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OP
A VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA,
IN
i§i6 and i§i6.
WITH
SOME ACCOUNT OF THE MISSIONARY SETTLEMENTS
OF THE
isrs^a^isiD ©mis^siiBiii^s
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
BY THE REV. C^I. LATROBE.
NEW- YORK :
PUBLISHED B¥ JAMES EASTBURN AND CO.
AT THE LITERARY ROOMS, BROADWAY.
Clayton Si Kingsland, Printers.
1818.
TO
V
MY DEAR CHILDREN^
CHARLOTTE LOUISA,
PETER, ANNA AGNES, JOHN ANTES, CHARLES iOSEPIJ,
BENJAMIN FREDERIC,
My dear Children,
IT was at your particular request^ that I wrote the fol-
lowing circumstantial account of my visit to South Africa. Knowing
how deeply interested you felt in every thing relating to your Father^
and that the summary account of my proceedings, contained in letters^
would not satisfy you, 1 was encouragedy under all circumstances ^ to
persevere,
I did not then expect to be called upon to publish this Journal^
which, though now given to the Public, I yet consider as dedicated td
you. If its publication requires any apology^ I am sure that you wilt
admit any thai lean make, either for its style, its details, want of ar--
rangement, occasional repetitions, or the freedom with which I have
stated to you my sentiments and opinions on various subjects.
My official report was immediately sent to those to whom it belonged ;
but as you all delight in the success of the service in which I was engaged^
I have introduced a pretty full account both of the external construction ^
and internal state, of a Mission of the United Brethren among the
He then.
Receive it, therefore, as a mark of my paternal affection, and as a
testimony of my gratitude to God, for having blessed me with children,
whose filial duty, love and confidence, I have hitherto uninterruptedly
enjoyed, and of whom I may cherish that firm trust, that theya^ve not only
MY children^ but *' the children of God, by faith in Christ Jesus.^'
C. L LATROBET.
PREFACE.
The Directors of the Missions among Heathen nations, esta^
blished by the Church known by the name of Unitas Fratrunij
or United Brethren, having been frequently requested by the
missionaries at Gnadenthal and Groenekloof, near the Cape of
Good Hope, to send a person, duly authorized, to visit those
settlements, I was appointed to that service ; and, on my return,
delivered in an official report of my transactions. I have, how-
ever, been desired by many well-wishers to the Missions, and
others, to publish the following narrative, originally written for
the information of my family and friends.
One object of my visit was to assist in making some arrange-
ment with the Government of the Colony regarding the security
of the Missionary Settlements of the United Brethren.
The beneficial influence of Christianity in enlightening and
civilizing Heathen nations, of which the Mission among the Hot-
tentots at the Cape furnished the most convincing proofs, being
generally acknowledged, Government had expressed a wish^
VI PREFACE.
that a third Settlement, under the superintendence of the
Brethren, might be made in the interior ; and condescended to
give the necessary directions and powers for fixing upon a spot
of ground, as yet unoccupied, and suitable for that purpose*
On that account, it was desirable, that a journey should be made
through the Colony, in search of a convenient situation, if exist-
ing circumstances favoured the undertaking.
Though I felt myself insufficient for the execution of a com-
mission so extensive, and so important to the concerns of our
Church and its Missions, yet I ventured to accept the call, in
reliance on the help of God, to whose service I count it the
greatest favour, honour, and pleasure, to be enabled to devote
all the powers of soul and body ; and comforted by the con-
viction, that in all things " our sufficiency is of God."
This Journal was written, as leisure or hurry, rest or weari-
ness, quietude or interruption, or other contingencies and dis-
positions of mind permitted ; yet always with strict attention ta
truth, and a desire to avoid misrepresentation.
I LAV no claim to those qualifications which are required, if
the only object of the journey be the improvement of science ;
but, being habitually attentive to subjects connected with geo-
logy, mineralogy, and botany, some account of them will be
found in the course of this narrative, though I had frequent oc* j
casion to regret, that my acquaintance with them was not suf-
ficient to enable me to enter upon scientific description. To
my friend, J. W. Burchell, Esq. I am indebted for the scientific
names, added to the subjoined list. The best information upon
these subjects may be found in the works of Sparmann, Barrow,
PREFACE. Vll
Lichtenstein, Burchell, and others ; nor will the Colony ever
want men of ability, ready to explore its widely extended re-
gions, while it is in possession of a Government, ever attentive,
not only to the promotion of moral and political good within its
own dominion, but to the distribirtiop of the benefits of its dis-
coveries to all mankind.
^ © W B M A ILa
CHAPTER I.
Various Occurrences and Remarks during the Voyage to the
Cape of Good Hope.
On the first of October, 1815, at eight in the morning, we
left Gravesend with a fair wind and fine weather, and in
the evening came to an anchor in Margate roads, to
await the return of the tide.
On the 2d early we proceeded, and were fortunate
enough to get round the South Foreland, with a fair
breeze at north-west. The clearness of the weather gave
us a good view of the coasts of England and France as
we passed between Dover and Calais, and the state of
the wind permitting our keeping near our own shores, we
were much gratified by the appearance of the rocks,
headlands, towns, and villages, as they successively pre-
sented themselves to view.
3d. The wind veered round to the south-west, and to-
wards night rose considerably. The motion of the ship
became troublesome, but as our captain was determined,
if possible, to keep the sea, every exertion was used by
tacking and otherwise, to proceed against contrary
winds.
Passing by the Isle of Wight on the 4th, the wind had
so much increased, that but for a providential shift in our
favour, we should have been compelled to put into some
port. Nothwithstanding the unpleasant situation, in
which, as persons unaccustomed to the sea, we found
1
JOURNAL OF A
ourselves placed, and a secret wish to be delivered from
it, our desire to proceed was so great, that we all thank-
ed God, that we had met with so good a sea-boat, keep-
ing so close to the wind, and so determined and skilful a
conductor. The wind abating; towards morninp*, we soon
forgot the troubles of the night, and spent the
5th. Mostly on deck. In the afternoon, however, the
weather assumed a more unfavourable appearance, and
threatened a stormy night. Until two in the morning it
blew hard. I staid on deck, beholding with astonishment
the foaming surface of the troubled ocean, till the vio-
lent rain drove me down. 1 cannot deny, that in the
mind of a landsman, the pleasure, occasioned by the no-
velty and magnificence of such an exhibition, is intermix-
ed with some degree of fear, often amounting to an ap-
prehension of danger, where in fact there is no sufficient
cause. As it w^as in my cabin that I found my imagina-
tion most active in conjuring up these needless perplexi-
ties, my station in rough weather during the whole voyage
was chiefly on deck, where the courage and skill of the
captain, and frequent conversation with him and our fel-
low passenger Mr. Buck, who generally kept me compa-
ny, dissipated all fears. The Start point was the last
land we saw through the misty atmosphere, and I now
took leave, for the present, of dear Old England, with a
comfortable assurance in my mind, that by God's mercy,
I should return to it in safety. This assurance never
forsook me during the whole time of my absence, and I
mention it with peculiar thankfulness, as it kept me always
cheerful and contented, whether at sea or on land, and
free from those misgivings, which, though considered as
the mere work of imagination, often affect our peace and
happiness even more than real evils.
6th. Though we had all pretty well recovered from
sea sickness, yet with me, it left behind a total want of
appetite, which during the whole voyage, prevented my
partaking of much food. But though after some time, I
felt myself weakened in body by such abstinence, I partly
ascribe to it that degree of hveliness which I preserved
in my mind, and the pleasure I took, in being constantly
occupied with reading or writing. It was not till after
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA.
this day, that we could make some regular arrangement
as to family worship, most of us having been hitherto too
often confined to our cabins, to allow of our meeting to*
gether. From this time, immediately after breakfast, we
read the portions of Scripture appointed in our Church
for each day, and sang some verses in connexion with
their contents, offering up praise and prayer to Him,
" Whose eyes run to and fro throughout the whole earth,
to show Himself strong in the behalf of them whose heart
is perfect towards Him." Every evening we met for the
same purpose, and on festivals and memorial-days called
to mind our fellowship with our Brethren at home and
abroad, by a short address delivered to the company on
the subject of commemoration. Besides the daily wor^
ship, we met regularly on Sundays about ten o'clock in
the morning, when w^e read the Litany, and heard a dis-
course, either read or delivered by a missionary, with
suitable hymns, as usual in our congregations. On these
occasions our hearts were often filled with renewed com-
fort and confidence, and we may truly bear Avitness to
the fulfilment of our Saviour's gracious promise given
unto his disciples, and to all them, "Who, through their
word should believe on Him," that, " where two or three
are met in His name, He will be in the midst of them,
even unto the end of the world." And not only when
thus assembled, but when we entered into our closets and
directed our prayers and supplications to our heavenly
Father in secret, we experienced of a truth, that His
mercies are not confined to time and place and form, but
that He hears and answers all, who in every place, and
under any circumstances, call upon and worship Him in
sincerity and truth. We not only met with no interrup-
tion from the captain, the crew, and our fellow passen-
ger, but rather with every degree of attention and indul-
gence ; nor were we ever prevented by the state of the
weather from regularly attending to the daily service.
I had provided myself with an assortment of books,
some of which I had not had leisure to read at home, and
to-day, began to examine my stock and put them in order
in my cabin. The first parcel I opened contained several
pamphlets, chiefly German, sent to me by my friend, Mr.
JOURNAL OF A
Ackerman, for the amusement of the company. Most of
them related to the political affairs of Germany, the bat-
tle of Leipsic, &c. containing much interesting informa-
tion, recent and important, though the late escape of Bo-
naparte from Elba, his invasion of France, first success-
es and final overthrow at Waterloo, has placed even the
great events of 1813 and 1814 in the back ground of the
picture. But who that considers the dealings of God
with mankind, can contemplate the events of the last five-
and-twenty years, without being humbled under His
mighty hand, and giving to Him alone all the glory of
our deliverance. To him who thus reads the history of
the late wars, it will prove a useful lesson.
While we were in the channel and in the bay, vessels
of various descriptions were continually in sight, but we
now seemed left alone.
9th. A shoal of porpoises surrounded the ship. They
were passing from west to east, and amused us much by
their playfulness and the astonishing swiftness of their
motions. They are said to be forerunners of a storm.
Towards evening the wind rose, with frequent drizzling
showers and flying black clouds. It increased so much,
that the appearance of the sea after sunset became ra-
ther terrific. The waves frequently broke over the fore-
part of the ship, and sometimes even approached us,
as we sat on the quarter-deck. For above two hours
the moon shone bright, every now and then seeming
to step behind some dark swift-flying cloud, and to
come forth again with redoubled lustre. The foaming
edges of the waves appear at a distance like long lines
of phosphoric light, chasing each other, and w^henever a
wave dashes over the decks, the sparks it contains run
with the water to and fro, as the ship rolls from side to
side. About eleven o'clock, assistance was called for
in the cabin, as the trunks and other articles had broken
loose and were sliding backwards and forwards on the
floor. The door of the pigsty bein^ forced open, the
poor animals ran in great consternation backwards and
forwards on deck, and one having the misfortune to fall
headlong down the cabin stairs, the noise of its fall and
its cries added to the terror of the scene. The wind
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA.
however being fair, we were thankful, amidst all the
restlessness occasioned by the ship's motion, that we
were getting fast forward.
10th and 11th were tolerably quiet days, but on the
12th the wmd turned against us, and though above 240
miles off the coast of Portugal, the captain thought it un-
safe to proceed farther towards the south-east, the di-
rection in which we were then steering, and towards
evening tacked and stretched towards the north-west,
the wind from the southward rising, and every now and
then squalls with rain increasing its force. The sea
was now in a terrible ferment and assailed the ship on
all sides, but particularly from the north-west, from
whence a heavy swell came rolling towards us in tre-
mendous surges. We ran under close-reefed top-sails,
keeping as near as possible to the wind, against a head-
sea ; but at two in the morning the wind shifting, put
about agam and kept on our course. The morning
turned out fine, and a very large shoal of porpoises
played about the ship.
When I sometimes sit on deck, surveying this im-
measurable deep, I think, surely. He that made the
sea and all that is therein, did not intend that it should
be only the playground of the many different tribes of
fishes that flit through its upper regions and skim alono-
Its surface, but the habitation also of innumerable crea^
tures of His hand, that walk upon its bottom, probably
with shapes, properties and powers, unknown to us. I
am ready to exclaim with the Psalmist, « O Lord ! how-
manifold are Thy works ! In wisdom hast Thou made
them all : The €arth is full of Thy riches. So is this
great and wide sea, wherein are things creeping innumera-
ble, both small and great beasts^ Ps. civ. 24, 25. It is
well for them, that we have not discovered the means of
hauling them up, to make their heads, bodies and tails
assist in furnishing the tables of our citizens with new
dainties. They, at least, live undisturbed by that de-
vourer-general, Man. His pretension is vain, to claim
the dominion over all the beasts of the field, the fowls of
the air, and the fishes of the sea ! That dominion was
given to him in his state of innocence, before death came
JOURNAL UP A
into the world by sin. Then indeed all interior crea-
tures looked up to him with love, respect, and willing
subjection, as tp a friend and patron. But now the first
question commonly asked by a child, when it sees or
hears of any living creature, walking, flving, or swim-
mino-, is, '' is it good to eat .^" Many commentators seem
to have entirely forgotten, that by the fall of man he lost
his dominion over other creatures, and when the Lord
repeats the declaration of His will concerning man after
the flood, speaks no more o{ dominion^ but of"' the dread
of man^' upon them, with permission to use them for
food.
During the following days, the weather was calm, and
the rolling of the ship, occasioned by the north-west
swell, proved very unpleasant. We were engaged in
preparing letters to send home by any passing ship we
might meet.
J 5th early, a sloop hove in sight, which turned out to
be a Dane, bound from Malaga to some Danish port.
The captain went on board, committed our letters to
the master, and made an exchange of some Hollands for
melons and raisins, which, as our stock of fresh provisions
was low, was of service to us.
Reading Miller's Life of Huet, a French bishop in
the seventeenth century, I found the following pas-
sage, which, perfectly according with the sentiments of
every true Protestant Christian, I hope I shall not be
blamed for inserting a translation of it. The vene-
rable prelate, speaking of some works, written by him
in the monastery of Aunay, proceeds — " But long be-
fore I occupied myself with these subjects, I had
conceived a much more important undertaking, to
which^ indeed, more than to any thing else all my
studies and contemplations hitherto had a reference.
This was an Exposition and Elucidation of the Ho*^
ly Scriptures. From my childhood, such a venera-f
tion for its divine origin, and such a high estimation of
the worth and internal excellence of this book had taken
root within me, that, though my youthful spirit delighted
and almost revelled in the beauties of the fine arts and
the mathematics, it always returned with pleasure to
li
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA.
these sacred records, as feeling itself in them at home,
and in the former only as a wanderer and pilgrim. And
yet, at that time, I had no knowledge of the Hebrew
language, and could not extend my research beyond the
narrow limits of the vulgate. But having broken through
these bounds, and, as it were, standing at the fountain it-
self, my soul felt an increasing relish for this study, and
I believed, that I now saw the mysteries of heaven with-
out a veil.
" My mcreasing and more intimate acquaintance with
those sacred books convinced me, that, even if they were
not of divine origin, which faith teaches us to believe
them to be, and which we know by internal conviction,
yet both their antiquity and the immense number of ex-
traordinary, mighty, and marvellous subjects, which are
to be found in this inexhaustible treasury, and nowhere
else, render them worthy, that we should devote all our
care, diligence, meditations, and nightly lucubrations, to
the study and understanding of them alone. Being,
therefore, now released from the bondage of the court,
I again betook myself to the study of the Hebrew, com-
bining with it that of the Syriac and Arabic, ajid because
the knowledge of languages, requires long and repeated
exercise, I never suffered one day to pass, betw^een the
years 1681 and 1712, without employing one or two
hours upon it, being a period of thirty-one years ; nor did
I ever suffer business, journeys, or even illness to inter-
fere with this resolution. Thus, during that period of
time, I have read the whole Old Testament four-and-
twenty times, with the greatest delight, and essential be-
nefit to my soul." This worthy man was a devoted Ro-
man Catholic, and speaks with the greatest gratitude of
St. Genevieve, by whose kind intercession he was re-
stored from a dangerous illness, and to whom also, w^hen
he first took orders, he commended himself for assistance
in a faithful discharge of his priestly office, by reading
his first mass at her tomb, in a vault of her church at
Paris, Thus, the most excellent and enlightened men
of the age, such as Huet was, in his day and station, may,
in certain points, remain quite in the dark, till the Spirit
of God, by a progressive work, grants the rays of his
g JOURNAL OF A
light and t.utli to shine upon them. Such reflections
should make us more candid and forbeanng, in judging
of the state of men's minds in other persuasions, dittering
from our own, conscious that we ourselves have yet much
to learn, before we attain to perfection.
17th. Two vessels hove in sight. The first hoisted
Endish colours, and we edged towards her. She proved
to be a Poole ship from Newfoundland, bound to Valen-
cia in Spain. Mr. Buck, being a native of Poole, found
an acquaintance in her captain, and gave him some very
welcome information concerning his family, a circumstance
which afforded us all much pleasure This morning I
be-an to read Montgomery's " World before the Flood.
There is a strain of genuine piety in it, which cannot tail
to edify all unprejudiced readers. I see no reason tor
his making such an humble apology for the fiction.
18th Fly in ^ fish made their first appearance, and as
on that account it was hoped that dolphins were not far
off, in pursuit of these defenceless creatures, we pre-
pared with great eagerness of expectation to revenge
the cause of the pursued, by an attack on the pursuers;
in which, however, we were disappointed, for not a sin-
gle fish approached the ship. The wind was contrary,
and we made but little way.
19th. In the forenoon, a shoal of bonnettas kept for
some time playinj? about the ship, and many attempts
were made to strike them, but in vain. In the afternoon,
a laro-e turtle was observed asleep, and floating close to
the ship. The jolly-boat was immediately lowered down,
and the captain and two sailors set off with all speed
after her, but by some mismanagement missed their
snatch, and she escaped.
I read to-day a well-written characteristic of Count
Zinzendorf in manuscript. The author, Mr. Loretz, sent
me this piece about twenty-five years ago, together with
Miller's life of that nobleman, which, but for its tiresome
digressions, I should have read with pleasure. He wished
me to furnish an English translation; but the want of
leisure, and a consciousness of my inability to do justice
to the subject, induced me to decline it. I should, how-
ever, think myself highly favoured, at a proper time,
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 9
^nd in a satisfactory manner, to contribute to rescue the
memory of so great and excellent a man as Count Zin-
zendorf from that unmerited obloquy, which has been
cast upon him by base and wicked enemies, and too of-
ten repeated by persons misguided or misinformed. The
apologies made for various expressions in his writings,
which appear eccentric, or even incorrect, seem to have
satisfied most objectors on the continent, but in England
have not as yet been much attended to.
20th. Certain rocks, marked in our charts as lying to
the north of Porto Santo, and called the eight stones,
were to-day an object of some anxiety to the captain;
and though their existence is not fully proved, he kept a
sharp look out for them by night and day. Our dead
reckoning was by this time so much at variance with the
chronometer, that, by the captain's account, there was a
hundred, and by the mate's no less than a hundred and
forty miles difference between them.
On the 21st, the island of Madeira appearing far to
the westward, estabhshed the truth of the chronometer's
reckoning, to the great satisfaction of the captain. We
moved on but slowly, with light breezes. The time,
however, passed pleasantly, as I was continually em-
ployed in reading, writing, or agreeable and interesting
conversation with my fellow passengers. This evening 1
finished reading Risler's life of the Rev. August Gottlieb
Spangenberg, a bishop of our Church. As we are apt
to compare ourselves with those, of whose life and cha-
racter we read a description, more especially if there be
some degree of similarity in our professions and occupa-
tions, I cannot help confessing, that this narrative led me
into a train of reflection, very humbling to my own heart.
Compared to this extraordinary man, I sink into nothing !
What indefatigable application of all the energies and
powers of soul and body, even from his earliest years,
to acquire knowledge of every kind ! What eagerness to
explore the truth; and what zeal and fortitude in prac-
tising that which he had gained in theory ! And when he
had found Jesus to be that Glorious Being, " in whom
are hid all the treasures of wisdom and knowledge," with
what full purpose of heart did he not ^- count all things
2
10 JOURNAL OF A
but as dung and dross, for the excellency of the know-
ledge of Jesus and Him crucified !" How .strictly did he
watch over himself, and seek in all things, by word and
work, to glorify the n-ame of his Saviour ! He was,
indeed, a pattern and ensample to the flock. While I
admired him, in all his principles and practice, and in the
multiplicity of his labours in the Lord's vineyard, I could
not help recollecting with much regret, that I did not
better improve the acquaintance 1 was favoured to have
with so distinguished a servant of God, during my resi-
dence at Barby from 1776 to 1779, when, on account of
the friendship he bore to my grandfather, H. Antes in
Pennsylvania, and to my late excellent father, he showed
particular attention to me. But though I highly respect-
ed him, I did not then know how sufficiently to appre-
ciate the inestimable value of the notice and counsel of
such a man. He also honoured me with his correspond-
ence, after my return to England ; until his departure out
of this world, in his 90th year, deprived our Church of
one of its most distinguished ministers.
22d. Between three and four in the morning, the watch
announced the approach of a schooner, which, on hailing,
proved to be an American, bound to Boston. The cap-
tain and Mr. Buck went on board and purchased some
boxes of raisins. The weather was remarkably fine and
bright, but calm. The sailors call this preliminary state
of calms and baffling winds, previous to entering into the
regular trade-winds, the dolldrums^ from which we pray-
ed that we might soon be delivered.
21th. At daybreak, land was discovered towards the
south-east, being the Salvages, generally considered as
belonging to the Madeira islands. They are uninhabit-
ed. The rocks, called Piton rocks, were likewise in
sight. The highest of them is a square looking jagged
precipice, connected, by a dangerous reef, v^ith two
others, which stand singly, and are not so much ele-
vated. At noon, a strange sail appeared in sight, under
Spanish colours. We shaped our course towards her,
and Mr. Buck conveyed some letters on board. She
proved to be the Constantia from Lancerota, one of the
Canaries, bound to Ireland for provisions. In the even-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 11
ing, the Peak of TenerifFe was seen, bearing south«
south-east, but surrounded with clouds. Towards night.
Brother Clemens was seized with a violent spasm ; the
pain of which increasing, exceedingly alarmed us. As
he was convinced from former experience, that nothing
but bleeding would relieve him. Brother Stein took
courage to perform the operation; and though it was
the first time he attempted it, without the direction of a
surgeon,* it pleased God to give him success, and the
patient was soon relieved from immediate danger,
though several days were required to complete his re-
covery. We all felt truly thankful to our Almighty Pre-
server, to whom our prayers were directed for help in
so distressing and dangerous an emergency.
25th. Flying clouds and squalls seemed to announce a
change of weather, and deliverance from the calms we
had hitherto suffered. Whenever it cleared up, the
Peak of. Teneriflfe, at about eighty miles distance, ap-
peared beautifully lodged among clouds passing along
its middle and lower region. Palma, another of the Ca-
nary islands, was also in sight; but our hopes of a
change disappeared towards evening, and, except two
or three light breezes of short duration, the calm con-
tinned. The appearance of the sky at sunset was mar-
vellously grand. Large masses of clouds, in lines, sha-
ded with a bright bhieish gray colour, showing through
various openings the brilliant orange, purple, and green-
ish tints of the unclouded atmosphere beyond them, ho-
vered above the western horizon, which, down to the
edge of the sea, glowed with the most vivid gold and
crimson hue. This grand picture was reflected by num-
berless short rippling waves, as far as the eye could
reach. Above the dark mass of clouds a bright purple
tinged the heavens as high as the zenith. All seemed
stationary and silent, no wind whatever accompanying
* It is usual with the Brethren, that when Missionaries are sent
abroad, some instruction is given respecting the treatment of patients
of different descriptions, and the use of medicines. Brother Stein had
thus acquired considerable skill in several branches of surgery, which
proved useful on many occasions.
12 JOURNAL OF A
the clouds. In these latitudes, we had frequently a simi-
lar display of beauty in the evening sky.
26th. A breeze sprung up, but not in our favour. We
tacked to the north-west and south-east all day. The
islands were beclouded ; though now and then TenerifFe
with its Peak showed itself partially uncovered. The
heat was excessive, but the breeze made it bearable. I
was engaged in reading a German translation of Bai^
row's account of his travels through the Cape colony^
which, as formerly, afforded me much pleasure and in-
struction. He has made honourable mention of our set-
tlement at Bavian's Kloof, now called Gnadenthal, which
in 1798 was yet in its infancy. To a botanist, his work
is peculiarly valuable.
28th. We passed so close to the westward of Palma,
that we could distinctly discern every object on shore.
When the day dawned, its summit was covered with
thick morning clouds and vapours. As they ascended
or withdrew, the precipitous declivities of the mountains
and rocks opened to view. The sun, rising behind the
island, soon dispelled the clouds, and illumined its upper
regions, the outline of which exhibited rocky ridges and
glens, apparently stony and barren ; but towards the
west, much wood covers the more gentle slopes. Two
promontories form a small bay, with a fruitful coast, a
town and landing place. The road is unsafe in wester-
ly winds. About noon, we were again becalmed, while
a sail to windward enjoyed a delightful breeze.
29th. During the night, we had made some progress,
and but for baffling winds in the vicinity of these islands,
should now have reaped the benefit of the trade-wind.
After breakfast, a heavy squall came on from the west,
with violent rain, which put us in considerable motion.
When it subsided, we held our usual Sunday's worship,
but had hardly finished, when we were assailed by
another squall, more lasting than the former. Above two
hundred gallons of rain-water were collected, and the
ducks being let out of their coops, enjoyed a splashing.
There was now a sufficient quantity of water for all our
live stock, which hitherto had been served rather too
sparingly, considering the heat of the weather. This
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 13
last squall brought on a fresh north-east breeze, and our
captain began to hope, that we had at length gained the
trade-wind. All sails were set, and we proceeded with
great swiftness, overtaking a large bark and a brig, the
former English and the latter Portuguese ; towards sun-
set, our hopes again proved vain ; the Avind veered round
to the south:, and dark clouds rose, with much lightning,
in the western quarter.
30th. The western horizon appeared uncommonly
gloomy, and an almost incessant deep roar of thunder,
threatened an approaching storm. After some doubt as
to the course the clouds would take, they began to rise
swiftly towards us. All hands were summoned on deck,
and the ship prepared to meet the w^orst; but the storm
was more terrific in its approach than in its presence.
The sea was indeed for some time extremely agitated,
and rose in considerable waves. Some strong flashes of
lightning, accompanied by thunder not very loud, illumi-
ned our cabin, into which the heavy rain had driven us ;
but in about an hour, the wind fell, and we were yet
more annoyed by the return of the old cdm, when the
ship, becoming unmanageable by the rudder, was pushed
about in any direction the swell gave her. Immediately
after sunset, it began again to lighten all round the ho-
rizon.
31st. We made good way with a favourable wind till
noon, when it again fell calm.
I had been so much pleased with the second little vo-
lume of Risler's Select Narratives, containing an account
of the Spirit of the Church of the United Brethren, im-
mediately after its renovation in 1722, that I resolved to
translate it into English.
In the evening, and during the whole night, it lightened
incessantly. I sat long on deck, very much delighted
with the grandeur of the scene.
November 1st. I began to-day to read such parts of
the Spectator as appeared to me most interesting.
Addison certainly had a reUgious feeling, and now and
then expresses himself with truth and effect upon reli-
gious subjects : but I cannot help remarking, that, had
he possessed a clearer view of the great price, paid by
"^Ife^ii^
14 JOURNAL OF K
our Saviour to redeem us from the vain conversation re-
ceived by tradition from our forefathers, which is full of
sin, and leads to sin and the love of the world, he would,
in many of his papers, have avoided subjects and discus-
sions tending only to excite those passions in the human
breast, which had better be kept dormant. Indeed, as a
principal party engaged in that work, he may be consi-
dered accountable for the whole of what his associates
have said in their different essays. Often, however,
much instruction on religious topics may be gained from
the perusal of his writings. I was particularly struck
and pleased with the conclusion of a paper, written
against vulgar prejudices and superstitions, by which
foolish and idle people frequently torment their brains.
I cannot help transcribing it : ''I have (says he) but
one way of fortifying my soul against those gloomy pre-
sages and terrors of mind ; and that is, by securing to
myself the friendship and protection of that Being, who
disposes of events, and governs futurity. He sees at one
view the whole thread of my existence, not only that part
of it which I have already passed through, but that
which runs forward into all the depths of eternity.
When I lay me down to sleep, I recommend myself to his
care ; when I wake, I give myself up to his directions.
Amidst all the evils that threaten me, I will look up to
him for help, and question not, but he will either avert
them or turn them to my advantage. Though I know
neither the time nor the manner of death I am to die, I
am not at all solicitous about it ; because I am sure, that
he knows them both, and that he will not fail to comfort
and support me under them."
Nothing need be added to this beautiful declaration of
hope and trust in God, except that I pray, that it may
always be made by me and mine, under a firm conviction,
that it is only in Jesus Christ our Saviour as God mani-
fest in the flesh, that we can have any just view of God's
mercy, and any assurance of favour and acceptance with
Him. I w^ould not wish to repeat it as a moral heathen
or deist might do, but as a Christian worshipper.
In the evening, a bright meteor appeared in the north,
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA^ 15
passing from west to east, and it lightened a great deal
during the night.
3d and 4th. We were favoured with good wind, and
made tolerable progress. Two brigs hove in sight, and
great numbers of flying fish skimmed along the surface of
the water, or flew from the top of one wave to the other,
pursued by bonnettas or dolphins. When the weather
was fine, the captain always contrived to keep his men
employed; they were now engaged in making anew
mainsail, and the black carpenter in building a new ca-
bouse or kitchen, for his black brother, the cook. In
the evening, some flying fish fell on board. Their bodies-
are shaped somewhat like a small herring, with large
eyes. Their wings, or flying fins, reach nearly to the taiL
and spread three inches ; but when dry, they can no
longer support the fish above water.
5th. At daybreak, land was seen. It was Sal, one of
the Cape de Verde Islands, and presented itself through
a hazy atmosphere, with two high peaks and some lower
mountains to the north of them, a low land running out
to the south. The breeze had freshened during the
night, and the sea was rather turbulent, the spray often
flying over the ship. After our morning service, the
captain informed us, that the island of Bonavista, thirty
miles from the former, was in sight. This island is the
most picturesque of any we had hitherto seen. Coming
from the north, its first appearance was that of two steep
hills enclosing a lower range ; but as we sailed along
its eastern coast, several ranges of mountains, of beauti-
ful shapes and diiFerent heights, one after the other,
opened to view. Some were cones, with craters on their
rocky summits. The country below them^ though here
and there showing patches of a green colour, had, in
general, a very barren appearance. The haziness of
the weather would not permit us distinctly to discover
any smaller objects. The waves also sometimes swelled
to such a height, as to hide the island for a moment from
our view ; but as we passed swiftly along, we were much
amused by the continual shifting of the scene, exhibiting
the mountains in ever-varying positions. We were how-
ever disappointed in our hopes of seeing Mayo, another
16 JOURNAL OF A
of these islands, a thick mist overspreading the horizon
about sunset. The strong favourable wind continued
all night.
6th. This morning we had a very pleasing exhibition
of the wonderful agility and swiftness of a host of bottle-
nosed porjDoises, coming from the north. For nearly half
an hour they played and frisked about the ship's bows,
leaping out of the water, pursuing each other in all di-
rections, tumbling tail over head, and performing all
kinds of tricks. They seemed perfectly happy, and bade
defiance to all attempts to pierce them. They were, by
guess, from three to four feet long. It lightened again
in the evening, and during the nighty but the wind conti-
nued to favour us.
8th. We were proceeding with a steady breeze in fine
weather, wlien about noon the sky became overcast, and
very black clouds began to rise from the south-east. The
captain coming on deck, rather alarmed us, by the haste
in which he gave orders to shorten sail. The swiftness
also with which the clouds came rolling on, was remark-
able, and they brought with them such a sudden gust of
wind, that the utmost exertion hardly saved the royals
and studding sails from being blown away, before they
could be taken in. Some mischief was done to the rig-
ging, and we could hardly stand on deck. For about
an hour, we ran furiously through the water, when ano-
ther cloud, much more black and threatening than the
former, appeared in the south. Its approach was an-
nounced by several claps of thunder of increasing loud-
ness, and we prepared for a heavier squall, when, after
a quarter of an hour's violent rain, it suddenly fell calm.
Then, however, our troubles began, for the sea having
become extremely agitated by the fury of the former
gale, the swell was tremendous; and as there was no
wind to carry us forward, the ship, being at its mercy,
plunged very hard. A wave struck her astern, broke
two of the cabin windows, overstreamed all the books,
papers, and whatever lay on the lockers, and filled the
floor some inches high with water. Fortunatelv not
much injury was done, but we were obliged to put in
dead-lights, and glad to retreat on deck out of so hot
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 17
and dark a dungeon. Our patience was now again put
to trial by the return of calms and light baffling winds,
hy the sailors called cat's-paws. In the evening, a hawk,
after flying long about the ship, perched on the fore-yard
near the fore-top, and was taken. She was a beautiful
bird. I protested against her destruction, as being con-
trary to all rules of hospitality, but could not save her.
9th. About three in the morning, a black cloud with
very vivid hghtnmg and loud thunder approached us, but
brought little either of wind or rain. More short squalls
assailed us during the day. A brig having appeared in
sight to the north-east, and proving to be a Portuguese,
bound to the Brazils, we sent a packet of letters on board,
which her captain promised to deliver safely.
In the evening, clouds came on with thunder and light-
ning, and while we were singing our evening-hymn,
several strong flashes illumined our little cell. But while
the elements seemed at war without, the peace of God
comforted our hearts within.
10th. The Portuguese brig, which had approached us
during the squall, tacked and stood to the westward.
This satisfied us that she was not bound to the coast of
Guinea for slaves, as those who had yesterday been on
board suspected. There is no doubt, however, that the
slave-trade is secretly carried on under various preten-
ces, notwithstanding the severity of the laws, and the
vigilance of government.
I read to-day a part of a "Collection of Anecdotes,''
in a German work, professedly written to promote mo-
rality. What pains are taken to adorn the dead body,
and make it look alive! to tie good fruit upon rotten
branches; and, like the prophets of Baal in the days of
Elijah, to expect fire from heaven sent by a god of man's
own making. The effects of the writings of sentimental
foreigners and their new-fangled systems of philosophy,
having so clearly proved of what value they are in re-
forming the minds and manners of mankind, by the late
commotions in the world, ought long ago to have excited
more attention to the truths of revelation, which declare
man to be by nature, " dead in trespasses and sins," and
unable to do good without a change of heart, wrought
3
J y JOURNAL OF A
by faith in Jesus Christ our Saviour. But both m this^
and in some other modern pubhcations, there is yet a
studied attempt to prove, that it does not signitj, whether
a man be a Christian, a Jew, a Turk, a Heathen, or a
Deist, if he but now and then do a good action, and show
himself less a slave of passion than others. Then, say
they, you are acceptable to God, and this is called en-
lightening ! May God in mercy preserve us from such
delusion !
I Ith. Poison having been spread about the lower part
of the ship to kill the rats, an intolerable smell kept me
awake great part of the night. The perisliing carcasses
of these creatures are surely a greater nuisance than
their existence. I repented, that I had complained some
days ago that one of them had run over my face in the
night.
13th. We encountered a heavy squall with thunder
and rain, by which we gained some gallons of sweet
water. This was the more acceptable, as for some time
past, the water in our casks sent forth a very offensive
smell, being hardly fit to drink, except when filtered
through a dripping-stone, made of Maltese fossil-lime-
stone.
16th. Flying fish and many kinds of sea-fowl appear-
ed in great numbers, and on the
17th, the captain, after many vain attempts both by
himself and the crew, had the good fortune to catch a
fish. It was an albicore, and had a flying fish in its sto-
mach. Its length was about two feet, its colour dark
green with darker stripes and spots on the back, its bel-
ly of the most brilliant mother of pearl, its mouth small,
the body narrow across the back, and about six inches
deep between back and belly, sloping off to an inch and
a half at the root of the tail. The latter is vertical and
forked. It had six fins, two on the breast, one on each
side, and two dorsal fins, from which, to the root of the
tail, six small triangular fins were placed in a row. It
was caught with a hook baited with feathers, which the
foolish gormandizing creature mistook and seized for a
flying fish. This evening a new mainsail was bent.
18th. We crossed the line, when the usual ceremonies
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 19
took place. Neptune and his wife appeared in the per-
sons of the black carpenter and the second mate, most
ridiculously apparelled and painted, a large grain repre-
senting the trident. His aquatic majesty declared his
great satisfaction, on being informed, that the vessel that
had the boldness to enter his dominions, belonged to his
old friends, the English, and kindly offered his services to
initiate us into his society, by shaving and sousing. The
ceremony was however dispensed with, in consideration
of sixteen bottles of Hollands, to be distributed among
the crew at a bottle a-day, lest they should be more hurt
than benefited by the gift. The cabin-boy submitted to
the operation. Being seated on a bar laid across a
large tub, and lathered with a composition of tar and
grease, he was duly shaved with a piece of an iron hoop,
and well soused, by three buckets of water poured over
his head. While I was pitying him on account of such
rough usage, he came to me into the cabin, and expressed,
with great glee, the satisfaction he now felt, in being
made a thorough seaman, free of all headlands, promon-
tories, &:c. whereas, before this initiation, freshmen must
pay fines, and submit to many other degradations. Con-
sidering the liberty always given on this occasion, the
crew behaved very orderly.
We dined to-day on the albicore, caught yesterday, and
found it excellent food. The flesh was white and brown ;
both parts equally good.
19th. In the evening, before the moon rose, the sea
abounded with large bright spots of apparently phospho-
ric light, or detached collections of those sparks, which,
singly, accompanied us every where.
20th. Several men of war birds flew about the ship.
Their bodies are not large, but their wings extend a great
way. Oldendorp, in his Account of the West Indies,
speaks of fourteen feet from tip to tip. Their bill is
pointed, and they pounce upon flying and other small
fishes with great dexterity and swiftness.
2 1st. For some days 1 have been feasting my mind on
Milton's Paradise Lost. To make any remarks on a
poem so sublime and unrivalled, may seem strangely im-
pertinent ; but, may I be permitted to say, that, whether
20 JOURNAL OF A
from my increased aversion to heathen mythology, or an
idea, that its subjects are here and there brought in,
chiefly as a display of classical knowledge, when quite
unnecessary, 1 felt as if this truly christian and evangeli-
cal poem was rather bespattered than ornamented by
these old fooleries. Now and then, I grant, they are
well introduced, when their absurdity is shown ; but am
I right in thinking, that the whole might have been as ex-
cellent, as classical, and as sublime, without much allu-
sion to such wretched nonsense ? 1 fear, however, that
to those, who consider the study of the ancient au-
thors and poets of Greece and Rome an essential pre-
paration for a work of this kind, it might have been a
sufficient cause to reject the whole poem, had it not
abounded with such classical allusions. More is the pi-
ty, that the infinitely more sublime and elevated language
of truth in the Bible should be so seldom imitated, and
be made to give way to the lying and silly devices of
idolatrous heathen. Nay, I fear that Milton's Paradise
Lost will by some be laid upon the shelf, as an old obso-
lete performance, merely because it sets forth the truth,
in showing the fall and depravity of man, and salvation
by faith in a crucified Saviour. The adulterous fondness
for the works of modern poetasters, celebrating the ex-
ploits of murderers and prostitutes, which has seized the
present generation, is a proof, that sound taste is fast de-
clining, together with sound religion. I was anew charm-
ed with the beautiful simplicity and grandeur of Milton's
ideas, especially in the first six books throughout. It is
to be lamented, that he was such an incorrigible republi-
can ; but he lived in bad times.
22d. We were now favoured with the regular south-
east tradcwind, and proceeded for many days, steadily
keeping on our course, with fine weather, seldom dis-
turbed by clouds and showers; though sometimes an-
noyed by the uneasy motion of our small brig. Going
one morning on deck, a sudden heel threw me against
the companion, by which I hurt my back, and experien-
ced much inconvenience for some time. Yet I had gain-
ed such a relish for continual employment in reading and
writing, that I did not suffer myself to be disturbed by a
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 21
little pain. I also very much enjoyed the conversation
of my fellow travellers, in which we generally spent ^
few hours after sunset, sitting on deck, beholding the
ever-varying play of the numberless waves of the
ocean, and deriving amusement and instruction from a
variety of objects; for truly, ^^ They that go down to
the sea in ships, they see the wonders of the Lord in the
deep ;" nor is a voyage so dull a business as some would
think. The waves, the clouds, the stars, shining with
double lustre through a clear atmosphere, the effect of
the sun and moon on the restless surface of the water,
frequent and beautiful nocturnal exhibitions of lightning
on the horizon, the appearance of fishes and birds at an
immense distance from any known land, the progress of
the vessel, the unexpected, and therefore highly welcome
sight of ships of different nations, and occasional conver-
sation with them in passing, and, I may add, the constant
changes of hopes, fears, and reliefs from false alarms,
with other subjects affecting the feelings ; besides the
various occupations of the crew, the interest taken in the
fate of the animals on board, — all these things not only
keep alive the mind of any person, not wholly apathetic
and inattentive to what passes around him, but tend to
prevent languor and impatience from gaining too much
ground. And what abundant resources are there not
found in study, and the contemplation of the works of
nature and art ; for the pursuit of which, a long voyage
affords much leisure and convenience, seldom inter-
rupted.
Want of appetite, and frequent sleepless nights, which
I considered as a very acceptable commutation for sea-
sickness, having never suffered from the latter after the
first week, had robbed me of much strength, but not of
health, or energy of mind. I was therefore satisfied, not
to be able, without great weariness, to walk about the
decks, and comforted myself with the hopes of the re-
turn of my usual powers, when wanted; nor was I dis-
appointed. A week passed without any occurrence wor-
thy of notice.
28th. Having spent some days without seeing a cloud,
^ fish, a bird, or g^ny thing to excite either alarm or won-
22 JOURNAL OP A
der, we were again visited by showers and strong puffs
of wind. A flying fish fell on board, of a larger size
than any we had yet seen, with black flying fins, its
body about fourteen inches long. However, the unphi-
losophical tars had mutilated him, before he was brought
into the cabin for inspection.
I read to-day the preface of the German bible^ print-
ed at Basle in 1741. It gives an account of the manner
in which the reading of the Scriptures was opposed in
the Roman Catholic church, when even the clergy were
kept in ignorance of its contents. How great was that
darkness, when the whole Christian world tamely sub-
mitted to such spiritual tyranny, and kings and princes
were the dupes of wicked, designing, and ignorant
priests ! How little are those blessings, which we enjoy
in our day, considered and valued by some, who in their
indifference to them, and under a supposition, that the
spirit of popery is changed, see no danger in taking off* a
salutary restraint, by which our pious ancestors sought
to guard and maintain that liberty of conscience, for
which they were ready to shed their blood. Surely, re-
straint by wholesome laws cannot be called slavery by
men who know how to distinguish between liberty and
licentiousness.
29th. At home or abroad, by sea or land, wherever I
am, I can never forget the mournful event of this day,
when our family and church were bereft of that excel-
lent man, my father, in the year 1786. Though now
nearly thirty years are gone by, yet, when the return of
this day brings his death to my recollection, I feel some
recurrence of the pangs, which then seized my heart.
But I remember, that once in his last illness, calling me
to his bedside, he expressed himself to the following ef-
fect, in consequence of the lamentations of a friend, who
had just left the room : " There is nothing, my dear son,
that grieves me more, than to hear such complaints; not
because, far from flattering me, they only remind me the
more forcibly of my defects, but because they evince a
deplorable want of knowledge of, and confidence in, the
dealings of God with His Church and servants. He
wants none of us ; but if He is pleased to use us, surely
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 23
He knows best, when to put down one tool and take up
another. And will He suiTer any part of his work to
stand still, for want of instruments to work with? No!
He will find such as are suited to His hand, and to the
times and circumstances, when they are to be employed."
This is indeed true, but I yet believe, that the concur-
rent testimony of all who knew my late father, will per-
mit me to say, that, taking his character in a general
sense, and viewing him as a man and as a christian, we
shall not soon look on his like again.
To-day there was a considerable swell from the south-
west, which is as regularly met with in these seas, as the
north-west swell in the northern hemisphere. Some
slight squalls passed by on each side of us, and a water-
spout was seen in the west.
30th. We were agreeably roused from sleep before
four in the morning by news, that a large ship was ap-
proaching. A general scramble ensued, to prepare par-
cels of letters to be sent to England. On hailing, she
proved to be the Sydney Cove from Rio de la Plata,
bound to Liverpool. Our captain immediately went on
board and staid some time. Meanwhile the two vessels
got pretty close together. On his return, he brought a
present of half a sheep just killed, but could get no fruit.
The Sjdney Cove had encountered a very heavy gale
from the eastward twenty days ago, while we were in
smooth water. Her captain was glad to rectify his
reckoning by the calculations made by our chronometer,
from which his log differed widely. The morning was
beautiful, and the sun rose majestically from the bosom
of the ocean.
I read to-day a pamphlet entitled " The Spirit of Bri-
tish Missions." It is a compilation of various accounts
of all the existing missionary societies, with addresses
and exhortations, showing great earnestness and zeal in
the cause. With much candour and liberality the author
brings into notice the labours of every missionary society
now existing in Britain.
December 1st. We have now been tvi^o months at sea,
and some of us began to look with eagerness to the con-
clusion of our voyage. But we have no cause for com-
24 JOURNAL OP A
plaint. Rather ought we to be very thankful to Him,
whom wind and waves obey, that our voyage has been
attended with no disaster whatever; and though some-
times annoyed by calms, we have seldom met with con-
trary winds, or any thing like a storm. Ever since we
entered the south-east trades, the sails have nearly stood
in the same position ; and by many favourable shifts of
wind, we have been able to get better to the eastward
than is usually done in these latitudes.
3d. Being Advent Sunday, we used the Liturgy ap-
pointed for the day, and the discourse delivered by bro-
ther Clemens was suitable and impressive. To-day, a
species of that curious animal, called by some the Portu-
guese man of war, was thrown by a wave into the mizen
chains, and brought on deck for our inspection. It seem-
ed to be a young one, its body only three inches long,
and shaped like that of a snail, quite transparent, of a
light cerulean blue, passing into green towards the head,
which had a kind of crest like a fan, also transparent
and tinged with purple at the top. A number of an-
tennae of a deep blue colour proceeded from the body,
and a tail, from three to four feet long, looking like a
string of small blue beads. On examining it more nar-
rowly, Mr. Buck happening to prick its body with the
sharp point of a penknife, it instantly shrunk together,
and almost vanished, nothing but a small pulpy substance
remaining. In the evening, there was much distant
lightning towards the west.
4th. Having, during a sleepless night, been led into
much reflection on different subjects, with which, during
the last thirty years of my life, I have more or less been
occupied, I determined to avail myself of my present
leisure, to make some memorandums in ''^ Letters to my
children^^^ whose affectionate and dutiful behaviour has
ever been a subject of my thanksgiving to God. The
execution of this project occupied me for some time, and
proved a new and powerful remedy against languid
feeling and impatience. These memorials relate to the
origin, — 1st. Of my acquaintance with some of the most
worthy men of the present age. 2d. Of the abolition of
the slave-trade. 3d. Of the peculiar interest I feel in
VI3IT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 25
missionary exertions. 4th. The views I have of the re-
ligious influence of music. 5th. An account of several
events, which call for gratitude to God for preservation,
and tor other mercies, shown to mjself and family, &c.
Vt these letters I finished five, befbre we reached the
Cape.
5th. The black cook having been more conceited than
successful m baking wheaten bread, Brother Thomsen
oliered his services, with Mr. Buck, for his assistant.
1 hey commenced their operations this morning, and after
some experiments, produced very good rolls for break-
last. 1 he cook's darkened visage displayed indeed some
uneasiness at being thus superseded, and his oven used
by amateurs in the profession; but we all experienced
the benefit of it, relishing what we knew had been pre-
pared with clean hands. My appetite also was thereby
much improved, and I believe, that the loss of it, and
consequent decrease of strength, would at length have
proved hurtful to my general health, and perhaps lower-
ed my spirits, which were never more lively and active,
had not this change of food afforded a seasonable relief.
On this and the following days, we had strong, favoura-
ble wind, and the ship went steadily through the water.
We were now visited by various kinds of water-fowl*
Cape pigeons, mother Carey's chickens, and several birds
with long beaks, unknown to us. Porpoises a/so played
about us; but, in general, we have lately appeared as
if we were quite alone swimming in this vast ocean, not
a creature approaching us. Our ship being new-copper-
ed, the captain supposed, that the brightness of its bot-
tom might alarm the finny inhabitants of the deep.
10th. The wind increased in strength, but remained
in our favour. For the first time we had long-continued
rain, which kept us all shut up in the cabin. We spent
the time in reading letters from Greenland, received
shortly before my departure from England. I sent my
answers from Capetown, and they arrived safe, by way
of Copenhagen, in Greenland, in the spring of 1816.
None, indeed, of the many letters I wrote on board, and
sent by various ships, and from the Cape, were lost, but
all arrived sooner or later at the places of their destina-
4
26 JOURNAL OF A
tion, in Greenland, Labrador, North America, the West
Indies, Surinam, Sarepta near Astrachan, Germany,
Denmark, and England ; which shows a facility of com-
munication over all the world, unknown to former gene-
rations, as the fruit of a widely extended and well ar-
ranged commercial intercourse among civilized nations.
12th. To-day I read the first book of Esdras in the
Apocrypha. I was much struck with many passages in
it, relating to the coming of the Messiah, and the New
Testament dispensation, and particularly with the 5th
chapter, verse 40th. The weather was showery ; some
seaweed floated by, and the people thought, that they
had heard the report of a gun to the southward. But
we remained alone, driven by a brisk southerly wind,
rather too much to the east, a current from the south
setting against us. We were to-day in latitude 34^ 23\
and the air in this southern hemisphere is much colder,
than in the same degree and season in the northern :
we were even glad to be on deck, to warm ourselves by
the sun.
14rh. A small species of cat-fish was thrown onboard
by a wave. Its appearance is singular. Its head in a
bag^ with two large eyes, but without any thing deserv-
ing the name of a body. Eight long tails or antennee
proceed from the back of the head, two longer than the
rest, and furnished with claws. All of them are orna-
mented with pearls or beads on the edges. The whole
fish was about six inches long. The cold was to-day ve-
ry troublesome, and on account of the strong current
from the south, and the state of the wind, we tacked,
and stood towards the south, fearing to make the land
too far to the northward.
15th. The captain, Mr. Buck, and two of the mission-
aries, went out in the jolly boat, when Mr. Buck shot two
albatrosses. This is a magnificent bird. The wings ex-
tend to above eight feet, when spread. Its beak is about
five inches long, hooked, and tipped with red, an orange-
coloured line running along the upper edge. Its fore-
he?.d broad, and, like the breast and belly, of the purest
white, covered with the most beautiful, soft, downy plu-
mage. Its webbed feet are white, and its wings black
visit to SOUTH AFRICA, 27
and gr^y, and furnished with three joints. The first
turns the wing, when at rest, towards the tail, the second
back to the breast, and the third again towards the taih
The tail is short in proportion to the size of the bird.
Those shot were both ducks, and we supposed a much
larger bird of the same kind, with a white back, which
flew about the ship, but could not be shot, to be the
drake. A smaller bird, called by some the Cape pigeon,
came on board, and was killed. This pretty creature
had a pointed bill, black, and about an inch and a half
long; its crown black; its back, and the top of its wings,
of a blueish gray ; its feet webbed, but furnished with
long sharp claws, like a land-bird ; its belly and throat
snow-white. The whole bird about a foot long from the
head to the tip of the tail, which is forked and fan-sha-
J)ed.
About noon, and for several hours, the heavens being
remarkably clear and cloudless, but the air filled with a
reddish haze, the sun was surrounded by a very large
perihelion, in appearance about ten diameters from its
orb : towards the east, its brightness was so great, that
it faintly showed prismatic colours. The captain obser-
ved, that he had never seen a similar phenomenon : but
I remember, when I was in Germany, during a remarka-
bly cold winter, that, on a bright day, Fahrenheit's ther-
mometer being at 28^ below 0. a similar exhibition was
seen. A bright circle surrounded the sun, other circles
passing through its centre, and intersecting the former*
Where the intersections took place, very bright spots ap-
peared, called mock-suns. This evening, the clouds in
the west were beautifully tinged with brown, but seem-
ed at variance both with each other, and with the wind :
the sky had appeared thus for some days, the clouds ta-
king a course in our favour, while the wind remained
contrary. We hoped, therefore, for a favourable change ;
nor were we disappointed.
16th. The air and water seemed filled with all kinds
of birds, flying or swimming. The albatrosses were the
most interesting. They seem to rise heavily from the
water, and for some time keep flying not far from its sur-
face. By degrees they mount up, and soar to a great
28 JOURNAL OF A
height, where they hover hke a kite, wheehng about^
and approaching without much fear towards the ship,
little aware of the preparations making for their destruc-
tion ; or rather bidding defiance to our marksmen, who
with all their exertions could never hit, nor even frighten,
any one of them. I protested against firing at inoft'ensive
creatures, without any prospect of profiting by their
death ; for as the boat had been painted, and could not
be used to fetch them out of the water, if shot, the cru-
elty of wounding or killing them, merely to show skill in
shooting, was manifest. I grant, that for the purpose of
obtaining food, or even for examination of any unknown
animalj one may kill without offence; but if that cannot
be done, we have no right to take away life. My ex-
hortations were at first disregarded, and my arguments
pronounced overstrained ; but by degrees, aided by the
total failure of the sport, they availed, to the preserva-
tion of many of our winged visiters, who indeed deserv-
ed to be spared, if only for the entertainment they afford-
ed us. Cape pigeons now and then alighted upon the
sternsail booms, or on the bowsprit, for rest; but if one
had gained a seat, it would not suffer another to sit
down beside it, but in that case chattered and quar-
relled, and at length fought, till either himself or his
neighbour was forced off. Their look and habits seem
like those of a land-bird, but we saw one arrive with a
small fish in its bill. Their figure is remarkably neat :
when they fly, they contract or spread their fan-shaped
tails, and when sitting, cross the ends of their long wings
over their tails, so as to give them the appearance of be-
ing doubly forked. Bottle-nosed porpoises, also, of va-
rious sizes, played often about the ship; and a shark
was seen scudding along, on some murderous errand.
20th. Towards evening the sky looked threatening-
in the west : and after sunset, it began to blow hard, and
the sea was magnificently restless. The waves frequent-
ly heat over our bows, and we had little rest during the
night, on account of the ship's motion and the roaring of
the sea, which we had never heard before to that de-
gree. About midnight, a tremendous sea broke over
our stern, with a rattling noise ; but after so long a voy-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 29
age, we were no more so much affected by these alarms;
and knowing that the wind was in our favour, felt rather
thankful for the speed, with which we ran through the
water, at the rate of eight knots and a half an hour.
21st. Being St. Thomas's day, we sung the usual
Liturgy appointed for that day in our Church, and were
led into much useful meditation on that most remarka-
ble account given by the Evangelist of our Saviour's ap-
pearing to His unbeHeving disciple, when, by beholding
the marks of the wounds in His hands, feet, and side,
proving Him to be verily the same Jesus, who was cru-
cified, dead and buried, but now risen again, a convic-
tion was wrought in his heart, that He was his Lord and
God. From this event, those who go forth to preach
the Gospel, may learn a most important lesson.
22d. The wind had turned against us in the night, and
cast a damp upon the sanguine hopes of some of our par-
ty, that we should soon see the Table-Mountain. The
sea appeared wild, and during the afternoon had chang-
ed its colour. A sailor was sent to the mast-head to look
for land, but the foggy appearance of the horizon pre-
vented his seeing it. By the captain's reckoning, we
were only forty-five miles off. At ten at night, the wa-
ter had a singular appearance. It looked muddy and
white, and was plentifully bestrewed with sparks. The
waves, whose foaming had appeared extremely bright,
had subsided, and the captain felt some alarm. We
hove to ; but, on sounding, no bottom was found with a
line of one hundred and fifty fathoms. We therefore
kept under an easy sail all night.
23d. The wind turned against us, and the sea became
restless. All at once, the second mate, who had taken
his station in the main-top, roused us from our dulness,
by calling out '^ Land !" He discovered it among light
clouds to the south-east. It was the Table-Mountain,
and some of the adjoining hills. The captain being call-
ed up, expressed his disappointment, on finding it lying
in that direction. As the wind changed a point or two
in our favour, we got on slowly towards it, and hoped
soon to reach Table-Bay, when suddenly it fell calm,
and the rolling of the ship became troublesome. Mean-
30 JOURNAL OF A
while, as the weather cleared up, leaving only some white
clouds on the Table-Mountain and the DevilVHlil, we
were exceedingly delighted with the view before us.
Besides the magnificent group of rocky mountains to
which the Table-Mountain belongs, there appeared,
farther inland, a very picturesque range, of singular
shapes, some with rocky peaks, others flattened like Ta-
ble-Mountain. We spent the afternoon at the mercy of
the waves, anxiously waiting for a wind.
24th. There was somethmg rather distressing in our
present situation. We were at the entrance of the bay,
but in danger of being again driven out to sea ; which is
not uncommon off the Cape. The captain, to our sor-
row, had hurt his head so much, that for some hours he
was quite disabled. Meanwhile, advantage having been
taken of every short puff of wind to get in closer, we
found ourselves in the morning of the 24th near Robben
Island, in the neighbourhood of which rocks are nume-
rous and dangerous. A current setting towards them,
the want of wind made our entrance from the north-west
rather hazardous, and we waited anxiously for the sea
breeze. The sky was perfectly clear, and the sun rose
with great majesty, behind the Stellenbosch mountains.
About eight, a gentle breeze sprung up, and we sailed
forward. A grampus followed us, and numerous large
gulls, with white bodies, and black wings, tipped with
white edgings, hovered about the ship, as we entered
the bay.
Table-Bay is surrounded by very picturesque scenery,
upon which the eye may feast for a long time without
weariness. We therefore did not regret the slowness,
with which we approached the anchoring-place, off the
town. Capetown presents itself pleasantly situated at
the foot of the Table-Mountain. The whiteness of its
buildings gives it a cheerful appearance; but the low
tower of theCalvinist church, surmounted by a squat py-
ramidal steeple, is its only prominent feature. As we
moved slowly forward, we were boarded by the har-
bour-master, who came to demand the mail-bags. The
doctor accompanied him, to examine into the state of
health of the crew and passengers. Before this has
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 31
been done, no one is suffered to land. A pilot having
brought the ship to an anchor, I went on shore, to in-
quire about lodgings, and having met with a most cor-
dial reception from our worthy friend Mrs. Disandt and
her family, returned on board with her son Mr. Daniel
Disandt, to bring the company on shore.
We landed at the pier, and soon found ourselves com-
fortably lodged at Mrs. Disandf s house, in the Graave
Straat, not far from the church, thankful to God, that we
had now reached the place of our destination, after so
safe and prosperous a voyage.
CHAPTER 11.
Transactions on our arrival at Capetown. Journey to
Gruenekloof. Bullock Wagons described. First meet^
ing with the Christiari Hottentots. Conclusion of the
year 1815.
December 24th. We had not been long on shore, before
Mr. Henry Hancke, a friend of Mrs. Disandt's family,
came to bid us welcome, and kindly offered to render us
every assistance. From this gentleman I have received
so many favours during the whole time of my abode at
the Cape, that I should not discharge the debt of grati-
tude I owe to him, did I not, immediately on introducing
his name into my narrative, express my great obligations
to him, as they regard both the mission and my own per-
son. He had promised our late worthy friend, Mr.
Disandt, shortly before his death, that he would not only
befriend his family, and assist them with his advice, but
endeavour to promote the interests of the Brethren's
Mission among the heathen in this colony, to which Mr.
Disandt had always approved himself a kind friend and
benefactor. M|r. Hancke has in every respect fulfilled
the wishes of his dying friend wnth exemplary faithful-
ness, and both the family and the mission have derived
the most essential benefit from his active services. To
find such a friend on our arrival, added to the kind and
32 JOURNAL OF A
hospitable reception we met with from Mrs. Disandt and
her children, made us soon forget the tediousness of a
long vo) age, and feel ourselves quite at home in her
house.
The first conversation I had with Mr. Hancke upon
the general concerns of our mission at Gruenekloof, con-
siderably relieved my mind, and I perceived, that, by
the gracious providence of God, things were in such a
state of preparation, that my transactions with his Excel-
lency, the Governor, and with the colonial Secretaries,
would be rendered much more easy, than I expected.
As they have no relation to the journey and the general
state of the Mission, they will, of course, form no part
of this narrative.
After dinner, Mr. Hancke proposed a walk, to see the
town. Passing through several streets, we entered the
Governor's, late the Company's, gardens, which afford
to the inhabitants a pleasant promenade. The avenues
are planted with oak of luxuriant foliage, skirted on
each side by hedges of myrtle. The ground is laid out
in squares, enclosed between high hedges. Within a
stone fence, several ostriches and other birds, and in a
separate building, a lion, lioness, a tyger, and two or
three more wild awimals were kept. Leaving the gar-
dens, we walked to the foot of Table-Mountain. Alrea-
dy before we landed, we had observed a white mist
creeping up from the south, through the opening between
the Devirs-Hill and the flat summit of Table-Mountain.
This had now nearly covered the former, and was fast
spreading along the rocky sides and summit of the latter,
carrying with it a blast of wind, which in a short time
grew so strong, that we could hardly stem its force. The
change from the most clear, calm, and warm weather,
to storm and fog, was almost instantaneous ; and before
we could reach any kind of shelter, we were driven alono-
by the gale, shivering with cold, and glad to make the
best of our way towards home. The storm proved also
a great annoyance to several groups of males and fe-
males, chiefly slaves, and other people of colour, met on
the common, carousing, playing, or dancing, as is usual
here on Sundays and holidays. The variety of faces.
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 3.1
oomplexions, and dresses, seen among the common peo-
ple, is very striking. The greater part are black or
tawny. Not many genuine Hottentots, but various mix-
tures between Hottentots and slaves or other natives of
the Mozambique shore, Malays, and negroes, have here
their residence, and are known by the general name of
bastards. Many are Mahomedans; but there appears
little religious animosity among them, every one doing
what seemeth good in his own eyes. As to the Christian
inhabitants, the English, Dutch Calvinists, and German
Lutherans, possess the churches; the two former join-
ing in the use of the great church. The latter have
lately obtained permission to build one for themselves.
The streets are laid out in right angles ; the houseg
stuccoed, whitened, and chiefly consisting of two stories,
though a few of them exceed that height. Their gene-
ral appearance is neat and clean. As in the towns in
Holland, and some parts of Germany, large carved
door-cases, grotesque decorations of gable-ends, and
huge gates, leading to small houses, are met with here
and there ; but, in general, it may well pass for an Eng-
lish town.
I gave notice of our arrival to the Missionaries at
Groenekloof, by the usual Sunday's post, forwarded by
a dragoon. We were sorry to miss the celebration of
Christmas-Eve, in one of our settlements.
25th. Christmas-day. We attended divine service in
the Lutheran church, of which the Rev. Mr. Hesse is
minister. German hymns are sung, but the sermon is
delivered in Low Dutch, a language, as yet, unintelligi*
ble to us.
The church is a handsome building, with three aisles;
the roofs supported by columns of the Ionic order; the
galleries judiciously placed behind them. The organ is
new, and of considerable magnitude. The church has
no steeple, but a short pyramid is placed on the pedi-
ment over the entrance.
When the service was over, Mr. Hancke accompanied
me to the house of Mr. Alexander, the colonial Secreta-
ry. Here I delivered my letters of introduction, and af-
terwards called on the President of the court of justice,
5
34 JOURNAL- OP A
Mr. Trutter, aiid on the Fiscal, Mr. De Nyssen. Some
missionaries from other societies paid us agreeable visits.
With one of them 1 took a walk towards evening, and
noticed several objects, new to me. The mountains
were enveloped in clouds, but the sky otherwise clear.
We passed by some vineyards. The vines grow with-
out espaliers, placed in rows, like currant-bushes in
our gardens. When arrived at a certain height, the
upper shoots are taken off, to increase the quantity
of grapes. Fences of the large aloe, and of cactus or
Indian fig, are common. Of pisang, we saw several
large beds.
26th. In the forenoon, we had the great pleasure to see
our missionary, Brother Schmitt and his wife arrive from
Groenekloof, in a wagon, drawn by twelve bullocks.
The unexpected information received of our arrival at
the Cape, had made them take immediate steps to meet
us. They had also provided wagons for our convey-
ance to Groenekloof, where the Brethren Marsveld and
Bonatz from Gnadenthal were soon expected. Mean-
while, having occasion to call at a watchmaker's shop, we
found him to be a lively old German, who entertained us
with a narrative of his adventures. He gave us also an
account of the dreadful plague of the small-pox, by which
this colony was visited about four years ago, and a great
number of people, of all ages and sexes, were carried off.
He was one of those, who suffered most severely. Flags
were hung out from the windows of those houses where
the disorder raged, to mark them as pestiferous ; and
thus for three months, he lived quite alone, in a dreadful
state of mind and body, not expecting to survive. His
friends placed victuals at the threshold of his door, but
not even one of the family dared to approach or visit him
in his affliction. " But,'' added he, " it was this affliction,
that first taught me to know and fear God, and to con-
sider the state of my immortal soul."
27th. I waited on Mr. Stoll, the landdrost of the Cape
district, in which Groenekloof lies, and was by him intro-
d(]ced to Colonel Bird, deputy colonial Secretary, through
whom permission must be obtained to remain in the colo-
tiy, and to proceed into the country. He received me and
VISIT to SOUTH AFRICA. 35
the missionaries with great politeness. Having advised
me to present my letters of recommendation to the Gover-
nor with my own hands, Mr. Hancke was so obliging a^
to carry me to Newlands in his sociable. The road lies
along the eastern side of Table-Mountain, which here pre-
sents itself in shapes more picturesque and wild, than on
the western, towards the town. The foot, both of the
DevilVHill and Table-Mountain, is well clothed with
witteboom, (protea argentea,) oak, and other trees, the
verdure and foliage of which were in great perfection.
To the left is the bay, and the low hills on its northern
shore; but towards the north-east the magnificent range
of mountains of Stellenbosch and Drakenstein form a no-
ble horizon. Various singular plants adorn the hedges
and banks on each side of the road, among which the
huge bushes of Indian fig in full bloom ; the Chinese
rose, growing to the height of sixteen or twenty feet;
the aloe and pisang were particularly conspicuous. Ma-
ny elegant houses, belonging to the citizens, with rich
plantations surrounding them, lie along the foot of the
mountains, precipices and grotesque rocks overhanging
them in sullen majesty. We reached Newlands in about
an hour, and found the Governor, Lord Charles Henry
Somerset, at home. I presented to his Excellency the
letters I had brought with me, and had a long conversa-
tion with him on various subjects, in which he assured me
of his favourable disposition towards our missionaries,
^nd his approbation of their exertions for the improve-
ment both of the temporal and spiritual state of the Hot-
tentots and other heathen tribes in this colony, a-s lik -
wise of his readiness to remove every obstacle that might
impede the prosecution of their labours.
28th. Having received an invitation from Mr. Schmidt,
a gentleman possessing a farm in the kloof between the
LionVHead and Table-Mountain, our whole party walk-
ed to his house to breakfast. It lies about three English
miles from the town. Passing through the yard of Mr.
Zorn, formerly landdrost of the Cape district, we observ-
ed a tame mongrose, or mausehund, from Java, a species
of viverra, which ran about, and suffered itself to be
handled. It was a beautiful creature, about a foot long.
^36 JOURNAL OF A
with a sharp snout, from which the body rises, richly clo-*
thed with fine long hair, to about four inches in height,
sloping off again to the end of the tail. Its colour was
dark oHve. When frightened or injured, it uttered a
quick, jabbering noise. In its wild state, this creature is
a most destructive depredator among all kinds of poultry,
Mr. Schmidt's farm lies in a very romantic situation.
It is built upon a mass of rock of coarse granite, contain-
ing large chrystals of feldspath, apparently in a state of
slow decomposition. To the left of the house is the bed
of a torrent, passing through a deep ravine. After cross-
ing it by a stone arch, the path leads to some huge
blocks of granite, which form altogether a singular mass
of rock, overspread by oaks and other trees and shrubs,
affording shade to the cattle. The grounds are filled
with all kinds of fruit-trees and useful plants, every one
of which seems to grow luxuriantly. Peach and orange
orchards, and beds of pisang and bamboos occupy the
slope of the hill. — After some time spent with this hospi-
table family, we returned, calling again at Mr. Zorn's
house by the way. It is a good J)utch building, delight-
fuily situated among shady groves of various trees. The
garden abounds with a vast variety of large flowering-
shrubs and plants. The portico or gallery running along
the whole front of the building, has an espalier roof en-
tirely covered with vines, the grapes hanging down in
great profusion and beauty. An aviary contains some
curious birds, both from Africa and the East Indies. Mr.
Zorn was not at home : but we were hospitably received
by Mr. Cloete, his son-in-law. Walking down the hill, the
town presents itself very pleasantly, its streets crossing
each other at right angles, with Table-Bay and the hilly
country in the back-ground ; but the want of towers and
other prominent features detracts from its beauty. On
the road, we noticed some large spiders, red locusts, and
grasshoppers, peculiar to the Cape. My time at home
was taken up with visiting both the friends of the Mis-
sion and some gentlemen in the public offices. Mr.
Hancke also made me acquainted with Mr. Melville,
Surveyor to the Government, with whom my readers
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 37
will become yet better acquainted in the course of this
narrative.
29th. Finding that waiting for the landing of the
whole of our baggage, would detain us too long at Cape-
town, the Christmas holidays having intervened and
caused delay at the Custom-house, we determined to pro-
ceed to Groenekloof this afternoon.
Mrs. Disandt's children brought me a cameleon, or,
as the Dutch call it, a trapsoetjes, signifying an animal,
thq^t walks cautiously. It is in shape and size like a
common lizard, but with a proportion ably larger he^d,
and longer tail, which it coils downwards. Its eyes are
situated in prominent tubes, easily moved to and fro, up
or down, towards any object before or behind, together
or separately, in different directions. Its general colour
is green and orange, but it changes with the place it oc-
cupies among trees, grass, or stones. It has two toes on
each foot, with which it clasps the small branches of the
shrub or tree on which it may sit, drawing itself slowly
along, or climbing from one to another. The whole crea-
ture is covered with small protuberances, of various hues.
About four o'clock P. M. we left Capetown, accompa-
nied by the best wishes of our worthy and generous
friends. Our caravan consisted of four wagons. The
first, drawn by twelve, and the second, by fourteen bul-
locks, were occupied by our own party. In the third,
which was uncovered and drawn by sixteen, a young En-
glishman, travelling our way, was allowed to have a
seat. That, and the fourth, with fourteen bullocks,
were appropriated for baggage and stores, destined for
Groenekloof and its neighbourhood.
The wagons in use at the Cape have a strong frame-
work body, with wheels and axle-trees made of iron-
wood, or other wood, equally hard and tough. A travel-
ling-wagon is furnished with seats, suspended by leather
straps, to give them play, which, in some respects,
answers the purpose of springs, and with a tilt of mat-
ting, covered with sailcloth supported by hoops of bam-
boo. Curtains, of sailcloth or leather, hang before and
behind, to secure the company against wind and rain.
The bullocks draw by a wooden yoke, consisting of a
38 JOURNAL OF A
strong bar laid across their necks, to which are fixed, in
right angles downwards, four short pieces, so as to ad-
mit the neck of each animal between two of them. These
are kept in their places, by being tied together below
the neck with a small thong. A strongly plaited lea-
ther thong runs from the ring at the end of the pole to the
yoke of the first pair of oxen, being fastened, in passing,
to the middle rings of each yoke. The bullocks, by
pushing with their shoulders, seem to draw with ease.
The Hottentot driver has a whip, the stick of which 4s a
strong bamboo, twelve and more feet long, and the lash,
a plaited thong of equal or greater length. With this,
to European grasp, unwieldy, instrument, he not only
cracks very loud, but hits any one of his bullocks with
the greatest surety. But the chief engine of his govern-
ment is his tongue, and he continually calls to his cattle
by their names, directing them to the right or left by the
addition of the exclamations of hott and haar, occasion-al-
ly enforcing obedience to his commands by a lash, or by
whisking or cracking his whip over their heads. A
toy leads the foremost oxen by a thong fastened about
their horns, and they seem to follow him willingly. We
^ere accompanied a short way by our friends, Mr.
Hancke and Mr. Daniel Disandt. The weather was
clear, and the view of the mountains delightful.
The English have made good roads in the immediate
neighbourhood of Capetown, and to Simon's Bay; but
we soon left them, and dragged through deep sand, al-
most the whole way to Groenekloof No trees, and but
few shrubs, adorn the waste, but we noticed many pret-
ty species of heath, and some elegant flowers, unknown
to us. The most common plant is the so-called Hotten-
tot fig. From beneath the sand is protruded, most of
the way to the drift or fording-place of the Salt river, a
porous iron-stone of singular character, appearing here
and there perforated, like a honeycomb, or a number of
nuclei, cleaving together, the cavities filled with ochre.
This iron-stone is found almost in every part of the colo-
ny, both in the Cape district, and beyond the great
ridges of mountains, in a variety of forms, in pebbles,
large lumps, scattered about among the sand, or in veins.
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 39
About sunset, we reached the large salt pans near the
Riet Valley, so called from the quantity of reed-rushes
growing in it. The people in the adjoining farm very
civilly sent to invite us to the house j but we excused
ourselves, wishing yet to proceed farther, before we
took up our night's lodging in the wilderness. In about
an hours time, we unyoked the bullocks and left them to
seek their supper among the bushes. This is always
done, if possible, at a place where there is a stream or
pool of fresh water. The Hottentots having Ughted a
fire, a mat was spread on the ground to leeward of a
large bush of the poison-apple^ which screened us from
a sharp south-east wind, black clouds on the horizon
threatening us with a stormy, and perhaps rainy night.
Coffee was boiled; of which, with some eggs, cold meat,
cakes, and milk, we made an excellent supper, sitting
round the fire. After our repast, we retired into the
wagon to rest. The fire going out, and no preparation
for our departure being made, Brother Schmitt, on in-
quiry, found, that eleven oxen were missing, for which
the Hottentots had been searching in vain. To point
out to the latter the place of our encampment, as well as
to guard against the cold in this dark night, some of us
rekindled the fire, keeping up a constant blaze, by feed-
ing it with rhinoceros bushes, a resinous plant with large
roots, but easily pulled up. After some hours, all
hopes of finding the lost cattle having vanished, a differ-
ent arrangement was made, and we proceeded with two
wagons, leaving the other two to follow us.
30th. We passed by a farm on the Blauberg, belong-
ing to a Mr. Kotzee, and about sunrise reached a place
called Trefonteyn, an appendage to a farm, belonging to
a Mr. Kous. Here we made another halt, and break-
fasted under a thicket, consisting of different kinds of
brush-wood and flowering shrubs. Into this cover, we
saw a snake hastening with a young frog, entangled in
its coils, but its swiftness was such, that all our exertions
to destroy it only rescued the wretched captive. We
now travelled through a barren, sandy heath, but the
weather having cleared up, the sight of the hills about
Groenekloof afforded us much pleasure, and brother
40 JOURNAL OF A
Schmitt pointed out the spot, where, some years ago, he
narrowly escaped death, in a rencontre with a tyger.
Being about an hour's drive from the settlement, we dis-
cerned at some distance a group of Hottentots, men, wo-
men and children, who had come out to meet us, with
the missionary, Brother Fritsch, standing on a small ri-
sing ground near the road. As soon as the wagons had
reached the spot, we alighted, and were welcomed by
the Hottentots, who joined in singing that hymn, " JYow
let us praise the Ltord^''^ &c.
To describe our feelings on this occasion is not in the
power of words. The various subjects for reflection,
which rushed upon my mind at once, on seeing this com-
pany, lately a scattered race of wretched, ignorant, and
wicked heathen, but now brought together as a people
of God, among whom His word dwells daily and richly,
made me inwardly exclaim : " Where is the wisdom of
the wise ! where is the disputer of this world !" and
the visionary theorist! Here is proof by facts, that " the
Word of the Cross is the power of God unto salvation
to all them that believe," Here is seen the effect pro-
duced by the preaching of the gospel of a crucified Sa-
viour, unadorned and unaided by human eloquence ! I
was greatly affected, beyond the power of utterance, and
we all stood in silent devotion, listening to the sweet voi-
ces, which formed the delightful chorus. We shook
hands with all of them, old and young, while, in the most
affectionate and humble manner, they expressed their
joy at our arrival. The whole procession now moved
forward, some of the Hottentot women in an open bul-
lock-wagon, which they had brought with them; the
rest, with the men, partly on horseback and partly on
foot. The settlement is seen like a fruitful field in the
midst of a desert, and the road to the missionaries' hou-
ses lies through a small poplar wood. About five P.
M. we arrived at the dwelling-house, and met with a
most cordial welcome from aiMther party of Hottentots,
who had assembled at the door, and expressed their
gratitude, that God had again sent teachers to them, by
singing several verses, and by unaffected declarations of
their joy*
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 41
After dinner, some of us walked out to see the settle-
ment, entered some cottages, and found every where
friendly faces and a kind reception. In the usual even-
ing-meeting, Brother Fritsch addressed the congrega-
tion on the mercy of God, in granting, from time to time,
a supply of ministers and teachers, who were willing to
devote themselves to the work of God among the hea-
then, and especially among the Hottentots; and in
prayer commended those who had just now arrived, to
the guidance of His Holy Spirit, in all their future la-
bours; praising Him for having brought them safely to
this place. I then delivered a salutation from the Socie-
ty for the Furtherance of the Gospel, and all our congre-
gations in England, to the congregation of Christian Hot-
tentots at Groenekloof. Brother Clemens did the same
from the Elder's Conference of the Unity,'^ and the
congregations in Germany. The Hottentots, of whom
about a hundred and fifty were present, answered by
loud thanksgivings. On quitting the chapel, several
came to shake hands WMth us, saying, that they were not
worthy that we should come so far to serve them.
31st. After the forenoon's service, a Hottentot accost-
ed me, desiring to speak with me alone. As I could not
understand him, I requested Brother Schmitt to be pre-
sent. The poor man came to make confession of his
having been seduced by an old companion at Capetown,
to drink more 'than he ought to have done ; that he had
thus overslept himself behind a bush, at the place where
we spent the first part of the night, and suffered the cat-
tle to go astray; and that he now came to ask forgive-
ness. Though his situation at that time was not ob-
served by us, yet it had given offence to the Hottentots;
and we represented to him, that he had not only hurt his
own soul, but brought disgrace upon the cause of tlie
gospel : that therefore it was necessary, for the present,
to exclude him from the meetings of the baptized ; to
which sentence. Brother Schmitt added some serious
'* The Committee or Board of Bishops and Elders of the Church of
the United Brethren, appointed by the General Synods for the su-
perintendence and management of the affair^ of the Church from one
Synod to another. (See Crantz's History of the Brethren.)
42 JOURNAL OF A
and fatherly admonitions. His tears showed the grief
he felt, and, as we hoped, his true repentance. This
was the first instance 1 saw of that great change wrought
in the heart of a heathen, who in his former state,
thought drunkenness no sin, but now mourned over his
being again overtaken, and seduced to the commission
of the crime.
In the afternoon, all the missionaries met in confer-
ence, with a view to the conclusion of the year, and
offered up prayer and praise to God our Saviour for all
His mercies vouchsafed to them as a family, during the
year past. In the evening, we walked into the settle-
ment, and entered several houses and huts. In one we
conversed with a venerable old man, upwards of eighty,
who had descendants in the fifth generation. The con-
clusion of the year was made at twelve o'clock at night,
in the manner usual in all our congregations, and we felt
ourselves truly united in s[)irit with all, who here and in
every place call upon the name of the Lord, and consti-
tute altogether the family of God on earth, however
distinguished by names, forms, and customs.
CHAPTER III.
Account of Groenelcloof. Burial-ground^ and part of the
Settlement^ described. Conversation with the Hottentots.
Arrival of missionaries from Gnadenthal. Father Mars-
veld. Conferences, Captain Klapmus, Order of Bap-
tism. Journey to Capetown. Mr. Polemaii^s description
of a Cave in Kancro. Visit at JVewlands. Mountains
of Sfellenbosch. Farms and Vineyards. Hottentot HoU
land'^ S'Kloof. Journey to Gtiadenthal. Arrival.
Groenekloof is the name given to a district, situated
about thirty miles to the north of Table-Bay, comprising
several large farms. That, now occupied by the mis-
sionaries of the United Brethren, which is more particu-
larly called Groenekloof, was formerly known by the
name of De Kleene Post, (The Little Post.) The house
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 43
and premises were originally in possession of the Dutch
Company, but latterly let to a farmer. After the expira-
tion of his lease, in 1808, the Earl of Caledon, then
Governor of the Cape, having observed the benefits
arising to the Hottentot nation from Christian instruc-
tion, prevailed upon the Brethren's missionaries at Gna-
denthal, to form a settlement at this place, where many
fa vihties existed for the maintenance of a congregation
ol l^hnstian Hottentots. The Government at home hav-
ing confirmed the grants the Brethren were put in pos-
session, and a number of Hottentots soon flocked to them
from various places, both in and out of the colony.
The tract of land, given to the Mission, comprehends
Groenekloof proper, with Lauweskloof andCruywagens-
Kraal, two Hottentot stations. At the former, a Hot-
tentot captain, with about a hundred persons of that
nation, resided, previous to the establishment of the
Mission. At the end of the year 1815, the number of
inhabitants in the settlement at Groenekloof amounted
to three hundred, old and young.
January 1, 1816. I took a walk to see the burial-
ground, lying on the hill, north of the dwellings. It is a
square piece of ground divided into four equal compart-
ments by gravel walks, and surrounded by a mound and
ditch. On the mound is planted a fence of cactus or In-
dian fig, which, when grown up, will be a strong barrier
against the intrusion of cattle. About thirty graves are
at present in the ground, placed, according to the cus-
tom of onr Church, in regular rows. The graves of the
Hottentots are not marked by grave-stones, but by an
upright piece of wood at the head of each, with a num-
ber painted on it, referring to the church-register, which
shows the name and age of the person interred. From
hence, the houses and huts of the Hottentots appear in
the valley, the little wood separating them from the
farm and missionaries' dweUings. The valley to the
north and east is bounded by low bushy hills, on which
lie several detached fragments of granite, of various
shapes and sizes. A group of larger masses near the
old stables forms a very picturesque assemblage of rock,
interspersed with trees, stnd in many parts covered with
44 JOURNAL OF A
aloes, many of them at present in fall bloom. Except in
very dry seasons, there is a little rivulet running at their
foot towards the village. These stones and the cavities
among them serve as a retreat for mausehunde or mon-
gooses, muskiliat cats, and other destructive animals, as
also for serpents, salamanders, lizards, mice, and moles.
From the heights above the burial-ground, a pleasant
view of Table-Mountain and its companions presents
itself, and towards the east, part of the Stellenbosch
range beyond the Dassenberg, and some low^er hills are
visible.
At ten o'clock, public service was held, as usual on
New- Year's day. I counted one hundred and seventy
Hottentots present. Brother Schmitt delivered a power-
ful discourse on the name of Jesus. The attention of
the auditory was such, that not one turned his eye off
the preacher, but they all seemed as if they would eat his
vrords. After the sermon, a child was baptized. I was
much struck with the solemn manner^ in which the pa-
rents are always previously asked, in presence of the
v^^hole congregation, whether it is their intention to edu-
cate the child, now to be baptized, in the fear and admo^
nition of the Lord, and to devote it from its infancy to
Him alone, as His redeemed property. Their answer
in the affirmative is generally given with an expression
of great sincerity and earnestness. During the whole
day, parties of Hottentots came to w^ish their Teachers a
happy New-Year. Lehrer or Teachers is the name they
generally give to the missionaries.
In the evening, some of us went into the settlement,
and visited several families. The cottages are of differ-
ent dimensions, materials, and workmanship. Some of
the inhabitants are building houses with stone walls,
which by degrees will become more general. In one
house, where the people were yery neatlv dressed, were
we treated with a pie, usually baked by them for the
New-Year. It tasted well, and they were much pleased
to see ns partake of their humble meal.
2d. The morning was spent in conversation concern-
ing the affairs of the Mission. After dinner, I took a
walk up the hill to the west pf the farm. It is a steep
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 45
bank, covered in most places with shrubs and brush-
wood. A deep gully divides it from the hill on which
the burial-ground is situated, being the effect of torrents
during the rainy season. The earth is every where co-
loured by iron, and of a deep brown or yellowish hue.
The pebbles, with which the surface is plentifully strew-
ed, are chiefly iron-stone, though mixed with some small
fragments of quartz of so hard a texture, that it strikes
fire, and was mistaken for flint. The waste produces
some beautiful plants, among which 1 particularly noti-
ced the Fahlbar, a species of aloe, the leaves of which
are round, of a pale blue colour, and spreading near the
ground, the stalk about a foot long, and the flowers,
which are bell-shaped, and of a deep scarlet, hanging
down in clusters. They adorn the bank behind Brother
Schmitt's garden.
3d. Being a day appointed for the candidates for bap-
tism to converse w^th the missionaries and receive their
advice, I attended, and was much pleased with the unre-
served manner in which they expressed their thoughts
and the state of their minds. Whoever charges the
Hottentots wnth being inferior to other people of the
same class, as to education and the means of improve-
ment, knows nothing about them. They are possessed
of good sense and even of considerable gifts, in speaking
on various subjects^ within the reach of their apprehen-
sion. Some accompany their speech WMth gesticulations,
which are natural and very unlike the grimaces of cer-
tain Europeans. The manner of the missionaries in con-
versing with, and instructing them, struck me as pecu-
liarly calculated to call forth their confidence, as w^ell as
to impress their minds with great seriousness. When /
ventured to address the Hottentots, I felt myself a great
w^ay behind these worthy men.
While we were thus engaged, a letter announced the
approach of the missionaries Marsveld and Bonatz from
Gnadenthal, whose wagons were seen moving slowly
across the waste from the Dassenberg. Men and women
went out to meet them. It was to me an affecting sight
to see, with what joy the Hottentots bid them welcome as
they alighted at the door. They flocked round Father
46 JOURNAL OF A
Marsveld to express to him that love, esteem and grati-
tude, which is so justly due to this venerable man, who,
with his two younger associates, renewed the Cape mis-
sion in 1792, and now, at the age of seventy -one, is yet
full of life and activity in prosecuting this work of God.
I could hardly press forward to add my expression of
joy, on beholding at length the face of one, whose cha-
racter I have so long known and revered. All rejoiced
to see Brother Bonatz, who had been long absent from
Groenekloof, return in safety.
When the friendly bustle of bidding welcome was
over, the people formed a semicircle in the yard, and
sung a hymn of praise to God for having brought the
travellers safe to their journey's end. All was yet new
and highly interesting to me ; I felt delighted to see and
converse with the Hottentots from Gnadenthal, and to
be a witness of that truly christian union of heart, which
produced the most sincere expression of friendship and
brotherly love between them and those of Groenekloof.
Even the sight of the Gnadenthal oxen added to my
pleasure, as they were shortly to draw" us to that place.
During the following days, we were engaged in con-
ferences relating to the affairs of the Mission in this colo-
ny, and made several arrangements. Brother Stein was
appointed to remain as an assistant at Groenekloof, and
the rest of the party to go to Gnadenthal. In my walks,
I made daily some new discovery, and every portion of
time was employed in becoming better acquainted with
those subjects, which were, at present, to be the business
of my life. God mereifally granted to me a continuance
of health and spirits, nor did the heat affect me.
4th. In the evening-meetings I was surprised to hear,
with what lively zeal and strength of voice, Father
Marsveld addressed the congregation. He observed,
that as the time of his departure out of this world was
drawing near, he rejoiced once more to see this congre-
gation of Christian Hottentots, and to join them in prais-
ing the Lord, for gathering a flock from among their na-
tion, at this place, adding suitable exhortations and ad-
monitions. The people could hardly restrain their desire
of expressing their thanks, till he had finished his speech,
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 47
when there was a general burst of thanksgiving from old
and joung.
6th. The festival of Epiphany was celebrated as usual,
with much solemnity, being the commemoration of the
first call of the heathen to their incarnate God and Sa-
viour. The history of that event was read and explain-
ed to the congregation, from the second chapter of St
Matthew's gospel. After the public service in the after-
noon, two catechumens were baptized. This was the
first baptism of converts from among the heathen, at
which I was present; and the whole transaction made an
indehble impression on my mind. One of them, whom /
baptized, was a daughter of the Hottentot captain Klap-
mus, of Lauweskloof. Her father had formerly been a
noted enemy of the missionaries. His daughter, at the
commencement of the Mission at Groenekloof, joined in
opposition to the missionaries with much bitterness ; but
has since heard the gospel, and been convinced of the
necessity of conversion. Though the old man persisted
in his hostile disposition, he would not oppose his daugh-
ter's wishes to be instructed in the doctrines of Chris-
tianity, and even now declared his satisfaction at her
being baptized. He was present, and afterwards visited
the missionaries in their house ; by whom he was kindly
received, and admonished not to put off the day of his
conversion. He even shed tears at parting, and we
hoped, that, in his case also, by the Lord's unlimited
mercy, " where sin abounded, grace may yet much more
abound."
Having been requested to insert, in this narrative,
some account of the internal course of the Missions of
the Brethren among the heathen, as I wish to avoid pro-
lixity, I will here, once for all, describe the order of
baptism.
After the public service on Sunday morning, the in-
fants of baptized parents are brought by them into the
-church ; the mother being generally churched at the
same time. First, a short hymn is sung, and a discourse
deHvered, addressed principally to the children, expla-
natory of the nature and intent of this ordinance, and
the sacredness of the covenant therein made between
48 JOURNAL OF A
the Lord and the person thus initiated into His Church
on earth. After the discourse, the usual Hturgy is read,
and the parents being interrogated, respecting their in-
tention to educate their child in the fear and admonition
of the Lord, as above described, (p. 44,) baptism is ad-
ministered, in the manner usual in our European congre-
gations, one or two of the missionaries and their wives
generally standing sponsors.
Adults are baptized in a public meeting on Sundays
and festival days, in the afternoon. The candidates ap-
pear decently dressed in white clothes. A hymn being
sung, and a suitable discourse delivered, a vessel, cover-
ed with a white cloth, containing the water, with a small
basin or laver in it, is placed before the candidate. The
liturgy, prescribed to be used at the baptism of adults
from among the heathen, is then read; and the ques-
tions, therein contained, being put to the candidates and
answered, a prayer is offered up, after which the bap-
tism takes place. The candidate kneeling and bending
forward, the water is three times poured upon his head
with the basin or laver, at the words " in the name of
the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost,"
when, if there are more to be baptized, the vessel being
removed from one to the other by the chapel-servant,
the missionary proceeds to the next, assisted by other
ordained Brethren, if a larger number require it. The
whole congregation then kneeling down, a doxology is
sung, and the service concluded, by pronouncing the
blessing: after which the newly-baptized come to the
missionaries into the vestry, and are exhorted to faith-
fulness and constancy in the performance of their bap-
tismal vow. They are likewise taught to know and
pronounce the names given to them. Their gratitude
and compunction of heart on these solemn occasions are
generally expressed more by tears than words.
7th. Old Captain Klapmus attended the morning-
service, and seemed affected both by Father xMarsveld's
sermon, and by the subsequent exhortations of the mis-
sionaries whom he visited.
Having, for the present, finished my engagements at
Groenekloof, I resolved to accompany the missionaries
VISIT TO SOUTH AF*RICA» 49
ping to Gnadenthal, but as part of our baggage was
left at the Cape, and some other business required my
presence in the town, I availed mjself of the opportuni-
ty of a wagon going to fetch the goods, and set out in
company of Brother Bonatz about sunset. At midnight,
we made halt at Trefontejn, and the wind being h.Vh
and cold, had some trouble to get a fire lighted and cof-
tee boded under a bush, where we spent about two
hours, vyhile the oxen were feeding. The morning was
fane, and I walked several miles. The Table-Mountain
appears here so near, on the south side of the bay, that
the hopes of soon reaching its foot made the iourney
round the head of the baj appear rather tedious, espe-
ciaJlj as the deep sand prevented much haste.
8th. On our arrival at Mr. Disandt's house, I found a
letter from his Excellency the Governor, with an invita-
tion for me to come and spend some days with him at
JNewIands. However, as a Dutch squadron had this
morning arrived with troops, destined to take possession
ol Java, and other islands, restored to the Dutch by the
English, and I was aware of the Governor's attention to
the Admiral and officers, I went to the colonial office to
inquire of Colonel Bird, how his Excellency was en-
gaged. Here I met, both with the Governor himself
and With H. Alexander, Esq. first colonial Secretary.
An interesting conversation ensued on various subjects
connected with our missionary establishments in the
colony, during which his Excellency displayed great
candour and willingness to render every assistance and
remove every existing obstacle. He insisted on my
dinmg with him at Newlands, and Mr. Alexander took
me out and home in his phaeton. I met there Mr. Trut-
ter, President of the Court of Justice, and his lady.
9th. Mr. Alexander, with whom we breakfasted,
showed to Brother Bonatz and me his grounds, pointing
out several particulars, in which the gardei» in our set-
tlements might be improved. I returned to him to din-r
ner, where I had the pleasure to meet several gentle-
men whose conversation was in a great degree interest-
ing and instructive ; Professor Reinward, going out with
the Dutch fleet on a scientific tour to Java and other isl-
2
50 JOURNAL OF A
ands ; Mr. Poleman, a medical gentleman of this town,
of superior merit, whose acquaintance proved most
agreeable and useful to me, during my stay at the
Cape; Captain Hamilton, of the royal navy, an old ac-
quaintance, who having accompanied Bonaparte to St.
Helena, gave us a very interesting account of the voy-
age.
10th. Mr. Alexander having proposed to take me to
Hottentot's Holland, and to show me some improvements,
both on his own property and on some farms near Stel-
lenbosch, which might be applied in our settlements. Bro-
ther Bonatz resolved to return with the wagon to Groe-
nekloof, and with his party to meet me at Hottentot Hol-
land's Kloof. I spent part of the forenoon at the Secre-
tary's office, where I had much previous conversation
with Mr. Alexander respecting the extension of the Mis-
sion in the interior, and perceived with gratitude the
readiness shown to forward the undertaking as recom-
mended by the Government at home, and to furnish me
with every useful information.
; To-day, I became acquainted with the Rev. Mr. Hesse,
minister of the Lutheran church, a man universally and
j deservedly respected, and found in him a true friend and
adviser. With him and his family I spent much time
most agreeably, whenever I visited Capetown.
Calling on Mr. Poleman, he gave me an entertaining
account of a journey he had made some time ago to a
remarkable cavern in Kango, a part of the district of
Zwellandam, from whence he had brought some very
singular stalactites. It is, by his account, one of the lar-
gest and most curious subterranean excavations in the
known world, whose vast chambers and dark recesses
have not yet been fully explored. The stalactites in
some of its halls are from sixteen to twenty-four feet in
height, forming majestic groups of columns, supporting,
in appearance, immense domes. Mr. Poleman, whose
ardour led him to venture into many passages and cavi-
ties never yet visited, was in some places prevented from
proceeding by huge dunghills made by imiumerable hosts
of bats, which covered the walls and ceilings of the hor-
rid dungeon. Contrast the life, which these leathern
I
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 51
winged animals are doomed to suffer, with that of the
feathered tribes, sporting in the unbounded regions of
the air above us, and one might almost be led, by com-
parison, to form an idea of the difference between the
states of condemned and happy spirits hereafter. I also
visited Mr. Villette's collection of the natural curiosities
of this country. He stuffs birds, and preserves serpents
and insects remarkably well.
11th. My intention to spend this day in writing and
visiting some friends was frustrated, by Mr. Alexander's
calling early to take me to Newlands to breakfast, at his
Excellency's desire. As it appeared, that unreserved
conversation with the Governor facihtated the business
committed to me, I was glad of the opportunity to renew
it; nor was I disappointed. After breakfast, we drove
to Kerstenbosh, a country-house belonging to Mr. Alex-
ander, at the foot of the rocky mountains south-west of
Table-Hill. The country is wild, well wooded, and exhi-
biting a rich profusion of curious shrubs and plants, some
in flower. Rocks of singular shapes overhang the dark
oak woods behind the house, and a cascade, issuing from
the upper regions of these romantic hills, shoots down a
dark glen. Among the woods and rocks wolves, jackals,
and tygers, have a safe retreat. The soil is sandy, well
watered, and consequently fruitful. The witteboom
(silver-tree) grows here in abundance. After a short
stay, we returned to town, passing through several new
plantations of various kinds of trees, skirting the ascent
towards the mountains, to the country-seat of the Honour-
able General Meade, Deputy Governor of the colony.
It is situated in the vineyards, and has extensive gardens,,
in which some curious plants from Botany Bay and Chi-
na, were cultivated with great care and success by the
General, who is highly respected both in his military ca-
Eacity, and as a man of great taste and science. His
aving left the colony has caused universal regret. I
spent the afternoon with the Reverend Mr. HessOv who
showed me the church and premises belonging to the
Lutheran congregation in this place. It is but of late
years, that the Dutch would permit the Lutherans to
have an establishment at the Cape. The spirit of tole-
52 JOURNAL OF A
ration, introduced with the English government, has now
set them quite athberty; and it redounds much to their
honour, that, though a small congregation, and not rich,
thej have made a most comfortable provision for their
minister, and spared no expense in erecting a handsome
church and parsonage-house. Mr. Hesse's garden is
filled with a great variety of singular plants, trees, and
shrubs, the produce both of this, and other southern re-
gions. In his botanical researches, which serve him as
a relaxation from the laborious duties of his station, he is
encouraged and assisted by the friendship and skill of his
neighbour Mr. Poleman ; and it were much to be wish-
ed, that men so eminently qualified, would favour the
lovers of botany with the result of their discoveries in
that delightful branch of natural history.
12th. This morning 1 had some conversation with the
Reverend Mr. M'Kenny, of the methodist community.
He has been sent out to form a society of that persuasion
at the Cape ; but meets with difficulties, as his commis-
sion does not seem to be a mission to the heathen, but
chiefly to regard the white settlers. The Governor is
willing to promote every attempt to introduce Christian-
ity among the heathen ; but to the multiplying of differ-
ent religious sects at Capetown, many persons have great
objections.
At noon, I set out with Mr. Alexander and his lady
for Stellenbosch. His travelling wagon was drawn by
eight mules. The road to the half-way-house is through
deep sands and a wild waste, but in most places covered
with bushes and flowering shrubs, which though the
summer was far advanced, still showed themselves with
considerable splendour. The people at the house cook-
ed some victuals, which we had brought with us, being
themselves unprepared for visiters. The nearer we ap-
proached the mountains, the more magnificent their rug-
ged outline appeared, reminding me, both as to their
height and general character, of the most picturesque
part of the mountains of Cumberland and Westmoreland.
1 he descent into Stellenbosch is long and tedious, and
wo did not reach the landdrost\s house till after sunset.
Ihe landdrost, Mr. Van Rhyneveld was absent, but we
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 53
met with a hospitable reception from the family. After
tea, I accompanied Mr. Alexander to see some English
friends. The moon shone bright, and the evening air
was highly refreshing, after the heat of the day.
l.ith. 1 rose early, and walked out into the village.
Nothing can be more delightful than the shady avenues
planted in every street, defending the inhabitants and
their dwellings from the burning rays of the sun. The
Erste Revier is a swift flowing torrent, issuing from a
gien in the mountains above the town, and its bed a vast
assemblage of large stones and pebbles, forming an em-
bankment or beach on each side, showing what force and
extent the river assumes, when swollen by heavy rains
in the hills. I walked about for nearly two hours, and
was much entertained by many surrounding objects, es-
pecially by the grotesque shapes of several hills and
rocks in the grand chain. Returning, I stepped into the
church, a plain building, in form of a cross, with an enor-
mous door. It is furnished with chairs for the congrega-
tion, and a few pews for the men in office. An old or-
gan adorns the west end. The landdrost's house is a
handsome mansion, with spacious and well-furnished
rooms. Some of the largest oaks I have seen in the
colony overshadow its front.
After breakfast, we proceeded to the house of a weal-
thy farmer, Mr. Van der Byl, who showed us his vine-
yards, wine-press, cellars, gardens, and other premises.
The family received us with great hospitality. Our
road lay through the waste, along the great ridge of
mountains, and presented us with beautiful scenery,
especially wherever a farm-house, with its gardens and
groves, furnished a foreground to the landscape. The
next farm we visited was Mr. Meyburg's. The house
and premises are well built, and the situation more plea*
sant than that we had just left. Our visit was but snort,
and we now made the best of our way to Hottentot's
Holland. After fording the Erste Revier, we passed
through the charming plantations of a farm, belonging
to a Mrs. Morkel, and crossing a dreary waste, arrived
about four o'clock at Mr. Alexander's own farm. I was
surprised to find here a Hottentot waiting for me. Bro-
54 JOURNAL OF A
ther Bonatz and the travelling party having arrived this
morning at the foot of Hottentot-Holland's Kloof, spent
the heat of the day at a miserable inn, intending, on my
arrival, to pass over the kloof in the cool of the evening.
I joined them immediately after dinner. Father Mars-
veld and his wife had already set out on foot, and we
follow^ed with three wagons. The pedestrians met a
herd of ten or twelve baboons on the road. The coward-
ly creatures betook themselves speedily to flight, and
with astonishing dexerity and swiftness, scaled the steep,
and to man, inaccessible cHffs, where they made a stand,
till the cracks of the Hottentots' w^hips so frightened
them, that they in an instant disappeared, but kept up a
hideous yell for some time.
This kloof is celebrated in the journals of our mis-
sionaries for its difficult and steep ascent and the bad-
ness of the road. My imagination therefore had pre-
sented to me the picture of a formidable passage across
these mountains, and I now found the accounts given by
no means exaggerated. Twenty-four oxen having been
sent from Gnadenthal to meet us, our complement had
increased to fifty-four, and it was with difficulty, that
even this number drew the loaded wagons up the rug-
ged road. The lower part of the hill is richly covered
with grass, flowering shrubs, and bushes, but the upper-
region is a Avild, solitary, and vast assemblage of rocks,
thrown together without any appearance of regular
strata.
After passing the summit, the descent is more gra-
dual, and a fine full moon lighted us on our way to the
first station, where we unyoked our oxen. We forded
the Palmite river w^ithout difficulty, the water being low,
and met five large wagons with fourteen oxen each,
coming from the interior.
After taking some refreshment and rest, we proceed-
ed about midnight, and made halt again at four o'clock
in the morning. Part of our cattle were not with the
wagons, but driven loose as relays. Among these a
wolf descended from the mountain, and was choosing
his prey, when he was observed by one of the Hotten-
tots, and frightened away by the cracks of the long
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 55
whip. The wolf of the Cape is a solitary, cowardly
animal, when not impelled by hunger.
14th. We had now passed the great mountain called
the Haue Hoek, and again halted on the Botte Revier,
where we breakfasted. Most of the company then re-
tired into the wagons to sleep ; but, always hoping to meet
with some remarkable production of nature in this
strange land, I walked along the banks of the river to-
wards the hill. The country is dreary in the extreme.
A solitary cottage attracted my attention, and making
towards it, I overtook Sister Clemens examining the
pebbles of various colours which cover part of the bank.
They were fragments of sand-stone coloured by iron.
We entered the cottage together, and found a friendly
woman in it, with two slaves, and some black children.
She informed us, that her relations lived on the other
side, in two farm-houses. A slave-girl, who had been at
Gnadenthal, offering to show us the way, conducted us
across the river, over a rocky part of its bed, and
through some vineyards and gardens, to the first house.
Here an old Dutch farmer, with a gray beard of a week's
growth, came out to meet us, but seemed not disposed to
give us a friendly reception. At length, hearing that
we came from the Cape, his curiosity to know, for what
purpose a Dutch fleet had arrived in Table-Bay, made
him ask us to sit down. Leaving his inhospitable dwel-
ling, w^e walked on to the next farm, where our recep-
tion was very different. The good-natured housewife
even asked us to pluck the fruit of some mulberry-trees,
standing before her door. On our return, we found the
black slave-girl waiting for us at the fording-place. She
presented Sister Clemens with a nosegay of wild flow-
ers, and very carefully helped her across the stony bed
of the river.
When we again entered her mistress's hut, we were
treated with some tea and goat's milk. Brother Lem-
merz joining us, the family resolved to accompany us to
the wagons to pay their respects to Brother Marsveld,
whom they had seen at Gnadenthal. We found our
venerable companion ready to receive them, and hope
that they derived benefit from their meeting. After
56 JOURNAL OF A
some usual inquiries, he spoke most affectionately with
the woman, her slaves and children, of the necessity of
conversion, and that blessedness which is to be found in
communion with the Lord Jesus. His address was
heard with much attention, and drew tears from their
eyes. It proved to us all a most edifying morning-ser-
vice.
The Hottentots and their cattle not being yet ready
to proceed. Brother Lemmerz accompanied me on a se-
cond walk down the river, till the steepness of its banks
arrested our progress. The country has a most comfort-
less appearance. To the south, lies a chain of hills,
among which the Tower of Babel is the highest. They
are all barren, and chiefly rock. At length our phleg-
matic drivers thought proper to proceed, but after three
hours, on account of the heat, they halted again near a
little valley, at the bottom of which flows a rivulet in the
rainy season; but we now found only a few stagnant
pools. Here I continued my researches, and saw the first
land-tortoise, of the species called by the Dutch, Patloo-
per, from their generally keeping on the path-way or
carriage-road. It was about four inches square, of a
greenish colour, the compartments of its shell fringed with
brown and yellow. Small broken fragments of white
opaque quartz are here every where mixed witfi the iron
and sand-stone, gravel, and pebbles. In the evening, we
halted again, and proceeding slowly, arrived towards
morning at the farm of a Mr. Klemm, a German, who
gave us a very friendly reception. Here the road to
Gnadenthal turns to the left.
15th. As soon as the day dawned, we saw ourselves
surrounded by the same dreary country as before. Very
few shrubs and low bushes enclose the Serjeant's Revier
in the valley, but the mountains begin to show themselves
to greater advantage. To the right lies the Zwarteberg
or Black-Mountain, under the south side of which the
Warm-bath is situated. It is high, with many dells and
gullies among its rocky steeps. Before us, the higher
and very picturesque range of hills, among which the
great Bavian's mountain (or Gnadenthal mountain) is
the most conspicuous, afforded a noble and interesting
Visit to south Africa, 57
prospect. It somewhat resembles the higher ranges of
the Cuiiiberland and Westmoreland hills in the neigh-
bourhood of Winandermere and Brathay vale, but its
foot is not clothed with the rich verdure and beautiful
plantations with which our English valleys and the as-
cents of our hills abound. Uwe were impatient to reach
the end of our journey, our oxen seemed more so, for on
being again yoked to the wagon, the Hottentots could
hardly keep them from going off in a w^ild gallop. They
almost ran over the boys, who led the foremost. As
the shaft-oxen cannot keep a wagon back on a steep de-
scent, and a drag-chain does not always answer the pur-
pose on these roufifh roads, the way of the Hottentots is,
to tack down a hill. To a traveller, not accustomed to
it, it appears rather dangerous to be driving among the
heath, high bushes, mole-hills, and ants' nests, where in
England there would be a certainty of oversetting, es*
pecially in turning so suddenly as these people do. But
they guide fourteen or sixteen oxen with the greatest
skill ; and the length of the wagons, yielding to the un-
evennesses of the road, keeps them upright, notwithstand-
ing the violent jolting experienced by the travellers.
The approach to Gnadenthal and the Baviaas-Kloof,
which now opened to view, was to us all highly interest-
ing and affecting. The road winds among low heathy
hills, behind which the high mountains rise in various
shapes, forming a bold outline. Within an English mile
from the river Sonderend, we were met by about a hun-
dred Hottentots, men, women, and children, on horse-
back and on foot, who came to bid us welcome, accompa-
nied by the missionaries Leitner and Beinbrech. We
alighted, and the people, placing themselves in a semi-
circle, sung a few verses, expressive of their joy and gra-
titude to God for bringing us safely across the ocean to
this land. Having remounted the wagons, we proceed-
ed with them and forded the river. The water reached
to the middle of the bodies of our oxen.
Gnadenthal lies about an English mile from the ford,
and as we drew nearer, the number of those, w^ho came
to meet us, every moment increased. The entrance into
the village i,s through lanes enclosed by hedge-rows,
B
58 JOURNAL OF A
and the dwellings of the missionaries appear under a
grove planted by the first three Brethren, Marsveld,
Schwinn, and Kuehnel, some time after their arrival in
1792.
Little do I now wonder at the rapture with which
this place is spoken of by travellers, who, after traversing
a dreary, uncultivated country, without a tree to screen
them from the scorching rays of the sun, find themselves
transported into a situation, by nature the most barren
and wild, but now rendered fruitful and inviting, by the
persevering diligence and energy of a few plain, pious,
sensible, and judicious men, who came hither, not seek-
ing their own profit, but that of the most despised of na-
tions; and while they directed their own and their
hearers' hearts to the dwellings of bliss and glory above,
taught them those things, which have made even their
earthly dwelling, comparatively, a kind of paradise, and
changed filth and misery into comfort and peace. s
The missionaries and their wives received us with the!
greatest kindness and hospitality, while a fresh companyl
of Hottentots, standing under some venerable and wide-
spreading oaks, which overshadow the court, welcomed
us by singing a hymn, and by every token of affectionate
regard. We joined with our whole hearts in their
thanksgivings to God our Preserver, for the numberless
favours received at His hands throughout the whole of
our travels by land and sea.
CHAPTER IV.
.Account of Gnadenthal Its church, grove of oaks, gardens,
burial-ground, and Hottentots' dwellings. Bavians-Kloof.
Building of a new-house. Daily employments of the mis-
stonaries. Visit to the Hottentots' huts. Caffre-Kraal
Wilhelmina, a Coffre woman. Stephen, killed by a horse.
Account of the interior of the Bavians-Kloof Some in-
ternnl arrangements of a Mission of the United Brethren.
Chapel-servants. Celebration of the Lord's Supper. De-
cent appearance of the congregation. Journey to, and ac-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 59
count of^Mthe Warm-baths near Caledon. Dr. Hassner.
Description of Caledon. Schools at Gnadenthal. Tree
serpents. Conversations with Father Marsveld.
Gnadenthal lies about one hundred and twenty English
miles Irotn Capetown, in a direction nearly due east. It
is the principal missionary settlement of the United Bre-
thren in South Africa-
The Mission among the Hottentots was begun in
1737, by George Schmidt, a man of remarkable zeal and
courage, who settled at this place, then known by the
name of Bavians-Kloof,— The Hottentots heard the gos-
pel with attention, and he soon collected a small Chris-
tian congregation. He taught the youth to read Dutch,
and instructed the people in several useful arts. In
1744, leaving them to the care of a pious man, he went
to Europe, with a view to represent the promising state
of the Mission, and to return with assistants. But, to his
inexpressible grief and disappointment, he was not per-
mitted by the Dutch East-India Company to resume his
labours, some ignorant people having insinuated, that
the propagation of Christianity among the Hottentots
would injure the interests of the colony. Since that time,
to the year 171>2, the Brethren did not cease to make
application to the Dutch Government for leave to send
missionaries to the Cape, especially as they heard, that
the small Hottentot congregation had kept together for
some time, in earnest expectation of the return of their
beloved teacher. Brother Schmidt had left a Dutch
New Testament with them, which they read together
for their edification.
At length, in 1792, by the mercy of God, and the
kind interference of friends in the Dutch Government,
leave was given to send out three missionaries, who, on
their arrival, were willing, at the desire of the Gover-
nor, to go first to Bavians-Kloof, and there to commence
their labours, on the same spot where Brother Schmidt
had resided. Instructions from the Government in Hol-
land directed them to choose the place of their residence,
wherever they might find it most convenient; but the
60 JOURNAL OF A
circumstances of the colony at that time would not ad-
mit of it.
The English having made themselves masters of the
colony in 1796, the Brethren were permitted to build a
Church, and by the favour which the British Govern-
ment has uniforraily shown to the Brethren's Missions,
they now remain undisturbed and protected in their civil
and religious liberty.
In 1792, when the three missionaries, Henry Marsveld,
Daniel Schwinn, and John Christian Kuehnel came hi-
ther, they found an old woman, Helena, baptized by Bro-
ther Schmidt, still ahve, who delivered to them the
New Testament he had given her. But few vestiges of
his dwelling remained. The place was a perfect wil-
derness; at present thirteen hundred Hottentots inhabit
the village. The name Gnadenthal was given to it by
the Dutch Governor Jansen.
We spent the first afternoon after our arrival, in
walking through part of the settlement. Out of every
house and hut, men, women, and children, came forth
with friendly faces to meet us, and to testify their joy at
our arrival. Having observed to some of the inhabi-
tants, who live near the church, that the place before
their houses was not kept in good order, and Brother
Bonatz adding, that I was De fiTeer, of whom he had told
them, that he would come from Europe to see them, and
expected to find cleanliness and order established
throughout the whole village, they fell to work, and in
half an hour removed all the rubbish and ashes lying
about their houses, promising that I should never see
such disorder again. We next went into the great gar-
den, in the centre of which stands the celebrated pear-
tree, planted by the late venerable missionary, George
Schmidt, in 1738. Having in fifty-two years, during the
suspension of the mission, ^^rown to a vast size, it served
the Brethren, in 1792, both for a church and school, the
people and their children sitting under the shade of its
wide-spreading branches. Some symptoms of decay at
its top, had made pruning necessary, which has lessened
its size, but it is now quite alive and sound. The burial-
ground lies west of the garden, a double row of oaks
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 61
sheltering it towards the north. It is divided into four
equal compartments, at present, comprehending about
three hundred graves of Hottentots, in regular rows,
each distinguished by a piece of wood, marked with a
number, referring to the church-books, as at Groene-
kioof.
From hence we walked into the glen, called Bavians*
Kloofi from its having formerly been the resort of a
great number of baboons. But since the inhabitants of
the valley have multiplied, these creatures have retired
to more desolate parts of the mountains, and but seldom
make their appearance, except when peaches and other
garden-fruits are getting ripe. A lively brook, called
the Bavians-Revier, issues from the glen, and, flowing
through the village, falls into the river Sonderend, not
far from the ford.
hi the evening, about four hundred Hottentots attend-
ed the service at the church, and after a suitable address
by Brother Bonatz, joined in a hymn of praise to God,
for having brought us safe to this place. When we de-
livered the salutations sent by the congregations of the
Brethren in Germany and England, to tlie converts from
among the Hottentots, with best wishes for an increase
of every blessing upon them and their nation, loud thanks-
givings followed. To us new-comers, it was a truly grati-
fying and affecting sight, to see so large a number of Chris-
tian Hottentots assembled together, and to hear them,
with heart and voice, joining in the worship of Him, with
whom there is no respect of persons, but whose grace
and mercy are free to all of every tribe and nation, who
humbly seek his face.
I was very comfortably lodged, and cannot but here
acknowledge, with gratitude, the kindness of the widow
of the late missionary Philip Kohrhammer. She had re-
tired to a small chamber in an out-house, and insisted on
my taking possession of her room in the mission-house.
16th. When 1 awoke in the morning, I could han"
believe, that I was actually at Gnadenthal ; a pla( e,
which for so many years has been the subject of my
thoughts and my pra)'ers ; of which 1 have so long de-
62 JOURNAL OP A
lighted to speak and write, and which I have so often
visited in spirit. It was my most fervent wish and prayer,
that the Lord would make this visit profitable to my own
soul ; and, if I might be thus highly favoured, beneficial
to the cause I came to serve.
Immediately after breakfast, I went into the church*
From without, its appearance by no means exhibits the
classical taste of the architect : but it is imposing by its
size, the thickness of its walls, which are of unburnt
brick, plastered and yellow-washed, its arched windows,
its high roof, and its gable-ends, serrated or finished in
short steps, with a vane on the point of each. In short,
it looks like nothing else, and its general character im-
mediately pronounces it to be a place of worship. The
height of its roof makes it a very conspicuous object in
approaching the valley from every side, and nothing is
wanting but a slender turret in the centre of the roof of
about twenty or thirty feet in height, to give it all the
appearance of an ancient ecclesiastical building. The
doors are, in my opinion, on the wrong side. It should
turn its main front to the village, whereas, now, it faces
the grove and the mission-dries' dwellings. Two arched
windows are placed between the doors, and one between
each door and the gable-end. The front towards the vil-
lage has arched windows. The arches over the doors are
glazed. On entering the building, I was agreeably struck
with its neatness and cleanliness. Two columns, about a
yard in diameter, support the immense roof, and at first
sight, surprise every beholder. That thickness was thought
necessary, as they are constructed of unburnt brick. They
resemble the plainest Saxon columns in some of our cathe-
drals. The chalky material used here for white-wash,
which comes from a place near the seacoast, called Karst
Revier, has a peculiar brightness, contributing much to
the cheerful look of this temple. The body of the church,
with the gallery, which occupies three of its sides, will hold
upwards of a thousand persons. The front of the gallery is
supported by iron bars, pendant from the beams in the
ceiling. The latter is not plastered, but is a neat flooring
of yellovy-wood upon a joist. The plain outside of the
gallery, is relieved by a very simple, but ingenious con-
VISII^ TO SOUTH AFRICA. 63
trivance. Upright boards, shaped hke pilasters, are
nailed upon the horizontal planks, which give the whole
a finished appearance. The minister's table is, I think,
inconveniently placed between the two entrances. On
Sundays, it is converted into a species of pulpit, by
placing a high desk upon it. The whole is covered with
^reen cloth, and elevated on a step above the floor.
This step runs the whole length from door to door, un-
der the seats of the missionaries. The space under the
gallery at the east-end, is boarded off, as a small vestry,
used only as a waiting room for the officiating minister,
and to dress, previous to the holy sacrament. The
church is lighted by three lamps, hanging, one in the
centre, and one on each side, in a line with the columns.
The congregation sit on benches, the men on the east,
the women on the west-side of the building; both below,
and in the gallery, a space of about two yards down the
middle, forms a passage between them ; at the bottom
of which stands another large table, used at the com-
munion, and in the meetings for instruction and cate-
chisation, when those present turn with their faces to-
wards it.
The belfry, which, after the arrival of the English,
the missionaries were permitted to build, stands in the
middle of the grove. It is an arch, supported by sub-
stantial pilasters, whitened, and a pleasant object. The
sound of the bell may be heard a good way down the
valley. It is used for every purpose of call, to church,
to school, or to meals, and consequently is sometimes
rung eight or nine times in the day.
From my first entrance into Gnadenthal, I determined
to lose no opportunity of obtaining a complete know-
ledge, both of its inward and outward state, and of con-
tributing, to the best of my power, by advice and assist-
ance, towards its prosperity. I therefore began imme-
diately to consult the missionaries in what manner my
time might be most profitably spent in this service. Be-
sides many conferences with reference to the internal and
spiritual concerns of the Mission, we were led to consi-
der the necessity of making various improvements, as far
as our slender means would permit. The missionaries.
64 JOURNAL OP A
%
who had accompanied me hither, found no dwellings pro-
vided for theui, and were rather uncomfortably lodged
in the garden-house, the gardening tools having been
pieviously removed, and at the inn, a house kept by a
Hottentot, and chiefly used by farmers visiting the settle-
ment, to refresh themselves and their horses, for a few
hours, but seldom as a night's lodging. The resident
missionaries, having each only one room for himself and
family, could not possibly take them in. An additional
building, therefore, seemed indispensably necessary ;
and we resolved to build a house, in a line with the
school and smithy, which should contain three rooms and
a joiner's shop.
Brother Peter Leitner was intrusted with the commis-
sion ; and on the Hottentot congregation being informed
of the resolution, fifteen masons offered their services. A
sufficient number of hands were soon engaged; some to
cut reed for thatching, others to assist in making unburnt
bricks ; and in a short time, the foundation was laid,
according to the plan agreed on. I had here an oppor-
tunity of observing a feature in the character of the Hot-
tentots. It is true, that from affection and gratitude to
the missionaries, they will engage to work : if, however,
they have no relish for it themselves, they are apt to go
about it rather sluggishly. But if the work please them,
which was here the case, no European workmen exceed
them in spirit and diligent attention ; only the execution
must not last too long, lest, like children, they begin to
get tired of it. They are flattered and pleasecl when vi-
sited by their employers while at work, particularly if
the latter take some share in it, and now and then lend
assistance, if only by removing a stone, or helping to lift
a beam.
Before dinner, two English officers of dragoons arri-
ved on a visit. They appeared highly pleased with the
whole settlement; particularly with the neatness and
regularity of the missionaries' dwellings, the convenience
and cleanliness of the church, and the number of trees,
both upon the premises, and dispersed throughout the
village. It gave me pleasure to accompany them in their
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 65
walk, and to satisfy their inquiries after the origin and
aim of the institution.
In the evening-meeting, Brother Marsveld delivered a
very animated discourse on the text of the day. I was
surprised to find him still able to speak with so much
energy and strength of recollection in spiritual things.
17th. We rose at the first sound of the bell, which
rings at b^f past five. At that time the family meet in
the dining-room, read the texts of Scripture appointed
for the day, sing some verses generally out of hymns con-
nected with their contents, or any other morning-hymn,
and then take a dish of coffee ; but what they call
breakfast is not ready till eight o'clock, and more like a
hincheon. Very little time is spent at their meals. Be-
tween twelve and one they dine ; drink tea or coffee at
two ; sup between six and seven, and go to the church
at eight, when the whole congregation meet for evening-
worship. Every day, however, has its regular meetings
for one or other division of the congregation, for instruc-
tion in the Christian doctrines. The schools are held in
the forenoon for the boys, and in the afternoon for the
girls.
After breakfast. Brother Bonatz walked with me into
the village, when we entered about a dozen houses. The
village consists at present of two hundred and fifty-six
cottages and huts, containing twelve hundred and seven-
ty-six inhabitants. The dwellings are differently con-
structed. Some of the new people who are permitted
to reside here on trial, or the poorest of the inhabitants,
put up a hut, made with a few upright poles, between
which there is a wattling of reeds or rushes, or a species
of slender cane. Again, others have walls of unburnt
brick, or wattling covered with a clay plastering, with
square doors and windows, and a well-thatched roof.
None of them are fond of too much light; and general-
ly one window, or at most two, serves for the whole
house, before which not unfrequcntly hangs a curtain of
sheep-skin to prevent any intrusion of the sun's rays.
Each house has a garden belonging to it, and the state
of the garden generally betrays the disposition of the in-
habitant. Some are kept neat, and produce good crops ;
0
66 JOURNAL OF A
others, though not many, are full of weeds. The mis-
sionary upon whom this branch of service devolves, after
exercising due patience in admonishing and warning the
possessor, may deprive him of it, and give it to another.
Most of the gardens, however, look well ; and being
separated from each other by low hedges or bushes, the
whole valley appears well clothed with verdure.
In some of the dwellings, the children of the poor, par-
ticularly the little boys, go naked ; and some of the men
wear only karosses and aprons, after the old Hottentot
fashion. But those that have better earnings, soon pro-
vide themselves with jackets and trowsers, and other ar-
ticles of European dress, which they always w^ear on
Sundays, clothing their children in linen or calico shirts,
trowsers, or petticoats. The head-dress of the women
is a handkerchief, neatly infolding their heads, above the
ears, with a loop in fr ont, and looks well.
On each side of the valley, the cottages are placed in
rows; but the rest are irregularly distributed between
them. Though at first I had joined others in regretting,
that, from the beginning, no regular plan had been fol-
lowed throughout, by degrees I became pleased with
the romantic irregularity of the interior part of the set-
tlement, when, as I walked among the hedges on a ser-
pentine foot-path, I unexpectedly met w^ith a snug cot-
tage under cover of quince, fig, and other fruit-trees, and
an assemblage of women and children sitting at work
under their shade ; then, after some friendly conversa-
tion, passing on, I again surprised another family with a
visit. In one of the huts, Brother Bonatz desired a
poor boy, dressed only in a kaross and apron, to read
some verses in the bible to me, which he did without
hesitation.
At thiee o'clock in the afternoon, a pretty large con-
grepfation of communicants attended the confirmation of
^'^u^T^^^ woman, previous to her first participation of
the Holy Communion. Father Schwinn ofliciated, and
delivered an edifying discourse on the aim of that sacred
ordmance. I took afterwards a walk with Brother
Lemmerz, into a part of the settlement on the eminence
heyond the Bavians-Revier, called the Caffre-Kraal, be-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 67
ing inhabited chiefly by Christian CaiFres. These peo-
ple were admitted as inhabitants at Gnadenthal before
the late disturbances; and when all the Caifres were
banished the colony, and obliged to retreat across the
Great Fish River, those belonging to the Brethren's
Mission obtained leave from Government to remain here,
and have always conducted themselves in the most
peaceable and orderly manner. Some of them are dis-
tinguished by their exemplary conduct. Thej^ differ in
features and in habits from the Hottentots ; but here,
associate with them in perfect amity.
From thence we went into a kloof or valley called
Siebenfonteyn, at the bottom of the ascent towards the
great mountain, where we found a very good house and
garden. The wife of the possessor, with whom we had
some conversation, seemed a pious, sensible woman.
To-day I heard with much pleasure a party of men
and women, employed as day-labourers in the missiona-
ries' garden, both before and after their meal, which
they enjojed in the shade of the grove, most melodious-
ly singing a verse, by way of a grace. One of the women
sung a correct second, and very sw^eetly performed that
figure in music, called Retardation ;
'to
i
pp^:
from
which I judge, that dissonants are not the invention of
art, but the production of nature. Nothing would be more
eas3% than to form a chorus of the most delightful voices,
in four parts, from among this smooth-throated nation.
18th. After breakfast, Sister Bonatz brought a Chris-
tian Caffre w^oman into my room, who had expressed a
particular wish to speak to me. I desired her to sit
down, which, after some hesitation, she did on a low
stool, as is their custom, and Sister Bonatz being inter-
preter, said, that she came to beg, that we would send
teachers to her nation, who were in the dark, ignorant
of God, and of that happiness in Jesus, which sh?, though
so unworthy, experienced, and consequently given up as
a prey to every kind of sin and evil. On this subject
she delivered herself with a kind of fervour and elo-
quence, which would have done credit to the most ci-
g8 JOURNAL OF A
vilized orator. She spoke with great humility of the
mercy shown to herself, of the privilege she enjoyed of
living among a people of God, of her ardent desire, that
her own brother and sister, and all her country people,
should experience the same ; and entreated, that they
might not be forgotten. She was afraid, ^^ that perhaps
the teachers might leave off praying for them." She
had, however, found a text of Scripture which revived
her hopes : " I will bring the blind by a way that they
knew not." Is. xlii. 16. She would therefore yet hope
" that our Saviour would send to them His word, and call
them to partake of His salvation." I answered, that I
could assure her, that her countrymen were not forgot-
ten by the Fathers and Brethren in Europe, and that I
had been particularly commissioned to make inquiry
about the practicability of establishing a Mission in her
country ; but having spoken with the Governor and
other persons in office, I was given to understand, that
just now it would not be safe, while the war lasted.
She replied, that the boors Avere in fault, but she hoped
that the war would soon cease, and then that something
would be done for them. She thought " that the best
way to begin a Mission would be, to send one or more
CafFres to king T Geika, and inform him of the aim of
such an institution, and though she believed, that just
now the Caffres might kill the boors for robbing them of
their land, they would protect missionaries coming from
Gnadenthal ; that a settlement might be formed, hy the
CafFre part of this congregation becoming the first set-
tlers in any part of their country, suitable for the pur-
pose, and that, if a mission were begun, and succeeded,
there would be an end of all CafFre wars with the En-
glish." The name of tnis woman is Wilhelmina, a com-
municant, and in her person, manner, and neatness of
apparel, superior to any of the Hottentots. 1 was much
pleased and edified by her conversation.
It is the common custom, in this warm climate, for
every person who can afford the time, to take a nap
after dinner, and I was advised to do the same, under
an idea, that without it there is too much waste of
strength. To-day, I walked after dinner into the great
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 69
garden, and sat down under George Schmidt's pear tree,
when 1 began to feel drowsy. I retired therefore into
my room, to try the effect of the advice given me, but
when called to coffee, felt so much stupified by the at-
tempt, that I ever after resisted it, and generally walked
about the premises after dinner, or employed the time
in drawing, by the help of the camera obscura, nor did
I ever feel inconvenience from wakefulness. I walked
this afternoon with Brother Lemmerz to the new vine-
yard in KornlandVKloof, which promises to yield an
abundant crop. By the way we called on several Hot-
tentots in their houses.
19th. The greater part of this day was spent in con-
ference on different subjects. During an early walk, I
was much dehghted by watching some thin and almost
transparent summer clouds skimming along the upper
region of rocks on the great mountain. The shades and
tints of the lower cliffs were charmingly variegated as
illumined by the rays of a bright morning sun. In the
afternoon, all the new-comers went with Brother Bonatz
on a visit to the Hottentots and Caffres beyond the Ba-
vians-Revier.
20th. After dinner, word was brought that a commu-
nicant, Stephen, had received so severe a blow in* his
stomach by the kick of a horse, that his life was in dan-
ger. I accompanied Brother Bonatz to see him. We
found him lying on his breast, under a hedge, with four
or five women sitting near him. Some men had con-
veyed him thus far on a bedstead, when, not able to
bear the motion, he begged to be put down. We en-
couraged him to endeavour to rise ; and, after he had
taken some medicine, four stout men carried him to hl^
dwelling, but the door being too narrow to admit the
bedstead, they conveyed him into the stable. He w^as
in great agony, and his case truly pitiable. His wife had
just been deUvered. They were extremely poor, and
had four young children alive ; one was lately drowned.
They spoke of their complicated distress with resigna-
tion to the will of God, and poor Stephen expressed his
conviction, that he should depart out of this world, pray-
ing that the Lord would have mercy on him and take
70 JOURNAL OF A
him to himself. On our return, something was sent for
the reHef of the patient.
In the evening, I walked with Brother Lemmerz into
the kloof. We worked our way through the bushes to-
wards a rocky eminence, from which I hoped to gain a
view of the division made in the upper part of the kloof
by four round hillocks, but was disappointed. A num-
ber of children of both sexes were employed in getting
firewood, all with naked feet, and not half dressed, fear-
ing neither thorns, sharp stones, nor serpents, which are
not unfrequently met with. The stone throughout the
kloof is sand-stone, generally of a reddish hue, intersect-
ed by veins of white quartz, here and there imperfectly
chrystallized. The rocks appear as if they were put to-
gether of fragments of various sizes. Some of their
ledges are covered with beautiful shrubs, and the par-
tridge aloe grows every where in great perfection.
This evening, a chest with Dutch bibles and Testa-
ments, a present from the British and Foreign Bible So-
ciety, arrived, to the great joy of the missionaries and
the Hottentots. In the evening-service, I was more
than ever charmed with the voices of the congre-
gation.
Before I proceed in my narrative, it may be proper
to give an account of sonic of the internal regulations of
the missionary settlements of the United Brethren, which
are the same in every country. The gospel is preached
to all heathen, to whom the missionaries can oain access^
and everyone invited to be reconciled to God, through
the atonement made by Jesus Christ. Besides the pub-
lie testimony of the gospel, the missionaries are diligent-
ly employed in visiting and conversing with the heathen
in their dwellings. If any come to the missionaries for
further instruction, giving in their names, they are
called JS'ew People^ and special attention is paid to them.
If their subsequent conduct proves their sincerity, and
they desire to be initiated into the Christian Church by
Holy Baptism, they are considered as Candidates for
Baptism,^ and, after previous instruction, and a convenient
time of probation, baptized. In admitting them to the
Holy Communion, they are first permitted to be once
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 71
present as spectators, and called Candidates for the Com-
mnmon; and aCter some time, become Communicants^
Jirach of these divisions have separate meetings, in which
thej are instructed in all things relating to a godly life
and walk. Separate meetings are also held with other
divisions of the congregation; with the children, the
sin^^le men, the single women, the married people, the
widowers, and widows, in which the admonitions and
precepts given in the Holy Scriptures for each state of
Iile are inculcated. Every member of the congregation
IS expected to come, at stated seasons, to converse with
the missionaries; the men with a missionary, and the
women with his wife, by which a more perfect know-
ledge of the individuals is gained, and an opportunity
aftorded to each, to request and receive special advice.
t rom among the most approved of the people of both
sexes, Assistants are appointed in large congregations,
who visit the sick, make reports to the missionaries, and
help to maintain order. Others are employed as Chapel-
servants, who take their turn in attendance.
21st. In the afternoon, the chapel-servants had a meet-
ing, as usual in the beginning of the year, the aim of
which IS, to encourage them to diligence and faithfulness
in their service. The conversation was free, unaffected,
and edifying. Many of them, both men and women, join-
ed in It with great modesty. Father Marsveld, after a
short address, asked some questions concerning their ser-
vice, and their views in accepting of the appointment.
Iheir answers surprised and delighted me. They pro-
ved, that these people, latelv so ignorant, had, by the in-
struction, not of men, but of the Spirit of God, conceived
views and ideas of the service in the house of God more
just, than many who think themselves far more enlitrht-
ened. Their spirit seemed truly that of David, who
would rather be a door-keeper in the house of the Lord*
than dwell in the tents of the wicked. One said, that he
felt so unworthy of being thus employed, that when he
rose to snuff the candles, he almost trembled, lest he
should do any thing to disturb the congregation or the
teacher. Tlie conversation turned also upon brotherly
love, and a willingness to help each other in trouble or
72 JtOURNAL OF A
sickness, which is not natural to the Hottentots. This
gave occasion to many practical observations, and my
quoting the simile used in Scripture, of the intimate con-
nexion of the members of the body, that if one suffer the
whole is affected, with explanations given by some of the
missionaries present, seemed to make a deep impression
upon them. They with one consent expressed their
thankfulness for having received more teachers, and for
my visit. Father Marsveld's manner in leading the
conversation, was that of a sensible parent addressing
sensible children. To me, this opportunity of noticing
the disposition of the Hottentots, when converted to
Christ, was singularly agreeable and important. Short-
ly after, they all came into my room, to pay me a special
visit, and once more to bid me welcome. The camera
obscura happening to stand in a position, which showed
the church and the grove, with people passing and re-
passing, exceedingly amused and astonished them.
A messenger now announced that Stephen was in a
dying state, and Brother Bonatz immediately went to see
him once more, but on arriving at the house, found that
he had just breathed his last. The case of this poor man
and his family distressed and disturbed my mind. Both
he and his wife were worthy members of the congrega-
tion, and now, in the midst of family troubles, they are
separated, when the assistance of the husband seemed
most needed.
As Sunday is generally a day, on which strangers at-
tend divine worship, or visit the settlement, the Holy
Communion is always held in the evening, when there
are no intruders. At half past seven the communicant
congregation assembled in the church. What shall I
say of this solemnity ! I wished all my friends, who take
fehare in the success of the Missions of our Church, to
be present. What a miracle is here wrought by the
power of God, through the simple preaching of the word
of the Cross ! What must the feelings of those men
be, who first were employed in the renewal of this Mis-
sion, no longer ago than in 1792, when they behold the
effects of their labours. I made this remark to Father
Marsveld. His answer was — " It is so clearly the work
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 73
of God, and not of man, that we almost forget that we
have at all been employed in it. When we came hither^
our utmost hope was, that we might perhaps, in a course
of years, see forty or fifty Hottentots converted and
formed into a Christian congregation ; and as we were
travelling towards this place, we prayed to our Saviour,
that He might bless and support us ; and if He granted
us the favour to see but one soul converted in truth, we
should think ourselves well rewarded. And now, when
we behold what He has done, we are indeed overwhelmed
with gratitude and amazement : but not unto us, not un-
to us^ to His name alone be all the glory and all the
praise." This was likewise the constant expression of
Father Schwinn : he once said to me of his own accord,
" We are unprofitable servants and sinful men ; we have
done many things amiss, and have nothing to boast of,
but mercy. The Lord forgave us our sins, healed every
breach, and helped us to serve Him with gladness from
day to day, while we beheld the effects produced by
the power of His Word and Spirit.'' That venerable
apostle, George Schmidt, and Father Kuehnel, are in
heaven, rejoicing before the throne of the Lamb over the
success of the faithful labours of God's servants on
earth.
But to return to the celebration of the Lord's supper.
The devotion and fervour, with which the Hottentots
present attended to the service, and received the sacred
elements, were peculiarly striking to my mind. Their
singing was melodious, but rather too soft. I was told
in apology, that not all of them were acquainted with
the hymns sung by the minister who officiated. A Post-
Communion followed, for such as had been necessarily
prevented from attending before, by family duties,
watching, or other hinderances. I retired to my room, ra-
ther overwhelmed by the feelings and reflections of my
mind, and with a heart filled with thankfulness to God
our Saviour for such a manifestation of bis power and
grace as I had just witnessed. It may appear like en-
thusiasm, but I asked no longer, " Am I really and bo-
dily in Gnadenthal?" but, " Am I yet on earth ?"
22d. Having promised Brother Leitner, that I would
IG
fj^ JOURNAL OF A
accompany him to-day on a visit to his wife, who had for
some weeks been confined by illness at the warm-bath
near Caledon, we prepared to leave Gnadenthal imme-
diately after the morning-service, which on the day fol-
lowing the celebration of the Holy Communion, is a Li-
turgy for thanksgiving. 1 was astonished to see the
church well filled, and all the communicants yet in their
Sunday's dress, neat and clean. U some of my Cape
friends, who often described the Hottentots as an incor-
rigible set of lazy, dirty, and ragged creatures, were to
see this congregation on such occasions, they would at
least say, that here^ facts do not prove their assertion
true. At the Communion, most of the women are dress-
ed in clean white gowns. Both men and women save
their best apparel, that they may appear decent at
church on Sundays, but there is no affectation of finery
among them.
We set off in our own wagon and ten oxen, for the
warm-bath. Brother Thomsen accompanying us. The
weather was fine, and the haze hovering about the mid-
dle region of the mowntains, only served to make their
outUne and the distances of different ridges more dis-
tinct. I have nowhere seen any chain of mountains of a
more picturesque and imposing appearance. Some of
the low heathy hills, forming the valley in which Gna-
denthal lies, have fanciful shapes, and rocky ledges
about half way up the ascent. At Klemm's farm, we
made but a short stay, and proceeded on the Cape road
for about eight English miles, w^hen we turned to the
left, towards the Zwarteberg. This is a bleak mountain
of moderate height, furrowed, as it were, with rocky
kloofs on the north side. The chief amusement on these
journeys is the contemplation of the singular ranges of
bills, which form the horizon. On doubling the west
corner of the Zwarteberg, a high mountain, called the
Tower of Babel, presents itself with much grandeur.
^ The town or village of Caledon is but as a sapling
rising out of the ground, the houses are neat, and the
church in form of a cross, without a steeple. The cir-
cumjacent country is naked, and a barren waste, except-
ing a few green spots of cultivation in the vale.
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 75
The warm-baths are about one English mile beyond
the town, under the south declivity of the mountain. We
were welcomed by our friends and Dr. Hassner, the
proprietor of the baths, with great cordiality ; the latter
conducted me to his house, where I met with a very
hospitable reception, and excellent accommodations.
Some friends came and spent an hour with us.
23d. I rose early, intending to try the effect of the
warm bath, and found it the best possible remedy both
against the rheumatism, and the prickly heat, which still
haunted me. After breakfast with Brother Leitner's
family. Dr. Hassner took me in his curricle to Caledon,
where we waited upon the deputy-Ianddrost, Mr. Von
Frauenfelder. Our friends followed us on foot. It
proved a very pleasant visit; the landdrost showed us
the church, and the prison, here called the Tronk. Hav-
ing also paid our respects to the minister, the Rev. Mr.
Voss, we returned to dinner.
The efficacy of the warm-baths is universally ac-
knowledged by all who have used them, both inhabitants
of this colony, and invalids from the East Indies. After
dinner, we visited the hot springs. They are situated
in an eminence behind the new bathing-house. The
principal one proceeds from an opening, about a foot
and a half wide, the depth of which is not yet ascertain-
ed. The temperature of the water is 1 1 8^^ Fahrenheit
at the spring, and 112 in the bath. Between two hot
springs a cold spring rises, which has water of a dif-
ferent quality, and comparatively extremely cold. The
soil on this part of the mountain is a black mould, as fine
as powder. Shrubs and plants cover it and prevent its be-
ing carried off by the wind. It is but shallow, and lies
upon a crust of iron-stone of singular texture, porous,
bulbous, and its fissures in some parts filled with a glis-
tening substance. Most of it appears to have passed
through fire ; here and there showing decomposition,
and yielding a bright yellow ochre. I have called it a
crust of iron-stone, because it sounds hollow under one's
feet, as though it covered a vacuum, which, however, is
not Dr. Hassner's opinion, but rather, that it is elastic.
In one place, ^n opening or chasm appears, which is
76 lOURNAL OF A
said to have been occasioned by an eruption. On our
return, we visited the old baths, higher up the hill.
In the evening, Dr. Hassner gave me a detailed de-
scription of the loss of the Arntston East Indiaman off
Cape Aguillas, which happened about the end of May
1815. The catastrophe was terrific. About three hun-
dred souls perished, among whom w^ere Lord and Lady
Molesworth, with other persons of high character. I
could hardly fall asleep, so deep was the impression
made upon my mind by the Doctor's eloquent account of
the horror of this scene.
24th. After breakfast, Brother Thomsen accompanied
me to some eminences in front of the buildings, of which,
and of the village, I made a sketch. On my return, we
were visited by Mr. Hoetz, a merchant, and by the land-
drost of Caledon. Sister Leitner being rather better in
health, the company spent the day very pleasantly to-
gether. After tea, I set out with Brother Thomsen to
examine the rocky summit of the Zwarteberg. Beyond
the iron-stone region, quartz is found in abundance; in-
numerable flowers and shrubs of great variety grow
among the rocks, and a botanist finds here a rich har-
vest.
The mountain is very properly called the Zwarteberg,
or the Black Mountain^ for it is an assemblage of black,
barren, rocky hillocks, rising one above the other in
strange confusion, inhabited only by jackals, w^olves, ty-
gers, and serpents.
We were insensibly led from one eminence to the
other, enjoying the prospect on all sides, and amusing
ourselves with the contemplation of the plants, here and
there luxuriantly growing between the stones, on a very
thin covering of earth, when the setting sun reminded
us of the necessity of returning by the shortest path.
This we missed, and got among broken rocks, where
almost every step was attended with danger. We sup-
ped all together at the baths, and I found the conversa-
tion of my worthy host so interesting, that I did not re-
tire to rest till after midnight.
25th. About half past six, we took leave of our old
and new acquamtances, with prayers for the speedy re-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 77
covery of our "worthy friend, Sister Leitner, and took the
road along the south side of the Zwarteberg. The
country is mostly barren, without a tree or bush to clothe
its brown surface. Not a green spot is seen, excepting
where, in the bed of some torrent, descending from the
precipitous declivity of the mountain, a little moisture
has been left behind. The Zwarteberg stretches about
ten English miles, in a south-west and north-east direc-
tion, and is perfectly barren.
We passed through a farm, where, by an act of jus-
tice, formerly unknown in this country, the possessors
have been taught, that English law admits of no respect
of persons; but when administered according to the con-
stitution, provides security and justice for the lowest, as
well as the highest ranks of society. The wife, with the
assistance of her daughter, a girl of about eighteen years
of age, had most unmercifully beaten a female slave in
iheir service, though with child, wounding her from head
to foot. Complaints of this act of barbarity having been
brought before the Judge, at the circuit, lately establish-
ed in this colony, and the cruel perpetrators being found
guilty, they were condemned to pay three hundred rix-
dollars fine, two thousand rix-dollars costs of suit, and
that their slaves should all be sold, but not to one of
their family. The farm appeared in a very dilapidated
state.
Some Hottentot women belonging to Gnadenthal, be-*
ing at work in the field, ran towards our wagon, ex-
pressed in the most friendly manner their joy at seeing
their teachers, and delivered some little commissions to
our driver and leader for their friends and families. I
was vastly pleased with this rencontre. We halted at a
farm, where the family gave us a friendly reception. I
had been all day troubled with violent headach, but was
cured by some hot tea, which, though proceeding from a
dirty pewter urn, with sops of spider's legs, and frag-
ments of the wings and bodies of flies, gave me almost
immediate relief : whether owing to the decoction of
these particles of insects, to the heat of the water, or any
other cause, I waited not to examine, but felt thankful
for my recovery.
78 JOURNAL OF A
The road now turned towards the Gnadenthal moun-
tains, which, from some eminences, had a truly magnifi-
cent appearance. We visited a farmer of the name of
Kuntz, whom we found in an aihng state : he however
came down and conversed with us. His farm Ues along
a pretty valley, with an overflowing stream, and a con-
siderable tract of land under cultivation : the house is
large and roomy, and some of the ceilings are made of
a fine yellow or olive-coloured wood from Ceylon. We
now moved slowly towards our home, on bad roads and
with weary cattle, but delighted with the prospect ; and
about eight o'clock arrived in the shady recesses of
Gnadenthal, the very sight of which affords comfort in
this hot and sultry region.
26th. After breakfast. Brother Clemens accompanied
me into the garden, the burial-ground, and other pre-
mises, when I mentioned to him some ideas of improve-
ment, by which regularity and beauty might, in my opi-
nion, be much furthered, at a small expense. But I will
candidly confess, that by the time I had been a few
months in Africa, and become better acquainted with the
difiiculties presenting themselves on all sides, in promot-
ing improvement, both moral and physical, I was rather
disposed to stand astonished at what had been done, in
so short a time, by our Brethren in this place, and at
Groenekloof, than to expect immediate attention to my
suggestions. Those venerable men, Marsveld and
Schwinn, heard my remarks with great patience and
forbearance, as they were never made, but under a con-
viction of my being a novice, and with all due and un-
feigned deference to their better judgment. I also saw
an improvement, which pleased me. We visited the
people who were cutting and drying peaches in the mis-
sionaries' garden. Formerly the fruit was laid upon a
platform constructed of broom, fastened to, and support-
ed by uprights fixed in the ground. If it rained long,
the peaches were spoiled, as they could not be removed,
and the platform itself suffered great damage during the
wet season. The Bi ethren were now gradually introduc-
ing moveable racks or platforms, made of bamboo and
reed wattling, and placed loose on a frame, which could
VISIT To SOUTH AFRICA, 79
be easily taken off, and with the load of fruit carried in-
to a dry shed, and when not in use stowed away in a
small compass.
In the forenoon, we met in conference. Thirty-four
persons were appointed for advance in church-privileges,
from a list of about fifty under consideration. After
dinner, they were called by the chapel-servants into the
dining-room ; first, those to be admitted among the can-
didates for baptism ; then, the persons to be baptized ;
and lastly, some, who, having been baptized as children,
were to be received into the congregation. After being
informed of the advance they were to make, they were
earnestly exhorted to walk worthy of the grace conferred
upon them. The answers given to the very solemn
questions put to them, were generally clear, and evi-
dently proceeding from their hearts. I could not but
admire the manner in which this service was conducted
by the presiding missionary.
To-day I attended a meeting of the men for instruc-
tion in the Christian doctrines, in which Father Schwinn,
besides asking some questions in the way of chatechisa-
tion, delivered a very animated discourse. From the
church I proceeded to the school, vi^here Brother Lem-
merz was introduced to the boys as their future school-
master. They took leave of his predecessor, Brother
Leitner, and promised obedience, by giving their hands.
A class was then called, that I might hear them spell and
read, which they did very well, considering that the va-
jcation, during the harvest, always brings with it some
forgetfulness of what has been learned. Some of the
poor boys come to school in their karosses and aprons,
others are dressed in linen jackets and trowsers. The
school-house is a very convenient, roomy building. As I
had brought with me a present of bibles and testaments
from the British and Foreign Bible Society, I took this
opportunity of speaking to the children, and observing,
that I should be glad, on my return, to be able to inform
that venerable society that they were well bestowed.
In the evening, the Liturgy, or hymn, treating of our
Saviour's sufferings, appointed in our Church for Friday
evening's worship, was sung in a spirit of humble thank-
80 JOURNAL OF A
fulness for our redemption. This is the grand subject,
which has proved the means of conversion, civilization,
and happiness in time and eternity, to believers of every
tribe and nation. May it be and remain our constant
theme, in spite of either a deriding world, or the vain
conceits and specious arguments of such as pretend to
superior insight, and think that they have found something
higher and more effectual.
I have seen to-day much of the course of a missionary
station, where there are many descriptions of persons to
attend to ; and I am convinced, that if a missionary does
his duty, there is occasion for the exertion of all the
energies of mind and body. May we always be favoured
with missionaries, who can say with truth: " The Love
of Christ constraineth us.^^
27th. I spent the forenoon at my desk. After dinner,
while others were taking their African nap, which does
not yet agree with me, I took a walk about the premises,
and ascended the hill to the right, coming out of the
kloof My intention was to seek a spot, from whence a
view might be taken of the missionaries' premises, show-
ing the church;, a part of every house, and the garden.
On my return, finding the church-door open, I entered
and climbed into the roof Here I found two Hottentots
at work, who gave me some information about the build-
ing. The timber used was allowed by Government to be
cut in the forest of Soete Melks Valley. After coffee,
the Brethren Clemens and Lemmerz went with me into
the kloof On the road we were called to by some Hot-
tentots, who had just caught a tree-serpent. It was a
beautiful creature, about four ket long, mottled gray on
the back, with a gold-yellow belly. These reptiles are
said to be very venomous, and haunt trees and bushes.
After a most pleasant walk, we returned, admiring the
view of Gnadenthal church, as it presents itself at the
opening of the kloof The rocks on both sides of the
glen are of a deep brown-red colour.
28th. This was a day of peculiar happiness and com-
fort to many in this congregation, both to those who
were admitted to church privileges, as above stated, and
to all who took share in the prosperity of this work of
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 8J
God. After an anisiated sermon by Father Marsvel(L
two children were baptized. I was again, as at Gro^-
nekloof, greatly edified by the questions put to, and an-
swers given by the parents, previous to the solemn
transaction. To see the widow of poor Stephen, lately
killed by the kick of a horse, now appearing with her
infant at the baptismal font, was a very affecting sight,
and she was particularly recommended to the prayers
and kind notice of the congregation. At three in the af-
ternoon w-as the baptism of nine men, and six women.
All ordained ministers were engaged in this service. I
baptized three, one of whom was a CafFre, Klaas Stoffel.
Brother Bonatz addressed both the large audiencpj
which filled the church, and the candidates about to be
baptized, in a manner so as to raise great attention. In
the evening, we met again for the reception of three
children of Christian parents into the congregation.
Truly the presence of Him, who has promised to be
with His people alway, even to the end of the world,
was felt by most, if not all, who attended on these so-
lemnities.
29th. I was present at the morning-meeting for Chris-
tian instruction, and afterwards, at the girls' school : one
hundred and eleven children had assembled. They
took leave of Father Marsveld, who had hitherto been
their teacher, and received Brother Leitner in the man-
ner before described. It was affecting to see many of
them clinging about Father Marsveld, and with many
tears shaking hands, to thank him for his kindness to-
wards them, as their teacher. Some of the bigger girls
seemed quite disconsolate, and cried for a long time
without ceasing. About a hundred and thirty girls be-
long to the school.
To-day, Brother Bonatz introduced to me a Hottentot
captain, who lives at Gnadenthal. He did not look
much like a man in office, wore a very shabby jacket,
and had neither shoes nor stockings. Brother Bonatz
informed me, that he was very poor; and having
brought a parcel of old clothes with me, to distribute
among th,e poor, I presented him with a scarlet jacket,
given me by a Bristol volunteer, which I happenec;! to
1 7
82 JOURNAL OB' A
have among my store. I asked him to try it on, and as
it fitted him well, told him that it was his, and suited
him as an English captain. He could hardly believe,
that he vras really put in possession of such a treasure,
and strutted off with it, to the admiration of many pas-
sengers on the road, who stood in surprise at the con-
trast between the upper part of his attire, and the state
of his legs and feet.
30th. Eight new-people obtained leave to live here,
on trial. 1 spent most of the day at home.
31st. At the meeting for the children, about three
hundred attended. After dinner, two Hottentots called
upon me, by appointment, with Avhom Brother Bonatz
and I wished to confer, relative to the best situation in
the interior for a third mFssionary settlement. They
proposed an examination of the banks of the Chamtoos-
Revier in Uitenhagen district, where they mentioned a
place formerly occupied by Hottentots, and abounding
with wood and water. It was also their opinion, that
several suitable situations might be found on that river,
and many Hottentots from Gnadenthal would be willing
to remove into that part of the colony. We determined
to visit some of the most intelligent farmers in the neio-h-
bouring country, and consult them about the best means^
of making a journey into the interior.
Being desirous of penetrating as far as possible into
the kloof, the missionaries Thomsen and Lemmerz accom-
panied me into it, this afternoon, and as we were new-
comers, we enjoyed all the pleasure expectation affords,
in making a journey of discovery. We arrived at the
spot where the kloof is divided by three round^topped
hillocks, which are partially covered with brush-wood.
The brown-red rocks, on all sides, have a singular ap-
pearance, their layers inclining chiefly from east to west.
We turned to the right along the brook, which flow?
under hanging rocks, shelving forwards to a considera-
ble height, and scrambled along, through thick bushes,
and over huge masses of stone, till we were stopped by
the quantity of water, rushing in numberless cascades
between them, in all directions. Here are some very
picturesque groups of brush-wood, rock, and water.
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 83
which would furnish interesting subjects for the pencil
of an able artist.
In the evening, I spent a very agreeable hour with
Father Marsvclcl, whose instructive conversation I de-
light to enjoy. H^ gave me a detailed account of the
troubles which he and his two worthy associates expe-
rienced, in the beginning of their labours in this desert^
till God sent the English to put a stop to the opposition
of evil-disposed people. These misguided men went so
far as to hand about a paper, to be signed by the neigh-
bouring farmers, by which they should bind themselves
not to supply the missionaries with the necessaries of
life, which, at that early period, they could not procure
otherwise than by^purchase. Some refused to sign the
paper, and others were raised up by God to become
their friends. He will reward them for the cup of cold
water given to His servants in that day.
I spent the 1st of February chiefly at home. In
the afternoon, while I was drawing by the help of the
camera obscura, several Hottentots gathered round me,
whom I gratified by letting one after the other peep
into it. One called to another passing by, " Come and
peep, Susan, Mynheer has brought the churchy and all
the trees, into his box*"
CHAPTER jV.
Visit to Messieurs Tennis^ senior and junior^ and to Mr.
Linde. Account of a Funeral. Consultations regarding
a reconnoitring journey into the interior. A Hottentot
garden described. Journey to Groenekloof. JYight spent
in the Wilderness. Arrival at Groenekloof. Excessive
heat. Storm of Thunder. Birthday. Transactions at
Capetown. Mr. Melville. Visit to Kerstenbosch^ and
to JVewlands. Return to Gnadenthal. Uncertain de-
pendence on African hospitality. Fires on the Mountains.
JYursery of young trees. Gravestones. Singing of the
Hottentot women. Hottentot Clans. Visit the boundary
of the Settlement. Brother Bonatz'^s farewell. Instance
84 JOURNAL Oii' A
of good discipline. Arrival of Brother Schnitt and Mr.
Melville^ at Gnadenthal. Preparations for the recon-
noitring journey.
February 2nd. Brother Bonatz, Brother Clemens and
his wife, Sister Kohrhammer, and I, set out on a visit to
some farmers, who, being acquainted with the interior,
could give information respecting the Chamtoos-Revier,
and other situations proposed to me as suitable for a
third settlement. Our equipage was a covered wagon,
drawn by ten hired oxen, with a driver and leader. We
Eassed the Bavians-Revier, and turned up the heathy
ills, behind the Caffre-Kraal, towards Stoflfels-KraaL
Brother Bonatz walked with me to an eminence, from
which I could overlook a great part of the boundary of
Gnadenthal. There is indeed, to appearance, a suffi-
cient quantity of land, for every purpose of culture and
pasturage ; but of four thousand acres, granted to the
Brethren by Government, the greater part is barren,
and incapable of cultivation ; or at least of that descrip-
tion, that the expense required to make it fit for use,
would be much greater than we could well afford. Stof-
fels-Kraal is an ancient Hottentot station, but now for-
saken. There is, however, some good land along a
small gully, now dry. From hence we went to the farm
of a widow, Mrs. Giebeler, whom we did not find at
home. It is, like most farms in this neighbourhood, an
assemblage of mean houses and sheds, but the planta-
tions are fine, consisting of large peach orchards, and
gardens, surrounded by avenues of firs, and of groves of
various kinds of trees. This place likewise belonged to
a tribe of Hottentots, but was taken from them, by a
species of robbery, very common in former days, when
for a few bottles of brandy, or some other trifling con-
sideration, the best lands in their possession were pur-
chased of them ; and the Hottentot captain, perhaps in
a state of intoxication, led to some magistrate, by whom
the shameful bargain was ratified. The poor fellow did
not come to his senses till it was too late, when he per-
ceived with dismay how he had suffered himself and his
people to be duped.
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 83
Our road now led through a barre'n country. In
about three hours we arrived at the Sieckenhaus, the
residence of Mjnheer Teunis senior. It was interesting
to me to see and converse with this man, who, at the
commencement of the mission, rendered essential ser-
vices to the three Brethren, till their unexpected success
in collecting a congregation of Hottentots made him, for
a season, a dangerous enemy. He is however again
considered as a friend, and received us with cordiahty.
He seemed pleased, when I informed him, that ever
since the renovation of the mission, I had been well ac-
quainted with his name and services, when, by orders
from the Dutch Governor, in 1792, he first brought the
missionaries to Bavians-Kloof, and lodged them in his
house, at Soete Melks Valley, till they could put up a
cottage for themselves. Though upwards of seventy
years old, he is full of activity, of a very intelligent
mind, and seemed interested in all that passes here and
in Europe.
On consulting him about the best place for a third set-
tlement, he recommended an examination of the banks,
both of the Chamtoos, and Kierbooms Reviers, and
named several situations, the advantages of which he
enumerated.
Wo trees or hedges adorn his pre,mises, except four
small oaks behind, and two Chinese rose-trees before the
house. The river Sonderend flows in the vale, but its
waters, in this dry season, are hid from view by large
shrubs, brush-wood, broom, and reed-grass, growing in
its very bed. The view of the mountains is grand, and
makes amends for the melancholy appearance of the
plain.
After dinner, we set out for Mr. Linde's farm, lying like-
wise on the Sonderend. A sudden change of weather
had taken place. Clouds began first to hover above,
then to obscure, the highest peaks, and gradually to en-
velop the whole range of mountains. We hastened
therefore to get under shelter, and after a short visit to
Mr. Teunis's son Jan, reached Mr. Linde's house, just
before the rain came on. It lies not far from the river
Sonderend, which, in mobt places, ip hid by bushes. I
86 JOURNAL OF A
had expected to iind a man, formerly in the employ of
Government, as a commander of Hottentots in the Caf-
fre war, a Veldcornet, and justly esteemed as a truly
respectable character throughout the country, inhabit-
ing a well-built mansion, and I was preparing a hand-
some apology, for not appearing in full dress, till I saw
his miserable cottage and its homely furniture. But Afri-
can and English ideas, of the necessity of suiting your
appearance to your rank, widely differ, and a man of
consequence is here not less respected for the shabbi-
ness of his attire, or the wretched and ruinous state of
his house and premises.
Brother Bonatz was highly diverted at my disappoint-
ment, especially when, Mr. Linde not having returned
from his fields, our reception seemed rather dry. As
-soon, how^ever^ as he entered, though clad in an old
jacket and trowsers, and barefoot, the ease and urbani-
ty of his manners, and the kindness with which he press-
ed us to spend the night at his house, showed him in his
true character, as a well-bred, intelligent >gentleman.
He had already one guest, and a farmer from the south
arriving^ he gave him also a friendly invitation, though
the size of the cottage did not seem to furnish accommo-
dations for so many. Some black coffee without milk,
as is here the fashion, was handed round, and we soon
entered into conversation respecting the aim of our
visit.
Mr. Linde seemed exactly to coincide in opinion with
Mr. Tennis, as to the country on the Chamtoos-Revier,
but did not advise us to attempt a settlement on the
Kierbooms-Revier. He was not well disposed towards
the Caffres, but described them as a people without faith,
to whom the British Government showed undeserved
lenity.
The rain ceasing for sometime, after sunset, I walked
with Brother Clemens to the river, and found the rocky
banks to consist of the same ferruginous sand-stone,
which abounds every where. Here and there, it seemed
to rest on a bed of a species of slate or Thonschiefer, of
a blue-gray colour.
At supper, no beverage of any kind was on the table,
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 87
and our host informed us, that he never drank either
beer, wine, or spirits, but only water. I therefore called
for water, when the slave-girl in waiting brought me a
slop-basin full, no glass being used in this house. The
supper was abundant, and well dressed. The conver-
sation turned upon some of the beasts of prey haunting
this country, when the Southland farmer gave an ac-
count of the depredations lately committed by wolves
and wild-dogs, in his neighbourhood, the latter being
numerous between the mountains and the coast. Ty-
gers are not often seen; they skulk about the cattle-
kraals, and in the woods, but wolves roam singly, all
over the downy or heathy country. The wild-d'ogs go
in packs, are very bold and mischievous, and will attack
oxen, horses and sheep, in spite of watchmen and dogs.
Both they and the wolves attack always either from be-
hind, or in flank, never in front, as a tyger does. Ser-
pents are more dangerous to man. Mr. Linde related,
that a wood-keeper he employed in the kloofs, had late-
ly lost his life by the bite of a Berg-adder. He died be-
fore notice could reach his master, and assistance be
sent, which was in about three hours. Not long since,
one of his oxen was bitten, on the road, by a Puff-adder,
and died the same night. The bite of the Nachtschlange,.
or night-serpent, is said by the Hottentot poison-doctors
to be incurable. It is a beautiful creature, marked with
dark blue or black, vermillion and yellow rings, follow-
ing each other from head to tail.
Some time after supper, the ladies retired, but Brother
Bonatz and I received still much entertainment and infor-
mation from our host and his guests, who were sensible,
pleasant companions, till at length we requested to be
shown into our bed-room. In passing through an ante-
chamber, we found a Dutch folio bible, and a testament
in octavo, lying on the wnndt)w-seat. Both had been
used, the latter some time ago, for it had lain so long
with the leaves upon the boards, that the opened pages
had assumed the colour of the wood. As for the bible-
one use of long prefaces, introductory exhortations, and
other prolegomena, with which these ancient editions
abound, was here rendered manifest, for thev had saved
88 JOURNAL OF A
the text of the Scriptures itseh", as some of the family had
torn out the greater part both of the first and last leaves,
and had not yet reached either Genesis or the Revela-
tions, the latter beuig defended by a translation of Jose-
Ehus's account of the destruction of Jerusalem. Thus
y a timely remonstrance, I hope the bible itself has
been saved. It was furnished with very good prints, in
the old Dutch style of engraving.
On entering the bed-room, how great was my astonish-
ment, now to discover, how our hospitable landlord had
provided for so many guests ! We found Brother Clem-
ens and his wife, lying in one, Sister Kohrhammer in
another, and a bedstead for us, in a third corner of the
room. A square hole in the wall served for a window.
A savoury supper, without any thing to drink, had crea-
ted sufficient thirst to keep our friends awake. They
were eagerly expecting our arrival, as Brother Bonatz
had the key of the wagon-chest, who was now called up-
on to administer a draught of wine and water to each of
the party. Trying to open the shutter for air, it fell out,
and as we could not leave the square hole open, for fear
of a visit from some of the numerous dogs, which guard-
ed the pren)ises, I had some trouble in recovering and
fastening the shutter again. These operations, and the
amusement occasioned by the remarks made on the ac-
commodations afforded in the mansion of an African
'squire, kept us some time awake, and when at last I at-
tempted to join my friend in his narrow couch, I found it
utterly impossible. I therefore put on my boots and
great coat, and sitting on the bed, leaning my head
against the wall, got a very sound nap. To complete our
happiness, we were all night serenaded by the cries of
Mrs. Linde's children, in an adjoining apartment; and
roused early in the morning by the dying screams of a
poor pig, which, as we were afterwards informed, was
butchered to provide us with a good breakfast. This
was the first time I had spent a night in the enjoyment
of African hospitality, and Brother Bonatz assured me,
of what I was in the sequel sufficiently convinced, that it
was much better than I had to expect, when travelling
into the interior. We were greeted by our cheerful host
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 89
in the morning, with his hopes that we had found our-
j^elves comfortably lodged, and which we could answer
in the afTirmative without hypocrisy, for his good will,
and desire to please us, made every thing bearable.
He provided us with an excellent breakfast, broiled
pork, omelets, eggs, tea and coffee, with milk and grapes
m abundance, and though custom has excluded attention
to what Englishmen call the comforts, yet there seems to
be no want of the necessaries of life, and no feehng of
inconvenience attending the absence of neatness, and
elegance. We took leave of Mr. Linde, with sentiments
of gratitude and esteem, having obtained from him suffi-
cient information respecting the country I was about to
visit, and proceeded to Gaense-Kraal, which at some dis-
tance appeared very inviting with groves of lofty oaks
and pines. We forded the Sonderend close to the farm,
but on entering, found the building in a very dilapidated
state, and the gardens much neglected. Sister Kohrham-
mer was also here unsuccessful, in her endeavours to
procure some articles of house-keeping, for Gnadenthah
We admired the oaks growing on these premises.
They are an additional proof, that had the first settlers
been attentive to the growth of timber, both for their
own and their children's sake, they would now have had
timber and fuel sufficient, and not been under the neces-
sity of fetching the former from Plettenberg-bay, and
the Zitzikamma, and of stripping the country of its
bushes, to procure the latter. 1 am convinced, from the
experience made at Gnadenthal, and many other places,
that whole forests of oak and other useful timber, might
be reared in a short space of time, wherever the soil re-
tains any moisture. But it appears as if neither the first
settlers nor their descendants had the least notion of
providing for posterity. Many answers given to me by
boors, otherwise intelligent, proved that their only
thought is, " What shall we eat ? What shall we drink,
and wherewith shall we be clothed ? How shall we in-
crease our herds of cattle, and leave to our children a
set of fine beasts."
Mr. Teunis senior, who is one of the ^most sensible
and shrewd men I have seen in this country, very ironi-
12
90 JOURNAL OF A
cally described the indolent life of the common African
boors, in answer to some observations I made on the
possibility of improving the cultivation of the country.
•^ What,*" said he, " would you have us do ? We have
nothing to do, but to till our bellies, to get good clothes,
and houses ; to say to one slave, do this, and to another,
do that, and ourselves to sit idle, and be waited on ; and
as to our mode of tillage, or building, or planting, our
forefathers did so and so, and were satisfied, and why
should not w^e be the same. The English want us to
use their ploughs, instead of our heavy wooden ones,
and recommend other implements of husbandry than
those we have been used to, but we like our old things
best."
From Gaense-Kraal, w^e proceeded to Soete-Melks-
Valley, and Hartebeest-Kraal, the farm of Mr. William,
Teunis. As we approached this place, the chain of
mountains to the right assumed an appearance singular-
ly romantic and beautiful. They are chiefly huge
masses of rock, extremely rugged and precipitous, full
of kloofs, and chasms, within which, upon but a scanty
portion of soil, trees grow to a considerable height.
The sides of the mountains, in many places, look like
immense walls, supported by conical buttresses.
Mr. William Teunis is an intelligent man. He had
been employed as a commandant in the wars, both
against the Catfres, and the rebellious boors, but seemed
cautious in giving his opinion respecting the cause of the
rebellion.
An old schoohnaster, who attended his children, hear-
ing that we were lovers of music, treated us with some
pieces on the violin. We obtained here likewise some
useful information, and after dinner, set out for Gnaden-
thai. Our driver, Paul, set his oxen a-going at a rate I
had nevei; yet seen. Ten of these long-horned animals
in full gallop is a sight truly ridiculous. About eight
in the evening, we reached our home. Here we heard,
that a tyger had been seen behind Brother Leitner's
garden, at the entrance of the kloof, and that a great
many Hottentots, armed with guns and other weapons,
had gone in search of him, but in vain.
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 91
4th. After the forenoon's service, and the baptism of
A child, we attended the funeral of a poor Hottentot
woman. 1 guess the company that followed her re-
mains to the grave to have been about three hundred
in number. The Hottentot mode of burying in our
settlement is this : The corpse being neatly tied or sow-
ed up in skins, is laid on a bier, and covered with a
white sheet. The bier is borne by six men, members of
the congregation, dressed in white jackets and trowsers.
After the funeral-discourse, as soon as the people have
arranged themselves in front of the church, a verse is
sung, treating of the happiness of those who have de-
parted this life in the faith of Christ. The boys' school
begins the procession, then follows the minister, prece-
ding the corpse, the relations next, and lastly, the rest
of the congregation two and two; the men or women ta~
king the lead, according to the sex of the deceased. As
soon as the company arrive at the burial-ground, the
bier being placed next to the grave, the congregation
range themselves around the ground in order. The
Liturgy at burials is then read, during w^hich, two of the
bearers, descending into the grave, receive the body from
those above, and place it in a recess, made on one side,
at the bottom. The service being concluded, bushes or
branches of trees are put in as high as the top of the re-
cess, and the earth thrown in upon them. Of the origin
of this custom 1 could obtain no information, but as it is
done w^ith the greatest decency, the missionaries have
wisely refrained from obliging the Hottentots to discon-
tinue the practice of making a recess, and using the
branches or bushes. Europeans are buried in the man-
ner usual in Europe, and the service and liturgy are the
same. In the evening-meeting of the whole missionary
family, I communicated some recent letters from our
Brethren in Greenland.
5th. At a special conference, we took into serious con-
sideration, the measures to be adopted in making a re-
connoitring journey into the interior, and my proposal to
take Brother Schmitt and his wife, of Groenekloof, and
one of the two single Brethren Lemmerz or Stein with
me, was approved, I had made some experience of
92 JOURNAL OP A
Cape travelling, sufficient to discover that it is no luxury ;
but I came thither to serve the mission, and not to seek
my ease. I therefore gladly entered upon this service,
though the only plan, w^hich we could form at present^
w^a&, to take our own wagon and oxen, and to purchase
an additional spann, in the interior, to help us along. It
will be seen by the narrative of that journey, that, by
God's gracious providence, we were enabled to per-
form it on a plan much more eligible and effective ; with-
out which, indeed, all our contrivances would have been
rendered abortive. Thus committing our case and our-
selves to His care and guidance, we are sure to be di-
rected in the best way.
I resolved to go in a few days to Groenekloof, and
both there, and at the Cape, to make the needful ar-^
rangements, and obtain His Excellency the Governor's
permission and sanction. In the afternoon, I was busily
employed in making a drawing of the missionaries' premi-^
ses from the hill to the right, coming out of the kloof,
having lately found a situation from which I could see
some part of every building belonging to them.
In the evening. Father Marsveld, after a suitable dis-
course, offered up a fervent prayer for the prosperity of
the work of God on earth, particularly among the hea-
then, the Brethren having here followed the practice of
other missionary societies in England and Holland, to
meet for this purpose every first Monday in the month.
6th. I attended the instructions given by Father Mars-
veld to a person who was to be confirmed, previous to
her admission to the Lord's supper. I was greatly edi*
fied and affected by the simplicity, cordiality and genuine
piety with which this venerable man imparted his in-
struction to the candidate, as well as with the attention
and devotion with which she received it. At the con-
clusion, he offered up a fervent prayer in her behalf, and
both he and his wife added some suitable exhortations
respecting her future walk and conversation, as a wor-
thy communicant, and child of God.
In the afternoon. Brother Lemmerz accompanied me
to the hill on the other side of the Bavians-Revier, and
to the garden-grounds belonging to the Hottentots. A
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 93
little man, very ill dressed, beckoned to us, inviting us to
come into his cottage and grounds. From his appear-
ance, I guessed him to be one of those, who were either
too poor or too indolent to provide better for themselves
and their families. I was therefore preparing to impart
some friendly exhortation, when, on stepping within the
outer fence, to my surprise, I saw a hiedge neatly cut
aud trimmed, with a small gate, through which he show-
ed us into one of the best cultivated gardens I have yet
seen in the settlement. It was divided into squares, with
borders of Indian corn, each square containing a differ-
ent kind of produce, beans, potatoes, cabbages, or other
vegetables. The orchard was well stocked with peach,
apricot, pear, and apple-trees, in abundance. The cot-
tage was mean, and his children almost naked. On in-
-quiry, I found, that he was very poor, and had only one
suit of decent clothing, with which the family appeared,
on the Sundaj^s at church. His name was Benjamin
Okkers.
To-day, I received a letter from Mr. Melville, Go-
vernment-surveyor at the Cape. This was the com-
mencement of an acquaintance, which in the sequel
proved a most valuable acquisition, and will always be
considered by me, as one of those unforeseen channels,
by which God, in His providence, conveys mercies unto
us, and grants success to whatever we undertake, ac-
cording to His will.
7th. Two Hottentot women called upon me, purpose-
ly to inquire about the son of their late beloved teacher.
Father Kuehnel, now at Fulnec in Yorkshire. I gave
them every information in my power, and having a print
of Fulnec with me, showed th^m the school, the windows
of the room in which he lived, of the room in which I
was born, and the chapel, which highly delighted them.
I was surprised to find them not at all puzzled by a re-
presentation of this kind. They proved, that they un-
derstood the picture, by asking many sensible questions^
showing more intelligence than a boor, who lately on
seeing an " Ecce homo^''^ (a picture of Christ, crowned
with thorns,) in Father Schwinn's room, inquired, whe-
94 JOURNAL OP A
^
ther it was a picture of the English Governor at the
Cape.
In the evening-meeting, Brother Bonatz mentioned
niy intended journey to the Cape, and in prayer com-
mended me and my company to tlie protection and bless-
ing of God.
8th. At four in the morning, the whole family was at
breakfast, soon after which 1 set out on horseback, ac-
companied by their best wishes for a prosperous jour-
ney. My companion was Brother Lcmmerz, and my
groom, Solomon Pfeifter, a very steady and trust-worthy
Hottentot, with a led horse to carry a portmanteau. I
did not feel quite well, and the missionaries, having
charged Solomon to take all possible care, that I receiv-
ed no harm, he was almost troublesome with his anxieties
about the safety of my person. Perceiving, however,
that 1 meant to ride more soberly than a Hottentot, who
is always in fidl gallop, he observed, that unless Mynheer
used more speed, we should not reach Mr. Alexan-
der:^ larm, beyond Hottentot-Hollands-Kloof, where he
thought I meant to spend the night. But, as the wea-
ther was intensely hot, I had no intention of murder-
ing either myself or our horses, but kept on an easy
pace.
After passing Klemms' farm, we met Brother Leitner
returning with his wit'e from the warm-baths. We all
alighted, and spent a quarter of an hour together in con-
versation. Our lirst halt was at a farm, belonging to a
Mr. Joorst. The heat grew almost intolerable, and we
were glad to retire into any kind of shade ; not a tree or
bush artbrding any delence, against the burning rays of
the sun during the whole journey. The farm, like most
others, is a mass of ruined walls, and wretched hovels.
The master was a paralytic old German, painfully striv-
ing to make himself intelligible to Brother Lemmerz,
and by the help of his son, as interpreter, to satisfy his
eager curiosity about the politics of the day and the fate
of nations, which seemed grievously to trouble the poor
man's brains, and set his lame tongue to work. He had
been a sailor on board a Dutch" Indiaman, some fit>y
years ago. His son was a friendly, hospitable man, an^
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 95
a shoemaker by trade. Some hints, given by my worthy
companion, relating to the necessity of his becoming, in
his present infirm state, better acquainted with the
things of Heaven, than those of the earth, were neither
understood nor taken. We left him with emotions of
sincere compassion.
After a \evy hot ride over the barren desert, we
reached a farm on the Botte-Revier, where f soon recog^
nised the possessor to be my old friend, whom Sister
Clemens and I had visited on our journey to Gnaden-
thal. (p. 5/).) Hither we had sent relay horses which
were ready to carry us forward. But I was in no hur-
ry to proceed, and had serious doubts, whether exposing
myself longer to the rays of the sun were not sporting
with my health, for by the time we reached this place, I
felt quite overcome with heat and fatigue.
Our host, however, treated us with so excellent a dish
of tea, which, as he said, had been given him by an En-
glish traveller some days ago, that it greatly revived my
spirits, and a plate of fine grapes completed my recovery.
Having forded the bed of the river, in which there was
hardly a few inches depth of water, we reached the foot
of a long hill called the Haue Hoek, where the English
have established a turnpike, to cover the expense of
mending the road across the mountain, which formerly
was \ery rough and dangerous. We had resolved to
take up our night's lodging at a German farmer's house,
on the east-side of the mountain, of the name of Urie,
who keeps a kind of inn, and has good accommodations;
but when we reached his place, as it was yet early, I was
disposed to proceed. The road is in general pretty even,
but bere and there carried along a steep slope, which
makes it dangerous for a loaded wagon, if not driven
with great care. The view of the mountains near Hot-
tentots-Holland is grand, and the variety of their shapes
forms a singular outline. After fording the Palmite Re-
vier, we rode up to a farm on the waste, the appearance
of which was not in its favour, nor did we find the master
and mistress at home. We therefore determined on pro-
ceeding to the next farm, belonging to a German of the
name of Sibran.
96 JOURNAL OF A
He received us with a hearty welcome, and though
every part of his premises betrayed poverty and a disre-
gard of order, he gave us a good dish of coifee with
milk, (a rare article in this part of Africa,) and a good
supper : but his accommodations for sleeping were bad.
Brother Lemmerz and I were jammed into a narrow bed-
stead, and our Hottentot groom, contrary to the usual
etiquette, lay down in the same room on the floor. The
furniture of this dark chamber was in unison with gene-
ral appearances. On a broken chair lay a quantity of
butcher's meat, in reserve for to-morrow's dinner, when
Mr. Sibran expected his wife and family to return from a
journey of pleasure to Capetown. But fatigue and no
choice, made us make the best of it, and we rested tole-
rably well. Meanwhile, our good-humoured host did all
in his power to amuse us, by relating the history of his
whole life, and requesting Brother Lemmerz to examine
one of his daughters in reading. Among his servants
was an Englishman from Hull.
9th. x\fter paying cheaply for our fare, we set out be-
fore sunrise, to pass the kloof in the cool of the morning.
The ascent from the east is rough, but not steep. The
wildness of the scenery can scarcely be surpassed.
Rocks of every shape, weather-beaten and worn, pointed
and jagged, start on all sides, to a great height, one
ridge towering above the other. They are the haunts
of hosts of baboons ; but some wagons having just come
up, these timid creatures had probably been frightened
by the cracking of whips, and fled into their lurking-pla-
ces ; for though the morning is the proper time for them
to make their appearance, not one was to be seen.
The prospect from the summit of the kloof, over the
fertile grounds of Hottentots-Holland, and towards Si-
mons' and Table-bay, is delightful.
We continued our route, till we arrived at Mr. Dirk
Cloete's charming place beyond Stellenbosch, where we
dined with the family, and rested about six hours. After
sunset we proceeded, hoping to arrive at some place of
shelter towards midnight, or even perhaps to reach Groe-
nekloof between one and two in the morning, before the
moon should set. The coolness of the evening refresh-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFItlCA. 97
ed both men and horses, and We travelled pleasantly
till midnight, when Solomon observed, that he had lost
the track, and feared we were taking a wrong direction*
Fires,, occasioned by the burning of the bushes on the
sides of the hills, illumined the horizon for some time.
The moon set, reddened by a kind of haze, which by
degrees spread all over the sky, and covered the lower
ranges of hills, leaving no marks, by which we might
discover our way in the dark. We now reached a place
where two roads met, one taking a westerly, and the
other a northerly direction. Solomon walked forward
on each, and returned with very evident marks of dismay
in his countenance. " Well, Solomon," said I, " which
way are we to ride ?" " Ah, Sir," replied he, " I am
lost. God must help us ! Mynheer must decide, and we
shall be right." The roar of the sea to westward was
now very distinct, and knowiriig, that towards that quar-
ter we could not err, I chose the western road, on which
we proceeded with our weary horses for some time, till
perceiving the light of a fire, apparently at a short dis-
tance before us, we made towards it, and after much
anxiety, the fire appearing and vanishing by turns, as
though it fled from us, we at length arrived at it. Here
we found two wagons, with two slaves sleeping on the
bare ground, to whom we were announced by the bark-
ing of their dogs. We dismounted, and turned the
horses loose, to seek a supper. Solomon, overjoyed at
finding a resting-place, exclaimed, " Well, I knew, that
the road Mynheer would choose, must be the right one,
though he has never been here before." The slaves in-
formed us, that we were at the Diep-Revier, and in the
right way to Groenekloof. Brother Lemmerz and I
kept awake, and fed the fire with bushes ; but Solomon,
with a saddle for his pillow, lay down on the ground,
and instantly fell asleep. It was now two o'clock, and
we spent the following two hours in agreeable conversa-
tion, chiefly on the mercies of the Lord shown to us dur-
ing our whole lives, but particularly on our late voyage
and journeys together ; (o our brethren, engaged in the
service of this favoured mission, and to the Hottentot
race, in sending the gospel to them, I believe His eye
13
98 JOURNAL OF A
was upon us in this wilderness, and He filled our hearts
with His love and peace.
Our situation presented a picture worthy of the pencil
of the most expert artist. Two men, sitting on stones
near a fire, the blaze of which illumined the surrounding
heath, showing, to the right, the wearj oxen belonging
to the wagons, lying in different attitudes, and at various
distances, and, to the left, our horses in similar positions;
the two covered wagons in the back-ground, and the
slaves and Solomon asleep under the bushes. After
four o'clock, some cocks in the wagons announced the
approaching day. Their crowing was answered by the
yells of jackals on the waste, and shortly after, by the
more frightful howl of a wolf, not very far off. Some
large birds flew croaking over our heads, and joined the
dismal concert, accompanied by other voices unknown
to us. Never did we more gladly hail the morning's
dawn. We v/aked our sleepy groom, saddled our horses,
and set off before the sun had risen. At the farm of a
friendly miller, near the Dassenberg, both we and our
hungry beasts found some refreshment, and after two
hours' rest, pursued our journey towards Groenekloof.
Our arrival, about noon, was unexpected.
This was the hottest day known for some years at
the Cape. About two in the afternoon, Fahrenheit's
thermometer stood at 107^^ in the shade. I found Bro-
ther Schmitt and his wife, and Brother Stein, well, and
willing to accompany me on the reconnoitring journey
into the interior, according to the plan projDosed. I
spent the remainder of the day in walking to different
parts of the village, and visiting many of the families.
Some of them are very poor, which the state of the cot-
tages on the west side of the valley sufliciently declares.
Those who, from the number of their children, or from
age or sickness,, are not able to help themselves, are
now and then assisted by a collection made, at stated
times, for the relief of the poor ; but wisdom and discre-
tion are required in the exercise of this charity, lest a
dependence upon gratuitous help should occasion ne-
glect, and prevent proper exertion on the part of the
healthy.
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 99
11th. The Sunday-services were held as uswaL Groe*
nekloof lying in the neighbourhood of large farms, Sun-
day visiters frequently occasion interruption ; the Holy
Communion, therefore, is here likewise celebrated in the
evening. To the missionaries, as well as to me, the
state of the communicant congregation here, was truly
encouraging, as a proof, that " their labour is not in vain
in the Lord.''
12th. Soon after four in the morning, I heard the
sweet sound of Hottentot voices, singing a hymn in the
hall before my chamber-door. It reminded me, that
this day was my birth-day, which had been mentioned
to them by some of the missionaries. I was struck and
affected by this mark of their regard, nor was their
modfe of expressing it confined to a morning-song. They
had dressed out my chair, at the common table, with
branches of oak and laurel, and Sister Schmitt's school
children, in order not to be behind in their kind offices,
having begged their mistress to mark on a large white
muslin handkerchief, some English words, expressive of
their goodwill towards me, they managed to embroider
them with a species of creeper called catVthorn, and
fastened the muslin in front of a table, covered with a
-white cloth, and decorated with festoons of catVthorn
and field-flowers. On the table stood five large bou-
quets, in glasses. The whole arrangement did credit to
their taste, for Sister Schmitt had left it entirely to their
own invention. This table I found placed in my room
on returning from my morning's walk. The words
were; "May success crown every action."
Recapitulating, within my own heart, the undeserved
mercies of God my Saviour, experienced during the year
past, I felt particularly grateful for the favour conferred
upon me, to behold with my own eyes, and hear with my
own ears, what He has wrought in this distant land for
the accomplishment of His thoughts of peace towards
the Gentile world. To serve such a cause, shall, by
His enabling grace, be my heart's delight, during the
remainder of my earthly pilgrimage.
The excessive heat of the last days, which we had
felt so oppressively on our journey hither, seemed to
JOO JOURNAL OP A
have brought into action all the electricity contained in
the atmosphere, and already, early in the forenoon, very
dense, black, towering clouds were seen covering the
mountains near Stellenbosch. It thundered almost in-
cessantly in that quarter for several hours before the
storm rose towards us. We were at dinner, when the
increasing darkness announced its approach, and it be-
gan to rain violently. I scarcely ever remember to have
seen lightning so vivid, and heard peals of thunder so
loud, with a crackling and roaring not to be described.
In a short time, every part of the premises was inunda-
ted. The streams flowed in all directions, and some
hundreds of a species of frogs, or toads, came clumsily
hopping from the wood, and passed in procession with
the stream across the yard to the pond in the valley.
For above an hour and a half, there was no intermissioR
in the fury of the tempest, after which the thunder roar-
ed incessantly round the horizon for three hours more.
In the evening, all was calm, the air cool and refreshing,
the moon shone bright, and after the family had retired
to rest, I walked by moonlight, for half an hour, on the
raised terrace before the house, engaged in recollec-
tions, grateful and humiliating, and closed my birth-day
with prayer and praise to God for all his goodness to
myself, my family, friends, and connexions. I should not
have noticed the celebration of this day, had it not serv-
ed to exhibit some traits in the character of the Hotten-
tots, whose sincerity, gratitude, and attachment to their
teachers and benefactors, and their manner of express-
ing these sentiments, made a deep impression on my mind,
and are more deserving of record, than the day itself.
13th. Having been employed all day in various cor-
respondence, Brother Schmitt and his wife agreed to ac-
company me to Capetown, in a wagon and twelve oxen,
leaving Brother Lemmerz and Solomon to follow us in a
few days.
We left Groenekloof at seven in the evening, with
fine raoonhght, but in about an hour a fog, and cold,
drizzling rain came on, which made us glad to take shel-
ter in a cottage, consisting of two roofs without subja-
cent walls, ift is built in two divisions standing in a
VISIT TO SOUTH APRICA% 101
right angle, and kept by a very civil couple, whose fur-
niture showed their love of cleanliness and order. The
weather cleared up before we arrived at Capetown.
14th. We were received by Mrs. Disandt and her
family with their wonted kindness, and spent the day in
visiting friends. I was introduced to Mr. Haoimes, who
accompanied the Rev. Mr. Campbell on his late tour to
visit the settlements of the Missionary Society in Lon-
don.
15th. I called jthis morning upon Mr. Melville, Survey-
or to Government, of whose friendly letter to me I made
mention on the 6th. His house is situated towards the
foot of the Duivelsberg, or Devil's hill. On communica-
ting to him my intention of making a journey into the
interior, he expressed an inclination to accompany me,
at least part of the way, which, though uncertain how it
might accord with our plans, I immediately felt disposed
to encourage, and before I left Capetown, my companions
most gladly concurring in the measure, we made an ar-
rangement, by which Mr. Melville and his family were
to follow us in a fortnight to Gnadenthal, and leaving
Mrs. Melville and the children there, give us the pleasure
of his company, as long as his other engagements would
permit. I then waited on Colonel Bird, and had a long
and satisfactory conversation with him) respecting the af-
fairs of Groenekloof and the above-mentioned journey.
He kindly furnished me with a list of all the loan places
belonging to Government, situated on the Chamtoos and
Klein Reviers. Mr. Alexander coming in, insisted on
my accompanying him to his seat at Kerstenbosch ; and
hoping that I might find there a favourable opportunity
of conversing with him, as First Colonial Secretary, on
some business, which I felt anxious to have completed, I
agreed and went with him. Passing Newlands, we met
Mr. Bentinck, whom Mr. Alexander prevailed upon to
return and dine with us. The presence of this very
agreeable gentleman prevented the conversation I had
proposed to myself
As wolves every now and then descend from the moun-
tains behind the house, and pass through the premises,
and the moon shone bright, I stood long at the window.
102 J'OURNAL OF A
in vain watching for them. My curiosity was punished
with a severe cold.
1 6th. In the morning I felt unwell, but walked before
breakfast with Mr. Alexander into his woods, up the
mountain. They consist of oak, chestnut, and witte-
boom. We were engaged in a discussion on affairs of
our establishments in this country. After breakfast, I
went with him and his lady to town, where I found an
invitation from the Governor to come and spend a few
days with him at Newlands. My good friend, Mr. Hancke,
accompanied me, but I was far from well, and could not
much enjoy the kindness and hospitality 1 experienced.
Some medicine, however, relieved me.
17th. Irose, considerably recovered, and walked be-
fore breakfast into the gardens, which are laid out in the
Dutch style, with long avenues, covered walks, and
square compartments surrounded with high trees, enclo-
sing orchards and kitchen-gardens. The principal walks
are made with a vermilion-coloured iron-stone, beat into
gravel, or brought in that state from the mountains.
Near the houses, are groves of oaks, planted in quincunx,
and a labyrinth of shady paths intersecting each other.
The house is large, with good rooms, and fitted up in the
English taste. Looking towards it from the garden, Ta-
ble-Mountain and the Devil's hill form a noble back-
ground, being also here much more picturesque in their
form than on the town-side. After breakfast. Captain
Cloete, the Governor's Aid-de-camp, walked with me all
over the grounds. His Excellency asked me to ride
with him, but feeling yet somewhat feverish, I was obli-
ged to decline it. When left alone, I took another gentle
stroll into the wild wood under the Table-Mountain, and
examined, or I should rather say, admired, some curious
trees and plants, knowing nothing of the names of either
genus or species. The witte-boom is used for fuel, being
unfit for building, furniture, or implements of husbandry.
Meanwhile signals, made at the signal-house on the
Devil's hill, and shortly after a despatch, announced the
arrival of a Dutch ship of war, with the Governor of
Batavia, Baron de Capelle, on board. The Governor
was therefore again obliged to postpone his intended
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 103
journey to GrootcrPost near Groenekloof, and my vi-
sit to Newlands was likewise shortened. I employed my
time in writing several letters to England.
18th. His Excellency having suffered me to claim his
attention to some business this morning, I had the satis-
faction of much private conversation with him, both be-
fore and during breakfast, and experienced every mark
of good-will in his approbation of the subjects I laid be-
fore him, both relating to the building of a new church
at Groenekloof, the possession of land belonging to our
settlements, the objects of my intended expedition, and
the gift of such unoccupied land, as I might find suitable
for a third settlement. He promised, that letters should
be directed to the landdrosts of Zwellendam, George,
and Uitenhagen, to afford me every facility in my search,
which, in the sequel, proved of the most essential service
to me. On this occasion, I became better than ever ac-
quainted with his Excellency's favourable disposition to-
wards the Missions of our Church, as thev contribute to
further the propagation of Christianity, and to introduce
industry and civilization among a nation, hitherto con-
sidered as the most abject and degraded part of the hu-
man race, but whose improvement and welfare he seem-
ed eager to promote; and I could ever after feel full
confidence in proposing to him any plan, having these
benefits for its object.
As he went to town to meet the Dutch Governor, he
proposed to send word, whether he should stay or re-
turn, and kindly detained me. My time was well spent
in writing and completing my journal and memorandums,
till his return.
19th. The Governor, attended by his son and two
dragoons, went to town. Captain Cloete with myself
followed in his coach. Brother Lemmerz having arriv-
ed in town from Groenekloof, we resolved to set out on
our return to Gnadenthal in the afternoon. It turned
out a windy evening. After about two hours' ride
through the sands, or Cape Downs, we hoped to find
shelter with a farmer; but as he had no stable for our
horses, we proceeded, and after two hours more, reach-
ed a small farm, near the Erste Revier, where, after
10 i JrOUIlNAL OF A
battering for some time at doors and windows, we found
no entrance. Total silence announced the family fled.
We forded the river, and called at another larger farm,
where we were assailed by ten or twelve fierce dogs,
and heard the woman of the house bid her slave tell us,
that, her husband being absent at Stellenbosch, she could
not give us quarters, in which, however, she was contra--
dieted by her more honest servant. It was midnight,
and our horses as well as ourselves were not much dis-
posed to proceed. But there was no remedy. Provi-
dentially the night was fair, and the moon shone bright.
At one, we reached a good-looking house, from which
we were again sent to get accommodations at a Veldcor-
net's. We crept on, and on our arrival, a slave-girl
openiog the door, told us, that her master and mistress
were gone out, and had left her alone in the house;
then banged the door in our faces. What could we do,
but keep on our way. At two, we reached Mr. Mor-
kel's farm at HottentotVHolland. Here a slave took
pity on us and our beasts, provided the latter and our
groom with good quarters and food, and showed us into
an empty room, w^ith a plate of peaches on the table. In
an adjoining chamber stood two empty bedsteads, on
one of which, with my portmanteau for my pillow, I en-
joyed some refreshing sleep for about three hours. My
companion slept in a chair.
20th. On rising, the family received us kindly, lament*
ed their not having been aware of our arrival, and treat-
ed us with a good breakfast. About seven o'clock, we
reached Hottentot-Holland's Kloof, where Mr. Schultz,
late of Gnadenthal, overtook and kept us company all
day. We made halt for a few hours at Veldcornet
Schwartz's house, and passing to the left of the great
Haue Hoek, over a wretched-looking wilderness, de-
scended to the Botte Revier. The many fires kindled
on the mountains, by the burning of bushes, gave the
country the appearance of a manufacturing district in
England, and our imagination conjured up furnaces,
coke-burnings, and stacks of iron-works, in the midst of
this uninhabitable waste. By Mr. Schultz's good gui-
dance, we forded the river safely, and found our way
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 105
along the valley to Mr. Leroux's farm, where we were
well received and entertained by him and his numerous
family.
21st. We set out before sunrise, and hastened towards
Gnadenthal. Mr. Schultz accompanied us across the
hills, as far as the vale of the Sonderend, when he turn-
ed to the right. In the vale are some delightful pros-
pects, and the mountains about the Yagersbosch are sin-
gularly grand and picturesque. We entered Gnaden-
thal from the west, by Robyntjes Kraal, a farm within
the boundary of the Brethren's land, and, descending
from the hill, were charmed with the view of the village,
the great mountain rising majestically beyond it. When
the Hottentots perceived us, they came out of their cot-
tages and gardens to the road-side to bid us welcome,
and we soon found ourselves again in the midst of our
friends and Brethren.
To my great satisfaction, one of the first objects that
presented itself in riding into the missionaries' premises,
was the foundation of the new house, laid in the best
manner, and a number of Hottentot workmen diligently
employed.
We now began seriously to make preparations for the
reconnoitring journey, and Brother Bonatz had, during
our absence, engaged oxen and drivers. In the after-
noon I walked out, determined not to yield to drowsiness,
and lose any part of the short time I am favoured to re^
main at Gnadenthal. After all I have seen of situations
in this country, I have found none to be compared to
Gnadenthal for snugness, cleanliness and comfort : and
I often felt disposed to wish that I were young, and my
lot cast in this place, that, with full vigour of mind and
body, I might assist in this work.
22d. Brother Thomsen accompanied me to the nur-
sery of young trees of various kinds, chiefly kierbooms,
oaks, and firs, situated beyond the burial-ground. They
seem at present to be in a thriving state, and if any de-
pendence could be placed upon the growth of wood in
this soil, provision is here made for timber and fuel for
future generations. Brother Leitner then showed me
the foundation of a school-room, which I had previously
14
106 JOURNAL OF A
directed to be added to the new house, destined for the
use of his wife, who, like her countrywoman, Sister
Schmitt of Groenekloof, has instructed a number of Hot-
tentot girls in working satin-stitch, which they do with
great neatness. Thunder-storms and heavy rains pre-
vented our meeting at the church this evening, but
we held a conference, relating to various outward con-
cerns of the settlement, concluding with the usual even-
ing worship. The weather grew very boisterous to-
wards night, with Hghtning, thunder, rain, and hail.
23d. I was busily engaged all day, and among other
employments, undertook to assist Brother Bonatz in
making grave-stones for two of his children, who died
on one day, of the hooping cough. How distressing this
bereavement proved to the parents, no pen can describe,
but they sought and found comfort in resignation to the
will of God. Were it but for these effects of true reli-
gion, how eagerly ought men to seek to become possess-
ed of it. A heart truly devoted to, and relying upon, a
gracious heavenly Father, can never become a prey to
despair.
Having been charged fifty-eight rix-dollars for a
grave-stone from the Cape, Brother Bonatz, anxious to
save that expense to the Mission, procured two squares
of good sand-stone, and was endeavouring to do the work
himself. As I had, when a boy, sometimes watched a
mason near our school, cutting in stone, I was able to
assist, and in due time, though but dilettanti in the art,
we produced well-executed inscriptions, and placed the
stones on the graves, to the great admiration of the Hot-
tentots, with whom ability to work with the hands is far
more highly esteemed, than any learning and labour of
the mind. In the evening, two pair were betrothed.
When a Hottentot wishes to marry, he mentions his in-
tention to the missionaries, with the name of the person
he has chosen. A time being fixed for the purpose, they
promise each other marriage, in presence of all the mis-
sionaries, and receive suitable exhortations respecting
their conduct, the precepts given in the word of God
concerning the married state, being explained to them.
They are then recommended publicly to the prayers of
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 107
the congregation, and, shortly after, married at the
church, in a public meeting.
To-day a child was drowned in the Bavians-Revier.
Means were used for its recovery, but in vain.
24th. After breakfast, I visited some Hottentots' gar-
dens, which were kept in good order, and also walked
with Brother Leitner, to see the Hottentots making un-
burnt bricks. The clay of this country hardens to such
a degree, that a brick made of it, and well dried in the
sun, is more difficult to break, than many a stone. In the
afternoon was the funeral of the poor drowned child.
Brother Leitner delivered a very suitable discourse to
the children, on the uncertainty of Hfe,
When it had grown too dark to write, I sat down to
play something on the piano-forte. Hearing a rustling
behind me, I perceived, that three or four Hottentot girls
had quietly entered the room, to listen to the music. I
told them, that 1 would play for Mem, but they should sing
forme, as I wished to ascertain, whether, by the help of
an instrument, they would keep true to the tune, without
sinking their voices. They then gave out, and sung
some verses, in different tunes ; I always found them
true to the pitch of the instrument, though every now
and then I let them sing some lines by themselves, then
falling in with the piano-forte, found they had not in the
smallest degree lowered their voices. The number of
singers gradually increased to thirty. I was pleased with
this new proof of the naturally musical qualities of this
nation, and was convinced, that the sinking of the voices
at church, is only owing to bad precentors, but would bq
prevented by an organ.
After our evening-worship, the spirit of singing seemed
to come upon us, and we w ere above an hour engaged in
playing and singing verses to a variety of beautiful Ger-
man hymn-tunes, some of which were new tome.
To-day, a tree-serpent haunting a tree near the garden
gate, was announced by the fiscal-bird. The bird did
not cease calling and screaming, till the venomous rep-
tile was discovered and killed. Two serpents of the
same kind were shot in the garden.
23th. About two hundred persons attended the funeral
108 JOURNAL OF A
of a worthy member of the congregation, who departed
this hfe, having given full evidence of her faith in Jesus,
and her hope of a blessed immortality*
In the afternoon, a deputation of Hottentots came to
request a conversation with us, about the appointment of
a captain of the Hesqua tribe, intimating, that there was
too much work here for only one captain of the Koop-
man's tribe. After proposing the subject. Brother Bo-
natz represented to them, that the captain, regularly ap-
pointed by Government, with two resident captains, and
a corporal to assist him, could surely manage the con-
cerns of this village ; but that it appeared to him, as if,
according to the fashion of the heathen, they wanted now
to distinguish their particular clans^ by having a captain
for each, which had, in their heathen state, produced
nothing but quarrels. Those who now addressed us,
were all of the Hesqua tribe. Being appealed, and de-
sired to give my opinion of this extraordinary business, I
did it to the following effect :
" When I arrived among you, I expected to find here
a family of God, who considered it their highest privilege
to live together in true brotherly love and harmony, as
One in Jesus, delivered and redeemed from the traditions
received by the vain conversation of your forefathers,
who were heathen, and knew not God and His word, but
were left to themselves.
" Your divisions into separate clans, attached to par-
ticular chiefs and captains, has produced, and would again
produce envy, jealousy, quarrels, and feuds, very unbe-
coming Christian people. Whenever the Hottentots
of Gnadenthal are spoken of by the members of Govern-
ment, I rejoice to hear them praised for the quietude and
good order prevailing among them, which make the usual
precautions taken to preserve good order, by multiplying
magistrates and other officers, unnecessary in this place.
You say yourselves, that the captain's business is not in
the village, but out of it, in securing deserters, assisting in
the regulation of taxes, &c. and in other general affairs of
the country. For that, he has a salary and leisure, and
with the before-mentioned assistants, may easily accom-
plish his task. Do you wish to be like the heathen,
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 109
who glory in some favourite chief? Then let me tell
you, from the history of the Jews, once the only chosen
people of God, how it went with them when, from the
same motive, they demanded a king.'' I then told them
the story, and Father Marsveld added, *^ Yes, and you
will remember, that when Samuel complained of their
conduct to the Lord," His answer was, " they have not
rejected Thee^ but Jlf<?," I proceeded : " Consider there-
fore, well, what you are doing, and whether pride and
vanity are not at the bottom of this pretence of caring
for the better regulation of the place. If so, pray God
to deliver you from so baneful an influence. Remember
also, that this land would not be your dwelling-place, as
in former times, but for your teachers. It is given to them
for your use, and under their superintendancy and control,
for they may dismiss any one, who transgresses the rules
of a Christian society. But the Brethren and your
teachers are the well-wishers of all Hottentots without
exception. Their aim is, to collect here a living congre-
gation of true believers, who shall walk worthy of a
heavenly vocation, and rejoice in Him, who is the only-
Captain of our Salvation, under whose banner we are
all collected as one body, to whatever tribe or nation we
belong. The Brethren never thought, nor ever can ad-
mit of clans ; and the English Government, which has
spared you in many ways, on account of your orderly
and Christian conduct hitherto, will take for granted,
that your demanding more captains proves your degene-
racy, and requires other measures to be adopted. The
English will hear your proposals with great disapproba-
tion and surprise. Recollect yourselves, therefore, and
be satisfied with present arrangements." Several Hot-
tentots then spoke in explanation, but Father Marsveld
proved to them, that the Koopman family were duly
entitled to the captaincy of this place, and not the
Hesqua. They seemed to receive the exhortations and
even severe reproofs, given by Brother Bonatz, with
patience and kindness, and several thanked us after-
wards for the pains we had taken to make the matter
^"lear to them, promising: to desist from their silly pro-
110 JOURNAL OF A
jects, to which they had been urged by a designing and
crafty Hottentot in the village.
2(ith. Brother Bonatz proposed to show me the west-
ern boundary of the land belonging to the settlement.
We set out in a bullock wagon, passed through
Robyntjes Kraal, and saw a piece of land, lately ex-
changed and given to us by Government; after which,
mounting a poney, I rode with Brother Leitner up the
hill towards the Ja^ersbosch, to see the boundary-
stones, or baakens. One of them stands in a romantic
little glen, in which, as well as in a gully on the op-
posite mountain, there were some beautiful water-falls.
From hence the boundary-line passes across the vale
of the Sonderend, to the heathy and rocky hills towards
the south, then takes an eastern direction along their
summits, for about two English miles. The Hottentot
captain Koopman and his corporal were with us in
order to become acquainted with the boundary. After
the evening-service in the church, I generally spent an
hour with one or other of the missionaries in their own
rooms, in pleasant and useful conversation. On these
occasions, Father Marsveld always gave some interest-
ing accounts of the origin of this settlement, when he
and his two fellow labourers, Schwinn and Kuehnel, suf-
fered many privations, and likewise much persecution,
but most cheerfully and harmoniously went to work from
day to day, each taking some particular part of the
labour, as settled among themselves in friendly conver-
sation, by which, in a short time, their cottage got built
and furnished, their garden dug and planted, fences and
ditches made, and that with very little assistance from
the Hottentots. But the " joy of the Lord was their
strength,'' and they '^ served Him with gladness.''
27th, I spent very busily at my desk.
28th. In the afternoon Sister Schwinn proposed
showing us a curious water-fall in the western division
of Bavians-Kloof, and we made a party to follow her.
We scrambled up a very steep and rough road, to gain
the object of our search, fighting our way through bushes
and bogs, till one after the other gave it up; and when
our leader arrived at the spot, she had only one man
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. Ill
and one woman of the party, to witness her disappoint-
ment, in hardly finding a few drops trickling down the
rock. However, the scramble afforded much amusement,
and we found some refreshment provided among the
bushes on the bank of the Bavians-Revier, where it pass-
es under the hanging rock. I made two sketches of the
singular rocks, in both divisions of the glen.
29th. Mr. Bartlett, a missionary from the Missionary
Society in London, arrived here, wishing to engage
Hottentot drivers and leaders to accompany him into the
Namaqua country ; but though encouraged by us, and
even by an address of Father Marsveld to our people, in
which he represented, that in assisting this missionary to
proceed to his station among their countrymen, in the
north-west part of the colony, they would be serving the
cause of God, they very civilly declined it, on account
of their engagements with the farmers, and the very long
absence from their families, which the journey would re-
quire. We therefore recommended to Mr. Bartlett, to
endeavour to procure assistance from Groenekloof, in
which he succeeded.
March 1st. Brother Schmitt and his wife, and Brother
Stein, arrived here from Groenekloof. I walked with
Mr. Bartlett through the settlement, and visited some of
the gardens. He was much pleased with that of Benja-
min Okkers. We found the Caffre, Wilhelmina, sitting
in her hut, reading a Dutch translation of the exposition
of Christian doctrine. After breakfast, I was called out,
to see a baboon on the hill to the right of the kloof.
This was the first of these creatures I had seen here in a
wild state, and a very large animal. He had approach-
ed near the gardens, with a view to steal peaches ; but
perceiving so many people standing to observe him,
walked backwards and forwards, apparently not intimi-
dated, now and then sitting down on a stone or large
ant-hill, and surveying us. Solomon fired at him, when
he retreated a few paces, but returned, and amused us
for some time longer. 1 was glad that a second attempt
to kill him did not succeed, but, on the day after, hunj:^er
bringing him into the great garden, he was hunted down
by dogs, and shot.
112 JOURNAL OP A
3d. Brother Bonatz preached his farewell sermon,
intending to set out for Groenekloof to-morrow in the
same wagon that had brought Brother Schmitt. The
congregation was much affected, and yet more in the af-
ternoon, when Father Marsveld addressed them on the
services rendered to this Mission by Brother Bonatz,
and commended him and his family in prayer to the
grace and protection of our Saviour. Many were the
tears shed by old and young. At the close of the ser-
vice, they thanked Brother Bonatz and his wife aloud
for their faithful labours in this place, and afterwards
came in parties to take leave. In the afternoon, we met
in conference, when several subjects were discussed re-
lating both to Brother Bonatz's return to Groenekloof,
and our journey into the interior. In the evening, seve-
ral of us went as far as the river Sonderend, to meet
Mr. and Mrs. Melville and their children. We found
them near the ford, and accompanied them to the settle-
ment, where they met with a most cordial reception from
the whole family.
4th. This morning, I was witness to that submissive
attention to the directions of the missionaries, which dis^
tinguishes the Christian Hottentots, and always pleased
me much. Yesterday, as we were accompanying Mr.
Melville through the village, we heard in one oi the cot-
tages near the road, a great cry of some child, seeming-
ly under the lashes of an unmerciful disciplinarian. Bro-
ther Schmitt went to see what was the matter, and to put
a stop to any violence. When he entered the cottage,
he found a mother lashing her daughter with a thong.
She seemed in a great passion, hardly knowing what she
did. He stopt her, and ordered her to come in the morn-
ing, and show cause, why she had beaten the child.
This morning, she came into my room, bringing her
daughter with her, and made me understand, that she
was the person summoned. I called Brother Schmitt,
and by her very modest and intelligible account of the
girl's behaviour, it was clear, that the latter well de-
served the chastisement. We spoke, however, to the
mother about the passionate manner in which she ad-
ministered her correction. That she acknowledged, but
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA^ 113
said, that it was occasioned by the girPs biting and kick-
ing, and seeking to hurt her* The girl confessed all the
mother had said to be true. Brother Schmitt then, in a
fatherly manner, gave her due admonitions, and exhort-
ed her to ask her mother's pardon in our presence, and
to thank her for having punished her for her wicked
conduct. This she immediately did, with many tears*
The child being dismissed, the missionary added some
words of advice to the mother respecting the treatment
of her children, which she very humbly received, and of
her own accord, begged his pardon for not having im«
mediately on his entering her cottage, left off beating
the child, and in her hurry, asking, who he was^ as if
she meant to treat him with disrespect, which had never
been her intention. She is known as a woman of very
good character and understanding.
It was affecting to see, with what grief the Hottentots
parted with Brother Bonatz, his wife, and children, and
to hear their warm expressions of gratitude for their la-
bours of love in this congregation. After dinner, the
wagon being ready, and the family seated, about two
hundred Hottentots, old and young, assembled under the
grove, sung a farewell hymn, and once more expressed
their best wishes for them, that the Lord would bless
and reward them. Above a hundred accompanied the
wagon beyond the river Sonderend.
When they were gone, we began to prepare for our
journey in good earnest, and I finished my many letters^
written to Europe and the Cape, with which I was like-
wise busily engaged on the 5th, during the whole of the
forenoon, though continually interrupted by parties of
Hottentots, who came to take leave, and to wish me suc-
cess. They did it with such simplicity and sincerity,
that, busy as I was, I could not but particularly attend
to every one of them. Two women came, each carry-=
ing a roll of matting, and begged that I would use them
on the journey, for their sakes, as they had made them
on purpose for me. I thanked them for this proof of
their affection, informed them, that we were well pro-
vided with this useful article, but that I would accept of
their kind present^ and save it, to take with rne on ray
1 5
114 JOURNAL OF A
return to England, where I would keep it and show it to
my Brethren, as a token of their gratitude for having
sent them teachers.
The poor people were almost in ecstacy at the
thought that the work of their hands should go across
the great waters to their teachers' land ; nor did I suffer
such kindness to go unrewarded.
CHAPTER VI.
Departure from GnadenthaL Account of the company. Man-
ner of travelling in South Africa. Arrive at Mr. Von
Helsland^s farm on Bock Revier. Rencontre with an en-
raged boor. Instance of injustice. Hot Outspann. Ar-
rival at Zwellendam. The landdrosfs hospitality. Re-
lays. Visit to Zuurbrack. Groot- Vader'^s-Bosch. Duy-
venhoeck'^s Revier. Mr. Piet du Preez.
March 5th. Every previous arrangement having been
made, as stated in the foregoing chapter, it was our in-
tention to set off at twelve o'clock, with a view, before
sunset, to reach the house of Mr. Von Helsland, on Bock
Revier, a gentleman well known to Mr. Melville, where
we might find a hospitable reception and good quarters
for the first night. But by continual interruption, occasion-
ed by parties of Hottentots, who came to take leave, and
to express their good wishes and prayers, that success
might attend us on our way, our departure was de-
layed till two o'clock. Meanwhile, a large company
had assembled under the grove, who joined in singing
hymns, while we entered our wagons. Our company
consisted of the following persons:
C. I. Latrobe, John Melville, John Henry Schmitt and
his wife, and John Jurgen Stein: with the Hottentots,
Marcus Moses, Chrisjtian Hector, Jeremias Waly, Le-
brecht Aris, Johannes Paerl, and his father, Leonhard
Paerl. The latter had lately been re-admitted, having
returned to Gnadenthal after long absence. Like many
other Hottentots, he had ever been extremely fond of ro-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 115
ving, and could not well endure to remain long in one
place. Several years ago, hearing on his tramps some
account of Gnadenthal, and that there the Hottentots
were instructed in the word of God, curiosity led him to
visit that settlement. He heard the gospel with atten-
tion, and it pleased God to awaken his heart and show
him the necessity of conversion. At his request, he ob-
tained leave to live there, and as he conducted himself
soberly, there was no intention on the part of the Mis-
sionaries to send him away ; but he could not long bear
to be confined, in attending to a field and garden. After
many shorter wanderings, he absented himself for three
whole years, and, during that time, had traversed the
whole colony from east to west, visiting all places of
which he obtained any information ; till at length. Weary
of a vagabond life, he returned to Gnadenthal, and hav-
ing anew obtained permission to reside, began seriously
to make the concerns of his immortal soul his chief ob-
ject.
On account of his general knowledge of every part of
the colony, and especially of the district of Uitenhagen,
and the Chamtoos Revier, the Brethren recommended
him to me as a guide, though his age rendered him unfit
to bear any great hardships. Johannes, his son, had been
lately baptized, and possessed not only cleverness in the
management of our teams, but a wilHng and cheerful
spirit. The same may be said of Marcus Moses, of
whose good sense and steady conduct w^e had many sa-
tisfactory proofs. All of them, indeed, deserve commen-
dation, as well for their readiness to enter into our views,
and to obey all our directions without murmuring, as for
their uniformly good behaviour, by which they honoured
the cause of the gospel, being every where known and
observed, as samples of Christian Hottentots.
The commission 1 had received, to make search after a
spot of unoccupied land, for a third missionary settle-
ment of the United Brethren, made it adviseable for me
to take with me a man, who understood well the nature
of the soil, and, from his knowledge of the habits of the
Hottentots, and their mode of procuring subsistence,
could judge better than I was able to do of tlie fitness of
H^ JOURNAL OF A
any place we might discover. Such a man was my faith-
ful companion, Brother Schmitt.
Mr. Melville, having brought his own travelling-wagon
from Capetown, and the Gnadenthal wagon, originally
destined for the journey, as before mentioned, proving
too small and inconvenient, we put the baggage info the
latter, and gave charge of it to Brother Stein, who wil-
lingly accepted of that honourable post, and took his seat
in the baggage-wagon. The rest of us occupied the seats
in the lighter vehicle.
It may not be improper, in this place, to give a more
detailed account of the mode of travelling in South Afri-
ca, especially as some of my readers may be surprised to
hear, that so many arrangc^ments were required, to un-
dertake the proposed reconnoitring journey. In Eng-
land, indeed, or even on the continent of Europe, most
of them would have been superfluous, as travellers find
every where inns, provisions, and other necessaries. But
it is far otherwise in this country. Here are no inns, and
in those farm-houses, in which a traveller may sometimes,
but not always, find quarters for the night, provisions are
often scarce, and stores not to be purchased. In some,
not even a room can be had for the party to sleep in,
much less beds and other conveniences. Every thing ne-
cessary for the expedition must therefore be provided,
calculating upon the time required for it. Thus, if more
be in company, and the journey long, a baggage-wagon
is essentially wanted. There are no post-houses, where
horses may be hired. Travellers must therefore have
their own horses, or oxen. The latter are by far the
most useful animals for travelling in this country, for no
expense attends the feeding of them, as they pick their
own provender in the wilderness, where they either find
grass, or eat the tender sprout of the rhinoceros, and
other bushes, generally refusing hay or corn, if even set
before them : whereas, if horses or mules are employed,
a sufficient stock of the latter must be provided.
Many travellers sleep in their wagons, but we found
it more comfortable to put up a tent. Cooking utensils
are likewise necessary, as all victuals must be dressed
jn the fields, unless it happens that a dinner or supper
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 117
may be had at a farm-house, where the people are able
and willing to entertain and lodge strangers. The
roads being in many places excessively bad, stony,
and steep, more cattle are wanted than on roads re-
gularly made and kept in repair. There are even
places, where more than twenty oxen must be em-
ployed to drag the wagons up the precipitous ascent,
and where horses would scarcely be of use. From this
account it is plain, that arrangements, very different
from what are required in Europe, are necessary for
a journey in South Africa.
A team or set of oxen or horses put to a wagon,
is called by the Dutch a Spann^ and those places in
the wilderness, where halt is made and the oxen un-
yoked, an Outspann-place. As this is a convenient word
for the purpose, I am glad to be authorized by the
journals of other EngUsh travellers, to retain it. The
oxen are left, from two to four hours, to seek their food
and get rest, while the travelling party cook their vic-
tuals and take their meals.
Since farms have multiplied, the situation and bounda-
ries of outspann-places have been appointed by Govern-
ment, generally near some river or spring, as the want
of water injures the oxen more than the want of proven-
der. A loaded wagon requires from twelve to sixteen
oxen, and a light travelling wagon, from eight to twelve.
Besides the Hottentot driver, who, sitting on the box,
directs the whole spann, without reins, merely by means
of his long whip, there is always a man, or sometimes
only a little boy, employed as a leader. (See p. 38.) The
heathen Hottentots have no mercy upon their draught
oxen, and the skin of most of them is cut in all directions
by their whips, so as to present to the eye the resem-
blance of net-work. They drive and ride their horses
and mules, with equal want of feeling, and it is well for
them that the Cape horses are a very hardy race. Nor
is it without much teaching, even after they have become
Christians, that they are convinced of the impropriety
of such usage of dumb animals, and learn that Christian
lesson " Be ye merciful, as your heavc/nly Father also
is merciful," Luke vi. 36. '^ A righteous man regardeth
118 :tournal of a
the life of his beast, but the tender mercies of the wicked
are cruel," Prov.xii. 10. We took three saddle-horses
with us, to be used, as occasion might require, in ex-
amining the country.
Thus equipped, we proceeded with tolerable speed.
About one hundred and fifty Hottentots, who accompanied
us out of Gnadenthal across the hills, left us in parties,
repeating their farewell benedictions. Mrs. Melville and
her family went with us as far as Mr. Von Helsland's
farm, on Bock Revier, which we had hoped to reach in
six hours, but we were full ten hours on the road. The
moon had set before we arrived, but, late as it v^^as, we
found the family prepared to receive us in the most hos-
pitable manner.
6th. About sunrise, the whole company assembled,
with our worthy host, under the shade of some oaks,
before the door. The morning-haze proclaimed a hot
day, and we determined to stay here till towards
evening, when generally a cool breeze springs up, and
the moon favoured our proceeding during the nignt.
Mr. Von Helsland's estate is well cultivated, and has
abundance of wood and water. Timber is found in the
kloofs or narrow glens, intersecting the high range of
mountains, which here have a very rugged and romantic
appearance.
While we were at dinner, the infant daughter of a
relation of the family, who had been long ailing, unex-
pectedly died in the nurse's arms. This event threw
the ladies into great agitation, nor did Mr. Von Hels-
land's kind and consoling exhortations to resignation
seem to have much effect. They all retired to their own
rooms, and we were very sorry not to be able to ex-
press our gratitude, both for the kindness and hospitality
with which we had been entertained, and for a consider-
able present of grapes, apples, dried peas and beans,
fowls, tongues, and other provisions, which, by Mr. Von
Helsland's orders, had been conveyed into the wagons
for our use.
Mr. Von Helsland is a native of Flanders. Having
spent the early part of his life at college, and travelled
into various parts of Europe, he made several voyages
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 119
to the East Indies and the Cape, as Captain of a Danish
East-India-man, and, after a life of great activity and
usefulness, settled in this country. He is a man of the
most polished manners, speaks English fluently, and can
converse in German, Danish, and Latin, with ease. The
family spend the summer on his farm, but in winter re-
side at Capetown.
About five o'clock in the afternoon, we took ^eave of
our kind host, and leaving Mrs. Melville and her chil-
dren to spend some time with the family, previous to
her taking up her abode at Gnadenthal, during Mr.
Melville's absence, we left Bock Revier, forded the
river Sonderend, and travelled, with a bright moon
to light us on a good road, till ten at night, when,
for the first time, we pitched our tent on the waste,
cooked our supper, and having commended ourselves to
the protection of God, slept well on our mattresses, till
half past five in the morning.
7 th. We had not proceeded far, before we were stop-
ped by a boor on horseback. He came on full speed,
jumped off his horse close to our wagon, shook hands
with each of the party, and observed, that we had a
Hottentot with us, Lebrecht Aris, who was bound by a
regular contract made with him, to come and work at
his farm, immediately after New-year, but had not made
his appearance. Brother Schmitt ordered Lebrecht to
come forward. The boor no sooner saw him, than his
whole countenance changed from affected friendliness,
to that of an infuriated demon. He began to rave at the
poor Hottentot, without permitting him to utter a word
in his own defence. Never in my life have I heard
Dutch spoken with such fluency. As his rage increased
with every sentence, the guttural sounds of that elegant
language seemed to proceed deeper and deeper from
the bottom of his throat. At length, almost breathless
with exertion, he turned to Brother Schmitt, and de-
manded whether he would give up the man. On beino-
answered in the negative, he mounted his horse, and gal^
lopped off to the Veldcornet's house, which lay in sight
and near the road. We followed quietly, and Brother
Schmitt going up to the door with Lebrecht, the Veld-
120 JOURNAL OF A
cornet, on examination, being doubtful as to the validity
of the contract, thought proper to suffer the Hottentot to
accompany us, but promised the boor, that after our re-
turn, he might claim his services. Poor Lebrecht stood
dumbfounded, nor would the boor suffer him to speak.
It was to us a very unpleasant adventure, not only be-
cause it occasioned delay, but as the character of our
Hottentots was implicated.
This instance, however, was one among many, which
shows the injustice sometimes done to these poor people,
if left without protection to the mercy of the boors ; and
here it may be proper to anticipate, by giving an expla-
nation of the business, as it appeared, on examination,
before the landdrost of Zwellendam, on our return.
Lebrecht Aris owed twelve dollars to a farmer, in
the neighbourhood of Gnadenthal, and not having tke
means to pay, engaged with the boor above mentioned
to work six months on his farm, at two dollars per month
and his cost, on condition that the boor should imme-
diately discharge his debt. He had worked two months,
when his creditor again called on him, and threatened
him with imprisonment, unless he immediately paid the
twelve dollars. In his distress, he applied to a mission-
ary, who lent him the money, for the payment of which
he received a regular receipt from his creditor. This
receipt the poor man had in his pocket, but being nearly
frightened out of his senses, by the violence of the boor's
behaviour, he forgot to produce it at the Veldcornet's.
After discovering the boor's neglect to fulfil his engage-
ment to pay his creditor, he now not only refused to
work any longer with so faithless an employer, but had
a demand upon him for four dollars, being two months'
pay. The boor, however, most unjustly insisted on his
serving him the remaining four months, under pretence
of a contract. But no written agreement having been
made and signed, in presence of a Veldcornet, which is
required to bind a Hottentot to his employer, for any
stated time, the Veldcornet discharged him for the pre-
sent, without further explanation, Lebrecht, after re-
covering liis spirits, stated his case satisfactorily to us,
and on our return, I submitted it to the landdrost of
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 121
Zwellendam, who sent a proper reproof to the unjust
boor.
Near this place, we first met with the great thorn-
bush, a mimosa, with which many parts of the country
are nearly covered. It has thorns from four to six inches
long. They are placed two and two, in an obtuse
angle, of about ninety degrees ; out of the inner centre
of which proceeds, from a bud, a number of small pinnat-
ed leaves, resembling the acacia. The flower is yellow,
and consists of a great number of small leaves placed in
a globular form. The shape of the tree is very ele--
gant.
After a hot ride, we pitched our tent upon a wast^
called Storm's Valley, near the banks of the Sonderend,
without a tree to screen us by its shade from the burning
rays of the sun. Before us appeared some of the lower
class of hills, through which a gap admits the river Son-
derend to unite with the Breede Revier. The heat was
almost insupportable, and the inside of the tent like an
oven. All the butter melted, and on attempting to finish
some sketches, the colour dried instantly on the paper*>
without permitting any washing. I found at length the
inside of the wagon the most comfortable retreat, where
I continued writing my diary, though the ink dried so
fast within my pen, that I could hardly proceed. About
six in the evening, we left this place, which, by way of
distinction, we called the Hot Out-spann, and after tra-
velling for some time along the low hills above mention-
ed, crossed the Breede Revier by moonlight. Its banks
are covered with wood and bushes, and its bed is full of
large, rough stones. We encamped on the eastern bank
for the remainder of the night.
8th. After a ride of about four hours, we crossed the
Leuwe Revier, near a pleasant farm. Its banks are
very steep, and in some places formed of perpendicular
rocks, resembling mud-walls in colour. Having forded
another smaller stream of brackish water, we halted on
a waste, with a woody dell behind, and the magnificent
range of the Zwellendam mountains before us^ towards
which, after two hours' rest, we directed our course,
Thf^ morning had b^en uncommonly clear, and we were
J 22 rOURNAL OF A
enjoying the view, when suddenly clouds began to cover
their tops. In a short time, we were enveloped in a
dense fog, followed by heavy rain, which did not cease
till we reached Zwellendam, about two P. M.
I immediately waited on the landdrost, Mr. Von Buis-
sini, and presented the letter, written by Colonel Bird in
the name of the Governor, and which, as a proof of the
kind attention of his Excellency to promote every at-
tempt to spread civilization among the Hottentots under
his government, by means of Christian instruction, I beg
leave to insert, especially as it proved the source of all
that ease and comfort, which we enjoyed during a jour-
ney of such length, attended frequently with great diffi-
culties and dangers. The same letter was addressed to
the landdrosts of the districts of Zwellendam, George,
and Uitenhagen.
Sir,
I am directed by his Excellency, the Governor, to
beg your attention to the bearer, the Rev. Mr. Latrobe.
Mr. Latrobe's object in visiting your drosty, is to
ascertain whether there is any unoccupied Government-
land in your district, v*^hich would be suitable for esta-
blishing an institution of Hottentots under the superin-
tendency of the Moravian Brethren. It is his Excel-
lency's desh^e, therefore, that you may be pleased to
afford to this gentleman the fullest information in your
power on the subject, and his Excellency will esteem
any civility you may show Mr. Latrobe, as a favour
done to himself.
I have the honour to be,
Sir,
Your most obedient servant,
C. BIRD,
Colonial OJfin ,
Fehruarij Vo, 181b.
The landdrost, after perusing this letter, expressed his
great readiness to lend every assistance in promoting an
object, to which he had always shown the most favour-
able disposition, and was glad to be thus authorized to
act consistently with his own inclinations, in aiFordmg
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 123
every facility to our undertaking. He immediately pro-
posed to give me a letter to the Veldcornets and others in
his district, to be valid as far as George, requiring them
to furnish us with two spanns of oxen at every station,
and with as many drivers, leaders, and guides, as we
might want.
Though I not only felt grateful for such an indulgence,
but was convinced, that we could not proceed far with
our own oxen, as they already showed symptoms of great
weariness, yet at first I was not disposed to accept of
the landdrost's generous offer, considering myself not
entitled to such distinction, and disliking the idea of be-
coming burdensome to the farmers, by pressing their
men and cattle into our service, perhaps with injury or
inconvenience to themselves. On both these subjects,
however, the landdrost satisfied my mind, particularly
by stating, that the farmers received a sufficient conside-
ration for services thus performed, and had no reason to
complain, since the English Government had ruled the
colony. It was our intention to have purchased a spann
at this place, a measure which was now superseded;
and as we could spare at least one of our Hottentots,
old Christian Hector was sent home with the spann we
had hired at GnadenthaL Mr. and Mrs. Von Buissini
insisted upon our taking up our abode at their house,
and treated us with every mark of kindness and hos-
pitality.
The drosty is a substantial, spacious, well-furnished
mansion, and the premises much improved by the pre-
sent landdrost. The town or village lies scattered, and
consists of several single houses or rows of buildings,
connected with each other, without much regularity.
The church is a neat plain structure, without a toAver.
The number of inhabitants is said to be about three
hundred. The situation of Zwellendam is under the
highest part of a range of lofty mountains, whose rocky
summits assume all manner of singular shapes. Two
peaks, like truncated cones, form their principal
feature, and the kloofs and beds of torrents, with which
their steep sides are furrowed, have an almost terrific
appearance. Parallel to their foot runs a range of low
^^i JOURNAL OF A
round hills, some of which are rocky, others, clothed
with verdure.
9th. The oxen required by the landdrost to be fur-
nished for us, eighteen in number, were early at hand,
and the drivers in haste to proceed. Having been ad-
vised to take our own spann with us as a reserve, we
appointed Lebrecht Aris to the care of them; Jeremias
to drive the baggage^wagon ; Leonhard Paerl to take
charge of the saddle-horses, and Marcus and Johannes
to attend the lighter wagon.
About nine A. M. we left the landdrost's hospitable
mansion, in which we had felt ourselves quite at home.
In Mr. Von Buissini, we found a friend, and a man of
superior intellect and information. He speaks English
fluently, as likewise German and other languages, and
possesses a good library. Mrs. Buissini is a lady of
most affable and benevolent character, and treated Sister
Schmitt with great kindness. She also bestowed several
necessary articles of provisions upon us, such as fowls,
wheaten bread, and garden fruits. At her request. Sis-
ter Schmitt visited a Hottentot maid-servant, who for-
merly belonged to the Groenekloof congregation, till her
husband finding work in this place brought her hither.
She was confined to her bed by a severe illness, and
on seeing Sister Schmitt enter the room, burst into a
flood of tears, exclaiming, '^ This, indeed, is an answer
to my prayers, for I have cried incessantly unto the
Lord, especially during my present illness, to grant me
the favour again to see one of my teachers."
The landdrost had mentioned the Settlement at Zuur-
brack, belonging to the Missionary Society in London,
about half a day's journey from Zwellendam, as worthy
of our notice, and had given orders to our drivers to pass
through that place, on our way to the next station at the
Groot Vaders Bosch. They were civil, good-humoured
people, and drove at a brisk rate, often at a sharp trot.
The road was good, the weather pleasant, clear, and
cool, and our party in excellent spirits. As we left Zwel-
lendam, the views to the south became more extensive,
and the mountains to the north assumed a milder charac=
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 125
ter, till the view of the high range was intercepted by
lower hills.
Farms are not numerous in this part of the country.
We crossed several brooks, and regretted to see a good
deal of water, that precious fructifying agent in this dry
land, running to waste, though the valleys appeared capa-
ble of culture. But the land allotted to each farm occu-
pies so large a tract of country, and labourers are so
scarce, that some apology may be made for the inhabi-
tants. Since the slave-trade has been abolished, and the
slaves remaining in the colony are sold at an enormous
price, particularly if they are skilled in any art, the ser-
vices of Hottentots are more wanted in the cultivation of
the land. Thus they have been taught better to know
their own value, and will no longer submit to the treat-
ment they formerly received. Being both by Dutch and
English laws a free nation, they cannot be compelled to
serve an unjust or tyrannical master, and it is solely ow-
ing to their natural indolence, that many of them remain
in poverty and misery. The effect of Christian instruc-
tion contributes most towards raising them from the ab-
ject and wretched state, into which they had been plun*
ged, by gradually changing their dispositions, and making
them obedient, not only to the precepts of the Gospel,
but to all those moral and civil obhgations which it incul-
cates, as they are successively explained to them by their
tea^chers.
About an Enghsh mile above a pleasant farm, called
Rotterdam, we arrived at the BuefTeljagd's Revier. The
bushes covering both banks near the ford consist chiefly
of the mimosa. Having crossed the river, we turned to
the left, out of the main road, under a hill, the ascent of
which was covered with a profusion of large aloes. This
was the first time we had seen this singular plant growing
in such abundance.
The vale of the Zuurbrack is, at its entrance from the
west, narrow and full of wood. The BuefTeljagd's Re-
vier winds from side to side between steep banks, and
must be forded twice before the missionary Institution
can be approached. A few Hottentot women, imitating
the custom at Gnadenthal, came out to meet us, and
126 JOURNAL OF A
walking alongside of the wagons, bid us welcome with a
hymn. The valley w^idens near the settlement, and ap-
pears to be a spot well chosen for the purposes of such
an institution. VVe were received by Mr. and Mrs.
Seidenfaden, her mother, and brother, and his assistant,
Mr. Wimmer, with great kindness. After some conver-
sation and refreshment, we proceeded to see Mr. Seiden-
faden's gardens, which are well laid out. After dinner,
we walked w^ith him through the Hottentot village, which
at present consists of one row of huts on the north side
of the valley. Some of them we entered, and conversed
with the inhabitants. They were friendly, and express-
ed their thankfulness for the instruction they receive, and
for the zeal with which the missionaries endeavour to
promote their temporal and spiritual welfare.
Mr. Seidenfaden is a man of an active, benevolent
mind, and generous spirit. He has himself built a good
substantial house, with a spacious hall, in which he meets
his congregation, and keeps school with the children and
young people. The Missionary Society in London, un-
der whose direction he acts, have not as yet thought
proper to build a church in this place, and the small
sum he could raise for the purpose, proved quite inade-
quate to the undertaking. A beginning, however, was
made on an eminence near the house, but his expecta-
tions failing, the work remains unfinished. He appears
to deserve more encouragement, for the situation is such^
that in time a considerable settlement might be formed.
After a pleasant stay of about four hours with this
worthy family, we set out for the next station, accompa-
nied by Mr. Seidenfaden and his brother-in-law on
horseback, to direct us in crossing the river, the banks
of which are so very steep, that all the skill of Hottentots
in driving was required, to bring the wagons and oxen
safely through the water. At one of the "fords, an ox,
becoming wild, disengaged himself from the yoke. But
we were in a most romantic place, in which s*^ome deten-
tion was not unpleasant. While the Hottentots were
pursuing the frightened beast, the wagons remaining sta-
tionary in the midst of the stream, we contemplated with
delight the surrounding scenery. To the right, the wa-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA* 127
ter rushed forward between steep, woody banks, in the
deep shade of overspreading trees, towards a range of
low hills, enclosing the valley to the south. To the left
rose a dark, gloomy forest, ascending a deep kloof, be-
tween perpendicular rocks, and stretching along the foot
of the mountains, whose tops were enveloped in black
clouds, rendered more frowning, as contrasted with the
splendour of a bright sun in the west, beautifully light-
ing up every part of the valley, while the sides of the
mountains were buried in shade. The river seemed to
fly from the dark recesses of the kloof towards a milder
region. Close by the ford lay the skeleton of an ox;
wolves, jackals, and tygers having feasted on its flesh,
of which but little was left for Mr. Seidenfaden's large
dog. This fine animal had accompanied us, and now
improved the opportunity of making a meal of the re-
mainder; for the dogs belonging to African farmers and
Hottentots are not regularly fed, but live upon what they
find. Having secured the wild ox, we proceeded, and
soon took leave of our worthy friends, who returned to
Zaur brack, with our best wishes and prayers for God's
blessing to rest upon their labours.
Our road lay through the valley, and as long as It was
light, we feasted our eyes on the delightful scenery, till
we reached the farm of Mr. V^an Ass, in Groot Vader's
Bosch. This was the first boors house, to which we
had recourse for a night's lodging. When we produced
the landdrost's order for Vorspann, Mr. Van Ass made
many difficulties, complaining, that it put him to great in-
convenience to harbour and forward us on our journey ;
that he had no beds, and could render us no assistance
in providing supper, though there were ten or more
slaves and Hottentot maids in his kitchen, unemployed.
At length, he showed us into a room, where we might
put down our mattresses, and even agreed, that Sister
Schmitt might have the use of the kitchen-fire. Finding
ns satisfied with his arrangements, he brightened up a
little, and entered into conversation with civility. As it
turned out a wet night, our Hottentots slept in the tent.
10th. A thick fog covered the mountains, but while
we were at breakfast, it cleared away, and presented to
128 JOURNAL OP A
our view a charming landscape. Mr. Van Ass^s premi-
ses seem formerly to have been kept in better order than
they are at present. He is a bachelor, and his domestics
appeared to be an idle crew. Sister Schmitt, having
discovered, that several of the women professed to be-
long to the Zuurbrack congregation, though they very sel-
dom went thither, represented to them, how much they
had to answer for, when so favourable an opportunity
was afforded them to hear the word of God for their
salvation, if they made light of it, neglecting the means,
and even dishonouring the cause of the Gospel by their
lives and conversation. Her reproof, delivered with
great mildness, seemed to make some impression upon
them. On our leaving the place, several of them ex-
pressed a wish to have more conversation with her, as
we slowly followed the wagons up the hill, and seemed
much affected at taking leave.
The Groot Vader's Bosch is a forest retained by Go-
vernment, the trees growing chiefly in the kloofs and
valleys, which intersect the high range of mountains. As
we proceeded, the appearance of the country grew less
interesting. Very few farms are seen in the wide waste
towards thie south. Some kivits, or plovers, were the
only birds, and a duyker (antelope) the only quadruped
we saw, during several hours' ride. The low hills are
covered with aloes, and the vales rich in bushes, chiefly
of the mimosa kind.
At two o'clock, we reached Mr. Lombard's farm, on
Duyven hoek's Revier. This gentleman is a relation of
Mr. Von Helsland, on Bock Revier. As he had been a
commandant of the volunteer farmers in the CaiTre war,
and was well acquainted with all the country about the
Chamtoos and Klein Reviers, I showed him the list of
Government-places I had received, through the kindness
of the Colonial Secretary, which led him to give us some
interesting information concerning the situation, -nature of
the soil, and present possession of these places, by which,
in some measure, we were directed in our future inquiries.
He seemed anxious to detain us, and finding in him a
xevy intelligent and well-informed man, we would wil-
lingly have availed ourselves of his friendly invitation^
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 129
had we not wished to make the best use of our time in
the prosecution of our journey. For the services Mr.
Lombard rendered to General Dundas in theCaffre war,
he was presented with a very elegant gun. His farm is
well built, and situated upon a rising ground, command-
ing a fine prospect across the river, towards the moun-
tains. The walls of the hall, which is the common room
of the family, were decorated with French prints, more
highly finished in their execution, than decent in their sub-
jects. On taking leave, Mr. Lombard pressed us, on our
return, to spend three or four days with him, when he
would take us to the seacoast, show us the surrounding
country, hunt with Mr. Melville, and, as a summxim bo-
num^ treat us with oysters.
Both in approaching to, and leaving this farm, we had
to cross the Duyvenhoek's Revier, which, by some par-
tial rain on the hills, had acquired both depth and rapid-
ity. The road to our next station was interesting only
by a full view of the grand ridge of mountains, which
here assumed a different character, appearing in de-
tached parties, with a high peak towards the west, and a
precipitous descent to the east.
About six in the evening, we arrived at Mr. Piet Du
Preez's farm, where we met with a cordial reception.
We found here a Mr. S. a smith by trade, who had for-
merly belonged to our Church, and resided in some of
the settlements of the Brethren in Germany. He seem-
ed much pleased to meet with countrymen in the Breth-
ren, Schmitt and Stein. Two English dragoons were as
much delighted to see three o{ their countrymen, but told
us, that in consequence of the capture and punishment of
five of the boors, engaged as principals in the late re-
bellion, the people in the Langekloof were ill-disposed
towards the English, and very sulky. As the weather
was fair, we wished to proceed another stage, but the
family protested against it, the road being too bad for
night-travelling. It was well we staid within doors, for
unexpectedly a thick fog announced a change of wca-
the r.
17
J 30 JOURNAL OF A
CHAPTER VIl.
Zeekoegat on the Vat Revier. Conversation with Hottentots.
Soete^Melks'Valley. Delay at Tygerfonteyn^ and on the
Gowritz Revier. Kleinberg. MosseUBay. Arrange-
ments made by Government. Aloes. Mr. Meyer^s farm
at Hartenbosch. Account of Wild Beasts. Flying Ants.
Beautiful scenery on the Great Brak Revier. Groene--
land. Description of Hoogte Kraal. Arrival at George.
Account of the Kxecution of five of the rebellious boors.
11th. Having despatcned a horseman to the next Veld-
cornet for relays, and taken leave of our kind host and
hostess, we left their hospitable mansion about seven in
the morning. Mr. Du Preez is a lively old man, and
constantly wears a large round hat. His house is well
built, and the farm extensive. The oxen he had furnish-
ed were extremely wild, and set off in a gallop. They
almost ran over our Hottentot Johannes, as he was tack-
ing through the bushes, down the hill, towards the river.
We passed through several pretty vales, full of shrubs
and low wood, in which the thorn-bush and milk-bush,
(fiscus,) a tree not unlike a Portugal laurel, were most
abundant. The hills are low and heathy. In one of
these sequestered vales, we made halt to breakfast.
Near the road lay the carcasses of three large vultures,
half devoured by beasts of prey. About noon we arriv-
ed at Zeekoegat, on Vat Revier, a large farm belonging
to Mr. Cpbus Du Preez. An avenue of noble oaks leads
up to the house. The buildings are substantial, and
surrounded by rich plantations, unlike most of the farm-
ers' dwellings in this country. The master very civilly
came out to meet us, and prevailed on us to stay with
him, till the heat of the day had somewhat abated. Af-
ter dinner- Mr. Du Preez walked with us into the
grounds, where oranges, lemons, figs, peaches, and other
fruits grow in rich abundance. This is owing to the
quantity of water, by which he is able to irrigate all his
orchards, gardens, and vineyards. Seeing some Hot-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 131
tentot women sitting under the shade of a large orange
tree, Brother Schmitt addressed them, asking some
questions relating to their knowledge of spiritual thingjs,
as one of them professed to belong to Mr. Seidenfaden's
congregation. She seemed, however, to have little con-
cern about the way of salvation, and very seldom attend-
ed the ministry of that good man, or visited his institu-
tion. She said, her name was written down, and thought
that enough; but Brother Schmitt very earnestly ad-
monished her and her companions, not to neglect the op-
portunity afforded them to hear the word of God, nor
to be content with having their names written down in
man's book, but to turn in faith to Christ the only Sa-
viour, that they might, on the great day of judgment,
find their names written in the book of life. They seem-
ed attentive to his serious but affectionate address.
The view up the vale of the Vat Revier is grand, high
mountains forming the back-ground. One of them has
a remarkable precipice towering above the other sum-
mits. We left Zeekoegat towards evening, and had two
young lively slaves for drivers, but the leader was a poor
timid old fellow, who could hardly creep along. We
therefore dismissed him, at a place where he had a
home, and made Johannes leader, which, though an of-
fice inferior to that of driver, he willingly undertook.
The slaves drove their oxen at a gallop, sometimes to
the endangering of our safety, on a road full of holes
and slopes. But our remonstrances were answered only
by good-humoured laughter. After travelling for some
miles, we found the chain of hills, to which the road had
long run parallel, take another direction, and assume a
different appearance, presenting an outline of Table-
Mountain's round-topped, triangular, conical, or gently-
sloping summits. We were sorry, that by darkness and
fogs they were so soon hid from our view. About nine
o'clock we arrived at an outspann-place, Soete-Melk's-
Valley, and encamped in the field. The name did not
deceive us, for the good-natured baas of the adjoining
farm, coming out to meet us, offered to supply as much
sweet milk as we might want. We therefore sent a
man to his house, and got enough for supper, and to fill
i:J2 jotJKNAL or A
our bottles in store for the next day. Our friendly neigh-
bour spent about an hour in conversation with us. He
was eager after news, and of a more inquisitive turn than
many of his brethren. My fire-box surprised and amus-
ed him much. Being a dealer in timber, he gave us
t^ome interesting information concerning the state of the
Woods.
As the pressed oxen were rather wild, and too near
home, to be left loose in the waste, without danger of
their escaping, the men tethered them to the wagons,
by which we were greatly annoyed during the night.
Our own oxen, which we had not seen since we left
Zwellendam, overtook us at this place, and as the tent
happened to be pitched on a grassy spot, they soon came
brovvzing close to it. This disturbed us a little, but we
were completely roused, when some of them began to
tight with the strangers, and it required all the attention
of our men to keep them in order.
12th. After a restless night, we broke up early, but
not before our talkative neighbour had paid us another
visit. We proceeded through a dull country, the weather
cloudy, and the views obscured. We saw many rehbocks,
and Marcus Moses was sent, but in vain, to get us some
venison. Between nine and ten we arrived at Cornelius
Snyman's farm, Tygerfonteyn, deriving its name from
the death of a Hottentot by a tyger, some years ago.
Here we hoped to find oxen, but, through the blunder
of the Veldcornet, were disappointed. Mr. Snyman and
his wife were civil people, and we all soon found em-
ployment, Mr. Melville and I in writing and drawing;
Sister Schmitt, with the help of the maids, in attending
to our linen, and the Brethren Schmitt and Stein, in fol-
lowing some ostriches, with the vain hope of shooting
one of these wary and swift-footed birds. To please
the chddren, I set up my microscope, and though some
were afraid to peep into it, the father and mother, and
a little boy seemed highly gratified by the exhibition.
Unpleasant as in many respects this delay appeared, yet
we were glad that we had met with a friendly family,
who did all in their powder to assist us.
13th. Our generous host and hostess would take
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 133
nothing for what we had enjoyed at their house, but
even provided us, gratis, with milk and bread for our
journey. For a fine fat sheep, Mr. Snyman was satisfied
to take two Gnadenthal knives, called here Boschlem-
mers, the goodness of which has long recommended them
to the inhabitants of the colony. From hence we tra-
velled through a bushy country, with a vast variety of
flowering shrubs and plants, many of which we brought
into the wagons to examine. They afforded us great
gratification, though our want of knowledge in botany
made it impossible to describe them. After a ride of
nearly four hours, we forded the Gowritz Revier, which
here has a sandy bed, enclosed between low, heathy
hills. The descent to the river is very steep. We passed
between two farms, both of which had received orders
to furnish oxen. But we were again disappointed, and
obliged to encamp. The plain was almost covered with
a species of large black beetles, apparently journeying
from place to place, disgusting in their shape, and slowly
crawling upon every thing we laid down. Meanwhile
Mr. Melville found an old friend, Mr. Petersen, Govern-
ment-Surveyor of the district of George, who had just
arrived, and to whom he mentioned the object of our
journey. The surveyor being well acquainted with
every part of the district, his information was of much
use to us, but he gave us no hopes of finding any unoc-
cupied land suitable for a missionary settlement, either
near George or in Mossel-Bay.
To the latter place we had resolved to bend our
course, both by advice of Mr. Von Buissini, and in con-
sequence of an offer of land made to me by the Colonial
Secretary, Mr. Ale^xander, in case we should find his
estate an eligible situation.
Brother Schmitt was here taken very ill with violent
headach, and general weakness. When we therefore
had procured oxen, we were obliged to proceed gently,
as he found the motion of the wagon almost insupport-
able. The slave-boy, given us for a leader, was a re-
markably lively lad, and, with his stories and mimickries,
afforded to our Hottentots a good deal of merriment. In
general, we seldom found the slaves, either old or young,
134 JOURNAL OF A
much depressed by their situation. They appeared
full of vivacity and mirth.
About six o'clock we arrived at a farm on Stinkrevier.
Mr. Melville accompanied me into the yard, vi^here we
sought in vain for the proprietor. Only one Hottentot
maid seemed left in charge of the premises. Half a
hundred geese, and as many ducks, turkeys, and fowls,
having probably been accustomed to be fed atx5ut this
time, came running and flying towards us, jsrii cackling
and crying out for food. They followed tfs to the wa-
gons, and we could not refuse a meal to such hungry sup-
plicants.
Having left our orders for a relay, we proceeded to-
wards the river, which was nearly dry, and pitched our
tent for the night. The moon shone bright, but the air
was very cold. The Hottentots, therefore, after making
a hearty meal, retired into the wagons to sleep.
14th. Early, we were disturbed by a great bleating of
oxen and other noises close to the tent. We rose to see
what was the matter, and perceived, that about fifty
head of cattle, passing on to a grazing place, according
to their usual custom, greeted the strangers. Being
tethered to the wagons, and not able to follow, the lat-
ter answered by moans, expressive of their disappoint-
ment, some even making serious attempts to disengage
themselves. This serenade broke our rest, and pre-
pared us for an early departure. No oxen being fur-
nished by the farmer, we detained those we had in pos-
session, and after a ride of two hours, arrived at a farm
called Kleinberg. Here we were received by the far-
mer Muller, with much civility, and though we had sent
Leonhaid forward with the landdrost's order to the
Veldcornet, and had no written commands to produce,
he readily furnished us with the two spanns required,
supplied us with various articles we wanted ; and,
having a smithy adjoining his house, permitted Brother
Schmitt, who understands something of the trade, to
convert an iron bar into a pot-hook, to be used at our
nocturnal fires; which proved a desirable acquisition.
Few Hottentots live in this part of the country, and
those we saw seemed to be in miserable plight. At
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 135
Kleinberg, we found an old gray-headed man. On put-
ting a few questions to him^ we discovered him to be
quite ignorant, not even knowing that there was a God,
who had created all things, and by whose mercy and
power all things subsist. Brother Schmitt endeavour-
ed to make him acquainted with that, which surely to a
man on the brink of the grave must be of most impor-
tance, the love of God in Christ Jesus. The poor old
man seemed to listen with eagerness, while the missiona-
ry explained to him the way of salvation, and how a
sinner, such as he acknowledged himself to be, might be
pardoned and reconciled by the merits of the sufterings
and death of our Saviour. He then exhorted him not to
forget what he had heard, but before this life was ended,
to cry for mercy and the remission of his sins, that he
might be accepted of God, and depart into the mansions
of peace and bliss. This the poor old Hottentot promi-
sed to do.
We now proceeded towards Mossel-Bay, and got on
with speed. The country through which we travelled
was uninteresting. We passed by a farm belonging to
Mr. Alexander, and turning to the left, towards the coast,
soon came in sight of the buildings erected by Govern-
ment in the bay. On our arrival, we were very civilly
received and hospitably entertained by Mr. Abue, the
store-keeper. He is by birth a Dane. While dinner
was preparing, I took a walk to the seashore. The
rocks consist chiefly of sand-stone, coloured in some
places by iron or manganese, with veins of quartz. I had
broken several pebbles by throwing them upon the
rocks, for want of a hammer, when a large fragment
flew into my face, threw my spectacles aside, and wound-
ed my cheek qlose to my right eye. For some minutes
it put me to a considerable degree of pain, and I was
apprehensive of injury done to the eye itself; but on
bathing the wound with salt water, it ceased to bleed,
and the pain left me. I felt thankful to God, that my glass-
es were not broken, and forced into the eye by the
stone. Our friendly host applied some camphorated
brandy, by which all inflammation was prevented.
Not being able to obtain any oxen, we were under the
136 JOURNAL OF A
necessity of remaining some hours at this place, to give
to those we had brought with us sufficient time for food
and rest. Mr. Abue showed us the premises, and went
with us into the king's store-house, built as a deposit for
corn, to be purchased at a fixed price from the farmers,
and shipped off to Capetown for Government use. —
Though the benevolent intention of Government to fur-
nish a market for the farmers has not altogether been
fu hilled, since the latter think the price given not a suf-
ficient reward for their trouble in raising and dehvering
the corn, jet by some arrangement, it is hoped, that the
settlement in Mossel-Bay will be of use, in affording the
means of disposing of the produce of the country. The
coasts of the bay are bushy, and aloes grow in great
abundance on the surrounding hills. Formerly the ex-
tract of aloes, used in medicine, fetched a price sufficient-
ly high to make it a lucrative trade ; but at present,
since the article has become more common, and the
price fallen, it appears to be not worth the farmer's
while to attend to it, as we were informed by several per-
sons inhabiting the neighbourhood.
About three in the afternoon we left Mossel-Bay, and
went on to Hartenbosch. The road was bad, and Jed
through a forest of large bushes of various kinds, among
which we started some wild peacocks, and a bushbock
antelope ; but it was impossible to follow them, the
i;reat quantity of thorn-bush, Indian figs, and other prick-
y plants rendering the thicket almost impenetrable. We
passed by another farm belonging to Mr. Alexander,
lying between low round hills clothed with aloes and
low wood.
At Hartenbosch, we found friendly faces, and excel-
lent quarters for the night. Mr. Meyer and his whole
family gave us the kindest reception, and seemed much
pleased with our visit. They were amused with the
fire-box, drawing utensils, portable WTitIng desk, ten-
bladed knife, and other English w^are in our possession.
We visited also an old carpenter, who has lived here
many years. The furniture in Mr. Meyer's house, made
of stink-wood, yellow-wood, and other curious woods,
does him great credit, both as to beauty and strength.
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 137
As it turned out a very boisterous evening, we thank-
ed God for having found shelter in the house of so good
a man. He hoped the unfavourable state of the wea-
ther would detain us, and give him more of our com-
pany.
l/)th. When we awoke in the morning, the sky was
covered with black clouds, and it lightened and thunder-
ed much. At eight it cleared up, though the thunder
continued to roar all round the horizon. Our friendly
host, at breakfast, gave us an account of the many wild
beasts that haunt the woods and bushy coasts of the bay,
where they have good cover. Tygers and wolves now and
then commit depredations ; wild buffaloes are sometimes
seen ; but wild dogs are numerous and most to be
dreaded. A wolf hunts only at night, h cowardly, and
may be guarded against by various means ; but the
wild dogs go in troops, and hunt night and day. They
attack every living animal, and the '' dread of man" is
but slight upon them. Mr. Meyer related, that if they
have killed a tame animal, they will quit it on being at-
tacked by man, but not if their prey is wild game. Not
long ago, a troop of them hunted a rehbock into his
neighbour's yard. The farmer sallied forth with his
gun to drive off the pursuers, and secure the fugitive for
his own table, but was instantly attacked by the dogs,
and his life with difficulty saved by his people. Porcu-
pines are numerous; serpents creep into the poultry-
yards and houses and do much mischief. Our host get-
ting up in the dark, and walking into thq hall, felt some-
thing hke a rope about his legs. On calling for a light,
he discovered it to be a yellow serpent. Had he acci-
dentally trod upon it, he would have been bitten by the
venomous reptile.
About nine o'clock, we took leave of the family. No
where have we yet met with a more cordial reception
than at Hartenbosch.
We entered a kloof between hills moderately high,
intersected by charming little glens and coves, fill-
ed with luxuriant bushes and many aloes. A pleasant
brook ran winding down the vale. But we had not long
enjoyed the delightful scenery among these interesting
18
138 JOURNAL OF A
and ever-varying hills and dales, before black clouds
came sweeping along their summits with lightning, thun-
der, and rain. When the rain ceased, and the sun began
again to shine upon us, the air was filled with millions of
small flying ants, each having four wings. Many fell
upon our clothes, and stuck to the w^et coverings of the
wagons, while the main army passed over us, in appear-
ance like a cloud of dust. From the hills, we descend-
ed into a grassy plain with a ridge of higher mountains
before us. On a peak in the fore-ground stood two re»
markable rocks, shaped so as to resemble decayed cas-
tles. Mr. Melville and Stein followed some wild pea-
cocks for some time, but in vain. After fording the Lit-
tle Sout Revier in two places, we halted on the banks of
the great Brak Revier. Here we saw our own oxen
feeding, having advanced no farther towards George^
and we were glad to find them in good condition.
From hence we sent our old groom, Leonhard, to Mr.
De Watt's house, w^here oxen had been ordered for us,
to desire that they might meet us on the banks of the
river. The old man gave such an account of the dignity
of his employers, that the honest farmer was soon awed
into compliance, and sent his son with the beasts, with
an apology for not waiting upon us in person. This was
the first time that the requisition for relays had perfectly
succeeded.
The vale, in which we had halted, pleased us much,
and appeared to have many requisites for a settlement.
But besides being occupied, we w^ere informed, that in
the rainy season it is turned into a lake, by the overflow-
ing of the river. In all directions the scenery is beauti-
ful. Towards the estuary, the low hills consist of white
sand, their tops covered thick with bushes. The state
of the tide admitting of our fording the river, we pro-
ceeded towards its eastern bank, and ascended the hills-
Here the character of the soil seemed to change, and
instead of iron and sand-stone, which had followed
us from Gnadenthal, the road glistened with bright sil-
ver-coloured mica, in small fragments of granite. The
quartz was of a bluish hue, the'feldspath brown, and in
some stones mixed with hornblend and shoerl. On each
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 159
side of the road are deep glens. Down that to the left,
abroad brook hurried swiftly amidst rocky shores, and
impenetrable thickets, which rose to the brow of the
hill. A smaller stream gHded more gently down the
right-hand deeper glen, in which a considerable quantity
of large timber shaded its dark recesses. The descent
into it was, in many places, almost perpendicular, with
rocks richly clothed with beautiful creepers, the crevices
affording nourishment to their roots, and to those of a
vast variety of shrubs and trees. Our walk up the hill
was rendered extremely pleasant, by the view of these
natural beauties, and of the hilly country we had left
behind.
Having gained the summit, we arrived at an extensive,
grassy plain, with a distant view of the mountains of
George to the north and east. The plain is called
Groeneland. At a mean solitary cottage, we quenched
our thirst with some butter-milk, and travelled along a
smooth road, till an unexpected steep descent seemed to
arrest our progress. A rapid brook, fed by numberless
small streams, precipitating themselves in cascades, from
the steep and rocky banks, rushed wildly through the
bottom of the glen.
Having overtaken a wagon with fourteen oxen, with
a family travelling towards George, and halting near
the descent, a consultation was held, and Leonhard des-
patched with a horse to try the depth of the ford. The
bed of the brook consisted of loose stones, over which
the water passed furiously, about three feet in depth.
Being no courtiers, neither party strove to take prece-
dence of the other, but each offered to its new friends
the honour of a first plunge, and as we had arrived last,
we submitted to remain spectators of the extraordinary
manner in which their wagon reeled from side to side
through the flood, when we likewise ventured in, and
got safe to shore. The thunder-showers of last night
had considerably increased the waters of the brook, but
the tide coming in, had now swelled it into the ap~
pearance of a large river, farther down the valley.
Having a desire to see the missionary institution call-
ed Hoogte Kraal, under the superintendency of the
140 JOURNAL OP A
Reverend Mr. Pacalt, sent out by the Missionary Society
in London, we left the above-mentioned party to proceed
alone to George, and turned to the right. The ascent from
the brook led us to another grassy plain, intersected by
two narrow and rocky glens, by which we arrived about
six in the evening at Hoogte Kraal. We were received
with much friendly attention by Mr. Pacalt, but not hav-
ing a house spacious enough to harbour so large a party,
he proposed that we should put down our mattresses in
his chapel, after the usual evening-service. This, how-
ever, did not begin till nine o'clock, to give the Hotten-
tots time to return from their work in the neighbouring
farms. Meanwhile, the time was agreeably spent in
conversation. At nine, the people were called together
by the sound of a cow's horn, blown by a maid-servant,
in place of a bell. About a hundred men and women
attended. The men and women sit separate, as in most
foreign churches, on benches, and are addressed from a
table and desk, as with us. The chapel is a temporary
building, with one door at the gable-end. By a judicious
arrangement, therefore, on leaving it, the women go out
first, then the men, and the minister follows. The ser-
vice consisted of two hymns, an exposition of a portion
of scripture, which this evening was the beginning of
our Saviour's sermon on the mount, a prayer, and a
concluding hymn. The voices of the congregation were
excessively loud, and the tunes sung some of the most
lively now in use in some chapels in England, but, both
in their character and the manner of singing them, bid-
ding defiance to all solemnity and good taste. After Mr.
Pacalt had spoken about two minutes, a woman began to
make a strange tremulous noise. Supposing her to be
suddenly seized with illness, I was surprised to find no
one ready to help and lead her out, till her neighbours,
catching the infection, the noise spread throughout the
whole assembly, the men uttering deep groans. In his
prayer, the missionary affectionately remembered us,
and we were sorry to be so much disturbed, by the con-
tinuance of these jarring sounds. On expressing our
astonishment at the disturbance thus occasioned to the
service, Mr. Pacalt informed us, that it had been con-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 141
sidered as a sign of conviction, by the power of the
Word. But supposing even that true conviction of sin
might, in some, produce this effect, who does not see,
that insincerity may easily adopt such external marks,
to gam the good opinion of men, whose piety and truth
beu)g unsuspected, are willing to beheve others incapa-
ble of so great a fraud. Feeling as I do for the honour
of the cause we are all equally eager to promote, and
highly respecting the efforts made by missionaries of
every denomination, though differing from us in forms,
and perhaps in opinions, as to minor points, I would
humbly submit to the consideration of the directors of all
missionary institutions, whether it would not be well to
avoid every thing that needlessly gives occasion to the
evil-minded to ridicule or oppose our labours. We have
reason to take the apostle's frequent warnings to heart,
that we may not " let our good be evil spoken of."
16th. At^ter breakfast, Mr. Pacalt proceeded to show
us the settlement, which is as yet but small. The cotta-
ges are placed in regular rows. The gardens are well
laid out, and the Hottentots, both by precept and exam-
ple, taught diligently to attend to the rearing of garden-
produce of various kinds; but there are no trees, nor
any plantations or nurseries. Indeed, the elevated
situation of the place, and the nature of the soil, is said
to be unfavourable to the groAvth of trees, the shade of
which, however, is an almost essential requisite in an Af-
rican summer.
Mr. Pacalt has a small house of two rooms. His la-
bour is great. Every day he keeps school, and meets
the congregation in the evening, being without an assis-
tant, and having the direction and management of all
the outward concerns of the establishment. He was
now building a smithy.
Our Hottentots having suffered the oxen to go astray,
some of us visited the people in their kraals, and con-
versed with them in a friendly way. Wild dogs have
lately done much harm in this neighbourhood. When
we were ready to set off, a Berg-adder, reported to be
one of the most venomous of serpents, appeared under
«he oxen, and was killed. She was about two feet long,
142 JOURNAL OF A
beautifully marked with a double row of multangular
spots down the back, and underneath, of a silver-gray
colour.
After an hour's ride across the desert, we arrived at
the town of George, and immediately proceeded to the
house of the landdrost, Mr. Van Kervel. He was
absent, but soon returned from accompanying Mr.
George Rex, an English gentleman, who possesses a
large farm in Plettenberg Bay, called Melkhout Kraal.
Having presented Colonel Bird's letter to the landdrost,
we conversed some time on the particular business for
which we had undertaken the journey. He expressed
the greatest readiness to render us every service in his
power, and a wish that we might find some land to
suit our purpose within his district. He advised us to
look at a spot in Plettenberg Bay, called Jackal's Kraal,
which, though rejected by Dr. Van der Kemp, as not
sufficiently large, might yet suit usy and under cultiva-
tion, be made a fit dwelling for a Christian Hottentot
congregation of about five hundred persons, having also
the convenience of conveyance by water between the
bay and Capetown.
After some consultation, we resolved to take the land-
drost's advice. He offered every faciHty to enable us
to perform the journey; proposing also, that we should
stay at his house till Monday morning, that he might
send messages to the Veldcornets, both in Plettenberg
Bay and in the Lange Kloof, to furnish us with oxen at
the different stations, and prevent delay. We determined
accordingly to spend another day with this worthy man,
of whose excellent character we had heard many a true
report ; far short, however, of what we found it to be.
In the afternoon, he invited several friends to meet us,
with whom we spent a very pleasant evening. The
landdrost being a great lover of music, I did not want
much entreaty to play for him many of Haydn's and
Mozart's compositions, which, though familiar to me,
were new to him, and seemed to afford him great delight.
When the company had retired, we took a walk to see
the new church now building, after a design of Mr.
Petersen, the Government Surveyor. The outer walls
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 143
and roof were finished. It will be a handsome structure
in the Grecian style, and contain from a thousand to
fifteen hundred people, but without a steeple, on ac-
count of the high winds, or rather, the low state of
the town-purse. The clergyman's house will be placed
on one, and the school on the other side of the church,
forming a handsome range of buildings.
17th. Being Sunday, we prepared to go to church.
Service is now performed in a farm-house, the inner
walls being taken out, so as to form a spacious room,
holding about two hundred people.
In the morning, the whole country was enveloped
in a thick fog, but it dispersed during the forenoon.
We accompanied the landdrost in his travelling wagon,
drawn by four horses, to the temporary church, and
found an assistant, reading a sermon to about sixty
hearers. It was a dry discussion of doctrinal points,
with an attempt, in the usual way, to prove the doc-
trine of particular election and reprobation, which
tended but little to edification. The reader, however,
concluded with an extempore prayer, in a strain of
humility and true christian charity, which seemed to
proceed from his heart. We regretted, therefore, the
more, that he was not left to preach the doctrine of sal-
vation by faith in the merits of Jesus Christ, the Saviour
of all repenting sinners, but obliged to unfurl the banner
of a party, in reading a controversial discourse. The
concluding hymn was accompanied on an organ, much
out of tune. After service, we took a walk in the gar^
den, and on our return, ascending the foot of the moun-
tain in the wagon, visited the woods on its declivityj ad-
miring the luxuriant 2;rowth of many large timber-trees.
George is a new district, town, and drosty, settled by
Sir J. Cradock, when Governor of the Cape; Zwellen-
dam having been divided into two separate districts, each
governed by alanddrost, Heemraaden, and other officers.
The town has about one hundred inhabitants. The
houses are two stories high, having an " erker," or bow-
window over the door. They stand detached from each
other by intermediate gardens, and form a broad street
facing the drosty, or landdrost's mansion, from which.
]4i JOURNAL OF A
turning in a right angle towards the soutJi, another street
has been begun, containing the church, parsonage and
school-house. The town is watered, rather scantily, by
the Zw^art Revier, a small stream from the mountains,
but Avhich, unlike others, flows both in the dry and rainy
season.
After dinner, the Reverend Mr. Herold, minister of
George, having returned from Uitenhagen, called on the.
landdrost, to make a report of his attendance on the five
rebellious boors, who were executed last Saturday in
that district. He gave a most melancholy account of
that event. The han^rman was a black. The halters
were too weak, or rather, as some suspected, intentional-
ly cut; but no sooner had the delinquents been turned
off, and the platform removed, than four of the five fell
from the gallows. Having unfortunately been persuaded
to believe, that by English custom, a man thus falling-
down is free, the poor wretches cried for mercy, and one,
addressing the by-standers, exclaimed, that by this acci-
dent it was made manifest, that God w^ould not permit
them to be put to death. The landdrost. Colonel Cuy-
ler, was, however, obliged to let justice take its course,
and other halters being procured, they were launched
into eternity. The clergyman described them all as well
prepared to die, acknowledging the justice of their sen-
tence, and appearing truly penitent. Not many specta-
tors attended; but their wives and relatives were pre-
sent, w4iich is hardly to be explained by the standard of
English feeling. No disturbance whatever took place, a
party of dra^^oons and the Cape regiment keeping
guard. This is said to be the first time that any Afri-
can's descendants from Europeans have suffered death
for crimes deemed capital in Europe. Government has
often extended mercy to such as deserved condign pu-
nishment, but it seems only to have had that effect, that
the rebels believed no Government to have the courage
to take away their lives, for crimes committed against the
state. It was, therefore, necessary to make an example,
and out of twenty-four condemned to die, five of the
most notorious offenders had been selected for the pur-
pose. The rest were punished with imprisonment, for-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 145
feiture, or banishment. The Reverend Mr. Herold
seemed greatly agitated, and declared, that the impres--
sion made on his mind by so dreadful a catastrophe
would not soon be effaced.
CHAPTER VIII.
Departure from George, Beautiful Scenery. Description
of the Defiles of Kaymaii^s Gat and Trekata^kou. Arri-
val at Mr. Zaayman^s farm. The Veldcornefs account of
tygers. Ford in the Ruygte Valley. Accidents which be-
fel some of the party. First view of the Knysna. Arri-
val at Melkhout Kraal. Survey of JackaVs Kraal in
Plettenberg Bay. Objections of the Hottentots to a set-
tlement in that place,
18th, Having despatched our letters to Gnadenthal, with
an account of our journey and transactions, since we
left Zwellendam, we prepared for our departure. Mr.
Van Kervel had provided two spanns, each of fourteen
strong oxen, to bring us across the dreadful defiles be-
tween George and Plettenberg Bay. He also furnished
itie with an order for relays as far as Uitenhagen, and
with letters to Mr. Rex^ and a list of places in our route.
To Mr. Zaayman also, a farmer, at whose house we
were to spend the first night, directions were sent to put
us forward on our return from JackaPs Kraal, in case we
took the road over the Duivelskop into the Lange
Kloof. Our own spann of twelve oxen, which w^e had
brought hither from Zwellendam, were left, by his advice,
at George, as they would serve us on our return, but
were too weak to be of any use in crossing the moun-
tains.
At eight o'clock we took leave of this worthy man. I
have seldom, if ever, met with a character so justly de-
serving all the praise bestowed upon him, for the exer-
cise of those qualities which distinguish a good magis-
trate, master, and friend. Not long ago he lost an amia-
ble partner, of whom the servants and slaves in the fa-
10
146 JOURNAL Ot A
mily spoke with the sincerest esteem and tears of regrefr
To us he behaved Hke a father, felt interested in the
success of our undertaking, and it would be ingratitude
in the extreme, not to add our tribute of thankful praise
to the general voice. To Hottentots and slaves he con-
ducted himself not with that severe, repelling air, as-
sumed by so many, who think themselves belonging to a
higher class of beings, but with friendly condescension,
calling forth both their reverence and love. Our Hot-
tentots spoke often with gratitude of the goodness of the
landdrost of George. In his house, peace and order
reigned, and his friends and relatives, among whom was
his nephew, Mr. Du Toit, treated us with the greatest
civility. On taking leave, he repeated his pressing in-
vitation, on our return, again to make his hospitable man-
sion our home.
The farmer, to whom the oxen belonged, and the
Veldcornet, accompanied us, to lend assistance in passing
through the defiles of Kayman's Gat, (the crocodile's
cove,) and Trekata^kou, (the maiden's ford,) by which
we had to enter Piettenberg bay. Early in the morn-
ing, thick fogs had again spread themselves over the
mountains, and we began to fear an upleasant day, and
the loss of th^ romantic views Mr. Van Kervel had de-
scribed as awaiting us in our way. But the sun dis-
persed the mists, and about noon the atmosphere became
remarkably clear. We were extremely delighted with
the beautiful woods and glens, upon which we soon en-
tered, and pronounced the environs of George, flat as its
own situation appears, to be as interesting and romantic
as any part of the country we had yet seen. In about
an hour's time, passing by the farm to which our oxen
belonged, they all on a sudden turned short round, pre-
ferring to graze at their awn quarters, rather than to toil
throuoh the defiles before us. It was with some difficulty
that they were made to proceed.
Our road lay in a line nearly parallel to the high range
of mountains, which here take a direction towards the
Indian ocean. After crossing several pleasant and well-
wooded vales, we reached Kayman's Gat, and found the
description given of it by the landdrost by no means
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 147
exaggerated. The view of the glen is both magnificent
and terrific. On leaving the wagons to walk down the
steep, we began to fear for their safety, and our appre-
hensions were not lessened by Hstening to stories, told
on the road by the Hottentots, of misfortunes experienced
by travellers, whose wagons were broken, and their
cattle killed in the descent, especially in stormy weather.
At first, the road slopes down gradually through a
thicket, with larger trees interspersed. A deep ravine
to the right receives the brook Zwart Revier, the same
which passes by the drosty at George, which, rushing
over precipitous rocks below the road, and out of sight,
causes a great roaring of hidden waters, and adds much
to the grandeur of the scene. It is not so much its steep-
ness, w^hich renders the passage of Kayman's Gat so
dangerous, as the extreme unevenness of the road, if
road that may be called, where, as yet, art has not as-
sisted nature, and the traveller must pass over rocks, in
steps of from one to two feet perpendicular height, the
wagons bouncing down, reeling from side to side, and
but for the management of Hottentots accustomed to
such service, in continual danger of oversetting. They
support the w^gon, by thongs fastened to each side^
pulling with all their might, either to the right or left,
as otherwise, in several places, the wagons, with all their
contents, and the poor beasts staggering before them-,
would be precipitated into the abyss beneath. Long be-
fore we had reached the bottom of the glen, we were con-
vinced, that our own oxen would not have been able to
perform this service. The poor animals seemed often ijutte
confused; the shaft-oxen being almost thro^wn down, the
wagon nearly falling upon them, and the rest of the
spann sometimes hurried forward to draw, and theii
again kept back to prevent mischief It being ebb-tide.
we passed the Kayman's RevJer, which flows through
the glen into the Indian ocean, without difficulty, and
gave a few moments' rest to our frightened cattle, upon
whose strength we were going to draw still more largely,
to work our wagons up the rocky acclivities of the east-
,ern bank. The view of the glen from below is majestic.
The steeps on both sides arc clothed with a.nable foresU
148
JOURNAL OF A
Strata of red rock, shelving down the western bank,
form a singular contrast with the Hvely green of the
bushes on the slopes between them. A deep chasm or
rent receiving the Zwart Revier, as above described, di-
vides the bank, and forms the Gat, or crocodile's cove,
in the dark recesses of which a small water-fall glistens,
by the admission of some faint light from above. It is
said, that formerly crocodiles were found here in great
numbers, making this chasm their chief place of resort.
But they have long since withdrawn, and left to man
full possession. Now and then, a leguan is seen, and
the woods and glens afford pretty safe haunts for various
descriptions of wild beasts. Several glens meet here,
all filled with wood, through which mountain-torrents
swell the revier. It must be crossed at low water, by
which the time of our departure from George had been
measured.
The eastern bank was, if possible, more steep and rug-
ged in its ascent than the western. The baggage-wagon
took the lead, but having laboured hard for about two
hundred paces, the oxen refused to stir another step.
No shouts of the drivers, cracking of whips, or hard blows,
would make the poor dispirited beasts move forward ;
but when farther urged, they turned sharp round, and
threw the whole spann into such confusion, that there
was some danger of the wagon rolling down and drag-
gmg the shaft-oxen backwards. It was therefore neces-
sary to bring up twelve of the second spann to their as--
sistance, and after a long time spent in unyoking the
former, placing them again in order, and adding the
latter. It afforded a singular sight to see twenty-six oxen,
with all their might working the wagon up the lavers
ol rock, of which the road consisted ; every five minutes
resting to take breath. After the heavy wa^on had
i;eached the summit, bolh spanns were sent down to
ietch up the travelhng wagon, which, being lighter, was
more easily accomphshed.
It is impossible to describe all the romantic glens and
singular scenery, with which this region abounds.
Ihetarmer, notwithstanding the excessive fatigue his
i^mk had suffered, after short rest determined to pro-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 149
ceed, without an outspann at Barbier's Kraal, as pro-
posed. Our road lay now through a thick wood, in
which many a mighty tree seems to have yielded to the
axe. Bushrope, or Bavianstau, a species of creeper, re-
sembhng a rope, grows here in abundance, and nearly
envelops some of the loftiest trees, to the destruction
of their growth and beauty. In the woods, a number of
Hottentots and slaves were busily employed in sawing,
and preparing planks, beams, and shingles. In about
an hour, we arrived at Trekata^kou, the second grand
defile, justly dreaded by travellers. The descent from
the west, though rugged and steep, is not attended with
more difficulty than many others in this mountainous
country. The view towards the mass of hills to the
north, is remarkably grand and beautiful.
.On these occasions. Brother Schmitt always attended
the wagons, and, depending on his skill, precaution, and
advice, we could rest satisfied, that every care was
taken to prevent mischief, and overthrow. After cross-
ing a rapid mountain-stream at the bottom of the glen,
rushing through the dark recesses of a wild wood, over
a stony bed, and forming, to the left of the road, a large
pool under some horizontal strata of overhanging rock,
crowned with beautiful trees and shrubs, we beheld the
eastern bank with some degree of dismay. The road
ascended with a steepness, which seemed to baffle the
attempt of any beasts to draw up the lightest weight.
The travelling-wagon, however, reached the top after
great exertion, but the other required both spanns to be
yoked to it. The poor exhausted oxen made more ob-
jections to put forth their remaining strength at this
place, than at Kayman's Gat, and shouts and lashes
seemed to have lost their effect. They turned round,
entangled themselves with the tackle, and more than
once, ten or twelve of them were obliged to be unyoked,
to bring them again into order. We were above an
hour working the wagon up the cliffs.
This afforded time for some examination of the stone
of which the mountain is formed. Towards the bottom
of the defile, huge blocks of granite lie dispersed upon
the surface, but higher up, the chief stone is sand-stone,
150 JOURNAL OF A
with iron and quartz, as usual. The granite is beauti-
ful, with a great quantity of bright, silver-coloured mica,
in large flakes, and in some instances chrystallized. The
feldspath and quartz are much decomposed. Iron has
inserted itself, and seems to be the cause both of speedy
decomposition, and of the division of some of the blocks
into irregular strata. When protected within the bow-
els of the earth, this species of granite may be of a more
durable quality, and some of the larger blocks at the
bottom of the glen w^re so hard, that my hammer and
cold chissels made but little impression upon them. Of
what the strata of rocks beyond the pool might consist,
I was not able to discover, their surface being covered
with red lichen, moss, creepers and ivy.
After sunset, w^e closed the adventurous business of
the day, ai^l arrived at Mr. Zaayman's farm. The
houses, or hovels, are wretchedly constructed, but the
inhabitants were friendly. The farmer and several
other men came out and received us with much civihty,
shaking hands, as is the custom of the country, and bid-
-ding us welcome in the Dutch atyle. Our tent was
pitched in the field, and we were soon provided with a
good supper, being our only meal on this day. While it
was preparing, Mr. Melville went w^th me, to pay a
visit to the farmer in his dwelling, braving the attack of
an host of dogs, to w^hose cowardly barking we could pay
no attention, having carefully to mind our balance on the
stepping stones, over which v/e passed through the deep
mud and filth surrounding the premises. We sat some
time with the family, the V^eldcornet, and some visiters,
and obtained much information on various subjects con-
nected with our future progress. My fire-box was also
exhibited, to the utter astonishment of all present. Be-
fore we went to rest, we returned thanks to God our
Preserver, for having safely brought us thus far, through
a dangerous path, which to some has even proved fatal.
We were favoured with fine, dry weather, without
which few travellers will venture to cross the defiles
of Kayman's Gat and Trekata'kou.
19th. We rose before sunset, vainly hoping to reach
Melkhout Kraal, Mr. Rex's house on the Knysna, before
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 151
dark. In an hour and a half, we arrived at tlie Veld-
cornet's house. He had accompanied us the whole
way, and now invited us to partake of his breakfast.
This consisted of excellent white bread and butter, sweet
milk, wild honey of delicious flavour, peaches and
pears, served up in the old patriarchal style. His house
and premises lie on an eminence, without any trees or
gardens about them. Having lately shot four tygers^
he exhibited their skins. The largest measured five
feet six inches, from the nose to the root of the tail, the
tail itself four feet. It had seized a young heifer by the
throat, whose bellowing and dying groans brought the^
Veldcornet to the spot, when he shot the ferocious ani-
mal through the body. The skin was much injured, but
beautiful in the brightness of its colours.
Here we saw, for the first time, a proof of the devasta-
tion made by the Caffres during the late war, in the
ruins of the farm-house, of which the walls only were
yet standing. The inhabitants, fearing a repetition of
the incursions of that restless people, have not ventured
to rebuild their houses, and are now satisfied to dwell
in huts, httle better than those of the Hottentots. The
Veldcornet's house, however, was clean and respect-
able.
From hence our road lay along the declivity of a hill :
the mountains with their numerous woody glens, follow-
ing each other in succession, appeared to great advan-
tage till we arrived at the farm of a widow Wyers on
the Zwart Revier. The ford over the river used to be
at this place, where often the water was so deep, that it
proved dangerous to travellers. The new ford, though
shorter, has likewise a deep, muddy bed, through which
we plunged rather unpleasantly, passed over the hill on
which the farm-house is situated, and reached the Ruygte
Valley, where the ford across the river is both broad
and deep. The wagons were emptied, and their con-
tents, as well as ourselves, brought across the stream in
a species of canoe, made of one immense tree.
The relay-oxen provided for us, being on this side^
were obliged to cross the water, and we were amused
by observing the different degrees of courage or fear^
152 JOURNAL OF A
shown bj these sober animals, in choosing their own
places to enter it. Some leaped in at once and swam
boldly forward. Others, after contemplating one spot,
went on to another, till they found one more shallow,
which they entered warily : some found themselves de-
ceived in the sequel, and had a longer and deeper
stream to cross than the more courageous. The delay
occasioned by unpacking and repacking the w^agons,
was the most annoying part of the business, and it was
noon, before we reached Mr. Meeling's farm, where we
were hospitably entertained with thick milk, bread, and
butter.
But here we had nearly met with a serious accident.
Sister Schmitt, stepping into the baggage-wagon, slip-
ped off the pole, and fell backwards, by which her head
received such a severe contusion, that, for a short time,
she lost her recollection, and was in much pain. Some
relief was afforded by an application of bukku brandy,
but her anxiety to proceed made her unwilling to cause
delay by staying at this house to be nursed, and we ven-
tured to continue our journey down the valley, between
low, heathy eminences, for about an hour. The road
then led up a steep, barren hill, from the summit of
w^hich one of the finest views w'e had yet seen presented
itself before us, with a well w^ooded foreground of hili
and dale, forming very picturesque scenery. The de-
scent was rough, through deep sand, mixed with large
stones, which rendered the jolting of the wagon insu"[>
portable to Sister Schmitt, who preferred walking down
the hill through the W'ood, though the pain in her head
required rest. The Gowcomma flows through the val-
ley, and the narrow road, rising through a thick wood,
runs rather too close to its steep banks, to remove all
apprehension of the wagon being precipitated into the
stream. We forded this river at a place darkened by
the shade of large trees, and in view of some black
rocks, through which the water forces its way, and ar-
rived safe at the house of Mr. Terblanche, a farmer ot
decayed fortune. Ruins of a larger house, than that
which he now inhabits, made us suspect, that the Caffres
in the late war had destroyed it ; but it seems to have
VISIT 1^ SOUTH AFRICA. 153
befen forsaken from other causes. He was much pleas-
ed to see some company arrive to cheer hirn in his
solitude, and treated us with bread and thick milk.
Here we saw that beautiful bird called the green
cuckoo, one of the few feathered inhabitants of these
lonely woods, where the enlivening song of the nightin-
gale and lark is never heard, but merely now and then
the monotonous whistle of some painted finch, or the
melancholy cooing of a turtle-dove.
Leaving this place, we passed along a low hill, re-
sembling a huge bank oi* dyke, from whence, to the left,
we had a view of a great number of low green hills, in
regular rows, not improperly compared by some of us
to a succession of long Atlantic waves, made stationary
by being converted into land. By a turn of the road, we
were unexpectedly treated with a view of the Indian
ocean, the estuary of the Knysna, and Mr. Rex's farm
at some distance beyond it. A steep hill and marshy
plain leads to the ford, which, from the state of the tide,
Was now impassable. Shortly before we made halt,
Brother Schmitt met with an accident, which might have
been even more serious than that which befell his wife.
Having left the wagon to fetch some remarkably beautiful
scarlet flowers, which had attracted our attention, on
venturing to enter it again without stopping the oxen,
the fore-wheel went over his right foot, and hurt It con-
siderably.
Two of our party were now rendered invalids. Yes-
terday was a day, when danger was expected. To-day
we had no fears. Thus we received a serious but merci-
ful warning, that in every situation, and whatever appear-
ances may be, we ought not to forget, that we are never
safe, but under the protecting care of our heavenly Father.
The sufferers, as well as our whole party, wQre thankful,
that these accidents had not been such as to prevent our
proceeding.
The out-spann place was in a romantic situation near
the ford ; on all sides enclosed by woody hills, the river
flowing at the foot of those to the east. Here Mr. Mel-
ville shot a bird, which proved to be a curious species of
king-fishen the wings and body beautifully marked in
20
154 JOURNAL OF A
black and white. The report of the gun produced one
of the finest echoes imaginable. A large fire being soon
kindled, Sister Schmitt, with her usual zeal to sacrifice
her own convenience to our comforts, which, at least,
under present circumstances, deserves once for all to be
noticed, insisted on our permitting her to cook supper for
us, as we had made no meal all day ; after which, she
retired to rest in the wagon. Brother Schmitt obtained
considerable relief by bathing his foot in the cold Knysna,
by which inflammation was prevented.
While we were at supper, and for some time during
the early part of the night, we were treated with a hor-
rid serenade by wolves on the opposite hill. These crea-
tures, as also tygers, are said to be numerous in this
woody part of the country. We w^ere not without fears
about the safety of the oxen, belonging to the two spanns
we had brought, and of those provided as relays by the
Veldcornet, according to order, and feeding loose near
our encampment.
20th. At one o'clock in the morning, we were roused
by our drivers, who were anxious to proceed, as we had
the Knysna and another river to cross, before we could
reach Mr. Rex's house, both being fordableonly at low
w^ater. Our tent was soon struck, and preparations made
for our departure, by the light of a large fire. Fording
the Knysna required skill in our drivers, for the river was
both deep and rapid, and the farmer, therefore, to w^hom
the cattle belonged, thought proper to drive them him-
self. Having also crossed the second river in safety, we
encamped on the opposite bank, between some low bills
and a grove of lofty trees, and got a dish of coffee. Our
two patients were both much better, for which we gave
thanks to God. The morning was clear, and the air re-
freshing. The views also toward the estuary of the
Knysna delighted us, whenever an opening in the woods
and high bushes permitted us to see them. At nine
o'clock, we arrived at Melkhout Kraal, and w^ere cordi-
ally welcomed by Mr. Rex, to whom Mr. Van Kervel,
with his usual kindness and consideration, had already
sent notice of our approach.
We soon perceived, that it was our worthy host's in-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 155
tention to detain us here as long as he could. Some rest
was indeed needful, and Sister Schmitt immediately
availed herself of the kind offer of Mr. Rex's lady to let
her servants assist us in various household concerns. Mr.
Rex found in Mr. Melville's company and conversation,
much pleasure and information respecting the measure-
ment of land, being himself fond of that science. I was
employed chiefly in writing, and a day spent quietly at
home seemed to suit the inclination of every one of our
party.
21st. The morning was foggy, and threatened rain, but
about nine it became clear. A ride to the mouth of the
Knysna had been proposed, but we delayed rather too
long ; for, by the time we arrived, the fog returned, and
by degrees covered the sea and the whole coast, while
the inland country remained clear. After our return, the
Veldcornet, who was directed to supply oxen to carry us
to Jackal's Kraal, came to consult with us about the
time of our departure. We now had much difficulty to
prevail upon our hospitable host to let us depart in the
morning.
After dinner, he showed us his gardens, which are at
some distance from the dwelling, towards the valley.
They are well stocked with a great variety of produce,
but no attention has been paid to ornament.
22d. Having at length convinced Mr. Rex, that it was
our duty no longer to indulge in the pleasure he pro-
posed to give us, by prolonging our stay, but, impressed
with great gratitude for the hospitable reception we had
met with at his house, to proceed on the business com-
mitted to us, he consented, and resolved himself to ac-
company us to Jackal's Kraal. His lady having fur-
nished Sister Schmitt with a supply of very needful
stores and refreshments, we left Melkhout Kraal at ten
o'clock, Mr. Rex and his son following us on horseback.
When they came up with us, Mr. Rex took a seat in
the wagon. The road was uneven, but presented
charming views of the surrounding country, and of the
woods, which partly crown the summits, and partly
adorn the sides of the hills. For some miles, the forest
extends from the range of high mountains, forming the
156 JOURNAL OF A
northern boundary of the bay, to the seacoast. This
region is called the Port. At a place in the wood, where
two roads met, Mr. Rex related, that here, during the
last invasion of the colony, a party of Caffres surprised
some boors with their wives, five of whom they murder-
ed in cool blood. One of the women begged hard for
the life of her husband. After some consultation, they
suddenly seized him and cut him in pieces. They car-
ried off one of the women, and kept her for four days.
They then sent a message to her husband, demanding
two hundred rix-dollars, as a ransom for his wife.
Fearing treachery, hie refused to treat with them. Mean-^
while she persisted in her entreaties to be released,
which at length they not only granted without ransom,
but gave her a safeguard to conduct her home, having
treated her w^ell during her stay.
The immense forest^ pf Plettenberg Bay are not with-
out inhabitants. Elephants, buffaloes, tygers, wolves,
and wild boars, having little to dread from that grand
destroyer, Man, find here shelter. They seem all to
have chosen their ground, some preferring the coast, and
others the mountains. Thus, if not followed into their
haunts, they are not often seen by the traveller, espe-
cially during the day, and w^e were never amused by
the gambols of tygers or leopards, near the road. A few
partridges were put up by Mr. Melville's dog, and one
or two of them shot; but passing through these woods,
nothing is heard of that cheerful chirping and singing of
birds, that busy hum of flying insects, with other symp-
toms of animated nature, which delight and inspirit the
traveller through the forests of England and the European
continent.
We crossed several brooks, running, all but one, from
the mountains towards the sea. This perverse stream
is called Samson's Revier, and taking its rise on some
high land near the coast, runs rapidly towards the hills,
where it is taken up by the Kierbooms Revier, and turn-
ed back. Its waters were remarkably clear and sweet,
and whether from this cause, or feeling some interest in
its capricious course and opposition to general rule, we
here replenished our stock of fresh water. On the banks
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 157
t^f one of the above-mentioned brooks, we found the larger
species of bukku, one of the most aromatic, medicinal
plants in the country, and justly esteemed for its healing
properties. Its leaves steeped in brandy or vinegar, and
the bottle placed in the heat of the sun, emit an unctious
juice, by which the fluid is rendered as thick as honey,
and applied particularly for the he;^Iing of contusions,
sores, and all external complaints. The Hottentots
also use it for inward hurts, by mixing a spoonful of it with
waroi i^yater. Its leaves are lancet-shaped and serrated.
After leaving the woods, we passed oyer an uninterest-
ing, barren country, and were rather alarmed by per-
ceiving, what the height of the trees had hidden from
our view, that thick black clouds, covering the western
horizon, were fast following us, thunder muttering at a
distance. In a short time, a violent wind arose, which
filled the air with clouds of dust. The backs of the oxen
and the wagons were covered with it. Soon after it be-
gan to lighten, thunder, and rain, and almpst made us
fear, that we should be obliged to give up the thoughts of
visiting Jackal's Kraal to-day, and be forced to seek
shelter. We persevered, however, and by the tirqe we
had reached the heights, which overlook the vale bear-
ing this name, the rain ceased. The sudden chetnge in
the appearance of the country afforded us much pleasure.
From an insipid flat, it swelled into hills, with woody
glens sloping down towards the vale. As it was now too
late to examine the spot proposed for an establishment,
a consultation was held ; the result of which was, that
we would not proceed to the next farm, but, to save
time, descend with our wagons into the vale, and there
encamp for the night, though the weather threatened to
be rather boisterous, and the appearance of the situation
below was wild, resembling a haunt of beasts of prey
in undisputed possession.
Mr. Rex offered to accompany us down the hill, but
having business at a farm, several miles from hence,
much as we delighted in his company, and profited hy
his conversation, we could not accept of a service, which
would have put him to much inconvenience. Here,
therefore^,, though with sensations of regret, we took
iSft JOURNAL OP A
leave of our worthy and generous conductor. The
Veldcornet, Mr. Van Huyste) n, accompanied us into the
valley.
Previous to our arrival at Melkhout Kraal, Mr. Rex
iad made application to Government for the possession
of Jackal's Kraal. Though no answer had been return-
ed, I should, as in other instances, have considered this
circumstance as a sufficient bar against occupation on
our part, not wishing in the smallest degree to interfere
with the plans of any individual in the colony, in fixing
upon a tract of land for a settlement of the Brethren's
Mission. But Mr. Rex generously declared, that he not
only gladly quitted all claim to Jackal's Kraal, where
he had intended only to put up a small cottage, as a
sheltering place in the hunting season, but rejoiced in the
hopes of seeing the land cultivated, and a settlement of
Christian Hottentots formed in his neighbourhood. This
declaration was now solemnly repeated, and made us de-
termine to examine the situation, with a view to a mis-
sionary establishment.
The descent into the vale was not too steep, but find-
ing no path, we pulled through the long grass and bush-
es, over stony or marshy ground, with some difficulty and
uncertainty, till having reached a spot near a grove of
tall trees, rising out of thick under-wood, we pitched our
tent on a dry place, surrounded with high bushes, which
served us for fuel. Here we made two large fires, both
for culinary purposes, and to frighten away any wild
beasts which might be disposed to visit us during the
night, this place having been reported to be the haunt of
a great number of ferocious animals. But, as usually \€
the case, the love of frightful tales had probably created
monsters in the reporter's imagination, for we neither
saw nor heard any thing to give notice of their presence,
and our cattle walked about the bushes, picking their
food, without molestation. Yet as caution was necessa-
ry in a place unknown, and to appearance admirably
suited to be a dwelling-place for wild creatures, we men
went in a body, while it was yet light, to view the spot
where formerly the old Hottentot captain Jackal, froni
^wbom the place derives its name, had his dwelling. Siff-
VISIT TO SOtJTtt AFRICA, 159^
ter Schmitt and the Hottentots remained in the camp^
and prepared supper- The captain's house was built
upon a rising ground on the south side of the valley,
probably of very perishable materials, for, besides a few
broken fragments, resembling the remnants of uprights
or rafters, nothing was to be seen, but some traces of a
square field or ga,rden.
Dark clouds hovering about the horizon, seemed to
threaten a rainy night. It lightened much, the wind
rose, and some rain fell, but besides a little annoyance
from the flapping about of the curtains of our tent, which
we had not sufficiently secured against the wind, we
gpent a quiet night in this solitary wilderness, under the
protection of our Almighty Preserver, and rose early in
the morning to praise Him for His mercies, and for Mie
return of fine weather, so desirable and needful for our
present undertaking.
23d. We commenced our survey according to a plan
agreed on last night. Brother Schmitt and Stein went
with me to captain Jackal's hill. From hence we pro-
ceeded to a narrow kloof out of which the rivulet flows*
On leaving the kloof, it buries itself under an assemblage
of stones, from which, at about an hundred yards dis-
tance, it emerges in sufficient force, even in this dry sea-
son, to supply a mill. A broad path, made by wood-
cutters, afforded a convenient passage into the kloof.
The eastern sun shone with great brightness into it,
gilding the banks on both sides. They rise steep to a
considerable height, and are clothed with a romantic
wood of every species of tree growing in the country,
innumerable flowering plants and shrubs covering the
ground. Here and there masses of rock peep through
the surrounding foliage. The rivulet rushes rapidly
through the shady grove, over a stony bed, and we fol-
lowed its course to a place where it forms a deep pool
under a perpendicular rock. From the accidental posi-
tion of the broken fragments of stone, piled up in order
at its foot, this rock might, at some distance, be taken for
a mass of basaltes. The water filled the whole space,
and obliged us to ascend the hill. Having, however,
satisfied ourselves as to the supply of water to be gained
160 JOURNAL OF A
from the rivulet, we returned to the tent, much pleased
with the discoveries we had made. We made a favour-
able report of them at an excellent breakfast, for which,,
through Mr. Rex's goodness, we had been provided with
every requisite, sweet milk, fresh butter, and good
wheaten bread, and a partridge, shot by Mr. Melville.
On reading the portions of scripture appointed for
this day, rendered remarkable for being the first day on
which we could execute part of the commission given to
us, we were excited to fervent prayer, that the glory of
the Lord might till this place also, if it be His gracious
will, that here a settlement should be formed for the ga-
thering together of a congregation of believers from
among the Hottentot nation. To us it appeared in va-
rious respects an eligible situation, though rejected by
Dr. Van der Kemp, as not sufficiently large, and by our
Hottentots, as not possessing sweet grass. There is land
enough for a congregation of about five hundred per-
sons, and probably the soil might be so much improved,
as to produce every necessary article of subsistence,
though some place of change, at certain seasons of the
year, would be required for the cattle. Conveyance
from the Cape is rendered easy, by ships sailing to Plet-
tenberg Bay.
After breakfast, the Veldcornet returned to us with
Mr. P. a farmer living at the entrance of the vale, at whose
house he had taken up his night's lodging ; and we set
out, to make further inquiries into the nature of the soil,
and other properties of the unoccupied land. Our horses
were very lame, and stumbled grievously among the
rushes and brushwood, through which we had to pass.
We ascended the hill by a gulley, which appeared to us
like the narrow bed of a water-course, but, by the re-
port of the Veldcornet, was made by wild boars. Part
of the ascent has good land, some fit for corn, and
some for pasture, but the flat summit, which stretches
far away towards the sea, is unfruitful. We passed along
the edge of the hill, the farmer describing e\ery part of
the vale in view, which he pronounced to be in many
places fit for cultivation, especially for gardens and corn,
the kloofs descending on the opposite side being well
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 161
stored with wood, useful both for building and fuel. We
now directed our course towards Mr. P.'s farm.
From an opposite kloof, a rivulet furnishes a constant
supply of water, sufficient to irrigate his garden, and
forming a natural division between the two properties.
From the heights above the farm, there is a fine view of
Plettenberg Bay, the western point of which is marked
by a promontory and small island, the resort of a vast
number of seals; and the eastern, by a high, conical
hill, called the Grenadier's cap. Several lower peaks
appear to rise at its foot. We noticed here a gigantic
species of a plant, from its singular form very properly
called the chandelier. The specimen I obtained had
twenty shoots, proceeding, in a direction nearly horizon-
tal, from its centre, each a foot long, with a beautiful
scarlet flower at its point. Its root is a bulb. A smaller
species is common all over the waste.
Having alighted, we walked to the house, along a gul-
ley filled with fragments of a soft iron-stone, porous, and
of various colours, brought off the hills by torrents.
Some of it was flaky, full of larger or smaller cavities,
filled with fine yellow ochre. Sand-stone and quartz lie,
as usual, in abundance upon the surface of the ground.
Mr. P. and his old mother received us with civility, and
set before us what their house afforded, teidi-water^ bread
and butter, and preserved quinces of excellent flavoun
The hills opposite the farm are intersected by woody
kloofs, and rendered picturesque by ledges of gray rock,
with intermediate bushes. We were informed, that they
swarm with apes and baboons, as likewise with tygers,
wolves, and other wild animals; and though the latter
seldom approach the dwellings, yet the cries of the poor
antelopes and other game, seized and worried by them
among the rocks and woods, are frequently heard below.
Mr. P. walked with us into the garden, which is large
and plentifully stocked with all "kinds of fruits, apples,
Eears, peaches, quinces, oranges, and lemons, which he
as some trouble to guard against the monkey tribes in-
festing the neighbouring woods.
When we first met, Mr. P. seemed shy and cautious,
made the worst of every thing relating to Jackal's Kraal,
21
162 JOURNAL OF A
that we might consider it as unfit for a missionary star
tion; but hy degrees, he softened, and was ready to give !
every encouragement, hoping, that if a settlement was
made, Hottentots would come into the country, and hands
be obtained to assist in the farms. At present, the (ew
Hottentot inhabitants are chieflj employed in cutting and
preparing timber. Hitherto, Mr. P. has used the kraal
for pasture-ground, as being an uninhabited spot, and as
he would not wish to lose that convenience, he may be
forgiven for viewing intruders with some suspicion. He
showed his good sense and candour in so soon forsaking
selfish views and prejudices. Men who have lived all
their hfetime in so sequestered a state, remote from society,
consider, of course, their own affairs as of the first con-
sequence, to which they have been accustomed to sacri-
fice every thing within their reach, not having discernment
sufficient to judge of the relative importance of human
concerns. Religion is generally quite out of the question,
and its propagation considered as a secondary, if not
wholly unnecessary business.
The Veldcornet accompanied us through the valley to
our little camp. On our way, we observed much good
land, fit for gardens and pasture. A vast quantity of
palmite covers the banks of the rivulet, which is always
considered as a sign of good and rich soil, but it is very
difficult to eradicate, having a strong tap-root, running
deep into the marshy ground. Brother Stein, who had
walked forward, called to us to observe a large bird of
prey he had driven off a carcass, which, on coming up,
we found to be that of a young kid, just killed, and its
entrails torn out. The bird was not much intimidated,
for he alighted at a short distance, from whence he ob-
served us undismayed, ready to return to his prey ; and
as we had neither the means, nor the right to prevent it,
we left him to reap the benefit of his acquisition. Upon
one of the bushy eminences to the right, I found the small
aloe still in bloom, three weeks after they had left off
showing any flowers at Groenekloof After our return
to the camp, Mr. Melville and I continued our ride into
the kloof, which we had visited this morning, and as the
VlSl't TO SOUTH APRldA* 1(53
^un was how at its height, the appearance of the wood^
water, and rocks, was extremely beautiful.
Sister Schmitt meanwhile had not been idle, but after
iVriting a letter, went with the Hottentots to the western
side of the valley, and discoverefd, among the bushes,
several pools of clear water, which she now advised us
to visit. This was done, arid we were convinced, that
there is water sufficient for every purpose, and in every
season, to serve a town of four or five hundred inhabit-
ants.
We now took leave of JackaPs Krall, with thanks to
the landdrost, for having made us acquainted, both with
Mr. Rex, and with a situation not unworthy of consi-
deration in the choice of a missionary settlement in this
colony, notwithstanding the objections raised by our
Hottentots, who ever prefer the rearing and tending of
cattle, to labour in the field, and the rearing of crops.
CHAPTER IX.
Deparlure from JackaPs KraaL View of Plettenberg J^ay.
Restless night. Passing over the Paerdekop Mountain
into the Lange Kloof Wild Scenery. Dangerous road.
Delay at fClip Revier. Receipt of letters from Ensrland.
Enter the Lange Kloof farms of Well-gelegen^ Ungelegen^
ahd Kliphuebel. Mr. Fereira^s rencontre with a tyger.
Our worthy friend, Mr. Rex, in proposing to detain us
some days longer at his house, had informed us, that we
might gain time by not returning to Mr. Zaayman's, and
going over the Duivel's kop into the Lange Kloof, but
by crossing the niountains by the Paerdekop, which, in a
fine season, like the present, might be easily effected.
We resolved, therefore, to take his advice, and proceed
towards the Paerdekop. After reaching the top of the
western boundary of Jackal's Kraal, our road lay over a
flat, dismal country, to the Veldcornet's house, seen
through an opening between low hills. On the road, a
slave, attempting to get on the box^ without stopping the
i64 JaiTKNAL OF A
wagon, fell, and the fore-wheel passing over part of bis
leg, hurt him severely. Bukku brandy being repeated-
ly applied by Brother Stein, the pain was soon relieved,
and inflammation prevented.
Mr. Melville had gone in quest of game, and shot two
partridges, which, though in itself of not much impor-
tance, proved, under present circumstances, a most ac-
ceptable gift, our stock of fresh provisions being consum-
ed. The Veldcornet's house is pleasantly situated at the
meeting of three valleys, and notice being given of our
arrival, we were kindly received, and treated w^ith a
well-dressed plain dinner. Mrs. Van Huysteyn after-
wards presented Sister Schmitt with two cocks, a large
square bottle of wild honey, and some other useful arti-
cles, and her husband accompanied us for some miles.
His father, a venerable old Dutch gentleman, had been
at Zeyst in Holland, and seemed pleased to see friends
belonging to the same fraternity.
Having forded the Wittedrift, a brook running into
the Kierbooms Revier, we began to ascend the heights^
from which we had a full view of its course, and of
Plettenberg Bay. The vessel, regularly employed to
convey timber to the Cape, lay at anchor not far from
the shore. The bay, however, being exposed to the
southeast, from whence the wind generally blows with
violence, makes it unsafe for any vessel to He in it longer
than necessity requires: otherwise, it affords great con-
venience to the inhabitants, to have communication with
the Cape by water. The same advantage would like-
wise attend the possession of Jackal's KraaL
While Mr. Melville was vainly following .one of those
cunning birds, the wild peacock, a bluebock, one of the
smallest antelopes, started up, not far fiom the road.
The Hottentots could not resist the temptation, but both
our own people and the guides and drivers left the wa-
gons, and, with two dogs, set off full speed in pursuit.
As this animal is not as swift as others of the same kind,
he may be run down in the open field by a swift-footed
Hottentot; and now, but for his dexterous turnings and
doublings, would have been taken, had he not reached a
wood, and thus narrowly escaped. It was yery amusing
VISIT TO SOUTH APRICAi, 165
to US to see the chase, and the disappointed looks of the
returning huntsmen. The fur of the bluebock is re-
markably fine; brown, changing with a blueish gray.
It was quite dark before we arrived at a farm, the pos-
sessor of which, after some hesitation, permitted us to
pitch our tent and unyoke our oxen in the field before
his house. We kindled a fire, and after a supper, con-
sisting of coffee, bread and honey, lay down to rest. We
w^ere, however, prevented going to sleep till near two
o'clock in the morning, by a drunken Hottentot, whom
neither the exhortations of Brother Schmitt, nor the more
forcible means used by Brother Stein, who thrust him
out of a Hottentot house, where, in quarrelling and fight-
ing with a woman, he had bitten a piece out of her arm,
could bring to reason.
24th. During the night, black clouds had overspread
the heavens, but providentially dispersed at sunrise, and
the morning proved fine. Had it turned to rain, we
durst not have ventured to proceed, and to encounter the
passage across the mountains. The farmer seemed last
night not much disposed to assist us; but Sister Schmitt
had this morning got into favour both with him and his
wife, and procured a supply of bread, milk, and cab-
bages. After breakfast we set out, and soon entered
upon roads not easily described, so as to give to English-
men an adequate idea of them. How those African wa-
gons can bear such thumping, bouncing, twisting, and
screwing between rocks, and large masses of broken
stones, irregularly piled upon each other, is almost be-
yond belief. But the Creator has mercifully provided
for the wants of men in all countries. Here grows that
valuable wood called Eysterhout, or ironwood, so hard,
and likewise so tough, that an axle-tree made of it will
bear more than an iron one of twice its thickness.
The views from the heights are most singular. I wisK
I were able to paint them, so as to present a true picture
to my reader's imagination. Along tha horizon to the
east and south-east, runs the range of high mountains,
enclosing the Lange Kloof, and exhibiting a rugged out-
line, with many peaks. Before them are ranges of
lower hills, of which^ from one point, we counted no
166 ^^OURNAL OF A
less than five, running parallel to each other, attd tn-^
tersected vertically by numberless kloofs, likewise iri
parallel lines, so as to give to the whole the appearance
of division by art. These kloofs are partly naked, partly
filled with bushes, or lined on each side with rocks. To
the right of the road, the slope of the hill, sinking into a
deep glen beneath, grew more and more steep, as we
proceeded, and in some places to that degree, that we
began to give credit to the stories of wagons and oxen
rolling down altogether, and being seen no more. A
misfortune of this kind is said to have happened to a
wagon in General Dundas's retinue, when going over
the Duivilskop.
In about two hours, we reached the Pa^rdekop
(Horse's Head) mountain, over the very summit of which
we had to pass. Its steepness in all directions renders
it impossible to carry the road round its sides. Our ex-
hausted oxen w^ere hardly able to drag the wagons along^
and we were obliged again to have recourse to a double
spann. The sand-stone rock, forming the mass of the
mountain, appears lying in strata nearly perpendicular,
besides which, a vast number of large loose fragments
are strewed upon its surface. Many of them are clothed
with a lichen of a bright vermilion colour. Quartz lies
in veins, or in detached pieces. The soil produces a
variety of bushes, flowering shrubs and aloes, between
the stones. With the help of our men, bearing the wa-
gon up on either side, as the slope of the road required,
and suffering our cattle to rest every two or three
minutes, we at length surmounted every difficulty, and
got safely across this dreaded mountain, to an out-spann
placi^ in a dreary wilderness. After an hour's rest, we
set out again, and our groom, Leonhard, having pointed
out a footpath, by which we might shorten our road.
Brother and Sister Schmitt and I ventured upon it. It
led us through a rocky glen, into which a stone, accidental-
ly rolling down from the heights above, produced such a
grand effect, that w^e amused ourselves for some time
with great zeal, in repeating the experiment.
Meeting an old gray-headed Hottentot, with a long
beard, dressed only in a kaross and skin apron, we en-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 167
tered into conversation with him. I presented him with
0, (ew doppelgens, (penny pieces.) He thanked me, and
observed, that of all things in the world he loved money
best. Brother Schmitt asked him, whether he did not
love God better, to which he rephed, that he knew no-
thing of him. This gave the missionary an opportunity
of declaring to him the love of God to man, and to di-
rect the poor old man to Jesus, who had loved him unto
death, and deserved to be loved above every thing in
earth and heaven. The Hottentot listened with atten-
tion and surprise, and promised to think on that which
he had now heard, and pray to God to give him grace
to understand it..
After a tedious and troublesome walk, we arrived at
a kraal, near a valley, where an aged Hottentot lived,
W4th two slaves. The kraal consisted of a circular build-
ing of reeds and rushes, covered with grass, a garden
near the brook, and a small enclosure for cattle. Two
shaggy dogs announced our arrival with loud barking,
which brought out the old man, accompanied, to our
comfort, by Leonhard, who had reached the place be-
fore us, and turned our horses into the field to graze.
The man seemed much pleased with our visit, and not
well fitted for a hermit. On leaving him, we descended
into the valley, crossed the brook, and mounted a steep
hill,^from which, in a short time, we discovered our wa-
gons coming down the woody glen. They followed us
up the hill, which proved one of the longest ascents and
heaviest roads in the whole journey. Here I found the
first crystals of quartz, diminutive indeed, but clear,
in veins and fissures of sand-stone, and, in general, more
disposition to crystallization in the quartz, than I had
ever met with before in this country. Had w^e foot-pas-
sengers not to go so far forward up the hill, before the
w agons arrived at the bottom, it was the boor's intention
to have spent the night in the valley.
After gaining the summit, we passed through a barren
heath, and arrived long after sunset at a place called
Kloetes Kraal. Here was neither house, nor Hotten-
tot's hut ; but some pieces of timber, the remnants of an
old habitation, lying on the ground, enabled us to kindle
]68 JOURNAL OF A
two large fires. I had been troubled with headach
during the latter part of our journey, and as soon as
my mattress could be got ready, lay down in the wagon
to rest. While supper was cooking, which for some
days was our only meal. Sister Schmitt, knowing that I
generally find rehef in strong coffee, but should have re-^
fused giving her additional trouble, prepared it unob-
served, and unexpectedly brought me a basin of it into the
tent, before I ascended into my dormitory. Services so
generous, and unasked for, deserve to be recorded with
gratitude; nor is this the first time, that I have ex-
perienced the exquisite delight of indulging a grateful
sense of the disinterested and unsolicited services of my
South African Brethren and friends, whose unmerited
kindness towards me on every occasion, will ever remain
deeply impressed upon my heart.
The situation of our encampment was dreary in the
extreme, high and bleak, surrounded with low eminences,
which shut ©ut the view of the mountains, not a tree in
sight, and far distant from the dwellings of men. During
the night, which was very dark, I was roused from sleep,
by perceiving some odd motion of the wagon. I sat up,
and for a moment felt afraid, that some wild beast had
approached our camp, when one of the wheels seemed
'fairly lifted off the ground by some external force. Being
so closely shut in, that I could not discover the cause, I
called to the Hottentots, who were sleeping round the
fire, to come to my assistance, and my shouts alarmed
the whole party. It was soon found, that the innocent
author of this disturbance was one of our horses, who,
having returned from the place, where he had been sent
to feed, was amusing himself by scrubbing his back
against the wheel. He was, of course, driven away, but
soon returned to my great annoyance, till my patience
being exhausted, I got up, and sent him off to some dis-
tance. Notwithstanding my rest had been thus broken,
when the morning dawned, I rose with the rest of the
company, in perfect health.
We now found that our sociable friend from the round
kraal had followed the wagons, and arrived with our
Hottentots, after we had retired to rest. He had thufe
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA* 169
gained a good deal of amusement, and, we hope, some
useful information and instruction, besides partaking of
their supper and breakfast. We were at least six miles
from his hermitage, and our arrival was to him, no
doubt, an event of much importance.
25th. The boor, who brought us thus far, had behaved
with so much reserve, and had such a forbidding counte-
nance, that we had set him down for a very sulky fel-
low ; but we now found ourselves so much at his mercy
in this wilderness, where we might have waited long
enough for a relay of oxen, that we resolved to try his
temper, and whether he had good nature enough left, to
agree to put us forward another "skoff," or day's jour-
ney. Brother Schmitt conducted the negotiation, and
having represented our case, found him much more plia-
ble than expected ; and surely one ought not always to
judge of a man's heart by the cut of his face* After some
silent consultation with his own feelings, he observed,
that he could not be satisfied, to leave us in this desert,
but, though his oxen were tired, he would bring us to
Klip Revier, on Kierbooms Revier, being the first farm
in the Lange Kloof For this exertion of good^will, he
was treated with coffee and brandy, and, at the end of
the journey, with a good meal, and a Gnadenthal knife.
We set out after breakfast, and walked along a steep,
broken ridge of barren hills, while the wagons took the
road lower down. Wild boars having been seen this morn-
ing on a neighbouring hill, Marcus was sent with a rifle
gun to try to get some venison,but returned without having
discovered their retreat. In fact, we could not spare any
of our people, as every assistance was wanted to keep
the wagons from oversetting. We had now arrived
among kloofs and low hills, each of which, however,
would have obtained the name of mountain in the midland
counties of England. They are uniformly very steep,
and the ravines dividing them, full of huge stones, rocks,
and bushes. One must see such a wild and truly horrid
region as we passed through, to have any conception of
it. It is in vain to attempt to describe it. The weather
had appeared very unpromising in the morning, but
cleared up, though the sun did not break forth till
170 JOUliNAL OF A
late in the day, which kept us and our cattle cool. We
were indeed highly favoured in venturing to make the
passage over the Paerdekop into the Lange Kloof. Had
it rained, we might have been detained among the moun-
tains many days, as is the fate of many a traveller. The
people belonging to a wagon we met on the road, in-
formed us that they had been three days on the journey,
and had the misfortune twice to overset.
After a tedious, difficult, and, I may say, dangerous
passage over many a hill and glen, we made one hour's
out-spann in a deep valley enclosed on all sides by steep
banks, and got a luncheon of bread and honey. Brother
Stein mounted a rock, unobserved, and played on his
flute the tune of that hymn, " JVow let us praise the hord^^
while we all felt disposed to join with heart and voices;
for we had indeed cause to praise the Lord for bringing
us thus far in safety. Our musician afterwards regaled
the English ears among us, with " God save great George
our King^^^ which we may venture to say has never yet
been heard in this part of his Majesty's dominions. 1 re-
mained in the wagon, writing myjournal.
After our refreshment, w^e entered with renewed cou-
rage upon our toilsome journey, of which, indeed, the
poor oxen had more cause to complain than we. Sixteen
drew the heavy, and twelve the light wagon. We had
our full complement of drivers and leaders, who with
our own Hottentots found sufficient employ. Let no one
ever hereafter complain of the passage of Hottentot-Hol-
land's Kloof, or the Haue Hoek near Gnadenthal, who
has passed over these roads, or rather plunged up and
down these precipices. Barren as these mountains in
general appear, they yet afford a rich harvest for the
botanist, and we found several curious plants, unknown
to our best botanist, Mr. Melville. In some places, the
rugged sides of the hills are clothed with aloes, and other
larger plants, and as we proceeded, we saw, on many
hills, the so-called Wageboom growing dispersed, re-
sembling a planted orchard, the trees' standing fifteen
or twenty paces asunder. Of wild creatures, we saw
only a few rehbock antelopes, but being excessively shy,
out huntsmen Schmitt and Melville rode or ran after
them in vain. Elephants, wild boars, wolves, and tygers-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. ITl
as likewise baboons, haunt these desolate regions, the
first however, only where thej find wood and water.
One of our young drivers related to his companion,
that at the round kraal, which we visited yesterday, he
"watched a tyger for several nights successively, climbing
up the poles of the hen-roost. This is a platform made
of branches of trees covered with bushes or grass, sup-
ported by four or more uprights, about ten or twelve feet
high, to which the cocks and hens fly, about sunset, and
there roost during the night, out of the reach of mause^
hunde, foxes, and other destructive animals. Nor can ty-
gers, or wild cats, well scramble up a smooth pole, with
an overhanging superstructure. The tyger had succeeded
in seizing one or two chickens, near the edge of the roost,
and the Hottentot was determined to stop his thieving.
He made two small holes in the side of the Kraal, one
for the muzzle of his gun, the other for his eye, behind
which he lay in ambush. The tyger soon came, and
clasping one of the poles with his claw^s, seemed contri-
ving how best to mount to the platform. At that mo-
ment the lad fired, and the animal fell, but uttered so
loud a roar, that, thinking him yet alive, and likely, in
his fury, to make an attack upon the kraal, he first let
out his dog. The dog soon put an end to the tyger's
life, as he had received the shot through his body.
About five o'clock, w^e arrived at Klip Revier, and
w^ere welcomed by a friendly farmer of the name of
Barkhuis, but who had it not in his power to put us for-
ward to-day. We therefore sent a message to the Veld*
cornet, to have <oxen ready for us to-morrow at the next
station. Thither our host proposed to bring us, but not
before noon. As the orders of the landdrost to the
Veldcornets were given, under the supposition, that we
should cross the mountains by Mr. Zaayman's, and over
the Duivelskop, it was our own fault that we did not
meet with relays on this road. We thus lost more in
time than we gained in distance. Having pitched our
tent in the field near the house, and given our host a good
supper, we enjoyed a comfortable night's rest.
26th. We breakfasted in the house with the family,
and had the pleasure of treating them with a dish of ge-
172 JOURNAL OF A
nuine and welUmade coffee. They are poor, and have
many children, whom they find it difficult to maintain.
Wherever we found this to be the case, far from wishing
to lessen their stock of provisions, by our requisitions, we
gave them what we could afford, out of the supplies we
had brought with us, or purchased from richer boors.
But though they were poor, Mr. and Mrs- Barkhuis
treated us in return ; and sweeter grapes and richer
milk, we had no where tasted, since we left Gnadenthal.
Some friends of our host were here, and dined with us.
Their conversation turned upon that never-failing sub-
ject of complaint against the English Government, the
new taxes, and the measuring and valuing of the lands.
About two o'clock, we left Klip Revier, and set out for
Kierbooms Revier, belonging to the mother of our host,
where we expected to procure relays. The road was
very uneven, in many places steep and rocky, and having
our host's son, a huge lad of seventeen, for our driver,
his giddiness and inattention caused us considerable
alarm. In about three hours, we arrived at the above-
mentioned place, where we not only found no oxen, but
po tidings of the resdt of our message to the Veldcor-
net. Here, therefore, we were again detained, with a
family apparently not well pleased with our visit. An
old lady, of extraordinary bulk, and determined counte-
nance, occupied one corner of the room, and not a smile
or inviting word bid us welcome. After staring some
time at one another, the usual laconic address was utter-
ed ; " Sit" was the word, and we sat down. " Tea-wa-
ter" was next offered, and we heard afterwards that we
were expected to sup with the family, but no invitation
being given, we thought best to bid them good night, and
retreat into our tent.
27th. We were amused this morning by all manner of
contradictory accounts, given by a half-drunken dragoon,
as to his having seen a packet of letters from England
at the Veldcornet's house, addressed to me. It seemed
ahnost incredible, but, to my very great satisfaction,
proved a true tale, for the packet was delivered to me
in the afternoon by a dragoon. It contained letters from
my family of November, and December, and fromfriend^
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 173
in London ; and had been forwarded to me by the kind-
ness of Mr. Van Kervel. The receipt of this welcome
present, in this dreary region, contributed much to les-
sen the regret we felt at meeting again with so unplea-
sant a detention. We had sent a boy on horseback to
the Veldcornet, to obtain information respecting the re-
lays, in consequence of which, that gentleman arrived
in the afternoon. He had provided the necessary relays,
but having ordered them, some days ago, on the road to-
wards the Duivelskop, they w^ere now countermanded,
and directed hither* Meanwhile Sister Schmitt had got
into favour with the old lady and her daughters, who
now insisted upon taking our meals with them, Mr.
Melville and I were employed during the day in draw-
ing and writing, and some of us took a walk into the
rocky glen, out of which the Kierbooms Revier flows, in
a deep bottom. The rocks on each side appear in stra-
ta of considerable breadth, with bushes interspersed.
They are of sand-stone, coloured by iron, with much
quartz. But the most remarkable feature of the coun-
try, are the hills to the eastward, exhibiting, as it were,
a huge bank, with an even ridge, divided downwards in
parallel lines by narrow kloofs. At the bottom of each
kloof lies a round hillock, formed, to all appearance, by
earth and stones washed down out of the kloof. This
singular formation of whole ranges of hills in this part of
Africa, is a geological phenomenon, perhaps more easily
explained than some others ; but what with their barren-
ness and their regularity, they are unpleasant objects to
the eye of a lover of the picturesque.
In the evening, Mrs. Barkhuis proposed that Brother
Schmitt should deliver a discourse to the family, the
Hottentots and slaves in her service being admitted.
This was done; about thirty persons were present, and
we hope that the Lord, who has promised that His
'' word shall not return void, but accomplish the thincr
whereunto it is sent,'' will have caused some of the seeS
sow^n to have fallen into ground prepared by His Spirit
to receive it, so as to bring forth fruit. The Hottentots
and slaves were particularly attentive, and expressed af-
terwards their thanks \q Brother Schmitt, and their
174 JOURNAL OF A
earnest wish, that, in this neighbourhood, a settlement
might be formed, where they might hear the word of
God. From our own Hottentots they heard much of
Gnadenthal, and of the benefits enjoyed by their coun-
trymen living in our settlements, and, no doubt, profited
by the unadorned and simple account given them of the
way of salvation by faith in Jesus.
28th. Being now in high favour with the old lady, she
invited us to an early breakfast, after which we set out,
passing over rough roads, into the narrower part of the
Lange Kloof, properly so called, being a vale of perhaps
a hundred miles in length, enclosed by mountains of dif-
ferent heights. On entering upon it, we felt not a little
disappointed. We were no longer amused with a mag-
nificent show of peaks, table-mountains, or round tops in
succession, but saw a long ridge of comparatively low
hills, divided, as above described, by narrow, parallel
kloofs, without wood or water, skirting a dull, uncultiva-
ted vale. On one of the hills we descried a company of
baboons. They first seemed to wait our approach, but
soon retreated in haste towards the summit. In vain we
looked for the rich country and pleasant farms described
by some travellers, and after passing some mean-looking
houses, halted on the waste.
In the afternoon, we arrived at a farm called Welgele-
gen^ where we were received with civility, and got a fresh
relay of oxen. The region of sand-stone, iron, and
quartz, continued, but tlie country began to look better,
and some beautiful groups of high mountains were seen,
in dilFerent directions. It was dark before we reached
another farm called Ungelegen^ where not having any
choice, we pitched our tent, by the faint light of some
fires on the neighbouring hills, on the werft or yard,
which was little better than a dunghill. Before we lay
down to rest, it began to lighten and thunder, and
during the night, some squalls, with showers, disturbed
our rest.
29th. We were glad, when the day dawned, to quit
this unclean spot. The clouds were still hovering on
the mountains, but we found ourselves in a more inte-
resting country, and exery now and then a charming
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 175
prospect opened. After about an hour's ride, we saw
wagons and horsemen coming to meet us. They were a
transport of Hottentot Soldiers with some dragoons, re-
turning from the interior. Among the former, two or
three belonged to our people, and had some conversa-
tion with Brother Schmitt. The officers followed in a
horse-wagon.
This forenoon Mr. Melville found some employment
for his gun, but owing to a dog, belonging to the driver,
who had followed the wagons, could not succeed. This
animal, as soon as he saw any game, made off full speed
towards them. Thus, they could never be brought with-
in shot.
Soon after parting with the military, we met the
Veldcornet, Stephen Fereira, and his son on horseback,
following the soldiers. He informed us that relays were
provided at his farm, Kliphubel, where we arrived about
noon, but did not meet with a very gracious reception.
No notice was taken of us, and Mrs. Fereira suffered
Sister Schmitt to go about seeking water and milk for
breakfast, wherever she could find it, without offering
her the least assistance. The wind was very cold, and
we endeavoured to screen ourselves behind the stump
of an old tree, in the middle of the yard. At length our
hostess relented, and sent word, that we might come and
take our tea in the house. She even set before us a
dish of excellent rehbock-venison. Her son, an intelli-
gent young man, with whom I had much conversation
after dinner, gave me an interesting account of his fa-
ther's history. The Fereira's are of Portuguese origin.
His great grandfather (or one above him, 1 forget
which) was the only person saved from a Portuguese
ship, which foundered at sea, off the Cape. He got
upon a plank, which supported him for three days, and
rowing with his hands in a direction in which he ex-
pected to find land, by God's mercy, he succeeded, and
reached the Cape shore, though nearly exhausted, and
perishing with hunger. Here, by industry, he and his
successors raised themselves into creditable situations.
Of his father, a singular instance of courage and good
fortune is told. A large tyger having long infested his
176 JOURNAL OF A
premises and the neighbourhood, and killed many sheep
belonging to him and other boors, a party assembled
to endeavour to destroy the monster. His haunt being
discovered, Mr. Fereira vras foremost in the attack,
when the tyger instantly made a spring at him, as he sat
on horseback, the rest of the party not having come up,
and only one slave being with him. The horse taking
fright, ran off with his rider, who was but slightly
wounded. The tyger was meanwhile attacked by all
the dogs, and a furious contest ensued. Mr. Fereira, not
intimidated, as soon as he could again command his
horse, returned to the charge, and encouraged the dogs
by the usual cry of Zaza, Zaza. The enraged animal,
hearing this cry, quitted the dogs, and flew a second time
at Mr. Fereira's head, when with one gripe he tore off
his scalp, and threw him upon the ground, where he was
proceeding, with teeth and claws, to put an end to his
existence. The faithful slave, seeing his master in such
imminent danger, ran to his assistance, and attempted to
stab the tyger with a knife. The infuriated beast, how-
ever, w^as too quick for him, seized his hand with his
teeth, and flung him upon his master, doing his best to
kill them both, which, by his strength and swiftness of
motion, he probably would have accomplished, had not
the other huntsmen, coming up, shot him through the
heart, and thus delivered the sufferers. Though Mr.
Fereira was dreadfully hurt, and his life for some time
despaired of, he completely recovered.
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 177
CHAPTER X-
Wagebooms Revier. Oversetting of the baggage-wagon.
^rather Stein much hurt. Difficulty of procuring oxen.
Ellatidsfonteyn. Kromm Revier. Jagersbosch. Account
of a young tyger killed. Objections to a settlement near a
high-road, farms deserted on account of taxation. De-
scription of m encampment at Essenbosch. Account of
the appearance and dwelling of the lady of the manor.
Soekow. Ungracioiis reception at a Veldcornefs house.
His apology. Remarks on the fruits of conversion to
Christianity. Winterhoeks mountains.
At one o'clock, we left Kliphubel. Our road lay along
the Wagebooms Revier, which takes its name from the
quantity of Wageboom, loosely covering the hills on each
side. About sunset, we arrived at a farm, bearing the
same name, and had some thoughts of taking up our
abode here for the night; but hearing that the roads
were good, and being impatient to proceed, we went
forward, and arrived at another farm, called Oliviers,
intending, if possible, to reach the place of a Mr. Mey,
on Kromm Revier, where we expected to find a relay
of oxen ready for us. Having crossed a large brook
with a rough bo I torn of loose stones, we found the road
sandy, and easy, and though the night was very dark,
we pleased ourselves with the thoughts of being no lon-
ger among rocks and precipices, in constant danger of
oversetting.
The weather in the afternoon had turned out rather
unfavourable, and we expected a rainy, windy night, yet
every now and then, the stars appeared, and while we
were amused by a sudden flash of light, not much infe-
rior in brightness to what is called white lightning, oc-
casioned by a shooting star, all on a sudden, a crash was
heard, and the baggage-wagon being foremost, and con-
spicuous by its white covering, vanished out of sight.
The careless leader, a Hottentot lad, had suffered the
oxen to turn upon the grassy bank, which on each side,
by degrees, rose to the height of two feet above the
23
178 JOURNAL OF A
level of the road. On turning in again, both wheels
sHpping off the edge of the bank at once, the wagon im-
mediately overset, and fell into the hollow, with its top
downwards. Brother Stein was lying in it, fast asleep.
We instantly quitted our wagon to come to his assis-
tance. To our great sorrow, we foand him much hurt,
both in his head and right arm, particularly in the latter.
He felt faint, and stunned with the blow. Our first busi-
ness, therefore, was to do all in our power to afford him
relief. The oxen were unyoked, the tent set up, and a
fire kindled with some bushes, which our Hottentots,
contrary to their usual custom, had gathered, and tied
behind the wagon. It was well, that, for once, they had
been so provident, for the place where the overthrow
happened was quite destitute of bushes or any kind of
fuel.
The night was so dark, that we could not see far
around us, but only perceived, that we were in a valley
between low, barren eminences, with a flat top. With a
view to discover whether there were any bushes in the
neighbourhood, we set the dry grass and rushes on fire.
The fire ran along so fast, that I began to be apprehen-
sive, that in case we were near any dwellings, or Hot-
tentot huts, mischief might ensue, and with much trouble
we extinguished it again, but not before it had afforded
light sufficient to examine the damage done, and to see
Brother Stein comfortably housed and put to bed in the
tent. He bore his misfortune with uncommon fortitude
and resignation, never uttering a single complaint against
the careless Hottentot leaders and drivers, who had been
the cause of it. He was not able to lift his arm, but did
not think that it was fractured, and, as none of us possess-
ed the least skill in surgical affairs, we were obliged to
leave him to apply what he thought best. The bottle
of bukku brandy was not broken, and this was the only
medicine he used, from first to last.
We now began to examine the wagon, when, to our
great joy, we found, that it had not received the slightest
injury by the fall. That part of the hollow road, into which
it had fallen, was full of fine sand, soft and yielding, where-
as, if it had overset about half a dozen paces sooner, or
as many farther forward, it would have fallen upon ^
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 179
bare rock, and probably been greatly damaged. The
mischief done to the contents of the wagon was hkewise
not so great as might have been expected. A few cups,
saucers, and plates were broken, but we regretted most
of all the total loss of our stock of wild honey, both jars
being thrown out of the wagon-chest and dashed to pieces,
and all their sweet contents spilt in the sand. After
emptying the wagon, and setting all hands to work, we
lifted it up, drew it forward upon even ground, and pack-
ed it again. Providentially, we were favoured with bet-
ter weather. Brother Stein, after the pain in his head
and arm had somewhat abated, regained his usual cheer-
fulness, expressed thankfulness to the Lord that it was
no worse, and perfect resignation to this dispensation,
which he was assured was meant for good, and only re-^
gretted, that he should be for a season prevented from
rendering us any assistance. He even retained his ap-
petite, and as we were supplied with a good supper by
our faithful caterer, he ate heartily of it.
Each having contributed as much as was in his power
to set matters again in order, when we met together in
the tent, we could not but reflect on the situation into
which we were unexpectedly thrown. While exposed
to dangers among frightful precipices and rocks, in the
mountains and defiles, through which we had passed, we
had met with no accident whatever; but here, when we
thought ourselves perfectly safe, and on level ground,
we were suddenly brought into trouble, by this unlooked-
for event. We were humbled under the mighty, but mer-
ciful hand of our God and Saviour, and commended our-
selves anew to His protection, of which, even now, we
have experienced a singular proof, in the manner in which
we met with this accident, as above stated. One of the
company observed, that in every dispensation, with which
the Lord visits His people, there is a voice, a word of
admonition, reproof, or encouragement, and it would be
right and profitable, on the present occasion, for each of
us to be attentive to it ; for if we are His sheep, we shall
be taught to know His voice, and well to distinguish it
from the voice of a stranger.
During the night, not being disposed to sleep, I thought
180 JOURNAL OF A
much on our situation, uncertain whai injury Brother
Stein might have received, and whether, perhaps, our
progress might not be interrupted, if not our plans frus-
trated, by this circumstance. Whenever I perceived him
stirring on his mattress, I asked softly, how he felt, and
always received that comforting answer, that he did not
think that his arm was broken. He begged no altera-
tion in our plan might be made on his account, and ex--
pressed his trust in God, that no further harm was done
than that he was for a time disabled, and we should miss
his assistance on the journey. Meanwhile we all waited
anxiously for the morning, and considered it as very pro-
vidential that it did not rain. Rain would have render-
ed our situation much more inconvenient and distressing,
and the small stock of fuel we had brought with us, serv-
ed us and our people no longer than was necessary to
cook some victuals.
30th. The morning's dawn showed us the surround-
ing country : a dreary waste, a valley without water,
enclosed between barren hills. The same careless fel-
low, who had been the immediate cause of all the mischief,
had left the oxen to stray so far from the wagon, that all
search for them seemed to be vain. In about three
hours, Jeremias discovered and brought them back.
Meanwhile, Brother Schmittand Marcus had walked on
to Mr. Mey's farm, on Kromra Revier, where we had in-
tended to spend the night, to announce our arrival, and
procure the relays. Lebrecht Aris was gone forward
in another direction, to order a second spann. The
Hottentots belonging to the relays were wandering
about, on a vain search for the strayed cattle, and we
were left alone with Johannes and Jeremias. We were
therefore all obliged to assist in yoking the oxen, some
of which did not seem to have much respect for their new
masters, but ran about, or showed a threatening pair of
horns. At length they were subdued, and having made up
a bed in the baggage-wagon for our wounded companion,
we proceeded, and reached the hill above Mr. Mey's
farm. On inquiry, we heard that Brother Schmitt had
sent Marcus forward to a farmer of the same name for
at relay, and was himself gone to Ellandsfonteyn, a place
VISIT To SOUTH AFRICA. 181
belonging^ to Mr. Piet Fereira. Sister Schmitt and I
followed him, while Mr. Melville staid with the wagons
We met him returning, and though he had got no Jxen
he was well pleased with his visit. The farmer's wife
was anxiouslj concerned for the salvation of her soul,
and verj eager to hear from him, in what way she might
hnd rest. He showed her, from the scriptures, that she
could not obtam it, but by coming to Jesus, according to
H.s own gracious invitation, given to " all that labour
and are heavily laden." She seemed to derive comfort
Irom his encouraging address. He recommended to her
to read the bible, with prayer, that the Spirit of T'ruth
might explam to her soul the word of the Cross, which
IS "the power of God unto salvation to every one that
beheveth." He had also met with a man from the Cham-
toos Kevier, who gave him much useful information about
that country, and of its occupation by many new settlers.
A Hottentot irom Gnadenthal had already made our
errand known among the farmers. One of them, on a
visit to Mr Piet Fereira, informed Brother Schmitt, that
he had a place exactly suited to our purpose, which he
wished to dispose of, and would have him immediately
come to see and judge for himself. Brother Schmitt pro-^
raised, that if we discovered nothing to suit us in Uiten-
hagen district, we would, on our return, call and look at
nis place.
As we could not procure the oxen we wanted, we pro-
ceeded with those we had brought with us, to a valley,
whither Mr. Marcus had ordered two spanns to meet us!
Here we turned the former adrift, leaving them to find
their way home, which they are sure to do, though no
driver be with them. We were very thankful t5 Mr.
Marcus for his civility, especially as he had at first de-
clared, that he would not furnish any oxen, except by
command of his own Veldcornet. ^
Our road lay through a narrow vale, with the Kromm
Revier runmng m a deep bottom. This river rises in a
barren glen, above Mr. Mey's farm, and must be often
forded, as 1 winds from side to side, and truly deserves
the appellation of the Kromm, or crooked river
Our next station was Jagersbosch, a farm belonging to
1 82 JOURNAL OF A
a German of the name of Akkerman, who received us
very civilly, and promised to send us forward in the morn-
ing. A tyger had just been killed by one of his Hotten-
tots, and two dragoons were helping him to skin the
animal, the carcass being still warm. It was a beauti-
ful young creature. The manner in which it was killed
deserves notice. The Hottentot having discovered his
haunt, went out with ten dogs, but without any other
weapon than a club. As soon as the animal perceived
the dogs advancing, he fixed his fiery eyes upon the man^
and flew towards him. The Hottentot presented his
kaross as a shield, and succeeded in warding off the
stroke and throwing the tyger upon his back, when the
dogs, instantly falling upon him, kept him down, till the
Hottentot had an opportunity of hitting him some severe
blows on the head with his club, by which he was stun-
ned, and then stoned to death. The skin was not injured,
and 1 promised the conqueror to purchase it on my re-
turn, if I found it well tanned.
Our tent being pitched near the river, we spent a quiet
night. Brother Stein complained of more pain in his arm,
but continued to apply bukku brandy to the part injured.
31st. After breakfast. Brother Schmitt and I walked
up to the farm-house, and took a view of the premises.
The poor farmer was so much alarmed at the expense of
measurement and taxation, that he offered to dispose of
his place at the low price of twelve hundred rix-dollars.
It has many advantages, and water in abundance,
brought by a^/o/e, or canal, from a considerable distance,
and lying so high, that all the grounds may be irrigated
with ease, and a mill supplied by it. The house was in
ruins, and one miserable room contained the whole fami-
ly. In the grounds stood a remarkably large, wide-
spreading oak, bamboos of very stately growth, and a
great number of orange, lemon, peach, and other fruit-
trees, but all neglected, and going to decay. In former
days, the place w^as kept in good order, avenues of trees
and hedges still remaining. The lands, belonging to the
farm, extend for a considerable way, both up and down
the river, and appeared to us well adapted for the
growth both of corn and grass. But there is an objec-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 183
tion to this place for a missionary station, which, in our
view, was an insuperable one. It lies on the high road;
the inhabitant is continually annoyed by calls, and put to
great expense by entertaining all travellers without ex-
ception, and though African hospitality is by no means
what some have described it to be, but the traveller is
often turned out, and sometimes prefers to encamp upon
the werft, or in the field, yet every one thinks himself at
liberty to enter any house on the road, and sit down to
talk.
The time, before Mr. Akkerman's oxen arrived from
the hills, was spent in various useful employments, till
about ten o'clock, when we set off, keeping for many
miles along the banks of the Kroram Revier, in a narrow
vale, in which, now and then, we met with some pictu-
resque scenery. We passed two farms, deserted, as we
were informed, by the possessors, on account of their in-
ability to pay for measurement and taxation.
At three in the afternoon, we reached Essenbosch, and
the weather having become unpleasant, with much wind,
and threatening rain, we ordered the drivers to pass the
farm-house, and descend into a woody glen, through
which ran a clear brook, falling in small cascades down
the rocky declivity, and altogether appearing a romantic
retreat. The place first chosen for our tent being much
exposed to the wind, we fi^und another, more sheltered,
and, as the oxen had been some time unyoked, and were
gone away, we performed, in their place, the service of
drawing the wagons to it.
Our tent was now pitched on a grassy spot, surround-
ed with bushes, and defended by high trees against the
wind, which had risen to a pretty heavy gale. It blew
and rained all night, but having reached this snug shel-
tering-place, before the rain began, we did not suffer
much by it.
After dinner, as Sister Schmitt was going to fetch
something from the wagon, she was alarmed by the sight
of an animal, in appearance as large as a mastiff, run-
ning out of one thicket into another, the light of the fire
showing his shape pretty distinctly. Though she was
laughed at for her fears, we all felt some degree of
184 VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA.
alarm, and rekindled our two fires, for we were in a re-
gion where wild beasts were said to abound, and where
cover enough was to be found for them among the rocks
and bushes.
During the night, I awoke and heard distinctly an un-
known noise, seemingly not far from the tent, resembling
both the growl of an angry cat, and the low bleating of a
calf. Perceiving Brother Schmitt to be awake, I asked
sofdy, " Do you hear that T' " Ay," said he, " 1 have
been listening to it for some time : no good comes out of
that throat !" In the morning, the Hottentots, who had
likewise heard it, pronounced it to have been the roar of
a tyger, probably of the creature seen by Sister
Schmitt.
April 1st. To our great joy, all the clouds had fled,
together with the wind, and the sun shone bright. We
now first saw and were delighted with the snugness of
our encampment, and the beautiful prospect towards the
west. A very high peaked mountain, of a conical form,
which we had yesterday noticed, though obscured by the
rain, appeared now to great advantage, overtopping all
the other hills. It looked like a huge volcano. Under
it lay three ridges of subordinate hills, of various shapes,
one rising above the other. The wood, with our tent,
wagons, and fires, formed the fore-ground, and the whole
w^as worthy of the pencil of a Nicholson. Both Mr.
Melville and I endeavoured to obtain an exact sketch
of this charming landscape.
As to our departure, we remained some time in un-
pleasant uncertainty. One spann had been ordered at
Essenbosch, and the other from a Mr. Miller at Soekow,
who was to fetch us from Jagersboch. We feared,
therefore, that the latter might have passed by, during
the night.
Meanwhile Sister Schmitt reported, that on going to
procure some milk from the farmer's wife, living on the
hill eastward of our camp, she had found her to be a
woman of uncommon size, occupying a huge arm chair,
above a yard wide, out of which she was scarcely able
to lift herself. She had expressed a wish to see the
whole of our party, and certainly, though she herself
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 185
would excite as much curiosity in England, as the famous
Lambert, she had a right to consider us, as Englishmen,
equally worthy of attention in Africa. Otherwise, being
perfectly content with things of ordinary size and ap-
pearance, I should not have gone a step out of my way
to see a monster. But being so kindly invited, we went
in a body to pay the lady a morning visit at her own
house, if the hovel she inhabited may be dignified by that
name. It consisted of an oblong square, enclosed in a
wall of unburnt bricks, one half of which was covered
with a roof of rushes. The entrance was througrh the
uncovered part. In this vestibule three or four naked
slave-children were crawling about; a woman, partially
clothed in rags, with a child strapped to her breast, was
cooking some victuals at a fire, and dirt, guts, old shoes,
rags of sheep-skins, and other filth, occupied every part
of the premises, out and inside. On entering the main
apartment, the first thing that met the eye was the
carcass of a sheep just killed, hanging from a cross-beam
with a pool of blood on the clay floor, under the head ;
five fox-coloured cats were sitting round, watching for
their share of the spoil : a milk-pail, churn, and some
other kitchen utensils to the right; and to the left, the
lady herself, who kindly invited Sister Schmitt to come
and sit down on a stool, between her and the pendant
carcass. Her husband, a very civil old man, with a
gray beard, and a large straw hat, sat at the table, and
a bench was placed for us, between the carcass and the
door. The lady herself entered freely into conversation,
told us, that notwithstanding her enormous bulk, she
was only forty-three years old, and good-humouredly ob-
served, that Sister Schmitt looked now only like a little
girl, passing several jokes on the difference between
them. Her face still retained some vivacity and come-
liness. Her body entirely filled the vast chair she sat
in, on the arms of which her elbows rested. She in-
tended soon to remove to another habitation onSeijeants
Revier. When once hoisted into the wagon, she can no
more quit it, till she arrives at the place of her destina-
tion. From her wooden throne, she issued her com-
mands to her slaves, Hottentots, and brutes, with the
24
186 JOURNAL OF A
same shrill voice for which the African ladies are
noted. Close to the dwelling, was the beast-kraal,
and the surrounding premises exhibited a congeries of
lumber, rags, ruin, and disorder, not to be described.
Through all this chaos, ran a small stream of spring-
water, clear as crystal, in vain offering its aid to cleanse
the Augean stable. The lady, however, conscious of
mortality, had already provided herself with a coffin
of immense size, which, with her gigantic bed, is screen-
ed off the apartment by a bulk-head of matting.
The old gentleman walked with us to our encamp-
ment, and not only gave good advice, but agreed with
Mr. Akkerman, who had followed us, that he should
put us forward with his oxen as far as Soekow, for
%vhich we felt much obliged to him. The latter wish-
ing to sell us a spann, Brother Schmitt entered into some
negotiation with him, ending in a reference to a de-
termination on our return. At half past nine, we left
this romantic outspann-place, and passed through an
uninteresting country, till, about one o'clock, we ar-
rived at Miller's farm. We here procured sweet milk
and good bread. Some dragoons seemed pleased to
meet with their countrymen, and Mr. Akkerman, with
the old farmer from Essenbosch, had preceded us on
horseback. Relays being soon provided, w^e set out
for the Veldcornet's, hoping to reach his place before
dark. The road, however, was bad, and we got on
but slowly. Several antelopes were seen, but their
swiftness saved them, nor had we dogs used to the
chase. On the road we met a Serjeant of dragoons
with a private. The former had been at Groenekloof,
and was acquainted with the missionaries, with whom
he entered into conversation, and seemed quite in a
kind of ecstacy, speaking of the religious disposition of
all classes of people about Uitenhagen. He was sent
to call off all the dragoons stationed on the road, as
that mode of conveying despatches is rendered un-
necessary, by the conclusion of the war with the re-
bellious boors.
When we arrived at the Veldcornet's, we found him
very much out of humour. Mr. Melville, who first en-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, l87
tered the house to announce us, met with a very ungra-
cious reception, though we had sent Leonhard Paerl to
him with the landdrost's order for relays. In his ab-
sence, his wife had ordered them, but he pretended igno-
rance, and rudely asked, '^ Who are you ? What is your
business at Uitenhagen ?" with other questions equally
impertinent. Mr. Melville replied, that we should in«
form the landdrost of our business, when we reached the
drosty, and meanwhile required him to furnish us with
the means of proceeding. When the rest of us followed,
he began to use language which soon convinced us, that
we should be much happier in our tent, than under his
roof We therefore took leave, pitched the tent on the
werft, and kindled a fire. Sister Schmitt had previously
mentioned to the lady, that we should be glad to purchase
a sheep, but we now doubted, w^hether we should obtain
one. Her husband, however, unknown to us, ordered
two slaves to bring a sheep to the w^agons. They did
so, cut its throat, and left it to bleed, without informing
either us or our Hottentots, who accidentally found it
weltering in its blood. This extraordinary conduct gave
us no favourable opinion of the character of our ungra-
cious host.
2d. About four in the morning, I heard a noise in the
tent, and thinking that Mr. Melville's dog. Rambler, who
always slept there, was seeking something to eat among
fhe plates, sat up and cai/ed to him, when a large black
dog passed close by me, and ran out. He had devoured
the candle, emptied the butter pot, containing about two
pounds of butter, and would have made a better break-
fast, had he not been disturbed. When I left the tent at
daybreak, I saw the Veldcornet and another person
standino"o« the werft. Mr. Melville accompanied me to
him, to inquire, when we might hope to be forwarded on
our jo-^i^ney. To our surprise, we found him disposed to
be »nore civil, and he informed us, that we might expect
oxen by eight o'clock. As he seemed open to remon-
strance, we inquired the cause of his marked rough treat-
ment of us yesterday evening. He made an apology, by
explaining, how he was continually harassed by orders
for Vorspann, caring for the transport of the military
188 JOURNAL OF A
and their baggage, and put to the inconvenience of send-
ing his men up and down the country, instead of doing
work in his own farm, by which he sustained more inju-
ry, than any exemption from taxation could possibly re-
pair, and was prevented from erecting necessary build-
ings, and putting his place into better order. He appeal-
ed to a dragoon, who stood by, and added, that his pa-
tience and temper were so much tried, and himself
fatigued by continual calls, and riding about to secure the
oxen ordered, that it was no wonder, that he could not
contain himself. His apology w^as gladly admitted, Mr.
Melville only observing, that his complaints might have
been made in a more gentlemanly w^ay, and without
using insulting language. Our quarrel was then made
up, and he entered into friendly conversation with Bro-
ther Schmitt. His wife, whom we had found to be a
very civil and obliging woman, seemed quite to revive, on
seeing the reconciliation take place, having been truly
distressed by her husband's strange conduct yesterday.
The Veldcornet expressed his "admiration of the ap-
pearance and behaviour of our Hottentots, exhibiting,
as he said, such a contrast to that of the miserable and
neglected race of Hottentots, living among the boors.
Nothing was more enco\3raging and satisfactory to us,
than such remarks, nor is there a more convincing proof
of the benefit conferred upon this nation, by the intro-
duction of Christianity. It shows the necessity of ob-
taining more opportunities for planting missions among
them, in which Christian instruction and civilization 2:0
hand in hand.
In this part of the country, more than ^bout Gnaden-
thal and Groenekloof, one may behold the state of de-
gradation, into which the Hottentot nation ha^sunk, the
blame and shame of which lie heavy with som^ of the
former possessors of this land, who, first having r^^bbed
the aborigines of their paternal inheritance, took ad-
vantage of their tame and defenceless state, to thrust
them down into the most abject servitude. In this, they
are, by some, far worse treated than purchased slaves,
who are spared, because if lamed or destroyed by ex-
cessive labour or cruel treatment, they cannot be re-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 189
placed, but at an enormous expense. But there are yet
superior considerations, which make us desire the pro-
pagation of Christianity among the heathen. They are
summed up in that earnest prayer of every true believer,
^' that Christ may see of the travail of His soul and be
satisfied."" Though the conversion of the Aear/^ of those,
to whom his servants preached the gospel, is their prin-
cipal aim, yet it is most gratifying to perceive, that even
men of no religion acknowledge the effects of the gos-
pel in the mind and manners of those, who have received
it in faith.
From this place, we saw, for the first time, in the north-
east horizon, the Winterhoeks mountains^ which present
themselves with many peaks.
CHAPTER XI.
Large aloes. Soefe Kloof, Character of the country about
the Chamtoos Revier. JVarrow ^lens. Remarkable ca-
verns. Chamtoos Revier. Klein Revier. Descent into the
vale of the Louri Revier. Wild beasts heard in the woods.
Old FaerVs account of Gnadenthal, Desire of the Hotten-
tots to hear the gospel. The Galgenbosch. Hospitable re-
ception at Klaarefonteyn and Kaffre KraaL Van Staade\^
Revier. Thickets about the Zwartzkop Revier. Arrival
at Uitenhagen.
We could not set off till half past eleven, when we saw
a country before us, apparently level, but full of dells
and gullies. The great variety of bushes and flowering-
shrubs on all sides, attracted our attention. Large aloes
are interspersed among the bushes, and, with their broad
leaves, form a striking contrast to the many small-leaved
evergreens which surround them. Some of them
were in full bloom, towering above the thicket, and one.
more perfect than the rest, was brought into the wagon.
The flower consisted of seven branches, one in the centre,
and six surrounding it at regular distances. The centre
branch was a foot and a half long, the rest about thirteen
inches, all thickly covered with a succession of long, bell.
190 JOURNAL OF A
shaped flowers, each orange-coloured at the stem^ and
passing into bright vermilion towards the top. The
brilliant appearance of this huge flower, or mass of
flowers, disposed like a chandelier, and mounted on a
stem six feet in height, with a capital of massive leaves
spreading above three feet in diameter, is beyond con*
ception grand. The bountiful Creator has been pleased
to clothe this country, unproductive as it generally is in
means of subsistence for man and beast, with an astonish-
ing profusion of vegetable beauty. Hardly a spot exists,
upon which some curious and beautiful plant does not
rear its head in its proper season ; and in the midst of
this brown desert, we see the magnificent chandelier, or
red star-flower, measuring from four or five inches, to a
foot and a half, in the spread of its rays, growing luxuri-
antly among stones and sand.
Unexpectedly, we found ourselves on the brow of a
descent into a charming vale, called the Soute Kloof.
We dismounted and walked into it. The whole coun-
try assumed a different character, as we approached the
Chamtoos Revier. The descent into the Soute Kloof
promised fair for a change in mineralogical appearan-
ces, for it was covered with fragments of a bluish quartz,
with mica, and a disposition in the fissures of the quartz
to crystallization. A soft schistus broke forth in several
places, but towards the bottom all these favourable
symptoms vanished, and the old combinations of sand-
stone coloured by iron, with opaque veins of quartz, dis-
appointed my wishes. Our attention, however, was suf-
ficiently engrossed by the ever-changing scenery of this
lovely spot. The elegant, but troublesome mimosa, oc-
cupies the greatest part of the wood, so as to render it in
some parts impervious.
In passing over a gentle eminence, we were struck
by the view of a remarkable cavern to the right, and left
the wagons, that we might go and examine it. It con-
sisted of a natural arch of about twenty feet span, the
rock composed entirely of smaller or larger pebbles, ce-
mented together by a ferruginous clay, so as to consti-
tute a coarse pudding-stone. The whole appearance of
the cavern was, in miniature, not unlike the rocks of
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 191
Cushendun in the north of Ireland, which I visited in
1808. Mr. Melville, Schmitt, and Stein, climbed up the
steep ascent into the cave, while I stood below, endea-
vouring to make a sketch of it. Deeply en^a^ed with
iny work, and seeing Mr. Melville and Stein return to
the wagon, I thought the whole party had left the ca-
vern. Unexpectedly, I heard something stirring within,
and stopped to listen. All was still, and I went on draw-
ing, though somewhat alarmed. By and by, the noise
mcreased, and fancying, that by our invasion of the den
we might have roused some wild animal, which are said
to be numerous in these solitary woods, I started from
my station, and was just going to run off, when I saw
iirother fechmitt's arm reaching out of the mouth of the
cavern, endeavouring to dislodge a fragment of the rock,
to obtam a specimen. As I knew him to be perfectly
tame, I ascended, and proceeded to examine it more mi-
nutely, but hardly ever remember to have been more
truly and tremblingly thrown into needless fear.
Leavmg the narrow glens about the Soete Kloof, we
crossed a level piece of ground, loosely covered with
thorn-bushes, and arrived at a farm near the Wagedrift,
on the Chamtoos Revier, where we halted to make some
inquiry, as to the places mentioned in Colonel Bird's list,
and found them all occupied, or in requisition. The far-
noier from the Chamtoos drift, on Klein Revier, was at
the house, and took a lift in our wagon across the ford.
The Chamtoos is a considerable river. Its stream is
clear and sweet, and we regaled ourselves with a good
draught of these waters, which we had been so long seek-
ing, but cannot make our own. All accounts agree, that
every habitable spot on this river is occupied, and the poor
Hottentots have even been deprived of their right to a
place on Kleira Revier, which a former Governor had re-
served for them. The captain having been decoved
away under some pretext or other, and no more heard
of, for want of an heir to succeed him, the right to dis-
pose of the land fell into the hands of Government. The
English Governors intended to restore it to the Hotten-
tots, and It had been mentioned to me as a place suitable
lor a Mission; but being already in possession of a far-
192 JOURNAL OF A
nier, though without a grant from Government^ I and my
Brethren agreed, that here also, in fixing upon a spot
for a settlement, we would not, by any means, thwart
the views, or oppose the pretensions, however slight, of
any individual. We therefore resolved to proceed to
Uitenhagen, and consult the landdrost, to whom I had
been favoured with a letter from the Governor.
On leaving the Chamtoos Revier, we passed through
a thicket of mimosa, on level ground, till we arrived at
the Klein Revier, when the farmer left us. Mr. Melville
went with him across the river, in a canoe, half full of
water, and returned with a bottle of sweet milk. Mean-
while I took the portrait of one of our oxen, whose horns
spread to a greater extent than any I had seen, the
points being nearly six feet asunder. The brute stood
patiently for his picture, but on attempting to measure
his horns, he offered to use them in a way, that kept even
his driver at a respectful distance.
We now entered a country similar to that in the Soete
Kloof. The road winds through a low wood, and is ex-
tremely rugged, and full of holes. Many curious caverns
appear in the hills on both sides. From the kloofs, we
ascended a barren hill, consisting of masses of iron-stone,
the surface of some appearing as if they had been in the
fire. They lay upon white clay, in some places powder-
ed, and mixed with sand. At sunset, we intended to en-
camp for the night, but as the Hottentots assured us, that
it was only an hour's drive to a much better out-spann
place on the Louri Revier, we continued our journey
over the edge of a barren hill. Descending into the
Louri Revier vale, we all left the wagons, as it was with
great difficulty, and even hazard, that they were brought
down in safety, the road winding through a dark wood,
full of holes and dangerous slopes. It was a fine star-
light night. All nature seemed hushed in peace, except
that now and then the croak of some nocturnal bird, or
some unusual sound at a distance, or on the nearer hill,
attracted our attention. Knowing that these woods are
haunted by tygers, wolves, and buffaloes, we frequently
fancied those sounds to proceed from some greedy throats,
in search of prey, and they occasioned just enough of
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRI€At 193
alarm, to add some speed to our progress, and make us
glad to hear the barking of dogs at the distant farm.
There we had intended to spend the night, but when the
wagons with Brother Schmitt overtook us at the ford, we
resolved, after crossing the river, to encamp on the oppo-
site bank, to shorten our journey ; for, if we had proceed-
ed to the farm, we must have returned to the ford. Mr.
Melville rode to the house, where he left his horse in
charge of two dragoons. On his return, he gave us but
faint hopes of our being provided with the means of pro-
ceeding in the morning, Vorspann had been ordered
here by the Veldcornet, but the farmer, Mr. Van Roy,
being absent with two spanns, his lady thought herself
under no obligation to provide oxen for us. Mr. Melville,
however, prevailed upon her to promise to let us have
one spannin the morning, for a six hours' skofF, or half a
day's journey. The second spann had been ordered by
the Veldcornet to meet us at the Chamtoos Reviei\ and
of course would miss us. Wolves were heard howhng in
the woods on the opposite bank.
3d. During the night. Sister Schmitt was alarmed by
distinctly hearing tygers growling in the woods, on the
hill nearest to our encampment. She got up quietly,
Rambler following her, and went to the Hottentots, who
were lying about the fire. By their report, she found
that she was not mistaken. But not willing to alarm us,
though I saw her return, and spoke to her, she did not
mention it, till we rose in the morning. No traveller,
however, need be afraid of the tyger of this country en-
tering a tent. Unless attacked, or conceiving himself to
be in danger, he cautiously avoids meddling with man.
Whenever met with in an open field, if he has opportuni-
ty to escape, he makes off slowly and crouching, like a
cat, but if prevented from escaping, is most furious and
determined in self-defence. The woods about the Cham-
toos and Louri Reviers are said to abound with them,
and the very appearance of the country suggests the
idea of its being a haunt of wild beasts. The hills,
which are not high, are full of singular caverns and bro-
ken rocks, and the number of glens, intersecting each
other in all directions, afford the best cover for all kinds
25
194 JOURNAL OF A
o{ ravenous animals. Cattle are not considered safe,
feeding in the woods or fields, and hardly in their kraals
or pens.
Brother Schmitt, on mounting the hill near us, was
delighted with this charming valley. His Avife, mean-
while, visited the farmer's wife, Mrs. Van Roy. Thither
we soon followed her. She was full of the usual com-
plaints against the measures of Government, and seemed
a woman of spirit.
After breakfast, we held a council, in which it was de-
termined that Mr. Melville, Stein, and myself, should
proceed in the travelling-wagon with Mr. Van Roy's
spann, to a farm, called Klaarefonteyn, and there hire
oxen to fetch the baggage-wagon and the rest of our
party from hence, and both proceed towards Uitenhagen
with relays, ordered, as before, by the landdrost's letter
of command; for we gave up all expectation of seeing
the spann sent, by mistake, to theChamtoos Revier.
Meanwhile, Brother Stein had visited the Hottentots
and slaves belonging to Mr. Van Roy's farm, in their
bondhoeks, or huts, and had much useful conversation with
them. They had heard that we were in search of a
place to build a settlement, and the Hottentots declared
that they would all come and live in it, that they might
hear the word of God; and, had they known last night,
that we were teachers from Gnadenthal, they would have
come to our camp, and begged to be instructed. They
had obtained some information of the aim of our journey
from Leonhard Paerl, who, as our precursor, officiously
announced our errand. He had sat up with them the
whole of the night preceding our arrival, describing
Gnadenthal, its regulations, its schools, the instructions
given to the Hottentots in the Christian religion, the culti-
vation of the grounds and gai dens, &c. ; interspersing his
account with observations on the necessity of conversion,
the happiness enjoyed by those who believed in Jesus
Christ as their Saviour, and their hopes of eternal life,
after the death of the body.
This simple narrative had so much engaged the at-
tention of these poor people, that they expressed the
greatest eagerness soon to have the same benefit be-
stowed upon them, in this country. Though old Leon-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 135
hard's officiousness, in thus informing the farmers and
others, what we were in search of, in some instances,
raised needless uneasiness in prejudiced minds, yet we
forgave it, in consideration of his frequently adding ob-
servations, which may have been blessed by God in the
hearts of those that heard his artless speeches. Before
we set out, a party of women and children came down
to the river to see us. The children were all stark
naked.
Marcus and Johannes attended the travelling-wagon*
Our leader was a Hottentot from the farm. As we
travelled along, we were greatly delighted with the
variety and beauty of the prospects that opened to our
view. A dragoon had told us, that we should soon come
into a country, looking like England, and we found his
prediction verified. The so-called Galgenbosch, has
very much the appearance of an extensive range of
parks. We seemed to be passing from one park to
another. The elegant mimosa is distributed upon the
hills, in copses, or stands singly. Here and there a
thicket fills a dell, or a wood of larger trees a wider
glen. Clumps of high trees ornament the sides of the
hills. Distant mountains of singular outline, with a
nearer range of lower hills, ending towards the sea, with
one of a conical form, present a most interesting horizon
to the east, and the woody, wavy country between them
and the road, affords infinite gratification to the eye of
the traveller. But the habitations of man are very
thinly scattered over an immense tract of country.
At two, we reached Klaarefonteyn, the farm of a Mr.
Neukirch, of German origin, where we were most kind-
ly received, and hospitably treated. Thick milk, bread
of excellent quality, and a fried sausage were set before
us. The old farm-house was burnt by the CafTres during
the late invasion, and its ruins exhibited a proof of their
savage mode of warfare. Mr. Neukirch was imme-
diately ready to furnish oxen, to bring us to his brother's
house, on Van Staades Revier, and, meanwhile, to send
another spann, which should fetch the baggage-wagon
from Louri Revier, and join us in the morning. After
about an hour's rest, we left this hospitable dwelling,
196 JOURNAL OF A
and proceeded through thick woods, which opened here
and there, affording a peep towards the mountains to the
left, or the coasts of the Indian ocean to the right of the
road. Before w^e descended into the valley, we met two
wagons belonging to Bethelsdorp, full of Hottentots, but
did not stop to converse with them, for which, probably,
neither party could spare the time.
The descent towards the river is steep and rocky, and
though lately much mended, very rough, almost resem-
bhng some of the roads in Plettenberg bay. Mr. Mel-
ville made a beautiful sketch of the view from the brow
of the hill, towards the mountains. I walked alone
down the road through the wood, examining the stones.
On the summit of the hill, I found a white, gritty kind of
limestone, but towards the bottom, nothing but a soft
schistus, with quartz, and coarse sand-stone, too soft ever
to make good roads. For about a mile, it leads through
a wood of lofty trees, some falling through age, others
pressed down by an immense quantity of bush-rope, or
Bavianstau, some disfigured by mosses, or covered with
w i!d vines and a variety of creepers, while others tower
aloft, unentangled, in perfect health and beauty. An al-
most impenetrable thicket forms the underwood. The
river flows in a deep, shady bottom, and the farm-house,
called Kaffj-e Kraal, built of red brick, presents itself
pleasantly on the opposite eminence overlooking a deep
glen, enclosed by steep, woody hills. The premises are
the cleanest I have yet seen in this country. We were
w^ell received by Mrs. Neukirch, one coming in after the
other, and followed by the farmer himself, who had
overtaken Mr. Melville, and heard from him our story
and our w^ants. The evening was very agreeably spent
with him and his friendly wife, and we were lodged in a
room adjoining the dwelling, purposely built for the ac-
commodation of travellers.
1th. We breakfasted with the family, and Mr. Neu-
kirch's conversation proved him to be an intelligent,
friendly, and honourable man. During the forenoon,
w^aiting for our companions, Mr. Melville and I were en-
gaged in writing and drawing, and Brother Stein in visit-
ing the Hottentots and slaves. In one of the huts, he
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 197
found several people assembled about a sick person, to
whom he spoke of the love of God our Saviour towards
the whole human race^ and explained to the poor patient
the way of salvation, when a woman, sitting in a corner,
began to utter loud groans. As she would not yield to
remonstrance, he was obliged to leave the hut. The
people seemed to wish for instruction.
At twelve o'clock. Brother Schmitt and his wife arriv-
ed with the baggage-wagon. We had much regretted
their absence, during the course of our delightful ride
through the Galgenbosch yesterday. The Hottentots
and slaves on Louri Revier, had come to their tent, but
not before they were gone to bed. Our Hottentots
would not disturb their rest, which they regretted, being
ever ready, by day or night, to do the work for which
they are appointed. At six in the morning, they set out
for this place.
Our friendly hostess prepared an early dinner for us,
and we left this hospitable house with sentiments of much
gratitude to its inhabitants, for the kind reception and en-
tertainment we had experienced. After crossing Van
Staades Revier, a clear and rapid stream, we kept for
some time along the glen, with a high woody bank on
the left side of the river. Several secretary-birds made
their appearance. They almost seem to know, that they
are protected by man, on account of their services, in
destroying serpents and other noxious animals ; they
therefore take no pains to escape.
On gaining the heights, we met our host's son, armed,
who, with some other young men, were escorting a wa-
gon, containing four of the rebellious boors, condemned
to imprisonment and banishment for a certain term of
years.
As we doubled the conical hill to the left, being the
last of the ridge of hills above described, we noticed, on
its declivity, some huge fragments of rock, and many of
smaller dimensions, lower down, apparently thrown from
the upper region by a convulsion of nature, or by some
milder process. For several miles, the road passes over
a dreary waste, after which we entered into a dense
thicket, consisting of a vast variety of bushes, intermixed
19^ JOURNAL OF A
with aloes, Indian figs of different species, and many
shrubs and flowers unknown to us. This thicket covers
a great extent of country, and the whole of the hills de-
scending into the vale of the Zwartzkops Revier.
Uitenhagen presents itself pleasantly, with its few
white houses, and the mansion of the landdrost, at the
foot of a range of low hills. A plain extends to the
southward. Having crossed the Zwartzkops Revier, we
reached the village about six o'clock, and pitched our
tent on the common, near the beast-kraal and market.
Mr. Melville, who went immediately to the post-office,
and in search of friends, was every where unsuccessful.
We regretted with him the absence of Mr. Swann, the
surveyor, from whom we hoped to have received much
information respecting the unoccupied parts of this
district.
CHAPTER XIL
Transactions at Uitenhagen. Proposals made by the land-
drost to extend our journey. Visit to Bethelsdorp. Re-
marks on the situation of that settlement. Hospitality of
Mr. Von Buchenrode. Departure from Uitenhagen.
Geelhoutboom on Sundays Revier. Elephants and
buffaloes. Arrival at the Witte Revier. Description
of the valley^ and of the Schlagboom farm.
Apihl 5th. Our groom, Leonhard, having arrived two
days ago, had called at the drosty, to exhibit our creden-
tials to the landdrost. Colonel Cuyler. After breakfast,
I waited upon the Colonel, and delivered to him Colonel
Bird's letter, with another from the landdrost of George,
Mr. Van Kervel. He received me with great civility,
and offered me a room in his house, apologizing for
his not being able to accommodate our whole party,
as his rooms were occupied by offices of Government,
the new building destined for that purpose being not
yet finished. As I did not wish, on any account, to
be separated from my companions, I could not accept
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 199
his kind invitation. Speaking of the aim of our jour-
nej, he offered every assistance in his power, and
seemed to wish to see a settlement of the Brethren
formed in his district. For this purpose he mentioned
Klein Revier, near the Chamtoos Revier, as being a
very suitable situation, with every requisite for a vil-
lage of about five hundred inhabitants, which we might
claim, the present tenant not having obtained any grant
of the land. He likewise described another place in
Achter Bruntjes Hoogte, as suitable, the lease of which
was about to be called in by Government, as the
possessor had been concerned in the late rebellion,
and sentenced to be removed from that part of the
frontier. One of his sons had been executed, and ano-
ther banished, having been convicted of treason. The
landdrost added, that there was sufficient land unoc-
cupied on the Zondags Revier, (Sundays River,) and
wished that we might visit that country.
On my return to the tent, we held some consultation
about the proposals made by the landdrost, but could
come to no determination. To an application for the
possession of the Klein Revier farm, the same objec-
tions prevailed which I have before stated; and we
felt uncomfortable in the idea of occupying a place, of
which an old tenant and his family had been deprived,
though as a just punishment for their misdeeds. Colonel
Cuyler followed me to our encampment, to invite the
whole party to dinner.
During the forenoon, we w^ere visited by several Hot-
tentots belonging to Gnadenthal, at present serving in
the Cape regiment, and by others, who sought to make
acquaintance with our people. The keeper of the tronk
(prison) and his wife very civilly offered their services
to do any thing for us; and the Secretary, Mr. Allen, a
friend of Mr. Melville's, with great kindness, appro-
priated a room in his house for our accommodation, in
case a change of weather should make us wish to leave
the tent. We accepted of his invitation, and removed
our bedding into the house.
The afternoon was most agreeably spent with the
landdrost and his lady at the drosty. After dinner, we
200 JOURNAL OF A
visited a young lion chained in the yard, larger than a
mastiff, perfectly tame, of the large black breed, that is,
having a black mane, and black bush at the end of his
tail, but otherwise of a dingy brown, or tawny-colour.
Like others of the feline tribe, he seemed fond of being
stroked and petted, and, like a house-cat, shoved up
against the person fondling him. Yet it appeared pru-
dent to keep one's hand at a respectful distance from his
-wide mouth. He continually uttered a kind of friendly
growl, the double base to a cat's purring. A silver-gray
monkey also, of singular beauty, full of tricks, but of
what species I cannot tell, diverted us for some time.
He had been a great favourite in the family, till, interfe-
ring too much with the children's comforts, stealing their
victuals, and doing other mischief, he was now sentenced
to exhibit his pranks in the yard, on a pole with a bar
across, where he yet retained his friendly disposition.
Both the lion and monkey had been inhabitants of the
neighbouring hills.
The landdrost entered with much interest into the bu-
siness we were engaged in, and showed himself well-dis-
posed towards the civilization of the Hottentots. His
lady had visited Gnadenthal.
Being so near Bethelsdorp, the principal establishment
of the Missionary Society in London, he offered to fur-
nish us with a relay of oxen to our travelling wagon,
that we might visit that place.
6th. About eight o'clock in the morning, we set out,
taking Marcus, Johannes, and Lebrecht Aris, with us.
The road is not interesting, but after crossing the
Zvvartzkops Revier, about an English mile from Uitenha-
gen, runs over a wild, level country, till within sight of
the village.
We were received with great kindness by the mission-
aries, Messrs. Messer and Hooper. The former is by
birth a German, and the latter an Englishman. Mr.
Read, the principal, or director of all the missionary es-
tablishments of the above-mentioned Society in Africa,
was absent, having accompanied Mr. Williams into Caf-
fraria, where, it was said, king T'Geika had applied far
a settlement, or a " school," as the institutions of that
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 201
Society are here called. We cordially wish success to
every attempt to make the gospel known among the hea-
then, and hope, that their exertions will be attended with
permanent benefit to that wild and ignorant nation.
After being introduced to Mrs. Messer and Mrs. Wil-
liams, who seemed pleased to make acquaintance with
Sister Schmitt, we walked out to see the settlement.
Mrs. Read is a Hottentot woman, and did not join the
party, but was visited by Sister Schmitt at her own
house. Mr. Melville was so deeply engaged with read-
ing the account of Bethelsdorp in the Rev. Mr. Camp-
bell's journal, that he did not accompany us in our waik^
especially as he had no inclination to take a view of a
place so totally destitute of any thing picturesque.
We had been willing to believe, that the very unfa-
vourable accounts, given by travellers, of Bethelsdorp,
were greatly exaggerated, if not altogether false, and
that it was not to be credited, that a Society, possessed
of such ample means, would suffer any of their settle-
ments to remain in so disgraceful a state, as to be always
brought forward against them, as a proof of the unprofit-
ableness of their missionary exertions in this country.
But I am sorry to say, that as to its external situation,
nothing can be more miserable and discouraging. Men,
therefore, who judge only from outward appearance, are
apt to draw inferences to the prejudice of its inhabitants.
This is acknowledged by Mr. Campbell himself, and he
offers an apology, which such as view the subject with a
favourable disposition towards the main purpose of the
institution will admit. What may have been the motive
of its founder. Dr. Van der Kemp, for fixing upon a spot^
in every respect so little calculated to raise any thing
but disagreeable sensations in a traveller's mind, I can-
not tell. The district of Uitenhagen was at that time
but very thinly occupied by settlers. Government most
generously offered every facility, and gave him his choice
of the best places in its territory. He looked at some,
and at length sat down in the most barren, desolate, un-
promising desert I have yet seen in all South Africa.
He was an eccentric character, but a man of cool
judgment, and, I make no doubt, had he been alive,
^6
202 JOURNAL OF A
would have given plausible reasons for his choice;
though they might not have satisfied a man, who, while
he loves and admires, above all, the Creator, cannot be
totally indifferent to the beauty of his works, but seeks
thankfully to enjoy those advantages and conveniences,
with which God has so abundantly stored his creation.
Yet they would have exhibited to the mind of a candid
inquirer the truly sincere and religious motives, by which
this venerable man was actuated on all occasions.
His successors, however, are to be pitied, as being
now obliged, not only to dwell in a situation incorrigibly
bad, but continually to hear the severe and unjust re-
marks, made in consequence of its wretched appear-
ance. Not a tree is to be seen, excepting two or three
ragged speckbooms, standing before Mr. Read's house^
and scarcely a blade of grass. The hills, enclosing the
small kloof near the village, are completely barren, and
their outlines tame and uninteresting. The small brook,
if it deserves that name, coming out of the kloof, is quite
insufficient for the purposes of irrigation, or to supply
water for a mill; nor could we comprehend, how so
large a fraternity as are said to dwell here, obtain water
enough for common use. This being a time, when most
of the inhabitants are with the boors, we saw very few
of them, nor did they appear disposed to notice us. The
arrival of our wagon seemed to excite no curiosity
whatever. In this respect, we perceived a great dif-
ference between the inhabitants of Bethelsdorp, and
those of Gnadenthal, upon which our Hottentots made
some sensible remarks. Towards evening, a few old
men approached the wagon, in the shade of which our
people were rosling, and entered into conversation with
them, but from ?/5they seemed to stand aloof.
We were, however, received and treated with the
more kindness, and with truly brotherly affection, by the
missionaries, and though it happened to be a busy day
with them, several affairs of house-keeping, such as bac-
king, brewing, &:c. having been undertaken, and our un-
expected visit therefore seemed out of season, yet they
exerted themselves to make it agreeable. Mrs. Messer
provided a good dinner, and her husband devoted him-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 203
self to us, as much as the necessary operations, already
commenced, would allow. Meanwhile I made a few
sketches of the interior of the settlement, chiefly of the
church and Dr. Van der Kemp's dwelling. Both these
buildings are singular monuments of the peculiarity of
his taste. The church is an angular structure, or rather
consists of two buildings, placed together nearly in a
right angle. The inner walls meet; the outer are con-
nected by a wall, elhptical in its form. In the middle
of this junction, the minister's seat and desk are placed ;
thus he may be seen and heard by the whole audience,
though the men and women, who sit separate, cannot see
each other. The building is low, with small square
windows, thatched, and without a ceiling. A small room
or closet is boarded off on the men's side, containing
what is called the library. The books are chiefly for
the use of the school, besides some religious publications.
A few minerals and stones, brought from Latakoun, the
Namaqua country, and other stations, constitute the mu-
seum ; but they were much injured, no one seeming to
pay attention to mineralogy. Dr. Van der Kemp's house
IS about eight feet square, made of unburnt brick, and
covered with thatch. It stands near the church, and is
now in possession of the mother of the Hottentot woman
whom he married, some time before he died.
Having finished my sketches, Mr. Messer accompanied
Brother Schmitt and me through the village. Complaints
having been made, that the huts and cottages lay scat-
tered, without any regularity, we saw a beginning of
forming regular streets with houses of unburnt brick,
which, when completed, will be a great improvement.
A new school-house, with a printing-office annexed, is in
forwardness, and will add much to the value of the es«
tablishment. After dinner. Brother Schmitt walked
with me into the kloof, where Mr. Messer, with great la-
bour, has made a garden, which produces a good crop.
The other gardens do not look well, for want of trees
and hedges. The mill was quite out of repair and use-
less; nor is the mill-course well contrived, so as to ob-
tain the full force of the scanty supply of water. On re-
Uirning from the kloof, we entered a smith's and a car-
\*™
204 JOURNAL OF A
penter's shop, but found, that they had not been used fo
some time. Meanwhile Sister Schmitt procured som
matting, our stock being much worn. Both she an
Brother Stein had entered several houses, with a viei
to visit and converse with the inhabitants, but it did not
seem as if their visit gave much satisfaction. The peo-
ple appeared timid and reserved, and we understood,
that Dr. Van der Kemp's caution against making too (ree
with strangers had created in their minds a disposition to
reserve, which they did not at all understand when to
lay aside.
From the more elevated part of the settlement, Algoa
Bay is visible. We would gladly have accepted of Mr.
and Mrs. Messer's kind invitation to stay over night at
Bethelsdorp, but we began to be covetous of our time,
nor had we yet come to a determination respecting the
landdrost's proposal for a continuation of our journey
towards Achter Bruntjes Hoogte, in search of unoccu-
pied land. We had therefore ordered our w^agon to be
ready at seven o'clock, but heard that the oxen had
strayed and could not be found. Mr, Messer therefore
hired a spann for us, when, unexpectedly, Lebrecht Aris
brought back our own. It was dark, but fair, and Mar-
cus, by good driving, brought us to Uitenhagen, in three
hours and a half.
7th. After breakfast, going to the drosty, I met Colo-
nel Cuyler coming towards our tent. He turned back
with me, observing, that he had something to commu-
nicate, which he thought would be worthy of our atten-
tion. We had been conversing much at breakfast about
his proposal to visit some situations on the Zondag's or
Sunday's river, and had nearly resolved to proceed no
farther in our search. But now the landdrost informed
me, that he had been made attentive to a situation on
the Witte Revier (or White River) flowing from the
eastward into the Sunday's river, which possessed abun-
dance of good grass, wood, and water, was yet unoccu-
pied, and might be applied for, without in the least in-
terfering with any other person. He therefore advised
us, by all means, to go and see it, and as Mr. Knobel, the
district surveyor, just then entered the room, the land-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 205
drost desired him to give me a particular account of it,
and directions how best to proceed. He also generously
offered every assistance in horses and oxen, to convey us
thither.
On my return to the tent, I made a report of this new
proposal, and all agreed, that, as to the situation on the
Witte Revier, we should not do right in declining so kind
an offer ; but we yet retained our scruples, as to the
propriety of applying for the estate of a man, banished
for treason, whose relatives would surely not be satisfied
to see a place so long in possession of the family, trans-
ferred to other hands.
To-day, being Palm-sunday, we had a public meeting
in our tent. We read the lesson for the day, after which
Brother Schmitt delivered a short discourse and prayer.
Many Hottentots attended, sitting in and about the tent,
with great devotion. After service, I accompanied Sister
Schmitt to the tronk, to see a young Catlre, who had
been taken in the act of stealing cattle, some days jour-
ney from hence. His person was athletic, his counte-
nance open and pleasant, and as a token of special favour,
he presented Sister Schmitt with a shell, taken from his
necklace. He could only converse with us by signs.
I next waited on the landdrost, to inform him of our
resolution to accept his offer, as it respected the Witte
Revier, but stated our objections to going to Bruntjes
Hoogte. He brought forward so many reasons, why we
should at least go and look at the latter place, that on a
second consideration, we determined not to leave any
thing relative to the business committed to us unfinished,
which might, perhaps providentially, become a means of
contributing to promote the aim of our journey into this
distant part of the colony. On acquainting the land-
drost with this result, he expressed much satisfaction,
and furnished me with the necessary papers. 1. An
order for relays. 2. A letter to Dr. Mackrell, agent for
Government at Somerset, on the Boschberg in Bruntjes
Hoogte. 3. A plan of our route. 4. A list of places,
where we might find good quarters, with the names of
the farmers. 5. An order to Messrs. Scheepers, sen.
and jun. occupying farms at each end of the Witte
206 JOURNAL OF A
Revier Valley, to show us their land-marks, and the un-
occupied ground on that river.
The weather had totally changed, and it rained hard
all the afternoon. We drank tea with Mr. Von Buchen-
rode, a German gentleman, residing here as a merchant.
He willingly rendered us every service in his power, and
indeed it was well that we found such a generous friend
at Uitenhagen, where, as yet, little is to be had, either
for love or money. We had depended upon being able,
at this principal town of the district, to furnish ourselves
with a sufficient supply of wheaten bread and other pro-
visions ; as also to replace our stock of crockery, the
greatest part of which had been broken, either by the
oversetting of the baggage-wagon, or by other means.
Mr. Knobel, the surveyor, joined us, and we spent the
afternoon in pleasant conversation. Mr. Von feuchen-
rode gave us some interesting account of the country we
were about to visit, and the wild animals infesting it.
Sister Schmitt going to the tronk, was introduced to
the prisoner G. B. confined for six months, according to
the sentence pronounced against some, who had joined
in the late rebellion. The poor man appeared much
humbled, and expressed a hope, that, by God's mercy,
this affliction might lead him to consider the concerns of
his immortal soul, and seek true rest and salvation in
Jesus. He now read the Bible with attention, and a
sincere desire to profit by it. The keeper of the tronk,
and several of the military, besides the Hottentot sol-
diers from Gnadenthal, were glad to attend our family-
worship.
8th. The rain continued with such violence all day,
that we were obliged to postpone our departure. During
the night, a dog entered the tent, and carried off a but-
ter-pot, wrapt in a napkin, and a pair of springbock
horns, given me by Colonel Cuyler. We gave them up
for lost; but they were found in a ditch near the tent.
He had devoured the butter, half of the napkin, and
part of the skull belonging to the horns. This is the
second time that we have been thus robbed by these half-
starved animals.
Some Hottentots, who visited us in the tent, were de-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 207
sirous to know our opinion concerning the groaning prac-
tised by some of their countrymen during divine service.
We answered, that we believed that the work of God'&
Spirit was not to be sought for in noise and external
marks, which might be affectation, but in an humbling
sense of our sin and need, and in a broken heart and
contrite spirit. The Lord was not in the wind^ nor in
the earthquake, but in the small still voice.
Mr. Von Buchenrode having invited our whole party
to dinner, we again met Mr. Knobel, when, after a long
dearth of musie, I was extremely gratified to find in the
latter an excellent performer on the piano-forte and flute.
We spent two or three hours in playing Haydn's and
Mozart's duettos, to the great gratification of our hear-
ers. Little did I expect to have such a treat in this
distant corner of the earth.
Towards evening, the rain ceased, and we prepared
to set out in the morning early, hoping the rivers
were yet passable.
9th. Though the morning was again rainy, we de-
termined to proceed, and I went to take leave of the
landdrost, and make some final arrangements. No-
thing could exceed the kindness and good will of Colo-
nel Cuyler, who acted as if he were personally inte-
rested in the success of our expedition. He showed
me the horses destined for us, with his own travelling
horse for myself. Once more I paid my respects to
the young lion, who came forward to be stroked. A
servant had this morning killed a pufFadder near the
drosty. This venomous reptile was about three feet
long, four inches in circumference, its head flat, the
variegated spots on the back beautifully and regularly
arranged, black upon a greenish-gray ground.
Besides the oxen and horses provided for us, the land-
drost sent drivers and guides, and two Hottentot soldiers,
who should escort us through the Witte Revier Valley,
and to Kourney. Before we set out, a number of persons,
both whites and Hottentots, came to bid us farewell, and
express their best wishes for our success. Our depar-
ture was delayed till near nine o'clock. The caravan
conisisted of our two wagons, each with ten oxen and a
208 JOURNAL OF A
guide, two of our own horses, three from the landdrost's
stables, and two Hottentot soldiers, armed with musquets,
and dressed in green jackets, with a powder-horn and
knapsack.
On quitting Uitenhagen, we soon entered the same kind
of thicket of brush-wood and bushes, which surround the
village on all sides, and cover every eminence. Our at-
tention was again much engaged with the curious plants
and flowers, growing luxuriantly among the bushes.
Now and then we sent one of the men to fetch some re-
markable flower for our inspection. Here, for the first
time, we saw Hottentots riding on oxen. The halter or
bridle is fastened to a piece of wood, passing through
the cartilage of the nose, by which the beast is easily
guided. In about two hours, we reached a farm, with a
decent-looking dwelhng-house, and a mill. Brother
Schmitt walked with me down the river-side, to the mill.
The main wheel lay horizontally, the water taking the
cogs sideways. This kind of water-mill is common here,
of very simple construction, but has but httle power.
The next place we touched at, was on the Kouga Re-
vier, where we entered the house, and found a friendly
family, from whom we purchased milk and butter. While
I was admiring a large favourite cat, the farmer observ-
ed, that he valued that creature as much as the best of
his numerous dogs. She destroyed not only mice and
rats, but even large snakes, which she attacked by beat-
ing them about the head, till they were stupified, then,
seizing them by the neck, killed them with her teeth.
The road continued to lead through bushes, during the
whole of the day, excepting where an opening occurred,
with a few scattered copses of trees. On our approach-
ing Geelhoutboom, which, according to the directions
given, we were to make our first night's station, the Hot-
tentot soldiers and old Paerl rode forward in full trot.
This made us rather uneasy, especially when it grew
dark, our own people being unacquainted with the road;
but when we arrived, we forgave them, on finding that
they had kindled a large fire in the wood, and fixed up*
on a place of shelter for our tent. The weather now
seemed to clear up, and the moon shone bright. Two
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 209
fires were kindled, to which we dragged branches of trees,
if possible, to keeptheui blazing through the night, as a
guard against wild beasts, buffaloes having been observ-
ed by our horsemen to enter the wood before them, and
elephants being often seen in these parts. I slept in the
baggage-wagon ; and towards morning heard, with con-
cern, the rain violently beating against the covering.
9th. When w^e rose, the clouds had dispersed. We
were thankful for the return of fair weather, ag this was
the day, when we hoped to see the spot on which, if it
so pleased God, a congregation gathered from among the
heathen, at some future period, may dwell, in the enjoy-
ment of Christian privileges.
One of our Hottentot soldiers having shot a brace of
wild Guinea-fowl, brought them into the tent, and pre-
sented them to Sister Schmitt. They were remarkably
large and fleshy.
^ We now surveyed the place where we had spent the
night. It was an opening in a wild wood, with tall trees,
and much underwood, not five minutes walk from the
banks of the Sunday's river. A quantity of elephant's
dung, partly fresh, lay between us and the river, which
seemed to indicate that, even during the night, some of
these huge creatures had passed that way. Tygers are
said to be numerous in the thicket, but w^e neither heard
nor saw any of these animals, so carefully do they avoid
the presence of man.
After breakfast, our party divided, according to the
landdrost's direction. Brother Stein and Sister Schmitt
remained with the wagons, and with one of the Hotten-
tot soldiers, and the guides went straight to Kourney,
Mr. Melville, Brother Schmitt, a soldier, and old Paerl,
accompanied me on horseback to the Witte Revier. The
Sunday's river flows here between high banks, covered
with a forest of great extent on each side. Its bed is full
of large round stones, which makes the ford unpleasant.
The water was about three feet in depth, but in the rainy
season the stream is very deep and rapid. As soon as
we had mounted the heights, and got through the wood,
Mr. Melville found some sport. Chase was made after
antelopes, and wild hogs, but in vain : an unlucky falcon^
27
210 JOURNAL OF A
however^ perching upon a tree, was brought down by
3. bullet. It was a large, handsome bird, about the
size of a turkey, white and dark-brown being its princi-
pal colours. After we had left the wood, the country
appeared pleasant, with good grass and many bushes,
either standing singly, or in chimps. We directed our
p^urse towards a range of woody hills, and into a valley^
through which the Witte Revier runs into the Sunday's
river. At the farm of Jacobus Scheper, senior, the val-
ley contracts, so as to form a glen, its entrance shaded
by large trees. Here a party of foot-soldiers occupied
a military post. The old farmer was not at home, but
his wife and daughter received us in a friendly way. We
produced the order from the landdrost to her husband^
to show us his landmarks, and the unoccupied land, but
did not trouble her to give us a guide, the Hottentot
soldier being well acquainted wiTh the place. The
English soldiers here behaved to us with great civility.
They showed us several skins of animals they had shot
jn the neighbourhood, among which were those of a buf-
faloe, some tygers, a lynx, a jerboa, called springhaas by
the Dutch, a creature of the didelphi kind with very long
Jijnd-legs.
We now proceeded on our journey, and entered the
wood at the opening of the glen. The sun shone bright
and the morning-showers had given new brilliancy to
the rich verdure. We were charmed with the variety of
trees and bushes, through which we rode, and noticed
several large butterflies, with wings of the richest azure,
sporting in the sun. Meeting with Mr. Jacobus Scheper,
jun. we presented the landdrost's order. He begged to
ride on to his father's farm on some business, but soon
returned to us, when he gave us every information re-
epecting the premises. The river, which we crossed
several times, at fording-places, darkened by the shade
of lofty trees, runs with a rapid stream over a stony bed,
here and there dipping under heaps of stones. These,
in ray opinion, having been brought down from the moun-
tains by floods, have accumulated to a height above the
common level of the water, as in Jackal's Kraal, (p. 161.)
In some places, the river forms a fine broad surface,
Vl^lt TO SOUtH AB^HICA. 211
passing quietly, though rapidly, along. As this Was not
the rainy season, there appears to be, at all times, d.
sufficiency of water for every purpose, with fall enough^
either to work a mill, or to be led into any part of the
more level ground.
But much as we Were pleased, and almost enchanted,
with the beauty of the glen. Brother Schmitt at first ob-*
jected to its narrow width, which indeed, on entering^
appeared little more than a few hundred yards, till we
had penetrated about a quarter of an English mile into
it, when it spread considerably, the hills receding on both
sides. To the left, they are high, and full of kloofs,
containing large timber. A range of lovrer eminences
lies at their foot; having, as we were informed, plenty
of good pasturage upon them. To the right, the hills
are lower, but more interesting in their appearance.
Their tops are covered with bushes, the lower region
steep, and, in many places, supported, as it were, by
rocks of a deep red colour. These rocks are concrete
masses of pebbles and clay, strongly impregnated with
iron. The colour of some of them approaches even to
pink or lake, with white or yellow veins. At every turn^
the outline of the hills varies, presenting some pictu-^
resque scenery. Leaving the path, which runs nearly
through the middle of the valley, we rode towards the
riirht and left boundaries, to examine the nature of the
soil, or the course of the riverv or to ascend some emi-^
nence, affording a better view of the different situations
beneath. About the middle of the vale, our attention be-
ing attracted by the appearance of high red rock, we
turned towards it, and found it rising perpendicularly
beyond a large sheet of water. Between it and another
rock on the opposite bank, a woody glen descend^d^
probably containing some stream, contributing towards
the formation of the lake or pond. Both in and out of
the wood, we had discovered abundant traces of ele-
phants, both by their foot-marks, their sleeping-places^
their dung, and by several thorn-bushes, torn up by the
roots and placed on their crowns, that these creatures
might eat both the leaves and the more tender roots^ of
which they are said to be particularly fond. We now
212 JOURNAL OP A
found the whole field near the pond covered with tlieir
dung, which shows that they frequently resort to this
place for water. In the day-time, they generally hide
themselves in the large woods, and kloofs, but at nighty
descend to quench their thirst. Leaving the pond, we
crossed a stony eminence, and descended into the glen,
w^here the Caffres in 1797 had their chief ehcamp-
ment.
This glen intersects the main valley. To the left, it
forms a passage towards the high mountains, which are
entirely covered wdth forest-trees, and to the right, di-
vides a lower range of hills. They here assume singu-
lar forms. Mr. Scheper justly compared one of them to
a fortification ; semicircular caverns appearing in rows,
much like some of the works seen in ancient strong-
holds. Towards the end of the valley, the mountains, to
the left, are higher and more imposing, and their num-
berless kloofs, filled with wood, give them a peculiar
character. After again several times crossing the bed
of the river, we entered upon the premises belonging to
our guide, Mr. Scheper, junior. The farm lies in a most
romantic situation, at the bottom of an amphitheatre of
lofty hills.
It would be tedious to attempt to particularize all the
various beautiful objects surrounding this place, but w^e
all agreed, that it w^as one of the most singular spots we
had seen during the whole journey. To the right, a
steep woody bank terminates in a high black rock, on
w^hich stood a tall tree, spreading its branches above the
rest. Under this tree, Mr. Scheper had placed a seat,
and there found a safe retreat, from whence he might
fire at elephants passing through his premises, without
danger of an attack from them, if not immediately killed.
The old farm-house and out-houses were demolished
by the Caffres, about fifteen years ago. The present
dwelling, put up in place of the house burnt by those
ferocious invaders, is a hovel, not much better than a
Hottentot's bondhoek. We found Mrs. Scheper at home,
and met with a friendly reception. Some dragoons
stationed here, seemed likewise pleased with a visit from
their countrymen. If this delightful spot were situated
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 213
in a country where protection might be had from wild
beasts, and still wilder men, it would be coveted by every
lover of fine scenery, and fetch a great price. But here
it is of little value, as long as the unhappy disturbances
between the boors and the Caffres continue to exist, even
when no actual war is carried on. Mrs. Scheper^ who
was a person of better appearance and manners than
many of her class, grew eloquent in describing their si-
tuation : " What signifies," said she, " our building a
good house to live in, and substantial and expensive pre-
mises in a place like this, when, before we are aware,
the Caffres push through the wood, set all on fire, and
murder those who cannot save themselves by flight ?
Again, what pleasure can we have in a fine garden,
stocked with good fruit-trees, and garden-stuff, when,
after all our trouble, the elephants descend from the
kloofs, break through fences and railings, as if nothing
was in their way, pull up or tear to pieces our trees,
trample down or devour all our crops, and lay the whole
garden waste ? No ! we must make shift as well as we
can, and the less we have to lose, the less we have to
regret." She seemed to speak from a feeling of much
unhappiness, in being obliged to dwell in such a country.
This beautiful valley is indeed, at present, the habita-
tion of several wild animals, but would cease to be so, if
inhabited by any number of human beings. It is now
merely the passage of a few persons, between the farms
at each end, except, that while they are military posts,
some soldiers pass to and fro. We were told, that some
time ago, a soldier, walking alone, came suddenly upon
an elephant, (which may happen, if the creature is to lee-
ward, so as not to perceive the approach of man by his
smell.) Whether the soldier made the first attack or
not, is not known, but the elephant, after treading off his
leg and thigh, hip and all, threw the body into the bush-
es. The limb, trodden to pieces, w^as found in the road,
with his cap and accoutrements, but not the body, till af-
ter some days. The elephant and rhinoceros consider
large bushes no more as impediments to their pro-
gress, than a man does tufts of grass in a field. They are
not to be stopped by common fences or palings, and walk
214 JOURNAL OF A
unconcerned through the thickest underwooi^. in a
straight line, tearing up or pressing down even stout
thorn-bushes, with stems as thick as a man's leg. Of
this we saw frequent proofs in the Witte Revier Valley.
If, therefore, a settlement were made here, the first set-
tlers might certainly be in danger of sometimes having
their gardens and fields invaded, and even trodden down
or grubbed up by these animals, and perhaps suifer other
losses by ravenous beasts, who have hitherto considered
the valley as their patrimony. But, in a fewjears, the
mischief w^ould gradually cease, as these creatures re-
tire from the habitations of man ; which they are always
know^n to do.
In the records of Riebeck, the first Dutch Governor
at the Cape, we read of the ravages committed by lions,
tygers, and other ferocious animals in Capetown itself,
the whole country around being infested by them. But
now, though the population is so thin, they have retreat-
ed into the most distant parts of the colony. Before our
missionaries settled at Bavians Kloof, the kloof was the
haunt of hundreds of baboons and other wild animals.
These also have, by degrees, retreated, and but seldom
come from the mountains to steal peaches, or other fruit.
The ringingof bells, cracking of whips, and firing of guns,
often repeated, will at length drive them away, though
they may, for a time, dispute the possession.
When we left this beautiful spot, Mr. Scheper accom-
panied us for several miles. Our road to Kourney lay
over a steep, stony hill, thickly covered with almost ira-
y)enetrable bushes, at the top of which, during the war,
the CafFres placed a huge beam, at each end fastened
with thongs to the trees, hoping thus to prevent the boors
and soldiers in the valley from following them, to recover
cattle, or to attack them. From this circumstance, the
place has acquired the name of Slagboom, (or turnpike-
par.) In riding up the hill, Mr. Scheper pointed out the
plant, from which the Bosjesmans extract poison for
their darts.
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA- 215
CHAPTER XIII.
Arrival at Kourney. Ji cow devoured by a wolf. Sand
Vlachte. JVighfs encampment on the Zuurberg. Cele-
bration of Good-Friday. Burning Kraal. Forsaken
post at Commadocha. Hospitality of the officers at a mili-
tary station. Arrival at the Great Fish River. Peep
into Caffraria. Proceed to Somerset. Dr. Mackrill.
The Boschbergh. Easter-Sunday. Survey of Mr. P.^s
farm.
For some miles we passed through detached woods,
then gained an open, uninteresting country, over w^hich,
after bidding farew^ell to our friendly guide, we pushed
on as fast as our weary and hungry horses could carry
us, till after sunset, when w^e reached Kourney, and
were joyfully w^elcomed by the rest of our company, w^ho
had safely arrived with the wagons. They had been
very civilly received and treated by the farmer, Mr.
Osterhuysen, and by the officers of a detachment of infan-
try stationed here, who had invited them to dinner, and
were waiting for our arrival, to treat us with coffee.
But as Captaio Terry was much fatigued by a ride from
Graham's town, we only paid a complimentary visit, and
went to the farmer's house, where we spent a very plea-
sant evening. Mr. Osterhuysen is a man upwards of se*
venty years of age, but remarkably lively, and full of anec-
dotes, which he relates with great spirit. There is some-
thing uncommonly benevolent and good humoured in his
countenance, and whole manner. After supper, Brother
Schmitt was desired to read and pray with the family,
all the slaves and Hottentots being admitted. When he
had read the lesson of the day, as prescribed in our
Church, he addressed them in a short discourse, which,
as we afterwards heard, made a salutary impression
upon several of the audience. Many expressed a wish
that we would form a settlement in this country.
Before we went to rest, a wolf, prowling about the
farm, set up a dreadful howl. The cattle had just been
secured in different kraals ; but one unfortunate young
216 JOURNAL OF A
COW had strayed and could not be found. During the
night, the bellowing of the poor beast proved, that she
was suffering from the jaws of the ferocious monster.
Brother Stein, who slept, as usual, in the tent, with the
Hottentot soldiers and some others, set out for her res-
cue ; but as the cries became fainter, and at length ceas-
ed, they returned. In the morning, the mangled and
gutted carcass was found among the bushes.
11th. I wrote a letter to the landdrost, and sent it by
the Hottentot soldiers, who returned with the guides,
horses, and oxen, to Uitenhagen. Mr. Osterhuysen hav-
ing provided us with two spanns, we set out about nine
o'clock, and arrived by an uninteresting road, at Sand
Vlachte, a farm in a dreary flat, with mean looking cot-
tages, out-houses, and Hottentots' huts. Soldiers were
quartered here, as security against the CafFres, whose de-
predations were conducted at this time with great bold-
ness. The military live in huts, constructed of reeds and
rushes. The farmer and his wife were hardly civil to us,
and we had to wait long for the relays, ordered to meet
us at this place. Standing with Mr. Melville and Bro-
ther Schmitt near a Hottentot hut, I heard a woman, with
a good voice, singing a hymn to a very jiggish and
trifling tune. I observed to my friends, how much it was
to be regretted, that through ignorance and bad taste,
such wretched compositions had been introduced, and
were now sung by many congregations, instead of the
grave and devotional old church tunes, upon which a
soldier, who stood near us, and every now and then had
put in his unasked-for opinion on the subject of our dis-
course, interposed, and with much impertinence, cloaked
in religious expressions, asserted that the tunes were
very fine, and pleased him wonderfully; " but," added
he, " mayhap you are one of those gentlemen who are
enemies to the work of faith." After a vain attempt to
convince him that an enemy of bad music might yet be a
friend to a genuine work of faith, we left him to the en-
joyment of the quavering song, and the satisfaction of
having boldly opposed an unbeliever. It is by such
rudeness that ignorant novices bring religion into dis*
^ repute with the world, forgetting the courteousness
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA* 217
taught and practised by our Saviour and his apostles,
as consistent with that humilitj and lowHness of spirit,
which those should learn of Him, who profess to take
His joke upon them.
We now proceeded towards the Zuurberg, and after
some time, entered a woody country. In one piace, a road
has been cut through the bushes and wood, parallel to
the old worn-out track. The nearer we approached
the mountain, the more were we entertained with the
surrounding scenery, the road winding through narrow
valleys, or over eminences, covered or crowned with
wood. On arriving at the foot of the mountain, which is
yery steep, the oxen made a dead stand, and it was long
before they could be brought to go forward. When
driven, they turned about, or backed, so as to endanger
the safety of the wagons. Having thus extorted some
resting-time from their impatient masters, and recovered
strength, they patiently dragged the wagons up the hill,
though towards the summit the road was extremely
rough and stony. After quitting the wood, we found
ourselves on a barren heath, from which the prospect
was very extensive, and we could trace our route nearly
all the way from Uitenhagen. Looking forward into
the country, into which we were about to descend, our
guides pointed out to us, at a vast distance, the Bosch-
berg, the proposed extent of our journey. The sun had
set, and we were anxious to reach the v^atley, the wind
being high and very cold, but our guides declared it im-
possible for the oxen to proceed a step farther. By
blundering or ignorance, they also missed a place, where
there was a sufficiency of water for their poor beasts ;
thus, after searching in vain, we were obliged to encamp
on a dry spot, where very little fuel was to be procured.
The moon shone'bright, but the wind rose, and our tent
was nearly blown down.
12th. Glad to leave this uncomfortable night's lodg-
ing, as soon as the day dawned, \^e descended into the
valley. We were overtaken by ten dragoons, and pleas-
ed to be able to serve one of them, by taking his and his
horse's accoutrements into our wagon, the horse being
sick, and obliged to be led. Among other singular
28
218 JOURNAL OF A
plants on the Zuurberg, we noticed a species of the
Wageboom, with a much broader leaf than that which
we had hitherto seen on the hills about the Kromtn Re^
\'ier. The outside was a dark green, the inside silver-
gray, covered with a w^hite down. At the bottom of the
hill, we encamped near a farm destroyed by the Caffres,
and forsaken, where we found the bed of a brook, with
only a few puddles of muddy water remaining in it.
This, however, was all we could procure, both for our-
selves and our thirsty oxen.
Being Good-Friday, we called to mind the great event
celebrated on this day, in the Christian Church. We
were in spirit with our congregations, met in so many
other parts of the world, as it were, under the Cross of
our Redeemer, and partaking of that consolation, which
is to be found in the remembrance of His sufferings and
death for us. But even here, in this lonely vale, se-
cluded from all Christian society, we and our Hottentots
were not forgotten by Him, who has promised, that He
will be with His followers alway, even unto the end of
the w^orld. Having seated ourselves, after breakfast, in
a semicircular excavation of the bank of the brook,
Brother Schmitt first read the lessons of the day, out of
the Dutch translation of the Harmony of the Evangelists,
while w^e followed our Lord, in spirit, through all the
sceqes of His sufferings. We prayed, that the Holy
Spirit might apply the merits of His passion and death
to our souls, and convince us, that " He was wounded for
our transgressions, and bruised for our iniquities," and
that the word of His Cross might approve itself the
Power of God in this country also, for the conversion of
many heathen. No service in any church or chapel
could be attended with more solemnity and true devo-
tion, nor with a more heart-reviving sense of the pre-
sence of the Lord, than our worship in this earthen tem-
ple.
On leaving this place, we ascended to a wide waste,
similar to the Karroo, in- view of a range of hills, con-
nected with the Zuurberg, and remarkable for that re-
gular division by kloofs, so common in this country.
Each has a hillock at its foot, shaped like a cushion, of
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 219
which we counted above twenty, having almost exactly
the same form and dimensions. Not nature herself, but
some violence done to hea*, has produced this extraordi-
nary phenomenon.
We ought now to have directed our course, according
to the landdrost's advice, to the farm of Cornelius Engel-
brecht, but our ignorant and obstinate guides, notwith-
standing all my protestations, carried us right out of the
regular track. We passed a farm, said to be burnt by
the CafFres. Either by accident or design, the beast-
kraal was also fired. The immense quantity of dung,
heaped up for years, and now as dry as chaff, was yet
smothering, and volumes of smoke arising from it. The
house, and several soldiers' huts, stood empty. About
two in the afternoon, we reached Commadocha, a milita-
ry post, lately forsaken. Viewing it at a distance, we
pleased ourselves with the hopes of there procuring a
fresh supply of good water, milk, and other articles, of
which we were in want. But not a dog came forth to
notice our arrival, much less a human being. The place
was surrounded by a mud-wall and a ditch. The wall
had loop-holes, and small bastions at the angles, suffi-
cient to resist any attack of undisciplined Caffres. We
entered this lonely place with some caution, but found
every part of it completely emptied of furniture. Two
or three old hats were lying about, which might have
been very serviceable to our Hottentots, but they would
not take them^ observing, that their owners were not
there to permit it. We acted with the same honesty, in
not seizing upon three pigs, and a number of hens and
chickens, running about the garden and bushes. Three
small dogs, nearly dead with hunger, were lying within
the wall, A fine cat came purring towards us out of a
bush, which we fed and intended to carry to the next
post, but she would not stay in the wagon.
The whole situation, with the surrounding country,
looked dreary and comfortless in the extreme; and
having rested about half an hour, we proceeded, and
arrived about sunset at a military post, at that time
commanded by a Lieutenant Forbes. The lieutenantj
and Ensign Dingley, offered us every assistance. Being
320 JOURNAL OF A
in want of several articles, we procured them from
the contractor, whose shop was situated on the other
side of a narrow vale. Ihe Ensign, however, soon
came to fetch us back to his hut, and insisted on get-
ting a dinner cooked for us. Having been advised to
take advantage of the full moon, and proceed to the
next station, we were obliged to decline his offer, but
accepted of that of the heutenant, to take coffee with
him. He presented Sister Schmitt with a loaf of wheat-
en bread of superior excellence, which proved a great
treasure tp us. The road was good, and we arrived
in about two hours at the post near the banks of the
Great Fish tiiver, the boundary between the colony
and Caffraria. Having pitched our tenr not far from
the kraal, we spent the nigfit quietly, though we after-
wards heard, that on that very day, the Cafllres had
stolen fifty head of cattle from the neighbouring farm,
and that several boors and soldiers were in pursuit of
the thieves. Report added, that being overtaken, they
quitted their prey, but wounded a boor in the neck with
an assagay, and carried off* the fire-arms of two others.
Some Hottentots from the kraal, visited us late in the
evening, among whom were two women belonging to
Gnadenthal, whose husbands were soldiers. Brother
Schmitt had some conversation with them, admonishing
them, so to conduct themselves in this strange country,
that the cause of the gospel might be honoured, and not
disgraced.
13th. Rising at daybreak, we heard some people sing-
ing hymns in one of the Hottentots' huts, near the farm.
They belonged to Mr. Vanderhagen's congregation, at
Grahamstown. Meanwhile Mr. Melville on foot,
and Brother Schmitt on horseback, had set out for the
river, being determined to cross it, if only for a few mo-
ments, to set foot on Caffre ground. Thither we follow-
ed them with Brother Stein. They had found the ford
very bad, the bed of the river being full of sharp rocks.
However, both gained their point, and stood some time
on the opposite bank. The rest of our paity were satis-
fied to get upon a sand-bank in the middle of the river,
which was here no wider than a laro-e brook.
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 221
This part of Caffraria presents itself with hills of mo-
derate height, and a smooth outline. The plain next the
river, and ascent towards the hills, are studded with the
mimosa, and seeixi to be good grazing ground. The
road on the CafFre side was blocked up with thorn-bushes,
as a signal that none are allowed to pass that way. On
returning, Brother Schmitt found some difficulty in re-
mounting his horse, and we felt rather in fear, lest the
frightened animal should do some harm either to his rider
or himself
Our prayers, this morning, were ojfTered up with pecu-
liar fervency, that the Lord might soon cause the light
of His Gospel to shine upon that benighted country, in
full view of which, we travelled nearly the whole of the
day, at no great distance from the banks of the river,
through a dry, barren waste. We halted near a farm,
where we were long detained, to give our weary oxen
time to pick some food. The young men from the farm
paid us a visit. Our ignorant guides being quite unac-
quainted with the road, we had to depend upon the saga-
city of our own people, to bring us to the Boschberg. Mr.
Melville had left us this morning, having received infor-
mation that his friend Mr. Swann, a Surveyor to Govern-
ment, was employed at a neighbouring farm. He intended
to join us again at Somerset, the residence of Dr. Mack-
rill, in Bruntjes Hoogte.
At sunset we arrived at a farm, to which the road
prescribed by Colonel Cuyler, would have brought us in
the forenoon. The farmer, Van Klerk, received us
civilly, and sent a lad to show us the way to Somerset.
But on arriving at the ford of the Little Fish River,
which we were now about to cross tor the third time, and
not knowing whether Mr. Melville had reached Somerset
to announce our approach, we thought best to encamp
on its banks, lest we should prove troublesome to the
Doctor, by an unexpected arrival, at so late an hour-
Our people kindled two large fires, for which we found
plenty of fuel. As it was very cold, and the wind rose
so much as to threaten our tent with an overthrow, we
spent the night rather uncomfortably.
14th. Easter-Sunday morning. How different was
222 JOURNAL OF A
our situation to that of most of our Brethren on this
great memorial-day ! Instead of being, with them, early
engaged in declaring our joy over the glorious resurrec-
tion of the Lord, and remembering, at the graves of our
departed friends, the truly Christian hope of a blessed
immortality, imparted to us by faith in our glorified Re-
deemer, in whose likeness we once shall rise, we were
here encamped on the banks of an African river, never
before visited by a member of our Church, and consult-
ing how we should best introduce ourselves to a man,
with whom none of us but Mr. Melville had the smallest
acquaintance. However, we were in spirit with our con-
gregations, adoring our risen Lord and Saviour, who,
though withdrawn from mortal sight, is present with His
people in every corner of the earth. The result of our
deliberations was, that I should take old Paerl, and ride
to Dr. Mackrill's house, previously to announce the party.
After crossing the river, and reaching the top of the
bank, the country assumed the appearance of a park.
The land was covered with short grass, and the thorn-
bush, dispersed in clumps, or standing singly, its greatest
ornament. The mountains of the Boschberg had a plea-
sant appearance, illumined by a morning sun. Doctor
Mackrill's house lies under one of the highest parts of
the range, and is a small neat building of unburnt brick,
stuccoed. x4djoining to it are several out-houses, and
huts for his slaves. The premises have a much cleaner
appearance than those of even the most respectable
farmers in the country, with whom neatness and cleanli-
ness seldom enter into calculation. One of them once
answered an observation I made on the subject, thus;
" What should I be the richer for it ? Plantations, and
the other arrangements you propose, would cost me
money, and do me no good." But Dr. Mackrill is an
Englishman. The name of Somerset has been given to
the place, in honour of the present Governor.
On approaching the house, I was met by Mr. Melville,
who had arrived last night, expecting that we should
soon follow, preparations having been made for our ac-
commodation. The Doctor, to whom I presented the
letter from Colonel Cuyler, received me with great po«
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 223
liteness, and immediately despatched a servant to the
river^ to bring in the whole party. After breakfast, we
went out to view the garden. It lies at the foot of the
mountain, and is stored, not only with a great abundance
of every kind of garden-produce, but, the Doctor, being
a good botanist, has transplanted into it a great many of
the flowering plants from the wilderness and woods, and,
by culture, very much improved their quality and beau-
ty. Here is every thing requisite for an excellent gar-
den : great depth of the richest soil, water in abundance,
and hands to work. The orange, and other fruit-trees,
appear in great perfection. The Boschberg, rising im-
mediately behind the garden, is a beautiful mountain, of
considerable height, intersected by many kloofs, filled
with wood, the intermediate eminences, like buttresses^
supporting the mountain. They swell, towards the
bottom, into hills of fanciful shape, covered with green
sod of the richest hue, excepting where the wood stretch-
es from the kloofs over part of them. At the top of
these buttresses runs a horizontal ledge of rock, partly
covered with bushes and creepers. A precipice of a
red colour, with gray veins, and overhanging a wide
kloof filled with timber-trees, has a singular effect. The
region, beyond the rocky ledge, is rough, but grassy.
The mountain recedes to the right and left, and, towards
the north-east, seems to rest upon another range, of
similar character. It has an even outline, and, beyond
the summit, on the side of Graaf Reynet, is said to shelve
off more gradually.
We observed two large baboons, sitting separately on
projecting rocks, probably placed there by the troop, as
sentinels, to guard against surprise. Though somewhat
intimidated by our shouts and menacing gestures, they
seemed determined to keep their station, sometimes slow-
ly retreating a few paces, and then returning to their
seats, showing their teeth and grinning defiance.
When we left the garden, passing by a low shed, a
serpent, of the most vivid green colour, beautifully mark-
ed upon the back, and spangled with silver-coloured
spots, reared its head from the thatched roof, and hissed
at Brother vSchmitt. He killed it with his stick, and
224 JOURNAL OF A
brought it out. The Dutch call it, Dachslange, (roof-
serpent,) as it seems to like to hide in old thatch, and is
said to be very venomous. /
We now visited the shop, containing every article, of
which either the boors, the Hottentots, or Calfres in the
neighbourhood might stand in need. It is under the su-
perintendency of Dr. Mackrill. Here may be had iron
and tin-ware, cloth, muslins, silks, pots and pans, and
even tobacco and snuff. Government, in promoting; this
speculation, had a benevolent design ; wishing to promote
confidence among the neighbouring Caffres and other
tribes, who, being in want of many articles of conveni-
ence and comfort, might purchase them here by barter,
or otherwise. Thus, friendly communication being esta-
blished, and more wants created, or rather, a better
knowledge given them of the advantages of the arts of
civilization, a disposition to industry might, by degrees,
be introduced.
In this view, no objection can justly be raised to a cre-
ation of additional wants among a savage and ignorant
people, whatever some philosophers may say of the hap-
piness of a state of nature. To assert, that at length,
by abuse, it may end in greediness, covetousness, and ra-
pacity, is no more than saying, that every faculty and dis-
position of the human mind, may be turned, either to a
good or bad use, as directed by a good, or perverted by
an evil spirit. The original plan of the establishment at
Somerset, was, to improve the extraordinary goodness of
the ground belonging to the farm, for the cultivation of
tobacco, which during the American war had risen to an
enormous price in the colony. Dr. Mackrill being a man
of extensive knowledge and active patriotism, proposed
to Government the improvement of the growth of that
article in this newly-acquired colony, not only with a
view to cheapen it here, but to furnish a supply for ex-
portation. Being permitted to fix upon a situation for
that purpose, he wisely chose perhaps the finest in the
whole district of Uitenhagen. But the war ceasing, and
tobacco being again sold at a price so low, as to destroy
every prospect of advantage to the colony, the plan was
changed. Corn is to be the principal produce in future.
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 225
After dinner, we took a walk to see the land belong-
ing to the farm. Its boundary, to the eastward, is a ra-
pid brook, proceeding from the mountain, and emptying
itself into the Little Fish River. The greatest part of
the valley is sprinkled with thorn-bushes, some of which
are of extraordinary size and beauty. The brook forms
two very fine cascades before it enters the river, and the
glen, through which it descends, is truly romantic. The
upper fall is over eight or ten ledges of rocks, and the
lower plunges, in several streams, into a deep basin.
Large-timber trees, and wide-spreading bushes, adorn
the steep banks of the brook.
Our company accidentally dividing, I walked with Dr.
Mackrill through the wood, in which he hoped to treat
me with a sight of buschbocks, and some of the many
monkeys that inhabit it. We saw none ; but the foot-
steps of a tyger were distinctly marked on the sandy
path; and two serpents were killed.
After tea, many Hottentots and slaves came to the
tent, to whom Brother Schmitt read the history of our
Saviour's resurrection, and delivered a short discourse.
The poor people seemed very attentive and thankful.
15th. The aim of our visit to Somerset was, by Dr.
Mackrill's assistance, to obtain some knowledge of the
farm, belonging to a Mr. P., now taken from him by
Government, on account of the part he took in the late
rebellion, and, as above stated, proposed by the land-
drost, as an eligible situation for a missiopary establish-
ment, for which he thought it might be easily obtained,
notwithstanding there had been some idea of making it
a military post. Though we could not get over our ob-
jections against applying for the possession of a confis-
cated domain, yet we should not have felt satisfied here-
after, had we not accepted of the landdrost's kind offer,
to give us an opportunity of seeing its situation. We
therefore left Somerset for Mr. P.'s place, about nine
o'clock, Mr. Austin, the deputy farmer, and Mr. Oakely,
a young gentleman, studying under the Surveyor Mr.
Swann, accompanying us on horseback. Mr. Melville
had gone to the house of Commandant Nels, to meet his
29
226 JOURNAL or ^
friend Mr. Swann, and we sent the baggage-wagon, to
wait for us at Mr. Van Klerk's.
Our conductors thought, that our aim in visiting Mr.
P.'s farm, had better remain unknown, and the party be
announced as only accompanying an English gentleman
on his travels through the colony.
We crossed the Little Fish River twice, keeping along
the plain, in ^, line with the mountain, and in about an
hour's time, reached the dwelling of this singular man.
It was a poor cottage, no better than a Hottentot's
house; but the vorhaus, or hall, w^as large enough to
contain a pretty numerous company of rebels.
Mr. P. is father to one of those lately executed :
another son was transported; and one would feel more
pity for the poor man, had he not been a principal pro-
moter of the late disturbances, though prevented from
taking an active part, on account of age and infirmities.
His house, however, is said to have been the nursery of
sedition, where the rebellious boors had frequent meet-
ings, and were advised and encouraged by the old man.
He had, throughout life, been noted for his opposition to
Government, and more particularly hated the English,
for making its measures more effective than the Dutch
were able to do.
Notwithstanding his escape from the fate which over-
took his rebellious sons, yet both his former conduct in
aiding and abetting, and even his present encourage-
ment of every remaining disposition to revolt, has indu-
ced Government to use the power vested in it, and, by
cancelling his lease, to make him quit the farm, remu-
neration being given for the opstall, that is, for the
buildings and improvements. The official notice had
pot yet reached him.
I could not help contemplating the old man with much
compassion. He spoke of the loss of his son, "who was
no more," and of the other, " who had left the country,"
as having so discomposed his affairs, and disturbed his
mindi that he intended to sell his farm, and move into
some other part of the colony. He related, that he had
teen settled in South Africa, ever since the year 1771,
and for his own pleasure, travelled through it iq all di-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA* 227
rection^, even among the Bosjesmen and Caffres, by
whom he had always been treated with the greatest kind-
ness and regard. He had a good deal of the cant of our
English democrats, and self-named philanthropists about
him. He behaved very civilly to us, though I was an--
nounced as an Englishman, but while I was walking over
part of the grounds with Messrs. Austin, Schmitt, and
Stein, not knowing that Sister Schmitt was an English
woman, he betrayed his hatred against the nation ;
^' The English," said he, " pretend to know, that this
country lately belonged to the CafFres, but 1 know bet-
ter. Not a CafFre lived here, when I first came into it,
nor yet within a great many miles beyond the Great Fish
River, but the English think themselves the wisest of
men."
This place is undoubtedly a most eligible situation for
a missionary settlement, possessing corn-land and pas-
turage, and well supplied with water. The valley is
very extensive, and connected with others, enclosed
by branches of the mountains. We looked at a wolf-
house on a heathy eminence behind the garden. It
is a walled trap, resembling a mouse-trap, with a fall-
ing door, awkwardly constructed. In this trap, five
wolves have been caught within the last three months*
The Brethren Schmitt and Stein continued their walk to-
wards the hills, and down the valley, while Mr. Aus-
tin returned with me to the house. The buildings form
a very unsightly group of hovels, bondhoeks, and
ruinous walls. 6ung, rags, remnants of half-devoured
carcasses, and other filth, surround the dwelling on
all sides.
Beyond this place we did not extend our reconnoi-
tring journey. The landdrost had indeed most kindly
expressed a wish, that we would go yet farther, and
examine situations on Bavians Revier, in Graaf Reynet,
a river flowing into the Great Fish River; but as he
could not point out any particular place, yet unoccu-
pied, and I had heard, that the only land worth pos-
sessing, on that riVer, was on the Caffre side, where
no Hottentot settlement could be formed with safety,
and having likewise far exceeded the time appropri-
228 JOURNAL OF A
^ ated for this expedition, we resolved to return from hence
to Gnadenthal.
CHAPTER XIV.
Return to Uitenhagen. Commandant Mis. Ostriches.
Wild Peacocks. A Pvf adder killed. Herds of Spring-
bocks. Restless night spent at Engelbrechfs farm. Ta-
rantula. Encampment on the Zuurberg. Jsighth lodg-
ing at Kourney. Destruction of the garden by three ele-
phants. Part of the company go to the Witte Revier.
The Ados drift on Sunday's River. Arrival of both
parties at Uitenhagen. Report concerning the Witte Re-
vier Vale. Journey from Uitenhagen to the Chamtoos
Revier. Visit to Klein Revier. Observations made by far-
mers on the measures of Government. Wild oxen. Elland's
Fonteyn. KUphubel.
On arriving at Mr. Van Klerk's farm, we spanned out
in the field. The provision made for us by Dr. Mackrill,
was such as to render us independent of the assistance
of the family. It was not till after sunset that we left this
place, and set out for Commandant Nels' farm. Here we
were kindly and hospitably received both by him and his
wife. They have no family of their own, but have adopt-
ed six children of poor neighbours. In this, as in other
instances, they showed much superiority of character.
Mr. Nels was sent by Colonel Cuyler to the rebellious
boors, to endeavour to bring them to reason, and to pro-
mise forgiveness of the past, if they would only return
to their dwellings in peace; but they not only paid no
attention to his remonstrances, but when he was gone,
said, that they were sorry they had not shot him. As a
reward for his courageous conduct on many occasions,
he received a beautiful double-barrelled gun from Lord
Charles Somerset.
We found here, our friend Melville, Mr, Swann, Mr,
Oakejy, and very comfortable accommodations. Nor
would Mrs. Nels take any pay for our excellent supper,
breakfast, provender for the horses, and several article?
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 229
of housekeeping, given to us. Brother Stein had slept
in the tent, but was much disturbed by the howHng of
wolves, by the cattle breaking out of the kraai, and
the attempts made to secure them again. Indeed we were
thankful to find, that none of our loose oxen had fallen
a prey to the nightly depredators.
1 6th. We set out about nine o'clock, accompanied by
Messrs. Swann and Oakely. The road was hilly and
stony, and the country barren. After about three hours'
ride, we halted on the waste to dine- The horsemen
preceded us, in hopes of shooting some game, but were
unsuccessful, though many ostriches, wild peacocks, kor-
hans, (black-cocks,) and antelopes were seen. A large
puffadder, however, received the contents of Brotlier
Schmitt's gun. This powerful and venomous serpent was
crossing the road, under the feet of the oxen. It was a
novel sight to see him twining his clumsy body upon the
sand, which he did with a scraping noise. The Hotten-
tots were extremely eager to pursue and destroy him ;
but to approach this serpent is dangerous, as, by throwing
himself backward, he is sure to wound any object near
him. He would have escaped, but for the gun being
ready loaded. He was about three feet long, and three
inches in diameter.
We made halt for half an hour, at Mr. Van Vyver's
farm, and proceeded across a flat country, covered with
heath and a few low bushes. Here we were amused by
the sight of some hundreds of springbocks, one of the
most elegant antelopes of this country. They stood in
parties of twenty or thirty together, and our sportsmen
were all alive, endeavouring to approach near enough to
make sure of their aim. But all attempts were vain.
The bucks suffered them to approach to within gun-shot,
when they set off full speed, leaping sometimes over each
other. They bounded along, in a species of dance,
springing with all four feet at once from the ground, then,
swiftly facing about, surveyed their pursuers. Sixteen
shot were fired at them, but not in a single instance did
it appear that one had been wounded.
This afforded me great pleasure, for as we had no dogs
to run down and secure any one that might have had a
230 JOURNAL OF A
leg broken, or been otherwise hurt, it must have given
pain to any feeling mind to know, that the poor animal
was lamed, and grievously suffering, without benefit to
us, and would most Hkely be made the prey of some
cruel, ravenous beast. Could we have obtained one of
them for our subsistence, the killing of it would have
been excusable. The shot fired contributed, though not
to our gain, yet to our pleasure, for it set them in motion,
and the swiftness and elegance of their movements were
well worth observing. Nor did we fail altogether, for
Brother Schmitt brought down a wild peahen, which in-
creased our stock of provisions. It was a beautiful bird,
though not equal to the cock in brilliancy of colour, be-
ing chiefly of a brownish gray and black.
At night, we arrived at Cornelius Engelbrecht's farm.
The old man w^as not at home, and the family, consisting
of several young men and women, hardly bid us welcome,
but suffered us to put up our tent on their dirty werft.
We placed it between the wagons, and after a dish of
coffee, went to rest, intending to set out as early as possi-
ble in the morning. About one o'clock, I was waked by
a snuffling and bellowing noise close to the tent. In a
short time all were roused from sleep, by the frightful
roar of a bull, which, having broke out of the kraal, was
parading up and down the werft. Sister Schmitt rising
and looking out, saw him coming straight towards us.
He pushed on between the wagon and tent, and had his
feet got entangled in the tent-ropes, the overthrow of our
dormitory, and perhaps worse mischief, might have been
the consequence. The whole place was soon in an up-
roar. All the oxen in the kraal, availing themselves of
the breach made by the bull, went off full trot into the
wilderness. Our oxen did not stay behind. All the
young men were up^ shouting and hallooing, calling the
slaves, and, as the whole herd rushed with great impe-
tuosity by the tent, they had the kindness to order them
to be kept off, lest we should be overrun. The sheep
and goats in an adjoining kraal, whether from fright, or
envying the horned cattle their happy escape, bleated
aloud, the dogs barked, the children screamed, and even
the geese and ducks joined in the horrible concert. This
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 231
hubbub lasted for more than two hours, and when we
arose, in the morning of the
17th, Not an ox was to be seen, far or near. Men were
sent in every direction, but it was nine o'clock before our
cattle were brought back. Meanwhile the young people
had grown more friendly, and inquired for Gnadenthal
knives, called Boschlemmer.
Being anxious to get across the Zuurberg before dark,
we thanked God, that the weather remained fine and clear,
and about noon reached the same valley, which had
been consecrated by our Good-Friday's service. But
now we found the brook perfectly dry. The poor thirsty
oxen, as soon as unyoked, rushed towards it, and thrust
their noses into the reeds, which filled its bed ; first into
one place, then into another, where they hoped to find
water, but in vain. They then lifted up their heads in
bitter disappointment, and bellowed forth their com-
plaints. Having sent our people to the old forsaken
kraal, to search for water, to our great joy a pond was
discovered, with fresh water in abundance. When driven
to it, the oxen could hardly leave off drinking. Mean-
w^hile the wind rose, and before we arrived at the top
of the mountain, it blew^ a hard gale. We therefore hur-
ried down the other side into the woods.
Having left the wagon, I walked down the steep decli-
vity with Mr. Melville, at a little distance from the road ;
he, in search of plants, and I, examining the stones.
Having discovered some small crystals in a vein of quartz,
I took up the stone, and feeling something soft under my
thumb, turned it up, to see what it was. I found that I
was pressing upon a young tarantula, about the size of
a halfpenny. Its legs, which were chequered with brown
and white, were doubled under its body, the creatwro be-
ing probably asleep. I shook it off, and called my friend to
inform me what sort of a spider I had encountered, when
he congratulated me on my having escaped its bite. I
felt, in truth, thankful to God for niy preservation. We
descended till we arrived at a snug place, enclosed with
high trees and bushes, where we pitched our tent, and
made two large fires, partly with a view to keep off' wild
beasts, with which these forests abound* Our weary
.232 JOURNAL OF A
oxen found good grass and some water in pools, and we
suffered them to feed for two hours. They were then
tethered to the wagons, for security's sake, but disturbed
us much during the night. Some needless alarm had
also seized our people, as to danger from CafFre thieves,
who were said to be hid in the woods. We commended
ourselves, with full trust, to the mercy and protection of
our Almighty Preserver.
I8th. We set off early, and at the place where, in the
late Caffre war, the Caffres had their principal camp, we
met five wagons with a detachment of infantry, going to
establish a military post on the Boschberg. At Sand
Vlachte, neither bread nor milk was to be procured, the
soldiers having consumed the whole stock. After a short
stay, we pushed on to Kourney, where we arrived at
four o'clock, and resolved to spend the night. Mr. and
Mrs. Osterhuysen received us with their usual friendship
and hospitality.
Our Hottentots having expressed a desire to see the
valley of the Witte Revier, we held a consultation with
them in the tent, to contrive how they, with Brother
Stein and Sister Schmitt, might accomplish it. We wish-
ed our people to judge of the fitness of the place by their
own observation, as much depended upon the report
they might make to their brethren, on their return to
Gnadenthal.
19th. We rose about five o'clock, and after another
conference, resolved, that as our oxen were too much
fatigued to undertake the journey, Mr. Osterhuysen
should furnish a spann, which should convey the above-
mentioned party to the Witte Revier, while Mr. Melville,
with myself, Leonhard Paerl, and Johannes, should pro-
ceed straight to Uitenhagen.
During the night, three elephants had entered the of-
ficer's garden, at the bottom of the eminence on which
the farm was situated, and demolished nearly all the pro-
duce. They had pushed down the gate and a fig-tree
near it, trampled upon several beds of onions and cabba"
ges, eaten what they liked, and marched off through the
fence, towards a pool of water. Captain Terrey, who
commanded here, walked with Mr. Melville and me
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 233
^ through the garden and fig-orchard, where we measured
the diameter of their round foot-marks. They were of
three different sizes, of fourteen, ten, and eight inches in
diameter, the latter probably of a calf. Having break-
fasted with the captain, we set out and took the road to
the Ados Drift, on Sunday's river. By the way, we saw
abundant traces of recent works of elephants, trees
pushed down or pulled up by the roots, and near the
road a great quantity of fresh dung, as likewise a large
thorn-tree, with a stem nearly a foot in diameter, stand-
ing topsy-turvy, on its crown, with only one large root,
at the top, all the smaller being devoured, as well as the
more tender parts of the bush and the leaves.
At noon we reached some hovels near the drift, where
we found a slave, a Hottentot woman, and a few children,
got some milk and butter, and a miserable dinner. Our
few biscuits were spoiled by a poisonous lizard, which
had crept into the basket, and were given to the hungry
dogs. Near the place lay the horns of a large koodoo,
with the tips cut off to make tobacco-pipes. I had hoped
to have gained an opportunity of examining the steep
banks of the river, but now saw with concern that I
could not possibly reach the limestone-rocks on the oppo-
site shore. They have many extraneous fossils imbedded
in them. We found the ford very practicable, and in
the evening, sought shelter from drizzling rain, behind a
bush of speckboom, where we got a good night's rest in
the wagon.
> 20th. We set off early, got a little refreshment at
^Sandfonteyn and reached Uitenhagen about noon, where
'we were cordially received by Colonel Cuyler, and dined
with him, in company of Major Fraser, the deputy-land-
drost from Graham's-town, and two other officers.
Our company returned from the Witte Revier late at
night. — Their report was very satisfactory. The Hot-
tentots were much pleased with the situation, and decla-
red, that a settlement might be made there with every
convenience required by a Hottentot congregation, there
being much sweet grass, which, in their opinion, is a
point of the first consideration. They had with much
difficulty reached the Ados Drift yesterday night, and
234 JOURNAL OF A
spanned out among the bushes. Elephants and rhinoce-
roses had left so many traces of their existence in the
wood^ that they were not without apprehensions of be-
ing disturbed. In the morning early, they forded the
river, but the weariness of the oxen was so great, that
they could hardly creep along.
On leaving the Witte Revier, Brother Schmitt ad-
dressed the party on the aim of our visit, and prayed the
Lord, if it were His gracious will, to estabHsh here a
place, in which his name might be glorified. He then
opened the collection of Scripture-texts for every day in
the year, and the text which immediately presented itself
to his view, is so remarkable, that I cannot help quoting
it. — It was the r2th verse of the 33d chapter of Jeremi-
ah : " Again^ in this place^ which is desolate^ without man
and without beasts and in all the cities thereof^ shall be a ha-
bitation of shepherds^ causing their flocks to lie down.^^ We
pray, that with respect to this desolate spot also, this en-
couraging prediction may be fulfilled.
21st. During the day, our old friends, and several Hot-
tentots visited us. I called upon Colonel Cuyler, who
kindly furnished me with the needful orders for relays,
both through his district, and to George. The whole
party dined with Mr. Buchenrode, who approved himself
our true friend, both during our former and present
abode at Uitenhagen. Mr. Allen, the secretary, again
offered us every assistance in his power.
22d, We left Uitenhagen at nine oVlock, and at half
past three reached KafFre 'Kraal, Mr. Neukirch's farm,
on Van Staades' Revier, where w^e were again hospita-
bly treated. The charming glen and woods, through
which the river runs, delighted us anew; and finding
oxen ready, w^e proceeded, without much delay, to
Klaarefonteyn. Mr. Neukirch's brother received us
with expressions of much pleasure, and I found here time
and opportunity to continue my diary, with ink, made of
the leaves of the Wageboom. The process is simple.
The leaves, dvy or fresh, are boiled, with a rusty iron
nail, and a piece of sugar candy added, when the decoc-
tion becomes a fine black ink, used for wanting, dying,
or as a black-reviver. I purchased here from a poor te-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 235
vnant, a pair of buffaloe-cow horns, and Mr. Neuklrch
presented me with a beautiful pair of buschbock horns.
I was happy to be able to return his civiiitj, by giving
him an eight-bladed knife, which was greatly adaiired
and valued. He had a buffaloe calf in a kraal, with
other young cattle. Its hair looked very rough, and it
was said to be wild and unruly. Among the mountains,
there was much vivid lightning.
23d. On leaving Klaarefonteyn, we again very much
admired the beauties of that tract of country, called the
Galgenbosch, and the weather being fine, w^e beheld it to
great advantage. To the right of the road, and towards
the hills, the character of the country is truly singu-
lar.
About noon, w^e arrived at the Louri Revier, when
Mr. Melville and I, mounting our horses, crossed the ri-
er, and rode up to the farm-house, half a mile distant,
o pay a visit to the farmer, Mr. Van Roy, of whom we
ad heard a good character from the Neukirchs. I had
ikewise an intention of purchasing the horns of a buffa-
loe bull, which he had shot some days ago. Having an
opportunity of conveying such subjects of curiosity to
^England, I had begun to make a collection of the horns
k)f animals, peculiar to this country, which, with other cu-
riosities, I wished to present to the College of the United
[Brethren, at Nisky, in Saxony.
We found Mr. and Mrs. Van Roy at home, and well
.pleased with our visit. After some conversation, we in-
quired about the horns. He related, that about ten
idays ago, he had met with and shot at the buffaloe, in a
Iwood not far off, and wounded him in the leg. The ani-
mal fled, but being pursued and brought down by the
idogs, was shot a second time through the head. When
Mr. Van Roy showed us the head, he said, that he meant
to make a tobacco-pipe of the points of the horns. We
^expressed our regret, that so beautiful a pair of horns
should be destroyed in that way; but he replied, that it
would cost him five dollars to get a pipe of that kind.
[Mr. Melville, supposing him to Dioan that each horn
Iwould make one pipe, asked me, in English, Avhether I
would a'lve ten dollars for the head, to wliich I agreed.
236 JOURNAL OF A
On hearing this, the truly honest farmer exclaimed:—
*' Ten ! no, I said five would be required to get a tobac-
co-pipe, and I will take no more from that gentleman.'^
A slave was then set to work to cut off the superfluous
bone, and make it more portable. He now brought the
head of a bufFaloe cow, shot some time ago, and would
have given it into the bargain, but I paid him what I had
given for the first of the kind I purchased.
He invited us to stay and dine with him. Among other
questions respecting England, and English customs, he
laid a case before us, wishing to know how he was to
act, consistently with English law. One of his Hotten-
tots had shot his neighbour's bull, mistaking him in the
dark for a wild buffaloe. The neighbour required, that
he should pay the damage, which he refused, on the
ground that he had not shot it, and the Hottentot had
nothing to pay. We told him, that in England, a master
was responsible for the deeds of his servant^ and the
Hottentot having done it, while employed by him, and
with his gun, we thought, that he would get nothing by a
suit, but do best to compromise the affair, and pay for
the bull. He spoke as a friend to the English, but re-
gretted, that they were losing their popularity in the
colony, by taxation, and the mode of settling the quit-
rents. He thought it hard, that when a man had done
every thing in his power to improve his farm, by making
water-courses for irrigation, clearing land, &c. that those
very improvements should tell against him, and he be
charged a higher rent than his neighbour, who was an
indolent man, suffering his estate to go to decay, when,
in fact, it was better land, and more productive, and
therefore more able to bear the burden; " But," added
he, '^ we would bear taxation, if the English would only
keep a large military force in the country, as by that
means, we should obtain a ready sale for our corn and
other produce, and have wherewith to pay. But now
they are withdrawing their troops." As stanch friends
to our country and its Government, we heard this man's
very sensible remarks with concern, and wished, that
means niight be devised, consistent with the just and be-
nevolent disposition of our present administration, ta
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 237
grant relief, and make the occupation of this land by the
British, considered a blessing, and not a curse, as we
have sometimes heard it called.
We now returned to our encampment on the river,
and found that Brother Schmitt had meanwhile proceed-
ed with the baggage-wagon to the Chamtoos Wagendrift
on Klein Revier, whither we immediately followed, and
reached the ford about sunset. The farm-house was a
miserable hovel, and could not afford a lodging to our
party ; yet, as it lightened much, and threatened to rain,
we were desirous of obtaining better shelter than the
tent. After some search, we fixed upon a forsaken
blacksmith's shop, consisting of two small rooms, one
containing the forge and anvil, the other empty. We
got them well swept, and put down our mattresses.
Not feeling much disposed to sleep, I placed my desk
upon the anvil, and, seated upon a wooden block, conti-
nued writing, while my friends rested. It was a provi-
dential circumstance that I remained awake. The door
was made of rushes, fastened together with thongs, in a -fi|
slender frame, and had no lock. The rushes did not
reach to the top of the door-way, and I was twice dis-
turbed by a cat, scrambling up from the outside, and
jumping over into our dormitory. This, however, proved
a slight disturbance. About midnight, the bull and other
cattle broke out of the kraal, and the unruly beast came
bellowing up to the door, which he began to push about
with his horns. I was much alarmed, as very little force
was required to throw it down, when we should have had
a very troublesome guest in our quarters. Being afraid
to face him in the dark, 1 made some noise within, when
he took himself off, yet every now and then approaching
in his perambulations. I therefore immediately fell to
work, to make a fastening to the door, with a piece of
iron, found in the forge, which I worked into the wall,
and tied to the door with a strong thong. Yet, after all
these precautions, I hardly ventured to lie down. Be-
tween four and five in the morning, two thunder storms,
with heavy rain, passed successively over us, and we
were thankful for the shelter w^e had found. Thcvfo!-
238 JOURNAL OF A
lowed the course of the Chamtoos Revier from north to
south.
24th. The Klein Revier farm, mentioned above, as re-
commended to me both by the Colonial Secretary, and
the landdrost of Uitenhagen, as a place suitable for a
missionary establishment, lies about two or three En-
glish miles from the Chamtoos Wagendrift, in the hills,
higher up the river. Though a farmer had applied for
it, and it was therefore contrary to our views to take ad-
vantage of his not having obtained a grant, yet I felt it
my duty to go and look at it, both that it might not ap-
pear as if we w^ere indifferent to the kindness that had
dictated the offer, and that I might obtain more informa-
tion on the spot, respecting the intentions of the present
claimant. After breakfast, therefore, I rode with Bro-
ther Schmitt and Marcus to the place, our host very ci-
villy accompanying us. Brother Stein, and Lebrecht
Aris followed on foot. We crossed the Klein Revier at
two fords. The vale is full of bushes and large timber,
and pleased us much. The hills on each side are not
high, and covered with wood to their summits. Large
thorn-bushes occupy the greatest part of the banks of the
river. Tall Geelhoutboom trees and other ever-greens
exhibited some fine forest scenery. As we approached the
place, we met the farmer going with some Hottentots to
cut down bushes, and open a better way from the drift.
He sent his men on, ana returned with us. The dwell-
ing-house was on a rising ground, and little better
than a Hottentot bondhoek. A hut stood near it, and
these two miserable tenements contained at present the
whole family. The farnier's wife appeared to be a sen-
sible and civil woman, and presented us with all her
house afforded, sweet milk. The vale is not to be com-
pared with that on the Witte Revier, either for extent,
fertility, or beauty, but the Klein Revier is a clear, ever
flowing, rapid stream.
On our return, we were accompanied by the farmer,
to whom, however, we did not explain the aim of our
visit. The strata of red rocks, forming the western bank
of the Chamtoos Revier, have a striking appearance, of
Avhich, during our absence, Mr. Melville had made a
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 239
drawing. We had to wait till noon, before the oxen
were sent, according to order, to put us Ibrward on our
journey, when we got well through the Wagondrift, the
ford of the Chamtoos river, and the Soute Kloof, and
passing by Mr. Simon Fereira's farm, arr-ived at night
at a farm-house called the Ausilucht, (Emigration,) wliere
we were accommodated with a chamber. Mr. Melvilh?
went with the young farmer to the gardens, lying at a
little distance, to hunt porcupines, which is done by
night; but none made their appearance.
25th. Before we set out, I took a walk with Mr, Mel-
ville into the garden, where the dogs had killed one of
these singular animals. We left this place at eight, called
at Mr. Miller's farm, and provided ourselves with a sup-
ply of necessaries.
Between this and Essenbosch, we met Mr. Akkerraan,
who returned with us, that he might not lose the bargain
he proposed to himself, by selling us a spann of oxen,
accordmg to a former oiler. By the way, we dined in a
pleasant valley, under some trees. At Essenbosch we
staid but a short time, to purchase some wheaten bread,
and a rehbock antelope, shot by a Hottentot lad, for
which he asked a dollar and a half. Brother Schmitt
proposed to him to take a boschlemmer knife instead of
the money, lest he should spend the latter in brandy,
and lose all advantage of his day's work. Our Hotten-
tots likewise urged him to take the knife, which, after
long demur, he agreed to; but, still undetermined, fum-
bled about, and among several knives, could not find
one to suit his fancy, while his sheepish, suspicious looks,
and confusion in examining the knives, allbrded much
merriment to his countrymen. At last, he chose the worst,
and sneaked off, with silent murmurs at not having turn-
ed the rehbock into brandy.
We had no time to pay a farewell-visit to the lady
on the other side of the glen, (p. 189,) but after a tedious
ride in the dark, along the Kromm Revier, and throu^I
some deep ravines, reached a farm-house, pitched
our tent near it, and enjoyed a quiet niglit's n^st. It
lightened much in the east and north.
2Gth. We set out before daybreak. It was a clear,
210 JOURNAL OF A
autumnal morning. The high peaked hills, to our leilt*
had emerged from the dark mists, which surrounded
them last night, and the sun broke forth with splendour.
The farm we had just left was forsaken by the former
possessor, who declared himself unable to pay the new
duties, charges for measurement, and high quit rents.
Another farm in the neighbourhood, was forsaken by the
husband of the lady of Essenbosch, for the same reason.
These effects of the present system seem to demand a
revision of the mode of carrying it into execution, which
so many farmers, in the interior, assert to be done, with-
out due discrimination or knowledge of local circumstan-
ces. We trust, that, as his Excellency the Governor is
about to undertake a journey to the frontier, he will hear
and judge for himself, how far these repeated complaints
are well founded; for it is to be supposed, that as all
innovation is generally resisted by uninstructed people,
many may too soon have taken the alarm.
After a pleasant ride through the Kromm Revier Val-
ley, we reached Jagersbosch, Mr. Akkerman's farm,
about nine o'clock. Mr. Melville had rode on to farmer
Marcus, to procure oxen.
27th. Mr. Akkerman's house was full of people. Some
were sick, and every thing within the wretched rooms
looked very uncomfortable. Sister Schmitt therefore
prepared breakfast for us in front of the house. After
some time, Mr. Akkerman's oxen arrived, and Brother
Schmitt, assisted by our Hottentots, chose ten of them,
for which, as they were picked, we paid what was asked,
viz. two hundred and fifty dollars. Mr, Akkerman was
satisfied to receive part of this sum in Gnadenthal knives,
which, being a very saleable article, would leave him a
further profit. The Hottentot, mentioned above, who
had killed and skinned the tyger during our former visit,
bad not forgotten my promise to purchase the skin, in
case he tanned it properly. It was well done, and a
beautiful skin. I gave the poor fellow the sum he asked
and richly deserved.
Lebrecht Aris being appointed driver of the new-pur-
chased oxen, we set out. The road along the Kromm
Revier is a succession of ups and downs, on a sloping
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 241
bank, which, in some places, renders travelling danger-
ous, on account of the sudden descent towards th \er.
The scenery is, in many parts, singular, and a few spots
appear fertile, especially where the vale widens.
Mr. Mey's farm, our next station, laj at the head of
the river, in a dreary glen. He is a German by birth.
Mr. Melville was here, and having provided one spann
of oxen, called to us to come down from the road, to see
the place. The dwelling was miserable, with a car-
penter's shop adjoining, but the people were friendly.
No other spann arriving, we were obliged to employ the
oxen we had purchased this morning. Among them
w^ere two or three, which never before had submitted to
the yoke. They now expressed their objections to serve
the lords of the creation, in a manner that endangered
the safety both of our wagons and persons. But here,
the superior courage and skill of Hottentots, in the treat-
ment of oxen, were manifest. They would not hear of
permitting the unruly beasts quietly to follow, but, by
dint of perseverance, at length brought them all to the
yoke. Herein, they were assisted by the habits of the
oxen themselves. Though they ran about, tossing their
heads, and kicking furiously, and it sometimes seemed
as if they would escape altogether, yet they were made
to return, by driving two or three tame ones after them,
whom they immediately joined ; w^hen, taking no particu-
lar notice of the wild, and the tame ones being easily
driven back to the wagon, the wild followed quietly, and
were again caught, by passing a thong with a loop round
their horns. Though they now threatened to run upon
the person holding them, and more than once got loose,
yet, by a repetition of the same stratagem, they were at
length subdued, and stood still. When urged forward,
feeling the yoke, they resisted so much, that the other
spann was sent down to assist their refractory compa-
nions, and after much hallooing, cracking of whips, and
lashing, the wagons w^ere at length brought to the top
of the hill.
By this delay, we did not reach Ellandsfonteyn till
long after sunset, but were received with civility by Mr.
31
2i2 JOURNx\L OP A
Piet Fereira and his wife, and permitted to spread our
bedding on the floor of the vorhaus, or hall.
28th, The poor German farmer, Mey, having witness-
ed the trouble we had with our oxen yesterday evening,
of his own accord sent four tame, and, as they are here
called, learned oxen, to our assistance, with which we
proceeded, passing over the spot where, on the 29th of
March, one of our wagons overturned. We remember-
ed, with thankfulness, the merciful preservation then ex-
perienced, and rejoiced with Brother Stein, that, except
in some degree of weakness, he no longer felt the injury
done to his arm. When we reached Olivier's farm, it
was with difficulty that we prevailed on Mr. Mey to
accept of some remuneration for the loan of his beasts.
I gave him a certificate for two spanns, which he justly
deserved, for, without his assistance, we should not have
been able to proceed with our own oxen, without much
trouble and delay. Fresh oxen being soon procured,
we passed by two farms in the Lange Kloof. At one of
them. Brother Schmitt and I endeavoured to gain en-
trance, but a broad sheet of water prevented us. The
people called out from the opposite side, desiring that
we would come over with the wagons, but wishing to
reach Kliphubel, before it grew dark, we thanked them
for their kind offer, and pushed on as fast as our weary
cattle would bear it.
On our arrival, we met with a very dry reception.
Card-playing occupied the attention of the family, and
an officer of dragoons, contrary to the general practice
of the military, bestowed no kind of attention upon his
countrymen. No invitation was given, nor any assist-
ance offered. Pitching our tent upon the werft could
not well be refused, but we were left to get fuel where
we could find it, and to cook our own victuals. Though,
in general, we were most happy and independent in our
tent, yet we could not but feel the affront as intended;
and the night being very cold, it proved injurious to
Sister Schmitt's health. Meanwhile, the Veldcornet's
house rang with mirth and jollity. A miserable flute
whistled in accompaniment to the heels of the merry
party, the clatter of which disturbed our night's rest
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 243
almost as much as the tournament performed by the
bull and his associates at Engelbrecht's, in Bruntjes
Hoogte.
28th. While we were at breakfast, we had the ho-
nour of a visit from our ungracious host. He came with
his pipe in his mouth, and squatting down on the ground,
commenced a conversation on various subjects. But he
seemed principally to wish to know, whether we had
found a place suitable for a settlement. He was told,
that we had seen several, but fixed on none. He then
surveyed the wagons, observed, that they were wel!
constructed for a long journey, and made a great merit
of putting us forward immediately, with two spanns of
cows. His slaves and domestics, by his own order,
durst not take any notice of, or assist us, and the En-
glish officer afterwards pretended to say, that he had
not known that Englishmen were on the werft, though
he had spoken with both Mr. Melville and me.
CHAPTER XV.
Departure from KliphubeL Instance of persecution. Bru-
tality of a boor. Avantur. Civility of Mr. Zondag and
his family. Bush-cats. JVighfs lodging at Veldcornet
Rendsberg'^s. Eseljagd'^s Revier. Hartebeest-hoiise at
David Friers farm. Runaway slave. Delay at Great
Dorn Revier. Unsuccessful attempt in surgery. Sajran'^s
Revier. •Attaqua'^s Kloof. Caverns. Saffranskraal.
German farmer and his baboon^ at Groote Pacrdekraal.
We left Kliphubel about nine o'clock, and found the
cows to perform their duty with great alacrity. As we
were passing slowly over a hill, we saw a woman mak-
ing towards us, across the heath. When she reached
the wagons, she appeared alwiost convulsed with weep-
ing, and we could scarcely pacify her, so as to make her
speech intelligible. She said, that she was the most
miserable of beings, a slave, and sold by the Veldcornet,
whom we had just left, to a neighbouring boor- because
244 JOURNAL OF A
she went to hear the word of God. The boor himself
was a riioderate man, but his wife a most inveterate
enemj of the gospel, who beat her slaves and depend-
ants, if tbej showed any disposition that way. That,
hovi^ever. was not the worst, but her son and daughter-
in-law, were hkewise slaves to the Veldcornet, and to
be sold on account of their love of religion, especially as
her son spoke to the other slaves. They were to be
separated from each other, the husband being disposed
of to one, and the wife to another farmer, living at a
distance from each other; that the thoughts of it made
her distracted, and she spent her time running to and
fro among the bushes, crying to God for mercy, but that,
if she, or any other slaves, were found kneehng behind a
bush in prayer, they were sure to be unmercifully treated.
We spoke to her in as consoling a manner as we could,
encouraged her to persevere in crying to the Lord for de-
liverance from such distress, and for the conversion of her
mistress and other enemies of His word, and meanwhile
to be faithful and diligent in her service. As she seemed
to lay a great stress upon kneeling, and to think that the
only posture of body in which prayer could be made
acceptably, we told her, that our Saviour was every
where and at all times present and ready to hear the cry
that proceeded from the heart, whether she was at work,
in the house, or field, sitting or standing, or in any other
attitude, and that no authority or circumstance could
prevent the heart from holding communion with God ;
but that He had foretold His disciples, that they would
be hated and persecuted for His name's sake. It must
therefore be expected, and we have to look to Him alone,
for that peace, which He promised to them in the midst
of the tribulations of this world. The poor woman
seemed to take comfort, and to be truly in earnest in
seeking the salvation of her soul. By this circumstance,
we gained some insight into the cause of our treatment
last night, when we were shut out, as being engaged with
missionary affairs, not to mention the inconvenience and
disturbance which might have been occasioned to the
hop, by the intrusion of such grave faces. We reaped,
however, a \ery essential advantage from Mr. F.'s aver-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 245
sion to such company, for he was the more ready to help
us oflfhis premises, and his cows carried us, with great
speed, to a farm belonging to a Mr. H. The master be-
ing absent, we were very civilly treated by his black
slave, and soon provided with tvvo spanns of oxen, to
bring us forward to Mr. Zondag's farm, at Avantur.
During the short time of our stay at Mr. H.'s misera-
ble place, Mr. Melville had the unexpected pleasure of
meeting with an officer in the Cape regiment, who had
been his school-fellow. Strolling about the premises, I
noticed a trap-flur, better built, and larger than any I had
yet seen. This is a circular piece of ground, surrounded
by alowwall, and made as hard as a threshing floor, in-
to which the corn is put, and the grain trodden out by
from ten to twenty or more horses, driven round it in a
sharp trot. Whether this is a mode better calculated to
secure the crop than threshing, or a barbarous, wasteful
custom, founded on prejudice, the straw being thus de-
stroyed and lost, I leave better judges to determine.
All the other buildings in this farm were wretched huts,
and the premises covered with filth, and the remnants of
carcasses, as is too generally the case in this country. Yet
the proprietor was possessed of what many English gen-
tlemen cannot boast. He had been at the funeral of a
neighbour's child, unfortunately burnt to death, and met
us on the road in his state-wagon, drawn by six beautiful
horses of equal size and colour, driven by himself In-
stead of greeting us, he jumped off the box, and demand-
ed of his black lad, what business he had to give us
Vorspann. The poor slave had hardly time to reply,
that he had acted conformably to his own commands, to
furnish Vorspann in his absence, if ordered by the Veld-
cornet, when he put himself into a furious rage, attended
with hideous grimaces, so as to make himself truly ridicu-
lous, and threatening what he would do to his slave,
when he got home, mounted his box, without paying any
respect to our party, and drove off. The poor slave was
exceedingly terrified, told us, that his master was a cruel
tyrant, and would certainly give him a hard flogging on
his return, with the achter shambock, the thickest whip
cut out of the hippopotamus skin, and used to beat the
246 JOURNAL OF A
shaft-oxen with. In passing, we called on the friendly
family at Wellgelegen, who treated us with tea-water.
Here we found a dark-coloured man, who travels about
as a schoolmaster, to teach the farmers' children their
letters and a little ciphering, spending a few weeks at a
time at one place, then going to another, for the same
purpose, there being no schools in the country. Of
course, the proficiency made is very small, and hardly
sufficient to qualify the scholars for the most common
uses of reading, writing, and ciphering. To this want
of instruction must be ascribed the general state of igno-
rance prevailing, with few exceptions, among the inhabit-
ants of the interior. The schoolmaster was a very inqui-
sitive man, and a shrewd politician.
By the specimens we had just seen of the behaviour of
certain fanners in the Lange Kloof, we augured but un-
favourably of the reception we were likely to meet with
at Avantur, and afraid that we should be obliged to
spend a cold, windy night, in our tent ; but herein we
'were most agreeably disappointed. Nothing could ex-
ceed the cordial welcome we experienced from Mr.
Zondag. He stood like an ancient patriarch before his
door, and as w^e walked up to the house, held out
his hand, inviting us in the most friendly manner, to
enter, and make his house our home. His wife was
worthy of him, and in the kindest manner received Sis-
ter Schmitt and the whole party. Perhaps their friend-
liness and hospitality was rendered the more conspi-
cuous and gratifying, in contrast with the savage con-
duct of those we had left; but the general behaviour
of the Zondags towards all persons in the house, prov-
ed them to have benevolent dispositions. The children,
who were yet young, seemed to partake of the vir-
tues of their parents, and behaved with unaffected
good-will and confidence towards us. Two dragoons,
entering the room, came up to us, shook hands, and,
in lively terms, expressed their joy to see English faces,
and hear their own language spoken. They were civil,
well-bred young men. After much agreeable conver-
sation, we were entertained by looking over a large
Dutch bible, in folio, admirably well printed, and full
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 247
of good cuts, which was valued as the chief jewel in
the family. Little Peter, a favourite boy, was employed
to read some portions of its contents, which he did
well, but the want of schools in the country was much
lamented by the parents. That we might be the bet-
ter accommodated, Mr. and Mis. Zondag, unknown to
us, gave up their own room, and retired into the
dragoons' house to sleep. The latter went into the
garret.
29th. We seemed in no great hurry to leave so
agreeable a mansion, and did not set off till half past
nine. Meanwhile all kind of business was carrying
on. The slaves, and others wanted Gnadenthal knives,
which brother Schmitt furnished. A dragoon gave me
the skin of a bush-cat, shot a few days ago. This is
a fierce, but beautiful animal, about three feet and a
half long. It has a rougher skin, and a shorter tail
than the tyger. Its general colour is a brownish-yel-
low. From the forehead along the back, three jet-
black streaks run towards the tail ; the sides are mark-
ed with large single spots of the same colour ; the tail
has five black rings, and each ear two streaks. Broad
black bands descend a little way, in curved lines, down
the shoulders. It generally climbs trees, watching for
some unfortunate antelope or other creature to approach
for shade, or near enough to be sprung upon. Perceiv-
ing that I was much pleased with the skin, Mr. Zondag's
nephew brought me another still more beautiful, and
well dressed. I inquired of the other dragoon how I
might reward his comrade for his generosity, for he had
declined receiving any remuneration. He replied, that
as he was " a great writer," but could get no paper, and
was obliged to write on any odd scrap he could find on
the premises, some paper would be most acceptable. I
gave him half a quire of foolscap, and a few pencils and
pens, with which he seemed extremely delighted. Sister
Schmitt got here a supply of butter, apples, and other
necessaries, and we left this hospitable family with ex-
pressions of mutual esteem and affection. We were also
supplied with excellent oxen, and Marcus, without much
m
248 JOURNAL OF A
use of the whip, brought them frequently, on even road,
into a sharp trot.
Our next stage was Jacomima Barkhuis's farm, on
Kierboom's Revier. The family received us kindly, as
old acquaintances, and as the old lady pleaded inability
to furnish oxen, Mr. Zondag had permitted us, in that
case, to proceed with his spanns to the house of the
Veldcornet Michael Rendsberg, at Gaensekraal. We
again entered the premises with some suspicion, lest we
might be left to spend a cold night on the werft, but
though the house was full of company, we met with a
cordial welcome. The Veldcornet and his wife were
remarkably attentive to us. Coffee was served, and the
evening spent in lively and agreeable conversation be-
tween thoge who could speak Dutch.
An English dragoon, who had arrived from Kliphubel,
told us, that the manner in which we were received in
that place, had given much offence to our brave country-
men, but they durst not show their good-will towards
us, without their officer's leave. From hence, we in-
tended to go by the new-made road across the mountains
to George, but heard, to our sorrow, that the landdrost,
Mr. Van Kervel, had gone to Plettenberg Bay. We
therefore resolved to take the nearer road, by Attaqua's
kloof, and sent Johannes to George to bring the oxen we
had left in that place to the Gowritz river, where we
should join the main road.
30th. After breakfast. Brother Schmitt was requested
by Mrs. Rendsberg to deliver a discourse to their slaves
and Hottentots, which he did on the words of our Sa-
viour's parable; ^'' Go out into the highways and hedges^
and compel them to come in.^'^ He addressed both the
Christians and heathen present, in a serious and impres-
sive manner, for which the ladies in the family more
particularly expressed many thanks. The oxen fur-
nished here were small and weak, and brought us for-
ward but very slowly. We found ourselves encom-
passed with mountains of singular shapes, but, like the
country through which we passed, barren in the extreme.
Our dinner was cooked on the banks of the Eselsjagd
river, (or Zebra-hunting river,) which at present con-
VISIT Tp SOUTH AFRICA. 219^
sisted only of a few stagnant pools. After quitting this
place, we entered a narrow glen, bordered by ledges of
rocks, bushes of various kinds, and Wageboom-trees,
growing luxuriantly wherever any soil was left to sup-
port them. The large fragments of white quartz, co-
vered in some places with vermilion-coloured moss, and
the diversified tints, produced by the layers and masses of
ferruginous sand-stone, intermixed with the foliage of the
trees and bushes, gave to the whole a picturesque ap-
pearance. The road was very rough, till we emerged
from the kloof and got into the Karroo-field, so called
from its resemblance to the great Karroo. We had now
the mountains on the north side of the Oliphant's river
in view, with other ranges of higher or lower hills.
After a tedious ride through a flat country, covered
with rhinoceros-bushes, and here and there with aloes
and Wageboom, we arrived at a farm called Plaisir,
where the Veldcornet had advised us to stop, if it were
too late to reach Mr. Heyns's farm on Dorn Kevier. As
it was a light evening, we determined to proceed ; and
crossing the river, entered a kloof between low, heathy
hills. It lightened much, and the road was very uneven ;
and perceiving, that we could not well reach Dorn
Revier, we despatched old Leonhard to a farm called
Klippedrift, to announce our intention of honouring the
proprietor, David Frie, with our company. The road
to it was dreadfully bad, and in crossing a narrow ra-
vine, with a deep brook at the bottom, we were in some
danger of oversetting, but the good people came out
with lights, to show us the way to the house. The far^
mer immediately gave us the only room he could spare,
which was at one end of what is called a hartebeest
house, being a roof, put upon a wall about two feet in
height. But the building, though very small, was new,
and clean, with two bedsteads in it. Of these Brother
and Sister Schmitt occupied one, I the other, arwi Mr.
Melville the floor. Brother Stein put up with the only
vacant spot remaining, under the bedsteads. But we
were thankful to be under good cover. It lightened in-
cessantly; and during the night the s.torm passpd over
us, with loud thunder.
32
250 JOtJR^'AL OF A
May 1st. We rose early, the weather havino; cleareiJ
up, that we might reach Mr. Heyns's on Dorn Revier to
breakfast. A runaway slave, chained to a post in the
farmer's kitchen, was this morning sent forward to the
drosty for punishment. He belonged to a place at some
distance. In this manner, deserters are passed, from
one farm to the other, till they reach the prison. We
expressed to him our pity, and Brother Schmitt gave him
some good advice, but he seemed quite stupified. The
family behaved with great civility, and presented Sifter
Schmitt with a fine tortoise, and some eggs.
A pleasant morning's ride brought us to Great Dorn
Revier; but no Vorspann having arrived, we were de-
tained here all day. We found here a pleasant family,
and spent the day in writing, drawing, and other useful
employments. In the neighbourhood of this place, es-
pecially on some rocky hills to the south, many wild
horses are yet seen. 1 obtained the skin of one, in bar-
ter for some gunpowder. A Koodoo-skin was likewise
purchased for five rix-dollars. They are used for
lashes, and sold at a much higher price near the Cape.
Brother Stein had here an opportunity of serving some
of the family with medical advice, bled a black female
slave, and attempted to extract a tooth, which had lono;
tormented the mistress. But no sooner had he brought
his instrument to bear upon it, than she pushed him
away, leaving the tooth half-drawn ; nor would she suf-
fer him to finish his work, the bleeding of the lacerated
gum having brought her some relief No persuasion
from her wiser husband could prevail, to let him make a
second attempt.
Though the Vorsf)ann system was sometimes attended
with unforeseen delays, we generally contrived to make
good use of our time, nor did the people at this place
seem to wish to get rid of us. In the evening, the light-
ning was vivid all round the horizon. Our dormitory
was a lumber-room, with a mud-floor, where we enjoyed
a quiet night.
2d. After breakfast, we were glad to see two spanns
of oxen arrive for our use. The country through which
Ave passed, was one continued waste, thickly covered
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 251
With plants and bushes. Some species of the thorn-bush
and speckboom were new to me. In two hours, we ar-
rived at the Veldcornet Wolfran's farm, but made no
stay. He came out to us, and gave us a letter to the
farmer at Saffran's Revier to furnish us with fresh cattle,
as his were too voung and weak to take us through At-
taqua's Kloof. But when we arrived at that place, the
farmer pretended, that he had no oxen at home, though
the dragoons informed us, that he had enough (or
five spanns, but had driven them across the river, ag
soon as he saw our wagons coming down the hill. He
seemed to be completely under the control of his wile, a
woman of a most surly temper, who, when her more hos-
pitable daughter set a plate of apples before us, snatched
them angrily away, and would hardly allow us to eat our
own bread and butter under her roof. Mr. Barrow must
have encountered many of that description, when he
drew his picture of the African boors and their ladies.
We met with but few, for, in general, they treated us
with civility.
Near this place, I found some very singular fossils in
iron-stone, resembling screws, and in several places, the
stones were covered with a bituminous crust.
We perceived now, that the best way would be, quiet-
ly to move on, and to endeavour to work our way
through the kloof, with our weary oxen, as well as we
could. Having reached the first steep ascent, we left
the wagons, and, by a foot-path, joined the road on the
other side of the hill. Here we rested long, before the
wagons overtook us. Some curiows caverns attracting-
our attention, we entered them. By some foot-marks in
the sand, we perceived, that they afforded retreat to
tyger-cats. They also provided shelters for travellers
in rainy weather, there being here an outspann-place,
and fireplaces made under the overhanging rocks. For-
getting the caution I had prescribed to myself, when I
touched a tarantula spider, on the Zuurberg, I lifted up
a stone to examine it, and saw a young scorpion lying
under it. I was thankful that I had escaped putting my
hand upon it. Finding it impossible to reach any habir
tation to-night, the weather bejog very dark and cloudy,
252 JOURNAL OF A
and seeing a fire on the mountain, we made towards it.
It had been kindled by Lebrecht Aris, who had brought
our purchased oxen thus far, and was preparing to rest
here. We put up our tent, and though somewhat an-
noyed by passing mists, commended ourselves to the
protection of God, and spent a very quiet night in this
wild place.
3d. Brother Stein, thinking the morning about to
dawn, at half past three roused us out of a sound sleep,
and announced the day. Though unnecessarily disturb-
ed, we took advantage of it, and prepared for our depar-
ture. When it grew light, we saw high peaked moun-
tains to our left, and found ourselves in a romantic situ-
ation. It was six o'clock before we set off. As we pro-
ceeded, we were surrounded by rocky eminences of con-
siderable height, and the views became still more inte-
resting, especially when we reached the highest part of
the kloof, where the mountains exhibited very singular
scenery.
Mr. Melville and I were so long engaged in drawing,
that we could not overtake the wagons, and were obliged
to walk the whole way to the next farm, a distance of
little less than ten English miles. Mr. Rutter, the pro-
prietor of the Groote Paerdekraal, is a German by birth.
His house lies about a field's length from the road, and
both he and his wife received us most civilly. Indeed,
our visit seemed to put him into high spirits. Though
seventy-five years old, he was remarkably strong and
lively, and full of merry jokes. I felt at first much fa-
tigued, but soon recovered. Our host came from the
neighbourhood of Gotha in Saxony, and had been pre-
sent at the building of the settlement of the Brethren in
that neighbourhood, called Neudietendorf, of which he
gave us an entertaining account, according to the notions
he had formed of its institutions, though not quite like
those of Madam de Stael. He related also some part of
his own history, and the manner in which he had been
decoyed at Amsterdam by a Dutch crimp, and brought at
last as a soldier to the Cape. Our having noticed a
tame baboon on his promises, led him to tell us the fol-
lowing story : Doing duty at the castle at Capetown, he
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 253
kept one of these comical animals for his amusement.
One evening, some boys and girls entered the place where
it was confined, and played with it, unknown to him, till
it broke its chain. In the night, climbing up into the bel-
fry, it began to play with and ring the bell. Immedi-
ately the whole place was in an uproar : some great
danger was apprehended. Many thought, that the cas-
tle was on fire, others, that an enemy had entered the
bay, and the soldiers began to turn out, when it w^as dis-
covered, that his baboon had caused the disturbance.
On the following morning, a court-martial was held, when
Cape justice dictated, that w^iereas Master Rutter's ba-
boon had unnecessarily put the castle into a state of
alarm, its master should receive fifty Jashes : ^' but,'' ad-
ded he, " among these mountains, and under British go-
vernment, I hope, that my baboon and I may make as
much noise as we please, without either of us endanger-
ing his back."
Brother Schmitt, struck with the general levity of thfs
honest man's manner, began to speak seriously with him
about his advanced age, and observed, that though he
was blessed with such good health and flow of spirits, it
was high time to think of the approach of death. He
replied, that as to religion, he understood more about it
than all the people that travelled that way, and would
immediately enter the lists with him, to prove, that the
Lutheran faith was the right one* Having brought three
or four quarto volumes from an adjoining room, he de-
clared, that he had read them all through, and by them
could settle any dispute. Brother Schmitt declined all
dispute, and wished only to impress upon his mind the
necessity of true conversion of heart and assurance of
acceptance with God, through the merits of Jesus Christ.
But the old man either would, or could not understand
him, and turned the conversation to other subjects.
Our cattle were completely fatigued, and Mr. Rutter
obliged us much, by sending for two spanns, and putting
us forward, w^ithout an express order from the Veldcor-
net. The road from the Groote Paerdekraal led through
a very rough cou-ntry, to the Haagekraal. That part of
the mountains which will admit of any verdure, is well
254 JOURNAL OF A
covered with it. Wageboom is frequent, and in other
places, the sugar-bush, being now in full flower, adorned
the slopes of the hills, with great splendour. At six we
reached Haagekraal, and though the proprietors, Mr.
and Mrs. Meyer, were not at home, their son gave us a
hearty welcome. The night turned out windy and rainy,
and we were again thankful to be under shelter.
Our driver Marcus, who had expressed much joy at
our resolution to pass this way, as it would give him an
opportunity of once more seeing his aged father, who
was a hundred and four years old, was, to our sorrow,
disappointed ; being informed, that the old man and hi$
wife were gone to see his sick sister, at the missionary
institution at Hoogte Kraal, near George ; but he spent
the evening with another of his sisters, and her four
children.
CHAPTER XVL
Haagekraal Account of Wild horses. Gowritz Revier.
Meeting with Johannes from George. Baboons. Irish
hospitality. Klein Vat Revier. Turbulent housewife.
Pass the farms of Messrs. Du Preez and Lombard. The
family at Schlangen Revier going " op de tocht.'^^ Bunte-
bock antelopes. Dangerous ford. Reach Zwellendam.
Church-affairs. Mr. Koster^ an independent missionary.
Heavy ruins. Ferry over the Breede Revier. Mr. Hei-
mane's account of icild Buffaloes. Manner of crossing the
river. Mr. Van Helsland. The plant Vlachdorn. Ar-
rival at Gnadenthal.
May 4th. The Haagekraal farm lies pleasantly on a
green, surrounded by low hills, and watered by a large
brook. The proprietor is brother to Mr. Meyer of Har-
tenbosch, near Mossel Bay, with whom we found such
pleasant accommodations.
We met here the son of our merry host at Groote
Paerdekraal. Speaking of the singular situation of his
father's house, he told some curious anecdotes of the
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 255
wild horses in the Attaqaa's Kloof. He once followed
a young filly of that description, and had nearly come
up with it, when he was charged with great fury by the
wild stallion, and obliged to quit his horse. The stallion
seized the horse by the mane with his teeth, and threw
him down ; birt, satisfied with his victory, ran off wMth
the filly. Both the wild horse, and even the quagga,
are a match for the tame horse, but do not easily corh-
nience an attack. There are also ellands in the moun-
tains ; but, besides rehbocks and a few bushbocks, very
little game is seen in the plain. ^
The rain, which still continued to fall now and then
•in drizzling showers, made the roads so slippery, that
the oxen could scarcely drag the wagons up any ascent^
and w^e were thankful that this weather had not over-
taken us while we were yet in the kloof. After a ride
of three hours through a dull and naked country, we
descended into a glen called HunyklifF Kloof. On an
eminence to the left, lies a farm, belonging to a German of
the name of Krieg. He received us kindly, and insisted
on our partaking of his dinner, which was just ready to
be served up. Never have I rehshed a dish of bean-soup
more than in this forlorn place. To me it was quite
new. This man had travelled through a great part of
the north of Europe, and was at length persuaded by
some crimps at Hamburg, to enter into the Dutch East-
India Company's service. He described the situation of
their sailors to have been most deplorable, and the atten-
tion paid to their health and comfort so deficient, that no
less than one hundred and forty men had died on board
the ship he served in, during the voyage. He was thank-
ful to be released by being left at the Cape in the sick-
house ; and by degrees recovering, his industry put him
in possession of this erf^ a name given to a small lot of
ground, not being a complete farm. I purchased of him
a hat, made by one of his slaves, of a Water-plant called
palmite, which was an excellent piece of workmanship.
We left this hospitable cottage about two o'clock, and
continued our route through the glen to the Gowritz
river. Brother Schmitt, Stein^ and I, walked to the
farm-house, about a musket shot from the road, and
^56 JOURNAL OF A.
found a friendly family at dinner, who immediately in-^
vited us to partake of their humble meal, but we had
dined. They seemed to be poor people, and the object
of our visit was not attained. We could purchase neither
butter, fowls, eggs, nor a spann of oxen. The latter
were dearer by five dollars per head than in Uitenhagen
district. On reaching the banks of the river, we over-
took Lebrecht Aris with our new purchase, and on the
river side, saw Johannes coming across the heath with
the oxen left at George.
He brought me a most obliging letter from Mr. Van
Kervel, regretting his absence in Plettenberg Bay, and
desiring, that if we returned by George, we would con-
sider his house as our home. This he had left with the
secretary, Mr. Stopforth, to be delivered to me at my
expected arrival at George. The cattle-keeper had
suffered our Gnadenthal oxen to stray, and Johannes
was obliged to follow five of them as far as Kayman's
Gat. Not far from us, on the steep bank of the river, be-
tween twenty and thirty baboons, large and small, sat
watching our movements. Marcus approached towards
them, cracking his long whip, when the old dams took up
their young, some in their mouths, others on their backs,
and all scrambled up the steep with astonishing swiftness.
Some had one young one in their mouth, and another
sitting on their backs.
The shores of the Gowritz river are covered with
bushes, for about two miles in breadth. Many large
aloes mixed with, and rising above them, showed their
magnificent radiant crown of scarlet flowers to much ad-
vantage. In the evening, by moonlight, we reached Mr.
Lombard's farm, where we meant to take up our night's
lodging. We went to the house, in which we heard
laughing, clapping of hands, and other tokens of merri-
ment. Our humble knock was often repeated, before it
procured us admission. Now general silence ensued.
After giving a proper account of ourselves, we requested
to know, whether we might have a room to sleep in,
which was answered in the affirmative, yet with hesita-
tion enough to prove, that we were not welcome guests.
This was also plainly to be traced in the countenances of
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA«
257
the women, who did not speak a word, but eyed us with
fallen looks, as intruders, spoiling sport, and perhaps dis-
turbing some family festivity. Hearing, therefore, that
the Veldcornet's house was only one hour's distance, and
the moon shining bright, we determined to leave the
merry party to enjoy their frolics, and drove off. The
women could not dissemble their joy at our departure^
but dismissed us with a hearty horse-laugh.
We reached the Veldcornet's place about half past
nine, and accidentally stopped at the dwelling of his part-
ner, an Irishman, Mr. John Miller. Late as it was^ he
and his wife rose, and did every thing in their power to
show that we were welcome. Milk, dried peaches,
eggs, and cold meat, were provided, and an empty room
appropriated for our sleeping-place. Irish hospitality
was exerted in full vigour, even here in South Africa;
and if some of the Africans themselves were inoculated
with it, it would do them no harm*
5th. After a quiet night's rest, we found oxen provi-
ded by the Veldcornet, got breakfast, paid a visit to the
latter in his own house, and procured several articles of
provision for ourselves and our Hottentots. Our Irish
host left nothing undone, that he thought would be a
benefit to us. He has lived twenty-five years in this
country.
The mountains present here a very magnificent out-
line. They are crowned with rocks of singular forms.
Nothing particular occurred, till we reached the KafTre
Kuyls Revier, where we halted on its banks. Some of
us crossed the river, to visit the farmer, but he was ab-
sent, and his farm and mill in dirty plight. From hence,
passing by the farm of Mi\ Cobus Du rreez, we hastened
to the Veldcornet's place on the Klein Vat Revier. Our
reception by the men was civil, but the women behaved
towards Sister Schmitt and our whole party with de-
termined coolness. The mistress of the house had a
most stentorian voice, and in ordinary conversation kept
up a continual bawl. As the Veldcornet's brother pos-
sessed the same strength of lungs, the uproar was great,
while she at one table, and he at another, were exerting
their utmost powers to entertain their friends. It was
33
2j8 journal of a
a novel scene, and we retired into our chamber, stunned
with the noise ; but as it blew and rained hard all night,
we were thankful for a room, even in an inhospitable
dwelling.
6th. When we rose in the morning, no notice was
taken of us. Sister Schmitt, for once, did not succeed,
by her conciHating manners, in winning the affections of
the turbulent housewife. The dragoons, quartered here,
had a miserable hole to sleep in, and described the
Veldcornet's dislike of the English and of missionaries
to be very great.
Oxen having been ordered at the next station, we em-
ployed our two spanns, both of which had arrived during
the night, to convey us thither. The Hottentots had
again some trouble to make our young oxen submit to
the yoke, but managed it with their usual dexterity.
Wheii subdued, they behaved well, and notwithstanding
the rain had made the road, which was a greasy clay^
almost as slippery as ice, they brought us, about noon,
to the farm of our old friend, Mr. P. Du Preez. By the
way, we remembered our breakfast in the vale of v«U
tures, and several pleasant and useful conversations,
which passed between us, about two months ago. We
found a large party at the house, but not the worthy fa-
ther of the family. His son received us kindly, and we
were invited to dinner. The parents were gone to Zvvel-
lendam, to attend the sacrament.
A report having been spread, that the rivers had
swollen, we hastened to cross the Duivenhoeks Revier, at
Mr. Lombard's farm, which we did without any trouble.
Calling on our old friend, Mr. Lombard, he and his fami-
ly used all their eloquence to prevail upon us to spend the
night at their house, but as it was yet early, and feeling
impatient to get home, we made but a short stay; and
passing by the next farm, reached a place on the Schlan-
gen Revier after sunset, to which we repaired for lodg-
ings, the night being cold.
The master of the house, having purchased a quantity
of arrack from the wreck of the Arniston East-Indiaman,
stranded on the coast near Cape Aguillas, was about to
set off in the morning, on a trip into the interior, and to
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 259
Graaf Rejnet, to dispose of it, in barter lor oxen and
other articles of trade. Thej call this, going op de tocht.
Two wagons were ready packed, into which the family
had retreated, to be ready to start early in the morning.
The house, therefore, ^^as at our service, and, indeed, but
just large enough to hold us, without the family; for, be-
sides a little dark kitchen, in which lay tw^o or three
slaves, it had only two rooms, not much larger than clo-
sets. William Sluiter's psalm-book lying on a shelf, and
an old pewter coffee-pot, appeared to be the only move-
ables left in the house; for the few articles, which serve
them at home, were also their travelling equipage. We
did not see one of the family, to thank them for the use of
their house, as they were yet fast asleep in their wagons,
when we set out, before daybreak.
7th. We passed through a country, where formerly
that beautiful antelope, the buntebock, was found in great
numbers. The destruction made among them has caused
the Governor to prohibit the shooting of them, under a
penalty of five hundred rix-dollars. They are therefore
again multiplying, and we saw several of them, not far
from the road. They are very stately-looking animals.
Ostriches also made their appearance, and were followed,
but without success.
The mountains, to our right, being by degrees disen-
cumbered of clouds, afforded us a most agreeable pros-
pect. About two o'clock, we reached Mr. Buissini's
farm on the Bueffeljagd's Revier, and hoped to have been
able to get to Zwellendam that night ; but the river had
swollen, and was not fordable. The people treated us
with civility, and we spent the evening in a variety of
useful employments. Mr. Melville, however, anxious to
get home, and to meet his .family as soon as possible, left
us here, swam across the river with his horse, and pro-
ceeded through Zwellendam to Gnadenthal. The
wolves howled dreadfully, and we were afraid, lest our
oxen, running loose on the waste, might be attacked in
the night ; but on the
8th, Early, they were all brought safe to the yojie.
On examination, the river had fallen sufficiently to allow
260 JOURNAL OF A
US to venture to ford it. For about a quarter of a mile
in breadth its banks are covered with thorn, and other
bushes.
Every thing likely to suffer by wet being put upon the
seatsof the wagons, we entered the river. The passage
is not easily found by persons not acquainted with its bed,
as, unless an island in the midst of the stream is doubled
on the right side, there is danger of getting into deep
holes and oversetting. We were rather under some ap-
prehension, as to the strength of our cattle. The Gna-
denthal oxen in the baggage-wagon w^ere weak, and the
pew spann young, and not used to cross so large a river,
the stream of which was very rapid and strong. Mar-
cus also, having once, in crossing the Bueifeljagds Revier,
at this very place, overset, and lost seven oxen, express-
ed some fears ; but, by God's mercy, we reached the op-
posite shore in safety. Poor Rambler, our faithful dog,
who had been our companion and pet during this whole
journey, happened to be left behind, but swam across,
following the wagons by the same circuitous course round
the island. For this exertion, he was rewarded with a
larger portion of meat than usual. The weather con-
tinuing fair, w^e much enjojed the view of the Zwellen-
dam range of mountains, with their peaked, square, and
round tops, deep gullies, and w^oody kloofs, which ap-
peared to great advantage, illumined by a bright morn^
ing sun.
About noon we arrived at the drosty. The landdrost
and his lady received us w^ith their wonted kindness,
and, by their hospitality, made us feel quite at home with
them.
After dinner, we accompanied Mr. Buissini on a visit
to the clergyman, lately appointed to this living, who
but lately arrived from Holland. With him we went to
see the church. It is a convenient building, in form of
a cross, without a steeple. The organ, being but small,
and out of repair, stood in the vestry. Government
have not as yet done much towards the support of the
ecclesiastical establishment in this colony, of which many
complain, thinking it neither consistent with their usual
liberality, nor with that union, which, under British do^
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 261
minion, exists between church and state. I believe
it would tend much to concihate, and stop the mouths of
the disaffected, if the Government at home should think
fit to authorize more assistance to be given towards its
maintenance.
In the evening:, Brother Schmitt was desired to deliver
a discourse to the Hottentots and slaves belonging to
the family; which he did, much to their edification.
They expressed their gratitude in lively terms. The
moon shone bright till midnight, when, most unexpect-
edly, a storm of wind arose, black clouds covered the
mountains, and the w^eather underwent a total change.
9th. Our generous host and hostess insisted upon our
taking an English breakfast with them, before we left
Zwellendam, though we felt rather in haste to get across
the Breede Revier, before the heavy rain had swelled
its waters.
Having received every possible mark of attention from
the landdrost and his lady, w^e took leave about ten
o'clock. In passing, we called upon Mr. Koster, who
went out as a missionary under the direction of the Mis-
sionary Society in London, and had been both at Bethels-
dorp and Latakkun; but afterwards, with a view to a
more independent maintenance, commenced business in
this place as an apothecary and surgeon, and now sup^
ports himself and his family with credit : at the same
time holding meetings with the Hottentots and slaves,
and endeavouring to do the work he was called to,
though no longer directed and supported by the Society.
It rained now so hard, that we made all haste to reach
the Breede river. It is crossed by a ferry. The cattle,
all but the shaft oxen, being unyoked, are driven into
the river, and swim across. On landing, the road was
rendered so slippery by the rain, that, with every exer-
tion, ten oxen could not drag the wagon up the steep as^
cent, but frequently fell down. Both spanns were neces-
sary to bring each wagon to the level. No attention
seems to be paid to the road, which might very easily
be cut down, so as to make the approach to the water
more convenient. In the evening, we reached a farm
near the Sonderend. belonging to a Mr. Heiman, where
262 JOURNAL OF A
we met with a hospitable reception, being recommended
by the landdrost. Our host had formerly been in the in-
terior, and speaking of the wild buiFalde, mentioned a
singular stratagem, practised by that fierce animal,
when hunted in the woods. It runs forward, till it is
out of sight. The huntsman follows its l^rack, assured
that the animal is before him. Meanwhile, entering the
underwood, it returns part of the way, under cover of
the bushes, waiting in ambush for its unwary pursuer,
who finds himself suddenly attacked in flank, and some-
times loses his life in the conflict.
10th. We crossed the place, where, on the 7th of
March, we had suffered so much from the heat, as to
make us call it the Hot Outspann, got fresh oxen at
Veldcornet Van Eckstein's, and reached the ford about
two o'clock. The water was too deep to pass through
it. The wagons having been emptied of their loading,
and empty casks placed within, to buoy them up, they
were floated across. The oxen swam, and the travellers
and baggage went over in a small boat. The weather
favoured us, and we reached Mr. Van Helsland's hospi-
table mansion in the afternoon, without any harm to our
goods by water or rain. His lady was gone to Cape-
town, but we spent a very agreeable evening in his com-
pany.
11th. Rising early, we walked for some time about
the premises. The mountains present themselves here in
all their grandeur. Mr. Van Helsland made me at-
tentive to a singular plant, called Vlachdorn, or
Flat-thorn. Its leaves lie horizontally, close to the
ground, forming a kind of star. They are studded
with small thorns or prickles. From the centre is-
sues a naked stem, ordinarily about a foot in length,
with a small flower. Its root, like the roots of many
plants and bushes in this country, is disproportionately
thick, and strikes deep into the ground, like a carrot. A
decoction of it is considered an efficient remedy against
the stranguary in cattle, a distemper of which many die,
at a season of the year when a certain herb, ripening
among the common grass, is supposed to be the cause of
it. Brother Schmitt knew it, as used by the Hottentots
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 263
in the cure of similar disorders in man, but Mr. Van
Helsland told us, that he had saved twenty oxen last
year, who must otherwise have died of that terrible
disorder.
About half past nine, we left Bock Revier, and pro-
ceeded with Mr. Eckstein's oxen to a place beyond Har-
tebeestkraal, where we again met our own. The moun-
tains increase in singularity of shape, and picturesque com-
binations, the nearer we approach to Gnadenthal. When
we bad arrived in the neighbourhood of Mrs. Giebeler's
farm, we saw about a hundred Hottentots on foot and on
horseback, coming to meet us, headed by the missionaries
Leitner and Lemmerz, with Mr. and Mrs. Melville and
two children. It was truly affecting to hear the ex-
pressions of sincere joy and gratitude for our safe return,
which burst upon us from old and young ; and we all
joined in humble thanks to God, our Saviour and Pro-
tector, whose mercies unto us during the whole journey,
had been every morning new. About three o'clock we
entered Gnadenthal, and the renewed impression made
upon my mind, by the view of this charming place, ac-
companied by all the reflections on its origin, aim, and
progress, filled my eyes again with tears of gratitude to
God, for such a visible display of his mercy and power.
While we were at dinner, a large company of Hottentots
assembled before the dining-room, and sung a hymn of
praise to the Lord, for having brought us safe home
again. In the usual evening-service, the whole congre-
gation joined in our thanksgivings.
264 JOURNAL OF A
CHAPTER XVIL
Gnadenthal. Account of Peter Batje. Hottentots^ mode of
tanning. Appeal in behalf of the poor. Mr. Melville'^s
plan of Gnadenthal. Regulations proposed by the Hot-
tentots for the prevention of disorder. Appointment of
overseers. Approval of JUr. Fraiienfelder^ deputy land-
drost of Caledon. Mr. Melville and Schmitfs return to
the Cape. Recovery of a long-lost parcel of letters.
Statutes of the congregation. Walks about the settlement.
Instance of discipline. The Lord'^s Supper on Whitsun-
day. Remarks on the Bi^ethren^s manner of preaching.
Expression of affection by the Hottentots. The Cutlery.
Account of Philippus Appell. A Hottentofs attempt to
obtain the captaincy of Hesqua tribe. Conversation with
Captain Koopman about Hottentot'^ s Land. Prepare to
leave Gnadenthal.
May 12th. On our return to Gnadenthal, I found letters
from England and from Capetown, which afforded me
agreeable information concerning the well-being of mj
family and friends. A packet of letters from Labrador,
which ought to have arrived before I went into the inte-
rior, was missing. Being Sunday, the services at church
were as usual, and several parties of Hottentots, both
men and women, came during the day to bid us welcome.
13th. In the afternoon. Brother Leitner accompanied
me on a walk down the west-side of the valley, to see a
place, formerly belonging to a Hottentot, Peter Batje.
He had planted many fruit and other trees, and made a
good garden on the premises. His wife was a woman
of superior intellect, and an exemplary Christian, and
kept the place in excellent order. After her death, he
seemed to lose all his former good qualities, and took to
drinking. No admonitions had any effect, and as his
house and premises lay at some distance from the other
dwellings, and in a by-path, leading to Robyntjes Kraal,
young people of dubious characters, both Hottentots and
boors, began to make it a place of rendezvous, and resort-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 265
ed to it at night, taking advantage of a situation which
eluded immediate detection. Thus it became a haunt of
^sorderly persons, and Peter received warning to quit.
He refused to leave the place, and gave the missionaries
much trouble. Notice was therefore sent to the Veld-
cornet, who expelled him. Since that time, the premises
have not been occupied, the missionaries fearinr, that
they might be turned to the same use, if let to improper
persons, and the Hottentots being, in general, too poor
to keep them m repair. We spent part of this day in
conierence. "^
1 ah. I walked with Brother Schmitt to the Caffre
Kraal, and engaged a CaiFre, Ernest Apolli, to tan and
dress some tjger and other skins 1 had brought with me
irom the mter.or. This is done by spreading them on
the grass, covenng them with sheep's fat, strewing a
species of chalk over them, and with a sand-stone, by a
circular motion of the hand, rubbing them, till the skin
becomes as soft and pliable as wash-leather. The hair
remains undisturbed. Any laceration by shot or other
violence, they contrive to mend with great neatness, so as
hardly to be perceived.
I wrote to-day to Mr. Von Buissini, the landdrost of
Zwellendam, in behalf of the poor, who cannot possibly
pay the new poll-tax of five rix-dollars per man. The
tax seemed to be levied without any discrimination, or
proportionate distribution. I was the more anxious to
do away any impression unfavourable to the present
Government, as I have, to my sorrow, perceived in the
minds of many people in the interior, considerable aliena-
tion from that attachment to the English, which, in the
beginning, seemed sincere, but has suffered much, proba-
bly from misapprehension, as they are not acquainted
with English forms, nor easily turned from their old cus-
toms. I have been credibly informed, that there is not
much difference as to the amount of their contributions
towards the public expenditure; but they have very
imperfect ideas of commutation.
15th and Itith. Mr. Melville had kindly undertaken
to make a correct plan of the whole settlement of Gna-
266 JOURNAL OF A
denthal, which he executed in the most finished manner,
with uncommon accuracy and neatness.
I7th. A boor^ whose house is not far off, and a sink of
every abomination, came to Gnadenthal on business.
Father Marsveld addressed him on the diabolical de-
light he finds in seducing our unsteady young people
to drunkenness, and the commission of all manner of lewd-
ness, when at work at his farm. He is said to live in his
cellar, to be near to his idol, the brandy-cask, and sel-
dom sober. He had not a word to say in his own defence^
but immediately quitted the place.
This morning we desired the five Hottentots, who had
accompanied us into the interior, to inform us what re-
ward they expected for their trouble. Their remarks
would have done credit to the most disinterested and ge-
nerous hearted Europeans. As it was but just that they
should reap the benefit of their labours, and be recom-
pensed for their uniform good behaviour, by which they did
honour to their Christian profession, we gave them about
as much again as the sum with which they had declared
themselves satisfied, not wishing to take advantage of
their willingness to serve a good cause, exerted at the
expense of the duties they owed to their families.
In the evening, we met, to confer about a proposal,
made by the Hottentots themselves, in consequence of
the disorders before alluded to, which in so large a settle-
ment cannot be prevented, without strict attention and
watchfulness. It may be supposed, where there are
many young people, that not all of them are willing to
tread in the steps of their Christian parents, but rather
disposed to follow the ways of the world, and to give
free vent to their unruly passions. To keep them in
order had sometimes proved a \ery difficult task to the
parents, who were unable to defeat the attempts conti-
nually made by unprincipled white people, and others, to
entrap the unwary.
During my journey into the interior, several chapel-
servants had waited upon Father Marsveld, who, by com-
mon consent, acts the part of Justice of the Peace in the
settlement, and expressed a wish, that a company of
Brethren might be appointed to maintain order through-
out the village. This was particularly necessary during
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 267
the evening-services, and at night, to prevent slaves and
others, who have no business here, from entering the
houses, and keeping company with the idle and dis'-
solute.
The Hottentots proposed, that the missionaries should
choose men, approved for their good behaviour, and re-
spected by the people in the village, to be nominated
opzieners, (overseers.) They should then mention to
the chapel-servants the names of those whom they had
chosen, when they would acquaint their teachers with
the general opinion conceived of each. As they had ap-
pealed to me, I approved and recommended the measure.
A list was then prepared of fifty-four men, chiefly fathers
of families, acknowledged to be capable of holding such
an office. The Hottentots had also suggested that the
deputy-landdrost of Caledon, Mr. Von Frauenfelder,
should be requested to give his sanction to such a regu-
lation of police. Though we always expect tares to
grow up with the wheat, yet we may trust, that such
exertions may be made, as will, by the Lord's mercy,
keep them down, and prevent their choking the good
seed.
19th. Brother Schmitt preached, and in the evening,
both he and Mr. Melville, with their families, set out on
their return to the Cape. A large party accompanied
them to the Sonderend.
I was this afternoon present at the baptism of three
children, of from one to three years old. It was con-
ducted nearly in the same manner as that of adults. At
night I felt unwell with a violent cold, and on the 2{)th5
for the first time, did not rise at the stroke of tlie bell,
nor attended the service in the chapel. The greatest
anxiety was shown on the part of the missionaries, that
nothing might be neglected for my relief To Sister
Leitner I owe the benefit I received from a decoction
of elder-flowers and bukku-leaves, used here to promote
perspiration.
24th. Having made a report of the before-mentioned
plan of appointing overseers (opziener) to the deputy-
landdrost, Mr. Von Frauenfelder, I received to-day a
very satisfactory answer from him, fully approving of
268 JOURNAL OF L
the measure, and promising every assistance in his
power.
25th. Though I still felt the effects of the cold, yet I
persevered in taking my usual walks, and to-day went,
with Brother Lemmerz, to the top of the lower hills be-
hind the Caffre Kraal, from whence the chief part of
the stones, used in laying the foundation of the new
house, had been brought. They are strongly impreg-
nated with iron. Large blocks lie scattered all over
these hills, some covered with a lichen of a deep ver-
milion-colour. We proceeded towards the foot of the
great mountain, hoping to reach a stony kloof to the
eastward of it, but were obliged to return, for want of
time. By the way, we called at some Hottentots' hou-
ses, and conversed with the inhabitants. In the after-
noon, we rode to the Sonderend.
26th. To-day, thirty-two of the fifty-four men ap-
pointed to be overseers, met, the remainder being en-
gaged at the farms. They were addressed by Brother
Leitner, and the nature of the commission, with its re-
sponsibilities, explained to them. They declared them-
selves wiUing to accept of it, and several of them spoke,
with much good sense, of the necessity of providing for
the maintenance of order in so large a place. Father
Marsveld represented to them, how careful they ought
to be, in accepting of, and holding this office, that their
own lives and conversation should exhibit proofs of real
conversion of heart, that what they recommended and
required of others, might be enforced by good example.
The letter addressed to me by the deputy-landdrost of
Caledon was then read and explained, and they ex-
pressed great thankfulness for the countenance to be
given them by the magistrate. I received, to-day, a
letter from the landdrost of Zwellendam, Mr. Von
Buisslna, in which he generously accedes to my wishes
respecting the poor at Gnadenthal, granting them cer-
taia exemptions, and directing in what manner the de-
claration of their disabilities must be made to the col-
lee or of taxes.
In the following days, I was busily engaged at home
Tvitii writing letters, and business relating to the Mission.
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA* 269
29th. I had been requested to draw up rules or sta-
tutes, to be read to the congregation, at stated times,
and particularly to new people, that they might know
what was required of every one, who desired to become
and remain an inhabitant of this place. For this purpose,
I had a conversation with all the missionaries, and heard
the remarks of each, made on every subject, connect-
ed with the internal and external state of the settlement.
From these, and from the regulations of the settlements
of the Brethren in Europe, as detailed in Loretz's Ratio
Discipline Fratrum, I compiled a set of rules, suited to
the peculiar circumstances of this Mission. Having re-
ceived the approbation of the missionaries, they were
communicated and explained, first to the company of
overseers, and afterwards, to the whole congregation,
and agreed to with thankfulness. All promised obedi-
ence to them, and some, who had not understood every
particular instruction, in the following days came to ask
explanation, to which they had been invited by the mis-
sionaries. I was pleased with the simplicity and confi-
dence many of them showed on this occasion.
30th. I took a walk to the hill behind the Beastkraal,
from whence a good view of the church, the missionaries'
gardens, the burial-ground, the kloof, and the great
mountain, presents itself. While I was making my
sketch, clouds came rolling from the north, through the
kloof, and enveloped the lower region of the mountain,
the different peaks on its summit appearing above them.
3Jst. For some time the oaks, poplars, and other fo-
reign trees, had exhibited a beautiful variety of the
richest autumnal tints, but to-day, the heavy rain and
wind caused a great falling of the leaves, and, in a few
days more, winter seemed to have assumed its reign.
This afternoon, a young man, Francis H. was brought
before us, to answer for his having struck another man's
wife. He was expected to be very sulky, but confessed
the charge, without an attempt to defend himself, and
heard the sentence of exclusion from the meetings of the
baptized people, with many tears. He was apparently
not able to speak for grief, and it was with great rekic-
tance that he retired, when dismissed. On such occa-
270 JOURNAL OF A
sions, I generally remained a silent hearer, and found
much to approve and admire in the manner in which
Father Marsveld administered justice. But after Fran-
cis was gone, I took the Hberty to observe, that, though
he had confessed the charge brought against him, the
party offended had not been present, to be examined
respecting the occasion given for the offence, when pro-
bably some circumstances might have been discovered,
which would have caused the sentence to be less rigor-
ous. It is not in the manner of the punishment that
its severity is felt, so much as in the effect produced in
the mind or feelings of the person receiving it. Most of
the Christian Hottentots, negroes, or other converts from
among the heathen, in our missionary settlements, would
rather endure any corporeal chastisement, than be ex-
cluded from the meetings of their class or division in the
congregation. The missionaries, acknowledging the
truth of these remarks, appointed a second hearing in
Father Marsveld's room, in presence of two or three of
their number, and a summons was sent to the woman, to
meet the accused in the morning.
June 1st. They both appeared before us. Here again
I was witness to that great influence, which the missiona-
ries will ever possess over the minds of their converts,
while the latter are convinced, that all they do and di-
rect, IS meant only for their good, and that even the se-
verest reproofs proceed from the sincerest regard for
their welfare. We now obtained a true account of the
transaction, which, though in itself of small consequence,
I relate, as an instance of the manner in which affairs of
this nature are treated in our settlements.
By a rule long established, every inhabitant is bound
to make good the damage done by his cattle in his neigh-
bour's grounds. To prevent such mischief, they are
continually exhorted to keep their hedges and other
fences in repair; the neglect of which operates against
the complainant in awarding damages. The husband of
this woman had suffered his horse to enter Francis's gar-
den, and do considerable mischief. Francis complained,
and the man agreed, that, to compensate for the damage
done, he should have twenty or thirty cabbages, with
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA^ 271
which he was satisfied. On coming to claim them, he
found the best of them cut off and carried away. He en-
tered the house, and found only the wife at home, who
answered to his remonstrance in a manner so affronting,
that he gave the woman a push, not a blow, according to
her own admission, when some high words passed be-
tween them. On cross-examination, the woman confess-
ed, that, hearing the bargain made between her husband
and Francis, she had thought it no harm, to save as
much of her husband's property as she could, and there-
fore secured the best cabbages. The injustice of such
deceitful conduct being represented to her, and that she
deserved to be excluded, as v/ell as Francis, she seemed
terrified, and offered to make any reparation in her powd-
er. They were then, after some further exhortation,
asked, whether they could heartily forgive each other.
This they did with great sincerity, shaking hands, promi-
sing never more to remember the offence given. The
sentence, passed on Francis yesterday, w^as now revoked,
and both expressed their thanks with great humility.
2d. Whitsunday. The services usual on this festival-
day, were attended by the families of some farmers in
the neighbourhood, and a large audience of Hottentots
and slaves. In the evening, the Holy Sacrament was ad-
ministered to about three hundred and fifty commu-
nicants.
This was the last time I was favoured to be present,
and to assist at this sacred ordinance, in the church at
Gnadenthal. When I entered and took my seat, and be-
held the congregation sitting before me, in silent expec-
tation of that great blessing, which attends the celebra-
tion of this sacramental feast, instituted by our Lord him-
self, in remembrance of His sufferings and death, I felt
quite overwhelmed, and almost totally lost in contempla-
tion. Nor were my feelings free from pain, when I re-
flected, that, in a few days, I must leave this place and
people, duty requiring, that 1 should not inuch longer in*
dulge in the delight my abode at Gnadenthal had afford-
ed to my mind, but proceed to Groenekloof, where I had
more business to transact than at this place.
I could not help drawing a comparison between the
272 JOURNAL or a
condition of these Hottentots, and that of the poor, squa-
lid, and ignorant wretches I had seen during my late
journey. And these had been in the same state, but for
the preaching of the Gospel. If this be not a miracle,
wrought by the power of God alone, I know not what is !
Effects so striking may prove to all men, that it is not
by enticing words of man's wisdom, nor by any human
systems and contrivances, but by the preaching of the
cross of Christ, in demonstration of the Spirit, that the
heart of man is changed, and he is made a new creature.
And, as I humbly hope, that, through the mercy of God,
1 have been taught to believe in Jesus, as my only trust
and refuge in life and death, my faith was greatly
strengthened, and my mind filled anew with assurance,
that we are doing right, in determining " to know noth-
ing amongst men, save Christ Jesus and Him crucified."
Yet I do not wonder, that some good men reprove us for
dwelling too much on this subject Its ejQTects are not ta
be explained by the common rules of reasoning. Experi^
ence alone can justify the practice, as consistent witn the
will and wisdom of God. Even to these poor Hottentots
the words of St. Peter may be addressed : " Ye are come
into Mount Zion, and to the city of the living God, and
to Jesus, the Mediator of the new covenant, and to the
blood of sprinkling."
Though despised by most men, and often liable to err
and fail, yet, as received and reconciled by Him, with
whom there is no respect of persons, I felt myself unwor-
thy to serve this congregation, whose attentive, devout
deportment, and unaffected fervency of spirit is scarcely
equalled in any Christian community.
3d. As Whit-Monday is celebrated in this colony, as in
most parts of the continent of Europe, the usual service
was performed at the church. In the afternoon, two
adults, and two children, were baptized.
After this solemnity, the chapel-servants came in a
body to pay me a visit. Brother Leitner being interpre-
ter, I had some very agreeable conversation with them.
In the evening, the opzieners met, by appointment, in our
dining-room, when the rules or statutes mentioned
(p. 269,) were again read and explained. The remarks
VISI'T to SOUTH AFRICA* ^73
ahdWed much good sense, and confirmed the opinion I
have already conceived of the Hottentots, that they are,
in general, more sensible, and possess better judgment,
than most Europeans equally destitute of the means of
instruction.
4th. Having heard that 1 intended next week to leave
Gnadenthal, the Hottentots, both men and women, alone,
or in parties, came to take leave of me, or rather to beg
me not to leave them. Some said : "* You seem so much at
home among us, that you had better go and fetch your
wife and children and take up your abode in this place."
I replied, that I thought I could do them more service by
going to England, and reporting to my Brethren, what I
had here seen and heard of the effects of the gospel,
which would excite them to send out more teachers, to
instruct those of their nation who were yet in darkness*
When they perceived that nothing would prevail to de-
tain me, many shed tears, saying, that as they must now
return to the farms, they should see me tio more. Their
behaviour towards me has, indeed, from the beginning,
been most kind and affectionate, and if I happened not
to be in my place at church, which, however, occurred
only tw^o or three times, their inquiries after ray health
were continued for three or four days successively. I
w^as engaged part of this day with Brother Beinbrech,
who has the charge of the cutlery and smithy. Fourteea
Hottentots were employed in these branches of business.
Their busy hammers, files, and polishing-wheel, made me
often fancy myself living in a London street, and forget,
that I was in a part of Africa, but lately a horrid and
! lonely desert. Room being wanted, both for stores and
ifamily use, some arrangements were made, whicli were
irendered practicable by the building of the new house,
ito the satisfaction of all parties.
This being the birthday of our venerable sovereign,
•we remembered him in our prayers, according to the
direction given by the apostle, 1 Tim. ii. 2, with thanks-
giving, that under him, and a Government disposed to
promote the interests of religion and virtue, we may lead
a quiet and peaceable life, in all godliness and honesty.
5th. A Hottentot, Philip Appell, who had returne(}
#
/
/
274 JOURNAL OF A
from the interior, was summoned before Father Mars-
veld and three other Brethren, to be informed that he
couid not be permitted to live at Gnadenthal. This was
a new case, which involved a difficult question.
Philip had formerly belonged to the congregation,
and, for some time after his baptism, conducted himself
with propriety.! His wife was a woman of a very turbu-
lent spirit, and fiad held her former husband incomplete
subjection. When she married Philip, she made several
attempts to ti-ieat him in the same manner; but after
long patience, he at length sought his remedy in his
superior strepgth, and every now and then their house
was a scene of confusion and uproar. Added to this,
they both began to indulge in liquor, and exhortations
being fruitless, he was ordered to quit the settlement.
His first expijlsion seemed to produce within him, a show
of sincere repentance, and he was so earnest in his en-
treaties for admission, and promises of amendment, that
he was permitted to return. This happened twice. But
when he fell ^ third time into the same transgression, he
refused to depart, and became a terror to the peaceable
inhabitants. The missionaries had now no means of
ridding themselves of such disturbers of the public peace,
but by an application to the landdrost. That magis-
trate was very ready to lend his aid, and ordered Philip
instantly to leave Gnadenthal, and not to enter the set-
tlement within a twelvemonth, on pain of imprisonment.
But this was not the intention of the missionaries and
their congregation, who dreaded his return. Whenever
the subject occurred in conversation. Father Marsveld,
knowing the cliaracter of the man, assured us, that on
the very day on which the year of his banishment was
completed, he would make his appearance; which he did
accordingly, furnished with a handsome testimonial from
the farmer by whom he had been employed.
Though F had heard much to his disadvantage, I could
not help admiring the address of this Hottentot. He
was a man of superior intellect, great bodily strength,
six feet high, and had an imposing appearance. To
Father Marsveld's just and severe representation of the
wicked conduct both of himself and his wife, disgraceful
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. / 275
I
to the Christian name given him in bap/ism, hurtful to
the youth in the congregation, annoying /in the extreme
to ail the iniiabitants, he made a reply, tull of contession
and contrition, not pretending to defend hijrnself, but only
craving mercy, patience, and another trial, with so much
eloquence, that to us, who were novices in these things,
he appeared truly sincere, and deserving of attention.
We were rather surprised to hear Fatli^r iMarsveld an-
swer, with unrelenting severity, to the following effect:
*^ This speech we have now heard a third time, not one
word of which we can admit to be true; Do you mean
a third time to deceive us with hypocritical pretences and
professions, which proceed not from your heart, but are
made for your own convenience; because you feel the
effect of the disgrace you have incurred with your own
people, and throughout the w^hole country, by yofjr
abominable practices, which you now seek to wipe off,
by being again received as an inhabitant of Gnadenthal ?
But your contrivances are vain. You are dreaded by
the whole congregation, and there are few who would
forofive us^ if we were to admit so dangerous a man to
dwell in this place ; out of which, drunkenness, lewd-
ness, brawling and fighting, shall, by God's blessing upon
our present regulations, be totally expelled, together
with every one, who does not choose to lead a life con-
sistent with Christian principles." I thought it was all
over with Philip, whose countenance showed the deep-
est conviction and humility. But I was mistaken. He
granted every word the venerable missionary had spo-
ken, to be true, and that he deserved to be suspected of
falsehood and pretence, but proceeded to make such
protestations of his sincerity, and the remorse he felt, on
account of his former transgressions, that Father Mars-
veld, perceiving by our looks, that we w^ere disposed to
relent, ordered Philip to withdraw, that we might con-
sult together in private. He then observed, that he did
not wonder at our being moved by the Hottentot's
speech, since we were yet unacquainted with that par-
ticular character, but that, if a real change was wrouglit
in the man's heart, it would appear to him one of the
greatest miracles he had ever heard of, or seen. The
376 JOURNAL OF A
result was, that Philip was permitted to stay till Monday,
when we should inform him of our decision. Mean-
while, the opzieners were convened, and the case laid
before them. The missionaries supposed, that they
would unanicaously protest against his re-admission,
when, to our surprise, they all pleaded for a third trial.
We afterwards discovered, that Philip had informed him-
self of their appointment, and waited upon each, when,
hj his penitential declarations, he had quieted their
minds and moved their compassion.
On Monday morning, he appeared before us, to hear
our determination, being directed to bring his wife with
him. She was addressed by Father Marsveld in a suit-,
able manner, but looked very sulky, and made no reply,
Philip then spoke to her in our presence, confessing hi^
own sins, and that he had often provoked her bad be-
haviour, by his conduct, asked her pardon, and exhorted
her to take warning, and to pray to God to convert her
heart, that they might in future avoid giving such offence
to a Christian people, and such pain to their teachers.
She seemed to relent, and promised obedience and sub-
mission to the rules of the place. They now obtained
leave to erect a hut, and cultivate some garden-ground,
to be appointed for them by Brother Leitner, but were
told, that for the first breaking out of their former war-
fare^ or the first symptoms of drunkenness and disorder,
they would be expelled by the landdrost, never more to
return. As long as 1 remained in Africa, no complaint was
made against them, nor have I heard any since my re-
turn, and we may hope, that the professions of Philip
Appell have been sincere, and, by the grace of God,
evinced their reality. He seemed particularly thankful
to me^ though I had xiot interfered much in pleading his
cause, and he accompanied me for several miles, when
I left Gnadenthal.
On this occasion, I could not but again notice that
easy flow of speech so natural to many Hottentots, and
which is indeed increased by Christian instruction; but,
if not directed by the Spirit of tr'ith, may make a Hot-
tentot, even without gcnuMe convers'on of heart, ap^
pear qualified to preach tc\ and teach others. Great
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 277
caution ought therefore to be applied, if it be thought
proper, consistent with convenience or other considera-
tions, to appoint any of them to that office. Hitherto the
Brethren have not employed either Hottentots or negroes
as assistants in the ministry, but only as visiters and
chapel-servants.
6th. Having discovered the man who was the chief
instigator of the uneasiness of the Hesqua people, in
wishing to appoint a Captain of that tribe, in opposition
to Captain Koopman, who is regularly appointed by
Government, he was summoned and examined as to his
late proceedings at Capetown, where he had waited on
some members of the Government, and endeavoured to
obtain the Captain's staff for his tribe. We told him,
that, had he obtained it, he should immediately have
quitted the settlement, and might have exercised his
authority among the wolves and jackals, the only in-
habitants at present in the Hesqua Kloof, where for-
merly that tribe had its residence. That, also, the
first disturbance he should occasion, would be punished
with expulsion. After much prevarication, he was
brought to confession, and promises of his future peace-
able demeanour.
7th. I visited the girls' school, and heard some of them
read very well. Dr. Bell's plan is followed as much as
possible, but not in all its parts. Some have made tole-
rable progress in writing.
In the afternoon, 1 rode with Brother Lemmerz, across
the Sonderend, to a hill beyond Badenhorst's farm.
The river was so much swollen, that it was impossible to
ford it without being wet.
As the time of my departure drew near, the farewell-
visits of the Hottentots became more frequent, and many
parties of men, women, and children, followed each other
during the day.
In the evening, captain Koopman and two other Hot-
tentots paid me a formal visit. They began the conver
sation by expressing the regard and affection they felt
for me, and their sorrow for my departure. Having
made portraits of the two venerable Fathers, Marsveld
and Schwinn, which lay on my table', they immediately
278 JOURNAL OF A
knew them, and seemed delighted to see them ^' written
dovvn on paper." Captain Ivoopman then said, that he
had still something to observe about the land belonging
to the Hottentots, in consequence of my having lately
asserted, " that the land was given by Government to
the Brethren^ lor the Hottentots, and that, if it had not
been for the Mission, the Hottentots would have lost it
all." He entered into a long demonstration to prove,
that not only this land, but two neighboui'ing farms,
w^hich he named, had, in old times, been Hottentots'
land, being secured to one of his ancestors by some
Dutch Governor, but to which ancestor, and by what
Governor, he could not tell. He added, that there was
now not land enough for pasture, and that if, according
to my recommendation, still more were to be brought
under tillage for fields and gardens, they must keep
fewer cattle, and that, if those spots, which appeared fit
for the rearing of corn, were ploughed and sown, they
would be surrounded by pasture-ground, and the pro-
duce trodden down by beasts.
He therefore wMshed me to apply to the English Go-
vernment, to restore to the Hottentots the two farms in
question. Brother Leitner being interpreter, I explained
to him, that the English Government must and would act
justly; that they had already greatly favoured the Chris-
tian Hottentots ; that what I said about the land being
given " to the Brethren," for the Hottentots, was strictly
true, for they had the right granted them of giving it to,
or withholding it from, any Hottentot, at their discretion ;
and that the occupation of it by the Brethren, as land-
lords, was the only sure way of preserving it for the use
of the Hottentots; for he must know, that but for the
English Government, not only the two farms he men-
tioned, but Bavians-kloof itself, would have been seized
upon by some white landholder. Moreover, that the
English Government could not in justice dispossess the
farmers of their property, unless by purchase, which
could not be expected. Brother Leitner then showed,
that the Brethren had spent above a thousand rix-dol-
lars, in securing land for the Hottentots, and could do
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 279
no more, since they received no interest or benefit what-
ever from it.
With these explanations they appeared quite satis-
fied, but added some very sensible remarks on the pre-
sent degraded state of their countrymen, v^ho lived with
the boors, since all the country had been taken from
them, and was possessed by intruders. I endeavoured
to make them understand, " that though I by no means
meant to justify such encroachment and robbery, yet
they might, as Christian people, find some consolation in
the reflection, that, had it not been for the occupation
of their country by Europeans, they would have remain-
ed in gross ignorance and darkness, and been ' led cap-
tive by Satan at his will,' in the service of sin ; the
consequence of which, even to the richest and most
powerful nation, was misery both here and hereafter."
We then explained to them the state of the negroes
in the West Indies, who had not only lost their land
and liberty, but were carried as slaves into a foreign
country ; and yet many of those, who had received the
gospel, now rejoiced in that which, to man, seemed the
greatest misfortune, because it had been the means of
preparing them, by faith in Jesus, for the possession of
an inheritance incorruptible and eternal. They heard
us with great attention, and, during the latter part of
the address, tears filled their eyes, and they declared
their thankfulness to God for their present privileges :
adding, that in conversation among themselves, they fre-
quently reminded each other of these benefits.
It was to me a most interesting discovery, showing,
that these poor people likewise reason about the rights
of man, though with rather more coolness and good sense,
than some among our English demagogues have done.
8th. To-day I was much engaged in making prepara-
tions for my departure, and finished a farewell-address
to the congregation, in Dutch, which I meant to read to
them on Sunday. For though I had learned to read and
pronounce this language tolerably well, I could not ven-
ture to speak extempore in a public assembly. I read it
on the
9th, in the afternoon, to a crowded audience, and was
280 JOURNAL aF A
glad to hear, that it was well understood by the Hotteii-
tots. When I had finished, and left the desk, Father
Marsveld addressed the congregation, and offered up a
prayer in my behalf.
The pain felt at parting was, I believe, mutual ; nor
would my feelings have suffered me to read my speech,
had I not been obliged to pay as much attention to read-
ing and right pronunciation, as to the subject itself.
During the whole day, parties of Hottentots came into
my room, to express their afifection, thanks, and good
wishes.
1 0th., The weather being rainy, and every prospect
of the rivers in the high mountains being impassable, I
gave up my intention of going to Groenekloof by Rode-
sand and Tulbach.
The missionaries Clemens and Leitner, with Sister
Leitner, having resolved to accompany me to Groene-
kloof, our departure was fixed for the following morning.
But hearing that it was no longer possible to pass the
ford of the Sonderend, I confess I felt pleased with the
prospect of delay; for my regret at leaving Gnadenthal
and its worthy inhabitants was hourly on the increase.
In the evening, the family met to take leave of me. I
endeavoured, as well as I was able, to express to all,
and each of them, the grateful sense I had, and shall
ever retain, of the undissembled brotherly love and con-
fidence which I enjoyed during my abode in this place,
as likewise my view of the present state of the Mission,
and my heartfelt, fervent, and never-ceasing desire and
prayer, that a special blessing might rest upon the la-
bours of each of the Brethren and Sisters employed in
it, both now and in succession. Brother Clemens, the
warden, in the name of all the missionaries, answered me
in a most affectionate address. Of this last evening at
Gnadenthal, I spent part with Father Schwinn, and part
with Father Marsveld, in pleasant and profitable conver-
sation.
The state of Father Schwinn's health was very pre-
carious. It did not appear as if we should much longer
enjoy the services of this faithful labourer in the Lord's
vineyard. Father Marsveld was above seventy years
tlSlT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 281
old, and begins, in various ways, to feel the infirmities of
age, but his spirit is lively, and both his fellow labourers,
and the Hottentots, prayed that he might be preserved
in health and Activity many years longer.
CHAPTER XVIIL
Departure from Gnadenthal. Acccnnpnnied by Hottentots
and Missionaries. Warmbaths. Dr. Hassner loses his
best slave. Caledon. Bontjeskraal. JVigh^s lodging at
Servas de Kok'^s farm. Ford of the Botte Revier. Mn
Uriels farm and inn. Battle of baboons. Bridge over
the Palmite Revier. Hottentot-Hollands-Kloof. Brenk'^s
Inn. Might spent at Mr. Delporfs farm. Remarkable
mountains. Farms of Mr. Dirk Cloete^ Mr. JVeukirch^
and Mr. Bruckman. Ji Boor'^s opinion of the Caffres
and Hottefitots. Arrival at Groenekloof Mr. Slabbert.
Consultation about the new Church. Mr. Kotzee. Re-
marks on intruders. Arrival at Capetown. Mr. Hoetz^s.
villa. Return of my travelling companions to Gnaden-
thal. Visit at JYewlands. Mr. Sebastian van Rhenen.
Observations on Church-music. Return to Groenekloof
June llth* I did not feel quite well, and had almost
given up the hopes of being able to set out this morning,
on account of the reported fulness of the Sonderend,
when Solomon Pfeiffer, who had been sent to examine the
state of that river, returned with the news, that it might
be forded with great ease. We therefore prepared for
the journey.
After I had paid an early visit to the two venerable
Fathers, Marsveld and Schwinn, in their rooms, the fami-
ly breakfasted together in the dining-hall, and once more
commended me and my fellow travellers to the grace and
protection of God, in a short prayer by Father Mars-
veld.
Meanwhile, about two hundred Hottentots had assem-
bled in the grove. All would press forward, and their
eagerness onco more to shake hands and bid me farewell
o
3G
282 JOURNAL OF A
was so great, that a general scramble was avoided only
by my calling to them, that I would not pass by any one,
but admit them all in due order. At length we reached
and entered the wagon, when they began, with one voice^
to sing their farewell-hymn.
At this moment, I felt all resistance to my feelings
give way. Never have I experienced a keener pang, on
leaving any place, or any friends, to whom I was attach-
ed. Gnadenthal is indeed a spot, where I have found
myself so much at home, and where almost every object
conspired to fill my mind with grateful remembrances and
contemplations, that, though convinced of my duty to
proceed to Groenekloof, where business of importance
to that settlement demanded my presence, I found it ne-
cessary to do violence to my feelings, to tear myself
loose. But my spirit will often dwell in those hallowed
groves, accompany the congregation into the house of
prayer, attend them during their truly solemn assemblies,
behold with affection and delight the pious labours of
their teachers^ participate in their joys, their sorrows,
and their cares, and enjoy an aftertaste of the heavenly
comfort attending the administration of the holy sacra-
ments, by the presence and power of our Lord and Sa-
viour.
The whole missionary family, and about a hundred and
fifty Hottentots, small and great, on foot or on horseback,
accompanied us beyond the Sonderend, as far as Baden-
horst's farm, where, placing themselves in a semicircle^
they sang another farewell-hymn, and finally bade adieu.
The Brethren Thomson and Lemmerz kept us company
till we arrived at Mr. Klemm's, on Serjeants Revier.
The Gnadenthal range of mountains was covered with
snow, upon which the sun shone with great splendour.
We reached the Warmbaths about five in the evening,
but, to our sorrow, found our good friend. Dr. Hassner,
very ailing. His spirits, however, revived, and we spent
a pleasant evening at his house.
12th. In the morning, the doctor was better. He had
met with a serious loss, by the death of a slave, who,
besides being a useful and sensible servant, was a good
joiner, and cost him three thousand rix-dollars. The
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 283
poor fellow seems to have been seduced to take too much
liquor, fell from his horse into a ditch, and broke his
back.
After breakfast we set out, and called upon Mr, Von
Frauenfelder, the deputy-landdrost of Caledon. He was
glad to hear our report of the new regulations at Gna-
denthal, and to relieve the poor of that place, by a di-
rection from Mr. Von Buissini, who had most kindly at-
tended to jmy representation.
The landdrost delivered to me a letter froii) Colonel
Bird, just arrived, in answer to my application made to
his Excellency the Governor, for the possession of the
land on the Witte Revier, which is granted, in terms
most obliging.
Our next visit was to the Rev. Mr Voss, the minister
of Caledon. He showed us the church, which is a good,
Klain building, and gave us some information respecting
lessrs. Read's and Williams's visit to CafFraria, wheie
they seemed to have met with encouraging success.
From hence we proceeded to Bontjeskraal. On an
eminence near the farm, I found a fine view of four
ranges of mountains, those of Gnadenthal, the Zwarteir
berg near Caledon, the Tower of Babel and its compa-
nions, and the Great and Little Haue Hock. Our road,
from this place to Mr. Servas de Kok's farm on the
Botte Revier, lay over a barren waste. He received
us drily, but gave us a good sup^per, good beds, and in
conversation was friendly.
13th. We set out early, and forded the Botte Revier
without difficulty. Formerly, rocks rendered this ford-
ing-place almost impassable, but about a year ago, by a
sudden inundation, earth and sand was carried down
from the mountain in such quantities, that the rocks were
covered, the holes filled up, and a good road made
through the river. Mr. de Kok, however, was a
great sufferer. His vineyards wer^ completely ruined,
the water-course and mil! destroyed, and the well, which
supplied the family, choked up.
In about an hour, we reached the toll-house, at t!ie
foot of the Haue Hoek, over which we had a pleasant
walk of about three English miles, the morning beinjs"
284 JOURNAL OF A
remarkably fine. We halted at Mr. Urie's farm. While
dinner was preparing, we walked with our landlord into
his grounds. He had laid out a large garden and vine-
yard, and was now^ planting wood, and making other im-
provements, by which, if he succeeds, his place will be-
come a little paradise, in the midst- of a wilderness.
The great Haue Hoek presents itself here, with many
small peaks. Its rocks are the habitations of baboons,
which, indeed, occupy the summits of all the neighbour-
ing hills. Mr. Urie enteitained us with an account of a
combat he had lately beheld, on the waste, adjoining
his gardens, between a large herd of baboons from the
Haue Hoek, and a party from the opposite range. It
was maintained on both sides Avith great fury, and with
horrid yells and barkings, when, suddenly, a stop w^as
put to it, by an unfortunate jackal running in among
them. The poor animal was seized by one party and
thrown towards the other, then back again. His cries,
added to those of the combatants, filled the air with the
most discordant sounds, till the death of the intruder
seemed to give the signal for a general retreat.
Healing that the ford of the Palmite Revier was im-
passable, we drove to the bridge. At the toll-house we
found a miserable night's lodging, rose early on the
14th, and passed over the bridge, which is of wood,
and the only bridge in all South Africa. It rests upon
stone piers, thought sufficiently strong to resist the force
of the stream, which sometimes, in the rainy season, be-
comes extremely rapid and fierce, but was now nearly
hid among palmite-plants and low bushes, growing in its
bed. To prevent the wood-work from being washed off
the piers in great floods, the timbers are fastened to them
by strong chains, on the side of the waters descent.
The bridge is furnished with railings, and on the floor-
planks, the tliick spungy stalks of the palmite-plant are
laid in abundance, partly to atford an easier passage for
the bullock's feet, and partly to deaden the sound of the
wood, by which they are apt to be frightened. Two
wagoners had spanned out on the opposite bank, and
both they and their dogs seemed much alarmed at our
<^ar]y approach. The moori shone bright, and its re-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 285
flection upon the eastern ascent of the mountain, ^rhich
is covered with decomposed quartz, frittered into white
sand, gave it the appearance of a field covered with
snow. In one place, the road is steep, and full of rocky
ledges.
The eastern approach to the top of Hottentot-Hol-
lands-Kloof is guarded on each side bj fragments of rocks,
thrown into a variety of fanciful groupes, and odd shapes.
The road down the western declivity, though irremedia-
bly steep, has been much improved by the English. The
adjoining precipices are rugged in the extreme, but
every practicable spot is covered with a profusion of cu-
rious plants and shrubs. The sugar-bush grows here
in great plenty, and, with its magnificent starry flower,
adorns the wild region. At the top of the western de-
scent, I noticed a vein of iron-stone, with sand-stone and
indurated clay, of a reddish or violet colour, which forms
the mass of that part of the hill, called the Rothe Hochte.
Towards the bottom, all the fragments of rock (for there
are no large masses visible) are of a coarse grit or
granite.
About nine, we reached Mr. Brenk's inn, where we
were obliged to remain four hours, to let our poor famish-
ed oxen enjoy some food and rest. At two, we proceed-
ed, called at Mr. Morgel's farm, and reached Mr. Del-
port's house at the Moddergat. Darkness and fatigue
made us glad to find here a comfortable night's lodging.
We -were all put into one room, where we had also the
honour of having our host and a boy in the same dormi-
tory with us. The good man went to bed with a pipe
in his mouth. When he felt sleep coming on, he placed
it in a chair, to be ready in the morning. Between two
and three o'clock, he struck a light, without quitting his
bed, and fell to smoking again. It proved, however, no
annoyance, for there being no ceiling to the apartment,
the volumes of smoke, which rose curling from his lips,
had room to spread to the top of the roof.
1 5th. Our oxen having strayed far away, in search of
food, we were detained some hours after dawn of day.
1 improved the time, in viewing a remarks^blo mountain.
28B JOURNAL OF A
called the Helderberg or Simonsberg, belonging to the
Stellenbosch range, the rocky summit of which exhibits a
most singular variety of peaks and copulas. The village
of Stellenbosch presents itself beautifully, with its groves,
avenues, and plantations of fir and other trees. While
the wagon followed slowly, I walked through some of its
streets. We were hospitably received and entertained
at Mr. Dirk Cloete's farm, and, in tl^ afternoon, contin-
ued our route to Mr. Neukirch's house, where we met
with a reception equally kind, and spent an agreeable
evening. The house is new, and when completed, and
the grounds improved by plantations and gardens, the
situation promises to be one of the most pleasant in the
whole country. Over the principal door, in a medallion,
iare the words, "memento mori." w\
Our driver, Marcus, and the leader, had meanwhiloP
driven the oxen to a feeding-place at some distance.
The poor beasts were so much fatigued, that we hardly
expected them to bring us to-day to Groenekloof. We
proceeded through an uninteresting country, to an out-
spann-place, near Diep Revier, where Sister Leitner pro- I
vided us both w^ith breakfast and dinner. Between these ^
two meals, I walked about the waste, and found some
situations, from which the Stellenbosch hills are seen to
advantage, as likewise the Table-Mountain, and the
lower ranges of the Tygerberg, Koeberg, and Paerde-
berg. I found some odd varieties of iron-stone.
Thus employed, I seldom found time to hang heavy
upon my hands, during the many tiresome delays by out-
spanning and other circumstances, connected with an Af-
rican journey; and may I never be wanting in gratitude
to God, for granting to me such health, liveliness and ac-
tivity of mind, during this whole period, insomuch that I
never felt disposed to take an African nap after din-
ner.
Our evening worship consisted in singing several
verses in the wagon, which I should not notice, were
it not to record the behaviour of the Hottentots, who,
though before obliged by continual shouting and cracking
of whips, to keep our wearied cattle from stopping, or
VISIT to SOUTH AFHICA,^ 287
even lying down, v^alked quietly and devoutly near tliQ
wagon, and left the poor beasts to take their time.
We reached the miller Bruckman's bouse at eight
o'clock, and found good quarters. A loquacious country-
man, who had come in to spend the night, treated us with
his opinions on the state of the Hottentots and CafFres,
whom he considered as the Canaanites of this land, des-
tined to be destroyed by the white people, who were
the Israelites of God! It is strange, that the same notions
haunted the brains of many wicked fanatics in North
America, about seventy years ago, who, on that account,
opposed the Missions of our Church among the Indians,
as may be seen in LoskiePs history.
17th. We did not reach Groenekloof till eleven
o'clock. The day was spent in visiting some of the
famihes, and making various arrangements.
18th. We were visited by Mr. Slabbert, the proprietor
of the Langefonteyn farm. Vaillant has made honour-
able mention of this family, and I was glad to become ac-
quainted with a man who, in many respects, is superior to
most so-called Jifricaner^ in intellect and liberality of
sentiment. Speaking of Vaillant, he was rather surprised
to hear, that his own account states him to have been a
man of an undaunted spirit, whereas he passed with the
Slabberts for a very timid and fainted-hearted traveller.
19th. We conferred together about the site of the new
church, and made a calculation of the wood required
for that, and the repairs of one of the ont-house^, which
had been burnt some years before the missionaries were
put in possession of the premises by the Earl of Caledon>
Sister Schmitt had, at her own expense, fitted up one
end of it for a school-room, but now the increase of the
establishment rendered more dwellings necessary. 1
likewise resolved to accompany my Gnadenthal friends
to Capetown, with a, view to transact some business
relating to this setdement Avith His Excellency the
Governor.
20th. We set out after dinner, and arrived, about
seven, atBlauberg, Mr. Kotzee's house, where we spent
the night. We soon perceived that our visit was not
very agreeable, for Mr. Kotzee's mother-in-law being so
288 JOURNAL OF A
ill, that her death was shortly expected, and his wife
likewise unwell, it was no wonder that such intrusion
was not well-timed. Not every rnan has the gift of im-
mediately smothering unpleasant feelings, when stran-
gers interrupt the usual course of the family, by com-
ing unannounced, and demanding quarters for the night.
Nor can the inmate know, whether these intruders may
not, as is sometimes the case, fill the house with noise
and restlessness. Had the slave, whom we first ac-
costed, informed us of the state of the family, we
should have quietly remained in our wagons, notwith-
standing the general invitation formerly given by Mr.
Kotzee to the missionaries at Groenekloof, when he
visited that place. However, after the first expres-
sions of displeasure had passed by, he behaved towards
us with the greatest civility and hospitahty. His house
is one of the best in the country, and elegant in its ar-
rangements and furniture. Every thing in it is conducted
with great order.
21st. After breakfasting with the family, we left Blau-
berg at eight o'clock. This being the shortest day, we
were glad that the weather turned out fine, and had as
pleasant a ride to Capetown as the dreary country and
sandy road would allow. The tediousness of the jour-
ney around the bay is considerably reheved by the mag-
nificent view of the Table-Mountain audits associates, on
a fine day.
We arrived at Mrs. Disandt's house about two o'clock^
and soon had the pleasure to see our wordiy friends Mr.
Hanck and Mr. Melville. I also found here Mr. Edward
Grant, from Bombay, with whom I contracted a very
agreeable acquaintance.
22d. This day was spent in visiting friends, old and
new. I likewise increased my collection of horns, by the
purchase of those of a koodoo, gnou, hartebeesl, and
gemsbock.
23d. We attended divine service in the Lutheran
church. The hymns are sung in German, but the ser-
mon delivered in Dutch. I did not understand much of
ihe Rev. Mr. Hesse's discourse, though, by this time, I
am tolerably well acquainted with Gnadenthal Dutch.
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 289
This is a very convenient variety of that ancient lan-
guage, and much to be recommended ; for as our mission-
aries have learned Dutch, chiefly by books, and from each
other, their dialect is so well mixed with German, both
as to words and pronunciation, that it is easily understood,
both by a person acquainted with the German language
only, and by a native Dutchman, ignorant of German y
and surely no one will deny, that a language so construct-
ed, that of two different nations, each may understand it,
is a most desirable medium of conveying ideas, which is
the proper use of speech.
24th. At nine in the morning, Brother Leitner and his
wife accompanied me, by invitation, to the villa of our
friend, Mr. Hoetz, who sent his carriage for us. The
morning was delightful. The villa is situated about three
English miles from Capetown, on the road to Newlands,
at the back of the Table-Mountain. From the gardens,
the view of the house, with so magnificent a back-ground,
is charming. Its elegant portico is half hid by the
branches of large trees, with which the premises abound.
Many singular varieties of the aloe and Indian fig are
found in the gardens. The plantations of oak and firs,
between the house and the mountain, are extensive, and
kept in good order by Mr. Hoetz, who took the trouble
to walk with us through the greatest part of his grounds.
About a fortnight /igo, a male tyger was shot near the
back-wall, the skin of which was remarkably beautiful.
Considering the quantity of cover, both of rock and
wood, which tygers and other ravenous beasts might find
in this wild region, it is surprising that not more of thern
are seen and taken. We returned to town about twelve,
when I went to the Colonial Office, and called upon the
Governor, Colonel Bird, and Mr. Melville.
25th. To-day mj travelling companions from Gnaden-
thal prepared for their return, and after waiting long for
their wagon, owing to the usual tardiness of Hottentot
drivers, they set out at three in the afternoon. A slave,
emancipated by the will of his master, on condition of his
living at Gnadenthal, and receiving Christian instruction,
went with them. Mr. Melville and I walked with them
as far as the turnpike. There 1 took a last leave of my
37
29U JOURNAL OP A
Gnadenthai friends, who still vainly hoped, that I should
visit them once more, no opportunity offering for my
speedy departure for England. But travelling at this
time of the year is connected with so much delay, incon-
venience, and uncertainty, that, far from indulging the
idea af returning to Gnadenthai, I am almost of opinion,
that I have been too much attached to that place, and
staid in it too long. Our best wishes and prayers attend
each other in our several employments and travels. I
parted with some regret from Marcus, who had so long
been my faithful coachman, and always approved himself
worthy of his Christian name and profession. Brother
Schmitt and his wife arrived to-day from Groenekloof
26th. I w^ent in Mr. Hancke's sociable, with Mr. Ed-
ward Grant, to Newlands, to pay a morning visit to the
Governor, but was unsuccessful. In the evening, his
Excellency sent me an invitation to attend him on the fol-
lowing day.
27th. This morning, I had the pleasure to receive let-
ters from England, by which I was informed of the safe
arrival of all my letters written at sea. The Spaniard
and Dane had been the most tardy in forwarding them.
In the afternoon, I set out for Newlands, with Mr.
Edward Grant for my companion. I found there Mr.
Von Rhyneveld, the landdrost of Stellenbosch, his lady,
and Colonel Monkton. My visit proved very pleasant
and useful, as both during the course of the evening, and
in the morning of the
28th. I was favoured with much conversation with his
Excellency, concerning affairs of consequence to the
Mission, when I again had many proofs of his favourable
disposition towards it. Having an engagement at Cape-
town in the evening, I returned on horseback, though
it rained hard,
29th. My Groenekloof friends introduced me to Mr.
Sebastian Van Rhenen, where we dined. This gentle-
man has been a friend to the Groenekloof Mission from
its beginning. Having formerly travelled all over the
colony, he gave us some interesting information on seve-
ral topics, but particularly on the state of agriculture in
the colony. His remarks, founded on long experience,
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 291
respecting the regulations now adopted to improve the
rearing of produce, and the breed of cattle and sheep,
the introduction of better implements of husbandry, the
frequent change of Governors, and the new taxation,
appeared just and well supported.
30th. We attended divine worship at the Lutheran
church, where, as the Rev. Mr. Hesse informed me,
some extraordinary music was to be performed, to so-
lemnize the commemoration of the delivery of the Augs-
burg Confession. I expected some ecclesiastical anthem
in the good old Lutheran style, but was sadiy disap-
pointed. By way of a prelude, the organist, a very
clever performer both on the piano-forte and violin, as-
sisted by about six or eight of the military band, treated
us with the middle movement of Haydn's military sym-
phony. The performance of this martial piece was
surely a very improper preparation for religious wor-
ship. On Mr. Hesse's entering the church, and stepping
before the altar, he pronounced the words ; " Holy is
God ! Holy is God ! the Lord of Sabaoth !" Between
each sentence, a choir, consisting of four or five men,
sung the same words to music, pretending to be the
Sanctus in Haydn's first mass, but strangely altered and
mangled. The singers had no copies written out for
their use, but, turning their backs to the congregation,
looked over the organist's shoulders into his book. The
majestic simplicity of the Lutheran hymn-tunes was lost,
in a display of the most flourishing decollations. Still I
hoped, that, during some part of the service, which, as
far as the preacher and congregation were concerned,
was conducted with great solemnity, some anthem would
be performed. I was mistaken; for, as a prelude to one
of the four hymns appointed for the occasion, we were
treated with another instrumental piece of Haydn, beau-
tiful in its composition, and well executed by the band,
but rather suited to accompany a dance than to excite
devotional feelings. Of Mr. Hesse's most impressive
discourse I understood more than on a former occasion,
having seated myself near the pulpit. He closed it with
a serious, and indeed mournful, consideration of the
great degeneracy now prevailing throughout the Pro-
292 JOURNAL OF A
testant communion, and with an earnest, but affectionate
address to his congregation, and especially to the youth,
exhorting them to consider their ways, and return unto
the Lord, who had granted thera such great privileges,
and the free use of His Holy Word and Sacraments.
But, as if to efface all due impression made upon the
audience by the solemnity of Mr. Hesse's discourse, the
organist struck up the last movement of the military
symphony, which half the congregation staid to hear.
I must confess, that I left the church with pain and
disgust. Though blame may attach to the persons en-
gaged in this degradation of the service, and of that no-
ble art, which is so suitably and acceptably employed to
promote devotion, w^heh under the influence of a proper
spirit, yet the cause of grief and regret in the heart of
every sincere Christian, on account of such incongruities,
lies deeper. That such things exist, is one convincing
proof, among many, of the truth of the reverend preach-
er's description of the present degeneracy. In those
days, when the Protestant Confession Avas presented at
Augsburg, would such performances have been borne in
a place of worship?
Luther knew the value of music, and the strong influ-
ence it has upon the mind and affections, and therefore
wisely retained the use of it in the Church. He increased
the number of hymns, and by these means caused the
knowledge of evangelical truth to spread fast among the
people. Nor did he object to those antiphonal and choral
performances, which accompanied both the Jewish and
the primitive Christian worship, and furnish an agree-
able variety and relief. But it was never the design of
this great reformer, that the church should be the theatre,
upon which music-masters and singers might exhibit the
swiftness of their fingers, or the powers of their voice.
There are other opportunities and places, where this
may be done with propriety, and give delight to the most
religious scientific admirer of the art. But in the house
of prayer, these exhibitions are out of place, and the skill
and taste of the performer should rather be discovered,
by his knowing how to give majesty and effect to simpli-
city, without drawing the attention of the congregation
V[SIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 293
from the worship of God, to the admiration of himself.
Instrumental music speaks a language, and expresses
affections, as well as vocal. This is understood but im-
perfectly; yet there are few who will not grant, that a
march or a jig, performed by instruments, though it may
afford pleasure in the field, or in a concert-room, speaks
a language as little calculated to promote devotion as an
entertaining story, or a sally of wit.
We dined with Mr. Poleman, whose friendship I learned
to value more and more, the better I became acquainted
with him. Our evening was very agreeably spent with
the Rev. Mr. Hesse.
July 1st. Having taken leave of our worthy friend,
Mrs. Disandt, at whose house we had been most hospi-
tably entertained, we assembled at Mr. Melville's, and
about ten o'clock left Capetown for Groenekloof In
the evening, we reached Mr. Kaus's farm, called Lange
Ruck, where we found good quarters for the night.
2d. We arrived safe at Groenekloof I was pleased
to observe the growth of Indian ligs, planted as a fence
to the burial-ground. Some new attempts to raise plan-
tations of young trees had been made, but did not seem
to succeed.
3d. A trap having been set in a ravine, to catch mause-
hand, a muskiliat-cat was found in it, which Brother Stein
brought home. It was extremely fierce, and had nearly
escaped, when brought out of the trap. The skin was
beautifully variegated with stripes and spots. The
ground-colour a blueish gray, the spots black, with some
admixture of brown. It is a species of viverra, with a
long snout, and very sharp fangs. That, now caught,
measured a foot and a half from its snowt to the root of
the tail; the latter was of the same length as the body,
with black and gray rings from the root to the tip. The
smell of musk was very powerful in its skin, even after
hanging five or six weeks in the open air.
4th. The trap being again set, a mausehund was
caught, and preserved alive. It was a pretty creature,
fierce and restless, uttering a sharp, barking noise, but
being yet young, easily tamed, and, after some time,
brought to take its meat out of any man's hand. After
294 JOURiNAL OF A
having for some weeks patiently borne its confinement
in a small kennel, it had the good fortune one night to
gnaw off the thong, by which it was fastened, and thus
to regain its liberty.
6th. The Lord's Supper was administered. Though
this congregation is smaller, and consequently the com-
municants fewer in number than at Gnadenthal, yet,
having first at Groenekloof seen a congregation of Chris-
tian Hottentots, and received the first strong impres-
sions in my mind of the inestimable value of that work
of God, by which the conversion of these poor people is
effected, I perceived, that no subsequent circumstances
had effaced them. 1 enjoyed an aftertaste of that pecu-
liar delight which I then experienced, in seeing this con-
gregation, met on so solemn an occasion. The external
appearance of the communicants is here remarkably
neat and clean. Both men and women were dressed in
white cottons, and their deportment was very devout and
respectful. He, who has promised, that, where two or
three are gathered together in His name, He will be in
the midst of them, blessed us with an encouraging per-
ception of His divine presence.
CHAPTER XIX.
Return to England deferred. Consultations about the new
Church. Visit to the Groote Post. Mr. Croucher, Visit
Cruywagens Kraal and Lauweskloof. Particular ac-
count of Brother Schmitfs encounter with a tyger. Of
the first sermon in the Poplar wood. Earth-hogs under-
mining Captain Klapmus'^s dwelling. Cape lark. Jour-
ney to the Cape. Puffadders. Cape Butchers. Engage
a passage in the Brilliant. Account of a Whale. Mr.
Zorn. Mr. Buck. Antelopes. Mr. Hesse. Ride to
Green Point. Granite and Schistus. Return to Groene-
kloof. Rocky eminences. Hartebeest Kopf Cornland.
Hottentot manner of sowing corn. Father Schwinn^s de-
cease. Violent storm.
On the 7th, I received a letter from Mr. Hancke, in-
forming me, that in consequence of my having desired a
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICAp 21)5
passage to England to be secured for me, on board the
first homeward-bound ship, he had provisionally done it
in the Francis and Eliza, which w^ould sail in a few days ;
yet subject to my own decision. The notice being so
short, I was brought into some dilemma, but resolved
to go to Capetown, and make further inquiry. In the
night I was seized with headach, and felt too unwell to
think of setting off in the morning.
8th. My indisposition confined me to the room, both
this and the following day. The weather likewise be-
came unfavourable, and the rainy season seemed to set
in with violence.
lOth. Instead, therefore, of going, I sent a messenger
to the Cape, and declined the offer of a passage oa
board the above-mentioned vessel. Nor had I finished
all 1 had yet to do at Groenekloof. I had afterwards
reason to believe, that it was providential that I was
detained.
llth. In the afternoon, Mr. Melville arrived here,
being engaged to make a general survey of the Groene-
kloof district, and as w^e were now daily considering of
thebestmanner of procuring men and means to build the
new church, we were glad to have so able a counsellor
to assist in our deliberations.
12th. I drew up a writing, to be placed in the founda-
tion-stone, which, in the sequel, was approved and signed
by all the missionaries. After Mr. Melville had left us.
Brother Schmitt rode with me to the Groote Post, to
engage Mr. Croucher, the overseer, to come to Groene-
kloof on a survey of the wood, that we might know what
trees might be useful for spars and scaffolding.
The Groote Post, which is a Government farm, and
hunting-seat of the Governor, lies nearly north of Groene-
kloof. On ascending the heights, it appears, at about an
hour's distance, pleasantly situated, under a range of
low heathy hills. The road passes through a wilder-
ness, covered with rhinocerous and other bushes, har-
bouring various kinds of game. We started some reh-
bock antelopes, and several black cocks or Korhans,
which betray themselves by a loud chattering noise, in
endeavouring to escape. On the hills lie many huge
29 G JOURNAL OF A
fragments of stones, loosely thrown together, affording^
shelter to baboons, wolves, and jackals. But these ani-
mals are seldom seen, without going into their haunts.
They prove their presence in the country, by their fre-
quent depredations and other misdeeds. At night, the
two latter sally forth on predatory expeditions; the
baboon retires into his strono:-hold at sunset.
o
The Conterberg is the highest mountain in this part
of the country ; then follows the Lauweskloof hill.
The lower ranges take a direction from south-west to
north-east.
Much ground has been cultivated at the Groote Post,
and its fields and gardens look like a green carpet,
spread on the brown waste. The house is not large,
and, though said to be built under English direction, is
wholly Dutch in its arrangements. A clumsy flight of
steps leads to the main entrance. The kitchen and ser-
vants' hall are close to the sitting-room, which has a huge
fire-place, quite out of proportion w^ith the size of the
room. One of the wings is divided into cells for visiters,
each containing a neat camp-bed, table and chair. The
building is not worthy to be the country residence of the
Governor of this colony, and his Excellency resides
chiefly at Newlands.
We were welcomed with much civility by the over-
seer, Mr. Croucher. He showed us a flock of about two
hundred lambs, between the Spanish and Cape breed.
The stone, used for building, and brought ofl'the ad-
joining hills and waste, is a variety of grit or granite, its
component parts being remarkably small ! Having
agreed to meet Mr. Croucher on the day following, we
returned, and in passing, saw the Cornland belonging
to our Hottentots, situated on an eminence, called the
Hartebeest Kopf, w^here many of them were diligently
employed, under the inspection of Brother Fritsch.
12th. We walked through the wood with Mn
Croucher. He very obligingly yielded to all our wishes,
and desired, that the trees we thought useful for our
buildings might be marked. He also pointed out a mode
of constructing Hottentot houses in a more expeditious,
convenient, and durable manner, than is done atpresentiL
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 297
and offered to come with a slave, and help to build the
next house to be added to the village ; and otherwise to
render any service to the mission. I mention this with
the more satisfaction, as an opinion had been entertained
at Groenekloof, that he was not friendly to the Mission,
which some former transactions, in which, however, he
was not personally to blame, seemed to justify. How
often do we perceive, that opinions formed from appear-
ances are fallacious ! Nothing, surely, would more pro-
mote the peace of society and goodwill among men, than
frequent and unreserved explanations. Mr. Croucher
came from the neighbourhood of Guildford in Surry, and
is well skilled in the art of rearing and preserving trees.
After dinner. Brother Schmitt rode with me to Cruy-
wagens Kraal and Lauweskloof, both belonging to
Groenekloof By the way, we visited a plantation on
the waste, begun some time ago by Brother Bonatz,
which the heat and dryness of the sand will not permit to
thrive. Cruywagens Kraal is an old Hottentot station,
in a pleasant, fruitful valley, with a supply of water
from a fountain, but now only used for pasture. A con-
siderable number of oxen were feeding upon it. As we
ascended the hill, an extensive view of the Zwartland
presented itself, appearing like a heathy and desolate
plain, with a few scattered farms. The mountains of
Tulbach and Rodesand lay in the back ground, the
highest of which was covered with snow. After cross-
ing the head of the valley, we turned towards that part
of the Lauweskloof hill, where Brother Schmitt, in the
year 1811, had an encounter with a tyger. I had been
very desirous to visit that spot in his company, where he
might describe to me all the particulars of that terrible
conflict. Though a pretty full account of it is inserted
in the Periodical Accounts of the Missions of the Breth-
ren, vol. v. p. 118, in an extract of a letter from his wife
to me, yet 1 believe I shall not be thought to trespass on
the patience of my readers, if I repeat it here, as related
to me by himself, standing on the scene of action.
Wolves having done much mischief at Groenekloof,
where they even entered the yard and took away a
sheep, and in the fields worried several boasts belonging
.30
298 JOURNAL OF A
to the Hottentots, an attempt was made, on the 6th of
August, to find out their haunts, and, if possible, to de-
stroy them. For that purpose, the missionaries Bonatz
and Schmitt, with about thirty Hottentots, set out early
in the morning, towards the Lauweskloof hill, where
they are mostly met with. One of these animals was
seen and lamed by a shot, but escaped and entered the
bushes. The Hottentots followed, but the missionaries,
not expecting to succeed, were returning, when the
party called to them, that the wounded wolf was in
the thicket. Brother Schmitt, rode back, and alight-
ing, entered with a Hottentot of the name of Philip
Moses. The dog started some animal, which those with-
in the bushes could not see; but the Hottentots remain-
ing on the outside, perceiving it to be a tyger, called aloud
to the missionary to return. He therefore, with Philip,
began to retreat backwards, pointing his gun, and ready
to fire, in case the animal made his appearance.
Suddenly a tyger sprang forward, but from a quarter not
expected, and by a flying leap over the bushes, fastened
upon the Hottentot, seizing his nose and face with claws
and teeth. I measured the distance of the place, from
whence the tyger made his spring, to that on which the
Hottentot stood, and found it full twenty (eet^ over bushes
from six to eight feet high. Brother Schmitt observed,
that if it had not been for the horror of the scene, it
would have been a most amusing sight, to behold the en-
raged creature fly, like a bird, over that length of ground
and bushes, with open jaw and lashing tail, screaming
with the greatest violence. Poor Philip was thrown
down, and in the conflict lay now upon, and then under,
the tyger. The missionary might easily have effected his
escape, but his own safety never entered his thoughts.
Duty and pity made him instantly run forward to the as-
sistance of the sufferer. He pointed his gun, but the mo-
tions of both the Hottentot and the tyger, in rolling
about and struggling, were so swift, that he durst not
venture to pull the trigger, lest he should injure Philip.
The tyger, perceiving him take aim, instantly quitted his
hold, worked himself from under the Hottentot, and flew
like lightning upon Brother Schmitt As the gun was
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 299
of no use in such close quarters, he let it fall, and pre-
sented his left arm, to shield his face. The tjger instant-
ly seized it with his jaw, Brother Schmitt with the same
arm catching one of his paws, to prevent his outstretched
claws from reaching his body. With the other paw,
however, the tjger continued striking towards his breast,
and tearing his clothes. Both fell in the scuffle and pro-
videntially, in such a position, that the missionary's knee,
without design, came to rest on the pit of the tyger's sto-
mach. At the same time, he grasped the animal's throat
with his right hand, keeping him down with all his might.
The seizure of his throat, made the tyger instantly let
go his hold, but not before Brother Schmitt had received
another bite, nearer the elbow. His face lay right over
that of the tyger's, whose open mouth, from the pressure
of his wind-pipe, sent forth the most hideous, hoarse, aneJ
convulsive groans, while his starting eyes, like live coals,
seemed to flash with fire.
In this situation. Brother Schmitt called aloud to the
Hottentots^ to come to his rescue, for his strength was
fast failing, rage and agony supplying to the animal ex-
traordinary force, in his attempts to disengage himself.
The Hottentots at length ventured to enter the thicket,
and one of them, snatching the loaded gun, which lay on
the ground, presented it and shot the tyger, under the
missionary's hand, right through the heart. His death
was instantaneous, his eyes shut, his jaw fell, and he lay
motionless. Had any life been left, his dying struggles
might yet have proved fatal to some of his assailants.
Then first Brother Schmitt began to feel the extent of
the injury done to his arm, but his chief concern was to
know, how poor Philip had fared. He found, that he
had exerted himself to rise and help his teacher; but his
face being terribly lacerated, and his eyes filled with
blood, he could not render any assistance. Horses being
provided, they were both brought home.
Sister Schmitt instantly despatched a messenger to
Capetown, to request the attendance of Dr. Cairns, of
the Naval Hospital. The doctor was so much engaged,
that he could not come, till after three days had eJapsecJ.
Meanwhile, the Brethren bad done all in their power to
300 JOURNAL OP A
afford relief, but ^vithout success. The fever and inflfim
mation increased daily. The patient grew dehrious, and
told me, that in his delirium, nothing appeared so dread-
ful to him, as the picture of the tygcr^s open jaws and
fiery eyes, presented to his disordered imagination. He
thought himself still in that position. On the arrival of
Dr. Cairns, every possible means were used to bring
down the inflammation. There were seven deep wounds
in the arm. In two or three places, the tyger's fangs
had penetrated into the bone. For several weeks, the
life of this valuable man w as in the greatest danger, but
by God*s blessing on the unwearied exertions of Dr.
Cairns, and the excellent nursing of his faithful wife, he
recovered.
Standing in the thicket, while I w^as listening to my
friend's account of his adventure, the sun was fast sink-
ing towards the horizon : lengthened shades and evening
gloom overspread the place; imagination began its
work : we thought we heard something stirring among
the bushes, and retreating faster than we had entered,
mounted our horses, and made the best of our way
down a rough road, towards the few Hottentot houses
in the vale.
About a month after the event here related had taken
place, a Groenekloof Hottentot, passing through the
same thicket, saw a large male tyger crouching beneath
a bush, and hoped to be able to shoot it, but his g;un
missed tire. The tyger, however, lay still, keeping his
eyes lixed upon the man, who was glad to retreat back-
wards and make his escape.
Having^ reached the little poplar wood in the vale,
Brother fechmitt showed me the place where Brother
Kohrhammer, on visiting this spot in 1807, by desire of
the Earl of Caledon, delivered the first sermon to about
an hundred Heathen Hottentots, then inhabiting the
Lauweskloot. He stood under a tree, and his congrega-
tion near a pool of w ater in the wood.
Here we were accosted by an old woman, the most
us:ly and detormed Hottentot female I had ever beheld.
She told us, that a slave, by a charm, had destroyed her
beauty, and caused her face to exhibit such bulbous ex-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 301
crescences. Brother Schmitt, who knew her, replied^
that she ought not to endeavour to set her conscience to
rest with that idle and wicked tale, but rather repent of
her profligate life, by which she had brought misery and
ugliness upon herself. She called God to witness, that
the stories told and believed, respecting her wicked life,
were totally false, and used such language, that one
might have supposed her to have been under Christian
instruction, whereas she is a sworn enemy of the gospel,
and never would even enter the chapel at Groenekloof
We next called upon old Captain Klapmus, who inha-
bits a miserable bondhoek, though he aflects to behave
with all the pride of a man of consequence. To see this
poor blind man, groping his way out of his dark abode
to bid us welcome, was a truly pitiable sight. Still more
tlind as to those things which are of most importance to
the soul, he now paid no attention to Brother Schmitt's
friendly invitation to come to Groenekloof. The mis-
sionary reminded him of his daughter's baptism, and the
hopes then entertained by us all, that he would follow
her example, and, in his old age, turn to the Lord. He
excused himself with a lameness in his back, but all good
impression, made upon him at that time, seemed to have
vanished. Yet he expressed himself pleased and thank-
ful for our visit
Earth-hogs had made approaches towards his hut,
which they seemed disposed to undermine. Several of
their holes were not far off, and being aware of the dan-
ger, he made some inquiry about them. We advised him,
either to get his |>eople to destroy them, or to remove
his hut, as otherwise, before he was aware, he and the
old woman that attended him, might be suddenly let down
alive into their sepulchral caverns.
These singular creatures are about as large as a com-
mon pig. They have a long snout, long sharp claws,
very little hair, and a rough skin. Their food is the
ants, and probably other insects. The ants carry their
nests under ground, sometimes to a depth of from live to
eiglit and more feet. The earth-hogs therefore follow
them, and, putting in their long tongue, draw them out
and devour them. The holes made bv these creatures.
3,02 JOURNAL OF A
are often hid among the bushes, and a huntsman cross-
ing the waste, may meet with an unexpected overthrow,
either by faUing into them, or by the earth being under-
mined near the entrance, giving way under the horse's
feet
During this ride, I was likewise made attentive to a
bird, improperly called a lark, • It is about the size of a
lark, flies up with a rustling noise, rises to a moderate
height, and lying on its wings, descends, uttering a
mournful whoop or whistle. Its melancholy note pro-
duces the reverse of the cheering effect of the spirited
song of our European larks.
The sugar-bush grows plentifully in the wilderness,
and in increasing quantity. It has a magnificent flower,
and the wood and roots are good fuel.
1 6th. Letters from Capetown, mentioning a brig, the
Brilliant, Captain Young, as likely soon to sail for Eng-
land, I set out for the Cape, with a sensible Hottentot for
my groom, about eight o'clock. I contrived to converse
with him during the journey in Dutch, and found con-
siderable entertainment in the remarks he made on vari-
ous subjects.
Many tortoises crawl about the waste. They are not
large, generally from six to eight inches long. A small
species called Patlooper, is from four to five inches. In
warm weather, incHning to rain, they are often seen
crawling from one bush to another across the road. Ob-
serving to my Hottentot, that they were the best pro-
tected of all the innoxious animals of this howlino- wil-
derness, he was of a different opinion. The jackals, he
replied, watch for the young tortoises, crack their tender
shell as easily as a nut, and devour them: again, the
crows attack the larger ones, as they are passing over a
place, unprotected by bushes, turn them over, and by in-
serting their long bills into the open parts of the shell,
seize their feet and heads, and most dexterously contrive,
by degrees, to pick out the whole animal. Of that most
venomous reptile,* the puffadder, he gave me several
strange accounts, hardly to be credited. It is said, that
the production of the young brood is the death of the
dam. as they begin their murderous career, by gnawing
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 303'
their way out. of her body. 1 should not mentton thb
circumstance, if 1 had not heard it asserted by men of
credit.
We baited at a farm, belonging to a Mr. Monnick,
who was absent. I walked about the premises, and
found some curious varieties of ferruginous sand-stone,
in scattered fragments. Near theRiet valley, we met a
Groenekloof Hottentot, Immanuel, returning with hi*
wagon from Capetown. He very civilly alighted, and
came up to me, but forgot to deliver a parcel of letters
he had for me. I gladly pardoned his forgetfuloess,
^"which was altogether the consequence of extreme mo-
desty. He is one of the most obliging, sensible, well-
behaved men, I have ever met with in any country. Often
have I admired the manner in which he performed every
part of his office, as a chapel-servant; and in his family
and intercourse with mankind, he is a pattern of good
conduct.
As we were about to ford the Soute Revier, which
was rather swollen, we were overtaken by a butcher in
his cart or curricle,^ driving six horses in hand. As he
had seen me at Groenekloof^ he hailed and oifered me a
seat, to bring me dry through the river, of which I ac-
cepted. The Cape butchers are considered to be some
of the richest men in the country. They fetch their cat-
tle from the interior, pay little for them, run the risk
of getting them safe to town, and sell the meat at a high
price.
With my worthy Cape friends I found a cordial wel-
come.
17th. A passage to England was offered me on board
the Revolutionaire frigate, but though I was assured,
that the man of war w^ould bring me much sooner home,
I felt some misgiving ab©ut accepting the offer. The
evening was most agreeably spent with the Rev. Mr.
Hesse.
18th. This morning I met Captain Young of the Bril-
liant, by appointment, on the pier. We had long to wait
for the boat, and were meanwhile joined by Mr. and
Mrs. Shaw, belonging to Mr. Wesley's connexion, and
sent out on a Mission to the Namaquas. The Captain
304 JOURNAL OF A
invited them to go on board. The Brilliant is a very
fine brig, and I soon made up my mind to engage a pas-
sage on board her, both for myself and Brother Bo-
natz's son, having promised the parents to take him
with me.
Three boats were towing a whale into the bay, and
on our return to shore, we rowed up to it, and took a
view of this enormous fish. It was a female, and pro-
nounced to be but young. She lay on her back, and
measured about twenty-five feet in length, and ten in
breadth across the middle. Having pushed the boat
between a fin and the body, we took off a number of
white, round, living animals, of the barnacle kind, about
an inch in diameter, cleaving to her skin ; as likewise a
creature armed with fangs and tweezers, said to be a
whale-louse. The whales frequent these bays chiefly
to spawn, and almost all those caught here are females.
The delay occasioned by this circumstance, prevented
my accompanying the Rev. Mr. Hesse and his family to
the residence of Mr. Zorn, late landdrost of the Cape
district. Mr. Polemau, however, took me out in his gig.
I met there Mr. Bresler, formerly landdrost of Graaf
Reynet, and Mr. Matthiesen, a member of the Court of
Justice. I was glad of an opportunity of expressing the
thanks of our Society to Mr. Zorn, for the kindness he
always showed to our missionaries, when they first oc-
^cupied Groenekloof. The afternoon was pleasantly
spent, and we all returned to town on foot. The night
was warm, and the heavens brilliantly bespangled with
stars. But for the absence of the leaves of the oaks,
poplars, and other foreign trees, the weather about this
time was equal to the finest summer-weather in Europe.
Mr. Hesse walking with me, we entered into much in-
teresting conversation concerning the difference, more of
expressions and forms, than of opinions and doctrines,
which distinguish the Lutheran and the Brethren's
Churches. He thought, however, that there existed
some material difference, as to our views of certain re-
ligious tenets, and that, at least, the Brethren had ex-
pressed their sentiments very unintelligibly. This is
granted to have been the case in former times, for which
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 305
many apologies have passed unnoticed. But as to those
peculiar doctrines, which constitute the very essence of
Christianity, the divinity and atonement of Christ, salva-
tion by grace alone, justification by faith, and the neces-
sity of a walk conformable to the word of God, we and
all true believers of every denomination, have always
agreed, however we may otherwise difler in non-essen-
tials. The more the former are valued, and practically
known, the farther the latter will recede into the back-
ground.
1 9th. This forenoon, I accompanied the Rev. Mr.
Hesse to the free-school, which is conducted on Dr. Bell's
plan. We saw the scholars write and cipher.
Mr. Matthiesen had invited the whole of Mr. Zorn's
yesterday's party, with others, to dinner at his house in
de Heere-Kracht, near the parade. With him and Mr.
Zorn I had much conversation, concerning the present
state and future prospects of this colony. They differed
widely in their opinions, respecting the policy of present
measures, but both seemed to be equally desirous of pro-
moting their country's welfare.
20th. This forenoon I visited my pleasant ship's-com-
panion, Mr. Buck. He had been on a hunting expedi-
tion to Saldanha bay, and informed me that he and his
party had shot a hundred and six antelopes. This
led once more to a subject, frequently discussed on board
the Albion, the useless waste of animal life. Very few
of these antelopes could become food, either for the
huntsmen or their dogs ; the rest were left miserably to
perish in the wilderness, killed or maimed, merely to
gratify the momentary vanity of being a good marksman.
But is not this disposition in mankind owing to a diabo-
lical influence ? The least that can be said of it, is this,
that it belongs to those inordinate desires, which, for a
time, seem to suppress all proper feeling, even in a heart
otherwise benevolent and kind.
To-day I was introduced by Mr. Alexander to Mr.
Dash wood, the proprietor of a farm, called Gaensekraal,
near Groenekloof
21st. Having promised the Rev. Mr. Hesse that I
would play the organ during the morning-service, at the
30
#
306 JOURNAL OF A
Lutheran church, I went early, but found the great or-
gan quite out of tune, and was obliged to be contented
with the choir-organ and swell. A hundred dollars per
annum is paid to a person to keep it in order. I spent
the whole day with my reverend friend-and his family,
and, in the evening, took a short ride with them to Sea
Point and Green Point, on the coast, west of the Lion's
head.
Since the English have been here, the great consump-
tion of grain had encouraged many inhabitants to culti-
vate the land between the mountains and the sea, though
rather unfruitful, the sward of earth upon the rocks
being only between one and two feet in thickness.
Trees, therefore, will not thrive, but the situation is
well studded with small neat houses and villas, and with
gardens and hedges of low bushes. Mr. Alexander's
premises on Green Point exhibit some very beautiful
geraniums, from three to four feet in height. Here we
alighted, and walked to the rocks. Limpets, of from
four to five inches in diameter, cleave to them, which,
when cleaned and polished, have brilliant colours. At
Sea Point, the rocks are chiefly granite, in huge masses,
or in strata. Blue schistus appears to lie under them,
and inserts itself into the fissures and crevices of the
granite. Some men of science here insist upon it, that
this schistus is the ground-work of all these mountains,
and that the Lion's head and other granite mountains
are strata lying upon it. 1 will not attempt to decide
the question, from the imperfect observation I had an
opportunity of making. The situation we had visited,
not having a single spring of fresh water in it, is denomi-
nated, De Kleene Zwartland. The inhabitants either
collect rain-water, or send for water to the town. The
coast is a favourite promenade of the town's-people, and
we met several parties on foot, or in carriages.
22d. Having paid short morning-visits to some friends,
I took leave of my kind hostess^ Mrs. Disandt, about ten
o'clock, and left Capetown, in company of Mr. Melville,
on horseback, intending to reach Groenekloof to-night.
We halted at a farmer's house, to the right of the main
ro.^d^ but, not finding him at home, would not be trouble-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 307
some to his family. A dead ox, just skinned, lay near
the house-door, a sight not well calculated to create an
appetite, nor to give a very elevated idea of the gentility
of the inhabitants. We therefore, after a short rest,
proceeded, trusting to the strength and patient abstemi-
ousness of our horses, and reached Groenekloof early in
the morning.
23d. Brother Fritsch's birthday was celebrated by the
Hottentots and the family, nearly in the same manner as
mentioned page 99. In the afternoon, he accompanied
me to some eminences, about two or three miles north
of the settlement. Upon the first, a curious assemblage
of large blocks of granite form a mass of a singular
kind; some, of a pyramidal form, stand upright, others
lie horizontally. The interstices between them are filled
with many kinds of bushes, and a variety of plants, inte-
resting to a botanist. The second is called the Bavians-
terg, belonging to the Groenekloof estate. Its summit
is likewise covered with rocks and masses of granite,
among high bushes. I was made particularly.attentive
to the great quantity of olive-bushes growing upon it,
some of which have stems six or eight inches in diameter,
and rise to twelve or more feet in height. A variety of
the speckboom attracted my notice. The stem and
boughs are easily broken, having hardly the consistency
of a carrot or parsnip; the leaf is light-green, waxy,
oval, and about two inches by one in surface.. The
whole upper part of the hill or hills, of which the
Baviansberg consists, is covered with a wilderness of
every kind of bush and shrub, common to this country,
forming an almost impenetrable thicket. In endeavour-
ing to penetrate into it, to have a nearer view of some of
the rocks, we soon found resistance made to our pro-
gress by thorny plants of various kinds, particularly by
one, called Warn en beetgen^ or " Stop a little,'' as it
catches the stockings, or some other part of dress, and
patience is required to extricate one's self from its barbed
hold. Some thorns lie low enough to tear away shoe-
strings or knee-bands, and others penetrate the skin.
We were glad, after much trouble, to get back into the
r>pad.
308 JOURNAL OF A
On the Hartebeest Kopf hill, we found several of our
people busily at work^ sowing corn. Their manner of
doing it is singular. They first cast the corn upon the
waste, then plough over it ; but as they seldom plough
as much land as they overcast, the seed, thus exposed
during the night, becomes the prey of birds or field-mice,
which they patiently suffer. When I represented to
them the injury they sustained, they insisted upon it,
that it must be so done in this country, and endeavoured
to explain the reason, which 1 must confess myself too
dull to have comprehended.
The harrow they use is a triangular frame, formed of
three pieces of wood, furnished with teeth, four or six
inches asunder, and doing very little execution. But pre-
judice defends even this bungling contrivance.
I observed in that part of the waste, over which I walk-
ed to-day, a great quantity of Vlachdorn, a decoction of
which is so useful in the stranguary, as mentioned above,
(page 262.) But its use is hardly known in these parts,
where many an ox dies of that horrid disease.
My conversation with Brother Fritsch, led me better
to understand many subjects connected with the peculiar
circun^stances and situation of this missionary establish-
ment ; and I may here observe, that the confidence, with
which all the Brethren treated me, both here and at
Gnadenthal, contributed more to that knowledge which
I obtained of the external and internal state of the Mis-
sion, than any official statements, I feel myself truly
thankful for their unreserved communications.
The Groenekloof farm comprehends a large lot of
ground. The Hottentots enjoy the benefit of it, and
keep, altogether, about four hundred head of cattle ; but
as to paying any, the most reasonable, consideration for
their fields, gardens, and other advantages, it never en-
ters into their thoughts. Hitherto, the Mission must bear
^11 expenses, but by degrees, they should be taught to
understand the justice and necessity of paying a small
rent, to cover expenses, incurred merely for their sakes.
26th. Having received from Capetown the leadenrbox,
meant to contain the writing to be placed in the founda-
VipR-stpne, Brother Schnaitt weijt with me to the hill near
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 309
the ravine, where, having fixed upon a large block of gra-
nite, he marked the square hole to be cut into it, to con-
tain the box. The Hottentot mason set about it very
dexterously.
At home, I was busily employed both with correspon-
dence, and other affairs relating to the Mission. Towards
evening it began to rain hard, and the wind rose conside-
rably. During the night the gale increased.
27 th. The new wall of the dwelling-house, now rebuild-
ing, was so much injured, that great part of the new
work must be taken down. Mr. Melville returned to us.
In the evening, Carl Stompje, came express from Gna-
denthal, by the short road over the Fransche Hoek, in
two days and a half, and brought the news of the decease
of Father Schwinn, on the 25th, early. Though, when
I left Gnadenthal, he seemed to be fast declining, under
a complication of disorders, yet we did not so soon expect
his final release, and felt deeply affected on reading the
letters received from our brethren, containing a circum-
stantial account of his last illness and departure, and of
the great sensation produced among the Hottentot con-
gregation by this event.
When, in 1792, leave was granted by the Dutch Go-
vernment, to renew the Mission, he, with his two col-
leagues, Marsveld and Kuehnel, arrived at the Cape in
November of the same year. On the 24th of December,
they fixed upon the spot, where the first founder of the
Mission, the late George Schmidt, had resided in 1737.
The deceased visited Germany in 1799, but returned to
his station in 1800.
He was a man of a remarkably cheerful and active
mind, and possessed great courage and firmness. His
public ministry was distinguished by many bold and con-
vincing testimonies of his taith, which he delivered with
peculiar energy, speaking from the abundance of his
heart, with demonstration of the Spirit, and conviction to
the hearts of his hearers. The Christian Hottentots will
always revere his rxnemory. He baptized three hundred
and thirty-two persons, old and young, many of whom
have departed before him in the faith of Christ.
Qn the afternoon of the day of his departure, the
310 JOURNAL OF A
mournful event was announced to the congregation by
Brother Clemens, and caused many tears to flow. The
Hottentots were afterwards admitted, in order, into the
chamber, to see the corpse of their beloved teacher.
They reminded each other of many exhortations given
them by him, on so many occasions, and mourned as
over the loss of a father.
On the day preceding the funeral, a great number as-
sembled around the corpse, and under the grove before
the door, and sung hymns expressive of the happiness
of those, who depart this life, trusting in the merits of
their Redeemer, and of the blessedness of that commu-
nion of saints, which unites all true believers with the
spirits of just men made perfect.
The funeral was attended by a crowded congregation,
and by many neighbours, who highly respeeted the
character of the deceased. Many more would have
joined the company, had the river Sonderend been ford-
able at the time. Brother P. Leitner delivered the fune-
ral discourse on Rev. v. 13, 14, and the strictest order
and attention was maintained throughout the whole of
the service.
28th. The congregation at Groenekloof was likewise
much affected, on being informed this morning, at church,
of the loss the Mission had sustained by the departure of
Father Schwinn. They expressed their sorrow v/ith
many tears.
In the afternoon, two persons were baptized. The
bumble, but fervent manner, in which the solemn ques-
tions put to the catechumens are answered by them,
again affected me so much, that some exertion of mind
\Yas required to permit me to attend to the ceremonial
of the transaction.
After they had returned thanks, as is their usual cus-
tom, the husband of the baptized woman, being yet un-
baptized, but a man of orderly conduct, came to the
missionaries, to express his gratitude for the favour
granted to his wife, whom he earnestly wished to fol-
low in obtaining the same privilege. This was rather
unusual ; for, in general, they cannot well bear a partner
to precede, in any advance in the church. During the
■'m-.
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 311
night, the gale increased to a violent storm. It blew
down the vine-bower before the dwelling-house, but did
no more damage to the new building.
29th. Carl Stompje set out on his return, notwith-
standing the unfavourable appearance of the weather,
loaded with letters for Gnadenthal. During the day, it
rained and hailed much, and towards evening, we were
alarmed for the safety of our roofs. A violent squall,
with lightning, thunder, and hail, some of the stones
being as large as a walnut, passed over us. The hail
seemed to be whirled about by the violence of the wind,
and tore a part of the reed-thatch from the roof. The
cessation of the storm was almost instantaneous. About
midnight all was still. Till then, the lightning was re-
markably vivid.
31st. The Governor called here in his way to the
Groote Post. His Excellency informed us, that, during
the late violent gale, the Revolutionaire frigate, the
Zebra, and some more ships, in Simon's bay, had been
driven on shore, as likewise two ships in Table bay.
This is an uncommon effect of a storm at the Cape,
for, as the land is very high, between Simon's and
Table bay, the one is generally considered safe, when
the wind sets into the other ; but, on this occasion, the
storm was more like a hurricane, the wind shifting seven
ral times to different points.
312 JOURNAL OF A
CHAPTER XX.
Hard frost. Account of Sister SchmMs school. Visit to
the Governor at the Groote Post. Destruction of trees
by Hottentots. Their diligence at work among the rocks.
Jlnts'^ nests^ used as ovens- Quarry. Aloe garden de-
stroyed. Cuytges^ salamanders^ and serpents found. Foun-
dation of the new church. Zaccheus Deba^ a Caffre from
Gnadenthal. Journey to Capetown. Reflections on the en-
joyment of earthly comforts. Mr. Sieurvogel. Capetown
dogs. Rev. Dr. Jones^ Senior chaplain. Apologies not
attended to. Mr. Slabberfs wagon and ten horses. Yel-
low finches. Chameleons. Elephant-stones. AIoy-Mack^s
Revier. Farewell discourse. Laying the foujidatton-^
stone of the new church. Mr. Schroeder. Dacha^ a
poisonous plant.
August 1st. It had frozen very hard last night, and the
ice was in some places nearly an inch thick. The air,
however, was perfectly clear, and the sun shone warm.
As I was making a sketch of the rocks behind the stables,
Sister Schmitt's school-girls came towards me, one carry-
ing a plate, with a piece of ice in it, fast melting in the
sun. They asked me, whether the water, flowing from
the ice, might be drank with safety, as they thought that
it was poisonous. I gave them some information on the
subject, and when I described the quantity and thickness
of the ice in the northern regions, and told them of the
immense ice-mountains and fields, floating in the ocean, I
perceived, by their astonished looks, that, had they not
thought one of their teachers incapable of falsehood or
exaggeration, they would have suspected me of sporting
w^ith their credulity.
These children are from ten to fourteen years old, and
instructed, out of pure charity, by Sister Schmitt, in sa-
tin-stitch, tambour, and plain work. It is surprising, with
what neatness they have learned to execute it. When
Sister Schmitt first arrived at Groenekloof, and saw the
wretched state of most of the Hottentot children, it ex-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 313
ceedingly distressed her, and having perceived, that
most ofthe Hottentot women are good seamstresses, and
teach their girls early the use ofthe needle, it occurred
to her mind, that they might soon learn to work satin-
stitch, which she herself perfectly well understood. She
therefore tried the experiment with one or two, and suc-
ceeding, added more to the number. By these means^
she taught the children to earn their own bread, and
even to afford relief to their poor parents.^ Her country-
woman. Sister Leitner, has done the same atGnadenthaL
Being invited to dine with the Governor at the Groote
Post, I met there Captain Cloete, Mr. Bentinck, and Mr.
Ward. We were spending the afternoon very pleasant-
ly, when a despatch announced to his Excellency the
death of his brother at Lisbon. Some time after he had
left the room, he sent the letter for our perusal. The
mournful news was heard by the company with sincere
sympathy, and we spent the remainder of the day in si«
lence and reading.
2d. While I was waiting for my horse, to return to
Groenekloof, the Governor, coming into the room, de-
sired me to spend the day with him. I had much con-
versation with his Excellency, concerning various sub-
jects, and thought my time not unprofitably spent. He
kindly acceded to some proposals, laid before him, tend-
ing to remove unpleasant disagreements between neigh-
bours.
During the forenoon, Mr. Croucher, by his orders,
showed me a new plough, made of cast iron, worked with
only two horses, or four, if more depth of furrows is re-
quired, without holding the shafts. He wished me to
recommend it to our missionaries. In the evening, I took
a solitary walk to the hills, and went up to some rocks,
or large fragments of granite. They form a good fore-
ground to a view of the Groote Post, lying in the plain.
The Table-Mountain and its companions adorn the
horizon.
3d. I set out early, and was followed by the Gover-
nor, who, after breakfast, passed through Groenekloof,
on his return to Capetown. He was in better health
and spirits. 1 had caught a violent cold, and felt unwelL,
40
314 JOURNAL OF 4
But a packet of letters from England made me forget all
indisposition.
5th. In the afternoon, visiting some Hottentot families.
I observed an unfinished house, the v^alls of stone, and
well built, and inquired into the reason of its being left
in that state, when I found, that it was owing to a want of
wood for the doors, roof, and furniture. This led to an
explanation respecting the possession of the wood, and
prevented the poor people appealing to the landdrost
against the overseer, who had very properly prohibited
their cutting wood at their pleasure, by which, formerly,
a great many trees have been destroyed. Till better
instructed, the Hottentots have no thought beyond the
present moment, and being too lazy to stoop aiwl apply
their axe to the bottom of the stem, they chop it off as
high as they can stand to it, besides maiming others by
cutting off their branches, or tops, without any attention
to the growth of the tree. The general scarcity of wood
makes it therefore highly necessary to prevent such mis-
chief, and as they may have what wood they want, to
build their huts, if they only apply to the overseer, there
is no hardship in their asking for it. They were satisfi^
ed, when Brother Schmitt explained the matter to them.
In the evening, the family met to a consultation re-
specting the commencement of the building of the new
church, and the means of providing food anddwelhng for
any additional hands.
6th. To-day we began to carry stones from the rocks
behind the stables, to lay the foundation of the church,
and I was much pleased to see the zeal and spirit, with
which the Hottentots went to work. There w^as indeed
a good deal of amusement connected with it, which, with
them, is a great stimulus to exertion. Many very large
stones were dislodged, and dragged to the building, on a
strong sledge, by ten oxen. In separating two parts of
an immense block, which, by some violence not account-
ed for, had a crack right through the middle, a nest of
ar ts of the largest size was laid open. They were from
half, to near three quarters of an inch long. Almost
every stone seemed to afford protection to larger or
smafiler ants. They differed from those, which raise
w
VISIT TO SOtJtH AFRICA* 315
solid nests of clay in all parts of the wilderness, in shape
like a baker's oven, and used for that purpose in the in-
'terior. The Caffres, when first permitted to settle at
Gnadenthal, before they could build ovens, according to
the custom of their country, availed themselves of these
tumuli, and having expelled or destroyed the inhabitants
by fire and smoke, scooped them out hollow, leaving a
crust of a few inches in thickness, and used them for ba-
king, putting in three loaves at a time. The clay of
which the nests are formed, is so well prepared by these
industrious insects, that it is used for the floors of rooms,
both by Hottentots and farmers.
7th. The people continued their work at the stones as
long as the weather remained fine, and I frequently ac*-
companied Brother Schmitt, when he attended them.
No European labourers could work with greater dili-
gence and effect. We had engaged a Dambra Hotten*-
tot, called Ephraim, to work in a quarry at the top of
the eminence, where the granite was split into irregular
strata, nearly in a perpendicular direction. The quarry
yielded good stone for building walls. The large masses
above ground, were of a harder texture than the stones
under the surface. Thin layers of schistus cleaved to
some part of the latter. Ephraim distinguished himself
by his steadiness and persevering diligence. The Dam-
bras differ much in their manners from the Hottentots of
this country, they are of a more swarthy complexion,
and have features better formed.
When a large stone was dislodged, I generally
met with something deserving attention. To-day I saw,
for the first time, that singular animal, called by the Hot-
tentots the mountain-salamander. It is shaped like a li-
zard, but broader, seven or eight inches long, and scaly.
The scales on the tail are pointed, and stand off from the
body, but whether generally, or only in fright or anger,
I cannot tell. A nest of young cuytges was uncovered.
This is a small species of newt or asker ; its bite is said
to be very venomous, and as it lodges in old thatch, the
Hottentots are very cautious in taking down an old roof.
Ur^der some of the stones we found caterpillars, black and
hairy.
316 JOURNAL OF A
By the operation of grubbing up, and removing these
stones, which may have lain there since the deluge, many
flovi^ers, much beautiful shrubbery, and a great quantity
of aloes, were destroyed. 1 defended them as long as I
could, but was obliged to submit to the necessity of using
the stones. The ground was strewed with flowers and
bulbs, shattered aloe-leaves and beautiful plants, but
I was assured, for my comfort, that, after a short rest,
the earth would bring forth abundantly, and the aloes
and fahlblar again adorn the spot. By far the greater
part of the masses of stone, being beyond the power of
man to move, they still present a singular and beautiful
group of rocks, and the removal of the smaller fragments,
laying the larger masses more open, gave them more
picturesque dignity.
9th. Brother Bonatz, after the meeting for instruction,
having proposed to the men, that they should begin to
dig the foundation of the church, they immediately fell
to work, with great alacrity.
The ground opened easily, but some remnants of old
walls were discovered, the farm-house belonging to the
Dutch Company having occupied this spot, previous to
the building of the present dwelling-house. At the west
corner, water appeared, not proceeding from a spring,
but oozing out of a sandy stratum. Beneath the sand
Was a layer of a kind of pipe-clay, and to this we were
obliged to penetrate, to get a firm foundation. In the
afternoon, I visited several families in the village.
10th. After breakfast, I went to the people at work
among the rocks. Between two large flat stones, one
laying on the other, leaving a small space between them,
we discovered the nest of the serpent, called here, cobra
di capella. A Hottentot lad, who had fortified himself
against the poison of a serpent's bite, was called, and
took out three young ones. One of them I put into a
bottle of brandy. We had scarcely disposed of them,
before a bergadder made his appearance. It was seized
by the neck, and sent after the cobra di capella, into the
bottle. Under the same stone, a scorpion, and several
large spiders were found. In the evening, Ephraim
killed and sent me a young Nachtschlange, or night-ser-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA* 317
pent, beautifully marked with yellow, vermilion, and
dark-blue rings.
11th. Many Hottentots attended the public service.
Brother Schmitt delivered an animated discourse on the
gospel of the day; and in his prayer commended the
building of the new church, and all who take share in
it, to the blessing and protection of our Heavenly
Father.
12th. Mr. Melville surprised us very agreeably, by
his unexpected arrival. 1 delivered to him the Govern-
or's order, to make a diagram of this place, by which I
had the satisfaction to detain him. To-day, a Caffre,
Zaccheus Deba, arrived here from Gnadenthal, with let-
iers and journals. The letters from our missionaries
described the impression made upon the Hottentots, by
the departure of their beloved Father Schwinn, as very
great. They still wept tears of remorse, when they
ealled to mind his affectionate zeal and admonitions, and
his tender concern for the salvation of their souls, and
for their improvement in all things that adorn the Chris-
tian character. We hope that the effect pf this contri-
tion will be salutary and permanent.
13th. Being a memorial-day in the Church of the Uni-
ted Brethren, it was celebrated with due solemnity. At
nine we met in the chapel. I had never seen this place
so well filled, nor a more attentive auditory. Every
bench was crowded, and the children sat on the ground.
Brother Schmitt delivered a suitable discourse, in which
he introduced a most luminous, and, even to Hottentots,
intelligible, account of the event which gave rise to
this festival. (^See Crantz^s History of the Brethren. Part
I. p. 115.)
Mr. and Mrs. Slabbert were present, on their return
from the Cape, and expressed great satisfaction and asto-
nishment at the devout behaviour of the congregation.
He informed us, that the sailing of the Brilliant was put
off till the 7th of September; a delay which I then much
regretted.
In the evening, the Holy Communion was administer-
ed, the Missionaries having previously met, to encourage
each other to brotherly love, and that union oi spirit,
318 JOURNAL OF A
without which the best intentions, plans, and talents,
remain unprofitable in the service of God; for only
" where brethren dwell together in unity, there the Lord
commandeth his blessing."
14th. In the evening, the CafFre, Zaccheus Deba,
came into my room, to take the letters I had written to
GnadenthaL One object he had in view, in offering
himself to go as messenger to Groenekloof, was to see
me once more, and to tell me, that his wife had departed
this life, rejoicing in God her Saviour. He added, that
before her departure, she had particularly requested
to be remembered to me, with that assurance, that she
had continued to pray for me, that the Lord would bless
me, and grant me a safe passage to England. 1 felt
thankful for the prayers of this worthy woman, whom I
had frequently seen, and conversed with, and knew as a
very exemplary character. The mild, humble deport-
ment of Zaccheus, was particularly noticed by a gentle-
man present.
15th. I accompanied Mr. Melville to Capetown. We
proceeded gently, engaged in pleasant conversation, and
were seven hours on the road. At Mr. Melville's house,
we found two gentlemen, just arrived from Van Diemen's
Land. They gave an entertaining account of that earthly
paradise.
It would be tedious to relate, in order, all the various
occupations and visits, by which my time was employed,
during my present stay at Capetown. I will, therefore,
only observe, that the society of my friends, the Disandt
family, Mr. Hancke, Mr. Poleman, and the reverend
Mr. Hesse, proved a source of great enjoyment to my
mind.
18th. I attended divine worship, at the Lutheran
church. The organist played more soberly than usual,
but could not refrain from performing a very brilliant
rondo, from one of Haydn's symphonies, when the ser-
vice was over. I felt the impropriety of introducing it
into the church, but could not help admiring the very
great dexterity with which he executed the most difficult
passages, and made them tell on the organ. I was dis-
I
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 319
leased with myself, for not being more displeased with
ira.
With a very highly esteemed friend, I had a conver-
sation on several subjects, which made a deep impres-
sion upon me. Being rather of an anxious turn of mind,
he expressed surprise at the confidence and cheerfulness
of some Christians. He related, that he was educated
in the celebrated Paedagogium at Halle in Saxony,
where, contrary to the intention of its founders, he and
others were taught to entertain scruples concerning the
principal doctrines of Christianity, and to explain away
those scriptures, which the JYeologen^ or Socinians and
Deists, found to bear against their favourite opinions. But
as he could find no comfort and peace in the new doctrines
of self-enhghtened men, he began well to consider those
which they had rejected, and, by slow degrees, seemed
to obtain more faith in them, and to consider them as the
basis of all sound religion. He wished, however, to
know my views of that real and convincing experience
of the efficacy of faith in Jesus, and the atonement made
for sin, which a true believer o»ght to possess. I gave
him a plain and faithful account of the manner, in which
" it pleased God to reveal his Son in me," though natu-
rally averse to religion, falsely supposing, that it tended
to check all cheerfulness, and the enjoyment of the plea-
sures of this life, whereas I now knew, that the only
way to live happy, and innocently to enjoy that good,
which God has left to us in this world, as " a witness for
himself,'' for our use, improvement, and comfort, was to
make sure, that He is our Father, Friend, and Deliverer
from the curse and punishment of sin, as declared in the
Gospel.
My friend observed, that ever since he had become ac-
quainted with me, he had wondered how a man of so
lively a disposition, could belong to a community so re-
cluse and religious as that of the Church of the Brethren,
in which there were so many checks, by particular rules
and regulations, against the ways of the world, and
its pleasures and amusements. He added, however,
that, in general, he had always found those members
of our Church, with whom he had become acquainted,
320 JOURNAL OP A
lively and cheerful people, and attentive to the inno-
cent means of making their lives and dwellings on
earth comfortable. This led to a consideration of
the effects of true conversion of heart, when a man is
turned from the love of the world and sin to his
God and Saviour, and has his " conversation in hea-
ven." To him it is no act of painful self-denial to
avoid the things that lead from God, and no punish-
ment to be excluded from them. Surely no one has
more reason to be happy and contented than the man
who expects, that better things than those, which he
now possesses, will shortly be his portion : he uses the
world, yet as not abusing or cleaving to it; and
enjoys all the gifts of his Creator with a thankful heart
But I felt, that I ought to take his remark as a kin^
admonition, to beware, lest too much vivacity and at-
tention to objects, which afford pleasure to the mind,
and engage the activity of the intellectual part of
man, though sinless in themselves, should sometimes lead
to forgetfulness of higher and more important spiritual
concerns.
With his Excellency the Governor, 1 had an opportu-
nity of conversing on some arrangements at Groenekloof,
by which real service was done to the Mission. From
Colonel Bird, I experienced the same kindness.
Brother Schmitt found Mr. Sieurvogel, a timber-mer-
chant, disposed most honourably to abide by a verbal
agreement respecting the price of the timber, wanted
for the building of the church at Groenekloof, though by
the loss of his vessel, the Young Phoenix, in the late
storm, tuHber had risen considerably in price. But a
conscientious man needs no legal tie, to bind him to a
promise.
For several nights I was much disturbed in my sleep
by the continual barking and howhng of dogs in the
street, about which the inhabitants seem not to trouble
themselves. A large number of these animals have no
masters, but find food, shelter, and places to litter in,
wherever they can. The people go and pick out such
puppies as they think will turn out well, and leave the
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 321
rest The heavy rain may have been troublesome to
these stray-dogs, and the cause of their nightly vocifera-
tions.
Before I left Capetown, I visited the Rev. Mr. Thorn,
employed by the Missionary Society in London, with
whom I had much friendly conversation, concerning the
state of their, and our Missions. I also waited upon the
Senior Chaplain, the Rev. Dr. Jones, who returned to
the Cape some time ago. His services to the colony
have been highly beneficial, especially as it regards the
improvement of schools. To his benevolent exertions,
we owe the building of the school-house at Gnadenthal,
and the introduction of Dr. Bell's plan of teaching, as
far as it is practicable among Hottentot children.
Brother Schmitt engaged a master-builder, Mr.
Schroeder, to undertake the building of the new church
at Groenekloof, who advised us to make as many bricks
as we could.
After a very pleasant visit, having transacted all our
business with satisfaction, we took leave of our worthy
friend and hospitable hostess, Mrs. Disandt, and return-
ed, on the
22d, to Groenekloof with Mr. Slabbert, in his travel-
ling wagon, he driving ten horses in hand. The four
nearest to the wagon are guided by a servant with reins,
while his master, sitting beside him on the box, governs
the other six, by a dexterous use of the long whip.
23d. I was engaged with packing, intending to send a,ll
our baggage on board the Brilliant, which, as the Cap-
tain informed us, would be ready to sail by the «ftth of
September. The Hottentots had not forgotten the bot-
tle of serpents, but brought me a young pufFadder, and
three chameleons. The chameleons were found in the
nest of a yellow finch. The poplar wood at Groenekloof
abounds with these nests. They are like bags, suspend-
ed from the ends of the smaller branches of trees, to
render them secure against serpents and vermin, but
the chameleons had contrived to dislodge the poor birds,
and seize upon the nest. The lateness of the sea-
son prevented my taking any animals alive. My
friends had provided for me several tortoises, chameleons,
41
322 JOURNAL OF A
fresh water turtles, (a gmall turtle about four inches
square,) and even a 3^oung baboon.
25th. In the afternoon the whole family, accompanied
by Mr. Melville, visited the Oliphants' Klippen, (Ele-
phants' stones,) near the Klaberfalg, Mr. Duckett's farm.
They are detached masses of granite, erect, or in a lean-
ing posture, situated in a valley, as if they had been
thrown from an adjoining hill, or rather, left there by
the washing away of the ground, when the valley was
formed. Every eminence in this neighbourhood also, is
crowned with a collection of stoqes, forming a kind of
rock among the bushes. Many beautiful flowers were
now beginning to peep out, as the spring was fast ad-
vancing.
26th. Mr. Melville's wagon conveyed all my heavy
baggage to Capetown. In the afternoon. Brother Bo-
natz accompanied me on a visit to that part of the set-'
tlement called Moy Mack's Revier, which lies to the
right of the Cape road, on entering the farm. A small
stream passes through it, crosses the road, and, skirting
the little wood, helps to irrigate the grounds in that part
of the village under the hill.
The cottages are of the meaner kind : the gardens
slope down towards the brook: the soil is a dry sand,
and will require much culture, before it is turned into a
fruitful mould. Peter, a Dambra Hottentot, has the best
garden, and is an active man. The people seemed much
pleased with our visit. We then went to the upper row
of cottages, to the left of the road, and there saw a
woman upwards of a hundred years old. Sister Schraitt,
who had joined us, accosted her, but she appeared quite
stupid. Her children and grandchildren live with her.
She had been an inhabitant for six years, but seemed
perfectly indifferent about religion. Of late, how-
ever, she sometimes asked a person, in whom she had
confidence, whether it were still possible for her to be
saved.
The people now begin to dig in their grounds, and in
a short time they will look well. But for want of
hedges, they cannot prevent their neighbours' cattle
from entering their grounds, which sometimes produces
Visit TO SOUTH AI'RICJA. 32S
great uneasiness. Since, by the Governor's kindness, the
boundary is now defined, and there need be no more
contention about the wood, 1 endeavoured to impress
upon the people the necessity of attending to the mak-
ing of hedges, and that plantations should be promoted
as much as possible, yet under proper regulations, that
there may be no useless waste, or even destruction of the
young trees, by improper* treatment, Mr. Croucher,
who visited us about this time, gave the best advice^
being well versed in the management of woods.
27th. We visited that part of the village which we
could not reach yesterday, for the inhabitants would have
been greatly disappointed and grieved, if 1 had not called
at every house and hut. In the evening, a couple were
married at the church.
30th. Our friend, Mr. Slabbert, returning from the
Cape, brought with him the master-builder, Mr. Schroe-
der. With the latter, Mr. Melville and I conferred
about the plan of the new church. In the valley to the
north of the farm, we sought and found brick-earth, and^
on examination of the premises, Mr. Schroeder declared^
to our great satisfaction, that every facility existed here
within reach: good clay for bricks, a sufficient quan*^
tity of stone, water, and the right sort of sand. He also
pronounced the pipe-clay under the sand, to be a good
foundation.
I read my farewell-address this evening to a crowded
auditory. After I had finished. Brother Bonatz took
the chair; and, after making some observations on my
visit and voyage, concluded with prayer, commending
me and his son Adolph to the protection and blessing of
the Lord.
31st. This was the day appointed for laying the foun-
dation-stone of the new church. The ceremony took place
at 10 A. M. Early in the mornings a number of Hotten-*
tots had conveyed the stone from the hill to the spot
They delighted in the work, and there was no want df
hands. The stone was of a triangular shape, its south
side, four feet five inches; east side, three feet six inches;
north-east side, five feet six inches ; and one foot four
324 JOURNAL OF A
inches in thickness. A square hole had been punched into
it, to hold the leaden box, with the writing.
The service was conducted in the following manner :
Brother Schmitt opened it with that hymn;^^ASm^ hallelu-
jah^ honour^ praise^ &c. and then addressed the congrega-
tion in a suitable discourse. The people stood, both
about the ditch, and within the space enclosed. He then
read the texts of Scripture appointed for the day ; ^'' Re-
joice^ because your names are wiitten in heaven, Luke x. 10.
Many^ O Lord my God^ are Thy wonderful works^ which
Thou hast done^ and Thy thoughts which are to us-ward: they
cannot be reckoned up in oi'der unto Thee : if I would declare
and speak of them^ they are more than can be numbered. Ps.
xl. 5.'' Brother Fritsch read the Dutch translation of the
contents of the parchment, which he held in his hand,
and having delivered it to me, I placed it in the leaden
box; Brother Stein deposited it in the foundation-stone.
Mr. Schroeder followed, put a fiat stone over it, and gave
a stroke upon it with a mallet. Each of us followed, re-
peating the stroke, as is usually done on such occasions.
A verse being sung, Brother Bonatz, kneeling upon the
stone, offered up a prayer. The congregation then sung
that hymn, JYow let us praise the Lord^ &c. and the bless-
ing being pronounced, the assembly dispersed.
It was a solemn and delightful service. The Hotten-
tots seemed fixed to their places in attention and devo-
tion ; and several friends, who were present, expressed
their admiration both of their behaviour, their joyful
songs of praise, and their fervent expressions of grati-
tude to -God for the mercies bestowed upon them. A
spirit of joy and gladness prevailed on this occasion,
which, by God's blessing, gave a new stimulus to the ex-
ertions of all engaged in the building, and contributed
not a little to its completion, in a manner which has given
general satisfaction.
Mr. Schroeder, having given us some good advice, left
us in the afternoon. We met this evening to make ar-
rangements previous to my departure.
There is in this country a plant, called by the Hotten-
tots Dacha, a species of wild hemp, (cicuta.) Some of
, them smoke it like tobacco, or mix it witli the latter herb,
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 325
and are exceedingly fond of it. Its effects upon the hu-
man body are dreadful. It not only takes away the sen-
ses for a season, even more completely than drunkenness^
but, by degrees, undermines the constitution, weakens
every faculty of mind and body, and makes cripples of
those that continue in the practice. It is necessary,
therefore, that most determined resistance should be
made against this destructive propensity, and by a rule
estabhshed in our settlements, the use of dacha is to be
entirely abandoned. Whoever is guilty of smoking it,
is excluded ; but a seducer of others to the abominable
practice, expelled. The chief complaint against the
Hottentots is, that they are incorrigibly lazy, and unfit
for labour. In most instances, the cause of it is the use
of this poisonous herb. Who would believe, therefore,
that the very men who complain, should encourage the
growth of it in their grounds, and sell it to the Hottentots !
Yet this I have seen with my own eyes, even where I
least suspected it.
September 1st. Being Sunday, the Hottentots came in
parties, between the services, to take leave of me^ and
with many of them I entered into pleasant conversation.
There Were some good spokesmen among them, who ex-
pressed the sentiments of their brethren in very affec-
tionate terms. Two Dambras, Ephraim and Peter, gave
me particular satisfaction, by the modest, unaffected man-
ner, in which they declared their gratitude and good-
will.
In the afternoon, all the missionaries met, when I had
an opportunity of delivering my sentiments to them con-
cerning the Mission in general, and their situation in par-
ticular. In the evening, the Lord's Supper was adminis-
tered to the communicant congregation, at which I assist-
ed. If I were to express my feelings on this occasion, it
would be but a repetition of what I have written concern-
ing my last communion at Gnadenthal. The appearance,
devotion, and attention of the Hottentot congregation at
this place, was anew the subject of my admiration and
thanksgiving for such a miracle of God's power and
mercy.
326 JOURNAL OP A
CHAPTER XXL
Departurefrom Groenekloof. Detained at Veldcornet Ver^
wey. The Governor'' s offer of a passage in the Zebra sloop
of war. Consequent arrangements. Visit to^ and de-
scription of Constantia. Its Vineyards^ cellars^ and beau--
tiful situation. Return to Groenekloof
September 2d was the day, when I expected to close
my abode at Groenekloof. The visits of the Hottentots
continued to the last moment before my departure. Mr.
StoU, the landdrost of the Cape district, arriving here in
the forenoon, expressed great satisfaction with the pre-
sent state and progress of the Mission. He has always
approved himself a friend, readj to give advice and as-
sistance.
Jacob Conrad, a Hottentot, of his own accord, offered
his spann of eight horses, to convey me and my travel-
ling companions to Capetown ; and as his wagon was a
very inconvenient vehicle, Mr. Melville, who had given us
the pleasure of his company for several days, lent us his
travelHng wagon.
After dinner, the family met in my room, and after a
short address by Brother Bonatz, commended me and my
young companion Adolph, to the grace and protection
of God our Saviour, on our journey and voyage to En-
gland. A considerable number of Hottentots had mean-
while assembled before the door, with every one of
whom I shook hands, and bid them farewell, not ex-
pecting that I should so soon see them again. While
we were entering the wagon, they sung a farewell-hymn,
and accompanied us for about two miles, to Papkulls-
fonteyn, not intimidated by the rain, which kept us shut
up in the wagon.
Sister Bonatz having taken an affectionate leave of her
son Adolph, returned with the Hottentots, and the Bre-
thren Fntsch and Stein. Her husband, and Brother
Schmitt and his wife, accompanied us to the Cape. Mr.
Melville rode on, to bespeak a night's lodging for us at
the Veldcornet Mr. Verwey's, where we met with a cor-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 327
dial welcome, and good accommodations. It blew and
rained hard all night, and in the morning of the
3d, we found it impossible to proceed. We were,
however, well housed, in good spirits, and, contrary to
expectation, spent the day very pleasantly, as each felt
disposed.
An old man, going from place to place, to teach
the children reading, writing, and ciphering, but not
good manners, which are not required, was at this time
an inmate of the house, and, like most of these itinerant
schoolmasters, seemed to lay down the law on all ques-
tions of importance. It would be cruel and unwise to
detract from their consequence or authority, by inter-
ference or contradiction.
The rain ceasing for an hour in the afternoon, we
went to see the little Sout Revier, (Salt river,) which,
even in winter, is but a small stream, but now, by the
heavy rain, was swollen into a very deep and rapid tor-
rent of considerable breadth. It is chieny owing to the
want of the smaller streams and brooks, which, in Europe,
descending from the hills, intersect the plains in all
directions, that South Africa remains, and I fear must,
in a great degree, remain a wilderness. After all the
observations I have been able to make and to collect,
during my journey through great part of the colony, I
must ascribe this deficiency to the character of the South
African mountains. Almost all their summits consist of
precipitous rocks. Very little earth, consequently very
few morasses are found upon them, and the rain, which
is abundant in the rainy season, instead of falling on a
spongy soil, retaining the water for a considerable time,
and gradually dealing it out in rivulets and brooks,
dashes with violence, from the rocks, down the steep
declivities, and in destructive torrents sweeps along the
kloofs and valleys, frequently and suddenly destroying
the labours of many years in places, where, in summer.
a small streamlet scarcely furnishes water suflicient for
the use of a family. The bushes, covering a great part
of the waste, preserve, by their shade, some moisture on
the ground, and are providentially furnished with roots
of disproportionate thickness, which, imbibing the water,
328 JOURNAL OF A
give them sustenance, and maintain their verdure in the
dry season. It is also said, that in many beds of tor-
rents, by digging, water may be found, though the heat
of the sun has banished all appearance of it from the
surface.
4th. Though the rain had continued violent all night,
we ventured to proceed. Heavy showers occurred all
day; but when we proposed to spend the night at the
Riet Valley, the friendly farmer advised us rather to
push on, and, avoiding the Drift, which was by this time
an unsafe fording-place, to cross the Sandhills, and drive
along the beach. We followed his advice, found the
beach a good hard road, and though the surf looked
rather wild, and in some places rushed in upon us as
high as the axle-trees, we got on well, Mr. Melville and
his groom Jephtha riding before us. By God's mercy,
we passed safely through the little Drift, and the broad
sheet of water at the Great Salt river, which were both
of considerable depth.
5th. My friend, Mr. Hancke, informed me, that owing
to the rough weather, the Brilliant had not been able
to take all her cargo on board, and would not sail as
soon as first intended. All our baggage was yet on
shore, which afterwards proved of advantage to me.
I was engaged all day in visiting my friends. At the
Colonial Office I called upon Colonel Bird to thank him
for the many civilities experienced from him during my
stay in the colony. The Governor was not at home,
but in the evening, wrote a note to inquire, whether I
would return to England in the Zebra sloop of war. In
answer, I informed his Excellency, that I had taken my
passage on board the Brilliant brig. Captain Young.
We spent a very pleasant evening with the Rev. Mr.
Hesse, where we met the Rev. Mr. Thom, who declar-
ed his intention of making a journey into the interior, to
visit Kango cave, and endeavour to ascertain the geo-
graphical position of sundry places. His object also was
to preach to the Hottentots and slaves, wherever he
might find an opportunity,
6th. After breakfast, having received a note from his
Excellency, I waited upon him at the Government-house.
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 329
He observed, that he deserved no thanks for offering me^
a passage on board the Zebra, as he was seeking his
own profit by it, wishing me to accompany his son Flan-
tagenet, who was going to England in that vessel. I
felt greatly distressed not to be able immediately to com-
ply with his wish, the more so, as it was my duty to
show, by every means consistent with prior obligations^
my gratitude to him for the great kindness he had shown
me, during my stay in the colony. The engagement I
had made with Captain Young was easily dissolved, but
my promise to take home the son of my friend Bonatz
seemed an insurmountable obstacle. It is needless here
to enter into a detail of the conversations and negotia-
tions that passed on this subject, suffice it to say, that
though the father's disappointment and uneasiness were
great, on first mentioning to him his Excellency's pro-
posals, yet as both he, and the rest of my companions,
were desirous that I might yield to the Governor's
wishes, an arrangement was made, by which I was set
at liberty, to the entire satisfaction of the father, to w hom
I considered myself bound by previous promise. The
Captain was a man, in whose faithfulness he could place
full rehance, and a family, going home as passengers on
board the Brilliant, were wiHing to pay every attention
to his son. Having paid the Captain half of the passage-
money, I put myself under the direction of the Governor^
and of Captain Henry Forbes, commander of the Zebra^
to whom his Excellency had previously introduced me*
The Zebra was to sail on the 20th.
8th. Though the termination of this affair had been
completely satisfactory to all parties, yet some gloomy
thoughts continued to haunt my mind, regarding the ex-
traordinary situation, into which I had been so unexpect-
edly thrown. Nor did I willingly part with my young
friend Adolph, whose affectionate disposition and good
sense had made his constant attendance in my various
walks about Groenekloof very pleasant to me. But as I
verily believe that nothing happens to me, but by the
permission of God, to whom I have fully committed my-
self in all my ways, I endeavoured to "cast my burden
upon the Lord," and to believe, that all things would
4^
330 JOURNAL OF A
work together for my good. Of this I have now made
full experience.
Mr. and Mrs. Melville set out this morning for Groene-
kloof After thej^ were gone, we went to the parade,
where the military were drawn up to receive General
Sir Alexander Campbell. 1 spent a good part of the
forenoon with Mr. Polenian, in whose company I always
receive much pleasure and information. We dined at
home, to celebrate Mr. Grant's birthday, and spent the
evening most agreeably with the Rev. Mr. Hesse. He
and his family were going into the country, and fearing
that I should not see them again, I took leave of them.
9th. This day was devoted to a trip to Constantia.
Mr. Hancke was the contriver and director of this ex-
cursion. He had provided two sociables and six. The
company consisted of Mr. Hancke, a lady of his acquaint-
ance. Brother Schmitt and his wife, Brother Bonatz and
his son, and myself We set out at six o'clock, and took
the road by Newlands. The weather was delightful.
The oaks and other foreign trees were fast getting into
leaf, and throughout all nature, spring showed itself
swiftly approaching.
Our conductor ordered the carriages to proceed by a
road, which gave us a view of several romantic situations.
We passed through the Wynberg-camp, a place I was
glad to see, as having been the residence of our late
i^issionary, P. Kohrhammer, when, in 1805, he was ap-
pointed Chaplain to the Hottentot regiment by Governor
Jansen. The camp lies in an elevated situation, and is
considered the most healthy spot in the neighbourhood
of Capetown. The soldiers are quartered in barracks.
An extensive prospect opens from hence across the
Cape Downs, towards the mountains of Stellenbosgh and
Simon's Bay.
About half past nine we arrived at the house of Mr.
Colin, one of the proprietors of Constantia and soq-in-
law to Mr. Cloete, by whose family we were kindly and
hospitably received. After a short introductory conver-
sation, we walked out to see the gardens. They lie in
a hollow, below the house, and are laid out in tlxe Dutch
style, with a covered walk. The vineyards are situated
VISIT TO SOUTH APRICA. 331
on an eminence, gently sloping towards the east Many
of the vines are old, and will be removed next year, to
make room for others. They are without spaliers or
poles, standing singly, like currant-bushes in a garden.
The rich, sweet, Constantia vine grows only within a
certain boundary. Mr. Colin, junior, pointed out a
hedge, behind which, all attempts to raise the same
grape have failed.
We now walked across part of a farm, belonging to
Mr. Sebastian Van Rhenen, who is preparing to make^
vineyards, and hopes, in a few years, successfully to vie
with Messrs. Cloete and Colin, as he supposes the soil to
be of the same quality. On the road we met a Hottentot
boy, who had just killed a black serpent, about five feet
long, and an inch and a half in diameter.
After a pleasant walk, we reached Mrs. Van Hel-
stinge's house. The old lady received us very politely,
and insisted upon our tasting all the different wines made
on her property. Among them were Hahnen Pootgen,
white and red ; Frontiniac ; Klipp-wine, and another, of
a rough taste. From her garden, a charming view pre-
sents itself A narrow, woody glen, with a pretty villa
at the farther end, belonging to one of her relations, runs
up to the south-east side of the Table Mountain. Over
the woods to the left, are seen the rocks and mountains
forming Hout-bay. Near the dwelling, an avenue of
large oaks affords some shade, but little attention has
been paid, either to convenience or elegance.
We returned through a forest of Witteboom, in which
the late storm had done much mischief Many hundred
trees were thrown down, or torn up by the roots. On
our return, Mr. Colin took us into his cellar, or rather
warehouse, a long building, containing casks holding
several tuns of wine, standing upon racks, in rows, down
each side, leaving a wide passage between them. In the
centre stands a table, set round with sophas and chairs,
where the company is regaled with some of the choicest
Constantia, at the fountain-head.
After dinner, as soon as the cloth was removed, a
merry fellow entered the room, took a chair, and seat-
ing himself between two ladies, began to talk, laugh.
333 JOURNAL OF A
and drink wine, as if he were one of the party. This
man was an old slave, of a frolicsome turn, kept for the
amusement of the family. He addressed me, in gib-
berish, which I did not understand, but suppose I lost
no instruction by it. Though his office seemed to be
that of a jester, kept to fill up the vacuities occurring in
African conversation, his presence was very annoying.
Much rather would we have seen the natural grimaces
and tricks of a tame baboon, generally holding the same
situation with many farmers in the interior, than such a
prostitution of human intellect.
After dinner, we visited Mr. Cloete. His house, which
is not far from that of his son-in-law, is situated on an
eminence, commanding an extensive prospect over the
Cape Downs, to the Hangeklip, on False-bay. The
house and premises are well built, and prove the long-
existing wealth of the owners.
Constantia was built and settled by the celebrated
Governor Van Stell, the founder of Stellenbosch, who,
by his superior sense and liberal mind, proved a great
promoter of the welfare of this colony. He named the
place Constantia, in honour of his wife, that being her
Christian name. He was a man of great activity; en-
terprising, and generous. Many of the best situations in
the colony owe their origin to him. But it is said, that
the Company gained nothing under him, as he studied
only his own private interest. Be it so ; they have, how-
ever, been great gainers by the effects of his industry,
and, no doubt, he deserved to reap the benefit of his
talents, while he lived. Two statues, in niches, one over
the door of the mansion, and the other over the cellar-
door, are intended to represent the lady Constantia.
After walking out to see the vineyards, which are
very extensive, we spent an hour in pleasant conversa-^
tion. The cellar is constructed lik^ that of Mr. Colin,
and his wine not superior.
Adjoining the cellar, is a room with a billiard-table.
From the back-door, a flight of stone steps leads to a
l^rook in a close vale.
Mr. Cloete has always been a friend to the missionaries
^t Groenekloof, and vyas some time ago their neighbour^
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 333
He is now lame, and thought that he could not return
the visit at Groenekloof.
A large grove of old oaks, planted in quincunx, affords
shade to the premises, and the plantations are kept ia
good order. There is an appearance of ancient gran-
deur about the place, v^^hich pleased us much. In the
hall stands a stalactite, taken out of a cave near Caledon,
about eight or nine feet in length. It is set upon its
broad top, and narrowing fast towards the middle, made
a Dutchman think that its beauty consisted in its resem-
blance to a huge candlestick, with the candle in it. That
vitiated taste, however, is fast declining among the
Dutch, and nature is no longer outraged as formerly,
when trees and hedges, cut into all manner of shapes,
constituted the beauty of a Dutch garden. At this ab-
surdity we Enghsh laugh, while we are committing a far
greater outrage, in cruelly maiming horses, dogs, and
cats, by cutting off their tails and ears, to improve their
beauty !
After taking a dish of tea in the English fashion, we
bid adieu to our hospitable host, and returned to town.
The evening of this bright and very hot day, turned out
so cold, that we were glad to get soon housed, and com-
fortably seated at Mrs. Disandt's fireside.
10th. I had a long conversation at the Government-
house with the Rev. Mr. Hough, and afterwards with his
Excellency in his study. We dined with Mr. Sebastian
Van Rhenen, and spent the rest of the day agreeably
with our friends.
12th. I dined with the Governor. A mail having arri-
ved from England, much interesting intelligence was
communicated. Captain Forbes informed me, that the
Zebra would come round to Table-bay at the end of the
week, and that I might entertain hopes of soon following
the Brilliant. I then prepared to return to Groenekloof,
where I intended patiently to wait, till summoned to go
on board.
14th. Having paid several short farewell-visits, we left
Capetown in Mr. Slabbert's wagon, w^ith ten horses in
hand.
When we arrived at the Drift, near the Riet Valley^
334 JOURNAL OF A
seven oxen were lying dead on its bank. They belong-
ed to a wagon with fourteen, which had attempted to cross
the Drift, when, by advice of the farmer, we took the
road along the beach, as mentioned above (p. 328.)
The water being very deep, and the stream too powerful,
the poor creatures were taken off their feet. The wagon
was saved with difficulty, and seven of the fourteen oxen
were drowned. The carcasses had been skinned, and left
to tbe^wolves and jackals. Our horses took fright at the
disgusting sight, and set off with us into the bushes, but
the skill of our driver soon brought them again into order.
CHAPTER XXIL
Sailing of the Brilliant. Iron plough. Seacoast near
GaensekraaL Mr, Dashwood'^s farm. Shells used for lime.
Account of the Dunen. Waxberry bushes^ and manner of
boiling wax. Laatste Stuiver. Brick-making. Visit
Fapkulls'fonteyn^ Wolfskloof Burger'^s post^ and Lange-
fonteyn. Sand-fies. Arrival of Gnadenthal masons.
Mr. Melville. Second farewell at Groenekloof. Hotten^
tots'^ manner of setting a brick-kiln. Departure from Groe-
nekloof
September 15th. My return to Groenekloof was unex-
Eected ; but I was again welcomed with much cordiality,
oth by the missionaries and the Hottentots.
By a letter from Brother Bonatz, we were informed
that the Brilliant sailed to-day. The sailing of this ves-
sel raised the first serious disquietude in my mind, as I had
very slight hopes of soon following and overtaking her,
before she reached England. Pleasant as my stay at
the Cape has been, yet, thinking that I had executed my
commission, I now felt somewhat restless, wishing to re-
turn to my duties at home.
17th. I rode with Brother Fritsch to the Groote Post,
to show him the new iron plough mentioned above,
(p. 313,) hoping that it might, with advantage, be intro-
duced at Groenekloof, where agriculture is yet conducted
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 335
after the Hottentot fashion. Mr. Croucher being absent,
a Serjeant of dragoons attended us. We looked at seve-
ral ploughs of English construction, and I was glad to
be informed, that the manufactory, established here, can-
not furnish them fast enough for the increasing calls from
the interior. Some have lately been sent to Uitenhagen.
This shows an increase of good sense, and a decrease of
prejudice in favour of the old, clumsy, wooden, Hotten-
tot plough.
On our road home, we passed through the Klaberfalg,
the residence of Mr. Duckett.
18th. Mr. Duckett, jun. called upon us, with an invi-
tation from his father to dinner. As I expected every
day to be my last at Groenekloof, we declined it, but in
the afternoon. Brother Schmitt took a ride with me to
his house. The road leads thTough the upper or eastern
part of the village. After passing the Elephant-stones, the
valley is narrow, but rich and fertile, and Mr. Duckett,
being an excellent farmer, makes the most of it. The low-
hills to the right are adorned with a profusion of wild bush-
es, with huge blocks of granite, fancifully dispersed among
them. Their summits are crowned with assemblages of
the same stone, forming broken rocks. We saw Mr.
Duckett in his garden, alighted, and joined him. Groene-
kloof being this year rather scantily supplied with gar-
den-produce, he kindly offered, out of his abundance, to
give us what we might send for.
When we arrived at the house, we were kindly re-
ceived by Mrs. Duckett, who treated us with the most
friendly attention. The conversation turned upon im-
provements in farming, and furnished an opportunity of
removing some misunderstanding. Perceiving that I was
an admirer of natural curiosities, Mr. Duckett presented
me with the tail of a pylstort, (arrow-tail,) a fish caught
in Simon's-bay. The tail itself is slender, and about
fourteen inches in length. From the upper part of its in-
sertion into the body, proceed two sharp bones, serrated
on both sides, placed above each other, the lower, three,
the upper, two inches long, which the fish can turn in
any direction, inflicting a most severe and dangerous
wound on its enemy. Every tooth of this bony saw acts
336 JOURNAL OF A
as a barb, and if once inserted, cannot be extracted witii-
out great laceration of the flesh. It attacks sharks and
other large fish with impunity, as all dread the experi-
ment of having their throats pierced by such formidable
weapons. The specimen given to me was taken with
a shark.
I was glad to have paid this visit, which seemed, for
the future, to ensure the friendship of a very respectable
neighbour.
19th. This morning, Mr. Fisher, the mason, with a
party of our own Hottentots, and a slave belonging to
Mr. Schroeder, began to work at the foundation of the
new church. The huge stones, brought from the aloe-
garden, now came into use, and were placed in the
trench. They form a foundation unusually strong.
Though I was much engaged w^ith writing, I could not
forbear going out sometimes to see the people at work,
and was highly gratified with their cheerful diligence.
In the evening. Brother Bonatz returning from the
Cape, brought me the unpleasant intelligence, that
the Zebra would not sail before the beeinnino: of Oc-
1 O t)
tober.
20th. Though it rained all day, our Hottentot masons
went on with their work at the foundation. In the eve-
ning, a Government messenger arrived, on his way to
Saldanha-bay. He had fallen from his horse and hurt his
thigh and arm, but found here relief and good quarters.
Two plans of the front of the new church, one proposed
by the builder, Mr. Schroeder, and the other by Mr. Mel-
ville, were submitted to the family. The latter, being
the most tasteful, was unanimously approved ; a decision
worthy to be imitated by parish-vestries and building-
committees, in our enlightened country. I was desired
to write to Gnadenthal and encourage the Hottentots to
come to the assistance of their brethren in forwarding
the work.
21st. Mr. Melville accompanied me on a walk through
the settlement. We conversed with several families,
and I thought I perceived a rising disposition for the
improvement of their grounds, which deserves encourage-
ment.
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 337
22d. A young woman departed this life in the faith of
Christ, bearing witness to all present of the happiness of
those, who find mercy, and obtain assurance of their
being accepted, through His merits and all-sufficient
atonement. Her funeral was attended by a numerous
company. Brother Schmitt addressed himself particu-
larly to the young people, whom he exhorted to follow
the example of their deceased friend, to forsake the
world with its vanities and pollutions, and to press for-
ward to the attainment of tnat same faith and hope of
eternal life, which had supported her during a linger-
ing illness, and in the awful moment of death, and en-
abled her to leave the world, rejoicing in her God
and Redeemer. His serious and affectionate discourse
seemed to make a deep impression on the audience.
The funeral was conducted with the greatest order
and devotion, as described in my account of Gnaden-
thai, (p. 91.)
23d. Having written a letter to the congregation at
Gnadenthal, as requested above. Brother Stein set out
this morning, as our envoy, to convey our wishes to our
Brethren, and to the Hottentots, in that settlement.
Immanuel went with him, as groom. The weather
turning out fine, the Brethren Schmitt and Fritsch ac-
companied me to Gaensekraal, near the seacoast, on
a visit to Mr. Dashwood. The road is uninteresting,
leading through a barren, sandy wilderness, with not a
cultivated spot on either side. But the bountiful Creator
has likewise here clothed the waste with an incompara-
ble profusion of flowers, which, in some places, cover the
sand between the bushes, as with a rich carpet. We
discovered several tortoises waddling along, and took up
five, being varieties of the same species, but of different
shades of colouring. One was new to us, having pro-
tuberances on the seams enclosing each compartment ol
the shell.
To our great disappointment, we found an empty
house at Gaensekraal. We therefore left our prey nnd
our great coats with a dragoon, and proceeded through
a level country, overgrown with large bushes, to the sea-
coast. The mole-holes not a little annoyed us and our
43
ySB JOURNAL OF A
horses. Several antelopes started up close to us, and
the ne3,rer we approached the coast, the more dense
was the thicket, so as to render it difficult to penetrate
to the water's edge, which, where nearest, may be about
two miles from the farm. Many speckbooms, olive, and
milk-bushes, are intermixed with the rhinoceros bushes,
in wild Goofusion. The coast is not high, but rocky, with
a broken beach and sand. A strong westerly wind
caused a considerable swell and surf, which, after dis-
mounting on the beach, kept us at a respectful distance
from the advancing surges. On their retreat, we discor
vered a fine hard sand, but durst not venture to walk
upon its smooth surface. An innumerable quantity of
large muscles coyer the coast every where, mixed here
and there with the beautiful sea-ear and other shells,
peculiar to these regions, but all in a broken state. The
shells are brought by cart-loads to the farms, and burnt
in kilns, as lime for mortar. The rocks are a dark-gray
schistus, with narrow veins of quarts.
Finding it too troublesome to lead the horses more
than about an English mile over the rough shells and
pebbles, we returned to Gaensekraal. The sandy road
exhibited the fresh track of a wolf. This bushy coast is
infested by wolves and leopards, which commit many de-
predations in the neighbouring farms.
While we rested at the house, I wrote a letter to Mr.
Dashwood, to explain a mistake respecting a strange
Hottentot in his service, who pretended to belong to
Groeneklqof. This fellow having been guilty of pilfer-
ing, in his flight, passing through Groenekloof, left the
stolen property on the roof of a cottage, which caused
the inhabitant to be suspected by Mr. Dashwood, as be-
ing in league with the thief, though quite ignorant of the
transaction. Mr. Dashwood expressed himself perfectly
satisfied with the explanation given, and I felt anxious to
remove the unpleasant impression made by misrepresen-
tation, purposely employed by a known enemy to the
Mission, in the mind of a man, who always had been well-
disposed towards it.
Gaensekraal is a good farm ; the buildings are supe-
rior to many in the country, and the grounds extensive.
VISIT t«0 SOUTH APIllCA;^ 339
but bare of trees. The little wood, which formerly
adorned the premises, was cut down, under an idea, that
it harboured birds, particularly a kind of starlings, that
do great mischief in the fields. But no where have I
seen such flights of these birds as in Mr. Dashwood's
grounds. Thus the place had been robbed of its beauty,
to little purpose. On our journey home, we did not see
one tortoise to add to our collection, but some curious
beetles and lizards.
24th. Every morning I am greeted by the pleasant
chirping of two swallows, cock and hen, which have a
nest in a corner of the room, under the ceiling. There
is hardly a room, kitchen, or out-house in the country
without these inmates, and it would be thought next ta
murder to kill them. They build their nests of clay, in
the shape of a bottle, the bottom being fixed to the wallf
and the neck serving for the entrance. Into these bottle-
shaped nests, they convey the softest down. As far as I
was able to watch them, both cock and hen assist in the
construction, or repairs of the nest, which remains for
their use during their emigration. The same birds al«
ways return to the same nests, and if it happens, that, by
white- washing the room, the outside of the nest has beeti
whitened, they carefully cover about half the length of
the neck with fresh clay, before they make a new bed*
As the upper half of the room-door generally stands
open during the day, they go in and out whenever they
please, but if the door is shut, they give notice of their
wish to go abroad, to fetch either materials or food, by a
gentle piping and flying about the room, and none think
it too troublesome to let them out. At dawn of day, they
are heard chirping their morning-song, before they leave
the nest. I have often left my bed, to open the door for
them.
These birds are shaped like the European swallows^
but, under their wings, of a red-brown colour. They
leave the country during the winter. They are persecu-
ted by a bird called the wild swallow, black and white irt
colour, which is said to kill the domestic one, and seize
upon its nest. The wild are on that account shot, or
otherwise destroyed by the Hottentots*
340 JOtJRNAL OP A
This being Sister Schmitf s birth-day, the Hottentots,
particularly the girls belonging to her school, did every
thing in their power to show their affection and esteem
for her, and I was again delighted with the sincere and
%vell-merited expression of their gratitude for her faith-
fulness and kindness towards them.
We had an agreeable visit from Mr. Stoll, landdrost of
the Cape district, Dr. Liesching, and Mr. Gieh, who
walked through every part of the settlement with appro-
bation. It afforded a desirable opportunity of giving
explanations, and rectifying some erroneous notions.
25th. Having heard much of the singular appearance
of the range of Dunen, or sand-hills, along the coast, I
rode thither with Brother Fritsch, and was struck with
surprise, when we entered among them. Their appear-
ance from Groenekloof is rather unpleasant, and not un-
like a low sandy dyke, skirting the waste in a straight
line. But I found them occupying a very wide field, ex-
tending to several miles from the seacoast. The fine
sand, which is chiefly pulverized quartz, and as white as
snow, is here blown about, like sleet on a frozen surface,
forming hillocks of considerable height, and in shape re-
sembling huge drifts of snow. The flats between them
are destitute of any verdure, the surface being almost
constantly in motion. To-day the south-east wind blew
pretty strong, and small parallel ridges were continually
forming over the whole surface, by its operation upon the
sand. In other parts, especially where deep recesses or
glen^ are defended by the hillocks, the waxberry-bush
has found shelter, sChd growls in great abundance. To
a superficial observer, it appears not unlike box. Some
of the stems are as thick as a man's leg, and the bushes
from eight to ten ket in height.
Our path wound round between the hillocks, sometimes
over soft sand, through which the horses waded heavily,
and again over a hard bottom, like frozen snow. In a
deep glen, we saw several of our people from Groene-
kloof, diligently employed in gathering wax-berries.
They sent a little boy to show us the way to a place sur-
rounded by high banks, where they had erected a hut^
and kept their apparatus for boiling the berries, and ex-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 341
tracting the wax. The renters of the neighbouring farms
claim a right to this property, and our people were re-
quired to ask their permission to gather the berries.
Though this had been done, a man had yesterday warn-
ed off the women engaged in boiling wax ; they had
therefore hid their iron pot, for fear of seizure. But on
discovering us to be friends, they produced it, and show-
ed us the process, which is perfectly simple. The pot is
hung over the fire, by running a thick stick through its
handle, which is supported at each end, by a fork placed
in the ground, at a convenient distance from the fire.
After the berries have boiled some time, the wax appears
on the surface of the water, and is skimmed off with a
spoon. Two kinds of wax-berry bushes grow here, one
smaller than the other. The berries of both have much
the appearance of those of the juniper.
From hence we rode to the Laatste Stuiver, a parcel
of land containing much sweet grass, and wax-berry
bushes, for the possession ^f which the missionaries had
applied to Government, that they and their Hottentots
might have a change of food for the cattle. But it had
already been advertised to be disposed of to the best
bidder.
27th. In the afternoon, I walked out to see the brick-
makers. A number of girls had offered their services,
to place the new-made bricks in rows to dry, and as
amusement accompanied the work, nothing could exceed
their diligence. Some, who think working in their fields
and gardens a labour too great to be supported for any
length of time, work here and in the quarry, for many hours
successively, with a zeal, activity, ,and good-humour,
which surprised me. Hitherto the weather had favoured
us, but most of the bricks, in drying, cracked by the heat
of the sun. This was afterwards avoided, by different
management in mixing the clay.
During the latter days of the month, I spent my time
chiefly at my desk, relieved by a daily morning-walk to
the masons and brick-makers, and an evening's visit to
the quarry, which proved more and more productive.
October 2d. Brother Fritsch rode with me to Pap-
kulls-fonteyn farm, inhabited by a friendly neighbour.
342 JOURNAL OF A
We took the road round Cruy vvagens-kraal hill, crowned,
hke others, with loose masses of granite, som;e of which
have fanciful shapes. Not finding our friend at home-,
we conversed some time with the family at the door,
without quitting our horses. They showed us a young
cub of a baboon, brought from the mountain, which, of
all creatures I have yet seen, was the most frightfully
disgusting object, and in its manners equally unpleasant,
squeaking, jabbering, and twinkling its eyes in a head
and wrinkled face too large for the body.
We kept on the north side of the hills with the im-
mense waste of Zwartland to our right, and beyond it
the beautiful ranges of mountains from the Piquetberg to
the Hangeklip. At the back of the Lauweskloof hill, is
the Wolfskloof, into which we penetrated as far as we
were able. The singular rocks or fragments of stone
lying, or standing upright, either on the summit or de-
clivity, deserve notice. Cattle were feeding among the
bushes, and, as the herdsmen informed us, safely, though
the whole region is considered as the haunt of wolves
and tygers. Several ledges of rocks, which overhang
dells, filled with high bushes, form here snug retreats for
wild beasts of every description. Formerly it was a
noted haunt, and now and then one of the above-men-
tioned animals is seen and hunted in the kloof. From
hence we rode to the Burgers Post, and paid a short
visit to Mr. Eckstein. On the road. Brother Fritsch was
thrown from his horse, and we were thankful that no
harm was done.
In the afternoon the Governor, with his usual retinue,
passed through our premises. He informed me that Cap-
tain Forbes, in going to Simon's bay, had met with a
severe fall, which would confine him for some days, but
that the first lieutenant would bring the ship round to
Table-bay.
3d. Brother Stein, having returned from Gnadenthal,
gave us a very interesting account of his visit. Many
Hottentots, on hearing my letter, had declared their in-
tention to come and help their brethren here in the build-
ing of the new church. I much regretted, that I had not
accompanied him. During the forenoon, I rode with
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. SV3
Brother Schmitt to Langefonteyn, to pay a farewell-visit
to our worthy friend, Mr. Dirk Slabbert, but we did not
find him at home. The sun shining very warm, we were
much troubled with a species of sand-fly, which fixes
upon the face, ears, and neck, if not defended by crape
or some other means, to the great annoyance of tra-
vellers.
4th. Our good-natured Hottentots, perceiving that I
had begun to collect serpents, brought me several kinds,
among which were the nachtschlange, (night-serpent ;)
earth-serpent ; eyerfreter, (egg-eater ;) schaapsteker,
(sheep-stinger ;) and cobra di capella.
5th. Brother Schmitt went to town, to attend a sale
of iron, and several articles useful for the building. I had
the pleasure of Mr. Melville's company, who was still dili-
gently employed in measuring the whole district ofGroe-
jnekloof. Several Hottentot workmen arrived from Gna-
denthal, for whose board and lodging provision had been
made. They visited all the missionaries on the
6th, and expressed their willingness to assist in build-
ing the church, and their happiness to make acquaintance
with their Groenekloof brethren, in a manner which gave
me renewed pleasure, for it was a display of that union
of heart, which exists among real Christians of all classes.
In their behaviour, that blessed truth seemed, in a great
degree, established, that the " fruits of the Spirit are
love, joy, peace, long-suffering, gentleness, goodness,
faith, meekness, temperance." Nothing surely is more
encouraging, than to behold these effects of the preach-
ing of the gospel to the heathen, as sure proofs, that it
has been received in faith.
7th. Mr. Melville was obliged to leave us for some
time. We parted from each other with mutual regret.
I shall ever remember with gratitude to God, by what
unforeseen circumstances we were made acquainted with
each other, that he might be led to accompany us on
our reconnoitring-journey into the interior. In a variety
of ways, his presence afforded us assistance, comfort, and
delight, and I pray, that he may be rewarded with a full
enjoyment of every temporal and spiritual blessing.
8th. In the morning, at tvvo o'clock, Brother Schmitt
344 JOURNAL OP A
returned from the Cape, and informed me, that the Zebra
was to sail on Sunday next. This made me resolve to
go to-morrow to Capetown, to be in readiness. In the
forenoon, Mr. Slabbert, in his travelling-wagon and ten
horses, passing through Groenekloof to the Cape, offered
to take me with him, but the missionaries prevailed upon
me to decline it, and to follow in the mornmg on horse-
back : nor was my impatience to proceed homeward
powerful enough to repress the rising regret I felt at
parting a second time from friends, endeared to me by
so many considerations.
I spent the greater part of the day in once more walk-
ing through the settlement, and visiting its inhabitants. I
was accompanied by one or other of the missionaries in
my different walks. The Hottentots, at work at the
brick-kiln, gave me a last proof of their attachment to
old habits. While I was watching their setting it up^
a boor, who is much engaged in the same work, came
riding towards us, and began to take them to task :
" You must do so and so,'' said he ; " you know nothing
about setting up a kiln, your bricks will never get burnt,
&c.'' To every sentence, their answer was, '^ Ya, Myn-
heer! Ya, Mynheer !" Having finished his lecture, the
boor rode off in a gallop, but was no sooner out of hearing
than they began to make their remarks : " That man,"
said they, '' thinks himself very wise, because he is a
rich boor ; but we must do our own way, or the bricks
will never be burnt. His bricks are accustomed to his
way, but our bricks can only be burnt in our way."
They seem to have been in the right, for I have since
heard, that their kiln answered perfectly well, and their
bricks were remarkably good.
In the evening-meeting at the chapel, Brother Schmitt
once more commended me to the blessing and protection
of God, in fervent prayer, and the congregation again
expressed their best wishes for me.
9th. I rose, intending to set out early, to prevent any
stir, but in vain. The Hottentots came early to bid me
a last adieu, and to show their affection, by every token
of good-will. Young and old would give me their hands,
and then joined in singing a farewell-hymn. The mis-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 345
sionaries likewise assembled, as before, and I truly felt
the value of their love and intercession. Every one o£
ihem has shown the greatest kindness towards me, and
none with more unabated faithfulness and zeal than
Brother Schmitt and his wife, w^ith whom I have spent
most of my time at the Capp, JBut it is time to set bounds
to my expressions of gratitude towards them, which may
already appear to some of my readers tedious and im-
pertinent
About half past seven o'clock, I left Groenekloof, ac-
companied by Brother Schmitt as far as Brakfonteyn.
There I parted from that worthy man, who returned to
his zealous and indefatigable labours. May God's bless-
ing attend him yet for many years, with health and
strength, equal to his devotedness and desire to serve the
cause of his Saviour, either here, or in any other part of
South Africa. Brother Fritsch proceeded with me to
the Cape. We halted about an hour at Mr. Beester's
house at the Riet Valley, and though it began to rain
hard, rode on, and arrived, thoroughly soaked, with our
friends, at Mrs. Disandt's house, where we were receiv-
ed with their wonted kindness and cordiality.
CHAPTER XXIII.
Capetown. Visits to friends. Mr. and Mrs. Sheridan.
Arrangements on board the Zebra. Rev. Mr. Hesse^s
return to Europe regretted at the Cape. Duties of a
Lutheran minister. Pedestrian expedition round the
Lion^s head. Visit the eountry-residences of Messrs.
Horak^ Beek^ Ziegler and Dr. Liesching. Vieio of the
coast to the south. Final conversations with the Gover-
nor. Mr. Wilberforce Bird. Take leave, and go on
board the Zebra. Manner of receiving the Governor on
board.
October 10th. I waited on Captain Forbes at the
Government-house, and obtained a letter from him to
the first lieutenant of the Zebra, with which I went on
44
346 JOURNAL OF A
board, accompanied by Mr. Daniel Disandt, and Brother
Fritsch, to see the accommodations prepared for me. I
found them quite sufficient for my purpose. By the
Captain's kind attention to my wishes, 1 had a small
cabin to retire into, which held my bed, a chair, and
wash-stand ; besides being with the Captain during the
day. After my return, I went w^ith Mr. Hancke to pay
some visits, and spent as much time as I could with my
worthy friends, the Rev. Mr. Hesse and Mr. Poleman.
1 dined with the Governor, and there met Mr. and Mrs.
Sheridan. With the latter, I had much pleasant conver-
sation. The party then attended an instrumental con-
cert, given by Mr. Lemming. When we entered the
hall, ''^ God save the khifr'''^ was played, in honour of his
Excellency, as the King's representative, I admired
Mr. Lemming's performance on the violin; the band
consisted partly of dilettanti.
11th. Time was too short to attend to all the engage-
ments made, but we spent a very agreeable afternoon
with the Rev. Mr. Hesse, Mr. Poleman being of the
party.
12th. In the morning, Brother Fritsch returned to
Groenekloof. I felt a pecuHar pang at parting from the
last of my dear Cape Brethren. I then walked towards
the Government-house, to finally settle with Captain
Forbes about my going on board, but was met by the
Governor, who informed, me, that precisely at day-
break, on Wednesday morning, the Zebra would leave
the bay. This prolongation of time I wished to improve
as much as possible, in the enjoyment of the company
and conversation of friends.
I. 3th. In the forenoon, Mr. Edward Grant and Mr.
D. Disandt accompanied me on board the Zebra, where
we met Captain Forbes and several officers. I found
every attention paid to my convenience. Into my little
private cabin, sufficient light is admitted by a bull's eye.
I dined at the Rev. Mr. Hesse's, who entered upon the
object of his intended return to Europe. Mr. Poleman,
anxious to retain so valuable a character at the Cape,
made friendly remonstrances, which led our friend into
,a detail, to show his reasons for taking such a step.
ViaiT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 34/
Thej were sufficiently cogent. To me it was interest-
ing, on this occasion, to obtain some information con-
cerning the duties of a Lutheran minister, which are by
no means small, nor in their performance optional. Far
from wishing to withdraw from these obligations, Mr.
Hesse lamented, that the indifference of the congrega-
tion had long ago caused many of them, which were for-
merly considered as of the greatest importance, to be
abandoned, and that, if the minister were entirely to
relax in the performance of his duties, it would give to
most of them very little concern. He is now required once
a year to visit the families in their dwellings, in company
of an oudering or deacon. This is generally done about
Passion-week, but by many of his parishioners considered
an intrusion.
They have, however, built a spacious parsonage-house^
and a large, handsome church, and, in general, behave
towards their minister w^ith generous attention to his
comforts. Externally, therefore, our reverend friend
had no hopes of a better situation, but that was not his
object. The state of his health also, and the education
of his children seemed to require his return. My long
visit to this colony had made me so far participate in its
welfare, that I joined Mr. Poleman in his objections, as
both his congregation, the public, and aur Mission, will
experience great loss by Mr. Hesse's removal. During
my last stay at Capetown, I made a point of returning
home every evening to supper, that I might enjoy the
society of my worthy hostess, Mrs. Disandt, and her
family.
14th. A pedestrian expedition round the Lion's head
having been planned by Mr. Hancke, we were not deter-
red by the appearance of a rainy day, but having met at
Mr. Poleman's house, set out. The company consisted
of Messrs. Hancke, Poleman, Hesse, and myself. It was
their intention to reach Weilerskloof to breakfast, but
we could get no farther than Mr. Schmitt's^ on the north-
east ascent of the hill. There a heavy shower kept us
prisoners for some time, when we proceeded, in hopes
of better weather. The air was clear, and, as we walk-
ed up the klqof, between the Lion's head and Table-
348 JOURNAL OF A
Mountain, we had a good view of the town and bay.
The summits of the mountains were enveloped in clouds.
Amends, however, was made by the coolness of the air,
which made walking pleasant On reaching the top of
the kloof, an extensive prospect rewards the traveller,
and the range of rocks and precipices, forming the south-
west side of Table-Mountain, with the promontories of
Hout-bay, have a grand appearance. Turning to the
light, round the Lion's head, we arrived at a villa, be-
longing to Mr. Horak. This place, given to him by the
Earl of Caledon, has been greatly improved, by clothing
the steep ascent with plantations of Witteboom and other
trees. The gardens surround the circular mansion in
concentric circles. Behind the house, stone steps lead
to a picturesque group of rocks. Here, under the shade
of various trees, planted on every practicable shelf, and
between the masses of stone, a cool retreat is afforded
on a hot summer's day.
After some rest, and pleasant conversation with the
owner, we continued our walk, on a good road, to the
villa of Mr. Beck. Rocks of singular shape hover over
the dwelhng. The gardens, which in terraces slope
down towards the sea, are well stocked with a variety
of flowers. By a continuation of the road, dug into the
steep declivity of the mountain, we reached the villa of
Dr. Lieschlng and Mr. Ziegler to dinner.
This is a romantic spot, with a great variety of gar-
den-ground, laid out in terraces, down a very rugged
kloof, and containing a large collection of scarce plants
and flowering shrubs. At the bottom of these grounds,
the rocks form a grotto, in which is a cold bath. Walk-
ing alone on the heath, I found some singular groups
of large stones, with the Lion's head above them, in
profile, resembling a cupola, and to the south, an exten-
sive view of the coast beyond Camp-bay and Hout-bay,
of which I endeavoured to make a sketch. After din-
ner we returned to Capetown, in the doctor's barouche
and four.
Ii5th. I went to the Government-house, where I found
Captain Forbes, who assured me, that he meant to set
sail on the morning of the 16th. Having obtained ad-
VISI,T TO SOUTH AFRICA. 349
mission to the Governor, I had a final, and very satisfac-
tory conversation with his Excellency, on some points
of importance to the Mission, and thus closed the busi-
ness committed to me by the Directors of the Missionary
concerns of our Church, with thankfulness to God, to
whom alone I ascribe all my undeserved success.
I dined to-day with Mr. Wilberforce Bird, and met
Dr. Hussey and a captain of artillery. Mrs. Bird made
many inquiries concerning Mr. Wilberforce and his fami-
ly, and I was delighted to hear that excellent man made
the subject of conversation and just adniiration. At nine
o'clock, the company went to a ball at the Government-
house. I returned home to my lodgings at Mrs. Di-
sandt's.
16th. This being my last day at Capetown, I spent
the morning in taking leave of my friends, Mr. Hancke,
the Rev. Mr. Hesse, Mr. Poleman, and their families.
While I live, I shall retain the most grateful sense of their
kindness towards me.
Meeting Captain Forbes, he desired me to be ready
at four o'clock, as he then expected the Governor to
bring his son on board, and should immediately set sail.
After dinner, therefore, having taken a last farewell
of my kind hostess, Mrs. Disandt, her family, and son-in-
law, Mr. Edward Grant, whose presence has added much
to the pleasure and comfort I always enjoyed in that
house, I was accompanied to the pier by Mr. Hancke,
Mr. Daniel Disandt, and Mr. Bestaendig. There 1
bid adieu to the former, with sentiments of the sincerest
affection and gratitude for the essential and disinterested
services he has rendered me, during the whole of my
abode in the colony. The two latter gentlemen gave
me the pleasure of their company, till we reached the
ship. Stephen, a Hottentot from Groenekloof, by whom
I had yesterday received letters, was on the pier, and
saw me enter the boat, according to orders received.
When 1 arrived on board, 1 found every thing pre-
pared to receive the Governor. The ship was dressed
out with an awning and flags, and the table in the cabin
covered with a profusion of viands. The first lieu-
tenant being confined by a hurt, received some days ago.
350 JOURNAL OF A
the second lieutenant had the command. Captain Forbes'
was on shore, and it was so settled, that if his gig re-
turned without him, then the Governor would not come
on board that afternoon. Bj some mistake the gig was
reported to be coming off empty, and the lieutenant or-
dered the flags and awnings to be taken down. This
was instantly done, when the gig was seen swiftly ap-
proaching the ship, with the Governor, his son, Miss
Somerset, and the Captain in it. There was now no
time, either for replacing the flags, or for firing a salute,
before they were all on board. His Excellency seemed
pleased with the ship, and the arrangements made, and
sat down to the cold collation. When they returned to
shore, a salute of seventeen guns was fired, a company
of artillery onboard performing that service. During
the short conversation I had with his Excellency, he once
more assured me of his favourable disposition towards
the Mission; and added, that he still hoped that I should
land in England before the passengers in the Brilliant.
His prediction proved true.
The wind having turned right against us, and blowing
fresh, the Captain resolved not to work against it so late
in the evening, and returned with the Governor. I
would not go again on shore, but spent the evening in
writing.
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 351
CHAPTER XXIV.
Departure from Table-bay. View of the coast and moun^
tains. Reflections. Contents of the Zebra. General Bo^
naparte^s part of the cargo. Officers. Convenience of a
private cabin. Letter to the Rev. Mr. Hesse^ respecting
the Church of the United Brethren. First appearance of
St. Helena. Its rocky coasts. Visited by Captain Wallis
of the Podargus sloop. Landing. James-town described.
Sir Thomas Reade. Invitation to Plantation-house.
Ladder-hill. High-knole. Volcanic appearances. Beau-
ty of the interior. Sir Hudson Lowe^ Governor of St.
Helena. Mr. Brook. Morning-walk through the Go-
vernor'^s grounds.
October 17th. About eight o'clock, Captain Forbes
came on board with Mr. Somerset, Captain Cloete, and
Major Blake. The two officers soon returned to shore.
Every thing being prepared, we immediately set sail, and
beat out of the harbour, the wind being right against us.
The sky looked wild.
1 stood on deck, engaged with various contemplations,
but having so often, in the course of this narrative, ex-
pressed my feelings, they may be guessed at without the
necessity of a tedious recapitulation. Though the hea-
vens were beclouded, the air w^as clear, and the surround-
ing objects presented themselves distinctly to view ;
Capetown, with its immense back-ground of mountains,
or rather huge cliffs, shelving off towards the south; and
to the east, the beautiful outline of mountains from the
Hangeklip to the Piquetberg, enclosing the Tigerberg,
Kuhberg, Blauberg, and Groenekloof hills. On the lat-
ter, my spirit seemed to hover with a mixture of pleasure
and pain, and my prayers arose for a blessing on all,
whom I have there left behind. My spirit then fled over
the mountains of Hottentot's Holland into the sacred
groves of Gnadenthal, and I felt a pang on reflecting,
that, by being kept in constant suspense during the last
two months, 1 have been prevented paying another visit
to those who dwell under their shade.
352 JOURNAL OF A
As we were a long time working out of the bay, I quietly
enjoyed these reveries for some hours, till the more rest-
less waves ofthe open sea began to affect me^ and feeling
myself quite overpowered by a kind of giddiness, I was
glad to reach ray private cabin, and take to my bed, out
of which, after a restless night, I could hardly crawl into
**the great cabin on the
1 8th, when I felt only half alive. Meanwhile the wind
had turned in our favour, and we had made one hundred
and twentj^-six miles by twelve o'clock, going at the rate
of nine and ten knots an hour. I began already to com-
fort myself with some faint hopes of our being not much
behind the Brilliant, when she reached England.
19th. I had spent a miserable night; the breeze fresh-
ened so much, that the rolling of the ship became very
troublesome. A soldier, who had obtained a free passage?
as Captain's servant, was particularly anxious to render
me every assistance; and, during the whole voyage,
considered himself as attached to me. He attended me
every morning, and seemed even to watch my wishes, that
I might never want any thing. His name was John
M'Klosky. By twelve o'clock, we had made two hun-
dred and twenty miles. Thankfulness for such swift pro-
gress, made me quite satisfied with all the tumbling and
railing we had to endure. The wind abated a little, but
remained fair.
20th. The articles of war were read, and a general
muster and inspection of the crew took place, as is usual
on Sundays.
21st. Being restored to a tolerable state of health and
spirits, I began to notice the contents of our ship, and
the heterogeneous nature ofthe objects brought together.
General Bonaparte's property filled great part of the
deck, and as it has been insinuated that he was left in
a starving condition, it may not be uninteresting to know,
w^hat the Zebra alone added to his store, of which I took
some account, a hundred bags of corn and oats, twelve
bales of hay, ten casks of wine, six barrels of butter, and
forty or fifty sheep, several of which died on the passage*
Every man of war, sailing from the Cape, was charged
with some articles, either of provision or manufacture,
for this celebrated captive. But how are the mighty
r
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 353
fallen ! Fallen indeed, in every sense, even in mind, so as
not to be able to restrain a species of fretfulness, which
leads him to encourage complaints, founded on falsehood.
Bonaparte's goods were all marked with a Bp, by his
own direction. Among other live stock on board, was
a young jackal. This savage cub, a moment after he
was brought on board, seeing an unfortunate cock walk-
ing on deck, seized it by the neck, and sprang w^ith it
overboard, supposing the green ocean to be a field. The
boat being out, both were soon taken up, and the jackal
saved.
22d. The wind continued strong and fair, and all were
thankful for the progress we made.
I shall ever remember with gratitude, the civility and
kind attention of Captain Forbes and the officers of the
Zebra. Many of them had seen much service, and fought
nobly in their king and country's cause. Some had
travelled to almost every part of the known world, and I
could not fail to derive much entertainment and infor-
mation from their occasional relations of remarkable
events, which were always unaffi^cted and unassuming.
A passenger, Captain Brabyn of the infantry, who had
spent sixteen years in New South Wales, and was obliged
to visit England, to settle some family affairs, gave me
much interesting information both of that singular coun-
try, and of my friend the Rev. Mr. Marsden. Thus I
never felt time hang heavy on my bands. If I was not
disposed to write or read, I always found such society
and conversation on deck, as afforded me great grati-
fication.
My little cabin was my sanctuary, and the hurry and
noise in the gun-room seldom, if ever, disturbed me in
my meditations. Whatever is not within my reach or
control, in things not quite consistent with religious
propriety, I leave to Him, who judgeth righteously, not
being answerable for what is not committed to me, or in
my power to alter in the conduct of others. To reprove,
in a spirit of Christian meekness and true charity, being
more disposed to excuse and make allowances, than to
find fault and judge severely, is certainly the duty of a
true Christian, but the manner of doing it, with any
45
354 JOURNAL OF A
hopes of success, is not the gift of every one who feels
the obligation. But there was not an officer on board
who would not take in good part, any remark made
on subjects, on which we differed in sentiment or ex-
pression.
A small shelf had been put up in my cabin, which con-
tained a few books. Every morning, when I awoke, the
bull's eye giving me sufficient Hght, I read the Scripture-
texts appointed for every day in our Church, with the two
chapters from which they were taken, adding sometimes
larger portions of the Scriptures, as I was led on by the
importance of the subjects, and the great delight and
comfort 1 enjoyed in this practice. Never did the Bible
appear to me so precious a treasure, when read with
prayer, and under the enlightening influence of the Spirit
of God, by whose divine assistance, I was frequently led
into a clearer understanding of many of the great truths
contained in it, than I had ever before possessed. To
enter largely upon the subject, would be here out of
place, but I trust some abiding impressions have been
made upon my soul, during my soUtary devotions in that
narrow cell.
Every day, two officers were invited by the Captain
to dinner, and, according to the usual practice in a man
of war, the Captain dined with the officers on Sundays,
when Mr. Somerset and 1 were likewise invited.
25th. The wind becoming more moderate, the ship's
motion permitted me to spend my time quietly in the
cabin, preparing letters to send from St. Helena to the
Cape. I began likewise to make a circumstantial report
of all my proceedings at the Cape, for the Directors of
our Missions.
26th. 1 wrote to my highly valued friend, the Rev.
Mr. Hesse, at Capetown, having been led into a reca-
pitulation of many subjects, which occurred in conversa-
tion between us at his house. Part of my letter related
to the Church to which I belong. Concessions are the
best defence, where we are, or have formerly been, to
blame, in expressions or proceedings founded on mista-
ken notions. Such concessions have been repeatedly
iriade, but in general to Uttle purpose; and we must be
TISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 355
satisfied to hear the old, wretched, and contradictory ac-
cusations, repeated in '' Accounts of all Religions, En-
cyclopedias, Notes on Church History," and other com-
pilations. Be it so, since it cannot be otherwise ex-
pected; let us live them down, since we have not been
able to write them down. To some, however, who wil-
fully continue to deal in that species of slander against
the Brethren, or other religious communities, the answer
of a friend of mine, a nobleman in Saxony, to his brethren,
the States of Upper Lusatia, assembled at the Diet at
Bautzen, may be given, consistently with truth. With a
view to irritate his feehngs, or, as the vulgar phrase is,
to quiz him, they pretended to believe all the infamous
stories, related by certain authors concerning the practi-
ces of the Brethren at Herrnhut, representing them as a
very profligate and licentious sect; and challenged him
to deny them. '^ Pray, gentlemen," he replied, " do not
assert, that you believe these things, for I know you all
so well, that if you really did believe, that all manner of
licentiousness might be practised at Herrnhut with im^
punity, there is not one of you, who would not long ago
have requested to be received as a member of such a
community."
27th. Evening-prayers were read in the cabin before
dinner. While we were dining with the officers in the
gun-room, the master came down with the good news,
that 8t. Helena was in sight. The information was re-
ceived with great coolness by the old mariners, and as
we could not anchor there after sunset, we remained un-
der an easy sail all night, standing offhand on.
28th. I was early on deck, expecting to find a huge
peak rising out of the sea, as St. Helena is often repre-
sented. I was surprised, therefore, to see a long, high,
and, from that distance, smooth-looking land, exhibiting
nothing striking or picturesque; but, as we approached,
more of its peculiar features were visible, and its ap-
pearance became interesting. No coast I have ever
seen looks more desolate; and one may easily conceive
the anguish of the ladies wlio accompanied Bonaparte
to have been as great as described, when they beheld
the black dismal precipices, without a blade of grass or
356 JOURNAL OF A
bush upon them, among which they were perhaps to spend
the remainder of their Hves. Several kloofs (to keep
up the old favourite appellation) divide the masses of
ragged rocks. They appear filled with a black mould,
the crumbling fragments of decomposed volcanic sub-
stances.
We soon discovered the Podargus sloop of war,
cruizing off the island, andj by signal, sailed towards
her. Captain Wallis, her commander, came off in his
boat, and paid a long visit to Captain Forbes.
On a nearer approach, several curious peaks, rocks of
fanciful shape, and caverns near the sea, attracted my
attention. The general colour of the rocks is dark-gray,
with fissures and veins of a brown-yellow tint. Batte-
ries are placed on several eminences, forming a line of
defence all round the accessible part of the island. As
we sailed round the point, James-town burst upon our
view, with a neat church, clean-looking houses, and a row
of trees near the beach. Some groves of cocoa and
other trees adorn the gardens.
When we had come to an anchor, the officer of the
guard came on board, with whom Mr. Somerset and
Captain Forbes went on shore, to make arrangements.
I preferred spending the day on board, wishing to write
letters, and complete my journal. On their return, how-
ever. Captain Forbes, who had procured permission for
me to land, reported, that having seen the Governor,
Sir Hudson Lowe, he had invited him to dinner at Plan-
tation-house, his country-residence, and that I might,
meanwhile, find amusement of various kinds on shore.
I was thus persuaded to accompany him.
The weather was so mild, that there was hardly any
surf, which is sometimes very troublesome, even at the
jetty. The landing-place lies under vast and almost
f)erpendicular rocks. About three hundred yards to the
eft, an abutment of the rock forms an arch, like that of a
flying buttress. To the right, the road passes over a
drawbridge, along the beach, to a battery of heavy guns,
commanding the entrance of the harbour. To the left,
storehouses and offices range behind an avenue of trees,
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 357
the stems of which are remarkably crooked and ill-
grown.
About the middle of this range of buildings, a gate ad-
mits the traveller into the town, w^ithout any examina-
tion, but he is required immediately to repair to the
town-major's office, to sign his name, and declare his
business. Our first visit was to Captain Stansfield, the
senior naval officer, acting as commodore, in absence of
the admiral. Sir Pultney Malcolm.
I was received with great politeness by Captain Stans-
field, and, as Sir Pultney had offered Captain Forbes a
bed at his house, 1 was likewise provided with accommo-
dations, as his companion. During his absence, I de-
termined to spend the afternoon in examining the stones
on the hills surrounding the town, being pretty sure, that
I should find enough to amuse me for some hours, when
the arrival of Sir Thomas Reade, the Adjutant-general,
delivered me from the burden of my contrivances. When
he heard the plan I had formed, he protested, that I
should not quit my company, but accompany the captain
and Mr. Somerset to Plantation-house to dinner. With
the most obliging opposition to all my remonstrances, he
fairly compelled me to join the cavalcade, and we set out
with the Governor's adjutant, Lieutenant Pritchard, all
well mounted.
The road up Ladder-hill is a steep zigzag, and were
there not a parapet of about three feet in height skirting
it towards the declivity, the view downwards would be
frightful. At the top of the hill, a battery commands
both the road, and the gate leading to it from the plain
above. The mass of rocks, and the innumerable frag-
ments lying on the hill, bear evident marks of their
having once been in a state of fusion. The traces of
that dreadful eruption, by which this singular island was
lifted up above the surface of the ocean, appear in all
directions. To the right, on the waste above, we were
made particularly attentive to a number of gullies, in
parallel lines, resembling torrents of burning lava. An
attempt has been made to plant a hedge of Indian fig, on
each side of the road, but it docs not seem to thrive well.
Leaving High-knole, a steep conical hill, to the left.
358 JOURNAL OF A
with a fort and guard on the summit, the whole face of
the country changes from a wilderness to a garden. The
declivities of the hills are covered with short grass of the
most lively green, and their summits with bushes and
trees. On a plain below, the camp of the 66th regiment
presented itself. It is called Francis-plain camp, and, as
the military was just then on parade, the sound of mar-
tial music greeted our ears, as we rode along the hill..
Plantation-house lies to the right, and is approached be-
tween two handsome lodges, with a guard-house, signal-
house, and flags. The road leads through a grove to
the main entrance. The house is a spacious building,
facing an opening towards the sea, and bounded by low
hills, planted with a variety of trees and bushes. An
extensive lawn and garden slope down the gentle de-
clivity.
On entering the drawing-room, we met a large compa-
ny, chiefly officers of different regiments, now stationed
in the island, waiting for the Governor. I confess I felt
rather uncomfortable, not seeing Sir Thomas Reade
arrive, to account for the appearance of a stranger
among these miHtary men in full dress. But w^hen Sir
Hudson entered the apartment, and Captain Forbes in-
troduced me to him, his Excellency made me truly wel-
come, assuring me, that he should have felt much hurt, if
I had not accompanied my friends. To my astonishment,
I found here a gentleman, with whom 1 had contracted
some acquaintance in England, Mr. Brook, Secretary to
the colony.
Sir Thomas Reade having joined us, we sat down to
dinner, twenty-one in number. The conversation was
free, and conducted throughout with the most correct
attention to propriety. Sir Hudson had the kindness to
place me next to the Secretary, that we might renew our
acquaintance. Lady Lowe had been confined about a
month ago, and did not attend to-day. About nine
o'clock the party broke up, and the moon shining bright,
all the officers returned, either on foot or on horseback,
to their stations in different parts of the island. Sir Hud-
son desired us to make his house our home.
29th. I awoke at daybreak, and feeling no inclination
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 359
to waste my time in sleep, in a place so remarkable in
itself, and rendered much more so by recent events, I
instantly quitted my bed, and left the house before sun-
rise, to form acquaintance with as much of the surround-
ing country as the time before breakfast would permit.
I first went to the pleasure-grounds. They are laid
out in terraces, descending towards a valley, in which
some cottages are inhabited by Chinese gardeners and
labourers. A flower-garden, in the Dutch style, is pre-
paring for Lady Lowe, who delights in curious plants.
It is sheltered from the east wind, by a rock of a white
gritty substance. My attention was for some time di-
rected to an assemblage of stones, brought together for
building. They were varieties of scoriae, some contain-
ing crystals of shoerl and olivin, and, as 1 apprehend,
magnetic iron, quite similar in appearance to many I
have seen from the neighbourhood of iEtna and Vesu*
vius. Some of the cavities were filled wnth a bright yel-
low coating, but I found no zeolith in any of them.
Pursuing my walk, under beautiful groves of trees of
various descriptions, I arrived at the hill, which is cover-
ed with a young plantation of firs and other evergreens.
From the upper walk observing a black rock at some
distance, I made towards it, and found it to consist of
amorphous basaltes. While I was employed, without
proper tools, in knocking off some specimens, the bark-
ing of a dog at the door of a neighbouring house,
brought out the proprietor, with whom I had some con*^
versation.
Turning down a footpath to the bottom of the rock, I
found a quarry, and in it a vein of a substance by the
Germans called Steinmark, (stone-marrow,) but of so
brittle a nature, that I could get but very small speci-
mens. Two hours passed swiftly and pleasantly away,
and when I returned to the house, I found the Governor
in his library, and we soon met to breakfast. On Captain
Forbes requesting, that his Excellency would furnish us
with the means of visiting Longwood, he declared his
intention of accompanying us thither himself, and, if pos-
sible, obtaining for us a sight of General Bonaparte.
360 JOURNAL OF A
CHAPTER XXV.
The Governors gardens described. Excursion in company
of his Excellency, by Sandy-bay^ to Lons^wood, High
Peak. Diana^s Peak. The DeviVs Ptmch-bowL Ac-
count of Longwood. General Bonaparte confined to his
room by illness. Bertrand. Monthollon. Lieutenant
Pritchard. Description of Sandy-bay and other parts of
the island. Furze. Black-berries. Wild goats. Houses
of English settlers. The Friar Rock and valley. Obser-
vatio)is on General Bonaparte^ s conduct. Departure from
St. Helena.
When Captain Wallis of the Podargus came on board
the Zebra, and inquiry was made about General Bona-
parte, the captain seemed very unwilling to allow, that
he was any longer an object of curiosity at St. Helena,
though in England we were all so eager to hear and
speak about him. But on landing we found, that his
words and actions formed a considerable part of the con-
versation of all classes. Captain Wallis was first lieute-
nant to Captain Wright, whose history is well known ;
and though Bonaparte denies knowing any thing about
the torture he is said to have suffered before his death,
yet his great wrath at the appointment of Captain Wallis
to this station, which, he says, w^as purposely done to
mortify him, shows no very clear conscience. In Captain
Wallis he cannot expect to have a sincere friend, unless
he conceives him to be a Christian of such consummate
piety, that he can forgive and forget all the cruel and
insulting treatment which he himself experienced, when
taken prisoner with Captain Wright.
Lord Charles Somerset had expressed his wish to
Sir Hudson Lowe, that, if it were possible, his son might
have, if not an interview with, yet an opportunity of
seeing General Bonaparte. But unfortunately for us, he
was just now not only highly displeased with the Gover-
nor and the English in general, on account of some ne-
cessary restrictions put upon him, but truly ill with a
swelling of the gums, ^d a breaking out in the lower
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 361
art of his face, which had confined him to his room for
several dajs.
Before we set out, Sir Hudson proposed a walk
through his own grounds, part of which I had previously
seen. His Excellency pointed out many foreign trees,
growing here in great perfection, among which, some
have not yet been described by botanists. The Chinese
yew; the cofFee-tree; cinnamon and clove-bushes; the
Norfolk-island-pine, a most beautiful species, growing in
its native soil to the enormous height of from three hun-
dred and fifty to three hundred and eighty feet ; the
gum-tree ; cabbage-tree ; dog-tree, and goblekeer, bear-
ing a small sky-blue flower, and others, deserve particu^
lar attention. Some oaks of vast magnitude and spread,
form a delightful bower, under which, in that hot climate,
one may enjoy the comfort of a shady retreat, inhaling an
atmosphere, perfumed by the fragrance of a profusion
of the sweetest plants and flowers. We noticed a pecu-
liar kind of grass, called mat-grass, from its spreading
most luxuriantly over the ground, in such thickness, that
it forms a cover resembling thick matting, with long ten-
drils like quick-grass. The Governor ordered a large
sod, covered with it, to be put into a tub and sent on
board, which I brought to England,
The kitchen-gardens are large and well-watered by
springs from the adjoining hills. The water is conveyed
in narrow troughs, cut in a red lava, easily wrought, by
being in a state of half-decomposition. By this means,
the water is saved from being lost in the sand, or loose
earth, as it passes along. Where this method is practi-
cable, it should be adopted in South Africa, and in other
places, for the purpose of irrigation. I am confident,
that such a measure would greatly increase the quantity
o( produce in many South African farms-
We now set out for Longwood : the Governor,
Colonel Sir Thomas Reade, Lieutenant Pritchard, Cap-
tain Forbes, Mr. Somerset, and I, with a dragoon and
groom. Sir Hudson proposed first to ride to Sandy-bay,
one of the most romantic spots in the island. The views
on all sides are singularly beautiful. Many fertile and
well-wooded hills present themselves to the right, one
4G
362 JOURNAL OF A
of which is called High Peak. Diana's Peak lies mor^*
to the left, and is considered the highest point in the
whole island. After crossing several hills and dales, by
a zigzag road, their steepness never admitting of a strait
line, we reached the ridge, overlooking the bay. The
view of the valley is beyond description grand. Hills
and rocks of most singular forms surround a deep hol-
low, within which rises a woody hill with two peaks,
one ascending considerably above the other. Between
them, surrounded by gardens and shrubberies, lies the
elegant villa of Mr. Doveton. He was born in this
island, and is one of the members of council. Behind
the house, seen, from the place where we stood, between
the two peaks, rises a huge rock, like a sugar-loaf, called
Lot. In the back-ground, is a range of hills, truly vol-
canic in their appearance, intersected by numerous glens
and gullies, of almost every colour, but chiefly violet,
with tinges of yellow, red, dark-brown, and a greenish*
gray ; the summit of the range is crowned with peaks
of brown and black rocks, rising in succession. On its
most elevated part, a rock, considerably higher than the
rest, and leaning towards the right, has the odd name of
Lot's wife ; the lower row of rocks, of different shapes
and sizes, are called Lot's children. The whole land-
scape is the most strange combination of objects imagina-
ble, and Sir Hudson, perceiving that I wished to make
3. sketch of it, proposed that I should make it the business
of to-morrow, as our time to-day was too short.
Leaving therefore this enchanting spot, we turned to-
wards Longwood, which, after a ride of a few miles,
presents itself over a deep, barren glen, called the
^' Devil's Punch-bowl." General Bonaparte's premises
appear, at first sight, to be placed near its rim. After
rounding the edge of the Punch-bowl, we reached the
outer gate and guard-house. Sir Hudson pointed out
tons the situation of Longwood, as pecuHarly calcula-
ted to prevent unobserved escape. The grounds, which
occupy a space of about twelve miles in circumference,
lie upon a kind of inland peninsula, the only practicable
access to which, is between the Devil's Punch-bowl, and
a deep glen to the right, descending towards the sea,
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 363
or between the flag-staff hill, and the other end of the
Punch-bowl. Both these roads are sufficiently defend-
ed by troops. As far as the guard-house, and within the
twelve miles. General Bonaparte may ride, and amuse
himself as he pleases ; but if he wishes to exceed those
limits, an officer must accompany him. He finds this ex-
tremely unpleasant, and requested the officer to dress
like a common gentleman, which, however, being on du-
ty, the latter was obliged to refuse.
After entering the gate, we rode up to another en*'
closure, where Sir Hudson desired us to wait, till he had
obtained information respecting the General's actual
situation. The interior of the premises is well stocked
w^ith ornamental and other trees, forming a pleasant
shrubbery, the rest of the domain being principally
covered with gum trees standing singly. In a short
time, Sir Hudson returned from the house, with an ac-
count, that General Bonaparte was very ill with a swell*
ed face and gums, and could not leave his room. This
answer we had expected, and contented ourselves with
riding about the park, if I may so call it, sind obtaining
a good idea of the situation of the dwelling of this re-
markable man. He and his friends complain of it, but I
can only declare, that in the whole island of St. Helena
I have not seen a spot, more convenient and airy, and
where there is so much opportunity for taking a ride in
a carriage or on horseback, without interruption. The
park is even and grassy, and General Bonaparte fre-
quently rides out in a cabriolet and six, generally in full
gallop. In the shrubbery, near the house, stands a large
marquee, in which he commonly breakfasts, and spends a
good deal of time.
Bertrand has a separate house, a little lower down the
declivity, at a small distance from his master's. We saw
him and Monthollon, with their ladies, walking in the
park. The mansion itself is rather an assemblage of
buildings, than one whole house. The dining-room, with
its viranda, is the principal feature, and has three large
windows. Connected with it, are General Bonaparte's
own apartments, the principal one turning its gable-end
towards the entrance. Behind that, if I am correct, fol-
364 JOURNAL OF A
low those of the Captain on guard, Las Casas, Gourgeon^
and Monthollon. The latter has four windows. They
are all one story high, whitened, with gray roofs.
To the north-east, is a remarkable rock, from its shape
called the Barn, rising perpendicularly from the sea to a
great height, black, rugged, and without any trees. Far-
ther inland, lies a peaked hill, called the Flag-staflf.
Towards the Barn descends a narrow vale, covered Avith
gravel of decomposed volcanic matter, in some parts so
red, that it furnishes the imagination with the idea of a
burning torrent. Here and there are patches of blue,
yellow, and violet, increasing the deception. We had no
time to fatigue our horses by riding into it ; and on our
return to the guard-house. Sir Hudson very obligingly
directed his adjutant. Lieutenant Pritchard, to attend me
to any place, from which I might wish to make a sketch
of the house and premises. He then returned home.
Captain Forbes and Sir Thomas Reade rode to James-
town, and Mr. Somerset favoured me with his company.
We Vv^ent round the north-east end of the Punch-bowl,
through the camp of the 53d regiment, but finding no
good situation for a view, turned back towards the oppo-
site height. Not far from the gate, I dismounted, and
got a good general view of the house, or houses.
When we arrived at plantation-house, Lady Lowe had
taken an airing in a close carriage, and was in the draw-
ing-room, where we were introduced to her. Her Lady-
ship likewise attended to-day at the head of her table.
Some military and other gentlemen joined us at dinner.
My neighbour was Colonel Lister, w^ho having been in
the interior of South Africa, as commander of a corps of
Hottentots, had visited Gnadenthal, and was interested
in obtaining an account of the present state of the Mis-
sion. The afternoon could not be but pleasantly spent
in the company of men so well informed and intelligent.
After they w^ere gone, I retired into my own room, and
finished my memorandums.
30th. I rose early, and began my morning's walk by a
scramble up the hill to the right, to obtain a general view
of the house and premises ; then turning through the
gates, went down the hill on the road to Long wood.
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 3G5
High-knole, with its fort, supported by steep, black, rug-
ged rocks, only wants trees to make it appear a very
picturesque object. Francis-plain camp lies in a very
solitary situation. But I have seldom listened with more
pleasure to military music, than this morning, though
performed only by some fifes, and a smaller and larger
drum. The composition, as well as the performance,
were excellent. 1 returned through the gates, and, as-
cending by the zigzag walks behind the house, to the
churchyard adjoining the chapel of ease, a good view
of a range of hills from the Governor's grounds to the
Barn rock, rewarded my labours.
At breakfast. Sir Hudson proposed, that Mr. Somerset
should make another attempt at Longwood, by the good
offices of Dr. O'Meara, to see General Bonaparte. I
set out in company of Lieutenant Pritchard, for Sandy-
bay, taking a different route from that of yesterday.
We made halt at a guard-house and flag-staff, and having
given our horses in charge of a lad, got over a wall, and
obtained a fine view of the valley, but not equal to that
from the other side, towards which, therefore, we bent
our course. Here I attempted to take a very accurate
view of this singular spot.
From hence we made a circuit towards the western
coast of the island, passing along a sharp ridge, with
beautiful glens on each side, in which several gentlemen's
houses and plantations are well contrasted with the rug-
ged masses of rock in their neighbourhood, and the wild
waste around them. Yet even this waste was glorious-
ly decorated with bushes of most luxuriant growth,
chiefly of furze, now in full bloom, and, both in the size
and colour of its flowers, incomparably superior to that
of Europe. Blackberry-bushes, likewise, which were
first introduced as a rarity in a garden, have now become
so plentiful, that they are considered as the worst of
weeds, intruding themselves every where into gardens
and plantations. The summits of some of the hills are
crowned with groves of gum and cabbage-trees, but the
havock made of the wood, with which this island was
formerly clothed, has been such, that, comparatively, but
little of it is left. Formerly every passing ship sent men
366 JOURNAL OF A
on shore to cut as much as they wanted. Of course rto carfe^
was taken to prevent waste. The subsequent introduce
tion of goats, which ran wild, and multiplied very fast,
was most ruinous to the growth of young plants and
sprouts. These creatures proved at last so great a nui-
sance, that they were hunted, and almost destroyed.
There are no quadrupeds here, which may be called abo-
rigines. Rats and mice have been brought hither by
ships. Of other creatures, except birds and reptiles, we
have no account. Scorpions and centipedes are said to
have always abounded.
The houses of the English settlers in St. Helena, are
very different in their appearance from those of the
Dutch at the Cape- They are neat and cleanly, with
lawns and plantations; and prove, that their possessors,
whether richer or poorer, are directed by some good
taste, and do not always first ask, whether what they
build or plant will bring in money, or afford too much
pleasure or convenience to a neighbour, without gain or
reward to themselves.
The views on the western shore are equally inte-
resting, though not so wild. Roseberry hill, the villa
of Colonel Smith, is charmingly situated. A singular
rock, from its shape called the Friar, and giving name
to a valley, presents itself between two huge masses of
stone, about the north-west corner of the island. We
had no time to approach nearer. The heat was to-day
greater than we had experienced it for a long time*^
The Governor could not have given me a more agree-
able companion than Lieutenant Pritchard, who made it
his study to render my ride agreeable and instructive.
After our return, I found his Excellency in the hbrary,
busily engaged in preparing despatches to go by the
Zebra. My view of the house and surrounding scenery
happening to meet with Lady Lowe's approbation, I
finished my sketch for her. Captain Forbes had re-
turned from James-town, and Dr. O'Meara having sent
word, that General Bonaparte was too ill to appear
abroad, Mr. Somerset was disappointed. Mr. Brook,
the Secretary, paid a short visit. We sat down to din-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA- 367
lier without any additional guests, and the afternoon was
spent in lively conversation.
Every account we heard of the disposition and conduct
of General Bonaparte in this island, showed but little of
that greatness of character, which he would affect, and
his admirers represent as inherent in him. That which
belongs to the natural construction of a man's mind will
be discovered in every situation of hfe. Not only in
prosperity, but in adversity, it will cleave to him, and
generally influence his conduct. But in a day of ease
and victory, it is much easier to support a pretence, and
wear a mask, than in a state of affliction. While Gene-
ral Bonaparte was dictating laws to every nation but
England, and crowned heads were bowing before him,
he could assume a character superior to his own, and af^
feet, in every thing, to rise higher than other men. It
would be unjust to deny him the merit of having ex-
hibited a degree of comprehension and skill in military
affairs, which has perhaps seldom, if ever, been equalled
among ancient or modern warriors. In civil arrange-
ments, also, who will deny, that his plans were vast, and
that he had the wisdom to search out and employ the
best agents for the accomplishment of his designs ! Had
these properties of his mind been accompanied and di-
rected by what constitutes true greatness, by generosity,
goodness of heart, a conscientious principle, and reli-
gious attention to justice and truth in his dealings, he
would indeed have deserved all the praise bestowed
upon him, either by those who were dazzled by his
meteoric splendour, or by men who, in our own country,
set him up, more, I trust, to please their party, than to
sound the trumpet, and further the designs of the most
determined and illiberal enemy England ever had. But
now we see, that in adversity, that species of greatness
which he possessed will not support him. It cannot in-
deed be supposed, that he should feel happy in his pre-
sent situation, and I could not visit his present domain,
without feeling pity for a man, fallen so low, and who,
had his senses not forsaken him in that (to him) most
evil hour, might yet, after all his defeats, by honestly
yielding to necessity, ^nd signing the proposed treaty of
368 JOUKNAL OF A
Chauraont, have been left in possession of more power
and military glory, than any other Potentate in Eu-
rope. But the old adage, ^^ Quern Deus vult perdere,
prius dementat," was never more completely verified^
than in the case of this singular man. He was, no doubts
an instrument in the hands of a just God, to chastise the
nations for their apostacy, and laid aside, when his work
M^as done. If any thing tends to lessen or destroy that
compassion, which one must feel even for the greatest de-
linquent, under the lash of well-merited punishment, it is
that petulance and irritability, which he shows in his
present situation, and which a mind truly great would
know how to suppress.
Ever grumbling, finding fault with every person and
every thing about him, dissatisfied with his food, peevish-
ly complaining of neglect, when circumstances alone
perhaps produced some transient disappointment, and, if
not the author, yet the promoter of the most unjust ac-
cusations against Sir Hudson Lowe, the Governor, who,
though he knows and does his duty to his Sovereign, in
guarding the charge committed to him, has, in more than
one instance, spared and befriended his prisoner ! Can
such conduct proceed from what is called greatness of
mind ! I will quote one instance of the effect of his dis-
satisfaction about things of minor importance, which
came to my knowledge from the best authority. A
butcher at James-town, who used to deliver meat for
his table, being at length wearied out with continual
repetition of complaints, though he furnished the best
meat he could procure, directed the following laconic
epistle to the Governor: "Sir Hudson! May it please
your Excellency, this same General Bonaparte is hard
to please. I begs to be excused sarving him any long-
er with meat."
As he hates Sir Hudson Lowe, the latter does not un-
necessarily trouble him with his presence, but delivers
all notices to him by Sir Thomas Reade, whose polished
manners, good-humoured disposition, and knowledge of
the Italian language, which General Bonaparte is said
to prefer to French in conversation, makes him a plea-
sant messenger. Sir Thomas has therefore had more
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 369
opportunities of becoming acquainted with him, in the
various affections of his mind, than most Englishmen
with whom he has conversed.
A proof of great meanness is this, that he will not
give credit to the English for any great warlike action.
He says, that by all the rules of war, he ought to
have gained the battle of Waterloo, and that the Duke
of Wellington ought, if he had been a good General,
to have retreated, and not made his stand where he
did. Yet at other times, feeling peculiarly indignant
at the Prussians, he, of course, will not allow them
to have had any share in the result of that action,
but describes his defeat to the firmness of the English
infantry alone, by which all his plans were disconcerted.
It is not my intention to add to the numberless ac-
counts given of this celebrated captive, who thinks that he
has friends and defenders enough among the EngHsh
nation. Not having seen and spoken with him myself, I
can only repeat what has been said by others, and as to
those communications, w^hich are made in the course of
friendly and unguarded conversation, I am of opinion,
that, without special permission, common civility requires,
that they should not be published, lest, by any uninten-
tional misstatement, uneasiness might be created in the
minds of men, whose kindness and liberality deserve to
be rewarded with the most scrupulous attention to their
feelings.
General Bonaparte once observed to a gentleman, at
whose house he seemed to bear his lot with considerable
composure, that so many extraordinary things had hap-
pened to him in his life, which had happened to no other
man, that he should not be surprised if, some time hence,
the English Government were to recall him.
47
370 JOURNAL OF A
CHAPTER XXVL
Preparations to leave St. Helena, Rumours of a war be-
tween England and Jilgiers. Exercises at great guns and
small arms. Appearance of Ascension island. Singular
colouring of its rocks and hills. Captain Rich of the
Racoon sloop of war. Landing. Great mountain. VoU
canic scoriae and cinders. Scanty supply of water. Lava.
Obsidien. Spotted crabs. Cockscomb oysters. Broken
shells. Beautiful moonlight view. Water-spout. Re-
Viarks on reading the history of Greece and Rome.
Strange noises on board. Character of my late Father.
Conversations with Captain Forbes. Stormy weather.
Accuracy of reckoning by the chronometer. Enter the
Bvitish Channel. Arrival at Spithead.
October 31. Captain Forbes, on his return from town,
yesterday, informed us, that he should sail in the fore-
noon, and we prepared to leave this hospitable mansion,
which, but for the strong drawing felt towards home, I
should have done with the most sensible regret. Deter-
mined, however, to lose no time, I was ready for my
IPorning's walk before sunrise, and having found a good
road to the top of the hill above the cave, I once more
treated myself with a general view of this lovely spot
and the surrounding country; after which, I once more
examined the heap of stones in the garden, and got some
good specimens of volcanic scoriae.
After breakfast. Captain Forbes rode to town, Mr.
Somerset and I followed, and in about an hour. Sir
Hudson and his retinue. We alighted at Sir Thomas
Readers, and finding that we could not immediately go
on board, Captain Forbes and Mr. Somerset rode up
Rupert's hill, to pay a visit to Mr. Balcome. I intended
to write one or two letters to be sent to the Cape, but
the servant having locked the room at the Admiral's
house, where I had deposited my writing apparatus, I
took a walk a little way up Ladderhill, and back to the
j^tty, intending to proceed along the rocks to the arch
ViSiT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 371
I had observed on our landings but found it inaccessible
bj land.
On the Captain's return, we went with Sir Thomas
to the castle, to take leave of the Governor. The castle
IS an old building, possessing no beautj or pecuhar fea-
ture. It lies to the left, on entering the gate from the
jettj. Having expressed to his Excellency^ as well as to
Sir Thomas and the other officers, the grateful sense we
shall ever retain of that kind attention which we had so
largely experienced, we entered the Captain's gig, and
went on board. Sir Thomas took charge of our letters^
an opportunity soon offering for the Cape. But if the
plan of obtaining provisions from the Portuguese settle-
ments of Angola and Benguela, on the opposite coast of
Africa, succeeds, the communication between St. Helena
and the Cape will not be so frequent. The loss in live
stock imported from the Cape, is found to be too great.
We had a good and swift passage, and yet lost twenty of
our sheep, and not long ago, out of thirty brought from
the Cape for the use of the officers, nine-and-twenty died
during the voyage.
The weather was fine, the sea smooth, and the wind
as fair as we could wish. We had been threatened with
a repetition of a fit of sea-sickness, after spending three
days on shore, but felt no symptoms of that unpleasant
malady. St. Helena remained in sight all day, and for
some hours we could see Longvvood through an opening
behind the Barn-rock. In the evening, the moon shone
bright, and we sat long on deck.
Of our fellow passengers, only Ca^ptain Crawford and
Lieutenant Keeling had been on shore. The former
complained sadly of the expense he had been put to at a
tavern. Lieutenant Keeling had been in camp with the
fifty-third regiment, called with Dr. O'Meara on Ber-
trand, and walked over the grounds at Longwood.
November 1st. We had entirely lost sight of St. He-
lena, and were gently gliding along towards the island
of Ascension. Having got rid of General Bonaparte's
goods, our decks were clear, and we had room to walk
two abreast from the wheel to the ladder. Having been
informed, that we were at war with the Algerines, our
372 JOURNAL OF A
valiant tars conceived good hopes, that we should " have
a brush'' with some of them.
In the afternoon the Captain ordered a general exer-
cise of great guns and small arms, without firing,
2d. A target being fixed at the end of the fore-top-
sail-yard, the marines and artillery-men fired at it. A
general exercise took place. The whole operation of
calling the men to quarters, mustering at the guns, each
officer taking his particular station, was put in practice ;
firing with great guns; resisting boarders; extinguish-
ing fire; falling down to avoid raking broadsides; jump-
ing up to fire ; &c. The manoeuvres were directed by
the captain, unexpectedly, as he thought fit, and the men
seemed to go through their work with great spirit. The
whole represented a naval engagement, and was to me
a very entertaining exhibition. In the sequel, this exer-
cise was frequently repeated.
4th. Every preparation was made, and I was informed^
that in case of an attack, in a few minutes we might be
ready for the fight. For some days past, I had per-
ceived a slight pain in my left leg, which to-day increased,
with some swelling. I submitted it to the surgeon's in-
spection, who pronounced it to be of not much conse-
quence, and gave me a lotion, which I believe was of
service, though the pain haunted me for some time. The
clouds seemed to announce a change of weather, and the
wind freshened; for which we were thankful. Some
showers passed over us in the afternoon.
6th. At breakfast, the master announced land from the
masthead, and in about an hour after, we could discern it
from on deck. Running with a fine breeze, at the rate
of eight knots an hour, we hoped to cast anchor at the
island of Ascension early in the afternoon.
Most of the officers on board saw this island for the
first time. We expected to see a low, flat, uninteresting
country, noted merely as a resort for turtles ; and were
therefore agreeably disappointed, when, at a distance of
forty miles, we beheld an outline, much more varied and
picturesque than that of St. Helena, and the volcanic
origin more perceptible. Sailing along the coast from
the south-east, the whole island appeared dreary in the
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 373
extreme. The sandy beach was as white as snow,-with
black rugged rocks interspersed. Behind it a horrid waste,
withblackguUies between the hillocks. The latter differed
in height, and seemed chiefly heaps of scoriae, of a coni-
cal form, one set up above the other, and enclosing higher
hills of a dark-brown colour. A high mountain rising in
the centre of the island, showed three peaks. A black
cloud rested upon it for some time, and is said generally
to obscure the summit, but we were favoured with so
clear a sky, that the cloud, though hovering above, sel-
dom descended upon it.
One headland after the other presented itself, as we
ran down ; and no vessel being seen for some time, the
Captain began to entertain doubts, respecting the situa-
tion of the anchoring ground, as pointed out in Hos-
burgh's Directory. At length, the masts of the Racoon
sloop of war were discovered rising behind a promontory^
but more to the westward than expected. Various sig-
nals were made and answered from a signal-house on one
of the hills, by which the arrival of the Zebra was an-
nounced to the Racoon.
Some of the strata of the rocks along the coast are
singular, both as to form and colour. They lie chiefly
horizontally, or dipping a little towards the south, in
some places in curved lines. The colours generally fol-
low each other downwards, thus : blueish-black ; dark-
brown; light-red; yellow; gray; earthy; and white,
near the beach. All seem to consist of a rotten, crum-
bling stone. Not a green spot is to be seen. The whole
island is a huge mass of cinders and hardened lava.
Large flights of the frigate-bird, and other sea-fowl,
kept hovering about the ship.
On doubling the point, we saw Captain Rich, of the
Racoon, coming towards us in his boat. He was soon on
board, and directed us where to cast anchor. We did
not arrive at the anchoring-place till seven P. M. and, af-
ter a late dinner. Captain Forbes accompanied Captain
Rich on board the Racoon.
7th. Though I felt a considerable degree of pain in
my left leg, and the surgeon advised my staying on
board, yet in so extraordinary a situation, in view of one
374 JOURNAL OF A
of the most remarkable islands in the Atlantic, encoura
ged by the finest weather, with little wind and surf, and
every convenience for landing, I hope I may be forgiven
for disregarding the surgeon's advice; nor blamed as
presumptuous, in venturing, at the risk of a Httle increase
of pain, to visit a place of such an inviting character.
Captain Forbes and Captain Crawford went to break-
fast on board the Racoon, but the gig was ordered to
attend Mr. Somerset and me.
To land on the sandy beach, even when the surf is
least violent, would be attended w'ith great danger. The
only safe way is to back the boat into some cove be-
tween rocks, and as the swell heaves its stern towards
the rock, without touching, to leap on shore.
On landing, some people showed us to Lieutenant
Roberts's tent. This officer had the command on shore,
in the absence of Captain Rich. The tents of the gar-
rison are placed among heaps of volcanic matter, resem-
bling cinder-heaps in the neighbourhood of London*
Every hill, both near the coast and in the interior, con-
sists of the same substance, chiefly of a deeper or lighter
brow^n colowr. Some look yellow and violet. At a dis-
tance, the brown tints change to a deep purple. On the
great mountain, the colour is a blueish-gray, with green-
ish spots, owing to the growth of a species of milk-bush,
here called parsley, and considered poisonous. The
white colour of some of the rocks seems to proceed from
calcareous substances.
We were informed by the officers, that there may be
about twenty acres in the island fit for cultivation. They
have made a garden on the great mountain, but they
must fetch their supply of garden-stuff, turf for firing, and
fresh water, from a distance of from seven to nine miles.
No tree is to be seen throughout the whole island. Two
small springs of fresh water are known, the nearest,
seven miles from the tents. But it is rather a continual
dropping from a rock, than a regular spring, and yields
two tons in twenty-four hours. The second is at the
garden near the summit of the great mountain, nine miles
distant from the battery, and, in the same space of time,
yields one hundred and forty gallons. As our water on
^^
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 375
board sent forth a very unpleasant smell, and could not
be used, the sweet water of this island was considered by
us as a great luxury.
The two naval Captains having joined us on shore, we
took a walk with Lieutenant Roberts towards the spring,
but the heat was so great, being 115 degrees Fahren-
heit by one, and 122 by another thermometer, and the
sand, or rather powdered cinders, so troublesome to the
feet, that after forcing ourselves forward for about two
miles, we were obliged to return. In all directions,
nothing but the most barren and desolate region met our
view. It appeared as if the tremendous eruption, by
which this island has been raised from the depths of the
ocean, had but lately ceased.
When we had regained the coast, the Captains re-
turned on board. Mr. Somerset walked with me to
the battery and store-houses, and along the coast, exami-
ning the rocks. They are a black lava, full of pores,
cavities, and crevices. Innumerable spotted crabs crawl-
ed about them, and many of the cavities were filled with
cockscomb oyster-shells, which stuck so fast, that it was
with difficulty I obtained one whole specimen. In some
places, the rocks are covered with a vitreous matter,
like glazing. Lieutenant Roberts presented me with
several large lumps of obsidien, or volcanic glass, found
in the interior.
The sand on the beach consists chiefly, and I may al-
most say wholly, of fragments of small shells, among
which were several broken parts of beautiful varieties of
a larger sort, but not one of them left whole.
There are no animals on the island but wild goat?,
and numberless rats, which proved very troublesome to
our people. Lieutenant Roberts having showed us the
officers' tents and mess-room, carried us on board the
Zebra in his boat, where we found several of the officeis
of the Racoon on a visit to those of our vessel.
The establishment at Ascension, was made in conse-
quence of General Bonaparte's confinement in St. Helena,
and under an apprehension, that unless we took fornjal
possession pf this isknd, some other power, or adventu-
376 JOURNAL OF A
rer, might make it a stepping-stone to forward his es-
cape.
The sun shone in full splendour, and illumined the
whole island. It is a beautiful object^ as far as outline
and colouring are concerned. One would not imagine
that nature's pencil could give such effect to so desolate
a spot. I endeavoured to obtain an exact sketch of the
whole coast, before which we lay, and as the cloud had
entirely withdrawn from the great mountain, nothing
w^as wanted to render it complete. The colours were
inimitably beautiful, and as the sun began to decline, al-
most every shade of red, brown, purple, lilac, blueish-
gray, yellow, orange, black, and white, was produced, in
one or other part of the landscape.
About four o'clock, the two Captains, Mr. Somerset^
and I, went on board the Racoon to dinner. She is a
very handsome ship, large for her class, rated at
eighteen guns, but carrying twenty-six, with a roomy
cabin, state-room, and quarter-galleries.
A boat having been sent to some distance, to procure
fish for Captain Forbes, we were detained on board till
long after sunset, when Captain Rich accompanied us on
board the Zebra, in his own boat. The anchor was
now discovered to be foul, and it lasted a considerable
time, before we w^ere disengaged, and could set sail. At
length, the buoy-rope being cut, we launched forth. I
had meanwhile enjoyed the pleasure of long contempla-
ting one of the finest nocturnal views ever seen. The
peaks of the great mountain were enveloped in black
clouds, of threatening aspect, but appearing stationary.
The full moon distinctly showed the whole outline of the
island, illumining the edges of the many loose airy
clouds, which, disengaging themselves from the grand
mass, by degrees spread over the heavens. The Racoon
in the fore-ground, with the play of the distant surf and
of the nearer waves, enlightened by the moon's rays, add-
ed greatly to the enchanting beauty of the scene. As
the wind rose with the increase of clouds, we did not
carry much sail during the night.
10th. Being Sunday, the Captain read prayers on
deck. The service was conducted with the greatest or-
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 377
der and solemnity. Immediatelj after, a strange sail
was announced, which proved to be a large merchant-
man, coming from the eastward, and standing athwart
our course. This is the first vessel we have seen at
sea, since we left the Cape.
15th. Porpoises and albicores were frequently about
the ship, and by the appearance of the clouds, calms and
squalls were expected. A heavy shower overtook us
about noon, and the sailors gained a good deal of fresh
water for washing.
16th. A water-spout appeared in the south-west, the
course of which we watched for some time, but it passed
a great way astern of us. The south-east trade-wind
had remained steady and fair, to this day, but after a
violent shower at noon, it suddenly fell calm, and we be-
gan to fear, that we had got into the region of calms
and squalls. But in about an hour's time, a breeze
sprung up from the north-east, which continued fair and
strong.
21st. Some showers passed over us. Every prepara-
tion was made for any unforeseen event, in reference to
the war with the Algerines. Blue lights were got ready,
and shot brought on deck.
22d. A merchant ship hove in sight, and a square-
rigged vessel was seen to windward. Boxes of case and
grape-shot were brought on deck. About noon, a sea-
man fell from the fore-top, and bruised his head exceed-
ingly. The loss of his services was much regretted, as
he was a remarkably clever and active man, and captaiu
of the top.
23d. Captain Forbes and I have been lately, at our
leisure, reading Goldsmith's compendium of the histories
of Greece and Rome, which Mr. Somerset had brought
with him. I cannot devest myself of the party feelings I
had, w^hen a boy at school. 1 then took a dislike to the
character of the Romans, and always wished success to
their enemies, more especially to Hannibal. Goldsmith's
great admiration of them therefore did not accord with
my sentiments. But the history of Rome is pecuharly in-
structive to an Englishman, and he may thereby learn,
what real enemies of the happiness of m:if)kind nil do^
48
378 JOURNAL OF A
tnagogues have ever been, however plausible their pre-^
tences.
25th. This morning, about four o'clock, the sky being
covered with dark clouds, and the moon set, a ship
coming from the eastward, approached us within two
cable-lengths. She hoisted lights, but the night was so
dark, that she was not immediately perceived by the
men on the look-out. By God's providence, she did not
run foul of us, which, as she was coming in full sail, and
right before the wind, might have proved a serious injury
to both vessels. The wind freshened towards evening,
and w^e ran at the rate of from eight and a half to ten
knots an hour.
26th. In sleepless nights, I was both disturbed and
amused by the various noises on board a ship of war.
First, the sentinel before our door cried. Log-time ! the
officer of the watch on deck : Heave the log ! Hold the
reel ! Shortly after: Strike the bell ! The Zebra's bell,
however, being broken when she went on shore in
Simon's bay, it sounded like an old tin kettle, till the
broken piece fell out, by which its tone was improved.
This lasted about a fortnight, when by some means it
got another crack, and lost its voice entirely. As make-
shifts are very common among sailors, they found, on
trial, that striking with the hammer on the flook of the
anchor, answered the purpose as well, and that was now
our belL It is struck every half hour, but not in imitation
of a clock. The day is divided into six parts. At twelve
at noon, it strikes eight times, or eight bells, as the
phrase is, two and two strokes distinct, „.„.„.„. at
half after twelve, one stroke ; at one, two strokes ; at
half-past one, three; and so on till four o'clock; when,
of course, the eight strokes return. Then, beginning
with one at half past eight o'clock, they are again com-
plete at twelve. If the officer says to the Captain, it is
twelve or six o'clock, the answer is, " make it so." When
the King was sailing in a frigate at Weymouth, hearing
the commander use that expression, he observed : ^^ You,
Sir, have more power than I have ; I cannot make it what
time / please." After the bell has struck, the sailors
placed as watch on the shrouds, and forecastle, cry out,
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 379
as loud as they can, lest they should be suspected of
sleeping: Larboard quarter; Starboard quarter ; Lar-
board bow. In the morning, there is pumping, scrub-
bing, trampling overhead, and the noise increases.
27th. The wind was variable with short calms, and
much lightning.
29th. It may seem impertinent, that I again introduce
a memorial of my late father on this anniversary of his
death, having already in my account of the same day,
spent at sea, on my voyage to the Cape, expressed my
feelings on that subject; but as I wrote this journal for
the perusal of my children, I could not help adding a
few lines in reference to it; and now, on revision, can-
not resolve to omit them, requesting the indulgence of
such, to whom they may appear obtrusive.
I have seen and known some persons, who possessed
one or other quality of my father's mind and heart, in an
equal, and, perhaps, superior degree; but never any
man, in whom so many excellent and useful qualifications
were combined. In his conversation with those, over
whom the situation he held in our Church had placed
him, he understood the rare art of gaining their esteem
and respect, and even securing perfect submission to his
superior judgment, without ever, in the least degree,
appealing to his station or authority ! He was open and
communicative, heard patiently the opinions of others,
though differing from his own; received their instruc-
tions, when needed, and felt no hesitation in confessing,
that he had been guided by the judgment of an inferior
in situation and ability. He was the friend of all, and
from the lowest to the highest, all felt at ease in his com-
pany. The lowest placed confidence in his sincerity, as
addressing a man, attentive to and interested in his
concerns, and ever willing to advise and assist. Again,
I might quote many instances, in which even the King's
ministers treated him with marked regard and attention,
honouring the uprightness of his heart, and the nobleness
of his spirit. In conversing with inferiors, he had no-
thing of that affectation of condescension, which gene-
rally proves a cobweb too thin to hide the pride lurking
beneath; and before men in power, his courteonsnesf5
380 JOURNAL OF A
partook of nothing like fear or cringing. As a man of
strong feelings, he may have felt strong partialities; but
he never suffered them to interfere with his judgment,
nor did I ever hear him express dislike, much less re-
sentment, against any individual, not even against a few,
who treated him ill. Though strong in his declarations
of abhorrence against vice, and especially against un-
truth and insincerity, he never directed his displeasure
against the sinner, but only against the sin. As a peace-
maker, he possessed an extraordinary talent, and it was
ever his heart's delight, to bring about reconciliation
and good-will. God's blessing attended his labours of
love, and what seemed incurable hatred was often
changed into perfect friendship, through his mediation.
In disinterested devotedness to the cause to which he
had dedicated his talents and his life, he set a noble ex-
ample to all in public stations of every description. He
never sought worldly advantage, either for himself or his
family, in any thing he undertook. But for the tempo-*
ral as well as spiritual welfare of others, he was at all
times ready to use his influence and best exertions.
In native eloquence, improved by study, we have never
seen his equal in our Church, and those who have heard
him in the pulpit, will grant, that his pre-eminence over
most preachers in his day, was great. His language
flowed with such ease, that, even when he raised his
audience to the highest enjoyment of the most sublime
and rapturous subjects, it was perfectly intelligible to all
classes, without ever descending into what might be con-
sidered too colloquial or vulgar. His manner was al-
ways luminous, powerful, and full of fine imagery, ex-
planatory of the subject before him.
In setting forth the great doctrines of Christianity, of
the depravity and helplessness of man, the necessity and
all-sufliciency of the atonement made by Jesus Christ,
justification by faith, and the hope of glory, he spoke
with an energy and unction, which never failed to arrest
attention, and touch the heart.
Being possessed of a soul truly musical, while he en-
couraged the use and practice of music in the church, by
every means within his reach, he resisted all innovation,
tending to destroy the grandeur and simplicity of the
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 381
true church-style, and his remarks on that part of the
service were most judicious.
In his whole deportment was seen, what a combina-
tion of natural talent diligently improved, sweetness of
temper, and the grace and love of God in the heart, may
effect.
There are now but few remaining, to whom I may
appeal for the truth of this account of my dear and
honoured father. He wished on his death-bed, that no-
thing might be said of him, for he thought it wrong to
give any praise to man, when the whole was due to God ;
yet we may be allowed to thank God for sending such a
servant, to benefit his cause on earth, and express our
heartfelt regret, that he was so soon removed, for he had
not yet completed his fifty-ninth year.
The cause of his death was an excrescence in the vi-
tals, of the nature of a common wen, which, had it ga-
thered in any external part, according to the opinion of
the surgeons, might have been removed without much,
if any pain.
May my end, whenever it pleases God to call me
hence, be hke his, as full of peace and assurance of eter-
nal bliss, through the merits of my Redeemer.
30th. We were to-day in the latitude of Corvo, one
of the Azores, but too far to the westward to see it.
The wind was rather high, and the sea turbulent. I
finished reading Goldsmith's history of Greece. Both
that, and his history of Rome, are excellent, luminous
compendiums. They show what the boasted preten-
sions of man are, without the influence of the Spirit of
God. Can there be any thing more diabolical than the
conduct of these people, once the most enlightened of
mankind by the powers of human reason.
December 1st. Advent-Sunday. I read with peculiar
delight the portions of Scripture appointed in our Church
for this day, and was in spirit among those, who witli
heart and voice sing "Hosanna, blessed is He that
cometh in the name of the Lord." In a conversation
with the Captain this evening, I was led to express my
thoughts concerning the present mode of education in
the world, which, in gei^eral, rather forbids, than •' suf-
382 JOURNAL OF A
fers little children to come to Jesus,'' though not from
the same generous, but mistaken views, which made His
disciples consider them troublesome. But it is said, that
if men are to live in the world, and to be a match for it,
they ought to be made acquainted with its ways in early
youth, and not brought up too religiously. I sometimes
thought, that by the care; taken to preserve me from the
ways, lusts, fashions, and ensnaring pleasures of the
world, I had missed much ; but from what 1 have seen,
since it has been in my power to know more of the
world, I find I have no cause to regret my very late ac-
quaintance with it, having still to learn^ where the great
happiness, so much boasted of, is to be found ; and as I
wish myself and every human creature to be completely
happy, I pray, that we all may find the true and only
source of that joy, which, as our Saviour expressed it,
" no man can take from us," and which, through Him,
may become the portion of us all.
2d. The sea was restless, and the ship pitched heavi-
ly. In the afternoon, the breeze freshened, and the spray
kept flying over the bulwarks, and on to the quarter
deck. The sky looked wild, and we took in sail.
3d. I did not feel well, but went on deck to behold
the sea, which appeared rather furious. Mighty waves
assailed us on all sides, and every precaution was taken.
During the forenoon, we sprung our main-yard, and ran
under close-reefed top-sails. The wind getting more aft,
the ship began to roll very much. The hatch-ways
w^ere closed, and tarpawlings put upon the sky-light of
the cabin ; but we were proceeding fast in the right
track. The clouds in the west had long looked very
black, and now rose with lightning and thunder, and a
heavy squall. All hands were turned up, as a severe
gale was expected. I retreated into my cabin. Both
this and the following day, the weather was very boiste-
rous and rainy.
5th. Though " well roused about,'' as the sailors call
it, and not able to sleep, I was truly thankful for the
swiftness with which we were approaching our dear na-
tive country. Surely the mercies of the Lord have been
every morning new. Not a blast of contrary wind have
VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 383
we had since we left the Cape, and this morning, just
when we wanted it, the wind shifted to the north-west,
and we ran at the rate of twelve knots for several hours.
All hands were employed in getting out a spar to fish
the main-yard. In these operations, the artillery-men
are of great service, and work with cheerfulness. The
waves rose higher to-day than I had ever yet seen, and
it was a great amusement to me to watch the ship's pas-
sage over them.
6th. We had proceeded swiftly and steadily during the
night. About eight in the morning, it began to blow what
even the sailors called a hard gale. But the sky was
perfectly clear and the sun shone upon the boisterous
ocean with great brightness. The waves seemed to roll
in upon us like mountains. The royal masts were struck,
and we ran under close-reefed top-sails and a storm stay-
sail. During the forenoon, the Captain was making
great exertions to get up the main-yard, which had been
fished yesterday, but was obliged to give it up till four
in the afternoon, when the wind abated a little.
7th. We were now in the chops of the Channel ; and
in the afternoon, on sounding, found ourselves in ninety-
eight fathoms water. Our calculations by the chronome-
ter have been so correct, that we were exactly where it
was supposed we should be. We sounded every four
hours during the night.
8th. The morning set in with a heavy squall, but in
our favour. During the forenoon, showers passed over
us. I was amused with observing the sand cleaving to
the bottom of the lead. The most minute shells, among
which were star-fish not above a quarter of an inch in
diameter, were brought up from a depth of from eighty
to sixty fathoms.
About two o'clock, a fishing-boat came to us. The
man brought two newspapers. We were sorry to hear
of some serious disturbances in several parts of England.
We learned also, that a severe engagement had taken
place between the English and Algerines, in which our
countrymen were victorious; and that, during a dread-
ful storm, about three weeks ago, many ships had been
wrecked in the Channel.
384 JOURNAL, &C.
9th. In the afternoon, we saw the Lizard point, and
entered the Channel with a gentle breeze at north-west.
About nydnight, the wind changed to south-west, increas-
ing in strength. We ran at the rate of nine and ten
knots an hour, and though it began to grow hazy with
drizzHng rain, discovered the different promontories, as
we passed swiftly along. About four miles to the west-
ward of the Isle of Wight, a pilot-boat hove in sight, and
a gun being fired to bring her to, the pilot soon came on
board. All crowded around him to hear the news. He
gave an account of Lord Exmouth's victory, and the sub-
mission of the Dey of Algiers. With a fine steady
breeze, we crossed the bridge between the Needles and
the main land, over which the sea plays in a terrible
manner, and reached the anchorage at Cowes about six
in the evening. During the night it blew hard, and we
were thankful to be in safety.
10th. Early, we weighed, and about eight A. M. an-
chored at Spithead. The Captain, Mr. Somerset, and I,
went on shore in the gig, and landed at the Sally Port.
Mr. Somerset set out from Portsmouth for the Duke of
Beaufort's seat, and I took leave of Captain Forbes with
sentiments of the greatest esteem and gratitude, nor shall
I ever forget the kindness experienced from him during
the whole voyage. The evening after our arrival, it blew
a terrible gale. While I heard the tempest roaring
without, I cannot express in words my thankfulness to
God for the extraordinary success, which attended us du-
ring the voyage, and for having been brought in safety
to shore, even at a season, when storms are most dreaded.
13th. I left Portsmouth, and in the evening arrived
safe in London, where I found my young friend Adolph,
who had but that day landed from the Brilliant. Thus
Lord Charles Somerset's hopes were verified ; for,
though I left the Cape a month and a day later than the
Brilliant, I landed in England three days sooner than I
should have done, had I sailed with that vessel.
THE END.
385
LIST OF TREES, SHRUBS, AND PLANTS,
Noticed in this Journal.
WITTEBOOM — Leucadendron argenteum.
Speckboom — Portulacaria afra, (or tree purslane.)
Wageboom — Protea grandiflora.
Geelhout — Podocarpus clongata.
Stinkhout — Laurus hullata B.
Melkhout — Sideroxylon inerme.
Eysterhout — Olea undulata B.
Dornbush — Acacia capensis, is the common sort.
Kreupel-bosch — Leucospermum conocarpum, (the firewood grown
under Table Mountain.)
Roth-els — Cunonia capensis.
Witt-els — Weinmannia trifoliata.
Gomassi-hout — ^a plant of the order Contortas.)
Taaibosch — a species of Rhus, of which genus several bear the
name of Taaibosch.
Camphor-wood — Laurus camphora, (is not a native of the Cape.)
Oliven-hout — Olea similis B. (a large tree with long narrow leaves.)
Rhinosteros-bosch — Stoebe rhinocerotis.
Zuyker-bosch — Protea mellifera.
Chinese Rose — Rosa semperflorens.
Waxberry-bush — Myrica cordifolia.
Poison-apple — Solanum sodomeum, (a prickly shrub.)
Bosch-tau or Bavianstau — Cynanchum obtusifolium, (other plants
are also called so.)
Bamboo — Bambusa arundinacea.
Spanish Riet — Arundo donax.
Aloes, several sorts — Of the genus Aloe, nearly all the species are
indigenous at the Cape.
Agave Americana is found about Capetown.
Fahlblar — A small species of Aloe, blueish leaf, scarlet flower.
Farkblar — (pig-leaf,) Calla Ethiopica.
Pisang — The sort growing wild in the Zuureveld, is Strelitzia
reginae ; that which grows in Plettenberg-bay, is Strelitzia
augusta.
Indian Fig — Cactus opuntiae, used for fences.
Hottentot Fig — Mesembryanthemum edule.
Chandelier — Brunsvigia multiflora.
Seven-years-flower — Gnaphahum eximium, with a leaf like woollen
cloth. Several kinds.
Riet Reed Rush — Restio. Various sorts are used for thatching.
Palmite — Juncus serratus, of Thunberg.
Papkull— Typha latifolia.
Baviansblom — Is a name given to various species of Babiana's.
49
386
Hottentot food — A bulb with a long stalk.
Moss — The long-hanging kind is a species of Usnea.
Bukku — A medicinal plant of singular virtue.
hi the Island of St, Helena,
Mat-grass,
Chinese Yew,
Dog tree^
Cabbage tree,
Gum tree,
Coffee tree,
Goblekeur, with a small blue floweif.
Cinnamon,
Cloves,
Norfolk Island Pine.
BEASTS.
ELEPHANT— Elephas Africanus.
Lion — Felis Leo.
Tyger, not the East India, but a large panther.
Leopard — Felis Leopardus.
Wolf — Hyena Crocuta.
Buffaloe — Bos caffer.
Jackal — Canis mesomelas.
Koodoo — Antilope strepsiceros.
Gnoo — Antilope Gnu.
Hartebeest — Antilope bubalis.
Springbock — Antilope saltans.
Buntebock — Antilope.
Boschbock — Antilope sylvatica.
Blaubock— Antilope leucophaga. This is a large animal, and very
different from the little one of the Zuureveld.
Dog.
Wild-dog — Hyena Venatica. B.
Rehbock — Antilope.
Elland — Antilope Oreas.
Cape-ox is a variety of Bos Taurus,
Sheep — Capra Capensis.
Aardfark, Earth-hog — Myrmecophaga capensis.
Porcupine— -Hystrix cristata.
Mole— The large sort is Myotalpha maritima. The smaller i-
Myotalpha capensis.
Zebra — Equus Zebra.
Quagga — Equus Q,uagga.
Steenbock — Antilope.
Baboon — Cercopithecus ursinus.
Monkey.
BIRDS.
Albatross — A species of Diomedea.
Frigate-bird-^Pelecanus Aquilus of Linneus.
387
Cape-pigeon is probably a species of Sterna, a sea-bird.
Hawk.
Falcon.
Spreuw— Starling.
Wittegat Spreuw — Turdus morio of Linneus.
Groene Spreuw — Turdus nitens.
Yellow finch.
Zuyker Vogel, (Sugar-bird,) a species of humming-bird. The
different species of Zuyker Vogelen^ that have received
names, are
Certhia Caifra, the large, brown, long-tailed.
■ famosa. Green.
violacea. > small, with yellow, red, and blue breasts ; a
chalybea. \ common sort.
Swallow, domestic.
Do. wild — Hirundo capensis.
Secretary-bird — Falco serpentarius of Linneus.
Fiscal — Lanius coUaris.
Green Cuckoo.
Louri or Touraco — is the Cuculus Persa of Linneus.
Cape-lark — Alanda capensis.
Korhan — a species of Otis.
Guinea-fowl, wild — Numida mitrata.
Partridge — Perdix.
Wild Peacock — a species of Otis.
Penguin-^^Aptenodytes demersa.
Turtle dove — Columba.
Crow — Corvus.
SERPENTS, &c.
COBRA di capella, not crested. This is very different from the
true Cobra di capella of India.
Nachtschlange.
Schaapstecher, unnamed species of the genus Coluber of Linneus-.
Bergadder. Do.
Puffadder. Do.
Erdschlange, earth-serpent — a species of Anguis.
Cuytges, in thatch, Lacerta Geitje, of Sparmann.
Salamander.
Chameleon — Trapsoetges. Chameleon.
Tarantula — species of Aranea, (not the true tarantula of Europe.)
Scorpion — Scorpio.
Ants, large and small — Formica.
Buschlouse, resembling the Acarus ricinus.
Whale-louse.
Lizards — Most of the lizards are at present unnamed.
Crocodile, or Kayman — Lacerta riparia B.
I N D E X.
ABUE, Mr. at Mossel-bay, 135.
Accidents, 130, 152, 164, 177.
Adder, Berg-adder, Puff-adder. See
Serpents,
Addison's Spectator, 13.
Ados Drift, on Sunday's river, 233.
Address to Hottentots, 108, 279, 323.
Akkerman, Mr. a farmer, 18 1, 240.
Albatross, bird, 26.
Albicore, fish, 18.
Alexander, H. Esq. Colonial Secretary,
33,49,50,51, 101, 135,306.
Algerines, war with England, 371, 383.
Algoa-bay, 204.
Aloes, 35, 44, 125. Decoction of, 136.
Large, 189.
Ants' nests, 57. Used as ovens, 315.
In the ground, 301. Flying ants, 138.
Large, 314.
Appell, Philip, a Hottentot, account of,
273.
Appetite, total want of, useful, 2. 21.
Aris, Lebrecht, a Hottentot, 114. Case
of, 119.
Arniston, East Indiaman, lost off Cape
Aguillas, account of, by Dr. Hassner,
76, 258.
Ascension Island, described, 372.
Ass, Van, Mr. 127.
Assistants, 71.
Attaquas-kloof, 251.
Ausflucht Farm, 239.
Austin, Mr. at Somerset, 225.
Authors, German, sentimental, 17.
Azores Islands, 381.
BAAKENS, or boundary-stores, 110.
Baboons, 54, 96^ 111, 174, 223, 252,
284.
Baptism of children, 44. Of adults, 48,
81.
Barbiers Kraal, 149.
Barkhuis, Mr. 172. Mrs. J. 173, 248.
Bartlett, Mr. of the Missionary Society
in London, 111.
Basaltes, St. Helena, 359.
Batje, Peter, a Hottentot, account of,
264.
Ba viands Kloof, 57, 61, 69, 82.
B avian's Mountain, 57.
B avian's Revier, in Graaf Reynet, 227.
Baviau's Tau, or Bushrope, a creeper,
149.
Beetles, black, 133.
Belfry at Gnadenthal, 63.
Bentinck, , Esq. 101.
Bethelsdorp, visit to, 200. Described,
201.
Bird, Colonel, Colonial Secretary, 34,
101, 320.
Bird, Wilberforce, Esq. 349.
Birthday, celebration of, 99.
Blauberg, 39, 287.
Bluebock antelope, 164,
Bock Revier, 118, 263.
Bonatz, J. Gottlieb, missionary, 45, 69,
82, 105. Leaves Gnadenthal, 112,
114. Adolph, his son, 326.
Bonavista, Island, Cape de Verd, 15.
Bonaparte, General, overthrow of his
power. Stores for, 352, 363, 366.
Boschberg, 205, 222. Described, 223.
Boschlemmer knives, made at Gnaden-
thal, 133, 239, 240.
Botte Revier, farmer at, 55, 95.
Boundary of Gnadenthal, 84, 1 10.
Brak Revier, 138.
Breede Revier, 121.
Bricks, Hottentots' manner of making,
64, 341, 344.
Bridge over the Palmite Revier, describ-
ed, 284.
Brilliant brig, engage a passage on
board, 304, 328, 333.
Bruntjes Floogte, Achter, 199.
Buchenrode, Mr. Von, 206.
Buck, Mr. a fellow-passenger, 2, 305.
Bueffeljagds Revier, 125. 259.
Buffaloes, 156, 210, 236, 262.
Building of a new house at Gnadenthal^
64. Of a new church at Groenc-
kloof, 287, 314, 323.
Buissini, P. Von, Esq. Landdrost of
Zwellendam, 123.
Bukku, a plant, described, 157, 267.
Bullocks, Cape, 37. See Oxen.
Buntebock, antelope, 259.
Burial of Christian Hottentots described,
91.
Bulla 1-giounds describcd| 43, 60.
390
INDEX.
Burnt Kraal, 219.
Butchers, Cape, 303, 3G8.
Bush-cat described, 247.
CAFFRARIA, view of, 221.
Caffres, Christian, 67, 317, 318. Wild,
devastation made by, 151. Cruelty
of, 156. Prisoner, 205. Thieves, 220,
232.
Cairns, Dr. 299.
Caledon, Earl of, 43.
Caledon, village and drosty, 74.
Caledon Institute. See Zuurbrak.
Chameleon described, 37, 321.
Camera obscuraj use of, 72, 83.
Campbell, Rev. Mr. 201.
Candidates for baptism, 45, 70.
Candidates for the Lord's Supper, 70.
Capelle, Baron de, his arrival at the
Cape, 102.
Cape Downs, 103.
Capetown, 30. Its inhabitants, 32.
Buildings, 33. Last visit to, 345. De-
parture from, 349.
Captains, Hottentot, 43, 81.
Cat, kills snakes, 208.
Catholics, Roman, ^2.
Caverns, 190.
Chamtoos Revier, 82, 190. Wagen-
drift, 239.
Chandelier, a plant, described, 161.
Chapel- servants, 71. Their annual
meeting, 71.
Children. See Schools. Baptism.
Chinese gardens, St. Helena, 359.
Christmas, 33.
Church, Established, Calvinist, 30, 260.
Lutheran, 33, 291, 306, 313, 347.
Church at Gnadenthal, described, 62,
80. New, at Groenekloof, 287, 314,
323.
Circuit, 77.
Clemens, August, missionary, 11, 55,
78, 84.
Cloete, Capt. Aide de Camp to the Go-
vernor, 102.
Cloete, , Esq. 36, 330.
Cloete, Dirk, Esq. 96, 286.
Commadocha, Military post, forsaken,
219.
Communion, Holy, celebration of, 72,
271, 294, 317.
Communicants, 70.
Conference of Elders of the Unity, 41.
Confirmation, previous to the Lord's
Supper, 92.
Constantia, vineyards, description of,
330.
Conversations with Hottentots in the
interior, 127, 131, 135, 167, 175, 181.
About land, 278.
CorO} manner of sowing, 306.
Cradock, Sir John, Governor, 143.
Croucher, Mr. overseer of the Groote
Post, 313.
Cruelty to animals reprobated, 28, 117,
302.
Cruywagens-kraal, 44, 297, 342.
Cuckoo, Green, 153.
Cuyler, Colonel, landdrost of Uitenha-
gen, 144, 198.
DACHA, a poisonous herb, 324.
Dambra, Hottentot tribe, 315,322, 325.
Dashwood, , Esq. 305, 337.
Delport, Mr. a farmer, 285.
De Nyssen, , Esq. fiscal, 34.
DeviPs-hill, 30, 101.
Disandt, Mrs. 31, 101. See Capetown,
349.
Discipline, church, instances of, 41, 112,
269, 272, 273.
Dogs, not provided, 127. Thieving, 187,
206, 320.
Dolldrums, a sailor's term, 10.
Dorn Revier, Great, 249.
Doxology, 48.
Dragoons, English, civility of, 129, 248#
Dress of Christian Hottentots, 66.
Drift, a ford near the Riet valley, 328.
Duckett, Mr. 335.
Dundas, General, Governor, 129.
Dunen, sand hills, described, 340.
Duivelskop mountain, 163.
Du Preez, Piet, 129, 130, 258. Cobus,
130, 257.
Dutch, spoken at Gnadenthal, 288.
Duyvenhoeks Revier, 129.
EARTH-HOGS, 301.
Easter, spent at the Boschberg, 221.
Education. See Schools. Schoolmasters,
321.
Elephants, 156, 209, 213, 234.
Elephant-stones, 322, 335.
Elland, antelope, 254.
Ellandsfonteyn, 241.
Engelbrecht, Mr. Cornelius, 230.
English, Capture of Cape, favourable
disposition of, 278. Taxation, 236,
&c.
Epiphany, festival of, 47.
Eseljagd Revier, 248.
Essen bosch farm, and encampment at^
183,239.
Exercises on board the Zebra, 372.
Eysterhout wood, 37, 165,
FAHLBLAR, a plant, 45.
Farewell-address at Gnadenthal, 279.
At Groenekloof, 323.
Farms, 53, &c.
Father, annual remembrance of his
<leath, 22, 379.
mDEX.
391
Fereira, Mr. Stephen, 175. His encoun-
ter with a tyger, ib.
Finches, yellow, their nests, 321,
Fire-box, surprise occasioned by, 132.
Fires on the mountains, 97, 104, 174,
252.
Fiscal-bird, 107.
Fish River, Great, 220. Little, 221.
Fiying-fish, 8, &;c.
Forbes, Lieutenant, 219.
Forbes, Henry, Esq. Conomander of his
Majesty's Sloop Zebra, 345, 351, 384.
Ford of the Sonderend, 61. Of the
Bueffeljagds Revier, 125. In the
Ruygte Valley, 151. Of the Knysna,
154.
Foundation, of new church at Groene-
klook, 316. Foundation-stone laid,
323, 336.
Frauenfelder, , Esq. deputy land-
drost of Caledon, 76.
Friar rock and valley, St. Helena, 366.
Fritsch, J. missionary, 40, &c. 307, 334,
340, 341, 345.
Frost, hard, 312.
Funeral, description of, 91, 107, 337.
Furze bushes in St. Helena, 365.
GAENSE KRAAL, on the Sonderend,
89.
Gaense-kraal, farm of Dashwood,
Esq. 337.
Galgenbosch, a district, 195, 235.
Gardens, at Capetown, 32. At Gna-
denthal, 65.
Geelhoutboom, 208.
Geese, hungry, 134.
George, village and drosty of, 143.
Glens. See B avian's Kloof. Also 137,
158.
Gnadenthal, arrival at, 57. Descrip-
tion of, ib. 63. Return from Cape
to, 105. From the interior to, 264.
Departure fronfi, 281.
Good Friday, celebration of, 218.
Governor, his Excellency the, 35, 102,
320, 346, 349.
Gowcomma Revier, 152.
Gowritz Revier, 133, 255.
Granite, 36, 43, 138, 149. With schls-
tus, 306.
Grant, Edward, Esq. 288, 346, 349.
Gravestones, 106.
Groeneland, 139.
Groenekloof, arrival at, 40. Account
of, 42. Second journey to, 94. Third
journey to, 281, 307. First depar-
ture from, 326. Second farewell, 345.
Groote Paerdekraal, 252.
Groote Post, a farm, 295, 313.
Groot Vader's Bo»ch, 124.
HAAGEKRAAL, 253.
Hancke, Henry, Esq. 31, 102, 294, 328,
347, 349.
Hartebeest-house described, 249.
Hartenbosch farm, 136.
Hassner, Dr. 75, 282.
Haue Hoek mountain, 55, 95.
Heat, excessive, 98, 118.
Hector, Christian, Hottentot, 114. Sent
back, 123.
Helena, baptized by Father George
Schmidt, 60.
Helena, St. 355, &c.
Helsland, Von , Esq. 118, 262.
Helstinge, Van, Mrs. 331.
Herold, Rev. Mr. minister of George*
144.
Hesse, Rev. Mr. 33, &c. 303, 318, 346.
Letter to him about the Church of
the Brethren, 354.
Hesqua tribe, account of, 108, 277.
Hills of singular form, 153, 166, 173.
Hoetz, Mr. his villa, 289.
Hoogte Kraal, settlement of the Mis-
sionary Society in London, described,
140.
Hooper, Mr. missionary at Bethelsdorp,
200.
Hospitality, instance of, 88.
Hottentots, first meeting with Christian,
40. Instances of character, 45. 64,
72, 77, 112, 188. Desire for instruc-
tion, 194. Of Bethelsdorp, 196, 202.
Riding on oxen, 208. Conduct of,
261, 266, 276, 281, 286, 309, 343,
344.
Hottentot-Hollands-Kloof, 54, 95, 285.
Huet, a French bishop. Miller's life of, 6.
Hunykliff Kloof, 255.
Huysteyn, Van, Mr. veldcornet, 158.
Hospitality of, 164.
JACKAL^S KRAAL, 142, 157. Sur-
vey of, 158, 159. Hottentots object
to a settlement at, 161.
Jagersbosch mountain, 110.
Jagersbosch farm, 181, 240.
James-town, St. Helena, 356.
Jansen, General, Dutch Governor, 60.
Jerboa, (springhaas,) Dutch, 210.
Jeremias Waly, Hottentot wagoner, 114.
Jester at Constantia, 331.
Immanuel, a Hottentot, 303.
Indian-fig, fence of, 293, 357.
Injustice, instances of, to Hottentots, 84,
120.
Ink made of the wageboom leaf, 234.
Instruction in Christian doctrines, 79,
&;c.
Johannes Paerl, Hottentot servant, 114.
Jones, Rev, Dr, Senior Chaplain, 321.
392
INDEX.
Joorst, a farmer, conversation with, 94,
Journey to Groenekloof, 37. To Gna-
denthal, 34. To visit the farmers, 84.
Second, to Groenekloof, 94. To
Capetown, 100. Return to Gnaden-
thal, 103. To the Interior, 91, 114.
To Groenekloof, 281. To Cape, 328.
Pedestrian, 347.
Ironstone, variety of, 38. Fossil, 251.
Justice, instance of equal distribution
of, by English law, 77.
KAFFRE KUYLS Revier, 257.
Kaffre Kraal, 234.
Kango Cave, description of, by Mr.
Poleman, 60.
Karroo-field, 249,
Kayman's Gat, defile, 146, 147.
Kemp, Van der. Dr. missionary, 142,
160, 201. His house, 203.
Kersteobosch, seat of H. Alexander,
Esq. 51, 101.
Kervel. Van , Esq. landdrost of
George, 142. 146. 248, 256.
Kierboom-tree, 105.
Kierboom's Revier, 86, 173.
Klapmus, Captain of Hottentots, 48.
His dwelling, 301.
Klaarefonteyn, 195, 235.
Kleinberg farm, 134.
Klein Revier, 101, 199, 237. Visit to
the farm at, 238.
Klemm's, Mr. his farm, 56^ 94.
Kliphuebel, 177.
Klip Revier, 172.
Kh'ppedrift farm. 249.
Knobel, Mr. surveyor, 207.
Knysna river, 154.
Kohrhammer, J. Philip, missionary, his
widow, 61, 84. His first sermon at
Groenekloof, 300, 330.
Kok, Servas de, a farmer, 283.
Koodoo, antelope, 250.
Koopman, Hottentot Captain, 109, 110,
277.
iCoster, Mr. missionary, 261.
Kotzee, Mr. 39, 287.
Kouga Revier, 208.
Kourney, arrival at, 215.
Kraal, a general name for a dwelling of
man or beast. Round kraal near the
Paerdekop, 166. Kloetes Kraal, 167.
Krieg, Mr. a farmer, 255.
Kromm Revier, 180, 239.
Kuehnel, Father J. H. 58, 73, 93, 110.
Kuntz, Mr. a farmer, 78.
LAATSTE STUIVER, land, 341.
Landdrosts, letters to, 103, 132.
Langefonteyn, Mr. Dirk Slabbert^s
farm, 343.
Lange Kloof, 174.
Lark, Cape, so called, 302.
Latakoun, 203.
Lava, red, 361.
Lauweskloof, 43. Hill, 296, 297, 342.
Laws, English, 77, 236.
Lehrer, teacher, name given by the
Hottentots td-the missionaries, 44.
Leitner, J. M. P missionary, 57, 75.
Lemmerz, John, missionary, 56, 92, 103.
Leonhard Paerl, Hottentot groom, 114.
Letter, Colonel Bird's, to landdrosts,
122.
Letters to children, 24. To various, ibr
Lichen, vermilion-coloured, 166.
Liesching, Dr. 340, 348.
Limpets, large, at Green Point, 306.
Linde, Mr. hospitality of, 86.
Line, crossing the, ceremonies of, 18.
Lion, tame, 200.
Liturgy, at baptisms, 44. For Fridays,
79.
Lombard, Mr. his farm, 128, 258. A
relation, 256.
Longwood, St. Helena, described, 362.
Lowe, Sir Hudson, Governor of St. He-
lena, 356, 368.
Loyalty, 170, 273.
Luther, Dr. Martin, retains the use of
music, 292.
Lutherans, 51.
Lutheran minister, duties of, 347.
Lynx, 210.
MACKRILL, Dr. 222.
Madeira, 9.
Marcus, Hottentot wagoner, 1 14.
Marriages of Christian Hottentots, 106.
Marsveld, Father Henry, 45. His ob-
servation on the state of the Mission
at Gnadenthal, 72 Account of be-
ginning of labour here, 82. Con-
firms, 92. Conversations, 109, 280,
&:c.
Matthiesen, , Esq. 304, 305.
Mat-grass, St. Helena, 361.
Matting, presented by Hottentot wo-
men, 113.
Mausehund. See Mongoose.
Meade, Hon. General, 51
Melkhout Kraal, 142, 155.
M'Kenny,Rev. Mr. 52.
Melville, Mr. 93, 101, 112, 114, 119,
170, 263, 343.
Messer, Mr. missionary at Bethelsdorp,
200.
Mey, Mr. a farmer, 177, 241.
Meyer, Mr. a farmer, 136
Miller, Mr. John. Irish hospitality, 257.
Missionary Society in London, settle-
ments of. See Zuurbrak, Hoogte
Kraal, Bethelsdorp.
INDiEX.
393
Missions of the United Brethren. See
Gnadenthal, Groenekloof.
Mole-hills, 57.
Mongoose, a viverra, 35, 293.
Monkey, gray, 200.
Montgomery's World before the Flood,
8.
MorkePs farm, 53.
Moses, Philip, a Hottentot, attacked by
a tyger, 298.
Mossel-bay, Government place, de-
scribed, 135.
Mountains of Gnadenthal, 57, 74, 90,
262, 280. Of Stellenbosch, 286. Of
Zwellendam, 121, 202. Of George,
Paerdekop, 166. Lange Kloof, 174.
Winterhoeks, 189, Zuurberg, 218.
Rocky, 327. About the Cape, 348,
351.
Moy- Mack's Revier, part of Groene-
kloof, 322.
Mules, 52.
Muller, Mr. at Kleinberg, 134.
Muskiliat-cat, 293
Music, Hottentots delight in, 67, 107.
Haydn and Mosart's, 142, 207. In a
glen, 170. Bad sinking, 140. Abuse
of, 291. Concert, 346.
NAMAQUAland, 111,203.
Nels, commandant, 228.
Neologen. Deists, 319.
Neukirch, Mr. a farmer, 195, 196, 234,
286.
Newlands, country seat of the Governor,
35. Visits at, 49, 290.
New people, so called, 70.
Night's lodging at Mr. Linde's described,
87. At Mr. Sibran's, 96. In the wil-
derness, 97. In an empty room at
Hottentot's Holland, 104. Disturb-
ed, 230. In a blacksmith's shop, 237.
In a Hartebeest house, 249, &c.
Nursery of young trees, 105.
OAKELY, Mr. 225.
Oaks, their growth, 53, 58, 89, 105.
Objection against settlements near a high
road, 182.
Ocean, Atlantic, its inhabitants, 5, 21.
Occupations on board a ship, 21.
Okkers, Benjamin, a Hottentot garden-
er, 93.
Oliphant's Revier, 249.
Oliviers farm, 177.
Opzieners, (overseers,) appointment of,
267, 272.
Organ, 318.
Osterhuysen, Mr. a farmer at Kourney,
215, 232.
Ostriches, 132.
Oversetting of the baggage-wagon, 177.
Outspann-place, 117. Hot, 121.
Oxen. 37. Harness, 38. Cruelty to^
117. Wild, 127, 132, 134, 146, 148, 149,
242, 260. Swimming, 15i,lB0, 193.
PACALT, Mr. a missionary, 140.
Paerdekop, mountain, 163, Passage
over, 166.
Paerl, Leonhard, 114. His account of
Mission, 194.
Paerl, Johannes, 114.
Palmite, a plant, 162.
Palmite Revier, 54. Bridge over, 284.
Paradise Lost, Milton's, 19.
Peaches, mode of drying, 78.
Peacock, wild, 136, 164.
Peak of Teneriife, 12.
Pear-tree, planted by Father George
Schmidt, 60.
Pebbles, coloured by iron 55.
Perihelion about the sun, 27.
Persecution, instance of, 243.
Petersen, Mr. surveyor, 133.
Pictures, understood by Hottentots, 93*
Pigeon, Cape, 27-
Piton rocks, 10.
Plantation-house, residence of the Go-
vernor of Ht, Helena, 356.
Plantations, 322, &c.
Plettenberg-bay, 89, 142, 160, 161.
Plough, iron, 313. 334.
Poleman, Mr. 50, &;c. 293, 304, 330j
347.
Poor, care of the, 98, 265.
Porcupines, 239.
Porpoises, 4. Bottle-nosed, 16.
Port, the, in Plettenberg-bay, 156.
Portuguese man of war, a j5sh, described^
24.
Prejudices, opposing improvement, 89.
Prisoner at Uitenhagen, C. B. 206.
Puffadder, 302.
Pylstort, arrow-tail, fish, 335,
QUAGGA, 255.
Quarry at Groenekloof, 315.
Quartz, 56. Crystallized, 167.
RACKS for drying peaches, 78.
Read, Mr. missionary at Bethelsdorp,
200.
Reade, Sir Thomas, St. Helena, 357,
<fec. 370.
Rebels, execution of, 144, 197. Con-"
fiscated farm, 225. Account of meet-
ings, 226.
Regulations, bb. 70, 78.
Relays, 122, &c.
Rendsberg, Mr. veldcornet, 248.
Rex, George, Esq. 142, 153, 157.
Rhinoceros, 213, 234.
Rhinoceros-bush, every whore, a plant.
50
394
INDEX.
Rhyneveld, , Esq. landdrost of
Stellenbosch, 52.
Riebeck, Dutch Governor, 2 J 4.
Riet Valley, 345.
Roads, good about Capetown, 38.
Robbery of Hottentot's land, 84.
Robyntjes kraal, 1 10, 264.
Rocks, called the Eight Stones, 9. On
the Witte Revier, 211. Of St. Hele-
na, 356.
Rutter, Mr. a farmer, at Groote Paerde-
kraal, 252.
Ruygte Valley, 151.
SAFFRAN'S Revier, 251.
Sal Island, Cape de Verd, 15.
Sa'va^es. Inlands, 10.
Samson's Revfer, 156.
Sand-stone, every where, coloured by
iron, 70.
Sand Vlachte, a military post, 216,232.
Sandy-bay, St. Helena, described, 361,
365.
Scheper, Jacobus, senior, 210. Junior,
accompanies through the Witte Re-
vier valley.
Schlagboom farm, in the Witte Revier
valley, 214.
Schlangen Revier farm, 258.
Schmidt, Father George, first missiona-
ry, 60.
Schmitt, J. H. a missionary, 35, 100,
111, 114, 131, &c. 265. His encoun-
ter with a tyger, 298. Birthday, 340.
Schoolmasters, 246 327.
Schools, 79, 81, 277, 312.
Schroeder, Mr. a builder, 321, 324.
Schultz, meeting witli, 104.
Schwinn, Father Daniel, 58, 78, 110, &c.
His decease, 309.
Select narratives of History of the Bre-
thren, 13.
Secretary-birds, 197.
Seidenfaden, Mr. a missionary, 126.
Serpents, 80, 87, 107, 137, 141, 223,
229,315,321, 331,343.
Service, divine, on board the Albion, 3.
At George, 143.
Shaw, Mr. a missionary, 303.
Sibran, Mr. a German farmer, 95.
Siebenfonteyn, near Giiadenthal, 67.
Sieckenhaus, a farm, 85.
Eieurvogel, Mr. 320.
Singing of the Hottentots, 40, 57, 67, 73.
Skins, manner of tanning, 265.
Sky, evening, description of, 12.
Slabbert, Mr. a farmer, account of Vail-
lant, 287, 317, 321, 323, 333.
Slaves, price of, 125. Lively, 131, 133.
Deserter, 250.
Smallpox, at the Cape, 34.
Snyman, Mr. a farmer, 133.
Society, British and Foreign Bible, pre-
sent to the Mission, 79.
Society, Brethren's, for the Furtherance
of the Gospel, 41.
Soete-Melks- Valley, timber granted by
government, 80, 90.
Soldiers, military posts, a soldier killed
by an elephant, 213.
Solomon, a Hottentot, 94. His confi-
dence, 97.
Somerset, Lord Charles Henry, Govern-
or of the Cape, 35. See Governor.
Somerset, Henry Villiers Plantagenet,
Esq. 329.
Somerset, a settlement on the Boschberg,
221.
Sout Revier, Little, 138, 327.
Soute Kloof, 191, 239.
Sonderend river, 57, 85, 1 19.
Spangenberg, bishop, Ri«ler's life of, 9.
Spann, a Dutch term, team of oxen or
horses, 117.
Spectator, opinion of parts of the, 13.
Springbocks, antelopes, in herds, 229.
Starlings, Spreuven, 339.
Stalactites, in Kango Cave, 50.
Statutes. Rules, 267.
Stein, J» G. Juergen, missionary, 46,
111, 114. Hurt by the oversetting of
the wagon, 178.
Stell, Van, Governor, 332.
Stellenbosch, village and drosty, 52.
Mountains, 53.
Stephen, a Hottentot, killed by a horse,
69, 72.
Stinkrevier, 134. ^
Stoffels-Kraal, Hottentot station, 84.
Stoll, , Esq. landdrost of the Cape
district, 34, 326, 340.
Stones for building, 313.
Storm at Groenekloof, 100,309,311.
Sugar-bush, 254, 285.
Sunday, amusements of lower classes on,
at the Cape, 32.
Sunday's River. See Zondags Revier.
Swallows, domestic and wild, 339.
Swann, Mr. surveyor, 221, 228.
TABLE Mountain, 29, 102.
Taxation, observation on it, 331.
Teneriffe, 11.
Terblanche, Mr. a farmer, 152.
Tennis, Mr. senior, 85.
Teunis, Mr. William, 90.
Tennis, Jan, 85.
Thom, Rev. Mr. missionar3% ^2^'
Thomsen, , missionary, 25, 74, 105.
Thornbush, mimosa, 121.
Thunder storm, dreadful, 100.
Timber, rearing of, neglected, 89. In
Plettenberg-bay, 16^
Tortoises, 56, 302.
INDEX.
395
J ower of Babel, mountain, 56^ 74.
Travelling, mode of, at the Cape, 37.
Arrangeipents for travelling, 116.
Trees destroyed by Hottentots, 314.
Curious in St. Helena, 361.
Trekata*kou, defile, 150.
Trutter, Von, , Esq. President of
the Court of Justice, 34.
Tygers, 87, 90, 137, 151, 171, 175, 182,
184, 192, 240, 289, 297.
Tygerfonteyn, 132.
VANDERHAGEN, missionary, 220.
Van Klerk, a farmer, 221.
Van Rhenen, Sebastian, Mr. 290, 331.
Van Roy, Mr. a farmer, 193, 235.
Van Staade's Revier, 195.
Van Vyvers» Mr. 229.
Vat Revier, 130,257.
Veldcornet, an inferior officer under Go-
vernment, account of, J 86.
Verwey. Mr. veldcornet, 326.
Vineyards, 34.
Uitenhagen, 192.
Vlachdorn, a plant, 262, 308.
Ungelegen farm, 174.
Volcanic appearances, St. Helena, 356,
&c.
Vorspann. See Relays, 122.
Voss, Rev. Mr. 75.
Voyage, account of, 1.
Urie, Mr. a German farmer, 95, 284.
WAGEBOOM, a tree, 170, 177,218,
234.
Wagebooms Revier, 177.
Wagons, Cape, described, 37, 116.
Strength of, 165.
Wallis, Captain, 356, 360.
W^arra-bath, near Caledon, described,
75.
Water, want of, the cause of unfruitful-
ness, 327.
Waterfalls, 110. In Bavians Kloof, ib.
Watt De, Mr. a farmer, 138.
Waxberry-bush, 340. Method of boil-
ing wax, 341.
Welgelegen farm, 174.
Whale, in Table-Bay, 304.
Wilberforce, William, Esq. 349.
Wilhelmina, a Caffre, her address, 68,
111.
Wild beasts, retreat from the dwellings
of man, 213.
Wild boars, 160, 170, 209.
Wild dogs, 87, 137, 141.
Williams, Mr. and Mrs. 201,
Wimmer, Mr. a missionary, 126.
Winterhoek's mountains, 189*
Witteboom, 35, 102, 331.
Wittedrift brook, 164.
Witte Revier, 204. Described, 209.
Visited by Hottentots, 232, 233.
Wolf-house, a trap, 227.
Wolfskloof, 342.
Wolves, 54, 87, 101, 137, 154, 215.
Woods, 125, 127, 151, 153, 192, 193,
195, 197,209,331.
YEAR, entrance into the new, 43^
Young, Captain, 302, 328.
ZAAYMAN, Mr. a farmer, 145, 150.
-Zaccheus, Deba, a Caffre, 317.
Zebra, or wild horse, 255.
Zebra sloop of war, passage offered in
the, 328, 345. Cargo of the, 352.
Zeekoegat farm, 130.
Zinzendorf, Count, life by Miller, 8.
Zitzikamma, 89.
Zondag, Mr. a farmer at Avantur, 245.
Zondags Revier, 199.
Zorn, , Esq. his house described,
36, 304.
Zuurberg, encampment on, 217, 231.
Zuurbrak, settlement of the Missionary
Society in London, 124. Described,
125.
Zwarteberg, Mountain, 56. Described,
74.
Zwart Revier, 144.
Zwarfzkops Revier, 198.
Zwellendam, 121, 259.
FINIS.
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