Rock  River,  about  four  miles  from  the  house  of  my  friend. 

5th.  Remaining  still  with  Merrill.  Disagreeable,  stormy  weather.— 
I  his  evening  J.  and  T.  B.  Infills  came  up  with  team  which  left  Haines- 
Sfille,  April  2d. 


»J  JOURNAL.    APRIL    1850. 

Gth.  Bought  a  korse  of  Merrill  to-day.  Bade  Mr.  M.'s  family  adieu., 
and  felt  like  leaving  home  again,  so  agreeably  had  the  time  passed  in  the 
society  of  my  frieiid  and  his  accomplished  family.  Found  one  of  our  hor- 
es  lame  with  a  sprained  ankle  ;  got  the  materials  and  made  some  lini- 
ment (by  directions  of  Mr.  Merrill,)  and  I  must  say  it  proved  the  most 
•effectual  remedy  for  sprains,  galls,  and  other  injuries  to  horses,  that  I  ev- 
er saw  used,  and  we  had  good  reason  to  be  thankful  to  Mr.  Merrill  for  im- 
partin<>-  the  knowledge  of  making  it  to  us,  before  we  got  through  with  our 
trip.  Ve  traveled  this  day  24  miles  down  Rock  river— weather  pleasant,  < 
and  roads  good.  2  *  miles. 

7th.  Sunday — traveled  about  25  miles,  pleasant  weather,  but  some 
bad  roads.  25  miles- 

8th.  Traveled  about  25  miles  to  Rock  Island.  Pleasant  weather ;  bc- 
mnninp-  to  get  into  th*  track  of  California  teams.  Took  in  some  hard 
bread,  visited  Rock  Islfnd  Lodge,  of  I.  O.  O.  F.,  where  I  found  a  cordial 
welcome  as  befitted  brothers.  -5  miles. 

April  9tk.  Crossed  the  Mississippi  to  Davenport,  Iowa;  took  in  25 
bushels  of  corn — paid  for  shelled  corn  38  cts.  per  bushel,  in  the  ear  30  cts. 
Purchased  also  most  of  our  other  necessaries,  excepting  meat  and  flour. 
1  was  surprised  to  find  Davenport  and  Rock  Island  such  large  places. — 
They  lie  opposite  each  other  on  the  Mississippi,  and  about  three  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  Rock  river.  They  are  surrounded  by  a  country  of 
fertile  soil  on  each  side  of  the  river,  and  bid  fair  in  a  few  more  years  to 
become  very  important  cities.  We  left  Davenport  at  noon,  and  traveled 
to  Hickory  Grove,  Scott  co. — roads  very  bad,  with  a  snow  storm  towards 
night,  14  mile9-. 

10th.  Left  Hickory  Grove  in  the  morning  and  made  25  miles  to  Tip- 
ton,  the  county  seat  of  Cedar  county.  Roads  very  bad,  mud  deep,  mostly 
prairie,  but  o-ood  land.  We  got  sloughed  once  to-day,  and  had  to  carry 
our  loads  on°our  backs.  We  found  Tipton  full  of  California  teams,  and 
had  to  let  our  horses  stand  out  for  the  first  time,  although  it  was  a  cold 
disagreeable  night,  25  miles- 

1 1th.  Left  Tipton  in  the  morning  and  reached  Cedar  River  about  noon 
—found  the  road  bad  enough,  but  better  than  it  had  been  for  a  couple 
of  days  past  We  ferried  across  the  Cedar  river  and  drove  a  few  miles, 
and  put  up  with  a  crowd  of  California  emigrants  at  the  log  house  of  an 
Irishman  by  the  name  of  Nolan,  a  clever  man,  who  did  the  best  his  slen- 
der means  permitted  to  make  us  comfortable.  During  the  night  it  rained 
and  snowed,  and  our  horses  had  an  uncomfortable  time  of  it,  and  we  did 
not  fare  much  better,  as  there  were  eleven  of  us  camped  on  the  floor  of 
a  log  shanty,  with  the  chinking  pretty  well  knocked  out,  so  that  the  wind, 
rain  and  snow  had  a  free  sweep  amongst  us.  15  miles. 

l'2th.  Very  windy  and  cold— started  on  account  of  our  horses,  and 
drove  twelve  miles,  to  Iowa  City,  where  we  arrived  about  noon,  after  one 
of  the  most  disagreeable  day's  drive  I  ever  experienced.  We  laid  over 
the  rest  of  the  day  on  account  of  the  wind.  We  here  found  quite  a  num 
ber  of  our  Lake  co.  friends,who  had  got  here  in  advance  of  us.  1 2  miles. 

13th.  Remained  in  Iowa  City;  the  wind  still  high  and  the  weather 
very  cold.  Iowa  City  is  quite  a"  place,  with  a  population,  as  I  am  told, 
of  about  2500.  It  is  the  scat  of  p-overnment  for  the  State  of  Iowa,  which 


JOCRNAL,    APRIL    1850.  ^ 

is  its  only  recommendation.     It  is  situated  on  the  Iowa  river,  which  is  nav- 
igable at  high  water  for  steamboats  of  a  small  class.     The'  State   House 
will  be  a    very  handsome  building  when  finished;   it  is  built  of  hewed 
stone,  on  the  bank  of  the  Iowa  river,  and  when  the  work   is  properly  fin- 
ished will  do  honor  to  the  State.     This  is  a  gathering  point  for  California 
teams,    and  the  town  is  now  full  of  them  lying  bye   on  account  of  bad 
,   weather.     It  is  supposed  there  are  100  wagons  here  now,  and  they  keep 
•>ming;  besides,    there  are  numbers  wind  bound  at  the  Cedar  river 

We  are  stopping  at  Swan's  Hotel,  the  best  house  in  the  city,  the  re- 
gister of  which  shows  the  names  of  great  numbers  of  our  town  and  county 
people  who  started  before  us — and  more  are  coming  after.  This  afternoon 
another  team,  or  the  advance  guard  of  it,  from  our  town  came  up.  We' 
now  begin  to  find  every  thing  higher  as  we  get  farther  advanced  towards 
the  frontiers.  Corn  is  worth  here  fifty  cents  a  bushel,  and  report  says 
that  towards  Council  Buffs  there  is  no  feed  for  horses  and  cattle  of  any 
'  kind  or  at  any  price. 

14th.  Sunday.  We  sttt  lie  over;  the  weather  has  become  more  mod- 
orate,  though  it  is  still  colP,  the  wind  has  gone  down,  so  that  it  is  more 
comfortable  travelling,  consequently  most  of  the  teams  have  left  town 
•m  their  route.  They  stretclfroff  across  the  prairie  this  morning  as  far  as 
the  eye  can  reach,  quite  an  army  of  themselves;  what  we  shall  find 
when  we  get  to  the  Missouri  riyer,  it  is  impossible  to  tell;  judo-ino-  from 
present  appearances  there  will  be  one  of  the  largest  armies  cono-r^gated 
that  were  ever  got  together  at  one  time  on  this  continent.  Most  of  the 
the  teams  that  go  to-day  head  /for  St.  Joseph,  the  prospect  beino-  bet- 
ter on  the  road  that  way,  and  after  they  get  there,  for  feed  for  teams  than 
on  the  Council  Bluffs  route.  We  are  all  in  too  much  of  a  hurry,  for 
there  is  no  probability  of  our  being  able  to  leave  the  frontiers  before  the 
I  Oth  of  May,  for  want  of  feed,  consequently  we  shall  have  to  tarry  two 
weeks  at  some  point,  and  we  think  it  best  lie"  bye  at  several  different  points 
than  all  at  once. 

April  15th.     Monday.     Left  Iowa  City  this  morning,  for  Washington, 
Bounty  seat  of  Washington  co.     Country   mostly    roling  prairie    for°  the' 
first  15  miles;  soil  very  good,  and  good  road,  being  the  military  road  built 
by  Government.     Streams  all  bridged  with  the  best  bridges  that  I  have 
seen  in  Iowa.     The  balance  of  the  road  to  Washington — having  left  the 
military  road — is  very  bad;  no  bridges ;  got  sloughed  in  a  creek,occasioned 
by  our  hindmost  evener  breaking;  after  unloading  we  got  our  wagon  out 
with  one  span  of  horses.     This  creek  was  within  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
>f  Washington.     I  think  there  is  no  better  evidence  of  the  want  of  enter- 
prise in  the  inhabitants,  than  to  find  such  places  unbridged  on  main  roads 
near  villages.     We  went   on  with  one  span  of  horses,  but  it  beino-   very 
ark  we  got  sloughed  again,  and  had  to  leave  our  wagon  and  go  on°to  the 
Jilage,  where  we  arrived  cross  and  hungry  about  eight  o'clock,  having 
5  miles,  and  had  the  hardest  day's  work  since  we  left  home.  How- 
ever, we  found  an  obliging  landlord,  which  made  up  somewhat  fo-  our 
trouble.     The  country  for  the    last  part  is  flat  prairie  and  very  wet.    I 
should  think  it  worthless.  28  miles. 

16.  Unloaded  our  wagon  and  got  it  out  of  the  mud  again  this  morning  A:, 
Carted  for  Brighton,  Washington  co.  1 1  miles.    Country  rolling,  the  best 


.HHK.\AI     APRIL     1850. 


land  on  the  cast  .side  of  the  Skunk  river,  that  I  had  seen  in  Juwa,  being 
rolling  openings.  Crossed  the  Skunk  river  on  a,  ferry.  Arrived  at  Brigh- 
ton about  2  o'clock,  P.  M. ;  commenced  snowing  soon  after,  and  we  had 
oue  of  the  hardest  snow  storms  of  the  season.  Continued  snowing  until 
midnight.  The  town  is  full  of  California  teams,  some  going  to  Council 
Bluffs,  and  some  to  St.  Joseph.  11  mile 5 

17th.  Laid  over  at.  Brighton.  Snow  this  morning  about  two  inches 
deep;  the  day  pleasant  but  cool;  the  wind  in  the  North  Arest.  Brighton 
is  quite  a  small  village,  has  three  or  four  stores,  one  steam  saw  mill,  be- 
sides a  fair  share  of  mechanics  and  other  business  men.  We  found  good 
accommodations,  with  the  worthy  landlord,  Mr.  Yates,  and.  spent  a  pleas- 
ant day.  The  snow  went  off  by  noon,  but  left  the  roads  muddy. 

18th.  Left  Brighton  this  morning  for  Fairrield,  Jefferson  co.,  where 
we  arrived  without  accident,  but  found  the  roads  muddy ;  weather  warm 
and  showery,  most  like  spring  of  any  day  this  month.  15  miles. 

•'lOth.  Stopped  last  night  at  the  Eagle  Hotel,  and  I  must  say  it  was 
the  nastiest  hole  I  ever  got  into,  and  everyth^ig  else  was  in  perfect  keep- 
ing, and  to  make  matters  even  worse,  the  Widlord  charged  the  highest 
bill  that  we  had  paid  on  the  road. 

Started  this  morning  for  lowaville,  sixteen  miles,  where  we  arrived 
.about  four  o'clock,  P.  M.,  and  put  up  for  the  night.  (By  the  way,  I  found 
an  old  townsman  and  school  mate  in  Fairlield,  that  I  had  not  seen  for  thir- 
teen years, — Ezra  Brown,  Esq.,  District  Attorney  for  that  judicial  dis- 
trict, and  editor  of  a  paper  there.  Of  course  I  stopped  to  visited  him  an 
hour  or  two,  and  then  passed  on  on  this  journey  of  time.  Shall  we  ever 
meet  again  ?) 

20th7  Crossed  the  Desmoines  river  this  morning.  This,  as  the  Hosiers 
say,  is  a  right  smart  chance  of  a  river,  between  two  and  three  hundred 
yards  wide,  and  would  be  navigable  for  steamboats  one  hundred  miles 
above  here,  if  it  were  not  for  the  dams  below,  of  which  I  understand 
there  arc  nine.  lowaville  is  situated  on  the  bank,  and  is  only  a  hamlet  of 
log  huts,  with  a  grocery  or  two,  but  has  a  steam  mill  building,  and  one 
in  operation  on  the  other  bank.  We  crossed  on  a  ferry — charge  75  cts. 
Most  of  our  route  to-day  lay  through  the  timber,  and  the  best  timber  too, 
I  have  seen  in  Iowa,  but  we  have  had  dreadful  road?,  the  worst,  in  fact, 
on  the  journey. 

We  arrived  at  Drakesville  about  four  o'clock  and  put  up  for  the  night, 
although  we  could  get  no"roughnes"for  our  team,  (as  they  call  hay  here ;) 
in  fact  we  are  getting  where  we  find  but  little  hay  or  grain.  Matters  look 
squally  ahead,  no  hay,  and  grass  not  an  ell  high,  and  growing  downwards 
at  that.  Grain  we  care  nothing  about  as  we  have  twenty  days  feed  on 
bread,  which  will  be  more  than  we  can  consume  before  we  reach 
St.  Joseph. 

20th.  Drakesville  is  a  small  village  of  log  houses,with  a  storc.blacksmith 
shop,  <tc.  it  is  situated  in  Davis  county.  The  inhabitants  I  understand 
are  mostly  Campbelitcs,  or  Disciples.  They  had  a  meeting  to-day,  and 
are  having  one  this  evening.  There  is  a  lodge  of  the  Sons  of  Temper- 
ance here,  too,  who  are  having  their  meeting  over  my  head.  I  did  not 
^xpect  to  find  anything  of  the  kind  in  this  back  country.  Good  speed  te 


JOURS'AL,    APRIL    i860.         '  « 

them.     I  understand  they  have  twenty  members,  and  have  two  or   three 
to  initiate  to-night.  on  m;W 

9lBt       T.5,;^  °,-^  of  n,n1^^:n.    :*!.-•          Q,      ,  .       ,  "V 

-\   Sunday,  remained  all    day.— 

.. — ~~  „„«  „  .^..  ,,o.B  uapuzcu  in  a  mud-hole  to-day  by  a  Disciple 

preacher.     Got  no  roughness,  as  the  people  here  call  hay ;  our  horses  had 
to  live  on  corn,  in  consequence  of  which  we  foundered  one. 

22u.  Lo.fi  Dr.i.cville  this  morning-,  had  one  of  the  most  muddy  road  son 
te  route    Camped  at  night  for  the  first  time,  on  a  small  brook;  could  get 
Ivi.!    t  .   on*     rl«..»   .,,..,;..;  -.1  .  .   o 


iy  miles,  passed  or.e  small  village  of  log  bouses,  (Unionvillc)  and  capped 
ithm  four  miles  of  Centreville,  county  seat  of  Appanose  co.     20  miles 
23d.    1  assed  Centreville  this  day,  and  made  18  miles  over  some  of  the 
•worst  roads  1  ever  saw  in  the  western  states. 

Though  the  country  generally  is  the  best  I  have  seen  in  Iowa,  beinr. 
we  1  timbered,  and  excellent  prairie,  I  do  not  like  the  water,  it  is  too 
milky.  .No  hay— camped  by  a  run.  18  m;]es 

24th.     Heard  a  wild  turkey,  gobbler  near  our  camp,  for  the  first  time 
Jonathan  started  after  him.but  did  not  get  a  shot  athim.    We  are  now  at 
noon  within  30  rods  of  the  Missouri  state  line,  and  ri^ht  glad  are  we  to  pet 
t  of  Iowa.    Have  been  in  company  the  last  two  days  with  3  teams  from 
Mineral  1  omt,  \\  is.  The  weather  to-day  is  very  pleasant  &  warm ;  the  war- 
,     mest  day  we  have  had  this  spring.    We  find  some  green  grass  to-day    We 
have  a  good  road  with  the  exception  of  one  bad  creek.     One  of  our  com- 
ades  got   his  horses  down  in  the  mud  and  went  back  to  roll  him  ouf 
the  rest  of  us  passed  without  much  trouble.     We  traveled  ten,  miles  into 
Missouri,  and  camped  by  a  small  stream.     We  here  saw    wild  turkeys  for 
the  first  time.     The  country  is  mostly  prairie,  and  very  good.     20  mil'es. 

!5th.     Very  warm  and  pleasant ;  made  about  twenty  miles  over  a  plea- 
sant country,  rather  uneven,    diversified  with    woods  and  prairie    thinly 
settled      Saw  several  wild  turkeys;  there  appears  to  be  plenty  of  such 
I1     Sarae  here"  20   miles 

26th.     Passed  through  heavy  timber  to-day  for   most   of  the  way  — 
Crossed  the  north  and  middle  fork  of  Grand  river,  and  passed  the  villa 

1  rmceton,  which  is  a  small  hamlet  of  log  houses  about  one  half  of  whici 
are  groceries.     Tried  to  buy  some  Hour— found  but  an  100  weight  in  th. 
,     village,  and  they  asked  $4  for  that.     I  concluded  I  would  not  take  it  ft 
two  reasons:     First,  if  they  had  but  one  cwt.  in  the  village,  they  n^ede 
|  themselves;  and  next,  I  did  not  like  to  be  sh:;ved  well  enough  to  pa- 
that  price.    Iney  asked  6l  50  per  bushel  for  corn. 

Uncle  Jo,    one    of  our  comrades  fr-.m  Mineral  Point,  and  myself,  wcrt 
I,    turkey  hunting  last  nifiht  (by  moonlight)      We  rambled  some  eiht  or 
ten  miles,  and  got  back  about  2  o'clock  in  the  morning,  minus  turkeys  not 
,    having  seen  one. 

The  day  has  been   excessively    warm,  and  we  are  in  hoprs   of  havir. 
ss  soon,  which   would  be  welcomo  as  our  horses  have  h;id  nntlp-- 
Hay  kind  but  dry  prairie  grass,  which   we  cut  ourselves  (and  some  nijVh 
we  could  not  ^t  that)  for  the  last  Imndml  miles,   and  wo  do  not  e 

•  Had  jiisy  mure.     We  cannot  camp  now  without  doin-r  it  in  a  jam    Th,     • 
are  some  30  or  40  wagons  ,-amped   around    us  r.ow,     oxen,    horses,    t  j, 
e  are  camped  to-night  ..n  the  Middle  Fork  of  Grand  river.     20  miles 


JOURNAL  APRIL  I860. 


WO  iiau  ;i  uvavv  DUWW«M  --   -  o 

_.:...i    ...„.,  in  t]ie  north-west,   and  cold.     We  left  ou 
nadc  20  miles.     We  passed  one  small  villa; 
nemanj.*.....*!  ,u  the  last,  i.  e.  groceries.    Have  passed  throu 
ful  country  to-day.alternately  timber  and  prairie  some  of  it  has  been  sett 
eleven  years,  but  we  cannot  buy  a  loaf  of  bread,  a  dozen  eggs,  or  any  hay 
or  straw,  or  in  fact  anything  to  eat  for  man  or  beast  with  the  excep  ,  ion  of 
bac«,  and  that  raised  itself.    We  were  lucky  enough  to  lay  in   supp  hes  fo 
,n  and  beast  before  we  got  into  this  region.     It  is  a  great  pity  tn»' 
i  is  a  slave  state;   were    it  a  free  state,  so  that  ^f*™*,*! 
ould  settle  in  it,  all  this  great  region  of  valuable  lai   ' 
improved,  and  there  is  no  part  of  the  western  counir    --•  -™  • 
northern  part  of  Missouri  in  beauty  and  fert.h'" 
and  watered  than  Illinois,  and  is  rather  more  ui 
is  necessary  to  make  good  farming  land. 

28th.     Sunday.     We   started   again    this   roor 
miles  to  the  main  branch  of  the  Grand  nver.which 
This  is  the  last  timber  before  crossing  a  prairie 
go  on  intending  to  camp  on  the  prairie,  but  the  0 

north-west)  we  concluded  to  lay  over  until  to-morrow  Our  camping 
,,  round  looks  like  the  camp  of  an  army.  Horses,  picketed  tents,  with  the 
star  spangled  banners  flying,  wagons  standing  around,  while  1,  -ing  by  the 
side  of  logs  and  trees  are  brawny,sun-b- 
taliing  their  ease.  Within  thirty  minu* 
wagons  camped.  Since  then  they  ha 
continually.  How  many  there  are 
and  still  they  come.  Bi'*  this  is  1 
St.  Joseph,  which  we  exp... 
from  this  place,  we  are  tolt 
a  mile  from  here,  is  Gentryville,  the  co 
a  rio-ht  smart  place,  as  they  say  out  this  ... 
two  taverns,  with  a  fair  sprinkling  of  stores  ai 
think  the  water  power  very  good  for  this  country,  and  capable  of  supply- 


tUnOtlaS  Loft  our  camping  ground  and  traveled  14  miles  to  St.  Joseph. 
Weather  very  cold  anAmdy-no  grass  nor  hay.     We  have  .traveled  1200 
miles  without  jrrass  or  hay,  but  have  cut  dry  P^~Jff«*"*2  "*£ 
find    it,     Camjed    in   a  ravine  half    a    mile    north  of  St  Joseph-  J5t 
Joseph  is  quite1  a  village,  and  doing  H  groat  deal  of  business  at  this  time^ 
But  the  way  they  fleece  California  em.grants  is  worth  noticing.     I  shou 
advise  all  going  "the  overland  route  to  take  every  thing  along   with  then 
that  they   can  of  small  weight,  as    every  little  thing  costs  three  or 
1  mesas   mu.b   here  a.  at  home      The  markets  are  filled    with  broken 


JOURNAL,    APRIL    1850. 

JOWD  horses  jockeyed  up   for  tbe  occasion,  and  unbroken  muK-s,  which 
they  assure  you  are  handy  as  sheep.     It  is  the    greatest  plane  for    gam 
bling,  and  all  other  rascality  that  I  was  ever  in.       We    have    to    stand 
guard  over  our  horses  as  much  as  if  we  were  in  the  Indian  country.     It 
fs  said  that  one  or  two  men  have  been  shot  by  the  emigrants  while  in  the 
act  of  stealing  horses.     Here  let  me  before  leaving  the  State  of  Missouri 
say  one  wordln  relation  to  the  country.     We  traveled  about  one  hundred 
and  eighty  miles  through  the  north-west  part  of  the  State  which  is  mostly 
unsettled.     We  found  the  country  the  best  I  had  ever   seen  in  the  great 
Mississippi  Valley,   and  I  had  seen    a  great  share  of  it.     It  is  ajjerfecl 
paradise  for  the  agriculturist,  the  manufacturer  and  the  hunter.     The  soil 
is  warm  and  fertile,  the  wild  prairie    grass   growing  as  high  as  a  man's 
waist  on  the  uplands.     An  abundance  of  good  timber  skirts  the  streams. 
The  land   is  roling,  approaching   the  hilly,    and     wi-11  watered  by  rivers, 
brooks,  and  springs  of  pure   clear  water,  running  over  gravelly  or  rocky 
beds  in  clear  banks,  free  from  sloughs  or  marshes.     The  streams  furnish 
an  abundance  of  the  best   water  power  suitable    for   driving  all  kinds  of 
machinery.     The  prairies    and  woods   are  tilled  with  abundance  of  deer, 
wild  turkeys  and  other  game,  and  of  wild  honey.     The  river  bottoms  un- 
covered with  endless  quantities  of  plums,  sweet  grapes,  and  various  othef 
wild  fruits  in  the  greatest  abundance.     Nature  has  seemed  to  lavish  her 
best  gifts  on  this  country  in.  the  greatest  profusion;  yet  with  all  it  remains 
a  wilderness,  only  inhabited  by   a  few  straggling  squatters  whose  whole 
aim  is  to  raise  what  corn  and  bacon  they  can  consume,  and  kill  a  sufficien- 
cy of  game  to  supply  their  daily  wants.  Why  is  it  so?  Is  it  because  it  is  one 
or  200  miles  back  from  the  Mississippi  ?  This  cannot  be  the  reason.for  thou- 
sands are  now  emigrating  farther  back  into  the  wilds  of  Minesota.  Is  it  not 
owing  to,  and   one  of  the  fruits  of,  the   blighting  curse  of  slavery  ?- 
the  driving  of  free  men  of  the  northern  states  to  emigrate  to  more  uncon- 
genial soil  and  climate,  rather  than  settle  in  a  slave  state.     This  is  a  ques- 
tion which  all  Missourians  who  love  their  State  should  investigate.     The 
west,  and  north-west  part  of  Missouri  is  capable  of  supporting  a  popula- 
tion larger  than  the  whole  present  population  of  the  State.     It  is  a  coun- 
try superior  in  soil,  climate,  water,  timber  and  other  natural  advantages,  to 
any  portion  of  the  great  Mississippi  Valley.yet  it  is  unsettled,and  apparent- 
ly will  be  for  a  long  time,the  current  of  emigration  being  turned  into  Iowa, 
Minesota  and  Wisconsin,  simply  because  men  raised  in  free   states  do  not 
like  the  idea  of  settling  in  slave  states.     Would  it  not  be  better  for  Mis- 
souri to  abolish  slavery,  and  thereby  cause  her   millions  of  acres  of  rich 
lands  to  "be  settled  by  intelligent  farmers,  with  villages  springing  up  on  ev- 
ery water  course,  than  to  retain  her  few  thousands  of  slaves,  the  profit  of 
which  to  the  owner  is  really  questionable?     But  I  do  not  intend  to  write 
a  lecture  on  slavery,  but  these  thoughts  would  intrude  themselves   upon 
me  as  I  was  traveling  through  this   beautiful   wilderness  country;  for  I 
can  say  with  the  greatest  sincerity  that  I   know  of  no  part  of  the  world 
that  it  is  so  desirable  to  locate  in  as  this,  but  with  this  objection  the  coun- 
try   never  will  be   settled  densely,  for  the    simple    reason  that    emi- 
grants  from     the    South   prefer    going    to  a  more   southern  climate, 
where     their    negroes  can    be   made  more    profitable    raising    cotton 


JOURNAL,    MAY    1850. 

and  sugar,  to  going  into  the  west  part  of  Missouri,  and  emigrants  from 

the  North  object  to  settling  in  a  slave  state. 

May  1st.     Remained  encamped  as  before.     Weather  more   moderate 

but  too  cold  for  grass  to  grow. 

2d.     Remain  camped  as  before.     Sent  down  the   river  five  miles  and 

got  30  bushels  of  corn  in  the  ear  at  90  cents  per  bushel ;  bought  1 1  bush- 
s  of  shelled  corn  at  the  camp  for  one  dollar  per  bushel,   which  we  got 

ground  into  meal.     Commenced  raining  in  the  afternoon,  and  rained  "all 

n'ght ;  we  had  a  very  disagreeable  time  of  it. 

3d.     Got  our  stores   mostly    on  board   and  crossed    the  Missouri  and 

drove  six  miles  to  the  Bluffs,  and  camped.     We  found  the  whole  six  miles 

a  camping  ground,  and  a  good  sized  city  of  tents  at  the  Blufls    probably 

six  thousand  men.     Weather  still  cold.  Q  mi\es 

4th.     Remain  camped  at  the  same  place.     Went  back  to  the  town  ard 

got  the  remainder  of  our   supplies;  had  a    very   warm  day,  but  a  cold 

night  before  it — ice  made  |ths  of  an  inch  thick. 
5th.     Sunday.     Remained  camped  at  the  same  place;  had  a  pleasant 

day.     There  was  a  funeral  down  at  the  lower  end  of  the  camp  to-day;  it 

was  about  a  mile  from  our  camp,  I  did  not  learn  the  particulars.  Met  at 
night  to  try  and  organize  a  company ;  chose  a  committee  and  adjourned 
until  the  next  night  at  five  o'clock. 

6th.  Remained  at  the  same  place.  Went  to  town  to  try  the  Post  Of- 
fice again  before  we  started,  but  found  nothing.  By  the  way,  I  forgot  to 
say  that  we  are  in  the  Nebraska  Territory  now,  and  on  the  Indian  lands. 
The  Indians  do  not  like  it  very  well  that  the  whites  camp  on  their  ground 
on  account  of  cutting  timber.  (There  are  about  500  of  them  camped  near 
us.)  The  men  met  again  to  organize;  I  was  not  present,  but 
they  made  out  nothing.  We  concluded  to  go  with  the  same  company  that 
we  had  been  in :  Trimble,  Sublett,  Ainsly,  Welch  and  Trammel  &  Co 
irom  Mineral  Point,  Wisconsin. 

7th.  Had  a  bad  night  last  night;  it  rained  and  snowed  nearly  all  ni^ht. 
Had  about  two  inches  of  snow  on  the  ground  this  morning.  It  cleaned 
off  about  10  A.  M.,  when  we  struck  our  tent  and  started  on  the  long  jour- 
ney. Weather  came  off  fine  and  warm;  find  some  grass  but  none  to 
amount  to  anything;  still  have  to  cut  dry  grass.  We  made  20  miles  to- 
day, and  camped  on  a  small  creek.  We  have  nine  teams  in  company  that 
expect  to  go  through  together,  although  we  are  not  organized,  viz :  (be- 
sides myself)  Thomas  Tnmble.and  William  Sublett  &  Co.,Stephen  Ainsly 
and  party,  Litwiler  and  company,  and  Daughterly  and  company.  We 
have  mechanics  of  every  trade,"  and  various  musicians,  and  while  I  am 
writing,  one  of  the  company  is  enlivening  the  solitude  with  a  fine  toned 
key  bugle  ;^  one  ought  to  be  here  in  the  wilderness  to  know  the  value  of 
music.  We  have  37  men  in  our  party,  and  if  the  other  teams  come  up 
1  join  us  we  shall  have  41.  This  I  think  is  a  large  enough  party,  as 
we  cannot  camp  any  where  after  this  without  being  near  other  companies, 
several  of  whom  an-  nmv  camped  above  and  below  us.  We  expect  to  go 
as  t;.r  as  the  Indian  Mission  to-morrow.  12  miles.° 

cth.  Made  14  miles  over  a  rather  hilly  country,  and  passed  the  Indian 
Mission,  and  camped  tvo  miles  from  ii  on  a  creek*  We  found  some  fine 
ar/ns  at  this  mission ;  it  was  a  pleasing  si^ht  to  us  to  sec  the  wheat  fields; 


JOURNAL,    APRIL    1850. 

hey  appeared  to  compare  well  with  the  wheat  fields  of  Illinois.  Passed 
orae  dead  horses  on  the  road  to-day ;  also  some  graves  of  those  buried 
ast  year.  Several  teams  came  up  and  joined  us  this  night  14  miles. 

9th.  Traveled  about  25  miles  to-day  over  a  prairie  country,  passed 
ieveral  more  craves  made  last  year.  We  have  not  dQn  any  fresh  ones 
•et,  but  found~more  dead  horses.  This  is  the  result  of  feeding  too  much 
iorn  with  no  hay  or  grass.  The  grass  seems  to  be  getting  a  little  better 
is  we  "-et  on.  Have  had  a  very  hot  day,  and  dry,  and  good  roads  with 
the  exception  of  two  or  three  mud  holes.  Some  more  teams  came  up 
and  camped  with  us — we  turned  oft'  from  the  road  and  camped  on  a 
small  creek.  25  miles 

10th.  Had  21  wagons  in  our  tram  this  morning.  >Ve  call  ail  lianas 
it  4  o'clock  A.  M.  now,  and  start  about  £  past  6.  Had  some  rain  last 
lio-ht,  when  the  wind  shifted  to  the  north-west,  very  cold,  and  we  hare 
iad  one  of  the  best  roads  to-day  that  I  ever  saw ;  plank  roads  are  no 
•omparison  to  it,  and  have  passed"  over  the  most  beautiful  prairie  country 
a  the  world,  with  little  timber,  and  that  dwarf  burr  oak,  but  the  soil  is 
>qual  to  the  best  in  Illinois.  We  turned  cff  from  the  road  about  one  mile 
2d  camped  on  a  branch,  about  3  o'clock,  P.  M.  The  grass  is  still  impro- 
vinf  We  have  about  75  men  in  our  company,  which  is  too  many,  so 
many  cannot  agree.  While  I  am  writing,  two  of  them  are  very  near  fight- 
ing, and  the  captain,  Wm.  Soublett  stands  between  them,  as  this  is  the 
onlr  means  of  keeping  them  apart.  We  cannot  go  on  long  with  so  many, 
I  think  Passed  some  more  graves,  and  dead  horses  to-day ;  m  fact  we 
we  expect  to  every  day.  It  looks  bad  to  see  so  many  at  this  end  of  the 

•  route  25  mlles> 

llth      Drove  22  miles  to-day.     Passed  a  Chicago  wagon  broken  down 
'  at  a  creek;  Hurrunin,  of  Waukegan,  belonged  to  the  party.     The  coun- 
try is    prairie,  without  timber,  excepting  a  few  scattering  trees   on    the 
creeks.     We  were  delayed  some  time  by  a  train  of  ox  teams  at  a  creek ; 
1  while  we  were  watering   I   fell   asleep,  and  came  very   near  being  left 

•  behind  the  team.  Ford,  came  back  and  sroused  me.     I  stood  guard  last 
1  night,  which  was  the  cause  of  my  being  so  sleepy;  passed  several   dead 

horses,  and   the   graves  of  many  buried  last  year.  22  miles. 

1 2th.     Sunday!     Not  having  a  good  camping  spot  we  concluded  to  trav- 

•  el  and  made  30  miles,  and  reached  Blue  river.     Here   we  found  a  large 

•  city  of  tents,  and  preaching.     There   were  probably   2000  men  camped 
within  two  miles  of  the  crossing;  and  here  we  found  wagons  broken  down 

:  last  year,  with  irons  of  those  burnt.  Voted  two  teams  out  of  the  tram 
'  this  morning  for  disobedience  of  orders.  The  night  was  cold,  but  the 
1  day  was  warm.  We  found  some  last  year's  graves,  besides  the  usual 
.'  amount  of  dead  horses.  This  point  is  called  120  miles  from  St.  Joseph, 
|  but  I  think  it  is  more.  Roads  good. 

Blue  River,  or  as  it  is  commonly  called,  tho  Big  Blue,  is  a  beautifu. 
1  clear  stream,  about  eight  rods  wide,  and  at  this  time  about  three  feel 
deep.  It  is  a  favorite  camping  ground  for  California  emigrants.  It  has 
a  skirt  of  timber,  mostly  cotton  wood,  from  8  to  100  rods  wide  along  its 
west  bank,  and  generally  plenty  of  grass  may  be  found, 
ever  the  emigrant  is  detained  here  for  two  or  three  weeks  by  1  e  higii 
water,  when  his  only  consolation  is  in  hunting  antelope  and  wild  tur- 


JOURNAL,    MAY    1850. 


kies,  of  which  game  there  is  an  abundant  supply  on  this  river,  and  m 
fashing.  We  caught  a  few  small  cat  fish  after  we  had  camped,  but  did  not 
hare  time  to  try  the  qualities  of  the  stream  for  fish  to  any  great  extent 
This  stream  is  in  the  Pawnee  country,  and  consequently  I  would  advise 
all  emigrants  whfhunt  remote  from  the  road  and  their  trains,  to  be  on 
their  guard,for  the  Pawnees  are  a  very  treacherous,hostile  race,  and  would 
not  be  likely  to  omit  of  an  opportunity  offered  to  strip  a  solitary  hunter 
and  send  him  in  minus  his  gun,  clothes,  and  perfectly  na- 
ked, for  they  seem  to  be  a  people  much  given  to  such  practical  jokes,  aa 
some  who  have  traveled  this  road  can  testify.  30  miles'. 

13th.  Made  about  25  miles  to-day,  but  found  but  little  grass.  Have 
had  a  good  road,  and  a  very  hot  day.  Litwiler  and  myself  scouted  to- 
day for  a  good  camping  ground,  and  found  one  where  there  was  good 
grass  and  water,  but  no  wood  except  a  few  dry  willows,  which  we  made 
answer  our  wants  for  the  night.  We  had  the  misfortune  to  burst  one  of 
our  inside  hub  bands  whilst  wedging  up  the  boxes  this  evening,  which  al- 
though a  small  matter  in  the  States,  jr.et  may  prove  a  very  serious  one 
out  here  on  the  plains,  two  hundred  miles  from  a  blacksmith's  shop,  as  it 
may  be  the  means  of  losing  our  wagon.  25  miies. 

14th.    Made  an  early  start  and  traveled  28  miles;  passed  a  new  made 
grave  (made  this  morping)  of  a  young  man  who  accidentally  shot  him- 
.hrough  the  head,  whilst  in  the  act  of  taking  a  rifle  out  of  the  wag- 
on with  the  muzzle  towards  him.    He  was  from  Illinois.    We  have  had 
a  dry,  hot  day,  and  the  dust  has  been  very  annoying  to  us.     Litwiler  and 
myself  scoured  the  creek  bottoms  to-day  again  in  search  of  irons  of  wag- 
ons that  had  been  burnt,  and  succeeded  in  finding  some  hub  bands,  with 
which  I  repaired  our  wagon  so  that  it  answered  as  well  as  before  it  was 
broken.     We  turned  off  from   the  road    this  evening  about  a  mile,  and 
camped  by  a  branch  of  the  Little  Blue  river,  where  we  found  a  plentiful 
supply  of  grass,  wood  and  water.     Litwiler  killed  a  wild  turkey  this  eve- 
ning, which  was  very  fat     We  have  a  beautiful  camping  ground  as  the 
heart  could  desire;   our  wagons  are   circled,  with  the  tents  on  the  out- 
side hke  a  Tartar  village,  on  the  side  of  a  gen  tie  sloping  knoll,  at  the  base 
f  which  stretches   off  to  the  river,  a  beautiful  grove  of  timber  through 
which  runs  a  clear  sparkling  brook  made  by  a  copious  spring  which  arises 
from  the  ground  only  a  few  rods  from  our  encampment.     Our  horses  are 
feeding  about  in  sight  on  the  side  hills,  cropping  the  rich  grass,  an  abund- 
ance of  which  they  have  not  had  before  since  we  started  on  this  long  jour- 
ney.    Indeed  we  look,  if  we  except  the  wagons,  more  like  a  wandering 
band  of  Tartars  than  a  company  of  christians  bound  on  a  business  excur- 
ion;  and  the  appearance  of  our  men  does   not  tend  to  destroy  the  illu- 
5ion,  as  sunburnt  and  bearded  with  their  belts  stuck  full  of  bowie  knives 
and  revolvers,  they  lounge  about   in  groups  on  the  ground  around  the 
»  nres,  or  busy  themselves    amongst   the    horses,   or  in  the  various 
sports  which  are  got  up  by  the  travelers  on  the  plains  to  while  away  the 
time.     But  it  requires  a  more  able  pen  than  mine  to  describe,  vividly,  a 
e  like  this.     To  sec  it  and  feel  it  in  all  its  beauty,  one  must  be  hund- 
reds of  miles  from   civilization,   out  ou   those   great  ocean  like    prairies, 
vJiere  the  sight  of  a  tree  is  welcome  to  the  traveler  as  the  sight  of  a  sail 
.0  the  mariner  when  he  has  been  for  a  long  time    traversing  an  unknown 


JOURNAL,   MAY    188 

Hem«5lbethcre.onabatayur^e, 


sings  of  grass,  : 

the  plains  holds  essenl 

scene  of  this  kind,  but 

beauties  of  nature  in 

wVld  rive  a  life-like  picture  of  such 

«fl?    Remained  at  the  same  camp  to-d 

make  some  repairs  on  the  wa-- 
have  been  hunting        ~ 
report  having  seen 
have  brought  in  noth, 
in  with  a  back  loa 
ing  any  other  mea          - 
very  necessary  garment  an 
Perhaps  by  night  they  may   succeed 
change      I  have  been  busy  repairing  the  hub 
t  equally  busy,  shoeing  ^  *^± 
cam    Me.  e 


t  of  the  men 
>eing  noon,  and 
wives,  &c. ;  but 
who  has  just  come 
is  shirt,  he  not  hav- 
ed  himself  of  that 


hileotc 

tfending  to  other 

t  and  S*  tea,  (» 

«  I  went 


16th.     Traveled  zo  ""^A  with  sandy  and  rocky  K 

face  of  the  country  is  pramc  di^ed  wit        ^  ^  s 

no  water  fit  for  man  to  drink,  althoxign  tner  de8ttorte-  of  timber 

the  horses  may  drink  as  a  last  resort.     Ihe  co       y  yolcanoes  and 

and  has  every  appearance  of  having  been          JJJ  drive  that  we  h 
taking  it  altogether,  ^^^  Syi  and  the  dust  has  been 

We  found  a  company  camped        £  *nc  Ac  ^^  ^ 

.^j  :r  «    vom  falls  m  that  time  to  turn  throuch,  01  r 


Bended  with  greater  respon 


JOURNAL,   MAY    1850. 


. 

£^l£±:  H°WeVCr  there  ™  no  he]P  for  *  thc  ™<"P»°r  »«- 
lie  voice  "anTg        r7  ac(}uiescence'  ~  I  was  forced  to  yield  to  the  "p 
We  struck  on  T  rd;n^  e,ntfred  upon  the  discharge   of  my  duties. 
where  we  becal  f.       "  ,half  paSt  **  A"  M"  and    <™ssed  the   branc^ 
Cpened  to  ,T       K  im"°luniary  **"««<*  cf  a  terrible   accident     ^- 

wePannr0achefi  7f!f        •  '^  fr0m  ab°VG  US  abuut  the  time  weleft 
rur  com,        V  ,     ma  n  Td  WG  Were  alongside  ^  them,  and  some  of 
rpS0"L!"    li^f   f^'ndsln   the  °ther  trftin'    both    train.  w*e 
fbelon  ™L  t       °  tn7  d'V  '•Vnv™t''"«-     A  few  nun.ents  afterwards 
"g  to  the  other  train,  frightened  the  mults  belonging  to  one 
vv,  gons,  ahead  of  wk         ere  a  span  of  high  spirited  horses,  cau- 
umneduno'    on.     f0"'  '  :'Un  and    ron-    ^on  instantly  the  dog 

orfto  C  f  r  i  h*      T"  '  "'  "d  bk  ^  ^^  and  add'ng  muc^ 

the  too  of  ?  wl   T    ,  *i      i  "I*™  Was   loaded  to  the  toP  of  the  bows,  on 
me  un£    Tl       ^  ^  P™  wh°  reined  the  horses  and  m«^s  for  some 
1  a  hue  broke,  when  they  turned  down  a  steep  gull,,  turning  the 

JffiSfttT  a?d  burrng  the  driver  underthe  ^  the  lead- 

\hpi  f6  C  'f  fr°m  the  mules'  and  the  latter  turned  °^r  and 
eb^n  tlu  nff  fef'the,re7e^^m  their  original  position,  the  nigh  one 
•ing  on  the  off  side,  and  the  off  one  on  the  nigh  side.  The  horses  ran 

attach'edr  I0"'  ^  ^  mules  nin  in  anothcr'  ^  the  forward  whed, 
"  '^  the  d°     w 


e 
the  dogs  were  shot,  although  frequently  s  Srlun^'ll  "th  CaUSht  ^ 

walon  T      ^    '?'  ,"?  T  th°Ught  We  should  find  him  ki»ed  outright  The 
wagon  was  completely  broken  to  pieces,  and  they    were  compelled  to  e 

fnTver    saw"  hirTT  ^/""f  «d  to  take'  care  of  ZFnjured  m  n." 
hdydog  I  wa,  to!d  had  killed  fm*  for  theLia  o,;«t^  S^the" 


JOURNAL,    MAY    1850.  li 

look  out  for  treachery.  We  saw  some  buffalo  to-day — one  was  killed  last 
night  a  short  distance  above  our  camp.  We  camped  this  night  on  the 
Little  Blue,  where  we  found  plenty  of  grass.  Litwiler  and  Ranahan 
killed  two  antelope  this  evening,  which  furnished  our  camp  with  fresh 
meat  again.  We  found  plenty  of  signs  of  beaver  this  night,  our  sentries 
hearing  them  splashing  their  tails  in  the  water  nearly  all  night;  on  the 
banks  of  the  river  were  trees  one  foot  in  diameter  cut  down  by  them. 

22  miles. 

1 9.  Sunday.  We  concluded  to  travel  to-day.  Left  the  Blue  for  the 
last  time  about  noon.  A  man  had  three  horses  and  $500  stolen  last  night 
by  his  own  guard,  who  left  him  with  his  wife  and  two  other  women  with- 
out a  team.  We  took  in  water  at  the  last  place  that  we  struck  the  Blue 
river,  having  21  miles  to  travel  without  good  water.  Met  a  train  com- 
ing from  Robadeau's  trading  post,  with  five  wagon  loads  of  buffalo  skins 
and  other  peltries.  We  stopped  and  wrote  letters  and  sent  back 
to  the  States  by  them,  for  which  we  paid  them  25  cents  for  each  letter. 
Robadeau  himself  was  along,  riding  in  a  nice  covered  carriage,  smoking 
his  pipe,  enjoying  all  the  comfort  imaginable.  25  miles. 

20th.  We  camped  last  night  on  the  prairie  without  wood  or  water,  on- 
ly some  rotten  slough  water,  bad  enough  to  poison  a  horse.  We  had  a 
wind  storm,  with  heavy  thunder,  just  at  night,  but  no  rain.  It  came  up- 
on us  instantly  without  warning,  and  before  we  could  secure  our  tents 
they  were  all  blown  down  but  two,  which  were  protected  by,  and  secured 
to  the  wagons.  It  was  terrific,  raising  loaded  wagons  on  the  side  next  to 
the  wind,  two  feet  from  the  ground;  we  expected  they  would  be  blown 
over,  and  nothing  saved  them  from  being  overturned  but  their  loads,  for 
-if  they  had  nut  been  loaded  they  would  have  been  swept  away  before  the 
wind  like  feathers.  Some  of  the  time  it  was  impossible  for  a  man  to 
keep  his  feet.  I  never  saw  such  a  storm  of  wind  in  the  States,  and  hope 
I  may  not  see  another  on  this  journey.  We  drove  26  miles  and  camped 
on  an  island  in  the  Platto,  or  Nebraska  river,  about  two  miles  below  Fort 
Kearney,  where  we  found  plenty  of  grass  and  fuel.  Saw  some  antelope, 
deer  and  buffalo  to-d<iy,  but  did  not  try  to  kill  any.  26  miles. 

21st.  Remained  over  to  repair  damages,  and  to  cut  our  wagon  boxes 
off  and  make  them  shorter.  Had  some  rain  in  the  morning.  A  report  is 
current  here  this  morning  that  a  train  was  cut  oft'  by  the  Indians  on  Sun- 
day night,  (where  we  baited  Sunday  noon.)  A  company  of  dragoons  have 
left  the  Fort  to-day  to  investigate  the  matter.  Fort  Kearney  is  conside- 
rable of  a  fort,  built  of  adobies  or  unburnt  brick.  It  is  built  in  the  form 
of  a  paralelogram,  the  centre  forming  a  square  which  is  defended  by  a 
park  of  artillery.  /The  garrison  consists  of  about  250  soldiers,  who  seem 
to  be  under  excellent  discipline.  The  commander's  name  I  did  not  learn. 
The  whole  affair  seems  to  be  well  calculated  to  keep  the  Indians  in  check, 
but  I  think  would  be  of  very  little  account  in  repelling  an  attack  made  by 
scientific  troops,  supported  with  good  artillery. 

22d.  Started  again  this  morning,  traveled  22  miles  up  the  Platte  riv- 
er. Our  road  lay  along  the  Platte  bottom,  and  was  very  good,  but  some- 
what slippery  from  the  rain  that  fell  day  before  yesterday.  The  Platte 
bottom  on  this  side  of  the  river,  is^from  10  to  15,miles  wide,  being  ter- 
minated on  the  side  opposite  from  the  river  by  high  sand  hills  or  bluffs. 


"'1J10.AI..    MAY     I!-'/)". 

The  river  itself  is  about  two  miles  wide,  with  a  swift  current,  but  filled 
up  with  innumerable  islands  and  sand  bars. 

23d.  Our  road  still  leads  up  the  Platte  bottoms.  The  land  is  verj 
good,  and  we  lind  some  grass,  best  where  there  is  no  wood,  except  some 
willows  and  cotton  wood  on  the  islands  in  the  river.  We  saw  i ..uie  ante- 
lope and  bulFalo  to-day,  but  they  were  back  on  the  h!u(^,  and  our  men 
thought  too  much  of  their  spare  horses  to  follow  '.  -~>  miles. 

24th.  Continue  still  up  the  Plane  bottom.  We  i'ov.nd  some  excellent 
springs  of  cool  water,  which  were  a  treat  to  us,  as  wo  ha\e  had  a  very 
hot  day,  and  our  water  has  all  along  been  muddy  river  water.  We  ue.re 
compelled  to  use  buffalo  chips  to-day  for  fuel,  there  being  no  wood,  i 
suppose  many  of  my  lady  readers  vould  rather  ii;r:i  up  their  no.-es  at  a 
hoe  cake  baked  on  buffalo  chips,but  I  assure  them  I  s.aw  ladies,  who  were 
genteel,  that  seemed  to  eat  cakes  baked  with  this  fuel  with  great  apparent 
relish.  The  buffalo  chips  used  are  drop]  ings  <  f  buffalo  the  year  previ- 
ous. They  become  entirely  dry,  and  make  \eryp.od  fuel,  and  are  the 
main  depeudancc  for  cooking  Y«..>r  tl:e  next  800  miles.  MM!  ur.til  we  get 
into  the  sage  country.  One  of  our  men  waded  •  day 

while  we  were  baiting.  The  water  was  about  three  feet  deep,  except  on 
the  sand  bars,  where  it  was  often  not  over  six  inches  deep.  The  width 
of  the  river  is  about  one  mile.  We  began  to  lind  alkali  on  t!;o  surlacc 
of  the  ground  to-day.  In  some  places  it  was  half  an  i::<-h  i.i  depth,  and 
tastes  like  air  slacked  sabvratus.  We  found  but  little  grass  on  this  day'  s 
travel,  but  a  very  good,  level  road,  and  saw  some  antelope.  25  miles. 

25th.     Weather  still  hot,  with  cold  nights.     The  wind   changes  about 
midnight,  and  blows  cold  from  the  west  until  noon  of  the  next  day,  in  the 
afternoon  it  dies  away,  leaving  the  atmosphere  hot  and  sultry      The  wind 
suddenly  changed  this  evening,  and  blew  a  perfect  tornado.  It  would  have 
made  a 'parson  splithis  sides  with  laughter  if  he  could  have  refrained  from 
holding  the  hair  on  his  own  head  long  enough  to  laugh — to  have  seen  the 
the  perfect  confusion  and  lurmoil  which  our  camp  was  thrown  into  when 
it  struck  us.     Tents  were  Hying  in  the  air,  men  chasing    their    lint,  with 
the  most   persevering  energy ;  some  were   holding  down  their    tents    to 
keep  them  from  tumbling  down,  while  others  were  tumbling  them  down 
to  keep  them  from  being  torn  into  ribbons,  and  others  in    the  greatest  ex- 
citement were  securing  the  covers  of  their  wagons  to  prevent  their  being 
blown  away;  in  truth  it  was  one  of  the  most  dolighti'ui  scenes  of  confu- 
sion, turmoil  and  dismay  that  could  be  imagined.     For  our  part,  we  had 
noticed  the  coming  change  a  few  moments  before  it  came  about,  and  had 
secured  our  tent  to  our  wagon,    so  that  it  weathered  the  gale;  ours  and 
one  other  were  the  only  ones  in  the  camp  that  remained  standing  when  the 
blow  passed  over.     The  tornado  lasted  about   thirty  minutes,  but  during 
that  time  it  leveled  every  tent  in  every  encampment  in  sight  of  us,  (but 
the  two  in  our  camp.)     This  is  the  second  time  we  have  had  such  a  blow 
out,  but  we  expect  to  find  more  of  them  before  we  get  through.     The 
grass  is  poor  to-day,  and  no  wood  except  willows  on  the  islands  and  buf- 
falo chips,  of  the  latter  of  which  there  are  a  great  plenty.        28  miles. 

26th.  Sunday.  A  part  of  our  train  concluded  to  lie  over  to-day,  but 
the  majority  being  against  it,  produced  a  split  in  the  train,owing  to  which 
10  wagons  left  us  and  drove  on,  leaving  seven  wagons  behind  This  w 


JOtTRNAl,    -V 


•onsidf>r  no  detriment,  although    the  men  belonging  to  those  wagons  that 
left  us  are  all  of  them   whole-hearted,  noble-souled   companions.     Small 
trains  travel  faster  than  lar^-r  ones,  and  the  difficulty  of  finding  good  c 
pin..-  grounds  for  a  smalltrain  is  not  so  great  as  for  alarge  one.     NN  •  '  \MT 
iorry"to  part  with  tlu-in,  but  we   parted  in  friendship   and  peace,   as    f 
ought  t->  do  on  this  journey.     Some  of  them  wish  to  travel  \ 
mie,  which  is  330  miles  from  Fort  Kcarncy.before  stopping,  but  we  wish  to 
rest  our  horses  one  day  in  every  seven,  and  are  determined  whenever  we 
can  find  o-rass  to  make  that  day    the   Sabbath.     We  are   all   very   busy 
keeping  the  Sabbath.,  which  is   dune  here  after  this  fashion :     »xerci« 
of  the  morniag,  shaving  and   cleaning  \\ith   a  plunge  bath  in  the  Flatte 
river.     Forenoon,  setting  wagon  tire,  repairing  wagons.     Afternoon,  si 
incr  hors-:s,  washing  clothes'  .fee.  Arc.     K  veiling,  rest— which  is  ad  the  tun 
we  "ct  to  rest.     Our  stopping  days  are  no  resting  days  to  us,  but  our  hor- 
ses need  it,— they  look  well  now,  and  we  mean  to  keep  them  looking  wel. 
if  we  c'iii.     Wo  have  throe  blacksmiths  in  our  train,  and  one  wagon  ma 
leer.     We   set  the  tire  on  Ainsly's  wagon  this  morning  in  a  manner  that 
would  be  now  10  blacksmiths  in  the  States.     Not  having   any    means 
weldia"  tin-,  we  took  them  off  from  the  wheels,  took  all  the  felloes  oil,  and 
then  put  leather  cottrells  or  rings  on  the  spokes  thereby  raising  the  shou  - 
der  of  the  spoke  and  enlarging  the  -circle  of  the  wheel,  then  put  the  ft 
Iocs  on  ao-ain,  and  then   heated  the  tire,  and  set  it  as  tignt  as 
blacksmith  could  do,  with  a  forge  and  bellows  to  cut  and  weld  the  ties 
This  valley  is  lined  with  buffalo  bones  and  carcasses,  their  skulls  he  about 
in  every  direction.     One.  of  our  men  found  18  yesterday  in  one  spot  at  tb 
foot  of  a  hi'rh  bluff.     They  were  probably   driven    over  the  blurt  by  t 
Indians.     We  saw  no  buffalo  to-day,  although  there  were  plenty  ot  signs 
thev  ann.-ar  to  come  down  to  the  river  at  night  to  get  water,  and  go  back 
to  the  plains  in  the  morning.  The  bottom  is  about  two  miles  wide  here.and 
on  tht>  'bluffs  may  be  found  some  few  scattering  cedars.     Litwiler  killed  a 
noble-  bu.-k  to-dav.     Itsh-.'.rns  were  in  the  velvet,   and  the  meat  good.     H 
made  us  plenty  of  meat  for  the  whole  company,  and  some  to  spare. 
beaver  dam  at  this  place. 

"7th      We  stvuck  our  tents  again  this  morning  and  started.     A\  e_  have 
had  a  very  cold  duv,  so  mu.-.h  so  that  we  needed  great  coats  and  mittens. 
and  I  have  suffered  more  with  cold  than  on  any  day  since  I  started 
had  a  smart  shower  in  the  morning,  which  was  welcome.     Hie  country  o 
this  day's  drive  looks  like  a  huge  buffalo  pasture,  the  ground  being  cov- 
ered with  buffalo  chips  like  a  farm-yard.     The  emigrants  before  us  have 
been  slaughtering  them  without  mercy.     We  counted  eight  fresh L  slaugh- 
tered ones  within  one  mile  distance.     We  were  informed  to-day  that  * 
Pike  &  Strother's  train  lost  25  mules  and  horses  in  a  stampede  last  night 
We  crossed  the  south  fork  of  the  Plattc  this  afternoon.     It  is  about  thr* 
fourths  of  a  mile  wide  here,  whl  h  is  the  south  or  lower  ford,  but  we  had 
to  travel  in  the  river  at  least  a  mile  and  a  half,  the  wind  and  current  swee- 
pimr  us  dow;i  the  river,  so  that  our  course  lay   in  the  form  of  a  half  circle. 
Th*  water  was  about  up  to  our  wagon  boies,  one   ol  th-rn  taking  water 

,  ruling  is  one  oi  the  exciting  scenes  of  this  journey,   i 
we  crossed,  tb  :th  wagon?,  men,  mules  and  horses,  ev 

tonding  quite  across  thr  river      One  -f  Out  wHorjns  got  Stuck  in  th« 


*(J  JOURNAL,    MAY     18.M/. 

sand  which  frightened  the  horses,  but  frightened  the  driver  more.     1 
on  horse  back  myself,  I  rode  back  to  assist  the  driver,  but  in  our  endeav- 
ors to  start  the  wagon  we  had  our  doubletree  broken,  owing  to  which  ac- 
cident I  had  to  go  ashore  and  send  back  a  spare  team  to  help  thorn  out.but 
before  the  team  reached  the  wagon,  and  within  a  few  minutes  after  I  had 
reached  the  shore,  the  driver  came  ashore,  bearing  in  hand  a  tin  lantern, 
that  being  (in  his  fright)  the  only  thing  which  he  could  find  of  value,  to 
save  out  of  the  drowned  wagon,  which,   us  he  supposed,  would  be  soon 
buried  in  the  quick-sand.     However,  after  awhile,  the  wagon  came  safely 
ashore,  when  the  driver  had  the  satisfaction  of  depositing  his  tin  lantern  in 
a  place  of  safety  again  in   o:ic   of  the  boxes  in  the  wagon.     He  did  not 
rehsh  much  being  said  after  that  about  crossing  the   Platte,  it  was  a  disa 
greeable  subject,  decidedly.    Some  of  the  teams  were  towed  through  the 
river  with  long  ropes,  with  20  or  30  men  dragging  at  them  ahead  of  the 
mules  and  horses,  up  to  their  middles  in  the  water.     One  man  was  riding 
horseback  when  his  horse  stumbled  off  from  a  sand  bar  into  deep  water] 
and  horse  and  rider  both  went  out  of  sight;  a  dozen  of  us  started  immedi- 
ately for  him,  but  before  we  had  got  to  him,  horse  and  rider  both  came  up, 
the  horse  making  for  the  shore,  and  the   man  fur  the  nearest  sand  bar.— 
The  man  lost  his  rifle  and  hat,  which  grieved  him  a  great  deal;  the  horse 
lost  his  rider,  which  he  did  not  seem  to  tak,>  to  heart  at  all.     We    drove 
about  two  miles  after  crossing  and  camped  on  the  bottom,  with  no  fuel  but 
buffalo  chips.     A  stampede  took  place  about  sunset,  of  150  head  of  hor- 
ses, mules  and  oxen,  which  was  the  largest  stampede  that  we  have   seen 
or  heard  of.     We  were  just   cooking  our  supper.     Our  horses  were   qui- 
etly grazing  around  the   camp;  the  men  gathering  buffalo  chips  for  th<> 
night,  or  idly  lounging  about  the  fires,  talking  and  smoking,  and  taking  as 
much  comfort  as  possible  after  our  hard  day's  work,   when  down  the  river 
came  a  sound.as  of  distant  thunder,yet  more  terrible  to  the  ears  of  the  prac- 
ticed emigrant  on  the  plains ;  instantly  every  man  was  on  his  feet  listening  to 
the  approaching  sounds  faintly  above  the  ncise  could  be  heard  the  cry  of 
stampede!  stampede!  and  a   dark  mass  enveloped  in  the  dust  could  be 
seen  moving  down  upon  us  with   the  speed  of  the  Avind.     Instantly  eve- 
ry man  sprang  for  the  horses,  knowing  too  well  that  if  they  were  not  got 
inside  of   the  correll  of  wagons,  before  that  moving   mr.ss   of  terror    and 
phrenzy  came  up  to  them  they  were  lost.     The  cooks  threw  down   their 
frying  pans,  the  men  their  pipes,  and  bags  of  buffalo  chips,  and  the  whole 
plain  looked  more  like  bedlam  broke  loose  than  a  quiet  camping  ground : 
some  shouted  and  belabored  the  poor  beasts, who  already  began  to  feel  the 
infection,  others  lugged  away  at  the  longlariets  of  their  mules  who  dog- 
ged and  sullen,  threw   themselves  on  their  reserved  rights,  and  braced 
back  on  all  fours  with  their  long  ears  turned  back  and  their   eyes  half 
closed,  seemed  to  say  to  the  unhappy  knights  who  were  so  energetically 
tugging  them  along,  no  you  don't — you  can't  come  it,  if  you  do,  °just  let 
us  know,  but  in  they  had  to  go,  in  spite  of  their  resolution  and  firmness. 
During  this  time, which  occupied  less  space  than  I  have  been  in  recording 
it,  the  infuriated  mass  kept  rushing  down  towards  us,  sweeping  everything 
of  stock  kind  .along  with  them  that  came  in  their  way.     The  matter  be- 
gan to  look  serious  for  us,  although  we  had  succeeded  in  getting  all  of  our 
stock  within  the  circle  of  our  wagons,  when  suddenly,  when  within  a  quar- 


ter  of  a  mile  of  us  they  took  a  turn  and  went  dashing  over  the  hills  like  a 
torrent,  and  a  few  minutes  after  them  went  30  or  40  men  on  horses  wni 
they  had  secured,  riding  madly  en  to  keep  in  sight  of  the  terrified  ani- 
mals; on  went  the  mass,   and  on   went  the  riders,    over   hill  and   gul 
through  the    darkness  of  night  in  their  "break-neck"    career,  until  1 
cametothe  North  Fork  of  the  Platte,  when  fortune  favored  the  riders, 
for  the  stampede  took  down  the  river  towards  the  forks  of  the  two  nvi 
Excitement  reigned  through  evory  camp  that  night.     Many  had 
their  stock,  their  sole  dependence  for  the  prosecution  of  their  J°urn.ey>  O1 
even  their  safe  return  to  the  States.     Families,  men,  women  and  child 
thrown  out  in  the  wilderness  hundreds  of  miles  from  civilized  beings, ^and 
their  main  hope  ^ne.     "Would   those  in   pursuit  recover  the  horses 
would  thev  dash  on  over  those  boundless  plains  in  the  frenzy  of  fear  grow- 
ino-  more  frantic  as  they  proceeded,  as  many  had  before  them,  until  ni 
tare  could   stand  no  more,  and  then  drop  dead  in  their  tracks . 
questions  were  often  asked,  and  many  were  the  tearful    eyes   that  night 
that  sought  without  avail  rest  and  sleep.  All  night  long  the  darkness  was 
rendered  hideous  bv  the  blowing  of  horns,  firing  of  guns,  and  the  shout- 
ing of  men  to  warn",   if  perchance  any  straggler  from  the  pursuing  party 
should    be   on  his  return,    of  the  whereabouts  of  the   camp    and  few 
were  the  eyes  in  those  camps  through  which  the  stampede  had  taken  i 
course  that  closed  in  sleep  that  night.     The   stampede  continued   down 
the  river  until  it  was  stopped  by  the   two  rivers    coming  together,  wnict 
oncchavino-  checked  their  mad  career,  they  were  soon  surrounded  by  t* 
pursuers  ami  safely  secured,  with    the  exception  of  one  horse,  which  had 
broken  his  neck.   "Reader,  if  you  wish  to  realize  all  the  anxiety  and  hor- 
ror of  a  stamoode,  go  out.  in  the  plains  hundreds  of  miles  from  help  where 
°ouf  h^s?are  'as  necessary  I  your  safety  as  the  ^  *»»»"** 
at  sea     See  amovino-  body  of  stock  coming  down  towards  your  horses 
snortino-.  neighing, bellowing  and  braying,  enveloped  in  a  perfect  cloud  of 
dust  making0 the°carth  tremble  under  their  feet:  witness   the    distended 
nostril    the    o-listenino-    eye,  and  the  fierce   snort  and  neigh  of  your  own 
horse  as  you  cling  to  him  L  dear  life,  and  as  he  kicks  and  £•£•»»• 
stampede   approaches,  and  the  madness  grows  upon  him  to  beak  from 
you  and  join  them  in  their  mad  rareer-go  out  and  see  and  feel  all  these 
things,  when  perhaps  your  life  hangs  upon  the  result,  and  then  yo 
have  some  idea  of  a  stampede;  but  otherwise  you  cannot         20  miles 

28th.     We  traveled  up  the  south  Fork  about  eight  miles,  when  we  left 
the  river  and   crossed  the  dividing  ridge    between  the  two  forks  t< 
north  branch  of  the  Platte.  The  country  is  barren  <™dsandy  with  no  grass 
We  saw  several  antelope,  and  had  one  or  two  good  chases  for  them,   but 
,. ,  12  miles. 

1  29th.geWc  were  compelled  to  ascend  the  bluffs  to-day  and  travel  ' 
miles  without  water.     Three  buffalo  came  running  towards  our  train 
day,    and  threatened   to  run  through  the  tram,  but  turned  their  course 
when  within  about  20  rods  of  us.     Col  Sublet  shot  two  bullets  through 
one  of  them  from  his  double  shooter  but  did  not  bring  him  down.      Mt- 
willer   afterwards  killed    a  bull      We  : topped    four  hours    aftei •  *  e  got 
to  the  river  to  get  in  the  meat.     It  wa:,  excellent,  with  *****&"" 
havincr  a  strong  flavor  of  musk      It  will  supply  our  whole  tram  for  a  v 


,    MAY     ' 


beside*  h-aung  enough  for  40  men.     We  have  tad    groat  quantities  of 
wagon*  irons  crams  and  other  property  thrown  away,  on  the    oad  tS -day 

™,       w°f  buffal°'  aUtel°Pe  and  'volves  "re,  soon  now.         24  miles 
irly  start  this   morning,  and  readied  „ 


ind  some  tree-:;  growing,  which  were  nc,cuii.e  10 
x»c  *uau  irum  the  upper  ford  on  the  South  Fork,  comes  in  at 

./.     Camped  early  and  found  plenty  of  grass,  with  thousands  of 

ind  mules  feeding  upon  it.     An  old  Frenchman  with  a  party 
dmns,  is  camped  near  us,  trading  with  the  emigrants.     We 
3d  several  good  springsof  water  to-day.  The  Bluife  here  are  rnost- 
y  limestone,  with  a  lew  cedar  trees  growing  upon  them ;  back  of  this  they 
have  been  mostly  sand  bluffs.     We  iind  alkali  every  day  now.     22  miles.  * 
st.     We  had  a  heavy  shower  last  night,  a  perfect  deluge,  but  it  was 
needed  for  the  country. was  very  dry.     We  hare  passed  several   Indian 
vil  ages  to-day,  belonging  to  the  Yanktaw  Sioux.     One  villas  had  about 
forty  lodges  in  it.     The  Sioux  are  a  noble  race  and  very  friendly  and  ap- 
jear  to  be  as  much  civilized  as  their  neighbors  near  the  settlement,  that  is 
they  know  how  to  beg  to  perfection.     They  lately  had  a   fight   with    the 
awnees,  in  which  they  were  victorious,   and  took  a  great  many   ponies 
which  are  now  feeding  around  the  wigwams.     One  of  them  came  in  with 
a  pony  loaded  with  buffalo  meat    while  I   was  in  their    wigwam.     I    saw 
some  Indian  burials,  to-day.     They  burr  on  a   platform  ra"     '   ' 
jround,  on  poles  about  eight  feet  high. "  The  poles  are  set  • 
of  a  pyramid,  and  are  fastened  together  at  the  top.  where    also  is    buna 
the  medicine  bag  of  the  chief.     The  body  is    wrapped  in     buflalo    robe? 
and  a  cloth  made  of  bark,  enclosing  also  a  quantity  of  buffalo    meat  and 
other  provisions  to  last  him  on  hk  journey  to  the  spirit  land,  and  his  arrows 
to  shoot  with  en  the  way.     When  all  the  preparation  is  complete,  the  body 
is  laid  upon  the  platform,  to  moulder  or  dry  up  as  may  be,  in  the  sun,  un 
Ml  the  robes  get  off  when  the  ravens  may  linish  it.     This  one  that  I  went 
to  see  to-day,  sm-.jit  so  bad  that  I  could  not  approach  very  near  to  it  with- 
out  hoidmg  my  nose,  aad  then  it  was    rery  oiicnsive.     It  was  a  chief  who 
had  been  killed  m  the  recent  fight  with  the  Pawnees. 

June  Yrf.    We  had  more  rain  lust  night.  Passed  several  snrincrs  to-day 
and  saw  some  scattering  trees  on  the  bluffs.     We  now  find  .oreat    quanti- 
ties of  lizards;  they  are  small,  being  about  throe  inches  long,    and    verv 
sprightly  and  active  little  things,  and  the  boys  have  much  fun  in  chasing 
them      We  passed  some  more  Sioux  and  Chienes  wigwams  to-day ;  or  as 
the  Indians  themselves  pronounce  it,  Siuk.     We    had  a  heavy  wind-«*juall 
;  the  afternoon,  with  some  run.     Country  still    barren,    with    but    little 
raw.     We  camped  at  night  in  sight  of  the   famous  Chimney  Rock;  this 
3CJUS  quite  a  curiosity.     It  is  composed  of  soft  sand  stone      It  is  about 
one  hundred  and  twenty  paces  around  it  at  the  base,  and  about    as  hicrh 
as  tfunkcr  s  Hill  monument,  and  looks  very  much  like  it  at  a  distarce    ^It 
an  be  seen  at  a  distance  of  thir.ty  or  forty    miles.     We    travelled  one  day 
and  a  iKdf  after  we  came  in  sight  of  it,  before  we  came  opposite  to  it.     It 
i  by  the  French  traders  to  have  been  much  higher  than  at    present 
but  is  wearing  away  every  yenr  hy  the  action  of  the  elemeUs.  The  Court' 

tonTI;1     TKUntybUildingSared^  irom    our    Damping  ground 

-night.     Hnyare  agroapofsand  ife,  resembling  the 


JOURNAL  MAY   1850. 

which  they  are  named  from,  and  are  curiosities  worth  seeing.     They  arc 
about  twenty  miles  fr.,m  us,  perhaps  more,  but  they  look  as  if   they 
not  three  miles  distant.     All  distances  here  are  deceptive  the  eye  reac 
ly  taking  in  obj,-rts  at  a  distance  of  twenty  or   thirty   miles,  the  atafl 

phere  being  so  clear. 

2d      Sundav      L -»id  over  to-day,  to  air  our  loads  and  rest  our  teams.— 
\.U  the  wajrons  but  Litwlers  and  mess  left  us  to-day,   being-   anxious  t 
jret  alon-  °We  shaii  probnt.lv  overtake  them  at  St.  Laring,  which  is  about 
Hinetv  mihs  fr-.m  this  place.  '  The  weather  is  pleasant  and  warm  with 
fair  chance  for  grass.     Fuller  n.r.d  J.  Ingalls   undertook   to   go   to 
House  Rock  this  j.ficrnoon,  which  looks  t->  be  baf  a  few  miles  from   its, 
but  after  travclm-  about  twelve  milos  they  tho«fct  it  looked  quite  ES  far 
as  when  they  started,  and   they   turned  back ;  «hey  got  into   the  camp 
about  eleven  o'clock  at  night  * 

3d  Drove  twenty-nve  miles,  und  passed  the_  Chimney  Rock.  \V  e 
camped  about  two  miles  back  from  the  river  on  4he  bottom,  and  about 
four  miles  from  a  hr^e  bluff  resembling  the  formation  which  we  named 
Fort  Whiter,  from  its  white  appearance.  Seven/of  the  boys  went  ou 
on  a  wild  goose  chase  to  the  bluffs  for  wood,  there  being  af  ew  « 
ceda-s  in  sight  which  appeared  to  be  not  over Iwo  miles  distant;  hey 
started  about  four  P.  M.  andgot  back  atten  o'clo^t  n.ght  Prf  ^vf  fa' 
tirrued  with  no  fuel,  being  unable  to  reach  the  cedars. 

%  *    Had  a  heav'y  raiuVt  night,  and  got  a  late  start  but  drove  thirty 
miles  and  caught  up  with  the  rest  of  our  company  who  left  us  on  Sunda 
We  passed  Robadove's  trading  post,  at  Scott'*,  bluffs  and  camped   about 
two  miles  from  it  at  a  spring  of  clear  cold  wattr  gfebing  ««*«£««* 
This  ought  to  be  called  the  Rock  of  Horeb,  situjted  as  it  is  m  ad 
land.     Our  road  to-day  led  back  from  the  mer.ajl  we  have  had  a  scarcity 
of  water  for  our  horses.  /\  . 

We  have  had  a  dry,  hot  day,  with  great  seafcif.of  grass.    The  country 
is  crettingmore  barren.  Found  an  indifteren^camying  ground. 

6th.  Passed  another  French  trading  pSst  to-day  with  its .usual  accon 
paniment  of  Indian  wigwams.  Litwiler  swaped/horses  with  an  o d  In^ 
dian  who  took  a  fancy^to  his  horse  because  \lfy  white,  and  Ins  squaw 
wanted  it,  he  said.  We  reached  Fort  Laramie'.atfout four  o clod i  P.  M., 
forded  thi  Laramie  rjver,  and  camped  about  two  piles  from  th  fort  or i  the 
bluff,  the  authorities  at  the  Fort  prohibiting  emigrants  from  camping  ioe, 

th7thalleRema5ned  this  day  at  the  camping  ground  to  write  home,  tbag ;;' 
being  a  post  office  at  the  Forfe.  There  are  a  great  many  wagons 
this8point  by  many  taking  to  packing.  Thousands  of  dollars  wo^d  t, 
property  being  thrown  away,  but  anything  w,e  wish  to  buy,  we ,  h  deep 
payPdouble  price  for.  Fort  Laramie  is  situated^  the  junction  of  hMiles. 
amie  and  Platte  rivers,  and  surrounded.by  high  bluffs,  being  ^f"*** 
of  the  Black  Hills.  It  is  630  miles  from  St  Joseph,  and  500  from  a« i  no« 
cil  Bluffs.  The  fort  is  built  mostly  of  adobies,or  un  burnt  brick  and  res<.  Huge 

Fort  Kearney.     The  garrison  consists  of  about  300  men  at  this  triers  the 

The  CouncilBluffs  road  comes  in  at  this  place  and  the  soldiers  1 

rv  across  the  Platte  by  which  they  make  conftderable  money  ouUid  to  r> 

•  funs,     n 

•road  and 


JOLKNAL,  JUM;  ib.M'. 

Illl'll       I         M  n/),l  !•-(.,  ../I      rm^..      :,,»«     ,.      r.-_,l      t  1 

>  buy  a  library   fur  the 
;  ,«.,«, ^vv-iuill  near  the  fort,  aUhough 
the  fort  lack  Hllls> sotne  10  miles  distant  from 

8th.  Struck  our  tents  this  morning  anigtartcd  on  the  Black  Hills  road 
The  majority  of  the  teams  have  gone  upWhe  Piatte  bottoms      iVp   h-uv 

found    CtnnA       ^-oco      tn.A-.lv       <lKlln/l.-in/»n    r,f    ™^J    U      (Y    1 

n-ood  buihilo   grass,  the  best  we 
.  liles  from  the  fort;  saw  a  flock 

01  mountain  sheep,  but  they  were  so  wild  that  we  could  not  get  a  shot  n 
them.     Saw  an  antelope— had  a  grand  chase  fur  him,  but  he  eluded  ^ 
and  got  away.     We  camped  at  night  at  a  beautiful  stream  of  water  in  a 
romantic  valley,  with  plenty  of  wood  and  water.    One  of  Loyd's  men  shot 
a  sage  hen  which  is  a  'species  of  grouse  somewhat  larger  than  a  prairie 
hon.     Ike  flesh  of  the>ige  hen  is  excellent  cavory  eating     We  are  now 
in  the  sage  country  ;  it  resembles  our  cultivated  sao-C)  but  is  more  bitter 
and  grows  about  two  feet  high;  also  great  abundance  of  prickly  pear  the' 
ground  being  sometimes  covered  for  acres  in  one  bed.  '  The  prickly  pear 
covers  the  ground  here*  to  that  extent  that  we  are  frequently  compelled  to 
lear  away  with  our  spades  space  to  erect  our  tents,  it  not  bein-  particu- 
larly agreeable  to  the  seat  of  honor  to  sit  down  ou  the  long  sharp  thorns 
Inis  must  be  a  healthy  country.although  a  barren  cold  one,  being  constaut- 
7  mi?lg  ^          T'  Thl>h  <*"  be  seen  ut  a11  times  in  the  y^r.     26  miles. 
ETti  ThY°ad         m°rQing  led  UP  thc  valkT  of  the  creek  about  sk 
mles,  then  struck   across  to  another  creek  eight  .miles;  after  bavin*  the 
creek  we  found  a  spnng  of  good  water;  five  miles  from  this  spring  we 
came  to   Horse  Creek.     Here'  were   great   numbers  camped,  beino-  just 
seventeen  miles  to  the  next  water,  with  but  little  -rass  on  the  route     The 
latter  part  of  the  day's 'drive  has  been  rough  and  .sandy.     We  passed  two 
men  on  the  creek  makiiw  pack  saddles.     They  had  given  away  their  wa*. 
ons  and  thrown  away  tlfeir  other  pn-nerty.     Wagons,  harness,  stoves  an&d 
all  kinds  of  property  we  find  strewn  along  the  road  now.     We  had  a  tre- 
nendous  hail  storm  this  afternoon.     The  hail  fell  two  inches  deep    some 
of  the  pieces  of  which  were  an  inch  in  diameter.    Many  who  were  exposed 
had  their  lips  and  cheeks  cut  through  by  the  hail.    The  storm  beat  our 
tents  down,  and  we  Bad  to 'crawl  under  the  wagons  for  shelter  from  its 
fury.  ^  We  got  up  our  tents  again  after  the  storm  passed  over,  but  had  to 
sleep  m  three  inches  depth  of  mud  through  the  nic/ht.  20  mile* 

the-  1(7Vn  Wf  W6£  C^mped  Iast  r"Sht  opposite  Laramie's  Peak,  distant 
'he  i?Ut  miles'  We  first  saw  the  Peak  at  a  distance  ^  ^0  miles.  It  K 
the^^  rOVne-d  Wi?  Sn°W>  Wbich  m;ikes  ifc  a  Pr^incnt  object  We 
grass.  eek  ab°Ut  Doon-  Have  had  a  ]iilly  road  to-day. and 

one  huith'  pamPfd, last  niSht  at  the  ^ed  Stone  Quarries.  Here  we  found 
as  BunJu  beautlju1'  Pure  specimens  of  white  free  stone.  It  was  soft  and 
/•an  be  •  °Ut  y  Wlth  a  kcife-  The  real  free  stone  is  e(l"ally  soft  when 
and  a  1-  C,?meS  °Ut  °f  the  ^uarry-  We  have  had  muddy  roads  to-day,  and 
is  said  ?n  i  6n  country  to  travel  through,  with  but  little  grass.  Passed 
but  is  w  j,!'  ,  f c  we  had  another  severe  hail  storm.  Saw  a  fine  horse 
House  i  Jen  ft  behind  to'day-  His  feet  had  Become  injured  for  want 
to-night.66'  22  mil€s- 


JOURNAL,    JUNE    1850.  25 

12th.  We  saw  a  good  vein  of  coal  to-day,  about  ten  inches  thick.  It 
was  on  the  bank  of  the  Platte  river,  where  the  water  had  washed  the 
bank  away.  I  examined  it,  and  found  it  of  good  quality.  A  camp  near 
us  lost  twenty-six  horses  anjft  one  mule  last  night,  by  a  stampede.  We 
have  heard  to-day  that  they  Imve  found  sixteen  of  the  horses,  and  mule. 
Country  barren,  and  grass  poor.  Passed  the  Deer  Creek  to-day,  which  is 
a  beautiful  stream,  with  cotton  wood  trees  growing  on  its  banks.  Fuller 
and  Ingalls  caught  a  mess  of  small  fish  out  of  it.  22  miles. 

13th.  Reached  the  Upper  Platte  ferry  about  noon.  We  found 
four  boats,  two  belonging  to  the  Mormons,  and  two  to  a  St.  Louis  company. 
The  charge  for  crossing  is  four  dollars  per  wagon,  and  50  cents  for  ahorse 
or  mule.  The  celebrated  Kit  Carson  is  here  with  a  drove  of  horses  and 
mules  for  sale.  I  did  not  see  him,  he  being  out  on  the  hills  with  stock.— 
The  country  is  very  barren  here,  the  Black  Hills  reaching  down  within  a 
few  miles  of  the  river,  and  covered  with  snow.  Crossed  the  river  and 
camped  on  a  barren  hill-side  without  grass,  which  was  the  best  spot  that 
we  could  find.  15  miles. 

14th.  To-day's  drive  has  been  over  a  desert  bearing  nothing 
but  wild  sage,  and  crickets  which  cover  the  ground,  and  seem 
to  get  as  fat  as  it  if  they  had  something  to  eat.  They  were  so  nu- 
merous that  we  could  -not  step  without  crushing  some  of  them.  Passed 
an  alkali  spring  and  pond  12  miles  from  the  ferry ;  also  the  Willow  Springs, 
28  miles  from  the  river.  Found  good  water  at  the  Willow  Springs,  but 
no  grass.  Camped  on  Prospect  Hill  in  full  v 
Peaks  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  have  hi 
drive,  with  san  dy  road.  30  mile.s- 

15th.    Very  cold  day;  have  to  wear  our  overcoats  and  mittens.  Rained 
all  night  and  forenoon,  with  a  right  smart  chance  of  a  snow  storm.     After 
the  snow  storm  had  blown  out  we  had  one  of  the  most  splendid  views 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains  that  the  mind  could  conceive.  They  were  clothed 
with  pure  white  snow  from  base  to  summit,  gigantic  specimens  of  Nature's 
monuments.     Passed    some    small  creeks  to-day  furnishing  some   good 
water ;  also  several  alkali  lakes  and  swamps.     Thousands  of  wagon  loads 
of  pure  saleratus  and  pearlash  could  be  got  here.     The  crusting  over  some 
of  the  swamps  readily  supported  a  man  walking  upon  it     We  gathered 
some  for  use  and  found  it  much  stronger  than  the  manufactured  article, 
but  think  it  contains  some  poisonous  property,  as  the  bread  made  of  it  af- 
fected us  disagreeably.     I  should  advise  all  to  observe  caution  in  using  it 
Passed  the  Independence  Rock,  which  is  a  huge  mass  of  granite  covered 
with  the  names  of  thousands  who  have   gone  before  us.     Crossed  the 
Sweet  Water  river,  which  is  about  10  rods  wide,  and  three  feet  deep  at 
the  ford,  and  camped  one  mile  from  the  crossing. 

Sunday.  16th.  Moved  our  camp  up  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain 
where  we  found  a  good  spring  of  water  and  some  grass.  We  are  now 
fairly  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  a  ragged  looking  country  it  re.  Huge 
piles  of  granite  reared  upon  each  other,  covered  with  snow  renders  the 
prospect  picturesque,  but  cheerless.  Weather  cold  and  windy. 

17th.    Passed  the  Devil's  gate,  a  narrow  chasm  in  the  rock,  said  to 
about  four  hundred  feet  deep,  through  which  the  Sweet  Water  runs, 
resembles  the  dells  on  the  Wisconsin  river.     Have  had  a  sandy  road 


JOURNAL,   JUNK    1850. 

poor  grass.  Bought  a  light  wagon  and  harness  this  evening  for  10  dollar* 
baw  several  heavy  wagon*  that  had  been  left  on  the  road,  owing  to  the 

18th,  Crossed  the  Sweet  Water  three  times  to-day.  Got  in  with  a 
train  of  ox  wagons  which  hindered  us  so  much  that  we  turned  out  and 
camped  at  3  o'clock,  P.  M.  Found  good  grass  at  camp,  but  have  had 
sandy  roads  and  no  grass  on  the  drive.  Left  our  heavy  wagon,  for  the 
good  of  other  comers,  who  will  probably  burn  it.  Ice  made  last  night  half 
an  inch  in  thickness. 

19th.  Started  at  half  past  three  o'clock  this  morning,  and  passed  all 
the  01  trains  in  their  camp  ground.the  Sweet  Water,  four  miles  from  can 
from  which  crossing  we  will  have  16  miles  to  travel  without  water  or  grass 
Saw  several  dead  oxen  along  the  16  miles,  which  were  killed  by  alkali.— 
Crossed  the  Sweet  Water  again — passed  one  tent  on  the  river  of  a  man 
and  his  wife,  the  man  down  with  the  mountain  fever.  Roads  sandy  and 
grass  poor.  We  overtook  the  balance  of  our  company,  who  left  us  last 
Sunday,  again  to-day.  This  is  the  second  time  they  have  left  us,  and  we 
have  overtaken  them  within  three  days  afterwards,  which  shows  pretty 
conclusively,!  think,  that  nothing  is  gained  by  driving  Sundays.  2  8  miles. 
20th.  Got  up  into  the  region  of  snow  to-day,  and  have  passed  several 
snow  banks  alongside  of  the  road  in  the  ravines.  Road  better,  but  no 
grass  to  speak  of.  We  passed  the  10  wagons  to-day  which  left  us  on  the 


down  with  the  mountain  fever.  Crossed  a  branch  of  the  Sweet  Water  and 
the  Willow  Creek,  and  camped  about  a  mile  from  the  latter.  We  passed 
to-day  a  grave  made  yesterday  of  a  man  found  with  his  throat  cut  He 
had  in  his  hand  when  found,  a  jack  knife,  and  near  him  was  found  a 
scanty  supply  of  provisions.  He  had  committed  suicide.  It  was  evident 
that  he  was  a  foot  packer,  and  had  probably  become  depressed  by  his  jour- 
ney and  the  gloomy  prospect  of  his  not  being  able  to  get  through  his 
long  journey  with  his  slender  supply  of  provisions.  Poor  fellow;  he  had 
become  discouraged  in  prosecuting  one  long  journey,  and  had  entered  up- 
on another  longer  journey,  with,  perhaps,  less  preparation  than  upon  the 
hrst  His  name  was  not  known.  20  miles. 

21st.    We  lost  pur  horses  this  morning,  which  hindered  us  some  time, 


for  the  last  time;  10  miles  from  the  crossing  is  the  summit  of  the  Rocky 
mountains  at  the  South  Pass,  which  we  reached  at  noon.  It  /s  known  by 
t*o  conical  shaped  mounds  or  hills,  about  60  feet  high.  No  one  would 
ver  suspect  this  to  be  the  summit,  the  country  is  so  level,  and  the  as 
:ent  of  the  whole  distance  is  so  gradual.  Three  miles  from  the  summit 
we  reached  the  Pacific  Springs,  on«  of  the  heads  of  the  Colorado  river  of 
the  CrUlf  of  California.  Camped  at  the  springs  over  night,  found  plenty 
of  grass,  but  the  swamps  are  very  miry.  At  this  place  the  California 
impress  mail  stops  to  take  letters  back  to  the  States  for  the  emigrants.— 
Ihe  DHCP.  nf»amrKn~  v.o/,1,.  „  !„*<  ,_  :_  r/-»  _  _  mi *i -.«,  ..  to 


•   .  &  — •  "  ^^"bo.    JLUI>  vbu^j   AW   neuruiJB  oaiiie 

p  to-night  and  camped  with  us.     They  have   two  more  men  down  with 
ever,  making  16  in  all.    They  intend  going  the  Salt  Lake  route  from 
here,but  we  shall  go  the  Sublett  cut-off.  1 7  miles. 


JOURNAL,  JUKE  1850. 

22cl  Left  early  this  morning  and  reached  the  Big  Sandy  river  at 
night.  We  had  no  water  the  first  25  miles  excepting  from  one  small 
brackish  creek.  Passed  the  forks  of  the  Salt  Lake  and  Sublett  cut-off, 
roads  14  miles  from  the  Springs.  The  right  hand  road,  the  Sublett  cut-off, 
the  left,  Fort  Bridges  and  Salt  Lake.  The  road  along  this  day's  drive 
has  shown  plenty  of  the  evil  effects  of  want  of  grass,  water,  &c.,  in  the 
numerous  skeletons  of  stock  left  last  year  along  the  road.  The  country  is 
barren  deserts,  destitute  of  grass,  and  covered  with  wild  sage.  We  found^ 
plenty  of  grass  towards  the  mountains  about  three  miles  from  the  river. — ' 
We  have  had  a  hot  day,  although  the  mountains,  as  far  as  we  can  see  are 
covered  with  snow.  31  miles. 

23d.  Sunday.  Remained  on  the  Big  Sandy  to-day.  Great  numbers 
are  camped  here  intending  to  cross  the  Big  Sandy  and  Green  River  des- 
ert to-night.  One  of  our  company  Thos.~Trimble,  was  taken  sick  yester- 
day with  mountain  fever;  by  my  advice  he  was  brought  along  by  his  part- 
ner, Col.  Sublett,  who  ha'  intended  to  remain  back  with  him.  He  is  very 
much  better  to-day,  which  inclines  me  to  think  that  it  would  be  better  in 
most  cases  to  travel  with  the  patient  in  that  fever  than  to  lie  bye.  The 
Big  Sandy  is  about  10  rods  wide,  and  18  inches  deep  at  this  time,  and  is 
a  branch  of  the  Colorado  of  the  West. 

24th.    Started  last  night  at  five  o'clock,  P.  M.,  to  cross  the  desert, which 
is  not  so  much  a  desert  as  a  great  deal  of  the  country  over  which  we  have 
already   traveled.    It    is    destitute  of  water,  but  we  found  considerable 
grass.     Arrived  at  the  Green  River  about  noon,  having  traveled  all  night. 
only  stopping  occasionally  to  rest  our  teams.    The  distance,  as  measured 
by  a  roadometer  belonging  to  Dr.  Reed's  Pennsylvania  train,  was  41  miles, 
but  I  was  told  that  a  road  turned   off  25  miles  from  the  Sandy  which 
shortened  the  distance    to  Green  River,  to  30   miles.     It  was  but  little 
traveled,  owing  to  which  we  missed  it,     being   in  th  e   night  when  we 
passed  it.     Five  miles  from  the  river  we  had  a  bluff  to  descend  which  was 
300  feet  high,  and  almost  perpendicular,but  we  got  down  without  accident 
by  locking   both  hind  wheels   and  sliding.     Last  year  the  emigrants  were 
obliged  to  take  their  wagons  to  pieces  and  let  them  down  with  ropes.  We 
had  a  beautiful  moonlight  last  night  for  traveling.     Our  road  led  in  sight 
of  the  snow  mantled  peaks  of  the  Rocky   Mountains,  which  looked  with 
the  moon  beaming  upon  them,  like  mountains  of  molten   silver.     It  was 
one  of  the  most  magnificent  views  that  I  have  ever  witnessed,  and  richly 
repaid  me  for  the  loss  of  rest  in  crossing  the  desert  in  the  night  to  attain 
it.     We  brought  a  packer  across  the  desert  in  our  wagon  who  was  una- 
ble to  travel  on  horse  back,from  sickness ;  he  was  so  much  better  when  we 
reached  Green  River  that  he  concluded  to  try  his  horse  again.    Our  com- 
pany is  peculiarly  fortunate,  for  we  not  only  escape  sickness  ourselves,  but 
are  often  able  to  relieve   others  who  are  suffering.     We   crossed  Green 
River  in  a  ferry  boat  and  drove  seven  miles,  passing  a  creek  six  miles  from 
the  river,  and  camped  for  the  night.     Found  the  grass  poor,  but  good  wa- 
ter.    We  paid  $5  a  wagon  for  crossing,  and  swam  our  stock.    Green  Riv- 
er is  abut  15  rods  wide  at  the  ferry,  with  a  very  swift  current,  and  gener 
ally  deep.     Some  few  ford  above  the  ferry,  but  it  is   attended  with  great 
danger.     One  wagon  went  rolling  down  the  stream,  while  we  were  there. 
One  horse  belonging  to  it  was  drowned,  but  the  men  were  sated  by  the 


JoimxAr,.  JUNE  1850. 

ferryboat.     One  went  down  yesterday  in   the  same   manr 
stand  that  14  men  have  been  drowned'here  this  season  S  crc  sin, 
is  worth  here  $50  per  hundred  Ibs.     Green  River  presents   the 
mantie  scenery  m  the  world ;  it  is  deep  set  in  the  midst  of  Waft  tha° 
the  shapes  Of  towers,  castles,  cities,  and  of  every  imaginable  work  of  art 
The  bottom  is  smooth  at  intervals,  lookin^  like  a  kwn   «-if  h  t 
viewed  from  the  summit  of  the  bluffs  mfa^erin^firo^      lot'™,'?8 
silver  thread  winding  through  .green  lanlTpf,  whilst  "a  diSt 

snnJf     ^T-    K   S6en  tie.Peaksof  the  Rock .Mountains  covered  with 
snow,  from  their  bases  to  their  summits,  roaring    their  heads  far   into     * 

2L     O^thT  f,hln-m£  UP°n  ?em  Cau-8inS  th"m  to  S^ten  like  burnished 
sili ,  er.     On  tne  other  side  are  Green  River  mountains^  which,  though  let 
lofty,  are  quite  as  p.cturesque,  having  their  valleys  relieved  by  groves  of 
Dine,  the  green  contrasting  agreeably  with  the  "naked  brown  rocks  com 
Dosing  the  mountains.     It  is  out  of  mv  no™,  t.  ^  *  •      •  C°m" 


in  summer,  and  than  its  beauty 

r  rises  int"c  ww  R™  — 


V.ce  we  left  the  Pacific  Springs,  bit  cold  night,    '   ^   ^3^ 
a  ml    K          lm  1!!  °ampr  t0-day  to  recruit  our  horses.  A  man  died  ab 


r  ek   his  enn  r  o      e  mou     o 

!S    lE  eVS?"*Md  cauSht  f  fiuc  me^  of  salmon,  one  of  which  weighed 
They  are  an  excellent  kind  offish,  and  very  well  flavored?  the 

^W^  ^    W 

^rtt^USt7i!edagain]hium0rnin"ear^   Raveled  up  the  creek   about 

" 


We  h 


aCC°Untof  the  dust  which  ^"^suftbcati, 
gS  "^  thin  ffr°VeS  at  the  foot  of  the  T™  ™ 


1K 

doth   h;,,  !mb,ed  °ne  Snow  bank  20  feet  h%b.  "otwithsta, 

h  Sf  to  aWnVD         m  ,    6  °f  the  da-V  JS  S°  intcnae-    We  have  had  ^eep 
We  croS"d:8'ain  .^da7;  but  the  ""-st  "f  it  is  in  descending  tbeaJ- 

cwLSffin^T^TS8  StTeam'  "ame  UnknOWn'  Fuller  an^  I  Jonathan 
of  ifd  hns  In?,?  troui,.whlle  we  ™e  Wng  about  it.  W,  have  had  plenty 
^  Gr<         HH      ?;-  Tuy  "^oshonees  or  Snakes.   Camped  this  n./t 
t«I,  at  th«  Bear  Hr«d  -nrampinenf,  on  the  summit   betv^n 


JOURS AI.,    JUSE    1850. 


Green  River  and  Bear  River.     We  are  above  snow  yet.  and  have  found 


rrass  and  water. 

Ve  had  some  very  bad  hills  to  descend  to-df 


*u«*  *i,«  »mi<rran(a  of  last  year  had  to  lettneir 

ot  down  with  out  accident,  by  lockm 
Reached  Bear  River  about  3  P.  M.,  and  drov< 
Smith's  River,  and  camped.  At  this  point  the  tour   . 
Bear  River  between  two  high  points  or  curves  of  thej 
in  one  hundred  rods  from  the  first   to   the  las* 
deep  and  bad  to  cross:  the  water  coming  nearl 
bed      Bear  River  is  a  large  stream  about  150  yards  across  w  in  a   u 
swift  current,  and  runs  almost  directly  towards  the  north  at  t 
bottoms  furnish   an  abundance  of  luxuriant  nutritious   gras 
supply  all  the  stock  on  the  plains,  and  they  resemble  the  t 
rivers  of  Illinois.     We  find  plenty  of  Indians   on  this   river,  .t   bein 
head  quarters  of  the  Shoshonees  whose  lodges  may  be  seen  o 
posite  side  of  the  river.     They  have  an  abundance  of  1 
horses,  and  are  learning  to  talk  English  very  fast;  have  learned 
riffht  smart,  as  our  Missouri  friends  say,  but  dog  on  cm,  if  the*  c 
th&ey  will  steal.     They  are  a  little  better  looking  mdians  tl 
but  I  think  much  more  indolent  and  filthy. 

30th      Sunday.     We  remain    in  camp  to-day,  having  good  gr 
xvater    Some  of  the  boys  are  fishing  trout  and  have  caught  severs 
^  a  beautiful,  romantic  spot,  surrounded  by  high  steep  mountains,  ^or 
a  basin  three  or  four  miles  in  extent,  well  supplied  with  grass      We  a     . 

had  some  Indian  visitors    here  to-day;  one  £***~£"?*^2 

efore  he  eat  the  to. 


f  nature's  ornament  as 


"  MT^SS*  called  upon  us  for  assistance  in^o  ssing  the 
Four  Forks,  for  reason  that  every  man  in  the  tram  ^  «"  **  "^ 
helped  them  to  cross,  when  they  went  their  way. 
nia  train  camped  here  last  night.     They  moved   on   his  mornin 
intention  of  getting  up  a  celebration  of  our  *ati  ^  Annnersaiy  o 
Fourth  of  July.     We  have  traveled  occasionally  with  .them  since  ^niun 
the  Little  Blue,  often  ramping  with  them,  so  much  so  that  we 

like  old  friends.  .    ,     r       Forks  - 

our  *  >rks. 


around  the    mountain  I  ever  saw,  sometimes  raising 
pendicular  rocks  threo  feet  high,  sometimes  jumping  off  sirn 
We  broke  the  bolster  to  our  wagon-others  experienced  other 
Some  in  advance  of  us  had  been  still  more  unfortunate,  as  ^ 
wagons  along  the  road  plainly  proved.     We  drove  about  12  mil 


JOURNAL,    JUtY     1850. 


e"m'  W"ere  "C  'o"1"1  *«/  *  gras,,  .„„  cauht 


This  afternoon  we  bad  some  tremendous  hills  to  cl 
!'£  ™«h  ?^,  over  combs  of  rock,  but  at  ^ 


»ot  as  tiresome  as  the  descent 


/v.   .       ,  "  Kicuisui.il 

r**  sufficiently  tiresome,  though 


nigh,     We 


«-snsr£S^*2»as=?-E 


l 

ted  at  the  point  where  he  B^  K™ ±,2^°^   /he  SPrin*s  are 


4th.    Not  havi 


-  -  -  *wt'v«    iaiitres  01 

s  with  vegetation.     The  Springs 
plain  covered  with  cedars  through 
liver.     To  the  west  may  be  seen 
iow  a  barren  plain,  covered  with  wild  sane 
n  account  of  the  numerous  chasms  of  uV 
,  /awning  mouths  on  its  surface.     Probablv 
sities  m  the  world  than  the  Soda  Springs 
se  springs  is  equal  to  the  best  soda.     We  'tried  it 
a    most   pleasant   beverage.     One    of    then 
j,  is  a  great  curiosity  of  itself.     It  has  a  com 
2  cavity  of  which  may  be  six  or  eight  inches  in 
*  and  recedes  in  this  shaft  every  few  minutes 
steam  on  a  steamboat,  hence  its  name.    There 
and  springs  containing  other  minerals,  and  five 
urLake.  Wo  J>av«  \,0J  «  «u«« 


n-tops  are  covered  with  snow.     \Ve  have 
or  the  first  time  since  we  crossed  the 

fs,  with 
d  very 


JOURNAL  JULY   1850. 

concluded  to  travel  to-day.  The  Fort  Hall  road  heretbneffarso^thkeee^[' 
which  is  also  the  Oregon  route;  the  Soda  Springs  cut-off  route  keeps 
rectiY  across  the  old  crater.  We  concluded  to  go  the  alter  route.  About 
lollesTaveltook  us  over  the  cratar,  and  six  mfe. ^  -ore  over  the 
hills  to  a  branch  of  the  Lewis  or  Snake  River,  a  branch  of  the  Colum 
ba  River  where  we  found  another  Indian  village,  with  some :Mcx- 
fcans,  and  about  th?ee  hundred  of  the  most  beautifnl  -ky  Mo- 
,-rr  --j  *u~  .,;un,«.  onH  tfnrmpd  to  bait  on  tue  siae 


few  rods  from  our  camp,  to  celebrate  our  Nation 
drank  our  punch,  and  given  three  cheers  for  01 
surned  our  march.  Soon  after  starting  we  came 


broken  down,  who  were  about  to  take  to  packing. 


25  miles. 


I- ever  traveled  in;  stupei 
snow,  rearin* 




ild  wheat,  clover  and 


and  recover  their  manhood. 
6th.    Drove  about  11  mil 


23  miles. 


ires  any.    We  called 

i  .,  .     •      i- i 


this  the  Emigrant's  Pass.     It  seems  as  if  nature  construct,  "»•"•£ 
plain  expressly  for  the  benefit  of  us  poor  mortals  but  ,f  dame 
moved  by  any  such  kindly  feelings  towards  us  when  sho  was  enga «ed  on 
this  excellent  natural  road,  she  must  have  got  sadl  y  "iffed  when^  got 
it  completed  to  the  top  of  the  mountain,  for  we  bad  one  o  the  most  tre 
mendous  descents  to  make  on  the   other  s.de,  that  we  have   had  on  tho 
journey.     The  descent   was  probably    one  thousan d  fe et  within  the  first 
mile,  steeper  than  the  roof  of  a  house.     It  is  said  of  an  aneie     ^^; 
that  he  commenced  by  lifting  a  kid,  and  by  continuing  to  ^»^«w 
got  so  that  he  could  lift  an  ox.     This  is  somewhat  the  «JJ^'£™1 
we  commenced  the  journey,  trifling  hills  were  considered  gre 
but   now  we  lock  our  hind  wheels  and  slide  down  a  *^***£ 
rocks,  and  through  gullies,  with  m-*-*"**  "SBtSff 


JOURNAL,  JULY  I860. 

«£££&£  tunied  up  lo  thc  fwt  of  the  —  u 

7th.  Sunday.  We  concluded  to  lie  over  to-dav  althn  i. 
ot  so  good  a  camping  ground  as  we  could  desire  '  On  o& 
oyd,  of  Mineral  Point,  Wig,  had  a  horse  sZ 


This  afternoon,  we  entered  another  canon,  similar  to   the 
only  that  maead  of  havin    a  s  '  * 


)arrcn,  burning  sage    plain, 

had  to  cross,  since  leaving  the  Missouri  ^Dcev**^™1"    ^  ™,  have 
had  to  pack  all  of  our  load  across  it  on  our  baSs,     On?  ^ddy'  ™ 


abundance  of  i 


" 

I  fy    h.gh   granite  peaks  standing  about  in   thc  greatest 


. 


JOURKAL,  JULY    1850. 

confusion,  called  the  Steeple  Rocks.  They  are  quite  a  curiosity  at  a  dis- 
tance, looking  like  steeples  rising  up  from  the  plains,  some  of  them' many 
hundred  feet  high,  and  coTering  more  than  an  acre  or  two  at  the  base. — 
The  road  has  been  good.  25  miles. 

llth.  Got  an  early  start  this  morning.  We  had  a  very  cold  night, 
quite  cold  enough  for  December,  but  have  had  a  very  warm  day. — 
Passed  the  Junction  of  the  Salt  Lake  and  Ft.  Hall  roads  this  morning;— 
saw  some  wagons  coming  that  road,  the  men  said  they  had  been  seven 
days  coming  from  Salt  Lake;  that  it  was  about  170  miles,  and  that  they 
had  some  bad  streams  to  cross,  one  of  them  (the  Webber)  19  times. — 
Passed  a  new  grave  at  noon.  We  saw  the  team  to  which  the  person  be- 
longed who  died,  go  along  while  we  were  baiting;  he  was  then  alive;— 
when  we  came  up  two  hours  afterwards,  he  was  buried.  He  was  from 
Missouri,  and  had  been  left  sick  on  the  road  by  his  comrades.  The 
team  that  had  him  in  charge  had  picked  him  up  and  brought  him  along 
over  1000  miles  and  attended  him  until  he  died.  Humanity  sickens  at 
such  selfishness  as  that  manifested  by  his  comrades.  They  were 
three  in  number — he  owned  one  fourth  of  the  craft  in  common  with  them, 
but  becoming  sick,  the  brutes  left  him  to  the  mercy  of  Indians,  wolves,  or 
such  strangers  as  chance  might  throw  in  his  way.  The  scroundrels  should 
serve  10  years  in  the  penitentiary  if  they  ever  get  back  to  Missouri.  We 
find  many  sick  on  the  road  now,  and  some  deaths,  but  three-fourths  of  all 
that  are  sick  are  from  Missouri.  I  do  not  know  why  it  is,  but  such,  ap- 
pears to  be  the  fact. 

This  afternoon  we  had  a  long  bad  hill  to  descend,  when  we  reached 
Goose  Creek,  and  traveled  up  a  few  miles  and  camped  for  the  night — 
We  have  had  an  abundance  of  grass  and  water  to-day.  A  singular  look- 
ing gigantic  bluff  of  rocks  lies  directly  opposite  from  us,  whicfc  we  call  the 
castle,  and  it  looks  like  an  ancient  castle,  with  its  mossy  battlements  and 
sturdy  towers.  I  saw  some  of  the  most  beautiful  specimens  of  white  mar- 
ble to-day  that  it  hast  been  my  fortune  to  examine.  There  was  a  quarry 
of  it  filling  a  mountain.  It  was  as  pure  as  alabaster,  and  probably  has 
not  a  rival  in  the  world.  Horse  shoe  nails  sold  to-day  for  25  cents  a 
piece.  25  miles. 

12th.  Followed  up  theGoose  creek  13  milcs,thcn  up  a  spring  branch  thro* 
a  gorge  in  the  mountains  and  across  some  barren  ridges  without  water, 
about  12  miles,  when  we  entered  the  Thousand  Spring  Valley.  The  ridge 
that  we  crossed  is  composed  almost  entirely  of  lava,  or  melted  stone,  and 
is  very  rough  and  sharp  to  travel  over.  We  did  not  camp  until  after  dark, 
their  being  no  grass  at  the  first  springs,  and  then  we  camped  in  the 
wild  sage  without  grass,  but  vre  could  go  no  farther  that  night  Four- 
teen horses  ran  away  whilst  we  were  getting  our  supplies.  Some  of  them 
were  found  during  the  night,  and  the  rest  in  the  morning ;  they  had  found 
good  grass  up  in  the  hills.  Most  of  our  men  were  out  all  night,  so  that 
this  night  seems  but  a  continuation  for  the  morrow.  30  miles. 

13th.  Crossed  the  ridge  from  the  Thousand  Spring  Valley  to  the  Cold 
Creek  Valley  about  12  miles,  no  grass  or  water.  Cold  Creek  is  a  dry  creek 
where  we  struck  it,  but-  furnishes  some  water  for  stock.  Our  course  lay 
up  the  creek,  which  we  followed  up  to  near  its  head,  where  we  camped 
it  some  good  springs  impregnated  with  sulphur.  We  found  plenty  of  ^,r;i-  > 


«M  JOURNAL,    JULY    1850. 

at  night,  and  have  seen  considerable  quantities  of  alkali  through  the  day. 
We  passed  the  grave  of  a  man  drowned  July  1st,  [1850]  but  cannot  im- 
agine where  it  happened,  as  there  is  not  water  enough  in  the  creek  to 
drown  a  man,  if  if  he  should  lie  down  expressly  for  that  purpose.  The 
dust  has  been  very  oppressive  to-day.  23  miles. 

14th.  Sunday.  Laid  over  to-day.  Weather  very  warm,but  cold  last  ni^ht 
Jonathan  killed  a  sage  hen  to-day ;  we  found  it  good,  delicate  flavored 
meat,  much  better  than  prairie  hen.  A  packer  had  a  horse  shot  last  night 
with  an  arrow  about  10  miles  below  us;  another  man  lost  two  horses  and 
four  oxen  which  were  stolen  by  the  Indians. 

loth.  Got  an  early  start  this  morning,  traveled  about  four  miles  and 
came  to  the  hot  springs.  They  are  curiosities  worth  visiting.  They  boil 
up  like  water  iu  a  kettle,  and  are  hot  enough  to  cook  eggs.  I  attempted 
to  put  my  hand  into  one  of  them  to  the  wrist,bnt  could  not  get  it  in  to  the 
knuckles  without  scalding.  An  amusing  story  is  told  of  some  Dutchmen 
who  came  to  it,  and  stopped  their  teams  by  its  side,  when  one  of  them 
went  to  the  spring.and  seeing  it  boiling  up  clear  and  limpid,  threw  himself 
down  on  the  ground  and  thrust  his  face  into  the  water,  but  instantly 
sprang  to  his  feet  with  his  eyes  staring,  and  brushing  the  hot  water  from 
his  face  with  both  hands,  he  screamed  out,  "  Trive  on,  Honce,  trive  on ; 
hell  ishno  more  dan  five  milsh  from  here!"  The  springs  smell  strong  of 
sulphur,  and  discharge  a  large  quantity  of  water.  Near  them  are  some 
good  cold  springs.  Four  miles  from  these  springs  we  left  the  Mormon 
trace  which  leads  over  to  Kanyon  Creek,  and  passed  through  a  valley  to 
a  branch  of  the  Humbolt  River.  Road  good  but  dusty,  not  much 
grass.  At  the  point  where  we  left  the  Mormon  trace,  we  found  an  excel- 
lent spring  of  pure  cold  water,  as  cold  as  ice  water.  We  passeed  a  natu- 
ral well  near  the  place  -where  we  struck  a  branch  of  the  Humboldt,  and 
camped  two  miles  below  at  some  sulphur  springs,  strongly  impregnated 
with  alkali.  This  well  has  no  soundings  that  have  ever  been  reached,  there 
are  also  some  of  the  same  in  Thousand  Spring  Valley.  The  whole  coun- 
try hereabouts  has  been  at  some  day  past  a  great  volcanic  crater,  and  its 
distinctive  features  at  this  day  will  remind  one  of  that  place  spoken  of 
above  by  the  honest  Dutchman,  rather  than  pertaining  to  earth.  We  have 
passed  springs  gushing  out  of  the  rocks  to-day  so  poisonous  that  a  wine 
glass  full  would  kill  a  man  as  soon  as  so  much  arsenic.  They  can 
be  told  by  the  smell  for  40  rods  before  reaching  them.  We  found  good 
grass  to-night,  although  there  was  considerable  alkali  mixed  with  it 

33  miles. 

1C.  About  10  miles  drive  brought  us  to  the  Humboldt,  which  is  about 
'20  yards  wide  and  three  feet  deep.  We  crossed  it  and  followed  down  it 
on  its  west  bank.  The  valley  here  is  wide  and  filled  with  abundance  of 
excellent  grass,  clover,  wild  oats,  wheat  and  red  top.  The  day  has  been 
very  hot  and  dusty,  yet  on  both  sides  of  us,  but  a  few  miles  distant,  the 
tops  of  the  mountains  are  covered  with  snow.  We  passed  two  new  graves 
to-day ;  one  of  them  was  of  a  man  who  was  shot  by  an  Indian  whilst  on 
^uard  on  the  night  of  the  2d  of  July,  and  died  on  the  fifth.  His  name 
was  was  Oliver;  he  was  from  Waukesha,  Wis.  The  Indians  are  rather 
troublesome  of  late,  as  the  Diggers  always  are  when  they  dare  to  be.  We 
tind  a  great  maw-  dead  horses  now,  and  some  that  are  left  alive,  the  ef- 


JOURNAL,    JULY    1850. 

fectsof  hard  drivino-  and  alkali.  The  most  of  the  dead,  stock  heretofore  has 
been  oxen,  but  it  seems  now  that  oxen  stand  this  part  of  the  trip  the 
,  25  miles. 

JCl7th.  Course  still  down  the  river— crossed  a  considerable  branch  of  the 
Humboldt,  probably    the  Kanyon  creek.     The  Humboldt  here   is   very 
swampy.     Had  some  of  our  horses  mired— general  complaint  of  like  i 
ture.    The  road  last  year  followed  down  the  bottoms,  but  this  year 
water  is  so  hi"h,  that  the  bottoms  are  one  complete  swamp,  and  as  a  c< 
sequence  we  have  to  keep  on  the  sage  plains  and  cross  ridges,  making  t 
road  longer  and  worse  to  travel,  and  also   to  wade   in  the  mud   and  cut 
o-rass  for  our  stock.     Passed  another  grave  this  evening  of  a  man  I 
an  Indian;  also  some  men  digging  a  grave  for  one  of  their  comrad 
had  died.     There  is  an  abundance  of  red  clover  along  this  drive  in  ti 
low  grounds.  ,32  »llles' 

18th.     Continued  down  the  river— stopped    and  set  the  tire     >r  o« 
wagon.     This   afternoon  we  entered  a  canon  leading  across  a  spur  ol 
mountain,  distance  about  12   miles,  and  without  water.      Camped  on  a 
small  creek,  with  but  little  grass.    A  horse  was  shot  afhort  distance  fn 
us  by  the  Indians. 

1 9th.     About  five  miles  from  our  last  night's  camp  we  crossed  a  moun- 
tain brook  of  excellent  water,  then  entered   a  canon   which   we  followed 
for  26  miles,  the  first  U  without  water.     After  turning  the  summit,  ai 
descending  about  two  miles  we  came  to  a  spring  of  pure  cold  water  by  U 
road  side.     We  camped  this  night  on  the  Humboldt  and  swam  our  stock 
across  the  river.    Our  camp  presents  the  appearance  of  a  populous  village. 
There  are  probably  not  far  from  five  hundred   men  m  it,  besides  many 
women  and   children.     Found  good  grass  .*>n  the   opposite  side  of  the 
•  oo  miles. 

"loth      Our  road  to-day  led  mostly  away  from  the  river,  crossing  some 
ridges  in  the  forenoon;  in  the  afternoon  left  the  river  and  crossed  a  level 
sacfe  plain  to  the  base  of  the  mountains,  where  we  found  some  poor  wa 
and  some  grass.     We   followed  along  at  the  base   of  the  hills  until   we 
reached  within  a  few  miles  of  the  river  again  and  camped  on  a  bottom 
ered  with  heavy  grass,  and  slough  water.    This  is  the  best  point  to  stop  at 
to  recruit  on  the  Humboldt,  as  there  are  miles  of  good  grass  equal  to  the 
less  cultivated  meadows,  and  but  little  alkali,  and  by  taking  some  pains, 
water  may  be  had.    It  will  be  known  by  the  emigrant  by  this  descnptio 
The  road  leaves  the  river  and  runs  directly  to  the  hills,  the  river  b 
ing  to  the  left.     The  hills  which  you  approach  also  bear  to  the  left,  until 
they  approach  the  river,  which  takes  a  short  turn  around  its  base,     it] 
road  when  it  reaches  the  hills  turns  to  the  left  and  follows  the  base  of  them 
until  it  strikes  the  river,  then  passes  around  the  rocky  rugged  point  o 
mountain  next  to  the  river.     After  you  pass  this  point  you  come  into  < 
tensive  salt  and  alkali  plains.     You  will  find   good  looking  grass  m  s( 
places,  but  it  is  so  much  impregnated  with  salt  and  alkali  that  your  stock 
will   run  down  on  it  all  the   time.     The  best  place  to  stop  here  « 
miles  before  you  reach  the  point  of  the  mountain, 
towards  the  river.  .     ,     Q.  , 

The  day  has  been  hot  and  the  dust  oppressive.  No  person  m  the      ates 
can  have  an  idea  of  the  dust  in  this  country  until  he  has  been  here. 


JOURNAL,   JULY    I860. 

man  will  settle  to  the  ankles  at  every  step,  and  his  eyes  and  nostrils  are 
lied  with  it  throughout  the  day;  and  when  the  wind  blows  it  is  suffoca- 
ting. The  country  is  volcanic,  the  mountains  being  composed  entirely  of 
lava  and  cinders.  We  found  a  new  variety  of  currants  here  yellow  va- 
riety, which  are  very  good.  Fuller  picked  a  large  quantity  of  them 

*•£*     ~  -  30  miles, 

•ove  about  eight  miles  to-< 

»cd  near  the  river  in  a  clover"  patch.  "There  arc 
a  number  of  warm  springs  near  the  road   by  the   point  of  the  moun- 

22d.  Left  the  river  this  morning  and  traveled  down  the  second  bank 
of  the  river,  a  nearly  level  plain  covered  with  alkali  and  wild  sa<re,  but  no 
grass.  We  went  to  the  river  once,  although  out  of  the  way.  *The  ri^ht 
hand  road  is  18  miles  without  grass  or  water,  very  dusty  and  disagreea- 
ble. Water  very  bad,  even  that  in  the  river;  camped  on  the  river  bank, 
no  grass  on  our  side.  The  boys  swam  the  river  about  fifteen  rods  wide' 
here,  and  rigged  a  sort  of  ferry  with  our  piquet  ropes,  and  ferried  grass 
across  on  them  fof  the  night,  no  small  job  for  17  horses.  23  miles. 

23d.     Started  this  morning  at  four  o'clock,  A.  M.     From  camp  it  is  14 
miles  to  water  or  graas.  Two  miles  from  camp  the  roads  branched  in  every 
direction,  and  the  course  of  the  river  is  hidden  entirely  by  the  mountain 
which  seems  to  circle  the  whole  country  like  the  rim  of  a  great  basin,  with 
the  exception  of  a  gap  far  to  the  right.     The  plain  spreads  out   to  the 
mountains  level  and  desolate,  a  desert.     Tt  is  labyrinth  of  roads  gave  rise 
to  one  of  the  most  ludicrous  scenes  that  I  ever  saw.     For  myself,  I  had 
been  lost  from  my  wagons  since  daylight,  without  being  aware  of  the  fact, 
and  like  the  rest  had  taken  a  wrong    road.     About  noon   I  found  some' 
good  clover  and  stopped  to  bait  my  horse.    When  I  started  again,  on  rising 
a  gentle  aclivity  I  found  the  plain  alive  with  teams  and  men,  who  looked 
as  though  they   had  been  struck  with  the  confusion   of  Babylon.     Some 
were  driving  in  one  direction,  some  in  another,  oxen,  horses,  mules,  wacr- 
ons,  horse  packers  and  foot  packers,  were  hurrying  across  the  plains,  with- 
out seeming  object,  in  every  direction  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  and 
in  the  most  delightful  confusion  imaginable.     Two   hundred  wagons  and 
numbers  of  packers  had  lost  their  way,  and  knew  not  which  way  to  turn, 
and  as  usual  in  such  cases  were  going  every  wrong  way.     I  rode  up  to  a 
man  and  asked  him  what  the  deuce  was  to  pay ;  if  all    the   people  were 
mad  ?    He  was  as  much  in  the  fog  as  I  was.     Presently  some  packers 
came  along  who  said  they  had  been  to  the  end  of  the  road,  and  that  they 
were  lost.     This  explained  the  confusion,  although  not  very  satisfactory  of 
itself,  for  we  began  to  fear  that  we  had  inadvertantly  been  following  some 
old  cut-off  which  would  take  time  to  retrace.     By  good  fortune  I  succeed- 
ed in  finding  one  wagon  belonging  to  our  train,  where  I  got  some  dinner. 
.Our  train  had  become  broken  up  as  well  as  the  rest  in  the  confusion,  each 
one  going  on  his  own  hook.     After  dinner  I  struck  out  in  the   direction 
where  I  thought  to  find  the  river,  and  found  I  was  right,  and  about  night 
was  so  fortunate  as  to  find  the  ballance  of  the  train,   who  had  succeeded 
m  reaching  the  river  ahead  of  me.  Emigrants,  that  is  the  Fools  Meadow. 
When  you  get  down  below  the  point  of  the  mountain  which  I  spoke  of  be- 
fore this,  and  come  to  a  great  basin,  surrounded  on  all  sides,  but  a  gap  far 


JOL'IIXAL,    JLNE    1850.  'J'» 

to  the  right,  don't  you  pay  any  attention  to  that  gap,  nor  come  to  the 
conclusion  that  the  river  takes  a  turn  and  runs  through  it,  for  it  don't  do 
it,  but  you  keep  the  extreme  left  hand  road,  and  you  will  find  that  the 
river  runs  right  through  tho  mountains  as  high  as  they  look.  The  right 
hand  roads  are  all  camping  roads,  and  extend  some  of  them  12  miles  to 
some  clover  patches,  and  the  old  Lawson  cut-off  lead*  through  that  gap  on 
the  right,  where  an  Oregon  party  went  two  or  three  years  ago  and  near- 
ly all  perished.  Many  stopped  and  made  hay  at  these  clover  patches.thin- 
kino-  they  were  at  the  desert,  but  don't  trouble  yourself  here,  for  you  have 
got  a  long  dreary  march  of  a  week's  duration  before  you  get  to  the  Great 
Desert.  We  traveled  hard  all  day  to  get  14  miles  on  our'  journey,  but 
I  think  the  emigrant  who  reads  this  will  remember  the  Fools  Meadow,  and 
avoid  the  same  mistake.  The  emigrants  now  begin  to  experience  a  want 
of  provisions.  Flour,  pork  and  sugar  are  one  dollar  per  Ib. ;  coffee  50  cts., 
fresh  beef  25,  and  not  much  to  be  got  at  those  prices.  14  miles. 

24th.  About  four  miles  from  last  night's  camp  ground  we  came  to  a 
watering  place  near  where  the  river  passes  through  the  mountains.  The 
road  leaves  the  river  here  and  crosses  the  mountains  eight  miles,  rough 
road  and  dusty,  no  water.  Swam  the  river  for  grass  to  bait  our  horses 
at  noon.  Passed  the  grave  of  a  man  who  was  drowned  whilst  getting 
grass  across  the  river.  Camped  at  night  on  the  river;  had  to  wade  three 
sloughs  to  find  grass.  20  miles. 

25th.  A  few  miles  from  where  we  camped  had  a  bad  deep  creek  to 
cross,  where  we  found  plenty  of  dead  stock.  Immediately  after  crossing 
passed  over  a  rough  stony  ridge  for  about  two  miles,  between  two  cone 
shaped  hills  or  mammelles.  This  point  is  about  110  miles  from  the  mead- 
ows at  the  sink  of  the  Humboldt,  and  there  is  but  little  grass  on  the  route. 
Litwiler  cut  his  wagon  in  two  and  made  a  cart  of  it,  we  then  drove  about 
eight  miles  and  camped.  Roads  sandy,  weather  hot.  This  river  .begin- 
ning to  lose  itseft  and  grow  smaller.  I  killed  three  sage  hens  this  morn- 
ing, which  were  very  desirable  as  we  are  getting  short  of  provisions. 

18  miles. 

2Gth.  Traveled  over  18  miles  of  very  bad  road  to-day.  It  was  over 
a  table  of  the  mountain.  The  sand  was  six  inches  deep,  for  most  of  the 
way,  and  the  day  hot;  our  stock  suffered  severely.  Passed  much  dead 
stock  and  piles  of  wagon  irons.  Killed  two  sage  hens — mosquitoes  quite 
troublesome ;  camped  on  the  river  bottom  which  is  narrow ;  but  little 
grass.  1  8  miles. 

27th.  Started  at  four  o'clock,  A.  M.,  traveled  down  the  river  two  miles, 
then  left  the  river,  struck  across  a  desert  plain  12  miles  to  the  river;  many 
think  this  the  Great  Desert;  it  is  desert  enough,  but  not  the  Great  Desert 
This  point  will  be  known  by  a  high  mountain  dividing  two  valleys.  The 
river  runs  to  the  right  of  this  mountain.  At  noon  we  had  to  feed  our 
horses  on  willows,  there  being  no  grass.  We  got  some  rushes  by  swim- 
ming the  river.  We  have  now  got  far  enough  along  to  begin  to  have  a 
sight  of  tho  Elephant.  The  river  here  runs'through  narrow  clay  banks 
like  a  canal.  Passed  the  grave  of  a  man  found  in  the  river;  camped  at 
night  on  a  sand  bank,  put  our  horses  across  the  river;  gras  poor. 

17  miles. 


*  JOURNAL,    JULY     IS.-.O. 

28th.  Sunday.  Crossed  a  sand  ridge  about  two  miles,  and  travelled 
down  the  bottom  about  four  miles,  where  we  found  some  o-rass  and 
camped.  Our  horses  are  failing  fast.  Kit  Carson  says  truly  &that  the 
Humboldt  is  the  burying  ground  for  horses  and  oxen.  We"  pass  daily 
great  numbers  of  dead  stock  at  the  camping  grounds,  in  the  sloughs,  and 
in  the  river.  The  river  is  nothing  but  horse  broth.seasoned  with  alkali  <fc  salt. 
The  appearance  of  emigrants  has  sadly  changed  since  we  started.  Then 
they  were  full  of  life  and  animation,  and  the  road  was  enlivened  with, 
the  song  of  "I  am  going  to  California  with  my  tin  pan  on  my  knee."  "Oh, 
California,  that's  the  land  for  me,"  but  now  they  crawl  along  hungry,  and 
spiritless,  and  if  a  song  is  raised  at  all,  it  is,  "  Oh  carry  me  back  to  Old 
Virginia,  to  Old  Virginia's  shore."  Well,  they  say  misery  loves  company, 
so  we  can  have  some  enjoyment  after  all,  for  there  is  plenty  of  that  kind 
of  company.  No  one  seems  to  know  where  we  are,  even  those  who  trav- 
eled the  route  last  year,  several  of  whom  are  along.  Last  year  the  road 
led  immediately  on  the  bottom,  but  this  year  it  is  on  the  sage  plains  or 
second  level  of  the  river,  the  bottoms  being  so  swampy  that  they  cannot 
be  crossed.  The  Mormon  guide  for  this  end  of  the  route,  is  good  for  noth- 
ing. Yesterday  was  the  worst  day  for  dust  that  we  have  had.  Every 
body  was  literally  covered  with  it  so  that  the  drivers  could  not  be  recog- 
nised. 6  mi|e& 

29th.  Litwiller  and  Ranahan  killed  three  antelope  yesterday.  They 
packed  in  two  of  them  about  eight  miles  from  the  mountains.  They  ar- 
rived in  camp  about  1 1  o'clock  at  night.  Passed  the  clay  banks,  some 
perpendicular  banks  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  about  50  feet  high. 
From  this  place  is  a  desert,  the  river  running  through  narrow  clay  banks, 
void  of  vegetation  except  the  Artemesia  or  wild  sage.  The  road  general- 
ly follows  the  plains  back  from  the  river,  only  approaching  occasionally  for 
water.  We  camped  about  three  P.  M.,  and  managed  to  get  a  little  grass 
•for  our  horses.  15  mjies. 

30th.  Started  at  four  A.  M. ;  route  similar  that  of  yesterday.  We  are 
now  in  sight  of  the  Pyramid,  a  lone  peak  nearly  opposite  the  upper  slough 
of  the  sink  commonly  called  the  meadow.  Road  touched  the  river  once 
•or  twice  to-day  for  water,  but  no  grass,  nothing  for  feed  but  willows. 

16  miles. 

31st.  Started  at  one  o'clock,  A.  M.,  struck  the  river  again  10  miles 
from  camp;  no  grass,  only  an  arid  sage  desert  From  this  it  is  25 
miles  to  the  slough  or  meadows,  and  13  to  water,  which  will  be  found  at 
some  springs  in  the  gully  directly  opposite  the  pyramid.  We  reached  the 
springs  about  10  o'clock,  A.  M.,  although  one  of  our  horses  gave  out,  which 
delayed  us  somewhat,  and  reached  the  upper  end  of  the  slough  about 
noon,  where  we  obtained  some  rushes  and  flags  for  our  horses  which  they 
devoured  greedily  after  their  long  fast  on  willows.  The  pyramid  at  a  dis- 
tance resembles  an  ancient  Mexican  pyramid,  rising  by  steps.  It  may  be 
seen  for  40  miles  up  the  river,  and  serves  as  a  beacon,  for  the  slough  or 
meadows.  After  baiting  we  continued  down  the  slough  about  six  miles 
to  some  passable  springs,  and  to  where  there  is  better  grass.  We  found 
two  cities  of  tents  at  the  slough  quite  populous.  They  would  do  honor 
to  more  civilized  countries.  The  road  for  a  few  days  past  has  been  strewed 
with  dead  stock.  I  counted  to-day  120  head  of  horses,  mules  and  oxen, 


.lUlKNAL,  ACCLST   1800. 

and  cot  tired  of  it  before  night  at  that.     I  suppose  1  passed  5u  head  more 
that!  did  not  count.     If  there  is  any  worse  desert   ahead  than  we 
found  for  70  miles  back,  I  don't  know  what  it  may  be.     I  have  «** 
several  dead  horses,  mules  and  oxen,  by  the  roadside,  that  had  their  ban 
it  out  to  eat  by  the  starving  wretches  along  the  road;  for  my   own  par 
I  will  eat  the  lizzards  which  infest  the  sage  bushes,  before  I  will  eat  th 
stock  that  died  from  the  alkali.     The  destitution  has  reached  its  height 
now.     Hundreds  are  entirely  out  of  provisions,  and  there  are  none  whc 
have  any  to  spare,  and  but  very  few  who  have  enough  to  carry  them  into 
the  mines.     Often,  almost  daily,  will  some  poor  starved  fellow  come  up  to 
the  wagon  and  pray  us  in  God's  name  to  give  or  sell  him  a  crust  of  b 
some  of  them  asserting  that  they  have  eaten  no  food  for  two,  or  ever 
days.     Money  is  no  consideration   for  food  here ;  no  one   will 
money,  but  we  always  give  enough  to  prevent  starvation,  when   thus  i 
portuned,  although  we  have  not  over  five  days'  provision  on  hand,  putting 
our  trust  in  Providence  for  the  issue  to  ourselves— for  so  long  as  there 
game  in  the  mountains  we  will  never  starve. 

To-day  is  the  first,  since  the  third  day  of  June,  that  we  have  been  out  ol 
sight  of  snow  fora  whole  day;  it  has  been  excessively   hot,  the 
sing  in  clouds;  roads  bad,  owing  to  the  deep  sand. 

August  1st     Remained  camped  to-day,  preparing  hay  for  crossing  t 
Desert  which  commences  20  miles  from  the  slough  or  meadow, 
an  abundance  of  grass  at  this  point  for  all  the  stock  that  can  ever  reach 
here      We  have  to  wade  to  get  it,  then  cart  it  to  the  channel,  and 
across  that  in  a  wagon  box.     A  man  with  his  wife  came  into  the  camp  last 
nieht  on  foot,  packing  what  little  property  they  had  left  on  a  single  ox, 
the  sole  remaining  animal  of  their  team;   but  I  was  informed  of  a  worse 
caee  than  this  by  some  packers,  who  said  they  passed  a  man  and  his  wife 
about  11  miles  back  who  were  on  foot,  toiling  through  the  hot  sand,  the 
man  carrying  the  blankets  and   other   necessaries,  and  his  wife  carrying 
their  only  child  in  her  arms,  having  lost  all  their  team. 

2d     We  still  remain  at  the  meadows.    A  team  came  m  yesterday  even 
inn-  from  Sacramento,  loaded  with  provisions.     They  ask  for  rice  §      .0  per 
lb*   for  flour  82  00;  bacon  $2  00;  whiskey  $2  00  per  pint,  and  brandy 
$3' 00  per  pint.      vVe  killed  a  cow  this  evening  which  we  had  picked  up 
a  few  days  ao-o  at  a  camping  ground,  where  she  had  been  left  on  account  of 
lameness.     She  was  not  exactly  beef,  but  she  was  better  eating  than  dead 
mules  and  horses  by  the  road  side;  we  divided  her  up  m  the  tram 
among  the  starving  people  who  are  about  us,  only  saving  a  small 
for  ourselves,  which  we  jerked  and  dried. 

3d     We  are  still  lying  by.      About   two  miles  below  our  camp  a 
some  falls  in  the  river,  at  which  point  the  meadows  terminate, 
no  more  ^rass  from  here  until  we  reach  Carson  River,  about  66 
Some  of  "the  teams  that  left  us  above  Fort  Kearney  came  m  to-day,  ei 
tirely  destitute  of  provisions,  and  had  been  so  for  some  days,  a 
they  had  contrived  to  starve  along  somehow.     We  heard  of  them  b 
they  o-ot  here,  and  saved  a  little  beef  for  them. 

4th  Sunday.  Broke  up  camp  and  started  again.  V\  c  had  stoppec 
three  dnys  to  recruit  our  horses  before  taking  the  d?sert,  and  althougl 
we  have  taken  the  utmost  pains  with  thcm.they  are  weaker  now  than 


JOURNAL,    AUtiL'fcl   J850. 

we  stopped.  My  advice  to  all  is  not  to  make  any  slop  at  this  point,  but 
push  on  to  Carson  River,  for  there  is  so  much  alkali  in  the  water  and 
grass  here  that  your  stock  will  not  recruit.  There  is  no  water  for  the  next 
20  miles  lit  for  stock  to  drink.  We  lost  one  horse  to-day  from  watering 
beside  the  road,  t>ur  miles  before  we  got  to  the  sink.  He  died  in  thirty 
minutes  after  drinking,  in  the  greatest  agony.  Two  others  were  much 
injured,  so  much  so,  that  we  could  only  get  them  to  the  sink  with  the 
greatest  difficulty.  Trimble  and  Sublet  also  lost  one.  Beware  of  shal- 
low water  along  here.  20  miles. 

5th.  Reached  the  Sink  last  night  about  sunset  This  is  a  basin  about 
80  rods  wide  and  half  a  mile  long.  It  is  usually  the  last  water  found  on 
"ie  Humboldt,  or  where  it  loses  if  elf  in  the  sand,  hence  its  name,  but 

'<;  year  the  water  is  so  high  that  •  runs  down  several  miles  further  before  it 
entirely  sinks.  There  is  no  grss  ere  whatever,  nothing  but  desert.  We 
broke  up  our  wagon  to-day  and  made  pack  saddles,  being  convinced  of  the 
impossibility  of  getting  our  wagon  across  the  desert,  since  the  loss  of  the 
horse  yesterday  and  the  injury  to  the  others.  Last  night  while  we  were 
making  our  supper  on  coffee  and  boiled  corn,  soon  after  dark,  a  man  came 
to  us  and  asked  for  a  drink  of  water.  I  gave  it  to  him;  after  drinking  he 
stood  looking  wistfully  at  our  corn,  then  asked  me  if  I  would  take  half  a 
dollar  for  a  pint  cup  full  of  it.  I  told  him  I  would  not  take  half  a  dol- 
lar for  it,  for  money  was  no  consideration  for  food  here.  He  said  no  mftre, 
but  turned  sorrowfully  away,  when  I  stopped  him  and  asked  him  if  he 
was  in  distress.  He  said  that  he  had  eaten  nothing  for  two  days  but  a 
small  piece  of  dried  meat  which  a  man  gave  him.  I  then  told  him  that  I 
would  not  take  a  half  dollar  for  the  corn,  but  that  he  was  welcome  to  sit 
down  and  eat  his  fill ;  for  although  we  were  nearly  out  of  provisions,  we 
would  divide  with  a  man  in  distress  to  the  last  morsel.  He  stopped  the 
night  with  us,  and  took  breakfast,  and  although  urged  to  stop  and  cross 
the  desert  with  us  to-day,  or  take  some  corn  with  him,  he  would  not  do 
it,  but  said  that  he  had  taxed  our  hospitality  too  much  already,  and  left 
us  this  morning.  His  name  was  Bayell,  he  belonged  in  one  of  the  cen- 
tral counties  of  Illinois,  and  was  a  man  of  standing  and  influence  at  home, 
and  a  brother  of  the  1.  0.  O.  F.  He  said  he  hailed  when  he  came  up  to 
our  camp,  but  it  was  so  dark  that  I  did  not  see  his  hail,  or  I  should  not 
have  put  him  to  the  test,  to  see  whether  he  was  really  needy  or  not.  Sub- 
let and  company,  and  Williams  &  Co.  left  us  this  morning  to  cross  the  des- 
ert; we  got  our  pack  saddles  completed,  and  took  the  desert  at  2  o'clock, 
P.  P.,  and  traveled  all  night.  Two  of  our  horses  gave  out,  the  same  that 
were  alkalied,  and  we  left  them.  About  midnight  we  reached  the  first 
wagon  road  where  we  found  about  four  acres  of  wagons  left  to  decay  on 
the  desert;  this  is  the  first  sand  ridge;  we  passed  two  other  wagon  yards 
before  morniug  at  similar  ridges,  besides  great  numbers  along  the  road, 
Albany  of  them  burning.  Who  will  accurately  describe  this  desert  at  this 
time?  Imagine  to  yourself  a  vast  plain  of  sand  and  clay;  the  moon  ri- 
ding over  you  in  silent  grandeur,  just  renders  visible  by  her  light  the  dis- 
tant mountains;  the  stinted  sage,  the  salt  lakes,  cheating  the  thirsty  trav- 
eler into  the  belief  that  water  is  near:  yes,  water  it  is,  but  poison  to  thr 
living  thing  that  stops  to  drink.  Train  after  train  drag  their  tiresome 
course  along,  man  and  beast  suffering  all  the  pangs  of  thirst  toil  on.  fee' 


JOURNAL,  AUOU8T  1850.  41 

ing,  ksowing  that  the  burning  sun  finds  thcni  on  the  desert  in  the  com- 
ing day,  their  sfferings  will  be  enhanced  ten-fold,  if  worn  out  with  fatigue 
and  thirst  they  do  not  faint  by  the  wayside  and  give  up  altogether.  Burn- 
ing wagons  render  still  more  hideous  the  solemn  march ;  dead  horses  line 
the  road,  and  living  ones  may  be  constantly  seen,  lapping  and  rollin<r  the 
empty  water  casks  (which  have  been  cast  away)  for  a  drop  of  w^ter  to 
quench  their  burning  thirst,  or  standing  with  drooping  heads,  waiting  for 
death  to  relieve  them  of  their  tortures,  or  lying  on  the  sand  half  buried, 
unable  to  rise,  yet  still  trying.  The  sand  hills  are  reached ;  then  comes 
a  scene  of  confusion  and  dismay.  Animal  after  animal  drops  down.  Wa<*- 
on  after  wagon  is  stopped,  the  strongest  animals  are  taken  out  of  the  har- 
ness, the  most  important  effects  are  taken  out  of  the  wagon  and  placed  on 
their  backs  and  all  hurry  away,  leaving  behind  wagons,  property  and  ani- 
mals that,  too  weak  to  travel  lie  and  broil  in  the  sun  in  an  agony  of  thirst 
until  death  relieves  them  of  their  tortures.  The  owners  hurry  on 
with  but  one  object  in  view,  that  of  reaching  the  Carson  River  before  the 
broling  sun  shall  reduce  them  to  the  same  condition.  Morning  comes,  and 
the  light  of  day  presents  a  scene  more  horrid  than  the  rout  of  a  defeated 
army ;  dead  stock  line  the  roads,  wagons,  rifles,  tents,  clothes,  everything 
but  food  may  be  found  scattered  along  the  road;  here  an  01,  who  standing 
famished  against  a  wagon  bed  until  nature  could  do  no  more,  settles  back 
into  it  and  dies;  and  there  a  horse  kicking  out  his  last  gasp  in  the  burn- 
ing sand,  men  scattered  along  the  plain  and  stretched  out  among  the  dead 
stock  like  corpses,  fill  out  the  picture.  The  desert!  you  must  see  it  and 
feel  it  in  an  August  day,  when  legions  have  crossed  it  before  you,  to  real- 
ize it  in  all  its  horrors.  But  heaven  save  you  from  the  experience. 

An  incident  occurred  this  evening  which  shows  well  of  the  selfishness 
of  some  people  on  this  route.  It  was  soon  after  dark ;  we  had  taken  off 
the  packs  to  rest  our  horses,  and  were  sitting  and  lying  in  the  sage  bush- 
es beside  the  road;  one  of  our  companions  had  a  few  miles  back  been 
compelled  to  leave  a  horse,  which  from  mistaken  feelings  of  sympathy 
for  the  poor  animal,  he  had  neglected  to  kill.  While  sitting  there,  a  com- 
pany of  packers  came  along  the  road,  when,  although  it  was  so  dark  that 
I  could  not  distinguish  one  animal  from  another,  our  friend  caught  up  his 
rifle,  cocked  and  presented  it  towards  one  of  them,  excjaiming  in  an  angry 

tone,  "Get  off  that  horse,  you  g d  d — n — d  scoundrel,  or  I'll  shoot 

him  down  under  you."  The  fellow  slid  off  the  horse  instantly,  when  our 
friend  gave  him  one  of  the  "dog-onit-est"  blowings  up,  as  the  Missourians 
say,  that  one  fellow  ever  got  for  riding  the  poor  animal  after  he  had  giv- 
en out.  It  was  our  friend's  horse,  who,  dark  as  it  was,  recognized  his 
faithful  animal.  The  fellow  sloped  without  saying  a  word  in  his  defence. 

6th.  Morning  still  finds  us  dragging  our  weary  steps  along  on  the  des- 
ert, with  nothing  near  but  endless  sand  hills  and  beds  of  clay.  Passed 
Sublett's  and  Trimbles  and  Williams's  wagons,  which  they  were  com- 
pelled from  loss  of  stock  to  leave.  Reached  the  last  sand  13  miles  from 
Carson's  River,  about  10  o'clock,  A.  M.,  where  we  found  a  water  station, 
and  bought  some  water  for  our  horses  at  75  cts.  a  gallon.  We  left  the 
pack  of  one  horse  here  for  the  station  keeper  to  bring  in  at  night,  and  the 
boys  went  on  with  the  horses,  leaving  Fuller,  who  Was  pretty  much  done 
over,  and  myself,  behind.  They  reached  the  river  about  four  o'clock,  P 


JOURNAL,    AUGU6T    1850. 

M.  We  were  fortunate  enough  to  find  some  old  friends,  1  Welch,  and  T 
Ranahan,  who  had  got  up  a  shelter  for  themselves  and  oxen,of  tents,cloths, 
and  wagon  covers,  to  protect  them  from  the  sun.  We  stayed  with  them 
through  the  heat  of  the  day,  and  about  night  started  again,  but  turned  ofl 
about  a  mile  from  the  road  to  visit  a  small  salt  lake,  where  we  found  a 
very  good  spring  of  fresh  water  and  a  sulphur  spring.  This  Jake  is  about 
three  miles  from  Carson  River;  its  waters  are  more  salt  than  the  most 
salt  brine,  and  its  shores  are  encrusted  with  pure  salt  Its  bed  was  evi- 
dently once  the  crater  of  a  volcano.  We  reached  the  river  about  10 
o'clock,  P.  M.,  but  could  not  find  our  camp  it  was  so  dark,  although  we 
found  the  next  day  that  we  had  passed  directly  through  it,  but  the  loss  of 
tents,  wagons,  &c.,  rendered  it  impossible  to  distinguish  our  comrades  who 
were  snoring  away,  wrapped  in  their  blankets.  However,  after  straggling 
around  until  towards  midnight,  we  found  the  tent  of  some  old  esteemed 
friends,  Esq.  Hoffman  &  son,  who  gave  us  a  hearty  welcome  and  a  spare 
blanket,  which,(having  already  filled  ourselves  with  God's  beverage  from 
the  Carson  River,)  was  to  us  a  perfect  elysian.  46  miles. 

7th.  There  are  several  stations  here,  at  which  they  sell  flour  at  $1,50 
per  lb.;  meals  at  $2,00  a  head,  and  liquor  at  $1,00  a  drink,  and  measure 
it  themselves.  There  arc  great  complaints  of  stock  stealing  here,  some  of 
the  station  keepers  having  a  hand  in  it.  About  20  men  went  down  the 
river  to-day  to  take  some  stock  away  from  the  Indians,  which  they  had 
stolen.  Among  them,  I  saw  Mountaineer  Jack.  He  was  riding  a  pony 
upon  the  full  gallop,  his  hair,  which  would  reach  over  his  shoulders,  strea- 
ming in  the  wind;  he  was  dressed  in  buckskin  from  head  to  foot,  sun- 
burnt and  bearded,  his  head  guiltless  of  any  other  covering  but  that  of  na- 
ture's; he  presented  the  most  perfect  specimen  of  a  wild  man,  conveying 
to  the  beholder  a  feeling  not  unmixed  -with  dread  as  he  approached,  ri- 
rle  in  hand,  and  his  belt  stuck  full  of  revolvers  and  bowie  khives.  But 
Jack  is  always  the  poor  man's  friend,  and  shabby  as  he  looks,  his  pockets 
are  always  lined  with  the  yellow  boys.  He  is  now  here  at  the  station,  ev- 
er ready  to  take  part  in  whatever  comes  up,  whether  it  be  a  game  of 
French  monte,  a  frolic,  or  to  make  a  foray  upon  the  Indian  villages  in  the 
mountains,  or  recover  the  emigrants  horses.  A  good  story  is  told  of  him, 
of  an  incident  whjch  transpired  a  few  days  ago.  He  was  then  over  the 
desert  on  the  Humboldt.  A  couple  of  starved  foot  packers  came  across 
him,  and  taking  Jim  from  his  wild  appearance  to  be  some  destitute  emi 
grant  as  bad  ott'  as  themselves,  and  as  misery  loves  company,  hailed  him 
with,  "Halloo,  friend,  we  had  better  travel  in  company ;  you  look  as  if  you 
had  seen  as  hard  times  as  ourselves.  Jack  stopped  and  looked  at  them 
until  they  came  up,  when  he  asked  them  what  they  meant.  They  told 
him  that  they  were  starving,  and  had  neither  provision  nor  money. — 
"  What!"  said  Jack,  "are  you  going  to  starve  in  this  fine  country?  You 

are  a  couple  of  d d  fools  if  you  do."     They  replied  that  they  had 

no  money,  and  if  they  had  it  would  not  buy  food  here.  Jack  put  his  hand 
in  his  pocket  and  pulled  out  a  10  dollar  piece  and  gave  them,  telling  them 
to  go  and  buy  some  flour.  They  then  started  for  the  river  to  where  there 
were  some  trains  in  sight,  and  Jack  along  with  them.  They  found  on  the 
river  a  large  train,  the  men  of  which  were  feeding  flour  to  their  mules. — 
One  of  thpm  walked  up  to  thr  captain  of  the  train,  and  stating  their  con- 


JOURNAL,    AUGUST    1850. 

4iuon  and  circumstances  asked  him  to  sell  *»!^^;J^& 
to  do  it,   telling  them  he  wanted  it  for  his  mules      I  hey  t 
were  s  arving,°but  he  replied  that  he  must  look  out  for  himself  before 
did  for  other0  folks,  and   that  they  might  as  well  be  f  ,J^s°oda^ 
ent  listener  to   the  conversation,    but  when  lie  found   that  the  capU 
would  not  let  them  have  any  flour,  he  walked  up  to  «^^«^ 
if  he  would  let  the  men  starve.     In  reply  the  captain  made   an  in.u 
response,  when  Jack  raised   his  list  and  gave  the  captain  a  blow  in  the 
teeth,  sprawling  him  on  the  ground,  and  telling   him    hat  he  vas  won* 
than  a  d  -  -d  digger  to  refuse  starving  men  flour  when  he  , 
it  to  mules;  he  left  him  -and  went  with  the  packers  to   wheie  1 

ceeded  in  buying  some  flour.  R-u^vell 

Moved  our  camp  up  the  river  six  miles  to  better  grass      b.w  Bagwell 
again;  he  said*  that  he  never  came  so  near  perishing  as  he  d 
sing  the  desert;  that  having  nothing  to  eat  but  the  piece  of  dried  mea  t, 
which  being  somewhat  salt,  made  him  thirsty,  and   having  no  wa  ;  er,  hi. 
tortures  became  almost  insupportable,  and  that  when  he  reached  1) 
water  camp,  his  tongue  was  swollen  so  that  he  could  not  keep  it  m  hi. 
mouth,  andhad  turned  black;  that  he  expended  his  \alf  do  Uar  Q  (which 
was  all  the  money  that  he  had)  for  water,  which  enabled  him  to  , 
the  river,  where   he  got  a  meal  of  victuals  on  credit,  and  *•**>«* 
cutting  rjrass  and  cutting  it  across  the  river  at  sixpence  a  bundle,  and    wa. 
SfTdSLfr*&  at  the  business.     He  left  the  road  -here  we 
struck  the  river  for  us  to  come  up  to  where  he  was  and  he  would 
all  the  grass  ready  for  us  that  we  should  want  gratis,  but  hndmg  grass, 
we  were  not  compelled  to  tax  him.  i-idim 

We  had  a  California  court  in  camp  to-day.     A  couple  ol 
a  man  drunk,  and  after  getting  him  to  he  down  laid  themselves  down  one 
on  each  side  of  him.     Presently  a  man  from  Pike  co.  Ill,  came  ^g,  and 
said  that  they  were  picking  his  pockets.     Seeing  that  nobody  else  wou 
interfere,  I  went  to  him,  tumbled  him  over  and  took  the  money  away  fron 
him,  whin  the  bystander,,  a  crowd  of  whom  had  gathered  Around  picked 
him  up  and  kicked  him  out   of  the  camp.     When  this  was  settled  some 
men  came  forward  and  stated  that  the  other   one   had   picked  anotl  er 
man's  pocket  who  was  then  drunk  in  a  gully  near  bye,  then  tumbled  1 
over,  and  found  as  drunk  as  he  pretended  to  be,  he  got  over  it  very  eas^ 
when  his  turn  came.     He  jumped  upon  his  feet  and  denied  the  charg  e  - 
vehemently,  and  with  such  brazen  impudence,  that  •^*°*"*J 
mistaken  and  wrong  in  holding  him  to  it   I  insisted  on  taking  ;  him  i  to  the 
man  who  was  robbed,  which  was  done  when  he  admitted  that  he  picked 


his  Docket  but  said  the  man  was     s    roer,  wic 

tWs^oen^ed  those  who  had  spoken  in  his  favor,  that  they  wlu,gdhm, 
.round  and  commenced   kicking  him  out  of  the  camp.     In  t  he  :  aflr 
Jrew  arvolver,  which  was  instantly  knocked  out  of  his  hand      A  man  on 
the  bank  of  the  river  seeing  the  revolver  ran  for  it,   which  led  .to   another 
scuffle,  those  who  were  kicking  him  supposing  him  to  be  a  friend  to  Bd 
ney,  but  the  man  succeeded  in  getting  the  pistol,  which  he  instantly  tl 


m'was  found  dead  in  a  wagon  on  the  desert  this  morning;  he 
probably  di^d  of  hunger  and  thirst.     The  Carson  Rivor  is  about  1-  >ar 


44  JOURNAL,    AUGUST   1850- 

wide  at  this  place,  and  three  feet  deep.  Its  banks  are  composed  of  ridges 
with  narrow  bottoms  covered  with  willows  and  scattering  cottonwood 
trees,  with  some  grass.  '  Q  miles. 

8th.  Litwiler  and  company  sold  their  horses  this  morning  and  started 
on  foot.  Ford,  one  of  our  men,  went  with  them,  leaving  but  four  of  us ; 
'we  being  nearly  out  of  provisions.  A  man  came  to  our  camp  this  morn  - 
ing  who  had  lost  everything  on  the  desert,  his  team,  wagon,  provisions-, 
and  father;  he  had  been  without  sleep  or  food  for  two  nights  and  a  day, 
and  was  pretty  much  worn  out  I  made  him  a  cup  of  coffee,  and  gave  him 
some  boiled  corn,  which  having  devoured,  he  laid  himself  down  in  the 
shade  and  slept  until  evening,  then  went  in  pursuit  of  his  father  again. — 
He  was  from  Missouri. 

A  man  came  near  being  drowned  near  us  this  morning,  but  was  saved 
by  a  person  standing  on  the  bank,  who  plunged  in  and  brbught  him  out. 
He  tumbled  off  his  horse  while  crossing  the  river,  which  frightened  him 
so  much  that  he  could  not  help  himself  in  the  least.  The  traders  her,e 
buy  hordes  of  the  emigrants  for  from  two  Ibs.  of  flour  to  10,  per  head. — 
Such  is  the  destitution.  I  saw  one  horse,  saddle  and  bridle,  a  very  good 
one  too,  sold  on  the  desert  for  three  gallons  of  water. 

9th.  Started  again  this  morning,  taking  along  the  Missourian  who  lost 
his  father.  We  consumed  the  last  of  our  rice  this  morning,  kaving  us 
reduced  to  six  quarts  of  corn,  and  three  Ibs.  of  dried  meat  for  four  of  us. 
The  road  soon  leaves  the  river  and  strikes  across  the  desert,  making  the 
river  again  about  two  miles  from  the  Carson  River  meadows.  The 
Missourian  and  myself  followed  up  the  river  and  found  a  very  good  pack- 
ing trail;  We  killed  two  turtle  doves  which  sustained  us  through  the 
day.  Saw  snow  again  to-day  on  the  tops  of  the  Sierra  Nevadas.  22  miles. 

10th.  Cancped  on  the  meadows  late  last  night,  where  we  remain  to- 
day to  recruit  our  horses.  Jonathan  and  myself  went  into  the  mountains 
hunting,  found  a  few  deer,  but  they  were  so  wild  that  we  could  not  get 
a  shot;  killed  a  large  yellow  rattle  snake, a  sage  hare,  and  found  an  old  In- 
dian and  boy  fishing,  traded  my  pocket  knife  to  tli/e  boy  for  a  line  with  10 
bone  hooks  I  attached  to  it,  caught  about  40  small  fish,  and  got  back  to 
camp  about  dark. 

llth.  Sunday.  Still  remain  in  camp.  Fuller  left  us  this  morning, 
having  concluded  to  pack  through  on  foot  with  Dr.  Cody,  o-t'  our  county. 
A  man  died  near  us  last  night.  He  was  picked  up  on  the  desert  and 
brought  thus  far  by  some  gentlemen  from  Davenport,  Iowa.  He  was  left 
there  by  his  messmates  sick,  without  food  or  water,  and  when  found,  his 
hands  and  face  were  so  blistered  by  the  scorching  sun  that  the  skin  all 
pealed  from  them,  leaving  them  as  raw  as  a  piece  of  beef.  Poor  fellow ! — 
When  found  he  was  crying  in  the  most  excruciating  agony  for  a  drop  of 
water  to  quench  his  burning  thirst.  Burning  at  the  stake  would  be  too 
merciful  to  the  hardened  wretches  who  left  him  sick  and  helpless  on  those 
burning  sands.  The  gentlemen  who  picked  him  up  had  been  lying  bye 
two  'or  three  days  at  this  place  expressly  on  his  account.  One  of  them 
was  a  physician ;  although  the  poor  fellow  was  a  stranger  to  them,  they 
tended  him  with  all  the  assiduity  of  brothers. 

12th.     Started  again  this  morning,  but  our  road  led  across  a  sand  plain 


JOURNAL,  AUGUST  1850. 

12  miles  wide,  when  we  struck  the  river  again,  following  a  packing  trail, 
thus  avoiding  the  desert  back  from  the  river.  22  miles. 

13th.  Our  road  followed  the  river  until  noon,  when  we  had  another 
stretch  of  desert  for  13  miles.  The  valley  begins  to  narrow  some- 
what 23  miles. 

14th.  Passed  through  a  canon  seven  miles,  continually  crossing  brooks 
of  cold  clear  water  from  the  mountains — beautiful  meadows  and  rich  land 
on  the  bottoms.  Desert  plains  back,  and  still  back  lofty  Sierra  Nevadas, 
their  sides  covered  with  the  evergreen  pine,  their  summits  with  snow. — 
Passed  some  hot  springs,  and  trading  stations.  The  latter  have  little 
to  sell  but  whiskey;  some  few  of  them  beef.  27  miles. 

15.  Passed  the  Mormon  station,  saw  a  party  of  Californians  and  Mex- 
icans prospecting.  There  is  gold  this  side  of  the  mountains.  Entered 
the  seven  mile  Kanyon,  which  begins  the  real  pass  of  the  Sierra  Nevada. 
A  branch  of  the  Carson  River  runs  through  it,  which  stream  we  fol- 
low to  its  head.  The  Kanyon  is  a  wild,  picturesque  place,  with  perpen- 
dicular wall  of  gray  granite  hundreds  of  feet  high,  with  lofty  pines  in  the 
bottoms,  and  a  perfect  chaos  of  granite  blocks  rent  from  the  walls  above. 
We  were  compelled  to  camp  in  it  with  nothing  for  our  horses  to  eat,  which 
somewhat  destroyed  the  romance  of  the  thing;  as  for  eating  ourselves,  it 
is  so  long  since  we  have  had  anything  to  eat  that  we  don't  trouble  our- 
selves about  it  23  miles. 

16th.  Got  out  of  the  Kanyan  into  the  valley,  and  stopped  to  bait.  Drove 
about  six  'miles  and  camped  for  the  night ;  grass  abundant  in  this  valley.  J. 
Ingalls  killed  a  California  partridge  to-day.  It  is  larger  than  a  partridge 
In  the  States,  and  finely  flavored.  8  miles. 

17.  This  morning  we  had  the  Nevadas  to  climb;  this  is  the  point  which 
will  stop  the  Pacific  Railroad  on  this  route,  if  anything  will  do  it.  This 
rise  is  said  to  be  9000  feet  in  13  miles.  After  climbing  the  first  moun- 
tain we  descended  to  a  lake,  which  is  the  head  of  one  of  the  bran- 
ches of  the  Sacramento.  It  is  the  crater  of  an  extinguished  volcano.  The 
next  mountain,  the  Snowy  Peak,  is  still  worse  than  the  last,  although  both 
for  most  part  oi  the  way  are  as  steep  as  the  roof  of  a  house ;  in  climbing 
it  our  road  lay  over  the  snow,  which  was  20  feet  deep  for  80  rods  up  its 
side.  Having  reached  the  top  of  the  snowy  peaks,  we  took  a  cut-off,,  de- 
scended about  two  miles  and  camped  at  a  small  brook  where  we  found 
good  grass.  We  had  the  good  fortune  to  shoot  three  woodchucks  [ground- 
hogs,] this  evening  which,  in  addition  to  three  Ibs.  of  flour  we  coaxed  out 
of  a  Californian,  made  us  feel  as  rich  as  the  Rothschilds.  We  have  not 
eaten  for  the  last  two  weeks  (all  of  us)  as  much  as  one  man  would  have 
eaten  if  he  could  have  had  all  that  he  required,  consequently  we  are  liv- 
ing in  the  greatest  luxury  and  abundance  to-night,  having  all  we  can  eat. 
It  does  not  take  much  to  make  man  happy  after  all ;  here  we  have  been 
starving  along  for  the  last  month,  crossing  deserts,  drinking  rotten,  alkali 
or  salt  water,  or  deprived  entirely,  and  now  we've  got  to  the  top  of  the 
Nevadas,around  our  camp  fire  amid  snow  drifts,with  plenty  of  good  water  and 
three  woodchucks  for  three  of  us,  and  we  are  the  happiest  mortals  alive ; 
we  seem  to  have  forgotten  that  we  ever  suffered  privation.  16  miles. 

18th.  Killed  another  woodchuck  this  morning;  begin  to  feel  as  if  we 
are  getting  into  a  land  of  plenty  again.  Passed  a  small  lake  at  the  foot 


JOURNAL,    AUGUST    1850. 

of  the  snowy  peak,  which  was  well  filled  with  spotted  trout  W«  madfe  a 
mistake  and  took  a  wrong  trail  this  morning,  after  passing  the  lake  which 
took  us  over  some  tremendous  granite  ridges  to  ascend  and  descend 
which  we  had  great  difficulty,  often  climbing  and  descending  bare  smooth 
rocks  for  rods  at  a  place,  the  horses  frequently  sliding  down  such  places 
on  their  haunches.  We  found  good  grass  in  the  ravines,  which  was  some 
compensation  for  the  badness  of  the  route.  We  got  out  to  the  road  about 
dark,  and  reached  Leek,  Springs  where  we  found  some  grass,  and 
camped.  18  miles. 

19th.  Our  road  lay  along  the  summit  of  a  ridge  covered  with  heavy 
pine  and  cedar  forests,  but  no  grass,  and  but  little  water.  Had  nothing 
for  our  horses  to  eat  but  brush  this  evening.  A  man  was  shot  just  back 
of  us.  A  trader  had  left  the  road  to  look  for  grass  and  water,  when  com- 
ing to  a  fallen  tree  by  a  thicket,  several  men  rose  up  from  behind  it  and 
snapped  a  gun  at  him,  which  did  not  go  off,  but  the  trader's  revolver  did , 
tumbling  one  of  them  into  the  bushes,  and  the  trader  went  off  too,  before 
they  could  make  another  attempt.  28  miles. 

20th.  We  Passed  the  forks  of  the  Weaver  Creek  and  Hang- 
town  road,  but  got  on  a  wrong  trail  which  we  followed  nearly  to  the  Wea- 
ver Creek.  Found  plenty  of  grass  and  cut  enough  to  supply  our  horses  for 
the  night,  which  would  have  cost  us  in  Hangtown  about  five  dollars.  Met 
some  miners  who,  not  knowing  the  country  much  better  than  we  did,  di- 
rected us  to  go  back  by  the  way  of  Johnson's  Ranch,  which  was  about  12 
miles,  when  we  were  by  the  right  route,  only  seven  miles  from  Hanglown. 
We  reached  the  diggings  at  the  he&d  of  the  emigrant  ravine,  three'miles 
from  Hangtown,  about  nine  o'clock,  P.  M.,  and  camped.  20  miles. 

21st.  Leaving  packs  and  horses  in  camp  we  entered  the  town  this  mor- 
ning, where  we  found  great  numbers  of  our  friends  and  county  people,  as 
also  my  brother,  who  had  reached  the  mines  25  days  ahead  of  us,  having 
started  on  the  Council  Bluffs  route  at  the  same  date  that  I  did. 

3  miles, 


CALIFORNIA-GENERAL  REMARKS. 

Having  reached  the  mines,  I  shall  close  with  some  remarks  in  relation  to 
the  country,  Ac.     California  is   a  country  of  contrarieties  in  every  re 
pecL     Probably  there  is  no  country  so  much  belied,  for,  generally,  tl 
who  admire  the  country  and  speak  in  its  praise,  tell  the  truth  m  such 
way  that  It  amounts  to  a  falsehood,  when  judged  by  the  lights  which  his 
audiences   in  the  States  will   have,  to  enable  them  to  understand  him. 
while  the  man  who  has  been  unfortunate  gives  it  the  same  false 
when  detracting  from  its  merits,  and  what  is  worse,  both  parties  spea 
erally  the  truth!  but  unless  his  auditors  have  been  here  they  cannot 
tain  a  correct  idea  of  the  country.     It  is  the  best  country  in   the  world, 
and  at  the  same  time  the  worst,  as  every  man  will  hnd  that  cor 
according  to  the  circumstances  in  which  he  may  chance  to  be  pla 
is  thought   that  the  diggings  are  exhausted,   but  from  observation  I 
satisfied  that  so  far  from  this  being  the  case,  their  riches  have  only  began 
to  be  discovered,  and  although  the  gulch  and  ravine  diggings  are  pretty 
much  worked  out,  yet  all  those  mountains   and  hills   composed  < 
and  earth,  will  be  found  to  contain  riches  of  great  va  hie    on  the  surface 
of  rock  upon  which  they    rest.     Mining  hereafter  will  be  attended  with 
greater  expense,  on  account  of  the  depth  which  the  miner   wi 11  have  to 
die  to  reach  the  gold,  but  there  will  be  rich  gold  diggings  in  California .  fo: 
a  hundred  years  to  come,  in   my  opinion.     Great  sickness  has  pre' 
thro'  the  fall  in  the  mines,  there  being  buried  from  Hangtown  alone  about 
13  a  day      At  the  least  calculation,  one  fourth  of  the  emigration  oi 
have,  or  will  die,  by  the  first  of  January  1851.     Miners   at  this  time  a 
eetting  but  small  pay,  very  many  not  more  than  paying  board. 
S^^eher^^ttb.tV^.M^^W  to  20  dollars 
a  day,  but  instead  of  those  prices,  they  are  glad  to  get  from  four  tc 
per  day,  and  very  many  do   not  make  but  half  that  sum.    Yet  neyerthj- 
less  California  is  "a  good  country,    and   if  people  would    move  tc 
their  families,  and   make  their  homes  here,  in  a  few  years  they  wouli 

rlCThePoTd  adage,   "  a  roling  stone  gathers  no  moss,"  is  exemplified  every 
day   here      The  same  restless  spirit  that  prompted  men  to  come,  keeps 
them  constantly  on   the  move  while  here.     Many  who  are  making 
three  to  six  dollars  a  day,  work  until  they  obtain  two  or   three  hundi 
dollars,  then  hearing  of  richer  diggings    otherwheres,  pull  up  a 
sure  work  and   travel  until  they  have   spent  what  they  have  got  anC 
month  or  two  in  prospecting,  when  they  become  strapped,  to  use  a 
ite  expression  here,  and  are  ^compelled  to  work  for  less  pay,  until  1 
a   raise,  when  the  same  spirit  puts  them  in  motion  again, 
men  who  have  been  here  two  years,  and  have  sometimes  had  a  tl 
dollars  on  hand,  that,  when  I  saw  them,  had  not  a  dollar,  and  were 
pelled  to  obtain  credit  to  enable  them   to  live  for  a  time  until  they  c 
make  a  raise  again,  and  all  the  result  of  this  restless  spirit     In  my  o 
ion  one  half  of  the  aggregate  time  of  the  miners  of  California  is  spei 


CALIFORNIA    IN   1850 — 51. 

traveling  from  one  section  of  the   mines  to  another.     California  may  be 
properly  divided  into  four  ranges,  or  divisions.     The  first,  the  alluvial  bot- 
toms of  the  rivers  or  bays,  and  the  plains,  which  comprise  all  of  the  ajrri- 
^Itural  country  in  the  State,  the  areaof  which  would  probably  amount  to 
-je  half  of  the  area  of  the  State  of  Illinois.     This  range  is  exceeding 
fertile,  probably  equal  to  any  soil  on  the  earth.     The  climate  is   excellent 
the  air  pure  and  healthy,  neither  too  cool  nor  too  hot,  and  well  calcula^ 
ted  for  the  products  of  a  temperate  climate,  as  well  as  many  of  tronical 
Orass  grows  on  the  bottoms  all  the  year,  and  farming  may  be  carried  or 
all  months  of  the  winter,  if  not  prevented  by  the  rain.    No  frosts  ever  nin 
the  crops,  and  the  seasons  present  a   perpetual  spring.     The  plains  are 
somewhat   elevated  from  the  bottoms,  gently  rolling,  and  resemble  our 
prairies,     ihe  soil  is  fertile,  but  cannot  be  cultivated  without  irrigation  in 
the  summer,  although  crops  are  raised  by  sowing  in  November  and  De- 
cember which  enables  them  to  get    so  far   advanced  by  the  commence- 
ment of  the  dry  season  as  to  avoid  the  drouth.     In  the  spring  they  are 
covered  with  a  great  variety  of  flowers,  wild  oats,  and  clover.     The  tim- 
on  this  range  consists  of  live  oak,  and  various  oaks  resembling  white 
burr  and  black  oak,  besides  various  shrubs.     The  second  range  is  the  low- 
r  hill  or  mountain  range,  which  is  also  the  gold  range.     The  soil  would 
admit  of  cultivation  if  it  could  be  irrigated,   but   this  would  be  impos- 
le  from  the  nature  of  the  country.  It  will  be  only  available  for  its  gold, 

il  win  n«7£  few  *?  °Plni°U'  althouSh  ^  business  of  gathering 

:t  will  not  be  as  profitable  hereafter  as  it  has  been      The  timber   in  t 
range  consists  of  the  various  kinds  of  oak  and  pine',  wiU  J^cedar  and 
spruce;  ,t  u i  no  valuable,  but  will  answer  the  wants  of  this  range  for  *he 
The  third  range  is  the  timber  range,  which  in  time  will  be  the 
most  valuable  part  of  California     Probably  no  part  of  the  world  will  fur- 
nish such  pme  and  cedar  timber.     The  valleys    are  filled  with  trees  from 
two  to  three  hundred  feet  high,  clear  from  limbs  nearly  to  their  tops,  and 
of  the  best  quahty  for  lumber;  many  of  the  trees  from  five  to  ten  feet  in 
imeteratthefoot.     I  saw  a  pine  iree  said  to  be  11,  and  a  cedar  15  feet 
hro ,  and  have  no  doubt  but  such  was  the  fact,  They  can  only  be  got  out  of 
e  mountains  by  railways  or  the  rivers  at  flood  time,  consequently  it  will  be 
some  years  before  the  attention  of  the  Cailfornian  will  be  turned  to  this 
•ranch of  trade.     But  little  gold  has  been  found  in  this  range,  or  proba- 
bly ever  will  be,  as  the  quartz  veins,  the  original  deposit  of  gold,  if  they 
exist  at  all  in  it,  lie  deep  under  the  granite  ridges 

The  next  range  and  the  last  lies  upon  the  bald  peaks  of  the  Sierra  Ne- 
vadas,   and   is  too  much  elevated  even  for  timber  to  grow  to  any  extent, 
r  summits  are  covered  eternally  with  snow,  and  their  sides,  where  un- 
.overed,  present  a  barren  shingle,  or  ragged  walls  of  lava.  But  little  gold 

'££a  \ t  Mnsf' and  J know  °f  n° use  °f  u  in  the  econ°my  *c 

ture  except  to  hold  the  world  together.     The  valleys  fit  for  cultivation,  are 
I  that  vegetation  cannot  grow,  except  grass,  which  is  of  better  qual- 
ity where  it  can  grow,  than  in  the  two  next  lower  ranges.    This  range  was 
also  the  district  of  volcanoes,  the  extinct  craters  of  which  indent  the  moun- 
in  every  direction,  and  are  now  generally  lakes  and  ponds  forming 

the   heads  Of   t,hfi  vannna   c  *>-.•....,,  m°  _       •        .,  •      1 


r.'ALTFORMA    I.V     1850 51. 

ragged  perpendicular  walls  of  lava  rise  thousands  of  feet  high,  black  :i:i  1 
gloomy,  as  it  cooled  off,  when  thrown  from  the  bowels  of  the  earth.  Tin- 
oast  side  of  the  mountains  on  the  descent  to  the  Carson  Valley  is  well  tim 
bered,  and  furnishes  some  good  gold  diggings,  although  not  very  much 
prospected.  The  Carson  Valley  is  perhaps  one  of  the  most  desirable  far- 
ming districts  in  California.  The  bottom  is  very  fertile,  and  covered  with 
a  heavy  growth  of  wild  clover,  wheat,  oats,  <tc.  The  plains  by  the  side 
of  the  bottoms  are  barren  deserts  covered  with  wild  sage,  and  utterly 
worthless.  The  climate  is  very  favorable  to  the  growth  of  the  cereal 
grains,  but  the  nights  are  too  cold  for  corn.  It  is  best  calculated  for  stock 
growing,  and  is  capable  of  supporting  a  population  of  many  thousands. — 
The  air  is  very  pure,  and  the  water  power  and  water  very  abundant,  and 
of  excellent  quality,  the  valley  being  well  supplied  with  numerous  small 
clear  streams  of  ice  cold  water,  running  from  the  mountains  across 
the  valley,  and  emptying  into  the  Carson  River.  The  California  railroad, 
if  built  by  way  of  the  ^uth  Pass  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  will  follow  up 
the  valley  of  this  river,  in  which  case  this  fertile  valley  will  soon  teem  with 
populous  villages  of  civilized  men,  instead  of  the  few  squalid,  thieving 
diggers  who  are  now  its  sole  tenants. 

The  gold  digging  of  California  is  much  less  profitable  than  it  was  in 
1849,  the  shallow  ravine  diggings  having  been  pretty  much  worked  out, 
but  there  is  no  doubt  but  that  the  hills  still  contain  inexhaustible  supplies, 
which  though  attended  with  greater  expense  in  obtaining,  will  neverthe 
less  pay  well  for  working,  when  the  same  shall  be  worked  by  a  permanent 
settled  population,  aided  by  mechanical  science.  It  is  folly  in  my  opinion 
for  a  man  to  leave  home  and  family,  with  all  his  home  interests,  to  go  to 
California  for  a  mere  temporary  sojourn  for  one  or  two  years.  A  man 
should  take  his  frmily  and  household  gods  with  him,  and  make  a  perma- 
nent settlement,  which  would  aid  him  very  materially  in  his  business  pros 
pects.  He  would  then  remain  in  one  location,  and  would  consequently 
save  both  time  and  money.  And  there  is  another  gain  in  locating  more 
permanently,  that  is  in  acquiring  a  better  knowledge  of  his  location.  Ev 
ery  section  of  the  mines  has  its  distinct  characteristic,  and  a  person  hav- 
ing learnt  the  location  and  features  of  gold  deposits  in  one  section,  in  re- 
moving to  another  will  have  to  learn  this  anew.  When  this  fact  is  taken 
into  consideration  it  will  be  quite  evident  that  a  man  will  always  succeed 
best  \vhen  permanently  located.  Any  man  of  sober,  industrious  habits, 
who  may  make  his  home  in  California,  will  in  10  years,  with  ordinary 
luck  and  health,  and  the  vicissitudes  of  life,  acquire  a  fortune  sufficiently 
aniple  to  maintain  hitpself  for  the  balance  of  his  life  in  the  old  states,  but 
many  who  nave  resided  for  that  length  of  time  in  California.will  be  unwil- 
ling to  leave  its  beautiful  climate  logo  back  to  the  old  states  to  liv«  in 
their  variable  climates. 

Many  conjectures  have  been  put  forth  as  to  the  cause  of  the  depos- 
its of  native  gold  on  the  surface,  and  many  have  asserted  that  it  came 
there  by  being  thrown  out  of  the  craters  of  volcanoes.  This  Hea  is  now 
pretty  much  exploded  amongst  intelligent  miners.  It  is  evident  that  the 
gold  originally  lay  in  the  quartz  mines,  and  has  been  loosened  by  the  ac- 
tion of  fire  decomposing  the  quartz,  and  by  abrasion  of  (he  atmosphere 
and  water.  In  evidence  of  this  it  will  be  observed  that  in  those  sections 


i-ALIFOKXIA    IN    1850 — 51. 

richest  in  melted  or  deposit  gold,  there  are  but  few  gold  bearing  quartz 
veins,  and  those  bearing  evidence  of  great  heat,  while  in  those  locations 
rich  in  quartz  veins,  there  is  but  little  surface  gold,  and  that  very  fine,  and 
generally  found  on  the  bars  of  the  rivers,  and  along  their  banks.  The 
whole  country  has  at  some  day  been  in  a  state  of  fusion,  as  the  quantity 
of  cinders  found  in  the  gulches  bear  ample  testimony,  and  in  those  sec- 
tions where  the  heat  was  greatest,  the  quartz  became  intirely  decomposed, 
allowing  the  gold  to  drop  like  molten  lead  upon  the  slate  and  granite  sub- 
stratum, where  when  undisturbed  by  the  action  of  water,  it  now  remains 
imbedded  in  the  rock.  This  is  not  mere  opinion.but  a  statement  made  from 
personal  observation  in  working  in  deep  diggings,  where  it  was  evident 
Jiat  the  gold  had  not  been  disturbed  since  it  was  melted  from  the  quartz 
veins,  I  having  freeque.ntly  taken  pieces  from  the  slate  that  fitted  the  in- 
sterstices  as  closely  as  it  would  have  done  if  I  had  melted  it  myself 
and  turned  it  in  to  cool. 

The  best  mining  country  appears  to  be  a  strip  of  land  about  30  or  40 
miles  wide,  running  north  and  south,  or  nearly  so,  and  extending  the 
whole  length  of  California,  and  as  I  have  been  informed  on  reliable  au- 
thority as  far  north  as  Puget's  Sound,  where  gold  has  been  found  in  small 
quantities.  This  information  I  had  from  a  gentleman  of  intelligence  and 
observation,  from  Missouri,  Mr.  Sherwin,  who  spent  the  summer  of  1850 
at  that  place.  The  quartz  veins  also  lie  in  this  general  course,one  of  which, 
may  be  traced  hundreds  of  miles.  No  great  amount  of  gold  has  been 
found  out  of  this  district,  although  it  is  possible  that  in  time  it  may  be;- 
but  in  my  opinion,  if  the  original  stratum  of  quartz  veins  extended  back 
iiitotLe  niountains,that  it  there  ceases  to  be  the  surface,  and  becomes  the 
substratum;  if  this  proves  to  be  the  case,  there  is  no  estimating  the  min- 
eral wealth  of  California.  It  will  take  ages  to  exhaust  the  supply.  The 
supposition  that  this  stratum  does  reach  back  of  the  now  known  district, 
under  the  mountains,  is  a  reasonable  one,  as  the  rock  in  view,  generally, 
on  the  tirst  range  or  plains,  is  slate  ;  in  the  second  range,  quartz  veins  res- 
ting in  and  on  slate,  in  the  third  range  granite  ridges,  with  occasional 
spur  quartz  veins  in  view,  and  on  the  fourth  or  summit  range,  either  gran- 
ite, or  molten  rock,  or  lava  cooled  off,  as  it  was  cast  out  of  the  numerous 
extinguished  craters,California  furnishes  a  great  field  for  study  to  the  geol- 
ogist, and  much  may  be  learned  which  is  not  now  known,  and  which  will 
Le  useful  in  developing  her  vast  resources. 

Many  suppose  that  gold  was  not  known  here  until  discovered  by  the 
Americans.  This  I  am  disposed  to  doubt,  but  whether  known  to  civilized 
man, 'or  only  the  native  digger,  I  would  not  hazard  an  opinion.  A  discov- 
ery which  occurred  immediately  under  my  own  observatian,  satisfies  me 
that  the  gold  had  been  sought  for  many  years  before  that  time.  A  mi- 
ner in  sinking  a  hole  at  the  head  of  the  Spanish  Ravine,  which  had  been 
one  of  the  richest  in  California,  found  a  plain  gold  ring  of  rude  workman- 
ship, soldered  together  with  silver,  or  some  white  metal,  about  four  feet 
from  the  surface  of  the  ground.  On  the  inside  of  it  was  a  cross 
stamped  very  legibly,  indicating  that  it  was  made  by  a  Christian.  This 
was  in  new  diggings,  where  the  earth  Lad  never  been  disturbed  so  far  as 
appearances  would  indicate,  and  moreover  he  found  but  one  small  piece 
of  gold  besides  that  in  the  claim.  How  long  it  would  take  to  form  four 


CALI10RMA    IX    1S50 — 51. 

feet  of  solid  earth,  or  how  it  came  there,  no  one  can  say,  but  certainly  it 
must  take  a  great  number  of  years  for  that  depth  of  soil  to  form,  and  the 
ring  itself  shows  workmanship  of  an  early  and  rude  age. 

The  limited  space  of  this  work  necessarily  preclude%me  from  going  in 
lengthened  detail  of  incidents  and  description  of  California,  but  in  closing 
I  must  remark  that  California,  from  its  variety  of  climate,  which  is  so  great 
that  a  man  may  walk  in  a  day  from  the  region  of  snow  through  a  temper- 
ate climate  to  another  of  perpetual  summer,  where  the  flowers  cover  the 
earth,  and  render  the  air  fragrant  with  their  perfume.  From  its  great  re- 
sources in  gold  and  other  mineral  treasures,  and  its  boundless  forests  of 
pine  and  cedar,  from  its  great  amount  of  water  power,  and  its  great  agri- 
cultural and  commercial  advantages,  is  yet  destined  to  be  the  first  State 
in  the  Union,  as  it  now  is  the  most  pleasant  to  reside  in,  and  it  behooves 
our  government  to  so  cement  the  bonds  of  union  in  commercial  interests — 
while  now  cemented  by  the  feelings  of  "Padre  pais" — with  a  belt  of  iron 
from  ocean  to  ocean,  with  the  iron  horse  with  the  sinew  of  steel  and  breath 
of  fire  for  a  messenger,  that  the  time  may  not  come,  when  the  diverse  in- 
terests of  the  Pacific  states  may  induce  their  inhabitants  to  form  a  gov- 
ernment of  their  own. 

It  is  a  well  known  fact  in  history,  that  a  country  divided  by  a  griil  ni 
tural  barrier,  cannot  remain  long  under  one    government,  but    that   th^ir 
several  interests  call  for  separate  governments.     The  great  natural  barr 
er  between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  States  is,  the  Rocky  mnntains  .ind 
the  deserts,  which  can  only  be  overcome  by  railroads,  which  will  bring  the 
two  sides  of  the  continent  within  a  few  days  of  each   other,    and   nvvi-'r 
much  now  useless  territory  available,  either  in  an  agricultural,  manufactu- 
ring or  commercial  point  of  view.     Although  the  country,  from  th>^ 'Mis- 
souri river  to  the  Pacific,  is  quite  as  well  adapted  to  the  building  of  rail- 
roads  if  we  except  the  Nevada  Mountains,  and  this  exception  would  no< 

apply  to  the  Oregon  route — as  any  of  the  eastern  States,   yet  no  private 
company  can,  or  should  be  allowed  to  build  such  road,  but  it  should  b.--  i 
national' work,  and  subject  to  the  regulation  of  the    government,  for  the 
good  of  the  people,  when  completed.     If  it  should  be  built  by    a  private 
company,  it  would  become  one  of  the  greatest  and   worst  monopolies  in 
the  country,  rivaling   the  British  East   India  company  monopoly.     This 
may  not  be  so  evident  to  a  person  who  has  not  traveled  the  route,  but 
believe  that  every  thinking  man  who  has  traveled  it  will  agree  with   nv 
This  is  a  matter  which   it  were   well  for  our   legislators  to  consider  well 
and  act  upon  before  it  is  too  late,  for  it  will  soon  be  found  that  those  routes 
now  opening  through  Central  America  and  the  Isthmus,  will  not  answer 
the  wants  of  the  growing  commerce  with  the  Pacific,  and  every  year  is  oe 
menting  the  bonds  of  interest  between  California  and    Oregon,  :ind  the 
Spanish  countries  on  the  Pacific. 

But  I  must  bring  my  work  to  a  close,  and  bid  farewell  to  Caiir'jru  i 
capped  peaks,  its  beautiful  valleys,  its  flowety  plains,  its  rapula  river*  and  bro»d  Uyn 
Farewell  \  It  was  with  a  feeling  of  sadness,  that  I  turned,  on  tyie  last  rang*  of 
look  back' towards  those  busy  valleys  teeming  with  life  and  energy,  and  whan  on  iho 
planks  of  the  vessel  crossing  the  bar  into  the  broad  ocean,  I  turned  to  look  for  the  last 
time  on  the  Queen  City  of  the  Pacific,  embosomed  in  hil'.n,  by  UK»  •fwktuift  wa«or»  r<" 
the  Bay.    But  home,  family  and  fn-iyis,  -iull  mo  away.        PfciWMll  ReMW  .' 


Improved  Farms  fur  Bale, 

A   AM  A  A'    CHANCE  FOR    EMIGRANTS    AND    OTHERS 

ir/,sy//.\v,-  TO  PURCHASE  IMPROVED  FARMS. 
'I'hi'  undersigned,  Real  Estate  Agent,  has  constantly  at  his  disposal,  Im- 
proved Farms  of  various  size  and  quality  of  improvement,  which  he  offers 
lor  sale  to  Emigrants  and  others  as  cheap,  if  not  cheaper  than  can  be 
bought  in  the  Western  country.  These  farms  are  located  in  and  about 
Antioch,  Lake  county,  Illinois;  alsj  in  Mctlenry  county,  111.,  and  Kenosha 
county,  Wisconsin. 

They  arc  situated  iu  one  of  the  most  desirable  sections  of  the  western 
country,  arc  mostly  opening  timber  and  small  prahie.combining  the  advan- 
tages of  excellent  land,  easy  of  cultivation,  with  abundance  of  timber  and 
fuel,  and  good  water  on  the  same  farm.  The  country  is  well  watered  by 
the  Fox  and  O'Plain  rivers  and  sheir  branches,  and  by  numerous  small 
clear  lakes  of  excellent  water,  well  stocked  with  fish. 

The  country  around  is  one  of  the  best  stock  and  grain  countries  in  the 
world,  and  from  its  proximity  to  Lake  Michgan,  and  to  the  valuable  mar- 
kets, which  its  numerous  part  towns  afford,  and  the  cheapness  of  improved 
firms,  the  emigrant  cannot  find  a  more  desirable  country  to  locate  in. — 
All  who  are  desirous  of  purchasing  a  farm  will  find  it  for  their  interest 
to  give  the  undersigned  a  call  at  Autiooh,  Lake  county,  Illinois,  before 
buying  elsewhere. 

Antioeh  is  a  flourishing  village,  situated  in  the  north-west  corner  of  the 
county,  four  miles  east  of  Fox  River,  and  one  mile  south  from  the  Wiscon- 
sin State  line.  It  has  two  dry  goods  stores,  one  shoe  store,  one  hotel,  a 
saw-mill,  and  vorious  mechanics,  and  more  are  wanted.  Chicago  is.  dis- 
tant 48  miles  south  and  east;  Waukegan  17  miles  south  and  east; 
Kenosha  18  miles  north  and  east;  Racine  25  miles  north  and  east, 
Milwaukee  42  miles  north  and  cast,  consequently  Antioch  has  five 
lake  cities  within  a  day's  drive  of  it  There  are  five  flouring  mills, 
and  five  saw-mills  within  12  miles  of  the  village,  two  of  which  and 
three  saw-mills  are  within  fix  miles  of  it.  Besides  these,  a  com- 
pany has  been  formed  and  a  part  of  the  stock  subscribed  for  a  steam 
flouring  mill  to  be  built  in  the-  village,  and  a  Plank  Road  is  in  contempla- 
tion of  being  built  directly  from  Waukegan  to  Antioch.  The  country 
around  being  removed  from  the  raw  winds  near  Lake  Michigan,  and  at  the 
same  time  near  enough  to  it  for  all  practical  wants,  is  one  of  the  most  de- 
sirable to  locate  in  that  the  emigrant,  seeking  a  new  home  in  the  far  west, 
will  be  able  to  find,  combining  all  the  advantages  of  proximity  to  good 
markets,  and  good  lands,  good  society,  and  everything  that  the  heart  of 
man  can  desire.  Remember  to  call  on  the  undersigned,  who  will  give  you 
thn  eest  bargains  in  farms  that  can  be  got  in  this  country. 

The  following  is  the  route,  from  different  cities  on  the  Lake  to  Antioch: 
From  Chicago  to  Dutchman's  Point,  12  miles;  to  Indian  Creek  26  miles; 
to  Libertyville  '3~2  miles;  to  Antioch  48  miles. . 

From  Waukegauto  the  O'Plain  bridge,  four  miles;  to  Milburn  11 
miles;  to  Antioch  1*7.  miles.  From  Kenosha  to  Jackson's  Tavern  at  the 
O'Plain  river,  12  miles;  to  Brass  Balls  16  miles;  to  Antioch  22  miles 
I  via.  Bristol  nearer,  but  not  so  good  a  road.) 

From  Rucine  to  Martin  Stand,  (Ing-all's  Hotel)  on  Pleasant  Prairie,  nine 


miles;  to  Jackson's  Tavern  18  miles;  to  Brass  Balls  22  miles,  to  Autiud: 
28  miles. 

From  Milwaukee  to  Ive's  Grove  in  Yorkville,  20  miles  (throuo-h  the 
Milwaukee  woods;  To  Paris  29  miles;  to  Brass  Balls  37  miles;  to  Antioch 
43  miles. 

(Another  route  quite  as  good,  but  distance  greAr,  is  by  way  of  Ra- 
cine,  and  another  by  Rochester  on  the  Fox  river.  Antioch  is  25  miles 
from  Rochester,  Wis.) 

Antioch,  June  1852.  E.  S.  INGALLS. 


E.  S.  INGALLS, 

Attorney  and  Counsellor  at  Law,  County  Justice  of  the  Peace,  Notary 
Public,  Commissioner  of  Deeds,  <fcc.,  for  Wisconsin,  and  General  Land 
Agent  Will  give  prompt  attention  to  all  business  entrusted  to  his  care, 
in  Northern  Illinois  and  Southern  Wisconsin. 

Farms  constantly  on  hand  to  suit  purchasers,  of  all  descriptions,  sizes 
and  improvements.  Conveyancing  done  to  order.  Prompt  attention  will 
be  given  to  the  execution  of  deeds,  &c.,  and  the  taking  of  depositions  to 
be  used  in  any  part  of  Wisconsin,  his  seal  of  office  as  Commissioner  of 
Deeds  being  legal  authentication  of  his  official  acts  throughout  said  State. 

Collecting  attended  to  with  promptness.  Office  corner  of  Main  and 
Clay  streets,  Antiocb,  Lake  county,  Illinois. 


JOHN  H.  ELLIOTT, 

^  Wholesale  and  retail  dealer  in  Dry  Goods,  Groceries,  and  Crockery. 

leeps  constantly  on  hand  an  extensive  assortment  of  every  variety  of  Silk, 
roollen,  Worsted  and  cotton  goods,Groceries,Crockery  and  Hardware,ever 
called  for  in  the  western  country.  Will  purchase,  or  receive  in  exchange 
for  goods;  horses,  cattle,  wool,  grain,  or  any  other  product  for  tranship- 
ment at  as  good  prices  as  may  be  obtained  at  the  Lake  ports.  Store  un- 
der the  Antioch  Hall,  Main  street. 
Antioch,  Lake  Co.,  111. 


GEORGE  HALE, 
e  county,  Illlinois;  and  Dri 

particular  attention  to  drafting  in  its  various  branches.  Office  Main  street. 
Antioeh,  Lake  co.,  Illinois. 


LEROY  D.  GAGE, 

Justice  of  the  Peace,  Insurance  and  collecting  Agent.  Will  give  prompt 
attention  to  all  business  entrusted  to  his  care.  Office  corner  of  Main  and 
Clay  streets. 

Antioch,  Lake  co.  Illinois. 


WM.  H.  RING, 

Dealer  in  Dry  Goods,  Groceries,  Crockery,  Hard^re,  and  all  goods 
used  in  the  western  country.  Keeps  constantly  on  iMd  every  variety  of 
goods  and  wares  that  can  be  called  for.  Prompt  attention  always  given  to 
customers.  All  kinds  of  produce  taken*  in  exchange  for  goods.  Store  on 
Main  street,  Antioch,  Lake  co.  Illinois. 


GAGE  &  LEWIS, 
Physicians  &  Surgeons.     Particular  attention  given  to   optical  diseases 

I.EROY  D.    GAGE.  DANIEL  LEWIS. 

Office  corner  of  Main  and  Clay  streets. 
Antioch,  Lake  co.  Illinois. 


WILLIAM  L.   STEVENS, 

Attorney  and  Counsellor  at  Law.  Will  attend  promptly  to  all  busi- 
ness entrusted  to  his  care  in  Lake  and  McHenry  counties,  Illinois,  and 
Racine  and  Kenosha  counties,  Wisconsin.  Office  corner  of  Main  &  Clay  sts. 

Antiocb,  Lake  co.  Illinois. 


J.  B.  RICE, 

Architect.     Will  give  prompt  attention  to  all  applications  for  drafts  and 
plans  for  buildings  of  every  kind.     Office  on  Main  street. 
Antioch,  Lake  co.  Illinois. 


PARKS ,  FREEMAN  &  HAINES, 
Attornies  and  Counsellors  at  Law,  and  Solicitors  in  Chancery. 

Waukegan,  Illinois. 

Will  practice  in  the  Courts  of  Lake,  Cook,  and  McHenry  counties. — 
Prompt  attention  will  be  given  to  the  collecting  and  securing  of  demands 
in  Illinois  and  Wisconsin.  Also  to  the  sale  and  purchase  of  real  estate, in- 
vestigation of  titles,  payment  of  taxes,  <fec.  The  best  of  reference  wilt  ba 


c.  c.  PARKS, 


JAS.    FREEMAN, 


1  i  If 


CARD,  AND  JOB 


OFFICE  iy  DEWEY'S  BRICK  BLOCK, 

"&       -TIHGTOK  STSIIT 
""  UKEGAN,  ILLINOIS.   ' 

ie  above  establishment   respectfully   announce 
jy^-e  constantly  making  addition,   to  tifeir  S3 

.      Job  Type,   Bordering  Ac,, 

execute  every  variety  of  Book,  CM*  and  Job  pnntin^ 
^r  office  in  the  WesV  and  on  reasonable  Cf 


*T™i.\Gor,»  AIVD  i^r  COLORS 

;ieand.t  correspondingp.ee,       PrintSg  done 


e  country  cither  for  Blanks  or  Job  work  will